Canada Slim at the Zoo

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Monday 8 August 2022

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Türkiye

Two days I returned from travelling in Switzerland, Germany and Malta.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Above: Flag of Germany

Above: Flag of Malta

What defines a person’s travelling, a person’s life, is not only the things they decided to do, but as well the things they decide (or are unable) to do.

I consider Malta.

Above: Coat of arms of Malta

We visited, and used as a travel base, Valletta.

Above: Valletta, Malta Island, Malta

We visited Vittoriosa, Sliema, Paola, Marsaxlokk, Rabat and Mdina on the island of Malta itself.

Above: Vittoriosa, Malta Island, Malta

Above: Images of Sliema, Malta Island, Malta

Above: Paola, Malta Island, Malta

Above: Images of Marsaxlokk, Malta Island, Malta

Above: Collegiate Basilica of St. Paul, Rabat, Malta Island, Malta

Above: Mdina, Malta Island, Malta

Above: Topographical map of the nation of Malta

We visited Victoria and Marsalforn on the island of Gozo.

Above: Victoria (Rabat), Gozo Island, Malta

Above: Marsalforn, Gozo Island, Malta

The list of what we saw in all these places is worthy of many blogposts so I will not list these all here.

Suffice to say that choices, determined by both limited time and money, had to be made as to what we would see and what we wouldn’t see.

We ate well, slept well, saw and did many wonderful things.

What was rarely seen during our stay in Malta were stray animals.

We saw some in the San Anton Gardens, attached to the same-named Palace, in Attard.

Above: San Anton Palace Gardens, Attard, Malta Island, Malta

The early 17th century Palace once served as the official residence of the British Governor of Malta and is now that of the Maltese President.

Above: San Anton Presidential Palace, Attard, Malta Island, Malta

The lovely walled Gardens contain groves of citrus and avocado as well as an aviary.

Wandering at will through the Gardens were pigeons, doves, peacocks, ducks and cats.

Though we were in Marsaxlokk, close to St. Peter’s Pool, one of the most beautiful and stunning natural swimming spots that the Maltese littoral has to offer, it was rather remote and hard to access, which is sad, for we missed an opportunity to see the dynamic duo of Carmelo Abela and Titti.

Above: St. Peter’s Pool, Malta Island, Malta

Abela and his pet, a Jack Russell terrier called Titti, became famous after a video of their perfectly coordinated synchronized dives went viral worldwide.

The dog never hesitates to leap off 12-foot cliffs, perfectly breaking the surface of the water together with her loving and devoted provider.

Abela and Titti go down to St. Peter’s Pool almost everyday in summer, (the temperature was a constant 33°C when we were there), where locals and foreigners alike hope to see them perform and maybe get a picture of the famous airborne dog.

Titti is a loyal dog and will only jump with her provider, Abela says.

Totally enamoured with the sea, she barely gives him time to get off his motorbike before she runs off and leaps off the edge into the gin-clear waters.

Titti is adored by everybody who sees her.

She even has her own Facebook page.

I don’t envy Abela’s ability to train Titti.

I envy him the love and loyalty that Titti shows him.

Denizli, Türkiye, Friday 23 July 2022

The bus is late, ETA was 1800, it is nearly 1830.

I don’t care, for on the benches where passengers wait for their buses, a kitten stretches.

I pet and stroke it.

To my surprise and delight it jumps upon my lap, stretches up across my chest and nuzzles its head in the crook of my arm.

It is love, instant and pure.

I feel like a royal bastard, picking it off me, putting back on the bench where I found it, and boarding the bus back to Eskişehir.

Above: Bus terminal, Denizli, Türkiye

Above: The kitten king of Denizli

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Saturday 23 July 2022

The cat had its revenge, kitten’s karma.

After dinner stopover of 30 minutes in Uşak, the journey back to Eskişehir and my apartment therein was unpleasant.

Above: Cilandiras Bridge, Uşak, Türkiye

A sour puss of a passenger sits beside me and promptly falls asleep, snoring loudly.

The TV console built into the back of the seat in front of me does not function.

The roaming option on my cellphone expired mid-journey.

A manly woman (transgender?) shouts into her phone loudly.

She is heard by everyone except maybe a man in a coma in Dubai.

I miss the days when the only ways to talk on the phone were from home or at a curb telephone booth.

Instead we are all one miserable captive collective, forced to listen to the mutterings of the mad, the loud lout lunatics and the exclamations of the exasperated emotional expressive.

Above: Logo of Kämil Koç buslines (Denizli – Eskişehir)

The final fatal feeling was the man I call the Taxi Nazi.

He is possibly the only taxi driver in Türkiye who still wears a protective face mask, who insists passengers wear their seat belts, whose shotgun seat does not slide backwards, meaning a tall man like myself sits uncomfortably cramped beside the driver, who is unfriendly and impersonal as an IRS agent at your door requesting an audit of your delinquent taxes.

I once again deny him extra fare and have him stop several blocks away from my apartment.

Above: Flag of Nazi Party (1920 – 1945)

Above: Logo of the US Internal Revenue Service (IRS)

Morning comes.

I have an appointment to pick up dry cleaning from a shop close to my old apartment near ES Park shopping centre.

Above: ES Park, Eskişehir, Türkiye

The tie could be cleaned.

The stain on my recently-purchased (in Sinop) long-sleeved blue shirt is permanent.

Above: Sinop, Türkiye

I think of the cupboards bare in the apartment and I wait outside ES Park mall for it to open its doors so I can descend downstairs to Migros and buy some last minute groceries for the day and the next.

A quartet of dogs playfully scamper around me and the half dozen others waiting for security to grant us access to the mall’s interior.

Each dog in its turn seeks affection and attention from me.

I am soft-hearted.

I need love.

I need to love.

I need to be loved, if only by an animal.

Again, I do the bastard deed.

I walk away.

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Wednesday 27 July 2022

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Tomorrow, we (the wife and I) fly from Zürich, Switzerland to Valletta, Malta, and, of course, we have pondered what we will see when we get to this ocean paradise.

One attraction that is promoted on the islands that make up this Mediterranean nation is the L’Arka ta’ Noe (Noah’s Ark) – the largest zoo on the islands.

Siberian and Bengal tigers are an important highlight of the park. 

At L-Arka ta’ Noe, one can admire from a close distance three extremely unique tigers – the Golden Tabby, the pure white tiger, and a black and white tiger.

These adorable creatures will undoubtedly leave you with a remarkable smile. 

Above: L’Arka ta Noe, Triq Bur ix-Xewk, Siggiewi, Malta Island, Malta

I once again face a moral dilemma over this idea.

Above: The Thinker, Musée Rodin, Paris, France

From Warren Agius, https://www.change.org :

Before anyone considers going to l’Arka ta Noe, please keep these factors in mind.

I have no intentions on damaging their business, quite frankly I don’t care.

I only care about the well-being of the animals which are being held in that environment.

They do not deserve this ill-treatment and someone has to speak-up for them.

If you care about animals and their welfare in any way, please continue reading this post.

Just a bit of background information, l’Arka ta Noe has a lot of exotic animals.

The problem about this place is that these animals are not seen as living beings, but are seen as objects.

In fact, their own website says the following:

He started this magnificent park with only a few animals and at first it was only a private collection.”

That’s right, a collection.

And this is exactly how these animals are being treated, as a way to make money.

It is important to keep in mind the following:

  • Tigers are meant to HUNT for their food.

These tigers are fed by a person literally throwing pieces of meat on the floor.

  • The tigers cannot practice their natural instincts at all in such a confined and limited space.

There are three FULLY GROWN tigers in one enclosure.

It doesn’t matter if they are there for feeding or not.

Just one fully grown tiger travels approximately 16-32 km a day just to search for food.

  • Animals in captivity suffer from psychological distress.

When I visited the place, the tigers could be seen pacing back and forth and were aggressively jumping at the fence.

They did not seem healthy or happy at all.

This place does not resemble / imitate their original wild-life habitat AT ALL.

Hopefully, places like this one, which keep these beautiful animals in captivity, are punished for completely disregarding the animals’ well-being. 

zoo (short for zoological garden; also called an animal park or menagerie) is a facility in which animals are housed within enclosures, cared for, displayed to the public, and in some cases bred for conservation purposes.

The term zoological garden refers to zoology, the study of animals.

The term is derived from the Greek ζώονzoon, ‘animal‘, and the suffix -λογία-logia, ‘study of‘.

Above: Zoos around the world

The abbreviation zoo was first used by the London Zoological Gardens, which was opened for scientific study in 1828 and to the public in 1847. 

In the United States alone, zoos are visited by over 181 million people annually.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

The first zoos I ever visited were during my walking adventures back in my 20s – the Toronto Zoo and the Montréal Biodome.

Above: Montreal Biodome, Montréal, Québec, Canada

I have since then visited:

  • the Wildfowl and Wetland Trust, Slimbridge, Gloucestershire, England

Above: Wildfowl and Wetland Trust, Slimbridge, Gloucestershire, England

  • the Mundenhof Animal Park, Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

  • the Osnabrück Zoo, Osnabrück, Niedersachen, Germany

  • the Knies Kinderzoo, Rapperswil, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

  • Wildpark St. Peter und Paul, St. Gallen, Switzerland

Above: Logo of Wildpark Peter und Paul, St. Gallen

  • Zoo Basel, Basel, Switzerland

  • Zürich Zoologischer Garten, Switzerland

Above: Entrance of Zürich Zoo

  • Night Safari, Singapore

  • Perth Zoo, Western Australia

  • Walter Zoo, Gossau, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

The visit to this last aforementioned zoo, on 4 January 2022, is what has inspired this post.

Gossau, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland, Tuesday 4 January 2022

Above: Gossau, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

The Walter Zoo is a zoological garden above Gossau near the city of St. Gallen. 

It houses around 1,110 animals in over 120 animal species (2019). 

On the 5.5 hectare site there are also numerous play and relaxation options for children. 

The Zoo also has 4.5 hectares of adjacent land, which can be expanded over the next few years in accordance with the 2040 master plan. 

With around 250,000 visitors per year, the Walter Zoo is one of the most popular destinations in eastern Switzerland. 

As a scientifically run zoo, it is a member of EAZA and Zoo Schweiz, among others. 

In addition, it is involved in 21 (as of 2021) conservation breeding programs for endangered animal species and supports nature conservation projects in various countries financially.

Above: General map of the Walter Zoo

The Walter Zoo was founded in 1961 by Walter and Edith Pischl in Gossau.

After a few years as circus artists in the Nock Circus, Walter (from an Austrian artist dynasty) and Edith Pischl (born in Herisau) settled down with their animals in Hundwil. 

Above: Logo of Nock Circus (1860 – 2019)

Above: Herisau, Canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Switzerland

Above: Hundwil, Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Switzerland

Walter visited schools with the animals and gave lectures to make them better known to people. 

Above: Walter Pischl

Due to their growing reputation, more and more sick or unwanted animals were placed in the care of the Pischl family, which made space at their old place of residence in Hundwil tight and so the family moved to Gossau.

Due to the ever-increasing maintenance costs for facilities and feed, the family decided to charge admission. 

However, this hardly improved the financially difficult situation. 

Therefore, the Walter Zoo Association was founded in 1963 with the help of animal lovers.

The first house was built for the chimpanzees in 1973, it is now the oldest house in the zoo and is now used as a “Reptile House“. 

The current reptile house was built as the first house in 1973. 

Various reptiles and amphibians, such as Burmese pythons, guince monitors, stump crocodiles, Egyptian tortoises or moor frogs can be admired. 

Above: Burmese python

Above: Quince monitor

Above: Stump crocodiles

Above: Egyptian tortoise

Above: Moor frog

The upper, semi-open floor is inhabited by South American animal species, such as agoutis, white-headed sakis, two-toed sloths, globe armadillos and yellow-breasted macaws. 

Above: Agouti

Above: White-headed saki

Above: Two-toed sloth

Above: Armadillo

Above: Yellow-breasted macaw

In the adjacent tropical house, where the restaurant is located is home to animals such as: 

  • alligators

Above: Alligator

  • Emperor tamarins
Above: Emperor tamarin

  • jumping tamarins

Above: Jumping tamarin

  • night monkeys
Above: Night monkey

  • peacock rays

Above: Blue spotted stingray

  • crocodile tejus

Above: Caiman lizard

  • green anacondas

Above: Anaconda

Thanks to the Walter Zoo Verein, additional land could be purchased in 1980. 

In 1983, the hoofed animal stable and new bird aviaries were set up along the path.

In 1985, Walter and Edith Pischl handed over the zoo to Gabi (the youngest daughter) and Ernst Federer. 

Just one year later, the ground-breaking ceremony for the tropical house with the zoo restaurant followed.

The Walter Zoo opened the largest chimpanzee facility in Switzerland in 1993.

The facility is inhabited by 15 chimpanzees (as of 2021), making it the largest chimpanzee group in Switzerland.

In 1995, Walter Pischl died unexpectedly. 

He had a strong influence on the zoo until his last days. 

He was also significantly involved in the construction of the new, large chimpanzee enclosure, which began in 1993.

Above: Walter Pischl

In 1997, the Walter Zoo became a member of the European Association of Zoos and Aquaria (EAZA). 

This resulted in close cooperation with other zoos in Europe.

In 2001, the private zoo was converted into a public limited company (plc).

Since 2006, the Walter Zoo has been a non-profit corporation.

In 2009, the new tiger facility and the new octagonal office building with seminar and meeting rooms were opened. 

In addition, the restaurant Panorama, which is located just a few meters from the zoo, was taken over.

In 2011, the third generation joined the management with the two granddaughters of Walter Pischl, Karin Federer (veterinarian) and Jeannine Gleichmann-Federer (artist).

Between October 2012 and January 2013, the Body Worlds of Animals exhibition was held at the Zoo.

 

In 2013, the flamingo facility was renewed.

Above: Flamingos

In 2014, a new veterinary station was opened.

In 2015, the outdoor facility for the chimpanzees was renovated.

The Savannah House opened in 2017 and the new lion enclosure in autumn 2018. 

After more than ten years, when the lions were given away for the expansion of the tiger enclosures, lions came back to the Zoo. 

It is the near extinct subspecies of the Barbary lion. 

The Savannah House was opened with the focus on the savannah habitat. 

A large part is the meerkat enclosure, which the meerkats share with the spurred tortoises.

Above: Meerkats

Above: Spurred tortoise

But less well-known animals such as gundi, African egg snakes, naked mole rats or fennec can be admired. 

Above: A gundi

Above: Egg snake

Above: Naked mole rat

Above: Desert fox

However, the crowd favorite is the chameleon.

Above: Chameleon

With the opening of the new lion enclosure in autumn 2018, the lions came back. 

Three animals of the Barbary lions, now extinct in nature, inhabit the complex. 

Above: Barbary lion

The generously designed outdoor area is the heart of the new themed area, which visitors can see from several sides. 

The new zoo school was opened with the new lion enclosure.

The zoo school is located above the indoor area, which is connected to the outdoor area by a terrace. 

Above: The zoo school

Various animals are also integrated into the zoo school, from bacon beetles to giant centipedes and cockroaches to bearded dragons.

Above: Bacon beetle

Above: Centipede

Above: Cockroach

Above: Bearded dragon

Together with the lions, the tiger enclosure forms the heart of the predator enclosures at the Walter Zoo. 

The Siberian tiger is the largest subspecies of tigers. 

Young animals were born in 2018. 

Above: Siberian tiger

The keeping of Amur leopards was abandoned in 2021.

Above: Amur leopard

In the Petting Zoo, Bactrian camels, zebras and vicuñas, Shetland ponies and other hoofed animals can be admired and fed hay pellets. 

Above: Bactrian camel

Above: Zebra

Above: Vicuñas

Above: Shetland pony

Above: Hay pellets

With the African pygmy goats you can enter their enclosure to pet and feed them.

Above: African pygmy goats

The pond landscape in the northern part of the zoo offers space for various species of ducks, such as moor ducks, marmots, red-crested pochards and pintails. 

Above: Moor ducks

Above: Marmot / marble duck

Above: Red-crested pochard

Above: Pintail pair

The flamingos are also popular, with offspring having been successfully bred for the first time in 2018. 

There were youngsters again in 2019. 

Above: Baby flamingo

The walk-in aviary with galahs, budgies and horned parakeets is also popular.

Above: Galah

 

Above: Budgie

Above: Horned parakeet

Along with St. Gallen pigeons, yellow-breasted macaws, barn owls and desert buzzards are also trained. 

Above: St. Gallen pigeon

Above: Yellow-breasted macaw

Above: Barn owl

Above: Desert buzzard

This flight training can be admired on Wednesdays and Fridays in summer.

With the petting zoo, camel and pony rides, and the walk-in bird aviary, the Zoo’s offerings are strongly focused on families. 

From the end of March to mid-October, the Zoo Theater takes place with a program that changes every year. 

During the approximately one-hour performance, nature conservation issues are conveyed to children in an understandable way. 

During the winter months, the traditional Tingel-Tangel variety show offers entertainment for adults with a four-course meal. 

In summer it is also possible to stay in a tipi tent at the zoo and be guided through the Zoo at night and early in the morning.

The new logo, which the Zoo has had since spring 2020 and on which the chimpanzee has been replaced by a dragonfly in a meadow, is intended to illustrate the Zoo’s commitment to nature and species conservation. 

Like every scientifically managed zoo, the Walter Zoo also has a master plan that specifies the development of the Zoo up to the year 2040. 

In 2017, the Zoo was able to acquire land in the southwestern part, which gives the Zoo the opportunity to build new facilities. 

The biggest change is likely to be the planned relocation of the entrance from the upper part of the zoo to the parking lot. 

In spring 2022, the first facility of the master plan with pygmy otters and red pandas opened.

Above: Pygmy otter

Above: Red panda

The Walter Zoo has a wide educational range, which was expanded with the opening of the zoo school in autumn 2018. 

The zoo school was built in the style of an African lodge and shows the four major pillars of a scientifically managed zoo according to Heini Hediger: 

  • nature and species protection 
  • education
  • research
  • recreation 

Above: Zooschule, Walter Zoo

Heini Hediger (1908 – 1992) was a Swiss biologist noted for work in proxemics (the study of human use of space and the effects that population density has on behaviour, communication, and social interaction) in animal behavior and is known as the “father of zoo biology“.

Hediger was formerly the director of Tierpark Dählhölzli, Zoo Basel and Zürich Zoo.

Above: Heini Hediger

In his book Wild Animals in Captivity, a Sketch of Zoo Biology, Hediger drew largely on his experiences as director of the Dählhölzli Zoo. 

Through the scientific studies he initiated, he found out, for example, that female rabbits can become pregnant again even before they have given birth to their young. 

Above: Rabbit

However, his activities were not limited to administrative matters, as he often had to replace animal keepers who were conscripted into military service. 

He himself described his time in Bern as “hard school“. 

Difficulties in obtaining animals and feed were the order of the day. 

Despite the difficult circumstances, the Zoo received support from the zoo association.

In 1949, the Basel Zoo’s first okapi, named Bambe, died after only two months of a severe worm infection. 

With this animal, Hediger was able to gain important experience in keeping the okapi, which later made successful keeping in European zoos possible. 

Above: Okapi

In addition, very rare spectacled bears found their way into the bear enclosure. 

Above: Spectacled bear

Two years later, Hediger took care of the expansion of the Zoo and finally in 1951 a second entrance could be opened. 

The sea lion pool was surrounded by a spectator ramp.

Above: Sea lion

The giraffes were given a spacious run. 

Above: Giraffes

The first Indian rhino male was imported to Basel Zoo in the same year. 

A year later, a female animal followed. 

The bull Gadadhar and the female Joymothi form the future progenitors for the famous Basel rhino breed. 

Above: Indian rhinoceros

In 1952, five young elephants from East Africa arrived at the Zoo. 

The group quickly became known because they were taken on regular walks through the city. 

Above: African elephant

A year later, the new elephant house opened, which, in addition to the new African arrivals, is also home to the Indian rhinoceros and the pygmy hippopotamus. 

Above: Pygmy hippopotamus pair

A major success for Basel Zoo was the arrival of an adult pair of gorillas, as Basel was the first zoo in Europe to have one.

Above: Gorilla

The era of the scientifically managed Zürich Zoo began with Heini Hediger .

At the beginning of his tenure, in 1954, all members of the Zoo staff who are over 50 years of age, or at least 45 years of age with 25 years of service, received a fourth week of vacation to mark the Zoo’s 25th anniversary. 

That same year. the Zoo was used by a nurse to cheer up the sick children in the children’s hospital with a llama.

The Zoo experienced an educational innovation, the Hediger panels

Zurich Zoo was the first zoo in Europe to have information display cases containing information on four areas

  • the animal name in the national languages ​​​​as well as in its scientific form
  • the distribution map
  • a photograph (in some species a coloured drawing) of the species
  • a short text with special features of the animal described

The system of the Hediger panels has established itself in numerous zoos and has also proven itself.

Above: Heini Hediger, Zürich Zoo

Another important event under the leadership of Heini Hediger was the construction of the first free-flight hall, which can be regarded as a milestone in modern bird husbandry. 

In 1955, with an exact number of 527,332 visitors, the mark of half a million zoo visitors per year was exceeded for the first time. 

In 1960, the Zoo was recognized as a cultural institution with charitable motives and was thus exempt from taxes.

In 1961, Hediger presented an overall plan for enlarging the Zoo. 

The new annexed areas were intended to create separate areas for cloven-hoofed and non-cloven-hoofed animals, which the Zoo director hoped would avoid another closure due to foot-and-mouth disease.

The implementation of the project failed for financial reasons. 

In 1962, it was decided that supportive amounts of money would be paid by the city and canton in favour of the Zoo, which was justified by the scientific claim of the Zoo. 

Above: Logo of the Zürich Zoo

Three years later, the new Africa House opened with residents such as black rhinos, pygmy hippos and various African bird species, such as maggot choppers, cattle egrets or tokos. 

Above: Black rhino

Above: Red-billed oxpecker

Above: Cattle egret

Above: Jackson’s toko

The Africa House represented Hediger’s philosophy in an exemplary manner. 

Different animal species were housed in the same enclosure, which also form a symbiosis in nature. 

The decisive factor here was not the size, but the possibility of being able to live all the important behaviours, such as food intake and reproduction, in their own enclosure. 

Hediger’s changes also improved the Zoo’s image. 

From 1967 onwards, Heini Hediger and the senior zoo veterinarian passed on their newly acquired knowledge about the successful keeping of wild animals in the Zoo in evening courses.

At the end of his service, Hediger was honored by the city of Zürich with the Award for Cultural Services.

Above: Zürich, Switzerland

The concept of a modern zoo according to Hediger:

  • The zoo is a recreational area for the city population and thus represents an emergency exit to nature.
  • It is a source of information in the field of nature, especially zoology, and is therefore generally used for education.
  • It operates nature conservation and protects endangered species and is therefore important as a refuge and breeding station.
  • It is important for the zoo to participate in scientific research and, above all, to study the behaviour of animals more closely.

Hediger described a number of standard interaction distances used in one form or another between animals.

Two of these are flight distance and critical distance, used when animals of different species meet, whereas others are personal distance and social distance, observed during interactions between members of the same species. 

Hediger’s biological social distance theories were used as a basis for Edward T. Hall’s 1966 anthropological social distance theories.

Above: American anthropologist and cross-cultural researcher Edward T. Hall (1914 – 2009)

In the 1950s, psychologist Humphry Osmond developed the concept of socio-architecture hospital design, such as was used in the design of the Weyburn mental hospital in 1951, based partly on Hediger’s species-habitat work.

Above: Humphry Osmond (1917 – 2004) first coined the word “psychedelic

Above: Souris Valley Mental Hospital, Weyburn, Saskatchewan, Canada

In 1942 Heini Hediger developed the science of wild animals kept in human care and published his concept of a new, special branch of biology, called “zoo biology”.

The main statement is that animals in zoos are not to be considered as “captives” but as “owners of property”, namely the territory of their enclosures.

They mark and defend this territory as they do in the natural environment and if the enclosures contain these elements which are of importance to them also in their natural environment, they have neither need nor desire to leave this property, but to the contrary, stay within it, even when they would have the opportunity to escape, or return to this “safe haven”, should they by accident have escaped.

He consequently emphasized that the quality of the enclosures (“furnishing”, structure) is equally, or even more important than quantity (space, dimensions) and substantiated this with observations in the natural habitat.

Among many other things he made clear that animals in the natural habitat do not need huge spaces, and all their needs can be satisfied within close range, that, in fact, animals do not move about for pleasure but to satisfy their needs.

Zoo biology therefore implies that the life of animals in their natural surroundings must be studied in order to provide them with appropriate keeping conditions in human care.

In animal husbandry, the aim of this concept — guided by the maxim “changing cages into territories” — was to meet the biological and ethological requirements of the exhibited animals.

Hediger’s publications influenced the keeping of wild animals in human care in particular also in the construction of enclosures and the planning of zoos.

In the 1950s, he began promoting the concept of training zoo animals to elicit biologically suitable behavior and to afford the animal exercise and mental occupation.

Further, he observed that in some cases training increased the opportunity for the zookeeper to give needed medical treatments to the animal.

He also referred to zoo animal training as “disciplined play”.

In the 1940s he defined the four main tasks of zoos:

  1. Recreation
  2. Education
  3. Research
  4. Conservation

In the 1960s, he defined the seven aspects of a zoological garden considering people, money, space, methods, administration, animals and research, in that order.

Thanks to Hediger, massive barriers are no longer used today, since symbolic borders are sufficient for most animal species.

The animals living in zoos today are limited by their accepted territory boundaries, which are also marked. 

There is no complete freedom either in the zoo or in the wild, because there are limits in nature that are invisible to humans but exist for the animal species.

Hediger’s goal is to show the animals, as far as possible, in natural breeding groups, i.e. living together with their social partners, in an environment that is optimally geared to the well-being of the animals. 

This concept is in stark contrast to the then customary keeping of individual animals in small cages, as was common in the menageries of the 19th century.

The advent of vaccinations made it much easier for Hediger to adopt an attitude in social organizations. 

In order to avoid boredom and stereotypical behavior of captive wild animals, Hediger propagates the method of behavioural enrichment.

He reintroduced the new concept of zoo biology and dealt with such matters as food, causes of death, zoo architecture, the meaning of animal to man and man to animal, the exhibition value of animals, and the behavior of humans in zoos.

Hunger and love can take only second place.

The satisfaction of hunger and sexual appetite can be postponed.

Not so escape from a dangerous enemy, and all animals, even the biggest and fiercest, have enemies.

As far as higher animals are concerned, escape must thus at any rate be considered as the most important behaviour biologically.

A key behavioural characteristic of all pets is the lack of a tendency to flee. 

The best dairy cow would be of no real use if she would not allow man to approach her and she would not agree to being milked either.

Almost all pets can be described as contact animals, because not only the flight distance but also the individual distance is missing, which means that they like to be touched.

One speaks of tameness when the lack of a tendency to flee is based on an individual loss. 

Domestication as the reason for the lack of a tendency to flee is due to a genetic loss.

For humans, isn’t travel their escape?

According to Hediger, certain animals, like humans, move on roads, which means they always use the same path to get around. 

It is noticeable that smaller animals often use the roads of larger animals and these often follow the human roads themselves. 

Meandering is very characteristic of animal roads, because the geometric straight line is not biologically determined. 

The width of the roads depends specifically on the animal species (bison: 30 cm; mouse: 3 cm).

In the zoo, it is noticeable that a very heavily used crossing runs directly along the enclosure or cage border, which can be explained by a considerable reduction in the territory area. 

But even flying animals, such as birds and bats, keep moving in the same air routes.

In addition to guided tours and animal lectures, the zoo school offers workshops for school classes of all ages on various topics related to animals as well as nature and species protection. 

The school animal shows, which were already held by the founder Walter Pischl, will continue to be offered in a contemporary form on request.

When ecology emerged as a matter of public interest in the 1970s, a few zoos began to consider making conservation their central role, with Gerald Durrell of the Jersey Zoo, George Rabb of Brookfield Zoo, and William Conway of the Bronx Zoo (Wildlife Conservation Society) leading the discussion.

Above: Gerald Durrell (1925 – 1995)

Above: Statue of dodo, the logo of the Jersey Zoo, Trinity, Jersey, Channel Islands

Above: Central Fountain, Brookfield Zoo, Brookfield, Illinois

From then on, zoo professionals became increasingly aware of the need to engage themselves in conservation programs.

The American Zoo Association soon said that conservation was its highest priority. 

In order to stress conservation issues, many large zoos stopped the practice of having animals perform tricks for visitors.

The Detroit Zoo, for example, stopped its elephant show in 1969, and its chimpanzee show in 1983, acknowledging that the trainers had probably abused the animals to get them to perform.

Above: Horace Rackham Memorial Bear Fountain, Detroit Zoo, Michigan

Mass destruction of wildlife habitat has yet to cease all over the world and many species such as elephants, big cats, penguins, tropical birds, primates, rhinos, exotic reptiles, and many others are in danger of dying out.

Above: Map of the world’s biodiversity hot spots, all of which are heavily threatened by habitat loss and degradation

Above: Elephants

Above: Penguins

Many of today’s zoos hope to stop or slow the decline of many endangered species and see their primary purpose as breeding endangered species in captivity and reintroducing them into the wild.

Modern zoos also aim to help teach visitors the importance on animal conservation, often through letting visitors witness the animals firsthand. 

Some critics and the majority of animal rights activists say that zoos, no matter what their intentions are, or how noble they are, are immoral and serve as nothing but to fulfill human leisure at the expense of the animals (which is an opinion that has spread over the years).

However, zoo advocates argue that their efforts make a difference in wildlife conservation and education.

Zoo animals live in enclosures that often attempt to replicate their natural habitats or behavioral patterns, for the benefit of both the animals and visitors. 

Nocturnal animals are often housed in buildings with a reversed light-dark cycle, i.e. only dim white or red lights are on during the day so the animals are active during visitor hours, and brighter lights on at night when the animals sleep.

Special climate conditions may be created for animals living in extreme environments, such as penguins.

Special enclosures for birds, mammals, insects, reptiles, fish and other aquatic life forms have also been developed.

Some zoos have walk-through exhibits where visitors enter enclosures of non-aggressive species, such as lemurs, marmosets, birds, lizards and turtles.

Visitors are asked to keep to paths and avoid showing or eating foods that the animals might snatch.

Above: Lemurs

Above: Marmoset

Above: Lizards

Above: Turtles

Some zoos keep animals in larger, outdoor enclosures, confining them with moats and fences, rather than in cages. 

Safari parks, also known as zoo parks and lion farms, allow visitors to drive through them and come in close proximity to the animals.

Sometimes, visitors are able to feed animals through the car windows.

The first safari park was Whipsnade Park in Bedfordshire, England, opened by the Zoological Society of London in 1931 which today (2014) covers 600 acres (2.4 km2).

Since the early 1970s, an 1,800 acre (7 km2) park in the San Pasqual Valley near San Diego has featured the San Diego Zoo Safari Park, run by the Zoological Society of San Diego.

One of two state-supported zoo parks in North Carolina is the 2,000-acre (8.1 km2) North Carolina Zoo in Asheboro.

The 500-acre (2.0 km2) Werribee Open Range Zoo in Melbourne, Australia, displays animals living in an artificial savannah.

The only safari-type park I have visited was the aforementioned Night Safari in Singapore.

The Night Safari, Singapore is the world’s first nocturnal zoo.

Unlike traditional nocturnal houses, which reverse the day-night cycle of animals so they will be active by day, the Night Safari is an entire open-air zoo set in a humid tropical forest that is only open at night.

It is divided into six geographical zones, which can be explored either on foot via four walking trails, or by tram.

The animals of the Night Safari, ranging from axis deer and African buffalo to Indian rhinoceros and pangolins to lions and Asian elephants, are made visible by lighting that resembles moonlight.

Above: Axis deer

Above: African / Cape buffalo

Above: Pangolins

Although it is brighter than full moonlight by a few orders of magnitude, it is dim enough not to disturb nocturnal and crepuscular (active primarily at twilight) animals’ behaviour.

The naturalistic enclosures simulate the animals’ native habitat.

Animals are separated from visitors with natural barriers, rather than caged.

Instead of vertical prison-like cages, cattle grids were laid all over the park to prevent hoofed animals from moving one habitat to another.

These are grille-like metal sheets with gaps wide enough for animals’ legs to go through. 

Moats were designed to look like streams and rivers to enable animals to be put on show in open areas, and hot wires were designed to look like twigs to keep animals away from the boundaries of their enclosures.

The tram takes visitors across the whole park, allowing visitors to view most of the park’s larger animals.

Animals on display include: 

  • Himalayan tahrs

Above: Himalayan tahr

  • bharals

Above: Bharal

  • markhor
Above: Markhor

  • greater flamingos

Above: Greater flamingo

  • striped hyenas

Above: Striped hyena

  • Asiatic lions

Above: Asiatic lion

  • sloth bears

Above: Sloth bear

  • Indian rhinoceros
  • axis deer
  • Eld’s deer

Above: Eld’s deer

  • Cape buffalo
  • spotted hyenas
  • hippopotamus
  • white lions

Above: White lion

  • Malayan tapirs

Above: Malayan tapirs

  • dholes

Above: Dhole

  • Bornean bearded pigs

Above: Bornean bearded pig

  • Asian elephants
  • sambar deer

Above: Sambar deer

  • Asian black bears

Above: Asian black bear

Above: Night Safari park map

The Fishing Cat Trail features a variety of nocturnal animals mostly from Asia and South America such as:

  • the fishing cat

Above: Fishing cat

  • binturong 

Above: Binturong

  • spectacled owls

Above: Spectacled owl

  • southern three-banded armadillo

Above: Southern three-banded armadillo

  • maned wolf

Above: Maned wolf

  • giant anteater

Above: Giant anteater

  • Indian muntjac

Above: Indian muntjac

  • Asian small-clawed otter

Above: Asian small-clawed otters

  • gharial

Above: Gharial

  • spotted whistling ducks

Above: Spotted whistling duck

  • little pied cormorants

Above: Little pied cormorant

The Leopard Trail houses a variety of nocturnal animals from the rainforests of Asia like: 

  • clouded leopards

Above: Clouded leopard

  • a large flying fox walkthrough aviary

Above: Large flying fox

  • a habitat for animals native to Singapore like: 
    • leopard cats

Above: Leopard cat

  • Sunda pangolins

Above: Sunda pangolin

  • other habitats for: 
    • greater hog badgers

Above: Greater hog badger

  • Northern Luzon giant cloud rats

Above: Northern Luzon giant cloud rat

  • Sunda slow loris
Above: Sunda slow loris

  • Senegal bushbabies
Above: Senegal bushbaby

  • fossa

Above: Fossa

  • porcupines
Above: Porcupine

  • owls

Above: Owls

The Asiatic lions are also visible from a boardwalk on the edge of the trail.

Along the East Lodge Trail are habitats for: 

  • Malayan tigers

  • red river hogs

Above: Red river hog

  • North Sulawesi babirusa 

Above: North Sulawesi babirusa

  • bongos

Above: Bongo

  • aardvarks
Above: Aardvark

Opening in 2012, the Wallaby Trail features a walkthrough habitat for red-necked wallabies and also has enclosures for woylies, common brushtail possums and morepork.

Above: Red-necked wallaby

Above: Woylie

Above: Common bushtail possums

Above: Morepork

The Trail also has a large man-made cave called the Naracoorte Cave, a reconstruction of the Naracoorte Caves National Park, which has several indigenous paintings and holds invertebrates and reptiles.

Above: Naracoorte Cave, Night Safari, Singapore

public aquarium (plural: public aquaria or public aquariums) is the aquatic counterpart of a zoo, which houses living aquatic animal and plant specimens for public viewing.

Most public aquariums feature tanks larger than those kept by home aquarists, as well as smaller tanks.

Since the first public aquariums were built in the mid-19th century, they have become popular and their numbers have increased.

Most modern accredited aquariums stress conservation issues and educating the public.

Above: Monterey Bay Aquarium, Monterey, California

The first public aquarium was opened at the London Zoo in 1853.

Above: Aquarium, London Zoo, London, England

This was followed by the opening of public aquaria in continental Europe (e.g. Paris in 1859, Hamburg in 1864, Berlin in 1869, and Brighton in 1872) and the United States (e.g. Boston in 1859, Washington in 1873, San Francisco Woodward’s Gardens in 1873, and the New York Aquarium at Battery Park in 1896).

Above: Jardin acclimatation, Paris, France

Above: Hamburg Aquarium (1865)

Above: Berlin Aquarium, Berlin, Germany

Above: Sea Life, Brighton, England

Above: New England Aquarium, Boston, Massachusetts

Above: Entry, National Aquarium, Washington DC

Above: Woodward’s Gardens (1866 – 1891), San Francisco, California

The aquariums I have visited:

  • Great Aquarium, Saint Malo, France

  • Sea Life Centre, Konstanz, Germany

Above: Sea Life, Konstanz, Germany

  • Aquarium of Genoa, Italy

  • Lisbon Oceanarium, Portugal

Above: Oceanarium, Lisbon, Portugal

  • Aquarium Donostia-San Sebastián, Spain

Above: Aquarium Donostia – San Sebastian

  • Cosmocaixa, Barcelona, Spain

Above: Cosmo Caixa, Barcelona, Spain

I am generally not as enthusiastic about aquariums as I am about zoos.

Roadside zoos are found throughout North America, particularly in remote locations.

They are often small, for-profit zoos, often intended to attract visitors to some other facility, such as a gas station.

The animals may be trained to perform tricks, and visitors are able to get closer to them than in larger zoos. 

Since they are sometimes less regulated, roadside zoos are often subject to accusations of neglect and cruelty.

In June 2014 the Animal Legal Defense Fund (ALDF) filed a lawsuit against the Iowa-based roadside Cricket Hollow Zoo for violating the Endangered Species Act by failing to provide proper care for its animals.

Since filing the lawsuit, ALDF has obtained records from investigations conducted by the USDA’s Animal and Plant Health Inspection Services.

These records show that the zoo is also violating the Animal Welfare Act.

Above: Cricket Hollow Zoo, Manchester, Iowa

In modern, well-regulated zoos, breeding is controlled to maintain a self-sustaining, global captive population.

This is not the case in some less well-regulated zoos, often based in poorer regions.

Overall “stock turnover” of animals during a year in a select group of poor zoos was reported as 20% – 25%, with 75% of wild caught apes dying in captivity within the first 20 months.

The authors of the report stated that before successful breeding programs, the high mortality rate was the reason for the “massive scale of importations“.

One two-year study indicated that of 19,361 mammals that left accredited zoos in the US between 1992 and 1998, 7,420 (38%) went to dealers, auctions, hunting ranches, unaccredited zoos and individuals, and game farms.

petting zoo (also called a children’s zoochildren’s farm, or petting farm) features a combination of domesticated animals and some wild species that are docile enough to touch and feed.

In addition to independent petting zoos, many general zoos contain a petting zoo.

Most petting zoos are designed to provide only relatively placid, herbivorous (plants only) domesticated animals, such as sheep, goats, pigs, rabbits or ponies, to feed and interact physically with safety.

This is in contrast to the usual zoo experience, where normally wild animals are viewed from behind safe enclosures where no contact is possible.

A few provide wild species (such as pythons or big cat cubs) to interact with, but these are rare and usually found outside Western nations.

To ensure the animals’ health, the food is supplied by the zoo, either from vending machines or a kiosk nearby.

Food often fed to animals includes grass and crackers and also in selected feeding areas hay is a common food.

Such feeding is an exception to the usual rule about not feeding animals.

Touching animals can result in the transmission of diseases between animals and humans (zoonosis) so it is recommended that people should thoroughly wash their hands before and after touching the animals.

There have been several outbreaks of E. coli, etc.

Above: Petting farm, Berlin Zoological Garden, Berlin, Germany

(Escherichia coli, also known as E. coli, is a kind of bacteria that is commonly found in the lower intestine of warm-blooded organisms. 

Most E. coli strains are harmless, but some can cause serious food poisoning in their hosts, and are occasionally responsible for food contamination incidents that prompt product recalls.

The harmless strains are part of the normal microbiota of the gut and can benefit their hosts by producing vitamin K2 and preventing colonisation of the intestine with pathogenic bacteria, having a mutualistic relationship.

E. coli is expelled into the environment within fecal matter.

The bacterium grows massively in fresh fecal matter under aerobic conditions for three days, but its numbers decline slowly afterwards.)

Above: Low-temperature electron micrograph of a cluster of E. coli bacteria, magnified 10,000 times. Each individual bacterium is oblong shaped.

I have visited petting zoos before, of course.

One I have frequently visited is the one in Seeburgpark (lake castle park), Kreuzlingen, Switzerland.

Above: Tierpark, Seeburgpark, Kreuzlingen, Switzerland

An animal theme park is a combination of an amusement park and a zoo, mainly for entertaining and commercial purposes. 

Marine mammal parks, such as Sea World and Marineland, are more elaborate dolphinariums keeping whales, and containing additional entertainment attractions.

Above: Entry, Marineland, Marineland, Florida

Another kind of animal theme park contains more entertainment and amusement elements than the classical zoo, such as stage shows, roller coasters, and mythical creatures.

Some examples are:

  • Busch Gardens Tampa Bay, Tampa, Florida

  • Disney’s Animal Kingdom, Bay Lake, (near Orlando), Florida 

Above: The Tree of Life, the icon of Disney’s Animal Kingdom

  • Gatorland, Orlando, Florida

  • Flamingo Land, North Yorkshire, England  

  • Six Flags Discovery Kingdom, Vallejo, California

The one park that sticks in my mind that I have visited and that claims to be an animal theme park is Connyland, Lipperswil, between Frauenfeld and Kreuzlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland.

The amusement park, which opened in 1983, is best known for its former dolphinarium and its Patagonian sea lions.

.

By 2000, most animals being displayed in zoos were the offspring of other zoo animals.

This trend, however was and still is somewhat species-specific.

When animals are transferred between zoos, they usually spend time in quarantine, and are given time to acclimatize to their new enclosures which are often designed to mimic their natural environment.

For example, some species of penguins may require refrigerated enclosures.

Guidelines on necessary care for such animals is published in the International Zoo Yearbook (published by the Zoological Society of London (ZSL), a charity devoted to the worldwide conservation of animals and their habitats).

Especially in large animals, a limited number of spaces are available in zoos.

As a consequence, various management tools are used to preserve the space for the genetically most important individuals and to reduce the risk of inbreeding.

Management of animal populations is typically through international organizations, such as the Association of Zoos and Aquariums (AZA) and the European Association of Zoos and Aquaria (EAZA).

Zoos have several different ways of managing the animal populations, such as moves between zoos, contraception, sale of excess animals and euthanization (culling).

Contraception can be an effective way to limit a population’s breeding.

However it may also have health repercussions and can be difficult or even impossible to reverse in some animals.

Additionally, some species may lose their reproductive capability entirely if prevented from breeding for a period (whether through contraceptives or isolation), but further study is needed on the subject.

Sale of surplus animals from zoos was once common and in some cases animals have ended up in substandard facilities.

In recent decades the practice of selling animals from certified zoos has declined. 

A large number of animals are culled each year in zoos, but this is controversial.

A highly publicized culling as part of population management was that of a healthy giraffe at Copenhagen Zoo in 2014.

The Zoo argued that its genes already were well-represented in captivity, making the giraffe unsuitable for future breeding.

There were offers to adopt it and an online petition to save it had many thousand signatories, but the culling proceeded. 

Above: Entry, Copenhagen Zoo, Copenhagen, Denmark

Although zoos in some countries have been open about culling, the controversy of the subject and pressure from the public has resulted in others being closed. 

This stands in contrast to most zoos publicly announcing animal births.

Furthermore, while many zoos are willing to cull smaller and/or low-profile animals, fewer are willing to do it with larger high-profile species.

The position of most modern zoos in Australasia, Asia, Europe and North America, particularly those with scientific societies, is that they display wild animals primarily for the conservation of endangered species, as well as for research purposes and education, and secondarily for the entertainment of visitors.

The Zoological Society of London states in its charter that its aim is “the advancement of zoology and animal physiology and the introduction of new and curious subjects of the animal kingdom“.

It maintains two research institutes, the Nuffield Institute of Comparative Medicine and the Wellcome Institute of Comparative Physiology.

In the US, the Penrose Research Laboratory of the Philadelphia Zoo focuses on the study of comparative pathology (the study of diseases and their causes).

Above: Welcome gate, Philadelphia Zoo, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

The World Association of Zoos and Aquariums produced its first conservation strategy in 1993, and in November 2004, it adopted a new strategy that sets out the aims and mission of zoological gardens of the 21st century.

When studying behaviour of captive animals, several things should however be taken into account before drawing conclusions about wild populations.

Including that captive populations are often smaller than wild ones and that the space available to each animal is often less than in the wild.

Conservation programs all over the world fight to protect species from going extinct, but many conservation programs are underfunded and under-represented.

Conservation programs can struggle to fight bigger issues like habitat loss and illness.

It often takes a lot of funding and long time periods to rebuild degraded habitats, both of which are scarce in conservation efforts.

The current state of conservation programs cannot rely solely on situ (on-site conservation) plans alone, ex situ (off-site conservation) may therefore provide a suitable alternative.

Off-site conservation relies on zoos, national parks, or other care facilities to support the rehabilitation of the animals and their populations.

Zoos benefit conservation by providing suitable habitats and care to endangered animals.

When properly regulated, they present a safe, clean environment for the animals to increase populations sizes.

A study on amphibian conservation and zoos addressed these problems by writing:

Whilst addressing in situ threats, particularly habitat loss, degradation and fragmentation, is of primary importance.

For many amphibian species in situ conservation alone will not be enough, especially in light of current un-mitigatable threats that can impact populations very rapidly such as chytridiomycosis [an infectious fungal disease]. 

Ex situ programmes can complement in situ activities in a number of ways including maintaining genetically and demographically viable populations while threats are either better understood or mitigated in the wild.”

The breeding of endangered species is coordinated by cooperative breeding programmes containing international studbooks and coordinators, who evaluate the roles of individual animals and institutions from a global or regional perspective.

There are regional programmes all over the world for the conservation of endangered species.

In Africa, conservation is handled by the African Preservation Program (APP), in the US and Canada by Species Survival Plan, in Australasia by the Australasian Species Management Program, in Europe by the European Endangered Species Program, and in Japan, South Asia, and South East Asia, by the Japanese Association of Zoos and Aquariums, the South Asian Zoo Association for Regional Cooperation, and the South East Asian Zoo Association.

Above: Logo of the South Asian Zoo Association for Regional Cooperation

Above: Logo of the South East Asian Zoo Association

Besides conservation of captive species, large zoos may form a suitable environment for wild native animals such as herons to live in or visit.

A colony of black crowned night herons has regularly summered at the National Zoo in Washington DC for more than a century.

Some zoos may provide information to visitors on wild animals visiting or living in the zoo, or encourage them by directing them to specific feeding or breeding platforms.

Above: Night heron

The welfare of zoo animals varies widely.

Many zoos work to improve their animal enclosures and make it fit the animals’ needs, but constraints such as size and expense can complicate this. 

The type of enclosure and the husbandry are of great importance in determining the welfare of animals.

Substandard enclosures can lead to decreased lifespans, caused by factors as human diseases, unsafe materials in the cages and possible escape attempts.

However, when zoos take time to think about the animal’s welfare, zoos can become a place of refuge.

There are animals that are injured in the wild and are unable to survive on their own, but in the zoos they can live out the rest of their lives healthy and happy.

In recent years, some zoos have chosen to move out some larger animals because they do not have the space available to provide an adequate enclosure for them.

An issue with animal welfare in zoos is that best animal husbandry practices are often not completely known.

Especially for species that are only kept in a small number of zoos.

To solve this, organizations, like the EAZA and the AZA, have begun to develop husbandry manuals.

Many modern zoos attempt to improve animal welfare by providing more space and behavioural enrichments.

This often involves housing the animals in naturalistic enclosures that allow the animals to express more of their natural behaviours, such as roaming and foraging.

Whilst many zoos have been working hard on this change, in some zoos, some enclosures still remain barren concrete enclosures or other minimally enriched cages.

Sometimes animals are unable to perform certain behaviors in zoos, like seasonal migration or traveling over large distances.

Whether these behaviours are necessary for good welfare, however, is unclear.

Some behaviours are seen as essential for an animal’s welfare whilst others aren’t. 

It is, however, shown that even in limited spaces, certain natural behaviours can still be performed.

A study in 2014 for example found that Asian elephants in zoos covered similar or higher walking distances then sedentary wild populations.

Migration in the wild can also be related to food scarcity or other unfavourable environmental problems.

However, a proper zoo enclosure never runs out of food or water, and in case of unfavourable temperatures or weather animals are provided with shelter.

Heini Hediger was convinced that animals have “a kind of consciousness“. 

It is unthinkable for him not to start from the correctness of this point of view.

In the following, consciousness is understood as knowledge about oneself.

To support his results, Hediger cited an African bird, the honey stalker, as an example, which likes to eat bee larvae. 

Above: Honey stalker

In the normal case, the bird leads a honey badger to a beehive. 

The badger destroys the honeycomb and eats the honey. 

The rest is available to the honey stalker.

Above: Honey badger

But if a human honey collector takes on the task of the badger and hits the tree with a machete, the bird will fly over and lead the human to the nearest beehive.

For Hediger, this behavior can hardly be explained without the idea of ​​an animal consciousness.

In addition, he underscores the correctness of his ideas with an example that ascribes humour or at least a kind of “Schadenfreude” to certain animals. 

A juvenile steppe baboon has been observed repeatedly climbing down from the acacia tree on which it was sitting and under which a pack of wild dogs were resting, jumping around in front of the pack, and finally climbing up the tree again.

This form of “annoying” can hardly be understood without a simple form of empathizing with others, combined with one’s own intention.

Above: Steppe baboon

Above: An acacia tree

Another evidence of the consciousness of certain animals that Hediger shows is the consciousness of one’s own size, which is the most primitive, but also the most important form of self-awareness.

Horned animals in zoos often force their heads through very narrow meshes to get food. 

It is difficult for humans to understand the elegance with which the animals manage to withdraw their heads with the long appendages from the opening.

The conscious use of an animal’s shadow also allows conclusions to be drawn about its consciousness. 

For example, a Chapman mare, who was considered a model mother, positioned her body in such a way that her shadow fell on the foal resting on the ground in extreme summer sunshine.

Animals in zoos can exhibit behaviors that are abnormal in their frequency, intensity, or would not normally be part of their behavioural repertoire.

Whilst these types of behaviours can be a sign of bad welfare and stress, this isn’t necessarily the case.

Other measurements or behavioural research is advised before determining whether an animal performing stereotypical behaviour is living in bad welfare or not. 

Examples of stereotypical behaviors are pacing, head-bobbing, obsessive grooming and feather-plucking.

A study examining data collected over four decades found that polar bears, lions, tigers and cheetahs can display stereotypical behaviors in many older exhibits.

However they also noted that in more modern naturalistic exhibits, these behaviors could completely disappear.

Above: Polar bear

Above: Lioness

Above: Tiger

Above: Cheetah

Elephants have also been recorded displaying stereotypical behaviours in the form of swaying back and forth, trunk swaying or route tracing.

This has been observed in 54% of individuals in UK zoos.

Above: Elephant

However, it has been shown that modern facilities and modern husbandry can greatly decrease or even entirely remove abnormal behaviours.

A study of a group of elephants in Planckendael (Belgium) showed that the older wild-caught animals displayed many stereotypical behaviours.

These elephants had spent part of their lives either in a circus or in other substandard enclosures.

On the other hand, the elephants born in the modern facilities that had lived in a herd their whole life barely displayed any stereotypical behaviors at all. 

The life history of an animal is thus extremely important when analyzing the causes of stereotypical behaviour, as this can be a historical relict instead of a result of present-day husbandry.

Above: Baby elephant, Planckendael Zoo

The influence on a zoological environment on animal’s longevity is not straightforward.

A study of 50 mammal species found that 84% of them actually lived longer in zoos than they would in the wild on average.

On the other hand, some research claims that elephants in Japanese zoos would live shorter than their wild counterparts at just 17 years.

This has been refuted by other studies however.

It is important to acknowledge here that studies might not yet fully represent recent improvements in husbandry.

For example, studies show that captive-bred elephants already have a lower mortality risk then wild-caught ones.

Climatic conditions can make it difficult to keep some animals in zoos in some locations.

For example, the Alaska Zoo had an elephant named Maggie.

She was housed in a small, indoor enclosure because the outdoor temperature was too low.

Above: Sign, Alaska Zoo, Anchorage, Alaska

Some critics and many animal rights activists claim that zoo animals are treated as voyeuristic objects, rather than living creatures, and often suffer due to the transition from being free and wild to captivity.

However, ever since imports of wild-caught animals became more regulated by organizations like CITES and national laws zoos have started sustaining their populations via breeding.

This change started around the 1970s.

Many co-operations in the form of breeding programs have been set up since, for both common and endangered species.

(CITES (shorter name for the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, also known as the Washington Convention) is a multilateral treaty to protect endangered plants and animals.

It was drafted as a result of a resolution adopted in 1963 at a meeting of members of the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN).

The Convention was opened for signature in 1973.

CITES entered into force on 1 July 1975.

Its aim is to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild animals and plants does not threaten the survival of the species in the wild.

It accords varying degrees of protection to more than 35,000 species of animals and plants.

Above: Logo of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora

In order to ensure that the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) was not violated, the Secretariat of GATT was consulted during the drafting process.)

In some countries, feeding live vertebrates to zoo animals is illegal under most circumstances.

The UK Animal Welfare Act of 2006, for example, states that prey must be killed for feeding, unless this threatens the health of the predator.

Some zoos had already adopted such practices prior to the implementation of such policies.

London Zoo, for example, stopped feeding live vertebrates in the 20th century, long before the Animal Welfare Act.

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

Despite being illegal in China, some zoos have been found to still feed live vertebrates to their predators.

In some parks, like Xiongsen Bear and Tiger Mountain Village, live chickens and other livestock were found to be thrown into the enclosures of tigers and other predators.

Live cows and pigs are thrown to tigers to amuse visitors.

Above: Xiongsen Bear and Tiger Mountain Village entry, Guilin, China

Other Chinese parks, like Shenzhen Safari Park, have already stopped this practice after facing heavy criticism.

Above: Shenzhen Safari Park entry

From childhood until his death, Arne Naess spent summers and holidays exploring the mountains east of Bergen, Norway.

Above: Arne Naess (1912 – 2009)

In the late 1930s, when he was in his 20s, Naess built a simple cabin on a remote mountain perch called Tvergastein – so remote that it took him 62 trips with a horse to carry up the timbers.

At 1,500 metres, it was the highest private cabin in Scandinavia and required considerable hiking, snowshoeing or skiing to be reached.

Above: Tvergastein

Despite a cosmopolitan life of global activism, research, writing and teaching, Naess spent much of his adult life in his mountain hideaway, exploring the local flora and fauna, and reading Plato, Aristotle, Spinoza and Gandhi.

Above: Bust of Plato (428 – 348 BCE)

Above: Bust of Aristotle (384 – 322 BCE)

Above: Baruch de Spinoza (aka Benedict Spinoza) (1632 – 1677)

Above: Mahatma Gandhi (1869 – 1948)

He sought to leave a small footprint not only on his beloved mountain but also on the planet Earth – so he ate only vegetables, possessed only necessities and often lived in his cabin without electricity or plumbing and with very little heat.

Why would a distinguished philosopher withdraw from the modern world and even largely from human society?

Naess had fallen in love with his mountain perch.

This love led him to identify himself with every living creature, from fleas to human beings.

He even considered changing his own name to Arne Tvergastein.

We never know what we truly have loved until we lose it.

Edmund Burke pioneered conservative political thought in the wake of the French Revolution.

There were no “conservatives” until all moral, religious, social and political traditions came under attack from the revolutionaries of 1789.

Similarly, there were no environmentalists, ecologists or conservationists until the Industrial Revolution threatened to destroy the remaining wilderness and even familiar rural landscapes.

Just as political conservatives see political change in terms of what is being lost, so many conservationists see economic change in terms of the loss of natural habitats.

No one has been more eloquent or influential in mourning what we have lost to modern commerce, industry and technology than Naess, who once chained himself to a waterfall so that it would not be dammed up.

Above: Edmund Burke (1729 – 1797)

Naess is best known for his concept of “deep ecology“.

Næss cited Rachel Carson’s 1962 book Silent Spring as being a key influence in his vision of deep ecology.

Above: Rachel Carson (1907 – 1964)

Næss combined his ecological vision with Gandhian non-violence and on several occasions participated in direct action.

According to him, most environmentalists aim to promote merely human values, by reducing pollution to protect human health, conserving resources to protect future consumption and preserving a bit of wilderness for recreation.

All of this “shallow ecology“, said Naess, ignores the inherent value of nature quite apart from its effects on human welfare.

Deep ecology holds that not only human beings but all living creatures have a right to live and to flourish.

Naess was appalled by what he saw as the arrogance of human beings who treat the whole of the natural world as nothing more than a woodpile to be used, destroyed or wasted for our own convenience.

Above: Arne Naess

In the Christian Bible, God gives Adam “dominion” over nature.

Above: Michelangelo’s Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Naess rejected this ideal of human domination or even stewardship over the natural world.

As if humans could possibly know enough to “manage” the infinite complexity of nature!

According to Naess, every significant human attempt to manage nature has backfired, revealing our arrogance and ignorance.

Many large dams, for instance, are now being modified or dismantled because of the unforeseen ecological disasters they have created.

Above: Hoover Dam, Arizona

Industrial agriculture has left deserts and dust storms in its wake.

Above: Libyan Desert

Naess wanted human beings to be good citizens of the Earth, not its masters.

As good citizens of planet Earth, said Naess, we ought to be concerned not just with our own parochial human interests but also with the common good of the whole of nature.

What is that common good?

Above: Home

Naess followed the 17th century philosopher Benedict Spinoza in arguing that nature is just another word for God.

Instead of locating spiritual or divine realities apart from or above nature, Naess believed that divinity is just another aspect of nature.

According to Spinoza, the highest human good is the intellectual love of God, which means, said Naess, the loving appreciation of the infinite diversity of life.

Every creature, said Spinoza, including human beings, strives to preserve itself and to actualize all of its powers.

Naess insisted that the common good of nature is the self-realization of every living organism.

Human self-realization uniquely culminates in the capacity to contemplate and to love the totality of nature, of which we are only one small part.

What this means, said Naess, is that human beings approach the divine not by turning away from nature but rather by finding our true home within it.

Although human beings have always attempted to leave our natural homes by voyages to new continents and now even to new planets, Naess insisted that no one can be truly happy except in intimate relation with a particular natural setting.

Thus, Naess rejected modern ideals of globalization, cosmopolitanism and tourism, let alone space travel.

Above: The Solar System

He even fought to keep Norway out of the European Union.

Above: Flag of Norway

Above: Flag of the European Union

He implicitly wanted everyone to follow his own example of a lifelong intimate relation to a particular natural place.

Above: Arne Naess

Naess’ theory of deep ecology and his worship of non-human nature have led other ecologists to call him a mystic, a misanthrope, a fascist and even a Nazi – despite his heroic service resisting the German occupation of Norway.

Above: Flag of Nazism (1920 – 1945)

Because human beings pose a unique threat to pristine nature and perhaps even to the future of life on Earth, some “deep ecologists” are indeed misanthropic.

They argue that we need more disease, war and poverty to reduce human numbers if the natural world is going to survive.

Naess himself agreed that respect for the common good of nature requires a massive reduction in human population to a level of about 100 million, but before Naess became an ecologist he was a disciple of Gandhi’s philosophy of non-violence.

Above: The Collected Works of Mahatma Gandhi

Gandhi, who tolerated poisonous snakes, spiders and scorpions within his own home, extended the principles of non-violence to the whole of nature.

Naess similarly rejected any use of force or coercion to protect nature.

He wanted to reduce human numbers by voluntary family planning.

Despite the radical or even violent implications of his own deep ecology and the malicious rhetoric heaped upon him, Naess was the most peace-loving of activists.

He never once resorted to verbal polemics or abuse.

Instead, he always sought respectful engagement and common ground with his opponents.

Everyone who ever met him agreed that he embodied the peace and goodwill that he sought to bring about in the world.

Above: Arne Naess

As a young man, Naess was traumatized by the experience of looking through a microscope and observing a flea that had jumped into a bath of acid.

Viewing with horror the struggle, the suffering and the death agony of this flea, Naess became a lifelong vegetarian.

His empathetic identification with the suffering flea became a cornerstone of his deep ecology.

Above: Electron micrograph of a flea

Instead of asking human beings to sacrifice our interests on behalf of other creatures, Naess asked us to identify with other creatures, to expand our own “selves” to include the whole of nature.

Through this widening of the self, the protection of nature becomes a kind of enlightened self-interest rather than an altruistic self-sacrifice.

Although he occasionally used the language of rights and duties, Naess much preferred to appeal to beauty and joy.

He did sometimes refer to the “right to life” of every creature, implying our “duty” not to kill them.

Above: Arne Naess

He extended Immanuel Kant’s famous imperative “never to treat a person as a mere means but always also as an end” to our treatment of all living organisms.

However, in general, Naess was not interested in any kind of ethics, which he viewed as little more than moralistic aggression.

He believed that human beings are motivated less by ethical duties than by their understanding of the world.

Above: Immanuel Kant (1724 – 1804)

If we came to see ourselves as just one part of an immense web of life, if we came to see ourselves in nature rather than above it, if we learned to appreciate the complexity and beauty of pristine ecosystems, then we would protect nature out of a feeling of joy rather than a sense of duty.

As a Gandhian pacifist, Naess was reluctant to impose moral, let alone legal, duties on other human beings.

He preferred to teach by his own example of loving tenderness towards all living creatures, great and small.

Hence, his rules about killing always include exceptions:

Never kill another living creature unless you must in order to survive.

He condemns killing for sport but not from hunger.

Although he rejects any explicit ranking of organisms, he does implicitly privilege human life.

Naess is often described or denigrated as a “mystic“.

He did not think that language, let alone philosophical argument, could capture our primordial “awe” in relation to nature.

Ultimately, he was a spiritual thinker who claimed that the human wonder before nature must be cultivated before the elaboration of any ecological ethics.

Naess himself drew upon Spinoza’s pantheism, Buddhism and Gandhian Hinduism in his own spirituality of nature, but he thought that a proper spiritual response to nature could also be found in many other religious traditions.

Above: Statue of Spinoza, Amsterdam, Netherlands, with inscription:
The objective of the state is freedom” 

Above: The Dharma chakra, a sacred symbol which represents Buddhism and its traditions

Above: Prambanan Hindu Temple complex, Java, Indonesia

The word “nature” evokes very different images in different minds, just as the word “God” does.

Nature can connote a nurturing mother, the cycle of life and relations of interdependence – or nature can connote the struggle for survival, predators and prey, and cycles of extinction.

Nature for Naess was ultimately a peaceable kingdom of mutual co-existence and harmony, where, in the biblical vision, “the lion lies down with the lamb“.

Human beings alone, he suggested, are unnatural:

Our overweening arrogance, our out-of-control fertility and our destructive intelligence pose a unique threat to the harmony of nature.

Nature was a garden of paradise until man arrived and overturned the divine order.

Unless human beings return to their proper place as but one creature among infinitely many, nature will be destroyed.

Above: Thomas Cole’s Expulsion from the Garden of Eden

Yet, from another, more Darwinian point of view, nature is not a place of peace or harmony at all:

Every creature is locked into a struggle for survival.

Every creature produces too many offspring.

Every creature kills or is killed.

Natural history is replete with starvation, death by exposure, relentless predation and extinction.

By some accident of random genetic mutation, human beings developed a uniquely powerful combination of intelligence and dexterity, permitting us to become the top predator.

In this view, human culture, technology and urbanization are natural adaptations to our ecological niche, permitting us to dominate and subdue all other organisms.

Above: Charles Darwin (1809 – 1882)

Did human beings ever live in harmony with nature?

Naess and other ecologists have claimed that prehistoric and contemporary hunter-gatherers were able to co-exist with nature, but the fossil record suggests otherwise.

As soon as these hunter-gatherers migrated to America, for example, they hunted to extinction all the large Ice Age mammals.

Human “destructiveness” (if that is what predation is) has always been limited only by human knowledge and abilities.

Above: The Bering Strait land bridge theory map

According to Karl Marx, human beings by nature transform the natural world into something recognizably human:

That is, into a human home.

Above: Karl Marx (1818 – 1883)

According to Arne Naess, human beings should stop transforming nature and start conforming to it.

Are we by nature the masters and possessors of the Earth or are we by nature merely fellow citizens among other creatures?

These are ultimate religious and philosophical questions which are not likely to be resolved any time soon.

Above: Arne Naess

How should we interpret Naess’ distinction between deep and shallow ecology?

Although he rejected an “anthropocentric” perspective on nature (which he calls “shallow ecology“) his own celebration of the joys of communing with nature, of ecological diversity, the flourishing of all species and the harmony of local ecologies – all these reflect distinctively human values.

In other words, both deep and shallow ecology understand and appraise nature in relation to human flourishing.

Shallow ecology values nature only insofar as nature serves material or transient human desires.

Deep ecology values nature insofar as nature serves the spiritual and permanent human desires for the contemplation of the beautiful and sublime, for the wonder of the intellectual complexity of natural order and for humility in the presence of a mysterious gift not created by us.

I see all the moral implications of zoos, the good and the bad.

I will always feel saddened by the notion of caged animals, but if that is all they have ever known, if they would be unable to adapt to the wild because of a life of imprisonment, and if they are treated well, then in the name of preserving the species, I have no moral issue with visiting a zoo.

Above: Work Projects Administration (WPA) poster (1937)

Seeing any animal anywhere, whether it is the hawks that circle the farmer’s field across from our apartment block in Landschlacht, or the cats that seek the shadows of Maltese gardens, or the strays of Eskişehir or Denizli, I feel honoured and privileged to bear witness to all God’s creatures great and small.

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: San Anton Gardens, Attard, Malta Island, Malta

My failing is that, unlike the aforementioned Abela and his diving dog Titti, loyalty from an animal needs to be deserved.

Once helped, you become responsible for that animal.

Responsibility to an animal is akin to that of a child.

Once dependent upon you, they remain your responsibility.

I would love to be a pet provider, but a pet needs not only food and water and waste management, it also needs time and attention and care, again much like a child.

I know I would have been more sad and sympathetic to the tigers of l’Arka ta Noe had we visited them.

Ignorance is bliss.

Soon I will return to the Denizli Otogar.

Perhaps the kitten will be there again.

I hope with all my heart it will be.

I also hope with all my heart that it won’t.

Someone told me it’s all happening at the zoo

I do believe it
I do believe it’s true

It’s a light and tumble journey
From the East Side to the park
Just a fine and fancy ramble
To the zoo

But you can take the crosstown bus
If it’s raining or it’s cold
And the animals will love it if you do
If you do, now

Somethin’ tells me it’s all happening at the zoo

I do believe it
I do believe it’s true

The monkeys stand for honesty
Giraffes are insincere
And the elephants are kindly but they’re dumb
Orangutans are skeptical
Of changes in their cages
And the zookeeper is very fond of rum

Zebras are reactionaries
Antelopes are missionaries
Pigeons plot in secrecy
And hamsters turn on frequently
What a gas, you gotta come and see


At the zoo
At the zoo
At the zoo
At the zoo
At the zoo
At the zoo
At the zoo
At the zoo

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Graeme Garrard and James Bernard Murphy, How to Think Politically / Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel, “At the Zoo

Swiss Miss and the Land of Legends

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Monday 18 July 2022

What makes a great short story?

The sudden unforgettable revelation of character, the vision of a world through another’s eyes, the glimpse of truth, the capture of a moment in time.

All this the short story, at its best, is uniquely capable of conveying, for in its very shortness lies its greatest strength.

The short story can discover depths of meaning in the casual word or action.

It can suggest in a page what could be stated in a volume.

Such is the quality of experience I seek to offer you, in as many and diverse ways that I can, if I can.

For I am still learning to write, still seeking to satisfy readers with sentences that shrink, snap into place, and emerge into the world in a clear economical sharp shape.

Writers learn to write by writing, conscious of style, of diction, of how sentences are formed and information conveyed, how plot is structured and characters created, how detail and dialogue are designed, how stories are spun and dreams woven.

And as I write I discover that writing is done one word at a time, one punctuation mark each moment.

Every word is on trial for its life.

I write for adults, but I treat them as children, for children love imagination with all its kaleidoscopic possibilities.

Travel accounts should take us far from our lives while teaching us about life.

How many rooms there are in the House of Art!

Above: Hundertwasserhaus (Hundred Water House), Wien (Vienna), Österreich (Austria)

It is not a great time in history to be a writer, for too little attention is paid to language, to the actual words and sentences that a writer uses.

Instead we have all been encouraged to have, to form, strong and critical (and often negative) opinions of all that we encounter.

We have been instructed to prosecute or defend writers, as if in a court of law, on charges having to do with the writers’ origins, their racial, cultural, political, religious and class background.

Before a word is read, because so many words are written by so many writers, a writer must be pre-judged worthy of our time and attention long before his language is actually experienced.

In an age that prides itself on insight, tolerance and awareness, we are blind and intolerant and oblivious to whatever lies beyond our own perceptions and experience.

To write, even the most basic of blogs, is to learn to write by rote, by painful practice, by wearisome work, by repeated terrible terrifying trial and error, surprising success and abysmal failure, to create words someone else might admire.

We want information, entertainment, invention, even truth and beauty, and we want it all NOW.

So we concentrate solely on our destined desires, we skim, we skip, we excuse ourselves from effort if the effort requires time and thought.

We dare not even daydream, for every moment we must distract ourselves from wasted time, foolishly forgetting that it is the distraction from thought and contemplation that is truly the waste.

Some folks who travel seek simply to escape the life they know too well by trying to find its familiar luxuries in places unfamiliar.

I am cut from the same cloth these days.

A ten-day vacation on the Black Sea coast and each evening in a hotel.

But I spend more time writing and reading than swimming and drinking, more time in museums than on the beach.

I am still trying to learn from the book that is the world.

Above: Zonguldak, Türkiye

Above: Safranbolu, Türkiye

Above: Amasra, Türkiye

Above: Kastamonu, Türkiye

Above: Sinop, Türkiye

Above: Samsun, Türkiye

Months of globetrotting, years of travel, and seldom a night did Swiss Miss sleep in settings too alien from her settled experience.

I say this not to judge her, but to simply acknowledge that the standards of a woman differ from the standards of a man.

To judge a cat from the perspective of a dog is to misjudge the cat.

To see the world as Heidi Hoi has requires courage, but what a woman is willing to sacrifice differs from that of a man.

Let me not judge her by my own distinct differences, but instead let us see her journey as it was, rather than what we believe it should have been.

Instead let us read of what it could have been, for time and distance blur detail.

Truth is not found in accuracy of detail as much as in the commonality of the human experience.

Ninh Binh to Vinh, Vietnam, Tuesday 26 March 2019

Although largely devoid of beaches, Vietnam’s northern coast boasts mystical scenery, where jagged islands jut out of the sea in their thousands, where one stumbles upon hidden coves, needle-sharp ridges and cliffs of ribbed limestone.

The waters here are patrolled by squadrons of tourist junks seeking unique dramatic views seen by the fleets of other tourist boats.

Karst islands at sea, karst scenery inland.

Colonial buildings and monstrous caves beckon.

The area north of Dong Hoi is one of the poorest in Vietnam and is little developed for tourism.

Above: Flag of Vietnam

However, the mountains brushing the Laos border are home to a number of unique animal species, including the elusive saola ox and the more numerous giant muntjac deer.

Above: Flag of Laos

Above: Saola ox

Above: Giant muntjac deer

Intrepid travellers with their own transport are beginning to venture inland, but the vast majority of tourists either slog their way along the coast determined to dash quickly to their destinations or simply leapfrog this long coastal stretch.

Heidi and her travelling companion zoom along the coast on motorbikes, believing that there is little reason to linger between Sam Son and Vinh, a 140-km, a 2-hour and 54-minute ride.

But landscape deceives, for it is here where legends lurk and linger…..

The Tam Giang Lagoon begins south of Sam Son near the village of Quang Loi, a place of livestock, fowls and fish.

The depth of the Lagoon is, on average, from two to four metres, but in some places it is seven metres deep.

Every year, thousands of tons of seafood, fish and shrimp are collected from this Lagoon.

Although it is a Lagoon, there are nevertheless waves.

For Tam Giang is the intersection of rivers and the mouth to the sea is narrow, so there are many whirlpools, big waves and strong winds that can easily capsize boats, so boats dare not to cross.

Above: Tam Giang Lagoon

Floating markets are one of the features of this largest lagoon in southeast Asia. 

Floating markets usually start at 0400 and end at dawn. 

Not as crowded and diverse as the floating markets in the southwest region of Vietnam, the floating market here mainly sells aquatic products of the Lagoon.

Above: Tam Giang Lagoon

Something about the Lagoon reminds me of Linda Ronstadt’s “Blue Bayou“:

I feel so bad I got a worried mind
I’m so lonesome all the time
Since I left my baby behind
On Blue Bayou

Saving nickels, saving dimes
Working till the sun don’t shine
Looking forward to happier times
On Blue Bayou

I’m going back someday
Come what may
To Blue Bayou


Where the folks are fine
And the world is mine
On Blue Bayou


Where those fishing boats
With their sails afloat
If I could only see


That familiar sunrise
Through sleepy eyes
How happy I’d be

Above: Tam Giang Lagoon

Gonna see my baby again
Gonna be with some of my friends
Maybe I’ll feel better again
On Blue Bayou

Saving nickels, saving dimes
Working till the sun don’t shine
Looking forward to happier times
On Blue Bayou

Above: Tam Giang Lagoon

I’m going back someday
Come what may
To Blue Bayou


Where the folks are fine
And the world is mine
On Blue Bayou


Where those fishing boats
With their sails afloat
If I could only see


That familiar sunrise
Through sleepy eyes
How happy I’d be

Above: Tam Giang Lagoon

Oh, that love of mine
By my side
The silver moon
And the evening tide


Oh, some sweet day
Gonna take away
This hurting inside


Well, I’ll never be blue
My dreams come true
On Blue Bayou

Above: Tam Giang Lagoon

In the 1970s, during the fierce period of the Vietnam War, musician Tran Thien Thanh (1942 – 2005) set the music for a poem by To Thuy Yen and named the song Chieu on Tam Giang Lagoon

The song has a passage:

In the afternoon on Tam Giang Lagoon, I suddenly miss you.

Linda Ronstadt would understand the feeling.

Above: Linda Ronstadt

In Quang Loi, there are folk songs, including the Cotton Dance, and culinary delights like scrambled eggs, wet pork buns and various cakes.

One could linger, but one does not.

Above: Quang Loi

Down the road, down the coast, Quang Linh is a real place, but it is also the name of a person.

Quang Linh (full name: Le Quang Linh , born 1965) is a singer specializing in folk music, especially Hué music. 

In addition, he also sings youth music as well as contemporary music. 

Quang Linh succeeded with the songs: 

  • The old starling bird 
  • Who came to Hué 
  • The homeland 
  • Loving Vietnam 
  • Hair with a ponytail 
  • Ca dao em and me 
  • My friend 

Quang Linh has loved singing since childhood and has been active in Children’s Houses. 

At the age of 19, he decided to enter the artistic path.

Quang Linh first sang as an amateur at the Hue Youth Cultural House and then joined the Shock Band.

In 1990, Quang Linh won first prize for the best voice in the Central region with two songs, “Tuoi Anh Ly” and “Send Hué”.

Lecturer Lo Thanh at Hué Conservatory of Music taught Quang Linh some basic techniques and introduced the singer to the show Vu An Khoa.

Quang Linh became a professional singer and sang throughout the northern provinces, and participated in important roles in music programs. 

He is famous in the Green Wave live show series (1999 – 2005).

In early 1996, Quang Linh was invited to officially collaborate with the Thang Long Music and Dance Theatre in Hanoi.

He also appeared many times on HTV (Ho Chi Ming City) with the programs Musical Bridge, Instead of Words to Say, and other music programmes.

He also appeared on other singers’ live shows as a guest such as: Cam Ly (15 years of singing), Pham Duy (Returning day), and Huong Lan (Life’s grace, a folk song).

Currently, Quang Linh operates both domestically and overseas.

Quang Linh’s name is still attractive today.

He has been invited by many producers to be the jury of major music gameshows.

Above: Quang Linh

Dien Chau district is 260 km from Hanoi and 36 km from Vinh, passed by National Highway 1 and the North – South Railway.

Above: Dien Chau

Passers-by know nothing of the Cuong Temple Festival (13 – 15 February), replete with many activities, such as the ceremony of sitting down, cock fighting, human chess, wrestling, teeter swinging, singing, beauty contests, table tennis, tug-of-war, mountain climbing…..

Leaves me breathless just thinking about it.

Above: Cuong Temple Festival, Dien Chau

Dien Chau is home to many famous wrestlers:

  • Pho Nga, a man who ate very well – 30 pots of rice and three pig’s heads in one meal
  • Nguyen Ngoc Chan also had an appetite – a whole basket of rice with salted eggplant

Legend has it that a honey trader, carrying two jars of honey for a contest, seeing Nguyen lift a buffalo so it could safely wade across the river, immediately gave him his honey and returned home.

Another tale told is that Nguyen once hugged a wrestler from Nghi Loc and threw him out of the ring.

The wrestler gave up his wrestling career.

Many characters from Dien Chau are handed down by folk through stories and legends associated with them. 

These are the people who represent the body and soul of the people of Dien:

Industrious, healthy, optimistic, love of life, love of homeland.

Above: Dien Chau

  • Man Nhuy: His jokes have a gentle and profound satirical nuance. 

His laughter always pointed at corrupt officials and sided with the working people.

(Man reminds me of Nasreddin Hoca, a Sufi philosopher and wise man, from Eskişehir Province, (wherein I presently reside), remembered for his funny stories and anecdotes.

He appears in thousands of stories, sometimes witty, sometimes wise, but often, too, a fool or the butt of a joke.

A Nasreddin story usually has a subtle humour and a pedagogic nature.)

Above: Nasreddin Hoca (1208 – 1285)

  • Co Bo is a mythical character, who represents the God of Fire. 

Legend has it that when night fell, Great-grandfather Bo went to the East, turned his hat upside down into the sea to make a boat, used tree branches as oars, rowed to the sunrise and brought fire to everyone. 

He also punished dirty miserly people by playing pranks on them with fire.

(Could Co Bo have inspired the writers of Doctor Who?

The Face of Boe appeared to be little more than a gigantic humanoid head.

Although he would rarely do more than grunt vocally, he was able to communicate by means of telepathy.

He communicated verbally on at least one occasion.

The Face of Boe had the distinction of being one of the oldest creatures in the known universe.

By the time of his death, he was the oldest creature.

Above: The Face of Boe (Struan Rodger)

In the year 5 billion, the Face of Boe was the sponsor of an event to safely witness the destruction of the Earth by the expansion of the Sun.

The hot water in his room on the platform observing “Earth death” was not working.

The event was sabotaged by Lady Cassandra, but the Face was among the remaining survivors.

Above: Lady Cassandra O’Brien (Zoe Wanamaker)

By 5,000,000,023, the Face of Boe was hospitalised in Ward 26 of the hospital run by the Sisters of Plenitude on New Earth.

Above: The Sisters of Plentitude

By this time, he was the last of Boekind.

He was worshipped in several galaxies.

Above: The Face of Boe

Novice Hame believed the Face of Boe had a claim to godhood.

Above: Novice Hame (Anna Hope)

Apparently dying of old age, the Face summoned the Tenth Doctor to his ward.

When a novice told the Doctor the legend of the Face’s last words — a secret which the Face would impart only to one like himself — the Doctor realised that he fit the description of “the wanderer, the man without a home, the lonely god“.

The Face of Boe eventually recovered, saying that although he had grown tired of the universe, the Doctor had shown him a new way of looking at things.

The Doctor asked about the message, but the Face told him that it could wait for their third and final meeting, and teleported away.

Above: The 10th Doctor (David Tennant), Martha Jones (Freema Agyeman), Novice Hame and the Face of Boe

At some point shortly after, he took Novice Hame (his former nurse) into his service to help her atone for her and her order’s crimes.

When the city of New New York was struck by a highly infectious and universally fatal virus, the Face of Boe was able to protect her by “shrouding her in his smoke“.

With the rest of the surface inhabitants of New Earth dead, only they and those in the undercity, which had been sealed off, were left.

However the city did not have enough power to release those trapped in the undercity and would have lost power completely in time.

Above: New New York, New Earth

To prevent this, the Face of Boe wired himself into the power grid, using his own life energy to keep the basic functions of the undercity running with Hame caring for him to ensure he could continue.

Above: The Undercity, New New York, New Earth

The Face of Boe was a compassionate and selfless being who was willing to give his life for the greater good.

Above: The Face of Boe and the 10th Doctor

The Doctor was ultimately reunited with the Face of Boe one last time during his travels with Martha Jones, in the year 5,000,000,053.

This was the only time the Face of Boe communicated vocally with the Doctor.

Boe revealed his last secret with his dying breath after sacrificing himself to save the city of New New York:

You are not alone.”

The Doctor dismissed this, as he still firmly believed himself the last Time Lord.

When the Doctor later met Professor Yana, who eventually was discovered to be a hidden incarnation of the Master, the Doctor realised the significance of the name “Yana“.

It was an acronym, standing for “You Are Not Alone.“.

Above: Doctor Yana / The Master (Derek Jacobi)

When Davros (the Creator of the Daleks, the Doctor’s main enemy) asked the Doctor “How many have died in your name?“, the Face of Boe was among those he remembered.)

Above: Davros (Julian Bleach)

Perhaps that is the ultimate message of Doctor Who, perhaps that is the true lesson of travel:

We are not alone and, as such, we have responsibilities to both ourselves and others.

  • Chem’s real name was Nguyen Ngoc Thu, but the entire Nho Lam commune called him Chem. 

Chem had more health than people. 

Stories circulated about him often associated with his participation in patriotic movements. 

Above: Dien Chau

He lived in the second half of the 19th century, having participated in the Giap Tuat Movement of 1874 and the Can Vuong Movement of 1885.

Above: Signing of the 1874 Tiger Pact (Treaty of Peace and Alliance)

Above: The capture of Ham Nghi, 1887

  • Cha Van was from Trung Phuong village, now in Dien Minh commune. 

He was a man of conscience, who seeing the right thing to do, had the guts and the wisdom to make many powerful people afraid of him. 

There are many stories about him. 

Once, he faced the chief of Truong Son village who used to bully good people, making him beg for mercy.

In addition, this place is also associated with the legend of My Chau – Trong Thuy:

Local lore has it that this is where An Duong Vuong used a sword to kill My Chau, while Trieu Da and his son Trong Thuy were pursuing her troops.

An Duong Vuong (real name Thuc Phan) was the founder of Au Lac, the second state in Vietnamese history after the state of Van Lang.

Above: Statue of An Duong Vuong (r. 257 – 179 BCE), Ho Chi Minh City

Dai Viet Su Ky Toan Thu (Da Viet’s History Book) wrote:

Above: Cover of Dai Viet Su Ky Toan Thu, 1697

Hung Vuong had a beautiful daughter named My Nuong. 

Above: My Nuong

An Duong Vuong heard the news and sent an envoy to propose marriage. 

Vuong wanted to get married, but My Nuong’s father said: 

Thuc wants to marry our country. 

Unable to marry My Nuong, Vuong became angry and told his descendants to destroy Van Lang and take over the country. 

Thuc Vuong’s nephew, Thuc Phan, several times brought troops to fight Van Lang. 

But Hung Vuong with good generals and soldiers defeated the Thuc army. 

Hung Vuong said:

I have divine power, isn’t Thuc afraid?” 

But he just revelled in feasting without worrying about the military. 

Therefore, when the Thuc army moved to fight Van Lang, King Hung was still in a drunken state. 

When Thuc’s army approached, King Hung turned and ran away and jumped into the river to commit suicide. 

The General surrendered. 

In the 1st year of his reign [257 BCE], the King conquered Van Lang and changed the country name to Au Lac.”

Above: Tuong Hung Vuong, Tao Dan Park, Ho Chi Minh City

Frankly, I don’t know nor need to know the exact time things happened.

Suffice that they did.

In the same period, in China, Qin Shi Huang merged six countries after years of war in the Warring States period. 

He continued his ambition to invade Bach Viet, the land of the Vietnamese tribes in present-day southern China and northern Vietnam. 

The invading army of the Qin Dynasty led by Do Thu captured many lands of Vietnam and made them Chinese territory. 

When entering the northeastern territory of Au Lac, the Qin army encountered the long-term resistance of the Vietnamese led by Thuc Phan.

In 218 BCE, Qin Shi Huang mobilized 50,000 troops divided into five divisions to conquer Bach Viet. 

To advance to the South, going deep into Au Lac land, the first army led by General Su Loc had a canal dug connecting the Luong River to carry food. 

Thanks to this, the ruler Tu Thu killed the chief Dich Hu Tong, occupied the land and entered Lac Viet. 

Above: Qin Shi Huang, the first Emperor of China (259 – 210 BCE)




On the other side of the front line, An Duong Vuong was revered by the Lac generals as a joint leader in command of this resistance. 

Sending troops deep into Au Lac land, Vuong led his people to fight the enemy. 

Wherever the Qin army went, Au Lac people practised a scorched earth strategy. 

The Qin army fought for many years, Do Thu organized an ineffective attack and annihilation, gradually falling to a serious food shortage. 

When the Qin army was exhausted due to lack of food, the Au Lac army and people commanded by Vuong began to go into battle.

The Qin army could neither advance nor retreat as they were surrounded by Au Lac people. 

Vuong’s army made a surprise attack and used bows and crossbows to attack the Qin army. 

At this time, Do Thu hesitated, not knowing how to seize the opportunity, died in this battle. 

Losing their master, the Qin army panicked and opened a way to flee to the country. 

The historical record of Sima Thien describes the state of the Qin army at that time as follows:

Stationed in useless land.

Can’t advance, can’t withdraw. 

Men wear armor, women have to carry, the suffering cannot live. 

People hang themselves on trees along the way. 

The dead look at each other.

Above: Symbols of China

According to Hoai Nam Tu, General Do Thu was killed, the Qin army was slaughtered in hundreds of thousands, and the Qin country had to take exiled prisoners to supplement the army.

After nearly 10 years of resistance war, the people of Vietnam gained independence. 

Vuong consolidated and rebuilt the country.

Above: Bronze arrows at Co Loa Citadel

After the victory over the Qin army, Vuong’s reputation echoed throughout the region. 

One of Van Lang’s leaders, Cao Lo, helped Vuong build Co Loa Citadel and intercontinental crossbows (which could shoot many arrows in one shot).

Above: The divine crossbow

In order to strengthen the military defense, Vuong had his army and people build Co Loa Citadel day and night, equipping the citadel with many fearsome weapons. 

He ordered his subordinates to train tens of thousands of soldiers day and night to practice crossbow shooting.  

Au Lac’s bow set at that time was famous everywhere as invincible, compared with the horsemen of the Qin Dynasty, the intercontinental crossbow became the invincible weapon of Au Lac country.

According to legend, the citadel was built many times but never fell. 

Above: Map of Co Loa Citadel

The book Kham Viet Su Thong Giam Cuong:

Above: Kham Viet Su Thong Giam Cuong

Vuong had Cao Thong help him, he invented a crossbow, killed tens of thousands with one shot, shot three times and killed three thousand. 

An Duong Vuong has a daughter named My Chau, seeing that Trong Thuy was handsome, she immediately fell in love. 

Later, Trong Thuy seduced My Chau to ask to see the magic crossbow.

My Chau showed it. 

Trong Thuy broke the crossbow lever, and then immediately sent someone to send the news to Trieu Da. 

Trieu Da brought his army to attack

When the Trieu army arrived, An Duong Vuong took out his crossbow to shoot like before, but the crossbow was broken! 

Vuong’s army ran away. 

Above: Statue of Emperor Trieu Da (257 – 137 BCE), Nam Viet Vuong Temple, Da Thanh, China




Today, this historical sample has been listed as one of the earliest types of spy wars in Vietnamese history.

The story of My Chau with the story Spreading goose feathers is the earliest found in Linh Nam Chic Quai (Strange stories in the Land of Vietnam). 

This book specializes in recording ghost stories, most of which are just legends, not real history. 

The date of this book is uncertain.

Above:  Linh Nam Chic Quai

On 7 March, an old man from the east suddenly came to the gate of the city and lamented: 

When will this city be built?” 

Vuong joyfully welcomed him into the palace, saluted, and asked: 

I have built this citadel many times, it has been destroyed by many times, it took a lot of effort, but it failed, so what’s the excuse?” 

The old man replied: 

There will be an envoy from Thanh Giang who will come with the King to build a successful new project.” 

Above: Co Loa Citadel, Hanoi

The next day, Vuong went to the east door to wait, when he suddenly saw a golden tortoise from the east, floating on the water, speaking fluently in human language, claiming to be Thanh Giang, a messenger, knowing about Heaven and Earth, yin and yang, ghosts and spirits. 

Happily the King said:

“That’s what the old man told me in advance.” 

Then the procession proceeded into the city, the tortoise was invited to sit on the throne, and was asked why the city could not be built. 

The golden tortoise replied: 

The spirit in this mountain is the son of a previous king, who wants to avenge the country.

There is a rooster living for a thousand years, that turns into a leprechaun and is hidden in That Dieu Mountain.

There is a ghost in the mountain, a spirit.

The musician of the previous dynasty was buried here.

Besides, there is an inn for visitors, the owner is named Hgo Khong, there is a chicken that is the residual energy of ghosts.

When crossing the street to spend the night at the inn, the ghosts transform into various forms to do harm.

So many people die because of this.

Now, the white rooster wants to marry the innkeeper’s daughter.

If the rooster can be killed, the devil will be suppressed, and love will gather yin energy.

The city will be built.

Above: Turtle statue, Cuong Temple

The golden turtle told the King to be a traveller staying at the inn, leaving the golden turtle above the door frame. 

The innkeeper said: 

This shop has goblins, the night often kills people.

It’s not dark today, please go quickly, don’t stay.” 

Vuong smiled and said: 

Life and death have a destiny, the devil can’t do anything, I am not afraid.” 

At night, the demons outside came in, shouting: 

Who is here, why don’t you open the door?” 

The golden turtle shouted: 

If you close the door, what will you do?” 

The devil then transformed into hundreds of thousands of forms, trying to threaten in thousands of directions, but in the end, he could not. 

By the time the rooster crowed in the morning, the ghosts had dispersed. 

The golden tortoise with the King chased the ghosts to That Dieu Mountain, but they disappeared. 

Vuong then returned to the shop. 

The next morning, the innkeeper sent someone to pick up the expected dead body at the inn for burial.

Seeing that Vuong was still smiling and laughing, he prostrated himself and said: 

“If you can do that, you must be a saint, so please give me magic medicine to save the people’s livelihood.”

Vuong told him: 

If you kill a white chicken and sacrifice it to the gods, all the ghosts will disappear.”

The innkeeper obeyed.

 

The King then ordered a dig in That Dieu Mountain, found many ancient musical instruments and bones, burnt them to ashes and poured them into the river. 

It was almost dark.

Vuong and the golden tortoise went up to Viet Thuong Mountain to see that the ghost had turned into a six-legged owl and had flown to a sandalwood tree.

The golden turtle, turned into a black rat, followed, biting the owl’s leg.

The citadel was built in half a month and finished. 

That citadel is more than a thousand zhang wide, twisted like a spiral, so it is called Loa Thanh, also known as Tu Long Thanh, the Tang people called it Kunlun Citadel, presumably because it was very tall. 

Above: Remnants of Co Loa Citadel, Hanoi

The golden tortoise stayed for three years, then left. 

The King thanked him and said:

Thanks to the gods, the city has been built.

Now, if there is an enemy outside, what can we do to fight it?” 

The golden tortoise replied: 

The fortunes of the country are in decline, and the peace of the communes is due to the destiny of Heaven.

The King can cultivate virtue and prolong luck.

What the King wishes, I have no regrets”. 

Then he took off his claws and gave in to the King and said: 

Use this as a crossbow, and shoot at the enemy, and you will not have to worry about them.” 

Finally, the golden tortoise returned to the East Sea (Vietnamese for East China Sea). 

The King again ordered Cao Lo to make a crossbow, using the claws to make it, called Linh Quang Kim Qua Than Co.

Later, King Trieu sent troops to invade the South.

King An Duong fought against them. 

Vuong shot the magic crossbow.

Trieu’s army lost a lot of men.

Trieu sued for peace. 

Vuong married his daughter, My Chau, to Trieu’s son, Trong Thuy. 

Trong Thuy coaxed My Chau to let her see the magic crossbow and then secretly made another crossbow, lying that he was going to the North to visit his father, saying: 

The love between husband and wife cannot be forgotten.

The meaning of mother and father cannot be abandoned.

I am going back to visit my father now.

If the time comes when the two countries are at odds, north and south are separated, I will look for you again.

What will be my sign?” 

My Chau replied:

“The fate of a daughter, if I meet the scene of leaving leaves, it will be extremely painful.

I have the goose feather brocade shirt I often wear.

Wherever I go, I will tear off the feathers and sprinkle them at the crossroads to make a sign, so I can save you and we can be together.

Trong Thuy brought the gods back to the country. 

The momentum was jubilant, so he sent troops to fight. 

An Duong Vuong trusted his magic crossbow, still calmly played chess, smiled and said: 

Isn’t Trieu afraid of the magic crossbow?” 

Above: Chinese chess

Quan Tu approached, Vuong took up the crossbow, saw that he was lost and ran away. 

Vuong put My Chau behind the horse and they ran together to the South. 

Trong Thuy followed the goose feathers My Chau scattered behind her and chased them.

An Duong Vuong ran to the shore.

It was the end.

No boat passed, so he cried: 

Heaven harmed me, where is Thanh Giang’s envoy?

Hurry up and save me“. 

The golden turtle appeared on the water, shouting: 

The one behind the horse is the enemy!” 

Vuong then drew his sword to cut down My Chau.

My Chau made a vow: 

“I am a girl.

If you have a rebellious heart to plot against your father, you will die when you die.

If someone’s loyalty is deceived, you will die.

All will turn into pearls to wash away the grudge.” 

My Chau died at the edge of the pool.

Blood flowed into the water.

Clams turned into pearls. 

It is said that that place is Dien Chau. 

Trong Thuy arrived.

Only the body of My Chau remained. 

Trong Thuy hugged his wife’s body and brought it to be buried in Loa Thanh.

Her body turned into jade. 

Above: Jade stone

After My Chau died, Trong Thuy mourned endlessly.

When he went to take a bath, he thought he saw the figure of My Chau, so he plunged into the well and died. 

Later, people searched for pearls in the East Sea and washed them with the water from this well.

Regarding this incident, the historian Ngo Si Lien (1400 – 1498), in the Dai Viet Su Ky Toan Thu, commented:

Above: Dai Viet Su Ky Toan Thu

Is the story of the golden turtle believable? 

The story of the god descending to the land, the story of stone talking, is possible. 

Because God’s work is based on people, relying on things to speak. 

The country is about to prosper, the gods come down to see the virtues. 

The kingdom is about to be lost and the gods come to judge crimes. 

So sometimes the god descends but flourishes, sometimes the god descends and dies.

 

An Duong Vuong built the citadel without thought for the people’s strength, so the god sent the golden turtle to warn him.

Wasn’t it because of the resentment of the people that it became like that? 

But that’s still pretty good. 

As he was worried about future disaster and begged a god, his own heart was already aroused. 

Once your own heart sprouts, then the heavens die accordingly, so why did God sow disaster?

The golden tortoise poured out its sacred hoof and said it could repel the enemy, is that a disaster? 

For Vuong it certainly was. 

So isn’t it a god that follows people and acts? 

If there is no plea to the golden turtle, just follow one’s morals, maybe the national unity will not last long? 

As for the story of My Chau sprinkling goose feathers showing the way, it is unlikely. 

According to historical records, An Duong Vuong’s death was due to the magic crossbow being changed, Trieu Viet Vuong’s death because his hat lost his dragon’s claws.

They were all borrowed words to make things become sacred. 

Great, the defense of the country against the enemy has its own morals.

If the country is righteous, many people will help.

But if the country is prosperous, because it is unethical, few people will help, but the country will lose, and not because of these things made sacred.

They had left things…..

Unsettled.

Heidi was free to do as she would, but she longed for companionship.

Not that her travelling companion from Argentina wasn’t a delight to travel with, but he liked men in the manner in which she liked men, and companionship without physical intimacy does not always suffice for a young woman.

Above: Flag of Argentina

Her Mumbai boyfriend and her had harsh words for one another.

He had not trusted her.

She had not given him a reason to do so.

Trust is necessary in any relationship, but in a long distance one it is essential.

One has to assume there is love and commitment.

One has to hope that both are willing to work on the relationship.

There is no easy way to build that trust, no easy way to maintain it.

But, despite the division, text messages drifted like goose feathers in the wind.

There was no way to know if they would be received as intended.

There was so much she wished to share with him, so much that needed to be said, so many stories to tell.

People see only details, isolated, unimportant specifics, which for them contain the essence and all the importance of that instance, but in our heads, all those details become mixed up and overlap, thus creating a rich and interesting, unproductive and intangible chaos.

The difficulty with long distance relationships is that everything is alluded to, but nothing is clearly seen, nothing is explicitly said.

Everything changes into something else, including love.

For some partners, intimacy is craved, constantly.

If you can’t be with the one you love, love the one you’re with.

Some folks believe that you can be committed to a relationship while maintaining casual sexual contact with other partners.

Others expect monogamy regardless of the distance that separates.

Women are often offered the opportunity.

Men seize the opportunity if the offer is accepted.

Some folks can separate sex from love.

Others cannot.

As to the difficulties between couples outside of my own relationship, I can only speculate.

For Heidi, on a motorcycle, wind caressing her hair through the gaps in her helmet, sun warm upon her face, her mind focused upon the dangers the murderous highways threatened, thoughts of Mumbai could be forgotten for a time.

Dien Chau is a district with many traditional craft villages. 

Some famous craft villages:

  • bronze casting in Yen Thinh hamlet

  • blacksmithing in Nho Lam
  • Van Phan fish sauce
  • tuong singing in Ly Nhan
  • Sand Dunes (Dien Thap): Casting copper, cast iron household appliances, making gongs and items used at worship
  • Nhan Trai (Dien Xuan): Vegetable growing village
  • Phuong Lich (Dien Hoa): Raising silkworms, weaving fabrics, making silk

  • Thanh Bich, Trang Thung: Building boats
  • Dien Ky: Mainly the profession of casting plowshares
  • Nho Lam: Iron ore refining, forging, basket weaving

The craft villages build:

  • mills
  • braid hammocks
  • knitting equipment
  • weaving fabrics
  • knitting baskets
  • carpentry
  • hats

  • Poetry of Dien Chau:

Two Vai shoulder burden
Tomb Da Hiep means hardship and contempt
River Bung flows forever love
Cuong Temple stands an eternal mirror
Hon Ngu sea to the horizon
The bright green fence door in the central region
Listen to the song “Visit Lua Huu Thung”
Abundantly Trong Tao sings along with the countryside
Have a luxuriant exam season
The valedictorian of the Van Khue label is handed down
Fresh fish fills the boat
The kite flute is full of wind, the Quyen bird sings happily

Celebrities include:

  • Heroic soldier of Quang Tri Citadel, Le Ba Duong
    • Author of the poem “Beside the Thach Han River
    • Initiated the festival of releasing lanterns on the Thach Han River on 27 July every year in memory of the soldiers of the Revolutionary Army.
    • He sacrificed himself in the Battle of 81 Days and Nights.

Above: Le Ba Duong (left)

  • Poet Tran Huu Thung
    • Tran Huu Thung (1923 – 1999) was born in Dien Chau, Nghe An. 
    • Joined the Viet Minh in 1944.
    • During the resistance war against the French, he was a cultural officer and propaganda officer and then in charge of the interregional arts and cultural branch. 
    • He began writing poetry and folk songs from that time. 
    • Has the style of a folk poet. 
    • Poetry for him was just a means of work.
    • Wrote to praise victories, popularize policies and reflect the life of resistance farmers. 
    • Simple words, honest feelings, universal. 
    • Was not very interested in what we now call private lyricism
    • He did not talk about himself. 
    • He was not happy about private matters. 
    • Rather, his heart was happy or sad with the luck of the country and the people.

  • Poet-musician Nguyen Trong Tao
    • Nguyen Trong Tao (1947 – 2019) was a poet, musician, journalist, book cover painter, former editor of Tho newspaper, and author of collections of poems and poems such as: 
      • Dong Dao for Adults
      • Nuong Than
      • The World Without Moon
      • The Way of the Stars (The Song of Dong Loc)
      • and the songs
        • Quan Ho village is my hometown
        • The song of the countryside river
        • The eyes of the boat are horizontal

Above: Nguyen Trung Tao

Nguyen Trong Tao was born in 1947 in a Confucian family of Truong Khe village, Dien Hoa commune, Dien Chau district, Nghe An province.

In 1969, he joined the army.

In 1976, he was sent to Hanoi by the General Department of Politics to join the Military Writing Camp and then entered Nguyen Du University of Literature.

He attempted suicide with two handguns shot to his head on 11 November 1981.

Nguyen Trong Tao composed his first poem at the age of 14, composed his first song at the age of 20, published his first collection of poems (Early Morning Love) in 1974.

By 2008, he had published nearly 20 books, including poetry, literature, music, criticism and essays, and had won many literary and artistic awards.

Above: Nguyen Trong Tao

Dien Chau district is considered to be the pearl of the province of Nghe An tourism. 

  • The Temple of Cuong:

In 208 BCE, defeated by Trieu Da, Thuc An Duong Vuong fled with princess My Chau to Cua Hien Beach, Dien Trung commune, Dien Chau district.

The god Kim Quy appeared and said:

The enemy is behind your back.”

He drew his sword to kill My Chau’s daughter and then committed suicide at the foot of Mo Da Mountain. 

The people built a temple there. 

Above: Cuong Temple

Mo Da Mountain stands in the distance like a giant peacock dancing, its wings spread to other mountains, the righteous head is the location of An Duong Vuong Temple, called Cong Temple, by the locals.  

Cuong Temple is built in the shape of a triangle, with three buildings: Upper, Middle and Lower, surrounded by many luxuriant old trees, looking very ancient and sacred. 

The temple is located on National Highway 1A in Dien An commune, about 30 km from Vinh City.

Cuong Temple still has the legendary well where the water is very clear and clean.

Above: Cuong Temple

  • Cua Hien:
    • North of the foot of Mo Da mountain is Cua Hien Beach. 
    • There is a shrine to My Chau. 
    • Cua Hien Beach is a relatively unspoiled beach.
    • There are many rocks jutting out like a sea fish, so it is called Ngu Hai Rock Beach, in which there is a very high, large and flat stone that resembles a chessboard.
      • The locals call it Da Ban Island
    • This is the only area of Nghe An ​​that does not have the hot southwest wind in the summer.

  • Cao Xa Long Cuong:
    • Actually, this is a large oyster field in the territory of two villages of Huong Cai and Tien Ly, extending from the south foot of Mo Da Mountain to Ong Phung River. 
    • The sea waves hit the shells for a long time and piled up, forming high dunes, up to five metres deep. 
    • The Long Cuong Dragon Mound runs long and high near the coast, its length occupies about 2/3 of Dien Chau district.

  • Dien Thanh Beach:
    • A beach located near Dien Chau junction and along National Highway 1, this is a wide beach, with gentle sand and clear blue water. 
    • Dien Thanh beach is about 5 km north of Cuong Cua Hien Temple. 
    • There is a church of the Cao Ba family with the legends of the ancestors who went to the clouds, rode the wind to save seafarers, and led the people around the area to fight the Chinese invaders.

  • Xuan Duong Lake:
    • Xuan Duong Dam (Bara Dam in French after the French built the dam), is a very large lake divided by the mountain ranges of Ru De and Ru Chach and Ru Ba Chang, in Dien Phu commune. 
    • This is the main source of water supply for communes in the south of Dien Chau. 
    • The dam and the water opening and closing system built in the French period is also known as the Column of the House
    • The dam gate is solidly built of green stone located between two mountains in the Ruch and Ru Ba Chang mountain ranges. 
    • During the anti-American resistance war, this area suffered many bombs and bullets. 
    • The US was determined to break the dam, but could not because the dam was protected by two mountains.
    • The remnants of the mountain carry the scars of many bomb craters. 
    • Around the lake are many pine forests and ancient trees that have been kept for many years. 
    • There are many charming caves and ravines that make people’s hearts flutter.

  • Len Hai Vai:
    • Len Hai Vai is also known as Luong Kien Son, because standing from afar the mountain looks like a brave man. 
    • Lord Trinh Tinh Vuong called this mountain Maitreya
    • In the mountain there are many caves.
    • Today, Hai Vai Cave still retains its ancient features and is associated with many historical events.

  • There is a legend that the mandarin Khanh Ly Hau Nguyen Trung Y, became an official of the Le Dynasty. 
    • When Gia Long ascended the throne, he did not obey him, returning to Len Hai Vai to teach in a cave. 
    • Many of his students became talented.
    • Later that cave was called Than Dong Cave.

  • Bung Giang Thu Nguyet:
    • Bung River originates from a lagoon in Van Hoi commune that flows to Phung Xa village, gradually widening to form a river. 
    • In the autumn, the moon is bright, the river surface is calm, the light shines on the surface of the water, forming thousands of sparkling silver trays, erotic.

  • Church of the Vu Dai Ton family in Dong Xuong village:
    • Recognized as a cultural and historical relic in 2013.
    • It is the place where the governor Tham Dung Nghia served the General Vu Trung Luong and 11 dukes of the family.

  • The Nha Le River is an ancient waterway, opened during the reign of King Le Dai Hanh, with the purpose of transporting military supplies from the capital Hoa Lu to the foot of the Deo Ngang border.

  • Co Am Pagoda was built in the mid 15th century. 
    • Initially, there was only a small temple for people to worship, so it was called Son Am Tu
    • At the end of the Later Le Dynasty, the people moved the pagoda to the foot of the mountain and renamed it Huong Phuc Tu
    • However, during that time, Dien Minh village faced many inexplicable spiritual risks, so in the reign of King Minh Mang XI, the pagoda was moved to its old location with the name Co Am Tu as it is today.

So many legends unknown to those who speed by.

For stories take time to be told.

And time and money are precious commodities that those who travel dare not waste.

One does not hop on a bus, take the train or ride a motorcycle to travel slow.

Though a motorcyclist sees far more than those travellers boxed inside an automobile, bus or train, nonetheless, speed kills perception.

The need for constant caution does not allow the mind to wander, to gather wool, to contemplate in silence the wonders of the world that surround the traveller.

But, in fairness, the world is a vast place to explore and few (if any) have unlimited supplies of time and money at their disposal.

I cannot condemn Heidi for opting to travel by motorbike, for certainly the feel of the open air upon her face and the purr of the motor and the liberty away from bus and train schedules, the freedom to sit upon a moving vehicle without having to care about your interactions with others inside the same enclosed space, to be outdoors without having to expend as much energy and time that bicycling or hiking require, is certainly an attractive way to travel.

I am reminded of the 1995 film Sabrina (with Harrison Ford, Greg Kinnear and Julia Ormond):

Sabrina: [laughs to herself] It’s an incredible airplane – it’s beautiful. I’ve never seen anything like it.

Linus Larrabee: Ah, yes.

[returns to reading his work papers]

Sabrina: Don’t you ever look out the window?

Linus Larrabee: When do I have time?

Sabrina: What happened to all that time we saved taking the helicopter?

Linus Larrabee: [lightheartedly] I’m storing it up.

Sabrina: [seriously] No, you’re not.

Above: Sabrina Fairchild (Julia Ormond) and Linus Larrabee (Harrison Ford), Sabrina (1995)

Let me look myself in the mirror as I write these words.

Though I might have travelled differently than Heidi did – I have never been comfortable with motorcycles or with the stress of driving any vehicle – I can in no way say for certain whether I would have known at the time of her travels to linger in the places Heidi passed by.

I cannot fault her for focusing on her daily destinations, for such is the consequence of wheels beneath us:

The destination – to arrive alive – invariably takes precedence over the potential beauty and experience of the journey itself.

I will simply say that it is a pity that life always has an expiry date, that our lives are generally restricted to the time and money we possess, that all that we could see we cannot because of these limitations.

Above: Wyatt (Peter Fonda) and Billy (Dennis Hopper), Easy Rider (1969)

Of course, another issue is language.

Legends are best revealed in the language from whence they were created.

The Old Testament, especially the first five books (Genesis, Exodus, Leviticus, Numbers and Deuteronomy), is far more enriching a read if read in the original Hebrew.

Above: The Malmesbury Bible

The Qu’ran is far more beautiful in its original Arabic than in any other translation available today.

Above: The Qu’ran

So too, perhaps, the literature and legends of Vietnam can only be understood and fully loved if approached in the Vietnamese language.

Still just the hint of the legends that lie on the road between Ninh Binh to Vinh leave me with the longing to create stories based on those legends.

Above: Ninh Binh City

Above: Images of Vinh

So many questions:

  • What were the “many inexplicable spiritual risks” that Co Am Pagoda faced?
  • What would compel a mandarin to go live and teach in a cave?
  • How and why did the Cao Bo family ancestors do what they did?
  • Why does the hot southwest wind not blow upon Cua Hien Beach?
  • What and when was the Battle of 81 Days and Nights?
  • Beyond the legends, what kind of people were Trieu Da, An Duong Vuong, and, especially, My Chau?

I am a troubled man, much like the Qin army, “stationed in useless land, can’t advance, can’t withdraw“.

So many stories lie beneath the legends.

So much that needs to be told.

If only I had the time…..

Heidi and her travelling companion did not have the time to research, to reflect, to rest, to relax.

Get to Vinh, find the hotel, then explore.

Priorities, man.

But let me not paint a picture black of her experience, for the open road is a powerful thing, seductive, sensual, much like the woman Heidi herself.

Instead, think on the freedom of the highway, of being not tied to schedules of others, of being Queen of her own fate.

Not knowing about Dien Chau she needed not care about Dien Chau.

Dien Chau:

Just another name upon just another signpost.

She may never know the legends of which I write, but a highway is like that.

It is merely a ribbon of road, a way between where you were and where you would like to be.

It has no conscience nor consciousness, no memory nor remorse.

It simply is.

