Canada Slim and the Universal Language

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Wednesday 14 December 2022

Go forth.“, the Prophet said.

Perform the march with bow and arrow.

Be in God’s protection and safety.

Receive these good tidings.

Of all the spirits you met in this assembly and whose hands you kissed, you are vouchsafed to visit their tombs.

You will be a world traveller and unique among men.

The well-protected kingdoms through which you pass, the fortresses and towns, the strange and wonderful moments, each land’s praiseworthy qualities and products, its food and drink, its latitude and longitude:

Record all of these and compose a wonderful work.

Make use of my weapon and become my son in this world and the next.

Do not abandon the path of truth.

Be free of envy and hatred.

Pay the due of bread and salt.

Be a faithful friend but no friend to the wicked.

Learn goodness from the good.

Evliya Çelebi, The Book of Travels

Sometimes a man just needs to be surrounded by beauty.

This is why it is nice to work in a school where half the staff and half of our students are female.

This is why it is nice to occasionally see the wife from time to time.

This is why, despite some standards of behaviour exhibited by the locals I could live without, I look forward to visiting Switzerland again at the beginning of next month.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Certainly the wife and I will do a spot of travelling – to Freiburg im Breisgau and Konstanz (Germany) and to Zürich (the New York of Switzerland) – but I am also looking forward to simply strolling upon country roads between the neighbouring village of Münsterlingen to the west of the hamlet (where our residence remains) and Altnau to the east.

Above: Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Rheintorturm (Rhine Gate Tower), Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Oberdorf (Upper Town), Altnau, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

I began, not so long ago, a travelogue of a journey from Landschlacht to Mürren, commencing with Landschlacht itself, for I seek to show my gentle readers that there is magic and depth in even the most mundane (at first glance) of ordinary communities – whether they be in Canada, Switzerland or Vietnam.

Above: Landschlacht (Münsterlingen), Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Mürren, Canton Bern, Switzerland

The first destination the traveller meets in leaving Landschlacht bound for Mürren via the scenic route is Altnau – “the next town over” as one might say in Canada.

Above: Beyond the bend of the highway, beneath the glory of the heavens, Altnau

Altnau is a town (and a municipality in the district of Kreuzlingen in the Canton of Thurgau in Switzerland.

Above: Coat of arms of Altnau

Above: Flag of Canton Thurgau

The Kirchdorf (church settlement) consists of the upper and lower villages and other settlements. 

Above: Swiss Reformed Church, Altnau

It is located on the old Romanshorn – Kreuzlingen Road near the southern shore of the Bodensee (Lake Constance) on the moraine of the former Rhine Glacier. 

Above: Harbour, Romanshorn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Kreuzlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Satellite image of the Bodensee (Lake Constance)

Above: Map of the Rhine Glacier

The actual centre of Altnau is around two kilometers from the shore of the Bodensee, at 471 metres above sea level. 

It borders on the municipalities of Güttingen, Langrickenbach and Münsterlingen. 

Above: Location of Altnau Municipality (in pink)

Altnau has a train station on the Kreuzlingen – Romanshorn railway (or to be precise, the Schaffhausen – Wil rail line).

Above: Altnau Station

Above: Schaffhausen, Canton Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Above: Wil, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

In 787 the village was first mentioned as Althinouva (Aldo’s land by the water).

In the 8th century, the Monastery of St. Gallen was made wealthy here. 

Above: Abbey Cathedral of St. Gallen, St. Gallen, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

In 1155, Emperor Frederick Barbarossa confirmed that the Cathedral in Konstanz owned the property rights to the Altnau court and church. 

Above: (seated) Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa (1122 – 1190)

Above: Konstanz Cathedral

The noble rights over the University of Konstanz lands here, which belonged to the Freiherren (free lords) von Altenklingen around 1300, passed to various Konstanz families in the Late Middle Ages (1378: family Schwarz / 1430: family Tettikofen / 1468 family Mangolt). 

Above: Logo of the University of Konstanz

From 1471 to 1798, Altnau was held by the city of Konstanz. 

Above: Coat of arms of the City of Konstanz

In 1454, Altnau was included in the Appenzeller Landrecht (law courts), but had to give these rights up after a complaint from the Cathedral chapter.

Above: Flag of Appenzell

The parish rights passed in 1347 from the Cathedral Provost to the Cathedral Dean. 

After the Reformation in 1528, the few Catholics that remained here were cared for from Konstanz, with the Altnau church shared between both Catholics and Protestants.

In 1810 the parity relationship was dissolved and two churches were built. 

Above: Martin Luther (1483 – 1546), pioneer of the Protestant Reformation

The rights of the village were first handed down in 1468. 

Above: Aerial view of Altnau (1924)

In the 19th century, farmers switched from three field grain production to livestock and dairy production.

Above: The three-field system of crop rotation

In 1880 a dairy company was established. 

The viticulture (wine industry), which had been in operation since the Middle Ages came to an end in 1912. 

Above: Altnau viticulture

Field fruit growing was documented in the 19th century:

After 1945, the high stems were replaced by extensive low stem cultures. 

Above: Altnau apple production

Like the Lake Road built around 1840, the Lake Rail Line opened in 1870 brought little upswing in the village because the station was too far away. 

All regional trains between Schaffhausen and Wil – via Kreuzlingen, Romanshorn and St.Gallen – stop at Altnau Station. 

Regional trains run every half hour.

Above: Two Thurbo GTW 2/6 crossing the bridge over the Rhine between Schaffhausen and Feuerthalen, Switzerland

Main road number 13 runs between the Town and the Lake, which leads from Schaffhausen via Kreuzlingen and on to Romanshorn and Rorschach.

There is a port, but no pier for scheduled boats on the Bodensee.

 

Above: Rorschach, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Until the middle of the 20th century, the village was heavily agricultural. 

Nevertheless, industry moved in. 

From 1870 to 1910, numerous Altnau residents worked as hand embroiderers, in 1882 and 1910 the Altwegg and Walser embroidery factories were established, and from 1883 to 1967 the Sallmann knitwear factory offered numerous jobs and employed 17 people in 1883, 60 in 1895 and 41 in 1923. 

The Setafil silk weaving mill, which opened in 1948, ceased production in 1974. 

Above: This 1881 painting (by Emil Rittmeyer) shows the embroidery world trade in the second half of the 19th century.

Left: Embroidery patterns, then factories, the locomotive used for transporting the goods, the installation of a telegraph line.

On the right side, the embroidery is presented to the representatives of all continents.

In 1977, a mechanical engineering company set up in the boatyard built in 1964. 

Above: Altnau Boatyard

In 2016, Altnau offered work to 577 people (converted to full-time positions). 

Of these, 12.9% worked in agriculture and forestry, 27.1% in industry, commerce and construction and 59.9% in the service sector. 

Worth mentioning are:

  • the Reformed Church
  • the Catholic Church 
  • the Apfelweg (Apple Trail), the first fruit nature trail in Switzerland, is a nine-kilometre-long circular route that leads through the local orchards and explains the path of the apple from blossom to fruit on 16 boards. 
  • the ship jetty, which has existed since 2010 and is 270 meters long due to the wide shallow water zone – making it the longest jetty on the Bodensee – it is nicknamed the Bodensee Eiffel Tower, because of its length

Above: Altnau Jetty

Above: Tour Eiffel, Paris, France

The Thurgau village of Altnau is surrounded by gently rolling apple orchards.

Altnau has been breeding, cultivating and processing Jonagold, Gala or Braeburn for generations. 

Above: Gala apples

Above: Braeburn apple

Visitors can find out why apples thrive particularly well here at the information boards along the Altnau Apple Trail. 

The revised adventure trail extends the previous fruit trail and can be explored on foot, by bike or in a horse-drawn carriage. 

Game tips and hands-on activities along the routes are aimed specifically at families with children. 

The tour is particularly beautiful during the apple blossom season in spring or harvest time in autumn.

The starting point of the Apple Trail is at the foot of Altnau, 500 meters from the train station. 

The Altnauer Apfelweg consists of three routes that can be combined to form circular routes of five, six or seven kilometres. 

There is an apple mascot for every path:

East of Altnau, the apple path meanders through the apple orchards beneath the bright red “Lisi” apple. 

The 14 stations tell exciting things about fruit growing and the work of the fruit growers all year round. 

The yellow route with the mascot “Fredi” leads through the middle of the village and presents different types of apples and pears. 

With riddles, recipes and anecdotes, every walk flies by. 

On the green “Emma” route west of Altnau, apple fans meet wild and honey bees and learn a lot about the Thurgau fruit region and the history and cultivation of the crunchy fruit. 

On the red and green routes, Lisi and Emma invite the children balancing on tree trunks, looking for fruit pairs or exploring the earth. 

Fredi inspires on the yellow route with variety information, puzzles and fun. 

The themed trail is varied and offers the best conditions for a trip with the whole family.

Apple path Lisi: The red route, four kilometers long, takes about two hours on foot or one hour by bike. It runs east of Altnau, the main focus is the work of the fruit growers.

Apple path Emma: The green, three-kilometre route takes about an hour and a half on foot and 40 minutes by bike. To the west of the village, she reveals interesting facts about fruit growing, the apple village of Altnau and Thurgau.

Apple path Fredi: The yellow route leads right through the village. Pedestrians need about an hour for the two kilometers. The path is not suitable for cyclists.

Farm shops, restaurants and pubs in and around Altnau offer sweet cider, apple rings and other delicious fruit creations. 

If you run out of breath on the way, you can rest on the numerous benches, rest areas and picnic areas along the route – mostly in front of a wonderful panorama of the Bodensee. 

A tip is the Feierlenhof in Altnau, where the Barth family has been welcoming guests to their own farm for several generations. 

A petting zoo delights children and animal lovers alike.

Above: Feierlenhof, Altnau

The Bodensee has always been considered a transport axis for a wide variety of goods, which were transported by barge. 

Since Eastern Switzerland mainly traded in textiles, it was dependent on a functioning trade in food stuffs, mainly grain. 

Due to the fluctuating water level between summer and winter, a summer and a winter landing site had to be built. 

A pier was built near today’s Altnau, the “Stelli“. 

With the onset of industrialization, ship trade became less relevant as the railroad was faster and easier. 

This also had an effect on the shipping trade on the Bodensee.

Winter ports were no longer used by ships, which is why the Stelli was destroyed by the water over time and sank.

Above: Construction of the Altnau Jetty

The Stelli, which can still be seen with the naked eye today, was examined in 2012 by a diving team from the Thurgau Archaeology Office, who measured the remains, had these results recorded and recovered samples for dating tree rings. 

The salvage showed that the Stelli was an L-shape with two legs, each 10 and 25 meters long. 

It consisted of spruce poles, which were fastened with the tops of the bottom of the lake.

Crosspieces and quarry stones were filled in between the posts.

Rorschach sandstone slabs were placed on top.

It is assumed that the origin of the Stelli goes back to the 17th century. 

The shore of the Municipality of Altnau stretches along the Obersee (upper part of the Bodensee) from northwest to southeast. 

The Altnauer Steg (jetty) is at a right angle to this, so it points to the northeast. 

By raising the ridge of the Lake, Altnau Harbour area is covered to the south and west.

Above: Altnau Jetty

The distance to the next town bordering the lake in the northwest, Kreuzlingen, is around 7.5 kilometers and to the next in the southeast, Romanshorn, around 10 kilometers. 

At least six kilometers must be covered to cross the Lake to Hagnau on the German side of the Bodensee.

Above: Hagnau am Bodensee, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

In contrast to other Swiss inland lakes, the Bodensee does not have a uniform shipping company, but rather several different shipping companies. 

This is due to the location of the Bodensee, because this (specifically the Obersee) is shared by the three countries Germany (Deutschland), Switzerland (Schweiz) and Austria (Österreich).

Above: Map of the Bodensee (Lake Constance)

During the shipping season, the Altnauer Jetty is used by the Romanshorn – Immenstaad – Hagnau – Altnau – Güttingen route.

Above: Immenstaad am Bodensee, Baden-Württemberg, Germany (in winter)

Above: Güttingen Castle, Güttingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

For residents of the municipality of Altnau and the surrounding area as well as for tourists, the footbridge serves as a good leisure offer. 

Provided with a bathing platform at the jetty, another one to the east and several descent possibilities, swimming in the Lake is made possible in the summer season. 

In the event of an emergency, rescue equipment for drowning people is distributed on the railing.

In addition, hobby anglers do not want to fish at the jetty.

Above: The way to Hagnau, Altnau Jetty

As early as 1994, a working group from the municipality of Altnau expressed the desire for a new shipping pier. 

The purpose behind this was that the attractiveness of the community should be promoted. 

In Altnau there is a very large campground, which is particularly busy in the height of summer. 

In this season many people in Altnau go to the Lake to swim. 

Altogether there are up to 2,000 people in the vicinity of the port during the warmest time of the year.

A positive factor was that, according to a 2007 study for additional shipping piers on the Bodensee, Altnau was the location between Kreuzlingen and Horn that would have the lowest environmental impact. 

Shipping also benefited from the immediate increase in tourist attractiveness. 

Above: Horn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

At Altnau Harbour in the direction of the middle of the Lake there is a flat shore, which made the construction of such a long jetty necessary. 

The ground was measured and evaluated by means of probing in 2007. 

The Dr. Vollenweider organization divides the ground into three stratified phases:

  • Young lake deposits: Consisting of slightly clay, relatively fine sandy silt loosely layered with a high water concentration. The layer height is between two and three meters on the bank, further away it increases up to ten meters.
  • Postglacial lake deposits: Consisting of strong clay silts with little fine sand soft to slightly resistant. The layer height is about two meters at the bank and increases up to six meters at a greater distance.
  • Moraine: Consisting of little clay, very silty-fine sand with a high proportion of gravel and stones

Above: Harbour, Altnau

The walkable area of ​​the jetty is 398 meters above sea level and therefore around two meters higher than the summer water level. 

A height of 15 centimeters of concrete can be seen on the side.

The maximum height is 35 centimeters. 

The bridge is founded with hollow concrete piles, each with a diameter of 35 centimetres. 

These stand in pairs 12 meters apart. 

While the western stake is driven vertically into the ground, the eastern stake has a 5º inclination.

The moraine, which is not too deep, is responsible for holding and fixing these.

Barriers are installed on both sides along the jetty. 

The two railings vary from each other. 

The western railing is half solid / half transparent, with a guided chrome steel handrail. 

On the one hand, this heavily protected site is intended to provide security.

On the other hand, it is to prevent disturbances to aquatic animals.

The eastern side, on the other hand, is supported only by longitudinal wire cables – no handrail. 

There is a gap in the area of ​​the bathing platform so that access to it is freely possible.

Above: Altnau Jetty

Canton Thurgau Facts:

  • 900 km of marked cycle paths
  • 1,000 km of hiking trails
  • 150 km of inline skating routes
  • 72 km of shoreline on Lake Constance
  • 200 kinds of apples
  • 210,000 standard apple trees
  • 1,600 hectares of orchards

Romping about in flowering meadows, playing knights and experiencing unforgettable farm adventures:

In Thurgau, even young visitors never get bored. 

The idyllic surroundings and a wide range of leisure activities ensure lots of holiday fun. 

With over 72 kilometers of shoreline, Thurgau also has the longest bathing beach on the Bodensee

The landscape is green and flat everywhere – ideal for bike tours with the family.

When swimming, hiking or cycling, holiday guests can feel nature up close. 

The southern part of the Bodensee stretches out in lush greenery:

Meadow orchards let the petals dance in spring.

In autumn the fruit falls heavily onto the grass.

Anyone who drives further up into the hills will experience new perspectives and very special adventures. 

The ancient cultural landscape also harbors a wealth of treasures:

From pile dwellings to Roman forts, medieval chapels and monasteries to imperial parks and gardens.

First-class wines from local winegrowers, fresh fish from the Bodensee and a multitude of other culinary specialties spoil the palate in Thurgau. 

Whether gourmet restaurant, country inn or rustic Buure-Beiz – Thurgau makes connoisseurs’ hearts beat faster. 

Excellent wines also thrive on the vineyard slopes along the Untersee (Lower Lake), the Rhine and also on sunny Ottenberg near Weinfelden. 

The grape variety Müller Thurgau, which is also called Riesling Sylvaner in this country, has its origins in Thurgau.

Let us raise a glass in memory of one of Altnau’s own, Hans Baumgartner.

Hans Baumgartner (1911 – 1996) was a Swiss photographer and teacher.

Above: Hans Baumgartner

Hans Baumgartner was born in Altnau. 

He trained as a teacher at the Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen (teacher training college) and at the University of Zürich.

Above: Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen buildings constructed in the 1970s

Above: Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen in the former Kreuzlingen Monastery

Above: Logo of the University of Zürich

From 1937 until his retirement he worked as a teacher, until 1962 in Steckborn, later in Frauenfeld.

Above: Steckborn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Frauenfeld, capital of Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Baumgartner’s first photographs were taken in 1929.

Above: Zürich (1936), Hans Baumgartner photo

The journalist Arnold Kübler discovered him in the early 1930s. 

Above: Arnold Kübler

(Arnold Kübler (1890 – 1983) was a Swiss writer, draftsman and journalist. 

He founded the cultural magazine Du (you) in 1941.

Arnold Kübler grew up as the son of an innkeeper and farmer in Wiesendangen.

 

Above: Wiesendangen, Canton Zürich, Switzerland (1934)

He broke off his geology studies and training as a sculptor. 

After World War I, he worked as an actor in Dresden and Berlin. 

He had to give up this career in 1926 after an operation due to scars on his face. 

In 1927, he married Alva Jessen (1887 – 1965). 

The couple had three children: Jörn Kübler (1922 – 1975), Olaf Kübler (1924 – 1987) and Ursula Kübler (1928 – 2010). 

Above: Images of Dresden, Sachsen, Germany

Above: Berlin, Germany

Kübler was able to celebrate greater success with his literary and journalistic work. 

He was appointed editor-in-chief of the Zürcher Illustrierte (Zurich Illustrated) in 1929, which under his lead developed into a respected literary and photographic magazine.

He was convinced that a photograph can also be a vehicle of a message. 

He worked with prominent photographers Paul Senn and Gotthard Schuh among others.)

Above: Paul Senn

(Paul Senn (1901 – 1953) was a Swiss photographer.

After attending school in the city of Bern, Senn learned the trade of advertising draftsman and re-toucher around 1917. 

Above: Bern, Switzerland

After completing his education, he worked in various European cities and from 1922 as a graphic artist in Lyon, France. 

Above: Images of Lyon, France

In 1924, he became picture editor at the Basler Nachrichten (Basel News), where his first photos appeared. 

In 1927 and 1928 he stayed in Milan, Genoa, Germany, Belgium, France and Barcelona. 

Above: Images of Milano (Milan), Italy

Above: Piazza de Ferrari, Genova (Genoa), Italy

Above: Flag of Germany

Above: Flag of Belgium

Above: Flag of France

Above: Images of Barcelona, Spain

After these trips he opened his own graphics and advertising studio in Bern. 

In the 1930s, Senn worked as a photo reporter for the Zürcher Illustrierte and the Berner Illustrierte.

Senn traveled to France, Italy, Spain and the Balkans. 

Above: Flag of Italy

Above: Flag of Spain

Above: Map of the Balkan Peninsula

In 1937, Senn accompanied an aid convoy from the Swiss Aid Committee for the Children of Spain to the war zone of the Spanish Civil War and reported on it in a special issue of the Zürcher Illustrierte

Above: Images of the Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939)

In 1939, he travelled to the US.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

During the Second World War, Senn did active service as an army photographer in the Heer und Haus (Army and Home) division.)

Above: Bronze statue “Morning readiness“, erected in 1941 to celebrate the 650th anniversary of the Swiss Confederation in the park of the Federal Archives in Schwyz (Switzerland)

(In order to strengthen the spirit of the troops, Swiss Army General Henri Guisan ordered the formation of the Army and Home section, a kind of psychological service.

This had the task of maintaining the military will of the troops through lectures and entertainment, even during long military service. 

In the army order of 3 November 1939, he wrote: 

It is absolutely necessary that the troops, despite long service and regardless of the separation of family and work, maintain an elevated state of mind. 

Free from nagging doubts and discouragements, the soldier should maintain equanimity and confidence.

With the formula “Think Swiss and act Swiss”, the “civilian reconnaissance service expanded and launched a campaign to educate the civilian population. 

For this purpose, cadres were recruited from around news agencies and resistance organizations.

Above: Henri Guisan (1874 – 1960)

Army and Home tried to strengthen the will to resist in the population and to supplement the role of the war-censored press. 

Firstly, it was about the “communication of facts” from which the citizen should form his own opinion.

Secondly, the “communication of bases for the discussion” as a means of forming opinions in a democracy, in contrast to propaganda, agitation and terror, which are the methods used by totalitarian states to subdue their subjects.

It organized around 3,000 two-day educational courses, as well as lectures, performances, sporting events and film and radio screenings. 

The 200 voluntary speakers came from all political camps, regions and professions. 

For the lecturing activity of the commanders, Army and Home issued military service letters, which not only called for resistance against the totalitarian threat, but also took a stand for the old custom of granting asylum (December 1942) or against anti-Semitism (May 1943). 

More than 7,000 shop stewards recruited in the lectures distributed the documentation published by the Army and Home in their sphere of activity and gave regular feedback on the respective mood in the population.

In the army order of November 1939, Guisan also gave didactic instructions for Army and Home officers and the unit commanders:

I consider it essential that there is a clear separation between serious lectures, which require constant attention, and purely entertaining events. 

The former belong in working hours, the others in leisure time. 

Both are important, sometimes to teach, sometimes to amuse. 

Teaching does not mean imposing any theories, but rather stimulating thoughts and challenging reflections. 

It is a question of showing the team, above all using concrete examples, the tangible and spiritual reality of Switzerland, its honorable past, the military traditions, honoring our heroes, artists, scientists, pointing out the high level of culture that it has achieved and on to indicate their destiny in this world.

For the historian Peter Dürrenmatt and other contemporary observers, between 1941 and 1945, Army and Home made a decisive contribution to maintaining and strengthening intellectual resilience: 

One can say that never before in the history of the Confederation has there been a movement of anything remotely similar in creative unity existed, like those that formed around the Army’s reconnaissance service, around the idea of ​​’Army and Home’.)

Above: Peter Dürrenmatt (1904 – 1989)

(After the Zürcher Illustrierte was forced to cease publication in 1941, Senn worked for the Schweizer Illustrierte (Switzerland Illustrated) and for Sie + Er (She and He). 

From 1942 to 1944, Senn travelled to southern France several times and reported on the activities of Swiss relief organizations and the construction work in Lyon. 

Above: Lyon, France

After the end of the war in 1945, Paul Senn travelled to the European war zones on behalf of the Swiss Red Cross and the Swiss Donation to War Victims, taking photographs in France and Germany.

Above: Logo of the Swiss Donation

In 1946, Senn stayed in the US for Schweizer Illustrierte, visiting New York and the Swiss Colonies. 

Above: Harlem, New York City, New York, USA (1946) – Paul Senn photograph

(Most immigration from Switzerland took place mainly in the second half of the 19th century. 

The reasons for this were mostly economic in nature, Switzerland was considered one of the poorest countries in Europe at the time.

By 1820, around 25,000 Swiss had immigrated, mainly with the destination of Pennsylvania and the Carolinas. 

Above: Swiss migrants in the US (1946), Paul Senn photograph

In general, the target in the 19th century was the Midwest and the Pacific coast. 

The Italian-speaking Swiss preferred California. 

Some Swiss settlements were established, such as New Glarus (Wisconsin), Gruetli-Laager (Tennessee) and New Bern (North Carolina)(“the birthplace of Pepsi“). )

Above: Flag throwing and Alphorn blowing, New Glarus, Wisconsin, USA

Above: Historical marker, Gruetli-Laager, Tennessee, USA

Above: City Hall, New Bern, North Carolina, USA

Above: Classroom scene, New Bern

In 1947, Senn went to Finland and Germany at the invitation of the Swiss Donation and documented the reconstruction. 

Above: Flag of Finland

In 1950, trips to Germany, France, Italy and England followed. 

Above: Flag of England

In 1951, he founded the College of Swiss Photographers with Werner Bischof, Gotthard Schuh and Jakob Tuggener. 

In 1952 he became a member of the Schweizerischer Werkbund (SWB) (Swiss Work Association) (an association of artists, cultural mediators and other specialists in the field of design).

On 25 April 1953, Senn died of cancer in the Zieglerspital in Bern.)

Above: Zieglerspital (1868 – 2015), Bern, Switzerland

(Gotthard Schuh (1897 – 1969) was a Swiss photographer, painter and graphic artist.

Above: Gotthard Schuh

Gotthard Schuh was born in Berlin to Swiss parents. 

His father was the engineer Christian Heinrich Schuh. 

In 1902 the family moved to Aarau, where he attended school.

Above: Aarau, Canton Aargau, Switzerland

From 1914, he began to paint. 

In 1916, he graduated from the trade school (now the site of the Basel Trade Museum) in Basel. 

Above: Gewerbemuseum, Basel, Switzerland

In 1917, Schuh was drafted as a soldier for border service until the end of the First World War.

Above: Kilometre Zero -where the Swiss border met the Western Front, World War I (1914 – 1918)

From 1919, he lived as a painter in Basel and Geneva. 

Above: Basel, Switzerland

Above: Genève (Geneva), Switzerland

After a long trip to Italy in 1920, he settled in Munich as a painter. 

Above: München (Munich), Bayern (Bavaria), Germany

In 1926, he returned to Switzerland and became manager of a photo shop.

After his marriage in 1927 he moved to Zürich, where he began to take photographs. 

Various exhibitions as a painter followed from 1928 to 1931, during which time he joined the Basel artist group Rot-Blau (red-blue). 

Above: Albert Müller (1897 – 1926)(Rot-Blau), Vineyards in Ticino (1925)

In 1931 his first photos were published in the Zürcher Illustrierte.

 

Above: Gotthard Schuh photograph of Swiss author Friedrich Glauser (1896 – 1938), Zürcher Illustrierte, (3 December 1937)

A picture exhibition followed in Paris in 1932, where he met Pablo Picasso, Fernand Léger and Georges Braque.

Above: Spanish artist Pablo Picasso (1881 – 1973)

Above: French artist Fernand Léger (1881 – 1955)

Above: French artist Georges Braque (1882 – 1963)

From 1933 to 1939, Schuh worked as a freelance photojournalist for the Zürcher Illustrierte, Berliner Illustriete (1892 – 1945), Paris Match and Life (1883 – 2000). 

His reports took him all over Europe and to Indonesia. 

Above: Flag of the European Union

Above: Flag of Indonesia

From 1941 to 1960 he was picture editor at the Neue Züricher Zeitung (NZZ). 

From this period a significant part of his own photographic work illustrated books, of which the most successful was Inseln der Götter (Island of the Gods) published in 1941, the result of his almost 11-month journey through Singapore, Java, Sumatra and Bali undertaken just before the war. 

It was a mixture of reportage and self-reflection, with a poetic quality that, though individual images may be read either way, Schuh sometimes valued over documentary authenticity:

Everyone just depicts what he sees.

Everyone just sees what corresponds to his being.

In 1951, he founded the College of Swiss Photographers together with Werner Bischof, Paul Senn and Jakob Tuggener.

After 1960, Schuh turned to painting again. 

Schuh died in Küsnacht by the Zürchersee (Lake Zurich) in 1969.)

Above: Küsnacht, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

(Werner Bischof (1916 – 1954) was a Swiss photographer and one of the most famous photojournalists of the 20th century.

Above: Werner Bischof

Bischof, son of a merchant, grew up first in Zürich and Kilchberg (Canton Zürich) in Switzerland, but spent his school days in Waldshut (Germany). 

Above: Kilchberg, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Kaiserstrasse (Emperor Street), Waldshut, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

His father had been manager of a branch of a Zürich pharmaceutical factory there since 1922. 

This time was overshadowed by the early death of his mother. 

He attended teachers’ college in Schiers (Canton Graubünden) to become a drawing and physical education teacher. 

Above: Evangelische Mittelschule (EMS), Schiers, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

At the age of 16, Bischof switched to studying at the Zürich School of Applied Arts. 

In 1936, he received his diploma with distinction as a photographer and, after basic training with the Swiss Army, opened in Zürich a studio for fashion and advertising photography. 

After interludes as an employee at a Zurich publishing house, a freelance artist for the Swiss National Exhibition in 1939 and a graphic designer in Paris, he was drafted into military service in Switzerland in 1939. 

In short phases between military deployments, he devoted himself to photographing natural motifs.

In 1942, Bischof published his first photos in the then new monthly magazine Du.

In autumn 1945, he traveled to southern Germany, France and the Netherlands.

He was deeply moved by the hardship in the regions badly affected by the Second World War. 

On behalf of the Swiss Donation he reported on the victims of war-destroyed Europe.

Above: Boy drawing in the ruins, Freiburg im Breisgau, Werner Bischof photographer

In 1948, Bischof represented Time magazine at the St. Moritz Winter Olympics. 

In 1949, his documentary photographs were published in Life magazine.

Bischof joined the newly formed photographers’ cooperative Magnum Photos. 

From 1951, he traveled to the Middle East (famine in Bihar, India) and the Far East (Japan and Korea). 

Above: Seal of the Indian state of Bihar

Above: Flag of Japan

Above: Flag of South Korea

He was a war correspondent for Paris Match magazine during the Indochina War (1946 – 1954). 

Above: French Foreign Legionnaires with a suspected Viet Minh supporter

In 1953, he began a journey through the American continent that had been planned for a long time, visiting and photographing Mexico and Panama and Peru.

Above: Flag of Mexico

Above: Flag of Panama

Above: Flag of Peru

The following year, on 16 May 1954, his SUV crashed into a Peruvian river at Pena de Aguila Andes down a slope.

Bischof was killed.

Above: Pena de Aguila, Peru

In his relatively short life, Werner Bischof was highly productive and dedicated. 

He created a work of 60,000 photographs. 

With his fascinating compositions of light and shadow, Bischof made a name for himself early on as a studio and advertising photographer. 

But when he was able to travel through devastated Europe after the end of the Second World War, his pictures described the suffering and destructiveness of the war with oppressive urgency. 

Above: Two girls inside a church destroyed by the war. Friedrichshafen (Germany). 1945, Werner Bischof photograph

Above: A man looking at the city in ruins. Frankfurt (Germany). 1946 – Werner Bischof photograph

Above: A man walking through the destroyed city searching for food in Freiburg im Breisgau (Germany). 1945 – Werner Bischof photograph

His motto now became:

It is not important to make an art out of photography as in the old sense, but rather the deep social responsibility of the photographer, who does a job with the given elementary photographic means that cannot be done with other means would be able to afford. 

This work must become the unadulterated document of temporal reality.

Above: A view of the Thames River from Westminster Abbey in London. 1950 – Werner Bischof photograph

With this in mind, Bischof created images that show bitter poverty and deep suffering, but are also documents of the inner strength and willpower of the people depicted. 

The superficiality and sensationalism of the editorial business repelled him, but he was mostly sent to crisis areas. 

Despite the external circumstances, the love for people and the love for the cause are always visible in Bischof’s photographs.

Aesthetic feeling, elementary formative power and human commitment combined with him to an inner unity.

One of his most famous pictures shows a boy playing the flute walking along a precipice. 

Bischof took the picture in Peru in 1954. 

The NZZ called the picture “an icon of photojournalism“. 

Werner Bischof was a photographer personality who, after the Second World War, photographed the trouble spots of this world with the eye of a poet and the awareness of a politician.”)

Showing the shadows of poverty and despair, tempered with his desire to travel the world, Bischof conveyed the beauty of nature and humanity.

I felt compelled to venture forth and explore the true face of the world.

Leading a satisfying of plenty has blinded many of us to the immense hardships beyond our borders.

Above: A pleasant sleep – Werner Bischof photograph

(Jakob Tuggener (1904 – 1988) was a Swiss photographer.

Above: Jakob Tuggener?

Tuggener did an apprenticeship as a mechanical draftsman in Zurich. 

In 1930 – 1931 he studied graphics, typography, drawing, window dressing and film at the Reimann School in Berlin (then the largest private arts and crafts school in Germany). 

His work at that time was published in the school magazine Farb und Form (Colour and Form). 

Above: Reimann Art School (1902 – 1940), Berlin, Germany

After his return to Switzerland he worked as an industrial photographer. 

In 1934, Tuggener bought a Leica camera and took his first photographs at the Grand Bal Russe (Russian ball) in Zürich. 

The subject of dance balls would not let him go for two decades. 

The glories of nightlife enchanted him with their alabaster light illuminating a fairy tale of women and flowing silk.

Above: ACS Ball Grand Hotel Dolder, 1948 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

He photographed balls in Zürich’s Grand Hotel Dolder and the Hotel Baur au Lac, St. Moritz’s Palace Hotel, and the Vienna (Wien) Opera Ball. 

Above: Dolder Grand Hotel, Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Hotel Baur au Lac, Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Palace Hotel, St. Moritz, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

Above: Vienna State Opera, Wien (Vienna), Austria

He also devoted himself to topics such as country life and technology.

Above: Untitled, Oeschgen, Canton Aargau, Switzerland, 1942 Jakob Tuggener photograph

Above: Plant entrance, Oerlikon Machine Factory, Canton Zürich, Switzerland, 1934 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

In 1943, Tuggener made his breakthrough into avant-garde Swiss photography with his book Factory: a photographic essay on the relationship between man and machine

Above: Grande Dixence power station, Canton Valais, Switzerland, 1942 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

Above: Barrage de la Grande Dixence, Lac des Dix reservoir, Canton Valais, Switzerland

After the Second World War, his pictures were shown in the New York Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) and published in the magazines Leica-Foto and Du, among others. 

Above: Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York City, New York, USA

In 1949, the new editor of Camera magazine, Walter Laubli (1902 – 1991), published a substantial portfolio of Jakob Tuggener’s pictures made at upper-class entertainments and in factories, a world familiar to him from his early apprenticeship as a technical draftsman in Zürich, as well as a series of stills from his silent films, with an introduction by Hans Kasser (1907 – 1978), himself a photographer and member of the Werkbund.

Alongside Tuggener’s work, Camera presented the 25-year-old Robert Frank, who had just returned to his native Switzerland  after two years abroad, with pages including some of his first pictures from New York.

The magazine promoted the two as representatives of the ‘new photography’ of Switzerland.

Above: Cover of the 1st issue of Camera magazine, July 1922

Tuggener was a role model for Frank, first mentioned to him by his boss and mentor, Zurich commercial photographer Michael Wolgensinger (1913–1990).

Tuggener, as a serious artist who had left the commercial world behind, was the “one Frank really did love, from among all Swiss photographers”. 

Fabrik, as a photo book, was a model for Frank’s Les Américains (1958).

A first major exhibition of Tuggener’s “Ball Nights” pictures took place in Munich in 1969. 

In 1951, Tuggener founded the College of Swiss Photographers with Werner Bischof, Gotthard Schuh and Paul Senn.

Above: Ball Nights photograph, Jakob Tuggener

The “pictorial poet” Tuggener is regarded as a representative of social documentary photography, one of the most important areas of photographic art. 

For Tuggener, people, truth and the concern for social justice were at the centre of his work. 

His work is characterized by the interplay of the artistic media of painting, photography and film with the three main themes of work in the factory, life in the country, and glamorous balls in magnificent hotels. 

He created expressive photography and knew how to assemble radical sections and dynamic perspectives into film-like series of images. 

As with a moving camera, he captured the “pulse of life” and condensed fleeting moments into a poetic overall view.

In 1950, Tuggener wrote: 

The photographer as an expressionist does not exist in the commercial register. 

He is the freest and free. 

Detached from all purpose, he only photographs the pleasure of his experience.

Above: Work in the boiler (1935), Jakob Tuggener photograph

His archive is in the Fotomuseum in Winterthur.)

Above: Fotomuseum, Winterthur, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

(Robert Frank (1924 – 2019) was a Swiss photographer and documentary filmmaker, who became an American bi-national.

Above: Robert Frank

His most notable work, the 1958 book titled The Americans, earned Frank comparisons to a modern-day Alexis de Tocqueville (1805 – 1889) for his fresh and nuanced outsider’s view of American society.

Above: French political philosopher Alexis de Tocqueville

Critic Sean O’Hagan, writing in The Guardian in 2014, said The Americans

“‘The Americanschanged the nature of photography, what it could say and how it could say it.

It remains perhaps the most influential photography book of the 20th century.

Above: Sean O’Hagan

Frank later expanded into film and video and experimented with manipulating photographs and photomontage.

Above: Robert Frank, “Couple/Paris” 1952

Frank was born in Zürich, Switzerland, the son of Rosa (Zucker) and Hermann Frank.

His family was Jewish.

Robert states in Gerald Fox’s 2004 documentary Leaving Home, Coming Home that his mother, Rosa (other sources state her name as Regina), had a Swiss passport, while his father, Hermann originating from Frankfurt, Germany had become stateless after losing his German citizenship as a Jew.

They had to apply for the Swiss citizenship of Robert and his older brother, Manfred.

Though Frank and his family remained safe in Switzerland during World War II, the threat of Nazism nonetheless affected his understanding of oppression.

Above: Flag of the National Socialist Party (1920 – 1945)

He turned to photography, in part as a means to escape the confines of his business-oriented family and home, and trained under a few photographers and graphic designers before he created his first hand-made book of photographs, 40 Fotos, in 1946. 

Frank emigrated to the US in 1947.

He secured a job in New York City as a fashion photographer for Harper’s Bazaar.

In 1949, the new editor of Camera magazine, Walter Laubli, published a substantial portfolio of Jakob Tuggener  pictures made at upper-class entertainments and in factories, alongside the work of the 25 year-old Frank who had just returned to his native Switzerland after two years abroad, with pages including some of his first pictures from New York.

The magazine promoted the two as representatives of the ‘new photography‘ of Switzerland.

Tuggener was a role model for the younger artist, first mentioned to him by Frank’s boss and mentor, Zürich commercial photographer Michael Wolgensinger (1913 – 1990) who understood that Frank was unsuited to the more mercenary application of the medium.

Tuggener, as a serious artist, had left the commercial world behind.

Above: Michael Wolgensinger

Frank soon left to travel in South America and Europe.

He created another handmade book of photographs that he shot in Peru, and returned to the US in 1950.

That year was momentous for Frank:

He participated in the group show 51 American Photographers at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA).

He married fellow artist Mary Lockspeiser, with whom he had two children, Andrea and Pablo.

Though he was initially optimistic about US society and culture, Frank’s perspective quickly changed as he confronted the fast pace of American life and what he saw as an overemphasis on money.

He now saw America as an often bleak and lonely place, a perspective that became evident in his later photography.

Frank’s own dissatisfaction with the control that editors exercised over his work also undoubtedly colored his experience.

Above: Robert Frank, “Trolley —New Orleans”, 1955

He continued to travel, moving his family briefly to Paris. 

Above: Robert Frank, “Tulip/Paris” 1950

In 1953, he returned to New York and continued to work as a freelance photojournalist for magazines, including McCall’s, Vogue and Fortune.

Associating with other contemporary photographers, he helped form the New York School of Photographers during the 1940s and 1950s.

In 1955, Frank achieved further recognition with the inclusion of seven of his photographs (many more than most other contributors) in the world-touring MoMA exhibition The Family of Man that was to be seen by 9 million visitors and with a popular catalogue that is still in print.

Frank’s contributions had been:

  • in Spain of a woman kissing her swaddled babe-in-arms
  • of a bowed old woman in Peru
  • a rheumy-eyed miner in Wales
  • others in England and the US, including two (one atypically soft-focus) of his wife in pregnancy; and one (later to be included in The Americans) of six laughing women in the window of the White Tower Hamburger Stand on Fourteenth Street, New York City.

Inspired by fellow Swiss Jakob Tuggener’s 1943 filmic book Fabrik, Bill Brandt’s The English at Home (1936) and Walker Evans’ American Photographs (1938), Frank secured a Guggenheim Fellowship in 1955 to travel across the United States and photograph all strata of its society.

Cities he visited included: 

  • Detroit, Michigan
  • Dearborn, Michigan  
  • Savannah, Georgia
  • Miami Beach, Florida
  • St. Petersburg, Florida  
  • New Orleans, Louisiana 
  • Houston, Texas 
  • Los Angeles, California 
  • Reno, Nevada
  • Salt Lake City, Utah
  • Butte, Montana
  • Chicago, Illinois.

Above: Detroit, Michigan, USA

Above: Dearborn, Michigan, USA

Above: Savannah, Georgia, USA

Above: Miami Beach, Florida, USA

Above: St. Petersburg, Florida, USA

Above: New Orleans, Louisiana, USA

Above: Houston, Texas, USA

Above: Los Angeles, California, USA

Above: Reno, Nevada, USA

Above: Images of Salt Lake City, Utah, USA

Above: Images of Butte, Montana, USA

Above: Chicago, Illinois, USA

He took his family along with him for part of his series of road trips over the next two years, during which time he took 28,000 shots.

83 of these were selected by him for publication in The Americans.

Frank’s journey was not without incident.

He later recalled the anti-Semitism to which he was subject in a small Arkansas town.

I remember the policeman took me into the police station.

He sat there and put his feet on the table.

It came out that I was Jewish because I had a letter from the Guggenheim Foundation.

They really were primitive.

He was told by the sheriff:

Well, we have to get somebody who speaks Yiddish.”

They wanted to make a thing out of it.

It was the only time it happened on the trip.

They put me in jail.

It was scary.

Nobody knew where I was.

Above: State flag of Arkansas

Elsewhere in the South, he was told by a sheriff that he had “an hour to leave town“.

Those incidents may have contributed to the dark view of America found in the work.

Above: The states in dark red compose the Deep South today.

Adjoining areas of Texas and North Florida are also considered part of this subregion.

Shortly after returning to New York in 1957, Frank met Beat writer Jack Kerouac “at a New York party where poets and Beatniks were,” and showed him the photographs from his travels.

However, according to Joyce Johnson, Kerouac’s lover at the time, she met Frank while waiting for Kerouac to emerge from a conference with his editors, at Viking Press, looked at Frank’s portfolio, and introduced them to each other. 

Kerouac immediately told Frank:

Sure I can write something about these pictures.

He eventually contributed the introduction to the US edition of The Americans.

Above: Jack Kerouac (1922 – 1969)

Frank also became lifelong friends with Beat poet Allen Ginsberg.

Above: Allen Ginsberg (1926 – 1997)

Frank was one of the main visual artists to document the Beat subculture, who felt an affinity with Frank’s interest in documenting the tensions between the optimism of the 1950s and the realities of class and racial differences.

The irony that Frank found in the gloss of American culture and wealth over this tension gave his photographs a clear contrast to those of most contemporary American photojournalists, as did his use of unusual focus, low lighting and cropping that deviated from accepted photographic techniques.

This divergence from contemporary photographic standards gave Frank difficulty at first in securing an American publisher. 

Les Américains was first published in 1958 by Robert Delpire in Paris, as part of its Encyclopédie Essentielle series, with texts by Simone de Beauvoir, Erskine Caldwell, William Faulkner, Henry Miller and John Steinbeck that Delpire positioned opposite Frank’s photographs. 

Above: French writer Simone de Beauvoir (1908 – 1986)

Above: American writer Erskine Caldwell (1903 – 1987)

Above: American writer William Faulkner (1897 – 1962)

Above: American writer Henry Miller (1891 – 1980)

Above: American writer John Steinbeck (1902 – 1968)

It was finally published in 1959 in the US, without the texts, by Grove Press, where it initially received substantial criticism. 

Above: Logo of Grove Press

Popular Photography derided his images as “meaningless blur, grain, muddy exposures, drunken horizons and general sloppiness“.

Though sales were also poor at first, the fact that the introduction was by the popular Kerouac helped it reach a larger audience.

Over time and through its inspiration of later artists, The Americans became a seminal work in American photography and art history.

It is the work with which Frank is most clearly identified.

Critic Sean O’Hagan, writing in The Guardian in 2014, said:

It is impossible to imagine photography’s recent past and overwhelmingly confusing present without his lingeringly pervasive presence.

Above: “Mr. and Mrs. Feiertag/Late afternoon“, Robert Frank, from the photo essay “People You Don’t See (series),” 1951

In 1961, Frank received his first individual show, entitled Robert Frank: Photographer, at the Art Institute of Chicago.

He also showed at MoMA in New York in 1962.

Above: Art Institute of Chicago, Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois, USA

The French journal Les cahiers de la photographie devoted special issues 11 and 12 in 1983 to discussion of Robert Frank as a gesture of admiration for, and complicity with, his work, also to set forth his critical capacity as an artist.

To mark the 50th anniversary of the first publication of The Americans, a new edition was released worldwide on May 30, 2008.

For this new edition, most photographs are uncropped (in contrast to the cropped versions in previous editions).

Two photographs are replaced with those of the same subject but from an alternate perspective.

Above: Robert Frank, “Covered car — Long Beach, California”, 1956

A celebratory exhibit of The Americans, titled Looking In: Robert Frank’s The Americans, was displayed in 2009 at the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA), and at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Above: National Gallery of Art, Washington DC, USA

Above: Museum of Modern Art, San Francisco, California, USA

Above: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City, New York, USA

An accompanying book, also titled Looking In: Robert Frank’s The Americans, was published, the most in-depth examination of any photography book ever, at 528 pages.

While working as a guard at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Jason Eskenazi asked other noted photographers visiting the Looking In exhibition to choose their favorite image from The Americans and explain their choice, resulting in the book, By the Glow of the Jukebox: The Americans List.

Though Frank continued to be interested in film and video, he returned to still images in the 1970s, publishing his second photographic book, The Lines of My Hand, in 1972.

This work has been described as a “visual autobiography“, and consists largely of personal photographs.

However, he largely gave up “straight” photography to instead create narratives out of constructed images and collages, incorporating words and multiple frames of images that were directly scratched and distorted on the negatives.

None of this later work has achieved an impact comparable to that of The Americans. 

In contrast to The Americans, Frank’s later images simply were not beyond the pale of accepted technique and practice by that time.

By the time The Americans was published in the US in 1959, Frank had moved away from photography to concentrate on filmmaking.

Among his films was the 1959 Pull My Daisy, which was written and narrated by Kerouac and starred Ginsberg and others from the Beat circle.

The Beats emphasized spontaneity.

The film conveyed the quality of having been thrown together or even improvised.

Pull My Daisy was accordingly praised for years as an improvisational masterpiece, until Frank’s co-director, Alfred Leslie, revealed in a 28 November 1968 article in the Village Voice that the film was actually carefully planned, rehearsed, and directed by him and Frank, who shot the film with professional lighting.

In 1960, Frank stayed in Pop artist George Segal’s basement while filming The Sin of Jesus.

Above: American artist George Segal (1924 – 2000)

Isaac Babel’s story was transformed to center on a woman working on a chicken farm in New Jersey.

Above: Russian writer Isaac Babel (1894 – 1940)

It was originally supposed to be filmed in six weeks in and around New Brunswick, Canada, but Frank ended up shooting for six months.

Above: Flag of the Canadian province of New Brunswick

Frank’s 1972 documentary of the Rolling Stones is arguably his best known film.

The film shows the Stones on tour, engaging in heavy drug use and group sex.

Frank said of the Stones:

It was great to watch them — the excitement.

But my job was after the show.

What I was photographing was a kind of boredom.

It’s so difficult being famous.

It’s a horrendous life.

Everyone wants to get something from you.” 

Mick Jagger reportedly told Frank:

It’s a good film, Robert, but if it shows in America we’ll never be allowed in the country again.

The Stones sued to prevent the film’s release.

It was disputed whether Frank as the artist or the Stones as those who hired the artist owned the copyright.

A court order restricted the film to being shown no more than five times per year, and only in the presence of Frank.

Frank’s photography also appeared on the cover of the Rolling Stones’ album Exile on Main Street.

Above: Album cover, The Rolling Stones, Exile on Main Street

Other films by Frank include: 

  • Me and My Brother
  • Keep Busy
  • Candy Mountain

Frank and Mary separated in 1969.

He remarried, to sculptor June Leaf.

Above: American artist June Leaf

In 1971, they moved to the community of Mabou, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada. 

Above: Mabou, Nova Scotia, Canada

In 1974, his daughter, Andrea, was killed in a plane crash in Tikal, Guatemala.

In 1995, in memory of his daughter he founded the Andrea Frank Foundation, which provides grants to artists.

Above: Mayan Temple 1, Tikal, Guatemala

Also around this time, his son, Pablo, was first hospitalized and diagnosed with schizophrenia.

Much of Frank’s subsequent work dealt with the impact of the loss of both his daughter and subsequently his son, who died in an Allentown, Pennsylvania hospital in 1994.

Above: Images of Allentown, Pennsylvania, USA

Well, we’re living here in Allentown
And they’re closing all the factories down
Out in Bethlehem they’re killing time
Filling out forms
Standing in line
Well, our fathers fought the Second World War
Spent their weekends on the Jersey Shore
Met our mothers in the USO
Asked them to dance
Danced with them slow
And we’re living here in Allentown

But the restlessness was handed down
And it’s getting very hard to stay

Well, we’re waiting here in Allentown
For the Pennsylvania we never found
For the promises our teachers gave
If we worked hard
If we behaved
So the graduations hang on the wall
But they never really helped us at all
No, they never taught us what was real
Iron and coke
And chromium steel
And we’re waiting here in Allentown

But they’ve taken all the coal from the ground
And the union people crawled away

Every child had a pretty good shot
To get at least as far as their old man got
But something happened on the way to that place
They threw an American flag in our face

Well, I’m living here in Allentown
And it’s hard to keep a good man down
But I won’t be getting up today

And it’s getting very hard to stay
And we’re living here in Allentown

After his move to Nova Scotia, Canada, Frank divided his time between his home there, in a former fisherman’s shack on the coast, and his Bleeker Street loft in New York.

He acquired a reputation for being a recluse (particularly since the death of Andrea), declining most interviews and public appearances.

Above: Robert Frank address, 7 Bleecker Street, Manhattan, New York City, New York, USA

He continued to accept eclectic assignments, however, such as photographing the 1984 Democratic National Convention, and directing music videos for artists such as New Order (“Run“) and Patti Smith (“Summer Cannibals“).

Above: Logo of the US Democratic Party

Above: Front cover for the single Summer Cannibals by Patti Smith

Frank produced both films and still images, and helped organize several retrospectives of his art.

His work has been represented by Pace/MacGill Gallery in New York since 1984.

In 1994, the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC presented the most comprehensive retrospective of Frank’s work to date, entitled Moving Out.

Anthony works in the grocery store
Savin’ his pennies for someday
Mama Leone left a note on the door
She said, “Sonny, move out to the country”
Workin’ too hard can give you
A heart attack (ack, ack, ack, ack, ack)
You oughta know by now (oughta know)
Who needs a house out in Hackensack
Is that what you get for your money?

It seems such a waste of time
If that’s what it’s all about
Mama, if that’s movin’ up
Then I’m movin’ out
I’m movin’ out

Sergeant O’Leary is walkin’ the beat
At night he becomes a bartender
He works at Mister Cacciatore’s down
On Sullivan Street
Across from the medical center
He’s tradin’ in his Chevy for a Cadillac (ack, ack, ack, ack, ack)
You oughta know by now
And if he can’t drive
With a broken back
At least he can polish the fenders

It seems such a waste of time
If that’s what it’s all about
Mama, if that’s movin’ up
Then I’m movin’ out
I’m movin’ out

You should never argue with a crazy mind (mi-, mi-, mi-, mi-, mi-)
You oughta know by now
You can pay Uncle Sam with the overtime
Is that all you get for your money
If that’s what you have in mind
If that’s what you’re all about
Good luck movin’ up
‘Cause I’m moving out
I’m moving out (mmm)
Ou, ou, uh huh (mmm)

I’m moving out

Frank died on 9 September 2019, at his home in Nova Scotia.

Above: Robert Frank home, Mabou, Nova Scotia

Let us return back to Switzerland and Arnold Kübler…..

Above: Arnold Kübler, editor of the Zürcher Illustrierte

(Under Kübler, in the literary section, works by Hermann Hesse and Max Frisch were included.

Above: German writer Hermann Hesse (1877 – 1962)

Above: Swiss writer Max Frisch (1911 – 1991)

In 1941, Conzett & Huber decided to sell the Zürcher Illustrierte and publish a new magazine with which they planned to promote the multi-color print they have developed.

Arnold Kübler became the editor-in-chief of the newly founded cultural magazine Du, which he ran for 16 years.

Under Kübler’s leadership, Du became a well respected cultural magazine, employing prominent photographers and focused on painters like Pablo Picasso, Joan Miro and Paul Klee.

Above: Spanish artist Joan Miro (1893 – 1983)

Above: Swiss artist Paul Klee (1879 – 1940)

Kübler was active in his positions as a cultural mediator and source of inspiration, but did not neglect his own artistic forms of expression:

In the 1960s he returned to the theatre stage with great success as a one-man cabaret.

In addition, Kübler was active in drawing and writing, which he was able to combine in several of his books, for example, in the travelogue Paris – Bâle à pied (Paris to Basel on foot) – Report and drawings of a 500 km journey on foot in 28 days (1967). 

In his Öppi novels, Kübler described autobiographical events on more than 2,000 pages.

Kübler’s works:

  • The Failed Actor (1934)
  • The Heart, the Corner, the Donkey, and Other Stories (1939)
  • Öppi from Wasenwachs: The boy without a mother (1943)
  • Öppi the student (1947)
  • Öppi and Eve (1951)
  • Velodyssey: A sporting epic (1955)
  • In Alfred Hüggenberger’s country: A winter journey with drawings (1958)
  • Mitenand, gägenenand, durenand: A picture book of how to treat your neighbor in Switzerland (1959)
  • Zurich experienced, drawn, explained (1960)
  • 48 cheerful stories (1961)
  • The dare: A Zürich booklet about Basel (1961)
  • Sites and cities: Experienced, drawn, explained (1963)
  • Öppi the fool (1964)
  • Draw, Antonio! (1966)
  • Babette, best regards: Predominantly true accounts and drawings (1967)
  • Paris – Bâle à pied: Report and drawings of a 500 km journey on foot in 28 days (1967)
  • Say & write! – A humorous cabaret autobiographical contribution to the cultural history of the city of Zürich (1969)
  • Israel: a look – Report with drawings (1970)
  • Stay: Mostly cheerful reports with drawings (1974) )

Above: Original German language version of Arnold Kübler’s The Failed Actor

(Alfred Huggenberger (1867 – 1960) (aka Dr. Hans Meyerlein) was a Swiss writer. 

Above: Alfred Huggenberger

With his numerous farces, stories and poems, both in standard German and in his Eastern Swiss dialect, he became known beyond Switzerland.

Alfred Huggenberger was born the son of a farmer in Bewangen (Canton Zürich) near the border of Canton Thurgau. 

Above: Village school with clock tower, Bertschikon bei Attikon, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

At the age of 29, he took over his parents’ farm, which burned down, due to arson, in 1904. 

Together with his wife Bertha and their daughter, Huggenberger moved to neighboring Gerlikon (Canton Thurgau) in 1908, where he took over a smaller farm that gave him more time for his literary work.

Above: St. George Chapel, Gerlikon, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Alfred Huggenberger began writing early on. 

He made his literary breakthrough beyond the Swiss border in 1907 with the book Hinterm Pflug (Behind the Plough) supported by well-known authors, such as Hermann Hesse. 

During the National Socialist era, he was used by the Nazis to propagate blood and soil literature.

(Blood and soil literature is the contrast between town and country, with the city embodying the concepts of democracy, liberalism, modernism and individualism as negative values, and the rural countryside, with its naturalness.

A sense of community and an anti-progress ideal represented the supposedly positive pole. 

Blood and soil literature differs from other streams of Nazi fiction in its glorification of country life, nature and the return to nature.)

Above: Coat of arms of the German Reich (1935 – 1945)

(I never cease to be amazed by how the Nazis could take something wonderful and convert it into something terrible.

For example, the swastika is a millennia-old sacred symbol in Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism that represents peace and good fortune, but in the West, it remains equated to Adolf Hitler’s hooked cross (Hakenkreuz).

Happily, calls to reclaim the swastika as a sacred symbol become louder.

Above: Hindu Swastika

Another example is Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche (1844 – 1900), a German philosopher, prose poet, cultural critic and philologist, whose work has exerted a profound influence on contemporary philosophy.

Nietzsche’s writing spans philosophical polemics, poetry, cultural criticism and fiction while displaying a fondness for aphorism and irony.

Prominent elements of his philosophy include:

  • his radical critique of truth in favor of perspectivism
  • a genealogical critique of religion and Christian morality and a related theory of master – slave morality
  • the aesthetic affirmation of life in response to both the “death of God” and the profound crisis of nihilism
  • the notion of Apollonian and Dionysian forces
  • a characterization of the human subject as the expression of competing wills, collectively understood as the will to power

He also developed influential concepts such as the Übermensch (Superman) and his doctrine of eternal return.

In his later work, he became increasingly preoccupied with the creative powers of the individual to overcome cultural and moral mores in pursuit of new values and aesthetic health.

His body of work touched a wide range of topics, including:

  • art
  • philology
  • history
  • music
  • religion
  • tragedy
  • culture
  • science 

After his death, Nietzsche’s sister Elisabeth became the curator and editor of his manuscripts.

She edited his unpublished writings to fit her German ultranationalist ideology, often contradicting or obfuscating Nietzsche’s stated opinions, which were explicitly opposed to antisemitism.

Through her, Nietzsche’s work became associated with fascism and Nazism.

20th-century scholars defended Nietzsche against this interpretation.

Corrected editions of his writings were soon made available.

Nietzsche’s thought enjoyed renewed popularity in the 1960s.

His ideas have since had a profound impact on 20th- and early 21st-century thinkers across philosophy — especially in schools of Continental philosophy (such as existentialism, postmodernism and post-structuralism — as well as art, literature, poetry, politics, and popular culture.

Above: Friedrich Nietzsche (1844 – 1900)

I have visited the Nietzsche Museum in Sils Maria, where the philosopher spent his final years.

I highly recommend a visit.)

Above: Nietzsche Haus Museum, Sils Maria, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland, where the German philosopher lived during the summers of 1881 and from 1883 to 1888.

(In addition to absorbing Germanic pagan myths, blood-and-soil literature played an important role in the creation of the Nazi worldview.

Nature and natural life are made the subject of a political myth by the writers of the blood-and-soil style. 

The focus is on the farmer and the farmer’s wife as symbols of the “pure” German par excellence. 

Village society appears as a Nazi microcosm. 

Nazi racism is propagated through blood and soil literature.

One of the basic tenets of the genre is the idea that “nobility” is nothing other than the peasant clan who must hold on to their indivisible, unsaleable hereditary farm for the purpose of breeding, to keep their blood pure.)

Above: German People, German Work, Kaiserdamm, Berlin, Germany (1934)

Huggenberger’s entire oeuvre comprises over 100 volumes of prose and poetry – some in Standard German, some in Swiss German – as well as numerous plays. 

Huggenberger worked in agriculture until old age. 

He died at the age of 92 in the former monastery of St. Katharinental and is buried in the cemetery in Gachnang.)

Above: Monastery of St. Katharinenthal, Diesenhofen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Now let us go back to Altnau and Hans Baumgartner…..

Above: Swiss teacher/photographer Hans Baumgartner

Baumgartner’s first photo report appeared in 1935.

Baumgartner then published in magazines, such as Camera, Du, Der Schweizer Spiegel (the Swiss Mirror), Die Schweiz (Switzerland) and Föhn (a type of dry, relatively warm, downslope wind that occurs in the lee (downwind side) of a mountain range – what Canadians call a chinook). 

The Neue Zürcher Zeitung (New Zurich newspaper) and the Thurgauer Zeitung also published his pictures. 

His photo books (from 1941) deal primarily with themes from his home canton of Thurgau. 

Above: Exercise in the snow, Hans Baumgartner photograph

In 1937, he made the acquaintance of the painter Adolf Dietrich, whom he subsequently portrayed several times.

Above: Swiss artist Adolf Dietrich

(Adolf Dietrich (1877 – 1957) was a Swiss painter.

Dietrich was born in a small, modest house in Berlingen, in Canton Thurgau, the 7th child of Heinrich Dietrich and Dorothea (née Kern). 

Above: Adolf Dietrich Haus, Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Even as a small boy he collected a lot and tried to imitate and draw everything. 

From 1885 to 1893 he attended primary school. 

He was a good and diligent student. 

His teacher recognized his talent for drawing and encouraged it. 

He recommended to his parents that their son should do an apprenticeship as a lithographer. 

But the family was poor and Adolf had to learn a trade that would earn him more. 

So he started to work in a jersey factory in Berlingen. 

On Sundays he painted and drew passionately. 

From 1896 to 1910 he worked at home as a machine knitter.

 Above: Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Nature with its mysteries and wonders fascinated him more and more. 

He began a first sketchbook and a dozen animal watercolours followed

In 1902, Dietrich became friends with Friedrich Neeser, a baker’s apprentice who also painted. 

They spent Sundays together in nature. 

Neeser encouraged the serious and somewhat anxious Adolf not to give up painting.

Above: Waldrand, Adolf Dietrich (1918)

In 1903, Dietrich drew his first self-portrait in charcoal. 

Above: Adolf Dietrich

His brother, who lived in Ludwigshafen am Rhein, commissioned him to paint a portrait of his parents. 

Above: Ludwigshafen am Rhein, Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany

That same year his mother died. 

From then on, Dietrich lived alone with his father in a small house in Berlingen. 

Above: Dorothea and Heinrich Dietrich

Working from home on the knitting machine helped to cope with the daily worries of existence. 

For technical reasons, however, he soon gave up working from home and earned his living as a forest worker. 

In 1913, he exhibited his paintings for the first time in Konstanz in the Wessenberghaus Museum. 

Above: Wessenberg Haus, Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

This was followed by further exhibitions in various galleries in Germany.

In 1918 his father died. 

This loss was difficult for him. 

Above: Moonlight on the Bodensee, Adolf Dietrich

Dietrich was discovered by the art dealer Herbert Tannenbaum, which enabled Dietrich to exhibit at various locations in Germany. 

Tannenbaum endeavored to make Dietrich known in Switzerland and soon obtained permission for exhibitions in Zürich and Schaffhausen. 

From 1924, Dietrich was able to make a living from his painting.

In 1937, Adolf Dietrich met Hans Baumgartner, who portrayed him several times for the magazine Du, thus helped him to achieve his international breakthrough.  

As a result, Dietrich was able to take part in exhibitions in Paris, London and New York.

It was not until 1941 that his home canton of Thurgau acquired a picture of his. 

From 1942, the demand for his pictures became so great that he copied his own pictures and promised the same picture to several people at the same time. 

He painted until his death. 

He died in his house in Berlingen. 

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

The lawyer Hans Buck, the author of Adolf Dietrich as a draftsman, made sure that Dietrich wrote a will and in it foresightedly thought of a future Thurgau art museum.

Adolf Dietrich had been fascinated by nature and animals since his childhood. 

He owned many stuffed animals that he drew. 

He often drew his garden or the Bodensee.

He painted portraits and various still life works.

Adolf Dietrich had no academic training as a painter. 

He always drew very precisely, so his pictures are very realistic. 

Above: Balbo lying on the meadow, Adolf Dietrich, 1955

Above: Fox in the forest, Adolf Dietrich

At the beginning Adolf Dietrich made pencil drawings in his sketchbooks on his hikes, 18 are still preserved today. 

Around 1929 he began taking black-and-white photographs, leaving behind several thousand.

He never painted in nature, but only ever made a sketch, which he then painted in color at home from memory. 

He never used an easel and always painted his pictures on the table in his living room, often in poor light. 

His techniques were gouache and watercolour painting, charcoal drawing, oil painting and pencil sketches.

In the beginning he painted on cardboard, later on wood, but only rarely on canvas. 

For this reason quite a lot of his pictures are in a sensitive condition.

The Museum is in his former home in Berlingen and is worth a visit.)

Above: Inside Adolf Dietrich Haus Museum, Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

(The Nazis completed destroyed the worthiness of the given name Adolf, which originally meant “noble wolf“.

Above: Seal of King Adolf of Nassau (1255 – 1298)

In both Protestant Germany (because of Swedish King Gustav Adolf and German writer Adolph von Knigge) and Catholic Germany (because of German priest/philosopher Adolph Kolping), Adolf enjoyed some popularity. 

Above: Swedish King Gustav Adolf (1594 – 1632)

Above: German writer Adolphe von Knigge (1752 – 1796)

Above: Adolph Kolping (1813 – 1865)

In 1890, the name was in 13th place on the popularity scale of all male first names in Germany.  

But since the beginning of the 20th century, its frequency as a first name has been decreasing. 

After an upswing from 1933, which lasted until 1942, the use of the name collapsed – in correlation with Adolf Hitler’s popularity.

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

 

Since the early 1950s, the first name Adolf has rarely been given to newborns in German-speaking countries.

The name is heavily burdened by the dictator Adolf Hitler and other Nazis, such as Adolf Eichmann (who orchestrated the Holocaust).

Above: Adolf Eichmann (1906 – 1962)

The first name is given about 15 times a year in Germany. 

The competent registry office decides on the admissibility in individual cases, in particular on the basis of the best interests of the child. 

In cases of doubt, they can consult the Onomastics Center at the University of Leipzig.

Above: Logo of the University of Leipzig, Saxony, Germany

The name was also popular in Sweden, where several kings bore the name. 

However, it has not been in the top ten most popular first names in any decade since the 1920s. 

In 2015, there were only around 2,600 bearers of this name in Sweden. 

Since at least 1998, fewer than ten newborn boys have been given this name each year. 

Above: Flag of Sweden

In the 2018 film Der Vorname (just like in the original 2012 French film Le Prénom), the name is the catalyst for a consequential dispute among the antagonists.

In it, an expectant father says with deadly seriousness that he will name his son Adolf

But he only wants to provoke his brother-in-law in order to give him a tit-for-tat for his constant mockery.)

Baumgartner also photographed his trips to Paris and Italy, the Balkans, southern France, North Africa and the Sahara, Croatia and the Dalmatian Coast, Burgundy, Spain and Portugal, Sweden and Finland, the US, Hungary, Belgium and Germany. 

Above: Sand dunes, Sahara Desert, Algeria

Above: Flag of Croatia

Above: Flag of Portugal

Above: Flag of Hungary

On his world trip by ship in 1963, he reached Asia (Bombay/Mumbai, Colombo, Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City, Hong Kong, Yokohama) and the American continent (Mexico and the US). 

Above: Mumbai, India

Above: Parliament Buildings, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Above: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Above: Hong Kong, China

Above: Yokohama, Japan

Stays at spas took him to Davos.

Above: Images of Davos, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

Hans Baumgartner died in Frauenfeld in 1996. 

Above: Frauenfeld, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The Swiss Foundation for Photography manages his estate of around 120,000 photographs.

It cannot be denied that Switzerland, despite its diminutive size (as compared to Canada or Turkey), is replete with talented artists.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Above: Flag of Canada

Above: Flag of Turkey

All of the above-mentioned Swiss artists, save Dietrich, travelled the world.

Dietrich’s world surrounded him.

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

I mention Baumgartner, because I think his photography abandoned the sphere of technical experimentation, the abstract and the avant-garde.

Photography became more wholesome, concentrating on the poetry of real things, the universal language of life.

Baumgartner was a teacher but by following his passions he succeeded in creating photos that tell a narrative, such as in Italy, a stolen image of lovers resting beside their discarded bicycles amongst long summer grass in an olive grove, or in Java, a boy stretches balletically across the pavement as he plays marbles.

Above: Hans Baumgartner

Kübler tried to be a geologist, then a sculptor, found success as an actor, was disfigured and still managed to achieve success as an artist in the field of literature.

Kübler believed in the role that photography can play upon the people who view it.

Above: Arnold Kübler

Senn showed that photography can be of a humanist nature.

Above: Paul Senn

Bischof sought to capture the true face of the world, the essence of real life.

Above: Werner Bischof

Tuggener showed that there was poetry in photography.

Above: Jakob Tuggener

Dieter’s guide to creation was Creation itself.

Above: Flowers by the Window with Butterflies, Adolf Dietrich

I believe that once Frank and Huggenberger moved on from their beloved Switzerland they gained their reputations, but lost themselves and the beautiful spirit that is Switzerland that had nurtured them.

Above: Swiss International Air Lines logo

I have only mentioned a few famous Swiss photographers but there are many more worthy of mention, such as:

Fred Boissonnas (1858 – 1946) was a Swiss photographer from Geneva.

Above: Fred Boissonnas

His work is considered crucial for the development of photography in Greece, and its use in favourably publicising the country’s expansionist ambitions, during the early 20th century.

Boissonnas constitutes a central figure in the transition from 19th century approaches to a more contemporary photography of antiquities.

Between 1903 and 1933 Boissonnas made several trips to Greece where he systematically documented Greece in landscape photographs, taken in all corners of the country, reflect its continuity from ancient times to the present day.

On one Greek expedition with compatriot art historian Daniel Baud-Bovy (1870 – 1958), Boissonnas made the first recorded modern-era ascent of Mount Olympus on 2 August 1913, aided by a hunter of wild goats.

Above: Mount Olympus, Greece

In total, Boissonnas published 14 photo albums dedicated to Greece, many of which belong to the thematic series entitled L’image de la Grece (The Image of Greece), his imagery contributing decisively to the identity of Greece in Europe, its promotion as a tourist destination but also its political situation.

His photographs of archaeological sites form 20% of his total Greek series.

He visited the Acropolis, Delphi, Olympia, Dodoni, Knossos, Delos, and many other sites, providing an extensive iconographic panorama of classical Greek antiquities.

Above: The Acropolis, Athens, Greece

Above: Delphi, Greece

Above: Olympia, Greece

Above: Dodoni, Greece

Above: Knossos, Crete

Above: Delos, Greece

Interested not only in documenting a site, Boissonnas also aimed to interpret the Greek landscape in combining classical antiquity with the provincial Greek folklore through associations of natural and cultural elements carefully composed and in the best ambient light.

His last photo album about Greece Following the ship of Ulysses (1933) sought to reconstruct the epic and, in a symbolic way, the dissemination of Greek culture throughout Europe. 

The photographs were accompanied by excerpts from Homer’s Odyssey.

  • Fred Mayer – One of Switzerland’s most influential photographers, Mayer travelled to Indonesia, where he shot a documentation about the former President Sukarno.

Above: Ilse and Fred Mayer

Above: Sukarno ( Koesno Sosrodihardjo)(1901 – 1970)(Indonesian President: 1945 – 1967)

His other works include pictures of King Hussein of Jordan and portfolios from all around the world, from the Vatican to Bali.

Above: Hussein bin Talal (1935 – 1999) (King of Jordan: 1952 – 1999)

Above: Flag of Vatican City

Above: Flag of Bali, Indonesia

He further published books about various countries, the Russian orthodox church, Chakkar Polo, Japanese theatre and the Chinese Opera.

Above: Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, Moscow, Russia

Above: Noh theatre, Japan

Above: Chinese National Opera House, Beijing, China

In 2011, Mayer published Homage to Hermann Hesse and his Siddhartha, based on the novel Siddhartha by the German author Hermann Hesse.

  • René Groebli – His first small folio Magie der Schiene (Rail magic) comprising 16 photographs (with front and back cover) was also shot in 1949 and self-published later the same year.

Above: René Groebli

It captures the ‘magic’ of steam train travel during the late 1940s.

Photographed in and around Paris, as well as locations in Switzerland, the often motion-blurred and grainy images convey the energy of steam.

The small book, Das Auge der Liebe (The Eye of Love), though respected for its design and photography, caused some controversy, but also brought Groebli attention.

The term “love” in the title being considered by students to be too sentimental given the obvious sexual connotations.

Where the photographer’s intention was for a romantic effect, the editor admitted that the narrative was sexualized.

In the leading periodical Neue Zürcher Zeitung, editor Edwin Arnet objected to the emphasis on nudity. 

Groebli sequenced his photographs to tell the story of a woman meeting a man in a cheap hotel.

The last photograph shows the woman’s hand with a wedding ring on her ring finger holding an almost finished post-coitus cigarette.

In the perception of audiences of the era, the implication was that the woman had to be either an ‘easy woman’, a prostitute, or an unfaithful wife.

However the US Camera Annual review of the work in 1955 pronounced it “a tender photo essay on a photographer’s love for a woman”.

  • René Robert (1936 – 2022) – In the mid-1960s, he moved to Paris, where he met a Swedish dancer who introduced him to the flamenco.

Above: René Robert

In 1967, he became one of the great portrait photographers.

He photographed personalities such as Spanish virtuoso flamenco guitarist Paco de Lucia (1947 – 2014), Spanish flamenco dancers Israel Galván and Rocio Molina Cruz in black-and-white.

Above: Paco de Lucia

Above: Israel Galván

Above: Rocio Molina Cruz

On the evening of 19 January 2022, Robert was walking through the Place de la République in Paris when he suddenly had a heart attack and collapsed on the sidewalk on rue de Turbigo.

Despite Robert lying motionless and on the pavement for nine hours, no one stopped to assist him or called for help, until eventually a homeless person called the emergency services.

Robert died of hypothermia on 20 January 2022, at the age of 85.

His death was subsequently the subject of media debate around public indifference to street people.

Above: Monument to the Glory of France, Place de la Republique, Paris, France

  • Ella Maillart (1903 – 1997) – From the 1930s onwards, she spent years exploring Muslim republics of the USSR, as well as other parts of Asia, and published a rich series of books which, just as her photographs, are today considered valuable historical testimonies.

Above: Ella Maillart (1903 – 1997)

Her early books were written in French, but later she began to write in English. 

Turkestan Solo describes a journey in 1932 in Soviet Turkestan.

Above: (in green) Former location of Soviet Central Asia / Russian Turkestan

Photos from this journey are now displayed in the Ella Maillart Wing of the Karakol Historical Museum, Kyrgyzstan.

Above: Flag of Kyrgyzstan

In 1934, the French daily Le Petit Parisien (1876 – 1944) sent her to Manchuria to report on the situation under the Japanese occupation.

Above: Map of Manchuria – From left to right: Outer Manchuria / Inner Manchuria / Northern Manchuria

Above: Images of the Second Sino-Japanese War / War of Chinese Resistance (1937 – 1945)

It was there that she met Peter Fleming (1907 – 1971), a well-known writer and correspondent of The Times, with whom she would team up to cross China from Peking (Beijing) to Srinagar (3,500 miles), much of the route being through hostile desert regions and steep Himalayan passes.

Above: English writer Peter Fleming (elder brother of James Bond creator Ian Fleming)

Above: Flag of China

Above: Beijing, China

Above: Srinagar, India

The journey started in February 1935 and took seven months to complete, involving travel by train, on lorries, on foot, horse and camelback.

Their objective was to ascertain what was happening in Xinjiang (Chinese Turkestan) where the Kumul Rebellion (1931 – 1934) had just ended.

Above: (in red) Location of Xinjiang (Chinese Turkestan)

Above: Turkic conscripts of the 36th Division near Kumul – They are carrying Kuomintaung (Chinese Nationalist Party)(blue sky with a white sun) flags.

Above: Emblem of the Kuomintang

Maillart and Fleming met the Hui (Chinese Muslim) forces of General Ma Hushan.

Above: Ma Hushan (1910 – 1954)

Ella Maillart later recorded this trek in her book Forbidden Journey, while Peter Fleming’s parallel account is found in his News from Tartary.

In 1937 Maillart returned to Asia for Le Petit Parisien to report on Afghanistan, Iran and Turkey.

Above: Ella Maillert, Meshid, Iran, 1939

In 1939 she undertook a trip from Geneva to Kabul by car, in the company of the Swiss writer, Annemarie Schwarzenbach. 

The Cruel Way is the title of Maillart’s book about this experience, cut short by the outbreak of the Second World War.

Above: Genève (Geneva), Switzerland

Above: Kabul, Afghanistan

Above: Annemarie Schwarzenbach and Ella Maillert

She spent the war years at Tiruyannamalai in southern India, learning from different teachers about Advaita Vedanta, one of the schools of Hindu philosophy.

Above: Images of Tiruvannamalai, India

On her return to Switzerland in 1945, she lived in Geneva and at Chandolin, a mountain village in the Swiss Alps.

Above: Chandolin, Canton Valais, Switzerland

  • Annemarie Schwarzenbach (1908 – 1942) was a Swiss writer, journalist and photographer.

Above: Annemarie Schwarzenbach

Her bisexual mother brought her up in a masculine style, and her androgynous image suited the bohemian Berlin society of the time, in which she indulged enthusiastically.

Her anti-Fascist campaigning forced her into exile, where she became close to the family of novelist Thomas Mann.

Above: German novelist Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

She would live much of her life abroad as a photojournalist, embarking on many lesbian relationships, and experiencing a growing morphine addiction.

In America, the young Carson McCullers (1917 – 1967) was infatuated with Schwarzenbach, to whom she dedicated Reflections in a Golden Eye.

Above: American writer Carson McCullers (1917 – 1967)

Schwarzenbach reported on the early events of World War II.

On 7 September 1942 in the Engadin, she fell from her bicycle and sustained a serious head injury.

Following a mistaken diagnosis in the Sils clinic where she was treated, she died on 15 November.

Above: Silssee (Lake of Sils), Engadin Valley, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

There always remains a question in my mind as I travel and discover what personalities places have fostered:

Did these places make them the people they became or would they have become what they were regardless of the environment which spawned them?

Had René Robert not had his heart attack in Paris would he have continued to live on?

Why did Maillart and Schwarzenbach, who had seen so much of the world, decide to return to their homeland of Switzerland – a nation famous for both its international diplomacy but insular fortress mentality?

The art that all these people produced is inspirational.

I love the way words and pictures can work together on a page or a screen.

When wise words have visuals added to them, they seem to travel further, like paper airplanes catching an updraught.

I ask myself questions as I once again visualize the quiet beauty of the Altnau of my memories:

How alike to these Swiss artists in any way might I be, might had I become, had I grown up here?

Would I have become a teacher much like Baumgarten, he who travelled the world but remained devoted to his classroom and his Canton and his country?

Or is it my fate to travel the world and die neglected far from home like René Robert or Werner Bischof?

Or would I have simply faded into the scene as beautiful and ignored as Altnau’s apple blossoms in spring?

The other thoughts that possess me as I type these words is the notion that not only are we products of the places we have been but we are as well artifacts of the age we live in.

Could this modern age of social media, audiovisual developments and the Internet have manifested the molds that made women and men like Baumgartner and Bischof, Senn and Schwarzenbach, Mayer and Maillart?

Words and photos have evolved into sound bites and film.

Books are buried by the cacophony of commentary crowding our consciousness continually by the inane insane bombardment of unfiltered information crashing upon us, drowning us in its mindless distraction.

There is so much reality that life feels unreal.

Technology has greatly improved the lives of many people around the world.

The use of the Internet, in particular, has become so widespread in so many countries that our daily existence is now unimaginable without it.

This is not necessarily a positive development.

When social media first started to become popular, it was an innocent extension of the standard types of interactions between friends and new acquaintances.

These days, however, there are two noticeable extremes, both negative:

One is where the platform is used as a substitute for human-to-human interaction.

The second is where it is employed as a way to bully or aggressively intimidate other people.

And I feel there is a third danger lurking in the corridor….

Above: Facebook logo

Above: Instagram logo

Above: WhatsApp logo

Above: Snapchat logo

For hundreds of years, the more forward-thinking elements of science and technology have stoked imaginations in the world of entertainment.

For example, a huge number of sci-fi movies were produced in the 20th century, a period during which space exploration became first a possibility, then a reality.

Many such films depict situations in which one character (in full bodily form) interacts with a 3-D holographic image of another.

Various aspects of society could be going through enormous changes as virtual reality (VR) technology moves towards fully operational and interactive implementation of its potential.

To what extent VR establishes itself as an integral part of our lives and how quickly it is likely to move from niche technology to common usage throughout society remains a matter of deliberation.

VR may well have become sufficiently developed for it to form an essential part of life by the mid-21st century, if not sooner.

Over 40 million people currently own VR headsets.

This figure is expected to double over the next three years.

By 2025, we may well have reached the point at which 200 million users will own a VR viewing device, a head-mounted display (HMD), more commonly known as a VR headset.

We may all prefer to live in a virtual reality that creates an illusion of a reality more desirable than real life itself.

Oh, the seduction promised by this brave new world!

Educators will be presented with a vast array of new opportunities through which to pass on knowledge.

Within the next ten years teachers may become able to move completely away from the course book or flat screen – even the classroom itself – and into an immersive world of instruction and learning.

By way of example, history students could be taken into the epicentre of the world’s greatest battles and conflicts, experiencing and understanding the machinations of victory first-hand.

Medical students may be provided with the opportunity to travel through the human body as if they were themselves the size of a blood cell, building their comprehension of how veins and arteries or nervous systems are interconnected.

Music students will be able to watch a VR orchestra perform their new composition in a venue of their choice, whether that be the local concert hall or even the Sydney Opera House.

Above: Sydney Opera House, Sydney, Australia

A student of Mandarin should one day be able to walk the streets of Beijing, conversing with the local native speakers and practising the regional pronunciation.

Similarly, by the year 2050, the concept of travel may have undergone a profound transformation.

Parts of the world currently inaccessible to most people, whether because the expense of flying is too great or because those places are too remote to be easily reached, will become open to visitors in the form of exact VR replicas of the original cities, rainforests, beaches, and so on.

Not only is this bound to please avid “travellers“, it could also appease the concerned environmentalist.

The number of commercial flight operators each day might well decrease as people opt for VR vacations.

Perhaps one day VR will be replaced by memory implants of having travelled as suggested by Philip K. Dick’s short story “We can remember it for you wholesale“, which was the inspiration for the 1990 film Total Recall and its 2012 remake.

Above: Philip K. Dick (1928 – 1982)

Perhaps in the future, widespread use of remotely controlled androids will enable everyone to live in idealized forms from the safety of their homes, as suggested by Robert Venditti’s comic book series The Surrogates, which became the 2009 sci-fi film Surrogates.

Despite its potential to change life as we know it today, it may even be possible that VR will ultimately fail to catch on in common usage, that HMDs will be consigned to history’s obsolescence in the same way as compact discs (CDs), mini disc players, the Walkman, cassette players, vinyl record players and personal digital assistants (PDAs).

After all, even the technology that today seems improbable will at some point become outdated.

Despite the optimism in some quarters, genuine interaction with holograms in the real world is still as far from becoming a reality as ever, so if the hologram cannot come to Muhammad then Muhammad must enter the world of the hologram.

Above: A compact disc

Above: Mini disc player

Above: Sony Walkman

Above: Cassette player

Above: Vinyl record player

Above: Personal digital assistant

However, what is currently available has begun to be used for entertainment purposes in a wide range of industries.

The music industry is one.

The music industry has sought to take advantage of holographic technology since its infancy.

There have been numerous examples – concerts and events – during which audiences have been able to watch modern vocalists sharing the stage with holographic images of performers who departed this world some time ago.

In fact, the technology has been developed to such an advanced level that it is almost possible to stage an entire concert performed by dead rock stars.

Great actors could also be resurrected.

Above: Hologram version of Buddy Holly (1936 – 1959)

Critics have argued that this is exploitative of both audiences and musicians, putting on stage an artist who has no way of refusing to be there.

This has led some people inside the music industry to predict a future of bands touring without needing to leave the rehearsal studio.

That being said, I think it would be rather unlikely for any fan to buy a ticket to watch their favourite artists, knowing that the performances they have paid to see is not technically a live show and that the musicians they admire do not wish to be present in the same room as they are.

Real-time 3-D representations of artists are becoming ever more accurate, but have less appeal for live audiences than authentic performances do.

As is often the case, the will to create something new and exciting for consumers of entertainment is hindered by the technology currently available to it.

So, if the real live artist cannot come to a concert, then perhaps it is more desirable to enter a virtual reality that brings the artist’s simulation to you.

Above: Holographic version of Roy Orbison (1936 – 1988)

All of this bothers me deeply.

For in this quest for speed, for distraction, for entertainment, for ease and comfort, we have forgotten to give ourselves the time to think and feel, which is crucial to our very existence.

Modern technology of the moment tends to pull us into life patterns that gradually degrade the ways in which each of us exists as an individual.

By immersing ourselves in VR or holographic illusion, to allow ourselves to become slaves to the machines that were designed to serve us, deemphasizes our value as individuals and the intrinsic value of an individual’s unique internal experience and creativity.

As technology gets “better and better“, as civilization becomes more and more digital, we are hurting ourselves.

The more dependent we become upon our technology, the more we lose the ability to self-determine, the more we lose our freedom.

The more we seek to become like everyone else, the more we lose ourselves.

The reality is that until we become someone, we are not ready to share our lives with someone else.

Widespread impersonal communication has demeaned interpersonal interaction.

The most important thing about technology is how it changes people.

For instance, Stanford University research demonstrated that changing the height of one’s avatar in immersive VR transforms self-esteem and social self-perception.

Technologies have become extensions of ourselves.

Different media designs stimulate different potentials in human nature.

We should not seek to make the pack mentality as efficient as possible.

We should instead seek to inspire the phenomenon of individual intelligence.

Algorithms may find correlations between what you say online and your purchases, your romantic adventures, your debts….

But a person is not a pat formula.

Being human is a quest, a mystery, a leap of faith.

Technology is meant to be an extension of our being, not a replacement of it.

I find myself thinking of the 2013 film The Congress and the 1971 sci-fi novel that inspired it – Stanislaw Lem’s The Futurological Congress.

Actress Robin Wright’s longtime agent Al (Harvey Keitel) takes her to meet Jeff Green (Danny Huston), CEO of film production company Miramount Studios, who offers to buy her likeness and digitize her into a computer-animated version of herself.

Realizing she may be unable to find future work with the emergence of this new technology, she agrees to sell the film rights to her digital image to Miramount in exchange for a hefty sum of money.

She is forced to promise never to act again.

After her body is digitally scanned, the studio will be able to make films starring her, using only computer-generated characters.

Since then, Robin’s virtual persona has become the star of a popular sci-fi action film franchise.

Twenty years later, as her contract is about to expire, Robin travels to Abrahama City, where she will speak at Miramount’s entertainment Futurological Conference in the Hotel Miramount Nagasaki, and also to renew her now-expired contract.

Abrahama City is an animated surreal Utopia that is created from figments of people’s imaginations, where anyone can become an animated avatar of themselves, but are required to use hallucinogenic drugs that allow them to enter a mutable illusionary state.

They can become anyone or anything they want to be.

Above: Scene from The Congress

While discussing her new contract, Robin learns that the studio has developed a new technology that will allow anyone to devour her or transform themselves into her.

She agrees to the deal, but has a crisis of conscience and does not believe anyone should be turned into a product.

Asking to speak to the public at the Congress, she publicly voices her contrary views, upsetting the hosts, judges and the councils of the Congress, who are unimpressed with her disapproval.

Above: Scene from The Congress

Shortly afterwards, the Congress is interrupted by an attack of a group of rebel terrorists and protesters ideologically opposed to the technology industry.

The head of the Congress is assassinated.

Returning to the unanimated real world, Robin finds herself in a dystopian environment.

The inhabitants are severely dysfunctional.

Most people have left the real world for an existence in the animated unreal world.

Above: Scene from The Congress

I am also reminded of Fahrenheit 451 and Brave New World.

Above: Movie poster for the 1966 film Fahrenheit 451

Above: Movie poster for 1980 film Brave New World

Fahrenheit 451 presents an American society where books have been personified, outlawed and burnt when found.

Ray Bradbury wrote the book as a commentary on how mass media reduces interest in reading literature, citing political correctness as the real enemy that seeks to control thought and freedom of speech.

Above: Ray Bradbury (1920 – 2012)

Between 1947 and 1948, Bradbury wrote “Bright Phoenix“, a short story about a librarian who confronts a “Chief Censor“, who burns books.

An encounter Bradbury had in 1949 with the police inspired him to write the short story “The Pedestrian” in 1951.

In “The Pedestrian“, a man going for a nighttime walk in his neighborhood is harassed and detained by the police.

In the society of “The Pedestrian“, citizens are expected to watch television as a leisurely activity, a detail that would be included in Fahrenheit 451.

The story features Leonard Mead, a citizen of a television-centered world in November 2053.

In the city the sidewalks have fallen into decay. Mead enjoys walking through the city at night, something which no one else does.

In ten years of walking by night or day, for thousands of miles, he had never met another person walking, not one in all that time.”

On one of his usual walks, he encounters a police car, which is robotic.

It is the only police unit in a city of three million as the purpose of law enforcement has disappeared with everyone watching television at night.

When asked about his profession Mead tells the car that he is a writer, but the car does not understand since no one buys books or magazines in the television-dominated society.

The police car, which is revealed to have no occupants, cannot understand why Mead would be out walking for no reason.

So it decides to take him to the Psychiatric Center for Research on Regressive Tendencies.

As the car passes through his neighborhood, Mead, locked in the confines of the back seat says, “That’s my house.”, as he points to a warm and bright house with all its lights on, unlike all the other houses.

There is no reply.

The story concludes.

The address of the main character, Leonard Mead, happens to be the address of the house in which Bradbury grew up.

This has caused speculation that this short story is actually referring to himself, or is in some related way a message to his home town of Waukegan, Illinois.

Above: Downtown Waukegan, Illinois, USA

The 60th anniversary of Fahrenheit 451 contains the short piece “The Story of Fahrenheit 451” by Jonathan R. Eller.

In it, Eller writes that Bradbury’s inspiration for the story came when he was walking down Wilshire Boulevard in Los Angeles with a friend in late 1949.

On their walk, a police cruiser pulled up and asked what they were doing.

Bradbury answered, “Well, we’re putting one foot in front of the other.

The policemen did not appreciate Ray’s joke and became suspicious of Bradbury and his friend for walking in an area where there were no pedestrians.

Inspired by this experience, he wrote “The Pedestrian“.

The short novella that would later evolve into Fahrenheit 451.

Above: “The Miracle Mile“, Wiltshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, California, USA – this stretch of Wilshire near the La Brea Tar Pits was named “Miracle Mile” for its improbable rise to prominence

What’s the matter with the clothes I’m wearing?
“Can’t you tell that your tie’s too wide?”
Maybe I should buy some old tab collars?
“Welcome back to the age of jive
Where have you been hidin’ out lately, honey?
You can’t dress trashy till you spend a lot of money”
Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the car I’m driving?
“Can’t you tell that it’s out of style?”
Should I get a set of white wall tires?
“Are you gonna cruise the Miracle Mile?
Nowadays you can’t be too sentimental
Your best bet’s a true baby blue Continental”
Hot funk, cool punk, even if it’s old junk
It’s still rock and roll to me

Oh, it doesn’t matter what they say in the papers
‘Cause it’s always been the same old scene
There’s a new band in town
But you can’t get the sound from a story in a magazine…
Aimed at your average teen

How about a pair of pink sidewinders
And a bright orange pair of pants?
“You could really be a Beau Brummell baby
If you just give it half a chance
Don’t waste your money on a new set of speakers,
You get more mileage from a cheap pair of sneakers”
Next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the crowd I’m seeing?
“Don’t you know that they’re out of touch?”
Should I try to be a straight ‘A’ student?
“If you are then you think too much
Don’t you know about the new fashion honey?
All you need are looks and a whole lotta money”
It’s the next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock and roll to me

Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

In Fahrenheit 451, Leonard’s character can be considered similar to that of Clarisse McClellan‘s uncle, who tells of a similar story repeated by her niece to Montag.

The Pedestrian” was adapted for radio and broadcast on the CBC (Canadian Broadcasting Corporation) program Theatre 10:30 (1968 – 1971).

Above: Corporate flag of the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (CBC)

The story was made into an episode of The Ray Bradbury Theatre, starring David Ogden Stiers as Leonard Mead.

Above: David Ogden Stiers (as Leonard Mead) (1942 – 2018)

Elements of both “Bright Phoenix” and “The Pedestrian” would be combined into “The Fireman“, a novella published in 1951.

Bradbury was urged to make “The Fireman” into a full novel. 

Simple pleasures and interests make one an outcast.

Bradbury recounts a history of how books lost their value as people began to embrace new media, sports, and an ever-quickening pace of life.

Books were ruthlessly abridged or degraded to accommodate shorter attention spans.

Books were condemned as sources of confusing and distressing thoughts that only complicated people’s lives.

In Aldous Huxley’s Brave New World, society’s methods of keeping its citizens peaceful is with the constant consumption of a soothing, happiness-producing drug, soma.

I am also reminded of the 2002 American dystopian sci-fi film Equilibrium:

Libria, a totalitarian city-state established by survivors of World War III, blames human emotion as the cause for the war.

Any activity or object that stimulates emotion is strictly forbidden.

Those in violation are labelled “Sense Offenders” and sentenced to death.

The population is forced to take a daily injection of “Prozium II” to suppress emotion.

Libria is governed by the Tetragrammaton Council, led by “Father“, who communicates propaganda through giant video screens throughout the city.

Above: Flag of Libria: The four Ts on the flag represent the Tetragrammaton Council.

At the pinnacle of law enforcement are the Grammaton Clerics, trained in the martial art of gun kata.

Clerics frequently raid homes to search for and destroy illegal materials – art, literature and music – executing violators on the spot.

A resistance movement, known as the “Underground“, emerges to topple Father and the Tetragrammaton Council.

The film follows John Preston (Christian Bale), an enforcement officer in a future in which feelings and artistic expression are outlawed and citizens take daily injections of powerful psychoactive drugs to suppress their emotions.

After accidentally missing a dose, Preston begins to experience emotions, which makes him question his morality and moderate his actions while attempting to remain undetected by the suspicious society in which he lives.

Ultimately, he aids the resistance movement using advanced martial arts, which he was taught by the regime he is helping to overthrow.

Above: Christian Bale (as John Preston), Equilibrium

Insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space and will to walk and think, to see and imagine, and against all that these acts embody.

We live in an age of fear of the time in-between, the time it takes to get from here to there, moments of meandering, of rushing and running.

The time in-between has been deplored as a waste, requiring reduction, silence silenced by earphones playing music, the serendipity of the scene that surrounds us is ignored by eyes downcast drawn to mobile phones.

The very ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the “useless“, is evaporating, as has appreciation of the outside – anything outside the familiar.

Mobile phones are our buffer against solitude, silence and encounters with the unknown.

But it is only in solitude and silence can we learn to love our own company and can hear our own mind.

It is encounters with the unknown through which we can learn to live and discover the myriad possibilities of existence.

Dependency on our devices is not freedom.

Dependency is merely distraction from our fears of the unknown.

Distraction ultimately leads to destruction of self.

What we’re living in?
Lemme tell ya

Yeah, it’s a wonder man can eat at all
When things are big that should be small
Who can tell what magic spells we’ll be doing for us

And I’m giving all my love to this world
Only to be told
I can’t see, I can’t breathe
No more will we be

And nothing’s gonna change the way we live
‘Cause we can always take, but never give
And now that things are changing for the worse, see
Whoa, it’s a crazy world we’re living in
And I just can’t see that half of us immersed in sin
Is all we have to give these

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground

And I’m thinking what a mess we’re in
Hard to know where to begin
If I could slip the sickly ties that earthly man has made
And now every mother can choose the color
Of her child, that’s not nature’s way

Well, that’s what they said yesterday
There’s nothing left to do, but pray
I think it’s time to find a new religion

Whoa, it’s so insane
To synthesize another strain
There’s something in these futures
That we have to be told

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground, wow

Now there is no sound
If we all live underground
And now it’s virtual insanity
Forget your virtual reality

Oh, there’s nothing so bad
As a manmade man
Oh, yeah, I know, yeah (take it to the dance floor)

I know I can’t go on

Of this virtual insanity we’re living in
Has got to change, yeah
Things will never be the same
And I can’t go on
Where we’re living in
Oh, oh, virtual insanity

Oh, this world
He’s got to change
‘Cause I just
I just can’t keep going on in this virtual, virtual insanity
That we’re living in, that we’re living in
And that virtual insanity is what is, yeah

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground, oh

Futures made of, now, virtual insanity
Now we all, we seem to be governed by a love
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
And now there is no sound, for we all live underground
Yes, we do, oh

Now this life that we live in
(Virtual insanity) it’s all going wrong
Out of the window (living in)
Do you know there is nothing worse than (virtual insanity)

A manmade man
(Virtual insanity) There’s nothing worse than
(Living in) a foolish man
(Virtual insanity) Hey!

Virtual insanity is what we’re living in, yeah
Well… It’s alright

Altnau is a small town, full of life and light and love, but one must walk its streets and stroll along its shore and meander through its apple orchards and linger on its jetty to capture its universal language.

Its past and the teacher-photographer who emerged from it and those of his ilk whose photographs captured the beauty of the canton, the country, the world, remind us that beauty is accessible to everyone, anywhere and everywhere, if only we choose to see it.

Walk away from your laptops and mobile phones.

Look up to the glory of the heavens instead.

Pull the phones from your ears.

Listen to the orchestra of songbirds, the crash of waves, and the whisper of your own thoughts.

Reject VR.

Choose reality.

Turn off the TV.

Switch off the radio.

Ignore movies that rob us of imagination.

Resist stimulants and distractions.

Learn to love life as it is in all its complexity.

Read a great work of literature.

Look at photographs and pictures.

Walk and make your own memories.

Words are the expression of thought.

Pictures are the expression of emotion.

Walking is the synchronicity of both thought and emotion in a symphony of all the senses.

Another suburban family morning.
Grandmother screaming at the wall.

We have to shout above the din of our Rice Crispies
We can’t hear anything at all.
Mother chants her litany of boredom and frustration,
But we know all her suicides are fake.

Daddy only stares into the distance
There’s only so much more that he can take.


Many miles away something crawls from the slime
At the bottom of a dark Scottish lake.

Another industrial ugly morning
The factory belches filth into the sky.
He walks unhindered through the picket lines today,
He doesn’t think to wonder why.
The secretaries pout and preen like cheap tarts in a red light street,
But all he ever thinks to do is watch.
And every single meeting with his so-called superior
Is a humiliating kick in the crotch.


Many miles away something crawls to the surface
Of a dark Scottish loch.

Another working day has ended.
Only the rush hour hell to face.
Packed like lemmings into shiny metal boxes.
Contestants in a suicidal race.
Daddy grips the wheel and stares alone into the distance,
He knows that something somewhere has to break.
He sees the family home now looming in his headlights,
The pain upstairs that makes his eyeballs ache.


Many miles away there’s a shadow on the door
Of a cottage on the shore
Of a dark Scottish lake
Many miles away [7x]

Altnau is nowhere special.

Altnau is everywhere special.

Discover your own Altnau.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Ray Bradbury, Fahrenheit 451 / The Pedestrian / Evliya Çelebi, The Book of Travels / Philip K. Dick, We can remember it for you wholesale / Aldous Huxley, Brave New World / Jamiroquai, Virtual Insanity / Billy Joel, Allentown / It’s still rock & roll to me / Movin’ Out / Jaron Lanier, You Are Not a Gadget / Stanislaw Lem, The Futurological Congress / The Police, Synchronicity II / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Louise Purwin Zobel: The Travel Writer’s Handbook

Canada Slim: Out of Nowhere

Canada Slim and the Pickwickian Road to Mürren – Part One (The departure)

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 20 November 2022

I have a hobby.

I find myself drawn to investigating and visiting places with any sort of a literary connection.

Tell me someone wrote something somewhere and I begin to plan a visit there.

I find myself drawn of late to Charles Dickens’ The Pickwick Papers and damned if I am not already envisioning a journey to England to retrace the tale of the irrepressible Samuel Pickwick and his fellow Pickwickians as they travelled around the English countryside getting into all kinds of scrapes and adventures.

“The first ray of light which illumines the gloom and converts into a dazzling brilliancy that obscurity in which the earlier history of the public career of the immortal Pickwick would appear to be involved is derived from the perusal of the following entry in the Transactions of the Pickwick Club, which the editor of these papers feels the highest pleasure in laying before his readers, as a proof of the careful attention, indefatigable assiduity and nice discrimination with which his search among the multifarious documents confided to him has been conducted.

London, England, 12 May 1827

Joseph Smiggers, Esquire, Perpetual Vice-President – Member Pickwick Club (PVPMPC) presiding.

The following resolutions unanimously agreed to:

This Association cannot but entertain a lively sense of the inestimable benefits which must invariably result from carrying the speculations of that learned man (Pickwick) into a wider field, from extending his travels, and consequently enlarging his sphere of observation, to the advancement of knowledge and the diffusion of learning.

That Samuel Pickwick, Tracy Tupman, Augustus Snodgrass and Nathaniel Winkle are hereby nominated and appointed members of the Corresponding Society of the Pickwick Club and that they be requested to forward, from time to time, authenticated accounts of their journeys and investigations, of their observations of character and manners, and of the whole of their adventures, together with all tales and papers to which local scenery or associations may give rise to the Pickwick Club, stationed in London.

That this Association cordially recognizes the principle of every member of the Corresponding Society defraying his own travelling expenses, and that it sees no objection whatever to the members of the said Society pursuing their inquiries for any length of time they please, upon the same terms.”

“In this strain, with an occasional glass of ale, when the coach changed horses, until they reached Rochester Bridge, by which time the notebooks both of Pickwick and Snodgrass were completely filled with selections from his adventures.

Magnificent ruin!“, said Snodgrass, with all the poetic fervour that distinguished him, when they came in sight of the fine old castle.

What a study for an antiquarian!” were the very words which fell from Pickwick’s mouth as he applied his telescope to his eye.

Ah! Fine place, glorious pile, frowning walls, tottering arches, dark nooks, crumbling staircases.“, said the stranger.

Above: Rochester Castle, from across the Medway River, Kent, England

Old cathedral too, earthy smell, pilgrims’ feet worn away the old steps, little Saxon doors, confessionals like money-takers’ boxes at theatres.

Queer customers those monks, Popes and Lord Treasurers and all sorts of old fellows with great red faces and broken noses turning up every day, leather coats and guns.

Tombs, fine place, old legends too, strange stories, capital.“, said the stranger.”

Above: Rochester Cathedral, Kent, England

“We do not find, from a careful perusal of Pickwick’s notes on the four towns Strood, Rochester, Chatham and Brompton, that his impressions of their appearance differ in any material point from those of other travellers who have gone over the same ground.

His general description is easily abridged:

The principal production of these towns appear to be soldiers, sailors, Jews, chalk, shrimps, officers and dockyard men.

The commodities chiefly exposed for sale in the public streets are marine supplies, baked goods, apples, flatfish and oysters.

The streets present a lively and animated appearance, occasioned chiefly by the conviviality of the military.

It is truly delightful to the philanthropic mind to see these gallant men staggering along under the influence of an overflow, both of animal and ardent spirits.

More especially when we remember that the following them about and jesting with them affords a cheap and innocent amusement for the boy population.

Nothing can exceed their good humour.

It was but the day before my arrival that one of them had been most grossly insulted in a pub.

The barmaid had positively refused to draw him any more liquor.

In return for which he had (merely in playfulness) drawn his bayonet and wounded the girl in the shoulder.

And yet this fine fellow was the very first to go down to the pub next morning and express his readiness to overlook the matter and forget what had occurred.

The consumption of tobacco in these towns must be very great and the smell which pervades the streets must be exceedingly delicious to those who are extremely fond of smoking.

A superficial traveller might object to the dirt which is their leading characteristic, but to those who view it as an indication of traffic and commercial prosperity it is truly gratifying.

Above: High Street, Strood, Kent, England

Above: High Street, Rochester, Kent, England

Above: Chatham, Kent, England

Above: Prospect Row, Brompton, Kent, England

Thus we are introduced to Rochester, after an unpleasant confrontation with a coachman in London.

Above: Eastgate House, Rochester, Kent

My mind therefore leaps to the notion of finding in London Goswell Street where Pickwick is said to have resided and the coach stand in St. Martin’s le Grand and the Golden Cross where Pickwick met his travelling companions Tupman, Snodgrass and Winkle and where the quartet were assaulted by the paranoid cabby Sam.

Above: St. Martin’s Le Grand looking south, London, England, 1829

I find myself wondering how far it is to Rochester from London (30 miles/50 km), whether there are walking trails between London and Rochester (10.5 to 11 hours walking distance), and whether any discernible traces of the 19th century of Pickwick can still be seen by the 21st century traveller.

My walking is of two kinds: one, straight on end to a definite goal at a round pace; one, objectless, loitering, and purely vagabond.

In the latter state, no gipsy on Earth is a greater vagabond than myself.

It is so natural to me, and strong with me, that I think I must be the descendant, at no great distance, of some irreclaimable tramp.

So much of my travelling is done on foot, that if I cherished betting propensities, I should probably be found registered in sporting newspapers under some such title as the Elastic Novice, challenging all eleven stone mankind to competition in walking.

My last special feat was turning out of bed at two, after a hard day, pedestrian and otherwise, and walking thirty miles into the country to breakfast.

Charles Dickens, The Uncommercial Traveller

Charles Dickens was a prodigious walker.

Whether on his night walks through London, or tramping through the Kent countryside, Dickens clocked up a huge number of miles on foot.

He is estimated to have walked 12 miles per day.

Dickens maintained this in all kinds of weather.

Dickens understood his passion for walking to be prodigious.

Dickens mostly walked alone.

He did so because walking time was thinking time, or perhaps more accurately dreaming time.

Whether walking purposefully or in vagabond style, as he classifies his walking habits in The Uncommercial Traveller, Dickens proceeded in a reverie, acutely attuned to the significance of his surroundings.

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

G.K. Chesterton, in Charles Dickens: A Critical Study (1906), makes this remarkable judgment of the connection between Dickens’ writing and walking:

Herein is the whole secret of that eerie realism with which Dickens could always vitalize some dark or dull corner of London.

There are details in the Dickens descriptions — a window, or a railing, or the keyhole of a door — which he endows with demoniac life.

The things seem more actual than things really are.

Indeed, that degree of realism does not exist in reality:

It is the unbearable realism of a dream.

And this kind of realism can only be gained by walking dreamily in a place.

It cannot be gained by walking observantly.

It takes some sort of critical genius to understand Dickens’ walking not to be observant in the conventional sense, but an act of dreaming.

He walked not to see things but to get the sense of them.

I am both a town traveller and a country traveller, and am always on the road.”, he writes in The Uncommercial Traveller, his series of essays linked by the idea of walking.

There is the sense of Dickens having always to walk, so that he was travelling in his mind wherever he might be, and being released into the act of walking became a necessary expression of his mind’s direction.

Walk from Higham a couple of miles north to St Mary’s Church, Dickens’ parish church.

Above: Gads Hill Place, Higham, Kent, England – Charles Dickens’ final home (1856 – 1870)

The road gives up at this point.

Proceed across fields, along little-used railways lines and past water-filled gravel pits, past Cliffe and onwards to Cooling.

Cooling is a small strip of a village with the ruins of a privately-owned castle and St. James Church, a favourite Dickens picnic location.

It is an ancient, disused (but handsomely maintained) church with a 13th century font and some 14th century pews.

But its most famous feature is found in the graveyard – 13 gravestones of the children of two families, known now as ‘Pip’s graves’.

In Great Expectations, Pip describes seeing:

… five little stone lozenges, each about a foot and a half long, which were arranged in a neat row beside their grave, and were sacred to the memory of five little brothers of mine — who gave up trying to get a living, exceedingly early in that universal struggle …

Famously Dickens reduced the number from thirteen to five, so as not to stretch the credibility of his readers too far.

But the 13 gravestones are there in a row, even if they do derive from two families rather than one.

The names are no longer legible, but they are of the Baker and Comport families, none of whom lived beyond the age of 17 months, having died between 1771 and 1779.

They may all have died of malaria (ague), no great surprise in a marshland area.

One can readily imagine the scene in the greys of winter with a sharp wind coming in off the North Sea to feel that overpowering sense of time, place and consequence – “the unbearable realism of a dream” – that is the cornerstone of Dickens’ art.

Above: The 13 children’s gravestones at St James Church, Cooling, Kent, England – inspiration for the opening scene of Great Expectations

To be at St James Church is to feel that you are on the edge of Nowhere.

Though there were signs of human habitation, there are no humans.

No one but yourself.

The church pays witness to lives lived on the margin, people whose lives came and went unnoticed.

It is a place of minimal expectations.

Yet those lives went on, and there is a powerful sense of a life on the margins being a life for all that, something which imbues the UK’s many used and disused (or redundant) churches, which makes their continued preservation so important.

It is not the chancels, naves and pews that matter, though they have their value.

It is the lives past that revolved around such buildings that are important.

They make things more actual than things really are.

They turn plain reality into reverie and connect our lives to stories – such as Pip’s.

Something of this Charles Dickens saw in Cooling, as he walked by, paused awhile, and then walked on.

Above: St. James Church, Cooling, Kent, England

Wikipedia informs me that Rochester is at the lowest bridging point of the River Medway, that Rochester was for many years a favourite of Charles Dickens (who owned nearby Gads Hill Place) basing his novels (The Pickwick Papers, Great Expectations, The Mystery of Edwin Drood) here, that the Diocese of Rochester is the second oldest in England, that King’s School is the second oldest continuously running school in the world, and that Rochester Castle has one of the best preserved keeps to be found in either England or France.

Above: Medway River, Rochester Bridge, Rochester, Kent, England

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Rochester

Above: King’s School, Rochester, Kent, England

Above: Rochester Castle, Rochester, Kent, England

Rochester was sacked at least twice and besieged on another occasion.

Rochester has produced two martyrs:

  • John Fisher (1469 – 1535), executed by King Henry VIII for refusing to sanction divorce from Queen Catherine of Aragon
  • Nicholas Ridley (1500 – 1555), executed by Queen Mary for being Protestant

Above: John Fisher

Above: King Henry VIII of England (1491 – 1547)

Above: Catherine of Aragon (1485 – 1536)

Above: Nicholas Ridley

Above: Queen Mary of England (1516 – 1588)

Rochester has for centuries been of great strategic importance through its position near the confluence of the Thames and the Medway.

During the First World War (1914 – 1918) the Short Brothers’ aircraft manufacturing company developed the first plane to launch a torpedo, the Short Admirality Type 184, at its seaplane factory on the River Medway not far from Rochester Castle.

In the intervening period between the World Wars, Short Brothers established a worldwide reputation as a constructor of flying boats.

During the Second World War (1939 – 1945), Short Brothers also designed and manufactured the first four-engined bomber, the Stirling.

Above: Statue of the Short Brothers – Oswald (1883 – 1969), Horace (1872 – 1917) and Eustace (1875-1932), Musswell Manor, Isle of Shippey, England

Britain’s decline in naval power and shipbuilding competitiveness led to the government decommissioning the nearby Royal Navy Shipyard at Chatham in 1984, which led to the subsequent demise of much local maritime industry.

Rochester and its neighbouring communities were hit hard by this and have experienced a painful adjustment to a post-industrial economy, with much social deprivation and unemployment resulting.

On the closure of Chatham Dockyard the area experienced an unprecedented surge in unemployment.

Above: Chatham Dockyard, 1830

Since 1980 the city has seen the revival of the historic Rochester Jack-in-the-Green May Day (1 May) dancing chimney sweeps tradition, which had died out in the early 1900s.

Above: Sweeps Dance, Rochester, Kent, 2006

Though not unique to Rochester (similar sweeps’ gatherings were held across southern England, notably in Bristol, Deptford, Whitstable and Hastings), its revival was directly inspired by Dickens’ description of the celebration in Sketches by Boz.

The festival has since grown from a small gathering of local Morris dance sides to one of the largest in the world. 

The festival begins with the “Awakening of Jack-in-the-Green” ceremony and continues in Rochester High Street over the May Bank Holiday weekend.

Above: Jack in the Green, Kingston, England

Jack in the Green, also known as Jack o’ the Green, is an English folk custom associated with the celebration of May Day (1 May).

It involves a pyramidal or conical wicker or wooden framework that is decorated with foliage being worn by a person as part of a procession, often accompanied by musicians.

The Jack in the Green tradition developed in England during the 18th century.

It emerged from an older May Day tradition — first recorded in the 17th century — in which milkmaids carried milk pails that had been decorated with flowers and other objects as part of a procession.

Increasingly, the decorated milk pails were replaced with decorated pyramids of objects worn on the head.

By the latter half of the 18th century the tradition had been adopted by other professional groups, such as bunters and chimney sweeps.

The earliest known account of a Jack in the Green came from a description of a London May Day procession in 1770.

By the 19th century, the Jack in the Green tradition was largely associated with chimney sweeps.

The tradition died out in the early 20th century.

Later that century, various revivalist groups emerged, continuing the practice of Jack in the Green May Day processions in various parts of England.

The Jack in the Green has also been incorporated into various modern Pagan parades and activities.

The Jack in the Green tradition has attracted the interest of folklorists and historians since the early 20th century.

 

Above: Jack in the Green procession, Hastings, England

There are numerous other festivals in Rochester apart from the Sweeps Festival.

The association with Dickens is the theme for Rochester’s two Dickens Festivals held annually in June and December. 

Above: Dickens Festival, Rochester, Kent, England

The Medway Fuse Festival usually arranges performances in Rochester.

Above: Medway Fuse Festival, Rochester, Kent, England

The latest festival to take shape is the Rochester Literature Festival, the brainchild of three local writers.

A Huguenot Museum was opened in Rochester on 13 May 2015.

The 1959 Ian Fleming novel Goldfinger describes James Bond driving along the A2 through the Medway towns from Strood to Chatham.

Of interest is the mention of “inevitable traffic jams” on the Strood side of Rochester Bridge, the novel being written some years prior to the construction of the M2 motorway Medway bypass.

Rochester is the setting of the controversial 1965 Peter Watkins TV film The War Game, which depicts the town’s destruction by a nuclear missile.

The 2011 adventure film Ironclad is loosely based upon the 1215 siege of Rochester Castle.

A scene in the 2001 film Last Orders, starring Bob Hoskins and Tom Courtenay, was filmed in Rochester High Street.

As I have only progressed in The Pickwick Papers as far as the end of Chapter 2, I will not burden you, my gentle readers, any further in describing the itinerary of the Pickwickians at this time.

Suffice to say that my reading prompts my explorations and my explorations prompt my reading.

Case in point are my travels with my wife to Mürren, Switzerland in January 2022.

Above: Mürren, Switzerland

Landschlacht to Mürren, Switzerland, Wednesday 6 January 2022

The travel discussions between the wife and I are far less formal than those of the Pickwick Club.

I mention places I would like to visit and eventually we visit them.

We had planned to visit Piz Gloria the previous May, but I stumbled and fell down in a St. Gallen street two weeks prior to our planned visit shattering my left wrist and right elbow.

The trip was postponed.

Finally we set off this day from our apartment building in Landschlacht.

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Charles Dickens, Preface to The Pickwick Papers

“The author’s object in this work was to place before the reader a constant succession of characters and incidents, to paint them in as vivid colours as he could command and to render them at the same time lifelike and amusing.

It is obvious that in a work published with a view to such considerations, no artfully interwoven or ingeniously complicated plot can with reason be expected.

The author ventures a hope that he has successfully surmounted the difficulties of his undertaking.

If it be objected that The Pickwick Papers are a mere series of adventures in which the scenes are ever changing and the characters come and go like the men and women we encounter in the real world, he can only content himself with reflection that they claim to be nothing else.

The same objections have been made to the works of some of the greatest novelists in the English language.

The following pages have been written from time to time almost as the periodical occasion arose.

If any of the author’s imperfect descriptions, while they afford amusement in the perusal, should induce one reader to think better of his fellow men and to look upon the brighter and more kindly side of human nature, he would indeed be proud and happy to have led to such a result.

Literature is not behind the ages but rather holds its place and strives to do its duty.”

Imaginative literature, which my blogs are and are not, primarily pleases rather than teaches.

I seek to do both in my writing.

I try to communicate experiences – ones that the reader can have, can share.

We experience things through the exercise of our senses and imagination.

We must act in such a way when reading a story that we let it act upon us.

We must allow it to move us.

We must let it do whatever it wants to do on us.

We must make ourselves open to it.

This is what I value in walking versus any other mode of travel – an awareness of the experience in all its sensory power.

Oh, how I wish that the journey I am about to describe had taken place on foot rather than in an automobile, but time and money tend to dictate most people’s itineraries!

The journey I am about to describe will take longer to show than the actual journey itself took, much like the TV series M.A.S.H. (1972 – 1983) lasted longer than the Korean War (1950 – 1953) it portrayed.