Pickin’ up the pieces of my sweet shattered dream
I wonder how the old folks are tonight
Her name was Ann and I’ll be damned if I recall her face
She left me not knowin’ what to do


Carefree highway, let me slip away on you
Carefree highway, you seen better days
The mornin’ after blues from my head down to my shoes


Carefree highway, let me slip away
Slip away on you


Turnin’ back the pages to the times I love best
I wonder if she’ll ever do the same
Now the thing that I call livin’ is just bein’ satisfied
With knowin’ I got no one left to blame


Carefree highway, got ta see you my old flame
Carefree highway, you seen better days
The mornin’ after blues from my head down to my shoes


Carefree highway, let me slip away
Slip away on you


Searchin’ through the fragments of my dream-shattered sleep
I wonder if the years have closed her mind
I guess it must be wanderlust or tryin’ to get free
From the good old faithful feelin’ we once knew


Carefree highway, let me slip away on you
Carefree highway, you seen better days
The mornin’ after blues from my head down to my shoes


Carefree highway, let me slip away
Slip away on you
Let me slip away on you


Carefree highway, got ta see you my old flame
Carefree highway, you seen better days
The mornin’ after blues from my head down to my shoes

Carefree highway, let me slip away
Slip away on you

Yesterday, her own and that of the nation she is travelling through, are whispers from the past.

Down the road is a potential promise.

Get your motor runnin’
Head out on the highway
Looking for adventure
In whatever comes our way

Yeah, darlin’ gonna make it happen
Take the world in a love embrace
Fire all of your guns at once
And explode into space

I like smoke and lightnin’
Heavy metal thunder
Racing with the wind
And the feeling that I’m under

Yeah, darlin’ gonna make it happen
Take the world in a love embrace
Fire all of your guns at once
And explode into space

Like a true nature’s child
We were born
Born to be wild
We can climb so high
I never wanna die

Born to be wild
Born to be wild

Get your motor runnin’
Head out on the highway
Looking for adventure
In whatever comes our way

Yeah, darlin’ gonna make it happen
Take the world in a love embrace
Fire all of your guns at once
And explode into space

Like a true nature’s child
We were born
Born to be wild
We can climb so high
I never wanna die

Born to be wild
Born to be wild

Vinh awaits with museums and temples and monuments, with a river and a park.

Maybe we will find legends waiting for us there.

And maybe we will make them our own.

Above: Vinh

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Ivo Andric, Signs by the Roadside / Stephen Blake, Loving Your Long Distance Relationship / Gordon Lightfoot, Carefree Highway / Francine Prose, Reading like a Writer / Linda Ronstadt, Blue Bayou / Steppenwolf, Born to Be Wild

The King’s Game / The Queen’s Gambit

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Wednesday 6 July 2022

On a typical pandemic afternoon, thousands of noncombatants watched from the sidelines as their General ordered his troops across the battlefield and became locked in a fierce duel with the enemy.

At one point the General berated himself for a tactical misstep that cost have cost his side the high stakes conflict.

Then he smiled and began outmaneuvering his foe.

I can’t lose.“, Hikaru Nakamura (32) said to the exultant onlookers.

Victory seemed close as members of the opposing army were vanquished one by one.

I win again – there you go, guys. Wow.

Above: Hikaru Nakamura

Nakamura gave himself just a moment’s respite, then plunged into another fray.

Pawns, knights, bishops and even kings fell before him as the chess grandmaster demolished a slate of online challengers, all while narrating the tide of the battle to tens of thousands of fans watching him stream live on Twitch, the Amazon-owned site where people usually broadcast themselves playing video games like Fortnite and Call of Duty.

The corona virus pandemic and stay-at-home orders crowned a host of unlikely winners catering to bored audiences, but watching livestreams of chess games?

Could one of the world’s oldest and most cerebral games really rebrand itself as a lively enough pastime to capture the interest of the masses on Twitch?

It did.

Since the pandemic began (and truth be admitted it has not really gone away, despite many countries acting as if it has), viewership of live chess games has soared.

From March through August 2020, people watched 41.2 million hours of Twitch, four times as many hours as in the previous six months, according to analytics website SullyGnome.

In June 2020, an amateur chess tournament called PogChamps was briefly the top-viewed stream on Twitch, with 63,000 people watching at once, SullyGnome said.

Above: Logo of SullyGnome

And popular Twitch gamers like Félix Lengyel (better known to his 3.3 million followers as “xQcOW“) have also recently started streaming chess.

Above: Felix Lengyel

That collision of the chess audience and the general gamer audience has created a “giant chess bonfire“, said Marcus Graham, Twitch‘s head of creator development.

Above: Marcus Graham

The popularity of online chess has partly been fueled by Nakamura.

Last month, one of the world’s top professional video game teams, Team SoloMid, beat several e-sports rivals to sign him to a six-figure contract so it could pair him with advertisers and merchandise.

Nakamura was one of the first chess players to join an e-sports team, just a week after a different group signed a Canadian player, Qiyu Zhou.

Above: Qiyu Zhou

Though Nakamura began streaming chess consistently on his Twitch channel, GMHikaru, in 2018, nearly all of his 528,000 followers have come aboard since the pandemic began.

And as his popularity has skyrocketed, media attention has increased – including a cameo of himself on the TV drama Billions in May.

It is just amazing to see the level of support and the love that I have seen from the Twitch community.“, Nakamura said.

He added that the most appealing part of playing and streaming chess was simply “the fact that I am so good at it“.

Above: Hikara Nakamura

It helps that he has an unimpeachable chess pedigree.

In 1998, at age 10, he became the youngest player in the United States to be named a Master, a title earned through strong performances.

Five years later, he became the youngest US player to graduate to Grandmaster, the highest title.

He has since won five national championships.

On his Twitch channel, Nakamura, who lives in Los Angeles, rarely stops talking.

His stream of commentary and chatter, even as he directs his pieces with the precision of an orchestra conductor, is one of the main reasons fans have flocked to him.

Above: Hikaru Nakamura

He draws people because he is so good, but also, there are other top players on Twitch that are not as engaging as he is, not as funny, not as in tune with the sort of Twitch culture.“, said Brandon Benton (34), a post-doctorial physics researcher at Cornell University who watches Nakamura stream.

He is a down-to-earth memer and jokester.

Above: Seal of Cornell University, Ithaca, New York

If you are picturing a chess match as a drawn-out slog…..

Well, you are not wrong.

A classical game without time limits can last five hours, but many online battles, including nearly all the games that Nakamura streams are blitz chess.

Each player has just a few minutes to complete their moves, leading to an aggressive, risky style of play that fans say is exhilarating to watch.

A player’s timer stops only when it is the other person’s turn to move a piece, so planning ahead and making quick calls is vital to managing the clock.

The climax often comes when mere seconds remain and the combatants exchange a rapid flurry of moves.

In an August 2020 stream, Nakamura had fewer pieces left than his opponent and just 20 seconds remaining, but 41 moves later, he was grinning after pulling off an improbable checkmate that involved charging a pawn across the board and hatching it into a queen.

It had taken him just 16 seconds.

Above: Hikaru Nakamura

More than anything, it is the ability to play extremely high-level chess and win while I seemingly am not focused on the game and talking to my chat.“, Nakamura said of his ability to draw a large audience, which he usually retains as he plays more than 20 or more games in one sitting.

At least at blitz chess, I am probably the best or second-best player ever, in the entire history, at least online.

Above: Hikaru Nakamura

Also in 2020, another factor in the rise in popularity of chess was The Queen’s Gambit, an American coming-of-age period drama streaming TV miniseries based on the 1983 novel of the same name by Walter Tevis.

The title refers to the “Queen’s Gambit“, a chess opening.

Beginning in the mid-1950s and proceeding into the 1960s, the story follows the life of Beth Harmon (Anya Taylor-Joy), a fictional chess prodigy on her rise to the top of the chess world while struggling with drug and alcohol dependency.

Netflix released The Queen’s Gambit on 23 October 2020.

After four weeks it had become Netflix’s most-watched – including by my wife – scripted miniseries, making it Netflix’s top program in 63 countries. 

The series received critical acclaim, with particular praise for Taylor-Joy’s performance, the cinematography, and production values.

It also received a positive response from the chess community for its accurate depictions of high-level chess, and data suggests that it increased public interest in the game.

I will be honest.

I am no Nakamura now nor Harmon here.

Friends and family taught me the game, but never taught me how to win.

Nor taught me to invest a lot of emotion or time in the game.

Above: Antique Indian chess set made from sandalwood.
Here the pieces are represented by riders upon elephants, horses & camels predating the European Staunton design.

In the Middle Ages and during the Renaissance, chess was a part of noble culture.

It was used to teach war strategy and was dubbed “the King’s Game“.

Above: Duke Augustus of Brunswick-Lüneburg (1579 – 1666)




Chess or the King’s Game (Das Schach- oder Königsspiel) (1616) is a book on chess, which was published in Leipzig under the name of Gustavus Selenus, the pen name of Duke Augustus.

As a young prince, Augustus probably had learned of the game during his voyages to Italy and purchased numerous chess books from the Augsburg merchant and art collector Philipp Hainhofer.


The first textbook on chess in the German language, Chess is mainly based on the Libro de la invencion liberal y arte del juego del axedrez (1561) by the Spanish priest Ruy López de Segura.

Chess also contains extensive philosophical and historical considerations (e.g. on the “chess village” of Ströbeck).

In addition to chess instruction, Chess contained interesting illustrations of contemporary German chess pieces.

The usage for chessmen at the time tended to favour slender designs with nested floral crowns.


The book was so successful that pieces of this pattern became known as the “Selenus chess sets”.

Over time, pieces became taller, thinner, and more elaborate.

Their apparent floral nature lead some to name them “Garden chess sets” or “Tulip chess sets“.

Selenus pattern sets were commonly made in Germany and Central Europe until about 1914 when they were completely eclipsed by the more playable and stable Staunton chess set pattern, introduced in 1849 by manufacturer Jaques of London.

Above: Philipp Hainhofer (1578 – 1647)

Above: Libro de la invencion liberal y arte del juego del axedrez

Above: Ströbeck, Germany

Above: Selenus chess set

Gentlemen are “to be mainly seen in the play at Chess“, says the overview at the beginning of Baldassare Castiglione’s The Book of the Courtier (1528), but chess should not be a gentleman’s main passion.

Castiglione explains it further:

And what say you to the game at chess?

It is truly an honest kind of entertainment and witty, quotes Sir Frederick.

But I think it has a fault, which is, that a man may be to counting at it, for whoever will be excellent in the play of chess, I believe he must bestow much time about it, and apply it with so much study, that a man may as soon learn some noble science, or compass any other matter of importance, and yet in the end in bestowing all that labour, he knows no more but a game.

Therefore in this I believe there happens a very rare thing, namely, that the mean is more commendable, then the excellency.

Above: The Book of the Courtier

Chess was often used as a basis of sermons on morality.

An example is Liber de moribus hominum et officiis nobilium sive super ludo scacchorum (‘Book of the customs of men and the duties of nobles or the Book of Chess‘), written by an Italian Dominican monk Jacobus de Cessolis in 1300.

This book was one of the most popular of the Middle Ages. 

Above: Illustration from Libellus de moribus hominum et officiis nobilium ac popularium super ludo scachorum

The work was translated into many other languages (the first printed edition was published at Utrecht in 1473) and was the basis for William Caxton’s The Game and Play of Chess (1474), one of the first books printed in English.

Different chess pieces were used as metaphors for different classes of people, and human duties were derived from the rules of the game or from visual properties of the chess pieces:

The knight ought to be made all armed upon an horse in such wise that he have a helmet on his head and a spear in his right hand, and covered with his shield, a sword and a mace on his left side, clad with an halberd and plates to cover his breast, leg harness on his legs, spurs on his heels, on his hands his gauntlets, his horse well broken and taught and apt to battle and covered with his armour.

When the knights have been bathed in blood, that is the sign that they should lead a new life and new manners.

Also they wake all the night in prayers and orations unto God that He will give him grace that they may get that thing that they may not get by nature.

The king or prince girds about them a sword in sign that they should abide and keep him of whom they take their dispenses and dignity.

Above: William Caxton (1422 – 1491)

During the Age of Enlightenment (17th / 18th centuries), chess was viewed as a means of self-improvement. 

Benjamin Franklin, in his article “The Morals of Chess” (1750), wrote:

The game of chess is not merely an idle amusement. Several very valuable qualities of the mind, useful in the course of human life, are to be acquired and strengthened by it, so as to become habits ready on all occasions.

For life is a kind of chess, in which we have often points to gain, and competitors or adversaries to contend with, and in which there is a vast variety of good and ill events, that are, in some degree, the effect of prudence, or the want of it.

By playing at chess then, we may learn:

I. Foresight: which looks a little into futurity, and considers the consequences that may attend an action

II. Circumspection: which surveys the whole chess board, or scene of action: – the relation of the several pieces and their situations

III. Caution: not to make our moves too hastily

Above: Benjamin Franklin (1706 – 1790)

Chess was occasionally criticized in the 19th century as a waste of time.

Chess is taught to children in schools around the world today.

Many schools host chess clubs and there are many scholastic tournaments specifically for children.

Tournaments are held regularly in many countries, hosted by organizations such as the US Chess Federation and the National Scholastic Chess Foundation.

Chess is many times depicted in the arts.

Chess became a source of inspiration in the arts in literature soon after the spread of the game to the Arab world and Europe in the Middle Ages.

The earliest works of art centered on the game are miniatures in medieval manuscripts, as well as poems, which were often created with the purpose of describing the rules.

After chess gained popularity in the 15th and 16th centuries, many works of art related to the game were created.

Above: The Chess Players, Honoré Daumier, 1863

In the Palatine Chapel of the Norman Palace in Palermo you can admire the first painting of a chess game that is known to the world.

Above: Norman Palace, Palermo, Italy

The work dates from around 1143 and the artists who created the Muslim players were chosen by the Norman king of Sicily Roger II of Hauteville, who erected the church.

Above: Chess game, Palatine Chapel, Norman Palace, Palermo, Italy

As the popularity of the game became widespread during the 15th and 16th centuries, so too did the number of paintings depicting the subject.

Continuing into the 20th century, artists created works related to the game often taking inspiration from the life of famous players or well-known games.

An unusual connection between art and chess is the life of Marcel Duchamp, who in 1923 almost fully suspended his artistic career to focus on chess.

Above: Marcel Duchamp (1887 – 1968)

The earliest known reference to chess in a European text is a Medieval Latin poem, Versus de scachis.

The oldest manuscript containing this poem has been given the estimated date of 997. 

Other early examples include miniatures accompanying books.

Some of them have high artistic value.

Above: First page of Escacs d’amor

Perhaps the best known example is the 13th-century Libro de los juegos.

The book contains 151 illustrations, and while most of them are centered on the board, showing problems, the players and architectural settings are different in each picture.

Above: Knights Templar playing chess, Libro de los juegos, 1283

The pieces illustrating chess problems in Luca Pacioli’s Latin manuscript De ludo scacchorum (On the Game of Chess) (1500), described as “futuristic” even by today’s standards, may have been designed by Leonardo da Vinci.

Above: Luca Pacioli (1447 – 1517)

After chess became gradually more popular in Europe in the 15th and 16th centuries, especially in Spain and Italy, many artists began writing poems using chess as a theme. 

Scachs d’amor (Chess of love), written by an unknown Catalan artist in the end of the 15th century, describes a game between Mars and Venus, using chess as an allegory of love.

The story also serves as a pretence to describe the rules of the game. 

Above: Statue of Mars, Musei Capitolini, Roma, Italia

Above: Statue of Venus, British Museum, London

De ludo scacchorum by Francesco Bernardino Caldogno, also created at that time, is a collection of gameplay advice, presented in poetic fashion.

One of the most influential works of chess-related art is Marco Girolamo Vida’s Scaccia ludus (1527), centered on a game played between Apollo and Mercury on Mount Olympus.

Above: Marco Girolamo Vida (1485 – 1566)

Above: Statue of Apollo, Farnese Collection, Napoli, Italia

Above: Figure of Mercury, Amsterdam Royal Palace, Netherlands

Above: Mount Olympus, Greece

It is said that, because of its high artistry, the poem made a great impression on anyone who read it, including Desiderius Erasmus. 

Above: Desiderius Erasmus of Rotterdam (1466 – 1536)

It also directly inspired at least two other works.

The first is Jan Kochanowski’s poem Chess (1565), which describes the game as a battle between two armies.

Above: Jan Kochanowski (1530 – 1584)

The second is William Jones’ Caissa, or the game of chess (1772), popularised the pseudo-ancient Greek dryad Caissa to be the “goddess of chess“.

Above: William Jones (1746 – 1794)

Since the 19th century, artists have been creating novels and – since the 20th century – films related to chess.

In the 20th century, artists created many works related to the game, sometimes taking their inspiration from the life of famous players or well-known games.

Significant works where chess plays a key role:

  • Thomas Middleton’s A Game at Chess 

  • Through the Looking Glass by Lewis Carroll

  • Vladimir Nabokov’s The Defense

 

  • The Royal Game by Stefan Zweig

  • Poul Anderson’s The Immortal Game

  • John Brunner’s The Squares of the City

  • Waldemar Lysiak’s The Chess Player

Above: Waldemar Lysiak

  • Kurt Vonnegut’s All the King’s Horses

Above: Kurt Vonnegut (1922 – 2007)

  • Ian Fleming’s From Russia with Love

  • Lionel Fanthorpe’s Forbidden Planet

Above: Lionel Fanthorpe

  • Italo Calvino’s Invisible Cities

  • Ellen Raskin’s The Westing Game

  • Walter Tevis’ The Queen’s Gambit

  • Fernando Arrabal’s The Tower Struck by Lightning

Above: Fernando Arrabal

  • George R.R. Martin’s Unsound Variations

Above: George R.R. Martin

  • Katherine Neville’s The Eight

  • Jonathan Lethen’s Dissident Gardens

  • Ronan Bennett’s Zugzwang

Above: Ronan Bennett

  • Roger Zelazny’s Unicorn Variation

Above: Roger Zelazny (1937 – 1995)

  • Samuel Beckett’s Endgame

Above: Samuel Beckett (1906 – 1989)

  • Arthur C. Clarke’s Quarantine

Above: Arthur C. Clarke (1917 – 2008)

Chess has also featured in film classics such as: 

  • Ingmar Bergman’s The Seventh Seal

  • Satyajit Ray’s The Chess Players 

  • Powell and Pressburger’s A Matter of Life and Death

  • Blade Runner

  • 2001: A Space Odyssey

  • Knight Moves

  • Fresh

  • Geri’s Game

  • The Shawshank Redemption

  • X-Men movie franchise

  • The Luzhin Defence

  • Knights of the South Bronx

  • Life of a King

  • The Dark Horse

  • Queen to Play

Chess is also present in contemporary popular culture.

For example, the characters in Star Trek play a futuristic version of the game called “Federation tridimensional chess“.

Wizard’s chess” is played in J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone.

Stealth chess” is played in Terry Pratchett’s Discworld series.

Above: Terry Pratchett (1948 – 2015)

The musical Chess (with its pop hit “One Night in Bangkok“) was loosely based on the life of chess Grandmaster Bobby Fischer.

(Robert James Fischer (1943 – 2008) was an American chess grandmaster and the 11th World Chess Champion.

A chess prodigy, at age 14 he won the 1958 US Championship.

In 1964, he won the same tournament with a perfect score (11 wins).

Above: Bobby Fischer, 1960

Qualifying for the 1972 World Championship, Fischer swept matches with Mark Taimanov and Bent Larsen by 6–0 scores.

Above: Mark Taimanov (1926 – 2016)

Above: Bent Larson (1935 – 2010)

After another qualifying match against Tigran Petrosian, Fischer won the title match against Boris Spassky of the USSR, in Reykjavik, Iceland.

Above: Tigran Petrosian (1929 – 1984)

Publicized as a Cold War confrontation between the US and USSR, the match attracted more worldwide interest than any chess championship before or since.

Above: Boris Spasski

In 1975, Fischer refused to defend his title when an agreement could not be reached with FIDE, chess’s international governing body, over the match conditions.

Above: Logo of the Fédération Internationale des Échecs

As a result, the Soviet challenger Anatoly Karpov was named World Champion by default.

Above: Anatoly Karpov

Fischer subsequently disappeared from the public eye, though occasional reports of erratic behavior emerged.

In 1992, he reemerged to win an unofficial rematch against Spassky.

It was held in Yugoslavia, which was under a United Nations embargo at the time.

Above: Flag of Serbia and Montenegro (Yugoslavia) (1992 – 2006)

His participation led to a conflict with the US government, which warned Fischer that his participation in the match would violate an executive order imposing US sanctions on Yugoslavia.

The US government ultimately issued a warrant for his arrest.

After that, Fischer lived as an émigré.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

In 2004, he was arrested in Japan and held for several months for using a passport that the US government had revoked.

Above: Flag of Japan

Eventually, he was granted an Icelandic passport and citizenship by a special act of the Icelandic Althing, allowing him to live there until his death in 2008.

Above: Flag of Iceland

Fischer made numerous lasting contributions to chess.

His book My 60 Memorable Games, published in 1969, is regarded as essential reading in chess literature.

In the 1990s, he patented a modified chess timing system that added a time increment after each move, now a standard practice in top tournament and match play.

He also invented Fischer random chess, also known as Chess960, a chess variant in which the initial position of the pieces is randomized to one of 960 possible positions.

Fischer made numerous antisemitic statements and denied the Holocaust.

His antisemitism, professed since at least the 1960s, was a major theme in his public and private remarks.

Above: Jews on selection ramp at Auschwitz, Poland, May 1944

There has been widespread comment and speculation concerning his psychological condition based on his extreme views and unusual behavior.

Above: Bobby Fischer, 1972

The 1993 film Searching for Bobby Fischer uses Fischer’s name in the title even though the film and book are about the life of chess prodigy Joshua Waitzkin whose father wrote the book.

Outside of the United States, it was released as Innocent Moves.

The title refers to the search for Fischer’s successor after his disappearance from competitive chess, since Waitzkin’s father feels that his son could be that successor.

Fischer never saw the film and complained that it invaded his privacy by using his name without his permission. 

Fischer never received any compensation from the film, calling it “a monumental swindle“.

In April 2009, the documentary Me and Bobby Fischer, about Fischer’s last years as his old friend Saemundur Palsson gets him out of jail in Japan and helps him settle in Iceland, was premiered in Iceland.

In October 2009, the biographical film Bobby Fischer Live was released, with Damien Chapa directing and starring as Fischer.

In 2011, documentary filmmaker Liz Garbus released Bobby Fischer Against the World, which explores the life of Fischer, with interviews from Grandmasters Garry Kasparov, Anthony Saidy, and others.

In 2015, the American biographical film Pawn Sacrifice was released, starring Tobey Maguire as Fischer.)

As aforementioned, one unusual connection between art and chess is the life of Marcel Duchamp, who almost fully suspended his artistic career to focus on chess in 1923.

Which leads me to a strange story…..

Above: Sad Young Man on a Train, Marcel Duchamp, 1912

If you knew absolutely nothing about art or literature, Julian Wasser’s photograph of Dadaist Marcel Duchamp and writer Eve Babitz playing chess would still be a knockout.

In the black-and-white picture, made in 1963, a nude, buxom Babitz and a black-suited Duchamp sit at a wood table in an art gallery, manipulating pawns and rooks.

The image’s deadpan humour comes from the subjects’ incongruity, as well as their scrupulous attention to the game —

Neither seems aware of her nakedness.

Above: Duchamp Playing Chess with a Nude (Eve Babitz), Duchamp Retrospective, Pasadena Art Museum, 1963, Julian Wasser

For fans of Duchamp and Babitz, the photographs capture the meeting of two minds:

  • the father of conceptual art, responsible for putting a urinal in a gallery and proclaiming it sculpture

Above: Fontaine, Marcel Duchamp, 1917

  • the writer who captured the glitz of mid-20th-century Los Angeles in sparkling, singular prose

Above: Eve Babitz (1943 – 2021)

The backstory to Wasser’s photo shoot is both tantalizing gossip and crucial cultural history.

Above: Julian Wasser

When the pictures were made, Babitz was a 20-year-old student at Los Angeles Community College.

The daughter of a violinist and an artist, and the goddaughter of Russian composer Igor Stravinsky, Babitz was already at ease in a sophisticated, aesthetic milieu.

Above: Igor Stravinsky (1882 – 1971)

She integrated herself into L.A.’s slowly burgeoning art scene, partying with Billy Al Bengston, Ed Kienholz, Kenneth Price, and the men who would become integral to the California light and space movement: Larry Bell, Robert Irwin, and Peter Alexander.

Above: Billy Al Bengston

Above: Ed Kienholz (1927 – 1994)

Above: Kenneth Price (1935 – 2012)

Above: Larry Bell

Above: Robert Irwin

Above: Peter Alexander (1939 – 2020)

Years later, she also became romantically involved with both Ed Ruscha and his brother.

Babitz fully embraced her role as an art groupie.

Above: Edward Ruscha

Above: Eve Babitz

Through this cast of characters, Babitz met Walter Hopps, a rising art world macher.

He founded Los Angeles’s first major gallery, Ferus, in 1957, then left to become a curator at the Pasadena Art Museum — now the Norton Simon Museum.

Above: Walter Hopps and Eve Babitz, Pasadena, 1966

(He left his gallery in good hands, though — his successor, Irving Blum, gave Andy Warhol his first solo show in 1962.)

Above: Andy Warhol (1928 – 1987)

In the early 1960s, Hopps, who was married to art historian Shirley Nielsen, began an affair with Babitz.

Above: Walter Hopps and Shirley Nielsen

Hopps hadn’t yet turned 30, but he was already instituting a radical, ambitious program at the Museum.

He decided to mount Duchamp’s first American retrospective, and include over 100 artworks.

At the time, Duchamp had long been out of the public eye.

Above: Marcel Duchamp, Pasadena, 1962

He had gained fame in the 1910s for his concept of the “readymade”— found objects such as a bicycle wheel or snow shovel presented as art.

Above: In Advance of the Broken Arm, Marcel Duchamp

In 1918, Duchamp took leave of the New York art scene, interrupting his work on The Large Glass.

Above: The Large Glass, Marcel Duchamp

He went to Buenos Aires, where he remained for nine months and often played chess.

He carved his own chess set from wood with help from a local craftsman who made the knights.

Above: Buenos Aires, Argentina

He moved to Paris in 1919 and then back to the United States in 1920.

In 1923, he proclaimed that he was abandoning art making in order to play chess.

Upon his return to Paris, Duchamp was, in essence, no longer a practicing artist.

Instead, his main interest was chess, which he studied for the rest of his life to the exclusion of most other activities.

Duchamp is seen, briefly, playing chess with Man Ray in the short film Entr’acte (1924) by René Clair.

Above: Marcel Duchamp and Man Ray, Entr’acte, 1924

He designed the 1925 poster for the Third French Chess Championship, and as a competitor in the event, finished at fifty percent (3–3, with two draws), earning the title of chess master.

During this period his fascination with chess so distressed his first wife that she glued his pieces to the chessboard.

Duchamp continued to play in the French Championships and also in the Chess Olympiads from 1928 to 1933.

Sometime in the early 1930s, Duchamp reached the height of his ability, but realized that he had little chance of winning recognition in top-level chess.

In the following years, his participation in chess tournaments declined, but he discovered correspondence chess and became a chess journalist, writing weekly newspaper columns.

While his contemporaries were achieving spectacular success in the art world by selling their works to high-society collectors, Duchamp observed:

I am still a victim of chess.

It has all the beauty of art — and much more.

It cannot be commercialized.

Chess is much purer than art in its social position.”

 

On another occasion, Duchamp elaborated:

The chess pieces are the block alphabet which shapes thoughts.

These thoughts, although making a visual design on the chessboard, express their beauty abstractly, like a poem.

I have come to the personal conclusion that while all artists are not chess players, all chess players are artists.

Two decades later, he began work in secret on an enigmatic masterpiece, Étant Donnés (1946 – 1966).

When the show ran, he was — at least publicly — a retired artist in his mid-seventies.

Above: Étant Donné, Marcel Duchamp

Babitz claims that she didn’t receive an invite to the exhibition’s opening part at the Hotel Green because Hopps’s wife was in town, but even Babitz’s 17-year-old sister, Mirandi, got to attend — and photographer Julian Wasser drove her to the fête.

Seething with envy, Babitz wanted to take revenge on her paramour.

Wasser, who was known for taking nude photographs of young female Angelenos, suggested a titillating form of retribution:

Playing chess at the Museum, in the buff, with Duchamp.

Above: Eve Babitz

Babitz told the Archives of American Art that the proposition seemed “like the best idea I’d ever heard in my life.

I mean, it was, not only was it vengeance, it was art.

Lessening her own inhibitions, perhaps, was the fact that Wasser had already shot her naked, at her own command:

In the pre-iPhone era, she had requested and received sexy snapshots to share with men.

Above: Eve Babitz

Wasser coordinated the photo shoot without alerting either the museum or Duchamp about his intentions.

Babitz’s performance took place before the museum opened, so her audience was the teamster staff “marching back and forth with big pieces of art,” as she once explained.

During the game, Babitz and Duchamp discussed her godfather, Stravinsky, and his famous 1910 suite, The Firebird.

Duchamp won their games as Wasser clicked his shutter.

Eventually, Hopps walked into the gallery and was so surprised that his Double Mint gum fell out of his mouth.

According to Babitz, he began returning her calls after the incident.

Above: Eve Babitz

Wasser showed Babitz the proofs, and she ultimately selected one in which she was turned away from the camera, her face obscured by her bobbed hair.

At first, she wanted to conceal her identity from the public, though she eventually opened up about her participation in the famous photograph.

The choice, as Lili Anolik points out in her Babitz biography, Hollywood’s Eve (2019), gives the picture additional strangeness as it simultaneously depicts shyness and exhibitionism, a plea for both attention and anonymity.

Anolik writes that Babitz “wasn’t just model and muse, passive and pliable, but artist and instigator, wicked and subversive.”

As Babitz told her biographer, “Walter thought he was running the show, and I finally got to run something.”

Throughout the following decades, she published seven books.

Both her fiction and non-fiction glistened with memorable detail about her Hollywood surroundings, passionate love affairs, and colourful friends.

Without help from Wasser’s framing or Duchamp’s fame, Babitz harnessed the power of her sexuality and fearlessness into art that was all her own.

I find myself more saddened than titillated by this story.

Babitz’s talents seem less literary, less imaginative and more scandalous, more rebellious.

She strikes me as a woman whose creativity was reserved to relating the drama in her life which she herself set into motion.

As for Duchamp, I feel Babitz used him and reduced him to the level of a doddering shadow lost in her sexuality on open display .

Duchamp was important in the famous photograph as only a means to an end, her fame and the mockery of all that he was.

Ultimately the very message of her nudity being ignored by both herself and Duchamp conveys to me the very emptiness of her character.

Take away her sexuality and what is left?

What had she to offer but an account of her sexuality?

Chess is a board game played between two players.

Today, chess is one of the world’s most popular games, played by millions of people worldwide.

Chess is an abstract strategy game and involves no hidden information.

It is played on a square chessboard with 64 squares arranged in an eight-by-eight grid.

At the start, each player (one controlling the white pieces, the other controlling the black pieces) controls sixteen pieces:

  • one king
  • one queen
  • two rooks
  • two bishops
  • two knights
  • eight pawns

The object of the game is to checkmate the opponent’s king, whereby the king is under immediate attack (in “check“) and there is no way for it to escape.

There are also several ways a game can end in a draw.

Organized chess arose in the 19th century.

Chess competition today is governed internationally by the Fédération Internationale des Échecs (FIDE) (International Chess Federation).

The first universally recognized World Chess Champion, Wilhelm Steinitz, claimed his title in 1886.

Above: Wilhelm Steinitz (1836 – 1900)

 

Magnus Carlsen is the current World Champion.

Above: Magnus Carlsen

A huge body of chess theory has developed since the game’s inception.

Aspects of art are found in chess composition.

Chess in its turn influenced Western culture and art.

It also has connections with other fields such as mathematics, computer science and psychology.

The rules of chess are published by FIDE, chess’s international governing body, in its Handbook.

Chess pieces are divided into two different colored sets.

While the sets may not be literally white and black (e.g. the light set may be a yellowish or off-white color, the dark set may be brown or red), they are always referred to as “white” and “black“.

The players of the sets are referred to as White and Black, respectively.

Chess sets come in a wide variety of styles.

For competition, the Staunton pattern is preferred.

The game is played on a square board of eight rows (ranks) and eight columns (files).

By convention, the 64 squares alternate in color and are referred to as light and dark squares.

Common colors for chessboards are white and brown, or white and dark green.

The pieces are set out as shown below:

Thus, on White’s first rank, from left to right, the pieces are placed in the following order:

  • rook, knight, bishop, queen, king, bishop, knight, rook.

On the second rank is placed a row of eight pawns.

Black’s position mirrors White’s, with an equivalent piece on the same file.

The board is placed with a light square at the right-hand corner nearest to each player.

The correct positions of the king and queen may be remembered by the phrase “queen on her own colour” ─ i.e. the white queen begins on a light square and the black queen on a dark square.

In competitive games, the piece colors are allocated to players by the organizers.

In informal games, the colours are usually decided randomly, for example by a coin toss, or by one player concealing a white pawn in one hand and a black pawn in the other, and having the opponent choose.

White moves first, after which players alternate turns, moving one piece per turn, except for castling, when two pieces are moved.

A piece is moved to either an unoccupied square or one occupied by an opponent’s piece, which is captured and removed from play.

With the sole exception of en passant, all pieces capture by moving to the square that the opponent’s piece occupies.

Moving is compulsory.

A player may not skip a turn, even when having to move is detrimental.

Each piece has its own way of moving.

All pieces can capture an enemy piece if it is located on a square to which they would be able to move if the square was unoccupied.

  • The king moves one square in any direction.

There is also a special move called castling that involves moving the king and a rook.

The king is the most valuable piece — attacks on the king must be immediately countered, and if this is impossible, immediate loss of the game ensues.

Once per game, each king can make a move known as castling.

Castling consists of moving the king two squares toward a rook of the same color on the same rank, and then placing the rook on the square that the king crossed.

Castling is permissible if the following conditions are met:

  • Neither the king nor the rook has previously moved during the game.
  • There are no pieces between the king and the rook.
  • The king is not in check and does not pass through or land on any square attacked by an enemy piece.
    • Castling is still permitted if the rook is under attack or if the rook crosses an attacked square.

Above: White king

  • rook can move any number of squares along a rank or file, but cannot leap over other pieces. Along with the king, a rook is involved during the king’s castling move.

Above: Black rook

  • bishop can move any number of squares diagonally, but cannot leap over other pieces.

Above: White bishop

  • queen combines the power of a rook and bishop and can move any number of squares along a rank, file, or diagonal, but cannot leap over other pieces.

Above: Black queen

  • knight moves to any of the closest squares that are not on the same rank, file, or diagonal. (Thus the move forms an “L“-shape: two squares vertically and one square horizontally, or two squares horizontally and one square vertically.)
    • The knight is the only piece that can leap over other pieces.

Above: White knight

  • A pawn can move forward to the unoccupied square immediately in front of it on the same file, or on its first move it can advance two squares along the same file, provided both squares are unoccupied (black dots in the diagram).
    • A pawn can capture an opponent’s piece on a square diagonally in front of it by moving to that square (black crosses).
    • It cannot capture a piece while advancing along the same file.
    • A pawn has two special moves: the en passant capture and promotion.
    • When a pawn makes a two-step advance from its starting position and there is an opponent’s pawn on a square next to the destination square on an adjacent file, then the opponent’s pawn can capture it en passant (“in passing”), moving to the square the pawn passed over. This can be done only on the turn immediately following the enemy pawn’s two-square advance; otherwise, the right to do so is forfeited. For example, in the animated diagram, the black pawn advances two squares from g7 to g5, and the white pawn on f5 can take it en passant on g6 (but only immediately after the black pawn’s advance).
    • When a pawn advances to its eighth rank, as part of the move, it is promoted and must be exchanged for the player’s choice of queen, rook, bishop, or knight of the same color. Usually, the pawn is chosen to be promoted to a queen, but in some cases, another piece is chosen. This is called underpromotion. There is no restriction on the piece promoted to, so it is possible to have more pieces of the same type than at the start of the game (e.g., two or more queens). If the required piece is not available (e.g. a second queen) an inverted rook is sometimes used as a substitute, but this is not recognized in FIDE sanctioned games.

Above: Black pawn

When a king is under immediate attack, it is said to be in check.

A move in response to a check is legal only if it results in a position where the king is no longer in check.

This can involve capturing the checking piece.

Interposing a piece between the checking piece and the king (which is possible only if the attacking piece is a queen, rook, or bishop and there is a square between it and the king), or moving the king to a square where it is not under attack.

Castling is not a permissible response to a check.

The object of the game is to checkmate the opponent.

This occurs when the opponent’s king is in check, and there is no legal way to get it out of check.

It is never legal for a player to make a move that puts or leaves the player’s own king in check.

In casual games, it is common to announce “check” when putting the opponent’s king in check, but this is not required by the rules of chess and is not usually done in tournaments.

A game can be won in the following ways:

  • Checkmate: 
    • The king is in check and the player has no legal move.
  • Resignation: 
    • A player may resign, conceding the game to the opponent. Most tournament players consider it good etiquette to resign in a hopeless position.
  • Win on time: 
    • In games with a time control, a player wins if the opponent runs out of time, even if the opponent has a superior position, as long as the player has a theoretical possibility to checkmate the opponent were the game to continue.
  • Forfeit: 
    • A player who cheats, violates the rules, or violates the rules of conduct specified for the particular tournament can be forfeited.
    • Occasionally, both players are forfeited.

There are several ways a game can end in a draw:

  • Stalemate: 
    • If the player to move has no legal move, but is not in check, the position is a stalemate, and the game is drawn.
  • Dead position: 
    • If neither player is able to checkmate the other by any legal sequence of moves, the game is drawn. For example, if only the kings are on the board, all other pieces having been captured, checkmate is impossible, and the game is drawn by this rule. On the other hand, if both players still have a knight, there is a highly unlikely yet theoretical possibility of checkmate, so this rule does not apply. The dead position rule supersedes the previous rule which referred to “insufficient material“, extending it to include other positions where checkmate is impossible, such as blocked pawn endings where the pawns cannot be attacked.
  • Draw by agreement: 
    • In tournament chess, draws are most commonly reached by mutual agreement between the players. The correct procedure is to verbally offer the draw, make a move, then start the opponent’s clock. Traditionally, players have been allowed to agree to a draw at any point in the game, occasionally even without playing a move. In recent years, efforts have been made to discourage short draws, for example by forbidding draw offers before move thirty.
  • Threefold repetition: 
    • This most commonly occurs when neither side is able to avoid repeating moves without incurring a disadvantage. In this situation, either player can claim a draw. This requires the players to keep a valid written record of the game so that the claim can be verified by the arbiter if challenged. The three occurrences of the position need not occur on consecutive moves for a claim to be valid. The addition of the fivefold repetition rule in 2014 requires the arbiter to intervene immediately and declare the game a draw after five occurrences of the same position, consecutive or otherwise, without requiring a claim by either player. FIDE rules make no mention of perpetual check. This is merely a specific type of draw by threefold repetition.
  • Fifty-move rule: 
    • If during the previous 50 moves no pawn has been moved and no capture has been made, either player can claim a draw. The addition of the seventy-five-move rule in 2014 requires the arbiter to intervene and immediately declare the game drawn after 75 moves without a pawn move or capture, without requiring a claim by either player. There are several known endgames where it is possible to force a mate, but it requires more than 50 moves before a pawn move or capture is made.
  • Draw on time: 
    • In games with a time control, the game is drawn if a player is out of time and no sequence of legal moves would allow the opponent to checkmate the player.

In competition, chess games are played with a time control.

If a player’s time runs out before the game is completed, the game is automatically lost (provided the opponent has enough pieces left to deliver checkmate). 

The duration of a game ranges from long (or “classical“) games, which can take up to seven hours (even longer if adjournments are permitted), to bullet chess (under three minutes per player for the entire game).

Intermediate between these are rapid chess games, lasting between one and two hours per game, a popular time control in amateur weekend tournaments.

Time is controlled using a chess clock that has two displays, one for each player’s remaining time.

Analog chess clocks have been largely replaced by digital clocks, which allow for time controls with increments.

Time controls are also enforced in correspondence chess competitions.

A typical time control is 50 days for every ten moves.

Historically, many different notation systems have been used to record chess moves.

The standard system today is short-form algebraic notation.

In this system, each square is uniquely identified by a set of coordinates, ah for the files followed by 18 for the ranks.

The usual format is:

initial of the piece moved – file of destination square – rank of destination square

The pieces are identified by their initials.

In English, these are K (king), Q (queen), R (rook), B (bishop), and N (knight: N is used to avoid confusion with king).

For example, Qg5 means “queen moves to the g-file, 5th rank” (that is, to the square g5).

Different initials may be used for other languages.

In chess literature, especially that intended for an international audience, the language-specific letters are often replaced by universally recognized piece symbols: for example, ♞c6 in place of Nc6.

This style is known as Figurine Algebraic Notation (FAN)

To resolve ambiguities, an additional letter or number is added to indicate the file or rank from which the piece moved (e.g. Ngf3 means “knight from the g-file moves to the square f3“; R1e2 means “rook on the first rank moves to e2“).

For pawns, no letter initial is used, so e4 means “pawn moves to the square e4“.

If the piece makes a capture, “x” is usually inserted before the destination square.

Thus Bxf3 means “bishop captures on f3“.

When a pawn makes a capture, the file from which the pawn departed is used to identify the pawn making the capture, for example, exd5 (pawn on the e-file captures the piece on d5).

Ranks may be omitted if unambiguous, for example, exd (pawn on the e-file captures a piece somewhere on the d-file).

A minority of publications use “:” to indicate a capture, and some omit the capture symbol altogether.

In its most abbreviated form, exd5 may be rendered simply as ed.

An en passant capture may optionally be marked with the notation “e.p.

If a pawn moves to its last rank, achieving promotion, the piece chosen is indicated after the move (for example, e1=Q or e1Q).

Castling is indicated by the special notations 0-0 (or O-O) for kingside castling and 0-0-0 (or O-O-O) for queenside castling.

A move that places the opponent’s king in check usually has the notation “+” added.

There are no specific notations for discovered check or double check.

Checkmate can be indicated by “#“.

At the end of the game, “1–0” means White won, “0–1” means Black won, and “½–½” indicates a draw.

Chess moves can be annotated with punctuation marks and other symbols.

For example:

  • !” indicates a good move
  • !!” an excellent move
  • ?” a mistake
  • ??” a blunder
  • !?” an interesting move that may not be best
  • ?!” a dubious move not easily refuted

For example, one variation of a simple trap known as the Scholar’s mate (see animated diagram) can be recorded:

1. e4 e5

2. Qh5?! Nc6

3. Bc4 Nf6?? 

4. Qxf7#

Chess has an extensive literature.

In 1913, the chess historian H.J.R. Murray estimated the total number of books, magazines, and chess columns in newspapers to be about 5,000.

Above: Harold James Ruthven Murray (1868 – 1955)

B.H. Wood estimated the number, as of 1949, to be about 20,000.

Above: Baruch Harold Wood (1909 – 1989)

David Hooper and Kenneth Whyld write that:

Since then there has been a steady increase year by year of the number of new chess publications.

No one knows how many have been printed.

Significant public chess libraries include the John G. White Chess and Checkers Collection at Cleveland Public Library, with over 32,000 chess books and over 6,000 bound volumes of chess periodicals.

Above: Cleveland Public Library Main Branch, Cleveland, Ohio

The Chess & Draughts collection at the National Library of the Netherlands (The Hague), with about 30,000 books.

Above: National Library of the Netherlands, The Hague, The Netherlands

There is an extensive scientific literature on chess psychology.

Alfred Binet and others showed that knowledge and verbal, rather than visuospatial, ability lies at the core of expertise. 

Above: Alfred Binet (1857 – 1911)

In his doctoral thesis, Adriaan de Groot showed that chess masters can rapidly perceive the key features of a position.

According to de Groot, this perception, made possible by years of practice and study, is more important than the sheer ability to anticipate moves.

De Groot showed that chess masters can memorize positions shown for a few seconds almost perfectly.

The ability to memorize does not alone account for chess-playing skill, since masters and novices, when faced with random arrangements of chess pieces, had equivalent recall (about six positions in each case).

Rather, it is the ability to recognize patterns, which are then memorized, which distinguished the skilled players from the novices.

When the positions of the pieces were taken from an actual game, the masters had almost total positional recall.

Above: Adriaan de Groot (1914 – 2006)

More recent research has focused on chess as mental training:

  • the respective roles of knowledge and look-ahead search 
  • brain imaging studies of chess masters and novices
  • blindfold chess
  • the role of personality and intelligence in chess skill
  • gender differences
  • computational models of chess expertise.

The role of practice and talent in the development of chess and other domains of expertise has led to much empirical investigation.

Ericsson and colleagues have argued that deliberate practice is sufficient for reaching high levels of expertise in chess.

Recent research, however, fails to replicate their results and indicates that factors other than practice are also important. 

For example, Fernand Gobet and colleagues have shown that stronger players started playing chess at a young age and that experts born in the Northern Hemisphere are more likely to have been born in late winter and early spring.

Compared to the general population, chess players are more likely to be non-right-handed, though they found no correlation between handedness and skill.

A relationship between chess skill and intelligence has long been discussed in scientific literature as well as in popular culture.

Academic studies that investigate the relationship date back at least to 1927.

Although one meta-analysis and most children studies find a positive correlation between general cognitive ability and chess skill, adult studies show mixed results.

Above: Fernand Gobet

One woman, Judit Polgár (generally considered the strongest female chess player ever), was at one time the 8th highest rated chess player in the world.

She is the only woman to have ever been in the top ten of the world’s chess players.

Above: Judit Polgár

Three women, Maia Chiburdanidze, Polgár, and Hou Yifan, have been ranked in the world’s top 100 players.

Above: Maia Tschiburdanidse

Above: Hou Yifan

Analysis of rating statistics of German players in an article from 2009 by Merim Bilalić, Kieran Smallbone, Peter McLeod, and Fernand Gobet indicated that although the highest-rated men were stronger than the highest-rated women, the difference (usually more than 200 rating points) was largely accounted for by the relatively smaller pool of women players (only one-sixteenth of rated German players were women).

Above: Flag of Germany

In 2020, psychologist and neuroscientist Wei Ji Ma summarized the state of research on women in chess as “there is currently zero evidence for biological differences in chess ability between the genders” but added “that does not mean that there are certainly no such differences“.

Above: Wei Ji Ma

The Queen’s Gambit is a 1983 American novel by Walter Tevis, exploring the life of fictional female chess prodigy Beth Harmon.

Bildungsroman, or coming-of-age story, it covers themes of adoption, feminism, chess, drug addiction and alcoholism.

The book was adapted for the 2020 Netflix miniseries of the same name.

The novel’s epigraph is “The Long-Legged Fly” by W.B. Yeats.

This poem highlights one of the novel’s main concerns: the inner workings of genius in a woman.

Tevis discussed this concern in a 1983 interview, the year before his death.

Above: William Butler Yeats (1865 – 1939)

The Long-Legged Fly

That civilisation may not sink,

Its great battle lost,

Quiet the dog, tether the pony

To a distant post.

Our master Caesar is in the tent

Where the maps are spread,

His eyes fixed upon nothing,

A hand upon his head.

Like a long-legged fly upon the stream

His mind moves upon silence.

That the topless towers be burnt

And men recall that face,

Move most gently if move you must

In this lonely place.

She thinks, part woman, three parts a child,

That nobody looks; her feet

Practise a tinker shuffle

Picked up on the street.

Like a long-legged fly upon the stream

Her mind moves upon silence.

That girls at puberty may find

The first Adam in their thought,

Shut the door of the Pope’s chapel,

Keep those children out.

There on that scaffolding reclines

Michael Angelo.

With no more sound than the mice make

His hand moves to and fro.

Like a long-legged fly upon the stream

His mind moves upon silence.

Let me choose my words carefully henceforth:

Life offers the human being two choices: animal existence – a lower order of life – and spiritual existence.

Some women choose the former.

Men and women have the same intellectual potential.

There is no primary difference in intelligence between the sexes, but potential left to stagnate will atrophy.

Some women do not use their mental capacity.

They deliberately let it disintegrate.

Why do some women not make use of their intellectual potential?

For the simple reason they do not need to.

It is not essential for their survival.

She thinks, part woman, three parts child.”

By the age of 12 at the latest, some women have planned a future for themselves which consists of choosing a man and letting him do all the work.

The moment a woman has made this decision she ceases to develop her mind.

She may, of course, go on to obtain various degrees and diplomas, but these increase her market value in the eyes of men, for men believe that a woman who can recite things by heart must also know and understand them.

And some women do.

But not all women.

Too few women use the time they have gained from labour-saving devices to take an active interest in history, politics or astrophysics, knowledge beyond the status quo of mere survival and propagation of the species.

Instead they take an interest in themselves.

Stupid girl
Stupid girls
Stupid girls

Maybe if I act like that
That guy will call me back
Porno paparazzi girls
I don’t wanna be a stupid girl

Go to Fred Segal, you’ll find them there
Laughing loud, so all the little people stare
Looking for a daddy to pay for the champagne
Droppin’ names

What happened to the dream of a girl president
She’s dancing in the video next to 50 cent
They travel in packs of two and three
With their itsy-bitsy doggies and their teeny-weeny tees

Where, oh where, have the smart people gone?
Oh where, oh where could they be?

Maybe if I act like that
That guy will call me back
Porno paparazzi girls
I don’t wanna be a stupid girl

Baby, if I act like that
Flippin’ my blond hair back
Push up my bra like that
I don’t wanna be a stupid girl

Break it down now

The disease is growing, it’s epidemic
I’m scared that there ain’t a cure
The world believes it, and I’m going crazy
I cannot take anymore

I’m so glad that I’ll never fit in
That will never be me
Outcasts and girls with ambition
That’s what I wanna see (come on)

Disaster’s all around (disaster’s all around)
A world of despair (a world of despair)
Your only concern, “Will it f— up my hair?”

Maybe if I act like that
That guy will call me back
Porno paparazzi girls
I don’t wanna be a stupid girl

Baby, if I act like that
Flippin’ my blond hair back
Push up my bra like that
I don’t wanna be a stupid girl

The feminine claim to beauty is supported by subterfuge, by a trick, to appear as much as a child as possible: appealing eyes, clear and taut skin, a child’s easy laugh, the appearance of helplessness, the need for protection, babbles and exclamations, inane little bursts of commentary, a preservation of a baby look so as to make the world continue to believe in the darling sweetheart girl she once was so as to induce the protective instinct in man to make him take care of her.

Without the longing after intellectual achievements, she concentrates on her external appearance.

So shortsighted, to encourage an ideal of beauty that no woman can hope to maintain beyond the age of 25!

Despite every trick of the cosmetics industry, a case of those who fool being fooled, her actual age will inevitably show through in the end.

Smooth becomes flabby, soft skin turns slack and pallid, the melody of youth becomes shrill, laughter of a lass becomes the bray of an ass.

Too few women make use of their mental processes to develop their own theories.

Too few do independent research in institutes.

Too few read the literature of libraries.

Admire marvellous works of art she might, but she will rarely create, only copy.

Some women lack ambition, desire knowledge or possess the need to prove themselves.

For women have a choice that most men do not – they can develop themselves or instead allow themselves to stagnate.

Some women choose the former, others the latter.

I am not suggesting that women can’t be the equal of men.

I am suggesting that some women, who do have a choice, choose not to be.

The other observation that seems to reoccur time and time again where chess is dealt with in the arts is how depressingly often those who excel at chess seem psychologically “off“.

Sometimes I wonder if only the insane can play chess insanely well.

G. K. Chesterton quipped:

Poets do not go mad, but chess players do.

Above: Gilbert Keith Chesterton (1874 – 1936)

Bobby Fischer claimed:

I give 98% of my mental energy to chess.

Others give only 2%.

He was not only trumpeting his extraordinary dedication but also signaling how little ground he had left for himself in the real world.

After reaching the summit of his obsession, Fischer found nowhere to go but down into his own paranoia.

Above: Bobby Fischer

But as the writer Andrew Anthony observed, Fischer’s “descent into wild and irrational behavior is far from a unique narrative, particularly in chess.

The history of the game contains many similar trajectories.

Above: Andrew Anthony

Perhaps no sport is more dangerous in this way than chess, with so many great players losing their way ––and often their minds –– in their obsessive quest to win.

Albert Einstein observed:

Chess holds its master in its own bonds, shackling the mind and brain so that the inner freedom of the very strongest must suffer.

Above: Albert Einstein (1879 – 1955)

The roster of players who were finally beaten by the sport itself demonstrates just how dangerous a game chess can be.

By the end of his life, Wilhelm Steinitz, once considered the greatest chess player of the 19th century, was telling people how he had played chess with God –– and won.

Steinitz’ story follows a parabola of fame, an arc that took him to the heights of chess notoriety before dropping him into madness.

Born in Prague in 1836, Steinitz moved to Vienna as a young man to study math and, of course, play chess.

He quickly rose through the ranks to become the first undisputed World Chess Champion in 1886, a title he held for the next 8 years.

But Steinitz’ obsession went beyond playing chess.

For decades, he engaged in the “Ink War”, a battle waged from the pages of various periodicals, including the journal he founded, the International Chess Magazine, to shape the future strategy and nature of the game.

After he lost his championship title in 1894, Steinitz traveled to Russia in a bid to reclaim his top position.

But instead of winning, he suffered a mental breakdown in St. Petersburg.

Confined to a Russian sanitarium, Steinitz spent long days of confinement playing chess with any inmate up for a game.

By the turn of the century, his erratic behavior had become even more pronounced, with reports of him talking on wireless telephones and playing chess games with God.

By 1897, Steinitz’ decline was so well known that the New York Times used it to illustrate the perils of chess:

It is not without significance that the death of Steinitz should have been due to mental disorder.

His death seems to be another admonition that ‘serious chess’ is a very serious thing indeed.

Above: Wilhelm Steinitz

Praised by Bobby Fischer as “perhaps the most accurate player who ever lived”, Paul Morphy unfortunately ended up better known for his unhinged behavior than his unparalleled talent.

In 1884, the New York Times’ obituary read:

The Great Chess Player Insane For Nearly A Score of Years

Above: Paul Morphy

Born to a wealthy New Orleans family, Morphy learned the game by watching his uncle and father play.

By age nine, he was a local legend.

At 20, Morphy traveled to New York City, ending up becoming the United States’ first chess champion.

Having conquered America, Morphy sailed to Europe where he quickly become a cultural sensation, winning chess games and being feted in royal courts and fashionable social circles.

In 1859, Morphy returned home an American hero.

Toasting him at a special dinner in Boston, Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes proclaimed:

His youthful triumphs have added a new clause to the declaration of American independence.”

Above: Oliver Wendel Holmes (1809 – 1894)

But soon history turned against Morphy.

The Civil War, which began shortly after his return to New Orleans, curtailed his chess playing and social life.

He tried to carve out a career as a lawyer, but his obsessive talk about chess drove potential clients away.

After the war, Morphy became a local curiosity, wandering the streets of New Orleans, loudly talking to himself or exploding in some persecution rant.

His behavior grew so erratic that friends attempted to commit him to the Louisiana Retreat, a local mental asylum.

Fighting any attempt at institutionalization, Morphy threatened to sue his friends, family and the Catholic Church.

Rumours of his odd behavior persisted until his death at 47, when, according to one legend, he died in his bathtub surround by a circle of women’s shoes.

Above: Paul Morphy

The Polish grandmaster Savielly Tartakower once said that Aron Nimzowitsch “pretends to be crazy in order to drive us all crazy“.

Above: Savielly Tartakower (1887 – 1956)

For the Russian chess champion Nimzowitsch, the line between being and acting crazy was always a bit fuzzy, and, more often than not, worked to his advantage.

During the Russian Revolution, he skipped out on his military duty to the Imperial government by complaining about an invisible fly on his head.

His chess career was also assisted by his occasional bouts of madness.

He famously jumped up on the chessboard after losing a rapid-fire chess game, screaming out:

Why must I lose to this idiot?

At other times, he would get up from a game in order to start doing aerobics or stand on his head, acts which he swore helped him focus his mind.

Less amusing was his unshakable fear about food.

In restaurants and public dinners, Nimzowitsch would loudly complain to everyone within earshot how he was receiving less food than other people.

When waiters scrambled to substitute someone else’s meal, or add more to his plate, he would continue his complaints as if nothing had changed.

Above: Aron Nimzowitsch (1886 – 1935)

Within a few years, Carlos Torre moved from being the hero of the Mexican chess world to an exile in his own country.

Above: Flag of Mexico

At age 20, Torre started to compete seriously, and within two years he had advanced to a position where he was matched up against (and beat) the reigning world champion Emanuel Lasker.

Above: Emanuel Lasker (1868 – 1941)

He had become so well known that made a cameo among other greats in Lev Kuleshov’s 1925 film Chess Fever.

But just as Torre was set up to become a major contender, he fell apart.

In 1926 while in New York City, Torre suffered a mental breakdown that ended with him stripping naked on a Fifth Avenue bus.

After being briefly institutionalized, he returned to his native Mexico, never to play competitively again.

For decades he lived far from the limelight, broke and nearly completely forgotten.

While some chess historians have attributed his breakdown to a recent break up with his fiancé, Torre’s friend and physician, Dr. Carlos Fruvas Gárnica, blamed his demise on the pressures of being a world-class player.

In 1926 there was no Mexican politician, general, or rich retailer, or monopolistic millionaire that did not want that Torre went to its social gatherings,” Gárnica wrote, suspecting that “Torre retired voluntarily from chess not to have to report to that society of crazy people“.

Above: Carlos Torre Repetto (1904 – 1978)

Although the British Grandmaster Gawain Jones considers the Ukrainian player Vassily Mykhaylovych Ivanchuk “possibly the most talented ever“, others have dubbed him the world’s most peculiar player.

Above: Gawain Jones

In 1987, at the age of 18, Ivanchuk won the European Junior Chess Championship.

The next year, he became a Grandmaster and was ranked one of the top 10 players in the world.

At 21, he beat the World Chess Champion Garry Kasparov in a single game.

Above: Garry Kasparov

Yet despite his obvious genius, there was rarely a tournament in which news of Ivanchuk’s latest antics ––from going out late at night to howl at the wind, or staring at the ceiling during a game, or trying fold an oversized winner’s check to fit in his pocket –– wasn’t the fodder of chess gossip.

World Champion Visvanathan Anand excuses the behavior of his friend by reminding everyone that “Chucky” lives on “Planet Ivanchuk“.

Above: Viswanathan Anand

Above: Vassily Ivanchuk

The British magazine Chess singled out Raymond Weinstein in their coverage of the US Championship in 1964 with the following blurb:

“Outside of Fischer, Weinstein was the one person in the tournament with real talent.

There is nothing to stop him going right to the top if he wants to, for Weinstein has a ruthless killer instinct.

As it turned out, the compliment was an unfortunate turn of phrase, since later that year Weinstein was arrested for murder.

The Brooklyn-born chess prodigy had not only been a contemporary of Bobby Fischer but grew up in the same neighborhood, being just two years ahead of him at Erasmus High School.

In competition, Weinstein was unfortunately always a step, or two, behind Fischer.

In 1961, he placed third at the US Championship, with Fischer coming in first.

Before Weinstein could hope to catch up with Fischer, his mind snapped.

At age 22, Weinstein experienced a mental breakdown while in Amsterdam which resulted in him physically assaulting a local chess writer.

Deported back to America, Weinstein ended up in a halfway house where he slit the throat of his 83-year-old roommate.

Deemed incompetent to stand trial, Weinstein was committed to the Kirby Forensic Psychiatric Center near Manhattan, where he lives today.

Above: Raymond Weinstein

When Alexander Pichushkin was arrested in Moscow in 2006 for 49 murders and three attempted murders, he asked the court to add 11 more counts to the charges against him.

His mysterious reason for wanting to raise the tally to 63 became clear when the police found a chessboard at his home with all but one of the squares filled in with the dates of his crimes.

Soon after, the press and public dubbed him “The Chessboard Killer,” and his fondness for chess provided a helpful clue into his particular madness.

While he had murdered his first victim when he was 18, Pichushkin started his killing spree in 2001, five years before he was arrested.

As a supermarket clerk who spent his free time playing chess under the leafy trees of Moscow’s Bitsevsky Park, Pichushkin often invited older homeless men to play chess with him before violently beating them to death with a hammer.

Some forensic psychiatrists imagined a link between these old men and his grandfather, the man who first taught him to play chess and whose death may have been the trauma that push him over the edge.

For others the game of chess itself sheds light on Pichushkin’s sociopathic behavior.

Pichushkin was “detached from human beings,” explained psychoanalyst Tatyana Drusinova.

Human beings were no more than wooden dolls, like chess pieces, to him.

Above: Alexander Pichushkin

A cursory view of the literature wherein chess plays a crucial role in the plot reveals a morass of madness:

Kochanowski’s Chess finds two men fighting over the right to marry a princess, as if their futures hang upon winning her, but the best she can muster as intelligent input is an enigmatic opinion that knights know how to fight, priests are good at giving advice, infantry doesn’t hesitate to walk forward and that it is no loss to change a dear thing for someone beloved.

Beyond her beauty and her dowry I cannot see what benefits she offers the fortunate fellow who wins her as a prize.

Love / lust is its own kind of insanity.

Above: Kochanowski’s Chess

Through the Looking-Glass, and What Alice Found There (also known as Alice Through the Looking-Glass or simply Through the Looking-Glass), the sequel to Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland (1865) is a novel published on 27 December 1871 by Lewis Carroll.

Above: Charles Lutwidge Dodgson (aka Lewis Carroll) (1832 – 1898)

Alice again enters a fantastical world, this time by climbing through a mirror into the world that she can see beyond it.

There she finds that, just like a reflection, everything is reversed, including logic (for example, running helps one remain stationary, walking away from something brings one towards it, chessmen are alive, nursery rhyme characters exist, and so on).

The horror of that moment,” the King went on, “I shall never never forget!

You will, though,” the Queen said, “if you don’t make a memorandum of it.

Above: The Red King

It seems very pretty,’ she said when she had finished it, ‘but it’s rather hard to understand!

(You see she didn’t like to confess, even to herself, that she couldn’t make it out at all.)

Somehow it seems to fill my head with ideas — only I don’t exactly know what they are!

Above: Mia Wasikowska (Alice Kingsleigh), Alice Through the Looking Glass (2016)

Why, sometimes I’ve believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast.

Above: Helena Bonham Carter (The Red Queen), Alice Through the Looking Glass (2016)

“…and he was going on, when his eye happened to fall upon Alice:

He turned round rather instantly, and stood for some time looking at her with an air of the deepest disgust.


What—is—this?” he said at last.


This is a child!” Haigha replied eagerly, coming in front of Alice to introduce her, and spreading out both his hands towards her in an Anglo-Saxon attitude.

We only found it to-day. It’s as large as life, and twice as natural!


I always thought they were fabulous monsters!” said the Unicorn.

Is it alive?


It can talk,” said Haigha, solemnly.


The Unicorn looked dreamily at Alice, and said:

Talk, child.”


Alice could not help her lips curling up into a smile as she began:

Do you know, I always thought Unicorns were fabulous monsters, too!

I never saw one alive before!


Well, now that we have seen each other,” said the Unicorn, “if you’ll believe in me, I’ll believe in you.

Is that a bargain?“”

Above: The Unicorn, Alice, and the Lion

“It is a very inconvenient habit of kittens (Alice had once made the remark) that, whatever you say to them, they always purr.

If they would only purr for “yes” and mew for “no,” or any rule of that sort” she had said, “so that one could keep up a conversation!

But how can you talk with a person if they always say the same thing?“”

Above: Alice with kitten

Children yet, the tale to hear,
Eager eye and willing ear,
Lovingly shall nestle near.

In a Wonderland they lie,
Dreaming as the days go by,
Dreaming as the summers die:

Ever drifting down the stream —
Lingering in the golden gleam —
Life, what is it but a dream?

Madness.

Nabokov’s The Defence‘s main character, Aleksandr Luzhin, suffers from mental problems because of his obsession with chess.

Above: Vladimir Nabokov (1899 – 1977)

Stefan Zweig’s The Royal Game is set on a passenger liner travelling from New York to Buenos Aires.

One of the passengers is a world chess champion, Mirko Czentovic, an idiot savant and prodigy with no obvious qualities apart from his talent for chess.

Another is a lawyer who managed the assets of the Austrian nobility and church, who was arrested by the Gestapo who hoped to extract information from Dr B. in order to steal the assets.

The Gestapo kept Dr B. imprisoned in a hotel, in total isolation, but Dr B. maintained his sanity by stealing a book of past masters’ chess games, which he learned completely.

After absorbing every single move in the book, he began to play against himself, developing the ability to separate his psyche into two personas.

This psychological conflict ultimately caused him to suffer a breakdown, after which he awakened in a hospital.

A sympathetic physician attested his insanity to keep him from being imprisoned again by the Nazis, and he was freed.

In a stunning demonstration of his imaginative and combinational powers, Dr B. beats the world champion.

The champion suggests another game to restore his honour.

Dr B. immediately agrees, but this time, having sensed that Dr B. played quite fast and hardly took time to think, Czentovic tries to irritate his opponent by taking several minutes to make each move, thereby putting psychological pressure on Dr B., who gets more and more impatient as the game proceeds.

His greatest power turns out to be his greatest weakness:

He devolves into rehearsing imagined matches against himself repeatedly and manically.

Czentovic’s slow deliberation drives Dr B. to distraction and ultimately to insanity.

Above: Stefan Zweig (1881 – 1942)

So much of who chess masters are – hinging on the outcome of a game.

John Brunner’s sci-fi novel The Squares of the City is a sociological story of urban class warfare and political intrigue, taking place in the fictional South American capital city of Vados.

It explores the idea of subliminal messages as political tools,

It is notable for having the structure of a famous 1892 chess game between Wilhelm Steinitz and Mikhail Chigorin.

Above: Wilhelm Steinitz

Above: Mikhail Chigorin (1850 – 1908)

The structure is not coincidental and plays an important part in the story.

Above: John Brunner (1934 – 1995)

In Darren Shan’s Lord Loss, Grubitsch “Grubbs” Grady, the younger child of chess-obsessed parents, grows increasingly uneasy with the recent strange, nervous behavior of his parents and sister.

One night, he finds the mutilated bodies of his family and encounters Lord Loss, a gruesome human-like demon who sets his two familiars, Vein and Artery, on Grubbs.

Although Grubbs manages to escape, he is deeply traumatized and is placed in a mental institute.

He refuses to respond to treatment until he is visited by his father’s younger brother, Dervish Grady, who tells Grubbs that he knows demons exist and convinces Grubbs to finally accept help.

The only way to cure him is by winning three out of five simultaneous chess games with the powerfully magical demon master Lord Loss.

While confronting Lord Loss, Dervish is constantly distracted from his chess match.

Dervish is able to convince Lord Loss to let Grubbs finish the chess game.

Grubbs realizes that Lord Loss is feeding on his despair and then decides to play with an aloof attitude.

This throws Lord Loss’ concentration, allowing Grubbs to win the game.

Above: Darren O’Shaughnessy (aka Darren Shan)

Jonathan Lethem’s Dissident Gardens finds Uncle Lenny, who once played Bobby Fischer to a draw as a participant in a simultaneous exhibition in which Fischer defeated everyone else, destroying the chess confidence and ambitions of a young Cicero.

Cicero does so badly that he swears off chess forever.

Above: Jonathan Lethem

Endgame, by Samuel Beckett, is an absurdist, tragicomic one act play about a blind, paralyzed, domineering elderly man, his geriatric parents and his doddering, dithering, harried, servile companion in an abandoned shack in a post-apocalyptic wasteland who mention their awaiting some unspecified “end” which seems to be the end of their relationship, death, and the end of the actual play itself.

Much of the play’s content consists of terse, back and forth dialogue between the characters reminiscent of bantering, along with trivial stage actions.

The plot is held together by the development of a grotesque story-within-a-story the character Hamm is writing.

The play’s title refers to chess and frames the characters as acting out a losing battle with each other or their fate.

Endgame is an expression of existential angst and despair and depicts Beckett’s philosophical worldview, namely the extreme futility of human life and the inescapable dissatisfaction and decay intrinsic to it.

The existential feelings buried in the work achieve their most vocal moments in lines such as:

It will be the end and there I’ll be, wondering what can have brought it on and wondering why it was so long coming.

Infinite emptiness will be all around you, all the resurrected dead of all the ages wouldn’t fill it, and there you’ll be like a little bit of grit in the middle of the steppe.“

In both Hamm seems to contemplate the sense of dread awakened by the obliterating force of death.

Endgame is also a quintessential work of what Beckett called “tragicomedy”, or the idea that, as Nell herself in the play puts it:

Nothing is funnier than unhappiness.”

Another way to think about this is that things which are absurd can be encountered both as funny in some contexts and horrifyingly incomprehensible in others.

Beckett’s work combines these two responses in his vast artistic vision of depicting not a segment of lived experience but the very philosophical nature of life itself, in the grandest view, as the central subject material of the play.

To Beckett – due to his existential worldview – life itself is absurd, and this incurs reactions of both black mirth and profound despair.

To Beckett, these emotions are deeply related, and this is evident in the many witty yet dark rejoinders in the play, such as Hamm’s comment in his story, “You’re on Earth, there’s no cure for that!”, which both implies in a melodramatic fashion that being born is a curse, but sounds perhaps like a biting, bar-talk joke, such as telling someone “You’re Irish, there’s no cure for that!

Above: Flag of Ireland

Much of Beckett’s core thought which is expanded on in Endgame is in his critical analysis of Marcel Proust, entitled “Proust”.

Above: Marcel Proust (1871 – 1922)

In it, he explains his Schopenhauerian view of the human will endlessly chasing after momentary satisfaction that it can rarely if ever constantly attain, which lies behind the image of “grain upon grain” (moments in life and time) never amounting to “the impossible heap” (some fixed, non-transient accumulation or deposition of enduring value, in time).

Above: Arthur Schopenhauer (1788 – 1860)

Themes in Endgame include:

  • decay
  • insatiability and dissatisfaction
  • pain
  • monotony
  • absurdity
  • humour
  • horror
  • meaninglessness
  • nothingness
  • existentialism
  • nonsense
  • solipsism
  • people’s inability to relate to or find completion in one another
  • narrative or story-telling
  • family relations
  • nature
  • destruction
  • abandonment
  • sorrow

Endgame is lurching, starting and stopping, rambling, unbearably impatient, and sometimes incoherent.

Much the way I attempt to play chess.

In fact, it almost seems like a parody of writing itself.

Beckett’s eerie, weird stories about people at their last gasp often doing or seeking something futile somehow seems to return again and again as central to his art.

It could be taken to represent the inanity of existence, but it also seems to hint at mocking not only life but storytelling itself, inverting and negating the literary craft with stories that are idiotically written, anything from poorly to put-on and overwrought.

The characters recurrently hint that they are aware they are characters in a play.

Above: Samuel Beckett

Tomorrow, and tomorrow, and tomorrow,

Creeps in this petty pace from day to day,

To the last syllable of recorded time;

And all our yesterdays have lighted fools

The way to dusty death. Out, out, brief candle!

Life’s but a walking shadow, a poor player,

That struts and frets his hour upon the stage,

And then is heard no more. It is a tale

Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,

Signifying nothing.

Chess is a thinking game, a cerebral drinking game, a parody of life wherein life is imitated while movements are initiated.

Life is not black and white as the layout of a chessboard.

People do not move in particular patterns or predictable potentialities.

So much time invested in analyzing the movement of “men” on a board while time slips beyond our grasp and once lost is never regained.

Some say that chess is a sport and I agree with that analogy.

Proficiency requires practice.

Those that merely view invest time and emotion to an outcome they neither affect nor benefit from.

Chess is a musical with music by Benny Andersson and Björn Ulvaeus of the pop group ABBA, lyrics by Ulvaeus and Tim Rice, and the book by Rice.

Above: ABBA – Benny Andersson, Anni-Frid Lyngstad (Frida), Agnetha Fältskog, and Björn Ulvaeus

Above: Tim Rice

The story involves a politically driven, Cold War-era chess tournament between two Grandmasters, one American and the other Soviet, and their fight over a woman who manages one and falls in love with the other.

Although the protagonists were not intended to represent any real individuals, the character of the American grandmaster (named Freddie Trumper in the stage version) was loosely based on Bobby Fischer, while elements of the story may have been inspired by the chess careers of Russian Grandmasters Viktor Korchnoi and Anatoly Karpov.

Chess allegorically reflected the Cold War tensions present in the 1980s.

The musical has been referred to as a metaphor for the whole Cold War, with the insinuation being made that the Cold War is itself a manipulative game. 

Released and staged at the height of the strong anti-communist agenda that came to be known as the “Reagan Doctrine“, Chess addressed and satirized the hostility of the international political atmosphere of the 1980s.

Above: Ronald Reagan (1911 – 2004)

One Night in Bangkok” is a song from the concept album and subsequent musical Chess.

British actor and singer Murray Head raps the verses, while the chorus is sung by Anders Glenmark, a Swedish singer, songwriter and producer.

The release topped the charts in many countries, including South Africa, West Germany, Switzerland, Denmark and Australia.

It peaked at #3 in both Canada and the US, at #12 in the United Kingdom.

The main song has a pop styling, whose lyrics describe the Thai capital city and its nightlife in the context of a chess match.

Above: Images of Bangkok, Thailand

The verses ridicule the city, describing its attractions — the red light district (Soi Cowboy), Chao Phraya River (muddy old river), Wat Pho (reclining Buddha) — as less interesting than a game of chess.

Above: Soi Cowboy district, Bangkok

Above: Chao Phraya River in Bangkok

Above: Reclining Buddha of Wat Pho Temple, Bangkok

These sarcastic denunciations led to Thailand’s Mass Communications Organisation issuing a ban on the song in 1985, saying its lyrics “cause misunderstanding about Thai society and show disrespect towards Buddhism“.

Above: Flag of Thailand

The lyrics mention actor Yul Brynner, about six months before his death, who had played the King of Siam in the Broadway musical and the 1956 film The King and I (also banned in Thailand).

Above: Yul Brynner (1920 – 1985)

Other Thai-related references in the lyrics include ones to Thailand’s former name (“Siam“), kathoeys (transgender women)  (“You’ll find a god in every golden cloister — And if you’re lucky then the god’s a she“), and the Oriental Hotel (girls “are set up in the Somerset Maugham suite“, to which the verse replies “I get my kicks above the waistline, sunshine“).

Above: Kathoys on stage, Bangkok

Above: Oriental Hotel, Bangkok

Above: Somerset Maugham (1874 – 1965)

Above: Somerset Maugham Suite, Oriental Hotel, Bangkok

The “Tyrolean spa” mentioned early in the song refers to Merano in the South Tyrol region of Italy, the site of Act 1 of the musical.

Above: Meran / Merano, South Tyrol, Italy

It also mentions three places where chess tournaments were previously held: Iceland, the Philippines, and Hastings (England).

(The World Chess Championship was a match between US challenger Bobby Fischer and Soviet defending champion Boris Spassky, in the Laugardalshöll arena in Reykjavik, Iceland (dubbed the Match of the Century) (11 July to 31 August 1972).

Above: Images of Reykjavik, Iceland

The World Chess Championships was played between Anatoly Karpov and Viktor Korchnoi in Baguio, Philippines (18 July to 18 October 1978).

Above: Baguio, Philippines

The Hastings International Chess Congress is an annual chess tournament around the turn of the year.) 

Above: Hastings, England

Bangkok, Oriental setting
And the city don’t know that the city is getting
The creme de la creme of the chess world in a
Show with everything but Yul Brynner

Time flies doesn’t seem a minute
Since the Tirolean spa had the chess boys in it
All change, don’t you know that when you
Play at this level there’s no ordinary venue

It’s Iceland or the Philippines or Hastings or
this place!

Above: Murray Head, One Night in Bangkok video (1984)

One night in Bangkok and the world’s your oyster
The bars are temples, but the pearls ain’t free
You’ll find a god in every golden cloister
And if you’re lucky then the god’s a she
I can feel an angel sliding up to me

One town’s very like another
When your head’s down over your pieces, brother

It’s a drag, it’s a bore, it’s really such a pity
To be looking at the board, not looking at the city

Wait a minute!

Ya seen one crowded, polluted, stinking town…..

Tea, girls, warm, sweet
Some are set up in the Somerset Maugham suite

Get Thai’d! You’re talking to a tourist
Whose every move’s among the purest
I get my kicks above the waistline, sunshine

One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble
Not much between despair and ecstasy
One night in Bangkok and the tough guys tumble
Can’t be too careful with your company
I can feel the devil walking next to me

Siam’s gonna be the witness
To the ultimate test of cerebral fitness
This grips me more than would a
Muddy old river or reclining Buddha

Thank God, I’m only watching the game, controlling it

I don’t see you guys rating
The kind of mate I’m contemplating
I’d let you watch, I would invite you
But the queens we use would not excite you

So you better go back to your bars, your temples, your massage
parlours

One night in Bangkok and the world’s your oyster
The bars are temples, but the pearls ain’t free
You’ll find a god in every golden cloister
A little flesh, a little history,
I can feel an angel sliding up to me

One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble
Not much between despair and ecstasy
One night in Bangkok and the tough guys tumble
Can’t be too careful with your company
I can feel the devil walking next to me

Chess is a show, is showmanship, mind versus mind in a mindless spectacle.

Chess is a distraction from life, considered superior because it is more cerebral than reality or pleasures distinct from ordinary life.

Life, chess, are we really watching it, controlling it?

Or are we merely reacting to the movements around us?

Must life, chess, be little between despair and ecstasy?

Are the angels sliding up to me truly what they seem?

Can’t be too careful in your company.

Are we all mere players on the chessboard of life?

Or is there life beyond the game?

It’s your move.

Above: Bobby Fischer

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Peter Brown, “The Most Dangerous Game“, http://www.bleeckerstreetmedia.com / Kellen Browning, “Chess is now a streaming obsession“, New York Times, 7 September 2020 / Lewis Carroll, Alice Through the Looking Glass / Alina Cohen, “Why Marcel Duchamp played chess with a naked Eve Babitz“, 17 May 2019, http://www.artsy.net

Canada Slim and the Starry Night on Murder Mountain

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 3 July 2022

There are many similarities between my neighbourhood here in Eskişehir and the old neighbourhood I left behind in Landschlacht, Switzerland – open fields across from the apartment building, a football pitch a stone’s throw away, and a bus stop close by to busier urban areas.

The main two differences between Landschlacht and Eskişehir are the presence of the wife in Switzerland and her absence here in Turkey, the presence of starry skies in Landschlacht and the absence of celestial bodies overhead in Eskişehir.

Above: Starry Night, Vincent van Gogh, 1889

Starry, starry night
Paint your palette blue and gray

Above: Starry Night Over the Rhone, Vincent van Gogh, 1888

Look out on a summer’s day

Above: The Sower with Setting Sun, Vincent van Gogh,1888


With eyes that know the darkness in my soul

Above: Worn Out, Vincent van Gogh, 1882

I have chosen absence over presence by residing here, but this does not mean that the absence isn’t keenly felt.

My blogs – this one and my sadly neglected Chronicles of Canada Slim – try to be varied, bouncing between travels of myself and others, of subjects recent and rare.

But because I am so far removed from the familiar, there is sometimes a compulsion in me to remember places past and to reflect on their meaning.

Above: Flag of Canada Slim

From my kitchen window in Eskişehir I can see foothills in the distance.

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Türkiye

On an exceptionally clear day one can see Mount Säntis from our living room window in Landschlacht.

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Shadows on the hills
Sketch the trees and the daffodils
Catch the breeze and the winter chills
In colors on the snowy, linen land

Above: Two Peasant Women Digging in a Snow-Covered Field at Sunset, Vincent van Gogh, 1890

During the mini-sabbatical between school contracts the wife insisted that we spend the night on Säntis.

What follows is that story…..

Above: Aerial view of Säntis Mountain, Switzerland

Schwägalp, Switzerland, Thursday 30 December 2021

At 2,501.9 metres (8,208 ft) above sea level, Säntis is the highest mountain in the Alpstein massif of northeastern Switzerland (Schweiz).

Above: Säntis

It is also the culminating point of the whole Appenzell Alps, between Lake Walen (Walensee) and Lake Constance (Bodensee).

Above: Appenzell Alps

Above: Unterterzen, Walensee, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Above: Map of the Bodensee – Landschlacht is between Kreuzlingen and Altnau on the shore of the Lake

Shared by three cantons, the mountain is a highly visible landmark thanks to its exposed northerly position within the Alpstein massif.

Above: View from the summit of Säntis

As a consequence, houses called Säntisblick (Säntis view) can be found in regions as far away as the Black Forest (Schwarzwald) in Germany (Deutchland).

Above: Naturpark Nordschwarzwald, Germany (Deutschland)

Säntis is among the most prominent summits in the Alps and the most prominent summit in Europe with an observation deck on the top. 

The panorama from the summit is spectacular.

Above: Säntis

Six countries can be seen if the weather allows: Switzerland, Germany, Austria (Österreich), Liechtenstein, France and Italy (Italia).

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Above: Flag of Germany

Above: Flag of Austria

Above: Flag of Liechtenstein

Above: Flag of France

Above: Flag of Italy

Säntis is located in the Alpstein region, nearly 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) (as the crow flies) southwest of the town of Appenzell.

Above: Village centre, Appenzell, Canton Appenzell Innerrhoden, Switzerland (Schweiz)

Three cantons meet on Säntis: Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Appenzell Innerrhoden and St. Gallen, the Mountain being split between the municipalities of Hundwil, Schwende and Wildhaus – Alt St. Johann.

Above: Flag of Canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden

Above: Flag of Canton Appenzell Innerrhoden

Above: Flag of Canton St. Gallen

Above: Hundwil, Canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Switzerland (Schweiz)

Above: Scattered settlements of Schwende, Canton Appenzell Innerrhoden, Switzerland (Schweiz)

Above: Wildhaus – Alt. St. Johan, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland (Schweiz)

Even though its summit is at only 2,502 metres above sea level, the Mountain ranks number 13th in the Alps and 29th in Europe in topographic prominence at 2,021 metres (6,631 ft).

Above: (in green) Europe

Peaks with high prominence often have impressive summit views, even if their elevations are relatively modest, Säntis being a prime example.

Säntis is also the highest mountain of both cantons of Appenzell Ausserrhoden and Appenzell Innerrhoden.

So, yes, Säntis is well below the proportions of the Alps, but nonetheless it is the highest point for many kilometres around.

Above: Lac Cheserys, Mont Blanc Massif (highest range of the Alps), Argentière, France




The exposed position of Säntis results in weather conditions normally observed in the high Alps, which means being a typically polar climate, but with heavy precipitation not found in most of the Arctic.

This day, this penultimate day of 2021, found us at the base of the mountain in -3° C and at the summit in -8° C temperatures.

The exposed location of the Säntis makes for extreme weather conditions. 

The mean temperature is −1.9 °C.

The lowest temperature ever recorded was −32 °C in January 1905, the highest 21.0 °C on 26 June 2019.

For 1991 to 2020, the annual mean temperature is -0.7 °C, with the coldest monthly mean temperatures being measured in February at -7.5 °C and the warmest in August at 6.8 °C. 

On average there are around 238 frost days and 149 ice days expected. 

Above: View from Säntis

With an annual mean of 2,837 mm, the Säntis is the “wettest place” in Switzerland. 

The highest daily total of precipitation was 180 mm in June 1910. 

The highest precipitation in one hour was measured in July 1991 with 81.9 mm. 

Above: Säntis 360° Panorama

During Hurricane Lothar on 26 December 1999, a record wind speed of 230 km/h was measured. 

Above: Trajectory of Hurricane Lothar, 25 – 27 December 1999 –
Coming from France at a forward speed of 100 km/h, starting in northern Brittany at around 0400, the storm hit Brittany (Bretagne), the Black Forest (Schwarzwald), Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Austria (Österreich), for about 2.5 hours from 1000 to 1200.
The hurricane caused the highest storm damage in recent European history, especially in northern France, Switzerland, southern Germany and Austria.
As a result of the storm and the cleanup effort, about 110 people died, including 88 in France. 
In Baden-Württemberg (southwest Germany), 13 people were killed on the day of the storm, and 14 people died in Switzerland. 
Weeks after the storm, people were still dying during the clean-up work, mostly in private forests, where untrained forest owners and their families were mostly killed by live tree trunks during the timber salvage work. 
In Switzerland alone, 15 people died from such accidents, in Austria there were no serious injuries at the end of 1999.

In honour of the Swiss National Day, which is celebrated 1 August each year, the world’s largest Swiss flag was to be seen on Säntis from 31 July – 2 August 2009.

The square national flag was 120 meters each side and weighed 1.2 tons.

The flag ripped on 2 August 2009 due to strong winds in the area.

On 21 April and 23 April 1999, below the summit in the northern snow field of the mountain, the highest snow depth ever recorded in Switzerland was measured at 816 cm. 

Snow has to be expected in all months:

In August 1995, for example, there was one meter of snow. 

Every year there is 1,003 cm of fresh snow on the Säntis, with December snowing the most (165 cm) and August the least (12 cm). 

There is at least 1 cm of fresh snow on 114 days per year, with March and December being the months with the most days of fresh snow (15.0 and 15.7 days respectively). 

There are no months of the year on average without one day of fresh snow. 

The fewest days of snowfall are in August (1.7 days). 

There is an average of more than 1 cm of snow on the Säntis on 285.7 days a year. 

Even in August there is snow on average on 3.3 days. 

Above: Säntis

Each year, Säntis is struck by around 400 lightning bolts. 

During the first measurements, the engineer Antoine-Joseph Buchwalder and his assistant were struck by lightning on 4 July 1832. 

The assistant died at the scene of the accident. 

With difficulty and in great pain, Buchwalder reached Alt St. Johann and was only able to resume his work the following year.

Above: Antoine Joseph Buchwalder (1792 – 1883)

From the summer of 2010 to around June 2011, around 50 lightning strikes were registered in the transmission tower.

Säntis has one of the highest rate of lightning strikes in Europe.

Above: Säntis

In 2010 a lightning measurement station was installed atop a 120 m (390 ft) tall telecommunications tower on the mountain by the Electromagnetic Compatibility Lab of the EPFL in Lausanne.

Above: École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL), Canton Vaud, Switzerland (Suisse)

The Säntis station automatically records about one gigabyte of data per lightning strike and then notifies researchers.

In the first nine months of operation it recorded about 50 strikes, including seven positive lightning strikes.

Above: This cell tower atop Säntis is struck by lightning more than 100 times a year.

(Cloud-to-ground (CG) lightning is either positive or negative, as defined by the direction of the conventional electric current between cloud and ground.

Most CG lightning is negative, meaning that a negative charge is transferred to ground and electrons travel downward along the lightning channel (conventionally the current flows from the ground to the cloud).

The reverse happens in a positive CG flash, where electrons travel upward along the lightning channel and a positive charge is transferred to the ground (conventionally the current flows from the cloud to the ground).

Positive lightning is less common than negative lightning, and on average makes up less than 5% of all lightning strikes.

Positive lightning strikes tend to be much more intense than their negative counterparts.

An average bolt of negative lightning carries an electric current of 30,000 amperes (30 kA), and transfers 15 C (coulombs) of electric charge and 1 gigajoule of energy.

Large bolts of positive lightning can carry up to 120 kA and 350 C.

The average positive ground flash has roughly double the peak current of a typical negative flash, and can produce peak currents up to 400 kA and charges of several hundred coulombs.

Furthermore, positive ground flashes with high peak currents are commonly followed by long continuing currents, a correlation not seen in negative ground flashes.

As a result of their greater power, positive lightning strikes are considerably more dangerous than negative strikes.

Positive lightning produces both higher peak currents and longer continuing currents, making them capable of heating surfaces to much higher levels which increases the likelihood of a fire being ignited.

The long distances positive lightning can propagate through clear air explains why they are known as “bolts from the blue“, giving no warning to observers.

Positive lightning tends to occur more frequently in winter storms, as with thundersnow, during intense tornadoes and in the dissipation stage of a thunderstorm.)

Since 2021, a research consortium led by Jean-Pierre Wolf has been testing a laser lightning rod system from here, firing short 0.7 TW laser pulses into clouds to stimulate lightning discharge.

Above: Jean-Pierre Wolf

The name Säntis dates back to the 9th century.

It is an abbreviation of the Romansh language (one of Switzerland’s four official languages – the others being German, French and Italian) for Sambatinus (the one born on Saturday), which was thought to be the name of a nearby area.

Above: Images of the Romansh language

(I have visited Säntis at least a half dozen times over an eleven-year period, but for some unknown reason never on a Saturday.)

The name was later used to refer to the summit.

In the German language it was called Semptis or Sämptis.

The Mountain later gave its name to a canton of the Helvetic Republic (1798 – 1803).

(Säntis Canton consisted of the territory of St. Gallen, Appenzell and Rheintal (Rhine River Valley).

Its capital was St. Gallen.

Above: Canton Säntis (orange) and Canton Linth (green), République Hélvetique (1792 – 1802)

The Helvetic Republic (République Hélvetique) was a sister republic of France that existed between 1798 and 1803, during the French Revolutionary Wars (1792 – 1802).

It was created following the French invasion (January – May 1798) and the consequent dissolution of the Old Swiss Confederacy (Eidgenossenschaft / Corps des Suisses / Confoederatio helvetica) (1300 – 1798), marking the end of the ancien régime in Switzerland.

Throughout its existence, the Republic incorporated most of the territory of modern Switzerland, excluding the cantons of Geneva (Genève) and Neuchâtel and the old Prince-Bishopric of Basel.

The Swiss Confederacy, which until then had consisted of self-governing cantons united by a loose military alliance (and ruling over subject territories, such as Vaud), was invaded by the French Revolutionary Army and turned into an ally known as the “Helvetic Republic“.

The interference with localism and traditional liberties was deeply resented, although some modernizing reforms took place.

Resistance was strongest in the more traditional Catholic cantons, with armed uprisings breaking out in spring 1798 in the central part of Switzerland.

The French and Helvetic armies suppressed the uprisings, but opposition to the new government gradually increased over the years, as the Swiss resented their loss of local democracy, the new taxes, the centralization and the hostility to religion.

Nonetheless, there were long-term effects.

The Republic’s name Helvetic, after the Helvetii, the Gaulish inhabitants of the Swiss Plateau in antiquity, was not an innovation.

Rather, the Swiss Confederacy had occasionally been dubbed Republica Helvetiorum in humanist Latin since the 17th century, and Helvetia, the Swiss national personification, made her first appearance in 1672.

In Swiss history, the Helvetic Republic represents an early attempt to establish a centralized government in the country.)

The Säntis is one of the Alps climbed early on, including for hunting. 

Benedictine Father Desiderius Wetter (1702 – 1751) reports in his chronicle that on 14 December 1680, two clergymen and a natural scientist from Zürich climbed the Säntis with a guide from Innerrhoden in order to spot a comet with a tail that was the largest ever seen…..

(C/1680 V1, also called the Great Comet of 1680Kirch’s Comet, and Newton’s Comet, was the first comet discovered by telescope.

It was discovered by Gottfried Kirch (1639 – 1710).

It was one of the brightest comets of the 17th century.

Above: The comet of 1680 over Rotterdam, Netherlands

It became one of the brightest comets of the 17th century – reputedly visible even in daytime – and was noted for its spectacularly long tail. 

Passing 0.42 au – (An astronomical unit (au) is is a unit of length, roughly the distance from Earth to the Sun and equal to 150 million kilometres / 93 million miles) or 8.3 light minutes.) – from Earth on 30 November 1680, it sped around an extremely close perihelion (the nearest point respectively of a body’s direct orbit around the Sun) of 0.0062 au (930,000 km / 580,000 miles) on 18 December 1680, reaching its peak brightness on 29 December as it swung outward.

It was last observed on 19 March 1681.

Above: The 1680 comet seen from Rotterdam on 29 December 1680 as simulated by Stellarium

By 1680, the telescope was an instrument that had been used by astronomers for 70 years, but comets had only been spotted with the naked eye. 

This changed when Gottfried Kirch observed the Moon and Mars with a telescope in the early morning of 14 November 1680 in Cobourg.

Above: The Moon seen from Earth, 2006

Above: Mars, image from Mars Global Surveyor, 1999

Above: Coburg, Bavaria (Bayern), Germany (Deutschland)

He saw a star next to the Moon that was not listed in Tycho Brahe’s (1546 – 1601) star catalogue. 

Above: Tycho Brahe

As Kirch moved his telescope to pinpoint the position of this star, he encountered what he later described as “a kind of nebulous speck of unusual appearance” which he took to represent either “a nebulous star resembling that in Andromeda’s belt” or thought it was a comet. 

Above: Andromeda as seen by the naked eye with the line between the stars superimposed

Indeed, his “nebulous star” was a new comet, and Kirch’s accidental discovery went down in history as the first comet discovery using a telescope.

At the time of its discovery, the comet had not yet developed a tail and was not yet visible to the naked eye. 

Two days later the comet had changed position and a faint tail of ½° length could be seen in the telescope.

The comet rapidly increased in brightness and was seen in England on the morning of 21 November. 

By the end of November it had developed into a conspicuous phenomenon. 

According to JD Ponthio, a tail of 15° longitude was observed on 27 November in Rome.

Above: Images of Rome (Roma), Italy (Italia)

Two days later, Arthur Storer in Maryland estimated the tail between 15° and 20°. 

Above: Arthur Storer (1648 – 1686)

In April 1681, Storer described the comet as follows:

It was a very great amazement to many and likewise to myself to see such a long bright stream then in the form like a sword streaming from the horizon about 30 degrees in altitude.

By the end of the month, increasing tail lengths, up to 36°, were being reported and the comet appeared “bigger” than a 1st magnitude star.

At the beginning of December, the comet was getting closer and closer to the Sun. 

Above: The Sun, with sunspots, 7 June 1992
The two small sunspots in the middle are about the same diameter as our planet Earth.

Johannes Hevelius (1611 – 1687) observed the comet from Danzig (Poland) on the morning of 2 December and for the next two days. 

Above: Images of Gdansk, Poland

Soon after, however, the comet could no longer be observed due to its proximity to the Sun. 

Hevelius already suspected that after passing the Sun it would become visible again. 

Above: Johannes Hevelius

On 18 December, the comet passed its closest point to the Sun (perihelion) (as seen from Earth, it passed directly behind the solar disk for three quarters of an hour starting at about 11:30 UT (Universal Time / Greenwich Observatory).

From 20 December, it could be observed in the evening sky in the southwest as a great spectacle, its tail stretched almost to the zenith (the highest point in the sky observable with the naked eye from the ground). 

The comet’s beauty was enhanced by a shimmering golden tail, it was reported. 

Above: Royal Observatory, Greenwich, England

John Flamsteed (1646 – 1719) reported on 21 December 21 a beam of light the width of the full moon extending perpendicularly from the horizon. 

Ponthio estimated the tail length on 22 December to be 70° with a latitude of 3° at its tip. 

The comet’s head was as bright as a first-magnitude star, and the tail so long that it could be seen on the northwestern horizon for five hours after the head set. 

Hevelius saw the comet again on the evening of 24 December, but he could not take exact measurements because his observatory, instruments, and books had been destroyed in a fire the year before. 

Above: John Flamsteed

In France, Jean de Fontaney (1643 – 1710) used a telescope to observe striking changes in the comet’s nucleus, possibly jets of dust and gas or fragments detaching from the nucleus. 

Robert Hooke (1635 – 1703) described something similar in England, observing a tail of 90° longitude on 28 December, extending over half the firmament (the night sky).

Above: Robert Hooke

In January 1681, the comet showed the first signs of fading, but the tail remained very long and conspicuous:

According to Flamsteed, the head was dimmer than a 3rd mag star on 5 January, but the tail still measured 55° three nights later. 

Kirch also reported a (very faint) anti-tail pointing toward the Sun on 7 January, but no one else has confirmed this observation. 

Isaac Newton saw the comet on 15 January with its 40° curved tail.

Flamsteed on January 19 compared the brightness of the comet’s head to that of a 5th magnitude star.

In early February, the comet began to slip out of sight for many observers, with Flamsteed likening its head to a 7th magnitude star on 4 February, but its tail was still visible to the naked eye.

Newton estimated it at 12° longitude on 6 February with good visibility. 

The comet was seen again by Flamsteed, Hevelius and Ponthio on 17 February.

In March it was only tracked telescopically by Newton. 

The last time he saw it, barely recognizable, was on March 19, just before midnight, just above the horizon. 

The comet reached magnitude 1–2 on 29 December 1680.

Already on the morning of 20 November 1680, the comet was seen with the naked eye from the Philippines.

Above: Flag of the Philippines

Three days later a white “broom star” with a tail of more than 1° length was reported in China.

In China, it could no longer be seen from 7 December because it had migrated too close to the Sun. 

Above: Flag of China

Shortly before passing the Sun, however, the comet is said to have been seen in the daytime sky in the Philippines on 18 December (this report is doubtful), as well as (more credibly) on the afternoon of 19 December near New York. 

Above: Manhattan, New York City, New York

The Chinese saw it again on 21 December in the evening sky with a tail over 60° long. 

On 8 January 1681, a tail of 75° longitude was observed in the Philippines.

The comet was last seen there on 14 February.

Above: (in green) The Philippines

The Tyrolean Jesuit Eusebio Francisco Kino recorded the comet’s apparent trajectory during his sea voyage to Mexico. 

He began his observations while still in Spain late in 1680, because of a late departure.

Upon his arrival in Mexico City, he published Exposición astronómica de el cometa, in which he presented his observations. 

Kino’s publication was thus one of the first scientific investigations to come out in the New World. 

Above: Father Kino

There was an argument with the Mexican polymath and astronomer Carlos de Siguenza y Góngora (1645 – 1700), who in a manifesto strongly criticized the superstition associated with the appearance of the comet.

Above: Carlos de Sigüenza y Góngora

Another Jesuit who observed and reported on the comet in Mexico was Croatian Ivan Ratkaj (1647 – 1683). 

Above: Commemorative display of Ivan Ratkaj

The Jesuit Claude Chauchetière described the concern of the population by the appearance of the comet near Montréal.

Above: Claude Chauchetière (left)

The comet had a tremendous impact on the public. 

A flood of writings and pamphlets, mostly inspired by a religiously veiled fear of comets, were still spreading during or shortly after its appearance. 

In numerous pictorial representations, the comet is mostly prominently depicted above city silhouettes, as it is admired by huge crowds of people who have gathered.

Crowds of people stood on the hills in front of the walls of Nuremberg and marvelled at the event, some with telescopes. 

The Bible refers to God’s forbearance with sinful mankind and His call to repentance in the face of “heavenly torch, rod, and sword“.

Above: The comet of 1680 over Nuremberg, Germany

Compared to the comets of previous centuries, the beginning of the Age of Enlightenment (1700) had brought about a marked change with the advent of exact science, in that even writings for the common people referred to the astronomical facts concerning the comet. 

Above: Minerva, Roman goddess of wisdom, bestows the light of knowledge, bringing the religions of the world together

However, superstition had not yet disappeared completely and most writings could not avoid going into the “meaning” of the “heavenly sign“.

Like many of its predecessors, this tailed star was also seen as a sign of the approaching end of the world, or at least as a warning from God. 

Penitential services were held in churches.

Even in Newton’s time, the comet was associated by William Whiston (1667 – 1752) with a large number of mythological and historical catastrophes, each of which should have separated by 575 years:

Above: William Whiston

  • the Deluge (2916 BCE)

  • the inundation of Ogygos (1767 BCE) 

  • the start of the Trojan War (1260 – 1180 BCE) (thought to be 1192 BCE)

Above: The burning of Troy

  • the destruction of Nineveh (617 BCE)

Above: The Fall of Nineveh

  • the year Julius Caesar (100 – 44 BCE) died (thought to be 43 BCE)

Above: The death of Julius Caesar

  • the beginning of the reign of Justinian I (482 – 565) (531) with many wars, earthquakes and plagues

Above: Mosaic of Justinian I

  • the beginning of the Crusades (1095 – 1291) (thought to be 1106)

Above: Peter the Hermit leading the First Crusade (1096 – 1099)

  • the apparition in the year 1680

In the year 2255 the end of the occidental culture (i.e. Western civilization) was to be imminent. 

This compilation was based on Edmond Halley’s (1656 – 1742) inaccurate calculation of the comet’s orbit with an arbitrarily assumed orbital period of 575 years – (Halley suspected a connection between the comet of 1106 and this one.) – and was published in the 19th century by D’Alembert (1717 – 1783) in the Encyclopédie française and rumoured in almanacs. 

Above: Edmund Halley
It was Edmund Halley, famous for predicting the return of the comet that bears his name, who three centuries ago found a way to measure the distance to the Sun and to the planet Venus.
He knew that Venus would very rarely, every 121 years, pass directly between the Earth and the Sun.
The apparent position of Venus, relative to the disc of the Sun behind it, is shifted depending on where you are on Earth.
How different that shift is depends on the distance from both Venus and the Sun to the Earth.
This rare event, the transit of Venus, occurred again on 8 June 2004.
It was knowing this fundamental distance from the Earth to the Sun that helped us find the true scale of the entire Solar System for the first time.

Above: Venus, Mariner 10 image, 8 June 2020

This nonsense only came to an end in 1816 by Johann Franz Encke’s (1791 – 1865) accurate calculations of the orbital elements of the comet of 1680 were made, which revealed that its orbital period is not 575, but almost 10,000 years.

Above: Johann Franz Encke

Numerous astronomers watched the mighty tail star with great care. 

The astronomer Johannes Kepler (1571 – 1830), who published the laws according to which planets move in elliptical orbits around the Sun in 1609, was still of the opinion that comets move in straight orbits through the universe. 

Above: Johannes Kepler

However, Giovanni Alfonso Borelli (1608 – 1679) in 1665 suspected parabolic or elliptical orbits after his observation of the comet of 1664.

Above: Giovanni Alfonso Borelli

In his Cometographia, published in 1668, Hevelius also took the view that comets move on orbits that are curved towards the Sun, but he did not yet think that these orbits orbited the Sun.

Giovanni Domenico Cassini (1625 – 1712) also took the position in a paper from 1681 that the observations from November to early December were a different comet than the one observed from late December to March. 

He couldn’t reconcile the idea of ​​a strongly curved comet’s path.

Above: Giovanni Cassini

Georg Samuel Dörffel (1643 – 1688), a cleric from Plauen (Germany), who had observed the comet from 2 to 4 December and then again from 28 December to 10 February, first raised the question of whether the orbits of the comets were not parabolas, their focus coinciding with the centre of the Sun. 

He was prompted to do so by his observations of the 1680 comet moving first towards and then away from the Sun. 

He recorded his thoughts in writing in German.

Had he written his work in Latin, it might have received more attention, perhaps also from Newton, who was also studying comets. 

Above: Georg Samuel Dörffel

Namely, Newton came to the same thought when developing his general law of gravitation. 

He came to the conclusion that the orbits of comets, like the orbits of the planets, must be ellipses with the sun at one of their focal points – not, however, almost circular ellipses, but extremely elongated ones, which means that the comets are not constantly visible, but only when they pass through the part of their orbit that is close to the sun. 

But this part, added Newton, could also be approximated by a parabola, which differs little from an eccentric ellipse near the focus.

Newton attempted to test his hypothesis with a real case. 

Above: Isaac Newton

He showed how to calculate a parabolic trajectory of a comet from three observational positions. 

As an example, he chose three points from Flamsteed’s observations of the comet in 1680 and calculated a parabolic path from them, which matched all other observations so perfectly that there was no longer any doubt that the true path of the comets had thus been discovered. 

Above: The orbit of the 1680 comet in parabolic form, from Isaac Newton’s Principia

Newton published his discovery in the Philosophiae Naturalis Principia Mathematica, published in 1687.

This also disproved the popular contemporary notion that the 1680 comet was two different comets, one moving toward the Sun in November and another moving away from the Sun beginning in December.

Numerous observers, including Johann Jacob Zimmermann (1642 – 1693) from Nuremberg, provided precise position determinations for this comet from mid-November 1680 to February 1681, so that Newton, Halley, Leonhard Euler (1707 – 1783), Alexandre Guy Pingré (1711 – 1796), Johann Franz Encke (1791 – 1865) and Jakob Philipp Wolfers (1803 – 1878) could calculate again and again similar orbital elements by the middle of the 19th century, though they resulted in very different orbital times.

Above: Johann Jakob Zimmermann

Above: Leonhard Euler

Above: Alexandre Guy Pingré

From 30 observations over 125 days, Encke was able to determine an elliptical orbit for the comet, which is inclined by around 61° to the ecliptic (the apparent orbit of the Sun through the fixed sky as seen from Earth over the course of a year).

Its orbit is thus at a steep angle to the orbital planes of the planets. 

At the point closest to the sun (perihelion), which the comet passed on 18 December 1680, it was only about 930,000 km from the centre of the Sun, which means it was only about ⅓ of the Sun’s radius above the Sun’s surface.

Although the comet was thus undeniably a sun-stroker, it is not a member of the Kreutz group – (after the astronomer Heinrich Kreutz (1854 – 1907), who was the first to recognize the group membership of a group of comets, that come very close to the Sun during their perihelion, which form a subgroup of the sungrazers (sunstrokers or sunscrapers), believed to be fragments of a much larger comet that broke up while orbiting the Sun several centuries ago.) – or any of the other major sun-stroker groups. 

Above: Heinrich Kreutz

However, Comet C/2012 S1, which dissipated just before reaching perihelion, had similar orbital elements to Comet 1680 and may have a common origin with it. 

During its passage through the inner Solar System, the comet also came relatively close to many planets on one or more occasions.

Above: Comet ISON, 8 October 2013

The two approaches to Earth correspond to distances of about 63 million km and 73 million km, respectively. 

Above: Earth, Apollo 17 image, 7 December 1972

Although the comet came relatively close to the large planets Saturn and Jupiter several times, its orbital shape remained almost unchanged. 

Above: Saturn

According to Encke’s orbital elements, as given in the JPL Small-Body Database, and without accounting for non-gravitional forces on the comet, its orbit would originally have had an eccentricity of about 0.999987 and a semimajor axis of about 465 AU, so that its orbital period would have been around 10,000 years.

Passing through the inner Solar System would have reduced its orbital eccentricity slightly to about 0.999985 and increased its semimajor axis to about 477 AU, increasing its orbital period to about 10,400 years.

In view of the relatively uncertain orbital parameters, however, all the data given should only be regarded as approximate values.

Encke himself assumed a very large degree of uncertainty for his calculation of the orbital period.

As of February 2019, the comet was about 257 au (38 billion km) from the Sun.

Basil Ringrose (1653 – 1683) was serving under buccaneer Captain Bartholomew Sharpe (1650 – 1702) and made the following observation shortly before raiding the Spanish port city of Coquimbo, Chile:

Above: Bartholomew Sharp, firing La Serena, Pirates of the Spanish Main series, Allen & Ginter Cigarettes

Above: Coquimba, Chile, 2007

Friday 19 November 1680

This morning about an hour before day we observed a comet to appear a degree N from the bright in Libra.

The body thereof seemed dull, and its tail extended itself 18 or 20 degrees in length, being of a pale colour and pointing directly NNW.

Our prisoners hereupon reported to us that the Spaniards had seen very strange sights, both at Lima, the capital city of Peru, Guayaquil, and other places, much about the time of our coming into the South Seas.

The appearance of the comet inspired Fontenelle (1657 – 1757) to write a one-act comedy, La Comète , performed at the Comédie Française in 1681, denouncing superstitions linked to astronomical events.

Above: Bernard de Bouyer de Fontenelle

On 2 January 1681, Madame de Sévigné (1626 – 1696) wrote from Paris:

We have here a comet which is also well extended. 

It has the most beautiful tail it is possible to see. 

All the great personages are alarmed and believe that the sky well occupied with their loss gives warnings by this comet.” 

Above: Marie de Rabutin-Chantal (aka Madame de Sévigné)

The enlightened Pierre Bayle (1647 – 1706) published his first book Lettre sur la comete de 1680 (“Letter on the Comet of 1680”) in 1682, which was expanded in 1683 as Pensées diverses sur la comete de 1680 (“Different Thoughts on the Comet of 1680”). 

There he contradicted the superstitious beliefs associated with comets and promoted the idea that all knowledge must be subject to constant critical scrutiny. 

Bayle defended the Christian faith, but at the same time designed the basis of a non-religious morality or ethics, whereby he assumed – contrary to the then generally held opinion – that an atheist did not necessarily have to act immorally.

Bayle elaborates a critique of superstition and tradition, criticizing the habit of the time of beginning by extrapolating on a fact before having studied it in an attempt to understand it. 

Thus, the comet arrives at the same time as terrestrial misfortunes, therefore it is the cause of them, or even announces them. 

To this Bayle replies that if the comet were a sign of impending misfortune or that it simply caused them by the fact of appearing in the sky, that would amount to saying that the man who comes out in front of his door is the cause of what so many people passed in the street where he lives.)

Above: Pierre Bayle

Like Wetter’s men, the wife and I ascended Säntis to look up at the sky.

Our adventure was advertised as a chance to view the splendour of the cosmos, an explanation of the constellations in all their glory.

Ascend at sunset, fancy dinner in the Säntis Restaurant, out to the Observation Desk to look up at the stars.

Sounded promising.

Above: Säntis

In 1802, mountain enthusiasts erected a cairn on the summit (copper engraving by Johann Baptist Isenrich and drawing by the German romantic Albert Weiler). 

Above: Johann Baptist Isenring (1796 – 1860)

In 1842 the first refuge – a wooden shack with a bar – was built near the Säntis summit on the wind-protected east side. 

This was replaced by a solid inn in 1846. 

Around 1850, when the weather was nice, up to a hundred guests, including Richard Wagner, ate there.

Above: Richard Wagner (1813 – 1883)

From 1882 until the weather station was completed in 1887, the inn also served as accommodation for the weather station. 

Around 1900, up to a thousand guests were reaching the summit every day. 

Above: Berggasthaus Alter Säntis

On the occasion of the World Economic Forum in Davos, US First Lady Hillary Clinton visited the summit of Säntis on the afternoon of 2 February 1998.

Above; Hillary Clinton, Read Across America Day, District Heights, Maryland, 2 March 1998

The mountain is well developed:

Since 1935 its summit has been accessible by cable car from Schwägalp, hiking trails from there, from Wasserauen, Wildhaus, Unterwasser or via other routes.

On 10 January 2019, during a heavy snowfall in the Alps, an avalanche coming from Säntis hit part of the Hotel at Schwägalp, which had been newly built in 2015. 

The location was previously considered avalanche safe, but in an area designated as endangered. 

A second avalanche on Säntis damaged the lowest support of the Säntisbahn on the night of 13 -14 January 2019. 

Operations had to be suspended for several months until 29 May 2019 for repairs. 

Knowing that our hotel for the night was the aforementioned Schwägalp hotel and the Säntisbahn had both been prone to avalanche damage did not engender warm and cuddly feelings within me.

The International Meteorological Congress of Rome in 1879 declared it a necessity to build weather stations on adequate and accessible summits.