Landschlacht is a bedroom community and most residents of this hamlet of 1,452 souls work in Kreuzlingen, 15 kilometres to the west across from Konstanz, Germany.

Above: Landschlacht / Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Kreuzlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

This was not the case for my wife and during the time before I took up my position as a teacher in Türkiye neither was this the case for me.

Above: Flag of Turkey

My wife is a doctor gainfully and (mostly) happily employed at the nearby Kantonspital (cantonal hospital) in the hamlet of Münsterlingen to the west.

During the decade I was there, I mostly worked as a teacher in the towns of Weinfelden, Romanshorn and Herisau, and in the cities of Konstanz, Kreuzlingen and St. Gallen.

Above: Rathausstrasse, Weinfelden, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Romanshorn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Herisau, Canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Switzerland

Above: St. Gallen, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Landschlacht lies on the shore of the Bodensee (Lake Constance) on the main road between Schaffhausen and Rorschach.

Above: Outline of the Bodensee (Lake Constance), shared between Switzerland, Germany and Austria

Above: Schaffhausen, Canton Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Above: Rorschach, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Landschlacht is a final bus stop for the Konstanz bus lines and a train stop on the Kreuzlingen – Romanshorn line.

Above: Logo of Konstanz buslines

Above: Landschlacht Bahnhof, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The first people settled on the shores of the Bodensee as early as the Neolithic Age, as evidenced by many finds. 

The settlement was first mentioned in 817 as Lanchasalachi

Above: Former tithe house, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Landschlacht was an episcopal fief of Konstanz. 

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Konstanz

In the High Middle Ages, the Bailiwick belonged to the barons of Güttingen and later to other families. 

Above: Güttingen Castle, Güttingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 1413, half of the court rule was sold to Hans Dürrenmüller and ten co-principles of Landschlacht, the other half went to the Petershausen Monastery in 1452 and to the Münsterlingen Monasters in 1486. 

Above: The Benedictine Abbey of Petershausen, Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany, 1627

In 1621, the eleven owner families sold their shares to the Münsterlingen Monastery, where they remained until 1798.

Above: Münsterlingen Monastery, Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Landschlacht always shared the fate of the Parish of Altnau (next town to the east). 

Above: Oberdorf (upper town), Altnau, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The St. Leonhard Chapel, built before 1000, is decorated with Gothic frescoes, the sole site in Landschlacht worth visiting.

Along with the Sylvester Chapel in the Goldbach district of Überlingen, the St. Leonhard Chapel is one of the oldest Romanesque chapels in the Lake Constance area. 

The oldest parts were created before the year 1000 and it has been frescoed since the 11th century.

The Passion cycle (2nd half of the 15th century) and the Leonhard cycle (dated 1432) are particularly well preserved.

The western half of the chapel with the entrance is Romanesque and built of coarse field stones. 

The other half of the chapel is Gothic and was added at the end of the 14th century. 

The chapel is equipped with Gothic tracery windows.

Above: St. Leonhard Chapel, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Interior of St. Leonhard Chapel, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 1855, the three-field system of farming still existed with livestock breeding, fruit growing and viticulture being practiced. 

Above: The three-field system used in medieval agriculture

In 1880, a cheese dairy was built. 

From 1898 the vines were destroyed because of phylloxera infestation (plant lice). 

Above: Unfriendly neighbourhood plant lice

In the 19th and 20th centuries, work was offered by industry and the cantonal hospitals (General and Psychiatric) that have existed since 1840. 

Above: Münsterlingen Monastery, now the cantonal hospital building

From 1961 Landschlacht experienced its first construction boom, a boom that has mostly fizzled.

A town that once had a general store and a post office no longer does.

Of the 1,452 inhabitants of the village of Landschlacht in 2018, 452 or 31.1% were foreign citizens, though I suspect I was its sole Canadian. 

498 (34.3%) were Evangelical Reformed and 456 (31.4%) Roman Catholic.

The latter is the religion of my spouse while I remain unaffiliated to any faith.

Perhaps to both religion’s and my benefit?

Landschlacht being a part of the Municipality of Münsterlingen requires a few words must be said regarding Münsterlingen.

Above: Coat of arms of Münsterlingen

The Municipality has a total of 3,512 inhabitants and is comprised of the communities of Landschlacht, Münsterlingen and Scherzingen.

Above: Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The village centre is on the southern shore of the Bodensee, with the grounds of the Münsterlingen Monastery adjoining to the east.

Above: Münsterlingen Monastery, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

According to legend, the monastery in Münsterlingen was founded around 986 by a sister of Abbot Gregor von Einsiedeln and dedicated to St. Walburga. 

Above: Einsiedeln Monastery, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

Above: Statue of St. Walburga (710 – 779), Contern, Canton Luxembourg, Luxembourg

In 1125, Münsterlingen was first mentioned in a document as Munsterlin

Pope Innocent IV confirmed the Augustinian Rule in 1254.

Above: Pope Innocent IV (né Sinibaldo de Fieschi) (1195 – 1254)

In 1288, the convent was able to buy its way out of the Bailiwick of the Lords of Klingen. 

It extended immunity for the monastic district and began establishing judicial rule over their courts. 

Above: Altenklingen Castle, Wigoltingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 1460, Münsterlingen came under the Kastvogtei of the seven federal towns that governed Thurgau Canton and was henceforth subject to their jurisdiction. 

Above: Structure of the Swiss Confederation in the 18th century

In 1524, the Protestant Reformation took hold. 

Above: German Protestant reformer Martin Luther (1483 – 1546)

In 1549, monastic life was restored by Benedictine nuns from Engelberg Abbey. 

Above: Engelberg Monastery, Canton Obwalden, Switzerland

1618 saw the monastery built as patronage of a reformed church in Scherzingen. 

Above: Reformed Church, Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

By 1716 the monastery had a new convent building and a new monastery church built further inland. 

From 1486 to 1621 Münsterlingen acquired jurisdiction over Landschlacht. 

In 1509, Münsterlingen was contractually part of Thurgau Canton. 

Above: Coat of arms of Canton Thurgau

The monastery retained jurisdiction over Münsterlingen, Landschlacht, Uttwil, Schönenbaumgarten and Belzstadel until 1798.

Above: Uttwil, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Schönenbaumgarten, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Langrickenbach, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

With the secularization of their property on the German side of the Bodensee and a number of bad harvests from 1805 to 1817, the monastery’s economy ran into difficulties.

In 1839, the Canton of Thurgau took over a wing of the building and opened the cantonal hospital in it in 1840. 

In 1848, Thurgau dissolved the monastery. 

In 1849, Doctor Ludwig Binswanger was entrusted with the treatment of the mentally ill. 

Above: Ludwig Binswanger Sr. (1820 – 1880)

In 1894, this department received its own building by the Lake. 

In 1972, after long disputes, the new building of the Münsterlingen Cantonal Hospital, which cost around 70 million Swiss francs, was ready for occupancy. 

On 1 January 1994, the political community of Münsterlingen was formed as part of the Thurgau community reorganization. 

It consists of the two formerly independent local communities of Landschlacht and Scherzingen. 

The new Municipality took its name and coat of arms from the old monastery complex in Münsterlingen.

In 1999, the cantonal hospital and the psychiatric clinic in Münsterlingen were integrated into Spital Thurgau AG. 

In 2005, this provides the Municipality 97% of its jobs.

The clinic and hospital alone employ 877 people. 

Above: Spital Thurgau, Münsterlingen

In the past, wine was cultivated on the surrounding slopes, but today it is mainly farming and pastoralism. 

Founded in 1886, the Rutishauser Winery, which merged with the Fenaco subsidiary DiVino to form Rutishauser-DiVino AG in 2021, achieved sales of almost 40 million francs in 2010 and bottled around three million bottles of wine. 

Above: Rutishauser Winery, Scherzingen, Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 2016, Münsterlingen offered work to 2,290 people (converted to full-time positions). 

Of these, 1.2% worked in agriculture and forestry, 1.8% in industry, commerce and construction, and 97.0% in the service sector.  

The most important employers as aforementioned are the cantonal hospital and the psychiatric clinic.

Above: Logo for Thurgau Wirtschaft und Arbeit (Business and Labour)

(Which kind of lends credibility to the joke that one does not need to be crazy to live here but it really helps if you are.)

In terms of rail transport, Münsterlingen has three stations on the Selllinie (lake line): Münsterlingen-Scherzingen, Münsterlingen Spital and Landschlacht. 

As aforementioned, a bus line connects Münsterlingen to the city bus networks of the nearby cities of Kreuzlingen and Konstanz.

Above: Münsterlingen-Scherzingen Bahnhof, Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Münsterlingen-Spital Bahnhof, Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Münsterlingen Abbey (taken over by the Canton of Thurgau) has a baroque church. 

Above: St. Remigus Church, Münsterlingen Abbey, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

With Hagnau on the other side of the Lake, there is a custom to carry the bust of St. John the Baptist across the frozen lake to the respective partner community during the Seegfrörne (the freezing over).

Above: Bust of St. John the Baptist, Interior of St. Remigus Church, Münsterlingen Abbey, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Since 1963, the last time the Bodensee froze over, the wooden head has remained in the former monastery church of St. Remigius of Münsterlingen.

Above: Record of the years when the Bodensee froze over, Lochau-Hörbranz, Vorarlberg, Austria

Not shown but historically recorded are the years 875, 895, 1074, 1076, 1108, 1217, 1227, 1277, 1323, 1325, 1378, 1379, 1383, 1409, 1431, 1435, 1460, 1465, 1470, 1479, 1512, 1553, 1560, 1564, 1565, 1571, 1573, 1684, 1695 and 1788.

Above: Commemoration of the first crossing, ice procession in 1963 and togetherness at the lake on a boulder in Hagnau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Ice procession of 1830 from Münsterlingen in Switzerland to Hagnau in Germany across the frozen Bodensee (Lake Constance)

Above: Hagnau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Interior of St. John the Baptist Church, Hagnau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

The Kreuzlingen – Romanshorn railway line runs between the village and the Lake. 

Below the railway line in a park area by the Lake are the buildings of the privatized Psychiatric Clinic founded in 1839, formerly the Cantonal Psychiatric Hospital, and the Mansio Foundation. 

Above the tracks, the monastery is the Spital Thurgau. 

Münsterlingen Seeseite” (lakeside) is a euphemism in the local colloquial language for the psychiatric clinic.

The psychiatric institution in Münsterlingen has come under public criticism since 2013 because children from the Catholic children’s home in Fischingen were alleged to have been exposed to illegitimate drug trials there in the early 1970s.

Above: Psychiatrische Klinik Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The Municipality has known more than its fair share of personalities.

No pun intended on the Psychiatric Clinic.

The Municipality has known:

  • Ludwig Binswanger Sr. and Otto Binswanger (psychiatrists)

Otto, the son of Ludwig Binswanger Sr. established an international reputation as a clinician. 

The development of an independent child and adolescent psychiatry goes back to his suggestion. 

In Jena (Switzerland) he worked in an advisory capacity at the sanatorium for children and young people on Sophienhöhe Street. 

In addition to his extensive work, he worked in a field hospital during WW1 as an expert and advisor to the Thuringian army corps. 

Among his more than 100 publications are his probably most important works on epilepsy, neurasthenia and psychiatry as well as his work on hysteria. 

Death overtook him on 15 July 1929 while playing cards.

Above: Otto Binswanger (1852 – 1929)

Above: The card hand purportedly held by US gunfighter Wild Bill Hickok (1837 – 1876) at the time of his death: black aces and eights

Here is a germ of a story idea that reminds me of The Seventh Seal, a 1957 Swedish historical fantasy film written and directed by Ingmar Bergman.

Set in Sweden during the Black Death, it tells of the journey of a medieval knight (Max von Sydow) and a game of chess he plays with the personification of Death (Bengt Ekerot), who has come to take his life.

Bergman developed the film from his own play Wood Painting.

The title refers to a passage from the Book of Revelation, used both at the very start of the film, and again towards the end, beginning with the words:

And when the Lamb had opened the seventh seal, there was silence in Heaven about the space of half an hour“.

Here, the motif of silence refers to the “silence of God“, a major theme of the film.

Above: Death (Bengt Ekerot:1920 – 1971) and Antonius Block (Max von Sydow:1929 – 2020) choose sides for the chess game

I am also reminded of Kenny Roger’s song The Gambler:

The song tells the story of a late-night meeting on a train “bound for nowhere” between the narrator and a man known only as “the gambler“.

The gambler tells the narrator that he can tell he is down on his luck (“out of aces“) by the look in his eyes, and offers him advice in exchange for his last swallow of whisky.

After the gambler takes the drink (and bums a cigarette), he gives the following advice:

You’ve got to know when to hold ’em, know when to fold ’em,

Know when to walk away, know when to run.


You never count your money when you’re sittin’ at the table,

There’ll be time enough for countin’ when the dealin’s done.

The gambler then mentions that the “secret to survivin’ is knowing what to throw away and knowing what to keep” and that “the best you can hope for is to die in your sleep“.

Shortly thereafter, the gambler puts out his cigarette and dies in his sleep;

Somewhere in the darkness, the gambler, he broke even.”

The narrator finds in his final words “an ace that he could keep“.

  • Julia Onken (psychologist / psychotherapist)

Julia Onken first did an apprenticeship as a stationer and then worked as a buyer in a stationery store. 

When her second daughter started kindergarten, she began studying at the Academy for Applied Psychology in Zürich and continued her education in person-centered client-centred psychotherapy and analytical couples therapy. 

After graduation, she worked in prison and probation, as a lecturer in adult education and opened her own psychotherapeutic practice. 

After her divorce she founded the Frauen Seminar Bodensee (FSB) in 1987. 

In 1998 she founded the association Education Fund for Women, which she has been President ever since. 

She has been a writer since 1987.

Her non-fiction books and guidebooks are also available in numerous translations. 

Her daughter Maya Onken is also a writer.

Some titles from the pen of Julia Onken:

  • Fire Sign Woman: A Report on Menopause
  • Borrowed Luck: An Account of Everyday Love
  • Father Men: An Account of the Father-Daughter Relationship and Its Impact on Partnership
  • Mirror Images: Types of men – How women see through them and recognize themselves in the process
  • The Cherries in the Neighbor’s Garden: The causes of cheating and the conditions for staying at home
  • Mistress in Her Own House: Why women lose their self-confidence and how to regain it
  • If You Really Love Me: The most common relationship pitfalls and how to avoid them 
  • Indian Summer. An Account of the Postmenopausal Period
  • Actually Everything Went Wrong: My Way to Happiness 
  • Help, I’m an Emancipated Mother: A Mother and Daughter Argument 
  • On the Day of the White Chrysanthemums: An Account of Love and Jealousy
  • Love Ping Pong: The Relationship Game between Man and Woman (with Mathias Jung)
  • Raven Daughters: Why I still love my mother
  • With the Heart of the Lioness: Why women lose their self-confidence and how to regain it 

Above: Julia Onken

Here again, a number of thoughts, albeit unpopular ones, spring to mind:

I have a suspicion that there are many women who get into psychiatry who are more interested in aiding and understanding themselves rather than a burning zeal to help or understand others, especially the opposite gender.

Why do we use pheromones as an excuse to justify some women’s behaviour?

It seems to me that far too often there are women who lack accountability for their actions and use the excuse of biology and gender to excuse the inexcusable acts that some do.

I am not privy to the details of her failed marriage.

Perhaps her ex was unworthy of her.

But at the same time I am reminded that in over 70% of failed marriages it is the woman who initiates the divorce.

Can all these divorces be solely the fault of men?

  • Peter Stamm and Tabea Steiner (writers)

Peter Stamm was born the son of an accountant and grew up with three siblings in Weinfelden in the Canton of Thurgau. 

Above: Peter Stamm Weg, Weinfelden, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

According to his own statements, he was underchallenged at school and therefore spent a lot of time in his fantasy world from an early age. 

Stamm completed a commercial apprenticeship and worked at times as an accountant. 

Stamm’s first three novels never found a publisher. 

Above: Peter Stamm

Agnes, the fourth novel he began writing when he was 29, was not published until six years later. 

After Stamm studied English at the University of Zürich for six months in 1987 and then lived in New York City for six months, he switched to psychology, with psychopathology and computer science as a minor. 

Above: Logo of the University of Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Images of New York City, USA

He was also an intern worked at various psychiatric clinics. 

He explains his choice of studies because of his interest in literature:

He wanted to find out more about people as a subject of literature. 

Dropping out of psychology studies was a conscious decision to put writing at the center of his life. 

Now his only choice was to write or go back to work as an accountant.

After lengthy stays in New York, Paris and Scandinavia, Peter Stamm settled in Winterthur in 1990. 

Above: Winterthur, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Here he worked primarily as a journalist, which enabled him to publish his texts for the first time. 

Among others, Stamm worked for the Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) (New Zürich Times), the Tages-Anzeiger (Daily Gazette), Weltwoche (World Week) and the satirical magazine Nebelspalter (Fog splitter). 

From 1997 he was a member of the editorial board of the literary magazine Entwürfe (Drafts)

From 1998 to 2003 he lived in Zürich, since then back in Winterthur. 

Above: Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

After the success of his first novel and the publications that followed, his work as a journalist took a back seat to literature, on which he now concentrates. 

Stamm has been a member of the Association of Swiss Authors since 2003.

Peter Stamm is the author of narrative prose, radio and theatre plays. 

Characteristic is his distanced narrative style and his simple style, which consists of short main clauses and almost completely does without decorative adjectives, metaphors or comparisons. 

Stamm himself describes that his style is strongly based on a repeated reduction of what is written. 

The more language recedes into the background, the more real the drawn images become.

In his own words, Stamm writes “about people and about relationships between people”. 

Recurring themes are the diverse possibilities of love relationships, the impossibility of love, distance and closeness, and the relationship between image and reality. 

In his work, the focus is not on the content, but on the way in which something is told. 

That’s why he doesn’t choose original content:

That distracts from the quality of the text.

With his third novel, An einem Tag wie diesem (On a Day Like This), Stamm moved from the Arche publishing house in Zürich to the S. Fischer publishing house in Frankfurt am Main. 

Even before that, unlike most Swiss authors, he sold his books five times more often in Germany than in Switzerland. 

Fellow writer Daniel Arnet explained this with a “Helvetism-free language” and “content that is free of geraniums” and “not federally coded” in its universality. 

Above: Daniel Arnet

A review in the Literary Quartet in 1999, Marcel Reich-Ranicki commented that Stamm’s Blitzreis (Black Ice) collection of stories was one of the most beautiful and important books of the season, while Hellmuth Karasek judged:

This is a narrator who can do a lot because he knows how to omit and concentrate.” 

Above: Title screen shot of Das Literarische Quartett (The Literary Quartet)(2DF)

Above: Marcel Reich-Ranicki (1920 – 2013)

Above: Hellmuth Karasek (1934 – 2015)

More than 150 translations of Peter Stamm’s works have appeared in 40 languages.

The novel Agnes was filmed in 2016 by Johannes Schmid under the same name. 

Storyline: The 41-year-old non-fiction author Walter begins an affair with the much younger and unapproachable student Agnes. 

She persuades him to write a novel about her so that she can find out how her personality affects him. 

Fiction and reality soon become blurred:

Agnes realizes that Walter is beautifying her in the novel and glorifying their relationship. 

Increasingly she behaves as Walter describes her in the story. 

When Agnes becomes pregnant, Walter reacts differently than Agnes hoped so that she breaks up with him. 

After the miscarriage, they initially find each other again. 

When Agnes decides that the novel should end with her suicide, it remains unclear to the viewer whether her death by freezing is just fictitious or also real. 

In the end, Walter is alone again.

Based on the short story Der Lauf der Dinge (The Natural Way of Things) by Peter Stamm, Ulrike Kofler made the feature film Was wir wollten (What We Wanted) (2019).

Storyline: Niklas and Alice are a happy couple who really lack nothing, but they still suffer from their unfulfilled desire to have children. 

Four attempts at artificial insemination using in vitro fertilization have already failed. 

Therefore, the two decide to take a break in Sardinia to rethink their life plans together.

In Sardinia, a lot of things come up that the two had tried to suppress up until now. 

An apparently good-humoured couple from Tyrol (Austria) is moving into the house next door. 

Their two children, the pubescent David and the five-year-old Denise, initially make it difficult for Alice to come to terms with her unfulfilled desire to have children. 

David’s suicide attempt changes Niklas and Alice’s attitude towards the meaning of life and one suspects that they are abandoning their previous plan of life.

My favourite Stamm novel is Weit über das Land (To the Back of Beyond).

Storyline: Happily married with two children and a comfortable home in a Swiss town, Thomas and Astrid enjoy a glass of wine in their garden on a night like any other.

Called back to the house by their son’s cries, Astrid goes inside, expecting her husband to join her in a bit.

But Thomas gets up and, after a brief moment of hesitation, opens the gate and walks out. 

No longer bound by the ties of his everyday life – family, friends, work -Thomas begins a winding trek across the countryside, exposed as never before to the Alpine winter.

At home, Astrid wonders where he is gone, when he will come back, whether he is still alive. 

Following Thomas and Astrid on their separate paths, To the Back of Beyond becomes ultimately a meditation on the limits of freedom and on the craving to be wanted.

There is much in this story that I can relate to – of my own life’s journey and of the journeys of others.

I wonder how Onken would classify this type of man.

Above: Le Penseur (The Thinker), Auguste Rodin Museum, Paris, France

Tabea Steiner grew up on a farm in Altishausen in the Canton of Thurgau. 

Above: Tabea Steiner

Above: Altishausen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

She trained as a primary school teacher and studied German and history at the University of Bern from 2004 to 2016. 

Above: Logo of the University of Bern, Canton Bern, Switzerland

Since 2004, Steiner has been working in the mediation of literature. 

She organizes and moderates readings and is, among other things, the initiator and member of the management board of the Thun Literature Festival, which is organized by the Project Literaare.  

Above: Thun, Canton Bern, Switzerland

In her first novel, Balg (Brat), Steiner tells of a childhood in the country:

Chris and Antonia dream of a family idyll in the country. 

However, the whole thing turns out to be more difficult than expected, since, on the one hand, everyday life with Timon, her child, proves to be more strenuous than expected and, on the other hand, Chris has trouble finding enough work in the country. 

The young couple separates shortly thereafter and from then on Antonia takes care of her son alone. 

It turns out early on that the boy is a problematic child. 

Because in the playgroup he can’t help but bite or bother other children. 

His behavior remains precarious. 

At the same time, Antonia threatens to get lost in the everyday life of the village and cares only half-heartedly for her son. 

No one seems to be able to break through to Timon except Valentin, the current postman and former teacher who once taught Antonia. 

Antonia doesn’t like Valentin and tries to have as little to do with him as there was an incident with Tanja, Valentin’s daughter and Antonia’s best friend. 

The boy often visits Valentin because he has rabbits that Timon likes to take care of. 

Since the situation with the difficult boy is not getting any better and he has now also started smoking, Lydia (Timon’s grandmother) discusses with Konrad (another villager) a possible break for the mother and her son. 

He is to spend a while on a farm. 

He likes it there very much, but Antonia is not satisfied and goes to pick him up against his will. 

The relationship between the two is getting worse and worse. 

Shortly thereafter, Antonia introduces her new boyfriend (Markus). 

Markus and the boy don’t like each other. 

It goes so far that the new lover says he only comes when the lad is gone. 

When the time with Timon doesn’t get any easier, the lovers decide to go on vacation. 

The mother sells Timon’s new bike, which he had longed for, for a new coat. 

In addition, Markus persuades Antonia that he can have her son’s room and that the boy can move in with Lydia. 

This change of residence is intended as an interim solution until the boy has to go into a home. 

When the boy finds out about this decision, he leaves home and spends the night in the abandoned cheese factory. 

Valentin supports him by providing him with food and washing his clothes. 

When the boy returns to the apartment one evening, he happens to meet Markus. 

The two fight. 

Finally, the half-naked boy is dumped at Lydia’s front door. 

In the future he will spend the week at the home and at the weekend he will stay with his grandmother. 

The story ends with a dialogue between Lydia and Valentin. 

They talk about Timon and Valentin offers him a job.

Told chronologically, the 236-page story follows Timon from birth to early teens. 

Flashbacks into the lives of the people around are reproduced piece by piece in the form of memories and thoughts, which never come together to form a complete picture even at the end of the novel. 

The riddle surrounding the dispute between Antonia, or rather Tanja, and Valentin creates a tension that runs through the entire book.

In her review of the novel, Xenia Boyarsky wrote: 

The perspectives are worked out precisely and the relationships between the characters can be felt in detail. 

In the constant alternation of observing and being observed, the inhabitants of the novel appear both sympathetic and unsympathetic at the same time, and the dichotomy of good and evil becomes blurred. 

The reader staggers from one character perspective to the next, always looking for answers, for the why and maybe for improvement.

Tabea Steiner writes mercilessly, directly and without hesitation. 

Every sentence reverberates, makes you pause and at one point or another even put the book aside because what is there seems unbelievable at first glance.“, writes Xenia Bojarski.

Above: Xenia Bojarski

And yet Steiner tells the story with convincing sensitivity and does not turn the inside of the protagonists inside out, as Gallus Frei-Tomic writes in his review of the novel: 

Another quality of this novel are all the half-shadows that are not illuminated, the mere hints that are left to the reader, but which resonate and give the book, the narration, space. 

And last but not least, it is the calm, careful way of storytelling, a language that not only carefully approaches the content, but also in its expression.”

Above: Gallus Frei-Tomic

In the official laudatory speech of the Swiss Book Prize, the writer Monika Steiner praises:

Tabea Steiner manages to control the tension through the dramaturgy, the reader feels the escalating drama without coming up with catastrophes and violent events. 

As a narrator, she keeps her distance, soberly describes the everyday life of the single mother, documents excerpts of village life and the people in Timon’s life. 

From the very first sentence – “The amniotic sac bursts, Chris drives Antonia to the hospital in the small town nearby, twenty-four hours later the birth is initiated.” – you are drawn in by the pull, which is caused by the changing perspectives of the main characters and also the non-conforming perception at times generated by Timon is taken away.

The author tells in an impressive way how a child slips away from everyone.” 

She goes on to say that from beginning to end, no chapters break or stop the narrative flow. 

“Every word is spot on, every selected episode of this sad childhood shows the traces on the child’s soul and the consequences of it in razor-sharp images. 

And nobody, neither the parents, the grandmother with her daughter, the teacher, manages to have a real conversation. 

Therein lies the true art of this harrowing story. 

The novel is a desperately tender book about love and speechlessness. 

It becomes a literary event through the richness of its images and the sovereign intensity of the language treatment.

Above: Monika Steiner

I find myself unsympathetic to Antonia.

She abandons her husband at a time when he needed her emotional support, then neglects her son in search of her own emotional needs.

Her son finds happiness on a farm and she takes him from it against his will.

Her selfishness and thoughtlessness create the broken boy.

The world needs fewer women like Antonia.

I suspect Onken would be more sympathetic to Antonia than I.

  • Timon Altweg and Nils Günther (pianists)

Timon Altwegg has been living in Kreuzlingen, by the Bodensee, since 1992, from where he has a busy concert schedule. 

He has become a sought-after soloist and chamber musician and has been invited to perform in concerts throughout the United States and throughout Europe. 

In the summer of 2001, Timon Altwegg was invited to the Llanca festival in Spain. 

Further concerts with him were broadcast live on Hungarian radio and television as well as on Austrian television (ORF). 

Timon Altwegg also celebrated great successes in South America:

In 2005 and in autumn 2007 he toured through Ecuador, Colombia, Guatemala and El Salvador.

In May 2004, Timon Altwegg was acclaimed by an audience of 1,200 in a historic concert when he became the first foreign soloist to perform with the Iraqi National Symphony Orchestra in Baghdad since 1990. 

Timon Altwegg’s excellent technique is also appreciated by many contemporary composers who entrust him with the world premiere of their works.

Above: Timon Altwegg

As a composer, Nils Günther orients himself towards the doctrine of the phases of change. 

His music is medically therapeutic in the sense that it seeks to bring the listener into a state of balance.

Above: Nils Günther

  • The German cyclist Jan Ullrich once resided here.

Above: Jan Ullrich

Jan Ullrich was born in Rostock as the second child of the concrete worker Werner Ullrich and his wife Marianne, née Kaatz. 

He grew up with two brothers (Stefan and Thomas Ullrich) and a half-brother (Felix Kaatz) in Biestow and Papendorf.

Ullrich’s father first worked in a Rostock record factory and had been stationed in Rostock as a soldier since 1973. 

Marianne Ullrich studied agricultural sciences at the University of Rostock, completed her studies with a thesis on the effects of grain aphids and worked as a waitress in a Biestower inn. 

Ullrich’s parents separated in 1979.

His father founded a new family in Rostock and moved to Bad Schwartau after reunification, but lost contact with his son.

Above: Rostock, Mecklenburg-West Pomerania, Germany

In 1997, Jan Ullrich was the first and only German to win the Tour de France. 

In addition, he was five-time 2nd and once 4th in the Tour, World Amateur Road Race Champion, twice World Individual Time Trial Champion, and winner of the 2000 Olympic Road Race.

Due to his involvement in the Spanish doping scandal Fuentes, he was excluded from the Tour de France 2006 and his contract terminated without notice. 

(The Fuentes doping scandal was a doping scandal in international cycling. 

The eponymous former team doctor of the Liberty Seguros cycling team, Eufemiano Fuentes, had been selling illegal, performance-enhancing drugs to people on the international cycling scene since at least 2003, through an extensive network. 

On 23 May 2006, as part of a raid, Spanish police arrested Fuentes as well as Liberty Seguros’ sporting director Manolo Saiz and medic José Luis Merano. 

They seized large quantities of blood bags and doping substances, as well as a list of code names that were interpreted as cyclist pseudonyms. 

Above: Eufemiano Fuentes

According to the list, the suspected customers included some of the top cyclists of the time, such as Jan Ullrich, Ivan Basso and Francisco Mancebo, as well as over 50 other cyclists. 

The scandal attracted a great deal of media attention when those 58 riders were excluded from participating in the 2006 Tour de France, including eventual two-time Tour winner Alberto Contador. 

In Germany, the investigations by the Bonn public prosecutor’s office against Jan Ullrich and his personal adviser Rudy Pevenage were the focus of media interest.

The Fuentes scandal is the most comprehensive doping affair in cycling history. 

The incidents caused lasting damage to the public image of cycling, especially since many criminal investigations against suspected drivers and officials remained fruitless due to the lack of anti-doping laws and the professional cyclists concerned were able to continue their careers without impairments or after short-term suspensions.

In addition to cyclists, members of other sports, especially track and field athletes and soccer players, have also been linked to the network. 

In December 2010, the affair reached a new high with another 14 arrests, including Marta Dominguez, the vice-president of the Spanish Athletics Federation.)

Above: Marta Dominguez

After years of proceedings, the Court of Arbitration for Sport (CAS) found Ullrich guilty of doping in 2012 and annulled his successes as of 1 May 2005. 

Above: Béthusy Castle, headquarters of the Court of Arbitration for Sport in Lausanne, Canton Vaud, Switzerland

On 26 February 2007, Ullrich declared his active cycling career over.

I have often wondered:

How does a person psychologically come back from such a public shaming?

Ullrich lived in Merdingen, Germany, from 1994 to 2002 with his partner, Gaby Weiss, with whom he had a daughter, Sarah Maria, on 1 July 2003.

Above: Merdingen, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

They moved to Münsterlingen (Scherzingen) in 2002.

Since separating in 2005, allegedly because Weiss’s reluctance to be in the media spotlight conflicted with Ullrich’s celebrity life, Ullrich continued to live in Scherzingen.

Weiss returned with Sarah to Merdingen.

Above: Merdingen town hall with St. Remigius Church in the background

In September 2006, Ullrich married Sara Steinhauser, the sister of his former teammate and training partner, Tobias.

Their first child, Max, was born five weeks prematurely on 7 August 2007.

Their second son, Benno, was born on 25 January 2011.

A third son, Toni, was born on 31 October 2012.

Above: Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

On the evening of 19 May 2014, Ullrich, under the influence of alcohol, caused a serious traffic accident in Mattwil (Canton Thurgau), injuring two people and causing property damage of tens of thousands of Swiss francs. 

Ullrich stated, among other things, that he had “slipped off the brake pedal”.

Ullrich was convicted of drunk driving.

He received a suspended sentence of four years plus a fine of €10,000.

Above: Mattwil, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In August 2016, Ullrich moved with his family from Münsterlingen to Establiments north of the Mallorcan capital Palma.

Personal issues with alcohol and drugs led to his separation from his wife, Sara, at the end of 2017.

She moved back to Germany with their three sons.

On 3 August 2018, Ullrich faced charges in Spain after he broke in and threatened his neighbour, German actor and filmmaker Til Schweiger, in Mallorca.

After the incident, he announced that he would seek therapy and traveled to Germany a few days later for this purpose.

Above: Palma de Mallorca, Balearic Islands, Spain

On 9 August 2018, the police arrested him in the luxury hotel Villa Kennedy in Frankfurt am Main. 

Under the influence of alcohol and drugs, he is said to have “choked an escort until her eyes went black“. 

Above: Villa Kennedy, Frankfurt am Main, Hesse, Germany

After his release from police custody, he was temporarily committed to a psychiatric hospital for an incident. 

On 26 September 2018, a catering worker filed a criminal complaint against Ullrich for bodily harm because he is said to have pressed his thumb on his larynx at Hamburg Airport.

He then went to a rehab clinic.

By June 2019, Ullrich was on the mend. 

According to his own statement, he is “clean”. 

He now lives in Merdingen again and has regular contact with his family.

On 28 August 2019, a German court ordered him to pay a fine of €7,200.

Ullrich featured on a podcast with equally disgraced ex-cyclist Lance Armstrong covering the 2021 UCI Road World Championships, in which Ullrich said that he was fully recovered from his personal difficulties but that he had almost suffered the same fate as Marco Pantani, who died following acute cocaine poisoning in 2004.

Above: Lance Armstrong

Ullrich told Armstrong:

Three years ago I had big problems and then you came to see me.

I was so glad you came, and yes, I was just like Marco Pantani . . . nearly dead.

Above: Italian racing cyclist Marco Pantani (1970 – 2004)

Ullrich’s chances, his abilities and his training status were regularly the subject of lively discussions among journalists, cycling experts and fans over the years of his active cycling career. 

For example, the sports journalist Oskar Beck wrote:

For a short time, the whole of cycling Germany had to fear that he would ruin himself with these escapades – too much cake in winter, ominous pills in the disco, wheel stands that were knocked over and similar mishaps.” 

Above: Oskar Beck

Ullrich was also often accused by critics of not having the toughness, the unconditional will to win or the meticulous preparation for the season.

Eddy Merckx, for example, said :

If Ullrich had grown up in Belgium, he would have won the Tour three times. 

It’s not all in the body.

It’s in the head.

Above: Belgian racing cyclist Eddy Merckx

What is wrong with men?

There is a feeling in the air that men can learn to be happier, better people and that it can be a positive thing to be a man.

Men are not monsters – at least not by choice.

Boys in our society are horrendously under-fathered and are not given the processes or the mentor figures to help their growth into mature men.

With no deep training in healthy masculinity, boys’ bodies get bigger, but they do not have the inner changes to match.

They act out a role – a complete facade which does not work in any of life’s arenas.

Men are not winners.

There are very few happy men.

(Girls, for all the obstacles put in their way, at least grow up with a continuous exposure to women at home, at school and in friendship networks.

From this they learn a communicative style of womanhood that enables them to get close to other women and give and receive support throughout their lives.)

Male friendship networks are awkward and oblique, lacking in emotional intimacy and short term.

Boys and young men never know the inner world of older men, so each makes up an image based on the externals which he then acts out to “prove” he is a man.

Just as a chameleon bases its colour on its surroundings and has no “true” colour, so men often have very little sense of their true selves.

We are lost and unhappy.

The lack of help to grow into a man and the resulting desperate clinging to an “I’m fine” facade has disastrous consequences.

Men are a mess.

The terrible effects on our marriages, fathering abilities, our health and our leadership skills are a matter of public record.

Our marriages fail, our children hate us, we die from stress and on the way we destroy the world.

Women have had to overcome oppression, but men’s difficulties are with isolation.

Women’s enemies are largely in the world around them – a world they have shaped for themselves.

Men’s enemies are often on the inside – in the walls we put around our own hearts.

The enemies, the prisons from which men must escape are loneliness, compulsive competition and lifelong emotional timidity.

Men are a problem to women, but rarely is this intentional.

We are to an even greater degree a problem to ourselves.

Men and women are co-victims in patterns of living and relating that are in drastic need of revision.

The issue I have with some women is their tendency to support one another by blaming men for all their woes without acknowledging that perhaps some of women’s behaviour is also responsible for the damage they do to themselves and their partners.

Women claim that men dominate the world and are demanding equal rights.

I am all for this, but, ladies, equal rights require equal responsibility (along with equal difficulty).

One cannot ask for support and equality simultaneously.

Feminism is about women liberating themselveschanging their perceptions, laws and employment practices.

A man cannot be a feminist any more than a lion can graze on grass.

But you cannot liberate only half the human race.

Any move to change the order of things which does not also address the fact that men are equally lost, trapped and miserable only creates a backlash.

Rather than blaming all men for their woes, women should take accountability for themselves and acknowledge that their perceptions of male and female roles need changing and play an important part in the healing needed between the genders.

Too often there is an expectation that a man must be a woman’s support system emotionally (and often financially) while men are supposed to be emotionally (and financially) strong without the necessary foundations that maturity should have developed.

Happiness is never found in someone else.

Happiness must be developed from within ourselves before we are emotionally capable of loving relationships.

It is easy to condemn men like Ullrich and Armstrong, but we need to go beyond censure and instead seek comprehension and compassion for these unhappy men and their unfortunate decisions.

  • Sabine Wen-Ching Wang (playwright/poet)

Sabine Wen-Ching Wang was born in 1973 to a Swiss mother and a Taiwanese father in Münsterlingen, Thurgau.

She grew up in Appenzell. 

Above: Appenzell, Canton Appenzell Innerrhoden, Switzerland

She studied Sinology and East Asian Art History in Zürich and Taipei.

Above: Images of Taipei, Taiwan

Wang mainly writes theatre and radio plays and poetry. 

She also publishes texts in anthologies and magazines.

Some works penned by Wang:

  • Be crazy (2003)(Theatre play)
  • Late (2004) (Theatre play)
  • The pocket (2005) (Theatre play)
  • This is not a love song (2006) (Theatre play)
  • The green chick (2008) (Theatre play)
  • Corea.(2009) (Theatre play)
  • La Ceremoni(2010) (Theatre play)
  • Dog Dog (2011) (Theatre play)
  • Cosmos Hotel (2000) (Radio play)
  • The Invitation (2009) (Radio play)
  • The Land in Me (2010) (Poetry)
  • The Children’s Room as Terra Incognita (2005) (Essay)

Above: Sabine Wen-Ching Wang

  • Laurens Walter (Austrian actor)

Above: Laurens Walter

In 2001, Laurens Walter stood in front of the camera for the first time for the TV film When Love Is Lost

Walter also played in the feature film Die Österreichische Methode (The Austrian Method) (2006). 

(In this collective project of five young directors, the stories of five women, who are by no means weak, intersect…

24 hours later, some will have survived, some will have not:

Julia suddenly discovers the longing to explore her own abysses. 

A nocturnal odyssey takes her to a ski hall where she wants to explore “the Austrian Method“.

An unwanted guest is sitting with psychologist Roman Fischer and his wife Carmen:

Eva has come to dinner and doesn’t want to leave.

Clara is struggling with the diagnosis of a brain tumor. 

She oscillates desperately between repression and the decision to take her own life.

Singer Maleen tries to break open the deadlocked mechanisms of her love affair with the pianist Sascha with a poisoned ecstasy pill.

Hans and Mona (who is tied to the bed) live an amour fou in which the roles of perpetrator and victim become blurred.

The episodic film is not primarily a film about tiredness. 

It is much more about returning to life through a borderline experience or perhaps arriving at it for the first time. 

It is about the feeling of being in the wrong life and missing out on what is really important. 

Just like when you are diagnosed with a serious illness, you suddenly no longer understand how you could waste your life with all these everyday worries and petty entanglements.)

Above: Flag of Austria (Österreich)

Walter became known to a wider audience through the role of Lars Lehnhoff in the TV series Stromberg.

 

(Stromberg is a German, award-winning comedy TV series named after the central protagonist Bernd Stromberg, around whom the events of the series revolve. 

Stromberg is an adaptation of the British series The Office.

A TV team accompanies the everyday office life of the fictitious Capitol Versicherung AG with the camera. 

The place of action is usually the claims settlement department M-Z, which is headed by Bernd Stromberg. 

Of course, Stromberg wants his team – especially him, as the manager and “dad” of the department – to always be shown from the best side. 

However, he rarely succeeds in putting “his team“, and above all himself, in a good light.)

Above: Christoph Maria Herbst (Bernd Stromberg)

Walter played his first leading role (Dirk) in the feature film Morscholz (2008).

(The film Morscholz does not tell a story, but describes a state, the state of unfulfilled relationships in a family, the struggle for love and life itself.

One of the protagonists is Bernd, who almost despairs of his inner helplessness. 

He watches helplessly as his family slips away from him. 

His wife Fabienne can no longer stand him.

Since Bernd is unable to face his problems, alcohol is often the only way out for him. 

The deaf-mute Flipper is no less his victim.

Bernd’s sister Gertrud works with a pinball machine in a beverage store. 

From time to time Flipper comes to her house. 

Since Gertrud lives alone and is lonely, she carefully tries to approach Flipper.

Nephew Dirk can’t stand the boredom of the village and shows Michel, the son of Fabienne and Bernd, how best to kill wasps.

During one of the nightly senseless binges in the party room, the situation escalates:

Dirk goes nuts and threatens Bernd with a gun.)

In 2017, Walter played the role of Commissioner Fischer in the film drama Aus dem Nichts (In the Fade).

(Aus dem Nichts is a film by Fatih Akin, inspired by the 2004 nail bomb attack in Köln (Cologne) by the National Socialist Underground (NSU) (neo-Nazis) terrorist cell. 

On 9 June 2004, a nail bomb detonated in Köln, in a business area popular with immigrants from Turkey.

Twenty-two people were wounded, with four sustaining serious injuries.

A barber shop was destroyed.

Many shops and numerous parked cars were seriously damaged by the explosion and by the nails added to the bomb for extra damage.

Authorities initially excluded the possibility of a terrorist attack.

The bomb, which contained more than 800 nails, was hidden in a travel compartment on a bicycle left in front of the barber shop.

Above: Keupstrasse, Köln, Germany – where the 2004 nail bombing occurred

In November 2011, after having been accused by authorities of being responsible for a robbery in Eisenach, the neo-Nazi terrorist group National Socialist Underground (Nationalsozialistischer Untergrund) released a video claiming responsibility for the Köln bombing.

The National Socialist Underground (NSU) was a neo-Nazi terrorist organization in Germany formed around 1999 to murder people with a migrant background for racist and xenophobic motives. 

The three main perpetrators Uwe Mundlos (1973 – 2011), Uwe Böhnhardt (1977 – 2011) and Beate Zschäpe came from Jena (East Thuringia) and lived in hiding in Chemnitz and Zwickau (Saxony) from 1998. 

From 2000 to 2007, they murdered nine migrants and policewoman Michèle Kiesewetter (1984 – 2007), committed 43 murder attempts, three bomb attacks – Nuremberg (Bavaria)(1999) and Köln (Cologne) (North Rhine-Westphalia) (2001 / 2004) and 15 robberies. 

The focus of Auf dem Nichts is on a woman who loses her German-Kurdish husband and son in a bomb attack. 

When the right-wing extremist pair of perpetrators is acquitted by the court due to a lack of evidence, she looks for the perpetrators in order to take vigilante justice.

In preparation for this film, Akin drove to München (Munich) three times to follow the trial of Beate Zschäpe. 

Above: Beate Zschäpe

Dealing with the victims of the right-wing extremist terror group at the trials was the trigger for him to make the film.

Akin had also inherited the dialogues in court, the silence of the prosecutor, and the indifferent coldness of the accused. 

Akin says:

The scandal was not that German neo-Nazis had killed ten people. 

The real scandal was that the German police, society and the media were all convinced that the perpetrators must be Turks or Kurds, that some mafia was behind it.

Regarding the inner conflict of his protagonist Katja, Akin says:

There is a state judiciary and there is an individual sense of justice. 

And sometimes the two clash. 

The film is also about this clash.” )

Above: German filmmaker Fatih Akin

This list of Münsterlingen personalities is, of course, not complete.

Above: Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 20 November 2022

It is with a sense of irony that I write about Aus dem Nichts:

On Sunday 13 November 2022, an explosion occurred on Istiklal Avenue (an 1.4 kilometre / 0.87 mile pedestrian street and one of the most famous avenues in Istanbul) in the Beyoğlu district – a district on the European side of Istanbul, separated from the old city by the Golden Horn of Istanbul (a major urban waterway and the primary inlet of the Bosphorus) – at 1620 hours local time.

Six people were killed and 81 others were injured.

The city had already been targeted by terrorist attacks in 2015 and 2016 by the Islamic State (Daesh) and militants associated with the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK).

A Daesh suicide bombing in the same area killed four people in 2016.

Above: Flag of the Islamic State

No group has claimed responsibility, but Turkish authorities suspect Kurdish separatists to be behind the attack, notably the PKK and the Syrian Kurdish Democratic Union Party (PYD).

Above: Flag of the PKK

The PKK disclaimed any responsibility.

Above: Logo of the PYD

Turkiye’s Interior Minister, Suleyman Soylu, announced the arrest of the bomber and 46 others.

Above: Süleyman Soylu, Turkish Minister of the Interior

Istiklal Avenue is a popular tourist area and one of the main roads leading to Taksim Square. 

Above: Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul, Turkey

The bomb went off in front of a shopping store.

At the time of the blast, the area was more crowded than normal, as a football club was to play nearby.

Above: Turkish police and explosives experts work the scene of the explosion.

According to Turkish news portal Oda TV, the explosion was caused by an improvised explosive device containing TNT.

 

The blast caused windows to break and images circulating on social media showed people bleeding. 

Firefighters and ambulances rushed to the scene. 

The police set up a perimeter around the scene around the bombing site and banned people from coming to İstiklal Avenue and Taksim Square.

Above: Police officers secure the area after the explosion.

Istanbul’s Chief Public Prosecutors Office quickly opened an investigation after the attack.

At least eight prosecutors have been assigned to the case. 

Justice Minister Bekir Bozdağ said a woman was filmed sitting on a bench for about 40 minutes and that she left shortly before the blast.

Above: Bekir Bozdağ, Turkish Justice Minister

President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan condemned the attack.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

The Governor of Istanbul Ali Yurlikaya reported that he was convinced that it was a terrorist attack.

Above: Ali Yerikaya, Governor of Istanbul

The next day, the Minister of the Interior Süleyman Soylu formally accused the PKK of being behind the attack and announced the arrests of the bomber and 21 others.

Soylu argued that the attack was carried out by the PKK in retaliation for the Turkish invasion of northeastern Syria and criticized the US for its support of the Kurdish People’s Defense Units (YPG) in northeastern Syria.

He had previously blamed the US for an armed attack against a police station in southern Turkey in September and had said that the US had funded the Syrian Kurdish Democratic Union Party (PYD) up to $2 billion since 2019.

Above: Flag of Syria

After the main suspect in the attack, Ahlam Albashir, a Syrian national, was arrested, the Turkish police claimed that she confirmed her affiliation with PKK and YPG, and that she had been trained by them as a special intelligence officer in Syria, entering Turkey through Afrin (northern Syria).

Ahlam Albashir has been working at a textile workshop with several female workers.

Some of them were also detained. 

It was reported that two human traffickers who are suspected to have been trying to bring the suspect to Bulgaria were also detained.

Above: Ahlam Albashir

Jiyan Tosun, a lawyer and member of the Human Rights Association, was accused by Adem Taşkaya, a politician of the far-right Victory Party, of having planted the bomb by order of the PKK.

Above: Logo of the Turkish Human Rights Association (İnsan Hakları Derneği)

Above: Adem Taşkaya

Above: Logo of the Victory Party

Following this she was threatened repeatedly and preferred to stay at a courthouse instead of returning home.

Above: Jiyan Tosun

Around an hour after the explosion took place, a broadcast ban was issued by the Istanbul Criminal Court for all visual and audio news and social networking sites related to the incident.

Only interviews with government officials are allowed to be reported.

Above: Palace of Justice, Istanbul, Turkey

CNN Türk and TRT then stopped reporting on the incident.

Above: Logo of the Turkish Radio and Television Corporation

Internet feeds throughout Turkey and access to social media platforms, such as Twitter, Instagram and YouTube, have been significantly decreased since the event.

Istanbul’s anti-terrorist office decided to suspend the rights of defense of suspects but also of Internet users who have shared “negative information” about the attack on social networks.

Above: Logo of US social media network Twitter

Ekrem İmamoğlu, the Mayor of Istanbul, inspected the bombing site.

Above: Mayor of Istanbul Ekrem İmamoğlu

Ekrem İmamoğlu is a Turkish businessman, building contractor and centre-left politician serving as the 32nd Mayor of Istanbul.

He was first elected with 4.1 million votes and won with a margin of 13,000 votes against his Justice and Development Party (AKP) opponent in the March 2019 mayoral election as the joint Nation Alliance candidate of the Republican People’s Party (CHP) and the IYI (Good) Party, but served only from 17 April until 6 May 2019, when the election was annulled.

He was then reelected in a renewed election on 23 June 2019 by an even larger margin of 800,000 votes.

He had previously been the Mayor of Beylikdüzü, a western district of Istanbul, between 2014 and 2019.

İmamoğlu emerged as a dark horse candidate to be the Nation Alliance’s joint candidate for Istanbul Mayor, overtaking more prominent contenders, such as Muharrem Ince, the CHP’s 2018 presidential candidate.

On the eve of the elections, İmamoğlu gained a narrow lead in the mayoral race, with initial results showing his lead to be around 23,000 votes.

His lead was eventually cut to 13,729 after a series of recounts backed by the government.

İmamoğlu was sworn in as Mayor of Istanbul on 17 April, following the conclusion of all recounts.

On 6 May 2019, the Supreme Electoral Council convened and voted to annul the results of the mayoral election.

Members of the Council accepted the AKP’s objection to the local election results in Istanbul, with seven members of the High Court voting in favour of calling a new election and four against.

The election board also cancelled İmamoğlu’s mayoral certificate until the renewed elections.

A new election took place on 23 June 2019 in which İmamoğlu was re-elected as the Mayor by a margin of approximately 800,000 votes.

He was sworn into office on 27 June 2019.

Because of the scale of his victory and popularity, he has been called a possible candidate for the Turkish presidency in the next elections.

Above: Istanbul, Turkey

Health Minister Fahrettin Koca said the victims were being treated in the hospitals nearby.

Above: Fahrettin Koca, Turkish Health Minister

Many political leaders expressed their condolences to the media, also setting forth that the event was a case of terrorism. 

Above: People hug at the scene of the explosion.

President Erdoğan released a statement, stating:

After the treacherous attack, our members of the police went to the scene, and our wounded were sent to the surrounding hospitals.

Efforts to take over Turkey and the Turkish nation through terrorism will reach their goal neither today nor in the future, the same way they failed yesterday.

Above: Flag of the President of Turkey –

The 16 stars represent 16 claimed historical Turkic empires.

It was designed in 1922 and adopted in 1925.

The leader of the Republican People’s Party (CHP) (Cumhuriyet Halk Partisi) Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu said immediately after the attack :

We must unite against all forms of terrorism.

We must raise a common voice against all forms of terrorism and we must condemn terrorism.

No matter where the terror comes from, whatever its source, 85 million people living in this country must be saying the same thing.

They must curse terrorism, those who commit it and those who support it.

When we do this, we will have a unity of heart, it will be better for us to embrace each other.

Above: Logo of the Cumhuriyet Halk Partisi

Above: Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu

The chairwoman of the Good Party (İYİ) Meral Akşener condemned the attack, stating:

“I strongly condemn this vile attack.

We would like those responsible to be caught as soon as possible.”

Above: Logo of the Good Party

Above: Meral Akşener

The Kurdish People’s Democratic Party (HDP) (Halkların Demokratik Partisi) expressed its “deep sorrow and grief over the explosion that has killed six of our fellow citizens and injured 81 others“, adding that:

Our grief and sorrow is great.

We wish God’s mercy to the citizens who lost their lives.”

The attack was also condemned by the imprisoned former chairman of the HDP Selahattin Demirtas.

Above: Logo of the People’s Democratic Party (Halkların Demokratik Partisi)

Above: Selahattin Demirtaş

(Demirtaş was the presidential candidate of the HDP in the 2014 presidential election, coming in 3rd place.

He led the HDP to gather 13.1% at the June 2015 parliamentary elections and 10.7% in the snap elections in November 2015, coming 4th in each election.

He has been imprisoned since 4 November 2016 and despite his imprisonment the HDP fielded Demirtaş as its candidate for the 2018 presidential elections, running his campaign from prison.

In a judgement given in December 2020, the European Court for Human Rights judged that, given “the timing of Demirtaş continued detention (coinciding with an important constitutional referendum and the presidential election)” and Turkey’s “systemic trend of “gagging” dissenting voices“, Demirtaş’s continued pre-trial detention’s political purpose had been “predominant“.

The criminal indictment against Demirtaş alleged that in a public statement on the 6 October, the HDP raised support for protests against claimed approach of the Turkish Government shows towards the Islamic State (IS) 13 September 2014 attack on Kobane (northern Syria).

Above: Kobani, Syria

The HDP was blamed for the Kobani protests (large-scale rallies by pro-YPG protestors in Turkey) in 2014, which resulted in the death of over 50 people despite the HDP having called for an investigation on the events leading to the deaths in Parliament, which was turned down by the incumbent Justice and Development Party (AKP) and the Nationalist Movement Party (MHP).

Above: Logo of the Justice and Development Party (Adalet ve Kalkınma Partisi)

Above: Logo of the Nationalist Movement Party (Milliyetçi Hareket Partisi)

President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan blamed Demirtaş for provoking protests, and said that all Kurdish people are the citizens of the Republic of Turkey and no one can attempt to build a state for them.

Demirtaş’s repeatedly stated opposition to both PKK and TSK violence, calling killed Turkish soldiers “the children of this country, our children“, and declaring:

No one has anything to win from a civil war in Turkey.

Just look at Syria and Iraq.” 

Above: Military situation in September 2021

(pink) Syrian Arab Republic / (orange) Syrian Arab Republic and Rojava / (yellow) Rojava / (green) Syrian Interim Government and Turkish occupation / (white) Syrian Salvation Government / (blue) Revolutionary Commando Army and American occupation / (purple) Opposition groups in reconciliation / (grey) Islamic State

Above: Flag of Iraq

Demirtaş’ prosecution also used wiretaps as evidence to show relation with the Democratic Society Congress (DTK), which the prosecution views as a part of the PKK.

Above: Logo of the Democratic Society Congress (Demokratik Toplum Kongresi / Kongreya Civaka Demokratîk)

Since 4 November 2016 he is detained in prison in Edirne, a Turkish border town near Greece and Bulgaria, far away from Diyarbakir in southeastern Turkey, where his family lives.

His wife visits him once a week.

Above: Selimiye Mosque and statue of its architect Mimar Koca Sinan, Edirne, Turkey

His cellmate was for years fellow HDP politician Abdullah Zeydan who was released in January 2022.

Above: Abdullah Zeydan

In March 2022, the arrested mayor of Diyarbakir Adnan Selçuk Mızraklı became his new cellmate.)

Above: Adnan Selçuk Mizrakli

The Turkish Football Federation (TFF) announced that the Süper Lig match at Vodafone Park between Beşiktaş and Antalyaspor was postponed due to the bombing.

Several football clubs offered their condolences.

Above: Turkish Football Federation crest

Above: Vodafone Park, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, Turkey

Above: Beşiktaş logo

A suspect is in custody related to an explosion that killed at least six people and injured at least 81 others in Istanbul on Sunday, Turkey’s Interior Ministry said early Monday.

Above: Members of a forensic team work at the bomb site.

The incident has been deemed a terrorist attack, Turkish Vice President Fuat Oktay said, according to state news agency Anadolu.

We consider it to be a terrorist act as a result of an attacker, whom we consider to be a woman, detonating the bomb.”, Oktay told reporters.

Above: Turkish Vice-President Fuat Oktay

Turkish officials believe Kurdish separatists from the Kurdistan Worker’s Party (PKK) and the Democratic Union Party (PYD) were most likely behind the deadly suspected bomb attack, the country’s Interior Minister, Suleyman Soylu, told reporters Monday.

It is PKK/PYD terrorist organization according to our preliminary findings.”, Soylu said in a press conference at the scene of Sunday’s attack on Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul.

Soylu did not elaborate or provide details of how investigators had reached this conclusion.

A little while ago the person who left the bomb was taken under custody by teams of Istanbul Police Department.

Before their arrest 21 more people were also taken under custody,” the Minister said.

The face of terrorism is bitter, but we will continue this struggle to the end, whatever the cost is.

Above: Turkish Interior Minister Suleyman Soylu

CCTV footage shows a woman sitting on a bench for more than 40 minutes and then getting up one or two minutes before the explosion, leaving a bag or plastic bag behind, according to Turkish Justice Minister Bekir Bozdağ.

Above: Turkish Justice Minister Bekir Bozdağ

Bozdağ, who made the comments in an interview with privately owned A Haber news channel, said Turkish security forces believe the woman is the suspect.

Officials are investigating her.

There are two possibilities.

Either that bag or plastic bag has a mechanism in it, it explodes on its own or someone detonates it from afar.

All of these are currently under investigation.” he added.

The name of the woman is unknown.”, he said.

All the recordings and data about the woman are being analyzed.

Istanbul Governor Ali Yerlikaya said.

We wish God’s mercy on those who lost their lives and a speedy recovery to the injured.”

Above: Istanbul provincial governor Ali Yerikaya

The six people killed include Yusuf Meydan, a member of Turkey’s Ministry of Family and Social Services, and his daughter Ecrin, according to Derya Yanık, the Minister of the agency.

Above: Yusuf Meydan and daughter Ecran

Soylu, the Interior Minister, said Monday that 50 of the 81 people injured have been discharged from the hospital, with 31 people still being treated.

Turkey’s conflict with Kurdish separatist groups has spanned four decades and claimed tens of thousands of lives.

The PKK has been designated a terrorist organization by Turkey, the United States and the European Union.

Above: Flag of Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK)

In particular, the insincerity of our so-called allies who seem friendly to us, who either hide terrorists in their own country, or feeds terrorists in the areas they occupy and send them money from their own senates, is obvious.”, Soylu said.

We will give them a response in the near future, to those who caused us this pain in Beyoglu Istiklal Street so they experience more and more pain.”, Soylu said.

 

Witness Tariq Keblaoui said he was shopping on Istiklal Street when the explosion happened about 10 meters (32.8 feet) ahead of him.

People were scattering immediately.”, said Keblaoui, a Lebanese-based journalist who was on his last day of vacation in the city.

Very shortly after, I could see how many injured were on the ground.”, Keblaoui told CNN.

He says he saw dead bodies and victims who were seriously injured.

There was a man in the store bleeding from his ears and his legs, and his friends were crying near him.”, Keblaoui said.

Istiklal Street was packed with visitors when the blast happened Sunday afternoon, he said.

It went very quickly from a very peaceful Sunday with a very crowded street full of tourists to being what looked like the aftermath of a war zone.”, Keblaoui said.

Above: Tariq Keblaoui

News of the explosion led to a torrent of condolences from around the world.

Above: (in blue) Countries thanked by the Turkish President for expressing their condolences and support

French President Emmanuel Macron, whose own country suffered a deadly terror attack exactly seven years earlier, shared his sympathies for the Turkish people.

On this day so symbolic for our nation, while we think of the victims who fell on 13 November 2015, the Turkish people are struck by an attack in their heart, Istanbul.” Macron tweeted.

To the Turks:

We share your pain.

We stand with you in the fight against terrorism.”

Above: French President Emmanuel Macron

European Council President Charles Michel shared his condolences after Sunday’s deadly blast.

Horrific news from Istanbul tonight,” he said.

All our thoughts are with those currently responding and the people of Türkiye at this very distressing time.”

Above: European Council President Charles Michel

NATO Secretary General Jens Stoltenberg tweeted his “deepest condolences” to the Turkish people, adding that NATO “stands in solidarity with our ally” Turkey.

Above: NATO Secretary General Jens Stoltenberg

The United States “strongly condemns the act of violence that took place today in Istanbul.”, White House Press Secretary Karine Jean-Pierre said Sunday.

Our thoughts are with those who were injured and our deepest condolences go to those who lost loved ones.”

Above: White House Press Secretary Karine Jean-Pierre

The condolences offered by the US Embassy in Turkey were rejected by the Turkish Interior Minister Süleyman Soylu, who said in a televised interview on 14 November 2022 that:

We do not accept the condolences of the US Ambassador.

We reject them.”

Above: Jeffry L. Flake, United States Ambassador to Turkey

Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky tweeted of his “deep sadness” at the news of the blast.

I offer my condolences to the families of those who lost their lives and wish a speedy recovery to the injured.”, Zelensky said.

The pain of the friendly Turkish people is our pain.

Above: President of Ukraine Volodymyr Zelenskyy

A day after the incident the avenue was decorated with 1,200 Turkish flags as a way of remembering the victims of the bombing.

Most tree benches on İstiklal Avenue were removed.

Above: Memorial point after the 13 November 2022 bombing

No group has claimed responsibility, but Turkish authorities announced that Kurdish separatists were behind the attack implicating the PKK and the Syrian Kurdish Democratic Union Party (PYD).

Turkey’s Interior Minister, Süleyman Soylu, announced the arrest of the bomber and 46 others. 

Above: Captain Louis Renault (Claude Rains) tells his officer to “Round up the usual suspects.” as Rick Blaine (Humphrey Bogart), Ilsa Lund (Ingrid Bergman) and Victor Laszlo (Paul Henreid) look on. – Casablanca (1942)

Turkey’s PKK denied any role in the attack, as did the Syrian Democratic Forces (SDF), which accused the Turkish government of creating a pretext for a new ground attack on Syria.

Above: Flag of the Syrian Democratic Forces

During the late 20th and early 21st century, Islamist terrorist groups including al-Qaeda and ISIS carried out many attacks in Istanbul. 

Above: Flag of Al-Qaeda

Kurdish nationalist terrorist groups – including the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK) and the Kurdistan Freedom Hawks (TAK) – did likewise.

Above: Flag of the Kurdistan Freedom Hawks

Islamic State carried out a series of attacks during the mid-2010s.

On 11 May 2013, two car bombs exploded in the town of Reyhanli, Hatay Province, Turkey, close to the busiest land border post (Bab al-Hawa border crossing) with Syria.

51 people were killed and 140 injured in the attack, the deadliest single act of terrorism to occur on Turkish soil up until then — to be surpassed by the 10 October 2015 Ankara bombings with 102 deaths.

The responsibility for the attack is as yet unclear:

Politicians, authorities and the media have named at least six possibilities. 

Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant (ISIL) as late as September 2013, at the occasion of a threat to the Turkish government, suddenly claimed the 11 May 2013 attack.

In response to the attacks, the Turkish government sent air and ground forces to increase the already heavy military presence in the area.

Above: Reyhanli, Hatay Province, Turkey

Around 30 September 2013, according to English-language newspaper/website Today’s Zaman (2007 – 2016):

A statement attributed to ISIL” threatened Turkey with a series of suicide attacks in Istanbul and Ankara unless Turkey would reopen its Syrian border crossings at Bab al-Hawa and Bab al-Salameh before 7 October.

On 20 March 2014, three foreigners emerging from a taxi opened fire with an AK-47 and lobbed a hand grenade, killing a soldier and a policeman who were conducting routine checks on the Ulukisla–Adana Expressway, and injuring four soldiers.

The attackers were wounded in return fire but got away.

Two of the attackers were apprehended at Eminlik village, where villagers, thinking they were wounded Syrians, took them to the local medical clinic.

Kosovan officials confirmed that the attackers were linked to al-Qaeda.

Some Turkish media preferred the scenario that they were from ISIL.

Above: Eminlik, Tarsus District, Mersin Province, Turkey

On 6 January 2015, a bomb is detonated in Istanbul’s Sultanahmet Square.

One police officer was killed, another officer was injured.

Above: Obelisk of Theodosius, Sultanahmet Square, Istanbul, Turkey

After ISIL, in March 2014, had threatened to attack the tomb of Suleyman Shah (1166 – 1227), the grandfather of Osman I (1254 – 1299), the founder of the Ottoman Empire.

The tomb was located in northern Syria.

Above: Qal’at Ja’bar Castle in Syria, as it is surrounded since 1973 by the waters of Lake Assad.

Previously, this was a fortified hilltop overlooking the Euphrates Valley.

According to legend, Suleyman Shah in 1236 drowned in the Euphrates near this castle and was buried by it.

With the creation of this lake in 1973 the tomb was relocated, 85 km (53 mi) northward on the Euphrates River, 27 km (17 miles) from the Turkish border.

On 21 February 2015, Turkey decided to evacuate the tomb site, with a military convoy of hundred armored vehicles and 570 troops, and removing it, some 27 km northward, still in Syria, but now only 200 meters from the Turkish border.

Above: View of the building complex of the Tomb of Suleyman Shah (its second location, 1973 – February 2015), seen from the Euphrates River

On 5 June 2015, just 48 hours before the June 2015 General Election, two separate bombs exploded at an electoral rally in Diyarbakır held by the pro-Kurdish Peoples’ Democratic Party (HDP).

Above: Diyarbakir, Diyarbakir Province, Turkey

Four were killed and dozens were injured.

Suspicions as for the perpetrators lie on ISIL and on some ISIL-linked terrorist cell named the ‘Dokumacilar‘ (Weavers).

Above: Lisa Calan, a Kurdish film director who lost both her legs in the bombing

On 20 July 2015, the municipal cultural center in Suruç in the southeastern province of Sanliurfa was bombed. 34 people, mostly university-aged students planning to reconstruct the Syrian border town of Kobani, were killed and more than 100 people were injured.

ISIL claimed the attack a couple of days later.

According to journalist Serkan Demirtas, this attack could be considered as a declaration of war by ISIL on Turkey.

Above: After the Suruç bombing, forensic science experts in scene of crime, Suruç, Şanlıurfa Province, Turkey

The Ceylanpınar incident (22 – 24 July 2015) saw the killing of two policemen in Ceylanpinar, Turkey, which led to the resumption of the Kurdish – Turkish conflict.

The attack was used by the AKP government as a casus belli to end the otherwise largely successful 2013 – 2015 solution process and resume its war against the PKK.

As the AKP had failed to win a majority in the June 2015 Turkish General Election the month before, and soon after the resumption of hostilities announced the November 2015 Turkish snap general election, analysts believe that the Ceylanpınar killings and return to war have been used to increase Turkish nationalist fervor and favoured the ruling party taking back control over the Turkish Parliament.

Other motives have also been advanced, with the Syrian War encouraging extremist parties from both sides to undermine peace efforts by increasing nationalism and readiness for war.

Above: Ceylanpinar, Şanlıurfa Province, Turkey

On 23 July 2015 at 13:30, five gunmen, identified by the Turkish military as ISIL fighters, attacked a Turkish border outpost in the border town of Elbeyli, Kilis Province, killing Turkish soldier Yalçın Nane and wounding five.

In reaction, Turkish forces pursued the militants into Syria,

Turkish tanks and artillery shelled ISIL militants in northern Syria, killing at least one militant and obliterating a number of ISIL vehicles.

Turkish tanks also bombarded a small (abandoned) Syrian village north of Azaz, Aleppo, in which the ISIL militants were thought to be taking refuge, and killed or wounded several of the ISIL militants who were trying to take cover there.

Around 7 pm on 23 July, reports stated that 100 ISIL militants had been killed, but those reports were criticized by anti-government newspapers.

The Turkish Armed Forces later stated that all five ISIL militants who had attacked the Turkish army in Elbeyli had been killed.

Above: Seal of the Turkish Armed Forces

On 10 October 2015 at 10:04, in Ankara, the capital city of Turkey, two bombs were detonated outside Ankara Central Railway Station.

With a death toll of 109 civilians, the attack surpassed the 2013 Reyhanli bombings as the deadliest terror attack in Turkish history.

Another 500 people were injured.

Above: “Democracy” memorial in front of Ankara Central Railway Station

Censorship monitoring group Turkey Blocks identified nationwide slowing of social media services in the aftermath of the blasts, described by rights group Human Rights Watch as an “extrajudicial” measure to restrict independent media coverage of the incident.

The bombs appeared to target a “Labour, Peace and Democracy” rally organised by the Confederation of Progressive Trade Unions of Turkey (DİSK), the Union of Chambers of Turkish Engineers and Architects (TMMOB), the Peoples’ Democratic Party (HDP), the Turkish Medical Association (TTB) and the Confederation of Public Workers’ Unions (KESK).

Above: Logo of DİSK, the confederation of revolutionary workers’ unions (Devrimci İşçi Sendikaları Konfederasyonu)

Above: Logo of the Union of Chambers of Turkish Engineers and Architects

Above: Logo of the Confederation of Public Employees’ Unions (Kamu Emekçileri Sendikaları Konfederasyonu)

The peace march was held to protest against the growing conflict between the Turkish Armed Forces and the PKK.

The incident occurred 21 days before the scheduled 1 November General Election.

The governing AKP, the main opposition CHP and the opposition MHP condemned the attack and called it an attempt to cause division within Turkey.

CHP and MHP leaders heavily criticized the government for the security failure, whereas HDP directly blamed the AKP government for the bombings.

Various political parties ended up cancelling their election campaigns while three days of national mourning were declared by Prime Minister Ahmet Davutoğlu.

Above: Ahmet Davutoğlu (Turkish Prime Minister: 2014 – 2016)

No organization has ever claimed responsibility for the attack.

The Ankara Attorney General stated that they were investigating the possibility of two cases of suicide bombings.

On 19 October, one of the two suicide bombers was officially identified as the younger brother of the perpetrator of the Suruç bombing.

Both brothers had suspected links to ISIL and the ISIL-affiliated Dokumacilar group.

Above: 2015 Ankara bombing: Victims’ names

On 8 January 2016, Turkish forces at Iraq’s Bashiq camp killed 17 ISIL militants when the group attacked the camp with rocket fire and assault rifles .

This was the third attack by ISIL on the Turkish base.

Turkey has been training an armed anti-ISIL Sunni group in the camp.

Above: Bashiqa, Iraq

On 12 January 2016, an ISIL suicide bomber committed the Istanbul bombings in Istanbul’s historic Sultanahmet Square, killing 12 people.

All of the victims killed were foreign citizens (11 Germans, 1 Peruvian).

In response to the bombing, the Turkish Army commenced tank and artillery strikes on ISIL positions in Syria and Iraq.

Turkish authorities estimate that these 48 hours of shelling killed nearly 200 ISIL fighters.

Above: Flowers and flags of Turkey and Germany near Obelisk of Theodosius, Istanbul, Turkey, January 2016

On 19 March 2016, a second ISIL suicide bombing took place in Istanbul’s Beyoğlu district.

The attack killed four and wounded 36 people.

On 22 March 2016, the Turkish Interior Minister said that the bomber had links with ISIL.

Above: Demirören Shopping Mall in Istiklal Avenue, Beyoğlu, İstanbul, near which the bombing took place

Since the 2016 Turkish coup attempt and the purges that followed, political discourse, media, public speech as well as academic and judiciary voices are heavily monitored, with nearly no possible opposition to governmental discourse.

On 15 July 2016, a faction within the Turkish Armed Forces, organized as the Peace at Home Council, attempted a coup d’état against state institutions, including the government and President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan. 

They attempted to seize control of several places in Ankara, Istanbul, Marmaris and elsewhere, such as the Asian side entrance of the Bosphorus Bridge, but failed to do so after forces loyal to the state defeated them.

Above: 15 July Martyrs’ Monument at the Presidential Complex, Ankara, Turkey

The Council cited an erosion of secularism, elimination of democratic rule, disregard for human rights, and Turkey’s loss of credibility in the international arena as reasons for the coup.

The government said the coup leaders were linked to the Gülen movement, which is designated as a terrorist organization by the Republic of Turkey and led by Fethullah Gülen, a Turkish businessman and scholar who lives in Pennsylvania.

The Turkish government alleged that Gülen was behind the coup (which Gülen denied) and that the US was harboring him.

Above: Fethullah Gülen condemned the coup attempt and denied any role in it.

The Gülen movement (Gülen hareketi), referred to by its participants as Hizmet (“service“) or Cemaat (“community“) and since 2016 by the Government of Turkey as FETÖ (“Fethullah Terrorist Organization“/ Fethullahçı Terör Örgütü), is an Islamist fraternal fmovement led by Fethullah Gülen, a Muslim preacher who has lived in the US since 1999.

The movement is designated as a terrorist organization by Turkey, Pakistan, Northern Cyprus and the Gulf Cooperation Council.

However, the Gülen movement is not recognized as a terrorist organization by the EU, the US, the UK, Finland and Sweden.

Owing to the outlawed status of the Gülen movement in Turkey, some observers refer to the movement’s volunteers who are Turkish Muslims as effectively a subsect of Sunni Islam.

A US-based umbrella foundation which is affiliated with the movement is the Alliance for Shared Values.

The movement has attracted supporters and drawn the attention of critics in Turkey, Central Asia, and other parts of the world.

It is active in education and operates private schools and universities in over 180 countries.

It has initiated forums for interfaith dialogue.

It has substantial investments in media, finance and health clinics.

Despite its teachings which are stated conservative in Turkey, some have praised the movement as a pacifist, modern-oriented version of Islam, and an alternative to more extreme schools of Islam.

But it has also been reported of having a “cultish hierarchy” and of being a secretive Islamic sect.

The Gülen movement is a former ally of the AKP.

When the AKP came to power  in 2002 the two formed, despite their differences, a tactical alliance against military tutelage and the Turkish secular elite.

It was through this alliance that the AKP had accomplished an unprecedented feat in Turkish republican history by securing national electoral victories sufficient to form three consecutive majority governments in 2002, 2007 and 2011.

The Gülen movement gained influence on the Turkish police force and the judiciary during its alliance with conservative President Erdoğan, which saw hundreds of Gülen supporters appointed to positions within the Turkish government.

With only slight exaggeration, the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) as well as the government it has led could be termed a coalition of religious orders.

The Gülen movement stayed away from electoral politics, focusing instead on increasing its presence in the state bureaucracy.

The Hizmet movement’s stated success in this regard would initially make it Erdoğan’s main partner, but also his eventual nemesis.

Once the old establishment was defeated, disagreements emerged between the AKP and the Gülen movement.

The first breaking point was the MIT Crisis of February 2012, it was also interpreted as a power struggle between pro-Gülen police and judiciary and the AKP.

Above: Seal of the Turkish National Intelligence Organization

In March 2011, seven Turkish journalists were arrested, including Amet Şık, who had been writing a book, Imamin Ordusu (The Imam’s Army), which states that the Gülen movement has infiltrated the country’s security forces (including the MIT).

As Şık was taken into police custody, he shouted:

Whoever touches the movement gets burned!

Upon his arrest, drafts of the book were confiscated and its possession was banned.

In a reply, Abdullah Bozkurt, from the Gülen movement newspaper Today’s Zaman, said Ahmet Şık was not being an investigative journalist conducting “independent research“, but was hatching “a plot designed and put into action by the terrorist network itself“.

After the 2013 corruption investigations in Turkey into stated corrupt practices by several bureaucrats, ministers, mayors, and family members of the ruling AKP of Turkey was uncovered, President Erdoğan blamed the movement for initiating the investigations as a result of a break in previously friendly relations.

The 2013 corruption scandal in Turkey (or the 17-25 December Corruption and Bribery Operation) was a criminal investigation that involved several key people in the Turkish government.

All of the 52 people detained on 17 December were connected in various ways with the ruling AKP.

Prosecutors accused 14 people – including Suleyman Aslan (the director of state-owned Halkbank), Iranian businessman Reza Zarrab, and several family members of cabinet ministers – of bribery, corruption, fraud, money laundering and gold smuggling.

A

t the heart of the scandal was an alleged “gas for gold” scheme with Iran involving Aslan, who had US$4.5 million in cash stored in shoeboxes in his home, and Zarrab, who was involved in about US$9.6 billion of gold trading in 2012.

Both men were arrested.

The scheme started after Turkish government officials found a loophole in the US sanctions against Iran that allowed them to access Iranian oil and gas.

The Turks exported some US$13 billion of gold to Iran directly, or through the United Arab Emirates (UAE), between March 2012 and July 2013.

Above: Flag of the UAE

In return, the Turks received Iranian natural gas and oil.

The transactions were carried out through the Turkish state-owned bank, Halkbank.

In January 2013, the Obama administration decided to close this loophole but instead of immediately charging Halkbank, the US government allowed its gold trading activities to continue until July 2013, because Turkey was an important ally regarding the American-led intervention in the Syrian Civil War and the US had been working on a nuclear deal with Iran.

Above: Flag of Iran

President Erdoğan said Gülen attempted to overthrow the Turkish government through a judicial coup by the use of corruption investigations and seized the group-owned newspaper (Zaman (“time“) — one of the most circulated newspapers in Turkey before the seizure) and several companies that have ties with the group.

Events surrounding the coup attempt and the purges in its aftermath reflect a complex power struggle between Islamist elites in Turkey.

During the coup attempt, over 300 people were killed and more than 2,100 were injured.

Many government buildings, including the Turkish Parliament and the Presidential Palace, were bombed from the air. 

Mass arrests followed, with at least 40,000 detained, including at least 10,000 soldiers and, for reasons that remain unclear, 2,745 judges. 

15,000 education staff were also suspended and the licenses of 21,000 teachers working at private institutions were revoked after the government stated they were loyal to Gülen.

More than 77,000 people have been arrested and over 160,000 fired from their jobs, on reports of connections to Gülen.

In March 2017, Germany’s intelligence chief said Germany was unconvinced by Erdoğan’s statement that Gülen was behind the failed coup attempt.

The same month, the British Parliament’s Foreign Affairs Select Committee said some Gulenists were involved in the coup d’état attempt but found no hard evidence that Fethullah Gülen masterminded the failed coup and found no evidence to justify the UK designating the Gülen movement as aterrorist organization“.

Above: Citizens protesting the coup attempt in Kizilay Square, Ankara, Turkey

Turkey is heading toward its 2023 Turkish General Election, which is expected to be a major challenge for the AKP party due to economic slow down and very high inflation.

In the past decade, Erdoğan and the AKP government used anti-PKK, security, martial rhetoric and external operations to raise Turkish nationalist votes before elections.

In between, security concerns and anti-terrorism laws have been used to repress and neutralize elected oppositions.

Opposition HDP elected officials are systematically probed, arrested, dismissed based on tenuous accusations, to be then replaced by AKP loyalists.

Accusation by association due to alliances with HDP party officials (and implied links to PKK terrorism) is also used against other opposition leaders. 

CHP Mayor of Istanbul Ekrem İmamoğlu is indicted for such political alliance, with persecutors calling to evict him from politics and the 2023 Turkish General Election.

The votes of the persecuted HDP party, a pro-Kurdish party accused by Erdoğan and the AKP to be linked with the PKK, are necessary to any opposition bloc wanting to conquer power.

More recently, and since May 2022, Recep Tayyip Erdoğan and his government have called for new external ground operations toward autonomous territories in Syria and ramped up attacks on the area.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Turkish voters need to look first at what the candidates have achieved and only then at what the candidates have promised.

Turkish people are avid media consumers, but democracy only works when it is accompanied by a free press, which is far harder than simply reporting the news allowed by the government and slanting its message in favour of the government.

Turkey needs investigative journalism which uncovers facts and wrongdoing without fear of being labelled traitorous or arrested for voicing criticism of the government.

Turkey needs explanatory journalism that describes the bigger picture, providing background information and explanation.

Both investigative and explanatory journalism are difficult and expensive and demand skill on the part of both the news makers and the news readers.

Neither are well served by the current news formats or the current political climate.

If Turks were the last of the Ottoman ethnicities to get their own nation-states, the Kurds arrived at history’s party too late.

There are anywhere between 28 and 35 million Kurds, inhabiting a region that straddles Turkey, Iran, Iraq and Syria, with smaller populations elsewhere, including Armenia, Azerbaijan and Lebanon.

This geographic diversity suggests that Kurdish identity is shaped by a variety of competing forces and that ethnic solidarity with fellow Kurds across borders is often overshadowed by the concerns and politics in which Kurds actually find themselves.

In Turkey, Kurds form a majority in 15 provinces in the southeast and east of the country, with the metropolitan city of Diyarbakir being the unofficial capital of the Kurdish region.

There is also a large diaspora both in Western Europe and in coastal cities like Adana and Izmir.

Istanbul, on the diametrically opposite side of the country from Diyarbakir, is almost certainly the largest Kurdish city in the world in the way that New York City is home to the largest number of Jews.

The CIA Fact Book estimates that Kurds make up 18% of Turkey’s population.

Above: Flag of Kurdistan

It is fair to say that much of the rest of Turkey looks at Kurdish society through a glass darkly and sees Kurdish tribal organization as imposing primitive loyalties and archaic kinship relations.

More useful would be to think of tribes as alliances that negotiate with the political mainstream.

Likewise, radical Kurdish politics draws from inequalities within Kurdish society and not simply from the denial of Kurdish identity.

For all its claims to be a melting pot of civilization and a mosaic of different cultures, Turkey has been continually blindsided by the problem of accommodating its own ethnic diversity.

A principal reason lies in the foundation of the Turkish Republic and the perceived need to impose a new national identity on a war-stricken nation.

Above: Flag of Turkey

Kurds posed an obvious challenge.

First, because they formed a distinct and regionally concentrated linguistic group that was not Turkish, but also because they were overwhelmingly Muslim and therefore not an “anomalous minority” as defined by the Treaty of Lausanne.

Above: Palais de Rumine, Lausanne, Canton Vaud, Switzerland – where the Treaty of Lausanne was signed on 24 July 1923, delimiting the boundaries of Greece, Bulgaria and Turkey.

Though Kurds were readily recruited to fight the War of Independence, commanders of Kurdish irregulars felt betrayed by the very secular, highly centralized and very Turkish character of the new state.

Above: Images of the Turkish War of Independence (1919 – 1923)

There was a major uprising in 1925, which drew resentment against the abolition of the Caliphate (632 – 1924) as much as it did from a nascent Kurdish nationalism.

The caliphate system was abolished in Turkey in 1924 during the secularization of Turkey as part of Atatürk’s reforms.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881 – 1938)

That rebellion became reason and pretext to reinforce the authoritarian character of the regime in the rest of Turkey.

From the beginning of the Republic, the Kurdish issue, and specifically fear of Kurdish secession, has become inextricably linked to the problems of Turkish democratization and of the reliance on forms of repression to keep society under control.

Turkish officialdom has historically pursued a policy of assimilation, using both carrot and stick.

Above: (in orange) Kurdistan of Turkey

What lies at the heart of Turkey’s Kurdish problem?

Even to ask this question gets on some Turkish nerves.

A still widely-held view is that the Kurdish problem is simply one of terrorism or of troublemakers trying to scratch an itch where none exists.

The issue centers on the guerilla campaign conducted by the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK).

The conflict is estimated to have cost over 40,000 lives, including civilians, PKK members and Turkish soldiers.

The PKK was the product of a vicious process of natural selection after all other channels of dissent were eliminated.

The events of 9/11 in America created some sympathy for Turkey’s own longstanding fight with terrorism.

The harsh measures adopted by Western states to fight al-Qaeda appeared to confirm a long-cherished Turkish maxim:

National security requires the sacrifice of liberties.

Turkish concern about its own territorial integrity translates into a concern that its neighbours not set a dangerous example by allowing political autonomy for their own Kurdish populations.

Turks ask themselves why the US, so determined to fight terrorism, tolerates the existence of Kurdish bases.

There is a widely-held belief in Turkey that Western powers use Kurdish insurrection to keep Turkey weak.

These views persist despite an agreement under which the Pentagon makes real-time intelligence available to the Turkish military in order to track PKK fighters infiltrating into Turkey.

Washington also committed itself to providing Turkish forces with drones and other anti-insurgency hardware.

Turkish politicians often portray PKK attacks not as part of some intractable domestic problems but as “contracted” by outside powers.

At the same time they are only too aware that the Kurdish issue affects Turkish ambitions to play the role of a stabilizing power in the Middle East.

Peace at home, peace in the world” was Atatürk’s much-quoted mission statement of Turkish foreign policy.

That vision will flounder if Turkey cannot come to terms with a problem in its own backyard.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

Is there a Kurdish solution?

What do Kurds in Turkey want?

Full cultural rights?

A process of truth and reconcilation?

Devolution?

Simply the prospect of prosperity?

Hardened Turkish nationalists believe that any concession to Kurdish identity will lead to policial secession.

Having defined the fight with the PKK for so long as a struggle against separatism, they take for granted that separatism must be the enemy.

On the other hand, not even the PKK openly calls for an independent state.

They have declared its only ambition is to democratize Turkish society.

Did the PKK bomb Istanbul on Sunday?

They say they didn’t.

Is anyone surprised that they would nonetheless be blamed?

No one.

For the PKK is easy to blame, easy to hate, considering their past violence.

But could the PKK also be convenient for creating a perceived threat that only the powers-that-be can save us from?

Rahm Israel Emanuel is an American politician and diplomat who is the current US Ambassador to Japan.

A member of the Democratic Party, he previously served two terms as the 55th Mayor of Chicago (2011 – 2019) and the 23rd White House Chief of Staff (2009 – 2010), and served three terms in the US House of Representatives, representing Illinois (2003 – 2009).

Above: US Ambassador Rahm Emanuel

On his #ChiStories podcast of 19 October 2018, he tweeted:

“My guest on #ChiStories podcast is @BeschlossDC (Michael Beschloss), whose newest book is Presidents of War.

Go behind the phrase “Never let a crisis go to waste” as we dissect how US Presidents approached their role as Commander-in-Chief in times of war.”

According to Freakonomics blog (http://www.freakonomics.com) commentator TJ Hessmon:

“The “political” use of the phrase “Never let a good crisis go to waste.” is based upon the points made in Saul Alinsky’s Rules for Radicals, page 89, in the section marked “Communication“:

In the arena of action, a threat or a crisis becomes almost a precondition to communication.”

Taking advantage of any crisis whether real or manufactured is a common tool used by those waging war.

When used in this way, crisis, and its extreme amplification as “thinking and acting as a group“, is no longer a tactic of protest but instead a tactic of ideological subversion, which is used to bring about totalitarian government control, via Socialism or Communism.

In other words, the leader forms groups along the lines of a crisis and uses that crisis to force the need for control.

If the crisis is allowed to continue (as we observed often during the last presidential administration) people will cry out to government, for relief from the result of the crisis, which can lead to property destruction and even loss of life and limb.

The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) is one example of how crisis (terrorism) was used to create a police state at American airports, when it was known that there are other more effective tactics used by other nations to avoid airliner incidents.”

I am reminded of the thinking of Niccolò Machiavelli (1469 – 1527):

A prince is tolerated when his service is seen to be indispensable.

Above: Italian writer (The Prince) Niccolò Machiavelli

I am not suggesting that the incumbent administration in Turkey was in any way responsible for bombings and coups that have taken place during its term in office, but I wonder how useful tragedies, such as Sunday’s Istanbul explosion, prove to be to justify tightening its grip on power.

If the press is to be believed – Terrorism only works thanks to the media. – one woman with a plastic bag of explosives has changed Turkish society forever.

Terrorists’ true weapon is not the bomb, but the fear triggered by the bomb.

The actual threat is relatively small, but the perceived threat is immense.

This balancing act is made possible by the news media.

Since 2001, terrorists have killed on average 50 people per year within the European Union.

By comparison, 80,000 EU citizens die each year in traffic accidents and 60,000 by suicide.

Above: Flag of the European Union

The risk of being killed by a terrorist is astronomically smaller than the risk of being killed by your own hand.

Paradoxically, the news makes it seem like it is the other way around.

Above: Bad news“, Luci Gutiérrez, New Yorker cartoon, 16 July 2018

A terrorist’s primary goal is not to kill people.

Their goals are strategic:

They are seeking political change.

They want people to pay attention to their demands:

Attention they receive in the form of news and the ensuing backlash.

For political scientist Martha Crenshaw at Stanford University, terrorists are entirely rational actors:

Terrorism is a logical choice when the power ratio of government to challenger is high.

Above: Seal of Stanford University, Stanford, California, USA

In other words, terrorists themselves are powerless.

The only halfway promising method of forcing political change is to sow fear and chaos.

And for that they need the news media.

Israeli historian Yuval Noah Harari has remarked:

Terrorists are masters of mind control.

They kill very few people, but nevertheless manage to terrify billions and rattle huge political structures, such as the EU and the US.

The theatre of terror cannot succeed without publicity.

Unfortunately, the media all too often provide this publicity for free.

It obsessively reports terror attacks and greatly inflates their danger, because reports on terrorism sell newspapers much better than reports on diabetes or air pollution.

Above: Yuval Noah Harari

The press focuses on the fear a bomb creates, not on the lives the bomb devastates, nor does it provide a meaningful context as to why someone would commit such a horrific act.

We will never know who the dead were and we can only speculate as to who they might have become.

We will never learn of the lives affected by the loss of those who are now mere memories.

We will never learn of the extent of the injuries that those struck down by the explosion and how their lives, physically and/or psychologically, have been transformed forever.

But you can’t live in fear.

You can’t let fear of dying keep you from living.

What is the point of living if you don’t feel alive?

I will return to Istanbul.

I will walk down Istiklal Avenue and shop once again.

All the bomber showed me was their ability to kill.

Anyone can destroy.

What the world needs is those who can build.

Let us build bridges not walls.

Let us make love not war.

Nothing to fear but fear itself.

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945) (US President: 1933 – 1945)

Swiss author and philosopher Rolf Dobelli explains it this way:

Above: Rolf Dobelli

Gersau is a village in the middle of Switzerland, idyllically situated on Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Lucerne):

A tiny picturesque place with 2,000 inhabitants – smaller than the Municipality I spring from in Canada (Brownsburg-Chatham) and larger than the Swiss hamlet of Landschlacht from whence the journey to Mürren begins.

For centuries Gersau was an independent republic.

The village wanted no part in the Swiss Federation and for 300 years it was given free rein.

Only when Napoleon invaded Switzerland in 1798 was its independence revoked.

When the French troops withdrew, the village redeclared independence – but this only lasted four years.

Today, Gersau is part of Switzerland.

Above: Gersau, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

Let’s try a thought experiment.

Imagine you are a Gersau villager and you want to regain independence.

You feel obliged by the long historic tradition of independence.

Maybe you feel that you have been unjustly treated by the rest of Switzerland.

What options do you have to make people listen to your demands?

You could gather like-minded compatriots and pass a resolution at a community meeting.

But nobody would take you seriously.

Certainly not outside the village.

You could write a blog – which would never be read.

You could employ a PR firm, but that, too, would come to nothing.

Or you could set off a bomb outside Parliament in Bern.

With a giant placard in the background – Free Gersau! – you would capture national and international attention within minutes.

Of course, everybody would condemn your behaviour in the strongest terms, but….

You would spark a debate.

Above: Bundeshaus (Federal Palace of Switzerland), Bern, Switzerland

Now imagine the press did not exist.

What then?

The bomb explodes.

Windows shatter.

Passers-by are injured.

The attack is discussed at the market and down the pub.

Outside Bern, however, interest would fizzle.

Next day the square outside Parliament would look the same as before.

You would have accomplished nothing.

Above: Bern, Switzerland

It strikes me as curious that the PKK are held responsible and yet they themselves are reluctant to claim responsibility.

For if the point of a terrorist attack is to garner attention than the PKK denial suggests to me that they are a convenient scapegoat to justify increased control by the powers-that-be.

From what little has been revealed about the explosion – as evidenced by the massive number of people arrested after the incident – is that it is unclear to the investigation who the real perpetrators are or what their motive might be.

Perhaps it is as suggested by Alfred Pennyworth (Michael Caine) in the movie The Dark Knight:

Some people simply want to watch the world burn.

Or it may be that the generators underlying this event are simply beyond our ken, because the processes that shape cultural, intellectual, economic, military, political and environment events are too invisible, too complex, too non-linear, too hard for our brains to digest.

Who can truly comprehend another person’s individual mind and the path that led them to where they are today?

Who can truly comprehend the mind of someone who would deliberately kill innocents or allow innocents to be killed?

I certainly don’t claim to do so.

Perhaps living far from public notice makes us less vulnerable?

Maybe.

But it was the lives of ordinary people that were the victims of forces beyond their ken and of a mindset beyond anyone’s comprehension.

All that they were, all that they might have been, erased by a threat seemingly out of Nowhere.

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Wednesday 5 January 2022

Let us return to Landschlacht / Münsterlingen and consider something else.

Each town across the globe searches for something to brag about, something that lends to itself a sense of worth, a sense of accomplishment, a reason for pride.

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Consider Landschlacht.

What makes it special?

I have mentioned its lake location and its old chapel.

I have shown half-timbered buildings.

In a previous post, I mentioned how street lights are extinguished after midnight resulting in a light-pollution-free starry night sky.

Above: Rotes Haus Restaurant, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Consider Münsterlingen.

What makes it special?

We may speak of its hospital and its psychiatric clinic, the Abbey and its ceremony of carrying a wooden head across the frozen Lake.

Above: Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Consider Brownsburg-Chatham, where I spent my childhood.

What makes it special?

We may talk of its being settled by American Loyalists and named after English Prime Minister William Pitt, 1st Earl of Chatham (1708 – 1778) and English Major George Brown.

Above: William Pitt the Elder (Prime Minister of Great Britain: 1766 – 1768)

We may speak of its farms and its explosives production.

Above: Brownsburg, Argenteuil County, Québec, Canada

But beyond superficialities such as these:

What makes a place unique is its people.

Landschlacht, Brownsburg and – yes, to folks outside Turkey – Eskişehir.

Beyond the Canton of Thurgau no one knows (or cares) where Landschlacht is.

Beyond Argenteuil County a person would be hard pressed to tell where in Canada is Brownsburg.

Tourist guides rarely mention Eskişehir. – I had not heard of the place before I received a job offer to work here.

But what makes these Nowhere places in the middle of Somewhere Else special are its people.

Certainly the world notices a place’s personalities, those rare individuals that have managed to attract attention to themselves.

I have mentioned some of Münsterlingen’s personalities above.

I mention now that Brownsburg-Chatham’s claim to fame is that it was home to the late Montréal Canadiens ice hockey defenseman Gilles Lupien (1954 – 2021).

Above: Gilles Lupien

In previous posts I have spoken of Eskişehir being better known for its universities, its meerschaum pipes, and that it was the place where Turkey’s first automobile, first aviation industry and the first NATO tactical air force HQ in Turkey occurred, more than any personalities the world beyond Turkey might have ever heard of.

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Turkey

Yet Brownsburg, Landschlacht and Eskişehir – places few folks beyond their borders know – are important to me for the people I have known therein.

Brownsburg-Chatham and the neighbouring municipalities of Grenville and Lachute are populated with the memories of those I have known and loved from my childhood and youth.

Landschlacht is still the home of my wife, the love and bane of my existence.

Because of her, a piece of my heart remains there.

Eskişehir is where I now work and live and the people with whom I regularly meet form the nucleus of the joy of life I presently enjoy.

When I think of Landschlacht, I invariably think of Canadian writer Stephen Leacock’s Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town, and I think of Landschlacht as a kind of Swiss Mariposa.

At least to me.

Above: Stephen Leacock (1869 – 1944)

“I don’t know whether you know Mariposa.

If not, it is of no consequence, for if you know Canada at all, you are probably well acquainted with a dozen towns just like it.

Above: Flag of Canada

There it lies in the sunlight, sloping up from the little lake that spreads out at the foot of the hillside on which the town is built.

Above: Orillia, Simcoe County, Ontario – Inspiration of Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town

There is a wharf beside the lake, and lying alongside of it a steamer that is tied to the wharf with two ropes of about the same size as they use on the Lusitania.

Above: RMS Lusitania (1904 – 1915)

The steamer goes nowhere in particular, for the lake is landlocked and there is no navigation for the Mariposa Belle except to “run trips” on the first of July and the Queen’s Birthday, and to take excursions of the Knights of Pythias and the Sons of Temperance to and from the Local Option Townships.

In point of geography the lake is called Lake Wissanotti and the river running out of it the Ossawippi, just as the main street of Mariposa is called Missinaba Street and the county Missinaba County.

But these names do not really matter.

Nobody uses them.

People simply speak of the “lake” and the “river” and the “main street“, much in the same way as they always call the Continental Hotel, “Pete Robinson’s” and the Pharmaceutical Hall, “Eliot’s Drug Store“.

But I suppose this is just the same in every one else’s town as in mine, so I need lay no stress on it.

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616) quote from Romeo and Juliet

The town, I say, has one broad street that runs up from the lake, commonly called the Main Street.

There is no doubt about its width.

When Mariposa was laid out there was none of that shortsightedness which is seen in the cramped dimensions of Wall Street and Piccadilly.

Above: Street sign, New York City, New York, USA

Above: Piccadilly Circus, London, England

Missinaba Street is so wide that if you were to roll Jeff Thorpe’s barber shop over on its face it wouldn’t reach half way across.

Up and down the Main Street are telegraph poles of cedar of colossal thickness, standing at a variety of angles and carrying rather more wires than are commonly seen at a transatlantic cable station.

On the Main Street itself are a number of buildings of extraordinary importance — Smith’s Hotel and the Continental and the Mariposa House, and the two banks (the Commercial and the Exchange), to say nothing of McCarthy’s Block (erected in 1878), and Glover’s Hardware Store with the Oddfellows’ Hall above it.

Then on the “cross” street that intersects Missinaba Street at the main corner there is the Post Office and the Fire Hall and the Young Men’s Christian Association and the office of the Mariposa Newspacket

In fact, to the eye of discernment a perfect jostle of public institutions comparable only to Threadneedle Street or Lower Broadway.

On all the side streets there are maple trees and broad sidewalks, trim gardens with upright calla lilies, houses with verandahs, which are here and there being replaced by residences with piazzas.

To the careless eye the scene on the Main Street of a summer afternoon is one of deep and unbroken peace.

The empty street sleeps in the sunshine.

There is a horse and buggy tied to the hitching post in front of Glover’s hardware store.

There is, usually and commonly, the burly figure of Mr. Smith, proprietor of Smith’s Hotel, standing in his chequered waistcoat on the steps of his hostelry, and perhaps, further up the street, Lawyer Macartney going for his afternoon mail, or the Rev. Mr. Drone, the Rural Dean of the Church of England Church, going home to get his fishing rod after a mothers’ auxiliary meeting.

But this quiet is mere appearance.

In reality, and to those who know it, the place is a perfect hive of activity.

Why, at Netley’s butcher shop (established in 1882) there are no less than four men working on the sausage machines in the basement.

At the Newspacket office there are as many more job-printing.

There is a long distance telephone with four distracting girls on high stools wearing steel caps and talking incessantly.

In the offices in McCarthy’s Block are dentists and lawyers with their coats off, ready to work at any moment.

And from the big factory down beside the lake where the railroad siding is, you may hear all through the hours of the summer afternoon the long-drawn music of the running saw.

Busy —

Well, I should think so!

Ask any of its inhabitants if Mariposa isn’t a busy, hustling, thriving town.

Ask Mullins, the manager of the Exchange Bank, who comes hustling over to his office from the Mariposa House every day at 10.30 and has scarcely time all morning to go out and take a drink with the manager of the Commercial.

Or ask —

Well, for the matter of that, ask any of them if they ever knew a more rushing go-ahead town than Mariposa.

Of course if you come to the place fresh from New York, you are deceived.

Your standard of vision is all astray.

You do think the place is quiet.

You do imagine that Mr. Smith is asleep merely because he closes his eyes as he stands.

But live in Mariposa for six months or a year and then you will begin to understand it better.

The buildings get higher and higher.

The Mariposa House grows more and more luxurious.

McCarthy’s Block towers to the sky.

The buses roar and hum to the station.

The trains shriek.

The traffic multiplies.

The people move faster and faster.

A dense crowd swirls to and fro in the Post Office and the Five and Ten Cent Store —

And amusements!

Well, now!

Lacrosse, baseball, excursions, dances, the Fireman’s Ball every winter and the Catholic picnic every summer; and music — the town band in the park every Wednesday evening, and the Oddfellows’ brass band on the street every other Friday, the Mariposa Quartette, the Salvation Army —

Why, after a few months’ residence you begin to realize that the place is a mere mad round of gaiety.”

Meet the local people, if you can, to get a sense of a place.

Any opportunity to see how the locals live provides a person with invaluable background.

It is within family circles that you really grasp people’s relationships with one another, their relationship to their government, and their relationship to the rest of the world.

The food they serve you is important in more ways than your observation of the kind of food it is.

How it is served is a clue to the people’s lifestyle, as is who is eating?

Do the people speak freely?

Where do they play?

What do they play?

How do they play?

What do they eat?

Where do they eat?

Picnic in the park.

Go to the grocery store.

Go to the outdoor markets.

Stop in at the bakery and the butcher shop.

Soak up local colour at the laundromats.

Check out the department stores.

Visit the speciality shops, the bazaars, the suqs, the flea markets.

Get your haircut.

Join the congregation.

Attend an event and observe the crowd.

Welcome chance meetings.

Encourage chance encounters.

Get lost.

Listen to people’s recommendations.

Go to the bookstore.

Buy local publications.

The more people you talk to, the better feel you get for the place, the more you will learn about it and the more you will know the place.

And this is the great sadness I have with travelling with others.

Your world is limited to the circle wherein you travel.

To borrow from W.H. Auden’s Funeral Blues:

They become your North, your South, your East and West,

The journey itself and the following rest,

Your noon, your midnight, your talk, your song


You thought you were travelling, but you were wrong.

Above: Wystan Hugh Auden (1907 – 1973)

The best I can do to give a sense of the places I have visited in the company of others is to write what I have learned in as personable a way as I can, minus the encounters with locals that might have lent the place a connected context to the lives of my readers.

No, truth be told, the wife and I are tourists.

We will get in our car, drive quickly to our chosen destination, and check into a hotel – the nucleus of our new universe.

I do not condemn tourism, but it is not an exposure to life but rather an escape from it.

We descend three flights of stairs laden with luggage.

Bags tossed in the back of the car, Google Maps itinerary in hand (most scenic route if possible), GPS programmed nonetheless.

We are off on another “adventure“.

She is the love of my life, the bane of my existence.

The journey will be Heaven.

The journey will be Hell.

Fasten your seatbelt.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Mortimer J. Adler and Charles van Doren, How to Read a Book / Saul D. Alinsky, Rules for Radicals / W. H. Auden, “Funeral Blues” / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Charles Dickens, Great Expectations / Charles Dickens, The Pickwick Papers / Charles Dickens, The Uncommercial Traveller / Rolf Dobelli, Stop Reading the News / Stephen J. Dubner, “Quotes Uncovered: Who Said No Crisis Should Go to Waste?“, http://www.freakonomics.com, 13 August 2009 /Andrew Finkel, Turkey: What Everyone Needs to Know / Mark Hertsgaard, The Eagle’s Shadow: Why America Fascinates and Infuriates the World / Stephen Leacock, Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town / Luke McKernan, “Walking with Charles Dickens“, http://www.lukemckernan.com / Ann Morgan, Reading the World / Kenny Rogers, “The Gambler” / Isil Sariyuce, Sophie Tanno and Holly Yan, “Suspect in custody in Istanbul blast that killed 6 and injured 81, officials say“, http://www.cnn.com, 13 November 2022 / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Louise Purwin Zobel, The Travel Writer’s Handbook

Saved by nostalgia

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 13 November 2022

Last week, one of my Complimentary Class discussions was on inventions.

What was life before these inventions?

What were the most important inventions?

Reflecting on today and imagining tomorrow.

I am not a modern Luddite, but I have always maintained that for every gain gotten from technology there is also an accompanying loss as well.

(The Luddites were a secret oath-based organization of English textile workers in the 19th century who formed a radical faction which destroyed textile machinery.

The group are believed to have taken their name from Ned Ludd, a legendary weaver supposedly from Anstey, near Leicester.

They protested against manufacturers who used machines in what they called “a fraudulent and deceitful manner” to get around standard labour practices.

Luddites feared that the time spent learning the skills of their craft would go to waste, as machines would replace their role in the industry.)

I am even willing to argue that even the invention of the wheel came with its losses.

Walking is an activity that requires openness, engagement and few expenses,

The wheel has evolved into the closed automobile, road rage and endless expense.

Above: An early wheel made of a solid piece of wood

I quote directly now from one of my favourite books from one of my favourite writers:

The new millennium arrived as a dialectic between secrecy and openness, between consolidation and dispersal of power, between privatization and public ownership, power and life.

Walking has ever been on the side of the latter.

On 15 February 2003, police estimated three quarters of a million took to the streets of London, though organizers thought two million a more accurate figure.

Above: London anti-war protest, 15 February 2003

50,000 walked in Glasgow, 100,000 in Dublin, 300,000 in Berlin, 3 million in Rome, 100,000 in Paris, 1.5 million in Barcelona and 2 million in Madrid.

South American demonstrations in Rio de Janeiro, Buenos Aires, Santiago and other cities took place that day.

Walkers gathered in Seoul, Tokyo, Tel Aviv, Baghdad, Karachi, Detroit, Cape Town, Calcutta, Istanbul, Montréal, Mexico City, New York, San Francisco, Sydney, Vancouver, Moscow, Tehran, Copenhagen….

But to name only the large cities is to overlook the passion in Toulouse, Malta, in small town New Mexico and Bolivia, in the Inuit homeland of northern Canada, in Montevideo, Mostar, in Sfax, Tunisia (where the marchers were beaten by the police), in Chicoutimi, Québec (where the wind chill factor brought the temperature down to -40°C), and on Ross Island, Antarctica (where the scientists did not walk far, but posed for antiwar photographs to testify that even the seventh continent was on board).

The global walk of more than 30 million people prompted the New York Times to call civil society “the world’s other superpower“.

That day, 15 February 2003, did not stop the war against Iraq, though it might have changed the war’s parameters.

Turkey, for example, under heavy citizen pressure declined to let its air bases be used for the assault.

Above: Flag of Turkey

The 21st century has dawned as an era of people power and public protest.

In Latin America, in particular, that power had been very tangible, toppling regimes, undoing coups, protecting resources from foreign profiteers.

From students in Belgrade to farmers in Korea, collective public acts have mattered.

Above: Demonstration against Iranian President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad in Rio during Rio+20 conference

Walking itself has not changed the world, but walking together has been a rite, tool and reinforcement of the civil society that can stand up to violence, to fear, and to repression.

Indeed, it is hard to imagine a viable civil society without the free association and the knowledge of the terrain that comes with walking.

A sequestered or passive population is not quite a citizenry.

Above: Hundreds of thousands descended on Washington, DC’s, Lincoln Memorial, 28 August 1963.

It was from the steps of the memorial that Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. delivered his famous I Have a Dream speech.

King’s many speeches and nonviolent actions were instrumental in shaping the nation’s outlook on equality.

The 50,000 person march in Seattle that culminated in a shutdown of the 1990 World Trade Organization (WTO) meeting on 30 November 1999 was one start of a new era in which a global movement stood up against the corporate version of globalization, with its threats to the local, to the democratic, to the unhomogenized and to the independent.

Above: WTO protests in Seattle, 30 November 1999 – Police pepper spray the crowd.

9/11 and the collapse of the World Trade Towers is the other date usually selected as the stormy dawn of the new millennium.

Perhaps the most profound response to that terrorism was the first:

Tens of thousands of New Yorkers who walked away from danger together, on foot, as citizens familiar with their streets and as human beings willing to offer aid to strangers, filling avenues like a grim parade, turning the Brooklyn Bridge into a pedestrian route, eventually turning Union Square into an agora for public mourning and public debate.

Above: Brooklyn Bridge, New York City, 11 September 2001

Those hundreds of thousands living in public, unarmed, engaged and equal, were the opposite of the secrecy and violence that characterized both the attacks and Bush’s revenge (and unrelated war in Iraq).

Above: As Dan Bartlett, Deputy Assistant to the President, points to news footage of the World Trade Center, US President George W. Bush gathers information about the terrorist attack from a classroom at Emma E. Booker Elementary School in Sarasota, Florida.

Also pictured from left are: CIA daily briefer Michael Morell, Director of the White House Situation Room Deborah Loewer and Senior Adviser Karl Rove.

That much of the antiwar movement has also consisted of massive groups of walkers is not coincidental.

The best evidence of the potency of unarmed people walking together in the streets is the aggressive measures taken in the US and in the UK to control or altogether stop these crowds at the Republican National Convention in New York in August 2004, in Gleneagles (Scotland) during the G8 Summit a year later, as well as at any corporate globalization conference since 1999, be it the WTO, the International Monetary Fund (IMF), the World Bank, the World Economic Forum or the G8.

Above: Republican National Convention protests, Madison Square Garden, New York City, 30 August – 2 September 2004

Above: Gleneagles (Scotland) G8 Summit protests, 6 – 8 July 2005

Above: Map of G8 countries and the European Union

These summits at which the power of the few is openly pitted against that of the many have routinely acquired that temporary police states be built around them, with millions of pounds, dollars, euros, francs, yen or yuan spent on security forces, armaments, surveillance, fences and barriers.

A world brutalized in defense of brutal policy.

Against unarmed walkers.

But more insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space, and will to walk, and against the version of humanity that act embodies.

One force is the filling-up as “the time between“, the time of walking to or from a place, of meandering, of running errands.

That time has been deplored as a waste, reduced, and its remainder filled with earphones playing music and mobile phones relaying conversations.

The very ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the useless, often seems to be evaporating, as does appreciation of being outside – including outside the familiar.

Mobile phone conversations seem to serve as a buffer against solitude, silence, thought, and encounters with the unknown.

Technology, as such, is hard to finger as a culprit, since the global march of 15 February 2003 was coordinated on the Internet.

But technology’s commercial deployment is often against those things that are free in both senses monetary and political.

Obesity and its related health crises is becoming more and more of a pandemic as people in more parts of the world become immobilized and overfed from childhood on.

A downward spiral where the inactive body becomes less and less capable of action.

That obesity is not just circumstantial – due to a world of digital amusements and parking lots, of sprawl and suburbs – but conceptual in origin, as people forget that their bodies could be adequate to the challenges that face them and a pleasure to use.

They perceive and imagine their bodies as essentially passive, a treasure or a burden, but not a tool for work and travel.

Promotional material for motorized Segway scooters, for example, asserts that travelling short distances in cities and even warehouses is a challenge that only machines can solve.

The inadequacy of feet alone to go the distance has been erased, along with the millennia we got around before machines.

The fight against this collapse of imagination and engagement may be as important as the battles for political freedom, because only by recuperating a sense of inherent power can we begin to resist both oppressions and the erosion of the vital body in action.

Above: Scene from Pixar/Disney film WALL-E (2008)

As the climate heats up and oil runs out, this recovery is going to be very important, more important perhaps than alternative fuels and the other modes of continuing down the motorized route rather than reclaiming the alternatives.

Most industrial zone human beings need to rethink time, space, and their own bodies before they will be engaged to be as urbane and as pedestrian as their predecessors.

While walking, the body and the mind can work together, so that thinking becomes almost a physical, rhythmic act.

Spirituality and sexuality both enter in.

The great walkers often move through both urban and rural places in the same way.

Past and present are brought together when you walk as the Ancients did or relive some event in history or your own life by retracing its route.

Each walk moves through space like a thread through fabric, sewing it up together into a continuous experience – so unlike the way airplanes, cars and train travel chop up time and space.

This continuity is one of the things we lost in the Industrial Age.

But we can choose to reclaim it, again and again.

And some do.

The fields and streets are waiting.

Like walking, like record players and VHS tapes and vinyl records, landline phones are being embraced by nostalgic fans as an antidote to an increasingly digital way of life.

First came the rhinestone-encrusted rotary.

Then the cherry-red lips.

After that, the cheeseburger.

By the summer of 2021, Chanell Karr had amassed a collection of six landline phones.

Her most recent, an orange corded model made as a promotional item for the 1986 film Pretty in Pink was purchased in June 2021.

Though Karr has only one of them – a more subdued V-Tech phone – hooked up, all are in working order.

During the pandemic, I wanted to disconnect from all of the things that distract you on a Smartphone.“, said Karr (30), who works in marketing and ticketing at a music venue near her home in Alexandria, Kentucky.

I just wanted to get back to the original analog ways of having a landline.

Once a kitchen staple, bedside companion, and plot device on sitcoms, such as Sex and the City and Seinfeld, the landline phone has all but been replaced by its newer smarter wireless counterpart.

In 2003, more than 90% of respondents to a survey conducted by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) said they had an operational landline in their homes.

As of June 2021, that number – which includes Internet-connected phones and those wired the old-fashioned way (via copper lines running from a home to a local junction box) – had dropped to just over 30%.

But like record players and VHS tapes, landline phones are being embraced by nostalgic fans who say their non-scrollable and non-strollable nature is an antidote to screen fatigue and over-multitasking.

The crescent shape of many phone receivers, users say, is a more natural comfortable fit against a cheek than the planar body of a Smartphone.

And with a non-cordless device, one must commit more to the act of the conversation.

The phone call becomes more intentional.

In January 2022, Emily Kennedy, a communications manager in the Canadian public service, started using an old Calamine-lotion-pink rotary phone from her father’s office as a way to detach from her work in social media.

Ironically, it was on Twitter where Kennedy got the idea.

Above: Logo of American social networking site, Twitter

When Rachel Syme, a staff writer at the New Yorker tweeted in January about a landline phone that she had hooked up via Bluetooth, Kennedy was one of many who replied saying that Syme had inspired them to set up one of their own.

Having my old phone as an object in my house is an identity signal that I like a slower pace.”, said Kennedy (38) who lives in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.

Like Syme and many other modern users of analog phones, Kennedy doesn’t have her landline copper-wired – so it doesn’t have its own number – but uses a Bluetooth attachment to connect it to her Smartphone’s cellular service.

(In other words, when she is connected, she can take a cellphone call on the landline.)

Matt Jennings has worked at Old Phone Works, a company in Kingston, Ontario, that refurbishes and sells landline phones, since 2011.

Now its general manager, Jennings (35) said that in the past two years, customers’ demand for candy-coloured rotary phones from the 1950s and 1960s has skyrocketed.

Almost a year and a half ago, it absolutely exploded.”, Jennings said.

Over the past six or seven years, we might get one or two orders for them.

Now it is probably one of our primary sources of revenue.”

Of what has motivated the recent desire for landline phones, it is a return to basics.”, Jennings said.

You can’t really go anywhere with a corded phone.

You are basically stuck within a three-foot radius of the base.

You can have a real conversation without being distracted.

As appealing as landline phones may be, even their most ardent fans recognize it is basically impossible to use them exclusively.

Alex McConnell (28), a personal banker at Key Bank in Fort Collins, Colorado, has a Western Electric rotary phone wired to copper lines at his home.

On 14 February 2022, McConnell did not celebrate Valentine’s Day, but the 146th anniversary of Alexander Graham Bell submitting the patent application for the telephone.

Above: Alexander Graham Bell (1847 – 1922)

I prepared a meal with Bell peppers and Graham crackers.“, McConnell said.

Then I made a circular cake that I used blue icing to put the Bell logo on and the original patent number for the telephone.

His landline phone is not only more reliable than a cellphone, McConnell said, but also encouraged him to memorize friends’ phone numbers, which he considers a form of intimacy.

Since I actually have to dial my friends’ phone numbers, I find it really does help me connect them to memory.“, McConnell said.

But even he cannot avoid the call of modern life.

My secret sorrow is that I do have a cellphone.

What is not mentioned here in this article is what is considered an advantage of a mobile phone is for me a great disadvantage of this technology – mobility.

Certainly, I can see the advantages of a mobile phone for emergencies.

You have an accident on the road or you are unavoidably late for a meeting, then a mobile phone is truly a useful tool to have.

But this is how technology should be viewed, in my opinion, as a tool handy to have when needed, but not as something we are totally dependent upon, that we are totally addicted to.

I view a mobile phone much as I view a hammer.

I am glad I have one, but I do not want to use it all the time for everything.

I also do not wish to have it on all the time.

There is a certain freedom in not being contactable, to decide when I will choose to reach out to the world, rather than having the world disturb me whenever it so chooses.

And I admit there is something unsettling about knowing that my phone can be used to locate me wherever I am.

Does the world need to know where I am all the time?

I have nothing to hide, but there is a feeling of freedom in going where I want without wondering whether or not my choice of location might cause someone’s disapproval.

I enjoy social media, but in small doses.

I do not want to become one of those people whose first waking and every subsequent moment is to check their phone for messages, news or social media postings.

I like, what my students call “old people’s media“, Facebook, for it allows me more freedom and length of expression than I have seen in other modern applications.

But there is often more negativity expressed on social media than positivity, so I judiciously limit my exposure to it.

I don’t have a landline, for wandering freelance teachers cannot be trusted to remain for too long in one location.

But at home, I keep my cellphone in a different room than the one I am in, with it on in vibration mode only.

Those far from me know that I will eventually return their calls or respond to their messages.

My employer, a mere 15-minute walk from my apartment, can reach me when the vibrations are heard against the wooden counter of my kitchen in my silent lodgings.

I am not uncomfortable with silence.

I welcome it.

I try to wean myself of the habit of looking at my phone during idle moments and I try to resist the urge to monitor the news, which for the most part, is generally not a very positive addiction to have or anything I have any control over.

I do not advocate my habits to others.

I simply say what I do and if someone wishes to emulate me then that is their privilege not my pressure.

I will be honest here.

I am not sure if I like political commentator/comedian Bill Maher or not, but, give the Devil his due, he does say things that are thought provoking.

Above: Bill Maher

Recent comments about Tuesday 8 November (US Midterm Election Day) have made me ponder the wisdom beneath his bluster.

Well, we had a good run.

As everything in America is about to change in a very fundamental way, rules are about to go out the window.

Tuesday is Election Day.

I know I should tell you to vote in what is, honest to God, the most important election ever.

So, OK, you should vote.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

And it should be for the one party that still stands for democracy’s preservation.

Above: Logo of the US Democratic Party

But it is also a waste of breath, because if anyone who believes that is already voting, and the one who needs to learn isn’t watching, and no one in America can be persuaded of anything anymore anyway.

The 6 January hearings turns out changed nobody’s mind.

Above: A crowd erected gallows hangs near the United States Capitol during the 2021 storming of the United States Capitol

Democrat Jamie Raskin said the hearings would tell a story that would really blow the roof off the house.

Above: Jamie Raskin

No, that was Hurricane Ian.

Above: Hurricane Ian on 28 September 2022

The hearings proved not long, the Committee did a masterful job laying out the case that we live in a partisan America now, so it is like doing stand up when half the crowd only speaks Mandarin.

No matter how good the material is, it is not going to go over.

After all the hearings, the percentage of Americans who thought Trump did nothing wrong went UP 3 points.

That is America now.

Above: Donald Trump (US President: 2017 – 2021)

It is liking to win an argument in a marriage.

Even when you are right it still gets you nothing.

Ben Franklin said:

“America is a republic, if you can keep it.”

Well, we can’t.

Above: Benjamin Franklin (1706 – 1790)

Unless a miracle happens on Tuesday, we didn’t.

Democracy is on the ballot and unfortunately it is going to lose.

And once it is gone, it is gone.

It is not something you can change your mind about and reverse.

Republicans will take control of Congress and next year they will begin impeaching Biden and never stop.

“How” won’t matter and it won’t make sense, but Biden will be a crippled duck when he goes up before the 2024 Trump – Kari Lake ticket.

Above: Kari Lake

And even if Trump loses, it doesn’t matter.

On Inaugural Day 2025, he is going to show up whether he is on the list or not.

This time he is not going to take No for an answer, because this time he will have behind him the army of election deniers that is being elected on Tuesday.

There are almost 300 candidates on the ballot this year who don’t believe in ballots and they will be the ones writing the rules and monitoring how votes are counted in 2024.

The facts, the policies, the behaviour don’t matter to anyone anymore.

Trump could be filmed throwing a baby off a bridge and still win.

This really is the crossing of the Rubicon moment when the election deniers are elected which is often how countries slide into authoritarianism, not with tanks in the streets, but by electing the people who then have no intention of ever giving it back.

Above: Julius Caesar (100 – 44 BCE), depicted as pausing on the banks of the Rubicon, 10 January 49 BCE –

The phrase “crossing the Rubicon” is an idiom that means “passing a point of no return“.

Its meaning comes from allusion to the crossing of the river Rubicon by Julius Caesar.

His crossing of the river precipitated civil war, which ultimately led to Caesar’s becoming dictator for life (dictator perpetuo).

Caesar had been appointed to a governorship over a region that ranged from southern Gaul to Illyricum.

As his term of governorship ended, the Senate ordered him to disband his army and return to Rome.

As it was illegal to bring armies into Italy (the northern border of which was marked by the river Rubicon) his crossing the river under arms amounted to insurrection, treason and a declaration of war on the state.

According to some authors, he uttered the phrase alea iacta est (“the die is cast“) before crossing.

The Republican up for Wisconsin governor just said that if elected Republicans will never lose another election.

Above: Tim Michels, Republican nominee in 2022 Wisconsin gubernatorial election

This is how it happens.

Hitler was elected.

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

So was Mussolini, Putin, Erdoğan and Viktor Orban.

Above: Benito Mussolini (1883 – 1945)

Above: Russian President Vladimir Putin

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Above: Hungarian Prime Minister Viktor Orbán

This is the “it can’t happen to us” moment that is happening to us right now.

We just don’t feel it yet.

We are the Titanic just after the iceberg hit.

Above: RMS Titanic leaves Southampton, England, 10 April 1912

And, honestly, too many Americans just don’t care and won’t even care after it happens, because they never followed politics to begin with.

They were never taught in school what democratic government was supposed to look like.

So how can they be at losing something they never knew they had?

You could try and tell them that we will no longer have a system of checks and balances.

They will have an answer for that:

“What’s checks and balances?”

Above: Checks and balances

Democracy’s hard.

Athens did not have to deal with Fox News or the Smart phone that made everybody stupid, and they only lasted 200 years.

So, our 246 doesn’t look so bad.

Above: The Acropolis, Athens, Greece

But before we do go, I would like to say a little farewell to some of the things that really did make America great now we are going to lose forever.

Like the peaceful transfer of power, the jewel in our crown, that thing that so many other nations couldn’t pull off and we always did.

Oh, well.

Above: Crown Jewels of Austria

The Bill of Rights –

When there is no accountability in the ballot box there are no actual rights.

Above: Draft of the US Bill of Rights

Look, Generalissimo Trump is not going to bring back child labour or end social security or resegregate the water fountains.

Above: African-American man drinking at a “colored” drinking fountain in a streetcar terminal in Oklahoma City, 1939

He doesn’t hate Jews.

Above: “Selection” of Hungarian Jews on the ramp at Auschwitz II – Birkenau in German-occupied Poland, around May 1944.

Jews were sent either to work or to the gas chamber.

The photograph is part of the collection known as the Auschwitz Album.

The Auschwitz Album is the only surviving visual evidence of the process leading to mass murder at Auschwitz-Birkenau.

The album was found it in the Mittelbau – Dora concentration camp in 1945.

But make no mistake it will be an entirely different way of life for many because our elections will just be for show, like China or Russia or any other places Trump says are “strong”.

Above: Flag of Russia

Above: Flag of China

Above: Flag of North Korea

Free speech?

Well, he’s a man who has always taken criticism well.

But I won’t count on that one lasting.

I wouldn’t count on freedom of religion lasting.

Q-Anon and the other shock troops of the Trump takeover of the Republican Party are all quasi-religious entities who want a Christian government.

Above: QAnon flag featuring the Q logo and the movement’s prominent slogan “Where we go one, we go all“, at a Second Amendment rally in Richmond, Virginia, 20 January 2020

Above: Logo of the US Republican Party

Oh, and the FBI might be replaced by an army of Proud Boys under the leadership of Michael Flynn.

Above: Logo of the Proud Boys, an American far-right, neo-fascist, white nationalist, and exclusively male organization that promotes and engages in political violence in the US.

It has been called a street gang and was designated as a terrrorist group in Canada and New Zealand.

The Proud Boys are known for their opposition to left wing and progressive groups and their support for former US President Donald Trump.

Above: Michael Flynn, a retired US Army Lieutenant General who was the 24th US National Security Advisor for the first 22 days of the Trump administration, he resigned in light of reports that he had lied regarding conversations with the Russian ambassador to the US Sergey Kislyak.

Flynn’s military career included a key role in shaping US counterterrorism strategy and dismantling insurgent networks in the Afghanistan and Iraq Wars.

He was given numerous combat arms, conventional and special operations senior intelligence assignments.

He became the 18th director of the Defense Intelligence Agency in July 2012 until his forced retirement from the military in August 2014.

During his tenure he gave a lecture on leadership at the Moscow headquarters of the Russian military intelligence directorate GRU (the foreign military intelligence agency of the General Staff of the Armed Forces of the Russian Federation), the first American official to be admitted entry to the headquarters.

After leaving the military, in October 2014 he established Flynn Intel Group, which provided intelligence services for businesses and governments, including in Turkey.

In December 2015, Flynn was paid $45,000 to deliver a Moscow speech at the ten-year anniversary celebration of RT (a state-controlled Russian international television network), where he sat next to Russian President Vladimir Putin at his banquet table.

In February 2016, Flynn became a national security advisor to Trump for his 2016 presidential campaign.

In March 2017, Flynn retroactively registered as a foreign agent, acknowledging that in 2016 he had conducted paid lobbying work that may have benefited Turkey’s government.

On 22 January 2017, Flynn was sworn in as the National Security Advisor.

On 13 February 2017, he resigned after information surfaced that he had misled Vice President Mike Pence and others about the nature and content of his communications with Sergey Kislyak.

Flynn’s tenure as the National Security Advisor is the shortest in the history of the position.

In December 2017, Flynn formalized a deal with Special Counsel Robert Mueller to plead guilty to a felony count of “willfully and knowingly” making false statements to the FBI about the Kislyak communications.

He agreed to cooperate with the Special Counsel’s investigation.

In June 2019, Flynn dismissed his attorneys and retained Sidney Powell, who on the same day wrote to Attorney General Bill Barr seeking his assistance in exonerating Flynn.

Powell had discussed the case on Fox News and spoken to President Trump about it on several occasions.

Two weeks before his scheduled sentencing, in January 2020 Flynn moved to withdraw his guilty plea, claiming government vindictiveness and breach of the plea agreement.

At Barr’s direction, the Justice Department filed a court motion to drop all charges against Flynn on 7 May 2020.

Presiding federal judge Emmet Sullivan ruled the matter to be placed on hold to solicit amicus curiae (a person or organization who requests to provide legal submissions so as to offer a relevant alternative or additional perspective regarding the matters in dispute). briefs from third parties.

Powell then asked the DC Circuit Court of Appeals to compel Sullivan to drop the case, but her request was denied.

On 25 November 2020, Flynn was issued a presidential pardon by Trump.

On 8 December 2020, Judge Sullivan dismissed the criminal case against Flynn, stating he probably would have denied the Justice Department motion to drop the case.

On 4 July 2020, Flynn pledged an oath to the pro-Trump QAnon conspiracy theory.

As Trump sought to overturn the results of the 2020 presidential election in which he was defeated, Flynn suggested the President should suspend the Constitution, silence the press, and hold a new election under military authority.

Flynn later met with Trump and their attorney Powell in the Oval Office to discuss the President’s options.

Trump denied reports that Flynn’s martial law idea had been discussed. 

On 8 January 2021, Twitter permanently banned Flynn, Powell and others who promoted QAnon.

Flynn has since become a prominent leader in a Christian nationalist movement, organizing and recruiting for what he characterizes as a spiritual and political war.

Things will not be decided by the rule of law.

That one was a real jewel.

Maybe our finest hour as Americans was after World War II when we gave the defeated Nazis fair trial just as Robert Jackson said:

“Voluntarily submitting our captive enemies to the judgment of the law was one of the most significant tributes that Power has ever paid to Reason.”

Above: Judges’ panel of the international military tribunal, Nuremberg Trials, 30 November 1945 – 1 October 1946

Well, Power will soon not be paying any more tributes to Reason.

Not in America anyway.

Above: Chief US prosecutor at the Nuremberg Trials, Robert Jackson (1892 – 1954)

So, I urge you to vote, but I have always been a realist.

I’m afraid that democracy is like the McRib:

It’s here now, it will be around for a little bit longer, so enjoy it while you can.

Above: McDonald’s McRib sandwich, as bought in America

There is a manner about Maher that is somewhat abrasive to me, but sometimes harshness is required when delivering an important message.

He speaks unsettling inconvenient truth to the apathetic and the ignorant who have the courage to watch him and ponder what he has to say.

He targets many topics including religion, political correctness, and the mass media.

He is a supporter of animal rights, the legalization of cannabis, birth control and universal health care.

He has been unafraid to speak his mind, regardless of how politically incorrect he may appear.

He controversially suggested that the 9/11 terrorists did not act in a cowardly manner (in rebuttal to President Bush’s statement calling them cowards).

Maher said:

We have been the cowards.

Lobbing cruise missiles from 2,000 miles away.

That’s cowardly.

Staying in the airplane when it hits the building.

Say what you want about it.

Not cowardly.

Above: Rescue workers climb over and dig through piles of rubble from the destroyed World Trade Center as the American flag billows over the debris. 19 Septmeber 2001, New York City

Maher later clarified that his comment was not anti-military in any way whatsoever, referencing his well-documented longstanding support for the American military.

Above: The Pentagon, headquarters of the US Department of Defense, Arlington, Virginia

In late May 2005, Alabama Congressman Spencer Bachus sent a letter to Time Warner’s board of directors requesting Maher’s show Real Time be cancelled after remarks Maher made after noting the military had missed its recruiting goals by 42%.

Bachus said he felt the comments were demeaning to the military and treasonous.

Maher stated his highest regard and support for the troops and asked why the Congressman criticized him instead of doing something about the recruitment problem.

Above: Congressman Spencer Bachus

Above: Logo of Warner Media (1972 – 2022), formerly Time Warner

Maher often eschews political labels, referring to himself as “practical“. 

He identifies as liberal and stands against political correctness.

In his words:

The difference is that liberals protect people and PC people protect feelings.

Maher counts himself as a “9/11 liberal“, noting that he differentiates himself from many mainstream liberals in saying that not all religions are alike and that he is not bigoted in criticizing a particular religion.

He said in a later interview:

It’s ridiculous to label criticism of a religion as a phobia of a religion.

I’m going to criticize any person or group that violates liberal principles.”

(I agree with Maher here in respect to criticizing religion.

For example, I am not opposed to a Muslim woman wearing or not wearing a hijab or head covering, if it is her choice.)

Above: Iranian women wearing hijab in Tehran, 4 May 2017

Maher favours the ending of corporate welfare (the government’s bestowal of money grants, tax breaks or other special favourable treatment for corporations) and federal funding of non-profits.

Above: Ralph Nader, an American political activist, author, lecturer, and attorney noted for his involvement in consumer protection, environmentalism, and government reform causes.

The term “corporate welfare” was reportedly coined in 1956 by him.

Maher also favors the legalization of gambling and prostitution.

Above: Caraveggio’s The Cardsharps (1594)

(I agree with the first sentence (above Nader).

I need to consider soberly the wisdom or folly of the second.)

Above: Auguste Rodin’s The Thinker, Paris, France

Maher describes himself as an environmentalist.

He has spoken in favor of the Kyoto Treaty on Global Warming on his show Real Time.

(The Kyoto Protocol was an international treaty which extended the 1992 UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) that commits state parties to reduce greenhouse gas emissions, based on the scientific consensus that global warming is occurring and that manmade CO2 emissions are driving it.

The Kyoto Protocol was adopted in Kyoto, Japan on 11 December 1997 and entered into force on 16 February 2005.

There were 192 parties to the Protocol in 2020.)

Above: Kiyomizu Temple, Kyoto, Japan

Maher often criticizes industry figures involved in environmental pollution.

(A valid discussion worthy of future commentary here.)

Maher has been critical of the #MeToo movement (a social movement against sexual abuse, sexual harassment and rape culture, in which people publicize their experiences of sexual abuse or sexual harassment), describing it in February 2018 as McCarthyite (the practice of making false or unfounded accusations especially when done in a public and attention-grabbing manner).

Above: Joseph McCarthy (1908 – 1957)

Above: Typical US anti-communist literature of the 1950s, specifically addressing the entertainment industry

Although Maher welcomed Obama’s electoral victory, he subjected him to criticism after he took office for not acting more boldly on health care reform and other progressive issues.

Above: Barack Obama (US President: 2009 – 2017)

In August 2019, Maher said an economic recession would be “worth it” if Donald Trump does not get re-elected in 2020.

He said:

We have survived many recessions.

We can’t survive another Donald Trump term.

Above: Will the real Donald Trump please shut up, please shut up?

Maher highlighted Trump’s own public references to Maher’s assertions that Trump was “not going to leave” and quoted Trump’s 14 March 2019, assertion that “I have the support of the police, the military, the bikers” and “the tough people“, citing this as evidence that Trump would seek to remain in office by force.

Above: Outside during the US Capitol during the 6 January 2021 attack on the building

Maher predicted there would be violence by armed Trump supporters attempting to keep Trump in power and criticized Democratic Party politicians for not taking the threat seriously:

So my question to all Democratic candidates is:

What’s the plan?

If you win, and the next day he claims he’s voiding the election because of irregularities he’s hearing about, what do you do?

What do you do when the crowd marches on Washington?

This is a scary moment.

And when I’ve asked Democrats:

‘What do we do if he doesn’t go?’

Their answer is always some variation of ‘We have to win big!’

First of all:

NO!

No, we don’t have to win by a landslide!

I am so sick of Democrats volunteering to play by two different sets of rules.

That’s the new paradigm?

Republicans can win by one vote, but we’re not legitimate unless it’s a landslide?

And two:

Do you really think it would matter if it was?

That they would suddenly get rational about math and facts?

They believe Hillary Clinton ran a pedophile ring out of a pizza parlor!

Above: Hillary Clinton

On 16 April 2021, Maher called media coverage of the COVID-19 pandemic “panic porn” and added that:

When all of our sources for medical information have an agenda to spin us, yeah, you wind up with a badly misinformed population, including on the left.”

In regards to his comments on these 2022 US Midterm Elections, regardless of the results, I am cautious of fully agreeing with his alarmist sentiments of the inevitability of a Republican win leading to the loss of democracy in America.

That being said, there are certain uncomfortable truths in his voicing his concerns about the threat demagogues such as Trump pose.

Maher’s refers indirectly to Sinclair Lewis here.

Above: Sinclair Lewis (1885 – 1951)

It Can’t Happen Here is a 1935 dystopian political novel, which describes the rise of a US dictator similar to how Adolf Hitler gained power.

In 1936, Senator Berzelius “Buzz” Windrip, a charismatic and power-hungry politician from an unnamed US state, enters the presidential election campaign on a populist platform, promising to restore the country to prosperity and greatness.

Portraying himself as a champion of “the forgotten man” (a political concept in the US centered around those whose interests have been neglected) and traditional American values, Windrip defeats President Franklin Delano Roosevelt for the Democratic nomination, and then easily beats his Republican opponent, Senator Walt Trowbridge, in the November election.

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945)

Although having previously foreshadowed some authoritarian measures to reorganize the US government, Windrip rapidly outlaws dissent, incarcerates political enemies in concentration camps, and trains and arms a paramilitary force called the Minute Men (named after the Revolutionary War militias of the same name), who terrorize citizens and enforce the policies of Windrip and his corporatist (a political system in which the economy is collectively managed by employers, workers and state officials by formal mechanisms at the national level, wherein its supporters claim that corporatism could better recognize or “incorporate” every divergent interest into the state organically, unlike majority-rules democracy which could marginalize specific interests.) regime.

Above: The Lexington Minuteman, Lexington, Massachusetts

One of Windrip’s first acts as President is to eliminate the influence of the US Congress, which draws the ire of many citizens as well as the legislators themselves.

The Minute Men respond to protests against Windrip’s decisions harshly, attacking demonstrators with bayonets.

In addition to these actions, Windrip’s administration, known as the Corpo government, curtails women’s and minority rights, and eliminates individual states by subdividing the country into administrative sectors (akin to The Hunger Games).

The government of these sectors is managed by Corpo authorities, usually prominent businessmen or Minute Men officers.

Those accused of crimes against the government appear before kangaroo courts  presided over by military judges.

(A kangaroo court is a court that ignores recognized standards of law or justice, carries little or no official standing in the territory within which it resides, and is typically convened ad hoc.

A kangaroo court may ignore due process and come to a predetermined conclusion.

The term may also apply to a court held by a legitimate judicial authority which intentionally disregards the court’s legal or ethical obligations, such as a show trial.

A kangaroo court court could also develop when the structure and operation of the forum result in an inferior brand of adjudication.

A common example of this is when institutional disputants (“repeat players“) have excessive and unfair structural advantages over individual disputants (“one-shot players“).

The term comes from the notion of justice proceeding “by leaps“, like a kangaroo – in other words, “jumping over” (intentionally ignoring) evidence that would be in favour of the defendant.)

Despite these dictatorial and “quasi-draconian” measures, a majority of Americans approve of them, seeing them as painful but necessary steps to restore US power.

(Make America great again…..)

Open opponents of Windrip, led by Senator Trowbridge, form an organization called the New Underground (named after the Underground Railroad), helping dissidents escape to Canada and distributing anti-Windrip propaganda.

One recruit to the New Underground is Doremus Jessup, the novel’s protagonist, a traditional liberal and an opponent of both corporatist and communist theories, the latter of which Windrip’s administration suppresses.

Above: The Underground Railroad was not an actual railroad, but a network of secret routes and safe houses used by black slaves in the United States to escape to free states and Canada.

Jessup’s participation in the organization results in the publication of a periodical called The Vermont Vigilance, in which he writes editorials decrying Windrip’s abuses of power.

(Even before Windrip’s election, Jessup brings up the possibility of fascism coming to America, but Francis Tasbrough, the wealthy owner of a quarry in Jessup’s hometown of Fort Beulah, Vermont, dismisses it with the remark that it simply “can’t happen here“, hence the novel’s title.)

Above: Flag of Vermont

Shad Ledue, the local district commissioner and Jessup’s former hired man, resents his old employer.

Ledue eventually discovers Jessup’s actions and has him sent to a concentration camp.

Ledue subsequently terrorizes Jessup’s family and particularly his daughter Sissy, whom he unsuccessfully attempts to seduce.

Sissy discovers evidence of corrupt dealings on the part of Ledue, which she exposes to Francis Tasbrough, a one-time friend of Jessup and Ledue’s superior in the administrative hierarchy.

Tasbrough has Ledue imprisoned in the same camp as Jessup, where inmates Ledue had sent there organize Ledue’s murder.

After a relatively brief incarceration, Jessup escapes when his friends bribe one of the camp guards.

He flees to Canada, where he rejoins the New Underground.

He later serves the organization as a spy, passing along information and urging locals to resist Windrip.

Above: Flag of Canada

In time, Windrip’s hold on power weakens as the economic prosperity he promised does not materialize, and increased numbers of disillusioned Americans, including Vice President Perley Beecroft, flee to both Canada and Mexico.

Windrip also angers his Secretary of State, Lee Sarason, who had served earlier as his chief political operative and adviser.

Sarason and Windrip’s other lieutenants, including General Dewey Haik, seize power and exile the President to France.

Above: Flag of France

Sarason succeeds Windrip, but his extravagant and relatively weak rule creates a power vacuum in which Haik and others vie for power.

In a bloody putsch, Haik leads a party of military supporters into the White House, kills Sarason and his associates, and proclaims himself President.

The two coups cause a slow erosion of Corpo power, and Haik’s government desperately tries to arouse patriotism by launching an unjustified invasion of Mexico.

After slandering Mexico in state-run newspapers, Haik orders a mass conscription of young American men for the invasion of that country, infuriating many who had until then been staunch Corpo loyalists.

Riots and rebellions break out across the country, with many realizing the Corpos have misled them.

Above: Flag of Mexico

General Emmanuel Coon, among Haik’s senior officers, defects to the opposition with a large portion of his army, giving strength to the resistance movement.

Although Haik remains in control of much of the country, civil war soon breaks out as the resistance tries to consolidate its grasp on the Midwest.

The novel ends after the beginning of the conflict, with Jessup working as an agent for the New Underground in Corpo-occupied portions of southern Minnesota.

Above: Flag of Minnesota

What worries me about Lewis’ book and George Orwell’s Nineteen Eighty-four is that these were meant as cautionary tales, not instruction manuals.

I think that should Maher be as prescient about the outcome of the Midterms as he was about Trump’s reactions to losing the 2020 Presidential Elections, then a return to the past may hold a kernel of hope for the future.

Maher gives as one reason that too many Americans just don’t care about politics is that they were never taught in school what democratic government was supposed to look like.

I think therein lies a solution:

Education.

To be more precise, self-education.

Self-education converts a world which only a good world for those who can win at its ruthless game into a world good for all of us.

If there is one piece of advice I would like to share with my readers, from Max Schuster to Ronald Gross to you, it is that you should begin at once to choose some subject, some concept, some great idea (such as democracy) or event in history on which you can make yourself the world’s supreme expert.

Start a crash program immediately to qualify yourself for this self-assignment through reading, research and reflection.

I don’t mean the sort of expert who avoids all the small errors as he sweeps on to the grand fallacy.

I mean one who has the most knowledge, the deepest insight and the most audacious willingness to break new ground.

We must somehow figure out how to be a democracy of the intellect.

Knowledge must sit in the homes and heads of people with no ambition to control others and not up in the isolated seats of power.

Only if the adventure of knowing and understanding were shared as widely as possible will our civilization, will civilized society remain viable.

In the end, it is not an aristocracy of experts, scientific or otherwise, on whom we must depend, but on them AND ourselves.

The personal commitment of a man to his skill, the intellectual commitment and the emotional commitment working together as one, has made for our true progress as a species.

Every man, every civilization, has gone forward because of its engagement with what it has set itself to do.

Knowledge is our destiny.

Knowledge is our salvation.

The ascent of the human mind continues.

Participation in it, to the degree that our personal endowments permit, is self-declared.

Each of us should be warmly welcomes to make the finest contribution our talent and effort can fashion.

Universities have become intellectual museums.

We need to learn together what we need to know.

Academe has assumed a dominant role in our culture and society.

That dominance has blinded us to independent scholarship, to independent thinking.

Have we forgotten the great tradition of all those who achieved intellectual preeminence without benefit of a faculty position?

Academe is not the sole source of significant scholarship.

Fresh thinking, research and experimentation is needed in virtually every field, especially politics.

Above: Columbia University, New York City –

The alma mater (“nourishing mother“), is one of the most enduring symbols of the university.

The phrase was first used to describe the University of Bologna (Italy), founded in 1088.

I lean towards the lessons of history for guidance through the shoals of the present.

Socrates would teach students whatever they wanted to know, for whatever purpose, good or bad.

Socrates insisted that he did NOT have wisdom – that he merely loved it and hence should be called a philosopher, a mere lover of wisdom.

The Socratic amateur is not afraid to be a generalist and tackles the biggest and most complex problems without reducing them to techniques, but instead seeks to share and spread understanding, rather than to control and possess knowledge.

Above: Marble bust of Socrates (470 – 399 BCE), Louvre Museum, Paris, France

This tradition was exemplified by the wandering scholars of the 12th century whose allegiance was to learning, not to any temporal power.

Medieval universities arose out of the struggles of such scholars.

Above: Seal of the University of Bologna

Later, when the universities which they founded had in turn become moribund and institutionalized, once again it was independent scholars – founders of modern science like Galileo and Kepler – who founded learned societies outside of the universities, to explore new ideas and new ways of knowing which universities refuse to entertain.

Above: Galileo Galilei (1564 – 1642)

Above: Johannes Kepler (1571 – 1630)

Independent scholarship, independent thinking always arises as a challenge to the dangerous myth that serious thinking only goes on in established orthodox institutions, that learning is the exclusive possession of the professoriate.

In our own day of excessive bureaucratization, government control and professionalism in learning, the Socratic amateur is an urgently needed voice.

Intellectual commentary on our culture and society should be open and encouraged to the nonacademic thinker.

Matters of such moment, involving our basic values and principles, are too important to be left to the academics.

We need to apply our self-education to the betterment of our society and apply what we have learned to a cause or issue we care deeply about.

And knowing what to care deeply about begins with self-education.

I believe we should learn about politics, for what is truly at stake in politics is nothing less than how we should live, as individuals and as communities.

Our opinions matter, because we have been the capacity for individual thought and reasoning and because we are part of the human whole.

We need to decide for ourselves how we should live, how we should be governed.

Government should exist by the consent of the governed, by the will of the people.

Are we political, economic or religious animals?

Should we live in small city-states, nations or multinational empires?

What values should politics promote and protect?

Should wealth be owned privately or in common?

Our ideas have grown from the dramatic lives and times of those who came before us.

We need to be reminded that politics can be and should be a noble, inspiring and civilizing art.

To understand today’s political world, its strengths and weaknesses, its promise and dangers, we need to understand the foundation of politics and its architects past and present.

It is fashionable today to describe politics as a swamp.

For many it has become nothing more than a vulgar spectacle of deceit, ambition and opportunism.

Trust in our political institutions and leaders has sunk to new lows.

Politicians are held in greater contempt than for generations.

Voter anger and disenchantment are growing at an alarming rate.

Distracted by all the unseemly squabbling of politics, we end up allowing markets and bureaucrats to make decisions for us, leaving citizens resigned and alienated from politics-as-usual.

It is very hard to imagine that ideas, let alone ideals, could play any part in all of this.

Above: Niccolo Machiavelli, The Prince (1550)

But politics has always been a messy business, governed more by expediency and compromise than by lofty ideals and principles, however much lip service is paid to the latter.

It is usually a very rough and nasty game, a Game of Thrones, dominated by conflicting interests, emotions, wealth and power.

Much of the time it is just a low-down dirty business, an evil-smelling bog, as one 19th century British politician (Prime Minister Lord Rosebery) called it.

So shameful is political manoeuvring that it has largely been conducted behind closed doors.

No decent person, it has been said, wants to observe sausages or laws being made.

Above: Archibald Primrose, 5th Earl Rosebery (1847 – 1929)(UK Prime Minister: 1894 – 1895)

This common view of politics is partially true, but it is not the whole truth.

Perhaps more than in any other arena, politics shows humans at their worst and at their best.

We are all too familiar now with the worst, but we need to remind ourselves of the best in an age when it is not often apparent, but when it needs to be, given what is at stake.

Politics is actually a place where ideas and ideals meet concrete reality, where great words and great deeds mix with base motives and low intrigue.

At its best, politics can be “a great and civilizing human activity“, as the political theorist Bernard Crick described it in his defence of the art.

Above: British political theorist Bernard Crick (1929 – 2008)

Politics is the alternative to controlling people by force or fraud alone.

Politics can be and has been used for good and deliberate ends.

History provides abundant examples of this.

Politics is capable of a moral nobility and an intellectual depth foreign to the present age of reality TV and government by Twitter.

Politics is the arena in which the fate of our planet will be decided.

That is why, as citizens, we have a responsibility to engage with politics.

You may not care about politics but politics cares about you.

Above: Logo of US social networking site Twitter

Citizens should be informed, but they also need to be knowledgeable and wise.

Today we are inundated with information.

But knowledge and wisdom remain as scarce as ever.

Thanks to the miracle of digital technology, we are drowning in oceans of data, facts and opinions.

What we need now is not more information but more insight, not more data but more perspective, not more opinions but more wisdom.

Much of what is called information is misinformed.

Most opinions fall short of true knowledge and wisdom.

Even a superficial glance at the state of contemporary politics will dispel any illusion that the explosion of information has led to wiser citizens or politicians or improved the quality of public debate.

If anything, misinformation is winning over knowledge.

The news is incapable of explaining anything.

Its brief reports are like tiny shimmering soap bubbles bursting on the surface of a complex world.

It is all the more absurd then that news corporations pride themselves on accurately reporting the facts.

These facts are usually no more than the consequences and side effects of deeper underlying causes.

Even if you gobble down the latest images and reports from Syria every single day, it will not get you one jot further towards understanding the war.

Above: Flag of Syria

There is actually an inverse relationship:

The more images and frontline dispatches raining down on you, the less you will understand what is going on in the war and why.

News corporations and consumers both fall prey to the same mistake, confusing the presentation of facts with insight into the functional context of the world.

Facts, facts and more facts” is the marginalizing credo of nearly all news corporation.

We ought to try and understand the “generators” underlying these events.

We ought to be investigating the “engine room” behind them.

Sadly, shockingly few journalists are able to explain these causal relationships, because the processes that shape cultural, intellectual, economic, military, political and environmental events are mostly invisible.

They are complex, non-linear and hard for our brains to digest.

This is why news corporations focus on the easy stuff: anecdotes, scandals, celebrity gossip and natural disasters.

They are cheap to produce and easy to digest.

Worse still, the few journalists who do understand the “engine room” and are capable of writing about it are not given the space to do so – let alone time to think.

Why?

Because the bulk of readers would rather consume ten juicy morsels of news than a single thorough article.

Ten lurid little scandals generate more attention – and thus more advertising revenue – than one intelligent article of the same length.

I make my living off the evening news
Just give me something
Something I can use
People love it when you lose
They love dirty laundry

Well, I coulda been an actor
But I wound up here
I just have to look good
I don’t have to be clear
Come and whisper in my ear
Give us dirty laundry

Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down
Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down

Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down
Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em all around

Above: Will Ferrell (Ron Burgundy), Anchorman: The Legend of Ron Burgundy (2004)

We got the bubble headed
Bleached blonde
Comes on at five
She can tell you ’bout the plane crash
With a gleam in her eye
It’s interesting when people die
Give us dirty laundry

Above: Christina Applegate (Veronica Cornerstone), Anchorman 2: The Legend Continues (2013)

Can we film the operation?
Is the head dead yet?
You know the boys in the newsroom
Got a running bet
Get the widow on the set
We need dirty laundry

You don’t really need to find out
What’s going on
You don’t really want to know
Just how far it’s gone
Just leave well enough alone
Eat your dirty laundry

Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down
Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down

Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down
Kick ’em when they’re stiff
Kick ’em all around

Dirty little secrets
Dirty little lies
We got our dirty little fingers
In everybody’s pie
We love to cut you down to size
We love dirty laundry

We can do the Innuendo
We can dance and sing
When it’s said and done
We haven’t told you a thing
We all know that crap is king
Give us dirty laundry

News reports are nothing but dots and nobody has made the effort to connect them and solve the puzzle.

No matter how many news reports you consume, no image will ever emerge.

To see the bigger picture, you need the connecting lines.

You need the context, the mutual dependencies, the feedback, the immediate repercussions – and the consequences of these repercussions.

News is the opposite of understanding the world.

News suggests there are only events – events without context.

Yet the opposite is true.

Nearly everything that happens in the world is complex.

Implying these events are singular phenomena is a lie – a lie promulgated by news producers because it tickles our palates.

This is a disaster.

Consuming the news to “understand the world” is worse than not consuming any news at all.

Thomas Jefferson realized this as early as 1807:

The man who never looks into a newspaper is better informed than he who reads them.

Above: Thomas Jefferson (1743 – 1826) (US President: 1801 – 1809)

Facts get in the way of thought.

Your brain can drown in facts.

If you consume the news, you will be under the illusion that you understand the world.

This illusion can lead to overconfidence.

To choose wisdom, we should choose “a limited number of master thinkers and digest their works“, suggested the philosopher Seneca almost 2,000 years ago.

Above: Bust of Seneca the Younger (4 BCE – 65 CE), Antikensammlung, Berlin, Germany

We need to move beyond information to acquire knowledge and, from there, wisdom.

Information is about facts and is more specific.

Knowledge is more general and implies understanding and analysis.

Wisdom is the highest and deepest form of insight into the reality of something.

Perhaps the most nostalgic place to start is the library.

Knowledge is power.

Knowledge is our salvation.

Above: State and University Library, Aarhus, Denmark

At first glance it may be asked:

Why is the opinion of a Canadian upon US politics worthy of any regard?

America, for better or worse, is, at this time in history, the mightiest power on the planet.

What American political, military, economic, cultural and scientific institutions do has a decisive influence, for better or worse, on the lives of everyone everywhere on Earth.

With great power comes great responsibility.

It is the duty of everyone to hold America responsible for how it wields its power.

It is the duty of everyone to remind Americans that what they do affects the rest of the world.

In Europe in the weeks following 9/11, in the leading newspapers in Britain, Germany, France, Italy and Spain there was plenty of news coverage that both sympathized with the horror inflicted upon the United States and endorsed the right of the US to retaliate militarily.

Above: 9/11 Memorial South Pool, New York City

But there was also lots of coverage that cautioned against a military response, connected the attacks with America’s foreign policy and urged attention to the root causes of terrorism, not just to sensational symbols like Osama bin Laden.

Above: Osama bin Laden (1957 – 2011)

Bring the murderers to justice, but tackle the causes of these outrages“, the 14 September London Independent opined.

In Germany, the conservative tabloid Bild gave space to pacific as well as belligerent viewpoints.

One article quoted a German businessman’s letter to President Bush urging him to “punish the guilty, not the innocent women and children of Afghanistan“.

In the US, by contrast, the news media’s pronouncements were indistinguishable from the government’s.

Neither showed tolerance for anything less than full-throated outrage.

Correspondents wore American flag pins and civilian deaths in Afghanistan were dismissed as unworthy of news coverage.

Above: Flag of Afghanistan

When the American media finally examined the question of how the US appeared to the rest of the world, that richly complex subject was reduced to simplistic melodrama.

Above: Raising the flag at Ground Zero, 11 September 2001

Anyone voicing the opinions expressed by the Independent or Bild was accused of treasonous nonsense, as writer Susan Sontag discovered when she published an article in the New Yorker pointing out that American foreign policy had wreaked terrible damage on other countries in the past, so why all the surprise at being targeted now?

Above: Susan Sontag (1933 – 2004)

We need at all costs to understand.

We need to consider even explanations that may not flatter us.

We need to recognize that there is a crucial difference between explaining a given action and excusing that action.

The US in no way deserved 9/11.

There is never any excuse for terrorism.

That being said, the attacks will never be understood outside the context of American foreign policy and the resentment it engenders.

There are numerous global hot spots where US policies, rightly or wrongly, are controversial enough to feed rage.

Americans need reminding that they need to have an honest discussion about their conduct overseas.

Where is it wise?

Where is it unwise?

How often does it correspond to the values of democracy and freedom that they regularly invoke?

How important is it whether Americans practice what they preach?

If Americans want a healthy relationship with the six billion people they share the planet with, we all need to understand how we all are, how we all live, how we all think, and why.

45% of humanity lives on less than $2.00 a day.

Peace and prosperity are unlikely under such conditions.

The CIA itself has warned:

Groups feeling left behind by widening inequality will foster political, ethnic, ideological and religious extremism, along with the violence that accompanies it.

Foreigners have no less a stake in better understanding the United States.

At a time when the US and the rest of the world are increasingly intertwined through economics and technology, we still gaze at each other in mutual incomprehension.

How, foreigners ask, can America be so powerful yet so naive?

So ignorant of foreign nations, peoples and languages, and yet so certain that it knows what is best for everyone?

How can its citizens be so open and generous but its foreign policy so domineering?

Why is it shocked when the objects of its policies grumble or even strike back?

Americans should remain awed and fight to protect its founding ideals, but politically they live in a democracy that barely deserves the name.

The government lectures others on how to run elections, yet many Americans don’t vote.

The American economy is undemocratic, for many Americans feel alienated from a political system they correctly perceive as captive to the rich and powerful.

America is more and more divided between an elite that lives in cloistered luxury and a poor and middle class doomed to work hard but never get ahead.

American governments say they stand for freedom and sometimes they do.

But often they can be shamelessly hypocritical, siding with treacherous dictatorships that serve their perceived interests and overthrowing democracies that do not.

The United States has much to be proud of – and much to be ashamed of.

Just as any other nation, including my own.

If we face up to this unsurprising but powerful truth then we will begin to understand.

If we insist that we ignore our faults – and label anyone who refuses to be silent, a traitor – then we will never learn from our mistakes.

Uncomfortable truths do not go away just because powerful voices want them shouted down.

Inconvenient truths do not disappear just because we choose to ignore them.

I don’t pretend to understand America and I believe many Americans themselves don’t understand America.

As American writer John Steinbeck wrote:

The United States is complicated, paradoxical, bullheaded, shy, cruel, boisterous, unspeakably dear and very beautiful.

Above: John Steinbeck (1902 – 1968)

As the global outpouring of sympathy following 9/11 illustrated, the rest of the world harbours great affection for Americans along with other, less enthusiastic feelings.

The vast majority of foreigners differentiate between Americans as people – whom they generally like – and American power and foreign policy, which are far less admired.

Most foreigners recognize plainly enough that it is in their own interest to understand America as clearly as possible, because what the American government decides about economic policy, military action and cultural mores affect everyone everywhere.

Americans need to educate themselves about the values they claim to espouse and hold those values dear.

Americans need to educate themselves about the world as it is rather than what they think it should be.

The world is watching.

I think we need to relish nostalgia – the nostalgia of the library, the nostalgia of the walk.

Learn from history.

Knowledge is our salvation.

Our voices united is an expression of that knowledge.

Nostalgia might be our salvation.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Rolf Dobelli, Stop Reading the News / Graeme Garrard and James Bernard Murphy, How to Think Politically / Ronald Gross, The Independent Scholar’s Handbook / Don Henley, Dirty Laundry (song) / Mark Hertsgaard, The Eagle’s Shadow / Bill Mayer, “Democracy’s Deathbed“, Real Time, 5 November 2022 / Hilary Reid, “Too much screen time? Landline phones offer a lifeline“, New York Times, 22 March 2022 / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust

 

The way of the bull

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Monday 20 June 2022

It is a long weekly journey for a tall man.

Above: Eskişehir Otobüs Terminali (bus station)

Six hours on a cramped bus each way between Eskişehir (where I live) and Denizli (where I teach every Friday) and, for the most part, it feels like an endurance test that must be tolerated.

Above: Bridge over Porsuk River in Eskişehir, Turkey

Above: Denizli – The rooster is the symbol of the city

Nonetheless, the journey does have one compensation:

Scenery.

My spirit longs to drag my body off the bus and compel it to hike the hills and climb the crests of surrounding mountains that encircle the highways.

The journey to Denizli usually finds me distracting myself with books as the trip is made in the morning and early afternoon with daylight my constant travel companion.

The journey from Denizli, made between 6 pm and midnight, is spent with eyes cast outside the windows as sunset paints a magical silhouette that mere photographs cannot sufficiently capture.

I am reminded of the lower Laurentians where I was raised in Canada.

I am reminded of Switzerland where I resided in the decade before I moved to Türkiye for work.

My eyes seek in the Turkish silhouette the one commonality that the Laurentians and the Alps share.

In the distance I see what I had sought.

Cows.

My spirit is at peace.

A smile returns to my face.

How easy it is to forget that cows are animals…..

To Reinhard Pfurtscheller, the land he farmed high in the Alps was always a slice of Paradise.

He would wake up in a cabin more than 300 years old, cows already wandering the flower-speckled meadows, snow-capped peaks all around.

There is nothing more beautiful.“, Pfurtscheller says.

Above: Reinhard Pfurtscheller

Until that warm July afternoon when he watched medics on his pasture zipping shut a body bag.

As the helicopter took off with the victim, Pfurtschneller learned that a 45-year-old hiker from Germany had been brutally assaulted, sustaining grevious injuries to her chest and heart.

The farmer was well acquainted with her killers:

Bea, Flower, Raven, and his other cows.

Across the Alps, such attacks once were a shocking rarity.

No longer.

Amid the sweeping economic changes jeopardizing farmers’ future, the creatures that for decades have defined the region’s landscape and culture – bovine stars of tourism campaigns – have become liabilities.

Another hiker was killed a year after the German woman died in 2014 and another in 2017.

Statistics are not kept by Austrian, Swiss, Italian or French authorities, but media reports of incidents have become increasingly common.

Nowadays, signs warning tourists in English, French, German and Italian are ubiquitous:

Cross pastures at your own risk.

Hotels display brochures on how to stay safe.

Olympic skiers and famous actors help to raise awareness in TV spots and online videos, often stressing:

The mountain pasture is no petting zoo.

Yet this summer, with many Europeans yearning for the outdoors after two years of living with coronavirus restrictions, there are worries that the hiking season will result in even more attacks.

Since June 2020, at least nine attacks have been reported.

Some might think this isn’t serious, but do you know how terrifying a herd of cows charging at you is, how fast and agile they are?“, said Andreas Freisinger, an optician living near Wien (Vienna).

It is a rheotrical question.

Freisinger (50) indeed knows.

An agitated herd came at him and his family while they were day-tripping on one of the highest mountains in the eastern Alps.

They escaped only because they let their dog off the leash and the cows pursued Junior as he fled into the forest.

When Freisinger went looking for the St. Bernard mix, he heard a rapid scuffing just before a lone cow knocked him to the ground.

I was fighting for my life.“, he recounted, describing how he aimed his kicks for the cow’s udders.

Even so, the animal cracked one of his shoulder blades, an orbital cavity, and several vertebrae and ribs, plus flattened his lungs and diaphragm with the weight of a grand piano.

Above: Andreas Freisinger

The scenery that annually draws 120 million tourists would not exist if not for cows grazing.

It has been cultivated over seven centuries of farmers driving their herds to mountainside meadows in the summer.

The animals’ hoofs firm the soil, their tongues gently groom the grasses and wildflowers.

In the process, they continuously sculpt verdant pastures.

All that seemed at stake when a court in the western state of Tyrol found Pfurtscheller solely responsible for the German woman’s death and ordered him to pay more than $210,000 in damages to her widower and son plus monthly restitution totalling $1,850.

Above: Flag of the Austrian state of Tyrol

The 2019 decision shocked farmers and not just in Neustift im Stubaital, a village of fewer than 5,000 inhabitants.

Above: Neustift im Stubaital, Tyrol, Österreich (Austria)

As foreclosure on Pfurtscheller’s home and farm loomed, some farmers contemplated banning hikers from their land, a move that would cut off access to the Alps.

Others threatened to stop taking their cows into the Alps altogether, a move that would allow nature to cut back in.

Forests would soon begin to take over.

This isn’t just about the farmers.

It is the wish of all Europeans to have the mountains open for hiking.”, warned Josef Lanzinger, head of the Alpine farming association in Tyrol.

This would mean the end of Alpine pastures.“, said Georg Strasser, president of Bauernbund, the national farmers association that is one of Austria’s most powerful lobbies.

Failing dairy and meat prices had already tightened the screws on farmers, Strasser told reporters after the Pfurtscheller ruling, and the spectre of lawsuits would prove too much to bear.

Governments quickly acted to keep cows on the pastures.

State governors, federal ministers, even the then-Austrian Chancellor Sebastian Kurz spoke out in support of Pfurtscheller, a man of 62 who has been farming since he was ten.

Last year, federal law was changed to block similar litigation.

New insurance policies now cover every farmer whose animals go wild.

Above: Sebastian Kurz (Chancellor: 2017 – 2019 / 2020 – 2021)

In May 2020, the Austrian Supreme Court of Justice upheld a revised lower court verdict that held the hiker equally culpable for the tragedy, cut her survivors’ compensation to $92,400 and halved their monthly restitution payments.

The verdict was a real blow, said Markus Hirn, the lawyer for her family.

But given how much political support the farmer had, it still feels like a win.

Above: Palace of Justice, Wien (Vienna), Österreich (Austria)

Farmers feel otherwise because of the pressures they are facing.

The steep Alpine terrain limits the amount of feed that can be grown and the number of cows that can be held.

On average, a farmer in Tyrol owns 12 cows, but the more dramatic the landscape gets, the lower that figure goes.

Hikers with dogs, as well as bike riders, add to cows’ stress.

(The casualty on Pfurtscheller’s farm was accompanied by a terrier.)

To the cows, dogs are direct descendants of wolves.”, Pfurtscheller said.

If you thought your child is in danger, wouldn’t you defend it?

Pfurtscheller has posted new signs on his land warning hikers to keep dogs away from mother cows at all times.

He fences his pastures.

People want the pastures, they want cows, and farmers in Lederhosen.“, Pfurtscheller said.

But nobody sees how much effort it is.

Nature teaches beasts to know their friends.

William Shakespeare, Coriolanus, Act 2, Scene 1

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

People watch with amazement a TV programme on the social lives of elephants – their family groupings, affections and mutual help, their sense of fun – without realizing that our own domestic cattle develop very similar lifestyles if given the opportunity.

Joanne Bower, The Farm and Food Society

Cows have far more awareness and know-how than they have ever been given credit for.

Watching cows and calves playing, grooming one another or being assertive, takes on a whole new dimension if you know that those taking part are siblings, cousins, friends or sworn enemies.

If you know animals as individuals you notice how often older brothers are kind to younger brothers, how sisters seek or avoid each other’s company, and which families always get together at night to sleep and which never do so.

Cows are as varied as people.

They can be highly intelligent or slow to understand.

Friendly, considerable, aggressive, docile, inventive, dull, proud or shy.

All these characteristics are present in a herd.

Cattle (Bos taurus) are large domesticated bovines.

They are most widespread species of the genus Bos.

Adult females are referred to as cows and adult males are referred to as bulls.

Cattle are commonly raised as livestock for meat (beef or veal), for milk, and for hides, which are used to make leather.

They are used as riding animals and draft animals (oxen or bullocks, which pull carts, plows and other implements).

Another product of cattle is their dung, which can be used to create manure or fuel.

Above: Cow dung – looks and smells: not pretty, but pretty useful

In some regions, such as parts of India, cattle have significant religious significance.

Cattle, mostly small breeds such as the Miniature Zebu, are also kept as pets.

Above: A Miniature Zebu cow

Different types of cattle are common to different geographic areas.

Taurine cattle are found primarily in Europe and temperate areas of Asia, the Americas and Australia. 

Zebus (also called indicine cattle) are found primarily in India and tropical areas of Asia, America, and Australia. 

Sanga cattle are found primarily in sub-Saharan Africa.

These types (which are sometimes classified as separate species or subspecies) are further divided into over 1,000 recognized breeds.

Around 10,500 years ago, taurine cattle were domesticated from as few as 80 wild aurochs progenitors in central Anatolia, the Levant and Western Iran.

A separate domestication event occurred in the Indian subcontinent, which gave rise to zebu.

According to the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), there are approximately 1.5 billion cattle in the world as of 2018.

Cattle are the main source of greenhouse gas emissions from livestock, and are responsible for around 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions.

In 2009, cattle became one of the first livestock animals to have a fully mapped genome.

Above: Global bovine distribution

I am Cow, hear me moo
I weigh twice as much as you
And I look good on the barbecue
Yogurt, curd, cream cheese and butter’s
Made from liquid from my udders
I am Cow, I am Cow, Hear me moo (moo)

I am Cow, eating grass
Methane gas comes out my ass
And out my muzzle when I belch
Oh, the ozone layer is thinner
From the outcome of my dinner
I am Cow, I am Cow, I’ve got gas

I am Cow, here I stand
Far and wide upon this land
And I am living everywhere
From BC to Newfoundland
You can squeeze my teats by hand
I am Cow, I am Cow, I am Cow
I am Cow, I am Cow, I am Cow!

Aggression in cattle is usually a result of fear, learning and hormonal state, however, many other factors can contribute to aggressive behaviors in cattle.

Temperament traits are known to be traits in which explain the behaviour and actions of an animal and can be described in the traits responsible for how easily an animal can be approached, handled, milked or trained.

Temperament can also be defined as how an animal carries out maternal or other behaviours while subjected to routine management.

These traits have the ability to change as the animal ages or as the environment in which the animal lives changes over time, however, it is proven that regardless of age and environmental conditions, some individuals remain more aggressive than others. 

Aggression in cattle can arise from both genetic and environmental factors.

Aggression between cows is worse than that between bulls.

Bulls with horns will bunt (push or strike with the horns) in which can cause more damage overall.

Most aggressive behaviours of cows include kicking, crushing and/or blunting.

There are many types of aggression that are seen in animals, particularly cattle, including maternal, feed, comfort influencing, pain induced, and stress induced aggressiveness.

There are many components to maternal behavior that are seen in cattle, including behavior that allows proper bonding between mother and baby, nursing behavior, attentiveness and how mother responds to offspring.

This maternal behavior is often seen in cattle during lactation as a prey species, this triggers the maternal instinct to protect their young from any threat and may use violent aggressive behaviors as a defense mechanism.

During lactation in prey species, including cattle, a reduction in fear responsiveness to novel and potentially dangerous situations facilitates the expression of defensive aggression in protection of the young.

It has also been proven however that aggression is not only performed in the protection of the offspring, but it can be directed to the offspring, in which could be directly related to fear.

This is commonly seen in cattle due to high stocking densities which could potentially decrease the amount of space each cow has, as well as limit their ability to have access to feed, even impacting the ruminal environment. 

It has been proven that supplying feed and water to cattle that are housed together may be heavily associated with feed aggression and aggressive actions towards others cows and within loose-housed cattle, feeding places are noted to have the highest amount of aggressive behaviours.

These are aggressive behaviors associated with lack of comfort, inadequate lying space or time in which the physical environment fails to provide the animal.

Cow comfort plays an important role in the well being as well as maximizing production as an industry.

Within many intensive production systems, it is very common to see limited space for resting, which can be associated with negative behaviors as not providing the appropriate space for the animal reduces resting and lying behavior, increasing irritability and the potential to act in aggressive behaviours.

Although not all production systems provide limited space and time for lying, uncomfortable stalls are also known to be a major problem when it comes to lying behaviour in cattle.

Decreasing the quality of resting area for cows will decrease resting time, and increase the likelihood of stress, abnormal and aggressive behaviours as the deprivation of lying/resting behaviors is proven to affect responses within the hypothalamic pituitary adrenal axis which is associated with chronic stress in the animal.

Not only lying time and space act as important regulators of comfort induced aggression, but other environmental factors may play a role in the comfort of an animal. 

Temperature has been shown to be a factor that influences the behavioral interactions between cattle.

It has been found that, by providing cows with the proper cooling environment or as heat decreases aggressive interactions in cattle will also decrease.

Cattle with access to more shade are known to show reduced physiological and behavioural responses to heat.

There are behaviours caused by some sort of stressor that can lead to aggressive advances towards themselves or other individuals.

A stressor is an object or event that can cause a real or perceived threat internally or externally to an animal. 

Stressors are common in farm animals such as dairy cows as they live in a complex environment where there are many stressors including:

  • novel objects (new objects such as handlers, food, or group mates)
  • social stimuli (different environments, new individuals)
  • restraint (physical restraint, moved to cubicles, transported).

Dairy cows specifically have been known to be very sensitive to new, unfamiliar events or objects such as being around an unfamiliar person, or presented with a novel food item.

Stress has extreme negative impacts on growth and reproduction in cattle, as the pituitary-adrenal system is very sensitive to different environmental stressors such as:

  • inadequate space
  • feed
  • poor quality housing
  • new objects or individuals
  • new living/housing system.

Pain is defined as an effective state and can only be truly measured indirectly in both humans and animals, that may present some challenges in decision making regarding pain management.

Many things can result in pain including: 

  • dehorning

  • tail docking

  • handling

  • castrating

  • mastitis

Above: A cow suffering mastitis

  • lameness

  • confinement

  • transportation

Lameness is a common issue seen in cattle, and may occur in facilities with poor management and housing systems, and inadequate handling skills.

It is because of this issue that many cows find themselves spending a lot of time lying down, instead of engaging in both aggressive (head butting, vocalizing, pushing) and non aggressive behaviors (licking, walking) due to the pain.

Techniques such as low stress handling (LSH) can be used as it provides silence, adequate restraint methods can help minimize stress levels in the animals.

Flight zones should be considered when handling or moving cattle, as they have a blind spot and may get spooked easily if unaware if there is an individual around.

Providing environments for cows in which minimize any environmental stressor can not only improve the wellbeing and welfare of the animal, but can also reduce aggressive behaviours.

Regular examinations (physical and physiological) should be done to determine the condition of the cow, which could show signs of cuts, or lesions, as well as the secretion or hormones inside the body such as cortisol.

Cortisol can be measured through blood sampling, urine, saliva or heart rate to indicate stress level of animal.

Assessing for lameness, as well as giving proper treatment depending on severity / location can include antibiotics.

Using proper treatment / prevention for pain when lameness is examined, as well as procedures such as tail docking, dehorning, castrating, mastitis lameness, etc.

The primary treatment in lame cows is corrective hoof pairing, which provides draining of abscesses, fixing any structural issue with the hoof, and reducing weight baring problems, however if lesions are seen in cattle, antibiotics or other measures may have to be taken to reduce further infection/irritation.

Setting breeding goals can be a potential way to select for desired temperamental traits, further decreasing the risk of raising aggressive cattle.

Before this method of selection can be entirely accurate and safe, however, some tests should be done, such as behaviour and temperament tests.

It is perhaps easier to assume that animals have no feelings.

They can then be used as generators of profit without any regard being given to their actual needs, as satisfying those needs is allegedly not worth the cost.

Happy animals grow faster, stay healthier, cause fewer problems and provide more profit in the long run, when all factors, such as the effects on human health and the environment are taken into account.

W.H. Hudson said:

Bear in mind that animals are only unhappy when made so by man.

Above: William Henry Hudson (1841 – 1922)

Bovine needs are in many respects the same as human ones:

  • freedom from stress
  • adequate shelter
  • pure food and water
  • liberty to exercise, to wander about, to go for a walk, or just to stand and stare.

Every animal needs congenial company of its own species.

A cow needs to be allowed to enjoy its rights in its own way, in its own time, and not according to a human timetable.

The number of different ways a calf may be treated is no fewer than the number of ways a child may be treated.

Most people believe that children need a stable environment with warmth and comfort, good clothes and shoes, food and drink, interesting diversions, friends of their own age and adults to guide and, above all, to love them.

We do not expect a well-balanced adult to emerge from a neglected, ill-nourished, lonely, frightened child.

The same logic should apply to farm animals.

The quality of the food and the overall environment of any living creature will determine its potential in later life.

The behaviour and health of all animals is affected by the quality of food they receive and the stress to which they are subjected.

If animals feel totally relaxed and safe and know themselves to be in a familiar environment, surroundings by family and friends, they will often sleep lying flat out.

They flop in a variety of often amusing positions and look anything from idyllically comfortable to dead.

Sleep may sometimes last only a very short time, but it is important and that they should not be disturbed.

It might sound eccentric to suggest that the reason an animal is bad-tempered is because it is short of sleep, but as sleeping is vital, deprivation will obviously do harm.

Animals can make up for deficiencies in their diet by foraging and finding what they need.

It is up to us to provide conditions in which they can be comfortable and happy enough to sleep well.

Twenty things you ought to know about cows:

  1. Cows love each other…..at least some do.
  2. Cows babysit for each other.
  3. Cows nurse grudges.
  4. Cows invent games.
  5. Cows take umbrage.
  6. Cows can communicate with people.
  7. Cows can solve problems.
  8. Cows make friends for life.
  9. Cows have food preferences.
  10. Cows can be unpredictable.
  11. Cows can be good company.
  12. Cows can be boring.
  13. Cows can be intelligent.
  14. Cows love music.
  15. Cows can be gentle.
  16. Cows can be aggressive.
  17. Cows can be dependable.
  18. Cows can be forgiving.
  19. Cows can be obstinate.
  20. Cows can be wise.

Cows are individuals and possess feelings, just like humans.

Thus, they can be as unpredictable as humans.

Let us consider Switzerland.

More than anything, it is the magnificent ranges enclosing the country to the south that define it.

The main draw for visitors, they have also played a profound role in forming Switzerland’s national identity.

They are the favourite recreation grounds for summer hiking and winter skiing.

Within this rugged environment, community spirit is perhaps stronger than anywhere else in Europe.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Switzerland is heaven for outdoor activities of all kinds.

You don’t have to be a mountaineer to enjoy an active holiday in the Alps.

Switzerland has some of Europe’s finest walking terrain with enough variety to suit every taste.

In the northwest the wooded Jura hills provide long views across the lowlands to Alpine giants.

Above: Jura Mountains

The Bernese Alps harbour a glacial heartland but also feature gentle valleys, pastoral ridges and charming hamlets with well-marked trails weaving through.

Above: Bernese Alps

On the south side of the Rhône Valley, the Pennine Alps are burdened with snow and glaciers, yet walkers’ paths lead along their moraines.

Above: Pennine Alps

In the mountains of Ticino, which are almost completely ice-free in summer, you will find trails galore linking modest, lake-jewelled peaks.

Above: Ticino mountains

In tourist areas walkers can use chairlifts, gondolas and cable cars in summer and autumn to reach high trails.

Paths are well-maintained and clearly marked with regular yellow signposts displaying the names of major landmark destinations, often with an estimate of the time it takes to walk to them. Most signposts also have a white plate giving the name and altitude of the spot you are standing on.

A Wanderweg / Chemin de randonnée pédestre / Sentiero escursionistico remains either in the valley or travels the hillsides at a modest attitude, is sometimes surfaced and will be graded at a relatively gentle angle.

Yellow diamonds or pointers show the continuation of the route.

No one should venture into the outdoors without consulting a good map.

In Switzerland, local shops and tourist offices usually stock a selection, including walkers’ maps with routes and times.

Always check the weather forecast before setting out.

Do not venture to high altitudes if bad weather is expected.

It is sensible to take a fleece and waterproof wherever you go.

On more ambitious outings it is essential with wind- and waterproof clothing and good footwear.

Frequent official avalanche bulletins are published online and publicized widely in mountain areas.

I have been caught outdoors overnight in the mountains.

Above: Logo of Swiss Air Rescue – (German: Schweizerische Rettungsflugwacht, French: Garde aérienne suisse de sauvetageRega)

It seems to me that I have heard of at least one major avalanche in the Alps for each year I lived in Switzerland.

I had heard of at least one fatality on the trails of Switzerland every year.

As a whole, Switzerland has 1.59 million cows, or one for every five people.

So there are victims of cattle aggression in Switzerland.

Two young hikers were airlifted to hospital with moderate injuries after being knocked to the ground by a cow in the canton of Nidwalden on Saturday, 24 August 2019 – the second such incident in the area in a month.

Above: Flag of Canton Nidwalden

The hikers suffered bruises and shock in the incident involving a herd of cattle and their calves on the Bannalp in the commune of Wolfenschiessen said in a statement.

Above: Wolfenschiessen, Nidenwalden, Switzerland

The walking track that the hikers was temporarily closed.

In addition, the herd of cows involved in the attack has been moved away from its high summer pasture and back down to the valley – a month earlier than planned.

The incident was the second attack by cows on the Bannalp track in two months.

In July 2019, a dog was trampled to death and the animal’s owner was injured.

Dogs were subsequently banned on the walking track for the duration of the summer.

Above: Bannalp

One local farmer told regional daily Luzerner Zeitung that the cause of the attacks lies in the difference between cattle and dairy cows.

Cattle behave differently to milk cows.

They are quicker to feel themselves under attack and to want to protect their calves, while they are also less used to humans because they are not milked.”, explained Wendel Odermatt.

He said it often only required an aggressive animal to incite an attack.

Herd instinct and the instinct to play also played a role, he added.

In the past, there had been less awareness of this problem because dairy cows dominated in pastures, he said.

Hikers are advised to take care with such herds.

Above: Wendel Odermatt

In the summer months hikers strolling through meadows in Switzerland often underestimate the danger posed by cows.

Far from being docile creatures, cows can be aggressive, especially if they are protecting their calves.

Fatal attacks are, thankfully, rare.

In 2015, a German tourist was killed by cattle when out walking in the Laax area of Graubünden, prompting the authorities to put up warning signs.

Above: Laax, Graubünden, Switzerland

To help avoid further injury, Blick newspaper compiled a list of helpful tips on crossing meadows safely.

The Swiss advisory service for agricultural accident prevention BUL recommends walkers avoid:

–       wearing very bright or garishly coloured clothing

–       making loud noises or high-pitched sounds

–       taking a dog with you, as dogs are seen as a threat

–       looking the cow in the eye and sustained eye contact.

The BUL also offers advice to hikers who find themselves at risk of attack:

–       Back away slowly but do not avert your gaze.

–       Use a walking stick (Alpenstock) to defend yourself if attacked.

–       If you have a dog, let it off the lead, so the cow will concentrate on the dog instead of you.

Above: Jacques Balmat (1762 – 1834) carrying an axe and an alpenstock

The advisory service says the main piece of advice is to always keep quiet when crossing meadows and to observe the behaviour of the herd.

You should also keep as far away from the animals as possible.

Consider Türkiye.

Above: Flag of Turkey

Trails in Türkiye beckon.

Head for the hills on a wonderful waymarked hiking trail, like the Lycian Way or St. Paul Trail.

The exhilarating Lycian Way long-distance trail weaves its way through the westernmost reaches of the Toros.

Inaugurated in 2000, the Lycian Way runs parallel to much of the Turquoise Coast,

In theory, it takes five weeks to complete the entire trail, but most walkers sample it in stages rather than tackling it all in one go.

Starting above Ölüdeniz and ending just shy of Antalya, the trail takes in choice mountain landscapes and seascapes en route, with many optional detours to Roman or Byzantine ruins not found in conventional guidebooks.

Some of the wildest sections lie between Kabak and Gavuragli, above the Yediburun coast, and between Kas and Üçagiz.

Elevation en route varies from sea level to 1,800 metres on the saddle of Tahtali Dağ.

The best walking seasons along most of the way are October (pleasantly warm) or April / May (when water is plentiful and the days long), except in the highest mountain stages.

Summer is out of the question.

Above: The Lycian Way

The route itself ranges from rough boulder-strewn trails to brief stretches of asphalt, by way of forested paths, cobbled or revetted Byzantine/Ottoman roads and tractor tracks.

While the entire distance is marked with the conventional red-and-white blazes used in Europe, plus occasional metal signs giving distances to the next key destination, waymarks can be absent when you need them most.

Continual bulldozing of existing footpath stretches into jeep tracks is such a major problem that the notional initial section between Hisarönü and Kirme has now ceased to exist, with most hikers starting at Faralya, while periodic maintenance (and where necessary rerouting) barely keeps pace with fast-growing scrub and rockfalls.

Above: Map of the Lycian Way

The more challenging St. Paul Trail crosses the range from south to north.

Opened in 2004, the rugged St. Paul Trail offers over 500 km of trekking in the spectacularly beautiful Toros Mountains.

Waymarked to international standards, with red and white flashes on rocks and trees, it allows relatively easy explorations of a remote, unspoiled area of Turkey.

Above: Saint Paul Trail

The twin starting points of the route are the ancient cities of Perge and Aspendos on the Mediterranean coastal plain.

It was from Perge that St. Paul set out in 46 CE, on his first proselytizing journey.

Above: Perge

His destination was the Roman colonial town of Antioch ad Pisidiam, where he first preached Christ’s message to non-Jews.

Above: Antiocheia in Psidia

En route from the Mediterranean to the Anatolian plateau, the Trail crosses tumbling mountain rivers, climbs passes between limestone peaks that soar to almost 3,000 metres, dips into deeply scored canyons.

It weaves beneath shady pine and cedar forest.

It even includes a boat ride across the glimmering expanse of Lake Egirdir.

Hikers interested in archaeology can discover remote, little-known Roman sites and walk along original sections of Roman road.

The irrevocably active can raft the Köprülü River, scale 2,635-metre Mount Davraz and 2799-metre Mount Barla.

Both trails are marked with red-and-white paint flashes and take in some stunning mountain and gorge scenery, remote ancient sites and timeless villages.

Other trails have also sprung up.

These include:

  • the Evliya Çelebi Way in northwest Turkey, a trail suitable for horse riders and walkers

Above: Map of the Evliya Çelebi Way

The Evliya Çelebi Way is a cultural trekking route celebrating the early stages of the journey made in 1671 to Mecca by the eponymous Ottoman Turkish gentleman-adventurer, Evliya Çelebi.

Evliya travelled the Ottoman Empire and beyond for some 40 years, leaving a ten-volume account of his journeys.

Above: Statue of Evliya Çelebi, Eger Castle, Hungary

The Evliya Çelebi Way is a 600+ km-long trail for horse riders, hikers and bikers.

It begins at Hersek (a village in Altinova district), on the south coast of the Izmit Gulf, and traces Evliya’s pilgrimage journey via Iznik, Yenisehir, Inegöl, Kütahya (his ancestral home), Afyonkarahisar, Usak, Eski Gediz and Simav.

(Heavy urbanisation prevents the Way entering either Istanbul, from where he set out in 1671, or Bursa.)

The Evliya Çelebi Way was inaugurated in autumn 2009 by a group of Turkish and British riders and academics.

A guidebook to the route, both English and Turkish, includes practical information for the modern traveller, day-by-day route descriptions, maps, photos, historical and architectural background, notes on the environment, and summaries of Evliya’s description of places he saw when he travelled in the region, paired with what the visitor may see today.

  • Abraham’s Path, linking Yuvacali village with Harran and the Syrian border

Above: Map of the Abraham Path

The small village of Yuvacali, set amid bleached fields of wheat, lentils and chickpeas, huddles at the foot of a prominent settlement mound as ancient as nearby Göbekli Tepe, not far from the market town of Hilvan.

Here you can stay in a Kurdish village home and try your hand at milking sheep and baking unleavened village bread.

You will also be introduced to Kurdish history and culture, taken on a one-hour 30-minute walk around the village and its ruins.

Perhaps walk a part of the waymarked Abraham Path, which starts here.

Above: Yuvacali

The Abraham Path is a cultural route believed to have been the path of the patriarch Abraham’s ancient journey across the Ancient Near East.

The path was established in 2007 as a pilgrims’ way to mimic the historical believed route of Abraham, between his birthplace of Ur of the Chaldees, believed by some to have been Urfa, Turkey, and his final destination of the desert of Negev.

Above: Sanliurfa, Turkey

Above: Ein Avdat, Negev Desert, Israel

Abraham/Ibrahim is believed to have lived in the Bronze Age.

He travelled with family and flocks throughout the Fertile Crescent, the Arabian peninsula, and the Nile Valley.

His story has inspired myriad communities, including Kurds, Muslims, Jews, Christians, Alevi, Bedouin, Fellahin, Samaritans, and countless across the world.

The Abraham Path Initiative aims to build on this narrative of shared connection with its rich tradition of walking and hospitality to strangers.

The main historical Abrahamic sites on the current path are: 

  • Urfa, the birthplace of Abraham according to some Muslim traditions 
  • Harran, according to the Hebrew Bible, a town Abraham lived in, and from which he received the call to start the main part of his journey 

Above: Harran, Türkiye

  • Jerusalem, the scene for the binding of Isaac upon the Foundation Stone, according to the Hebrew Bible

Above: Jerusalem, Israel

  • Hebron, the location of the tomb of Abraham and his wife Sarah, according to Jewish, Christian and Muslim traditions.

Above: Hebron, Israel

  • the Carian Way on the southwest Aegean coast

Above: Map of the Carian Trail

The Carian Trail (Karia Yolu) is an 820 km long-distance footpath exploring the southwestern corner of Turkey through the modern provinces of Mugla and Aydin.

The trail is officially opened in 2013 and winds through some of the lesser known regions of Turkey.

The trail is named after the Carian civilization, indigenous people of Asia Minor.

Above: Inscription in Carian script

It passes through an area with many ancient ruins.

Stone paved caravan roads and mule paths connect villages from the coast to a mountainous hinterland.

There are pine forest covered mountain slopes, olive terraces and almond groves which are an important part of the region’s economy.

The trail is signed and waymarked with red and white stripes (Grande Randonée convention) allowing both independent and group travellers from inside and outside of Turkey to hike and enjoy the scenic beauty and cultural treasures of Caria.

Above: Carian Trail, Muğla

The 820 km long trail has four main sections: 

  • Bozburun
  • Datça Peninsula
  • Gulf of Gökova
  • Carian Hinterland
  • with an additional section that encompass Mugla and surrounding regions. 

All of the trail has been divided into 46 stages.

It also includes a smaller 11 km long section called Dalyan, which is isolated from other sections. Some sections and stages can be cycled.

Above: Carian Trail signage

Bozburun Peninsula section is 141.2 km long and is the official starting point of the Trail. 

It starts from Içmeler and follows Turunç, Kumlubük, Bayır, Taşlıca, Söğüt, Bozburun, Selimiye, Orhaniye, and ends in Hisarönü.

Above: Bozburun

Datça Peninsula is 240.7 km of length.

The section starts from the old town of Datça, and follows Hızırşah, Domuzçukuru, Mesudiye, Palamutbükü, Knidos, Karaköy, Kızlan, Emecik, Balıkaşıran, Akçapınar, and ends in Akyaka.

The part from Balıkaşıran to Akyaka can also be biked.

Above: Datça

The Ceramic Gulf (Gulf of Gökova) is a section with 139.2 km of trail.

The section starts from Akyaka and heads west following Turnalı, Sarnıç, Akbük, Alatepe, Ören (Ceramos), Türkevleri, Bozalan, Mazı, Çiftlik, Kızılağaç and arrives in Bodrum (Halicarnassos) finishing in ancient city of Pedasa.

Above: Akyaka

Carian Hinterland section is 174.2 km long and starts from Bozalan heading north and follows Fesleğen, Karacahisar, Milas (Mylasa), Kargıcak, Labraunda, Sarıkaya, Çomakdağ, Kayabükü, Sakarkaya and arrives at the shores of Lake Bafa.

Heading up the Latmos (Mentese mountains) the Trail continues to the summit (1,350 m), Bağarcık, Kullar, Yahşiler, Tekeler, and finishes in Karpuzlu (Alinda) which is the official finish of the Carian Trail.

Above: Karpuzlu

Mugla Environs section consists of 108.5 km of trail.

Heading north to Akyaka, the section passes through Kuyucak, Karabaglar, Mugla, Degirmendere Kanyonu, Ekizce, Bayir, Belen Kahvesi and finishes in the ancient city of Stratonikeia.

It is possible to bike most of this section.

Above: Theatre, Stratonikeia

Dalyan is the smallest section of the trail with only 11 km of length.

The route starts from Dalyan and passes by Kaunos, a historically important sea port with a history that can be tracked back to the 10th century BCE.

The Trail ends in Ekincik Bay.

Above: Dalyan

  • the Phrygian Way

Above: Phrygian Trail map

The Phrygian Trekking Route is one of the longest hiking trails in Türkiye.

Planned with great care for the comfort and enjoyment of hikers, the route passes through the renowned Phrygian Valleys where hikers may visit the ruins of ancient civilisations and enjoy the natural beauty of the region.

The trekking route is 506 kilometres long, and is marked in accordance with international standards.

The route has three starting points and the trails meet at the Yazilikaya (Inscribed Rock), which was a focal point for the Phrygians.

Hikers may start the route at the following points:

1) Gordium (Polatli, Ankara)

Above: Gordion

2) Seydiler (Afyonkarahisar)

Above: Seyydis

3) Yenice Farm Ciftligi (Ahmetoglu Village, Kutahya).

Above: Ahmetoglu

The trail starts at Gordium, the political capital of the Phrygians, then follows the valley of the Porsuk (ancient Tembris) River, passes through Sivrihisar (ancient Spaleia), and arrives at Pessinous (Ballikaya), another important Phrygian settlement.

Above: Sivrihisar

Above: Pessinous

The Trail then enters the valley of the Sakarya (ancient Sangarius) River, where you enter a completely different world.

After the Sakarya Valley, the Trail enters the region known as Mountainous Phrygia.

The Trail then reaches the Yazilikaya, the site of the Midas monument which formed the cult centre of the Phrygians.

Above: Yazilikaya

Here the trail splits into two.

One branch leads to Findikli Village passing through the Asmainler, Zahran, and Inli Valleys, once home to Phrygian settlements.

Above: Findikli

This branch terminates at Yenice Farm on the highway between Kutahya and Eskişehir.

Above: Yenice Farm

The other branch passes through Saricaova, a picturesque Circassian village, and Döğer, town in Afyonkarahisar.

Above: Sancaova, Afyonkarahisar Province

Above: Döğer

The Trail then takes you through Ayazini Town before coming to an end at Seydiler, on the highway between Afyonkarahisar and Ankara.

Hikers who complete these trails will treasure the memory forever.

Above: Byzantine Church, Ayazini

The alpine Kaçkar Dağlari, paralleling the Black Sea, are the most rewarding mountains in Turkey for trekking.

Above: Kaçkar Daği

Also noteworthy are the limestone Toros (Taurus) ranges, especially the lofty Aladağlar mountains south of Cappadocia.

Above: Demirkazik Crest of Aladağ Mountain

Türkiye’s wild mountain ranges are a treat for experienced hikers prepared to carry their own tents and food and cope with few facilities.

The lack of decent maps maps makes mountain exploration a real adventure, but the unspoiled countryside, the hospitality of rural Turks, the fascination of yaylas (summer pastures), and the friendliness of other mountaineers more than compensate.

Above: The Black Sea’s mountain pastures – Türkiye’s very own Switzerland

Turkish trails pass through pastures.

Pastures provide fodder for flocks of sheep and herds of cattle.

The cattle number estimate for 2019 was 15.8 million head.

Chances are a hiker in Türkiye will encounter a cow.

Hopefully, without incident.

In the two nations wherein I am classified as a resident, there remain many trails I long to explore.

My attitude to nature, despite my not being a vegetarian, tends to be one of compassion and cooperation rather than confrontation and conflict.

I would rather be a Wordsworth than a wilderness warrior.

Above: William Wordsworth (1770 – 1850)

William Wordsworth is estimated to have walked a distance of over 175,000 English miles in the course of his life, a life of unclouded happiness.

Wordsworth made walking central to his life and art to a degree almost unparalleled before or since.

He went walking almost every day of his adult life.

Walking was both how he encountered the world and how he composed his poetry.

For Wordsworth, walking was not merely a mode of travelling, but of being.

A walk in the country is the equivalent of going to church, a tour through Westmoreland is as good as a pilgrimage to Jerusalem.

Aldous Huxley

Above: Aldous Huxley (1894 – 1963)

But not all men view the cow as one of God’s creatures.

Not all men avoid the potential aggression of cattle.

Some seek to provoke a beast to rage.

Above: Spanish bullfight underway in the Plaza de Toros Las Ventas in Madrid, 9 October 2005

Bullfighting is a physical contest that involves a bullfighter and animals attempting to subdue, immobilize, or kill a bull, usually according to a set of rules, guidelines, or cultural expectations.

There are several variations, including some forms which involve dancing around or leaping over a cow or bull or attempting to grasp an object tied to the animal’s horns.

The best-known form of bullfighting is Spanish-style bullfighting, practiced in Spain, Portugal, southern France, Mexico, Colombia, Ecuador, Venezuela and Peru.

The Spanish fighting bull is deliberately bred for its aggression and physique, and is raised free range with little human contact.

Above: Bullfight, Plaza de toros de La Malagueta, Málaga, Spain, 15 August 2018

The practice of bullfighting is controversial because of a range of concerns, including animal welfare, funding, and religion.

While some forms are considered a blood sport, in some countries, for example, Spain, it is defined as an art form or cultural event, and local regulations define it as a cultural event or heritage. 

Bullfighting is illegal in most countries, but remains legal in most areas of Spain and Portugal, as well as in some Hispanic American countries and some parts of southern France.

Above: Bullfight, Arles, France, 7 February 2005

Bullfighting traces its roots to prehistoric bull worship and sacrifice in Mesopotamia and the Mediterranean region.

The first recorded bullfight may be the Epic of Gilgamesh, which describes a scene in which Gilgamesh and Enkidu fought and killed the Bull of Heaven:

The Bull seemed indestructible, for hours they fought, till Gilgamesh dancing in front of the Bull, lured it with his tunic and bright weapons, and Enkidu thrust his sword, deep into the Bull’s neck, and killed it.”

Bull leaping was portrayed in Crete and myths related to bulls throughout Greece.

Above: Bull leaping fresco, Knossos, Crete

Bullfighting and the killing of the sacred bull was commonly practiced in ancient Iran and connected to the pre-Zoroastrian god Mithra.

Above: Relief of Mithra, Taq-e Bustan, Iran

The cosmic connotations of the ancient Iranian practice are reflected in Zoroaster’s Gathas and the Avesta.

Above: Depiction of Zoroaster

The killing of the sacred bull (tauroctony) is the essential central iconic act of Mithras, which was commemorated in the mithraeum (temple of Mithras) wherever Roman soldiers were stationed.

The oldest representation of what seems to be a man facing a bull is on the Celtiberian tombstone from Clunia (an ancient Roman city) and the cave painting El toro de hachos, both found in Spain.

Bullfighting is often linked to Rome, where many human-versus-animal events were held as competition and entertainment, the Venationes.

These hunting games spread to Africa, Asia and Europe during Roman times.

Above: Mithras killing a bull

There are also theories that it was introduced into Hispania by the Emperor Claudius as a substitute for gladiators, when he instituted a short-lived ban on gladiatorial combat.

Above: Bust of Claudius (10 BCE – 54 CE)

The latter theory was supported by Robert Graves.

Above: Robert Graves (1895 – 1985)

Spanish colonists took the practice of breeding cattle and bullfighting to the American colonies, the Pacific and Asia.

In the 19th century, areas of southern and southwestern France adopted bullfighting, developing their distinctive form.

Above: The Roman amphitheater at Arles being fitted for a corrida

Religious festivities and royal weddings were celebrated by fights in the local plaza, where noblemen would ride competing for royal favor, and the populace enjoyed the excitement.

In the Middle Ages across Europe, knights would joust in competitions on horseback.

Above: Jousting

In Spain, they began to fight bulls.

In medieval Spain bullfighting was considered a noble sport and reserved for the rich, who could afford to supply and train their animals.

The bull was released into a closed arena where a single fighter on horseback was armed with a lance.

Above: Bull monument, Ronda, Spain

This spectacle was said to be enjoyed by Charlemagne, Alfonso X “the Wise“, and the Almohad caliphs (1121 – 1269), among others.

Above: Bust of Charlemagne (747 – 814)





Above: Portrait of Alfonso X (1221 – 1284)

Above: Almohad Empire at its greatest extent

The greatest Spanish performer of this art is said to have been the knight El Cid (1043 – 1099).

Above: El Cid, Francisco de Goya, 1816

According to a chronicle of the time, in 1128:

When Alfonso VII of Léon and Castile married Berengaria of Barcelonadaughter of Ramon Berenguer III, Count of Barcelona at Saldana, among other celebrations, there were also bullfights.

Above: Portrait of Alfonso VII (1105 – 1157)

Above: Effigy of Berenguela (1116 – 1149), Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Spain

Above: Portrait of Ramon Berenguer IV (r. 1086 – 1131)

In the time of Emperor Charles V, Pedro Ponce de Leon was the most famous bullfighter in Spain and a renovator of the technique of killing the bull on a horse with blindfolded eyes. 

Above: Portrait of Charles V (1500 – 1558)

Juan de Quirós, the best Sevillian poet of that time, dedicated to him a poem in Latin, of which Benito Arias Montano transmits some verses.

Above: Portrait of Juan de Quirós (1487 – 1562)

Above: Benito Arias Montano (1527 – 1598)

Francisco Romero, from Ronda, Spain, is generally regarded as having been the first to introduce the practice of fighting bulls on foot around 1726, using the muleta (a stick with a red cloth sticking from it) in the last stage of the fight and an estoc (a long two-handed sword) to kill the bull.

This type of fighting drew more attention from the crowds.

Thus the modern corrida, or fight, began to take form, as riding noblemen were replaced by commoners on foot.

This new style prompted the construction of dedicated bullrings, initially square, like the Plaza de Armas (main square), and later round, to discourage the cornering of the action.

Above: Portrait of Francisco Romero (1700 – 1763)

The modern style of Spanish bullfighting is credited to Juan Belmonte, generally considered the greatest matador of all time.

Belmonte introduced a daring and revolutionary style, in which he stayed within a few centimeters of the bull throughout the fight.

Although extremely dangerous – (Belmonte was gored on many occasions.) – his style is still seen by most matadors as the ideal to be emulated.

Above: Juan Belmonte (1892 – 1962), on the cover of Time, 5 January 1925

Spanish-style bullfighting is called corrida de toros (“coursing of bulls“) or la fiesta (“festival”).

In the traditional corrida, three matadores each fight two bulls, each of which is between four and six years old and weighs no less than 460 kg (1,014 lb).

Each matador has six assistants:

Two picadores (lancers mounted on horseback), three banderilleros  – who along with the matadors are collectively known as toreros (bullfighters) – and a mozo de espadas (sword page).

Collectively they comprise a cuadrilla (entourage).

Above: Bullfight, Barcelona, Spain, 1900

In Spanish the more general torero or diestro (‘right-hander’) is used for the lead fighter, and only when needed to distinguish a man is the full title matador de toros used.

In English, “matador” is generally used for the bullfighter.

Above: Enrique Simonet’s La suerte de varas (1899) depicts Spanish-style bullfighting in a bullring, Madrid, Spain

The modern corrida is highly ritualized, with three distinct stages or tercios (“thirds“) – the start of each being announced by a bugle sound.

The participants enter the arena in a parade, called the paseíllo, to salute the presiding dignitary, accompanied by band music.

Torero costumes are inspired by 17th-century Andalusian clothing, and matadores are easily distinguished by the gold of their traje de luces (“suit of lights“), as opposed to the lesser banderilleros, who are also known as toreros de plata (“bullfighters of silver“).

The bull is released into the ring, where he is tested for ferocity by the matador and banderilleros with the magenta and gold capote (“cape“).

This is the first stage, the tercio de varas (“the lancing third“).

The matador confronts the bull with the capote, performing a series of passes and observing the behavior and quirks of the bull.

Next, a picador enters the arena on horseback armed with a vara (lance).

To protect the horse from the bull’s horns, the animal wears a protective, padded covering called peto.

Prior to 1930, the horses did not wear any protection.

Often the bull would disembowel the horse during this stage.

Until the use of protection was instituted, the number of horses killed during a fiesta generally exceeded the number of bulls killed.

At this point, the picador stabs just behind the morrillo, a mound of muscle on the fighting bull’s neck, weakening the neck muscles and leading to the animal’s first loss of blood.

The manner in which the bull charges the horse provides important clues to the matador about the bull such as which horn the bull favours.

As a result of the injury and also the fatigue of striving to injure the armoured heavy horse, the bull holds its head and horns slightly lower during the following stages of the fight.

This ultimately enables the matador to perform the killing thrust later in the performance.

The encounter with the picador often fundamentally changes the behavior of a bull.

Distracted and unengaging bulls will become more focused and stay on a single target instead of charging at everything that moves, conserving their diminished energy reserves.

In the next stage, the tercio de banderillas (“the third of banderillas“), each of the three banderilleros attempts to plant two banderillas, sharp barbed sticks, into the bull’s shoulders.

These anger and agitate the bull reinvigorating him from the aplomado (‘leadened‘) state his attacks on the horse and injuries from the lance left him in.

Sometimes a matador will place his own banderillas.

If so, he usually embellishes this part of his performance and employs more varied maneuvers than the standard al cuarteo method commonly used by banderilleros.

In the final stage, the tercio de muerte (“the third of death“), the matador re-enters the ring alone with a smaller red cloth, or muleta, and a sword.

It is a common misconception that the colour red is supposed to anger the bull.

The animals are functionally colour blind in this respect:

The bull is incited to charge by the movement of the muleta. 

The muleta is thought to be red to mask the bull’s blood, although the colour is now a matter of tradition.

The matador uses his muleta to attract the bull in a series of passes, which serve the dual purpose of wearing the animal down for the kill and creating sculptural forms between man and animal that can fascinate or thrill the audience, and which when linked together in a rhythm create a dance of passes, or faena.

The matador will often try to enhance the drama of the dance by bringing the bull’s horns especially close to his body.

The faena refers to the entire performance with the muleta.

The faena is usually broken down into tandas, or “series“, of passes.

The faena ends with a final series of passes in which the matador, using the cape, tries to maneuver the bull into a position to stab it between the shoulder blades going over the horns and thus exposing his own body to the bull.

The sword is called estoque, and the act of thrusting the sword is called an estocada.

During the initial series, while the matador in part is performing for the crowd, he uses a fake sword (estoque simulado).

This is made of wood or aluminum, making it lighter and much easier to handle.

The estoque de verdad (real sword) is made out of steel.

At the end of the tercio de muerte, when the matador has finished his faena, he will change swords to take up the steel one.

He performs the estocada with the intent of piercing the heart or aorta, or severing other major blood vessels to induce a quick death if all goes according to plan.

Often this does not happen and repeated efforts must be made to bring the bull down, sometimes the matador changing to the ‘descabello‘, which resembles a sword, but is actually a heavy dagger blade at the end of a steel rod which is thrust between the cervical vertebrae to sever the spinal column and induce instant death.

Even if the descabello is not required and the bull falls quickly from the sword one of the banderilleros will perform this function with an actual dagger to ensure the bull is dead.

If the matador has performed particularly well, the crowd may petition the President by waving white handkerchiefs to award the matador an ear of the bull.

If his performance was exceptional, the President will award two ears.

In certain more rural rings, the practice includes an award of the bull’s tail.

Very rarely, if the public and the matador believe that the bull has fought extremely bravely – and the breeder of the bull agrees to have it return to the ranch – the event’s President may grant a pardon (indulto).

If the indulto is granted, the bull’s life is spared.

It leaves the ring alive and is returned to its home ranch for treatment and then to become a semental, or seed-bull, for the rest of its life.

Spanish-style bullfighting is normally fatal for the bull, but it is also dangerous for the matador.

The danger for the bullfighter is essential.

If there is no danger, it is not considered bullfighting in Spain.

Matadors are usually gored every season, with picadors and banderilleros being gored less often.

With the discovery of antibiotics and advances in surgical techniques, fatalities are now rare, although over the past three centuries 534 professional bullfighters have died in the ring or from injuries sustained there.

Above: Francisco de Goya, Death of the Picador, 1793

Most recently, Iván Fandiño died of injuries he sustained after being gored by a bull on 17 June 2017, in Aire-sur-l’Adour, France.

Above: Iván Fandiño (1980 – 2017)

Some matadors, notably Juan Belmonte, have been seriously gored many times:

According to Ernest Hemingway, Belmonte’s legs were marred by many ugly scars.

A special type of surgeon has developed, in Spain and elsewhere, to treat cornadas, or horn wounds.

Above: Juan Belmonte (1892 – 1962)

A digression about Hemingway:

Ernest Miller Hemingway (1899 – 1961) was an American novelist, short-story writer, and journalist.

His economical and understated style — which he termed the iceberg theory — had a strong influence on 20th-century fiction, while his adventurous lifestyle and public image brought him admiration from later generations.

Hemingway produced most of his work between the mid-1920s and the mid-1950s.

He was awarded the 1954 Nobel Prize in Literature.

He published seven novels, six short-story collections, and two nonfiction works.

Three of his novels, four short-story collections, and three nonfiction works were published posthumously.

Many of his works are considered classics of American literature.

Above: Ernest Hemingway (1899 – 1961)

A digression within a digression:

The iceberg theory (or theory of omission) is a writing technique coined by American writer Ernest Hemingway.

As a young journalist, Hemingway had to focus his newspaper reports on immediate events, with very little context or interpretation.

When he became a writer of short stories, he retained this minimalistic style, focusing on surface elements without explicitly discussing underlying themes.

Hemingway believed the deeper meaning of a story should not be evident on the surface, but should shine through implicitly.

In 1923, Hemingway conceived of the idea of a new theory of writing after finishing his short story “Out of Season“.

In A Moveable Feast (1964), his posthumously published memoirs about his years as a young writer in Paris, he explains:

I omitted the real end of “Out of Season” which was that the old man hanged himself.

This was omitted on my new theory that you could omit anything.

The omitted part would strengthen the story.” 

In chapter 16 of Death in the Afternoon he compares his theory about writing to an iceberg.

Hemingway’s biographer Carlos Baker believed that as a writer of short stories Hemingway learned:

How to get the most from the least, how to prune language and avoid waste motion, how to multiply intensities, and how to tell nothing but the truth in a way that allowed for telling more than the truth.

Baker also notes that the writing style of the “iceberg theory” suggests that a story’s narrative and nuanced complexities, complete with symbolism, operate under the surface of the story itself.

For example, Hemingway believed a writer could describe an action, such as Nick Adams fishing in “Big Two-Hearted River“, while conveying a different message about the action itself — Nick Adams concentrating on fishing to the extent that he does not have to think about the unpleasantness of his war experience. 

In his essay “The Art of the Short Story“, Hemingway is clear about his method:

A few things I have found to be true.

If you leave out important things or events that you know about, the story is strengthened.

If you leave or skip something because you do not know it, the story will be worthless.

The test of any story is how very good the stuff that you, not your editors, omit.” 

A writer explained how it brings a story gravitas:

Hemingway said that only the tip of the iceberg showed in fiction — your reader will see only what is above the water — but the knowledge that you have about your character that never makes it into the story acts as the bulk of the iceberg.

And that is what gives your story weight and gravitas.

Jenna Blum , The Author at Work

From reading Rudyard Kipling, Hemingway absorbed the practice of shortening prose as much as it could take.

Above: Rudyard Kipling (1865 – 1936)

Of the concept of omission, Hemingway wrote in “The Art of the Short Story“:

You could omit anything if you knew that you omitted and the omitted part would strengthen the story and make people feel something more than they understood.

By making invisible the structure of the story, he believed the author strengthened the piece of fiction and that the “quality of a piece could be judged by the quality of the material the author eliminated.

His style added to the aesthetic: using “declarative sentences and direct representations of the visible world” with simple and plain language, Hemingway became “the most influential prose stylist in the 20th century” according to biographer Meyers.

In her paper “Hemingway’s Camera Eye“, Zoe Trodd explains that Hemingway uses repetition in prose to build a collage of snapshots to create an entire picture.

Of his iceberg theory, she claims, it “is also a glacier waterfall, infused with movement by his multi-focal aesthetic“.

Furthermore, she believes that Hemingway’s iceberg theory “demanded that the reader feel the whole story” and that the reader is meant to “fill the gaps left by his omissions with their feelings“.

Above: Zoe Trodd

Hemingway scholar Jackson Benson believes Hemingway used autobiographical details to work as framing devices to write about life in general — not only about his life.

For example, Benson postulates that Hemingway used his experiences and drew them out further with “what if” scenarios:

What if I were wounded in such a way that I could not sleep at night?

What if I were wounded and made crazy, what would happen if I were sent back to the front?

By separating himself from the characters he created, Hemingway strengthens the drama.

The means of achieving a strong drama is to minimize, or omit, the feelings that produced the fiction he wrote.

Hemingway’s iceberg theory highlights the symbolic implications of art.

He makes use of physical action to provide an interpretation of the nature of man’s existence.

It can be convincingly proved that, “while representing human life through fictional forms, he has consistently set man against the background of his world and universe to examine the human situation from various points of view.”

We return to the larger digression:

Hemingway was raised in Oak Park, Illinois.

After high school, he was a reporter for a few months for the Kansas City Star before leaving for the Italian Front to enlist as an ambulance driver in World War I.

In 1918, he was seriously wounded and returned home.

His wartime experiences formed the basis for his novel A Farewell to Arms (1929).

In the 1920s Hemingway lived in Paris as a foreign correspondent for the Toronto Star.

Americans were drawn to Paris in the Roaring Twenties by the favourable exchange rate, with as many as 200,000 English-speaking expatriates living there.

The Paris Tribune reported in 1925 that Paris had an American hospital, an American library, and an American Chamber of Commerce. 

Many American writers were disenchanted with the US, where they found less artistic freedom than in Europe.

(For example, Hemingway was in Paris during the period when Ulysses, written by his friend James Joyce, was banned and burned in New York.)

Above: James Joyce (1882 – 1941)

Hemingway travelled to Smyrna to report on the Greco-Turkish War (1919 – 1922).

He wanted to use his journalism experience to write fiction, believing that a story could be based on real events when a writer distilled his own experiences in such a way that, according to biographer Jeffrey Meyers, “what he made up was truer than what he remembered“.

Above: The Great Fire of Smyrna, 13 – 22 September 1922

In 1921, he married Hadley Richardson (1891 – 1979), the first of four wives.

Above: Hadley and Ernest Hemingway in Chamby, Switzerland, 1922

With his wife Hadley, Hemingway first visited the Festival of San Fermin in Pamplona in 1923, where he was following his recent passion for bullfighting.

Above: Festival of San Fermin, Pamplona, Spain

The couple returned to Pamplona in 1924 — enjoying the trip immensely — this time accompanied by Chink Dorman-Smith, John Dos Passos, Donald Ogden Stewart and his wife.

Above: Major General Sir Eric “Chink” Dorman-Smith (1895 – 1969): Major General Dorman-Smith (left) talking with the Chief of the Imperial General Staff, General Sir Alan Brooke at El Alamein.

Above: John dos Passos (1896 – 1970)

Above: Donald Ogden Stewart (1894 – 1980)

The Hemingways returned a third time in June 1925 and stayed at the hotel of his friend Juanito Quintana.

Above: Juanito Quintana (1891 – 1974)

That year, they brought with them a different group of American and British expatriates: Hemingway’s Michigan boyhood friend Bill Smith, Stewart, recently divorced Duff, Lady Twysden, her lover Pat Guthrie, and Harold Loeb.

Above: Always exploring, Ernest Hemingway spent much of his youth exploring northern Michigan. Here he seen canoeing as a young man.

Above: Mary Duff Stirling Smurthwaite, Lady Twysden (1891 – 1938)

Above: Harold Loeb (1891 – 1974)

Hemingway’s memory spanning multiple trips might explain the inconsistent timeframe in the novel indicating both 1924 and 1925.

In Pamplona, the group quickly disintegrated.

Above: Hemingway (left), with Harold Loeb, Duff Twysden (in hat), Hadley Richardson, Donald Ogden Stewart (obscured), and Pat Guthrie (far right) at a café in Pamplona, Spain, July 1925

Hemingway, attracted to Duff, was jealous of Loeb, who had recently been on a romantic getaway with her.

By the end of the week the two men had a public fistfight.

Against this background was the influence of the young matador from Ronda, Cayetano Ordóñez, whose brilliance in the bullring affected the spectators.

Ordóñez honored Hemingway’s wife by presenting her, from the bullring, with the ear of a bull he killed.

Above: Statue of Cayetano Ordóñez (1904 – 1961), Ronda, Spain

Outside of Pamplona, the fishing trip to the Irati River (near Burgette in Navarre) was marred by polluted water.

Above: Irati River

Hemingway had intended to write a nonfiction book about bullfighting, but then decided that the week’s experiences had presented him with enough material for a novel.

A few days after the fiesta ended, on his birthday (21 July), he began writing what would eventually become The Sun Also Rises.

By 17 August, with 14 chapters written and a working title of Fiesta chosen, Hemingway returned to Paris.

He finished the draft on 21 September 1925, writing a foreword the following weekend and changing the title to The Lost Generation.

A few months later, in December 1925, Hemingway and his wife spent the winter in Schruns, Austria, where he began revising the manuscript extensively. 

Above: Schruns, Austria

Pauline Pfeiffer (1895 – 1951) joined them in January, and — against Hadley’s advice — urged him to sign a contract with Scribner’s.

Hemingway left Austria for a quick trip to New York to meet with the publishers, and on his return, during a stop in Paris, began an affair with Pauline.

Above: Ernest and Pauline Hemingway

He returned to Schruns to finish the revisions in March. 

In June, he was in Pamplona with both Richardson and Pfeiffer.

On their return to Paris, Richardson asked for a separation, and left for the south of France. 

In August, alone in Paris, Hemingway completed the proofs, dedicating the novel to his wife and son.

After the publication of the book in October, Hadley asked for a divorce.

Hemingway subsequently gave her the book’s royalties.

Hemingway’s debut novel, The Sun Also Rises, was published in 1926.

The Sun Also Rises is a 1926 novel by Hemingway, his first, that portrays American and British expatriates who travel from Paris to the Festival of San Fermin in Pamplona to watch the running of the bulls and the bullfights.

An early and enduring modernist novel, it received mixed reviews upon publication.

However, Hemingway biographer Jeffrey Meyers writes that it is now “recognized as Hemingway’s greatest work“, and Hemingway scholar Linda Wagner-Martin calls it his most important novel.

The novel is a roman à clef:

The characters are based on real people in Hemingway’s circle, and the action is based on real events, particularly Hemingway’s life in Paris in the 1920s and a trip to Spain in 1925 for the Pamplona festival and fishing in the Pyrenees.

Hemingway presents his notion that the “Lost Generation“— considered to have been decadent, dissolute, and irretrievably damaged by World War I — was in fact resilient and strong.

Hemingway investigates the themes of love and death, the revivifying power of nature, and the concept of masculinity.

His spare writing style, combined with his restrained use of description to convey characterizations and action, demonstrates his “iceberg theory” of writing.

On the surface, the novel is a love story between the protagonist Jake Barnes — a man whose war wound has made him unable to have sex — and the promiscuous divorcée Lady Brett Ashley.

The characters form a group, sharing similar norms, and each greatly affected by the war.

Hemingway captures the angst of the age and transcends the love story of Brett and Jake, although they are representative of the period:

Brett is starved for reassurance and love.

Jake is sexually maimed.

His wound symbolizes the disability of the age, the disillusion, and the frustrations felt by an entire generation.

Hemingway thought he lost touch with American values while living in Paris, but his biographer Michael Reynolds claims the opposite, seeing evidence of the author’s midwestern American values in the novel.

Hemingway admired hard work.

He portrayed the matadors and the prostitutes, who work for a living, in a positive manner, but Brett, who prostitutes herself, is emblematic of “the rotten crowd” living on inherited money.

It is Jake, the working journalist, who pays the bills again and again when those who can pay do not.

Hemingway shows, through Jake‘s actions, his disapproval of the people who did not pay up.

Reynolds says that Hemingway shows the tragedy, not so much of the decadence of the Montparnasse crowd, but of the decline in American values of the period.

As such, the author created an American hero who is impotent and powerless.

Jake becomes the moral center of the story.

He never considers himself part of the expatriate crowd because he is a working man.

To Jake a working man is genuine and authentic, and those who do not work for a living spend their lives posing.

Jake is an expatriate American journalist living in Paris, while Brett is a twice-divorced Englishwoman with bobbed hair and numerous love affairs, and embodies the new sexual freedom of the 1920s.

Brett‘s affair with Jake‘s college friend Robert Cohn causes Jake to be upset and break off his friendship with Robert.

Her seduction of the 19-year-old matador Romero causes Jake to lose his good reputation among the Spaniards in Pamplona.

Above: Plaza Castillo, Pamplona, Spain

Book One is set in the café society of young American expatriates in Paris.

In the opening scenes, Jake plays tennis with Robert, picks up a prostitute (Georgette), and runs into Brett and Count Mippipopolous in a nightclub.

Later, Brett tells Jake she loves him, but they both know that they have no chance at a stable relationship.

In Book Two, Jake is joined by Bill Gorton, recently arrived from New York, and Brett‘s fiancé Mike Campbell, who arrives from Scotland.

Jake and Bill travel south and meet Robert at Bayonne for a fishing trip in the hills northeast of Pamplona.

Above: Bayonne, France

Instead of fishing, Robert stays in Pamplona to wait for the overdue Brett and Mike.

Robert had an affair with Brett a few weeks earlier and still feels possessive of her despite her engagement to Mike.

After Jake and Bill enjoy five days of fishing the streams near Burguete, they rejoin the group in Pamplona.

Above: Burguete, Spain

All begin to drink heavily.

Robert is resented by the others, who taunt him with antisemitic remarks.

During the Fiesta the characters drink, eat, watch the running of the bulls, attend bullfights, and bicker with each other.

Above: Running of the Bulls, Pamplona

Jake introduces Brett to the 19-year-old matador Romero at the Hotel Montoya.

Above: The Hotel Montoya

She is smitten with him and seduces him.

The jealous tension among the men builds — Jake, Mike, Robert, and Romero each want Brett.

Robert, who had been a champion boxer in college, has a fistfight with Jake and Mike, and another with Romero, whom he beats up.

Despite his injuries, Romero continues to perform brilliantly in the bullring.

In The Sun Also Rises, Hemingway contrasts Paris with Pamplona, and the frenzy of the fiesta with the tranquillity of the Spanish countryside.

Spain was Hemingway’s favorite European country.

He considered it a healthy place, and the only country “that hasn’t been shot to pieces“.

Above: Flag of Spain

He was profoundly affected by the spectacle of bullfighting, writing:

It isn’t just brutal like they always told us.

It’s a great tragedy — and the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen and takes more guts and skill and guts again than anything possibly could.

It’s just like having a ringside seat at the war with nothing going to happen to you.

He demonstrated what he considered the purity in the culture of bullfighting — called afición — and presented it as an authentic way of life, contrasted against the inauthenticity of the Parisian bohemians.

To be accepted as an aficionado was rare for a non-Spaniard.

Jake goes through a difficult process to gain acceptance by the “fellowship of afición.

The Hemingway scholar Allen Josephs thinks the novel is centered on the corrida (the bullfighting), and how each character reacts to it.

Brett seduces the young matador.

Cohn fails to understand and expects to be bored.

Jake understands fully because only he moves between the world of the inauthentic expatriates and the authentic Spaniards.

The hotel keeper Montoya is the keeper of the faith.

Romero is the artist in the ring — innocent and perfect, the one who bravely faces death.

The corrida is presented as an idealized drama in which the matador faces death, creating a moment of existentialism or nada (nothingness), broken when he vanquishes death by killing the bull.

Hemingway presents matadors as heroic characters dancing in a bullring.

He considered the bullring as war with precise rules, in contrast to the messiness of the real war that he, and by extension Jake, experienced.

Critic Kenneth Kinnamon notes that young Romero is the novel’s only honourable character.

Hemingway named Romero after Pedro Romero, an 18th-century bullfighter who killed thousands of bulls in the most difficult manner:

Having the bull impale itself on his sword as he stood perfectly still.

Reynolds says Romero, who symbolizes the classically pure matador, is the “one idealized figure in the novel“.

Josephs says that when Hemingway changed Romero‘s name from Guerrita and imbued him with the characteristics of the historical Romero, he also changed the scene in which Romero kills a bull to one of recibiendo (receiving the bull) in homage to the historical namesake.

Book Three shows the characters in the aftermath of the Fiesta.

Sober again, they leave Pamplona.

Bill returns to Paris, Mike stays in Bayonne, and Jake goes to San Sebastián on the northern coast of Spain.

Above: Images of San Sebastián, Spain

As Jake is about to return to Paris, he receives a telegram from Brett asking for help.

She had gone to Madrid with Romero.

He finds her there in a cheap hotel, without money, and without Romero.

She announces she has decided to go back to Mike.

The novel ends with Jake and Brett in a taxi speaking of the things that might have been.

Above: Madrid, Spain

In Spain in mid-1929, Hemingway researched his next work, Death in the Afternoon.

He wanted to write a comprehensive treatise on bullfighting, explaining the toreros and corridas complete with glossaries and appendices, because he believed bullfighting was “of great tragic interest, being literally of life and death“.

Death in the Afternoon is a non-fiction book written by Hemingway about the ceremony and traditions of Spanish bullfighting.

The book provides a look at the history and the Spanish traditions of bullfighting.

It also contains a deeper contemplation on the nature of fear and courage.

While essentially a guide book, there are three main sections:

  • Hemingway’s work
  • pictures
  • a glossary of terms.

Hemingway became a bullfighting aficionado after seeing the Pamplona fiesta in the 1920s, which he wrote about in The Sun Also Rises

In Death in the Afternoon, Hemingway explores the metaphysics of bullfighting — the ritualized, almost religious practice — that he considered analogous to the writer’s search for meaning and the essence of life.

In bullfighting, he found the elemental nature of life and death. 

Marianne Wiggins has written of Death in the Afternoon:

Read it for the writing, for the way it’s told.

He’ll make you like bullfighting.

You read enough and long enough, he’ll make you love it, he’s relentless“.

Above: Marianne Wiggins

In his writings on Spain, Hemingway was influenced by the Spanish master Pio Baroja.

When Hemingway won the Nobel Prize, he traveled to see Baroja, then on his death bed, specifically to tell him he thought Baroja deserved the prize more than he.

Above: Pio Baroja (1872 – 1956)

Pauline and Ernest divorced after he returned from the Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939), which he covered as a journalist and which was the basis for his novel For Whom the Bell Tolls (1940). 

Martha Gellhorn became his third wife in 1940.

Above: Martha Gellhorn (1908 – 1998)

He and Gellhorn separated after he met Mary Welsh in London during World War II.

Above: Mary Welsh (1908 – 1986)

Hemingway was present with Allied troops as a journalist at the Normandy landings and the liberation of Paris.

Above: Omaha Beach, Normandy, France, 6 June 1944

Above: The liberation of Paris, 26 August 1944

He maintained permanent residences in Key West, Florida (in the 1930s) and in Cuba (in the 1940s and 1950s).

Above: Ernest Hemingway House, Key West, Florida

He almost died in 1954 after two plane crashes on successive days, with injuries leaving him in pain and ill health for much of the rest of his life.

In 1959, he bought a house in Ketchum, Idaho, where, in mid-1961, he committed suicide.

Above: Ernest Hemingway House, Ketchum, Idaho

The Dangerous Summer is a nonfiction book by Ernest Hemingway published posthumously in 1985 and written in 1959 and 1960.

The book describes the rivalry between bullfighters Luis Miguel Dominguin and his brother-in-law, Antonio Ordóñez, during the “dangerous summer” of 1959.

Above: Luis Miguel Dominguin (1926 – 1996)

Above: Statue of Antonio Ordóñez (1932 – 1998), Plaza de Toros, Ronda

It has been cited as Hemingway’s last book.

The Dangerous Summer is an edited version of a 75,000-word manuscript Hemingway wrote between October 1959 and May 1960 as an assignment from Life magazine.

Hemingway summoned his close friend Will Lang Jr. to come to Spain to deliver the story to Life.

Popular author James Michener (Tales of the South PacificHawaiiCentennialThe SourcePoland) wrote the 33-page introduction which includes Michener’s personal knowledge of bullfights and famous matadors, a comprehensive glossary of terms related to each stage of a bullfight, and unvarnished personal anecdotes of Hemingway.

Above: James Michener (1907 – 1997)

The book charts the rise of Antonio Ordóñez (the son of Cayetano Ordóñez, the bullfighter whose technique and ring exploits Hemingway fictionalized in his novel, The Sun Also Rises) during a season of bullfights during 1959.

During a fight on 13 May 1959, in Aranjuez, Ordóñez is badly gored, but remains in the ring and kills the bull, a performance rewarded by trophies of both the bull’s ears, its tail, and a hoof.

Above: Aranjuez, Spain

By contrast, Luis Miguel Dominguín is already famous as a bullfighter and returns to the ring after several years of retirement.

Less naturally gifted than Ordóñez, his pride and self-confidence draw him into an intense rivalry with the newcomer, and the two meet in the ring several times during the season. 

Starting the season supremely confident, Dominguín is slowly humbled by this competition.

While Ordóñez displays breathtaking skill and artistry in his fights, performing highly dangerous, classical passés, Dominguín often resorts to what Hemingway describes as “tricks“, moves that look impressive to the crowd but that are actually much safer.

Nevertheless, Dominguín is gored badly at a fight in Valencia, and Ordóñez is gored shortly afterwards.

Above: Images of Valencia, Spain

Less than a month later, the two bullfighters meet in the ring again for what Hemingway described as “one of the greatest bullfights I have ever seen“, “an almost perfect bullfight unmarred by any tricks.” 

From the six bulls which they fight, the pair win ten ears, four tails and two hooves as trophies, an extraordinary feat.

Their final meeting takes place in Bilbao, with Dominguín receiving a near-fatal goring and Ordóñez demonstrating absolute mastery by performing the recibiendo kill, one of the oldest and most dangerous moves.

Above: Bilbao, Spain

Ordóñez’s recibiendo requires three attempts, displaying the fighter’s artistry and bravery that Hemingway likens to that of legendary bullfighter Pedro Romero.

Above: Pedro Romero (1754 – 1839)

Thus endeth the digressive distractions.

The bullring has a chapel where a matador can pray before the corrida, and where a priest can be found in case a sacrament is needed.

The most relevant sacrament, now called “the Anointing of the Sick“, was formerly known as “Extreme Unction” or the “Last Rites“.

Above: Chapel, Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, Madrid

The media often reports the more horrific of bullfighting injuries, such as the September 2011 goring of matador Juan José Padilla’s head by a bull in Zaragoza, resulting in the loss of his left eye, use of his right ear, and facial paralysis.

He returned to bullfighting five months later with an eyepatch, multiple titanium plates in his skull, and the nickname ‘The Pirate‘.

Above: Juan José Padilla

Until the early 20th century, the horses were unprotected and were commonly gored and killed, or left close to death (intestines destroyed, for example).

The horses used were old and worn-out, with little value.

Starting in the 20th century horses were protected by thick blankets.

Wounds, though not unknown, were less common and less serious.

Despite its slow decrease in popularity among younger generations, bullfighting remains a widespread cultural activity throughout Spain.

A 2016 poll reported that 58% of Spaniards aged 16 to 65 opposed bullfighting against 19% who supported it.

The support was lower among the younger population, with only 7% of respondents aged 16 to 24 supporting bullfighting, vs. 29% support within 55 to 65 age group.

According to the same poll, 67% of respondents felt “little to not at all” proud to live in a country where bullfighting was a cultural tradition (84% among 16 to 24 age group).

Between 2007 and 2014, the number of corridas held in Spain decreased by 60%. 

In 2007 there were 3,651 bullfighting and bull-related events in Spain but by 2018, the number of bullfights had decreased to 1,521 – a historic low.

A September 2019 Spanish government report showed that only 8% of the population had attended a bull-related event in 2018.

Of this percentage, 5.9% attended a bullfight while the remainder attended other bull-related events, such as the running of the bulls.

When asked to gauge their interest in bullfighting on a scale of 0 through 10, only 5.9% responded with 9–10.

A majority of 65% of responded with 0–2.

Among those aged 15–19, this figure was 72.1%, and for those aged 20–24, it reached 76.4%.

With a fall in attendance, the bullfighting sector has come under financial stress, as many local authorities have reduced subsidies because of public criticism.

When the COVID-19 pandemic hit Spain and the country entered into lockdown in March 2020, all bullfighting events were cancelled indefinitely.

In mid-May 2020, after more than 26,000 Spaniards had died from the virus, the bullfighting industry demanded that the government compensate them for their losses, estimated at €700 million.

This prompted outrage, and more than 100,000 people signed a petition launched by Anima Naturalis urging the government not to rescue “spectacles based on the abuse and mistreatment of animals” with taxpayer money at a time when people were struggling to survive and public finances were already heavily strained.

A 29–31 May 2020 YouGov survey commissioned by HuffPost showed that 52% of the 1,001 Spaniards questioned wanted to ban bullfighting, 35% were opposed, 10% did not know and 2% refused to answer.

A strong majority of 78% answered that corridas should no longer be partially subsidised by the government, with 12% favoring subsidies and 10% undecided.

When asked whether bullfighting was culture or mistreatment, 40% replied that it is mistreatment alone, 18% replied that it is culture alone and 37% replied that it is both.

Of the respondents, 53% had never attended a corrida.

In the late 19th and early 20th century, some Spanish regeneracionista (a kind of political movement to make Spain great again) intellectuals protested against what they called the policy of pan y toros (“bread and bulls“), an analogue of Roman panem et circenses (bread and circuses).

Such belief was part of the wider current of thought known as anti-flamenquismo, a campaign against the popularity of both bullfighting and flamenco music, which were believed to be “oriental” elements of Spanish culture that were responsible for Spain’s perceived culture gap compared to the rest of Europe.

Above: Flamenco, Córdoba, Spain

In Francoist Spain (1939 – 1975), bullfights received great governmental support, as they were considered a demonstration of greatness of the Spanish nation and received the name of fiesta nacional.

Bullfighting was therefore highly associated with the regime.