Above: Attendees of the International Meteorological Congress, Rome, 1879

Therefore, the Swiss built a weather station on Säntis.

The position of the northern ridge proved to be ideal for such an endeavour.

The weather station was commissioned in autumn of 1882.

The Meteo Swiss measuring station is at an altitude of 2,501 metres above sea level. 

When the contact with the weatherman couple Heinrich and Lena Haas on the Säntis was interrupted on Tuesday, 21 February 1922, hardly anyone would have been very worried, because the telegraph and telephone line had been damaged again and again by snow load and wind.

Rather worrying was that Mrs. Haas had complained on Sunday to the wife of the Säntis porter Rusch about an uninvited guest.

On the morning of 21 February, she had sought advice from the head of the St. Gallen Telegraph Office on how best to deal with the unpleasant guest.

It was clear that it was a native Bavarian named Gregor Kreuzpointner, who had also applied with Haas in 1919 for the post of Säntis weatherman.

On Wednesday, father and son Rusch tried to climb Säntis, but had to return due to the extreme snow conditions.

It was only on Saturday that they were able to set off for the second time to the observatory on the Säntis together.

On the way they found no damage to the line.

Only an old ski track led from the mountain summit down into the valley.

Once at the top, no one was waiting for them.

No smoke rose from the fireplace.

The front door was not locked.

They only heard the pathetic whispering of the dog “Sturm“.

They found the dog trapped in the completely devastated study – and next to the standing desk lay the lifeless Lena Haas in her own blood.

Above: The study on the ground floor of the observatory with the telephone (right on the wall) and the telegraph apparatus (left on a small table).
Next to the standing desk under the window lies the body of Lena Haas.
The devastation at the scene was wreaked havoc by the storm dog, which was trapped for four days. The impact site marked with a circle comes from the murder weapon, a Browning with the caliber 7.65.” The tear-off calendar marked with a square indicates the time of the murder: 21 February 1922.

Expecting bad things, they went in search of Heinrich Haas.

They climbed up to the second floor and through the connecting tunnel to the summit plateau.

There they found the body of the weather station master in front of the wind gauge house.

Above: Police photo of the body of Heinrich Haas.
This was located on the summit plateau at the Windmesserhäuschen (wind gauge shed).
The picture was taken with a tripod, the tripod legs and their shadows are recognizable.
In this context, the Criminal Investigation Department points out that the recently purchased photo equipment with an up-to-date tripod finally enables an exact signaling of the crime scene, i.e. detailed and overview images.
On the basis of the photographic inventory, the trace of the perpetrator can be rolled up from the end point.
The photographs serve as evidence for the court.

The only possible perpetrator was the bankrupt Gregor Kreuzpointner, who was known to them and had been with them since 16 February. 

The files show that he received financial help from Heinrich Haas in order to pay his debts and buy a business from a tired shoemaker, through which he could continue to finance his expensive ventures into the mountains, where he could be his own master.

Haas was his last hope. 

It can be assumed that he did not achieve his goal and that a dispute broke out as a result of which old wounds burst open. 

He may have made Haas responsible for his unfortunate situation, because Haas had been elected Weather Warden in his place, although it was hopeless. 

A deep disappointment that reappeared, combined with anger and hatred, must have had such a destructive effect on a financially and socially unsuccessful person like Kreuzpointner that his fuse probably blew and a fatal short circuit occurred. 

Kreuzpointner was wanted as a suspected double murderer.

On the run, he managed to steal Lena’s silver jewelry.

In Heiden, under mysterious circumstances, he handed over the murder weapon – a Browning caliber 7.65 – to an uninvolved third party, who delivered the weapon to the police.

On 4 March 4, Kreuzpointner’s body was found – he had hung himself in an abandoned barn below the Schwägalp.

Since none of the affected communities agreed to bury Kreuzpointner, the body was sent to the Medical Faculty of the University of Zürich for research purposes.

Since Kreuzpointner had evaded criminal proceedings, the course of events and the motive for the crime could never be fully clarified.

Kreuzpointner was in financial difficulties, and he probably blamed Haas for his misfortune, because he had not been given the post of weatherman on Säntis three years earlier.

Above: Gregor Anton Kreuzpointner (1892 -1922).
This portrait was distributed after the double murder.
Who is their author, unfortunately, could not be clarified.

Heinrich Haas was a trained baker, but was working as a tram conductor in Zürich when he discovered the announcement of a weather station on the Säntis in a newspaper advertisement.

As a native of Appenzell and an enthusiastic mountaineer, he applied for the post without hesitation.

Above: Heinrich Haas

The position had been advertised for a married couple (which is probably why Kreuzpointner was out of the question).

Haas was the ideal candidate and so he got the job.

Above: Haas was characterized in the obituary, written by his mountain comrade Carl Egloff, as follows: “No man is perfect.
And some who knew the new weatherman only superficially may have mocked him as a “chatterer”. Admittedly, Haas liked to talk a lot, but everything he spoke testified to a profound, hot love for the mountains.

In October 1919, Heinrich moved into the observatory on the Säntis with his wife and two children.

However, the children Bertheli and Lenchen had to live with Lena Haas-Räss’s mother in the valley below during their school days.

Above: The family Haas – The older woman is probably Lena’s mother.

Above: Family Haas with two unknown men in front of the observatory

Above: The two adults obviously had enough to do at the observatory:
Here, Lena saws wood and Heinrich splits it.

Above: Heinrich saws wood as Lena observes.
On the back of this photograph and the one just above it, Heinrich Haas is explicitly mentioned as the photographer.
This would mean that the shots were taken by Haas with a self-timer.

Above: Lena cuts Heinrich’s hair as he reads the historical novel Nena Sahib about the Indian revolutionary leader.
Everywhere with Heinrich, the dog “Sturm“, who would later become the only witness to the double murder.

Above: In the study on the ground floor of the observatory were the telephone and the Morse machine. According to the caption, this photograph was taken on 4 February 1922.
Also in this picture you can see “Sturm” again.
Two and a half weeks later, Lena Haas was shot in this room and “Sturm” would “wreak havoc” next to the body of Lena Haas, as described in the police report.

Above: The instrument room was located on the 2nd floor.
From here, the connecting tunnel led to the summit plateau.

Above: Weatherman couple Haas with unknown man and three soldiers in front of the weather house, 1920.
This connecting tunnel ended under the small gable roof in the wind gauge house.
The body of weatherman Haas was later found here.

Above: The weatherman had to make sure every day that the wind gauge wheel could rotate freely and did not ice up.

Above: Haas on the wind gauge

Above: The weatherman on the roof of the observatory at work. 
At the corner, the Pluviometer for measuring the amount of precipitation.

Above: Just as important as the weatherman were the Säntisträger (porters).
They brought firewood and food to the summit.
Here, Säntisträger Rusch and his son are welcome by the weatherman.
They were later to find the murdered couple.

Above: The original grave of Lena and Heinrich Haas, Appenzell Cemetery

Above: The original grave was removed, the gravestone was converted into a memorial stone and placed near the church of Appenzell.
The inscription is incorrect:
Lena Haas was not called Helena, but Maria Magdalena.

Above: The two children Bertheli and Lenchen Haas on the summit of the Hundstein.
This photograph was probably taken only after the death of the parents:
The children are already older and they wear black clothes.

The Säntismord (Säntis Murder) is the basis of the feature film Der Berg by Markus Imhoof. 

Above: Markus Imhoof

A drama was written for the film that could take place anywhere in the world in the seclusion of a mountain. 

Although real events about the murders on the Säntis were chosen as the starting point, the ending is quite different:

One of the main characters in the film, which is also enriched with scenes of jealousy, is called Gregor Kreuzpointner and is shot by the weatherman at the end. 

This caused confusion and anger, especially in the land below the Säntis. 

In addition, it was suggested, especially in the media, that the drama on the Säntis actually took place as it is portrayed in the film.

The Säntis transmitter is a 123 meter high transmission tower made of reinforced concrete on Säntos. 

The tower is used by the Swisscom broadcast company to distribute radio and television programs throughout northeastern Switzerland and is not normally open to the public.

Guided tours are possible by prior arrangement. 

In addition, the tower handles directional radio links for television program feeds, radio broadcasting and services for the Global System for Mobile Communications (GSM) and serves as a measuring station for the Federal Office for Meteorology and Climatology.

Above: Säntis transmitter tower

In 1955, the Federal Council asked the National Council and the Council of States to approve a loan of SFR 890,000 for the construction of a telecommunications building. 

Above: Entrance to the Federal Council Chambers, Bundeshaus, Bern, Switzerland

The predecessor of today’s transmission tower on Säntis was built by the PTT (Post Telegraph and Telephone) in 1956, was 18 meters high and was officially inaugurated in 1958. 

In 1957 the first UKW (VHF) (ultra shortwave) radio station (DRS 2)(now Radio SRF 2 Kultur) went into operation. 

Above: The first transmitter in 1958

After a competition in 1968, the project contract for extensions was awarded and after two years of preparatory work, construction began in 1971, as the old transmission tower from 1955 had to be renovated several times due to the extreme weather conditions. 

In 1975 the new transmission center was put into operation. 

At that time it was the largest building of its kind in Europe. 

The television programs of French- and Italian-speaking Switzerland (Suisse / Svizzera) were rebroadcast in 1976. 

The first construction project application “Säntis 2000“, which aimed to expand the southern cavern, build a new antenna tower and renovate the weather station, was submitted in 1992. 

Above: Tunnels between mountain trails and summit structures

Work on the project began in 1995. 

In 1997, the old tower was demolished and the new, 123-meter high antenna tower was put into operation. 

The opening ceremony took place on 17 June 1998. 

As part of the restructuring of the Swisscom Group in 2002, the subsidiary Swisscom Broadcast AG became the owner of the transmission system. 

After the broadcasting of digital television (Digital Video Broadcasting – Terrestrial (DVB-T) in Switzerland) started in 2007, analogue television programs were switched off.  

On 3 June 2019, broadcasting of digital television programs ended.

The antenna of the new transmission tower is encased in glass fiber reinforced plastic and can be heated to prevent ice from falling onto the visitor terrace below. 

The diameter of the mast base, which weighs 4,164 tons , is 5.49 meters and the diameter of the spire is 1.82 meters.

A large part of central and eastern Switzerland is supplied by this transmitter. 

The transmitter can also be received in large parts of southern Germany and neighboring countries. 

In excellent conditions, the station can even be received noise-free in some parts of the German state of Hesse.

Above: Coat of arms of the German state of Hesse

There is also a radio link to the Pfänder transmitter in Austria. 

Above: Pfänder radio tower, Lochau, Vorarlberg, Austria

The Säntis Tower broadcasts five radio programs.

The Säntis transmitter is the television tower with the highest number of lightning strikes in Europe:

From summer 2010 to June 2011, around 50 strikes were registered.

With the exception of the 84-meter high antenna tower, no part of the building rises above the summit to ensure a clear view from all sides.

Above: Säntis

Today, the summit is easily accessible by aerial tramway from Schwägalp.

Above: Säntis

Säntis has been a popular destination for tourists since the mid 19th century.

However, even though many ideas to make the summit more easily accessible existed since those days, it took almost another century for them to materialize.

Many approaches, using various types of railways starting from several nearby towns, were tried, but ultimately failed.

One project planned to access Säntis from Wasserauen or Unterwasser by rack-and-pinion railway.

Above: Wasseraun (water meadows), Canton Appenzell Innerrhoden, Switzerland (Schweiz)

Above: Unterwasser (under water), Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland (Schweiz)

While the lower section of this project between Appenzell and Wasserauen was built and is still part of today’s active railway network, the rest of it was halted due to a lack of funding.

Finally, local businessman Dr. Carl Meyer of Herisau came forward with the idea to construct an aerial tramway from the base of the mountain, at Schwägalp, and build a mountain road from the nearby town of Urnäsch for easier access to its lower terminal.

Above: Urnäsch, Canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Switzerland (Schweiz)

On 22 September 1933, his project was ultimately selected for construction and Meyer was awarded with the necessary licences by the federal government.

The first cable car from Schwägalp to Säntis was built between 1933 and 1935 by Leipzig-based Bleichert Transportanlagen GmbH. 

Finally, on 1 July 1935, the aerial tramway started operations.

Above: Bleichert & Co. company logo

The original cabins were replaced by larger ones in 1960.

The entire aerial tramway installation was replaced between 1968 and 1976.

In 2000, new cabins were commissioned.

The aerial tramway Luftseilbahn Schwägalp – Säntis is one of the most frequented tramways in Switzerland.

It has a total length of 2,307 meters.

The altitude gain between the terminals is 1,123 meters.

The journey takes roughly eight minutes.

Begin with the positive.

The special Zodiac Menu Gemini at the Säntis Restaurant was truly a delightful feast:

  • Carpaccio with Schwägalp cheese
  • Säntis Riesling (wine) soup
  • Cream cheese mousse in a puffed pastry star
  • Fried char fillet
  • Pumpkin ravoli and roasted parsnips
  • Pink roasted veal tips with apple-horseradish sauce, noodles and vegetables
  • White chocolate mousse and mint muffin with mandarin parfait

It was even then an odd moment.

Corona was still a concern and everyone wore masks except when seated at the tables eating.

I had arrived back on Swiss soil, after an absence of 46 days not seeing the wife, and this evening was our first travelling adventure since my return.

Above: Aerial view of Zürich Airport

I had been living in Eskişehir since 1 March 2021, we were reunited back in Switzerland on 16 July, we travelled to and returned from the island of Elba (Italy) (26 July to 1 August), and I flew back to Turkey on 4 August.

Above: Bridge over Porsuk River, Eskişehir

There are challenges to a long-distance relationship:

  • the coping with having to say goodbye again and again
  • the potential loss of romantic feelings for your partner
  • the temptation to give up on your relationship
  • the emotional rollercoaster stages of a long distance relationship
  • the growth made while living apart and the awkwardness of getting reacquainted
  • communicating while apart
  • trusting your partner when they are away
  • the realization that most long distance relationships end

Dinner in Konstanz (Germany) on the night of my return was nice, but it was not until I was back in my bed, back in my room, back in our apartment, did the journey from Eskişehir feel completed.

Above: Rheintorturm (Rhine Gate Tower), Konstanz, Germany (Deutschland)

29 December and 30 December prior to the drive to Schwägalp were concerned with the details that real life distracts us with, especially in those terrible Corona days.

Above: View of Schwägalp from Säntis cable car

It is the oddest of sensations to simultaneously know someone intimately and yet this same person across the table from you is even more strange to you now than was ever before.

I cannot imagine what she may have been thinking of me.

I sometimes wonder if men barely exist in a woman’s world, if her dependency on a man is akin to a tourist’s dependency on an airline.

The convenience of a man is missed but is there true agony felt?

I can only hope.

We cope, we continue, in our separate lives, because time and distance cannot capture the silent tapestry that each day apart creates within each individual.

Five-minute Skype sessions cannot communicate the seamless way, the overall effects, of a life lived independently.

The pain of losing the sight and touch of a loved one being physically present becomes more and more numb as time passes.

Who is this stranger with so familiar a face and manner?

Above: Logo of Skype

In my eyes
Indisposed
In disguises no one knows
Hides the face
Lies the snake
And the sun in my disgrace
Boiling heat
Summer stench
‘Neath the black, the sky looks dead
Call my name
Through the cream
And I’ll hear you scream again

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

A black hole is a billion times larger than a sun, it’s a void, a giant circle of nothing, and then you have the Sun, the giver of all life.

It is a combination of bright and dark, this sense of hope and underlying moodiness.

Above: Simulated view of a black hole in front of the Large Magellanic Cloud galaxy

Stuttering
Cold and damp
Steal the warm wind, tired friend
Times are gone
For honest men

Above: Diogenes (412 – 323 BCE) looking for an honest man

It’s really difficult for a person to create their own life and their own freedom.

It’s going to become more and more difficult, and it’s going to create more and more disillusioned people who become dishonest and angry and are willing to f— the next guy to get what they want.

There’s so much stepping on the backs of other people in our profession.

Chris Connell

Above: Soundgarden, Black Hole Sun video


Sometimes, far too long for snakes
In my shoes
Walking sleep
In my youth, I pray to keep
Heaven send
Hell away
No one sings like you anymore

Black Hole Sun” is a song by the American rock band Soundgarden.

Written by frontman Chris Cornell, the song was released in 1994 as the 3rd single from the band’s 4th studio album Superunknown (1994).

It is one of the band’s most popular and recognizable songs.

The video follows a suburban neighborhood and its vain inhabitants with comically exaggerated grins, which are eventually swallowed up when the Sun suddenly turns into a black hole, while the band performs the song somewhere in an open field.

In the video, Cornell can be seen wearing a fork necklace given to him by Shannon Hoon of Blind Melon.

Richard Shannon Hoon (1967 – 1995) was an American singer-songwriter and musician.

He was the lead singer of the band Blind Melon from 1990 until his death in 1995.

After a disappointing performance at Numbers club in Houston on 20 October 1995, Hoon undertook an all-night drug binge.

The next day, Blind Melon was scheduled to play a show in New Orleans at Tipitina’s.

The band’s sound engineer, Lyle Eaves, went to the tour bus to awaken Hoon for a sound check, but Hoon was unresponsive.

An ambulance arrived and Hoon was pronounced dead at the scene, at the age of 28.

His death was attributed to a cocaine overdose.

Above: Richard Hoon

Christopher John Cornell ( Boyle) (1964 – 2017) was an American singer and musician best known as the lead vocalist and rhythm guitarist for the rock bands Soundgarden and Audioslave.

Above: Soundgarden, Paramount Theatre, Seattle, 2013

He also had a solo career and contributed to soundtracks.

Cornell was also the founder and frontman of Temple of the Dog, a one-off tribute band dedicated to his late friend Andrew Wood.

Above: Temple of the Dog

Andrew Patrick Wood (1966 – 1990) was an American musician.

He was the lead singer and lyricist for the alternative rock bands Malfunkshun and Mother Love Bone

During his time in Malfunkshun, Wood started relying heavily on drugs, entering rehab in 1985.

Due to his struggle with drug addiction, Wood checked himself into rehab in 1989, hoping to get clean for the release of Mother Love Bone‘s debut album.

He died in Seattle at the age of 24, after being found in a comatose state by his girlfriend following a heroin overdose.

Above: Andrew Wood (front) with Mother Love Bone in 1989

Cornell struggled with depression for most of his life.

He was found dead in his Detroit hotel room in the early hours of 18 May 2017, after performing at a Soundgarden concert an hour earlier at the Fox Theatre.

His death was ruled a suicide by hanging.

No one seems to get this, but ‘Black Hole Sun’ is sad.

Above: Chris Cornell

Now, I understand what you tried to say to me
And how you suffered for your sanity
And how you tried to set them free
They would not listen, they did not know how
Perhaps they’ll listen now

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come? (Black hole sun, black hole sun)

Hang my head
Drown my fear
Till you all just disappear

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Starry, starry night
Flaming flowers that brightly blaze
Swirling clouds in violet haze
Reflect in Vincent’s eyes of china blue

Above: Self portrait (1887), Vincent van Gogh (1853 – 1890)

Officially, the temperature atop the Mountain was -8° C, but this is no way accounts for the wind chill factor, rendering the observation terrace an extremely unpleasant -14°C (perhaps lower).

Frostbite was immediate to anyone foolish enough to leave parts of their bodies exposed to the elements.

The stars were barely perceptible with all the snow blustering about the ground.

The urge to linger and take photographs was dampened by the cold and the darkness.

Above: The “view” atop Säntis, 30 December 2021

Inside, as consolation, an audiovisual presentation solely in German.

Above: “A complete word“. Illustration of “The Awful German Language” in Mark Twain’s A Tramp Abroad

It has always amused me how nations that claim to be bilingual (such as Belgium and Canada) or multilingual (such as Switzerland and India) tend to only use the language of the locale rather than offer the polyglot possibilities of which it boasts of providing.

Above: Flag of Belgium

Above: Flag of India

I sit and watch and some of what is said filters through.

Whenever life gets you down, Mrs. Brown,
And things seem hard or tough,
And people are stupid, obnoxious or daft,

And you feel that you’ve had quite eno-o-o-o-o-ough…..

Above: Eric Idle and Terry Gilliam, “Galaxy Song” scene, Monty Python and the Meaning of Life

Just remember that you’re standing on a planet that’s evolving
And revolving at 900 miles an hour.
It’s orbiting at 19 miles a second, so it’s reckoned,
The Sun that is the source of all our power.
Now the Sun, and you and me, and all the stars that we can see,
Are moving at a million miles a day,
In the outer spiral arm, at 40,000 miles an hour,
Of a galaxy we call the Milky Way.

Our galaxy itself contains a hundred billion stars;
It’s a hundred thousand light years side to side;
It bulges in the middle sixteen thousand light years thick,
But out by us it’s just three thousand light years wide.
We’re thirty thousand light years from Galactic Central Point,
We go ’round every two hundred million years;
And our galaxy itself is one of millions of billions
In this amazing and expanding universe.

Above: The Milky Way galaxy

Our universe itself keeps on expanding and expanding,
In all of the directions it can whiz;
As fast as it can go, at the speed of light, you know,
Twelve million miles a minute and that’s the fastest speed there is.
So remember, when you’re feeling very small and insecure,
How amazingly unlikely is your birth;
And pray that there’s intelligent life somewhere out in space,
‘Cause there’s bugger all down here on Earth!

Above: Film poster in the style of Leonardo da Vinci’s “Vitruvian Man” showing an imperfect slob

Far out in the uncharted backwaters of the unfashionable end of the western spiral arm of the Galaxy lies a small disregarded yellow sun.

Orbiting this at a distance of roughly ninety-two million miles is an utterly insignificant little blue green planet whose ape-descended life forms are so amazingly primitive that they still think digital watches are a pretty neat idea.”

Above: Samsung Galaxy watches

This planet has – or rather had – a problem, which was this:

Most of the people living on it were unhappy for pretty much of the time.

Many solutions were suggested for this problem, but most of these were largely concerned with the movement of small green pieces of paper, which was odd because on the whole it wasn’t the small green pieces of paper that were unhappy.”

A concept that is always difficult to wrap my head around is the jaw-dropping idea that you and I, and everything we can observe around us, are made of the dust and gas blasted spaceward by exploding ancient stars.

And from the stardust and drifting gas, the extraordinary diversity of living things, including animals like you and me, emerged.

You and I are the cosmos ourselves.

We are stardust.

Above: The Milky Way

I came upon a child of God
He was walking along the road
When I asked him, where are you going?
This he told me
I’m going down to Yasgur’s farm
Think I’ll join a rock and roll band
I’ll camp out on the land
I’ll try and set my soul free

We are stardust, we are golden
And we’ve got to get ourselves back to the garden

Then can I walk beside you
I have come here to lose the smog
And I feel just like a cog
In something turning
Well, maybe it’s the time of year
Or maybe it’s the time of man
And I don’t know who I am
But life’s for learning

We are stardust, we are golden
And we’ve got to get ourselves back to the garden

By the time I got to Woodstock
They were half a million strong
Everywhere there were songs
And celebration
And I dreamed I saw the bombers
Riding shotgun in the sky
Turning into butterflies
Above our nation

We are stardust, we are golden
And we’ve got to get ourselves back to the garden

From the comfortable surface of Earth, our deep-thinking ancestors observed our planet and its relationship, their relationship, to the night sky and the Sun.

They learned where to live and how to survive.

From the icy blackness of space, our spacecraft, built by our best scientists and engineers, make further observations that relentlessly show us Earth is like no other place in the Solar System, and remains (as far we know at present) the only place where we can live and thrive.

By understanding the changes here over recent millennia, we can see that, if we are going to continue to thrive, we must preserve our environment.

Otherwise, we will go extinct, like 90% of the species that gave it a go on Earth before we showed up.

A cosmic perspective induces all of us to compare Earth to our neighbouring worlds out there.

It is one thing to consider Earth as a pretty big place, especially if you tried to walk around it.

It is another thing to think that 1,300 Earths would fit inside a sphere the size of Jupiter and over a million Earths would fit inside the volume of the Sun.

And this is just the Solar System.

Above: The Solar System

With 2 trillion estimated galaxies and uncountable numbers of stars, the Universe is filled with wild examples of exoplanets, stars, black holes, nebulae, galaxy clusters and more, which scientists are still probing.

Ilsa, I’m no good at being noble, but it doesn’t take much to see that the problems of three little people don’t amount to a hill of beans in this crazy world.

Someday you’ll understand that.

We did not see the stars this evening.

I rarely see the stars in the night sky here in Eskişehir.

That doesn’t matter.

We are stardust, dust in the wind, and nothing else matters.

I close my eyes
Only for a moment and the moment’s gone
All my dreams
Pass before my eyes, a curiosity
Dust in the wind
All they are is dust in the wind
Same old song
Just a drop of water in an endless sea
All we do
Crumbles to the ground, though we refuse to see
Dust in the wind
All they are is dust in the wind—-
Oh–

Don’t hang on
Nothing lasts forever but the earth and sky
It slips away
All the money won’t another minute buy
Dust in the wind
All we are is dust in the wind
Dust in the wind
All we are is dust in the wind—-

Many things are gained in the progression of one’s years: income (hopefully), experience and wisdom (often but not always), but what is most difficult about aging is what is lost: bodily certainties like constant weight, perfect eyesight, a lovely mane of hair, innocence and childlike trust and faith, a sense of wonder and awe at the glory of existence.

More importantly the losses most keenly felt are the losses of friends and family.

Parents die.

Relationships end.

Cancer strikes one and spares another.

The good die young and the evil rot away slowly.

Strokes strike suddenly and who was is now no more.

Last week at WSE in Eskişehir, the husband of one of our cleaners gone.

At Yavuzçehre, in Denizli, last week a beloved colleague died from uninvited, unexpected brain hemorrhaging.

Yesterday here, today away.

Every moment is precious.

Everyone is precious.

Live each moment as if it were your last, their last.

It might very well be.

So close, no matter how far
Couldn’t be much more from the heart
Forever trusting who we are
And nothing else matters

Never opened myself this way
Life is ours, we live it our way
All these words, I don’t just say
And nothing else matters

Trust I seek and I find in you
Every day for us something new
Open mind for a different view
And nothing else matters

Never cared for what they do
Never cared for what they know
But I know

So close, no matter how far
It couldn’t be much more from the heart
Forever trusting who we are
And nothing else matters

Never cared for what they do
Never cared for what they know
But I know

I never opened myself this way
Life is ours, we live it our way
All these words, I don’t just say
And nothing else matters

Trust I seek and I find in you
Every day for us something new
Open mind for a different view
And nothing else matters

Never cared for what they say
Never cared for games they play
Never cared for what they do
Never cared for what they know
And I know, yeah, yeah

So close, no matter how far
Couldn’t be much more from the heart
Forever trusting who we are
No, nothing else matters

Colors changing hue
Morning fields of amber grain
Weathered faces lined in pain
Are soothed beneath the artist’s loving hand

Above: Wheatfield with crows, Vincent van Gogh, 1890

Now, I understand, what you tried to say to me
How you suffered for your sanity
How you tried to set them free
They would not listen, they did not know how
Perhaps they’ll listen now

For they could not love you
But still your love was true
And when no hope was left inside
On that starry, starry night

You took your life as lovers often do
But I could have told you, Vincent
This world was never meant for one
As beautiful as you

Above: Head of a skeleton with burning cigarette, Vincent van Gogh, 1886

Starry, starry night
Portraits hung in empty halls
Frameless heads on nameless walls
With eyes that watch the world and can’t forget

Above: The night café, Vincent van Gogh, 1888

Like the strangers that you’ve met
The ragged men in ragged clothes
The silver thorn of bloody rose
Lie crushed and broken on the virgin snow

Above: Sorrowing old man at Eternity’s Gate, Vincent van Gogh, 1890

Now, I think I know what you tried to say to me
How you suffered for your sanity
How you tried to set them free
They would not listen, they’re not listening still
Perhaps they never will

Above: Prisoners’ round, Vincent van Gogh, 1890

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Lonely Planet, The Universe / photobibliothek.ch, “Double murder on the Säntis in 1922” / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Douglas Adams, The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy / Stephen Blake, Loving Your Long Distance Relationship / Humphrey Bogart, Casablanca / Eric Idle, “The Galaxy Song“, Monty Python and the Meaning of Life / Kansas, Dust in the Wind / Metallica, Nothing Else Matters / Don McLean, Vincent / Joni Mitchell, Woodstock / Soundgarden, Black Hole Sun / Esther Vilar, The Manipulated Man

Swiss Miss and the Birthplace of Beauty

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Wednesday 29 June 2022

Time and distance do not enhance relationships.

Certainly this can be said for all sorts of relationships – romantic or platonic, friends or family.

What is essential in these relationships separated by time and distance is communication.

Sadly, not every two people excel at intercommunication.

This is true about my platonic friendship with Heidi Hoi / Swiss Miss.

This is true when I attempt to recapture the essence of her travels in lands as yet unvisited by me.

But the travel discoveries she made (and the discoveries I have made in my research about those travels) still bear mention, which is why I persevere in these blogpost descriptions.

Part of the challenge is that time has passed and memories have faded since her travels, so there are moments I need to imagine the exact routing she may have followed in her journey or conversely what route I might have followed had I been in her shoes instead.

I know from records kept that the next phase of her travels in Vietnam was from Ninh Binh to Vinh.

What I don’t know is what exactly transpired on that day nor whether she diverged from the direct path between these Vietnamese cities.

So I am compelled to write of what I would have seen had I been there until I can return in confidence to the better documented portions of her travels.

Above: Flag of Vietnam

Ninh Binh to Vinh, Vietnam, Tuesday 26 March 2019

The world on this day was, as usual, a troubled place:

  • According to Israel Today, a senior Hamas official, speaking on condition of anonymity, claimed that Iran’s rulers ordered the rocket attack on Mishmeret in central Israel on 25 March 2019, which injured seven Israelis.

Above: A house is taken care of by the Fire Department after being hit by rocket fire coming from the Gaza Strip, Moshav Herut

Above: Flag of Hamas

Above: Mishmeret

The rocket attack was carried out by the Islamic Jihad Movement in Palestine, which is alleged to be heavily financed by Iran.

Above: Islamic Jihad Movement logo

Above: Flag of Iran

The Hamas official said that Hamas’s goal was to hurt Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu’s chances of getting reelected in the elections of 9 April 2019.

(Netanyahu remained in power until 13 June 2021.)

Above: Benjamin Netanyahu

  • An airstrike carried out in northwest Yemen killed seven and injured eight others at a Kitaf hospital.

Above: Flag of Yemen

The airstrike occurred early when patients and staff members were arriving.

A charity has condemned an air strike near a hospital in rebel-held northwestern Yemen that killed at least eight people, five of them children.

A missile hit a petrol station 50 metres / 164 feet from the entrance of the Kitaf rural hospital on Tuesday morning, according to Save the Children.

The blast also injured eight people.

It was not clear who was behind the attack, but a Saudi-led coalition is carrying out air strikes in support of the government in Yemen’s civil war.

The coalition insists it never deliberately targets civilians, but human rights groups have accused it of bombing markets, schools, hospitals and residential areas.

Above: Flag of Saudi Arabia

Tuesday was the 4th anniversary of the escalation of the civil war, which has killed thousands and pushed millions to the brink of starvation.

Above: Ongoing conflicts around the world – Major wars: 10,000+ deaths per year (brown) / Wars: 1,000 – 9,999 deaths per year (red) / Minor conflicts: 100 – 999 deaths per year (orange) / Skirmishes and clashes: 10 – 99 deaths per year (yellow)

Save the Children says the petrol station in the area, which is 60km (40 miles) from the city of Saada, was struck by a missile at about 09:30 (06:30 GMT) on Tuesday, as many people were arriving at the nearby hospital.

An eight-year-old boy was the youngest person killed.

Another boy aged 10, two boys aged 12, and one boy aged 14 also lost their lives.

One injured health worker, who was in the emergency room treating two young children when the strike happened, said:

All people were screaming and running out of the hospital.

The structure of the hospital was totally damaged inside.

Our colleague lost two children.

They were burned.

I got injured in my head and I was bleeding.

I ran away from the hospital with my colleague to a safe place but we found nothing that could help me stop the bleeding.

It was the most difficult moment of my life.

Helle Thorning-Schmidt, the chief executive of Save the Children International, said she was “shocked and appalled by this outrageous attack” on a medical facility that the charity supported, and she demanded an urgent investigation.

Innocent children and health workers have lost their lives in what appears to been an indiscriminate attack on a hospital in a densely populated civilian area.

Attacks like these are a breach of international law.”, she added.

Above: Helle Thorning-Schmidt

This hospital was “de-conflicted“, which means all the warring parties were made aware of its location and were obliged to avoid it by a radius of 100m.

Residents and the rebel Houthi movement blamed the Saudi-led coalition for the attack.

Save the Children noted that the only warring party with access to planes that can carry out air strikes is the coalition.

The rebel-run health ministry condemned the “coalition’s continued disregard for Yemeni lives” and said it had committed four war crimes in targeting the hospital.

There was no immediate comment from coalition officials.

Above: Houthi movement banner

Save the Children reported on Monday that at least 226 Yemeni children had been killed and 217 more injured in air raids carried out by the Saudi-led coalition in the past year (2018 – 2019).

(The Yemeni Civil War is an ongoing multilateral civil war that began in late 2014 mainly between the Abdrabbuh Mansur Hadi-led Yemeni government and the Houthi armed movement, along with their supporters and allies.

Both claim to constitute the official government of Yemen.

According to the UN, over 150,000 people have been killed in Yemen, as well as estimates of more than 227,000 dead as a result of an ongoing famine and lack of healthcare facilities due to the war.

In 2018, the United Nations warned that 13 million Yemeni civilians face starvation in what it says could become “the worst famine in the world in 100 years“.

Above: Flag of the United Nations

The crisis has only begun to gain as much international media attention as the Syrian civil war in 2018.

The international community has condemned the Saudi Arabian-led bombing campaign, which has included widespread bombing of civilian areas inside the Houthi-controlled western part of Yemen.

According to the Yemen Data Project, the bombing campaign has killed or injured an estimated 19,196 civilians as of March 2022.

The United States has provided intelligence and logistical support for the Saudi-led campaign, which continues despite the Biden Administration’s pledges to withdraw US support for Saudi Arabia in the Yemen War.)

Above: US President Joe Biden

  • The death toll of the floods and landslide in Jayapura, Indonesia, rose to 113.

Above: An airplane hanger brought down by flash floods sits in the mud in Sentani, Papua province, Indonesia.

At least 94 others are still missing. 

The Indonesian Red Cross is continuing search and rescue efforts in the wake of devastating floods that killed at least 113 people in the eastern province of Papua, with almost 100 still missing more than a week after the disaster struck.

Above: Flag of the Indonesian province of Papua

More than 11,500 people were displaced in flash floods and a subsequent landslide in the Sentani area of the provincial capital, Jayapura, earlier this month.

As many as 94 people remain missing, according to state media TVRI, and a state of emergency will remain in place until Friday.

Indonesian Search and Rescue teams (TIMSAR) are still searching the affected area for survivors, according to Christa Stefanie, a spokeswoman from Tangan Pengharapan, an Indonesian social enterprise.

Continued heavy rains have increased the likelihood of another flash flood, she said, adding that the conditions have slowed the search for the remaining missing people.

The landslides caused by this flash flood covered the entire area with mud.

This greatly slows down the searching process, especially since the government avoids using heavy machinery in some areas in fear of injuring the survivors.

Above: Logo of the Indonesian Search and Rescue

At a coordination meeting held over the weekend, Indonesian Red Cross (PMI) head Sunarbowo Sandi told local media that workers were focused on “efforts to speed up handling and support for the rescue operations by the PMI during the emergency response period“.

Rosemarie North, of the International Red Cross, told CNN that aid workers have been distributing baby kits, buckets, tarpaulins and kitchen supplies.

Volunteers are also helping dig and maintain latrines for displaced people, she added.

Stefanie, the Tangan Pengharapan official, added that clothing, food and other essentials are being donated by other organizations.

Some areas of Papua province received more than 18 inches (450 millimeters) of rain over three three days.

However authorities could not reach some of the hardest-hit areas because of downed trees, damaged roads and detritus blocking their paths.

The Papua provincial government has pledged to relocate residents living in the Cycloop mountains region, where deforestation was identified as the main reason for the floods.

Above: A car sits abandoned in the mud on a flooded street.

The province’s deputy governor, Klemen Tinal, said that the government had asked residents to stop logging activities in the Cycloop nature reserve area, according to CNN affiliate CNN Indonesia.

People should be aware that in the future they will not carry out activities in the Cycloop area.

Flash floods cannot be considered ordinary.”, he said.

  • The death toll from flash flooding in Iran rose to 21.

From mid-March to April 2019, widespread flash flooding affected large parts of Iran, most severely in Golestan, Fars, Khuzestan, Lorestan, and other provinces.

Iran was hit by three major waves of rain and flooding over the course of two weeks which led to flooding in at least 26 of Iran’s 31 provinces. 

At least 70 people died nationwide as of 6 April, according to officials.

The first wave of rain began on 17 March, leading to flooding in two northern provinces, Golestan and Mazandaran with the former province receiving as much as 70% of its average annual rainfall in single day. 

Several large dams overflowed, particularly in Khuzestan and Golestan.

As a result, many villages and several cities were evacuated.

About 1,900 cities and villages across the country were damaged by severe flooding as well as hundreds of millions of dollars of damage to infrastructure.

78 roads were blocked and the reliability of 84 bridges was questioned.

The severity of the floods was greatly increased by converting flood routes and dry river beds for urban development without providing proper drainage infrastructure.

Above: Flooding in Aqqala, Golestan, Iran

According to an Iranian official, due to record rainfalls, more than 140 rivers burst their banks and about 409 landslides happened in the country.

The impact of the floods was heightened because of the Nowruz holiday.

Above: Safavid King Shah Abbas II (1632 – 1666) celebrates Nowruz (Persian New Year)

Many Iranians were travelling and many deaths occurred due to flash flooding on roads and highways.

Around 12,000 km of roads were damaged by the flooding, about 36% of Iran’s national road network.

The floods caused at least $2.2 billion (2019 USD) in damages, mostly due to losses in the agricultural industry.

Further, according to the Red Crescent, two million people were in need of humanitarian aid due to the devastating floods.

Above: Flag of the Red Crescent (Islam’s equivalent of the Red Cross)

Civil and armed forces were mobilized as of 24 March at the bequest of Ali Khamenei, Iran’s Supreme Leader, and Vice President Eshaq Jahangiri.

Several ministers as well as army commanders travelled to the areas affected by floods. 

However, the lack of government aid and delayed response in the first days quickly heightened political tensions throughout the nation.

Above. Iranian Supreme Leader Ali Khamenei

Above: Iranian Vice President Eshaq Jahangiri

Many Iranians, including politicians, took to social media platforms to criticize the handling of the floods by the government, specifically President Hassan Rouhani.

Civilian outrage ultimately led to deadly clashes between protesters and government soldiers.

The floods prompted a large outcry against the government rule, which was perceived as worsening the floods through destructive measures, such as the destruction of natural plant coverage, obstruction of flood outlets, and converting flood routes and dry river beds to residential areas following the Islamic Revolution.

Above: Hassan Rouhani, former President of Iran (2013 – 2021)




  • The Spanish Audiencia Nacional revealed that an attack on the North Korean embassy in Madrid on 22 February was led by a Mexican citizen residing in the US who later offered the FBI data stolen during the incident. 

Above: Audiencia Nacional (National Court) building in Madrid, Spain

Above: Flag of North Korea

Above: Embassy of North Korea, Madrid

Spain has issued at least two international arrest warrants for members of a self-proclaimed human rights group who allegedly led a mysterious raid at the North Korean Embassy in Madrid last month and offered the FBI stolen data from the break-in.

A National Court judge who lifted a secrecy order in the case Tuesday said an investigation of the 22 February attack uncovered evidence that “a criminal organization” shackled and gagged embassy staff members before escaping with computers, hard drives and documents.

The intruders also urged North Korea’s only accredited diplomat in Spain, business envoy So Yun Sok, to defect, Judge Jose de la Mata said in a written report on the Spanish investigation.

So refused to do so and was gagged, according to the report.

Above: Flag of Spain

The assailants identified themselves as “members of an association or movement of human rights for the liberation of North Korea”.

That group is the Cheollima Civil Defense, now called Free Joseon, according to a US official who spoke on condition of anonymity to discuss details of the incident.

The shadowy activists have the self-declared mission of helping defectors from North Korea.

Above: Logo of Free Joseon

De la Mata identified citizens of Mexico, the United States and South Korea as the main suspects being investigated on charges that include of causing injuries, making threats and burglary.

Above: Flag of Mexico

He named Adrian Hong Chang, a Mexican citizen living in the United States, as the break-in’s leader.

Above: Adrain Hong Chang

Hong Chang flew to the US on 23 February, got in touch with the FBI and offered to share material and videos with federal investigators, according to the court report.

The document did not say what type of information the items contained or whether the FBI accepted the offer.

The FBI said in a statement that its standard practice is to neither confirm nor deny the existence of investigations.

The agency added that “the FBI enjoys a strong working relationship with our Spanish law enforcement partners”.

An official with Spain’s National Police who wasn’t authorized to be named in media reports confirmed to the Associated Press that arrest warrants were issued for Hong Chang and one other suspect.

No one had been charged as of Tuesday.

The assailants purchased knives and handgun mock-ups when they visited Madrid in early February and used them during the attack, according to the investigation document.

While in Madrid, Hong Chang also applied for a new passport at the Mexican Embassy, the investigation found, and used the name “Oswaldo Trump” to register in the Uber ride-hailing app.

Above: Mexican Embassy, Madrid

The North Korean Embassy hasn’t pressed charges in Spain.

Officials in Pyongyang haven’t officially commented on the attack.

Spanish police learned about the break-in after the wife of an embassy employee escaped by jumping from a window.

When officers went to check on the situation, Hong Chang allegedly greeted them at the door and pretended to be a diplomatic official, the investigation found.

He sent the officers away with assurances everything was fine, paving the way for the invading group to make a getaway in the embassy’s cars.

A police investigator with knowledge of the case told the Associated Press (AP) that:

Above: Logo of the Associated Press

This attack, whatever it is, would have gone unnoticed if it wasn’t for the woman who escaped”.

Above: A van with diplomatic plaque exits the North Korean Embassy, 13 March 2019

So, the North Korean diplomat, didn’t respond to written questions from the Associated Press and declined to talk to reporters during a recent encounter outside the Madrid embassy.

The timing of the incident, which happened less than a week before a high-stakes US-North Korea summit on denuclearization derailed in Hanoi on 28 February, led to speculation the incursion was carried out to obtain data related to North Korea’s former ambassador to Spain.

Kim Hyok Chol, who was expelled from Spain in September 2017 following Pyongyang’s 6th nuclear test and its missile launches over neighboring Japan, has become North Korea’s top nuclear negotiator with the US.

Above: Kim Hyok Chol

Asked if Washington had any connection to the embassy break-in, US State Department spokesman Robert Palladino answered:

The United States government had nothing to do with this.

Palladino said that:

Regarding the specifics of what’s going on, the Spanish authorities are investigating.

The investigation is still underway.

For any details on their investigation, I would have to refer you to Spanish authorities.”

The South Korean Embassy in Madrid said it had no knowledge of the events and couldn’t offer further comment.

Others identified as part of the assailants’ group were Sam Ryu, from the US, and Woo Ran Lee, a South Korean citizen.

Above: Flag of South Korea

Their whereabouts and their hometowns weren’t immediately known.

None of the suspects were thought to be still in Spain, the judge wrote.

Spanish authorities tried to keep information about the attack from becoming public until Spain’s El Confidencial news site revealed some details on 27 February.

Above: Logo of El Confidencial

Last week, the rights group that allegedly led the attack posted a short video on its website allegedly showing a man shattering portraits of late North Korean leaders Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il on the floor.

The group said the video was filmed recently “on our homeland’s soil,” wording that would accurately apply to the North Korean Embassy in Madrid.

Above: Kim Il Sung (1912 – 1994)

Above: Kim Jong Il (1941 – 2011)

Algeria’s Chief of Staff of the People’s National Army Ahmed Gaid Salah, the highest-ranked military official in the country, gave a televised address, calling on President Abdelaziz Bouteflika to resign or be declared “unfit to serve” by the People’s National Assembly.

Algeria’s army chief of staff has demanded President Abdelaziz Bouteflika be declared unfit to rule after weeks of protests against him.

Speaking on television, Lt Gen Ahmed Gaed Salah said:

“We must find a way out of this crisis immediately, within the constitutional framework.”

Above: Flag of Algeria

The President has already agreed not to stand for a 5th term in upcoming elections, which have been delayed.

Demonstrators accuse the 82-year-old of a ploy to prolong his 20-year rule.

Talks have been set up to oversee the country’s political transition, draft a new constitution and set the date for elections.

But they do not yet have a date to start.

Above: Abdelaziz Bouteflika (1937 – 2021)

Protests against Bouteflika began last month after the President, who has rarely been seen in public since suffering a stroke in 2013, said he planned to stand for another term.

But people continued to march even after he agreed not to stand, instead demanding immediate change.

Salah – who is also deputy defence minister and seen as loyal to Bouteflika – previously said the military and the people had a united vision of the future, hinting at the armed forces’ support for the demonstrators.

Above: General Ahmed Gaid Salah

Salah said the Constitution was “the only guarantee to preserve a stable political situation“, and called for the use of Article 102, which allows the Constitutional Council to declare the position of President vacant if the leader is unfit to rule.

This solution achieves consensus and must be accepted by all.”, he said to the applause of officers watching the speech.

Above: Emblem of Algeria

Under the Constitution, the head of the Senate, Abdelkader Bansallah, would become the acting head of state until an election could be held.

Reports suggest the Constitutional Council is now holding a special meeting after the speech.

Above: Abdelkader Bansallah (1941 – 2021)

The dramatic intervention by the armed forces chief of staff is the latest development after weeks of sustained protest in Algeria.

Earlier in March 2019, Prime Minister Ahmed Ouyahia announced his resignation and was replaced by Interior Minister Noureddine Bedoui.

Above: Ahmed Ouyahia

Above: Noureddine Bedoui

(The 2019–2021 Algerian protests, also called the Revolution of Smiles or the Hirak Movement, began on 16 February 2019, six days after Abdelaziz Bouteflika announced his candidacy for a 5th presidential term in a signed statement.

These protests, without precedent since the Algerian Civil War, were peaceful and led the military to insist on Bouteflika’s immediate resignation, which took place on 2 April 2019.

By early May, a significant number of power-brokers close to the deposed administration, including the former President’s younger brother Said, had been arrested.

The rising tensions within the Algerian regime can be traced back to the beginning of Bouteflika’s rule which has been characterized by the state’s monopoly on natural resources revenues used to finance the government’s clientelist system and ensure its stability.

The major demonstrations took place in the largest urban centers of Algeria from February to December 2019.

Due to their significant scale, the protests attracted international media coverage and provoked reactions from several heads of states and scholarly figures.)

Did the Algerian protests, the attack on the North Korean embassy in Madrid, flooding in Indonesia and Iran, or the attacks in Israel and Yemen have any affect whatsoever on the lives of Swiss Miss and her fellow travel companion from Argentina?

Doubtful.

Does a recounting of these events have any impact whatsoever on those who are reading this blogpost now?

Also doubtful.

Then why do I speak of these events three years and three months past?

To put things into context.

On a visit to Turkey, travel writer Rick Steeves met a dervish.

Above: Flag of Turkey

Above: Rick Steeves

Dervishes – a sort of Muslim monk – follow Rumi, a mystic poet and philosopher of divine love.

Above: Statue of Rumi, Buca, Izmir, Turkey

They are called “whirling dervishes“, because they spin in a circle as they pray.

The dervish allowed Rick to observe his ritual on the condition that he understood what it meant to him.

The dervish led Rick to his flat rooftop – a peaceful oasis in the noisy city of Konya – where he prayed five times a day.

Above: Konya, Turkey

With the sun heavy and red on the horizon, the dervish explained:

When we pray, we keep one foot in our community, anchored in our home.

The other foot steps around and around, acknowledging the beautiful variety of God’s creation…..touching all corners of this great world.

I raise one hand up to acknowledge the love of God.

The other hand goes down like the spout of a teapot.

As I spin around, my hand above receives the love from our Creator and my hand below showers it onto all of His creation.

As the dervish whirled and whirled, he settled into a meditative trance.

And so did Rick.

Watching his robe billow out and his head tilt over, Rick saw a conduit of love acknowledging the greatness of God.

The dervish was so different from Rick, yet actually very much the same.

This chance interaction left Rick with a renewed appreciation of the rich diversity of humanity, as well as its fundamental oneness.

Experiences like Rick’s can be any journey’s most treasured souvenir.

When we return home, we can put what we have learned – our newly acquired broader perspective – to work as citizens of our great nations confronted with unprecedented challenges.

And when we do that, we make travel a political act.

She can see by her watch, without taking her hand from the left grip of the cycle, that it is 0830 in the morning.

The wind, even at 100 km an hour, is warm and humid.

When it is this hot and muggy at 0830, she wonders what it is going to be like in the afternoon.

You see things vacationing on a motorcycle in a way that is completely different from any other.

In a car you are always in a compartment.

And because you are used to it you don’t realize that through that car everything you see is just more TV.

You are a passive observer.

It is all moving by you boringly in a frame.

On a cycle the frame is gone.

You are completely in contact with it all.

You are in the scene, not just watching it any more.

The sense of presence is overwhelming.

That concrete whizzing by five inches below your foot, the same stuff you walk on, it is right there, so blurred you can’t focus on it.

Yet you can put your foot down and touch it anytime.

The whole thing, the whole experience, is never removed from immediate consciousness.

Their plans are deliberately indefinite, more to travel than to arrive anywhere.

They are just vacationing.

Secondary roads are preferred.

Paved county roads are the best, state highways are next.

Freeways are the worst.

They want to make good time, but for now distance is measured with the emphasis on “good” rather than “time”.

When you make that shift in emphasis the whole approach changes.

Twisting hilly roads are long in terms of seconds but are much more enjoyable on a cycle where you bank into turns and don’t get swung from side to side in any compartment.

Roads with little traffic are more enjoyable, as well as safer.

These roads are truly different from the main ones.

The whole pace of life and personality of the people who live along them are different.

They’re not going anywhere.

They’re not too busy to be courteous.

The here-ness and now-ness of things is something they know all about.

It’s the others, the ones who moved to the cities years ago and their lost offspring, who have all but forgotten it.

Conned, perhaps, into thinking that the real action was metropolitan and all this was just boring hinterland.

It is a puzzling thing.

The truth knocks on the door and you say:

``Go away, I’m looking for the truth.”

And so it goes away.

Puzzling.


But once you catch on, of course, nothing can keep you off these roads.

You become real secondary-road motorcycle buffs and find there are things you learn as you go.

You learn how to spot the good roads on a map.

If the line wiggles, that’s good.

That means hills.

If it appears to be the main route from a town to a city, that’s bad.

The best ones always connect Nowhere with Nowhere and have an alternate that gets you there quicker.

The main skill is to keep from getting lost.

Unless you’re fond of hollering you don’t make great conversations on a running cycle.

Instead you spend your time being aware of things and meditating on them.

On sights and sounds, on the mood of the weather and things remembered, on the machine and the countryside you’re in, thinking about things at great leisure and length without being hurried and without
feeling you’re losing time.


We’re in such a hurry most of the time we never get much chance to talk.

The result is a kind of endless day-to-day shallowness, a monotony that leaves a person wondering years later where all the time went and sorry that it’s all gone.

What’s new?” is an interesting and broadening eternal question, but one which, if pursued exclusively, results only in an endless parade of trivia and fashion, the silt of tomorrow.

Instead, let us consider “What is best?’‘, a question which cuts deeply rather than broadly, a question whose answers tend to move the silt downstream.

There are eras of human history in which the channels of thought have been too deeply cut and no change was possible, and nothing new ever happened, and “best” was a matter of dogma, but that is not the situation now.

Now the stream of our common consciousness seems to be obliterating its own banks, losing its central direction and purpose, flooding the lowlands, disconnecting and isolating the highlands and to no particular purpose other than the wasteful fulfillment of its own internal momentum.

Some channel deepening seems called for.

Contrary to conventional wisdom, history is practical.

Yesterday’s history informs today’s news, which in turn becomes tomorrow’s destiny.

Those with a knowledge of history can understand current events in a broader context and respond to them thoughtfully.

As you travel, opportunities to enjoy history are everywhere.

Work on cultivating a general grasp of the sweep of history and you will be able to infuse your sightseeing with more meaning.

Travel, along with a sense of history, helps us better understand the world’s complexity.

News in modern times is history in the making and travellers are eyewitnesses to history as it unfolds.

But tourists rarely grasp what is going on or what happened where they are.

They are preoccupied with trivialities – forgotten camera batteries, a thirst for a Coke, complaints about the weather, the impossibility of coping with the incomprehensible.

Mainstream tourism does not encourage thought.

For many people – who I cannot and will not condemn, for they have worked hard for their well-deserved leisure – travel is only about having fun in the sun, shopping duty free, cashing in frequent flier miles.

But this is a distraction from the real thrills, rewards and value of travel.

Travel – life itself – should educate us, engage us with challenges, wherein the past helps us understand the present and the moment strengthens us for the future.

The more you know, the more you strive to learn, the richer your travels, your life, becomes.

We must somehow figure out how to be a dominion, a democracy, of intellect.

Knowledge must sit in the homes and the heads of individuals with no ambition to control others or to sit up in the isolated seats of power.

Only if the adventures of knowing and understanding are shared as widely as possible is civilization truly viable.

In the end, the goal is not an aristocracy of experts on whom we must depend, but on them and ourselves.

We make true progress when we are engaged with what we have set for ourselves to do.

Each of us should welcome knowledge and understanding, so we can one day make the finest contribution our talents and efforts can fashion.

One has to admire Vietnam – despite, or perhaps because of, its tumultuous history – for it is a resilient nation.

It is a land of emerald paddy fields and white sandy beaches, of cities of choas and sanctuaries of silence, of caves deep and mountains lofty.

Visitors are met with warmth and curiosity and a hunger for connectiveness.

The land has seen such darkness and yet its fire is never diminished.

It is a mere 48 minutes / 30 km from Ninh Binh to Phat Diem, so for those for wheels it is not a major bother to tear oneself away from Highway 1 hellbent for HCMC (Ho Chi Minh City).

Detours and diversions are the point of travel, not the distances nor the destinations.

Above: National Highway #1, Vietnam

In 1821, King Minh Mang travelled to the North to visit Ngoc My Nhan Mountain and had these words engraved on the cliff:

Building a small house to rest, when going up the mountain to see the pagodas and towers of the mountain, the masts of the river, the scenery is picturesque, bending down to wash the dusty clothes of life.

Above: Portrait of Minh Mang

Returning to the capital, King Minh Mang was interested in agriculture, and proposed a policy of reclamation including two forms of plantations and joint plantations. 

The entrepreneurs were immigrants who set up new hamlets. 

Above: Ngoc My Nhan Mountain

The King sent Nguyen Cong Tru to Ninh Binh to found a porcelain business and to recruit poor people to reclaim the coastal area.

Nguyen Cong Tru (1778 – 1858) was a politician, military man and poet during the Nguyen dynasty. 

He served as a mandarin through the reigns of Kings Gia Long (1762 – 1820), Minh Mang (1791 – 1841), Thieu Tri (1807 – 1847) and Tu Duc (1829 – 1883). 

Tru was distinguished by the reclamation of people in North Vietnam.

He made many victories in suppressing the uprisings against the imperial court and in the Vietnamese – Siamese War (1841 – 1845).

Above: Statue of Nguyen Cong Tru made of bronze, located in the main yard of Nguyen Cong Tru Secondary School, Hanoi

By the end of 1829, Nguyen Cong Tru had cultivated 14,620 acres of land and settled 1,268 people, creating a land that was stable.

King Minh Mang established a new district named Kim Son (golden forest). 

Nguyen Cong Tru also created a dense population cluster in the district of Phat Diem:

The birthplace of beauty.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

According to Nguyen Cong Tru, when he passed through Ninh Binh Province, he discovered that Canh Dieu Mountain looks like a picture of a naked girl lying on her back looking at the immense sky and clouds, facing the East Sea, so he named the district Phat Diem:

The place where the beauty emanates.

Phat Diem tile-roofed bridge is a unique construction, which has been printed on Vietnamese postage stamps. 

The bridge is located across the An River in the center of Phat Diem town. 

Phat Diem tiled bridge has the architecture of “upper communal house of Ha Kieu” meaning that the upper house is the communal house, the bottom is the bridge. 

Compared with five ancient tile bridges remaining in Vietnam, Phat Diem tile bridge has a rather large length, 36 metres, divided into three spans, each span has four compartments.

In addition to Phat Diem tile bridge in Kim Son, there are two tile-roofed bridges Luu Quang and Hoa Binh tile-roofed bridges both across the An River.

On both sides of Phat Diem tile bridge, there are two rows of railings and columns made of ironwood. 

On the bridge is the roof is covered with the traditional red tile of the Northern Delta. 

The walkway at both ends of the bridge has three steps. 

Compared with Hoi An Bridge Pagoda and Thanh Toan Tile Bridge, Phat Diem Tile Bridge has a light and elegant appearance, showing special creative talents.

This is considered a rare bridge and has high artistic value among the ancient bridges in Vietnam. 

The bridge has both a traffic function and an ancient roof.

Moreover, it is a stopover to avoid rain and sun, and a place for couples to date.

There is a folk saying “South Bridge, North Pagoda, Doai Communal House ” to praise the architectural beauty of ancient bridges in Son Nam, including Phat Diem Tile Bridge in Kim Son, Tra La Bridge in Ninh Binh City and the East Bridge in the ancient capital of Hoa Lu. 

Kim Son district was once a coastal marshy land.

Nguyen Cong Tru established a hamlet, dike, and sea encroachment in 1829.

The An River, flowing through Phat Diem town, is an irrigation project supplying water to irrigate the fields for the people.

This river was difficult for people to travel, so Nguyen Cong Tru built a bridge connecting the two banks of the An River. 

Initially, the bridge was built with the trunks of big trees, large wooden boards, and wide bridges to help people travel easily. 

Later, the bridge was damaged after a long time of use, so in 1902 this bridge was replaced with a tile bridge.

After nearly 200 years, Phat Diem tile bridge today still retains its original appearance.

Phat Diem Tile Bridge has been designated an Architectural Art Monument in 2018. 

Above: An River

Phat Diem Cathedral (commonly known as Phat Diem Stone Church ) is a Catholic church complex of about 22 hectares, located in Phat Diem town, Kim Son district, Ninh Binh province, about 120 km from Hanoi. southward. 

The complex of works here was built in 1875 and completed in 1899. 

The cathedral at the centre, now the cathedral of Phat Diem Diocese in North Vietnam, was completed in 1891.

The unique feature of these works is that the Catholic church is built entirely of stone and wood, according to ancient Vietnamese architecture, bearing the appearance of traditional communal houses, temples, pagodas and palaces. 

This architectural complex was gradually presided over by Father Peter Tran Luc, priest of the Diocese of West Tonkin since 1865 and a local community leader for more than 20 years.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

Peter Tran Luc ( Tran Van Huu) (1825 – 1899), also known by the nickname Sau , was a Vietnamese Catholic priest.

He was famous as a zealous missionary who started the construction of Phat Diem Cathedral.

Tran was born in My Quan village, Cao Vinh canton, Nga Son district, Thanh Hoa province. 

He was the second child in a family of seven children (five boys and two girls). 

At baptism, he was christened Peter. 

In 1840, he left his family to follow priest Tran Van Tieu as assistant priest at Bach Bat parish. 

In 1845, he was admitted to Vinh Tri Minor Seminary.

He was renamed Tran Van Triem to avoid having the same name with another seminarian. 

After graduating in 1850 and ordained as a Six (diacre) at Trang Vinh Tri church, in Ke Vinh, Nam Dinh, he was sent to practice in a number of parishes until 1855 when he was granted a missionary license.

Admitted to Ke Non Seminary to further his studies in Philosophy and Theology and to be ordained a Deacon.

Above: Father Peter Tran Luc

On the occasion of the French battleship Catinat entering the gate of Da Nang, Tran sent a letter to the Vietnamese court blaming them for killing the Catholic mission, arbitrarily bombarding the strongholds.

Above: Catinat class cruiser

Above: Da Nang and the Marble Mountains

In 1856, King Tu Duc became even more forceful in banning religion. 

In 1857, four consecutive decrees prohibiting religion were issued. 

Vinh Tri Minor Seminary was razed to the ground. 

Other Catholic institutions were also burned and destroyed. 

Above: Portrait of Tu Duc

On 13 July 1858, Tran was arrested and exiled to Lang Son. 

His younger brother, John Tran Van Phap (or Trut), was also exiled and died here. 

Above: Lang Son City, Vietnam

However, in January 1860, Tran was secretly summoned and ordained a priest by Bishop Jeantet Khiem, then the Apostolic Vicar of West Tonkin, and ordained a priest in Ke Xu (now Tu Chau parish, Lien Chau commune, Thanh Oai district, Hanoi. 

Due to many years of being a Six, he was often called Uncle Sau by parishioners, so he took the fake name Tran Luc to avoid revealing his identity. 

After that, he returned to Lang Son to govern the exiled parishioners here until 1862, when King Tu Duc issued a ban on religion, he was released.

After being released, he was assigned by Bishop Jeantet Khiem to take charge of the three lands of My Diem, Ke Dua, and Tam General. 

At that time, all three countries had only a small thatched church in Trung Dong village (now in Yen Nhan commune, Yen Mo district, Ninh Binh province). 

After he was in charge, the parish church was moved to Phat Diem. 

In 1865, he was appointed parish priest of Phat Diem by Bishop Jeantet Khiem. 

In 1871, he mobilized parishioners to build a small church with tiled roofs.

Above: Bust of Father Peter Tran Luc, Phat Diem

In 1873, Francis Garnier attacked Hanoi and occupied Nam Dinh, Ninh Binh, Hai Duong, and Hai Phong, causing the Tonkin Incident (1873). 

Above: Francis Garnier (1839 – 1873)

King Tu Duc sent Tran Dinh Tuc, Truong Gia Hoi, and two missionaries, Bishop Joseph Hyacinthe Sohier (Vietnamese name: Binh ) and priest Danzelger (Vietnamese name: Dang ) to Hanoi to negotiate with Garnier. 

He is said to have accompanied this delegation. 

The negotiation was not over yet, but Francis Garnier was ambushed by Black Flag troops at Cau Giay. 

Above: Paper Bridge, Cau Giay, Vietnam

Excited by this incident, Tu Duc immediately summoned the negotiating delegation back. 

Tran was personally rewarded by the King with money.

With the favour of the court, he embarked on the construction of a new church in 1875.

Although not an architect, he received and reconciled many schools of art to build a new church. 

The stone church is very massive and artistic, and as aforementioned it has a special style of its own to this day. 

He helped the French colonialists during the early French colonial period in Vietnam. 

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

In the book Dai Nam, Thuc Luc records Tran Luc’s support for the French as follows: 

In Phat Diem commune, in that county, there was Bishop Tran Luc who conspired with the French envoy.

He buried many parishioners and thousands of scoundrels, repeatedly stopping and arresting translators to rob official documents.

The military officers in the provinces had to follow the road through Nho Quan government to send official dispatches.

Above: Book of Dai Nam

In 1886, in response to King Ham Nghi’s decree of kingship, the Ba Dinh Uprising in Thanh Hoa broke out, led by Pham Banh and Dinh Cong Trang in Thanh Hoa. 

Above: Portrait of Dinh Công Trâng (1842 -1887)

In mid-December, the French army, consisting of 500 soldiers, supported by 80 mm cannons, organized an attack on Ba Dinh base, but was repelled by the insurgents. 

Above: Ba Dinh uprising insurrectionists captured

In early January 1887, when the French army organized the second attack, priest Tran Luc mobilized 5,000 Vietnamese parishioners to reinforce, helping the French army successfully destroy this war zone.

Father Tran Luc guided and helped Warrant Officer Hautefeuille capture Ninh Binh Citadel. 

Above: Ninh Binh Citadel

In addition, he also recruited 150 more soldiers to help Hautefeuille protect security.

Father Tran Luc was given a reward by the French government for his merits.

In 1901, Phat Diem Church was chosen as the Bishopric of Thanh Diocese, later changed to Phat Diem Diocese.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

Tran died on 6 July 1899. 

Before his death, he had a last wish to bury his body in the middle of the church’s entrance, so that people can walk and go over the grave

However, parishioners moved out of the way and made a protective barrier.

At his funeral, Thanh Hoa’s father, on behalf of Dai Nam’s court, and Ninh Binh’s envoy on behalf of the French Protectorate government attended and read the eulogy.

His tomb lies behind the bell tower.

His Cathedral was more than ten years in the preparation as stone and wood were transported from the provinces of Thanh Hoa and Nghe An, though it only took a mere three months to complete in 1891.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

There is an anecdote about priest Tran Luc making a sentence to Tran Hi Tan Tang, a man with a reputation for passing high marks, with good writing or words in the Nguyen court. 

The opposite of Tran Luc is written:

Three elderly people sit at one table, they are all regulars, they are not afraid of anyone!

This opposition is dangerous in that the word “grandpa” has many meanings, that is “afraid“, “even“, “enough“, all of which are mentioned in the opposite clause. 

Above: Tomb of Father Six

Tran Hi Tang, who was known as Tam Nguyen Vi Xuyen, quickly responded:

One path has no two roads, the way leads to thieves, the way also lies!

Above: Father Six

Father Tran Luc was questioned by Phan Dinh Phung, then the governor of Yen Khanh, and publicly beaten. 

Because of this, Phan Dinh Phung was punished by the court in the 31st year of Tu Duc. 

Above: Phan Dinh Phung (1847 – 1896)

Bishop John Baotixita Nguyen Ba Tong, when invited to give lectures in many places in Europe, praised Father Tran Luc as follows:

I am determined that there is no Vietnamese like Uncle Sau, who is the glory of this Tonkin Church, the joy of Phat Diem’s children, and the honour of our entire Indochinese nation.

Above: Bishop Nguyen Ba Tong (1868 – 1949)

Author Dao Trinh Nhat, in the book Phan Dinh Phung, the leader of the ten-year resistance war (1886 – 1895) in Nghe Tinh commented on priest Tran Luc as follows: 

Above: Author Dào Trinh Nhât (1900 – 1951)

Therefore, when he was the governor of Yen Khanh in Ninh Binh, Phan saw an old man who was self-righteous or religious, harassing the common people.

Phan did not hesitate to ask the soldiers to hold the cleric down, interrogate and hit him directly.

The priest who suffered the beating was Tran Luc, known as Old Sau.

A few years later, thanks to the French influence, Phan was appointed by the court as a royal enjoy with illustrious authority for a while in Phat Diem – Ninh Binh.

Be afraid.

It is said that Phan has the virtue of killing people like straw, no less than Ton That Thuyet.

Above: Phan Dinh Phûng Monument, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

The Church was built with the technical level and traffic conditions of the late 19th century.

Currently, Ninh Binh province and Japanese researchers are completing the dossier on the architecture of Phat Diem church to propose UNESCO to recognize Phat Diem church as a world cultural heritage.

Above: Logo of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

Phat Diem stone church is rated by the press as one of the most beautiful churches in Vietnam, is likened to “the Catholic capital of Vietnam“.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

Nguyen Van Giao, a guide serving the Church, said:

It is very true to say that this project resembles a pagoda.

Father Peter Tran Luc wished that, through this work, the nature of harmony and integration will be expressed through this work, between Catholicism and the nation’s architectural culture as well as the harmony between Catholicism and other religions in Vietnam, showing solidarity.”

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

  • Ponds and lakes:
    • A rectangular lake, about 4 hectares wide, surrounded by stone embankments, facing the road from Phat Diem town leading to the Church. 
    • In the middle of the lake is an island on which there is a statue of Jesus.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

  • Phuong Dinh : completed in 1899, is an architectural work 25m high, 17m wide, 24m long, consisting of three floors built of slate, the largest is the bottom floor built of green stone. 
    • On the top of the tower there are four statues of the four saints, which from the contours, posture to the lines of the clouds, make it easy to mistake them for the statues in Vietnamese temples. 
    • The stone arches are assembled to a sophisticated level. 
    • In the middle of Phuong Dinh, there is a cave made of monolithic stone, outside and inside are reliefs carved on stone with the image of Jesus Christ and saints with elegant lines. 
    • The second floor of Phuong Dinh hangs a large drum. 
    • The third floor hangs a bell 1.4m high, 1.1m in diameter, weighing nearly 2000kg.
    • The big bell in Phuong Dinh was cast in 1890 can be heard in the distant provinces of Nam Dinh, Ninh Binh and Thanh Hoa. 
    • The roof of Phat Diem church is not towering like a Western-style church, but an ancient curved roof like that of a communal house or a pagoda.

Above: Phuong Dinh, Phat Diem Cathedral

  • Cathedral :
    • The main church was inaugurated in 1891 with the title of Church of Our Lady of the Rosary, now the cathedral of Phat Diem. 
    • The large church is 74m long, 21m wide, 15m high, has four roofs and has five entrances under carved stone arches. 
    • In the Church, there are six rows of monolithic ironwood columns (48 columns), the middle two rows of columns are up to 11m high, 2.35m in circumference, each column weighs about 10 tons. 
    • The atrium of the Cathedral has a large altar made of a monolithic slab 3m long, 0.9m wide, 0.8m high, and weighs about 20 tons. 
    • The front and sides are carved with typical flowers of the four seasons, making the altar look like it is covered with a bright jelly-colored scarf. 
    • On both sides of the church there are four small churches with harmonious architecture, each with its own characteristics.

Above: Altar of Phat Diem Cathedral

  • The four small churches are independent chapels on either side of the large church:
    • Church of the Heart of Jesus (1889) – Northeast
    • St. Roco‘s Church (1895) – Southeast
    • St. Joseph’s Church (1896) – Southwest
    • Peter’s Church (1896) – Northwest

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

  • Three artificial caves in the north of Phat Diem church, about 100m apart, are made of different large and small stone blocks keeping their natural appearance. There are large statues on the caves.
    • Birthday Mountain : Originally named Burial Mountain , built in 1875, it is also the first work built on a very large scale for the purpose of testing the settlement of newly accreted soil. From 1954, it was renamed Birthday Mountain or the current Bethlehem Cave.

Above: Entrance to the Bethlehem Cave, Church of the Nativity, Bethlehem, Palestine

  • Mount Lourdes : Originally named the Garden of Gethsemane, built in 1896, from 1925 renamed Lourdes Cave.

Above: Garden of Gethsemane, Mount of Olives, Jerusalem, Israel

Above: Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes, Lourdes, France

  • Skull Mountain: built in 1898, originally the Cave of Bethlehem. In 1957, the statue of the crucified Lord was placed, hence the name Skull Mountain.

Above: Golgotha, a rocky escarpment resembling a skull, Calvary, Jerusalem, Israel

  • Stone Church : built in 1883, bearing the title Chapel of the Immaculate Heart of Mary
    • Located separately in the Northwest, this is the first church built in this complex, also known as the Stone Church because everything in this Church is made of stone, from the foundation to the walls and columns.
    • The inside is carved with many beautiful reliefs, especially the four precious carvings: pine, apricot, chrysanthemum, bamboo, symbolizing the weather and the beauty of the four seasons in a year. 
    • The lines depicting animals, such as lions and phoenixes, are incredibly vivid.

During the French War (1946 – 1954), the Catholic Church formed a powerful political group in Vietnam that stood virtually independent of the French administration, but also opposed to the Communists.

Above: Images of the French / First Indochina War

The then Bishop of Phat Diem, Monseigneur Le Huu Tu was outspokenly anti-French and an avowed nationalist, but, as his Diocese lay on the edge of government-held territory, the French supplied him with sufficient arms to maintain a militia of 2,000 men in returning for containing Viet Minh infiltration.

Above: Father Le Huu Tu

Tadeo Le Huu Tu (1897 – 1967) was a Vietnamese Catholic Bishop, whose episcopal motto was:

A cry in the desert“. 

He was considered the founder and leader of the Catholic Self-Defense Force in Phat Diem.

He is also considered the spiritual leader of Catholics who migrated to the South during the period of 1954 to 1967.

Above: Badge of Le Huu Tu

Le Huu Tu was born in Di Loan, Quang Tri province. 

When after his birth, Le Huu Tu did not cry, so his father was afraid that the boy would not survive, so he took him to a baptismal rite. 

As the rite was performed on the feast of Thaddeus, this saint was chosen to be Le’s patron. 

Above: Jude Thaddeus the Apostle

Le Huu Tu’s father, Le Huu Y was a good Confucian scholar, often referred to as “the Italian boss“, because he held the title of Boss in the Diocese’s executive board.

Above: Portrait of Confucius / Kǒng Fūzǐ (551 – 479 BCE)

Le’s mother was Ine Duong. 

His family had ten siblings (eight boys and two girls), two of whom died early.

Besides Le Huu Tu, who became a bishop, the Le family also produced two priests and two nuns. 

When he was a child, the boy Tu was less sick, had a talent for music and had a high and clear voice, so he was often involved in singing at Catholic festivals.

Due to his naughty habits, his parents did not appreciate Le Huu Tu’s religious ability compared to other children and even expressed disapproval of their son’s stubbornness.

Above: Le Huu Tu

According to the book Bishop Le Huu Tu and Phat Diem, 1945 – 1954 , from the beginning of February 1936, Le Huu Tu received the task of establishing a new religious house in Phat Diem. 

The first facilities of the monastery were a few thatched cottages and a plantation tile house that had been abandoned long ago.

When he arrived in the unspoiled Chau Son area, Tu carried only a cross, a rosary, 12 Vietnamese silver coins and 12 monks with him. 

Le Huu Tu and a group of monks worked together to renovate nature to build a cathedral. 

The ceremony of laying the first stone to build the Cistercian church of Nho Quan was in mid-February 1937. 

Above: Le Huu Tu

Living a life of asceticism, Abbot Le Huu Tu was no exception, he also worked hard, often going barefoot except when celebrating Catholic Mass (wearing sandals). 

His job was to cut rocks, hoe gravel, clear forests for farming, specialized in fertilizers and clean toilets. 

Above: Father Le Huu Tu

In early 1945, hearing that the Quynh Luu war zone of Vietnam was established for the purpose of anti-Japanese and anti-French resistance, Le Huu Tu secretly visited the area. 

Above: Flag of the Japanese Empire of Vietnam (11 March – 11 June 1945)

Although he talked many times with the leader of the war zone Nguyen Van Moc (later Chairman of Ninh Binh province), Father Tu still did not know that the Viet Minh were Communist. 

Above: Flag of the Viet Minh

He thought they were a political organization that brought together Marxists and was in dire need of support.

The selection of a new diocesan bishop was urgently conducted by Bishop John Baotixita Nguyen Ba Tong, the Diocesan Administrator. 

Realizing that Father Le Huu Tu was knowledgeable about the Diocese with 10 years of experience and was the head of the Cistercian order, Bishop Tong recommended Father Tu to the Holy See. 

On 11 July 1945, priest Le Huu Tu was appointed by Pope Pius XII as the titular bishop of Daphnusia with the post of Apostolic Vicar of Phat Diem Apostolic Vicariate, with the mission to build and develop the religious house.

Above: Pope Pius XII ( Eugenio Maria Giuseppe Giovanni Pacelli) (1876 – 1958)

When receiving this news, the Congregation was shocked and dismayed.  

He officially received his appointment on 19 July. 

On 22 July, a delegation from Phat Diem, including the Secretary of the Episcopal See, the Director and a professor of the Seminary, visited the new Bishop and officially presented the appointment letter. 

Surprised, the newly elected Bishop commented: 

The priests of Phat Diem made a big mistake, if not crazy, when they chose an ascetic who was only able to hoe and pick grass.” 

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

They discussed the program of the ordination, which had been set for October 29 of the same year. 

Later, when sharing the issue of appointing Bishop Phat Diem, Bishop Tu said that the reason he initially did not want to accept Phat Diem diocese was because he thought Phat Diem did not have excellent priests and parishioners and a Bishop without a good collaboration can do nothing, so it is better to refuse first. 

Le Huu Tu also expressed his desire to accept the position of Bishop of Vinh or Hué rather than the Diocese of Phat Diem.

Above: Vinh Cathedral

Above: Hué Cathedral

The newly-elected Bishop had many meetings with other bishops to campaign to avoid responsibility (as a bishop):

They all advised Le Huu Tu to obey the Holy See. 

On 6 August, newly elected bishop Le Huu Tu rode his bicycle into Hue to meet with the Apostolic Nuncio Drapier and after two hours of debate, he submitted to the Holy See’s will as Bishop. 

Above: Flag of the Holy See / Vatican City

On 1 October 1945, newly elected Bishop Le Huu Tu came to Phat Diem to introduce the Diocese’s clergy and parishioners with tens of thousands of attendees. 

Bishop Le Huu Tu invited only Vietnamese bishops to participate in the ordination ceremony. 

When his father-in-law, Bishop Peter Martin Ngo Dinh Thuc, was prevented by French secret police from attending the ceremony, Bishop Tu refused Hai Phong Diocese Bishop Antonio Colomer Le (a foreigner) to attend and assist in the ordination rite. 

Above: Peter Martino Ngo Dinh Thuc (1897 – 1984)

The ordination ceremony was held on 28 October 28 of the same year at Phat Diem Cathedral.

The ceremony vacated a position of auxiliary bishop because no bishop was chosen to take the place of Bishop Thuc. 

None of the foreign bishops attended the ordination ceremony for the newly elected Bishop. 

This was the first episcopal ordination ceremony after the Democratic Republic of Vietnam declared its establishment. 

Le Huu Tu was the 5th Vietnamese Bishop and one of only four Vietnamese bishops alive at this time.

Above: Inside Phat Diem Cathedral

The Government of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam sent a delegation to attend the ceremony and congratulate. 

The government delegation gave a congratulatory letter from President Ho Chi Minh to the new Bishop Le Huu Tu:

Congratulations to you, for this ordination has gloriously demonstrated your morality.

Congratulations to fellow Catholics because from now on you have a well-deserved leader.

At the same time, I am happy for our country because I am sure he will lead the Catholic compatriots to follow God’s example and sacrifice to strive to preserve the freedom and independence of the country.” 

Above: Ho Chi Minh (1890 – 1969)

On the occasion of Bishop Le Huu Tu’s Episcopal ordination (28 October 1945), the Vicar General priests and lay delegates in the northern and central dioceses of Vietnam held a meeting of the established the Vietnam Catholic Federation with the motto: 

God and the Fatherland.

Above: Vung Tau, Vietnam

Simultaneously with the celebration of the new Bishop, the distribution of gifts to the poor was also carried out. 

After the Bishop’s ordination ceremony, on 6 November, Bishop Le Huu Tu went to the North to meet Ho Chi Minh to thank the government delegation who had attended the Bishop’s ordination. 

President Ho welcomed him warmly and offered to invite Bishop Tu to the Government’s Supreme Advisory Council (after inviting former Emperor Bao Dai). 

Above: The North Vietnamese government, 1946

The President of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam also promised to return the favour and visit Phat Diem. 

Bishop Le Huu Tu accepted the offer to be an advisor, but only considered it a courtesy gesture. 

He continued the prepared path of action for independence, against Communism.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

After the official opening of Phat Diem diocese (1 October 1945), in the context of many difficulties, due to famine, and social turmoil, due to many changes in politics. 

In response to the situation, Bishop Tu established a program consisting of three specialized structures:

  • Diocesan Council
  • Commission Relief Committee (for relief and distribution)
  • Military Affairs Committee (administration of political, military and school affairs). 

The Main Military Committee then set up the first Catholic armed group, the Catholic Youth for National Salvation, presented and awarded the sword seal by Bishop Le Huu Tu on 18 October 1945. 

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

  

In circulation letters, Bishop Le Huu Tu officially established the Catholic Federation of Phat Diem Diocese in October 1946.  

In 1946 alone, Tu wrote 12 letters, two directives and two communiqués, in which on religious issues there are contents such as:

  • calling for the priesthood to love, harmonize and help
  • remind priests to take care of preachers
  • to correct the missionary work
  • to open a mission and to correct the Society of Saint Peter
  • promote devotion to the Blessed Sacrament and to Mary
  • establish the Catholic Federation and the diocesan test school 

 

During nearly a decade of direct management of the diocese of Phat Diem, Bishop Le Huu Tu never closed the seminaries and did not restrict those who wanted to follow the religious path in religious institutes. 

Up to 1953, Bishop Tu had ordained 43 priests, major seminarians increased from 40 to 80.

During this period, Phat Diem Seminary became a place to train seminarians from dioceses. 

He developed the Phat Diem Lovers of the Cross and unified the branches of the Lovers of the Cross in Vietnam.

In the field of education, Bishop Le Huu Tu maintained Tran Luc school and 48 Catholic schools, the total number of students was about 10,000 people. 

In October 1953, he sent 48 people including priests, seminarians, nuns and lay people to study in Rome.  

The Diocese had its own printing house, Le Bao Tinh, and the weekly newspaper Tieng Kieu

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

Due to its prestige, the Phat Diem area had higher security when the War recurred and many war victims came to Phat Diem to live. 

Of the 60,000 people who came to Phat Diem, half of them lived next to the Bishop’s Palace. 

Bishop Le Huu Tu suspended the construction of the Grand Seminary and the construction of Tran Luc School in order to take two plots of land and build 600 houses for displaced families. 

He also spent financial funds to repair Con Thoi Dike, in order to ensure crops and food to feed seminarians and refugees.

In difficult circumstances, Bishop Tu still organized religious activities:

  • going on pilgrimages
  • preaching on retreats
  • conducting missions
  • talking with parishioners. 

He solemnly organized the procession of the statue of Our Lady of Fatima in the Diocese. 

Above: Statue of Our Lady of Fatima, Chapel of the Apparitions, Fatima, Portugal

In addition to purely religious issues, he established a refugee camp to support people regardless of religion who are victims of war.

Above: Father Le Huu Tu

He wrote a total of 96 circulars, 15 directives and 20 communiqués on religious and life issues during the nine years of direct administration of Phat Diem (1945 – 1954). 

The contents of circulation letter No. 5 by Le Huu, 3 December 1945, mentioned the importance of election and election instructions, on the occasion of holding elections for the National Assembly of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam. 

In the letter, he assessed that the People’s Parliament has an important role for the country and affects both moral and religious, so Catholics and Catholic clergy cannot lack representation in the National Assembly. 

Le Huu Tu said that Catholics and minorities, if all believers go to the polls, only 25 – 30 members out of 300 members, should encourage Catholics as well as non-Catholics.

Catholics vote for Catholics, or Buddhists who are honest to create legitimate interests and protect legitimate interests. 

Realizing the importance of the election, Bishop Tu proposed a plan that the Catholic Federation and Catholic Church for National Salvation must use their abilities in the election. 

Above: St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City

General elections were held on 6 January 1946.

The Catholic side proposed four candidates and the Viet Minh Headquarters did the same. 

Both sides propagated and competed fiercely. 

Preliminary results announced showed that a consortium of four Catholic candidates won over most of the districts in the province, but in the official results of the province, only one Catholic candidate won, Ngo Tu Ha, and three Viet Minh candidates were elected. 

Above: Ngo Tu Ha (1882 – 1973)

Alleging that there was fraud in the election (one of the two coalitions must win completely), Bishop Tu sent a telegram protesting the results to the Government and prepared to protest against the results. 

The Government sent a reply telegram stating that there was a mistake in counting the votes and confirmed that Father Peter Maria Pham Ngoc Chi had been elected. 

Bishop Tu then allowed Father Chi to refuse this election.

Above: Pham Ngoc Chi (1909 – 1988)

President Ho Chi Minh went to Phat Diem to meet with Bishop Le Huu Tu in mid-January 1946 – an unannounced visit.

Bishop Tu and his priests promised to do their best to help the resistance war and national construction. 

President Ho commented that Bishop Tu is my friend and a wise leader of the Catholic compatriots.

During this visit, Ho Chi Minh asked Bishop Le Huu Tu to assume the position of Supreme Advisor to the Government. 

During the surprise meeting, Bishop Tu and President Ho talked in a private room, while the priests of Phat Diem gathered in the Bishop’s Palace living room.

Parishioners were mobilized to welcome President Ho. 

The people then brought President Ho and Bishop Le to the Opera House to celebrate. 

Above: Uncle Ho (left) and Father Le Huu Tu

In his reply, President Ho announced the appointment of Bishop Tu as an advisor. 

From then on, people called Le Huu Tu Duc Advisor

Above: Le Huu Tu and Ho Chi Minh

As an adviser, Bishop Le Huu Tu sought out President Ho Chi Minh to oppose him.

The Government signed a preliminary agreement with France on 6 March 1946.

During the meeting, Le Huu Tu said that nationalist and popular parties were blaming the Government for the sarcastic content and irony of the oath [to not show France] a declaration of independence. 

After receiving President Ho’s reply about the political situation, Bishop Tu affirmed that he trusted Ho Chi Minh.

This time. 

However, Le Huu Tu, after returning to Phat Diem, told the priests and the staff, that President Ho had sold out the country by making peace with the French to destroy the nationalist parties. 

With the desire to help these parties, Bishop Tu was disappointed that they were full of divisions and lack of consensus against the Viet Minh.

Above: Flag of France

Ho Chi Minh repeatedly corresponded with his advisor Le Huu Tu in 1946.

The communication between the two sides was good.

At least on the surface. 

Bishop Tu sent priest Nguyen Gia De to see President Ho off to France at the end of May 1946.

To protest against Ho Chi Minh’s signing of the Vietnam – France Temporary Treaty (14 September 1946), Bishop Le Huu Tu went to meet President Ho Chi Minh in his private rooms on 24 October 1946.

At this brief meeting, Le Huu Tu openly said that: 

If the government were to make mistakes again, I would mobilize the people to stand up.

Oppose. 

Above: Ho Chi Minh and French diplomat Marius Moutet shake hands after signing the Vietnam-France Temporary Agreement, 14 September 1946

The Bishop also asked President Ho about the issue of the National Guard troops occupying areas controlled by nationalist parties while he was in France, President Ho said he did not understand the situation because he had just returned to Vietnam and promised to make arrangements.

In areas controlled by the French, their propaganda declared that Bishop Le Huu Tu followed the Viet Minh, and the Viet Minh followed Communism. 

The Catholic Hun newspaper also identified the Viet Minh and stated that the current government was a Communist government, thus causing many misunderstandings leading to many mass organizations from other diocese.

Ho Chi Minh sent a cable on 17 October 1945 to US President Harry S. Truman calling on him, Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek, Premier Stalin and Prime Minister Attlee to go to the United Nations against France and demand France not be allowed to return to occupy Vietnam, accusing France of having sold out and cheated the Allies by surrendering Indochina to Japan and that France had no right to return.

Above: Harry S. Truman (1884 – 1972)

Above: Chiang Kai-shek (1887 – 1975)

Above: Joseph Stalin (1878 – 1953)

Above: Clement Attlee (1883 – 1967)

Ho Chi Minh dumped the blame on the VNDQQ for signing the agreement with France for returning its soldiers to Vietnam after he had to do it himself.

During the August Revolution following World War II, Vietnamese Communist revolutionary Hô Chi Minh, leader of the Viêt Minh Front, declared independence on 2 September 1945, from the Ba Dinh Flower Garden in Hanoi, announcing the creation of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam.

Above: Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Ba Dinh Square, Hanoi

Above: A copy of the original Proclamation of Independence of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam

Compatriots of the entire nation assembled:

All people are created equal.

They are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable rights.

Among these are life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness.

Above: The United States Declaration of Independence of 4 July 1776

This immortal statement was made in the Declaration of Independence of the United States of America in 1776.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

In a broader sense, this means:

All the peoples on the Earth are equal from birth, all the peoples have a right to live, to be happy and free.

Above: Earth, 7 December 1972, photograph by the crew of Apollo 17

The Declaration of the Rights of Man and the Citizen of the French Revolution made in 1791 also states: 

All men are born free and with equal rights, and must always remain free and have equal rights.

Those are undeniable truths.

Above: Declaration of the Rights of Man and the Citizen, 1789

Nevertheless, for more than eighty years, the French colonists, in the name of liberty, equality, and fraternity, have violated our Fatherland and oppressed our fellow citizens.

They have acted contrary to the ideals of humanity and justice.

Above: National symbol of the French Republic

In the field of politics, they have deprived our people of every democratic liberty.

They have enforced inhuman laws.

They have set up three distinct political regimes in the North, Center, and South of Vietnam in order to destroy our national unity and prevent our people from being united.

They have built more prisons than schools.

They have mercilessly slaughtered our patriots.

They have drowned our uprisings in bloodbaths.

They have fettered public opinion.

They have practiced obscurantism against our people.

To weaken our race they have forced us to use opium and alcohol.

Above: Map of Indochina, 1886

Above: Opium poppy

In the field of economics, they have fleeced us to the backbone, impoverished our people and devastated our land.

They have robbed us of our rice fields, our mines, our forests, and our raw materials.

They have monopolized the issuing of bank notes and the export trade.

They have invented numerous unjustifiable taxes and reduced our people, especially our peasantry, to a state of extreme poverty.

They have hampered the prospering of our national bourgeoisie.

They have mercilessly exploited our workers.

Above: Great Seal of French Indochina

In the autumn of 1940, when the Japanese fascists violated Indochina’s territory to establish new bases in their fight against the Allies, the French imperialists went down on their bended knees and handed over our country to them.

Thus, from that date, our people were subjected to the double yoke of the French and the Japanese.

Their sufferings and miseries increased.

The result was that, from the end of last year to the beginning of this year, from Quàng Tri Province to northern Vietnam, more than two million of our fellow citizens died from starvation.

Above: Map of the Japanese Empire at its greatest extent, 1942

Above: The famine in Vietnam, 1945

On 9 March 1945, the French troops were disarmed by the Japanese.

The French colonialists either fled or surrendered, showing that not only were they incapable of “protecting” us, but that, in the span of five years, they had twice sold our country to the Japanese.

Above: French colonial troops retreating to the Chinese border during the Japanese coup of March 1945

On several occasions before 9 March, the Viêt Minh League urged the French to ally themselves with it against the Japanese.

Instead of agreeing to this proposal, the French colonialists so intensified their terrorist activities against the Việt Minh members that before fleeing they massacred a great number of our political prisoners detained at Yên Bái and Cao Bâng.

Above: Flag of the Vietnamese Revolutionary Army, Yên Bái Mutiny, 10 February 1930





Above: Cao Bâng City, Vietnam

Notwithstanding all this, our fellow citizens have always manifested toward the French a tolerant and humane attitude.

Even after the Japanese Putsch of March 1945, the Việt Minh League helped many Frenchmen to cross the frontier, rescued some of them from Japanese jails, and protected French lives and property.

From the autumn of 1940, our country had in fact ceased to be a French colony and had become a Japanese possession.

After the Japanese had surrendered to the Allies, our whole people rose to regain our national sovereignty and to found the Democratic Republic of Vietnam.

Above: Japanese naval warrant officer surrenders his sword to Sub Lieutenant Anthony Martin in a ceremony in Saigon.

The truth is that we have wrested our independence from the Japanese and not from the French.

The French have fled, the Japanese have capitulated, Emperor Bao Dai has abdicated.

Above: Emperor Bao Dai (1913 – 1997)

Our people have broken the chains which for nearly a century have fettered them and have won independence for the Fatherland.

Our people at the same time have overthrown the monarchic regime that has reigned supreme for dozens of centuries.

In its place has been established the present Democratic Republic.

Above: Flag of North Vietnam

For these reasons, we, the members of the Provisional Government, representing the whole Vietnamese people, declare that from now on we break off all relations of a colonial character with France.

We repeal all the international obligation that France has so far subscribed to on behalf of Vietnam.

We abolish all the special rights the French have unlawfully acquired in our Fatherland.

The whole Vietnamese people, animated by a common purpose, are determined to fight to the bitter end against any attempt by the French colonialists to reconquer the country.

We are convinced that the Allied nations, which at Tehran and San Francisco have acknowledged the principles of self-determination and equality of nations, will not refuse to acknowledge the independence of Vietnam.

Above: The Big Three (Joseph Stalin / Franklin Delano Roosevelt / Winston Churchill) at the Tehran Conference (28 November – 1 December 1945)

Above: United Nations charter logo, San Francisco Conference, 25 April – 26 June 1945

A people who have courageously opposed French domination for more than eighty years, a people who have fought side by side with the Allies against the fascists during these last years, such a people must be free and independent!

For these reasons, we, the members of the Provisional Government of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, solemnly declare to the world that:

Vietnam has the right to be a free and independent country — and in fact it is so already.

And thus the entire Vietnamese people are determined to mobilize all their physical and mental strength, to sacrifice their lives and property in order to safeguard their independence and liberty.

Above: Emblem of Vietnam

The Việt Minh (“League for the Independence of Vietnam“), led by Communists, was created in 1941 and designed to appeal to a wider population than the Indochinese Communist Party could command.

Above: Flag of the Indochinese Communist Party

From the very beginning, the DRV regime sought to consolidate power by purging other nationalist movements.

Meanwhile, France moved in to reassert its colonial dominance over Vietnam.

After the Communist-led Việt Minh severely eliminated non-communist nationalist organizations, the First Indochina War burst out between the Việt Minh and the French in December 1946. 

Commenting on the outbreak of the Vietnam – France War on 19 December 1946, Bishop Le Huu Tu said that: 

The situation will be very difficult in the coming days because the French army will advance, while the Viet Minh will both retreat and suppress the nationalists.

National parties are getting weaker every day, so we at Phat Diem have to fend for ourselves.

Above: French Indochina, 1913

On the partisan issue, in 1946, Bishop Le Huu Tu repeatedly warned parishioners and clergy:

Beware of clever partisan propaganda supported by Bishop Tu and people claiming to be from different parties to entice Catholics.

Priests should be careful.

Christians should not be hasty to express what they believed, because the enemy’s trap of spying on attitudes of Catholics, asking for answers: 

Bishop Tu said he had tried to support those arrested for joining parties, asking priests to prevent people from joining anti-government parties.

Bishop Le Huu Tu also promoted the establishment of National Salvation Catholicism in parishes, abolished the tricolor flag and the dragon crystal flag, and removed a number of Western trumpet songs.

Above: Dragon crystal flag of the province of Vietnam

 

He also recommended that priests open popular academic classes to prevent the faithful from losing out. 

The Bishop of Phat Diem also noted other issues such as:

  • opening a Catholic private school
  • the Communist problem
  • the support of parishioners to join the relief committees for victims, soldiers and peacemakers
  • medical problems such as malaria

Above: Communist hammer and sickle symbol

When the French re-occupied Indochina, the Viet Minh Government moved to Viet Bac. 

Under the agitation of the French, along with the exuberance of the people, a number of conflicts broke out between laymen and the laity. 

In order to defuse conflicts and avoid adverse influences, President Ho Chi Minh repeatedly sent letters, as well as sent special envoys to resolve conflicts, trying to enlist the support of Bishop Le Huu Tu, as well as Catholics.

Above: Ho Chi Minh

Since late 1946, about 5,000 people had been arrested by the Viet Minh for alleged partisan activities and lack of resistance. 

Particularly, Catholics were arrested for holding the French and Long Tinh flags, some for being partisan, and for holding religious positions.

Faced with this situation, Bishop Le Huu Tu sent a letter to Ho Chi Minh requesting the release of innocent people. 

He assessed that the actions of arresting innocent people affected national unity, divided religion and provoked Catholicism. 

Above: Father Le Huu Tu

(Things would get worse…..

Land reform was an integral part of the Viet Minh and Communist North Vietnam.

The Viet Minh Land Reform Law of 4 December 1953 called for:

(1) confiscation of land belonging to landlords who were enemies of the regime

(2) requisition of land from landlords not judged to be enemies

(3) purchase with payment in bonds

The land reform was carried out from 1953 to 1956.

Some farming areas did not undergo land reform but only rent reduction and the highland areas occupied by minority peoples were not substantially impacted.

Some land was retained by the government but most was distributed without payment with priority given to Viet Minh fighters and their families. 

The total number of rural people impacted by the land reform program was more than 4 million.

The rent reduction program impacted nearly 8 million people.

Above: Rice field, Canh Dong, Vietnam

Executions and imprisonment of persons classified as “landlords” or enemies of the state were contemplated from the beginning of the land reform program.

A Politburo (executive committee of the Communist Party) document dated 4 May 1953 said that executions were “fixed in principle at the ratio of one per one thousand people of the total population“.

The number of persons actually executed by Communist cadres carrying out the land reform program has been variously estimated.

Some estimates of those killed range up to 200,000.

Above: Flag of the Communist Party of Vietnam

Other scholarship has concluded that the higher estimates were based on political propaganda emanating from South Vietnam and that the actual total of those executed was probably much lower.

Above: Flag of South Vietnam (1955 – 1975)

Scholar Edwin E. Moise estimated the total number of executions at between 3,000 and 15,000 and later came up with a more precise figure of 13,500.

Above: Edwin E. Moise (1918 – 1998)

Moise’s conclusions were supported by documents of diplomats from Hungary (occupied by the Soviet Union), living in Democratic Republic of Vietnam at the time of the land reform. 

Above: Flag of Hungary

Above: Flag of the Soviet Union

Author Michael Lind in a 2013 book gives a similar estimate of “at least ten or fifteen thousand” executed.)

Above: Michael Lind

Ho Chi Minh sent a central delegation to apologize and release those for whom Bishop Tu intervened, especially in the case at Van Hai. 

Within a week, Ho Chi Minh sent three delegations and two letters to Bishop Le Huu Tu. 

Having received a letter, dated 10 February 1947, from President Ho Chi Minh, Bishop Le sent a circular quoting two letters of the President, reminding Catholics to have patriotism and participate in the resistance war, that they must be wary of rumours because the Government’s policy on religion, especially with Catholicism, was clear.

Above: Ho Chi Minh

Catholics needed to show solidarity with non-Catholics. 

He advised priests not to talk about politics in the Church, to unite against the French, and to put partisan issues aside. 

Priests absolutely could not receive strangers without the Bishop’s referral, that they should pray for the country and for their compatriots to be free and happy soon. 

In order to avoid parties taking advantage of the name of Catholicism to operate for their own purposes and to show that Catholics enthusiastically participate in the resistance war, Bishop Tu strengthened the Catholic National Salvation Organization.

Above: Le Huu Tu

The Phat Diem area became a refuge for many displaced people after the Vietnam – French War broke out in December 1946 and those wanted by the Viet Minh. 

Receiving the news that Ngo Dinh Diem had been taken away by the Viet Minh, Bishop Le Huu Tu intervened to meet Ho Chi Minh for information and to request his release.

This request was met by President Ho. 

Above: South Vietnamese President Ngo Dinh Diem (1901 – 1963)

Because of the overwhelming number of displaced people, Le Huu Tu established the Evacuation Relief Committee on 13 February 1947. 

On 5 September 1947, Tong Viet Dung (real name Le Van Cuong), a Catholic cadre, was arrested by the Congregation.

Viet Minh police chased and arrested Dung. 

Receiving the news, Le Huu Tu drafted a letter to intervene, requesting the release of Dung and invited the chief police officer to discuss. 

The police said that Dung was detained because it was reported that he was a member of the anti-government Duy Dan Party. 

Above: Flag of the Dai Viet Duy Dán Populist Revolutionary Party (1943 – 1947):
The star symbolizes populism.
The three wings symbolize the universe, mankind and the nation.
The red background symbolizes struggle for independence. 
The white background symbolizes “cleanliness of the people“. 
The black background symbolizes freedom for Vietnamese people.

After Dung was taken, at dawn the next day he died.

His body was recovered on 7 September.

It was confirmed that he had multiple injuries, especially on the top of his head. 

According to the Catholic Headquarters, the officer pushed him into the boat and opened fire. 

According to the police, this man intentionally jumped out of the canoe to escape

The funeral ceremony for Dung was led by Bishop Tu on 8 September with the participation of a number of government officials and a large number of parishioners. 

Bishop Tu asked that weapons were not brought into the Church to ensure solemnity and peace for the funeral. 

During the funeral, a secret gun was shot from the Viet Minh government information room next to Bishop Le Huu Tu and then fired again (due to a conflict between the procession and the police). 

Outraged that the Bishop was assassinated, many people burst into the House of God with guns, beat the Viet Minh cadres with sticks and swords, tore up banners, books, posters, and smashed tables and chairs.

The Than Phong Battalion led Bishop Le and priest Doan Doc Thu, and three government officials into the guard post, then the Volunteers team brought them to the Bishop’s Palace. 

The National Guard intervened and restored order at 21:00 that day. 

The police and Catholics fought one another through the night of 9 September. 

According to a private newspaper in Hanoi, it was announced that the provocation and terrorist incident in Phat Diem had been caused by the Communist Government, and that Bishop Le Huu Tu had been assassinated. 

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

On the morning of 10 September, a report signed by Bishop Le Huu Tu was published.  

Le Huu Tu called on parishioners to open a novena to pray for peace and preserve the Diocese.

On 15 September, a delegation led by the Vietnamese government, Minh had a meeting with Bishop Le Huu Tu, saying that: 

The event was only a consequence of democracy in the embryo.

(There is a sad irony in how often the word “Democratic” is given in the titles of nations whose governments are democratic only in name.)

It was announced that President Ho Chi Minh would send a high-level delegation to present a mutually beneficial solution. 

Bishop Tu affirmed again that it was strictly forbidden for parishioners to join political parties.

Phat Diem was criticized for lacking the spirit of resistance. 

Because of these criticisms, Le Huu Tu and Phat Diem organized events to participate in the resistance such as:

  • opening classes and meeting with Catholic Youth for National Salvation
  • swearing an oath for the Catholic cadres of National Salvation
  • purchasing guns and armaments for the Catholic militia for National Salvation

Phat Diem Opera House became the military training center for this organization. 

In his memoirs, Bishop Tu stated that he must defend himself firmly in order to work with the Communist government.

Above: Soldier statue, Phat Diem

Bishop Tu asked to buy a gun.

President Ho instructed Defense Minister Phan Anh and Tu received permission, but there were no signed documents and oral permission.

Above: Phan Anh (1912 – 1990)

On the issue of buying guns, Hai Phong Bishop Gomez Le, after discussing with the Apostolic Nuncio Drapier, supported and lent 1,000,000 VND to buy guns.

Bishop Tu’s personal car was used many times to transport weapons and was not questioned, because of a letter of recommendation from the Chairman of the Ninh Binh Resistance Administrative Committee. 

Every time guns arrived, he informed the Administrative Committee and the police.

Unable to take advantage of Bishop Le Huu Tu, France wanted to spread the news that the Bishop had contacted France.

Bishop Tu responded that he never contacted France and did not ask for French guns. 

Because of Bishop Tu’s stubborn attitude, the French bombed Phat Diem.  

On the morning of 22 November 1947, the French twice attacked Phat Diem and Phat Diem’s ​​common house, the chapel of the Lecturer’s School. 

The attack damaged many facilities, killed 27 people and injured 32. 

Phat Diem area was organized into three military zones.

All of them are placed under the general command of the “Catholic Self-Defense Department“, led by Father Hoang Quynh as Commander-in-Chief.

Le Huu Tu often reminded people:

We only know how to serve God and the Fatherland.

We value justice, charity, the pursuit of happiness and peace.

But when the Communists come, we fight!

And when the colonialists come, we also fight!

By early 1949, Phat Diem maintained a stable situation, the population migrated to many places, civil, religious, and resistance activities took place in harmony. 

Above: Phat Diem

Bishop Le Huu Tu denounced the French:

The French soldiers, with extreme barbarism, destroyed everything, but nothing, including the Church.

Every year, nearly 300 churches had been bombed. 

Tu was classified by the French as “the most nationalist” and “the soul of the resistance against the French“. 

Therefore, the French colonialists found a way to divide Bishop Tu from his ability to resist. 

Bishop Le Huu Tu denied information from the Agence France Presse (AFP) news agency that the French operation was conducted because the Bao Dai government received a request from Bishop Le Huu Tu. 

He stated:

Never could I have had the idea of ​​calling the French army to save us from any danger.

I have had no contact with the Bao Dai Government.”

Above: Coat of arms of South Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh repeatedly called him “a close friend“, “a dear friend“.

Tu often corresponded with President Ho and collaborated with the Government of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam when sending priests to the field.

He is also credited with mobilizing parishioners to break the Tri Chinh Bridge to prevent the French army from marching in 1949. 

Bishop Le Huu Tu’s stance was against both the French colonialists and the communist Viet Minh. 

However, because the Viet Minh Front was the ruling organization in the resistance war against the French, Catholics “have to choose what they don’t want to choose,” according to priest Truong Ba Can, writing in the Catholicism and Nationality weekly newspaper. 

The diversion of Bishop Le Huu Tu, according to Dr. Nguyen Huy Thong, was the result of:

The mutually exclusive confrontation of ideological issues that both religion and life present are not easy to overcome at this time”. 

It can be clearly seen through his words to President Ho Chi Minh when they met in Phat Diem in early 1946:

“I and the Catholic people of Phat Diem united and thoroughly supported him in the resistance war against the colonialists.

France won independence and freedom for the Fatherland, but if you are a Communist, I will oppose you from this moment on.

Above: Communist symbol

(There are more ironies evident in the story of Vietnam, which, in truth, is merely a microcosm of the world itself:

The problems that haunt history are neither religion nor politics, but rather what is preached is rarely practiced.

Religion should not seek to take life, but instead show us how to live.

Communism is meant to share the world’s wealth not to render everyone poor except a chosen few.

Like “democratic“, “communist” is a misnomer used by governments to practice authoritarianism and autocracy.

Above: Countries of the world now (red) or previously (orange) having nominally Communist governments

Communism (from the Latin communis) (‘common, universal‘) is a philosophical, social, political and economic ideology and movement whose goal is the establishment of a society, a socioeconomic order based on the idea of common ownership of the means of production, distribution, and exchange —allocating products to everyone in the society.

It involves the absence of social classes, money, and the state.

Communism, while sometimes used as a synonym of socialism, is distinct from socialism.

Communists may say they seek a voluntary state of self-governance, but the means to this end is rarely voluntary for the vast majority caught by this movement.

What should be a libertarian approach of community, spontaneity and people’s self-governance is invariably corrupted by the desire of the revolutionary powers to enjoy the benefits of the same power that their defeated enemy once possessed.

Communism is commonly confused with the political and economic system that developed in the Soviet Union after the Russian Revolution. 

Communism as practiced by communist-in-name-only regimes is the polar opposite to the ideology that was based on the secular desire of humanity to achieve equality and social justice, and that promised a great leap forward into freedom.

True freedom is rarely achieved and for the most part remains reserved for rare individuals.

True freedom collectively is a fantasy at best, a threat at worst, for the freedom of a few usually comes at the cost of the loss of freedom of the many.)

Contrary to anti-colonial propaganda, Le Huu Tu was a fierce anti-colonial person. 

Until the late 1940s, he was successful in defending the Phat Diem – Bui Chu self-defense zone from both colonialists and Communists. 

Above: Flag of modern Vietnam

Whatever flaws Tu may have possessed, he strikes me as an example of what love of country truly is.

Love of country is not your country right or wrong.

Love of country is not blind obedience to the government right or wrong.

Love of country is akin to the love for one’s children, for though you may love them you may not always love the things that they do.

As a responsible parent you cannot remain silent when wrongdoing is practiced by those who will carry on in your stead.

The self-sacrifice of parents for progeny means the devotion of time, comfort and resources for the well-being of the future.

But governments who truly represent those they are supposed to nurture and protect are merely mystical mirages in a dry desert of abandoned hope.

If a government truly acts in a manner that benefits the people (rather than merely the members of that government) it is then worthy of allegiance.

If a government does not act compassionately and responsibly, then love of country demands speaking truth to power, even if it is a certainty that power rarely listens to the powerless.

Not all those who produce progeny are necessarily fit parents.

Just because we can produce children does not necessarily mean everyone should.

Just because someone wields power does not necessarily mean they have the wisdom to do so responsibly.

Entering 1950, the conflict on the Indochina peninsula took on the colour of the Cold War, the Democratic Republic of Vietnam increasingly linked with the international Communist bloc, both French colonialists and Vietnamese Communists were both wanted to control the Catholic self-defense zone. 

Above: Comintern (international Communism) logo

Caught in the middle, Le Huu Tu finally agreed to cooperate with the nation of Vietnam led by former emperor Bao Dai.

However, his conflict with the French colonialists remained the same. 

His nationalist spirit was even admired by Ho Chi Minh and the Communists.

Above: Le Huu Tu

However, in December 1951, the Viet Minh launched a major assault on the village and took it.

When paratroopers came in to regain control, the Viet Minh withdrew, taking with them a valuable supply of weapons.

Author Graham Greene was in Phat Diem at the time, on an assignment for Life magazine, and watched the battle from the bell tower of the Cathedral – later using the scene in his novel The Quiet American.

Above: Graham Greene, 1951

Henry Graham Greene (1904 – 1991) was an English writer and journalist regarded by many as one of the leading English novelists of the 20th century.

Combining literary acclaim with widespread popularity, Greene acquired a reputation early in his lifetime as a major writer, both of serious Catholic novels and of thrillers (“entertainments” as he termed them).

Through 67 years of writing, which included over 25 novels, he explored the conflicting moral and political issues of the modern world.

Above: Graham Greene, 1975

The Quiet American is a 1955 novel by English author Graham Greene.

Narrated in the first person by journalist Thomas Fowler, the novel depicts the breakdown of French colonialism in Vietnam and early American involvement in the Vietnam War.

A subplot concerns a love triangle between Fowler, an American CIA agent named Alden Pyle, and Phuong, a young Vietnamese woman.

The novel implicitly questions the foundations of growing American involvement in Vietnam in the 1950s, exploring the subject through links among its three main characters – Fowler, Pyle and Phuong.

The novel has received much attention due to its prediction of the outcome of the Vietnam War and subsequent American foreign policy since the 1950s.

Greene portrays Pyle as so blinded by American exceptionalism that he cannot see the calamities he brings upon the Vietnamese.

Above: The German professor Sieglinde Lemke argued that the Statue of Liberty “signifies this proselytizing mission as the natural extension of the US’ sense of itself as an exceptional nation.”

The book uses Greene’s experiences as a war correspondent for the Times and Le Figaro in French Indochina from 1951 to 1954.

He was inspired to write The Quiet American during October 1951 while driving back to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) from Ben Tre province, accompanied by an American aid worker who lectured him about finding a “third force in Vietnam“.

Thomas Fowler is a British journalist in his fifties who has covered the French War in Vietnam for more than two years.

Above: Michael Caine (Thomas Fowler), The Quiet American (2002)

He meets a young American idealist named Alden Pyle, a CIA agent working undercover.

Pyle lives his life and forms his opinions based on foreign policy books written by York Harding with no real experience in Southeast Asia matters.