After Spain’s transition to democracy, popular support for bullfighting declined.

Above: Francisco Franco (1892 – 1975)

Opposition to bullfighting from Spain’s political parties is typically highest among those on the left. 

PSOE (Partido Socialista Obrero Español / the Spanish Socialist Workers’ Party), the main centre-left political party, has distanced itself from bullfighting but refuses to ban it.

While Spain’s largest left-wing political party Podemos (“we can“) has repeatedly called for referenda on the matter and has shown disapproval of the practise. 

PP (Partido Popular / People’s Party), the largest conservative party, strongly supports bullfighting and has requested large public subsidies for it.

The government of José Luis Rodriguez Zapatero was the first to oppose bullfighting, prohibiting children under 14 from attending events and imposing a six-year ban on live bullfights broadcast on state-run national television, although the latter measure was reversed after Zapatero’s party lost in the 2011 elections.

Above: José Luis Rodriguez Zapatero

Despite its long history in Barcelona, bullfighting was outlawed across the Catalonia region in 2010 following a campaign led by an animal-rights civic platform called “Prou!” (“Enough!” in Catalan).

Critics have argued that the ban was motivated by issues of Catalan separatism and identity politics. 

In October 2016, the Constitutional Court ruled that the regional Catalan Parliament did not have the authority to ban events that are legal in Spain.

Above: Flag of Catalonia

The Spanish Royal Family is divided on the issue.

Above: Coat of arms of the Spanish Monarchy

Former Queen Consort Sofía of Spain disapproves of bullfights.

Above: Queen Sofía of Spain

Former King Juan Carlos occasionally presided over bullfights from the royal box.

Above: King Juan Carlos I of Spain

Their daughter Princess Elena is well-known for her support of the practise and often attends bullfights.

Above: Princess Elena of Spain

Pro-bullfighting supporters include former Prime Minister Mariano Rajoy and his PP party, as well as most leaders of the opposition PSOE party, including former Prime Minister Felipe Gonzalez and the current Presidents of Andalusia (Juan Manuel Moreno), Extremadura (Guillermo Fernàndez Vara), and Castilla – La Mancha (Emiliano Garcia – Page).

Above: Mariano Rajoy

The question of public funding is particularly controversial in Spain, since widely disparaged claims have been made by supporters and opponents of bullfighting.

According to government figures, bullfighting in Spain generates €1.6 billion a year and 200,000 jobs, 57,000 of which are directly linked to the industry.

Furthermore, bullfighting is the cultural activity that generates the most tax revenue for the Spanish state (€45 million in VAT – value added taxes –  and over €12 million in social security).

According to a poll, 73% of Spaniards oppose public funding for bullfighting activities.

Above: Bullfighting in Spain by province

Critics often claim that bullfighting is financed with public money.

However, though bullfighting attracts 25 million spectators annually, it represents just 0.01% of state subsidies allocated to cultural activities, and less than 3% of the cultural budget of regional, provincial and local authorities.

The bulk of subsidies is paid by town halls in localities where there is a historical tradition and support for bullfighting and related events, which are often held free of charge to participants and spectators.

In 1991, the Canary Islands became the first Spanish Autonomous Community to ban bullfighting, when they legislated to ban spectacles that involve cruelty to animals, with the exception of cockfighting, which is traditional in some towns in the Islands. 

Bullfighting was never popular in the Canary Islands.

Some supporters of bullfighting and even Lorenzo Olarte Cullen, Canarian head of government at the time, have argued that the fighting bull is not a “domestic animal” and hence the law does not ban bullfighting.

The absence of spectacles since 1984 would be due to lack of demand.

In the rest of Spain, national laws against cruelty to animals have abolished most blood sports, but specifically exempt bullfighting.

Above: Flag of the Canary Islands

On 18 December 2009, the Parliament of Catalonia, one of Spain’s seventeen Autonomous Communities, approved by majority the preparation of a law to ban bullfighting in Catalonia, as a response to a popular initiative against bullfighting that gathered more than 180,000 signatures. 

On 28 July 2010, with the two main parties allowing their members a free vote, the ban was passed 68 to 55, with nine abstentions.

This meant Catalonia became the second Community of Spain (The first was the Canary Islands in 1991), and the first on the Mainland, to ban bullfighting.

The ban took effect on 1 January 2012, and affected only the one remaining functioning Catalan bullring, the Plaza de toros Monumental de Barcelona.

It did not affect the correbous, a traditional game of the Ebro area (south of Catalonia) where lighted flares are attached to a bull’s horns.

The correbous are seen mainly in the municipalities in the south of Tarragona, with the exceptions of a few other towns in other provinces of Catalonia.

A movement emerged to revoke the ban in the Spanish Congress, citing the value of bullfighting as “cultural heritage“.

The proposal was backed by the majority of parliamentarians in 2013.

In October 2016 the Spanish Constitutional Court ruled that the regional Catalan Parliament had no competence to ban any kind of spectacle that is legal in Spain.

The Spanish Parliament passed a law in 2013 stating that bullfighting is an ‘indisputable‘ part of Spain’s ‘cultural heritage‘.

This law was used by the Spanish Constitutional Court in 2016 to overturn the Catalan ban of 2012.

Above: Spanish Constitutional Court, Madrid, Spain

When the island of Mallorca adopted a law in 2017 that prohibited the killing of a bull during a fight, this law was also declared partially unconstitutional by the Spanish Constitutional Court in 2018, as the judges ruled that the death of the bull was part of the essence of a corrida.

Above: Flag of Mallorca

In Galicia, bullfighting has been banned in many cities by the local governments.

Bullfighting has never had an important following in the region.

Above: Flag of Galicia

The European Union does not subsidize bullfighting but it does subsidize cattle farming in general, which also benefits those who rear Spanish fighting bulls.

In 2015, 438 of 687 members of the European Parliament voted in favour of amending the 2016 EU budget to indicate that the:

Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) appropriations or any other appropriations from the budget should not be used for the financing of lethal bullfighting activities.

Above: Flag of the European Union

Most Portuguese bullfights are held in two phases:

The spectacle of the cavaleiro, and the pega.

In the cavaleiro, a horseman on a Portuguese Lusitano horse (specially trained for the fights) fights the bull from horseback.

The purpose of this fight is to stab three or four bandeiras (small javelins) into the back of the bull.

In the second stage, called the pega (“holding“), the forcados, a group of eight men, challenge the bull directly without any protection or weapon of defense.

The frontman provokes the bull into a charge to perform a pega de cara or pega de caras (face grab).

The frontman secures the animal’s head and is quickly aided by his fellows who surround and secure the animal until he is subdued. 

Forcados are dressed in a traditional costume of damask or velvet, with long knitted hats as worn by the campinos (bull headers) from Ribatejo.

The bull is not killed in the ring and, at the end of the corrida, leading oxen are let into the arena, and two campinos on foot herd the bull among them back to its pen.

The bull is usually killed out of sight of the audience by a professional butcher.

Some bulls, after an exceptional performance, are healed, released to pasture and used for breeding.

In the Portuguese Azores islands, there is a form of bullfighting called tourada à corda, in which a bull is led on a rope along a street, while players taunt and dodge the bull, who is not killed during or after the fight, but returned to pasture and used in later events.

Above: Flag of the Azores

Queen Maria II of Portugal prohibited bullfighting in 1836 with the argument that it was unbefitting for a civilised nation.

The ban was lifted in 1921, but in 1928 a law was passed that forbade the killing of the bull during a fight.

Above: Maria II of Portugal (1819 – 1853)

In practice, bulls still frequently die after a fight from their injuries or by being slaughtered by a butcher.

In 2001, matador Pedrito de Portugal controversially killed a bull at the end of a fight after spectators encouraged him to do so by chanting:

Kill the bull! Kill the bull!

The crowds gave Pedrito a standing ovation, hoisted him on their shoulders and paraded him through the streets.

Hours later the police arrested him and charged him with a fine, but they released him after crowds of angry fans surrounded the police station.

A long court case ensued, finally resulting in Pedrito’s conviction in 2007 with a fine of €100,000.

Above: Pedrito de Portugal

In 2002, the Portuguese government gave Barrancos, a village near the Spanish border where bullfighting fans stubbornly persisted in encouraging the killing of bulls during fights, a dispensation from the 1928 ban.

Above: Barrancos, Portugal

Various attempts have been made to ban bullfighting in Portugal, both nationally (in 2012 and 2018) and locally, but so far unsuccessfully.

In July 2018, animalist party PAN (Pessoas-Animais-Natureza) (People – Animals – Nature) presented a proposal at the Portuguese Parliament to abolish all types of bullfighting in the country.

Left-wing party Left Bloc voted in favour of the proposal, but criticized its lack of solutions to the foreseen consequences of the abolition.

The proposal was however categorically rejected by all other parties, that cited freedom of choice and respect for tradition as arguments against it.

Above: Bloco de Esquerda / Left Bloc ‘s logo

Since the 19th century, Spanish-style corridas have been increasingly popular in southern France where they enjoy legal protection in areas where there is an uninterrupted tradition of such bull fights, particularly during holidays such as Whitsun or Easter.

Among France’s most important venues for bullfighting are the ancient Roman arenas of Nîmes and Arles, although there are bull rings across the South from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic coasts.

Bullfights of this kind follow the Spanish tradition and even Spanish words are used for all bullfighting related terms.

Minor cosmetic differences exist such as music.

This is not to be confused with the bloodless bullfights referred to below which are indigenous to France.

A more indigenous genre of bullfighting is widely common in the Provence and Languedoc areas, and is known alternately as “course libre” or “course camarguaise“.

This is a bloodless spectacle (for the bulls) in which the objective is to snatch a rosette from the head of a young bull.

The participants, or raseteurs, begin training in their early teens against young bulls from the Camarque region of Provence before graduating to regular contests held principally in Arles and Nîmes but also in other Provençal and Languedoc towns and villages.

Before the course, an abrivado — a “running” of the bulls in the streets — takes place, in which young men compete to outrun the charging bulls.

The course itself takes place in a small (often portable) arena erected in a town square.

For a period of about 15–20 minutes, the raseteurs compete to snatch rosettes (cocarde) tied between the bulls’ horns.

They do not take the rosette with their bare hands, but with a claw-shaped metal instrument called a raset or crochet (hook) in their hands, hence their name.

Afterward, the bulls are herded back to their pen by gardians (Camarguais cowboys) in a bandido, amidst a great deal of ceremony.

The stars of these spectacles are the bulls.

Another type of French ‘bullfighting‘ is the “course landaise“, in which cows are used instead of bulls.

This is a competition between teams named cuadrillas, which belong to certain breeding estates.

A cuadrilla is made up of a teneur de corde, an entraîneur, a sauteur, and six écarteurs.

The cows are brought to the arena in crates and then taken out in order.

The teneur de corde controls the dangling rope attached to the cow’s horns and the entraîneur positions the cow to face and attack the player.

The écarteurs will try, at the last possible moment, to dodge around the cow and the sauteur will leap over it.

Each team aims to complete a set of at least one hundred dodges and eight leaps.

This is the main scheme of the “classic” form, the course landaise formelle.

However, different rules may be applied in some competitions.

For example, competitions for Coupe Jeannot Lafittau are arranged with cows without ropes.

At one point, it resulted in so many fatalities that the French government tried to ban it but had to back down in the face of local opposition.

The bulls themselves are generally fairly small, much less imposing than the adult bulls employed in the corrida.

Nonetheless, the bulls remain dangerous due to their mobility and vertically formed horns.

Participants and spectators share the risk.

It is not unknown for angry bulls to smash their way through barriers and charge the surrounding crowd of spectators.

The course landaise is not seen as a dangerous sport by many, but écarteur Jean-Pierre Rachou died in 2003 when a bull’s horn tore his femoral artery.

Above: Jean-Pierre Rachou (1958 – 2001)

A February 2018 study commissioned by the 30 millions d’amis foundation and conducted by the Institut français d’opinion publique (IFOP) found that 74% of the French wanted to prohibit bullfighting in France, with 26% opposed.

In September 2007, these percentages were still 50-50, with those favouring a ban growing to 66% in August 2010 and those opposed shrinking to 34%.

The survey found a correlation between age and opinion.

Younger survey participants were more likely to support a ban.

In 1951, bullfighting in France was legalised by §7 of Article 521-1 of the French Penal Code in areas where there was an ‘unbroken local tradition‘.

This exemption applies to Nîmes, Arles, Alès, Bayonne, Carcassonne and Fréjus, amongst others.

In 2011, the French Ministry of Culture added corrida to the list of ‘intangible heritage‘ of France, but after much controversy silently removed it from its website again.

Animal rights activists launched a lawsuit to make sure it was completely removed from the heritage list and thus not given extra legal protection.

The Administrative Appeals Court of Paris ruled in their favour in June 2015. 

In a separate case, the Constitutional Council ruled on 21 September 2012 that bullfighting did not violate the French Constitution.

Bullfighting had some popularity in the Philippines during Spanish rule (1565 – 1898), though foreign commentators derided the quality of local bulls and toreros.

Above: Flag of the Philippines

Bullfighting was noted in the Philippines as early as 1619, when it was among the festivities in celebration of Pope Urban III’s (r. 1185 – 1187) authorisation of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.

Above: Depiction of Urban II

Following the Spanish–American War, the Americans suppressed the custom in the Philippines under the tenure of Governor General Leonard Wood (1860 – 1927).

Above: Leonard Wood (1860 – 1927)

It was replaced with a now-popular Filipino sport, basketball.

Chile banned bullfighting shortly after gaining independence in 1818, but the Chilean rodeo (which involves horse riders in an oval arena blocking a female cow against the wall without killing it) is still legal and has even been declared a national sport.

Above: Flag of Chile

Bullfighting was introduced in Argentina by Spain, but after Argentina’s independence, the event drastically diminished in popularity and was abolished in 1899 under Law #2786.

Above: Flag of Argentina

Bullfighting was also introduced in Uruguay in 1776 by Spain and abolished by Uruguayan law in February 1912.

Thus the Plaza de toros Real de San Carlos, built in 1910, only operated for two years.

Above: Flag of Uruguay

Ecuador staged bullfights to the death for over three centuries as a Spanish colony.

On 12 December 2010, Ecuador’s President Rafael Correa announced that in an upcoming referendum, the country would be asked whether to ban bullfighting.

In the referendum, held in May 2011, Ecuadorians agreed on banning the final killing of the bull that happens in a corrida.

This means the bull is no longer killed before the public, and is instead taken back inside the barn to be killed at the end of the event.

The other parts of the corrida are still performed the same way as before in the cities that celebrate it.

This part of the referendum is applied on a regional level, meaning that in regions where the population voted against the ban, which are the same regions where bullfighting is celebrated the most, killing the animal publicly in the bullfighting plaza is still performed.

The main bullfighting celebration of the country, the Fiesta Brava in Quito was still allowed to take place in December 2011 after the referendum under these new rules.

Above: Flag of Ecuador

In Bolivia, bulls are not killed nor injured with any sticks.

The goal of Bolivian toreros is to provoke the bull with taunts without getting harmed themselves.

Above: Flag of Bolivia

Bullfighting with killing bulls in the ring is legal in Colombia. 

In 2013, Gustavo Petro, then mayor of the Colombian capital city of Bogotá, had de facto prohibited bullfighting by refusing to lease out bullrings to bullfighting organisers.

But the Constitutional Court of Colombia ruled that this violated the right to expression of the bullfighters, and ordered the bullrings to be reopened.

The first bullfight in Bogotá in four years happened on 22 January 2017 amid clashes between anti-taurino protesters and police.

Above: Flag of Colombia

In El Seibo Province of the Dominican Republic bullfights are not about killing or harming the animal, but taunting and evading it until it is tired.

Above: Flag of the Dominican Republic

Bullfighting was present in Cuba during its colonial period (1514 – 1898), but was abolished by the US military under the pressure of civic associations in 1899, right after the Spanish-American War of 1898.

The prohibition was maintained after Cuba gained independence in 1902.

Above: Flag of Cuba

Law 308 on the Protection of Animals was approved by the National Assembly of Panama on 15 March 2012.

Article 7 of the law states:

‘Dog fights, animal races, bullfights – whether of the Spanish or Portuguese style – the breeding, entry, permanence and operation in the national territory of all kinds of circus or circus show that uses trained animals of any species, are prohibited.’

Horse racing and cockfighting were exempt from the ban.

Above: Flag of Panama

Nicaragua prohibited bullfighting under a new Animal Welfare Law in December 2010, with 74 votes in favour and 5 votes against in Parliament.

Above: Flag of Nicaragua

In Honduras, under Article 11 of ‘Decree #115-2015 ─ Animal Protection and Welfare Act‘ that went into effect in 2016, dog and cat fights and duck races are prohibited, while ‘bullfighting shows and cockfights are part of the National Folklore and as such allowed‘.

However, ‘in bullfighting shows, the use of spears, swords, fire or other objects that cause pain to the animal is prohibited.’

Above: Flag of Honduras

In Costa Rica the law prohibits the killing of bulls and other animals in public and private shows.

However, there are still bullfights, called “Toros a la Tica“, that are televised from Palmares and Zapote at the end and beginning of the year.

Volunteer amateur bullfighters (improvisados) confront a bull in a ring and try to provoke him into charging and then run away.

In a December 2016 survey, 46.4% of respondents wanted to outlaw bullfights while 50.1% thought they should continue.

The bullfights do not include spears or any other device to harm the bull and resemble the running of the bulls in Pamplona, the difference being that the Costa Rican event takes place in an arena rather than in the streets, as in Pamplona.

Above: Flag of Costa Rica

Bullfighting was also banned for a period in Mexico in 1890.

Consequently some Spanish bullfighters moved to the United States to transfer their skills to the American rodeos.

Bullfighting has been banned in four Mexican states: 

  • Sonora in 2013
  • Guerrero in 2014
  • Coahuila in 2015
  • Quintana Roo in 2019.

It was banned “indefinitely” in Mexico City in 2022.

Above: Flag of Mexico

In Canada, Portuguese-style bullfighting was introduced in 1989 by Portuguese immigrants in the town of Listowel in southern Ontario.

Despite objections and concerns from local authorities and a humane society, the practice was allowed as the bulls were not killed or injured in this version.

In the nearby city of Brampton, Portuguese immigrants from the Azores practice “tourada a corda” (bullfight by rope).

Above: Flag of Canada

Jallikattu is a traditional spectacle in Tamil Nadu, India, as a part of Pongul (harvest festival) celebrations on Mattu Pongul Day (3rd day of the four day festival).

A breed of bos indicus (humped) bulls, called “Jellicut” are used.

During a jallikattu, a bull is released into a group of people.

Participants attempt to grab the bull’s hump and hold onto it for a determined distance, length of time, or with the goal of taking a pack of money tied to the bull’s horns.

The goal of the activity is more similar to bull riding (staying on a bull).

The practice was banned in 2014 by India’s Supreme Court over concerns that bulls are sometimes mistreated prior to jallikattu events.

Animal welfare investigations into the practice revealed that some bulls are poked with sticks and scythes, some have their tails twisted, some are force-fed alcohol to disorient them, and in some cases chili powder and other irritants are applied to bulls’ eyes and genitals to agitate the animals. 

The 2014 ban was suspended and reinstated several times over the years.

In January 2017, the Supreme Court upheld their previous ban and various protests arose in response.

Due to these protests, on 21 January 2017, the Governor of Tamil Nadu issued a new ordinance that authorized the continuation of jallikattu events.

On 23 January 2017 the Tamil Nadu legislature passed a bi-partisan bill, with the accession of the Prime Minister, exempting jallikattu from the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act (1960).

As of January 2017, jallikattu is legal in Tamil Nadu, but another organization may challenge the mechanism by which it was legalized, as the Animal Welfare Board of India claims that the Tamil Nadu Legislative Assembly does not have the power to override Indian federal law, meaning that the state law could possibly once again be nullified and jallikattu banned.

Above: Emblem of Tamil Nadu

American freestyle bullfighting is a style of bullfighting developed in American rodeo.

The style was developed by the rodeo clowns who protect bull riders from being trampled or gored by a loose bull.

Freestyle bullfighting is a 70-second competition in which the bullfighter (rodeo clown) avoids the bull by means of dodging, jumping, and use of a barrel.

The bullfighter is then scored points based on his performance.

In Central Valley, California, the historically Portuguese community has developed a form of bullfight in which the bull is taunted by a matador, but the lances are tipped with fabric hook and loop (e.g. velcro) and they are aimed at hook-and-loop covered pads secured to the bull’s shoulder.

Fights occur from May through October around traditional Portuguese holidays.

While California outlawed bullfighting in 1957, this type of bloodless bullfighting is still allowed if carried out during religious festivals or celebrations.

Bullfighting was outlawed in California in 1957, but the law was amended in response to protests from the Portuguese community in Gustine.

Lawmakers determined that a form of “bloodless” bullfighting would be allowed to continue, in affiliation with certain Christian holidays.

Though the bull is not killed as with traditional bullfighting, it is still intentionally irritated and provoked and its horns are shaved down to prevent injury to people and other animals present in the ring, but serious injuries still can and do occur and spectators are also at risk.

Above: Flag of California

The Humane Society of the United States has expressed opposition to bullfighting in all its forms since at least 1981.

Puerto Rico banned bullfighting and the breeding of bulls for fights by Law #176 of 25 July 1998.

Above: Flag of Puerto Rico

In Tanzania, bullfighting was introduced by the Portuguese to Zanzibar and to Pemba Island, where it is known as mchezo wa ngombe.

Similar to the Portuguese Azorean tourada a corda, the bull is restrained by a rope, and generally neither bull nor player is harmed, and the bull is not killed at the end of the fight.

Above: Flag of Tanzania

Many supporters of bullfighting regard it as a deeply ingrained, integral part of their national cultures:

In Spain, bullfighting is nicknamed la fiesta nacional (“national fiesta“).

The aesthetic of bullfighting is based on the interaction of the man and the bull.

Rather than a competitive sport, the bullfight is more of a ritual of ancient origin, which is judged by aficionados based on artistic impression and command.

American author Ernest Hemingway wrote of it in his 1932 non-fiction book Death in the Afternoon:

Bullfighting is the only art in which the artist is in danger of death and in which the degree of brilliance in the performance is left to the fighter’s honour.”

Above: Ernest Hemingway

Bullfighting is seen by some as a symbol of Spanish national culture.

The bullfight is regarded as a demonstration of style, technique, and courage by its participants, and as a demonstration of cruelty and cowardice by its critics.

While there is usually no doubt about the outcome, the bull is not viewed by bullfighting supporters as a sacrificial victim — it is instead seen by the audience as a worthy adversary, deserving of respect in its own right.

Those who oppose bullfighting maintain that the practice is a sadistic tradition of torturing and killing a bull amidst pomp and pageantry.

Supporters of bullfights, called “aficionados“, claim to respect the bulls, that the bulls live better than other cattle, and that bullfighting is a grand tradition, a form of art important to their culture.

In Spain and Latin America, opposition to bullfighting is referred to as the antitaurino movement.

In a 2012 poll, 70% of Mexican respondents wanted bullfighting to be prohibited.

Above: A dying bull in a bullfight

Bullfighting is thought to have been practised since prehistoric times throughout the entire Mediterranean coast, but it survives only in Iberia and in part of France. 

During the Arab rule of Iberia (711 – 1492), the ruling class tried to ban bullfighting, considering it a pagan celebration and heresy.

Above: Umayyad Hispania at its greatest extent in 719

In the 16th century, Pope Pius V banned bullfighting for its ties to paganism and for the danger that it posed to the participants.

Anyone who would sponsor, watch or participate in a bullfight was to be excommunicated by the Church.

Above: Pius V (né Antonio Ghislieri) (1504 – 1572)

Spanish and Portuguese bullfighters kept the tradition alive covertly.

Pius’s successor Pope Gregory XIII relaxed the Church’s position.

However, Pope Gregory advised bullfighters to not use the sport as means of honoring Jesus Christ or the saints, as was typical in Spain and Portugal.

Above: Gregory XIII ( Ugo Boncompagni)(1502 – 1585)

Bullfighting has been intertwined with religion and religious folklore in Spain at a popular level, particularly in the areas in which it has been most popular.

Bullfighting events are celebrated during festivities celebrating local patron saints, along with other activities, games and sports.

The bullfighting world is also inextricably linked to iconography related to religious devotion in Spain, with bullfighters seeking the protection of Mary and often becoming members of religious brotherhoods.

Above: Spanish bullfighters enter a chapel before a bullfight

Bullfighting is now banned in many countries.

People taking part in such activity would be liable for terms of imprisonment for animal cruelty.

Bloodless” variations, though, are often permitted and have attracted a following in California, Texas and France.

While it is not very popular in Texas, bloodless forms of bullfighting occur at rodeos in small Texas towns.

Above: Flag of Texas

In southern France, however, the traditional form of the corrida still exists and it is protected by French law.

However, in June 2015 the Paris Court of Appeals removed bullfighting / “la corrida” from France’s cultural heritage list.

Above: Flag of France

Several cities around the world (especially in Catalonia) have symbolically declared themselves to be Anti-Bullfighting Cities, including Barcelona in 2006.

Above: World laws on bullfighting – Dark blue: Nationwide ban on bullfighting / Light blue:  Nationwide ban on bullfighting, but some designated local traditions exempted / Purple:  Some subnational bans on bullfighting / Yellow: Bullfighting without killing bulls in the ring legal (‘bloodless‘)  / Red: Bullfighting with killing bulls in the ring legal (Spanish style) / Grey:  No data

RSPCA (Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) assistant director for public affairs David Bowles said:

The RSPCA is strongly opposed to bullfighting. It is an inhumane and outdated practice that continues to lose support, including from those living in the countries where this takes place such as Spain, Portugal and France.”

The bullfighting guide The Bulletpoint Bullfight warns that bullfighting is “not for the squeamish“, advising spectators to “be prepared for blood“.

The guide details prolonged and profuse bleeding caused by horse-mounted lancers, the charging by the bull of a blindfolded, armored horse who is “sometimes doped up, and unaware of the proximity of the bull“, the placing of barbed darts by banderilleros and the matador’s fatal sword thrust.

The guide stresses that these procedures are a normal part of bullfighting and that death is rarely instantaneous.

The guide further warns those attending bullfights to:

Be prepared to witness various failed attempts at killing the animal before it lies down.

Alexander Fiske – Harrison, who trained as a bullfighter to research for his book on the topic (and trained in biological sciences and moral philosophy before that) has pointed out that the bull lives three times longer than do cattle reared exclusively for meat, and lives wild during that period in meadows and forests which are funded by the premium the bullfight’s box office adds on to the price of their meat, should be taken into account when weighing concerns about both animal welfare and the environment.

He also speculated that the adrenalizing nature of the 30-minute spectacle may reduce the bull’s suffering even below that of the stress and anxiety of queueing in the abattoir.

Above: Alexander Fiske – Harrison

However, zoologist and animal rights activist Jordi Casamitjana argues that the bulls do experience a high degree of suffering:

All aspects of any bullfight, from the transport to the death, are in themselves causes of suffering.”

Above: Jordi Casamitjana

I find myself thinking of Walt Disney’s 1938 stand-alone animated short film Ferdinand the Bull:

The scene starts with many bulls, romping together and butting their heads.

However, Ferdinand is different.

All he wants to do all day is go under a shady cork tree and smell the flowers.

One day, his mother notices that he is not playing with the other bulls and asks him why.

He responds:

All I want to do is to sit and smell the flowers!

His mother is very understanding.

Ferdinand grows over the years, eventually getting to be the largest and strongest of the group.

The other bulls grow up wanting to accomplish one goal in life:

To be in the bullfights in Madrid, Spain.

But not Ferdinand.

One day, five strange-looking men show up to see the bulls.

When the bulls notice them, they fight as rough as possible, hoping to get picked.

Ferdinand doesn’t engage and continues to smell the flowers.

When he goes to sit, he doesn’t realize there is a bumblebee right underneath him.

The pain of the bee’s sting makes him go on a crazy rampage, knock the other bulls out, and eventually tear down a tree.

The five men cheer as they take Ferdinand to Madrid.

There is a lot of excitement when the day of the bullfight comes.

On posters, they call him Ferdinand the Fierce.

The event starts and out into the ring comes banderilleros, picadors and the matador who is being cheered on.

As the matador bows, a woman in the audience throws him a bouquet of flowers which land in his hand.

Finally, the moment comes where Ferdinand comes out and he wonders what is he doing there.

The banderilleros and picadors are afraid and hide, but the matador gets scared stiff because Ferdinand is so big and strong.

Ferdinand looks and sees the bouquet of flowers, walking over and scaring the matador away, but just starts smelling them.

The matador becomes very angry at Ferdinand for not charging at him.

But Ferdinand is not interested in fighting.

He is only interested in smelling the beautiful flowers.

Eventually, he is led out of the arena and taken back home where he continues to sit under the cork tree and smell the flowers.

Rodeo, a less violent cousin of bullfighting, is a competitive equestrian sport that arose out of the working practices of cattle herding in Spain and Mexico, expanding throughout the Americas and to other nations.

Originally based on the skills required of the working yaqueros and later, cowboys, in what today is the western United States, western Canada, and northern Mexico.

Today, it is a sporting event that involves horses and other livestock, designed to test the skill and speed of the cowboys and cowgirls.

The largest state-of-the-art rodeos are professional, commercial athletic contests held in climate-controlled stadiums, with broadcasting by various television networks.

Above: Bucking horse, Calgary Stampede, Alberta, Canada, 2002

Outside of the rodeo world itself, there is disagreement about exactly what rodeo is.

Professional competitors, for example, view rodeo as a sport and call themselves professional athletes while also using the title of cowboy.

Fans view rodeo as a spectator sport with animals, having aspects of pageantry and theater unlike other professional sport.

Non-westerners view the spectacle as a quaint but exciting remnant of the Wild West.

Animal rights activists view rodeo as a cruel Roman circus spectacle or an Americanized bullfight.

Above: Barrel racing, Calgary Stampede, 2007

Anthropologists studying the sport of rodeo and the culture surrounding it have commented that it is “a blend of both performance and contest“, and that rodeo is far more expressive in blending both these aspects than attempting to stand alone on one or the other.

Rodeo’s performance level permits pageantry and ritual which serve to “revitalize the spirit of the Old West” while its contest level poses a man-animal opposition that articulates the transformation of nature and “dramatizes and perpetuates the conflict between the wild and the tame.”

On its deepest level, rodeo is essentially a ritual addressing itself to the dilemma of man’s place in nature.”

Above: Team roping – here, the steer has been roped by the header, and the heeler is now attempting a throw, Brawley Round-up

Rodeo is a popular topic in country-western music, such as the 1991 Garth Brooks hit single “Rodeo“.

Rodeo has also been featured in numerous movies, television programs and in literature. 

Above: Garth Brooks

Rodeo is a ballet score written by Aaron Copland in 1942.

Above: Aaron Copland (1900 – 1990)

Country singer Chris Ledoux competed in bareback riding and wrote many of his songs based on his experiences.

Above: Chris LeDoux (1948 – 2005)

Rodeo has also been featured in a significant number of films, and some focus specifically on the sport, including: 

  • 8 Seconds

  • Cowboy Up

  • The Longest Ride

  • The Rider

  • The Cowboy Way

American-style professional rodeos generally comprise the following events: 

  • tie-down roping
  • team roping
  • steer wrestling
  • saddle bronc riding  
  • bareback bronc riding  
  • bull riding
  • barrel racing

The events are divided into two basic categories:

  • the rough stock events
  • the timed events.

Depending on sanctioning organization and region, other events may also be a part of some rodeos, such as: 

  • breakaway roping
  • goat tying
  • pole bending.

Above: Saddle bronc riding, Cody Rodeo, Wyoming

According to Encyclopedia Britannica, the “world’s first public cowboy contest” was held on 4 July 1883, in Pecos, Texas, between cattle driver Trav Windham and roper Morg Livingston.

Above: Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show

American rodeo, particularly popular today within the Canadian province of Alberta and throughout the western United States, is the official state sport of Wyoming, South Dakota, and Texas.

The iconic silhouette image of a “bucking horse and rider” is a federal and state-registered trademark of the State of Wyoming.

Above: Flag of Wyoming

The Legislative Assembly of Alberta has considered making American rodeo the official sport of that province.

However, enabling legislation has yet to be passed.

Above: Flag of Alberta

The first rodeo in Canada was held in 1902 in Raymond, Alberta, when Raymond Knight funded and promoted a rodeo contest for bronc riders and steer ropers called the Raymond Stampede.

Knight also coined the rodeo term “stampede” and built rodeo’s first known shotgun-style bucking chute.

In 1903, Knight built Canada’s first rodeo arena and grandstand and became the first rodeo producer and rodeo stock contractor.

Above: Ray Knight (1872 – 1947)

In 1912, Guy Weadick and several investors put up $100,000 to create what today is the Calgary Stampede.

The Stampede also incorporated mythical and historical elements, including native Canadians in full regalia, chuckwagon races, the Mounted Police, and marching bands.

From its beginning, the event has been held the 2nd week in July.

Since 1938, attendees were urged to dress for the occasion in western hats to add to the event’s flavour.

By 2003, it was estimated that 65 professional rodeos involving 700 members of the Canadian Professional Rodeo Association (CPRA) took place in Western Canada, along with professionals from the United States.

Many Canadian contestants were part-timers who did not earn a significant living from rodeo.

Canadians made several significant contributions to the sport of rodeo.

In 1916, at the Bascom Ranch in Welling, Alberta, John W. Bascom and his sons Raymond, Mel, and Earl designed and built rodeo’s first side-delivery bucking chute for the ranch rodeos they were producing.

In 1919, Earl and John made rodeo’s first reverse-opening side-delivery bucking chute at the Bascom Ranch in Lethbridge, Alberta.

This Bascom-style bucking chute is now rodeo’s standard design. 

Earl Bascom also continued his innovative contributions to the sport of rodeo by designing and making rodeo’s first hornless bronc saddle in 1922, rodeo’s first one-hand bareback rigging in 1924, and the first high-cut rodeo chaps in 1928.

Earl and his brother Weldon also produced rodeo’s first night rodeo held outdoors under electric lights in 1935.

Above: Earl Bascom (1906 – 1995)

The Canadian Pro Rodeo Hall of Fame is located in Ponoka, Alberta.

In the US, professional rodeos are governed and sanctioned by the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association (PRCA) and the Women’s Professional Rodeo Association (WPRA), while other associations govern assorted children’s, high school, collegiate, and other amateur or semi-professional rodeos.

Associations also exist for Native Americans and other minority groups.

The traditional season for competitive rodeo runs from spring through fall, while the modern professional rodeo circuit runs longer, and concludes with the PRCA National Finals Rodeo (NFR) in Las Vegas, Nevada, currently held every December.

Above: Steer wrestling, National Finals Rodeo, Las Vegas, Nevada, 2004

Rodeo has provoked opposition from animal rights and some animal welfare advocates, who argue that various competitions constitute animal cruelty.

The American rodeo industry has made progress in improving the welfare of rodeo animals, with specific requirements for veterinary care and other regulations that protect rodeo animals.

However, some local and state governments in North America have banned or restricted rodeos, certain rodeo events, or types of equipment.

Internationally, rodeo is banned in the United Kingdom and the Netherlands, with other European nations placing restrictions on certain practices.

Protests were first raised regarding rodeo animal cruelty in the 1870s.

Beginning in the 1930s, some states enacted laws curtailing rodeo activities and other events involving animals.

In the 1950s, the then Rodeo Cowboys Association (RCA, later the PRCA) worked with the American Humane Association (AHA) to establish regulations protecting the welfare of rodeo animals that were acceptable to both organizations.

The PRCA realized that public education regarding rodeo and the welfare of animals was needed to keep the sport alive.

Over the years, conditions for animals in rodeo and many other sporting events improved.

Today, the PRCA and other rodeo sanctioning organizations have stringent regulations to ensure rodeo animals’ welfare.

For example, these rules require, among other things, provisions for injured animals, a veterinarian’s presence at all rodeos (a similar requirement exists for other equine events), padded flank straps, horn protection for steers, and spurs with dulled, free-spinning rowels.

Rodeo competitors in general value and provide excellent care to the animals with which they work.

Animals must also be protected with fleece-lined flank straps for bucking stock and horn wraps for roping steers.

Laws governing rodeo vary widely.

In the American west, some states incorporate the regulations of the PRCA into their statutes as a standard by which to evaluate if animal cruelty has occurred.

On the other hand, some events and practices are restricted or banned in other states, including California, Rhode Island, and Ohio. 

St. Petersburg, Florida is the only locality in the United States with a complete ban on rodeo. 

Above: St. Petersburg, Florida

Canadian humane societies are careful in criticizing Canadian rodeo as the event has become so indigenous to Western Canada that criticism may jeopardize support for the organization’s other humane goals.

The Calgary Humane Society itself is wary of criticizing the famous Calgary Stampede.

As aforementioned, internationally rodeo itself is banned in the United Kingdom and the Netherlands.

Other European nations have placed restrictions on certain practices.

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

Above: Flag of the Netherlands

However, a number of humane and animal rights organizations have policy statements that oppose many rodeo practices and often the events themselves.

Some also claim that regulations vary from vague to ineffective and are frequently violated. 

Other groups assert that any regulation still allows rodeo animals to be subjected to gratuitous harm for the sake of entertainment, and therefore rodeos should be banned altogether.

In response to these concerns, a number of cities and states, mostly in the eastern half of the United States, have passed ordinances and laws governing rodeo. 

Above: Flag of the United States of America

Pittsburgh, for example, specifically prohibits electric prods or shocking devices, flank or bucking straps, wire tie-downs, and sharpened or fixed spurs or rowels.

Pittsburgh also requires humane officers be provided access to any and all areas where animals may go — specifically pens, chutes, and injury pens.

Above: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

The state of Rhode Island has banned tie-down roping and certain other practices.

Other locales have similar ordinances and laws.

Above: Flag of Rhode Island

There are three basic areas of concern to various groups.

The first set of concerns surround relatively common rodeo practices, such as the use of bucking straps, also known as flank straps, the use of metal or electric cattle prods, and tail-twisting.

The second set of concerns surround non-traditional rodeo events that operate outside the rules of sanctioning organizations.

These are usually amateur events such as: 

  • mutton busting
  • calf dressing 
  • wild cow milking
  • calf riding
  • chuck wagon races
  • other events designed primarily for publicity, half-time entertainment or crowd participation.

Finally, some groups consider some or all rodeo events themselves to be cruel.

Above: Mutton busting, Denver Rodeo, Colorado, 2007

Animal rights groups, such as PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals), SHARK (Showing Animals Respect and Kindness) and the Humane Society of the United States, generally take a position of opposition to all rodeos and rodeo events.

A more general position is taken by the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals), only opposing rodeo events that “involve cruel, painful, stressful and potentially harmful treatment of livestock, not only in performance but also in handling, transport and prodding to perform“.

The group singles out children’s rodeo events, such as goat tying, calf riding and sheep riding (“mutton busting”), “which do not promote humane care and respect for animals“.

The AHA (American Humane Association) does not appear to oppose rodeos per se, though they have a general position on events and contests involving animals, stating that “when animals are involved in entertainment, they must be treated humanely at all times“.

Above: Goat tying

Why must animals be entertaining?

Why can’t we simply let them live their lives being themselves?

Why must we insist that nature serve us?

 

The AHA also has strict requirements for the treatment of animals used for rodeo scenes in movies, starting with the rules of the PRCA and adding additional requirements consistent with the association’s other policies.

Unique among animal protection groups, the ASPCA specifically notes that practice sessions are often the location of more severe abuses than competitions.

However, many state animal cruelty laws provide specific exemptions for “training practices“.

The AHA is the only organization addressing the legislative issue, advocating the strengthening of animal cruelty laws in general, with no exceptions for “training practices“.

I am not disputing that man’s courage and skill and tradition as shown in bullfights and rodeos should be respected.

But what of the lives of the animals involved?

What of their dignity, their feelings, their well-being?

Man was appointed by God – if religious writ is to be believed – to have dominion over the beasts.

Everything a man does to an animal is either a lawful exercise or a sacrilegious abuse of an authority by divine right.

C.S. Lewis

Above: Clive Staples Lewis (1898 – 1963)

Humans have “dominion” over animals, but that “dominion” (radah in Hebrew) does not mean despotism.

Rather we are set over creation to care for what God has made and to treasure God’s own treasures.

Andrew Linzey

Above: Andrew Linzey

The more helpless the creature, the more that it is entitled to the protection of man.

Mahatma Gandhi

Above: Mahatma Gandhi ( Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi) (1869 – 1948)

I find myself thinking of three interconnected memories:

In a 12 May 1984 Peanuts comic strip, the dog Snoopy is seen strolling towards Charlie Brown and Sally.

Snoopy gives them both warm and sincere hugs.

Afterwards, Charlie Brown explains their dog’s actions to his puzzled sister:

You can always tell when he’s been listening to Leo Buscaglia tapes.”

Felice Leonardo Buscaglia (1924 – 1998), also known as “Dr. Love“, was an American author, motivational speaker, and a professor in the Department of Special Education at the University of Southern California.

Above: Leo Buscaglia

Buscaglia was born in Los Angeles into a family of Italian immigrants. 

He spent his early childhood in Aosta, Italy, before going back to the US for education.

He was a graduate of Theodore Roosevelt High School.

Buscaglia served in the US Navy during World War II.

He did not see combat, but he saw its aftermath in his duties in the dental section of the military hospital, helping to reconstruct shattered faces. 

Using GI Bill benefits, he entered the University of Southern California, where he earned three degrees (BA 1950, MA 1954, PhD 1963) before eventually joining the faculty.

While teaching at USC, Buscaglia was moved by a student’s suicide to contemplate human disconnectedness and the meaning of life, and began a noncredit class he called Love 1A

This became the basis for his first book, titled simply Love.

He was the first to state and promote the concept of humanity’s need for hugs: 5 to survive, 8 to maintain, and 12 to thrive.

His dynamic speaking style was discovered by PBS (Public Broadcasting Service), and his televised lectures earned great popularity in the 1980s.

At one point his talks, always shown during fundraising periods, were the top earners of all PBS programs.

This national exposure, coupled with the heartfelt storytelling style of his books, helped make all his titles national bestsellers.

Five were once on the New York Times bestsellers list simultaneously.

Buscaglia wrote a dozen books.

I have read only two: Love and The Way of the Bull.

The second aforementioned book reveals the truth of self Leo Buscaglia discovered on two trips to Asia, by travelling the “way of the bull“, as well as describing the people and physical locales of Southeast Asia prior to the Vietnam War.

The meaning of the title originated in the 12th century Zen book, 10 Bulls, by the Zen master Kaku-an Shi-en.

In Kaku-an’s book, the bull represents life, energy, truth and action.

The way” concerns the possible step one man might take to gain insight, find oneself and discover one’s true nature.

Buscaglia reminds us, however, that each person must find that path individually in order for it to have true meaning.

Consider the Ten Bulls:

  1. In search of the bull:

In the pasture of the world, I endlessly push aside the tall grasses in search of the Ox.
Following unnamed rivers, lost upon the interpenetrating paths of distant mountains, my strength failing and my vitality exhausted, I cannot find the Ox.

2. Discovery of the footprints

Along the riverbank under the trees, I discover footprints.
Even under the fragrant grass, I see his prints.
Deep in remote mountains they are found.
These traces can no more be hidden than one’s nose, looking heavenward.

3. Perceiving the bull

I hear the song of the nightingale.
The sun is warm, the wind is mild, willows are green along the shore –
Here no Ox can hide!
What artist can draw that massive head, those majestic horns?

4. Seizing the bull

I seize him with a terrific struggle.
His great will and power are inexhaustible.
He charges to the high plateau far above the cloud-mists,
Or in an impenetrable ravine he stands.

5. Taming the bull

The whip and rope are necessary,
Else he might stray off down some dusty road.
Being well-trained, he becomes naturally gentle.
Then, unfettered, he obeys his master.

6. Riding the bull home

Mounting the Ox, slowly I return homeward.
The voice of my flute intones through the evening.
Measuring with hand-beats the pulsating harmony, I direct the endless rhythm.
Whoever hears this melody will join me.

7. The bull transcended

Astride the Ox, I reach home.
I am serene.

The Ox too can rest.
The dawn has come.

In blissful repose, within my thatched dwelling, I have abandoned the whip and ropes.

8. Both bull and self transcended

Whip, rope, person, and Ox – all merge in No Thing.
This heaven is so vast, no message can stain it.
How may a snowflake exist in a raging fire?
Here are the footprints of the Ancestors.

9. Reaching the source

Too many steps have been taken, returning to the root and the source.
Better to have been blind and deaf from the beginning!
Dwelling in one’s true abode, unconcerned with and without –
The river flows tranquilly on and the flowers are red.

10. Return to society

Barefooted and naked of breast, I mingle with the people of the world.
My clothes are ragged and dust-laden, and I am ever blissful.
I use no magic to extend my life.
Now, before me, the dead trees become alive.

Without love – including love of one’s self – life is without meaning.

Each person must find that path individually in order for it to have true meaning.

In getting lost, in relinquishing the need to control, meaning may be found.

There is much we can learn from nature if we would cease trying to control it.

We fear nature, for we have given nature cause to fear us.

If we would approach all God’s creatures great and small in a spirit of compassion, aware that they too feel, that their lives possess meaning, that they too are deserving of respect and dignity, that they too must find their own path in their own ways, then maybe, just maybe, we might be worthy of life as well.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Rough Guide to Turkey / Arrogant Worms, “I Am Cow“, Dirt / Leo Buscaglia, Love / Leo Buscaglia, The Way of the Bull / Denise Hruby, “Cows bring danger for hikers in Alps“, Washington Post, 12 August 2020 / Charles Schulz, Peanuts, 12 May 1984 / Kaku-an Shi-en, The Ten Bulls / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows

Canada Slim and the King of Pain

Eskişehir, Turkey, Saturday 28 May 2022

I am often asked, usually in a tone of utter astonishment:

Why are you in Turkey and not in Switzerland?

Above: Fairytale Castle, Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Turkey

I am often asked, usually in a tone of complete confusion:

Why have you chosen to live alone and not remain with your wife back in Landschlacht?

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

I am often asked, usually in a tone of total concern:

How do you feel being so far removed from the life you led back in Switzerland (or going further back, in Canada)?

Above: Flag of Canada

How can you possibly be happy?

The explanations are not so easy to elucidate.

“To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive.”

Robert Louis Stevenson

Above: Robert Louis Stevenson (1850 – 1894)

Certainly, the idea of going off to the unknown to seek adventures holds more than a touch of romance for me.

In my own humble way I might compare myself to early heroic explorers such as Ferdinand Magellan or to fictional travellers in the vein of Phileas Fogg, as circumnavigators of our planet have always captured the imagination of my adventurous soul.

Above: Ferdinand Magellan (1480 – 1521)

Above: First edition of Jules Verne’s Around the World in Eighty Days

I will openly admit that nothing can compare with the joy of the open road.

The sense of possibility and adventure brings feelings of exhilaration, too long submerged in the workaday routines of home.

Cheap air travel – Sorry, Greta Thunberg. – has opened up parts of the globe – for better or worse – once reserved for the seriously affluent.

The sense of possibility and adventure brings feelings of exhilaration, too long submerged in the workaday routines of home.

Cheap air travel – Sorry, Greta Thunberg. – has opened up parts of the globe – for better or worse – once reserved for the seriously affluent.

Above: Greta Thunberg

When travelling in far-flung corners of the world, you can escape the demands of modern life:

The chores, the clutter, the technology (this latter not so easy for millennials to abandon).

Above: Young adults using their mobile phones individually at a party

It is said that there is no fool like an old fool.

Should I not, a man who probably has fewer years ahead than behind, finally accept my fate, stay settled and be content with my assigned lot in life?

But whatever your stage in life, travelling spontaneously means you have the freedom to choose from an infinite spectrum of possibilities.

Those who have experienced independent travel have been smitten by the travel bug, moulded by Wanderlust, and will forever after long to visit more places, see more wonders and spend a longer time abroad.

I have been travelling, punctuated by periods of work to fund my travels, since my mid-20s.

Above: Your humble blogger

I met my wife when I was 30.

Above: Edmund Blair Leighton, The Wedding

Prior to my present circumstances in Turkey, I have lived and worked as a teacher in South Korea, Germany and Switzerland.

Above: Flag of South Korea

Above: Hwaseong Fortress, Suwon, South Korea

I have spent the last two decades in the last two aforementioned countries because of my relationship with my wife.

But part of the equation that determines a man’s total self-actualization is his ability to find happiness in the activities that generate his income.

In Germany this was easier.

Above: Flag of Germany

In Switzerland, my wife’s employment opportunities as a doctor were enhanced.

As a ESL teacher, my employment bonanza turned to dust in Switzerland.

Coming to Switzerland gave new life to my wife.

Coming to Switzerland was career suicide for me.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

The memory of a life that once was, where trekking in hinterlands was within the grasp of this ordinary man, gave me longing from a fascination ne’er forgotten for destinations as yet undiscovered.

Faraway places
With strange soundin’ names
Faraway over the sea
Those faraway places
With the strange soundin’ names
Are callin’, callin’ me

Goin’ to China
Or maybe Siam
I want to see for myself
Those faraway places
I’ve been readin’ about
In a book that I took from a shelf

I start getting restless
Whenever I hear
The whistle of a train
I pray for the day
I can get underway
And look for those castles in Spain

They call me a dreamer
Well, maybe I am
But I know that I’m burnin’ to see
Those faraway places
With the strange soundin’ names
Callin’, callin’ me

Of course, the practical, the logical reasoning that is the Germanic temperament invariably asks how such adventures can be afforded.

Magellan had the backing of the King and Queen of Spain, Phileas Fogg was a gentleman of independent means, and Michael Palin could always call on the resources of the BBC.

How can ordinary people possibly make their dreams a reality?

Above: Flag of the Spanish Empire (1516 – 1700)

Above: Michael Palin

I am a loveable idiot.

In my youth when I wanted to go somewhere I just went.

Once upon a time I entered the US with $10 Canadian in my pocket and left the US eight months later with $10 American.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

I walked many miles across the expanse of Canada with often minimal money and with no inkling where I might lay my head each evening.

Above: Canada (in green)

Like Blanche of A Streetcar Named Desire, I have always depended on the kindness of strangers and my own resourcefulness within the limits of the law.

The conventional means is to work hard all one’s life until that glorious wondrous day when you have the financial wherewithal to travel indefinitely.

But that makes the assumption that when that day arrives (if that day arrives) that a person has both the opportunity and the health to do so.

Grim spells of work, denying yourself the living of life may be a truly honourable, safe and secure, way of joining that safari in Tanzania, that diving in the Philippines, that bungee jumping in New Zealand sometime in the uncertain future.

Above: Flag of Tanzania

Above: Flag of the Philippines

Above: Flag of New Zealand

But what if it were possible to skip this decades-long, lifetime-long stage and head off into the horizon sooner than one’s senior years?

Instead of trying to finance the expensive trips advertised in the glossy travel brochures, what about trying to find alternative ways of experiencing those same places at a fraction of the cost?

Above: Travel agent, The Truman Show

Above: Jim Carrey (Truman Burbank), The Truman Show

Working in a faraway place allows the traveller to see how daily life is lived there.

Certainly, it is cheaper and quicker and far more satisfying a solution than waiting until I can afford to travel continuously in comfort.

And working abroad is an excellent way to experience a foreign culture from the inside.

The plucky Brit spending a few months on a Queensland outback station will have a different life experience than someone tending bar in Queens all their lives in the hopes that they might one day be able to afford that Florida fortnight in a resort hotel.

Above: Outback station, Queensland, Australia

Above: Bar, Queens, New York City, USA

Phil Tomkins, a 45-year-old Englishman who spent a year teaching on the tiny Greek island of Kea, (as quoted in Susan Griffith’s Work Your Way Around the World) describes the thought processes that galvanized him into action:

I think it comes down to the fact that we are only on this planet for a finger-snap of time.

If you have any kind of urge for a bit of adventure, then my advice would be to go for it!

Even if it all goes horribly wrong, you can look people in the eyes and say:

“At least, I gave it a try!”

You can work nine-to-five in an office or factory all day, come home, switch on the Idiot Lantern (what we North Americans call the Boob Tube) and sit there watching Michael Palin travelling the world – or you can be bold, seize the day, and do something amazing.

One thing I can guarantee:

When we are lying on our deathbed many years from now, we will not be saying to ourselves:

“Oh, I wish I had spent more time at the dead-end job and had a little less adventure in my life!”

Above: Ioulida, Kea, Greece

Above: Flag of Greece

Anyone with a taste for adventure and a modicum of nerve (or folly, depending on your point-of-view) has the potential for exploring the far-flung corners of the globe on very little money.

I am a loveable idiot, incomprehensible to many, more logical, folks.

For example, the textile factory that funds my weekly journey and sojourn in Denizli cheerfully, uncomplainingly paid for me to stay in a luxury hotel, the Park Dedeman.

There was absolutely no reason to complain about the standards of the services this hotel provided.

Above: Hotel Park Dedeman, Denizli, Turkey

I learned that were cheaper places for the company to put me up and since last week I am now to be a regular weekly guest at the Denizli Öğretmen Evi (Teachers’ House) at one third the cost of the Dedeman but with the same basic amenities provided in a less lavish form.

Granted this is not my money to worry about, but the OE feels more real, more authentic an experience than the Dedeman.

And, perhaps, if a decision for the continuation of ESL courses at the company hinges upon the cost of accommodating me in Denizli then I have made it easier for them to prolong the programme.

More importantly (at least to me) it is good to remind myself that comfort does not equal cultural experience.

The OE has few, if any, foreign guests.

And for Turks the OE is affordable, especially at time when the Turkish economy is hurting.

As for the textile factory that foots my bill, whether they acknowledge it or not, I have saved them money and have shown them, whether they see it or not, that I value their custom and wish to make it clear that I consider their needs as much as I own.

A luxury suite at a fancy hotel is nice, but is it a requirement for me?

No.

Above: Öğretmen Evi, Denizli, Turkey

I am often asked:

Wouldn’t the burden of being a stranger in a strange land be easier if shared?

Wouldn’t living abroad be more pleasant when someone were there by your side?

Are you not lonely sometimes?

Don’t you miss the wife?

To their surprise (and occasionally mine)(and to the consternation of the wife), loneliness is rarely an issue since solo travelling, solitary living, allows me to meet and be befriended by local people.

I have travelled quite pleasantly with my wife, but travelling with a significant other lacks the sense of possibility and adventure that I love most about travelling, about living abroad.

Whatever situations I get myself into when I am on my own, I have to get out of by myself.

Certainly there are sunsets I long to share and nights without end best survived together, but by the same token, the glorious moments, the feelings of triumph and absolute freedom, are uniquely mine.

Certainly we keep in communication with one another, thanks to the wonders of modern communication such as WhatsApp and Skype, for we remain married to one another at this time.

Above: WhatsApp logo

Above: Skype logo

Despite the limitations that time and distance create, I act responsibly to the best of my ability.

Do I honestly believe that she will wait indefinitely for me to end this “phase” of living and working abroad?

No, I do not believe so, for in my (albeit, limited) understanding of women, she craves the companionship that a constant partner provides.

I am not constantly consistently there.

And I cannot predict when this “phase” will end or even if it will end.

And let’s get real about the elephant in the room:

Sex.

Sex isn’t a separate part of a person.

Your heart, spirit, mind and body need to be along for the ride.

Sex is a spiritual practice, capable of transforming your whole outlook and refreshing your sense of glory in being alive.

And as much as self-manipulation is an essential and healthy part of a person’s sexuality throughout life, as much as it is the way to develop appreciation of ourselves and our sensory potential and realize that we own our own sexual energy, it is unfair to expect that self-love will indefinitely satisfy those who crave the intimacy of companionship.

My wife is a woman and women crave companionship.

She will not wait indefinitely nor is it reasonable to have such an expectation.

We are all animals, to one degree or another.

We like eating, drinking, sleeping, sex.

But what separates us from the animals is our ability to control our baser instincts.

You and me, baby, ain’t nothin’ but mammals
So let’s do it like they do on the Discovery Channel
(Do it again now)
You and me, baby, ain’t nothin’ but mammals
So let’s do it like they do on the Discovery Channel

I need food and drink and sleep to survive, but sex is a privilege not a right, a pleasure not a necessity.

And while I am married I refrain from the temptation of the latter as I seek to find myself in the adventure of solo living, of solo travelling.

Being alone, as much as there are moments when I miss the companionship of my wife, makes me more conscious of being alive when I am journeying in new and exciting ways.

Being in alien places and cultures gives me an increased connection with myself, because it is there in these new situations that my consciousness wakes up.

Above: James Stewart (George Bailey) and Thomas Mitchell (Uncle Billy), It’s A Wonderful Life

Away from Landschlacht, Switzerland, away from Lachute, Canada, I realize that I have turned off the unconscious autopilot that ran my normal life.

Above: rue Principale, Lachute, Québec, Canada

Away from the familiar, away from the safety and security, away from the routine, I start to take conscious control of my life.

Life becomes more immediately lived, with sometimes penury acting as a spur to action, with necessity becoming the mother of invention.

Of course, things can go desperately wrong.

Accidents will happen.

Folks get murdered, kidnapped, robbed.

You may get sick or lonely or fed up, have a demoralizing run of bad luck, fail to find a good job, begin to run out of money.

And, let me be honest, a job is a job is a job, whether it is in Switzerland or Swaziland, Canada or Costa Rica.

But when a job abroad does not work out successfully, the foreign experience is nevertheless more memorable than just staying at home.

Above: Travel agency poster, The Truman Show

Travelling is difficult at times.

Nothing much is familiar when we get to wherever we are going.

For many people, this is a strain.

Because they don’t understand everything that is happening, they try to diminish the experience, to make it unimportant and less real.

In my writing I try to show the reader how to accept, as calmly as possible, the sights and experiences of a strange place.

I try to make the foreign feel more familiar.

Part of that familiarization is the acceptance that life is not always fair, that experience will not always be positive or cheery.

Guidebooks tend to stress fun and ignore problems, but this attitude is not necessarily helpful.

Warnings and precautions should make a trip easier and more enjoyable rather than nerve-wracking.

On Thursday 19 May, a banking holiday in Turkey when many institutions (including schools) were closed, “the boys” (the male staff of Wall Street English Eskisehir) went to a hammam (a Turkish bathhouse) but those who have never done so were nervous and reluctant about the entire adventure.

Above: Kaplicar Ilicar Hamam, Eskişehir, Turkey

(The Commemoration of Atatürk, Youth and Sports Day (Turkish: Atatürk’ü Anma, Gençlik ve Spor Bayramı), is an annual Turkish national holiday celebrated on 19 May to commemorate Mustafa Kemal Atatürk’s landing at Samsun on 19 May 1919, which is regarded as the beginning of the Turkish War of Independence in the official historiography.)

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881 – 1938)

I, on the other hand, wish I could have joined them, but duty determined that I had to, once again, travel on Thursdays to Denizli.

Above: Bird’s eye view of Denizli, Turkey

I reminded the hammam newbies that when you feel nervous while travelling – for it is the foreigners, the “recent” residents of Turkey, who have yet to try much of what Turkey has to offer – either out of ignorance of what is happening or out of fear of what you have heard might happen, you cut yourself off from experience – good or bad.

Above: Flag of Turkey

You communicate in only one sense:

Defensively.

That is why tourists often speak to the locals in tones one would address a lamppost.

When you are relaxed you can communicate – a lesson my foreman Rasool frequently tries to teach me at work – even if it is just a quick smile or a passing greeting.

Above: Rasool Ajini

So, this is one of the main purposes of my writing:

To help travellers – And aren’t we all travellers in one way or another? – be both aware and appreciative of what they see and experience, to lessen the impact, not only on the reader, but on the places and people they travel to see.

Wherever you happen to be geographically, travel actually takes place in your brain.

Wherever you go there you are.

But I think that far too many folks expect to find home teleported to the places they have travelled.

Unfortunately, the landscape reflects this expectation as it seems to be continually transformed into the familiarity of the place you left behind upon the place wherever you find yourself now.

Home is so sad.

It stays as it was left, shaped to the comfort of the last to go, as if to win them back.

Philip Larkin, “Home Is So Sad

Above: Philip Larkin (1922 – 1985)

I was lucky, I know, to have been setting out at that time, in a landscape not yet bulldozed for speed.

Many of the country roads still followed their original tracks, drawn by packhorse or lumbering cartwheel, hugging the curve of a valley or yielding to a promontory like the wandering line of a stream.

It was not, after all, so very long ago, but no one could make the journey today.

Many of the old roads have gone.

The motor car, since then, has begun to cut the landscape to pieces, through which the hunched-up traveller races at gutter height, seeing less than a dog in a ditch.

Laurie Lee, As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning

Above: Laurie Lee (1914 – 1997)

Of course the world has been forced to concede even more ground in the search for greater speed and efficiency today.

Movement costs money and the faster the journey the quicker the expenditure.

The longer the stop, the longer the trip.

Faster the journey, lesser the experience.

The slower the journey, the greater sense of meaning the experience has.

Train traveller Paul Theroux spoke of the misery of air travel:

You define a good flight by negatives:

You didn’t get hijacked, you didn’t crash, you didn’t throw up, you were not late, you were not nauseated by the food.

So you are grateful.

Paul Theroux, The Old Patagonian Express

An uncomfortable truth about the modern holiday is that now, paradoxically, we can move so quickly around the world, most of us don’t actually travel any more.

We only arrive.

For some people, much of the enjoyment of a trip is in the advance planning.

They haunt libraries, bookstores and the Internet, send off for brochures and itineraries, draw lines and “X”s on maps and consult calendars for a propitious departure date.

Nothing is left to the imagination.

Everything that could be conceivably be attractive has been packaged and sanitized for your protection so that you can consume whatever you want, go wherever you want, without any need for individual search or discovery.

Personal interests and energy levels are very important, but many travellers fail to take these factors into account, however, and instead force themselves into the type of trip they assume they should be making.

Frantic frenzy, fumbling from church to ruin, cathedral-gazing and temple-crawling, leaves even the mighty weak.

I am my selfie, my companion my camera, plastic electronics grafted to faces capturing faces, a part of the landscape and yet apart from it, we are overexposed and under-stimulated.

Souvenirs of the surreal, not knowing where we are nor really caring to know.

Photographs are not memories.

The most important parts of any trip – how you felt and what you learned – collect in your mind over time.

If it was truly important, you will remember it.

You may not understand why the thing you remember is valuable when it seemed less crucial at the time, but that realization comes only with time.

All the things you can see in your mind, the experiences you are so rapturously seeking to reveal cannot, can never be, captured in a snapshot, or vicariously shared in a video.

Photographs break the spell of imagination.

Snapshots lack magic.

Videos fail to capture the vibrancy of experience.

Midnight, not a sound from the pavement
Has the moon lost her memory?
She is smiling alone
In the lamplight, the withered leaves collect at my feet
And the wind begins to moan

Memory, all alone in the moonlight
I can dream of the old days
Life was beautiful then
I remember the time I knew what happiness was
Let the memory live again

Every street lamp seems to beat
A fatalistic warning
Someone mutters and the street lamp sputters
And soon it will be morning

Daylight, I must wait for the sunrise
I must think of a new life
And I mustn’t give in
When the dawn comes, tonight will be a memory too
And a new day will begin

Burnt out ends of smoky days
The stale, cold smell of morning
A street lamp dies, another night is over
Another day is dawning

Touch me, it’s so easy to leave me
All alone with the memory
Of my days in the sun
If you touch me, you’ll understand what happiness is
Look, a new day has begun

Above: Logo of the musical Cats

We have forgotten the thrill of living in the moment, which is the real destination of all journeys, is what the greatest travel writers reveal and revel in their meticulous descriptions of the places they go and the people they meet.

It is only when you learn of the existence of moments that have the capacity to change your life forever do you begin to understand the beauty and majesty of existence, that the meaning of life is in the living of life.

When we seize the moment and embrace the fleeting opportunity it brings then do we truly live.

To truly travel is to slowly pick at the fabric of national identity as boundaries between nations are revealed as the transitional ideas they are.

There is a tendency to view the world in terms of miles/kilometres rather than actual geography, for actual geography has been been terraformed into miles of roads jammed with traffic.

A few hundred years ago there was no option but to travel slowly along the contours and channels of the earth and sea.

Indeed, that was the very definition of travel.

The effort required in those days meant that those who did go on long journeys came back as heroes, viewed by their home-locked peers as superior men and women.

Above: Spirit of St. Louis, National Air and Space Museum, Washington DC.
The Spirit of St. Louis is the custom-built single engine, single seat monoplane that was flown solo by Charles Lindbergh (1902 – 1974) on 20 – 21 May 1927, on the first non-stop flight from New York to Paris.

In 1749, Thomas Nugent, who wrote a guidebook of destinations one might seek on a Grand Tour, describes travel as:

The only means of improving the understanding and of acquiring a high degree of reputation.

The first civilized nations honoured even such as made but short voyages the title of philosophers and conquerors.

Nugent traces the lineage of those who head abroad to seek knowledge back to the Argonauts and Odysseus in Homer’s Odyssey.

I am not sure anyone would draw such a grandiose comparison with the average holidaymaker today.

Above: Thomas Nugent (1700 – 1772)

We have become a world of people speeding across the planet in quest of somewhere else and not seeing anything of anywhere we speed through.

Time is limited, we cry, and so we travel great distances at a marathon pace in order to see as much as possible.

Why is everyone in such a rush?

Above: Cover of U2’s “I Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For

We are a disconcerting congregation of the damned, discouraged and exhausted and spaced-out from driving or riding thousands of miles in a few days with the sole thought of finding a hotel room that offers the comforts of the home we so eagerly abandoned for a taste of the “exotic” somewhere else.

The most lasting impression instead is smelly gas stations, lousy breakfasts with cold coffee, hotel lobbies and ragged folks trying to shine your shoes whenever the weary traveller unwisely slumps down upon a park bench in an urban jungle.

Cover as many miles as you can between dawn and collapse.

Travel so fast that today might still be yesterday in the half-remembered remnants of the elusive moment.

See as much as you can see and remember little, if anything, of what you saw.

The speed at which you travel defines the experience.

A road is a tunnel that traps you in linear places, linear concepts and conceptions, linear time, an unwelcome refugee in Flatland.

The road provides ease and convenience, but cheats you of everything you might learn if only you had the time, courage and curiosity to leave it.

Walking is a virtue, tourism is a deadly sin.

Bruce Chatwin, What Am I Doing Here?

Above: Bruce Chatwin (1940 – 1989)

All horsepower corrupts.

Patrick Leigh Fermor, A Time of Gifts

Above: Patrick Leigh Fermor (1915 – 2011)

Perhaps we do not need to travel far.

Perhaps the beauty of treating your own home with a sense of adventure, forearmed with the local knowledge others normally don’t have time to acquire, may teach us to notice, may teach us to reflect upon Life itself and the life and lives that surround us.

Perhaps then our lives might be enriched.

Perhaps then we might finally see the world and the way we live in life-enhancing ways.

Life is too short and too precious for us to pass through it without leaving a few footprints behind us, without acquiring a few memories worth remembering.

A man’s experience in a certain place at a certain time must be unique, in some way different from the experience of others.

We need to leave a mark of the choices we make (or don’t make) that map our lives into the journeys they become.

These milestones, these footprints, are the actions we make in the moment, the ones that change our loves and our lives forever.

Henry David Thoreau wrote in the conclusion of Walden (his treatise on the succour to be found in a simple rural life away from the world of busy men):

If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer.

Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away.

Above: Henry David Thoreau (1817 – 1862)

Nevertheless, the question remains:

Why did you leave?

For ultimately you cannot escape yourself.

Wherever you go there you are.

When I was young, it seemed that life was so wonderful
A miracle, oh it was beautiful, magical
And all the birds in the trees, well they’d be singing so happily
Oh joyfully, playfully watching me
But then they send me away to teach me how to be sensible
Logical, oh responsible, practical
And they showed me a world where I could be so dependable
Oh clinical, oh intellectual, cynical

There are times when all the world’s asleep
The questions run too deep
For such a simple man
Won’t you please, please tell me what we’ve learned
I know it sounds absurd

Please tell me who I am

I said, watch what you say or they’ll be calling you a radical
Liberal, oh fanatical, criminal
Won’t you sign up your name, we’d like to feel you’re acceptable
Respectable, oh presentable, a vegetable
Oh, take it take it yeah

But at night, when all the world’s asleep
The questions run so deep
For such a simple man
Won’t you please tell me what we’ve learned
I know it sounds absurd
Please tell me who I am, who I am, who I am, who I am
‘Cause I was feeling so logical
D-d-digital
One, two, three, five
Oh, oh, oh, oh
It’s getting unbelievable

There’s a little black spot on the sun today
It’s the same old thing as yesterday
There’s a black hat caught in a high tree top
There’s a flag pole rag and the wind won’t stop
I have stood here before inside the pouring rain
With the world turning circles running ’round my brain
I guess I’m always hoping that you’ll end this reign
But it’s my destiny to be the king of pain

The Police musician Sting (Gordon Sumner) married actress Frances Tomelty on 1 May 1976.

They had two children: Joseph (born 23 November 1976) and Fuschia Katherine (“Kate“) (born 17 April 1982).

In 1980, Sting became a tax exile in Galway, Ireland.

Above: Sting

Galway (Irish: Gaillimh) is the county town of County Galway on the west coast of Ireland.

It is Ireland’s 4th largest city, with a population in 2016 of 79,934, but its historic centre on the east bank of the River Corrib is compact and colourful.

It is a party town, with live music and revellers spilling onto its pedestrianised central street.

It is also a base for exploring the scenic surrounding county.

It is a lively, buzzing colourful city that feels well-connected to the rest of the world.

Above: Images of Galway, Ireland

Eyre Square is the place to begin exploring the city, as it is the transport hub and with a cluster of hotels and eating places.

It is an attractive green space, with a pedestrianised shopping mall just south.

Artwork includes the “Galway Hooker” (a fountain styled like a traditional fishing boat), the Browne Doorway (from the house of one of the ruling families), and a bust of JF Kennedy who visited in 1963.

Above: Galway Hookers Fountain and Browne Doorway, Eyre Square, Galway, Ireland

The square is officially named after JFK but this never stuck.

Above: John F. Kennedy (1917 – 1963)

It has always been called Eyre Square after the mayor who presented this plot of land to the city in 1710.

And, may the saints preserve us, so shall it ever be.

Above: Eyre Square, Galway, Ireland

The historic spine of the city leads from Eyre Square southwest to the river, to William Street, then Shop Street, then High Street, then Quay Street, all pedestrianised, an agreeable stroll from park to pub to pub to eating place to pub.

At the top of Shop Street, Lynch’s Castle is a fine medieval town house, once home to the Lynch dynasty.

But nowadays it is a branch of Allied Irish Banks:

You are welcome to look in during opening hours, but there is not much to see.

Above: Lynch’s Castle, Galway, Ireland

The Claddagh Ring is a style of mani in fede finger ring:

Two hands join to clasp a heart.

It has been a design for wedding or engagement rings since medieval times, but it became a Galway tradition from 1700, when the jewellers worked near an Cladach, the city shore.

It became popular from the late 20th century, and legends were embellished around it as ingeniously as its designs.

Above: A Claddagh ring

The Claddagh Museum hews to the “Joyce” legend, after a man captured by Algerian corsairs who learned the design in captivity.

Above: Claddagh Museum, Galway, Ireland

He returned to Galway where of course his sweetheart had remained true.

Ah, love.

The heart is often surmounted by a crown, or isn’t, depending on your allegiances in that matter. 

Free is the museum.

(No, not the rings though).

Above: View of the Claddagh, Galway, Ireland

It is a collegiate church which doesn’t have a resident priest, but members of a seminary (a College of Vicars) take turns.

St Nicholas is the largest medieval church still in everyday use in Ireland.

It was founded in 1320 and enlarged over the following two centuries.

Above: St. Nicholas Collegiate Church, Galway, Ireland

It is dedicated to St Nicholas of Myra (modern Demre, Turkey) (circa 300 AD), patron saint of seafarers, and the story of Columbus worshipping here is credible.

Above: Nicholas of Myra (270 – 343)

Above: Photograph of the desecrated sarcophagus in the St. Nicholas Church, Demre, Turkey, where his bones were kept before they were removed and taken to Bari (Italy) in 1087

Above: Myra Rock Tombs, Demre, Turkey

Above: Christopher Columbus (1451 – 1506)

There are large tombs of the Lynch family, and a plaque at the Lynch memorial window claims to be the spot where 15th century mayor James hanged his own son Walter for killing a Spanish visitor, or so goes the tale.

Above: Lynch Memorial Window, St. Nicholas Collegiate Church, Galway, Ireland

In 2002 St Nick’s conducted the first blessing of a same-sex partnership (the Avowing Friendship Service for a lesbian couple) in an Irish church, but the Bishop prohibited any such unbiblical goings-on in future.

Above: LGBT rainbow flag

Although the church is Protestant (which it obviously wasn’t in Columbus’ day), in 2005 it was used by an RC congregation while their own St Augustine Church was refurbished.

It is also used for worship by the Romanian, Russian Orthodox and the Mar Thoma Syrian congregations.

When in Rome, as they say…..

It is X o’clock, what faith shall we follow now?

Above: Interior of St. Nicholas Collegiate Church, Galway, Ireland

The Hall of the Red Earl is the earliest medieval structure to be seen within the walls of the city.

It was built by the de Burgo family in the 13th century and was the main municipal building, acting as town hall, court house and tax collection office.

Above: Hall of the Red Earl as it once appeared

But a fragment is all that remains, protected behind glass, and it won’t take a minute to see.

The modern building adjoining is the base of Galway Civic Trust, and their guided walks through the city start here. 

Free.

Above: Ruins of the Hall of the Red Earl, Galway, Ireland

Medieval Galway had city walls, which, in 1584, were extended to protect the quays at the river outlet.

This extension, the Spanish Arch, known as “the head of the walls” (ceann an bhalla), is nowadays almost the only remnant of those walls.

In the 18th century the quays were extended, and two arches were cut in the walls to improve street access to the quays.

They were probably originally known as the “Eyre Arches“, but Galway was Ireland’s main port for trade with Spain and Portugal.

In 1755, the Lisbon Tsunami wrecked the arches, but one was later reopened, so they became known as the Spanish Arch and the Blind Arch.

It is a pleasant area to sit or stroll.

Above: Spanish Arch, Galway, Ireland

On the west bank of the River Corrib as it enters the sea is the ancient neighbourhood of The Claddagh.

For centuries it was an Irish-speaking enclave outside the city walls.

Claddagh residents were mainly fisher folk and were governed by an elected ‘King‘.

The King of the Claddagh settled or arbitrated disputes among the locals and had the privilege of a white sail on his fishing boat.

The last true king, Martin Oliver, died in 1972.

The title is still used but in a purely honorary and ceremonial context.

The current King is Michael Lynskey.

God save the King.

Long may he reign.

Above: Claddagh, Galway, Ireland

The Galway City Museum has three floors of galleries with seven long-term exhibitions on Galway’s archaeology, history and links to the sea.

Two halls have rotating exhibitions. 

The Museum has two main sections: one about the heritage of Galway and one about Irish artists from the second half of the 20th century.

Above: Galway City Museum

This Museum also houses the statue of the poet, Pádraic Ó Conaire, which was originally located in the Kennedy Park section of Eyre Square, prior to the Square’s renovation.

Free.

Above: Pádraic Ó Conaire (1882 – 1928)

Nora Barnacle (1884 – 1951) grew up in Galway and came to live here with her mother who had separated from Nora’s drunkard father.

Nora’s boyfriends had a habit of dying, so she left for Dublin where in 1904 she met James Joyce, and “knew him at once for just another Dublin jackeen chatting up a country girl“.

Soon she would have cause to bemoan his drinking, hanging about with artistic ne’er-do-wells, spendthrift ways, obscure nonsensical writing style, and his demands for English puddings.

Above: James Joyce family, Paris, 1924
Clockwise from top left –
James Joyce, Giorgio Joyce (1890 – 1976), Nora Barnacle, Lucia Joyce (1907 – 1982)

They lived mostly in Trieste and Paris then Zürich, where James died and Nora lived out her own final years.

Above: Statue of James Joyce (1882 – 1941), Trieste, Italy

Above: Plaque at rue de l’Odeon 12, Paris, France
In 1922, at this location, Mlle. Sylvia Beach published Ulysses by James Joyce

Above: James Joyce grave, Fluntern Cemetery, Zürich, Switzerland

Her house in Galway was a small museum – indeed, the smallest museum in all of Ireland – of Joyce memorabilia (including letters, but not the hotties), but was closed in 2020.

Above: Nora Barnacle House, Galway, Ireland

Above: Nora Barnacle House, Galway, Ireland

Galway Cathedral is Roman Catholic cathedral, built 1958-1965, on the site of an old prison.

It is an imposing limestone building in a mixture of retro-classical styles, which some detest.

The dome, pillars and round arches are Renaissance, while a Romanesque portico dominates the main façade.

Michael Browne (Bishop 1937-1976) published an account of the preparation, design, building work and layout.

The organ was re-conditioned in 2007 and recitals show off the acoustics.

There are regular masses, with one Sunday mass in Gaelic.

Above: Galway Cathedral, Galway, Ireland

The River Corrib flows for 6 km south from Lough Corrib to enter Galway Bay.

In 1178 the friars of Claire Galway cut a new channel out of the lough, east of the original outflow, and this became the main course of the river.

It passes the ruin of Menlo Castle to reach the northwest edge of the city at a salmon weir:

Watch them swim upriver in early summer.

The last kilometre of the river is very fast, great for driving waterwheels but not navigable, so the Eglinton Canal was cut in the 19th century, with swing bridges, locks, and side-races for mills.

The swing bridges have been replaced by fixed bridges so the Canal is no longer navigable except by kayak.

Above: Salmon Weir Bridge, Corrib River, Galway, Ireland

University Quad was the original quadrangle of the college that opened in 1849 and became one of the three colleges of Queens University of Ireland (the others being Belfast and Cork).

Since 1997, it has been known as the National University of Ireland Galway.

The Quad buildings are in mock Tudor Gothic style modelled on Oxford’s Christ Church, so their aspirations are clear.

They are nowadays the admin offices of a huge modern campus stretching from the river and canal to Newcastle Road, then continuing west of that as University Hospital. 

Free.

Above: Coat of arms of the Queen’s University of Ireland

The Promenade is the main shoreline attraction, stretching for 2 km into Salthill.

Traditionally you turned around once you had kicked the wall at the two-level diving platform at the junction of Threadneedle Road.

Lots of pubs and B&Bs along here.

It has long been hoped to extend the promenade west to Silverstrand, and to reinforce the crumbling coast against sea erosion.

By 2015, this plan had reached design stage, but with no prospect of the funding that would enable it to go to tender, and it has all gone very quiet since then.

So you can pick your own way along the headland west of Salthill but there is no paved promenade.

Above: The Promenade, Galway, Ireland

Galway Atlantaquaria is a large aquarium that majors on local marine life, so you will see sharks.

But they are Irish sharks and proud of it.

Staff display the various beasties:

Care to cuddle a huge crab? 

Mutton Island is connected to the mainland at Claddagh by a one-kilometre causeway.

(Don’t confuse it with Mutton Island off Quilty in County Clare.)

It is popular for wedding photos taking in the lighthouse foreground and cityscape background, while artfully avoiding the sewage plant.

Above: Mutton Island, Galway, Ireland

Fort Hill Cemetery, on Lough Atalia Road, is the oldest cemetery still in use in Galway City.

Inside the main gate is a memorial to sailors of the Spanish Armada who were buried here in the 1580s.

Above: Forthill, Galway, Ireland

Above: Spanish Armada sailors memorial

Above: English ships and the Spanish Armada

Rahoon Cemetery (officially known as Mount St. Joseph Cemetery), Rahoon Road, on the western edge of the city affords splendid panoramic views of the city.

Above: Rahoon Cemetery, Galway, Ireland

Among the people buried here are: 

  • Michael Bodkin (an admirer of Nora Barnacle who was the inspiration for James Joyce’s character, “Michael Furey” in The Dead

Above: Grave of Michael Bodkin

  • Michael Feeney (the “lover” in Joyce’s poem She Weeps Over Rahoon)

  • actress Siobhán McKenna 

Above: Siobhán McKenna (1922 – 1986)

Bohermore Cemetery (or the New Cemetery, as it is more popularly known), Cemetery Cross, Bohermore, was opened in 1880.

Above: Bohermore Cemetery, Galway, Ireland

It contains two mortuary chapels and is the burial place of several important Galwegians, including: 

  • Pádraic Ó Conaire, the Gaelic author 

  • William Joyce, more widely known as Lord Haw-Haw the Nazi propagandist 

Above: William Joyce (1906 – 1946)

  • Augusta, Lady Gregory, co-founder of the Abbey Theatre in Dublin

Above: Lady Augusta Gregory (1852 – 1932)

Above: Abbey Theatre, Dublin, Ireland

  • Michael Morris, 3rd Baron Killanin, a senior member of one of the Tribes of Galway and former world president of the International Olympic Committee

Above: Lord Killanin (1914 – 1999)

  • A memorial to the 91 people who died on 14 August 1959, when Dutch KLM Flight 607-E crashed into the sea 180 km (112 mi) west of Galway, can be seen just inside the main gates. Several bodies of the passengers are buried around the memorial.

Galway is known as Ireland’s Cultural Heart (Croí Cultúrtha na hÉireann) and hosts numerous festivals, celebrations and events.

Every November, Galway hosts the Tulca Festival of Visual Arts, as well as numerous festivals.

On 1 December 2014, the Director General of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) announced the official designation of Galway as a UNESCO City of Film.

In 2004, there were three dance organisations, ten festival companies, two film organisations, two Irish language organisations, 23 musical organisations, twelve theatre companies, two visual arts groups, and four writers’ groups based in the city.

Furthermore, there were 51 venues for events, most of which were specialised for a certain field (e.g. concert venues or visual arts galleries), though ten were described as being ‘multiple event‘ venues.

In 2007, Galway was named as one of the eight sexiest cities in the world.

Above: Galway, Ireland

A 2008 poll ranked Galway as the 42nd best tourist destination in the world, or 14th in Europe and 2nd in Ireland (behind Dingle).

Above: Strand Street, Dingle, Ireland

It was ranked ahead of all European capitals except Edinburgh, and many traditional tourist destinations (such as Venice).

Above: Edinburgh, Scotland

Above: Images of Venice, Italy

The New Zealand Herald listed Galway as one of ‘five great cities to visit in 2014‘.

Galway has a vibrant and varied musical scene. 

Galway and its people are mentioned in several songs, including Ed Sheeran’s Galway Girl (2017).

Above: Cover art, Galway Girl, Ed Sheeran

Many sporting, music, arts and other events take place in the city.

Galway has a diverse sporting heritage, with a history in sports ranging from horse racing, Gaelic games, soccer and rugby to rowing, basketball, motorsport, greyhound racing and others.)

Above: Galway Races

Above: Galway hurling

Above: Galway United Football Club badge

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

(A tax exile is a person who leaves a country to avoid the payment of income tax or other taxes.

It is a person who already owes money to the tax authorities or wishes to avoid being liable in the future to taxation at what they consider high tax rates, instead choosing to reside in a foreign country or jurisdiction which has no taxes or lower tax rates.

In general, there is no extradition agreement between countries which covers extradition for outstanding tax liabilities.

Going into tax exile is a form of tax mitigation or avoidance.

A tax exile normally cannot return to their home country without being subject to outstanding tax liabilities, which may prevent them from leaving the country until they have been paid.

Most countries tax individuals who are resident in their jurisdiction.

Though residency rules vary, most commonly individuals are resident in a country for taxation purposes if they spend at least six months (or some other period) in any one tax year in the country, and/or have an abiding attachment to the country, such as owning a fixed property.)

Switzerland has seen its share of tax exiles from other lands.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Noel Coward left the UK for tax reasons in the 1950s, receiving harsh criticism in the press. 

He first settled in Bermuda but later bought houses in Jamaica and Switzerland (in the village of Les Avants, near Montreux), which remained his homes for the rest of his life.

Above: Noel Coward (1899 – 1973)

David Bowie moved from the United Kingdom to Switzerland in 1976, first settling in Blonay and then Lausanne in 1982.

Above: David Bowie (1947 – 2016)

Roger Moore became a tax exile from the United Kingdom in 1978, originally to Switzerland, and divided his year between his three homes: an apartment in Monte Carlo, Monaco, a chalet in Crans-Montana, Switzerland and a home in the south of France.

Above: Roger Moore (1927 – 2017)

In April 2009, the Sunday Times Rich List estimated Sting‘s wealth at £175 million and ranked him the 322nd wealthiest person in Britain.

A decade later, Sting was estimated to have a fortune of £320 million in the 2019 Sunday Times Rich List, making him one of the ten wealthiest people in the British music industry.

In 1982, after the birth of his second child, Sting separated from Tomelty.

Above: Wedding of Sting and Frances Tomelty

Above: Trudie Styler and Sting

The split was controversial.

As The Independent reported in 2006:

Tomelty just happened to be Trudie’s best friend.

Sting and Frances lived next door to Trudie in Bayswater, West London, for several years before the two of them became lovers.

When you take the Tube in London you get from A to B very quickly.

It is undoubtedly efficient and much more practical when it comes to getting to and from work, but it is utterly hopeless when it comes to developing a sense of the place.

This is why London is so daunting for tourists, for the Tube leaves the tourist with mere snippets of memories of disparate places that have no obvious link.

London is a mish-mash of postcard pictures, each surrounded by…..

Nothing at all.

Above: Map of the London Underground

Above: The nickname “Tube” comes from the almost circular tube-like tunnels through which the small profile trains travel.

Above: London, England

The multiplication of technologies in the name of efficiency is actually eradicating free time by making it possible to maximize the time and place for production and minimize the unstructured time in between.

New timesaving technologies make most workers more productive, not more free, in a world that seems to be accelerating around them.

Too, the rhetoric of efficiency around these technologies suggests that what cannot be quantified cannot be valued – that that vast array of pleasures which fall into the category of doing nothing in particular, of woolgathering, cloud-gazing, wandering, window-shopping, are nothing but voids to be filled by something more definite, more productive, or faster-paced….

The indeterminacy of a ramble, on which much may be discovered, is being replaced by the determinate shortest distance to be traversed with all possible speed, as well as by the electronic transmissions that make real travel less necessary….

Technology has its uses, but I fear its false urgency, its call to speed, its insistence that travel is less important than arrival.

I like walking because it is slow and I suspect that the mind, like the feet, works at about three miles an hour.

If this is so, then modern life is moving faster than the speed of thought, or thoughtfulness.

Walking is about being outside, in public space, and public space is also being abandoned and eroded in older cities, eclipsed by technologies and services that don’t require leaving home, and shadowed by fear in many places (and strange places are always more frightening than known ones, so the less one wanders the city the more alarming it becomes, while the fewer the wanderers the more lonely and dangerous it really becomes).

Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking

The news, with its stories of crime-ridden chaos, leave the London of the brain flitting between terror and tourist cliché.

All its magic and history seems lost.

But take the time to walk around London, through all its parks, and you will begin to piece together the way one part of London ends and another begins.

Get lost and let serendipity show you forgotten corners and shadowy streets that are the London between Tube stations.

You might even pick up a sense of the contours that cities do a good job of hiding.

Maps are of little practical use without a landscape and a sense of place.

The slower the journey, the greater sense of meaning, the more meaningful the experience.

Historic, sprawling, sleepless London can be a wonderful place to visit, a wonderful place to live.

Monuments from the English capital’s glorious past are everywhere, from medieval banqueting halls to the great churches of Christopher Wren.

Above: Christopher Wren (1632 – 1723)

Above: St. Paul’s Cathedral, London, England

The modern skyline is dominated by a new generation of eye-grabbing, cloud-scratching, skyscrapers, colossal companions of Ferris wheels and giant walkie talkies.

Above: London Eye

Whether you spend your time relaxing in Bloomsbury’s quiet Georgian squares, drinking real ale in a Docklands riverside pub or checking out Peckham’s galleries, you can discover a London that is still identifiably a collection of villages, each with a distinct personality.

London is incredibly diverse, offering cultural and culinary delights from all around the world.

Above: Bloomsbury Square, London, England

Above: Docklands, London, England

Above: Peckham, London, England

Certainly, London is big.

In fact, it once was the largest capital city in the European Union (pre-Brexit), stretching for more than 30 miles from east to west, with a population fast approaching 9 million.

Above: Flag of the European Union

Above: Brexit flag

London’s traditional landmarks – Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Tower of London, and the like – continue to draw in millions of tourists every year.

Things change fast, though, and the regular emergence of new attractions ensures that there is plenty (too much) to do even for those who have visited before.

Above: Clock Tower, Westminster Palace, London, England

Above: Aerial view of Buckingham Palace, London, England

Above: St. Paul’s Cathedral during the Blitz, 29 December 1940

Above: Aerial view of the Tower of London

London’s museums, galleries and institutions are constantly reinventing themselves, from the V & A (Victoria and Albert) to the British Museum.

Above: Victoria and Albert Museum entrance, London, England

Above: Aerial view of the British Museum, London, England

The City boasts the Tate Modern (the world’s largest modern art museum) and the Shard (Europe’s highest building).

Above: Tate Modern, London, England

Above: The Shard, London, England

But the biggest problem for newcomers remains:

London is bewilderingly amorphous.

Local Londoners cope with this by compartmentalizing the City (and themselves), identifying strongly with the neighbourhoods in which they work and/or live, only making occasional forays outside of their comfort zones when shopping or entertainment beckons.

Above: Tower Bridge, London, England

The solution to discovering a place for what it truly is may be found by simply wandering.

In a city, every building, every storefront, opens onto a different world, compressing all the variety of human life into a jumble of possibilities made rich by all its complexities and contradictions.

The ordinary offers wonder and the people on the street are a multitude of glimpses into lives utterly different from your own.

Cities offer anonymity, variety and conjunction, qualities best basked in by walking.

A city is greater than its parts and contains more than any inhabitant will ever possibly know.

A great city makes the unknown possible and spurs the imagination.

Above: London, England

There are fewer greater delights than to walk up and down them in the evening alone with thousands of other people, up and down, relishing the lights coming through the trees or shining from the facades, listening to the sounds of music and foreign voices and traffic, enjoying the smell of flowers and good food and the air from the nearby sea.

The sidewalks are lined with small shops, bars, stalls, dance halls, movies, booths lighted by acetylene lamps.

And everywhere are strange faces, strange costumes, strange and delightful impressions.

To walk up such a street into the quieter, more formal part of town, is to be part of a procession, part of a ceaseless ceremony of being initiated into the city and rededicating the city itself.

J.B. Jackson, The Stranger’s Path

Above: John Brinckerhoff Jackson (1909 – 1996)

People and places become one another and this kind of realism can only be gained by walking.

Above: Tramway, Eskişehir, Turkey

Allow me to introduce myself – first negatively.

No landlord is my friend and brother, no chambermaid loves me, no waiter worships me, no boots admires and envies me.

No round of beef or tongue or ham is expressly cooked for me, no pigeon pie is especially made for me, no hotel-advertisement is personally addressed to me, no hotel room tapestried with great coats and railway wrappers is set apart for me, no house of public entertainment in the United Kingdom greatly cares for my opinion of its brandy or sherry.

When I go upon my journeys, I am not usually rated at a low figure in the bill.

When I come home from my journeys, I never get any commission.

I know nothing about prices, and should have no idea, if I were put to it, how to wheedle a man into ordering something he doesn’t want.

As a town traveller, I am never to be seen driving a vehicle externally like a young and volatile pianoforte van, and internally like an oven in which a number of flat boxes are baking in layers.

As a country traveller, I am rarely to be found in a gig, and am never to be encountered by a pleasure train, waiting on the platform of a branch station, quite a Druid in the midst of a light Stonehenge of samples.

And yet – proceeding now, to introduce myself positively – I am both a town traveller and a country traveller, and am always on the road.

Figuratively speaking, I travel for the great house of Human Interest Brothers, and have rather a large connection in the fancy goods way.

Literally speaking, I am always wandering here and there from my rooms in Covent Garden, London – now about the city streets: now, about the country by-roads – seeing many little things, and some great things, which, because they interest me, I think may interest others.

These are my chief credentials as the Uncommercial Traveller.”

There is a subtle state most dedicated urban walkers know, a sort of basking in solitude – a dark solitude punctuated with encounters as the night sky is punctuated with stars.

In the country, one’s solitude is geographical – one is altogether outside society, so solitude has a sensible geographical explanation and there is a kind of communion with the nonhuman.

In the city, one is alone because the world is made up of strangers.

To be a stranger surrounded by strangers, to walk along silently bearing one’s secrets and imagining those of the people one passes, is among the starkest of luxuries.

The uncharted identity with its illimitable possibilities is one of the distinctive qualities of urban living, a liberatory state for those who come to emancipate themselves from family and community expectation, to experiment with subculture and identity.

It is an observer’s state, cool, withdrawn, with senses sharpened, a good state for anybody who needs to reflect and create.

In small doses, melancholy, alienation and introspection are among life’s most refined pleasures.

Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking

It was Dr Samuel Johnson, the man many thank for our modern dictionary, who wrote in the 18th century:

You find no man, at all intellectual, who is willing to leave London.

Sir, when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life.

For there is in London all that life can afford.

Above: Samuel Johnson (1709 – 1784)

Above: Dr. Johnson’s House, London, England

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

There’s a little black spot on the sun today, that’s my soul up there
It’s the same old thing as yesterday, that’s my soul up there
There’s a black hat caught in a high tree top, that’s my soul up there
There’s a flag pole rag and the wind won’t stop, that’s my soul up there
I have stood here before inside the pouring rain
With the world turning circles running ’round my brain
I guess I’m always hoping that you’ll end this reign
But it’s my destiny to be the king of pain

Actually, it was something I said.

I’d just left my first wife – a very painful break – and I went to Jamaica to try and pull myself together.

I was fortunate to be able to go to Jamaica, I have to say, and stayed at this nice house and was looking at the sun one day.

I was with Trudie, who is now my current wife, and said:

“Look, there’s a little black spot on the sun today.”

And there’s a pause.

I said:

“That’s my soul up there.”

I was full of hyperbole.

I said that.

I went back in and wrote it down.

Above: Flag of Jamaica

Jamaica is the Caribbean country that comes with its own soundtrack, a singular rhythm beyond its beaches and resorts.

This tiny island has musical roots that reach back to the folk songs of West Africa and forward to the electronic beats of contemporary dance.

Jamaica is a musical powerhouse, which is reflected not only in the bass of the omnipresent sound systems that bombard the island, but in the lyricism of the patois language and the gospel harmonies that rise from the nation’s many churches.

Music is life and life is music in Jamaica.

And only those tone deaf to the rhythm of life fail to be swayed by its beat.

Jamaica is a powerfully beautiful island, a land of crystalline waters flowing over gardens of coral, lapping onto soft sandy beaches, rising past red soil and lush banana groves into sheer mountains.

Waterfalls surprise, appearing out of nowhere, ever present seemingly everywhere.

Jamaica is a great green garden of a land.

Understand the island’s cyclical rhythms that set the pace of Jamaican life and you may then begin to understand Jamaican culture.

You may discover that the country has a rhythm filled with concepts hidden from your understanding, but Jamaica will teach your heart to dance to its pace.

Nature is a language and Jamaica is one of its dialects.

Understanding its language we begin to experience Jamaica.

Climb the peak of Blue Mountain by sunrise, your path lit by the sparks of a myriad of fireflies.

Above: Blue Mountain, Jamaica

Attending a nightclub or a street dance, Kingston nightlife is a sweaty, lively, no-holds-barred event.

Dance, bump and grind, o ye young and young at heart.

Dance till dawn, doze till dusk, do it all again.

Above: Kingston, Jamaica night

Walk the snowy sands of Negril’s Seven Mile Beach.

Wander past the nude sunbathers.

See the sun sink behind the horizon in a fiery ball.

Plunge into the ocean to scrub your soul.

Fend off the hustlers offering redemption.

Dive into the cerulean waters that caress the cliffs.

Above: Negril, Jamaica

Get into reggae, cowboy.

On Jamaica’s east coast, past stretches of jungle and beach that is completely off the radar of most tourists, look to the hills for one of the island’s most beautiful cascades, Reach Falls.

Clamber up slippery rocks, over neon green moss and into cool mountain pools of the freshest spring water.

Dive under tunnels and through blizzards of snow white cascading foam.

Celebrate life.

Above: Reach Falls, Portland, Jamaica

Remember Marley in Bob’s creaky Kingston home crammed with memorabilia.

Above: Bob Marley (1945 – 1981)

These will not move you.

Above: Bob Marley statue, Kingston, Jamaica

Above: Bob Marley House, Kingston, Jamaica

Instead you will be drawn to his untouched bedroom adorned with objects of spiritual significance to the artist, to the small kitchen where he cooked, to the hammock in which he lay to seek inspiration from the distant mountains, to the room riddled with bullet holes where he and his wife almost died in an assassination attempt.

The quiet intimacy and the modest personal effects speak eloquently of Bob Marley’s turbulent life.

Above: Bedroom, Bob Marley House, Kingston, Jamaica

A treasure island needs a Treasure Beach.

Here, instead of huge all-inclusive resorts, you will find quiet, friendly guesthouses, artsy enclaves dreamed up by theatre set designers, Rasta retreats favoured by budget backpackers, and private villas that are some of the classiest, most elegant luxury residences in the country.

Above: Treasure Beach, Jamaica

The sleepy fishing village of Port Royal hints of past glories that made it the pirate capital of the Caribbean and once the “wickedest city on Earth“.

Above: Old Port Royal

Follow in the footsteps of pirate Sir Henry Morgan along the battlements of Fort Charles, still lined with cannons to repel invaders.

Above: Henry Morgan (1635 – 1688)

Above: Fort Charles, Port Royal, Jamaica

Become disoriented inside the Giddy House artillery store, a structure tipped at a jaunty angle.

Above: Giddy House, Port Royal, Jamaica

Admire the treasures in the Maritime Museum, rescued from the deep after 2/3 of the town sank beneath the waves in the monstrous 1692 earthquake.

Above: Port Royal, Jamaica

The resorts of Montego Bay are indeed crowded with people, but wait until you dive into the surrounding waters.

The waters are crowded, but not with bathers.

The sea is alive with a kaleidoscope of multicoloured fish and swaying sponges.

And yet despite all the tropical pastels and cool blue hues, this is a subdued seascape, a silent and delicate marine ecosystem.

Electricity for the eyes and a milestone of memory for those fortunate enough to have come here.

Above: Montego Bay, Jamaica

The best sea walls are to be found at the Point, while more advanced divers should explore the ominous (and gorgeous) Widow Makers Cave.

Above: Widowmakers Cave, Jamaica

Cockpit Country in the island’s interior is some of the most rugged terrain throughout the Caribbean, a series of jungle-clad round hills intersected by powerfully deep and sheer valleys.

Rain gathers in these mountains and water percolates through the rocks, creating an Emmental Swiss cheese of sinkholes and caves.

Above: Cockpit Country, Jamaica

Since most of the trails here are badly overgrown, the best way to appreciate the place is to hike the old Barbecue Bottom Road along its eastern edge or go spelunking in the Printed Circuit Cave.

Above: Barbecue Bottom Road, Cockpit Country, Jamaica

Above: Printed Circuit Cave, Jamaica

Set off by boat in the Black River Great Morass, gliding past spidery mangroves and trees breaded with Spanish moss, whilst white egrets flap overhead.

Local women sell bags of spicy “swimp” (shrimp) on the riverside as they point to a beautiful grinning crocodile cruising by.

Above: Black River Great Morass, Jamaica

The best experiences in Jamaica are extremely sensory affairs, but Boston Bay may be the only one that is more defined by smell than sight or sound.

It may be the birthplace of jerk, the spice rub that is Jamaica’s most famous contribution to the culinary arts.

Above: Jerk chicken

The turnoff to Boston Bay, a lovely beach, is lined with jerk stalls that produce smoked meats that redefine what heat and sweet can do as complementary gastronomic qualities.

Jerk is much like Jamaica:

Freaking amazing.

Above: Boston Bay Beach, Jamaica

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

Above: Happy, Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs

There’s a fossil that’s trapped in a high cliff wall, that’s my soul up there
There’s a dead salmon frozen in a waterfall, that’s my soul up there
There’s a blue whale beached by a springtide’s ebb, that’s my soul up there
There’s a butterfly trapped in a spider’s web, that’s my soul up there
I have stood here before inside the pouring rain
With the world turning circles running ’round my brain
I guess I’m always hoping that you’ll end this reign
But it’s my destiny to be the king of pain

King of Pain” was released as the second single in the US and the fourth single in the UK, taken from the Police‘s 5th and final album, Synchronicity (1983).

The song was released after the eight-week appearance of “Every Breath You Take” on top of the charts. 

Sting‘s fascination with Carl Jung and, to a greater extent, Arthur Koestler inspired him to write the track.

There’s a king on a throne with his eyes torn out
There’s a blind man looking for a shadow of doubt
There’s a rich man sleeping on a golden bed
There’s a skeleton choking on a crust of bread

Carl Gustav Jung (1875 – 1961) was a Swiss psychiatrist and psychoanalyst who founded analytical psychology.

Above: Carl Jung

Jung’s work has been influential in the fields of psychiatry, anthropology, archaeology, literature, philosophy, psychology, and religious studies.

Jung worked as a research scientist at Zürich’s famous Burghölzli Hospital.

Above: Klinik Burghölzli, Zürich, Switzerland

During this time, he came to the attention of Sigmund Freud, the founder of psychoanalysis.

The two men conducted a lengthy correspondence and collaborated, for a while, on a joint vision of human psychology.

Freud saw the younger Jung as the heir he had been seeking to take forward his “new science” of psychoanalysis and to this end secured his appointment as president of his newly founded International Psychoanalytical Association.

Above: Sigmund Freud (1856 – 1939)

Jung’s research and personal vision, however, made it impossible for him to follow his older colleague’s doctrine and a schism became inevitable.

This division was personally painful for Jung and resulted in the establishment of Jung’s analytical psychology as a comprehensive system separate from psychoanalysis.

Among the central concepts of analytical psychology is individuation — the lifelong psychological process of differentiation of the self out of each individual’s conscious and unconscious elements.

Jung considered it to be the main task of human development.

He created some of the best known psychological concepts, including synchronicity, archetypal phenomena, the collective unconscious, the psychological complex, extraversion and introversion.

Jung was also an artist, craftsman, builder and a prolific writer.

Many of his works were not published until after his death and some are still awaiting publication.

Above: Jung outside Burghölzli in 1910

I cannot say that I completely understand or agree with Jungian theory.

Take collective unconsciousness as an example.

According to Jung, whereas an individual’s personal unconscious is made up of thoughts and emotions which have, at some time, been experienced or held in mind, but which have been repressed or forgotten, in contrast, the collective unconscious is neither acquired by activities within an individual’s life, nor a container of things that are thoughts, memories or ideas which are capable of being conscious during one’s life.

The contents of it were never naturally “known” through physical or cognitive experience and then forgotten.

Above: Carl Jung’s Black Book

In more ways than one, these ideas are too deep for me.

According to Jung, the collective unconscious consists of universal heritable elements common to all humans, distinct from other species.

It encapsulates fields of evolutionary biology, history of civilization, ethnology, brain and nervous system development, and general psychological development.

Considering its composition in practical physiological and psychological terms, Jung wrote:

It consists of pre-existent forms, the archetypes, which can only become conscious secondarily and which give definite form to certain psychic contents.”

Jung wrote about causal factors in personal psychology, as stemming from, influenced by an abstraction of the impersonal physical layer, the common and universal physiology among all humans.

Where upon this point my response is at a Homer Simpson level of incomprehension and incredulity.

Above: Homer Simpson, The Simpsons

Jung considers that science would hardly deny the existence and basic nature of ‘instincts‘, existing as a whole set of motivating urges.

The collective unconscious acts as the frame where science can distinguish individual motivating urges, thought to be universal across all individuals of the human species, while instincts are present in all species.

Jung contends:

The hypothesis of the collective unconscious is, therefore, no more daring than to assume there are instincts.”

So, it’s not my fault, blame my instincts?

The archetype is a concept “borrowed” from anthropology to denote a process of nature.

Jung’s definitions of archetypes varied over time and have been the subject of debate as to their usefulness. 

Archetypal images, also referred to as motifs in mythology, are universal symbols that can mediate opposites in the psyche, are often found in religious art, mythology and fairy tales across cultures.

Jung saw archetypes as pre-configurations in nature that give rise to repeating, understandable, describable experiences.

In addition the concept takes into account the passage of time and of patterns resulting from transformation.

Archetypes are said to exist independently of any current event or its effect.

They are said to exert influence both across all domains of experience and throughout the stages of each individual’s unique development.

Being in part based on heritable physiology, they are thought to have “existed” since humans became a differentiated species.

They have been deduced through the development of storytelling over tens of thousands of years, indicating repeating patterns of individual and group experience, behaviours and effects across the planet, apparently displaying common themes.

Our history is a story and the expression of that story determines or results from our psychology?

Above: The Thinker, Auguste Rodin, Paris, France

According to Jung, there are “as many archetypes as there are typical situations in life“. 

He asserted that they have a dynamic mutual influence on one another.

Their alleged presence could be extracted from thousand-year-old narratives, from comparative religion and mythology.

Above: Memories, dreams and reflections, Carl Jung

So, as Leonard Cohen suggests:

Let us compare mythologies?

Above: Leonard Cohen (1934 – 2016)

According to Jung, the shadow exists as part of the unconscious mind and is composed of the traits individuals instinctively or consciously resist identifying as their own and would rather ignore, typically: repressed ideas, weaknesses, desires, instincts and shortcomings.

Above: Psychology of the Unconscious, Carl Jung

I wish I could repress my weaknesses and shortcomings!

Above: Scene from A Knight’s Tale

Much of the shadow comes as a result of an individual’s adaptation to cultural norms and expectations.

Thus, this archetype not only consists of all the things deemed unacceptable by society, but also those that are not aligned with one’s own personal morals and values.

Jung argues that the shadow plays a distinctive role in balancing one’s overall psyche, the counter-balancing to consciousness – “where there is light, there must also be shadow“.

Without a well-developed shadow (often “shadow work“, “integrating one’s shadow“), an individual can become shallow and extremely preoccupied with the opinions of others – that is, a walking persona.

Not wanting to look at their shadows directly, Jung argues, often results in psychological projection.

Individuals project imagined attitudes onto others without awareness.

The qualities an individual may hate (or love) in another, may be manifestly present in the individual, who does not see the external, material truth.

Above: Psychological Types, Carl Jung

Sounds like the old adage:

When I point my finger at you, three fingers of my hand are pointing back at me.

In order to truly grow as an individual, Jung believed that both the persona (the person we project?) and the shadow (who we really are?) should be balanced.

The shadow can appear in dreams or visions, often taking the form of a dark, wild, exotic figure.

The Shadow knows?

Jung was one of the first people to define introversion and extraversion in a psychological context.

In Jung’s Psychological Types, he theorizes that each person falls into one of two categories:

The introvert or the extravert.

The introvert is focused on the internal world of reflection, dreaming and vision.

Thoughtful and insightful, the introvert can sometimes be uninterested in joining the activities of others.

The extravert is interested in joining the activities of the world.

The extravert is focused on the outside world of objects, sensory perception and action.

Energetic and lively, the extravert may lose their sense of self in the intoxication of Dionysian pursuits.

Jungian introversion and extraversion is quite different from the modern idea of introversion and extraversion.

Modern theories often stay true to behaviourist means of describing such a trait (sociability, talkativeness, assertiveness, etc.), whereas Jungian introversion and extraversion are expressed as a perspective:

Introverts interpret the world subjectively, whereas extraverts interpret the world objectively.

By both the modern as well as the Jungian definition, I cannot decide whether I am an extraverted introvert or an introverted extravert.

In Jung’s psychological theory, the persona appears as a consciously created personality or identity, fashioned out of part of the collective psyche through socialization, acculturation and experience.

Jung applied the term persona, explicitly because, in Latin, it means both personality and the masks worn by Roman actors of the classical period, expressive of the individual roles played.

The persona, he argues, is a mask for the “collective psyche“, a mask that ‘pretends‘ individuality, so that both self and others believe in that identity, even if it is really no more than a well-played role through which the collective psyche is expressed.

Jung regarded the “persona-mask” as a complicated system which mediates between individual consciousness and the social community:

It is “a compromise between the individual and society as to what a man should appear to be“. 

But he also makes it quite explicit that it is, in substance, a character mask in the classical sense known to theatre, with its double function:

Both intended to make a certain impression on others and to hide (part of) the true nature of the individual.

The therapist then aims to assist the individuation process through which the client (re)gains their “own self” – by liberating the self, both from the deceptive cover of the persona, and from the power of unconscious impulses.

Jung has become enormously influential in management theory:

Not just because managers and executives have to create an appropriate “management persona” (a corporate mask) and a persuasive identity, but also because they have to evaluate what sort of people the workers are, to manage them (for example, using personality tests and peer reviews).

Above: Cover art, “Who are you?“, The Who

Jung’s work on himself and his patients convinced him that life has a spiritual purpose beyond material goals.

Our main task, he believed, is to discover and fulfill our deep, innate potential.

Based on his study of Christianity, Hinduism, Buddhism, Gnosticism, Taoism, and other traditions, Jung believed that this journey of transformation, which he called individuation, is at the mystical heart of all religions.

It is a journey to meet the self and at the same time to meet the Divine.

He believed that spiritual experience was essential to our well-being, as he specifically identified individual human life with the universe as a whole.

Above: Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

In 1959, Jung was asked by host John Freeman on the BBC interview program Face to Face whether he believed in God, to which Jung answered:

I do not need to believe.

I know.

Jung’s idea of religion as a practical road to individuation is still treated in modern textbooks on the psychology of religion, though his ideas have also been criticized.

Above: Carl Jung (left) and John Freeman (right), 1959

Jung had an apparent interest in the paranormal and occult. 

Jung’s ideas about the paranormal culminated in “synchronicity” – the idea that certain coincidences manifest in the world and have exceptionally intense meaning to observers.

Such coincidences have great effect on the observer from multiple cumulative aspects:

  • from the immediate personal relevance of the coincidence to the observer
  • from the peculiarities of (the nature of, the character, novelty, curiosity of) any such coincidence
  • from the sheer improbability of the coincidence, having no apparent causal link

Despite his own experiments he failed to confirm the phenomenon.

Jung proposed that art can be used to alleviate or contain feelings of trauma, fear, or anxiety and also to repair, restore and heal.

In his work with patients and his own personal explorations, Jung wrote that art expression and images found in dreams could help recover from trauma and emotional distress.

At times of emotional distress, he often drew, painted, or made objects and constructions which he recognized as more than recreational.

Above: An art therapist watches over a person with mental health problems during an art therapy workshop in Dakar, Senegal

Jung stressed the importance of individual rights in a person’s relation to the state and society.

He saw that the state was treated as “a quasi-animate personality from whom everything is expected” but that this personality was “only camouflage for those individuals who know how to manipulate it”, and referred to the state as a form of slavery.

He also thought that the state “swallowed up people’s religious forces“, and therefore that the state had “taken the place of God“— making it comparable to a religion in which “state slavery is a form of worship“.

Jung observed that “stage acts of the state” are comparable to religious displays:

Brass bands, flags, banners, parades and monster demonstrations are no different in principle from ecclesiastical processions, cannonades and fire to scare off demons.

Above: Nuremburg Rally, 5 – 10 September 1934

From Jung’s perspective, this replacement of God with the state in a mass society leads to the dislocation of the religious drive and results in the same fanaticism of the church-states of the Dark Ages — wherein the more the state is ‘worshipped‘, the more freedom and morality are suppressed.

This ultimately leaves the individual psychically undeveloped with extreme feelings of marginalization.

In the 1936 essayWotan, Jung described the influence of Adolf Hitler on Germany as “one man who is obviously ‘possessed’ has infected a whole nation to such an extent that everything is set in motion and has started rolling on its course towards perdition.

He would later say, during a lengthy interview with H.R. Knickerbocker in October 1938:

Hitler seemed like the ‘double’ of a real person, as if Hitler the man might be hiding inside like an appendix, and deliberately so concealed in order not to disturb the mechanism.

You know you could never talk to this man.

Because there is nobody there.

It is not an individual.

It is an entire nation.

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

There’s a red fox torn by a huntsman’s pack
(That’s my soul up there)
There’s a black-winged gull with a broken back
(That’s my soul up there)
There’s a little black spot on the sun today
It’s the same old thing as yesterday

Arthur Koestler (1905 – 1983) was a Hungarian British Jewish author and journalist.

Above: Arthur Koestler

Koestler was born in Budapest and, apart from his early school years, was educated in Austria.

In 1931, Koestler joined the Communist Party of Germany, but he resigned in 1938 because Stalinism disillusioned him.

Above: Symbol of the German Communist Party

Having moved to Britain in 1940, he published his novel Darkness at Noon, an anti-totalitarian work that gained him international fame.

Over the next 43 years, Koestler espoused many political causes and wrote novels, memoirs, biographies, and numerous essays.

In 1949, Koestler began secretly working with a British Cold War anti-communist propaganda department known as the Information Research Department (IRD), which would republish and distribute many of his works, and also fund his activities.

Above: Carlton House Terrace, London, England – the original home of the Information Research Department’s propaganda activities, it was the location of the German Embassy until 1945

In 1968, he was awarded the Sonning Prize “for his outstanding contribution to European culture“.

In 1972, he was made a Commander of the Order of the British Empire (CBE).

Above: CBE medal

In 1976, he was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease and in 1979 with terminal leukaemia.

On 1 March 1983, Koestler and his wife Cynthia jointly committed suicide at their London home by swallowing lethal quantities of barbiturate-based Tuinal capsules.

Above: Arthur Koestler (1905 – 1983)

As a Hungarian-born novelist who resided in England, Koestler was enthralled with parapsychology and the unexplained workings of the mind.

(He wrote the book titled The Ghost in the Machine in the late ’60s, after which the Police named their 4th album).

I’ve stood here before inside the pouring rain
With the world turning circles running ’round my brain
I guess I’m always hoping that you’ll end this reign
But it’s my destiny to be the king of pain

A music video of King of Pain was made but only released in Australia.

Above: Clip from the video of King of Pain

The lyrics in King of Pain paint exactly the kind of bleak and hopeless picture of the world that someone in the midst of a depressive episode would experience.

The imagery Sting creates relates not just to the suffering of the living, but to a kind of randomness in the world that affects all things.

Beyond the fox, the gull, the whale, the living things, there is also a hat in a tree and a rag on a flagpole, not to mention the sunspots themselves.

All of these, together, suggest a kind of negative naturalistic view of the world (and the universe), a view where things “just happen” and traits “just are“, all of it out of anyone’s control.

In this world view, pain and suffering and death are simply part of a meaningless lottery.

Sting is saying, in a nutshell:

If nature can be so random and so indifferent, then why in the world should we expect nature to be any more kind to us?

We are no more entitled than the whale, the fox or the butterfly.

Like any chaotic system, sunspots are paradoxically both random and predictable.

Each spot (“soul“) is random as to where specifically it appears and the course of its “life“.

Still, when they’re viewed collectively, sunspots are cyclical, following an 11-year pattern.

Basically, King of Pain is a guy saying how depressed he is, but it is a surprisingly beautiful song if you really listen.

It’s about a man saying he is destined to always be hurting, that the pain will never go away no matter what he does or where he goes.

He is asking for someone to help him, but ultimately knows they can’t.

This is a song about depression.

The black spot on the sun is a day (or a life) that starts out good, but is destined to tank.

And this has happened often.

History repeats itself.

It’s the same old thing as yesterday.

The rain is pouring, the wind won’t stop, the world is doing circles —

Life sucks.

The end of the reign refers to a desire for all this to stop and the destiny is his doubt that it will.

King of pain
King of pain
King of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain

And yet, somehow, somewhere, there is beauty in the dissonance.

And it is this beauty in the dissonance that reminds me once again of St. Gallen.

Above: Bird’s eye view of St. Gallen, Switzerland

Gustav Adolf (1778 – 1837), former king of Sweden (1792 – 1809), spent the last years of his life in St. Gallen and died there in 1837.

In October 1833 he went to Weisses Rössli (“The White Horse“), an inn in St. Gallen.