Harding‘s theory is that neither Communism nor colonialism are proper in foreign lands like Vietnam, but rather a “Third Force” — usually a combination of traditions — works best.

Above: Brendon Fraser (Alden Pyle), The Quiet American (2002)

When they first meet, the earnest Pyle asks Fowler to help him understand more about the country, but the older man’s cynical realism does not sink in.

Pyle is certain that American power can put the Third Force in charge, but he knows little about Indochina and is recasting it into theoretical categories.

Fowler has a live-in lover, Phuong, who is only 20 years old and was previously a dancer at the Arc-en-Ciel (Rainbow) on Jaccareo Road, in Cholon.

Above: Do Thi Hai Yen (Phuong), The Quiet American (2002)

Above: Binh Tay Market in Cho Lon, Ho Chi Minh City

Her sister’s intent is to arrange a marriage for Phuong that will benefit herself and her family.

The sister disapproves of their relationship, as Fowler is already married and is an atheist.

So, at a dinner with Fowler and Phuong, Pyle meets her sister, who immediately starts questioning Pyle about his viability for marriage with Phuong.

Above: Do Thi Hai Yen (Phuong) and sister Miss Hei, The Quiet American (2002)

Towards the end of the dinner, Pyle dances with Phuong, and Fowler notes how poorly the upstart dances.

Above: Do Thi Hai Yen (Phuong) and Brendon Fraser (Alden Pyle), The Quiet American (2002)

Fowler then goes to Phat Diem to witness a battle there…..

Above: Phat Diem

From The Quiet American:

Above: Movie poster of The Quiet American (2002)

I wished I had never heard the rumour about Phat Diem, or that the rumour had dealt with any other town than the one place in the North where my friendship with a French naval officer would allow me to slip in, uncensored, uncontrolled.

A newspaper scoop?

Not in those days when all the world wanted to read about was Korea.

Above: Images of the Korean War (1950 – 1953)

A chance of death?

Why should I want to die when Phuong slept beside me every night?

But I knew the answer to that question.

From childhood I had never believed in permanence, and yet I had longed for it.

Always I was afraid of losing happiness.

This month, next year, Phuong would leave me.

If not next year, in three years.

Above: Do Thi Hai Yen (Phuong) and Michael Caine (Thomas Fowler), The Quiet American (2002)

Death was the only absolute value in my world.

Lose life and one would lose nothing again for ever.

I envied those who could believe in a God and I distrusted them.

I felt they were keeping their courage up with a fable of the changeless and the permanent.

Death was far more certain than God.

Above: God, The Creation of Adam, Michelangelo, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

With death there would be no longer the daily possibility of love dying.

The nightmare of a future of boredom and indifference would lift.

I could never have been a pacifist.

To kill a man was surely to grant him an immeasurable benefit.

Oh yes, people always, everywhere, loved their enemies.

It was their friends they preserved for pain and vacuity.

From the bell tower of the Cathedral, the battle was only picturesque, fixed like a panorama of the Boer War in an old Illustrated London News.

Above: Boers at the Battle of Spion Kop, 1900

An aeroplane was parachuting supplies to an isolated post in the Calcaire, those strange weather-eroded
mountains on the Annam border that look like piles of pumice, and because it always returned to the same place for its glide, it might never have moved, and the parachute was always there in the same spot, halfway to Earth.

From the plain the mortar bursts rose unchangingly, the smoke as solid as stone.

In the market the flames burnt palely in the sunlight.

The tiny figures of the parachutists moved in single file along the canals, but at this height they appeared stationary.

Even the priest who sat in a corner of the tower never changed his position as he read in his breviary.

The War was very tidy and clean at that distance.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

I had come in before dawn in a landing-craft from Nam Dinh.

We couldn’t land at the naval station because it was cut off by the enemy who completely surrounded the town at a range of six hundred yards, so the boat ran in beside the flaming market.

We were an easy target in the light of the flames, but for some reason no one fired.

Everything was quiet, except for the flop and crackle of the burning stalls.

I could hear a Senegalese sentry on the river’s edge shift his stance.

Above: Flag of Senegal, formerly a part of French West Africa

I had known Phat Diem well in the days before the attack – the one long narrow street of
wooden stalls, cut up every hundred yards by a canal, a church and a bridge.

At night it had been lit only by candles or small oil lamps (there was no electricity in Phat Diem
except in the French officers’ quarters), and day or night the street was packed and noisy.

In its strange medieval way, under the shadow and protection of the Prince Bishop, it had been the most living town in all the country.

Above: Graham Greene, Phat Diem, 1951

Now when I landed and walked up to the officers’ quarters it was the most dead.

Rubble and broken glass and the smell of burnt paint and plaster, the long street empty as far as the sight could reach, reminded me of a London thoroughfare in the early morn – after an all-clear:

One expected to see a placard:

Unexploded Bomb“.

The front wall of the officers’ house had been blown out, and the houses across the street were in ruins.

Above: Firefighters tackling a blaze amongst ruined buildings after an air raid on London, 1941

Coming down the river from Nam Dinh I had learnt from Lieutenant Peraud what had happened.

He was a serious young man, a Freemason.

To him it was like a judgment on the superstitions of his fellows.

Above: Logo of the Freemasons

The Bishop of Phat Diem had once visited Europe and acquired there a devotion to Our Lady of Fatima – that vision of the Virgin which appeared, so Roman Catholics believe, to a group of children in Portugal.

When he came home, he built a grotto in her honour in the Cathedral precincts, and he celebrated her feast day every year with a procession.

Relations with the Colonel in charge of the French and Vietnamese troops had always been strained since the day when the authorities had disqualified the Bishop’s private army.

Above: Grenade logo of the French Foreign Legion

This year the Colonel who had some sympathy with the Bishop, for to each of them his country was more
important than Catholicism – made a gesture of amity and walked with his senior officers in the front of the procession.

Never had a greater crowd gathered in Phat Diem to do honour to Our Lady of Fatima.

Even many of the Buddhists – who formed about half the population – could not bear to miss the fun, and those who had belief in neither God believed that somehow all these banners and incense burners and the golden remonstrance would keep war from their homes.

All that was left of the Bishop’s army brass band led the procession.

The French officers, pious by order of the Colonel, followed like choirboys through the gateway into the Cathedral precincts, past the white statue of the Sacred Heart that stood on an island in the little lake before the Cathedral, under the bell tower with spreading oriental wings and into the carved wooden cathedral with its gigantic pillars formed out of single trees and the scarlet lacquer work of the altar, more Buddhist than Christian.

From all the villages between the canals, from that Low Country landscape where young green rice shoots and golden harvests take the place of tulips and churches and windmills, the people poured in.

Above: Phat Diem

Nobody noticed the Vietminh agents who had joined the procession too, and that night as the main Communist battalion moved through the passes in the Calcaire, into the Tonkin plain, watched helplessly by the French outpost in the mountains above, the advance agents struck in Phat Diem.

Now after four days, with the help of parachutists, the enemy had been pushed back half a mile around the town.

This was a defeat:

No journalists were allowed, no cables could be sent, for the papers must carry only victories.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

The authorities would have stopped me in Hanoi if they had known of my purpose, but the further you get from headquarters, the looser becomes the control until, when you come within range of the enemy’s fire, you are a welcome guest.

What has been a menace for the État Major in Hanoi, a worry for the full Colonel in Nam Dinh, to the Lieutenant in the field is a joke, a distraction, a mark of interest from the outer world, so that for a few blessed hours he can dramatize himself a little and see in a false heroic light even his own wounded and dead.

Above: Modern Hanoi

The priest shut his breviary and said:

Well, that’s finished.

He was a European, but not a Frenchman, for the Bishop would not have tolerated a French priest in his Diocese.

He said apologetically:

I have to come up here, you understand, for a bit of quiet from all those poor people.

The sound of the mortar fire seemed to be closing in, or perhaps it was the enemy at last replying.

The strange difficulty was to find them:

There were a dozen narrow fronts, and between the canals, among the farm buildings and the paddy fields, innumerable opportunities for ambush.

Immediately below us stood, sat and lay the whole population of Phat Diem.

Catholics, Buddhists, pagans, they had all packed their most valued possessions – a cooking stove, a lamp, a mirror, a wardrobe, some mats, a holy picture – and moved into the Cathedral precincts.

Here in the North it would be bitterly cold when darkness came, and already the Cathedral was full:

There was no more shelter.

Even on the stairs to the bell tower every step was occupied, and all the time more people crowded through the gates, carrying their babies and household goods.

They believed, whatever their religion, that here they would be safe.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

While we watched, a young man with a rifle in Vietnamese uniform pushed his way through:

He was stopped by a priest, who took his rifle from him.

The Father at my side said in explanation:

We are neutral here.

This is God’s territory.

I thought:

It’s a strange poor population God has in his Kingdom, frightened, cold, starving.

Above: God the Father on His throne, Westphalia, Germany, late 15th century

I don’t know how we are going to feed these people,” the priest told me.

Above: Jesus feeding the multitude, Daniel of Uranc gospel, Armenian manuscript, 1433

You would think a great King would do better than that.

But then I thought:

It’s always the same wherever one goes.

It is not the most powerful rulers who have the happiest populations.

Little shops had already been set up below.

I said, “It’s like an enormous fair, isn’t it, but without one smiling face.

Above: Film poster, State Fair (1933)

The priest said:

They were terribly cold last night.

We have to keep the monastery gates shut or they would swamp us.”

“You all keep warm in there?”, I asked.

Not very warm.

And we would not have room for a length of them.

He went on.

Above: Interior of Phat Diem Cathedral

I know what you are thinking.

It is essential for some of us to keep well.

We have the only hospital in Phat Diem, and our only nurses are these nuns.

And your surgeon?

I do what I can.

I saw then that his soutane was speckled with blood.

He said, “Did you come up here to find me?

No.

I wanted to get my bearings.

Above: Michael Caine (Thomas Fowler), The Quiet American (2002)

I asked you because I had a man up here last night.

He wanted to go to confession.

He had got a little frightened, you see, with what he had seen along the canal.

One couldn’t blame him.

It’s bad along there?

The parachutists caught them in a crossfire.

Poor souls.

I thought perhaps you were feeling the same.

I’m not a Roman Catholic.

I don’t think you could even call me a Christian.

It’s strange what fear does to a man.

It would never do that to me.

If I believed in any God at all, I should still hate the idea of confession.

Kneeling in one of your boxes.

Exposing myself to another man.

You must excuse me, Father, but to me it seems morbid – unmanly even.”

Oh,” he said lightly.

I expect you are a good man.

I don’t suppose you’ve ever had much to regret.


I looked along the churches, where they ran down evenly spaced between the canals, towards the sea.

A light flashed from the second tower.

I said:

You haven’t kept all your churches neutral.”

It isn’t possible.”, he said.

The French have agreed to leave the Cathedral precincts alone.

We can’t expect more.

That’s a Foreign Legion post you are looking at.”

I’ll be going.

So long.

Goodbye, Father.

Goodbye and good luck.

Be careful of snipers.

Above: Phat Diem

I had to push my way through the crowd to get out, past the lake and the white statue with its sugary outspread arms, into the long street.

I could see for nearly three quarters of a mile each way.

Above: Phat Diem

There were only two living beings in all that length besides myself – two soldiers with camouflaged helmets going slowly away up the edge of the street, their guns at the ready.

I say the living, because one body lay in a doorway with its head in the road.

The buzz of flies collecting there and the squelch of the soldiers’ boots growing fainter and fainter were the only sounds.

I walked quickly past the body, turning my head the other way.

A few minutes later when I looked back I was quite alone with my shadow.

There were no sounds except the sounds I made.

I felt as though I were a mark on a firing range.

It occurred to me that if something happened to me in this street it might be many hours before I was
picked up:

Time for the flies to collect.

When I had crossed two canals, I took a turning that led to a church.

A dozen men sat on the ground in the camouflage of parachutists, while two officers examined a man.

Nobody paid me any attention when I joined them.

One man, who wore the long antennae of a walkie-talkie, said:

We can move now.”

Everybody stood up.


I asked them in my bad French whether I could accompany them.

An advantage of this war was that a European face proved in itself a passport on the field:

A European could not be suspected of being an enemy agent.

Who are you?“, the Lieutenant asked.

I am writing about the war,” I said.

Above: Alan Wood, war correspondent for the Daily Express, types a dispatch during the Battle of Arnhem, 18 September 1944

American?

Above: Coat of arms of the United States of America

No, English.

Above: Flag of England

He said:

It is a very small affair, but if you wish to come with us…

He began to take off his steel helmet.

No, no,” I said.

That is for combatants.

As you wish.

Above: Movie poster for The Steel Helmet (1951)


We went out behind the church in single file, the lieutenant leading, and halted for a moment on a canal bank for the soldier with the walkie-talkie to get contact with the patrols on either flank.

The mortar shells tore over us and burst out of sight.

We had picked up more men behind the Church and were now about thirty strong.

The lieutenant explained to me in a low voice, stabbing a finger at his map:

Three hundred have been reported in this village here.

Perhaps massing for tonight.

We don’t know.

No one has found them yet.

How far?

Three hundred yards.”

Words came over the wireless and we went on in silence, to the right – the straight canal, to
the left – low scrub and fields and scrub again.

All clear,” the lieutenant whispered with a reassuring wave as we started.

Forty yards on, another canal, with what was left of a bridge, a single plank without rails, ran across our front.

The lieutenant motioned to us to deploy and we squatted down facing the unknown territory ahead, thirty feet off, across the plank.

The men looked at the water and then, as though by a word of command, all together, they looked away.

For a moment I didn’t see what they had seen, but when I saw, my mind went back, I don’t know why, to the Chalet and the female impersonators and the young soldiers whistling and Pyle saying:

This isn’t a bit suitable.


The canal was full of bodies:

I am reminded now of an Irish stew containing too much meat.

The bodies overlapped:

One head, seal-grey, and anonymous as a convict with a shaven scalp, stuck up out of the water like a buoy.

There was no blood:

I suppose it had flowed away a long time ago.

I have no idea how many there were:

They must have been caught in a crossfire, trying to get back, and I suppose every man of us along the bank was thinking:

Two can play at that game.

I too took my eyes away.

We didn’t want to be reminded of how little we counted, how quickly, simply and anonymously death came.

Even though my reason wanted the state of death, I was afraid like a virgin of the act.

I would have liked death to come with due warning, so that I could prepare myself.

For what?

I didn’t know, nor how, except by taking a look around at the little I would be leaving.

The Lieutenant sat beside the man with the walkie-talkie and stared at the ground between his feet.

The instrument began to crackle instructions and with a sigh as though he had been roused from sleep he got up.

There was an odd comradeliness about all their movements, as though they were equals engaged on a task they had performed together times out of mind.

Nobody waited to be told what to do.

Two men made for the plank and tried to cross it, but they were unbalanced by the weight of their arms and had to sit astride and work their way across a few inches at a time.

Another man had found a punt hidden in some bushes down the canal and he worked it to where the Lieutenant stood.

Six of us got in and he began to pole it towards the other bank, but we ran on a shoal of bodies and stuck.

He pushed away with his pole, sinking it into this human clay, and one body was released and floated up all its length beside the boat like a bather lying in the sun.

Then we were free again, and once on the other side we scrambled out, with no backward look.

No shots had been fired:

We were alive:

Death had withdrawn, perhaps as far as the next canal.

I heard somebody just behind me say with great seriousness:

Gott sei dank.

Except for the Lieutenant they were most of them Germans.

Above: Flag of Germany

Beyond was a group of farm-buildings:

The Lieutenant went in first, bugging the wall, and we followed at six-foot intervals in single file.

Then the men, again without an order, scattered through the farm.

Life had deserted it – not so much as a hen had been left behind, though hanging on the walls of what had been the living room were two hideous oleographs of the Sacred Heart and the Mother and Child which gave the whole ramshackle group of buildings a European air.

One knew what these people believed even if one didn’t share their belief:

They were human beings, not just grey drained cadavers.


So much of war is sitting around and doing nothing, waiting for somebody else.

With no guarantee of the amount of time you have left it doesn’t seem worth starting even a train of thought.

Doing what they had done so often before, the sentries moved out.

Anything that stirred ahead of us now was enemy.

The Lieutenant marked his map and reported our position over the radio.

A noonday hush fell:

Even the mortars were quiet and the air was empty of planes.

One man doodled with a twig in the dirt of the farmyard.

After a while it was as if we had been forgotten by war.

I hoped that Phuong had sent my suits to the cleaners.

A cold wind ruffled the straw of the yard, and a man went modestly behind a barn to relieve himself.

I tried to remember whether I had paid the British Consul in Hanoi for the bottle of whisky he had allowed me.

Two shots were fired to our front, and I thought:

‘This is it.

Now it comes.

It was all the warning I wanted.

I awaited, with a sense of exhilaration, the permanent thing.

But nothing happened.

Once again I had “over-prepared the event“.

Only long minutes afterwards one of the sentries entered and reported something to the Lieutenant.

I caught the phrase:

Deux civils.

The lieutenant said to me:

We will go and see.”

Following the sentry, we picked our way along a muddy overgrown path between two fields.

Twenty yards beyond the farm buildings, in a narrow ditch, we came on what we sought:

A woman and a small boy.

They were very clearly dead:

A small neat clot of blood on the woman’s forehead.

The child might have been sleeping.

He was about six years old and he lay like an embryo in the womb with his little bony knees drawn up.

Mal chance“, the lieutenant said.

He bent down and turned the child over.

He was wearing a holy medal round his neck.

I said to myself:

The juju doesn’t work.

There was a gnawed piece of loaf under his body.

I thought:

I hate war.


The lieutenant said, “Have you seen enough?“, speaking savagely, almost as though I had
been responsible for these deaths:

Perhaps to the soldier, the civilian is the man who employs him to kill, who includes the guilt of murder in the pay envelope and escapes responsibility.

We walked back to the farm and sat down again in silence on the straw, out of the wind, which like an animal seemed to know that dark was coming.

The man who had doodled was relieving himself, and the man who had relieved himself was doodling.

I thought how in those moments of quiet, after the sentries had been posted, they must have believed it safe to move from the ditch.

I wondered whether they had lain there long – the bread had been very dry.

This farm was probably their home.

The radio was working again.

The lieutenant said wearily:

They are going to bomb the village.

Patrols are called in for the night.

We rose and began our journey back, punting again around the shoal of bodies, filing past the Church.

We hadn’t gone very far, and yet it seemed a long enough journey to have made with the killing of those two as the only result.

Above: Phat Diem

The planes had gone up.

Behind us, the bombing began.

Dark had fallen by the time I reached the officers’ quarters, where I was spending the night.

The temperature was only a degree above zero.

The sole warmth anywhere was in the blazing market.

With one wall destroyed by a bazooka and the doors buckled, canvas curtains couldn’t shut out the draughts.

The electric dynamo was not working.

We had to build barricades of boxes and books to keep the candles burning.

Above: Soldier with a bazooka

I played Quatre Vingt-et-un for Communist currency with a Captain Sorel:

It wasn’t possible to play for drinks as I was a guest of the mess.

The luck went wearisomely back and forth.

I opened my bottle of whisky to try to warm us a little.

The others gathered round.

The Colonel said:

This is the first glass of whisky I have had since I left Paris.

Above: Paris, France

A lieutenant came in from his round of the sentries.

Perhaps we shall have a quiet night,” he said.

They will not attack before four.”, the Colonel said.

Have you a gun?“, he asked me.


No

I’ll find you one.

Better keep it on your pillow.”

He added courteously:

I am afraid you will find your mattress rather hard.

And at three-thirty the mortar-fire will begin.

We try to break up any concentrations.”

How long do you suppose this will go on?

Who knows?

We can’t spare any more troops from Nam Dinh.

This is just a diversion.

If we can hold out with no more help than we got two days ago, it is, one may say, a victory.

Above: Modern Nam Dinh City

The wind was up again, prowling for an entry.

The canvas curtain sagged.

I was reminded of Polonius stabbed behind the arras.

The candle wavered.

The shadows were theatrical.

Above: Polonius (William Shakespeare’s Hamlet) behind the curtain, Jehan-Georges Vibert, 1868

We might have been a company of barn stormers.

Have your posts held?

As far as we know.

He said with an effect of great tiredness:

This is nothing, you understand, an affair of no importance compared with what is happening a hundred kilometres away at Hoa Binh.

That is a battle.

Above: Movie poster for Hoa Binh (1970)

Another glass, Colonel?

Thank you, no.

It is wonderful, your English whisky, but it is better to keep a little for the night in case of need.

I think, if you will excuse me, I will get some sleep.

One cannot sleep after the mortars start.

Captain Sorel, you will see that Monsieur Fowler has everything he needs, a candle, matches, a revolver.

He went into his room.

It was the signal for all of us.

They had put a mattress on the floor for me in a small storeroom and I was surrounded by wooden cases.

I stayed awake only a very short time – hardness of the floors was like rest.

I wondered, but latently without jealousy, whether Phuong was at the flat.

The possession of a body tonight seemed a very small thing:

Perhaps that day I had seen too many bodies which belonged to no one, not even to themselves.

We were all expendable.

When I fell asleep I dreamed of Pyle.

He was dancing all by himself on a stage, stiffly, with his arms held out to an invisible partner, and I sat and watched him from a seat like a music stool with a gun in my hand in case anyone should interfere with his dance.

A programme set up by the stage, like the numbers in an English music-hall, read:

The Dance of Love“.

Somebody moved at the back of the theatre and I held my gun tighter.

Then I woke.

My hand was on the gun they had lent me.

A man stood in the doorway with a candle in his hand.

He wore a steel helmet which threw a shadow over his eyes.

It was only when he spoke that I knew he was Pyle.

He said shyly:

I’m awfully sorry to wake you up.

They told me I could sleep in here.

I was still not fully awake.

Where did you get that helmet?“, I asked.

Oh, somebody lent it to me,” he said vaguely.

He dragged in after him a military kitbag and began to pull out a wool-lined sleeping bag.

You are very well equipped,” I said, trying to recollect why either of us should be here.

This is the standard travelling kit,” he said, “of our medical aid teams.

They lent me one in Hanoi.

He took out a thermos and a small spirit stove, a hair-brush, a shaving-set and a tin of rations.

I looked at my watch.

It was nearly three in the morning…..

Alden Pyle is the “quiet American” of the title.

A CIA agent working undercover, Pyle is thoughtful, soft-spoken, intellectual, serious, and idealistic.

He comes from a privileged East Coast background.

His father is a renowned professor of underwater erosion whose picture has appeared on the cover of Time magazine.

His mother is well respected in their community.

Pyle is a brilliant graduate of Harvard University.

He has studied theories of government and society, and is particularly devoted to a scholar named York Harding.

Harding‘s theory is that neither Communism nor colonialism is the answer in foreign lands like Vietnam, but rather a “Third Force“, usually a combination of traditions, works best.

Pyle has read Harding‘s numerous books many times and has adopted Harding’s thinking as his own.

Pyle also strives to be a member of this “Third Force“.

US military counter-insurgency expert Edward Lansdale, who was stationed in Vietnam from 1953 to 1957, is sometimes cited as a model for Pyle’s character.

In fact Greene did not meet Lansdale until after completing much of the novel.

According to Greene, the inspiration for the character of Pyle was Leo Hochstetter, an American serving as public affairs director for the Economic Aid Mission in Indochina who was assumed by the French to “belong to the CIA”, and lectured him on the “long drive back to Saigon on the necessity of finding a ‘third force in Vietnam.’”

Above> Edward Lansdale (1908 – 1987)

After successfully ending the left-wing Huk insurgency in the Philippines and building support for Magsaysay’s presidency, CIA director Allen Dulles instructed Lansdale to “do what you did in the Philippines in Vietnam“. 

Above: Flag of the Philippines

Above: Ramon Magsaysay (1907 – 1957)

Above: Allen Dulles (1893 – 1969)

Lansdale had previously been a member of General John W. O’Daniel’s mission to Indochina in 1953, acting as an advisor to French forces on special counter-guerrilla operations against the Viet Minh.

Above: John W. O’Daniel (1894 – 1975)

From 1954 to 1957, he was stationed in Saigon (HCMC) as the head of the Saigon Military Mission.

During this period, he was active in the training of the Vietnamese National Army (VNA), organizing the Caodaist militias under Trinh Minh Thé in an attempt to bolster the VNA, a propaganda campaign encouraging Vietnam’s Catholics to move to the south as part of Operation Passage to Freedom, and spreading claims that North Vietnamese agents were making attacks in South Vietnam.

Above: Flag of the (South) Vietnamese National Army

Above: Caodaist eye logo

Above: Trinh Minh Thé (1920 – 1955)

(Caodaism is a monotheistic, syncretic religious movement, officially established in the city of Tây Ninh in southern Vietnam in 1926.

The full name of the religion is Đại Đạo Tam Kỳ Phổ Độ (The Great Faith for the Third Universal Redemption).

Adherents engage in practices such as prayer, veneration of ancestors, nonviolence and vegetarianism, with the goal of unity with God and freedom from samsara (worldly concerns). 

Above: The “Holy See” temple in Tây Ninh is the centre of the main Caodaist church.

Estimates of the number of Caodaists in Vietnam vary:

Government figures estimate 4.4 million Caodaists affiliated to the Cao Đài Tây Ninh Holy See, with numbers rising up to 6 million if other branches are added.

However estimates vary.

The United Nations found about 2.5 million Cao Dai followers in Vietnam as of January 2015.

An additional number of adherents in the tens of thousands, primarily ethnic Vietnamese, live in North America, Cambodia, Europe and Australia as part of the Cao Dai diaspora.)

Above: Flag of Caodaism

Operation Passage to Freedom changed the religious balance in Vietnam.

Before the War, the majority of Vietnamese Catholics lived in North Vietnam, but after the operation the South held the majority, 55% of which were refugees from the North.

Lansdale accomplished that by dropping leaflets in the Northern hamlets stating that “Christ has gone to the South” and other leaflets showing maps with concentric circles emanating from Hanoi suggesting an imminent nuclear bomb strike on the Northern capital.

Above: Propaganda poster exhorting Northerners to move South:
Go South to avoid Communism.”
Southern compatriots are welcoming Northern brothers and sisters with open arms.

On 30 June 1954, Bishop Tu, along with 143 priests and 80,000 Phat Diem parishioners, migrated to the South. 

According to data from the book Vietnam History, Bishop Le Huu Tu emigrated with 119 priests who were in charge of 68 parishes, 46 major seminarians, and 145 minor seminarians. 

At the end of June 1954, the wave of emigration from Phat Diem began. 

Above: A North Vietnamese Catholic evacuee.
Catholics represented approximately 85% of the refugees in South Vietnam.

Bishop Le Huu Tu ordered the parishioners to gather in groups to support each other and let them settle in the areas of Binh Xuyen, Gia Kiem, Phuong Lam, Bao Loc, and Can Tho. 

He built a minor seminary in Phu Nhuan, the Lovers of the Cross in Gô Vàp (a district of HCMC), right after he emigrated to continue his pastoral programs. 

In the 1960s, Bishop Tu built Phat Diem retirement home in Go Vap and built a facility in Rome to create financial means to help Phat Diem Diocese. 

In South Vietnam, Bishop Le Huu Tu assisted parishioners and priests in finding a place to settle down. 

After the situation stabilized, he reopened religious activities. 

Above: Gia Dinh Park, Gô Vàp, Ho Chi Minh City

A few years later, Bishop Tu was appointed by the Southern Bishops Conference to be the Director of the newly established Catholic Center of Vietnam and as the General Chaplain of the Army of the Republic of Vietnam. 

He also held the position of Director of Catholic Charities. 

He held these positions briefly before joining the Second Vatican Council. 

During his participation in the Council, he lived at Phat Diem headquarters in Rome, building and developing the facility that later became Foyer Phat Diem

Above: St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City – Hall of the Second Vatican Council (1962 – 1965)

Bishop Le Huu Tu also went to France to visit Vietnamese Cistercian monks (L’Ordre de Cîteaux) and received news of cancer.

Above: Abbaye de Cîteaux, France

Due to poor health, he retired to Chau Son Don Duong Monastery, a branch of the Cistercian Order of Phuoc Son. 

Then he went to retire at Phat Diem Nursing Home in Gô Vàp.

Above: Tombstone of Le Huu Tuu, Notre Dame Cathedral, HCMC

The Christmas festival at Phat Diem Cathedral is the biggest cultural event of Phat Diem Diocese parishioners as well as Kim Son people. 

About half a month before the festival, Phat Diem’s ​​parishioners begin to prepare for the most important day of the year for the followers. 

They spend their time on redecorating the Church for the upcoming holiday.

Christmas Eve takes place in cold weather.

The Bishop’s Palace of Phat Diem shimmers with colourful lights. 

The system of caves, pine trees, and luminescent stars create a unique and magnificent space. 

On the church grounds, Catholics prepare to attend Mass at the Cathedral. 

The Christmas ceremony in Phat Diem includes a vigil in front of the cave and Mass. 

At the end of the ceremony is a procession of flowers and a statue of the Child Jesus. 

The procession is conducted in a respectful and sacred manner. 

The meaning of this ritual is to receive the Lord into the hearts of the people. 

After this ceremony, the statue of God is brought inside the cave for parishioners to worship.

On the front stage between the communal house and the lake is the place where Christmas carols are performed to serve the people and visitors. 

At the end of the Christmas carol program, it is time to go inside the Cathedral.

Everyone prays together for a peaceful life, for peaceful and happy people. 

Christmas Day is an opportunity to give gifts to each other.

This is also an opportunity for parishioners to do charitable works, such as giving gifts to the poor, the homeless.

Children eagerly wait for the arrival of Santa Claus.

Family and friends invite each other to home parties.

During this Christmas time, Kim Son District Police coordinate with the Management Board of the Phat Diem Church to plan transportation, accommodation, and parking areas, and to place signposts to guide and separate traffic within the town.

Above: Christmas Eve, Phat Diem

There are moments when the traveller begins to question what the point of all the travelling has been.

As Heidi‘s scribe, there are certain moments in which I question the value of travel writing.

I know that it is important for the traveller to eventually return to where they came from, to write and try to capture the experience of being an outsider in an unfamiliar place, a stranger in a strange land.

Much of travel writing is soulless, transactional, with lists and charts and “if you go” advice.

Yet, at its most ideal, at its most powerful, the worth of the genre lies in exploring the tensions of our interior journey versus our exterior itinerary, in examining our expectations and hopes and biases of a destination versus the reality of what we found, in measuring the person we are at home versus the person we become abroad.

When I write the account of Heidi‘s journeys or my own, it is nearly impossible to convey the truth of the experience.

Some folks say that we are running out of places to go, that there are very few undiscovered places left in the world.

I disagree.

Each moment in time is a new discovery, each person’s experience lends significance to a place.

Part of the education of travel lies in seeing things with fresh and ignorant eyes – and in being wrong.

Which is why is it important to check in with the thoughts of the traveller from time to time, to retrace the journeys through the merest memories that remain vivid in the mind, to ask questions of where one has gone before.

Travel teaches that the things of the world are only ever temporary, as temporary and transient as the life of the traveller.

But perhaps the well-chosen word, the well-received account, can make an experience feel eternal, permanent, a fundamental fixture of the nature of existence.

To travel, to interact with and witness the world.

Life is a highway.

The world is a strange place, but no stranger than the stranger who explores it.

For the traveller knows that they may never walk this way again, and even if we do, the journey will never be precisely the same as the journey previous.

Travel is only ever about a moment in time and space, but it is also about how we choose to hold that moment in our memories.

Travel is both past and present, eternal and ephemeral, monumental and momentary.

How you travel, never mind what for, depends on who you are, the resources you have access to, what you look like, and how the world perceives your presence in it.

Travel is not the same for all of us.

The words I write of Heidi‘s experiences are far removed from the thoughts and feelings she may have felt, may continue to feel, when the mind’s eye recalls the places she has seen.

I can only imagine the interior universe she inhabits, so alien from my own, so separate from each other in terms of age, gender, personal histories, time and distance.

We speak of a common humanity, and yet each of us maintains a visceral defensiveness, a protective suspiciousness that individual identity demands.

Pleasure and discomfort exist simultaneously, but the latter is ignored in favour of the former.

The Vietnam I share with you is not necessarily the ‘Nam she knew.

I will never have a camera inside her head nor a record of the thoughts her mind produces nor a register of the feelings her heart generates.

Above: Jim Carrey (Truman Burbank), The Truman Show (1998)

Can a man ever understand the complexity of Woman, so torn between the animal hedonistic emotional and the calculating multitasking computer practical?

So I write what I read and I make educated guesses of what a person might feel in situations that present themselves.

Did Heidi travel to Phat Diem?

I don’t know for sure.

Above: Phát Diêm

Perhaps Heidi herself no longer remembers, for she has travelled so much and so far that the memory of the cathedral of Phat Diem may have become lost in the tangible tangle of thoughts of the temples of Thailand, the mosques of Morocco, the beaches of the Middle East and Mexico, and adventures in Central and South America that followed.

Above: Flag of Thailand

Above: Flag of Morocco

Above: Flag of Egypt

Above: Flag of Israel

Above: Flag of Mexico

I know of the starts and stops of her Pilgrim’s Progress, but I know not the method nor madness of the meandering between them.

I can only guess, and hope, that places that caught my eye in my research also caught her eye in her travels.

Phat Diem, to me, seems simultaneously a symbol of both the worst and the best of humanity, its ugliness and its beauty.

I know not if Heidi, had she visited Phat Diem, knew all, of which I have written, about the place during her sojourn there.

She is a well-educated woman, well-travelled, well-read, well-seasoned.

But did she know of Father Six and Monseigneur Tu and Graham Greene?

Would this have mattered to her if she had?

Would a woman view a landscape, as Nguyen Cong Tru saw Phat Diem, as resembling the form of another naked woman?

Doubtful.

Certainly I don’t know the history and personalities of all the places I have visited.

Certainly I don’t see phallic symbology in tall buildings nor vaginal valleys in the volume of canyons.

Perhaps we assign significance and beauty where we wish to see it, much like the intimate partner is given a glory of body and spirit that they may not actually possess.

Continue south down the coast.

Thanh Hóa is the capital and historical centre of politics, economy, culture, education and entertainment of Thanh Hóa Province.

The city is situated in the east of the province on the Ma River (Sông Mã), about 150 kilometers (93 miles) south of Hanoi and 1,560 kilometers (969 miles) north of Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC).

Thanh Hóa is located in centre of a plain with many scattered rocky mountains surrounding the city.

There are two main mountains: Hàm Rồng and Mật Sơn.

Hàm Rồng Mountain begins in Thiệu Dương commune, which is about 8 km from the city centre, along the right bank of the Ma River to Hàm Rồng Thanh Hóa Bridge pier.

Above: Le Loi Avenue, Thanh Hoa

The Thanh Hóa Bridge, spanning the Song Ma River, is situated 3 miles (4.8 km) northeast of Thanh Hóa.

The Vietnamese gave it the nickname Hàm Rồng (Dragon’s Jaw).

In 1965 during the Vietnam War, it was the objective of many attacks by US Air Force and US Navy aircraft which would fail to destroy the bridge until 1972, even after hundreds of attacks.

The bridge was restored in 1973.

As of 2016, the bridge still stands.

Above: The Thanh Hóa Bridge today

Originally built by the French during the colonial era in Vietnam, the Thanh Hóa bridge was sabotaged by the Viet Minh in 1945.

From 1957, the Vietnamese started rebuilding it.

Allowing the passage of both road and rail traffic, it was a vital link between different regions of North Vietnam, and when the War started, became a strategic passage for supplies and reinforcements sent to the Viet Cong fighting in South Vietnam.

In their first air combat, a small force of seemingly mismatched MiG-17s inflicted significant losses on much larger and more advanced American F-105 Thunderchief at a cost of three of their own, with an F-100 Super Sabre claiming the first probable American kill of the conflict.

The encounter led to significant changes in American tactics and training, and a return to dog-fighting in air combat doctrine.

Eventually, in 1972, the bridge was destroyed by USAF F-4 Phantoms using laser-guided bombs and US Navy Vought A-7s with advanced and conventional bombs.

Above: Thanh Hoa bridge after it was hit by laser-guided bombs

Ham Rông Mountain has 99 peaks and was a defensive entrenchment against the air attacks of Operation Rolling Thunder. 

Operation Rolling Thunder was the title of a gradual and sustained aerial bombardment campaign conducted by the US Second Air Division, the US Navy, and the Republic of (South) Vietnam Air Force (RVNAF) against the Democratic Republic of (North) Vietnam from 2 March 1965 until 2 November 1968, during the Vietnam War.

The four objectives of the operation (which evolved over time) were:

  • to boost the sagging morale of the Saigon regime in South Vietnam
  • to persuade North Vietnam to cease its support for the Communist insurgency in South Vietnam without sending ground forces into Communist North Vietnam
  • to destroy North Vietnam’s transportation system, industrial base, and air defenses
  • to halt the flow of men and materials into South Vietnam.

Attainment of these objectives was made difficult by both the restraints imposed upon the US and its allies by Cold War (1947 – 1991) exigencies, and by the military aid and assistance received by North Vietnam from its Communist allies, the Soviet Union, the People’s Republic of China and North Korea.

The operation became the most intense air/ground battle waged during the Cold War period.

It was the most difficult such campaign fought by the US since the aerial bombardment of Germany during World War II. Supported by its Communist allies, North Vietnam fielded a potent mixture of MiG fighter-interceptor jets and sophisticated air-to-air and surface-to-air weapons that created one of the most effective air defences ever faced by American military aviators.

This led to the cancellation of Operation Rolling Thunder in 1968.

The Ma River is the longest river flowing through the city, meandering around Ham Rong Mountain before flowing into the Southeast Asian Sea.

According to legend, the river water flows fast and powerful like a galloping horse, so is named Ma River. 

The river is the subject of the poem Tay Tien by poet Quang Dung (‘Sông Mã is far away, Tay Tien‘). 

Above: Ma River

Quang Dung ( Bui Dinh Diem) (1921 – 1988 ) was a Vietnamese painter, musician and poet, the author of a number of famous poems.

He belongs to the generation of northern poets who grew up and became famous after the August Revolution (1945).

His poem “Tay Tien” was loved by many people, was published and widely disseminated, and was loved by many people even in the South at that time. 

Although famous, he liked to live frugally and did not like to show off his name to anyone. 

When he received offers from the rich to compose poetry, he refused and said: 

Literature is so cheap?

His poem Tay Tien, with its bold heroic, tragic and romantic character, was chosen to be taught in the high school curriculum. 

Some of his poems have been set to music, such as Tay TienEyes of the Son Tay people, Ke stay, and especially the poem Can’t be titled have been set by four different musicians to music.

Typical works are:

  • Poems of the Red River (1956)
  • Que Huong Sea Forest (1957)
  • May Dau O (1986)
  • the short story Rice Flower Season (1950)
  • Memoirs of the Village of Battle Hill (1976)

Above: Quang Dung

Ma River is far away, Tay Tien!

Remember the mountains, remember to play with Sai Khao

Fog covered the tired army, Muong Lat 

Flowers come in the night slightly,

Steeping up a steep bend,

Pigs smoke alcohol, guns smell the sky.

A thousand feet up, a thousand feet down,

Whose house is Pha Luong 

It rains far away.

My sloppy friend doesn’t walk anymore,

Fall on the gun and forget about life!

In the afternoon, the majestic waterfall roared,

Muong Hich, the night and night tigers tease people.

Remember, Tay Tien, rice is on fire,

Mai Chau, the season I smell sticky sticky rice.

The camp was lit up with torches,

Behold, I’ve never worn my shirt.

The sound of the flute is manifold, she is shy,

Music about Vientiane builds poetic soul.

People go to Chau Moc that foggy afternoon,

Do you see the soul cleaning the shore?

Do you remember the figure on the single tree,

Drifting flood waters swaying flowers?

Tay Tien, the army does not grow hair,

The green army is fierce.

Staring eyes send dreams across the border,

Dreaming of Hanoi’s beautiful, fragrant night.

Scattered across the borders of distant lands,

Go to the battlefield without regretting the green life.

Ao dai changed mats, he returned to the land,

The Ma River roared a solo song.

Tay Tien who went without an appointment,

The way to the abyss is a split embryo.

Who went to Tay Tien that spring,

The soul of Sam Nua did not return.

Above: Ma River

Ma River was selected as the backbone to build a modern city on its banks.

In addition, there are five canals that were dug in order to support water supplies and to prevent drought and flooding.

Above: Canal outside Thanh Hoa

The Citadel of the Hô Dynasty was the capital of the Trân dynasty from 1398 to 1400 and the Hô dynasty  from 1400 to 1407.

The Citadel is a 15th century stone fortress in Thanh Hóa.

Tây Đô castle is rectangular in shape.

Above: Cóng Nam, Citadel of the Hò Dynasty

Its north – south side is 870.5 m (2,856 ft) in length and its east – west side is 883.5 m (2,899 ft) in length.

There are four gates:

  • the south fore gate
  • the north back gate
  • the east left gate
  • the west right gate

The southern gate is 9.5 m (31 ft) high and 15.17 m (49.8 ft) wide.

The castle was constructed from stone blocks, each of which is 2 × 1 × 0.7 m / 6.6 × 3.3 × 2.3 ft on average.

Except for its gates, the castle is mostly ruined.

The Citadel was inscribed on UNESCO World Heritage Sites on 27 June 2011.

The Thanh Hóa region was an area of popular support for Lê Loi (1384 – 1433) and the Lê dynasty in the 1580s, leading to the reestablishment of the southern court near the town following the withdrawal of Ming dynasty armies.

Above: Statue of Lê Loi, Thanh Hóa

Lê Loi was a Vietnamese rebel leader who founded the Later Lê dynasty and became the first emperor of the restored kingdom of Dai Viêt after it was conquered by the Ming dynasty.

In 1418, Lê Lợi and his followers in his homeland rose up against Ming rule, in the Lam Son Uprising (1418 – 1427).

Lê was known for his effective guerrilla tactics, including constantly moving on the wing and using small bands of brigands to ambush the regular Ming units.

Nine years later, his resistance movement successfully drove the Ming armies out of Vietnam and liberated the country.

Lê Lợi is among the most famous figures of Vietnamese history and one of its greatest heroes.

Above: Lê Loi statue, Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi

After 1945 the city was a stronghold of the Viet Minh.

In January 1946, the Viet Minh transported all local cells of the Việt Nam Quốc Dân Đảng (VNQDD/the Vietnamese Nationalist Party) (1927 – 1955) to the city.

During the Vietnam War (1955 – 1975), US strategic bombing destroyed much of the buildings and infrastructure.

The whole city has been totally rebuilt since then.

Above: Flag of the VNQDD

Thanh Hoa city has many kinds of cuisine with its own signature on the streets. 

The special dishes worth mentioning:

  • Nem chua (spring rolls)

  • Banh Khoai (pancakes containing celery, cabbage, dill, shrimp or eggs)

  • Shrimp cake (eaten with sweet and sour sauce)

  • Thanh Ha pagoda snails

  • Nam Ha bread 

In addition, in the city, one can also easily find specialties of other localities from across the province at traditional markets or shops.

To the north of the city is the Ham Rong Scenic Area, the central tourist area of Thanh Hoa Province, remembered in history books for its many historical and revolutionary relics.

Ham Rong Mountain, or Long Ham Mountain, formerly known as Dong Son, winds along the southern slope of the Ma River. 

The mountain range is flexible and consecutive like the shape of nine long undulating dragons, surrounded by immense pine hills and poetic valleys, finally rising to a high mountain and Long Quang Cave. 

The mountain is close to the river, where on the river bank there is a rocky outcrop shaped like a dragon’s nose, Long Tri. 

Near the water surface, there are two layers of rocks planted together like a dragon’s jaw, Long Ham. 

The full figure, viewed from the north, resembles a dragon’s head drinking water.

There are many beautiful landscapes: rivers, mountains, caves, such as:

  • Long Quang Cave

Long Quang Cave on Dragon Mountain is a scenic place that has attracted many people. 

Many writers had poems left in Long Quang Cave. 

On the cave, there are two doors on both sides, like two dragon eyes.

  • Hang Tien Cave

Around the foot of Ham Rong mountain, uphill along the steep stone steps about 30m is the entrance of Tien Son Cave. 

The Cave has three floors, often called Cave 1, Cave 2, and Cave 3.

Each cave has its own unique beauty. 

Here beautifully shaped stalactites are associated with legends and fairy tales.

Every cliff, every nook and cranny, sees everywhere hundreds of thousands of stories being born.

  • Phuong Mountain

  • Elephant Mountain

  • Dragon Mountain

  • Ma River  

Monuments such as:

  • the Temple of famous Generals Le Uy and Chu Van Luong

  • Dong Son ancient village with the famous Dong Son bronze drum

  • the Temple of Vietnamese Heroic Mothers and Heroic Martyrs, a very meaningful spiritual work

  • Truc Lam Ham Rong Zen Monastery

Opposite Ham Rong Mountain, on the north bank of the Ma River is Ngoc Mountain, also known as Chau Phong Mountain. 

From afar, the mountain looks like a dragon playing with a pearl.

To the south of the city is a beautiful landscape.

In its centre is Mat Son Mountain surrounded by other remnants such as:

  • Long Mountain

  • Tiger Mountain

  • Vong Phu Mountain

  • Dai Bi Pagoda

  • the Thai Temple of the Le Dynasty – a national historical and cultural relic of great national importance

In the center of Thanh Hóa City is the History Museum, which introduces visitors to the most general concepts of Vietnamese history and the unique cultural appearance of Thanh Hoa province.

I doubt Heidi lingered in Thanh Hóa nor diverted from the road on a quest for dragons, but rather she probably headed directly for nearby Sâm Son, for Heidi, being a woman from a northern land of mountains, gravitates towards the sun and the sea and the sand that Vietnam, even in March, famously offers.

Above: Sâm Son Beach

Going from Thanh Hoa City along Highway 47 to the east, looking to the southeast, you will see a large mountain range gradually appearing. 

That is Truong Le mountain range, towering and majestic.

The whole mountain range continually changes shape, sometimes soft and curved like a woman’s form, sometimes high and low undulating.

This is Vietnam, so it is no surprise that each mountain section is associated with different stories and legends for visitors to explore.

Sầm Sơn is a resort city, situated 16 km east of Thanh Hóa, on the shore of the South China Sea.

In 208 BC, Vietnamese King An Duong Vuong was tricked by his Chinese son-in-law Trong Thuy.

Trong Thuy had stolen the magic trigger of the King’s crossbow.

The Golden Tortoise had given the trigger to the King as a gift.

The trigger gave the crossbow extraordinary powers.

It was able to kill hundreds of people in a single shot.

Trong Thuy gave the trigger to his father Trieu Da.

Trieu Da led his Chinese army to invade Vietnam.

As his crossbow had lost its magic powers, King An Duong Vuong could not win the battle.

The King retreated with his daughter My Chau to the south.

Above: Statue of An Duong Vuong, Ho Chi Minh City

Local legend says that when King An Duong Vuong reached the location which is now Binh Hoa Village Quang Duong District, about 4km from Sâm Son Beach, he found himself completely cornered.

In front of him was the sea and behind him was the enemy.

In despair, he prayed to the Golden Tortoise to help him.

The Genie appeared and took the King to the Underwater Palace.

Above: Turtle statue, Cuong Temple, Dien An, Dien Chau, Nghe An

There is still a temple dedicated to King An Duong Vuong and Princess My Chau.

No one has ever seen the Golden Tortoise, but the land bears its shape very clearly.

Its hind legs are the two stretches of land pushing against the Truong Le Mountain.

Its head is another land stretch reaching as far as the Lach Hoi Estuary.

The Golden Tortoise is also called the Green Envoy, as this area is always green with trees.

Some distance from the shore is Truong Le Mountain.

It shields boats and beach from strong hurricanes.

The entire area is known as Sâm Son.

In the early days, Sam Son was only a collection of sun-baked sand dunes rising above long pools of blue water.

Before the 20th century, Sam Son City did not appear on any map of Vietnam.

Above: Sâm Son, 1905

The French colonial rulers began exploiting Sầm Sơn in 1906.

It became a famous place in what was then French Indochina.

At that time, many holiday villas were constructed here.

Above: Sâm Son

In 2007, Sầm Sơn celebrated the 100th anniversary of its establishment by organizing a Sầm Sơn Festival.

The Thanh Hóa provincial government invested US$375,000 to upgrade infrastructure along the sea, on water supply, lighting systems and an information network to prepare for the festival.

About 22 training courses were organized for 3,000 cyclists, cameramen, vendors and tour guides.

Above: Sâm Son

Sâm Son Beach is 6 km long, extending from the estuary of Lạch Hới to the foot of Trường Lệ Mountain.

Sam Son Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in Vietnam and is always the most crowded beach in the North. 

The coast here is flat with wide, soft sandy beaches, especially strong waves, though 100m away from the coast without worrying about flooding, with clear blue sea and moderate salt concentrations.

Every morning you can watch the sunrise, or visit the market to buy fresh seafood, such as crabs, shrimps, crabs, for famous dishes such as fish hot pot, snake hot pot, fish salad…..

For, like every self-respecting beach in Vietnam, there’s a corner reserved for fishing boats.

Above: Sâm Son

It’s not the sort of place that’s listed in Lonely Planet, and, fair enough, with hundreds of kilometres of beaches to choose from in Vietnam, you have to draw the editorial line somewhere.

Sâm Son Beach is what could be called a hyper-local tourism destination.

This is when a destination relies almost exclusively on visitors within a small catchment area.

Sâm Son is a popular beach destination, but it isn’t a nationwide travel hotspot.

Someone from Da Nang, Saigon (HCMC) or Can Tho wouldn’t travel all the way to Thanh Hóa just to go to Sam Son Beach.

You never see Sam Son advertised at travel agencies.

Above: Da Nang

Above: Notre Dame Cathedral, Ho Chi Minh City

Above: Can Tho

In 1981, Sâm Son only had ten hotels and motels belonging to government ministries and branches. 

In 2022, Sâm Son has now more than 700 hotels and motels with more than 20,000 standard rooms.

Most of the buildings look like they were built in the 1970s, eclectic concrete on beach front property.

New apartment towers continue to be constructed, but Sâm Son City has managed to retain some of its colonial buildings, albeit not in conspicuous locations.

Some of the back streets have some beautiful tree-lined streets that look like the old districts of Hanoi or Saigon.

In 2017, the FLC resort complex was inaugurated, changing the appearance of Sâm Son Beach. 

The project has a scale of 300 hectares with a total investment of more than VND 12,000 billion, including five-star hotels, golf courses, resorts, saltwater swimming pools, etc.

Currently, the project of Sea Square – Sâm Son’s newest high-class tourism, ecological, resort and entertainment urban complex of the Sun Group – has started construction with the aim of turning Sâm Son into a business centre, driving the local economy, turning tourism into a growth pillar of Thanh Hoa province. 

At the same time, the province continues to improve the infrastructure, especially tourism infrastructure, to turn Sâm Son City into the key tourist city of the country. 

Sun Group’s products will contribute to changing the face of the tourism industry, helping to attract more luxury and international tourists to the coastal city of Sâm Son.

I cannot decide if this is a good or a bad thing to wish for.

Due to its geographical location and limited transport options, Sam Son remains in a tourism blind spot that will likely keep it confined to this hyper-local market.

Before the advent of low cost airlines, flying to a beach resort destination wasn’t a viable option for most Vietnamese.

For a Hanoian it’s now just as easy to fly to Phu Quoc than to drive to Sâm Son.

Cities can of course reinvent themselves, so who knows what the future holds for Sâm Son.

Located on the top of the Truong Le mountain range in Sâm Son City, right next to Sâm Son Beach, Doc Cuoc is not only a beautiful temple but also a relic of Sâm Son. 

The Temple is very attractive to domestic and foreign tourists when they come to cool off and rest in Sâm Son. 

To get to the Temple, you have to climb 40 stone steps. 

n the Temple, there is a wooden statue of Doc Cuoc with only one arm and one leg. 

The statue’s legs are firmly planted on the boulder, the hand of the statue has a hammer in a swinging position to fight off sea demons. 

The temple has two bronze horse statues, a pair of monolithic statues, many parallel sentences praising the merits of the god Doc Cuoc.

Co Tien Temple is located on a beautiful, open location south of Truong Le Mountain, worshiping a daughter who worked as a doctor to save the world. 

According to an old legend, the girl disobeyed her father and married a poor man, so her father sent her away. 

The couple specialized in picking leaves to treat people in the area. 

Then one day, the couple dressed very well, walked hand in hand to the top of the mountain, and did not return. 

Since then, the house they lived in became Co Tien Temple. 

The temple was honored by a visit by Uncle Ho (Ho Chi Ming) in 1960.

It has been restored and repaired many times by the Ministry of Culture and Information.

It would be a shame if you come to Sam Son that you do not visit Trong Mai Island – a wonderful and meaningful experience. 

Hon Trong Mai is a famous scenic spot in Sam Son, associated with the legend of a faithful love, life and death, side by side of a young couple. 

Made up of beautiful shaped stones, three large stones stand naturally, a large flat stone is located below like a pedestal, a pointed stone is superimposed on top like a rooster, and the opposite island is smaller and shaped like a hen, such is Hon Trong Mai.

There is a story that these rocks represent a pair of husband and wife, who love each other passionately even when both have been transformed into birds. 

Above: Trong Mai Island

Sâm Son Church is not only a place of worship for parishioners, a place of peace for religious fishermen but also an important historical relic of Sam Son City. 

The Church was built in 1920, following French architecture style, in the middle of an open space with a large campus and many green trees, which brings the visitor a feeling of sacredness, purity and peace.

The Night Market is a tourist attraction, with a total area of ​​​​about 7,600 m2, with more than 200 stalls and two entertainment areas – an ideal destination for tourists who want to have fun and buy Sâm Son gifts.

Vo Market is a unique market on Sâm Son Beach. 

You should also try to get up early to go to this market at least once – not only to buy things but also to understand and feel the lives of the people here. 

Witness fishermen pulling their nets onto the wide beach, the market quickly forms for the fresh seafood. 

A very ordinary scene, very rustic, but also very different, and not found everywhere.

Red Pillar Market is a large shopping centre in Sâm Son. 

With a scale of more than 7,000 m2, the Market offers a wide variety of items, but mainly fresh seafood. 

You can also find and buy all kinds of Thanh specialties as souvenirs and gifts from your trip. 

Red Pillar Market is located right in the centre, near the beach where tourists play.

The amusement park is located on the main road of Sâm Son, so it is easy to find and convenient for visitors. 

Here, visitors are free to use recreational services, such as horseback riding, roller coasters, trams, right at the beach. 

Thrilling games attract the young.

FLC Sâm Son Beach and Golf Resort is currently the leading resort and entertainment in Vietnam. 

FLC Golf Resort is a popular destination for enthusiasts of this sport. 

This is an 18-hole golf course managed and constructed by the leading golf course management unit in the United States. 

In addition, FLC Sâm Son cultural and tourist complex is a leading resort with modern advanced facilities, indoor and outdoor entertainment areas, a four-season swimming pool, a villa area, a hotel area, a spa, and luxury restaurants.

It is classy and extravagant with 350 luxury rooms and the largest outdoor saltwater pool in Southeast Asia with a view overlooking the stunning Sâm Son Beach.

The Van Chai Resort has an area of ​​up to two hectares with unique architecture that mixes tradition and modernity. 

The Resort also has a beautiful natural space, very attractive to tourists. 

Located right on Sam Son beach and only 3 km from the city,

Van Chai Resort is very convenient for tourists to just relax.

And it is on the beach here at Sâm Son that I will end this portion of the tales of Swiss Miss, for the road ahead leads to Vinh, a place of pilgrimage beloved by Vietnamese and undiscovered by most foreigners.

A place that merits a blog post of its very own.

Above: Images of Vinh

The water is clear on the shore and the sand is soft with no rubbish to be seen anywhere.

So, let us wallow in the cool blue sea, listen to songs of the wave and the wind, and take a nap on the sunlight sandbanks and dream of sand castles.

I dream of women in itsy bitsy teeny weeny yellow polka dot bikinis and I smile.

I did not travel with Heidi in body, but for as long as these words endure I will have travelled forever in spirit.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / The Rough Guide to Vietnam / BBC, “Yemen War: 8 killed in air strike near Kital hospital“, 27 March 2019 / BBC, “Algeria army urges removal of President Abdelaziz Bouteflika“, 27 March 2019 / Graham Greene, The Quiet American / Euan McKurdy, CNN, “Grim search for survivors continues after floods kill 113 people in Indonesia“, 26 March 2019 / William Least Heat Moon, Blue Highways / Aritz Paria, AP News, “Spain: FBI offered data stolen in North Korea Embassy raid“, 27 March 2019 / Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance / Rick Steves, Travel as a Political Act / Louise Purwin Zobel, The Travel Writer’s Handbook

The way of the bull

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Monday 20 June 2022

It is a long weekly journey for a tall man.

Above: Eskişehir Otobüs Terminali (bus station)

Six hours on a cramped bus each way between Eskişehir (where I live) and Denizli (where I teach every Friday) and, for the most part, it feels like an endurance test that must be tolerated.

Above: Bridge over Porsuk River in Eskişehir, Turkey

Above: Denizli – The rooster is the symbol of the city

Nonetheless, the journey does have one compensation:

Scenery.

My spirit longs to drag my body off the bus and compel it to hike the hills and climb the crests of surrounding mountains that encircle the highways.

The journey to Denizli usually finds me distracting myself with books as the trip is made in the morning and early afternoon with daylight my constant travel companion.

The journey from Denizli, made between 6 pm and midnight, is spent with eyes cast outside the windows as sunset paints a magical silhouette that mere photographs cannot sufficiently capture.

I am reminded of the lower Laurentians where I was raised in Canada.

I am reminded of Switzerland where I resided in the decade before I moved to Türkiye for work.

My eyes seek in the Turkish silhouette the one commonality that the Laurentians and the Alps share.

In the distance I see what I had sought.

Cows.

My spirit is at peace.

A smile returns to my face.

How easy it is to forget that cows are animals…..

To Reinhard Pfurtscheller, the land he farmed high in the Alps was always a slice of Paradise.

He would wake up in a cabin more than 300 years old, cows already wandering the flower-speckled meadows, snow-capped peaks all around.

There is nothing more beautiful.“, Pfurtscheller says.

Above: Reinhard Pfurtscheller

Until that warm July afternoon when he watched medics on his pasture zipping shut a body bag.

As the helicopter took off with the victim, Pfurtschneller learned that a 45-year-old hiker from Germany had been brutally assaulted, sustaining grevious injuries to her chest and heart.

The farmer was well acquainted with her killers:

Bea, Flower, Raven, and his other cows.

Across the Alps, such attacks once were a shocking rarity.

No longer.

Amid the sweeping economic changes jeopardizing farmers’ future, the creatures that for decades have defined the region’s landscape and culture – bovine stars of tourism campaigns – have become liabilities.

Another hiker was killed a year after the German woman died in 2014 and another in 2017.

Statistics are not kept by Austrian, Swiss, Italian or French authorities, but media reports of incidents have become increasingly common.

Nowadays, signs warning tourists in English, French, German and Italian are ubiquitous:

Cross pastures at your own risk.

Hotels display brochures on how to stay safe.

Olympic skiers and famous actors help to raise awareness in TV spots and online videos, often stressing:

The mountain pasture is no petting zoo.

Yet this summer, with many Europeans yearning for the outdoors after two years of living with coronavirus restrictions, there are worries that the hiking season will result in even more attacks.

Since June 2020, at least nine attacks have been reported.

Some might think this isn’t serious, but do you know how terrifying a herd of cows charging at you is, how fast and agile they are?“, said Andreas Freisinger, an optician living near Wien (Vienna).

It is a rheotrical question.

Freisinger (50) indeed knows.

An agitated herd came at him and his family while they were day-tripping on one of the highest mountains in the eastern Alps.

They escaped only because they let their dog off the leash and the cows pursued Junior as he fled into the forest.

When Freisinger went looking for the St. Bernard mix, he heard a rapid scuffing just before a lone cow knocked him to the ground.

I was fighting for my life.“, he recounted, describing how he aimed his kicks for the cow’s udders.

Even so, the animal cracked one of his shoulder blades, an orbital cavity, and several vertebrae and ribs, plus flattened his lungs and diaphragm with the weight of a grand piano.

Above: Andreas Freisinger

The scenery that annually draws 120 million tourists would not exist if not for cows grazing.

It has been cultivated over seven centuries of farmers driving their herds to mountainside meadows in the summer.

The animals’ hoofs firm the soil, their tongues gently groom the grasses and wildflowers.

In the process, they continuously sculpt verdant pastures.

All that seemed at stake when a court in the western state of Tyrol found Pfurtscheller solely responsible for the German woman’s death and ordered him to pay more than $210,000 in damages to her widower and son plus monthly restitution totalling $1,850.

Above: Flag of the Austrian state of Tyrol

The 2019 decision shocked farmers and not just in Neustift im Stubaital, a village of fewer than 5,000 inhabitants.

Above: Neustift im Stubaital, Tyrol, Österreich (Austria)

As foreclosure on Pfurtscheller’s home and farm loomed, some farmers contemplated banning hikers from their land, a move that would cut off access to the Alps.

Others threatened to stop taking their cows into the Alps altogether, a move that would allow nature to cut back in.

Forests would soon begin to take over.

This isn’t just about the farmers.

It is the wish of all Europeans to have the mountains open for hiking.”, warned Josef Lanzinger, head of the Alpine farming association in Tyrol.

This would mean the end of Alpine pastures.“, said Georg Strasser, president of Bauernbund, the national farmers association that is one of Austria’s most powerful lobbies.

Failing dairy and meat prices had already tightened the screws on farmers, Strasser told reporters after the Pfurtscheller ruling, and the spectre of lawsuits would prove too much to bear.

Governments quickly acted to keep cows on the pastures.

State governors, federal ministers, even the then-Austrian Chancellor Sebastian Kurz spoke out in support of Pfurtscheller, a man of 62 who has been farming since he was ten.

Last year, federal law was changed to block similar litigation.

New insurance policies now cover every farmer whose animals go wild.

Above: Sebastian Kurz (Chancellor: 2017 – 2019 / 2020 – 2021)

In May 2020, the Austrian Supreme Court of Justice upheld a revised lower court verdict that held the hiker equally culpable for the tragedy, cut her survivors’ compensation to $92,400 and halved their monthly restitution payments.

The verdict was a real blow, said Markus Hirn, the lawyer for her family.

But given how much political support the farmer had, it still feels like a win.

Above: Palace of Justice, Wien (Vienna), Österreich (Austria)

Farmers feel otherwise because of the pressures they are facing.

The steep Alpine terrain limits the amount of feed that can be grown and the number of cows that can be held.

On average, a farmer in Tyrol owns 12 cows, but the more dramatic the landscape gets, the lower that figure goes.

Hikers with dogs, as well as bike riders, add to cows’ stress.

(The casualty on Pfurtscheller’s farm was accompanied by a terrier.)

To the cows, dogs are direct descendants of wolves.”, Pfurtscheller said.

If you thought your child is in danger, wouldn’t you defend it?

Pfurtscheller has posted new signs on his land warning hikers to keep dogs away from mother cows at all times.

He fences his pastures.

People want the pastures, they want cows, and farmers in Lederhosen.“, Pfurtscheller said.

But nobody sees how much effort it is.

Nature teaches beasts to know their friends.

William Shakespeare, Coriolanus, Act 2, Scene 1

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

People watch with amazement a TV programme on the social lives of elephants – their family groupings, affections and mutual help, their sense of fun – without realizing that our own domestic cattle develop very similar lifestyles if given the opportunity.

Joanne Bower, The Farm and Food Society

Cows have far more awareness and know-how than they have ever been given credit for.

Watching cows and calves playing, grooming one another or being assertive, takes on a whole new dimension if you know that those taking part are siblings, cousins, friends or sworn enemies.

If you know animals as individuals you notice how often older brothers are kind to younger brothers, how sisters seek or avoid each other’s company, and which families always get together at night to sleep and which never do so.

Cows are as varied as people.

They can be highly intelligent or slow to understand.

Friendly, considerable, aggressive, docile, inventive, dull, proud or shy.

All these characteristics are present in a herd.

Cattle (Bos taurus) are large domesticated bovines.

They are most widespread species of the genus Bos.

Adult females are referred to as cows and adult males are referred to as bulls.

Cattle are commonly raised as livestock for meat (beef or veal), for milk, and for hides, which are used to make leather.

They are used as riding animals and draft animals (oxen or bullocks, which pull carts, plows and other implements).

Another product of cattle is their dung, which can be used to create manure or fuel.

Above: Cow dung – looks and smells: not pretty, but pretty useful

In some regions, such as parts of India, cattle have significant religious significance.

Cattle, mostly small breeds such as the Miniature Zebu, are also kept as pets.

Above: A Miniature Zebu cow

Different types of cattle are common to different geographic areas.

Taurine cattle are found primarily in Europe and temperate areas of Asia, the Americas and Australia. 

Zebus (also called indicine cattle) are found primarily in India and tropical areas of Asia, America, and Australia. 

Sanga cattle are found primarily in sub-Saharan Africa.

These types (which are sometimes classified as separate species or subspecies) are further divided into over 1,000 recognized breeds.

Around 10,500 years ago, taurine cattle were domesticated from as few as 80 wild aurochs progenitors in central Anatolia, the Levant and Western Iran.

A separate domestication event occurred in the Indian subcontinent, which gave rise to zebu.

According to the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), there are approximately 1.5 billion cattle in the world as of 2018.

Cattle are the main source of greenhouse gas emissions from livestock, and are responsible for around 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions.

In 2009, cattle became one of the first livestock animals to have a fully mapped genome.

Above: Global bovine distribution

I am Cow, hear me moo
I weigh twice as much as you
And I look good on the barbecue
Yogurt, curd, cream cheese and butter’s
Made from liquid from my udders
I am Cow, I am Cow, Hear me moo (moo)

I am Cow, eating grass
Methane gas comes out my ass
And out my muzzle when I belch
Oh, the ozone layer is thinner
From the outcome of my dinner
I am Cow, I am Cow, I’ve got gas

I am Cow, here I stand
Far and wide upon this land
And I am living everywhere
From BC to Newfoundland
You can squeeze my teats by hand
I am Cow, I am Cow, I am Cow
I am Cow, I am Cow, I am Cow!

Aggression in cattle is usually a result of fear, learning and hormonal state, however, many other factors can contribute to aggressive behaviors in cattle.

Temperament traits are known to be traits in which explain the behaviour and actions of an animal and can be described in the traits responsible for how easily an animal can be approached, handled, milked or trained.

Temperament can also be defined as how an animal carries out maternal or other behaviours while subjected to routine management.

These traits have the ability to change as the animal ages or as the environment in which the animal lives changes over time, however, it is proven that regardless of age and environmental conditions, some individuals remain more aggressive than others. 

Aggression in cattle can arise from both genetic and environmental factors.

Aggression between cows is worse than that between bulls.

Bulls with horns will bunt (push or strike with the horns) in which can cause more damage overall.

Most aggressive behaviours of cows include kicking, crushing and/or blunting.

There are many types of aggression that are seen in animals, particularly cattle, including maternal, feed, comfort influencing, pain induced, and stress induced aggressiveness.

There are many components to maternal behavior that are seen in cattle, including behavior that allows proper bonding between mother and baby, nursing behavior, attentiveness and how mother responds to offspring.

This maternal behavior is often seen in cattle during lactation as a prey species, this triggers the maternal instinct to protect their young from any threat and may use violent aggressive behaviors as a defense mechanism.

During lactation in prey species, including cattle, a reduction in fear responsiveness to novel and potentially dangerous situations facilitates the expression of defensive aggression in protection of the young.

It has also been proven however that aggression is not only performed in the protection of the offspring, but it can be directed to the offspring, in which could be directly related to fear.

This is commonly seen in cattle due to high stocking densities which could potentially decrease the amount of space each cow has, as well as limit their ability to have access to feed, even impacting the ruminal environment. 

It has been proven that supplying feed and water to cattle that are housed together may be heavily associated with feed aggression and aggressive actions towards others cows and within loose-housed cattle, feeding places are noted to have the highest amount of aggressive behaviours.

These are aggressive behaviors associated with lack of comfort, inadequate lying space or time in which the physical environment fails to provide the animal.

Cow comfort plays an important role in the well being as well as maximizing production as an industry.

Within many intensive production systems, it is very common to see limited space for resting, which can be associated with negative behaviors as not providing the appropriate space for the animal reduces resting and lying behavior, increasing irritability and the potential to act in aggressive behaviours.

Although not all production systems provide limited space and time for lying, uncomfortable stalls are also known to be a major problem when it comes to lying behaviour in cattle.

Decreasing the quality of resting area for cows will decrease resting time, and increase the likelihood of stress, abnormal and aggressive behaviours as the deprivation of lying/resting behaviors is proven to affect responses within the hypothalamic pituitary adrenal axis which is associated with chronic stress in the animal.

Not only lying time and space act as important regulators of comfort induced aggression, but other environmental factors may play a role in the comfort of an animal. 

Temperature has been shown to be a factor that influences the behavioral interactions between cattle.

It has been found that, by providing cows with the proper cooling environment or as heat decreases aggressive interactions in cattle will also decrease.

Cattle with access to more shade are known to show reduced physiological and behavioural responses to heat.

There are behaviours caused by some sort of stressor that can lead to aggressive advances towards themselves or other individuals.

A stressor is an object or event that can cause a real or perceived threat internally or externally to an animal. 

Stressors are common in farm animals such as dairy cows as they live in a complex environment where there are many stressors including:

  • novel objects (new objects such as handlers, food, or group mates)
  • social stimuli (different environments, new individuals)
  • restraint (physical restraint, moved to cubicles, transported).

Dairy cows specifically have been known to be very sensitive to new, unfamiliar events or objects such as being around an unfamiliar person, or presented with a novel food item.

Stress has extreme negative impacts on growth and reproduction in cattle, as the pituitary-adrenal system is very sensitive to different environmental stressors such as:

  • inadequate space
  • feed
  • poor quality housing
  • new objects or individuals
  • new living/housing system.

Pain is defined as an effective state and can only be truly measured indirectly in both humans and animals, that may present some challenges in decision making regarding pain management.

Many things can result in pain including: 

  • dehorning

  • tail docking

  • handling

  • castrating

  • mastitis

Above: A cow suffering mastitis

  • lameness

  • confinement

  • transportation

Lameness is a common issue seen in cattle, and may occur in facilities with poor management and housing systems, and inadequate handling skills.

It is because of this issue that many cows find themselves spending a lot of time lying down, instead of engaging in both aggressive (head butting, vocalizing, pushing) and non aggressive behaviors (licking, walking) due to the pain.

Techniques such as low stress handling (LSH) can be used as it provides silence, adequate restraint methods can help minimize stress levels in the animals.

Flight zones should be considered when handling or moving cattle, as they have a blind spot and may get spooked easily if unaware if there is an individual around.

Providing environments for cows in which minimize any environmental stressor can not only improve the wellbeing and welfare of the animal, but can also reduce aggressive behaviours.

Regular examinations (physical and physiological) should be done to determine the condition of the cow, which could show signs of cuts, or lesions, as well as the secretion or hormones inside the body such as cortisol.

Cortisol can be measured through blood sampling, urine, saliva or heart rate to indicate stress level of animal.

Assessing for lameness, as well as giving proper treatment depending on severity / location can include antibiotics.

Using proper treatment / prevention for pain when lameness is examined, as well as procedures such as tail docking, dehorning, castrating, mastitis lameness, etc.

The primary treatment in lame cows is corrective hoof pairing, which provides draining of abscesses, fixing any structural issue with the hoof, and reducing weight baring problems, however if lesions are seen in cattle, antibiotics or other measures may have to be taken to reduce further infection/irritation.

Setting breeding goals can be a potential way to select for desired temperamental traits, further decreasing the risk of raising aggressive cattle.

Before this method of selection can be entirely accurate and safe, however, some tests should be done, such as behaviour and temperament tests.

It is perhaps easier to assume that animals have no feelings.

They can then be used as generators of profit without any regard being given to their actual needs, as satisfying those needs is allegedly not worth the cost.

Happy animals grow faster, stay healthier, cause fewer problems and provide more profit in the long run, when all factors, such as the effects on human health and the environment are taken into account.

W.H. Hudson said:

Bear in mind that animals are only unhappy when made so by man.

Above: William Henry Hudson (1841 – 1922)

Bovine needs are in many respects the same as human ones:

  • freedom from stress
  • adequate shelter
  • pure food and water
  • liberty to exercise, to wander about, to go for a walk, or just to stand and stare.

Every animal needs congenial company of its own species.

A cow needs to be allowed to enjoy its rights in its own way, in its own time, and not according to a human timetable.

The number of different ways a calf may be treated is no fewer than the number of ways a child may be treated.

Most people believe that children need a stable environment with warmth and comfort, good clothes and shoes, food and drink, interesting diversions, friends of their own age and adults to guide and, above all, to love them.

We do not expect a well-balanced adult to emerge from a neglected, ill-nourished, lonely, frightened child.

The same logic should apply to farm animals.

The quality of the food and the overall environment of any living creature will determine its potential in later life.

The behaviour and health of all animals is affected by the quality of food they receive and the stress to which they are subjected.

If animals feel totally relaxed and safe and know themselves to be in a familiar environment, surroundings by family and friends, they will often sleep lying flat out.

They flop in a variety of often amusing positions and look anything from idyllically comfortable to dead.

Sleep may sometimes last only a very short time, but it is important and that they should not be disturbed.

It might sound eccentric to suggest that the reason an animal is bad-tempered is because it is short of sleep, but as sleeping is vital, deprivation will obviously do harm.

Animals can make up for deficiencies in their diet by foraging and finding what they need.

It is up to us to provide conditions in which they can be comfortable and happy enough to sleep well.

Twenty things you ought to know about cows:

  1. Cows love each other…..at least some do.
  2. Cows babysit for each other.
  3. Cows nurse grudges.
  4. Cows invent games.
  5. Cows take umbrage.
  6. Cows can communicate with people.
  7. Cows can solve problems.
  8. Cows make friends for life.
  9. Cows have food preferences.
  10. Cows can be unpredictable.
  11. Cows can be good company.
  12. Cows can be boring.
  13. Cows can be intelligent.
  14. Cows love music.
  15. Cows can be gentle.
  16. Cows can be aggressive.
  17. Cows can be dependable.
  18. Cows can be forgiving.
  19. Cows can be obstinate.
  20. Cows can be wise.

Cows are individuals and possess feelings, just like humans.

Thus, they can be as unpredictable as humans.

Let us consider Switzerland.

More than anything, it is the magnificent ranges enclosing the country to the south that define it.

The main draw for visitors, they have also played a profound role in forming Switzerland’s national identity.

They are the favourite recreation grounds for summer hiking and winter skiing.

Within this rugged environment, community spirit is perhaps stronger than anywhere else in Europe.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Switzerland is heaven for outdoor activities of all kinds.

You don’t have to be a mountaineer to enjoy an active holiday in the Alps.

Switzerland has some of Europe’s finest walking terrain with enough variety to suit every taste.

In the northwest the wooded Jura hills provide long views across the lowlands to Alpine giants.

Above: Jura Mountains

The Bernese Alps harbour a glacial heartland but also feature gentle valleys, pastoral ridges and charming hamlets with well-marked trails weaving through.

Above: Bernese Alps

On the south side of the Rhône Valley, the Pennine Alps are burdened with snow and glaciers, yet walkers’ paths lead along their moraines.

Above: Pennine Alps

In the mountains of Ticino, which are almost completely ice-free in summer, you will find trails galore linking modest, lake-jewelled peaks.

Above: Ticino mountains

In tourist areas walkers can use chairlifts, gondolas and cable cars in summer and autumn to reach high trails.

Paths are well-maintained and clearly marked with regular yellow signposts displaying the names of major landmark destinations, often with an estimate of the time it takes to walk to them. Most signposts also have a white plate giving the name and altitude of the spot you are standing on.

A Wanderweg / Chemin de randonnée pédestre / Sentiero escursionistico remains either in the valley or travels the hillsides at a modest attitude, is sometimes surfaced and will be graded at a relatively gentle angle.

Yellow diamonds or pointers show the continuation of the route.

No one should venture into the outdoors without consulting a good map.

In Switzerland, local shops and tourist offices usually stock a selection, including walkers’ maps with routes and times.

Always check the weather forecast before setting out.

Do not venture to high altitudes if bad weather is expected.

It is sensible to take a fleece and waterproof wherever you go.

On more ambitious outings it is essential with wind- and waterproof clothing and good footwear.

Frequent official avalanche bulletins are published online and publicized widely in mountain areas.

I have been caught outdoors overnight in the mountains.

Above: Logo of Swiss Air Rescue – (German: Schweizerische Rettungsflugwacht, French: Garde aérienne suisse de sauvetageRega)

It seems to me that I have heard of at least one major avalanche in the Alps for each year I lived in Switzerland.

I had heard of at least one fatality on the trails of Switzerland every year.

As a whole, Switzerland has 1.59 million cows, or one for every five people.

So there are victims of cattle aggression in Switzerland.

Two young hikers were airlifted to hospital with moderate injuries after being knocked to the ground by a cow in the canton of Nidwalden on Saturday, 24 August 2019 – the second such incident in the area in a month.

Above: Flag of Canton Nidwalden

The hikers suffered bruises and shock in the incident involving a herd of cattle and their calves on the Bannalp in the commune of Wolfenschiessen said in a statement.

Above: Wolfenschiessen, Nidenwalden, Switzerland

The walking track that the hikers was temporarily closed.

In addition, the herd of cows involved in the attack has been moved away from its high summer pasture and back down to the valley – a month earlier than planned.

The incident was the second attack by cows on the Bannalp track in two months.

In July 2019, a dog was trampled to death and the animal’s owner was injured.

Dogs were subsequently banned on the walking track for the duration of the summer.

Above: Bannalp

One local farmer told regional daily Luzerner Zeitung that the cause of the attacks lies in the difference between cattle and dairy cows.

Cattle behave differently to milk cows.

They are quicker to feel themselves under attack and to want to protect their calves, while they are also less used to humans because they are not milked.”, explained Wendel Odermatt.

He said it often only required an aggressive animal to incite an attack.

Herd instinct and the instinct to play also played a role, he added.

In the past, there had been less awareness of this problem because dairy cows dominated in pastures, he said.

Hikers are advised to take care with such herds.

Above: Wendel Odermatt

In the summer months hikers strolling through meadows in Switzerland often underestimate the danger posed by cows.

Far from being docile creatures, cows can be aggressive, especially if they are protecting their calves.

Fatal attacks are, thankfully, rare.

In 2015, a German tourist was killed by cattle when out walking in the Laax area of Graubünden, prompting the authorities to put up warning signs.

Above: Laax, Graubünden, Switzerland

To help avoid further injury, Blick newspaper compiled a list of helpful tips on crossing meadows safely.

The Swiss advisory service for agricultural accident prevention BUL recommends walkers avoid:

–       wearing very bright or garishly coloured clothing

–       making loud noises or high-pitched sounds

–       taking a dog with you, as dogs are seen as a threat

–       looking the cow in the eye and sustained eye contact.

The BUL also offers advice to hikers who find themselves at risk of attack:

–       Back away slowly but do not avert your gaze.

–       Use a walking stick (Alpenstock) to defend yourself if attacked.

–       If you have a dog, let it off the lead, so the cow will concentrate on the dog instead of you.

Above: Jacques Balmat (1762 – 1834) carrying an axe and an alpenstock

The advisory service says the main piece of advice is to always keep quiet when crossing meadows and to observe the behaviour of the herd.

You should also keep as far away from the animals as possible.

Consider Türkiye.

Above: Flag of Turkey

Trails in Türkiye beckon.

Head for the hills on a wonderful waymarked hiking trail, like the Lycian Way or St. Paul Trail.

The exhilarating Lycian Way long-distance trail weaves its way through the westernmost reaches of the Toros.

Inaugurated in 2000, the Lycian Way runs parallel to much of the Turquoise Coast,

In theory, it takes five weeks to complete the entire trail, but most walkers sample it in stages rather than tackling it all in one go.

Starting above Ölüdeniz and ending just shy of Antalya, the trail takes in choice mountain landscapes and seascapes en route, with many optional detours to Roman or Byzantine ruins not found in conventional guidebooks.

Some of the wildest sections lie between Kabak and Gavuragli, above the Yediburun coast, and between Kas and Üçagiz.

Elevation en route varies from sea level to 1,800 metres on the saddle of Tahtali Dağ.

The best walking seasons along most of the way are October (pleasantly warm) or April / May (when water is plentiful and the days long), except in the highest mountain stages.

Summer is out of the question.

Above: The Lycian Way

The route itself ranges from rough boulder-strewn trails to brief stretches of asphalt, by way of forested paths, cobbled or revetted Byzantine/Ottoman roads and tractor tracks.

While the entire distance is marked with the conventional red-and-white blazes used in Europe, plus occasional metal signs giving distances to the next key destination, waymarks can be absent when you need them most.

Continual bulldozing of existing footpath stretches into jeep tracks is such a major problem that the notional initial section between Hisarönü and Kirme has now ceased to exist, with most hikers starting at Faralya, while periodic maintenance (and where necessary rerouting) barely keeps pace with fast-growing scrub and rockfalls.

Above: Map of the Lycian Way

The more challenging St. Paul Trail crosses the range from south to north.

Opened in 2004, the rugged St. Paul Trail offers over 500 km of trekking in the spectacularly beautiful Toros Mountains.

Waymarked to international standards, with red and white flashes on rocks and trees, it allows relatively easy explorations of a remote, unspoiled area of Turkey.

Above: Saint Paul Trail

The twin starting points of the route are the ancient cities of Perge and Aspendos on the Mediterranean coastal plain.

It was from Perge that St. Paul set out in 46 CE, on his first proselytizing journey.

Above: Perge

His destination was the Roman colonial town of Antioch ad Pisidiam, where he first preached Christ’s message to non-Jews.

Above: Antiocheia in Psidia

En route from the Mediterranean to the Anatolian plateau, the Trail crosses tumbling mountain rivers, climbs passes between limestone peaks that soar to almost 3,000 metres, dips into deeply scored canyons.

It weaves beneath shady pine and cedar forest.

It even includes a boat ride across the glimmering expanse of Lake Egirdir.

Hikers interested in archaeology can discover remote, little-known Roman sites and walk along original sections of Roman road.

The irrevocably active can raft the Köprülü River, scale 2,635-metre Mount Davraz and 2799-metre Mount Barla.

Both trails are marked with red-and-white paint flashes and take in some stunning mountain and gorge scenery, remote ancient sites and timeless villages.

Other trails have also sprung up.

These include:

  • the Evliya Çelebi Way in northwest Turkey, a trail suitable for horse riders and walkers

Above: Map of the Evliya Çelebi Way

The Evliya Çelebi Way is a cultural trekking route celebrating the early stages of the journey made in 1671 to Mecca by the eponymous Ottoman Turkish gentleman-adventurer, Evliya Çelebi.

Evliya travelled the Ottoman Empire and beyond for some 40 years, leaving a ten-volume account of his journeys.

Above: Statue of Evliya Çelebi, Eger Castle, Hungary

The Evliya Çelebi Way is a 600+ km-long trail for horse riders, hikers and bikers.

It begins at Hersek (a village in Altinova district), on the south coast of the Izmit Gulf, and traces Evliya’s pilgrimage journey via Iznik, Yenisehir, Inegöl, Kütahya (his ancestral home), Afyonkarahisar, Usak, Eski Gediz and Simav.

(Heavy urbanisation prevents the Way entering either Istanbul, from where he set out in 1671, or Bursa.)

The Evliya Çelebi Way was inaugurated in autumn 2009 by a group of Turkish and British riders and academics.

A guidebook to the route, both English and Turkish, includes practical information for the modern traveller, day-by-day route descriptions, maps, photos, historical and architectural background, notes on the environment, and summaries of Evliya’s description of places he saw when he travelled in the region, paired with what the visitor may see today.

  • Abraham’s Path, linking Yuvacali village with Harran and the Syrian border

Above: Map of the Abraham Path

The small village of Yuvacali, set amid bleached fields of wheat, lentils and chickpeas, huddles at the foot of a prominent settlement mound as ancient as nearby Göbekli Tepe, not far from the market town of Hilvan.

Here you can stay in a Kurdish village home and try your hand at milking sheep and baking unleavened village bread.

You will also be introduced to Kurdish history and culture, taken on a one-hour 30-minute walk around the village and its ruins.

Perhaps walk a part of the waymarked Abraham Path, which starts here.

Above: Yuvacali

The Abraham Path is a cultural route believed to have been the path of the patriarch Abraham’s ancient journey across the Ancient Near East.

The path was established in 2007 as a pilgrims’ way to mimic the historical believed route of Abraham, between his birthplace of Ur of the Chaldees, believed by some to have been Urfa, Turkey, and his final destination of the desert of Negev.

Above: Sanliurfa, Turkey

Above: Ein Avdat, Negev Desert, Israel

Abraham/Ibrahim is believed to have lived in the Bronze Age.

He travelled with family and flocks throughout the Fertile Crescent, the Arabian peninsula, and the Nile Valley.

His story has inspired myriad communities, including Kurds, Muslims, Jews, Christians, Alevi, Bedouin, Fellahin, Samaritans, and countless across the world.

The Abraham Path Initiative aims to build on this narrative of shared connection with its rich tradition of walking and hospitality to strangers.

The main historical Abrahamic sites on the current path are: 

  • Urfa, the birthplace of Abraham according to some Muslim traditions 
  • Harran, according to the Hebrew Bible, a town Abraham lived in, and from which he received the call to start the main part of his journey 

Above: Harran, Türkiye

  • Jerusalem, the scene for the binding of Isaac upon the Foundation Stone, according to the Hebrew Bible

Above: Jerusalem, Israel

  • Hebron, the location of the tomb of Abraham and his wife Sarah, according to Jewish, Christian and Muslim traditions.

Above: Hebron, Israel

  • the Carian Way on the southwest Aegean coast

Above: Map of the Carian Trail

The Carian Trail (Karia Yolu) is an 820 km long-distance footpath exploring the southwestern corner of Turkey through the modern provinces of Mugla and Aydin.

The trail is officially opened in 2013 and winds through some of the lesser known regions of Turkey.

The trail is named after the Carian civilization, indigenous people of Asia Minor.

Above: Inscription in Carian script

It passes through an area with many ancient ruins.

Stone paved caravan roads and mule paths connect villages from the coast to a mountainous hinterland.

There are pine forest covered mountain slopes, olive terraces and almond groves which are an important part of the region’s economy.

The trail is signed and waymarked with red and white stripes (Grande Randonée convention) allowing both independent and group travellers from inside and outside of Turkey to hike and enjoy the scenic beauty and cultural treasures of Caria.

Above: Carian Trail, Muğla

The 820 km long trail has four main sections: 

  • Bozburun
  • Datça Peninsula
  • Gulf of Gökova
  • Carian Hinterland
  • with an additional section that encompass Mugla and surrounding regions. 

All of the trail has been divided into 46 stages.

It also includes a smaller 11 km long section called Dalyan, which is isolated from other sections. Some sections and stages can be cycled.

Above: Carian Trail signage

Bozburun Peninsula section is 141.2 km long and is the official starting point of the Trail. 

It starts from Içmeler and follows Turunç, Kumlubük, Bayır, Taşlıca, Söğüt, Bozburun, Selimiye, Orhaniye, and ends in Hisarönü.

Above: Bozburun

Datça Peninsula is 240.7 km of length.

The section starts from the old town of Datça, and follows Hızırşah, Domuzçukuru, Mesudiye, Palamutbükü, Knidos, Karaköy, Kızlan, Emecik, Balıkaşıran, Akçapınar, and ends in Akyaka.

The part from Balıkaşıran to Akyaka can also be biked.

Above: Datça

The Ceramic Gulf (Gulf of Gökova) is a section with 139.2 km of trail.

The section starts from Akyaka and heads west following Turnalı, Sarnıç, Akbük, Alatepe, Ören (Ceramos), Türkevleri, Bozalan, Mazı, Çiftlik, Kızılağaç and arrives in Bodrum (Halicarnassos) finishing in ancient city of Pedasa.

Above: Akyaka

Carian Hinterland section is 174.2 km long and starts from Bozalan heading north and follows Fesleğen, Karacahisar, Milas (Mylasa), Kargıcak, Labraunda, Sarıkaya, Çomakdağ, Kayabükü, Sakarkaya and arrives at the shores of Lake Bafa.

Heading up the Latmos (Mentese mountains) the Trail continues to the summit (1,350 m), Bağarcık, Kullar, Yahşiler, Tekeler, and finishes in Karpuzlu (Alinda) which is the official finish of the Carian Trail.

Above: Karpuzlu

Mugla Environs section consists of 108.5 km of trail.

Heading north to Akyaka, the section passes through Kuyucak, Karabaglar, Mugla, Degirmendere Kanyonu, Ekizce, Bayir, Belen Kahvesi and finishes in the ancient city of Stratonikeia.

It is possible to bike most of this section.

Above: Theatre, Stratonikeia

Dalyan is the smallest section of the trail with only 11 km of length.

The route starts from Dalyan and passes by Kaunos, a historically important sea port with a history that can be tracked back to the 10th century BCE.

The Trail ends in Ekincik Bay.

Above: Dalyan

  • the Phrygian Way

Above: Phrygian Trail map

The Phrygian Trekking Route is one of the longest hiking trails in Türkiye.

Planned with great care for the comfort and enjoyment of hikers, the route passes through the renowned Phrygian Valleys where hikers may visit the ruins of ancient civilisations and enjoy the natural beauty of the region.

The trekking route is 506 kilometres long, and is marked in accordance with international standards.

The route has three starting points and the trails meet at the Yazilikaya (Inscribed Rock), which was a focal point for the Phrygians.

Hikers may start the route at the following points:

1) Gordium (Polatli, Ankara)

Above: Gordion

2) Seydiler (Afyonkarahisar)

Above: Seyydis

3) Yenice Farm Ciftligi (Ahmetoglu Village, Kutahya).

Above: Ahmetoglu

The trail starts at Gordium, the political capital of the Phrygians, then follows the valley of the Porsuk (ancient Tembris) River, passes through Sivrihisar (ancient Spaleia), and arrives at Pessinous (Ballikaya), another important Phrygian settlement.

Above: Sivrihisar

Above: Pessinous

The Trail then enters the valley of the Sakarya (ancient Sangarius) River, where you enter a completely different world.

After the Sakarya Valley, the Trail enters the region known as Mountainous Phrygia.

The Trail then reaches the Yazilikaya, the site of the Midas monument which formed the cult centre of the Phrygians.

Above: Yazilikaya

Here the trail splits into two.

One branch leads to Findikli Village passing through the Asmainler, Zahran, and Inli Valleys, once home to Phrygian settlements.

Above: Findikli

This branch terminates at Yenice Farm on the highway between Kutahya and Eskişehir.

Above: Yenice Farm

The other branch passes through Saricaova, a picturesque Circassian village, and Döğer, town in Afyonkarahisar.

Above: Sancaova, Afyonkarahisar Province

Above: Döğer

The Trail then takes you through Ayazini Town before coming to an end at Seydiler, on the highway between Afyonkarahisar and Ankara.

Hikers who complete these trails will treasure the memory forever.

Above: Byzantine Church, Ayazini

The alpine Kaçkar Dağlari, paralleling the Black Sea, are the most rewarding mountains in Turkey for trekking.

Above: Kaçkar Daği

Also noteworthy are the limestone Toros (Taurus) ranges, especially the lofty Aladağlar mountains south of Cappadocia.

Above: Demirkazik Crest of Aladağ Mountain

Türkiye’s wild mountain ranges are a treat for experienced hikers prepared to carry their own tents and food and cope with few facilities.

The lack of decent maps maps makes mountain exploration a real adventure, but the unspoiled countryside, the hospitality of rural Turks, the fascination of yaylas (summer pastures), and the friendliness of other mountaineers more than compensate.

Above: The Black Sea’s mountain pastures – Türkiye’s very own Switzerland

Turkish trails pass through pastures.

Pastures provide fodder for flocks of sheep and herds of cattle.

The cattle number estimate for 2019 was 15.8 million head.

Chances are a hiker in Türkiye will encounter a cow.

Hopefully, without incident.

In the two nations wherein I am classified as a resident, there remain many trails I long to explore.

My attitude to nature, despite my not being a vegetarian, tends to be one of compassion and cooperation rather than confrontation and conflict.

I would rather be a Wordsworth than a wilderness warrior.

Above: William Wordsworth (1770 – 1850)

William Wordsworth is estimated to have walked a distance of over 175,000 English miles in the course of his life, a life of unclouded happiness.

Wordsworth made walking central to his life and art to a degree almost unparalleled before or since.

He went walking almost every day of his adult life.

Walking was both how he encountered the world and how he composed his poetry.

For Wordsworth, walking was not merely a mode of travelling, but of being.

A walk in the country is the equivalent of going to church, a tour through Westmoreland is as good as a pilgrimage to Jerusalem.

Aldous Huxley

Above: Aldous Huxley (1894 – 1963)

But not all men view the cow as one of God’s creatures.

Not all men avoid the potential aggression of cattle.

Some seek to provoke a beast to rage.

Above: Spanish bullfight underway in the Plaza de Toros Las Ventas in Madrid, 9 October 2005

Bullfighting is a physical contest that involves a bullfighter and animals attempting to subdue, immobilize, or kill a bull, usually according to a set of rules, guidelines, or cultural expectations.

There are several variations, including some forms which involve dancing around or leaping over a cow or bull or attempting to grasp an object tied to the animal’s horns.

The best-known form of bullfighting is Spanish-style bullfighting, practiced in Spain, Portugal, southern France, Mexico, Colombia, Ecuador, Venezuela and Peru.

The Spanish fighting bull is deliberately bred for its aggression and physique, and is raised free range with little human contact.

Above: Bullfight, Plaza de toros de La Malagueta, Málaga, Spain, 15 August 2018

The practice of bullfighting is controversial because of a range of concerns, including animal welfare, funding, and religion.

While some forms are considered a blood sport, in some countries, for example, Spain, it is defined as an art form or cultural event, and local regulations define it as a cultural event or heritage. 

Bullfighting is illegal in most countries, but remains legal in most areas of Spain and Portugal, as well as in some Hispanic American countries and some parts of southern France.

Above: Bullfight, Arles, France, 7 February 2005

Bullfighting traces its roots to prehistoric bull worship and sacrifice in Mesopotamia and the Mediterranean region.

The first recorded bullfight may be the Epic of Gilgamesh, which describes a scene in which Gilgamesh and Enkidu fought and killed the Bull of Heaven:

The Bull seemed indestructible, for hours they fought, till Gilgamesh dancing in front of the Bull, lured it with his tunic and bright weapons, and Enkidu thrust his sword, deep into the Bull’s neck, and killed it.”

Bull leaping was portrayed in Crete and myths related to bulls throughout Greece.

Above: Bull leaping fresco, Knossos, Crete

Bullfighting and the killing of the sacred bull was commonly practiced in ancient Iran and connected to the pre-Zoroastrian god Mithra.

Above: Relief of Mithra, Taq-e Bustan, Iran

The cosmic connotations of the ancient Iranian practice are reflected in Zoroaster’s Gathas and the Avesta.

Above: Depiction of Zoroaster

The killing of the sacred bull (tauroctony) is the essential central iconic act of Mithras, which was commemorated in the mithraeum (temple of Mithras) wherever Roman soldiers were stationed.

The oldest representation of what seems to be a man facing a bull is on the Celtiberian tombstone from Clunia (an ancient Roman city) and the cave painting El toro de hachos, both found in Spain.

Bullfighting is often linked to Rome, where many human-versus-animal events were held as competition and entertainment, the Venationes.

These hunting games spread to Africa, Asia and Europe during Roman times.

Above: Mithras killing a bull

There are also theories that it was introduced into Hispania by the Emperor Claudius as a substitute for gladiators, when he instituted a short-lived ban on gladiatorial combat.

Above: Bust of Claudius (10 BCE – 54 CE)

The latter theory was supported by Robert Graves.

Above: Robert Graves (1895 – 1985)

Spanish colonists took the practice of breeding cattle and bullfighting to the American colonies, the Pacific and Asia.

In the 19th century, areas of southern and southwestern France adopted bullfighting, developing their distinctive form.

Above: The Roman amphitheater at Arles being fitted for a corrida

Religious festivities and royal weddings were celebrated by fights in the local plaza, where noblemen would ride competing for royal favor, and the populace enjoyed the excitement.

In the Middle Ages across Europe, knights would joust in competitions on horseback.

Above: Jousting

In Spain, they began to fight bulls.

In medieval Spain bullfighting was considered a noble sport and reserved for the rich, who could afford to supply and train their animals.

The bull was released into a closed arena where a single fighter on horseback was armed with a lance.

Above: Bull monument, Ronda, Spain

This spectacle was said to be enjoyed by Charlemagne, Alfonso X “the Wise“, and the Almohad caliphs (1121 – 1269), among others.

Above: Bust of Charlemagne (747 – 814)





Above: Portrait of Alfonso X (1221 – 1284)

Above: Almohad Empire at its greatest extent

The greatest Spanish performer of this art is said to have been the knight El Cid (1043 – 1099).

Above: El Cid, Francisco de Goya, 1816

According to a chronicle of the time, in 1128:

When Alfonso VII of Léon and Castile married Berengaria of Barcelonadaughter of Ramon Berenguer III, Count of Barcelona at Saldana, among other celebrations, there were also bullfights.

Above: Portrait of Alfonso VII (1105 – 1157)

Above: Effigy of Berenguela (1116 – 1149), Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Spain

Above: Portrait of Ramon Berenguer IV (r. 1086 – 1131)

In the time of Emperor Charles V, Pedro Ponce de Leon was the most famous bullfighter in Spain and a renovator of the technique of killing the bull on a horse with blindfolded eyes. 

Above: Portrait of Charles V (1500 – 1558)

Juan de Quirós, the best Sevillian poet of that time, dedicated to him a poem in Latin, of which Benito Arias Montano transmits some verses.

Above: Portrait of Juan de Quirós (1487 – 1562)

Above: Benito Arias Montano (1527 – 1598)

Francisco Romero, from Ronda, Spain, is generally regarded as having been the first to introduce the practice of fighting bulls on foot around 1726, using the muleta (a stick with a red cloth sticking from it) in the last stage of the fight and an estoc (a long two-handed sword) to kill the bull.

This type of fighting drew more attention from the crowds.

Thus the modern corrida, or fight, began to take form, as riding noblemen were replaced by commoners on foot.

This new style prompted the construction of dedicated bullrings, initially square, like the Plaza de Armas (main square), and later round, to discourage the cornering of the action.

Above: Portrait of Francisco Romero (1700 – 1763)

The modern style of Spanish bullfighting is credited to Juan Belmonte, generally considered the greatest matador of all time.

Belmonte introduced a daring and revolutionary style, in which he stayed within a few centimeters of the bull throughout the fight.

Although extremely dangerous – (Belmonte was gored on many occasions.) – his style is still seen by most matadors as the ideal to be emulated.

Above: Juan Belmonte (1892 – 1962), on the cover of Time, 5 January 1925

Spanish-style bullfighting is called corrida de toros (“coursing of bulls“) or la fiesta (“festival”).

In the traditional corrida, three matadores each fight two bulls, each of which is between four and six years old and weighs no less than 460 kg (1,014 lb).

Each matador has six assistants:

Two picadores (lancers mounted on horseback), three banderilleros  – who along with the matadors are collectively known as toreros (bullfighters) – and a mozo de espadas (sword page).

Collectively they comprise a cuadrilla (entourage).

Above: Bullfight, Barcelona, Spain, 1900

In Spanish the more general torero or diestro (‘right-hander’) is used for the lead fighter, and only when needed to distinguish a man is the full title matador de toros used.

In English, “matador” is generally used for the bullfighter.

Above: Enrique Simonet’s La suerte de varas (1899) depicts Spanish-style bullfighting in a bullring, Madrid, Spain

The modern corrida is highly ritualized, with three distinct stages or tercios (“thirds“) – the start of each being announced by a bugle sound.

The participants enter the arena in a parade, called the paseíllo, to salute the presiding dignitary, accompanied by band music.

Torero costumes are inspired by 17th-century Andalusian clothing, and matadores are easily distinguished by the gold of their traje de luces (“suit of lights“), as opposed to the lesser banderilleros, who are also known as toreros de plata (“bullfighters of silver“).

The bull is released into the ring, where he is tested for ferocity by the matador and banderilleros with the magenta and gold capote (“cape“).

This is the first stage, the tercio de varas (“the lancing third“).

The matador confronts the bull with the capote, performing a series of passes and observing the behavior and quirks of the bull.

Next, a picador enters the arena on horseback armed with a vara (lance).

To protect the horse from the bull’s horns, the animal wears a protective, padded covering called peto.

Prior to 1930, the horses did not wear any protection.

Often the bull would disembowel the horse during this stage.

Until the use of protection was instituted, the number of horses killed during a fiesta generally exceeded the number of bulls killed.

At this point, the picador stabs just behind the morrillo, a mound of muscle on the fighting bull’s neck, weakening the neck muscles and leading to the animal’s first loss of blood.

The manner in which the bull charges the horse provides important clues to the matador about the bull such as which horn the bull favours.

As a result of the injury and also the fatigue of striving to injure the armoured heavy horse, the bull holds its head and horns slightly lower during the following stages of the fight.

This ultimately enables the matador to perform the killing thrust later in the performance.

The encounter with the picador often fundamentally changes the behavior of a bull.

Distracted and unengaging bulls will become more focused and stay on a single target instead of charging at everything that moves, conserving their diminished energy reserves.

In the next stage, the tercio de banderillas (“the third of banderillas“), each of the three banderilleros attempts to plant two banderillas, sharp barbed sticks, into the bull’s shoulders.

These anger and agitate the bull reinvigorating him from the aplomado (‘leadened‘) state his attacks on the horse and injuries from the lance left him in.

Sometimes a matador will place his own banderillas.

If so, he usually embellishes this part of his performance and employs more varied maneuvers than the standard al cuarteo method commonly used by banderilleros.

In the final stage, the tercio de muerte (“the third of death“), the matador re-enters the ring alone with a smaller red cloth, or muleta, and a sword.

It is a common misconception that the colour red is supposed to anger the bull.

The animals are functionally colour blind in this respect:

The bull is incited to charge by the movement of the muleta. 

The muleta is thought to be red to mask the bull’s blood, although the colour is now a matter of tradition.

The matador uses his muleta to attract the bull in a series of passes, which serve the dual purpose of wearing the animal down for the kill and creating sculptural forms between man and animal that can fascinate or thrill the audience, and which when linked together in a rhythm create a dance of passes, or faena.

The matador will often try to enhance the drama of the dance by bringing the bull’s horns especially close to his body.

The faena refers to the entire performance with the muleta.

The faena is usually broken down into tandas, or “series“, of passes.

The faena ends with a final series of passes in which the matador, using the cape, tries to maneuver the bull into a position to stab it between the shoulder blades going over the horns and thus exposing his own body to the bull.

The sword is called estoque, and the act of thrusting the sword is called an estocada.

During the initial series, while the matador in part is performing for the crowd, he uses a fake sword (estoque simulado).

This is made of wood or aluminum, making it lighter and much easier to handle.

The estoque de verdad (real sword) is made out of steel.

At the end of the tercio de muerte, when the matador has finished his faena, he will change swords to take up the steel one.

He performs the estocada with the intent of piercing the heart or aorta, or severing other major blood vessels to induce a quick death if all goes according to plan.

Often this does not happen and repeated efforts must be made to bring the bull down, sometimes the matador changing to the ‘descabello‘, which resembles a sword, but is actually a heavy dagger blade at the end of a steel rod which is thrust between the cervical vertebrae to sever the spinal column and induce instant death.

Even if the descabello is not required and the bull falls quickly from the sword one of the banderilleros will perform this function with an actual dagger to ensure the bull is dead.

If the matador has performed particularly well, the crowd may petition the President by waving white handkerchiefs to award the matador an ear of the bull.

If his performance was exceptional, the President will award two ears.

In certain more rural rings, the practice includes an award of the bull’s tail.

Very rarely, if the public and the matador believe that the bull has fought extremely bravely – and the breeder of the bull agrees to have it return to the ranch – the event’s President may grant a pardon (indulto).

If the indulto is granted, the bull’s life is spared.

It leaves the ring alive and is returned to its home ranch for treatment and then to become a semental, or seed-bull, for the rest of its life.

Spanish-style bullfighting is normally fatal for the bull, but it is also dangerous for the matador.

The danger for the bullfighter is essential.

If there is no danger, it is not considered bullfighting in Spain.

Matadors are usually gored every season, with picadors and banderilleros being gored less often.

With the discovery of antibiotics and advances in surgical techniques, fatalities are now rare, although over the past three centuries 534 professional bullfighters have died in the ring or from injuries sustained there.

Above: Francisco de Goya, Death of the Picador, 1793

Most recently, Iván Fandiño died of injuries he sustained after being gored by a bull on 17 June 2017, in Aire-sur-l’Adour, France.

Above: Iván Fandiño (1980 – 2017)

Some matadors, notably Juan Belmonte, have been seriously gored many times:

According to Ernest Hemingway, Belmonte’s legs were marred by many ugly scars.

A special type of surgeon has developed, in Spain and elsewhere, to treat cornadas, or horn wounds.

Above: Juan Belmonte (1892 – 1962)

A digression about Hemingway:

Ernest Miller Hemingway (1899 – 1961) was an American novelist, short-story writer, and journalist.

His economical and understated style — which he termed the iceberg theory — had a strong influence on 20th-century fiction, while his adventurous lifestyle and public image brought him admiration from later generations.

Hemingway produced most of his work between the mid-1920s and the mid-1950s.

He was awarded the 1954 Nobel Prize in Literature.

He published seven novels, six short-story collections, and two nonfiction works.

Three of his novels, four short-story collections, and three nonfiction works were published posthumously.

Many of his works are considered classics of American literature.

Above: Ernest Hemingway (1899 – 1961)

A digression within a digression:

The iceberg theory (or theory of omission) is a writing technique coined by American writer Ernest Hemingway.

As a young journalist, Hemingway had to focus his newspaper reports on immediate events, with very little context or interpretation.

When he became a writer of short stories, he retained this minimalistic style, focusing on surface elements without explicitly discussing underlying themes.

Hemingway believed the deeper meaning of a story should not be evident on the surface, but should shine through implicitly.

In 1923, Hemingway conceived of the idea of a new theory of writing after finishing his short story “Out of Season“.

In A Moveable Feast (1964), his posthumously published memoirs about his years as a young writer in Paris, he explains:

I omitted the real end of “Out of Season” which was that the old man hanged himself.

This was omitted on my new theory that you could omit anything.

The omitted part would strengthen the story.” 

In chapter 16 of Death in the Afternoon he compares his theory about writing to an iceberg.

Hemingway’s biographer Carlos Baker believed that as a writer of short stories Hemingway learned:

How to get the most from the least, how to prune language and avoid waste motion, how to multiply intensities, and how to tell nothing but the truth in a way that allowed for telling more than the truth.

Baker also notes that the writing style of the “iceberg theory” suggests that a story’s narrative and nuanced complexities, complete with symbolism, operate under the surface of the story itself.

For example, Hemingway believed a writer could describe an action, such as Nick Adams fishing in “Big Two-Hearted River“, while conveying a different message about the action itself — Nick Adams concentrating on fishing to the extent that he does not have to think about the unpleasantness of his war experience. 

In his essay “The Art of the Short Story“, Hemingway is clear about his method:

A few things I have found to be true.

If you leave out important things or events that you know about, the story is strengthened.

If you leave or skip something because you do not know it, the story will be worthless.

The test of any story is how very good the stuff that you, not your editors, omit.” 

A writer explained how it brings a story gravitas:

Hemingway said that only the tip of the iceberg showed in fiction — your reader will see only what is above the water — but the knowledge that you have about your character that never makes it into the story acts as the bulk of the iceberg.

And that is what gives your story weight and gravitas.

Jenna Blum , The Author at Work

From reading Rudyard Kipling, Hemingway absorbed the practice of shortening prose as much as it could take.

Above: Rudyard Kipling (1865 – 1936)

Of the concept of omission, Hemingway wrote in “The Art of the Short Story“:

You could omit anything if you knew that you omitted and the omitted part would strengthen the story and make people feel something more than they understood.

By making invisible the structure of the story, he believed the author strengthened the piece of fiction and that the “quality of a piece could be judged by the quality of the material the author eliminated.

His style added to the aesthetic: using “declarative sentences and direct representations of the visible world” with simple and plain language, Hemingway became “the most influential prose stylist in the 20th century” according to biographer Meyers.

In her paper “Hemingway’s Camera Eye“, Zoe Trodd explains that Hemingway uses repetition in prose to build a collage of snapshots to create an entire picture.

Of his iceberg theory, she claims, it “is also a glacier waterfall, infused with movement by his multi-focal aesthetic“.

Furthermore, she believes that Hemingway’s iceberg theory “demanded that the reader feel the whole story” and that the reader is meant to “fill the gaps left by his omissions with their feelings“.

Above: Zoe Trodd

Hemingway scholar Jackson Benson believes Hemingway used autobiographical details to work as framing devices to write about life in general — not only about his life.

For example, Benson postulates that Hemingway used his experiences and drew them out further with “what if” scenarios:

What if I were wounded in such a way that I could not sleep at night?

What if I were wounded and made crazy, what would happen if I were sent back to the front?

By separating himself from the characters he created, Hemingway strengthens the drama.

The means of achieving a strong drama is to minimize, or omit, the feelings that produced the fiction he wrote.

Hemingway’s iceberg theory highlights the symbolic implications of art.

He makes use of physical action to provide an interpretation of the nature of man’s existence.

It can be convincingly proved that, “while representing human life through fictional forms, he has consistently set man against the background of his world and universe to examine the human situation from various points of view.”

We return to the larger digression:

Hemingway was raised in Oak Park, Illinois.

After high school, he was a reporter for a few months for the Kansas City Star before leaving for the Italian Front to enlist as an ambulance driver in World War I.

In 1918, he was seriously wounded and returned home.

His wartime experiences formed the basis for his novel A Farewell to Arms (1929).

In the 1920s Hemingway lived in Paris as a foreign correspondent for the Toronto Star.

Americans were drawn to Paris in the Roaring Twenties by the favourable exchange rate, with as many as 200,000 English-speaking expatriates living there.

The Paris Tribune reported in 1925 that Paris had an American hospital, an American library, and an American Chamber of Commerce. 

Many American writers were disenchanted with the US, where they found less artistic freedom than in Europe.

(For example, Hemingway was in Paris during the period when Ulysses, written by his friend James Joyce, was banned and burned in New York.)

Above: James Joyce (1882 – 1941)

Hemingway travelled to Smyrna to report on the Greco-Turkish War (1919 – 1922).