He decided to spend the rest of his life in quiet resignation with Rössli landlord Samuel Naf in St. Gallen.

A man born in a palace, living his last years in an inn “by no means of the first order”.

There is no monument to remind us of him.

No street is named after him.

No city tour deals with him.

He is only mentioned by two measly building plaques.

One is located on the busy arterial road to Basel’s St. Johann suburb.

The other is practically invisible above a shop window in St. Gallen’s Old Town.

This King hardly left any traces of himself.

Above: Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden

Gustav Adolf was born in Stockholm, the son of King Gustav III of Sweden and Queen Sophia Magdalena of Denmark.

Above: Sophia Magdalena of Denmark (1746 – 1813)

Early on, malicious rumors arose that Gustav III would not have been the father of the child but the nobleman, Adolf Fredik Munck, from the eastern half of Finland. 

He had been helpful in the royal couple’s sexual debut. 

Although the royal couple showed all signs of a happy marriage at the time of the Queen’s first pregnancy, the rumour was passed on, even by Gustav III’s brother Duke Karl and by him to the brothers’ mother Louise, which led to a break between the King and her, which was not addressed until Louise’s deathbed. 

The rumour was so entrenched that it was in the Swedish nobility’s Ättar paintings under Count Munck af Fulkila that he is believed to have been secretly married to Queen Sophia Magdalena, and “is presumed to be the father of Gustaf IV Adolf”

The King was nevertheless deeply involved in the upbringing of his eldest son. 

Above: Adolf Fredrik Munck (1749 – 1831)

Stockholm is the capital and largest city of Sweden as well as the largest urban area in Scandinavia.

Approximately 980,000 people live in the municipality, with 1.6 million in the urban area, and 2.4 million in the metropolitan area.

The city stretches across 14 islands where Lake Mälaren flows into the Baltic Sea.

Outside the city to the east, and along the coast, is the island chain of the Stockholm Archipelago, with some 24,000 islands, islets and skerries.

Over 30% of the city area is made up of waterways, and another 30% is made up of green areas.

The air and water here are said to be the freshest of any European capital.

Above: Stockholm, Sweden

The area has been settled since the Stone Age, in the 6th millennium BCE.

It was founded as a city in 1252 by Swedish statesman Birger Jarl.

It is also the county seat of Stockholm County and for several hundred years was also the capital of Finland which then was a part of Sweden.

Above: Flag of Stockholm

Stockholm is the cultural, media, political and economic centre of Sweden.

The Stockholm region alone accounts for over a third of the country’s GDP. 

It is among the top 10 regions in Europe by GDP per capita.

Above: Stockholm City Hall

Ranked as an alpha-global city, it is the largest in Scandinavia and the main centre for corporate headquarters in the Nordic region.

Above: Kista Science Tower, Stockholm – This is the tallest office building in Scandinavia.

As of the 21st century, Stockholm struggles to become a world leading city in sustainable engineering, including waste management, clean air and water, carbon-free public transportation, and energy efficiency.

Lake water is safe for bathing, and in practice for drinking (though not recommended).

Above: Kastellet Citadel, Kastellholmen, Stockholm

The city is home to some of Europe’s top ranking universities, such as the Stockholm School of Economics, Karolinska Institute, the KTH Royal Institute of Technology and Stockholm University.

Stockholm hosts the annual Nobel Prize ceremonies and banquet at the Stockholm Concert Hall and Stockholm City Hall.

Above: Nobel Prize medal

Untouched by wars for a long time, Stockholm has some great old architecture to see.

The exception would be Norrmalm, where much was demolished in the 1950s and 1960s to give place to what was then more modern buildings.

Looking at it the other way around, if interested in this kind of architecture this is the place to go.

Above: Hamngatan, a street in Norrmalm, Stockholm

Stockholm’s Old Town (Gamla Stan) is the beautifully preserved historical centre, best covered on foot, dominated by the Stockholm Palace (Stockholms slott).

Above: Stockholm Palace

Other highlights include: 

  • Storkyrkan, the cathedral of Stockholm, which has been used for many royal coronations, weddings and funerals

Above: The Royal Cathedral, Stockholm

  • Riddarholmskyrkan, a beautifully preserved medieval church, which hosts the tombs of many Swedish kings and royals, surrounded by former mansions.

Above: Riddarholmen Church, Stockholm, Sweden

Stockholm has several interesting churches, from medieval times to the 20th century.

Most of them are in active use by the Church of Sweden.

Above: Coat of arms of the Church of Sweden

There is also a synagogue in Östermalm and a mosque on Södermalm.

Above: The Great Synagogue, Stockholm

Above: Stockholm Mosque

The woodland cemetery, Skogskyrkogården, in Söderort is one of few UNESCO World Heritage sites from the 20th century.

Above: Skogskyrkogården, Stockholm

Also in southern Stockholm is the Ericsson Globe (Söderort), a white spherical building used for hockey games and as a concert venue.

Occasionally, at least at game nights, it is lit by coloured light.

The Globe is the heart of the Sweden Solar System, the world’s largest scale model of any kind.

With the Globe as the Sun, models of the planets are displayed at Slussen (Mercury), the Royal Institute of Technology (Venus), the Natural History Museum (Earth and Moon), Mörby Centrum (Mars), Arlanda Airport (Jupiter) and Uppsala (Saturn).

Above: The Ericson Globe, Stockholm

Stockholm has more than 70 museums, ranging from those large in size and scope to the very specialized, including the Butterfly Museum, the Spirits Museum, and the Dance Museum, to name but a few.

Above: The Museum of Spirits, Stockholm

Above: Dance Museum, Stockholm

As of 2016, many of them have free entrance.

A brief selection:

  • The Natural History Museum has extensive exhibits for all ages, including an Omnimax cinema. 

Above: Natural History Museum, Stockholm

  • The Army Museum displays Sweden’s military history, with its frequent wars from the Middle Ages until 1814, then followed by two centuries of peace.

Above: Army Museum, Stockholm

  • The Swedish History Museum features an exhibition on Vikings.

Above: Swedish History Museum, Stockholm

  • The Museum of Modern Art

Above: Museum of Modern Art, Stockholm

  • The Vasa Museum displays the Vasa, a 17th-century warship that sunk in Stockholm Harbour on its maiden voyage, and authentic objects from the height of the Swedish Empire. One of the city’s most prized museums, the Vasa Museum, is the most visited non-art museum in Scandinavia.

Above: Vasa Museum, Stockholm

Above: Vasa Museum logo

  • Skansen is an open-air museum containing a zoo featuring Swedish fauna, as well as displays of Sweden’s cultural heritage in reconstructed buildings. 

Above: Skansen Open Air Museum, Stockholm

  • Nordiska Museet displays Swedish history and cultural heritage.

Above: Nordiska Museet, Stockholm

  • The Swedish Music Hall of Fame features the ABBA Museum.

Above: Benny Andersson, Anni-Frid Lyngstad (Frida), Agnetha Fältskog, and Björn Ulvaeus (ABBA)

  • Lidingö is an open-air sculpture museum.

Above: Lindingö, Stockholm

  • Fotografiska Södermalm is a photo gallery opened in 2010.

Above: Swedish Museum of Photography, Stockholm

  • For the real Viking buff, there is Birka, the site of a former Viking city.

Above: The Viking village of Birka, Stockholm

Beyond the art museums mentioned above, Stockholm has a vivid art scene with many art galleries, exhibition halls and public art installation.

Some of the galleries are:

  • Galleri Magnus Karlsson 

  • Lars Bohman Gallery

  • Galerie Nordenhake

  • Magasin 3

The Royal Institute of Art and the University College of Arts, Crafts and Design hold regular exhibitions.

Above: The Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Stockholm

The Stockholm Metro, opened in 1950, is well known for the décor of its stations.

It has been called the longest art gallery in the world.

Some stations worth to mention are:

  • the moody dark blue cave of Kungsträdgården

Above: Kungsträdgården Metro Station

  • the giant black and white “drawings” by Siri Derkert at Östermalmstorg

Above: Östermalmstorg Metro Station

  • the celebration of science and technology at Tekniska Högskolan 

Above: Tekniska Högskolan Metro Station

  • Rissne has a fascinating timeline of human history on its walls.

Above: Rissne Metro Station

A written description in English to the art in the Stockholm Metro can be downloaded for free.

Above: Stockholm Metro logo

Sweden’s national football arena is located north of the city centre, in Solna. 

Above: Friends Arena, Stockholm

Avicii Arena, the national indoor arena, is in the southern part of the city.

Above: Avicii Arena (Ericsson Globe), Stockholm

The city was the host of the 1912 Summer Olympics.

Stockholm is the seat of the Swedish government and most of its agencies, including the highest courts in the judiciary, and the official residencies of the Swedish monarch and the Prime Minister.

Above: Flag of Sweden

The government has its seat in the Rosenbad building, the Riksdag (Swedish parliament) is seated in the Parliament House.

Above: Rosenbad Building, Stockholm

The Prime Minister’s Residence is adjacent at Sager House.

Above: Swedish Prime Minister Magdalena Andersson

Above: Sager House, Stockholm

Stockholm Palace is the official residence and principal workplace of the Swedish monarch, while Drottningholm Palace, a World Heritage Site on the outskirts of Stockholm, serves as the Royal Family’s private residence.

Above: King Carl XVI Gustav of Sweden

Above: Aerial view of Stockholm Palace

Above: Drottningholm Palace, Stockholm

Stockholm is the hub of most Swedish rail and bus traffic and has two of the country’s busiest airports nearby, so it is a good starting point for visiting other parts of Sweden.

Above: Swedish National Railways logo

Above: Stockholm Central Station

Above: Bus travel in Sweden

Above: Stockholm Arlanda Airport

Stockholm has been the setting of many books and films, including some of Astrid Lindgren’s works and Nordic Noir works, such as Stieg Larsson’s Millennium.

Above: Astrid Lindgren (1907 – 2002)

Above: Cover of Pippi Långstrump Går Ombord (Pippi Longstocking Goes On Board), 1946

Above: Stieg Larsson (1954 – 2004)

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

Above: A screenshot of the 1969 television series, showing Inger Nilsson as Pippi Longstocking

In 1792, King Gustav III was mortally wounded by a gunshot in the lower back during a masquerade ball as part of an aristocratic-parliamentary coup attempt, but managed to assume command and quell the uprising before succumbing to spesis 13 days later, a period during which he received apologies from many of his political enemies.

At the age of 13, Gustav Adolf went through the murder of his father, a trauma that left deep traces. 

Some have suggested that this also affected his life.

Above: Gustav III of Sweden (1746 – 1792)

Upon Gustav III’s assassination in March 1792, Gustav Adolf succeeded to the throne at the age of 14, under the regency of his uncle, Charles, Duke of Södermanland, who was later to become King Charles XIII of Sweden when his nephew was forced to abdicate and was banished from the country in 1809.

Above: King Charles XIII of Sweden (1748 – 1818)

In August 1796, his uncle the regent arranged for the young King to visit St. Petersburg.

Above: The Winter Palace, St. Petersburg, Russia

The intention was to arrange a marriage between the young King and the Grand Duchess Alexandra Pavlovna, a granddaughter of Russian Empress Catherine the Great.

Above: Grand Duchess Alexandra Pavlovna of Russia (1783 – 1801)

However, the whole arrangement foundered on Gustav’s unwavering refusal to allow his intended bride liberty of worship according to the rites of the Russian Orthodox Church.

Above: Cross of the Russian Orthodox Church

Nobody seems to have suspected the possibility at the time that emotional problems might lie at the root of Gustav’s abnormal piety.

On the contrary, when he came of age that year, thereby ending the regency, there were many who prematurely congratulated themselves on the fact that Sweden had now no disturbing genius, but an economical, God-fearing, commonplace monarch.

Gustav Adolf’s prompt dismissal of the generally detested Gustaf Adolf Reuterholm, the duke-regent’s leading advisor, added still further to his popularity.

Above: Gustaf Adolf Reuterholm (1756 – 1813)

On 31 October 1797 Gustav married Frederica Dorothea, granddaughter of Karl Friedrich, Margrave of Baden, a marriage which seemed to threaten war with Russia but for the fanatical hatred of the French Republic shared by the Russian Emperor Paul and Gustav IV Adolf, which served as a bond between them.

Above: Queen Frederica of Sweden (1781 – 1826)

Above: Russian Emperor Paul I (1754 – 1801)

Indeed, the King’s horror of Jacobinism (ardent or republican support of a centralized and revolutionary democracy or state) was intense, and drove him to become increasingly committed to the survival of Europe, to the point where he postponed his coronation for some years, so as to avoid calling together a Diet.

Nonetheless, the disorder of the state finances, largely inherited from Gustav III’s war against Russia, as well as widespread crop failures in 1798 and 1799, compelled him to summon the Estates to Norrköping in March 1800 and on 3 April the same year.

When the King encountered serious opposition at the Riksdag, he resolved never to call another.

Above: The Museum of Work, Strykjärnet (Clothes Iron) Building, Motala River, Norrköping, Sweden

His reign was ill-fated and was to end abruptly.

In 1803, England declared war on France. 

Behind this declaration of war was that England did not want to be challenged as the dominant colonial power.

As it was impossible for England to defeat France alone, allies were needed. 

Many countries were reluctant to enter into a Coalition against Napoleon, but the decisive factor was that in May 1805 Napoleon was crowned King of Italy. 

Above: Emperor Napoleon I of France (1769 – 1821)

Russia had already in April 1805 common cause with the British.

In August of the same year Austria and Sweden joined the Coalition.

Contributing to Sweden joining the Coalition was the assassination of Duke Louis Antoine Henri de Bourbon, which took place after France violated the territory of neutral Baden.

This assassination upset the whole of Europe and intensified Gustav’s hatred of Napoleon, but the decision for Sweden to go to war was not only based on emotions. 

Above: Duke of Énghien, Louis-Antoine de Bourbon-Condé (1772 – 1804) –  More famous for his death than for his life, he was executed on charges of aiding Britain and plotting against France, shocking royalty across Europe.

Early in 1804, Napoleon Bonaparte, then First Consul of France, heard news which seemed to connect the young Duke with the Cadoudal Affair, a conspiracy which was being tracked by the French police at the time.

It involved royalists Jean-Charles Pichegru and Georges Cadoudal who wished to overthrow Bonaparte’s regime and reinstate the monarchy.

Above: General Charles Pichegru (1761 – 1804)

Above: Georges Cadoudal Coutan (1771 – 1804)

The news ran that the Duke was in company with Charles François Dumouriez and had made secret journeys into France.

Above: General Charles François du Périer Dumouriez (1739 – 1823)

This was false.

There is no evidence that the Duke had dealings with either Cadoudal or Pichegru.

However, the Duke had previously been condemned in absentia for having fought against the French Republic in the Armée des Émigrés (counter-revolutionary armies raised outside France by and out of royalist émigrés, with the aim of overthrowing the French Revolution, reconquering France and restoring the monarchy.

Above: Troops of the Armées des émigrés at the Battle of Quiberon, 23 June – 21 July 1795

Napoleon gave orders for the seizure of the Duke.

French dragoons crossed the Rhine secretly, surrounded his house and brought him to Strasbourg (15 March 1804), and thence to the Château de Vincennes, near Paris, where a military commission of French colonels presided over by General Hulin was hastily convened to try him.

Above: Château de Vincennes, France

The Duke was charged chiefly with bearing arms against France in the late war, and with intending to take part in the new Coalition then proposed against France.

The military commission, presided over by General Hulin, drew up the act of condemnation, being incited thereto by orders from Anne Jean Marie René Savary, who had come charged with instructions to kill the Duke.

Above: General Pierre Augustin Hulin (1758 – 1841)

Above: Anne Jean Marie René Savary, 1st Duke of Rovigo (1774 – 1833)







Savary prevented any chance of an interview between the condemned and the First Consul.

On 21 March, the Duke was shot in the moat of the castle, near a grave which had already been prepared.
A platoon of the Gendarmes d’élite was in charge of the execution.

The Duke’s last words were:

I must die then at the hands of Frenchmen!





Above; The execution of the Duke of Énghien






In 1816, his remains were exhumed and placed in the Holy Chapel of the Château de Vincennes.

Royalty across Europe were shocked and dismayed at the duke’s death.

Tsar Alexander I of Russia was especially alarmed.

He decided to curb Napoleon’s power. 

Baden was the territory of the Tsar’s father-in-law, and the German principalities were part of the Holy Roman Empire of which Russia was a guarantor.







Above: Russian Tsar Alexander I (1777 – 1825)






 

Enghien was the last descendant of the House of Condé.

His grandfather and father survived him, but died without producing further heirs.

It is now known that Joséphine (Napoleon’s wife) and Madame de Rémusat had begged Bonaparte to spare the Duke, but nothing would bend his will.

Above: Joséphine de Beauharnais (1763 – 1814)

Above: Claire Élisabeth Jeanne Gravier de Vergennes, comtesse de Rémusat (1780 – 1821)

Whether Talleyrand, Fouché or Savary bore responsibility for the seizure of the Duke is debatable, as at times Napoleon was known to claim Talleyrand conceived the idea, while at other times he took full responsibility himself.

Above: Diplomat Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord (1754 – 1838)

Above: Joseph Fouché, 1st Duc d’Otrante, 1st Comte Fouché (1759 – 1820)

On his way to St. Helena and at Longwood, Napoleon asserted that, in the same circumstances, he would do the same again.

Above: Location of St. Helena

Above: Longwood House, Longwood, St. Helena

He inserted a similar declaration in his will, stating that:

It was necessary for the safety, interest, and the honour of the French people as when the Comte d’Artois, by his own confession, was supporting sixty assassins at Paris.

Above: King Charles X of France, Count of Artois (1757 – 1836)

The execution shocked the aristocracy of Europe, who still remembered the bloodletting of the Revolution.

Above: Nine émigrés executed by guillotine, 1793

Either Antoine Boulay, comte de la Meurthe (deputy from Meurthein the Corps législatif) or Napoleon’s chief of police, Fouché, said about the Duke’s execution: 

C’est pire qu’un crime, c’est une faute.”, a statement often rendered in English as:

It was worse than a crime.

It was a blunder.”

The statement is also sometimes attributed to Talleyrand.

Above: Sketch of Antoine Jacques Claude Joseph, comte Boulay de la Meurthe (1761 – 1840)

In contrast, in France the execution appeared to quiet domestic resistance to Napoleon, who soon crowned himself Emperor of the French. 

Cadoudal, dismayed at the news of Napoleon’s proclamation, reputedly exclaimed:

We wanted to make a King, but we made an Emperor.”

Above: The coronation of Napoleon I, 2 December 1804

From the beginning, Sweden was part of a seemingly strong alliance, which could have good opportunities to beat Napoleon. 

In August 1805 it was not possible to predict the Russian-Austrian loss at the Battle of Austerlitz in December 1805, the collapse of Prussia at the Battle of Jena-Auerstedt in October 1806, and the loss of the Russians in the Battle of Eylau in February 1807.

Above: Battle of Austerlitz, Austria, 2 December 1805

Above: Battle of Jena-Auerstedt, Germany, 14 October 1806

Above: Battle of Eylau, Russia, 7 – 8 February 1807

These setbacks totally changed Sweden’s chances of success.

Gustav IV Adolf’s policies and stubbornness at the time of Napoleon’s march through Europe diminished confidence in him as regent, which affected him less because he was convinced of the validity of his divine right to rule.

Above: Gustav IV Adolf’s personal coat-of-arms

Gustav IV Adolf’s personal aversion to the French Revolution and Napoleon, and his unrealistic view of Sweden’s military force led Sweden to declare war on France (Swedish-French War: 1805 – 1810). 

Contributing to the War was that Sweden was dependent on trade with Great Britain, and therefore opposed the Continental Blockade against Great Britain. 

In 1805, he joined the Third Coalition against Napoléon.

The war was fought largely on German soil. 

The starting point for the Swedish troop movements was Swedish Pomerania. 

Above: Swedish Pomerania (orange) within the Swedish Empire (green)

At the beginning of November 1805, there was an army consisting of just over 12,000 Swedes and Russians standing in Swedish Pomerania. 

The plan was to move to Hanover via the fortress Hameln, which was in French hands, where the English were on site. 

Above: Modern Hannover, Germany

The plan was delayed by Prussia’s hesitation. 

When the plan could finally be put into action, Napoleon had won his great victory at Austerlitz. 

After this, Prussia entered into a treaty with Napoleon, which meant that Swedes, Russians and Englishmen now had to leave Prussia. 

The Swedes reluctantly withdrew to Swedish Pomerania.

During the summer of 1806, Prussia changed sides in the war. 

Above: Flag of the Kingdom of Prussia (1701 – 1918)

The Swedes were now allowed to occupy Saxony-Lauenburg, but in the autumn of the same year the French reaped new successes, and Prussia and the rest of Germany were flooded by French troops. 

The Swedes were now forced to retreat to Lübeck. 

Above: Modern Lübeck, Germany

The plan was to be able to retreat from there by sea to Stralsund in Swedish Pomerania. 

Above: Modern Stralsund, Germany

However, the Swedes were surprised by the French during the preparations for sea transport.

On 6 November,1,000 Swedish soldiers had to capitulate. 

Most had already packed their rifles! 

This “battle” is called the Surprise in Lübeck.

Above: Battle of Lübeck, 7 November 1806

At the beginning of 1807, the French began a siege of Stralsund. 

As the French were also engaged in warfare elsewhere, their numbers steadily declined. 

The Swedes therefore decided to launch an offensive to lift the siege. 

The capture of Stralsund was successfully implemented on 1 April, which led to the Swedes being able to occupy the surrounding landscape, including Usedom and Wolin.

Above: Siege of Straslund, 24 July – 24 August 1807












Above: Map of Wolin, Poland






However, the French chose to attack again.
 
A 13,000-strong army, based in Szczecin, attacked the Swedes on 16 April. 




Above: Modern Szczecin, Poland




The left wing of the Swedish army had to withdraw, and another division in Ueckermünde was cut off. 

On 17 April, the cut-off force tried to get out of there by sea, but was attacked under the cargo of ships. 

The Battle of Ueckermünde ended with the capture of 677 men.

Above: Modern Ueckermünde, Germany

Gustav IV Adolf did not give up hope. 

He managed, with Russia’s help, to gather a force of 17,500 men, partly sub-standardly trained. 

Against these stood the French army of 40,000 men. 

Above: King Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden

On 13 June 1807, the Swedish army began to move, but in early July, Russia and Prussia made peace with France. 

The Swedish force was therefore forced to withdraw to Stralsund, after which they quickly retreated to Rügen. 

Above: Map of Rügen, Germany

Above: Cape Arkona, Rügen, Germany

The French command finally agreed to give the Swedes free exit. 

The French then ruled Sweden in Pomerania.

At the Peace of Paris, Sweden regained Swedish Pomerania, but it was still forced to join the Continental System, which meant that Sweden was not allowed to buy British goods. 

Above: French Empire (dark green), client states (light green), Continental System/Blockade (blue), 1812

When his ally, Russia, made peace and concluded an alliance with France at Tilsit in 1807, Sweden and Portugal were left as Great Britain’s sole European allies.

Above: Meeting of Russian Emperor Alexander I and French Emperor Napoleon I in a pavilion set up on a raft in the middle of the Neman River, Tilsit, Russia, 25 June 1807

On 21 February 1808, Russia invaded Finland, which was ruled by Sweden, on the pretext of compelling Sweden to join Napoléon’s Continental System. 

Denmark likewise declared war on Sweden. 

In just a few months almost all of Finland was lost to Russia.

Above: Notable locations of the Finnish War (21 February 1808 to 17 September 1809) fought between Sweden and Russia

As a result of the war, on 17 September 1809, in the Treaty of Hamina, Sweden surrendered the eastern third of Sweden to Russia.

The autonomous Grand Duchy of Finland within Imperial Russia was established.

By the time the peace treaties were signed, however, the King had already been deposed.

Dissatisfaction with the King had grown for several years and now his opponents took action. 

Gustav Adolf’s inept and erratic leadership in diplomacy and war precipitated his deposition through a conspiracy of army officers.

An uprising broke out in Värmland (a county north of Stockholm) where Lieutenant Colonel Georg Adlersparre on 7 March 1809 took command of the Northern Army, and triggered the Coup of 1809 by raising the flag of rebellion in Karlstad and starting to march upon Stockholm.  

Above: Georg Adlersparre (1760 – 1835)

When this news reached Stockholm, Gustav Adolf decided to leave the capital and take command of the southern army, in order to then be able to strike at the rebels. 

The coup plotters, some of whom were in Stockholm, realized that they needed to strike quickly and prevent the King from travelling. 

On 13 March, Carl Johan Adlercreutz and six other officers marched up to the Castle and declared that:

The whole nation is astonished at the unfortunate position of the Kingdom and the King’s promised departure and is determined to turn it down.

Above: Carl Johan Adlercreutz (1757 – 1815)

To prevent the King from joining loyal troops in Scania (southernmost Sweden), seven of the conspirators led by Adlercreutz broke into the royal apartments in the Palace and seized the King.

Above: The arrest of King Gustav IV Adolf, 13 March 1809

They imprisoned him and his family in Gripsholm Castle.

Above: Gripsholm Castle, Mariefred, Sweden

On 12 March 1809, King Gustav IV Adolf left Queen Frederica and their children at Haga Palace to deal with the rebellion of Georg Adlersparre.

Above: Haga Castle, Stockholm

The day after he was captured at the Royal Palace in Stockholm, imprisoned at Gripsholm Castle and deposed in favour of his uncle, who succeeded him as Charles XIII of Sweden on 6 June.

According to the terms of the deposition made on 10 May 1809, Frederica was allowed to keep the title of Queen even after the deposition of her spouse.

Frederica and her children were kept under guard at Haga Palace.

The royal couple was initially kept separated because the coup leaders suspected her of planning a coup.

During her house arrest, her dignified behavior reportedly earned her more sympathy than she had been given her entire tenure as Queen.

Her successor, Queen Charlotte, who felt sympathy for her and often visited her, and wished to preserve the right to the throne for Frederica’s son, Gustav.

Frederica told her that she was willing to separate from her son for the sake of succession, and requested to be reunited with her spouse.

Her second request was granted her after intervention from Queen Charlotte.

Above: Queen Charlotte of Sweden and Norway (1759 – 1818)

Frederica and her children joined Gustav Adolf at Gripsholm Castle after the coronation of the new monarch on 6 June.

The relationship between the former King and Queen was reportedly well during their house arrest at Gripsholm.

During her house arrest at Gripsholm Castle, the question of her son Crown Prince Gustav’s right to the throne was not yet settled and a matter of debate.

Above: Prince Gustav of Vasa (1799 – 1877)

There was a plan by a military faction led by General Eberhard von Vegesack to free Frederica and her children from the arrest, have her son declared monarch and Frederica as regent of Sweden during his minority.

These plans were in fact presented to her, but she declined:

The Queen displayed a nobility in her feelings, which makes her worthy of a crown of honor and placed her above the pitiful earthly royalty.

She did not listen to the secret proposals, made to her by a party, who wished to preserve the succession of the Crown Prince and wished, that she would remain in Sweden to become the regent during the minority of her son.

She explained with firmness, that her duty as a wife and mother told her to share the exile with her husband and children.

Above: Eberhard von Vegesack (1763 – 1818)

The King’s uncle, Duke Charles (Karl), later King Charles XIII, was thereupon persuaded to accept the leadership of a provisional government, which was proclaimed the same day.

A Diet, hastily summoned, solemnly approved of the revolution.

On 29 March, Gustav IV Adolf, to save the Crown for his son, voluntarily abdicated, but on 10 May the Riksdag of the Estates, dominated by the Army, declared that not merely Gustav but his whole family had forfeited the throne, perhaps an excuse to exclude his family from succession based on the rumours of his illegitimacy.

A more likely cause, however, is that the revolutionaries feared that Gustav’s son, if he inherited the throne, would avenge his father’s deposition when he came of age.

Above: Prince Gustav Vasa of Sweden

In the writing of history, the image of Gustav IV Adolf and his government was long drawn by the men of 1809 and their successors. 

They portrayed Gustav IV Adolf as an untalented and emotionally tense person whose policy was dictated by temporary and emotional factors that occasionally took on purely mind-boggling expressions, medals awarded by Gustaf IV Adolf were recalled and replaced with new ones without his name and signs, emblems, memorials and the like. which bore his name was removed. 

This is one of the few cases in Sweden where the state and its authorities have made an attempt at damnatio memoriae to erase the memory of someone.

Above: An example of damnatio memoriae, Roman Emperor Septimius Severus (145 – 211) and his family with the face of his son Geta (189 – 211) erased

On 5 June, Gustav’s uncle was proclaimed King Charles XIII, after accepting a new liberal Constitution, which was ratified by the Diet the next day.

Above: Royal monogram of King Charles XIII of Sweden

Gustav and his family were expelled out of the country.

Via three separate carriages. Gustav Adolf and Frederica travelled in one carriage, escorted by General Skjöldebrand.

Their son Gustav travelled in the second with Colonel Baron Posse.

Their daughters (Sophie, Amalia and Cecilia) and their governess Von Panhuys travelled in the last carriage escorted by Colonel von Otter.

Frederica was offered to be escorted with all honours due to a member of the House of Baden if she travelled alone, but declined and brought no courtier with her, only her German chamber maid Elisabeth Freidlein.

The family left for Germany by ship from Karlskrona on 6 December 1809. 

Above: Images from modern Karlskrona, Sweden

Thus the exile of a king and his family began.

Here is where this instalment of his story (and my own) ends.

To be continued…..

In my eyes
Indisposed
In disguises no one knows
Hides the face
Lies the snake
And the sun in my disgrace
Boiling heat
Summer stench
Neath the black, the sky looks dead
Call my name
Through the cream
And I’ll hear you scream again

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Stuttering
Cold and damp
Steal the warm wind, tired friend
Times are gone
For honest men
Sometimes, far too long for snakes
In my shoes
Walking sleep
In my youth, I pray to keep
Heaven send
Hell away
No one sings like you anymore

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come? (Black hole sun, black hole sun)

Hang my head
Drown my fear
Till you all just disappear

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Lonely Planet, The World / Rough Guide to London / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Carl Franz and Lorena Havens, The People’s Guide to Mexico / Susan Griffith, Work Your Way Around the World / Dan Kieran, The Idle Traveller: The Art of Slow Travel / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Chiang Lee, The Silent Traveller in Oxford

Swiss Miss and the Mama of the Mountains

Eskişehir, Turkey, Tuesday 9 April 2022

Psychology, not one of my strengths, is a topic on my mind these days.

I find myself from time to time in the midst of psychological conflict with a wife who cannot comprehend that my search for personal happiness cannot revolve around being with her constantly, that I must be fulfilled in all the roles a man must do, besides husband.

I am engaged in mental battle with a colleague at work in Eskişehir who desires me to humble myself and apologize to her for a wrong I neither meant nor directed at her.

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Turkey

I am reading Orhan Pamuk’s The Museum of Innocence slowly and minutely, finding myself disturbed by the plot therein.

I find myself remembering an evening meeting at the school with a student who is a psychiatrist by trade.

I had great difficulty in sticking to the script of my Encounter (the Wall Street English name for the language elicitation sessions we have) and found myself quizzing her as to the nature of her profession:

What was most difficult about her job?

What was most fulfilling about her job?

How did her job affect her personal life?

As a father figure to most of the people with whom I am acquainted with in Eskişehir I find myself a witness and councillor to the relationships they are engaged in.

Somehow they equate age with wisdom.

Though it is true that I know a thing or two because I have seen a thing or two, this does in no way negate the application of the adage “no fool like an old fool” to my character.

A friend has confessed to me their struggle between the desires of the day and the longings for tomorrow.

There is a romance here, but is there a future here?

There may be a future out there, but will there be romance over there?

Tough call.

Tough decision.

A hard choice between two uncertainties.

The “out there” is presently focused on Vietnam where potential employment awaits.

All I know of Vietnam is that which I read.

My experience with the ‘Nam is limited to the perspective of my friend Swiss Miss (Heidi Hoi) and her time spent there.

But perhaps the experience of my Swiss friend might be instructive for my Eskişehir friend?

Thus I return to Heidi‘s story…..

Sa Pa, Vietnam, March 2019

Sa Pa is a mountain town – home to a great diversity of ethnic minority peoples.

If you were expecting a quaint alpine town, recalibrate your expectations.

Modern tourism development has seen Sapa’s skyline continually thrust upwards.

But you’re not here to hang out in town.

Above: Sa Pa, Vietnam

This is northern Vietnam’s premier trekking base, from where hikers launch themselves into a surrounding countryside of cascading rice terraces and tiny hill-tribe villages that seem a world apart.

Once you’ve stepped out into the lush fields, you’ll understand the Sapa area’s real charm.

Most of the ethnic minority people work their land on sloping terraces since the vast majority of the land is mountainous.

Their staple foods are rice and corn.

Rice, by its very nature of being a labour-intensive crop, makes the daily fight for survival paramount.

The unique climate in Sa Pa has a major influence on the ethnic minorities who live in the area.

With sub-tropical summers, temperate winters and 160 days of mist annually, the influence on agricultural yields and health-related issues is significant.

The geographical location of the area makes it a truly unique place for many interesting plants and animals, allowing it to support many inhabitants.

Many very rare or even endemic species have been recorded in the region.

The scenery of the Sa Pa region in large part reflects the relationship between the minority people and nature.

This is seen especially in the paddy fields carpeting the rolling lower slopes of the Hoàng Lién Mountains.

The impressive physical landscape which underlies this has resulted from the work of the elements over thousands of years, wearing away the underlying rock.

On a clear day – (it does happen) – the imposing peak of Fan Si Pan comes into view.

The last major peak in the Himalayan chain, Fan Si Pan offers a real challenge to even the keenest walker, the opportunity of staggering views, and a rare glimpse of some of the last remaining primary rain forest in Vietnam.

Geology, climate and human activity have combined to produce a range of very distinct habitats around Sa Pa.

Especially important is Sa Pa’s geographic position, at the convergence of the world’s 14 “biomes” (distinct biographic areas), producing an assemblage of plant and animal species unique in the world.

In 2014, Sa Pa ranked #9 in the top 10 rice terrace destinations of the world by Spot Cool Stuff.

The best time to take great photos of the yellow rice terraces in Sapa is September.

Occasionally, thick white snow is recorded in Sapa in winter (December to February), giving adventurous travellers a rare chance to admire snow-capped mountains.

It is a one-of-a-lifetime experience in a tropical country like Vietnam.

The Hoàng Lién Mountains are home to a rich variety of plants, birds, mammals, amphibians, reptiles and insects, many only found in northwestern Vietnam.

For this reason, the Hoàng Lién Nature Reserve was made a National Park in 2006.

Above: Hoàng Lién National Park

Hoàng Lién covers much of the mountain range to the immediate south of Sa Pa.

Forest type and quality change with increasing altitude.

At 2,000 meters the natural, undisturbed forest begins to be seen.

Above 2,500 meters dwarf conifers and rhododendrons predominate in the harsh “elfin forest“, (so called because a lack of topsoil and nutrients means that fully mature trees grow to measure only a few meters in height).

Higher still, only the hardiest of plant species are found.

At over 3,000 meters, Fan Si Pan’s summit can only support dwarf bamboo.

Around 7 million minority people (nearly 2/3 of Vietnam’s total minority population) live in the northern uplands, mostly in isolated villages.

The largest ethnic groups are Thai and Muong in the northwest, Tay and Nung in the northeast and Hmong and Dao dispersed throughout the region.

Historically, all these peoples migrated from southern China at various times throughout history:

Those who arrived first, notably the Tay and Thai, settled in the fertile valleys where they now lead a relatively prosperous existence, while late arrivals, such as the Hmong and Dao, took to living on the higher slopes.

Despite government efforts to integrate them into the Vietnamese community, most continue to follow a way of life that has changed very little over the centuries.

For an insight into the minorities’ traditional cultures and highly varied styles of dress, visit Hanoi’s informative Museum of Ethnology before setting off into the mountains.

To get in shape for a trek through the valley, try taking a short but steep hike to the top of Ham Rong Mountain, which overlooks the town from an elevation of around 2,000 metres.

Stone steps lead up to the peak where there are fine panoramic views on a clear day.

The pathway is lined with potted orchids, landscaped gardens and depictions of cartoon characters like Mickey Mouse.

To find the entrance to the park, follow Ham Rong to the north of the church in the town centre.

Above: Ham Rong Mountain

Vietnam’s highest mountain, Fan Si Pan (3143m) lies less than 5 km as the crow flies from Sa Pa, but it’s an arduous three- to five-day round trip on foot.

The usual route starts by descending 300 metres to cross the Muong Hoa River and then climbs almost 2,000 metres on overgrown paths through pine forest and bamboo thickets before emerging on the southern ridge.

The reward is a panorama encompassing the mountain ranges of northwest Vietnam, south to Son La Province and north to the peaks of Yunnan in China.

Above: Mount Fan Si Pan

Although it is a hard climb, the most difficult aspect of Fan Si Pan is its climate:

Even in the most favourable months of November and December it is difficult to predict a stretch of settled clear weather and many people are forced back by cloud, rain and cold.

Setting on top highlight destinations in the Sapa travel guide for adventurous travellers, Fansipan Mount is not only the highest peak in all of Vietnam but also the “roof of the Indochina peninsula”.

The actual trek boasts breathtaking panoramic views of majestic mountains, lush valleys and dense forests, challenging both amateur and professional hikers.

Above: The roof of Indochina

The pristine and rustic beauty of the Cave of Fairies enchants thousands of travellers from the very first glimpse of an eye.

The emerald waters of the Chay River surrounded by high cliffs turns this limestone cave into a heavenly corner on earth with charming scenery.

Above: Entrance to the Cave of Fairies

The Cave of Fairies looks like something straight out of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale.

Above: Ho Dong Tien Cave: The Cave of Fairies

Perching on the peak of Tram Ton pass on the Hoang Lien Son mountain range is Heaven’s Gate.

About 18 kilometers to the north of Sapa, it boasts a great view looking over the valleys between Fansipan, the roof of Indochina Peninsula.

As its name reveals, this destination brings a little feeling of Heaven with a sublime scenery featuring majestic mountains and extreme abyss.

Setting foot on Heaven’s Gate to grasp the beautiful scenery of the winding pass roads below will be an unforgettable memory for newcomers to Sapa.

Above: Heaven’s Gate

A guide is essential to trace indistinct paths, hack through bamboo and locate water sources if climbing Mount Fan Si Pan.

Hmong guides are said to know the mountain best.

Sa Pa hotels and tour agents can arrange guides and porters as required.

A popular, hassle-free way to visit minority villages is to join one of the organized trips offered by tour agencies in Hanoi, Sa Pa, Bac Ha and Ha Giang.

Generally, you are better off going with local companies as they are more familiar with the villages visited.

While it is possible to go alone to places like Cat Cat near Sa Pa, independent trekking is generally frowned upon and locals may not be as welcoming as they are to groups.

With typical wooden houses, flowing streams, elaborate brocades, and hospitable ethnic people, the enchanting Cat Cat is the most beautiful ancient village in Sapa.

Being the home to the Hmong ethnic group, this little hamlet is where local inhabitants retain the cultivation of flax and cotton with a long-standing tradition of weaving beautiful brocade fabrics.

Drop by the village, you can learn about one-of-a-kind customs and practices of Hmong through their local life as well as get an insight into their traditional culture while enjoying the local hospitality.

Above: Cat Cat, Vietnam

Behaviour that we take for granted may cause offence to some ethnic minority people –

Remember that you are a guest.

Apart from being sensitive to the situation and keeping an open mind, the following rules should be observed when visiting the ethnic minority areas.

  • Dress modestly, in long trousers or a skirt, in a T-shirt or shirt.
  • Be sensitive when taking photographs, particularly of older people who are generally suspicious of the camera – always ask permission first.
  • Only enter a house when you’ve been invited, and be prepared to remove your shoes.
  • Small gifts, such as fresh fruit from the local market, are always welcome, and it’s also a good idea to buy craftwork produced by the villagers – most communities have some embroidery, textiles or basketry for sale.
  • As a mark of respect, learn the local terms of address, either in a dialect or at least in Vietnamese, such as chao ong, chao ba.
  • Try to minimize your impact on the fragile local environment: take litter back to the towns with you and be sensitive when using wood and other scarce resources.

Hiking and enjoying nature is the name of the game in Sapa.

The most prominent attraction in the area around Sapa is Fan Si Pan, which is the highest mountain in Vietnam.

It’s only 19km from town. 

This may seem like a short distance, but the trek is not easy.

The rough terrain and unpredictable weather present some difficulties.

Tourists who are fit and have mountain climbing experience will enjoy this attraction the most as the peak is accessible all year round.

Technical climbing skills are not necessary, but endurance is a must.

Towering above Sapa are the Hoang Lien Mountains, once known to the French as the Tonkinese Alps and now a National Park.

These mountains include the often-cloud-obscured Fansipan (3,143 metres), Vietnam’s highest peak, regularly dubbed ‘the Roof of Indochina‘.

Fansipan’s wild, lonesome beauty has been somewhat shattered with the opening of a 6,292-metre-long cable car, taking people across the Muong Hoa Valley and up to near the summit in 15 minutes.

Above: Lower end of Mount Fan Si Pan cable car

Buy tickets at the ticket office in Sapa’s main square, from where a funicular train (50,000 VND return) shuttles passengers to the lower cable-car station.

After the cable-car ride you still face 600 steps to the summit, or you can take another funicular (70,000 VND one way) from Do Quyen, passing a series of pagodas and Buddhas to the summit.

Above: Do Quyen Waterfall

Expect crowds or clouds, depending on the weather.

Fan Si Pan can be found in Hoàng Lién National Park, which is an attraction in itself.

The park covers a picturesque mountain landscape and several forests, and serves as the habitat for a diverse set of animals.

Some species can only be found in northwest Vietnam and are highly endangered.

Nature lovers will truly appreciate this park.

Above: Hoàng Lién National Park

Other attractions that are part of the Hoang Lien National Park include the Cat Cat Village and the Ta Phin Village and cave.

Above: Cat Cat, Vietnam

Above: Ta Phin, Vietnam

Above: Ta Phin Cave

Trekking is the main activity in Sapa. 

Trekking maps are available from the Tourist Information Centre on Fansipan Street.

These maps are invaluable if you want to trek around the area without a guide.

They show the walking trails and trekking routes around town.

Most hotels in Sapa offer tourists guided half-day and day long treks, but the best places to inquire about these treks are the Cha Pa Garden, Auberge Hotel, Cat Cat View Hotel and Mountain View Hotel.

While it is possible to go hiking around Sapa on your own, it is better to have the assistance of a guide to guarantee a more enriching experience.

When it comes to longer treks or overnight stays in the villages, the knowledge of a local will come in handy.

Regardless of being on a walking tour or not, tribal women will walk with you and try to assist you in any possible way hoping for a tip. 

Above: Sa Pa, Vietnam

The road between Sapa and Lai Chau crosses the Tram Ton Pass on the northern side of Mount Fan Si Pan, 15 km from Sapa.

At 1,900 metres it is Vietnam’s highest mountain pass and acts as a dividing line between two climatic zones.

The lookout points here have fantastic views in clear weather.

Above: Mount Fan Si Pan

On the Sapa side it is often cold and foggy, but drop a few hundred metres onto the Lai Chau side and it can be sunny and warm.

Surprisingly, while Sapa is the coldest place in Vietnam, Lai Chau can be one of the warmest.

Above: Lai Chau

Most people also stop at 100-metre-high Thac Bac (Silver Waterfall, admission 20,000 VND), 12 km from Sapa.

A one-way/return xe om here costs 80,000/150,000 dong.

Above: Thac Bac Waterfall

Tourists who want to learn something new can go on community-based tours to Sin Chai, a Hmong village.

On most tours, overnight stays are arranged so people can learn about textiles, or tribal music and dance.

This is what they came for.

Above: Sin Chai, Vietnam

Most visitors come to Sa Pa to trek to minority villages in the Muong Hoa Valley, which separates Sa Pa from Mount Fan Si Pan.

Until 2016, only a few hardy trekkers each year were successful in scaling Vietnam’s highest peak, but thousands now head there each day thanks to the completion of a controversial 7km, three-wire cable car from Sa Pa to the top.

Stretching 6,292 metres, Fansipan Legend is the longest three-wire cable car in the world.

Its altitude gain of 1,410 metres is also the world’s highest for a three-rope cable car.

Though this enormous project (costing $210 million) was strongly criticized by environmentalists for threatening the continued existence of rare species of flora and fauna, most visitors find it an exciting experience.

Gondolas hold up to 30 people.

The journey up takes around 20 minutes and offers eye-popping views of rice terraces in the valley, churning rivers, waterfalls and dense woodland near the summit.

Unfortunately, the summit itself is cloaked in cloud more often than not, but there is still no shortage of visitors queuing to snap a selfie at the top.

There are souvenir shops and restaurants at the lower and upper terminals.

Take a couple of layers to put on when you get out of the cable car at the top.

Allow a few hours at the top and be prepared to stand in long queues to get on board at weekends.

Above: The summit of Mount Fan Si Pan

But I don’t recommend this.

Instead, walk.

For walking has a multitude of amateurs.

Everyone walks.

It is an activity that requires openness, engagement and few expenses.

While walking, the body and the mind work together, so that thinking becomes almost a physical rhythmic act.

Isn’t it really quite extraordinary to see that, since Man took his first step, no one has asked himself why he walks, how he walks, if he has ever walked, if he could walk better, what he achieves in walking – questions that are tied to all the philosophical, psychological and political systems which preoccupy the world.

(Honoré de Balzac, Theorie de la Demarche)

Above: Honoré de Balzac (1799 – 1850)

For Heidi, there was a joy to finding that her body was adequate to get her where she was going.

It was a gift to develop a more tangible, concrete relationship to her neighbourhood and its residents.

On the trail there is a more stately sense of time one has afoot.

On public transit, where things must be planned and scheduled beforehand, everything feels rushed and ruined.

There is a sense of place that can only be gained on foot.

Too many people nowadays live in a series of interiors – home, car, gym, office, shops, cable car – disconnected from one another.

On foot everything stays connected, for while walking one occupies the spaces between these interiors in the same way one occupies these interiors.

One lives in the whole world rather than in interiors built up against it.

From Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust: A History of Walking:

I had told Sono about an ad I found in the Los Angeles Times a few months ago that I had been thinking about ever since.

It was for a CD-ROM encyclopedia and the text that occupied a whole page read:

You used to walk across town in the pouring rain to use our encyclopedia.

We are pretty confident that we can get your kid to click and drag.

I think it was the kid’s walk in the rain that constituted the real education, at least of the senses and the imagination.

It is the unpredictable incidents between official events that add up to a life, the incalculable that give it value.

The random, the unscreened, allows you to find what you don’t know you are looking for.

You don’t know a place until it surprises you.

Walking is one way of maintaining a bulwark against this erosion of the mind, the body, the landscape.

Every walker is a guard on patrol to protect the ineffable.

When you give yourself to places, they give you yourself back.

The more one comes to know them, the more one seeds them with the invisible crop of memories and associations that will be waiting for you when you come back, while new places offer up new thoughts, new possibilities.

Exploring the world is one of the best ways of exploring the mind.

Walking travels both terrains.

Certainly, Heidi could have ascended in comfort, speed and predictability up to the summit of Mount Fan Si Pan.

Certainly, she could have gazed upon the ground below like some Olympian goddess, but doing so the senses are denied forests of huge trees that rise above, plants and animals caressing the Earth that gave them life, all things that are beautiful about existence.

If you are looking for a true adventure in Sapa, skip the cable car and venture into the lush forests of Fan Si Pan.

A good traveller has no fixed plans and is not intent upon arriving.

Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching

Above: Zhang Lu-Laozi (Lao Tzu) riding an ox through a pass: It is said that with the fall of the Chou dynasty, Lao Tzu decided to travel west through the Han Valley Pass. The Pass Commissioner, Yin-hsi, noticed a trail of vapor emanating from the east, deducing that a sage must be approaching. Not long after, Lao Tzu riding his ox indeed appeared and, at the request of Yin-hsi, wrote down his famous Tao Te Ching, leaving afterwards. This story thus became associated with auspiciousness.

My advice to the younger generation is:

Learn to relax and find meaning in the experience.

When you let go of the haste of normal life, it teaches you truths about yourself you had no idea you longed to know.

Amble out into the world at the whim of your curiosity, search for meaning, and follow whatever sparks your sense of adventure along the way.

Life is boundless and therefore fragmentary.

It is our imagination that brings meaning to these fragments, that gives these fragments a unity called Life.

All days are difficult.

The point is to find enough hope to get through the day.

Hope must be sought, discovered.

Walking is that quest for hope.

Writing is my expression of that quest for hope.

While it is possible to wander into the Muong Hoa Valley, pass through a couple of minority villages and return to Sa Pa in a day, for the full-on Sa Pa trekking experience you will want to overnight in a home-stay and get to know something about your hosts.

The cost to enter most villages is 50,000 dong, though this is included in the price of organized treks.

Expect to pay $60 per day per person for these, depending on the number of people in the group.

It is important to wear the right clothing when walking in these mountains:

Strong ankle support are the best footwear, though you can get away with training shoes in the dry season.

Choose thin, loose clothing.

Long trousers offer some protection from thorns and leeches.

Wear a hat and sunblock.

Take plenty of water.

Carry a basic medical kit.

If you plan on spending a night in a village, you will need warm clothing as temperatures can drop to around freezing.

You might want to take a sleeping bag, mosquito net and food, though these are usually provided on organized tours.

Finally, aggressive dogs can be a problem when entering villages, so it is a good idea to carry a strong stick when trekking.

Always be watchful for the venomous snakes that are common in this area.

The French first developed Sa Pa town, the gateway to the region, as a hill station and cool summer escape from Hanoi’s oppressive heat.

Their dominance in the area didn’t last long, though.

During the 1940s, Vietnamese independence fighters drove the colonists from the region, but not before the French bombed Sa Pa town, leaving nothing but ruins behind them.

It wasn’t until the 1990s that redevelopment began in earnest and tourists started to flock back to the region.

Now, trekking in Sa Pa is one of the biggest tourist activities in Vietnam.

Sa Pa town is the very definition of “tacky tourist town”, with hotels, happy hour signs and souvenir shops obliterating anything real, but Heidi has enjoyed waking up this morning to the quiet beauty of Sa Pa.

Sa Pa town is a crazy tourist trap with hundreds of guest houses offering happy hour cocktails and $5 beds.

A great place if drinking cheap cocktails with hordes of other tourists is your idea of a good time.

Walk along the maze of streets.

Above: Sa Pa, Vietnam

Venture into the Sa Pa Market to try fried banana, corn or sweet potato cake, or grilled fresh sweet potato or grilled corn sold by street vendors as an appetizer. 

If you are brave enough, try a grilled balut (put one balut on a cup, make a hole on top of the balut, add marinade and enjoy.

Above: Sa Pa Market

Walk further through small alleys where you can try different kinds of grilled sticks and rolls (beef, fish, pork or seafood on a stick or roll in mustard greens) and several glasses of inexpensive draft beer.

Or get a seat in a local restaurant, order a fresh salmon from local salmon farms in Sapa or sturgeon and let your chef to perform his skill. 

Salmon hotpot is perfect on a cool evening.

Above: Salmon hotpot

Although still beautiful and highly recommended visiting, Sa Pa is no longer the peaceful hill town it once was.

Many local stores have been replaced by stores selling items visitors need and want because it is more profitable for the local store owners. 

The streets are narrow, with many vans carrying visitors in and out, those same visitors walking the streets, and construction of new hotels contributing to the congestion. 

It can be a bit chaotic. 

So in Sa Pa town don’t expect unspoiled wilderness.

Above: Sa Pa, Vietnam

At the Sa Pa market, a tiny Hmong woman dressed in traditional clothing is waiting for Heidi.

She is the trekking guide, Mama of the Mountains.

The Hmong, known in China for centuries under the name Miao, used to be called Méo in Southeast Asia.

Above: Hmong women at market, Coc Ly, Vietnam

Their number is about three million and they are scattered over a vast territory stretching from southwest China (2 million) to North Vietnam (600,000), Laos (about 250,000), Thailand (150,000) and Myanmar (formerly Burma) (about 30,000).

Above: Flag of China

Above: Flag of Vietnam

Above: Flag of Laos

Above: Flag of Thailand

Above: Flag of Myanmar

They have been members of the Unrepresented Nations and Peoples Organization (UNPO) since 2007.

Above: Flag of Unrepresented Nations and Peoples Organization (UNPO)

The Hmong are easy to identify because of their red costume.

Above: Hmong costume

In the market food court, Heidi is given a bowl of tofu noodle soup for breakfast.

It is possibly vegetarian, though the piles of mystery meat on every table in the market do make visitors wonder.

Nourishment being the priority, Heidi slurps up the salty sour soup while her tour companions arrive in small, yawning groups.

After breakfast, the gang who had gathered to go trekking in Sapa splits into two groups and they set off up the backstreets and alleyways rising out of Sapa town.

After five minutes of hill climbing in the searing heat, everyone is drenched in sweat and panting hard.

After half an hour, everyone is questioning their life choices.

Heidi views her guide with great scepticism.

Mama – that’s what the guide insists her group calls her – is half Heidi‘s height, her English broken, her back slightly bent, her tone that will not suffer fools, but her smile is infectious.

To give the guide her credit, she knows exactly when to stop to prevent fainting or major heart trauma.

As they reach the day’s first real rest break, exposing a dramatic view of Sapa town far below, the clouds roll in and rain starts to drip out of the sky.

Nobody minds.

Everyone is hot and sticky and happy for the free shower.

The shower turns into a proper rain storm.

Sapa is home to Vietnam’s highest peak, Fan Si Pan, which tickles the clouds 3,143 metres above sea level, keeping watch over the terraced rice paddies that line Sapa’s steep valley walls.

Above: Sa Pa

Home to several ethnic minorities, chiefly the Hmong, the Dao and the Dai, Sapa has been attracting trekkers since the early 1900s.

They walk slowly along a small local path leading into the bottom of the valley, where some stalls are available that serve tea and fruits:

A perfect spot to take a rest and have lunch.

Above: The village of Lao Chai

After lunch, they visit the Tay people of Ta Van, which lies in the middle of the Muong Hoa Valley.

The Tay, who have been present in Vietnam from the beginning, are a branch of the Tay-Thai group.

In Sa Pa, the Tay ethnic group is concentrated in some southern communities, such as Ho village, Nam Sai village and Thanh Phu village.

It is easy to distinguish the Tay from other ethnic groups because their clothing is very different and has only one colour, dark indigo.

Above: Tay women

Above: Ta Van, Vietnam

They check in a local homestay for overnight.

The local hostess prepares dinner.

During dinner, Heidi tries to talk with them to understand more about their local life and thought. 

More rice?

More rice?

Have more rice?

Have more rice!

It wasn’t a question so much as a command — a very forceful command from their homestay host.

She had been around the entire table of trekkers twice already, wielding her plastic rice paddle like a sword.

After a meal that consists of great mountains of tofu, pumpkin, green beans, bean sprouts, mushroom stir fry and, for the carnivores in the group, fried pork, more rice is exactly what Heidi didn’t want.

When it was her turn to get third helpings, Heidi stretched her arms as far away from the tiny hostess and her plastic rice paddle as she could get.

No,” Heidi laughs.

No, I won’t eat it!

A minute later, after she thought had escaped, another half-cup of rice has been plopped it into her bowl.

At each meal, local women come around to sell their handmade bags, scarves and jewelry.

Even though Heidi isn’t interested, it doesn’t hurt to be friendly, make eye contact, and smile.

The vendors persist in showing her each item they have in their bags, so whether Heidi is friendly or not — she might as well make it a pleasant experience for everyone involved.

The native hill tribe women have learned that following trekkers and city walkers selling local crafts is a great business model. 

So it is best to expect and embrace it as part of the culture, while politely declining if you are not interested, or purchasing/donating if you are inclined. 

The local people are genuine and very friendly if you get to know them beyond their sales. 

Local hill tribe women wear traditional dress, not as much for tourists as it has been their tradition to wear it outside the home for centuries. 

It is not the tradition for men to do so. 

Acres and acres of rice paddies line the hillsides, passed down through the family for generations and still cultivated as a primary source of income.

Once the rice is finally eaten, the rice wine comes out in a much-used plastic 1.5L water bottle.

Once again, the hostess will not be denied.

The trekkers and their enthusiastic hostess down shot after shot of the fiery clear liquid, each drink being preceded by a group chant of “Một hai ba, yo!” or “One, two, three, cheers!”.

A messy, drunken evening ensues.

But the thing about messy drunken evenings at the end of a full day of trekking is that they invariably end early.

Everyone is snugly encamped under mosquito nets by 8:30 pm.

Before 11 pm, even the most foolhardy drinkers have turned out the lights and snored themselves to sleep.

Dreaming of the road ahead.

Not so early the next morning, they gather for a breakfast of thin pancakes with fresh local honey, bananas and fried eggs.

Heidi eats as much as her stomach can hold, knowing another day of heavy exertion lies ahead.

The large group sets off together, winding their way down through the village and out along a narrow muddy track onto the sparsely forested slopes of the mountain.

They pass tiny wooden houses where piglets, baby chicks, and puppies play in the dirt.

There are plenty of village children to meet, too.

Some kids are shy or indifferent to our passing.

Others shout “Hello!” or come running out for a high five.

Slightly ahead of the group, Heidi spots an adorable girl.

Xin chao!”, she shouts with a grin.

The little girl returns Heidi’s smile and her greeting.

With her mother and brother watching over her, Heidi bends down to say hello again and asks to take her picture.

The little girl strikes a perfect pose.

The streamlined group of long-term travellers falls into an easy rhythm as the rice fields and endless purple mountains spread out before them.

Today’s trek is much less hilly and far more satisfying than yesterday’s.

For a start, the clouds have rolled away and they enjoy spectacular views of the rice fields and orchards along the mountainside.

They are also further from Sa Pa town, meaning that they meet more locals and fewer tourists.

Finally, Heidi manages to have real conversations.

Between the quiet minutes of meditative walking, they share their most remarkable travel experiences, their embarrassing moments, their favourite music and their best travel tips.

They chat about the various study- and volunteer-abroad experiences each of them has had, how they handle pressures from family and friends back home, and their plans (or lack thereof) for the future.

Though Heidi enjoys the occasional party, this is what she was looking for on a group tour:

Meeting like-minded people with interesting observations about the world and their unceasing desire to explore it.

The village of Giang Ta Chai is the next stop, which we will reach by following a path over a bridge.

Lunch is provided near a waterfall, just before arrival at the village.

Above: Giang Ta Chai, Vietnam

Eventually, the trek returns to the hill above Hau Thao village.

Above: Hau Thao, Vietnam

They continue to trek to the next village of Ban Ho.

There lives the Tay tribe with their special wooden houses on stilts.

They overnight in Ban Ho village.

Above: Ban Ho, Vietnam

In the morning after breakfast the group walks around Ban Ho village and then trek to Love Waterfall to relax.

Above: Love Waterfall

The final day’s trek is all about making fast tracks back to Sa Pa town.

They follow a steep road that winds up out of the valley floor, taking them back the way they came.

Being on the road in a small group means they make quick time, though they still take plenty of breaks to high five the local kids, attempt to cuddle the large puppy population, and have at least one close encounter with a buffalo.

Once again, they are under the blistering sun for their climb.

A sticky layer of sunscreen, sweat, and rich red dirt envelops them all.

Clouds roll in, threatening more rain, but do little to cool the group.

They stop in a village café near their first night’s homestay for our final lunch of the trip.

It is a hub for people coming and going from Sapa, so once again Heidi is part of a noisy gang of tourists.

Mama shows up to herd the entire café full of trekkers to their various destinations:

Some are getting the 4 pm bus to Hanoi.

Others are taking the sleeper bus or the train.

Still others are hopping on a bus to Lao, while some are staying another night at the homestay.

The efficiency and humour Mama displays while arranging this frenzy of activity is a minor miracle.

The Hmong grow watermelons, oranges, dragon fruit and bananas in orchards around Fan Si Pan.

Tourism provides them with new opportunities to earn sustainable salary.

With that income, they can help their families and their communities.

Put on your trekking boots and step out into the lush green fields of Sapa in Vietnam.

Experience amazing nature brushed with every palette of green.

Meet and engage with the local minority people and immerse yourself into their culture. 

People often use “Sapa” to describe the entire region, not only the smaller Sapa town of 7,000, a hillside town overlooking the green surrounding ​valleys with views of Fan Si Pan, Vietnam’s highest peak, and the dozens of surrounding villages where 29,000 mostly native minorities have lived for hundreds of years. 

The area saw very few tourists before 1993, when both Vietnamese and foreign tourists started to come to see the beautiful terraced rice paddies, corn fields clinging to the sides of the valleys, the clouds rolling in and out, and to stay and relax in the beautiful countryside.

Of course, in conversations with Mama, Heidi wondered what it must be like to be a woman in Vietnam.

Women occupy both the domestic and outside sector in contemporary Vietnam.

Women’s participation in the economy, government, and society has increased.

In the domestic sphere, little progress has been made to improve gender relations.

Above: Young Vietnamese women

Traditional Confucian patriarchal values values have continued to persist, as well as a continued emphasis on the family unit.

This has comprised the main criticism of Vietnam Women’s Union, an organization that works towards advancing women’s rights.

Furthermore, recent shifts in Vietnam’s sex ratio show an increased number of men outnumbering women, which many researchers have stated to in part be caused by the two-child policy in Vietnam.

Confucianism’s emphasis on the family still impacts Vietnamese women’s lives, especially in rural areas, where it espouses the importance of premarital female virginity and condemns abortion and divorce.

Above: The teaching Confucius (551 – 479 BCE)

According to a 2006 study, over the past decades, little progression in gender relations have been made.

Household chores and labour are still primarily performed by Vietnamese women.

However, women in Vietnam have shown increased influence in familial decisions, such as household budgets and the education of the children.

In terms of childcare responsibility, men have shown an increased participation at the earlier ages of childcare, though women overall still bear the main responsibility. 

Women are seen primarily as mothers, and are considered to have shown “respect” to their husband’s lineage if they give birth to a boy.

While patrilineal ancestor worship shows girls as “outside lineage” (họ ngoại), it consider boys to be “inside lineage” (họ nội).

Vietnamese society tends to follow the ancestral line through males, pushing women to the periphery.

As aforementioned Vietnam has a two child policy.

Some families want at least one boy, but would prefer two boys to two girls, so they use ultrasound machines to determine the baby’s sex to later abort female offspring.

Above: Five sisters, Hanoi, Vietnam, 1953

The main religion in Vietnam are traditional folk beliefs.

This is not an organized religion, however it does adopt many Confucian views.

One of the main views that it takes from Confucius is the Patrilineal Society.

Men are the head of the family and more their lineage is to be protected.

As it pertains to motherhood, Vietnam women are seen as and used primarily as mothers.

Female virginity is of extreme importance, especially in rural areas, and the Society condemns abortion and female divorce.

As said, if a woman wants to show respect to her husband, the best way she can do that is to bear him a son.

Above: “Heaven will instruct the master like a wooden-clapper bell to awaken everyone to the Way.” — Analects 3.24

The issue of domestic violence has faced scrutiny in Vietnam.

In 2007, Vietnamese legislation passed the Law on Prevention and Control Domestic Violence, which reported that 32% of Vietnamese women have suffered sexual violence from their spouses, while 54% of women in Vietnam have suffered from emotional violence.

Speculation has rose on the viability of divorce as a solution to those in situations of domestic violence.

This is due to the prevalent local attitudes and measures taken towards preventing divorce in order to preserve the family unit, rather than helping victims escape domestic abuse.

Additionally, surveys have indicated that 87% of domestic violence victims in Vietnam do not seek support for their situation.

In a study comparing Chinese and Vietnamese attitudes towards women, more Vietnamese than Chinese said that the male should dominate the family and a wife had to provide sex to her husband at his will.

Above: A traditional Vietnamese country wedding

(From this male blogger’s point-of-view, I am not suggesting that a wife must provide sex to her husband at his will, but it is the hope that she wants to have sex with her partner with the same desired frequency.)

Violence against women was supported by more Vietnamese than Chinese.

Domestic violence was more accepted by Vietnamese women than Chinese women.

Some Vietnamese women from Lào Cai who married Chinese men stated that among their reasons for doing so was that Vietnamese men beat their wives, engaged in affairs with mistresses, and refused to help their wives with chores, while Chinese men actively helped their wives carry out chores and care for them.

Above: Lào Cai City, Vietnam

Vietnamese women travelling to China as mail order brides for rural Chinese men to earn money for their families and a rise in the standard of living, matchmaking between Chinese men and Vietnamese women has increased and has not been effected by troubled relations between Vietnam and China.

Above: Flags of Vietnam (left) and China (right)

Vietnamese mail order brides have also gone to Taiwan and South Korea for marriage.

Above: Flag of Taiwan

Above: Flag of South Korea

The main human rights issue in Southeast Asia is human trafficking.

According to one study, Southeast Asia is a large source of human trafficking, with many individuals who fall victim to human trafficking being sent to Australia.

Above: Flag of Australia

Vietnam, as well as other countries such as Cambodia, Laos, and the Philippines, are major source countries for human trafficking.

Above: Flag of Cambodia

Above: Flag of the Philippines

While many of the victims that are a part of human trafficking are forced/kidnapped/enslaved, others were lured in under the assumption that they were getting a better job.

According to a policy brief on human trafficking in Southeast Asia, although victims include girls, women, boys, and men, the majority are women.

Women tend to be more highly targeted by traffickers due to the fact that they are seeking opportunity in an area of the world where limited economic opportunities are available for them.

Unskilled and poorly educated women are commonly led into human trafficking.

According to the United Nations Office on Drug and Crime (UNODC) report, women are trafficked the most.

The main causes of human trafficking in Southeast Asia are universal factors such as poverty and globalization.

Industrialization is arguably also another factor of human trafficking.

Many scholars argue that industrialization of booming economies, like that of Thailand and Singapore, created a draw for poor migrants seeking upward mobility and individuals wanting to leave war torn countries.

These migrants were an untapped resource in growing economies that had already exhausted the cheap labor from within its borders.

A high supply of migrant workers seeking employment and high demand from an economy seeking cheap labor creates a perfect combination for human traffickers to thrive.

Above: Flag of Singapore

The sex industry emerged in Southeast Asia in the mid 20th century as a way for women to generate more income for struggling migrants and locals trying to support families or themselves.

Sex industries first catered to military personnel on leave from bases, but as military installations began to recede the industry turned its attention to growing tourism.

Above: Scene from Good Morning, Vietnam – Chintara Sukapatana (Trinh) and Robin Williams (Adrian Cronauer)

Even as the industry is looked down upon today there is still a large underground market that is demanding from traffickers.

Between 2005 and 2009, 6,000 women, as well as younger girls, were found to be in the human trafficking statistic.

The majority of the women and girls are trafficked to China, 30% are trafficked to Cambodia, and the remaining 10% are trafficked to the destinations across the world.

Several cases have occurred where Vietnamese women were abducted or deceived to be sold to Chinese men.

Totalling several thousands, in a significant number of cases the victims were underage.

Above: These Vietnamese girls were abducted and sold in China.

Overall literacy rates across Vietnam are high, with access to education being relatively equal between males and females.

However, regional differences are still apparent, especially amongst the mountainous northern regions.

For example, in one study, the region of Lai Chau was found to have a literacy rate for men double that of the women’s literacy rate in the region.

There is a gender gap in education, with males being more likely to attend school and sustain their education than females.

Women and men tend to be segregated into different jobs, with more women serving in educational, communications, and public services than men.

Above: Vietnamese village school, Tam Duòng

In contemporary Vietnam, there has been significant economic advancement for women, especially for middle-class Vietnamese women.

Middle-class women have increasingly become more involved in the workforce sector outside of the house, with 83% of “working-age women” being involved in the labour force.

These women have been taking on professions dealing with a variety of fields such as sales, marketing, and advertising.

Furthermore, women in the contemporary workforce and economy experience much higher wages than the generations before them.

However, research has shown that many inequalities for women still exist, with women still receiving uneven employment benefits compared to their male counterparts. 

According to one study, 76% of women in the labor force are concentrated in the agricultural sector.

And although under 10% of women in the labour force work in the textile industry, 80% of labourers in the textile industry are women.

Local credit associations do not feel secure giving loans to single mothers, which has resulted in a poverty increase for households that are led by a woman.

The average wage in the country of Vietnam was US$1,540 in 2012.

In 2011, studies showed “that women earn 13% less than men“.

The 2012 survey on workers’ salaries carried out by the Vietnam General Confederation of Labour (VGCL) in enterprises nationwide revealed that female workers’ salaries are only 70-80% of their male colleagues’.

The global average gender pay gap is hovering around 17%.

Above: Logo of the Vietnam General Confederation of Labour

According to Nguyen Kim Lan, ILO national project coordinator, the only two occupational fields where pay is equal is in logistics, and household care.

One reason for the disparity is that companies view women as wanting to stay at home and perform more gender role duties.

More than 70% of labourers in Vietnam are women.

The International Labour Organization recently stated that the gender pay gap has started to increase, according to the ILO Global Wage Report during the 2012 – 2013 period, compared to 1999 – 2007. 

A 2% increase in the gap was recorded in Vietnam in the period.

In recent decades, Vietnam has stressed the importance of gender equality.

Above: Emblem of Vietnam

To address this goal, the Vietnam Women’s Union, an organization founded in 1930 under the Vietnam Communist Party, has pursued the advancement of women in many arenas.

Above: Symbol of the Vietnamese Communist Party

However, they also stress many aspects of Confucian doctrine that keeps a male-dominated hierarchy in place.

As of 2000, their membership has expanded to 11 million, which compromises for 60% of the female population in Vietnam over the age of 18.

Because of their large membership, the Vietnam Women’s Union has frequently been regarded as the representative for women in politics.

Therefore, the VWU frequently advises during the policy-making of gender-related or women’s issues.

However, their role has been disputed due to its shortcomings in promoting women’s right effectively.

In the 1980s, the Vietnam Women’s Union increased paid maternity leave and received a promise that they would be asked before the government implemented any policies that could potentially affect the welfare of women.

However, the increased maternity leave was restored to its original length a few years later.

While there are limits in the Vietnam Women’s Union that prohibit gender change in certain areas, there does not seem to be other organized civil society groups that are fighting for women’s rights.

Two areas that have seen little change throughout recent decades are the roles women play in the family, specifically motherhood, and the human rights problems women traditionally face in the region.

In 2001, the Vietnam Women’s Union was appointed to head the planning of a new legislation, a Law on Gender Equality, which set out to equalize conditions between both genders.

The legislation included several stipulations, including laws pertaining to retirement age for both men and women.

The law went into effect mid 2007.

Their focus on Confucian values which uphold a male-dominated hierarchy has received criticism.

In numerous studies, the VWU has been criticized for its lack of action against gender norms while placing too much emphasis on family structure.

Furthermore, while their efforts have worked towards improving women’s status, the VWU faces criticism for their lack of advocacy towards women’s power.

Above: Logo of the Vietnam Women’s Union

Invariably, Heidi thinks of her life as a woman in Switzerland by comparison.

Above: Switzerland

Tradition dictates that the place of Swiss women is in the home in charge of housework and child care.

Being in a society with strong patriarchal roots, Swiss tradition also places women under the authority of their fathers and their husbands.

Such adherence to patriarchal domination changed and improved when the women of Switzerland gained their right to vote at the federal level on 7 February 1971.

However, despite of gaining status of having equal rights with men, some Swiss women still have to be able to attain education beyond the post-secondary level, thus they earn less money than men, and they occupy lower-level job positions.

According to swissinfo.ch in 2011, Switzerland’s State Secretariat for Economic Affairs (Seco) were encouraging business companies to “appoint more women to top-level positions“.

Those who are already working in business companies, according to same report, mentions that “women earn on average 20% less than men” in Switzerland, and the ratio was 6 out of 10 women were working part-time.

Prominent Swiss women in the fields of business and law include Emilie Kempin-Spyri (1853 – 1901), the first woman to graduate with a law degree and to be accepted as an academic lecturer in the country, and Isabelle Welton, the head of IBM Switzerland and one of few women in the country to hold a top-level position in a business firm.

Above: Emilie Kempin-Spyri

Above: Isabelle Welton

Above: Logo of International Business Machines (IBM)

Family life has been traditionally patriarchal, following the model of a male breadwinner and a female housewife.

In Europe, Switzerland was one of the last countries to establish gender equality in marriage:

Married women’s rights were severely restricted until 1988, when legal reforms providing gender equality in marriage, abolishing the legal authority of the husband, came into force (these reforms had been approved in 1985 by voters in a referendum, who narrowly voted in favour with 54.7% of voters approving).

Adultery was decriminalized in 1989.

In 1992, the law was changed to end discrimination against married women with regard to national citizenship.

Marital rape was criminalized in 1992.

In 2004 it became a state offense in Switzerland.

Divorce laws were also reformed in 2000 and 2005.

In 2013, further reforms to the Civil Code followed, removing the remaining discriminatory provisions regarding the spouses’ choice of family name and cantonal citizenship law.

Until the late 20th century, most cantons had regulations banning unmarried cohabitation of couples.

Above: Bern, the capital of Switzerland

The last canton to end such prohibition was Valais in 1995.

Above: Flag of the Canton of Valais

As of 2015, 22.5% of births were to unmarried women.

Women face significant struggles with regards to work for pay.

Although most women are employed, many are so on a part-time basis or in marginal employment.

The view that women, especially married women, should not work full-time remains prevalent.

Among the OECD, only the Netherlands has more women working part-time.

Above: Flag of the Netherlands

 

Although the law no longer requires the husband’s consent for a wife’s work, in job interviews women are often asked for it. 

Taxation penalizing dual-income families exists in some cantons.

The OECD has stated that:

The lack of family-friendly policy and workplace support makes it very difficult for many Swiss parents, usually mothers, to combine work and family life.”

The OECD has also urged Switzerland to end the practice of irregular and interrupted school hours which makes it difficult for mothers to work, and to revise its tax and supplementary benefits policies.

Above: Logo for Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development

Despite all these, women have a legal right to work and to not be discriminated in the workforce, under the 1996 equality law.

In 2005, paid maternity leave was introduced in Switzerland, after voters approved it in a referendum.

Four previous attempts to secure it had previously failed at the ballot box.

As in other Western countries, the 1990s and the 21st century saw reforms with regard to laws on domestic violence. 

Marital rape was made illegal in 1992, and since 2004 marital rape is prosecutable ex-officio (meaning it can be prosecuted even if the victim does not file an official complaint).

Switzerland also ratified the Council of Europe Convention on Action against Trafficking in Human Beings in 2012, and the Istanbul Convention in 2017.

Above: Women of Champery, Switzerland, 1912

Eskisehir, Turkey, Tuesday 10 May 2022

The Council of Europe Convention on preventing and combating violence against women and domestic violence, better known as the Istanbul Convention, is a human rights treaty of the Council of Europe against violence against women and domestic violence which was opened for signature on 11 May 2011, in Istanbul, Turkey.

The Convention aims at prevention of violence, victim protection and to end the impunity of perpetrators.

As of March 2019, it has been signed by 45 countries and the European Union.

The Convention came into force on 1 August 2014.

Above: Signatories of the Istanbul Convention – Green: signed and ratified / Yellow: only signed / Red: not signed / Purple: denounced and withdrawn

In a press release in November 2018, the Council of Europe stated:

Despite its clearly stated aims, several religious and ultra conservative groups have been spreading false narratives about the Istanbul Convention.”

The release stated that the Convention does not seek to impose a certain lifestyle or interfere with personal organization of private life.

Instead, it seeks only to prevent violence against women and domestic violence.

The release states that:

The Convention is certainly not about ending sexual differences between women and men.

Nowhere does the Convention ever imply that women and men are or should be ‘the same’ and that the Convention does not seek to regulate family life and/or family structures:

It neither contains a definition of ‘family’ nor does it promote a particular type of family setting.”

According to Balkan Insight, criticism of the Convention, strongest in Central and Eastern Europe and mainly by the far right and national conservatives, has little foundation in its actual content.

Using disinformation, populist rhetoric, and appeals to Christian and Islamic morality, critics have managed to reframe what is essentially a set of guidelines that creates ‘a comprehensive legal framework and approach to combat violence against women’, into a sinister attempt by Western Europeans to foist their overly-liberal policies on reluctant societies further east.

In 2021, Turkey became the first and only country to withdraw from the Convention, after denouncing it on 20 March 2021.

The Convention ceased to be effective in Turkey on 1 July 2021, following its denunciation.

On 20 March 2021, Turkish President Erdoğan announced his country’s withdrawal from the Convention by a presidential decree published in the official government gazette.

Above: Flag of Turkey

(From The Guardian, 24 November 2014:

Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan has been accused of blatant sexism after declaring that women are not equal to men and claiming feminists in Turkey reject the idea of motherhood.

The devoutly Muslim president said biological differences meant women and men could not serve the same functions, adding that manual work was unsuitable for the “delicate nature” of women.

Above: Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

His comments ignited a firestorm of controversy on Twitter and one well-known female TV news anchor even took the unusual step of condemning the remarks during a bulletin.

Above: Logo of Twitter

Our religion Islam has defined a position for women: motherhood,” Erdoğan said at a summit in Istanbul on justice for women, speaking to an audience including his own daughter Sumeyye.

Above: Sumeyye Erdoğan and daughter Esra

Some people can understand this, while others can’t.

You cannot explain this to feminists because they don’t accept the concept of motherhood.

He recalled:

I would kiss my mother’s feet because they smelled of Paradise.

She would glance coyly and cry sometimes.

Motherhood is something else,” he said, claiming that it should be a woman’s priority because Islam exalts women as mothers.

Above: Mother and son, Tenzile and Recep Erdoğan

He went on to say that women and men could not be treated equally “because it goes against the laws of nature”.

Their characters, habits and physiques are different.

You cannot place a mother breastfeeding her baby on an equal footing with men.

You cannot make women work in the same jobs as men do, as in Communist regimes.

You cannot give them a shovel and tell them to do their work.

This is against their delicate nature.

Erdoğan was apparently referring to the practice during and after the Second World War for women in Communist states such as the USSR to do heavy manual work in factories or in roles such as tram drivers.

Above: Flag of the Soviet Union (1955 – 1991)

He complained that in previous decades in Turkey women in Anatolian villages had done the back-breaking work while their menfolk idled away the time.

Wasn’t it the case in Anatolia?

Our poor mothers suffered immensely and got hunchbacks while the men were playing cards and rolling dice at teahouses,” he said.

What women need is to be able to be equivalent, rather than equal.

Because equality turns the victim into an oppressor and vice versa.”

Erdoğan has been married since 1978 to his wife Emine, with whom he has two sons and two daughters.

Above: Emine Erdoğan

Aylin Nazliaka, an MP from the main opposition Republican People’s party said Erdoğan “ostracised” women by portraying them as delicate, weak and powerless and limiting their role to motherhood.

Erdoğan has publicly committed a hate crime.

But I will continue to fight this man who sees no difference between terrorists and feminists,” she said in a written statement.

Above: Aylin Nazliaka

Sule Zeybek, an anchorwoman at the Turkish broadcaster Kanal D, hit back at Erdoğan’s comments live on television during a news bulletin.

I am a feminist and thank God I’m a mum.

I wouldn’t kiss my mother’s feet but I have great respect for her,” she said.

Above: Sule Zeybek

The Islamic-rooted government of Erdoğan has long been accused by critics of seeking to erode the country’s secular principles and limiting the civil liberties of women.

Erdoğan has drawn the ire of feminist groups for declaring that every woman in Turkey should have three children and with proposals to limit abortion rights, the morning-after pill and caesarean sections.

Seen by critics as increasingly authoritarian, he has repeatedly lashed out personally at female journalists who displeased him.

Above: Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

But the government’s attitude towards women came under even greater scrutiny after the Deputy Prime Minister, Bülent Arinç, caused a furore in August by suggesting women should not laugh loudly in public.

Above: Bülent Arinç

Activists also say that government officials’ remarks about women and how they should be treated leave them exposed to violence.

According to non-governmental organisations, more than 200 women in Turkey died as a result of domestic violence in the first six months of 2014.)

Above: Feminist protest, Istanbul, 29 July 2017

The notification for withdrawal has been reported to the Secretary-General by Turkey on 22 March 2021 and the Secretary-General has announced that denunciation will enter into force on 1 July 2021.

The withdrawal has been criticized both domestically and internationally, including by the opposition parties in the country, foreign leaders, the Council of Europe, NGOs and on social media.

The COE Secretary-General Marija Pejčinović Burić described the decision as “devastating news” and a “huge setback” that compromises the protection of women in Turkey and abroad.

Above: Marija Pejčinović Burić

A CHP spokesperson claimed that the agreement cannot be withdrawn without parliamentary approval, since it was approved by Parliament on 24 November 2011.

According to the CHP and various lawyers, the right to approve the withdrawal belongs to the Parliament according to Article 90 of the Constitution.

Above: Logo of the Republican People’s Party (CHP)

However, the government claims that the President has the authority to withdraw from international agreements as stated in Article 3 of the Presidential Decree #9.

Above: The Court of Justice, Istanbul

The decision sparked protests across Turkey and comes at a time where the domestic violence against women and femicides in the country are soaring.

US President Joe Biden described the move as “deeply disappointing“.

Above: Joe Biden

The EU’s foreign policy chief Josep Borrell urged the authorities to reverse the decision. 

Above: Josep Borrell

In an official statement, the Turkish Presidency blamed the LGBT community for the withdrawal from the Convention, arguing that:

The Istanbul Convention, originally intended to promote women’s rights, was hijacked by a group of people attempting to normalize homosexuality – which is incompatible with Turkey’s social and family values.

Hence, the decision to withdraw.

(Homosexual activity is legal in Turkey.

However, LGBT people in Turkey face discrimination, harassment and even violence from their relatives, neighbors, etc.

The Turkish authorities have carried out many discriminatory practices.

Despite these, LGBT acceptance in Turkey is growing.

In a survey conducted by Kadir Has University in Istanbul in 2016, 33% of respondents said that LGBT people should have equal rights, which increased to 45% in 2020.

Another survey by Kadir Has University in 2018 found that the proportion of people who would not want a homosexual neighbour decreased from 55% in 2018 to 47% in 2019. 

A poll by Ipsos in 2015 found that 27% of the Turkish public was in favor of legalizing same-sex marriage and 19% supported civil unions instead.

Istanbul Pride was held for the first time in 2003.

Turkey became the first Muslim-majority country to hold a gay pride march.

It was also the first gay pride in the Middle East and the Balkans.

Above: Istanbul Pride, 2013 –
Istanbul Pride was organized in 2003 for the first time.
Since 2015, parades in Istanbul were denied permission by the government.
The denials were based on security concerns, but critics claimed the bans were ideological.
Despite the refusal hundreds of people defied the ban each year.)

(In 2002, Erdoğan said that:

Homosexuals must be legally protected within the framework of their rights and freedoms.

From time to time, we do not find the treatment they get on some television screens humane.

However, in 2017 Erdoğan has said that empowering LGBT people in Turkey was “against the values of our nation“.

Above: Flag of the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender community

In 2020, amid the COVID-19 pandemic, Turkey’s top Muslim scholar and President of Religious Affairs, Ali Erbaş, said in a Friday Ramadan announcement that the country condemns homosexuality because it “brings illness“, insinuating that same sex relations are responsible for the COVID-19 pandemic.

Recep Tayyip Erdoğan backed Erbaş, saying that what Erbaş “said was totally right“.)

Above: Ali Erbaş

That view is shared by conservative groups and officials from Erdoğan’s Islamic-oriented ruling party, the AKP, who claim that the agreement is promoting homosexuality, encouraging divorce and undermining what constitutes a “sacred” family in their view. 

Above: Logo of the Justice and Development Party (AKP)

Answering to criticism over the legality of withdrawal by the Presidency instead of Parliament, Erdoğan insisted that the withdrawal was “completely legal“.

Above: Seal of the President of Turkey

On 29 June, Turkey’s top administrative court rejected a motion for stay of execution regarding Erdogan’s sole decision to withdraw from the Istanbul Convention on violence against women and ruled that it was legal for Erdoğan to withdraw the country out of the Convention since the authority to ratify and annul international agreements was among the president’s powers, according to Article 104 of the Constitution.)

Above: Logo of the Constitutional Court of Turkey

From Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust: A History of Walking:

Jean-Jacques Rousseau remarked in his Confessions:

I can only meditate when I am walking. When I stop, I cease to think. My mind only works with my legs.

Above: Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712 – 1778)

In 1749 the writer and encyclopedist Denis Diderot was thrown into jail for writing an essay questioning the goodness of God.

Above: Denis Diderot (1713 – 1784)

Rousseau, a close friend of Diderot’s at the time, took to visiting him in jail, walking the six miles from his home in Paris to the dungeon of the Château de Vincennes.

Above: Château de Vicennes

Though that summer was extremely hot, Rousseau walked because he was too poor to travel by other means.

In order to slacken my pace, I thought of taking a book with me.

One day I took the Mercure de France and, glancing through it as I walked, I came upon this question propounded by the Dijon Academy for the next year’s prize:

Has the progress of the sciences and arts done more to corrupt morals or improve them?

The moment I read that I beheld another universe and became another man.

Rousseau won the prize and the published essay became famous for its furious condemnation of such progress.

Above: Logo of the Académie des sciences, arts et humanités, Dijon

In his Discourse on Inequality, Rousseau portrays Man in his natural condition “wandering in the forests, without industry, without speech, without domicile, without war and without liaisons, with no need of his fellow men, likewise with no desire to harm them.”

In this ideology, walking functions as an emblem of the simple man and as, when the walk is solitary and rural, a means of being in nature and outside society.

The walker has the detachment of the traveller but travels unadorned and unaugmented, dependent on his or her own bodily strength rather than on conveniences that can be made and bought.

Walking is, after all, an activity essentially unimproved since the dawn of time.

Rousseau walked extensively throughout his life.

His wandering life began when he returned to Geneva from a Sunday stroll in the country, only to find that he had come back too late:

The gates of the city were shut.

Above: Geneva, Switzerland

Impulsively, the 15-year-old Rousseau decided to abandon his birthplace, his apprenticeship and eventually his religion.

He turned from the gates and walked out of Switzerland.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

In Italy and France he found and left many jobs, patrons and friends during a life that seemed aimless….

Above: Flag of Italy

Above: Flag of France

Until the day he read the Mercure de France and found his vocation.

Ever after, he seemed to be trying to recover the carefree wandering of his youth.

He writes of one episode:

I do not remember ever having had in all my life a spell of time so completely free from care and anxiety as those seven or eight days spent on the road.

This memory has left me the strongest taste for everything associated with it, for mountains especially and for travelling on foot.

I have never travelled so except in my prime and it has always been a delight to me.

He continued to walk at every opportunity.

Elsewhere he claimed:

Never did I think so much, exist so vividly and experience so much.

Never have I been so much myself as in the journeys I have taken alone and on foot.

There is something about walking that stimulates and enlivens my thoughts.

When I stay in one place I can hardly think at all.

My body has to be on the move to set my mind going.

The sight of the countryside, the succession of pleasant views, the open air, a sound appetite and the good health I gain by walking, the easy atmosphere of an inn, the absence of everything that makes me feel my dependence, of everything that recalls me to my situation – all these serve to free my spirit, to lend a greater boldness to my thinking, so that I can combine them, select them and make them mine as I will, without fear or restraint.

It was, of course, an ideal walking that Rousseau described – chosen freely by a healthy person amid pleasant and safe circumstances.

It is this kind of walking that would be taken up by his countless heirs as an expression of well-being, harmony with nature, freedom and virtue.

Rousseau portrays walking as both an exercise of simplicity and a means of contemplation.

During the time he wrote the Discourses, he would walk alone in the Bois de Boulogne after dinner, “thinking over subjects for works to be written and not returning till night“.

Above: Bois de Boulogne as seen from the Tour d’Eiffel, Paris, France

A solitary walker is in the world, but apart from it, with the detachment of the traveller rather than the ties of the worker, the dweller, the member of a group.

Walking seems to have become Rousseau’s chosen mode of being, because within a walk he is able to live in thought and reverie, to be self-sufficient, and thus to survive the world.

Walking provides him with a literal position from which to speak.

As a literary structure, the recounted walk encourages digression and association.

A century and a half later, James Joyce and Virginia Woolf would, in trying to describe the workings of the mind, develop the style called stream of consciousness.

Above: James Joyce (1882 – 1941)

Above: Virginia Woolf (1882 – 1941)

In their novels Ulysses and Mrs. Dalloway, the jumble of thoughts and recollections of their protagonists unfolds best during their walks.

This kind of unstructured, associative thinking is the kind most connected to walking.

Walking is not an analytical act but an improvisational one.

Soren Kierkegaard is the other philosopher who has much to say about walking and thinking.

He chose Copenhagen as his place to walk and study his human subjects.

The streets of Copenhagen were his reception room.

Kierkegaard’s great daily pleasure seems to have been walking the streets of his city.

It was a way to be among people for a man who could not be with them, a way to bask in the faint human warmth of brief encounters, acquaintances’ greetings and overheard conversations.

Above: Nyhavn Canal, Copenhagen, Denmark

A lone walker is both present and detached from the world around, more than an audience but less than a participant.

Walking assuages or legitimizes this alienation:

One is mildly disconnected because one is walking, not because one is incapable of connecting.

Walking provided Kierkegaard, like Rousseau, with a wealth of casual contacts with his fellow humans and it facilitated contemplation.

Kierkegaard wrote:

In order to bear mental tension as mine, I need diversion, the diversion of chance contacts on the streets and alleys, because associations with a few exclusive individuals is actually no diversion.

He proposes that the mind works best when surrounded by distraction, that it focuses in the act of withdrawing from surrounding bustle rather than in being isolated from it.

Above: Soren Kierkegaard caricature, Corsaren satirical journal, 26 August 1846

He revelled in the turbulent variety of city life.

This very moment there is an organ grinder down in the street playing and singing.

It is wonderful.

It is the accidental and insignificant things in life that are significant.

Although his extensive walks were perceived as signs of idleness, they were in fact the foundation of his prolific work.

The city strolls distracted him so that he could forget himself enough to think more productively, for his private thoughts are often convolutions of self-consciousness and despair.

In a journal passage from 1848, he described how on his way home, “overwhelmed with ideas ready to be written down and in a sense so weak that I could scarcely walk“, he would often encounter a poor man.

If he refused to speak with him, the ideas would flee.

And I would sink into the most dreadful spiritual tribulation at the idea that God could do to me what I had done to that man, but if I took the time to talk with the poor man things never went that way.”

Above: Copenhagen

Like Rousseau, Kierkegaard is a hybrid, a philosophical writer rather than a philosopher proper.

Their work is often descriptive, evocative, personal and poetically ambiguous.

It has room for delight and personality and something as specific as the sound of an organ grinder in a street or rabbits on the island of Saint Pierre on the Lake of Bienne where Rousseau lived on the estate of Ermenonville.

Above: Château d’Ermenonville

Walking is a way of grounding one’s thoughts in a personal and embodied experience of the world that lends itself to writing.

Edmund Husserl described walking as the experience by which we understand our body in relationship to the world.

The body, he said, is our experience of what is always here.

The body in motion experiences the unity of all its parts as the continuous “here” that moves toward and through the various “theres“.

It is the body that moves but the world that changes, which is how one distinguishes the body from the world.

Above: German philosopher/mathematician Edmund Husserl (1859 – 1938)

Travel can be a way to experience this continuity of self amid the flux of the world and thus to begin to understand each and their relationship to each other.

Travel is about being utterly mobile, but the postmodern body is shuttled around by airplanes and hurtling cars, not even moving around by any apparent means muscular, mechanical, economic or ecological.

The body has become nothing more than a parcel in transit, a chess piece dropped on a square.

It does not move.

It is moved.

Walking returns the body to its original limits again, to something supple, sensitive and vulnerable.

Walking itself extends into the world.

The path is an extension of walking, the places set aside for walking are monuments to that pursuit.

Walking is a mode of making the world as well as being in it.

I find myself from time to time in the midst of psychological conflict with a wife who cannot comprehend that my search for personal happiness cannot revolve around being with her constantly, that I must be fulfilled in all the roles a man must do, besides husband.

A friend has confessed to me their struggle between the desires of the day and the longings for tomorrow.

Heidi was in turmoil having just ended a relationship and finding herself wondering why she was travelling and what would happen if she stopped.

From Dan Kieran’s The Idle Traveller – The Art of Slow Travel:

Slow travel rarely goes according to plan.

Everything you encounter in your life, whether you consider it to be real or imagined, ultimately resides in thoughts and concepts in your brain.

The “real” world is far larger and more complicated than the one we are aware of.

We are all planning for tomorrow at the expense of today, which stops us from living in the moment and having to accept the imperfect nature of things as they are.

By the time we get to tomorrow, our life experiences mean what we thought we wanted has changed.

Slow travel and you are rewarded with serendipitous delights.

We can control our own image of perfection and escape the tyranny of the real world not living up to what we want it to be, but we achieve this not by trying to conquer the world we live in, but by redesigning the focus of our lives internally.

This is achieved by travelling through a landscape, being passionately in love, not falling for the ambition of “tomorrow” and accepting the lifetime pursuit of expressing your own sense of creativity.

When to comes to travel, this falling out of control beyond the comprehension of your own imagination, this is the source of everything.

Man’s real home is not a house, but the Road.

Life itself is a journey to be walked on foot.

Bruce Chatwin

Above: Bruce Chatwin (1940 – 1989)

So, my advice to Heidi, my advice to my Eskişehir friend, my advice to myself, is clear.

Go for a walk.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / The Rough Guide to Vietnam / Dan Kieran, The Idle Traveller / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / “Recep Tayyip Erdogan: Women not equal to men“, The Guardian, 24 November 2014)

Canada Slim and the Pharmacy of the Soul

Eskişehir, Turkey, Monday 18 April 2022 AD (18 Nisan 5782 AM) (18 Ramadan 1443 AH) (18 Pasar 2022 CE)

Despite this being Easter Monday (Christian calendar), the 18th day of Nisan (Jewish Passover) and the 18th day of Ramadan, religion is not a divisive issue in this city.

Generally, some fast and others feast.

Some pray and others pass the time going about their lives as if this month is merely just one of twelve in the year.

Above: Praying hands, Albrecht Dürer

To know a person’s religion we need not listen to his profession of faith but must find his brand of tolerance.

Eric Hoffer (1902 – 1993)

It is easy to be dismissive of religion, the pomp and pagentry, the ceremony and sanctimony, the folks that violate the tenets of faith in the name of that faith.

It is easy to dismiss the possibility of God whose only true proof of existence is our inability to disprove His existence.

And yet despite the faithless, despite the hypocrisy of some, despite the death, deceit and destruction committed in His Name by those unrecognizable as believers despite the masks they wear, I cannot but acknowledge the true purpose of faith, the real reason for religion, which is encapsulated in one single solitary word:

Hope.

We hope that our lives have meaning.

We hope that the pain and sorrow and suffering may lead to dignity.

We hope that we are not alone in this valley of the shadow of death.

We hope that death has meaning beyond ourselves, in spite of ourselves.

We hope that those who harm and hurt and harass others will be meted that which they dealt.

We hope that the love we shared with others will sustain us, perhaps even beyond this mortal coil.

Of the three Abrahamic religions, Judaism offers an eternal Promised Land, Islam suggests that a good person leaves behind a legacy of continuing charity and an inheritance of knowledge and a testament of righteous offspring worthy of the name, and Christianity suggests that there is a promise of an afterlife and that resurrection beyond longevity is possible.

We hope our lives have meaning.

We hope our deaths can be faced with dignity and daring.

We hope that who we are was not for naught.

And for all its flaws, for all its phonies, for all its unclarity and uncertainty and a myriad of interpretations, religion, faith, in ourselves, in desperate quest of destinies too wonderful for dreams, faith gives us all the only thing that matters:

Hope.

When you’ve fallen on the highway
And you’re lying in the rain,
And they ask you how you’re doing
Of course you’ll say you can’t complain
If you’re squeezed for information,
That’s when you’ve got to play it dumb
You just say you’re out there waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

Waiting for the Miracle“, Leonard Cohen (1934 – 2016)

I never want to be a man who steals hope.

That being said, how can anyone, such as I, sitting on the outside, possibly understand the deeper meaning of the reality of a religion if they have not personally lived it?

The answer, I have been assured by believers I have known, is personal.

Their moment of realization is beyond words.

Faith, by its very nature, is elusive.

Talk to me about the truth of religion and I will listen gladly.

Talk to me about the duty of religion and I will listen submissively.

But don’t come talking to me about the consolations of religion or I shall suspect that you don’t understand.

C. S. Lewis

Above: Clive Staples Lewis (1898 – 1963)

Here in Eskişehir, Turkey is celebrating Ramadan, a month of fasting, prayer, reflection and community.

In a religious life where faith, politics and culture are arguably more inextricably linked in any other religion, there are bound to be differences of opinion and controversial beliefs.

Essential truths can be either vaguely known, interpreted variously or just plain misunderstood.

Above: Halisi Cami (mosque), Eskişehir, Turkey

There is no reason to bring religion into it.

I think we ought to have as great a regard for religion as we can, so as to keep it out of as many things as possible.

Sean O’Casey

Above: Sean O’Casey (1880 – 1964)

The closest I have come to understanding faith in 2022 has been visits to St. Gallen, where today “half-assed Christians” (a term coined by a Catholic priest I once knew) will, for the first of only two annual visits to church – the other occasion being Christmas – will commemorate events two millennia past of a man who claimed to be the Son of God, preached and did all manner of miracles, was crucified as an enemy of the state, was resurrected and ascended to Heaven and will one day return to save the chosen few.

It is a nice story, difficult to prove, difficult to disprove.

It is a question of faith.

What do you choose to believe?

Above: Latin cross, a symbol of Christianity

It is in St. Gallen (among other places) where my faith – such as it is – finds its foundation, a harmony to my heart.

But this post is less a glorification of God as it is a monument to man, for much of the past decade found me working in St. Gallen and it is the people I have known there (and elsewhere) that have given me faith in humanity.

Perhaps the time has come to finally express my gratitude and to sing praises.

Above: Aerial view of St. Gallen, Switzerland

Sometimes I wonder if the manner in which Christianity was introduced to Switzerland is the reason why some Swiss view other faiths as so threatening to the fabric of Swiss life.

St. Gallen’s past may be a prime example of why the Swiss fear other religions following the examples of history.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Religion to me has always been the wound, not the bandage.”

Dennis Potter

Above: Dennis Potter (1935 – 1994)

The main urban centre of eastern Switzerland, St. Gallen has been described as “a relaxed provincial city set amid rolling countryside between the Appenzell hills and the Lake of Constance (Bodensee), with a beautiful old quarter“.

I agree with this description save for one word:

Relaxed.

Above: Klosterviertel (cloister quarter), Altstadt (old city), St. Gallen, Switzerland

I lived in Switzerland for a decade and much of that period was spent working in St. Gallen either as a teacher or as a barista.

Neither position was relaxing.

Above: Panoramic view of St. Gallen

As the wife and I lived in Landschlacht, a mere 15 km from the German border, we were more likely to spend our free time in Konstanz due to its closer proximity and lower costs.

Above: Landschlacht, Switzerland

St. Gallen has meant, for the most part, work, work and more work.

This is not to say that I did not make any friends during my employment there nor would I say that there weren’t some moments when I, alone or accompanied by the wife, would travel to St. Gallen for leisure activities, such as theatres, restaurants and museums.

It is nonetheless a mistake to label St. Gallen as relaxed, for it is a Swiss city, and relaxing is not something at which the Swiss generally excel.

Above: St. Gallen

The centrepiece of St. Gallen is its extraordinarily lavish Baroque abbey, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Above: Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

All the sweetness of religion is conveyed to the world by the hands of storytellers and image makers.

Without their fictions the truths of religion would for the multitude be neither intelligible nor even apprehensible.

Prophets would prophesy and the teachers teach in vain.

George Bernard Shaw

Above: George Bernard Shaw (1856 – 1950)

This has always struck me as an odd notion.

If God exists and is the Creator of all that is, why in Heaven’s name would He need to be celebrated in a lavish enclosure?

Nothing man can construct can ever compare with the majesty of nature.

If God exists then He cannot nor should not be contained with the confines of a cathedral or a Camii. (Turkish: mosque)

I have often said that within the confines of a city it is difficult to believe in God.

In the expanse of nature it is difficult to doubt that God doesn’t exist.

I think that lavish religious structures are never about glorifying God as much as they are for showing off the wealth of the community.

Do we build these magnificent temples for God’s glory?

Or for ours?

Above: Interior of the Abbey Cathedral

The Cathedral is impressive enough and serves as an ever present reminder that the city owes its name to the religious community that remains at its core.

This giant Baroque building is unmissable, its twin towers visible from most points.

Above: Kloster St. Gallen, 1769

Designed by Peter Thumb from Bregenz (Austria), it was completed in 1797 after just 12 years’ work.

Above: Peter Thumb (1681 – 1767)

Access is through the west door, although it is worth making your way around the church and looking at the outside from the enclosed Klosterhof (cloister yard), at the heart of the complex, where you can gaze up at the soaring east facade.

The interior is vast, a broad, brightly lit basilica with a triple-aisled nave and central cupola.

Although not especially high, the Cathedral has a sense of huge depth and breadth.

From the sandstone of the floor and the wood of the pews, fancy light-green stuccowork – characteristic of churches in the Konstanz region – draws your eye up the massive double-width pillars to the array of frescoes on the ceiling, which are almost entirely the work of one artist, Josef Wannenmacher.

The central cupola shows Paradise with the Holy Trinity, apostles and saints.

Above: Rotunda, Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

(“And the three men I admire the most

The Father, Son and the Holy Ghost

They took the last train for the coast

The day the music died“)

Don McLean

Details throughout the rest of the Cathedral are splendid:

  • the ornate choir screen
  • the richly-carved walnut-wood confessionals
  • the intricate choir stalls
  • at the back at the choir, the high altar flanked by black marble columns with gold trim

The south altar features a bell brought by Gall(us) on his 7th-century journey from Ireland.

Above: Inside the Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

Gall’s origin is a matter of dispute.

It is all a matter of what you choose to believe.

According to his 9th-century biographers in Reichenau, he was from Ireland and entered Europe as a companion of Columbanus (Columba).

Above: St. Peter and St. Paul Church, Reichenau Island, Germany

The Irish origin of the historical Gall was called into question by Gerrold Hilty (2001), who proposed it as more likely that he was from the Vosges or Alsace region.

Max Schär (2010) proposed that Gall may have been of Irish descent but born and raised in the Alsace.

Above: (in red) Location of the Alsace region, France

According to the 9th-century hagiographies, Gall as a young man went to study at Bangor Abbey.

The monastery at Bangor had become renowned throughout Europe as a great centre of Christian learning.

Above: Bangor Abbey, Northern Ireland

Studying in Bangor at the same time as Gall was Columbanus, who with 12 companions, set out about the year 589.

Gall and his companions established themselves with Columbanus at first at Luxeuil in Gaul.

Above: Bobbio Abbey (Italy) stained glass image of Columbanus (543 – 615)

Above: Cloister area, Luxeuil Abbey, France

In 610, Columbanus was exiled by leaders opposed to Christianity and fled with Gall to Alemannia. 

Due to dynastic conflicts between Theuderic II (587 – 613) and his brother Theudebert II (585 – 612), Columbanus lost support in the Frankish Empire and had to leave Luxeuil. 

The further missionary journey led the community around Columban from Metz up the Rhine and via Zürich and Tuggen finally via Arbon to Bregenz. 

Above: Metz, France

Above: Altstadt Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Tuggen, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

In Bregenz, as in Arbon, they met a Christian community that had partially returned to paganism. 

Gall preached in the Alemannic language, in contrast to Columbanus, who did not speak it. 

Here, and before that in Tuggen, the religious people destroyed the statues of the local deities and threw them into the lake. 

As a result, these messengers of the faith antagonized some of the inhabitants, who complained to their Duke Gunzo. 

Two monks were killed after being ambushed.

(They were chasing a missing cow into the forest.)

The founding of a monastery in Bregenz failed and Columbanus traveled on to Bobbio in Italy in 612 to found a monastery at the invitation of the Lombard prince.

Above: Alemannia (orange) and Upper Burgundy (green), circa 1000 CE

Above: Bobbio, Italy

When Columbanus, Gall and their companions left Ireland for mainland Europe, they took with them learning and the written word.

Their effect on the historical record was significant as the books were painstakingly reproduced on vellum by monks across Europe.

Many of the Irish texts destroyed in Ireland during Viking raids were preserved in abbeys across the Channel.

Gall accompanied Columbanus on his voyage up the Rhine River to Bregenz, but when in 612 Columbanus travelled on to Italy from Bregenz, Gall had to remain behind due to illness and was nursed at Arbon.

Above: Columbanus and Gall on Lake Constance (Bodensee)

Above: Course of the Rhine River

Above: A view of modern Bregenz, Austria

Above: A view of modern Arbon, Switzerland

Gall remained in Alemannia, where, with several companions, he led the life of a hermit in the forests southwest of Lake Constance, near the source of the River Steinach.

Above: Steinach River, Mühlegg Gorge, St. Gallen

Cells were soon added for twelve monks whom Gall carefully instructed.

Gall was soon known in Switzerland as a powerful preacher.

When the See of Constance became vacant, the clergy who assembled to elect a new Bishop were unanimously in favour of Gall.

He, however, refused, pleading that the election of a stranger would be contrary to Church law.

Some time later, in the year 625, on the death of Eustasius, Abbott of Luxeuil, a monastery founded by Columbanus, members of that community were sent by the monks to request Gall to undertake the government of the monastery.

He refused to quit his life of solitude, and undertake any office of rank which might involve him in the cares of the world.

He was then an old man.

He died at the age of 95, circa 650, in Arbon.

His grave became a site of pilgrimage.

The supposed day of his death, 16 October, is still commemorated as Gallus Day.

Above: Gall, Tuggen coat of arms

From as early as the 9th century the fantastically embroidered Life of Saint Gallus was circulated.

Prominent was the story in which Gall delivered Fridiburga from a demon by which she was possessed.

Fridiburga was the betrothed of Sigibert III, King of the Franks, who had granted an estate at Arbon (which belonged to the royal treasury) to Gall so that he might found a monastery there.

Fridiburga was the daughter of the Alemannic Duke Gunzo. 

She was engaged to the Merovingian King Sigibert III (638 – 656), but she fell seriously ill shortly before the wedding. 

According to the Life of St. Gallus, Sigibert sent two bishops with rich gifts to Fridiburga to free her from the demon of illness, but in vain. 

Shortly afterwards, when Gall came to Überlingen, site of the Duke’s court, he healed Fridiburga. 

Above: Überlingen, Germany

She was then taken to Metz, where she was taken from the royal palace to the church of St. Stephen. 

On the advice of the bishops, Sigibert renounced his marriage to Fridiburga and then married Chimnechild in 646. 

Fridiburga lived as a nun in the Metz monastery of St. Peter, where she would became its abbess.

Above: Church of Saint Pierre aux Nonnains, Metz, France

Circa 612, Gall was, according to the lore, travelling south from the Bodensee into the forest.

Legend has it that Gall either fell over, or stumbled into, a briar patch.

After a long stay in Arbon, Gall decided in 612, together with the deacon Hiltibod of Arbon, to follow the Steinach River, which flows into Lake Constance

They moved along the stream into the Arbon forest – the whole area from Lake Constance to Appenzellerland was primeval forest at the time – and came to the waterfall at the Mühleggschlucht (mill slope canyon) gorge. 

Here Gall stumbled and fell into a thorn bush. 

He interpreted this as a divine sign to stay here. 

Above: Beginning of Mühleggschlucht Gorge near St. Georgen, Switzerland

Many depictions of Gall are therefore subtitled with the Latin Vulgate Bible verse:

Haec requies mea in saeculum saeculi.

Hic habitabo quoniam elegi eam.

(This is my resting place forever. 

I want to live here because I like it.)

Psalm 132: 14

Above: 8th century Vulgate Bible

Above: St. Gall and the founding of the monastery

Gall was sitting one evening warming his hands at a fire.

A bear emerged from the woods and charged.

The holy man rebuked the bear, so awed by his presence it stopped its attack and slunk off to the trees.

There it gathered firewood before returning to share the heat of the fire with Gall.

The legend says that for the rest of his days Gall was followed around by his companion the bear.

Images of Gall typically represent him standing with a bear.

Above: St. Gall with a bear

So either clumsiness or a trained bear led Gall to feel that he had received a sign from God – It’s nice that God has someone to communicate with. – and so chose the site to build his hermitage.

I guess nothing says security and sanctity more than accidental briar patches and firewood-fetching bears.

Above: Lyrics from “One of Us“, Joan Osborne

Afterwards, the people venerated Gall as a saint and prayed at his tomb for his intercession in times of danger.

After his death, a small church was erected, which developed into the Abbey of St. Gall, the nucleus of the Canton of St. Gallen.

The city of St. Gallen originated as an adjoining settlement of the Abbey.

Above: Plaque in honour of Gall, St. Gallen

Following Gall’s death, Charles Martel (688 – 741) had Othmar (689 – 759) appointed as custodian of St Gall’s relics.

Above: Charles Martel (688 – 741)

Othmar was of Alemannic descent, received his education in Rhaetia (Chur), was ordained priest, and for a time presided over a church in Rhaetia (Chur).

Above: Chur Cathedral

In 720 Waltram of Thurgau appointed Othmar superior over the cell of St. Gall and custodian of St Gall’s relics.

Othmar united into a monastery the monks that lived about the cell of St. Gall, according to the Rule of St. Columban, and became their first abbot.

Above: Collegiate Church of St. Gall and St. Othmar

He added a hospital and a school, which became the foundation upon which the famous Stiftsbibliothek (Monastery library) was built.

Above: The northwest wing of the monastery district from the outside – the Abbey Library is on the first and second floor

In 747, as a part of the reform movement of Church institutions in Alamannia, he introduced the Benedictine Rule, which was to remain in effect until the secularization and closure of the monastery in 1805.

Above: The oldest copy of the Rule of Saint Benedict, from the 8th century, Bodleian Library, Oxford, England

Othmar also provided for the needs of the surrounding community, building an almshouse as well as the first leprosarium (hospice for lepers) in Switzerland.

Above: Spinalonga, Crete, one of the last leper colonies in Europe, closed in 1957

When Carloman (713 – 754) renounced his throne in 747, he visited Othmar at St. Gall and gave him a letter to his brother Pepin (714 – 768), recommending Othmar and his monastery to the King’s liberality.

Othmar personally brought the letter to Pepin, and was kindly received.

Above: Charles Martel divides the realm between Pepin and Carloman

In 759, Counts Warin and Ruodhart tried to gain possession of some property belonging to St. Gall, Othmar fearlessly resisted their demands.

Hereupon they captured him while he was on a journey to Konstanz, and held him prisoner, first at the castle of Bodmann, then on the island of Werd in the Rhine River.

Above: Werd Island

At the latter place he died, after an imprisonment of six months, and was buried.

Above: Martyrdom of St. Othmar

Othmar’s cult began to spread soon after his death.

He is one of the most popular saints in Switzerland.

In 769 his body was transferred to the Monastery of St. Gall.

As the weather was very hot, when the men rowed his body across Lake Constance (Bodensee), they became extremely thirsty.

Legends say that the only barrel of wine they had left did not become empty, regardless of how much they drank.

Therefore, the wine barrel became one of Othmar’s attributes.

His cult was officially recognized in 864 by Bishop of Konstanz Solomon I (d. 871).

Above: Othmar of St. Gallen

Interesting side note connected with Solomon I:

In 847, his diocese was the first to be disturbed by the preachings of a false prophetess named Thiota.

Above: Cathedral of Konstanz, Germany

Thiota was a heretical Christian prophetess originally from Alemannia.

In 847 she began prophesying that the world would end that year.

Her story is known from the Annales Fuldenses which records that she disturbed the diocese of Solomon before arriving in Mainz.

A large number of men and women were persuaded by her “presumption” as well as even some clerics.

In fear, many gave her gifts and sought prayers.

Finally, the bishops of Gallica Belgica ordered her to attend a synod in St Alban’s Church in Mainz.

She was eventually forced to confess that she had only made up her predictions at the urging of a priest and for lucrative gain.

She was publicly flogged and stripped of her ministry, which the Fuldensian annalist says she had taken up “unreasonably against the customs of the Church.”

Shamed, she ceased to prophesy thereafter.

Above: 11th century Carolina copy Annales Fuldenses, Humanist Library, Schlettstadt, Alsace, France
The report is open for the year 855 with the earthquake in Mainz.

In 867 Othmar was solemnly entombed in the new church of St. Othmar at St. Gall.

He is represented in art as a Benedictine abbot, generally holding a little barrel in his hand, an allusion to the alleged miracle, that a barrel of Othmar never became empty, no matter how much he took from it to give to the poor.

Above: Statue of St. Othmar

Two monks of the Abbey of St Gall, Magnus von Füssen and Theodor, founded the monasteries in Füssen and Kempten in the Allgäu region.

Above: Statue of Magnus of Füssen

Above: St. Lawrence Church, Kempten Abbey, Allgäu, Bavaria, Germany

With the increase in the number of monks the Abbey grew stronger also economically.

Much land in Thurgau, Zürichgau, and in the rest of Alemannia as far as the Neckar River was transferred to the Abbey.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

Under Abbot Waldo of Reichenau (740 – 814) copying of manuscripts was undertaken and a famous library was gathered.

Numerous Anglo-Saxon and Irish monks came to copy manuscripts here.

Above: Abbot Waldo of Reichenau meets Charlemagne

At Charlemagne’s (747 – 814) request, Pope Adrian I (700 – 795) sent distinguished chanters from Rome, who propagated the use of the Gregorian chant.

Above: 15th century miniature depicting Pope Adrian I greeting Charlemagne

In 744, the Alemannic nobleman Beata sold several properties to the Abbey in order to finance his journey to Rome.

Above: St. Peter’s Cathedral, Vatican City

In the 830s, under Abbot Gozbert (d. 850), Saint Gall became a cultural centre, as many still existing documents from his time affirm.

He paid special attention to the Abbey Library and had close ties to one of the main scribes there, Wolfcoz.

Above: Abbey Library

Wolfcoz I was a medieval scribe and painter of illuminated manuscripts, working in the scriptorium of the Abbey of Saint Gall.

He entered the monastery some time before 813.

Fourteen known documents by Wolfcoz’s hand were created between 816 and 822, including parts of the Wolfcoz Psalter and the Zürich Psalter.

In Wolfcoz’ time, the scriptorium of the Abbey entered a golden age, producing manuscripts of high quality and establishing the Abbey Library of Saint Gall as a centre of Alemannic German culture.

The Abbey Library still has three manuscripts penned by Wolfcoz. 

He developed the Allemanic minuscule and also the decoration of initials.

Above: Scribe in a scriptorium, Miracles de Notre Dame

Gozbert was the recipient (and employer?) of the Plan of Saint Gall, which was made around 820 in Reichenau.

How closely his monastery actually resembled this ideal plan is unknown. 

Above: The Carolingian monastery plan of St. Gallen is the oldest surviving architectural drawing in the West

The monastery was eventually freed from its dependence upon the Bishopric of Konstanz.

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Konstanz

King Louis the Pious confirmed in 833 the immunity of the Abbey and allowed the monks the free choice of their abbot.

Above: King Louis / Ludwig the Pious (778 – 840)

In 854, finally, the Abbey of St Gall reached its full autonomy by King Louis the German (806 – 876) releasing the Abbey from the obligation to pay tithes to the Bishop of Konstanz.

Above: Louis the German (bottom) genuflecting at Christ on the cross

From this time until the 10th century, the Abbey flourished.

It was home to several famous scholars, including Notker of Liège (940 – 1008), Notker the Stammerer (840 – 912), Notker Labeo (950 – 1022), Tuotilo (850 – 915) and Hartker (who developed the antiphonal liturgical books (choir books) for the Abbey).

Above: Notker of Liège

Above: Notker the Stammerer

Above: Notker Labeo

Above: Copy of Tuotilo’s Cod. Sang. 53, Abbey Library, St. Gallen

Above: Printed antiphonary (ca. 1700), open to Vespers of Easter Sunday, Musée de l’Assistance Publique, Hôpitaux de Paris

During the 9th century a new, larger Church was built and the Library was expanded.