He wanted to use his journalism experience to write fiction, believing that a story could be based on real events when a writer distilled his own experiences in such a way that, according to biographer Jeffrey Meyers, “what he made up was truer than what he remembered“.

Above: The Great Fire of Smyrna, 13 – 22 September 1922

In 1921, he married Hadley Richardson (1891 – 1979), the first of four wives.

Above: Hadley and Ernest Hemingway in Chamby, Switzerland, 1922

With his wife Hadley, Hemingway first visited the Festival of San Fermin in Pamplona in 1923, where he was following his recent passion for bullfighting.

Above: Festival of San Fermin, Pamplona, Spain

The couple returned to Pamplona in 1924 — enjoying the trip immensely — this time accompanied by Chink Dorman-Smith, John Dos Passos, Donald Ogden Stewart and his wife.

Above: Major General Sir Eric “Chink” Dorman-Smith (1895 – 1969): Major General Dorman-Smith (left) talking with the Chief of the Imperial General Staff, General Sir Alan Brooke at El Alamein.

Above: John dos Passos (1896 – 1970)

Above: Donald Ogden Stewart (1894 – 1980)

The Hemingways returned a third time in June 1925 and stayed at the hotel of his friend Juanito Quintana.

Above: Juanito Quintana (1891 – 1974)

That year, they brought with them a different group of American and British expatriates: Hemingway’s Michigan boyhood friend Bill Smith, Stewart, recently divorced Duff, Lady Twysden, her lover Pat Guthrie, and Harold Loeb.

Above: Always exploring, Ernest Hemingway spent much of his youth exploring northern Michigan. Here he seen canoeing as a young man.

Above: Mary Duff Stirling Smurthwaite, Lady Twysden (1891 – 1938)

Above: Harold Loeb (1891 – 1974)

Hemingway’s memory spanning multiple trips might explain the inconsistent timeframe in the novel indicating both 1924 and 1925.

In Pamplona, the group quickly disintegrated.

Above: Hemingway (left), with Harold Loeb, Duff Twysden (in hat), Hadley Richardson, Donald Ogden Stewart (obscured), and Pat Guthrie (far right) at a café in Pamplona, Spain, July 1925

Hemingway, attracted to Duff, was jealous of Loeb, who had recently been on a romantic getaway with her.

By the end of the week the two men had a public fistfight.

Against this background was the influence of the young matador from Ronda, Cayetano Ordóñez, whose brilliance in the bullring affected the spectators.

Ordóñez honored Hemingway’s wife by presenting her, from the bullring, with the ear of a bull he killed.

Above: Statue of Cayetano Ordóñez (1904 – 1961), Ronda, Spain

Outside of Pamplona, the fishing trip to the Irati River (near Burgette in Navarre) was marred by polluted water.

Above: Irati River

Hemingway had intended to write a nonfiction book about bullfighting, but then decided that the week’s experiences had presented him with enough material for a novel.

A few days after the fiesta ended, on his birthday (21 July), he began writing what would eventually become The Sun Also Rises.

By 17 August, with 14 chapters written and a working title of Fiesta chosen, Hemingway returned to Paris.

He finished the draft on 21 September 1925, writing a foreword the following weekend and changing the title to The Lost Generation.

A few months later, in December 1925, Hemingway and his wife spent the winter in Schruns, Austria, where he began revising the manuscript extensively. 

Above: Schruns, Austria

Pauline Pfeiffer (1895 – 1951) joined them in January, and — against Hadley’s advice — urged him to sign a contract with Scribner’s.

Hemingway left Austria for a quick trip to New York to meet with the publishers, and on his return, during a stop in Paris, began an affair with Pauline.

Above: Ernest and Pauline Hemingway

He returned to Schruns to finish the revisions in March. 

In June, he was in Pamplona with both Richardson and Pfeiffer.

On their return to Paris, Richardson asked for a separation, and left for the south of France. 

In August, alone in Paris, Hemingway completed the proofs, dedicating the novel to his wife and son.

After the publication of the book in October, Hadley asked for a divorce.

Hemingway subsequently gave her the book’s royalties.

Hemingway’s debut novel, The Sun Also Rises, was published in 1926.

The Sun Also Rises is a 1926 novel by Hemingway, his first, that portrays American and British expatriates who travel from Paris to the Festival of San Fermin in Pamplona to watch the running of the bulls and the bullfights.

An early and enduring modernist novel, it received mixed reviews upon publication.

However, Hemingway biographer Jeffrey Meyers writes that it is now “recognized as Hemingway’s greatest work“, and Hemingway scholar Linda Wagner-Martin calls it his most important novel.

The novel is a roman à clef:

The characters are based on real people in Hemingway’s circle, and the action is based on real events, particularly Hemingway’s life in Paris in the 1920s and a trip to Spain in 1925 for the Pamplona festival and fishing in the Pyrenees.

Hemingway presents his notion that the “Lost Generation“— considered to have been decadent, dissolute, and irretrievably damaged by World War I — was in fact resilient and strong.

Hemingway investigates the themes of love and death, the revivifying power of nature, and the concept of masculinity.

His spare writing style, combined with his restrained use of description to convey characterizations and action, demonstrates his “iceberg theory” of writing.

On the surface, the novel is a love story between the protagonist Jake Barnes — a man whose war wound has made him unable to have sex — and the promiscuous divorcée Lady Brett Ashley.

The characters form a group, sharing similar norms, and each greatly affected by the war.

Hemingway captures the angst of the age and transcends the love story of Brett and Jake, although they are representative of the period:

Brett is starved for reassurance and love.

Jake is sexually maimed.

His wound symbolizes the disability of the age, the disillusion, and the frustrations felt by an entire generation.

Hemingway thought he lost touch with American values while living in Paris, but his biographer Michael Reynolds claims the opposite, seeing evidence of the author’s midwestern American values in the novel.

Hemingway admired hard work.

He portrayed the matadors and the prostitutes, who work for a living, in a positive manner, but Brett, who prostitutes herself, is emblematic of “the rotten crowd” living on inherited money.

It is Jake, the working journalist, who pays the bills again and again when those who can pay do not.

Hemingway shows, through Jake‘s actions, his disapproval of the people who did not pay up.

Reynolds says that Hemingway shows the tragedy, not so much of the decadence of the Montparnasse crowd, but of the decline in American values of the period.

As such, the author created an American hero who is impotent and powerless.

Jake becomes the moral center of the story.

He never considers himself part of the expatriate crowd because he is a working man.

To Jake a working man is genuine and authentic, and those who do not work for a living spend their lives posing.

Jake is an expatriate American journalist living in Paris, while Brett is a twice-divorced Englishwoman with bobbed hair and numerous love affairs, and embodies the new sexual freedom of the 1920s.

Brett‘s affair with Jake‘s college friend Robert Cohn causes Jake to be upset and break off his friendship with Robert.

Her seduction of the 19-year-old matador Romero causes Jake to lose his good reputation among the Spaniards in Pamplona.

Above: Plaza Castillo, Pamplona, Spain

Book One is set in the café society of young American expatriates in Paris.

In the opening scenes, Jake plays tennis with Robert, picks up a prostitute (Georgette), and runs into Brett and Count Mippipopolous in a nightclub.

Later, Brett tells Jake she loves him, but they both know that they have no chance at a stable relationship.

In Book Two, Jake is joined by Bill Gorton, recently arrived from New York, and Brett‘s fiancé Mike Campbell, who arrives from Scotland.

Jake and Bill travel south and meet Robert at Bayonne for a fishing trip in the hills northeast of Pamplona.

Above: Bayonne, France

Instead of fishing, Robert stays in Pamplona to wait for the overdue Brett and Mike.

Robert had an affair with Brett a few weeks earlier and still feels possessive of her despite her engagement to Mike.

After Jake and Bill enjoy five days of fishing the streams near Burguete, they rejoin the group in Pamplona.

Above: Burguete, Spain

All begin to drink heavily.

Robert is resented by the others, who taunt him with antisemitic remarks.

During the Fiesta the characters drink, eat, watch the running of the bulls, attend bullfights, and bicker with each other.

Above: Running of the Bulls, Pamplona

Jake introduces Brett to the 19-year-old matador Romero at the Hotel Montoya.

Above: The Hotel Montoya

She is smitten with him and seduces him.

The jealous tension among the men builds — Jake, Mike, Robert, and Romero each want Brett.

Robert, who had been a champion boxer in college, has a fistfight with Jake and Mike, and another with Romero, whom he beats up.

Despite his injuries, Romero continues to perform brilliantly in the bullring.

In The Sun Also Rises, Hemingway contrasts Paris with Pamplona, and the frenzy of the fiesta with the tranquillity of the Spanish countryside.

Spain was Hemingway’s favorite European country.

He considered it a healthy place, and the only country “that hasn’t been shot to pieces“.

Above: Flag of Spain

He was profoundly affected by the spectacle of bullfighting, writing:

It isn’t just brutal like they always told us.

It’s a great tragedy — and the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen and takes more guts and skill and guts again than anything possibly could.

It’s just like having a ringside seat at the war with nothing going to happen to you.

He demonstrated what he considered the purity in the culture of bullfighting — called afición — and presented it as an authentic way of life, contrasted against the inauthenticity of the Parisian bohemians.

To be accepted as an aficionado was rare for a non-Spaniard.

Jake goes through a difficult process to gain acceptance by the “fellowship of afición.

The Hemingway scholar Allen Josephs thinks the novel is centered on the corrida (the bullfighting), and how each character reacts to it.

Brett seduces the young matador.

Cohn fails to understand and expects to be bored.

Jake understands fully because only he moves between the world of the inauthentic expatriates and the authentic Spaniards.

The hotel keeper Montoya is the keeper of the faith.

Romero is the artist in the ring — innocent and perfect, the one who bravely faces death.

The corrida is presented as an idealized drama in which the matador faces death, creating a moment of existentialism or nada (nothingness), broken when he vanquishes death by killing the bull.

Hemingway presents matadors as heroic characters dancing in a bullring.

He considered the bullring as war with precise rules, in contrast to the messiness of the real war that he, and by extension Jake, experienced.

Critic Kenneth Kinnamon notes that young Romero is the novel’s only honourable character.

Hemingway named Romero after Pedro Romero, an 18th-century bullfighter who killed thousands of bulls in the most difficult manner:

Having the bull impale itself on his sword as he stood perfectly still.

Reynolds says Romero, who symbolizes the classically pure matador, is the “one idealized figure in the novel“.

Josephs says that when Hemingway changed Romero‘s name from Guerrita and imbued him with the characteristics of the historical Romero, he also changed the scene in which Romero kills a bull to one of recibiendo (receiving the bull) in homage to the historical namesake.

Book Three shows the characters in the aftermath of the Fiesta.

Sober again, they leave Pamplona.

Bill returns to Paris, Mike stays in Bayonne, and Jake goes to San Sebastián on the northern coast of Spain.

Above: Images of San Sebastián, Spain

As Jake is about to return to Paris, he receives a telegram from Brett asking for help.

She had gone to Madrid with Romero.

He finds her there in a cheap hotel, without money, and without Romero.

She announces she has decided to go back to Mike.

The novel ends with Jake and Brett in a taxi speaking of the things that might have been.

Above: Madrid, Spain

In Spain in mid-1929, Hemingway researched his next work, Death in the Afternoon.

He wanted to write a comprehensive treatise on bullfighting, explaining the toreros and corridas complete with glossaries and appendices, because he believed bullfighting was “of great tragic interest, being literally of life and death“.

Death in the Afternoon is a non-fiction book written by Hemingway about the ceremony and traditions of Spanish bullfighting.

The book provides a look at the history and the Spanish traditions of bullfighting.

It also contains a deeper contemplation on the nature of fear and courage.

While essentially a guide book, there are three main sections:

  • Hemingway’s work
  • pictures
  • a glossary of terms.

Hemingway became a bullfighting aficionado after seeing the Pamplona fiesta in the 1920s, which he wrote about in The Sun Also Rises

In Death in the Afternoon, Hemingway explores the metaphysics of bullfighting — the ritualized, almost religious practice — that he considered analogous to the writer’s search for meaning and the essence of life.

In bullfighting, he found the elemental nature of life and death. 

Marianne Wiggins has written of Death in the Afternoon:

Read it for the writing, for the way it’s told.

He’ll make you like bullfighting.

You read enough and long enough, he’ll make you love it, he’s relentless“.

Above: Marianne Wiggins

In his writings on Spain, Hemingway was influenced by the Spanish master Pio Baroja.

When Hemingway won the Nobel Prize, he traveled to see Baroja, then on his death bed, specifically to tell him he thought Baroja deserved the prize more than he.

Above: Pio Baroja (1872 – 1956)

Pauline and Ernest divorced after he returned from the Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939), which he covered as a journalist and which was the basis for his novel For Whom the Bell Tolls (1940). 

Martha Gellhorn became his third wife in 1940.

Above: Martha Gellhorn (1908 – 1998)

He and Gellhorn separated after he met Mary Welsh in London during World War II.

Above: Mary Welsh (1908 – 1986)

Hemingway was present with Allied troops as a journalist at the Normandy landings and the liberation of Paris.

Above: Omaha Beach, Normandy, France, 6 June 1944

Above: The liberation of Paris, 26 August 1944

He maintained permanent residences in Key West, Florida (in the 1930s) and in Cuba (in the 1940s and 1950s).

Above: Ernest Hemingway House, Key West, Florida

He almost died in 1954 after two plane crashes on successive days, with injuries leaving him in pain and ill health for much of the rest of his life.

In 1959, he bought a house in Ketchum, Idaho, where, in mid-1961, he committed suicide.

Above: Ernest Hemingway House, Ketchum, Idaho

The Dangerous Summer is a nonfiction book by Ernest Hemingway published posthumously in 1985 and written in 1959 and 1960.

The book describes the rivalry between bullfighters Luis Miguel Dominguin and his brother-in-law, Antonio Ordóñez, during the “dangerous summer” of 1959.

Above: Luis Miguel Dominguin (1926 – 1996)

Above: Statue of Antonio Ordóñez (1932 – 1998), Plaza de Toros, Ronda

It has been cited as Hemingway’s last book.

The Dangerous Summer is an edited version of a 75,000-word manuscript Hemingway wrote between October 1959 and May 1960 as an assignment from Life magazine.

Hemingway summoned his close friend Will Lang Jr. to come to Spain to deliver the story to Life.

Popular author James Michener (Tales of the South PacificHawaiiCentennialThe SourcePoland) wrote the 33-page introduction which includes Michener’s personal knowledge of bullfights and famous matadors, a comprehensive glossary of terms related to each stage of a bullfight, and unvarnished personal anecdotes of Hemingway.

Above: James Michener (1907 – 1997)

The book charts the rise of Antonio Ordóñez (the son of Cayetano Ordóñez, the bullfighter whose technique and ring exploits Hemingway fictionalized in his novel, The Sun Also Rises) during a season of bullfights during 1959.

During a fight on 13 May 1959, in Aranjuez, Ordóñez is badly gored, but remains in the ring and kills the bull, a performance rewarded by trophies of both the bull’s ears, its tail, and a hoof.

Above: Aranjuez, Spain

By contrast, Luis Miguel Dominguín is already famous as a bullfighter and returns to the ring after several years of retirement.

Less naturally gifted than Ordóñez, his pride and self-confidence draw him into an intense rivalry with the newcomer, and the two meet in the ring several times during the season. 

Starting the season supremely confident, Dominguín is slowly humbled by this competition.

While Ordóñez displays breathtaking skill and artistry in his fights, performing highly dangerous, classical passés, Dominguín often resorts to what Hemingway describes as “tricks“, moves that look impressive to the crowd but that are actually much safer.

Nevertheless, Dominguín is gored badly at a fight in Valencia, and Ordóñez is gored shortly afterwards.

Above: Images of Valencia, Spain

Less than a month later, the two bullfighters meet in the ring again for what Hemingway described as “one of the greatest bullfights I have ever seen“, “an almost perfect bullfight unmarred by any tricks.” 

From the six bulls which they fight, the pair win ten ears, four tails and two hooves as trophies, an extraordinary feat.

Their final meeting takes place in Bilbao, with Dominguín receiving a near-fatal goring and Ordóñez demonstrating absolute mastery by performing the recibiendo kill, one of the oldest and most dangerous moves.

Above: Bilbao, Spain

Ordóñez’s recibiendo requires three attempts, displaying the fighter’s artistry and bravery that Hemingway likens to that of legendary bullfighter Pedro Romero.

Above: Pedro Romero (1754 – 1839)

Thus endeth the digressive distractions.

The bullring has a chapel where a matador can pray before the corrida, and where a priest can be found in case a sacrament is needed.

The most relevant sacrament, now called “the Anointing of the Sick“, was formerly known as “Extreme Unction” or the “Last Rites“.

Above: Chapel, Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, Madrid

The media often reports the more horrific of bullfighting injuries, such as the September 2011 goring of matador Juan José Padilla’s head by a bull in Zaragoza, resulting in the loss of his left eye, use of his right ear, and facial paralysis.

He returned to bullfighting five months later with an eyepatch, multiple titanium plates in his skull, and the nickname ‘The Pirate‘.

Above: Juan José Padilla

Until the early 20th century, the horses were unprotected and were commonly gored and killed, or left close to death (intestines destroyed, for example).

The horses used were old and worn-out, with little value.

Starting in the 20th century horses were protected by thick blankets.

Wounds, though not unknown, were less common and less serious.

Despite its slow decrease in popularity among younger generations, bullfighting remains a widespread cultural activity throughout Spain.

A 2016 poll reported that 58% of Spaniards aged 16 to 65 opposed bullfighting against 19% who supported it.

The support was lower among the younger population, with only 7% of respondents aged 16 to 24 supporting bullfighting, vs. 29% support within 55 to 65 age group.

According to the same poll, 67% of respondents felt “little to not at all” proud to live in a country where bullfighting was a cultural tradition (84% among 16 to 24 age group).

Between 2007 and 2014, the number of corridas held in Spain decreased by 60%. 

In 2007 there were 3,651 bullfighting and bull-related events in Spain but by 2018, the number of bullfights had decreased to 1,521 – a historic low.

A September 2019 Spanish government report showed that only 8% of the population had attended a bull-related event in 2018.

Of this percentage, 5.9% attended a bullfight while the remainder attended other bull-related events, such as the running of the bulls.

When asked to gauge their interest in bullfighting on a scale of 0 through 10, only 5.9% responded with 9–10.

A majority of 65% of responded with 0–2.

Among those aged 15–19, this figure was 72.1%, and for those aged 20–24, it reached 76.4%.

With a fall in attendance, the bullfighting sector has come under financial stress, as many local authorities have reduced subsidies because of public criticism.

When the COVID-19 pandemic hit Spain and the country entered into lockdown in March 2020, all bullfighting events were cancelled indefinitely.

In mid-May 2020, after more than 26,000 Spaniards had died from the virus, the bullfighting industry demanded that the government compensate them for their losses, estimated at €700 million.

This prompted outrage, and more than 100,000 people signed a petition launched by Anima Naturalis urging the government not to rescue “spectacles based on the abuse and mistreatment of animals” with taxpayer money at a time when people were struggling to survive and public finances were already heavily strained.

A 29–31 May 2020 YouGov survey commissioned by HuffPost showed that 52% of the 1,001 Spaniards questioned wanted to ban bullfighting, 35% were opposed, 10% did not know and 2% refused to answer.

A strong majority of 78% answered that corridas should no longer be partially subsidised by the government, with 12% favoring subsidies and 10% undecided.

When asked whether bullfighting was culture or mistreatment, 40% replied that it is mistreatment alone, 18% replied that it is culture alone and 37% replied that it is both.

Of the respondents, 53% had never attended a corrida.

In the late 19th and early 20th century, some Spanish regeneracionista (a kind of political movement to make Spain great again) intellectuals protested against what they called the policy of pan y toros (“bread and bulls“), an analogue of Roman panem et circenses (bread and circuses).

Such belief was part of the wider current of thought known as anti-flamenquismo, a campaign against the popularity of both bullfighting and flamenco music, which were believed to be “oriental” elements of Spanish culture that were responsible for Spain’s perceived culture gap compared to the rest of Europe.

Above: Flamenco, Córdoba, Spain

In Francoist Spain (1939 – 1975), bullfights received great governmental support, as they were considered a demonstration of greatness of the Spanish nation and received the name of fiesta nacional.

Bullfighting was therefore highly associated with the regime.

After Spain’s transition to democracy, popular support for bullfighting declined.

Above: Francisco Franco (1892 – 1975)

Opposition to bullfighting from Spain’s political parties is typically highest among those on the left. 

PSOE (Partido Socialista Obrero Español / the Spanish Socialist Workers’ Party), the main centre-left political party, has distanced itself from bullfighting but refuses to ban it.

While Spain’s largest left-wing political party Podemos (“we can“) has repeatedly called for referenda on the matter and has shown disapproval of the practise. 

PP (Partido Popular / People’s Party), the largest conservative party, strongly supports bullfighting and has requested large public subsidies for it.

The government of José Luis Rodriguez Zapatero was the first to oppose bullfighting, prohibiting children under 14 from attending events and imposing a six-year ban on live bullfights broadcast on state-run national television, although the latter measure was reversed after Zapatero’s party lost in the 2011 elections.

Above: José Luis Rodriguez Zapatero

Despite its long history in Barcelona, bullfighting was outlawed across the Catalonia region in 2010 following a campaign led by an animal-rights civic platform called “Prou!” (“Enough!” in Catalan).

Critics have argued that the ban was motivated by issues of Catalan separatism and identity politics. 

In October 2016, the Constitutional Court ruled that the regional Catalan Parliament did not have the authority to ban events that are legal in Spain.

Above: Flag of Catalonia

The Spanish Royal Family is divided on the issue.

Above: Coat of arms of the Spanish Monarchy

Former Queen Consort Sofía of Spain disapproves of bullfights.

Above: Queen Sofía of Spain

Former King Juan Carlos occasionally presided over bullfights from the royal box.

Above: King Juan Carlos I of Spain

Their daughter Princess Elena is well-known for her support of the practise and often attends bullfights.

Above: Princess Elena of Spain

Pro-bullfighting supporters include former Prime Minister Mariano Rajoy and his PP party, as well as most leaders of the opposition PSOE party, including former Prime Minister Felipe Gonzalez and the current Presidents of Andalusia (Juan Manuel Moreno), Extremadura (Guillermo Fernàndez Vara), and Castilla – La Mancha (Emiliano Garcia – Page).

Above: Mariano Rajoy

The question of public funding is particularly controversial in Spain, since widely disparaged claims have been made by supporters and opponents of bullfighting.

According to government figures, bullfighting in Spain generates €1.6 billion a year and 200,000 jobs, 57,000 of which are directly linked to the industry.

Furthermore, bullfighting is the cultural activity that generates the most tax revenue for the Spanish state (€45 million in VAT – value added taxes –  and over €12 million in social security).

According to a poll, 73% of Spaniards oppose public funding for bullfighting activities.

Above: Bullfighting in Spain by province

Critics often claim that bullfighting is financed with public money.

However, though bullfighting attracts 25 million spectators annually, it represents just 0.01% of state subsidies allocated to cultural activities, and less than 3% of the cultural budget of regional, provincial and local authorities.

The bulk of subsidies is paid by town halls in localities where there is a historical tradition and support for bullfighting and related events, which are often held free of charge to participants and spectators.

In 1991, the Canary Islands became the first Spanish Autonomous Community to ban bullfighting, when they legislated to ban spectacles that involve cruelty to animals, with the exception of cockfighting, which is traditional in some towns in the Islands. 

Bullfighting was never popular in the Canary Islands.

Some supporters of bullfighting and even Lorenzo Olarte Cullen, Canarian head of government at the time, have argued that the fighting bull is not a “domestic animal” and hence the law does not ban bullfighting.

The absence of spectacles since 1984 would be due to lack of demand.

In the rest of Spain, national laws against cruelty to animals have abolished most blood sports, but specifically exempt bullfighting.

Above: Flag of the Canary Islands

On 18 December 2009, the Parliament of Catalonia, one of Spain’s seventeen Autonomous Communities, approved by majority the preparation of a law to ban bullfighting in Catalonia, as a response to a popular initiative against bullfighting that gathered more than 180,000 signatures. 

On 28 July 2010, with the two main parties allowing their members a free vote, the ban was passed 68 to 55, with nine abstentions.

This meant Catalonia became the second Community of Spain (The first was the Canary Islands in 1991), and the first on the Mainland, to ban bullfighting.

The ban took effect on 1 January 2012, and affected only the one remaining functioning Catalan bullring, the Plaza de toros Monumental de Barcelona.

It did not affect the correbous, a traditional game of the Ebro area (south of Catalonia) where lighted flares are attached to a bull’s horns.

The correbous are seen mainly in the municipalities in the south of Tarragona, with the exceptions of a few other towns in other provinces of Catalonia.

A movement emerged to revoke the ban in the Spanish Congress, citing the value of bullfighting as “cultural heritage“.

The proposal was backed by the majority of parliamentarians in 2013.

In October 2016 the Spanish Constitutional Court ruled that the regional Catalan Parliament had no competence to ban any kind of spectacle that is legal in Spain.

The Spanish Parliament passed a law in 2013 stating that bullfighting is an ‘indisputable‘ part of Spain’s ‘cultural heritage‘.

This law was used by the Spanish Constitutional Court in 2016 to overturn the Catalan ban of 2012.

Above: Spanish Constitutional Court, Madrid, Spain

When the island of Mallorca adopted a law in 2017 that prohibited the killing of a bull during a fight, this law was also declared partially unconstitutional by the Spanish Constitutional Court in 2018, as the judges ruled that the death of the bull was part of the essence of a corrida.

Above: Flag of Mallorca

In Galicia, bullfighting has been banned in many cities by the local governments.

Bullfighting has never had an important following in the region.

Above: Flag of Galicia

The European Union does not subsidize bullfighting but it does subsidize cattle farming in general, which also benefits those who rear Spanish fighting bulls.

In 2015, 438 of 687 members of the European Parliament voted in favour of amending the 2016 EU budget to indicate that the:

Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) appropriations or any other appropriations from the budget should not be used for the financing of lethal bullfighting activities.

Above: Flag of the European Union

Most Portuguese bullfights are held in two phases:

The spectacle of the cavaleiro, and the pega.

In the cavaleiro, a horseman on a Portuguese Lusitano horse (specially trained for the fights) fights the bull from horseback.

The purpose of this fight is to stab three or four bandeiras (small javelins) into the back of the bull.

In the second stage, called the pega (“holding“), the forcados, a group of eight men, challenge the bull directly without any protection or weapon of defense.

The frontman provokes the bull into a charge to perform a pega de cara or pega de caras (face grab).

The frontman secures the animal’s head and is quickly aided by his fellows who surround and secure the animal until he is subdued. 

Forcados are dressed in a traditional costume of damask or velvet, with long knitted hats as worn by the campinos (bull headers) from Ribatejo.

The bull is not killed in the ring and, at the end of the corrida, leading oxen are let into the arena, and two campinos on foot herd the bull among them back to its pen.

The bull is usually killed out of sight of the audience by a professional butcher.

Some bulls, after an exceptional performance, are healed, released to pasture and used for breeding.

In the Portuguese Azores islands, there is a form of bullfighting called tourada à corda, in which a bull is led on a rope along a street, while players taunt and dodge the bull, who is not killed during or after the fight, but returned to pasture and used in later events.

Above: Flag of the Azores

Queen Maria II of Portugal prohibited bullfighting in 1836 with the argument that it was unbefitting for a civilised nation.

The ban was lifted in 1921, but in 1928 a law was passed that forbade the killing of the bull during a fight.

Above: Maria II of Portugal (1819 – 1853)

In practice, bulls still frequently die after a fight from their injuries or by being slaughtered by a butcher.

In 2001, matador Pedrito de Portugal controversially killed a bull at the end of a fight after spectators encouraged him to do so by chanting:

Kill the bull! Kill the bull!

The crowds gave Pedrito a standing ovation, hoisted him on their shoulders and paraded him through the streets.

Hours later the police arrested him and charged him with a fine, but they released him after crowds of angry fans surrounded the police station.

A long court case ensued, finally resulting in Pedrito’s conviction in 2007 with a fine of €100,000.

Above: Pedrito de Portugal

In 2002, the Portuguese government gave Barrancos, a village near the Spanish border where bullfighting fans stubbornly persisted in encouraging the killing of bulls during fights, a dispensation from the 1928 ban.

Above: Barrancos, Portugal

Various attempts have been made to ban bullfighting in Portugal, both nationally (in 2012 and 2018) and locally, but so far unsuccessfully.

In July 2018, animalist party PAN (Pessoas-Animais-Natureza) (People – Animals – Nature) presented a proposal at the Portuguese Parliament to abolish all types of bullfighting in the country.

Left-wing party Left Bloc voted in favour of the proposal, but criticized its lack of solutions to the foreseen consequences of the abolition.

The proposal was however categorically rejected by all other parties, that cited freedom of choice and respect for tradition as arguments against it.

Above: Bloco de Esquerda / Left Bloc ‘s logo

Since the 19th century, Spanish-style corridas have been increasingly popular in southern France where they enjoy legal protection in areas where there is an uninterrupted tradition of such bull fights, particularly during holidays such as Whitsun or Easter.

Among France’s most important venues for bullfighting are the ancient Roman arenas of Nîmes and Arles, although there are bull rings across the South from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic coasts.

Bullfights of this kind follow the Spanish tradition and even Spanish words are used for all bullfighting related terms.

Minor cosmetic differences exist such as music.

This is not to be confused with the bloodless bullfights referred to below which are indigenous to France.

A more indigenous genre of bullfighting is widely common in the Provence and Languedoc areas, and is known alternately as “course libre” or “course camarguaise“.

This is a bloodless spectacle (for the bulls) in which the objective is to snatch a rosette from the head of a young bull.

The participants, or raseteurs, begin training in their early teens against young bulls from the Camarque region of Provence before graduating to regular contests held principally in Arles and Nîmes but also in other Provençal and Languedoc towns and villages.

Before the course, an abrivado — a “running” of the bulls in the streets — takes place, in which young men compete to outrun the charging bulls.

The course itself takes place in a small (often portable) arena erected in a town square.

For a period of about 15–20 minutes, the raseteurs compete to snatch rosettes (cocarde) tied between the bulls’ horns.

They do not take the rosette with their bare hands, but with a claw-shaped metal instrument called a raset or crochet (hook) in their hands, hence their name.

Afterward, the bulls are herded back to their pen by gardians (Camarguais cowboys) in a bandido, amidst a great deal of ceremony.

The stars of these spectacles are the bulls.

Another type of French ‘bullfighting‘ is the “course landaise“, in which cows are used instead of bulls.

This is a competition between teams named cuadrillas, which belong to certain breeding estates.

A cuadrilla is made up of a teneur de corde, an entraîneur, a sauteur, and six écarteurs.

The cows are brought to the arena in crates and then taken out in order.

The teneur de corde controls the dangling rope attached to the cow’s horns and the entraîneur positions the cow to face and attack the player.

The écarteurs will try, at the last possible moment, to dodge around the cow and the sauteur will leap over it.

Each team aims to complete a set of at least one hundred dodges and eight leaps.

This is the main scheme of the “classic” form, the course landaise formelle.

However, different rules may be applied in some competitions.

For example, competitions for Coupe Jeannot Lafittau are arranged with cows without ropes.

At one point, it resulted in so many fatalities that the French government tried to ban it but had to back down in the face of local opposition.

The bulls themselves are generally fairly small, much less imposing than the adult bulls employed in the corrida.

Nonetheless, the bulls remain dangerous due to their mobility and vertically formed horns.

Participants and spectators share the risk.

It is not unknown for angry bulls to smash their way through barriers and charge the surrounding crowd of spectators.

The course landaise is not seen as a dangerous sport by many, but écarteur Jean-Pierre Rachou died in 2003 when a bull’s horn tore his femoral artery.

Above: Jean-Pierre Rachou (1958 – 2001)

A February 2018 study commissioned by the 30 millions d’amis foundation and conducted by the Institut français d’opinion publique (IFOP) found that 74% of the French wanted to prohibit bullfighting in France, with 26% opposed.

In September 2007, these percentages were still 50-50, with those favouring a ban growing to 66% in August 2010 and those opposed shrinking to 34%.

The survey found a correlation between age and opinion.

Younger survey participants were more likely to support a ban.

In 1951, bullfighting in France was legalised by §7 of Article 521-1 of the French Penal Code in areas where there was an ‘unbroken local tradition‘.

This exemption applies to Nîmes, Arles, Alès, Bayonne, Carcassonne and Fréjus, amongst others.

In 2011, the French Ministry of Culture added corrida to the list of ‘intangible heritage‘ of France, but after much controversy silently removed it from its website again.

Animal rights activists launched a lawsuit to make sure it was completely removed from the heritage list and thus not given extra legal protection.

The Administrative Appeals Court of Paris ruled in their favour in June 2015. 

In a separate case, the Constitutional Council ruled on 21 September 2012 that bullfighting did not violate the French Constitution.

Bullfighting had some popularity in the Philippines during Spanish rule (1565 – 1898), though foreign commentators derided the quality of local bulls and toreros.

Above: Flag of the Philippines

Bullfighting was noted in the Philippines as early as 1619, when it was among the festivities in celebration of Pope Urban III’s (r. 1185 – 1187) authorisation of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.

Above: Depiction of Urban II

Following the Spanish–American War, the Americans suppressed the custom in the Philippines under the tenure of Governor General Leonard Wood (1860 – 1927).

Above: Leonard Wood (1860 – 1927)

It was replaced with a now-popular Filipino sport, basketball.

Chile banned bullfighting shortly after gaining independence in 1818, but the Chilean rodeo (which involves horse riders in an oval arena blocking a female cow against the wall without killing it) is still legal and has even been declared a national sport.

Above: Flag of Chile

Bullfighting was introduced in Argentina by Spain, but after Argentina’s independence, the event drastically diminished in popularity and was abolished in 1899 under Law #2786.

Above: Flag of Argentina

Bullfighting was also introduced in Uruguay in 1776 by Spain and abolished by Uruguayan law in February 1912.

Thus the Plaza de toros Real de San Carlos, built in 1910, only operated for two years.

Above: Flag of Uruguay

Ecuador staged bullfights to the death for over three centuries as a Spanish colony.

On 12 December 2010, Ecuador’s President Rafael Correa announced that in an upcoming referendum, the country would be asked whether to ban bullfighting.

In the referendum, held in May 2011, Ecuadorians agreed on banning the final killing of the bull that happens in a corrida.

This means the bull is no longer killed before the public, and is instead taken back inside the barn to be killed at the end of the event.

The other parts of the corrida are still performed the same way as before in the cities that celebrate it.

This part of the referendum is applied on a regional level, meaning that in regions where the population voted against the ban, which are the same regions where bullfighting is celebrated the most, killing the animal publicly in the bullfighting plaza is still performed.

The main bullfighting celebration of the country, the Fiesta Brava in Quito was still allowed to take place in December 2011 after the referendum under these new rules.

Above: Flag of Ecuador

In Bolivia, bulls are not killed nor injured with any sticks.

The goal of Bolivian toreros is to provoke the bull with taunts without getting harmed themselves.

Above: Flag of Bolivia

Bullfighting with killing bulls in the ring is legal in Colombia. 

In 2013, Gustavo Petro, then mayor of the Colombian capital city of Bogotá, had de facto prohibited bullfighting by refusing to lease out bullrings to bullfighting organisers.

But the Constitutional Court of Colombia ruled that this violated the right to expression of the bullfighters, and ordered the bullrings to be reopened.

The first bullfight in Bogotá in four years happened on 22 January 2017 amid clashes between anti-taurino protesters and police.

Above: Flag of Colombia

In El Seibo Province of the Dominican Republic bullfights are not about killing or harming the animal, but taunting and evading it until it is tired.

Above: Flag of the Dominican Republic

Bullfighting was present in Cuba during its colonial period (1514 – 1898), but was abolished by the US military under the pressure of civic associations in 1899, right after the Spanish-American War of 1898.

The prohibition was maintained after Cuba gained independence in 1902.

Above: Flag of Cuba

Law 308 on the Protection of Animals was approved by the National Assembly of Panama on 15 March 2012.

Article 7 of the law states:

‘Dog fights, animal races, bullfights – whether of the Spanish or Portuguese style – the breeding, entry, permanence and operation in the national territory of all kinds of circus or circus show that uses trained animals of any species, are prohibited.’

Horse racing and cockfighting were exempt from the ban.

Above: Flag of Panama

Nicaragua prohibited bullfighting under a new Animal Welfare Law in December 2010, with 74 votes in favour and 5 votes against in Parliament.

Above: Flag of Nicaragua

In Honduras, under Article 11 of ‘Decree #115-2015 ─ Animal Protection and Welfare Act‘ that went into effect in 2016, dog and cat fights and duck races are prohibited, while ‘bullfighting shows and cockfights are part of the National Folklore and as such allowed‘.

However, ‘in bullfighting shows, the use of spears, swords, fire or other objects that cause pain to the animal is prohibited.’

Above: Flag of Honduras

In Costa Rica the law prohibits the killing of bulls and other animals in public and private shows.

However, there are still bullfights, called “Toros a la Tica“, that are televised from Palmares and Zapote at the end and beginning of the year.

Volunteer amateur bullfighters (improvisados) confront a bull in a ring and try to provoke him into charging and then run away.

In a December 2016 survey, 46.4% of respondents wanted to outlaw bullfights while 50.1% thought they should continue.

The bullfights do not include spears or any other device to harm the bull and resemble the running of the bulls in Pamplona, the difference being that the Costa Rican event takes place in an arena rather than in the streets, as in Pamplona.

Above: Flag of Costa Rica

Bullfighting was also banned for a period in Mexico in 1890.

Consequently some Spanish bullfighters moved to the United States to transfer their skills to the American rodeos.

Bullfighting has been banned in four Mexican states: 

  • Sonora in 2013
  • Guerrero in 2014
  • Coahuila in 2015
  • Quintana Roo in 2019.

It was banned “indefinitely” in Mexico City in 2022.

Above: Flag of Mexico

In Canada, Portuguese-style bullfighting was introduced in 1989 by Portuguese immigrants in the town of Listowel in southern Ontario.

Despite objections and concerns from local authorities and a humane society, the practice was allowed as the bulls were not killed or injured in this version.

In the nearby city of Brampton, Portuguese immigrants from the Azores practice “tourada a corda” (bullfight by rope).

Above: Flag of Canada

Jallikattu is a traditional spectacle in Tamil Nadu, India, as a part of Pongul (harvest festival) celebrations on Mattu Pongul Day (3rd day of the four day festival).

A breed of bos indicus (humped) bulls, called “Jellicut” are used.

During a jallikattu, a bull is released into a group of people.

Participants attempt to grab the bull’s hump and hold onto it for a determined distance, length of time, or with the goal of taking a pack of money tied to the bull’s horns.

The goal of the activity is more similar to bull riding (staying on a bull).

The practice was banned in 2014 by India’s Supreme Court over concerns that bulls are sometimes mistreated prior to jallikattu events.

Animal welfare investigations into the practice revealed that some bulls are poked with sticks and scythes, some have their tails twisted, some are force-fed alcohol to disorient them, and in some cases chili powder and other irritants are applied to bulls’ eyes and genitals to agitate the animals. 

The 2014 ban was suspended and reinstated several times over the years.

In January 2017, the Supreme Court upheld their previous ban and various protests arose in response.

Due to these protests, on 21 January 2017, the Governor of Tamil Nadu issued a new ordinance that authorized the continuation of jallikattu events.

On 23 January 2017 the Tamil Nadu legislature passed a bi-partisan bill, with the accession of the Prime Minister, exempting jallikattu from the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act (1960).

As of January 2017, jallikattu is legal in Tamil Nadu, but another organization may challenge the mechanism by which it was legalized, as the Animal Welfare Board of India claims that the Tamil Nadu Legislative Assembly does not have the power to override Indian federal law, meaning that the state law could possibly once again be nullified and jallikattu banned.

Above: Emblem of Tamil Nadu

American freestyle bullfighting is a style of bullfighting developed in American rodeo.

The style was developed by the rodeo clowns who protect bull riders from being trampled or gored by a loose bull.

Freestyle bullfighting is a 70-second competition in which the bullfighter (rodeo clown) avoids the bull by means of dodging, jumping, and use of a barrel.

The bullfighter is then scored points based on his performance.

In Central Valley, California, the historically Portuguese community has developed a form of bullfight in which the bull is taunted by a matador, but the lances are tipped with fabric hook and loop (e.g. velcro) and they are aimed at hook-and-loop covered pads secured to the bull’s shoulder.

Fights occur from May through October around traditional Portuguese holidays.

While California outlawed bullfighting in 1957, this type of bloodless bullfighting is still allowed if carried out during religious festivals or celebrations.

Bullfighting was outlawed in California in 1957, but the law was amended in response to protests from the Portuguese community in Gustine.

Lawmakers determined that a form of “bloodless” bullfighting would be allowed to continue, in affiliation with certain Christian holidays.

Though the bull is not killed as with traditional bullfighting, it is still intentionally irritated and provoked and its horns are shaved down to prevent injury to people and other animals present in the ring, but serious injuries still can and do occur and spectators are also at risk.

Above: Flag of California

The Humane Society of the United States has expressed opposition to bullfighting in all its forms since at least 1981.

Puerto Rico banned bullfighting and the breeding of bulls for fights by Law #176 of 25 July 1998.

Above: Flag of Puerto Rico

In Tanzania, bullfighting was introduced by the Portuguese to Zanzibar and to Pemba Island, where it is known as mchezo wa ngombe.

Similar to the Portuguese Azorean tourada a corda, the bull is restrained by a rope, and generally neither bull nor player is harmed, and the bull is not killed at the end of the fight.

Above: Flag of Tanzania

Many supporters of bullfighting regard it as a deeply ingrained, integral part of their national cultures:

In Spain, bullfighting is nicknamed la fiesta nacional (“national fiesta“).

The aesthetic of bullfighting is based on the interaction of the man and the bull.

Rather than a competitive sport, the bullfight is more of a ritual of ancient origin, which is judged by aficionados based on artistic impression and command.

American author Ernest Hemingway wrote of it in his 1932 non-fiction book Death in the Afternoon:

Bullfighting is the only art in which the artist is in danger of death and in which the degree of brilliance in the performance is left to the fighter’s honour.”

Above: Ernest Hemingway

Bullfighting is seen by some as a symbol of Spanish national culture.

The bullfight is regarded as a demonstration of style, technique, and courage by its participants, and as a demonstration of cruelty and cowardice by its critics.

While there is usually no doubt about the outcome, the bull is not viewed by bullfighting supporters as a sacrificial victim — it is instead seen by the audience as a worthy adversary, deserving of respect in its own right.

Those who oppose bullfighting maintain that the practice is a sadistic tradition of torturing and killing a bull amidst pomp and pageantry.

Supporters of bullfights, called “aficionados“, claim to respect the bulls, that the bulls live better than other cattle, and that bullfighting is a grand tradition, a form of art important to their culture.

In Spain and Latin America, opposition to bullfighting is referred to as the antitaurino movement.

In a 2012 poll, 70% of Mexican respondents wanted bullfighting to be prohibited.

Above: A dying bull in a bullfight

Bullfighting is thought to have been practised since prehistoric times throughout the entire Mediterranean coast, but it survives only in Iberia and in part of France. 

During the Arab rule of Iberia (711 – 1492), the ruling class tried to ban bullfighting, considering it a pagan celebration and heresy.

Above: Umayyad Hispania at its greatest extent in 719

In the 16th century, Pope Pius V banned bullfighting for its ties to paganism and for the danger that it posed to the participants.

Anyone who would sponsor, watch or participate in a bullfight was to be excommunicated by the Church.

Above: Pius V (né Antonio Ghislieri) (1504 – 1572)

Spanish and Portuguese bullfighters kept the tradition alive covertly.

Pius’s successor Pope Gregory XIII relaxed the Church’s position.

However, Pope Gregory advised bullfighters to not use the sport as means of honoring Jesus Christ or the saints, as was typical in Spain and Portugal.

Above: Gregory XIII ( Ugo Boncompagni)(1502 – 1585)

Bullfighting has been intertwined with religion and religious folklore in Spain at a popular level, particularly in the areas in which it has been most popular.

Bullfighting events are celebrated during festivities celebrating local patron saints, along with other activities, games and sports.

The bullfighting world is also inextricably linked to iconography related to religious devotion in Spain, with bullfighters seeking the protection of Mary and often becoming members of religious brotherhoods.

Above: Spanish bullfighters enter a chapel before a bullfight

Bullfighting is now banned in many countries.

People taking part in such activity would be liable for terms of imprisonment for animal cruelty.

Bloodless” variations, though, are often permitted and have attracted a following in California, Texas and France.

While it is not very popular in Texas, bloodless forms of bullfighting occur at rodeos in small Texas towns.

Above: Flag of Texas

In southern France, however, the traditional form of the corrida still exists and it is protected by French law.

However, in June 2015 the Paris Court of Appeals removed bullfighting / “la corrida” from France’s cultural heritage list.

Above: Flag of France

Several cities around the world (especially in Catalonia) have symbolically declared themselves to be Anti-Bullfighting Cities, including Barcelona in 2006.

Above: World laws on bullfighting – Dark blue: Nationwide ban on bullfighting / Light blue:  Nationwide ban on bullfighting, but some designated local traditions exempted / Purple:  Some subnational bans on bullfighting / Yellow: Bullfighting without killing bulls in the ring legal (‘bloodless‘)  / Red: Bullfighting with killing bulls in the ring legal (Spanish style) / Grey:  No data

RSPCA (Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) assistant director for public affairs David Bowles said:

The RSPCA is strongly opposed to bullfighting. It is an inhumane and outdated practice that continues to lose support, including from those living in the countries where this takes place such as Spain, Portugal and France.”

The bullfighting guide The Bulletpoint Bullfight warns that bullfighting is “not for the squeamish“, advising spectators to “be prepared for blood“.

The guide details prolonged and profuse bleeding caused by horse-mounted lancers, the charging by the bull of a blindfolded, armored horse who is “sometimes doped up, and unaware of the proximity of the bull“, the placing of barbed darts by banderilleros and the matador’s fatal sword thrust.

The guide stresses that these procedures are a normal part of bullfighting and that death is rarely instantaneous.

The guide further warns those attending bullfights to:

Be prepared to witness various failed attempts at killing the animal before it lies down.

Alexander Fiske – Harrison, who trained as a bullfighter to research for his book on the topic (and trained in biological sciences and moral philosophy before that) has pointed out that the bull lives three times longer than do cattle reared exclusively for meat, and lives wild during that period in meadows and forests which are funded by the premium the bullfight’s box office adds on to the price of their meat, should be taken into account when weighing concerns about both animal welfare and the environment.

He also speculated that the adrenalizing nature of the 30-minute spectacle may reduce the bull’s suffering even below that of the stress and anxiety of queueing in the abattoir.

Above: Alexander Fiske – Harrison

However, zoologist and animal rights activist Jordi Casamitjana argues that the bulls do experience a high degree of suffering:

All aspects of any bullfight, from the transport to the death, are in themselves causes of suffering.”

Above: Jordi Casamitjana

I find myself thinking of Walt Disney’s 1938 stand-alone animated short film Ferdinand the Bull:

The scene starts with many bulls, romping together and butting their heads.

However, Ferdinand is different.

All he wants to do all day is go under a shady cork tree and smell the flowers.

One day, his mother notices that he is not playing with the other bulls and asks him why.

He responds:

All I want to do is to sit and smell the flowers!

His mother is very understanding.

Ferdinand grows over the years, eventually getting to be the largest and strongest of the group.

The other bulls grow up wanting to accomplish one goal in life:

To be in the bullfights in Madrid, Spain.

But not Ferdinand.

One day, five strange-looking men show up to see the bulls.

When the bulls notice them, they fight as rough as possible, hoping to get picked.

Ferdinand doesn’t engage and continues to smell the flowers.

When he goes to sit, he doesn’t realize there is a bumblebee right underneath him.

The pain of the bee’s sting makes him go on a crazy rampage, knock the other bulls out, and eventually tear down a tree.

The five men cheer as they take Ferdinand to Madrid.

There is a lot of excitement when the day of the bullfight comes.

On posters, they call him Ferdinand the Fierce.

The event starts and out into the ring comes banderilleros, picadors and the matador who is being cheered on.

As the matador bows, a woman in the audience throws him a bouquet of flowers which land in his hand.

Finally, the moment comes where Ferdinand comes out and he wonders what is he doing there.

The banderilleros and picadors are afraid and hide, but the matador gets scared stiff because Ferdinand is so big and strong.

Ferdinand looks and sees the bouquet of flowers, walking over and scaring the matador away, but just starts smelling them.

The matador becomes very angry at Ferdinand for not charging at him.

But Ferdinand is not interested in fighting.

He is only interested in smelling the beautiful flowers.

Eventually, he is led out of the arena and taken back home where he continues to sit under the cork tree and smell the flowers.

Rodeo, a less violent cousin of bullfighting, is a competitive equestrian sport that arose out of the working practices of cattle herding in Spain and Mexico, expanding throughout the Americas and to other nations.

Originally based on the skills required of the working yaqueros and later, cowboys, in what today is the western United States, western Canada, and northern Mexico.

Today, it is a sporting event that involves horses and other livestock, designed to test the skill and speed of the cowboys and cowgirls.

The largest state-of-the-art rodeos are professional, commercial athletic contests held in climate-controlled stadiums, with broadcasting by various television networks.

Above: Bucking horse, Calgary Stampede, Alberta, Canada, 2002

Outside of the rodeo world itself, there is disagreement about exactly what rodeo is.

Professional competitors, for example, view rodeo as a sport and call themselves professional athletes while also using the title of cowboy.

Fans view rodeo as a spectator sport with animals, having aspects of pageantry and theater unlike other professional sport.

Non-westerners view the spectacle as a quaint but exciting remnant of the Wild West.

Animal rights activists view rodeo as a cruel Roman circus spectacle or an Americanized bullfight.

Above: Barrel racing, Calgary Stampede, 2007

Anthropologists studying the sport of rodeo and the culture surrounding it have commented that it is “a blend of both performance and contest“, and that rodeo is far more expressive in blending both these aspects than attempting to stand alone on one or the other.

Rodeo’s performance level permits pageantry and ritual which serve to “revitalize the spirit of the Old West” while its contest level poses a man-animal opposition that articulates the transformation of nature and “dramatizes and perpetuates the conflict between the wild and the tame.”

On its deepest level, rodeo is essentially a ritual addressing itself to the dilemma of man’s place in nature.”

Above: Team roping – here, the steer has been roped by the header, and the heeler is now attempting a throw, Brawley Round-up

Rodeo is a popular topic in country-western music, such as the 1991 Garth Brooks hit single “Rodeo“.

Rodeo has also been featured in numerous movies, television programs and in literature. 

Above: Garth Brooks

Rodeo is a ballet score written by Aaron Copland in 1942.

Above: Aaron Copland (1900 – 1990)

Country singer Chris Ledoux competed in bareback riding and wrote many of his songs based on his experiences.

Above: Chris LeDoux (1948 – 2005)

Rodeo has also been featured in a significant number of films, and some focus specifically on the sport, including: 

  • 8 Seconds

  • Cowboy Up

  • The Longest Ride

  • The Rider

  • The Cowboy Way

American-style professional rodeos generally comprise the following events: 

  • tie-down roping
  • team roping
  • steer wrestling
  • saddle bronc riding  
  • bareback bronc riding  
  • bull riding
  • barrel racing

The events are divided into two basic categories:

  • the rough stock events
  • the timed events.

Depending on sanctioning organization and region, other events may also be a part of some rodeos, such as: 

  • breakaway roping
  • goat tying
  • pole bending.

Above: Saddle bronc riding, Cody Rodeo, Wyoming

According to Encyclopedia Britannica, the “world’s first public cowboy contest” was held on 4 July 1883, in Pecos, Texas, between cattle driver Trav Windham and roper Morg Livingston.

Above: Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show

American rodeo, particularly popular today within the Canadian province of Alberta and throughout the western United States, is the official state sport of Wyoming, South Dakota, and Texas.

The iconic silhouette image of a “bucking horse and rider” is a federal and state-registered trademark of the State of Wyoming.

Above: Flag of Wyoming

The Legislative Assembly of Alberta has considered making American rodeo the official sport of that province.

However, enabling legislation has yet to be passed.

Above: Flag of Alberta

The first rodeo in Canada was held in 1902 in Raymond, Alberta, when Raymond Knight funded and promoted a rodeo contest for bronc riders and steer ropers called the Raymond Stampede.

Knight also coined the rodeo term “stampede” and built rodeo’s first known shotgun-style bucking chute.

In 1903, Knight built Canada’s first rodeo arena and grandstand and became the first rodeo producer and rodeo stock contractor.

Above: Ray Knight (1872 – 1947)

In 1912, Guy Weadick and several investors put up $100,000 to create what today is the Calgary Stampede.

The Stampede also incorporated mythical and historical elements, including native Canadians in full regalia, chuckwagon races, the Mounted Police, and marching bands.

From its beginning, the event has been held the 2nd week in July.

Since 1938, attendees were urged to dress for the occasion in western hats to add to the event’s flavour.

By 2003, it was estimated that 65 professional rodeos involving 700 members of the Canadian Professional Rodeo Association (CPRA) took place in Western Canada, along with professionals from the United States.

Many Canadian contestants were part-timers who did not earn a significant living from rodeo.

Canadians made several significant contributions to the sport of rodeo.

In 1916, at the Bascom Ranch in Welling, Alberta, John W. Bascom and his sons Raymond, Mel, and Earl designed and built rodeo’s first side-delivery bucking chute for the ranch rodeos they were producing.

In 1919, Earl and John made rodeo’s first reverse-opening side-delivery bucking chute at the Bascom Ranch in Lethbridge, Alberta.

This Bascom-style bucking chute is now rodeo’s standard design. 

Earl Bascom also continued his innovative contributions to the sport of rodeo by designing and making rodeo’s first hornless bronc saddle in 1922, rodeo’s first one-hand bareback rigging in 1924, and the first high-cut rodeo chaps in 1928.

Earl and his brother Weldon also produced rodeo’s first night rodeo held outdoors under electric lights in 1935.

Above: Earl Bascom (1906 – 1995)

The Canadian Pro Rodeo Hall of Fame is located in Ponoka, Alberta.

In the US, professional rodeos are governed and sanctioned by the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association (PRCA) and the Women’s Professional Rodeo Association (WPRA), while other associations govern assorted children’s, high school, collegiate, and other amateur or semi-professional rodeos.

Associations also exist for Native Americans and other minority groups.

The traditional season for competitive rodeo runs from spring through fall, while the modern professional rodeo circuit runs longer, and concludes with the PRCA National Finals Rodeo (NFR) in Las Vegas, Nevada, currently held every December.

Above: Steer wrestling, National Finals Rodeo, Las Vegas, Nevada, 2004

Rodeo has provoked opposition from animal rights and some animal welfare advocates, who argue that various competitions constitute animal cruelty.

The American rodeo industry has made progress in improving the welfare of rodeo animals, with specific requirements for veterinary care and other regulations that protect rodeo animals.

However, some local and state governments in North America have banned or restricted rodeos, certain rodeo events, or types of equipment.

Internationally, rodeo is banned in the United Kingdom and the Netherlands, with other European nations placing restrictions on certain practices.

Protests were first raised regarding rodeo animal cruelty in the 1870s.

Beginning in the 1930s, some states enacted laws curtailing rodeo activities and other events involving animals.

In the 1950s, the then Rodeo Cowboys Association (RCA, later the PRCA) worked with the American Humane Association (AHA) to establish regulations protecting the welfare of rodeo animals that were acceptable to both organizations.

The PRCA realized that public education regarding rodeo and the welfare of animals was needed to keep the sport alive.

Over the years, conditions for animals in rodeo and many other sporting events improved.

Today, the PRCA and other rodeo sanctioning organizations have stringent regulations to ensure rodeo animals’ welfare.

For example, these rules require, among other things, provisions for injured animals, a veterinarian’s presence at all rodeos (a similar requirement exists for other equine events), padded flank straps, horn protection for steers, and spurs with dulled, free-spinning rowels.

Rodeo competitors in general value and provide excellent care to the animals with which they work.

Animals must also be protected with fleece-lined flank straps for bucking stock and horn wraps for roping steers.

Laws governing rodeo vary widely.

In the American west, some states incorporate the regulations of the PRCA into their statutes as a standard by which to evaluate if animal cruelty has occurred.

On the other hand, some events and practices are restricted or banned in other states, including California, Rhode Island, and Ohio. 

St. Petersburg, Florida is the only locality in the United States with a complete ban on rodeo. 

Above: St. Petersburg, Florida

Canadian humane societies are careful in criticizing Canadian rodeo as the event has become so indigenous to Western Canada that criticism may jeopardize support for the organization’s other humane goals.

The Calgary Humane Society itself is wary of criticizing the famous Calgary Stampede.

As aforementioned, internationally rodeo itself is banned in the United Kingdom and the Netherlands.

Other European nations have placed restrictions on certain practices.

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

Above: Flag of the Netherlands

However, a number of humane and animal rights organizations have policy statements that oppose many rodeo practices and often the events themselves.

Some also claim that regulations vary from vague to ineffective and are frequently violated. 

Other groups assert that any regulation still allows rodeo animals to be subjected to gratuitous harm for the sake of entertainment, and therefore rodeos should be banned altogether.

In response to these concerns, a number of cities and states, mostly in the eastern half of the United States, have passed ordinances and laws governing rodeo. 

Above: Flag of the United States of America

Pittsburgh, for example, specifically prohibits electric prods or shocking devices, flank or bucking straps, wire tie-downs, and sharpened or fixed spurs or rowels.

Pittsburgh also requires humane officers be provided access to any and all areas where animals may go — specifically pens, chutes, and injury pens.

Above: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

The state of Rhode Island has banned tie-down roping and certain other practices.

Other locales have similar ordinances and laws.

Above: Flag of Rhode Island

There are three basic areas of concern to various groups.

The first set of concerns surround relatively common rodeo practices, such as the use of bucking straps, also known as flank straps, the use of metal or electric cattle prods, and tail-twisting.

The second set of concerns surround non-traditional rodeo events that operate outside the rules of sanctioning organizations.

These are usually amateur events such as: 

  • mutton busting
  • calf dressing 
  • wild cow milking
  • calf riding
  • chuck wagon races
  • other events designed primarily for publicity, half-time entertainment or crowd participation.

Finally, some groups consider some or all rodeo events themselves to be cruel.

Above: Mutton busting, Denver Rodeo, Colorado, 2007

Animal rights groups, such as PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals), SHARK (Showing Animals Respect and Kindness) and the Humane Society of the United States, generally take a position of opposition to all rodeos and rodeo events.

A more general position is taken by the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals), only opposing rodeo events that “involve cruel, painful, stressful and potentially harmful treatment of livestock, not only in performance but also in handling, transport and prodding to perform“.

The group singles out children’s rodeo events, such as goat tying, calf riding and sheep riding (“mutton busting”), “which do not promote humane care and respect for animals“.

The AHA (American Humane Association) does not appear to oppose rodeos per se, though they have a general position on events and contests involving animals, stating that “when animals are involved in entertainment, they must be treated humanely at all times“.

Above: Goat tying

Why must animals be entertaining?

Why can’t we simply let them live their lives being themselves?

Why must we insist that nature serve us?

 

The AHA also has strict requirements for the treatment of animals used for rodeo scenes in movies, starting with the rules of the PRCA and adding additional requirements consistent with the association’s other policies.

Unique among animal protection groups, the ASPCA specifically notes that practice sessions are often the location of more severe abuses than competitions.

However, many state animal cruelty laws provide specific exemptions for “training practices“.

The AHA is the only organization addressing the legislative issue, advocating the strengthening of animal cruelty laws in general, with no exceptions for “training practices“.

I am not disputing that man’s courage and skill and tradition as shown in bullfights and rodeos should be respected.

But what of the lives of the animals involved?

What of their dignity, their feelings, their well-being?

Man was appointed by God – if religious writ is to be believed – to have dominion over the beasts.

Everything a man does to an animal is either a lawful exercise or a sacrilegious abuse of an authority by divine right.

C.S. Lewis

Above: Clive Staples Lewis (1898 – 1963)

Humans have “dominion” over animals, but that “dominion” (radah in Hebrew) does not mean despotism.

Rather we are set over creation to care for what God has made and to treasure God’s own treasures.

Andrew Linzey

Above: Andrew Linzey

The more helpless the creature, the more that it is entitled to the protection of man.

Mahatma Gandhi

Above: Mahatma Gandhi ( Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi) (1869 – 1948)

I find myself thinking of three interconnected memories:

In a 12 May 1984 Peanuts comic strip, the dog Snoopy is seen strolling towards Charlie Brown and Sally.

Snoopy gives them both warm and sincere hugs.

Afterwards, Charlie Brown explains their dog’s actions to his puzzled sister:

You can always tell when he’s been listening to Leo Buscaglia tapes.”

Felice Leonardo Buscaglia (1924 – 1998), also known as “Dr. Love“, was an American author, motivational speaker, and a professor in the Department of Special Education at the University of Southern California.

Above: Leo Buscaglia

Buscaglia was born in Los Angeles into a family of Italian immigrants. 

He spent his early childhood in Aosta, Italy, before going back to the US for education.

He was a graduate of Theodore Roosevelt High School.

Buscaglia served in the US Navy during World War II.

He did not see combat, but he saw its aftermath in his duties in the dental section of the military hospital, helping to reconstruct shattered faces. 

Using GI Bill benefits, he entered the University of Southern California, where he earned three degrees (BA 1950, MA 1954, PhD 1963) before eventually joining the faculty.

While teaching at USC, Buscaglia was moved by a student’s suicide to contemplate human disconnectedness and the meaning of life, and began a noncredit class he called Love 1A

This became the basis for his first book, titled simply Love.

He was the first to state and promote the concept of humanity’s need for hugs: 5 to survive, 8 to maintain, and 12 to thrive.

His dynamic speaking style was discovered by PBS (Public Broadcasting Service), and his televised lectures earned great popularity in the 1980s.

At one point his talks, always shown during fundraising periods, were the top earners of all PBS programs.

This national exposure, coupled with the heartfelt storytelling style of his books, helped make all his titles national bestsellers.

Five were once on the New York Times bestsellers list simultaneously.

Buscaglia wrote a dozen books.

I have read only two: Love and The Way of the Bull.

The second aforementioned book reveals the truth of self Leo Buscaglia discovered on two trips to Asia, by travelling the “way of the bull“, as well as describing the people and physical locales of Southeast Asia prior to the Vietnam War.

The meaning of the title originated in the 12th century Zen book, 10 Bulls, by the Zen master Kaku-an Shi-en.

In Kaku-an’s book, the bull represents life, energy, truth and action.

The way” concerns the possible step one man might take to gain insight, find oneself and discover one’s true nature.

Buscaglia reminds us, however, that each person must find that path individually in order for it to have true meaning.

Consider the Ten Bulls:

  1. In search of the bull:

In the pasture of the world, I endlessly push aside the tall grasses in search of the Ox.
Following unnamed rivers, lost upon the interpenetrating paths of distant mountains, my strength failing and my vitality exhausted, I cannot find the Ox.

2. Discovery of the footprints

Along the riverbank under the trees, I discover footprints.
Even under the fragrant grass, I see his prints.
Deep in remote mountains they are found.
These traces can no more be hidden than one’s nose, looking heavenward.

3. Perceiving the bull

I hear the song of the nightingale.
The sun is warm, the wind is mild, willows are green along the shore –
Here no Ox can hide!
What artist can draw that massive head, those majestic horns?

4. Seizing the bull

I seize him with a terrific struggle.
His great will and power are inexhaustible.
He charges to the high plateau far above the cloud-mists,
Or in an impenetrable ravine he stands.

5. Taming the bull

The whip and rope are necessary,
Else he might stray off down some dusty road.
Being well-trained, he becomes naturally gentle.
Then, unfettered, he obeys his master.

6. Riding the bull home

Mounting the Ox, slowly I return homeward.
The voice of my flute intones through the evening.
Measuring with hand-beats the pulsating harmony, I direct the endless rhythm.
Whoever hears this melody will join me.

7. The bull transcended

Astride the Ox, I reach home.
I am serene.

The Ox too can rest.
The dawn has come.

In blissful repose, within my thatched dwelling, I have abandoned the whip and ropes.

8. Both bull and self transcended

Whip, rope, person, and Ox – all merge in No Thing.
This heaven is so vast, no message can stain it.
How may a snowflake exist in a raging fire?
Here are the footprints of the Ancestors.

9. Reaching the source

Too many steps have been taken, returning to the root and the source.
Better to have been blind and deaf from the beginning!
Dwelling in one’s true abode, unconcerned with and without –
The river flows tranquilly on and the flowers are red.

10. Return to society

Barefooted and naked of breast, I mingle with the people of the world.
My clothes are ragged and dust-laden, and I am ever blissful.
I use no magic to extend my life.
Now, before me, the dead trees become alive.

Without love – including love of one’s self – life is without meaning.

Each person must find that path individually in order for it to have true meaning.

In getting lost, in relinquishing the need to control, meaning may be found.

There is much we can learn from nature if we would cease trying to control it.

We fear nature, for we have given nature cause to fear us.

If we would approach all God’s creatures great and small in a spirit of compassion, aware that they too feel, that their lives possess meaning, that they too are deserving of respect and dignity, that they too must find their own path in their own ways, then maybe, just maybe, we might be worthy of life as well.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Rough Guide to Turkey / Arrogant Worms, “I Am Cow“, Dirt / Leo Buscaglia, Love / Leo Buscaglia, The Way of the Bull / Denise Hruby, “Cows bring danger for hikers in Alps“, Washington Post, 12 August 2020 / Charles Schulz, Peanuts, 12 May 1984 / Kaku-an Shi-en, The Ten Bulls / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows

Canada Slim and the Lessons of the True Cross

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Thursday 16 June 2022

Steve Biddulph tells a story which resonates with me every time I think of it:

Two farmers stand in the dusty yard of a property.

One is a neighbour, come to say goodbye.

The other is watching as the last of his furniture is packed onto a truck.

The farm looks bare.

Stock gone, machinery sold.

Two teenagers stand by the car.

The wife sits inside it.

Eyes averted.

The two men have farmed alongside each other for 30 years, fought bushfires, driven through the night with injured children, eaten thousands of scones, drunk gallons of black tea, and cared for each other’s wives and kids as their own.

They have shared good times and bad.

Now, one is leaving.

Bankrupt.

He will go to live in the city, where his wife will support them by cleaning motels.

Well, I’ll be off then.“, says one.

Yeah. Thanks for coming over.“, says the other.

Look us up sometime.“, says the one.

Yeah, I reckon.“, says the other.

They climb into their vehicles and leave.

While their wives will correspond for years to come, these men will never exchange words again.

So much unspoken.

So much that would help the healing to take place from this terrible turn of events.

What pain would flow out if one was to say:

Listen, you have been the best friend a man could want.” and looked the other straight in the eye as he said it.

If they had spent a long evening together with their wives, full of “remember when” punctuated with tears and easing laughter.

If, instead of standing stiff-armed and choked, they could have had a long strong hug, from which to draw strength and assurance, as they faced the hardship their futures would bring.

The farmer leaving the land will not find the opportunity for any support, comfort or appreciation.

He twists up inside to suppress the emotions his body feels.

Self-censoring of any kind of warmth, creativity, affection or emotion.

No one feels free to be himself, to simply be.

A night out with the boys – the terrible trio (joined briefly by the lovely Miss S.) of “Luck of the Irish” Paul, “the Yank that Florida forgot” Ian, and Canada Slim (a legend in his own mind) your humble blogger.

Three expats from places few, if any, of our students have ever visited, on a Saturday night in a pseudo-Irish pub named the Dublin, a watering hole with as little connection to the Irish capital as an African has with Greenland.

In an ideal world men would see each other as brothers, with good things to give and to receive.

The Xervante people of Brazil divide manhood up into eight stages of growth.

These peer groups stay very close throughout life.

They are also helped by those in the group higher up in the sequence.

Each year the Xervante hold running races for each group in turn.

These races look like a contest but they are not.

When a runner falters or trips, the others pick him up and run with him.

The group always finishes together.

It is not a race at all, though everyone puts in a huge effort.

It is a celebration of manhood – an expression of vitality.

The Xervante is a culture that has survived thousands of years by cooperation.

They don’t have to prove they are men.

They celebrate that they are men.

I wonder:

Do women feel the need to prove that they are women?

Friends offer enormous comfort.

They help to structure your time.

They show you that you belong and can be cared about.

A man who lacks a network of friends is seriously impaired from living his life, from loving his life.

Friends alleviate the neurotic overdependence on a wife or a girlfriend for every emotional need.

If a man, going through a “rough patch“, gets help from his friends as well as his partner, then the burden is shared.

If his problems are with his partner (as they often are) then his friends can help him through, talk sense into him, stop him acting stupidly and help him to release his grief.

Male friends can do these things where women cannot.

Other men know how a man feels.

Men have issues which do not have a female equivalent.

Only other men can help a man learn about the ongoing process of being a man.

Millions of women complain about their male partner’s lack of feeling, his woodenness.

Men themselves often feel numb and confused about what they really want.

This is usually attributed to the irreconcilable split between men and women – the “battle of the sexes“.

But what if men’s inarticulateness simply comes from a lack of sharing opportunities (as opposed to bullshit sessions) with other men?

If men talked to each other more, perhaps they would understand themselves better.

Perhaps they would have more to say to their female partners.

Only in the company of other men can men begin to activate themselves.

As men’s voices have a different tone, so do their feelings.

We have more than enough feelings, but they are not the same as women’s.

But where women instinctively seem to have no trouble expressing themselves, many men are not as fortunate.

We have been set up.

We are asked to be more intimate and sensitive.

However, we are still coached in the possibility of being sent to war, still expected to be tough when needed.

Because toughness is needed in this life.

Toughness is expected from a man.

We and our women folk don’t actually want men who are weaker.

Just men who can shift gears when needed.

Not an easy task.

Controlling one’s feelings is a very valuable part of being male.

It has great survival value.

And all women, deep down, count on this.

But being able to also let go of these feelings, when the time is right, is another matter entirely.

For truth be told, reserve creates reserve, unspoken fears remain unexpressed.

But banter and warmth to counter the internal struggle of loss and shame teaches us respect for pain and endurance.

We live deep within.

We speak, we listen.

There is a pressure inside that builds up over a very long period of time.

We are tense, we are numb, because we have held ourselves back.

Women have their own pain and so cannot always provide what a man needs.

Failing to express the depth of what a man feels leads to a shutdown in the full spectrum of emotions – anger, fear, warmth and love.

Passion is gone.

Passion is needed.

Dearly beloved, we are gathered together to celebrate that thing called Life.

Men gather together to have fun.

Noisy, energetic, affectionate, ribald, accepting, cautious, but free from respectability or restraint.

We are harsh with one another.

We are zany.

We call out each other for the BS we all inherently have.

Character is built this way.

We are islands of seriousness in an ocean of fun.

Our lives are eased, stabilized and supported by these friendships.

We each have our own cross to bear, but it is comforting to know that others care burdens equal to our own.

That we are not alone in suffering and sorrow.

Of course, the question arises:

What are we doing with our lives?

We sip our drinks, and I am reminded of Ronald Gross’ The Independent Scholar’s Handbook:

Ronald, I have always made a respectable living, but I have not been willing to give up my life to getting the kind of money with which you can buy the best things in life.

I am stuck in business and routine and tedium.

I must live as I can.

But I give up only as much as I must.

For the rest, I have lived, and always will live, my life as it can be lived at its best, with art, music, poetry, literature, science, philosophy and thought.

I shall know the keener pleasures, as long as I can and as much as I can.

That is the real practical use of self-education and self-culture.

It converts a world which is only a good world for those who can win at its ruthless game into a world good for all of us.

Your education is the only thing that nothing can take from you in this life.

You can lose your money, your wife, your children, your friends, your pride, your honour and your life, but while you live you cannot lose your culture, such as it is.

Sometimes I think that ESL teachers are the plongeurs (the dishwashers) of language.

Ours is a job that offers little prospects beyond more hours that may generate more trivial amounts of money spent in more frivolous ways.

Our lives are intensely exhausting, though we must pretend to possess an energy we do not really feel.

To be enthusiastic, we act enthusiastic.

But the more honest an ESL teacher is, the more he admits that this energy is merely a generated sham to encourage those who cannot learn that they should nevertheless try.

We try to bring hope to the hopeless and happiness to the hapless, even though we know that many of those in our charge possess hardly a whit (or wit) of skill or interest in our struggles to somehow educate them.

Ours is the sort of job a lazy man thinks enviable, only to soon realize that advancement (what little there might be) requires effort even in this endeavour.

This is the sort of job an alcoholic might consider doing in his brief moments of sobriety.

All that is required is to speak words that sound plausible for the monies of the gullible.

We avoid penury and injury by pretending wisdom and intelligence.

Happily, some of us need not pretend.

But low as we are and as far removed as we may be from the sacred groves of Academe, we possess a perverse pride that sustains us.

It is the pride of the drudge.

We are intellectual beasts of burden, oxen dragging ploughshares through the barren fields of blissful ignorance, seeking a harvest that can maintain us.

We will teach anyone anything if it is sought and taught in English.

Our capacity to continue is our only virtue.

Our brilliant ruse that we can teach the improbable to the impossible is our only vice.

Some of us when school shifts end stagger bone-weary to our bowers, turn on our laptops and continue to teach online for as long as there are students willing to learn in the remaining hours before midnight.

Few would ever demand our services past midnight or prior to dawn, but were there such denizens of the night, an ESL teacher would fight exhaustion and keep teaching till his last coherent thought fades into unconscious slumber.

Those with intimate companions seek solace and silence in the arms of amnesia.

Those without such comforts seek release in other ways.

Some to the quiet dullness of apartment hovels we laughingly call home.

Others when propriety allows to the taverns they hie.

Truth of character lies at the bottom of a glass, coaxed cleverly from the neck of a bottle, spoken loudly from the courage of uninhibited spirits.

We are not alcoholics, but not for lack of trying.

Men who teach are frustrated by women who share the profession, such obstinate virtue, minds of metal encased in bodies made for sin.

We speak about the unspeakable, professing love for the unlovable, draining hope’s last drop from transparent glasses.

We wish to quarrel but that requires effort.

So we shout and we joke and we drink and the smokers smoke and the non-smokers choke and we make love to the moment.

We stagger home aware of our deficiencies and return to anonymous apartments and invisible lives.

The expat ESL teacher knows that the natives make less and work more, but we grumble nonetheless ungratefully.

Oh, woe is the world of the wandering scholar!

Oh, weep for the women who wonder why we are driven so!

We seek to belong where we do not and flee from the places where we once did.

We tell ourselves we are happy.

Occasionally our lies convince even ourselves.

Morning comes and the bones ache and the eyes itch and the mouth is dry.

Another day is dawning.

I recall what words of wisdom remain from the haze of the evening.

We spoke of colleagues, both loved and loathed.

We spoke of students, the delightful and the despised.

We spoke of Eskişehir and sought to justify our presence here.

We spoke of what it isn’t to find feeling for what it is.

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir

It is neither Istanbul nor Ankara with their crowds and their cost and their cacophony of chaos and cars.

Above: Istanbul

Above: Ankara

Tourists rarely come here, for what might attract them is quickly seen and forgotten.

It is neither Kars nor Konya where conservatives demand lip service over the freedom of thought and expression that is every person’s due, for Eskişehir is a university town that leans liberally left.

Above: Kars

In Konya, women scurry.

Above: Konya

In Eskişehir, women strut.

Above: Bridge over Porsuk River in Eskişehir

Away from the dark thoughts of the drinkers of the Dublin.

Morning has broken and dawn recalls the places that once were familiar.

And for reasons not immediately clear I think of Kreuzlingen, Switzerland…..

Above: Kreuzlingen

Kreuzlingen, Switzerland, Thursday 30 December 2021

First, let me explain myself.

I believe that travel should bring people together.

We travel to have enlightening experiences, to meet inspirational people, to be stimulated, to learn, to grow.

Travel humbles you, enriches you, shapes your world view, and sometimes activates you into doing your part in making the world a better place for everyone.

We better ourselves by observing others.

We learn about ourselves by observing others and by challenging ourselves to see beyond our individual selves.

By learning from our travels and bringing these ideas home, we make our homes even stronger.

With thoughtful travel comes powerful lessons.

We need to travel purposefully, to learn with an open mind, to consider new solutions to old problems, to come home and look at ourselves more honestly, and help our society confront its challenges more wisely.

I have been back in Switzerland two days and I am already ready to leave, for I share the sentiments that Lord Byron once did:

Switzerland is a cursed, selfish, swinish country of brutes in the most romantic region of the world.

Above: Lord Byron (1788 – 1824)

And of the places in this land that reflect the character of the Swiss without the romance of their geography, Kreuzlingen is the epitome of what I dislike the most here.

Above: Kreuzlingen

Kreuzlingen is a municipality in the canton of Thurgau in northeastern Switzerland.

It is the second-largest city of the canton (after Frauenfeld, the cantonal capital) with a population of about 22,000.

Together with the adjoining city of Konstanz (Constance) just across the border in Germany, Kreuzlingen is part of the largest conurbation on the Bodensee (Lake Constance) with a population of almost 120,000.

And it is Kreuzlingen’s location that is both its attraction and detraction.

Above: Kreuzlingen, Switzerland and Konstanz, Germany, 1919

One never goes to Kreuzlingen.

One goes through Kreuzlingen.

Unless one has no other choice but to linger.

When I lived in Landschlacht, 15 km to the east, I would go through Kreuzlingen en route to Konstanz or Zürich.

Only sheer bloody necessity would compel me to go to Kreuzlingen.

Above: Landschlacht

I would come to Kreuzlingen to go to the gym, for a husband must remain silent about the changes in a spouse’s body as she ages, but a wife is forever vocal about her dissatisfaction to aging in her husband’s form.

I treat gyms as I do banks or government institutions.

I go through the motions but I never enjoy myself when I do.

Above: Activ Fitness, Kreuzlingen

I would come to Kreuzlingen when between jobs I sought money from social services.

Time expended was never the same as money extended.

The rudeness and aggravation associated with these monthly endurance trials darkened my foul feelings towards Kreuzlingen even further.

Above: Coat of arms of Kreuzlingen

Kreuzlingen came to be further associated with unpleasantness, for it was the closest urban centre where residents of Landschlacht could get PCR testing for the coronavirus without a hospital visit.

Folks coming into the country from abroad, such as I from Turkey, had to be PCR tested within days of their arrival on Swiss soil, regardless of whether you had been tested before you left the land you had been in.

There is the old joke about what is European heaven and what is European hell:

Heaven is where:

  • the police are British
  • the chefs Italian
  • the mechanics German
  • the lovers French
  • and everything is organized by the Swiss.

Hell is where:

  • the police are German
  • the chefs British
  • the mechanics French
  • the lovers Swiss
  • and everything is organized by the Italians.

But I don’t think a Heaven where everything is organized by the Swiss is such a divine idea, especially when the ideas of enforcement (i.e. law and order) in German-speaking Schweiz are Germanic in attitude and application.

Add to this the universal axiom that governments everywhere love to take but loathe to give.

I, in some fit of madness, married a law-abiding German woman with whom I had moved to Switzerland.

Above: Flag of Germany

She, in another type of insanity, married a cantankerous Canadian for whom rules rub him roughly.

Above: Flag of Canada

Truly, opposites attract.

So, like husbands who capitulate to their wives’ whims for the sake of peace (never found) at home, I found myself submitting, yet again, to children in medical attire thrusting a sharp pointy object up a nasal cavity until the deposited brain matter is collected and assessed for that ever fateful announcement that you too might have contracted the coronavirus.

(And Chandler Bing, of Friends fame, sarcastically remarks:

You need to stop the Q-tip when there’s resistance.“)

Above: Scene from Friends

If I have one failing (among many) in my character, it is that I always try to find something positive about everyone and every situation.

My first impressions of Kreuzlingen were negative and I have tried, truly tried, to find something, anything, positive to change my attitude towards the place.

Even now, as I grumble about it, this post is trying, still, to give a fair and balanced view of a place I find it difficult to like.

Above: Hauptstrasse, Kreuzlingen

Consider its history and you may begin to see reasons for my ever present attitude.

Konrad, Bishop of Konstanz (935 – 976) brought back from Jerusalem a fragment of the True Cross, which he presented to the hospital he had founded in the Konstanz suburb of Stadelhofen and from which it took the name of “Crucelin” which later became Crucelingen / Kreuzlingen.

Above: Gold-plated Konrad disk, Konstanz Cathedral

The name of the municipality stems from the Augustinian monastery Crucelin, later Kreuzlingen Abbey. 

It was founded in 1125 by the Bishop of Constance (Konstanz) Ulrich I.

Above: Parish church of St. Ulrich and St. Afra, once the church of the former Augustinian monastery in Kreuzlingen

In 1144 Pope Lucius II, and in 1145 Emperor Frederick Barbarossa took the monastery under their protection.

Above: Lucius II (né Gherardo Caccianemici dal Orso) (d. 1145)

Above: Stained glass image of Frederick I (Barbarossa) (1122 – 1190), Strasbourg Cathedral, France

The first monastery stood outside the city walls.

Above: Interior of St. Ulrich, Kreuzlingen

At the time of the Council of Constance (Konstanz) (1414 – 1418) the Abbot of Kreuzlingen gave shelter from 27 to 28 October 1414 to the later deposed Pope John XXIII.

Above: Council Hall, Konstanz

Baldassarre Cossa (1370 – 1419) was Pisan Antipope John XXIII (1410 – 1415) during the Western Schism (a split within the Catholic Church, lasting from 1378 to 1417, in which bishops residing in Rome and Avignon both claimed to be the true Pope, and were joined by a third line of claimants from Pisa in 1409.).

The Catholic Church regards Cossa as an Antipope, as he opposed Pope Gregory XII whom the Catholic Church now recognizes as the rightful successor of Saint Peter.

Cossa was also an opponent of Antipope Benedict XIII, who was recognized by the French bishop as legitimate Pontiff.

Cossa was born in the Kingdom of Naples.

He participated in the Council of Pisa in 1408, which sought to end the Western Schism with the election of a third alternative Pope.

In 1410, Cossa succeeded Antipope Alexander V, taking the name John XXIII.

At the instigation of Sigismund, King of the Romans, Pope John called the Council of Constance of 1413, which deposed John XXIII and Benedict XIII, accepted Gregory XII’s resignation, and elected Pope Martin V to replace them, thus ending the Schism.

John XXIII was tried for various crimes, though later accounts question the veracity of those accusations.

Towards the end of his life Cossa restored his relationship with the Church and was made Cardinal Bishop of Frascati by Pope Martin V.

Above: John XXIII

When asked by Emperor Frederick to also join the Swabian League, the Eidgenossen (Switzerland) flatly refused:

They saw no reason to join an alliance designed to further Habsburg interests, and they were wary of this new, relatively closely knit and powerful alliance that had arisen on their northern frontier.

Furthermore, they resented the strong aristocratic element in the Swabian League, so different from their own organization, which had grown over the last 200 years liberating themselves from precisely such an aristocratic rule.

Above: Flag of the Old Swiss Confederacy (1300 – 1798)

On the Swabian (southern Germany, present day Württemberg) side, similar concerns existed.

For the common people in Swabia, the independence and freedom of the Eidgenossen was a powerful and attractive role model.

Many a baron in southern Swabia feared that his own subjects might revolt and seek adherence to the Swiss Confederacy.

Above: Coat of arms of the Counts of Habsburg

These fears were not entirely without foundation:

The Swiss had begun to form alliances north of the Rhine River, concluding a first treaty with Schaffhausen in 1454 and then also treaties with cities as far away as Rottweil (Germany)(1463) and Mulhouse (France)(1466).

Above: Schaffhausen

Above: Rottweil

Above: Images of Mulhouse

The city of Konstanz and its Bishop were caught in the middle between these two blocks:

Above: Rheintorturm (Rhine Gate Tower), Konstanz

Above: Coat of arms of the Bishop of Konstanz (1155 – 1803)

They held possessions in Swabia, but the city also still exercised the high justice over Thurgau, where the Swiss had assumed the low justice since its annexation in 1460.

Above: Coat of arms of Baden – Württemberg, formerly of the Duchy of Swabia

Above: Flag of Canton Thurgau

The foundation of the Swabian League prompted the Swiss city states of Zürich and Bern to propose accepting Konstanz into the Swiss Confederacy.

Above: Zürich

Above: Bern

The negotiations failed, though, due to the opposition of the founding cantons of the Confederacy and Canton Uri in particular.

The split jurisdiction over Thurgau was the cause of many quarrels between the city and the Confederacy.

In 1495, one such disagreement was answered by a punitive expedition of soldiers of Uri.

Konstanz had to pay the sum of 3,000 guilders to make them retreat and cease their plundering.

(Thurgau was a territory of the Swiss Confederacy, and Uri was one of the cantons involved in its administration.)

Above: Flag of Canton Uri

Konstanz joined the Swabian League as a full member on 3 November 1498.

Although this did not yet definitively define the position of the city — during the Reformation, it would be allied again with Zürich and Bern, and only after the defeat of the Schmalkaldic League in 1548 its close connections to the Eidgenossenschaft would be finally severed — it was another factor contributing to the growing estrangement between the Swiss and the Swabians.

Above: Schmalkaldic League military treaty, 1536

The Schmalkaldic League was a military alliance of Lutheran princes within the Holy Roman Empire during the mid-16th century.

Although created for religious motives soon after the start of the Reformation, its members later came to have the intention that the League would replace the Holy Roman Empire as their focus of political allegiance.

While it was not the first alliance of its kind, unlike previous formations, the Schmalkaldic League had a substantial military to defend its political and religious interests.

It received its name from the town of Schmalkalden, Thuringia, Germany.

Above: Schmalkalden

The competition between Swiss (Reisläufer) and Swabian (Landsknechte) mercenaries, who both fought in armies throughout Europe, sometimes opposing each other on the battlefield, sometimes competing for contracts, intensified.

Above: Swiss mercenaries crossing the Alps

Above: Landsknechte, 1530

Contemporary chronicles agree in their reports that the Swiss, who were considered the best soldiers in Europe at the time after their victories in the Burgundian Wars (1474 – 1477), were subject to many taunts and abuses by the Landsknechte.

Above: Territories of the house of Valois-Burgundy during the reign of Charles the Bold (1433 – 1477) (r. 1467 – 1477)

They were called Kuhschweizer (Swiss cow herders) and ridiculed in other ways.

Such insults were neither given nor taken lightly, and frequently led to bloodshed.

Indeed, such incidents would contribute to prolong the Swabian War itself by triggering skirmishes and looting expeditions that the military commands of neither side had ever wanted or planned.

Above:  The first major battle of the Swabian War, Battle of Hard, Austria, 20 February 1499

A large attack of the Swabian League took place on 11 April 1499:

Swabian troops occupied and plundered some villages on the southern shore of the Bodensee, just south of Konstanz.

The expedition ended in a shameful defeat and open flight when the Swiss soldiers, who had their main camp just a few miles south at Schwaderloh, arrived and met the Swabians in the Battle of Schwaderloh.

The Swabians lost more than 1,000 soldiers – 130 from the city of Konstanz alone.

The Swiss captured their heavy equipment, including their artillery.

Above: Battle of Schwaderloh, 11 April 1499




The continued defeats of both Habsburg and Swabian armies made King Maximilian, who had hitherto been occupied in the Netherlands, travel to Konstanz and assume the leadership of the operations himself.

He declared an imperial ban over the Swiss Confederacy in an attempt to gain wider support for the operation amongst the German princes by declaring the conflict an “imperial war“.

However, this move had no success.

Above: Maximilian I (1459 – 1519)

The refusal of the military leaders of the Swabian League to withdraw troops from the northern front to send them to the Grisons as Maximilian had demanded made the King return to the Bodensee.

Above: Flag of Canton Grisons / Graubünden

The differences between the Swabians, who preferred to strike in the north, and the King, who still hoped to convince them to help him win the struggle in the Val Müstair, led to a pause in the hostilities.

Troops were assembled at Konstanz, but an attack did not occur.

Until July, nothing of significance happened along the whole front.

Above: Val Müstair

By mid-July, Maximilian and the Swabian leaders suddenly were under pressure from their own troops.

In the west, where there lay an army under the command of Count Heinrich von Fürstenberg, a large contingent of mercenaries from Flanders and many knights threatened to leave as they had not received their pay.

The foot soldiers of the Swabian troops also complained:

Most of them were peasants and preferred to go home and bring in the harvest.

Maximilian was forced to act.

An attack by sea across the Bodensee on Rheineck and Rorschach on 21 July 1499 was one of the few successful Swabian operations.

The small Swiss detachment was taken by surprise, the villages plundered and burnt.

Above: Rheineck, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Above: Rorschach, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

A much larger attack of an army of about 16,000 soldiers in the west on Dornach, however, met a quickly assembled but strong Swiss army.

In the Battle of Dornach on 22 July 1499, the Swabian and mercenary troops suffered a heavy defeat after a long and hard battle.

Their general Heinrich von Fürstenberg fell early in the fight, about 3,000 Swabian and 500 Swiss soldiers died, and the Swabians lost all of their artillery. 

Again.

Above: Battle of Dornach, Switzerland

A major problem for the Swiss was the lack of any unified command.

The cantonal contingents only took orders from their own leaders.

Complaints of insubordination were common.

The Swiss Diet had to adopt this resolution on 11 March 1499:

Every canton shall impress upon its soldiers that when the Confederates are under arms together, each one of them, whatever his canton, shall obey the officers of the others.

Above: Flag of modern Switzerland

The Swabian and Habsburg armies had suffered far higher human losses than the Swiss, and were also short on artillery, after repeatedly having lost their equipment to the Swiss.

The Swiss also had no desire to prolong the war further.

Above: Theatre of the Swabian War

Finally, Maximilian and the Swiss signed the Peace of Basel on 22 September 1499.

After the Swabian War (1499), in the Peace of Basel, the Duke of Milan ceded the sovereignty of Thurgau to the Swiss.

Above: Negotiations for the Peace of Basel in 1499 at the end of the Swabian War

This so angered the inhabitants of Konstanz that they burned down the Abbey of Kreuzlingen.

The city was compelled to rebuild the Abbey.

Above: Aftermath of the 3rd Kreuzlingen Abbey fire, 20 July 1963

On 17 April 1509, Abbot Peter I von Babenberg (1498 – 1545) was able to rededicate the new church.

Above: Interior of St. Ulrich, Kreuzlingen

During the Thirty Years’ War (1618 – 1648), despite the neutrality of the Swiss, a Swedish army entered Thurgau via Stein am Rhein, advanced on Kreuzlingen and besieged Konstanz unsuccessfully, losing several thousand men.

Above: Flag of Sweden

Above: Stein am Rhein

When on 2 October 1633, the troops left Kreuzlingen, the people of Konstanz blamed the monks for having supported the enemy and destroyed the Abbey a second time.

It was now decided that the monastery should not be rebuilt right up against the walls of Konstanz, but should be removed from it by not less than the distance of a cannon shot.

Above: Interior of St. Ulrich, Kreuzlingen

During the Protestant Reformation (1516 – 1648) in Switzerland, both the Catholic and emerging Reformed parties sought to swing the subject territories, such as Canton Thurgau, to their side.

Above: Religious map of Switzerland, 1536

In 1524, in an incident that resonated across Switzerland, local peasants occupied the Cloister of Ittingen in Thurgau, driving out the monks, destroying documents, and devastating the wine cellar.

Above: Ittingen Charterhouse

Between 1526 and 1531, most of Thurgau’s population adopted the new Reformed faith spreading from Zürich.

Zürich’s defeat in the War of Kappel (1531) ended Reformed predominance.

Instead, the First Peace of Kappel protected both Catholic and Reformed worship, though the provisions of the treaty generally favored the Catholics, who also made up a majority among the seven ruling cantons.

Religious tensions over Thurgau were an important background to the First War of Villmergen (1656), during which Zürich briefly occupied Thurgau.

Above: Kappel am Albis, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Kreuzlingen Cloister, 1633

At the beginning of the 19th century, today’s centre of Kreuzlingen was largely arable land, meadowland and vineyards. 

Around the monastery stood 13 houses.

With the reorganization of Europe, Kreuzlingen became a border region. 

The first customs house was built in 1818. 

The first steamboats that operated on the Bodensee from 1824 and the construction of the railway lines to Romanshorn (1871) and Etzwilen (1875) attracted trade and industry.

Above: Kreuzlingen, 1840

Above: Kreuzlingen Bahnhof (train station)

Until the First World War (1914 – 1918) Kreuzlingen was a kind of suburb of Konstanz. 

Industry in Kreuzlingen was also almost exclusively in the hands of German entrepreneurs. 

It was only after the border was closed during the War that Kreuzlingen became more independent.

Above: German – Swiss border (1914 – 1918)

During World War I (1914 – 1918) and World War II (1939 – 1945) Switzerland maintained armed neutrality, and was not invaded by its neighbors, in part because of its topography, much of which is mountainous.

Consequently, it was of considerable interest to belligerent states as the scene for diplomacy, espionage, and commerce, as well as being a safe haven for refugees.

Above: Physical map of Switzerland (in German)

In The War in the Air – an apocalyptic prediction of the coming global conflict, published in 1903, eleven years before the actual outbreak of war – H.G. Wells assumed that Switzerland would join the coming war and fight on the side of Germany.

Above: Herbert George Wells (1866 – 1946)

Wells is known to have visited Switzerland in 1903, a visit which inspired his book A Modern Utopia, and his assessment of Swiss inclinations might have been inspired by what he heard from Swiss people in that visit.

Switzerland maintained a state of armed neutrality during the First World War.

Above: Images of World War 1 (1914 – 1918)

However, with two of the Central Powers (Germany and Austria-Hungary) and two of the Entente Powers (France and Italy) all sharing borders and populations with Switzerland, neutrality proved difficult.

Above: Europe, 1914

Under the Schlieffen Plan, the German General Staff had been open to the possibility of trying to outflank the French fortifications by marching through Switzerland in violation of its neutrality, although the plan’s eventual executor Helmuth von Moltke the Younger selected Belgium instead due to Switzerland’s mountainous topography and the disorganized state of the Belgian Armed Forces.

Above: Alfred von Schlieffen (1833 – 1913)

Above: Helmuth von Moltke the Younger (1848 – 1916)

Above: Flag of Belgium

From December 1914 until the spring of 1918, Swiss troops were deployed in the Jura along the French border over concern that the trench war might spill into Switzerland.

Of lesser concern was the Italian border, but troops were also stationed in the Unterengadin region of Graubünden.

Above: Swiss officers’ barracks, Umbrail Pass, Swiss Italian border

While the German-speaking majority in Switzerland generally favored the Central Powers, the French- and, later, Italian-speaking populations sided with the Entente Powers, which would cause internal conflict in 1918.

Above: Linguistic map of Switzerland, 2016 – German (62.8%) (pink) / French (22.9%) (purple) / Italian (8.2%) (blue) / Romansh (0.5%) (yellow)

However, the country managed to keep out of the War, although it was blockaded by the Allies and therefore suffered some difficulties.

Nevertheless, because Switzerland was centrally located, neutral, and generally undamaged, the War allowed the growth of the Swiss banking industry

Above: Mont Cervin Palace, Zermatt, Switzerland – A hub of tourism, many private banks service the city and maintain underground bunkers and storage facilities for gold at the foothills of the Swiss Alps.

For the same reasons, Switzerland became a haven for foreign refugees and revolutionaries.

There were a number of Swiss neutrality scandals during the war, when certain people within Switzerland were found to have been favouring one side or the other.

One of the worst was the “two colonels” affair.

In February 1916, two senior Swiss intelligence officers were found to have been passing copies of intelligence reports and other sensitive material to the German and Austrian military attaches in Switzerland for nearly a year.

This included signals sent between foreign embassies in Switzerland and their home governments, which the Swiss had intercepted.

The two officers defended themselves by saying that no secret information had been given away, and that information had been received from the Central Powers in return.

Although they were sacked, they received no other punishment.

Above: Colonel Carl Egli

Above: Colonel Maurice de Wattenwyl

Being neutral, Switzerland was also a place where exiles could go.

Czech and Lithuanian national councils were established in Switzerland during the War.

Above: Flag of the Czech Republic

Above: Flag of Lithuania

In 1914, both these countries were part of a larger empire (Austria-Hungary and Russia respectively) and these national councils sought independence.

Above: Coat of arms of Austria – Hungary (1867 – 1915)

Above: Coat of arms of Imperial Russia (1883 – 1917)

King Constantine of Greece went into exile in Switzerland in June 1917.  

Above: Constantine I (1868 – 1923)

After the Great War, the Austrian Imperial family fled to Switzerland. 

Following the organization of the army in 1907 and military expansion in 1911, the Swiss Army consisted of about 250,000 men with an additional 200,000 in supporting roles.

Both European alliance-systems took the size of the Swiss military into account in the years prior to 1914, especially in the Schlieffen Plan.

Following the declarations of war in late July 1914, on 1 August 1914, Switzerland mobilized its army.

By 7 August the newly appointed general Ulrich Wille had about 220,000 men under his command.

By 11 August Wille had deployed much of the army along the Jura border with France, with smaller units deployed along the eastern and southern borders.

Above: Ulrich Wille (1848 – 1925)

This remained unchanged until May 1915 when Italy entered the war on the Entente side, at which point troops were deployed to the Unterengadin valley, Val Müstair and along the southern border.

Once it became clear that the Allies and the Central Powers would respect Swiss neutrality, the number of troops deployed began to drop.

After September 1914, some soldiers were released to return to their farms and to vital industries.

By November 1916 the Swiss had only 38,000 men in the army.

This number increased during the winter of 1916 – 1917 to over 100,000 as a result of a proposed French attack that would have crossed Switzerland.

When this attack failed to occur the army began to shrink again.

Because of widespread workers’ strikes, at the end of the War the Swiss army had shrunk to only 12,500 men.

During the War “belligerents” crossed the Swiss borders about 1,000 times, with some of these incidents occurring around the Dreisprachen Piz (Three Languages Peak), near the Stevio Pass.

Switzerland had an outpost and a hotel (which was destroyed as it was used by the Austrians) on the peak.

During the War, fierce battles were fought in the ice and snow of the area, with gunfire coming on to Swiss territory.

The three nations made an agreement not to fire over Swiss territory, which jutted out between Austria (to the north) and Italy (to the south).

Instead they could fire down the pass, as Swiss territory was around the peak.

In one incident, a Swiss soldier was killed at his outpost on Dreisprachen Piz by Italian gunfire.

Above: Stelvio Pass

During the fighting, Switzerland became a haven for many politicians, artists, pacifists, and thinkers.

Bern, Zürich and Geneva became centres of debate and discussion.

Above: Geneva

In Zürich, two very different anti-war groups, the Bolsheviks and the Dadaists, would bring lasting changes to the world.

Above: Zürich during WW1

The Bolsheviks were a faction of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party, centered around Vladimir Lenin.

Following the outbreak of the War, Lenin was stunned when the large Social Democratic parties of Europe (at that time predominantly Marxist in orientation) supported their various respective countries’ war efforts.

Lenin, believing that the peasants and workers of the proletariat were fighting for their class enemies, adopted the stance that what he described as an “imperialist war” ought to be turned into a civil war between the classes.

He left Austria for neutral Switzerland in 1914 following the outbreak of the War and remained active in Switzerland until 1917.

Following the 1917 February Revolution in Russia and the abdication of Tsar Nicholas II, he left Switzerland on a sealed train to Petrograd, where he would shortly lead the 1917 October Revolution in Russia.

Above: Vladimir Lenin (1870 – 1924)

Above: Nicholas II (1868 – 1918)

While the Dada art movement was also an anti-war organization, Dadaists used art to oppose all wars.

The founders of the movement had left Germany and Romania to escape the destruction of the War.

Above: Grand opening of the first Dada movement in Berlin, 5 June 1920

At the Cabaret Voltaire in Zürich they put on performances expressing their disgust with the War and with the interests that inspired it.

By some accounts Dada coalesced on 6 October 1916 at the Cabaret.

The artists used abstraction to fight against the social, political, and cultural ideas of that time that they believed had caused the War.

Dadaists viewed abstraction as the result of a lack of planning and of logical thought-processes.

When World War I ended in 1918, most of the Zürich Dadaists returned to their home countries, and some began Dada activities in other cities.

Above: Cabaret Voltaire, Zürich

In 1917, Switzerland’s neutrality came into question when the Grimm – Hoffmann Affair erupted. 

Robert Grimm, a Swiss socialist politician, travelled to Russia as an activist to negotiate a separate peace between Russia and Germany, in order to end the war on the Eastern Front in the interests of socialism and pacifism.

Misrepresenting himself as a diplomat and an actual representative of the Swiss government, he made progress but had to admit to fraud and return home when the Allies found out about the proposed peace deal.

Above: Robert Grimm (1881 – 1958)

The Allies were placated by the resignation of Arthur Hoffmann, the Swiss Federal Councillor who had supported Grimm but had not consulted his colleagues on the initiative.

Above: Arthur Hoffmann (1857 – 1927)

During the War, Switzerland accepted 68,000 British, French and German wounded prisoners of war (POWs) for recovery in mountain resorts.

To be transferred the wounded had to have a disability that would negate their further military service or have been interned over 18 months with deteriorating mental health.

The wounded were transferred from POW camps unable to cope with the number of wounded and sat out the war in Switzerland.

Above: German POWs arriving in Davos, Switzerland, 1916

The transfer was agreed between the warring powers and organised by the Red Cross.

Above: Logo of the Red Cross

In 1934, the Swiss Banking Act was passed.

Above: The federal law officially codified hundreds of years of banking secrecy in Switzerland. 
The law was announced in front of the Three Confederates statue to the Swiss public and international community in the Federal Palace of Switzerland during a 1934 special assembly.

This allowed for anonymous numbered bank accounts, in part to allow Germans (including Jews) to hide or protect their assets from seizure by the newly established Third Reich.

Above: Credit Suisse, Paradeplatz, Zürich – Many banks in Switzerland and other off-shore financial centres, offer the usage of numbered bank accounts for an extra degree of banking secrecy.

Above: Flag of the Third Reich / Nazi Germany (1935 – 1945)

In 1936, Wilhelm Gustloff was assassinated at Davos.

He was the head of the Nazi Party’s “Auslands-Organisation” in Switzerland.

Above: Wilhelm Gustloff (1895 – 1936)

The Swiss government refused to extradite the alleged assassin David Frankfurter to Germany.

Frankfurter was sentenced to 18 years in prison but was pardoned in 1946.

Above: (standing) David Frankfurter (1909 – 1982)

As European tension grew in the 1930s, the Swiss began to rethink their political and military situation.

The Social Democratic Party abandoned their revolutionary and anti-military stances, and soon the country began to rearm for war.

Above: Logo of the Social Democratic Party

Farmers, Traders and Citizens’ Party (BGB) Federal Councillor Rudolf Minger, predicting war would come in 1939, led the rebuilding of the Swiss Army.

Starting in 1936, he secured a larger defence budget and started a war bond system.

The army was restructured into smaller, better equipped divisions and boot camps for conscripts was extended to three months of instruction.

In 1937, a war economy cell was established.

Households were encouraged to keep a two-month supply of food and basic necessities.

Above: Rudolf Minger (1881 – 1955)

In 1938, Foreign Minister Giuseppe Motta withdrew Switzerland from the League of Nations, returning the country to its traditional form of neutrality.

Above: Giuseppe Motta (1871 – 1940)

Above: Flag of the League of Nations (1920 – 1946)

Actions were also taken to prove Switzerland’s independent national identity and unique culture from the surrounding Fascist powers.

This policy was known as Geistige Landesverteidigung (spiritual national defence).

Above: “On Guard” by Hans Brandenberger

In 1937, the government opened the Museum of Federal Charters.

Increased use of Swiss German coincided with a national referendum that made Romansh a national language in 1938, a move designed to counter Benito Mussolini’s attempts to incite Italian nationalism in the southern Grisons and Ticino cantons.

Above: Benito Mussolini (1883 – 1945)

In December of that year in a government address, Catholic Conservative Councillor Philipp Etter urged a defence of Swiss culture. 

Geistige Landesverteidigung subsequently exploded, being featured on stamps, in children’s books, and through official publications.

Above: Philip Etter (1891 – 1977)

At the outbreak of World War II in 1939, Switzerland immediately began to mobilize for a possible invasion.

The transition into wartime was smooth and caused less controversy than in 1914.

The country was fully mobilized in only three days.

Parliament quickly selected the 61-year-old career soldier Henri Guisan to be General.

By 3 September, 430,000 combat troops and 210,000 in support services, 10,000 of whom were women, had been mobilized, though most of these were sent home during the Phoney War.

At its highest point, 850,000 soldiers were mobilized.

Above: Henri Guisan

During the War, under the pan-Germanist and antidemocratic Neuordnung (New Order) doctrine, detailed invasion plans were drawn up by the German military command, such as Operation Tannenbaum (Christmas tree), but Switzerland was never attacked.

Switzerland was able to remain independent through a combination of military deterrence, economic concessions to Germany and good fortune as larger events during the War delayed an invasion.

Above: German plans to invade Switzerland

The New Order (Neuordnung) of Europe was the political order which Nazi Germany wanted to impose on the conquered areas under its dominion.

The establishment of the Neuordnung had already begun long before the start of World War II, but was publicly proclaimed by Adolf Hitler in 1941:

The year 1941 will be, I am convinced, the historical year of a great European New Order!

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

Among other things, it entailed the creation of a pan-German racial state, structured according to Nazi ideology, to ensure the existence of a perceived Aryan – Nordic master race, consolidate a massive territorial expansion into Central and Eastern Europe through colonization by German settlers, achieve the physical annihilation of Jews, Slavs, (especially Poles and Russians), Roma (“gypsies“), and others considered to be “unworthy of life“, as well as the extermination, expulsion or enslavement of most of the Slavic peoples and others regarded as “racially inferior“.

Nazi Germany’s desire for aggressive territorial expansionism was one of the most important causes of World War II.

Historians are still divided as to its ultimate goals, some believing that it was to be limited to Nazi German domination of Europe, while others maintain that it was a springboard for eventual world conquest and the establishment of a world government under German control.

The Führer gave expression to his unshakable conviction that the Reich will be the master of all Europe.

We shall yet have to engage in many fights, but these will undoubtedly lead to most wonderful victories.

From there on the way to world domination is practically certain.

Whoever dominates Europe will thereby assume the leadership of the world.

—  Joseph Goebbels, Reich Minister of Propaganda, 8 May 1943

Above: Joseph Goebbels (1897 – 1945)

Attempts by the Swiss Nazi Party to effect a unification with Germany failed, largely as a result of Switzerland’s sense of national identity and tradition of democracy and civil liberties.

The Swiss press criticized the Third Reich, often infuriating its leadership.

In turn, Berlin denounced Switzerland as a medieval remnant and its people renegade Germans.

Swiss military strategy was changed from one of static defence at the borders to a strategy of attrition and withdrawal to strong, well-stockpiled positions high in the Alps known as the National Redoubt.

This controversial strategy was essentially one of deterrence.

The idea was to render the cost of invading too high.

During an invasion, the Swiss Army would cede control of the economic heartland and population centres but retain control of crucial rail links and passes in the National Redoubt.

Above: Plan of the defence lines of the National Redoubt

Switzerland was a base for espionage by both sides in the conflict and often mediated communications between the Axis and Allied powers by serving as a protecting power.

In 1942, the United States Office of Strategic Services (OSS) was established in Bern.

Through the efforts of Allen Dulles, the first US intelligence service in Western Europe was created.

Above: Allen Dulles (1893 – 1969)

During the allied invasion of Italy, the OSS in Switzerland guided tactical efforts for the takeover of Salerno and the islands of Corsica and Sardinia.

Above: Logo of the OSS (1942 – 1945)

Above: Allied troops, Salerno, Italy, 1943

Despite the public and political attitudes in Switzerland, some higher-ranking officers within the Swiss Army had pro-Nazi sympathies: notably Colonel Arthur Fonjallaz and Colonel Eugen Bircher, who led the Schweizerischer Vaterländischer Verband.

Above: Arthur Fonjallaz (1875 – 1944)

Above: Eugen Bircher (1882 – 1956)

In Letters to Suzanne (French: Lettres à Suzanne, Lausanne, Switzerland, 1949), the Swiss journalist Léon Savary retrospectively denounced in this sense “the occult influence of Hitlerism on the Swiss people during the Second World War, which they were not conscious of being under“.

Above: Léon Savary (1895 – 1968)

Nazi Germany repeatedly violated Swiss airspace.

During the Battle of France in 1940, German aircraft violated Swiss airspace at least 197 times. 

Above: Images of the Battle of France (10 May – 25 June 1940)

In several air incidents, the Swiss shot down 11 Luftwaffe aircraft between 10 May and 17 June 1940, while suffering the loss of three of their own aircraft.

Germany protested diplomatically on 5 June and with a second note on 19 June which contained explicit threats. 

Hitler was especially furious when he saw that German equipment was used to shoot down German pilots.

He said they would respond “in another manner“. 

On 20 June, the Swiss air force was ordered to stop intercepting planes violating Swiss airspace.

Swiss fighters began instead to force intruding aircraft to land at Swiss airfields. 

Anti-aircraft units still operated.

Above: Logo of the Luftwaffe

Later, Hitler and Hermann Göring sent saboteurs to destroy Swiss airfields, but they were captured by Swiss troops before they could cause any damage. 

Skirmishes between German and Swiss troops took place on the northern border of Switzerland throughout the war.

Above: Hermann Goering (1893 – 1946)

Allied aircraft intruded on Swiss airspace throughout World War II.

In total, 6,304 Allied aircraft violated Swiss airspace during the war.

Some damaged Allied bombers returning from raids over Italy and Germany would intentionally violate Swiss airspace, preferring internment by the Swiss to becoming POWs.

Over a hundred Allied aircraft and their crews were interned in this manner.

They were subsequently put up in various ski resorts that had been emptied from lack of tourists due to the war and held until hostilities ended.

At least 940 American airmen attempted to escape into France after the Allied invasion of Normandy in June 1944 but Swiss authorities intercepted 183 internees.

Above: Landing at Omaha Beach, Normandy, France, 6 June 1944

Over 160 of these airmen were incarcerated in a Swiss prison camp known as Wauwilermoos, which was located near Lucerne (Luzern) and commanded by André Béguin, a pro-Nazi Swiss officer.

Above: Aerial photograph of the Wauwilermoos camp area in mid-1944

Above: André Béguin

The American internees remained in Wauwilermoos until November 1944 when the US State Department lodged protests against the Swiss government and eventually secured their release. 

Above: Wauwilermoos camp in late 1944

The American military attaché in Bern warned Marcel Pilet – Golaz, Swiss foreign minister in 1944, that “the mistreatment inflicted on US aviators could lead to ‘navigation errors’ during bombing raids over Germany“.