Manuscripts on a wide variety of topics were purchased by the Abbey and copies were made.

Over 400 manuscripts from this time have survived and are still in the Library today.

Above: Abbey Library

Emperor Louis the Pious (778 – 840) made the monastery an imperial institution.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

In 926 the Magyars threatened the Abbey and the books had to be removed to Reichenau for safety.

Above: Hungarian invasions, 9th and 10th centuries CE

Not all the books were returned.

Above: Aerial view of Reichenau Island

Hungarian troops entered Swabia, as allies of the new Italian King, Hugh the Great (880 – 947), besieged Augsburg, and then occupied the Abbey of Saint Gallen, where they spared the life of the monk Heribald, whose accounts give a detailed description about their traditions and way of life. 

Above: Hugh the Great

Above: Town Hall Palace, Augsburg, Germany

The “Golden Age” of St. Gallen ended abruptly on 1 May 926, after travellers reported in the spring that the Hungarians were already advancing on their campaigns as far as Lake Constance. 

Since the dukes could not build up a joint defense in the divided East Frankish kingdom, they had nothing to oppose the plundering and pillaging gangs.

Above: Division of the Frankish Empire, 843

Abbot Engilbert decided to bring the students, the elderly and the sick to safety in the moated castle near Lindau, which belonged to the monastery.

Above: Lindau Island, Germany

Many of the writings were hidden in the friendly monastery of Reichenau.

The monks took themselves and the valuable cult objects to a refuge of safety in the Sitterswald. 

Above: Catholic Church, Sitterswald, Switzerland

At her express request, the hermit Wiborada was the only one left behind in the walled-up church of St. Mangen in the deserted town.

Above: St. Mangen Church, St. Gallen

From the Abbey the Magyars sent minor units to reconnoitre and plunder the surroundings.

When the Hungarians raided the city, they found nothing of value. 

They damaged buildings and altars and burned down the town’s wooden houses. 

The attackers also found Wiborada, but no entrance to their walled-up hermitage. 

Fire couldn’t harm her or the church, so the Hungarians uncovered the roof and killed her. 

The Hungarians did not dare to attack the monks’ refuge because of its inaccessible location. 

They were even attacked by the retreating monks. 

After the Hungarians left, the monks returned with the residents and rebuilt the damaged and burnt down houses. 

One of their units killed Wiborada who lived as an anchoress (female hermit) in a wood nearby.

Above: Church of St. Mangen

Wiborada was born to a wealthy noble family in Swabia.

When they invited the sick and poor into their home, Wiborada proved a capable nurse.

Her brother Hatto became a priest.

A pilgrimage to Rome influenced Hatto to decide to become a monk at the Abbey of Saint Gall, a decision which Wiborada supported.

After the death of their parents, Wiborada joined Hatto and became a Benedictine at the Abbey of Saint Gall.

Above: Portrayal of the young Ulrich with Wiborada

Wiborada became settled at the monastery and Hatto taught her Latin so that she could chant the Liturgy of the Hours.

There, she occupied herself by making Hatto’s clothes and helping to bind many of the books in the monastery library.

At this time, it appears that Wiborada was charged with some type of serious infraction or wrongdoing, and was subjected to the medieval practice of ordeal by fire to prove her innocence.

(Ordeal by fire was one form of torture.

The ordeal of fire typically required that the accused walk a certain distance, usually 9 feet (2.7 metres) or a certain number of paces, usually three, over red-hot ploughshares or holding a red-hot iron.

Innocence was sometimes established by a complete lack of injury, but it was more common for the wound to be bandaged and re-examined three days later by a priest, who would pronounce that God had intervened to heal it, or that it was merely festering — in which case the suspect would be exiled ot put to death.)

Above: After being accused of adultery Cunigunde of Luxembourg (975 – 104) proved her innocence by walking over red-hot ploughshares.

Although she was exonerated, the embarrassment probably influenced her next decision: withdrawing from the world and becoming an ascetic.

When she petitioned to become an anchoress, Solomon III, Bishop of Konstanz (r. 890 – 919), arranged for her to stay in a cell next to the Church of Saint George near the monastery, where she remained for four years before relocating to a cell adjoining the church of Magnus of Füssen in 891.

She became renowned for her austerity, and was said to have a gift of prophecy, both of which drew admirers and hopeful students.

Above: Wiborada with Solomon III, Bishop of Konstanz

One of these, a woman named Rachildis, whom Wiborada had cured of a disease, joined her as an anchoress.

Above: Healing of a sick person with the comb relic of Wiborada

A young student at St. Gall, Ulrich (890 – 973), is said to have visited Wiborada often.

Wiborda supposedly prophesied his elevation to the Episcopate of Augsburg.

(Ulrich was the first saint to be canonized not by a local authority but by the Pope.)

Above: Statue of Ulrich von Augsburg (890 – 973), St. Agatha Chapel, Disentis, Graubünden, Switzerland

In 925, Wiborada predicted a Hungarian invasion of her region.

Her warning allowed the priests and religious of St. Gall and St. Magnus to hide their books and wine and escape into caves in nearby hills. 

The most precious manuscripts were transferred to the monastery at Reichenau Island.

However, the main refuge castle for the monks and the Abbot was the Waldburg in the Sitterwood.

Abbot Engilbert urged Wiborada to escape to safety, but she refused to leave her cell.

On 8 May 926 the Magyar marauders reached St. Gall.

They burned down St. Magnus and broke into the roof of Wiborada’s cell.

Upon finding her kneeling in prayer, they clove her skull with a fokos (shepherd’s axe).

Above: Earliest representation of Wiborada

Her companion Rachildis was not killed, and lived another 21 years, during which her disease returned.

She spent the rest of her life learning patience through suffering.

Wiborada’s refusal to leave her cell and the part she played in saving the lives of the priests and religious of her convent have merited her the title of martyr.

Above: The martyrdom of Wiborada

On 26 April 937, a fire broke out and destroyed much of the Abbey and the adjoining settlement, though the library was undamaged.

About 954 they started to protect the monastery and buildings by a surrounding wall.

Circa 974 Abbot Notker (r. 971 – 975) (about whom almost nothing is known, except that he was the nephew of Notker Physicus (d. 975) – “the physician“) finalized the walling.

The adjoining settlements started to become the town of St Gall. 

Above: Abbey and surroundings, St. Gallen

The Abbey was the northernmost place where a sighting of the 1006 supernova was recorded, likely the brightest observed stellar event in recorded history.

Above: Remnant of Supernova 1006

In 1207, Abbot Ulrich von Sax was made a Prince of the Holy Roman Empire by King Philip of Germany (1177 – 1208).

Above: Coat of arms of the von Sax dynasty

The Abbey thus became a Princely Abbey (Reichsabtei).

As the Abbey became more involved in politics, it entered a period of decline.

Above: Philip of Swabia (1177 – 1208)

The city of St. Gallen proper progressively freed itself from the rule of the Abbot, acquiring imperial immediacy, and by the late 15th century was recognized as a Free Imperial City.

By 1353 the guilds, headed by the cloth weavers guild, gained control of the civic government.

In 1415 the City bought its liberty from German King Sigismund (1368 – 1437).

During the 14th century Humanists were allowed to carry off some of the rare texts from the Abbey Library.

Above: Sigismund of Luxembourg (1368 – 1437)

In the late 14th and early 15th centuries, the farmers of the Abbot’s personal estates (known as Appenzell, from the Latin abbatis cella meaning “cell (i.e. estate) of the Abbot“) began seeking independence.

In 1401, the first of the Appenzell Wars (1401 – 1429) broke out, and following the Appenzell victory at Stoss in 1405 they became allies of the Swiss Confederation in 1411.

Above: Battle of Vögelinsegg

Above: Battle of Stoss Pass (1405) Memorial

During the Appenzell Wars, the town of St. Gallen often sided with Appenzell against the Abbey.

So when Appenzell allied with the Confederation, the town of St. Gallen followed just a few months later.

The Abbey became an ally of several members of the Swiss Confederation (Zürich, Luzern, Schwyz and Glarus) in 1451, while Appenzell and St. Gallen became full members of the Swiss Confederation in 1454.

In 1457 the town of St. Gallen became officially free from the Abbey.

Above: Coat of arms of the City of St. Gallen

In 1468 Abbot Ulrich Rösch bought the County of Toggenburg from the representative of its counts, after the family died out in 1436.

In 1487 Rösch founded a monastery at Rorschach on Lake Constance, to which he planned to move.

Above: Rorschach, Switzerland

However, he encountered stiff resistance from the St. Gallen citizenry, other clerics, and the Appenzell nobility in the Rhine Valley who were concerned about their holdings.

Above: Abbot Ulrich Rösch (1463 – 1491)

The town of St. Gallen wanted to restrict the increase of power of the Abbey and simultaneously increase the power of the town.

The Mayor of St. Gallen, Ulrich Varnbüler, established contact with farmers and Appenzell residents (led by the fanatical Hermann Schwendiner) who were seeking an opportunity to weaken the Abbot.

Initially, Varnbüler protested to the Abbot and the representatives of the four sponsoring Confederate cantons (Zürich, Lucerne, Schwyz, and Glarus) against the construction of the new Abbey in Rorschach.

Then on 28 July 1489 he had armed troops from St. Gallen and Appenzell destroy the buildings already under construction.

Above: Portrait of Ulrich Varnbüler (1432 – 1496), Albrecht Dürer

When the Abbot complained to the Confederates about the damages and demanded full compensation, Varnbüler responded with a counter suit and in cooperation with Schwendiner rejected the arbitration efforts of the non-partisan Confederates.

He motivated the clerics from Wil to Rorschach to discard their loyalty to the Abbey and spoke against the Abbey at a town meeting in Waldkirch, where the popular league was formed.

He was confident that the four sponsoring cantons would not intervene with force, due to the prevailing tensions between the Confederation and the Swabian League.

He was strengthened in his resolve by the fact that the people of St. Gallen elected him again to the highest magistrate in 1490.

Above: The Abbot’s coat of arms

However, in early 1490 the four cantons decided to carry out their duty to the Abbey and to invade the St. Gallen canton with an armed force.

The people of Appenzell and the local clerics submitted to this force without noteworthy resistance, while the city of St. Gallen braced for a fight to the finish.

However, when they learned that their compatriots had given up the fight, they lost confidence.

The end result was that they concluded a peace pact that greatly restricted the city’s powers and burdened the city with serious penalties and reparations payments.

Above: Old houses of St. Gallen

Varnbüler and Schwendiner fled to the court of King Maximilian (1459 – 1519) and lost all their property in St. Gallen and Appenzell.

However, the Abbot’s reliance on the Swiss to support him reduced his position almost to that of a “subject district“.

Above: Maxmilian I, Holy Roman Emperor

The town adopted the Reformation in 1524, while the Abbey remained Catholic, which damaged relations between the town and Abbey.

Both the Abbot and a representative of the town were admitted to the Swiss Tagsatzung (parliament) as the closest associates of the Confederation.

In the 16th century the Abbey was raided by Calvinist groups, who scattered many of the old books. 

Above: Tadsatzung, Baden, 1531

In 1530, Abbot Diethelm began a restoration that stopped the decline and led to an expansion of the schools and library.

Under Abbot Pius Reher (r. 1630 – 1654) a printing press was started.

Above: Pius Reher (1597 – 1654)

In 1712 during the Toggenburg War (also called the Second War of Villmergen), the Abbey of St. Gall was pillaged by the Confederation.

They took most of the books and manuscripts to Zürich and Bern.

For security, the Abbey was forced to request the protection of the townspeople of St. Gallen.

Until 1457 the townspeople had been serfs of the Abbey, but they had grown in power until they were protecting the Abbey.

Above: Toggenburg War map – Protestant (green) / Catholic (yellow) / Neutral (grey)

Following the disturbances, the Abbey was still the largest religious city-state in Switzerland, with over 77,000 inhabitants.

A final attempt to expand the abbey resulted in the demolition of most of the medieval monastery.

The new structures, including the Cathedral by architect Peter Thumb (1681–1766), were designed in the late Baroque style and constructed between 1755 and 1768.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

The large and ornate new Abbey did not remain a monastery for very long.

In 1798 the Prince-Abbot’s secular power was suppressed and the Abbey was secularized.

The monks were driven out and moved into other abbeys.

The Abbey became a separate See (a bishop’s ecclesiastical jurisdiction) in 1846, with the Abbey church as its Cathedral and a portion of the monastic buildings reserved for the Bishop.

Above: Abbey

The Abbey of St. Gall, the monastery and especially its celebrated scriptorium played an illustrious part in Catholic and intellectual history until it was secularised in 1798.

The former Abbey church became a Cathedral in 1848.

Since 1983 the abbey precinct has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as “a perfect example of a great Carolingian monastery”.

Above: Abbey

St. Gall is the name of a wheel shaped hard cheese made from the milk of Friesian cows, which won a Gold Medal at the World Cheese Awards held in Dublin 2008.

Canadian writer Robertson Davies, in his book, The Manticore, interprets the legend in Swiss psychologist Carl Jung (1875 – 1961) terms.

In the final scene of the novel where David Staunton is celebrating Christmas with Lizelloti Fitziputli, Magnus Eisengrim, and Dunstan Ramsay, he is given a gingerbread bear.

Ramsay explains that Gall made a pact of peace with a bear who was terrorizing the citizens of the nearby village.

They would feed the bear gingerbread and the bear would refrain from eating them.

The parable is presented as a Jungian exhortation to make peace with one’s dark side.

This Jungian interpretation is however incompatible with Catholic Orthodoxy which Gall promoted.

It is all a matter of what you choose to believe.

Even today, the Abbey Library is celebrated as Switzerland’s finest secular Rococo interior and one of the oldest libraries in Europe with its huge collection of rare medieval books and manuscripts.

The visitor enters beneath a sign that reads YUCHS IATREION (Greek for “Pharmacy of the Soul).

By the entrance are dozens of oversized felt grey slippers.

Slip your shoe-clad feet into a pair, to protect the inlaid wooden floor.

The 28m X 10m room is dynamic.

Designed by the same Peter Thumb who worked on the Cathedral, the Library’s orthodox Baroque architecture is overlaid with opulent Rococo decoration.

The four ceiling frescoes by Josef Wannenmacher depict with bold trompe l’oeil perspectives the early Christian theological Councils of Nicaea (modern Iznik, Turkey), Constantinople (modern Istanbul), Ephesus (modern Selçuk, Turkey), and Chalcedon (Kadiköy district, Istanbul).

Above: The Council of Nicaea, with Arius depicted as defeated by the council, lying under the feet of Emperor Constantine

Above: Miniature of the Council of Constantinople (AD 381). Emperor Theodosius I and a crowd of bishops seated on a semicircular bench, on either side of an enthroned Gospel Book. An heretic, Macedonius, occupies the lower left corner of the miniature.

Above: Council of Ephesus (431)

Above: Council of Chalcedon (451)

Among the wealth of smaller frescoes set among the ceiling stucco, in the corner directly above the entrance door, you will spot the Venerable Bede, a 7th century English monk from Northumbria who wrote one of the first histories of England.

Above: The Venerable Bede (672 – 735), The Last Chapter, J. Boyle Penrose

Above: Statue of the Venerable Bede, St. Gallen Abbey

The books are ranged on floor-to-ceiling shelves all around.

Its list of cultural treasures among its over 160,000 volumes is extraordinary.

There are more Irish manuscripts in St. Gallen than there are in Dublin, with 15 handwritten examples including a Latin manuscript of the Gospels dating from 750.

Other works include:

  • an astronomical textbook written in 300 BCE
  • copies made in the 5th century of works by Virgil, Horace and other classical authors
  • texts written by the Venerable Bede in his original Northumbrian language
  • the oldest book to have survived in German, dating from the 8th century

Above: Abbey Library

One of the more interesting documents in the Stiftsbibliothek is a copy of Priscian’s (circa 500) Institutiones grammaticae, (the standard textbook for the study of Latin during the Middle Ages), which contains the poem Is acher in gaith in-nocht, written in Old Irish.

Above: Institutiones Grammaticae, 1290, Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, Firenze (Florence), Italy

The Library also preserves a unique 9th century document, known as the Plan of St. Gall, the only surviving major architectural drawing from the roughly 700-year period between the fall of the Western Roman Empire and the 13th century.

The Plan drawn was never actually built, and was so named because it was kept at the famous medieval monastery library, where it remains to this day.

The Plan was an ideal of what a well-designed and well-supplied monastery should have, as envisioned by one of the synods held at Aachen (814 – 817) for the reform of monasticism in the Frankish Empire during the early years of Emperor Louis the Pious.

Above: Plan of Saint Gall (simplified)

A late 9th century drawing of St. Paul lecturing an agitated crowd of Jews and Gentiles, part of a copy of a Pauline epistles produced at and still held by the Monastery, was included in a medieval drawing show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City in the summer of 2009.

A reviewer noted that the artist had “a special talent for depicting hair, with the saint’s beard ending in curling droplets of ink“.

Above: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City

St. Gall is noted for its early use of the neume, the basic element of Western and Eastern systems of musical notation prior to the invention of five-line staff notation.

The earliest extant manuscripts are from the 9th or 10th century.

A few treasures of the Library are displayed in glass cases, with exhibits changed regularly.

Incongruously (as in “What the Hell is this doing here?“), there is an Egyptian mummy dating from 700 BCE, a gift to the mayor of St. Gallen in the early 19th century.

Unsure of what to do with it, he plonked it in this corner of the Library, where it has since remained.

Above: Abbey Library

Diagonally opposite stands a beautifully intricate 2.3m-high globe depicting both celestial and earthly maps.

It is, in fact, a replica.

The original, dating from 1570, was stolen by Zürich troops in 1712 and stands in the National Museum.

To resolve the dispute, Canton Zürich agreed to produce this copy, which was completed in 2009.

Above: Abbey Library

I find myself thinking of the reverence that is given to copies.

A globe is replicated and its replication is mentioned in the smallest print possible with the least fanfare required.

Those who do not question its authenticity need not know it isn’t the original.

This leads to me to ponder:

How far from the origins of our religions have we strayed?

We are told that Christ existed but the proof lies solely in the Gospels which promote His Name.

We are told that Muhammad existed but it is blasphemy to even sketch a likeness of how the Prophet may have looked.

We choose to believe in that which we can neither prove nor disprove.

Much like love, faith is manifested not in what is professed but rather by how it is manifested in the lives of its true believers.

By deeds we decide our dedication.

By actions we activate our ardour.

Above: Prevailing world religions map

All of which leaves me thinking of the Chris Nolan film The Dark Knight….

It’s not about what I want, it’s about what’s FAIR!

You thought we could be decent men in an indecent time.

But you were wrong.

The world is cruel and the only morality in a cruel world is chance.

Unbiased, unprejudiced, fair.

Above: Aaron Eckhart as Harvey Dent/Two Face, The Dark Knight

Because sometimes…

The truth isn’t good enough.

Sometimes people deserve more.

Sometimes people deserve to have their faith rewarded.

Above: Christian Bale as Batman / Bruce Wayne, The Dark Knight

Perhaps this is why we build cathedrals and mosques and temples?

To show how our faith has rewarded us?

Above: Ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Nothing left to do
When you know that you’ve been taken
Nothing left to do
When you’re begging for a crumb
Nothing left to do
When you’ve got to go on waiting
Waiting for the miracle to come

Waiting for the Miracle“, Leonard Cohen

Above: Leonard Cohen (1934 – 2016)

According to the 2000 census, 31,978 or 44.0% were Roman Catholic, while 19,578 or 27.0% belonged to the Swiss Reformed Church.

Of the rest of the population, there were 112 individuals (or about 0.15% of the population) who belong to the Christian Catholic faith, there were 3,253 individuals (or about 4.48% of the population) who belong to the Orthodox Church, and there were 1,502 individuals (or about 2.07% of the population) who belong to another Christian church.

There were 133 individuals (or about 0.18% of the population) who were Jewish, and 4,856 (or about 6.69% of the population) who were Muslim.

There were 837 individuals (or about 1.15% of the population) who belonged to another church (not listed on the census), 7,221 (or about 9.94% of the population) belonged to no church, were agnostic or atheist, and 3,156 individuals (or about 4.35% of the population) did not answer the question.

There are 28 sites in St. Gallen that are listed as Swiss Heritage Sites of National Significance, including four religious buildings:

  • the Abbey of St. Gallen

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

  • the former Dominican Abbey of St. Katharina

The St. Gallen Monastery of St. Catherine has had a turbulent history since it was founded in 1228.

The founding document dates dates back to 30 June 1228.

It is a late Gothic splendour – beautiful and one of the oldest buildings in the city.

The history of the order goes back to the 13th and 14th centuries.

The monastery was named after the martyr Catherine of Alexandria.

Until 1266 St. Catherine was a monastery of the Augustinians, until in 1368 the resident nuns adopted the Dominican rule.

The great fire of 20 April 1418 greatly affected the monastery.

The last woman entering the monastery, Katharina von Watt, was a sister of the longtime Mayor and patron of the Reformation, Joachim von Watt (Vadian).

In 1527 the monastery became a victim of the Reformation:

Council servants commissioned by the authorities entered into the monastery church and destroyed the cult objects.

In 1555 the last sisters left the St. Gallen Monastery of St. Catherine.

Today only the cloister and the church have survived from the monastery complex.

You can walk through the cloister and there is a library which can be visited.

There is also a old church (of course) but the opening times are said to be very special…

Above: The Monastery of St. Catherine, St. Gallen

  • the Reformed Church of St. Lawrence

The St. Laurenzen Church is the Evangelical Reformed parish church of the city of St. Gallen. 

The construction of the first church is estimated to be in the middle of the 12th century. 

The church was the political, religious and social center of the city republic of St. Gallen for almost 300 years and has had a lasting influence on the history of the city.

Today it is still a meeting room for the town’s local citizens. 

The church takes its name from the martyr Lawrence of Rome to whom it was dedicated. It is classified as a building worthy of national protection (highest of the three protection levels) and as a monument of national importance it is therefore under federal monument protection.

Above: Church of St. Lawrence, St. Gallen

  • the Roman Catholic parish church of St. Maria Neudorf

Above: St. Maria Neudorf, St. Gallen

One of the most important organs in Switzerland is located in the church of St. Maria Neudorf in the east of the city of St. Gallen. 

Their history and construction are not commonplace. 

It is a monumental organ that was built in 1927 by organ builder Willisau according to the principles of the Alsatian organ reform. 

It is the largest organ in the city of St. Gallen and, with its remote control, is one of the largest surviving organs from this period.

Above: Organ, St. Maria Neudorf

Also worth viewing are:

  • Greek Orthodox Church of St. Constantine and St. Helena with its Athonite icons and a stained glass window of the Last Judgment

Above: Greek Orthodox Church of St. Constantine and St. Helena, St. Gallen

Above: St. Constantine and St. Helena

Above: Details of the Last Judgment

  • Protestant Church of Linsebühl, an impressive new Renaissance building dating from 1897

The striking Linsebühl Church, built in 1895-1897 in neo-Renaissance style, is a little off the beaten track of traffic but still central. 

The richly decorated interior was extensively restored in 1992 and offers a festive and, at the same time, a somewhat playful atmosphere with excellent acoustics for music and singing.

The organ by the Goll company from Luzern, built in 1897 and restored in 1992, with pneumatic action, three manuals, a pedal and 38 registers, is one of the few surviving purely romantic organs and is known far beyond the city and canton borders.


In addition to the usually well-attended church services, some concerts take place in the Linsebühl church.

With its large forecourt and neighboring parish hall, it is also very suitable for weddings and other festive occasions.


With its galleries, the Church offers space for 810 people (The nave alone can hold ​​512 people).

Above: Linsebühl Reformed Church, St. Gallen

  • Catholic church of St. Martin in the Bruggen district, this concrete church built in 1936 was at that time glaringly modern

This third Catholic Church of St. Martin Bruggen was completed in 1936 next to its predecessor church. 

The first chapel was consecrated in 1600 and converted into a proper church in 1639. 

The second church was completed on the site of the first in 1785 and received a new tower in 1808. 

After the new building and the consecration of today’s church, the southwestern old church was demolished.

Above: St. Martin Church, Bruggen, St. Gallen

The church is named after Saint Martin of Tours. 

A life-size equestrian statue of him stands in front of the church, together with a beggar.

Above: St. Martin Bruggen Reformed Church, St. Gallen

(While Martin was a soldier in the Roman army and stationed in Gaul (modern-day France), he experienced a vision, which became the most-repeated story about his life.

One winter’s day, at the gates of Amiens, Martin met a poor, unclothed man. 

Martin was carrying nothing but his guns and military coat. 

In a merciful act, he divided his cloak with the sword and gave half to the poor man. 

The following night Christ appeared to Martin in a dream, dressed in half the cloak that he had given the beggar. 

I was naked and you clothed me….

What you did to one of these least of these my brothers, you did to me.” (Matthew 25: 35 – 40) )

Above: Martin and the beggar, El Greco

  • Synagogue St. Gallen, built by architects Chiodera and Tschudy, it is the only synagogue in the Lake Constance region that has been preserved in its original state.

Above: St. Gallen Synagogue

The first document mentioning Jews in St. Gall is dated in 1268.

In 1292 two houses in the town were inhabited by Jews.

On 23 February 1349, during the Black Death, Jewish inhabitants were burned or driven out.

Jews were not allowed to settle in St. Gall again until the 19th century.

The Jews, who then lived in a special quarter, the “Hinterlauben” or “Brotlauben” were accused of having poisoned the wells.

St. Gallen followed the example of other towns near the Lake of Constance, imprisoning the Jews, burning them alive, or at best expelling them and confiscating their property.

For a long time after this event no Jews lived in St. Gall.

In modern times the right of settlement was granted only very exceptionally to a few Jews, who had to pay heavily for the concession.

Even after the wars of independence the St. Gallen “Jews’ Law” of 15 May 1818, though not strictly enforced by the government, placed the Jews under severe restrictions.

These laws remained on the statute books until the emancipation of the Jews of Switzerland in February 1863.

On 8 April 1864, the present Jewish community was constituted, the members having moved to St. Gall from the nearby town of Hohenems (Austria).

On 21 September 1881, the present synagogue was consecrated.

Religious services were organized, Hebrew and religious classes founded.

Soon afterward the cemetery was laid out.

The dead had previously been conveyed to one of the neighboring communities.

Above: Jewish cemetery, St. Gallen

Jews played a prominent role in the St. Gall textile industry until 1912, especially in the famous embroidery branch.

In 1919 refugees from Eastern Europe settled in St. Gallen, forming a separate community.

German and Austrian Jewish refugees began crossing the border into the Canton in 1938, and a refugee care organization was set up there.

Above: Judaica – candlesticks, etrog box, shofar, Torah pointer, Tanach, natla

From 1939 to 1944 the town was the centre for preparing Jewish refugee children for Youth Aliyah to Palestine.

Above: Youth Aliyah commemorative stamp

In 1944, 1,350 Jews (mostly Hungarian) from the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp were brought to St. Gallen.

Above: A British Army bulldozer pushes dead bodies into a mass grave at Belsen, Germany, 19 April 1945

A year later 1,200 Jews from Theresienstadt concentration camp arrived.

Above: Memorial to Jewish Victims, Terezin (formerly Theresienstadt), Czech Republic

Above: Three Jewish children rescued from Theresienstadt recuperate in St. Gallen, 11 February 1945

Police officer Paul Grüninger, later designated as “Righteous among the Gentiles“, helped Jewish refugees after 1938.

Above: Righteous Among the Nations medal

He was ousted from office, lost his pension, and died in misery.

Years after his death, citizens fought successfully for his posthumous rehabilitation.

A square in St. Gallen is named after him.

Above: Paul Grüninger (1891 – 1972)

Above: Grüningerplatz, St. Gallen

Above: Paul Brüninger Bridge between Diepoldsau, Germany and Hohenems, Austria

The Jewish inhabitants of St. Gallen increased numerically over the course of time through frequent migrations from the communities of Endingen and Lengnau, Gailingen (Baden), Laupheim (Württemberg), and from other places.

The Jews of St. Gallen exceed 500 in a total population of over 33,000.

Above: Entry to the Jewish Museum of Switzerland, Basel

The El Hidaje Mosque is an unassuming building that received public attention when a man was shot dead during a Friday prayer on 22 August 2014.

Police arrested an individual with a handgun when they were called after reports of gunfire.

A man was found dead in the mosque’s prayer room, a police spokesman said.

Around 300 people were reportedly in the mosque for Friday prayers at the time of the shooting.

It was not immediately clear what the motive may have been.

Witnesses believe the killing may have been linked to a family dispute dating back a number of years, Swiss newspaper 20 Minutes reported.

The El-Hidaje mosque is used by St Gallen’s Albanian Muslim community.

Fehim Dragusha, a former Imam at the mosque, told Switzerland’s Radio FM1:

Albanians and Muslims should not bring problems from their home country into Switzerland.

Above: El-Hidaje Mosque, St. Gallen

There are at least 50 places of worship across St. Gallen where people can gather to publicly proclaim their devotion to God.

And in none of them do I get a sense of the presence of God (presuming His existence) within.

This is not to say that others are not inspired by their visits to these sanctuaries of faith, but I am not one of them.

I defend a person’s right to believe (or not believe) what they will providing this practice does no harm to others

For myself what religious feeling I may have experienced has always been in the midst of walking.

An activity of late that has gone sadly neglected since my return to Eskişehir last month, though walking is an activity that requires few expenses to do.

We live in a time where the lines of conflict have been drawn between secrecy and openness, between the consolidation and the dispersal of power, between privatization and public ownership, between power and life.

Walking has always been on the side of the latter.

Walking itself has not changed the world – though it does seem that so many religious leaders have found their particular testaments during such activity – but walking has been a rite, a tool, a reinforcement of a civil society that stands up to violence, to fear, and to repression.

Indeed, it is hard to imagine a viable civil society without the free association and the knowledge of the terrain that comes with walking.

A sequestered or passive population is not quite a citizenry.

Insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space and will to walk and against the version of humanity that act embodies.

One force is the filling-up of “the time in-between“, the time between places.

This time has been deplored as a waste, so it is filled with earphones and mobile phone screens.

The ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the useless, has evaporated, as does appreciation of being outside – including outside the familiar.

Our mobile phones serve as a buffer against solitude, silence and thought.

We have become immobile and inactive.

We have forgotten that our bodies are built to be used, that our bodies were not meant to be passive, that our bodies are inherent sources of power.

While walking, the body and the mind can work together, so that thinking becomes a physical, rhythmic act.

Spirituality enters in as we move through urban and rural planes of existence.

Past and present combine as we relive events in our personal histories.

Each walk moves through space like a thread through fabric, sewing it together into a continuous experience – unlike the way other modes of travel chop up time and space.

It starts with a step and then another and then another, adding up like taps on a drum to a rhythm, the rhythm of walking.

Walking is an investigation, a ritual, a meditation.

We invest a universal act with particular meanings, from the erotic to the spiritual, from the revolutionary to the artistic.

A desk is no place to think on a large scale.

An absolutely new prospect is a great happiness and I can still get this any afternoon.

Two or three hours’ walking will carry me to as strange a country as I expect ever to see.

A single farmhouse which I had not seen before is sometimes as good as the dominions of the King of Dahomey.

There is in fact a sort of harmony discoverable between the capabilities of the landscape and the threescore and ten years of human life.

It will never become quite familiar to you.

Henry David Thoreau

Above: Henry David Thoreau (1817 – 1862)

It is the unpredictable incidents between official events that add up to a life, the incalculable that gives it value.

Walking is about being outside, in public space, but public space is being abandoned and eroded, eclipsed by technologies and services that don’t require leaving home.

Outside has been shadowed by fear, for strange places are always more frightening than familiar ones, so the less one wanders the more alarming it seems, and so the fewer the wanderers the more lonely and dangerous it really becomes.

Above: Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust (Dutch edition)

The newer the place, the less public space.

Malls have replaced Main Street, the streets have no sidewalks, buildings are entered through the garage, City Hall has no plaza, and everywhere everything has walls and bars and gates.

Fear has created the landscape where to be a pedestrian is to be under suspicion.

Too many have forgotten that it is the random, the unscreened, that allows you to find what you didn’t know you were looking for.

And you don’t know a place until it surprises you.

Above: Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust (Spanish edition)

But we have come to a place in society where the road ends, where there is no public space and we have paved Paradise to put up a parking lot, a world where leisure is shrinking and being crushed under the anxiety to produce, where bodies are not in the world but indoors in transport and buildings.

We have gained speed and lost purpose.

When you give yourself to places, they give you yourself back.

The more you come to know a place, the more you seed it with an invisible crop of memories and associations that will be waiting for your return, while new places offer up new thoughts and new possibilities.

Walking came from Africa, from evolution, and from necessity.

It went everywhere, usually looking for something.

And this is the essence of walking, the search for something intangible.

Above: (in green) Africa

This is the essence of the pilgrimage, a literal means of spiritual journey, wherein the journey is more significant than the destination itself, for it is the journey that develops us spiritually.

Walking lets us be in that non-believer’s Paradise, that Heaven on Earth, nature.

To consider Earth holy is to connect the lowest and most material to the most high and ethereal, to close the breach between matter and spirit.

The world is holy and the sacred is underfoot rather than above.

The journey of the outside is also a journey within.

And there have been people in St. Gallen that remind me of the holy underfoot and the surprising compassion of those not out to earn their own “salvation” but who only seek to help others to find theirs.

Each time we are reunited, Augustin and I stroll through town.

He does not point out the attractions, but somehow I feel that I am seeing St. Gallen through his eyes and not my own.

His manner of expression lends majesty to the path upon which we walk.

Above: My friend Augustin

I have known Augustin for a decade when we were both employed at the Starbucks Bahnhof St. Gallen.

He is truly a remarkable man.

Augustin – a wonderful mix of French and African…

As welcoming to Switzerland as rain in the desert….

When I broke both my arms in 2018 and needed to be rehabilitated in Mammern – 26 miles / 42 km northwest of St. Gallen – he was my sole visitor (save my wife) who came out to visit me.

Everyone has busy lives and yet he found the time – made the time – to visit someone who should have given him, should still give him, more of his time and attention.

Above: Augustin and your humble blogger, Mammern, Switzerland, 2 June 2018

On 22 January 2022, after very little contact or communication between us, he invited me to his new apartment he shares with his lady love Laura and he cooked us a delicious dinner and continuously gave and gave to me whatever I might desire.

I left his apartment feeling humbled and honoured by the hospitality and love shown to me.

May I always be worthy.

Above: Laura and Augustin

Augustin is one of the hardest workers I have ever had the honour of working with.

He truly gives the adage “It is not the job that brings dignity to the man. It is the man who brings dignity to the job.” meaning.

He is one of those rare individuals who may not have always been blessed with the wealth that others take for granted, but he remains generous to a fault.

He came to Switzerland in dire straits.

He spoke truth to power and his homeland’s government desired to imprison him for his sacrilege.

He remains an exile from his home, from his loved ones there, until the politics therein, perhaps, one day, changes.

He has since become a Swiss citizen and, as such, acts responsibly, deserving of that privilege.

He has built a life for himself, has found a lady love and has achieved a happiness he so richly deserves, for he has gotten from the universe what he has given to it and fortune has rewarded him accordingly.

His is one of those friendships, like so many friendships this rolling stone has been miraculously been blessed with, that needs no reciprocation and yet rewards those who treat him with dignity and respect.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Augustin is my mirror.

I cannot even begin to guess the mind of another person, but perhaps the dignity and respect I have shown him compels him to show me the same.

Despite this, I get the feeling that he does not give in order to get.

He is not good (at least, to me) out of any expectation.

Nor do I get a sense of his feeling entitled to reciprocation.

(Unlike some I have known…..)

Augustin, the Augustin I know, is a man fit to be any other man’s role model of what a good person is, of what a good person can be.

I am blessed by his friendship.

Above: Augustin

Perhaps I should not be so surprised and touched when people are nice to me.

And yet I am, almost every time, when an act of human kindness touches my life.

I am even surprised when my own wife is kind to me, for we have had our differences over the years.

(My sojourn in Turkey has not helped the relationship.)

Like most men, I am probably undeserving of a good woman’s (or perhaps even a bad woman’s) love.

Above: The Wedding, Edmund Blair Leighton

I think of my last visit to Switzerland and the friends I encountered when I was there:

  • Volkan, assistant Starbucks store manager and talented singer, is a man of surprising depth at times.
  • Nesha, of Belgrade and Herisau, has always been a friend with whom I can share moments of laughter.
  • Naomi, Canadian from Vancouver and Starbucks barista, a woman torn between ambition and affection, is a woman who leads with her heart despite the misgivings of her head.
  • Alanna, Canadian from Nova Scotia, Starbucks shift manager and independent store operator, is one of the strongest women I know, whose will is as powerful as her beauty.
  • Katja is a woman whose wanderlust and passion for life matches my own.
  • Sinan is a young man whose maturity belies the youthfulness of his features, a good father, a good husband, a good friend.
  • Michael is a young man who reminds me of myself in my younger days, so confident in what he knows, still unaware that the passage of time will confirm that there will always be more we don’t understand, that the knowledge we do have is merely a beginning, that it is never the completion of all we need to know, he is a young man who in discovering the world discovers himself.
  • Sonja, former Starbucks store manager, now an independent vendor in the Luzern region, is always compassionate to me whenever we see one another.
  • Ricardo, former Starbucks store manager, is another friend who is easy to misjudge, but, at least with me, he has proven ready to assist me should I ask him.
  • Pedro, Starbucks store manager, started at Starbucks shortly after I did, but unlike me was determined to rise within its ranks, is a person I am proud to know, for despite his success he has always respected that I walk a different path than he does.
  • Ute, my wife, my life, is as part of my being as breathing, a woman who deserves far better than myself, but Karma is a tricky thing!

These are the few I was fortunate enough to see during my last visit.

There remain others that time and circumstance prevented our reunion.

I have been blessed by these and other friends (and family) in other places (Canada, Britain, Australia, New Zealand, America, Germany, Austria, Paraguay, Turkey).

Do others see these friends different than I see them?

Most assuredly.

Some of my friends may not even like other friends of mine.

What may be said of their lives outside of my experience of them I can neither confirm nor deny.

I only judge them by their actions towards me.

And it is by their actions that I know them.

It is their actions towards me that restores my faith in humanity and in life itself.

They are my religion, my sustenance, the very breath I take, the reason I live, the courage to love.

Friends offer enormous comfort.

They help to structure your time.

They show you that you belong and can be cared about.

A man who lacks a network of friends is seriously impaired from living his life, from having a life worth living.

A man’s friends alleviate the neurotic overdependence on a wife or a girlfriend for every emotional need.

If a man, going through a “rough patch”, gets help from his friends as well as his partner, then his burden is shared.

If his problems are with his partner (as they often are) then his friends can help him through, talk sense into him, stop him acting stupidly and help him to release his grief.

I do not believe that men are as inarticulate as women claim.

We are simply inexperienced.

Our inarticulateness (a trait not shared by all men) simply comes from a history with a lack of sharing opportunities.

Millions of women complain about their male partner’s lack of feeling, their woodenness.

Men themselves (and I include myself in this) often feel numb and confused about what they really want.

But if men talked to each other more, perhaps they would understand themselves better.

Then perhaps we would then have more to say to our wives or girlfriends.

Sometimes only a man can understand what another man is feeling.

The same can be said for the empathy between women.

Men’s voices have a different tone than women’s.

Our feelings have a different tone as well.

We have more than enough feelings, but we lack the experience or opportunity to express them.

What does not help is that men are put into a double bind by society at large.

We are asked to simultaneously be more intimate and sensitive and yet be tough when needed.

As if feelings within a man need be as flexible as shifting gears in a car.

A considerable skill not innately part of ourselves.

We are reserved in expression, for expression requires trust in those who may listen.

Can we express hurt?

Can we express frustration?

Without fear of censure?

Without others minimizing these feelings?

Without advice given?

Without competition?

Men feel, but fear of showing weakness prevents expression.

Men can be noisy and wild and still be safe.

What annoys me about society is the demand that men must prove that they are men.

Men have nothing to prove.

Let men judge themselves by their own standards.

A man should not be judged for the manner in which he conveniently accommodates women.

Women have their own struggles.

Men have theirs.

Equality between the genders is only possible if there is negotiation and fairness, non-threatening behaviour (from both genders), mutual respect, mutual trust and support, honesty and accountability (from both genders), shared responsibility and economic partnership.

They are “my North, my South, my East and West,
My working week and my Sunday rest,
My noon, my midnight, my talk, my song.

W.H. Auden

Above: Wystan Hugh Auden (1907 – 1973)

Time and distance often separates us, but while I think of them they remain ever close to my heart and are embedded in my soul.

If there is a God – and sometimes I think there just might be – then He manifests Himself in the manner in which He blesses our lives with our fellow human beings.

Everyone I meet has proven to be either a blessing or a lesson in my life.

I am humbled.

I am grateful.

Another friend once described me in the following way:

You are a walking/living contradiction.

Shy and timid on one extreme, courageous and adventurous on the other, extremely intelligent and yet naive at the same time…”

(I have been called worse!)

Do I contradict myself?
Very well then I contradict myself,
(I am large, I contain multitudes.)

Walt Whitman

Above: Walt Whitman (1819 – 1892)

I find myself remembering an old Facebook post I wrote during the days I travelled by train between Landschlacht and St. Gallen:

Above: Swiss Federal Railways network map

Normally I am unaffected by graffiti and undecided as to whether it should be viewed as an art form or as an act of vandalism.

But there is a graffiti scrawling on the wall of a factory (apple processing plant?) facing the railroad station of Neukirch-Egnach (between Romanshorn and St. Gallen) that always makes me smile for its powerful simplicity.

You are artwork.

Each and every one of us is a miracle, an artistic masterpiece.

Such a wise graffiti scrawl...

Heed the writing on the wall.

Above: Neukirch-Egnach Station, Switzerland

What a piece of work is man,

How noble in reason, how infinite in faculty,

In form and moving how express and admirable,

In action how like an angel,

In apprehension how like a god,

The beauty of the world,

The paragon of animals. 

Hamlet, Act 2, Scene ii, William Shakespeare

Above: Presumed portrait of William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

It is Easter Sunday, it is Passover, it is Ramadan.

I am merely a man.

Thank God.

Above: Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Reuters, “One dead in shooting at mosque in Switzerland“, 23 August 2014

The seduction of solitude

Eskişehir, Turkey, Saturday 13 November 2021

We are more connected than ever.

Or so we are told.

We can travel to other continents in just a few hours.

And so I have.

We can speak to friends and family whenever we want.

Whether we want to or not.

At any time of day.

Whether it is convenient or not.

We see their faces, beaming out of our laptop screens and mobile phones.

We need never be alone again.

But is solitude a choice?

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Turkey

For we have never felt more lonely.

On the train or bus on our daily commutes we avoid eye contact with those around us.

We pass the time with eyes glued to screens, listening to everything, anything, but our own thoughts.

We ponder the lives of others, yet adrift in the human ocean, we feel permanently alone.

The paradox is that the closer we have moved to other people – crammed into sprawling cities and permanently connected via the Internet – the lonelier we have become.

The history of modernity is also the history of loneliness.

Above: Tramway, Eskişehir, Turkey

We could counteract this loneliness by making more meaningful connections, by playing active roles in our communities or by taking more seriously the links we already have.

We could also learn to be comfortable on our own – to be happy, even to thrive alone.

The cure for loneliness is solitude, for instead of feeling deprived of the company of others, we should feel satisfied within ourselves, with the boundless world each of us contains and inhabits.

After all is said and done one can feel utterly alone in a crowd of people, but completely content, solo, at the top of a mountain.

Above: A night view of the Porsuk River in Eskişehir, Turkey

What does it mean to be alone?

Why would anyone wish to pursue solitude?

Can solitude find a balance with sociability?

Do we need solitude or is it a thing best avoided?

May be an image of one or more people and outdoors
Above: Eskişehir, Turkey

My colleagues do not comprehend me.

Why do not wish to join them in taverns and restaurants and caf’és more regularly than I do?

On my days off, unfettered by wife or girlfriend demanding my attention, why do I not seek out the company of my companions of common circumstance?

They cannot understand it is not any dislike for them that I possess, but rather a love of solitude that I seek.

Whether that solitude finds me walking along the river which though it bisects the city of Eskişehir they are resolutely uninterested as to whence it began or whither it ends, or whether I quietly explore alone a city quarter heretofore I had not yet visited, my colleagues view me askance as someone they can’t quite categorize, can’t quite accept nor reject.

And this suits me fine.

I do not feel the need to explain to them that which is difficult to define for myself beyond the stirrings that lie within me.

May be an image of outdoors

Above: Eskişehir, Turkey

I walk because it is healthy for body, mind and soul.

I travel because I wish to see what I have not yet seen, in the hopes that seeing will grant me more understanding of the society in which I reside.

The complex compulsions that propel me to do these simple acts are for those trained in the science of psychology to decipher.

I am uninterested in such an analysis.

No photo description available.
Above: Your humble blogger Canada Slim

Repulsed by the corruption of the world, tired of its limitless greed, certain devout men and women elected a life of solitude.

Some chose to be hermits, separating themselves entirely from the society around them.

Some formed small self-sufficient communities where they could be alone.

Together.

In solitude they pursued rigorous programmes of prayer and introspection.

Their writings influenced centuries of thought on what it meant to be human.

Above: Hermit cave, Spain

Ah, to pay attention to individuals – to their unique qualities and capacities, to their inner lives as separate from religious considerations!

Ah, to understand what can be discovered about yourself and the world in solitude, with only a library, curiosity and, perhaps, a cat!

Ah, what we could discover and prove for ourselves, to truly doubt what we had been taught to believe, to be free of recycled wisdom, to discover the truth, if any, about our world!

Ah, to focus instead on our emotions, charting and describing their shifting states, contrasting their various sentiments and sensibilities!

Ah, to seek solitude in the beauty and splendour of the natural world as an aid to poetic introspection, to explore our inner lives by reading from the book of nature or by reflecting on the latest novel!

Ah, to pursue solitude in places which have, miraculously, remained untouched by industrial progress, uncorrupted by society or by the mechanization of the world!

Above: Solitude and the Sea, by Jacques Bodin

It is said that solitude is the school of genius.

Perhaps that is why there are so few geniuses, so few writers, too few artists, for solitude is necessary to create art.

Perhaps solitude can teach us how to think in freedom, how to enjoy a profound inner life.

These Albert Einstein Quotes Are Life Changing! (Motivational Video)
Above: Albert Einstein (1879 – 1955)

Freedom is considered to be one of the benefits of solitude.

The constraints of others will not have any effect on a person who is spending time in solitude, therefore giving the person more latitude in their actions.

With increased freedom, a person’s choices are less likely to be affected by exchanges with others.

A person’s creativity can be sparked when given freedom.

Solitude can increase freedom and moreover, freedom from distractions has the potential to spark creativity.

In 1994, psychologist Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi found that adolescents who cannot bear to be alone often stop enhancing creative talents.

Csikszentmihalyi
Above: Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi (1934 – 2021)

Another proven benefit to time given in solitude is the development of the self.

When a person spends time in solitude from others, they may experience changes to their self-concept.

This can also help a person to form or discover their identity without any outside distractions.

Solitude also provides time for contemplation, growth in personal spirituality, and self-examination.

In these situations, loneliness can be avoided as long as the person in solitude knows that they have meaningful relations with others.

Harry Nilsson - One (Audio) - YouTube

Above: “One is the Loneliest Number“, Harry Nilsson

We surround ourselves with noise, chaos, the bright and shiny, to help us cope with the grim reality that we, in truth, live as we dream.

Alone.

The Congress (2013)

Solitude is a state of seclusion or isolation, i.e., lack of contact with people.

It can have both positive and negative effects, depending on the situation.

Short-term solitude is often valued as a time when one may work, think or rest without being disturbed.

It may be desired for the sake of privacy.

Undesirable long-term solitude may stem from soured relationships, loss of loved ones, deliberate choice, infectious disease, mental disorders, neurological disorders, or circumstances of employment or situation.

A distinction has been made between solitude and loneliness.

In this sense, these two words refer, respectively, to the joy and the pain of being alone.

Solitude | Humans

Solitude does not necessarily entail feelings of loneliness, and may in fact be one’s sole source of genuine pleasure for those who choose it with deliberate intent.

Some individuals seek solitude for discovering a more meaningful and vital existence.

For example, in religious contexts, some saints preferred silence and found immense pleasure in their perceived uniformity with God.

Solitude is a state that can be positively modified utilizing it for prayer allowing to…..

Be alone with ourselves and with God, to put ourselves in listening to His will, but also of what moves in our hearts, let purify our relationships.

Solitude and silence thus become spaces inhabited by God, and ability to recover ourselves and grow in humanity.”

Meditative Essay on Solitude | Writing Creative Nonfiction

The Buddha attained enlightenment through uses of meditation, deprived of sensory input, bodily necessities, and external desires, including social interaction.

The context of solitude is attainment of pleasure from within, but this does not necessitate complete detachment from the external world.

Buddha in Sarnath Museum (Dhammajak Mutra).jpg
Above: Buddha in Sarnath Museum, India

This is well demonstrated in the writings of Edward Abbey with particular regard to Desert Solitaire where solitude focused only on isolation from other people allows for a more complete connection to the external world, as in the absence of human interaction the natural world itself takes on the role of the companion.

Desert Solitaire was eventually recognized as an iconic work of nature writing and a staple of early environmentalist writing, bringing Abbey critical acclaim and popularity as a writer of environmental, political, and philosophical issues.

Based on Abbey’s activities as a park ranger at Arches National Monument (now Arches National Park) in the late 1950s, the book is often compared to Henry David Thoreau’s Walden (see below) and Aldo Leopold’s A Sand County Almanac.

Delicate arch sunset.jpg
Above: Delicate Arch sunset

A Sand County Almanac: And Sketches Here and There is a 1949 non-fiction book by American ecologist, forester, and environmentalist Aldo Leopold.

Describing the land around the author’s home in Sauk County, Wisconsin, the collection of essays advocate Leopold’s idea of a “land ethic“, or a responsible relationship existing between people and the land they inhabit.

The book is considered a landmark in the American conservation movement.

The book has had over two million copies printed and has been translated into at least fourteen languages. 

It has informed and changed the environmental movement and stimulated a widespread interest in ecology as a science.

Leopold in 1946
Above: Aldo Leopold (1887 – 1948)

A Sand County Almanac is a combination of natural history, scene painting with words, and philosophy.

It is perhaps best known for the following quote, which defines his land ethic:

A thing is right when it tends to preserve the integrity, stability, and beauty of the biotic community.

It is wrong when it tends otherwise.

Above: Typical Sauk County countryside

The book begins with a set of essays under the heading “Sand County Almanac“, which is divided into twelve segments, one for each month.

These essays mostly follow the changes in the ecology on Leopold’s farm near Baraboo, Wisconsin.

Baraboo-Wisconsin.jpg
Above: Main square, Baraboo, Wisconsin

(There is, in fact, no “Sand County” in Wisconsin.

The term “sand counties” refers to a section of the state marked by sandy soils).

There are anecdotes and observations about flora and fauna reactions to the seasons as well as mentions of conservation topics.

Flag of Wisconsin
Above: Flag of Wisconsin

The second section of the book, “Sketches Here and There“, shifts the rhetorical focus from time to place.

The essays are thematically organized around farms and wilderness in Canada, Mexico and the US.

Some of these essays are autobiographical.

Red Legs Kicking“, for example, recounts Leopold’s boyhood experience of hunting in Iowa.

The seminal essay “Thinking Like a Mountain” recalls another hunting experience later in life that was formative for Leopold’s later views.

Here Leopold describes the death of a she-wolf killed by his party during a time when conservationists were operating under the assumption that elimination of top predators would make game plentiful.

The essay provides a non-technical characterization of the trophic cascade where the removal of single species carries serious implications for the rest of the ecosystem.

Above: Aldo Leopold with quiver and bow seated on rimrock above the Rio Gavilan in northern Mexico while on a bow hunting trip in 1938

The book ends with a section of philosophical essays grouped together under the heading “The Upshot“.

Here Leopold explores ironies of conservation: in order to promote wider appreciation of wild nature and engender necessary political support, one encourages recreational usage of wilderness that ultimately destroys it.

Musings on “trophies” contrasts the way that some need a physical specimen to prove their conquest into the wilderness, though photographs may be less damaging than a trophy head to be mounted on the wall.

He suggests that the best trophy is the experience of wilderness itself, along with its character-building aspects.

Leopold also rails against the way that policy makers need to find an economic motive for conservation.

In the concluding essay, “The Land Ethic“, Leopold delves into a more appropriate rationale for conservation.

In “The Ecological Conscience” section, he wrote:

Conservation is a state of harmony between men and land.”

Leopold felt it was generally agreed that more conservation education was needed.

However quantity and content were up for debate.

He believed that land is not a commodity to be possessed.

Rather, humans must have mutual respect for Earth in order not to destroy it.

He philosophizes that humans will cease to be free if they have no wild spaces in which to roam.

Sand county almanac.jpg

Desert Solitaire is written as a series of vignettes about Abbey’s experiences in the Colorado Plateau region of the desert southwestern United States, ranging from vivid descriptions of the fauna, flora, geology, and human inhabitants of the area, to firsthand accounts of wilderness exploration and river running, to a polemic against development and excessive tourism in the national parks, to stories of the author’s work with a search and rescue team to pull a human corpse out of the desert.

The book is interspersed with observations and discussions about the various tensions – physical, social, and existential – between humans and the desert environment.

Many of the chapters also engage in lengthy critiques of modern Western civilization, US politics and the decline of America’s natural environment.

Above: Book Cliffs, Helper, Utah

One of the dominant themes in Desert Solitaire is Abbey’s disgust with mainstream culture and its effect on society.

His message is that civilization and nature each have their own culture, and it is necessary to survival that they remain separate:

The personification of the natural is exactly the tendency I wish to suppress in myself, to eliminate for good.

I am here not only to escape for a while the clamor and filth and confusion of the cultural apparatus but also to confront, immediately and directly if it’s possible, the bare bones of existence, elemental and fundamental, the bedrock which sustains us.

Above: The Green River runs north to south from Wyoming, briefly through Colorado, and converges with the Colorado River in southeastern Utah.

Abbey’s impression is that we are trapped by the machinations of mainstream culture.

This is made apparent with quotes such as:

Yet history demonstrates that personal liberty is a rare and precious thing, that all societies tend toward the absolute until attack from without or collapse from within breaks up the social machine and makes freedom and innovation again possible.

Above: The Colorado Plateau

He also believes the daily routine is meaningless, that we have created a life that we do not even want to live in:

My God!

I am thinking, what incredible shit we put up with most of our lives – the domestic routine (same old wife every night), the stupid and useless degrading jobs, the insufferable arrogance of elected officials, the crafty cheating and the slimy advertising of the business men, the tedious wars in which we kill our buddies instead of our real enemies back in the capital, the foul diseased and hideous cities and towns we live in, the constant petty tyranny of automatic washers and automobiles and TV machines and telephone!

Above: Castle Gate, Caribou County, Utag

Abbey displays disdain for the way industrialization is impacting the American wilderness.

He scolds humanity for the environmental duress caused by man’s blatant disregard for nature:

If industrial man, continues to multiply his numbers and expand his operations he will succeed in his apparent intention, to seal himself off from the natural, and isolate himself within a synthetic prison of his own making.

Above: Abbey is critical of the industrial pressures on the desert, particularly the inundation of Glen Canyon as a result of the Glen Canyon Dam.

Man prioritizes material items over nature, development and expansion for the sake of development:

There may be some among the readers of this book, like the earnest engineer, who believe without question that any and all forms of construction and development are intrinsic goods, in the national parks as well as anywhere else, who virtually identify quantity with quality and therefore assume that the greater the quantity of traffic, the higher the value received.

There are some who frankly and boldly advocate the eradication of the last remnants of wilderness and the complete subjugation of nature to the requirements of–not man–but industry.

This is a courageous view, admirable in its simplicity and power, and with the weight of all modern history behind it.

It is also quite insane.

I cannot attempt to deal with it here.

Above: Navajo sandstone cliffs, Zion National Park

Another example of this for Abbey is the tragedy of the commons:

A civilization which destroys what little remains of the wild, the spare, the original, is cutting itself off from its origins and betraying the principle of civilization itself.

If industrial man continues to multiply its numbers and expand his operations he will succeed in his apparent intention, to seal himself off from the natural and isolate himself within a synthetic prison of his own making.

He will make himself an exile from the Earth.

Above: Sunset, Ojito Wilderness, New Mexico

He also criticizes what he sees as the dominant social paradigm, what he calls the expansionist view, and the belief that technology will solve all our problems:

Confusing life expectancy with lifespan, the gullible begin to believe that medical science has accomplished a miracle—lengthened human life!

Above: Petrified Forest National Park, Painted Desert

Abbey takes this theme to an extreme at various points of the narrative, concluding that:

Wilderness preservations like a hundred other good causes will be forgotten under the overwhelming pressure, or a struggle for mere survival and sanity in a completely urbanized completely industrialized, ever more crowded environment, for my own part I would rather take my chances in a thermonuclear war than live in such a world.”

Above: Caron Power Plant, Helper, Utah

Another major theme is the sanctity of untamed wilderness. 

Abbey states his dislike of the human agenda and presence by providing evidence of beauty that is beautiful simply because of its lack of human connection:

I want to be able to look at and into a juniper tree, a piece of quartz, a vulture, a spider, and see it as it is in itself, devoid of all humanly ascribed qualities, anti-Kantian, even the categories of scientific description.

To meet God or Medusa face to face, even if it means risking everything human in myself.

Above: Dawn, South Rim, Grand Canyon National Park

There is no hidden meaning in the wilderness for Abbey:

He finds it beautiful because it is untainted by human perspectives and values.

He also concludes that its inherent emptiness and meaninglessness serve as the ideal canvas for human philosophy absent the distractions of human contrivances and natural complexities.

As such, Abbey wonders why natural monuments like mountains and oceans are mythologized and extolled much more than are deserts.

Above: Zion Canyon, Zion National Park

That emptiness is one of the defining aspects of the desert wildness and for Abbey one of its greatest assets – and one which humans have disturbed and harmed by their own presence:

I am almost prepared to believe that this sweet virginal primitive land would be grateful for my departure and the absence of the tourist, will breathe metaphorically a collective sigh of relief – like a whisper of wind – when we are all and finally gone and the place and its creations can return to their ancient procedures unobserved and undisturbed by the busy, anxious, brooding consciousness of man.

Above: Inspiration Point, Bryce Canyon National Park

Midway through the text, Abbey observes that nature is something lost since before the time of our forefathers, something that has become distant and mysterious which he believes we should all come to know better:

Suppose we say that wilderness provokes nostalgia, a justified not merely sentimental nostalgia for the lost America our forefathers knew.

The word suggests the past and the unknown, the womb of the earth from which we all emerged.

Above: Capitol Reef National Park

He quite firmly believes that our agenda should change, that we need to reverse our path and reconnect with that something we have lost – indeed, that mankind and civilization needs wilderness for its own edification.

Abbey is not unaware, however, of the behaviour of his human kin.

Instead, he realizes that people have very different ideas about how to experience nature.

Above: Mesa Arch, Canyonlands National Park

Some like to live as much in accord with nature as possible, and others want to have both manmade comforts and a marvelous encounter with nature simultaneously:

Hard work.

And risky.

Too much for some, who have given up the struggle on the highways, in exchange for an entirely different kind of vacation- out in the open, on their own feet, following the quiet trail through forests and mountains, bedding down in the evening under the stars, when and where they feel like it, at a time where the Industrial Tourists are still hunting for a place to park their automobiles.

Above: Landscape Arch, Arches National Park

His process simply suggests we do our best to be more on the side of being one with nature without the presence of objects which represent our “civilization“.

Abbey also was concerned with the level of human connection to the tools of civilization.

Above: Black Canyon, Gunnison National Park

He was in favor of returning to nature and gaining the freedom that was lost with the inventions that take us places in this day and age:

A man could be a lover and defender of the wilderness without ever in his lifetime leaving the boundaries of asphalt, power lines, and right-angled surfaces.

We need wilderness whether or not we ever set foot in it.

We need a refuge even though we may never need to go there.

I may never in my life go to Alaska, for example, but I am grateful that it is there.

We need the possibility of escape as surely as we need hope; without it the life of the cities would drive all men into crime or drugs or psychoanalysis.

Above: Mount McKinley, Denali National Park, Alaska

The wilderness is equal to freedom for Abbey, it is what separates him from others and allows him to have his connection with the planet.

But he wants others to have the same freedom.

His only request is that they cut their strings first.

When Abbey is lounging in his chair in 110-degree heat at Arches and observes that the mountains are snow-capped and crystal clear, it shows what nature provides:

One extreme is able to counter another.

Above: Joshua Tree National Park, Mojave Desert

That a median can be found, and that pleasure and comfort can be found between the rocks and hard places:

The knowledge that refuge is available, when and if needed, makes the silent inferno of the desert more easily bearable.

Mountains complement desert as desert complements city, as wilderness complements and complete civilization.

Above: Death Valley, Mojave Deser

Abbey makes statements that connect humanity to nature as a whole.

He makes the acknowledgement that we came from the wilderness, we have lived by it, and we will return to it.

This is an expression of loyalty:

But the love of wilderness is more than a hunger for what is always beyond reach.

It is also an expression of loyalty to the Earth which bore us and sustains us, the only home we shall ever know, the only Paradise we ever need if only we had the eyes to see“.

Above: Joshua Tree National Park, Mojave Desert

He continues by saying that man is rightly obsessed with Mother Nature.

It is where we came from, and something we still recognize as our starting point:

Standing there, gaping at this monstrous and inhuman spectacle of rock and cloud and sky and space, I feel a ridiculous greed and possessiveness come over me.

I want to know it all, possess it all, embrace the entire scene intimately, deeply, totally, as a man desires a beautiful woman.

An insane wish?

Perhaps not – at least there’s nothing else, no one human, to dispute possession with me.

Above: California Poppy Reserve, Antelope Valley, Mojave Desert

Finally, Abbey suggests that man needs nature to sustain humanity:

No, wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit, and as vital to our lives as water and good bread.

DesertSolitaire.jpg

In this context, the individual seeking solitude does so not strictly for personal gain or introspection, though this is often an unavoidable outcome, but instead in an attempt to gain an understanding of the natural world as entirely removed from the human perspective as possible, a state of mind much more readily attained in the complete absence of outside human presence.

In psychology, introverted individuals may require spending time away from people to recharge.

Those who are simply socially apathetic might find it a pleasurable environment in which to occupy oneself with solitary tasks.

Edward Abbey.jpg
Above: Edward Abbey (1927 – 1989)

Perhaps it is only in dreams do we truly connect with ourselves.

Perhaps it is only in solitude can we meaningfully connect with those around us, including the Earth itself.

Solitude inward and outward, from self out towards the cosmos.

The cure for loneliness is, in the end, the art of solitude.

Above: Solitude, by Frederick Leighton

From Notes from a Ten-Foot Square Hut, Kamo no Chomei:

For reasons that remain somewhat mysterious he decided to leave the pleasures of courtly life behind.

He took vows and became a hermit, living the rest of his life in solitude.

First, at the foot of a mountain and then in the hills outside a city in a ten-foot-square hut, such was the life of Kamo no Chomei (1153 – 1216).

Above: Illustration of Kamo no Chomei

Of the flowing river the flood ever changes, on the still pool the foam gathering, vanishing, stays not.

Such too is the lot of men, of the dwelling of men, in this world of ours…..

One year a house is burnt down, the next it is rebuilt.

A lonely mansion falls into ruins and one day a mere cottage replaces it.

The fate of the occupants is like that of their abodes.

Death in the morning, birth in the evening.

Such is man’s life – a fleck of foam on the surface of a pool.

Man is born and dies.

Whence comes he?

Whither goes he?

For whose sake do we endure?

Whence do we draw pleasure?

Above: Setsumatsusha in the precincts of Shimogamo Shrine. Kawai Shrine is a shrine related to Kamo no Chomei.

Now since first he had conscious knowledge of the world about him had some 40 springs and summers gone by.

And of many strange events had he had experience.

Above: Chomei’s Hojoan in Kawai Shrine

On the 28th day of the 4th month of 1177, while a violent storm was raging, a fire broke out in the southeast quarter of the city and extended to the northeast quarter.

In the course of that one night the whole was reduced to ashes.

Folks say the fire began in a cottage used as a temporary hospital situated in the lane.

Favoured by the wind the conflagration spread fanwise.

Distant houses were smothered in the smoke, the nearer spaces were enveloped in coils of flame.

The air was filled with clouds of dust, which reflected the blaze, so that the whole neighbourhood was steeped in a glow of fire amid which tongues of flame darted over the adjoining streets.

Amid such horrors who could retain a steady mind?

Some, choked by the smoke, fell to the ground.

Others in their bewilderment ran straight into the flames trying to save their property, and were burnt to death.

Great stores of wealth were utterly destroyed.

In truth, the loss was incalculable.

Sixteen mansions of high court officers were consumed along with innumerable smaller houses.

A full third of the city was destroyed.

Thousands of persons perished, horses and cattle beyond count.

How foolish are all the purposes of men!

They build their houses, spending their treasure, wasting their energies, in a city exposed.

The Great Fire of Angen - Kyoto through the Ages
Above: The Great Fire of Angen, Kyoto, Japan, 1177

Again a hurricane devastated the city.

Not a single house was left standing within the circuit of several wards.

Some were levelled with the ground.

Some were left with beams and uprights alone standing.

The cross-pieces of the gateways were blown off and carried hundreds of yards away.

Fences were blown down and neighbouring compounds thrown into one.

The contents of houses were scattered in all directions.

Shingles filled the air like leaves in winter and clouds of dust like smoke obscured the sky and blinded one’s eyes.

The roar of the wind was fearful.

One could not hear a word spoken.

The storm seemed a true hell-blast.

Not only were houses destroyed, but the numbers of those who were injured or maimed in their attempts to save their dwellings were incalculable.

The wind finally veered towards the southwest and did much harm in that region.

It was a whirlwind, but what a one!

An extraordinary hurricane!

People doubted not that it portended some evil of like dimension.

What is the Kyoto Protocol - LifeGate

Once more – for two whole years a famine raged in the land, a very miserable time.

Either there were droughts in spring and summer or floods and storms in autumn and winter.

So the evil went on and no crops were reaped.

To till the land in spring was vain.

In summer to plant was foolishness.

In autumn there was no reaping.

In winter nothing to store.

So that many people in the different provinces deserted the land and crossed the frontiers, fled from their homes to pick up a living among the wild hills.

Many prayers of various kinds were offered up and unusual rites practised, but without avail.

The town depends upon the country, but nothing came from the country.

Gold was held cheap and grain dear.

Beggars whined in misery by the roadsides, dinning one’s ears with their cries, and so in misery came to an end.

Charitable Townspeople and Grateful Beggars | EHESS

In 1185, a great earthquake occurred.

It was not an ordinary one.

Hills were shattered and dammed up the rivers.

The sea toppled over and flooded the shore lands.

The earth gaped and water roared up through the rents.

Cliffs were cleft and the fragments rolled down into the valleys.

Boats sculled along the beach were tossed inland upon the bore.

Horses on the roads lost the ground beneath their hoofs.

Not a single building was left entire, house or temple, tower or chapel.

Some were rent and cracked.

Others were thrown down.

The dust rose into the air likes volumes of smoke.

Japan earthquake: FCO has 'severe concerns about a number of British  nationals' | Daily Mail Online

What is so hateful in this life of ours is its vanity and triviality, both with regard to ourselves and our dwellings.

According to our position so are our troubles, countless in any case.

A low man under high protection may have his moments of delight, but not an abiding happiness, for he must restrain his tears when in distress, his natural emotions must be kept down.

He is always uneasy as to promotion or disgrace, standing or sitting constantly subject to alarms.

He is like a sparrow that finds itself close to a hawk’s nest.

House Sparrow mar08.jpg
Above: House sparrow

If a poor man lives next door to a rich one he is oppressed with shame at his shabby appearance and tempted to flatter and cringe before his neighbour.

He is never quite at ease.

As he looks upon his wife and children and servants he envies his wealthy neighbour of whose contempt for him he gets wind.

Should he live in a crowded quarter he can scarcely escape if a fire breaks out.

If his house is situated in a remote district, it is hard to get at and the ways are infested by thieves.

The great man grows avaricious.

The solitary man is disliked by the world.

Wealth brings cares from which the poor man is free.

To depend on the protection of another man is to be his slave.

To protect other folk is to be a slave of your own emotions.

To follow the world is a hardship to oneself.

To disregard it is to be counted a madman.

Where or how shall we find peace even for a moment and afford our heart refreshment even for a single second?

RichManPoorMan.jpg

Just over 30, he built himself a house to suit his own ideas, 1/10 of the size of the house of his paternal grandmother’s home.

His house contained one room.

In fact, it was hardly a room at all.

It had a kind of wall as he could no afford a gate.

The uprights were bamboo.

The construction was like a shed for vehicles.

When the snow fell or the wind blew it was scarcely safe.

It was close to the riverbeds, in the way of floods and handy for thieves.

There he passed his time reflecting on this world of nothingness.

Thirty years slipped by, during which he surveyed the vicissitudes of his wretched life in relation to events around him.

The Hojoki — Words of Wisdom for an Hour of Darkness | JAPAN Forward

Attaining his 50th year, he left his house and turned his back on the world.

As he had never wife nor child there was nothing to hinder him, so he remained idly five more years amid the clouds of Mount Ohara.

Above: Mount Ohara (Hiei), Takaragaike Park

When the 60th year of his life, now vanishing as a dewdrop, approached, anew he made himself an abode, similar to that which a traveller might run himself a shelter for a single night.

Compared with his last dwelling his new home was less than 1/100 of its size.

As he waxed in age, his lodgings waned in space.

It measured only 10 feet square and was under 7 feet in height.

He prepared a foundation and on it raised a framework which he roofed over with thatch.

A couple of carts would suffice to carry the whole of the materials.

The expense of their hire would be that of the whole building.

He hid himself in the recesses of Mount Hino.

Sakura MtHiei.jpg
Above: Mount Hino (Hiei) and the Tanano River



To the south of his abode a movable sunscreen, with a matting of split bamboos bound together parallelly, jutted outwards.

West was a small shrine with a Buddhist shelf and a picture of Amida so placed that the space between the eyebrows shone in the rays of the setting sun.

Seated Amida Nyorai (Amitabha), Kamakura period, 12th-13th century, wood with gold leaf and inlaid crystal eyes - Tokyo National Museum - DSC05345.JPG
Above: Statue of Amida, Tokyo National Museum, Japan

Before the curtain doors of the shrine were fixed the figures of Fugen and Fudo.

Above the paper-paned sliding doors of the north side ran a small shelf, on which stood four black leather boxes containing collections of Japanese poetry, books on music, and such works as a book on Buddhist paradise.

Beside these was a flat harp on one side and a lute on the other.

Along the east side were spread large bundles of bracken fern, which with bundles of straw made a couch for him.

There was a window opening in the east wall with a writing desk.

Near the head of the couch was a brazier to burn wood in.

North of the hut was a small garden surrounded by a low hedge of wattled branches, where he grew some medicinal herbs.

To the south was a bamboo pipe and a reservoir made of piled-up stones.

A copse stood close by the eaves, so that firewood was not far to fetch.

The Ten Foot Square Hut

The name of the place was Toyama.

All traces of man were hidden by coils of masaki.

The valley was thickly wooded, but open to the west, so the place was fit for philosophical meditation.

Such was the fashion of his temporary cabin.

Hōjōki - Wikipedia

In the spring he gazed upon the festoons of wisteria, fine to see as purple clouds.

When the west wind grew fragrant with its scent, the note of the hototogisu was heard to guide him toward Shide Hill.

In autumn the shrill song of the cicada filled his ears, surrounding like a regret for his cast-off moult or a complaint of this mortal world.

In winter he watched the snowdrifts pile and vanish.

He was led to reflect upon the ever waxing and waning of the world’s sinfulness.

Hojoki': The paradox of desire and detachment in recluse literature | The  Japan Times

When he tired of reciting prayers or of reading scriptures he could rest at will.

No one was there to prevent him.

There was no friend to reproach him.

He had made no vow of silence, but his solitary life stopped his lips’ play.

He did not need to trouble himself about the strict observance of the commandments, for living as he did in complete solitude how could he be tempted to break them?

When he bent his steps towards the white waves of the stream he watched the morning boats cleaving the flood in their passage to and for across the river, and recalled to mind beautiful verse.

At eventide, when he heard the rustle of the laurel leaves beneath the breeze, his fancy carried his thoughts to the waters and he would play his lute.

When his spirits were exuberant and his imagination active, he likened the music the wind made among the pine groves or the murmur of running waters to a melody.

He had no skill in the arts of song or music, but he did not strive to please other men’s ears.

It was but to nourish his own mind that in his solitude he played and sung.

Hōjōki: A Hermit's Hut as Metaphor, 2nd Edition (Audio Download):  Amazon.co.uk: Kamo no Chomei, Matthew Stavros, MG Miller, Vicus Lusorum:  Audible Audiobooks

At the bottom of his hill stood another cabin, made of wattled bush.

There the hill ward dwelt.

He had a son, a youth who sometimes came to see the hermit, and they rambled about together.

The boy was 16 and the hermit was 60, yet they enjoyed one another’s company despite the difference in years.

Sometimes they gathered tsubana shoots or the berries of the iwanashi, the budlike bulbs of the yam or the leaves of the seri.

Sometimes they roamed among the paddy fields that lay around the foot of the hill to pick up fallen rice tufts.

On sunny days they climbed the peak of his hill and gazed upon the distant skies that loomed over the hermit’s old home.

No owner claimed any rights there, so he was in full possession of his pleasure.

When the fancy took him to look further afield he did not undergo the labour of walking.

His eyes followed the line of hilltops or looked upon jungles – without moving a step.

According to the season, he would gather cherries in full blossom or ruddy-leaved autumn maple or collect fern fronds or pick up fallen nuts.

Hojoki': The paradox of desire and detachment in recluse literature | The  Japan Times

On tranquil nights he gazed upon the moon’s orb shining in through his window and think of the great figures of the men of old.

He was moved to tears by the mournful cries of monkeys in the neighbouring thickets.

He noted the fireflies in the jungles and seemed to see the flares of far-off Makijima.

The patter of rain at daybreak reminded him of the rattle of a storm amid the leaves of the woods.

The horohoro of the copper pheasant made the hermit wonder whether it was his father or mother crying.

The tameness of the deer that roamed under the peak told him how far removed he was from the world of men.

Chasing a Recluse: Kamo no Chōmei – Alex Warofka

On cold nights he often stirred up the ashes of his brazier to renew the embers, the comfort of an old man just waking from a nap.

His wild hill was no dreadful place, but the melancholic hooting of owls gave rise to much reflection.

His cabin weathered with the course of time, the eaves loaded with dead leaves, the ground green with moss.

From time to time news of what was taking place in the royal city reached him in his solitude.

He heard of the deaths of persons of importance, while the roll of smaller men was endless.

He heard of houses burnt down in numbers, but his humble cabin remained a safe shelter for him.

It was cramped, but it had a bed for him to sleep on at night and a mat to sit on during the day, so he had no reason to be discontented.

Snow on Shimogamo Shrine, Kyoto – Deep Kyoto

A man who knows himself and also the world he lives in has nothing to ask for, no society to long.

He aims only at a quiet life and makes his happiness in freedom from annoyance.

But those in the world, what do they do?

They build mansions, but not for their own pleasure.

It is for their wives and families, for their relatives and friends, for their masters or teachers, or to store their property.

Now he built his cabin for himself, not for any other man.

And why had he done so?

As the world went he found no congenial minds in it.

What profit, then, was a larger house to him?

Whom should he have invited to it?

A Ten Square Foot Hut | The flowing river never stops and ye… | Flickr

One usually seeks the friendship of rich men and thinks most of public personages.

Men of good hearts and honest souls are not sought after.

More wisely, he made friends of harps and lutes.

Excerpts from Kamo no Chōmei"An Account of my Ten-Foot-Square Hut"(Hōjōki方丈記,1212),orig&Keene  trans. - YouTube

One who serves another is apt to be always thinking of rewards and punishments.

He hankers after favours and is not content with mere good treatment and kindness and the peace that ensues.

To the hermit, then, it seemed better to be one’s own master and one’s own servant.

If there was something to do he preferred to do it himself.

He believed that to impose a burden upon another man, to constrain his will, was a sinful thing – that we have no right to take possession of another’s powers,

Wisteria cloth and hemp fabric hid his nakedness.

Grass and nuts sustained his body.

As he did not live in the world he did not care about his appearance.

In the absence of luxuries, coarse fare is sweet.

Since he quit his society, he knew nothing of envy or fear.

He committed his life to Heaven, without regret, without anxiety.

He likened his body to a cloud in the sky.

He neither put his trust in it nor did he despise it.

All the joy of his existence was concentrated around the pillow which gave him his nightly rest.

All the hopes of his days he found in the beauties of nature that ever pleased his eyes.

He believed that the three realms of existence – past, present, future – depended on the soul alone.

If the soul is ill at ease, of what profit is treasure?

Palaces and mansions and stately towers gave him no pleasure.

In his solitary cabin he felt the fullest joy.

When he chanced to go to the royal city he felt some shame on account of his beggarly appearance.

Yet upon his return to his hut he felt nothing but pity for the men who squirm amid the dust of the common world.

Consider how birds and fish pass their lives.

Do fish ever tire of the simple water they dwell in?

Do not the birds love their woods?

As we are neither fish nor birds, in truth we cannot tell.

So it is with those who choose the life of a recluse.

Only those who do can know its joys.

Hojoki: Visions of a Torn World by Kamo no Chōmei

I consider the courage of Kamo No Chomei and there is much to meditate upon.

I consider the writing of others who have commented on the seduction of solitude and I find their commentaries differ according to their individual character.

An Account of My Hut (Hojoki) - Notting Hill Editions

Michel de Montaigne (1533 – 1592) had a fine education, enjoyed a successful career in law and as a statesman, and had been twice elected as Mayor of Bordeaux.

Portrait of Michel de Montaigne, circa unknown.jpg
Above> Michel de Montaigne

Then in 1571, he retired from public life and sought solitude in the tower of his château, his citadel.

It was here that he wrote his Essays, which has had a profound influence on Western philosophy and literature.

Above: St. Michel de Montaigne Château

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From “On Solitude“, Michel de Montaigne:

We frequently imagine that we have quit business when we quit out situation in life and travel into remote countries, but unless we are guided by reason and prudence….

He who mounts his horse to fly from care, in foreign climes will surely meet it there.

When once worldly affairs have taken strong possession of our minds, they will follow us into cloisters and deserts.

If a man does not first disengage himself from inordinate desires and relieve his mind from the burden with which he is oppressed, he will, like a sick person, receive more harm than good by moving from place to place.

Above: Montaigne’s Tower

Horace says:

To what corroding care is not a man subject to when he is a prey to his passions?

By what terrors is he not agitated?

In what a gulf of misery is he not plunged by arrogance, debauchery, pride, luxury and idleness?

Horace, as imagined by Anton von Werner
Above: Roman philosopher Quintus Horatius Flaccus (aka Horace) (65 – 8 BCE)

We then in vain seek that true repose in solitude, when may be possessed even in populous cities and the courts of kings, with a right disposition, though more commodiously when separated from them.

We may enjoy the pleasures and possessions of this world, but we are not so to rest our hearts upon them as to render them necessary for our happiness.

We must reserve a back shop, a withdrawing room, wholly to ourselves, where we may find true liberty.

To those who know how to make a right use of solitude, such a retirement is a world within itself.

ARoomOfOnesOwn.jpg

There are some tempers more proper for solitude than others.

Those who have a timid and fearful disposition, with delicate desires and affections, and who never submitted with ease to any restraint, yield with greater satisfaction to this change.

But more active minds, who passionately engage in every important transaction, cannot easily submit to be buried in oblivion or relinquish the power and advantages which are derived from an exalted situation.

We should use these extraneous things, but by no means make them our chief foundation for happiness.

Me, Myself, And I | The New Yorker

Neither nature nor reason authorises us to make ourselves slave to the opinions of others, nor, as some do, to anticipate, from a principle of devotion, all the accidents of fortune, by depriving ourselves of those blessings which we have in our possession:

As throwing money into the river, putting out our own eyes, seeking out misery and grief, from the supposition that the less we enjoy in this life, the greater bliss we are entitled to in another.

These actions are contrary to reason.

It is sufficient for me, being under Fortune’s favour, to prepare myself for her disgrace.

While I am at my ease, to let my imagination rove as far as she can stretch and represent the ills that are to come.

As we do at jousts and tournaments, where we counterfeit war during the calm of peace.

De Montaigne did not think Arcesilaus the less temperate because he made use of silver and golden vessels at his table, as his fortune enabled him to live in splendour, but he held him in higher estimation for enjoying it with liberality and moderation than if he had denied himself those indulgences.

Arcesilaus – Greatest Greeks
Above: Greek philosopher Arcesilaus (316 – 240 BCE)

I feel the utmost extent of human necessity and when I observe the poor mendicant at my door, frequently more healthy and jocund than myself, I endeavour to regulate my mind according to his disposition.

When I think that contempt, sickness and death are at my heels, I can easily submit to bear these evils with patience, which the lowest of the human race endure without a murmur.

I can never believe that an unimproved mind can be superior to that of wisdom or that the effect of habit can be superior to that or wisdom.

Then reflecting on the insufficiency of all worldly conveniences, I do not fail in the plentitude of prosperity, to offer my prayer to almighty God that He will render me content under all the vicissitudes of life.

Carlin on Rich vs. Poor
Above: American comedian George Carlin (1937 – 2008)

When the city of Nola was ruined by the barbarians, Paulinus, Bishop of that place, being deprived of all his property and made prisoner, offered up this prayer to the Supreme Being:

Lord, defend me from being afflicted at my situation, for Thou knowest I have lost nothing which was really mine. I am still in possession of those riches which the world cannot take away.

Nola - View
Above: Nola Cathedral, Italy

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Above: Stained glass image of Paulinus (354 – 431), Linz Cathedral, Austria –

Paulinus of Nola was a Roman poet, writer, and senator who attained the ranks of suffect consul (377) and governor of Campania (380) but — following the assassination of the Emperor Gratian (359 – 383) and under the influence of his Spanish wife Theresia of Nola — abandoned his career, was baptized as a Christian, and after Therasia’s death became Bishop of Nola in Campania.

While there, he wrote poems in honour of his predecessor Felix and corresponded with other Christian leaders throughout the Empire.

He is credited with the introduction of bells to Christian worship and helped resolve the disputed election of Pope Boniface I (418 – 422).

His renunciation of his wealth and station in favor of an ascetic and philanthropic life was held up as an example by many of his contemporaries.

He was subsequently venerated as a saint. 

Seneca says:

You have hitherto lived swimming and floating.

Come now and die in the harbour.

You have given the first part of your lives to the light.

Devote the remainder to the shade.

It will be impossible for you to quit your occupations unless you can also bear to relinquish their fruits.

For this reason disengage yourselves from all who love fame.

I am apprehensive, lest the lustre of your former actions may enlighten you too much and follow you into your retreat.

Renounce, with all your other pleasures, even the gratification of the world’s approbation.

As to your knowledge and parts, do not concern yourselves on that account, they will not lose their effect, if you have yourselves reaped advantage from them.

You should follow the example of beasts of prey who efface the very track to the entrance of their dens.

You are to concern yourselves no more about what the world says of you, but what you say of yourselves.

Restrain and fix your souls within certain limits.

Fully comprehending true and real blessings, which the more they are enjoyed, the better they will be understood, rest satisfied, without a wish for the extent of your fame or the prolongation of your existence.

Above: Statue of Roman philosopher Lucius Annaeus Seneca the Younger (aka Seneca) (4 BCE – CE 65), Córdoba, Spain

Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712 – 1778) felt persecuted by others for much of his life and hated being in society, preferring the natural world and relative solitude over the corrupting pleasures of the city.

He was a restless innovator and a truly original thinker.

He began his career by producing a ground-breaking political and social theory which had wide-reaching effects.

He wrote a novel, Julie, or the New Heloise, that became famous across Europe with its focus on individual sensibility and subjectivity.

He inaugurated the modern genre of autobiography with his Confessions.

In his unfinished Reveries of a Solitary Walker, he continued to meditate on many of the issues which had preoccupied him throughout his career, most notably his belief in the corrupting power of society, the joy of solitude and the boundless wonder of the natural world.

Jean-Jacques Rousseau (painted portrait).jpg
Above: Jean-Jacques Rousseau

From The Reveries of a Solitary Walker, Jean-Jacques Rousseau:

Everything fluctuates on Earth.

Nothing remains in a constant and lasting form.

Those affections which are attached to external things necessarily change with their object.

We are ever looking forward or backward, ruminating on what is past and can return no more, or anticipating the future which may never arrive.

There is nothing solid to which the heart can attach itself.

Neither have we here below any pleasures that are lasting.

Permanent happiness is unknown and scarcely is there an instant in our most lively enjoyments when the heart can truly say:

May this moment last forever!

How then can such a fugitive state be called happiness, which leaves an uneasy void in the heart, which ever prompts us to regret something is past or desire something for the future?

Above: The bluebird of happiness

But if there is a state where the soul can find a hold strong enough to lean securely, to attach its whole being to, without a single wish to recall the past or anticipate the future, where time appears a void and the present is extended without our noticing its duration or tracing its succession, without any idea of privation or enjoyment, pleasure or pain, desire, fear or sensation, except of our evidence, that sentiment alone employing it, while this state lasts, the person who feels it may call himself happy.

Not possessing an imperfect happiness, poor and dependent, but a complete felicity, perfect and full, which leaves no wish or void in the soul.

Isola di Utopia Moro.jpg
Above: The Utopia of Thomas More (1478 – 1535)

In what does the enjoyment of such a situation consist?

In nothing beyond ourselves, nothing foreign to our existence, for while this state lasts the enjoyment of that alone is sufficient felicity.

The consciousness of existence, divested of every other sensation, is a sentiment of contentment and peace, which alone suffices to render it dear satisfactory to whoever can put away those sensual and earthly affections which perpetually disturb and embitter our terrestrial felicity.

Above: Tibetan Buddhist monk

But the greater part of mankind, agitated by continual passions, are little acquainted with this state.

And having imperfectly enjoyed it, during a few instants perhaps, thence form a very inadequate idea, which prevents their feeling its worth.

Perhaps it might not be convenient in the present order things that, lost in pleasing ecstasies mankind should be disgusted with an active life, since their multiplied wants have prescribed it as a duty.

But an unfortunate being, cut off from human society, who can no longer perform anything useful either for himself or for others, may find in this state a pleasing consolation, which neither fortune or man can deprive him of.

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It is true that these consolations cannot be felt by all minds nor in all situations.

It is necessary that the heart should be at peace, that no passion should arise to disturb this calm.

It requires not only a disposition adapted to it on the part of the person who is to experience this felicity, but a concurrence of surrounding objects.

Neither an absolute repose or too much agitation, but a uniform and moderate disposition, not subject to sudden gusts of passion or utter despondency.

Pharrell Williams - Happy.jpg

Without motion, life is but a lethargy.

But if the agitation is unequal or too violent, it awakens our feelings, fixes them too much on external objects, destroys the pleasures of the reverie, and tearing us from ourselves, instantly replaces us under the yoke of fortune and mankind. giving us back the sensation of our misfortunes.

Absolute rest is productive of melancholy and presents the image of death.

Then the assistance of a cheerful imagination is necessary, which voluntarily presents its aid to those on whom Heaven has bestowed it.

This degree of emotion, therefore, is not supplied by outward objects, should arise from within ourselves.

This lessens our repose, it is true, but that portion which remains is a hundred times more agreeable.

Light and pleasing sensations, without disturbing the inward soul, do nothing more than lightly touch the surface.

There should be only just enough to recollect ourselves and forget all our misfortunes.

This kind of meditation may be gratified in every place where tranquillity is found.

Delivered from every worldly passion the tumult of social life engenders, the soul would frequently rise above this atmosphere, conveying itself on the wings of imagination.

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Although Edgar Allan Poe (1809 – 1849) was regarded as a discriminating literary critic in his lifetime, his imaginative works were largely thought to be failures.

He died desperate and misunderstood at the age of 40.

After his death, however, he was recognized as a visionary and a literary genius.

His works have exerted an enormous influence on literature around the world and he is often credited with having invented the detective story and notably contributed to the burgeoning genre of science fiction.

Poe was deeply interested in the notion of modernity and in what distinguished the present moment from the past.

His “The Man of the Crowd” is one of the earliest and most successful literary representations of the specific form of solitude created by the modern city.

1849 "Annie" daguerreotype of Poe
Above: Edgar Allan Poe

From “The Man of the Crowd“, Edgar Allan Poe

It was well said of a certain German book that it does not permit itself to be read.

There are some secrets which do not permit themselves to be told.

Men die nightly in their beds, wringing the hands of ghostly confessors and looking them piteously in the eyes.

Die with despair of heart and convulsion of throat on account of the hideousness of mysteries which will not suffer themselves to be revealed.

Now and then, alas, the conscience of man takes up a burden so heavy in horror that it can be thrown down only into the grave.

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At the close of an autumn evening, Poe sat at the large bow window of a coffee house in London.

For some months he had been ill in health, but was now convalescent.

With returning health, he found himself in one of those happy moods which are so precisely the converse of ennui and the intellect, electrified, surpassing greatly the everyday condition.

Merely to breathe was enjoyment and Poe derived positive pleasure even from many of his legitimate sources of pain.

He felt a calm but inquisitive interest in everything.

With a cigar in his mouth and a newspaper in his lap, Poe amused himself for the greater part of the afternoon, now in poring over advertisements, now in observing the promiscuous company in the room, now in peering through the smoky panes into the street.

The street is one of the principal thoroughfares of the city and it had been very much crowded during the day.

But as darkness descended, the throng increased and by the time lamps were lit two continuous tides of population were rushing past the door.

At this particular period of the evening Poe had never been before in a similar situation.

The tumultuous sea of human heads filled him with a delicious novelty of emotion.

He gave up all care of things within the hotel and became absorbed in contemplation of the scene outside.

UK independent coffee shops achieve highest scores - Comunicaffe  International

Above: Farrer Coffee House, London, England

At first his observations took an abstract and generalizing turn.

Poe looked at the people on procession and thought of them in their aggregate relations.

Soon, however, he descended to details and regarded with minute interest the innumerable varieties of figure, dress, air, gait, visage and expression of countenance.

As the night deepened, so deepened in Poe the interest of the scene, for not only did the general character of the crowd materially alter but the rays of the streetlights, feeble at first in their struggle with the dying day, had now at length gained ascendancy and threw over everything a restless garish glow.

All was dark yet splendid.

The wild effects of the light enchained Poe to an examination of individual faces.

And although the rapidity with which the world of light flitted before the window prevented Poe from casting more than a glance upon each visage, he could frequently read, even in that briefest of intervals of a glance, histories of long years.

In the solitude of the crowd Poe began to understand himself through his perceptions of humanity.

Lights night London England reflection wallpaper | 1920x1200 | 220411 |  WallpaperUP
Above: Night, London, England

Henry David Thoreau (1817 – 1862) was born near Walden Pond – which, despite its name, is actually a lake – in Concord, Massachusetts.

He believed deeply in the importance and value of the natural world and in the dignity of a simple life.

He produced works of poetry, philosophy and natural history, which show his intense appreciation of nature and its processes, and which demonstrate his powerful literary style and his subtle sensibility.

His essay “Resistance to Civil Government” (also known as “Civil Disobedience“) was published in 1849 and influenced activists and thinkers around the world, including Martin Luther King Jr. and Mahatma Gandhi.

Thoreau is best known, however, for Walden, or Life in the Woods (1854), which details the two years he spent living alone in a cabin near Walden Pond.

Benjamin D. Maxham - Henry David Thoreau - Restored - greyscale - straightened.jpg
Above: Henry David Thoreau

Walden is a reflection upon simple living in natural surroundings.

The work is part personal declaration of independence, social experiment, voyage of spiritual discovery, satire, and a manual for self-reliance.

Walden details Thoreau’s experiences over the course of two years, two months, and two days in a cabin he built near Walden Pond amidst woodland owned by his friend and mentor Ralph Waldo Emerson, near Concord, Massachusetts.

Thoreau makes precise scientific observations of nature as well as metaphorical and poetic uses of natural phenomena.

He identifies many plants and animals by both their popular and scientific names, records in detail the color and clarity of different bodies of water, precisely dates and describes the freezing and thawing of the pond, and recounts his experiments to measure the depth and shape of the bottom of the supposedly “bottomless” Walden Pond.

Walden Thoreau.jpg

I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived.

I did not wish to live what was not life, living is so dear.

Nor did I wish to practice resignation, unless it was quite necessary.

I wanted to live deep and suck out all the marrow of life, to live so sturdily and Spartan-like as to put to rout all that was not life, to cut a broad swath and shave close, to drive life into a corner, and reduce it to its lowest terms, and, if it proved to be mean, why then to get the whole and genuine meanness of it, and publish its meanness to the world.

Or if it were sublime, to know it by experience, and be able to give a true account of it in my next excursion.

Above: Walden Pond

Part memoir and part spiritual quest, Walden opens with the announcement that Thoreau spent two years at Walden Pond living a simple life without support of any kind.

Readers are reminded that at the time of publication, Thoreau is back to living among the civilized again.

The book is separated into specific chapters, each of which focuses on specific themes:

Above: Memorial with a replica of Thoreau’s cabin near Walden

Economy: In this first and longest chapter, Thoreau outlines his project: a two-year, two-month, and two-day stay at a cozy, “tightly shingled and plastered“, English-style 10′ × 15′ cottage in the woods near Walden Pond.

He does this, he says, to illustrate the spiritual benefits of a simplified lifestyle.

He easily supplies the four necessities of life (food, shelter, clothing, and fuel) with the help of family and friends, particularly his mother, his best friend, and Mr. and Mrs. Ralph Waldo Emerson.

The latter provided Thoreau with a work exchange:

He could build a small house and plant a garden if he cleared some land on the woodlot and did other chores while there. 

Thoreau meticulously records his expenditures and earnings, demonstrating his understanding of “economy“, as he builds his house and buys and grows food.

Above: The site of Thoreau’s cabin marked by a cairn (1908)

Where I Lived, and What I Lived For: Thoreau recollects thoughts of places he stayed at before selecting Walden Pond, and quotes Roman philosopher Cato’s advice:

Consider buying a farm very carefully before signing the papers.”

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Above: Alleged statue of Roman statesman / historian Marcus Porcius Cato (234–149 BCE) (Cato the Censor, the Elder and the Wise)

His possibilities included a nearby Hollowell farm (where the “wife” unexpectedly decided she wanted to keep the farm).

Thoreau takes to the woods dreaming of an existence free of obligations and full of leisure.

He announces that he resides far from social relationships that mail represents (post office) and the majority of the chapter focuses on his thoughts while constructing and living in his new home at Walden.

Above: Site of Thoreau’s cabin, 2010

Reading: Thoreau discusses the benefits of classical literature and bemoans the lack of sophistication in Concord evident in the popularity of unsophisticated literature.

He also loved to read books by world travellers.

He yearns for a time when each New England village supports “wise men” to educate and thereby ennoble the population.

Above: Concord street signs

Sounds: Thoreau encourages the reader to be “forever on the alert” and “looking always at what is to be seen“.

Although truth can be found in literature, it can equally be found in nature.

In addition to self-development, developing one’s perceptiveness can alleviate boredom.

Rather than “look abroad for amusement, to society and the theatre“, Thoreau’s own life, including supposedly dull pastimes like housework, becomes a source of amusement that “never ceases to be novel“.

Likewise, he obtains pleasure in the sounds that ring around his cabin: church bells ringing, carriages rattling and rumbling, cows lowing, whippoorwills singing, owls hooting, frogs croaking, and cockerels crowing.

All sound heard at the greatest possible distance produces one and the same effect.”

Male and female chicken sitting together.jpg

Solitude: Thoreau reflects on the feeling of solitude.

He explains how loneliness can occur even amid companions if one’s heart is not open to them.

Thoreau meditates on the pleasures of escaping society and the petty things that society entails (gossip, fights, etc.).

He also reflects on his new companion, an old settler who arrives nearby and an old woman with great memory (“memory runs back farther than mythology.”).

Thoreau repeatedly reflects on the benefits of nature and of his deep communion with it and states that the only “medicine he needs is a draught of morning air“.

The philosophy of solitude - from Boethius to Thoreau... - YouTube

Visitors: Thoreau talks about how he enjoys companionship (despite his love for solitude) and always leaves three chairs ready for visitors.

The entire chapter focuses on the coming and going of visitors, and how he has more comers in Walden than he did in the city.

He receives visits from those living or working nearby and gives special attention to a French Canadian born woodsman named Alec Thérien.

Unlike Thoreau, Thérien cannot read or write and is described as leading an “animal life“.

He compares Thérien to Walden Pond itself.

Thoreau then reflects on the women and children who seem to enjoy the pond more than men, and how men are limited because their lives are taken up.

Henry David Thoreau Quote: I had three chairs in my house; one for solitude,  two for friendship, three for society.

The Bean-Field: Reflection on Thoreau’s planting and his enjoyment of this new job/hobby.

He touches upon the joys of his environment, the sights and sounds of nature, but also on the military sounds nearby.

The rest of the chapter focuses on his earnings and his cultivation of crops (including how he spends just under $15 on this).

Of Clay and Wattles Made: Why Beans?

The Village: The chapter focuses on Thoreau’s reflections on the journeys he takes several times a week to Concord, where he gathers the latest gossip and meets with townsmen.

On one of his journeys into Concord, Thoreau is detained and jailed for his refusal to pay a poll tax to the “state that buys and sells men, women, and children, like cattle at the door of its Senate House“.

Henry David Thoreau Spends Night in Jail

The Ponds: In autumn, Thoreau discusses the countryside and writes down his observations about the geography of Walden Pond and its neighbors: Flint’s Pond (or Sandy Pond), White Pond, and Goose Pond.

Although Flint’s is the largest, Thoreau’s favorites are Walden and White ponds, which he describes as lovelier than diamonds.

Thoreau's Walden Pond in Concord, Massachusetts - Business for the Arts of  Broward
Above: Walden Pond

Baker Farm: While on an afternoon ramble in the woods, Thoreau gets caught in a rainstorm and takes shelter in the dirty, dismal hut of John Field, a penniless but hard-working Irish farmhand, and his wife and children.

Thoreau urges Field to live a simple but independent and fulfilling life in the woods, thereby freeing himself of employers and creditors.

But the Irishman will not give up his aspirations of luxury and the quest for the American dream.

Voluntary simplicity for the poor

Higher Laws: Thoreau discusses whether hunting wild animals and eating meat is necessary.

He concludes that the primitive, carnal sensuality of humans drives them to kill and eat animals, and that a person who transcends this propensity is superior to those who cannot.

(Thoreau eats fish and occasionally salt pork and woodchuck.)

In addition to vegetarianism, he lauds chastity, work, and teetotalism.

He also recognizes that Native Americans need to hunt and kill moose for survival in “The Maine Woods“, and eats moose on a trip to Maine while he was living at Walden.

Here is a list of the laws that he mentions:

  • One must love that of the wild just as much as one loves that of the good.
  • What men already know instinctively is true humanity.
  • The hunter is the greatest friend of the animal which is hunted.
  • No human older than an adolescent would wantonly murder any creature which reveres its own life as much as the killer.
  • If the day and the night make one joyful, one is successful.
  • The highest form of self-restraint is when one can subsist not on other animals, but of plants and crops cultivated from the Earth.

Brute Neighbors: This chapter is a simplified version of one of Thoreau’s conversations with William Ellery Channing, who sometimes accompanied Thoreau on fishing trips when Channing had come up from Concord.

The conversation is about a hermit (himself) and a poet (Channing) and how the poet is absorbed in the clouds while the hermit is occupied with the more practical task of getting fish for dinner and how in the end, the poet regrets his failure to catch fish.

The chapter also mentions Thoreau’s interaction with a mouse that he lives with, the scene in which an ant battles a smaller ant, and his frequent encounters with cats.

William Ellery Channing, poet; nephew of the preacher.jpg
Above: American poet William Ellery Channing (1817 – 1901)

House-Warming: After picking November berries in the woods, Thoreau adds a chimney, and finally plasters the walls of his sturdy house to stave off the cold of the oncoming winter.

He also lays in a good supply of firewood, and expresses affection for wood and fire.

Is This the First Tiny House? | Apartment Therapy

Former Inhabitants and Winter Visitors: Thoreau tells the stories of people who formerly lived in the vicinity of Walden Pond.

Then, he talks about a few of the visitors he receives during the winter: a farmer, a woodchopper, and his best friend, the poet Ellery Channing.

John Kaag on Henry David Thoreau and Walden Pond - philosophy sites

Winter Animals: Thoreau amuses himself by watching wildlife during the winter.

He relates his observations of owls, hares, red squirrels, mice, and various birds as they hunt, sing, and eat the scraps and corn he put out for them.

He also describes a fox hunt that passes by.

Winter Animals, from Walden | The Thoreau Society

The Pond in Winter: Thoreau describes Walden Pond as it appears during the winter.

He says he has sounded its depths and located an underground outlet.

Then, he recounts how 100 labourers came to cut great blocks of ice from the pond to be shipped to the Carolinas.

See Why Thoreau's Walden Still Inspires

Spring: As spring arrives, Walden and the other ponds melt with powerful thundering and rumbling.

Thoreau enjoys watching the thaw, and grows ecstatic as he witnesses the green rebirth of nature.

He watches the geese winging their way north, and a hawk playing by itself in the sky.

As nature is reborn, the narrator implies, so is he.

Springtime at Walden Pond Postcard - Alice Wellington

Conclusion: In the final chapter, Thoreau criticizes conformity:

If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer.

Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away.”

By doing so, men may find happiness and self-fulfillment.

I do not say that John or Jonathan will realize all this.

But such is the character of that morrow which mere lapse of time can never make to dawn.

The light which puts out our eyes is darkness to us.

Only that day dawns to which we are awake.

There is more day to dawn.

The sun is but a morning star.




Walden Pond Sunrise Concord MA Photograph by Toby McGuire






Walden is a difficult book to read for three reasons:

First, it was written in an older prose, which uses surgically precise language, extended, allegorical metaphors, long and complex paragraphs and sentences, and vivid, detailed, and insightful descriptions.

Thoreau does not hesitate to use metaphors, allusions, understatement, hyperbole, personification, irony, satire, metonymy, synecdoche, and oxymorons.

He can shift from a scientific to a transcendental point of view in mid-sentence.





Walden by Henry David Thoreau






Second, its logic is based on a different understanding of life, quite contrary to what most people would call common sense.

Ironically, this logic is based on what most people say they believe.

Thoreau, recognizing this, fills Walden with sarcasm, paradoxes and double entendres.

He likes to tease, challenge, and even fool his readers.






Walden: Amazon.co.uk: Thoreau, Henry David: 9789350330777: Books






And third, quite often any words would be inadequate at expressing many of Thoreau’s non-verbal insights into truth.

Thoreau must use non-literal language to express these notions, and the reader must reach out to understand.







Walden by Henry David Thoreau - Free at Loyal Books






Walden emphasizes the importance of solitude, contemplation, and closeness to nature in transcending the “desperate” existence that, he argues, is the lot of most people.

The book is not a traditional autobiography, but combines autobiography with a social critique of contemporary Western culture’s consumerist and materialist attitudes and its distance from and destruction of nature.

Thoreau’s proximity to Concord society and his admiration for classical literature suggest that the book is not simply a criticism of society, but also an attempt to engage creatively with the better aspects of contemporary culture.

There are signs of ambiguity, or an attempt to see an alternative side of something common.








walden-thoreau-book-cover-art-print-canvas ‹ Literary Hub





Some of the major themes that are present within the text are:

Self-reliance: Thoreau constantly refuses to be in “need” of the companionship of others.

Though he realizes its significance and importance, he thinks it unnecessary to always be in search for it.

Self-reliance, to him, is economic and social and is a principle that in terms of financial and interpersonal relations is more valuable than anything.

To Thoreau, self-reliance can be both spiritual as well as economic.

Self-reliance was a key tenet of transcendentalism, famously expressed in Emerson’s essay “Self-Reliance“.





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Above: Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803 – 1882)






Simplicity: Simplicity seems to be Thoreau’s model for life.

Throughout the book, Thoreau constantly seeks to simplify his lifestyle:

He patches his clothes rather than buy new ones, he minimizes his consumer activity, and relies on leisure time and on himself for everything.





Walden: Amazon.co.uk: Thoreau, Henry David: 9781619493919: Books






Progress: In a world where everyone and everything is eager to advance in terms of progress, Thoreau finds it stubborn and skeptical to think that any outward improvement of life can bring inner peace and contentment.






BraveNewWorld FirstEdition.jpg







The need for spiritual awakening: Spiritual awakening is the way to find and realize the truths of life which are often buried under the mounds of daily affairs.

Thoreau holds the spiritual awakening to be a quintessential component of life.

It is the source from which all of the other themes flow.

Man as part of nature

Nature and its reflection of human emotions

The state as unjust and corrupt













Meditation: Thoreau was an avid meditator and often spoke about the benefits of meditating.










Above: Meditation, Alexej von Jawlensky






Patience: Thoreau realizes that the methods he tries to employ at Walden Pond will not be instituted in the near future.

He does not like compromise, so he must wait for change to occur.

He does not go into isolation in the woods of Massachusetts for over two years for his own benefit.

Thoreau wants to transform the world around him, but understands that it will take time.

Patience cover.png

Solitude“, Walden, Henry David Thoreau:

This is a delicious evening when the whole body is one sense and imbibes delight through every pore.

I go and come with a strange liberty in Nature, a part of herself.

As I walk along the stony shore of the pond in my shirt sleeves, though it is cool as well as cloudy and windy, I see nothing special to attract me.

All the elements are unusually congenial to me.

Bullfrogs trump to usher in the night and the note of the whippoorwill is borne on the rippling wind from over the water.

Sympathy with the fluttering alder and poplar leaves almost takes away my breath.

Yet, like the lake, my serendipity is rippled but not ruffled.

These small waves raised by the evening wind are as remote from storm as the smooth reflecting surface.

Though it is now dark, the wind still blows and roars in the wood, the waves still dash, and some creatures lull the rest with their notes.

The Illustrated Walden by Henry David Thoreau: 9780143129264 |  PenguinRandomHouse.com: Books

The repose is never complete.

The wildest animals do not repose, but seek their prey now.

The fox and skunk and rabbit now roam the fields and woods without fear.

They are Nature’s watchmen – links which connect the days of animated life…..

Walden and Civil Disobedience by Henry David Thoreau - Paperback - 18th  printing - 1989 - from Shop-books.ca (SKU: 202001163)

There is commonly sufficient space about us.

Our horizon is never quite at our elbows.

The thick wood is not just at our door, nor the pond, but somewhat is always clearing, familiar and worn by us, appropriated and fenced in some way and reclaimed from Nature.

Paradise Found | The Illustrated Walden or, Life in the Woods | Book Picks

The most sweet and tender, the most innocent and encouraging society may be found in any natural object, even for the poor misanthrope and most melancholy man.

There can be no very black melancholy to him who lives in the midst of Nature and has his senses still.

There was never yet such a storm but it was Aeolian music to a healthy and innocent ear.

Nothing can rightly compel a simple and brave man to a vulgar sadness.

While I enjoy the friendship of the seasons I trust that nothing can make life a burden to me.

The gentle rain which waters the earth and keeps me in the house is not drear and melancholy, but good for me too.

Walden and Civil Disobedience by Henry David Thoreau - Penguin Books  Australia

I have never felt lonesome or in the least oppressed by a sense of solitude.

There is a sweet and beneficent society in Nature, in the very pattering of the rain and in every sound and sight that surround me, an infinite and unaccountable friendliness all at once like an atmosphere sustaining me, making the fancied advantages of human neighbourhood insignificant.

Every little pine needle expands and swells with sympathy and befriends me…..

Some of my most pleasant hours are during the long rainstorms in spring or fall, soothed by their ceaseless roar and pelting.

When an early twilight ushers in a long evening in which many thoughts linger, take root and unfold themselves…..

Walden by Henry David Thoreau | Waterstones

Men frequently say to me:

I should think you would feel lonesome down there and want to be nearer to folks, rainy and snowy nights especially.

I reply:

This whole Earth which we inhabit is but a point in space.

How far apart, think you, dwell the two most inhabitants of yonder star, the breadth of whose disk cannot be appreciated by our instruments?

Why should I feel lonely?

Is not our planet in the Milky Way?

This seems to me not to be the most important question.

What sort of space is that which separates a man from his fellows and makes him solitary?

I have found that no exertion of the legs can bring two minds much nearer to one another.

What do we want most to dwell near to?

Not to many men surely, the depot, the post office, the barroom, the meeting house, the schoolhouse, the grocery, or where men most congregate, but to the perennial source of our life, whence in all our experience we have found that to issue, as the willow stands near the water and sends out its roots in that direction.

This will vary with different natures, but this is the place where a wise man will dig his cellar.

Henry Thoreau - Walden - Used - AbeBooks

One evening I overtook one of my townsmen, who has accumulated what is called a “handsome property“, on the road, driving a pair of cattle to market, who inquired of me how I could bring my mind to give up so many of the comforts of life.

I answered that I was very sure I liked it passably well.

I was not joking.

Photos: A short tour of Walden Pond before Henry David Thoreau's  bicentennial | Library of America

Any prospect of awakening or coming to life to a dead man makes indifferent all times and places.

The place where that may occur is always the same and indescribably pleasant to all our senses.

For the most part we allow only outlying and transient circumstances to make our occasions.

They are, in fact, the cause of our distraction.

Nearest to all things is that power which fashions their being executed.

Next to us is not the workman whom we have hired, with whom we love so well to talk, but the Workman whose work we are.

Henry David Thoreau's Walden: Summary and Analysis - Video & Lesson  Transcript | Study.com

How vast and profound is the influence of the subtle powers of Heaven and Earth!

We seek to perceive them and we do not see them.

We seek to hear them and we do not listen.

Identified with the substance of things we do not see the essence of things.

These powers cause that in all the universe men purify and sanctify their hearts and clothe themselves in their holiday garments to offer sacrifices and oblations to their ancestors.

They are everywhere, above us, on our left, on our right, within and about.

They environ us on all sides.

We are the subjects of an experiment.

Henry David Thoreau: Walden, The Maine Woods, Collected Essays and Poems by  Robert F. Sayre, Elizabeth Hall Witherell | Waterstones

Can we not do without the society of our gossips a little while under these circumstances?

Have our own thoughts to cheer us?

Confucius says truly:

Virtue does not remain us as an abandoned orphan.

It must of necessity have neighbours.

Confucius Tang Dynasty.jpg
Above: The teaching Confucius (551 – 479 BCE)

With thinking we may be beside ourselves in a sane sense.

By a conscious effort of the mind we can stand aloof from actions and their consequences.

And all things, good and bad, go by us like a torrent.

We are not wholly involved in Nature.

I may be either the driftwood in the stream or in the sky looking down on it.

I may be affected by a theatrical exhibition.

On the other hand, I may not be affected by an actual event which appears to concern me much more.

I only know myself as a human entity.

The scene, so to speak, of thoughts and affections.

Da Vinci Vitruve Luc Viatour.jpg
Above: The Vitruvian Man, Leonarda da Vinci (1452 – 1519)

And I am sensible of a certain duality by which I can stand as remote from myself as from another.

However intense my experience, I am conscious of the presence and criticism of a part of me, which, as it were, is not a part of me, but spectator, sharing no experience, but taking note of it.

And that is no more I than it is you.

When the play, it may be a tragedy, of life is over, the spectator goes his way.

It was a kind of fiction, a work of the imagination only, so far as he was concerned.

This duality may easily make us poor neighbours and friends sometimes.

Shakespeare.jpg
Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

I find it wholesome to be alone the greater part of the time.

To be in company, even with the best, is soon wearisome and dissipating.

I love to be alone.

I never found the companion that was so companionable as solitude.

We are for the most part more lonely when we go abroad among men than when we stay in our chambers.

Green Day - Boulevard of Broken Dreams cover.jpg

A man thinking or working is always alone, let him be where he will.

Solitude is not measured by the miles of space that intervene between a man and his fellows.

The really diligent student in one of the crowded hives of Cambridge College is as solitary as a dervish in the desert.

University of Cambridge coat of arms.svg
Above: Coat of arms of Cambridge University

The farmer can work alone in the field or the woods all day, hoeing or chopping, and not feel lonesome, because he is employed.

But when he comes home at night he cannot sit down in a room alone, at the mercy of his thoughts, but must be where he can “see the folks“, and recreate, and as he thinks remunerate, himself for his day’s solitude.

Hence he wonders how the student can sit alone in the house all night and most of the day without ennui and “the blues“.

He does not realize that the student, though in the house, is still at work in his field and chopping in his woods, as the farmer in his, and in turn seeks the same recreation and society that the latter does, though it may be a more condensed form of it.

The Independent Scholar's Handbook: The Indispensable Guide for the  Stubborn Intelligence : Gross, Ronald: Amazon.co.uk: Books

Society is commonly too cheap.

We meet at very short intervals, not having had time to acquire any new value for each other,

We meet at meals and give each other a new taste of that old musty cheese that we are.

We have had to agree on a certain set of rules called etiquette and politeness to make this frequent meeting tolerable, so that we need not come to open war.

We meet at the post office and at the sociable and about the fireside every night.

We live thick and are in each other’s way and stumble over one another.

And I think that we thus lose some respect for one another.

Certainly less frequency would suffice for all important and hearty communications.

Consider the girls in a factory:

Never alone, hardly in their dreams.

It would be better if there were but one inhabitant to a square mile.

I am no more lonely than the loon in the pond that laughs so loud or than Walden Pond itself.

What company has that lonely lake?

The sun is alone.

God is alone.

I am no more lonely than a dandelion in a pasture or a bean leaf or sorrel or horsefly or a humble bumblebee.

I am no more lonely than the Mill Brook or a weathercock or the North Star or the south wind or an April shower or a January thaw or the first spider in a new house.

Pin on SmileCards from The God Box

The indescribable innocence and beneficence of Nature, of sun and wind and rain, of summer and winter.

Such health, such cheer, they afford forever!

And such sympathy have they ever with our race, that all Nature would be affected, and the sun’s brightness fade, and the winds would sigh humanely, and the clouds rain tears, and the woods shed their leaves and put on mourning in midsummer, if any man should ever for a just cause grieve.

Shall I not have intelligence with the Earth?

Am I not partly leaves and vegetable mould myself?

The Blue Marble photograph of Earth, taken by the Apollo 17 mission. The Arabian peninsula, Africa and Madagascar lie in the upper half of the disc, whereas Antarctica is at the bottom.

What is the pill which will keep us well, serene, contented?

Not my or thy great-grandfather’s, but our great-grandmother Nature’s universal, vegetable, botanic medicines, by which she has kept herself young always, outlived so many in her day, and fed her health with their decay.

For my panacea, let me have a draught of undiluted morning air.

Morning air!

If men will not drink of this at the fountainhead of the day, why, then, we must even bottle up some and sell it in the shops, for the benefit of those who have lost their subscription ticket to morning time in this world.

UK company launches $30 bottled air range for homesick expats | CNN Travel

Brought up in England and Italy, Alice Meynell (1847 – 1922) began her career as a writer with Preludes, a poetry collection which she published at the age of 28.

She continued to write poetry throughout her life, but she was also a prolific journalist, editor and essayist.

Towards the end of the 19th century, Meynell became a vocal advocate of those who had suffered at the hands of European colonialism.

Later, she became closely involved in the campaign for women’s suffrage.

Her essay “Solitude” shows her sensitivity to human suffering and her lucid, compelling literary style…..

Above: Alice Meynell (1847 – 1922)

Solitude“, Alice Meynell:

The wild man is alone at will and so is the man for whom civilization has been kind.

But there are the multitudes to whom civilization has given little but its reaction, its rebound and its refuse, its shavings and sawdust, and its failures.

To them solitude is a right foregone or a luxury unattained – a right foregone in the case of the nearly savage or a luxury unattained of the newly refined.