Above: Marcel Pilet – Golaz (1889 – 1958)

Switzerland, surrounded by Axis-controlled territory, also suffered from Allied bombings during the War – most notably from the accidental bombing of Schaffhausen by American aircraft on 1 April 1944.

Above: Schaffhausen, inscription on the bay window:
Destroyed by airmen 1 April 1944, rebuilt 1944/1945

It was mistaken for Ludwigshafen am Rhein, a German town 284 kilometres (176 mi) away.

Above: Ludwigshafen am Rhein, Germany

Forty people were killed and over fifty buildings destroyed, among them a group of small factories producing anti-aircraft shells, ball bearings and Bf 109 parts for Germany.

The bombing limited much of the leniency the Swiss had shown toward Allied airspace violations.

Eventually, the problem became so bad that they declared a zero-tolerance policy for violation by either Axis or Allied aircraft and authorized attacks on American aircraft.

Victims of these mistaken bombings were not limited to Swiss civilians, but included the often confused American aircrews, shot down by the Swiss fighters as well as several Swiss fighters shot down by American airmen.

In February 1945, 18 civilians were killed by Allied bombs dropped over Stein am Rhein, Vals and Rafz.

Above: Bombing of Stein am Rhein, 22 February 1945

Above: Bombing of Rafz, 22 February 1945

Arguably the most notorious incident came on 4 March 1945, when Basel and Zürich were accidentally bombed by American aircraft.

The attack on Basel’s railway station led to the destruction of a passenger train, but no casualties were reported.

Above: Basel Railway Station, 1938

A B-24 Liberator dropped its bomb load over Zürich, destroying two buildings and killing five civilians.

Above: Oberstrass, Zürich, 4 March 1945

The crew believed that they were attacking Freiburg im Breisgau in Germany.

Above: Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

As John Helmreich points out, the pilot and navigator, in choosing a target of opportunity, “missed the marshalling yard they were aiming for, missed the city they were aiming for, and even missed the country they were aiming for“.

The Swiss, although somewhat skeptical, reacted by treating these violations of their neutrality as “accidents“.

The United States was warned that single aircraft would be forced down and their crews would still be allowed to seek refuge, while bomber formations in violation of airspace would be intercepted.

While American politicians and diplomats tried to minimize the political damage caused by these incidents, others took a more hostile view.

Some senior commanders argued that as Switzerland was “full of German sympathizers“, it deserved to be bombed.

General Henry H. Arnold, Commanding General of the US Army Air Forces, even suggested that it was the Germans themselves who were flying captured Allied planes over Switzerland in an attempt to gain a propaganda victory.

Above: Henry H. Arnold (1886 – 1950)

From 1943 onwards Switzerland stopped American and British aircraft, mainly bombers, overflying Switzerland on nine occasions, six times by Swiss Air Force fighters and nine by flak. 

Thirty-six Allied airmen were killed.

On 1 October 1943 the first American bomber was shot down near Bad Ragaz, with only three men surviving.

Above: Main square, Bad Ragaz

The officers were interned in Davos and the airmen in Adelboden.

Above: Images of Davos

Above: Aerial view of Adelboden

The representative of the US military intelligence group based in Bern, Barnwell Legge (a US military attaché to Switzerland), instructed the soldiers not to flee, but most of them thought it to be a diplomatic joke and gave no regard to his request.

Above: Barnwell Legge (1891 – 1949)

As a neutral state bordering Germany, Switzerland was relatively easy to reach for refugees from the Nazis.

Switzerland’s refugee laws, especially with respect to Jews fleeing Germany, were strict and have caused controversy since the end of World War II.

From 1933 until 1944 asylum for refugees could only be granted to those who were under personal threat owing to their political activities only.

It did not include those who were under threat due to race, religion or ethnicity.

Above: The Star of David, a symbol of Judaism

On the basis of this definition, Switzerland granted asylum to only 644 people between 1933 and 1945.

Of these, 252 cases were admitted during the war.

All other refugees were admitted by the individual cantons and were granted different permits, including a “tolerance permit” that allowed them to live in the canton but not to work.

Over the course of the war, Switzerland interned 300,000 refugees.

Of these, 104,000 were foreign troops interned according to the Rights and Duties of Neutral Powers outlined in the Hague Conventions.

Above: Images of The Hague, Netherlands

The rest were foreign civilians and were either interned or granted tolerance or residence permits by the cantonal authorities.

Refugees were not allowed to hold jobs.

Of the refugees, 60,000 were civilians escaping persecution by the Nazis.

Of these 60,000, 27,000 were Jews.

Between 10,000 and 24,000 Jewish civilian refugees were refused entry.

These refugees were refused entry on the asserted claim of dwindling supplies.

Of those refused entry, a Swiss government representative said:

Our little lifeboat is full.

At the beginning of the war, Switzerland had a Jewish population of between 18,000 and 28,000 and a total population of about 4 million.

By the end of the war, there were over 115,000 refuge-seeking people of all categories in Switzerland, representing the maximum number of refugees at any one time.

Above: Entry into the Swiss Jewish Museum, Basel

Switzerland’s treatment of Jewish refugees has been criticized by scholars of the Holocaust.

In 1999 an international panel of historians declared that Switzerland was “guilty of acting as an accomplice to the Holocaust when it refused to accept many thousands of fleeing Jews, and instead sent them back to almost certain annihilation at the hands of the Nazis“.

Above: Selection of Hungarian Jews on the ramp at Auschwitz II – Birkenau in German-occupied Poland, around May 1944.
Jews were sent either to work or to the gas chamber.

Switzerland also acted as a refuge for Allied POWs who escaped, including those from Colditz.

Above: Colditz Castle, Germany

In 1939, the Service of Intellectual Assistance to Prisoners of War (SIAP) was created by the International Bureau of Education (IBE), a Geneva-based international organization dedicated to educational matters.

In collaboration with the Swiss Federal Council, who initially funded the project, and the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC), the SIAP provided over half a million books to prisoners of war during World War II, and organized educational opportunities and study groups in prison camps.

Switzerland’s trade was blockaded by both the Allies and by the Axis.

Each side openly exerted pressure on Switzerland not to trade with the other.

Economic cooperation and extension of credit to the Third Reich varied according to the perceived likelihood of invasion, and the availability of other trading partners.

Above: Map of participants in World War 2:
Dark Green: Allies before the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, including colonies and occupied countries 
Light Green: Allied countries that entered the war after the attack on Pearl Harbor
Blue: Axis powers, their colonies and allies 
Grey: Neutral countries during WW2
Dark green dots represent countries that initially were neutral but during the war were annexed by the USSR
Light green dots represent countries that later in the war changed from the Axis to the Allies Blue dots represent countries either being conquered by the Axis Powers, becoming puppets of those (Vichy France and several French colonies)

Concessions reached their zenith after a crucial rail link through Vichy France was severed in 1942, leaving Switzerland completely surrounded by the Axis.

Above: Emblem of Vichy France (1940 – 1944)

Switzerland relied on trade for half of its food and essentially all of its fuel.

However, the Swiss controlled vital trans-alpine rail tunnels between Germany and Italy and possessed considerable electrical generating capacity that was relatively safe from air attack.

Switzerland’s most important exports during the war were precision machine tools, watches, jewel bearings (used in bomb sights), electricity, and dairy products.

Until 1936, the Swiss franc was the only remaining major freely convertible currency in the world.

Both the Allies and the Germans sold large amounts of gold to the Swiss National Bank.

Between 1940 and 1945, the German Reichsbank sold 1.3 billion francs (approximately 18 billion francs adjusted for inflation to 2019) worth of gold to Swiss banks in exchange for Swiss francs and other foreign currency, which were used to buy strategically important raw materials like tungsten and oil from neutral countries.

Hundreds of millions of francs’ worth of this gold was monetary gold plundered from the central banks of occupied countries.

A total of 581,000 francs’ worth of “Melmer” gold taken from Holocaust victims in eastern Europe was sold to Swiss banks.

Above: Logo of the Reichsbank (1876 – 1945)

In the 1990s, a controversy over a class action lawsuit brought in Brooklyn, New York, over Jewish assets in Holocaust era bank accounts prompted the Swiss government to commission the most recent and authoritative study of Switzerland’s interaction with the Nazi regime.

The final report by this independent panel of international scholars, known as the Bergier Commission,was issued in 2002 and also documented Switzerland’s role as a major hub for the sale and transfer of Nazi-looted art during the Second World War.

Above: Jean François Bergier (1931 – 2009)

Under pressure from the Allies, in December 1943 quotas were imposed on the importation and exportation of certain goods and foodstuffs and in October 1944 sales of munitions were halted.

However, the transit of goods by railway between Germany, Italy and occupied France continued.

North–South transit trade across Switzerland increased from 2.5 million tons before the war to nearly 6 million tons per year.

No troops or “war goods” were supposed to be transshipped.

Switzerland was concerned that Germany would cease the supply of the coal it required if it blocked coal shipments to Italy while the Allies, despite some plans to do so, took no action as they wanted to maintain good relations with Switzerland.

Between 1939 and 1945 Germany exported 10,267,000 tons of coal to Switzerland.

In 1943 these imports supplied 41% of Swiss energy requirements.

In the same period Switzerland sold electric power to Germany equivalent to 6,077,000 tons of coal.

Above: Swiss exports of arms, ammunition, and fuses (thousands of CHF) (1940 – 1944)

Swiss neutrality is one of the main principles of Switzerland’s foreign policy which dictates that Switzerland is not to be involved in armed or political conflicts between other states.

This policy is self-imposed and designed to ensure external security and promote peace.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Switzerland has the oldest policy of military neutrality in the world. 

It has not participated in a foreign war since its neutrality was established by the Treaty of Paris in 1815.

Above: Paris, France

Although the European powers (Austria, France, the United Kingdom, Portugal, Prussia, Russia, Spain and Sweden) agreed at the Congress of Vienna (Wien) in May 1815 that Switzerland should be neutral, final ratification was delayed until after Napoleon Bonaparte was defeated so that some coalition forces Reformation could invade France via Swiss territory.

Above: Images of Wien (Vienna), Österreich (Austria)

Above: Napoleon Bonaparte (1769 – 1821)

The country has a history of armed neutrality going back to the Reformation.

It has not been in a state of war internationally since 1815 and did not join the United Nations until 2002. 

Above: Flag of the United Nations

It pursues an active foreign policy and is frequently involved in peace-building processes around the world.

Above: The Matterhorn, Zermatt, Switzerland

According to Swiss President Ignazio Cassis in 2022 during a World Economic Forum (WEF) speech, the laws of neutrality for Switzerland are based on the Hague agreement principles which include:

  • no participation in wars
  • international cooperation but no membership in any military alliance
  • no provision of troops or weapons to warring parties
  • no granting of transition rights 

Above: Ignazio Cassis

The beginnings of Swiss neutrality can be dated back to the defeat of the Old Swiss Confederacy at the Battle of Marignano in September 1515, or the peace treaty the Swiss Confederacy signed with France on 12 November 1516.

Prior to this, the Swiss Confederacy had an expansionist foreign policy.

Above: François I orders his troops to stop pursuing the Swiss, Marignano, Italy, 14 September 1515

The Peace of Westphalia in 1648 was another important step in the development of Switzerland’s neutrality.

Other countries were disallowed from passing through Swiss territory.

The Confederation became legally independent from the Holy Roman Empire, even though it had been independent from the Empire de facto since 1499.

Above: City Hall, Münster, Germany – site of the signing of the Treaty of Westphalia, 24 October 1648

The 1798 invasion of Switzerland by the French First Republic culminated in the creation of a satellite state called the Helvetic Republic.

While the 1798 Swiss constitution and the 1803 Act of Mediation stated that France would protect Swiss independence and neutrality, these promises were not kept. 

With the latter act, Switzerland signed a defensive alliance treaty with France.

Above: Flag of the Helvetic Republic (Switzerland) (1798 – 1803)

During the Restoration, the Swiss Confederation’s constitution and the Treaty of Paris’s Act on the Neutrality of Switzerland affirmed Swiss neutrality.

Above: Restoration Switzerland, 1815

The dating of neutrality to 1516 is disputed by modern historians.

Prior to 1895, no historian referenced the Battle of Marignano as the beginning of neutrality.

The later backdating has to be seen in light of threats by several major powers in 1889 to rescind the neutrality granted to Switzerland in 1815.

A publication by Paul Schweizer, titled Geschichte der schweizerischen Neutralität (History of Swiss Neutrality) attempted to show that Swiss neutrality wasn’t granted by other nations, but a decision they took themselves and thus couldn’t be rescinded by others.

The later publication of the same name by Edgar Bonjour, published between 1946 and 1975, expanded on this thesis.

Following World War II, Switzerland began taking a more active role in humanitarian activities.

It joined the United Nations after a March 2002 referendum.

Ten years after Switzerland joined the UN, in recorded votes in the UN General Assembly, Switzerland occupied a middle position, siding from time to time with member states like the United States and Israel, but at other times with countries like China.

In the UN Human Rights Council Switzerland sided much more with Western countries and against countries like China and Russia.

Above: Members of the United Nations

Switzerland participated in the development of the International Code of Conduct for Private Security Service Providers, intended as an oversight mechanism of private security providers.

In September 2015, a “Federal Act on Private Security Services provided Abroad” was introduced, in order to “preserve Swiss neutrality“, as stated in its first article. 

It requires Switzerland-based private security companies to declare all operations conducted abroad, and to adhere to the Code.

Moreover, it states that no physical or moral person falling under this law can participate directly — or indirectly through the offer of private security services — in any hostilities abroad. 

In 2016, the Section of Private Security Services (SPSS), an organ of the Federal Department of Foreign Affairs in charge of the procedures defined by the new law, has received 300 approval requests.

Above: Logo of the International Code of Conduct Association

In 2011, Switzerland registered as a candidate for a seat on the UN Security Council in 2023 – 2024.

In a 2015 report requested by Parliament, the government stated that a Swiss seat on the Security Council would be “fully compatible with the principles of neutrality and with Switzerland’s neutrality policy“.

Opponents of the project, such as former ambassador Paul Widmer, consider that this seat would “put its [Switzerland] neutrality at risk“.

Above: UN Security Council Chamber, UN Headquarters, New York City, USA

A 2018 survey found that 95% of Swiss were in favor of maintaining neutrality.

In 2022, Switzerland imposed sanctions against Russia in response to the Russian invasion of Ukraine.

While Switzerland follows defined rules to remain neutral, it imposed sanctions for this “serious violation of the most fundamental norms of international law within the scope of its political room for manoeuvre“.

Above: Russian invasion of Ukraine as of 15 June 2022

Above: Flag of Russia

Above: Flag of Ukraine

According to Federal Councilor Viola Amherd, Switzerland will not allow direct shipments of arms to the war zone from or through its territory.

Above: Viola Amherd

Irrespective of the actual laws governing a neutral country, many media outlets still labelled this as a break with 500 years of Swiss neutrality.

In February 2022, Switzerland further adopted the sanctioning of Russia by the European Union and froze many Russian bank accounts.

Above: Flag of the European Union

Analysts said the move would affect the Swiss economy.

Above: Zürich – the economic centre of Switzerland

In April 2022, the Federal Department of Economic Affairs vetoed Germany’s request to re-export Swiss ammunition to Ukraine on the basis of Swiss neutrality. 

Above: Federal Palace of Switzerland, Bern

The defence ministry of Switzerland, initiated a report in May 2022 analyzing various military options, including increased cooperation and joint military exercises with NATO.

A public opinion poll from March 2022 found that 27% of those surveyed supported Switzerland joining NATO, while 67% were opposed.

Another from May 2022 indicated 33% of Swiss supported NATO membership for Switzerland.

56% supported increased ties with NATO.

Above: Logo of NATO (North Atlantic Treaty Organization)

Above: (in green) NATO members

Swiss neutrality has been questioned at times, notably regarding Switzerland’s role during the Second World War and the International Committee of the Red Cross, the looted Nazi gold (and later during Operation Gladio), its economic ties to the apartheid regime in South Africa, and more recently in the Crypto AG espionage case.

Above: Nazi gold

Above: Flag of South Africa

Operation Gladio is the codename for clandestine “stay behind” operations of armed resistance that were organized by the Western Union (WU)(1948 – 1954), and subsequently by NATO and the CIA, in collaboration with several European intelligence agencies.

Above: Flag of the Western Union (France, the UK, Belgium, Luxembourg and the Netherlands)

The operation was designed for a potential Warsaw Pact invasion and conquest of Europe.

Above: Logo of the Warsaw Pact (1955 – 1991)

Above: (in green) Members of the Warsaw Pact

Although Gladio specifically refers to the Italian branch of the NATO stay-behind organizations, “Operation Gladio” is used as an informal name for all of them.

Stay-behind operations were prepared in many NATO member countries, and some neutral countries.

Above: Flag of Italy

During the Cold War, some anti-Communist armed groups engaged in the harassment of left wing parties, torture, terrorist attacks, and massacres in countries such as Italy.

Above: The Cold War – (in blue) NATO versus (in red) Warsaw Pact – (1949 – 1990)

The role of the CIA and other intelligence organisations in Gladio — the extent of its activities during the Cold War era and any responsibility for terrorist attacks perpetrated in Italy during the “Years of Lead” (1968 – 1988) — is the subject of debate.

Above: Aftermath of the bombing at the Bologna railway station in August 1980 which killed 85 people, the deadliest event during the Years of Lead

In 1990, the European Parliament adopted a resolution alleging that military secret services in certain member states were involved in serious terrorism and crime, whether or not their superiors were aware.

The resolution also urged investigations by the judiciaries of the countries in which those armies operated, so that their modus operandi and actual extension would be revealed.

To date, only Italy, Switzerland and Belgium have had parliamentary inquiries into the matter.

The three inquiries reached differing conclusions as regarded different countries. 

Above: Logo of the European Parliament

Guido Salvini, a judge who worked in the Italian Massacres Commission, concluded that some right-wing terrorist organizations of the Years of Lead – La Fenice, National Vanguard and Ordine Nuovo – were the trench troops of a secret army, remotely controlled by exponents of the Italian state apparatus and linked to the CIA.

Salvini said that the CIA encouraged them to commit atrocities. 

Above: Guido Salvini

The Swiss inquiry found that British intelligence secretly cooperated with their army in an operation named P-26 and provided training in combat, communications, and sabotage.

It also discovered that P-26 not only would organize resistance in case of a Soviet invasion, but would also become active should the left succeed in achieving a parliamentary majority. 

Above: Carlo Schmid-Sutter, senator leading the Swiss inquiry

The Belgian inquiry could find no conclusive information on their army.

No links between them and terrorist attacks were found, and the inquiry noted that the Belgian secret services refused to provide the identity of agents, which could have eliminated all doubts. 

Above: Logo of the Belgian Secret Service

A 2000 Italian parliamentary report from the left wing coalition Gruppo Democratici di Sinistra l’Ulivo reported that terrorist massacres and bombings had been organised or promoted or supported by men inside Italian state institutions who were linked to American intelligence.

Above: Logo of the Olive Tree Coalition

The report also said the United States was guilty of promoting the strategy of terrorism. 

Above: Flag of the United States of America

Operation Gladio is also suspected to have been activated to counter existing left-wing parliamentary majorities in Europe.

The US State Department published a communiqué in January 2006 that stated claims the United States ordered, supported, or authorized terrorism by stay-behind units, and US-sponsored “false flag” operations are rehashed former Soviet disinformation based on documents that the Soviets forged.

Above: Flag of the Soviet Union (1922 – 1991)

The word gladio is the Italian form of gladius, a type of Roman short sword.

Above: Roman gladius

Crypto AG was a Swiss company specialising in communications and information security founded by Boris Hagelin in 1952.

The company was secretly purchased for US $5.75 million and jointly owned by the American CIA and West German Federal Intelligence Service (BND) from 1970 until about 1993, with the CIA continuing as sole owner until about 2018.

Above: Logo of the German Secret Service

The mission of breaking encrypted communication using a secretly owned company was known as “Operation Rubikon“.

Above: Operation Rubikon –
(dark green) Spying countries / (light green) Knowing countries / (red) Nations spied upon

With headquarters in Steinhausen, the company was a long-established manufacturer of encryption machines and a wide variety of cipher devices.

Above: Steinhausen, Canton Zug, Switzerland

The company had about 230 employees, had offices in Abidjan, Abu Dhabi, Buenos Aires, Kuala Lumpur, Muscat, Selsdon and Steinhausen, and did business throughout the world.

Above: Images of Abidjian, Ivory Coast

Above: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates

Above: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Above: Kuala Lumpar (KL), Malaysia

Above: Muscat, Oman

Above: Selsdon, London, England

The owners of Crypto AG were unknown, supposedly even to the managers of the firm.

They held their ownership through bearer shares.

The company has been criticized for selling backdoored products to benefit the American, British and German national signals intelligence agencies, the National Security Agency (NSA), the Government Communications Headquarters (GCHQ) and the BND, respectively.

Above: British Intelligence

On 11 February 2020, the Washington Post, ZDF and SRF revealed that Crypto AG was secretly owned by the CIA in a highly classified partnership with West German intelligence, and the spy agencies could easily break the codes used to send encrypted messages.

Above: German TV broadcaster Zweites Deutsches Fernsehen (2nd German Television)

Above: Logo of Swiss Radio and TV

The operation was known first by the code name “Thesaurus” and later “Rubicon“. 

According to a Swiss parliamentary investigation:

Swiss intelligence services were aware of and benefited from the Zug-based firm Crypto AG’s involvement in the US-led spying.”

Above: Swiss Defense Ministry, home of the Swiss Federal Intelligence Service, Bern

This is neutrality?

Honestly, my (albeit, amateur) opinion is that after the Swiss learned that waging war is more expensive than making wages from war, Swiss allegiance is as predictable as the direction of an airport’s wind sock – everything depends on which way the winds of change are blowing and what can generate the most profit.

Granted that war is truly something to be avoided, but there are times in the affairs of men that action is needed even if that action may mean that your side might lose.

I view the Switzerland of today no differently than the Switzerland of yesterday:

Mercantile, mercenary, Machiavellian in its machinations.

Above: Niccolò Machiavelli (1469 – 1527)

How the conduct and conscience of a nation connect with Thurgau’s second city is reflected in the weather vane direction switch that Kreuzlingen has showed over the decade when I was a resident of nearby Landschlacht.

It seemed almost on a weekly basis that either the Thurgauer Zeitung, the Kreuzlinger Nachrichten or the Kreuzlinger Zeitung would write editorials complaining vehemently how the region was being invaded and dominated by Germans and other foreigners buying lakeside property and dominating local business in much the same manner as occurred before World War 1.

Then the coronavirus struck and the border between Kreuzlingen and Konstanz was sealed.

Suddenly, Kreuzlingers were singing a different tune – how wonderful the Germans were, how beneficial the open border was for both nations, how eager everyone was for international trade and relations to resume.

Above: Swiss – German border closed during the coronavirus pandemic

Say what one will about the Germans, but at least they, rightly or wrongly, seem far more honest and steadfast and transparent than their Swiss counterparts.

Above: The border between Germany (north) and Switzerland (south)

The fact that Kreuzlingen Abbey was deliberately torched twice suggests that distrusting the Swiss was not unique to the times nor to the residents of Konstanz.

Above: Basilica of St. Ulrich and St. Afra, Kreuzlingen

Kreuzlingen invariably reminds me of Gatineau, Québec, across the Ottawa River from Ottawa, Ontario, Canada’s federal capital.

Gatineau definitely benefits from Ottawa as a major employer of its residents and yet often the Québec nationalist sentiments flow more strongly through Gatineau thought than the River that separates the two cities.

Above: Gatineau, Québec, Canada

Kreuzlingen has a population (as of December 2020) of 22,390.

As of 2008, 48.1% of the population are foreign nationals. 

Over the last 10 years (1997 – 2007) the population has changed at a rate of 2.2%.

Most of the population (as of 2000) speaks German (79.7%), Italian (5.2%) and Albanian (3.8%).

In all my visits to Kreuzlingen I have heard and spoken only German.

Above: Kreuzlingen

At first glance the casual observer might wonder why the Germans would move to Kreuzlingen when almost everything in Switzerland is far more expensive than is found in Germany.

But it seems for many professions working conditions are better in the Confederation than in the Republic.

This was the case for my wife’s profession.

The opposite was true for mine.

I reckon the next question should be whether Kreuzlingen is worth visiting at all.

Here is what Kreuzlingen has to offer the tourist:

  • Five churches:

Above: St. Peter’s, Kurzrickenbach, Kreuzlingen

Above: Holy Cross Chapel, Bernrain, Kreuzlingen

Above: St. Ulrich and St. Afra Church (includes a museum), Kreuzlingen

Above: Evangelical Church, Egelshofen, Kreuzlingen

Above: St. Stephen Roman Catholic Church, Kreuzlingen

  • Ten castles:

Above: Ebersberg Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Brunegg Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Girsberg Castle

Above: Römerburg Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Gaissberg Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Seeburg Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Bernegg Castle, Emmishofen, Kreuzlingen

Above: Irsee Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Felsenburg Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Felsenschlössli Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Rosenegg Castle and Museum, Kreuzlingen

  • Museums:

Above: Maritime Museum (Seemuseum), Kreuzlingen

Above: Border exhibit, Rosenegg Museum, Kreuzlingen

Above: Dolls, Puppenmuseum, Schloss Girsberg, Kreuzlingen

  • Two Stölpersteine (stumbling blocks) found on Schläferstrasse in memory of those who were persecuted by the Nationalist Socialist Party

At Schäflerstrasse 11:

Ernst Bärtschi (1903 – 1983) was born in Tuttlingen, Germany. 

He was a Swiss citizen, like his father, a shoemaker from Dulliken in canton Solothurn, who worked in Germany building the Black Forest Railway and married a woman from Tuttlingen.

Ernst Bärtschi and his German friends Karl Durst and Andreas Fleig smuggled political pamphlets and brochures from 1933 onwards. 

Later he helped countless emigrants to flee to Switzerland. 

In 1938, he and his comrades-in-arms fell into a Gestapo trap and were sentenced to 13 years in prison. 

Shortly before the end of the war he was liberated by the Americans.

Bärtschi died in Scherzingen in canton Thurgau.

At Schäflerstrasse 7:

Andreas Fleig (1884 – 1971) was born in Sulz an der Lahr, Germany. 

His parents were the carpenter Nikolaus Fleig and his wife Elisabeth. 

He had several siblings and also learned the carpenter’s trade. 

He moved to Konstanz, joined the German Woodworkers’ Association in 1904 and was a member of the SPD from 1910 to 1914. 

In 1912 he moved to the Thurgau community of Kreuzlingen and worked for Jonasch & Cie, which manufactured seating furniture. 

He married Wilhelmine Friedricke née Bleich and the couple had one son, Karl Andreas. 

During the First World War he served in the German army from 1915 to 1918, but did not return to the troops from a home leave in 1918 and stayed in Switzerland. 

In 1928, he bought a small house at Schäflerstrasse 7 in Kreuzlingen for around 15,000 francs. 

A local councilor described him as a:

Swabian of real buck and grain. 

Efficient at work and helpful in life.»

Fleig was a declared opponent of National Socialism and kept in touch with trade unionists and social democrats. 

As early as 1933 he was wanted by the Gestapo.

Together with his work colleagues and friends Josef Anselm and Karl Durst from Konstanz and his neighbor, the aluminum worker Hermann Ernst Bärtschi, he smuggled political brochures and magazines – such as Der Funke, afa Nachrichten or the Neue Vorwärts  – from Switzerland to Germany. 

He also worked with his friends as a courier for emigrant mail from Switzerland to Germany and also obtained border permits, which he used to steer persecuted officials of the German labour movement across the border. 

For example, he saved the SPD Reichstag deputy Hans Unterleitner, who was interned in the Dachau concentration camp from 1933 to 1935, and his family. 

When on 8 May 1938, together with Bärtschi and Durst, he tried to bring the persecuted trade union functionary Hans Lutz across the border, all three escape helpers were arrested. 

Under torture, Lutz had revealed all the names of the Funkentruppe

Also arrested were Josef Anselm, Paulina Gutjahr and Bruno W. Schlegel, the other members of the resistance group. 

On 12 October 1938, Fleig was sentenced to 15 years in prison by the People’s Court in Berlin.

On 7 November 1938, he was transferred to the Ludwigsburg penitentiary, where he remained imprisoned until 5 April 1945. 

As the Americans approached, he was transferred to the Landsberg / Lech penitentiary, where he was released on 28 May 1945. 

During his imprisonment, Fleig suffered permanent damage to his health, heart muscle weakness, neuralgic-rheumatic complaints and a painful ear condition.

In 1945 Fleig first went to Konstanz, then to his hometown of Sulz, and finally to Dübendorf near Zürich, where his son worked. 

He later moved to Esslingen am Neckar near Stuttgart and then back to his hometown of Sulz in the mid-1950s. 

His application for compensation was answered by the Baden Ministry of Finance on 28 July 1951 as follows:

The application has been rejected. 

This also eliminates recognition as a victim of National Socialism”. 

He was only able to enforce his claims with the help of a lawyer. 

Andreas Fleig died in Sulz an der Lahr. 

Every summer, an international dance festival, the Bodensee Salsa Festival, takes place in the Dreispitz sports and culture center with salsa, kizomba , bachata, hip-hop, tango and dance workshops.

Theatrical performances take place irregularly in the “Theater an der Grenz“, near the Seeburg and on the Girsberg.

Every year on the second weekend in August, together with the German city of Konstanz, the Fantastical / Seenachtfest, with fireworks, takes place, attracting 50,000 visitors from the region (and far beyond).

In 2002, Switzerland’s second planetarium went into operation with the Kreuzlingen Planetarium, built right next to the observatory that opened in 1976 above the city. 

Two planet paths, each six kilometers long, end at the Planetarium. 

The Planet Trail South comes from the Siegershausen train station, the Planet Trail North from the Bodensee Therme Konstanz.

FC Kreuzlingen, founded in 1905, has been playing in the 5th highest division in football, the 2nd interregional league, since 2013. 

The stadium on Konstanzerstrasse (“borderland stadium“), (1931 – 1959) was awarded the fan prize (football memory of the year) by the German Academy for Football Culture in 2017. 

Since 2019, AS Calcio Kreuzlingen has also played interregionally in the 2nd division, both Kreuzlingen clubs are in the same group. 

AS Calcio plays their home games at the Döbeli sports facility.

The local swimming club (founded 1926) offers swimming, swimming school and water polo. 

Ice hockey has been played by the EHC Kreuzlingen – Konstanz team since 1956. 

The EHC plays in the Bodensee Arena, which was the venue for the 2011 MLP Nations Cup.

Monday night in-line skating has been held in Kreuzlingen since 2005, weather permitting.

The ITF Kreuzlingen has hosted an international tennis tournament for women every year since 2013.

In 2006, the Dreispitz sports and cultural centre was opened northeast of Bärenplatz.

Now clearly there have been more fine individuals resident or native Kreuzlingers than the aforementioned Bärtschi and Flieg (and as well some scoundrels of notoriety):

Above: Coat of arms of Kreuzlingen

August Gremli (1833 – 1899), son of the district doctor Johannes Gremli, studied medicine in Berlin and München (Munich) and then completed an apprenticeship as a pharmacist in Karlsruhe. 

From 1876 he worked as curator in Émile Burnat’s herbarium in Nant near Vevey. 

From 1899 he lived again in Kreuzlingen.

He published several works on flora in Switzerland, his main work Exkursionsflora der Schweiz in 1867. 

With Burnat he published several essays on the flora of the Maritime Alps.

Together with the pharmacist Johannes Schalch, Gremli discovered the varied flora, the roses and the orchids of the Wangental near Schaffhausen.

I read of men like Gremli and I find myself wondering:

What must it be like to see nature in the manner that naturalists and botanists do?

Rarely am I envious of those I call “friend” but my Irish pal Hugh Morris, presently lecturing in Vienna (Wien), is one such individual who can see trees and plants in this way.

A mere stroll with Hugh is an education in itself.

Above: Hugh Morris, the man, the legend

Enrique Conrado Rébsamen ( Heinrich Konrad Rebsamen) (1857 – 1904) was a Swiss-Mexican educator whose reforms and ideas significantly influenced the educational system in Mexico.

Enrique Conrado Rébsamen was born in Kreuzlingen as the eldest child of the couple Johann Ulrich and Katharina Rebsamen (née Egloff). 

As a farmer’s son, his father attended the teacher training college in Küsnacht and, after studying theology and spending time abroad, worked from 1854 to 1897 as director of the teacher training college in Kreuzlingen. 

Above: Küsnacht, 1905

At the same time, Johann Ulrich served as secondary school inspector and educational councilor, between 1866 and 1874 as the editor of Bildung Schweiz (the Swiss teachers’ newspaper), and until 1894 as a member of the central committee of the Swiss Teachers’ Association. 

Throughout his life, Johann Ulrich implemented the ideas of Ignaz Thomas Scherr and his concept of scientific teacher training.

As a teacher myself, I cannot resist speaking of Ignaz Scherr…..

Above: Ignaz Thomas Scherr

Ignaz Thomas Scherr (1801 – 1870) was a Swiss pedagogue, pioneer of the Zürich elementary school system and author of numerous textbooks and pedagogical writings.

Thomas Scherr was the son of the teacher Franz Scherr and his wife Cäcilie, née Nüding. 

Thomas also became a teacher and after 1818 devoted himself particularly to the education of the deaf. 

After a short period as an elementary teacher, Scherr was employed in Gmünd in 1821 as a teacher for the deaf and blind. 

Above: Schwäbisch Gmund, Germany

In 1825 he was called to Zürich to take over the management of the institute for the blind there. 

Scherr founded an institution for the deaf and mute and connected it with the Institute for the Blind. 

Both institutions showed significant successes under his leadership. 

In addition to his work as director and teacher at both institutes, Scherr dealt with general pedagogical questions and with the reform of the Zürich elementary school system.

Textbooks and syllabuses, which he published in 1830, made his name more widely known. 

After converting to the Reformed faith and marrying a woman from Zürich, Scherr was naturalized in 1831. 

In the same year he was elected to the canton’s educational council, where he took part in elementary school reform. 

The drafting of a new elementary school law was entrusted to him.

Above: Coat of arms of Zürich

In 1832, the post of director of the newly founded teachers’ college in Küsnacht was advertised. 

The 31-year-old Scherr was elected for life by the Zürich government council by twelve votes to one. 

Scherr had not applied. 

He feared, unjustly, that he had messed things up with the Küsnachters because he had previously advocated Greifensee as the seat of the seminary. 

Scherr and his family moved into an apartment in the “zur Traube” building on Wiltisgasse. 

Space for teacher training was found in the Seehof building (today the CG Jung Institute) on the Zürichsee (Lake Zürich).

Two rooms were available on the ground floor and two on the first floor for teaching.

Above: Seehof, Küsnacht

The pedagogical movement quickly spread across the entire canton. 

Scherr developed an activity that can hardly be understood today. 

He taught most of the subjects himself, took care of the management business, offered further training courses for teachers, wrote pedagogical writings, visited village schools throughout the canton on foot and was also still a member of the cantonal education council.

Above: Scherr (45) –
The elementary school should educate the children of all classes according to the same principles as mentally active, civilly useful and morally religious people.

Scherr writes:

The life and hustle and bustle as it currently prevails in Küsnacht cannot be described. 

Not a day goes by without inquisitive guests arriving.

Every day that a village school is on vacation, the teacher rushes to the seminary to get instruction. 

I could give 6-10 hours of teaching during the day, then continue at night on organizational work and pedagogical writings until the next day’s time, and in the morning bright and happy begin the cycle again. 

Or I could hurry on foot to the meeting of the Education Council in Zurich late in the evening in stormy and rainy weather and, after a laborious journey home, correct the written essay. 

Those were the best days of my life. 

I felt the power and strength of embracing a creative idea.»

The Küsnacht seminar was considered the most exemplary and best conducted in all of Switzerland. 

In the spring of 1834, the seminary moved to the main building of the former commandery of the Johanniter (Order of St. John), which had become vacant the year before. 

Scherr was able to purchase the “Seehof” privately in 1837.

Above: Flag of the Order of St. John

In his position as seminar director, Scherr led and reformed almost completely and alone the elementary school system under his control. 

As much as he was successful and admired on the one hand, he was an enemy to the conservatives on the other.

The clergy, in particular, who had hitherto controlled the school, saw their authority threatened. 

They denounced him as:

A prophet endangering the true faith, whose liberal-tinged Christianity was being spread across the country by his disciples, and whose new teaching materials could herald the new unbelief“. 

The threats against Scherr are said to have become so severe that when he hurried home on foot late at night from the Education Council meeting in Zürich, he was accompanied by an escort of strong seminarians. 

Above: Küsnacht High School

Scherr also encountered resistance from manufacturer circles because of a planned ban on night work for children.

On his visits to the village schools he had seen how many children slept during class because they had to work six hours a night in the factory. 

In response to Scherr’s report, the governing council actually issued an ordinance against the abuse of children in factory work. 

Scherr represented his pedagogical views in the “Pedagogical Observer” that he published.

Above: Newsboys, New York City, 23 February 1908

After the victory of the reactionary circles in the Züriputsch (a reactionary coup by the government of Canton Zürich) on 6 September 1839, Scherr fell victim to the reshuffles in the most important authorities, in which conservatives took seats. 

Above: Fighting on the parade ground between government troops and rebellious peasants during the 
Zürich Putsch in 1839.

Although elected for life, he was suspended from office in the summer of 1839 and given a third of his salary. 

By 1 November 1839, he had to vacate his office.

On 1 May 1840, he was dismissed. 

In an appeal to the government council against his unlawful dismissal, he was defeated.

On his dismissal, Scherr wrote:

«What have I done wrong?

I wanted to raise the elementary school to a free, independent institution, but the hatred of many clergymen punished me for that.

I wanted an elementary school that would produce a noble, reasonable people, so the aristocrats hate me.

I wanted to give even the poorest child a way to school and a happy youth, which is why the selfishness of some factory owners and the rudeness of unscrupulous parents haunt me.»

On 17 August 1840, a second pompous opening ceremony took place in Küsnacht, at which Scherr’s merits were not mentioned at all. 

Instead, there were protestations to the conservatives and to the church.

Above: My observations, aspirations and destinies,1840

In 1842 Scherr sold his “Seehof” to the Canton, which enabled him to buy the “Obere Hochstrasse” estate in Emmishofen near Kreuzlingen in Canton Thurgau.

Above: Emmishofen

In 1843, together with his younger brother Johann, he opened a private institute for the deaf and mute on the “Sonnenberg” in Winterthur, which he had bought in 1840 and as a preparatory college for boys’ college studies. 

Since the conditions in the canton of Zürich had meanwhile changed in favour of a freer teaching system, Scherr was able to continue working on the realization of his pedagogical ideas there until his death. 

In Winterthur he gave lectures on German literature, taught revolutionary history in French and taught German to adults. 

There he also received a thank-you address signed by 4,763 canton citizens and a golden commemorative coin. 

Above: Old Town Winterthur

Scherr’s final years were shaped on the one hand by long journeys through Europe, numerous correspondence with friends and visits to schools and homes, on the other hand overshadowed by an ear problem that made him hard of hearing. 

Thomas Scherr died of a heart attack in 1870. 

A street in Küsnacht and a primary school in District 6 in Zürich are named after him.

Above: Thomas Scherr Strasse, Küsnacht

Katharina Rebsamen-Egloff was also highly educated and the daughter of a government councilor and colonel in the Swiss army.

Between 1874 and 1876, Enrique C. Rébsamen attended the teacher training college in Kreuzlingen. 

Above: Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen

He then completed his studies in Lausanne and Zürich before serving as director of the grammar school in Lichtenfels until 1882.

During this time he made friends with various intellectuals. 

Above: Lichtenfels, the basket town

One of them, the explorer and writer Carl von Gagern, gave Rébsamen his essay Quetzalcoatl to read. 

According to tradition, Rébsamen was initially shocked to read it, but in 1883 he decided to get to know Mexico better.

In Mexico, Rébsamen initially took over the education of a merchant’s children. 

In Mexico City (Ciudad de México), Rébsamen befriended contemporary figures, such as author and politician Ignacio Manuel Altamirano.

Above: Images of Ciudad de México, Mexico

Ignacio Manuel Altamirano Basilio (1834 – 1893) was a Mexican radical liberal writer, journalist, teacher and politician.

He wrote Clemencia (1869), which is often considered to be the first modern Mexican novel.

A great defender of liberalism, he took part in the Ayutla Revolution in 1854 against Santanismo, later in the Reform War and fought against the French invasion in 1863.

After this period of military conflicts, Altamirano dedicated himself to teaching, working as a teacher at the National Preparatory School, at the Higher School of Commerce and Administration, and at the National School of Teachers.

He also worked in the press, where, together with Guillermo Prieto and Ignacio Ramirez, he founded the El Correo de México, and, with Gonzalo A. Esteva, the literary magazine El Renacimiento, in which writers of all literary, ideological and political tendencies collaborate, which had among its main objectives to provoke the resurgence of Mexican letters and promote the notion of national unity and identity.

He laid the foundations for free, secular and compulsory primary education. 

He founded the Liceo de Puebla and the Escuela Normal de Profesores de México and wrote several highly successful books in his time, in which he cultivated different styles and literary genres. 

Critical studies of him were published in literary magazines in Mexico. 

His speeches have also been published. 

Altamirano loved the legends, customs and descriptions of the landscapes of Mexico. 

In 1867, he began to stand out and oriented his literature towards the affirmation of national values, also serving as a literary historian and critic. 

On the centenary of his birth, his remains were deposited in the Rotunda of Illustrious Persons in Mexico City. 

The Ignacio Manuel Altamirano medal was created in order to reward 50 years of teaching work.

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Above: Ignàcio Manuel Altamirano

As a result, Mexican President Porfinio Díaz became aware of Rébsamen. 

Above: Porfirio Diaz (1830 – 1915)

He recommended him to the then governor of Veracruz, Juan de la Luz Enriquez, who was promoting educational projects in the state at the same time.

In 1886, Rébsamen founded the Escuela Normal, the teachers’ college in Xalapa, the capital of the state of Veracruz.

Above: Coat of arms of Veracruz

He followed the pattern of the school of the German Enrique Laubscher in Orizaba. 

Above: Enrique Laubscher

Rébsamen’s ideas and methods were published by Abraham Castellanos under the title Pedagogía Rébsamen (Rébsamen Pedagogy).

In 1889, Rébsamen founded the magazine called México Intelectual.

From 1891, at the request of President Diaz, the reorganization of public schools was extended to other places. 

Rébsamen personally worked in Oaxaca, Jalisco and Guanajuato. 

In seven other educational institutions, teachers trained by him passed on the new ideas. 

In 1900, 45 educational institutions were already working according to his methods. 

At the same time, Rébsamen published numerous writings, such as “Method of Writing and Reading” in 1899 , which was sold in four million copies by 1929.

Rébsamen died in Xalapa in April 1904 .

Above: Images of Xalapa, Mexico

The Mexican teacher training is still based in many parts on the work of Rébsamen. 

He founded the regulated teacher training in Mexico and promoted the local elementary school system. 

Rébsamen also drafted legal texts that defined primary education throughout the state in its new form. 

To this day, Rébsamen is recognized in numerous public places.

  • The teacher seminar he founded in Veracruz bears his name
  • Various streets in Mexico bear Rébsamen’s name, including one of the main streets in Xalapa and another in Mexico City’s Colonia Valle district
  • Numerous schools in Mexico are named after Rébsamen
  • In Switzerland, Rébsamen is commemorated with a commemorative plaque in the southern stairwell of the old building of the Kreuzlingen pedagogical middle school

Above: Escuela Rébsamen in Xalapa

Rébsamen is proof positive that someone, something, good can come out of Kreuzlingen.

Edgar Steiger (1858 – 1919) was a German-Swiss writer and journalist.

Edgar Steiger was born in Kreuzlingen as the 12th child of a renowned evangelical pastor. 

Under these conditions, his path in church service seemed already mapped out. 

After graduating from the Heinrich Suso Gymnasium (high school) in Konstanz in 1877, he began his theological studies at the University of Basel. 

Above: Suso Gymnasium, Konstanz, Germany

He soon switched to the philosophical faculty.

When the pressure of expectations from his strictly conservative, theologically oriented family became too great for the gifted man, he fled to Leipzig in 1879 without their knowledge. 

At the University of Leipzig, freer study awaited him. 

However, in 1883, Steiger finally broke off his studies.

From 1884 he tried his hand as a freelance writer and theater critic. 

He became an employee of critical literary magazines that dealt with the newly emerging literature of naturalism (the precise observation of society and nature and the depiction of current problems of the time). 

Steiger’s first writing on this was published in 1889 under the title The struggle for the new seal.

He had a combative nature and found a home in the young social democracy. 

Steiger became acquainted with leaders of the German Social Democratic Party. 

Above: Logo of the German Social Democratic Party

Through his one-year activity in 1893/1894 as assistant editor of the Vorwärts in Basel, he was also in contact with local Social Democrats. 

Back in Leipzig, Steiger became editor of the features section of the Leipziger Volkszeitung in 1895, where he wrote critical articles on political issues for many years under the pseudonym Cri-Cri.  

In 1896 he became editor of the Neue Welt, the culturally oriented Sunday supplement for the social democratic newspaper. 

Shortly afterwards he had to deal with the public prosecutor’s office, because of a novella published in the Neue Welt, charged with blasphemy.

Above: Banner of Die Neue Welt (1876 – 1919)

Steiger was accused in 1896 as the responsible editor in the “Nazarene Trial” and sentenced in March 1897 to four and a half months in prison in Zwickau. 

Above: Zwickau, Germany

Steiger used this time to write his extensive, highly acclaimed work on the dramatic literature of naturalism: 

The Becoming of the New Drama.

Steiger left Leipzig in March 1898 to settle in München (Munich), the city that promised writers at the time freer creativity compared to other major cities. 

Above: München (Munich), Bayern (Bavaria), Deutschland (Germany)

There he became a busy contributor, particularly to the renowned journals Jugend and Simplicissimus

Above: Copy of Jugend (Youth) (1896 – 1940)

By the time he died, he had written more than 400 texts for the latter magazine, as one of their four “house poets“.

Above: First edition of Simplicissimus (1896 – 1944)

As a theatre reviewer, he worked for the daily newspapers Münchner Neueste NachrichtenHamburger Fremdenblatt, Berlin’s Der Tag, and others, as well as for the cultural magazines Münchner SalonblattFreistattDas literarische Echo, and many more.

Through his work in Munich’s cultural life, he was in close contact with the literary and theatre world.

Above: Coat of arms of Munich

During the First World War, Steiger’s collection of poems, Weltwirbel, was published. 

During this time he increasingly turned to social democratic newspapers, such as the daily newspapers Münchener Post and the Frankfurter Zeitung, as well as the magazines Die Glocke and, after the end of the war, Die Neue Zeit.

The situation for journalists deteriorated to such an extent – also due to the shortage of paper – that Steiger, who had been a member of the “Protection Association of German Writers” (SDS) since 1913, was only able to achieve a slight improvement in the situation with his fight for higher line fees. 

War, impoverishment and hunger exhausted Edgar Steiger’s vitality. 

He died of acute pneumonia in 1919.

Ludwig Binswanger (1881 – 1966) was a Swiss psychiatrist and psychoanalyst.

He is probably the best-known offspring of the widespread Swiss psychiatrist family Binswanger. 

He was one of the leading intellectual personalities in his country early on and is considered the founder of Daseinsanalyse, a combination of psychoanalysis and existential philosophy, which represented an important depth psychological doctrine, especially after the Second World War.

As a result, Ludwig Binswanger found a permanent place in the history of psychiatry in the 20th century.

For 45 years he ran the Bellevue Sanatorium in Kreuzlingen, founded by his namesake grandfather in 1857, through which he became internationally known.

Above: Ludwig Binswanger

Ludwig Binswanger was the first son of Robert Binswanger, under whose direction the sanatorium had already gained a reputation throughout Europe. 

In line with family tradition, he grew up in close contact with the patients at the clinic, while the family itself had a keen interest in philosophy, history, literature, art and music that went far beyond that .

Personally, he was guided by his father’s principle of not being attached to any scientific “school” or dogma, in order to remain open and free from ideological and scientific ties. 

The Binswangers also took a liberal view early on in the treatment of the mentally ill, while on the other hand they showed great respect and deep understanding for the individuality of the sick. 

In Bellevue, Binswanger was interested in advances in psychiatry, particularly in Freud’s psychoanalysis, but critically examining them while preserving his own thinking and judgment.

Above: Sanatorium Bellevue, Kreuzlingen

At Brunegg Castle, Ludwig Binswanger received private lessons from the age of four, then he came to the seminar training school. 

He spent the first years of high school at the canton school in Schaffhausen, later he switched to the high school in Konstanz – it was an excellent school that gave him the intellectual and especially the scientific foundations of his education.

Above: Brunegg Castle, Emmishofen, Kreuzlingen

His medical training began in 1900. 

He studied three semesters in Lausanne, four semesters in Zürich, then two semesters in Heidelberg, and then another five semesters in Zürich.

In 1906, he passed his medical state examination in Zürich. 

Above: Logo of the University of Zürich

After completing his doctorate, he spent a year as an assistant at the Burgholzli University Clinic in Zürich, which was headed by Eugen Bleuler. 

Above: Eugen Bleuler (1857 – 1939)

The senior physician was Carl Gustav Jung, with whom Binswanger wrote his doctoral thesis The psychogalvanic reflex phenomenon in the association experiment

Jung drew Ludwig Binswanger’s attention to psychoanalysis. 

At that time, Bleuler and Jung were trying to incorporate psychoanalysis into psychiatry.

Above: Carl Jung (1875 – 1961)

Ludwig Binswanger dealt intensively with the psychoanalysis of Sigmund Freud at the Burgholzli. 

He owed his earliest contact with Freud to Jung. 

They worked on an analysis of the connection between ideas and effects. 

Above: Klinik Burghölzli, Zürich

In 1907, Binswanger and Jung travelled to see Freud in Vienna to discuss their findings with him.

A lifelong friendship with growing intimacy developed between Freud, who was 25 years his senior, and Binswanger. 

Their correspondence from 1908 to 1938 shows a fascinating discussion of different scientific views. 

Freud admired Binswanger’s erudition, the breadth of his intellectual horizon, his modesty and tact.

Various trips to Vienna and a return visit by Freud to Kreuzlingen at Pentecost in 1912 established a friendship between the two that lasted until Freud’s death in 1939, although they had fundamentally different views on theory.

Freud hoped that Binswanger would soon play a dual role as a mediator between psychoanalysis and the “Zürichers” (the analysts around Bleuler and Jung) on ​​the one hand and clinical psychiatry on the other.

However, a single dissenting vote by Binswanger in 1914 could not prevent the “Zürcher” from leaving the Psychoanalytic Association. 

For his part, Binswanger demonstratively joined the Vienna group and wrote to Freud:

I prefer this group because by joining it I think I can best document my adoration and admiration for you and my attachment.

Above: Sigmund Freud (1856 – 1939)

Another year followed in 1907/1908 as an assistant doctor with his uncle Otto Binswanger at the psychiatric clinic in Jena. 

Above: Otto Binswanger (1852 – 1929)

Above: Modern Jena, Germany

After an educational trip to Paris, England and Scotland, Binswanger joined his father Robert in Bellevue as an assistant doctor in 1908.

Above: Robert Binswanger (1850 – 1910)

That same year he married Hertha Buchenberger, whom he had met in Jena. 

She was the daughter of the Baden Minister of Finance. 

Having broken out of the narrow prejudices of her time, she had taken up the nursing profession, which was then despised and frowned upon in the upper circles. 

It was a lucky choice that Binswanger had made: 

A cultivated, sparkling, noble and noble woman entered his world, who understood him deeply, served the sick in a selfless way and accompanied him as the most loyal, understanding companion on his often not easy journey. 

Binswanger had a total of six children with his wife.

Above: Bellevue Sanatorium, Kreuzlingen

As early as 1911, the barely 30-year-old Ludwig took over the management of the Bellevue after the sudden death of his father. 

His brother Otto was responsible for the commercial and economic division of the company.

Above: Bellevue Sanatorium, Kreuzlingen

A day as director of the Bellevue:

  • the medical conference began at eight in the morning
  • the medical rounds lasted from nine to noon 
  • the doctors, their wives and the patients were brought together at lunchtime
  • at three o’clock in the afternoon the psychotherapeutic work followed
  • in the evening after seven o’clock the doctors and patients gathered for dinner together
  • after which one sat together with them and could then devote oneself to scientific reading

On Friday afternoon, Binswanger retired to Brunegg to rest thoroughly from this strict “being-there-for-the-others” attitude; 

Saturday and Sunday permitted one’s own scientific work. 

The family had to be neglected in this service, but his grandfather had already introduced the motto:

First come the sick.

Above: Brunegg Castle, Emmishofen, Kreuzlingen

In 1920 he gave a paper at the Hague International Congress of Psychoanalysis entitled “Psychoanalysis and Clinical Psychiatry“. 

Two years later, Binswanger’s main work from the early phase, Introduction to the problems of general psychology, appeared.

In the interwar period, Binswanger was busy giving lectures. 

In 1922, for example, he gave a lecture on “On Phenomenology” in Burgholzli, in which he dealt with the importance of Husserl’s phenomenology for psychopathology. 

Phenomenology is a philosophical trend whose representatives see the origin of knowledge gain in immediately given appearances, the phenomena.

In the 1920s, philosophers, writers and artists often met at Bellevue.

Thanks to Ludwig’s diverse contacts, the Bellevue became a center of European intellectual life. 

Binswanger’s extensive correspondence and the Kreuzlingen guest book, which lists artists and scientists of European standing, bear witness to this:

  • Sigmund Freud
  • Edmund Husserl 
  • Max Scheler
  • Martin Heidegger
  • Karl Löwith
  • Leopold Ziegler
  • Martin Buber
  • Werner Bergengruen
  • Leonhard Frank
  • Rudolf Alexander Schröder
  • Edwin Fischer
  • Henry van de Velde
  • Aby Warburg
  • Julius Schaxel
  • Kurt Goldstein
  • Wilhelm Furtwängler
  • Emil Staiger

Other personalities visited Binswanger in Kreuzlingen.

Illustrious names were also among the patients at Bellevue: 

  • Alice von Battenberg (mother of Prince Philip, Prince Consort of Queen Elizabeth II)
  • Russian dancer Vaslav Nijinsky
  • actor Gustaf Gründgens
  • art historian Aby Warburg
  • psychologist Karl Duncker
  • artist Ernst Ludwig Kirchner

Above: Portrait of Dr. Ludwig Binswanger, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner

After ten years of work, Binswanger published his work Introduction to the Problems of General Psychology in 1922, which he dedicated to Bleuler and Freud.

Above: Introduction to the Problems of General Psychology

From 1925 to 1928 Ludwig Binswanger was President of the Swiss Association for Psychiatry.

In 1936, on the occasion of Freud’s 80th birthday, Ludwig Binswanger held one of the celebratory lectures in Vienna entitled “Freud’s conception of man in the light of anthropology“, in which he subjected Freud’s conception of man to a well-founded criticism. 

The University of Basel awarded him an honorary doctorate in 1941.

Just one year later, in 1942, Binswanger’s main work, Basic Forms and Knowledge of Human Being, was published. 

In it, Binswanger founded his own anthropology, which became known under the name “Daseinsanalyse“.

In 1947, the first of two anthologies of lectures and essays was published, the second appeared in 1955.

Binswanger resigned from his position in 1956 and handed over the management of the clinic to his son Wolfgang.

Above: Inside Bellevue

Binswanger continued his research and writing for a long time after he left Bellevue. 

He did not see his works as something finished, accomplished:

Everything is always in the process of becoming. 

Now that he was old, he could devote himself to writing at leisure. 

At that time it had to be wrested from the few weeks of vacation in Braunwald, on Bödele in Vorarlberg, at Wolfsberg Castle, and the meager weekend hours. 

Because the days belonged to the sick.

Above: Braunwald, Canton Glaurus, Switzerland

Above: Bödele Lake, Vorarlberg, Austria

Above: Wolfsberg Castle, Carinthia, Austria

Ludwig Binswanger wrote Three Forms of Failed Existence: Extravagance, eccentricity, mannerisms in 1956.

This work related psychiatric-depth-psychological thinking to an art-historical perspective. 

According to this, neurotic and schizophrenic experiences have many parallels in cultural and intellectual history:

The mentally ill person does not “invent” their illness themselves, but absorbs a great deal from the culture surrounding them.

In 1957, his schizophrenia studies were published in the book Schizophrenie, as was the anthology Der Mensch in der Psychiatrie

One of the rare awards for outstanding scientific achievements, the Kraepelin Medal, was presented to Binswanger in 1957.

Two years later he was awarded an honorary doctorate by the University of Freiburg im Breisgau.

In 1960, the book Melancholie und Manie was published. 

In it, Binswanger turned to transcendental phenomenological thinking. 

Binswanger became an honorary senator of the Swiss Academy of Medical Sciences in Basel in 1961. 

In the book Wahn, which appeared in 1965, he dealt with the problem of delusion from a phenomenological and Daseinsanalytic point of view.

Above: Delusional

Ludwig Binswanger’s estate is in the Binswanger Archive of the University of Tübingen.

Ludwig Binswanger was primarily a scientist, more researcher than therapist, while he could rely on the cooperation of excellent resident physicians for his work in the clinic. 

This offered Binswanger the opportunity for extensive personal and academic contacts with many of the most renowned thinkers of his time.

Ludwig Binswanger rejected the possibility of an academic career. 

As a doctor, he always remained in close contact with psychiatric empiricism. 

The top priority for him was to methodically do justice to the vivid reality of sick people. 

For him, the philosophical and scientific currents of his time were primarily instruments for refining medical empiricism.

Binswanger rejected any formation of dogma. 

His reception of psychoanalysis was critical.

Above: Sanatorium Bellevue, Kreuzlingen

In search of a better understanding of the puzzling nature of psychosis and neurosis, Binswanger came across phenomenology. 

This doctrine says that a phenomenon is to be equated with the meaning and content of the experience of the respective person. 

Acts that give meaning and are filled with meaning and their subject matter make people human. 

The perceived phenomena remain both the starting point and the end point of scientific observation.

This is where Binswanger’s view differs in principle from Freud’s, psychoanalysis explores the unconscious behind the “façade” in depth psychology. 

In the end, phenomenology proved too narrow for Binswanger.

Ludwig Binswanger began to understand man in terms of his worldliness.

The new way of thinking about people and things revolutionized philosophy at the time.

Binswanger tried to clarify the relationship between science and philosophy in order to avoid confusion and mutual crossing of borders.

Ludwig Binswanger was enthusiastic about psychoanalysis. 

However, because of his psychopathological and psychiatric-clinical knowledge, conclusions and decisions, he was not satisfied with the limitations that psychoanalysis has. 

The general conditions of his clinic, which is far away from the university science operations, allowed him to gain his own knowledge in the context of the respective application of concretely required experiences and skills. 

Although the psychoanalytic method of treatment remained an indispensable tool for him, he distanced himself from the theoretical conclusions.

In an interlocking way of working, Ludwig Binswanger tried to combine knowledge from two different sources, psychoanalytical and philosophical, into a new theory. 

For him, theory is not, as in the natural sciences, a construction for the purpose of explaining an event. 

For him, theory becomes a methodological guide for the scientific understanding of these experiences, taken from the meaning and content of certain types of experience.

Ludwig Binswanger first named his field of research “phenomenological anthropology“. 

It was not until 1941 that he called it Daseinsanalyse.

It should not displace psychoanalysis, since they are two completely different ways of thinking. 

The basic psychoanalytic concern was even significantly promoted by the analysis of existence and has gained an important proximity to the reality of life.

Step by step, the founder of Daseinsanalyse demonstrated where and how the scientific way of thinking in the area of ​​human behavior falls short and misses what is specifically human in human existence. 

In doing so, he relied to a large extent on Heidegger’s deconstruction of Descartes’ basic idea- I think, therefore I am. – which had led to the subject-object split in the world, which Binswanger called the “cancer evil” of science.

Above: René Descartes (1596 – 1650)

Programmatically for the Daseinsanalyse, Ludwig Binswanger used Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel’s sentence:

Individuality is what its world as its own is“. 

Binswanger did not found a school, but integrated phenomenological, psychoanalytic and psychiatric points of view into an anthropology.

Above: Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel (1770 – 1831)

The existence analysis is a systematically practiced method in which doctor and patient are on the same level. 

It is the level of the dialogue about the structure of the entire world of the person concerned, in which the symptom becomes a structural element of his existence.

The patient should be allowed to speak, and he himself, it is not about the words about him. 

The mode of expression is the actual guide. 

It is about taking the verbal expression seriously, because this is the only way the doctor can gain greater clarity about what is to be perceived in the patient. 

This special communication between doctor and patient shows what is real and what should therefore become the basis of medical action. 

Through this form of relationship, Daseinsanalyse’s therapeutic effectiveness fell into its lap, so to speak.

Above: Ludwig Binswanger

The founder of Daseinsanalyse started from the necessity of a destiny bond with regard to the purely interpersonal relationship in the sense of genuine togetherness. 

The doctor has to consider a modification of the constitution of existence, this order of existence of the individual human being in his individual character. 

He can only do that if he gives up the medically learned objective observation standpoint in order to be able to participate in the existence of the other with a very special openness. 

In understanding and co-experiencing, he learns the essentials from the patient. 

He succeeds in finding out the “inner life story” of the patient.

The aim of the analysis of existence will always be to help the structure of the respective existence to its richest development.

The Sanatorium of Bellevue (1857 – 1980), which occupied part of the old monastery, played an important role in the history of Kreuzlingen.

In 1842, Ignaz Vanotti from Konstanz bought a large tract of land and built a residential and commercial building in 1843 to house the emigrant press of Bellevue, which had previously been located in Römerburg.

In 1857, Ludwig Binswanger, a psychiatrist from Münsterlingen, the grandfather of the aforementioned Ludwig Binswanger, acquired the property and opened a private sanatorium.

The clinic was very modern and remained in the control of the Binswanger family for nearly 120 years.

Important psychiatric advances, particularly under the founder’s grandson, also called Ludwig Binswanger, especially in the development of existential psychotherapy, were made at the sanatorium.

However, few of its buildings remain.

What remains of Bellevue can be seen from the Kreuzlingen Hauptbahnhof (main train station).

It is a reminder of that eternally elusive question:

Why am I here?

A person never goes to Kreuzlingen.

A person goes through Kreuzlingen en route to somewhere else.

But perhaps this is a mistake.

For life’s purpose should not be its final destination, but rather its moments on the journey.

We may not always enjoy where we are.

We may not always trust those we encounter there.

But life is either a blessing or a lesson.

Perhaps there is something Kreuzlingen has to teach.

Perhaps something positive can come from Kreuzlingen or Konya, Landschlacht or Lachute, Edmonton or Eskişehir, Rotterdam or Rome, or anywhere.

Places simply are.

It is us that give these places meaning.

Consider the court jester of the Middle Ages.

While considered merely to be a comedian, the jester was in a unique position to tell truth to power without being punished.

Back then, kings were absolute rulers – detached from the lives of their subjects (much like company CEOs can be clueless about the experience of their employees).

The jester’s job would be to play with the populace.

Then, having felt the pulse of the people, he would come back to court and tell the King the truth:

Your Highness, the people are peeved with the price of produce.

They are offended by the Queen’s coterie.

The Pope possesses more power than you.

Everyone is reading heretical literature.

Your stutter is the butt of many jokes and your butt is the topic over tea.

The King did not kill the jester.

In order to rule more wisely, the King needed the jester’s insights.

Today’s elected leaders have no better connection with real people (especially outside their borders) than those “divinely ordained” kings did centuries ago.

And this is where the traveller (as opposed to the tourist) plays the fool.

Our perspective differs from that of the locals, sometimes rightly, sometimes wrongly, but nevertheless the distinctiveness is important in offering a wider observation of common communities.

We see in a way the locals cannot.

That being said they see their world from their own viewpoint.

What is important is that everyone, everywhere has something to teach everyone else.

I think of my friends back at the Dublin.

I think of past friends who disappointed me by possessing the fatal flaw of being human and thus prone to error.

The danger has never been from the strange or the stranger, but rather from the familiar and beloved.

For it is those we love that expose our vulnerability, that can harm us in ways no mere stranger could imagine.

Those we trust can hurt us the most.

We have only today, only this moment.

The future may be something to be feared, but now is a gift.

That is why it is called the present.

There is a Kreuzlingen all around us.

It is the cross we all must carry.

How we choose to see it, what good can come from the experience, is what makes the difference in our existence.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Dale Carnegie, How to Win Friends and Influence People / Ralph Waldo Emerson, Self-Reliance / Susan Griffith, Teaching English Abroad / Ronald Gross, The Independent Scholar’s Handbook / George Orwell, Down and Out in Paris and London / Rick Steeves, Travel as a Political Act

Swiss Miss and the Way of Heaven

Eskişehir, Turkey, Sunday 12 June 2022

Southeast Asia has a real grip on me.

From the very first time I went there, it was a fulfillment of my childhood fantasies of the way travel should be.”

(Anthony Bourdain)

Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown was an American travel and food show on CNN, which premiered on 14 April 2013.

In the show, Bourdain (1956 – 2018) travelled the world uncovering lesser-known places and exploring their cultures and cuisine.

Parts Unknown aired the last collection of episodes on CNN in the autumn of 2018.

The series finale, titled “Lower East Side” — bringing Bourdain’s culinary travelogue full circle back to Bourdain’s hometown of New York — aired 11 November 2018.

Above: Lower East Side, New York City

Bourdain visited (aired 19 October 2014) the former Vietnamese Imperial capital of Huê in Central Vietnam, the nation’s spiritual, cultural and culinary capital, where he tried local specialties, such as Bún bò Huê, Com hên (clams with rice topped with clam broth and pork rinds), Bánh bèo and Bánh bôt loc (cassava flour cakes topped with pan-fried shrimp, pork belly and green onions) at street vendors and restaurants.

Above: Imperial City, Huê, Vietnam

Above: Bun bò Huê

Above: Com hên

Above: Bánh bêo

Above: Bánh bêo loc

He visited Dông Ba Market, a local artist’s home sampling Vietnamese imperial court cuisine, a local fishing village, and the Communist Vinh Mõc tunnels north of the former DMZ.

Above: Dong Ba Market, Huê, Vietnam

Above: Visitors in Vinh Moc Tunnel, Vietnam

Above: The De-militarized Zone between North and South Vietnam, 1969

Bourdain revisited the 1968 Tet Offensive, including the Battle of Huê and the Huê Massacre, where 3,000 civilians were massacred by the Viet Cong.

Above: US Marines fighting at Huê, February 1968

Above: Burial of 300 unidentified victims of the Huê Massacre of 28 February 1968

For much of my life I have not been much of a TV watcher, and once I began travelling my TV watching was sporadic, at best.

I had never heard of Bourdain until I caught the news that he had died.

Above: Anthony Bourdain (1956 – 2018)

Bourdain was working on an episode of the show centered in Strasbourg, France, at the time of his death on 8 June 2018.

Above: Cathedral, Strasbourg, France

Bourdain was found dead by his friend and collaborator Éric Ripert of an apparent suicide by hanging in his room at the Le Chambard Hotel in nearby Kaysersberg.

I’m not going anywhere.

I hope.

It has been an adventure.

We took some casualities over the years.

Things got broken.

Things got lost.

But I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.

Anthony Bourdain

Above: Hotel Chambard, Kaysersberg, France

Ripert spoke of his friend and his contributions:

He has changed the way we see the world.

He has changed the way television covers travel shows and food shows.

Who would have known what happened in Congo or in Libya except through his eyes?

Above: Democratic Republic of the Congo (formerly Zaire) (often referred to as Congo – Kinshasa) (dark green) and the Republic of the Congo (often referred to as Congo – Brazzaville) (light green) – The Congo River forms much of the border between these two countries.

Above: Flag of Congo – Kinshasa

Above: Flag of Congo – Brazzaville

Above: Flag of Libya

He was giving a voice to people.

His show was not a food show.

It was not a travel show.

It was much bigger than that.

All of this, I think, it’s something that will never be forgotten.

Above: Eric Ripert

To this I cannot comment, but in doing research on this stage of the travels of Swiss Miss from Hanoi to Ninh Binh, I came across the vlog Mitchell Travels, paying tribute to Bourdain whilst Mitchell was visiting Tam Coc, which is en route between Hanoi and Ninh Binh.

Above: Mitchell Mingorance

We are all products of our environment, nature and nurture.

When your life has been defined, when you know why you live the life you do, you understand how you got there, who helped shape you, what hurt you, how you grew to be you.

(Mitchell Travels)

Above: Mitchell Mingorance

According to Mitchell, Vietnam was the country that spoke to Bourdain the loudest.

Above: Flag of Vietnam

I will be honest, despite my intentions to become a vlogger one day soon, generally I dislike travel vlogs intensely, for so many of these privileged pups, in my opinion, seem to excel only in their display of arrogant cockiness and ostentatious glorification of themselves in innumerable shots of their oh-so-smug smiling faces.

And though I cannot quite bring myself to fully feel fuzzies for Mitchell, I found myself impressed with his efforts.

Above: Mitchell Mingorance

1 a.m., at the Tam Coc Backpackers Hostel, one of the few places with a late night heart beat in town and as is the norm in most hostels you can find a pool table, cheap local beer and an incompetent game of amateur hour pool.

Tonight is no different.

It shouldn’t be.

This is rural Vietnam.

(Mitchell Travels)

According to the vlog, Mitchell stayed at the Tam Coc Rice Fields Resort.

Above: Tam Coc Rice Fields Resort

Monday 25 March 2019, Ninh Binh, Vietnam

If I am an advocate for anything, it is to move.

As far as you can, as much as you can.

Across the ocean or across the river.

The extent to which you can walk in someone else’s shoes or at least eat their food, it is a plus for everybody.

Open your mind, get off the couch, move.

Anthony Bourdain

Above: Anthony Bourdain

Heidi and Sebastian (not their real names), she of Switzerland, he of Argentina, have been travelling together for about a week this day.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Above: Flag of Argentina

They bought motorcycles in Hanoi and set themselves a goal:

Above: Hanoi, Vietnam

To ride down the length and coast of Vietnam to Ho Chi Minh City where she would travel on from there to Thailand and he would return back home.

Above: Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), Vietnam

They have been friends since Hanoi, where a shared ennui with a Hanoi city tour they had taken brought them together.

Above: Walking tour, Hanoi

Heidi welcomed Sebastian for the security a male companion can bring.

He welcomed her unconditional acceptance of the special individual he is.

Maybe that is enlightenment enough, to know that there is no final resting place of the mind, no moment of smug clarity.

Perhaps wisdom is realizing how small I am and unwise, and how far I have yet to go.

Anthony Bourdain

Above: Anthony Bourdain

A quiet and hazy spring morning in the Vietnamese countryside.

60 km south of the city of Hanoi, on the river Dáy, Phủ Lý is the capital city of Hà Nam Province.

Above: Phu Ly, Vietnam

Located at Nguyen Van Troi Street, Bau Pagoda is a scenic spiritual place, a long-standing sacred place in a vast land.

In front of the pagoda is a deep and wide lake, connected with the Dáy River, beautiful scenery that adds to the tranquility of the pagoda. 

Above: Bau Pagoda

According to the theory of yin and yang there are five elements. 

In front of a temple, there is usually a lake, because according to legend, temples represent yang, lakes represent yin. 

Yang and yin create a harmonious balance in Heaven and Earth.

According to feng shui theory, temples are places of sanctity and respect. 

Above: Feng shui spiral, Chinatown Metro Station, Los Angeles, California

The lake in front of the temple seems to remind people who come to this place to wash their hands and feet to remove all the dust in order to sincerely worship. 

Thus, the spiritual is never distant from the physical.

The Bau Pagoda combines the traditional spirit of the nation with the new ambitions of today.

It is a combination of national and modern dharma. 

According to old documents, Bau Pagoda is over a thousand years old. 

This has been a place of spiritual and cultural activities for many generations. 

Bau Pagoda still preserves many precious artifacts from the past.

Along with churches and temples in the city, Bau Pagoda is a temple that create a feeling of peace and quiet in the noisy city.

Travel changes you.

As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small.

And, in return, life and travel leaves marks on you.

Most of the time those marks on your body or on your heart are beautiful.

Often though they hurt.

Anthony Bourdain

Above: Anthony Bourdain

Ha Nam Province, in the words of the late professor Tran Quoc Vuong, is a locality located in the “water quadrilateral” of the Red River Delta – one of the biggest cradles of the art of rowing in Vietnam.

Above: Red River Delta, Vietnam (in red)

Ha Nam was the pioneer province in making a dossier to submit to UNESCO to recognize the art of Cheo singing as a representative Intangible Cultural Heritage of humanity.

Above: Logo of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

Ha Nam Cheo Theatre, located at Ly Thai To Street, keeps Cheo art alive.

Continue south to Van Long.

The Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve is a nature reserve in Gia Vien District, along the northeastern border of Ninh Binh Province.

The site is one of the few intact lowland inland wetlands remaining in the Hong River Delta.

Limestone karst is surrounded by the freshwater lake, marshes and swamps.

Together with subterranean hydrological systems they form a wetland complex, which is very rare in mainland Southeast Asia.

The Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve is a habitat for the critically endangered Delacour’s langur and may be the only place in the world where the species can be observed in the wild.

Above: Typical water landscape in Van Long Nature Reserve

Since 1960, a dike line of more than 30 km long was built on the left bank of the Dáy River, turning Van Long into a wetland 3,500 hectares wide, attracting many birds to stop and feed mid-migration.

Above: Van Long Nature Reserve

Isolated mountains, rocky islands in the middle of a vast valley, have “accidentally” become the salvation for many species of animals and plants to escape human destruction. 

But the most valuable coincidence was when foreign experts discovered that Van Long has more than 40 individuals of the white-breeded langur. 

This discovery surprised the scientific community, because the langur is a highly endangered species.

Above: Delacour’s langur

 

The study of Van Long lagoon area has brought scientists from one surprise to another, because the flora and fauna here are very typical for both the two ecosystems of limestone mountains and wetlands of the Red River Delta. 

In addition to the langur, there are many species of animals and plants, such as broadleaf conifers, money-flowers, flower slices, horse bears, leopards, salamanders…

Above: Van Long

Here also is an insect species that is close to extinction, a species of ca cuong belonging to the swimming leg family. 

The only place where this particular species of ca cuong can live must have a really clean water environment. 

In the flooded areas of Van Long, there are ca cuong species (Belostomatidae), a group of rare insects, the living expression of the purity of the water environment here, which help people to destroy molluscs carrying parasitic diseases.

Above: A belostomatidae

Currently, Van Long is supported by the Dutch government, the Global Environment Facility (GEF) and the Cuc Phuong Rare Primate Rescue Center, which strives to conserve rare mammal species.

Above: Flag of the Netherlands

Above: Logo of the Global Environment Facility

Above: Residents of the Cuc Phone Rare Primate Rescue Center, Vietnam

Van Long wetland is an area with diverse ecosystems. 

In addition to the two main ecosystems of wetlands and forests on limestone mountains, there are also ecosystems of fields, lawns, shifting cultivation and village ecosystems.

Above: Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve

The flora ecosystem in Van Long has 722 species.  

Particularly noteworthy are absinthe, broad-leaved conifers, tonic cones, fern sage, cycads, and canola flowers.

The fauna ecosystem of Van Long area is very rich.

Here, there are rare animals, such as langurs, bears, chamois, red-faced monkeys, leopards, reptile frogs, king cobras, flower lizards, ground pythons, buffalo snakes, red-haired striped snakes…..

Above: Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve

Delacour’s langur males weigh between 7.5 and 10.5 kg (17 and 23 lb), while the females are slightly smaller, weighing between 6.2 and 9.2 kg (14 and 20 lb).

Their fur is predominantly black, with white markings on the face and distinctive creamy-white fur over the rump and the outer thighs, while females also have a patch of pale fur in the pubic area.

The Delacour’s langur has a crest of long, upright, hair over the forehead and crown.

Above: A Delacour’s langur

Delacour’s langurs are diurnal, often spending the day sleeping in limestone caves, although they sleep on bare rocky surfaces if no caves are available.

They are folivorous, with about 78% of the diet reportedly consisting of foliage, although they also eat fruit, seeds, and flowers.

The monkeys have been reported to eat leaves from a wide range of different plant species, indicating that their apparent dependence on limestone habitats is not related to their diet.

Above: A Delacour’s langur

In previous decades, Delacour’s langurs were reported to live in troops of up to 30 individuals, often including a mix of males and females, although single-male groups are more common, and some small all-male groups have also been reported.

In more recent years, the typical group size seems to be much smaller, with only about four to 16 members each.

Males defend the troop’s territory from outsiders, often standing watch on rocky outcrops.

When potential rivals are spotted, the males in a troop initially try to intimidate them with loud hoots and visual displays, resorting to chasing and fighting if this fails.

Within the group, social bonds are maintained by grooming and play.

Above: Family of Delacour’s langur monkeys

Despite living in forested habitats, Delacour’s langurs are primarily terrestrial, only occasionally venturing into the trees.

They swing by their hands when travelling through trees, and use their tails for balance when rapidly scrambling over steep rocky terrain.

Above: A Delacour’s langur

Females give birth to a single young after a gestation period of 170 to 200 days.

The young are born with orange fur, and are precocial, with open eyes and strong arms.

The fur begins to turn black at around four months, and the young are probably weaned at 19 to 21 months, when the mother is likely ready to breed again.

However, the full adult coat pattern is not achieved for around three years.

Females reach sexual maturity at four years, and males at five years.

The total life expectancy is around 20 years.

Above: Delacour’s langur monkeys – mother and child

Classified as critically endangered by the International Union of the Conservation of Nature (IUCN), the primary threats to the species are their being hunted for traditional medicine, loss of forest habitat and the local development of tourism. 

As of 2010, less than 250 of these animals were believed to remain in the wild, with nineteen in captivity.

Above: Logo of the IUCN

Van Long also has the ability to form a bird garden with tens of thousands of storks often feeding in marshy fields and rice fields. 

And, truth be told, as the wetlands in Van Long have not been fully studied, it is also likely to be an important site for migratory waterbirds, such as the ginseng bird (Fulicra atra). 

Above: Ginseng bord (coot)

One notable resident in Van Long is the Bonelli’s eagle (Hieraaetus fasciatus). 

To date, Van Long is the only place that has accurately recorded this eagle species in Vietnam. 

Above: A Bonelli’s eagle

Not only a nature reserve, Van Long is also a place with attractive landscapes. 

Van Long is known as “the bay without waves“, because when travelling on a boat on the lagoon, visitors will see the water surface as flat as a giant mirror, as still as an ink landscape painting.

Above: Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve

Van Long area has a thousand beautiful caves.

Particularly, Ca Cave is very beautiful and is the gathering and breeding place of catfish, perch, and banana fish. 

Shadow Cave is another beautiful cave worth seeing.

Above: Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve

Adjacent to Van Long conservation area, there is also the Van Long tourist service area, an impressive architectural complex. 

This is the resting place of tourists in their mid-migrations. 

Van Long Lagoon is a unique eco-tourism destination, attracting tourists from France, Korea and Japan. 

In the vicinity of Van Long area, there are many famous historical and cultural attractions, such as: 

  • Dinh Bo Linh Temple  

Above: Dinh Bo Linh Temple; Ninh Binh, Vietnam

Đinh Bộ Lĩnh (924–979) (r. 968–979) was the first Vietnamese emperor following the liberation of the country from the rule of the Chinese Southern Han Dynasty, as well as the founder of the short-lived Dinh Dynasty and a significant figure in the establishment of Vietnamese independence and political unity in the 10th century.

He unified Vietnam by defeating 12 rebellious warlords and became the first emperor of Vietnam.

Upon his ascension, he renamed the country Đại Cồ Việt.

Above: A statue of emperor Đinh Tiên Hoàng in Hoa Lu, Vietnam

Đinh Bộ Lĩnh was born in 924 in Hoa Lu (south of the Red River Delta in what is today Ninh Binh Province).

Growing up in a local village during the disintegration of the Chinese Tang Dynasty that had dominated Vietnam for centuries, Đinh Bộ Lĩnh became a local military leader at a very young age.

Above: Statue of Dinh Bô Linh

From this turbulent era, the first independent Vietnamese polity emerged when the warlord Ngô Quyèn defeated the Southern Han’s forces in the First Battle of the Bach Dang River in 938.

However, the Ngô Dynasty was weak and unable to effectively unify Vietnam.

Faced with the domestic anarchy produced by the competition of 12 feudal warlords for control of the country, as well as the external threat represented by Southern Han, which regarded itself as the heir to the ancient kingdom of Nan Yue that had encompassed not only southern China but also the Bac Bo region of northern Vietnam, Đinh Bộ Lĩnh sought a strategy to politically unify the Vietnamese.

Above: Map of the occupation of 12 ambassadors

Upon the death of the last Ngô king in 965, he seized power and founded a new kingdom the capital of which was in his home district of Hoa Lu.

Above: Landscape of the ancient capital of Hoa Lu

To establish his legitimacy in relation to the previous dynasty, he married a woman of the Ngô family.

Above: Dinh Bo Linh statue, HCMC, Vietnam

In the first years of his reign, Đinh Bộ Lĩnh was especially careful to avoid antagonizing Southern Han.

In 968, however, he took the provocative step of adopting the title of Emperor (Hoàng Đế) and thereby declaring his independence from Chinese overlordship.

He founded the Đinh Dynasty and called his kingdom Dai Cô Viêt.

Above: Thai Binh Hung Bao coin – the first money in Vietnam 

His outlook changed, however, when the powerful Song Dynasty annexed Southern Han in 971.

In 972, Đinh Bộ Lĩnh ingratiated himself with the Song by sending a tribute mission to demonstrate his fealty to the Chinese Emperor. 

Emperor Taizu of Song subsequently recognized the Viet ruler as Giao Chi Quận Vương (King of Giao Chi), a title which expressed a theoretical relationship of vassalage in submission to the Empire.

Above: Dinh Bô Linh Temple, Hoa Lu Cave

Well aware of Song’s military might, and eager to safeguard the independence of his country, Đinh Bộ Lĩnh obtained a non-aggression agreement in exchange for tributes payable to the Chinese court every three years.

Above: Tomb of King Dinh in the ancient capital of Hoa Lu

  • Hoa Lu Cave

Above: Ancient temple near Hoa Lu Cave

Hoa Lu Cave was the first base of the military envoy Dinh Bo Linh for the unification of Vietnam in the 10th century.

The cave is located about 15 km north of the ancient capital of Hoa Lu and 20 km from Ninh Binh City by road.

The cave is in an exposed valley of about 16 acres surrounded by arc mountains. 

The four sides of Hoa Lu Cave are surrounded by extremely solid rocks, with only one entrance, a small cave about 30 m high. 

Outside the cave is Cut Lagoon, about 3 km long and 500m wide, like a natural moat. 

From here you can row, row, row your boat to Day River.

Above: Cut Lagoon

  • Dich Long Pagoda Cave

Above: Dich Long Pagoda

Dich Long Cave and Pagoda is a famous tourist destination of Ninh Binh Province.

It is a temple built 80 metres up a karst tower also named Dich Long.

Dich Long Cave and Pagoda is located in Gia Thanh Hamlet, Gia Vien District, Ninh Binh Province, near National Highway 1A.

Above: Dich Long Pagoda

According to one legend the cave was found out in 1739 by a woodcutter.

He created an altar after seeing stalactites that look like Buddha inside the cave.

In 1740, the Pagoda was established.

Tourist coming to Dich Long will be surprised by a large number of unique architecture: a temple for worship, a crescent lake, five three-storey towers and three lower temples.

Especially noteworthy are three statues of Buddha, which have historical value.

The bell tower is in the main gate with the rocky columns.

Engraved stone is the characteristic feature.

The stone temple behind the bell tower, for worshiping Saint Nguyen Minh Khong, contains five compartments.

The eight monolithic stone columns are huge at 4 metres high.

The giant dragons were carved on these columns winding through the clouds.

The engraving is so sophisticated that people may imagine that the dragons seem to be flying up.

The other eight column are 3 metres high and engraved with Chinese characters which concisely but profoundly glorify the beauty of this place.

The tourists will not find other temples made of precisely engraved bluestone on their Ninh Binh Province tour.

This temple is unique.

Above: Dich Long Pagoda

On the left side of the stone temple is the Buddha Garden.

All the stone Buddha statues in this Garden were made by master craftsmen.

The Garden creates the sacred atmosphere of Dich Long Pagoda.

Behind the stone temple is the three-compartment lower pagoda.

The pagoda is on the halfway mark to the top of the mountain.

This pagoda is related to many historical events.

The Temple still bears the traces of war.

During the anti-French resistance, Dich Long Pagoda was the shelter of the people and the victim of bombing raids.

Above: Dich Long Pagoda

From the main pagoda, continue to climb 105 stone steps to the cave divided into three areas: the Buddha Cave, the Dark Cave and the Light Cve.

Many stalactites look like sacred animals changing with the light into forms such as dragons, elephants, etc.

This always strongly impresses visitors coming here.

Above: Dich Long Cave

There are three caves beneath the temple, to the right is a chamber with stalactites, stalagmites, and Buddha statues which is used for prayers.

To the left is a cave called Toi or Dark Grotto.

It is famous for a huge stalagmite resembling a woman’s breast.

Above: Dark Grotto

Behind this cave is the Sang or Light Grotto which has a wide opening so the light and the wind can enter the cave.

When a breeze plays on the conical stalagmites, they sound like flutes.

This explains the name Dich Long, which translates literally Flute Wind.

Every year there is a great festival at the Temple, on the 6th and 7th of March.

There are religious elements like worshipping Buddha and thurification (the act of burning incense) and there is entertainment, like performing kylin dances, dragon dances, a chess tournament, a competition in writing Han scripts, and more.

Above: Dich Long Pagoda Cave

Near Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve, the Emeralda Ninh Binh Resort includes 51 villas with 170 4-star bedrooms, 116 standard rooms, 36 deluxe rooms and 10 duplex suites, as well as restaurants, bars, spa and fitness centres, two swimming pools, tennis courts, event areas, conference rooms and babysitting areas.

Where Delacour’s langurs rest is never discussed.

Above: Emeralda Ninh Binh Resort

 

It is hard not to be won over by the mystical watery beauty of the Tam Coc “Three Caves” region, which is effectively a miniature landlocked version of Ha Long Bay.

Above: Tam Coc, Vietnam

The film Indochine helped to put it on the tourist map, and both good and bad have come of its burgeoning popularity – access roads have been improved, though some of the canal banks themselves have been lined with concrete.

In addition, Tam Coc has become relentlessly commercial, with many travellers having a wonderful day spoiled by hard-sell antics at the end of their trip.

Despite the overzealous – occasionally aggressive – peddling of embroideries and soft drinks by the rowers, the two-hour sampan-ride is a definite highlight, especially as the men and women row with their feet and make it look easy.

Above: Tam Coc

Boat rides on traditional sampans are the highlight in Tam Coc, meandering through dumpling-shaped karst hills in a flooded landscape where the river and rice paddies merge serenely into one.

Keep an eye open for mountain goats high on the cliffs and bright darting kingfishers in the waters.

Journey’s end is Tam Coc, three long, dark tunnel-caves (Hang Ca, Hang Giua and Hang Cuoi) eroded through the limestone hills with barely sufficient clearance for the sampan after heavy rains.

Above: Tam Coc

The Tam Coc – Bich Dong tourist region currently has a natural area of 350.3 hectares and is located 2 km from National Highway 1, 7 km from Ninh Binh City, 9 km from Tam Diep City. 

Pick-up centers are distributed at the following points:

  • Tam Coc
  • Co Vien Lau
  • Nang valley 
  • Nham valley
  • Bich Dong Pagoda
  • Mua Cave

The Tam Coc – Bich Dong tourist region includes:

  • Cruises: Van Lam wharf – Ngo Dong River – Tam Coc / Bich Dong / Sunshine Valley
  • Tourist attractions: Bich Dong Mountain and Pagoda / Tien Cave / Mua Cave / the ancient house of Co Vien Lau / Thai Vi Temple / Thien Huong cave

Above: Tam Coc

Tam Coc, which means “three caves“, includes Ca Cave, Hai Cave and Ba Cave. 

All three caves were formed by the Ngo Dong River crashing through the mountain. 

  • Ca Cave is a 127 metre long incursion through a large mountain. The mouth of the cave is over 20 metres wide. Bring a sweater as the cave can be quite chilly. Many stalactites of various shapes hang down.
  • Hang Hai, nearly 1 km from Ca Cave, is 60 metres long. The ceiling of the cave has many strange hanging stalactites.
  • Hang Ba, near Hang Hai, is 50 metres long. The ceiling of this cave is like a stone arch and lower than the other two caves.

Wanting to visit Tam Coc, visitors can get off the boat from the central wharf. 

Boats take tourists on the Ngo Dong River that winds past cliffs, water caves, and rice fields. 

The travel time is about 2 hours. 

The scenery of Tam Coc, especially the shores of the Ngo Dong River, can change according to the rice season (green rice, golden rice or the silver colour of the water in the fields).

Above: Tam Coc

The beauty of Tam Coc comes from the intricate maze of mountains, river valleys and wetlands that have let it be nicknamed “the inland Ha Long Bay“.

Above: Ha Long Bay

The main river boat tour is a must – a roughly two-mile thoroughfare through Vietnam’s live action version of Avatar’s planet Pandora.

As your rickety tin sampan boat further rows up the sleepy Ga Dong River, the landscape becomes ever more mysterious, it is then that you comprehend the irony that the natural complexity of your surroundings is what makes you appreciate the simplicity of its feel.

Like Huckleberry Finn drifting down the muddy Mississippi River, the traveller is without a care, alone with only thoughts as companions.

On the way back, you can ask to stop at Thai Vi Temple, a short walk from the river.

Dating from the 13th century and dedicated to the founder of the Tran Dynasty, it’s a peaceful, atmospheric spot.

Thai Vi Temple is the place to pay homage to kings, generals, and a queen. 

The Tam Coc mountain area was the place where the Tran dynasty came to set up Vu Lam Palace in the resistance war against the Nguyen Mong. 

Thai Vi Temple can be reached by foot from Tam Coc or by road 2 km from Tam Coc boat station.

Above: Thai Vi Temple

King Tran Thai Tong (r. 1255 – 1258) started the construction of Vu Lam Palace on an elevation near Ca Cave. 

During the construction of the amphitheatre, Thai Vi recruited exiles to reclaim and establish hamlets, expand roads, embellish key places, and prepare against invasion. 

Many important court meetings were held here. 

Above: Tomb of Tran Thai Tong in Long Hung, Thai Binh

During the second resistance war against the Nguyen Mong Empire in 1285, the Vu Lam Hanh Palace area became a solid base of the Tran army and people.

On 7 May 1285, the year of the Rooster, the two kings Tran Thanh Tong and Tran Nhan Tong defeated a part of the Mongol-Yuan army here, “beheading and cutting off the enemy’s ears unspeakably“. 

The battle took place in the Thien Duong limestone valley. 

Above: Vu Lam

In the middle of the valley, there is Cua Ma Field and the nearby Valley of Tombs, so named because there are many graves here and locals still call this valley a “war ground“. 

The battle quickly swept the Mongols out from Dai Viet, once again showing that Truong Yen was not only the imperial capital but also the land of the Vietnamese Emperor.

Above: Cua Ma

In addition to its strategic position, the Vu Lam palace area is also a place filled with majestic beautiful nature. 

Tran Thai Tong compared this place to a fairy land:

The eternal water consciousness of Bong Lai, 

Valley of the moon and moon of the mortal world.

Above: Vu Lam

The book “Khâm Định Đại Việt su tong muong muc” speaks more clearly:

Here the mountains overlap.

There are caves in the mountain guts.

The mountain circumference is as wide as the mountains.

Outside there is a small river winding and winding, connecting to the mountains.

Small boats can be carried in.

Above: Vu Lam

There is a description of Vu Lam’s palace, in the poem Vu Lam Thu Van (Autumn afternoon in Vu Lam). 

Tran Nhan Tong wrote: 

The slot is printed upside down for the suspension ball

Sneeze at the edge of the crevice of the sun

Quietly a thousand young, falling red leaves

Clouds spread like a distant bell

Above: Vu Lam

After the first resistance war against the Mongol invaders (1258), 40-year-old King Tran Thai Tong ceded the throne to his son and returned to the Truong Yen mountains to establish the Vu Lam palace base.

King Tran Thanh Tong also built a number of other palaces here and made a road from Van Lam village to the Palace, and had built a stone dragon bridge across the Ngo Dong River over Dragon Culvert.

Vu Lam Palace was the first Buddhist monk monastic home of Emperor Tran Nhan Tong. 

Above: Print version of the King’s philosophical theory of Buddhism, written in 1260

Dai Viet historical recorder Toan Thu wrote in the 7th month of the year of the Horse (1294):

The emperor came to Vu Lam to visit the rock cave.

The stone mountain gate is narrow.

The emperor sat in a small boat with the queen empress Tuyen Tu at the stern.

Above: The King’s visit

In the year of the Cat (1295), the Dai Viet historical record reads:

In the summer, in June, the emperor returned to the scriptures.

Having left home, to Vu Lam palace he returned again.” 

Vu Lam served as a palace for at least 41 years (1258 – 1299). 

Above: Vu Lam

In front of the temple, there is a jade well built of green stone. 

Behind the temple is the Cam Son rock mountain range. 

Outside of Nghi Mon, there are two horses made of monolithic green stone on both sides. 

Through Nghi Mon, there is a steeple made of ironwood, while the roof is tiled. 

Here hangs a bell cast from the 19th year of Chinh Hoa.

Opposite the steeple along the main road is a stele tower and three steles erected on either side. 

The four-sided stele records the merits of those who have contributed to the construction of the temple. 

The main road and the dragon yard are paved with green stone. 

The dragon yard is about 40 square metres wide. 

On both sides of the dragon yard are two rows of Vong houses – where the ancestors discussed the sacrifices in the past. 

From the dragon yard, follow the stone steps ascending to a height of 1.2m to reach the Five Great Gate (five large doors) with six parallel rows of round stone columns all carved with the dragon king embossed in front. 

The outside of the stone columns are carved with parallel sentences of Chinese characters. 

The verandas are also made of stone, carved with two dragons adoring the moon.

Through the five large doors, there are five majestic Bai Duong pavilions.

There are also six square stone columns carved with parallel sentences on the outside, embossed on the other sides with all manner of beasts. 

Next are three Trung Duong pavilions with two rows of round stone columns, each row with four columns, all carved with dragon clouds. 

Here is put into the stone – incense. 

The two sides have a pair of wooden cranes more than two metres high with two sets of gold medallions. 

Through Trung Duong in the Chinh Tam Pavilion, there are also eight round stone columns carved with relief. 

Above: Nghi Mon

Thai Vi Am remains to this day is an area of ​​about six acres wide, surrounded by earthen ramparts, in the middle of which is a temple.

In the middle of the Palace are statues of kings (Tran Thai Tong, Tran Thanh Tong, Tran Nhan Tong, Tran Anh Tong), of generals (Tran Hung Dao, Tran Quang Khai) and of a queen (Thuan Thien). 

On the left and right are two bronze statues of females standing in service of the King. 

At the Thai Vi temple ruins, there is a small temple where King Tran Thai Tong stayed to practice his faith in the last years of his life.

Above: Thai Vi

Thai Vi Temple Festival is held from the 14th to the 17th day of the 3rd lunar month to commemorate the merits of the first kings of the Tran Dynasty. 

The procession is led by a drum carried by two people, one who wears a robe and a swallow’s hat, followed by five people holding flags.

Then there is a palanquin with bowls of tribute on it, with images of the kings, queens, or princesses of the Tran dynasty, accompanied by the scent of incense and flowers. 

The palanquin has a very beautiful, swinging red umbrella. 

Next is a palanquin of four people carrying offerings of flowers and fruits. 

The palanquin procession at Thai Vi Temple is not one group, but more than 30 groups.  

On the morning of 14 March, a palanquin from the roads in the district and province is carried to Thai Vi temple in the jubilant atmosphere of the festival. 

The palanquins are all gorgeously painted with gilded lipstick as young people dress up according to the old festival customs.

Sacrifice is an important ritual, held in front of the temple. 

The priesthood consisting of 15 to 20 people carry out the incense and drink. 

The chief priest reads literature and recites the song of praise and merit of King Tran Thai Tong. 

After each sacrifice, a man plays the lute and a woman explains the ca tru way.

As part of the festival, there are games, such as the lion dance, the dragon dance, human chess, wrestling, boating, and, oh, the fun you will have!

Above: Thai Vi

Located deep in the mountainous area of Trang An​​, visitors sit in traditional boats steered by local people, and experience a close connection with nature, feel the pure and splendid beauty of caves and strange rocks, and learn of the golden features of the nation’s history in the process of building and defending the country. 

Above: Trang An

From Trang An wharf, about 15 minutes by boat through Lam Cave, you can enter Noi Lam Valley. 

Above: Noi Lam Valley

Here, the Vietnam Institute of Archeology excavated and explored the valley and found thousands of artifacts on the surface and in the dug holes. 

Dr. Le Thi Lien of the Vietnam Institute of Archeology said:

After a period of excavation and archaeological survey of Noi Lam valley – a place belonging to Vu Lam palace of Tran dynasty, archaeologists have discovered many remarkable vestiges, such as:

  • traces of clay-containing areas for ceramic materials
  • traces of trees in the black mud
  • traces of stone embankment road or water wharf
  • traces of the embankment

This result shows the possibility of pottery production in this area. 

In addition, there are relics obtained with 5,525 fragments lying on the surface and 940 pieces of relics of all kinds appearing in the dug holes. 

Through research, analysis has discovered many relics of great value: architectural decorative pieces, glazed ceramics, earthenware, lumps of rice, coal-fired rice.

Archaeologists hypothesize that this area was the production site of glazed ceramics in the Tran Dynasty. 

The discovery of traces of clay material reserve and remnants of waste shows the possibility of pottery production here.

Located in the middle of Noi Lam valley, by Tien Stream, there are temples paying homage to the kings and mandarins of the Tran dynasty. 

Truong Han Sieu was a famous artist and guest. 

He had a strong character, a profound education, and made great contributions to the 2nd and 3rd resistance wars against the Yuan Mongols. 

During the period when King Tran Nhan Tong returned to this land to practice his faith, Truong Han Sieu also retired to this hermitage and set up a monastery to practice in his hometown of Ninh Binh. 

This is why Truong Han Sieu is also honoured at this relic by the people.

Above: Temple of Truong Han Sieu on Non Nuoc Mountain, Ninh Binh

Be mindful when choosing your boat to stay clear of those with boxes, as these usually mean that your rower will haggle you endlessly until you have purchased something from them – it can ruin your relaxing ride if you do not wish to buy something.

Also, be aware that hawkers will sometimes convince you to buy a drink for your guide/rower, however, your oarsmen or women will quickly sell this back to them for half the price once you have left.

Above: Trang An

The landscape here is flat, so bike riding through the rice fields is recommended and makes you feel like you are in a movie scene.

Ride at ease whilst taking in the breathtaking views and lush green colours.

Ride through bamboo-lined village roads to learn about the culture and customs of farmers in wet rice areas.

Imagine being a shepherd, herding buffalo, slapping fish, catching crabs, grinding rice and pounding rice, enjoying rustic dishes, such as grilled perch, crab soup with salted eggplant….

Above: Trang An

Thien Duong Cave, located on the road from Ngo Dong River to Thai Vi Temple, is a dry and bright cave located halfway up the mountain at an altitude of about 15 metres. 

The cave is about 60 m high, 40 m deep, and 20 m wide. 

The top of the cave is hollow, so the cave is also called Troi Cave

Nestled in the cave is a shrine dedicated to Tran Thi Dung, the wife of King Ly Hue Tong, and said to be the person who taught the people of Ninh Hai Commune the craft of embroidery.

Above: Thien Duong Cave

Indochine intends to be the French Gone With The Wind, a story of romance and separation, told against the backdrop of a ruinous war.

The French, of course, have their own ways of approaching such epic topics, and this movie is heavier on boudoirs and chic, lighter on bluster and battle, than our North American classics.

The French are really good at translating any tragic history into a relationship between men and women.

Indochine is also curiously inconclusive, leading up to a final meeting that never takes place.

There are many good things in this film, not least the sense of time and place:

French Indochina, later Vietnam, from the years of colonial calm to the days when the French withdrew and the beautiful country became an American trauma.

This period is largely seen through the eyes of the owner of a French plantation (Catherine Deneuve), her adopted Vietnamese daughter (Linh Dan Pham) and the daughter’s son, who is raised mostly in France by Deneuve after the mother becomes a revolutionary.

Above: Éliane and daughter

There is always something bittersweet and decadent about the dying days of colonial regimes.

The old customs have outlasted their times, and yet people go through the motions, their manners and folkways reflecting a certain stubborn pride.

They are yesterday’s people, not ready to admit it.

You get that feeling in films like White Mischief and A Passage to India and you get it here, too, as the Deneuve character strides fearlessly among her plantation workers, who may, for all she knows, be Communists preparing an uprising.

She is protected by the invisible shield of decades of French rule.

Her society is a decadent one.

She looks cool and elegant, and is dressed in understated tropical chic, but from time to time she has a Chinese retainer prepare her an opium pipe, and she is not above a sudden rush of passion with a handsome young French Naval officer (Vincent Perez).

He, alas, then falls in love with Deneuve’s beautiful young adopted daughter, and betrays the values of his officer class to embrace the rising tide of anticolonial rebellion.

The photography is the star of this movie.

As the two young lovers run away, hoping to hide themselves in the countless islands of a secret lake, a vast long shot shows their boat as a speck surrounded by magnificent landscape.

Many other shots show an architecture in harmony with the land and the climate, the outdoors sensed from indoors, the walls and windows slatted or curtained so that all life seems partly exhibitionism.

Through this film, Deneuve drifts like an angel.

She is as beautiful as ever, in the role of a lifetime – she spans decades, yet never ages, and the problem is not to make her seem young for the early scenes but old enough for the later ones.

Her serenity in the face of crisis is perhaps too perfect:

A grittier, earthier woman might have connected better with the realities of the country.

Here we get a Scarlett in her gowns but not a Scarlett who grubs for potatoes.

The screenplay does the film no favors.

It is long and discursive and not very satisfying.

After a grand melodrama like this, we expect an ending more satisfactory than the epilogue in Geneva, with Deneuve and her grandson awaiting the daughter and the Vietnamese revolutionary committee.

Of course, the story of Vietnam did not end at that point, and so perhaps the story of this movie cannot either.

Above: Linh Dan Pham (Camille)

Indochine is an ambitious, gorgeous missed opportunity – too slow, too long, too composed.

It is not a successful film, and yet there is so much good in it that perhaps it’s worth seeing anyway.

The beauty, the photography, the impact of the scenes shot on location in Vietnam, are all striking.

But the people seem to drift and waver in their focus.

The film seems to suggest that the French still do not quite understand what happened to them in Vietnam.

Well, they’re not alone.

You have to forget this man, Lili.

I’ll never understand French love stories.

They’re all about madness, fury, suffering.

They’re similar to our war stories.

You know the secret.

I’ve told you already.

Yes, I know.

Indifference.

The French ideology of freedom and equality was completely absent in French colonial rule, specifically Indochina.

In the early 20th century before World War II, the French colonized the Indochina region, known today as Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos.

During their rule, the military and police forces emphasized the importance of their empire, taking any and all means to defend it.

The film Indochine addresses the exploitation of native subjects in Indochina around 1930, and focuses on the transformation of the region under a political revolution. 

Above: Indochina, Le Monde Illustré, 28 March 1891

Indochine is a film set in 1930 French Indochina revolving around Éliane, a wealthy French rubber farm owner, Camille, a Vietnamese princess adopted by Éliane, and Jean-Baptiste, an officer in the French Navy.

Eliane and Jean Baptiste have a hidden romance in the beginning of the film, but after Camille is almost killed by a misdirected bullet, the story shifts to Camille and Jean-Baptiste.

Camille believes Jean Baptiste saves her life and after Jean Baptiste is reassigned to a remote post on the coast, Camille leaves everything behind to find Jean Baptiste.

When Camille is saved by Jean Baptiste, she discovers the horrors of French rule and revolts, killing a French Navy officer and escaping with Jean Baptiste.

The film does a fantastic job portraying the cruelty of French rule and their mistreatment of natives, lack of compassion, and the complete absence of “equality” when dealing with the Vietnamese population.

Although Eliane and Jean-Baptiste save Camille and often help natives, they too have moments of exploitation, showing their true backgrounds.

Five scenes in the film stand out as best representing French Indochina and the role race and power played in colonial rule. 

The prince Nguyen, his wife, and I were inseparable.

Maybe this is what youth is all about.

Believing the world is made of inseparable things.

Men and women, mountains and plains, human beings and gods, Indochina and France.”

Éliane says this in the opening scene when she is being driven by her Indian driver to her estate and plantation.

She is discussing the relationship between France and Indochina, and the imperative role it plays in the shape of her country.

In this scene, she is wearing pristine clothing in her expensive car, being driven through her rubber farm, watching all the Vietnamese workers producing rubber for her.

Throughout the film, there are rarely scenes where native people in the background are seen smiling or lively.

The only times any natives look healthy are scenes including royalty or elites.

In much the same manner as Indochine, vlogs about Vietnam all seem to focus on the wealthy and privileged foreign traveller rather than the locals who make up the bulk of the nation the foreigner is visiting.

When Éliane is saying France and Indochina are inseparable, she is only considering her French perspective, a common aspect of colonial ideology.

Even for her own daughter, Éliane often shows delusion when it comes to how white colonists see Vietnamese people.

There is a scene where Éliane is informed that her daughter Camille is being verbally attacked for being Vietnamese, but she doesn’t seem to be too concerned.

Even though Camille was raised by a wealthy French woman, society still views her as contaminated and lower class. 

Another significant scene that uncovers the French officials’ true nature is when Jean-Baptiste sets fire to a native family’s boat.

Jean-Baptiste’s Navy vessel finds a small wooden boat in the delta after an 8 pm curfew and even though everyone else on the Navy ship thinks it is a genuine mistake, Jean Baptiste orders a sailor to light the Vietnamese boat on fire.

When they are sailing away from the fireball on the water, a sailor confronts Jean Baptiste:   

Sailor:

They’ll drown!

Are you proud of yourself?

Are you proud of your victory?” 

Jean Baptiste:

I followed the rules.

You can have generosity and leniency.

No one will get inside my head and steal my soul, no one!

Not even eternal Asia, no one!” 

This encounter revealed Jean Baptiste’s character as the stereotypical colonial official, showing no empathy or compassion for native deaths.

I followed the rules” is a common psychological mindset where shifting blame is simple if one didn’t actually make the decision, but rather followed an order.

This is prevalent in war, and of course imperialism, making accountability for actions far more vague and impossible.

Jean Baptiste also alludes to Asia having a soul of its own.

Europeans viewed outsiders as uncivilized and wild, and being further from the homeland can alter someone’s perspective of the world.

This concept was introduced by Joseph Conrad in Heart of Darknesswhere the protagonist spirals into madness when he sails further into the Congo.

Indochine addresses the same concept and uses it as an excuse for Jean Baptiste to potentially kill an innocent Vietnamese family. 

This lack of compassion was apparent in most of the film, but usually not by Éliane.

As discussed earlier, Éliane does have a view of the world where France and Indochina are inseparable because they mutually help one another.

This, however, is a mindset ingrained and innocent to her.

Later in the film, her rubber factory is set on fire and all her workers are outside refusing to return: 

Head worker:

They set fire.

It’s not an accident.

We couldn’t stop the fire.

All the rubber burned.” 

Éliane: “When can we get back to work?” 

Head worker: “Tomorrow, I think.” 

Éliane: “Why not now? 

Head worker: “They don’t want to go inside.

They say they’ll be shot.” 

Éliane: “By whom?” 

Native: “Boom, danger! No work!” 

Éliane is clearly outraged by not only the fact that her plantation is ablaze, but also that her Vietnamese workers aren’t risking their lives for her money.

She shows absolutely no concern for the natives and instead of trying to extinguish the fire, she runs into the factory to show it is temporarily safe.

Of course the workers don’t really have a say so they follow her into the building with fear and despair.

The French had different stereotypes for certain ethnicities.

Indochinese people in particular were considered to be weaker but smarter, so during the war they often had background assistant work.

This film shows how Éliane and French officials felt physically superior to the workers and would often manhandle them into groups.   

The pivotal scene in the film is when Camille shoots the Navy officer in the head.

Camille escapes Saigon to find Jean Baptiste and during her journey, she meets a Vietnamese family of four.

After running through the countryside encountering endless natives struggling to survive, she finally finds Jean Baptiste at a slave auction.

The French call it a working post, but earlier in the film an officer explicitly states it is a slave auction for Vietnamese workers.

After Jean Baptiste identifies Camille, Camille sees Sao, the mother, and the rest of the family dead in chains on the water.

Camille is horrified and when the Navy tries to capture her, she shoots the head officer in the head and escapes with Jean Baptiste.

What is interesting in this scene is the conversation between the French officials prior to Camille’s arrival.

The French officials’ main fear is a revolt and riot, which they believe would crumble the Empire.

This was a legitimate fear imperialists had when colonizing new lands.

It was apparent in many other colonies in Asia and Africa. 

The final scene is about Camille’s former husband’s statement to his mother.

After deciding that he will leave Saigon to fight for Vietnamese freedom, he tells his mother:

Camille is free.

It’s her life and she doesn’t owe anything to anyone.

Obedience made slaves out of us.

The French taught me the words “freedom” and “equality.”

That’s how I’ll fight them.

This quote is the only time French ideology is explicitly addressed in the film and fascinatingly by a Vietnamese native talking about fighting against France.

He understands the hypocrisy of French ideology, and sees that it is only freedom and equality for themselves.

Above: Vietnamese-style seal of the Government-General of French Indochina

A passage in Race and War in France states:

Colonial subjects, the thinking went, owed France a “blood tax” in return for the privilege of living under enlightened French rule.

The French believed their colonial rule itself was a way of helping the natives, so freedom and equality were granted to them under enlightenment.

It didn’t matter to the French whether the Indochina natives were equal to them, but rather the natives received guidance to become more civilized.

Camille’s husband realizes how absurd French ideology is, so he ridicules the French by saying true freedom and equality will destroy French colonies. 

These scenes in Indochine show how French ideology was completely disregarded and contradicted in French Indochina.

The film addresses many issues regarding exploitation, racism, and inhumane practices by European imperialists in their colonies, and how they contributed to their eventual downfall. 

Indochine is narrated by Éliane Devries (Catherine Deneuve), a woman born to French parents in colonial Indochina.

It is told through flashbacks.

In 1930, Éliane runs her and her widowed father’s large rubber plantation with many indentured laborers, whom she casually refers to as her coolies.

She divides her days between her homes at the plantation and outside Saigon.

She is also the adoptive mother of Camille (Linh Dan Pham), whose birth parents were friends of Éliane‘s and members of the Nguyên Dynasty.

Guy Asselin (Jean Yanne), the head of the French security services in Indochina, courts Éliane, but she rejects him and raises Camille alone giving her the education of a privileged European through her teens.

Éliane meets a young French Navy lieutenant, Jean-Baptiste Le Guen (Vincent Pérez), when they bid on the same painting at an auction.

She is flustered when he challenges her publicly and surprised when he turns up at her plantation days later, searching for a boy whose sampan he set ablaze on suspicion of opium smuggling.

Éliane and Jean-Baptiste begin a torrid affair.

Camille meets Jean-Baptiste by chance one day when he rescues her from a terrorist attack.

Believing him to have saved her life, Camille falls in love with Jean-Baptiste at first sight, while Jean-Baptiste has no inkling of Camille‘s relation to Éliane.

When Éliane learns of Camille‘s love for Jean-Baptiste, she uses her connections with high-ranking Navy officials to get Jean-Baptiste transferred to Haiphong.

And I didn’t know.

I hadn’t wanted to see, that she was in love, the way one loves the first time.

Nothing would stop her.

Jean-Baptiste angrily confronts Éliane about his transfer during a Christmas party at her home, resulting in a heated argument where he slaps her in front of his fellow officers.

For his transgression, Jean-Baptiste is sent to the notorious Dragon Islet (Hòn Rồng), a remote French military base in northern Indochina.

Éliane allows Camille to become engaged to Thanh (Eric Nguyen), a pro-Communist Vietnamese boy expelled as a student from France because of his support for the 1930 Yên Bái Mutiny.

A sympathetic Thanh allows Camille to search for Jean-Baptiste up north.

Above: Eric Nguyen

Camille travels on foot and eventually makes it to Dragon Islet, where she and a Vietnamese family she travels with are imprisoned alongside other labourers.

When Camille comes across the sight of her travelling companions brutally tortured and murdered by French officers, she attacks a French officer and shoots him in the struggle.

Jean-Baptiste defies his superiors to protect Camille in the ensuing firefight.

The two set sail and escape Dragon Islet as outlaws.

After spending several days adrift in the Gulf of Tonkin, Camille and Jean-Baptiste reach land and are taken in by a Communist theatre troupe, who offers the couple refuge in a secluded valley.

After several months, Camille has become pregnant with Jean-Baptiste’s child, but are told they must vacate the valley out of safety.

Thanh, now a high-ranking Communist operative, arranges for the theatre troupe to smuggle the lovers into China.

Guy attempts to use operatives to quell the growing insurrections by labourers and to locate Camille and Jean-Baptiste, without success.

Camille and Jean-Baptiste‘s story becomes a celebrated legend in tuong performances by Vietnamese actors, earning Camille the popular nickname “the Red Princess“.

When the couple nears the Chinese border, Jean-Baptiste takes his and Camille‘s newborn son to baptize him in a river while she is asleep.

After christening the baby Étienne, he is ambushed and apprehended by several French soldiers.

A distraught Camille evades capture and escapes with the theatre troupe, while French authorities remand Jean-Baptiste to a Saigon jail and hand Étienne over to Éliane.

After some days in prison, Jean-Baptiste agrees to talk if he can first see his son.

The Navy, which has authority over the case and refuses to subject Jean-Baptiste to interrogation by the police, plans to court-martial Jean-Baptiste in Brest, France, to avoid the public outcry that would likely arise from a trial in Indochina.

Jean-Baptiste is allowed a 24-hour visitation with Étienne before being taken to France.

He goes to see Éliane, who lets him stay with Étienne at her Saigon residence for the night.

The next day, Éliane finds Jean-Baptiste dead in his bed with a gunshot to his temple, a gun in hand, and an unharmed Étienne.

Outraged, Éliane tells Guy she suspects the police murdered him, but Guy‘s girlfriend tells Éliane that the Communists may have killed Jean-Baptiste to silence him.

With no evidence sought for either suspicion, Jean-Baptiste‘s death is ruled a suicide.

Camille is captured and sent to Poulo Condor – a high security prison where visitors are not permitted and not even Éliane or Guy can help free her.

Above: Paulo Condor Prison

Above: Exhibit in Paulo Condor prison

After five years, the Popular Front comes to power and releases all political prisoners, including Camille.

Éliane reunites with Camille, but she declines to return to her mother and son, choosing instead to join the Communists and fight for Vietnam’s independence.

Above: Flag of the Viet Cong

Camille reasons she does not wish for her son to know the horrors she has witnessed.

She tells her mother that French colonialism is drawing to an end.

Taking Étienne with her, Éliane sells her plantation and leaves Indochina.

Above: Camille and Étienne

In 1954, Éliane finishes telling her story to a grown Étienne (Jean-Baptiste Huynh).

They have both come to Switzerland, where Camille is a Vietnamese Communist Party delegate to the Geneva Conference.

Étienne goes to the negotiators’ hotel intending to find his birth mother, but it is so crowded with people that he is not sure how Camille can find or recognize him.

He tells Éliane he sees her as his mother.

As the film concludes, an epilogue notes the next day, French Indochina becomes independent from France and Vietnam is partitioned into North and South Vietnam (leading, eventually, to the Vietnam War).

From Thach Bich wharf, sampans sail to Sunshine Valley. 

Beneath the clear cool water is a rich and lively fauna. 

Thung Nang still retains its wild features. 

Relax and feel comfortable in this quiet and pleasant space. 

When the boat is brought into the cave, you may feel cool.

The ceiling of the cave is very low, with stalactites of various shapes. 

In front of the cave are luxuriant reed bushes. 

Here, anchor the boat, rest, take pictures, and admire the beautiful scenery. 

The large valley still retains the pristine features that nature intended. 

Should fortune favour, perhaps you may see flocks of white storks surveying the wetland.

Above: Sunshine Valley

Crossing a waterway with whispering rice fields on both sides, overlapping mountains, you will pass Voi Temple. 

Continuing the journey, you will come to Thung Nang Cave (100 metres long), wherein is Thung Nang Temple. 

Above: Thung Nang Cave

The Temple was built in a quiet space, the back of the temple leaning on the sacred mountain, an ideal place to worship God. 

Above: Thung Nang

After Thung Nang, on the way back, visit Voi Temple. 

Voi Temple, built hundreds of years ago, of stone, is famous for its elaborately carved altars.

If you have time after the boat trip, follow the road leading southwest from the boat dock for about 2km to visit the cave-pagoda of Bich Dong, or “Jade Grotto“.

Stone-cut steps, entangled by the thick roots of banyan trees, lead up a cliff face peppered with shrines to the cave entrance, believed to have been discovered by two monks in the early 15th century.

On the rock face above, two giant characters declare “Bich Dong“.

Above: Bich Dong

The story goes that they were engraved in the 18th century by the father of Nguyen Du (author of the classic Tale of Kieu), who was entrusted with the construction of the complex.

The cave walls are now scrawled with graffiti, but the three Buddhas sit unperturbed on their lotus thrones beside a head-shaped rock which purportedly bestows longevity if touched.

Walk through the cave to emerge higher up the cliff, from where steps continue to the third and final temple and viewpoint over the waterlogged scene.

Above: Bich Dong Cave

Bich Dong means “green cave“, the name given to the Cave by Prime Minister Nguyen Nghiem, the father of the great poet Nguyen Du, in 1773.

Above: Statue of Nguyen Du (1766 – 1820)

The ancients called it “Nam Thien De Nhat Dong“, which means “the second most beautiful cave in the South” [behind Huong Tich Cave in Huong Son]. 

Bich Dong consists of a dry cave located halfway up the mountain and a water cave that pierces the mountain. 

In front of the water cave is a tributary of the Ngo Dong River winding by the side of the mountain.

Across the river are rice fields.

Above: Bich Dong

Xuyen Thuy Cave is the dark and flooded cave located along the length of the Bich Dong massif. 

Xuyen Thuy resembles a semicircular stone pipe about 350 metres long winding from east to west. 

The average width of Xuyen Thuy Dong is 6 metres, the widest place is 15 metres. 

The ceiling and walls of the cave are usually flat, creating a large stone slab like a dome, a semi-circle with various shapes.

The entrance to Xuyen Thuy Cave is at the back of the mountain, opposite the road to Bich Dong Pagoda. 

At the end of the journey through the water cave, visitors can climb the mountain to reach the dry cave and Bich Dong Pagoda.

Above: Xuyen Thuy Cave

Bich Dong Pagoda is an ancient temple, built at the beginning of the Hau Le dynasty. 

Inside the pagoda, there is a large bell cast during the reign of King Le Thai To, and the tombs of the monks who built the pagoda. 

In 1705, there were two monks Tri Kien and Tri The

Both monks were devout and wanted to go to many places to spread Buddhism and build temples. 

Seeing that Bich Dong Mountain has a beautiful terrain and already had a pagoda, the two monks decided to stop, repair the old pagoda by themselves, donate money to rebuild it into three pagodas, and to remain here to lead religious lives. 

In 1707, the two monks cast a large bell, which still hangs in Dark Cave. 

The Minh Bia song written on the bell is considered the inscription of the Pagoda’s stele, written in Chinese characters, including the passage:

Been up that mountain

Blessed, have grace

Open the mountain, cut the rock,

Pure Qi handed down

Above: Bich Dong

During the reign of Le Hien Tong (1740 – 1786), the pagoda was restored and expanded to include Lower Pagoda, Trung Pagoda, and Upper Pagoda, spread out across three mountain floors.

In the year of the Horse (1774), Lord Trinh Sam visited the Pagoda, looking out at the panorama of mountains, caves, rivers, fields and trees, the Pagoda seemed to converge on the green background, so he named the pagoda Bich Dong (green pearl grotto). 

Above: Bich Dong

Bich Dong Pagoda is an ancient architectural work, so like other temples built of ironwood, the roof is tiled with curved corners.

The blade, the shape of a phoenix’s tail, makes the roof undulating, flexible like tidal waves, looking like a spectacular dragon boat floating on water or like two wings of a bird flying up to Heaven.

Four mountains around the four seasons

The boat gently paddles racing

Waves crashing around the cave

Clouds pour over the temple scene

Above: Bich Dong

Bich Dong Pagoda was built in the style of “three“:

Three non-contiguous buildings, three levels along the mountainside, based on the mountain in position from low to high into three separate pagodas:

Lower, Middle and Upper. 

The Lower lies at the base.

The Middle is reached by stone-cut steps, entangled by the thick roots of banyan trees, that lead up the face of the cliff.

Enter the Dark Cave.

Walk through the Cave to emerge higher up the cliff, from where steps continue – you will need a flashlight/torch – to the third and final Upper Temple, from whence you can gaze at the universe below.

Above: Bich Dong

The unique thing of Bich Dong Pagoda is that the mountains, caves and pagodas complement each other, and are hidden among the great green trees, making the pagoda blend in with the exotic natural scenery. 

The panorama is a picture of majestic mountains and forests, inlaid with a bas-relief of ancient pagodas.

It was built on a high mountainside, where beneath lies Xuyen Thuy Cave.

Above: Bich Dong

From Trung (Lower) Pagoda, up six metres higher, is the Dark Cave, silent, solemn, slightly inclined to the east.

The way up to Dark Cave is almost vertical.

Go under the bridge and the cave gate looks like a rainbow. 

Above the cave door hangs the large bronze bell cast by the monks Tri Kien and Tri The in 1707.

Dark Cave is a long, wide space with electric lighting, creating the aura of a petrified fairy world. 

Near the door of Dark Cave are the statues of Buddha Amitabha, Manjushri Bodhisattva, and Guanyin Bodhisattva. 

The three Buddhas sit on lotus thrones beside a head-shaped rock.

The rock purportedly bestows longevity if touched.

So, touch the rock, live long, and prosper.

Above: Bich Dong

Above: Bich Dong

Inside the entrance of the Dark Cave, on the left, is a small cave, paying homage to Quan The Am Bodhisattva.

Within this small cave are stalactites like turtles and two strange rock blocks that sound like a muzzle, one rock the bass, the other its echo. 

Dark Cave is a natural temple, where one may hear the whisper of that quiet voice within.

One kilometre north of Bich Dong is beautiful Tien Cave, which is actually three large and wide high caves. 

The ceilings of the caves have many stone veins, stalactites drooping with colourful sparkles, looking like big tree roots. 

There are many bats and birds on the ceiling. 

From the outside, the cave looks like a magnificent castle. 

The changes of nature have created interesting shapes of stalactite in the shapes of trees, fairies, elephants, lions, tigers, iguanas, dragons, eagles, and colourful clouds. 

The stone blocks in the cave, when tapped, will create many strange and wondrous sounds.

Above: Tien Cave

Three kilometres north of Tam Coc, Mua Cave is not, in fact, worth the diversion, but rather it is the pagoda and the viewpoint from the hillside above the Cave that makes the journey worthwhile.

A punishing 467 steps zigzag upwards from beside the cave entrance to a lookout across vast karst mountain scape.

Above: Mua Cave

Sadly – (or fortunately depending upon your point-of-view) – the land around the entrance has been developed into a resort, so, “naturally“, there is an overpriced restaurant on site to buy refreshments

This is an artificial tourist area with services such as mountain climbing, weekend getaways and conferences. 

According to legend, Mua Cave was a place for performing arts, dancing and singing of the court ladies of the Tran dynasty.

Above: Mua

Descriptions of Vietnam, through the tales of Swiss Miss and my own research to tell those tales, compel me to one day visit this nation.

Maybe even work there.

Vietnam is chronically short of language teachers due to its dizzying rate of economic growth (second only to China).

One of the main reasons for this growth in demand for teachers is the nation’s booming prosperity and an urgent ambition among parents for their children to master English.

Many urban Vietnamese want to learn English with a view to joining a profession such as banking or tourism or to have a chance of acceptance at institutes of higher learning overseas.

It is rumoured to be relatively easy for native speakers to get a job in Hanoi or Hoi Chi Minh City (HCMC) on the basis of a telephone interview.

Schools, it is said, will snap you up, especially if you have a bachelor’s degree and a CELTA.

Furthermore, Vietnam has low living costs and high salaries.

Often the best way to find work is to simply arrive in one of the major cities and look around.

Although Vietnam is still a one-party socialist republic (which has been accused of blocking websites and blogs that are critical of the government), it bears all the trappings (complete with garish advertising hoardings and American pop music) of a capitalist society with an expanding young middle class who invest in electronic goods, luxury items and English lessons.

Above: Emblem of Vietnam

Hanoi was beautiful, bustling and noisy.

Above: Hanoi scene

HCMC (Ho Chi Minh City / formerly Saigon) is said to be a Bangkok in the making, with its sophisticated, sprawling commercial centre boasting a skyline dotted with skyscrapers – a metropolis that challenges the visitor with traffic, noise, pollution and street hassle.

Above: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Vietnam is a developing country and although the wealth of the nouveau riche classes in the cities is very visible, the countryside is still desperately poor.

Above: Urban slum, Hanoi

Above: Rice fields, Ninh Binh Province

The country experiences frequent power cuts and things in general don’t always work as they are supposed to.

Yet many travellers find themselves, despite the stifling heat and the torrential rains, the crowds and the pollution, delighted with the cities, packed with cheap restaurants and fantastic street food and the buzzing vibrant chaos of the night.

The senses are assaulted, the pulse races, the heart finds a rhythm and pace both soothing and searing.

The melodic voice of Trung Kien Trinh evokes the urban melancholy and yearning, music navigates life.

Vietnamese music, undying, unceasing, boasts less about bling and instead whispers and croons the emotions and lives of ordinary people.

Vagabond upper crust travellers mingle in this Communist parody of colonial capitalism.

The locals quietly survive with grace and dignity.

This is a nation of black humor and youthful energy, the daily life of today intertwined with the dangerous legacy of yesterday and the vague promise of tomorrow.

Where the damned dance with the deceased and where grief is touched by the magic of courageous tenacity and enduring elegance.

This is the Vietnam that the tourist cannot see and the traveller forever seeks.

Above: Vietnam (in green)

Travelling for the foreigner, despite “Western prices” where foreigners pay substantially more than locals do for everything, despite the deception behind that charming Vietnamese smile that seeks to extract money from the gullible, is nevertheless very affordable.

Low-cost airlines fly from north to south.

Regular tourist night buses are a great way to explore the country.

The Reunification Express train runs the full length of the country (over 1,300 km).

Above: Hué railway station

But renting (or purchasing) a motorcycle offers the traveller both flexibility and speed, for whatever else Vietnam may lack there is no shortage of motorbikes for rent or purchase here.

Although it is technically illegal for non-residents to own a vehicle, there is a small trade in second-hand motorbikes in Hanoi and HCMC.

Look at the noticeboards in hotels, travellers’ cafés and tour agents for adverts.

So far, the police ignore the practice…..

On the whole, the cops leave the alien alone, but if you are involved in an accident it is assumed that it is the foreigner’s fault.

Being the wise woman that she is, Heidi checked over everything carefully on her and Sebastian‘s bikes before they left Hanoi.

The brakes, the lights, the horns, the helmets.

All functioning, or at least appeared to be functioning.

It is said that the roads were worse in the past then they are today, but off the main highways road conditions can be highly erratic, with pristine asphalt followed by stretches of spine-jarring potholes and plenty of loose gravel on the sides of the road.

And there is no method to the madness that passes as the rules of the road in Vietnam.

Theory is merely a mention when faced with the frenzy of the fast and furious folly that is driving in the Republic.

Drive on the right…..

In theory.

But in practice…..

Drivers swoop and swerve, dash and dodge, wherever, however they wish.

Might means right, and right-of-way.

The mere motorcycle gives away to thundering trucks and hell bound buses, with indicators and brakes forgotten while the cacophony of horns is the language of the lane.

They assume the small give way to the big, that those without a death wish are wise enough to know when to allow themselves to be forced off the road, pulling over to the hard shoulder to avoid being crushed by the behemoths bent on maximum speed and minimal delay.

Darkness is death for the unwise motorcyclist, for many vehicles lack functioning headlights or the conscience to turn them on.

Flashing headlights, contrary to the unwritten rules of most of the world, do not mean “after you“, but rather in Vietnam they mean:

There is no way on Earth that I am stopping for you.”

So Heidi and Sebastian ride by day and seek lodgings before the sun sets.

These are modern times and the tech-savvy traveller knows the wisdom of BABA (book a bed ahead), so the day’s destination was set:

Ninh Binh, a mere two hours’ ride (in theory) from Hanoi, was the first day’s goal, a modest ambition with a side trip to the Tam Coc region.

Above: Ninh Binh City

The provincial capital of Ninh Binh is an unattractive, traffic-heavy northern town with nothing much to see.

It is one of many places in the world that are great as a base to travel from, but lacking allure to draw visitors to themselves.

Above: Ninh Binh City

Ninh Binh City is located on the right bank of the Day River, with two bridges spanning the confluence of the Van and Day rivers. 

The Day plays an important role in draining the city and flows beneath the urban beauty of the two steel bridges, Non Nuoc Bo and Ninh Binh, drawing the curious into the city centre. 

On the river, Ninh Phuc and Ninh Binh ports connect water traffic to the mouth of the sea.

Day River Afternoon

The floating bridge at the end of the village opens the field

The mountains are green and the eye layers are right

The water rises, pushing the boat away from the sun

The old way to the moonlight

Smoke spread sporadically on both sides of the house

Spring trees and immense clusters of water

Trying to see where my hometown is

Cloudy white, pink wings

Nguyen Du

Above: Day River, Ninh Phuc Port, Ninh Binh City

Ninh Binh is a crossroads, a fork where rivers and roads meet.

Since ancient times, the Trang An World Heritage Site complex, in the west of the city, has been the residence of prehistoric people belonging to the Stone Age.

Above: Trang An

Since ancient times, the confluence of the Van and the Day Rivers has formed markets and a wharf. 

Along with favorable traffic advantages due to the location at the intersection of main roads, these markets have developed into a major economic, political and cultural centre south of the Red River Delta.

In 1873, the French occupied Ninh Binh with the intention of making this place an urban area with many architectural works, such as Ninh Binh Citadel, Lim Bridge, Church Street, Dragon Market….. 

Above: Ninh Binh Citadel

Above: Church Street, Ninh Binh City

Above: Dragon Market, Ninh Binh City

Later, people supported the “garden without empty house” campaign, so many urban buildings were demolished. 

This is why Ninh Binh has the feel of a young city with a landscape that looks new.

Above: Ninh Binh City

During the Nguyen dynasty in August 1884 during the Tonkin campaign, the allegiance of Ninh Bình was of considerable importance to the French, as artillery mounted in its lofty citadel controlled river traffic to the Gulf of Tonkin.

Above: Ninh Binh Citadel

Although the Vietnamese authorities in Ninh Bình made no attempt to hinder the passage of an expedition launched by Henri Rivière in March 1883 to capture Nam Dinh, they were known to be hostile towards the French.

Above: Henri Laurent Rivière (1827 – 1883)

Born in Paris, Rivière entered the École Navale in October 1842.

He mustered out as a midshipman (second class) in August 1845, and saw his first naval service in the Pacific Ocean on Brillante.

In February 1847 he was posted to the South Seas naval division, to Virginie.

He was promoted to midshipman (first class) in September 1847 and to enseigne de vaisseau (ensign) in September 1849.

During the next five years he served in the Mediterranean squadron aboard Iéna (1850), Labrador (1851) and Jupiter (1852 – 1854).

Significantly, his confidential reports from this period mentioned that he seemed to be unduly interested in poetry and literature.

Rivière took part in the Crimean campaign (1854–56), serving on the vessels Uranie, SuffrenBourrasque and Montebello.

Promoted to the rank of lieutenant de vaisseau in November 1856, he served aboard Reine Hortense during the Franco – Austrian War (1859).

Above: Napoleon III (1808 – 1873) at the Battle of Solférino, Italy, 24 June 1859

In 1866 he took part in the Mexican campaign aboard Rhône and Brandon.

Above: Scenes from the Second Franco – Mexican War (1861 – 1867) –
Clockwise from left: French assault on the fort of San Xavier during the siege of Puebla (March 1863) French cavalry capture the Republican flag during the Battle San Pablo del Monte (1863), the 1867 execution of Emperor Maximilian (1832 -1867)

He was promoted to the rank of capitaine de frégate in June 1870 and served as second officer on the ironclad corvette Thétis with the French Baltic Squadron during the Franco – Prussian War (1870).

He saw no active service in any of these campaigns.

Above: Scenes from the Franco – Prussian War (19 July 1870 to 28 January 1871) –
Top left: The Proclamation of the German Empire 
Top right: Henry XVII, Prince Reuss, on the side of the 5th Squadron I Guards Dragoon Regiment at Mars-la-Tour, 16 August 1870 
Middle left: The Siege of Paris in 1870 
Middle right: The Lauenburg 9th Jäger Battalion at Gravelotte 
Bottom left: The Defense of Champigny 
Bottom right: The Last Cartridges

Rivière’s role in the suppression of a revolt in the French colony of New Caledonia in the late 1870s won him promotion to the coveted rank of capitaine de vaisseau in January 1880.

Above: Flags of Nouvelle Calédonie

Above: Location of Nouvelle Calédonie

In November 1881 Rivière was posted to Saigon (HCMC), as commander of the Cochin China naval division.

The posting was generally regarded as a backwater that offered few opportunities for distinction.

Above: Cochinchina, 1867

Rivière himself saw it as an opportunity to write a literary masterpiece that would procure him membership of the Académie française.

Although Rivière spent most of his adult life as a naval officer, he was also ambitious for literary distinction.

He was a journalist for La Liberté and also had articles published in the Revue des deux mondes.

At the end of 1881, Rivière was sent with a small French military force to Hanoi to investigate Vietnamese complaints against the activities of French merchants.

Above: Main Gate (Đoan Môn) of Hanoi Citadel

In defiance of the instructions of his superiors, he stormed the citadel of Hanoi on 25 April 1882 in a few hours, with the governor Hoàng Diêu committing suicide having sent a note of apology to the Emperor.

Above: Hoàng Diêu (1829 – 1882)

Although Rivière subsequently returned the citadel to Vietnamese control, his recourse to force was greeted with alarm in both Vietnam and China.

Above: Hanoi Citadel

The Vietnamese government, unable to confront Rivière with its own ramshackle army, enlisted the help of Liu Yongfu, whose well-trained and seasoned Black Flag soldiers were to prove a thorn in the side of the French.

Above: Liu Yongfu (1837 – 1917)

Above: Black Flag Army flag

The Black Flags had already inflicted one humiliating defeat on a French force commanded by lieutenant de vaisseau Francis Garnier in 1873.

Like Rivière in 1882, Garnier had exceeded his instructions and attempted to intervene militarily in northern Vietnam.

Liu Yongfu had been called in by the Vietnamese government, and ended a remarkable series of French victories against the Vietnamese by defeating Garnier’s small French force beneath the walls of Hanoi.

Garnier was killed in this battle, and the French government later disavowed his expedition.

Above: Francis Garnier (1839 – 1873)

The Vietnamese also bid for Chinese support.

Vietnam had long been a tributary of China.

China agreed to arm and support the Black Flags and to covertly oppose French operations in Tonkin.

The Qing court also sent a strong signal to the French that China would not allow Tonkin to fall under French control.

Above: Flag of modern China

In the summer of 1882, troops of the Chinese Yunnan and Guangxi armies crossed the border into Tonkin, occupying Lang Son, Bac Ninh, Hung Hoa and other towns.

The French minister to China, Frédéric Bourée, was so alarmed by the prospect of war with China that in November and December 1882 he negotiated a deal with the Chinese statesman Li Hongzhang to divide Tonkin into French and Chinese spheres of influence.

The Vietnamese were not consulted by either party to these negotiations.

Above: Li Hongzhang (1823 – 1901)

Rivière was disgusted at the deal cut by Bourée, and in early 1883 decided to force the issue.

He had recently been sent a battalion of marine infantry from France, giving him just enough men to venture beyond Hanoi.

On 27 March 1883, to secure his line of communications from Hanoi to the coast, Rivière captured the citadel of Nam Dinh with a force of 520 French soldiers under his personal command. 

During his absence at Nam Dinh the Black Flags and Vietnamese made an attack on Hanoi, but they were repulsed by chef de bataillon Berthe de Villers in the Battle of Gia Cuc on 28 March.

Rivière was jubilant:

This will force them to take forward their Tonkin Question!

Above: Battle of Gia Cuc, 27 – 28 March 1883

Rivière’s timing was perfect.

He had expected to be cashiered for his capture of Nam Dinh, but instead he found himself the hero of the hour.

Above: Henri Rivière

There had recently been a change of government in France, and the new administration of Jules Ferry was strongly in favour of colonial expansion.

It therefore decided to back Rivière up.

Above: Jules Ferry (1832 – 1893)

Ferry and his foreign minister Paul Armand Challemel-Lacour denounced Bourée’s agreement with Li Hongzhang and recalled the hapless French minister.

They also made it clear to the Chinese that they were determined to place Tonkin under French protection.

Above: Paul-Armand Challemel-Lacour (1827 – 1896)

In April 1883, realising that the Vietnamese were incapable of resisting the French effectively, the Chinese civil mandarin Tang Jingsong persuaded Liu Yongfu to take the field against Rivière with the Black Flag Army.

Above: Tang Jingsong (1841 – 1903)

On 10 May 1883, Liu Yongfu challenged the French to battle in a taunting message on placards that were widely distributed on the walls of Hanoi.

On 19 May, Rivière marched out of Hanoi to attack the Black Flags.

His small force (around 450 men) advanced without proper precautions, and blundered into a well-prepared Black Flag ambush at Paper Bridge (Pont de Papier), a few miles to the west of Hanoi.

In the Battle of Paper Bridge the French were enveloped on both wings, and were only with difficulty able to regroup and fall back to Hanoi.

Above: Paper Bridge

Towards the end of the battle a French cannon overturned with the shock of its recoil, and Rivière and his officers rushed forward to help the gunners to right it.

The Black Flags fired a volley into this struggling mass of men, killing one French officer and seriously wounding Rivière in the shoulder.

Several seconds later, Rivière collapsed.

Seeing the French line in confusion, the Black Flags surged forward and drove back the French rearguard.

Several French officers were wounded at this critical moment, and in the confusion of the retreat Rivière’s body was abandoned on the battlefield.

He was immediately presumed dead by his fellow officers.

If he had not already died from the effects of his wound, he would have been killed as soon as the Black Flags discovered who he was.

Above: Rivière pushing the cannon forward, Paper Bridge, 19 May 1883

Although the Battle of Paper Bridge was a serious defeat for the French, it strengthened the resolve of Jules Ferry’s administration to entrench the French protectorate in Tonkin.

The news of Rivière’s defeat and death reached Paris on 26 May.

The French navy minister Admiral Peyron declared:

France will avenge her glorious children!

Above: Alexandre Peyron (1823 – 1892)

The Chamber of Deputies immediately voted a credit of three and a half million francs to finance the despatch of a strong expeditionary corps to Tonkin.

Rivière’s adventure in Tonkin set in train a course of events that, within a few years, saw French rule extended beyond Cochinchina to the whole of Indochina.

Above: Map of Indochina, 1886

The French had been forced to leave Rivière’s body on the battlefield of Paper Bridge, and for several months were unsure of the precise circumstances of his death.

After being shot in the shoulder Rivière had fallen, then risen to his feet, then collapsed again.

His recumbent body had been last seen surrounded by a knot of Black Flag soldiers.

Most of Rivière’s fellow officers naturally assumed that he had been either shot or stabbed to death on the battlefield there and then, but many Vietnamese believed that he had been taken alive by the Black Flags.

According to a Vietnamese soldier who claimed to have been present at the time, Rivière had been brought into Liu Yongfu’s presence shortly after the battle ended and had been beheaded on the orders of the Black Flag leader, one of whose close friends had been killed by the French during the battle.

Neither version of his death could be confirmed.

Above: Henri Rivière

Several weeks after the battle the French heard rumours that Rivière’s body had been savagely mutilated and buried near the Black Flag stronghold of Phu Hoai.

On 18 September 1883, acting on information received from Vietnamese informants, the French scouted the area with two battalions of marine infantry.

Rivière’s severed head and hands, buried in a lacquered box, were discovered in the village of Kien Mai.

Three weeks later the mutilated body of a European, dressed in naval uniform, was found close to Paper Bridge, near the spot where Rivière had fallen on 19 May.

The body had been gashed with sword slashes, the head and the hands were missing, and the sleeves of the naval tunic had been cut away to remove the marks of rank.

Several French naval officers who knew Rivière well were able to confirm that the body was indeed his.

These circumstances strongly suggested that Rivière had been killed in the heat of battle, on the battlefield of Paper Bridge.

Liu Yongfu had offered a substantial bounty for the heads of French officers, graded according to their rank, and it seems likely that a Black Flag soldier had killed the wounded French commander and then decapitated him in order to claim the bounty, cutting off his hands so that his rank could be verified by the number of bands (galons) on his tunic cuffs.

Rivière’s remains were brought back to Hanoi, where a funeral service was said over them by Paul-François Puginier, the French apostolic vicar of Western Tonkin.

Ten years earlier Puginier had performed a similar office over the body of Francis Garnier, who had died in remarkably similar circumstances.

Above: Paul François Puginier (1835 – 1892)

On 21 December 1873, Liu Yongfu and around 600 Black Flags, marching beneath an enormous black banner, approached the west gate of Hanoi.

A large Vietnamese army followed in their wake.

Garnier began shelling the Black Flags with a field piece mounted above the gate, and when they began to fall back he led a party of 18 French marines and sailors out of the city to pursue them, hoping to inflict some decisive blow.

The counterattack failed.

Garnier, leading three men uphill in a bayonet attack on a party of Black Flags, was stabbed and hacked to death by several Black Flag soldiers after stumbling in a watercourse.

The youthful enseigne de vaisseau Adrien Balny d’Avricourt led an equally small column out of the citadel to support Garnier, but was also killed at the head of his men.

Three French sailors were also killed in these sorties.

The others fled back to the citadel after their officers fell.

Colonel Thomazi, the historian of French Indochina, gave the following detailed description of Garnier’s last moments:

At midday on 21 December he was in conference with the ambassadors when an interpreter ran up, announcing that bands of Black Flags were attacking the town by the western gate.

He immediately hurried to the spot, but some of his men had got there before him, and their fire had sufficed to force the bandits to retreat behind the bamboo hedges.

A 40-millimetre gun arrived at this moment.

Garnier rallied a dozen men, three of whom dragged this small cannon, and left the town at a run to pursue the enemy.

As the gun could not move quickly enough across the fields, he left it behind with its gunners.

He then divided the nine men who remained with him into three groups.

The first two groups moved off to the left and the right, to rejoin one another further on, while he marched in the middle, followed only by two men.

One and a half kilometres from the town he found himself in front of a dyke, and slipped and fell while trying to cross it.

Some Black Flags hidden behind the dyke ran out, while others opened fire.

At this moment the two men who were accompanying Garnier were 100 metres behind him.

One of them was killed by a bullet and the other wounded.

Garnier cried:

‘To me, brave boys, and we’ll give them a thrashing!’

He then fired the six rounds from his revolver in an attempt to rescue himself, but the bandits surrounded him, pierced him with thrusts of sabres and lances, cut off his head, odiously mutilated his corpse, and ran away.

The two other groups, rushing up to the sound of the shooting, were only able to recover his bloodied corpse and bring it back to Hanoi.

Above: Francis Garnier

The remains were subsequently returned to France at the request of Rivière’s family.

They were finally buried in the Cimetière de Montmartre in Paris.

Above: Bust of Henri Rivière, Cimetière de Montmartre, Paris

In November 1883, on the eve of the Son Tây campaign, the French occupied the citadel of Ninh Bình without resistance and installed a garrison.

Above: Ninh Binh Citadel

This land is associated with many legends. 

The Van River is a river of historical value, which is associated with Vietnam’s exploits in the resistance war against the Song Dynasty under King Le Dai Hanh. 

Above: Painting of Le Dai Hanh (941 – 1005)

Legend has it that, when Le Hanh defeated the Song invaders and returned to Hoa Lu, his queen Duong Van Nga set up a bed by the River to meet and greet the King.

Above: Statue of Duong Van Nga (952 – 1000)

Empress Duong Van Nga brought a group of palace ladies to welcome and have a party with the King on the river. 

Immediately the wind blew the five-coloured clouds into the sky. down the river, covering the two. 

Since then, the river has been named Van Sang (rattan bed). 

Today, downstream, on both sides of the River are two streets named Le Dai Hanh and Duong Van Nga.

Nearby is Dong Ben Temple, which records the legends of this love history.

Above: Van River beside the Dragon Market, Ninh Binh City

 

At the eastern gate of Ninh Binh, there is Non Nuoc Mountain.

During the Tran dynasty, Truong Han Sieu often went up to play on this mountain. 

This is a scenic spot, a beautiful poetic scene, very charming. 

Thuy Mountain has been the subject of poets past and present.

In the past, the Mountain was a watchtower to guard Hoa Lu Citadel. 

Above: Non Nuoc

This place bore witness to important regime transitions in the country’s history:

Truong Han Sieu was the first documented person to discover and exploit the beauty of Non Nuoc Mountain. 

He named the mountain Duc Thuy Son and was the first person to leave an autograph of a poem for poets to enjoy, to admire the scenery, and to make more poems carved into the rock. 

The colour of the mountains is still green and smooth,

Why don’t people come back?

Amidst the shining tower,

Heaven opens the cave door.

There is a distance from the floating life like today,

I just know that the previous name is not correct,

Heaven and Earth in the Five Lakes are vast,

Find the rock where you were fishing before.

Truong Han Sieu Temple and Non Nuoc Pagoda were built at the foot of the mountain. 

This area is now Thuy Son Park of Ninh Binh City. 

Above: Temple of Truong Han Sieu on Non Nuoc

The book Dai Nam Nhat Thong Chi reads:

In the north of the mountain, there is a cave.

In the cave there is a temple of Tam Phu.

On the mountainside, there is a rock near the river with three words “Khan Giao Dinh” engraved.

In the southwest of the mountain, there are the temples of Son Tinh and Thuy Tinh, at the top of which there is a pagoda. 

This mountain has witnessed vestiges of many historical periods. 

Since the time of Ly Nhan Tong, Linh Te Tower has stood by the mountain. 

Experiencing rain and sun, the Tower fell, in the reign of Tran Hien Tong.

The monk Tri Nhu rebuilt Linh Te Tower, which took six years to complete (1337 – 1342)

Truong Han Sieu, a famous scholar of the Tran dynasty had many memories of Non Nuoc Mountain. 

Later, kings would set up palaces on the mountain to visit. 

The Nguyen dynasty also set up surrounding walls, huts, and gun foundries in the mountains.

As aforementioned, Non Nuoc Mountain has been the subject of poets past and present. 

It is rare for a mountain to have more than 40 literary poems carved into the rock, but here there are hundreds of poems of poets from across the ages, including: 

  • Truong Han Sieu
  • Tran Anh Tong
  • Tran Ming Tong
  • Pham Su Manh
  • Nguyen Trai  
  • Le Thanh Tong
  • Le Hien Tong
  • Nguyen Nghi
  • Nguyen Huy Oanh
  • Ngo Phuc Lam
  • Ngo Thi Sy
  • Phan Huy Ich
  • Ngo Thi Nham
  • Ninh Ton
  • Nguyen Du
  • Minh Mang
  • Thieu Tri
  • Cao Ba Quat
  • Bui Van Di
  • Nguyen Huu Tuong
  • Pham Ba Huyen
  • Pham Huy Toai
  • Nguyen Khuyen
  • Pham Van Nghi
  • Tu Duc
  • Tu Dam
  • Tan Da…..

Above: Poetry Mountain, Ninh Binh

Non Nuoc Hon is located in a very important position, where rivers and roads and railways converge.

On the mountain remain, still, bunkers with traces of bombs and bullets.

Wartime. 

On the mountain, there is a statue of soldier Luong Van Tuy.

Above: Statue of Luong Van Tuy, Nan Nuoc Mountain, Ninh Binh City

During the Quang Trung campaign, also on this mountain, Colonel Giap Van Khuong was tasked with raiding the Hoi Hac post and then climbing to the top of Non Nuoc to open a breach in the front.

Above: Emperor Quang Trung (1753 – 1792)

So associated with the history of the land of Ninh Binh, the mountain has become a symbol of the city.

Atop the mountain Nghinh Phong Pavilion (wind catcher deck) was built in the 14th century, and is where Truong Han Sieu and others talked and recited poems. 

Once upon a time, Linh Te Tower, built in 1091, stood at the mountain, and was described in loving tones by Truong Han Sieu. 

Ninh Binh authorities intend to rebuild Linh Te Tower.

But, as said, things in Vietnam don’t always happen as planned.

The people of Ninh Binh built a monument to their hero Luong Van Tuy on the top of Non Nuoc.

Luong Van Tuy (1914 – 1932) was a young revolutionary soldier honored with the title of “Hero of the People’s Armed Forces” during the resistance war against the French. 

Luong Van Tuy was from Lu Phong village, Quynh Luu commune, Nho Quan district, Ninh Binh province.

He was the son of Luong Van Thang and the nephew of Dinh Tat Mien, both of whom were the first Communist members of Ninh Binh province.

At the age of 15, Luong Van Tuy entered into revolutionary activities. 

In 1929, he was admitted to a Communist youth organization, the Ninh Binh Provincial Armed Propaganda Team. 

He was tasked with making communications, printing leaflets and secret documents.

On 7 November 1929, the revolutionary government decided to plant the hammer and sickle flag on Non Nuoc Mountain to incite the fighting spirit of the masses and celebrate the Russian Revolution. 

Luong Van Tuy accepted this mission. 

To deceive the enemy, Tuy was quick to plant fake grenades at the base of the flagpole, thus creating a fear to approach it.

After planting the Party flag, on 18 November 1929, there was a newspaper report printed, accompanied by an illustration of the flag flying atop the mountain.

French forces arrested him and held him in Ninh Binh prison. 

On 28 April 1930, he was tried by the Hanoi High Court and then taken to Con Dao. 

In 1932, following the policy of the Island Party Committee, he and some other comrades crossed the sea to the mainland, were hit by strong winds, and all of them died. 

At that time he had just turned 18 years old.

Above: Statue of Luong Van Tuy, Nho Quan Town

The Temple of Truong Han Sieu was founded at the foot of Non Nuoc Mountain in present day Duc Thuy Son Park, located by the Day River in Ninh Binh City. 

The Temple is usually used as the venue to award provincial cultural and study promotion prizes, such as the Truong Han Sieu award.

Truong Han Sieu Temple is comprised of three pavilions of two floors covered by tiled roofs, with corners suggesting curved blades. 

On the roof of the Temple are two dragons adoring the moon.

The façade of the Temple has a great inscription in Chinese alphabet characters that reads: 

Truong Thang Phu Tu

Above: Temple of Truong Han Sieu

 

Within the Bai Duong Pavilion is contained a hammock door, incense and shelves on either side of the door which hold buu bowls. 

The last compartment of the harem pavilion holds an incense altar with a bronze statue of the famous Truong Han Sieu. 

Above: Statue of Truong Han Sieu

Near Truong Han Sieu Temple, on the opposite side from Non Nuoc, is the historical and cultural monument of Non Nuoc Pagoda. 

Non Nuoc Pagoda is an ancient temple built during the reign of King Ly Nhan Tong. 

In 2006, the Pagoda was renovated.

Since the Ly Dynasty, this temple has been a beacon to followers of Buddha. 

In the tower, there is the main image of Buddha along with some auxiliary statues. 

In the 13th century, the pagoda complex was separated into two separate structures:

Pagoda and tower. 

The tower is no longer a pagoda, but it has become a monk’s grave. 

Above: Non Nuoc Pagoda, Ninh Binh City

In the Tran dynasty, the Linh Te Tower collapsed. 

In 1337, during the reign of King Tran Hien Tong, Linh Te Tower was rebuilt. 

The person presiding over the construction of the Tower was the monk Tri Nhu. 

On the occasion of the Tower’s completed reconstruction, Truong Han Sieu wrote the epic “Duc Thuy Son Linh Te” (a description of Linh Te Tower at Duc Thuy Mountain). 

In this memorial, Truong Han Sieu wrote:

The tower was built with four floors.

The night radiates its aura.

People near and far can see it clearly“.

At the end of the Le period, the Linh Te Tower was destroyed, as recorded by Pham Dinh Ho in the book Thuong Duoc Luc.

Every year, the Non Nuoc Pagoda welcomes thousands of domestic and international visitors.

All combine to create a cultural and spiritual area of ​​temples and pagoda and monuments, rivers and mountains in the heart of Ninh Binh City.

Above: Non Nuoc Pagoda

The Ninh Binh Museum, inaugurated on 1 September 1995, is divided into three main parts: natural history, Ninh Binh history before the August Revolution, and Ninh Binh history after the Revolution.

Above: Ninh Binh Provincial Museum

The Dragon Market, the largest market in Ninh Binh, is located on the banks of the Van River.

Above: Dragon Market, Ninh Binh City

The Truong Family Temple is a place to honour the Jade Emperor, Saint Tam Giang, and other notables of the Truong family.

Above: Truong Family Temple, Da Gia Village, 10 km from Ninh Binh City

Above: Altar, Truong Family Temple

The ancient Vietnamese used the myth of the God Pillar to explain the origin of the world. 

Later, when Taoism was introduced to Vietnam from China, God was called the Jade Emperor.

Above: Portrait of the Jade Emperor

According to Chinese Taoism, the Jade Emperor is the head of the Four Kings, chosen to govern the Heavens.

He maintains and oversees divine and human laws.

He can amend, supplement and make laws to suit his rule in the Three Realms. 

The Jade Emperor is the supreme king of heaven with ultimate authority. 

The Jade Emperor / God rules over all the Kings of Heaven, the Dragon Kings of the waters, and the King of the Underworld (Hell).

Above: Thien Mon Gate, Trang An Kinh Temple, Hoa Lu, Ninh Binh Province – Here, there is a statue of the Jade Emperor.

Worshiping the Jade Emperor is very popular in Vietnamese religious belief. 

The temples in the north of Vietnam have long worshiped the Jade Emperor.

This is thought to be the source of the Three Religions (Confucianism – Buddhism – Taoism). 

Every year, on 9 January, the birthday of the Jade Emperor, is a day to worship God, to honour the Jade Emperor.

Above: Jade Emperor Pagoda, Ho Chi Minh City

In Vietnamese folk religion, Ngoc Hoang is the supreme god. 

Ngoc Hoang is said to live and work at a heavenly palace called Thien Phu, where many fairies serve and heavenly generals and soldiers guard. 

As the highest deity in the old beliefs, Emperor Ngoc Hoang often had his own altar in temples and palaces.

Above: Statue of the Jade Emperor

A Vietnamese folk tale tells of a toad climbing the Jade Emperor Bridge to make rain. 

Ngoc Hoang accepted that every time a toad called, it rained down on the Earth. 

Above: The Jade Emperor and the Toad

Another famous story, “Ngoc Hoang and the poor student“, praises the power and justice of the Jade Emperor.

Above: Votive banknote of actor Vuong Ve Quoc in the role of the Jade Emperor

Vietnamese folk have many poems with the word heaven

The most common are the sentences that Heaven refers to the entire natural scenery that exists around people, the space surrounds, the sky above. 

Heaven is like a supernatural force, a power that decides everything: 

Heaven makes immense storms and floods

The river dries up and the lake dries up,

There are no fish in the field

In Vietnamese belief, God also creates all things, even the happiness and suffering of man: 

God gives birth to something very good. 

In the field and offshore is a good season.

If God had a name what would it be?
And would you call it to His face?
If you were faced with Him in all His glory
What would you ask if you had just one question?

And yeah, yeah, God is great
Yeah, yeah, God is good
Yeah, yeah, yeah-yeah-yeah

Above: The name of God trap from the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade

What if God was one of us?
Just a slob like one of us
Just a stranger on the bus
Tryin’ to make His way home?

Above: Scene from the movie Speed

If God had a face what would it look like?
And would you want to see
If seeing meant that you would have to believe
In things like Heaven and in Jesus and the Saints
And all the prophets?

Above: Morgan Freeman as God from the movies Bruce Almighty and Evan Almighty

And yeah, yeah, God is great
Yeah, yeah, God is good
Yeah, yeah, yeah-yeah-yeah

What if God was one of us?
Just a slob like one of us
Just a stranger on the bus
Tryin’ to make his way home?

Above: George Burns (1896 – 1996) as God

Just tryin’ to make His way home
Back up to Heaven all alone
Nobody callin’ on the phone
‘Cept for the Pope, maybe in Rome

Above: Pope Francis

In Vietnamese folk songs, there are many sayings about the Way of Heaven: 

Follow each other for the whole way of Heaven

Because it is a religion, the heavenly religion has the same position and value in Vietnamese spirituality as other religions, so Heaven and Buddha are often placed close to each other, considered as the same divine beings, the same religions: 

Join hands to bow bow to the heavens

The east wind is calm,

The ways of Heaven follow each other.

Scientist Nguyen Van Huyen commented:

God is the source of all life and all justice for the Vietnamese people.

He is not an abstract and incomprehensible god.

People consider him as a man, the king of kings.

He has a court.

He controls all life in Heaven and on Earth.

He punishes the bad and rewards the good

Above: Statue of the Jade Emperor

Heidi and Sebastian make it to Ninh Binh without accident or incident.

Perhaps the good are sometimes rewarded.

Above: Ninh Binh City, Vietnam

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Lonely Planet Armchair Explorer / Rough Guide to Vietnam / Anthony Bourdain, Parts Unknown, CNN / Susan Griffith, Teaching English Abroad / Mitchell Mingorance, “Tam Coc Travel Guide (Tribute to Anthony Bourdain)“, Mitchell Travels, 17 June 2018

aka Canada Slim and the two Georges

Eskişehir, Turkey, Sunday 5 June 2022

I don’t know if companies still do this, but, once a time, some corporations took cultural awareness so seriously that they put employees into a crash course of overseas cultural immersion.

AT & T, for instance, encouraged and paid for the whole family of an executive on the way to a foreign assignment to enroll in classes given by experts in the mores and manners of other lands.

Among the areas that cry out loudest for international understanding are how to say people’s names.

At the US State Department, foreign names are almost as crucial as foreign policy.

Roger Axtel, the author of Do’s and Taboos Around the World, tells a story of a social secretary to a former Secretary of State who recalled that even in the relatively unselfconscious 1950s, she put herself through a rigorous rehearsal of names before every affair of state.

Of all the challenges, she said, the ambassador from what was then Ceylon (today’s Sri Lanka) was the toughest.

After days of practising “Ambassador Notowidigeo“, she was informed that a new man had the job – and was on his way to be received.

You would be surprised how fast you can memorize Sastroamidjojo when you have to.

Above: Flag of Sri Lanka

The first transaction between even ordinary citizens – and the first chance to make an impression for better or worse – is an exchange of names.

In Canada there usually is not very much to get wrong.

And even if you do, is it really so horrific?

Above: Flag of Canada

Not so elsewhere.

Especially in the Eastern Hemisphere, where name frequently denotes social rank or family status, a mistake frequently denotes social rank or family status.

A mistake can be taken as an outright insult.

So can switching to a given name without the other person’s permission, even when you think the situation calls for it.

What would you like me to call you?” is always the opening line of one overseas deputy director for an international telecommunications corporation.

Better to ask several times than to get it wrong.

Even then, I err on the side of formality until asked to ‘Call me Joe’.

Another frequent traveller insists his company provide him with a list of key people he will meet, country by country, surnames underlined, to be memorized on the flight over.

Take Latin America.

Most people’s names are a combination of the father’s and mother’s, with only the father’s name used in conversation.

In the Spanish-speaking countries the father’s name comes first.

Hence, Carlos Mendoza-Miller is called Mr. Mendoza.

Above: Latin America (in green)

But in Portuguese-speaking Brazil it is the other way around, with the mother’s name first, as in Carlos Miller-Mendoza or Mr. Miller.

Above: Flag of Brazil

In the Orient, the Chinese system of surname first, given name last does not always apply.

Above: Modern Asia (1796)

The Taiwanese, many of whom were educated in missionary schools, often have a Christian first name, which comes before any of the others – as in Tommy Ho Chin, who should be called Mr. Ho or, to his friends, Tommy Ho.

Also, given names are often officially changed to initials, so a Y.Y. Lang is Y.Y.

Never mind what it stands for.

Above: Flag of Taiwan

In Korea, which of a man’s names takes a Mr. is determined by whether he is his father’s first or second son.

Above: Flag of South Korea

Although in Thailand names run backwards, Chinese style, the Mr. is put with the given name.

To a Thai it is just as important to be called by his given name as it is for a Japanese to be addressed by his surname.

Above: Flag of Thailand

With the Japanese you can, in a very friendly relationship, respond to his using your first name by dropping the Mr. and adding san to his last name, as in Ishikawa-san.

Above: Flag of Japan

In most of the European Union, first names are never used without invitation and that usually comes only after long association.

Those with academic titles and degrees expect you to use them as a sign of respect.

Above: Flag of the European Union

In the Czech Republic, when greeting a person with a professional title, such as doctor or professor, always use the titles before the surname.

Above: Flag of the Czech Republic

In the UK, most honorary titles are used, even among familiar acquaintances, but it is wise to first hear how others address a person.

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

In Germany, respect titles (Doktor) and never jump to a first name basis until invited.

Above: Germany

In Iceland, Icelanders use first names among themselves, but they expect foreigners to use their last name and will use last names when speaking to foreigners.

In many cases they will soon go over to using first names.

The naming system in Iceland is the old Scandinavian system which all the countries once used.

It is a paternal system where the father gives his children his first name as their last name adding -son if the child is a boy and -dóttir if the child is a girl. 

Above: Flag of Iceland

In Israel, titles are even less important than in the US, but, as always, best to err on the side of formality until informality is encouraged.

Above: Flag of Israel

In Italy, all university graduates have a title and they usually expect you to use it.

Above: Flag of Italy

In Poland, first names are used by close friends only.

Above: Flag of Poland

In Romania, first name greetings are appropriate only between close friends.

In more formal settings use a person’s title and surname.

Above: Flag of Romania

In Algeria, visitors are always addressed by their title and last names.

Professional titles are widely used.

Above: Flag of Algeria

Visitors to Iran should address their hosts by their last name or by their academic rank or title.

Above: Flag of Iran

Use the last name and title when addressing a Pakistani.

Above: Flag of Pakistan

Confused yet?

The safest course is to simply ask.

Above: Led Zeppelin song “Dazed and Confused” EP

King Henry VIII of England (1491 – 1547) ordered that marital births be recorded under the surname of the father.

In England and cultures derived from there, there has long been a tradition for a woman to change her surname upon marriage from her birth name to her husband’s family name.

In the Middle Ages, when a man from a lower-status family married an only daughter from a higher-status family, he would often adopt the wife’s family name.

In the 18th and 19th centuries in Britain, bequests were sometimes made contingent upon a man’s changing (or hyphenating) his family name, so that the name of the testator (name on the last will and testament) continued.

Above: King Henry VIII of England

The United States followed the naming customs and practices of English common law and traditions until recent times.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

Women who keep their own surname after marriage may do so for a number of reasons:

  • They see no reason to change their name, much like men often see no reason to change theirs.
  • Objection to the one-sidedness of this tradition.
  • Being the last member of their family with that surname.
  • To avoid the hassle of paperwork related to their change of name.
  • Wishing to retain their identity.
  • Preferring their last name to their spouse’s last name.
  • To avoid professional ramifications.

Above: Portrait of Charlotte du Val d’Ognes by Marie-Denise Villers (1801), depicts a feminine spirit.

Personally at the time when I married I saw no reason against either keeping my family surname or adopting my wife’s.

Hers is a German surname and perhaps a German surname might have made my adjustment to life in Germany easier.

The opposite side of this question was whether or not a German surname was truly fitting a native speaker of English.

Above: “A complete word“ – “The Awful German Language” in Mark Twain’s A Tramp Abroad

As for my wife she felt the medical profession in Germany (and later Switzerland) tended to be of a conservative nature so she decided to adopt mine.

I am certainly convinced that she can bring as much, or possibly more, honour to the name as I could!

Above: The clan tartan

But, yes, name changes are a hassle of documentation (and cost).

I found this out for myself when I discovered that my biological parents had never bothered to arrange a birth certificate for me when I was born.

Mere physicality of a corporeal form is not sufficient to prove identity these days while paperwork can conjure identity into existence.

When did a document matter more than the person bearing the document?

The first known instance in the United States of a woman insisting on the use of her birth name was that of Lucy Stone in 1855.

Above: Lucy Stone (1818 – 1893)

And since then there has been a general increase in the rate of women using their birth name.

Beginning in the latter half of the 20th century, traditional naming practices writes one commentator, were recognized as “coming into conflict with current sensitivities about children’s and women’s rights“.

Those changes accelerated a shift away from the interests of the parents to a focus on the best interests of the child.

The law in this area continues to evolve today mainly in the context of paternity and custody actions.

Naming conventions in the US have gone through periods of flux, however, and the 1990s saw a decline in the percentage of name retention among women.

As of 2006, more than 80% of American women adopted the husband’s family name after marriage.

It is rare but not unknown for an English-speaking man to take his wife’s family name, whether for personal reasons or as a matter of tradition (such as among matrilineal Canadian aboriginal groups, such as the Haida and Gitxsan).

Above: Flag of the Haida Nation

Above: Flag of the Gitxsan Nation

Upon marriage to a woman, men in the United States can change their surnames to that of their wives, or adopt a combination of both names with the federal government, through the Social Security Administration.

Men may face difficulty doing so on the state level in some states.

It is exceedingly rare but it does occur in the United States, where a married couple may choose an entirely new last name by going through a legal change of name.

As an alternative, both spouses may adopt a double-barrelled name.

For instance, when John Smith and Mary Jones marry each other, they may become known as “John Smith-Jones” and “Mary Smith-Jones“.

A spouse may also opt to use their birth name as a middle name, and e.g. become known as “Mary Jones Smith“.

An additional option, although rarely practiced, is the adoption of the last name derived from a blend of the prior names, such as “Simones“, which also requires a legal name change.

Some couples keep their own last names but give their children hyphenated or combined surnames.

In 1979, the United Nations adopted the Convention on the Elimination of All Forms of Discrimination Against Women (“CEDAW”), which declared in effect that women and men, and specifically wife and husband, shall have the same rights to choose a “family name”, as well as a profession and an occupation.

Above: Flag of the United Nations

In some places, civil rights lawsuits or constitutional amendments changed the law so that men could also easily change their married names (e.g., in British Columbia and California). 

Above: Flag of British Columbia

Above: Flag of California

Québec law permits neither spouse to change surnames, but their children can have hyphenated surnames where one of the parent’s surnames can be dropped once the children have reached adulthood.

Above: Flag of Québec

In France, until 1 January 2005, children were required by law to take the surname of their father.

Article 311-21 of the French Civil Code now permits parents to give their children the family name of either their father, mother, or hyphenation of both – although no more than two names can be hyphenated.

In cases of disagreement, both names are used in alphabetical order.

Above: Flag of France

This brought France into line with a 1978 declaration by the Council of Europe requiring member governments to take measures to adopt equality of rights in the transmission of family names, a measure that was echoed by the United Nations in 1979.

Similar measures were adopted by Germany (1976), Sweden (1982), Denmark (1983), and Spain (1999).

The European Community has been active in eliminating gender discrimination.

Several cases concerning discrimination in family names have reached the courts. 

Burghartz v. Switzerland challenged the lack of an option for husbands to add the wife’s surname to his surname, which they had chosen as the family name when this option was available for women.

Losonci Rose and Rose v. Switzerland challenged a prohibition on foreign men married to Swiss women keeping their surname if this option was provided in their national law, an option available to women. 

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Ünal Tekeli v. Turkey challenged prohibitions on women using their surname as the family name, an option only available to men.

Since 2014, women in Turkey are allowed to keep their birth names alone for their whole life instead of using their husbands’ names. 

Previously, the Turkish Code of Civil Law, Article 187, required a married woman to use her husband’s surname; or else to use her birth name in front of her husband’s name by giving a written application to the marriage officer or the civil registry office.

In 2014, the Constitutional Court ruled that prohibiting married women from retaining only maiden names is a violation of their rights.

The Court found all these laws to be in violation of the Convention.

Above: Flag of Turkey

From 1945 to 2021 in the Czech Republic women by law had to use family names with the ending -ová behind the name of their father or husband (so-called přechýlení).

This was seen as discriminatory by a part of the public.

Since 1 January 2022, Czech women can decide for themselves whether they want to use the feminine or masculine form of their family name. 

Above: Coat of arms of the Czech Republic

Here is where the waters get murky for me.

Wasn’t the point of a woman adopting her husband’s surname to have protection (both physical and financial) by his name and as well to affirm his commitment to the offspring his fertilization produced?

She is under his protection and their offspring is his responsibility?

Doesn’t the use of his name assure him of her commitment to him as well as assure her of his protection and support of her?

Above: The Wedding, Edmund Blair Leighton (1920)

Middlemarch has been published after 150 years under George Eliot‘s real name, Mary Ann Evans, alongside 24 other historic works by women whose writing had only been ever previously been in print under their male pseudonyms.

Evans adopted the pen name of George Eliot in the mid-19th century, in order to ensure her works were taken seriously.

Middlemarch, originally published in eight parts in 1871 – 1872, had never been released under her real name prior to 2020.

Evans said she was “resolute in preserving her incognito, having observed that a nom de plume secures all the advantages without the disagreeables of reputation“, while her partner George Lewes said “the object of anonymity was to get the book judged on its own merits and not prejudged as the work of a woman or of a particular woman“.

Above: Mary Ann Evans (aka George Eliot) (1819 – 1880)

Finally, the work voted the greatest British novel of all time came out in 2020 as Evan’s as part of the Reclaim Her Name campaign from the women’s prize for fiction and prize sponsor Baileys to mark the 25th anniversary of the award.

Some of the books, like Middlemarch, are well-known, including A Phantom Lover, a ghost story from Violet Paget who wrote as Vernon Lee, and Indiana, a romance from Amantine Aurore Dupin, the 19th century author better known as George Sand.

Above: Violet Paget (aka Vernon Lee) (1856 – 1935)

Above: Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin (aka George Sand) (1804 – 1876)

Others are being brought to the forefront after forgotten decades, such as Keynotes, a collection of feminist short stories from 1893 that includes open discussions of women’s sexuality.

The stories were written by Mary Bright, who wrote as George Egerton, in 1893.

She would say of them that:

I realized that in literature, everything had been better done by man than woman could hope to emulate.

There was one small plot for her to tell: the terra incognita of herself, as she knew herself to be, not as man liked to imagine her.

Above: Mary Bright (aka George Egerton) (1859 – 1945)

Frances Rollin Whipper published The Life of Martin R. Delaney in 1868 under the pseudonym Frank A. Rollin.

She was the first African American to publish a biography.

Above: Frances Ann Rollin Whipper (aka Frank A. Rollin) (1845 – 1901)

Ann Petry, who wrote as Arnold Petri, was the first African-American woman to sell more than 1 million copies of a book and joins the list with “Marie of the Cabin Club“, her first published short story, from 1939.

Above: Ann Petry (aka Arnold Petri) (1908 – 1997)

The Reclaim Her Name collection is available to download as e-books for free.

Baileys hopes the project will give the authors “the visibility and credit they deserve” as well as encourage “new and important conversations around the continuing challenges women face in publishing and authors’ many reasons for using a pseudonym.

Again I am given pause to ponder.

Does a name enhance (or detract from) the quality of a person or the product which they produce?

Does it really matter whether a George or a Mary wrote Middlemarch?

Did the name of George harm the quality of the work?

Does the name of Mary improve the quality of the work?

Can a man write like a woman or a woman like a man?

Is a man less right when he writes of women because he is not a woman himself?

Are we to assume that a man is unqualified to write about women without possessing a uterus or a woman ill equipped to write of men without possessing male genitalia?

In the final analysis, shouldn’t the quality of the work be of far greater significance than the name of the writer attributed to the work?

pseudonym (from the Ancient Greek for ‘falsely named‘) or alias is a fictitious name that a person or group assumes for a particular purpose, which differs from their original or true name (orthonym).

This also differs from a new name that entirely or legally replaces an individual’s own.

Most pseudonym holders use pseudonyms, because they wish to remain anonymous, but anonymity is difficult to achieve and often fraught with legal issues.

Pseudonyms include: 

  • stage names
  • user names
  • boxing or wrestling ring names
  • pen names
  • nicknames
  • aliases
  • superhero or villain identities
  • code names
  • gamer identifications
  • regnal names of emperors, popes, and other monarchs

Historically, they have sometimes taken the form of anagrams, Graecisms and Latinisations, although there may be many other methods of choosing a pseudonym.

Pseudonyms should not be confused with new names that replace old ones and become the individual’s full-time name.

Pseudonyms are “part-time” names, used only in certain contexts – to provide a more clear-cut separation between one’s private and professional lives, to showcase or enhance a particular persona, or to hide an individual’s real identity, as with writers’ pen names, graffiti artists’ tags, resistance fighters or terrorists’ noms de guerre, and computer hackers’ handles. 

Actors, voice-over artists, musicians, and other performers sometimes use stage names, for example, to better channel a relevant energy, gain a greater sense of security and comfort via privacy, more easily avoid troublesome fans/”stalkers“, or to mask their ethnic backgrounds.

In some cases, pseudonyms are adopted because they are part of a cultural or organisational tradition:

For example, devotional names used by members of some religious institutes, and “cadre names” used by Communist Party leaders such as Trotsky and Lenin.

Above: Leon Trotsky (1879 – 1940)

Above: Vladimir Lenin (1870 – 1924)

A pseudonym may also be used for personal reasons:

For example, an individual may prefer to be called or known by a name that differs from their given or legal name, but is not ready to take the numerous steps to get their name legally changed.

Or an individual may simply feel that the context and content of an exchange offer no reason, legal or otherwise, to provide their given or legal name.

collective name or collective pseudonym is one shared by two or more persons, for example, the co-authors of a work, such as Carolyn Keene, Erin Hunter, Ellery Queen, Nicholas Bourbaki or James S.A. Corey.

Sometimes people change their names in such a manner that the new name becomes permanent and is used by all who know the person.

This is not an alias or pseudonym, but in fact a new name.

In many countries, including common law countries, a name change can be ratified by a court and become a person’s new legal name.

For example, in the 1960s, civil rights campaigner Malcolm X, originally known as Malcolm Little, changed his surname to “X” to represent his unknown African ancestral name that had been lost when his ancestors were brought to North America as slaves.

He then changed his name again to Malik El-Shabazz when he converted to Islam.

Above: Malcolm X (1925 – 1965)

Likewise some Jews adopted Hebrew family names upon immigrating to Israel, dropping surnames that had been in their families for generations.

Above: Flag of Israel

The politician David Ben-Gurion, for example, was born David Grün in Poland.

He adopted his Hebrew name in 1910 when he published his first article in a Zionist journal in Jerusalem.

Above: David Ben-Gurion (1886 – 1973)

Businesspersons of ethnic minorities in some parts of the world are sometimes advised by an employer to use a pseudonym that is common or acceptable in that area when conducting business, to overcome racial or religious bias.

Criminals may use aliases, fictitious business names and dummy corporations (corporate shells) to hide their identity, or to impersonate other persons or entities in order to commit fraud.

Aliases and fictitious business names used for dummy corporations may become so complex that, in the words of the Washington Post, “getting to the truth requires a walk down a bizarre labyrinth” and multiple government agencies may become involved to uncover the truth.

Giving a false name to a law enforcement officer is a crime in many jurisdictions.

A pen name, or nom de plume, is a pseudonym (sometimes a particular form of the real name) adopted by an author (or on the author’s behalf by their publishers).

Although the term is most frequently used today with regard to identity and the Internet, the concept of pseudonymity has a long history.

In ancient literature it was common to write in the name of a famous person, not for concealment or with any intention of deceit.

In the New Testament, the second letter of Peter is probably such.

Above: St. Peter (d. 68 CE) holding the keys to Heaven

A more modern example is all of The Federalist Papers, which were signed by Publius, a pseudonym representing the trio of James Madison, Alexander Hamilton and John Jay.

Above: James Madison (1751 – 1836)

Above: Alexander Hamilton (1755 – 1804)

Above: John Jay (1745 – 1829)

The papers were written partially in response to several Anti-Federalist Papers, also written under pseudonyms.

As a result of this pseudonymity, historians know that the papers were written by Madison, Hamilton, and Jay, but have not been able to discern with complete accuracy which of the three authored a few of the papers.

There are also examples of modern politicians and high-ranking bureaucrats writing under pseudonyms.

Some female authors used male pen names, in particular in the 19th century, when writing was a male-dominated profession.

The Brontë sisters used pen names for their early work, so as not to reveal their gender and so that local residents would not know that the books related to people of the neighbourhood.

The Brontës used their neighbours as inspiration for characters in many of their books. 

Anne Brontë’s The Tenant of Wildfell Hall (1848) was published under the name Acton Bell.

Above: Anne Brontë (1820 – 1849)

Charlotte Brontë used the name Currer Bell for Jane Eyre (1847) and Shirley (1849).

Above: Charlotte Brontë (1816 – 1855)

Emily Brontë adopted Ellis Bell as cover for Wuthering Heights (1847).

Above: Emily Brontë (1818 – 1848)

Other examples from the 19th century are the novelist Mary Ann Evans (George Eliot) and the French writer Amandine Aurore Lucile Dupin (George Sand).

Pseudonyms may also be used due to cultural or organization or political prejudices.

On the other hand, some 20th and 21st century male romance novelists have used female pen names. 

A few examples are Brindle Chase, Peter O’Donnell (Madeline Brent), Christopher Wood (Penny Sutton / Rosie Dixon), and Hugh C. Rae (Jessica Sterling).

Above: Christopher Wood (1935 – 2015)

Above: Hugh C. Rae (1935 – 2014)

A pen name may be used if a writer’s real name is likely to be confused with the name of another writer or notable individual, or if the real name is deemed unsuitable.

Authors who write both fiction and non-fiction, or in different genres, may use different pen names to avoid confusing their readers.

For example, the romance writer Nora Roberts writes mystery novels under the name J.D. Robb.

Above: Nora Roberts

In some cases, an author may become better known by his pen name than his real name.

Some famous examples of that include Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain), Eric Blair (George Orwell) and Theodor Geisel, better known as Dr. Seuss.

Above: Samuel Clemens (aka Mark Twain) (1835 – 1910)

Above: Eric Arthur Blair (aka George Orwell) (1903 – 1950)

Above: Theodore Geisel (aka Dr. Seuss) (1904 – 1991)

The British mathematician Charles Dodgson wrote fantasy novels as Lewis Carroll and mathematical treatises under his own name.

Above: Charles Dodgson (aka Lewis Carroll) (1832 – 1898)

Some authors, such as Harold Robbins, use several literary pseudonyms.

Above: Harold Robbins (1916 – 1997)

Some pen names have been used for long periods, even decades, without the author’s true identity being discovered, as with Elena Ferrante and Torsten Krol.

Joanne Rowling published the Harry Potter series as J. K. Rowling.

Rowling also published the Cormoran Strike series, a series of detective novels, including The Cuckoo’s Calling, under the pseudonym Robert Galbraith.

Above: Joanne Rowling

Winston Churchill wrote as Winston S. Churchill (from his full surname Spencer-Churchill which he did not otherwise use) in an attempt to avoid confusion with an American novelist of the same name.

The attempt was not wholly successful –

The two are still sometimes confused by booksellers.

Above: Winston Churchill (1874 – 1965)

Above: Winston Churchill (1871 – 1947)

A pen name may be used specifically to hide the identity of the author, as with exposé books about espionage or crime, or explicit erotic fiction.

Some prolific authors adopt a pseudonym to disguise the extent of their published output, e. g. Stephen King writing as Richard Bachman.

Above: Stephen King

Co-authors may choose to publish under a collective pseudonym, e. g., P.J. Tracy and Perri O’Shaughnessy, Frederic Dannay and Manfred Lee used the name Ellery Queen as a pen name for their collaborative works and as the name of their main character. 

Asa Earl Carter, a Southern white segregationist affiliated with the KKK, wrote Western books under a fictional Cherokee persona to imply legitimacy and conceal his history.

Above: Asa Earl Carter (1925 – 1979)

Why do authors choose pseudonyms?

It is rarely because they actually hope to stay anonymous forever.”, mused writer and columnist Russell Smith in his review of the Canadian novel Into That Fire by the pseudonymous M. J. Cates.

Above: Russell Smith

A famous case in French literature was Romain Gary.

Already a well-known writer, he started publishing books as Émile Ajar to test whether his new books would be well received on their own merits, without the aid of his established reputation.

They were.

Émile Ajar, like Romain Gary before him, was awarded the prestigious Prix Goncourt by a jury unaware that they were the same person.

Above: Romain Gary (1914 – 1980)

Similarly, TV actor Ronnie Barker submitted comedy material under the name Gerald Wiley.

Above: Ronnie Barker (1929 – 2005)

A collective pseudonym may represent an entire publishing house, or any contributor to a long-running series, especially with juvenile literature.

Examples include:

  • Watty Piper 

  • Victor Appleton

  • Erin Hunter

Erin Hunter is a collective pseudonym used by the authors Victoria Holmes, Kate Cary, Cherith Baldry, Inbali Iserles, Tui T. Sutherland and Rosie Best in the writing of several juvenile fantasy novel series, which focus on animals and their adventures.

Above: Vicky Holmes

Above: Kate Cary

Above: Cherith Baldry

Above: Inbali Iseries

Above: Tui T. Sutherland

Above: Rosie Best

  • Kamiru M. Xhan

Another use of a pseudonym in literature is to present a story as being written by the fictional characters in the story.

The series of novels known as A Series of Unfortunate Events are written by Daniel Handler under the pen name of Lemony Snicket, a character in the series.

This applies also to some of the several 18th-century English and American writers who used the name Fidelia.

Above: Daniel Handler

An anonymity pseudonym or multiple use name is a name used by many different people to protect anonymity.

It is a strategy that has been adopted by many unconnected radical groups and by cultural groups, where the construct of personal identity has been criticized.

This has led to the idea of the “open pop star“.

Pseudonyms and acronyms are often employed in medical research to protect subjects’ identities through a process known as de-identification.

Nicolaus Copernicus put forward his theory of heliocentrism in the manuscript Commentariolus anonymously, in part because of his employment as a law clerk for a church government organization.

Above: Mikołaj Kopernik (aka Nicholaus Copernicus) (1473 – 1543)

Sophie Germain and William Sealy Gosset used pseudonyms to publish their work in the field of mathematics – Germain, to avoid rampant 19th century academic misogyny, and Gosset, to avoid revealing brewing practices of his employer, the Guinness Brewery.

Above: Portrait of Sophie Germain (1776 – 1831)

Above: William Sealy Gosset (1876 – 1937)

Satoshi Nakamoto is a pseudonym of a still unknown author or authors’ group behind a white paper about bitcoin.

In Ancien Régime France, a nom de guerre (“war name“) would be adopted by each new recruit (or assigned to them by the captain of their company) as they enlisted in the French army.

These pseudonyms had an official character and were the predecessor of identification numbers:

Soldiers were identified by their first names, their family names, and their noms de guerre (e. g. Jean Amarault dit Lafidélité).

These pseudonyms were usually related to the soldier’s place of origin (e. g. Jean Deslandes dit Champigny, for a soldier coming from a town named Champigny), or to a particular physical or personal trait (e. g. Antoine Bonnet dit Prettaboire, for a soldier prêt à boire, ready to drink).

In 1716, a nom de guerre was mandatory for every soldier.

Officers did not adopt noms de guerre as they considered them derogatory.

In daily life, these aliases could replace the real family name.

Above: Coat of arms of pre-revolutionary Kingdom of France

Noms de guerre were adopted for security reasons by members of World War II French resistance and Polish resistance.

Above: American officer and French partisan, 1944

Above: Flag of the Polish Underground State (1939 – 1945)

Such pseudonyms are often adopted by military special-forces soldiers, such as members of the SAS and similar units of resistance fighters, terrorists and guerrillas.

This practice hides their identities and may protect their families from reprisals.

It may also be a form of dissociation from domestic life.

Above: Badge of the British Special Air Services

Some well-known men who adopted noms de guerre include:

  • Ilich Ramírez Sánchez (Carlos)

Above: Ilich Ramírez Sánchez (aka Carlos the Jackal)

  • Willy Brandt, Chancellor of West Germany

Above: Willy Brandt (1913 – 1992)

  • Subcomandate Marcos, spokesman of the Zapatista Army of National Liberation (EZLN)

Above: Rafael Sebastián Guillén Vicente (aka Subcomandante Marcos)

Above: Flag of the Zapista Army of National Liberation

During Lehi’s underground fight against the British in Mandatory Palestine, the organization’s commander Yitzchak Shamir (later Prime Minister of Israel) adopted the nom de guerre “Michael“, in honour of Ireland’s Michael Collins.

Above: Logo of the Lehi movement, a historic militant revisionist Zionist movement

Above: Map of Mandatory Palestine (1920 – 1948)

Above: Yitzhak Shamir (1915 – 2012)

Above: Michael Collins (1890 – 1922)

Revolutionaries and resistance leaders, such as Stalin, Golda Meir, Phillippe Leclerc de Hauteclocque and Josip Broz Tito often adopted their noms de guerre as their proper names after the struggle. 

Above: Joseph Stalin (1878 – 1953)

Above: Golda Meir (1898 – 1978)

Above: Philippe François Marie Leclerc de Hauteclocque (1902 – 1947)

Above: Josip Broz Tito (1892 – 1980)

Georgios Grivas, the Greek-Cypriot EOKA militant, adopted the nom de guerre Digenis.

Above: Georgios Grivas (1897 – 1974)

In the French Foreign Legion, recruits can adopt a pseudonym to break with their past lives.

Above: Emblem of the French Foreign Legion

Mercenaries have long used “noms de guerre“, sometimes even multiple identities, depending on the country, conflict, and circumstance.

Some of the most familiar noms de guerre today are the kunya used by Islamic mujahideen.

These take the form of a teknonym, either literal or figurative.

Above: Afghani mujahideen fighters; Durand Line border, 1985

Individuals using a computer online may adopt or be required to use a form of pseudonym known as a “handle” (a term deriving from CB slang), “user name“, “login name“, “avatar“, or, sometimes, “screen name”, “gamertag” “IGN (IGame (Nick)Name)” or “nickname“.

Above: Citizens band radio

Above: Jo Kay, an avatar in the game Second Life

On the Internet, pseudonymous remailers use cryptography that achieves persistent pseudonymity, so that two-way communication can be achieved, and reputations can be established, without linking physical identities to their respective pseudonyms. 

Above: Lorenz cipher machine used in WW2 to encrypt communications of the German High Command

Aliasing is the use of multiple names for the same data location.

Above: Logo of the TV series Alias (2001 – 2006)

More sophisticated cryptographic systems, such as anonymous digital credentials, enable users to communicate pseudonymously (i. e., by identifying themselves by means of pseudonyms).

In well-defined abuse cases, a designated authority may be able to revoke the pseudonyms and reveal the individuals’ real identity.

Use of pseudonyms is common among professional e-sports players, despite the fact that many professional games are played on LAN.

Above: Players competing in a League of Legends tournament

Pseudonymity has become an important phenomenon on the Internet and other computer networks.

In computer networks, pseudonyms possess varying degrees of anonymity, ranging from highly linkable public pseudonyms (the link between the pseudonym and a human being is publicly known or easy to discover), potentially linkable non-public pseudonyms (the link is known to system operators but is not publicly disclosed), and unlinkable pseudonyms (the link is not known to system operators and cannot be determined).

For example, a true anonymous remailer enables Internet users to establish unlinkable pseudonyms.

Those that employ non-public pseudonyms (such as the now-defunct Penet remailer) are called pseudonymous remailers.

The Penet remailer (anon.penet.fi) was a pseudonymous remailer operated by Johan “Julf” Helsingius of Finland from 1993 to 1996.

Its initial creation stemmed from an argument in a Finnish newsgroup over whether people should be required to tie their real name to their online communications.

Julf believed that people should not — indeed, could not — be required to do so.

In his own words:

Some people from a university network really argued about if everybody should put their proper name on the messages and everybody should be accountable, so you could actually verify that it is the person who is sending the messages.

And I kept arguing that the Internet just doesn’t work that way, and if somebody actually tries to enforce that, the Internet will always find a solution around it.

And just to prove my point, I spent two days or something cooking up the first version of the server, just to prove a point.

Above: Johan Helsingius

Julf’s remailer worked by receiving an e-mail from a person, stripping away all the technical information that could be used to identify the original source of the e-mail, and then remailing the message to its final destination.

The result provided Internet users with the ability to send e-mail messages and post to Usenet newsgroups without revealing their identities.

In addition, the Penet remailer used a type of “post office box” system in which users could claim their own anonymous e-mail addresses of the form anxxxxx@anon.penet.fi, allowing them to assign pseudonymous identities to their anonymous messages, and to receive messages sent to their (anonymous) e-mail addresses.

While the basic concept was effective, the Penet remailer had several vulnerabilities which threatened the anonymity of its users.

Chief among them was the need to store a list of real e-mail addresses mapped to the corresponding anonymous e-mail addresses on the server.

A potential attacker needed only to access that list to compromise the identities of all of Penet’s users.

The Penet remailer was on two occasions required by the legal system in Finland (the country where the Penet server hardware resided) to turn over the real e-mail address that was mapped to an anonymous e-mail address.

Above: Flag of Finland

Another potential vulnerability was that messages sent to and from the remailer were all sent in cleartext, making it vulnerable to electronic eavesdropping.

Despite its relatively weak security, the Penet remailer was a hugely popular remailer owing to its ease of anonymous account set-up and use compared to more secure but less user-friendly remailers, and had over 700,000 registered users at the time of its shutdown in September 1996.

The continuum of unlinkability can also be seen, in part, on Wikipedia.

Some registered users make no attempt to disguise their real identities (for example, by placing their real name on their user page).

The pseudonym of unregistered users is their IP address, which can, in many cases, easily be linked to them.

Other registered users prefer to remain anonymous, and do not disclose identifying information.

However, in certain cases, Wikipedia’s privacy policy permits system administrators to consult the server logs to determine the IP address, and perhaps the true name, of a registered user.

It is possible, in theory, to create an unlinkable Wikipedia pseudonym by using an open proxy, a Web server that disguises the user’s IP address, but most open proxy addresses are blocked indefinitely due to their frequent use by vandals.

Additionally, Wikipedia’s public record of a user’s interest areas, writing style, and argumentative positions may still establish an identifiable pattern.

System operators (sysops) at sites offering pseudonymity, such as Wikipedia, are not likely to build unlinkability into their systems, as this would render them unable to obtain information about abusive users quickly enough to stop vandalism and other undesirable behaviors.

Law enforcement personnel, fearing an avalanche of illegal behavior, are equally unenthusiastic. 

Still, some users and privacy activists, like the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU), believe that Internet users deserve stronger pseudonymity so that they can protect themselves against identity theft, illegal government surveillance, stalking, and other unwelcome consequences of Internet use (including unintentional disclosures of their personal information and doxing).

Above: Logo of the American Civil Liberties Union

Their views are supported by laws in some nations (such as Canada) that guarantee citizens a right to speak using a pseudonym.

This right does not, however, give citizens the right to demand publication of pseudonymous speech on equipment they do not own.

Above: Coat of arms of Canada

Most Web sites that offer pseudonymity retain information about users.

These sites are often susceptible to unauthorized intrusions into their non-public database systems.

For example, in 2000, a Welsh teenager obtained information about more than 26,000 credit card accounts, including that of Bill Gates.

Above: Bill Gates

In 2003, VISA and MasterCard announced that intruders obtained information about 5.6 million credit cards.

Sites that offer pseudonymity are also vulnerable to confidentiality breaches.

Above: Logo of Mastercard

In a study of a Web dating service and a pseudonymous remailer, University of Cambridge researchers discovered that the systems used by these Web sites to protect user data could be easily compromised, even if the pseudonymous channel is protected by strong encryption.

Typically, the protected pseudonymous channel exists within a broader framework in which multiple vulnerabilities exist.

Pseudonym users should bear in mind that, given the current state of Web security engineering, their true names may be revealed at any time.

Above: Coat of arms of the University of Cambridge, England

Pseudonymity is an important component of the reputation systems found in online auction services (such as eBay), discussion sites (such as Slashdot), and collaborative knowledge development sites (such as Wikipedia).

A pseudonymous user who has acquired a favorable reputation gains the trust of other users.

When users believe that they will be rewarded by acquiring a favourable reputation, they are more likely to behave in accordance with the site’s policies.

If users can obtain new pseudonymous identities freely or at a very low cost, reputation-based systems are vulnerable to whitewashing attacks, also called serial pseudonymity, in which abusive users continuously discard their old identities and acquire new ones in order to escape the consequences of their behavior:

On the Internet, nobody knows that yesterday you were a dog, and therefore should be in the doghouse today.

Users of Internet communities who have been banned only to return with new identities are called sock puppets.

Whitewashing is one specific form of Sybil attack on distributed systems.

The Sybil attack in computer security is an attack wherein a reputation system is subverted by creating multiple identities

The social cost of cheaply discarded pseudonyms is that experienced users lose confidence in new users, and may subject new users to abuse until they establish a good reputation.

System operators may need to remind experienced users that most newcomers are well-intentioned.

Concerns have also been expressed about sock puppets exhausting the supply of easily remembered usernames.

Above: In Internet terms, sock puppets are online identities used for disguised activity by the operator.

In addition a recent research paper demonstrated that people behave in a potentially more aggressive manner when using pseudonyms/nicknames (due to the online distribution effect) as opposed to being completely anonymous.

In contrast, research by the blog comment hosting service Disqus found pseudonymous users contributed the “highest quantity and quality of comments“, where “quality” is based on an aggregate of likes, replies, flags, spam reports, and comment deletions, and found that users trusted pseudonyms and real names equally.

Researchers at the University of Cambridge showed that pseudonymous comments tended to be more substantive and engaged with other users in explanations, justifications, and chains of argument, and less likely to use insults, than either fully anonymous or real name comments.

Proposals have been made to raise the costs of obtaining new identities, such as by charging a small fee or requiring e-mail confirmation.

Academic research has proposed cryptographic methods to pseudonymize social media identities or government-issued identities, to accrue and use anonymous reputation in online forums, or to obtain one-per-person and hence less readily-discardable pseudonyms periodically at physical-world pseudonym parties.

Others point out that Wikipedia’s success is attributable in large measure to its nearly non-existent initial participation costs.

Above: Logo of Wikipedia

People seeking privacy often use pseudonyms to make appointments and reservations.

Those writing to advice columns in newspapers and magazines may use pseudonyms.

Steve Wozniak used a pseudonym when attending the University of California (Berkeley) after co-founding Apple Computer, because “he knew he wouldn’t have time enough to be an A+ student“.

Above: Steve Wozniak

Above: Logo of Apple Inc.

When used by an actor, musician, radio disc jockey, model, or other performer or “show business” personality a pseudonym is called a stage name, or, occasionally, a professional name, or screen name.

Members of a marginalized ethnic or religious group have often adopted stage names, typically changing their surname or entire name to mask their original background.

Stage names are also used to create a more marketable name, as in the case of Creighton Tull Chaney, who adopted the pseudonym Lon Chaney, Jr., a reference to his famous father Lon Chaney, Sr.

Above: Creighton Tull Chaney (aka Lon Chaney Jr.) (1906 – 1973)

Above: Lon Chaney Sr. (1883 – 1930)

Chris Curtis of Deep Purple fame was christened as Christopher Crummey (“crumby” is UK slang for poor quality).

In this and similar cases a stage name is adopted simply to avoid an unfortunate pun.

Above: Chris Curtis (1941 – 2005)

Pseudonyms are also used to comply with the rules of performing arts guilds (Screen Actors Guild (SAG), Writers Guild of America (WGA), AFTRA, etc.), which do not allow performers to use an existing name, in order to avoid confusion.

Above: Logo of the American Federation of Television and Radio Artists of the American Federation of Labor – Congress of Industrial Organizations

For example, these rules required film and television actor Michael Fox to add a middle initial and become Michael J. Fox, to avoid being confused with another actor named Michael Fox.

Above: Michael J. Fox

Above: Michael Fox (1921 – 1996)

This was also true of author and actress Fannie Flagg, who chose this pseudonym.

Her real name, Patricia Neal, being the name of another well-known actress.

Above: Patricia Neal (aka Fannie Flagg)

Above: Patricia Neal (1926 – 2010)

British actor Stewart Granger’s real name was James Stewart.

Above: James Stewart (aka Stewart Granger) (1913 – 1993)

Above: James Stewart (1908 – 1997)

The film-making team of Joel and Ethan Coen, for instance, share credit for editing under the alias Roderick Jaynes.

Above: Joel (right) and Ethan (left) Cohen

Some stage names are used to conceal a person’s identity, such as the pseudonym Alan Smithee, which was used by directors in the Directors Guild of America (DGA) to remove their name from a film they feel was edited or modified beyond their artistic satisfaction.

In theatre, the pseudonyms George or Georgina Spelvin, and Walter Plinge are used to hide the identity of a performer, usually when he or she is “doubling” (playing more than one role in the same play).

Above: Sarah Bernhardt (1844 – 1923) as Hamlet, 1899

David Agnew was a name used by the BBC to conceal the identity of a scriptwriter, such as for the Doctor Who serial “City of Death“, which had three writers, including Douglas Adams, who was at the time of writing the show’s script editor.

Above: Logo of the British Broadcasting Corporation

Above: Lalla Ward (companion Romana) and Tom Baker (the 4th Doctor), Doctor Who, “City of Death“, aired in 4 episodes (29 September – 20 October 1979), written by “David Agnew” (pseudonym for David Fisher, Douglas Adams and Graham Williams)

Above: David Fisher (1929 – 2018)

Above: Douglas Adams (1952 – 2001)

Above: Graham Williams (1945 – 1990)

In another Doctor Who serial, “The Brain of Morbius“, writer Terrance Dicks demanded the removal of his name from the credits saying it could go out under a “bland pseudonym“.

This ended up as Robin Bland.

Above: Stuart Fell (Morbius), Philip Madoc (Dr. Solon) and Tom Baker (the 4th Doctor), Doctor Who, “The Brain of Morbius“, aired in 4 episodes (3 – 24 January 1976), written by “Robin Bland” (Terrance Dicks)

Above: Terrance Dicks (1935 – 2019)

Musicians and singers can use pseudonyms to allow artists to collaborate with artists on other labels while avoiding the need to gain permission from their own labels, such as the artist Jerry Samuels, who made songs under Napoleon XIV.

Above: Jerry Samuels

Rock singer-guitarist George Harrison, for example, played guitar on Cream’s song “Badge” using a pseudonym.

Above: George Harrison (1943 – 2001)

In classical music, some record companies issued recordings under a nom de disque in the 1950s and 1960s to avoid paying royalties.

A number of popular budget LPs of piano music were released under the pseudonym Paul Procopolis.

Another example is that Paul McCartney used his fictional name “Bernerd Webb” for Peter and Gordon’s song “Woman“.

Above: Paul McCartney

Pseudonyms are used as stage names in heavy metal bands, such as: 

  • Tracii Guns in LA Guns

Above: Tracy Richard Irving Ulrich (aka Tracii Guns)

  • Axl Rose and Slash in Guns N’ Roses  

Above: William Bruce Rose Jr. (aka Axl Rose)

Above: Saul Hudson (aka Slash)

  • Mick Mars in Mötley Crüe

Above: Bob Alan Deal (aka Mick Mars)

  • Dimebag Darrell in Pantera  

Above: Darrell Lance Abbott (aka Dimebag Darrell) (1966 – 2004)

  • C.C. Deville in Poison

Above: Bruce Anthony Johannesson (aka CC DeVille)

Some such names have additional meanings, like that of Brian Hugh Warner, more commonly known as Marilyn Manson:

Above: Brian Hugh Warner (aka Marilyn Manson)

Marilyn coming from Marilyn Monroe and Manson from convicted serial killer Charles Manson. 

Above: Norma Jeane Mortenson (aka Marilyn Monroe) (1926 – 1962)

Above: Charles Manson (1934 – 2017)

Jacoby Shaddix of Papa Roach went under the name “Coby Dick” during the Infest era.

He changed back to his birth name when lovehatetragedy was released.

Above: Jacoby Shaddix

David Johansen, front man for the hard rock band New York Dolls, recorded and performed pop and lounge music under the pseudonym Buster Poindexter in the late 1980s and early 1990s.

The music video for Poindexter’s debut single, Hot Hot Hot, opens with a monologue from Johansen where he notes his time with the New York Dolls and explains his desire to create more sophisticated music.

Above: David Johansen

Ross Bagdasarian, Sr., creator of Alvin and the Chipmunks, wrote original songs, arranged and produced the records under his real name, but performed on them as David Seville.

He also wrote songs as Skipper Adams.

Above: Ross Bagdasarian Sr. (aka David Saville) (1919 – 1972)

Danish pop pianist Bent Fabric, whose full name is Bent Fabricius-Bjerre, wrote his biggest instrumental hit “Alley Cat” as Frank Bjorn.

For a time, the musician Prince used an unpronounceable “Love Symbol” as a pseudonym.

(“Prince” is his actual first name rather than a stage name).

Above: Prince Rogers Nelson (1958 – 2016)

He wrote the song “Sugar Walls” for Sheena Easton as “Alexander Nevermind” and “Manic Monday” for the Bangles as “Christopher Tracy“.

(He also produced albums early in his career as “Jamie Starr“.)

Above: Sheena Easton

Above: The Bangles – Susanna Hoffs, Vicki Peterson and Debbi Peterson

Many Italian-American singers have used stage names, as their birth names were difficult to pronounce or considered too ethnic for American tastes.

Singers changing their names included: 

  • Dean Martin (born: Dino Paul Crocetti)

Above: Dean Martin (1917 – 1995)

  • Connie Francis (born: Concetta Franconero)

Above: Connie Francis

  • Frankie Valli (born: Francesco Castelluccio) 

  • Tony Bennett (born: Anthony Benedetto)

Above: Tony Bennett

  • Lady Gaga (born: Stefani Germanotta)

In 2009, the British rock band Feeder briefly changed its name to Renegades so it could play a whole show featuring a set list in which 95% of the songs played were from their forthcoming new album of the same name, with none of their singles included.

Front man Grant Nicholas felt that if they played as Feeder, there would be uproar over him not playing any of the singles, so used the pseudonym as a hint.

A series of small shows were played in 2010, at 250 to 1,000 capacity venues with the plan not to say who the band really are and just announce the shows as if they were a new band.

Above: Feeder

In many cases, hip-hop and rap artists prefer to use pseudonyms that represents some variation of their name, personality, or interests.

Examples include:

  • Iggy Azalea (her stage name is a combination of her dog’s name, Iggy, and her home street in Mullumbimby, Azalea Street)

Above: Amethyst Amelia Kelly (aka Iggy Azalea)

  • Ol’ Dirty Bastard (known under at least six aliases)

Above: Russell Tyrone Jones (1968 – 2004)

  • Diddy (previously known at various times as Puffy, P. Diddy, and Puff Daddy)

Above: Sean Combs

  • Ludacris

Above: Christopher Brian Bridges (aka Ludacris)

  • Flo Rida (whose stage name is a tribute to his home state, Florida)

Above: Tramar Lacel Dillard (aka Flo Rida)

  • British-Jamaican hip-hop artist Stefflon Don (real name: Stephanie Victoria Allen)

Above: Stephanie Victoria Allen (aka Stefflon Don)

  • LL Cool J 

Above: James Todd Smith (aka LL Cool J)

  • Chingy 

Above: Howard Earl Bailey Jr. (aka Chingy)

Black metal artists also adopt pseudonyms, usually symbolizing dark values, such as Nocturno CultoGaahl, Abbath and Silenoz.

Above: Ted Skjellum (aka Nocturno Culto)

Above: Kristian Eivind Espedal (aka Gaahl)

Above: Olve Eikemo (aka Abbath)

In punk and hardcore punk, singers and band members often replace real names with tougher-sounding stage names, such as Sid Vicious (real name: John Simon Ritchie) of the late 1970s band Sex Pistols and “Rat” of the early 1980s band the Varukers and the 2000s re-formation of Discharge.

Above: Sid Vicious (1957 – 1979)

The punk rock band the Ramones had every member take the last name of Ramone.

Henry John Deutschendorf Jr., an American singer-songwriter, used the stage name John Denver.

Above: John Denver (1943 – 1997)

The Australian country musician born Robert Lane changed his name to Tex Morton.

Above: Bust of Tex Morton (1916 – 1983), Bicentennial Park, Tamsworth, New South Wales, Australia

Reginald Kenneth Dwight legally changed his name in 1972 to Elton John.

Above: Elton John

And here are other questions that bother me.

Does a person exist without a name?

Does the lack of a name deny the corporeal existence of a person?

Would Reginald Dwight have been just as successful under his own name rather than the pseudonym Elton John?

I give my Swiss friend, whose globetrotting adventures I occasionally chronicle, the pseudonym of Swiss Miss in the interest of concealing her identity in an age where women need to protect their public persona from unwanted male attention.

I give myself the pseudonym of Canada Slim, for no other reason than I like the nickname that a trio of people assigned me during and after my hitchhiking adventures in the United States in my 20s.

I have nothing to conceal, for the digital presence under my name of Adam Kerr is carefully considered so as not to offend anyone’s sensibilities too often.

I try not to leave myself too vulnerable to the unscrupulous who seek to use my identity for their own profit.

Above: Your humble blogger

That being said there are far more delicious delights in other people’s accounts than could ever be found in those of an ESL teacher in Turkey.

I am not unduly concerned.

Above: Flag of Turkey

The other issue that concerns me is the subtle whitewashing of historical events.

Hear me out.

Is it certainly a good thing to give a woman credit for her accomplishments?

Absolutely.

Was an authoress’ decision to give herself a male pseudonym a legitimate one considering the fear that she might not have gotten published had she used her feminine name?

Perhaps.

Certainly it would have great had the past accepted women more.

But I fight against altering the past because it does not match the sentiments of the present.

This leaves an Orwellian bad taste in my mouth.

The Ministry of Truth controls information: news, entertainment, education, and the arts.

Winston Smith works in the Records Department, “rectifying” historical records to accord with Big Brother’s current pronouncements so that everything the Party says appears to be true.

Above: John Hurt (Winston Smith), Nineteen Eighty-Four (1984)

It is considered impolite, for example, to suggest that the South were traitors to America, that they fought for states’ rights not based on the Constitution rather than the reality of retaining slaves.

Above: Flag of the Confederate States of America (1861 – 1865)

It is unpleasant, but the past is necessarily unpleasant and must be acknowledged as it was and not as we wish it had been.

Otherwise the folly committed has no lessons of wisdom for us in the present.

Without Hiroshima and Nagasaki would the world be less inclined to wage nuclear warfare?

Above: Genbaku Dome (Hiroshima Peace Memorial), Hiroshima, Japan

Without the acknowledgement of the horror of the Holocaust would Israel exist and would Germany have grown as a civilized nation because it accepted responsibility for its deeds so as to never allow such horror to arise again there?

Above: From the Auschwitz Album: Hungarian Jews arriving at Auschwitz II in German-occupied Poland, May 1944. Most were “selected” to go to the gas chambers. Camp prisoners are visible in their striped uniforms. The Auschwitz Album is the only surviving visual evidence of the process leading to mass murder at Auschwitz-Birkenau.

Other countries have committed similar atrocities, but the sins of the father can never be extirpated if they are denied.

But if I say it didn’t happen then I am absolved of responsibility?

Above: Nyamata Memorial Site, Rwanda

Certainly the naming of authors bears no horror in comparison to the Holocaust or nuclear annihilation, but where there is similarity is the willingness to admit that the necessity for women authors to give themselves male names existed and that history must somehow be altered so that it appears that this necessity did not exist, so that the past is more politically correct to present sensibilities.

I honestly don’t care who wrote Middlemarch or Indiana if they are books worth reading.

Let Mary Ann or Amantine be George, if that is how they are recognized and remembered.

We know today whose names hid behind George so why is it now necessary to change the names on the books we recognize more with the name George?

Let the writing stand on its own merits rather than on the perception of value assigned to gender names.

Mary Ann Evans was born in Nuneaton, Warwickshire, England.

She was the third child and daughter of a local mill-owner.

She spelled her name differently at different times:

Mary Anne was the spelling used by her father for the baptismal record and she uses this spelling in her earliest letters.

Within her family, however, it was spelled Mary Ann.

Above: Market Place, Nuneaton, England

In early 1820 the Evans family moved to a house named Griff House, between Nuneaton and Bedworth.

Above: Griff House

The young Evans was a voracious reader and obviously intelligent.

Because she was not considered physically beautiful, Evans was not thought to have much chance of marriage, and this, coupled with her intelligence, led her father to invest in an education not often afforded women.

From ages five to nine, she boarded with her sister Chrissey at Miss Latham’s school in Attleborough, from ages 9 to 13 at Mrs. Wallington’s school in Nuneaton, and from ages 13 to 16 at Miss Franklin’s school in Coventry.

Above: Attleborough Baptist Chapel, Nuneaton

At Mrs. Wallington’s school, she was taught by the evangelical Maria Lewis — to whom her earliest surviving letters are addressed.

In the religious atmosphere of the Misses Franklin’s school, Evans was exposed to a quiet, disciplined belief opposed to evangelicalism.

Above: Nant Glyn School, Coventry

After age 16, Evans had little formal education.

Thanks to her father’s important role on the estate, she was allowed access to the library of Arbury Hall, which greatly aided her self-education and breadth of learning.

Her classical education left its mark.

Above: Arbury Hall, Nuneaton

Christopher Stray has observed that:

George Eliot’s novels draw heavily on Greek literature and her themes are often influenced by Greek tragedy“.

Her frequent visits to the estate also allowed her to contrast the wealth in which the local landowner lived with the lives of the often much poorer people on the estate, and different lives lived in parallel would reappear in many of her works.

The other important early influence in her life was religion.

She was brought up within a low church Anglican family, but at that time the Midlands was an area with a growing number of religious dissenters.

Above: Canterbury Cathedral, England

In 1836, her mother died and Evans (then 16) returned home to act as housekeeper, but she continued correspondence with her tutor Maria Lewis.

When she was 21, her brother Isaac married and took over the family home, so Evans and her father moved to Foleshill near Coventry.

Above: Tower Court and Foleshill Road, Foleshill

The closeness to Coventry society brought new influences, most notably those of Charles and Cara Bray. 

Charles Bray had become rich as a ribbon manufacturer and had used his wealth in the building of schools and in other philanthropic causes.

Above: Charles Bray (1811 – 1884)

Evans, who had been struggling with religious doubts for some time, became intimate friends with the radical, free-thinking Brays, whose “Rosehill” home was a haven for people who held and debated radical views.

The people whom the young woman met at the Brays’ house included Robert Owen, Herbert Spencer, Harriet Martineau and Ralph Waldo Emerson.

Above: Robert Owen (1771 – 1858)

Above: Herbert Spencer (1820 – 1903)

Above: Harriet Martineau (1802 – 1876)

Above: Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803 – 1882)

Through this society Evans was introduced to more liberal and agnostic theologies and to writers such as David Strauss and Ludwig Feuerbach, who cast doubt on the literal truth of Biblical texts.

In fact, her first major literary work was an English translation of Strauss’s Das Leben Jesu kritisch bearbeitet as The Life of Jesus, Critically Examined (1846), which she completed after it had been left incomplete by Elizabeth “Rufa” Brabant, another member of the “Rosehill Circle“.

The Strauss book had caused a sensation in Germany by arguing that the miracles in the New Testament were mythical additions with little basis in fact.

Above: David Strauss (1808 – 1874)

Evans’s translation had a similar effect in England, the Earl of Shaftesbury calling her translation “the most pestilential book ever vomited out of the jaws of hell“.

Later she translated Feuerbach’s The Essence of Christianity (1854).

Above: Ludwig Feuerbach (1804 – 1872)

The ideas in these books would have an effect on her own fiction.

As a product of their friendship, Bray published some of Evans’s own earliest writing, such as reviews, in his newspaper the Coventry Herald and Observer.

As Evans began to question her own religious faith, her father threatened to throw her out of the house, but his threat was not carried out.

Instead, she respectfully attended church and continued to keep house for him until his death in 1849, when she was 30.

Five days after her father’s funeral, she travelled to Switzerland with the Brays.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

She decided to stay on in Geneva alone, living first on the lake at Plongeon (near the present-day United Nations buildings) and then on the second floor of a house owned by her friends François and Juliet d’Albert Durade on the rue de Chanoines (now the rue de la Pelisserie).

She commented happily that “one feels in a downy nest high up in a good old tree“.

Her stay is commemorated by a plaque on the building.

While residing there, she read avidly and took long walks in the beautiful Swiss countryside, which was a great inspiration to her.

François Durade painted her portrait there as well.

Above: Geneva, Switzerland

On her return to England the following year (1850), she moved to London with the intent of becoming a writer, and she began referring to herself as Marian Evans.

She stayed at the house of John Chapman, the radical publisher whom she had met earlier at Rosehill and who had published her Strauss translation.

Above: John Chapman (1821 – 1894)

Chapman had recently purchased the campaigning, left-wing journal The Westminster Review.

Evans became its assistant editor in 1851 after joining just a year earlier.

Evans’s writings for the paper were comments on her views of society and the Victorian way of thinking.

She was sympathetic to the lower classes and criticized organised religion throughout her articles and reviews and commented on contemporary ideas of the time.

Much of this was drawn from her own experiences and knowledge and she used this to critique other ideas and organisations.

This led to her writing being viewed as authentic and wise but not too obviously opinionated.

Evans also focused on the business side of the Review with attempts to change its layout and design.

Although Chapman was officially the editor, it was Evans who did most of the work of producing the journal, contributing many essays and reviews beginning with the January 1852 issue and continuing until the end of her employment at the Review in the first half of 1854.

Eliot sympathized with the 1848 revolutions throughout continental Europe, and even hoped that the Italians would chase the “odious Austrians” out of Lombardy and that “decayed monarchs” would be pensioned off, although she believed a gradual reformist approach to social problems was best for England.

Above: On the barricades on the rue Soufflot, Paris, 25 June 1848, Horace Vernet (1849)

In 1850–51, Evans attended classes in mathematics at the Ladies College in Bedford Square, later known as Bedford College, London.

Above: Bedford College (1849 – 1985)

The philosopher and critic George Henry Lewes met Evans in 1851.

By 1854 they had decided to live together.

Lewes was already married to Agnes Jervis, although in an open marriage.

Above: George Henry Lewes (1817 – 1878)

In addition to the three children they had together, Agnes also had four children by Thornton Leigh Hunt.

Above: Thornton Leigh Hunt (1810 – 1873)

In July 1854, Lewes and Evans travelled to Weimar and Berlin together for the purpose of research.

Above: Weimar, Germany

Above: Berlin, Germany

Before going to Germany, Evans continued her theological work with a translation of Feuerbach’s The Essence of Christianity.

While abroad she wrote essays and worked on her translation of Baruch Spinoza’s Ethics, which she completed in 1856, but which was not published in her lifetime.

Above: Baruch Spinoza (1632 – 1677)

In 2020, Eliot’s translation of Spinoza’s Ethics was finally published by Princeton University Press.

The trip to Germany also served as a honeymoon for Evans and Lewes, who subsequently considered themselves married.

Evans began to refer to Lewes as her husband and to sign her name as Mary Ann Evans Lewes, legally changing her name to Mary Ann Evans Lewes after his death.

It was not so much the adultery itself, but the refusal to conceal the relationship, that was felt to breach the social convention of the time, and attracted so much disapproval.

Above: George Henry Lewes and Mary Ann Evans

While continuing to contribute pieces to the Westminster Review, Evans resolved to become a novelist, and set out a pertinent manifesto in one of her last essays for the Review, “Silly Novels by Lady Novelists“(1856).

The essay criticized the trivial and ridiculous plots of contemporary fiction written by women.

In other essays, she praised the realism of novels that were being written in Europe at the time, an emphasis on realistic storytelling confirmed in her own subsequent fiction.

She also adopted a nom-de-plume, George Eliot.

As she explained to her biographer J. W. Cross, George was Lewes’s forename, and Eliot was “a good mouth-filling, easily pronounced word“.

In 1857, when she was 37 years of age, “The Sad Fortunes of the Reverend Amos Barton“, the first of the three stories included in Scenes of Clerical Life, and the first work of “George Eliot“, was published in Blackwood’s Magazine

The Scenes (published as a 2-volume book in 1858), was well received, and was widely believed to have been written by a country parson, or perhaps the wife of a parson.

Evans’s first complete novel, published in 1859, was Adam Bede

It was an instant success, and prompted yet more intense curiosity as to the author’s identity:

There was even a pretender to the authorship, one Joseph Liggins.

This public interest subsequently led to Marian Evans Lewes’s acknowledgment that it was she who stood behind the pseudonym George Eliot. 

Adam Bede is known for embracing a realist aesthetic inspired by Dutch visual art.

The revelations about Eliot’s private life surprised and shocked many of her admiring readers, but this did not affect her popularity as a novelist.

Her relationship with Lewes afforded her the encouragement and stability she needed to write fiction, but it would be some time before the couple were accepted into polite society.

Acceptance was finally confirmed in 1877 when they were introduced to Princess Louise, the daughter of Queen Victoria.

Above: Princess Louise (1848 – 1939)

The Queen herself was an avid reader of all of Eliot’s novels and was so impressed with Adam Bede that she commissioned the artist Edward Henry Corbould to paint scenes from the book.

Above: Queen Victoria (1819 – 1901)

Above: Edward Henry Corbould (1815 – 1905)

When the American Civil War broke out in 1861, Eliot expressed sympathy for the Union cause, something which historians have attributed to her abolitionist sympathies.

Above: Images of the American Civil War (1861 – 1865)

Above: George Eliot, 1864

In 1868, she supported philosopher Richard Congreve’s protests against governmental policies in Ireland and had a positive view of the growing movement in support of Irish home rule.

Above: Richard Congreve (1818 – 1899)

She was influenced by the writings of John Stuart Mill and read all of his major works as they were published.

In Mill’s Subjection of Women (1869) she judged the second chapter excoriating the laws which oppress married women “excellent“.

She was supportive of Mill’s parliamentary run, but believed that the electorate was unlikely to vote for a philosopher and was surprised when he won.

While Mill served in Parliament, she expressed her agreement with his efforts on behalf of female suffrage, being “inclined to hope for much good from the serious presentation of women’s claims before Parliament“. 

Above: John Stuart Mill (1806 – 1873)

In a letter to John Morley, she declared her support for plans “which held out reasonable promise of tending to establish as far as possible an equivalence of advantage for the two sexes, as to education and the possibilities of free development“, and dismissed appeals to nature in explaining women’s lower status.

Above: John Morley (1838 – 1923)

In 1870, she responded enthusiastically to Lady Amberley’s feminist lecture on the claims of women for education, occupations, equality in marriage, and child custody.

Above: Lady Amberley (1842 – 1874)

After the success of Adam Bede, Eliot continued to write popular novels for the next fifteen years.

Within a year of completing Adam Bede, she finished The Mill on the Floss, dedicating the manuscript: “To my beloved husband, George Henry Lewes, I give this MS. of my third book, written in the sixth year of our life together, at Holly Lodge, South Field, Wandsworth, and finished 21 March 1860.” 

Silas Mariner (1861) and Romola (1863) soon followed, and later Felix Holt, the Radical (1866) and her most acclaimed novel, Middlemarch (1872).

Her last novel was Daniel Deronda, published in 1876, after which she and Lewes moved to Witley, Surrey.

By this time Lewes’s health was failing, and he died two years later, on 30 November 1878.

Eliot spent the next two years editing Lewes’s final work, Life and Mind, for publication.

She found solace and companionship with John Walter Cross, a Scottish commission agent 20 years her junior, whose mother had recently died.

Above: John Walter Cross (1840 – 1924)

On 16 May 1880 Eliot married John Walter Cross and again changed her name, this time to Mary Ann Cross.

While the marriage courted some controversy due to the difference in ages, it pleased her brother Isaac, who had broken off relations with her when she had begun to live with Lewes, and now sent congratulations.

Above: Isaac Evans (1816 – 1890)

While the couple were honeymooning in Venice, Cross, in a reported suicide attempt, jumped from the hotel balcony into the Grand Canal.

Above: Grand Canal, Venice, Italy

He survived, and the newlyweds returned to England.

They moved to a new house in Chelsea, but Eliot fell ill with a throat infection.

This, coupled with the kidney disease with which she had been afflicted for several years, led to her death on 22 December 1880 at the age of 61.

Due to her denial of the Christian faith and her adulterous affair with Lewes, Eliot was not buried in Westminster Abbey.