These has the movement of the world thronged together into some blind byway.

SoundsSilence.jpg

Hello darkness, my old friend
I’ve come to talk with you again
Because a vision softly creeping
Left its seeds while I was sleeping
And the vision that was planted in my brain
Still remains
Within the sound of silence

In restless dreams, I walked alone
Narrow streets of cobblestone
‘Neath the halo of a street lamp
I turned my collar to the cold and damp
When my eyes were stabbed by the flash of a neon light
That split the night
And touched the sound of silence

Neath the halo of a street lamp... on We Heart It

And in the naked light, I saw
Ten thousand people, maybe more
People talking without speaking
People hearing without listening
People writing songs that voices never shared
And no one dared
Disturb the sound of silence

Fools” said I, “You do not know
Silence like a cancer grows
Hear my words that I might teach you
Take my arms that I might reach you

But my words, like silent raindrops fell
And echoed in the wells of silence

And the people bowed and prayed
To the neon god they made
And the sign flashed out its warning
In the words that it was forming
Then the sign said, “The words on the prophets are written on the subway walls
In tenement halls

And whispered in the sound of silence.

Sid Meier's Alpha Centauri Secret Project: The Self-Aware Colony - YouTube

Their share in the enormous solitude which is the common, unbounded and virtually illimitable possession of all mankind has lapsed, unclaimed.

They do not know it is theirs.

Of many of their kingdoms they are ignorant, but of this most ignorant.

They have not guessed that they own for every man a space inviolate, a place of unhidden liberty and of no obscure enfranchisement.

They do not claim even the solitude of closed corners, the narrow privacy of the lock and key.

Nor could they command so much.

For the solitude that has a sky and a horizon they know not how to wish.

Inaugural Lecture: Professor Barbara Taylor on Philosophical Solitude -  Queen Mary University of London

It lies in a perpetual distance.

There are leagues thereof, landscapes, verge upon verge, a thousand thousand places in the woods and on uplifted hills.

Solitudes are not to be measured by miles.

They are to be measured by days.

They are freshly and freely the dominion of every man for the day of his possession.

There is loneliness for innumerable solitaries.

As many days as there are in all the ages, so many solitudes are there for men.

This is the open house of the Earth.

No one is refused.

Nor is the space shortened or the silence marred because, one by one, men in multitudes have been alone there before.

Solitude is separate experience.

Nay, solitudes are not to be numbered by days, but by men themselves.

Every man of the living and every man of the dead might have had his “privacy of light“.

The Science of Silence: How Solitude Enriches Creative Work | Inc.com

It needs no park.

It is to be found in the merest working country.

A thicket may be as secret as a forest.

It is not so difficult to get for a time out of sight and earshot.

Even if your solitude be enclosed, it is still an open solitude, so there be “no cloister for the eyes“, and a space of far country or a cloud in the sky be privy to your hiding place.

But the best solitude does not hide at all.

Find a Cloister — Cloistered Life

Thus the people who have drifted together into the streets live whole lives and never know.

Do they suffer from the deprivation of even the solitude of the hiding place?

There are many who never have a whole hour alone.

They live in reluctant or indifferent companionship, as people may in a boarding house, by paradoxical choice, familiar with one another and not intimate.

They live under careless observation and subject to a vagabond curiosity.

Theirs is the involuntary and perhaps the unconscious loss which is futile and barren.

How They Built Forrest Gump's Big Old Southern House for the Movie - Hooked  on Houses
Above: Gump Boarding House, Forrest Gump

One knows the men and the many women who have sacrificed all their solitude to the perpetual society of the school, the cloister or the hospital ward.

They walk without secrecy, candid, simple, visible, without moods, unchangeable, in a constant communication and practice of action and speech.

Theirs assuredly is no barren or futile loss and they have a conviction.

And they bestow the conviction, of solitude deferred.

Georgia student who posted photo of a crowded school hallway and called it  'good and necessary trouble' no longer suspended - CNN

Who has painted solitude so that the solitary seemed to stand alone and inaccessible?

There is the loneliness of the shepherdess in many a drawing.

Above: Shepherdess Seated on a Rock, J. F. Millet

Now, although solitude is a prepared, secured, defended, elaborate possession of the rich, they too deny themselves natural solitude, this unique intimacy found in profound retreat and absolute seclusion.

More than single solitude, it is an isolation more remote than mountains, safer than valleys, deeper than forests, and further than the middle of the ocean.

Above: The Wanderer Above a Sea of Fog, Caspar David Friedrich

A park is by no means necessary for the preparation of a country solitude.

Indeed, to make those far and wide and long approaches and avenues to peace seems to be a denial of the accessibility of what should be so simple.

A step, a pace, is enough to lead thither.

Paintings, Solitude, Page 2398, Art by Independent Artists

If there is a look of human eyes that tells of perpetual loneliness, there is the familiar look that is the sign of perpetual crowds.

It is the quickly caught, though uninterested, look, the dull but ready glance of those who do not know of their forfeited place apart, who have neither the open secret nor the close, no reserve and no need of refuge, no flight nor impulse to fly, no moods but what bravery the street demands, no hope of news from solitary counsels.

Human - Rag'n'Bone Man Single.png

I have often said that within a city it is difficult to believe in God, but in nature it is difficult to deny Him.

Welcome to Ridleyville: How Hong Kong Inspired Blade Runner - Discovery

There is an undefinable duality I experience in my moments of solitude, especially when this solitude is practiced beyond my chambers.

I simultaneously feel as insignificant in the cosmos as an ant beneath my boot unseen in the grass below, and I am also keenly aware of my individuality and its importance in the universe (or at least in my own universe).

I am part of the circle of life and I am apart from the life I am encircled by.

I am alone in a crowd and in the cosmos, and yet within myself I contain multitudes.

Yin and yang.svg

Certainly I am in no way suggesting that I or anyone should wish to become a hermit like Kamo no Chomei or even semi-hermetic in the manner of Thoreau.

I don’t wish to isolate myself in a citadel or an island of my self-imposed retreat from the world like De Montaigne or Rousseau.

Hermit Praying in the Wilderness - The Leiden Collection

Like Poe and Meynell suggest, I believe I can find wisdom remaining quiet in a crowd and find sanctuary wheresoever I may be.

But truth be told my thoughts turn to my homeland and the true North where my soul’s compass directs me.

Grey Owl, Tales of an Empty Cabin:

A black-and-white photo of Grey Owl looking sideways
Above: Writer and conservationist Archibald Belaney (aka Grey Owl) (1888 – 1938)

In a valley deep amongst the looming hills that sweeps in heaving undulation northward from the height of land, there lies a little hidden nameless lake.

It is not beautiful, this narrow shallow pond, for receding waters have left on the margin of its shores a waste of swamp and cat-tails.

Protruding rocks that there were once upon a time submerged now stand out bleached and bleakly naked at every angle like neglected headstones in some long forgotten graveyard.

From the foot of the pond there winds a portage trail on which no foot of man has trod, cluttered with fallen timber that leads on downstream to a landing on a larger lake, which in its turn empties into a chain of waters ever increasing in size and volume, with tributaries that fall from off the Great Divide, eventually becoming a roaring rushing mighty river that pours its essence into the Arctic Ocean.

Clearlake.JPG
Above: Clear Lake, Riding Mountain National Park, Manitoba, Canada

At the outset of this obscure and sunken source that had once been a lake of some account is an old and long untended beaver dam, a monument to the energy and patience of its builders, its summit a full four feet above the present level of the sheet of water.

At the eroded centre of its arc a small stream trickles through, seeming to mutter drowsily as it goes.

The sound it makes is a voice that speaks indistinctly in a dream, so that what it says is lost.

All around are works, very old, yet having about them a remarkable air of permanency and purposeful intent, though none of them are of man’s construction or design.

Inclining down towards the lake, from out of the woods along the shoreline, are disused runways, the hauling trails of a long departed colony of beaver, well-laid as to grade, opportunity and bearing.

Even after a long lapse of many years the hallmarks of the skill and labour expended on their endeavours remains.

At the head of these highways, down which the expertly-felled trees had been transported, are innumerable stumps, the very teeth marks of the workers still discernible upon them.

Nearby is a beaver house, its tenants long since gathered to their forefathers, stranded high beyond the fallen water’s edge, its secret entrance now exposed to preying eyes and its once well-plastered walls all overgrown with hay and willow saplings, yet staunch and strong for many years to come, is a mute and melancholy tribute to the talent of its builders.

A crouching man in buckskins feeds a roll to a standing beaver.
Above: Grey Owl feeding a Swiss roll to a beaver

Opposite the lodge is a grove of pine trees, looming large and dark above the prospect, uncommon trees beyond the Great Divide.

On account of this rarity they seem to stand in grim exclusiveness, remote and unapproachable, above the common run of trees that hem them in.

Among them are interspersed a scattering of pale birches, slim and tall in appearance, though their bright green tops, seeking the light-giving light of the sun, scarcely reach above the lower limbs of the towering conifers.

In the shelter of the glade, solitary evidence of man’s sojourn, is a small log cabin, tenantless and lonely, moss long since fallen from the gaps between the timbers, its door ajar, its windows staring blankly out at the beholder.

A humble habitation it had been, even at its best, yet much care had been bestowed upon its construction.

Rude but not unartistic ornaments, of which some still remain, had at one time decked its bare and plain simplicity.

Tales of an Empty Cabin by Grey Owl

Happiness had been there too.

Neglected and abandoned, now mouldering to slow decay, it once had been a place of life and movement, of hope and ambition and adventure.

It had been a shelter and a home where its inhabitants had once had their day, had trod upon this unpretentious stage, said their piece and played their part, and added to the history of this place.

And somehow the actors in these scenes will never quite be gone.

Long after they that sojourned here, what they did or said, has become legend and tradition, their souls will linger on.

The aura of their vanished presence has settled in the memory-haunted vale and will ever invest the still lake, the broken dam, the deserted lodge and the ruined empty cabin and the environs around them, with something of their lives and aims and being.

There is a light and evanescent touch of some unseen presence.

The air is strangely stirred and filled with a faint rustling of tiny footfalls and soundless unseen wings.

Modern influences have taken away much of the romance, picturesque appearance and exotic atmosphere of the wilderness.

But I take comfort in knowing that I am not lost, I am not truly alone, that the cabin has never been truly empty.

In Search of a Legend - Grey Owl - Fork on the Move:Fork on the Move:

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire / Kamo no Chomei, Notes from a Ten-Foot Square Hut / Ralph Waldo Emerson, Self-Reliance / Aldo Leopold, A Sand County Almanac / Alice Meynell, Solitude / Michel de Montaigne, On Solitude / Grey Owl, Tales of an Empty Cabin / Edgar Allan Poe, The Man of the Crowd / Jean Jacques Rousseau, The Reveries of a Solitary Walker / Zachary Seager, The Art of Solitude / Henry David Thoreau, Walden

Canada Slim and That Which Can’t Be Had

Eskisehir, Turkey, Friday 7 May 2021

It is odd what can get under one’s skin.

On Wednesday morning, just before leaving my apartment to catch a train to Konya, my only practical knife decided to break.

This afternoon I walked over to ES Park shopping centre and the sole store open in this latest “total” lockdown (MMM Migros) (not sure of the reason for the MMM) to buy a knife.

Anything that isn’t edible, save for newspapers, (perhaps they are edible as well?) has been cordoned off with sticky tape resembling that securing a crime scene investigation.

I was somewhat mystified last week as to why all alcoholic beverages were rendered off-limits to consumers and I figure that the rationale must be that alcohol drinking is a social activity and socializing spreads a pandemic.

But I am baffled and bothered as to why buying a frying pan or a knife or a pen constitutes a clear and present danger to the health of the Turkish people.

The argument I hear is that the pandemic is airborne but can be transmitted onto the surfaces of anything that has come into contact with the virus.

But if this is so and a person with the virus comes into the store and shops only in the designated areas, he/she will nevertheless transmit the virus onto the edibles anyway.

The virus’ spread isn’t so much affected by too many tactile surfaces that a person can touch, but rather too many people who won’t wear their masks in the correct manner, with both mouth and nose completely covered.

Honestly, I am not certain if the powers that be truly know what to do in these extraordinary times.

Flag of Turkey

Above: Flag of Turkey

If the media can be believed, people last week continued to violate Turkey’s curfew rules after the country entered a “full” lockdown that will last for 17 days.

COVID-19 in Turkey - Cumulative positive cases per 100k residents.svg
Above: Covid-19 in Turkey – Cumulative positive cases per 100k residents as of 7 May 2021 (The darker the region, the more cases therein) (As of 11 May 2021, there are 5, 059, 033 cases (29% of the population) with 43,589 deaths.)

Some 66,161 people broke curfew rules between 26 April and 3 May, the country’s Interior Ministry said on Monday (3 May).

A man walks on otherwise busy Istiklal Avenue, in Istanbul, Turkey, May 3, 2021. (AA PHOTO)

The Ministry, however, stressed that a majority of citizens obeyed the lockdown which came into effect on the evening of 29 April.

Data provided by the Ministry show that the number of people who violated the weeknight curfews and weekend lockdowns stood at 42,000 between 19 April and 26 April, rising from 33,000 in the previous week.

Ministry of the Interior (Turkey) logo.svg
Above: Logo of the Ministry of the Interior

From 5 April and 12 April, authorities took procedural and administrative actions against a total of 24,400 violators.

The increase in the number of people subjected to actions for violating the curfews could be related to intensified nationwide in the wake of the full lockdown.

Limited violations reported during weekend COVID-19 curfew in Turkey |  Daily Sabah

The government imposed the full lockdown in an attempt to curb the spread of the corona virus after the daily infections and deaths from Covid-19 climbed record highs.

SARS-CoV-2 without background.png

During the 17-day lockdown, most businesses, except for those operating in essential industries, will be closed while intercity travel is also banned and subjected to special permission from authorities.

Authorities are issuing special permits for employees who are exempted from the lockdown.

The Interior Ministry reported on 3 May that nearly 4 million such permission documents have been issued via the online registry system e-Devlet.

Long lockdown triggers exodus from big cities - Turkey News

Police units are carrying our inspections, setting up checkpoints in and around cities and on highways to enforce the travel ban.

The authorities are also issuing special travel exemption permits for certain emergencies.

Curfew violations continue amid full lockdown - Turkey News

I have seen checkpoints.

I have not seen arrests.

I have not read anything about anyone arrested.

Over 2 million exemption permits issued during Turkey's lockdown - Turkey  News

It seems that, if the media is to be believed, more than 10 million people in Turkey have already been given both doses of the Covid-19 vaccine, while nearly 14.4 million people have received their first dose of the jab, data from the country’s Health Ministry have shown.

Turkey's COVID-19 vaccination goes on at full speed

Turkey launched its vaccination program against the corona virus on 14 January.

To date, it had administered more than 24.4 million doses of the injection to its citizens, including the first and the second doses.

COVID-19 vaccinations in Turkey exceed 1 million in 1st week | Daily Sabah

Turkey has inked agreements for a total of 240 million doses of the corona virus vaccines developed by the Chinese firm Sinovac, Pfizer/BioNTech and Russia’s Sputnik V, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca reminded following a Science Board meeting on 5 May, noting that there is three times the country’s population.

See caption
Above: Russia’s Sputnik 5 vaccine

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Above: Fahrettin Koca

To date, Turkey has signed deals for 100 million doses of the Pfizer-BioNTech and another 50 million doses of the Sputnik V vaccines.

Covid19 vaccine biontech pfizer 3.jpg

It has been using the Chinese and the Pfizer/BioNTech injections in its inoculation drive.

SINOVAC COVID-19 vaccine.jpg

Koca also said that the daily number of virus cases has declined over the past 15 days thanks to measures and restrictions imposed to curb the spread of Covid-19.

The effects of this decline have also started to be seen in hospitalization with a ten-day lag, he added.

The government introduced a full lockdown from 29 April to 17 May after Covid-19 infections hit record highs, hitting around 60,000 daily cases.

Infections fell below 50,000 starting 23 April and continued to decline gradually in the following days, coming down to some 26,500 on 5 May.

The favourable impact of those measures will also be seen in the numbr of patients in critical condition and fatalities in these days,” Koca said.

COVID-19: Turkey announces full lockdown from Thursday

Talk on the street does not seem to correlate with the media’s spin.

No one seems to know anyone who has received the vaccine.

Rumours suggest that the vaccine may be running out.

No one knows what to believe or whom to trust.

All I know is I cannot buy a knife for my kitchen and must eat meat from my hand and tear it apart with my teeth.

Fortunately, I still have fire and language, so I haven’t completely devolved yet.

Premium Vector | Cartoon caveman eating meat

Still the lockdown has put a number of things into perspective.

Namely, a keen awareness of loss, a disappointment, an anger, a deeply-felt sadness, in the belated recognition that what we once had is now unavailable to us.

We cannot acquire what we once did, cannot celebrate life as we once did, cannot move about as we once did, cannot live as we did before.

We do survive nonetheless.

We learn to do without.

We learn to not do what we once did.

Turkish Lockdown Calls Grow as Epidemic Continues | Voice of America -  English

I am reminded of the movie Down and Out in Beverly Hills.

Imagine a world where you are surrounded by everything you cannot have, seeing others do what you cannot do.

They who have cannot perceive a life of the have-nots until they themselves have not.

You cannot truly comprehend a life of prosperity if you yourself have not prospered.

So we try to find what joys we can within the realities we know.

For some, there comes a time when the reality they know must be abandoned for the chance of finding another reality.

Down and Out in Beverly Hills.jpg

For some, there is a moment when they wonder what Shakespeare really meant when he wrote:

There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio,
Than are dreamt of in your philosophy
.”


– Hamlet (Act 1, Scene 5, Stanzas 167-8), Hamlet to Horatio

Is there more to life, more to living, than what we know, than what we have experienced?

A lockdown puts life into perspective.

We see what we once had and appreciate it only once it is denied us.

It is not without irony that this particular lockdown is happening within the month of Ramadan.

Turkey braces for toughest lockdown against COVID-19 pandemic | Daily Sabah

Ramadan, the month of the fast, whose name comes from the Arabic root r-m-d, “the green heat“, from the soaring heat in the deserts of Arabia, is the 9th month of the Muslim calendar.

It is special month for Muslims, and thus for Turks, as it was during this month that Muhammad received the call to be a prophet, and God (Allah) Himself instructed that this month should be the official month of fasting.

Ramadan is abut remembering to take nothing for granted and about removing daily distractions so that the mind is better able to focus on closeness with Allah.

On a practical level, this means no eating, drinking, smoking or sex from dawn to sunset for an entire month.

In the wider scheme, while fasting it is especially encouraged that the believer avoids sin, such as lying, violence, greed, lust, slander, anger, and evil thoughts.

The fast is about self-discipline and a Muslim is called to make an extra effort to cultivate a more spiritual outlook.

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Above: Images of Ramadan

The observance of Ramadan is regarded as a source of blessing and not as a time of trial.

Muslims generally look forward to this time of bodily and spiritual cleansing, and do not view it as being arduous or a chore.

They hold it as a special period that brings them back in touch with the values at the heart of their faith.

They see it as a healthy time, during which rich foods are avoided and their digestive systems can be rested and cleaned.

At Ramadan, Muslims are given the opportunity to master all their natural appetites, mental, spiritual and physical.

It also allows them an opportunity to get together with friends and family, and to share their food after the hour of sunset.

According to Islamic tradition, during this time the gates of Heaven are opened, the gates of Hell are closed, and Satan is put into chains.

Hence, fasting during Ramadan is considered thirty times better than at any other time, although many Muslims do fast at other times, some even on a weekly basis.

Mobile Behavior in Turkey During Ramadan - AdColony

(By this standard, I am certain that I could never be a Muslim.)

Muslims welcome holy month of Ramadan

Ramadan observances do vary slightly from culture to culture, but most Muslims begin the fast, according to the Qu’ran‘s instruction, at the moment when dawn makes it possible to distinguish “a white thread from a black thread“.

They then break the fast as soon as possible at sunset, eating a light meal later in the evening, with perhaps a final light meal in the early pre-dawn hours before the next morning’s fast begins – but this all depends on local custom and personal preference.

The evening is a time of relaxation, of visiting, of prayer and Qur’anic recitation.

Printed Qur’ans divide the text into thirty sections to facilitate reading the whole book during Ramadan.

Many Muslims accomplish this.

Sounds of recitation punctuate the evening air.

Many go to the mosque during the evening, especially during the last ten days of the month.

Çay, Dolma and Künefe: A Look into a Delicious Turkish Ramadan | Mvslim

(Or would if the lockdown permitted.)

Government weighing stricter measures during Ramadan - Turkey News

Muslims say that Ramadan demands a certain spiritual attitude towards the body.

The hunger, supplemented by the prohibition on perfume and make-up, brings a Muslim back every year to what is regarded as a more natural state.

Whether it be experiencing the hunger of the less fortunate, expiating one’s sins, forgiving others theirs, renewing contact with one’s nearest and dearest, or simply taming one’s passions, a time of fasting is about reflection and contemplation, a return to the core values of Islam, and a reassessment of what it means to be a Muslim.

Whatever cultural variances exist between customs at Ramadan, overall the month is seen by Muslims as a very special time.

There is a feeling of camarderie.

The fast is a great leveller and brings out the best in everyone, whether rich or poor.

The problem is camarderie breeds contagion and thus the reason for the lockdown.

For our individual survival we must remain apart, separate from one another.

Collective Ramadan prayers cancelled amid virus scare in Turkey | Daily  Sabah

And it was this theme that followed our footsteps this past Valentine’s Day as we prepared ourselves for the separation to come….

Antique Valentine 1909 01.jpg

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Sunday 14 February 2021

I cannot speak of the lives of other married couples, for no man can know of another man’s relationship with his maiden.

Or put another way, in the words of Charlie Rich:

No one knows what goes on behind closed doors.

Cover of the Behind Closed Doors album with the singer Charlie Rich in a cowboy hat.

As well, I am an introverted man from a culture and a generation where men, even the closest of friends, do not share details of intimacy about their significant others.

The secrets of the bedroom are rarely the confessions of the barroom (or the blogpost).

I am not of the generation which tells all online, though I cannot deny that there is within me a certain begruding admiration for those who are courageous enough to reveal themselves so fearlessly and publicly.

I am not as brave.

Above: Photo from Jupiter’s Lair WordPress blog (https://jupiterslair.com)

On this Valentine’s Day 2021 the headlines were as grim as they ever were with the predominant headlines still those connected with Covid-19.

Stop Reading the News: A Manifesto for a Happier, Calmer and Wiser Life:  Dobelli, Rolf: Amazon.com.tr

Peru’s Foreign Minister Elizabeth Astete resigned amid an uproar over secret vaccination before the country receives one million doses for health workers.

Peru’s Foreign Minister has resigned amid uproar over government officials being secretly vaccinated against corona virus before the country recently received 1 million doses for health workers facing a resurgence in the pandemic.

Esther Astete 02 (cropped).jpg
Above: Elizabeth Astete

President Francisco Sagasti confirmed that Elizabeth Astete had stepped down and told a local television channel that Peruvians should feel “outraged and angry about this situation that jeopardises the enormous effort of many Peruvians working on the frontline against Covid”.

Francisco Sagasti president.jpg
Above: Peruvian President Francisco Sagasti

The scandal erupted on Thursday when the former President Martín Vizcarra, who was dismissed by Congress on 9 November over a corruption allegation, confirmed a newspaper report that he and his wife had secretly received shots of a vaccine from the Chinese state pharmaceutical company Sinopharm in October.

Martin Vizcarra (Presidential Portrait) (cropped).jpg
Above: Martin Vizcarra

Pilar Mazzetti resigned as Health Minister on Friday after legislators accused her of concealing information.

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Above: Pilar Mazetti

Sagasti tweeted that during Vizcarra’s administration, an extra 2,000 doses of the vaccine had been received from Sinopharm and that “some senior public officials were vaccinated”.

Sinopharm COVID-19 vaccine (2021) K (cropped).jpeg
Above: Sinopharm Coivd-19 vaccine

The new Health Minister, Óscar Ugarte, said on Sunday night that Sagasti had ordered the resignation of all officials who secretly received the Chinese vaccine.

Ugarte said an investigation was under way to identify officials who were secretly vaccinated in September.

Óscar Ugarte.jpg
Above: Óscar Ugarte

Astete, who led the Peruvian negotiations to buy the 1 million doses of Sinopharm’s vaccine, released a statement on Sunday in which she said she was vaccinated with the first dose on 22 January.

“I am aware of the serious mistake I made, which is why I decided not to receive the second dose.”

Peru bought the vaccines in early January at a price that is secret under the contract.

Doctors and nurses have protested because they were not included in the first lists to be vaccinated with doses received from Sinopharm.

The pandemic has caused the deaths of 306 doctors and 125 nurses, with more than 20,000 doctors and nurses being infected.

Peru has had more than 1.2 million cases of corona virus, with 43,703 deaths related to Covid-19, according to Johns Hopkins University’s tally of cases around the world.

Flag of Peru
Above: Flag of Peru

Myanmar’s new military regime warned the public not to harbour fugitive political activists on Sunday (14 February) after issuing arrest warrants for veteran democracy campaigners supporting massive nationwide anti-coup protests.

Much of the country has been in uproar since the previous week when soldiers detained Aung San Suu Kyi and ousted her government, ending a decade-old fledgeling democracy after generations of junta rule.

Remise du Prix Sakharov à Aung San Suu Kyi Strasbourg 22 octobre 2013-18.jpg
Above: Aung San Suu Kyi

Security forces have stepped up arrests of doctors and others joining a civil disobedience movement that has seen huge crowds throng streets across big urban centres and isolated villages in mountainous frontier communities.

Police are now hunting seven people who have lent vocal support to the protests, including some of the country’s most famous democracy activists.

If you find any fugitives mentioned above or if you have information about them, report to the nearest police station,” said a notice in state media on Sunday.

Those who receive them will face action in accordance with the law.

Above: Thousands of protesters participate in an anti-military rally in Yangon

Among the list of fugitives was Min Ko Naing, who spent more than a decade in prison for helping lead protests against an earlier dictatorship in 1988 while a university student.

They are arresting the people at night and we have to be careful,” he said in a video published Saturday to Facebook, skirting a junta ban on the platform, hours before his arrest warrant was issued.

They could crack down forcefully and we will have to be prepared.”

MKN2.jpg
Above: Min Ko Naing

The 1988 protests vaulted Aung San Suu Kyi to the top of Myanmar’s democracy movement, and the Nobel laureate spent years under house arrest as a prisoner of the generals.

She has not been seen in public since she was detained on 1 February alongside top aides.

Nearly 400 others have been arrested in the days since including many of Aung San Suu Kyi’s top political allies, according to the Assistance Association for Political Prisoners monitoring group.

Assistance Association for Political Prisoners logo.png
Above: Logo of the Assistance Association for Political Prisoners (AAPP)

Military leader Min Aung Hlaing suspended requiring warrants for home searches and limiting detentions without court orders to 24 hours as part of several legal manoeuvres issued on Saturday.

Min Aung Hlaing in April 2019 (cropped).jpg
Above: Min Aung Hlaing

People in some urban neighbourhoods have begun forming neighbourhood watch brigades to monitor their communities overnight – defying a junta curfew – and prevent the arrests of residents participating in the civil disobedience movement.

Crowds returned to the streets of Yangon on Sunday, with hundreds massing on an intersection near the commercial capital’s famed Shwedagon Pagoda.

Shwedagon Pagoda 2017.jpg
Above: Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

A day earlier, Buddhist monks gathered outside the city’s US embassy and chanted the Metta Sutta, a prayer that urges protection from harm.

We wanted them to know most citizens in Myanmar are against the military,” said Vicittalankara, one of the participants.

Anger over arrests in Myanmar at anti-coup protests - News Chant

The country’s new military leadership has so far been unmoved by a torrent of international condemnation.

An emergency session of the UN Human Rights Council on Friday called for the new regime to release all “arbitrarily detained” people and for the military to hand power back to Aung San Suu Kyi’s administration.

United Nations Human Rights Council Logo.svg
Above: Logo for the United Nations Human Rights Council (UNHRC)

Solidarity protests have been staged in neighbouring Thailand, home to a large community of Myanmar migrant workers, as well as the United States, Japan and Australia.

But traditional allies of the country’s armed forces, including Russia and China, have dissociated themselves from what they have described as interference in Myanmar’s “internal affairs“.

The junta insists it took power lawfully and has instructed journalists in the country not to refer to itself as a government that took power in a coup.

We inform journalists and news media organisations not to write to cause public unrest,” said a notice sent by the information ministry to the country’s foreign correspondents’ club late on Saturday.

It also instructed reporters to follow “news media ethics” while reporting events in the country.

Flag of Myanmar
Above: Flag of Myanmar

Guinea has declared an Ebola epidemic after three people died and four others became ill in the country’s southeast.

The seven people fell ill with diarrhoea, vomiting and bleeding after attending a burial in Goueke, near the Liberian border.

The infected patients have been isolated in treatment centres, the health ministry said on Sunday.

Faced with this situation and in accordance with international health regulations, the Guinean government declares an Ebola epidemic,” the ministry said in a statement.

The deaths are the first in Guinea since a 2013-2016 epidemic which left 11,300 dead across West Africa [File: Cellou Binani/AFP]

Health Minister Remy Lamah said officials were “really concerned” about the deaths, the first since a 2013 – 2016 epidemic  – which began in Guinea – left 11,300 dead across West Africa.

The vast majority of cases were in Guinea, Liberia and Sierra Leone.

A second round of tests is being carried out to confirm the latest Ebola diagnosis and health workers are working to trace and isolate the contacts of the cases, state health agency ANSS said.

Pourquoi les travailleurs de la santé sont importants, par Dr. Col. Rémy  Lamah - YouTube
Above: Remy Lamah

It reported Guinea would contact the World Health Organization (WHO) and other international health agencies to acquire Ebola vaccines.

The vaccines have greatly improved survival rates in recent years.

Dr Matshidiso Moeti, the WHO Regional Director for Africa, said the resurgence of Ebola in Guinea was a “huge concern”.

Health teams in Guinea are on the move to quickly trace the path of the virus and curb further infections,” she said.

WHO is supporting the authorities to set up testing, contact-tracing and treatment structures and to bring the overall response to full speed.”

World Health Organization Logo.svg

Speaking to Al Jazeera from the Guinean capital, Conakry, Dr Yuma Taido – of the International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies – said it was not clear how people had come into contact with the virus.

We are preparing to manage the outbreak.

We can’t explain yet how this epidemic came about.

The response team are heading to the epicentre of the outbreak from today,” Taido said.

Two flags waving
Above: Flags of the Red Cross and the Red Crescent

Meanwhile next door in Liberia, President George Weah on Sunday put his country’s health authorities on heightened alert.

Weah “has mandated the Liberian health authorities and related stakeholders in the sector to heighten the country’s surveillance and preventative activities in the wake of reports of the emergence of the deadly Ebola virus disease in neighbouring Guinea”, his office said in a statement.

President George Weah in 2019 (cropped).jpg
Above: Liberian President George Weah

Neighouring DRC has faced several outbreaks of the illness, with the WHO on Thursday confirming a resurgence three months after authorities declared the end of the country’s latest outbreak.

DRC, which declared the six-month epidemic over in November, confirmed a fourth case in North Kivu province on Sunday.

The widespread use of Ebola vaccinations, which were administered to more than 40,000 people, helped curb the disease.

Flag of Democratic Republic of the Congo
Above: Flag of the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC)

The 2013 – 2016 spread sped up the development of the vaccine against Ebola, with a global emergency stockpile of 500,000 doses planned to respond quickly to future outbreaks, the vaccine alliance Gavi said in January.

Gavi, the Vaccine Alliance

Insurgents killed at least 11 civilians and three soldiers in the northeastern Democratic Republic of Congo on Sunday, the army said.

Fighters from the Allied Democratic Forces (ADF) attacked the town of Ndalya in Ituri region, killing at least 11 civilians, Ituri province army spokesman Lieutenant Jules Ngongo told AFP.

He added that in the ensuing fighting “three members of the armed forces fell on the battlefield” and the troops “neutralised four ADF elements“.

The enemy retreated into the bush,” he said.

We are still pursuing them so that we can put the people out of danger.

Ndalya is about 100 kilometres (60 miles) from the Ituri capital Bunia.

16 Killed, Church Burned When Suspected Islamic Terrorists Attack Village  in Africa's DRC - Tendo Radio

After a month of relative calm, a resurgence of attacks attributed to the ADF began earlier this month.

Originally Muslim rebels from neighbouring Uganda, the ADF settled in the DRC in 1995.

Flag of the Allied Democratic Forces.svg
Above: Flag of the Allied Democratic Forces

The UN has said 468 deaths in the east were attributed to the ADF in the second half of 2020, including 108 women and 15 children.

Flag of United Nations Arabic: منظمة الأمم المتحدة‎ Chinese: 联合国 French: Organisation des Nations unies Russian: Организация Объединённых Наций Spanish: Organización de las Naciones Unidas
Above: Flag of the United Nations

Militants of the outlawed Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK) have executed 13 kidnapped Turks, including military and police personnel, in a cave in northern Iraq, Turkish officials said on Sunday, amid a military operation against the group.

Forty eight PKK militants were killed during the military operation, while three Turkish soldiers were killed and three wounded, Defence Minister Hulusi Akar said in a statement.

Twelve of the kidnapped Turks had been shot in the head and one in the shoulder, he said.

Turkey launched the military operation against the PKK in northern Iraq’s Gara region, some 35 km (22 miles) south of the Turkish border, on 10 February to secure its frontier and find citizens who had been kidnapped previously, he said.

The governor of Malatya province in southeast Turkey named six soldiers and two police officers, kidnapped in separate incidents in 2015 and 2016, as being among those killed in the cave.

Three of the dead have yet to be identified in autopsies being carried out in Malatya.

One senior security source told Reuters that Turkish intelligence personnel were among the dead.

According to initial information given by two terrorists captured alive, our citizens were martyred at the start of the operation by the terrorist responsible for the cave,” Akar said at the operation’s control centre near the Iraq border.

Hulusi Akar (cropped, 2019).jpg
Above: Hulusi Akar

A statement on a PKK website said some prisoners it was holding, including Turkish intelligence, police and military personnel, had died during clashes in the area.

The group denied it had ever hurt prisoners.

The PKK, designated a terrorist group by Turkey, the United States and European Union, launched its armed insurgency in mainly Kurdish southeast Turkey in 1984 and more than 40,000 people have been killed in the conflict.

In the last two years Turkey’s fight against the PKK has increasingly focused on northern Iraq, where the group has its stronghold in the Qandil mountains on the Iranian border.

Flag of Kurdistan Workers' Party.svg
Above: Flag of the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK)

The presidency’s communications director Fahrettin Altun said on Twitter that as Turkey mourns it dead it also reiterates its commitment to “chase down every last terrorist hiding in their caves and safe houses”.

Our revenge will be painful.

Our justice will be swift,” he said, slamming the West’s “deafening silence” in the face of PKK attacks and pledging “steps against individuals and groups glorifying and encouraging terrorism at home and abroad”.

Fahrettin Altun'un paylaşımlarını yayan 'sahte hesap ordusu' ortaya çıktı
Above: Fahrettin Altun

In 2017, Turkey’s foreign minister said Ankara was working to bring back citizens he said had been kidnapped by the PKK, after Turkish media reported two Turkish intelligence officers had been captured by the PKK in Iraq.

Mevlut Cavusoglu portrait.jpg
Above: Turkish Foreign Minister Mevlut Cavusoglu

Not in Peru, Myanmar, the Congo or in Turkey did the day seem to be expressive of love.

Where Is the Love - Roberta Flack and Donny Hathaway.jpg

As I have written in my last blogpost, Germans (of which my wife is one) generally do not celebrate Valentine’s Day in the manner in which my North American, British or Australasian friends do, but under my influence she has compromised over the years to the point where we would have a Valentine’s Day dinner, usually over the border in Konstanz, Germany.

But Valentine’s Day 2021 meant restaurants in both Switzerland and Germany were closed and though mask wearing outdoors was no longer practiced in Switzerland, dining out still remained impossible at this time.

Unable to dine out as we formerly did, we did something we often do when we wish to engage in discussion with one another.

We went for a walk.

Flag of Germany
Above: Flag of Germany

I will never claim to be an expert on relationships, despite having been in a long-term one with my wife for a quarter of a century.

But there seems to be a certain truism in the notion that they rarely evolve in the manner in which one had expected.

Men-Mars-Women-Venus-Cover.jpg

Marriage, also called matrimony or wedlock, is a culturally recognised union between people, called spouses, that establishes rights and obligations between them, as well as between them and their children, and between them and their in-laws.

(I find the inclusion of “lock” in combination with “wed” interesting.)

Above: Love padlocks, Butchers’ Bridge, Ljubljana, Slovenia

And it is in this definition where problems arise between couples in the individual interpretation of what precisely is meant by “rights and obligations“, what one should get from the marriage, what one should give to the marriage.

Above: The ancient Germanic married couple Arminius (18 BC – 21 AD) and Thusnelda engaged in a romantic encounter

It is considered a cultural universal, but the definition of marriage varies between cultures and religions, and over time.

Above: Nepali wedding

I cannot speak to the variation of marriages between religions, though I am acquainted with couples from different faiths.

Ute and I are, statistically, of the same Christian faith, but beyond our origins she remains a good Catholic and I, at best, could be considered an uncommitted agnostic if not faithless barbarian.

R.E.M. - Losing My Religion.jpg

Our different cultural roots have caused tensions between us.

There are indeed differences between those raised as Canadians and those raised as Germans.

If I had to choose one main difference between our cultures it would be in our approaches to decision-making.

A vertical triband design (red, white, red) with a red maple leaf in the center.
Above: Flag of Canada

Generally speaking, from my perspective, a German will make a decision only if he / she has meticulously planned the outcome and has prepared for the inevitable result that was calculated.

A Canadian, on the other hand, while no less wise, is more laissez-faire in this regard, assuming that even the best-laid plans can, and probably will, go astray.

Embassy and Consulates of the Federal Republic of Germany in Canada | So  German!
Above: German Embassy, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

A German will do a thing only when he / she is certain that it is a wise and permissible thing to do.

A Canadian will do a thing until he / she is certain that it is not wise or permissible to do something.

Canadian Embassy Berlin / KPMB Architects with Gagnon + Gagnon Letellier  Cyr architectes + Smith Carter Architects + Engineers | ArchDaily
Above: Canadian Embassy, Berlin, Germany

A German will try something and will be utterly shocked when things do not go according to plan.

A Canadian will try and sometimes fail but is mostly undaunted by the setback and will simply try, try again.

At the top there is a rendition of St. Edward's Crown, with the crest of a crowned gold lion standing on a twisted wreath of red and white silk and holding a maple leaf in its right paw underneath. The lion is standing on top of a helm, which is above the escutcheon, ribbon, motto and compartment. There is a supporter of either side of the escutcheon and ribbon; an English lion on the left and a Scottish unicorn on the right.
Above: Coat of arms of Canada

As pairings go, it is unsurprisingly that there are marriages between Canadians and Germans, for their differences compliment one another.

Coat of arms of Germany
Above: Coat of arms of Germany

This Canadian should be more disciplined, more calculating in his life planning.

My German wife should have more faith in the instinct and intuition that make Canadians resilient to change.

A projection of North America with Canada highlighted in green
Above: Canada (in green)

Germans have a history where doing what is expected of them has led them down dark alleys in their past.

Canadians, though not without blemishes or mistakes, continue to evolve into compassionate humanists that have earned the world’s respect through hard, but brave, experimentation, trial and error, challenge and success.

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Above: Germany (in dark green) and the European Union (light green)

Typically, marriage is an institution in which interpersonal relationships, usually sexual, are acknowledged or sanctioned.

Above: Newlyweds leaving for their honeymoon boarding a Trans-Canada Air Lines plane, Montreal, 1946

I do not wish to discuss my intimate relations in such an open forum as this, but it does seem to me that there is pressure upon couples that sexual congress should eventually lead to matrimony.

In fact, a theme that is shared in both national cultures is the question:

So, where is this relationship going?

There is the notion that sex must lead to marriage, but nowhere is there written the promise that marriage will lead to the continuation of the intimacy that led them to the altar.

In a way I think that it is this expectation of result, that a relationship must be going somewhere, that it must be controlled and driven rather than simply evolving on its own, that is the cause of much of the tension that exists between couples.

The marriage of Inanna and Dumuzid
Above: Ancient Sumerian depiction of the marriage of the goddess Inanna and the god Dumuzid

In some cultures, marriage is recommended or considered to be compulsory before pursuing any sexual activity.

As much as I can see some wisdom in this thinking, for sex carries with it not only risks of contagion or pregnancy, along with the argument that the intimate act may be more than simply an intermingling of bodies but as well could be an intertwining of minds and souls, but there may also be wisdom in finding out before the commitment of matrimony whether or not there is an intimate compatability between the partners.

How important intimacy is to each partner, how intimacy should be experienced, is a bone of contention for many couples.

There are couples wherein sex is the pivot point upon which its continuance is predetermined, where there are expectations of quantity and quality that must be met for the relationship to survive.

A situation where one spouse demands from the other an obligation to meet certain standards of intimacy or else.

But I think when sex becomes an obligation rather than a spontaneous desire then the spark that founded the relationship no longer generates the heat that it once did.

Above: Wedding of Louis XIV of France (1638 – 1715) and Maria Theresa of Spain (1638 – 1683), an arranged marriage

I cannot nor will not speak for any other person but myself.

I consider the sharing of intimacy an amazing gift that is bestowed upon me.

I consider it a privilege, not a right.

If intimacy is not occuring in the frequency or intensity one hopes this is not the sole fault or responsibility of one’s partner to meet the other’s expectations.

Happiness is not given.

It is shared.

If a relationship hinges solely upon intimacy then perhaps the foundations of that relationship are not as strong as they could be.

Sex may be the spark that lit the flames, but it takes more than sex to keep the home fires burning.

A marriage ceremony is called a wedding.

And this is what a wedding is:

Ceremony, pomp lending, bestowing, significance to the circumstances.

How much planning, how much expense, is put into this (in theory) a once-in-a-lifetime event!

How much attention is given to making every bride’s whim realized!

From the moment a couple decides to make their union a formal affair comes the implicit understanding that formality has standards, expectations, that must be met.

What once was casual, natural and spontaneous, is transformed into demand and obligation.

Game over.

Time to get serious.

Above: White wedding, Pennsylvania, USA

Individuals may marry for several reasons, including legal, social, libidinal, emotional, financial, spiritual and religious purposes.

Marriage allows certain rights, creates social settings, adds permissiveness to intimacy and legitimacy to offspring, offers tax advantages and economic security, and makes the moral happy that the union has taken ethics into consideration.

Above: Roman Catholic white wedding, the Philippines

Whom they marry may be influenced by gender, socially determined rules of incest, prescriptive marriage rules, parental choice and individual desire.

Above: Muslim wedding, Tunisia

Certainly I am all for genetic sensibility.

There is both a physical and psychological wrongness in intimacy within one’s family.

Above: Family chart showing relatives who, in Islamic Sharia law, would be considered mahrim (or maharem): unmarriageable kin with whom sexual intercourse would be considered incestuous

And, yes, there are definitely prohibitions of behaviour that marriage dictates, many of them hinging upon avoiding the legal, social, emotional, financial and moral complications that violations of these dictates may produce.

As well, though the relationship should really be only about the wishes and desires of the partners, there are many influences upon the couple to conform and confirm the expectations of others, usually family and friends.

The word “should” is frequently inserted into these discussions.

Above: Hindu wedding, India

In an ideal world, the opinions of the world regarding the relationship of the couple should not matter to the couple.

Alas, this is not so.

Too often the opinions of others matter too much, sometimes to the point of mattering more than the stability of the marriage.

How often I have heard of partners not respecting one another’s opinion until confirmed by others outside the relationship!

Above: Wedding party, Lillienhoff Palace, Stockholm, Sweden

I have no parental role models to whom I have been able to seek counsel or comfort, so it has been difficult for me to fully comprehend those who do depend upon their families in steering the course of the relationship.

I assume that a family ultimately supports their members and seeks only their happiness.

I have been informed that this is not always the case in some families.

Where I think marriage becomes questionable is the division between what is good for the separate individuals within the union and what is good for the union.

It is this last upon which this blogpost hinges.

Above: Khmer wedding, Cambodia

In some areas of the world arranged marriage, child marriage, polygamy and forced marriage are practiced.

In other areas such practices are outlawed to preserve women’s rights or children’s rights (both female and male) or as a result of international law.

Above: Kandyan wedding, Sri Lanka

I cannot tell another culture how they should behave, for I know not enough about other cultures for me to act as judge and jury over others.

When it comes to arranged or forced marriages, personally, I want to accept the blame for my marriage.

I am not looking for others to blame!

I am against any union that is not made by the two consenting adults within that relationship.

Above: traditional wedding, Jomala, Äland, Finland

As for what constitutes a child, I am referring to not only physical maturity but emotional maturity as well.

Frankly, there are a number of adults for whom emotional maturity remains elusive.

Depending upon whom one speaks to, even I in my 50s might be considered less mature than I should be!

Above: Shinto wedding, Meiji Shrine, Tokyo, Japan

As for polygamy and promiscuity, I confess to being too lazy for infidelity or being involved with more than one woman.

Honestly, I can barely cope with one woman at a time.

I cannot imagine the complexity of more than one.

Above: The Harem Fountain, Frederick Arthur Bridgeman

Marriage has historically restricted the rights of women, who are sometimes considered the property of the husband.

I must confess that I have never been a fan of “my” to describe someone’s connection with me, for “my” does indeed infer ownership.

My” wife does not belong to me, no matter how much I might wish her to be with me.

It has always been, remains, and shall always be a woman’s choice to remain with me or not, to do as she will or not, regardless of how I may feel.

She makes her own choices.

It is up to me to decide if I can live with those choices.

I do not have the right to dictate what those choices should be.

Above: Assyrian wedding, Mechelen, Belgium

Around the world, primarily in developed democracies, there has been a general trend towards ensuring equal rights for women within marriage (including abolishing coverture, liberalizing divorce laws, and reforming reproductive and sexual rights) and legally recognizing the marriages of interfaith, interracial, and same sex couples.

Above: Jewish wedding

I am all for equal rights for women, for a relationship should be based on mutual respect for one another.

Above: Criticism about the Azeri (Azerbajan) society tradition from domestic violence to the social and political participation of women in the community – Azerbaijani magazine criticising the practice of forced marriage, domestic violence, and the social and political participation of women in society. Forced marriage is the theme for the cartoon with the caption in Russian Svobodnaya lyubov – Free love. The image should be read from right to left as Arabic script was used to write Azeri at the time. 
On the right: If you do not want to go voluntarily, I will take you by force. 
On the left: The akhun – cleric says: “Lady, since you don’t say anything, it seems that you agree. By the order of God I marry you to this gentleman.”

How a woman chooses to cover or not cover herself must always be her choice.

I do believe a woman is too easily influenced by what she thinks others think she should appear, but how she wishes to appear must remain her choice.

Woman wearing a niqab with baby
Above: Woman in niqab, Aleppo, Syria

Above: Young woman in a bikini, Waikiki Beach, Hawaii, USA

(Sadly, this is not a two-way street.

Too many women believe their men are fashionably stunted idiots when it comes to dressing themselves and are quick to tell their menfolk what they should or shouldn’t wear.)

MU Fashion Police (@MUFashionPolice) | Twitter

In respect to divorce, there is no question that marriage is not only a romantic liaison, but as well it is a financial arrangement, and it is in the division of assets that divorce can truly become a messy affair.

If marriage were not intertwined with emotions then discussion of its dissolution would be something that could be done dispassionately.

But fear and anger are invariably part and parcel of a marriage’s demise.

We live in a world where too often the disparity between a man’s wealth and a woman’s wealth is greatly in his favour.

This was a situation I never sought.

I have never wanted the reason a woman remains by my side, or the reason I remain by hers, to be financial.

A couple should not remain together because the financial consequences of their separation are too frightening to contemplate.

I married a doctor.

She married a freelance contract teacher and would-be writer.

Inequality of income between us was inherently clear from the start.

I do not want to be financially dependent on her and the nature of my chosen profession has meant that I have had to be.

Finances were never the reason for my seeking her hand in marriage nor my reason for remaining.

I have felt only pride in her accomplishments and I have done my best to contribute to our union despite the disparity of our incomes.

I have never wanted her to remain with me out of fear that a divorce would demand from her to financially recompense me for that disparity.

Above: Parsi wedding, Iran

Certainly living with a woman lends to a man’s life a home of comfort and luxuries that he might not otherwise have desired without her influence.

But of all that I might label as my possessions the only thing I truly value has been my library.

Our separation has taught me not only what it is that I need to live, but as well that which I must learn to live without.

As I age certainly I enjoy creature comforts like any other social animal, but the problem with possessions is that we don’t only possess them, they also possess us.

There is a kind of liberty, an intangible sense of freedom, to having the extent of your wealth defined only by what you can physically carry.

It is a liberty I once knew in my travelling days.

It was an insecure life, an uncertain life, but never have I felt so free.

I seek nothing from my wife except that which she voluntarily wishes to give me.

I have always sought a relationship of compassion, never compulsion.

Carefree Highway - Gordon Lightfoot.jpg

As for sexual and reproductive rights, I believe that a woman has a right over her own body and over whether she wishes to produce children or not.

Though our marriage was not blessed with children, I never felt that marriage must hinge upon them.

And intimacy is the icing on the cake, but it is not the cake itself.

As much as we desire exclusivity from and access to our significant partners’ form, ultimately we need to respect the other’s right to decide with whom or how often one wishes to be intimate.

Again, it all boils down to what one can live with and what one can live without.

Remaining with someone should always be a choice, never an obligation.

Above: Minangkabau wedding, Indonesia

As for matters of interfaith, interracial or diverse interpretations of sexual compatibility, I believe that in this crazy old violent world that we live in if two consenting adults can, against all odds, find love and companionship, then I have no right to tell them whether or not I think they should be together.

For example, I may not fully understand same sex couples, but they need neither my understanding nor my consent to live their lives as they so choose.

All that is needed is my respect and compassion for all human beings, regardless of whether their lives are similar to my own or not.

Above: Armenian wedding, Khor Virap, Armenia

Controversies continue regarding the legal status of married women, leniency towards violence within marriage, customs such as dowry and bride price, forced marriage, marrigeable age, and criminalization of premarital and extramarital sex.

Above: Catholic wedding, Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA

I cannot comment on legal status as I am untrained in legal matters, but I find myself thinking that what I wish for myself should be the same for others.

Above: Statue of Lady Justice –  a symbolic personification of the coercive power of a tribunal: a sword representing state authority, scales representing an objective standard and a blindfold indicating that justice should be impartial.

I cannot condone or justify violence of any kind towards anyone, whether this violence is physical or psychological.

Marriage does not give a person the right to injure their spouse.

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Above: A purple ribbon to promote awareness of Interpersonal Violence and Abuse Prevention

I cannor comprehend the notions of dowry and bride price, for they feel too much like the bride is a commodity to be traded.

Truth be told, a woman’s value is beyond measure, and to be loved by a woman is to be truly blessed.

A blessing does not carry a price tag.

Venus symbol
Above: Venus symbol, representing woman

As for the criminalization of premarital and extramarital sex, I feel that the government does not belong in the bedrooms of the nation, that the human body is not the province of legislation or compulsion, that the sharing of intimacy should remain a matter of personal choice and not a matter determined by obligation or fear of punishment.

No Place For The State In The Bedrooms Of The Nation - Pierre Trudeau  (1967) - YouTube

Marriage can be recognized by a state, an organization, a religious authority, a tribal group, a local community, or peers.

Above: 2004 California wedding between a Filipina bride and a Nigerian groom

I find this notion that something is not valid until it is recongized as such by others saddening.

I was married in a civil ceremony at the Freiburg im Breisgau City Hall.

The ceremony was conducted solely in German, a language I had not as yet learned.

As I stood there beside my bride, as the clerk spoke of our commitment to one another, I understood not a word of what was uttered.

An elbow in the ribs was a reminder of when it was appropriate to emit gutteral noises of consent.

The vows I took were words within my thoughts and meant with all my heart and soul.

They were unspoken then and remain unspoken now.

That is the burden and the price of being a man of my generation.

So much goes without saying.

Above: Freiburg im Breisgau Rathaus (City Hall), Baden.Württemberg, Germany

Marriage is often viewed as a contract.

And sadly it is.

A contract infers the idea of something legally binding.

Perhaps this is the origin of the word “wedlock“?

Above: An open-air wedding in Hong Kong of a British man and an Italian lady: the wedding was conducted by a Hong Kong-authorised lawyer.

A religious marriage is performed by a religious institution to recognize and create the rights and obligations intrinsic to matrimony in that religion.

Religious marriage is known variously as sacramental marriage in Catholicism, nikah in Islam, nissuin in Judaism, and various other names in other faith traditions, each with their own constraints as to what constitutes, and who can enter into, a valid religious marriage.

Above: Sundanese wedding inside a mosque, West Java, Indonesia

In a sense, the couple is seeking the counsel and consent of their faith granting validity to their union.

And herein lies the question of how important faith is in the lives of the couple.

There is much about religion for which I have the highest regard and the utmost respect.

But where others choose to follow a pilgrim’s progress I find that religion is constraining through its use of fear and compulsion.

I find that faith loses its free will when bound by the restraints of religion.

When a marriage is performed and carried out by a government institution in accordance with the marriage laws of the jurisdiction, without religious content, it is a civil marriage.

Civil marriage recognizes and creates the rights and obligations intrinsic to matrimony in the eyes of the state.

Above: Civil marriage by country: State recognizes civil marriages only (turqoise), State recognizes both civil and certain religious marriages (green),  State recognizes civil marriages (light blue),  State recognizes religious marriages only (red),  Civil marriages only for foreigners (pink),  Civil marriages only for non-Muslims (yellow)

How wonderful it is that the state allows a couple to marry, for now the opportunity to contribute to the state is assured.

Married people are such stable taxpayers and stable taxpayers keep a nation afloat.

Above: The civil wedding, 19th century Switzerland, Albert Anker

Some countries do not recognize locally performed religious marriage on its own and require a separate civil marriage for official purposes.

Above: A couple waiting to be married, Alghero, Sardinia, Italy

Without recognition, without sanction, just because we think and feel, do we actually exist as individuals, as a couple?

Black Suit White Shirt Mannequins Photos - Free & Royalty-Free Stock Photos  from Dreamstime

Conversely, civil marriage does not exist in some countries governed by a religious legal system, such as Saudi Arabia, where marriages contracted abroad might not be recognized if they were contracted contrary to Saudi interpretations of Islamic religious law.

Flag of Saudi Arabia
Above: Flag of Saudi Arabia

Ah, religious law!

A group of men who decided that they represent God and thus their will is not to be questioned.

Above: Verses from the Quran. The Quran is the official constitution of the country and a primary source of law. Saudi Arabia is unique in enshrining a religious text as a political document.

In countries governed by a mixed secular – religious legal system, such as Lebanon and Israel, locally performed civil marriage does not exist within the country, which prevents interfaith and various other marriages that contradict religious laws from being entered into in the country.

Flag of Lebanon
Above: Flag of Lebanon

However, civil marriages performed abroad may be recognized by the state even if they conflict with religious laws.

For example, in the case of recognition of marriage in Israel, this includes recognition of not only interfaith civil marriages performed abroad, but also overseas same-sex civil marriages.

Centered blue star within a horizontal triband
Above: Flag of Israel

I have on occasion been asked how I view same sex marriage.

I respond:

Why should straight people be the only fools?

Above: Street art by Niall O’Loughlin in Dublin encouraging people to vote yes in 2015’s Irish referendum

She pulls the walk from the Internet, for even here technology is insiduous, directing the free man to follow the calculating mind, the physical following the path of the artificial.

The map suggests a walk above the Lake of Constance (Bodensee) from west to east and back again, from Ermatigen to Gottlieben and return, 11 klicks, 11 kilometres.

Bodensee satellit.jpg
Above: Satellite image of the Lake of Constance (Bodensee)

A walk through shuttered streets and forest shadows and dappled sunlight above rippling waters.

We drive without commentary to the starting point at Ermatigen Station, for it is the pace of walking that sets the pace of talking.

White building with red tiled roof
Above: Ermatigen Station

This has been our way over the past few years.

We live together, we live apart.

She has her computer which she is invested in upon the sofa in the living room.

I have mine in a room we have dubbed my study by nature of the clutter with which I have filled it.

Separate Lives by Phil Collins and Marilyn Martin UK vinyl handwriting.png

She is a doctor and a damned good one at that.

She is needed, she is valued, her life makes a difference in the lives of others, and there have been so many children she has helped restore to health.

Logo

It is February 2021 and a year has passed since I have been any use of all.

I am a teacher by profession, by training, by qualifications, but these are not as valued by Switzerland as those of my wife.

Flag of Switzerland
Above: Flag of Switzerland

Nine months have passed since I abandoned the steady income of Starbucks.

Starbucks Corporation Logo 2011.svg
Above: Logo of Starbucks

Four months have passed since I have done any work at all.

Income from teaching is an embarrassing trickle.

Not for seven years have I worked fulltime as a teacher.

I am not a victim, but neither am I victorious in my career endeavours.

Above: Old houses of St. Gallen – Much of my working life in Switzerland has been in this town.

Her star rises above the clouds while mine has sunk into forgotten oblivion and obscurity.

I do not, will not blame her, for where I am is the result of decisions I have made and the consequences of those acts.

That and a little thing known as a pandemic.

The buck stops here: why leadership requires taking responsibility
Above: US President Harry S. Truman (1884 – 1972)

A job is waiting for me in Turkey and this may be our last walk together for a long time.

This is her chance to gauge the temperature of the relationship.

This is her chance to sway me from my course, if I can indeed be swayed.

The sun is bright and the winter air is a balmy 2°.

Ermatingen village
Above: the village of Ermatingen

I have a hamstring injury that refuses to heal, that defies description, with a pain that comes and goes.

I do not if what ails my body is physical or psychological, but I do that my pace is no longer the same as it once was and no longer matches her own.

Already in the gentle climb from Ermatigen street to hillside pathway my hamstring bothers me.

Above: Aerial view of Ermatingen

She is younger than I, less patient than I, less tolerant than I of the weakness of men.

Her desire to speak with me, to insert herself into my thoughts, to impress herself within my feelings, lies beneath the surface of her countenance like an itch she cannot scratch.

She marches on ahead of me, simultaneously enjoying her physical independence and cursing her emotional dependence upon me.

Wanderung Thurgauer Seerücken (Müllheim – Steckborn, Bodensee) |  WegWandern.ch

She marches on, ever present in my horizon and yet out of my reach.

I am holding her back as she is holding me.

Portfolio - Geriatrix 3D | Foundry Community
Above: Geriatrix and Myopia (Asterix comics)

I look around me as if today might the last day I will ever see what can be seen.

For who knows what tomorrow brings?

The best laid plans of mice and men and all that.

These are the days of contagion.

These are the days of uncertainty.

And soon I will leave.

There are aspects of Switzerland I will miss: the landscape geographical and historical and literary, some friends I have made through teaching and Starbucks, and, in spite of everything, the presence of a woman who has filled my days and has haunted my thoughts for 25 years.

But it is the Swiss themselves, their mentality, their soullessness, that I will not miss.

I am not saying that all who are Swiss are to be painted with the same jaundiced brush nor would I suggest that there are not some amongst them who are decent, warm and wonderful folks.

But living as I have here in the past decade, one begins to get a general impression of things and of how people are.

Switzerland may be where I have lived but it has never truly felt like home.

I have lived here, but I will be damned if I want to die here, ever struggling to find my dignity, ever denied the hope of conforming to a place that merely tolerates foreigners rather than welcoming them with warmth and compassion.

Matterhorn from Domhütte - 2.jpg
Above: The Matterhorn, Valais, Switzerland

These thoughts follow me as I lag behind, following in my wife’s footsteps.

I seek in the heritage of the towns we view some glimpse of memories worth preserving.

The police - every breath you take.jpg

Ermatingen is located on the southern shore of Lake Constance opposite the Island of Reichenau and consists of the districts Ermatingen and Triboltingen.

The lowest point of the municipality is the lake shore in the north and lies at approximately 396 metres above sea level, the highest point is on the lake ridge at the southern border of the municipality at 613 metres above sea level.

Above: Ermatingen

Ermatigen is a town that will not die, though not for lack of its foes trying.

Stone Age shoreline settlements were discovered in 1861 and studied extensively (1981 – 1983, with finds from the Pfyn, Horgen and Corded Ware cultures (4000 – 2500 BC.)

Above: Stone Age arrowhead

An Alamanni graveyard has also been found outside the early medieval village.

Above: Alemannic belt mountings, 7th century

There is nothing more conclusive than the bones of the dead to prove that there were lives of the living.

The village of Ermatingen is first mentioned in 724 as Erfmotingas.

(Which for all the world sounds to me like “Erf! Mounting gas!” and like mounting gas much of what was has vanished like a fart in a whirlwind.)

Ermatigen was part of the land owned by the Monastery of Reichenau, though why monks who have foresworn wealth and the company of chlidbearing women need property for is unclear to me.

The abbot was the landlord, judge and appointed the priest for the village.

Above: Monastery and cloisters of Reichenau Island

During the Council of Constance (1414 – 1418), one of the three counter-popes (or Antipopes), John XXIII, is said to have secretly fled Constance and came to Ermatingen.

Above: Council Hall, Konstanz

According to tradition, the Pope, as a thank you for the hospitality he received, allowed the Ermatinians to celebrate carnival again at this time.

The Ermatinger histories therefore attribute the Groppenfasnacht (known as the latest or last Carnival in the world) which takes place every three years on Sunday Laetare (Black Sunday) three weeks before Easter, to this Pope’s visit.

Above: Pope John XXIII (1370 – 1419)

Even after the conquest of Thurgau by the Swiss Confederation in 1460, the lower jurisdiction remained with the Abbot.

In the Swabian War of 1499 the village was destroyed by the Swabian army.

Above: Theatre of the Swabian War of 1499

Beyond the borders of Canton Thurgau (Switzerland) and the State of Baden-Württemberg (Germany), few have heard of and fewer have cared about a war that lasted only nine months.

But Thurgau has never forgotten nor forgiven Germany for this War.

Though Thurgau is heavily dependent upon trade with the German state on its northern flank, little excuse is needed to roundly curse the Germans time and time again in local newspaper editorials.

Flag of Thurgau
Above: Flag of Canton Thurgau

(The Swabian War of 1499 (Alemannic German (my wife’s dialect): Schwoobechrieg, Schwabenkrieg or Schweizerkrieg (“the Swiss War“) in Germany and Engadiner Krieg (“the War of the Engadin“) in Austria) was the last major armed conflict between the Old Swiss Confederacy and the House of Habsburg.

What had begun as a local conflict over the control of the Val Müstair and the Umbrail Pass in Graubünden soon got out of hand when both parties called upon their allies for help: the Habsburgs demanding the support of the Swabian League of Germany, and the Federation of the Three Leagues of Graubünden turning to the Swiss Eidgenossenschaft (Swiss Confederacy).

Santa Maria Val Muestair.JPG
Above: Santa Maria, Val Müstair, Graubünden, Switzerland

Umbrail.jpg
Above: Umbrail Pass, Val Müstair

Hostilities quickly spread from Graubünden through the Rhine valley to Lake Constance and even to the Sundgau in southern Alsace (France), and the westernmost part of Habsburg Austria.

Many battles were fought from January to July 1499, and in all but a few minor skirmishes, the experienced Swiss soldiers defeated the Swabian and Habsburg armies.

Battle of Hard.jpg
Above: The Battle of Hard (Austria) (Monday 20 February 1499), one of the battles of the Swabian War, as depicted in the Luzerner Schilling (1513)

After their victories in the Burgundian Wars (1474 – 1477), the Swiss had battle tested troops and commanders.

Flag of Swiss Confederacy
Above: Flag of the Old Swiss Confederacy (1300 – 1798)

On the Swabian side, distrust between the knights and their foot soldiers, disagreements amongst the military leadership, and a general reluctance to fight a war that even the Swabian Counts considered to be more in the interests of the powerful Habsburgs than in the interest of the Holy Roman Empire proved fatal handicaps.

When his military high commander fell in the Battle of Dornach, where the Swiss won a final decisive victory,

Above: The Battle of Dornach (Austria) (Saturday 22 July 1499) – The picture shows several phases of the battle: in the middle the main battle underneath the castle of Dorneck (on the left the cavalry of the Swabian League under the banner of the red Saint Andrew’s Cross, on the right the Swiss infantry under the banners of Bern, Thun, Zurich and Solothurn); underneath the slaughtering of the fleeing troups by the Swiss at the river Birs.

Emperor Maxmilian I had no choice but to agree to a peace treaty signed on 22 September 1499, in Basel.

Above: Albrecht Dürer portrait of Emperor Maxmilian I (1459 – 1519)

The treaty granted the Confederacy far-reaching independence from the Empire.

Although the Eidgenossenschaft officially remained a part of the Empire until the Treaty of Westphalia (that ended the Thirty Years War) in 1648, the Peace of Basel (Friday 22 September 1499) exempted the Swiss from imperial jurisdiction and taxes, thus de facto acknowledged it as a separate political entity.)

Above: The Milanese envoy presents his peace proposals to Maximilian’s delegation at the city hall of Basel.
A delegate from Lucerne (front left, in the blue-white dress) translates. (Luzerner Schilling).

By the 16th century, Ermatingen was on the way to becoming a town, with a high and low council, a court and various privileges.

In 1660 the town was granted market rights.

After the incorporation of the Abbey of Reichenau into the Diocese of Constance (Konstanz) in 1540, the lower court rights were held by the Bishop, until 1798.

Above: Ermatingen and Reichenau Island

The parish originally ran by the lake to the Seerücken Mountains, and, in the High Middle Ages, included Mannenbach and Triboltingen.

The church of Ermatingen was built in 1359 and was incorporated into the Abbey of Reichenau.

In 1528 it turned to the Protestant Reformation.

This meant that the Catholic Abbey (and after 1540 the Catholic Bishop of Constance) had the right to appoint the town priest in the mainly Reformed parish.

This situation remained until 1804, when the town acquired the right to appoint their own priest.

The town church became a shared church in 1546.

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Above: The Parity Church of St. Albin, Ermatingen

In 1756 the community acquired rights to most itself, except for the mills and water rights.

In 1763 the guild of master shoemakers opened in Ermatingen.

By the end of the 18th century, it possessed the internal customs and navigation rights.

In the 19th century, fishing, cereals grains, fruit, hemp and viticulture were the basis of the villagers economy.

After the defeat of Napoleon I, many French nobles settled at the Untersee (the Lower Lake of the Bodensee).

Above: Jacques-Louis David portrait of Napoleon I (1769 – 1821)

With the expansion of the Seestrasse (Lake Road) (1823), the steamship company on the Lake (since 1825) and the railway (1875), the town saw increased traffic.

In 1835, the Ermatinger Hartmann Friedrich Ammann founded the Cantonal Rifle Association together with Prince Louis Napoleon (Napoleon III) (in the Restaurant Hirschen (Stag).

Above: Alexandre Cabanel portrait of Napoleon III (1808 – 1873)

Ermatingen Hotel Hirschen: Ansichtskarten-Center Onlineshop
Above: Restaurant Hirschen, Ermatigen

After 1870, tourism became a major industry in Ermatingen.

At the end of the 19th century the mechanical embroidery and trans-shipping industries entered the town.

In 1848 a carpentry factory moved into the town, and in 1936 it became the Jacques Goldinger AG company.

In 1875 a tin can and aluminum products factory (Louis Sauter AG) opened in Ermatingen, followed by several other manufacturing companies.

Pack Aktuell | Gruppo ASA erwirbt italienisches Werk für  chemisch-technische Weissblechverpackungen von Crown

The Swiss National Railway station opened on 17 July 1875 on the Etzwilen–Konstanz/Kreuzlingen Hafen railway line, part of the sea line.

This connected Ermatingen to the national rail network. 

Logo
Above: Logo of Swiss National Railways

During the 20th century agriculture became increasingly less important.

The commercial fisheries have mostly vanished, though some fish breeding and the traditional “Gropp Carnival” remain in town.

Sallelujah Gugge Zürich

The UBS (United Bank of Switzerland) Training Center at Schloss Wolfsberg (Wolf Mountain Castle)(opened in 1975) and the Entrepreneurs’ Forum Lilienberg (since 1989) have turned Ermatingen into a nationally known training site (in 2000 almost two thirds of jobs were in the services sector).

Logo

Schloss Wolfsberg – Michael's Beers & Beans
Above: Schloss Wolfsberg (Wolf Mountain Castle)

Above: Villa Lilienberg

In summer, the village can also be reached by cruise ship (line Schaffhausen-Kreuzlingen of the Swiss ship company Untersee & Rhein.

Ermatingen and the surrounding area are supplied with radio programmes by Swisscom from the German Lake Constance Island of Reichenau via the Reichenau broadcasting station.

Logo

An important custom here is “gangfish shooting“.

This was first carried out in 1937 and is the largest winter shooting in Switzerland.

It attracts hundreds of gunmen to Ermatingen every December.

The gangfish, prepared according to a special recipe, is eaten at this time.

What a gangfish actually is, neither Wikipedia nor Google can tell me.

FACTSHEET VEREIN KULINARISCHES ERBE DER SCHWEIZ

In winter, Ermatinger fishermen lived from water bird hunting.

After constant denunciation of this hunt, nature and bird conservation associations launched a popular initiative to abolish it.

In the following voting campaign there was a lot of controversy about this hunt, which was called “Belchenschlacht” (the basin battle) by conservationists.

The initiative was adopted in 1984 as the first ever popular initiative in the canton of Thurgau with a majority of 1,000 votes.

Since the winter of 1984/1985, patent hunting (hunting season), the so-called “hunting of the little man“, has been prohibited.

Contrary to the promises made to conservationists, the waterbird reserve Ermatinger Becken was created for the purpose of the annual hunt.

Since then, thousands of ornithologists (bird watchers) have visited the Ermatiger Basin every winter.

File:Rostgänse im Ermatinger Becken.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

The eye spies a number of buildings of particular significance in Ermatigen.

The origins of the Joint Church of Ermatigen (also known as the Joint Church of St. Albin), date back to the 12th century.

In the Swabian War of 1499, it was burned.

In the course of the Reformation, the paintings and altars were removed from the church.

After the Second Kappel Peace (1531), the equal relationship between Catholics and Protestants was restored.

Since then it has been shared by the Roman Catholic and Protestant faiths.

Above: St. Albin Church, Ermatingen

The Adler (Eagle) is one of the oldest inns in the canton of Thurgau.

It was first mentioned in 1270.

Today’s stately bar building dates back to the 16th century.

It has also served as an audience for the Federal Landvogt (offices).

Above: Hotel Adler, Ermatingen

Famous guests among others have been: 

  • Prince Louis Napoleon (Napoleon III)

Above: Franz Xavier Winterhalter portrait of Napoleon III

  • French writer, politician and diplomat Francois René de Chateaubriand
Above: Francois René de Chateaubriand (1768 – 1848)

  • French writer Alexandre Dumas (the Elder)  

Above: Alexandre Dumas the Elder (1802 – 1870)

  • German writer Thomas Mann  

Above: Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

  • German inventor Graf (Count) Zeppelin  

Above: Ferdinand von Zeppelin (1838 – 1917)

  • German writer / poet / painter Hermann Hesse

Above: Hermann Hesse (1877 – 1962)

  • German author / biographer / founder of the Dada art movement Hugo Ball  

Above: Hugo Ball (1886 – 1927)

  • German writer Leonhard Frank

Above: Leonhard Frank (1882 – 1961)

  • French writer René Schickele  

Above: René Schickele (1883 – 1940)

  • German writer Ferdinand Hardekopf  

Above: John Höxter portrait of Ferdinand Hardekopf (1876 – 1954)

  • German writer Alfred Neumann

Künste im Exil - Personen - Alfred Neumann
Above: Alfred Neumann (1895 – 1952)

  • General Guisan

Above: General Henri Guisan

Far above the village, Wolf Walter von Gryffenberg built a cube-shaped castle building in 1571. 

Johann Friedrich Geldrich von Sigmarshofen, who bought it in 1595, received the lower jurisdiction for his estate and Wolfsberg became a free seat.

In 1731, Johannes Zollikofer bought it and rebuilt it as the form that Wolfsberg still shows today.

In 1795, St. Gallen banker Jean Jacques Hoegger (1747-1812) acquired the castle and had the Parquin House built southwest of the castle in 1797.

After Hoegger’s death, his daughter Juliane Wilhelmine (1776-1829), sold the estate in 1815 to Baron Ignaz von Wechingen from Feldkirch. 

In 1824, the castle came into the possession of the French Colonel Charles Parquin, who had Wolfsburg Castle rebuilt and set up a guesthouse here in 1839.

Other owners were the Englishman Joseph Martin Parry, who converted the estate into a model agricultural farm, and Karl Bürgi, who built a spa house in 1865, which remained until 1918.

Under the crime writer Wolf Schwertenbach, Wolfsberg was the meeting place of SS Brigadeführer Walter Schellenberg (1910-1952) and Oberstbrigadier Roger Masson.  

Grabenkämpfe, Spione und geheime Treffen im Zweiten Weltkrieg – und welche  Rolle der Wolfsberg ob Ermatingen spielte
Above: Paul Eduard Meyer (aka Wolf Schwertenbach) (1894 – 1966)

Above: Walter Schellenberg (1910 – 1952), German secret police

Colonel brigadier Roger Masson (1894-1967) | Revue Militaire Suisse
Above: Roger Masson (1894 – 1967), Swiss intelligence officer

In 1970, the castle was acquired by the Swiss bank UBS, which renovated it and expanded it into a training centre on the site with further buildings. 

On the west wall of the library building is an iron clockwork from the old castle, which was made around 1540 by Laurentius Liechti.

Above: Schloss Wolfsberg

I cannot decide what frightens me more about Ermatigen: the Nazis or the bankers.

Flag of Nazi Germany
Above: Flag of Nazi Germany (1935 – 1945)

Villa Lilienberg was built around 1840 by the Prussian Baroness Caroline von Waldau.

In 1848 she sold it to Baroness Betty von Fingerlin.

Her husband, Count Johann Baptist Zappi, was a friend of Napoleon III. 

The stately villa in the style of late Classicism went in 1897 to the Winterthur company Gebrüder Volkart, and in 1935 to the Reinhart family. 

Kulturgelder aus Britisch-Indien | WOZ Die Wochenzeitung

Werner Reinhart renovated the Villa and hosted Wilhelm Furtwängler and Othmar Schoek among others.

Werner Reinhart — Google Arts & Culture
Above: Swiss industrialist and patron of the arts Werner Reinhart (1884 – 1950)

Above: German composer/conductor Wilhelm Furtwängler (1886 – 1954)

Today I sing of Othmar Schoeck – Musica Kaleidoskopea
Above: Swiss composer / conductor Othmar Schoek (1886 – 1957)

The art patron Oskar Reinhart (1885 – 1965) (of Winterthur museum fame) also lived here.

Oskar Reinhart: 9783725309849: Amazon.com: Books

The site was acquired in 1985 by the Lilienberg Entrepreneurs Forum Foundation, and is now a meeting place for entrepreneurs.

Above: Lillienberg

The Villa am See (Villa by the Lake), in the style of a Appenzeller house, was built in 1798 by the Appenzell builder Grubenmann on the site of the former public bath house, which was demolished in 1782.

The house became known as the “Toblerhaus” and was owned by the entrepreneur Louis Sauter (Villa Sauter) since 1918. 

The German textile entrepreneur Uwe Holy acquired the building in 2005, making extensive renovations.

Louis Sauter - Vinorama Museum Ermatingen
Above: Louis Sauter

Uwe Holy | BILANZ
Above: Uwe Holy

Villa - Vinorama Museum Ermatingen
Above: Villa am See / Vinorama Museum, Ermatingen

Relling’s Castle, estimated to date back to the 12th century, burned down during the Swabian War, was rebuilt in 1501 and served as the free seat of Jechonias Rellingen von Feder from 1579.

The eastern part of the house stands as a square tower on high wall bases, it was extended in 1686 by the stairwell.

The western part of the house was later added as a trotte (wine press). 

Even today, the oak posts stand in the former trotte, which survived the fire of 1499.

Thanks to the adjustments of the owners for their needs, this building has been preserved and maintained.

It is probably the oldest surviving building in Ermatingen.

Above: Rellingsches Schlössli, Ermatingen

Famous folks who have lived in Ermatingen include:

  • Marie Espérance von Schwartz (1818 – 1899), a German-English writer who had her last residence here

Above: Marie Espérance von Schwartz

  • Ferenc Fricsay (1914 – 1963), Austrian conductor who lived here and is buried in the cemetery in Ermatingen

Above: Ferenc Fricsay

  • Oskar Naegeli (1885 – 1959), Swiss dermatologist and chess master, born in Ermatigen

Abb. 9 Unbekannt, Prof. Dr. Oskar Nägeli (1885-1959), Dermatologe und... |  Download Scientific Diagram
Above: Professor Dr. Oskar Naegeli

A remarkable thing about Switzerland is that it attracts and carefully conceals the rich and famous who to wish to live their lives out of the spotlight.

Among these hiding in plain sight in Switzerland are:

  • Phil Collins (Féchy)

Phil Collins 1 (cropped).jpg
Above: Phil Collins

  • Tina Turner (Küsnacht)

Tina Turner 50th Anniversary Tour.jpg
Above: Tina Turner

  • Shania Twain (Corseaux)

Shania Twain March 2020.png
Above: Shania Twain

  • ABBA’s Anni-Frid Synni Lyngstad (Zermatt)

Anni-Frid Lyngstad, May 2013.jpg
Above: Anni-Frid Lyngstad

That entertainers and sports people reside in Ermatigen is such a commonplace occurence in Switzerland as to be almost unremarkable.

Above: Hauptstrasse (Main Street), Ermatingen

Marie Espérance von Schwartz, née Brandt (born in Southgate, England, died in Ermatingen), also known as Marie Esperance Kalm de SchwartzMarie Speranza von Schwartz, and best known by her gritty name Elpis Melena was a writer of German origin and English nationality. 

Above: Marie Espérance von Schwartz

She was a friend of the Italian freedom fighter Giuseppe Garibaldi and the Hungarian composer Franz Liszt and became known mainly in the field of travel and memoir literature.

Born in England to a Hamburg banker, she was brought up mainly in Geneva.

After an early short marriage to a cousin, she settled in Rome.

With her second husband, the Hamburg banker Ferdinand von Schwartz (1813 – 1883), whom she had met in Italy, she made adventurous journeys through Greece, Turkey, Asia Minor, Egypt and North Africa, but this marriage ended in divorce in 1854.

In Rome, the wealthy and educated, especially linguistically talented (a cunning linguist?), (She is said to have mastered eight languages.) Marie led a literary salon where numerous artists and aristocrats frequented. 

She maintained a lively exchange of letters with Franz Liszt for many years.

In addition, she continued to indulge in her desire to travel.

Above: Franz Liszt (1811 – 1886)

Since 1849, Marie Esperance von Schwartz had been interested in Garibaldi.

In the autumn of 1857, she entered into personal relations with Garibaldi on the island of Caprera (off the coast of Sardinia).

File:Caprera casa di Giuseppe Garibaldi.jpg - Wikipedia

Above: Giuseppe Garibaldi House, Caprera

melena elpis - Used - AbeBooks

She lived with him, cared for his children, supported his cause financially and through her writings, and cared for him during his captivity and after his wounding.

She was generally regarded as his mistress.

Garibaldi is said to have asked several times for her hand in marriage.

Out of gratitude for her sacrificial friendship, Garibaldi gave her the manuscript of his memoirs, which she quickly translated into German and was able to publish in 1861 before her competitor Alexandre Dumas the Elder.

Above: Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807 – 1882)

At the end of 1865, Marie moved her residence to Crete, where, undeterred by the fighting raging on the Island during the Cretan uprising (21 August 1866 – 20 January 1869), she had a charming villa built in the vineyards in Chalepa near Chania. 

(Crete was part of the Ottoman Empire from 1646 to 1898.)

Above: Marie astride her horse Huney in Crete

Her sympathy, unsurprisingly, belonged to the insurgents.

At her request, Garibaldi sent a contingent of 500 men to Crete to support the uprising.

Arkadi Cretan flag.png
Above: Flag of the Cretan rebellion

She devoted a lot of time and money to charitable institutions, founded hospitals, asylums, schools, translated German textbooks into modern Greek and Cretan folk songs, legends and folklore into German. 

She gained a great deal of respect from both Christian and Muslim Cretans.

Above: Ethnic map of Crete, 1861 – (blue) Christians / (red) Muslims

She developed a lively commitment in the field of animal welfare, her influence extending throughout Europe.

In Chania she founded an animal hospital for horses and donkeys.

Countless street dogs were fed daily.

Above: Chania, Crete, Greece

In numerous brochures in many languages, she campaigned for animal welfare and campaigned against animal testing.

After 20 years in Crete, she settled in Ermatingen, where she died at the age of 80.

Tierschutz auf Kreta - Marie Espérance von Schwartz. | Radio Kreta

Ferenc Karl Fricsay (born in Budapest, died in Basel and buried in Ermatigen) was a conductor, who worked mainly in Hungary, Austria and Germany.

Ferenc Fricsay - Télécharger et écouter les albums.
Above: Ferenc Fricsay

He came from a musical family and was the son of the Hungarian military chapel master Richard Fricsay and Berta Lengyel.

His father gave him his first music lessons.

Fricsay joined the Budapest Academy of Music at the age of 6, the famous Franz Liszt Academy of Music, where at the time, among others, Béla Bartik (pianist), Zoltan Kodély (composer) and Ernst von Dohnsnyi (pianist) taught.

Above: Béla Bartók (1881 – 1945)

Above: Zoltán Kodály (1882 – 1967)

Above: Ernó Dohnányi (1877 – 1960)

He learned almost all the orchestral instruments and also studied composition.

At the age of 15, he jumped in for his father and made his conductor’s debut.

Above: Franz Liszt Academy of Music, Budapest, Hungary

In 1933, after a successful final examination at the Academy, he refused a job at the Budapest Opera (now the Hungarian State Opera House) and received his first permanent position as Kapellmeister of the military chapel in the university and garrison town of Szeged.

Hungarian State Opera House(PDXdj).jpg
Above: Hungarian State Opera House, Budapest

In 1934, he also became conductor of the local municipal Philharmonic Orchestra.

He married for the first time this year.

They had three children.

Above: Aerial view of Szegedin, Hungary

In 1939, he made his first guest appearance at the Budapest Opera.

The following year he conducted for the first time in the Szegedin Opera (“Rigoletto” by Verdi).

In 1942, a military court case was opened against Fricsay for wanting to engage Jewish artists.

In mid-March 1944, German troops occupied Hungary in Operation Margarethe.

In the summer of this year, he warned friends and acquaintances of impending arrests by the Gestapo and thus put he himself in danger of being arrested.

Because of this and also because of his Jewish origin (his mother was Jewish, he himself was Roman Catholic) he had to flee Szeged with his wife and three children and go into hiding in Budapest.

Above: German Bf 110s flying over Budapest, January 1944.

In January 1945 he was offered the post of First Kapellmeister at the Budapest State Opera.

He also shared the chief conducting of the Budapest Capital Orchestra, (today’s Hungarian National Philharmonic Orchestra) and conducted a concert with this orchestra at the end of January 1945.

He left military service as a captain.

The State Opera was reopened in March 1945, the same month Fricsay’s father died.

In April 1945, Fricsay conducted a performance of Verdi’s La traviata.

At the end of 1946 he accepted an invitation to the Vienna State Opera and then the offer to take over the assistance of Otto Klemperer at the Salzburg Festival. 

Fricsay gave a concert in the summer of 1947 with the Budapest Capital Orchestra in Vienna.

Above: Otto Klemperer (1885 – 1973)

In August 1947, his international breakthrough came when he took over the world premiere of Danton’s Death of Gottfried von Einem at the Salzburg Festival for Otto Klemperer, who had a brain tumour.

Szenenbild der Hamburger Produktion, 1948
Above: Danton’s Death, Hamburg production, 1948

The invitation was also made at the suggestion of Herbert von Karajan, who assured the composer of the talent of the young Hungarian, having attended the aforementioned Vienna concert of 1947.

Invitations from everywhere followed, including those for the Salzburg Festival in 1948 and 1949.

Above: Herbert von Karajan (1908 – 1989)

From 1947 he was guest conductor at the Staatsoper in Vienna, where he conducted repertory operas.

After his experiences there, Fricsay made it a principle to conduct only productions that he had rehearsed himself.

Architektur STOP Front 20150922 C MichaelPoehn.jpg
Above: Vienna State Opera

In the following years Fricsay placed particular emphasis on the ensemble idea, (i.e. the development of a work and its performance with a solid core of like-minded performers).

Ferenc Fricsay – Primephonic
Above: Ferenc Fricsay

(Think of a classical music version of the Traveling Wilburys.)

The Traveling Wilburys in May 1988 (top: Jeff Lynne, Tom Petty; bottom: Roy Orbison, Bob Dylan, George Harrison)
Above: The Traveling Wilburys in May 1988 (top: Jeff Lynne, Tom Petty; bottom: Roy Orbison, Bob Dylan, George Harrison)

These ensembles included Dietrich Fischer-Dieskau, Riza Streich, Maria Stader, Ernst Haefliger, Josef Greindl, and, until his accidental death in 1954, Peter Anders.

Above: Dietrich Fischer-Dieskau (1925 – 2012)

Above: Rita Streich as Olympia in the Opera Hoffmanns Erzählungen (Hoffmann’s Tales) (1946)

Above: Maria Stader (1911 – 1999)

Ernst Haefliger – Ernst Haefliger Singt Opernarien (1962, Vinyl) - Discogs
Above: Ernst Haefliger (1919 – 2007)

Josef Greindl | Discography | Discogs
Above: Josef Greindl (1912 – 1993)

Above: Peter Anders (1908 – 1954)

(Think of these performers as superstars of their time in classical music.)

Preferred instrumental soloists of Fricsay were Yehudi Menuhin, Géza Anda, Clara Haskil and Anne Fischer.

Above: Yehudi Menuhin (1916 – 1999)

Above: Géza Anda (1921 – 1976)

Above: Clara Haskil (1895 – 1960)

Above: Annie Fischer (1914 – 1995)

(All names that this country boy from St. Philippe d’Argenteuil has nary a notion about.)

He worked with these artists again and again until the end of his career as a conductor.

In 1948 he conducted the scenic premiere of Frank Martin’s Le vin herbé (Der Zaubertrank / The Magic Potion) at the Salzburg Festival and the performance of Carl Orff’s Antigonae in 1949.

Above: Frank Martin (1890 – 1974)

Above: Carl Orff

(Clearly, there is more in Heaven and on Earth than previously dreamed in my philosophy.)

There are more things in Heaven and Earth, Horatio, than are dreamt of in  your philosophy.” ― Will… | Hamlet quotes, William shakespeare quotes,  Shakespeare quotes

He received great international acclaim for both performances.

Already by 1948 he was invited to an opera and concert guest performance in Berlin.

Aussicht von der Siegessäule auf die Straße des 17. Juni Richtung Berliner Mitte (Oktober 2013)
Above: Berlin

He made his debut in November 1948 at the Städtische Oper Berlin (now the Deutsche Oper Berlin) with Verdi’s “Don Carlos“, in the same month with the Rundfunk Sinfonieorchester Berlin and in December 1948 with the Berliner Philharmoniker and the RIAS Symphony Orchestra (since 1993 Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin).

Deutsche Oper Berlin. Ansicht von Südosten.jpg
Above: German Opera Berlin

Above: Rundfunk Sinfonieorchester Berlin

After these successes, Fricsay was appointed General Music Director of the Städtische Oper Berlin and chief conductor of the RIAS Symphony Orchestra.

Fricsay re-formed the orchestra and within a few years led it to international prestige.

By 1949, he brought almost 30 of the best musicians of the famous Staatsoper Unter den Linden to the RIAS Symphony Orchestra, which became famous in the following years for its brass section.

From then on, Fricsay played a central role in the reconstruction of musical life in post-war Germany, especially in Berlin.

Above: Staatsoper Unten den Linden, Berlin

At the end of December 1948 he signed an exclusive contract with the Deutsch Grammophon Gesellsschaft, for which he recorded his first long-playing record in September 1949 (5th Symphony by Tchaikovskywith the Berliner Philharmoniker).

This also heralded the beginning of a productive phase of recording.

Ferenc Fricsay - Ferenc Fricsay: Complete Recordings on Deutsche  Grammophon, Vol.1 - Orchestral Works - Amazon.com Music

In 1948, in place of the ill Otto Klemperer, he conducted the world premiere of Gottfried von Einem’s opera “Dantons Tod” at the Salzburg Festival in place of the ill Otto Klemperer. 

Above: Gottfried von Einem (1918 – 1996)

In 1950 he conducted “Le nozze di Figaro” (Mozart) at the Edinburgh Festival and made his debut in Buenos Aires with the “Carmina Burana” (Orff).

He married his second wife Silvia, née Valeanu, (1913 – 2003), the divorced sister-in-law of the skier Horst Scheeser, who brought a son into the marriage.

In April 1951, he conducted the Italian premiere of “Duke Blaubart’s Castle” at the Teatro San Carlo in Naples. 

Above: Teatro San Carlo, Napoli, Italy

In November 1951 he gave his first concert with the Bavarian Radio Symphony Orchestra (Munich / München) and in the spring of 1952 with the Concertgebouw Orchestra in Amsterdam.

Above: The Bavarian Radio Symphony Orchestra

Logo des Concertgebouw-Orchesters

In May 1952, probably because of the strain of the double obligation, he asked for the resolution of his contract with the Städtische Oper Berlin.

This year he took over his concerts at the Salzburg Festival for the ill Wilhelm Furtwängler.

Above: Wilhelm Furtwängler (1886 – 1954)

He was the director of the RIAS Symphony Orchestra until 1954.

In the following years, however, he remained closely connected to the Orchestra through numerous guest performance, touring and record commitments.

Above: Logo of the RIAS (Radiofunk im Amerikan Sektor)

In 1952 Fricsay and his family moved into Westerfeld Haus in Ermatigen as a permanent residence.

Above: Houses on the Oberen Seestrasse (Upper Lake Street), Ermatingen

Since that time he was a permanent guest at the Lucerne Music Festival Weeks.

Where there he took over the concerts of the ill Wilhelm Fürtwangler.

Above: Luzerner Kultur- und Kongresszentrum (KKL) (Lucerne Cultural and Convention Centre), Vierwaldstättersee (Lake of Lucerne), Luzern (Lucerne), Schweiz (Switzerland) – site of the Lucerne Music Festival

And also that same year he gave a guest concert with the Cologne (Köln) Radio Symphony Orchestra (now the WDR Sinfonie Orchester) and performed at the Salzburg Festival with the Vienna Philharmonic (Wiener Philharmoniker).

Above: Logo of the West Deutscher Rundfunk Sinfonie Orchester

Logo

In 1953 he began an extensive travel conductorship (in Paris, at the Scala in Milan, in Lucerne), which also took him to the US (Boston, Houston and San Francisco) in November of that year.

Due to the very successful concert in Houston, he was hired there for the next season (1954/55) as music director and principal conductor.

In June 1954 he made his Israel debut with the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra.

The work he performed there with great success was Verdi’s Requiem.

Requiem (Verdi) Titelblatt (1874).jpg

At the end of October 1954, Fricsay came to Houston to take over the Houston Symphony Orchestra, which ultimately failed.

The Orchestra did not keep to its promises, so he terminated the contract in January 1955.

Above: Houston Symphony Orchestra

After a second concert tour through Israel, Fricsay became General Music Director of the Bavarian State Opera (Munich) from 1956 to 1958.

However, resounding success did not come about, mainly due to the fact that he did not grant a more prominent position to the music of Richard Strauss and Richard Wagner, as is customary there.

Above: Richard Strauss (1864 – 1949)

Above: Richard Wagner (1813 – 1883)

In addition, Fricsay insisted on having an important say in production issues.

Instead of focusing on Wagner or Strauss, he pursued his main goal of rebuilding the Italian repertoire and setting new performances of “Otello” (Verdi), “Chowanschtschina” (Mussorgski), “Lucia di Lammermoor” (Donizetti), “Wozzeck” (Berg), “Le Roi David” (Honegger), “Un ballo in maschera” (Verdi), and “Oedipus Rex” (Stravinsky).

Above: Guiseppe Verdi (1813 – 1901)

Above: Modest Musorgskiy (1839 – 1881)

Above: Gaetano Donizetti (1797 – 1848)

Above: Alban Berg (1885 – 1935)

Above: Arthur Honegger (1892 – 1955)

Above: Igor Stravinsky (1882 – 1971)

In 1957 he recorded “Fidelio” (Beethoven) for the Deutsche Grammophon Gesellschaft in Munich, the first stereo recording of the German record industry.

In 1958 he conducted a charity concert for the reconstruction of the National Theatre in Munich.

Above: National Theatre, Munich

On this occasion, the first Eurovision live broadcast of a public concert from Germany took place.

In the same year he conducted the performance of “Le Nozze di Figaro” (Mozart) in June for the reopening of the Munich Cuvilliés (today: Altes Residenztheater).

He then converted his General Music Director’s contract into a guest performance contract.

Above: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756 – 1791)

Außenansicht des Theaters
Above: Residenztheater, Munich

In 1958, Fricsay began a series of recordings of all Beethoven’s symphonies, which remained unfinished due to his early death.

Above: Ludwig van Beethoven (1770 – 1829)

At the end of November 1958 Fricsay was diagnosed with a stomach ulcer, for which he underwent surgery in Zürich the same month, followed by a second operation in January.

The result was a recovery period of several months until September 1959.

Altstadt Zürich
Above: Zürich, Switzerland

From 1959 until his death, Fricsay was chief conductor of the RIAS Symphony Orchestra (now called the Deutsches Symphonie Orchester Berlin). 

Fricsay conducted the Orchestra in September 1959 in the first concert after his illness break and then in the reopening concert for the Great Broadcasting Hall of the broadcaster Sender Freies Berlin (SFB), the post-war start of German radio into stereophony.

Senderfreiesberlin-logo.svg

In 1960, Fricsay was granted Austrian citizenship after the failed Hungarian uprising of October 1956 permanently denied him access to his homeland.

Hole in flag - Budapest 1956.jpg
Above: Symbol of the revolution: Hungarian flag with the 1949–1956 Communist emblem cut out

In April he was again engaged as General Music Director in Berlin for the 1961/1962 season.

In the spring of 1961, the Radio Symphony Orchestra Berlin under Fricsay’s direction, together with Yehudi Menuhin as soloist, undertook a European tour through Germany, to Copenhagen, London and Paris. 

At the Salzburg Festival in 1961, Fricsay conducted Mozart’s “Idomeneo” three times at the Großer Festspielhaus Great Festival Hall) in Salzburg, which was intended as the beginning of a new Mozart cycle under his musical direction.

Above: Great Festival Hall, Salzburg, Austria

A few days after the construction of the Berlin Wall, he opened the newly built Deutsche Oper Berlin in Bismarckstraße on 24 September 1961 with a re-enduation of the “Don Giovanni” (Mozart).

This was also the first time that an opera has been broadcast live on television.

In October 1961, Fricsay was awarded the Grand Cross of Merit of the Federal Republic of Germany (West Germany) and made his last record recording with the Radio Symphony Orchestra in Berlin.

Berliner Mauer
Above: The Berlin Wall (1961 – 1989)

In November 1961 Fricsay gave his last concert with this orchestra in Bonn.

That month, his last concert recording was recorded.

Above: Beethoven Hall, site of the Bonn Orchestra

After several guest performances in London, Fricsay fell seriously ill again in December 1961, which led to further surgeries.

On 7 December 1961, Fricsay gave his last concert ever.

He cancelled all other commitments.

In the summer of 1962, the disease also seemed to have been overcome, but this turned out to be wrong.

This year he published a book he wrote, “About Mozart and Bartik“, in which he set out his basic views on classical music in general and on the music of the composers named in the title in particular.

Ferenc Fricsay, Dukas • Kodály • Shostakovich • Hindemith • J. Strauss •  Beethoven • Mozart – Great Conductors Of The 20th Century (2002, CD) -  Discogs

Fricsay died in Basel in February 1963 at the age of only 48 from the consequences of a gall bladder perforation, which was not detected in time.

He is buried in the cemetery in Ermatigen.

Das Vogelnestli des Stardirigenten

Fricsay was a rehearsal conductor and orchestral educator who tried extensively and often rigorously, which sometimes did not make the orchestral musicians’ dealings with him easy.

However, he produced positive results in technical play and led to undoubtedly outstanding artistic achievements.

He also benefited from the fact that he had mastered all orchestral instruments (except the harp), a knowledge he brought to the fore as part of his always intensive rehearsal work.

The television recording of the rehearsal for “Moldova” illustrates another special feature of Fricsay’s rehearsal work, namely that he described the musical events to the orchestra in a vivid, lively and pictorial manner, and, if necessary, also sang in passages to illustrate his musical ideas and to achieve the tonal result he wanted.

This underlines that his rehearsals were always based on a comprehensive concept of the respective work and he knew exactly what he wanted.

Ferenc Fricsay - A Life in Music - DG: 4743832 - download | Presto Classical

Fricsay preferred a clear, transparent orchestral sound that was taut, elastic and precise.

At the same time, he had an excellent sense of rhythm. 

Especially his recordings from a young age testify to great strength, energy and vitality.

However, this was also a subject of criticism, as some of his early performances were acknowledged to be too emotionally cold with a certain rigidity.

Too much external brilliance and mere effect were complained about, as well as too little relaxation and detachment. This was an accusation that was not made in later years.

Since the beginning of 1959, Fricsay has been increasingly plagued by severe illness, which was often associated with simply another new conducting gesture of Fricsay’s.

Thus his recordings from this time seem more “spiritual“, at least they are almost always slower than those from the time before the outbreak of the disease.

Although this is often seen as a direct consequence of the disease, this is probably also a process of maturity of the artist and the person Fricsay as a whole, which only now had a full effect.

Ferenc Karl Fricsay - Vinorama Museum Ermatingen
Above: Ferenc Fricsay

His repertoire was extensive, from Georg Friedrich Handel to Bernd Alois Zimmerman.

Above: Georg Friedrich Handel (1685 – 1759)

Work of the Week – Bernd Alois Zimmermann: Ich wandte mich und sah an alles  Unrecht, das geschah unter der Sonne (Ecclesiastical Action) - Schott Music  (EN)
Above: Bernd Alois Zimmermann (1918 – 1970)

Mozart’s work was particularly focused.

From the very beginning, he also put the music of Joseph Haydn and music of the 20th century, which had been rather neglected in the concert hall, on the program.

Above: Joseph Haydn (1732 – 1809)

Despite his early death, he managed to record interpretations of more than 200 classical works for posterity and bring the RIAS Symphony Orchestra to a standard comparable to that of the Berliner Philharmoniker.

From the abundance of his recordings, in addition to his Bartik, Kodoly and Mozart recordings, the Tchaikovsky symphonies and those of the Strauss waltzes are particularly highlighted.

His recordings of the three piano concertos by Béla Bartik with Géza Anda as soloist became well-known.

Fricsay is regarded as the “first media artist of European standing” (Ulrich Schreiber) and decisively promoted both broadcasting and record recording technology.

Unlike many other conductors, he was very interested in recording technology.

Fricsay carried out an uncompromising quality control of his recordings and released them only when the tonal reproduction fully corresponded to his ideas.

Otherwise, he insisted on re-recordings.

He advocated stereophony early on, both on records and on the radio.

Fricsay became known to a wider public mainly through a television documentary, which shows him in 1960 during the rehearsal of “Moldova” by Smetana with the Südfunk Symphony Orchestra.

This was also the first attempt on European television to bring classical music to a wide audience through a workshop experience.

Ferenc Fricsay | Hall of fame | Zeneakadémia

Above: Ferenc Fricsay

Fricsay’s work, however, did not have adequate repercussions.

In addition to the circumstance of his early death, this is probably mainly due to the fact that Deutsche Grammophon immediately elevated another conductor as the figurehead in the succession to Fricsay after his death, who was a “media professional” and knew best about the art of self-staging: Herbert von Karajan.

Fricsay’s person and his merits were eclipsed, his legacy forgotten, his grave unvisited.

In November 1974, the Ferenc Fricsay Society was founded and constituted on the occasion of the Berlin Festival in 1975.

It is dedicated to preserving the conductor’s memory and promotes the publication of his recordings.

L'art de Ferenc Fricsay. - La Boîte à Musique

Sadly, a man these days is judged only by his publicity.

The dead are dreadful at self-marketing.

And those who do not engage in self-marketing might as well be dead.

There is only one thing in the world worse than being talked about, and  that is

In the field of dermatology, the Naegeli syndrome is named after Oskar Naegeli.

Abb. 9 Unbekannt, Prof. Dr. Oskar Nägeli (1885-1959), Dermatologe und... |  Download Scientific Diagram
Above: Prof. Dr. Oskar Nägeli (1885 – 1959)

Naegeli syndrome is a rare and curious condition characterized by reticular skin pigmentation, diminished function of the sweat glands, a lack of teeth and the absence of fingerprint lines on the fingers.

A crime story just waiting in the wings to be written.

Above: Symptom of the Naegeli – Franceschetti – Jadassohn Syndrome

As we tramp the hills above Ermatigen and descend down to Triboltingen, Ute has slowed her pace impatiently waiting for me to accompany her.

Ever aware that a mere fortnight will soon separate us, the never-ending jukebox that resides within my mind finds itself playing lyrics from Kenny Rogers’ “Lucille” and Leonard Cohen’s “Famous Blue Raincoat“.

In a bar in Toledo, across from the depot,
On a barstool, she took off her ring.
I thought I’d get closer, so I walked on over.
I sat down and asked her name.
When the drinks finally hit her she said: “I’m no quitter
But I finally quit livin’ on dreams.
I’m hungry for laughter and here ever after
I’m after whatever the other life brings
.”


In the mirror, I saw him, and I closely watched him.
I thought how he looked out of place.
He came to the woman who sat there beside me.
He had a strange look on his face.
The big hands were calloused. He looked like a mountain.
For a minute I thought I was dead.
But he started shaking, his big heart was breaking.
He turned to the woman and said:

You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille.
With four hungry children and a crop in the field.
I’ve had some bad times, lived through some sad times,
But this time your hurting won’t heal.
You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
.”

After he left us, I ordered more whiskey
I thought how she’d made him look small
From the lights of the barroom
To a rented hotel room
We walked without talking at all.


She was a beauty, but when she came to me,
She must have thought I’d lost my mind.
I couldn’t hold her. ’cause the words that he told her
Kept coming back time after time.

You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille.
With four hungry children and a crop in the field.
I’ve had some bad times, lived through some sad times,
But this time your hurting won’t heal.
You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille.

Kenny Rogers - Lucille single.jpg

It’s four in the morning, the end of December,
I’m writing you now just to see if you’re better.
New York is cold, but I like where I’m living.
There’s music on Clinton Street all through the evening.

I hear that you’re building your little house deep in the desert
You’re living for nothing now, I hope you’re keeping some kind of record.

And Jane came by with a lock of your hair
She said that you gave it to her
That night that you planned to go clear
Did you ever go clear?

Ah, the last time we saw you you looked so much older
Your famous blue raincoat was torn at the shoulder
You’d been to the station to meet every train, and
You came home without Lili Marlene

And you treated my woman to a flake of your life
And when she came back she was nobody’s wife

Well, I see you there with the rose in your teeth
One more thin gypsy thief


Well, I see Jane’s awake
She sends her regards

And what can I tell you, my brother, my killer
What can I possibly say?
I guess that I miss you, I guess I forgive you,
I’m glad you stood in my way

If you ever come by here, for Jane or for me
Well, your enemy is sleeping, and his woman is free

And thanks for the trouble you took from her eyes
I thought it was there for good, so I never tried

And Jane came by with a lock of your hair
She said that you gave it to her
That night that you planned to go clear

Sincerely, L Cohen

Songs of love and hate.jpg

The wife always says she likes my voice and likes to listen to me sing.

But I don’t feel much like singing this day, despite the music in my mind.

These are tunes that do not soothe the mood, though they reflect my inner turmoil.

Our path, printed out from the walkers’ website, leads us through the streets of the village of Triboltingen, a place wherein I once taught a schoolteacher the English she needed to pass a Cambridge course required by her school board.

It was not then and nor was it now a welcoming warren.

I taught her in the heart of a cold winter and I have returned to this town in the chill of a heartless pandemic.

Though cars speed by upon the main street that is merely a midpoint of Highway 13, the village feels nonetheless empty and devoid of cheer or life.

I point out to my wife where the schoolteacher lived and the path I took from the whistlestop of Triboltingen to reach her house.

It is an unremarkable account listened to with unremarkable inattentiveness.

Above: Hauptstrasse (Main Street), Triboltingen

The Strassendorf (“road village“) is located at the foot of the Lake Ridge (the Seerücken hills) and at the Untersee between Tägerwilen and Ermatingen.

Above: Hauptstrasse (Main Street), Triboltingen

(A Strassendorf is a village form of settlement and a special kind of terraced village.

There are both regulated (planned by systematic colonization as in the province of Québec) and unregulated (naturally formed).

Road villages are widespread in Europe, especially in Central Europe.

The courtyards are usually laid out at regular intervals, usually with residential buildings and ancillary facilities, such as stables, barns, walls, fences, gardens, lying on the traffic route. 

Like a terraced village, the street village is characterized by the fact that, if the local conditions and terrain make it possible to settle even further at the beginning and at the end of the street village, then further farmland or residential plots can be created.

In more recent times, other roads, often running in parallel, are also being built if necessary.)

Above: An example of a Strassendorf – Champlain, Québec, Canada

Triboltingen is served by Highway 13, the main road between Schaffhausen and Kreuzlingen, and it has been, since 1998, a stop on the parallel sea line of the aforementioned Untersee & Rhein cruise ship route.

Above: Hauptstrasse (Main Street), Triboltingen

A discovered incendiary moat from the 1st century indicates an early Roman settlement.

The village itself was founded by the Alemanns. 

Together with Salenstein, Fruthwilen, Mannenbach and Ermatingen, Triboltingen formed a market cooperative selling the yield of surrounding forest and pastures.

Around 950, Duke Hermann of Swabia donated the village to the Monastery of Reichenau.

According to one chronicle, the Triboltinger fled in the famine of 1146 with his belongings to the nearby Monastery of Petershausen in Konstanz.

The village was first mentioned in the Middle Ages.

Above: Triboltingen and Reichenau Island

(It may have been a Tuesday, but I am unsure of the particulars.) 

Tuesday Afternoon.jpg

The Monastery of Reichenau was the village’s most important landlord and courtmaster.

From 1540 to 1798, the village was under the jurisdiction of the Prince Bishop of Konstanz. 

Wappen Bistum Konstanz.png
Above: Coat of arms of the Prince Bishop of Konstanz

Above: Konstanz Cathedral

East of Triboltingen, a bloody battle of the Swabian War took place on 11 April 1499 in the nearby hamlet of Schwaderloh.

Die Schlacht im Schwaderloh aus der Chronik des Johannes Stumpf
Above: The Battle of Schwaderloh from the Chronicle of Johannes Stumpf

(In the early hours of Tuesday 11 April 1499, between 6,000 and 7,000 Swabian landsmen marched out of Konstanz to attack the Swiss federal division positioned near Ermatingen.

However, a simultaneous attack with boats from the Island of Reichenau did not bring the desired surprise effect, so that the attacked could prepare themselves in time.

The Swiss Confederates threw themselves at the attackers, as they suspected only a minor attack, but had to retreat to the nearby forests because of the attackers’ greater supremacy.

The Swiss lost around 80 men and had to leave behind the two Luzern guns which were taken to Reichenau from Ermatingen.

Swabian troops occupied the villages of Ermatingen, Triboltingen and Mannenbach and began to plunder.

Apparently, the daily goal for the commanders had already been reached.

In the meantime, the federal contingent of Ermatingen merged with the forces that had joined forces at Schwaderloh.

It was decided, despite the inferiority of numbers, to attack the Swabian troops before they could bring their prizes to safety in Constance.

Together with another Thurgau contingent of about 400 men, who arrived from Scherzingen (part of the Municipality of Münsterlingen of which Landschlacht is a part), around 1,800 Swiss Confederates marched directly through the forest between Schwaderloh and Triboltingen into the plain at the Untersee.

When the Swabian troops made their way back from Konstanz, a lot of wine had already been drunk, the Confederates attack came as a surprise.

Above: On the left, the onslaught of the Confederates, in the middle, the battle, on the right, the flight of the slain. Chronicle of Diebold Schilling (1513)

Niklaus Schradin reports in his chronicle of the Swabian War (1500) that the Confederates advanced with great noise, whistles and drums from the forest down the slope to Triboltingen.

The Swabian troops were able to form a battle just in time under the protection of the cavalry around a few pieces of artillery.

According to contemporary information, the Swabian artillery fired at the advancing Confederates, but aimed too high.

The resulting cover of smoke then allowed the Confederates to approach the fog-lost Swabian battle formation unseen and to overrun it by force.

When the Swabian battle order disintegrated and the foot soldiers began to flee, the federal formation split up.

The Swiss fought the Swabian knights on horseback, while spearmen and swordsmen chased the fugitive footmen.

The bloody pursuit reached the walls of Gottlieben, the Tägermoos (a German district administered by the Swiss town of Tägerwilen), and the very walls of Konstanz itself. 

Many Swabians were forced into Lake Constance and had to leave all their armor and equipment on the shore to swim to safety or be rescued by boats in a pre-Dunkirk scenario.

Most of the 2,000 men that the Swabian side had to mourn as a loss drowned in the swamps of the Tägermoos or in the Lake of Constance.

Added to this was the cruel warfare of the Confederates.

According to the decision of the Daily Statute (the orders) of 11 March, no prisoners were allowed to be made in this war, a condition to which the troops had to swear to obey.

So, anyone who was left injured was put down.

The 130 dead from Konstanz were recovered after the Battle, the remaining 1,000 dead remained on the battlefield deprived of their equipment and clothes.

The spoils of the Confederates were considerable:

The entire artillery of the Swabian federal troops, numerous field weapons, and the loot of the raids in and around Ermatingen fell into their hands.

The federal victory caused a considerable weakening of the troops of the Swabian League in Konstanz and until July 1499 stopped any efforts to make any serious success in Thurgau.)

Above: After the battle, women and clergy gather the bodies of the citizens of Konstanz on the battlefield in front of the city – Diebold Schilling

Though the majority of the town is comprised of followers of the Swiss Reformed Church, Triboltingen itself has always belonged to the parish of Ermatingen.

In the 18th century Triboltingen owned a town hall, the “Zwingwald” and vineyards, among other municipal estates.

In the 19th century, vine growing was the basis of the village’s prosperity.

Around 1900, embroidery was also practised.

After 1950, the decommissioning of farms began.

Converted into residential buildings, they shape the townscape with the resulting single-family houses found here since the beginning of the 21st century.

The numerous half-timbered buildings date from the 17th century.

The village of Triboltingen is listed in the Inventory of the Places Worth Protecting in Switzerland.

Wappen von Triboltingen
Above: Coat of arms of Triboltingen

Triboltingen’s Joint Chapel of St. Nicholas and the residence Zur Post/Haus Schwarz (of the Post / Black House) are listed in the List of Cultural Objects of Ermatigen.

The Chapel of St. Nikolas was probably built in the 13th century.

From this time, the high-altitude arched windows are still preserved.

The choir was constructed around 1500.

One outstanding feature of the Chapel is the roof rider built in 1602 with an expansive pointed helmet.

Inside, remnants of medieval murals can be seen in three layers.

On the north wall of the nave are rubella drawings and pilgrim inscriptions from the late 15th century.

After the Reformation, the chapel was no longer used for services.

In the Second World War it was used as a powder magazine.

It was renovated in 1957.

Today, the Chapel hosts occasional divine services and is also used for small concerts.

Above: Church of St. Niklaus, Triboltingen

Curiously, Triboltigen does not boast about personalities it has harboured, for what secrets it conceals are covered by the shadows of Ermatingen.

Above: Zum Weinberg Inn, Triboltingen

The trail leads us across the railroad tracks close to the Triboltingen whistlestop and finds us crossing fields and moor around and away from the town of Tägerwilen.

Shelter on concrete platform

In Tägerwilen there were traces of a Neolithic settlement from around 4000 BC.

In the 7th century, the Alemanns settled in Tägerwilen on the village streams, near the Roman road Konstanz – Winterthur.

The first documentary mention dates back to 990 as Tegirwilare.

The history of Tägerwilen is strongly connected with that of neighbouring Konstanz.

Officials of the Bishop of Konstanz also founded Tägerwilen Castle and the Castle Castell, which was later built next to it.

In the early Middle Ages, Tägerwilen belonged to the Konstanz Bischofshöri (bishop’s horn) – (The Bischofshöri was an area between Konstanz and Berg as well as Münsterlingen and Gottlieben in Canton Thurgau, in which the peasants belonging to the Bishopric of Konstanz had to pay the Bishop and his clerics levies.) –  from about 1300.

During the Swabian War in 1499 and after the Battle of Schwaderloh, the village of Tägerwilen was burned down and Castell Castle destroyed.

Above: Schloss Castell (Castell Castle), Tägerwilen

In addition to agriculture and cattle breeding, vine and fruit growing were also practised, and the large civic forest was important.

In Tägerwilen there were nine mills, a poorhouse and a school.

After the opening of the Etzwilen – Konstanz railway line in 1875 and the Konstanz – Wil line in 1911, the village expanded towards the stations.

Towards the end of the 19th century, numerous commercial enterprises were established, including an automobile manufacturer.

In 2005, industry and commerce provided a quarter of the jobs in the municipality, while agriculture still represented 10%. 

Above: Tägerwilen Dorf Station

Tägerwilen, nay, the entire district of Kreuzlingen, has never been a place I could embrace.

It is a charmless place of charmless people, at least for those who only visit and never linger.

This is not a place that draws the traveller in.

It does not whisper to the heart:

Wander, explore, seek.

Instead it is a place where the locals look at the visitor with skepticism and disdain asking you the question that you yourself have already asked:

Why are you here?

Wappen von Tägerwilen (mit Tägermoos)

Above: Coat of arms of Tägerwilen

And yet the place has produced its own personalities:

  • Elise Egloff (1821-1848), literary model for writers Berthold Auerbach, Charlotte Birch-Pfeiffer, Gottfried Keller and George Bernard Shaw – Think of her as Eliza Doolittle of My Fair Lady.
  • Hermann Müller – Thurgau (1850-1927), a botanist who loved Canton Thurgau so much he adopted its name as his own

Above: Tägerwilen and Konstanz

Elise Egloff was born in Tägerwilen as an illegitimate daughter and grew up in the house of her grandfather, the butcher and community landlord Hans Jakob Egloff.

After his death in 1836 she did an apprenticeship as a seamstress and in 1841 came to Zürich as a child and sewing girl in the household of the German professor of chemistry Carl Löwig, to where the German anatomist Jacob Henle also travelled.

Above: Carl Jacob Loewig (1803 – 1890)

From their initially random encounters developed a deep love affair, about which Jacob Henle wrote:

…..and so the most ridiculous thing that can happen to a cavalier of the world in such a relationship happened to me: I was not only interested in her body, but also in the soul of the girl.” 

Above: Elise Egloff

When Henle received the call for a professorship in Heidelberg in the autumn of 1843, he wanted to finance Elise Egloff a small shop in Küsnacht (Canton Zürich). 

Above: Küsnacht, Canton Zürich

Her resulting desperation and love led Henle to the plan to bring Egloff to the point of being accepted in bourgeois society as his lover and as a bride.

Henle attached particular importance to his family’s judgment.

Above: Jakob Henle (1809 – 1885)

Initially, only his two brothers-in-law Carl Matthieu and Adolf Schöll were informed of Henle’s intentions.

In April 1844, Elise Egloff disappeared from Zurich without leaving any messages to family and acquaintances.

Jacob Henle put her in the care of his brother-in-law Carl Gustav August Mathieu, who in turn introduced her under a pseudonym to a girls’ boarding school for “higher daughters” in Traben (on the Moselle River), where Egloff went through the usual bourgeois educational program in the circle of significantly younger classmates: language education, religion, literature, mythology, declamation, piano playing, drawing and dance.

After targeted indiscretions by Adolf Schöll, who was driven by pity for Elise Egloff – who also collaborated the still secret story early on with Berthold Auerbach  – Jacob Henle inaugurated his sister Marie and instructed her a key role in the educational experiment:

From your hand I want to welcome her as my bride or never see her again.

Marie Mathieu immediately travelled to Traben to see Elise.

Her impression was unfavorable, so she tried to dampen her brother’s hopes for a successful outcome of the experiment.

On the intervention of Henle’s sister, the written contact between Jacob Henle and Elise Egloff was interrupted in August 1844, and a visit by the prominent scholar to Traben was ruled out. 

Traben-Trarbach, 2012-08 CN-01.jpg
Above: Traben-Trarbach

After a year of civic education in Traben without contact with Jacob Henle, Elise Egloff came to the house of the childless couple Mathieu in Trier in May 1845.

Here she was allowed to write letters to Henle again.

The upbringing in the house of Mathieu was marked by conflicts with Marie Mathieu, who was often overwhelmed and initially considered Egloff to be unsuitable.

Henle later wrote to Mathieu (in May 1846):

The mistake was less in the people than in the situations and I didn’t want to advise anyone to repeat the experiment.

A less tender sister and a less in love bride would not have done it.” 

At times it looked as if “the educational experiment has become a sustained character test and heart research that overwhelmed all participants.

Although Henle still thought in the autumn of 1845 that he could pull himself out of the affair without any major problems if the experiment failed, his tone in the letters to Egloff became more loving, and his reluctant sister asked for more objectivity in reporting on Elise.

Above: Porta Nigra, Trier

At the end of September 1845, Elise Egloff wrote to Jacob Henle:

Let me not live in uncertainty for years, but in everything I feel good and know it too well that you deserve a higher person who has more spirit and merit.

In October 1845, Elise Egloff and Jacob Henle met for the first time after a year and a half, and Henle informed his father.

Driven by another targeted indiscretion by Adolf Schöll, the engagement was publicly announced in December 1845, Henle wrote (partly ironically):

….and so I am now the groom of a girl from Thurgau, who I met in Zürich, parentless, poor but beautiful and good, named Elise Egloff, who has been living with my sister for a year, in order to acquire some German education, because the Swiss one was not enough for my high rank.” 

In February 1846 Jacob Henle wrote to Schöll:

I have a certainty that I will be loved with an insensitivity that I can hardly live by myself, and I have a rather extensive heart.

In Trier, I felt this happiness in full, which means to possess a being completely and to be everything to him.

That is why I look forward to the future with joyful confidence.

In March 1846 the wedding ceremony took place in Trier.

Above: Trier, 1900

Already on her honeymoon to Vienna the bride suffered from coughing fits and “blood cough” (tuberculosis).

The couple lived at the Henles school in Heidelberg.

Above: Heidelberg

In December 1846 their son Karl Henle was born, on 20 January 1848, the daughter Elise Henle.

Her mother died of pulmonary tuberculosis on 21 February 1848.

Already in time one wondered whether the “experimental arrangement of this educational experiment had an unfavorable influence on the course of the disease.

This is how the Henle biographer Friedrich Merkel reports:

Although Elise may have carried the germ around her for a long time, it is very possible, even probable, that the excitement and the tremendous spiritual work of the last two years had accelerated the ominous outbreak of suffering.” 

Jacob Henle himself made great accusations about the two-year apprenticeship he had expected his late wife to “ate social capacity“:

He was tortured by the remorse that he had not spared Elise the two-year detour, and that she had married immediately, and the idea tormented him that her body was weakened and no longer resilient to the treacherous disease by the longing she suffered in the Trier period with Marie Mathieu.” 

The physician Jacob Henle wrote to his siblings on the anniversary of her death:

Sooner than I would expect, I must say, Hope, death has redeemed my good poor Elise from her sufferings and spared her worse.

Today at 5 o’clock she died in my arms.

Now, in fact, I feel my abandonment not so much as the happiness of seeing the poor lover escape from some of the horrors of the disease that were still ahead of her.” 

After the death of Elise Egloff, there seemed to have been repeated discussions within the Henle family about the “educational experiment“.

Merkel wrote that Henle himself or his family often wondered whether his marriage to Elise would have been “satisfactory” permanently if she had not died at the birth of her second child.

The question is answered at least by the chronicler Merkel as such:

Although it is now very understandable to us that this question has arisen, it is, of course, a idle one.

After all, no one knows how she would have developed if she had lived longer.

It possessed three qualities which would have been able to continue to and continue to educate, promote and exalt them.

Above all, she fulfilled an unlimited love for her husband and she could never get enough evidence of how cordially she had approached him to please him, for her nothing was too much.

A second characteristic that adorned Mrs Elise was her extraordinary energy, and one can be sure that by the same one that had already lifted her so high, she would continue to fill the gaps that, of course, still attached to her education.

She felt very vividly that she was not yet fully at the height of her husband and once played out in her presence a little battle of words, which was conducted with all the weapons of spirit, wit and reading, then she became silent and was annoyed that she could not follow it.

She would no doubt have set all her ambition to get to the point where she could have given up the role of silent listener in any case.

A third characteristic, which she had to bring to her husband’s attention, was the ability to enjoy a cheerful life, which was so completely his own and which he had to appreciate to the utmost with his wife.”

Elise Egloff was buried on 23 February 1848 in the Bergfriedhof (mountain cemetery) in Heidelberg in the presence of witnesses Reinhard Blum and Ludwig Häusser, both professors and colleagues of Jacob Henle at the University of Heidelberg.

Henle himself was unable to attend his wife’s funeral due to illness.

The Kaufgräberbuch contains an entry of February 24, 1848 about the completion of the grave for “Henle, Anna, Frau Hofrat, Grabreihe E, Grab 21.”

In 1958, the tomb of Elise Henle was confiscated, according to the dissolution decision of 25 February 1958. 

Above: Bergfriedhof Haupteingang (main gate of Mountain Cemetery), Heidelberg

(It is customary after a time in Germany to “recycle” gravesites.

Only the truly famous are guaranteed a permanent resting place.)

Berthold Auerbach learned from Adolf Schöll the then still secret history of the relationship between Elise Egloff and Jacob Henle in 1845, and later he also met Elise Egloff personally.

Auerbach was inspired by this to create the story Die Frau Professorin (1846) as part of his Black Forest Village Stories in which Reinhard, a professor of the academy of art, and Lorle, a host daughter from a rural village, fall in love.

They get married and move to a residence town.

Here, however, it becomes apparent that the fresh natural child Lorle does not find her way around in the urban world and in the courtly educational bourgeoisie, is rude and simple.

Reinhard, who initially raved about the naturalness of village life and of his wife, is increasingly falling into the city life and the Residence Cabal and is tired of his wife “pre-spelling the ABC of education.

He withdraws from her inwardly and increasingly takes refuge in alcohol.

The attempt to strike a balance between the worlds of life fails, Lorle comes to this conclusion and returns to her village.

The Black Forest Village Stories are considered to be the authoritative foundation of the genre of village history.

Above: Berthold Auerbach (1812 – 1882)

Charlotte Birch-Pfeiffer worked on Auerbach’s village history in 1847 and turned The Woman Professor into a successful stage play entitled Village and Town. 

Auerbach sued (unsuccessfully) Birch-Pfeiffer for copyright infringement.

Despite, or precisely because of, the resulting sensation, the play contributed significantly to the popularity of this village history.

Auerbach had meanwhile moved to Heidelberg and was friendly with Jacob Henle, who stayed at the same time as Elise Henle (née Egloff) for the cure in Badenweiler (July 1847).

After Elise’s death, he became closer with Jacob Henle, because Auerbach had also lost his wife in his bed at about the same time. 

It was only through the success of the Village and Town that Henle learned of Auerbach’s story and felt deceived:

I was really outraged by the way he [Auerbach] used my tragic marriage almost only for jewellery and side work.

That is not to rise above human suffering, but to make a profit out of them.” 

In his pain, Henle had apparently not taken note of the fact that Auerbach had completed the story before Elise’s death.

Above: Charlotte Birch-Pfeiffer (1800 – 1868)

Thematically related to Auerbach’s story is The Lost Handwriting (1864) by Gustav Freytag, a friend of Auerbach’s:

A professor wins a farmer’s daughter as a partner, and the problem of the peasant girl transplanted into the city and in farm circles arises. 

Above: Gustav Freytag (1816 – 1895)

Ludwig Anzengruber tells a story in Der Sternsteinhof (1885), presumably consciously meant as a contrast to Auerbach and probably also to Die Frau Professorin: 

A poor girl decides that she will become the mistress of the rich Sternsteinhof.

She ruthlessly realizes her dream and then becomes an exemplary farmer.

The naturalistic, neither romantic nor sentimental depiction of a peasant character stands in contrast to Auerbach’s tendency (especially after 1848) to the transfigured village romanticism, in whose tradition the local novels still stand today as trivial literature.

Above: Ludwig Anzengruber (1839 – 1889)

Gottfried Keller’s Regine in the novella of the same name is regarded in literary research as a “poetic monument” of Elise Egloff.

Keller had met Henle and his wife in Zürich in 1846 and left a rather bizarre impression on the couple.

Two years later Keller visited Henle’s anthropological college in Heidelberg, which he described in Der Grüne Heinrich

(Keller on the lecture:

The first hour had such an effect on me that I forgot the purpose that brought me and everything and was alone curious about the coming experience.”)

Like other authors, Keller took a critical view of the Village Stories of Auerbach.

Above: Gottfried Keller (1819 – 1890)

In 1851, he began in Berlin with conceptions for a Galatea novella cycle, which turned against “this miserable Reinhard” and also referred generally polemically to Auerbach, who was accused in the later literary review of “natural swarming“, “clichéd trivial basic constellations” in the plot and a characteristic “shield against the problem contents of the time” (Fritz Martini).

Above all, Keller originally objected to the irreconcilability of culture and nature, or town and village, which was dealt with in The Woman Professor.

Keller, however, held back the story for 30 years, perhaps because he met Berthold Auerbach in 1856, made friends with him and was supported by Auerbach, who was even better known at the time.

It was not until 1880, at the urging of his publisher, that he began to work on the work, and the novella cycle Das Sinngedicht was created:

Keller contrasts the art professor Reinhard with the naturalist Reinhart, the “Mrs. Professor” Lorle with his art creations Lucie and Regine.

Above: Pygmalion creates Galatea

The frame narrative begins with the naturalist Reinhart deciding in his laboratory to ride into the vast country due to signs of fatigue and to test an epigram of Friedrich von Logaus  – The Poem of Meaning (Sinngedicht)– in reality:

How do you want to turn white lilies into red roses? / Kiss a white Galatea: she will laugh blushingly

The Pygmalion – Galatea complex is thus laid out as a basic theme, but is then dissolved in the 8th chapter (out of a total of 13) with Regine. 

Lucie engages her interlocutor Reinhart in a narrative contest about problems of partner choice and the understanding of roles of the sexes.

In the context of the competition, Reinhart reproduces, among other things, the story of Regine, which is much closer to the true events of Elise Egloff and Jacob Henle than Auerbach’s The Woman Professor:

The embassy attaché Erwin Altenauer, a wealthy and art-loving American of German origin, falls in love with the maid Regine.

Erwin successfully promotes the catching-up education of Regine when he is suddenly recalled to America.

However, he does not want to take Regine with him until she knows how to behave in all respects.

She is subjected to an educational program to overcome the boundaries of the status, and it leaves Regine in the society of three women who are enthusiastic about the art and culture scene, but of whom Keller paints a rather negative picture.

After Erwin’s return, the experiment fails in distrust and alienation, which, however, for the time being has nothing to do with the educational experiment itself, but above all – as Keller points out – are determined by fate:

Regine’s shame for her brother’s murder and Erwin’s suspicion that Regine is unfaithful to him, as well as the inability to talk about both, lead to tragedy.

In her perplexity, the “beautiful upstart” (Gunhild Kübler) takes her own life. 

Keller Gottfried, Regine“ – Bücher gebraucht, antiquarisch & neu kaufen

Kübler interprets as follows:

Behind Altenauer’s attempt to educate a woman according to her own conceptions of noble femininity, a mythical figure that shimmers in the ‘sense poem’ becomes visible:

Galatea, the statue created by the ancient sculptor Pygmalion and, at his request, animated by the love goddess – the woman who exists by man’s graces.

With Galatea-Regine’s death, the myth is torn, and in the refractions of the narrative duel between Reinhart and Lucie, he is said to be out of date.

As a pattern of a relationship between a man and a woman, he has become obsolete, because the role instructions corresponding to him are no longer playable for both sexes.

In its place are new, enlightening-egalitarian notions of eroticism and marital love, as they are unique in the literature of this time.”

Above: Pygmalion and Galatea

The comedy Pygmalion by George Bernard Shaw was premiered in German on 16 October 1913, and Shaw published the play anonymously in England in 1913.

Against Shaw’s express will, after his death, it underwent a reworking into the musical My Fair Lady.

My fair lady poster.jpg

Shaw himself gave no indication of a reference by Pygmalion to the historical event surrounding Elise Egloff or to the literary German-language translations.

A random analogy in content seems rather unlikely to some authors, however, given the many similarities,  the flower girl Eliza Doolittle takes on the role of the sewing girl Elise Egloff in this interpretation.

Shaw wrote in his foreword to Pygmalion that Professor Higgins’ character had a connection to the English linguist Henry Sweet.

Above: Henry Sweet (1845 – 1912)

Sweet specialized in Germanic languages and studied several times in Germany, in 1864 also at the University of Heidelberg, where the couple Henle had lived and where he might have experienced the well-known and literary mirrored love story of Elise Egloff and Jacob Henle.

Logo
Above: Logo of the University of Heidelberg

Perhaps Shaw came across the subject by reading Gottfried Keller’s poem or its review:

The London weekly Saturday Review, in which Shaw later worked (from 1895 to 1898), brought a longer review of the entire work in 1882, with Regine being highlighted as the most powerful narrative.

Another British weekly magazine, The Spectator, reviewed the poem in more detail a short time later, saying:

A new book from the pen of Gottfried Keller is an event not to be passed over.

He is, besides, the most genial, original novel-writer at present wielding the German language.

Both in the English press and in the circles of German studies, superlatives were used very early on, with Keller named as the greatest German-speaking author after Goethe.

Comparisons were initially drawn with Berthold Auerbach, who had already been well introduced in England and America, and the success of his Village Stories was largely due to the positive acceptance of the Keller novels.

Auerbach’s Die Frau Professorin appeared several times in English (first published in 1850).

Unlike Auerbach, interest in Keller did not dry up even after his death, even the term “Shakespeare of the Novelle“, coined by Paul Heyse on Keller, was adopted. 

Above: Paul Heyse (1830 – 1914)

It is not yet possible, but it is quite conceivable, that Shaw became aware of the material, especially since he spoke German well:

For the premiere in Vienna, Shaw translated the text of Pygmalion himself into German, but Siegfried Trebitsch then took over the translation of the printed book version.

Above: Siegfried Trebitsch (1868 – 1956)

In the comedy Pygmalion, the linguist Professor Henry Higgins notices the distinctive alley jargon of the flower girl Eliza Doolittle.

Convinced that the social position of an Englishman depends solely on his accent, he bets with his colleague Colonel Pickering that he can make Eliza appear in the best company as a fine lady, alone by freeing her from her Cockney accent and her poor manners.

But the comfort of Higgins’s bachelor household doesn’t long deceive Eliza about the humiliating fact that the self-deserving Higgins abuses her as a guinea pig without thinking about the consequences for Eliza.

The debut in society at a reception shows that Higgins has only addressed her accent and manners of a lady, shocking her vulgar phrases in the best pronunciation, and exhilarating those present, including Freddy Eynsford Hill, to the Eliza’s naturalness.

It is thanks not so much to the rude Professor Higgins, but to the gentleman Pickering – whose role resembles that of  Adolf Schöll in the historical event – that the experiment still succeeds:

It passes the decisive test, a message reception, brilliant.

Higgins basks in his triumph and is completely unable to understand Eliza’s despair.

Eliza realizes that she is now unfit for her previous life and that Higgins is also indifferent to her future.

She flees to Freddy, reckons with her “creator” Higgins in a big scene and demonstrates that it is not education but self-respect that makes up her personality.

Higgins sets out his selfish-self-serving attitude for the first time.

Shaw avoids a happy ending, however, so as not to (partially) undo the emancipation of his Galatea – much to the disappointment of theatergoers and readers who expected a final domestic idyll between Higgins and Eliza.

This request of the audience was only granted – against the express will of Shaw – with My Fair Lady.

Above: George Bernard Shaw (1856 – 1950)

There is much in Elise’s story with which I can relate, but beyond these stirrings there is nothing that compels us to drift from our programmed progress.

No compulsion is no deviation.

Tägerwilen, gegen Norden
Above: Tägerwilen from a distance

Meanwhile my mental jukebox has changed its tune from Cohen to the soundtrack of My Fair Lady.

I’m an ordinary man
Who desires nothing more than just an ordinary chance
To live exactly as he likes and do precisely what he wants
An average man am I, of no eccentric whim,
Who likes to live his life free of strife
Doing whatever he thinks is best for him
Well, just an ordinary man

But, let a woman in your life
And your serenity is through
She’ll redecorate your home, from the cellar to the dome
And then go on to the enthralling fun of overhauling you

Let a woman in your life
And you’re up against a wall
Make a plan and you will find she has something else in mind
And so rather than do either, you do something else that neither likes at all

You want to talk of Keats or Milton
She only wants to talk of love
You go to see a play or ballet
And spend it searching for her glove

Let a woman in your life
And you invite eternal strife
Let them buy their wedding bands
For those anxious little hands
I’d be equally as willing
For a dentist to be drilling
Than to ever let a woman in my life

I’m a very gentle man
Even-tempered and good-natured who you never hear complain
Who has the milk of human kindness by the quart in every vein
A patient man am I, down to my fingertips,
The sort who never would, never could
Let an insulting remark escape his lips
A very gentle man

But, let a woman in your life
And patience hasn’t got a chance
She will beg you for advice, your reply will be concise
And she’ll listen very nicely, and then go out and do precisely what she wants

You are a man of grace and polish
Who never spoke above a hush
Now all at once you’re using language
That would make a sailor blush

Let a woman in your life
And you’re plunging in a knife
Let the others of my sex tie the knot around their necks
I prefer a new edition of the Spanish Inquisition
Than to ever let a woman in my life

I’m a quiet living man
Who prefers to spend the evening in the silence of his room
Who likes an atmosphere as restful as an undiscovered tomb
A pensive man am I, of philosophical joys,
Who likes to meditate, contemplate,
Free from humanity’s mad inhuman noise
Just a quiet living man

But, let a woman in your life
And your sabbatical is through
In a line that never ends comes an army of her friends
Come to jabber and to chatter
And to tell her what the matter is with you!

She’ll have a booming boisterous family
Who will descend on you en masse
She’ll have a large Wagnarian mother
With a voice that shatters glass
Let a woman in your life
Let a woman in your life

I shall never let a woman in my life

I'm An Ordinary Man Paroles – MY FAIR LADY – GreatSong
Above: Rex Harrison, My Fair Lady

But the problem is that I already have.

Damn! Damn! Damn! Damn!
I’ve grown accustomed to her face
She almost makes the day begin
I’ve grown accustomed to the tune that
She whistles night and noon

Her smiles, her frowns
Her ups, her downs
Are second nature to me now
Like breathing out and breathing in

I was serenely independent and content before we met
Surely I could always be that way again
And yet
I’ve grown accustomed to her look
Accustomed to her voice
Accustomed to her face

But I’m so used to hear her say
Good morning” everyday
Her joys, her woes
Her highs, her lows

Are second nature to me now
Like breathing out and breathing in
I’m very grateful she’s a woman
And so easy to forget

Rather like a habit
One can always break
And yet
I’ve grown accustomed to the trace
Of something in the air
Accustomed to her face

My Fair Lady (1964) - I've Grown Accustomed to Her Face - YouTube
Above: Rex Harrison, My Fair Lady

The path leads us to the heart of Gottlieben, a town with a name that translates into English as “God’s love”.

Gottlieben was first mentioned as Agoiliubon at the end of the 10th century.

In 1251 Bishop Eberhard II of Waldburg built Castle Gottlieben, which served as a residence for the Bishops of Konstance, in Gottlieben.

The former water castle with two towers was built, together with a wooden bridge over the Rhine.

In doing so, the Bishop wanted to compete with the nearby city of Konstanz, with whose citizens he was at odds.

Above: Seal of Bishop Eberhard II (r. 1248 – 1274)

The two land-side corner towers of the middle 13th century, together with the palace added in 1346, the east wing from 1434 to 1446 and the north wing from 1475 to 1491, formed a mighty water castle, which was surrounded by a fortification.

In 1355, Gottlieben was attacked and burned down by Konrad von Homburg.

At the time of the Council of Konstanz in 1415, the reformer Jan Hus, Jerome of Prague and the deposed Pope John XXIII, who originally convened the Council and had invited Hus, were imprisoned together in the western tower of Castle Gottlieben. 

Above: Jan Hus (1370 – 1415)

Hieronymus prag a.jpg
Above: Jerome of Prague (1365—1416)

Above: John XXIII (1370 – 1419)

Above: Gottlieben Castle

After the Swabian War in 1499, the episcopal Obervogt (authorities) managed from Castle Gottlieben until 1798 the legal administration of the communnities of Gottlieben, Engwilen, Siegershausen and Tägerwilen.

In 1526, the Bishop left Gottlieben and built his residence in Meersburg. 

Above: Meersburg Castle

In the Thirty Years War (1618 – 1648), Swedish Field Marshal Gustaf Horn set up his headquarters in the fight against Konstanz in Gottlieben.

Above: Gustaf Horn (1592 – 1657)

On 24 February 1692, three houses sank into the Rhine during a storm.

In 1808, Gottlieben Castle came into private ownership.

After the death of his mother Hortense de Beauharnais, Prince Louis Napoleon (later Napoleon III) thought of an alternative residence to Arenenberg Castle and bought Gottlieben Castle, which he lived in only very briefly.

Above: Arenenberg

In 1837, the complex was redesigned in neo-Gothic style.

During the reconstruction, massive windows from the cloister of Konstanz Cathedral, which had burnt down in 1824, were used.

Above: Gottlieben Castle

Originally, Gottlieben was located in the parish of Tägerwilen.

During the Reformation in 1529, the whole congregation converted to the new faith.

From 1734 to 1735 the church was built and the reformed parish of Gottlieben was formed, which has been associated with Tägerwilen since 1912. 

Above: Gottlieben Reformed Church

In the 17th and 18th centuries, Gottlieben experienced an economic boom as a trading and transshipment point, especially salt, iron and wine, due to its favourable traffic situation on the Rhine.

In 1678 Gottlieben was granted market rights.

Although smaller industries settled in Gottlieben as early as the 19th century (button factory, horse-hair spinning mill), until after the middle of the 20th century, fishing, crafts and commerce formed the main acquisition of the population.

Above: Riegelhaus, Gottlieben

At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century there was an artist colony in Gottlieben, initiated by German writer Emanuel von Bodman (1874-1946) and German writer, painter and sculptor Heinrich Ernst Kromer (1866-1948).

Emanuel von Bodman - Liebesgedichte und Biographie
Above: Emanuel von Bodman

Portraits von und mit Heinrich Ernst Kromer | Biosphärengebiet Schwarzwald  Veranstaltungen
Above: Self portrait of Heinrich Ernst Kromer

There was a lively exchange with cultural figures of the turn of the century, such as: 

  • German poet Richard Dehmel

Above: Richard Dehmel (1863 – 1920)

  • Alsatian writer René Schickele 

Above: René Schickle (1883 – 1940)

  • German writer Wilhelm von Scholz 

Above: Wilhelm von Scholz (1874 – 1969)

  • Czech poet Rainer Maria Rilke

Above: Rainer Maria Rilke (1875 – 1926)

  • German writer / physician Ludwig Finckh  (1876 – 1964)

  • German philosopher / psychologist Ludwig Klages

Ludwig Klages - Wikipedia
Above: Ludwig Klages (1872 – 1956)

  • German writer Hermann Hesse
Above: Hermann Hesse (1877 – 1962)

 

  • German writer Thomas Mann 

Above: Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

In 1926, the German diplomat Wilhelm Muehlom, who emigrated to Switzerland in 1916, acquired Gottlieben Castle.

In the long run, however, Muehlon’s proximity to the border seemed too dangerous and he gave up this residence in September 1939 in favour of a domicile in Klosters in the Grisons Mountains of Graubünden.

Above: Klosters in winter

After 1945, tourism developed, so that today, besides two boatyards and the well-known Hüppen Bakery, gastronomy in Gottlieben is the most important employer.

Gottlieben is home to a bakery whose Göttlieber Hüppen (filled waffle rolls) are an internationally renowned pastry speciality.

In 1950, the Swiss opera singer Lisa della Casa and her husband Dragan Debeljevic acquired Gottlieben Castle.

Lisa Della Casa
Above: Lisa della Casa (1919 – 2012)

In 2000, a memorial and cultural site was opened with the Bodman House, the former residence of the poet Emanuel von Bodman.

Above: Bodman House (left) and the Old Schoolhouse (right), Gottlieben

Among the personalities that Gottlieben has known:

  • Robert Hallum (1360 -1417), Chancellor of the University of Oxford (1403-1405), Bishop of Salisbury (1407-1417)

Robert Hallum studied at the University of Oxford, served as the Archbishop of Canterbury from 1381 and was Chancellor of the University of Oxford from 1403 to 1405.

Logo
Above: Coat of arms of the University of Oxford

In 1406 he was appointed Archbishop of York, but King Henry IV did not accept it.

Above: King Henry IV of England (1366 – 1413)

In 1407 he was appointed Bishop of Salisbury by Pope Gregory XII.

Above: Pope Gregory XII (1335 – 1417)

On June 6, 1411, he was created a Cardinal by Pope John XXIII, but Hallum did not take the position.

Above: Coat of arms of Pope John XXIII

At the Council of Pisa in 1409 he represented the English Church.

Above: Leaning Tower and the Cathedral, Pisa, Italy

At the Council of Konstanz he was the chief ambassador of the English embassy.

Above: Council of Konstanz (1414 – 1418) in discussion with Konstanz Cathedral

For King Henry V he represented a course of church reform.

Above: King Henry V of England (1387 – 1422)

During the Council he died unexpectedly in Gottlieben and was buried at his request in Konstanz Cathedral, where a relief plaque in front of the steps to the high choir commemorates him.

Above: Grave slab of Robert Hallum in Konstanz Cathedral

  • Lisa della Casa (1919 – 2012), opera singer, owner of Gottlieben Castle

OPERA NEWS - Lisa Della Casa, 93, Nonpareil Interpreter of Mozart and  Strauss Heroines, Has Died
Above: Lisa della Casa

Lisa Della Casa was the second child of the ophthalmologist Dr. Francesco Roberto Della Casa (1879 – 1949) and his wife Magarete (1877-1948).

From the age of 15 she received singing lessons.

After studying singing in Bern and Zürich, she made her first appearance in 1941 as an opera singer in Solothurn – Biel in the role of Cio-Cio-San in Puccini’s “Madame Butterfly“.

Madama Butterfly, Illustration von Adolfo Hohenstein

From then, her career path was mapped out.

She made her debut at the Stadttheater Zürich (now Opernhaus Zürich) in 1943, where she was a member of the ensemble until 1950, and sang for the first time at the Salzburg Festival in 1947.

Above: Zürich Opera House

In the film Füsilier Wipf (1938), della Casa played the Vreneli (speaking role).

Fuesilier Wipf - DVD - online kaufen | Ex Libris

Della Casa starred in the 1940 film Mier lönd nöd lugg.

Lisa Della Casa (1919–2012) Opernsängerin, Theater-Schauspielerin. Dialekt Theateraufführung «Mier lönd nöd lugg» von Regisseur H.Haller. Von links nach rechts: Häddy Wettstein, Nelly Ruff, Hauptarstellerin Lisa Della Casa und Lilo Aufdermaur. (1940)
Above: Lisa Della Casa in the leading role of the theatrical performance Mier lönd nöd lugg (1940)

Della Casa was from 1947 a member of the Vienna State Opera, from 1953 to 1968 a member of the Metropolitan Opera in New York, as well as a permanent guest of the Bavarian State Opera in Munich and of the Salzburg Festival.

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Above: Vienna State Opera

Above: Metropolitan Opera, New York City

Above: Bavarian State Opera, Munich

In 1951 she performed at the Glyndebourne Festival.

Above: Glyndebourne Opera House, Sussex, England

A year later she made her debut in Bayreuth, but she felt the atmosphere there as stiff and pretentious. 

Above: Richard Wagner Festival House, Bayreuth, Germany

In 1952 she was appointed chamber singer.

In 1944 Lisa della Casa married Ernst Geiser from Langenthal and divorced him five years later.

At the end of 1949 she married the Serbian art historian, musicologist and publicist Dragan Debeljevic (1921-2014).

In 1950, she and her second husband, Dragan Debeljevic, acquired Gottlieben Castle, where she lived in complete seclusion until her death.

Above: Gottlieben Castle

Their daughter Vesna-Rajka was born in 1951.

Surprisingly, she retired from the stage in 1974.

The end of her career had to do with a personal stroke of fate – the serious illness of her daughter Vesna.

Dragan Debeljevic published her biography a year later under the title “A Life with Lisa Della Casa“.

Ein Leben mit Lisa Della Casa oder "In dem Schatten ihrer Locken"“ – Bücher  gebraucht, antiquarisch & neu kaufen

The parents of Lisa della Casa founded a well-known restaurant in Bern under the surname, which still exists today.

Restaurants - della-casas Webseite!
Above: Restaurant Della Casa, Bern

On 10 December 2012, Lisa Della Casa died in Münsterlingen on Lake Constance.

Lisa della Casa was one of the leading figures of the post-war period, especially in the Mozart and Richard Strauss discipline.

The beauty of her appearance, the aristocratic nobility of her appearance, the silver timbre, the almost incorporeal immaculateness of her vocal line and the credibility of her design, which combined elegance with intensity, made her exceptional.

Lisa Della Casa | Female singers, Opera singers, Sopranos
Above: Lisa della Casa

  • Udo Jürgens (1934 – 2014), Austrian composer, pianist and singer, had a second home in Gottlieben and died while walking on the lake promenade

Udo Jürgens (born Jürgen Udo Bockelmann) was a composer, pianist and singer of mainly German-language songs. 

In addition to Austrian citizenship, he also held Swiss citizenship from 2007 until his death.

With over 100 million records sold, Udo Jürgens was one of the most commercially successful entertainment musicians in the German-speaking world.

His career spanned nearly 60 years.

He is stylistically between hits, chanson, jazz and pop music.

He was the first Austrian to win the Eurovision Song Contest in 1966.

Above: Udo Jürgens

Udo Jürgens was born in Klagenfurt to German parents.

Jürgens grew up in his parents’ castle Ottmanach on the Magdalensberg (Magdalen Mountain) in Carinthia together with his two brothers John (1931 – 2006) and Manfred.

Above: Ottmanach Castle, Magdalensberg, Carinthia, Austria

He taught himself how to play the piano.

He received systematic instruction only later.

According to his biography The Man with the Bassoon, he received a violent slap from a Hitler Youth group leader which resulted in a reduction in his hearing ability on one ear. 

He left high school one year before graduation.

Later he studied music at the Carinthian State Conservatory (now the Gustav Mahler Private University of Music) in Klagenfurt and at the Mozarteum in Salzburg.

Above: Concert Hall, Gustav Mahler Private University of Music, Klagenfurt, Austria

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Above: Logo of the Mozarteum

From 1964 to 1989 Jürgens was married to former model Erika Meier, called Panja.

They had two children, John and Jenny.

In addition, Udo Jürgens had two daughters out of wedlock, Sonja Jürgens and Gloria Burda.

Udo und Panja Jürgens - Allgemeines - Die Udo Jürgens Fan-Site
Above: Jürgens, John, Jenny and Panja

In June 1977, Jürgens moved into a penthouse apartment at the Bellevue in Zürich.

Bellevue
Above: Bellevue Place, Zürich

Since at that time both Austria and Germany had tax debts, this move was interpreted in various media as tax evasion.

Jürgens, however, saw this debt covered by a “seven-figure amount” deposited in a Munich blocked account. 

On July 4, 1999 he married his long-term partner Corinna Reinhold (from Mönchengladbach – Rheydt) in New York.

Together they moved into a house in Zumikon, Switzerland, in 1997.

They divorced in 2006.

Udo Jürgens: Der Sänger war keiner seiner Frauen treu | GALA.de
Above: Corinna Reinhold and Udo Jürgens

In February 2007, Udo Jürgens obtained Swiss citizenship.

He was allowed to retain his Austrian citizenship, so that he was a dual citizen.

In July 2012, Jürgens acquired a villa in the municipality of Meilen, which Migros founder Gottlieb Duttweiler had built in 1930.

Above: Gottlieb Duttweiler

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The Gottlieb-Duttweiler-Villa was completely renovated between 2012 and 2016.

He lived in Gottlieben during the reconstruction period.

In 2015, he wanted to move into the villa in Meilen, but his death prevented this.

Kirche Meilen, Fähre
Above: Meilen

Udo Jürgens repeatedly referred to himself as an atheist in public. 

After the Swiss initiative “Against Mass Immigration” was decided by a narrow majority in February 2014, Jürgens was quoted in the German-language media after an interview with the Bild newspaper as saying:

That shocked me and deeply disappointed me.

Europe is the best idea this continent has had for a thousand years.

I was ashamed of the decision for Switzerland” and that he “no longer felt welcome in Switzerland”, which subsequently led to controversial reactions.

Logo der Bild-Zeitung

In another interview with Bluewin Entertainment, he put these statements into perspective as a misunderstanding, noting:

“I’m sorry for this statement, I honestly admit that.” 

On 21 December 2014, Udo Jürgens collapsed unconscious during a walk in Gottlieben and died of heart failure at the age of 80 despite an attempt to resuscitate him in the hospital in Münsterlingen.

Two weeks earlier, he had completed the first part of his 25th concert tour in Zürich, which was under the motto “Mitten im Leben“.

He made his last public appearance on 12 December 2014 at the Berlin Velodrome in the Helene Fischer Show.

Above: Helene Fischer

The performance was televised shortly after his death at Christmas.

According to his own wishes, his body was cremated.

The cremation was carried out on 23 December 2014, two days after his death.

On 15 January 2015, around 200 friends and companions bid farewell to Udo Jürgens at a memorial service in Zürich.

On 23 January, Jürgens’ urn was erected in the Volkshalle of the Vienna City Hall, where the public was able to pay their last respects to the musician.

Above: Vienna City Hall (Wiener Rathaus)

Officials such as Austrian President Heinz Fischer and Federal Chancellor Werner Faymann entered their names in the condolence books.

Above: Heinz Fischer

Above: Werner Faymann

He was buried on 9 May 2015 in an honorary grave of the city of Vienna (group 33 G, grave no. 85) in the Central Cemetery.

The tombstone represents a wing wrapped in a white mourning cloth.

One of the tombstone’s passages reads:

You are the sheet of music that was all for me. 

I’ll leave you everything.

I’ll leave you all there.” 

Above: Final resting place of Udo Jürgens

Udo Jürgens is considered one of the most important entertainers of the 20th and early 21st century.

He composed more than 1,000 songs, released more than 50 music albums and sold more than 105 million records during his more than sixty-year career. 

He is one of the most successful male solo artists in the world.

Since 2015, he has also held the world record as the longest successful artist in the charts with over 57 years, from his first entry in 1958 to 2015.

Jürgens holds the record as the most frequently represented German-speaking singer with 61 rankings in the album charts and has a total of 616 album placements and 411 single rankings by the end of 2014.

Above: Udo Jürgens

In his early years he was mostly seen as a pop singer, later he pushed his boundaries with his extensive compositional work.

His lyrics, which come from various lyricists and from himself, often addressed social themes, for example, decadence in his Café Größenwahn (1993).

Udo Jürgens – Café Grössenwahn (1993, CD) - Discogs

With An Honourable House (1975) he caricatured the bourgeois bigotry in relation to “wild marriage“, which was often still perceived as problematic at the time – the “marriage without a marriage certificate“.

Udo Jürgens - Ein ehrenwertes Haus - - YouTube

He also commented on the problem of guest workers (Greek Wine, 1974), on the environment (5 minutes before 12, 1982), on the arms race (Dream Dancer,1983) and on the drug problem (Red blooms the poppy, 1984).

ultratop.be - Udo Jürgens - Griechischer Wein

Udo Jürgens – 5 Minuten Vor 12 (1982, Vinyl) - Discogs

Udo Jürgens – Rot Blüht Der Mohn (1984, Vinyl) - Discogs

In the title Go and multiply from The Blue Album (1988), he created a connection between the Pope and a Biblical quotation.

The radio programmers of the Bayerischer Rundfunk therefore included the song on their non-play list.

Jurgens, Udo - Das Blaue Album - Amazon.com Music

Also on this album is the song Moscow – New York, in which Jürgens sings of the fall of the Berlin Wall a year earlier.

His wide-ranging work also includes symphonic compositions, such as Word and The Crown of Creation, which were recorded with the Berliner Philharmoniker.

On 2 December 2007 was the premiere of the Udo Jürgens musical Ich war noch niemals in New York at the Operettenhaus in Hamburg.

Since then, the musical has been performed in Vienna (from 2010), Stuttgart (from 2010), Tokyo (from 2011), Oberhausen and Zurich (from 2012) and in Berlin (from 2015).

In 1992 Jürgens played on the Donauinsel (Danube Island) in Vienna in front of 220,000 spectators.

A hallmark of his live concerts were the encores, which he always sang in a white bathrobe.

Udo Jürgens: Ich war noch niemals in New York

Gottlieben is home to two boatyards as well as hotel and restoration companies are located here.

The location of the municipality on the shipping line and the picturesque townscape, which is characterized by half-timbered houses, make the municipality a popular tourist destination, especially in the summer months.

Gottlieben is a stop of the shipping company Untersee & Rhein.

Hafen von Gottlieben | Mapio.net

It is the bakery’s café that makes us yearn for an end to the lockdown, for the café setting on the shore, their wonderful drinks and yummy desserts, and their impeccable service have also attracted us to Gottlieben.

The café is closed.

Above: The dessert, Lubin Baugin

We brought some snacks with us and a thermos of tea and so we sit on a bench near the cruise ship landing.

So much should be said, so much goes unsaid.

Gottlieben - Kleiner Ort, große Schätze

I long to tell her how I feel like a latter-day male Eliza Doolittle in trying to fit in a society that is unwelcoming and judgmental.

I long to tell how even when I was teaching fulltime that Switzerland never felt like home.

I long to tell her of the music running through my mind (usually 80s hits) and how like John Waite’s song “Missing You” in all its ironic denial of loss (playing at that moment) I really feel.

To make the song accurate only requires switching “I” with “you”

I spend my time
Thinking about you
And it’s almost driving me wild
And that’s my heart that’s breaking
Down this long distance line tonight

I ain’t missing you at all
Since you’ve been gone away
I ain’t missing you
No matter
What my friends say

There’s a message in the wire
And I’m sending you this signal tonight
You don’t know how desperate I’ve become
And it looks like I’m losing this fight

In your world I have no meaning
Though I’m trying hard to understand
And it’s my heart that’s breaking
Down this long distance line tonight

But I ain’t missing you at all
Since you’ve been gone away
I ain’t missing you
No matter what I might say

John Waite - Missing You.jpg

I need to go to Turkey.

I need to rediscover the joy of doing a job I love.

But doing what I love means a separation of months and possibly years.

I long for her happiness but I can no longer sacrifice my own desires for hers.

The song changes to Jim Croce’s “Lover’s Cross” as the descending sun encourages our walking back to Ermatingen before darkness claims the remains of the day.

I guess that it was bound to happen
Was just a matter of time
Now I’ve come to my decision
And it’s a one of the painful kind
‘Cause now it seems that you wanted a martyr
Just a regular guy wouldn’t do
But baby, I can’t hang upon no lover’s cross for you

I really gotta hand it to ya
‘Cause girl you really tried
But for every time that we spent laughin’
There were two times that I cried
And you were tryin’ to make me your martyr
And that’s the one thing I just couldn’t do
‘Cause baby, I can’t hang upon no lover’s cross for you

‘Cause tables are meant for turnin’
And people are bound to change
And bridges are meant for burnin’
When the people and memories
They join aren’t the same

Still I hope that you can find another
Who can take what I could not
He’ll have to be a super guy
Or maybe a super god
‘Cause I never was much of a martyr before
And I ain’t ’bout to start nothin’ new
And baby, I can’t hang upon no lover’s cross for you.

Jim Croce – Lover's Cross (1985, Vinyl) - Discogs

I don’t expect her to be a martyr for me nor I for her.

I cannot stop loving her, but I must start loving myself.

Love : Buscaglia, Leo F : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet  Archive

We say what does not matter.

What matters we do not say.

The path follows the railroad and in two weeks’ time this railroad will lead to the airport.

Bild: Bahnhof "Ermatingen" • Schienenverkehr-Schweiz.ch

I am not remotely religious but I identify with Moses in one respect:

A faltering tongue.

As a child I stuttered.

As a man I struggle to find the words to express myself in speech.

As a man in a discussion with a woman I am at a disadvantage.

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Above: Moses with the tablets of the Ten Commandments, Guido Reni

I want to tell her that just because I am leaving her behind doesn’t not mean that she is out of my life.

The difficulty is not in that I don’t care.

The difficulty is that I care too damn much.

Murray McLauchlan – Try Walking Away / Don't Put Your Faith In Men (1979,  Vinyl) - Discogs

The wind tosses the grasses barely covered by remnants of snow.

The Lake softly murmurs.

The only other sound is the crunching of pebbles beneath our feet.

The murmuring and crunching can barely conceal the racing beat of my heart.

Something else she cannot hear.

Damit die aussergewöhnliche Vogelwelt am Untersee nicht gestört wird: Hunde  gehören an die Leine zwischen Ermatingen und Gottlieben | St.Galler Tagblatt

Baby, I’ve been waiting,
I’ve been waiting night and day
I didn’t see the time,
I waited half my life away
There were lots of invitations
And I know you sent me some
But I was waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

I know you really loved me
But, you see, my hands were tied
And I know it must have hurt you,
It must have hurt your pride
To have to stand beneath my window
With your bugle and your drum
And me I’m up there waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

Ah I don’t believe you’d like it,
You wouldn’t like it here
There ain’t no entertainment
And the judgments are severe
The Maestro says it’s Mozart
But it sounds like bubble gum
When you’re waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

Waiting for the miracle
There’s nothing left to do
I haven’t been this happy
Since the end of World War II

Nothing left to do
When you know that you’ve been taken
Nothing left to do
When you’re begging for a crumb
Nothing left to do
When you’ve got to go on waiting
Waiting for the miracle to come

I dreamed about you, baby
It was just the other night
Most of you was naked
Ah but some of you was light
The sands of time were falling
From your fingers and your thumb
And you were waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

Ah baby, let’s get married
We’ve been alone too long
Let’s be alone together
Let’s see if we’re that strong
Yeah let’s do something crazy,
Something absolutely wrong
While we’re waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

Nothing left to do
When you know that you’ve been taken
Nothing left to do
When you’re begging for a crumb
Nothing left to do
When you’ve got to go on waiting
Waiting for the miracle to come

When you’ve fallen on the highway
And you’re lying in the rain,
And they ask you how you’re doing
Of course you’ll say you can’t complain
If you’re squeezed for information,
That’s when you’ve got to play it dumb
You just say you’re out there waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

LeonardCohenTheFuture.gif

THere are many things I should say and many things that I cannot say.

Of all that goes unsaid are the words:

Happy Valentine’s Day

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Hürriyet Daily News, 7 May 2021 / “Peru’s foreign minister resigns in scandal over early vaccination of official“, The Guardian, 15 February 2021 / “Myanmar junta warns public not to hide fugitive protestors“, Channel News Asia, 14 February 2021 / “Guinea declares Ebola epidemic after three deaths“, Al-Jazeera, 14 February 2021 / “DR Congo militia kills 11 civilians: army“, Manila Standard, 15 February 2021 / “Turkey says militants executed 13, including soldiers in Iraq“, Reuters, 14 February 2021 / Soundtrack, My Fair Lady / Lucille, Kenny Rogers / Famous Blue Raincoat, Leonard Cohen / Missing You, John Waite / Waiting for the Miracle, Leonard Cohen

Canada Slim and the Pretty City of Nirvana

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Tuesday 2 February 2021

I fear those big words, Stephen said, which make us so unhappy….

Image result for james joyce ulysses movie

Well, it’s Groundhog Day….

Again

Groundhog Day (movie poster).jpg

Groundhog Day is a popular North American tradition observed in the United States and Canada on 2 February.

It derives from the Pennsylvania Dutch superstitution that if a groundhog emerging from its burrow on this day sees its shadow due to clear weather, it will retreat to its den and winter will persist for six more weeks.

But if it does not see its shadow because of cloudiness, spring will arrive early.

While the tradition remains popular in modern times, studies have found no consistent correlation between a groundhog seeing its shadow and the subsequent arrival time of springlike weather.

The weather lore was brought from German-speaking areas where the badger (German: Dachs) is the forecasting animal.

This appears to be an enhanced version of the lore that clear weather on the Christian festival of Candlemas forebodes a prolonged winter.

The Groundhog Day ceremony held at Punxsutawney in western Pennsylvania, centering on a semi-mythical groundhog named Punxsutawney Phil, has become the most frequently attended ceremony. 

Grundsow Lodges in Pennsylvania Dutch Coutnry in the southeastern part of the state observe the occasion as well.

Other cities in the United States and Canada have also adopted the event.

Groundhogday2005.jpg

This is one time where television really fails to capture the true excitement of a large squirrel predicting the weather.

Once again, the eyes of the nation have turned here to this tiny village in western Pennsylvania.

There is no way this winter is ever going to end, as long as this groundhog keeps seeing his shadow.

I don’t see any other way out.

He’s got to be stopped.

And I have to stop him.

Image result for groundhog day movie

The Pennsylvania Dutch were immigrants from Germanic-speaking areas of Europe.

The Germans already had a tradition of marking Candlemas (2 February) as “Badger Day” (Dachstag), where if a badger emerging found it to be a sunny day thereby casting a shadow, it foreboded the prolonging of winter by four more weeks.

Image result for dachstag

I’ll give you a winter prediction:

It’s gonna be cold, it’s gonna be grey, and it’s gonna last you for the rest of your life.

What would you do if you were stuck in one place, and every day was exactly the same, and nothing that you did mattered?

History, Stephen said, is a nightmare from which I am trying to awake.

Image result for james joyce ulysses movie

Candlemas is a primarily Catholic festival but also known in the German Protestant (Lutheran) churches.

In folk religion, various traditions and superstitions continue to be linked with the holiday, although this was discouraged by the Protestant Reformers in the 16th century.

Notably, several traditions akin to weather lores use Candlemas’ weather to predict the start of spring.

The weather-predicting animal on Candlemas usually was the badger, although regionally the animal was the bear or the fox. 

The original weather-predicting animal in Germany had been the bear, another hibernating mammal, but when they grew scarce the lore became altered.

Similarity to the groundhog lore has been noted for the German formula “Sonnt sich der Dachs in der Lichtmeßwoche, so geht er auf vier Wochen wieder zu Loche” .

(If the badger sunbathes during Candlemas week, for four more weeks he will be back in his hole).

A slight variant is found in a collection of weather lore (Bauernregeln, lit. “farmers’ rules“) printed in Austria in 1823.

When Chekhov saw the long winter, he saw a winter bleak and dark and bereft of hope.

Chekhov seated at a desk

Above: Anton Chekhov (1860 – 1904)

Yet we know that winter is just another step in the cycle of life.

But standing here among the people of Punxsutawney and basking in the warmth of their hearths and hearts, I couldn’t imagine a better fate than a long and lustrous winter.

Image result for groundhog day movie

So the same tradition as the Germans, except that winter’s spell would be prolonged for six weeks instead of four, was maintained by the Pennsylvanians on Groundhog Day.

In Germany, the animal was dachs or badger.

For the Pennsylvania Dutch, it became the dox which in Deitsch referred to “groundhog“.

The standard term for “groundhog” was grun′daks (from German dachs), with the regional variant in York County being grundsau, a direct translation of the English name, according to a 19th-century book on the dialect.

The form was a regional variant according to one 19th century source. 

However, the weather superstition that begins “Der zwet Hær′ning is Grund′sau dåk. Wânn di grundau îr schâtte sent.” (“February second is Groundhog day. If the groundhog sees its shadow …)” is given as common to all 14 counties in Dutch Pennsylvania Country, in a 1915 monograph.

In The Thomas R. Brendle Collection of Pennsylvania German Folklore, Brendle preserved the following lore from the local Pennsylvania German dialect:

Wann der Dachas sei Schadde seht im Lichtmess Marye, dann geht er widder in’s Loch un beleibt noch sechs Woche drin.

Wann Ilchtmess Marye awwer drieb is, dann bleibt der dachs haus un’s watt noch enanner Friehyaahr.

(When the groundhog sees his shadow on the morning of February 2, he will again go into his hole and remain there for six weeks.

But if the morning of February 2 is overcast, the groundhog will remain outside and there will be another spring.)

The form grundsow has been used by the lodge in Allentown and elsewhere.

Allentown Billy Joel.jpg

Well, we’re living here in Allentown
And they’re closing all the factories down
Out in Bethlehem they’re killing time
Filling out forms
Standing in line


Well, our fathers fought the Second World War
Spent their weekends on the Jersey shore
Met our mothers in the USO
Asked them to dance
Danced with them slow
And we’re living here in Allentown


But the restlessness was handed down
And it’s getting very hard to stay


Well we’re waiting here in Allentown

For the Pennsylvania we never found
For the promises our teachers gave
If we worked hard
If we behaved

So the graduations hang on the wall
But they never really helped us at all
No they never taught us what was real
Iron and coke
And chromium steel


And we’re waiting here in Allentown

But they’ve taken all the coal from the ground
And the union people crawled away


Every child had a pretty good shot
To get at least as far as their old man got
But something happened on the way to that place
They threw an American flag in our face


Well I’m living here in Allentown
And it’s hard to keep a good man down
But I won’t be getting up today


And it’s getting very hard to stay
And we’re living here in Allentown

Official seal of Allentown, Pennsylvania

Brendle also recorded the name “Grundsaudag” (Groundhog Day in Lebanon County) and “Daxdaag” (Groundhog Day in Northampton County).

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Victor Hugo, in “Les Misérables” (1864) discusses the day as follows:

Hugo by Étienne Carjat, 1876

Above: Victor Hugo (1802 – 1885)

It was the second of February, that ancient Candlemas-day whose treacherous sun, the precursor of six weeks of cold, inspired Matthew Laensberg with the two lines, which have deservedly become classic:

Qu’il luise ou qu’il luiserne, l’ours rentre en sa caverne.

(Let it gleam or let it glimmer, the bear goes back into his cave.)

Image result for victor hugo les miserables

Captain Sir Tom Moore has died with corona virus.

The 100-year-old, who raised almost £33m for NHS charities by walking laps of his garden, was admitted to Bedford Hospital on Sunday.

The Queen led tributes to Captain Sir Tom, “recognising the inspiration he provided for the whole nation and others across the world”.

His daughters said they “shared laughter and tears” with their father in their final few hours together.

Announcing his death, Hannah Ingram-Moore and Lucy Teixeira said the last year of their father’s life had been “nothing short of remarkable”.

He tested positive for Covid-19 last week.

His family said due to other medication he was receiving for pneumonia, he was unable to be vaccinated.

Capt Sir Tom Moore

The Army veteran won the nation’s hearts by walking 100 laps of his garden in Marston Moretaine in Bedfordshire last year during the first lockdown, raising money for NHS Charities Together.

He was credited with lifting the nation’s spirits and his saying “Tomorrow will be a good day.” trended on social media.

Captain Tom Moore

He was knighted by the Queen in July in a special ceremony at Windsor Castle.

A Buckingham Palace spokeswoman said:

“Her Majesty very much enjoyed meeting Captain Sir Tom and his family at Windsor last year.

Her thoughts, and those of the royal family, are with them, recognising the inspiration he provided for the whole nation and others across the world.”

Image result for tom moore knighted by queen

In a statement, Prime Minister Boris Johnson said:

“Captain Sir Tom Moore was a hero in the truest sense of the word.

In the dark days of the Second World War he fought for freedom and in the face of this country’s deepest post-war crisis he united us all, he cheered us all up, and he embodied the triumph of the human spirit.

He became not just a national inspiration but a beacon of hope for the world. Our thoughts are with his daughter Hannah and all his family.”

The flag above 10 Downing Street has been flying at half-mast in tribute and Mr Johnson has spoken to Mrs Ingram-Moore to offer his condolences.

Downing Street

A tweet from the White House said:

“We join the United Kingdom and the world in honouring the memory of Captain Sir Tom Moore, who inspired millions through his life and his actions.”

Labour leader Sir Keir Starmer tweeted:

“This is incredibly sad news.

Captain Tom Moore put others first at a time of national crisis and was a beacon of hope for millions. Britain has lost a hero.”

Official portrait of Keir Starmer crop 2.jpg

The daughters’ statement said:

“It is with great sadness that we announce the death of our dear father.

We are so grateful that we were with him during the last hours of his life.

Hannah, Benjie and Georgia by his bedside and Lucy on FaceTime.

We spent hours chatting to him, reminiscing about our childhood and our wonderful mother. We shared laughter and tears together.

The last year of our father’s life was nothing short of remarkable. He was rejuvenated and experienced things he’d only ever dreamed of.

Whilst he’d been in so many hearts for just a short time, he was an incredible father and grandfather, and he will stay alive in our hearts forever.

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Captain Sir Tom’s daughters said the care he received from the NHS was “extraordinary”.

They said staff had been “unfalteringly professional, kind and compassionate and have given us many more years with him than we ever would have imagined“.

Large capital letters N H and S in white, and written in italics on a dark blue background.

Captain Sir Tom joined the Army at the beginning of World War Two, serving in India and Myanmar, then known as Burma.

He was originally from Keighley in West Yorkshire and among the local tributes being paid was Robbie Moore MP who said the town had “lost one of its finest today“.

Moore was made an honorary colonel of the Army Foundation College in Harrogate on his 100th birthday.

A mural of Capt Sir Tom in Southport

Captain Sir Tom had initially set out to raise £1,000 for NHS charities by walking 82ft (25m)-loops of his garden.

But he eventually raised £32,794,701 from more than 1.5 million supporters.

NHS Charities Together said that would rise to £39m when Gift Aid was taken into account.

Birthday cards

Ellie Orton, chief executive, said the funds raised by Captain Sir Tom had “reached the length and breadth of the UK through every one of our 241 member charities”.

She said he was “a one-off and he leaves the world a better place”.

Capt Sir Tom Moore tributes

Ruth May, chief nursing officer for NHS England, said Captain Sir Tom Moore “has been the model of all that has been good about our country’s response to Covid-19”.

She said in a statement “for me his biggest achievement and most important contribution to helping my fellow nurses, doctors and all those in the NHS responding to corona virus, has been how he brought the country together and gave us all a boost when we most needed it”.

Fellow charity fundraiser Dabirul Choudhury, who was 100 years old when he raised more than GBP 150,000 for corona virus relief by walking while fasting for Ramadan, paid tribute to Captain Sir Tom.

“If you want to help mankind you should keep yourself very fit, fit, fit,” he said.

Mr Choudrey’s son Atique said Captain Sir Tom had “left a massive legacy that will follow on through for generations”, adding “even now, my father hasn’t actually eaten since he’s heard about the news of Captain Sir Tom’s death“.

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Captain Sir Tom became the oldest person to have a UK #1 single when he recorded You’ll Never Walk Alone with Michael Ball last year.

The singer said on Twitter:

A wonderful life so well lived and a hero and fighter to the very end.

So very sad“.

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Having served in Myanmar, I wonder if Captain Tom was aware of events happening there as he lay dying….

As I Lay Dying (1930 1st ed jacket cover).jpg

The 2021 Myanmar coup d’état began on the morning of 1 February 2021 when democratically elected members of Myanmar’s ruling party, the National League for Democracy, were deposed by the Tatmadaw — Myanmar’s military—which vested power in a stratocracy (government headed by military chiefs).

Map of Myanmar

The Tatmadaw proclaimed a year-long state of emergency and declared power had been vested in Commander-in-Chief of Defence Services Min Aung Hlaing.

It declared the results of the November 2020 general election invalid and stated its intent to hold a new election at the end of the state of emergency.

The coup d’état occurred the day before the Parliament of Myanmar was due to swear in the members elected at the 2020 election, thereby preventing this from occurring.

President Win Myint and State Counsellor Aung San Suu Kyi were detained on 2 February, along with ministers and their deputies and members of Parliament.

Picture of Aung San Suu Kyi's face behind bars

China has blocked a UN Security Council statement condemning the military coup in Myanmar.

The military took power in the South East Asian nation on Monday after arresting political leader Aung San Suu Kyi and hundreds of other lawmakers.

The coup leaders have since formed a supreme council which will sit above the cabinet.

In Myanmar’s biggest city Yangon though, signs of resistance and civil disobedience have been growing.

Doctors and medical staff in dozens of hospitals across the country are stopping work in protest against the coup and to push for Ms Suu Kyi’s release.

Yangon General Hospital - medics wear red ribbons in protest, 3 February 2021

The United Nations Security Council met on Tuesday, but failed to agree on a joint statement after China did not support it.

China has the power of veto as one of five permanent members of the council.

Ahead of the talks, the UN’s Special Envoy on Myanmar, Christine Schraner, strongly condemned the military takeover which came after the army refused to accept the outcome of general elections held in November.

She said it was clear that “the recent outcome of the election was a landslide victory” for Ms Suu Kyi’s party.

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In further criticism, the Group of Seven major economic powers said it was “deeply concerned” and called for the return of democracy.

We call upon the military to immediately end the state of emergency, restore power to the democratically-elected government, to release all those unjustly detained and to respect human rights and the rule of law,” the statement released in London said.

The G7 comprises Canada, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, the UK and the US.

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China has been warning since the coup that sanctions or international pressure would only make things worse in Myanmar.

Beijing has long played a role of protecting the country from international scrutiny. It sees the country as economically important and is one of Myanmar’s closest allies.

Alongside Russia, it has repeatedly protected Myanmar from criticism at the UN over the military crackdown on the Muslim minority Rohingya population.

Beijing’s stance on the situation is consistent with its overall scepticism of international intervention,” Sebastian Strangio, author and South East Asia editor at The Diplomat, told the BBC.

While China does benefit strategically from Myanmar’s alienation from the west, this does not mean that Beijing is happy with the coup, he cautions.

They had a pretty good arrangement with the NLD and invested a lot to build a relationship with Aung San Suu Kyi.

The return of the military actually means that China now has to deal with the institution in Myanmar that historically is the most suspicious of China’s intentions.”

Flag of China

Through this foreign policy equivalent of gaslighting, China seems to be signalling its tacit support, if not emphatic endorsement, for the generals’ actions,” Myanmar expert Elliott Prasse-Freeman, of the National University of Singapore, told the BBC.

China seems to be proceeding as if this is Myanmar’s ‘internal issue’ in which what we are observing is a ‘cabinet reshuffle,’ as China’s state media put it.

While he thinks a UN statement would not have made an immediate difference, it would still serve as “a first step for cohering an international response.

That appears to not be forthcoming“.

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Above: Logo of the National University of Singapore

Aung San Suu Kyi, who led the now-ousted elected government, has not been seen since she was detained by the military on Monday morning.

Dozens of others also remain detained, including President Win Myint, members of her party’s central committee and her personal attorney.

They are reportedly being held under house arrest.

Her National League for Democracy (NLD) demanded her immediate release on Tuesday.

It has also called upon the military to accept the results of the November election, which saw the NLD win more than 80% of the votes.

Key players detained by military

Meanwhile, the United States said it had been unsuccessful in contacting the Myanmar military and has formally declared the takeover to be a coup d’etat.

This means the US cannot directly assist the government, though most of its assistance goes to non-governmental entities.

The EU, UK, Australia and others have also condemned the takeover.

Myanmar, also known as Burma, was ruled by the armed forces until 2011, when a nominally civilian government was sworn in.

Myanmar soldiers

Power has been handed over to commander-in-chief Min Aung Hlaing.

Eleven ministers and deputies, including those in finance, health, the interior and foreign affairs, were replaced.

In the first meeting of his cabinet on Tuesday, Min Aung Hlaing repeated that the takeover had been “inevitable“.

Senior General Min Aung Hlaing 2017 (cropped) 1.jpg

The country was calm in the aftermath of the coup, with troops patrolling all major cities and a night-time curfew in force.

Myanmar has a long history of military rule and many people can still remember the terror of previous coups.

But on Tuesday evening, car horns and the banging of cooking pots could be heard in the streets of Yangon in a sign of protest.

Activist groups have called for civil disobedience campaigns, setting up a Facebook group to organise their efforts.

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Staff at 70 hospitals and medical departments across the country have reportedly stepped away from all non-emergency work.

Hundreds of healthcare workers, including senior doctors, have participated in the “Red Ribbon movement“, with many donning a red ribbon on their clothes to show they were against the coup.

Online, many changed their social media profile pictures to one of just the colour red.

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Myanmar is a country of 54 million people in South East Asia which shares borders with Bangladesh, India, China, Thailand and Laos.

It was ruled by an oppressive military government from 1962 to 2011, leading to international condemnation and sanctions.

Aung San Suu Kyi spent years campaigning for democratic reforms.

A gradual liberalisation began in 2010, though the military still retained considerable influence.

A government led by Ms Suu Kyi came to power after free elections in 2015.

But a deadly military crackdown two years later on Rohingya Muslims sent hundreds of thousands fleeing to Bangladesh and triggered a rift between Ms Suu Kyi and the international community.

She has remained popular at home and her party won again by a landslide in the November 2020 election.

But the military have now stepped in to take control once more.

Flag of Myanmar

Above: Flag of Myanmar

The Myanmar military seems to be like a Burmese badger that once seen casts a dark shadow.

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The first reported news of a Groundhog Day observance was arguably made by the Punxsutawney Spirit newspaper of Punxsawtawney, in 1886: 

Up to the time of going to press, the beast has not seen its shadow“.

However, it was not until the following year in 1887 that the first Groundhog Day considered “official” was commemorated there, with a group making a trip to the Gobbler’s Knob part of town to consult the groundhog.

People have gathered annually at the spot for the event ever since.

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I was in the Virgin Islands once.

I met a girl.

We ate lobster, drank Piña Coladas.

At sunset we made love like sea otters. 

That was a pretty good day.

Why couldn’t I get that day over and over and over?

Image result for groundhog day film i was in the virgin islands

At first, Selkirk remained along the shoreline of Juan Fernández.

During this time he ate spiny lobsters and scanned the ocean daily for rescue, suffering all the while from loneliness, misery and remorse.

Hordes of raucous sea lions, gathered on the beach for the mating season, eventually drove him to the island’s interior.

Once inland, his way of life took a turn for the better.

More foods were available there: feral goats — introduced by earlier sailors — provided him with meat and milk, while wild turnips, the leaves of the indigenous cabbage tree and dried Schinus fruits (pink peppercorns) offered him variety and spice. 

Rats would attack him at night, but he was able to sleep soundly and in safety by domesticating and living near feral cats.

Shaded relief map of the Juan Fernández Islands with blue ocean he died on the island background

Selkirk proved resourceful in using materials that he found on the island:

He forged a new knife out of barrel hoops left on the beach, he built two huts out of pepper trees, one of which he used for cooking and the other for sleeping, and he employed his musket to hunt goats and his knife to clean their carcasses.

As his gunpowder dwindled, he had to chase prey on foot.

During one such chase he was badly injured when he tumbled from a cliff, lying helpless and unable to move for about a day.

His prey had cushioned his fall, probably sparing him a broken back.

Childhood lessons learned from his father, a tanner, now served him well.

For example, when his clothes wore out, he made new ones from hair-covered goatskins using a nail for sewing.

As his shoes became unusable, he had no need to replace them, since his toughened, calloused feet made protection unnecessary.

He sang psalms and read from the Bible, finding it a comfort in his situation and a prop for his English.

Bronze statue of Selkirk located in a stone alcove

During his sojourn on the island, two vessels came to anchor.

Unfortunately for Selkirk, both were Spanish.

As a Scotsman and a privateer, he would have faced a grim fate if captured and therefore did his best to hide himself.

Once, he was spotted and chased by a group of Spanish sailors from one of the ships.

His pursuers urinated beneath the tree in which he was hiding but failed to notice him.

The would-be captors then gave up and sailed away.

Engraving of Selkirk sitting in the doorway of a hut reading a Bible

Selkirk’s long-awaited deliverance came on 2 February 1709 by way of Duke, a privateering ship piloted by William Dampier, and its sailing companion Duchess

Thomas Dover led the landing party that met Selkirk.

After four years and four months without human company, Selkirk was almost incoherent with joy.

The Duke‘s captain and leader of the expedition was Woodes Rogers, who wryly referred to Selkirk as the governor of the island.

The agile castaway caught two or three goats a day and helped restore the health of Rogers’ men, who were suffering from scurvy.

Captain Rogers was impressed by Selkirk’s physical vigour, but also by the peace of mind that he had attained while living on the island, observing:

“One may see that solitude and retirement from the world is not such an insufferable state of life as most men imagine, especially when people are fairly called or thrown into it unavoidably, as this man was.

Selkirk, seated in a ship's boat, being taken aboard Duke.

Selkirk’s experience as a castaway aroused a great deal of attention in England.

Fellow crewmember Edward Cooke mentioned Selkirk’s ordeal in a book chronicling their privateering expedition, A Voyage to the South Sea and Round the World (1712).

Image result for a voyage to the south sea and round the world alexander selkirk

When Daniel Defoe published The Life and Surprising Adventures of Robinson Crusoe (1719), few readers could have missed the resemblance to Selkirk.

An illustration on the first page of the novel shows “a rather melancholy-looking man standing on the shore of an island, gazing inland“, in the words of modern explorer Tim Severin.

He is dressed in familiar goatskins, his feet and shins bare.

Yet Crusoe’s island is located not in the mid-latitudes of the South Pacific but 4,300 km (2,700 mi) away in the Caribbean, where furry attire would hardly be comfortable in tropical heat.

This incongruity supports the popular belief that Selkirk was a model for the fictional character, though most literary scholars now accept that his was “just one of many survival narratives that Defoe knew about“.

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To be exiled, abandoned, isolated for four years and four months, to have only one’s shadow as inconstant companion….

Clymer Freas (1867–1942) who was city editor at the Punxsutawney Spirit is credited as the “father” who conceived the idea of “Groundhog Day“.

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It has also been suggested that Punxsutawney was where all the Groundhog Day events originated, from where it spread to other parts of the United States and Canada.

The Groundhog Day celebrations of the 1880s were carried out by the Punxsutawney Elks Lodge.

The lodge members were the “genesis” of the Groundhog Club formed later, which continued the Groundhog Day tradition.

But the lodge started out being interested in the groundhog as a game animal for food.

It had started to serve groundhog at the lodge, and had been organizing a hunting party on a day each year in late summer.

The chronologies given are somewhat inconsistent in the literature.

The first “Groundhog Picnic” was held in 1887 according to one source, but given as post-circa-1889 by a local historian in a journal.

The historian states that around 1889 the meat was served in the lodge’s banquet, and the organized hunt started after that.

Either way, the Punxsutawney Groundhog Club was formed in 1899, and continued the hunt and “Groundhog Feast“, which took place annually in September.

The “hunt” portion of it became increasingly a ritualized formality, because the practical procurement of meat had to occur well ahead of time for marinating.

A drink called the “groundhog punch” was also served.

The flavor of groundhog meat has been described as a “cross between pork and chicken“.

The hunt and feast did not attract enough outside interest, and the practice discontinued.

The groundhog was not named Phil until 1961, possibly as an indirect reference to Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh.

photograph of Prince Philip in his ninety-fourth year

Above: Prince Philip

To paraphrase Elvis Presley:

You ain’t nothin’ but a groundhog
Cryin’ all the time
You ain’t nothin’ but a groundhog
Cryin’ all the time
Well, you ain’t never caught a shadow
And you ain’t no friend of mine

Well, they said you was high class
Well, that was just a lie
Yeah, they said you was high class
Well, that was just a lie
Yeah, you ain’t never caught a shadow
And you ain’t no friend of mine

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The River Thames frost fairs were held on the tideway of the River Thames in London, England in some winters, starting at least as early as the late 7th century until the early 19th century.

Most were held between the early 17th and early 19th centuries during the period known as the Little Ice Age, when the river froze over most frequently.

During that time the British winter was more severe than it is now, and the river was wider and slower, further impeded by the 19 piers of the medieval Old London Bridge which were removed in 1831.

Even at its peak, in the mid-17th century, the Thames in London froze less often than modern legend sometimes suggests, never exceeding about one year in ten except for four winters between 1649 and 1666.

From 1400 until the removal of the medieval London Bridge in 1835, there were 24 winters in which the Thames was recorded to have frozen over at London.

The Thames freezes over more often upstream, beyond the reach of the tide, especially above the weirs, of which Teddington Lock is the lowest.

The last great freeze of the higher Thames was in the winter of 1962 – 1963.

Frost fairs were a rare event even in the coldest parts of the Little Ice Age.

Some of the recorded frost fairs were in 695, 1608, 1683-4, 1716, 1739–40, 1789, and 1814.

Recreational cold weather winter events were far more common elsewhere in Europe, for example in the Netherlands.

These events in other countries as well as the winter festivals and carnivals around the world in present times can also be considered frost fairs.

However, very few of them have actually used that title.

(And, in these years of the Pandemic, few, if any, winter festivals or carnivals are being held.)

Illustration of a SARS-CoV-2 virion

During the Great Frost of 1683 – 1684, the most severe frost recorded in England, the Thames was completely frozen for two months, with the ice reaching a thickness of 11 inches (28 cm) in London.

Solid ice was reported extending for miles off the coasts of the southern North Sea (England, France and the Low Countries), causing severe problems for shipping and preventing the use of many harbours.

(I have no idea if Candlemas foretellings were a comfort or a curse in those days, but each frozen day must have felt long indeed.)

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In July 1900, Victoria’s second son Alfred (“Affie“) died.

Oh, God! My poor darling Affie gone too“, she wrote in her journal.

It is a horrible year, nothing but sadness and horrors of one kind and another.”

Photograph of Queen Victoria, 1882

Above: Queen Victoria (1819 – 1901)

(According to one of her biographers, Giles St Aubyn, Victoria wrote an average of 2,500 words a day during her adult life.

From July 1832 until just before her death, she kept a detailed journal, which eventually encompassed 122 volumes.

After Victoria’s death, her youngest daughter, Princess Beatrice, was appointed her literary executor.

Beatrice transcribed and edited the diaries covering Victoria’s accession onwards, and burned the originals in the process.

Despite this destruction, much of the diaries still exist.

Victoria was physically unprepossessing—she was stout, dowdy and only about five feet tall—but she succeeded in projecting a grand image.

She experienced unpopularity during the first years of her widowhood, but was well liked during the 1880s and 1890s, when she embodied the empire as a benevolent matriarchal figure.

Only after the release of her diary and letters did the extent of her political influence become known to the wider public.)

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Following a custom she maintained throughout her widowhood, Victoria spent the Christmas of 1900 at Osborne House on the Isle of Wight. 

Rheumatism in her legs had rendered her lame, and her eyesight was clouded by cataracts.

Through early January, she felt “weak and unwell“, and by mid-January she was “drowsy,dazed and confused“.

She died on Tuesday 22 January 1901, at half past six in the evening, at the age of 81.

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Above: Osborne House, Isle of Wight, England

Her son and successor, King Edward VII, and her eldest grandson, Emperor Wilhelm II, were at her deathbed.

portrait photograph of Edward VII

Above: Edward VII (1841 – 1910)

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Above: Wilhelm II (1859 – 1941)

Her favourite pet Pomeranian, Turi, was laid upon her deathbed as a last request.

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In 1897, Victoria had written instructions for her funeral, which was to be military as befitting a soldier’s daughter and the head of the army, and white instead of black.

On 25 January, Edward, Wilhelm and her third son, the Duke of Connaught, helped lift her body into the coffin. 

She was dressed in a white dress and her wedding veil.

An array of mementos commemorating her extended family, friends and servants were laid in the coffin with her, at her request, by her doctor and dressers.

One of Albert’s dressing gowns was placed by her side, with a plaster cast of his hand, while a lock of John Brown’s hair, along with a picture of him, was placed in her left hand concealed from the view of the family by a carefully positioned bunch of flowers.

Portrait photograph of Prince Albert aged 41

Above: Prince Albert (1819 – 1861)

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Above: John Brown (1826 – 1883)

Items of jewellery placed on Victoria included the wedding ring of John Brown’s mother, given to her by Brown in 1883. 

Her funeral was held on Saturday 2 February 1901, in St. George’s Chapel, Windsor Castle.

After two days of lying-in-state, she was interred beside Prince Albert in the Royal Mausoleum, Frogmore, at Windsor Great Park.

With a reign of 63 years, seven months and two days, Victoria was the longest reigning British monarch and the longest reigning queen regnant in world history until her great-great-granddaughter Elizabeth II surpassed her on 9 September 2015.

Ulysses is a modernist novel by Irish writer James Joyce (1882 – 1841), which he began in Trieste in 1914, the bulk of it written in Zürich (1915 – 1920), completed in Paris (1920).

Portrait of James Joyce

Above: James Joyce (1882 – 1941)

It was first serialized in parts in the American journal The Little Review from March 1918 to December 1920 and then published in its entirety in Paris on 2 February 1922, Joyce’s 40th birthday.

It is considered one of the most important works of modernist literature and has been called “a demonstration and summation of the entire movement.”

According to Declan Kiberd:

Before Joyce, no writer of fiction had so foregrounded the process of thinking“.

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Ulysses chronicles the appointments and encounters of the itinerant Leopold Bloom in Dublin in the course of an ordinary day, 16 June 1904.

Ulysses is the Latinised name of Odysseus, the hero of Homer’s epic poem the Odyssey, and the novel establishes a series of parallels between the poem and the novel, with structural correspondences between the characters and experiences of Bloom and Odysseus, Molly Bloom and Penelope, Stephen Dedalus and Telemachus, in addition to events and themes of the early 20th-century context of modernism, Dublin, and Ireland’s relationship to Britain.

The book explores various areas of Dublin life, dwelling on its squalor and monotony.

Nevertheless, the book is also an affectionately detailed study of the city.

Joyce claimed that if Dublin were to be destroyed in some catastrophe, it could be rebuilt, brick by brick, using his work as a model.

To achieve this level of accuracy, Joyce used the 1904 edition of Thom’s Directory —a work that listed the owners and/or tenants of every residential and commercial property in the city.

He also bombarded friends still living there with requests for information and clarification.

The book consists of 18 chapters, each covering roughly one hour of the day, beginning around about 8 am and ending sometime after 2 am the following morning.

Each of the 18 chapters of the novel employs its own literary style.

Each chapter also refers to a specific episode in Homer’s Odyssey and has a specific colour, art, or science and bodily organ associated with it.

This combination of kaleidoscopic writing with an extreme formal, schematic structure represents one of the book’s major contributions to the development of 20th-century modernist literature.

Other contributions include the use of classical mythology as a framework for his book and the near-obsessive focus on external detail in a book in which much of the significant action is happening inside the minds of the characters. 

The novel is highly allusive and also imitates the styles of different periods of English literature.

Since its publication, the book has attracted controversy and scrutiny.

The novel’s stream of consciousness technique, careful structuring, and experimental prose — replete with puns, parodies and allusions — as well as its rich characterisation and broad humour have led it to be regarded as one of the greatest literary works in history.

Joyce fans worldwide now celebrate 16 June as Bloomsday.

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(Truth be told, I find James Joyce neither a man easy to read nor easy to emulate.

One thing that makes him hard to follow is how he switches formats from part to part.

For example, part 11 (Sirens) is interspersed with techniques like onomatopeia, repetition, alliteration in imitation of a piece of music, part 12 (Cyclops) is a story with bizarre exaggerated interruptions. part 13 (Nausicaa) reads like a cheesy dimestore romance, part 14 (Oxen of the Sun) reproduces the evolution of English prose as its text, part 15 (Circe) is written in the form of a play, etc.

Despite Joyce’s protestation that “If Ulysses isn’t worth reading, then Life isn’t worth living.“, reading this terrible tome sorely tests those with ADD!)

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Then there is a story that seems very appropo to our times:

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In the winter of 1924–1925, Curtis Welch was the only doctor in Nome, Alaska, who served the town and the surrounding communities.

He was supported by four nurses at the 25-bed Maynard Columbus Hospital.

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Several months earlier, Welch had placed an order for more diphtheria antitoxin after discovering that the hospital’s entire batch had expired.

However, the replacement shipment did not arrive before the port was closed by ice for the winter, and more could not be shipped in to Nome until spring.

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In December 1924, several days after the last ship left the port, Welch treated a few children for what he first diagnosed as sore throats or tonsillitis, initially dismissing diphtheria as it is extremely contagious, and he would have expected to see more symptoms in family members, or other cases around town, instead of a few isolated cases.

In the next few weeks, as the number of “tonsillitis” cases grew and four children died, whom Welch had not been able to autopsy, he became increasingly concerned about diphtheria.

By mid-January 1925, Welch officially diagnosed the first case of diphtheria in a three-year-old boy who died only two weeks after first becoming ill.

The following day, when a seven-year-old girl presented the same tell-tale symptoms of diphtheria, Welch attempted to administer some of the expired antitoxin to see if it might still have any effect, but the girl died a few hours later.

Realizing that an epidemic was imminent, that same evening, Welch called Mayor George Maynard to arrange an emergency town council meeting. 

The council immediately implemented a quarantine.

The following day, on 22 January 1925, Welch sent radio telegrams to all other major towns in Alaska alerting them of public health risk and he also sent one to the US Public Health Services in Washington DC asking for assistance.

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His message to the Public Health Service said:

AN EPIDEMIC OF DIPHTHERIA IS ALMOST INEVITABLE HERE 

STOP

I AM IN URGENT NEED OF ONE MILLION UNITS OF DIPHTHERIA ANTITOXIN

STOP

MAIL IS ONLY FORM OF TRANSPORTATION

STOP

I HAVE MADE APPLICATION TO COMMISSIONER OF HEALTH OF THE TERRITORIES FOR ANTITOXIN ALREADY

STOP

THERE ARE ABOUT 3,000 WHITE NATIVES IN THE DISTRICT

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Despite the quarantine, there were over 20 confirmed cases of diphtheria and at least 50 more at risk by the end of January.

Without antitoxin, it was expected that in the surrounding region’s population of around 10,000 people, the mortality rate could be close to 100%.

A previous influenza pandemic of the so-called “Spanish flu” had hit the area in 1918 and 1919 and wiped out about 50% of the native population of Nome and 8% of the native population of Alaska.

More than 1,000 people died in northwest Alaska, and double that across the state.

The majority were Alaska Natives who did not have resistance to either disease.

Soldiers from Fort Riley, Kansas, ill with Spanish flu at a hospital ward at Camp Funston

At the 24 January meeting of the board of health, superintendent Mark Summers of the Hammon Consolidated Gold Fields proposed a dogsled relay using two fast teams.

One would start at Nenana and the other at Nome, and they would meet at Nulato.

Nenana train station and Parks Highway bridge

Above: Nulato

The trip from Nulato to Nome normally took 30 days, although the record was nine.

Welch estimated that the serum would only last six days under the brutal conditions on the trail. 

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Summers’ employee, the Norwegian Leonhard Seppala (1877 – 1967), was chosen for the 630 mile (1,014 km) round trip from Nome to Nulato and back.

He had previously made the run from Nome to Nulato in a record-breaking four days, won the All Alaska Sweepstakes three times, and had become something of a legend for his athletic ability and rapport with his Siberian huskies.

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His lead dog, the 12 year-old Togo, was equally famous for his leadership, intelligence, and ability to sense danger.

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Above: Musher Leonhard Seppala posing with six of his sled dogs, circa 1924-1925.

Dog’s names from left to right – Togo, Karinsky, Jafet, Pete, unknown dog, Fritz.

Mayor Maynard proposed flying the antitoxin by aircraft.

In February 1924, the first winter aircraft flight in Alaska had been conducted between Fairbanks and McGrath by Carl Eielson (1897 – 1929), who flew a reliable De Havilland DH-4 issued by the US Post Office on eight experimental trips.

The longest flight was only 260 miles (420 km), the worst conditions were −10 °F (−23 °C) which required so much winter clothing that the plane was almost unflyable.

The plane made several crash landings.

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The only planes operating in Alaska in 1925 were three vintage Standard J biplanes belonging to Bennet Rodebaugh’s Fairbanks Airplane company (later Wien Air Alaska).

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The aircraft were dismantled for the winter, had open cockpits, and had water-cooled engines that were unreliable in cold weather. Since both pilots were in the contiguous United States, Alaska Delegate Dan Sutherland attempted to get the authorization to use an inexperienced pilot, Roy Darling.

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Above: Daniel Sutherland (1869 – 1955)

While potentially quicker, the board of health rejected the option and voted unanimously for the dogsled relay.

Seppala was notified that evening and immediately started preparations for the trip.

The US Public Health Service had located 1.1 million units of serum in West Coast hospitals which could be shipped to Seattle, and then transported to Alaska.

The Alameda would be the next ship north and would not arrive in Seattle until 31 January, and then would take another 6 to 7 days to arrive in Seward.

On 26 January, the Anchorage Railroad Hospital found 300,000 forgotten units, after the chief of surgery, John Beeson, heard of the need.

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The supply was wrapped in glass vials, then padded quilts, and finally a metallic cylinder weighing a little more than 20 pounds (9 kg).

At Governor Scott Bone’s order, it was packed and handed to conductor Frank Knight, who arrived in Nenana on 27 January.

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Above: Scott Bone (1860 – 1936)

While not sufficient to defeat the epidemic, the 300,000 units could hold it at bay until the larger shipment arrived.

The temperatures across the Interior were at 20-year lows due to a high pressure system from the Arctic.

In Fairbanks the temperature was −50 °F (−46 °C).

A second system was burying the Alaskan Panhandle, as 25 mph (40 km/h) winds swept snow into 10-foot (3 m) drifts.

Travel by sea was hazardous, and across the Interior most forms of transportation shut down.

In addition, there were limited hours of daylight to fly, due to the polar night.

While the first batch of serum was traveling to Nenana, Governor Bone gave final authorization to the dog relay, but ordered Edward Wetzler, the US Post Office inspector, to arrange a relay of the best drivers and dogs across the Interior.

The teams would travel day and night until they handed off the package to Seppala at Nulato.

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The decision outraged William Fentress “Wrong Font” Thompson, publisher of the Fairbanks Daily News-Miner and aircraft advocate, who helped line up the pilot and plane.

He used his paper to write scathing editorials.

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The mail route from Nenana to Nome spanned 674 miles (1,085 km) in total.

It crossed the barren Alaska Interior, following the Tanana River for 137 miles (220 km) to the village of Tanana at the junction with the Yukon River, and then following the Yukon for 230 miles (370 km) to Kaltag.

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Above: Tanana River near Fairbanks

Postcard: Front Street, Tanana, 1910

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Above: Aerial view of the village of Kaltag and the Yukon

The route then passed west 90 miles (140 km) over the Kaltag Portage to Unalakleet on the shore of Norton Sound.

Aerial view of Unalakleet, taken 2010

The route then continued for 208 miles (335 km) northwest around the southern shore of the Seward Peninsula with no protection from gales and blizzards, including a 42 miles (68 km) stretch across the shifting ice of the Bering Sea.

Wetzler contacted Tom Parson, an agent of the Northern Commercial Company, which contracted to deliver mail between Fairbanks and Unalakleet.

Telephones and telegraphs turned the drivers back to their assigned roadhouses.

The mail carriers held a revered position in the territory and were the best dog mushers in Alaska.

The majority of relay drivers across the Interior were native Athabaskans, direct descendants of the original dog mushers.

The first musher in the relay was “Wild Bill” Shannon, who was handed the 20 pounds (9 kg) package at the train station in Nenana on 27 January 27 at 9:00 at night.

Despite a temperature of −50 °F (−46 °C), Shannon left immediately with his team of 11 inexperienced dogs, led by Blackie.

The temperature began to drop and the team was forced onto the colder ice of the river because the trail had been destroyed by horses.

Despite jogging alongside the sled to keep warm, Shannon developed hypothermia.

He reached Minto at 3 am, with parts of his face black from frostbite.

The temperature was −62 °F (−52 °C).

After warming the serum by the fire and resting for four hours, Shannon dropped three dogs and left with the remaining 8.

The three dogs died shortly after Shannon returned for them, and a fourth may have died as well.

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Half-Athabaskan Edgar Kalland arrived in Minto the night before and was sent back to Tolovana, travelling 70 mi (110 km) the day before the relay.

Shannon and his team arrived in bad shape at 11 am, and handed over the serum.

After warming the serum in the roadhouse, Kalland headed into the forest.

The temperature had risen to −56 °F (−49 °C), and according to at least one report the owner of the roadhouse at Manley Hot Springs had to pour water over Kallands’ hands to get them off the sled’s handlebar when he arrived at 4 pm.

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No new cases of diphtheria were diagnosed on 28 January, but two new cases were diagnosed on 29 January.

The quarantine had been obeyed but lack of diagnostic tools and the contagiousness of the strain rendered it ineffective.

More units of serum were discovered around Juneau the same day.

While no count exists, the estimate based on weight is roughly 125,000 units, enough to treat 4 to 6 patients.

The crisis had become headline news in newspapers, including San Francisco, Cleveland, Washington DC and New York, and spread to the radio sets which were just becoming common.

The storm system from Alaska hit the contiguous United States, bringing record lows to New York, and freezing the Hudson River.

A fifth death occurred on 30 January.

Maynard and Sutherland renewed their campaign for flying the remaining serum by plane.

Different proposals included flying a large aircraft 2,000 miles (3,200 km) from Seattle to Nome, carrying a plane to the edge of the pack ice via Navy ship and launching it, and the original plan of flying the serum from Fairbanks.

Despite receiving headline coverage across the country, the support of several cabinet departments and from Arctic explorer Roald Amundsen, the plans were rejected by experienced pilots, the Navy, and Governor Bone.

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Above: Roald Amundsen (1872 – 1928)

Thompson’s editorials waxed virulent against those opposing using airplanes.

In response, Bone decided to speed up the relay and authorized additional drivers for Seppala’s leg of the relay, so they could travel without rest.

Seppala was still scheduled to cover the most dangerous leg, the shortcut across Norton Sound, but the telephone and telegraph systems bypassed the small villages he was passing through, and there was no way to tell him to wait at Shaktoolik.

The plan relied on the driver from the north catching Seppala on the trail.

Summers arranged for drivers along the last leg, including Seppala’s colleague Gunnar Kaasen.

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Above: Gunnar Kassen (1882 – 1960) and Balto

From Manley Hot Springs, the serum passed through largely Athabascan hands before George Nollner delivered it to Charlie Evans at Bishop Mountain on 30 January at 3 am.

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The temperature had warmed slightly, but at −62 °F (−52 °C), was dropping again.

Evans relied on his lead dogs when he passed through ice fog where the Koyukuk River had broken through and surged over the ice, but forgot to protect the groins of his two short-haired mixed breed lead dogs with rabbit skins.

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Both dogs collapsed with frostbite, with Evans having to take their place himself pulling the sled.

He arrived at 10 am.

Both dogs were dead.

Tommy Patsy departed within half an hour.

The serum then crossed the Kaltag Portage in the hands of Jack Nicolai aka “Jackscrew” and the Alaska Native Victor Anagick, who handed it to his fellow Alaska Native Myles Gonangnan on the shores of the Sound, at Unalakleet on 31 January at 5 am.

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Gonangnan saw the signs of a storm brewing and decided not to take the shortcut across the dangerous ice of the Sound.

He departed at 5:30 am, and as he crossed the hills, “the eddies of drifting, swirling snow passing between the dog’s legs and under the bellies made them appear to be fording a fast running river.”

The whiteout conditions cleared as he reached the shore and the gale-force winds drove the wind chill to −70 °F (−57 °C).

At 3 pm he arrived at Shaktoolik.

Seppala was not there, but Henry Ivanoff was waiting just in case.

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On 30 January, the number of cases in Nome had reached 27 and the antitoxin was depleted.

According to a reporter living in Nome:

All hope is in the dogs and their heroic drivers.

Nome appears to be a deserted city.”

With the report of Gonangnan’s progress on 31 January, Welch believed the serum would arrive there in February.

Leonhard Seppala and his dog sled team, with his lead dog Togo, traveled 91 miles (146 km) from Nome from 27 January to 31 January into the oncoming storm.

They took the shortcut across the Norton Sound, and headed toward Shaktoolik.

The temperature in Nome was a relatively warm −20 °F (−29 °C), but in Shaktoolik the temperature was estimated at −30 °F (−34 °C), and the gale force winds causing a wind chill of −85 °F (−65 °C).

Henry Ivanoff’s team ran into a reindeer and got tangled up just outside Shaktoolik.

Seppala still believed he had more than 100 mi (160 km) to the original relay point in Nulato to go and had raced to get off the Norton Sound before the storm hit.

He was passing the team when Ivanoff shouted:

The serum! The serum! I have it here!

Seppala turned around and reached Ungalik with the serum after dark.

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With the news of the worsening epidemic, he decided to brave the storm and once again set out across the 20 miles (32 km) of exposed open ice of the Norton Sound.

The temperature was estimated at −30 °F (−34 °C), but the wind chill with the gale force winds was −85 °F (−65 °C).

Togo led the team in a straight line through the dark and they arrived at the roadhouse in Isaac’s Point on the other side at 8 pm.

In one day, they had traveled 84 mi (135 km), averaging 8 mph (13 km/h).

The team rested and departed at 2 am into the full power of the storm.

During the night the temperature dropped to −40 °F (−40 °C), and the wind increased to storm force (at least 65 mph [105 km/h]).

The team ran across the ice while following the shoreline.

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They returned to shore to cross Little McKinley Mountain, climbing 5,000 feet (1,500 m).

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After descending to the next roadhouse in Golovin, Seppala passed the serum to Charlie Olsen on 1 February at 3 pm.

On 1 February, the number of cases in Nome rose to 28.

The serum en route was sufficient to treat 30 people.

With the powerful blizzard raging and winds of 80 mph (130 km/h), Welch ordered a stop to the relay until the storm passed, reasoning that a delay was better than the risk of losing it all.

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Messages were left at Solomon and Point Safety before the lines went dead.

Olsen was blown off the trail and suffered severe frostbite in his hands while putting blankets on his dogs.

The wind chill was −70 °F (−57 °C).

He arrived at Bluff on 1 February at 7 pm in poor shape. 

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Gunnar Kaasen waited until 10 pm for the storm to break, but it only got worse and the drifts would soon block the trail so he departed into a headwind.

Kaasen traveled through the night, through drifts, and river overflow over the 600-foot (183 m) Topkok Mountain. 

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Balto led the team through visibility so poor that Kaasen could not always see the dogs harnessed closest to the sled.

He was two miles (3 km) past Solomon before he realized it, and kept going.

The winds after Solomon were so severe that his sled flipped over and he almost lost the cylinder containing the serum when it fell off and became buried in the snow.

He also suffered frostbite when he had to use his bare hands to feel for the cylinder.

Kaasen reached Point Safety ahead of schedule on 2 February at 3 am.

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Ed Rohn believed that Kaasen and the relay was halted at Solomon, so he was sleeping.

Since the weather was improving, it would take time to prepare Rohn’s team, and Balto and the other dogs were moving well,

Kaasen pressed on the remaining 25 miles (40 km) to Nome, reaching Front Street at 5:30 am.

Not a single ampule was broken, and the antitoxin was thawed and ready by noon.

Together, the teams covered the 674 miles (1,085 km) in 127 ½ hours, which was considered a world record, done in extreme subzero temperatures in near-blizzard conditions and hurricane-force winds.

A number of dogs died during the trip.

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Margaret Curran from the Solomon roadhouse was infected, which raised fears that the disease might spread from patrons of the roadhouse to other communities.

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The 1.1 million units had left Seattle on 31 January and were not due by dog sled until February 8.

Welch asked for half the serum to be delivered by aircraft from Fairbanks.

He contacted Thompson and Sutherland, and Darling made a test flight the next morning.

With his health advisor, Governor Bone concluded the cases in Nome were actually going down, and withheld permission, but preparations went ahead.

The US Navy moved a minesweeper north from Seattle.

The Signal Corps were ordered to light fires to guide the planes.

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Above: Logo of the US Signal Corps

By 3 February, the original 300,000 units had proved to be still effective, and the epidemic was under control.

A sixth death, probably unrelated to diphtheria, was widely reported as a new outbreak of the disease.

The batch from Seattle arrived on board the Admiral Watson on 7 February.

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Acceding to pressure, Governor Bone authorized half to be delivered by plane.

On 8 February the first half of the second shipment began its trip by dog sled, while the plane failed to start when a broken radiator shutter caused the engine to overheat.

The plane failed the next day as well, and the mission was scrapped.

Thompson was gracious in his editorials.

The second relay included many of the same drivers, and also faced harsh conditions.

The serum arrived on 15 February.

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The death toll from diphtheria in Nome is officially listed as seven, but Welch later estimated there were probably at least 100 additional cases among “the Inuit camps outside the city.

The Natives have a habit of burying their children without reporting the death.

Forty-three new cases were diagnosed in 1926, but they were easily managed with the fresh supply of serum.

All participants in the dogsleds received letters of commendation from President Calvin Coolidge and the Senate stopped work to recognize the event.

The media largely ignored the Athabaskan and Alaska Native mushers, who covered two-thirds of the distance to Nome.

According to Edgar Kalland:

It was just an everyday occurrence as far as we were concerned.

Alaska, unlike the contiguous United States and Canada below the Arctic Circle, doesn’t hold Groundhog Day, for no one expects winter to end that soon.

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This day in Russia is a bittersweet memory as on this day in 1943 the brutal Battle of Stalingrad ended in a Russian Pyrrhic victory and 1989 saw a defeated Afghanistan campaign end with the last Soviet soldiers leaving unsatisfied.

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Above: The centre of Stalingrad after the Battle

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Above: Last Soviet troop column crosses Soviet border after leaving Afghanistan

And on the opposite hemisphere, on this day in 1990, South African President F.W. de Klerk announced the unbanning of the African National Congress (ANC) and promised to release Nelson Mandela.

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Above: F.W. de Klerk

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portrait photograph of a 76-year-old President Mandela

Above: Nelson Mandela (1918 – 2013)

A new day dawning, apartheid diminishing.

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It is this idea of ordinary places, of ordinary days repeated, that makes me think of Stratford (ON).

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Above: Downtown Stratford (ON)

London, Ontario to Winnipeg, Manitoba, Monday 13 January 2020

Stratford, despite its English name, isn’t Stratford upon Avon, England.

Above: Historic Properties, Stratford upon Avon, England

It has seen no battles, will probably never reach the grandeur of New York nor ever be recognized as being as isolated as a Selkirk island or a Canadian Nome.

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Above: Manhattan, New York City

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Through the Shakespeare Festival actors cut their teeth in Stratford and afterwards shone brightly elsewhere.

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Above: Festival Theatre

Alec Guinness (Star Wars), Christopher Plummer (The Sound of Music), Maggie Smith (Harry Potter), and William Shatner (Star Trek) are all Shakespeare Festival alumni.

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Above: Alec Guinness (1914 – 2000)

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Above: Christopher Plummer (1929 – 2021)

Above: Dame Maggie Smith

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Above: Martha Henry

Above: William Shatner

Stratford has nurtured the talents of actors Colm Feore and Graham Greene, musicians Loreena McKennitt, Ron Sexsmith and Justin Bieber, journalists Peter Mansbridge, Cythnia Dale and Lloyd Robertson, as well as the first woman in Canada’s House of Commons (Agnes Macphail) and the first woman in Canada to become a licensed medical doctor (Jennie Kid Trout).

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Above: Colm Feore

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Above: Graham Greene

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Above: Loreena McKennitt

Ron Sexsmith, 2011

Above: Ron Sexsmith

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Above: Justin Bieber

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Above: Peter Mansbridge

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Above: Cynthia Dale

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Above: Lloyd Robertson

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Above: Agnes Macphail (1890 – 1954)

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Above: Jennie Kidd Trout, MD (1841 – 1921)

American inventor Thomas Edison briefly worked as a telegraph operator in 1863 for the Grand Trunk Railway at Stratford’s railway station at age 16.

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Above: Thomas Edison (1847 – 1931)

In the 1920s, one sixth of all furniture made in Canada was made in Stratford.

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In 1997, Nations in Bloom crowned Stratford the “Prettiest City in the World.”

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Stratford is also well known for its local swans, in 2013 it had 22 white swans and one black swan.

Every year, the swans are marched to the river with an accompanying bagpipe band.

(Haven’t they suffered enough?)

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The Stratford Shakespeare Festival began in 1953 when, on 13 July, actor Alec Guinness spoke the first lines of the first play produced by the festival.

The performances during the first four seasons took place in a concrete amphitheatre covered by giant canvas tent on the banks of the River Avon.

The first of many years of Stratford Shakespeare Festival production history started with a six-week season, opening on 13 July 1953, with Richard III and then All’s Well That Ends Well both starring Alec Guinness.

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The 1954 season ran for nine weeks and included Sophocles’ Oedipus Rex and two Shakespeare plays, Measure for Measure and The Taming of the Shrew.

Young actors during the first four seasons included several who went on to great success in subsequent years, such as Douglas Campbell (Oedipus Rex), Don Harron (Charlie Farquharson), William Hutt (The Statement) and Douglas Rain (HAL).

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Above: Don Harron (1924 – 2015), as Charlies Farquharson

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Above: William Hutt (1920 – 2007)

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Above: Douglas Rain (1928 – 2018)

(I find myself reminded of Tom Lehrer’s Oedipus Rex song…..

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Above: Tom Lehrer

From the Bible to the popular song
There’s one theme that we find right along
Of all ideals they hail as good
The most sublime is motherhood

There was a man though, who it seems
Once carried this ideal to extremes
He loved his mother and she loved him
And yet his story is rather grim

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There once lived a man named Oedipus Rex
You may have heard about his odd complex
His name appears in Freud’s index
‘Cause he loved his mother

His rivals used to say quite a bit
That as a monarch he was most unfit
But still in all they had to admit
That he loved his mother

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Yes, he loved his mother like no other
His daughter was his sister and his son was his brother
One thing on which you can depend is
He sure knew who a boy’s best friend is

When he found what he had done
He tore his eyes out, one by one
A tragic end to a loyal son
Who loved his mother

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So be sweet and kind to mother now and then have a chat
Buy her candy or some flowers or a brand new hat
But maybe you had better let it go at that

Or you may find yourself with a quite complex complex
And you may end up like Oedipus
I’d rather marry a duck-billed platypus
Than end up like old Oedipus Rex.

I digress, for that is what I do.)

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The new Festival Theatre was dedicated on 30 June 1957, with seating for over 1,800 people.

None are more than 65 feet from the thrust stage.

It has seven acting levels, nine major entrances, a balcony and trapdoors.

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(Pandemic paradise)

Hello
It’s me
I’m in California dreaming about going out to eat
Just a burger
With cheese
Or a shaken margarita, baby back ribs from Chili’s

Chili's Logo.svg

Hello-o-o
Can you hear me?
I am shouting out to neighbours who I used to like to see
When we were outside
And free

Is there something else to watch
Besides the news and Finding Dory
There’s social distance between us
And I’m freaking out

Finding Dory.jpg

Hello from the inside
It’s just me and myself and I
And a Stay Home order that’s breaking my heart
But it’s clearly what we should have done from the start

Hello from Corona life
I’ve FaceTime called a 1,000 times
To show you I’m sitting right here on the couch
What’s the point of putting on pants anyhow, anymore?

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Hello
How are you?
Do your fingers hurt from scrolling through
The cat memes on your iPhone?

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I hope that you’re well
Did you ever make it out of that town
Before they closed the Costco?
It’s no secret that the both of us
Haven’t showered yet

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Hello to Corona life (Corona life)
They’re saying stay home til July? (til July)
Jesus Christ, Almighty
Can you please send me strength?
I’m so sick and tired
Of my own Goddamned face

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Hello from self quarantine (quarantine)
I’m begging Amazon to please (Amazon to please)
After sending more soap, can you please figure out
How to send a box of my friends to my house?

Amazon logo.svg

I’m so bored!
(Help! Help! Help! Help!)
Ooh, I’m so bored!
(Help! Help! Help! Help!)
Ooh, I’m so bored!
Ooh… I’m so bored! I’m so bored!
(Help! Help! Help! Help!)

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Hello from the inside
It’s just me and myself and I (myself and I)
And a Stay Home order that’s breaking my heart
But it’s clearly what we should have done from the start

Hello from Corona life (Corona life)
I’ve FaceTime called a 1,000 times
To show you I’m sitting right here on the couch
What’s the point of putting on pants anyhow, anymore?

Image result for hello (from the inside) an adele parody by chris mann parole lyrics

Over the years, additional theatrical venues were added: the Avon Theatre, the Tom Patterson Theatre (originally Shakespeare 3 Company) and the Studio Theatre.

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Above: Avon Theatre

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Above: The Tom Patterson Theatre

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The annual festival now draws hundreds of thousands of theatre goers and tourists to the area each year.

Acclaimed actors have performed at the Festival.

The Canadian novelist and playwright Timothy Findley performed in the first season, and had an ongoing relationship with the festival, eventually moving to Stratford in 1997.

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Above: Timothy Findley (1930 – 2002)

Numerous visitors arrive in Stratford each week during the May to October Festival season, often by the busload.

National Geographic Traveler considers the theatres to be “nirvana” and also praises other aspects of the town.

During the festival—which stages everything from Shakespeare to Sondheim to new Canadian plays—you can stay in theater-themed B&Bs, hang out with actors post-show at local bars like Down the Street, go on backstage tours, and attend dozens of other events with other theater-mad folk.

Stratford itself is the type of walkable wholesome town Rodgers and Hammerstein might write a musical about.”

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About 400,000 persons flock here every summer for the Stratford Shakespearean Festival, one of Canada’s premier theatre attractions.

They see performances not only of works by the Bard, but also of plays by such authors as Molière, Jonson, Chekhov and Ibsen.

Portrait of Molière by Pierre Mignard (c. 1658)

Above: Jean-Baptiste Poquelin (aka Molière) (1622 – 1673)

Ben Jonson (c. 1617), by Abraham Blyenberch; oil on canvas painting at the National Portrait Gallery, London

Above: Ben Jonson (1572 – 1637)

Henrik Ibsen by Eilif Peterssen, 1895

Above: Henrik Ibsen (1828 – 1906)

(Molière was a favourite of Rita Hansen (Andie MacDowell), Chekhov a favourite of Phil Connors (Bill Murray) in the 1993 fantasy comedy film Groundhog Day.)

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Above: Rita Hansen

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Above: Phil Connors

The Festival Exhibition, in the Stratford Town Hall, has displays dealing with the festival themes.

City Hall

Above: Town Hall

At the Rothmans Art Gallery near the Festival Theatre are exhibits of contemporary paintings, prints and sculptures.

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The Minnie Thomson Memorial Museum has a steam calliope built in 1897, 20 antique automobiles (including a rare Pierce Arrow five-ton truck) and more than 7,000 pieces of farm machinery.

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The Brocksden School Museum, 2.5 miles east of town centre, is in a school building that dates from 1853 – the last time I dated as well – with desks, slates and maps used in 19th century Ontario rural schools.

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The Museum’s collection of books includes a National School textbook (1835), one of a series of Irish texts.

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Speaking of the printed page….

The poet and playwright James Reaney was born on 1 September 1926 on a farm near Stratford at South Easthope (not to be confused with Northwest Despair – they are two totally different places) in Perth County.

Reaney attended a one-room school at Elmhurst until the age of 14, when he entered Stratford Collegiate and Vocational Institute.

Throughout his childhood he went to church and Sunday school in the city.

He left the district to attend school in Winnipeg in 1949, but Stratford and the surrounding farm region recur in his work, including two poetry collections, A Suit of Nettles (1958) and Twelve Letters to a Small Town (1962), proving you can take the Reaney out of Stratford but not the Pretty City of Nirvana out of the Reaney.

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Above: James Reaney (1926 – 2008)

(I find myself wondering if I were to write 12 letters to the hamlet of Landschlacht, what would I say?)

Gimme a ticket for an aeroplane
Ain’t got time to take a fast train
Lonely days are gone, I’m a-goin’ home
My baby, just a wrote me a letter

I don’t care how much money I gotta spend
Got to get back to my baby again
Lonely days are gone, I’m a-goin’ home
My baby, just-a wrote me a letter

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Well, she wrote me a letter
Said she couldn’t live without me no more
Listen mister, can’t you see I got to get back
To my baby once-a more
Anyway, yeah

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Reaney’s play Colours in the Dark (1969) was staged in 1967 at the Festival.

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Other Canadian authors have staged plays here:

  • Tom Hendry (1929 – 2012) (Satyricon)(1969)

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  • Roch Carrier (La Guerre, Yes Sir!)(1972)

Roch Carrier in 2006

  • Michael Ondaatje (The Collected Works of Billy the Kid)(1973)

Ondaatje speaking at Tulane University, 2010

  • Henry Beissel (Inook and the Sea)(1973)

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Above: Henry Beissel

  • John Herbert (Fortune and Men’s Eyes)(1965)

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Above: John Herbert (1926 – 2001)

In Hugh Hood’s (1928 – 2000) novel The Scenic Art (1948), Stratford’s first season provides the setting and basic situation.

The wife of the novel’s protagonist, Matt Goderich, is a member of the Festival’s design team.

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Stratford was the birthplace in the 19th century of Kathleen and Robina Lizars.

It was here that they wrote their three jointly authored books.

Two of these were graceful and amusing anecdotal histories:

  • In the Days of the Canada Company: The Story of the Settlement of the Huron Tract and a View of the Social Life of the Period 1825 – 1850 (1896)

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  • Humours of ’37: Grave and Grim Rebellion Times in the Canadas (1897)

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Their third book is a satirical novel, Committed to His Charge (1900), that pokes fun at Stratford society through its story of the conflict between a new Anglican rector and the entrenched, overbearing Ladies’ Auxiliary of his parish.

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Did Stratford find the Lizars’ satire amusing?

I wonder.

Above: Perth County Court House, Stratford, Ontario

I have tried to like Stratford.

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But there is a subtle undertone of superficiality and artificiality here, that its name entitles this most ordinary of Ontario towns to assume an air of superiority, but Paris (ON) is not Paree, nor Vienna (ON) Wien, nor London (ON) a surrogate city for Buckingham Palace II.

Grand River riverfront in Paris, Ontario

Above: Paris, Ontario

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Above: Paris, France

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Above: Vienna, Ontario

From top, left to right: Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna City Hall, St. Stephen's Cathedral, Vienna State Opera, and Austrian Parliament Building

Above: Images of Vienna, Austria

Clockwise from top: London skyline as of 2009, Victoria Park, London Normal School, Financial District, Budweiser Gardens

Above: Images of London, Ontario

Above: London, England

Aerial view of the palace with crowds outside celebrating Elizabeth II's official 90th birthday

Above: Buckingham Palace

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Building a second Tour d’Eiffel in Paris (ON) would not fool anyone from France and yet the (to be fair, talented and noteworthy) Shakespeare Festival in Stratford has given the locals a rarified attitude that they are uniquely cultured.

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Above: Eiffel Tower, Paris, France

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Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

Heaven forbid if the visitor to Stratford (ON) questions their claim to their English namesake.

Only an idiot would do such a thing.

Ask my wife.

I am an idiot.

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From the Stratford Beacon-Herald, Saturday 10 January 1991

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Hitting the open road with a mind to match is the agenda for him during the next years.

There is no timespan that the affable and articulate 25-year-old, loosely based in Ottawa, has set for completing his adventure – a “walkabout” across Canada….

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Still on the first leg of the journey he began last 14 May, his birthday, the backpack-laden traveller wandered into Stratford for a brief stay Friday.

He met with locals at the Blarney Stone Café for some coffee – the lifeblood of his trip.

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Of Irish and Scottish ancestry (with American, English and Canadian to spice the pot), the talkative traveller could not have picked a more ironic place to stop and chat.

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Stopping and talking with locals is what the bilingual former Montréal office manager’s trip is all about….

The reason to travel is to meet people – people are what make a country,” he said of his adventure, inspired by the Peter Jenkins biography, A Walk Across America.

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But in as much as his journey is an adventure, it is also a learning experience and a test of resilience.

I was like a baby trying to make his first steps“, he explained….

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He has had to learn to trust in people and read human nature.

“I don’t take ‘No’ personally any more.”

But ‘No’ is what he sometimes hears when he knocks on farmhouse doors looking for somewhere warm to sleep winter nights.

Although he carries a “supposedly” four-season two-man tent and down-filled sleeping bag, he said it can get cold.

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The other night in Shakespeare, he got turned down almost everywhere he went, prejudicing his opinion against the hamlet.

If you didn’t know who William Shakespeare was and you walked into Shakespeare (ON), you would think he was a truck-driving antique dealer“, he quipped.

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As for Stratford, he frankly said he was disappointed.

He compared the east end up to Romeo Street to suburban Scarborough in Toronto.

Things improve after that, with Ontario Street conjuring up ideas of Shakespeare’s The Winter’s Tale.

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The County Courthouse and the City Hall also drew high praise.

If the Ontario Municipal Board gods looked down, they would say ‘Bravo!’“, he said.

But his overall impression of Stratford trying to imitate its namesake in England is that it has failed in his opinion.

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An aspiring writer, he has been recording his impressions, thoughts and ideas of everywhere he visits in pocket-sized notebooks.

His goal is to eventually write about his experiences….

He described his spirit as a blend of honour and insanity, similar to Miguel de Cervantes’ literary character Don Quixote.

But the bottom line is simple.

He just wants to be able to tell a good story.

The irony of a pretentious fool calling out an Ontario town for being pretentious is no longer lost on me.

Nor was it lost on the readers of the Stratford Beacon-Herald.

I was later informed that my remarks generated reactions, many of them angry.

And in hindsight I know I deserved them.

My sole defense is that I had spent a truly terrible night in the cold and was feeling disgruntled about it.

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Instant Karma’s gonna get you
Gonna knock you right on the head
You better get yourself together
Pretty soon you’re gonna be dead
What in the world were you thinking of
Laughing in the face of love
What on Earth were you tryin’ to do
It’s up to you, yeah you

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Instant Karma’s gonna get you
Gonna look you right in the face
Better get yourself together darlin’
Join the human race
How in the world you gonna see
Laughin’ at fools like me
Who in the hell d’you think you are
A super star
Well, right you are

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Well we all shine on
Like the moon and the stars and the sun
Well we all shine on
Ev’ryone come on

Above: John Lennon and the Plastic Ono Band

But my argument then remains my argument now.

We do judge places by our experience of them and so it is easy to criticize a place that is not as welcoming as you had hoped it would be.

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And though a generation has passed since my visit there, as the train lingers at the station I half expect enraged townsfolk gathered with shovels and rakes and implements of destruction, prepared to arrest me, handcuff me and string me up outside the Blarney Stone Café.

It is unlikely, but nonetheless I try not to draw too much attention to myself as I nervously glance out the train’s window.

It is simply another winter, another ordinary Ontario town, with shadows across it.

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DJ #1: Okay, campers, rise and shine and don’t forget your booties ’cause it’s cold out there today!

DJ #2: It’s cold out there every day! What is this, Miami Beach?

D.J. #1: Not hardly. And you know, you can expect hazardous travel later today with that, you know, that, uh, that blizzard thing.

D.J. #2: That blizzard – thing. That blizzard – thing. Oh, well, here’s the report! The National Weather Service is calling for a “big blizzard thing!”

D.J. #1: Yessss, they are. But you know, there’s another reason why today is especially exciting.

D.J. #2: Especially cold!

D.J. #1: Especially cold, okay, but the big question on everybody’s lips…

D.J. #2: On their chapped lips…

D.J. #1: On their chapped lips, right: Do ya think Phil is gonna come out and see his shadow?

D.J. #2: Punxsutawney Phil!

D.J. #1: That’s right, woodchuck-chuckers – it’s…

D.J. #1, D.J. #2[in unison] GROUNDHOG DAY!

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(2021 was the 135th, and for the first time, much of the Inner Circle members were required to wear a mask.

The groundhog was summoned at 7:25 am on 2 February and saw its shadow.

Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the ceremony was held behind closed doors, with no fans allowed to attend.)

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Groundhog Day is observed with various ceremonies at other locations in North America beyond the United States.

Due to Nova Scotia’s Atlantic Time Zone, Shubenacadie Sam makes the first Groundhog Day prediction in North America.

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Daks Day” (from the German Dachs) is Groundhog Day in the dialect of Lunenburg, Nova Scotia.

In French Canada, where the day is known as Jour de la marmotteFred la marmotte of Val d’Espoir has been the representative forecaster for the province of Québec since 2009.

A study also shows that in Québec, the marmot or groundhog (siffleux) are regarded as Candlemas weather-predicting beasts in some scattered spots, but the bear is the more usual animal.

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Albino groundhog Wiarton Willie forecasts annually from Wiarton, Ontario.

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Balzac Billy is the “Prairie Prognosticator“, a man-sized groundhog mascot who prognosticates weather on Groundhog’s Day from Balzac, Alberta.

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(Canadian meteorologist Cindy Day has estimated that Nova Scotia’s Shubenacadie Sam has an accuracy rate of about 45% compared to 25% for Wiarton Willy in Ontario.

Phil has predicted 103 forecasts for winter and just 17 for an early spring.

Most assessments of Phil’s accuracy have given accuracy lower than would be expected with random chance, with Stormfax Almanac giving an estimate of 39%.)

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In Croatia and Serbia, Orthodox Christians have a tradition that on 2 February (Candlemas) or 15 February (Sretenje – The Meeting of the Lord), the bear will awaken from winter dormancy, and if it sees (meets) its own shadow in this sleepy and confused state, it will get scared and go back to sleep for an additional 40 days, thus prolonging the winter.

Thus, if it is sunny on Sretenje, it is a sign that the winter is not over yet.

If it is cloudy, it is a good sign that the winter is about to end.

Similarly in Germany, on 27 June, they recognize the Seven Sleepers’ Day (Siebenschläfertag).

If it rains that day, the rest of summer is supposedly going to be rainy.

As well, in the United Kingdom, 15 July is known as St. Swithin’s Day.

It was traditionally believed that, if it rained on that day, it would rain for the next 40 days and nights.

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(Old man, start building that boat.)

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Shadows gather as they often do, whether they be in Stratford or in Landschlacht.

How we deal with them is the difference between us.

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Predictions show a steady low.
You’re feeling just the same.
But seasons come and seasons go.
I’ll make you smile again.

If you don’t believe me,
Take me by the hand.
Can’t you feel you’re warming up?
Yeah, I’m your weatherman.

Cold winds blowin’.
Snow is drivin’ everyone insane.
Hard rain’s fallin’.
Pitter-patter down your windowpane.

If precipitation is spoilin’ all your plans,
Just call information up
Ask for the weatherman.

Ask for the weatherman.

They say it’s gone, say winter’s done.
That don’t mean a thing.
Cause I’m the one that moves the sun.
For you I’d turn it into spring.

So if you’re feeling lonely
Try to understand:
Baby, I can warm you up,
‘Cause I’m your weatherman.

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Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Brian Shypula, “Wanderer shambles into Stratford for brief stay“, Stratford Herald-Beacon, Saturday 10 January 1991 / Delbert McClinton, “Weatherman” / John Lennon, “Instant Karma” / The Boxtops, “The Letter” / James Joyce, Ulysses / Victor Hugo, Les Misérables / Chris Mann, “Hello (From the Inside)” / Tom Lehrer, “Oedipus Rex” / Billy Joel, Allentown