Above: Westminster Abbey, London, England

She was instead interred in Highgate Cemetery, London, in the area reserved for political and religious dissenters and agnostics, beside the love of her life, George Henry Lewes.

The graves of Karl Marx and her friend Herbert Spencer are nearby.

Above: Karl Marx (1818 – 1883)

In 1980, on the centenary of her death, a memorial stone was established for her in the Poets’ Corner.

Several landmarks in her birthplace of Nuneaton are named in her honour.

Above: George Eliot Bench, Nuneaton

Middlemarch, A Study of Provincial Life is a novel by the English author Mary Anne Evans, who wrote as George Eliot.

Although female authors were published under their own names during her lifetime, she wanted to escape the stereotype of women’s writing being limited to lighthearted romances or other lighter fare not to be taken very seriously.

She also wanted to have her fiction judged separately from her already extensive and widely known work as a translator, editor, and critic.

Another factor in her use of a pen name may have been a desire to shield her private life from public scrutiny, thus avoiding the scandal that would have arisen because of her relationship with the married George Henry Lewes.

It first appeared in eight instalments (volumes) in 1871 and 1872.

Set in Middlemarch, a fictional English Midland town, in 1829 to 1832, it follows distinct, intersecting stories with many characters. 

Issues include the status of women, the nature of marriage, idealism, self-interest, religion, hypocrisy, political reform, and education.

Despite comic elements, Middlemarch uses realism to encompass historical events: the 1832 Reform Act, early railways, and the accession of King William IV.

It looks at medicine of the time and reactionary views in a settled community facing unwelcome change.

Eliot began writing the two pieces that formed the novel in 1869–1870 and completed it in 1871.

Initial reviews were mixed, but it is now seen widely as her best work and one of the great English novels.

Middlemarch was described by the novelist Virginia Woolf as “one of the few English novels written for grown-up people” and by Martin Amis and Julian Barnes as the greatest novel in the English language.

Dorothea Brooke is a 19-year-old orphan, living with her younger sister, Celia, as a ward of her uncle, Mr. Brooke.

Dorothea is an especially pious young woman, whose hobby involves the renovation of buildings belonging to the tenant farmers, although her uncle discourages her.

Dorothea is courted by Sir James Chettam, a young man close to her own age, but she is oblivious to him.

She is attracted instead to the Rev. Edward Casaubon, a 45-year-old scholar.

Dorothea accepts Casaubon‘s offer of marriage, despite her sister’s misgivings.

Chettam is encouraged to turn his attention to Celia, who has developed an interest in him.

Fred and Rosamond Vincy are the eldest children of Middlemarch’s town mayor.

Having never finished university, Fred is widely seen as a failure and a layabout, but allows himself to coast because he is the presumed heir of his childless uncle Mr. Featherstone, a rich but unpleasant man.

Featherstone keeps as a companion a niece of his by marriage, Mary Garth.

Although she is considered plain, Fred is in love with her and wants to marry her.

Dorothea and Casaubon experience the first tensions in their marriage on their honeymoon in Rome, when Dorothea finds that her husband has no interest in involving her in his intellectual pursuits and no real intention of having his copious notes published, which was her chief reason for marrying him.

She meets Will Ladislaw, Casaubon‘s much younger disinherited cousin, whom he supports financially.

Ladislaw begins to feel attracted to Dorothea.

She remains oblivious, but the two become friendly.

Fred becomes deeply in debt and finds himself unable to repay what he owes.

Having asked Mr. Garth, Mary‘s father, to co-sign the debt, he now tells Garth he must forfeit it.

As a result, Mrs. Garth‘s savings from four years of income, held in reserve for the education of her youngest son, are wiped out, as are Mary‘s savings.

As a result, Mr. Garth warns Mary against ever marrying Fred.

Fred comes down with an illness, of which he is cured by Dr. Tertius Lydgate, a newly arrived doctor in Middlemarch.

Lydgate has modern ideas about medicine and sanitation and believes doctors should prescribe, but not themselves dispense medicines.

This draws ire and criticism of many in the town.

He allies himself with Bulstrode, a wealthy, church-going landowner and developer, who wants to build a hospital and clinic that follow Lydgate‘s philosophy, despite the misgivings of Lydgate‘s friend, Farebrother, about Bulstrode‘s integrity.

Lydgate also becomes acquainted with Rosamond Vincy, whose beauty and education go together with shallowness and self-absorption.

Seeking to make a good match, she decides to marry Lydgate, who comes from a wealthy family, and uses Fred‘s sickness as an opportunity to get close to the doctor.

Lydgate initially views their relationship as pure flirtation and backs away from Rosamond after discovering that the town considers them practically engaged.

However, on seeing her a final time, he breaks his resolution and the two become engaged.

Casaubon arrives back from Rome about the same time, only to suffer a heart attack.

Lydgate, brought in to attend him, tells Dorothea it is difficult to pronounce on the nature of Casaubon‘s illness and chances of recovery:

That he may indeed live about 15 years if he takes it easy and ceases his studies, but it is equally possible the disease may develop rapidly, in which case death will be sudden.

As Fred recovers, Mr. Featherstone falls ill.

He reveals on his deathbed that he has made two wills and tries to get Mary to help him destroy one.

Unwilling to be involved in the business, she refuses.

Featherstone dies with both wills still intact.

Featherstone‘s plan had been for £10,000 to go to Fred Vincy, but his estate and fortune instead go to an illegitimate son of his, Joshua Rigg.

Casaubon, in poor health, has grown suspicious of Dorothea‘s goodwill to Ladislaw.

He tries to make Dorothea promise, if he should die, to forever “avoid doing what I should deprecate, and apply yourself to do what I should desire“.

She is hesitant to agree, and he dies before she can reply.

Casaubon‘s will is revealed to contain a provision that, if Dorothea marries Ladislaw, she will lose her inheritance.

The peculiar nature of the condition leads to general suspicion that Ladislaw and Dorothea are lovers, creating awkwardness between the two.

Ladislaw is in love with Dorothea but keeps this secret, having no desire to involve her in scandal or cause her disinheritance.

She meanwhile realises she has romantic feelings for him, but must suppress them.

He remains in Middlemarch, working as a newspaper editor for Mr. Brooke, who is mounting a campaign to run for Parliament on a Reform platform.

Lydgate‘s efforts to please Rosamond soon leave him deeply in debt and he is forced to seek help from Bulstrode.

He is partly sustained in this by a friendship with Camden Farebrother.

Meanwhile, Fred Vincy‘s humiliation at being responsible for Caleb Garth‘s financial setbacks shocks him into reassessing his life.

He resolves to train as a land agent under the forgiving Caleb.

He asks Farebrother to plead his case to Mary Garth, not realizing that Farebrother is also in love with her.

Farebrother does so, thereby sacrificing his own desires for the sake of Mary, who he realises truly loves Fred and is just waiting for him to find his place in the world.

John Raffles, a mysterious man who knows of Bulstrode‘s shady past, appears in Middlemarch, intending to blackmail him.

In his youth, the church-going Bulstrode engaged in questionable financial dealings.

His fortune is founded on his marriage to a wealthy, much older widow.

The widow’s daughter, who should have inherited her mother’s fortune, had run away.

Bulstrode located her but failed to disclose this to the widow, so that he inherited the fortune in lieu of her daughter.

The widow’s daughter had a son, who turns out to be Ladislaw.

On grasping their connection, Bulstrode is consumed with guilt and offers Ladislaw a large sum of money, which Ladislaw refuses as being tainted.

Bulstrode‘s terror of public exposure as a hypocrite leads him to hasten the death of the mortally sick Raffles, while lending a large sum to Lydgate, whom Bulstrode had previously refused to bail out of his debt.

However, the story of Bulstrode‘s misdeeds has already spread.

Bulstrode‘s disgrace engulfs Lydgate:

Knowledge of the loan spreads and he is assumed to be complicit with Bulstrode.

Only Dorothea and Farebrother retain any faith in him, but Lydgate and Rosamond are still encouraged to leave Middlemarch by the general opprobrium.

Disgraced and reviled, Bulstrode‘s one consolation is that his wife stands by him as he too faces exile.

When Mr Brooke‘s election campaign collapses, Ladislaw decides to leave the town and visits Dorothea to say his farewell, but Dorothea has fallen in love with him.

She renounces Casaubon‘s fortune and shocks her family by announcing that she will marry Ladislaw.

At the same time, Fred, having been successful in his new career, marries Mary.

The “Finale” details the ultimate fortunes of the main characters.

Fred and Mary marry and live contentedly with their three sons.

Lydgate operates a successful practice outside Middlemarch and attains a good income, but never finds fulfilment and dies at the age of 50, leaving Rosamond and four children.

After he dies, Rosamond marries a wealthy physician.

Ladislaw engages in public reform, and Dorothea is content as a wife and mother to their two children.

Their son eventually inherits Arthur Brooke‘s estate.

The action of Middlemarch takes place “between September 1829 and May 1832“, or 40 years before its publication in 1872, a gap not so pronounced for it to be regularly labelled as a historical novel.

By comparison, Walter Scott’s Waverley (1814) – often seen as the first major historical novel – takes place some 60 years before it appears.

Above: Walter Scott (1769 – 1830)

Eliot had previously written a more obviously historical novel, Romola (1863), set in 15th-century Florence.

Above: Plaque in Florence on the residence of George Eliot at the time of writing Romola

The critics Kathleen Blake and Michael York Mason argue that there has been insufficient attention given to Middlemarch “as a historical novel that evokes the past in relation to the present“.

The critic Rosemary Ashton notes that the lack of attention to this side of the novel may indicate its merits:

Middlemarch is that very rare thing, a successful historical novel.

In fact, it is so successful that we scarcely think of it in terms of that subgenre of fiction.

For its contemporary readers, the present “was the passage of the Second Reform Act in 1867“, the agitation for the Reform Act of 1832 and its turbulent passage through the two Houses of Parliament, which provide the structure of the novel, would have been seen as the past.

Above: Cartoon of Benjamin Disraeli (1804 – 1881) outpacing William Gladstone (1809 – 1898)

Though rarely categorised as a historical novel, Middlemarch‘s attention to historical detail has been noticed: In an 1873 review, Henry James recognised that Eliot’s “purpose was to be a generous rural historian“.

Elsewhere, Eliot has been seen to adopt “the role of imaginative historian, even scientific investigator in Middlemarch and her narrator as conscious “of the historiographical questions involved in writing a social and political history of provincial life”.

This critic compares the novel to “a work of the ancient Greek historian Herodotus“, who is often described as “the father of history“.

Above: Roman bust of Herodotus (484 – 425 BCE)

The fictional town of Middlemarch, North Loamshire, is probably based on Coventry, where Eliot had lived before moving to London.

Like Coventry, Middlemarch is described as a silk-ribbon manufacturing town.

The subtitle — “A Study of Provincial Life” — has been seen as significant.

One critic views the unity of Middlemarch as achieved through “the fusion of the two senses ofprovincial'”

On the one hand it means geographically “all parts of the country except the capital“.

On the other, a person who is “unsophisticated” or “narrow-minded“.

Above: Modern Coventry, England

Above: Statue of George Eliot, Coventry

Central to Middlemarch is the idea that Dorothea Brooke cannot hope to achieve the heroic stature of a figure like Saint Theresa, for Eliot’s heroine lives at the wrong time, “amidst the conditions of an imperfect social state, in which great feelings will often take the aspect of error, and great faith the aspect of illusion“.

Theresa’s passionate, ideal nature demanded an epic life.

Many a Theresa has been born who found for themselves no epic life wherein there was a constant unfolding of far-resonant action.

Perhaps only a life of mistakes, the offspring of a certain spiritual grandeur ill-matched with the meanness of opportunity.

Perhaps a tragic failure which found no sacred poet and sank unwept into oblivion.

With dim lights and tangled circumstance they tried to shape their thought and deed in noble agreement, but, after all, to common eyes, their struggles seemed mere inconsistency and formlessness.

For these were helped by no coherent social faith and order which could perform the function of knowledge for the ardently willing soul.

Their ardor alternated between a vague ideal and common yearning…..

Some have felt their blundering lives are due to the inconvenient indefiniteness with which the Supreme Power has fashioned natures…..

Here and there is born a Saint Theresa, foundress of nothing, whose loving heartbeats and sobs after an unattained goodness tremble off and are dispersed among hindrances, instead of centring in on some long-recognizable deed.

George Eliot, Middlemarch

Above: Teresa of Ávila (1515 – 1582)

Antigone, a figure from Greek mythology best known from Sophocles’ play, is given in the “Finale” as a further example of a heroic woman.

Above: Antigone in front of the dead Polynices, Nikiforos Lytras, 1865

Above: Bust of Sophocles (497 – 405 BCE), Pushkin Museum, Moscow, Russia

The literary critic Kathleen Blake notes Eliot’s emphasis on St Theresa’s “very concrete accomplishment, the reform of a religious order“, rather than her Christian mysticism.

A frequent criticism by feminist critics is that not only is Dorothea less heroic than Saint Theresa and Antigone, but George Eliot herself.

In response, Ruth Yeazell and Kathleen Blake chide these critics for “expecting literary pictures of a strong woman succeeding in a period [around 1830] that did not make them likely in life“.

Eliot has also been criticized more widely for ending the novel with Dorothea marrying Will Ladislaw, someone so clearly her inferior. 

The novelist Henry James describes Ladislaw as a dilettante who “has not the concentrated fervour essential in the man chosen by so nobly strenuous a heroine“.

Marriage is one of the major themes in Middlemarch.

According to George Steiner, “both principal plots [those of Dorothea and Lydgate] are case studies of unsuccessful marriage“.

This suggests that these “disastrous marriages” leave the lives of Dorothea and Lydgate unfulfilled.

This is arguably more the case with Lydgate than with Dorothea, who gains a second chance through her later marriage to Will Ladislaw, but a favourable interpretation of this marriage depends on the character of Ladislaw himself, whom numerous critics have viewed as Dorothea‘s inferior.

In addition, there is the “meaningless and blissful” marriage of Dorothea‘s sister Celia Brooke to Sir James Chettam, and more significantly Fred Vincy‘s courting of Mary Garth.

In the latter, Mary Garth will not accept Fred until he abandons the Church and settles on a more suitable career.

Above: George Steiner (1929 – 2020)

Here Fred resembles Henry Fielding’s character Tom Jones, both being moulded into a good husband by the love they give to and receive from a woman.

Above: Henry Fielding (1707 – 1754)

Dorothea is a St Theresa, born in the wrong century, in provincial Middlemarch, who mistakes in her idealistic ardor, “a poor dry mummified pedant… as a sort of angel of vocation“.

Middlemarch is in part a Bildungsroman focusing on the psychological or moral growth of the protagonist:

Dorotheablindly gropes forward, making mistakes in her sometimes foolish, often egotistical, but also admirably idealistic attempt to find a role” or vocation that fulfils her nature. 

Lydgate is equally mistaken in his choice of a partner, as his idea of a perfect wife is someone “who can sing and play the piano and provide a soft cushion for her husband to rest after work“.

So he marries Rosamond Vincy, “the woman in the novel who most contrasts with Dorothea“, and thereby “deteriorates from ardent researcher to fashionable doctor in London“.

Middlemarch, according to Henry James, was “at once one of the strongest and one of the weakest of English novels.

Middlemarch is a treasure-house of details, but it is an indifferent whole.”

Among the details, his greatest criticism (“the only eminent failure in the book“) was of the character of Ladislaw, who he felt was an insubstantial hero-figure as against Lydgate.

The scenes between Lydgate and Rosamond he especially praised for their psychological depth – he doubted whether there were any scenes “more powerfully real or intelligent” in all English fiction.

Above: Henry James (1843 – 1916)

Thérèse Bentzon, for the Revue des deux Mondes, was critical of Middlemarch.

Although finding merit in certain scenes and qualities, she faulted its structure as “made up of a succession of unconnected chapters, following each other at random.

The final effect is one of an incoherence which nothing can justify.”

In her view, Eliot’s prioritisation of “observation rather than imagination… inexorable analysis rather than sensibility, passion or fantasy” means that she should not be held amongst the first ranks of novelists.

Above: Marie-Thérèse de Solms-Blanc (aka Thérèse Bentzon) (1840 – 1907)

The German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche, who read Middlemarch in a translation owned by his mother and sister, derided the novel for construing suffering as a means of expiating the debt of sin, which he found characteristic of “little moralistic females à la Eliot“.

Above: Friedrich Nietzsche (1844 – 1900)

Despite the divided contemporary response, Middlemarch gained immediate admirers:

In 1873, the poet Emily Dickinson expressed high praise for the novel, exclaiming in a letter to a friend: 

What do I think of ‘Middlemarch’?”

What do I think of glory – except that in a few instances this “mortal has already put on immortality.”

George Eliot was one.

The mysteries of human nature surpass the “mysteries of redemption,” for the infinite we only suppose, while we see the finite.

Emily Dickinson, Letter to her cousins Louise and Fannie Norcross

Above: Emily Dickinson (1830 – 1886)

In separate centuries, Florence Nightingale and Kate Millett remarked on the eventual subordination of Dorothea‘s own dreams to those of her admirer, Ladislaw.

Indeed, the ending acknowledges this and mentions how unfavourable social conditions prevented her from fulfilling her potential.

Above: Florence Nightingale (1820 – 1910)

Above: Kate Millett (1934 – 2017)

In the first half of the 20th century, Middlemarch continued to provoke contrasting responses.

Leslie Stephen dismissed the novel in 1902:

The immediate success of Middlemarch may have been proportioned rather to the author’s reputation than to its intrinsic merits.

The novel seems to fall short of the great masterpieces which imply a closer contact with the world of realities and less preoccupation with certain speculative doctrines.

Above: Leslie Stephen (1832 – 1904)

His daughter Virginia Woolf described it in 1919 as “the magnificent book that, with all its imperfections, is one of the few English novels written for grown-up people.”

However, Woolf was “virtually unique” among the modernists in her unstinting praise for Middlemarch.

The novel also remained overlooked by the reading public of the time.

Above: Virginia Woolf (1882 – 1941)

F. R. Leavis’ The Great Tradition (1948) is credited with having “rediscovered” the novel:

The necessary part of great intellectual powers in such a success as Middlemarch is obvious … the sheer informedness about society, its mechanisms, the ways in which people of different classes live … a novelist whose genius manifests itself in a profound analysis of the individual.”

Leavis’ appraisal of it has been hailed as the beginning of a critical consensus that still exists towards the novel, in which it is recognised not only as Eliot’s finest work, but as one of the greatest novels in English. 

Above: Frank Raymond Leavis (1895 – 1978)

V. S. Pritchett, in The Living Novel, two years earlier, in 1946 had written that:

No Victorian novel approaches Middlemarch in its width of reference, its intellectual power, or the imperturbable spaciousness of its narrative.

I doubt if any Victorian novelist has as much to teach the modern novelists as George Eliot …

No writer has ever represented the ambiguities of moral choice so fully”.

Above: Victor Sawdon Pritchett (1900 – 1997)

In the 21st century, the novel is still held in high regard.

The novelists Martin Amis and Julian Barnes have both called it probably the greatest novel in the English language.

Above: Martin Amis

Above: Julian Barnes

Today Middlemarch is frequently included in university courses.

In 2013, the then British Education Secretary Michael Gove referred to Middlemarch in a speech, suggesting its superiority to Stephenie Meyer’s vampire novel Twilight.

Gove’s comments led to debate on teaching Middlemarch in Britain, including the question of when novels like Middlemarch should be read, and the role of canonical texts in teaching.

Above: Michael Gove

The novel has remained a favourite with readers and scores high in reader rankings:

In 2003, it was #27 in the BBC’s The Big Read.

In 2007, it was #10 in “The 10 Greatest Books of All Time“, based on a ballot of 125 selected writers.

In 2015, in a BBC Culture poll of book critics outside the UK, the novel was ranked at #1 in “The 100 greatest British novels“.

On 5 November 2019, BBC News reported that Middlemarch is on the BBC list of 100 “most inspiring” novels.

Above: Logo of the British Broadcasting Corporation

Middlemarch has been adapted several times for television and the stage.

In 1968, it appeared as a BBC-produced TV mini-series of the same name, directed by Joan Craft, starring Michele Dotrice.

The first episode, “Dorothea“, is missing from the BBC Archives, while the third episode, “The New Doctor“, can be viewed online, although only as a low-quality black and white telerecording owned by a private collector.

The other five episodes have been withheld from public viewing.

Above: Michele Dotrice

In 1994 it was again adapted by the BBC as a TV series of the same name, directed by Anthony Page with a screenplay by Andrew Davies.

This was a critical and financial success and revived public interest adapting the classics.

In 2013 came a stage adaptation, and also an Orange Tree Theatre Repertory production adapted and directed by Geoffrey Beevers as three plays: Dorothea’s StoryThe Doctor’s Story, and Fred & Mary.

The novel has never been made into a film, although the idea was toyed with by the English director Sam Mendes.

Above: Sam Mendes

In April 2022, Dash Arts produced The Great Middlemarch Mystery, an immersive theatre experience staged across three locations in Coventry, including Drapers Hall.

Above: Drapers Hall, Coventry

The opera Middlemarch in Spring by Allen Shearer, to a libretto by Claudia Stevens, has a cast of six and treats only the central story of Dorothea Brooke.

It was first staged in San Francisco in 2015.

In 2017, a modern adaptation, Middlemarch: The Series, aired on YouTube as a video blog.

Lyrics for the song “How Soon Is Now?” by The Smiths were taken from Middlemarch

I am the son
And the heir
Of a shyness that is criminally vulgar
I am the son and heir
Of nothing in particular

You shut your mouth
How can you say
I go about things the wrong way?
I am human and I need to be loved
Just like everybody else does

I am the son
And the heir
Of a shyness that is criminally vulgar
I am the son and heir
Of nothing in particular

You shut your mouth
How can you say
I go about things the wrong way?
I am human and I need to be loved
Just like everybody else does

There’s a club if you’d like to go
You could meet somebody who really loves you
So you go and you stand on your own
And you leave on your own
And you go home and you cry
And you want to die

When you say it’s gonna happen now
When exactly do you mean?
See I’ve already waited too long
And all my hope is gone

You shut your mouth
How can you say
I go about things the wrong way?
I am human and I need to be loved
Just like everybody else does

The plot of Indiana:

Indiana is the story’s heroine, a young noblewoman descended from French colonial settlers from Île Bourbon (now Réunion) and currently living in France.

Indiana is married to an older ex-army officer named Colonel Delmare and suffers from a variety of unknown illnesses, presumably due to the lack of passion in her life.

Indiana does not love Delmare and searches for someone who will love her passionately.

She overlooks her cousin Ralph, who lives with her and the colonel.

As it turns out, Ralph is in love with Indiana.

When their young, handsome, and well-spoken neighbor, Raymon de Ramiere, declares his interest to Indiana, she falls in love with him.

Raymon has already seduced Indiana‘s maid, Noun, who is pregnant with his child.

When Noun finds out what is going on, she drowns herself.

Indiana‘s husband decides that they will move to Île Bourbon.

Indiana escapes the house to faithfully present herself in Raymon‘s apartments in the middle of the night, expecting him to accept her as his mistress in spite of society’s inevitable condemnation.

He at first attempts to seduce her but, on failing, rejects her once and for all.

He cannot bear the thought that her will is stronger than his and writes her a letter intended to make her fall in love with him again, even though he has no intention of requiting this love.

Indiana has moved to the Island with the Colonel by the time she reads the letter.

She resists the letter but finally returns to France on a perilous sea journey.

When she arrives in Paris, the French Revolution of 1830 is taking place.

In the meantime, Raymon has made an advantageous marriage and bought Indiana’s house, where he and his wife live.

The stoic and remote Sir Ralph, whom Indiana has always seen as an ‘égoiste‘, suddenly comes to rescue her and tell her that Colonel Delmare has died from a fever.

Indiana and Ralph decide to commit suicide together by jumping into a waterfall on the Île Bourbon.

But on the way home, they fall in love.

Just before the suicide, they declare their love for one another and pledge that they will be married in Heaven.

At the end of the novel comes a conclusion, a young adventurer’s account of finding a man and woman, Ralph and Indiana, living on an isolated farm on the Island.

The novel deals with many typical 19th century novelistic themes.

These include adultery, social constraint, and unfulfilled longing for romantic love.

The novel is an exploration of 19th century female desire complicated by class constraints and by social codes about infidelity.

In another sense, the novel critiques the laws around women’s equality in France.

Indiana cannot leave her husband, Colonel Delmare, because she lacks the protection of the law:

Under the Napoleonic Code, women could not obtain property, claim ownership of their children, or divorce.

Finally, the novel touches on the subordination of the colonies to the French Empire.

Sand’s first literary efforts were collaborations with the writer Jules Sandeau.

They published several stories together, signing them Jules Sand.

Sand’s first published novel Rose et Blanche (1831) was written in collaboration with Sandeau. 

She subsequently adopted, for her first independent novel, Indiana (1832), the pen name that made her famous – George Sand.

Sand was the most popular writer (of any gender) in Europe by the age of 27, more popular than both Victor Hugo and Honoré de Balzac in England in the 1830s and 1840s.

Above: George Sand

She remained immensely popular as a writer throughout her lifetime and long after her death.

Early in her career, her work was in high demand.

By 1836, the first of several compendia of her writings was published in 24 volumes.

In total, four separate editions of her “Complete Works” were published during her lifetime.

In 1880, her children sold the rights to her literary estate for 125,000 francs (equivalent to 36 kg worth of gold, or $1.3 million dollars in 2015).

Drawing from her childhood experiences of the countryside, Sand wrote the pastoral novels La Mare au Diable (1846), François le Champi (1847–1848), La Petite Fadette (1849), and Les Beaux Messieurs de Bois Doré (1857). 

A Winter in Majorca described the period that she and Chopin spent on that island from 1838 to 1839.

Sand spent the winter of 1838–1839 with Frédéric Chopin in Mallorca at the (formerly abandoned) Carthusian monastery of Valldemossa.

The trip to Mallorca was described in her Un hiver à Majorque, first published in 1841.

Chopin was already ill with incipient tuberculosis at the beginning of their relationship, and spending a cold and wet winter in Mallorca where they could not get proper lodgings exacerbated his symptoms.

Above: Valldemossa, Mallorca, Spain

Sand and Chopin also spent many long summers at Sand’s country manor in Nohant (1839 – 1846, excepting 1840). 

There, Chopin wrote many of his most famous works, including the Fantasie in F Minor Opus 49, Piano Sonata No. 3 Opus 58, and the Ballade No. 3 Opus 47.

Above: George Sand House, Nohant, France

In her novel Lucrezia Floriani, Sand used Chopin as a model for a sickly Eastern European prince named Karol.

He is cared for by a middle-aged actress past her prime, Lucrezia, who suffers a great deal through her affection for Karol

Though Sand claimed not to have made a cartoon out of Chopin, the book’s publication and widespread readership may have exacerbated their later antipathy towards each other.

After Chopin’s death, Sand burned much of their correspondence, leaving only four surviving letters between the two.

Three of the letters were published in the “Classiques Garnier” series in 1968.

Above: Grave of Frédéric Chopin, Père Lachaise cemetery, Paris, France

Another breach was caused by Chopin’s attitude toward Sand’s daughter, Solange.

Chopin continued to be cordial to Solange after Solange and her husband Auguste Clésinger had a falling out with Sand over money.

Sand took Chopin’s support of Solange to be extremely disloyal, and confirmation that Chopin had always “loved” Solange.

Above: Solange Dudevant- Clésinger (1828 – 1899)

Sand’s son Maurice also disliked Chopin.

Maurice wanted to establish himself as the “man of the estate” and did not wish to have Chopin as a rival.

Maurice removed two sentences from a letter Sand wrote to Chopin when he published it because he felt that Sand was too affectionate toward Chopin and Solange.

Above: Jean-François-Maurice-Arnauld Dudevant (aka Maurice Sand) (1823 – 1889)

They separated two years before his death for a variety of reasons.

Chopin was never asked back to Nohant.

In 1848, he returned to Paris from a tour of the United Kingdom, to die at the Place Vendôme in 1849.

George Sand was notably absent from his funeral.

Above: Funerary monument on a pillar in Holy Cross Church, Warsaw, Poland, enclosing Chopin’s heart

Her other novels include Indiana (1832), Lélia (1833), Mauprat (1837), Le Compagnon du Tour de France (1840), Consuelo (1843), and Le Meunier d’Angibault (1845).

Theatre pieces and autobiographical pieces include Histoire de ma vie (1855), Elle et Lui (1859, about her affair with Musset), Journal Intime (posthumously published in 1926), and Correspondence.

Sand often performed her theatrical works in her small private theatre at the Nohant estate.

Sand’s writing was immensely popular during her lifetime and she was highly respected by the literary and cultural elite in France. 

Victor Hugo, in the eulogy he gave at her funeral, said:

The lyre was within her.

In this country whose law is to complete the French Revolution and begin that of the equality of the sexes, being a part of the equality of men, a great woman was needed.

It was necessary to prove that a woman could have all the manly gifts without losing any of her angelic qualities, be strong without ceasing to be tender.

George Sand proved it.

George Sand was an idea.

She has a unique place in our age.”

Above: Victor Hugo (1802 – 1885)

Sand also wrote literary criticism and political texts.

In her early life, she sided with the poor and working class as well as women’s rights.

When the 1848 Revolution began, she was an ardent republican.

Sand started her own newspaper, published in a workers’ cooperative.

Politically, she became very active after 1841.

Leaders of the day often consulted with her and took her advice.

She was a member of the provisional government of 1848, issuing a series of fiery manifestos.

Above: Lamartine in front of the Town Hall of Paris rejects the red flag on 25 February 1848

While many Republicans were imprisoned or went to exile after Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte’s coup d’état of December 1851, she remained in France, maintained an ambiguous relationship with the new regime, and negotiated pardons and reduced sentences for her friends.

Above: Louis Napoléon Bonaparte / Napoléon III (1808 – 1873)

Sand was known for her implication and writings during the Paris Commune of 1871, where she took a position for the Versailles assembly against the “communards“, urging them to take violent action against the “rebels”.

She was appalled by the violence of the Paris Commune, writing:

The horrible adventure continues.

They ransom, they threaten, they arrest, they judge.

They have taken over all the city halls, all the public establishments, they’re pillaging the munitions and the food supplies.

Above: A barricade thrown up by the Communard National Guard, 18 March 1871


Others are great men.

She was a great woman.

Victor Hugo

Sand was one of many notable 19th century women who chose to wear male attire in public.

In 1800, the police issued an order requiring women to apply for a permit in order to wear male clothing.

Some women applied for health, occupational, or recreational reasons (e.g., horse riding), but many women chose to wear pants and other traditional male attire in public without receiving a permit.

They did so as well for practical reasons, but also at times to subvert dominant stereotypes.

Above: Aurore Dupin meeting General Joachim Murat (1767 – 1815) in her uniform

Sand was one of the women who wore men’s clothing without a permit, justifying it as being less expensive and far sturdier than the typical dress of a noblewoman at the time.

In addition to being comfortable, Sand’s male attire enabled her to circulate more freely in Paris than most of her female contemporaries and gave her increased access to venues from which women were often barred, even women of her social standing.

Also scandalous was Sand’s smoking tobacco in public.

Neither peerage nor gentry had yet sanctioned the free indulgence of women in such a habit, especially in public.

While there were many contemporary critics of her comportment, many people accepted her behaviour until they became shocked with the subversive tone of her novels. 

Those who found her writing admirable were not bothered by her ambiguous or rebellious public behaviour.

Above: George Sand

Victor Hugo commented:

George Sand cannot determine whether she is male or female.

I entertain a high regard for all my colleagues, but it is not my place to decide whether she is my sister or my brother.”

Above: George Sand

Eugène Delacroix was a close friend and respected her literary gifts.

Above: Eugène Delacroix (1798 – 1863)

Flaubert, by no means an indulgent or forbearing critic, was an unabashed admirer. 

Above: Gustave Flaubert (1821 – 1880)

Honoré de Balzac, who knew Sand personally, once said that if someone thought she wrote badly, it was because their own standards of criticism were inadequate.

He also noted that her treatment of imagery in her works showed that her writing had an exceptional subtlety, having the ability to “virtually put the image in the word“. 

Above: Honoré de Balzac (1799 – 1850)

Alfred de Vigny referred to her as “Sappho“.

Above: Alfred de Vigny (1797 – 1863)

Above: Earliest representation of Sappho (630 – 570 BCE)

Not all of her contemporaries admired her or her writing:

Poet Charles Baudelaire was one contemporary critic of George Sand:

Above: Charles Baudelaire (1821 – 1867)

She is stupid, heavy and garrulous.

Her ideas on morals have the same depth of judgment and delicacy of feeling as those of janitresses and kept women….

The fact that there are men who could become enamoured of this slut is indeed a proof of the abasement of the men of this generation.

Above: George Sand as Mary Magdalene

In 1822, at the age of 18, Sand married Casimir Dudevant, an out-of-wedlock son of Baron Jean-François Dudevant.

She and Dudevant had two children: 

Maurice and Solange.

Above: Casimir Dudevant (1795 – 1871)

In 1825, she had an intense, but perhaps platonic, affair with the young lawyer Aurélien de Sèze.

Above: Aurélien de Sèze (1799 – 1870)

In early 1831, she left her husband and entered upon a four- or five-year period of “romantic rebellion“.

In 1835, she was legally separated from Dudevant and took custody of their children.

Sand had romantic affairs with:

  • novelist Jules Sandeau

Above: Jules Sandeau (1811 – 1883)

  • writer Prosper Mérimée

Above: Prosper Mérimée (1803 – 1870)

  • dramatist Alfred de Musset

Above: Alfred de Musset (1810 – 1857)

  • actor Pierre François Bocage

Above: Pierre Martinien Tousez (aka Bocage) (1799 – 1862)

  • writer Charles Didier

Above: Charles Didier (1805 – 1864)

  • novelist Félicien Mallefille

Above: Félicien Mallefille (1813 – 1868)

  • politician Louis Blanc

Above: Louis Blanc (1811 – 1862)

  • composer Frédéric Chopin

Above: Frédéric Chopin (1810 – 1849)

Later in her life, she corresponded with Gustave Flaubert.

Despite their differences in temperament and aesthetic preference, they eventually became close friends.

She engaged in an intimate romantic relationship with actress Marie Dorval.

Above: Marie Dorval (1798 – 1849)

Fyodor Dostoevsky “read widely in the numerous novels of George Sand” and translated her La dernière Aldini in 1844, but “discovered to his dismay that the work had already appeared in Russian“. 

In his mature period, he expressed an ambiguous attitude towards her.

Above: Fyodor Dostoevsky (1821 – 1881)

For instance, in his novella Notes from Underground, the narrator writes:

I launch off at that point into European, inexplicably lofty subtleties a la George Sand.

Above: First edition of Notes from Underground (in Russian), 1866

The English poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning wrote two poems:

  • To George Sand: A Desire
  • To George Sand: A Recognition

Above: Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806 – 1861)

The American poet Walt Whitman cited Sand’s novel Consuelo as a personal favorite, and the sequel to this novel, La Comtesse de Rudolstadt, contains at least a couple of passages that appear to have had a very direct influence on him.

Above: Walt Whitman (1819 – 1892)

In addition to her influences on English and Russian literature, Sand’s writing and political views informed numerous 19th century authors in Spain and Latin America, including Gertrudis Gómez de Avellaneda, the Cuban-born writer who also published and lived in Spain.

Critics have noted structural and thematic similarities between George Sand’s Indiana, published in 1832, and Gómez de Avellaneda’s anti-slavery novel Sab, published in 1841.

Above: Gertrudis Gómez de Avellaneda (1814 – 1873)

In the first episode of the “Overture” to Swann’s Way — the first novel in Marcel Proust’s In Search of Lost Time sequence — a young, distraught Marcel is calmed by his mother as she reads from François le Champi, a novel which (it is explained) was part of a gift from his grandmother, which also included La Mare au DiableLa Petite Fadette, and Les Maîtres Sonneurs.

As with many episodes involving art in À la recherche du temps perdu, this reminiscence includes commentary on the work.

Above: Marcel Proust (1871 – 1922)

Sand is also referred to in Virginia Woolf’s book-length essay A Room of One’s Own, along with George Eliot and Charlotte Brontë as:

All victims of inner strife as their writings prove, sought ineffectively to veil themselves by using the name of a man.

Above: Virginia Woolf (1882 – 1941)

Frequent literary references to George Sand can be found in Possession (1990) by A. S. Byatt and in the play Voyage, the first part of Tom Stoppard’s The Coast of Utopia trilogy (2002).

Above: Antonia Susan Byatt

Above: Tom Stoppard

George Sand makes an appearance in Isabel Allende’s Zorro, going still by her given name, as a young girl in love with Diego de la Vega (Zorro).

Above: Isabel Allende

Chopin, Sand and her children are the main characters of the theater play by Polish writer Jaroslaw Iwaszkiewicz “A Summer in Nohant“, which premiered in 1930.

The play, presenting the final stage of the writer-composer’s relationship, was adapted five times by Polish television:

  • in 1963 (with Antonina Gordon-Górecka as Sand and Gustaw Holoubek as Chopin)
  • in 1972 (with Halina Mikołajska and Leszek Herdegen)
  • in 1980 (with Anna Polony and Michał Pawlicki)
  • in 1999 (with Joanna Szczepkowska, who portrayed Solange in the 1980 version, and Piotr Skiba)
  • in 2021 (with Katarzyna Herman and Marek Kossakowski).

Above: Jarosław Iwaszkiewicz (1894 – 1980)

George Sand is portrayed by: 

  • Mèrle Oberon in A Song to Remember

  • Patricia Morison in Song Without End

  • Rosemary Harris in Notorious Woman (1974)

  • Judy Davis in James Lapine’s 1991 British-American film Impromptu

  • Juliette Binoche in the 1999 French film Children of the Century (Les Enfants du siècle)

  • in George Who? (George qui?), a 1973 French biographical film directed by Michèle Rosier and starring Anne Wiazemsky as Sand

  • in the 2002 Polish film Chopin: Desire for Love, directed by Jerzy Antczak, George Sand is portrayed by Danuta Stenka

If I become better known as Canada Slim and that name is equated with quality, then why would it be necessary for my work to bear the name on my birth certificate?

Changing George to Mary Ann or Amantine will neither enhance nor detract from the quality of their writing.

Frankly, I doubt the dead much care about our present sensitivities.

Feminism is about women liberating themselves – changing perceptions, laws, employment practices, and so on.

Feminism is easily the biggest movement in human history.

Women across all cultures and religions have suffered immeasurably for thousands of years and now are catching up.

Real gains have been made by women, but you cannot liberate only half of the human race.

The idea of liberating women from men assumes that men were somehow the winners in a power struggle and that power was what life was all about.

Feminism assumes that men are having a good time.

It is much more realistic to say that both men and women are trapped in a system which damages them both.

The way forward lies not in women fighting men but in women and men together fighting the ancient stupidities that have been bequeathed to them.

Consider the business and professional world.

Women have learned to compete on male terms.

They live like men, talk like men, exploit like men.

They inherit ulcers, heart attacks and children who hate them.

Welcome to the privileged world of men.

Any move to change the order of things which does not also address the fact that men are equally lost, trapped and miserable, will only create its own resistance.

Feminism elevates women from a long subservience.

It is important and must continue.

But most men have been subservient too – to a dehumanizing system that only grew worse with the advent of the industrial era.

Above: Charlie Chaplin (1889 – 1977), Modern Times (1936)

A woman, despite the strides and advances feminism has made, can still seek not to work if she is clever and attractive.

Life offers the human being two choices: animal existence – a lower order of life – and spiritual existence.

We have the same intellectual potential.

There is no primary difference in intelligence between the sexes.

I welcome women who seek to utilize their potential, their intelligence, ambition, industry and pertinacity, but that being said, what is the point of a man seeking the companionship of a woman, such as one of the two aforementioned Georges, if by sheer virtue of their gender a man must subject all of his potential to a woman who feels no guilt in abandoning him on a whim despite all that he may have done for her previously required?

From my reading of the histories of the two Georges and from the literature that these authors produced, it strikes me that they sought the freedom to do as they so chose with all the privileges that union with a man offered without the reciprocal responsibility that a relationship is supposed to infer.

We muse on the lives of these women, but we are curiously incurious as to the emotional distress they caused their men and children in the wake of their liberation.

Sand had a dozen lovers that we know of.

Eliot had an affair with a married man then later with a man significantly younger than herself.

Did they have the right to live their lives and love whomsoever they chose?

Certainly.

But at what cost to those who were intimate with them?

This remains unspoken.

In a bar in Toledo, across from the depot
On a barstool, she took off her ring
I thought I’d get closer, so I walked on over
I sat down and asked her name
When the drinks finally hit her, she said
I’m no quitter
But I finally quit livin’ on dreams
I’m hungry for laughter and here ever after
I’m after whatever the other life brings
.”
In the mirror, I saw him, and I closely watched him
I thought how he looked out of place
He came to the woman who sat there beside me
He had a strange look on his face
The big hands were calloused, he looked like a mountain
For a minute I thought I was dead
But he started shaking, his big heart was breaking
He turned to the woman and said
:

You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
With four hungry children and a crop in the field.
I’ve had some bad times, lived through some sad times,
But this time your hurting won’t heal.
You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
.”

After he left us, I ordered more whiskey
I thought how she’d made him look small.
From the lights of the barroom
To a rented hotel room
We walked without talking at all.
She was a beauty, but when she came to me,
She must have thought I’d lost my mind.
I couldn’t hold her, ’cause the words that he told her
Kept coming back time after time
:

You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
With four hungry children and a crop in the field
I’ve had some bad times, lived through some sad times
But this time your hurting won’t heal
You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
*

They chose to emulate male privilege but acted without male compulsion to guard the feelings of those with whom they were involved.

They hid behind male pseudonyms for their own profit and protection.

This does not diminish the power of the prose they created, but as their fame lay in the pen names they chose for themselves, I do not think a great service is done to the memory of their accomplishments should their works revert to their original feminine names nor a disservice done should their pen names remain to identify their works.

Let us praise a person not by virtue of their gender, but in spite of it.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Roger Axtel, Do’s and Taboos Around the World / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / George Eliot, Middlemarch / Alison Flood, “Female authors make debuts under their real names“, The Guardian, 12 August 2020 / George Sand, Indiana / Esther Vilar, The Manipulated Man

Canada Slim and the Palace of Pain

Eskişehir, Turkey, Sunday 29 May 2022

In my last post, after much struggling with both technology and a man cold, I wrote of my reasons for leaving Switzerland.

I began to draw parallels between my life and the lives of others, especially the life of deposed and exiled King Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden.

To fully comprehend the pain of exile and living far from the familiar, a prologue is needed that focuses on the life of Gustav’s wife Frederica.

Above: Queen Frederica of Sweden (1781 – 1826)

Frederica of Baden was born in Karlsruhe in the Grand Duchy of Baden on 12 March 1781, as the daughter of Karl Ludwig of Baden and Amalie of Hesse-Darmstadt.

Frederica, in her family known as Frick (Frique), was given a conventional and shallow education by a French-Swiss governess in Karlsruhe, and has been described as intellectually shallow.

Already as a child, she was described as a beauty, but she was also reported to have a weak constitution, having suffered from rheumatism from the age of two.

Above: Karlsruhe Palace, Germany

Because her maternal aunt Natalia Alexeievna had been the first spouse of Grand Duke Paul of Russia (later Emperor Paul I), Frederica and her sisters were early considered by Russian Empress Catherine the Great as future brides of her grandsons, Grand Duke Alexander of Russia (later Emperor Alexander) and Grand Duke Constantine of Russia.

In 1792, she and her sister Louise of Baden (later Empress Elizabeth Alexeievna of Russia) visited Empress Catherine in St. Petersburg.

The purpose was, unofficially, to be inspected as future brides.

Above: Empress Catherine II of Russia (1729 – 1796)

Her sister was chosen to marry Alexander.

Above: Empress Elisabeth Alexeievna of Russia (1779 – 1826)

Frederica returned to Baden in the autumn of 1793.

In October 1797, Frederica of Baden married King Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden.

The marriage had been arranged by Gustav IV Adolf himself, after he had refused to marry first Duchess Louise Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, since his desired marriage to Ebba Modée had been refused him, and second the Russian Grand Duchess Alexandra Pavlovna, because her proposed marriage contract would have allowed Alexandra to keep her Orthodox faith.

Above: Duchess Louise Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Schwerin (1779 – 1801)

Above: Ebba Modée (1775 – 1840) (left) and Count Axel Otto Mörner

Above: Archduchess / Palatina Alexander Pavlovna of Austria-Hungary (1783 – 1801)

Frederica of Baden was seen as a suitable choice:

Russia could not officially disapprove a new bride after the Russian Grand Duchess had been refused if the bride was the sister-in-law of Grand Duke Alexander, which indirectly preserved an alliance between Sweden and Russia. 

Additionally, Gustaf IV Adolf wanted a beautiful spouse and expected her to be so after having had a good impression of her sister during his visit to Russia the year prior. 

The King visited Erfurt to see her and her family himself in August 1797, the engagement was declared immediately after, and the first marriage ceremony conducted in October.

Above: Erfurt Cathedral, Germany

On 6 October 1797, Frederica of Baden was married per procura (Latin for “through the agency“, meaning that a person is signing a document on behalf of another person) to King Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden in Stralsund in Swedish Pomerania, with the Swedish negotiator Baron Evert Taube as proxy for the monarch.

Above: Stralsund, Germany

She left her mother and her sister Maria, who had accompanied her to Swedish Pomerania, and was escorted by Baron Taube by sea to Karlskrona in Sweden, where she was welcomed by the King.

Above: Modern Karlskrona, Sweden

The entourage continued to Drottingholm Palace, where she was introduced to the members of the royal house and court.

Finally, she made her official entrance in the capital.

The second wedding ceremony was conducted in the royal chapel on 31 October 1797.

She was sixteen years old.

Above: Drottingham Palace, Stockholm, Sweden

Queen Frederica was admired for her beauty but made a bad impression because of her shyness, which caused her to isolate herself and refrain from fulfilling her ceremonial duties.

She disliked society life and representation.

Her chief lady in waiting, Countess Hedda Piper, reportedly contributed to her isolation by claiming that etiquette banned the Queen from engaging in conversation unless introduced by her chief lady in waiting:

This was in fact incorrect, but it made the Queen dependent on Piper.

Above: Countess Hedda Piper (1746 – 1812)

Frederica found it difficult to adapt to court etiquette and protocol and isolated herself with her courtiers.

With the exception of her chief lady in waiting, Countess Piper, the King had appointed girls in about the same age as herself to be her courtiers, such as Aurora Wilhelmina Koskull, Fredrika von Kaulbars and Emilie De Geer, with whom she reportedly played children’s games.

She was treated with kindness by her mother-in-law, Sophia Magdalena of Denmark, who remembered how ill she herself had been treated by her own mother-in-law.

Above: Queen Sophia Magdalena of Sweden (1746 – 1813)

The relationship between Frederica and Gustav IV Adolf was initially not good.

Both being inexperienced, they reportedly had difficulty in connecting sexually, which frustrated the King and caused him to behave with impatient displeasure and suspicion toward her, which worsened the problems because of the shyness of the introvert Frederica.

This attracted attention when the King had the Queen’s favourite maid of honour exiled from court for impertinence, which also worsened the conflict. 

Above: Gustav IV Adolf and Queen Frederica of Sweden

The problems were however solved through the mediation of Duchess Charlotte.

For the rest of her marriage, Frederica was almost constantly pregnant.

This did not benefit the marriage from her point of view, as they were not sexually compatible:

The King, who had a strong sexual nature but disliked extramarital sex, was sometimes delayed for hours after “having entered the Queen’s bed chamber” in the morning, so much that the members of the royal council saw themselves obliged to interrupt and ask the King to “spare the Queen’s health“, while Frederica complained in letters to her mother how it tired and exhausted her without giving fulfillment.

Frederica was shocked and intrigued by the sexually liberal Swedish court, and wrote to her mother that she was likely the only woman there who did not have at least three or four lovers, and that the royal Duchess Charlotte were said to have both male and female lovers.

Above: Queen Charlotte of Sweden and Norway (1759 – 1818)

The relationship between the King and the Queen improved after the birth of their first child in 1799, after which they lived an intimate and harmonious family life, in which they grew close through their mutual interest in their children.

The King was reportedly protective toward her and guarded her sexual innocence.

In 1800, he had all her young maids of honor relieved from their positions because of their frivolous behaviour and replaced by older married ladies-in-waiting.

Six years later, when a frivolous play was performed by a French theatre company at the Royal Swedish Opera in the presence of the Queen, the King had the French theatre company exiled and the Opera closed down.

Above: Royal Swedish Opera, Stockholm

Queen Frederica was crowned with her spouse in Norrköping on 3 April 1800.

Above: Norrköping, Sweden, 1876

The royal couple did not participate much in representation and preferred an intimate family life in the small Haga Palace, where they isolated themselves from court life with but a small entourage.

Above: Haga Palace, Stockholm

Frederica amused the King by her skillful clavichord playing, was reportedly joyful in the company of her small circle of friends, especially in the absence of the monarch, and devoted herself to the upbringing of her children.

Above: A clavichord

She kept in close correspondence with her family, and, in 1801, welcomed her parents, who visited Sweden after having been in Russia to see her sister.

During this visit she was reportedly reproached by her mother for her stiff and distant behavior in public and not being able to make herself popular.

The visit ended unhappily as her father died due to an accident during the visit.

Above: Prince Karl Ludwig of Baden (1755 – 1801)

In 1802, Frederica accompanied her spouse to the province of Finland, during which a meeting was arranged between her (without the King) and her sisters, the Russian Empress Elizabeth and Amalie of Baden, in Abborrfors on the Russian border.

Above: Princess Amalie of Baden (1776 – 1823)

Above: Fort Svartholma, Abborrsfor, Finland

Gustav IV Adolf promised to visit her family in Baden, and in the summer of 1803, they travelled to Karlsruhe.

They did not return until February 1805, which created dislike in Sweden.

Frederica was blamed for the long absence of the monarch.

Above: Flag of the Grand Duchy of Baden

Frederica was not allowed to accompany the King when he left for Germany to participate in the War of the Fourth Coalition in November 1805, nor was she appointed to serve in the regency during his absence.

During his absence, however, she came to be regarded as a symbol of moral support.

Duchess Charlotte describes the dramatic scene when the Queen returned to the royal palace in Stockholm after having said goodbye to the King:

The members of government and the court of their majesties met her in the palace hall.

Crying bitterly she walked upstairs directly to the apartments of the children, where the members of the royal house was gathered.

Close to fainting, she could hardly breathe and fell down upon a couch.

There she lay with the handkerchief to her eyes, exposed to the deepest pain, surrounded by the children, who rushed to her, and the rest of us who, very concerned, tried to show her sympathy.

She truly gave the impression of already being a widow, especially since she was dressed in black.

I cannot describe the touching scene!

Add her youth and beauty, a beauty highlighted by the sorrow, and nothing was lacking to arouse the most fervent compassion for the poor Queen.”

During the rest of the King’s absence, she attracted public sympathy for isolating herself completely as a display of sorrow and longing after the King.

Above: Royal Palace, Stockholm

In the winter of 1806 – 1807, she joined the King in Malmö, where she hosted her sister Princess Marie of Baden, who was a refugee after having fled Napoleon’s conquest of the Duchy of Brunswick.

Above: Images of modern Malmö, Sweden

Above: Duchess Marie of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel (1782 – 1808)

Frederica had no direct influence on the affairs of state and did not seem to have been interested in them except when they affected her small circle of family and friends.

She was, however, indirectly involved in politics through her family and especially through her mother, who reportedly affected her spouse against French Emperor Napoleon.

In 1807, during the War of the Fourth Coalition, Frederica intervened politically.

Her sister, the Russian Empress, sent her a letter through their mother, that she should use her influence to advise the King to make peace with France, and that anything else would be a mistake.

She did make an attempt to accomplish this, but the King viewed it as an attempt to influence him in favor of Napoleon.

Her interference in the matter caused a conflict between the King and Queen. 

Above: French Emperor Napoleon I (1769 – 1821)

In one political issue, Frederica took an interest during her marriage an successfully enforced, though her reason was not political.

Already during the first years of heir marriage, the King often spoke of his wish to abdicate in favor of a simple family as a private person life abroad.

To this, Frederica always objected and did not hesitate to enforce her opinion even when it led to arguments, but her foremost reason to this was reportedly that if her spouse abdicated, it would result in them having to leave their son, who would be succeed his father, behind them.

On 12 March 1809, King Gustav IV Adolf left her and the children at Haga Palace to deal with the rebellion of Georg Adlersparre.

Above: Georg Adlersparre (1760 – 1835)

The next day, Gustav was captured at the Royal Palace in Stockholm, imprisoned at Gripsholm Castle and deposed in favour of his uncle, who succeeded him as Charles XIII of Sweden on 6 June.

King Gustav IV Adolf was forcibly deposed on Monday, 13 March 1809, when a group of officers entered his chamber and seized his sword.

After some confusion, the King managed to escape through a side door with one of the conspirators’ swords.

But he did not get far.

He was captured in the courtyard by Master of the Hunt von Greiff.

Above: Gustav IV Adolf’s arrest

Above: King Charles XIII of Sweden (1748 – 1818)

According to the terms of deposition made on 10 May 1809, she was allowed to keep the title of Queen even after the deposition of her spouse.

Frederica and her children were kept under guard at Haga Palace.

The royal couple was initially kept separated because the coup leaders suspected her of planning a coup.

During her house arrest, her dignified behavior reportedly earned her more sympathy than she had been given her entire tenure as Queen.

Her successor, Queen Charlotte, who felt sympathy for her and often visited her, and wished to preserve the right to the throne for Frederica’s son, Gustav.

Above: Prince Gustav of Vasa (1799 – 1877)

Frederica told her that she was willing to separate from her son for the sake of succession.

She requested to be reunited with her spouse.

Her second request was granted her after intervention from Queen Charlotte.

Frederica and her children joined Gustav Adolf at Gripsholm Castle after the coronation of the new monarch on 6 June.

The relationship between the former King and Queen was reportedly well during their house arrest at Gripsholm.

During her house arrest at Gripsholm Castle, the question of her son Crown Prince Gustav’s right to the throne was not yet settled and a matter of debate.

There was a plan by a military faction led by General Eberhard von Vegesack to free Frederica and her children from the arrest, have her son declared monarch and Frederica as regent of Sweden during his minority.

Above: Eberhard von Vegesack (1763 – 1818)

These plans were in fact presented to her, but she declined:

The Queen displayed a nobility in her feelings, which makes her worthy of a crown of honor and placed her above the pitiful earthly royalty.

She did not listen to the secret proposals, made to her by a party, who wished to preserve the succession of the crown prince and wished, that she would remain in Sweden to become the regent during the minority of her son.

She explained with firmness, that her duty as a wife and mother told her to share the exile with her husband and children.

The removal of her son from the succession order, however, she nevertheless regarded as a legally wrongful.

Above: Gripsholm Castle, Mariefred, Sweden

The family left Sweden via three separate carriages.

Gustav Adolf and Frederica travelled in one carriage, escorted by General Skjöldebrand.

Their son Gustav travelled in the second with Colonel Baron Posse.

Their daughters (Sophie, Amalia and Cecelia) and their governess Von Panhuys travelled in the last carriage escorted by Colonel von Otter.

Frederica was offered to be escorted with all honours due to a member of the House of Baden if she travelled alone, but declined and brought no courtier with her, only her German chamber maid Elisabeth Freidlein.

The family left for Germany by ship from Karlskrona on 6 December 1809.

After stopping in Copenhagen and then in Frankfurt, they were welcomed in Bruchsal.

Above: Images of modern Copenhagen, Denmark

Above: Modern Frankfurt am Main, Germany

The family settled at the castle in Baden where Frederica grew up. 

Above: Bruchsal Castle, Germany

They said goodbye to their Swedish entourage, General Anders Fredrik Skjöldenbrand and Baron von Otter, and kept only one doctor, a stablemaster and the son’s teachers as Swedes at their court. 

Above: General Anders Fredrik Skjöldenbrand (1757 – 1834)

Now, you may legitimately ask, gentle readers, what this story of a long dead Swedish royal couple and the lives of your humble blogger and his queen have in common.

In our mutual travels together, she and I have visited Stockholm and Gripsholm.

Above: Gripsholm Castle

I no longer recall how we came to be in Sweden on vacation, but I recall we flew to Jönköping Airport, rented a car and drove to Stockholm, visiting Gripsholm en route to the Swedish capital.

Above: Flag of Sweden

Gripsholm Castle appealed to my wife as she had read in earlier days Schloss Gripsholm. Eine Sommergeschichte (Gripsholm Palace: A Summer Story) is the title of a story by Kurt Tucholsky, published in 1931.

It is a love story with comic and melancholic elements, reminiscent of the author’s first novel, Rheinsberg: Ein Bilderbuch für Verliebte (Rheinsberg: A Picture Book for Lovers).

The book begins with a fictional correspondence of an author and his publisher, Ernst Rowohlt, with Rowohlt encouraging Tucholsky to write another light and cheerful love story, and Tucholsky replying that he could offer a summer story.

The following story covers a summer vacation of Kurt, called Peter and narrating in the first person, with his friend Lydia, called by him almost always “die Prinzessin” (the princess), in Sweden.

After train and ferry rides, they arrive at Gripsholm Palace where they spend around three weeks.

They are visited there by Kurt’s old friend Karlchen, and later Lydia’s best friend Billie.

The story in episodes includes an erotic scene of three, unusual at the end of Weimar Germany, but also the observation of a little girl suffering under a sadistic German woman running a children’s home.

They contact the child’s mother who lives in Switzerland and organise the girl’s trip back to there.

The dedication of the story is “für IA 47 407” which is the license plate of the car of Lisa Matthias in Berlin, who was Tucholsky’s partner from 1927 to 1931.

Above: Lisa Matthias

Above: Tucholsky and Lisa Matthias in Läggesta, Sweden (1929)

Kurt Tucholsky (1890 – 1935) was a German journalist, satirist and writer.

He also wrote under the pseudonyms Kaspar HauserPeter PanterTheobald Tiger and Ignaz Wrobel.

Above: German commemorative stamp on the 50th anniversary of his death

Tucholsky was one of the most important journalists of the Weimar Republic.

He was a politically engaged journalist and temporary co-editor of the weekly magazine Die Weltbühne.

He was simultaneously a satirist, an author of satirical political revues, a songwriter and a poet.

He saw himself as a left wing democrat and pacifist and warned against anti-democratic tendencies – above all in politics, the military – and the threat of National Socialism.

His fears were confirmed when the Nazis came to power in January 1933.

In May of that year he was among the authors whose works were banned as “un-German” and burned.

He was also among the first authors and intellectuals whose German citizenship was revoked.

Above: Flag of National Socialism (Nazis)

Tucholsky was Weimar Germany’s most controversial political and cultural commentator, who published over 2,000 essays, manifestos, poems, critiques, aphorisms, and stories.

In his writings, he hit hard at his main enemies in Germany, whom he identified as haughty aristocrats, bellicose army officers, brutal policemen, reactionary judges, anti-republican officials, hypocritical clergyman, tyrannical professors, dueling fraternity students, ruthless capitalists, philistine burghers, opportunistic Jewish businessmen, fascistic petty-bourgeois, Nazis, even peasants, whom he considered generally dumb and conservative.

He is admired as an unsurpassed master of satire, of the short character sketch, and of the Berlin jargon.

His literary works were translated to English, including the 1912 Rheinsberg and the 1931 “summer story” Schloss Gripsholm.

Above: Rheinsberg Castle, Brandenburg, Germany

At first he emigrated to Paris, but in 1929 he decided to move to Sweden.

Above: Paul Tucholsky, Paris, France, 1928

He lived in Läggesta, close to Gripsholm Palace, from April to October that year, but searched for a different permanent home.

Above: Tucholsky’s last residence, Villa Nedsjölund, Läggesta, Sweden

Tucholsky wrote in a letter to Alfred Stern that Gripsholm Castle had only a few autobiographical features.

Tucholsky died in 1935 and is buried close to Gripsholm Palace.

Above: Final resting place with the inscription – “Everything ephemeral is just a parable.

As well, when the wife and I both lived in Freiburg im Breisgau, we travelled to Bruchsal Palace.

Above: Bruchsal Castle

I have worked in both Basel and St. Gallen where the Swedish King would spend his final days of exile – cities both my wife and I are quite familiar with.

And Gustav’s desire for a simpler life is a sentiment with which I can sympathize.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Bruchsal Palace (Schloss Bruchsal), also called the Damiansburg, is a Baroque palace complex located in Bruchsal, Germany.

The complex is made up of over 50 buildings.

These include a three-winged residential building with an attached chapel, four pavilions separated by a road, some smaller utility buildings, and a garden.

It is noted for its fine Rococo decoration and in particular its entrance staircase, which is regarded as one of the finest examples of its kind in any Baroque palace.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

The Palace was built in the first half of the 18th century by Damian Hugo Philipp von Schönborn, Prince Bishop of Speyer.

Schönborn drew on family connections to recruit building staff and experts in the Baroque style, most notably Balthasar Neumann.

Although intended to be the permanent residence of the Prince-Bishops, they occupied it for less than a century.

Above: Damian Hugo Philipp von Schönborn (1676 – 1743)

As a result of the Coalition Wars, the Prince-Bishopric of Speyer and the neighboring Margraviate of Baden had been forced to cede their territory on the left bank of the Rhine to France. 

Per the Treaty of Campo Formio, Baden was to be compensated with new territory.

Baden was given seven times the amount of land it had lost, at the expense of Austria, of ecclesiastical states, such as the Prince-Bishopric of Speyer.

This concession was confirmed in February 1803 by the Reichsdeputationshauptschluss.

Baden was soon raised to a Grand Duchy.

Above: Flag of Baden

Baden’s ruler, Charles Frederick, summarily occupied Bruchsal and forced the departure of the last Prince Bishop, Philipp Franz von Walderdorf.

Charles Frederick dissolved the “Principality” of Speyer and removed much of Bruchsal Palace’s furnishings to Karlsruhe, though he awarded Walderdorf a pension of 200,000 guilders and allowed him to reside at Bruchsal in the winters.

Above: Karl Friedrich von Baden (1728 – 1811)

Leopold, Maria Anna and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart visited Bruchsal Palace in July 1763 to begin a tour up the Rhine River.

Above: Leopold Mozart (1719 – 1787)

Above: Maria Anna Mozart (née Lange) (1751 – 1829)

Above: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756 – 1791)

Leopold wrote of the Palace on 19 July:

“The Residence of Bruchsal is worth seeing, its rooms being in the very best taste, not numerous, but so noble, indescribably charming and precious.

Above: The north orangery, Bruchsal Palace

When Charles Frederick died, Walderdorf shared Bruchsal with the Grand Duke’s widow, Amalie of Hesse-Darmstadt with her unmarried daughter, Amalie Christiane von Baden, who had been replaced at court by Stéphanie de Beauharnais.

Amalie spent three to four months of every summer at the Palace, time she spent in a constant monotony that she often took vacations to escape.

Amalie’s household at Bruchsal and its upkeep was at her own expense.

Above: Amalie von Hessen-Darmstadt (1754 – 1832)

The early 19th century traveller Charles Edward Dodd, who visited the Palace around 1818, described its “deserted splendour” wherein “the gay ladies of Princess Amalie’s court complain bitterly of its magnificent dreariness“.

Two other contemporary visitors, Frederick William III of Prussia and the Russian empress Elizabeth Alexeievna, also noted the droll state of Bruchsal Palace.

Above: Frederick William III, King of Prussia (1770 – 1840)

Above: Empress Elisabeth Alexeievna of Russia (1779 – 1826)

Bruchsal’s citizenry adored Amalie, though, and mourned her death on 27 July 1832.

Above: Coat of arms of Bruchsal

Following Amalie von Baden’s death, Bruchsal Palace was used for myriad purposes while it steadily deteriorated.

After the death of the late royal inhabitant of the palace in 1832, the fate of Bruchsal Palace remained uncertain for a long time.

The state of Baden searched for new ways to use it for a long time:

Could it be apartments for future teachers or for a French nobleman?

Above: Bruchsal Palace

In 1849, during the Baden Revolution, the ground floor of the corps de logis was used for a barracks and later a military hospital for Prussian soldiers.

Above: Battle of Kandern, Baden Revolution, 20 April 1848

In 1869, two years before the Palace vanished from guide books in Germany, the Grand Duchy of Baden’s Ministry of the Interior made plans to move a Catholic seminary into the Palace.

A major renovation was planned to fit the school, but were short lived.

Above: Flag of the Grand Duchy of Baden

In 1869, Baden’s minister of the interior wanted to move the Catholic teacher’s academy in Ettlingen to Bruchsal Palace.

Extensive renovations were planned: interior walls added in the great hall to create apartments, toilets installed in the prince-bishop’s palace church and in the Watteau Cabinet, a room with red paneling and paintings in the style of the artist Antoine Watteau.

At some point, the plans were thrown out —

Luckily, from today’s point of view.

Above: 1870 photograph of the palace interior – Page room, Watteau Cabinet and bedroom

Not found in any travel guide, the Palace lies unknown and unvisited in a small city…, was written about Bruchsal Palace in a photo map from 1871.

After the death of Margravine Amalie von Baden, the Palace has rarely used for royal purposes instead being used as offices and military headquarters.

The plaster on the facades crumbled.

The importance of the Palace as a significant monument to architecture and art was slowly recognized.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

A decade later in 1880, the court jeweler of the Landgrave of Hesse wrote to the Baden government on behalf of the Vicomte de Montfort, a Parisian aristocrat.

The Würtzburg court jeweler of the Landgrave of Hessen wrote on behalf of Vicomte de Montfort.

Above: Coat of arms of Hesse

The wealthy nobleman from Paris wanted to buy, renovate, and permanently live in Bruchsal Palace.

If necessary, he would have been satisfied with just the most magnificent part: the central building with the courtyard and garden.

He would have liked to purchase at least some furniture, mirrors, or tapestries to create a building in the style of Bruchsal Palace.

After some discussion, the request was declined.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

Beginning at this time, hundreds of high-quality photographs were made of the Palace’s interiors.

A restoration of the palace grounds was carried out at Bruchsal from 1900 to 1909 under the direction of German art historian Fritz Hirsch.

Above: Fritz Hirsch (1871 – 1938), with wife Anna and son Peter

The Grand Duchy of Baden was dissolved on 9 November 1918, followed by Grand Duke Frederick II’s abdication on 22 November.

Above: Grand Duke Friedrich II of Baden (1857 – 1928)

The bel étage was opened to the public as a permanent exhibit of the palace’s treasures in the 1920s.

Above: Bel étage, Bruchsal Palace

On 1 March 1945, only two months before the end of the Second World War, much of the palace was destroyed in an American air raid directed against nearby railway installations.

The 379th Expeditionary Operations Group attacked and destroyed the city’s marshalling yard. 

Above: Logo of the US Army Air Corps (1941 – 1947)

80% of the city was destroyed, as was Bruchsal Palace, incinerated to just the staircase and some of the façade.

Above: Ruins of Bruchsal Palace, 1945

After the end of the War, the first task was to create emergency lodging.

In 1946, work began on rebuilding the outbuildings to serve as offices and apartments.

For a long time, the ruins of the Palace’s central buildings remained unprotected.

It was more than a year before it received an emergency roof.

The consequence:

Rain and frost had damaged the complex.

Due to a danger of collapse, a portion of the remaining wall was completely demolished.

Thus, the Palace suffered further losses after the destruction.

Above: Ruins of Bruchsal Palace, 1945

Reconstruction, aided by the pictures taken in the late 19th century, began the next year with some of the minor buildings put back together to provide administrative offices and temporary housing. 

In 1947, work on the residential structure began in the Chamber Wing.

In the 1950s, the Chamber Music Hall, the church tower, and the shell of the palace’s central building were recreated.

Above: Chamber Music Hall, Bruchsal Palace

The next step was the interior, which posed the greatest challenge.

The wall and ceiling decorations were reconstructed in the most important rooms along the central axis.

The Domed Hall, Royal Hall, and Marble Hall were given their colorful frescoes and gilded stucco once again.

Above: Domed Hall, Bruchsal Palace

Above: Royal Hall, Bruchsal Palace

Above: Marble Hall, Bruchsal Palace

The shell of the corps de logis was rebuilt from 1953 to 1956, though conversely the church wing was demolished in 1959.

Above: Corps de logis, Bruchsal Palace

A stroke of luck:

Hundreds of photographs of the Palace taken between 1870 and 1945 had been preserved, some even in colour.

They served as a pattern for the reconstruction of the ceiling frescoes.

Above: Ceiling fresco, Bruchsal Palace

Instead of the apartments that once stood alongside the ceremonial halls on the second story, modern, open exhibition rooms were created for the Badisches Landesmuseum.

Above: Entry into the Badisches Landesmuseum (Baden State Museum), Bruchsal Palace

More than 1,000 square meters were reverted back to the old layout of the bel étage.

Modern technology was also installed to meet modern needs for heating, light and air conditioning.

The former Prince-Bishops’ apartment was then furnished according to old inventory lists and photographs.

Furniture, paintings, tapestries: more than 350 works of art from the bel étage were stored elsewhere during World War II.

They were carefully restored before once again being displayed in the bel étage.

In 1975, the Palace was reopened.

The reconstruction of the frescoes on the ground floor, the exterior areas, and the garden took until 1996.

Above: The Prince-Bishop’s private rooms

To commemorate the 50th anniversary of Franco-German friendship, French President François Mitterand and German Chancellor Helmut Kohl met at Bruchsal Palace on 12 November 1987.

Above: French President François Mitterand (1916 – 1996) / German Chancellor Helmut Kohl (1930 – 2017)

At a joint dinner at Bruchsal Palace, the heads of state discussed the past 25 years of German-French friendship.

In his speech, Helmut Kohl greeted the guests:

Ladies and gentlemen!

I am very happy to welcome you to Bruchsal Palace.

We meet tonight for the 50th time, because President de Gaulle and President Konrad Adenauer signed the treaty on German-French collaboration nearly 25 years ago.

Above: French President Charles de Gaulle (1890-1970)/German Chancellor Konrad Adenauer (1876-1967)

In mid-1981, François Mitterrand was elected President of France.

He discovered the increasing importance of European politics and worked with Federal Chancellor Helmut Kohl to develop the European Community into the European Union.

Above: The European Union (in green)

On 22 September 1984, Kohl and Mitterrand met at the site of the 1916 Battle of Verdun to jointly commemorate the dead of the two world wars.

The two politicians clasped hands for one minute to symbolize German and French reconciliation.

Above: Mitterand and Kohl, Verdun, France, 22 September 1984

The interiors have been partly restored and the Palace now houses two museums, the German Music Machine Museum, with its fascinating collection of self-playing instruments, and the Bruchsal City Museum.

Above: German Museum of Mechanical Musical Instruments, Bruchsal Palace

Above: Map of Bruchsal Palace

The entrance hall, or intrada, creates a lively first impression of the palace with its bright, illusionistic paintings.

The ceiling fresco has a moral, Christian motif:

The victory of the seven cardinal virtues over sin.

There were artificial grottoes in many Baroque gardens.

In Bruchsal Palace, a similar space was created in the interior.

Despite many openings to the staircase, the grotto is only dimly lit, creating the impression of a cave.

This type of space was intended to symbolize the earthly realm.

Plants, shells, fountains and river gods can be seen on the walls, references to the life-giving energy of water.

On the ceiling, the painting gives a view of what lies above, in a sky populated with birds. 

Above: Intrada, Bruchsal Palace

Many of the paintings on the ground floor, created by Giovanni Francesco Marchini, were reconstructed after World War II.

The stone benches along the walls are particularly lovely.

It is tempting to sit down on them, but they are only painted on the walls!

On the left wall, original remains of Marchini’s frescoes have been preserved: depictions of antique temple ruins, coloured red by the fire after the bombing in 1945.

Above : Ground floor, Bruchsal Palace

The wounds inflicted by World War II can be seen even more clearly in the Garden Hall:

The choice was made not to fully reconstruct these paintings.

After World War II, rain and frost damaged the unprotected ruins further.

On the ceiling of the hall, the layer of paint peeled off, allowing Marchini’s original sketches to become visible.

The destruction and reconstruction of Bruchsal Palace is documented in the permanent exhibition, “Built, Destroyed, Rebuilt” left of the Garden Hall.

Above: Ruins of Bruchsal Palace, 1945

On an oval floor plan, the two stairways swing up, allowing an open view down to the grotto.

With increasing height, the staircase grows brighter from the atria on the sides and from above.

The destination of the climb is impressive:

A large, painted cupola crowns the oval space, which also forms a bridge-like connection between the two ceremonial halls, the Royal Hall and the Marble Hall.

The grotto, stairs and the Domed Hall form a cohesive whole, a truly unique combination.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

The bel étage, the main residential storey of Bruchsal Palace, shows the artistic sense of the Prince-Bishops of Speyer:

Richly furnished ceremonial halls with impressive iconography and precious furniture and tapestries in the refurbished apartments.

Above: Bel étage, Bruchsal Palace

The Domed Hall crowns the staircase, which leads to the two ceremonial halls of the Palace.

A cycle of large ceiling paintings begins in the Domed Hall, at the end of the staircase.

Franz Christoph von Hutten and his predecessor, Damian Hugo von Schönborn, can be seen in the two primary scenes, presented as builders and patrons of art and architecture.

Above: Domed Hall, Bruchsal Palace

The Royal Hall is the ceremonial hall closest to the city.

The Royal Hall was one of the two ceremonial halls of the bel étage.

As in ancestral portrait galleries of worldly rulers, Hutten and his Prince-Bishop predecessors are on display, beginning with Eberhard von Dienheim, whose rule began in 1581.

The portraits refer to the tradition of rule by Prince-Bishop, which would only last 50 more years, ending with secularization in 1803.

The ceiling fresco was intended to express the “flourishing present” of the Prince-Bishopric of Speyer in all its facets.

Above: Royal Hall, Bruchsal Palace

The Marble Hall lies in the direction of the garden.

It is the architectural and programmatic center of the spiritual residence.

Magnificent columns, delicate stucco, marble, and gold: In the palace’s most ceremonial room, the Marble Hall, the Rococo style reaches a climax.

The room gets its name from the combination of real stone and stucco marble.

Countless gods and other figures populate the ceiling.

Again and again, they seek to halt time: the Prince-Bishopric shall last forever, they seem to say.

Above: Marble Hall, Bruchsal Palace

To the side of the Marble Hall closest to the garden, two representational apartments attach to the right and left.

They are almost identical in terms of the number of rooms and the quality of the décor.

This doubled sequence of staterooms was suited to a high-ranking imperial prince like the Prince-Bishop of Speyer.

Above: Coat of arms of the Prince-Bishop of Speyer

In the center of the reconstructed enfilade stand Bruchsal’s artistic treasures:

Precious tapestries, Roentgen furniture, magnificent writing desks and a unique set of Savonnerie carpets.

Above: Marble Hall, Bruchsal Palace

When important visitors were staying in the Palace, the master of the house left them the sumptuous northern apartment and moved into the more modest south wing.

However, the difference between the sequence of rooms was slight, as both state apartments had to appropriately represent the Prince-Bishop.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

The Yellow Room, the antechamber to the southern state apartment, holds what remains of the Rococo pieces that once decorated all the rooms.

The furniture on display from the workshop of Abraham Roentgen is some of the most precious furniture of the Palace.

Above: Cabinetmaker Abraham Roentgen (1711 – 1793)

The commodes and the game tables were part of a delivery of “seven pieces of wooden goods” to Prince-Bishop von Hutten in 1764.

Above: Prince-Bishop Franz Christoph von Hutten (1706 – 1770)

The tapestries hung here show scenes from the Old Testament.

They are among the oldest tapestries in Bruchsal Palace.

Above: Tapestry, Bruchsal Palace

When the Prince-Bishop lived in the southern apartment, the Red Room served as his audience chamber.

The paintings and furniture presented here escaped destruction in 1945 because they had been moved out in 1939.

Prince-Bishop Cardinal Franz Christoph von Hutten had himself magnificently represented in a portrait by Nikolaus Treu.

Clothed in purple, with the breast cross bestowed on him on his robe, von Hutten stands before Bruchsal Palace, while his page hands him his biretta.

Above: Hutten Portrait

The Green Room is the bedroom in the south apartment.

Even in the 18th century, it was already done up in shades of green: green varnish on the wood paneling, doors, and window frames, a pastel green ceiling, and wall panels covered with green damask.

The bed described in 1817, with a canopy and curtains made of damask, no longer exists.

Today, a reproduction bed stands in its place.

The original bed canopy and hangings of red silk are decorated with metallic embroidery.

Above: Green Room, Bruchsal Palace

The magnificent furnishings of the Watteau Cabinet were almost completely lost in World War II.

The pieces that have been preserved include a cast iron vase, which was discovered in the palace garden in 2014 and now stands in the cabinet once again.

Above: Watteau Cabinet, Bruchsal Palace

The “Veston tapestries” in the neighboring dressing room dominate the space with their colourful images of flowers and fruit.

Above: Tapestries, Bruchsal Palace

The Prince-Bishop’s chamber servants lived in the pages’ room next door.

Simple furniture characterizes this room.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

In the northern state apartment, the Prince-Bishop conducted the business of government and held audiences.

Above: Northern state apartment, Bel étage, Bruchsal Palace

The Hunting Room was both an antechamber and a dining hall.

Here, visitors and supplicants waited for an audience with the Prince-Bishop.

Stucco and wood carving that depicts motifs of hunting and fishing gave the room its name.

Today, four small paintings on the theme of hunting commemorate the former furnishings.

The walls are also decorated with tapestries from the “Grotesque series” created between 1685 and 1719.

On some tapestries, dancers, musicians, and an elephant driver can be seen.

Above: Hunting Pavilion, Bruchsal Palace

Cherubs playing music, twittering birds, and musical instruments made of stucco give the room its name.

It served as an additional antechamber to the throne room.

Above: Music Room, Bruchsal Palace

The overdoors with scenes from the legend of the Roman Gaius Mucius Scaevola, a reference to the knowledge of the literature of antiquity and virtues of Franz Christoph von Hutten, have been preserved.

Above: Matthias Stom, Mucius Scaevola in the Presence of Lars Porsenna

(Gaius Mucius Cordus, better known with his later cognomen Scaevola, was an ancient Roman youth, possibly mythical, famous for his bravery.

In 508 BCE, during the war between Rome and Clusium, the Clusian King Lars Porsena laid siege to Rome.

Gaius Mucius Cordus, with the approval of the Roman Senate, sneaked into the Etruscan camp with the intent of murdering Porsena.

Since it was the soldiers’ pay day, there were two similarly dressed people, one of whom was the King, on a raised platform speaking to the troops.

This caused Mucius to misidentify his target, and he killed Porsena’s scribe by mistake.

After being captured, he famously declared to Porsena:

I am Gaius Mucius, a citizen of Rome.

I came here as an enemy to kill my enemy, and I am as ready to die as I am to kill.

We Romans act bravely and, when adversity strikes, we suffer bravely.

He also declared that he was the first of 300 Roman youths to volunteer for the task of assassinating Porsena at the risk of losing their own lives.

He is said to have declared:

Watch, so that you know how cheap the body is to men who have their eye on great glory.”

Mucius thrust his right hand into a fire which was lit for sacrifice and held it there without giving any indication of pain, thereby earning for himself and his descendants the cognomen Scaevola, meaning “left-handed“.

Porsena was shocked at the youth’s bravery, and dismissed him from the Etruscan camp, free to return to Rome, saying:

Go back, since you do more harm to yourself than me.”

At the same time, the King also sent ambassadors to Rome to offer peace.

Mucius was granted farming land on the right-hand bank of the Tiber, which later became known as the Mucia Prata (Mucian Meadows).

Above: Defence and Freedom – Mucius Scaevola in the Presence of Lars Porsenna

It is not too surprisingly that a cultured palace contains a reference to Scaevola, for he has been mentioned in popular culture over two millennia:

  • Dante Alighieri refers to Mucius and the sacrifice of his hand within the Divine Comedy. In Paradiso Canto 4: 82–87, along with St. Lawrence (3rd century CE), Mucius is depicted as a person possessing the rarest and firmest of wills.

Above: Dante Alighieri (1265 – 1321)

  • In a poem in Musa Posthuma, Martha Marchina compared Mucius unfavorably to the martyr Martha and suggests that Martha was the stronger hero because she suffered worse on behalf of God.

Above: First edition of The Posthumous Muse of Martha Marchina, the Virgin of Naples, 1662

  • Jean-Jacques Rousseau mentions in Book One of his Confessions that as a child, he attempted to replicate Mucius’ action by placing his hand over a chafing dish.

Above: Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712 – 1778)

  • At the age of 12, Friedrich Nietzsche, attempting to prove to his classmates at Schulpforta that the story could be true, burnt his outstretched palm over a book of burning matches without expression of pain and was only saved from serious harm by the school’s prefect.

Above: Friedrich Nietzsche (1844 – 1900)

  • Gordon Scott portrayed Mucius in the sword-and-sandal film Hero of Rome (1964), which was loosely based on this story.

  • Since 1991, the Spanish cultural association Fuerzas de Choque Extraordinarii from the Carthaginians and Romans festivities of Cartagena has Gaius Mucius Scaevola as their commander.

Above: Panorama of Cartagena, Spain

Another feature of the Music Room is the Savonnerie rugs, knotted carpets by the German Savonnerie factory in Bonn.

With their Chinese-inspired motifs, they show the enthusiasm for the exotic in 18th-century European art.

Above: Savonnerie rug, Bruchsal Palace

After passing through both antechambers, visitors arrived in the “large royal audience chamber“, the most elegant hall in the state apartment.

The representational function of the room is clear in the replica of the throne ensemble with an original relief coat of arms and audience chair.

The impressive tapestry series “Famous Men According to Plutarch” fits the theme of royal virtues.

The Palace Church, placed between the throne room and the royal bedchamber, takes on the function of a cabinet.

Above: Church Tower, Bruchsal Palace

The narrow room was used for the Prince-Bishop’s private prayers.

Of the original décor, the overdoors with scenes from the life of Christ have been preserved.

Several portraits, a prayer stool, and a set of an altar cross and silver candlesticks complete the room.

Above: Interior of the former Church, Bruchsal Palace

The former palace church of Bruchsal Palace was the pro-cathedral of the Bishopric of Speyer, which is to say the second episcopal church after the Speyer Cathedral.

Above: Speyer Cathedral, Germany

It was once painted by the famous artist, Cosmas Damian Asam.

Above: Cosmas Damian Asam (1686 – 1739) stucco in front of ceiling fresco inside Weltenburg Abbey, Kelhelm, Germany

Today, its interior is modern in design.

Above: Interior of the modern Church, Bruchsal Palace

From the outside, it can’t be recognized as a church:

St. Damian lies in the Palace’s southern wing, next to the main courtyard.

Its tower, designed by Balthasar Neumann in 1740, was moved away from the narrow Palace area for reasons of symmetry.

Above: Balthasar Neumann (1687 – 1753)

Only a long passage connects it to the Church.

It once had many functions: Pro-cathedral of the bishopric, palace church, and parish church.

Young priests-to-be were educated in the neighboring priests’ seminary.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

A bright ceiling painting, dark marble and stucco marble, life-sized sculptures:

This was the ceremonial presentation of the Palace Church in the time of the Prince-Bishops.

Its décor was particularly important to Prince-Bishop Damian Hugo von Schönborn (1676 – 1743).

Above: Damian Hugo von Schönborn depicted as a builder of Bruchsal Palace

He invested a great deal of money in the frescoes and engaged the famous painter, Cosmas Damian Asam.

The interactions between the painter and Schönborn were sometimes difficult, but the results of his work were impressive.

In bright pastel tones, he painted scenes from the history of St. Cosmas and St. Damian.

Above: St. Cosmas and St. Damian (3rd century CE)

In 1726, an Italian began to paint the palace church in Bruchsal:

Antonio Gresta.

Yet only a year later, he unexpectedly died.

Above: Antonio Gresta (1671 – 1727) fresco in the Music Room of Palazzo Pizzini in Ala, Trentino, Italy

Court intrigues annoyed him to death, or so the story goes.

Schönborn was satisfied with Gresta’s work, but now a new painter was needed:

Above: Damian Hugo family coat of arms, Bruchsal Palace

Enter Cosmas Damian Asam (1686–1739).

He was famous, in demand, and expensive.

From 1728 to 1729, he painted the Church of St. Damian and was paid 5,000 guilders for his work.

Above: Bruchsal Palace Church before 1945

The first dispute happened soon after work began.

In October 1728, Asam requested permission to travel home during the winter, though he had only been working in Bruchsal for seven weeks.

Above: Aerial view of Bruchsal

He could not have accomplished much so quickly, the Bishop thought, and found his behavior: 

Nothing more than pure chicanery“. 

But when he climbed the scaffolding, he saw the truth was quite the contrary:

Asam had already made substantial progress.

However, the painter had changed the design on his own authority!

Above: Cosmas Damian Asam

Asam had sent the suggested changes to Schönborn and had not received a reply.

He took this as agreement and continued working to avoid losing time.

Above: Damian Hugo von Schönborn

Schönborn felt that “the wool had pulled over his eyes and wrote: 

“This good man is curious.

He thinks that he alone is permitted to explain the contract.

I would say nothing to this high-handedness, and he would have nothing to do with any such peasant.

No one may play with us thus.

If he wishes to treat us so brusquely, such shall he receive in turn.”

Above: Church, Bruchsal Palace, 1930

Asam added to the planned scenes with the holy doctor Damian by including his brother, Cosmas, because both are part of the legend.

He also improved the distribution of the ceiling painting and imitated stucco decoration as a frame zone instead of painted architecture.

Above: The original ceiling painting of the Palace Church

The consequence:

The old paintings by Gresta no longer fit with it and had to be removed.

Above: Fra Angelico’s The martyrdom of Cosmas and Damian, Musée du Louvre, Paris, France

However, it all ended happily:

After completion, Schönborn had a deer shot for the painter as thanks.

Out of the 1945 wreckage of the Church, nine small bronze statuettes of the apostles were salvaged.

Today, they can once again be seen in the Church, one of the few elements of the old Church that have been preserved.

The figures are part of a group of Christ, Mary, and the Twelve Apostles, made in Augsburg in 1593.

Originally, they decorated the tabernacle of the high altar.

Above: Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper, 1498, Santa Maria del Grazie, Milan, Italy

The church wing was rebuilt between 1960 and 1966.

Architect Loth Götz designed the interior to be bright, modern, and intentionally modest.

The décor was the work of renowned artists of the time.

The sanctuary, now in the centre of the Church, and the bronze crucifix were designed by the Viennese sculptor, Fritz Wotruba.

HAP Grieshaber, then a professor at the Art Academy in Karlsruhe, created the Stations of the Cross:

He designed pressure plates for woodcarvings in white and gold and made them into splendid works of art.

Above: Church, Bruchsal Palace

On the south side of the main courtyard, the Winter Dining Room, the Gallery Room, and the Blue Room make up the Prince-Bishop’s private apartment.

The less representational private rooms on the southern side of the main courtyard made retreat from the public eye possible.

For the last Prince-Bishop of Speyer, Phillip Franz Wilderich von Walderdorff, the modest apartment was also his retirement residence from his abdication in 1802 until his death.

Whether a room was open to the public or reserved for the Prince-Bishop can also be determined based on the painting above the door.

Overdoors with mythological and biblical scenes hang in the representational apartments.

In the private rooms, still lifes, genre, or landscape pictures can be found.

In the Winter Dining Room, two still lifes of fruit by the court painter Lothar Schweickart have been preserved.

The ripe fruit can be understood as a symbol of transience, while the animals are a depiction of virtues and sins.

When some paintings from the collection were moved from the chamber wing to the central building in the 19th century, the Gallery Room received its name.

The collection consists of several hundred pictures by well-known European painters.

Some were the works of great masters and secured the Prince-Bishop’s reputation as a connoisseur of art.

The paintings displayed today have been preserved in the Palace.

The furniture — a writing desk with a walnut veneer and two gaming tables with chairs — are from the original collection.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

In 1810, the Blue Room was decorated with blue silk and likely served Queen Frederica of Sweden as a drawing room.

Above: Tapestry from the Blue Room, Bruchsal Palace

Today, the walls display two tapestries from the “The Transformations of Jupiter” series.

The five parts of the cycle depicts scenes from the Metamorphoses of Ovid, in which Jupiter takes on different forms to pursue young women.

Above: Latin poet Publius Ovidius Naso (aka Ovid) (43 BCE – 18 CE)

Here, “Leda With the Swan” and “Europa on the Bull” are depicted.

Above: Michelangelo, Ledo and the Swan, National Gallery, London

Above: Fresco, Europa and the Bull, Pompeii, Italy

Later, one of Amalie’s daughters moved in with her family.

When Margravine Amalie von Baden made Bruchsal Palace her dower house in 1806, a new style moved in with her.

Amalie took over the northern state apartment and the bordering private rooms from the last Prince-Bishop of Speyer.

Instead of the tapestries, which had become outdated, the margravine had the walls covered with silk and furnished the rooms with furniture in the Empire style.

The rooms of the northern state apartment and the neighboring private rooms were furnished for Margravine Amalie von Baden beginning in 1806.

She had the walls covered with modern silks and supplemented the existing furnishings with furniture in the Empire style from her own collection.

Above: Amalie von Baden’s apartment, Bruchsal Palace

The narrow room, which is entered through the Amalie’s Apartment, was used as an antechamber to the private rooms even in the time of the Prince-Bishops.

One inventory listed a bell pull in the service room, which indicates private use by the Margravine.

Today, four tapestries are displayed here, manufactured in the Royal d‘Aubusson factory by Reynaud and Pierre Couloudon.

They depict exotic landscapes with corresponding architecture and animals, surrounded by trees and plants.

Above: French tapestry, Antechamber, Bruchsal Palace

The antechamber connects to the audience chamber, which the Margravine called the “Red Drawing Room“.

She had the old-fashioned tapestries removed and had the walls covered with a “wallpaper of red satin“.

Today, a sofa in the Empire style, an encoignure — a corner cabinet following the French model — and a mahogany side table recall the décor from the time of Amalie.

The walls are hung with original paintings from the old Bruchsal collection, including Dutch works and cityscapes in the style of Canaletto.

Above: The Red Room, Bruchsal Palace

The “living room“, as it was called in the time of the Prince-Bishops, and later the “Yellow Room“, was a place for private conversations and reading.

The inventory from 1804 lists two large writing desks with many interior compartments and a round basket woven out of willows for outgoing letters.

Amalie also conducted business and held small gatherings here.

Now the palace’s oldest tapestry series decorates the room:

Magnificent tapestries, created in Brussels between 1550 and 1575, show the Old Testament story of David and Abigail.

Above: Living room, Bruchsal Palace

Amalie had the Prince-Bishops’ former stateroom decorated with modern furniture.

The furniture displayed today was created circa 1815.

The bed, vanity, and standing mirror have decorative elements that are typical for the Empire period, such as gilded lion’s paws, simulated Egyptian writing, shells, rosettes, and lotus blossoms.

Above: Amalie von Baden Apartment, Bruchsal Palace

She went down in the history of Baden as an enemy of Emperor Napoleon and the “mother-in-law of Europe“:

Amalie von Baden.

Above: Amalie von Hessen-Darmstadt (1754 – 1832)

The famous crown princess began living in Bruchsal Palace in 1806.

When there were no important guests, daily life was rather monotonous and lacking in luxury.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

Amalie (1754 – 1832) was the widow of the Crown Prince of Baden, Karl Ludwig.

Above: Karl Ludwig of Baden (1755 – 1801)

After the marriage of her son Karl to Napoleon’s adoptive daughter Stéphanie de Beauharnais, she lost her rank as the first lady of the court of Baden in 1806 and retreated to Bruchsal.

Above: Karl Ludwig Friedrich von Baden (1786 – 1818)

Above: Stéphanie de Beauharnais (1789 – 1860)

The Palace served as Amalie’s dower house until her death.

Famous as the “mother-in-law of Europe“, five of her daughters married important royalty, including the kings of Bavaria and Sweden and the Czar of Russia.

Above: Queen Karoline of Bavaria (1776 – 1841)

Above: Empress Elisabeth Alexeievna of Russia

Above: Queen Frederica of Sweden (1781-1826), wife of Gustav IV Adolf

Above: Duchess Maria of Brunswick – Wolfenbüttel (1782 – 1808)

Above: Grand Duchess Wilhelmine of Hesse and by Rhine (1788 – 1836)

Amalie’s Fountain, constructed in front of the solicitors’ building in 1912, is in remembrance of her.

Above: Amalie’s Fountain, Bruchsal Palace

From 1801 to 1832, Karoline von Freystedt, one of Amalie’s ladies-in-waiting, kept a diary.

In it, she described the people the crown princess met with.

Although stories of noisy celebrations in Bruchsal are still passed down today, they appear to have been rare exceptions.

Daily life at court, according to Freystedt, was uneventful.

The court was not very large and was only interesting when important guests came to Bruchsal.

Above: Aerial view of modern Bruchsal, Germany

As Karoline von Freystedt emphasized again and again, life at the court in Bruchsal was monotonous.

In 1829, for example, she wrote:

The long winter passed in silent sameness, the daily monotony interrupted only by the death of some acquaintances.” 

Even trips to the “reserve” as Steinberg Hill with its water palace and belvedere was called, was “hated by the royal household for its deep boredom, only the Margravine felt that it interrupted the monotony of daily life.”

Above: Steinsberg Castle

She also wrote about the visit of the Prussian King Friedrich Wilhelm III: 

Except for conversation with the Margravine, Bruchsal could offer him no amusement other than walks in the garden while Turkish music was played.” 

Above: King Friedrich Wilhelm III of Prussia (1770 – 1840)

Nor did the lady-in-waiting find Bruchsal to be particularly luxurious.

The indisposition of Amalie’s daughter, Tsarina Elisabeth, according to her information, was made worse by the simple lifestyle“.

Above: Empress Elisabeth Alexeievna of Russia

Any Baroque palace needs its formal, geometrically designed garden following French archetypes.

In Bruchsal, the palace garden was created in several stages.

Some elements of the geometric garden can still be identified, but others were remade into idyllic parcels in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

The large Baroque path axis, surrounded by chestnut trees, structured the garden in the past as it does now.

The complex was once twice as large as it is now, but the lower part was separated by the railroad line in the 19th century.

On the other side of the tracks, it is now forested, but the continuation of the garden axis can still be recognized.

Originally, the street extended as far as the town of Graben and was part of an extensive system of avenues created under Prince-Bishop Schönborn that stretched throughout his lands on the right side of the Rhine.

Above: Aerial view of Bruchsal Palace

Fountains in water basins splash and burble near the Palace.

In the Baroque period, many citrus trees and other potted trees stood in the side areas.

They were overwintered in the two long orangeries.

With their ornate sculptural and architectural painting in tones of yellow and green, the former orangery buildings still contribute to the special flair of the complex today.

Prince-Bishop Hutten had them converted in the 1740s so that court staff could be housed here.

In the Baroque period, ornate beds lay left and right of the central axis, decorated with elaborated ornamentation made of crushed stones, shells, and short plants.

In the 19th century, winding paths were created here, surrounded by many trees.

Between them, Baroque water basins have been preserved.

Another large basin was converted into a duck pond in 1908 and supplemented with rocks.

The two circular flower beds that now end the complex at the side have a modern design.

The transition to the lower area of the garden is marked by a row of small water basins.

Four “watchmen” stand here: the sculptures of the halberdiers with their long weapons.

Joachim Günther and his workshop created them in the late 1750s.

The sculptures along the avenue are also Günther’s work.

They embody the four seasons and the four elements, a typical selection of sculptures for an 18th-century garden.

The original four elements stand in the Garden Hall.

Above: Garden Hall, Bruchsal Palace

Bruchsal Palace seems like a fine place to spend one’s exile.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

They were offered to settle at Meersburg Castle on Lake Constance.

Above: Meersburg Castle, Germany

The former King and Queen had settled in the Duchy of Baden, where they arrived on 10 February 1810.

After having become private persons, the incompatibility between Frederica and Gustav Adolf immediately became known in their different views in how to live their lives.

Gustav Adolf wished to live a simple family life in a congregation of the Moravian Church, while Frederica wished to settle in Meersburg.

Their sexual differences were also brought to the surface, as Frederica refused sexual intercourse because she did not wish to give birth to exiled royalty.

These differences caused Gustav Adolf to leave suddenly, without warning, alone for Basel in Switzerland in April 1810, from which he expressed complaints about their sexual incompatibility and demanded a divorce.

Frederica settled with the children at Karlsruhe, while Gustav Adolf settled in Basel.

Under the name “Graf von Gottorp” he guested “as one of the strangest guests” in a room in the Hotel Drei Könige, which he described as a “cabin“. 

He also condescendingly insulted the Birsig, above which the “cabin” was located, as a sewer. 

Above: The Drei Könige / Trois Rois Hotel, Basel, Switzerland

The couple made two attempts to reconcile in person:

Once in Switzerland in July, and a second time in Altenburg in Thüringen in September.

The attempts of reconciliation was unsuccessful.

Gustav Adolf issued divorce negotiations with her mother, stating that he wished to be able to marry again.

In 1811, divorce negotiations began. 

It was Gustav Adolf who filed for divorce, while Frederica opposed it. 

Gustav Adolf stated as a reason that he wanted to have many children but not royal ones, that he wanted to live a simple religious life with a religious wife, and that he preferred to marry below his rank in order to do so. 

Frederica was not willing to divorce.

Her mother suggested that Gustav Adolf entered some kind of secret morganatic marriage (an open marriage) on the side to avoid the scandal of divorce.

Gustav Adolf did agree to this suggestion, but as they could not figure out how such a thing should be arranged, a proper divorce was finally issued in February 1812.

In the divorce settlement, Gustav Adolf renounced all his assets in both Sweden and abroad, as well as his future assets in the form of his inheritance rights after his mother, to his children.

He also renounced the custody and guardianship of his children.

Above: Commemorative medal from the coronation of Gustav IV Adolf and Frederica on 3 April 1800

Two years later, Frederica placed her children under the guardianship of her brother-in-law, the Russian Tsar Alexander.

Above: Emperor Alexander I of Russia (1777 – 1825)

Frederica kept in contact through correspondence with Queen Charlotte of Sweden, whom she entrusted her economic interests in Sweden, as well as with her former mother-in-law.

Above: Queen Charlotte of Sweden and Norway (1759 – 1818)

Above: Frederica’s mother-in-law, Sophia Magdalena of Denmark and Sweden (1746 – 1813)

While she did not contact Gustav Adolf directly, she kept informed about his life and often contributed financially to his economy without his knowledge.

Above: Frederica and Gustav Adolf in happier times

Frederica settled in Bruchsal Castle, but also acquired several other residences in Baden as well as a country villa, Villamont, outside Lausanne in Switzerland.

Above: Old Lausanne, Switzerland

In practice, she spent most of her time in the court of Karlsruhe from 1814 onwards, and also travelled a lot around Germany, Switzerland and Italy, using the name Countess Itterburg after a ruin in Hesse, which she had acquired.

Above: Itterburg, Hesse, 1605

In accordance with the abdication terms, she kept her title of Queen and had her own court, and kept in close contact with her many relatives and family in Germany. 

According to her ladies-in-waiting, she turned down proposals from her former brother-in-law Friedrich Wilhelm of Braunschweig and Friedrich Wilhelm III of Prussia.

Above: Duke Friedrich Wilhelm of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel (1771 – 1815)

Above: King Friedrich Wilhelm III of Prussia (1770 – 1840)

She was rumoured to have secretly married her son’s tutor, the French – Swiss J.N.G. de Polier-Vernland, possibly in 1823.

I think this is simply a rumour.

In 1819, her daughter Sophia married the heir to the throne of Baden, Frederica’s paternal half-uncle, the future Grand Duke Leopold I of Baden.

Above: Grand Duchess Sophie of Baden (1801 – 1865)

Above: Grand Duke Leopold I of Baden (1790 – 1852)

Frederica’s last years were plagued by weakened health.

Above: Queen Frederica, 1824

She died in Lausanne of a heart disease.

She is buried in the Schloss and Stiftskirche in Pforzheim, Germany.

Above: Schloss und Stiftstungskirche (Castle and Collegiate Church) St. Michael, Pforzheim, Germany

As a divorced Swedish ex-King, Gustav then led a wandering life on the Continent as “the Count of Gottorp“, and later, Colonel Gustafsson

He had several mistresses and with three of them he had children. 

He got triplets with one woman. 

The only child he recognized as legitimate was his son Adolf Gustavsson (1820–1907) who he had with his mistress Maria Schlegel. 

Gustav Adolf maintained an exchange of letters with his mother until her death in 1813.

Above: Gustav’s mother, Queen Sofia Magdalena of Denmark (1746 – 1813)

In 1812 he wanted to marry a maid named Iselin, but failed when all the priests he asked for various reasons refused to marry the couple. 

Iselin is said to have infected him with a venereal disease, robbed him and abandoned him when he decided to make a pilgrimage to Jerusalem with her. 

Above: Images of Jerusalem, Israel

It was not until 1818 that his unsteady life brought him back to Basel, where, after another incident in the Drei Könige, he bought a house at 72 St. Johanns-Vorstadt for 12,000 francs. 

A commemorative plaque still adorns the building today. 

In the end he lived in this house under the name “Colonel Gustafsson“.

Above: Where the Swedish King once lived, Basel, Switzerland

In the same year he also acquired Basel citizenship for 1,500 francs after renouncing all privileges of birth and status in front of the assembled council. 

However, according to contemporary sources, he never found civil peace. 

He felt misunderstood all his life, was annoyed by the screaming of children bathing in the Rhine and applied in vain for the post of arsenal manager. 

In 1822 he finally sent the Basel citizen’s letter back to the town hall, offended.

Above: Basel Rathaus (City Hall)

Almost 200 years after the Swedish king, the Ayurvedic restaurant “Sri Veda” is located at St. Johanns-Vorstadt 72.

Above: Logo of the Sri Veda, Basel

Above: Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden (aka Colonel Gustafsson), 1830

In October 1833 he went to Weisses Rössli (“The White Horse“), an inn in St. Gallen. 

When entering the small rooms at the White Horse Inn in St Gallen, Colonel Gustafsson said:

“Everything here reminds me of my cabinet in Stockholm, even the wallpaper.

I want to live in this room.

And so he did.

He decided to spend the rest of his life in quiet resignation with Rössli landlord Samuel Naf in St. Gallen.

The restless finally came to rest here.

He wanted to spend the rest of his life in peaceful seclusion.

Above: Gustav IV Adolf’s room at the inn Zum Weissen Rössli, St. Gallen, in which he died in 1837

In fairness, St. Gallen, the main urban centre of eastern Switzerland, is a relaxed provincial city set amid rolling countryside with a beautiful Old Town.

St. Gallen is big enough to bristle with life, but small enough to navigate on foot.

And navigate St. Gallen on foot I often did.

I tried not to be one of those who simply follow the accustomed path from train station to workplace and return without deviation nor exploration.

Above: St. Gallen, Switzerland

While the professional world considered him quite crazy, Gustav took refuge in playing the piano and reading books for hours on end.

He read countless newspapers and journals, preferably military science, which he liked to talk about.

He also wrote himself, for example in 1835, his justifying memoirs about his dethronement, which he published in St. Gallen, entitled March 13 or the Most Important Facts of the Revolution of 1809 under his pseudonym Colonel Gustaffson.

He also wrote a treatise on ebb and flow, an Essay on State Economy, and the Dialogue du Croyant et Clairvoyant – words of consolation to political refugees to whom he felt connected as an exile.

In the evenings, the increasingly quirky Gustaffson went for long walks.

He refrained from driving and riding because he had to live so frugally.

He didn’t know that his daughter Sophie slipped money to Naf so that her father only had to pay for half his pension costs.

The family he despised also ensured that he got fresh clothes from time to time.

He corresponded with several princes and statesmen in Europe.

Answers he disliked or unanswered complaints etched deep into his irritable mind.

His sensitivity always caught up with him.

When he was really or supposedly hurt, he cried for hours, got drunk and locked himself in his room for months.

Above: Former site of the White Horse, St. Gallen

The Swedish journalist Nils Arfwidsson (1802 – 1880) travelled through Europe in the 1830’s and came to St Gallen in Switzerland.

I had by chance lodged at an inn, by no means of the first order, called the White Horse.

I was about to pass the door to the common room, where I had forgotten something immaterial.

Already at the stairs the tune from an old, hoarse fortepiano reached my ears.

A pair of hands moved across it in slow accords in minor.

It was nothing ingenious or virtuosic in these fantasies, I admit, but the deep melancholy they conveyed caught my attention.

I opened the door.

The music stopped immediately.

No one in the room but the person by the piano who, when I entered, rose with an awkward and shy expression.

His entire posture, his facial shape reminded me of someone.

I felt as if I, back in Sweden, had seen, if not an individual then at least a portrait, an image that resembled this figure.

Arfwidsson was not mistaken.

He had, in fact, encountered the former Swedish King Gustav IV Adolf.

Nils Arfwidsson never said that he was Swedish or that he had recognized the former King.

They spoke German together, Arfwidsson pretending to be a Baltic businessman.

When leaving the Inn after some days Arfwidsson entered Colonel Gustafsson’s rooms.

The King “complained that he had been ill in the night, excused himself and heartily pressed my hand.

I raised his hands to my lips.

He stared, surprised, at me.

On my lips hovered a word, a Swedish word, only one, but I repressed it.

What would it have gained?

A deeper bow than he nowadays was used to became my farewell and the only thing that revealed myself.

Did he guess or suspect anything?

I will most likely never know.

Above: Nils Arfvidsson (1802 – 1880)

When the ex-King became sick, with swollen feet and a tight chest, he resisted doctors and medicines, because he distrusted them.

In his simple room in the White Horse, he died from a stroke on 7 February 1837, alone, alcoholic and destitute.

Only a few things were left to inherit by his estranged family.

A wooden box contained an odd assortment of mementoes and practical objects.

Smoking paraphernalia, for example.

And a coin purse with some small change.

The purse and some of the other items in the box are stained with ink.

It is unclear if this happened in Colonel Gustafsson’s lifetime.

More intriguing is perhaps the roll of ribbon for the Swedish Order of the Sword.

Ex-King Gustaf could only have had sentimental reasons to keep the length of ribbon.

The same goes for a set of buttons for a freemason’s uniform.

The oddities left in the box give us a rare insight into a quiet man’s life, a man reminiscing about his past.

A man born in a palace, living his last years in an inn “by no means of the first order”.

Above: What Gustav left behind – a fire-striker, a few pieces of tinder to light a fire, a roll of ribbon for the Order of the Sword, a set of buttons for a freemason’s uniform, a reading pipe, a pipe cleaner, goat suede gloves, a knife, a pen and pencil set, a red Morocco leather purse, and some toothpicks

There is no monument to remind us of him.

No street is named after him.

No city tour deals with him.

He is only mentioned by two measly building plaques.

One is located on the busy arterial road to Basel’s St. Johann suburb.

The other is practically invisible above a shop window in St. Gallen’s Old Town.

This King hardly left any traces of himself in Switzerland.

He was a queer oddball.

His presence was not a great moment in history.

He filled those he met not with pride but with shame or awkward silence.

He didn’t want to be remembered.

Above: Coat of arms of King Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden

He was buried in Moravia.

At the suggestion of King Oscar II of Sweden his body was finally brought to Sweden and interred in Riddarholm Church.

Above: Riddarholm Church, Stockholm

A Swedish connection for me was my Starbucks colleague M.

Above: The lovely and mysterious Ms. M

My memory is unclear since we parted company why she left Stockholm and first came to St. Gallen – boyfriend? studies? both? – nor why she left.

What is interesting to me when I read her Facebook profile is how she does not mention her time there.

Was her time in St. Gallen like Gustav Adolf’s?

A dead end destination?

Did she envision a potential life of solitude, alcoholism and destitution had she remained?

Above: Old houses of St. Gallen

From what I read these days she seems happy working in Stockholm.

What more can we ask for than this?

Above: Stockholm

I am often asked:

Why are you in Turkey and not in Switzerland?

I am often asked:

Why have you chosen to live alone and not remain with your wife back in Landschlacht?

I am often asked:

How do you feel so far removed from the life you once led?

How can you possibly be happy?

I’ve been long, a long way from here
Put on a poncho, played for mosquitoes
And drank ’til I was thirsty again
We went searching through thrift store jungles
Found Geronimo’s rifle, Marilyn’s shampoo
And Benny Goodman’s corset and pen

Well okay, I made this up
I promised you I’d never give up

If it makes you happy
It can’t be that bad
If it makes you happy
Then why the hell are you so sad?

We get down, a real low down
You listen to Coltrane, derail your own train
Well, who hasn’t been there before?
I come proud, around the hard way
Bring you comics in bed, scrape the mold off the bread
And serve you French toast again

Well okay, I still get stoned
I’m not the kind you should take home

If it makes you happy
It can’t be that bad
If it makes you happy
Then why the hell are you so sad?

If it makes you happy
It can’t be that bad
If it makes you happy
Then why the hell are you so sad?

We’ve been far
Far away from here
Put on a poncho, played for mosquitoes
And everywhere in between

Well okay, we get along
So what if right now everything’s wrong?

If it makes you happy
It can’t be that bad
If it makes you happy
Then why the hell are you so sad?

If it makes you happy
It can’t be that bad
If it makes you happy
Then why the hell are you so sad?

Above: Sheryl Crow, from her If It Makes You Happy video

I think of Gustav IV Adolf and I ponder the thought that maybe he was happy in St. Gallen after all.

That maybe our expectations that he should have been unhappy have caused us to assess him as a man lost in a sea of loss and loneliness.

Or maybe, just maybe, he learned to embrace disaster and realized that:

An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered.”

G.K. Chesterton, “On Running After One’s Hat

Above: Gilbert Keith Chesterton (1874 – 1936)

I am not Gustav IV Adolf in character nor in background.

My wife and I are still married.

We were not blessed with children.

She is a medical professional.

I am an ESL teacher.

She remains in Switzerland, strong and independent.

I am in Turkey, learning how to be strong and independent.

I am not driven by baser instincts as Gustav was, though his simple life in solitude is what I have adopted.

My apartment is a fine lodging, but it is no grander than the lodgings the White Horse offered the ex-King.

Above: Flag of Turkey

Do I miss my wife, my old life, at times?

Certainly.

I am not made of stone.

But I cannot be in a country where doing my job with any consistency is difficult.

That is why I left.

This is why I am not eager to return.

I am not seeking to divorce my wife, but I do understand that asking her to wait indefinitely for me is unrealistic.

I ask nothing of her.

What little I have is hers for the asking.

But some days are longer than others.

And some nights last an eternity.

I stay the course here though there are those who feel I should have stayed the course there.

Sting sings on the jukebox of my mind and I find myself wondering whether it is really so terrible a fate, so damned a destiny to be the “King of Pain“.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook