aka Canada Slim and the two Georges

Eskişehir, Turkey, Sunday 5 June 2022

I don’t know if companies still do this, but, once a time, some corporations took cultural awareness so seriously that they put employees into a crash course of overseas cultural immersion.

AT & T, for instance, encouraged and paid for the whole family of an executive on the way to a foreign assignment to enroll in classes given by experts in the mores and manners of other lands.

Among the areas that cry out loudest for international understanding are how to say people’s names.

At the US State Department, foreign names are almost as crucial as foreign policy.

Roger Axtel, the author of Do’s and Taboos Around the World, tells a story of a social secretary to a former Secretary of State who recalled that even in the relatively unselfconscious 1950s, she put herself through a rigorous rehearsal of names before every affair of state.

Of all the challenges, she said, the ambassador from what was then Ceylon (today’s Sri Lanka) was the toughest.

After days of practising “Ambassador Notowidigeo“, she was informed that a new man had the job – and was on his way to be received.

You would be surprised how fast you can memorize Sastroamidjojo when you have to.

Above: Flag of Sri Lanka

The first transaction between even ordinary citizens – and the first chance to make an impression for better or worse – is an exchange of names.

In Canada there usually is not very much to get wrong.

And even if you do, is it really so horrific?

Above: Flag of Canada

Not so elsewhere.

Especially in the Eastern Hemisphere, where name frequently denotes social rank or family status, a mistake frequently denotes social rank or family status.

A mistake can be taken as an outright insult.

So can switching to a given name without the other person’s permission, even when you think the situation calls for it.

What would you like me to call you?” is always the opening line of one overseas deputy director for an international telecommunications corporation.

Better to ask several times than to get it wrong.

Even then, I err on the side of formality until asked to ‘Call me Joe’.

Another frequent traveller insists his company provide him with a list of key people he will meet, country by country, surnames underlined, to be memorized on the flight over.

Take Latin America.

Most people’s names are a combination of the father’s and mother’s, with only the father’s name used in conversation.

In the Spanish-speaking countries the father’s name comes first.

Hence, Carlos Mendoza-Miller is called Mr. Mendoza.

Above: Latin America (in green)

But in Portuguese-speaking Brazil it is the other way around, with the mother’s name first, as in Carlos Miller-Mendoza or Mr. Miller.

Above: Flag of Brazil

In the Orient, the Chinese system of surname first, given name last does not always apply.

Above: Modern Asia (1796)

The Taiwanese, many of whom were educated in missionary schools, often have a Christian first name, which comes before any of the others – as in Tommy Ho Chin, who should be called Mr. Ho or, to his friends, Tommy Ho.

Also, given names are often officially changed to initials, so a Y.Y. Lang is Y.Y.

Never mind what it stands for.

Above: Flag of Taiwan

In Korea, which of a man’s names takes a Mr. is determined by whether he is his father’s first or second son.

Above: Flag of South Korea

Although in Thailand names run backwards, Chinese style, the Mr. is put with the given name.

To a Thai it is just as important to be called by his given name as it is for a Japanese to be addressed by his surname.

Above: Flag of Thailand

With the Japanese you can, in a very friendly relationship, respond to his using your first name by dropping the Mr. and adding san to his last name, as in Ishikawa-san.

Above: Flag of Japan

In most of the European Union, first names are never used without invitation and that usually comes only after long association.

Those with academic titles and degrees expect you to use them as a sign of respect.

Above: Flag of the European Union

In the Czech Republic, when greeting a person with a professional title, such as doctor or professor, always use the titles before the surname.

Above: Flag of the Czech Republic

In the UK, most honorary titles are used, even among familiar acquaintances, but it is wise to first hear how others address a person.

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

In Germany, respect titles (Doktor) and never jump to a first name basis until invited.

Above: Germany

In Iceland, Icelanders use first names among themselves, but they expect foreigners to use their last name and will use last names when speaking to foreigners.

In many cases they will soon go over to using first names.

The naming system in Iceland is the old Scandinavian system which all the countries once used.

It is a paternal system where the father gives his children his first name as their last name adding -son if the child is a boy and -dóttir if the child is a girl. 

Above: Flag of Iceland

In Israel, titles are even less important than in the US, but, as always, best to err on the side of formality until informality is encouraged.

Above: Flag of Israel

In Italy, all university graduates have a title and they usually expect you to use it.

Above: Flag of Italy

In Poland, first names are used by close friends only.

Above: Flag of Poland

In Romania, first name greetings are appropriate only between close friends.

In more formal settings use a person’s title and surname.

Above: Flag of Romania

In Algeria, visitors are always addressed by their title and last names.

Professional titles are widely used.

Above: Flag of Algeria

Visitors to Iran should address their hosts by their last name or by their academic rank or title.

Above: Flag of Iran

Use the last name and title when addressing a Pakistani.

Above: Flag of Pakistan

Confused yet?

The safest course is to simply ask.

Above: Led Zeppelin song “Dazed and Confused” EP

King Henry VIII of England (1491 – 1547) ordered that marital births be recorded under the surname of the father.

In England and cultures derived from there, there has long been a tradition for a woman to change her surname upon marriage from her birth name to her husband’s family name.

In the Middle Ages, when a man from a lower-status family married an only daughter from a higher-status family, he would often adopt the wife’s family name.

In the 18th and 19th centuries in Britain, bequests were sometimes made contingent upon a man’s changing (or hyphenating) his family name, so that the name of the testator (name on the last will and testament) continued.

Above: King Henry VIII of England

The United States followed the naming customs and practices of English common law and traditions until recent times.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

Women who keep their own surname after marriage may do so for a number of reasons:

  • They see no reason to change their name, much like men often see no reason to change theirs.
  • Objection to the one-sidedness of this tradition.
  • Being the last member of their family with that surname.
  • To avoid the hassle of paperwork related to their change of name.
  • Wishing to retain their identity.
  • Preferring their last name to their spouse’s last name.
  • To avoid professional ramifications.

Above: Portrait of Charlotte du Val d’Ognes by Marie-Denise Villers (1801), depicts a feminine spirit.

Personally at the time when I married I saw no reason against either keeping my family surname or adopting my wife’s.

Hers is a German surname and perhaps a German surname might have made my adjustment to life in Germany easier.

The opposite side of this question was whether or not a German surname was truly fitting a native speaker of English.

Above: “A complete word“ – “The Awful German Language” in Mark Twain’s A Tramp Abroad

As for my wife she felt the medical profession in Germany (and later Switzerland) tended to be of a conservative nature so she decided to adopt mine.

I am certainly convinced that she can bring as much, or possibly more, honour to the name as I could!

Above: The clan tartan

But, yes, name changes are a hassle of documentation (and cost).

I found this out for myself when I discovered that my biological parents had never bothered to arrange a birth certificate for me when I was born.

Mere physicality of a corporeal form is not sufficient to prove identity these days while paperwork can conjure identity into existence.

When did a document matter more than the person bearing the document?

The first known instance in the United States of a woman insisting on the use of her birth name was that of Lucy Stone in 1855.

Above: Lucy Stone (1818 – 1893)

And since then there has been a general increase in the rate of women using their birth name.

Beginning in the latter half of the 20th century, traditional naming practices writes one commentator, were recognized as “coming into conflict with current sensitivities about children’s and women’s rights“.

Those changes accelerated a shift away from the interests of the parents to a focus on the best interests of the child.

The law in this area continues to evolve today mainly in the context of paternity and custody actions.

Naming conventions in the US have gone through periods of flux, however, and the 1990s saw a decline in the percentage of name retention among women.

As of 2006, more than 80% of American women adopted the husband’s family name after marriage.

It is rare but not unknown for an English-speaking man to take his wife’s family name, whether for personal reasons or as a matter of tradition (such as among matrilineal Canadian aboriginal groups, such as the Haida and Gitxsan).

Above: Flag of the Haida Nation

Above: Flag of the Gitxsan Nation

Upon marriage to a woman, men in the United States can change their surnames to that of their wives, or adopt a combination of both names with the federal government, through the Social Security Administration.

Men may face difficulty doing so on the state level in some states.

It is exceedingly rare but it does occur in the United States, where a married couple may choose an entirely new last name by going through a legal change of name.

As an alternative, both spouses may adopt a double-barrelled name.

For instance, when John Smith and Mary Jones marry each other, they may become known as “John Smith-Jones” and “Mary Smith-Jones“.

A spouse may also opt to use their birth name as a middle name, and e.g. become known as “Mary Jones Smith“.

An additional option, although rarely practiced, is the adoption of the last name derived from a blend of the prior names, such as “Simones“, which also requires a legal name change.

Some couples keep their own last names but give their children hyphenated or combined surnames.

In 1979, the United Nations adopted the Convention on the Elimination of All Forms of Discrimination Against Women (“CEDAW”), which declared in effect that women and men, and specifically wife and husband, shall have the same rights to choose a “family name”, as well as a profession and an occupation.

Above: Flag of the United Nations

In some places, civil rights lawsuits or constitutional amendments changed the law so that men could also easily change their married names (e.g., in British Columbia and California). 

Above: Flag of British Columbia

Above: Flag of California

Québec law permits neither spouse to change surnames, but their children can have hyphenated surnames where one of the parent’s surnames can be dropped once the children have reached adulthood.

Above: Flag of Québec

In France, until 1 January 2005, children were required by law to take the surname of their father.

Article 311-21 of the French Civil Code now permits parents to give their children the family name of either their father, mother, or hyphenation of both – although no more than two names can be hyphenated.

In cases of disagreement, both names are used in alphabetical order.

Above: Flag of France

This brought France into line with a 1978 declaration by the Council of Europe requiring member governments to take measures to adopt equality of rights in the transmission of family names, a measure that was echoed by the United Nations in 1979.

Similar measures were adopted by Germany (1976), Sweden (1982), Denmark (1983), and Spain (1999).

The European Community has been active in eliminating gender discrimination.

Several cases concerning discrimination in family names have reached the courts. 

Burghartz v. Switzerland challenged the lack of an option for husbands to add the wife’s surname to his surname, which they had chosen as the family name when this option was available for women.

Losonci Rose and Rose v. Switzerland challenged a prohibition on foreign men married to Swiss women keeping their surname if this option was provided in their national law, an option available to women. 

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Ünal Tekeli v. Turkey challenged prohibitions on women using their surname as the family name, an option only available to men.

Since 2014, women in Turkey are allowed to keep their birth names alone for their whole life instead of using their husbands’ names. 

Previously, the Turkish Code of Civil Law, Article 187, required a married woman to use her husband’s surname; or else to use her birth name in front of her husband’s name by giving a written application to the marriage officer or the civil registry office.

In 2014, the Constitutional Court ruled that prohibiting married women from retaining only maiden names is a violation of their rights.

The Court found all these laws to be in violation of the Convention.

Above: Flag of Turkey

From 1945 to 2021 in the Czech Republic women by law had to use family names with the ending -ová behind the name of their father or husband (so-called přechýlení).

This was seen as discriminatory by a part of the public.

Since 1 January 2022, Czech women can decide for themselves whether they want to use the feminine or masculine form of their family name. 

Above: Coat of arms of the Czech Republic

Here is where the waters get murky for me.

Wasn’t the point of a woman adopting her husband’s surname to have protection (both physical and financial) by his name and as well to affirm his commitment to the offspring his fertilization produced?

She is under his protection and their offspring is his responsibility?

Doesn’t the use of his name assure him of her commitment to him as well as assure her of his protection and support of her?

Above: The Wedding, Edmund Blair Leighton (1920)

Middlemarch has been published after 150 years under George Eliot‘s real name, Mary Ann Evans, alongside 24 other historic works by women whose writing had only been ever previously been in print under their male pseudonyms.

Evans adopted the pen name of George Eliot in the mid-19th century, in order to ensure her works were taken seriously.

Middlemarch, originally published in eight parts in 1871 – 1872, had never been released under her real name prior to 2020.

Evans said she was “resolute in preserving her incognito, having observed that a nom de plume secures all the advantages without the disagreeables of reputation“, while her partner George Lewes said “the object of anonymity was to get the book judged on its own merits and not prejudged as the work of a woman or of a particular woman“.

Above: Mary Ann Evans (aka George Eliot) (1819 – 1880)

Finally, the work voted the greatest British novel of all time came out in 2020 as Evan’s as part of the Reclaim Her Name campaign from the women’s prize for fiction and prize sponsor Baileys to mark the 25th anniversary of the award.

Some of the books, like Middlemarch, are well-known, including A Phantom Lover, a ghost story from Violet Paget who wrote as Vernon Lee, and Indiana, a romance from Amantine Aurore Dupin, the 19th century author better known as George Sand.

Above: Violet Paget (aka Vernon Lee) (1856 – 1935)

Above: Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin (aka George Sand) (1804 – 1876)

Others are being brought to the forefront after forgotten decades, such as Keynotes, a collection of feminist short stories from 1893 that includes open discussions of women’s sexuality.

The stories were written by Mary Bright, who wrote as George Egerton, in 1893.

She would say of them that:

I realized that in literature, everything had been better done by man than woman could hope to emulate.

There was one small plot for her to tell: the terra incognita of herself, as she knew herself to be, not as man liked to imagine her.

Above: Mary Bright (aka George Egerton) (1859 – 1945)

Frances Rollin Whipper published The Life of Martin R. Delaney in 1868 under the pseudonym Frank A. Rollin.

She was the first African American to publish a biography.

Above: Frances Ann Rollin Whipper (aka Frank A. Rollin) (1845 – 1901)

Ann Petry, who wrote as Arnold Petri, was the first African-American woman to sell more than 1 million copies of a book and joins the list with “Marie of the Cabin Club“, her first published short story, from 1939.

Above: Ann Petry (aka Arnold Petri) (1908 – 1997)

The Reclaim Her Name collection is available to download as e-books for free.

Baileys hopes the project will give the authors “the visibility and credit they deserve” as well as encourage “new and important conversations around the continuing challenges women face in publishing and authors’ many reasons for using a pseudonym.

Again I am given pause to ponder.

Does a name enhance (or detract from) the quality of a person or the product which they produce?

Does it really matter whether a George or a Mary wrote Middlemarch?

Did the name of George harm the quality of the work?

Does the name of Mary improve the quality of the work?

Can a man write like a woman or a woman like a man?

Is a man less right when he writes of women because he is not a woman himself?

Are we to assume that a man is unqualified to write about women without possessing a uterus or a woman ill equipped to write of men without possessing male genitalia?

In the final analysis, shouldn’t the quality of the work be of far greater significance than the name of the writer attributed to the work?

pseudonym (from the Ancient Greek for ‘falsely named‘) or alias is a fictitious name that a person or group assumes for a particular purpose, which differs from their original or true name (orthonym).

This also differs from a new name that entirely or legally replaces an individual’s own.

Most pseudonym holders use pseudonyms, because they wish to remain anonymous, but anonymity is difficult to achieve and often fraught with legal issues.

Pseudonyms include: 

  • stage names
  • user names
  • boxing or wrestling ring names
  • pen names
  • nicknames
  • aliases
  • superhero or villain identities
  • code names
  • gamer identifications
  • regnal names of emperors, popes, and other monarchs

Historically, they have sometimes taken the form of anagrams, Graecisms and Latinisations, although there may be many other methods of choosing a pseudonym.

Pseudonyms should not be confused with new names that replace old ones and become the individual’s full-time name.

Pseudonyms are “part-time” names, used only in certain contexts – to provide a more clear-cut separation between one’s private and professional lives, to showcase or enhance a particular persona, or to hide an individual’s real identity, as with writers’ pen names, graffiti artists’ tags, resistance fighters or terrorists’ noms de guerre, and computer hackers’ handles. 

Actors, voice-over artists, musicians, and other performers sometimes use stage names, for example, to better channel a relevant energy, gain a greater sense of security and comfort via privacy, more easily avoid troublesome fans/”stalkers“, or to mask their ethnic backgrounds.

In some cases, pseudonyms are adopted because they are part of a cultural or organisational tradition:

For example, devotional names used by members of some religious institutes, and “cadre names” used by Communist Party leaders such as Trotsky and Lenin.

Above: Leon Trotsky (1879 – 1940)

Above: Vladimir Lenin (1870 – 1924)

A pseudonym may also be used for personal reasons:

For example, an individual may prefer to be called or known by a name that differs from their given or legal name, but is not ready to take the numerous steps to get their name legally changed.

Or an individual may simply feel that the context and content of an exchange offer no reason, legal or otherwise, to provide their given or legal name.

collective name or collective pseudonym is one shared by two or more persons, for example, the co-authors of a work, such as Carolyn Keene, Erin Hunter, Ellery Queen, Nicholas Bourbaki or James S.A. Corey.

Sometimes people change their names in such a manner that the new name becomes permanent and is used by all who know the person.

This is not an alias or pseudonym, but in fact a new name.

In many countries, including common law countries, a name change can be ratified by a court and become a person’s new legal name.

For example, in the 1960s, civil rights campaigner Malcolm X, originally known as Malcolm Little, changed his surname to “X” to represent his unknown African ancestral name that had been lost when his ancestors were brought to North America as slaves.

He then changed his name again to Malik El-Shabazz when he converted to Islam.

Above: Malcolm X (1925 – 1965)

Likewise some Jews adopted Hebrew family names upon immigrating to Israel, dropping surnames that had been in their families for generations.

Above: Flag of Israel

The politician David Ben-Gurion, for example, was born David Grün in Poland.

He adopted his Hebrew name in 1910 when he published his first article in a Zionist journal in Jerusalem.

Above: David Ben-Gurion (1886 – 1973)

Businesspersons of ethnic minorities in some parts of the world are sometimes advised by an employer to use a pseudonym that is common or acceptable in that area when conducting business, to overcome racial or religious bias.

Criminals may use aliases, fictitious business names and dummy corporations (corporate shells) to hide their identity, or to impersonate other persons or entities in order to commit fraud.

Aliases and fictitious business names used for dummy corporations may become so complex that, in the words of the Washington Post, “getting to the truth requires a walk down a bizarre labyrinth” and multiple government agencies may become involved to uncover the truth.

Giving a false name to a law enforcement officer is a crime in many jurisdictions.

A pen name, or nom de plume, is a pseudonym (sometimes a particular form of the real name) adopted by an author (or on the author’s behalf by their publishers).

Although the term is most frequently used today with regard to identity and the Internet, the concept of pseudonymity has a long history.

In ancient literature it was common to write in the name of a famous person, not for concealment or with any intention of deceit.

In the New Testament, the second letter of Peter is probably such.

Above: St. Peter (d. 68 CE) holding the keys to Heaven

A more modern example is all of The Federalist Papers, which were signed by Publius, a pseudonym representing the trio of James Madison, Alexander Hamilton and John Jay.

Above: James Madison (1751 – 1836)

Above: Alexander Hamilton (1755 – 1804)

Above: John Jay (1745 – 1829)

The papers were written partially in response to several Anti-Federalist Papers, also written under pseudonyms.

As a result of this pseudonymity, historians know that the papers were written by Madison, Hamilton, and Jay, but have not been able to discern with complete accuracy which of the three authored a few of the papers.

There are also examples of modern politicians and high-ranking bureaucrats writing under pseudonyms.

Some female authors used male pen names, in particular in the 19th century, when writing was a male-dominated profession.

The Brontë sisters used pen names for their early work, so as not to reveal their gender and so that local residents would not know that the books related to people of the neighbourhood.

The Brontës used their neighbours as inspiration for characters in many of their books. 

Anne Brontë’s The Tenant of Wildfell Hall (1848) was published under the name Acton Bell.

Above: Anne Brontë (1820 – 1849)

Charlotte Brontë used the name Currer Bell for Jane Eyre (1847) and Shirley (1849).

Above: Charlotte Brontë (1816 – 1855)

Emily Brontë adopted Ellis Bell as cover for Wuthering Heights (1847).

Above: Emily Brontë (1818 – 1848)

Other examples from the 19th century are the novelist Mary Ann Evans (George Eliot) and the French writer Amandine Aurore Lucile Dupin (George Sand).

Pseudonyms may also be used due to cultural or organization or political prejudices.

On the other hand, some 20th and 21st century male romance novelists have used female pen names. 

A few examples are Brindle Chase, Peter O’Donnell (Madeline Brent), Christopher Wood (Penny Sutton / Rosie Dixon), and Hugh C. Rae (Jessica Sterling).

Above: Christopher Wood (1935 – 2015)

Above: Hugh C. Rae (1935 – 2014)

A pen name may be used if a writer’s real name is likely to be confused with the name of another writer or notable individual, or if the real name is deemed unsuitable.

Authors who write both fiction and non-fiction, or in different genres, may use different pen names to avoid confusing their readers.

For example, the romance writer Nora Roberts writes mystery novels under the name J.D. Robb.

Above: Nora Roberts

In some cases, an author may become better known by his pen name than his real name.

Some famous examples of that include Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain), Eric Blair (George Orwell) and Theodor Geisel, better known as Dr. Seuss.

Above: Samuel Clemens (aka Mark Twain) (1835 – 1910)

Above: Eric Arthur Blair (aka George Orwell) (1903 – 1950)

Above: Theodore Geisel (aka Dr. Seuss) (1904 – 1991)

The British mathematician Charles Dodgson wrote fantasy novels as Lewis Carroll and mathematical treatises under his own name.

Above: Charles Dodgson (aka Lewis Carroll) (1832 – 1898)

Some authors, such as Harold Robbins, use several literary pseudonyms.

Above: Harold Robbins (1916 – 1997)

Some pen names have been used for long periods, even decades, without the author’s true identity being discovered, as with Elena Ferrante and Torsten Krol.

Joanne Rowling published the Harry Potter series as J. K. Rowling.

Rowling also published the Cormoran Strike series, a series of detective novels, including The Cuckoo’s Calling, under the pseudonym Robert Galbraith.

Above: Joanne Rowling

Winston Churchill wrote as Winston S. Churchill (from his full surname Spencer-Churchill which he did not otherwise use) in an attempt to avoid confusion with an American novelist of the same name.

The attempt was not wholly successful –

The two are still sometimes confused by booksellers.

Above: Winston Churchill (1874 – 1965)

Above: Winston Churchill (1871 – 1947)

A pen name may be used specifically to hide the identity of the author, as with exposé books about espionage or crime, or explicit erotic fiction.

Some prolific authors adopt a pseudonym to disguise the extent of their published output, e. g. Stephen King writing as Richard Bachman.

Above: Stephen King

Co-authors may choose to publish under a collective pseudonym, e. g., P.J. Tracy and Perri O’Shaughnessy, Frederic Dannay and Manfred Lee used the name Ellery Queen as a pen name for their collaborative works and as the name of their main character. 

Asa Earl Carter, a Southern white segregationist affiliated with the KKK, wrote Western books under a fictional Cherokee persona to imply legitimacy and conceal his history.

Above: Asa Earl Carter (1925 – 1979)

Why do authors choose pseudonyms?

It is rarely because they actually hope to stay anonymous forever.”, mused writer and columnist Russell Smith in his review of the Canadian novel Into That Fire by the pseudonymous M. J. Cates.

Above: Russell Smith

A famous case in French literature was Romain Gary.

Already a well-known writer, he started publishing books as Émile Ajar to test whether his new books would be well received on their own merits, without the aid of his established reputation.

They were.

Émile Ajar, like Romain Gary before him, was awarded the prestigious Prix Goncourt by a jury unaware that they were the same person.

Above: Romain Gary (1914 – 1980)

Similarly, TV actor Ronnie Barker submitted comedy material under the name Gerald Wiley.

Above: Ronnie Barker (1929 – 2005)

A collective pseudonym may represent an entire publishing house, or any contributor to a long-running series, especially with juvenile literature.

Examples include:

  • Watty Piper 

  • Victor Appleton

  • Erin Hunter

Erin Hunter is a collective pseudonym used by the authors Victoria Holmes, Kate Cary, Cherith Baldry, Inbali Iserles, Tui T. Sutherland and Rosie Best in the writing of several juvenile fantasy novel series, which focus on animals and their adventures.

Above: Vicky Holmes

Above: Kate Cary

Above: Cherith Baldry

Above: Inbali Iseries

Above: Tui T. Sutherland

Above: Rosie Best

  • Kamiru M. Xhan

Another use of a pseudonym in literature is to present a story as being written by the fictional characters in the story.

The series of novels known as A Series of Unfortunate Events are written by Daniel Handler under the pen name of Lemony Snicket, a character in the series.

This applies also to some of the several 18th-century English and American writers who used the name Fidelia.

Above: Daniel Handler

An anonymity pseudonym or multiple use name is a name used by many different people to protect anonymity.

It is a strategy that has been adopted by many unconnected radical groups and by cultural groups, where the construct of personal identity has been criticized.

This has led to the idea of the “open pop star“.

Pseudonyms and acronyms are often employed in medical research to protect subjects’ identities through a process known as de-identification.

Nicolaus Copernicus put forward his theory of heliocentrism in the manuscript Commentariolus anonymously, in part because of his employment as a law clerk for a church government organization.

Above: Mikołaj Kopernik (aka Nicholaus Copernicus) (1473 – 1543)

Sophie Germain and William Sealy Gosset used pseudonyms to publish their work in the field of mathematics – Germain, to avoid rampant 19th century academic misogyny, and Gosset, to avoid revealing brewing practices of his employer, the Guinness Brewery.

Above: Portrait of Sophie Germain (1776 – 1831)

Above: William Sealy Gosset (1876 – 1937)

Satoshi Nakamoto is a pseudonym of a still unknown author or authors’ group behind a white paper about bitcoin.

In Ancien Régime France, a nom de guerre (“war name“) would be adopted by each new recruit (or assigned to them by the captain of their company) as they enlisted in the French army.

These pseudonyms had an official character and were the predecessor of identification numbers:

Soldiers were identified by their first names, their family names, and their noms de guerre (e. g. Jean Amarault dit Lafidélité).

These pseudonyms were usually related to the soldier’s place of origin (e. g. Jean Deslandes dit Champigny, for a soldier coming from a town named Champigny), or to a particular physical or personal trait (e. g. Antoine Bonnet dit Prettaboire, for a soldier prêt à boire, ready to drink).

In 1716, a nom de guerre was mandatory for every soldier.

Officers did not adopt noms de guerre as they considered them derogatory.

In daily life, these aliases could replace the real family name.

Above: Coat of arms of pre-revolutionary Kingdom of France

Noms de guerre were adopted for security reasons by members of World War II French resistance and Polish resistance.

Above: American officer and French partisan, 1944

Above: Flag of the Polish Underground State (1939 – 1945)

Such pseudonyms are often adopted by military special-forces soldiers, such as members of the SAS and similar units of resistance fighters, terrorists and guerrillas.

This practice hides their identities and may protect their families from reprisals.

It may also be a form of dissociation from domestic life.

Above: Badge of the British Special Air Services

Some well-known men who adopted noms de guerre include:

  • Ilich Ramírez Sánchez (Carlos)

Above: Ilich Ramírez Sánchez (aka Carlos the Jackal)

  • Willy Brandt, Chancellor of West Germany

Above: Willy Brandt (1913 – 1992)

  • Subcomandate Marcos, spokesman of the Zapatista Army of National Liberation (EZLN)

Above: Rafael Sebastián Guillén Vicente (aka Subcomandante Marcos)

Above: Flag of the Zapista Army of National Liberation

During Lehi’s underground fight against the British in Mandatory Palestine, the organization’s commander Yitzchak Shamir (later Prime Minister of Israel) adopted the nom de guerre “Michael“, in honour of Ireland’s Michael Collins.

Above: Logo of the Lehi movement, a historic militant revisionist Zionist movement

Above: Map of Mandatory Palestine (1920 – 1948)

Above: Yitzhak Shamir (1915 – 2012)

Above: Michael Collins (1890 – 1922)

Revolutionaries and resistance leaders, such as Stalin, Golda Meir, Phillippe Leclerc de Hauteclocque and Josip Broz Tito often adopted their noms de guerre as their proper names after the struggle. 

Above: Joseph Stalin (1878 – 1953)

Above: Golda Meir (1898 – 1978)

Above: Philippe François Marie Leclerc de Hauteclocque (1902 – 1947)

Above: Josip Broz Tito (1892 – 1980)

Georgios Grivas, the Greek-Cypriot EOKA militant, adopted the nom de guerre Digenis.

Above: Georgios Grivas (1897 – 1974)

In the French Foreign Legion, recruits can adopt a pseudonym to break with their past lives.

Above: Emblem of the French Foreign Legion

Mercenaries have long used “noms de guerre“, sometimes even multiple identities, depending on the country, conflict, and circumstance.

Some of the most familiar noms de guerre today are the kunya used by Islamic mujahideen.

These take the form of a teknonym, either literal or figurative.

Above: Afghani mujahideen fighters; Durand Line border, 1985

Individuals using a computer online may adopt or be required to use a form of pseudonym known as a “handle” (a term deriving from CB slang), “user name“, “login name“, “avatar“, or, sometimes, “screen name”, “gamertag” “IGN (IGame (Nick)Name)” or “nickname“.

Above: Citizens band radio

Above: Jo Kay, an avatar in the game Second Life

On the Internet, pseudonymous remailers use cryptography that achieves persistent pseudonymity, so that two-way communication can be achieved, and reputations can be established, without linking physical identities to their respective pseudonyms. 

Above: Lorenz cipher machine used in WW2 to encrypt communications of the German High Command

Aliasing is the use of multiple names for the same data location.

Above: Logo of the TV series Alias (2001 – 2006)

More sophisticated cryptographic systems, such as anonymous digital credentials, enable users to communicate pseudonymously (i. e., by identifying themselves by means of pseudonyms).

In well-defined abuse cases, a designated authority may be able to revoke the pseudonyms and reveal the individuals’ real identity.

Use of pseudonyms is common among professional e-sports players, despite the fact that many professional games are played on LAN.

Above: Players competing in a League of Legends tournament

Pseudonymity has become an important phenomenon on the Internet and other computer networks.

In computer networks, pseudonyms possess varying degrees of anonymity, ranging from highly linkable public pseudonyms (the link between the pseudonym and a human being is publicly known or easy to discover), potentially linkable non-public pseudonyms (the link is known to system operators but is not publicly disclosed), and unlinkable pseudonyms (the link is not known to system operators and cannot be determined).

For example, a true anonymous remailer enables Internet users to establish unlinkable pseudonyms.

Those that employ non-public pseudonyms (such as the now-defunct Penet remailer) are called pseudonymous remailers.

The Penet remailer (anon.penet.fi) was a pseudonymous remailer operated by Johan “Julf” Helsingius of Finland from 1993 to 1996.

Its initial creation stemmed from an argument in a Finnish newsgroup over whether people should be required to tie their real name to their online communications.

Julf believed that people should not — indeed, could not — be required to do so.

In his own words:

Some people from a university network really argued about if everybody should put their proper name on the messages and everybody should be accountable, so you could actually verify that it is the person who is sending the messages.

And I kept arguing that the Internet just doesn’t work that way, and if somebody actually tries to enforce that, the Internet will always find a solution around it.

And just to prove my point, I spent two days or something cooking up the first version of the server, just to prove a point.

Above: Johan Helsingius

Julf’s remailer worked by receiving an e-mail from a person, stripping away all the technical information that could be used to identify the original source of the e-mail, and then remailing the message to its final destination.

The result provided Internet users with the ability to send e-mail messages and post to Usenet newsgroups without revealing their identities.

In addition, the Penet remailer used a type of “post office box” system in which users could claim their own anonymous e-mail addresses of the form anxxxxx@anon.penet.fi, allowing them to assign pseudonymous identities to their anonymous messages, and to receive messages sent to their (anonymous) e-mail addresses.

While the basic concept was effective, the Penet remailer had several vulnerabilities which threatened the anonymity of its users.

Chief among them was the need to store a list of real e-mail addresses mapped to the corresponding anonymous e-mail addresses on the server.

A potential attacker needed only to access that list to compromise the identities of all of Penet’s users.

The Penet remailer was on two occasions required by the legal system in Finland (the country where the Penet server hardware resided) to turn over the real e-mail address that was mapped to an anonymous e-mail address.

Above: Flag of Finland

Another potential vulnerability was that messages sent to and from the remailer were all sent in cleartext, making it vulnerable to electronic eavesdropping.

Despite its relatively weak security, the Penet remailer was a hugely popular remailer owing to its ease of anonymous account set-up and use compared to more secure but less user-friendly remailers, and had over 700,000 registered users at the time of its shutdown in September 1996.

The continuum of unlinkability can also be seen, in part, on Wikipedia.

Some registered users make no attempt to disguise their real identities (for example, by placing their real name on their user page).

The pseudonym of unregistered users is their IP address, which can, in many cases, easily be linked to them.

Other registered users prefer to remain anonymous, and do not disclose identifying information.

However, in certain cases, Wikipedia’s privacy policy permits system administrators to consult the server logs to determine the IP address, and perhaps the true name, of a registered user.

It is possible, in theory, to create an unlinkable Wikipedia pseudonym by using an open proxy, a Web server that disguises the user’s IP address, but most open proxy addresses are blocked indefinitely due to their frequent use by vandals.

Additionally, Wikipedia’s public record of a user’s interest areas, writing style, and argumentative positions may still establish an identifiable pattern.

System operators (sysops) at sites offering pseudonymity, such as Wikipedia, are not likely to build unlinkability into their systems, as this would render them unable to obtain information about abusive users quickly enough to stop vandalism and other undesirable behaviors.

Law enforcement personnel, fearing an avalanche of illegal behavior, are equally unenthusiastic. 

Still, some users and privacy activists, like the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU), believe that Internet users deserve stronger pseudonymity so that they can protect themselves against identity theft, illegal government surveillance, stalking, and other unwelcome consequences of Internet use (including unintentional disclosures of their personal information and doxing).

Above: Logo of the American Civil Liberties Union

Their views are supported by laws in some nations (such as Canada) that guarantee citizens a right to speak using a pseudonym.

This right does not, however, give citizens the right to demand publication of pseudonymous speech on equipment they do not own.

Above: Coat of arms of Canada

Most Web sites that offer pseudonymity retain information about users.

These sites are often susceptible to unauthorized intrusions into their non-public database systems.

For example, in 2000, a Welsh teenager obtained information about more than 26,000 credit card accounts, including that of Bill Gates.

Above: Bill Gates

In 2003, VISA and MasterCard announced that intruders obtained information about 5.6 million credit cards.

Sites that offer pseudonymity are also vulnerable to confidentiality breaches.

Above: Logo of Mastercard

In a study of a Web dating service and a pseudonymous remailer, University of Cambridge researchers discovered that the systems used by these Web sites to protect user data could be easily compromised, even if the pseudonymous channel is protected by strong encryption.

Typically, the protected pseudonymous channel exists within a broader framework in which multiple vulnerabilities exist.

Pseudonym users should bear in mind that, given the current state of Web security engineering, their true names may be revealed at any time.

Above: Coat of arms of the University of Cambridge, England

Pseudonymity is an important component of the reputation systems found in online auction services (such as eBay), discussion sites (such as Slashdot), and collaborative knowledge development sites (such as Wikipedia).

A pseudonymous user who has acquired a favorable reputation gains the trust of other users.

When users believe that they will be rewarded by acquiring a favourable reputation, they are more likely to behave in accordance with the site’s policies.

If users can obtain new pseudonymous identities freely or at a very low cost, reputation-based systems are vulnerable to whitewashing attacks, also called serial pseudonymity, in which abusive users continuously discard their old identities and acquire new ones in order to escape the consequences of their behavior:

On the Internet, nobody knows that yesterday you were a dog, and therefore should be in the doghouse today.

Users of Internet communities who have been banned only to return with new identities are called sock puppets.

Whitewashing is one specific form of Sybil attack on distributed systems.

The Sybil attack in computer security is an attack wherein a reputation system is subverted by creating multiple identities

The social cost of cheaply discarded pseudonyms is that experienced users lose confidence in new users, and may subject new users to abuse until they establish a good reputation.

System operators may need to remind experienced users that most newcomers are well-intentioned.

Concerns have also been expressed about sock puppets exhausting the supply of easily remembered usernames.

Above: In Internet terms, sock puppets are online identities used for disguised activity by the operator.

In addition a recent research paper demonstrated that people behave in a potentially more aggressive manner when using pseudonyms/nicknames (due to the online distribution effect) as opposed to being completely anonymous.

In contrast, research by the blog comment hosting service Disqus found pseudonymous users contributed the “highest quantity and quality of comments“, where “quality” is based on an aggregate of likes, replies, flags, spam reports, and comment deletions, and found that users trusted pseudonyms and real names equally.

Researchers at the University of Cambridge showed that pseudonymous comments tended to be more substantive and engaged with other users in explanations, justifications, and chains of argument, and less likely to use insults, than either fully anonymous or real name comments.

Proposals have been made to raise the costs of obtaining new identities, such as by charging a small fee or requiring e-mail confirmation.

Academic research has proposed cryptographic methods to pseudonymize social media identities or government-issued identities, to accrue and use anonymous reputation in online forums, or to obtain one-per-person and hence less readily-discardable pseudonyms periodically at physical-world pseudonym parties.

Others point out that Wikipedia’s success is attributable in large measure to its nearly non-existent initial participation costs.

Above: Logo of Wikipedia

People seeking privacy often use pseudonyms to make appointments and reservations.

Those writing to advice columns in newspapers and magazines may use pseudonyms.

Steve Wozniak used a pseudonym when attending the University of California (Berkeley) after co-founding Apple Computer, because “he knew he wouldn’t have time enough to be an A+ student“.

Above: Steve Wozniak

Above: Logo of Apple Inc.

When used by an actor, musician, radio disc jockey, model, or other performer or “show business” personality a pseudonym is called a stage name, or, occasionally, a professional name, or screen name.

Members of a marginalized ethnic or religious group have often adopted stage names, typically changing their surname or entire name to mask their original background.

Stage names are also used to create a more marketable name, as in the case of Creighton Tull Chaney, who adopted the pseudonym Lon Chaney, Jr., a reference to his famous father Lon Chaney, Sr.

Above: Creighton Tull Chaney (aka Lon Chaney Jr.) (1906 – 1973)

Above: Lon Chaney Sr. (1883 – 1930)

Chris Curtis of Deep Purple fame was christened as Christopher Crummey (“crumby” is UK slang for poor quality).

In this and similar cases a stage name is adopted simply to avoid an unfortunate pun.

Above: Chris Curtis (1941 – 2005)

Pseudonyms are also used to comply with the rules of performing arts guilds (Screen Actors Guild (SAG), Writers Guild of America (WGA), AFTRA, etc.), which do not allow performers to use an existing name, in order to avoid confusion.

Above: Logo of the American Federation of Television and Radio Artists of the American Federation of Labor – Congress of Industrial Organizations

For example, these rules required film and television actor Michael Fox to add a middle initial and become Michael J. Fox, to avoid being confused with another actor named Michael Fox.

Above: Michael J. Fox

Above: Michael Fox (1921 – 1996)

This was also true of author and actress Fannie Flagg, who chose this pseudonym.

Her real name, Patricia Neal, being the name of another well-known actress.

Above: Patricia Neal (aka Fannie Flagg)

Above: Patricia Neal (1926 – 2010)

British actor Stewart Granger’s real name was James Stewart.

Above: James Stewart (aka Stewart Granger) (1913 – 1993)

Above: James Stewart (1908 – 1997)

The film-making team of Joel and Ethan Coen, for instance, share credit for editing under the alias Roderick Jaynes.

Above: Joel (right) and Ethan (left) Cohen

Some stage names are used to conceal a person’s identity, such as the pseudonym Alan Smithee, which was used by directors in the Directors Guild of America (DGA) to remove their name from a film they feel was edited or modified beyond their artistic satisfaction.

In theatre, the pseudonyms George or Georgina Spelvin, and Walter Plinge are used to hide the identity of a performer, usually when he or she is “doubling” (playing more than one role in the same play).

Above: Sarah Bernhardt (1844 – 1923) as Hamlet, 1899

David Agnew was a name used by the BBC to conceal the identity of a scriptwriter, such as for the Doctor Who serial “City of Death“, which had three writers, including Douglas Adams, who was at the time of writing the show’s script editor.

Above: Logo of the British Broadcasting Corporation

Above: Lalla Ward (companion Romana) and Tom Baker (the 4th Doctor), Doctor Who, “City of Death“, aired in 4 episodes (29 September – 20 October 1979), written by “David Agnew” (pseudonym for David Fisher, Douglas Adams and Graham Williams)

Above: David Fisher (1929 – 2018)

Above: Douglas Adams (1952 – 2001)

Above: Graham Williams (1945 – 1990)

In another Doctor Who serial, “The Brain of Morbius“, writer Terrance Dicks demanded the removal of his name from the credits saying it could go out under a “bland pseudonym“.

This ended up as Robin Bland.

Above: Stuart Fell (Morbius), Philip Madoc (Dr. Solon) and Tom Baker (the 4th Doctor), Doctor Who, “The Brain of Morbius“, aired in 4 episodes (3 – 24 January 1976), written by “Robin Bland” (Terrance Dicks)

Above: Terrance Dicks (1935 – 2019)

Musicians and singers can use pseudonyms to allow artists to collaborate with artists on other labels while avoiding the need to gain permission from their own labels, such as the artist Jerry Samuels, who made songs under Napoleon XIV.

Above: Jerry Samuels

Rock singer-guitarist George Harrison, for example, played guitar on Cream’s song “Badge” using a pseudonym.

Above: George Harrison (1943 – 2001)

In classical music, some record companies issued recordings under a nom de disque in the 1950s and 1960s to avoid paying royalties.

A number of popular budget LPs of piano music were released under the pseudonym Paul Procopolis.

Another example is that Paul McCartney used his fictional name “Bernerd Webb” for Peter and Gordon’s song “Woman“.

Above: Paul McCartney

Pseudonyms are used as stage names in heavy metal bands, such as: 

  • Tracii Guns in LA Guns

Above: Tracy Richard Irving Ulrich (aka Tracii Guns)

  • Axl Rose and Slash in Guns N’ Roses  

Above: William Bruce Rose Jr. (aka Axl Rose)

Above: Saul Hudson (aka Slash)

  • Mick Mars in Mötley Crüe

Above: Bob Alan Deal (aka Mick Mars)

  • Dimebag Darrell in Pantera  

Above: Darrell Lance Abbott (aka Dimebag Darrell) (1966 – 2004)

  • C.C. Deville in Poison

Above: Bruce Anthony Johannesson (aka CC DeVille)

Some such names have additional meanings, like that of Brian Hugh Warner, more commonly known as Marilyn Manson:

Above: Brian Hugh Warner (aka Marilyn Manson)

Marilyn coming from Marilyn Monroe and Manson from convicted serial killer Charles Manson. 

Above: Norma Jeane Mortenson (aka Marilyn Monroe) (1926 – 1962)

Above: Charles Manson (1934 – 2017)

Jacoby Shaddix of Papa Roach went under the name “Coby Dick” during the Infest era.

He changed back to his birth name when lovehatetragedy was released.

Above: Jacoby Shaddix

David Johansen, front man for the hard rock band New York Dolls, recorded and performed pop and lounge music under the pseudonym Buster Poindexter in the late 1980s and early 1990s.

The music video for Poindexter’s debut single, Hot Hot Hot, opens with a monologue from Johansen where he notes his time with the New York Dolls and explains his desire to create more sophisticated music.

Above: David Johansen

Ross Bagdasarian, Sr., creator of Alvin and the Chipmunks, wrote original songs, arranged and produced the records under his real name, but performed on them as David Seville.

He also wrote songs as Skipper Adams.

Above: Ross Bagdasarian Sr. (aka David Saville) (1919 – 1972)

Danish pop pianist Bent Fabric, whose full name is Bent Fabricius-Bjerre, wrote his biggest instrumental hit “Alley Cat” as Frank Bjorn.

For a time, the musician Prince used an unpronounceable “Love Symbol” as a pseudonym.

(“Prince” is his actual first name rather than a stage name).

Above: Prince Rogers Nelson (1958 – 2016)

He wrote the song “Sugar Walls” for Sheena Easton as “Alexander Nevermind” and “Manic Monday” for the Bangles as “Christopher Tracy“.

(He also produced albums early in his career as “Jamie Starr“.)

Above: Sheena Easton

Above: The Bangles – Susanna Hoffs, Vicki Peterson and Debbi Peterson

Many Italian-American singers have used stage names, as their birth names were difficult to pronounce or considered too ethnic for American tastes.

Singers changing their names included: 

  • Dean Martin (born: Dino Paul Crocetti)

Above: Dean Martin (1917 – 1995)

  • Connie Francis (born: Concetta Franconero)

Above: Connie Francis

  • Frankie Valli (born: Francesco Castelluccio) 

  • Tony Bennett (born: Anthony Benedetto)

Above: Tony Bennett

  • Lady Gaga (born: Stefani Germanotta)

In 2009, the British rock band Feeder briefly changed its name to Renegades so it could play a whole show featuring a set list in which 95% of the songs played were from their forthcoming new album of the same name, with none of their singles included.

Front man Grant Nicholas felt that if they played as Feeder, there would be uproar over him not playing any of the singles, so used the pseudonym as a hint.

A series of small shows were played in 2010, at 250 to 1,000 capacity venues with the plan not to say who the band really are and just announce the shows as if they were a new band.

Above: Feeder

In many cases, hip-hop and rap artists prefer to use pseudonyms that represents some variation of their name, personality, or interests.

Examples include:

  • Iggy Azalea (her stage name is a combination of her dog’s name, Iggy, and her home street in Mullumbimby, Azalea Street)

Above: Amethyst Amelia Kelly (aka Iggy Azalea)

  • Ol’ Dirty Bastard (known under at least six aliases)

Above: Russell Tyrone Jones (1968 – 2004)

  • Diddy (previously known at various times as Puffy, P. Diddy, and Puff Daddy)

Above: Sean Combs

  • Ludacris

Above: Christopher Brian Bridges (aka Ludacris)

  • Flo Rida (whose stage name is a tribute to his home state, Florida)

Above: Tramar Lacel Dillard (aka Flo Rida)

  • British-Jamaican hip-hop artist Stefflon Don (real name: Stephanie Victoria Allen)

Above: Stephanie Victoria Allen (aka Stefflon Don)

  • LL Cool J 

Above: James Todd Smith (aka LL Cool J)

  • Chingy 

Above: Howard Earl Bailey Jr. (aka Chingy)

Black metal artists also adopt pseudonyms, usually symbolizing dark values, such as Nocturno CultoGaahl, Abbath and Silenoz.

Above: Ted Skjellum (aka Nocturno Culto)

Above: Kristian Eivind Espedal (aka Gaahl)

Above: Olve Eikemo (aka Abbath)

In punk and hardcore punk, singers and band members often replace real names with tougher-sounding stage names, such as Sid Vicious (real name: John Simon Ritchie) of the late 1970s band Sex Pistols and “Rat” of the early 1980s band the Varukers and the 2000s re-formation of Discharge.

Above: Sid Vicious (1957 – 1979)

The punk rock band the Ramones had every member take the last name of Ramone.

Henry John Deutschendorf Jr., an American singer-songwriter, used the stage name John Denver.

Above: John Denver (1943 – 1997)

The Australian country musician born Robert Lane changed his name to Tex Morton.

Above: Bust of Tex Morton (1916 – 1983), Bicentennial Park, Tamsworth, New South Wales, Australia

Reginald Kenneth Dwight legally changed his name in 1972 to Elton John.

Above: Elton John

And here are other questions that bother me.

Does a person exist without a name?

Does the lack of a name deny the corporeal existence of a person?

Would Reginald Dwight have been just as successful under his own name rather than the pseudonym Elton John?

I give my Swiss friend, whose globetrotting adventures I occasionally chronicle, the pseudonym of Swiss Miss in the interest of concealing her identity in an age where women need to protect their public persona from unwanted male attention.

I give myself the pseudonym of Canada Slim, for no other reason than I like the nickname that a trio of people assigned me during and after my hitchhiking adventures in the United States in my 20s.

I have nothing to conceal, for the digital presence under my name of Adam Kerr is carefully considered so as not to offend anyone’s sensibilities too often.

I try not to leave myself too vulnerable to the unscrupulous who seek to use my identity for their own profit.

Above: Your humble blogger

That being said there are far more delicious delights in other people’s accounts than could ever be found in those of an ESL teacher in Turkey.

I am not unduly concerned.

Above: Flag of Turkey

The other issue that concerns me is the subtle whitewashing of historical events.

Hear me out.

Is it certainly a good thing to give a woman credit for her accomplishments?

Absolutely.

Was an authoress’ decision to give herself a male pseudonym a legitimate one considering the fear that she might not have gotten published had she used her feminine name?

Perhaps.

Certainly it would have great had the past accepted women more.

But I fight against altering the past because it does not match the sentiments of the present.

This leaves an Orwellian bad taste in my mouth.

The Ministry of Truth controls information: news, entertainment, education, and the arts.

Winston Smith works in the Records Department, “rectifying” historical records to accord with Big Brother’s current pronouncements so that everything the Party says appears to be true.

Above: John Hurt (Winston Smith), Nineteen Eighty-Four (1984)

It is considered impolite, for example, to suggest that the South were traitors to America, that they fought for states’ rights not based on the Constitution rather than the reality of retaining slaves.

Above: Flag of the Confederate States of America (1861 – 1865)

It is unpleasant, but the past is necessarily unpleasant and must be acknowledged as it was and not as we wish it had been.

Otherwise the folly committed has no lessons of wisdom for us in the present.

Without Hiroshima and Nagasaki would the world be less inclined to wage nuclear warfare?

Above: Genbaku Dome (Hiroshima Peace Memorial), Hiroshima, Japan

Without the acknowledgement of the horror of the Holocaust would Israel exist and would Germany have grown as a civilized nation because it accepted responsibility for its deeds so as to never allow such horror to arise again there?

Above: From the Auschwitz Album: Hungarian Jews arriving at Auschwitz II in German-occupied Poland, May 1944. Most were “selected” to go to the gas chambers. Camp prisoners are visible in their striped uniforms. The Auschwitz Album is the only surviving visual evidence of the process leading to mass murder at Auschwitz-Birkenau.

Other countries have committed similar atrocities, but the sins of the father can never be extirpated if they are denied.

But if I say it didn’t happen then I am absolved of responsibility?

Above: Nyamata Memorial Site, Rwanda

Certainly the naming of authors bears no horror in comparison to the Holocaust or nuclear annihilation, but where there is similarity is the willingness to admit that the necessity for women authors to give themselves male names existed and that history must somehow be altered so that it appears that this necessity did not exist, so that the past is more politically correct to present sensibilities.

I honestly don’t care who wrote Middlemarch or Indiana if they are books worth reading.

Let Mary Ann or Amantine be George, if that is how they are recognized and remembered.

We know today whose names hid behind George so why is it now necessary to change the names on the books we recognize more with the name George?

Let the writing stand on its own merits rather than on the perception of value assigned to gender names.

Mary Ann Evans was born in Nuneaton, Warwickshire, England.

She was the third child and daughter of a local mill-owner.

She spelled her name differently at different times:

Mary Anne was the spelling used by her father for the baptismal record and she uses this spelling in her earliest letters.

Within her family, however, it was spelled Mary Ann.

Above: Market Place, Nuneaton, England

In early 1820 the Evans family moved to a house named Griff House, between Nuneaton and Bedworth.

Above: Griff House

The young Evans was a voracious reader and obviously intelligent.

Because she was not considered physically beautiful, Evans was not thought to have much chance of marriage, and this, coupled with her intelligence, led her father to invest in an education not often afforded women.

From ages five to nine, she boarded with her sister Chrissey at Miss Latham’s school in Attleborough, from ages 9 to 13 at Mrs. Wallington’s school in Nuneaton, and from ages 13 to 16 at Miss Franklin’s school in Coventry.

Above: Attleborough Baptist Chapel, Nuneaton

At Mrs. Wallington’s school, she was taught by the evangelical Maria Lewis — to whom her earliest surviving letters are addressed.

In the religious atmosphere of the Misses Franklin’s school, Evans was exposed to a quiet, disciplined belief opposed to evangelicalism.

Above: Nant Glyn School, Coventry

After age 16, Evans had little formal education.

Thanks to her father’s important role on the estate, she was allowed access to the library of Arbury Hall, which greatly aided her self-education and breadth of learning.

Her classical education left its mark.

Above: Arbury Hall, Nuneaton

Christopher Stray has observed that:

George Eliot’s novels draw heavily on Greek literature and her themes are often influenced by Greek tragedy“.

Her frequent visits to the estate also allowed her to contrast the wealth in which the local landowner lived with the lives of the often much poorer people on the estate, and different lives lived in parallel would reappear in many of her works.

The other important early influence in her life was religion.

She was brought up within a low church Anglican family, but at that time the Midlands was an area with a growing number of religious dissenters.

Above: Canterbury Cathedral, England

In 1836, her mother died and Evans (then 16) returned home to act as housekeeper, but she continued correspondence with her tutor Maria Lewis.

When she was 21, her brother Isaac married and took over the family home, so Evans and her father moved to Foleshill near Coventry.

Above: Tower Court and Foleshill Road, Foleshill

The closeness to Coventry society brought new influences, most notably those of Charles and Cara Bray. 

Charles Bray had become rich as a ribbon manufacturer and had used his wealth in the building of schools and in other philanthropic causes.

Above: Charles Bray (1811 – 1884)

Evans, who had been struggling with religious doubts for some time, became intimate friends with the radical, free-thinking Brays, whose “Rosehill” home was a haven for people who held and debated radical views.

The people whom the young woman met at the Brays’ house included Robert Owen, Herbert Spencer, Harriet Martineau and Ralph Waldo Emerson.

Above: Robert Owen (1771 – 1858)

Above: Herbert Spencer (1820 – 1903)

Above: Harriet Martineau (1802 – 1876)

Above: Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803 – 1882)

Through this society Evans was introduced to more liberal and agnostic theologies and to writers such as David Strauss and Ludwig Feuerbach, who cast doubt on the literal truth of Biblical texts.

In fact, her first major literary work was an English translation of Strauss’s Das Leben Jesu kritisch bearbeitet as The Life of Jesus, Critically Examined (1846), which she completed after it had been left incomplete by Elizabeth “Rufa” Brabant, another member of the “Rosehill Circle“.

The Strauss book had caused a sensation in Germany by arguing that the miracles in the New Testament were mythical additions with little basis in fact.

Above: David Strauss (1808 – 1874)

Evans’s translation had a similar effect in England, the Earl of Shaftesbury calling her translation “the most pestilential book ever vomited out of the jaws of hell“.

Later she translated Feuerbach’s The Essence of Christianity (1854).

Above: Ludwig Feuerbach (1804 – 1872)

The ideas in these books would have an effect on her own fiction.

As a product of their friendship, Bray published some of Evans’s own earliest writing, such as reviews, in his newspaper the Coventry Herald and Observer.

As Evans began to question her own religious faith, her father threatened to throw her out of the house, but his threat was not carried out.

Instead, she respectfully attended church and continued to keep house for him until his death in 1849, when she was 30.

Five days after her father’s funeral, she travelled to Switzerland with the Brays.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

She decided to stay on in Geneva alone, living first on the lake at Plongeon (near the present-day United Nations buildings) and then on the second floor of a house owned by her friends François and Juliet d’Albert Durade on the rue de Chanoines (now the rue de la Pelisserie).

She commented happily that “one feels in a downy nest high up in a good old tree“.

Her stay is commemorated by a plaque on the building.

While residing there, she read avidly and took long walks in the beautiful Swiss countryside, which was a great inspiration to her.

François Durade painted her portrait there as well.

Above: Geneva, Switzerland

On her return to England the following year (1850), she moved to London with the intent of becoming a writer, and she began referring to herself as Marian Evans.

She stayed at the house of John Chapman, the radical publisher whom she had met earlier at Rosehill and who had published her Strauss translation.

Above: John Chapman (1821 – 1894)

Chapman had recently purchased the campaigning, left-wing journal The Westminster Review.

Evans became its assistant editor in 1851 after joining just a year earlier.

Evans’s writings for the paper were comments on her views of society and the Victorian way of thinking.

She was sympathetic to the lower classes and criticized organised religion throughout her articles and reviews and commented on contemporary ideas of the time.

Much of this was drawn from her own experiences and knowledge and she used this to critique other ideas and organisations.

This led to her writing being viewed as authentic and wise but not too obviously opinionated.

Evans also focused on the business side of the Review with attempts to change its layout and design.

Although Chapman was officially the editor, it was Evans who did most of the work of producing the journal, contributing many essays and reviews beginning with the January 1852 issue and continuing until the end of her employment at the Review in the first half of 1854.

Eliot sympathized with the 1848 revolutions throughout continental Europe, and even hoped that the Italians would chase the “odious Austrians” out of Lombardy and that “decayed monarchs” would be pensioned off, although she believed a gradual reformist approach to social problems was best for England.

Above: On the barricades on the rue Soufflot, Paris, 25 June 1848, Horace Vernet (1849)

In 1850–51, Evans attended classes in mathematics at the Ladies College in Bedford Square, later known as Bedford College, London.

Above: Bedford College (1849 – 1985)

The philosopher and critic George Henry Lewes met Evans in 1851.

By 1854 they had decided to live together.

Lewes was already married to Agnes Jervis, although in an open marriage.

Above: George Henry Lewes (1817 – 1878)

In addition to the three children they had together, Agnes also had four children by Thornton Leigh Hunt.

Above: Thornton Leigh Hunt (1810 – 1873)

In July 1854, Lewes and Evans travelled to Weimar and Berlin together for the purpose of research.

Above: Weimar, Germany

Above: Berlin, Germany

Before going to Germany, Evans continued her theological work with a translation of Feuerbach’s The Essence of Christianity.

While abroad she wrote essays and worked on her translation of Baruch Spinoza’s Ethics, which she completed in 1856, but which was not published in her lifetime.

Above: Baruch Spinoza (1632 – 1677)

In 2020, Eliot’s translation of Spinoza’s Ethics was finally published by Princeton University Press.

The trip to Germany also served as a honeymoon for Evans and Lewes, who subsequently considered themselves married.

Evans began to refer to Lewes as her husband and to sign her name as Mary Ann Evans Lewes, legally changing her name to Mary Ann Evans Lewes after his death.

It was not so much the adultery itself, but the refusal to conceal the relationship, that was felt to breach the social convention of the time, and attracted so much disapproval.

Above: George Henry Lewes and Mary Ann Evans

While continuing to contribute pieces to the Westminster Review, Evans resolved to become a novelist, and set out a pertinent manifesto in one of her last essays for the Review, “Silly Novels by Lady Novelists“(1856).

The essay criticized the trivial and ridiculous plots of contemporary fiction written by women.

In other essays, she praised the realism of novels that were being written in Europe at the time, an emphasis on realistic storytelling confirmed in her own subsequent fiction.

She also adopted a nom-de-plume, George Eliot.

As she explained to her biographer J. W. Cross, George was Lewes’s forename, and Eliot was “a good mouth-filling, easily pronounced word“.

In 1857, when she was 37 years of age, “The Sad Fortunes of the Reverend Amos Barton“, the first of the three stories included in Scenes of Clerical Life, and the first work of “George Eliot“, was published in Blackwood’s Magazine

The Scenes (published as a 2-volume book in 1858), was well received, and was widely believed to have been written by a country parson, or perhaps the wife of a parson.

Evans’s first complete novel, published in 1859, was Adam Bede

It was an instant success, and prompted yet more intense curiosity as to the author’s identity:

There was even a pretender to the authorship, one Joseph Liggins.

This public interest subsequently led to Marian Evans Lewes’s acknowledgment that it was she who stood behind the pseudonym George Eliot. 

Adam Bede is known for embracing a realist aesthetic inspired by Dutch visual art.

The revelations about Eliot’s private life surprised and shocked many of her admiring readers, but this did not affect her popularity as a novelist.

Her relationship with Lewes afforded her the encouragement and stability she needed to write fiction, but it would be some time before the couple were accepted into polite society.

Acceptance was finally confirmed in 1877 when they were introduced to Princess Louise, the daughter of Queen Victoria.

Above: Princess Louise (1848 – 1939)

The Queen herself was an avid reader of all of Eliot’s novels and was so impressed with Adam Bede that she commissioned the artist Edward Henry Corbould to paint scenes from the book.

Above: Queen Victoria (1819 – 1901)

Above: Edward Henry Corbould (1815 – 1905)

When the American Civil War broke out in 1861, Eliot expressed sympathy for the Union cause, something which historians have attributed to her abolitionist sympathies.

Above: Images of the American Civil War (1861 – 1865)

Above: George Eliot, 1864

In 1868, she supported philosopher Richard Congreve’s protests against governmental policies in Ireland and had a positive view of the growing movement in support of Irish home rule.

Above: Richard Congreve (1818 – 1899)

She was influenced by the writings of John Stuart Mill and read all of his major works as they were published.

In Mill’s Subjection of Women (1869) she judged the second chapter excoriating the laws which oppress married women “excellent“.

She was supportive of Mill’s parliamentary run, but believed that the electorate was unlikely to vote for a philosopher and was surprised when he won.

While Mill served in Parliament, she expressed her agreement with his efforts on behalf of female suffrage, being “inclined to hope for much good from the serious presentation of women’s claims before Parliament“. 

Above: John Stuart Mill (1806 – 1873)

In a letter to John Morley, she declared her support for plans “which held out reasonable promise of tending to establish as far as possible an equivalence of advantage for the two sexes, as to education and the possibilities of free development“, and dismissed appeals to nature in explaining women’s lower status.

Above: John Morley (1838 – 1923)

In 1870, she responded enthusiastically to Lady Amberley’s feminist lecture on the claims of women for education, occupations, equality in marriage, and child custody.

Above: Lady Amberley (1842 – 1874)

After the success of Adam Bede, Eliot continued to write popular novels for the next fifteen years.

Within a year of completing Adam Bede, she finished The Mill on the Floss, dedicating the manuscript: “To my beloved husband, George Henry Lewes, I give this MS. of my third book, written in the sixth year of our life together, at Holly Lodge, South Field, Wandsworth, and finished 21 March 1860.” 

Silas Mariner (1861) and Romola (1863) soon followed, and later Felix Holt, the Radical (1866) and her most acclaimed novel, Middlemarch (1872).

Her last novel was Daniel Deronda, published in 1876, after which she and Lewes moved to Witley, Surrey.

By this time Lewes’s health was failing, and he died two years later, on 30 November 1878.

Eliot spent the next two years editing Lewes’s final work, Life and Mind, for publication.

She found solace and companionship with John Walter Cross, a Scottish commission agent 20 years her junior, whose mother had recently died.

Above: John Walter Cross (1840 – 1924)

On 16 May 1880 Eliot married John Walter Cross and again changed her name, this time to Mary Ann Cross.

While the marriage courted some controversy due to the difference in ages, it pleased her brother Isaac, who had broken off relations with her when she had begun to live with Lewes, and now sent congratulations.

Above: Isaac Evans (1816 – 1890)

While the couple were honeymooning in Venice, Cross, in a reported suicide attempt, jumped from the hotel balcony into the Grand Canal.

Above: Grand Canal, Venice, Italy

He survived, and the newlyweds returned to England.

They moved to a new house in Chelsea, but Eliot fell ill with a throat infection.

This, coupled with the kidney disease with which she had been afflicted for several years, led to her death on 22 December 1880 at the age of 61.

Due to her denial of the Christian faith and her adulterous affair with Lewes, Eliot was not buried in Westminster Abbey.

Above: Westminster Abbey, London, England

She was instead interred in Highgate Cemetery, London, in the area reserved for political and religious dissenters and agnostics, beside the love of her life, George Henry Lewes.

The graves of Karl Marx and her friend Herbert Spencer are nearby.

Above: Karl Marx (1818 – 1883)

In 1980, on the centenary of her death, a memorial stone was established for her in the Poets’ Corner.

Several landmarks in her birthplace of Nuneaton are named in her honour.

Above: George Eliot Bench, Nuneaton

Middlemarch, A Study of Provincial Life is a novel by the English author Mary Anne Evans, who wrote as George Eliot.

Although female authors were published under their own names during her lifetime, she wanted to escape the stereotype of women’s writing being limited to lighthearted romances or other lighter fare not to be taken very seriously.

She also wanted to have her fiction judged separately from her already extensive and widely known work as a translator, editor, and critic.

Another factor in her use of a pen name may have been a desire to shield her private life from public scrutiny, thus avoiding the scandal that would have arisen because of her relationship with the married George Henry Lewes.

It first appeared in eight instalments (volumes) in 1871 and 1872.

Set in Middlemarch, a fictional English Midland town, in 1829 to 1832, it follows distinct, intersecting stories with many characters. 

Issues include the status of women, the nature of marriage, idealism, self-interest, religion, hypocrisy, political reform, and education.

Despite comic elements, Middlemarch uses realism to encompass historical events: the 1832 Reform Act, early railways, and the accession of King William IV.

It looks at medicine of the time and reactionary views in a settled community facing unwelcome change.

Eliot began writing the two pieces that formed the novel in 1869–1870 and completed it in 1871.

Initial reviews were mixed, but it is now seen widely as her best work and one of the great English novels.

Middlemarch was described by the novelist Virginia Woolf as “one of the few English novels written for grown-up people” and by Martin Amis and Julian Barnes as the greatest novel in the English language.

Dorothea Brooke is a 19-year-old orphan, living with her younger sister, Celia, as a ward of her uncle, Mr. Brooke.

Dorothea is an especially pious young woman, whose hobby involves the renovation of buildings belonging to the tenant farmers, although her uncle discourages her.

Dorothea is courted by Sir James Chettam, a young man close to her own age, but she is oblivious to him.

She is attracted instead to the Rev. Edward Casaubon, a 45-year-old scholar.

Dorothea accepts Casaubon‘s offer of marriage, despite her sister’s misgivings.

Chettam is encouraged to turn his attention to Celia, who has developed an interest in him.

Fred and Rosamond Vincy are the eldest children of Middlemarch’s town mayor.

Having never finished university, Fred is widely seen as a failure and a layabout, but allows himself to coast because he is the presumed heir of his childless uncle Mr. Featherstone, a rich but unpleasant man.

Featherstone keeps as a companion a niece of his by marriage, Mary Garth.

Although she is considered plain, Fred is in love with her and wants to marry her.

Dorothea and Casaubon experience the first tensions in their marriage on their honeymoon in Rome, when Dorothea finds that her husband has no interest in involving her in his intellectual pursuits and no real intention of having his copious notes published, which was her chief reason for marrying him.

She meets Will Ladislaw, Casaubon‘s much younger disinherited cousin, whom he supports financially.

Ladislaw begins to feel attracted to Dorothea.

She remains oblivious, but the two become friendly.

Fred becomes deeply in debt and finds himself unable to repay what he owes.

Having asked Mr. Garth, Mary‘s father, to co-sign the debt, he now tells Garth he must forfeit it.

As a result, Mrs. Garth‘s savings from four years of income, held in reserve for the education of her youngest son, are wiped out, as are Mary‘s savings.

As a result, Mr. Garth warns Mary against ever marrying Fred.

Fred comes down with an illness, of which he is cured by Dr. Tertius Lydgate, a newly arrived doctor in Middlemarch.

Lydgate has modern ideas about medicine and sanitation and believes doctors should prescribe, but not themselves dispense medicines.

This draws ire and criticism of many in the town.

He allies himself with Bulstrode, a wealthy, church-going landowner and developer, who wants to build a hospital and clinic that follow Lydgate‘s philosophy, despite the misgivings of Lydgate‘s friend, Farebrother, about Bulstrode‘s integrity.

Lydgate also becomes acquainted with Rosamond Vincy, whose beauty and education go together with shallowness and self-absorption.

Seeking to make a good match, she decides to marry Lydgate, who comes from a wealthy family, and uses Fred‘s sickness as an opportunity to get close to the doctor.

Lydgate initially views their relationship as pure flirtation and backs away from Rosamond after discovering that the town considers them practically engaged.

However, on seeing her a final time, he breaks his resolution and the two become engaged.

Casaubon arrives back from Rome about the same time, only to suffer a heart attack.

Lydgate, brought in to attend him, tells Dorothea it is difficult to pronounce on the nature of Casaubon‘s illness and chances of recovery:

That he may indeed live about 15 years if he takes it easy and ceases his studies, but it is equally possible the disease may develop rapidly, in which case death will be sudden.

As Fred recovers, Mr. Featherstone falls ill.

He reveals on his deathbed that he has made two wills and tries to get Mary to help him destroy one.

Unwilling to be involved in the business, she refuses.

Featherstone dies with both wills still intact.

Featherstone‘s plan had been for £10,000 to go to Fred Vincy, but his estate and fortune instead go to an illegitimate son of his, Joshua Rigg.

Casaubon, in poor health, has grown suspicious of Dorothea‘s goodwill to Ladislaw.

He tries to make Dorothea promise, if he should die, to forever “avoid doing what I should deprecate, and apply yourself to do what I should desire“.

She is hesitant to agree, and he dies before she can reply.

Casaubon‘s will is revealed to contain a provision that, if Dorothea marries Ladislaw, she will lose her inheritance.

The peculiar nature of the condition leads to general suspicion that Ladislaw and Dorothea are lovers, creating awkwardness between the two.

Ladislaw is in love with Dorothea but keeps this secret, having no desire to involve her in scandal or cause her disinheritance.

She meanwhile realises she has romantic feelings for him, but must suppress them.

He remains in Middlemarch, working as a newspaper editor for Mr. Brooke, who is mounting a campaign to run for Parliament on a Reform platform.

Lydgate‘s efforts to please Rosamond soon leave him deeply in debt and he is forced to seek help from Bulstrode.

He is partly sustained in this by a friendship with Camden Farebrother.

Meanwhile, Fred Vincy‘s humiliation at being responsible for Caleb Garth‘s financial setbacks shocks him into reassessing his life.

He resolves to train as a land agent under the forgiving Caleb.

He asks Farebrother to plead his case to Mary Garth, not realizing that Farebrother is also in love with her.

Farebrother does so, thereby sacrificing his own desires for the sake of Mary, who he realises truly loves Fred and is just waiting for him to find his place in the world.

John Raffles, a mysterious man who knows of Bulstrode‘s shady past, appears in Middlemarch, intending to blackmail him.

In his youth, the church-going Bulstrode engaged in questionable financial dealings.

His fortune is founded on his marriage to a wealthy, much older widow.

The widow’s daughter, who should have inherited her mother’s fortune, had run away.

Bulstrode located her but failed to disclose this to the widow, so that he inherited the fortune in lieu of her daughter.

The widow’s daughter had a son, who turns out to be Ladislaw.

On grasping their connection, Bulstrode is consumed with guilt and offers Ladislaw a large sum of money, which Ladislaw refuses as being tainted.

Bulstrode‘s terror of public exposure as a hypocrite leads him to hasten the death of the mortally sick Raffles, while lending a large sum to Lydgate, whom Bulstrode had previously refused to bail out of his debt.

However, the story of Bulstrode‘s misdeeds has already spread.

Bulstrode‘s disgrace engulfs Lydgate:

Knowledge of the loan spreads and he is assumed to be complicit with Bulstrode.

Only Dorothea and Farebrother retain any faith in him, but Lydgate and Rosamond are still encouraged to leave Middlemarch by the general opprobrium.

Disgraced and reviled, Bulstrode‘s one consolation is that his wife stands by him as he too faces exile.

When Mr Brooke‘s election campaign collapses, Ladislaw decides to leave the town and visits Dorothea to say his farewell, but Dorothea has fallen in love with him.

She renounces Casaubon‘s fortune and shocks her family by announcing that she will marry Ladislaw.

At the same time, Fred, having been successful in his new career, marries Mary.

The “Finale” details the ultimate fortunes of the main characters.

Fred and Mary marry and live contentedly with their three sons.

Lydgate operates a successful practice outside Middlemarch and attains a good income, but never finds fulfilment and dies at the age of 50, leaving Rosamond and four children.

After he dies, Rosamond marries a wealthy physician.

Ladislaw engages in public reform, and Dorothea is content as a wife and mother to their two children.

Their son eventually inherits Arthur Brooke‘s estate.

The action of Middlemarch takes place “between September 1829 and May 1832“, or 40 years before its publication in 1872, a gap not so pronounced for it to be regularly labelled as a historical novel.

By comparison, Walter Scott’s Waverley (1814) – often seen as the first major historical novel – takes place some 60 years before it appears.

Above: Walter Scott (1769 – 1830)

Eliot had previously written a more obviously historical novel, Romola (1863), set in 15th-century Florence.

Above: Plaque in Florence on the residence of George Eliot at the time of writing Romola

The critics Kathleen Blake and Michael York Mason argue that there has been insufficient attention given to Middlemarch “as a historical novel that evokes the past in relation to the present“.

The critic Rosemary Ashton notes that the lack of attention to this side of the novel may indicate its merits:

Middlemarch is that very rare thing, a successful historical novel.

In fact, it is so successful that we scarcely think of it in terms of that subgenre of fiction.

For its contemporary readers, the present “was the passage of the Second Reform Act in 1867“, the agitation for the Reform Act of 1832 and its turbulent passage through the two Houses of Parliament, which provide the structure of the novel, would have been seen as the past.

Above: Cartoon of Benjamin Disraeli (1804 – 1881) outpacing William Gladstone (1809 – 1898)

Though rarely categorised as a historical novel, Middlemarch‘s attention to historical detail has been noticed: In an 1873 review, Henry James recognised that Eliot’s “purpose was to be a generous rural historian“.

Elsewhere, Eliot has been seen to adopt “the role of imaginative historian, even scientific investigator in Middlemarch and her narrator as conscious “of the historiographical questions involved in writing a social and political history of provincial life”.

This critic compares the novel to “a work of the ancient Greek historian Herodotus“, who is often described as “the father of history“.

Above: Roman bust of Herodotus (484 – 425 BCE)

The fictional town of Middlemarch, North Loamshire, is probably based on Coventry, where Eliot had lived before moving to London.

Like Coventry, Middlemarch is described as a silk-ribbon manufacturing town.

The subtitle — “A Study of Provincial Life” — has been seen as significant.

One critic views the unity of Middlemarch as achieved through “the fusion of the two senses ofprovincial'”

On the one hand it means geographically “all parts of the country except the capital“.

On the other, a person who is “unsophisticated” or “narrow-minded“.

Above: Modern Coventry, England

Above: Statue of George Eliot, Coventry

Central to Middlemarch is the idea that Dorothea Brooke cannot hope to achieve the heroic stature of a figure like Saint Theresa, for Eliot’s heroine lives at the wrong time, “amidst the conditions of an imperfect social state, in which great feelings will often take the aspect of error, and great faith the aspect of illusion“.

Theresa’s passionate, ideal nature demanded an epic life.

Many a Theresa has been born who found for themselves no epic life wherein there was a constant unfolding of far-resonant action.

Perhaps only a life of mistakes, the offspring of a certain spiritual grandeur ill-matched with the meanness of opportunity.

Perhaps a tragic failure which found no sacred poet and sank unwept into oblivion.

With dim lights and tangled circumstance they tried to shape their thought and deed in noble agreement, but, after all, to common eyes, their struggles seemed mere inconsistency and formlessness.

For these were helped by no coherent social faith and order which could perform the function of knowledge for the ardently willing soul.

Their ardor alternated between a vague ideal and common yearning…..

Some have felt their blundering lives are due to the inconvenient indefiniteness with which the Supreme Power has fashioned natures…..

Here and there is born a Saint Theresa, foundress of nothing, whose loving heartbeats and sobs after an unattained goodness tremble off and are dispersed among hindrances, instead of centring in on some long-recognizable deed.

George Eliot, Middlemarch

Above: Teresa of Ávila (1515 – 1582)

Antigone, a figure from Greek mythology best known from Sophocles’ play, is given in the “Finale” as a further example of a heroic woman.

Above: Antigone in front of the dead Polynices, Nikiforos Lytras, 1865

Above: Bust of Sophocles (497 – 405 BCE), Pushkin Museum, Moscow, Russia

The literary critic Kathleen Blake notes Eliot’s emphasis on St Theresa’s “very concrete accomplishment, the reform of a religious order“, rather than her Christian mysticism.

A frequent criticism by feminist critics is that not only is Dorothea less heroic than Saint Theresa and Antigone, but George Eliot herself.

In response, Ruth Yeazell and Kathleen Blake chide these critics for “expecting literary pictures of a strong woman succeeding in a period [around 1830] that did not make them likely in life“.

Eliot has also been criticized more widely for ending the novel with Dorothea marrying Will Ladislaw, someone so clearly her inferior. 

The novelist Henry James describes Ladislaw as a dilettante who “has not the concentrated fervour essential in the man chosen by so nobly strenuous a heroine“.

Marriage is one of the major themes in Middlemarch.

According to George Steiner, “both principal plots [those of Dorothea and Lydgate] are case studies of unsuccessful marriage“.

This suggests that these “disastrous marriages” leave the lives of Dorothea and Lydgate unfulfilled.

This is arguably more the case with Lydgate than with Dorothea, who gains a second chance through her later marriage to Will Ladislaw, but a favourable interpretation of this marriage depends on the character of Ladislaw himself, whom numerous critics have viewed as Dorothea‘s inferior.

In addition, there is the “meaningless and blissful” marriage of Dorothea‘s sister Celia Brooke to Sir James Chettam, and more significantly Fred Vincy‘s courting of Mary Garth.

In the latter, Mary Garth will not accept Fred until he abandons the Church and settles on a more suitable career.

Above: George Steiner (1929 – 2020)

Here Fred resembles Henry Fielding’s character Tom Jones, both being moulded into a good husband by the love they give to and receive from a woman.

Above: Henry Fielding (1707 – 1754)

Dorothea is a St Theresa, born in the wrong century, in provincial Middlemarch, who mistakes in her idealistic ardor, “a poor dry mummified pedant… as a sort of angel of vocation“.

Middlemarch is in part a Bildungsroman focusing on the psychological or moral growth of the protagonist:

Dorotheablindly gropes forward, making mistakes in her sometimes foolish, often egotistical, but also admirably idealistic attempt to find a role” or vocation that fulfils her nature. 

Lydgate is equally mistaken in his choice of a partner, as his idea of a perfect wife is someone “who can sing and play the piano and provide a soft cushion for her husband to rest after work“.

So he marries Rosamond Vincy, “the woman in the novel who most contrasts with Dorothea“, and thereby “deteriorates from ardent researcher to fashionable doctor in London“.

Middlemarch, according to Henry James, was “at once one of the strongest and one of the weakest of English novels.

Middlemarch is a treasure-house of details, but it is an indifferent whole.”

Among the details, his greatest criticism (“the only eminent failure in the book“) was of the character of Ladislaw, who he felt was an insubstantial hero-figure as against Lydgate.

The scenes between Lydgate and Rosamond he especially praised for their psychological depth – he doubted whether there were any scenes “more powerfully real or intelligent” in all English fiction.

Above: Henry James (1843 – 1916)

Thérèse Bentzon, for the Revue des deux Mondes, was critical of Middlemarch.

Although finding merit in certain scenes and qualities, she faulted its structure as “made up of a succession of unconnected chapters, following each other at random.

The final effect is one of an incoherence which nothing can justify.”

In her view, Eliot’s prioritisation of “observation rather than imagination… inexorable analysis rather than sensibility, passion or fantasy” means that she should not be held amongst the first ranks of novelists.

Above: Marie-Thérèse de Solms-Blanc (aka Thérèse Bentzon) (1840 – 1907)

The German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche, who read Middlemarch in a translation owned by his mother and sister, derided the novel for construing suffering as a means of expiating the debt of sin, which he found characteristic of “little moralistic females à la Eliot“.

Above: Friedrich Nietzsche (1844 – 1900)

Despite the divided contemporary response, Middlemarch gained immediate admirers:

In 1873, the poet Emily Dickinson expressed high praise for the novel, exclaiming in a letter to a friend: 

What do I think of ‘Middlemarch’?”

What do I think of glory – except that in a few instances this “mortal has already put on immortality.”

George Eliot was one.

The mysteries of human nature surpass the “mysteries of redemption,” for the infinite we only suppose, while we see the finite.

Emily Dickinson, Letter to her cousins Louise and Fannie Norcross

Above: Emily Dickinson (1830 – 1886)

In separate centuries, Florence Nightingale and Kate Millett remarked on the eventual subordination of Dorothea‘s own dreams to those of her admirer, Ladislaw.

Indeed, the ending acknowledges this and mentions how unfavourable social conditions prevented her from fulfilling her potential.

Above: Florence Nightingale (1820 – 1910)

Above: Kate Millett (1934 – 2017)

In the first half of the 20th century, Middlemarch continued to provoke contrasting responses.

Leslie Stephen dismissed the novel in 1902:

The immediate success of Middlemarch may have been proportioned rather to the author’s reputation than to its intrinsic merits.

The novel seems to fall short of the great masterpieces which imply a closer contact with the world of realities and less preoccupation with certain speculative doctrines.

Above: Leslie Stephen (1832 – 1904)

His daughter Virginia Woolf described it in 1919 as “the magnificent book that, with all its imperfections, is one of the few English novels written for grown-up people.”

However, Woolf was “virtually unique” among the modernists in her unstinting praise for Middlemarch.

The novel also remained overlooked by the reading public of the time.

Above: Virginia Woolf (1882 – 1941)

F. R. Leavis’ The Great Tradition (1948) is credited with having “rediscovered” the novel:

The necessary part of great intellectual powers in such a success as Middlemarch is obvious … the sheer informedness about society, its mechanisms, the ways in which people of different classes live … a novelist whose genius manifests itself in a profound analysis of the individual.”

Leavis’ appraisal of it has been hailed as the beginning of a critical consensus that still exists towards the novel, in which it is recognised not only as Eliot’s finest work, but as one of the greatest novels in English. 

Above: Frank Raymond Leavis (1895 – 1978)

V. S. Pritchett, in The Living Novel, two years earlier, in 1946 had written that:

No Victorian novel approaches Middlemarch in its width of reference, its intellectual power, or the imperturbable spaciousness of its narrative.

I doubt if any Victorian novelist has as much to teach the modern novelists as George Eliot …

No writer has ever represented the ambiguities of moral choice so fully”.

Above: Victor Sawdon Pritchett (1900 – 1997)

In the 21st century, the novel is still held in high regard.

The novelists Martin Amis and Julian Barnes have both called it probably the greatest novel in the English language.

Above: Martin Amis

Above: Julian Barnes

Today Middlemarch is frequently included in university courses.

In 2013, the then British Education Secretary Michael Gove referred to Middlemarch in a speech, suggesting its superiority to Stephenie Meyer’s vampire novel Twilight.

Gove’s comments led to debate on teaching Middlemarch in Britain, including the question of when novels like Middlemarch should be read, and the role of canonical texts in teaching.

Above: Michael Gove

The novel has remained a favourite with readers and scores high in reader rankings:

In 2003, it was #27 in the BBC’s The Big Read.

In 2007, it was #10 in “The 10 Greatest Books of All Time“, based on a ballot of 125 selected writers.

In 2015, in a BBC Culture poll of book critics outside the UK, the novel was ranked at #1 in “The 100 greatest British novels“.

On 5 November 2019, BBC News reported that Middlemarch is on the BBC list of 100 “most inspiring” novels.

Above: Logo of the British Broadcasting Corporation

Middlemarch has been adapted several times for television and the stage.

In 1968, it appeared as a BBC-produced TV mini-series of the same name, directed by Joan Craft, starring Michele Dotrice.

The first episode, “Dorothea“, is missing from the BBC Archives, while the third episode, “The New Doctor“, can be viewed online, although only as a low-quality black and white telerecording owned by a private collector.

The other five episodes have been withheld from public viewing.

Above: Michele Dotrice

In 1994 it was again adapted by the BBC as a TV series of the same name, directed by Anthony Page with a screenplay by Andrew Davies.

This was a critical and financial success and revived public interest adapting the classics.

In 2013 came a stage adaptation, and also an Orange Tree Theatre Repertory production adapted and directed by Geoffrey Beevers as three plays: Dorothea’s StoryThe Doctor’s Story, and Fred & Mary.

The novel has never been made into a film, although the idea was toyed with by the English director Sam Mendes.

Above: Sam Mendes

In April 2022, Dash Arts produced The Great Middlemarch Mystery, an immersive theatre experience staged across three locations in Coventry, including Drapers Hall.

Above: Drapers Hall, Coventry

The opera Middlemarch in Spring by Allen Shearer, to a libretto by Claudia Stevens, has a cast of six and treats only the central story of Dorothea Brooke.

It was first staged in San Francisco in 2015.

In 2017, a modern adaptation, Middlemarch: The Series, aired on YouTube as a video blog.

Lyrics for the song “How Soon Is Now?” by The Smiths were taken from Middlemarch

I am the son
And the heir
Of a shyness that is criminally vulgar
I am the son and heir
Of nothing in particular

You shut your mouth
How can you say
I go about things the wrong way?
I am human and I need to be loved
Just like everybody else does

I am the son
And the heir
Of a shyness that is criminally vulgar
I am the son and heir
Of nothing in particular

You shut your mouth
How can you say
I go about things the wrong way?
I am human and I need to be loved
Just like everybody else does

There’s a club if you’d like to go
You could meet somebody who really loves you
So you go and you stand on your own
And you leave on your own
And you go home and you cry
And you want to die

When you say it’s gonna happen now
When exactly do you mean?
See I’ve already waited too long
And all my hope is gone

You shut your mouth
How can you say
I go about things the wrong way?
I am human and I need to be loved
Just like everybody else does

The plot of Indiana:

Indiana is the story’s heroine, a young noblewoman descended from French colonial settlers from Île Bourbon (now Réunion) and currently living in France.

Indiana is married to an older ex-army officer named Colonel Delmare and suffers from a variety of unknown illnesses, presumably due to the lack of passion in her life.

Indiana does not love Delmare and searches for someone who will love her passionately.

She overlooks her cousin Ralph, who lives with her and the colonel.

As it turns out, Ralph is in love with Indiana.

When their young, handsome, and well-spoken neighbor, Raymon de Ramiere, declares his interest to Indiana, she falls in love with him.

Raymon has already seduced Indiana‘s maid, Noun, who is pregnant with his child.

When Noun finds out what is going on, she drowns herself.

Indiana‘s husband decides that they will move to Île Bourbon.

Indiana escapes the house to faithfully present herself in Raymon‘s apartments in the middle of the night, expecting him to accept her as his mistress in spite of society’s inevitable condemnation.

He at first attempts to seduce her but, on failing, rejects her once and for all.

He cannot bear the thought that her will is stronger than his and writes her a letter intended to make her fall in love with him again, even though he has no intention of requiting this love.

Indiana has moved to the Island with the Colonel by the time she reads the letter.

She resists the letter but finally returns to France on a perilous sea journey.

When she arrives in Paris, the French Revolution of 1830 is taking place.

In the meantime, Raymon has made an advantageous marriage and bought Indiana’s house, where he and his wife live.

The stoic and remote Sir Ralph, whom Indiana has always seen as an ‘égoiste‘, suddenly comes to rescue her and tell her that Colonel Delmare has died from a fever.

Indiana and Ralph decide to commit suicide together by jumping into a waterfall on the Île Bourbon.

But on the way home, they fall in love.

Just before the suicide, they declare their love for one another and pledge that they will be married in Heaven.

At the end of the novel comes a conclusion, a young adventurer’s account of finding a man and woman, Ralph and Indiana, living on an isolated farm on the Island.

The novel deals with many typical 19th century novelistic themes.

These include adultery, social constraint, and unfulfilled longing for romantic love.

The novel is an exploration of 19th century female desire complicated by class constraints and by social codes about infidelity.

In another sense, the novel critiques the laws around women’s equality in France.

Indiana cannot leave her husband, Colonel Delmare, because she lacks the protection of the law:

Under the Napoleonic Code, women could not obtain property, claim ownership of their children, or divorce.

Finally, the novel touches on the subordination of the colonies to the French Empire.

Sand’s first literary efforts were collaborations with the writer Jules Sandeau.

They published several stories together, signing them Jules Sand.

Sand’s first published novel Rose et Blanche (1831) was written in collaboration with Sandeau. 

She subsequently adopted, for her first independent novel, Indiana (1832), the pen name that made her famous – George Sand.

Sand was the most popular writer (of any gender) in Europe by the age of 27, more popular than both Victor Hugo and Honoré de Balzac in England in the 1830s and 1840s.

Above: George Sand

She remained immensely popular as a writer throughout her lifetime and long after her death.

Early in her career, her work was in high demand.

By 1836, the first of several compendia of her writings was published in 24 volumes.

In total, four separate editions of her “Complete Works” were published during her lifetime.

In 1880, her children sold the rights to her literary estate for 125,000 francs (equivalent to 36 kg worth of gold, or $1.3 million dollars in 2015).

Drawing from her childhood experiences of the countryside, Sand wrote the pastoral novels La Mare au Diable (1846), François le Champi (1847–1848), La Petite Fadette (1849), and Les Beaux Messieurs de Bois Doré (1857). 

A Winter in Majorca described the period that she and Chopin spent on that island from 1838 to 1839.

Sand spent the winter of 1838–1839 with Frédéric Chopin in Mallorca at the (formerly abandoned) Carthusian monastery of Valldemossa.

The trip to Mallorca was described in her Un hiver à Majorque, first published in 1841.

Chopin was already ill with incipient tuberculosis at the beginning of their relationship, and spending a cold and wet winter in Mallorca where they could not get proper lodgings exacerbated his symptoms.

Above: Valldemossa, Mallorca, Spain

Sand and Chopin also spent many long summers at Sand’s country manor in Nohant (1839 – 1846, excepting 1840). 

There, Chopin wrote many of his most famous works, including the Fantasie in F Minor Opus 49, Piano Sonata No. 3 Opus 58, and the Ballade No. 3 Opus 47.

Above: George Sand House, Nohant, France

In her novel Lucrezia Floriani, Sand used Chopin as a model for a sickly Eastern European prince named Karol.

He is cared for by a middle-aged actress past her prime, Lucrezia, who suffers a great deal through her affection for Karol

Though Sand claimed not to have made a cartoon out of Chopin, the book’s publication and widespread readership may have exacerbated their later antipathy towards each other.

After Chopin’s death, Sand burned much of their correspondence, leaving only four surviving letters between the two.

Three of the letters were published in the “Classiques Garnier” series in 1968.

Above: Grave of Frédéric Chopin, Père Lachaise cemetery, Paris, France

Another breach was caused by Chopin’s attitude toward Sand’s daughter, Solange.

Chopin continued to be cordial to Solange after Solange and her husband Auguste Clésinger had a falling out with Sand over money.

Sand took Chopin’s support of Solange to be extremely disloyal, and confirmation that Chopin had always “loved” Solange.

Above: Solange Dudevant- Clésinger (1828 – 1899)

Sand’s son Maurice also disliked Chopin.

Maurice wanted to establish himself as the “man of the estate” and did not wish to have Chopin as a rival.

Maurice removed two sentences from a letter Sand wrote to Chopin when he published it because he felt that Sand was too affectionate toward Chopin and Solange.

Above: Jean-François-Maurice-Arnauld Dudevant (aka Maurice Sand) (1823 – 1889)

They separated two years before his death for a variety of reasons.

Chopin was never asked back to Nohant.

In 1848, he returned to Paris from a tour of the United Kingdom, to die at the Place Vendôme in 1849.

George Sand was notably absent from his funeral.

Above: Funerary monument on a pillar in Holy Cross Church, Warsaw, Poland, enclosing Chopin’s heart

Her other novels include Indiana (1832), Lélia (1833), Mauprat (1837), Le Compagnon du Tour de France (1840), Consuelo (1843), and Le Meunier d’Angibault (1845).

Theatre pieces and autobiographical pieces include Histoire de ma vie (1855), Elle et Lui (1859, about her affair with Musset), Journal Intime (posthumously published in 1926), and Correspondence.

Sand often performed her theatrical works in her small private theatre at the Nohant estate.

Sand’s writing was immensely popular during her lifetime and she was highly respected by the literary and cultural elite in France. 

Victor Hugo, in the eulogy he gave at her funeral, said:

The lyre was within her.

In this country whose law is to complete the French Revolution and begin that of the equality of the sexes, being a part of the equality of men, a great woman was needed.

It was necessary to prove that a woman could have all the manly gifts without losing any of her angelic qualities, be strong without ceasing to be tender.

George Sand proved it.

George Sand was an idea.

She has a unique place in our age.”

Above: Victor Hugo (1802 – 1885)

Sand also wrote literary criticism and political texts.

In her early life, she sided with the poor and working class as well as women’s rights.

When the 1848 Revolution began, she was an ardent republican.

Sand started her own newspaper, published in a workers’ cooperative.

Politically, she became very active after 1841.

Leaders of the day often consulted with her and took her advice.

She was a member of the provisional government of 1848, issuing a series of fiery manifestos.

Above: Lamartine in front of the Town Hall of Paris rejects the red flag on 25 February 1848

While many Republicans were imprisoned or went to exile after Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte’s coup d’état of December 1851, she remained in France, maintained an ambiguous relationship with the new regime, and negotiated pardons and reduced sentences for her friends.

Above: Louis Napoléon Bonaparte / Napoléon III (1808 – 1873)

Sand was known for her implication and writings during the Paris Commune of 1871, where she took a position for the Versailles assembly against the “communards“, urging them to take violent action against the “rebels”.

She was appalled by the violence of the Paris Commune, writing:

The horrible adventure continues.

They ransom, they threaten, they arrest, they judge.

They have taken over all the city halls, all the public establishments, they’re pillaging the munitions and the food supplies.

Above: A barricade thrown up by the Communard National Guard, 18 March 1871


Others are great men.

She was a great woman.

Victor Hugo

Sand was one of many notable 19th century women who chose to wear male attire in public.

In 1800, the police issued an order requiring women to apply for a permit in order to wear male clothing.

Some women applied for health, occupational, or recreational reasons (e.g., horse riding), but many women chose to wear pants and other traditional male attire in public without receiving a permit.

They did so as well for practical reasons, but also at times to subvert dominant stereotypes.

Above: Aurore Dupin meeting General Joachim Murat (1767 – 1815) in her uniform

Sand was one of the women who wore men’s clothing without a permit, justifying it as being less expensive and far sturdier than the typical dress of a noblewoman at the time.

In addition to being comfortable, Sand’s male attire enabled her to circulate more freely in Paris than most of her female contemporaries and gave her increased access to venues from which women were often barred, even women of her social standing.

Also scandalous was Sand’s smoking tobacco in public.

Neither peerage nor gentry had yet sanctioned the free indulgence of women in such a habit, especially in public.

While there were many contemporary critics of her comportment, many people accepted her behaviour until they became shocked with the subversive tone of her novels. 

Those who found her writing admirable were not bothered by her ambiguous or rebellious public behaviour.

Above: George Sand

Victor Hugo commented:

George Sand cannot determine whether she is male or female.

I entertain a high regard for all my colleagues, but it is not my place to decide whether she is my sister or my brother.”

Above: George Sand

Eugène Delacroix was a close friend and respected her literary gifts.

Above: Eugène Delacroix (1798 – 1863)

Flaubert, by no means an indulgent or forbearing critic, was an unabashed admirer. 

Above: Gustave Flaubert (1821 – 1880)

Honoré de Balzac, who knew Sand personally, once said that if someone thought she wrote badly, it was because their own standards of criticism were inadequate.

He also noted that her treatment of imagery in her works showed that her writing had an exceptional subtlety, having the ability to “virtually put the image in the word“. 

Above: Honoré de Balzac (1799 – 1850)

Alfred de Vigny referred to her as “Sappho“.

Above: Alfred de Vigny (1797 – 1863)

Above: Earliest representation of Sappho (630 – 570 BCE)

Not all of her contemporaries admired her or her writing:

Poet Charles Baudelaire was one contemporary critic of George Sand:

Above: Charles Baudelaire (1821 – 1867)

She is stupid, heavy and garrulous.

Her ideas on morals have the same depth of judgment and delicacy of feeling as those of janitresses and kept women….

The fact that there are men who could become enamoured of this slut is indeed a proof of the abasement of the men of this generation.

Above: George Sand as Mary Magdalene

In 1822, at the age of 18, Sand married Casimir Dudevant, an out-of-wedlock son of Baron Jean-François Dudevant.

She and Dudevant had two children: 

Maurice and Solange.

Above: Casimir Dudevant (1795 – 1871)

In 1825, she had an intense, but perhaps platonic, affair with the young lawyer Aurélien de Sèze.

Above: Aurélien de Sèze (1799 – 1870)

In early 1831, she left her husband and entered upon a four- or five-year period of “romantic rebellion“.

In 1835, she was legally separated from Dudevant and took custody of their children.

Sand had romantic affairs with:

  • novelist Jules Sandeau

Above: Jules Sandeau (1811 – 1883)

  • writer Prosper Mérimée

Above: Prosper Mérimée (1803 – 1870)

  • dramatist Alfred de Musset

Above: Alfred de Musset (1810 – 1857)

  • actor Pierre François Bocage

Above: Pierre Martinien Tousez (aka Bocage) (1799 – 1862)

  • writer Charles Didier

Above: Charles Didier (1805 – 1864)

  • novelist Félicien Mallefille

Above: Félicien Mallefille (1813 – 1868)

  • politician Louis Blanc

Above: Louis Blanc (1811 – 1862)

  • composer Frédéric Chopin

Above: Frédéric Chopin (1810 – 1849)

Later in her life, she corresponded with Gustave Flaubert.

Despite their differences in temperament and aesthetic preference, they eventually became close friends.

She engaged in an intimate romantic relationship with actress Marie Dorval.

Above: Marie Dorval (1798 – 1849)

Fyodor Dostoevsky “read widely in the numerous novels of George Sand” and translated her La dernière Aldini in 1844, but “discovered to his dismay that the work had already appeared in Russian“. 

In his mature period, he expressed an ambiguous attitude towards her.

Above: Fyodor Dostoevsky (1821 – 1881)

For instance, in his novella Notes from Underground, the narrator writes:

I launch off at that point into European, inexplicably lofty subtleties a la George Sand.

Above: First edition of Notes from Underground (in Russian), 1866

The English poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning wrote two poems:

  • To George Sand: A Desire
  • To George Sand: A Recognition

Above: Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806 – 1861)

The American poet Walt Whitman cited Sand’s novel Consuelo as a personal favorite, and the sequel to this novel, La Comtesse de Rudolstadt, contains at least a couple of passages that appear to have had a very direct influence on him.

Above: Walt Whitman (1819 – 1892)

In addition to her influences on English and Russian literature, Sand’s writing and political views informed numerous 19th century authors in Spain and Latin America, including Gertrudis Gómez de Avellaneda, the Cuban-born writer who also published and lived in Spain.

Critics have noted structural and thematic similarities between George Sand’s Indiana, published in 1832, and Gómez de Avellaneda’s anti-slavery novel Sab, published in 1841.

Above: Gertrudis Gómez de Avellaneda (1814 – 1873)

In the first episode of the “Overture” to Swann’s Way — the first novel in Marcel Proust’s In Search of Lost Time sequence — a young, distraught Marcel is calmed by his mother as she reads from François le Champi, a novel which (it is explained) was part of a gift from his grandmother, which also included La Mare au DiableLa Petite Fadette, and Les Maîtres Sonneurs.

As with many episodes involving art in À la recherche du temps perdu, this reminiscence includes commentary on the work.

Above: Marcel Proust (1871 – 1922)

Sand is also referred to in Virginia Woolf’s book-length essay A Room of One’s Own, along with George Eliot and Charlotte Brontë as:

All victims of inner strife as their writings prove, sought ineffectively to veil themselves by using the name of a man.

Above: Virginia Woolf (1882 – 1941)

Frequent literary references to George Sand can be found in Possession (1990) by A. S. Byatt and in the play Voyage, the first part of Tom Stoppard’s The Coast of Utopia trilogy (2002).

Above: Antonia Susan Byatt

Above: Tom Stoppard

George Sand makes an appearance in Isabel Allende’s Zorro, going still by her given name, as a young girl in love with Diego de la Vega (Zorro).

Above: Isabel Allende

Chopin, Sand and her children are the main characters of the theater play by Polish writer Jaroslaw Iwaszkiewicz “A Summer in Nohant“, which premiered in 1930.

The play, presenting the final stage of the writer-composer’s relationship, was adapted five times by Polish television:

  • in 1963 (with Antonina Gordon-Górecka as Sand and Gustaw Holoubek as Chopin)
  • in 1972 (with Halina Mikołajska and Leszek Herdegen)
  • in 1980 (with Anna Polony and Michał Pawlicki)
  • in 1999 (with Joanna Szczepkowska, who portrayed Solange in the 1980 version, and Piotr Skiba)
  • in 2021 (with Katarzyna Herman and Marek Kossakowski).

Above: Jarosław Iwaszkiewicz (1894 – 1980)

George Sand is portrayed by: 

  • Mèrle Oberon in A Song to Remember

  • Patricia Morison in Song Without End

  • Rosemary Harris in Notorious Woman (1974)

  • Judy Davis in James Lapine’s 1991 British-American film Impromptu

  • Juliette Binoche in the 1999 French film Children of the Century (Les Enfants du siècle)

  • in George Who? (George qui?), a 1973 French biographical film directed by Michèle Rosier and starring Anne Wiazemsky as Sand

  • in the 2002 Polish film Chopin: Desire for Love, directed by Jerzy Antczak, George Sand is portrayed by Danuta Stenka

If I become better known as Canada Slim and that name is equated with quality, then why would it be necessary for my work to bear the name on my birth certificate?

Changing George to Mary Ann or Amantine will neither enhance nor detract from the quality of their writing.

Frankly, I doubt the dead much care about our present sensitivities.

Feminism is about women liberating themselves – changing perceptions, laws, employment practices, and so on.

Feminism is easily the biggest movement in human history.

Women across all cultures and religions have suffered immeasurably for thousands of years and now are catching up.

Real gains have been made by women, but you cannot liberate only half of the human race.

The idea of liberating women from men assumes that men were somehow the winners in a power struggle and that power was what life was all about.

Feminism assumes that men are having a good time.

It is much more realistic to say that both men and women are trapped in a system which damages them both.

The way forward lies not in women fighting men but in women and men together fighting the ancient stupidities that have been bequeathed to them.

Consider the business and professional world.

Women have learned to compete on male terms.

They live like men, talk like men, exploit like men.

They inherit ulcers, heart attacks and children who hate them.

Welcome to the privileged world of men.

Any move to change the order of things which does not also address the fact that men are equally lost, trapped and miserable, will only create its own resistance.

Feminism elevates women from a long subservience.

It is important and must continue.

But most men have been subservient too – to a dehumanizing system that only grew worse with the advent of the industrial era.

Above: Charlie Chaplin (1889 – 1977), Modern Times (1936)

A woman, despite the strides and advances feminism has made, can still seek not to work if she is clever and attractive.

Life offers the human being two choices: animal existence – a lower order of life – and spiritual existence.

We have the same intellectual potential.

There is no primary difference in intelligence between the sexes.

I welcome women who seek to utilize their potential, their intelligence, ambition, industry and pertinacity, but that being said, what is the point of a man seeking the companionship of a woman, such as one of the two aforementioned Georges, if by sheer virtue of their gender a man must subject all of his potential to a woman who feels no guilt in abandoning him on a whim despite all that he may have done for her previously required?

From my reading of the histories of the two Georges and from the literature that these authors produced, it strikes me that they sought the freedom to do as they so chose with all the privileges that union with a man offered without the reciprocal responsibility that a relationship is supposed to infer.

We muse on the lives of these women, but we are curiously incurious as to the emotional distress they caused their men and children in the wake of their liberation.

Sand had a dozen lovers that we know of.

Eliot had an affair with a married man then later with a man significantly younger than herself.

Did they have the right to live their lives and love whomsoever they chose?

Certainly.

But at what cost to those who were intimate with them?

This remains unspoken.

In a bar in Toledo, across from the depot
On a barstool, she took off her ring
I thought I’d get closer, so I walked on over
I sat down and asked her name
When the drinks finally hit her, she said
I’m no quitter
But I finally quit livin’ on dreams
I’m hungry for laughter and here ever after
I’m after whatever the other life brings
.”
In the mirror, I saw him, and I closely watched him
I thought how he looked out of place
He came to the woman who sat there beside me
He had a strange look on his face
The big hands were calloused, he looked like a mountain
For a minute I thought I was dead
But he started shaking, his big heart was breaking
He turned to the woman and said
:

You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
With four hungry children and a crop in the field.
I’ve had some bad times, lived through some sad times,
But this time your hurting won’t heal.
You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
.”

After he left us, I ordered more whiskey
I thought how she’d made him look small.
From the lights of the barroom
To a rented hotel room
We walked without talking at all.
She was a beauty, but when she came to me,
She must have thought I’d lost my mind.
I couldn’t hold her, ’cause the words that he told her
Kept coming back time after time
:

You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
With four hungry children and a crop in the field
I’ve had some bad times, lived through some sad times
But this time your hurting won’t heal
You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
*

They chose to emulate male privilege but acted without male compulsion to guard the feelings of those with whom they were involved.

They hid behind male pseudonyms for their own profit and protection.

This does not diminish the power of the prose they created, but as their fame lay in the pen names they chose for themselves, I do not think a great service is done to the memory of their accomplishments should their works revert to their original feminine names nor a disservice done should their pen names remain to identify their works.

Let us praise a person not by virtue of their gender, but in spite of it.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Roger Axtel, Do’s and Taboos Around the World / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / George Eliot, Middlemarch / Alison Flood, “Female authors make debuts under their real names“, The Guardian, 12 August 2020 / George Sand, Indiana / Esther Vilar, The Manipulated Man

Canada Slim and the Palace of Pain

Eskişehir, Turkey, Sunday 29 May 2022

In my last post, after much struggling with both technology and a man cold, I wrote of my reasons for leaving Switzerland.

I began to draw parallels between my life and the lives of others, especially the life of deposed and exiled King Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden.

To fully comprehend the pain of exile and living far from the familiar, a prologue is needed that focuses on the life of Gustav’s wife Frederica.

Above: Queen Frederica of Sweden (1781 – 1826)

Frederica of Baden was born in Karlsruhe in the Grand Duchy of Baden on 12 March 1781, as the daughter of Karl Ludwig of Baden and Amalie of Hesse-Darmstadt.

Frederica, in her family known as Frick (Frique), was given a conventional and shallow education by a French-Swiss governess in Karlsruhe, and has been described as intellectually shallow.

Already as a child, she was described as a beauty, but she was also reported to have a weak constitution, having suffered from rheumatism from the age of two.

Above: Karlsruhe Palace, Germany

Because her maternal aunt Natalia Alexeievna had been the first spouse of Grand Duke Paul of Russia (later Emperor Paul I), Frederica and her sisters were early considered by Russian Empress Catherine the Great as future brides of her grandsons, Grand Duke Alexander of Russia (later Emperor Alexander) and Grand Duke Constantine of Russia.

In 1792, she and her sister Louise of Baden (later Empress Elizabeth Alexeievna of Russia) visited Empress Catherine in St. Petersburg.

The purpose was, unofficially, to be inspected as future brides.

Above: Empress Catherine II of Russia (1729 – 1796)

Her sister was chosen to marry Alexander.

Above: Empress Elisabeth Alexeievna of Russia (1779 – 1826)

Frederica returned to Baden in the autumn of 1793.

In October 1797, Frederica of Baden married King Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden.

The marriage had been arranged by Gustav IV Adolf himself, after he had refused to marry first Duchess Louise Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, since his desired marriage to Ebba Modée had been refused him, and second the Russian Grand Duchess Alexandra Pavlovna, because her proposed marriage contract would have allowed Alexandra to keep her Orthodox faith.

Above: Duchess Louise Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Schwerin (1779 – 1801)

Above: Ebba Modée (1775 – 1840) (left) and Count Axel Otto Mörner

Above: Archduchess / Palatina Alexander Pavlovna of Austria-Hungary (1783 – 1801)

Frederica of Baden was seen as a suitable choice:

Russia could not officially disapprove a new bride after the Russian Grand Duchess had been refused if the bride was the sister-in-law of Grand Duke Alexander, which indirectly preserved an alliance between Sweden and Russia. 

Additionally, Gustaf IV Adolf wanted a beautiful spouse and expected her to be so after having had a good impression of her sister during his visit to Russia the year prior. 

The King visited Erfurt to see her and her family himself in August 1797, the engagement was declared immediately after, and the first marriage ceremony conducted in October.

Above: Erfurt Cathedral, Germany

On 6 October 1797, Frederica of Baden was married per procura (Latin for “through the agency“, meaning that a person is signing a document on behalf of another person) to King Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden in Stralsund in Swedish Pomerania, with the Swedish negotiator Baron Evert Taube as proxy for the monarch.

Above: Stralsund, Germany

She left her mother and her sister Maria, who had accompanied her to Swedish Pomerania, and was escorted by Baron Taube by sea to Karlskrona in Sweden, where she was welcomed by the King.

Above: Modern Karlskrona, Sweden

The entourage continued to Drottingholm Palace, where she was introduced to the members of the royal house and court.

Finally, she made her official entrance in the capital.

The second wedding ceremony was conducted in the royal chapel on 31 October 1797.

She was sixteen years old.

Above: Drottingham Palace, Stockholm, Sweden

Queen Frederica was admired for her beauty but made a bad impression because of her shyness, which caused her to isolate herself and refrain from fulfilling her ceremonial duties.

She disliked society life and representation.

Her chief lady in waiting, Countess Hedda Piper, reportedly contributed to her isolation by claiming that etiquette banned the Queen from engaging in conversation unless introduced by her chief lady in waiting:

This was in fact incorrect, but it made the Queen dependent on Piper.

Above: Countess Hedda Piper (1746 – 1812)

Frederica found it difficult to adapt to court etiquette and protocol and isolated herself with her courtiers.

With the exception of her chief lady in waiting, Countess Piper, the King had appointed girls in about the same age as herself to be her courtiers, such as Aurora Wilhelmina Koskull, Fredrika von Kaulbars and Emilie De Geer, with whom she reportedly played children’s games.

She was treated with kindness by her mother-in-law, Sophia Magdalena of Denmark, who remembered how ill she herself had been treated by her own mother-in-law.

Above: Queen Sophia Magdalena of Sweden (1746 – 1813)

The relationship between Frederica and Gustav IV Adolf was initially not good.

Both being inexperienced, they reportedly had difficulty in connecting sexually, which frustrated the King and caused him to behave with impatient displeasure and suspicion toward her, which worsened the problems because of the shyness of the introvert Frederica.

This attracted attention when the King had the Queen’s favourite maid of honour exiled from court for impertinence, which also worsened the conflict. 

Above: Gustav IV Adolf and Queen Frederica of Sweden

The problems were however solved through the mediation of Duchess Charlotte.

For the rest of her marriage, Frederica was almost constantly pregnant.

This did not benefit the marriage from her point of view, as they were not sexually compatible:

The King, who had a strong sexual nature but disliked extramarital sex, was sometimes delayed for hours after “having entered the Queen’s bed chamber” in the morning, so much that the members of the royal council saw themselves obliged to interrupt and ask the King to “spare the Queen’s health“, while Frederica complained in letters to her mother how it tired and exhausted her without giving fulfillment.

Frederica was shocked and intrigued by the sexually liberal Swedish court, and wrote to her mother that she was likely the only woman there who did not have at least three or four lovers, and that the royal Duchess Charlotte were said to have both male and female lovers.

Above: Queen Charlotte of Sweden and Norway (1759 – 1818)

The relationship between the King and the Queen improved after the birth of their first child in 1799, after which they lived an intimate and harmonious family life, in which they grew close through their mutual interest in their children.

The King was reportedly protective toward her and guarded her sexual innocence.

In 1800, he had all her young maids of honor relieved from their positions because of their frivolous behaviour and replaced by older married ladies-in-waiting.

Six years later, when a frivolous play was performed by a French theatre company at the Royal Swedish Opera in the presence of the Queen, the King had the French theatre company exiled and the Opera closed down.

Above: Royal Swedish Opera, Stockholm

Queen Frederica was crowned with her spouse in Norrköping on 3 April 1800.

Above: Norrköping, Sweden, 1876

The royal couple did not participate much in representation and preferred an intimate family life in the small Haga Palace, where they isolated themselves from court life with but a small entourage.

Above: Haga Palace, Stockholm

Frederica amused the King by her skillful clavichord playing, was reportedly joyful in the company of her small circle of friends, especially in the absence of the monarch, and devoted herself to the upbringing of her children.

Above: A clavichord

She kept in close correspondence with her family, and, in 1801, welcomed her parents, who visited Sweden after having been in Russia to see her sister.

During this visit she was reportedly reproached by her mother for her stiff and distant behavior in public and not being able to make herself popular.

The visit ended unhappily as her father died due to an accident during the visit.

Above: Prince Karl Ludwig of Baden (1755 – 1801)

In 1802, Frederica accompanied her spouse to the province of Finland, during which a meeting was arranged between her (without the King) and her sisters, the Russian Empress Elizabeth and Amalie of Baden, in Abborrfors on the Russian border.

Above: Princess Amalie of Baden (1776 – 1823)

Above: Fort Svartholma, Abborrsfor, Finland

Gustav IV Adolf promised to visit her family in Baden, and in the summer of 1803, they travelled to Karlsruhe.

They did not return until February 1805, which created dislike in Sweden.

Frederica was blamed for the long absence of the monarch.

Above: Flag of the Grand Duchy of Baden

Frederica was not allowed to accompany the King when he left for Germany to participate in the War of the Fourth Coalition in November 1805, nor was she appointed to serve in the regency during his absence.

During his absence, however, she came to be regarded as a symbol of moral support.

Duchess Charlotte describes the dramatic scene when the Queen returned to the royal palace in Stockholm after having said goodbye to the King:

The members of government and the court of their majesties met her in the palace hall.

Crying bitterly she walked upstairs directly to the apartments of the children, where the members of the royal house was gathered.

Close to fainting, she could hardly breathe and fell down upon a couch.

There she lay with the handkerchief to her eyes, exposed to the deepest pain, surrounded by the children, who rushed to her, and the rest of us who, very concerned, tried to show her sympathy.

She truly gave the impression of already being a widow, especially since she was dressed in black.

I cannot describe the touching scene!

Add her youth and beauty, a beauty highlighted by the sorrow, and nothing was lacking to arouse the most fervent compassion for the poor Queen.”

During the rest of the King’s absence, she attracted public sympathy for isolating herself completely as a display of sorrow and longing after the King.

Above: Royal Palace, Stockholm

In the winter of 1806 – 1807, she joined the King in Malmö, where she hosted her sister Princess Marie of Baden, who was a refugee after having fled Napoleon’s conquest of the Duchy of Brunswick.

Above: Images of modern Malmö, Sweden

Above: Duchess Marie of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel (1782 – 1808)

Frederica had no direct influence on the affairs of state and did not seem to have been interested in them except when they affected her small circle of family and friends.

She was, however, indirectly involved in politics through her family and especially through her mother, who reportedly affected her spouse against French Emperor Napoleon.

In 1807, during the War of the Fourth Coalition, Frederica intervened politically.

Her sister, the Russian Empress, sent her a letter through their mother, that she should use her influence to advise the King to make peace with France, and that anything else would be a mistake.

She did make an attempt to accomplish this, but the King viewed it as an attempt to influence him in favor of Napoleon.

Her interference in the matter caused a conflict between the King and Queen. 

Above: French Emperor Napoleon I (1769 – 1821)

In one political issue, Frederica took an interest during her marriage an successfully enforced, though her reason was not political.

Already during the first years of heir marriage, the King often spoke of his wish to abdicate in favor of a simple family as a private person life abroad.

To this, Frederica always objected and did not hesitate to enforce her opinion even when it led to arguments, but her foremost reason to this was reportedly that if her spouse abdicated, it would result in them having to leave their son, who would be succeed his father, behind them.

On 12 March 1809, King Gustav IV Adolf left her and the children at Haga Palace to deal with the rebellion of Georg Adlersparre.

Above: Georg Adlersparre (1760 – 1835)

The next day, Gustav was captured at the Royal Palace in Stockholm, imprisoned at Gripsholm Castle and deposed in favour of his uncle, who succeeded him as Charles XIII of Sweden on 6 June.

King Gustav IV Adolf was forcibly deposed on Monday, 13 March 1809, when a group of officers entered his chamber and seized his sword.

After some confusion, the King managed to escape through a side door with one of the conspirators’ swords.

But he did not get far.

He was captured in the courtyard by Master of the Hunt von Greiff.

Above: Gustav IV Adolf’s arrest

Above: King Charles XIII of Sweden (1748 – 1818)

According to the terms of deposition made on 10 May 1809, she was allowed to keep the title of Queen even after the deposition of her spouse.

Frederica and her children were kept under guard at Haga Palace.

The royal couple was initially kept separated because the coup leaders suspected her of planning a coup.

During her house arrest, her dignified behavior reportedly earned her more sympathy than she had been given her entire tenure as Queen.

Her successor, Queen Charlotte, who felt sympathy for her and often visited her, and wished to preserve the right to the throne for Frederica’s son, Gustav.

Above: Prince Gustav of Vasa (1799 – 1877)

Frederica told her that she was willing to separate from her son for the sake of succession.

She requested to be reunited with her spouse.

Her second request was granted her after intervention from Queen Charlotte.

Frederica and her children joined Gustav Adolf at Gripsholm Castle after the coronation of the new monarch on 6 June.

The relationship between the former King and Queen was reportedly well during their house arrest at Gripsholm.

During her house arrest at Gripsholm Castle, the question of her son Crown Prince Gustav’s right to the throne was not yet settled and a matter of debate.

There was a plan by a military faction led by General Eberhard von Vegesack to free Frederica and her children from the arrest, have her son declared monarch and Frederica as regent of Sweden during his minority.

Above: Eberhard von Vegesack (1763 – 1818)

These plans were in fact presented to her, but she declined:

The Queen displayed a nobility in her feelings, which makes her worthy of a crown of honor and placed her above the pitiful earthly royalty.

She did not listen to the secret proposals, made to her by a party, who wished to preserve the succession of the crown prince and wished, that she would remain in Sweden to become the regent during the minority of her son.

She explained with firmness, that her duty as a wife and mother told her to share the exile with her husband and children.

The removal of her son from the succession order, however, she nevertheless regarded as a legally wrongful.

Above: Gripsholm Castle, Mariefred, Sweden

The family left Sweden via three separate carriages.

Gustav Adolf and Frederica travelled in one carriage, escorted by General Skjöldebrand.

Their son Gustav travelled in the second with Colonel Baron Posse.

Their daughters (Sophie, Amalia and Cecelia) and their governess Von Panhuys travelled in the last carriage escorted by Colonel von Otter.

Frederica was offered to be escorted with all honours due to a member of the House of Baden if she travelled alone, but declined and brought no courtier with her, only her German chamber maid Elisabeth Freidlein.

The family left for Germany by ship from Karlskrona on 6 December 1809.

After stopping in Copenhagen and then in Frankfurt, they were welcomed in Bruchsal.

Above: Images of modern Copenhagen, Denmark

Above: Modern Frankfurt am Main, Germany

The family settled at the castle in Baden where Frederica grew up. 

Above: Bruchsal Castle, Germany

They said goodbye to their Swedish entourage, General Anders Fredrik Skjöldenbrand and Baron von Otter, and kept only one doctor, a stablemaster and the son’s teachers as Swedes at their court. 

Above: General Anders Fredrik Skjöldenbrand (1757 – 1834)

Now, you may legitimately ask, gentle readers, what this story of a long dead Swedish royal couple and the lives of your humble blogger and his queen have in common.

In our mutual travels together, she and I have visited Stockholm and Gripsholm.

Above: Gripsholm Castle

I no longer recall how we came to be in Sweden on vacation, but I recall we flew to Jönköping Airport, rented a car and drove to Stockholm, visiting Gripsholm en route to the Swedish capital.

Above: Flag of Sweden

Gripsholm Castle appealed to my wife as she had read in earlier days Schloss Gripsholm. Eine Sommergeschichte (Gripsholm Palace: A Summer Story) is the title of a story by Kurt Tucholsky, published in 1931.

It is a love story with comic and melancholic elements, reminiscent of the author’s first novel, Rheinsberg: Ein Bilderbuch für Verliebte (Rheinsberg: A Picture Book for Lovers).

The book begins with a fictional correspondence of an author and his publisher, Ernst Rowohlt, with Rowohlt encouraging Tucholsky to write another light and cheerful love story, and Tucholsky replying that he could offer a summer story.

The following story covers a summer vacation of Kurt, called Peter and narrating in the first person, with his friend Lydia, called by him almost always “die Prinzessin” (the princess), in Sweden.

After train and ferry rides, they arrive at Gripsholm Palace where they spend around three weeks.

They are visited there by Kurt’s old friend Karlchen, and later Lydia’s best friend Billie.

The story in episodes includes an erotic scene of three, unusual at the end of Weimar Germany, but also the observation of a little girl suffering under a sadistic German woman running a children’s home.

They contact the child’s mother who lives in Switzerland and organise the girl’s trip back to there.

The dedication of the story is “für IA 47 407” which is the license plate of the car of Lisa Matthias in Berlin, who was Tucholsky’s partner from 1927 to 1931.

Above: Lisa Matthias

Above: Tucholsky and Lisa Matthias in Läggesta, Sweden (1929)

Kurt Tucholsky (1890 – 1935) was a German journalist, satirist and writer.

He also wrote under the pseudonyms Kaspar HauserPeter PanterTheobald Tiger and Ignaz Wrobel.

Above: German commemorative stamp on the 50th anniversary of his death

Tucholsky was one of the most important journalists of the Weimar Republic.

He was a politically engaged journalist and temporary co-editor of the weekly magazine Die Weltbühne.

He was simultaneously a satirist, an author of satirical political revues, a songwriter and a poet.

He saw himself as a left wing democrat and pacifist and warned against anti-democratic tendencies – above all in politics, the military – and the threat of National Socialism.

His fears were confirmed when the Nazis came to power in January 1933.

In May of that year he was among the authors whose works were banned as “un-German” and burned.

He was also among the first authors and intellectuals whose German citizenship was revoked.

Above: Flag of National Socialism (Nazis)

Tucholsky was Weimar Germany’s most controversial political and cultural commentator, who published over 2,000 essays, manifestos, poems, critiques, aphorisms, and stories.

In his writings, he hit hard at his main enemies in Germany, whom he identified as haughty aristocrats, bellicose army officers, brutal policemen, reactionary judges, anti-republican officials, hypocritical clergyman, tyrannical professors, dueling fraternity students, ruthless capitalists, philistine burghers, opportunistic Jewish businessmen, fascistic petty-bourgeois, Nazis, even peasants, whom he considered generally dumb and conservative.

He is admired as an unsurpassed master of satire, of the short character sketch, and of the Berlin jargon.

His literary works were translated to English, including the 1912 Rheinsberg and the 1931 “summer story” Schloss Gripsholm.

Above: Rheinsberg Castle, Brandenburg, Germany

At first he emigrated to Paris, but in 1929 he decided to move to Sweden.

Above: Paul Tucholsky, Paris, France, 1928

He lived in Läggesta, close to Gripsholm Palace, from April to October that year, but searched for a different permanent home.

Above: Tucholsky’s last residence, Villa Nedsjölund, Läggesta, Sweden

Tucholsky wrote in a letter to Alfred Stern that Gripsholm Castle had only a few autobiographical features.

Tucholsky died in 1935 and is buried close to Gripsholm Palace.

Above: Final resting place with the inscription – “Everything ephemeral is just a parable.

As well, when the wife and I both lived in Freiburg im Breisgau, we travelled to Bruchsal Palace.

Above: Bruchsal Castle

I have worked in both Basel and St. Gallen where the Swedish King would spend his final days of exile – cities both my wife and I are quite familiar with.

And Gustav’s desire for a simpler life is a sentiment with which I can sympathize.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Bruchsal Palace (Schloss Bruchsal), also called the Damiansburg, is a Baroque palace complex located in Bruchsal, Germany.

The complex is made up of over 50 buildings.

These include a three-winged residential building with an attached chapel, four pavilions separated by a road, some smaller utility buildings, and a garden.

It is noted for its fine Rococo decoration and in particular its entrance staircase, which is regarded as one of the finest examples of its kind in any Baroque palace.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

The Palace was built in the first half of the 18th century by Damian Hugo Philipp von Schönborn, Prince Bishop of Speyer.

Schönborn drew on family connections to recruit building staff and experts in the Baroque style, most notably Balthasar Neumann.

Although intended to be the permanent residence of the Prince-Bishops, they occupied it for less than a century.

Above: Damian Hugo Philipp von Schönborn (1676 – 1743)

As a result of the Coalition Wars, the Prince-Bishopric of Speyer and the neighboring Margraviate of Baden had been forced to cede their territory on the left bank of the Rhine to France. 

Per the Treaty of Campo Formio, Baden was to be compensated with new territory.

Baden was given seven times the amount of land it had lost, at the expense of Austria, of ecclesiastical states, such as the Prince-Bishopric of Speyer.

This concession was confirmed in February 1803 by the Reichsdeputationshauptschluss.

Baden was soon raised to a Grand Duchy.

Above: Flag of Baden

Baden’s ruler, Charles Frederick, summarily occupied Bruchsal and forced the departure of the last Prince Bishop, Philipp Franz von Walderdorf.

Charles Frederick dissolved the “Principality” of Speyer and removed much of Bruchsal Palace’s furnishings to Karlsruhe, though he awarded Walderdorf a pension of 200,000 guilders and allowed him to reside at Bruchsal in the winters.

Above: Karl Friedrich von Baden (1728 – 1811)

Leopold, Maria Anna and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart visited Bruchsal Palace in July 1763 to begin a tour up the Rhine River.

Above: Leopold Mozart (1719 – 1787)

Above: Maria Anna Mozart (née Lange) (1751 – 1829)

Above: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756 – 1791)

Leopold wrote of the Palace on 19 July:

“The Residence of Bruchsal is worth seeing, its rooms being in the very best taste, not numerous, but so noble, indescribably charming and precious.

Above: The north orangery, Bruchsal Palace

When Charles Frederick died, Walderdorf shared Bruchsal with the Grand Duke’s widow, Amalie of Hesse-Darmstadt with her unmarried daughter, Amalie Christiane von Baden, who had been replaced at court by Stéphanie de Beauharnais.

Amalie spent three to four months of every summer at the Palace, time she spent in a constant monotony that she often took vacations to escape.

Amalie’s household at Bruchsal and its upkeep was at her own expense.

Above: Amalie von Hessen-Darmstadt (1754 – 1832)

The early 19th century traveller Charles Edward Dodd, who visited the Palace around 1818, described its “deserted splendour” wherein “the gay ladies of Princess Amalie’s court complain bitterly of its magnificent dreariness“.

Two other contemporary visitors, Frederick William III of Prussia and the Russian empress Elizabeth Alexeievna, also noted the droll state of Bruchsal Palace.

Above: Frederick William III, King of Prussia (1770 – 1840)

Above: Empress Elisabeth Alexeievna of Russia (1779 – 1826)

Bruchsal’s citizenry adored Amalie, though, and mourned her death on 27 July 1832.

Above: Coat of arms of Bruchsal

Following Amalie von Baden’s death, Bruchsal Palace was used for myriad purposes while it steadily deteriorated.

After the death of the late royal inhabitant of the palace in 1832, the fate of Bruchsal Palace remained uncertain for a long time.

The state of Baden searched for new ways to use it for a long time:

Could it be apartments for future teachers or for a French nobleman?

Above: Bruchsal Palace

In 1849, during the Baden Revolution, the ground floor of the corps de logis was used for a barracks and later a military hospital for Prussian soldiers.

Above: Battle of Kandern, Baden Revolution, 20 April 1848

In 1869, two years before the Palace vanished from guide books in Germany, the Grand Duchy of Baden’s Ministry of the Interior made plans to move a Catholic seminary into the Palace.

A major renovation was planned to fit the school, but were short lived.

Above: Flag of the Grand Duchy of Baden

In 1869, Baden’s minister of the interior wanted to move the Catholic teacher’s academy in Ettlingen to Bruchsal Palace.

Extensive renovations were planned: interior walls added in the great hall to create apartments, toilets installed in the prince-bishop’s palace church and in the Watteau Cabinet, a room with red paneling and paintings in the style of the artist Antoine Watteau.

At some point, the plans were thrown out —

Luckily, from today’s point of view.

Above: 1870 photograph of the palace interior – Page room, Watteau Cabinet and bedroom

Not found in any travel guide, the Palace lies unknown and unvisited in a small city…, was written about Bruchsal Palace in a photo map from 1871.

After the death of Margravine Amalie von Baden, the Palace has rarely used for royal purposes instead being used as offices and military headquarters.

The plaster on the facades crumbled.

The importance of the Palace as a significant monument to architecture and art was slowly recognized.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

A decade later in 1880, the court jeweler of the Landgrave of Hesse wrote to the Baden government on behalf of the Vicomte de Montfort, a Parisian aristocrat.

The Würtzburg court jeweler of the Landgrave of Hessen wrote on behalf of Vicomte de Montfort.

Above: Coat of arms of Hesse

The wealthy nobleman from Paris wanted to buy, renovate, and permanently live in Bruchsal Palace.

If necessary, he would have been satisfied with just the most magnificent part: the central building with the courtyard and garden.

He would have liked to purchase at least some furniture, mirrors, or tapestries to create a building in the style of Bruchsal Palace.

After some discussion, the request was declined.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

Beginning at this time, hundreds of high-quality photographs were made of the Palace’s interiors.

A restoration of the palace grounds was carried out at Bruchsal from 1900 to 1909 under the direction of German art historian Fritz Hirsch.

Above: Fritz Hirsch (1871 – 1938), with wife Anna and son Peter

The Grand Duchy of Baden was dissolved on 9 November 1918, followed by Grand Duke Frederick II’s abdication on 22 November.

Above: Grand Duke Friedrich II of Baden (1857 – 1928)

The bel étage was opened to the public as a permanent exhibit of the palace’s treasures in the 1920s.

Above: Bel étage, Bruchsal Palace

On 1 March 1945, only two months before the end of the Second World War, much of the palace was destroyed in an American air raid directed against nearby railway installations.

The 379th Expeditionary Operations Group attacked and destroyed the city’s marshalling yard. 

Above: Logo of the US Army Air Corps (1941 – 1947)

80% of the city was destroyed, as was Bruchsal Palace, incinerated to just the staircase and some of the façade.

Above: Ruins of Bruchsal Palace, 1945

After the end of the War, the first task was to create emergency lodging.

In 1946, work began on rebuilding the outbuildings to serve as offices and apartments.

For a long time, the ruins of the Palace’s central buildings remained unprotected.

It was more than a year before it received an emergency roof.

The consequence:

Rain and frost had damaged the complex.

Due to a danger of collapse, a portion of the remaining wall was completely demolished.

Thus, the Palace suffered further losses after the destruction.

Above: Ruins of Bruchsal Palace, 1945

Reconstruction, aided by the pictures taken in the late 19th century, began the next year with some of the minor buildings put back together to provide administrative offices and temporary housing. 

In 1947, work on the residential structure began in the Chamber Wing.

In the 1950s, the Chamber Music Hall, the church tower, and the shell of the palace’s central building were recreated.

Above: Chamber Music Hall, Bruchsal Palace

The next step was the interior, which posed the greatest challenge.

The wall and ceiling decorations were reconstructed in the most important rooms along the central axis.

The Domed Hall, Royal Hall, and Marble Hall were given their colorful frescoes and gilded stucco once again.

Above: Domed Hall, Bruchsal Palace

Above: Royal Hall, Bruchsal Palace

Above: Marble Hall, Bruchsal Palace

The shell of the corps de logis was rebuilt from 1953 to 1956, though conversely the church wing was demolished in 1959.

Above: Corps de logis, Bruchsal Palace

A stroke of luck:

Hundreds of photographs of the Palace taken between 1870 and 1945 had been preserved, some even in colour.

They served as a pattern for the reconstruction of the ceiling frescoes.

Above: Ceiling fresco, Bruchsal Palace

Instead of the apartments that once stood alongside the ceremonial halls on the second story, modern, open exhibition rooms were created for the Badisches Landesmuseum.

Above: Entry into the Badisches Landesmuseum (Baden State Museum), Bruchsal Palace

More than 1,000 square meters were reverted back to the old layout of the bel étage.

Modern technology was also installed to meet modern needs for heating, light and air conditioning.

The former Prince-Bishops’ apartment was then furnished according to old inventory lists and photographs.

Furniture, paintings, tapestries: more than 350 works of art from the bel étage were stored elsewhere during World War II.

They were carefully restored before once again being displayed in the bel étage.

In 1975, the Palace was reopened.

The reconstruction of the frescoes on the ground floor, the exterior areas, and the garden took until 1996.

Above: The Prince-Bishop’s private rooms

To commemorate the 50th anniversary of Franco-German friendship, French President François Mitterand and German Chancellor Helmut Kohl met at Bruchsal Palace on 12 November 1987.

Above: French President François Mitterand (1916 – 1996) / German Chancellor Helmut Kohl (1930 – 2017)

At a joint dinner at Bruchsal Palace, the heads of state discussed the past 25 years of German-French friendship.

In his speech, Helmut Kohl greeted the guests:

Ladies and gentlemen!

I am very happy to welcome you to Bruchsal Palace.

We meet tonight for the 50th time, because President de Gaulle and President Konrad Adenauer signed the treaty on German-French collaboration nearly 25 years ago.

Above: French President Charles de Gaulle (1890-1970)/German Chancellor Konrad Adenauer (1876-1967)

In mid-1981, François Mitterrand was elected President of France.

He discovered the increasing importance of European politics and worked with Federal Chancellor Helmut Kohl to develop the European Community into the European Union.

Above: The European Union (in green)

On 22 September 1984, Kohl and Mitterrand met at the site of the 1916 Battle of Verdun to jointly commemorate the dead of the two world wars.

The two politicians clasped hands for one minute to symbolize German and French reconciliation.

Above: Mitterand and Kohl, Verdun, France, 22 September 1984

The interiors have been partly restored and the Palace now houses two museums, the German Music Machine Museum, with its fascinating collection of self-playing instruments, and the Bruchsal City Museum.

Above: German Museum of Mechanical Musical Instruments, Bruchsal Palace

Above: Map of Bruchsal Palace

The entrance hall, or intrada, creates a lively first impression of the palace with its bright, illusionistic paintings.

The ceiling fresco has a moral, Christian motif:

The victory of the seven cardinal virtues over sin.

There were artificial grottoes in many Baroque gardens.

In Bruchsal Palace, a similar space was created in the interior.

Despite many openings to the staircase, the grotto is only dimly lit, creating the impression of a cave.

This type of space was intended to symbolize the earthly realm.

Plants, shells, fountains and river gods can be seen on the walls, references to the life-giving energy of water.

On the ceiling, the painting gives a view of what lies above, in a sky populated with birds. 

Above: Intrada, Bruchsal Palace

Many of the paintings on the ground floor, created by Giovanni Francesco Marchini, were reconstructed after World War II.

The stone benches along the walls are particularly lovely.

It is tempting to sit down on them, but they are only painted on the walls!

On the left wall, original remains of Marchini’s frescoes have been preserved: depictions of antique temple ruins, coloured red by the fire after the bombing in 1945.

Above : Ground floor, Bruchsal Palace

The wounds inflicted by World War II can be seen even more clearly in the Garden Hall:

The choice was made not to fully reconstruct these paintings.

After World War II, rain and frost damaged the unprotected ruins further.

On the ceiling of the hall, the layer of paint peeled off, allowing Marchini’s original sketches to become visible.

The destruction and reconstruction of Bruchsal Palace is documented in the permanent exhibition, “Built, Destroyed, Rebuilt” left of the Garden Hall.

Above: Ruins of Bruchsal Palace, 1945

On an oval floor plan, the two stairways swing up, allowing an open view down to the grotto.

With increasing height, the staircase grows brighter from the atria on the sides and from above.

The destination of the climb is impressive:

A large, painted cupola crowns the oval space, which also forms a bridge-like connection between the two ceremonial halls, the Royal Hall and the Marble Hall.

The grotto, stairs and the Domed Hall form a cohesive whole, a truly unique combination.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

The bel étage, the main residential storey of Bruchsal Palace, shows the artistic sense of the Prince-Bishops of Speyer:

Richly furnished ceremonial halls with impressive iconography and precious furniture and tapestries in the refurbished apartments.

Above: Bel étage, Bruchsal Palace

The Domed Hall crowns the staircase, which leads to the two ceremonial halls of the Palace.

A cycle of large ceiling paintings begins in the Domed Hall, at the end of the staircase.

Franz Christoph von Hutten and his predecessor, Damian Hugo von Schönborn, can be seen in the two primary scenes, presented as builders and patrons of art and architecture.

Above: Domed Hall, Bruchsal Palace

The Royal Hall is the ceremonial hall closest to the city.

The Royal Hall was one of the two ceremonial halls of the bel étage.

As in ancestral portrait galleries of worldly rulers, Hutten and his Prince-Bishop predecessors are on display, beginning with Eberhard von Dienheim, whose rule began in 1581.

The portraits refer to the tradition of rule by Prince-Bishop, which would only last 50 more years, ending with secularization in 1803.

The ceiling fresco was intended to express the “flourishing present” of the Prince-Bishopric of Speyer in all its facets.

Above: Royal Hall, Bruchsal Palace

The Marble Hall lies in the direction of the garden.

It is the architectural and programmatic center of the spiritual residence.

Magnificent columns, delicate stucco, marble, and gold: In the palace’s most ceremonial room, the Marble Hall, the Rococo style reaches a climax.

The room gets its name from the combination of real stone and stucco marble.

Countless gods and other figures populate the ceiling.

Again and again, they seek to halt time: the Prince-Bishopric shall last forever, they seem to say.

Above: Marble Hall, Bruchsal Palace

To the side of the Marble Hall closest to the garden, two representational apartments attach to the right and left.

They are almost identical in terms of the number of rooms and the quality of the décor.

This doubled sequence of staterooms was suited to a high-ranking imperial prince like the Prince-Bishop of Speyer.

Above: Coat of arms of the Prince-Bishop of Speyer

In the center of the reconstructed enfilade stand Bruchsal’s artistic treasures:

Precious tapestries, Roentgen furniture, magnificent writing desks and a unique set of Savonnerie carpets.

Above: Marble Hall, Bruchsal Palace

When important visitors were staying in the Palace, the master of the house left them the sumptuous northern apartment and moved into the more modest south wing.

However, the difference between the sequence of rooms was slight, as both state apartments had to appropriately represent the Prince-Bishop.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

The Yellow Room, the antechamber to the southern state apartment, holds what remains of the Rococo pieces that once decorated all the rooms.

The furniture on display from the workshop of Abraham Roentgen is some of the most precious furniture of the Palace.

Above: Cabinetmaker Abraham Roentgen (1711 – 1793)

The commodes and the game tables were part of a delivery of “seven pieces of wooden goods” to Prince-Bishop von Hutten in 1764.

Above: Prince-Bishop Franz Christoph von Hutten (1706 – 1770)

The tapestries hung here show scenes from the Old Testament.

They are among the oldest tapestries in Bruchsal Palace.

Above: Tapestry, Bruchsal Palace

When the Prince-Bishop lived in the southern apartment, the Red Room served as his audience chamber.

The paintings and furniture presented here escaped destruction in 1945 because they had been moved out in 1939.

Prince-Bishop Cardinal Franz Christoph von Hutten had himself magnificently represented in a portrait by Nikolaus Treu.

Clothed in purple, with the breast cross bestowed on him on his robe, von Hutten stands before Bruchsal Palace, while his page hands him his biretta.

Above: Hutten Portrait

The Green Room is the bedroom in the south apartment.

Even in the 18th century, it was already done up in shades of green: green varnish on the wood paneling, doors, and window frames, a pastel green ceiling, and wall panels covered with green damask.

The bed described in 1817, with a canopy and curtains made of damask, no longer exists.

Today, a reproduction bed stands in its place.

The original bed canopy and hangings of red silk are decorated with metallic embroidery.

Above: Green Room, Bruchsal Palace

The magnificent furnishings of the Watteau Cabinet were almost completely lost in World War II.

The pieces that have been preserved include a cast iron vase, which was discovered in the palace garden in 2014 and now stands in the cabinet once again.

Above: Watteau Cabinet, Bruchsal Palace

The “Veston tapestries” in the neighboring dressing room dominate the space with their colourful images of flowers and fruit.

Above: Tapestries, Bruchsal Palace

The Prince-Bishop’s chamber servants lived in the pages’ room next door.

Simple furniture characterizes this room.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

In the northern state apartment, the Prince-Bishop conducted the business of government and held audiences.

Above: Northern state apartment, Bel étage, Bruchsal Palace

The Hunting Room was both an antechamber and a dining hall.

Here, visitors and supplicants waited for an audience with the Prince-Bishop.

Stucco and wood carving that depicts motifs of hunting and fishing gave the room its name.

Today, four small paintings on the theme of hunting commemorate the former furnishings.

The walls are also decorated with tapestries from the “Grotesque series” created between 1685 and 1719.

On some tapestries, dancers, musicians, and an elephant driver can be seen.

Above: Hunting Pavilion, Bruchsal Palace

Cherubs playing music, twittering birds, and musical instruments made of stucco give the room its name.

It served as an additional antechamber to the throne room.

Above: Music Room, Bruchsal Palace

The overdoors with scenes from the legend of the Roman Gaius Mucius Scaevola, a reference to the knowledge of the literature of antiquity and virtues of Franz Christoph von Hutten, have been preserved.

Above: Matthias Stom, Mucius Scaevola in the Presence of Lars Porsenna

(Gaius Mucius Cordus, better known with his later cognomen Scaevola, was an ancient Roman youth, possibly mythical, famous for his bravery.

In 508 BCE, during the war between Rome and Clusium, the Clusian King Lars Porsena laid siege to Rome.

Gaius Mucius Cordus, with the approval of the Roman Senate, sneaked into the Etruscan camp with the intent of murdering Porsena.

Since it was the soldiers’ pay day, there were two similarly dressed people, one of whom was the King, on a raised platform speaking to the troops.

This caused Mucius to misidentify his target, and he killed Porsena’s scribe by mistake.

After being captured, he famously declared to Porsena:

I am Gaius Mucius, a citizen of Rome.

I came here as an enemy to kill my enemy, and I am as ready to die as I am to kill.

We Romans act bravely and, when adversity strikes, we suffer bravely.

He also declared that he was the first of 300 Roman youths to volunteer for the task of assassinating Porsena at the risk of losing their own lives.

He is said to have declared:

Watch, so that you know how cheap the body is to men who have their eye on great glory.”

Mucius thrust his right hand into a fire which was lit for sacrifice and held it there without giving any indication of pain, thereby earning for himself and his descendants the cognomen Scaevola, meaning “left-handed“.

Porsena was shocked at the youth’s bravery, and dismissed him from the Etruscan camp, free to return to Rome, saying:

Go back, since you do more harm to yourself than me.”

At the same time, the King also sent ambassadors to Rome to offer peace.

Mucius was granted farming land on the right-hand bank of the Tiber, which later became known as the Mucia Prata (Mucian Meadows).

Above: Defence and Freedom – Mucius Scaevola in the Presence of Lars Porsenna

It is not too surprisingly that a cultured palace contains a reference to Scaevola, for he has been mentioned in popular culture over two millennia:

  • Dante Alighieri refers to Mucius and the sacrifice of his hand within the Divine Comedy. In Paradiso Canto 4: 82–87, along with St. Lawrence (3rd century CE), Mucius is depicted as a person possessing the rarest and firmest of wills.

Above: Dante Alighieri (1265 – 1321)

  • In a poem in Musa Posthuma, Martha Marchina compared Mucius unfavorably to the martyr Martha and suggests that Martha was the stronger hero because she suffered worse on behalf of God.

Above: First edition of The Posthumous Muse of Martha Marchina, the Virgin of Naples, 1662

  • Jean-Jacques Rousseau mentions in Book One of his Confessions that as a child, he attempted to replicate Mucius’ action by placing his hand over a chafing dish.

Above: Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712 – 1778)

  • At the age of 12, Friedrich Nietzsche, attempting to prove to his classmates at Schulpforta that the story could be true, burnt his outstretched palm over a book of burning matches without expression of pain and was only saved from serious harm by the school’s prefect.

Above: Friedrich Nietzsche (1844 – 1900)

  • Gordon Scott portrayed Mucius in the sword-and-sandal film Hero of Rome (1964), which was loosely based on this story.

  • Since 1991, the Spanish cultural association Fuerzas de Choque Extraordinarii from the Carthaginians and Romans festivities of Cartagena has Gaius Mucius Scaevola as their commander.

Above: Panorama of Cartagena, Spain

Another feature of the Music Room is the Savonnerie rugs, knotted carpets by the German Savonnerie factory in Bonn.

With their Chinese-inspired motifs, they show the enthusiasm for the exotic in 18th-century European art.

Above: Savonnerie rug, Bruchsal Palace

After passing through both antechambers, visitors arrived in the “large royal audience chamber“, the most elegant hall in the state apartment.

The representational function of the room is clear in the replica of the throne ensemble with an original relief coat of arms and audience chair.

The impressive tapestry series “Famous Men According to Plutarch” fits the theme of royal virtues.

The Palace Church, placed between the throne room and the royal bedchamber, takes on the function of a cabinet.

Above: Church Tower, Bruchsal Palace

The narrow room was used for the Prince-Bishop’s private prayers.

Of the original décor, the overdoors with scenes from the life of Christ have been preserved.

Several portraits, a prayer stool, and a set of an altar cross and silver candlesticks complete the room.

Above: Interior of the former Church, Bruchsal Palace

The former palace church of Bruchsal Palace was the pro-cathedral of the Bishopric of Speyer, which is to say the second episcopal church after the Speyer Cathedral.

Above: Speyer Cathedral, Germany

It was once painted by the famous artist, Cosmas Damian Asam.

Above: Cosmas Damian Asam (1686 – 1739) stucco in front of ceiling fresco inside Weltenburg Abbey, Kelhelm, Germany

Today, its interior is modern in design.

Above: Interior of the modern Church, Bruchsal Palace

From the outside, it can’t be recognized as a church:

St. Damian lies in the Palace’s southern wing, next to the main courtyard.

Its tower, designed by Balthasar Neumann in 1740, was moved away from the narrow Palace area for reasons of symmetry.

Above: Balthasar Neumann (1687 – 1753)

Only a long passage connects it to the Church.

It once had many functions: Pro-cathedral of the bishopric, palace church, and parish church.

Young priests-to-be were educated in the neighboring priests’ seminary.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

A bright ceiling painting, dark marble and stucco marble, life-sized sculptures:

This was the ceremonial presentation of the Palace Church in the time of the Prince-Bishops.

Its décor was particularly important to Prince-Bishop Damian Hugo von Schönborn (1676 – 1743).

Above: Damian Hugo von Schönborn depicted as a builder of Bruchsal Palace

He invested a great deal of money in the frescoes and engaged the famous painter, Cosmas Damian Asam.

The interactions between the painter and Schönborn were sometimes difficult, but the results of his work were impressive.

In bright pastel tones, he painted scenes from the history of St. Cosmas and St. Damian.

Above: St. Cosmas and St. Damian (3rd century CE)

In 1726, an Italian began to paint the palace church in Bruchsal:

Antonio Gresta.

Yet only a year later, he unexpectedly died.

Above: Antonio Gresta (1671 – 1727) fresco in the Music Room of Palazzo Pizzini in Ala, Trentino, Italy

Court intrigues annoyed him to death, or so the story goes.

Schönborn was satisfied with Gresta’s work, but now a new painter was needed:

Above: Damian Hugo family coat of arms, Bruchsal Palace

Enter Cosmas Damian Asam (1686–1739).

He was famous, in demand, and expensive.

From 1728 to 1729, he painted the Church of St. Damian and was paid 5,000 guilders for his work.

Above: Bruchsal Palace Church before 1945

The first dispute happened soon after work began.

In October 1728, Asam requested permission to travel home during the winter, though he had only been working in Bruchsal for seven weeks.

Above: Aerial view of Bruchsal

He could not have accomplished much so quickly, the Bishop thought, and found his behavior: 

Nothing more than pure chicanery“. 

But when he climbed the scaffolding, he saw the truth was quite the contrary:

Asam had already made substantial progress.

However, the painter had changed the design on his own authority!

Above: Cosmas Damian Asam

Asam had sent the suggested changes to Schönborn and had not received a reply.

He took this as agreement and continued working to avoid losing time.

Above: Damian Hugo von Schönborn

Schönborn felt that “the wool had pulled over his eyes and wrote: 

“This good man is curious.

He thinks that he alone is permitted to explain the contract.

I would say nothing to this high-handedness, and he would have nothing to do with any such peasant.

No one may play with us thus.

If he wishes to treat us so brusquely, such shall he receive in turn.”

Above: Church, Bruchsal Palace, 1930

Asam added to the planned scenes with the holy doctor Damian by including his brother, Cosmas, because both are part of the legend.

He also improved the distribution of the ceiling painting and imitated stucco decoration as a frame zone instead of painted architecture.

Above: The original ceiling painting of the Palace Church

The consequence:

The old paintings by Gresta no longer fit with it and had to be removed.

Above: Fra Angelico’s The martyrdom of Cosmas and Damian, Musée du Louvre, Paris, France

However, it all ended happily:

After completion, Schönborn had a deer shot for the painter as thanks.

Out of the 1945 wreckage of the Church, nine small bronze statuettes of the apostles were salvaged.

Today, they can once again be seen in the Church, one of the few elements of the old Church that have been preserved.

The figures are part of a group of Christ, Mary, and the Twelve Apostles, made in Augsburg in 1593.

Originally, they decorated the tabernacle of the high altar.

Above: Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper, 1498, Santa Maria del Grazie, Milan, Italy

The church wing was rebuilt between 1960 and 1966.

Architect Loth Götz designed the interior to be bright, modern, and intentionally modest.

The décor was the work of renowned artists of the time.

The sanctuary, now in the centre of the Church, and the bronze crucifix were designed by the Viennese sculptor, Fritz Wotruba.

HAP Grieshaber, then a professor at the Art Academy in Karlsruhe, created the Stations of the Cross:

He designed pressure plates for woodcarvings in white and gold and made them into splendid works of art.

Above: Church, Bruchsal Palace

On the south side of the main courtyard, the Winter Dining Room, the Gallery Room, and the Blue Room make up the Prince-Bishop’s private apartment.

The less representational private rooms on the southern side of the main courtyard made retreat from the public eye possible.

For the last Prince-Bishop of Speyer, Phillip Franz Wilderich von Walderdorff, the modest apartment was also his retirement residence from his abdication in 1802 until his death.

Whether a room was open to the public or reserved for the Prince-Bishop can also be determined based on the painting above the door.

Overdoors with mythological and biblical scenes hang in the representational apartments.

In the private rooms, still lifes, genre, or landscape pictures can be found.

In the Winter Dining Room, two still lifes of fruit by the court painter Lothar Schweickart have been preserved.

The ripe fruit can be understood as a symbol of transience, while the animals are a depiction of virtues and sins.

When some paintings from the collection were moved from the chamber wing to the central building in the 19th century, the Gallery Room received its name.

The collection consists of several hundred pictures by well-known European painters.

Some were the works of great masters and secured the Prince-Bishop’s reputation as a connoisseur of art.

The paintings displayed today have been preserved in the Palace.

The furniture — a writing desk with a walnut veneer and two gaming tables with chairs — are from the original collection.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

In 1810, the Blue Room was decorated with blue silk and likely served Queen Frederica of Sweden as a drawing room.

Above: Tapestry from the Blue Room, Bruchsal Palace

Today, the walls display two tapestries from the “The Transformations of Jupiter” series.

The five parts of the cycle depicts scenes from the Metamorphoses of Ovid, in which Jupiter takes on different forms to pursue young women.

Above: Latin poet Publius Ovidius Naso (aka Ovid) (43 BCE – 18 CE)

Here, “Leda With the Swan” and “Europa on the Bull” are depicted.

Above: Michelangelo, Ledo and the Swan, National Gallery, London

Above: Fresco, Europa and the Bull, Pompeii, Italy

Later, one of Amalie’s daughters moved in with her family.

When Margravine Amalie von Baden made Bruchsal Palace her dower house in 1806, a new style moved in with her.

Amalie took over the northern state apartment and the bordering private rooms from the last Prince-Bishop of Speyer.

Instead of the tapestries, which had become outdated, the margravine had the walls covered with silk and furnished the rooms with furniture in the Empire style.

The rooms of the northern state apartment and the neighboring private rooms were furnished for Margravine Amalie von Baden beginning in 1806.

She had the walls covered with modern silks and supplemented the existing furnishings with furniture in the Empire style from her own collection.

Above: Amalie von Baden’s apartment, Bruchsal Palace

The narrow room, which is entered through the Amalie’s Apartment, was used as an antechamber to the private rooms even in the time of the Prince-Bishops.

One inventory listed a bell pull in the service room, which indicates private use by the Margravine.

Today, four tapestries are displayed here, manufactured in the Royal d‘Aubusson factory by Reynaud and Pierre Couloudon.

They depict exotic landscapes with corresponding architecture and animals, surrounded by trees and plants.

Above: French tapestry, Antechamber, Bruchsal Palace

The antechamber connects to the audience chamber, which the Margravine called the “Red Drawing Room“.

She had the old-fashioned tapestries removed and had the walls covered with a “wallpaper of red satin“.

Today, a sofa in the Empire style, an encoignure — a corner cabinet following the French model — and a mahogany side table recall the décor from the time of Amalie.

The walls are hung with original paintings from the old Bruchsal collection, including Dutch works and cityscapes in the style of Canaletto.

Above: The Red Room, Bruchsal Palace

The “living room“, as it was called in the time of the Prince-Bishops, and later the “Yellow Room“, was a place for private conversations and reading.

The inventory from 1804 lists two large writing desks with many interior compartments and a round basket woven out of willows for outgoing letters.

Amalie also conducted business and held small gatherings here.

Now the palace’s oldest tapestry series decorates the room:

Magnificent tapestries, created in Brussels between 1550 and 1575, show the Old Testament story of David and Abigail.

Above: Living room, Bruchsal Palace

Amalie had the Prince-Bishops’ former stateroom decorated with modern furniture.

The furniture displayed today was created circa 1815.

The bed, vanity, and standing mirror have decorative elements that are typical for the Empire period, such as gilded lion’s paws, simulated Egyptian writing, shells, rosettes, and lotus blossoms.

Above: Amalie von Baden Apartment, Bruchsal Palace

She went down in the history of Baden as an enemy of Emperor Napoleon and the “mother-in-law of Europe“:

Amalie von Baden.

Above: Amalie von Hessen-Darmstadt (1754 – 1832)

The famous crown princess began living in Bruchsal Palace in 1806.

When there were no important guests, daily life was rather monotonous and lacking in luxury.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

Amalie (1754 – 1832) was the widow of the Crown Prince of Baden, Karl Ludwig.

Above: Karl Ludwig of Baden (1755 – 1801)

After the marriage of her son Karl to Napoleon’s adoptive daughter Stéphanie de Beauharnais, she lost her rank as the first lady of the court of Baden in 1806 and retreated to Bruchsal.

Above: Karl Ludwig Friedrich von Baden (1786 – 1818)

Above: Stéphanie de Beauharnais (1789 – 1860)

The Palace served as Amalie’s dower house until her death.

Famous as the “mother-in-law of Europe“, five of her daughters married important royalty, including the kings of Bavaria and Sweden and the Czar of Russia.

Above: Queen Karoline of Bavaria (1776 – 1841)

Above: Empress Elisabeth Alexeievna of Russia

Above: Queen Frederica of Sweden (1781-1826), wife of Gustav IV Adolf

Above: Duchess Maria of Brunswick – Wolfenbüttel (1782 – 1808)

Above: Grand Duchess Wilhelmine of Hesse and by Rhine (1788 – 1836)

Amalie’s Fountain, constructed in front of the solicitors’ building in 1912, is in remembrance of her.

Above: Amalie’s Fountain, Bruchsal Palace

From 1801 to 1832, Karoline von Freystedt, one of Amalie’s ladies-in-waiting, kept a diary.

In it, she described the people the crown princess met with.

Although stories of noisy celebrations in Bruchsal are still passed down today, they appear to have been rare exceptions.

Daily life at court, according to Freystedt, was uneventful.

The court was not very large and was only interesting when important guests came to Bruchsal.

Above: Aerial view of modern Bruchsal, Germany

As Karoline von Freystedt emphasized again and again, life at the court in Bruchsal was monotonous.

In 1829, for example, she wrote:

The long winter passed in silent sameness, the daily monotony interrupted only by the death of some acquaintances.” 

Even trips to the “reserve” as Steinberg Hill with its water palace and belvedere was called, was “hated by the royal household for its deep boredom, only the Margravine felt that it interrupted the monotony of daily life.”

Above: Steinsberg Castle

She also wrote about the visit of the Prussian King Friedrich Wilhelm III: 

Except for conversation with the Margravine, Bruchsal could offer him no amusement other than walks in the garden while Turkish music was played.” 

Above: King Friedrich Wilhelm III of Prussia (1770 – 1840)

Nor did the lady-in-waiting find Bruchsal to be particularly luxurious.

The indisposition of Amalie’s daughter, Tsarina Elisabeth, according to her information, was made worse by the simple lifestyle“.

Above: Empress Elisabeth Alexeievna of Russia

Any Baroque palace needs its formal, geometrically designed garden following French archetypes.

In Bruchsal, the palace garden was created in several stages.

Some elements of the geometric garden can still be identified, but others were remade into idyllic parcels in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

The large Baroque path axis, surrounded by chestnut trees, structured the garden in the past as it does now.

The complex was once twice as large as it is now, but the lower part was separated by the railroad line in the 19th century.

On the other side of the tracks, it is now forested, but the continuation of the garden axis can still be recognized.

Originally, the street extended as far as the town of Graben and was part of an extensive system of avenues created under Prince-Bishop Schönborn that stretched throughout his lands on the right side of the Rhine.

Above: Aerial view of Bruchsal Palace

Fountains in water basins splash and burble near the Palace.

In the Baroque period, many citrus trees and other potted trees stood in the side areas.

They were overwintered in the two long orangeries.

With their ornate sculptural and architectural painting in tones of yellow and green, the former orangery buildings still contribute to the special flair of the complex today.

Prince-Bishop Hutten had them converted in the 1740s so that court staff could be housed here.

In the Baroque period, ornate beds lay left and right of the central axis, decorated with elaborated ornamentation made of crushed stones, shells, and short plants.

In the 19th century, winding paths were created here, surrounded by many trees.

Between them, Baroque water basins have been preserved.

Another large basin was converted into a duck pond in 1908 and supplemented with rocks.

The two circular flower beds that now end the complex at the side have a modern design.

The transition to the lower area of the garden is marked by a row of small water basins.

Four “watchmen” stand here: the sculptures of the halberdiers with their long weapons.

Joachim Günther and his workshop created them in the late 1750s.

The sculptures along the avenue are also Günther’s work.

They embody the four seasons and the four elements, a typical selection of sculptures for an 18th-century garden.

The original four elements stand in the Garden Hall.

Above: Garden Hall, Bruchsal Palace

Bruchsal Palace seems like a fine place to spend one’s exile.

Above: Bruchsal Palace

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

They were offered to settle at Meersburg Castle on Lake Constance.

Above: Meersburg Castle, Germany

The former King and Queen had settled in the Duchy of Baden, where they arrived on 10 February 1810.

After having become private persons, the incompatibility between Frederica and Gustav Adolf immediately became known in their different views in how to live their lives.

Gustav Adolf wished to live a simple family life in a congregation of the Moravian Church, while Frederica wished to settle in Meersburg.

Their sexual differences were also brought to the surface, as Frederica refused sexual intercourse because she did not wish to give birth to exiled royalty.

These differences caused Gustav Adolf to leave suddenly, without warning, alone for Basel in Switzerland in April 1810, from which he expressed complaints about their sexual incompatibility and demanded a divorce.

Frederica settled with the children at Karlsruhe, while Gustav Adolf settled in Basel.

Under the name “Graf von Gottorp” he guested “as one of the strangest guests” in a room in the Hotel Drei Könige, which he described as a “cabin“. 

He also condescendingly insulted the Birsig, above which the “cabin” was located, as a sewer. 

Above: The Drei Könige / Trois Rois Hotel, Basel, Switzerland

The couple made two attempts to reconcile in person:

Once in Switzerland in July, and a second time in Altenburg in Thüringen in September.

The attempts of reconciliation was unsuccessful.

Gustav Adolf issued divorce negotiations with her mother, stating that he wished to be able to marry again.

In 1811, divorce negotiations began. 

It was Gustav Adolf who filed for divorce, while Frederica opposed it. 

Gustav Adolf stated as a reason that he wanted to have many children but not royal ones, that he wanted to live a simple religious life with a religious wife, and that he preferred to marry below his rank in order to do so. 

Frederica was not willing to divorce.

Her mother suggested that Gustav Adolf entered some kind of secret morganatic marriage (an open marriage) on the side to avoid the scandal of divorce.

Gustav Adolf did agree to this suggestion, but as they could not figure out how such a thing should be arranged, a proper divorce was finally issued in February 1812.

In the divorce settlement, Gustav Adolf renounced all his assets in both Sweden and abroad, as well as his future assets in the form of his inheritance rights after his mother, to his children.

He also renounced the custody and guardianship of his children.

Above: Commemorative medal from the coronation of Gustav IV Adolf and Frederica on 3 April 1800

Two years later, Frederica placed her children under the guardianship of her brother-in-law, the Russian Tsar Alexander.

Above: Emperor Alexander I of Russia (1777 – 1825)

Frederica kept in contact through correspondence with Queen Charlotte of Sweden, whom she entrusted her economic interests in Sweden, as well as with her former mother-in-law.

Above: Queen Charlotte of Sweden and Norway (1759 – 1818)

Above: Frederica’s mother-in-law, Sophia Magdalena of Denmark and Sweden (1746 – 1813)

While she did not contact Gustav Adolf directly, she kept informed about his life and often contributed financially to his economy without his knowledge.

Above: Frederica and Gustav Adolf in happier times

Frederica settled in Bruchsal Castle, but also acquired several other residences in Baden as well as a country villa, Villamont, outside Lausanne in Switzerland.

Above: Old Lausanne, Switzerland

In practice, she spent most of her time in the court of Karlsruhe from 1814 onwards, and also travelled a lot around Germany, Switzerland and Italy, using the name Countess Itterburg after a ruin in Hesse, which she had acquired.

Above: Itterburg, Hesse, 1605

In accordance with the abdication terms, she kept her title of Queen and had her own court, and kept in close contact with her many relatives and family in Germany. 

According to her ladies-in-waiting, she turned down proposals from her former brother-in-law Friedrich Wilhelm of Braunschweig and Friedrich Wilhelm III of Prussia.

Above: Duke Friedrich Wilhelm of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel (1771 – 1815)

Above: King Friedrich Wilhelm III of Prussia (1770 – 1840)

She was rumoured to have secretly married her son’s tutor, the French – Swiss J.N.G. de Polier-Vernland, possibly in 1823.

I think this is simply a rumour.

In 1819, her daughter Sophia married the heir to the throne of Baden, Frederica’s paternal half-uncle, the future Grand Duke Leopold I of Baden.

Above: Grand Duchess Sophie of Baden (1801 – 1865)

Above: Grand Duke Leopold I of Baden (1790 – 1852)

Frederica’s last years were plagued by weakened health.

Above: Queen Frederica, 1824

She died in Lausanne of a heart disease.

She is buried in the Schloss and Stiftskirche in Pforzheim, Germany.

Above: Schloss und Stiftstungskirche (Castle and Collegiate Church) St. Michael, Pforzheim, Germany

As a divorced Swedish ex-King, Gustav then led a wandering life on the Continent as “the Count of Gottorp“, and later, Colonel Gustafsson

He had several mistresses and with three of them he had children. 

He got triplets with one woman. 

The only child he recognized as legitimate was his son Adolf Gustavsson (1820–1907) who he had with his mistress Maria Schlegel. 

Gustav Adolf maintained an exchange of letters with his mother until her death in 1813.

Above: Gustav’s mother, Queen Sofia Magdalena of Denmark (1746 – 1813)

In 1812 he wanted to marry a maid named Iselin, but failed when all the priests he asked for various reasons refused to marry the couple. 

Iselin is said to have infected him with a venereal disease, robbed him and abandoned him when he decided to make a pilgrimage to Jerusalem with her. 

Above: Images of Jerusalem, Israel

It was not until 1818 that his unsteady life brought him back to Basel, where, after another incident in the Drei Könige, he bought a house at 72 St. Johanns-Vorstadt for 12,000 francs. 

A commemorative plaque still adorns the building today. 

In the end he lived in this house under the name “Colonel Gustafsson“.

Above: Where the Swedish King once lived, Basel, Switzerland

In the same year he also acquired Basel citizenship for 1,500 francs after renouncing all privileges of birth and status in front of the assembled council. 

However, according to contemporary sources, he never found civil peace. 

He felt misunderstood all his life, was annoyed by the screaming of children bathing in the Rhine and applied in vain for the post of arsenal manager. 

In 1822 he finally sent the Basel citizen’s letter back to the town hall, offended.

Above: Basel Rathaus (City Hall)

Almost 200 years after the Swedish king, the Ayurvedic restaurant “Sri Veda” is located at St. Johanns-Vorstadt 72.

Above: Logo of the Sri Veda, Basel

Above: Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden (aka Colonel Gustafsson), 1830

In October 1833 he went to Weisses Rössli (“The White Horse“), an inn in St. Gallen. 

When entering the small rooms at the White Horse Inn in St Gallen, Colonel Gustafsson said:

“Everything here reminds me of my cabinet in Stockholm, even the wallpaper.

I want to live in this room.

And so he did.

He decided to spend the rest of his life in quiet resignation with Rössli landlord Samuel Naf in St. Gallen.

The restless finally came to rest here.

He wanted to spend the rest of his life in peaceful seclusion.

Above: Gustav IV Adolf’s room at the inn Zum Weissen Rössli, St. Gallen, in which he died in 1837

In fairness, St. Gallen, the main urban centre of eastern Switzerland, is a relaxed provincial city set amid rolling countryside with a beautiful Old Town.

St. Gallen is big enough to bristle with life, but small enough to navigate on foot.

And navigate St. Gallen on foot I often did.

I tried not to be one of those who simply follow the accustomed path from train station to workplace and return without deviation nor exploration.

Above: St. Gallen, Switzerland

While the professional world considered him quite crazy, Gustav took refuge in playing the piano and reading books for hours on end.

He read countless newspapers and journals, preferably military science, which he liked to talk about.

He also wrote himself, for example in 1835, his justifying memoirs about his dethronement, which he published in St. Gallen, entitled March 13 or the Most Important Facts of the Revolution of 1809 under his pseudonym Colonel Gustaffson.

He also wrote a treatise on ebb and flow, an Essay on State Economy, and the Dialogue du Croyant et Clairvoyant – words of consolation to political refugees to whom he felt connected as an exile.

In the evenings, the increasingly quirky Gustaffson went for long walks.

He refrained from driving and riding because he had to live so frugally.

He didn’t know that his daughter Sophie slipped money to Naf so that her father only had to pay for half his pension costs.

The family he despised also ensured that he got fresh clothes from time to time.

He corresponded with several princes and statesmen in Europe.

Answers he disliked or unanswered complaints etched deep into his irritable mind.

His sensitivity always caught up with him.

When he was really or supposedly hurt, he cried for hours, got drunk and locked himself in his room for months.

Above: Former site of the White Horse, St. Gallen

The Swedish journalist Nils Arfwidsson (1802 – 1880) travelled through Europe in the 1830’s and came to St Gallen in Switzerland.

I had by chance lodged at an inn, by no means of the first order, called the White Horse.

I was about to pass the door to the common room, where I had forgotten something immaterial.

Already at the stairs the tune from an old, hoarse fortepiano reached my ears.

A pair of hands moved across it in slow accords in minor.

It was nothing ingenious or virtuosic in these fantasies, I admit, but the deep melancholy they conveyed caught my attention.

I opened the door.

The music stopped immediately.

No one in the room but the person by the piano who, when I entered, rose with an awkward and shy expression.

His entire posture, his facial shape reminded me of someone.

I felt as if I, back in Sweden, had seen, if not an individual then at least a portrait, an image that resembled this figure.

Arfwidsson was not mistaken.

He had, in fact, encountered the former Swedish King Gustav IV Adolf.

Nils Arfwidsson never said that he was Swedish or that he had recognized the former King.

They spoke German together, Arfwidsson pretending to be a Baltic businessman.

When leaving the Inn after some days Arfwidsson entered Colonel Gustafsson’s rooms.

The King “complained that he had been ill in the night, excused himself and heartily pressed my hand.

I raised his hands to my lips.

He stared, surprised, at me.

On my lips hovered a word, a Swedish word, only one, but I repressed it.

What would it have gained?

A deeper bow than he nowadays was used to became my farewell and the only thing that revealed myself.

Did he guess or suspect anything?

I will most likely never know.

Above: Nils Arfvidsson (1802 – 1880)

When the ex-King became sick, with swollen feet and a tight chest, he resisted doctors and medicines, because he distrusted them.

In his simple room in the White Horse, he died from a stroke on 7 February 1837, alone, alcoholic and destitute.

Only a few things were left to inherit by his estranged family.

A wooden box contained an odd assortment of mementoes and practical objects.

Smoking paraphernalia, for example.

And a coin purse with some small change.

The purse and some of the other items in the box are stained with ink.

It is unclear if this happened in Colonel Gustafsson’s lifetime.

More intriguing is perhaps the roll of ribbon for the Swedish Order of the Sword.

Ex-King Gustaf could only have had sentimental reasons to keep the length of ribbon.

The same goes for a set of buttons for a freemason’s uniform.

The oddities left in the box give us a rare insight into a quiet man’s life, a man reminiscing about his past.

A man born in a palace, living his last years in an inn “by no means of the first order”.

Above: What Gustav left behind – a fire-striker, a few pieces of tinder to light a fire, a roll of ribbon for the Order of the Sword, a set of buttons for a freemason’s uniform, a reading pipe, a pipe cleaner, goat suede gloves, a knife, a pen and pencil set, a red Morocco leather purse, and some toothpicks

There is no monument to remind us of him.

No street is named after him.

No city tour deals with him.

He is only mentioned by two measly building plaques.

One is located on the busy arterial road to Basel’s St. Johann suburb.

The other is practically invisible above a shop window in St. Gallen’s Old Town.

This King hardly left any traces of himself in Switzerland.

He was a queer oddball.

His presence was not a great moment in history.

He filled those he met not with pride but with shame or awkward silence.

He didn’t want to be remembered.

Above: Coat of arms of King Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden

He was buried in Moravia.

At the suggestion of King Oscar II of Sweden his body was finally brought to Sweden and interred in Riddarholm Church.

Above: Riddarholm Church, Stockholm

A Swedish connection for me was my Starbucks colleague M.

Above: The lovely and mysterious Ms. M

My memory is unclear since we parted company why she left Stockholm and first came to St. Gallen – boyfriend? studies? both? – nor why she left.

What is interesting to me when I read her Facebook profile is how she does not mention her time there.

Was her time in St. Gallen like Gustav Adolf’s?

A dead end destination?

Did she envision a potential life of solitude, alcoholism and destitution had she remained?

Above: Old houses of St. Gallen

From what I read these days she seems happy working in Stockholm.

What more can we ask for than this?

Above: Stockholm

I am often asked:

Why are you in Turkey and not in Switzerland?

I am often asked:

Why have you chosen to live alone and not remain with your wife back in Landschlacht?

I am often asked:

How do you feel so far removed from the life you once led?

How can you possibly be happy?

I’ve been long, a long way from here
Put on a poncho, played for mosquitoes
And drank ’til I was thirsty again
We went searching through thrift store jungles
Found Geronimo’s rifle, Marilyn’s shampoo
And Benny Goodman’s corset and pen

Well okay, I made this up
I promised you I’d never give up

If it makes you happy
It can’t be that bad
If it makes you happy
Then why the hell are you so sad?

We get down, a real low down
You listen to Coltrane, derail your own train
Well, who hasn’t been there before?
I come proud, around the hard way
Bring you comics in bed, scrape the mold off the bread
And serve you French toast again

Well okay, I still get stoned
I’m not the kind you should take home

If it makes you happy
It can’t be that bad
If it makes you happy
Then why the hell are you so sad?

If it makes you happy
It can’t be that bad
If it makes you happy
Then why the hell are you so sad?

We’ve been far
Far away from here
Put on a poncho, played for mosquitoes
And everywhere in between

Well okay, we get along
So what if right now everything’s wrong?

If it makes you happy
It can’t be that bad
If it makes you happy
Then why the hell are you so sad?

If it makes you happy
It can’t be that bad
If it makes you happy
Then why the hell are you so sad?

Above: Sheryl Crow, from her If It Makes You Happy video

I think of Gustav IV Adolf and I ponder the thought that maybe he was happy in St. Gallen after all.

That maybe our expectations that he should have been unhappy have caused us to assess him as a man lost in a sea of loss and loneliness.

Or maybe, just maybe, he learned to embrace disaster and realized that:

An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered.”

G.K. Chesterton, “On Running After One’s Hat

Above: Gilbert Keith Chesterton (1874 – 1936)

I am not Gustav IV Adolf in character nor in background.

My wife and I are still married.

We were not blessed with children.

She is a medical professional.

I am an ESL teacher.

She remains in Switzerland, strong and independent.

I am in Turkey, learning how to be strong and independent.

I am not driven by baser instincts as Gustav was, though his simple life in solitude is what I have adopted.

My apartment is a fine lodging, but it is no grander than the lodgings the White Horse offered the ex-King.

Above: Flag of Turkey

Do I miss my wife, my old life, at times?

Certainly.

I am not made of stone.

But I cannot be in a country where doing my job with any consistency is difficult.

That is why I left.

This is why I am not eager to return.

I am not seeking to divorce my wife, but I do understand that asking her to wait indefinitely for me is unrealistic.

I ask nothing of her.

What little I have is hers for the asking.

But some days are longer than others.

And some nights last an eternity.

I stay the course here though there are those who feel I should have stayed the course there.

Sting sings on the jukebox of my mind and I find myself wondering whether it is really so terrible a fate, so damned a destiny to be the “King of Pain“.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook

Canada Slim and the King of Pain

Eskişehir, Turkey, Saturday 28 May 2022

I am often asked, usually in a tone of utter astonishment:

Why are you in Turkey and not in Switzerland?

Above: Fairytale Castle, Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Turkey

I am often asked, usually in a tone of complete confusion:

Why have you chosen to live alone and not remain with your wife back in Landschlacht?

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

I am often asked, usually in a tone of total concern:

How do you feel being so far removed from the life you led back in Switzerland (or going further back, in Canada)?

Above: Flag of Canada

How can you possibly be happy?

The explanations are not so easy to elucidate.

“To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive.”

Robert Louis Stevenson

Above: Robert Louis Stevenson (1850 – 1894)

Certainly, the idea of going off to the unknown to seek adventures holds more than a touch of romance for me.

In my own humble way I might compare myself to early heroic explorers such as Ferdinand Magellan or to fictional travellers in the vein of Phileas Fogg, as circumnavigators of our planet have always captured the imagination of my adventurous soul.

Above: Ferdinand Magellan (1480 – 1521)

Above: First edition of Jules Verne’s Around the World in Eighty Days

I will openly admit that nothing can compare with the joy of the open road.

The sense of possibility and adventure brings feelings of exhilaration, too long submerged in the workaday routines of home.

Cheap air travel – Sorry, Greta Thunberg. – has opened up parts of the globe – for better or worse – once reserved for the seriously affluent.

The sense of possibility and adventure brings feelings of exhilaration, too long submerged in the workaday routines of home.

Cheap air travel – Sorry, Greta Thunberg. – has opened up parts of the globe – for better or worse – once reserved for the seriously affluent.

Above: Greta Thunberg

When travelling in far-flung corners of the world, you can escape the demands of modern life:

The chores, the clutter, the technology (this latter not so easy for millennials to abandon).

Above: Young adults using their mobile phones individually at a party

It is said that there is no fool like an old fool.

Should I not, a man who probably has fewer years ahead than behind, finally accept my fate, stay settled and be content with my assigned lot in life?

But whatever your stage in life, travelling spontaneously means you have the freedom to choose from an infinite spectrum of possibilities.

Those who have experienced independent travel have been smitten by the travel bug, moulded by Wanderlust, and will forever after long to visit more places, see more wonders and spend a longer time abroad.

I have been travelling, punctuated by periods of work to fund my travels, since my mid-20s.

Above: Your humble blogger

I met my wife when I was 30.

Above: Edmund Blair Leighton, The Wedding

Prior to my present circumstances in Turkey, I have lived and worked as a teacher in South Korea, Germany and Switzerland.

Above: Flag of South Korea

Above: Hwaseong Fortress, Suwon, South Korea

I have spent the last two decades in the last two aforementioned countries because of my relationship with my wife.

But part of the equation that determines a man’s total self-actualization is his ability to find happiness in the activities that generate his income.

In Germany this was easier.

Above: Flag of Germany

In Switzerland, my wife’s employment opportunities as a doctor were enhanced.

As a ESL teacher, my employment bonanza turned to dust in Switzerland.

Coming to Switzerland gave new life to my wife.

Coming to Switzerland was career suicide for me.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

The memory of a life that once was, where trekking in hinterlands was within the grasp of this ordinary man, gave me longing from a fascination ne’er forgotten for destinations as yet undiscovered.

Faraway places
With strange soundin’ names
Faraway over the sea
Those faraway places
With the strange soundin’ names
Are callin’, callin’ me

Goin’ to China
Or maybe Siam
I want to see for myself
Those faraway places
I’ve been readin’ about
In a book that I took from a shelf

I start getting restless
Whenever I hear
The whistle of a train
I pray for the day
I can get underway
And look for those castles in Spain

They call me a dreamer
Well, maybe I am
But I know that I’m burnin’ to see
Those faraway places
With the strange soundin’ names
Callin’, callin’ me

Of course, the practical, the logical reasoning that is the Germanic temperament invariably asks how such adventures can be afforded.

Magellan had the backing of the King and Queen of Spain, Phileas Fogg was a gentleman of independent means, and Michael Palin could always call on the resources of the BBC.

How can ordinary people possibly make their dreams a reality?

Above: Flag of the Spanish Empire (1516 – 1700)

Above: Michael Palin

I am a loveable idiot.

In my youth when I wanted to go somewhere I just went.

Once upon a time I entered the US with $10 Canadian in my pocket and left the US eight months later with $10 American.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

I walked many miles across the expanse of Canada with often minimal money and with no inkling where I might lay my head each evening.

Above: Canada (in green)

Like Blanche of A Streetcar Named Desire, I have always depended on the kindness of strangers and my own resourcefulness within the limits of the law.

The conventional means is to work hard all one’s life until that glorious wondrous day when you have the financial wherewithal to travel indefinitely.

But that makes the assumption that when that day arrives (if that day arrives) that a person has both the opportunity and the health to do so.

Grim spells of work, denying yourself the living of life may be a truly honourable, safe and secure, way of joining that safari in Tanzania, that diving in the Philippines, that bungee jumping in New Zealand sometime in the uncertain future.

Above: Flag of Tanzania

Above: Flag of the Philippines

Above: Flag of New Zealand

But what if it were possible to skip this decades-long, lifetime-long stage and head off into the horizon sooner than one’s senior years?

Instead of trying to finance the expensive trips advertised in the glossy travel brochures, what about trying to find alternative ways of experiencing those same places at a fraction of the cost?

Above: Travel agent, The Truman Show

Above: Jim Carrey (Truman Burbank), The Truman Show

Working in a faraway place allows the traveller to see how daily life is lived there.

Certainly, it is cheaper and quicker and far more satisfying a solution than waiting until I can afford to travel continuously in comfort.

And working abroad is an excellent way to experience a foreign culture from the inside.

The plucky Brit spending a few months on a Queensland outback station will have a different life experience than someone tending bar in Queens all their lives in the hopes that they might one day be able to afford that Florida fortnight in a resort hotel.

Above: Outback station, Queensland, Australia

Above: Bar, Queens, New York City, USA

Phil Tomkins, a 45-year-old Englishman who spent a year teaching on the tiny Greek island of Kea, (as quoted in Susan Griffith’s Work Your Way Around the World) describes the thought processes that galvanized him into action:

I think it comes down to the fact that we are only on this planet for a finger-snap of time.

If you have any kind of urge for a bit of adventure, then my advice would be to go for it!

Even if it all goes horribly wrong, you can look people in the eyes and say:

“At least, I gave it a try!”

You can work nine-to-five in an office or factory all day, come home, switch on the Idiot Lantern (what we North Americans call the Boob Tube) and sit there watching Michael Palin travelling the world – or you can be bold, seize the day, and do something amazing.

One thing I can guarantee:

When we are lying on our deathbed many years from now, we will not be saying to ourselves:

“Oh, I wish I had spent more time at the dead-end job and had a little less adventure in my life!”

Above: Ioulida, Kea, Greece

Above: Flag of Greece

Anyone with a taste for adventure and a modicum of nerve (or folly, depending on your point-of-view) has the potential for exploring the far-flung corners of the globe on very little money.

I am a loveable idiot, incomprehensible to many, more logical, folks.

For example, the textile factory that funds my weekly journey and sojourn in Denizli cheerfully, uncomplainingly paid for me to stay in a luxury hotel, the Park Dedeman.

There was absolutely no reason to complain about the standards of the services this hotel provided.

Above: Hotel Park Dedeman, Denizli, Turkey

I learned that were cheaper places for the company to put me up and since last week I am now to be a regular weekly guest at the Denizli Öğretmen Evi (Teachers’ House) at one third the cost of the Dedeman but with the same basic amenities provided in a less lavish form.

Granted this is not my money to worry about, but the OE feels more real, more authentic an experience than the Dedeman.

And, perhaps, if a decision for the continuation of ESL courses at the company hinges upon the cost of accommodating me in Denizli then I have made it easier for them to prolong the programme.

More importantly (at least to me) it is good to remind myself that comfort does not equal cultural experience.

The OE has few, if any, foreign guests.

And for Turks the OE is affordable, especially at time when the Turkish economy is hurting.

As for the textile factory that foots my bill, whether they acknowledge it or not, I have saved them money and have shown them, whether they see it or not, that I value their custom and wish to make it clear that I consider their needs as much as I own.

A luxury suite at a fancy hotel is nice, but is it a requirement for me?

No.

Above: Öğretmen Evi, Denizli, Turkey

I am often asked:

Wouldn’t the burden of being a stranger in a strange land be easier if shared?

Wouldn’t living abroad be more pleasant when someone were there by your side?

Are you not lonely sometimes?

Don’t you miss the wife?

To their surprise (and occasionally mine)(and to the consternation of the wife), loneliness is rarely an issue since solo travelling, solitary living, allows me to meet and be befriended by local people.

I have travelled quite pleasantly with my wife, but travelling with a significant other lacks the sense of possibility and adventure that I love most about travelling, about living abroad.

Whatever situations I get myself into when I am on my own, I have to get out of by myself.

Certainly there are sunsets I long to share and nights without end best survived together, but by the same token, the glorious moments, the feelings of triumph and absolute freedom, are uniquely mine.

Certainly we keep in communication with one another, thanks to the wonders of modern communication such as WhatsApp and Skype, for we remain married to one another at this time.

Above: WhatsApp logo

Above: Skype logo

Despite the limitations that time and distance create, I act responsibly to the best of my ability.

Do I honestly believe that she will wait indefinitely for me to end this “phase” of living and working abroad?

No, I do not believe so, for in my (albeit, limited) understanding of women, she craves the companionship that a constant partner provides.

I am not constantly consistently there.

And I cannot predict when this “phase” will end or even if it will end.

And let’s get real about the elephant in the room:

Sex.

Sex isn’t a separate part of a person.

Your heart, spirit, mind and body need to be along for the ride.

Sex is a spiritual practice, capable of transforming your whole outlook and refreshing your sense of glory in being alive.

And as much as self-manipulation is an essential and healthy part of a person’s sexuality throughout life, as much as it is the way to develop appreciation of ourselves and our sensory potential and realize that we own our own sexual energy, it is unfair to expect that self-love will indefinitely satisfy those who crave the intimacy of companionship.

My wife is a woman and women crave companionship.

She will not wait indefinitely nor is it reasonable to have such an expectation.

We are all animals, to one degree or another.

We like eating, drinking, sleeping, sex.

But what separates us from the animals is our ability to control our baser instincts.

You and me, baby, ain’t nothin’ but mammals
So let’s do it like they do on the Discovery Channel
(Do it again now)
You and me, baby, ain’t nothin’ but mammals
So let’s do it like they do on the Discovery Channel

I need food and drink and sleep to survive, but sex is a privilege not a right, a pleasure not a necessity.

And while I am married I refrain from the temptation of the latter as I seek to find myself in the adventure of solo living, of solo travelling.

Being alone, as much as there are moments when I miss the companionship of my wife, makes me more conscious of being alive when I am journeying in new and exciting ways.

Being in alien places and cultures gives me an increased connection with myself, because it is there in these new situations that my consciousness wakes up.

Above: James Stewart (George Bailey) and Thomas Mitchell (Uncle Billy), It’s A Wonderful Life

Away from Landschlacht, Switzerland, away from Lachute, Canada, I realize that I have turned off the unconscious autopilot that ran my normal life.

Above: rue Principale, Lachute, Québec, Canada

Away from the familiar, away from the safety and security, away from the routine, I start to take conscious control of my life.

Life becomes more immediately lived, with sometimes penury acting as a spur to action, with necessity becoming the mother of invention.

Of course, things can go desperately wrong.

Accidents will happen.

Folks get murdered, kidnapped, robbed.

You may get sick or lonely or fed up, have a demoralizing run of bad luck, fail to find a good job, begin to run out of money.

And, let me be honest, a job is a job is a job, whether it is in Switzerland or Swaziland, Canada or Costa Rica.

But when a job abroad does not work out successfully, the foreign experience is nevertheless more memorable than just staying at home.

Above: Travel agency poster, The Truman Show

Travelling is difficult at times.

Nothing much is familiar when we get to wherever we are going.

For many people, this is a strain.

Because they don’t understand everything that is happening, they try to diminish the experience, to make it unimportant and less real.

In my writing I try to show the reader how to accept, as calmly as possible, the sights and experiences of a strange place.

I try to make the foreign feel more familiar.

Part of that familiarization is the acceptance that life is not always fair, that experience will not always be positive or cheery.

Guidebooks tend to stress fun and ignore problems, but this attitude is not necessarily helpful.

Warnings and precautions should make a trip easier and more enjoyable rather than nerve-wracking.

On Thursday 19 May, a banking holiday in Turkey when many institutions (including schools) were closed, “the boys” (the male staff of Wall Street English Eskisehir) went to a hammam (a Turkish bathhouse) but those who have never done so were nervous and reluctant about the entire adventure.

Above: Kaplicar Ilicar Hamam, Eskişehir, Turkey

(The Commemoration of Atatürk, Youth and Sports Day (Turkish: Atatürk’ü Anma, Gençlik ve Spor Bayramı), is an annual Turkish national holiday celebrated on 19 May to commemorate Mustafa Kemal Atatürk’s landing at Samsun on 19 May 1919, which is regarded as the beginning of the Turkish War of Independence in the official historiography.)

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881 – 1938)

I, on the other hand, wish I could have joined them, but duty determined that I had to, once again, travel on Thursdays to Denizli.

Above: Bird’s eye view of Denizli, Turkey

I reminded the hammam newbies that when you feel nervous while travelling – for it is the foreigners, the “recent” residents of Turkey, who have yet to try much of what Turkey has to offer – either out of ignorance of what is happening or out of fear of what you have heard might happen, you cut yourself off from experience – good or bad.

Above: Flag of Turkey

You communicate in only one sense:

Defensively.

That is why tourists often speak to the locals in tones one would address a lamppost.

When you are relaxed you can communicate – a lesson my foreman Rasool frequently tries to teach me at work – even if it is just a quick smile or a passing greeting.

Above: Rasool Ajini

So, this is one of the main purposes of my writing:

To help travellers – And aren’t we all travellers in one way or another? – be both aware and appreciative of what they see and experience, to lessen the impact, not only on the reader, but on the places and people they travel to see.

Wherever you happen to be geographically, travel actually takes place in your brain.

Wherever you go there you are.

But I think that far too many folks expect to find home teleported to the places they have travelled.

Unfortunately, the landscape reflects this expectation as it seems to be continually transformed into the familiarity of the place you left behind upon the place wherever you find yourself now.

Home is so sad.

It stays as it was left, shaped to the comfort of the last to go, as if to win them back.

Philip Larkin, “Home Is So Sad

Above: Philip Larkin (1922 – 1985)

I was lucky, I know, to have been setting out at that time, in a landscape not yet bulldozed for speed.

Many of the country roads still followed their original tracks, drawn by packhorse or lumbering cartwheel, hugging the curve of a valley or yielding to a promontory like the wandering line of a stream.

It was not, after all, so very long ago, but no one could make the journey today.

Many of the old roads have gone.

The motor car, since then, has begun to cut the landscape to pieces, through which the hunched-up traveller races at gutter height, seeing less than a dog in a ditch.

Laurie Lee, As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning

Above: Laurie Lee (1914 – 1997)

Of course the world has been forced to concede even more ground in the search for greater speed and efficiency today.

Movement costs money and the faster the journey the quicker the expenditure.

The longer the stop, the longer the trip.

Faster the journey, lesser the experience.

The slower the journey, the greater sense of meaning the experience has.

Train traveller Paul Theroux spoke of the misery of air travel:

You define a good flight by negatives:

You didn’t get hijacked, you didn’t crash, you didn’t throw up, you were not late, you were not nauseated by the food.

So you are grateful.

Paul Theroux, The Old Patagonian Express

An uncomfortable truth about the modern holiday is that now, paradoxically, we can move so quickly around the world, most of us don’t actually travel any more.

We only arrive.

For some people, much of the enjoyment of a trip is in the advance planning.

They haunt libraries, bookstores and the Internet, send off for brochures and itineraries, draw lines and “X”s on maps and consult calendars for a propitious departure date.

Nothing is left to the imagination.

Everything that could be conceivably be attractive has been packaged and sanitized for your protection so that you can consume whatever you want, go wherever you want, without any need for individual search or discovery.

Personal interests and energy levels are very important, but many travellers fail to take these factors into account, however, and instead force themselves into the type of trip they assume they should be making.

Frantic frenzy, fumbling from church to ruin, cathedral-gazing and temple-crawling, leaves even the mighty weak.

I am my selfie, my companion my camera, plastic electronics grafted to faces capturing faces, a part of the landscape and yet apart from it, we are overexposed and under-stimulated.

Souvenirs of the surreal, not knowing where we are nor really caring to know.

Photographs are not memories.

The most important parts of any trip – how you felt and what you learned – collect in your mind over time.

If it was truly important, you will remember it.

You may not understand why the thing you remember is valuable when it seemed less crucial at the time, but that realization comes only with time.

All the things you can see in your mind, the experiences you are so rapturously seeking to reveal cannot, can never be, captured in a snapshot, or vicariously shared in a video.

Photographs break the spell of imagination.

Snapshots lack magic.

Videos fail to capture the vibrancy of experience.

Midnight, not a sound from the pavement
Has the moon lost her memory?
She is smiling alone
In the lamplight, the withered leaves collect at my feet
And the wind begins to moan

Memory, all alone in the moonlight
I can dream of the old days
Life was beautiful then
I remember the time I knew what happiness was
Let the memory live again

Every street lamp seems to beat
A fatalistic warning
Someone mutters and the street lamp sputters
And soon it will be morning

Daylight, I must wait for the sunrise
I must think of a new life
And I mustn’t give in
When the dawn comes, tonight will be a memory too
And a new day will begin

Burnt out ends of smoky days
The stale, cold smell of morning
A street lamp dies, another night is over
Another day is dawning

Touch me, it’s so easy to leave me
All alone with the memory
Of my days in the sun
If you touch me, you’ll understand what happiness is
Look, a new day has begun

Above: Logo of the musical Cats

We have forgotten the thrill of living in the moment, which is the real destination of all journeys, is what the greatest travel writers reveal and revel in their meticulous descriptions of the places they go and the people they meet.

It is only when you learn of the existence of moments that have the capacity to change your life forever do you begin to understand the beauty and majesty of existence, that the meaning of life is in the living of life.

When we seize the moment and embrace the fleeting opportunity it brings then do we truly live.

To truly travel is to slowly pick at the fabric of national identity as boundaries between nations are revealed as the transitional ideas they are.

There is a tendency to view the world in terms of miles/kilometres rather than actual geography, for actual geography has been been terraformed into miles of roads jammed with traffic.

A few hundred years ago there was no option but to travel slowly along the contours and channels of the earth and sea.

Indeed, that was the very definition of travel.

The effort required in those days meant that those who did go on long journeys came back as heroes, viewed by their home-locked peers as superior men and women.

Above: Spirit of St. Louis, National Air and Space Museum, Washington DC.
The Spirit of St. Louis is the custom-built single engine, single seat monoplane that was flown solo by Charles Lindbergh (1902 – 1974) on 20 – 21 May 1927, on the first non-stop flight from New York to Paris.

In 1749, Thomas Nugent, who wrote a guidebook of destinations one might seek on a Grand Tour, describes travel as:

The only means of improving the understanding and of acquiring a high degree of reputation.

The first civilized nations honoured even such as made but short voyages the title of philosophers and conquerors.

Nugent traces the lineage of those who head abroad to seek knowledge back to the Argonauts and Odysseus in Homer’s Odyssey.

I am not sure anyone would draw such a grandiose comparison with the average holidaymaker today.

Above: Thomas Nugent (1700 – 1772)

We have become a world of people speeding across the planet in quest of somewhere else and not seeing anything of anywhere we speed through.

Time is limited, we cry, and so we travel great distances at a marathon pace in order to see as much as possible.

Why is everyone in such a rush?

Above: Cover of U2’s “I Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For

We are a disconcerting congregation of the damned, discouraged and exhausted and spaced-out from driving or riding thousands of miles in a few days with the sole thought of finding a hotel room that offers the comforts of the home we so eagerly abandoned for a taste of the “exotic” somewhere else.

The most lasting impression instead is smelly gas stations, lousy breakfasts with cold coffee, hotel lobbies and ragged folks trying to shine your shoes whenever the weary traveller unwisely slumps down upon a park bench in an urban jungle.

Cover as many miles as you can between dawn and collapse.

Travel so fast that today might still be yesterday in the half-remembered remnants of the elusive moment.

See as much as you can see and remember little, if anything, of what you saw.

The speed at which you travel defines the experience.

A road is a tunnel that traps you in linear places, linear concepts and conceptions, linear time, an unwelcome refugee in Flatland.

The road provides ease and convenience, but cheats you of everything you might learn if only you had the time, courage and curiosity to leave it.

Walking is a virtue, tourism is a deadly sin.

Bruce Chatwin, What Am I Doing Here?

Above: Bruce Chatwin (1940 – 1989)

All horsepower corrupts.

Patrick Leigh Fermor, A Time of Gifts

Above: Patrick Leigh Fermor (1915 – 2011)

Perhaps we do not need to travel far.

Perhaps the beauty of treating your own home with a sense of adventure, forearmed with the local knowledge others normally don’t have time to acquire, may teach us to notice, may teach us to reflect upon Life itself and the life and lives that surround us.

Perhaps then our lives might be enriched.

Perhaps then we might finally see the world and the way we live in life-enhancing ways.

Life is too short and too precious for us to pass through it without leaving a few footprints behind us, without acquiring a few memories worth remembering.

A man’s experience in a certain place at a certain time must be unique, in some way different from the experience of others.

We need to leave a mark of the choices we make (or don’t make) that map our lives into the journeys they become.

These milestones, these footprints, are the actions we make in the moment, the ones that change our loves and our lives forever.

Henry David Thoreau wrote in the conclusion of Walden (his treatise on the succour to be found in a simple rural life away from the world of busy men):

If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer.

Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away.

Above: Henry David Thoreau (1817 – 1862)

Nevertheless, the question remains:

Why did you leave?

For ultimately you cannot escape yourself.

Wherever you go there you are.

When I was young, it seemed that life was so wonderful
A miracle, oh it was beautiful, magical
And all the birds in the trees, well they’d be singing so happily
Oh joyfully, playfully watching me
But then they send me away to teach me how to be sensible
Logical, oh responsible, practical
And they showed me a world where I could be so dependable
Oh clinical, oh intellectual, cynical

There are times when all the world’s asleep
The questions run too deep
For such a simple man
Won’t you please, please tell me what we’ve learned
I know it sounds absurd

Please tell me who I am

I said, watch what you say or they’ll be calling you a radical
Liberal, oh fanatical, criminal
Won’t you sign up your name, we’d like to feel you’re acceptable
Respectable, oh presentable, a vegetable
Oh, take it take it yeah

But at night, when all the world’s asleep
The questions run so deep
For such a simple man
Won’t you please tell me what we’ve learned
I know it sounds absurd
Please tell me who I am, who I am, who I am, who I am
‘Cause I was feeling so logical
D-d-digital
One, two, three, five
Oh, oh, oh, oh
It’s getting unbelievable

There’s a little black spot on the sun today
It’s the same old thing as yesterday
There’s a black hat caught in a high tree top
There’s a flag pole rag and the wind won’t stop
I have stood here before inside the pouring rain
With the world turning circles running ’round my brain
I guess I’m always hoping that you’ll end this reign
But it’s my destiny to be the king of pain

The Police musician Sting (Gordon Sumner) married actress Frances Tomelty on 1 May 1976.

They had two children: Joseph (born 23 November 1976) and Fuschia Katherine (“Kate“) (born 17 April 1982).

In 1980, Sting became a tax exile in Galway, Ireland.

Above: Sting

Galway (Irish: Gaillimh) is the county town of County Galway on the west coast of Ireland.

It is Ireland’s 4th largest city, with a population in 2016 of 79,934, but its historic centre on the east bank of the River Corrib is compact and colourful.

It is a party town, with live music and revellers spilling onto its pedestrianised central street.

It is also a base for exploring the scenic surrounding county.

It is a lively, buzzing colourful city that feels well-connected to the rest of the world.

Above: Images of Galway, Ireland

Eyre Square is the place to begin exploring the city, as it is the transport hub and with a cluster of hotels and eating places.

It is an attractive green space, with a pedestrianised shopping mall just south.

Artwork includes the “Galway Hooker” (a fountain styled like a traditional fishing boat), the Browne Doorway (from the house of one of the ruling families), and a bust of JF Kennedy who visited in 1963.

Above: Galway Hookers Fountain and Browne Doorway, Eyre Square, Galway, Ireland

The square is officially named after JFK but this never stuck.

Above: John F. Kennedy (1917 – 1963)

It has always been called Eyre Square after the mayor who presented this plot of land to the city in 1710.

And, may the saints preserve us, so shall it ever be.

Above: Eyre Square, Galway, Ireland

The historic spine of the city leads from Eyre Square southwest to the river, to William Street, then Shop Street, then High Street, then Quay Street, all pedestrianised, an agreeable stroll from park to pub to pub to eating place to pub.

At the top of Shop Street, Lynch’s Castle is a fine medieval town house, once home to the Lynch dynasty.

But nowadays it is a branch of Allied Irish Banks:

You are welcome to look in during opening hours, but there is not much to see.

Above: Lynch’s Castle, Galway, Ireland

The Claddagh Ring is a style of mani in fede finger ring:

Two hands join to clasp a heart.

It has been a design for wedding or engagement rings since medieval times, but it became a Galway tradition from 1700, when the jewellers worked near an Cladach, the city shore.

It became popular from the late 20th century, and legends were embellished around it as ingeniously as its designs.

Above: A Claddagh ring

The Claddagh Museum hews to the “Joyce” legend, after a man captured by Algerian corsairs who learned the design in captivity.

Above: Claddagh Museum, Galway, Ireland

He returned to Galway where of course his sweetheart had remained true.

Ah, love.

The heart is often surmounted by a crown, or isn’t, depending on your allegiances in that matter. 

Free is the museum.

(No, not the rings though).

Above: View of the Claddagh, Galway, Ireland

It is a collegiate church which doesn’t have a resident priest, but members of a seminary (a College of Vicars) take turns.

St Nicholas is the largest medieval church still in everyday use in Ireland.

It was founded in 1320 and enlarged over the following two centuries.

Above: St. Nicholas Collegiate Church, Galway, Ireland

It is dedicated to St Nicholas of Myra (modern Demre, Turkey) (circa 300 AD), patron saint of seafarers, and the story of Columbus worshipping here is credible.

Above: Nicholas of Myra (270 – 343)

Above: Photograph of the desecrated sarcophagus in the St. Nicholas Church, Demre, Turkey, where his bones were kept before they were removed and taken to Bari (Italy) in 1087

Above: Myra Rock Tombs, Demre, Turkey

Above: Christopher Columbus (1451 – 1506)

There are large tombs of the Lynch family, and a plaque at the Lynch memorial window claims to be the spot where 15th century mayor James hanged his own son Walter for killing a Spanish visitor, or so goes the tale.

Above: Lynch Memorial Window, St. Nicholas Collegiate Church, Galway, Ireland

In 2002 St Nick’s conducted the first blessing of a same-sex partnership (the Avowing Friendship Service for a lesbian couple) in an Irish church, but the Bishop prohibited any such unbiblical goings-on in future.

Above: LGBT rainbow flag

Although the church is Protestant (which it obviously wasn’t in Columbus’ day), in 2005 it was used by an RC congregation while their own St Augustine Church was refurbished.

It is also used for worship by the Romanian, Russian Orthodox and the Mar Thoma Syrian congregations.

When in Rome, as they say…..

It is X o’clock, what faith shall we follow now?

Above: Interior of St. Nicholas Collegiate Church, Galway, Ireland

The Hall of the Red Earl is the earliest medieval structure to be seen within the walls of the city.

It was built by the de Burgo family in the 13th century and was the main municipal building, acting as town hall, court house and tax collection office.

Above: Hall of the Red Earl as it once appeared

But a fragment is all that remains, protected behind glass, and it won’t take a minute to see.

The modern building adjoining is the base of Galway Civic Trust, and their guided walks through the city start here. 

Free.

Above: Ruins of the Hall of the Red Earl, Galway, Ireland

Medieval Galway had city walls, which, in 1584, were extended to protect the quays at the river outlet.

This extension, the Spanish Arch, known as “the head of the walls” (ceann an bhalla), is nowadays almost the only remnant of those walls.

In the 18th century the quays were extended, and two arches were cut in the walls to improve street access to the quays.

They were probably originally known as the “Eyre Arches“, but Galway was Ireland’s main port for trade with Spain and Portugal.

In 1755, the Lisbon Tsunami wrecked the arches, but one was later reopened, so they became known as the Spanish Arch and the Blind Arch.

It is a pleasant area to sit or stroll.

Above: Spanish Arch, Galway, Ireland

On the west bank of the River Corrib as it enters the sea is the ancient neighbourhood of The Claddagh.

For centuries it was an Irish-speaking enclave outside the city walls.

Claddagh residents were mainly fisher folk and were governed by an elected ‘King‘.

The King of the Claddagh settled or arbitrated disputes among the locals and had the privilege of a white sail on his fishing boat.

The last true king, Martin Oliver, died in 1972.

The title is still used but in a purely honorary and ceremonial context.

The current King is Michael Lynskey.

God save the King.

Long may he reign.

Above: Claddagh, Galway, Ireland

The Galway City Museum has three floors of galleries with seven long-term exhibitions on Galway’s archaeology, history and links to the sea.

Two halls have rotating exhibitions. 

The Museum has two main sections: one about the heritage of Galway and one about Irish artists from the second half of the 20th century.

Above: Galway City Museum

This Museum also houses the statue of the poet, Pádraic Ó Conaire, which was originally located in the Kennedy Park section of Eyre Square, prior to the Square’s renovation.

Free.

Above: Pádraic Ó Conaire (1882 – 1928)

Nora Barnacle (1884 – 1951) grew up in Galway and came to live here with her mother who had separated from Nora’s drunkard father.

Nora’s boyfriends had a habit of dying, so she left for Dublin where in 1904 she met James Joyce, and “knew him at once for just another Dublin jackeen chatting up a country girl“.

Soon she would have cause to bemoan his drinking, hanging about with artistic ne’er-do-wells, spendthrift ways, obscure nonsensical writing style, and his demands for English puddings.

Above: James Joyce family, Paris, 1924
Clockwise from top left –
James Joyce, Giorgio Joyce (1890 – 1976), Nora Barnacle, Lucia Joyce (1907 – 1982)

They lived mostly in Trieste and Paris then Zürich, where James died and Nora lived out her own final years.

Above: Statue of James Joyce (1882 – 1941), Trieste, Italy

Above: Plaque at rue de l’Odeon 12, Paris, France
In 1922, at this location, Mlle. Sylvia Beach published Ulysses by James Joyce

Above: James Joyce grave, Fluntern Cemetery, Zürich, Switzerland

Her house in Galway was a small museum – indeed, the smallest museum in all of Ireland – of Joyce memorabilia (including letters, but not the hotties), but was closed in 2020.

Above: Nora Barnacle House, Galway, Ireland

Above: Nora Barnacle House, Galway, Ireland

Galway Cathedral is Roman Catholic cathedral, built 1958-1965, on the site of an old prison.

It is an imposing limestone building in a mixture of retro-classical styles, which some detest.

The dome, pillars and round arches are Renaissance, while a Romanesque portico dominates the main façade.

Michael Browne (Bishop 1937-1976) published an account of the preparation, design, building work and layout.

The organ was re-conditioned in 2007 and recitals show off the acoustics.

There are regular masses, with one Sunday mass in Gaelic.

Above: Galway Cathedral, Galway, Ireland

The River Corrib flows for 6 km south from Lough Corrib to enter Galway Bay.

In 1178 the friars of Claire Galway cut a new channel out of the lough, east of the original outflow, and this became the main course of the river.

It passes the ruin of Menlo Castle to reach the northwest edge of the city at a salmon weir:

Watch them swim upriver in early summer.

The last kilometre of the river is very fast, great for driving waterwheels but not navigable, so the Eglinton Canal was cut in the 19th century, with swing bridges, locks, and side-races for mills.

The swing bridges have been replaced by fixed bridges so the Canal is no longer navigable except by kayak.

Above: Salmon Weir Bridge, Corrib River, Galway, Ireland

University Quad was the original quadrangle of the college that opened in 1849 and became one of the three colleges of Queens University of Ireland (the others being Belfast and Cork).

Since 1997, it has been known as the National University of Ireland Galway.

The Quad buildings are in mock Tudor Gothic style modelled on Oxford’s Christ Church, so their aspirations are clear.

They are nowadays the admin offices of a huge modern campus stretching from the river and canal to Newcastle Road, then continuing west of that as University Hospital. 

Free.

Above: Coat of arms of the Queen’s University of Ireland

The Promenade is the main shoreline attraction, stretching for 2 km into Salthill.

Traditionally you turned around once you had kicked the wall at the two-level diving platform at the junction of Threadneedle Road.

Lots of pubs and B&Bs along here.

It has long been hoped to extend the promenade west to Silverstrand, and to reinforce the crumbling coast against sea erosion.

By 2015, this plan had reached design stage, but with no prospect of the funding that would enable it to go to tender, and it has all gone very quiet since then.

So you can pick your own way along the headland west of Salthill but there is no paved promenade.

Above: The Promenade, Galway, Ireland

Galway Atlantaquaria is a large aquarium that majors on local marine life, so you will see sharks.

But they are Irish sharks and proud of it.

Staff display the various beasties:

Care to cuddle a huge crab? 

Mutton Island is connected to the mainland at Claddagh by a one-kilometre causeway.

(Don’t confuse it with Mutton Island off Quilty in County Clare.)

It is popular for wedding photos taking in the lighthouse foreground and cityscape background, while artfully avoiding the sewage plant.

Above: Mutton Island, Galway, Ireland

Fort Hill Cemetery, on Lough Atalia Road, is the oldest cemetery still in use in Galway City.

Inside the main gate is a memorial to sailors of the Spanish Armada who were buried here in the 1580s.

Above: Forthill, Galway, Ireland

Above: Spanish Armada sailors memorial

Above: English ships and the Spanish Armada

Rahoon Cemetery (officially known as Mount St. Joseph Cemetery), Rahoon Road, on the western edge of the city affords splendid panoramic views of the city.

Above: Rahoon Cemetery, Galway, Ireland

Among the people buried here are: 

  • Michael Bodkin (an admirer of Nora Barnacle who was the inspiration for James Joyce’s character, “Michael Furey” in The Dead

Above: Grave of Michael Bodkin

  • Michael Feeney (the “lover” in Joyce’s poem She Weeps Over Rahoon)

  • actress Siobhán McKenna 

Above: Siobhán McKenna (1922 – 1986)

Bohermore Cemetery (or the New Cemetery, as it is more popularly known), Cemetery Cross, Bohermore, was opened in 1880.

Above: Bohermore Cemetery, Galway, Ireland

It contains two mortuary chapels and is the burial place of several important Galwegians, including: 

  • Pádraic Ó Conaire, the Gaelic author 

  • William Joyce, more widely known as Lord Haw-Haw the Nazi propagandist 

Above: William Joyce (1906 – 1946)

  • Augusta, Lady Gregory, co-founder of the Abbey Theatre in Dublin

Above: Lady Augusta Gregory (1852 – 1932)

Above: Abbey Theatre, Dublin, Ireland

  • Michael Morris, 3rd Baron Killanin, a senior member of one of the Tribes of Galway and former world president of the International Olympic Committee

Above: Lord Killanin (1914 – 1999)

  • A memorial to the 91 people who died on 14 August 1959, when Dutch KLM Flight 607-E crashed into the sea 180 km (112 mi) west of Galway, can be seen just inside the main gates. Several bodies of the passengers are buried around the memorial.

Galway is known as Ireland’s Cultural Heart (Croí Cultúrtha na hÉireann) and hosts numerous festivals, celebrations and events.

Every November, Galway hosts the Tulca Festival of Visual Arts, as well as numerous festivals.

On 1 December 2014, the Director General of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) announced the official designation of Galway as a UNESCO City of Film.

In 2004, there were three dance organisations, ten festival companies, two film organisations, two Irish language organisations, 23 musical organisations, twelve theatre companies, two visual arts groups, and four writers’ groups based in the city.

Furthermore, there were 51 venues for events, most of which were specialised for a certain field (e.g. concert venues or visual arts galleries), though ten were described as being ‘multiple event‘ venues.

In 2007, Galway was named as one of the eight sexiest cities in the world.

Above: Galway, Ireland

A 2008 poll ranked Galway as the 42nd best tourist destination in the world, or 14th in Europe and 2nd in Ireland (behind Dingle).

Above: Strand Street, Dingle, Ireland

It was ranked ahead of all European capitals except Edinburgh, and many traditional tourist destinations (such as Venice).

Above: Edinburgh, Scotland

Above: Images of Venice, Italy

The New Zealand Herald listed Galway as one of ‘five great cities to visit in 2014‘.

Galway has a vibrant and varied musical scene. 

Galway and its people are mentioned in several songs, including Ed Sheeran’s Galway Girl (2017).

Above: Cover art, Galway Girl, Ed Sheeran

Many sporting, music, arts and other events take place in the city.

Galway has a diverse sporting heritage, with a history in sports ranging from horse racing, Gaelic games, soccer and rugby to rowing, basketball, motorsport, greyhound racing and others.)

Above: Galway Races

Above: Galway hurling

Above: Galway United Football Club badge

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

(A tax exile is a person who leaves a country to avoid the payment of income tax or other taxes.

It is a person who already owes money to the tax authorities or wishes to avoid being liable in the future to taxation at what they consider high tax rates, instead choosing to reside in a foreign country or jurisdiction which has no taxes or lower tax rates.

In general, there is no extradition agreement between countries which covers extradition for outstanding tax liabilities.

Going into tax exile is a form of tax mitigation or avoidance.

A tax exile normally cannot return to their home country without being subject to outstanding tax liabilities, which may prevent them from leaving the country until they have been paid.

Most countries tax individuals who are resident in their jurisdiction.

Though residency rules vary, most commonly individuals are resident in a country for taxation purposes if they spend at least six months (or some other period) in any one tax year in the country, and/or have an abiding attachment to the country, such as owning a fixed property.)

Switzerland has seen its share of tax exiles from other lands.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Noel Coward left the UK for tax reasons in the 1950s, receiving harsh criticism in the press. 

He first settled in Bermuda but later bought houses in Jamaica and Switzerland (in the village of Les Avants, near Montreux), which remained his homes for the rest of his life.

Above: Noel Coward (1899 – 1973)

David Bowie moved from the United Kingdom to Switzerland in 1976, first settling in Blonay and then Lausanne in 1982.

Above: David Bowie (1947 – 2016)

Roger Moore became a tax exile from the United Kingdom in 1978, originally to Switzerland, and divided his year between his three homes: an apartment in Monte Carlo, Monaco, a chalet in Crans-Montana, Switzerland and a home in the south of France.

Above: Roger Moore (1927 – 2017)

In April 2009, the Sunday Times Rich List estimated Sting‘s wealth at £175 million and ranked him the 322nd wealthiest person in Britain.

A decade later, Sting was estimated to have a fortune of £320 million in the 2019 Sunday Times Rich List, making him one of the ten wealthiest people in the British music industry.

In 1982, after the birth of his second child, Sting separated from Tomelty.

Above: Wedding of Sting and Frances Tomelty

Above: Trudie Styler and Sting

The split was controversial.

As The Independent reported in 2006:

Tomelty just happened to be Trudie’s best friend.

Sting and Frances lived next door to Trudie in Bayswater, West London, for several years before the two of them became lovers.

When you take the Tube in London you get from A to B very quickly.

It is undoubtedly efficient and much more practical when it comes to getting to and from work, but it is utterly hopeless when it comes to developing a sense of the place.

This is why London is so daunting for tourists, for the Tube leaves the tourist with mere snippets of memories of disparate places that have no obvious link.

London is a mish-mash of postcard pictures, each surrounded by…..

Nothing at all.

Above: Map of the London Underground

Above: The nickname “Tube” comes from the almost circular tube-like tunnels through which the small profile trains travel.

Above: London, England

The multiplication of technologies in the name of efficiency is actually eradicating free time by making it possible to maximize the time and place for production and minimize the unstructured time in between.

New timesaving technologies make most workers more productive, not more free, in a world that seems to be accelerating around them.

Too, the rhetoric of efficiency around these technologies suggests that what cannot be quantified cannot be valued – that that vast array of pleasures which fall into the category of doing nothing in particular, of woolgathering, cloud-gazing, wandering, window-shopping, are nothing but voids to be filled by something more definite, more productive, or faster-paced….

The indeterminacy of a ramble, on which much may be discovered, is being replaced by the determinate shortest distance to be traversed with all possible speed, as well as by the electronic transmissions that make real travel less necessary….

Technology has its uses, but I fear its false urgency, its call to speed, its insistence that travel is less important than arrival.

I like walking because it is slow and I suspect that the mind, like the feet, works at about three miles an hour.

If this is so, then modern life is moving faster than the speed of thought, or thoughtfulness.

Walking is about being outside, in public space, and public space is also being abandoned and eroded in older cities, eclipsed by technologies and services that don’t require leaving home, and shadowed by fear in many places (and strange places are always more frightening than known ones, so the less one wanders the city the more alarming it becomes, while the fewer the wanderers the more lonely and dangerous it really becomes).

Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking

The news, with its stories of crime-ridden chaos, leave the London of the brain flitting between terror and tourist cliché.

All its magic and history seems lost.

But take the time to walk around London, through all its parks, and you will begin to piece together the way one part of London ends and another begins.

Get lost and let serendipity show you forgotten corners and shadowy streets that are the London between Tube stations.

You might even pick up a sense of the contours that cities do a good job of hiding.

Maps are of little practical use without a landscape and a sense of place.

The slower the journey, the greater sense of meaning, the more meaningful the experience.

Historic, sprawling, sleepless London can be a wonderful place to visit, a wonderful place to live.

Monuments from the English capital’s glorious past are everywhere, from medieval banqueting halls to the great churches of Christopher Wren.

Above: Christopher Wren (1632 – 1723)

Above: St. Paul’s Cathedral, London, England

The modern skyline is dominated by a new generation of eye-grabbing, cloud-scratching, skyscrapers, colossal companions of Ferris wheels and giant walkie talkies.

Above: London Eye

Whether you spend your time relaxing in Bloomsbury’s quiet Georgian squares, drinking real ale in a Docklands riverside pub or checking out Peckham’s galleries, you can discover a London that is still identifiably a collection of villages, each with a distinct personality.

London is incredibly diverse, offering cultural and culinary delights from all around the world.

Above: Bloomsbury Square, London, England

Above: Docklands, London, England

Above: Peckham, London, England

Certainly, London is big.

In fact, it once was the largest capital city in the European Union (pre-Brexit), stretching for more than 30 miles from east to west, with a population fast approaching 9 million.

Above: Flag of the European Union

Above: Brexit flag

London’s traditional landmarks – Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Tower of London, and the like – continue to draw in millions of tourists every year.

Things change fast, though, and the regular emergence of new attractions ensures that there is plenty (too much) to do even for those who have visited before.

Above: Clock Tower, Westminster Palace, London, England

Above: Aerial view of Buckingham Palace, London, England

Above: St. Paul’s Cathedral during the Blitz, 29 December 1940

Above: Aerial view of the Tower of London

London’s museums, galleries and institutions are constantly reinventing themselves, from the V & A (Victoria and Albert) to the British Museum.

Above: Victoria and Albert Museum entrance, London, England

Above: Aerial view of the British Museum, London, England

The City boasts the Tate Modern (the world’s largest modern art museum) and the Shard (Europe’s highest building).

Above: Tate Modern, London, England

Above: The Shard, London, England

But the biggest problem for newcomers remains:

London is bewilderingly amorphous.

Local Londoners cope with this by compartmentalizing the City (and themselves), identifying strongly with the neighbourhoods in which they work and/or live, only making occasional forays outside of their comfort zones when shopping or entertainment beckons.

Above: Tower Bridge, London, England

The solution to discovering a place for what it truly is may be found by simply wandering.

In a city, every building, every storefront, opens onto a different world, compressing all the variety of human life into a jumble of possibilities made rich by all its complexities and contradictions.

The ordinary offers wonder and the people on the street are a multitude of glimpses into lives utterly different from your own.

Cities offer anonymity, variety and conjunction, qualities best basked in by walking.

A city is greater than its parts and contains more than any inhabitant will ever possibly know.

A great city makes the unknown possible and spurs the imagination.

Above: London, England

There are fewer greater delights than to walk up and down them in the evening alone with thousands of other people, up and down, relishing the lights coming through the trees or shining from the facades, listening to the sounds of music and foreign voices and traffic, enjoying the smell of flowers and good food and the air from the nearby sea.

The sidewalks are lined with small shops, bars, stalls, dance halls, movies, booths lighted by acetylene lamps.

And everywhere are strange faces, strange costumes, strange and delightful impressions.

To walk up such a street into the quieter, more formal part of town, is to be part of a procession, part of a ceaseless ceremony of being initiated into the city and rededicating the city itself.

J.B. Jackson, The Stranger’s Path

Above: John Brinckerhoff Jackson (1909 – 1996)

People and places become one another and this kind of realism can only be gained by walking.

Above: Tramway, Eskişehir, Turkey

Allow me to introduce myself – first negatively.

No landlord is my friend and brother, no chambermaid loves me, no waiter worships me, no boots admires and envies me.

No round of beef or tongue or ham is expressly cooked for me, no pigeon pie is especially made for me, no hotel-advertisement is personally addressed to me, no hotel room tapestried with great coats and railway wrappers is set apart for me, no house of public entertainment in the United Kingdom greatly cares for my opinion of its brandy or sherry.

When I go upon my journeys, I am not usually rated at a low figure in the bill.

When I come home from my journeys, I never get any commission.

I know nothing about prices, and should have no idea, if I were put to it, how to wheedle a man into ordering something he doesn’t want.

As a town traveller, I am never to be seen driving a vehicle externally like a young and volatile pianoforte van, and internally like an oven in which a number of flat boxes are baking in layers.

As a country traveller, I am rarely to be found in a gig, and am never to be encountered by a pleasure train, waiting on the platform of a branch station, quite a Druid in the midst of a light Stonehenge of samples.

And yet – proceeding now, to introduce myself positively – I am both a town traveller and a country traveller, and am always on the road.

Figuratively speaking, I travel for the great house of Human Interest Brothers, and have rather a large connection in the fancy goods way.

Literally speaking, I am always wandering here and there from my rooms in Covent Garden, London – now about the city streets: now, about the country by-roads – seeing many little things, and some great things, which, because they interest me, I think may interest others.

These are my chief credentials as the Uncommercial Traveller.”

There is a subtle state most dedicated urban walkers know, a sort of basking in solitude – a dark solitude punctuated with encounters as the night sky is punctuated with stars.

In the country, one’s solitude is geographical – one is altogether outside society, so solitude has a sensible geographical explanation and there is a kind of communion with the nonhuman.

In the city, one is alone because the world is made up of strangers.

To be a stranger surrounded by strangers, to walk along silently bearing one’s secrets and imagining those of the people one passes, is among the starkest of luxuries.

The uncharted identity with its illimitable possibilities is one of the distinctive qualities of urban living, a liberatory state for those who come to emancipate themselves from family and community expectation, to experiment with subculture and identity.

It is an observer’s state, cool, withdrawn, with senses sharpened, a good state for anybody who needs to reflect and create.

In small doses, melancholy, alienation and introspection are among life’s most refined pleasures.

Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking

It was Dr Samuel Johnson, the man many thank for our modern dictionary, who wrote in the 18th century:

You find no man, at all intellectual, who is willing to leave London.

Sir, when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life.

For there is in London all that life can afford.

Above: Samuel Johnson (1709 – 1784)

Above: Dr. Johnson’s House, London, England

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

There’s a little black spot on the sun today, that’s my soul up there
It’s the same old thing as yesterday, that’s my soul up there
There’s a black hat caught in a high tree top, that’s my soul up there
There’s a flag pole rag and the wind won’t stop, that’s my soul up there
I have stood here before inside the pouring rain
With the world turning circles running ’round my brain
I guess I’m always hoping that you’ll end this reign
But it’s my destiny to be the king of pain

Actually, it was something I said.

I’d just left my first wife – a very painful break – and I went to Jamaica to try and pull myself together.

I was fortunate to be able to go to Jamaica, I have to say, and stayed at this nice house and was looking at the sun one day.

I was with Trudie, who is now my current wife, and said:

“Look, there’s a little black spot on the sun today.”

And there’s a pause.

I said:

“That’s my soul up there.”

I was full of hyperbole.

I said that.

I went back in and wrote it down.

Above: Flag of Jamaica

Jamaica is the Caribbean country that comes with its own soundtrack, a singular rhythm beyond its beaches and resorts.

This tiny island has musical roots that reach back to the folk songs of West Africa and forward to the electronic beats of contemporary dance.

Jamaica is a musical powerhouse, which is reflected not only in the bass of the omnipresent sound systems that bombard the island, but in the lyricism of the patois language and the gospel harmonies that rise from the nation’s many churches.

Music is life and life is music in Jamaica.

And only those tone deaf to the rhythm of life fail to be swayed by its beat.

Jamaica is a powerfully beautiful island, a land of crystalline waters flowing over gardens of coral, lapping onto soft sandy beaches, rising past red soil and lush banana groves into sheer mountains.

Waterfalls surprise, appearing out of nowhere, ever present seemingly everywhere.

Jamaica is a great green garden of a land.

Understand the island’s cyclical rhythms that set the pace of Jamaican life and you may then begin to understand Jamaican culture.

You may discover that the country has a rhythm filled with concepts hidden from your understanding, but Jamaica will teach your heart to dance to its pace.

Nature is a language and Jamaica is one of its dialects.

Understanding its language we begin to experience Jamaica.

Climb the peak of Blue Mountain by sunrise, your path lit by the sparks of a myriad of fireflies.

Above: Blue Mountain, Jamaica

Attending a nightclub or a street dance, Kingston nightlife is a sweaty, lively, no-holds-barred event.

Dance, bump and grind, o ye young and young at heart.

Dance till dawn, doze till dusk, do it all again.

Above: Kingston, Jamaica night

Walk the snowy sands of Negril’s Seven Mile Beach.

Wander past the nude sunbathers.

See the sun sink behind the horizon in a fiery ball.

Plunge into the ocean to scrub your soul.

Fend off the hustlers offering redemption.

Dive into the cerulean waters that caress the cliffs.

Above: Negril, Jamaica

Get into reggae, cowboy.

On Jamaica’s east coast, past stretches of jungle and beach that is completely off the radar of most tourists, look to the hills for one of the island’s most beautiful cascades, Reach Falls.

Clamber up slippery rocks, over neon green moss and into cool mountain pools of the freshest spring water.

Dive under tunnels and through blizzards of snow white cascading foam.

Celebrate life.

Above: Reach Falls, Portland, Jamaica

Remember Marley in Bob’s creaky Kingston home crammed with memorabilia.

Above: Bob Marley (1945 – 1981)

These will not move you.

Above: Bob Marley statue, Kingston, Jamaica

Above: Bob Marley House, Kingston, Jamaica

Instead you will be drawn to his untouched bedroom adorned with objects of spiritual significance to the artist, to the small kitchen where he cooked, to the hammock in which he lay to seek inspiration from the distant mountains, to the room riddled with bullet holes where he and his wife almost died in an assassination attempt.

The quiet intimacy and the modest personal effects speak eloquently of Bob Marley’s turbulent life.

Above: Bedroom, Bob Marley House, Kingston, Jamaica

A treasure island needs a Treasure Beach.

Here, instead of huge all-inclusive resorts, you will find quiet, friendly guesthouses, artsy enclaves dreamed up by theatre set designers, Rasta retreats favoured by budget backpackers, and private villas that are some of the classiest, most elegant luxury residences in the country.

Above: Treasure Beach, Jamaica

The sleepy fishing village of Port Royal hints of past glories that made it the pirate capital of the Caribbean and once the “wickedest city on Earth“.

Above: Old Port Royal

Follow in the footsteps of pirate Sir Henry Morgan along the battlements of Fort Charles, still lined with cannons to repel invaders.

Above: Henry Morgan (1635 – 1688)

Above: Fort Charles, Port Royal, Jamaica

Become disoriented inside the Giddy House artillery store, a structure tipped at a jaunty angle.

Above: Giddy House, Port Royal, Jamaica

Admire the treasures in the Maritime Museum, rescued from the deep after 2/3 of the town sank beneath the waves in the monstrous 1692 earthquake.

Above: Port Royal, Jamaica

The resorts of Montego Bay are indeed crowded with people, but wait until you dive into the surrounding waters.

The waters are crowded, but not with bathers.

The sea is alive with a kaleidoscope of multicoloured fish and swaying sponges.

And yet despite all the tropical pastels and cool blue hues, this is a subdued seascape, a silent and delicate marine ecosystem.

Electricity for the eyes and a milestone of memory for those fortunate enough to have come here.

Above: Montego Bay, Jamaica

The best sea walls are to be found at the Point, while more advanced divers should explore the ominous (and gorgeous) Widow Makers Cave.

Above: Widowmakers Cave, Jamaica

Cockpit Country in the island’s interior is some of the most rugged terrain throughout the Caribbean, a series of jungle-clad round hills intersected by powerfully deep and sheer valleys.

Rain gathers in these mountains and water percolates through the rocks, creating an Emmental Swiss cheese of sinkholes and caves.

Above: Cockpit Country, Jamaica

Since most of the trails here are badly overgrown, the best way to appreciate the place is to hike the old Barbecue Bottom Road along its eastern edge or go spelunking in the Printed Circuit Cave.

Above: Barbecue Bottom Road, Cockpit Country, Jamaica

Above: Printed Circuit Cave, Jamaica

Set off by boat in the Black River Great Morass, gliding past spidery mangroves and trees breaded with Spanish moss, whilst white egrets flap overhead.

Local women sell bags of spicy “swimp” (shrimp) on the riverside as they point to a beautiful grinning crocodile cruising by.

Above: Black River Great Morass, Jamaica

The best experiences in Jamaica are extremely sensory affairs, but Boston Bay may be the only one that is more defined by smell than sight or sound.

It may be the birthplace of jerk, the spice rub that is Jamaica’s most famous contribution to the culinary arts.

Above: Jerk chicken

The turnoff to Boston Bay, a lovely beach, is lined with jerk stalls that produce smoked meats that redefine what heat and sweet can do as complementary gastronomic qualities.

Jerk is much like Jamaica:

Freaking amazing.

Above: Boston Bay Beach, Jamaica

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

Above: Happy, Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs

There’s a fossil that’s trapped in a high cliff wall, that’s my soul up there
There’s a dead salmon frozen in a waterfall, that’s my soul up there
There’s a blue whale beached by a springtide’s ebb, that’s my soul up there
There’s a butterfly trapped in a spider’s web, that’s my soul up there
I have stood here before inside the pouring rain
With the world turning circles running ’round my brain
I guess I’m always hoping that you’ll end this reign
But it’s my destiny to be the king of pain

King of Pain” was released as the second single in the US and the fourth single in the UK, taken from the Police‘s 5th and final album, Synchronicity (1983).

The song was released after the eight-week appearance of “Every Breath You Take” on top of the charts. 

Sting‘s fascination with Carl Jung and, to a greater extent, Arthur Koestler inspired him to write the track.

There’s a king on a throne with his eyes torn out
There’s a blind man looking for a shadow of doubt
There’s a rich man sleeping on a golden bed
There’s a skeleton choking on a crust of bread

Carl Gustav Jung (1875 – 1961) was a Swiss psychiatrist and psychoanalyst who founded analytical psychology.

Above: Carl Jung

Jung’s work has been influential in the fields of psychiatry, anthropology, archaeology, literature, philosophy, psychology, and religious studies.

Jung worked as a research scientist at Zürich’s famous Burghölzli Hospital.

Above: Klinik Burghölzli, Zürich, Switzerland

During this time, he came to the attention of Sigmund Freud, the founder of psychoanalysis.

The two men conducted a lengthy correspondence and collaborated, for a while, on a joint vision of human psychology.

Freud saw the younger Jung as the heir he had been seeking to take forward his “new science” of psychoanalysis and to this end secured his appointment as president of his newly founded International Psychoanalytical Association.

Above: Sigmund Freud (1856 – 1939)

Jung’s research and personal vision, however, made it impossible for him to follow his older colleague’s doctrine and a schism became inevitable.

This division was personally painful for Jung and resulted in the establishment of Jung’s analytical psychology as a comprehensive system separate from psychoanalysis.

Among the central concepts of analytical psychology is individuation — the lifelong psychological process of differentiation of the self out of each individual’s conscious and unconscious elements.

Jung considered it to be the main task of human development.

He created some of the best known psychological concepts, including synchronicity, archetypal phenomena, the collective unconscious, the psychological complex, extraversion and introversion.

Jung was also an artist, craftsman, builder and a prolific writer.

Many of his works were not published until after his death and some are still awaiting publication.

Above: Jung outside Burghölzli in 1910

I cannot say that I completely understand or agree with Jungian theory.

Take collective unconsciousness as an example.

According to Jung, whereas an individual’s personal unconscious is made up of thoughts and emotions which have, at some time, been experienced or held in mind, but which have been repressed or forgotten, in contrast, the collective unconscious is neither acquired by activities within an individual’s life, nor a container of things that are thoughts, memories or ideas which are capable of being conscious during one’s life.

The contents of it were never naturally “known” through physical or cognitive experience and then forgotten.

Above: Carl Jung’s Black Book

In more ways than one, these ideas are too deep for me.

According to Jung, the collective unconscious consists of universal heritable elements common to all humans, distinct from other species.

It encapsulates fields of evolutionary biology, history of civilization, ethnology, brain and nervous system development, and general psychological development.

Considering its composition in practical physiological and psychological terms, Jung wrote:

It consists of pre-existent forms, the archetypes, which can only become conscious secondarily and which give definite form to certain psychic contents.”

Jung wrote about causal factors in personal psychology, as stemming from, influenced by an abstraction of the impersonal physical layer, the common and universal physiology among all humans.

Where upon this point my response is at a Homer Simpson level of incomprehension and incredulity.

Above: Homer Simpson, The Simpsons

Jung considers that science would hardly deny the existence and basic nature of ‘instincts‘, existing as a whole set of motivating urges.

The collective unconscious acts as the frame where science can distinguish individual motivating urges, thought to be universal across all individuals of the human species, while instincts are present in all species.

Jung contends:

The hypothesis of the collective unconscious is, therefore, no more daring than to assume there are instincts.”

So, it’s not my fault, blame my instincts?

The archetype is a concept “borrowed” from anthropology to denote a process of nature.

Jung’s definitions of archetypes varied over time and have been the subject of debate as to their usefulness. 

Archetypal images, also referred to as motifs in mythology, are universal symbols that can mediate opposites in the psyche, are often found in religious art, mythology and fairy tales across cultures.

Jung saw archetypes as pre-configurations in nature that give rise to repeating, understandable, describable experiences.

In addition the concept takes into account the passage of time and of patterns resulting from transformation.

Archetypes are said to exist independently of any current event or its effect.

They are said to exert influence both across all domains of experience and throughout the stages of each individual’s unique development.

Being in part based on heritable physiology, they are thought to have “existed” since humans became a differentiated species.

They have been deduced through the development of storytelling over tens of thousands of years, indicating repeating patterns of individual and group experience, behaviours and effects across the planet, apparently displaying common themes.

Our history is a story and the expression of that story determines or results from our psychology?

Above: The Thinker, Auguste Rodin, Paris, France

According to Jung, there are “as many archetypes as there are typical situations in life“. 

He asserted that they have a dynamic mutual influence on one another.

Their alleged presence could be extracted from thousand-year-old narratives, from comparative religion and mythology.

Above: Memories, dreams and reflections, Carl Jung

So, as Leonard Cohen suggests:

Let us compare mythologies?

Above: Leonard Cohen (1934 – 2016)

According to Jung, the shadow exists as part of the unconscious mind and is composed of the traits individuals instinctively or consciously resist identifying as their own and would rather ignore, typically: repressed ideas, weaknesses, desires, instincts and shortcomings.

Above: Psychology of the Unconscious, Carl Jung

I wish I could repress my weaknesses and shortcomings!

Above: Scene from A Knight’s Tale

Much of the shadow comes as a result of an individual’s adaptation to cultural norms and expectations.

Thus, this archetype not only consists of all the things deemed unacceptable by society, but also those that are not aligned with one’s own personal morals and values.

Jung argues that the shadow plays a distinctive role in balancing one’s overall psyche, the counter-balancing to consciousness – “where there is light, there must also be shadow“.

Without a well-developed shadow (often “shadow work“, “integrating one’s shadow“), an individual can become shallow and extremely preoccupied with the opinions of others – that is, a walking persona.

Not wanting to look at their shadows directly, Jung argues, often results in psychological projection.

Individuals project imagined attitudes onto others without awareness.

The qualities an individual may hate (or love) in another, may be manifestly present in the individual, who does not see the external, material truth.

Above: Psychological Types, Carl Jung

Sounds like the old adage:

When I point my finger at you, three fingers of my hand are pointing back at me.

In order to truly grow as an individual, Jung believed that both the persona (the person we project?) and the shadow (who we really are?) should be balanced.

The shadow can appear in dreams or visions, often taking the form of a dark, wild, exotic figure.

The Shadow knows?

Jung was one of the first people to define introversion and extraversion in a psychological context.

In Jung’s Psychological Types, he theorizes that each person falls into one of two categories:

The introvert or the extravert.

The introvert is focused on the internal world of reflection, dreaming and vision.

Thoughtful and insightful, the introvert can sometimes be uninterested in joining the activities of others.

The extravert is interested in joining the activities of the world.

The extravert is focused on the outside world of objects, sensory perception and action.

Energetic and lively, the extravert may lose their sense of self in the intoxication of Dionysian pursuits.

Jungian introversion and extraversion is quite different from the modern idea of introversion and extraversion.

Modern theories often stay true to behaviourist means of describing such a trait (sociability, talkativeness, assertiveness, etc.), whereas Jungian introversion and extraversion are expressed as a perspective:

Introverts interpret the world subjectively, whereas extraverts interpret the world objectively.

By both the modern as well as the Jungian definition, I cannot decide whether I am an extraverted introvert or an introverted extravert.

In Jung’s psychological theory, the persona appears as a consciously created personality or identity, fashioned out of part of the collective psyche through socialization, acculturation and experience.

Jung applied the term persona, explicitly because, in Latin, it means both personality and the masks worn by Roman actors of the classical period, expressive of the individual roles played.

The persona, he argues, is a mask for the “collective psyche“, a mask that ‘pretends‘ individuality, so that both self and others believe in that identity, even if it is really no more than a well-played role through which the collective psyche is expressed.

Jung regarded the “persona-mask” as a complicated system which mediates between individual consciousness and the social community:

It is “a compromise between the individual and society as to what a man should appear to be“. 

But he also makes it quite explicit that it is, in substance, a character mask in the classical sense known to theatre, with its double function:

Both intended to make a certain impression on others and to hide (part of) the true nature of the individual.

The therapist then aims to assist the individuation process through which the client (re)gains their “own self” – by liberating the self, both from the deceptive cover of the persona, and from the power of unconscious impulses.

Jung has become enormously influential in management theory:

Not just because managers and executives have to create an appropriate “management persona” (a corporate mask) and a persuasive identity, but also because they have to evaluate what sort of people the workers are, to manage them (for example, using personality tests and peer reviews).

Above: Cover art, “Who are you?“, The Who

Jung’s work on himself and his patients convinced him that life has a spiritual purpose beyond material goals.

Our main task, he believed, is to discover and fulfill our deep, innate potential.

Based on his study of Christianity, Hinduism, Buddhism, Gnosticism, Taoism, and other traditions, Jung believed that this journey of transformation, which he called individuation, is at the mystical heart of all religions.

It is a journey to meet the self and at the same time to meet the Divine.

He believed that spiritual experience was essential to our well-being, as he specifically identified individual human life with the universe as a whole.

Above: Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

In 1959, Jung was asked by host John Freeman on the BBC interview program Face to Face whether he believed in God, to which Jung answered:

I do not need to believe.

I know.

Jung’s idea of religion as a practical road to individuation is still treated in modern textbooks on the psychology of religion, though his ideas have also been criticized.

Above: Carl Jung (left) and John Freeman (right), 1959

Jung had an apparent interest in the paranormal and occult. 

Jung’s ideas about the paranormal culminated in “synchronicity” – the idea that certain coincidences manifest in the world and have exceptionally intense meaning to observers.

Such coincidences have great effect on the observer from multiple cumulative aspects:

  • from the immediate personal relevance of the coincidence to the observer
  • from the peculiarities of (the nature of, the character, novelty, curiosity of) any such coincidence
  • from the sheer improbability of the coincidence, having no apparent causal link

Despite his own experiments he failed to confirm the phenomenon.

Jung proposed that art can be used to alleviate or contain feelings of trauma, fear, or anxiety and also to repair, restore and heal.

In his work with patients and his own personal explorations, Jung wrote that art expression and images found in dreams could help recover from trauma and emotional distress.

At times of emotional distress, he often drew, painted, or made objects and constructions which he recognized as more than recreational.

Above: An art therapist watches over a person with mental health problems during an art therapy workshop in Dakar, Senegal

Jung stressed the importance of individual rights in a person’s relation to the state and society.

He saw that the state was treated as “a quasi-animate personality from whom everything is expected” but that this personality was “only camouflage for those individuals who know how to manipulate it”, and referred to the state as a form of slavery.

He also thought that the state “swallowed up people’s religious forces“, and therefore that the state had “taken the place of God“— making it comparable to a religion in which “state slavery is a form of worship“.

Jung observed that “stage acts of the state” are comparable to religious displays:

Brass bands, flags, banners, parades and monster demonstrations are no different in principle from ecclesiastical processions, cannonades and fire to scare off demons.

Above: Nuremburg Rally, 5 – 10 September 1934

From Jung’s perspective, this replacement of God with the state in a mass society leads to the dislocation of the religious drive and results in the same fanaticism of the church-states of the Dark Ages — wherein the more the state is ‘worshipped‘, the more freedom and morality are suppressed.

This ultimately leaves the individual psychically undeveloped with extreme feelings of marginalization.

In the 1936 essayWotan, Jung described the influence of Adolf Hitler on Germany as “one man who is obviously ‘possessed’ has infected a whole nation to such an extent that everything is set in motion and has started rolling on its course towards perdition.

He would later say, during a lengthy interview with H.R. Knickerbocker in October 1938:

Hitler seemed like the ‘double’ of a real person, as if Hitler the man might be hiding inside like an appendix, and deliberately so concealed in order not to disturb the mechanism.

You know you could never talk to this man.

Because there is nobody there.

It is not an individual.

It is an entire nation.

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

There’s a red fox torn by a huntsman’s pack
(That’s my soul up there)
There’s a black-winged gull with a broken back
(That’s my soul up there)
There’s a little black spot on the sun today
It’s the same old thing as yesterday

Arthur Koestler (1905 – 1983) was a Hungarian British Jewish author and journalist.

Above: Arthur Koestler

Koestler was born in Budapest and, apart from his early school years, was educated in Austria.

In 1931, Koestler joined the Communist Party of Germany, but he resigned in 1938 because Stalinism disillusioned him.

Above: Symbol of the German Communist Party

Having moved to Britain in 1940, he published his novel Darkness at Noon, an anti-totalitarian work that gained him international fame.

Over the next 43 years, Koestler espoused many political causes and wrote novels, memoirs, biographies, and numerous essays.

In 1949, Koestler began secretly working with a British Cold War anti-communist propaganda department known as the Information Research Department (IRD), which would republish and distribute many of his works, and also fund his activities.

Above: Carlton House Terrace, London, England – the original home of the Information Research Department’s propaganda activities, it was the location of the German Embassy until 1945

In 1968, he was awarded the Sonning Prize “for his outstanding contribution to European culture“.

In 1972, he was made a Commander of the Order of the British Empire (CBE).

Above: CBE medal

In 1976, he was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease and in 1979 with terminal leukaemia.

On 1 March 1983, Koestler and his wife Cynthia jointly committed suicide at their London home by swallowing lethal quantities of barbiturate-based Tuinal capsules.

Above: Arthur Koestler (1905 – 1983)

As a Hungarian-born novelist who resided in England, Koestler was enthralled with parapsychology and the unexplained workings of the mind.

(He wrote the book titled The Ghost in the Machine in the late ’60s, after which the Police named their 4th album).

I’ve stood here before inside the pouring rain
With the world turning circles running ’round my brain
I guess I’m always hoping that you’ll end this reign
But it’s my destiny to be the king of pain

A music video of King of Pain was made but only released in Australia.

Above: Clip from the video of King of Pain

The lyrics in King of Pain paint exactly the kind of bleak and hopeless picture of the world that someone in the midst of a depressive episode would experience.

The imagery Sting creates relates not just to the suffering of the living, but to a kind of randomness in the world that affects all things.

Beyond the fox, the gull, the whale, the living things, there is also a hat in a tree and a rag on a flagpole, not to mention the sunspots themselves.

All of these, together, suggest a kind of negative naturalistic view of the world (and the universe), a view where things “just happen” and traits “just are“, all of it out of anyone’s control.

In this world view, pain and suffering and death are simply part of a meaningless lottery.

Sting is saying, in a nutshell:

If nature can be so random and so indifferent, then why in the world should we expect nature to be any more kind to us?

We are no more entitled than the whale, the fox or the butterfly.

Like any chaotic system, sunspots are paradoxically both random and predictable.

Each spot (“soul“) is random as to where specifically it appears and the course of its “life“.

Still, when they’re viewed collectively, sunspots are cyclical, following an 11-year pattern.

Basically, King of Pain is a guy saying how depressed he is, but it is a surprisingly beautiful song if you really listen.

It’s about a man saying he is destined to always be hurting, that the pain will never go away no matter what he does or where he goes.

He is asking for someone to help him, but ultimately knows they can’t.

This is a song about depression.

The black spot on the sun is a day (or a life) that starts out good, but is destined to tank.

And this has happened often.

History repeats itself.

It’s the same old thing as yesterday.

The rain is pouring, the wind won’t stop, the world is doing circles —

Life sucks.

The end of the reign refers to a desire for all this to stop and the destiny is his doubt that it will.

King of pain
King of pain
King of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain

And yet, somehow, somewhere, there is beauty in the dissonance.

And it is this beauty in the dissonance that reminds me once again of St. Gallen.

Above: Bird’s eye view of St. Gallen, Switzerland

Gustav Adolf (1778 – 1837), former king of Sweden (1792 – 1809), spent the last years of his life in St. Gallen and died there in 1837.

In October 1833 he went to Weisses Rössli (“The White Horse“), an inn in St. Gallen.

He decided to spend the rest of his life in quiet resignation with Rössli landlord Samuel Naf in St. Gallen.

A man born in a palace, living his last years in an inn “by no means of the first order”.

There is no monument to remind us of him.

No street is named after him.

No city tour deals with him.

He is only mentioned by two measly building plaques.

One is located on the busy arterial road to Basel’s St. Johann suburb.

The other is practically invisible above a shop window in St. Gallen’s Old Town.

This King hardly left any traces of himself.

Above: Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden

Gustav Adolf was born in Stockholm, the son of King Gustav III of Sweden and Queen Sophia Magdalena of Denmark.

Above: Sophia Magdalena of Denmark (1746 – 1813)

Early on, malicious rumors arose that Gustav III would not have been the father of the child but the nobleman, Adolf Fredik Munck, from the eastern half of Finland. 

He had been helpful in the royal couple’s sexual debut. 

Although the royal couple showed all signs of a happy marriage at the time of the Queen’s first pregnancy, the rumour was passed on, even by Gustav III’s brother Duke Karl and by him to the brothers’ mother Louise, which led to a break between the King and her, which was not addressed until Louise’s deathbed. 

The rumour was so entrenched that it was in the Swedish nobility’s Ättar paintings under Count Munck af Fulkila that he is believed to have been secretly married to Queen Sophia Magdalena, and “is presumed to be the father of Gustaf IV Adolf”

The King was nevertheless deeply involved in the upbringing of his eldest son. 

Above: Adolf Fredrik Munck (1749 – 1831)

Stockholm is the capital and largest city of Sweden as well as the largest urban area in Scandinavia.

Approximately 980,000 people live in the municipality, with 1.6 million in the urban area, and 2.4 million in the metropolitan area.

The city stretches across 14 islands where Lake Mälaren flows into the Baltic Sea.

Outside the city to the east, and along the coast, is the island chain of the Stockholm Archipelago, with some 24,000 islands, islets and skerries.

Over 30% of the city area is made up of waterways, and another 30% is made up of green areas.

The air and water here are said to be the freshest of any European capital.

Above: Stockholm, Sweden

The area has been settled since the Stone Age, in the 6th millennium BCE.

It was founded as a city in 1252 by Swedish statesman Birger Jarl.

It is also the county seat of Stockholm County and for several hundred years was also the capital of Finland which then was a part of Sweden.

Above: Flag of Stockholm

Stockholm is the cultural, media, political and economic centre of Sweden.

The Stockholm region alone accounts for over a third of the country’s GDP. 

It is among the top 10 regions in Europe by GDP per capita.

Above: Stockholm City Hall

Ranked as an alpha-global city, it is the largest in Scandinavia and the main centre for corporate headquarters in the Nordic region.

Above: Kista Science Tower, Stockholm – This is the tallest office building in Scandinavia.

As of the 21st century, Stockholm struggles to become a world leading city in sustainable engineering, including waste management, clean air and water, carbon-free public transportation, and energy efficiency.

Lake water is safe for bathing, and in practice for drinking (though not recommended).

Above: Kastellet Citadel, Kastellholmen, Stockholm

The city is home to some of Europe’s top ranking universities, such as the Stockholm School of Economics, Karolinska Institute, the KTH Royal Institute of Technology and Stockholm University.

Stockholm hosts the annual Nobel Prize ceremonies and banquet at the Stockholm Concert Hall and Stockholm City Hall.

Above: Nobel Prize medal

Untouched by wars for a long time, Stockholm has some great old architecture to see.

The exception would be Norrmalm, where much was demolished in the 1950s and 1960s to give place to what was then more modern buildings.

Looking at it the other way around, if interested in this kind of architecture this is the place to go.

Above: Hamngatan, a street in Norrmalm, Stockholm

Stockholm’s Old Town (Gamla Stan) is the beautifully preserved historical centre, best covered on foot, dominated by the Stockholm Palace (Stockholms slott).

Above: Stockholm Palace

Other highlights include: 

  • Storkyrkan, the cathedral of Stockholm, which has been used for many royal coronations, weddings and funerals

Above: The Royal Cathedral, Stockholm

  • Riddarholmskyrkan, a beautifully preserved medieval church, which hosts the tombs of many Swedish kings and royals, surrounded by former mansions.

Above: Riddarholmen Church, Stockholm, Sweden

Stockholm has several interesting churches, from medieval times to the 20th century.

Most of them are in active use by the Church of Sweden.

Above: Coat of arms of the Church of Sweden

There is also a synagogue in Östermalm and a mosque on Södermalm.

Above: The Great Synagogue, Stockholm

Above: Stockholm Mosque

The woodland cemetery, Skogskyrkogården, in Söderort is one of few UNESCO World Heritage sites from the 20th century.

Above: Skogskyrkogården, Stockholm

Also in southern Stockholm is the Ericsson Globe (Söderort), a white spherical building used for hockey games and as a concert venue.

Occasionally, at least at game nights, it is lit by coloured light.

The Globe is the heart of the Sweden Solar System, the world’s largest scale model of any kind.

With the Globe as the Sun, models of the planets are displayed at Slussen (Mercury), the Royal Institute of Technology (Venus), the Natural History Museum (Earth and Moon), Mörby Centrum (Mars), Arlanda Airport (Jupiter) and Uppsala (Saturn).

Above: The Ericson Globe, Stockholm

Stockholm has more than 70 museums, ranging from those large in size and scope to the very specialized, including the Butterfly Museum, the Spirits Museum, and the Dance Museum, to name but a few.

Above: The Museum of Spirits, Stockholm

Above: Dance Museum, Stockholm

As of 2016, many of them have free entrance.

A brief selection:

  • The Natural History Museum has extensive exhibits for all ages, including an Omnimax cinema. 

Above: Natural History Museum, Stockholm

  • The Army Museum displays Sweden’s military history, with its frequent wars from the Middle Ages until 1814, then followed by two centuries of peace.

Above: Army Museum, Stockholm

  • The Swedish History Museum features an exhibition on Vikings.

Above: Swedish History Museum, Stockholm

  • The Museum of Modern Art

Above: Museum of Modern Art, Stockholm

  • The Vasa Museum displays the Vasa, a 17th-century warship that sunk in Stockholm Harbour on its maiden voyage, and authentic objects from the height of the Swedish Empire. One of the city’s most prized museums, the Vasa Museum, is the most visited non-art museum in Scandinavia.

Above: Vasa Museum, Stockholm

Above: Vasa Museum logo

  • Skansen is an open-air museum containing a zoo featuring Swedish fauna, as well as displays of Sweden’s cultural heritage in reconstructed buildings. 

Above: Skansen Open Air Museum, Stockholm

  • Nordiska Museet displays Swedish history and cultural heritage.

Above: Nordiska Museet, Stockholm

  • The Swedish Music Hall of Fame features the ABBA Museum.

Above: Benny Andersson, Anni-Frid Lyngstad (Frida), Agnetha Fältskog, and Björn Ulvaeus (ABBA)

  • Lidingö is an open-air sculpture museum.

Above: Lindingö, Stockholm

  • Fotografiska Södermalm is a photo gallery opened in 2010.

Above: Swedish Museum of Photography, Stockholm

  • For the real Viking buff, there is Birka, the site of a former Viking city.

Above: The Viking village of Birka, Stockholm

Beyond the art museums mentioned above, Stockholm has a vivid art scene with many art galleries, exhibition halls and public art installation.

Some of the galleries are:

  • Galleri Magnus Karlsson 

  • Lars Bohman Gallery

  • Galerie Nordenhake

  • Magasin 3

The Royal Institute of Art and the University College of Arts, Crafts and Design hold regular exhibitions.

Above: The Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Stockholm

The Stockholm Metro, opened in 1950, is well known for the décor of its stations.

It has been called the longest art gallery in the world.

Some stations worth to mention are:

  • the moody dark blue cave of Kungsträdgården

Above: Kungsträdgården Metro Station

  • the giant black and white “drawings” by Siri Derkert at Östermalmstorg

Above: Östermalmstorg Metro Station

  • the celebration of science and technology at Tekniska Högskolan 

Above: Tekniska Högskolan Metro Station

  • Rissne has a fascinating timeline of human history on its walls.

Above: Rissne Metro Station

A written description in English to the art in the Stockholm Metro can be downloaded for free.

Above: Stockholm Metro logo

Sweden’s national football arena is located north of the city centre, in Solna. 

Above: Friends Arena, Stockholm

Avicii Arena, the national indoor arena, is in the southern part of the city.

Above: Avicii Arena (Ericsson Globe), Stockholm

The city was the host of the 1912 Summer Olympics.

Stockholm is the seat of the Swedish government and most of its agencies, including the highest courts in the judiciary, and the official residencies of the Swedish monarch and the Prime Minister.

Above: Flag of Sweden

The government has its seat in the Rosenbad building, the Riksdag (Swedish parliament) is seated in the Parliament House.

Above: Rosenbad Building, Stockholm

The Prime Minister’s Residence is adjacent at Sager House.

Above: Swedish Prime Minister Magdalena Andersson

Above: Sager House, Stockholm

Stockholm Palace is the official residence and principal workplace of the Swedish monarch, while Drottningholm Palace, a World Heritage Site on the outskirts of Stockholm, serves as the Royal Family’s private residence.

Above: King Carl XVI Gustav of Sweden

Above: Aerial view of Stockholm Palace

Above: Drottningholm Palace, Stockholm

Stockholm is the hub of most Swedish rail and bus traffic and has two of the country’s busiest airports nearby, so it is a good starting point for visiting other parts of Sweden.

Above: Swedish National Railways logo

Above: Stockholm Central Station

Above: Bus travel in Sweden

Above: Stockholm Arlanda Airport

Stockholm has been the setting of many books and films, including some of Astrid Lindgren’s works and Nordic Noir works, such as Stieg Larsson’s Millennium.

Above: Astrid Lindgren (1907 – 2002)

Above: Cover of Pippi Långstrump Går Ombord (Pippi Longstocking Goes On Board), 1946

Above: Stieg Larsson (1954 – 2004)

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

Above: A screenshot of the 1969 television series, showing Inger Nilsson as Pippi Longstocking

In 1792, King Gustav III was mortally wounded by a gunshot in the lower back during a masquerade ball as part of an aristocratic-parliamentary coup attempt, but managed to assume command and quell the uprising before succumbing to spesis 13 days later, a period during which he received apologies from many of his political enemies.

At the age of 13, Gustav Adolf went through the murder of his father, a trauma that left deep traces. 

Some have suggested that this also affected his life.

Above: Gustav III of Sweden (1746 – 1792)

Upon Gustav III’s assassination in March 1792, Gustav Adolf succeeded to the throne at the age of 14, under the regency of his uncle, Charles, Duke of Södermanland, who was later to become King Charles XIII of Sweden when his nephew was forced to abdicate and was banished from the country in 1809.

Above: King Charles XIII of Sweden (1748 – 1818)

In August 1796, his uncle the regent arranged for the young King to visit St. Petersburg.

Above: The Winter Palace, St. Petersburg, Russia

The intention was to arrange a marriage between the young King and the Grand Duchess Alexandra Pavlovna, a granddaughter of Russian Empress Catherine the Great.

Above: Grand Duchess Alexandra Pavlovna of Russia (1783 – 1801)

However, the whole arrangement foundered on Gustav’s unwavering refusal to allow his intended bride liberty of worship according to the rites of the Russian Orthodox Church.

Above: Cross of the Russian Orthodox Church

Nobody seems to have suspected the possibility at the time that emotional problems might lie at the root of Gustav’s abnormal piety.

On the contrary, when he came of age that year, thereby ending the regency, there were many who prematurely congratulated themselves on the fact that Sweden had now no disturbing genius, but an economical, God-fearing, commonplace monarch.

Gustav Adolf’s prompt dismissal of the generally detested Gustaf Adolf Reuterholm, the duke-regent’s leading advisor, added still further to his popularity.

Above: Gustaf Adolf Reuterholm (1756 – 1813)

On 31 October 1797 Gustav married Frederica Dorothea, granddaughter of Karl Friedrich, Margrave of Baden, a marriage which seemed to threaten war with Russia but for the fanatical hatred of the French Republic shared by the Russian Emperor Paul and Gustav IV Adolf, which served as a bond between them.

Above: Queen Frederica of Sweden (1781 – 1826)

Above: Russian Emperor Paul I (1754 – 1801)

Indeed, the King’s horror of Jacobinism (ardent or republican support of a centralized and revolutionary democracy or state) was intense, and drove him to become increasingly committed to the survival of Europe, to the point where he postponed his coronation for some years, so as to avoid calling together a Diet.

Nonetheless, the disorder of the state finances, largely inherited from Gustav III’s war against Russia, as well as widespread crop failures in 1798 and 1799, compelled him to summon the Estates to Norrköping in March 1800 and on 3 April the same year.

When the King encountered serious opposition at the Riksdag, he resolved never to call another.

Above: The Museum of Work, Strykjärnet (Clothes Iron) Building, Motala River, Norrköping, Sweden

His reign was ill-fated and was to end abruptly.

In 1803, England declared war on France. 

Behind this declaration of war was that England did not want to be challenged as the dominant colonial power.

As it was impossible for England to defeat France alone, allies were needed. 

Many countries were reluctant to enter into a Coalition against Napoleon, but the decisive factor was that in May 1805 Napoleon was crowned King of Italy. 

Above: Emperor Napoleon I of France (1769 – 1821)

Russia had already in April 1805 common cause with the British.

In August of the same year Austria and Sweden joined the Coalition.

Contributing to Sweden joining the Coalition was the assassination of Duke Louis Antoine Henri de Bourbon, which took place after France violated the territory of neutral Baden.

This assassination upset the whole of Europe and intensified Gustav’s hatred of Napoleon, but the decision for Sweden to go to war was not only based on emotions. 

Above: Duke of Énghien, Louis-Antoine de Bourbon-Condé (1772 – 1804) –  More famous for his death than for his life, he was executed on charges of aiding Britain and plotting against France, shocking royalty across Europe.

Early in 1804, Napoleon Bonaparte, then First Consul of France, heard news which seemed to connect the young Duke with the Cadoudal Affair, a conspiracy which was being tracked by the French police at the time.

It involved royalists Jean-Charles Pichegru and Georges Cadoudal who wished to overthrow Bonaparte’s regime and reinstate the monarchy.

Above: General Charles Pichegru (1761 – 1804)

Above: Georges Cadoudal Coutan (1771 – 1804)

The news ran that the Duke was in company with Charles François Dumouriez and had made secret journeys into France.

Above: General Charles François du Périer Dumouriez (1739 – 1823)

This was false.

There is no evidence that the Duke had dealings with either Cadoudal or Pichegru.

However, the Duke had previously been condemned in absentia for having fought against the French Republic in the Armée des Émigrés (counter-revolutionary armies raised outside France by and out of royalist émigrés, with the aim of overthrowing the French Revolution, reconquering France and restoring the monarchy.

Above: Troops of the Armées des émigrés at the Battle of Quiberon, 23 June – 21 July 1795

Napoleon gave orders for the seizure of the Duke.

French dragoons crossed the Rhine secretly, surrounded his house and brought him to Strasbourg (15 March 1804), and thence to the Château de Vincennes, near Paris, where a military commission of French colonels presided over by General Hulin was hastily convened to try him.

Above: Château de Vincennes, France

The Duke was charged chiefly with bearing arms against France in the late war, and with intending to take part in the new Coalition then proposed against France.

The military commission, presided over by General Hulin, drew up the act of condemnation, being incited thereto by orders from Anne Jean Marie René Savary, who had come charged with instructions to kill the Duke.

Above: General Pierre Augustin Hulin (1758 – 1841)

Above: Anne Jean Marie René Savary, 1st Duke of Rovigo (1774 – 1833)







Savary prevented any chance of an interview between the condemned and the First Consul.

On 21 March, the Duke was shot in the moat of the castle, near a grave which had already been prepared.
A platoon of the Gendarmes d’élite was in charge of the execution.

The Duke’s last words were:

I must die then at the hands of Frenchmen!





Above; The execution of the Duke of Énghien






In 1816, his remains were exhumed and placed in the Holy Chapel of the Château de Vincennes.

Royalty across Europe were shocked and dismayed at the duke’s death.

Tsar Alexander I of Russia was especially alarmed.

He decided to curb Napoleon’s power. 

Baden was the territory of the Tsar’s father-in-law, and the German principalities were part of the Holy Roman Empire of which Russia was a guarantor.







Above: Russian Tsar Alexander I (1777 – 1825)






 

Enghien was the last descendant of the House of Condé.

His grandfather and father survived him, but died without producing further heirs.

It is now known that Joséphine (Napoleon’s wife) and Madame de Rémusat had begged Bonaparte to spare the Duke, but nothing would bend his will.

Above: Joséphine de Beauharnais (1763 – 1814)

Above: Claire Élisabeth Jeanne Gravier de Vergennes, comtesse de Rémusat (1780 – 1821)

Whether Talleyrand, Fouché or Savary bore responsibility for the seizure of the Duke is debatable, as at times Napoleon was known to claim Talleyrand conceived the idea, while at other times he took full responsibility himself.

Above: Diplomat Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord (1754 – 1838)

Above: Joseph Fouché, 1st Duc d’Otrante, 1st Comte Fouché (1759 – 1820)

On his way to St. Helena and at Longwood, Napoleon asserted that, in the same circumstances, he would do the same again.

Above: Location of St. Helena

Above: Longwood House, Longwood, St. Helena

He inserted a similar declaration in his will, stating that:

It was necessary for the safety, interest, and the honour of the French people as when the Comte d’Artois, by his own confession, was supporting sixty assassins at Paris.

Above: King Charles X of France, Count of Artois (1757 – 1836)

The execution shocked the aristocracy of Europe, who still remembered the bloodletting of the Revolution.

Above: Nine émigrés executed by guillotine, 1793

Either Antoine Boulay, comte de la Meurthe (deputy from Meurthein the Corps législatif) or Napoleon’s chief of police, Fouché, said about the Duke’s execution: 

C’est pire qu’un crime, c’est une faute.”, a statement often rendered in English as:

It was worse than a crime.

It was a blunder.”

The statement is also sometimes attributed to Talleyrand.

Above: Sketch of Antoine Jacques Claude Joseph, comte Boulay de la Meurthe (1761 – 1840)

In contrast, in France the execution appeared to quiet domestic resistance to Napoleon, who soon crowned himself Emperor of the French. 

Cadoudal, dismayed at the news of Napoleon’s proclamation, reputedly exclaimed:

We wanted to make a King, but we made an Emperor.”

Above: The coronation of Napoleon I, 2 December 1804

From the beginning, Sweden was part of a seemingly strong alliance, which could have good opportunities to beat Napoleon. 

In August 1805 it was not possible to predict the Russian-Austrian loss at the Battle of Austerlitz in December 1805, the collapse of Prussia at the Battle of Jena-Auerstedt in October 1806, and the loss of the Russians in the Battle of Eylau in February 1807.

Above: Battle of Austerlitz, Austria, 2 December 1805

Above: Battle of Jena-Auerstedt, Germany, 14 October 1806

Above: Battle of Eylau, Russia, 7 – 8 February 1807

These setbacks totally changed Sweden’s chances of success.

Gustav IV Adolf’s policies and stubbornness at the time of Napoleon’s march through Europe diminished confidence in him as regent, which affected him less because he was convinced of the validity of his divine right to rule.

Above: Gustav IV Adolf’s personal coat-of-arms

Gustav IV Adolf’s personal aversion to the French Revolution and Napoleon, and his unrealistic view of Sweden’s military force led Sweden to declare war on France (Swedish-French War: 1805 – 1810). 

Contributing to the War was that Sweden was dependent on trade with Great Britain, and therefore opposed the Continental Blockade against Great Britain. 

In 1805, he joined the Third Coalition against Napoléon.

The war was fought largely on German soil. 

The starting point for the Swedish troop movements was Swedish Pomerania. 

Above: Swedish Pomerania (orange) within the Swedish Empire (green)

At the beginning of November 1805, there was an army consisting of just over 12,000 Swedes and Russians standing in Swedish Pomerania. 

The plan was to move to Hanover via the fortress Hameln, which was in French hands, where the English were on site. 

Above: Modern Hannover, Germany

The plan was delayed by Prussia’s hesitation. 

When the plan could finally be put into action, Napoleon had won his great victory at Austerlitz. 

After this, Prussia entered into a treaty with Napoleon, which meant that Swedes, Russians and Englishmen now had to leave Prussia. 

The Swedes reluctantly withdrew to Swedish Pomerania.

During the summer of 1806, Prussia changed sides in the war. 

Above: Flag of the Kingdom of Prussia (1701 – 1918)

The Swedes were now allowed to occupy Saxony-Lauenburg, but in the autumn of the same year the French reaped new successes, and Prussia and the rest of Germany were flooded by French troops. 

The Swedes were now forced to retreat to Lübeck. 

Above: Modern Lübeck, Germany

The plan was to be able to retreat from there by sea to Stralsund in Swedish Pomerania. 

Above: Modern Stralsund, Germany

However, the Swedes were surprised by the French during the preparations for sea transport.

On 6 November,1,000 Swedish soldiers had to capitulate. 

Most had already packed their rifles! 

This “battle” is called the Surprise in Lübeck.

Above: Battle of Lübeck, 7 November 1806

At the beginning of 1807, the French began a siege of Stralsund. 

As the French were also engaged in warfare elsewhere, their numbers steadily declined. 

The Swedes therefore decided to launch an offensive to lift the siege. 

The capture of Stralsund was successfully implemented on 1 April, which led to the Swedes being able to occupy the surrounding landscape, including Usedom and Wolin.

Above: Siege of Straslund, 24 July – 24 August 1807












Above: Map of Wolin, Poland






However, the French chose to attack again.
 
A 13,000-strong army, based in Szczecin, attacked the Swedes on 16 April. 




Above: Modern Szczecin, Poland




The left wing of the Swedish army had to withdraw, and another division in Ueckermünde was cut off. 

On 17 April, the cut-off force tried to get out of there by sea, but was attacked under the cargo of ships. 

The Battle of Ueckermünde ended with the capture of 677 men.

Above: Modern Ueckermünde, Germany

Gustav IV Adolf did not give up hope. 

He managed, with Russia’s help, to gather a force of 17,500 men, partly sub-standardly trained. 

Against these stood the French army of 40,000 men. 

Above: King Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden

On 13 June 1807, the Swedish army began to move, but in early July, Russia and Prussia made peace with France. 

The Swedish force was therefore forced to withdraw to Stralsund, after which they quickly retreated to Rügen. 

Above: Map of Rügen, Germany

Above: Cape Arkona, Rügen, Germany

The French command finally agreed to give the Swedes free exit. 

The French then ruled Sweden in Pomerania.

At the Peace of Paris, Sweden regained Swedish Pomerania, but it was still forced to join the Continental System, which meant that Sweden was not allowed to buy British goods. 

Above: French Empire (dark green), client states (light green), Continental System/Blockade (blue), 1812

When his ally, Russia, made peace and concluded an alliance with France at Tilsit in 1807, Sweden and Portugal were left as Great Britain’s sole European allies.

Above: Meeting of Russian Emperor Alexander I and French Emperor Napoleon I in a pavilion set up on a raft in the middle of the Neman River, Tilsit, Russia, 25 June 1807

On 21 February 1808, Russia invaded Finland, which was ruled by Sweden, on the pretext of compelling Sweden to join Napoléon’s Continental System. 

Denmark likewise declared war on Sweden. 

In just a few months almost all of Finland was lost to Russia.

Above: Notable locations of the Finnish War (21 February 1808 to 17 September 1809) fought between Sweden and Russia

As a result of the war, on 17 September 1809, in the Treaty of Hamina, Sweden surrendered the eastern third of Sweden to Russia.

The autonomous Grand Duchy of Finland within Imperial Russia was established.

By the time the peace treaties were signed, however, the King had already been deposed.

Dissatisfaction with the King had grown for several years and now his opponents took action. 

Gustav Adolf’s inept and erratic leadership in diplomacy and war precipitated his deposition through a conspiracy of army officers.

An uprising broke out in Värmland (a county north of Stockholm) where Lieutenant Colonel Georg Adlersparre on 7 March 1809 took command of the Northern Army, and triggered the Coup of 1809 by raising the flag of rebellion in Karlstad and starting to march upon Stockholm.  

Above: Georg Adlersparre (1760 – 1835)

When this news reached Stockholm, Gustav Adolf decided to leave the capital and take command of the southern army, in order to then be able to strike at the rebels. 

The coup plotters, some of whom were in Stockholm, realized that they needed to strike quickly and prevent the King from travelling. 

On 13 March, Carl Johan Adlercreutz and six other officers marched up to the Castle and declared that:

The whole nation is astonished at the unfortunate position of the Kingdom and the King’s promised departure and is determined to turn it down.

Above: Carl Johan Adlercreutz (1757 – 1815)

To prevent the King from joining loyal troops in Scania (southernmost Sweden), seven of the conspirators led by Adlercreutz broke into the royal apartments in the Palace and seized the King.

Above: The arrest of King Gustav IV Adolf, 13 March 1809

They imprisoned him and his family in Gripsholm Castle.

Above: Gripsholm Castle, Mariefred, Sweden

On 12 March 1809, King Gustav IV Adolf left Queen Frederica and their children at Haga Palace to deal with the rebellion of Georg Adlersparre.

Above: Haga Castle, Stockholm

The day after he was captured at the Royal Palace in Stockholm, imprisoned at Gripsholm Castle and deposed in favour of his uncle, who succeeded him as Charles XIII of Sweden on 6 June.

According to the terms of the deposition made on 10 May 1809, Frederica was allowed to keep the title of Queen even after the deposition of her spouse.

Frederica and her children were kept under guard at Haga Palace.

The royal couple was initially kept separated because the coup leaders suspected her of planning a coup.

During her house arrest, her dignified behavior reportedly earned her more sympathy than she had been given her entire tenure as Queen.

Her successor, Queen Charlotte, who felt sympathy for her and often visited her, and wished to preserve the right to the throne for Frederica’s son, Gustav.

Frederica told her that she was willing to separate from her son for the sake of succession, and requested to be reunited with her spouse.

Her second request was granted her after intervention from Queen Charlotte.

Above: Queen Charlotte of Sweden and Norway (1759 – 1818)

Frederica and her children joined Gustav Adolf at Gripsholm Castle after the coronation of the new monarch on 6 June.

The relationship between the former King and Queen was reportedly well during their house arrest at Gripsholm.

During her house arrest at Gripsholm Castle, the question of her son Crown Prince Gustav’s right to the throne was not yet settled and a matter of debate.

Above: Prince Gustav of Vasa (1799 – 1877)

There was a plan by a military faction led by General Eberhard von Vegesack to free Frederica and her children from the arrest, have her son declared monarch and Frederica as regent of Sweden during his minority.

These plans were in fact presented to her, but she declined:

The Queen displayed a nobility in her feelings, which makes her worthy of a crown of honor and placed her above the pitiful earthly royalty.

She did not listen to the secret proposals, made to her by a party, who wished to preserve the succession of the Crown Prince and wished, that she would remain in Sweden to become the regent during the minority of her son.

She explained with firmness, that her duty as a wife and mother told her to share the exile with her husband and children.

Above: Eberhard von Vegesack (1763 – 1818)

The King’s uncle, Duke Charles (Karl), later King Charles XIII, was thereupon persuaded to accept the leadership of a provisional government, which was proclaimed the same day.

A Diet, hastily summoned, solemnly approved of the revolution.

On 29 March, Gustav IV Adolf, to save the Crown for his son, voluntarily abdicated, but on 10 May the Riksdag of the Estates, dominated by the Army, declared that not merely Gustav but his whole family had forfeited the throne, perhaps an excuse to exclude his family from succession based on the rumours of his illegitimacy.

A more likely cause, however, is that the revolutionaries feared that Gustav’s son, if he inherited the throne, would avenge his father’s deposition when he came of age.

Above: Prince Gustav Vasa of Sweden

In the writing of history, the image of Gustav IV Adolf and his government was long drawn by the men of 1809 and their successors. 

They portrayed Gustav IV Adolf as an untalented and emotionally tense person whose policy was dictated by temporary and emotional factors that occasionally took on purely mind-boggling expressions, medals awarded by Gustaf IV Adolf were recalled and replaced with new ones without his name and signs, emblems, memorials and the like. which bore his name was removed. 

This is one of the few cases in Sweden where the state and its authorities have made an attempt at damnatio memoriae to erase the memory of someone.

Above: An example of damnatio memoriae, Roman Emperor Septimius Severus (145 – 211) and his family with the face of his son Geta (189 – 211) erased

On 5 June, Gustav’s uncle was proclaimed King Charles XIII, after accepting a new liberal Constitution, which was ratified by the Diet the next day.

Above: Royal monogram of King Charles XIII of Sweden

Gustav and his family were expelled out of the country.

Via three separate carriages. Gustav Adolf and Frederica travelled in one carriage, escorted by General Skjöldebrand.

Their son Gustav travelled in the second with Colonel Baron Posse.

Their daughters (Sophie, Amalia and Cecilia) and their governess Von Panhuys travelled in the last carriage escorted by Colonel von Otter.

Frederica was offered to be escorted with all honours due to a member of the House of Baden if she travelled alone, but declined and brought no courtier with her, only her German chamber maid Elisabeth Freidlein.

The family left for Germany by ship from Karlskrona on 6 December 1809. 

Above: Images from modern Karlskrona, Sweden

Thus the exile of a king and his family began.

Here is where this instalment of his story (and my own) ends.

To be continued…..

In my eyes
Indisposed
In disguises no one knows
Hides the face
Lies the snake
And the sun in my disgrace
Boiling heat
Summer stench
Neath the black, the sky looks dead
Call my name
Through the cream
And I’ll hear you scream again

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Stuttering
Cold and damp
Steal the warm wind, tired friend
Times are gone
For honest men
Sometimes, far too long for snakes
In my shoes
Walking sleep
In my youth, I pray to keep
Heaven send
Hell away
No one sings like you anymore

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come? (Black hole sun, black hole sun)

Hang my head
Drown my fear
Till you all just disappear

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Lonely Planet, The World / Rough Guide to London / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Carl Franz and Lorena Havens, The People’s Guide to Mexico / Susan Griffith, Work Your Way Around the World / Dan Kieran, The Idle Traveller: The Art of Slow Travel / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Chiang Lee, The Silent Traveller in Oxford

Canada Slim and the Golden Fleece

Eskişehir, Turkey, Sunday 15 May 2022

Thursday and I was once again back on the road to Denizli.

Once again the bus stopped at Kütahya and Afyonkarahisar, Dinar and Dazkiri, with a rare request stop today at Sandikli, before finally arriving at Denizli en route to the bus’s final destinations of Aydin and Bodrum.

The return trip the next day did not vary either:

As usual, there are stops in Uşak and Kütahya before the return back to Eskişehir.

Another week means another day spent in the textile factories of Denizli.

Above: View of Denizli from above

Denizli is an industrial city in the southwestern part of Turkey and the eastern end of the alluvial valley formed by the river Büyük Menderes, where the plain reaches an elevation of about 350 metres (1,148 ft).

The Büyük Menderes River (historically the Maeander or Meander, from Ancient Greek: Μαίανδρος, Maíandros / Turkish: Büyük Menderes Irmağı) rises in west central Turkey near Dinar before flowing west through the Büyük Menderes graben (fault formations) until reaching the Aegean Sea in the proximity of the ancient Ionain city of Miletus.

Above: Hancalar Bridge, Menderes River, Çal, Denizli Province

The word “meander” is used to describe a winding pattern, after the River.

Above: The Great Mederes River

The Büyük Menderes basin in Turkey has five wetlands and the Büyük Menderes river delta is an internationally recognised Important Bird and Biodiversity Area (IBA) for breeding and wintering water birds.

The cities Denizli and Uşak in the area are home to 60% of Turkey’s textile and leather exports.

The Büyük Menderes River contains domestic wastewater originating from settlements and industrial wastewater from industrial establishments.

It is polluted by the effects of excessive, untimely and incorrect use of fertilizers and pesticides. 

From a bird’s eye view of the basin, it is seen that the inadequacy of land use designs, the ruthless destruction of soil and biodiversity with chemicals as a result of too much production, the increase in population and the deterioration of the life balance. 

The discharge of technological, domestic and urban wastes into Büyük Menderes, which continues its function as a waste receiver and transporter environment, has resulted in the deterioration of the ecological balance formed over millions of years in only a few decades. 

In Denizli, Usak and Aydin, there are 20 types of industrial establishments that drain their wastewater into the Büyük Menderes river without treatment. 

According to the DSI basin statistics, the number of municipalities in the Büyük Menderes River Basin is given as 165. 

Only six of them have sewerage networks. 

In the lower basins, the pollution is getting more intense and the river ecosystem is about to disappear.

The region is under threat as the river delta has reached critical pollution levels.

Above: The Great Menderes River

From the food we eat to the fibres we wear, every living thing relies on water.

Climate change, population growth and changing consumption patterns have put fresh water systems at greater risk.

For this reason, the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) has developed a joint project with government, businesses and communities to ensure a sustainable future for the beautiful Büyük Menderes region.

Through the implementation of water stewardship this programme aims to serve as a model in the conservation and sustainable use of water resources that can be scaled up to other basins in Turkey.” World Wildlife Fund for Nature

Denizli is located in the country’s Aegean region.

The city has a population of about 646,278 (2018 census).

This is a jump from 389,000 in 2007, due to the merger of 13 municipalities and 10 villages when the area under Denizli Municipality jurisdiction increased almost fivefold and the population around 50%.

Denizli (Municipality) is the capital city of Denizli Province.

Denizli has seen economic development in the last few decades, mostly due to textile production and exports.

Above: Denizli city emblem

Denizli, an industrial, export and trade centre, is also home to nearly 65,000 university students. 

The literacy rate in Denizli is around 99%. 

As a result of the high importance given to education in the Province, it has a permanent place in the interprovincial success ranking especially in secondary education and university entrance exams such as ÖSS, LGS, SBS, being in the first three places (mostly 1st place) every year. 

For this reason, Denizli Province has an image that is known throughout the country for its high education level and quality, and its successful students. 

In addition, Pamukkale University, established on 3 July 1992, brought a different socio-economic and cultural dynamism and vitality to Denizli.

Above: Logo of Pamukkale University

Hosting millions of local and foreign tourists a year, Denizli is not only a tourism city, but also an education, congress, cultural and artistic centre with local, national and international events.

Denizli attracts visitors to the nearby mineral-coated hillside hot spring of Pamukkale and red thermal water spa hotels of Karahayit just 5 kilometres (3 miles) north of Pamukkale.

Above: Pamukkale

Above: Karahayit

Recently, Denizli became a major domestic tourism destination due to the various types of thermal waters in Sarayköy, Central/Denizli (where Karahayıt and Pamukkale towns are located), Akköy (Gölemezli), Buldan (Yenicekent) and Çardak districts.

Above: Saraköy

Above: Akköy

Above: Buldan

Above: Çardak

The ancient ruined city of Hierapolis, as well as ruins of the city of Laodicea on the Lycus, the ancient metropolis of Phrygia.

Above: Hierapolis

Above: Laodicea on the Lycus

Also Honaz, about 10 mi (16 km) west of Denizli, was in the 1st century CE the city of Colossae.

Above: Colossae

Denizli is a new city, located on the northern slopes of Akdağ (Babadağ), on a plateau slightly split by the streams that meet the Aksu Stream, a tributary of Büyük Menderes.

The main city of the province was Laodicea, seven kilometers north from here.

Laodicea (Laodikeia), devastated as a result of the wars between the Seljuks and Byzantines and with its waterways deteriorated, started to be abandoned and settlement started from the 11th century to move towards Denizli, where there are abundant water resources. 

Ibn Battuta visited the city, noting that:

In it there are seven mosques for the observance of Friday prayers, and it has splendid gardens, perennial streams, and gushing springs.

Most of the artisans there are Greek women, for in it are many Greeks who are subject to the Muslims and who pay dues to the sultan, including the jizyah and other taxes.

Above: Ibn Battuta (1304 – 1369)

In the 17th century, the Turkish traveler Evliya Çelebi visited Denizli and recorded the town as follows:

The city is called by Turks Denizli (which means has abundant of water sources like sea in Turkish) as there are several rivers and lakes around it.

In fact it is a four-day trip from the sea.

Its fortress is a square shape built on flat ground.

It has no ditches.

Its periphery is 470 steps long.

It has four gates.

These are:

  • the Painter’s Gate in the north
  • the Saddlemaker’s Gate in the east
  • the new Mosque Gate in the south
  • the Vineyard Gate in the west.

There are some 50 armed watchmen in the fortress and they attend the shops.

The main city is outside the fortress with 44 districts and 3,600 houses.

There are 57 small and large mosques and district masjids, seven madrashas, seven children’s schools, six baths and 17 dervish lodges.

As everybody lives in vineyards the upper classes and ordinary people do not flee from each other.”

Above: Statue of Evliya Çelebi (1611 – 1682)

Denizli suffered great damage during the earthquake of 1703 and was later rebuilt. 

Denizli, located on a natural road that enters the interior from the Aegean coasts, became rapidly crowded as a result of the development of this location and the agricultural activities around it, especially after the improvement of the highways in the 1950s.

Its population, which was 22,000 in 1950, has increased approximately 25 times in the past 60 years. 

Above: Denizli Museum

Denizli is now one of the most developed cities of Turkey. 

It is among the most important capitals of textile in the world. 

It has a good reputation in the US and the European Union markets for towels, bathrobes and home textiles. 

In addition, Serinhisar District meets 85% of Turkey’s need for chickpeas and chickpea products. 

Denizli is among Turkey’s ten largest economies. 

Its weather and nature reflect the averages of the Aegean region.

The weather is hot in Denizli in summers, whereas in winters, it may occasionally be very cold with snow on the mountains that surround the city.

Some years, snow can be observed in the urban areas.

Springs and autumns are rainy, mild climate, warm.

The vegetation of Denizli is maquis (small shrubs). 

59% of Denizli is covered with forests, 10% is meadows and pastures, 43% is cultivated and planted land. 

The part that is not suitable for cultivation is only 1%.

The vegetation of the Province is mostly composed of forest trees and maquis unique to the Mediterranean climate. 

There are tree species such as larch, red pine, cedar, juniper, oak, chestnut, plane tree, ash, alder (Paint tree), log in the forests. 

The wide areas on the foothills below the borders where the forests begin are covered with bushes and heaths.

I can often see part of these forests from my room in the Hotel Park Dedeman.

The economy of Denizli is based on industry and trade. 

Denizli is an export and industrial city. 

Its service sector is also highly developed and has grown tremendously in the last 15 years. 

Denizli has also exported copper wire to the US.

45% of the population is engaged in agriculture, fishing, beekeeping, forestry and animal husbandry. 

30% of all income comes from industry. 

Denizli is one of the leading exporting cities known as “Anatolian Tigers” in Turkey. 

It is one of Turkey’s locomotive industrial cities with billions of dollars in exports every year.

 

Although Denizli is known as the capital of textile in Turkey, due to the economic losses experienced in textile in recent years, the economic balances have shifted to the marble and natural stone sector. 

Travertine and its derivatives marble and natural stone are exported from Denizli to all countries of the world.

Industry in Denizli is highly developed.

Weaving, energy, automotive sub-industry, mining and metal industries are at the forefront.

Above: Denizli travertine

textile is a flexible material made by creating an interlocking bundle of yarns or threads, which are produced by spinning raw fibers (from either natural or synthetic sources) into long and twisted lengths.

Textiles are then formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, tatting, felting, bonding or braiding these yarns together.

The related words “fabric” and “cloth” and “material” are often used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile.

However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage.

A textile is any material made of interlacing fibers, including carpeting and geotextiles, which may not necessarily be used in the production of further goods, such as clothing and upholstery.

The word ‘textile‘ comes from the Latin adjective textilis, meaning ‘woven‘, which itself stems from textus, the past participle of the verb texere, ‘to weave‘.

Originally applied to woven fabrics, the term “textiles” is now used to encompass a diverse range of materials, including fibres, yarns and fabrics, as well as other related items.

fabric is a material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, felting, stitching, crocheting or bonding that may be used in the production of further products, such as clothing and upholstery, thus requiring a further step of the production. 

The word ‘fabric‘ also derives from Latin, with roots in the Proto-Indo-European language.

Stemming most recently from the Middle French fabrique, (‘building or thing made‘), and earlier from the Latin fabrica (‘workshop; an art, trade; a skillful production, structure, fabric‘), the noun fabrica stems from the Latin faber, (‘artisan who works in hard materials‘), which itself is derived from the Proto-Indo-European dhabh, meaning ‘to fit together‘.

Cloth may also be used synonymously with fabric, but often specifically refers to a piece of fabric that has been processed or cut.

The word ‘cloth‘ derives from the Old English clað, meaning a ‘cloth, woven or felted material to wrap around ones body‘, from the Proto-Germanic kalithaz, similar to the Old Frisian klath, the Middle Dutch cleet, the Middle High German kleit and the German kleid, all meaning ‘garment‘.

The precursor of today’s textiles includes leaves, barks, fur pelts, and felted cloths.

The Banton Burial Cloth, the oldest existing example of warp ikat in Southeast Asia, is displayed at the National Museum of the Philippines.

The cloth was most likely made by the native Asian people of the northwest Romblon.

Above: Remnants of the Banton Burial Cloth

Above: Logo of the National Museum of the Philippines

The first clothes, worn at least 70,000 years ago and perhaps much earlier, were probably made of animal skins and helped protect early humans from the elements. At some point, people learned to weave plant fibers into textiles.

The discovery of dyed flax fibers in a cave in the Republic of Georgia dated to 34,000 BCE suggests that textile-like materials were made as early as the Paleolithic era.

The speed and scale of textile production have been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern manufacturing techniques.

Above: Flag of the Republic of Georgia

Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and for containers, such as bags and baskets.

In the household, textiles are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels, coverings for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in art.

In the workplace, textiles can be used in industrial and scientific processes, such as filtering.

Miscellaneous uses include flags, backpacks, tents, nets, handkerchiefs, cleaning rags, and transportation devices, such as balloons, kites, sails and parachutes.

Textiles are also used to provide strengthening in composite materials such as fibreglass and industrial geotextiles.

Textiles are used in many traditional hand crafts, such as sewing, guilting and embroidery.

Textiles produced for industrial purposes, and designed and chosen for technical characteristics beyond their appearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles. 

Technical textiles include:

  • textile structures for automotive applications
  • medical textiles (such as implants)
  • geotextile (reinforcement of embankments)
  • agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection)
  • protective clothing (such as clothing resistant to heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests).

Due to the often highly technical and legal requirements of these products, these textiles are typically tested in order to ensure they meet stringent performance requirements.

Other forms of technical textiles may be produced to experiment with their scientific qualities and to explore the possible benefits they may have in the future.

Threads coated with zinc oxide nanowires, when woven into fabric, have been shown capable of “self-powering nanosystems“, using vibrations created by everyday actions like wind or body movements to generate energy.

Above: Textile market, Karachi, Pakistan

Textiles are made from many materials, with four main sources:

  • animal (wool, silk)
  • plant (cotton, flax, jute, bamboo)
  • mineral (asbestos, glass fibre)
  • synthetic (nylon, polyester, acrylic, rayon).

The first three are natural.

In the 20th century, they were supplemented by artificial fibers made from petroleum.

Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest microfibre made of strands thinner than one denier to the sturdiest canvas. 

Textile manufacturing terminology has a wealth of descriptive terms, from light gauze-like gossamer to heavy grosgrain cloth and beyond.

Above: Fabric shop, Mukalia, Yemen



Animal textiles are commonly made from hair, fur, skin or silk (in the case of silkworms).

  • Wool refers to the hair of the domestic sheep or goat, which is distinguished from other types of animal hair in that the individual strands are coated with scales and tightly crimped.

Wool as a whole is coated with a wax mixture known as lanolin (sometimes called wool grease), which is waterproof and dirtproof.

The lanolin and other contaminants are removed from the raw wool before further processing.

Woolen refers to a yarn produced from carded, non-parallel fibre, while worsted refers to a finer yarn spun from longer fibers which have been combed to be parallel.

  • Other animal textiles which are made from hair or fur are alpaca wool, vicuna woolllama wool, and camel hair, generally used in the production of coats, jackets, ponchos, blankets and other warm coverings.
  • Cashmere, the hair of the Indian cashmere goat, and mohair, the hair of the North African angora goat, are types of wool known for their softness and are used in the production of sweaters and scarfs.
  • Angora refers to the long, thick, soft hair of the angora rabbit. 
  • Qiviut is the fine inner wool of the muskox.

Above: Alpaca wool textiles, Otavalo Artisan Market, Ecuador

Wool is produced by follicles which are small cells located in the skin.

These follicles are located in the upper layer of the skin (called the epidermis) and push down into the second skin layer (called the dermis) as the wool fibers grow.

Follicles can be classed as either primary or secondary follicles.

Primary follicles produce three types of fiber:

  • kemp
  • medullated fibers
  • true wool fibers.

Secondary follicles only produce true wool fibers.

Medullated fibers share nearly identical characteristics to hair and are long but lack crimp and elasticity.

Kemp fibers are very coarse and shed out.

Above: Wool before processing

Wool’s crimp and, to a lesser degree, scales, make it easier to spin the fleece by helping the individual fibers attach to each other, so they stay together.

Because of the crimp, wool fabrics have greater bulk than other textiles.

They hold air, which causes the fabric to retain heat.

Wool has a high specific thermal resistance, so it impedes heat transfer in general.

This effect has benefited desert peoples, such as the Bedouins and Tuaregs, who use wool clothes for insulation.

Felting of wool occurs upon hammering or other mechanical agitation as the microscopic barbs on the surface of wool fibers hook together.

Felting generally comes under two main areas: dry felting or wet felting.

Wet felting occurs when water and a lubricant (especially an alkali such as soap) are applied to the wool which is then agitated until the fibers mix and bond together.

Temperature shock while damp or wet accentuates the felting process.

Some natural felting can occur on the animal’s back.

Above: Wool samples

Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from hair/fur:

It is crimped and elastic.

The amount of crimp corresponds to the fineness of the wool fibers.

A fine wool, like merino, may have up to 40 crimps per centimetre (100 crimps per inch), while coarser wool, like karakul, may have less than one crimp per centimeter (one or two crimps per inch).

In contrast, hair has little, if any, scale, and no crimp, and little ability to bind into yarn.

Above: Unshorn Merino sheep

On sheep, the hair part of the fleece is called kemp.

The relative amounts of kemp to wool vary from breed to breed and make some fleeces more desirable for spinning, felting or carding into batts for quilts or other insulating products, including the famous tweed cloth of Scotland.

Wool fibers readily absorb moisture, but are not hollow.

Wool can absorb almost one-third of its own weight in water.

Wool absorbs sound like many other fabrics.

It is generally a creamy white color, although some breeds of sheep produce natural colors, such as black, brown, silver, and random mixes.

Above: Wool samples, Auction House, Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia

Wool ignites at a higher temperature than cotton and some synthetic fibers.

It has a lower rate of flame spread, a lower rate of heat release, a lower heat of combustion, and does not melt or drip. 

It forms a char that is insulating and self-extinguishing, and it contributes less to toxic gases and smoke than other flooring products when used in carpets.

Wool carpets are specified for high safety environments, such as trains and aircraft.

Wool is usually specified for garments for firefighters, soldiers, and others in occupations where they are exposed to the likelihood of fire.

Above: Fleece of fine New Zealand Merino wool and combed wool top on a wool table

Wool causes an allergic reaction in some people.

Above: Johnny Galecki (Leonard Hofstadter), The Big Bang Theory

Animal breeding has been an important part of human life throughout history and has provided great benefits.

The aim of animal breeding is to conduct profitable breeding by raising high-yielding and healthy animals.

The elements that determine the profitability of animal breeding are breed of the animals raised, breeding techniques and market conditions.

On a good day, outside of Dinar or Uşak I sometimes see flocks of sheep.

Suddenly it is a timeless moment.

Sheep have had a strong presence in many cultures, especially in areas where they form the most common type of livestock.

In the English language, to call someone a sheep or ovine may allude that they are timid and easily led.

In contradiction to this image, male sheep are often used as symbols of virility and power; the logos of the Los Angeles Rams football team and the Dodge Ram pickup truck allude to males of the bighorn sheep, Ovis canadensis.

Above: Uniforms of the Los Angeles Rams National Football League (NFL) team

Above: Bighorn ram

Counting sheep is popularly said to be an aid to sleep.

Some ancient systems of counting sheep persist today.

Sheep also enter in colloquial sayings and idiom frequently with such phrases as “black sheep“.

To call an individual a black sheep implies that they are an odd or disreputable member of a group.

This usage derives from the recessive trait that causes an occasional black lamb to be born into an entirely white flock.

These black sheep were considered undesirable by shepherds, as black wool is not as commercially viable as white wool.

Citizens who accept overbearing governments have been referred to by the portmanteau neologism of sheeple.

(Sheeple is a derogatory term that highlights the passive herd behavior of people easily controlled by a governing power or market fads which likens them to sheep, a herd animal that is “easily” led about.

The term is used to describe those who voluntarily acquiesce to a suggestion without any significant critical analysis or research, in large part due to the majority of a population having a similar mindset.

Above: Donald Trump

Word Spy defines it as “people who are meek, easily persuaded, and tend to follow the crowd (sheep + people)“.

Merriam-Webster defines the term as “people who are docile, compliant, or easily influenced: people likened to sheep“.

The word is pluralia tantum, which means it does not have a singular form.

While its origins are unclear, the word was used by W. R. Anderson in his column Round About Radio, published in London 1945, where he wrote:

The simple truth is that you can get away with anything, in government.

That covers almost all the evils of the time.

Once in, nobody, apparently, can turn you out.

The People, as ever (I spell it “Sheeple”), will stand anything.

Above: Logo of Turkey’s reigning government party, the Justice and Development Party (AKP)

Another early use was from Ernest Rogers, whose 1949 book The Old Hokum Bucket contained a chapter entitled “We the Sheeple“.

The Wall Street Journal first reported the label in print in 1984.

The reporter heard the word used by the proprietor of the American Opinion bookstore.

In this usage, taxpayers were derided for their blind conformity as opposed to those who thought independently.

The term was first popularized in the late 1980s and early 1990s by conspiracy theorist and broadcaster Bill Cooper on his radio program The Hour of the Time which was broadcast internationally via shortwave radio stations.

The program gained a small, yet dedicated following, inspiring many individuals who would later broadcast their own radio programs critical of the United States government.

Above: Bill Cooper (1943 – 2001)

This then led to its regular use on the radio program Coast to Coast AM by Art Bell throughout the 1990s and early 2000s.

These combined factors significantly increased the popularity of the word and led to its widespread use.

Above: Art Bell (1945 – 2018)

The term can also be used for those who seem inordinately tolerant, or welcoming, of widespread policies.

In a column entitled “A Nation of Sheeple“, columnist Walter E. Williams writes:

Above: Walter E. Williams (1936 – 2020)

Americans sheepishly accepted all sorts of Transportation Security Administration nonsense.

In the name of security, we’ve allowed fingernail clippers, eyeglass screwdrivers, and toy soldiers to be taken from us prior to boarding a plane.“)

Somewhat differently, the adjective “sheepish” is also used to describe embarrassment.

In antiquity, symbolism involving sheep cropped up in religions in the ancient Near East, the Middle East, and the Mediterranean area: Çatalhöyük, ancient Egyptian religion, Canaanite and Phoenician traditions, Judaism, Greek religion, and others.

Religious symbolism and ritual involving sheep began with some of the first known faiths:

Skulls of rams (along with bulls) occupied central placement in shrines at the Çatalhöyük settlement in 8,000 BCE.

Above: Ruins of Çatalhöyük, Konya Plain, Turkey

In ancient Egyptian religion, the ram was the symbol of several gods: Khnum, Heryshaf and Amun (in his incarnation as a god of fertility).

Above: Pyramids of Giza, Cairo, Egypt

Other deities occasionally shown with ram features include the goddess Ishtar, the Phoenician god Baal-Hamon, and the Babylonian god Ea-Oannes.

Above: Goddess Ishtar on an Akkadian seal

In Madagascar, sheep were not eaten as they were believed to be incarnations of the souls of ancestors.

Above: Flag of Madagascar

There are many ancient Greek references to sheep: that of Chrysomallos, the golden-fleeced ram, continuing to be told through into the modern era. 

Astrologically, Aries, the ram, is the first sign of the classical Greek zodiac.

The sheep is the eighth of the twelve animals associated with the 12-year cycle of in the Chinese zodiac, related to the Chinese calendar.

In Mongolia, shagai are an ancient form of dice made from the cuboid bones of sheep that are often used for fortunetelling purposes.

Above: Flag of Mongolia

Above: Shagai

Sheep play an important role in all the Abrahamic faiths: 

Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, Moses, King David and the Islamic prophet Muhammad were once all shepherds.

Above: Guercino’s Abraham (2150 – 1975 BCE), Banishment of Hagar and Ismael, 1657

Above: (right foreground) Isaac

Above: Rembrandt’s Jacob wrestling with the angel, 1659

Above: Guido Reni’s Moses with the Tables of the Law, 1624

Above: Gerard von Horst’s King David (r. 1010 – 970 BCE) playing the harp, 1622







Above: “Muhammad, the Messenger of God“, inscribed on the gates of the Prophet’s Mosque, Medina, Saudi Arabia

According to the Biblical story of the Binding of Isaac, a ram is sacrificed as a substitute for Isaac after an angel stays Abraham’s hand.

Above: Caravaggio’s Sacrifice of Isaac, 1603

(In the Islamic tradition, Abraham was about to sacrifice Ishmael). 

Above: Ibrahim’s Sacrifice, Timurid Anthology, 1411

Eid al-Adha is a major annual festival in Islam in which sheep (or other animals) are sacrificed in remembrance of this act.

Sheep are occasionally sacrificed to commemorate important secular events in Islamic cultures.

Above: Eid prayer, Badshahi Mosque, Lahore, Pakistan

Greeks and Romans sacrificed sheep regularly in religious practice.

Judaism once sacrificed sheep as a Korban (sacrifice), such as the Passover lamb.

Above: Practice of Passover sacrifice by Temple Mount activists, Jerusalem, Israel, 2012

Ovine symbols — such as the ceremonial blowing of a shofar — still find a presence in modern Judaic traditions.

Above: Shofar

Collectively, followers of Christianity are often referred to as a flock, with Christ as the Good Shepherd.

Above: Bernhard Plockhurst’s The good shepherd

Sheep are an element in the Christian iconography of the birth of Jesus.

Above: Giotto’s Birth of Jesus, Scrovegni Chapel, Padua, Italy

Some Christian saints are considered patrons of shepherds, and even of sheep themselves.

Above: Statue of Saint Drogo of Sebourg (1105 – 1186), Église de Saint-Droun de Sebourg, France

Christ is also portrayed as the sacrificial lamb of God (Agnus Dei).

Easter celebrations in Greece and Romania traditionally feature a meal of Paschal lamb.

Above: Flag of Greece

Above: Flag of Romania

A church leader is often called the pastor, which is derived from the Latin word for shepherd.

In many western Christian traditions bishops carry a staff, which also serves as a symbol of the episcopal office, known as a crosier, which is modeled on the shepherd’s crook.

Above: A crosier

Above: A shepherd’s crook

Sheep are key symbols in: 

  • fables and nursery rhymes like The Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing, Little Bo Peep, Baa Baa Black Sheep, and Mary Had a Little Lamb

  • novels such as George Orwell’s Animal Farm and Haruki Murakami’s A Wild Sheep Chase

Above: Eric Arthur Blair (aka George Orwell) (1903 – 1950)

Above: Haruki Murakami

Above: Japanese first edition of A Wild Sheep Chase

  • songs such as Bach’s “Schafe können sicher weiden” (sheep may safely graze) and Pink Floyd’s “Sheep

Above: Johann Sebastian Bach (1685 – 1750)

  • poems like William Blake’s “The Lamb

Above: William Blake (1757 – 1827)

According to data from 2017, the number of cattle in Turkey is 16 million, 105 thousand, the number of sheep is 33 million, 677 thousand, and the number of goats is 10 million, 636 thousand.

The total milk production amounted to 20 million, 699 thousand tons, of which 1.344 million tons were produced from sheep.

The production of red meat was 1,126,403 tons, of which 100,058 tons were met by sheep.

Above: Flag of Turkey

In the region of Uşak, there are 376,104 sheep and 4,260 sheep-raising businesses.

Above: Ancient Phrygian Cilandiras bridge in Uşak Province

In sheep breeding, the main objective is undoubtedly economic production and/or breeding.

In order to achieve this goal, environmental factors (maintenance, nutrition, shelter, health protection, etc.) that will have an impact on yields must be improved or the genetic makeup of animals must be improved or both of them should be addressed together.

The desired production goal is often not achieved by improving either environmental conditions or the genetic makeup alone.

For this reason, firstly, breeds suitable for the existing region and the conditions of the business should be selected, while at the same time appropriate environmental conditions must be provided for these breeds.

Besides strategic importance, agriculture is one of the most important sectors in Turkey for many reasons, such as the high number of people living in rural areas, traditional conception of production, employment opportunities and contribution to economy.

Uşak has a population of 500,000 (2016 census) and is the capital of Uşak Province.

Uşak is situated at a distance of 210 km (130 mi) from Izmir, the region’s principal metropolitan centre and port city.

Benefiting from its location at the crossroads of the Central Anatolian plateau and the coastal Aegean region, and from a climate and agricultural production incorporating elements of both of these zones, Uşak has also traditionally had a strong industrial base.

In pre-industrial times, Uşak was already a major center of production and export, particularly of Ushak carpets.

Ushak carpets are also called Holbein carpets in reference to the 16th century painter Hans Holbein the Younger who depicted them in minute detail in his paintings, reflecting their popularity in European markets.

Above: Self-portrait, Hans Holbein the Younger (1497 – 1543)

At least since the 17th century there was trade between Uşak and the Dutch Republic as reflected in the rug shown thrown over the bannister in Vermeer’s painting “The Procuress“.

Above: Flag of the Netherlands

The rug was probably produced in Uşak and covers a third of the painting and shows medallions and leaves.

Above: Self-portrait, Johannes Vermeer (1632 – 1675)

Above: Johannes Vermeer’s The Procuress, Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister, Dresden, Germany

The level of international popularity attained by Uşak’s carpets became such that the word “Ushak” is considered an English word of Turkic origin.

Although Uşak’s carpet patterns have evolved since then, large-scale weaving still continues and the name of the city still has an important presence in the market for carpets, both hand-woven and industrial.

On the other hand, the district of Eşme, which is also in Uşak Province, is famous for its kilims.

Above: Uşak Holbein carpet

Above: A kilim – a tapestry-woven carpet

Uşak was the first city in Turkey to have an urban electricity network, and the first city where a collective labour relations agreement was signed, during the Ottoman era, between leather industry employees and workers.

It was here that the first factory of Republican Turkey, a sugar refinery, was set up through a private sector initiative among local businessmen.

The tradition of industriousness continues today in Uşak.

In the city center, there is the Uşak Organized Textile Industrial Zone and the Mixed (Leather) Organized Industrial Zone. 

Above: Uşak

Uşak is an industrial city producing yarn, raw and printed cloth, fiber, blanket, leather, ceramics and carpets.

There are 127 schools and institutions in Uşak, including primary and secondary education and vocational and technical education. 

Uşak University was established on 17 December 2006.

Above: Logo of Uşak University

In the early 20th century, mercury was discovered in Uşak.

Above: Liquid mercury

Among other district centers in Uşak Province, Banaz is the largest and is notable for its varied agricultural production as well as for its forests. 

Above: Banaz train station

Meanwhile Ulubey’s canyon is a natural site attracting many visitors.

Above: Ulubey Canyon

In 2015, the total number of sheep raising businesses registered in Uşak Food Agriculture and Livestock Provincial Directorate was 4,260.

The sheep raising businesses’ average time of being involved in the activity of sheep raising is 9.8 years.

When the reasons for them to be involved in sheep raising are examined, it is seen that for 54% of them it is the sole source of income, 25.6% of them have to support their families and 12.4% love doing it.

81.1% learned sheep raising from their ancestors.

77.4% are members of the Association of Breeding Sheep and Goat Raisers while 5.6% are not.

35.4% provide their breeding animals from both their herds and other herds, 25.6% provide them only from their own herds, 34.5% provide from other herds and 0.5% from other cities.

90% of the shepherds are from among the family members and 6.5% of them are hired.

Of the shepherds, 89.5% are males and 4% are females.

When the shepherds’ level of education is examined, it is seen that 3% of them are illiterate, 2.8% are just literate, 27.9% are elementary school graduates, 1.7% are middle school graduates and 1.2% are high school graduates.

There are almost no university graduates amongst sheep breeders in the country.

Of the participating sheep raising businesses, 46.3% use metal waterers and 42% use plastic waterers.

Of the businesses, 49% use wooden mangers and 43.6% use metal mangers.

They are followed by plastic and cement mangers (12% and 10%, respectively).

As the source of water, 69% of the sheep raising businesses use fountains, 21% use lakes and 4.2% use well water.

90% of sheep pens are located in villages.

61% of the pens are independently located away from the farm buildings.

69% of the roofs of the pens are constructed with tiles.

60% of the walls of the pens are built of bricks.

77% of the floors of the pens are soil.

59% of the pens possess a ventilation chimney.

59% of the pens possess no shade for the sheep.

88% of the pens possess no baths for the beasts.

Only 23% of sheep actually graze for their fodder.

80% of sheep spend their nights outdoors.

95% of sheep pens have a hayloft.

44% of the sheep pens are complete enclosures.

88% of the sheep pens lack milking facilities.

82% of the pens are cleaned every winter.

89% of the pens are aired out every winter.

In Uşak, the mating of sheep is performed by using both the free insemination and controlled mating.

The businesses prefer the free insemination method with 89.0% and controlled mating with 6.1% and class style with 0.7%.

While 80.4% of the businesses keep rams within the herd throughout the year, 15.4% of them keep them in the herd during the period of mating of sheep.

The period of meeting of sheep ends in September with 48% and there are some businesses ending their sheep mating period in October or November.

The time of insemination is at night with 63.6% and towards the end of the evening with 10.5%.

Mating of sheep is performed in the village (14.5%), the summer range (3.3%), on grazing land (6.8%) and in the sheep pen (64.3%).

The number of sheep reserved for a ram is 25 on average.

In Uşak, free insemination is used for the mating of sheep with 89.0%; in 80.4% of the businesses, rams are kept in the herd throughout the year and 15.4% of them keep rams in the herd only in the sheep mating period.

Depending on the time of mating of sheep, births to lambs are given in December (74.6%), January (9.1%), February (4.7%) and other months (5.6%).

In 84.9% of the sheep raising businesses, care of the umbilical cord is not performed.

While 31% of the businesses wean their lambs when they are three months old, 24.5% of them let lambs suck their mothers for five months.

Of the businesses, 76% do not perform milking until lambs are weaned.

A majority of the sheep-raising businesses in Uşak (62.2%) stated that they start extra feeding in the first month of the birth.

While 42.7% of the businesses start milking in May, 36.4% start in April and 7.9% start in March.

While a majority of the businesses (52%) end milking in August, 17.7% end it in July and 15.4% in September.

While a high majority of the businesses (81.6%) perform single milking a day, 9.6% of the businesses perform two milkings.

The time of milking is morning in 22.1% of the businesses, afternoon-evening in 51.3% of the businesses and morning-evening in 13.8% of the businesses.

While milking is usually performed by family members (83.7%), in some businesses shepherds (5.8%) perform milking and in 1.6% of the businesses this is done by milkers.

In 5.6% of the businesses, milking is performed by females and males together, in 77.4% of them only by females and in 4.7% by males.

In 67.1% of the businesses udder cleaning is not done and in 20.7% it is done.

Above: Sheep dairy farm, Aveyron, France

Sheep are clipped once a year.

Clipping of sheep is performed in Uşak in different months (May, June, August and September).

May and June are preferred more.

Clipping is usually performed by the owner of the herd (80.2%).

While clipping is mostly performed with a machine with 66%, a clipper is used in 29.6%.

When the information about extra feeding before the mating of sheep is examined, it is seen that while 36.1% of the businesses carry out extra feeding before the mating of sheep and 59% of them don’t.

The businesses carrying out extra feeding do this with rams and sheep (20%), with only rams (16.1%) and with only sheep (12%).

The most prominent sources of feed of the sheep raising businesses are: factory feed, particle feed, chaff, straw, or silage.

In extra feeding, the most commonly used source of it is factory feed (30.8) followed by particle feed (15.2%).

In the winter feeding of sheep, mostly barley is used (73.9%).

Some businesses use wheat, factory feed, beet pulp, cotton pulp, silage, tare, alfalfa, oat, hay and straw together with barley.

In pregnant sheep, while the rate of businesses performing extra feeding is 54.3%, 39.6% do not perform extra feeding.

The rate of extra feeding is 12% at the beginning of pregnancy, 9.6% at the middle of pregnancy and 36.4% at the end of pregnancy.

It was found that the rate of the businesses performing extra feeding to animals before the mating of sheep is 23.5%.

In the sheep raising businesses, 55.2% of the milk is used in cheese production.

The rest is used to make yogurt and to meet the needs of their own families (milk, yogurt and cheese).

Above: Feta cheese

Of the lambs obtained in the sheep raising businesses, 58.3% are sold to tradesmen after they have been weaned, 15.6% are fed up in the business, 15.6% are spared as breeding animals, and 10.5% are either sold to tradesmen, or sold as breeding animals, or fed up in the business.

Vaccination programs applied by sheep raising businesses in Uşak include enterotoxemia, brucella, smallpox, foot-and-mouth, plague, and bluetongue vaccines.

Of the sheep-raising businesses, 90% have a health protection schedule.

The control of vaccine programs is done by veterinary surgeons (84.1%), by veterinary health officials (3.0%) and by the business owners themselves (9.1%).

The sheep-raising businesses stated that they conduct disinfection in sheep pens.

The rate of the businesses conducting cleaning and disinfection in spring, summer, autumn and winter is 63.2%, 7.5%, 15.9% and %0.5, respectively and 72.7% of the disinfection is done by lime, 13.3% by chemical medicine and 2.3% by burning.

While the rate of those which have bath pits for sheep in the sheep pen is 8.4%, the rate of those which do not have bath pits is 91.6%.

The rate of those bathing their sheep at least once a year is 18.6% and the rate of those bathing their sheep more than once is 5.4%.

The rate of those conducting struggles with parasites at least once is 29.4%, the rate of those conducting it twice is 64.8% and the rate of those doing it more than three times is 5.8%.

It was found that 59.8% of the sheep-raising businesses get information from veterinary surgeons when they want to use any medicine, 38.1% from the City and Provincial Directorates of Agriculture, and 1.0% from other business owners in the village.

The rate of the sheep-raising businesses which apply all of the protective vaccines was found to be 64.9%.

The businesses apply their vaccines according to schedule with 84%, while 16% of them apply them randomly or when a disease emerges.

In 94.3% of the businesses, veterinary surgeons give the vaccines, while 5.7% themselves give the vaccines.

As breeders generally think that health protection program generally bring extra costs, they can ignore such protection programs.

As a result of this, increases occur in lamb deaths, deterioration in growth and decline in yields by adults, leading to important losses.

The distribution of the problems that seem to be important for sheep raising is as follows:

  • high cost of feed + inadequate and poor quality grazing lands (80.2%)
  • inadequate and poor quality grazing lands (6.4%)
  • high cost of feed + inadequate and poor quality gazing lands + animal diseases (3.5%)
  • high cost of feed + inadequate and poor quality grazing lands + low sale prices (3.3%)
  • high cost of feed (3.2%) and animal diseases and other reasons (3.4%).

The sheep raising businesses made the following suggestions to make sheep raising more profitable:

  • marketing price + improving grazing lands (30.0%)
  • improving the genetic make-up of the herd + marketing price + improving grazing lands + expanding land areas for the cultivation of feed crops (16.2%)
  • improving the generic make-up of the herd + marketing + improving grazing lands (11.3%)
  • marketing price + improving grazing lands + expanding land areas for the cultivation of feed crops (9.6%)
  • only marketing (8.2%)
  • only improving grazing lands (4.4%)
  • improving the genetic make-up of the herd + marketing price + cheap credit + improving grazing lands + expanding land areas for the cultivation of feed crops (7.1%)
  • marketing price + cheap credit + improving grazing lands (5.2%)
  • expanding land areas for the cultivation of feed crops (5.7%)
  • feed + supply of breeding animals, improving and cheap credit (2.3%).

In 3% of all the cultivated lands, feed crops are grown while in countries having a developed animal breeding sector, nearly 25% of the cultivated lands are allocated to cultivation of feed crops and even in some countries, this rate can reach 50%.

On the other hand, the main problems of the sheep raising businesses were found to be as follows:

  • marketing (39.1%)
  • high feed prices (23.1%)
  • inadequate grazing lands (21.8%)
  • credit problem (9.2%)
  • education and health problems (6.8%)

Of these businesses, 51.4% want a solution to the marketing problem, 15.1% to the grazing land problem, 14.7% to the credit problem, 10% to the health problem, 7.7% to the problem of breeding animals.

In Uşak, the Pırlak breed is widely raised (90.7%).

Though all of the business owners are literate, there are almost no university graduate business owners.

Sheep breeding primarily relies on grazing lands.

The mating of sheep is generally performed through free insemination.

The sheep pens, waterers and mangers possessed by the businesses are generally made up of regional and cheap materials.

The sizes such as length, width and height are sufficient and the sheep pens are usually built in the village under, next to the house.

The income sources of the businesses are milk, yoghurt, sale of breeding and butchery animals.

Yet, there are serious problems regarding packaging and marketing of products.

It can be argued that there is a certain level of consciousness of the animal health and anticipated importance is attached to vaccination.

The most important problems of sheep breeding are high feed prices, low product prices, inadequate and poor quality of grazing lands, and animal diseases.

In order to make sheep raising more attractive, the prices of the products should be increased, grazing lands should be improved, the genetic structure of the herd should be improved, the amount of land area where feed crops are cultivated should be expanded and suitable credit conditions should be provided.

On the other hand, they need to be informed about sheep mating, lamb growing, stock, milking hygiene, general sheep feeding practices and marketing.

Moreover, new breeds with better birth and milk efficiency can be introduced to the breeders apart from the Pırlak breed, works should be conducted on how to enhance birth efficiency, on out-of-season lambing and on intensive lamb breeding.

The herd health management and preventive medicine programs are designed to minimize anticipated problems and to enhance herd yield and may change from business to business.

Therefore, they should be designed to increase birth efficiency, decrease the rate of death, accelerate the growth, improve carcass quality, improve care and feeding practices to increase the amount and quality of milk, enhance animal raising techniques, improve vaccination program and parasite control and manure management.

For the successful application of health protection programs and accomplishment of the anticipated outcomes, there is a need for conscious and educated breeders.

In February 2018, the government of Turkey announced that it would “distribute 300 sheep to every farmer” in Turkey who wants it in a bid to revive the livestock sector, to encourage farmers not to move to urban areas, and to ease high meat prices, Agriculture and Livestock Minister Ahmet Eşref Fakıbaba stated.

Above: Ahmet Eşref Fakıbaba

We will distribute 300 sheep to every farmer.

Our priority is preventing more farmers from moving to urban areas, not to motivate people who live in the cities to move to villages.

When distributing those animals, regions with pastures will be given priority,” Fakıbaba said, speaking at a sector summit in the eastern province of Kars hosted by Hürriyet and Denizbank.

Above: Logo of Hürriyet newspaper

He also noted that the government has been working on how to curb imports and support animal breeding, amid criticism of rising imports of meat and struggling domestic production.

We have done the math.

If we provide 300 sheep and a year later they give birth to 300 lambs, breeders will keep those lambs and the state will buy back the sheep to redistribute to other farmers,” Fakıbaba said.

He also added that the government will also pay for the veterinary costs, social security and the minimum wage.

I have not heard what has happened to this notion since.

Sheep shearing is the process in which a worker (a shearer) cuts off the woolen fleece of a sheep.

After shearing, wool classers separate the wool into four main categories:

  • fleece (which makes up the vast bulk)
  • broken
  • bellies
  • locks

The quality of fleeces is determined by a technique known as wool classing, whereby a qualified person, called a wool classer, groups wools of similar grading together to maximize the return for the farmer or sheep owner.

In Australia, before being auctioned, all Merino fleece wool is objectively measured for average diameter (micron), yield (including the amount of vegetable matter), staple length, staple strength, and sometimes colour and comfort factor.

Above: Machine shearing a Merion sheep, Yallingup, Western Australia.
The shearer is using a sling for back support.

Wool straight off a sheep is known as “raw wool”, “greasy wool” or “wool in the grease“.

This wool contains a high level of valuable lanolin, as well as the sheep’s dead skin and sweat residue, and generally also contains pesticides and vegetable matter from the animal’s environment.

Before the wool can be used for commercial purposes, it must be scoured, a process of cleaning the greasy wool.

Scouring may be as simple as a bath in warm water or as complicated as an industrial process using detergent and alkali in specialized equipment.

In northwest England, special potash pits were constructed to produce potash used in the manufacture of a soft soap for scouring locally produced white wool.

Above: Potash, Yorkshire, England

Vegetable matter in commercial wool is often removed by chemical carbonization. 

In less-processed wools, vegetable matter may be removed by hand and some of the lanolin left intact through the use of gentler detergents.

This semi-greasy wool can be worked into yarn and knitted into particularly water-resistant mittens or sweaters, such as those of the Aran Island fishermen.

Lanolin removed from wool is widely used in cosmetic products, such as hand creams.

Above: Wool before and after scouring

Typically each adult sheep is shorn once each year (a sheep may be said to have been “shorn” or “sheared“, depending upon dialect).

The annual shearing most often occurs in a shearing shed, a facility especially designed to process often hundreds and sometimes more than 3,000 sheep per day.

Sheep are shorn in all seasons, depending on the climate, management requirements and the availability of a wool classer and shearers.

Ewes are normally shorn prior to lambing in the warmer months, but consideration is typically made as to the welfare of the lambs by not shearing during cold climate winters.

However, in high country regions, pre-lamb shearing encourages ewes to seek shelter among the hillsides so that newborn lambs aren’t completely exposed to the elements.

Shorn sheep tolerate frosts well, but young sheep especially will suffer in cold, wet windy weather (even in cold climate summers).

In this event they are sheltered for several nights until the weather clears.

Some sheep may also be shorn with stud combs, commonly known as cover combs, which leave more wool on the animal in colder months, giving greater protection.

Sheep shearing is also considered a sport with competitions held around the world. 

It is often done between spring and summer.

Above: Shorn sheep

(Sheep shearing and wool handling competitions are held regularly in parts of the world, particularly Ireland, the UK, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia.

Above: Flag of Ireland

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland

Above: Flag of South Africa

Above: Flag of New Zealand

Above: Flag of Australia

As sheep shearing is an arduous task, speed shearers, for all types of equipment and sheep, are usually very fit and well trained.

In Wales a sheep shearing contest is one of the events of the Royal Welsh Show, the country’s premier agricultural show held near Builth Wells.

Above: Flag of Wales

Above: Royal Welsh Agricultural Show Ground, Llanelwedd, Bulith Wells, Powys, Wales

The world’s largest sheep shearing and wool handling contest, the Golden Shears, is held in Wairarapa, New Zealand.

Above: Golden Shears Competition, 2007

The shearing World Championships are hosted by different countries every two to three years and eight countries have hosted the event.

The first World Championships were held at the Bath & West Showground, England, in 1977, and the first Machine-Shearing winner was Roger Cox from New Zealand.

Above: Bath and West Showground

Above: (left foreground) Roger Cox

Other countries that have hosted the sheep shearing World Championships have been:

  • New Zealand (3 times)
  • England (3 times)

Above: Flag of England

  • Australia (twice)
  • Wales
  • Ireland
  • Scotland

Above: Flag of Scotland

  • South Africa
  • Norway

Above: Flag of Norway

Out of 13 World Championships, New Zealand have won the team machine contest ten times.

Famous New Zealand sheep-shearer David Fagan has been World Champion a record five times.

Above: David Fagan (middle foreground)

In October 2008 the event was hosted in Norway.

It was the first time ever that the event was hosted by a non-English speaking country.

Above: Coat of arms of Norway

The newly crowned World Machine Shearing champion is Paul Avery from New Zealand.

New Zealand also won the team event.

Above: Paul Avery

The traditional blade-shears World Champion is Ziewilelle Hans from South Africa.

A record 29 countries competed at the 2008 event.

World Blade Shearing has been dominated by South African and Lesotho shearers, Fine Wool machine shearing dominated by Australian shearers, and New Zealand dominating the Strong Wool machine shearing.)

Today large flocks of sheep are mustered, inspected and possibly treated for parasites, such as lice, before shearing can start. then shorn by professional shearing teams working eight-hour days, most often in spring, by machine shearing.

These contract-teams consist of shearers, shed hands and a cook (in the more isolated areas).

Their working hours and wages are regulated by industry awards.

A working day starts at 0730 and the day is divided into four “runs” of two hours each.

Smoko” breaks are a half-hour each and a lunch break is taken at midday for one hour.

Most shearers are paid on a piece-rate per sheep.

Shearers who “tally” more than 200 sheep per day are known as “gun shearers“.

Typical mass shearing of sheep today follows a well-defined workflow:

  • remove the wool
  • throw the fleece onto the wool table
  • skirt, roll and class the fleece
  • place it in the appropriate wool bin
  • press and store the wool until it is transported.

In 1984, Australia became the last country in the world to permit the use of wide combs, due to previous Australian Workers’ Union rules.

Although they were once rare in sheds, women now take a large part in the shearing industry by working as pressers, wool rollers, rouseabouts, wool classers and shearers.

A sheep is caught by the shearer, from the catching pen, and taken to his “stand” on the shearing board.

It is usually shorn using a mechanical handpiece.

(Whatever device is used, shearers must be careful to keep it clean so as to prevent the spread of disease amongst a flock.

Blade shearing has recently made a resurgence in Australia and the UK but mostly for sport rather than commercial shearing.

Some competitions have attracted almost 30 competitors and there have even been shows created just for blade shearers to compete in.

Blade shears consist of two blades arranged similarly to scissors except that the hinge is at the end farthest from the point (not in the middle).

The cutting edges pass each other as the shearer squeezes them together and shear the wool close to the animal’s skin.

Blade shears are still used today but in a more limited way.

Blade shears leave some wool on a sheep and this is more suitable for cold climates, such as the Canterbury high country in the South Island of New Zealand where approximately half a million sheep are still shorn with blade shears each year.

Above: New Zealand

For those areas where no powered-machinery is available blade shears are the only option.

In Australia, blades are more commonly used to shear stud rams.

Above: Coat of arms of Australia

Machine shears, known as handpieces, operate in a similar manner to human hair clippers in that a power-driven toothed blade, known as a cutter, is driven back and forth over the surface of a comb and the wool is cut from the animal.

The original machine shears were powered by a fixed hand-crank linked to the handpiece by a shaft with only two universal joints, which afforded a very limited range of motion.

Later models have more joints to allow easier positioning of the handpiece on the animal.

Electric motors on each stand have generally replaced overhead gear for driving the handpieces.

The jointed arm is replaced in many instances with a flexible shaft.

Smaller motors allowed the production of shears in which the motor is in the handpiece.

These are generally not used by professional shearers as the weight of the motor and the heat generated by it becomes bothersome with long use.)

The wool is removed by following an efficient set of movements, devised by Godfrey Bowen in about 1950 (the Bowen Technique) or the Tally-Hi method developed in 1963 and promoted by the Australian Wool Corporation.

Above: NZ farmer / world-acclaimed sheep shearer Godfrey Bowen (1922 – 1994)

Sheep struggle less using the Tally-Hi method, reducing strain on the shearer and there is a saving of about 30 seconds in shearing each one.

The shearer begins by removing the belly wool, which is separated from the main fleece by a rouseabout, while the sheep is still being shorn.

A professional or “gun” shearer typically removes a fleece, without significantly marking or cutting the sheep, in two to three minutes, depending on the size and condition of the sheep — less than two minutes in elite competitive shearing.

The shorn sheep is released and removed from the board via a chute in the floor or in a wall, to an exterior counting-out pen.

The CSIRO (Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization) in Australia has developed a non-mechanical method of shearing sheep using an injected protein that creates a natural break in the wool fibres.

After fitting a retaining net to enclose the wool, sheep are injected with the protein.

When the net is removed after a week, the fleece has separated and is removed by hand. 

In some breeds a similar process occurs naturally

Once the entire fleece has been removed from the sheep, the fleece is thrown, clean side down, on to a wool table by a shed hand (commonly known in New Zealand and Australian sheds as a rouseabout or rousie).

The wool table top consists of slats spaced approximately 12 cm apart.

This enables short pieces of wool, the locks and other debris, to gather beneath the table separately from the fleece.

The fleece is then skirted by one or more wool rollers to remove the sweat fribs and other less desirable parts of the fleece.

The removed pieces largely consist of shorter, seeded, burry or dusty wool etc. which is still useful in the industry.

As such they are placed in separate containers and sold along with fleece wool.

Other items removed from the fleece on the table, such as faeces, skin fragments or twigs and leaves, are discarded a short distance from the wool table so as not to contaminate the wool and fleece.

Above: Throwing a fleece onto a wool table

Following the skirting of the fleece, it is folded, rolled and examined for its quality in a process known as wool classing, which is performed by a registered and qualified wool classer.

Based on its type, the fleece is placed into the relevant wool bin ready to be pressed (mechanically compressed) when there is sufficient wool to make a wool bale.

Above: Wool sorting bins

In some primitive sheep (for example in the Shetlands), there is a natural break in the growth of the wool in spring.

By late spring this causes the fleece to begin to peel away from the body, and it may then be plucked by hand without cutting – this is known as rooing.

Individual sheep may reach this stage at slightly different times.

Above: Shetland sheep

Animal welfare organizations have raised concerns about the abuse of sheep during shearing, and have advocated against the selling and buying of wool products.

Sheep shearers are paid by the number of sheep shorn, not by the hour, and there are no requirements for formal training or accreditation.

Because of this it is alleged that speed is prioritised over precision and care of the animal.

In 2013, an anonymous shearer reported instances of animal abuse by workers, an allegation to which an Australian Worker’s Union representative added that he had witnessed “shearers gouge eyes and break sheep jaws.”

Australian Wool Innovation insisted that animal welfare was a priority among shearers. 

The following year, the RSPCA (Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) began a cruelty investigation following the release of video footage that PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) said was taken in more than a dozen shearing sheds in New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia. 

Above: Logo of the RSPCA (Australia)

The Guardian reported that the video showed “sheep being roughly handled, punched in the face and stamped upon.

One sheep was beaten with a hammer while another was shown having a deep cut crudely sewn up.

The Shearing Contractors Association of Australia “applauded” the investigation.

Wool Producers Australia President Geoff Fisken said the behavior shown in the video was “unacceptable and unsupportable“, but that “we’re sure it doesn’t portray the 99.9% majority of wool shearers – and those shearers would be appalled by it as well“.

More recent footage and images of Australian workers abusing sheep have been released by anonymous sources, some of which was included in Dominion, a recent Australian documentary on animal farm abuses.

No comment has been made about this by the Shearing Contractors Association of Australia.

A culture has evolved out of the practice of sheep shearing, especially in post-colonial Australia and New Zealand.

The sheep-shearing feast is the setting for Act IV of William Shakespeare’s A Winter’s Tale

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

Thomas Tusser provides doggerel verse for the occasion:

Wife make us a dinner, spare flesh neither corne,
Make wafers and cakes, for our sheepe must be shorne,
At sheep shearing neighbors none other thing craue,
but good cheer and welcome, like neighbors to haue

Above: Thomas Tusser (1524 – 1580)

The expression that Australia’s wealth rode on the sheep’s back in parts of the 20th century no longer has the currency it once had.

Above: Jason returns with the Golden Fleece

The Golden Fleece, originally known as Shearing at Newstead, is an 1894 painting by the Australian artist Tom Roberts.

The painting depicts sheep shearers plying their trade in a timber shearing shed at Newstead North, a sheep station near Inverell on the Northern Tablelands of New South Wales.

Above: Tom Roberts’ The Golden Fleece, 1894

The same shed is depicted in another of Roberts’ works, Shearing Shed, Newstead (1894).

Above: Tom Roberts’ Shearing shed, Newstead, 1894

The painting was originally titled Shearing at Newstead, but was renamed The Golden Fleece after the Golden Fleece of Greek mythology to honour the wool industry and the nobility of the shearers.

This was in keeping with Roberts’ conscious idealisation of the Australian pastoral worker and landscape.

Above: Tom Roberts (1856 – 1931)

The painting, said to be “an icon of Australian art“, is part of the collection of the Art Gallery of New South Wales.

Above: Art Gallery of New South Wales, The Domain, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

During Australia’s long weekend in June 2010, 111 machine shearers and 78 blade shearers shorn 6,000 Merino ewes and 178 rams at the historic 72-stand North Tuppal station.

Above: North Tuppal Station, Tocumwal, New South Wales, Australia

Along with the shearers there were 107 wool handlers and penners-up and more than 10,000 visitors to witness this event in the restored shed.

Many stations across Australia no longer carry sheep due to lower wool prices, drought and other disasters, but their shearing sheds remain, in a wide variety of materials and styles, and have been the subject of books and documentation for heritage authorities.

Some farmers are reluctant to remove either the equipment or the sheds, and many unused sheds remain intact.

Australia’s sheep shearers have long been celebrated in verse and art as the hard men of the country’s inland, but now they are fleeing because the animals have grown too big.

The pursuit of a crossbreed with both a full fleece of wool and that can then be sold for meat has created sheep almost double the weight they were 35 years ago.

As a result, battered shearers are deserting in droves.

Of more than 4,000 wool handlers trained in 2019, fewer than half have stayed in the job, according to Australian Wool Innovation, the industry body.

When I started shearing in the late Eighties, you had to be careful with merino ewes so you didn’t break their front legs while handling them.“, Phil Rourke, a veteran shearer said.

But now the average merino ewe is so heavy and strong that you can’t even tip it without busting your guts.

Rourke’s view that sheep are growing to an unmanageable size is echoed by shearers’ associations and livestock specialists.

Jason Letchford, Secretary of the Shearing Contractors Association of Australia, said that farmers faced the prospect of being without hundreds of shearers for the coming season.

It is absolutely a concern for us at the moment.“, Letchford told The Land newspaper.

We have got a national flock of 68 million sheep, so you are talking about 10% of the nation’s sheep that won’t be shorn by the workforce we would normally have here to do them.”

Glenn Haynes, the Association’s Executive Officer, said the size of sheep was the biggest reason young people gave up.

Some even leave within a couple of weeks.“, he added.

The notion that Australia’s shearers might one day be scared off by sheep would have been unimaginable to the impressionist Tom Roberts, whose celebrated 1890 work “Shearing the Rams” depicted the strapping shearers behind the wool boom.

The much-loved bush song “Click Go the Shears“, which appeared a year later, also romanced their life.

In 1985, the average weight of a Dorset ewe in Australia was 55kg, but by 2015 it has increased to 90kg.

Rourke said that during the busy season he woke up unable to feel his arms.

You are getting the daylights kicked out of you all day.”

Approximately 90% of the world’s sheep produce wool.

One sheep produces anywhere from 2 to 30 pounds of wool annually.

The wool from one sheep is called a fleece.

From many sheep, a clip.

The amount of wool that a sheep produces depends upon its breed, genetics, nutrition and shearing interval.

Lambs produce less wool than mature animals.

Due to their larger size, rams usually produce more wool than ewes of the same breed or type.

Long wool sheep usually produce the heaviest fleeces because their fibers, though coarser, grow the longest.

Hand spinners tend to prefer wool from the long wool breeds because it is easier to spin.

Some sheep produce very coarse fibers.

This type of wool is called carpet wool, and as the name suggests is used to make carpets and tapestries.

According to the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO), 41% of world wool production is classified as coarse wools.

Above: Coarse wool ewes

Medium wool sheep, raised more for meat than fiber, produce the lightest weight, least valuable fleeces.

Medium wool is usually made into blankets, sweaters, or socks or it is felted.

According to the IWTO, 22% of world wool production is classified as medium wools.

Above: Medium wool ewes

Fine wool sheep produce fleeces which usually have the greatest value due to their smaller fiber diameter and versatility of use.

Garments made from fine wool are less likely to itch.

According to the IWTO, 37% of world wool production is classified as fine wools.

Above: Fine wool rams

Hair sheep shed their coats and produce no usable fibers.

The “fleeces” from hair sheep and hair x wool crosses should be discarded.

Their inclusion in a wool clip can contaminate the entire clip.

Even raising wool sheep along side hair sheep or other shedding animals could potentially affect fleece quality of the wooled sheep.

Hair will not accept dye.

Above: Fleeces

The value of wool is based on its suitability for specific end uses, as well as the fundamentals of the world wool market.

Raw wool is usually purchased on the basis of grade.

Grade denotes the average fiber diameter and length of individual fibers.

The grade (or price) is reduced if the wool is dirty and contains a lot of vegetable matter or other contaminants.

Above: Learning to grade wool

In the commercial market, white wool is more valuable than coloured wool because it can be dyed any colour.

Even the wool from sheep with white faces is more valuable than the wool from sheep with dark or moddled faces because the fleeces from non-white face sheep may contain coloured wool or hairs which cannot be dyed.

In contrast, naturally-colored wools are often favoured in the niche markets.

Large producers of wool usually sell their wools to warehouses or directly to wool mills.

Sometimes the wool is sold on a clean (scoured) basis with the lower quality belly wool being removed from the clip.

Small producers usually sell (raw) through wool pools.

A wool pool is a collection point for wool from many producers.

At the pool, wool is sorted and packaged into different lots.

The entire pool is sold to one mill, often via silent bid.

Above: Wool at a wool mill

Some producers sell their wool to hand spinners or have it made into yarn or blankets.

When prices are low, some producers throw their wool away or give it to their shearer.

Above: Unloading wool at the wool pool

In 2019, the average price paid for wool sold in the United States was $1.89 per pound (grease) for a total value of $45.4 million.

In 2019, 24 million pounds of wool was harvested from 3.32 million head of sheep and lambs.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

The average fleece weight was 7.2 pounds (3.27 kg), compared to almost 10 lbs. (4.5 kg) in Australia.

Above: Australia

In the US, Nevada sheep boasted the heaviest fleece weights: 9.2 lbs. in 2019.

Above: Flag of Nevada

Sheep producers can get more money for their wool if they direct market it to hand spinners or add value to it.

In niche markets, there is no upper limit as to what wool can sell for.

Above: Wool buyers’ room at a wool auction, Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia

Wool is a freely-traded international commodity, subject to global supply and demand.

While wool represents only 3% of world fiber production, it is important to the economy and way of life in many countries.

Above: Wool garments

Though China is the largest producer of wool, Australia dominates the world wool market.

China is the largest wool buyer.

Above: Flag of China

The United States accounts for less than 1% of the world’s wool production and is a net importer of wool.

In the US, the top states for wool production are California, Colorado, Wyoming and Utah.

Above: Flag of California

Above: Flag of Colorado

Above: Flag of Wyoming

Above: Flag of Utah

Most people know that wool comes from sheep, but how it transforms from a sheep’s fluffy coat to material that is ready to be worn is a journey.

Wool goes through a multi-step process to clean it, regularize it, and transform it into soft yarn.

Although machinery can make the process much faster today, in most ways the process is the same as how people have been preparing wool for centuries.

Above: Sjolingstad Woolen Mill Museum, Norway

Every year, at the end of winter, sheep farmers shear their sheep, using an electric tool similar to a razor that removes all of the sheep’s fleece in one piece.

A single sheep’s annual fleece can weigh over 8 kilos, although most are around 3 – 4 kilos.

When done with care, shearing doesn’t harm the sheep.

Shearing leaves them with a thin, cool coat for the summer months.

Without shearing, the sheep’s fleece can severally overgrow, such as the famous case of “Shrek the Sheep”.

Above: Shrek the sheep

(Shrek (27 November 1994 – 6 June 2011) was a Merino wether (castrated male sheep) belonging to Bendigo Station, a sheep station near Tarras, New Zealand, who gained international fame in 2004, after he avoided being caught and shorn for six years.

Above: Bendigo Station, Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand

Merinos are normally shorn annually, but Shrek apparently hid in caves, avoiding muster (round-up).

He was named after the fictional ogre in books and films of the same name.

Above: Shrek the ogre

After finally being caught on 15 April 2004, the wether was shorn by a professional in 20 minutes on 28 April.

The shearing was broadcast on national television in New Zealand.

Above: Coat of arms of New Zealand

His fleece contained enough wool to make 20 large men’s suits, weighing 27 kg (60 lb) – an average Merino fleece weighs around 4.5 kg (10 lb), with exceptional weights up to around 15 kg (33 lb).

Shrek became a national icon.

He was taken to Parliament to meet New Zealand Prime Minister Helen Clark, in May 2004, to celebrate his 10th birthday.

Above: Helen Clark

In November 2006, 30 months after his initial shearing, Shrek was shorn again, on an iceberg floating off the coast of Dunedin, New Zealand.

Shrek was euthanized on 6 June 2011 on a veterinarian’s advice.

He was 16.)

Above: Shrek, 2009

The wool is then sorted and prepared for cleaning.

A simple step of washing the wool with removes dirt, other contaminants, and natural oils from the wool.

Some of these by-products of cleaning the wool get used for other purposes.

Lanolin, a wax secreted by sheep that helps to protect their wool, is included in many beauty products such as skin moisturizer.

Above: Tins of wool fat, Centre touristique de la Laine et de la Mode, Verviers, Belgium

Next, the wool fibers go through carding, a process that pulls them through fine metal teeth.

Sheep wool is naturally curly.

Carding straightens out the fibers and makes them soft and fluffy.

Originally, carding would be done by hand using two metal combs.

Today, most manufacturers use machines to card large batches of wool more quickly.

By the end of carding, the wool fibers are lined up into a thin, flat piece.

These sheets can then be drawn into long, thin pieces called rovings.

Spinning turns the wool pieces into a material that is usable.

Spinning uses a wheel to spin 2 – 5 strands of wool together.

This forms long, strong pieces of wool that you would recognize as yarn.

Different processes create different kinds of yarn that work for distinct final products.

Worsted spinning, for example, makes a smooth, thin yarn that’s perfect for suits and other garments made with the finer material.

Woolen spinning, on the other hand, makes a thicker yarn that is perfect for knitting.

Some wool yarn is sold directly to consumers, who use it to craft handmade scarves, sweaters and other clothing.

Other yarn forms the raw material for all kinds of wool products, from shoes to coats.

It is woven into pieces of fabric that are ready to be shaped by fashion designers.

Wool quickly absorbs water, which makes it very easy to dye.

It can be dyed at almost any stage of the process, depending on what the final product will be.

Simply submerging the wool into boiling water with the dye material, or applying colorful dyes directly to the fabric, produces the desired colour.

The process of transforming a sheep’s fleece into soft and cozy wool is truly an art form that needs to be carefully managed.

Although the process can be time-consuming, the end product carries many natural benefits. 

Domestication is when an organism is trained or adapted to live with people.

Domestication often changes the appearance and behavior of the organism.

While dogs were the first animal to be domesticated, sheep and goats are tied for second and are the first animals to be domesticated for agricultural purposes.

They were domesticated over 10,000 years ago.

Life expectancy is how long an organism is expected to live.

Typically, the life expectancy of an animal increases with size.

For example, cows usually live longer than sheep.

The life expectancy of sheep is similar to large breeds of dogs, about 10 to 12 years.

Some breeds are known for being longer-lived, e.g. Merino.

According to the Guinness Book of World Records, the oldest sheep lived to be 23.

She was a Merino.

However, the length of a sheep’s productive lifetime tends to be much less.

This is because a ewe’s productivity usually peaks between 3 and 6 years of age and begins to decline after the age of 7.

As a result, most ewes are removed from a flock before they would reach their natural life expectancy.

It is also necessary to get rid of older ewes in order to make room for younger ones.

The younger animals are usually genetically superior to the older ones.

In harsh environments (e.g. where forage is sparse), ewes are usually culled at a younger age because once their teeth start to wear and break down, it becomes more difficult for them to maintain their body condition and consume enough forage to feed their babies.

It is possible for a ewe to be productive past 10 years of age, if she is well-fed and managed and stays healthy and sound.

The approximate age of a sheep can be determined by examining their upper incisor teeth.

At birth, lambs have eight baby (or milk) teeth or temporary incisors arranged on their lower jaw.

They don’t have any teeth on their top jaw, only a dental pad.

At approximately one year of age, the central pair of baby teeth is replaced by a pair of permanent incisors.

At age 2, the second pair is replaced by permanent incisors.

At 3 and 4 years, the third and fourth pairs of baby teeth are replaced.

At approximately four years of age, a sheep has a full mouth of teeth.

As it ages past four, the incisor teeth will start to spread, wear, and eventually break.

When a ewe has lost some of her teeth, she’s called a “broken mouth” ewe.

When she’s lost all her teeth, she’s called a “gummer“.

A sheep with no incisor teeth can still survive because it uses mostly its molars for chewing feed.

However, it will have a harder time grazing, especially short vegetation.

A sheep that has rolled over onto its back is called a “cast” sheep.

It may not be able to get up without assistance.

This happens most commonly with short, stocky sheep with full fleeces on flat terrain.

Heavily pregnant ewes are most prone.

Cast sheep can become distressed and die within a short period of time if they are not rolled back into a normal position.

When back on their feet, they may need supported for a few minutes to ensure they are steady.

Vital signs are measures of various physiological statistics.

A sheep’s vital signs can help determine if it is sick or in distress.

The average body temperature of a healthy sheep is 102° – 103° Fahrenheit, with a heart rate of 60 to 90 beats per minute and a respiration rate of 12 to 20 breaths a minute.

Sheep are a prey animal.

When they are faced with danger, their natural instinct is to flee not fight.

Their strategy is to use avoidance and rapid flight to avoid being eaten.

Some primitive sheep breeds may be able to more effectively evade predators, as their natural instincts are stronger.

Domesticated sheep have come to rely on man for protection from predators.

After fleeing, sheep will reform their group and look at the predator.

They use their natural herding instinct to band together for safety.

A sheep that is by itself is vulnerable to attack.

Sheep tracks are never straight.

The winding of trails allows sheep to observe their backside first with one eye, then the other.

Sheep can spot dogs or other perceived forms of danger from 1,200 to 1,500 yards away.

Sheep have excellent senses.

Their wide angle of vision allows them to see predators.

They can direct their ears to the direction of sound.

They are very sensitive to what different predators smell like.

Sheep have an amazing tolerance for pain.

They do not show pain, because if they do, they will be more vulnerable to predators who look for those who are weak or injured.

The easiest way to tell the difference between a sheep and a goat is to look at their tails.

A goat’s tail goes up (unless it is sick, frightened or in distress.

A sheep’s tail hangs down and is often docked (shortened) for supposedly health and sanitary reasons.

Another big difference between a sheep and a goat is their foraging behaviour and diet selection.

Goats are natural browsers, preferring to eat leaves, twigs, vines and shrubs.

They are very agile and will stand on their hind legs to reach vegetation.

Goats like to eat the tops of plants.

Sheep are grazers, preferring to eat short tender grasses and clover.

Their dietary preference is forbs (broadleaf weeds) and they like to graze close to the soil surface.

Goats require and select a more nutritious diet.

Sheep and goats usually exhibit different behaviour.

Goats are naturally curious and independent, while sheep tend to be more distant and aloof.

Above: Pymgy goat, Fiesch, Valais, Switzerland

Sheep have a stronger flocking instinct and become very agitated if they are separated from the rest of the flock.

It is easier to keep sheep inside a fence than goats.

Sheep have a strong instinct to follow the sheep in front of them.

When one sheep decides to go somewhere, the rest of the flock usually follows, even if it is not a good “decision“.

For example, sheep will follow each other to slaughter.

If one sheep jumps over a cliff, the others are likely to follow.

Even from birth, lambs are conditioned to follow older members of the flock.

This instinct is “hard-wired” into sheep.

This is not something sheep “think” about.

There is a certain strain of sheep in Iceland known as leader sheep.

The Icelandic leader sheep is a separate line within the Icelandic breed of sheep.

Above: Flag of Iceland

As the name implies these sheep were leaders in their flocks.

The leadership ability runs in bloodlines and is equally in males and females.

Leader sheep are highly intelligent animals that have the ability and instinct to lead a flock home during difficult conditions.

Sheep of this strain have the ability, or instinct, to run in front of the flock, when it is driven home from the mountain pastures in autumn, from the sheep sheds to the winter pasture in the morning and back home in the evening, through heavy snowdrifts, over ice-covered ground, or across rivers.

Sometimes the leaders would take the whole flock of grazing sheep on winter pasture back to the farm, early in the day, if a blizzard was on its way.

They have an exceptional ability to sense danger.

There are many stories in Iceland of leader sheep saving many lives during the fall round-ups when blizzards threatened shepherds and flocks alike.

Sheep are gregarious.

They will usually stay in a group while grazing.

In fact, a sheep will become highly agitated if it is separated from the group.

It is the banding together in large groups which protects sheep from predators which will go after the outliers in the flock.

Sheep are a very social animal.

Animal behaviorists note that sheep require the presence of at least 4 or 5 sheep which, when grazing together, maintain a visual link to each other.

Flocking instinct is strongest in the fine wool breeds, but exists in all sheep breeds to some extent.

It is the sheep’s flocking instinct that allows sheep herders to look after and move large numbers of sheep and lambs.

Due to their strong flocking instinct and failure to act independently of one another, sheep have been universally branded “stupid“.

But sheep are not stupid.

Their only protection from predators is to band together and follow the sheep in front of them.

If a predator is threatening the flock, this is not the time to act independently.

At the same time, there is a growing body of evidence that sheep may actually possess some smarts.

Hungry sheep on the Yorkshire Moors (Great Britain) taught themselves to roll 8 feet (3 meters) across hoof-proof metal cattle grids to raid villagers’ valley gardens.

Above: North Yorkshire Moors, England

According to a witness:

They lie down on their side or sometimes their back and just roll over and over the grids until they are clear.

I’ve seen them doing it.

It is quite clever, but they are a big nuisance to the villagers.

[BBC News, July 2004]

A study of sheep psychology has found man’s woolly friend can remember the faces of more than 50 other sheep for up to two years.

They can even recognize a familiar human face.

The hidden talents of sheep revealed by a study in the journal Nature suggest they may be nearly as good as people at distinguishing faces in a crowd.

Researchers say:

Sheep form individual friendships with one another, which may last for a few weeks.

It’s possible they may think about a face even when it’s not there.

Researchers also found female sheep had a definite opinion about what made a ram’s face attractive.

According to researchers in Australia, sheep can learn and remember.

Researchers have developed a complex maze test to measure intelligence and learning in sheep, similar to those used for rats and mice.

Using the maze, researchers have concluded that sheep have excellent spatial memory and are able to learn and improve their performance.

And they can retain this information for a six-week period.

The maze uses the strong flocking instinct of sheep to motivate them to find their way through.

The time it initially takes an animal to rejoin its flock indicates smartness, while subsequent improvement in times over consecutive days of testing measures learning and memory.

Scientists at the University of Cambridge discovered that sheep have brain power to equal rodents, monkeys, and in some tests, humans.

They discovered the sheep “intelligence” while researching neurodegeneration, with a focus on Huntington’s disease, an inherited disorder that leads to nerve damage and dementia.

Above: Coat of arms of the University of Cambridge, England

The scientists put sheep through a set of challenges often given to humans suffering from Huntington’s.

The sheep showed that they had advanced learning capabilities, as they were able to navigate the challenges in the same way as humans and primates.

New research is suggesting that sick sheep could actually be smart enough to cure themselves.

Australian researchers believe that sick sheep may actually seek out plants that make them feel better.

There has been previous evidence to suggest that animals can detect what nutrients they are deficient in and can develop knowledge about which foods are beneficial or toxic.

Sheep are individuals, as are all the creatures great and small on the planet, however unnoticed, unstudied or unsung.

When we treat an animal as a pet, because of illness, accident or bereavement, it will exhibit great intelligence, a huge capacity for affection and an ability to adapt to unusual routines.

Perhaps everything boils down to the amount of time spent with any one animal.

Perhaps that is true of humans too.

Above: Cast of the BBC 1978 TV series All Creatures Great and Small
(left to right) Christopher Timothy (James Herriot), Robert Hardy (Siegfried Farnon), Peter Davison (Tristan Farnon), Mary Hignett (Helen Herriot) and Carol Drinkwater (Mrs. Edna Hall)

Animals are individuals.

Farmed animals are usually kept in large groups, but this does not mean that individuality disappears.

Their levels of intelligence vary, just as much as is true of humans.

No teacher ever expects, or wants, all his students in the classroom to be identical.

No one wants to create a society in which everyone wears the same clothes or shares the same hobbies.

Just because we are not clever enough to notice the differences between individual sheep is not a reason for presuming that there are none.

Animals and people can appear to lose their identities or become institutionalized if forced to live in unnaturally crowded, featureless regimented or boring conditions.

When this happens it is not proof that individuals are all the same or want to be treated as such.

We judge the comparative intelligence of different species by human standards.

Yet why should human criteria have any relevance to other species?

If an animal’s intelligence is sufficient to make it a success as that animal, what more could be desired?

Those who spend a lifetime observing animals witness amazing examples of logical, practical intelligence and some cases of outright stupidity.

Qualities also seen in human beings.

Animals merely get on with the day-to-day business of living, solving or failing to solve problems as they arise.

The important point is that animals should be given the wherewithal to succeed as animals, not as some inadequate servants of human beings.

Physical and mental development is affected by diet and freedom.

No one would expect a child to develop normally when kept in cramped unfriendly conditions, deprived of parents and siblings, with restricted exercise and the same diet everyday.

Yet many farmers and the government departments that inform them seem to expect farm animals to develop normally in such circumstances.

If you give animals the opportunity and time to choose between several alternatives, then they will choose what is best for them, and they will not all choose the same thing.

Goats will seek shelter more readily than sheep.

Neither species likes to get its feet wet and both prefer upland grazing to lowland.

In a fight, a ram will back up to charge and butt heads.

During confrontation, such fighting behaviour favours the ram.

Sheep and goats have numerous physical differences.

Most goats have hair coats that don’t require shearing or combing.

Most sheep grow wooly coats that need to be sheared at least once a year.

Sheep have an upper lip that is split by a distinct philtrum (groove).

The goat does not.

Male goats have glands beneath their tails.

Sheep have face or tear glands beneath their eyes and foot or scent glands between their toes.

Male goats develop a distinct odor as they reach sexual maturity.

The odor is very strong during the rutting (mating) season.

Most goats are naturally horned.

Some goats have beards.

Many breeds of sheep are naturally hornless (polled).

Some sheep have manes.

Tails are a natural part of sheep.

Lambs are born with tails.

The length of a lamb’s tail is usually half-way between the length of its mother’s tail and its father’s tail.

In fact, tail length is one of the most heritable traits in sheep.

Up to 84% of the variation in sheep tail length is due to genetics.

The purpose of the sheep’s tail is to protect the sheep’s anus, vulva, and udder from weather extremes.

Sheep lift their tails when they defecate and use their tails, to some extent, to scatter their feces.

Under modern sheep production systems, tails are usually docked (shortened) to prevent fecal matter from accumulating on the back side of the sheep, which can result in fly strike (wool maggots).

Left untreated, fly strike can be fatal, as the maggots eat away at the sheep’s flesh.

Tail docking also makes it easier to shear the sheep and process them for meat.

The tail does not interfere with breeding or lambing.

There are different methods that can be used to dock the tails of lambs.

The most common method is to put a rubber band (ring) around the tail.

When this method is used, it is recommended that lambs be docked at a young age (1 to 7 days) to minimize the stress and pain experienced by the lamb.

The dock (tail) should be left long enough to cover the ewe’s vulva and ram’s anus.

Short tail docks may contribute to the incidence of rectal prolapses.

While some animal activists claim that tail docking is an inhumane practice made necessary by modern production practices, this claim is simply untrue.

When done properly, tail docking is not inhumane.

While it causes some pain, it does not affect the health or growth of the lamb.

Tail docking is done to protect the health and hygiene of sheep and lambs.

Liquid feces (diarrhea) can occur in all production systems, thus, putting the sheep at risk for flystrike.

I strongly disagree with this practice.

The mutilation of animals has its roots in propaganda, custom and thoughtless adherence to tradition, which cannot be justified on any grounds.

If lambs’ tails get dirty, the cause needs to be addressed.

It is NOT a solution to cut off their tails.

Sheep are over one year of age.

They usually produce offspring.

Lambs are less than one year of age.

They usually do not produce offspring.

A yearling is an animal between 1 and 2 years of age that may or may not have produced offspring.

In other countries, a yearling ewe is called a hogget, shearling, gimmer, theave or teg.

Lamb is also the term for the flesh of a young domestic sheep eaten as food.

Above: Shoulder of lamb

The meat from a sheep that is older than 12 months is called mutton.

Yearling mutton is the meat from a sheep between 1 and 2 years of age.

Mutton has a much stronger flavour than lamb.

Above: Mutton steak

An abattoir is a building where animals are slaughtered and processed into meat products.

It comes from the French word, abattre, “to strike down“.

Above: Lovis Corinth’s In the slaughterhouse, 1893



A female sheep is called a ewe.

Yoe is a slang term for ewe.

A young female is called a ewe lamb.

The process of giving birth to lambs is called lambing.

Another word for birthing is parturition.

Another word for pregnancy is gestation.

A male sheep is called a ram.

Buck is the slang term for ram.

A young male is called a ram lamb.

In parts of the United Kingdom, a ram is called a tup and the mating season is called tupping.

A castrated male sheep is called a wether.

Wethers are less aggressive than rams.

A group of sheep is called a flock.

Larger groups of sheep are called bands or mobs.

A shepherd is a person who cares for sheep.

A sheepherder is a herder of sheep (on open range).

It is someone who keeps the sheep together in a flock.

In the US, the sheepherder is not usually the owner of the sheep.

A farm is an area of land, including various structures, devoted primarily to the practice of producing and managing food.

It usually includes cultivated land for producing crops.

A ranch is a farm consisting of a large tract of land along with facilities needed to raise livestock.

In 2014, it was estimated that 61,712 adult sheep and 132,683 lambs were killed by predators in the United States, costing farmers and ranchers almost $32.6 million.

In 2014, predation accounted for 28.1% of sheep losses and 36.4% of lamb losses.

Above: Fox

Coyotes were responsible for the majority of losses due to predation.

Above: Coyote

However, in terms of number of sheep operations affected, free-ranging or wild dogs may be the most common predator problem.

Some producers experience few or no problems with predators, while countless others battle the problem or have been driven out of the sheep business due to catastrophic losses.

Sheep have many natural predators: coyotes, wolves, foxes, bears, dogs, eagles, bobcats, etc.

Sheep are vulnerable to predators because they are basically defenseless and have no means of protecting themselves.

Above: Cougar

Each predator species has traits peculiar to it.

Coyotes typically attack sheep at the throat.

Above: Coyote attacking a lamb

Dogs are usually indiscriminate in how and where they attack.

Young or inexperienced coyotes may attack any part of the body as dogs would.

Coyotes, foxes, mountain lions and bobcats usually feed on a carcass at the flanks or behind the ribs and consume viscera, such as liver, heart and lungs.

Above: Bobcat

Bears usually prefer meat to viscera and often eat the udder of lactating ewes.

Above: Black bear

Eagles skin out carcasses and leave much of the skeleton intact on larger animals.

With lambs, eagles may bite off and swallow the ribs.

Above: Golden eagle

Smaller predators, such as coyotes, foxes and bobcats, select lambs over adult sheep.

Bears and mountain lions take adult sheep as well as lambs.

Coyotes, dogs, bears and mountain lions may kill more than one animal in a single episode, but often only one of the animals is fed upon.

Above: Sheep skull

While no technique is 100% effective, there are some techniques that shepherds can employ to protect their sheep from predators.

The most obvious way is to keep sheep and lambs safe by penning them at night or bedding them nearby.

Employ sheep herders will provide some protection from predators.

Certain types of fences (net and high-tensile electric) will aid in keeping predators out.

Fencing is particularly effective when incorporated with other methods of predator control, such as livestock guardians.

Livestock guardians are becoming increasingly popular with shepherds.

Three animals are used as livestock guardians:

  • dogs
  • llamas
  • donkeys

A dog generally stays with the sheep without harming them and aggressively repels predators.

Llamas and donkeys have an inherent dislike of dogs.

Above: Llama

In fact, any animal that displays aggressive behaviour to intruding predators may be a deterrent.

Above: Donkey

While some people may find lethal control methods (shooting, trapping, snaring, denning and poisoning) distasteful, sometimes they are the only method to remove individual predators, particularly those killing large numbers of sheep.

Because they are a prey animal, sheep require excellent senses to enhance their chances of survival in the wild.

Sheep depend heavily on their vision.

They have excellent peripheral vision and can see behind themselves without turning their heads.

However, they have poor depth perception.

They cannot see immediately in front of their noses.

Some vertical vision may also have been sacrificed in order to have a wider field of vision.

For example, it is doubtful that a sheep would be able to see something in a tree.

Contrary to previous thought, sheep and other livestock perceive colours, though their colour vision is not as well-developed as it is in humans.

Sheep will react with fear to new colours.

Sheep have excellent hearing.

They can direct their ears in the direction of a sound.

Sound arrives at each ear at slightly different times, with a small difference in amplitude.

Sheep are frightened by high-pitched and loud noises, such as barking dogs or firecrackers.

Sheep have an excellent sense of smell.

They are very sensitive to what different predators smell like.

Smell helps rams locate ewes in heat and ewes locate their lambs.

Sheep also use their sense of smell to locate water and determine subtle or major differences between feeds and pasture.

The sense of taste in sheep is probably not as important as the other senses.

However, sheep have the ability to differentiate different feedstuffs and taste may play a role in this ability.

When presented with a variety of feeds, sheep will select certain feeds over others.

Sheep will select different types and species of plants than other livestock.

Since the sheep’s body is covered with wool or coarse hair, only the nose, lips, mouth, and maybe ears readily lend themselves to touching behaviour.

However, touching is important to the interaction between sheep.

Lambs seek bodily contact with their mothers and the ewes respond to touching in many ways, including milk letdown in response to the nuzzling/suckling stimulus of lambs.

When young lambs sleep, they will seek out their mothers and lie close to them.

Making animals happy and allowing them to express their natural behavioural instincts is not just morally and ethically essential.

It also makes sound financial sense.

Happy animals grow faster.

Children under stress eat and sleep less well than those who are happy and relaxed.

Unhappy children develop real and imaginary ailments.

Stress can be reduced or eliminated by improving existing conditions.

A change of environment or diet, more understanding or love, all play their part.

It is the same with animals.

It is misplaced conceit to believe that any manmade environment can equal or better the natural one.

No artificially manufactured conditions can match the reassurance, stability, attention, companionship and appropriate food that nature provides.

Albert Einstein said that the only really valuable thing is intuition.

I believe that he was right.

Above: Albert Einstein (1879 – 1955)

Instinct and intuition are the most useful tools any living creature possesses.

We suppress instinct in animals and in children at a huge risk to the world.

Wherever the pursuit of maximum profit had led to intensification, it has been animals that have suffered most.

The Story of the Golden Fleece

Athamas the Minyan, a founder of Halos in Thessaly, but also the King of the city of Orchomenus in Boetia (a region of southeastern Greece), took the goddess Nephele as his first wife.

Above: John Flaxman’s The Fury of Athamas

Above: Remains of ancient Halos, Thessaly, Greece

Above: Ruins of the Acropolis of Orchomenus

Above: Punishment of Ixion: In the center is Mercury holding the caduceus. On the right is Juno on her throne, and behind her Iris stands and gestures. On the left is Vulcanus (blond figure) manning the wheel, with Ixion already tied to the wheel. Nephele sits at Mercury’s feet. Roman fresco from the eastern wall of the triclinium in the Casa dei Vettii (“House of the Vetii”) in Pompeii, Italy

They had two children, the boy Phrixus (whose name means “curly” as in the texture of the ram’s fleece) and the girl Helle.

Above: Helle and Phrixus, Fresco, Pompeii

Later Athamas became enamored of and married Ino, the daughter of Cadmus.

Above: Cadmus fighting the dragon, Louvre Museum, Paris, France

When Nephele left in anger, drought came upon the land.

Ino was jealous of her stepchildren and plotted their deaths.

In some versions, she persuaded Athamas that sacrificing Phrixus was the only way to end the drought.

Above: Statue of Ino, Cour Carrée, Palais du Louvre, Paris, France

Nephele, or her spirit, appeared to the children with a winged ram whose fleece was of gold.

The ram had been sired by Poseidon in his primitive ram-form upon Theophane, a nymph and the granddaughter of Helios, the sun god.

Above: Statue of Poseidon, National Archaeological Museum, Athens, Greece

Above: Theophane

Above: Helios, Fresco, Pompeii

According to the Latin author Hyginus (64 BCE – 17 CE), Poseidon carried Theophane to an island where he made her into a ewe so that he could have his way with her among the flocks.

There Theophane’s other suitors could not distinguish the ram-god and his consort.

Nephele’s children escaped on the yellow ram over the sea, but Helle fell off and drowned in the strait now named after her, the Hellespont.

The ram spoke to Phrixus, encouraging him and took the boy safely to Colchis (modern day Georgia), on the easternmost shore of the Euxine Sea (Black Sea).

In essence, this act returned the ram to the god Poseidon, and the ram became the constellation Aries.

Phrixus settled in the house of Aeetes, son of Helios the sun god.

Above: Bartolomeo di Giovanni’s King Aeetes, 1487

He hung the Golden Fleece preserved from the ram on an oak in a grove sacred to Ares, the god of war and one of the Twelve Olympians.

Above: Statue of Ares

Above: The Twelve Olympians igures from left to right are – Hestia (goddess of the hearth), with scepter; Hermes (messenger of the gods), with cap and staff; Aphrodite (goddess of love and beauty), with veil; Ares (god of war), with helmet and spear; Demeter (goddess of agriculture), with scepter and wheat sheaf; Hephaestus (god of fire and metal-working), with staff; Hera (queen of the gods), with scepter; Poseidon (god of the sea), with trident; Athena (goddess of wisdom and the arts), with owl and helmet; Zeus (king of the gods), with thunderbolt and staff; Artemis (goddess of the hunt and moon), with bow and quiver; and Apollo (god of the sun), with “kithara.”, Walters Art Museum, Baltimore, Maryland

The fleece was guarded by a never-sleeping dragon with teeth that could become soldiers when planted in the ground.

The dragon was at the foot of the tree on which the fleece was placed.

Pelias was power-hungry and sought to gain dominion over all of Thessaly.

Above: Map of ancient Thessaly

Pelias was the progeny of a union between their shared mother, Tyro (“high born Tyro“), the daughter of Salmoneus, and the sea god Poseidon.

In a bitter feud, he overthrew Aeson (the rightful king), killing all the descendants of Aeson that he could.

He spared his half-brother for unknown reasons.

Aeson’s wife Alcimede I had a newborn son named Jason whom she saved from Pelias by having female attendants cluster around the infant and cry as if he were stillborn.

Fearing that Pelias would eventually notice and kill her son, Alcimede sent him away to be reared by the centaur Chiron.

Above: Eugène Delacroix’s The Education of Achilles, Palais Bourbon, Paris, France

She claimed that she had been having an affair with him all along.

Pelias, fearing that his ill-gotten kingship might be challenged, consulted the Oracle, who warned him to beware of a man wearing only one sandal.

Above: John William Waterhouse’s Consulting the Oracle, 1884

Many years later, Pelias was holding games in honour of Poseidon when the grown Jason arrived in Iolcus, having lost one of his sandals in the River Anauros (“wintry Anauros“) while helping an old woman (actually the goddess Hera in disguise) to cross.

She blessed him, for she knew what Pelias had planned.

Above: Statue of Hera, Louvre Museum, Paris

When Jason entered Iolcus (present-day city of Volos), he was announced as a man wearing only one sandal.

Jason, aware that he was the rightful King, so informed Pelias.

Above: Pelias, King of Iolcos, stops on the steps of a temple as he recognises young Jason by his missing sandal, Roman fresco, Pompeii

Pelias replied:

“To take my throne, which you shall, you must go on a quest to find the Golden Fleece.”

Jason readily accepted this condition.

Above: Pelias (left) sends forth Jason (right), Stories from the Greek Tragedians, Alfred Church, 1879

Jason assembled for his crew, a number of heroes, known as the Argonauts after their ship, the Argo.

Above: Lorenzo Costa’s The Argo, 1500

Most accounts name the ship after her builder, Argus. 

Above: Argus building the Argo, with the help of Athena

Cicero (106 – 43 BCE) suggested that it was named after the “Argives“, a term commonly used by Homer for the Greek people of Argos. 

Above: Marble bust of Marcus Tullius Cicero, Prado Museum, Madrid, Spain

Above: View of modern Argos (Greece) as seen from the ancient theatre

Diodorus Siculus (90 – 30 BCE) reported that some thought the name was derived from an ancient Greek word for swift, which could have indicated that the ship was designed to move quickly.

Above: Fresco of Diodoro Siculus

The isle of Lemnos is situated off the Western coast of Asia Minor (modern day Turkey).

The island was inhabited by a race of women who had killed their husbands.

The women had neglected their worship of Aphrodite, and as a punishment the goddess made the women so foul in stench that their husbands could not bear to be near them.

Above: The isle of Lemnos as seen from space

The men then took concubines from the Thracian mainland opposite.

The spurned women, angry at Aphrodite, killed all the male inhabitants while they slept.

Above: Statue of Aphrodite, Baiae, Syracuse, Italy

The King, Thoas, was saved by Hypsipyle, his daughter, who put him out to sea sealed in a chest from which he was later rescued.

The women of Lemnos lived for a while without men, with Hypsipyle as their Queen.

Above: Hypsipyle saves Thoas

During the visit of the Argonauts the women mingled with the men creating a new “race” called Minyae.

Jason fathered twins with the Queen.

Heracles pressured them to leave as he was disgusted by the antics of the Argonauts.

He had not taken part, which is truly unusual considering the numerous affairs he had with other women.

Above: Francisco de Zurbarán’s Death of Heracles, 1634, Prado Museum, Madrid, Spain

After Lemnos, the Argonauts landed among the Doliones, whose King Cyzicus treated them graciously.

He told them about the land beyond Bear Mountain, but forgot to mention what lived there.

What lived in the land beyond Bear Mountain were the Gegeines, a tribe of six-armed Earthborn giants who wore leather loincloths.

Above: Gegeine, Nuremburg Chronicle, 1493

While most of the crew went into the forest to search for supplies, the Gegeines saw that few Argonauts were guarding the ship and raided it. 

Heracles was among those guarding the ship at the time and managed to kill most of them before Jason and the others returned.

Once some of the other Gegeines were killed, Jason and the Argonauts set sail.

Above: The Argo

The Argonauts departed, losing their bearings and landing again at the same spot that night.

In the darkness, the Doliones took them for enemies and they started fighting each other.

The Argonauts killed many of the Doliones, among them King Cyzicus.

Cyzicus’ wife killed herself.

The Argonauts realized their horrible mistake when dawn came and held a funeral for him.

Above: Bust of Cyzicus, Bandirma Museum, Turkey

Soon, Jason reached the court of Phineus of Salmydessus in Thrace. 

Zeus had sent the Harpies to steal the food put out for Phineus each day.

Jason took pity on the emaciated King and killed the Harpies when they returned.

In other versions, Calais and Zetes chase the Harpies away.

In return for this favour, Phineus revealed to Jason the location of Colchis and how to pass the Symplegades (or The Clashing Rocks) and then they parted.

Above: Phineas and the Harpies

The only way to reach Colchis was to sail through the Symplegades (Clashing Rocks), huge rock cliffs that came together and crushed anything that traveled between them.

Phineus told Jason to release a dove when they approached these Islands, and if the dove made it through, to row with all their might.

If the dove was crushed, he was doomed to fail.

Jason released the dove as advised, which made it through, losing only a few tail feathers.

Seeing this, they rowed strongly and made it through with minor damage at the extreme stern of the ship.

From that time on, the Clashing Rocks were forever joined leaving free passage for others to pass.

Above: Jason releases a dove at the Symplegades, Howard Davies illustration for Charles Kingsley’s The Heroes, 1900

Jason arrived in Colchis (modern Black Sea coast of Georgia) to claim the Fleece as his own.

It was owned by King Aeetes of Colchis.

The Fleece was given to him by Phrixus.

Aeetes promised to give it to Jason only if he could perform three certain tasks.

Presented with the tasks, Jason became discouraged and fell into depression.

Above: Jason and the Argonauts arriving at Colchis, Palais de Versailles, France

However, Hera had persuaded Aphrodite to convince her son Eros to make Aeetes’ daughter, Medea, fall in love with Jason.

As a result, Medea aided Jason in his tasks.

Above: Fresco of Medea, Herucaleum, Ercolano, Italy

First, Jason had to plow a field with fire-breathing oxen, the Khalkotauroi, that he had to yoke himself.

Medea provided an ointment that protected him from the oxen’s flames.

Above: Jean François de Troy’s Jason taming the Khalkotauri, 1743, Barber Institute of Fine Arts, Birmingham, England

Then, Jason sowed the teeth of a dragon into a field.

The teeth sprouted into an army of warriors (spartoi).

Medea had previously warned Jason of this and told him how to defeat this foe.

Before they attacked him, he threw a rock into the crowd.

Unable to discover where the rock had come from, the soldiers attacked and defeated one another.

Above: Leonard Thiry’s Jason ploughing the earth and sowing the dragon’s teeth, 1550

His last task was to overcome the sleepless dragon which guarded the Golden Fleece.

Jason sprayed the dragon with a potion, given by Medea, distilled from herbs.

Above: John William Waterhouse’s Jason and Medea, 1907

The dragon fell asleep, and Jason was able to seize the Golden Fleece.

In some versions of the story, Jason attempts to put the guard serpent to sleep.

The snake is coiled around a column at the base of which is a ram and on top of which is a bird.

Above: Jason and the Snake, Douris Cup, Vatican Museum

He then sailed away with Medea.

Medea distracted her father, who chased them as they fled, by killing her brother Apsyrtus and throwing pieces of his body into the sea.

Aeetes stopped to gather them.

Above: Herbert James Draper’s The Golden Fleece, 1904

In another version, Medea lured Apsyrtus into a trap.

Jason killed him, chopped off his fingers and toes, and buried the corpse.

In any case, Jason and Medea escaped.

Above: Leonard Thiry’s Aeetes Accepts the Dismembered Corpse of Absyrte, 1563, Yale University Art Gallery, New Haven, Connecticut

On the way back to Iolcus, Medea prophesied to Euphemus, the Argo‘s helmsman, that one day he would rule Cyrene.

This came true through Battus, a descendant of Euphemus. 

Above: Euphemus, DC Comics

Zeus, as punishment for the slaughter of Medea’s own brother, sent a series of storms at the Argo and blew it off course.

The Argo then spoke and said that they should seek purification with Circe, a nymph living on the island of Aeaea.

Above: Honor Blackman as Hera, Jason and the Argonauts (1963 movie) – Her face was used as a model for the head on the stern of the ship. The sacred oak of the ship is here represented as the head of a woman with partial extending wings making up the stern of the ship. The painted head is modeled on the goddess Hera in the movie and has the ability to speak to Jason throughout the movie. Argus, the ship builder, said he was inspired to add that feature to the boat when creating it. Filmmakers gave this head the practical effect of being able to open and close when speaking to Jason.

Above: John William Waterhouse’s Circe Offering the Cup to Odysseus

After being cleansed, they continued their journey home.

Above: Map of Italy with Aeaea marked south of Rome, Abraham Ortelius, 1624

Chiron had told Jason that without the aid of Orpheus, the Argonauts would never be able to pass the Sirens — the same Sirens encountered by Odysseus in Homer’s epic poem, the Odyssey.

The Sirens lived on three small, rocky islands called Sirenum scopuli and sang beautiful songs that enticed sailors to come to them, which resulted in the crashing of their ship into the Islands.

Above: Statue of moaning Siren, Myrina, Turkey

When Orpheus heard their voices, he drew his lyre and played music that was more beautiful and louder, drowning out the Sirens’ bewitching songs.

Above: Ancient Roman floor mosaic image of Orpheus, Museo archaeologico regionale di Palermo, Italy

The Argo then came to the Island of Crete, guarded by the bronze man, Talos.

Above: (in red) Location of Crete

As the ship approached, Talos hurled huge stones at the ship, keeping it at bay.

Above: Talos tossing a stone, Cretan silver didrachma, Cabinet des médailles, Paris, France

Talos had one blood vessel which went from his neck to his ankle, bound shut by only one bronze nail (as in metal casting by the lost wax method).

Medea cast a spell on Talos to calm him.

She removed the bronze nail and Talos bled to death.

The Argo was then able to sail on.

Above: The death of Talos depicted on a 5th century BCE krater (vase), Jatta National Archaeological Museum, Ruvo di Puglia, Italy

Thomas Bullfinch has an antecedent to the interaction of Medea and the daughters of Pelias.

Above: Thomas Bullfinch (1796 – 1867)

Jason, celebrating his return with the Golden Fleece, noted that his father was too aged and infirm to participate in the celebrations.

He had seen and been served by Medea’s magical powers.

He asked Medea to take some years from his life and add them to the life of his father.

She did so, but at no such cost to Jason’s life.

Medea withdrew the blood from Aeson’s body and infused it with certain herbs.

Putting it back into his veins, returning vigour to him.

Above: Medea rejuvenates Aeson

Pelias’ daughters saw this and wanted the same service for their father.

Medea, using her sorcery, claimed to Pelias’ daughters that she could make their father smooth and vigorous as a child by chopping him up into pieces and boiling the pieces in a cauldron of water and magical herbs.

She demonstrated this remarkable feat with the oldest ram in the flock, which leapt out of the cauldron as a lamb.

The girls, rather naively, sliced and diced their father and put him in the cauldron.

Medea did not add the magical herbs.

Pelias was dead. 

Above: Georges Moreau de Tours’ The Murder of Pelias by His Daughters, 1878

Pelias’ son, Acastus, drove Jason and Medea into exile for the murder.

The couple settled in Corinth.

Above: View of modern day Corinth, Greece

In Corinth, Jason became engaged to marry Creusa, a daughter of the King of Corinth, to strengthen his political ties.

When Medea confronted Jason about the engagement and cited all the help she had given him, he retorted that it was not she that he should thank, but Aphrodite who made Medea fall in love with him.

Infuriated with Jason for breaking his vow that he would be hers forever, Medea took her revenge by presenting to Creusa a cursed dress, as a wedding gift, that stuck to her body and burned her to death as soon as she put it on.

Above: Presents from Medea to Creusa, Lucanian red-figure bell-krater from Apulia, 390 BCE, Louvre Museum, Paris

Creusa’s father, Creon, burned to death with his daughter as he tried to save her.

Then Medea killed the two boys that she bore to Jason, fearing that they would be murdered or enslaved as a result of their mother’s actions.

Above: Medea murders one of her children, Campanian red-figure neck-amphora from Cumae, 330 BCE, Louvre Museum, Paris

When Jason came to know of this, Medea was already gone.

She fled to Athens in a chariot of dragons sent by her grandfather, the sun god Helios.

Above: Medea on her chariot of dragons, Cleveland Museum, Ohio

Although Jason calls Medea most hateful to gods and men, the fact that the chariot is given to her by Helios indicates that she still has the gods on her side.

As Bernard Knox points out, Medea’s last scene with concluding appearances parallels that of a number of indisputably divine beings in other plays by Euripides.

Just like these gods, Medea “interrupts and puts a stop to the violent action of the human being on the lower level, justifies her savage revenge on the grounds that she has been treated with disrespect and mockery, takes measures and gives orders for the burial of the dead, prophesies the future,” and “announces the foundation of a cult.”

Above: Bernard Knox (1914 – 2010)

Later Jason and Peleus, father of the hero Achilles, attacked and defeated Acastus, reclaiming the throne of Iolcus for himself once more.

Jason’s son, Thessalus, then became King.

As a result of breaking his vow to love Medea forever, Jason lost his favor with Hera and died lonely and unhappy.

He was asleep under the stern of the rotting Argo when it fell on him, killing him instantly.

Above: Jason and the Argo

Pindar (518 – 438 BCE) employed the quest for the Golden Fleece in his 4th Pythian Ode (written in 462 BC), though the Fleece is not in the foreground.

Above: Bust of Pindar, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples, Italy

When Aeetes challenges Jason to yoke the fire-breathing bulls, the Fleece is the prize:

Let the King do this, the captain of the ship!

Let him do this, I say, and have for his own the immortal coverlet, the fleece, glowing with matted skeins of gold.”

Above: Jason claims the Golden Fleece

Several euhemeristic attempts to interpret the Golden Fleece “realistically” as reflecting some physical cultural object or alleged historical practice have been made.

For example, in the 20th century, some scholars suggested that the story of the Golden Fleece signified the bringing of sheep husbandry to Greece from the east.

From Turkey?

In other readings, scholars theorized it referred to golden grain or to the sun.

A more widespread interpretation relates the myth of the fleece to a method of washing gold from streams, which was well attested (but only from c. 5th century BCE) in the region of Georgia to the east of the Black Sea.

Sheep fleeces, sometimes stretched over a wooden frame, would be submerged in the stream, and gold flecks borne down from upstream placer deposits would collect in them.

The fleeces would be hung in trees to dry before the gold was shaken or combed out.

Alternatively, the fleeces would be used on washing tables in alluvial mining of gold or on washing tables at deep gold mines.

Judging by the very early gold objects from a range of cultures, washing for gold is a very old human activity.

Strabo describes the way in which gold could be washed:

It is said that in their country gold is carried down by the mountain torrents, and that the barbarians obtain it by means of perforated troughs and fleecy skins, and that this is the origin of the myth of the Golden Fleece — unless they call them Iberians, by the same name as the western Iberians, from the gold mines in both countries.

Above: Strabo (64 BCE – 24 CE)

Another interpretation is based on the references in some versions to purple or purple-dyed cloth.

The purple dye extracted from the purple dye murex snail and related species was highly prized in ancient times.

Clothing made of cloth dyed with Tyrian purple was a mark of great wealth and high station (hence the phrase “royal purple“).

The association of gold with purple is natural and occurs frequently in literature.

Above: Purple-dyed fabric and the shells of the spiny dye murex sea snail

The following are the chief among the various interpretations of the Fleece:

  1. It represents royal power.
  2. It represents the flayed skin of Krios (‘Ram‘), companion of Phrixus.
  3. It represents a book on alchemy.
  4. It represents a technique of writing in gold on parchment.
  5. It represents a form of placer mining practiced in Georgia.
  6. It represents the forgiveness of the Gods.
  7. It represents a rain cloud.
  8. It represents a land of golden grain.
  9. It represents the spring-hero.
  10. It represents the sea reflecting the sun.
  11. It represents the gilded prow of Phrixus’ ship.
  12. It represents a breed of sheep in ancient Georgia.
  13. It represents the riches imported from the East.
  14. It represents the wealth or technology of Colchis.
  15. It was a covering for a cult image of Zeus in the form of a ram.
  16. It represents a fabric woven from sea silk.
  17. It is about a voyage from Greece, through the Mediterranean, across the Atlantic to the Americas.
  18. It represents trading fleece dyed murex-purple for Georgian gold.

Above: Jason claims the Golden Fleece

And what does it represent to me?

Sadness.

We live in a material world where man’s dominion over all other creatures great and small infers a need to exploit nature for possible profit.

The exploitation of the outdoors to improve our living conditions indoors.

We call sheep animals, thus negating the possibility that they possess feelings and intelligence and, maybe, souls, such as we humans lay claim.

Sheep can be very companionable and amazingly compassionate.

(Please refrain from sheep shagging jokes here, pundits.)

Sheep, like humans, can be highly intelligent and be very dim.

Sheep always run uphill if they sense danger.

Sheep are usually gentle and unaggressive.

Most sheep have long, wooly tails to keep them warm.

Sheep can live on grass alone, but like other things too such as tree leaves and apples.

A sheep’s thick coat protects it from heat and cold.

Sheep can stand very cold weather better than cows, pigs or hens.

Some sheep have good powers of concentration similar to that shown by humans engaged in watching television.

Sheep prefer running water to still water to drink.

Sheep have very long memories.

Sheep play almost continually when they are young.

Are sheep so unlike humans after all?

I am not suggesting we abandon the use or consumption of animals simply because we have created a system of animal husbandry that has grown dependent on this.

What I am suggesting is consideration and compassion towards all God’s creation of which we all are part of this symbiotic circle of life.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Emilie Kip Baker, Stories of Old Greece and Rome / Burak Coşan, “Turkish government set to distribute 300 sheep to every farmer“, Hürriyet Daily News, 14 February 2018 / Sibel Alapala Demirhan, “Sheep farming in Uşak, Turkey: Economic structure, problems and solutions“, Saudi Journal of Biological Studies, Volume 26, Issue 2, February 2016 / Bernard Logan, “Australian shearers pack it in over sheer size of sheep“, The Times, 8 September 2020 / Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows / http://www.baauki.com / http://www.sheep101.com

Swiss Miss and the Mama of the Mountains

Eskişehir, Turkey, Tuesday 9 April 2022

Psychology, not one of my strengths, is a topic on my mind these days.

I find myself from time to time in the midst of psychological conflict with a wife who cannot comprehend that my search for personal happiness cannot revolve around being with her constantly, that I must be fulfilled in all the roles a man must do, besides husband.

I am engaged in mental battle with a colleague at work in Eskişehir who desires me to humble myself and apologize to her for a wrong I neither meant nor directed at her.

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Turkey

I am reading Orhan Pamuk’s The Museum of Innocence slowly and minutely, finding myself disturbed by the plot therein.

I find myself remembering an evening meeting at the school with a student who is a psychiatrist by trade.

I had great difficulty in sticking to the script of my Encounter (the Wall Street English name for the language elicitation sessions we have) and found myself quizzing her as to the nature of her profession:

What was most difficult about her job?

What was most fulfilling about her job?

How did her job affect her personal life?

As a father figure to most of the people with whom I am acquainted with in Eskişehir I find myself a witness and councillor to the relationships they are engaged in.

Somehow they equate age with wisdom.

Though it is true that I know a thing or two because I have seen a thing or two, this does in no way negate the application of the adage “no fool like an old fool” to my character.

A friend has confessed to me their struggle between the desires of the day and the longings for tomorrow.

There is a romance here, but is there a future here?

There may be a future out there, but will there be romance over there?

Tough call.

Tough decision.

A hard choice between two uncertainties.

The “out there” is presently focused on Vietnam where potential employment awaits.

All I know of Vietnam is that which I read.

My experience with the ‘Nam is limited to the perspective of my friend Swiss Miss (Heidi Hoi) and her time spent there.

But perhaps the experience of my Swiss friend might be instructive for my Eskişehir friend?

Thus I return to Heidi‘s story…..

Sa Pa, Vietnam, March 2019

Sa Pa is a mountain town – home to a great diversity of ethnic minority peoples.

If you were expecting a quaint alpine town, recalibrate your expectations.

Modern tourism development has seen Sapa’s skyline continually thrust upwards.

But you’re not here to hang out in town.

Above: Sa Pa, Vietnam

This is northern Vietnam’s premier trekking base, from where hikers launch themselves into a surrounding countryside of cascading rice terraces and tiny hill-tribe villages that seem a world apart.

Once you’ve stepped out into the lush fields, you’ll understand the Sapa area’s real charm.

Most of the ethnic minority people work their land on sloping terraces since the vast majority of the land is mountainous.

Their staple foods are rice and corn.

Rice, by its very nature of being a labour-intensive crop, makes the daily fight for survival paramount.

The unique climate in Sa Pa has a major influence on the ethnic minorities who live in the area.

With sub-tropical summers, temperate winters and 160 days of mist annually, the influence on agricultural yields and health-related issues is significant.

The geographical location of the area makes it a truly unique place for many interesting plants and animals, allowing it to support many inhabitants.

Many very rare or even endemic species have been recorded in the region.

The scenery of the Sa Pa region in large part reflects the relationship between the minority people and nature.

This is seen especially in the paddy fields carpeting the rolling lower slopes of the Hoàng Lién Mountains.

The impressive physical landscape which underlies this has resulted from the work of the elements over thousands of years, wearing away the underlying rock.

On a clear day – (it does happen) – the imposing peak of Fan Si Pan comes into view.

The last major peak in the Himalayan chain, Fan Si Pan offers a real challenge to even the keenest walker, the opportunity of staggering views, and a rare glimpse of some of the last remaining primary rain forest in Vietnam.

Geology, climate and human activity have combined to produce a range of very distinct habitats around Sa Pa.

Especially important is Sa Pa’s geographic position, at the convergence of the world’s 14 “biomes” (distinct biographic areas), producing an assemblage of plant and animal species unique in the world.

In 2014, Sa Pa ranked #9 in the top 10 rice terrace destinations of the world by Spot Cool Stuff.

The best time to take great photos of the yellow rice terraces in Sapa is September.

Occasionally, thick white snow is recorded in Sapa in winter (December to February), giving adventurous travellers a rare chance to admire snow-capped mountains.

It is a one-of-a-lifetime experience in a tropical country like Vietnam.

The Hoàng Lién Mountains are home to a rich variety of plants, birds, mammals, amphibians, reptiles and insects, many only found in northwestern Vietnam.

For this reason, the Hoàng Lién Nature Reserve was made a National Park in 2006.

Above: Hoàng Lién National Park

Hoàng Lién covers much of the mountain range to the immediate south of Sa Pa.

Forest type and quality change with increasing altitude.

At 2,000 meters the natural, undisturbed forest begins to be seen.

Above 2,500 meters dwarf conifers and rhododendrons predominate in the harsh “elfin forest“, (so called because a lack of topsoil and nutrients means that fully mature trees grow to measure only a few meters in height).

Higher still, only the hardiest of plant species are found.

At over 3,000 meters, Fan Si Pan’s summit can only support dwarf bamboo.

Around 7 million minority people (nearly 2/3 of Vietnam’s total minority population) live in the northern uplands, mostly in isolated villages.

The largest ethnic groups are Thai and Muong in the northwest, Tay and Nung in the northeast and Hmong and Dao dispersed throughout the region.

Historically, all these peoples migrated from southern China at various times throughout history:

Those who arrived first, notably the Tay and Thai, settled in the fertile valleys where they now lead a relatively prosperous existence, while late arrivals, such as the Hmong and Dao, took to living on the higher slopes.

Despite government efforts to integrate them into the Vietnamese community, most continue to follow a way of life that has changed very little over the centuries.

For an insight into the minorities’ traditional cultures and highly varied styles of dress, visit Hanoi’s informative Museum of Ethnology before setting off into the mountains.

To get in shape for a trek through the valley, try taking a short but steep hike to the top of Ham Rong Mountain, which overlooks the town from an elevation of around 2,000 metres.

Stone steps lead up to the peak where there are fine panoramic views on a clear day.

The pathway is lined with potted orchids, landscaped gardens and depictions of cartoon characters like Mickey Mouse.

To find the entrance to the park, follow Ham Rong to the north of the church in the town centre.

Above: Ham Rong Mountain

Vietnam’s highest mountain, Fan Si Pan (3143m) lies less than 5 km as the crow flies from Sa Pa, but it’s an arduous three- to five-day round trip on foot.

The usual route starts by descending 300 metres to cross the Muong Hoa River and then climbs almost 2,000 metres on overgrown paths through pine forest and bamboo thickets before emerging on the southern ridge.

The reward is a panorama encompassing the mountain ranges of northwest Vietnam, south to Son La Province and north to the peaks of Yunnan in China.

Above: Mount Fan Si Pan

Although it is a hard climb, the most difficult aspect of Fan Si Pan is its climate:

Even in the most favourable months of November and December it is difficult to predict a stretch of settled clear weather and many people are forced back by cloud, rain and cold.

Setting on top highlight destinations in the Sapa travel guide for adventurous travellers, Fansipan Mount is not only the highest peak in all of Vietnam but also the “roof of the Indochina peninsula”.

The actual trek boasts breathtaking panoramic views of majestic mountains, lush valleys and dense forests, challenging both amateur and professional hikers.

Above: The roof of Indochina

The pristine and rustic beauty of the Cave of Fairies enchants thousands of travellers from the very first glimpse of an eye.

The emerald waters of the Chay River surrounded by high cliffs turns this limestone cave into a heavenly corner on earth with charming scenery.

Above: Entrance to the Cave of Fairies

The Cave of Fairies looks like something straight out of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale.

Above: Ho Dong Tien Cave: The Cave of Fairies

Perching on the peak of Tram Ton pass on the Hoang Lien Son mountain range is Heaven’s Gate.

About 18 kilometers to the north of Sapa, it boasts a great view looking over the valleys between Fansipan, the roof of Indochina Peninsula.

As its name reveals, this destination brings a little feeling of Heaven with a sublime scenery featuring majestic mountains and extreme abyss.

Setting foot on Heaven’s Gate to grasp the beautiful scenery of the winding pass roads below will be an unforgettable memory for newcomers to Sapa.

Above: Heaven’s Gate

A guide is essential to trace indistinct paths, hack through bamboo and locate water sources if climbing Mount Fan Si Pan.

Hmong guides are said to know the mountain best.

Sa Pa hotels and tour agents can arrange guides and porters as required.

A popular, hassle-free way to visit minority villages is to join one of the organized trips offered by tour agencies in Hanoi, Sa Pa, Bac Ha and Ha Giang.

Generally, you are better off going with local companies as they are more familiar with the villages visited.

While it is possible to go alone to places like Cat Cat near Sa Pa, independent trekking is generally frowned upon and locals may not be as welcoming as they are to groups.

With typical wooden houses, flowing streams, elaborate brocades, and hospitable ethnic people, the enchanting Cat Cat is the most beautiful ancient village in Sapa.

Being the home to the Hmong ethnic group, this little hamlet is where local inhabitants retain the cultivation of flax and cotton with a long-standing tradition of weaving beautiful brocade fabrics.

Drop by the village, you can learn about one-of-a-kind customs and practices of Hmong through their local life as well as get an insight into their traditional culture while enjoying the local hospitality.

Above: Cat Cat, Vietnam

Behaviour that we take for granted may cause offence to some ethnic minority people –

Remember that you are a guest.

Apart from being sensitive to the situation and keeping an open mind, the following rules should be observed when visiting the ethnic minority areas.

  • Dress modestly, in long trousers or a skirt, in a T-shirt or shirt.
  • Be sensitive when taking photographs, particularly of older people who are generally suspicious of the camera – always ask permission first.
  • Only enter a house when you’ve been invited, and be prepared to remove your shoes.
  • Small gifts, such as fresh fruit from the local market, are always welcome, and it’s also a good idea to buy craftwork produced by the villagers – most communities have some embroidery, textiles or basketry for sale.
  • As a mark of respect, learn the local terms of address, either in a dialect or at least in Vietnamese, such as chao ong, chao ba.
  • Try to minimize your impact on the fragile local environment: take litter back to the towns with you and be sensitive when using wood and other scarce resources.

Hiking and enjoying nature is the name of the game in Sapa.

The most prominent attraction in the area around Sapa is Fan Si Pan, which is the highest mountain in Vietnam.

It’s only 19km from town. 

This may seem like a short distance, but the trek is not easy.

The rough terrain and unpredictable weather present some difficulties.

Tourists who are fit and have mountain climbing experience will enjoy this attraction the most as the peak is accessible all year round.

Technical climbing skills are not necessary, but endurance is a must.

Towering above Sapa are the Hoang Lien Mountains, once known to the French as the Tonkinese Alps and now a National Park.

These mountains include the often-cloud-obscured Fansipan (3,143 metres), Vietnam’s highest peak, regularly dubbed ‘the Roof of Indochina‘.

Fansipan’s wild, lonesome beauty has been somewhat shattered with the opening of a 6,292-metre-long cable car, taking people across the Muong Hoa Valley and up to near the summit in 15 minutes.

Above: Lower end of Mount Fan Si Pan cable car

Buy tickets at the ticket office in Sapa’s main square, from where a funicular train (50,000 VND return) shuttles passengers to the lower cable-car station.

After the cable-car ride you still face 600 steps to the summit, or you can take another funicular (70,000 VND one way) from Do Quyen, passing a series of pagodas and Buddhas to the summit.

Above: Do Quyen Waterfall

Expect crowds or clouds, depending on the weather.

Fan Si Pan can be found in Hoàng Lién National Park, which is an attraction in itself.

The park covers a picturesque mountain landscape and several forests, and serves as the habitat for a diverse set of animals.

Some species can only be found in northwest Vietnam and are highly endangered.

Nature lovers will truly appreciate this park.

Above: Hoàng Lién National Park

Other attractions that are part of the Hoang Lien National Park include the Cat Cat Village and the Ta Phin Village and cave.

Above: Cat Cat, Vietnam

Above: Ta Phin, Vietnam

Above: Ta Phin Cave

Trekking is the main activity in Sapa. 

Trekking maps are available from the Tourist Information Centre on Fansipan Street.

These maps are invaluable if you want to trek around the area without a guide.

They show the walking trails and trekking routes around town.

Most hotels in Sapa offer tourists guided half-day and day long treks, but the best places to inquire about these treks are the Cha Pa Garden, Auberge Hotel, Cat Cat View Hotel and Mountain View Hotel.

While it is possible to go hiking around Sapa on your own, it is better to have the assistance of a guide to guarantee a more enriching experience.

When it comes to longer treks or overnight stays in the villages, the knowledge of a local will come in handy.

Regardless of being on a walking tour or not, tribal women will walk with you and try to assist you in any possible way hoping for a tip. 

Above: Sa Pa, Vietnam

The road between Sapa and Lai Chau crosses the Tram Ton Pass on the northern side of Mount Fan Si Pan, 15 km from Sapa.

At 1,900 metres it is Vietnam’s highest mountain pass and acts as a dividing line between two climatic zones.

The lookout points here have fantastic views in clear weather.

Above: Mount Fan Si Pan

On the Sapa side it is often cold and foggy, but drop a few hundred metres onto the Lai Chau side and it can be sunny and warm.

Surprisingly, while Sapa is the coldest place in Vietnam, Lai Chau can be one of the warmest.

Above: Lai Chau

Most people also stop at 100-metre-high Thac Bac (Silver Waterfall, admission 20,000 VND), 12 km from Sapa.

A one-way/return xe om here costs 80,000/150,000 dong.

Above: Thac Bac Waterfall

Tourists who want to learn something new can go on community-based tours to Sin Chai, a Hmong village.

On most tours, overnight stays are arranged so people can learn about textiles, or tribal music and dance.

This is what they came for.

Above: Sin Chai, Vietnam

Most visitors come to Sa Pa to trek to minority villages in the Muong Hoa Valley, which separates Sa Pa from Mount Fan Si Pan.

Until 2016, only a few hardy trekkers each year were successful in scaling Vietnam’s highest peak, but thousands now head there each day thanks to the completion of a controversial 7km, three-wire cable car from Sa Pa to the top.

Stretching 6,292 metres, Fansipan Legend is the longest three-wire cable car in the world.

Its altitude gain of 1,410 metres is also the world’s highest for a three-rope cable car.

Though this enormous project (costing $210 million) was strongly criticized by environmentalists for threatening the continued existence of rare species of flora and fauna, most visitors find it an exciting experience.

Gondolas hold up to 30 people.

The journey up takes around 20 minutes and offers eye-popping views of rice terraces in the valley, churning rivers, waterfalls and dense woodland near the summit.

Unfortunately, the summit itself is cloaked in cloud more often than not, but there is still no shortage of visitors queuing to snap a selfie at the top.

There are souvenir shops and restaurants at the lower and upper terminals.

Take a couple of layers to put on when you get out of the cable car at the top.

Allow a few hours at the top and be prepared to stand in long queues to get on board at weekends.

Above: The summit of Mount Fan Si Pan

But I don’t recommend this.

Instead, walk.

For walking has a multitude of amateurs.

Everyone walks.

It is an activity that requires openness, engagement and few expenses.

While walking, the body and the mind work together, so that thinking becomes almost a physical rhythmic act.

Isn’t it really quite extraordinary to see that, since Man took his first step, no one has asked himself why he walks, how he walks, if he has ever walked, if he could walk better, what he achieves in walking – questions that are tied to all the philosophical, psychological and political systems which preoccupy the world.

(Honoré de Balzac, Theorie de la Demarche)

Above: Honoré de Balzac (1799 – 1850)

For Heidi, there was a joy to finding that her body was adequate to get her where she was going.

It was a gift to develop a more tangible, concrete relationship to her neighbourhood and its residents.

On the trail there is a more stately sense of time one has afoot.

On public transit, where things must be planned and scheduled beforehand, everything feels rushed and ruined.

There is a sense of place that can only be gained on foot.

Too many people nowadays live in a series of interiors – home, car, gym, office, shops, cable car – disconnected from one another.

On foot everything stays connected, for while walking one occupies the spaces between these interiors in the same way one occupies these interiors.

One lives in the whole world rather than in interiors built up against it.

From Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust: A History of Walking:

I had told Sono about an ad I found in the Los Angeles Times a few months ago that I had been thinking about ever since.

It was for a CD-ROM encyclopedia and the text that occupied a whole page read:

You used to walk across town in the pouring rain to use our encyclopedia.

We are pretty confident that we can get your kid to click and drag.

I think it was the kid’s walk in the rain that constituted the real education, at least of the senses and the imagination.

It is the unpredictable incidents between official events that add up to a life, the incalculable that give it value.

The random, the unscreened, allows you to find what you don’t know you are looking for.

You don’t know a place until it surprises you.

Walking is one way of maintaining a bulwark against this erosion of the mind, the body, the landscape.

Every walker is a guard on patrol to protect the ineffable.

When you give yourself to places, they give you yourself back.

The more one comes to know them, the more one seeds them with the invisible crop of memories and associations that will be waiting for you when you come back, while new places offer up new thoughts, new possibilities.

Exploring the world is one of the best ways of exploring the mind.

Walking travels both terrains.

Certainly, Heidi could have ascended in comfort, speed and predictability up to the summit of Mount Fan Si Pan.

Certainly, she could have gazed upon the ground below like some Olympian goddess, but doing so the senses are denied forests of huge trees that rise above, plants and animals caressing the Earth that gave them life, all things that are beautiful about existence.

If you are looking for a true adventure in Sapa, skip the cable car and venture into the lush forests of Fan Si Pan.

A good traveller has no fixed plans and is not intent upon arriving.

Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching

Above: Zhang Lu-Laozi (Lao Tzu) riding an ox through a pass: It is said that with the fall of the Chou dynasty, Lao Tzu decided to travel west through the Han Valley Pass. The Pass Commissioner, Yin-hsi, noticed a trail of vapor emanating from the east, deducing that a sage must be approaching. Not long after, Lao Tzu riding his ox indeed appeared and, at the request of Yin-hsi, wrote down his famous Tao Te Ching, leaving afterwards. This story thus became associated with auspiciousness.

My advice to the younger generation is:

Learn to relax and find meaning in the experience.

When you let go of the haste of normal life, it teaches you truths about yourself you had no idea you longed to know.

Amble out into the world at the whim of your curiosity, search for meaning, and follow whatever sparks your sense of adventure along the way.

Life is boundless and therefore fragmentary.

It is our imagination that brings meaning to these fragments, that gives these fragments a unity called Life.

All days are difficult.

The point is to find enough hope to get through the day.

Hope must be sought, discovered.

Walking is that quest for hope.

Writing is my expression of that quest for hope.

While it is possible to wander into the Muong Hoa Valley, pass through a couple of minority villages and return to Sa Pa in a day, for the full-on Sa Pa trekking experience you will want to overnight in a home-stay and get to know something about your hosts.

The cost to enter most villages is 50,000 dong, though this is included in the price of organized treks.

Expect to pay $60 per day per person for these, depending on the number of people in the group.

It is important to wear the right clothing when walking in these mountains:

Strong ankle support are the best footwear, though you can get away with training shoes in the dry season.

Choose thin, loose clothing.

Long trousers offer some protection from thorns and leeches.

Wear a hat and sunblock.

Take plenty of water.

Carry a basic medical kit.

If you plan on spending a night in a village, you will need warm clothing as temperatures can drop to around freezing.

You might want to take a sleeping bag, mosquito net and food, though these are usually provided on organized tours.

Finally, aggressive dogs can be a problem when entering villages, so it is a good idea to carry a strong stick when trekking.

Always be watchful for the venomous snakes that are common in this area.

The French first developed Sa Pa town, the gateway to the region, as a hill station and cool summer escape from Hanoi’s oppressive heat.

Their dominance in the area didn’t last long, though.

During the 1940s, Vietnamese independence fighters drove the colonists from the region, but not before the French bombed Sa Pa town, leaving nothing but ruins behind them.

It wasn’t until the 1990s that redevelopment began in earnest and tourists started to flock back to the region.

Now, trekking in Sa Pa is one of the biggest tourist activities in Vietnam.

Sa Pa town is the very definition of “tacky tourist town”, with hotels, happy hour signs and souvenir shops obliterating anything real, but Heidi has enjoyed waking up this morning to the quiet beauty of Sa Pa.

Sa Pa town is a crazy tourist trap with hundreds of guest houses offering happy hour cocktails and $5 beds.

A great place if drinking cheap cocktails with hordes of other tourists is your idea of a good time.

Walk along the maze of streets.

Above: Sa Pa, Vietnam

Venture into the Sa Pa Market to try fried banana, corn or sweet potato cake, or grilled fresh sweet potato or grilled corn sold by street vendors as an appetizer. 

If you are brave enough, try a grilled balut (put one balut on a cup, make a hole on top of the balut, add marinade and enjoy.

Above: Sa Pa Market

Walk further through small alleys where you can try different kinds of grilled sticks and rolls (beef, fish, pork or seafood on a stick or roll in mustard greens) and several glasses of inexpensive draft beer.

Or get a seat in a local restaurant, order a fresh salmon from local salmon farms in Sapa or sturgeon and let your chef to perform his skill. 

Salmon hotpot is perfect on a cool evening.

Above: Salmon hotpot

Although still beautiful and highly recommended visiting, Sa Pa is no longer the peaceful hill town it once was.

Many local stores have been replaced by stores selling items visitors need and want because it is more profitable for the local store owners. 

The streets are narrow, with many vans carrying visitors in and out, those same visitors walking the streets, and construction of new hotels contributing to the congestion. 

It can be a bit chaotic. 

So in Sa Pa town don’t expect unspoiled wilderness.

Above: Sa Pa, Vietnam

At the Sa Pa market, a tiny Hmong woman dressed in traditional clothing is waiting for Heidi.

She is the trekking guide, Mama of the Mountains.

The Hmong, known in China for centuries under the name Miao, used to be called Méo in Southeast Asia.

Above: Hmong women at market, Coc Ly, Vietnam

Their number is about three million and they are scattered over a vast territory stretching from southwest China (2 million) to North Vietnam (600,000), Laos (about 250,000), Thailand (150,000) and Myanmar (formerly Burma) (about 30,000).

Above: Flag of China

Above: Flag of Vietnam

Above: Flag of Laos

Above: Flag of Thailand

Above: Flag of Myanmar

They have been members of the Unrepresented Nations and Peoples Organization (UNPO) since 2007.

Above: Flag of Unrepresented Nations and Peoples Organization (UNPO)

The Hmong are easy to identify because of their red costume.

Above: Hmong costume

In the market food court, Heidi is given a bowl of tofu noodle soup for breakfast.

It is possibly vegetarian, though the piles of mystery meat on every table in the market do make visitors wonder.

Nourishment being the priority, Heidi slurps up the salty sour soup while her tour companions arrive in small, yawning groups.

After breakfast, the gang who had gathered to go trekking in Sapa splits into two groups and they set off up the backstreets and alleyways rising out of Sapa town.

After five minutes of hill climbing in the searing heat, everyone is drenched in sweat and panting hard.

After half an hour, everyone is questioning their life choices.

Heidi views her guide with great scepticism.

Mama – that’s what the guide insists her group calls her – is half Heidi‘s height, her English broken, her back slightly bent, her tone that will not suffer fools, but her smile is infectious.

To give the guide her credit, she knows exactly when to stop to prevent fainting or major heart trauma.

As they reach the day’s first real rest break, exposing a dramatic view of Sapa town far below, the clouds roll in and rain starts to drip out of the sky.

Nobody minds.

Everyone is hot and sticky and happy for the free shower.

The shower turns into a proper rain storm.

Sapa is home to Vietnam’s highest peak, Fan Si Pan, which tickles the clouds 3,143 metres above sea level, keeping watch over the terraced rice paddies that line Sapa’s steep valley walls.

Above: Sa Pa

Home to several ethnic minorities, chiefly the Hmong, the Dao and the Dai, Sapa has been attracting trekkers since the early 1900s.

They walk slowly along a small local path leading into the bottom of the valley, where some stalls are available that serve tea and fruits:

A perfect spot to take a rest and have lunch.

Above: The village of Lao Chai

After lunch, they visit the Tay people of Ta Van, which lies in the middle of the Muong Hoa Valley.

The Tay, who have been present in Vietnam from the beginning, are a branch of the Tay-Thai group.

In Sa Pa, the Tay ethnic group is concentrated in some southern communities, such as Ho village, Nam Sai village and Thanh Phu village.

It is easy to distinguish the Tay from other ethnic groups because their clothing is very different and has only one colour, dark indigo.

Above: Tay women

Above: Ta Van, Vietnam

They check in a local homestay for overnight.

The local hostess prepares dinner.

During dinner, Heidi tries to talk with them to understand more about their local life and thought. 

More rice?

More rice?

Have more rice?

Have more rice!

It wasn’t a question so much as a command — a very forceful command from their homestay host.

She had been around the entire table of trekkers twice already, wielding her plastic rice paddle like a sword.

After a meal that consists of great mountains of tofu, pumpkin, green beans, bean sprouts, mushroom stir fry and, for the carnivores in the group, fried pork, more rice is exactly what Heidi didn’t want.

When it was her turn to get third helpings, Heidi stretched her arms as far away from the tiny hostess and her plastic rice paddle as she could get.

No,” Heidi laughs.

No, I won’t eat it!

A minute later, after she thought had escaped, another half-cup of rice has been plopped it into her bowl.

At each meal, local women come around to sell their handmade bags, scarves and jewelry.

Even though Heidi isn’t interested, it doesn’t hurt to be friendly, make eye contact, and smile.

The vendors persist in showing her each item they have in their bags, so whether Heidi is friendly or not — she might as well make it a pleasant experience for everyone involved.

The native hill tribe women have learned that following trekkers and city walkers selling local crafts is a great business model. 

So it is best to expect and embrace it as part of the culture, while politely declining if you are not interested, or purchasing/donating if you are inclined. 

The local people are genuine and very friendly if you get to know them beyond their sales. 

Local hill tribe women wear traditional dress, not as much for tourists as it has been their tradition to wear it outside the home for centuries. 

It is not the tradition for men to do so. 

Acres and acres of rice paddies line the hillsides, passed down through the family for generations and still cultivated as a primary source of income.

Once the rice is finally eaten, the rice wine comes out in a much-used plastic 1.5L water bottle.

Once again, the hostess will not be denied.

The trekkers and their enthusiastic hostess down shot after shot of the fiery clear liquid, each drink being preceded by a group chant of “Một hai ba, yo!” or “One, two, three, cheers!”.

A messy, drunken evening ensues.

But the thing about messy drunken evenings at the end of a full day of trekking is that they invariably end early.

Everyone is snugly encamped under mosquito nets by 8:30 pm.

Before 11 pm, even the most foolhardy drinkers have turned out the lights and snored themselves to sleep.

Dreaming of the road ahead.

Not so early the next morning, they gather for a breakfast of thin pancakes with fresh local honey, bananas and fried eggs.

Heidi eats as much as her stomach can hold, knowing another day of heavy exertion lies ahead.

The large group sets off together, winding their way down through the village and out along a narrow muddy track onto the sparsely forested slopes of the mountain.

They pass tiny wooden houses where piglets, baby chicks, and puppies play in the dirt.

There are plenty of village children to meet, too.

Some kids are shy or indifferent to our passing.

Others shout “Hello!” or come running out for a high five.

Slightly ahead of the group, Heidi spots an adorable girl.

Xin chao!”, she shouts with a grin.

The little girl returns Heidi’s smile and her greeting.

With her mother and brother watching over her, Heidi bends down to say hello again and asks to take her picture.

The little girl strikes a perfect pose.

The streamlined group of long-term travellers falls into an easy rhythm as the rice fields and endless purple mountains spread out before them.

Today’s trek is much less hilly and far more satisfying than yesterday’s.

For a start, the clouds have rolled away and they enjoy spectacular views of the rice fields and orchards along the mountainside.

They are also further from Sa Pa town, meaning that they meet more locals and fewer tourists.

Finally, Heidi manages to have real conversations.

Between the quiet minutes of meditative walking, they share their most remarkable travel experiences, their embarrassing moments, their favourite music and their best travel tips.

They chat about the various study- and volunteer-abroad experiences each of them has had, how they handle pressures from family and friends back home, and their plans (or lack thereof) for the future.

Though Heidi enjoys the occasional party, this is what she was looking for on a group tour:

Meeting like-minded people with interesting observations about the world and their unceasing desire to explore it.

The village of Giang Ta Chai is the next stop, which we will reach by following a path over a bridge.

Lunch is provided near a waterfall, just before arrival at the village.

Above: Giang Ta Chai, Vietnam

Eventually, the trek returns to the hill above Hau Thao village.

Above: Hau Thao, Vietnam

They continue to trek to the next village of Ban Ho.

There lives the Tay tribe with their special wooden houses on stilts.

They overnight in Ban Ho village.

Above: Ban Ho, Vietnam

In the morning after breakfast the group walks around Ban Ho village and then trek to Love Waterfall to relax.

Above: Love Waterfall

The final day’s trek is all about making fast tracks back to Sa Pa town.

They follow a steep road that winds up out of the valley floor, taking them back the way they came.

Being on the road in a small group means they make quick time, though they still take plenty of breaks to high five the local kids, attempt to cuddle the large puppy population, and have at least one close encounter with a buffalo.

Once again, they are under the blistering sun for their climb.

A sticky layer of sunscreen, sweat, and rich red dirt envelops them all.

Clouds roll in, threatening more rain, but do little to cool the group.

They stop in a village café near their first night’s homestay for our final lunch of the trip.

It is a hub for people coming and going from Sapa, so once again Heidi is part of a noisy gang of tourists.

Mama shows up to herd the entire café full of trekkers to their various destinations:

Some are getting the 4 pm bus to Hanoi.

Others are taking the sleeper bus or the train.

Still others are hopping on a bus to Lao, while some are staying another night at the homestay.

The efficiency and humour Mama displays while arranging this frenzy of activity is a minor miracle.

The Hmong grow watermelons, oranges, dragon fruit and bananas in orchards around Fan Si Pan.

Tourism provides them with new opportunities to earn sustainable salary.

With that income, they can help their families and their communities.

Put on your trekking boots and step out into the lush green fields of Sapa in Vietnam.

Experience amazing nature brushed with every palette of green.

Meet and engage with the local minority people and immerse yourself into their culture. 

People often use “Sapa” to describe the entire region, not only the smaller Sapa town of 7,000, a hillside town overlooking the green surrounding ​valleys with views of Fan Si Pan, Vietnam’s highest peak, and the dozens of surrounding villages where 29,000 mostly native minorities have lived for hundreds of years. 

The area saw very few tourists before 1993, when both Vietnamese and foreign tourists started to come to see the beautiful terraced rice paddies, corn fields clinging to the sides of the valleys, the clouds rolling in and out, and to stay and relax in the beautiful countryside.

Of course, in conversations with Mama, Heidi wondered what it must be like to be a woman in Vietnam.

Women occupy both the domestic and outside sector in contemporary Vietnam.

Women’s participation in the economy, government, and society has increased.

In the domestic sphere, little progress has been made to improve gender relations.

Above: Young Vietnamese women

Traditional Confucian patriarchal values values have continued to persist, as well as a continued emphasis on the family unit.

This has comprised the main criticism of Vietnam Women’s Union, an organization that works towards advancing women’s rights.

Furthermore, recent shifts in Vietnam’s sex ratio show an increased number of men outnumbering women, which many researchers have stated to in part be caused by the two-child policy in Vietnam.

Confucianism’s emphasis on the family still impacts Vietnamese women’s lives, especially in rural areas, where it espouses the importance of premarital female virginity and condemns abortion and divorce.

Above: The teaching Confucius (551 – 479 BCE)

According to a 2006 study, over the past decades, little progression in gender relations have been made.

Household chores and labour are still primarily performed by Vietnamese women.

However, women in Vietnam have shown increased influence in familial decisions, such as household budgets and the education of the children.

In terms of childcare responsibility, men have shown an increased participation at the earlier ages of childcare, though women overall still bear the main responsibility. 

Women are seen primarily as mothers, and are considered to have shown “respect” to their husband’s lineage if they give birth to a boy.

While patrilineal ancestor worship shows girls as “outside lineage” (họ ngoại), it consider boys to be “inside lineage” (họ nội).

Vietnamese society tends to follow the ancestral line through males, pushing women to the periphery.

As aforementioned Vietnam has a two child policy.

Some families want at least one boy, but would prefer two boys to two girls, so they use ultrasound machines to determine the baby’s sex to later abort female offspring.

Above: Five sisters, Hanoi, Vietnam, 1953

The main religion in Vietnam are traditional folk beliefs.

This is not an organized religion, however it does adopt many Confucian views.

One of the main views that it takes from Confucius is the Patrilineal Society.

Men are the head of the family and more their lineage is to be protected.

As it pertains to motherhood, Vietnam women are seen as and used primarily as mothers.

Female virginity is of extreme importance, especially in rural areas, and the Society condemns abortion and female divorce.

As said, if a woman wants to show respect to her husband, the best way she can do that is to bear him a son.

Above: “Heaven will instruct the master like a wooden-clapper bell to awaken everyone to the Way.” — Analects 3.24

The issue of domestic violence has faced scrutiny in Vietnam.

In 2007, Vietnamese legislation passed the Law on Prevention and Control Domestic Violence, which reported that 32% of Vietnamese women have suffered sexual violence from their spouses, while 54% of women in Vietnam have suffered from emotional violence.

Speculation has rose on the viability of divorce as a solution to those in situations of domestic violence.

This is due to the prevalent local attitudes and measures taken towards preventing divorce in order to preserve the family unit, rather than helping victims escape domestic abuse.

Additionally, surveys have indicated that 87% of domestic violence victims in Vietnam do not seek support for their situation.

In a study comparing Chinese and Vietnamese attitudes towards women, more Vietnamese than Chinese said that the male should dominate the family and a wife had to provide sex to her husband at his will.

Above: A traditional Vietnamese country wedding

(From this male blogger’s point-of-view, I am not suggesting that a wife must provide sex to her husband at his will, but it is the hope that she wants to have sex with her partner with the same desired frequency.)

Violence against women was supported by more Vietnamese than Chinese.

Domestic violence was more accepted by Vietnamese women than Chinese women.

Some Vietnamese women from Lào Cai who married Chinese men stated that among their reasons for doing so was that Vietnamese men beat their wives, engaged in affairs with mistresses, and refused to help their wives with chores, while Chinese men actively helped their wives carry out chores and care for them.

Above: Lào Cai City, Vietnam

Vietnamese women travelling to China as mail order brides for rural Chinese men to earn money for their families and a rise in the standard of living, matchmaking between Chinese men and Vietnamese women has increased and has not been effected by troubled relations between Vietnam and China.

Above: Flags of Vietnam (left) and China (right)

Vietnamese mail order brides have also gone to Taiwan and South Korea for marriage.

Above: Flag of Taiwan

Above: Flag of South Korea

The main human rights issue in Southeast Asia is human trafficking.

According to one study, Southeast Asia is a large source of human trafficking, with many individuals who fall victim to human trafficking being sent to Australia.

Above: Flag of Australia

Vietnam, as well as other countries such as Cambodia, Laos, and the Philippines, are major source countries for human trafficking.

Above: Flag of Cambodia

Above: Flag of the Philippines

While many of the victims that are a part of human trafficking are forced/kidnapped/enslaved, others were lured in under the assumption that they were getting a better job.

According to a policy brief on human trafficking in Southeast Asia, although victims include girls, women, boys, and men, the majority are women.

Women tend to be more highly targeted by traffickers due to the fact that they are seeking opportunity in an area of the world where limited economic opportunities are available for them.

Unskilled and poorly educated women are commonly led into human trafficking.

According to the United Nations Office on Drug and Crime (UNODC) report, women are trafficked the most.

The main causes of human trafficking in Southeast Asia are universal factors such as poverty and globalization.

Industrialization is arguably also another factor of human trafficking.

Many scholars argue that industrialization of booming economies, like that of Thailand and Singapore, created a draw for poor migrants seeking upward mobility and individuals wanting to leave war torn countries.

These migrants were an untapped resource in growing economies that had already exhausted the cheap labor from within its borders.

A high supply of migrant workers seeking employment and high demand from an economy seeking cheap labor creates a perfect combination for human traffickers to thrive.

Above: Flag of Singapore

The sex industry emerged in Southeast Asia in the mid 20th century as a way for women to generate more income for struggling migrants and locals trying to support families or themselves.

Sex industries first catered to military personnel on leave from bases, but as military installations began to recede the industry turned its attention to growing tourism.

Above: Scene from Good Morning, Vietnam – Chintara Sukapatana (Trinh) and Robin Williams (Adrian Cronauer)

Even as the industry is looked down upon today there is still a large underground market that is demanding from traffickers.

Between 2005 and 2009, 6,000 women, as well as younger girls, were found to be in the human trafficking statistic.

The majority of the women and girls are trafficked to China, 30% are trafficked to Cambodia, and the remaining 10% are trafficked to the destinations across the world.

Several cases have occurred where Vietnamese women were abducted or deceived to be sold to Chinese men.

Totalling several thousands, in a significant number of cases the victims were underage.

Above: These Vietnamese girls were abducted and sold in China.

Overall literacy rates across Vietnam are high, with access to education being relatively equal between males and females.

However, regional differences are still apparent, especially amongst the mountainous northern regions.

For example, in one study, the region of Lai Chau was found to have a literacy rate for men double that of the women’s literacy rate in the region.

There is a gender gap in education, with males being more likely to attend school and sustain their education than females.

Women and men tend to be segregated into different jobs, with more women serving in educational, communications, and public services than men.

Above: Vietnamese village school, Tam Duòng

In contemporary Vietnam, there has been significant economic advancement for women, especially for middle-class Vietnamese women.

Middle-class women have increasingly become more involved in the workforce sector outside of the house, with 83% of “working-age women” being involved in the labour force.

These women have been taking on professions dealing with a variety of fields such as sales, marketing, and advertising.

Furthermore, women in the contemporary workforce and economy experience much higher wages than the generations before them.

However, research has shown that many inequalities for women still exist, with women still receiving uneven employment benefits compared to their male counterparts. 

According to one study, 76% of women in the labor force are concentrated in the agricultural sector.

And although under 10% of women in the labour force work in the textile industry, 80% of labourers in the textile industry are women.

Local credit associations do not feel secure giving loans to single mothers, which has resulted in a poverty increase for households that are led by a woman.

The average wage in the country of Vietnam was US$1,540 in 2012.

In 2011, studies showed “that women earn 13% less than men“.

The 2012 survey on workers’ salaries carried out by the Vietnam General Confederation of Labour (VGCL) in enterprises nationwide revealed that female workers’ salaries are only 70-80% of their male colleagues’.

The global average gender pay gap is hovering around 17%.

Above: Logo of the Vietnam General Confederation of Labour

According to Nguyen Kim Lan, ILO national project coordinator, the only two occupational fields where pay is equal is in logistics, and household care.

One reason for the disparity is that companies view women as wanting to stay at home and perform more gender role duties.

More than 70% of labourers in Vietnam are women.

The International Labour Organization recently stated that the gender pay gap has started to increase, according to the ILO Global Wage Report during the 2012 – 2013 period, compared to 1999 – 2007. 

A 2% increase in the gap was recorded in Vietnam in the period.

In recent decades, Vietnam has stressed the importance of gender equality.

Above: Emblem of Vietnam

To address this goal, the Vietnam Women’s Union, an organization founded in 1930 under the Vietnam Communist Party, has pursued the advancement of women in many arenas.

Above: Symbol of the Vietnamese Communist Party

However, they also stress many aspects of Confucian doctrine that keeps a male-dominated hierarchy in place.

As of 2000, their membership has expanded to 11 million, which compromises for 60% of the female population in Vietnam over the age of 18.

Because of their large membership, the Vietnam Women’s Union has frequently been regarded as the representative for women in politics.

Therefore, the VWU frequently advises during the policy-making of gender-related or women’s issues.

However, their role has been disputed due to its shortcomings in promoting women’s right effectively.

In the 1980s, the Vietnam Women’s Union increased paid maternity leave and received a promise that they would be asked before the government implemented any policies that could potentially affect the welfare of women.

However, the increased maternity leave was restored to its original length a few years later.

While there are limits in the Vietnam Women’s Union that prohibit gender change in certain areas, there does not seem to be other organized civil society groups that are fighting for women’s rights.

Two areas that have seen little change throughout recent decades are the roles women play in the family, specifically motherhood, and the human rights problems women traditionally face in the region.

In 2001, the Vietnam Women’s Union was appointed to head the planning of a new legislation, a Law on Gender Equality, which set out to equalize conditions between both genders.

The legislation included several stipulations, including laws pertaining to retirement age for both men and women.

The law went into effect mid 2007.

Their focus on Confucian values which uphold a male-dominated hierarchy has received criticism.

In numerous studies, the VWU has been criticized for its lack of action against gender norms while placing too much emphasis on family structure.

Furthermore, while their efforts have worked towards improving women’s status, the VWU faces criticism for their lack of advocacy towards women’s power.

Above: Logo of the Vietnam Women’s Union

Invariably, Heidi thinks of her life as a woman in Switzerland by comparison.

Above: Switzerland

Tradition dictates that the place of Swiss women is in the home in charge of housework and child care.

Being in a society with strong patriarchal roots, Swiss tradition also places women under the authority of their fathers and their husbands.

Such adherence to patriarchal domination changed and improved when the women of Switzerland gained their right to vote at the federal level on 7 February 1971.

However, despite of gaining status of having equal rights with men, some Swiss women still have to be able to attain education beyond the post-secondary level, thus they earn less money than men, and they occupy lower-level job positions.

According to swissinfo.ch in 2011, Switzerland’s State Secretariat for Economic Affairs (Seco) were encouraging business companies to “appoint more women to top-level positions“.

Those who are already working in business companies, according to same report, mentions that “women earn on average 20% less than men” in Switzerland, and the ratio was 6 out of 10 women were working part-time.

Prominent Swiss women in the fields of business and law include Emilie Kempin-Spyri (1853 – 1901), the first woman to graduate with a law degree and to be accepted as an academic lecturer in the country, and Isabelle Welton, the head of IBM Switzerland and one of few women in the country to hold a top-level position in a business firm.

Above: Emilie Kempin-Spyri

Above: Isabelle Welton

Above: Logo of International Business Machines (IBM)

Family life has been traditionally patriarchal, following the model of a male breadwinner and a female housewife.

In Europe, Switzerland was one of the last countries to establish gender equality in marriage:

Married women’s rights were severely restricted until 1988, when legal reforms providing gender equality in marriage, abolishing the legal authority of the husband, came into force (these reforms had been approved in 1985 by voters in a referendum, who narrowly voted in favour with 54.7% of voters approving).

Adultery was decriminalized in 1989.

In 1992, the law was changed to end discrimination against married women with regard to national citizenship.

Marital rape was criminalized in 1992.

In 2004 it became a state offense in Switzerland.

Divorce laws were also reformed in 2000 and 2005.

In 2013, further reforms to the Civil Code followed, removing the remaining discriminatory provisions regarding the spouses’ choice of family name and cantonal citizenship law.

Until the late 20th century, most cantons had regulations banning unmarried cohabitation of couples.

Above: Bern, the capital of Switzerland

The last canton to end such prohibition was Valais in 1995.

Above: Flag of the Canton of Valais

As of 2015, 22.5% of births were to unmarried women.

Women face significant struggles with regards to work for pay.

Although most women are employed, many are so on a part-time basis or in marginal employment.

The view that women, especially married women, should not work full-time remains prevalent.

Among the OECD, only the Netherlands has more women working part-time.

Above: Flag of the Netherlands

 

Although the law no longer requires the husband’s consent for a wife’s work, in job interviews women are often asked for it. 

Taxation penalizing dual-income families exists in some cantons.

The OECD has stated that:

The lack of family-friendly policy and workplace support makes it very difficult for many Swiss parents, usually mothers, to combine work and family life.”

The OECD has also urged Switzerland to end the practice of irregular and interrupted school hours which makes it difficult for mothers to work, and to revise its tax and supplementary benefits policies.

Above: Logo for Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development

Despite all these, women have a legal right to work and to not be discriminated in the workforce, under the 1996 equality law.

In 2005, paid maternity leave was introduced in Switzerland, after voters approved it in a referendum.

Four previous attempts to secure it had previously failed at the ballot box.

As in other Western countries, the 1990s and the 21st century saw reforms with regard to laws on domestic violence. 

Marital rape was made illegal in 1992, and since 2004 marital rape is prosecutable ex-officio (meaning it can be prosecuted even if the victim does not file an official complaint).

Switzerland also ratified the Council of Europe Convention on Action against Trafficking in Human Beings in 2012, and the Istanbul Convention in 2017.

Above: Women of Champery, Switzerland, 1912

Eskisehir, Turkey, Tuesday 10 May 2022

The Council of Europe Convention on preventing and combating violence against women and domestic violence, better known as the Istanbul Convention, is a human rights treaty of the Council of Europe against violence against women and domestic violence which was opened for signature on 11 May 2011, in Istanbul, Turkey.

The Convention aims at prevention of violence, victim protection and to end the impunity of perpetrators.

As of March 2019, it has been signed by 45 countries and the European Union.

The Convention came into force on 1 August 2014.

Above: Signatories of the Istanbul Convention – Green: signed and ratified / Yellow: only signed / Red: not signed / Purple: denounced and withdrawn

In a press release in November 2018, the Council of Europe stated:

Despite its clearly stated aims, several religious and ultra conservative groups have been spreading false narratives about the Istanbul Convention.”

The release stated that the Convention does not seek to impose a certain lifestyle or interfere with personal organization of private life.

Instead, it seeks only to prevent violence against women and domestic violence.

The release states that:

The Convention is certainly not about ending sexual differences between women and men.

Nowhere does the Convention ever imply that women and men are or should be ‘the same’ and that the Convention does not seek to regulate family life and/or family structures:

It neither contains a definition of ‘family’ nor does it promote a particular type of family setting.”

According to Balkan Insight, criticism of the Convention, strongest in Central and Eastern Europe and mainly by the far right and national conservatives, has little foundation in its actual content.

Using disinformation, populist rhetoric, and appeals to Christian and Islamic morality, critics have managed to reframe what is essentially a set of guidelines that creates ‘a comprehensive legal framework and approach to combat violence against women’, into a sinister attempt by Western Europeans to foist their overly-liberal policies on reluctant societies further east.

In 2021, Turkey became the first and only country to withdraw from the Convention, after denouncing it on 20 March 2021.

The Convention ceased to be effective in Turkey on 1 July 2021, following its denunciation.

On 20 March 2021, Turkish President Erdoğan announced his country’s withdrawal from the Convention by a presidential decree published in the official government gazette.

Above: Flag of Turkey

(From The Guardian, 24 November 2014:

Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan has been accused of blatant sexism after declaring that women are not equal to men and claiming feminists in Turkey reject the idea of motherhood.

The devoutly Muslim president said biological differences meant women and men could not serve the same functions, adding that manual work was unsuitable for the “delicate nature” of women.

Above: Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

His comments ignited a firestorm of controversy on Twitter and one well-known female TV news anchor even took the unusual step of condemning the remarks during a bulletin.

Above: Logo of Twitter

Our religion Islam has defined a position for women: motherhood,” Erdoğan said at a summit in Istanbul on justice for women, speaking to an audience including his own daughter Sumeyye.

Above: Sumeyye Erdoğan and daughter Esra

Some people can understand this, while others can’t.

You cannot explain this to feminists because they don’t accept the concept of motherhood.

He recalled:

I would kiss my mother’s feet because they smelled of Paradise.

She would glance coyly and cry sometimes.

Motherhood is something else,” he said, claiming that it should be a woman’s priority because Islam exalts women as mothers.

Above: Mother and son, Tenzile and Recep Erdoğan

He went on to say that women and men could not be treated equally “because it goes against the laws of nature”.

Their characters, habits and physiques are different.

You cannot place a mother breastfeeding her baby on an equal footing with men.

You cannot make women work in the same jobs as men do, as in Communist regimes.

You cannot give them a shovel and tell them to do their work.

This is against their delicate nature.

Erdoğan was apparently referring to the practice during and after the Second World War for women in Communist states such as the USSR to do heavy manual work in factories or in roles such as tram drivers.

Above: Flag of the Soviet Union (1955 – 1991)

He complained that in previous decades in Turkey women in Anatolian villages had done the back-breaking work while their menfolk idled away the time.

Wasn’t it the case in Anatolia?

Our poor mothers suffered immensely and got hunchbacks while the men were playing cards and rolling dice at teahouses,” he said.

What women need is to be able to be equivalent, rather than equal.

Because equality turns the victim into an oppressor and vice versa.”

Erdoğan has been married since 1978 to his wife Emine, with whom he has two sons and two daughters.

Above: Emine Erdoğan

Aylin Nazliaka, an MP from the main opposition Republican People’s party said Erdoğan “ostracised” women by portraying them as delicate, weak and powerless and limiting their role to motherhood.

Erdoğan has publicly committed a hate crime.

But I will continue to fight this man who sees no difference between terrorists and feminists,” she said in a written statement.

Above: Aylin Nazliaka

Sule Zeybek, an anchorwoman at the Turkish broadcaster Kanal D, hit back at Erdoğan’s comments live on television during a news bulletin.

I am a feminist and thank God I’m a mum.

I wouldn’t kiss my mother’s feet but I have great respect for her,” she said.

Above: Sule Zeybek

The Islamic-rooted government of Erdoğan has long been accused by critics of seeking to erode the country’s secular principles and limiting the civil liberties of women.

Erdoğan has drawn the ire of feminist groups for declaring that every woman in Turkey should have three children and with proposals to limit abortion rights, the morning-after pill and caesarean sections.

Seen by critics as increasingly authoritarian, he has repeatedly lashed out personally at female journalists who displeased him.

Above: Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

But the government’s attitude towards women came under even greater scrutiny after the Deputy Prime Minister, Bülent Arinç, caused a furore in August by suggesting women should not laugh loudly in public.

Above: Bülent Arinç

Activists also say that government officials’ remarks about women and how they should be treated leave them exposed to violence.

According to non-governmental organisations, more than 200 women in Turkey died as a result of domestic violence in the first six months of 2014.)

Above: Feminist protest, Istanbul, 29 July 2017

The notification for withdrawal has been reported to the Secretary-General by Turkey on 22 March 2021 and the Secretary-General has announced that denunciation will enter into force on 1 July 2021.

The withdrawal has been criticized both domestically and internationally, including by the opposition parties in the country, foreign leaders, the Council of Europe, NGOs and on social media.

The COE Secretary-General Marija Pejčinović Burić described the decision as “devastating news” and a “huge setback” that compromises the protection of women in Turkey and abroad.

Above: Marija Pejčinović Burić

A CHP spokesperson claimed that the agreement cannot be withdrawn without parliamentary approval, since it was approved by Parliament on 24 November 2011.

According to the CHP and various lawyers, the right to approve the withdrawal belongs to the Parliament according to Article 90 of the Constitution.

Above: Logo of the Republican People’s Party (CHP)

However, the government claims that the President has the authority to withdraw from international agreements as stated in Article 3 of the Presidential Decree #9.

Above: The Court of Justice, Istanbul

The decision sparked protests across Turkey and comes at a time where the domestic violence against women and femicides in the country are soaring.

US President Joe Biden described the move as “deeply disappointing“.

Above: Joe Biden

The EU’s foreign policy chief Josep Borrell urged the authorities to reverse the decision. 

Above: Josep Borrell

In an official statement, the Turkish Presidency blamed the LGBT community for the withdrawal from the Convention, arguing that:

The Istanbul Convention, originally intended to promote women’s rights, was hijacked by a group of people attempting to normalize homosexuality – which is incompatible with Turkey’s social and family values.

Hence, the decision to withdraw.

(Homosexual activity is legal in Turkey.

However, LGBT people in Turkey face discrimination, harassment and even violence from their relatives, neighbors, etc.

The Turkish authorities have carried out many discriminatory practices.

Despite these, LGBT acceptance in Turkey is growing.

In a survey conducted by Kadir Has University in Istanbul in 2016, 33% of respondents said that LGBT people should have equal rights, which increased to 45% in 2020.

Another survey by Kadir Has University in 2018 found that the proportion of people who would not want a homosexual neighbour decreased from 55% in 2018 to 47% in 2019. 

A poll by Ipsos in 2015 found that 27% of the Turkish public was in favor of legalizing same-sex marriage and 19% supported civil unions instead.

Istanbul Pride was held for the first time in 2003.

Turkey became the first Muslim-majority country to hold a gay pride march.

It was also the first gay pride in the Middle East and the Balkans.

Above: Istanbul Pride, 2013 –
Istanbul Pride was organized in 2003 for the first time.
Since 2015, parades in Istanbul were denied permission by the government.
The denials were based on security concerns, but critics claimed the bans were ideological.
Despite the refusal hundreds of people defied the ban each year.)

(In 2002, Erdoğan said that:

Homosexuals must be legally protected within the framework of their rights and freedoms.

From time to time, we do not find the treatment they get on some television screens humane.

However, in 2017 Erdoğan has said that empowering LGBT people in Turkey was “against the values of our nation“.

Above: Flag of the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender community

In 2020, amid the COVID-19 pandemic, Turkey’s top Muslim scholar and President of Religious Affairs, Ali Erbaş, said in a Friday Ramadan announcement that the country condemns homosexuality because it “brings illness“, insinuating that same sex relations are responsible for the COVID-19 pandemic.

Recep Tayyip Erdoğan backed Erbaş, saying that what Erbaş “said was totally right“.)

Above: Ali Erbaş

That view is shared by conservative groups and officials from Erdoğan’s Islamic-oriented ruling party, the AKP, who claim that the agreement is promoting homosexuality, encouraging divorce and undermining what constitutes a “sacred” family in their view. 

Above: Logo of the Justice and Development Party (AKP)

Answering to criticism over the legality of withdrawal by the Presidency instead of Parliament, Erdoğan insisted that the withdrawal was “completely legal“.

Above: Seal of the President of Turkey

On 29 June, Turkey’s top administrative court rejected a motion for stay of execution regarding Erdogan’s sole decision to withdraw from the Istanbul Convention on violence against women and ruled that it was legal for Erdoğan to withdraw the country out of the Convention since the authority to ratify and annul international agreements was among the president’s powers, according to Article 104 of the Constitution.)

Above: Logo of the Constitutional Court of Turkey

From Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust: A History of Walking:

Jean-Jacques Rousseau remarked in his Confessions:

I can only meditate when I am walking. When I stop, I cease to think. My mind only works with my legs.

Above: Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712 – 1778)

In 1749 the writer and encyclopedist Denis Diderot was thrown into jail for writing an essay questioning the goodness of God.

Above: Denis Diderot (1713 – 1784)

Rousseau, a close friend of Diderot’s at the time, took to visiting him in jail, walking the six miles from his home in Paris to the dungeon of the Château de Vincennes.

Above: Château de Vicennes

Though that summer was extremely hot, Rousseau walked because he was too poor to travel by other means.

In order to slacken my pace, I thought of taking a book with me.

One day I took the Mercure de France and, glancing through it as I walked, I came upon this question propounded by the Dijon Academy for the next year’s prize:

Has the progress of the sciences and arts done more to corrupt morals or improve them?

The moment I read that I beheld another universe and became another man.

Rousseau won the prize and the published essay became famous for its furious condemnation of such progress.

Above: Logo of the Académie des sciences, arts et humanités, Dijon

In his Discourse on Inequality, Rousseau portrays Man in his natural condition “wandering in the forests, without industry, without speech, without domicile, without war and without liaisons, with no need of his fellow men, likewise with no desire to harm them.”

In this ideology, walking functions as an emblem of the simple man and as, when the walk is solitary and rural, a means of being in nature and outside society.

The walker has the detachment of the traveller but travels unadorned and unaugmented, dependent on his or her own bodily strength rather than on conveniences that can be made and bought.

Walking is, after all, an activity essentially unimproved since the dawn of time.

Rousseau walked extensively throughout his life.

His wandering life began when he returned to Geneva from a Sunday stroll in the country, only to find that he had come back too late:

The gates of the city were shut.

Above: Geneva, Switzerland

Impulsively, the 15-year-old Rousseau decided to abandon his birthplace, his apprenticeship and eventually his religion.

He turned from the gates and walked out of Switzerland.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

In Italy and France he found and left many jobs, patrons and friends during a life that seemed aimless….

Above: Flag of Italy

Above: Flag of France

Until the day he read the Mercure de France and found his vocation.

Ever after, he seemed to be trying to recover the carefree wandering of his youth.

He writes of one episode:

I do not remember ever having had in all my life a spell of time so completely free from care and anxiety as those seven or eight days spent on the road.

This memory has left me the strongest taste for everything associated with it, for mountains especially and for travelling on foot.

I have never travelled so except in my prime and it has always been a delight to me.

He continued to walk at every opportunity.

Elsewhere he claimed:

Never did I think so much, exist so vividly and experience so much.

Never have I been so much myself as in the journeys I have taken alone and on foot.

There is something about walking that stimulates and enlivens my thoughts.

When I stay in one place I can hardly think at all.

My body has to be on the move to set my mind going.

The sight of the countryside, the succession of pleasant views, the open air, a sound appetite and the good health I gain by walking, the easy atmosphere of an inn, the absence of everything that makes me feel my dependence, of everything that recalls me to my situation – all these serve to free my spirit, to lend a greater boldness to my thinking, so that I can combine them, select them and make them mine as I will, without fear or restraint.

It was, of course, an ideal walking that Rousseau described – chosen freely by a healthy person amid pleasant and safe circumstances.

It is this kind of walking that would be taken up by his countless heirs as an expression of well-being, harmony with nature, freedom and virtue.

Rousseau portrays walking as both an exercise of simplicity and a means of contemplation.

During the time he wrote the Discourses, he would walk alone in the Bois de Boulogne after dinner, “thinking over subjects for works to be written and not returning till night“.

Above: Bois de Boulogne as seen from the Tour d’Eiffel, Paris, France

A solitary walker is in the world, but apart from it, with the detachment of the traveller rather than the ties of the worker, the dweller, the member of a group.

Walking seems to have become Rousseau’s chosen mode of being, because within a walk he is able to live in thought and reverie, to be self-sufficient, and thus to survive the world.

Walking provides him with a literal position from which to speak.

As a literary structure, the recounted walk encourages digression and association.

A century and a half later, James Joyce and Virginia Woolf would, in trying to describe the workings of the mind, develop the style called stream of consciousness.

Above: James Joyce (1882 – 1941)

Above: Virginia Woolf (1882 – 1941)

In their novels Ulysses and Mrs. Dalloway, the jumble of thoughts and recollections of their protagonists unfolds best during their walks.

This kind of unstructured, associative thinking is the kind most connected to walking.

Walking is not an analytical act but an improvisational one.

Soren Kierkegaard is the other philosopher who has much to say about walking and thinking.

He chose Copenhagen as his place to walk and study his human subjects.

The streets of Copenhagen were his reception room.

Kierkegaard’s great daily pleasure seems to have been walking the streets of his city.

It was a way to be among people for a man who could not be with them, a way to bask in the faint human warmth of brief encounters, acquaintances’ greetings and overheard conversations.

Above: Nyhavn Canal, Copenhagen, Denmark

A lone walker is both present and detached from the world around, more than an audience but less than a participant.

Walking assuages or legitimizes this alienation:

One is mildly disconnected because one is walking, not because one is incapable of connecting.

Walking provided Kierkegaard, like Rousseau, with a wealth of casual contacts with his fellow humans and it facilitated contemplation.

Kierkegaard wrote:

In order to bear mental tension as mine, I need diversion, the diversion of chance contacts on the streets and alleys, because associations with a few exclusive individuals is actually no diversion.

He proposes that the mind works best when surrounded by distraction, that it focuses in the act of withdrawing from surrounding bustle rather than in being isolated from it.

Above: Soren Kierkegaard caricature, Corsaren satirical journal, 26 August 1846

He revelled in the turbulent variety of city life.

This very moment there is an organ grinder down in the street playing and singing.

It is wonderful.

It is the accidental and insignificant things in life that are significant.

Although his extensive walks were perceived as signs of idleness, they were in fact the foundation of his prolific work.

The city strolls distracted him so that he could forget himself enough to think more productively, for his private thoughts are often convolutions of self-consciousness and despair.

In a journal passage from 1848, he described how on his way home, “overwhelmed with ideas ready to be written down and in a sense so weak that I could scarcely walk“, he would often encounter a poor man.

If he refused to speak with him, the ideas would flee.

And I would sink into the most dreadful spiritual tribulation at the idea that God could do to me what I had done to that man, but if I took the time to talk with the poor man things never went that way.”

Above: Copenhagen

Like Rousseau, Kierkegaard is a hybrid, a philosophical writer rather than a philosopher proper.

Their work is often descriptive, evocative, personal and poetically ambiguous.

It has room for delight and personality and something as specific as the sound of an organ grinder in a street or rabbits on the island of Saint Pierre on the Lake of Bienne where Rousseau lived on the estate of Ermenonville.

Above: Château d’Ermenonville

Walking is a way of grounding one’s thoughts in a personal and embodied experience of the world that lends itself to writing.

Edmund Husserl described walking as the experience by which we understand our body in relationship to the world.

The body, he said, is our experience of what is always here.

The body in motion experiences the unity of all its parts as the continuous “here” that moves toward and through the various “theres“.

It is the body that moves but the world that changes, which is how one distinguishes the body from the world.

Above: German philosopher/mathematician Edmund Husserl (1859 – 1938)

Travel can be a way to experience this continuity of self amid the flux of the world and thus to begin to understand each and their relationship to each other.

Travel is about being utterly mobile, but the postmodern body is shuttled around by airplanes and hurtling cars, not even moving around by any apparent means muscular, mechanical, economic or ecological.

The body has become nothing more than a parcel in transit, a chess piece dropped on a square.

It does not move.

It is moved.

Walking returns the body to its original limits again, to something supple, sensitive and vulnerable.

Walking itself extends into the world.

The path is an extension of walking, the places set aside for walking are monuments to that pursuit.

Walking is a mode of making the world as well as being in it.

I find myself from time to time in the midst of psychological conflict with a wife who cannot comprehend that my search for personal happiness cannot revolve around being with her constantly, that I must be fulfilled in all the roles a man must do, besides husband.

A friend has confessed to me their struggle between the desires of the day and the longings for tomorrow.

Heidi was in turmoil having just ended a relationship and finding herself wondering why she was travelling and what would happen if she stopped.

From Dan Kieran’s The Idle Traveller – The Art of Slow Travel:

Slow travel rarely goes according to plan.

Everything you encounter in your life, whether you consider it to be real or imagined, ultimately resides in thoughts and concepts in your brain.

The “real” world is far larger and more complicated than the one we are aware of.

We are all planning for tomorrow at the expense of today, which stops us from living in the moment and having to accept the imperfect nature of things as they are.

By the time we get to tomorrow, our life experiences mean what we thought we wanted has changed.

Slow travel and you are rewarded with serendipitous delights.

We can control our own image of perfection and escape the tyranny of the real world not living up to what we want it to be, but we achieve this not by trying to conquer the world we live in, but by redesigning the focus of our lives internally.

This is achieved by travelling through a landscape, being passionately in love, not falling for the ambition of “tomorrow” and accepting the lifetime pursuit of expressing your own sense of creativity.

When to comes to travel, this falling out of control beyond the comprehension of your own imagination, this is the source of everything.

Man’s real home is not a house, but the Road.

Life itself is a journey to be walked on foot.

Bruce Chatwin

Above: Bruce Chatwin (1940 – 1989)

So, my advice to Heidi, my advice to my Eskişehir friend, my advice to myself, is clear.

Go for a walk.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / The Rough Guide to Vietnam / Dan Kieran, The Idle Traveller / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / “Recep Tayyip Erdogan: Women not equal to men“, The Guardian, 24 November 2014)

This song does not end here….

Eskişehir, Turkey, Sunday 8 May 2022

On Thursday 21 April 2022, I rode the bus from Eskişehir to Denizli.

Again.

The journey to Denizli is always the same:

Above: Downtown Denizli

Leave at 0800, ten minute break at Kutahya Station, ten minute break at Afyon, half an hour for lunch in Dazkiri, from the Denizli station I am met by the textile company driver and am driven to the hotel, where I remain until the following morning.

But Thursday 21 April was somehow different….

Above: Kutahya, Turkey

Above: Afyonkarahisar, Turkey

Above: Dazkiri, Turkey

Above: Bus parking, Denizli Bus Station

Above: Logo of Yavuzçehre Tekstil, Denizli

Above: Park Dedeman Hotel, Denizli

My mama always said:

Life is like a box of chocolates.

You never know what you are gonna get.”

(Forrest Gump)

This was certainly the case this time.

Last evening, back at the F Spot, good music covered well by a local Eskişehir band I have come to love more and more each time I hear them play. (Good)

This morning I took out money from my account, balance lower than I like. (Bad)

From 0800 to 1400:

  • bus from (Point of departure: Ankara) Eskişehir to Denizli (Endstop: Bodrun)

Above: Eskişehir Bus Station

  • bus staff and station staff in Eskişehir now recognize me (Good)

Above: Inside Eskişehir Bus Station

  • had two seats to myself (Good)

Above: Interior of bus to Denizli

  • made a new friend (Emre) resident in Eskişehir, family in Aydin (next stop after Denizli) (Good)

Above: Aydin Bus Terminal

  • bus made request stop in Dinar (Bad)

Above: Dinar Bus Terminal

  • booked for two nights in Denizli rather than the usual one (Good)

Above: Denizli from roost view

  • with prospect of finally exploring Denizli on Saturday (national holiday – school closed)(Good).

Above: Events at schools take place across Turkey on Children’s Day.

National Sovereignty and Children’s Day (Ulusal Egemenlik ve Çocuk Bayramı) is a public holiday in Turkey commemorating the foundation of the Grand National Assembly of Turkey on 23 April 1920.

23 April is the day that the Grand National Assembly of Turkey was founded in 1920.

Above: Seal of the Turkish Parliament

The national council denounced the government of the Ottoman Sultan Mehmet VI and announced a temporary constitution.

Above: The last Ottoman Sultan Mehmed VI (1861 – 1926)

During the War of Independence, the Grand National Assembly met in Ankara and laid down the foundations of a new, independent, secular and modern republic from the ashes of the Ottoman Empire.

Above: Images of the Turkish War of Independence (1919 – 1923)

Following the defeat of the Allied invasion forces on 9 September 1922 and the signing of the Treaty of Lausanne on 24 July 1923, the Turkish government started the task of establishing the institutions of a state.

Above: World War I – Allies (green) and Central Powers (orange)

Above: Borders of Turkey set by the Treaty of Lausanne

23 April was declared “National Sovereignty Day” on 2 May 1921.

Since 1927, the holiday has also been celebrated as a children’s day.

Above: 1958 Soviet stamp commemorating Children’s Day

Thus, Turkey became the first country to officially declare a children’s day a national holiday. 

In 1981, the holiday was officially named “National Sovereignty and Children’s Day“.

Above: National Soveriegnity and Children’s Day, Cumhuriyet (newspaper), 23 April 1938

Every year, the children in Turkey celebrate National Sovereignty and Children’s Day as a national holiday.

Above: Countries officially celebrating 23 April as National Sovereignty and Children’s Day – Turkey and North Cyprus

Similar to other April events, Children’s Day celebrations often take place outdoors. 

Schools participate in week-long ceremonies marked by performances in all fields in large stadiums watched by the entire nation.

Students decorate their classrooms with flags, balloons and handmade ornaments.

Above: National Sovereignty and Children’s Day, Istanbul, 23 April 2022

Anitbakir is visited by children and politicians every year.

Above: Anitbakir, Ankara, Turkey

(Anıtkabir is the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the leader of the Turkish War of Independence and the founder and the first President of the Republic of Turkey.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881 – 1938)

It is located in Ankara.

Above: Antibakir

The site is also the final resting place of Ismet Inönü, the second President of Turkey, who was interred there after he died in 1973.

His tomb faces the Atatürk Mausoleum, on the opposite side of the Ceremonial Ground.)

Above: Ismet Inönü (1884 – 1973)

Among the activities on this day, the children send their representatives to replace state officials and high ranking civil servants in their offices.

The President, cabinet ministers, provincial governors, and mayors all turn over their positions to children’s representatives in a purely ceremonial exercise.

On this day, children also replace the parliamentarians in the Grand National Assembly and hold a ceremonial special session to discuss matters concerning children’s issues.

Above: National Sovereignty and Children’s Day, Anitbakir

After UNESCO proclaimed 1979 as the International Year of the Child, the Turkish Radio and Television Corporation (TRT) organized the first TRT International April 23 Children’s Festival. 

Five countries participated in this first holiday.

Over the years, this number grew steadily, resulting in children from about 50 countries coming to Turkey in an official ceremony every year to participate in the festival.

During the time, children stay with Turkish families and interact with Turkish children and learn about each other’s countries and cultures.

Foreign children groups also participate in the ceremonial session of the Grand National Assembly.

Above: Children’s Day, Istanbul, 23 April 2014

A few words about Dinar:

If legends are not lies, then this was the site of the musical duel between the sun god Apollo and Marsyas.

Such was the pride of a certain youth named Marsyas that he boasted of his skill in flute-playing and dared to proclaim himself the equal of Apollo.

Now Marsyas had not always been a musician, for he was by birth a shepherd – some even say a satyr – and had never seen a flute or heard it played until one day, as he sat tending his flock on the bank of a stream, he heard sounds of music coming from some spot nearby.

He was very curious to see who the musician might be, but he dared not move lest he startle the player and make the beautiful melody cease.

So he sat still and waited.

Presently there came floating down the stream a flute – something Marsyas had never seen before.

He hurriedly snatched it out of the water and no longer hearing the beautiful music, he guessed that it came from the strange thing he held in his hand.

He put the flute to his lips.

And, lo, the same sweet melody greeted his ears, for the flute was not a common thing such as any man might use – it was a beautiful instrument that belonged to no less a person than Minerva, the goddess of wisdom.

The goddess had hidden herself on the bank of the stream and had been trying her skill as a flute-player.

But chancing to look down into the water, she saw her puffed-out cheeks and distorted features and angrily threw the flute into the stream.

Thus it had come into Marsyas’ possession.

The shepherd, having found such a treasure, never let it leave his hands.

He neglected his work and left his flocks unguarded while he spent all his days in the delight of flute-playing.

It was not long before he believed himself to be the greatest musician in all the world.

Then it was only a step further to declare that even Apollo could not equal him in the sweetness of his playing.

The god of music allowed this boasting to go for some time unpunished.

But at last he grew angry at the presumption of the shepherd boy and summoned Marsyas to a contest in which the Nine Muses were to be judges.

Nothing daunted, Marsyas accepted the challenge.

On the morning when the contest took place, a great silence fell over all the Earth, as if every living thing had stopped to listen.

The playing of Marsyas was wonderfully sweet and as the soft tones of his flute greeted the listeners’ ears they sat as if under a spell until the last sounds died away.

Then Apollo took up his golden lyre and when he struck the first chords the air was filled with music far sweeter than any melody that had fallen from the lips of Marsyas.

The judges, however, found it hard to give a verdict to either musician.

So a second time Marsyas began to play.

His music was so strangely wild and sweet that even Apollo listened in delight.

But, charmed as he was by the youth’s playing, the god of music had no intention of being outdone by a shepherd.

So when he took up his golden lyre again, he began to sing and added the wonder of his voice to the sweetness of his playing.

When the singing ended there was no longer any doubt to whom the victory belonged.

Marsyas was forced to admit his defeat.

Above: Statue of Apollo Belvedere, Vatican Museum, Vatican City

Above: Statue of Marsyas, National Museum of Antiquities, Dushanbe, Tajikistan

(Think “The Devil Went Down to Georgia“.)

As the price of failure was to be the terrible penalty of being flayed alive, the wretched Marsyas had to submit to this cruel death.

Apollo bound him to a tree and slew him with his own hands.

Marsyas lost both his hide and his life.

Above: Apollo and Marsyas, Veronese, National Gallery of Art, Washington DC, USA

The known history of Dinar dates back to 1200 BCE. 

Dinar is one of the oldest settlements in Anatolia.

Countless emperors, the god Apollo and King Midas played music competitions in very ancient times.

When the news of Marsyas’ dreadful fate spread abroad, people were careful for many years not to anger any of the deities by presuming to rival them.

But in time the memory of that tragic event faded away and the horror of it was forgotten.

In the halls of King Midas was the noise of great mirth and feasting.

The sound of music filled the spacious room where the King and his court sat at the banquet table.

Beside the King stood Pan, his favourite flute player, who was no other than the famous sylvan god of shepherds.

As the wine went round and the King grew boastful of his possessions, he exclaimed loudly that not even Apollo himself could produce such exquisite music as fell from the flute of Pan.

The guests, remembering the fate of Marsyas, grew pale and begged the King not to let his boast be heard.

But Midas laughed scornfully and, raising his drinking cup above his head, called upon Apollo to appear.

To the surprise and dismay of all, the god of music suddenly stood before them, beautiful as the dawn and glowing with divine wrath.

Though Pan himself was a deity, he had no desire to challenge Apollo and looked fearfully at the sun god’s angry frown.

But the King, drunk with pride, commanded Pan to play and bade the god of music surpass the playing if he could.

There was, of course, no question as to which was the better musician and the guests loudly proclaimed Apollo the victor.

But Midas at the beginning of the contest had demanded the right to decide on the merits of the players and he would not accept this verdict.

In his mad perversity and fondness for his favourite, Midas cried out that Pan was the better player and would therefore be awarded the prize.

Angered at this unfair decision, Apollo left the banquet hall, but not before he had assured Midas that the injustice would be punished.

These words came true in a most unexpected way, for when the King looked into his mirror, he found a pair of large fuzzy ass’ ears growing in the place of his natural own.

Horrified at his absurd appearance, Midas did not dare show himself to his people, but sent in haste for a barber and bade him make a wig large enough to cover the monstrous ears.

For many hours the barber was closeted with the King.

When the wig was finished, he was allowed to leave the palace, after having sworn to never reveal the King’s misfortune under pain of death…..

Above: Image of King Midas, Gordion Museum, Polati, Turkey

Above: In the American writer Nathaniel Hawthorne (1804 – 1864) version of the Midas myth, Midas’ daughter turns to a golden statue when he touches her.




 

During the Classical period, Dinar (Kelainai) was the most important city after Ephesus. 

Above: Ruins of the Celsus Library, Ephesus, Selçuk, Turkey

During the Persian period, the hunting garden Paradeisos, used by the Persian kings Xerxes and Cyrus and later Alexander the Great, was located in these lands. 

Above: Xerxes I of Persia (r. 485 – 465 BCE)

Above: Cyrus the Great (600 – 530 BCE) is said in the Bible to have liberated the Jews from the Babylonian Captivity (605 – 539 BCE) to resettle and rebuild Jerusalem, earning him an honored place in Judaism.

Above: Mosaic of Alexander the Great (356 – 323 BCE), Pompeii, Italy

A tomb belonging to the Persian period was excavated here.

Dinar was founded as a Hellenistic city and named after Persian Queen Mother Apama.

Many coins were minted in the late Hellenistic period with pictures showing the Maeander River or Marsyas playing the flute. 

A treasure consisting of thousands of these coins, which were buried right after they were minted and never used, was found here and brought to the Afyon Museum. 

Above: Afyonkarahisar Archaeological Museum

According to Strabo, Apameia, during the early Roman Empire, was the largest and most important shopping centre of the state after Ephesus. 

It was the center of an administrative district (conventus) administered by a Roman governor.

The city gained its importance from the intersection of the main roads from Ankara to Attaleia and from the East to Ephesus and became a commercial centre. 

Above: 18th century illustration of Strabo (64 BCE – 24 CE)

Today, in Dinar Suçikan, the source of the Marsyas River passes through Apameia and the place where Satyr Marsyas was first flayed and then hanged because, according to legend, he challenged the god Apollo by inviting him to a music competition. 

In addition, the Orgas, Obrimos and Therma rivers can also be seen on Apameia coins. 

There were many earthquakes in the city in ancient times. 

Among the ruins that can still be seen today, but only partially excavated, are the Hellenistic theatre on the slopes of Mercimek Hill, the stadium, a temple on the top of a hill next to the city, and a semi-circular structure right on the side of the road passing through Dinar. 

Above: Dinar, Turkey

It is thought that there was an influential Jewish community in the region, since some coins minted in the city in the 3rd century CE had pictures of Noah’s Ark.

Above: Noah’s Ark, Edward Hicks, 1846

Carrying traces of many Anatolian civilizations from the Cimmerians, Persians, Romans, Byzantines and Turks, Dinar has always been the capital of the region since ancient times. 

Dinar is the place where the first music competition in history was held. 

It is the city of tales and legends, in which gods and kings are mixed.

Above: Downtown Dinar

Dinar is a small town (pop: 25,000) at the southern edge of Afyonhisar Province, 106 km from the city of Afyon.

It feels more rural than urban and has limited amenities, particularly since the large earthquake of 1995 which compelled thousands to leave the town.

Above: Aftermath of the 1995 Dinar earthquake

Dinar is a crossroads between Hell and Purgatory, a mid-point in a journey from Ankara to Antalya.

Most motorists won’t stop but many trucks need to.

Today so did our Pamukkale (company name) bus today.

Above: Dinar Otogar (bus station)

The station WC is aromatic in the wrong sense of the word, foreign and forbidden to the Western sensibilities.

The station walkway between kiosk and WC is an artificial swimming pool, but it is unclear whether the brackish brown pool is the spawn of property damage beneath the floor or from the roof above.

Service is functionary at best, rudeness and brusqueness seem the style of business here.

On 11 June 2020, it was reported that Dinar Mayor Nihat Sarı went to the district bus station with Deputy Mayor Muharrem Öztürk and made on-site inspections before planned renovation works.

Mayor Nihat Sarı also consulted with the office operators at the bus station and made on-site inspections for the interior and exterior.

Sarı, in a statement after the examination: 

We examined the points that need to be renovated in the bus station of our district. 

We will make our bus station look worthy of our district by doing the necessary work.” 

Above: Dinar Mayor Nihat Sari

Signs of this project were not in evidence when I visited.

It is said that the town invisible (which the bus station presumedly is near) is said to possess a folk culture rich and righteous, that this town gave the world many well-known (in Turkey, at least) folk songs.

But if the town is to be judged by its bus station then Marsyas’ music is silent, his oboe lost, and the station is a cesspool shadow of civilisation in all its faded forgotten sheen.

Dinar is now a place where hope has been abandoned and where the music died.

Photos were not taken for Facebook, for pictures should capture joy.

Dinar’s joy, like the bus, has left the station.

Above: Zournas, for Turkish folk music

Dinar’s bus station reminds me of Turkey itself:

Half complete, half ruined, proud of its past, faltering towards its future.

Emre and I talked at length between Dazkiri and Denizli about world politics: US politics, Turkish politics, the Russian invasion of Ukraine, and on all matter of things.

Above: The walrus and the carpenter, Alice Through the Looking Glass

We spoke of America’s tendency to invade nations in the name of democracy, but leave only death and destruction in their wake.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

We spoke of the Turkish need to find another Atatürk, a strongman who will take on the responsibilities of nation building for those who don’t wish to do the job themselves and the cost of sacrificing freedom for stability.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the statesman

We try to grasp the thinking of Vladimir Putin and his determination to crush Ukraine despite the consequences and failure of being able to do so.

Above: Russian President Vladimir Putin

Inevitably, we speak of Erdoğan.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Recep Tayyip Erdoğan (born 26 February 1954) is a Turkish politician serving as the 12th and current President of Turkey since 2014.

Above: Flag of the President of Turkey

He previously served as Prime Minister of Turkey from 2003 to 2014 and as Mayor of Istanbul from 1994 to 1998.

Above: Former seal of the Prime MInister of Turkey – the position was dissolved in 2017

Above: Emblem of the City of Istanbul

Erdoğan founded the Justice and Development Party (AKP) in 2001, leading it to election victories in 2002, 2007 and 2011 general elections before being required to stand down upon his election as President in 2014.

He later returned to the AKP leadership in 2017 following the constitutional referendum that year.

Coming from an Islamist political background and self-describing as a conservative democrat, he has promoted socially conservative and populist policies during his administration.

Above: Muslim men reading the Quran

Following the 1994 local elections, Erdoğan was elected Mayor of Istanbul as the candidate of the Islamist Welfare Party (Refah).

Above: Logo of the Welfare Party (1983 – 1998)

He was later stripped of his position, banned from political office, and imprisoned for four months for inciting religious hatred, due to his recitation of a poem by Ziya Gökalp.

Above: Ziya Gökalp (1876 – 1924)

His recitation included verses translated as “The mosques are our barracks, the domes our helmets, the minarets our bayonets and the faithful our soldiers….“, which are not in the original version of the poem.

Erdoğan said the poem had been approved by the Education Ministry to be published in textbooks.

Under Article 312/2 of the Turkish Penal Code, his recitation was regarded as an incitement to violence and religious or racial hatred.

He was given a ten-month prison sentence of which he served four months, from 24 March 1999 to 27 July 1999.

Above: Pinarhisar Prison, where Erdoğan served 119 days of a ten-month sentence, March – July 1999

Due to his conviction, Erdoğan was forced to give up his mayoral position.

The conviction also stipulated a political ban, which prevented him from participating in parliamentary elections.

He had appealed for the sentence to be converted to a monetary fine, but it was reduced to 120 days instead.

Jail time proved to be the best image boost Erdoğan could have dreamed of.

In 1999, the future Turkish President joined Johnny Cash and Tupac Shakur – he released an album from prison.

Bu Şarkı Burada Bitmez (This song does not end here) is a 35-minute compilation of Erdoğan reading poetry over a soundtrack of lilting Turkish melodies.

Produced by Ulus Music, a label specializing in “introducing to the world the richness, colour and variety of Turkish music while making sure that the whole world can take advantage of our cultural preciousness“, the album remains widely available on CD and cassette on Turkish second-hand trading websites.

By the time the glamourous 43-year-old mayor of Istanbul broke with Refah and was sent to jail, he had already started an aggressive spin campaign to reinvent himself as Turkey’s #1 Islamist.

In the eleven months between his conviction and the start of his jail term, Erdoğan called his first major press conference.

As the court case against Erdoğan dragged on, Istanbul City Council turned its website into a protest page featuring messages of support and a link to the full text of his defence statement.

By the time his appeal failed and he was finally sent to prison in March 1999, he had built a reputation as a free speech crusader with a legion of loyal personal supporters.

Before he was jailed he was allowed to attend Friday prayers at the Fatih Mosque in Istanbul for a final time.

Huge crowds came to pray alongside of him and formed a convoy to accompany him to Pinarhisar Jail, northwest of Istanbul.

When he was released in July 1999, having served only 119 days of his ten-month sentence, thousands turned out again to greet him.

In 2017, this period of Erdoğan’s life was made into a film titled Reis (The Chief).

As has happened so many times over the decades, Refah reformed under a new name, the Felicity Party (Saadet Partisi), but the new guard led by Abdullah Gül did not join them.

Instead they split and formed a new grouping.

They started their public relations drive with a rally in Kayseri, Gül’s home city, and followed it up with a tour of Turkey.

Above: Kayseri, Turkey

And they had attracted a star – Erdoğan, recently released from prison and with a soaring reputation.

Gül had lobbied the European Parliament to oppose Erdoğan’s jail sentence and personally approached him to join his new party once he was released.

Above: Logo of the European Parliament

Gül, the soft-spoken technocrat had no issue with handing over the top position in the party he had founded to the most charismatic Islamist Turkey had ever produced.

The demand for Gül to approach Erdoğan came from within the party ranks.

Above: Mayor Erdoğan upon his release from prison

The new party became AK Partisi because Turkey needed a clean page.

Ak means pure.

Above: Logo of the Justice and Development Party

All the political establishments were tired and the society was not getting what it wanted, but the people in this party were clean and wise.

That is why we proposed AK Partisi.

Cevat Olçok, director of Arter, Turkey’s first political marketing agency

Above: Cevat Olçok

The AKP worked out who the Turkish people actually were and how they might win their votes.

In Turkey the entrenched system had ensured that power always lay in the hands of the secular elite.

They would vote one way and the religious masses would vote another and ultimately the army would decide how the country should be run.

Above: Flag of Turkey

Before politics happened in meetings.

Politicians were talking with people….

When TV started to show Parliament, people started to monitor their representatives.

In the village they were supporting someone and then seeing what they were doing in Parliament.

We were addressing their feelings.

We were being live broadcasted.

The first live broadcast started in the 1990s.

It was one of the contributions to Turkish democracy.

Before, political allegiance was just a tradition that was passed on.

Now it is more transparent….

People listened on TV.

They saw that we were addressing their feelings.

This is how everything was restructured.

Abdullah Gül

Above: The Grand National Assembly

Turkey’s economy was creaking by the time the AKP launched in 2001.

The currency was slipping into hyper-inflation and unemployment rocketing towards 10%.

All the existing parties were tarnished with corruption, incompetence, or both.

Soon, the AKP was the most talked-about party in Turkey.

Above: Flag of the AK Party

When it started, the goal was to make AK Partisi a brand in Turkey and the world.

This was said at the foundation.

AK Partisi: a world party.

The years have passed.

You see AK Partisi everywhere in Turkey.

Cevat Olçok

Above: AK Party poster – Erdoğan thanking the people for the election results

Erdoğan subsequently abandoned openly Islamist politics, establishing the moderate conservative AKP in 2001, which he went on to lead to a landslide victory in 2002, only 15 months after the Party had been launched.

With Erdoğan still technically prohibited from holding office, the AKP’s co-founder, Abdullah Gül, instead became Prime Minister, and later annulled Erdoğan’s political ban.

Above: Abdullah Gül

After winning a by-election in Siirt in 2003, Erdoğan replaced Gül as Prime Minister, with Gül instead becoming the AKP’s candidate for the presidency.

Erdoğan led the AKP to two more election victories in 2007 and 2011.

Above: Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Reforms made in the early years of Erdoğan’s tenure as Prime Minister granted Turkey the start of European Union (EU) membership negotiations.

Above: The EU (green) and Turkey (orange)

Furthermore, Turkey experienced an economic recovery from the economic crisis of 2001 and saw investments in infrastructure including roads, airports and a high-speed train network.

Above: Istanbul Airport

Above: Eskişehir railway station

(Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, Turkey relied heavily on foreign investment for economic growth, with trade above 40% of Gross National Product (GNP).

The Turkish government and banking systems lacked the financial means to support meaningful economic growth.

The government was already running enormous budget deficits, and one of the ways it managed to sustain these was by selling huge quantities of high-interest bonds to Turkish banks.

Continuing inflation (likely a result of the enormous flow of foreign capital into Turkey) meant that the government could avoid defaulting on the bonds in the short term.

As a consequence, Turkish banks came to rely on these high yield bonds as a primary investment.

Above: Historical building of Ziraat Bank, currently serving as Turkey’s first banking museum, Ankara

The International Monetary Fund (IMF) team in 1996 warned of an impending financial crisis because of the deficit, which soon came into being.

Turkey’s unstable political landscape led many foreign investors to divest from the country.

As foreign investors observed the political turmoil and the government’s attempts to eliminate the budget deficit, they withdrew $70 billion worth of capital from the country in a matter of months.

This left a vacuum of capital that Turkish banks were unable to alleviate because the government was no longer able to pay off its bonds.

With no capital to speak of, the Turkish economy slowed dramatically.

In November 2000, the IMF provided Turkey with $11.4 billion in loans and Turkey sold many of its state-owned industries in an effort to balance the budget.

By 2000 there was massive unemployment, a lack of medicine, tight credit, slow production to fight inflation and increasing taxes.

Stabilisation efforts had yet to produce any meaningful effects, and the IMF loan was widely seen as insufficient.

Above: Flag of Turkey

On 19 February 2001, Prime Minister Ecevit emerged from a meeting with President Sezer saying:

This is a serious crisis.”

Above: Bülent Ecevit (1925 – 2006)

Above: Ahmet Necdet Sezer

This underscored financial and political instability and led to further panic in the markets.

Stocks plummeted and the interest rate reached 3,000%.

Large quantities of Turkish lira were exchanged for US dollars or euros, causing the Turkish Central Bank to lose $5 billion of its reserves.

Above: Levent business district, Istanbul

The crash triggered even more economic turmoil.

In the first eight months of 2001, 14,875 jobs were lost, the dollar rose to 1,500,000 liras, and income inequality had risen from its already high level.)

Erdoğan also won two successful constitutional referendums in 2007 and 2010.

However, his government remained controversial for its close links with Fethullah Gülen and his Gülen movement (since designated as a terrorist organisation by the Turkish state) with whom the AKP was accused of orchestrating purges against secular bureaucrats and military officers through the Balyoz (Operation Sledgehammer: an alleged coup) and Ergenekon (a suspected secularist clandestine organization accused of plotting against the Turkish government) trials.

Several opposition politicians, journalists and military officers also went on trial for allegedly being part of Ergenekon.

Despite both domestic and international calls for these irregularities to be addressed in order to guarantee a fair trial, Erdoğan instead praised his government for bringing the coup plots to light.

When Gülen publicly withdrew support and openly attacked Erdoğan in late 2013, several imprisoned military officers and journalists were released, with the government admitting that the judicial proceedings were unfair.

Erdoğan’s previous close relations with Fethullah Gülen and his Cemaat Movement allowed his government to maintain a degree of influence within the judiciary through Gülen’s supporters in high judicial and bureaucratic offices.

Above: Fethullah Gülen

In 2009, Turkish sculptor Mehmet Aksoy created the Statue of Humanity in Kars to promote reconciliation between Turkey and Armenia.

Above: Flag of Armenia

When visiting the city in 2011, Erdoğan deemed the statue a “freak“, and months later it was demolished.

Above: Monument to Humanity (2009 – 2011), Kars

Aksoy sued Erdoğan for “moral indemnities“, although his lawyer said that his statement was a critique rather than an insult.

In March 2015, a judge ordered Erdoğan to pay 10,000 liras.

Above: Mehmet Aksoy

In late 2012, Erdoğan’s government began peace negotiations with the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK) to end the Kurdish – Turkish conflict (1978 – ongoing).

Above: Flag of the PKK

The ceasefire broke down in 2015, leading to a renewed escalation in conflict.

Above: General view of the PKK conflict (German language map)

Erdoğan’s foreign policy has been described as Neo-Ottoman and has led to the Turkish involvement in the Syrian Civil War, with its focus on preventing the Syrian Democratic Forces from gaining ground on the Syria – Turkey border during the Syrian Civil War.

Above: Map of Turkish Prime Minister Erdoğan’s foreign trips – Countries visited (blue) / Turkey (orange)

Above: Map of the Syrian Civil War, 2021 – Syrian Arab Republic (pink) / Syrian Arab Republic & Rojava (orange) / Rojava (yellow) / Syrian Interim Government & Turkish occupation (light green) / Syrian Salvation Government (white) / Revolutionary Commando Army & US occupation (blue) / Opposition groups in conciliation (purple) / Islamic State (grey)

Above: Flag of the Syrian Democratic Forces

(Neo-Ottomanism (Yeni Osmanlıcılık, Neo-Osmanlıcılık) is an imperialist Turkish political ideology that, in its broadest sense, advocates to honor Ottoman past and promotes greater political engagement of the Republic of Turkey within regions formerly under the rule of the Ottoman Empire, the predecessor state that covered the territory of modern Turkey among others.

Above: Coat of arms of the Ottoman Empire (1299 – 1922)

The term has been associated with Recep Tayyip Erdoğan’s irredentist (political or popular movements whose members claim and seek to occupy (usually on behalf of their nation) territory they consider “lost” (or “unredeemed“) to their nation, based on history or legend), interventionist and expansionist foreign policy in the eastern Mediterranean and neighbouring Cyprus, Greece, Iraq, Syria, as well as in Africa, including Libya, and Nagorno-Karabakh.

Above: Flag of Cyprus

Above: Flag of Greece

Above: Flag of Iraq

Above: Flag of Syria

Above: Flag of Libya

However, the term has been rejected by members of the Erdoğan government, such as the former Foreign Minister Ahmet Davutoğlu and Parliamentary Speaker Mustafa Şentop.)

Above: Ahmet Davutoğlu

Above: Mustafa Şentop

In the more recent years of Erdoğan’s rule, Turkey has experienced democratic backsliding and corruption.

Above: Countries democratizing (blue) and autocratizing (red) (2010 – 2020), V-Dem Institute, 2021

Starting with the anti-government protests in 2013, his government imposed growing censorship on the press and social media, temporarily restricting access to sites such as YouTube, Twitter and Wikipedia.

This stalled negotiations related to Turkey’s EU membership.

Above: Gezi Park protests, Istanbul, 7 June 2013

(A wave of demonstrations and civil unrest in Turkey began on 28 May 2013, initially to contest the urban development plan for Istanbul’s Taksim Gezi Park.

The protests were sparked by outrage at the violent eviction of a sit-in at the park protesting the plan. 

Subsequently, supporting protests and strikes took place across Turkey, protesting against a wide range of concerns at the core of which were issues of freedom of the press, of expression and of assembly, as well as the alleged political Islamist government’s erosion of Turkey’s secularism.

With no centralised leadership beyond the small assembly that organised the original environmental protest, the protests have been compared to the Occupy movement and the May 1968 events. 

Social media played a key part in the protests, not least because much of the Turkish media downplayed the protests, particularly in the early stages.

Three and a half million people (out of Turkey’s population of 80 million) are estimated to have taken an active part in almost 5,000 demonstrations across Turkey connected with the original Gezi Park protest.

Above: Gezi Park protesters

Twenty-two people were killed and more than 8,000 were injured, many critically.

The sit-in at Taksim Gezi Park was restored after police withdrew from Taksim Square on 1 June, and developed into a protest camp, with thousands of protesters in tents, organising a library, medical centre, food distribution and their own media.

After the Gezi Park camp was cleared by riot police on 15 June, protesters began to meet in other parks all around Turkey and organised public forums to discuss ways forward for the protests.

Above: Gezi Park protesters

Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan dismissed the protesters as “a few looters” on 2 June.

Police suppressed the protests with tear gas and water cannons.

In addition to the 11 deaths and over 8,000 injuries, more than 3,000 arrests were made. 

Police brutality and the overall absence of government dialogue with the protesters was criticized by some foreign governments and international organisations.

The range of the protesters was described as being broad, encompassing both right and left-wing individuals.

Their complaints ranged from the original local environmental concerns to such issues as the authoritarianism of Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, curbs on alcohol, a recent row about kissing in public, and the war in Syria.

Protesters called themselves çapulcu (looters), reappropriating Erdoğan’s insult for them and coined the derivative “chapulling” (“fighting for your rights“).

Many users on Twitter also changed their screenname and used çapulcu instead. 

According to various analysts, the protests were the most challenging events for Erdoğan’s ten-year term and the most significant nationwide disquiet in decades.)

Above: Gezi Park protesters

Erdoğan has been criticised for his politicisation of the media, especially after the 2013 protests.

The opposition Republican People’s Party (CHP) alleged that over 1,863 journalists lost their jobs due to their anti-government views in 12 years of AKP rule.

Above: Logo of the Cumhuriyet Halk Partisi

Opposition politicians have also alleged that intimidation in the media is due to the government’s attempt to restructure the ownership of private media corporations.

Journalists from the Cihan News Agency (1994 – 2016) and the Gülenist Zaman newspaper (1986 – 2016) were repeatedly barred from attending government press conferences or asking questions.

Several opposition journalists, such as Soner Yalçin, were controversially arrested as part of the Ergenekon trials and Sledgehammer coup investigation (see below). 

Above: Soner Yalçin

Veli Ağbaba, a CHP politician, has called the AKP the ‘biggest media boss in Turkey.’

Above: Veli Ağbaba

Notable cases of media censorship occurred during the 2013 anti-government protests, when the mainstream media did not broadcast any news regarding the demonstrations for three days after they began.

The lack of media coverage was symbolised by CNN International covering the protests while CNN Türk broadcast a documentary about penguins at the same time.

The Radio and Television Supreme Council (RTÜK) controversially issued a fine to pro-opposition news channels, including Halk TV and Ulusal Kanal, for their coverage of the protests, accusing them of broadcasting footage that could be morally, physically and mentally destabilising to children.

A US$100 billion corruption scandal in 2013 led to the arrests of Erdoğan’s close allies, and incriminated Erdoğan.

The 2013 corruption scandal in Turkey or 17-25 December Corruption and Bribery Operation was a criminal investigation that involved several key people in the Turkish government.

All of the 52 people detained on 17 December were connected in various ways with the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP).

Prosecutors accused 14 people – including Suleyman Aslan, the director of state-owned Halk Bank, Iranian businessman Reza Zarrab, and several family members of cabinet ministers – of bribery, corruption, fraud, money laundering and gold smuggling.

At the heart of the scandal was an alleged “gas for gold” scheme with Iran involving Aslan, who had US$4.5 million in cash stored in shoeboxes in his home, and Zarrab, who was involved in about US$9.6 billion of gold trading in 2012.

Both men were arrested.

Above: Suleyman Aslan

Above: Reza Zarrab

The scheme started after Turkish government officials found a loophole in the US sanctions against Iran that allowed them to access Iranian oil and gas.

The Turks exported some US$13 billion of gold to Iran directly, or through the United Arab Emirates, between March 2012 and July 2013.

Above: Flag of the United Arab Emirates

In return, the Turks received Iranian natural gas and oil.

Above: Flag of Iran

The transactions were carried out through the Turkish state-owned bank, Halk Bank.

In January 2013, the Obama administration decided to close this loophole but instead of immediately charging Halk Bank, the US government allowed its gold trading activities to continue until July 2013, because Turkey was an important ally regarding the American/led intervention in the Syrian Civil War and the US had been working on a nuclear deal with Iran.

Above: Barack Obama

Prime Minister Erdoğan was on a tour of Pakistan when the scandal broke, which analysts believe changed the response of the AKP, or influenced those with the tapes to leak them at a time when Erdoğan was visiting an ally.

Above: Flag of Pakistan

After 11 years as the head of government, Prime Minister Erdoğan decided to run for President in 2014.

At the time, the presidency was a somewhat ceremonial function.

Erdoğan was criticised for not responding to the accusations of media intimidation, and caused international outrage after telling a female journalist (Amberin Zaman of The Economist) to know her place and calling her a ‘shameless militant‘ during his 2014 presidential election campaign.

Above: Amberin Zaman

 

While the 2014 presidential election was not subject to substantial electoral fraud, Erdoğan was again criticized for receiving disproportionate media attention in comparison to his rivals.

The British newspaper The Times commented that between 2 and 4 July, the state-owned media channel TRT gave 204 minutes of coverage to Erdoğan’s campaign and less than a total of 3 minutes to both his rivals.

Following the 2014 elections, Erdoğan became the first popularly elected President of Turkey.

The souring in relations with Gülen continued, as the government proceeded to purge his supporters from judicial, bureaucratic and military positions.

When Gülen withdrew support from the AKP government in late 2013, the aforementioned government corruption scandal broke out, leading to the arrest of several family members of cabinet ministers.

Erdoğan accused Gülen of co-ordinating a “parallel state” within the judiciary in an attempt to topple him from power.

Above: Fethullah Gülen

He then removed or reassigned several judicial officials in an attempt to remove Gülen’s supporters from office.

Erdoğan’s ‘purge‘ was widely questioned and criticised by the European Union. 

In early 2014, a new law was passed by Parliament giving the government greater control over the judiciary, which sparked public protest throughout the country.

International organisations perceived the law to be a danger to the separation of powers.

Several judicial officials removed from their posts said that they had been removed due to their secularist credentials.

The political opposition accused Erdoğan of not only attempting to remove Gülen supporters, but supporters of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk’s principles as well, in order to pave the way for increased politicisation of the judiciary.

Several family members of Erdoğan’s ministers who had been arrested as a result of the 2013 corruption scandal were released, and a judicial order to question Erdoğan’s son Bilal Erdoğan was annulled.

Above: Bilal Erdoğan

Controversy erupted when it emerged that many of the newly appointed judicial officials were actually AKP supporters. 

İslam Çiçek, a judge who ejected the cases of five ministers’ relatives accused of corruption, was accused of being an AKP supporter and an official investigation was launched into his political affiliations.

Above: İslam Çiçek

On 1 September 2014, the courts dissolved the cases of 96 suspects, which included Bilal Erdoğan.

During a televised press conference he was asked if he believed a presidential system was possible in a unitary state (a state governed as a single entity in which the central government is the supreme authority).

Erdoğan affirmed this and cited Nazi Germany (among other examples) as a case where such a combination existed.

However, the Turkish president’s office said that Erdoğan was not advocating a Hitler-style government when he called for a state system with a strong executive, and added that the Turkish president had declared the “Holocaust, anti-semitism and Islamophobia” as crimes against humanity and that it was out of the question for him to cite Hitler’s Germany as a good example.

Above: Flag of Nazi Germany (1935 – 1945)

Erdoğan also tightened controls over the Internet, signing into law a bill which allows the government to block websites without prior court order on 12 September 2014.

His government blocked Twitter and YouTube in late March 2014 following the release of a recording of a conversation between him and his son Bilal, where Erdoğan allegedly warned his family to ‘nullify‘ all cash reserves at their home amid the 2013 corruption scandal.

In 2015, 74 US senators sent a letter to US Secretary of State John Kerry to state their concern over what they saw as deviations from the basic principles of democracy in Turkey and oppressions of Erdoğan over media.

Above: John Kerry

In May 2016, former Miss Turkey model Merve Büyüksaraç was sentenced to more than a year in prison for allegedly insulting the President.

Above: Merve Büyüksaraç

In a 2016 news story, Bloomberg reported:

More than 2,000 cases have been opened against journalists, cartoonists, teachers, a former Miss Turkey, and even schoolchildren in the past two years.”

A failed military coup d’état attempt in July 2016 resulted in further purges and a temporary state of emergency.

The government claimed that the coup leaders were linked to Gülen, but he has denied any role in it.

(More on this below.)

Above: 15 July Martyrs Monument, Presidential Complex, Ankara

In November 2016, the Turkish government blocked access to social media in all of Turkey as well as sought to completely block Internet access for the citizens in the southeast of the country.

Erdoğan’s rule has been marked with increasing authoritarianism, expansionism, censorship and banning of parties or dissent.

Above: Turkish journalists protesting imprisonment of their colleagues on Human Rights Day, 10 December 2016

The democratic backsliding of the country has been accompanied by increasing macroeconomic imbalances, culminating in a currency crisis in 2018.

The Turkish lira lost about a third of its value against the US dollar in 2018, and this shock led to a sharp increase in inflation, slowdown in economic activity, and rising unemployment.

The government took some rather desperate measures to curb rise in prices, especially of food items, including threats to supermarket chains and wholesalers with fines.

Such measures had very limited effect, however, and inflation remains stubbornly high.

Erdoğan and his allies have frequently resorted to both blame shifting and agenda setting during this period.

Erdoğan ramped up his criticism of the Central Bank, blaming the Bank’s policies for “helping to stoke rising prices”.

(The governor is appointed for a term of four years by a decree of the President of Turkey.

The governor may be reappointed upon the expiration of this term.

Since Erdogan assumed the office of the President in 2014, there have been five Governors of the Central Bank: Erdem Başçı, Murat Çetinkaya (the first Central Bank Governor to be fired in Turkey since the 1981 military coup), Murat Uysal (dismissed on 7 November 2020), Naci Ağbal (sacked on 20 March 2021) and Şahap Kavcıoğlu.

Kavcıoğlu supported Erdoğan’s desires for lower interest rates and cut them from 19% to 15%.

The lower interest of 15%, was met with a fall of the Turkish lira.)

Above: Logo of the Central Bank of the Republic of Turkey

After a political spat with the US in summer 2018, he turned his target of blame to foreign actors.

He blamed “an economic attack launched by the Trump administration” for the lira’s slide and argued that “the West tried to corner Turkey by applying pressure on the currency, interest rates, and inflation”.

Above: Donald Trump and Erdoğan

It is hard to pin down the moment when Erdoğan’s ambitions swelled beyond his borders.

In the first years of his era as he battled against the Kemalists and the Army, he was too weak at home to contemplate intervention overseas.

Above: Recip Tayyip Erdoğan

In the midst of World War I, the French and the British established the borders of the Middle Eastern countries grouping many ethnic groups in the same territory.

Above: Map of Sykes-Picot Agreement showing Eastern Turkey in Asia, Syria and Western Persia, and areas of control and influence agreed between the British and the French. Signed by British diplomat Mark Sykes and French diplomat François Georges-Picot, 8 May 1916

One of them, the Muslim sect of the Alawites has been in command of Syria since the 1970s despite representing only 12% of the population.

Under the ideology of keeping the country out of the hand of extremists the Assads heavily favoured their Alawite sect and crushed anyone who challenged them.

Above: Coat of arms of Syria

After enduring decades of authoritarian governments, people of several Middle Eastern countries raised their voices in protest and ousted their leaders in what has been called the Arab Spring.

Above: Images of the Arab Spring – Clockwise from top left: the 2011 Egyptian revolution, the 2011 Tunisian revolution, the 2011 Yemeni uprising, the 2011 Syrian uprising

In Egypt and Tunisia the uprisings were quick and decisive.

Above: Flag of Egypt

Above: Flag of Tunisia

In Libya the protests led to a short civil war that ended with the death of Muammar Gaddafi.

Above: Flag of Libya

Above: Muammar al-Gaddafi (1942 – 2011)

Syria is another story.

Above: Map of Syria

Bashar al-Assad, President of Syria, inherited the nation from his father, Hafez, in 2000.

Above: Syrian President Bashar al-Assad

Hafez ruled for 30 years during which he modernized the country, but at the cost of a brutal repression.

Bashar came into power after his father’s death in 2000 reluctantly, for he had not been brought up to expect it.

Above: Hafez al-Assad (1930 – 2000)

It had been Bashar’s older brother, Bassel, who was groomed for the job while Bashar, the shy second son, planned to lead a life out of the spotlight.

Bashar studied hard, largely shunned the luxurious trappings of his position, and went to London to enjoy a life of relative obscurity as a trainee eye doctor.

Above: Western Eye Hospital, London, England

But in 1994 Bassel was killed in a car crash.

Above: Bassel al-Assad (1962 – 1994)

Bashar, now the heir apparent, was forced to abandon his medical studies and returned to Damascus to begin his political apprenticeship.

Above: Images of Damascus, Syria

When Hafez died six years later in June 2000, Bashar stood uncontested for the presidency:

Syrians could vote yes or no for Bashar, but they were not offered any alternatiove.

And with the mukhbarat – the feared Syrian secret police – eyeing voters as they dropped their slips into the ballot box, few were inclined to say no.

Bashar was sworn in with a 97% mandate.

Soon after Bashar married his beautiful and stylish British-raised fiancée, Asma.

With his educated wife by his side, Bashar seemed to be in tune with what Syria’s upcoming generation wanted.

Above: First Lady of Syria Asma al-Assad

He was technologically savvy.

One of the first things he did when he came to power was allow access to the Internet – albeit heavily restricted and monitored.

Bashar was a nerd who seemed to eschew the ostentatious trappings of wealth that had so beguiled the Middle East’s other dictators.

Bashar took pride in the fact that he drove himself and his family around the streets of the capital, Damascus, in an unarmoured car and without bodyguards.

Above: Typical Damascene street

In Bashar’s early years as President, Syrians dared to believe that their country might be changing.

He gave lip service to allowing other political parties into Parliament, though they would have never been given a chance to form a government.

He permitted civil societies and discussion groups to open in the public sphere.

Many political prisoners were released, Damascus got a stock exchange, and Syrians were at last given access to mobile phones.

The first two years of Bashar’s tenure came to be known as the Damascus Spring.

Artists, intellectuals, campaigners and ordinary citizens breathed a collective sigh of relief as their regime’s iron grip on the country seemed to relax.

It didn’t last.

Above: Barada River, Damascus

In 2002 the Damascus Spring screeched to a devastating halt.

The thinkers and dissidents who had taken advantage of the past two years’ freedom were rounded up and thrown in prison.

The fledging civil society was cut down.

Syrians realized that their new communication tools simply gave the regime more options for spying on them.

Fear and loathing swelled until the spring of 2011 when the nascent wave of Arab revolutions washed into Syria and Bashar al-Assad’s people rose up against him.

His reaction was quick and brutal:

At first Assad’s stance was conciliatory, but the repression continued, which, in turn, multiplied protests around the country.

Above: Demonstration in Homs, Syria against Al Assad regime in the Syrian Uprising, 17 April 2011

The Army answered by opening fire against the demonstrators in April 2011.

Hundreds died and thousands more were arrested.

Any chance of a peaceful resolution died with the demonstrators.

Within six months, the protests had morphed into all-out civil war.

Small groups of armed rebels started to appear almost immediately.

Some Syrian troops even defected from the Army to join the rebels.

They call themselves the Free Syrian Army.

The uprising became a civil war.

Above: Coat of arms of the Free Syrian Army

Since then the government and the rebels have been mired in a war that claimed the lives of 60,000 Syrians in the first 18 months of conflict.

Since the outset of the Syrian Civil War it has been clear that it would last a long time, mainly because the rebel groups did not have sufficient weapons, numbers or unifying ideologies.

The only thing they have in common is a deep hate for Assad.

As the weeks and months passed, the rebels increased in numbers and weapons, but not enough to topple Assad who was now receiving help from Iran.

Also many of the rebel groups abused, killed and displaced civilians in the name of the revolution, leaving many to wonder if the cure is worse than the disease.

Experts do believe that Assad will fall eventually.

The question is how long will it take.

Whoever inherits Syria will get a country in ruins and an economy in shambles, a deeply divided population and the challenge to finally fulfill the promises of the Arab Spring.

Above: Images of the Syrian Civil War (2011 – ongoing)

Syria’s civil war is a mess.

After years, the conflict is divided between four sides, each side with foreign backers.

And those foreign backers cannot even agree with one another on who they are fighting for and who they are fighting against.

After the uprising became a civil war, extremists from around the region and the world started travelling to Syria to join the rebels.

Assad actually encouraged this by releasing jihadist prisoners to tinge the rebellion and make it harder for foreign backers to support them.

Above: Bashar al-Assad

As the bloodshed escalated in northwestern Syria in late 2011, Turkey opened its borders to fleeing civilians and provided a safe fallback position for both the political and armed opposition.

Turkey was now building its Syria policy on the reckoning that Assad could be toppled quickly as Mubarak, Ben Ali and Gaddafi had been in Egypt, Tunisia and Libya, and so Turkey openly supported Assad’s opponents.

Above: Hosni Mubarak (1928 – 2020)

Above: Zine El Abidine Ben Ali (1936 – 2019)

In January 2012, al-Qaeda formed a new branch in Syria, Jabhat al-Nusra.

Above: Flag of the Al-Nusra Front

After the rebels stormed into Aleppo in the summer of 2012 – aided by the sanctuary and training they received in Turkey and weapons supplies coming across the border – the uprising turned into a bloody war of attrition.

Above: Images of Aleppo, Syria

Also around that time, Syrian Kurdish groups, who have long sought autonomy, took up arms and informally seceded from Assad’s rule in the north.

That summer is when the Syrian Civil War became a proxy war.

Above: Raqqa destroyed

Iran, Assad’s most important ally, intervened on his behalf.

By the end of 2012, Iran was sending daily cargo flights and had hundreds of officers on the ground.

At the same time, the oil-rich Arab states on the Persian Gulf began sending money and weapons to the rebels, via Turkey, mainly to counter Iran’s influence.

Above: Map of the Persian Gulf

Iran stepped up its influence in turn in mid-2012 when Hezbollah (a Lebanese militia backed by Iran) invaded Syria to fight alongside Assad.

Above: Logo of the Hezbollah

In turn the Gulf States responded, with Saudi Arabia really stepping up this time, to send more money and weapons to the rebels, this time through Jordan who also opposes Assad.

The front lines barely moved for three years while Assad used his air power to punish the civilian population with endless airstrikes.

Above: Scenes of the Syrian Civil War

By 2013, the Middle East was divided between mostly Sunni powers generally supporting the rebels and Shias generally supporting Assad.

Above: Map of countries surrounding Syria (red) with military involvement: (blue) Countries that support the Syrian government, (green) Countries that support Syrian rebels, (yellow) Countries that are divided in their support

That April, the Obama administration, horrified by Assad’s atrocities and the mounting death toll, signed a secret order, authorizing the CIA to train and equip Syrian rebels.

But the program stalled.

At the same time, the US quietly urged the Arab Gulf States to stop funding extremists, but their requests basically were ignored.

On 21 August 2013, the Assad regime used chemical weapons in the Ghouta region of the Damascus countryside – more than 1,700 civilians were killed – provoking condemnation from around the world.

Obama responded:

Men, women and children lying in rows, killed by poison gas….

It is in the national security interests of the United States to respond to the Assad regime’s use of chemical weapons through a targeted military strike.

Above: Victims of the Ghouta massacre

Three days later, Russia proposed that Syria surrender control over its chemical weapons to the international community for its eventual dismantling to avoid an American military strike.

The US ended up backing down, but the whole thing established Syria as a great powers dispute with Russia backing Assad and the US opposing him.

Weeks later, the first American CIA training and arms reached Syrian rebels.

The United States was now a participant in the War.

Then, Syria got even darker.

In February 2014, something happened that transformed the War.

An al-Qaeda affiliate, based mostly in Iraq, broke away from the group over internal disagreements.

Above: Flag of Al-Qaeda

The group called itself the Islamic State of Iraq and Syria (ISIS), becoming al-Qaeda’s enemy.

ISIS mostly fought not Assad, but other rebel groups and Kurds, carving out a mini-state it called its Caliphate.

That summer of 2014, ISIS marched across Iraq, seizing territory and galvanizing the world against it.

Above: Flag of the Islamic State

Above: Islamic State territory (in grey) at its greatest extent, June 2015

The Pentagon launched its own program to train Syrian rebels, but would only train those who would fight ISIS, not Assad.

The program fizzled, showing that America now opposed ISIS more than Assad while there was also no like-minded proxy forces on the ground in Syria.

Above: The Pentagon, HQ of the US Department of Defense, Arlington, Virginia

In August 2014, Turkey started bombing Kurdish groups in Iraq and Turkey even as these Kurdish groups were fighting ISIS in Syria.

But Turkey wouldn’t bomb ISIS.

This is one of the big problems in this conflict.

The US saw ISIS as its main enemy, but America’s allies like Turkey and a lot of other Middle Eastern states had other priorities.

This makes for a lot of unclear and confusing alliances.

In September 2014, one year after the US almost bombed Assad’s forces, it began bombing ISIS.

Obama:

We are moving ahead with our campaign of airstrikes against these terrorists and we are prepared to take action against ISIS in Syria as well.

That same month, Russia intervened on behalf of Assad, sending a few dozen military aircraft to a long-held Russian base in the country.

Russia said it was there to bomb ISIS, but only ended up bombing anti-Assad rebels, including some backed by the United States.

Above: Assad and Putin

In terms of changing the political agenda, Erdoğan leveraged Turkey’s involvement in several large-scale military operations in northern Iraq and Syria, the latest launched in early 2018.

This context presented Erdoğan with the opportunity to highlight the importance of security challenges to voters at the expense of the economy.

This strategy was especially appealing, as Turkish voters saw Erdoğan’s Justice and Development Party (AKP) as more competent than other parties in addressing security threats.

Above: Erdoğan

Amid allegations of Turkish collaboration with the Islamic State (IS), the 2014 Kobani protests broke out near the Syrian border city of Kobani, in protest against the government’s perceived facilitation of the Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant (ISIL) during the Siege of Kobani. 

42 protestors were killed during a brutal police crackdown. 

Above: Siege of Kobani

(The siege of Kobanî was launched by the Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant (ISIL) on 13 September 2014, in order to capture the Kobani Canton and its main city of Kobanî (also known as Kobanê or Ayn al-Arab) in northern Syria, in the de facto autonomous region of Rojava.

By 2 October 2014, the Islamic State succeeded in capturing 350 Kurdish villages and towns in the vicinity of Kobanê, generating a wave of some 300,000 Kurdish refugees, who fled across the border into Turkey’s Sanliurfa Province.

Above: Coalition airstrike in Kobanî on Islamic State position, October 2014

By January 2015, this had risen to 400,000. 

The Kurdish People’s Protection Units (YPG) and some Free Syrian Army (FSA) factions, Peshmerga of the Kurdistan Regional Government, and American and US-allied Arab militaries’ airstrikes began to recapture Kobane.

Above: YPG Insignia

Above: Flag of Kurdistan

On 26 January 2015, the YPG and its allies, backed by the continued US-led airstrikes, began to retake the city, driving ISIL into a steady retreat.

The city of Kobanê was fully recaptured on 27 January.

However, most of the remaining villages in the Kobanî Canton remained under ISIL control.

The YPG and its allies then made rapid advances in rural Kobanî, with ISIL withdrawing 25 km from the city of Kobanî by 2 February.

Above: YPG soldiers, Kobani

By late April 2015, ISIL had lost almost all of the villages it had captured in the Canton, but maintained control of a few dozen villages it seized in the northwestern part of the Ragga Governorate.

In late June 2015, ISIL launched a new offensive against the city, killing at least 233 civilians, but were quickly driven back.

The battle for Kobanî was considered a turning point in the war against Islamic State.

This led to the expansion of Kurdish-held territory to that which had already been established there.

Above: YPG fighters, Kobani

Across the border in Turkey, Erdoğan had long viewed the use of the Kurds in Syria as a threat, because the Kurdish separatist group, the PKK has been fighting the Turkish government for decades.

The PKK has pushed for greater autonomy for Kurds living in Turkey, but the Turkish government has rejected their autonomy and has fought back.

This violent conflict between the two has left tens of thousands dead.

Erdoğan claims the PKK is aligned with Kurdish forces in Syria and sees their growing influence across the border as a risk.

An autonomous territory of Kurds in Syria could inspire the same model in Turkey.

Turkey will not sit and watch the formation of an illegitimate zone on our border.“, he said.

Above: Erdoğan and the Safe Zone wish

More than 300,000 Syrian refugees flowed into Turkey to escape the ISIL advance into the Kobanî Canton.

However, security forces did not allow People’s Protection Units (YPG) militants and other volunteers to go the other way, using teargas and water cannons.

Above: Erdoğan and Syrian refugees

On 30 September, errant shells landed on Turkish soil and the Turks shot back into Syrian territory, with Turkish armor being brought to the border to deter further incursions.

Five civilians in Turkey were injured when a mortar hit their house.

Turkey evacuated two villages as a precautionary measure.

While dispersing Kurdish crowds, Turkish police fired teargas directly into a BBC News crew van, breaking through the rear window and starting a small fire.

Protests erupted in various cities in Turkey regarding the lack of support for the Kurds from the Turkish government.

Protesters were met with teargas and water cannons, and initially 12 people were killed.

Thirty-one people were killed in subsequent rioting. 

Turkish President Erdoğan said that he was not ready to launch operations against ISIL in Syria unless it was also against the Bashar al-Assad government.

On 1 November, there was an international day of protest for the Kurds of Kobanî.

Five thousand people demonstrated in the Turkish town of Suruç, 10 kilometres (six miles) from the border.

Above: Suruç protests

At least 15,000 marched in Turkey’s largest Kurdish-majority city of Diyarbakir and 1,000 protested in Istanbul peacefully.

Above: Diyarbakir protests

Above: Istanbul protests

On 7 November, there were reports that a 28-year-old Kurdish woman activist had been “shot in the head” by Turkish soldiers on the Turkish side of the border near Kobanî.

She was reportedly part of a “peaceful group of demonstrators“, who wanted the Turkish government to allow volunteers from Turkey to join the fight against ISIL in Kobanî.

Above: Kobani protests

On 28 November, Kurds alleged that an ISIL suicide bomber crossed over in a vehicle from Turkey into Kobanî.

However, Turkey denied this.

A Kobanî activist, Mustafa Bali, said that ISIL fighters took positions in the grain silos on the Turkish side of the border, and launched attacks toward the border crossing point from there.

Above: Mustafa Bali

However, on 29 November, YPG fighters crossed the Turkish border and attacked ISIL positions on Turkish soil, before pulling back to Syria, and the Turkish Army regained control of the border crossing and silos area shortly afterwards.

On 27 January 2015, Turkey fired tear gas against Kurds trying to cross the border to celebrate the liberation of Kobanî.)

Asserting that aid to the Kurdish-majority People’s Protection Units (YPG) fighters in Syria would assist the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK) (then on ceasefire) in Turkey, Erdoğan held bilateral talks with Barack Obama regarding IS during the 5–6 September 2014 NATO summit in Newport, Wales.

In early October, United States Vice President Joe Biden criticized the Turkish government for supplying jihadists in Syria and said Erdoğan had expressed regret to him about letting foreign jihadists transit through Turkey en route to Syria.

Erdoğan angrily responded, “Biden has to apologize for his statements” adding that if no apology is made, Biden would become “history to me“.

Biden subsequently apologised.

Above: Biden and Erdoğan

In response to the US request to use Incirlik Air Base to conduct air strikes against IS, Erdoğan demanded that Bashar al-Assad be removed from power first. 

Turkey lost its bid for a Security Council seat in the United Nations during the 2014 election. 

The unexpected result is believed to have been a reaction to Erdoğan’s hostile treatment of the Kurds fighting ISIS on the Syrian border and a rebuke of his willingness to support IS-aligned insurgents opposed to Syrian president Bashar al-Assad.

Above: United Nations Security Council Chamber

In 2015, there were consistent allegations that Erdoğan maintained financial links with the Islamic State, including allegations of his son-in-law Berat Albayrak’s involvement with oil production and smuggling in ISIL.

Above: Berat Albayrak

Revelations that the state was supplying arms to militant groups in Syria in the 2014 National Intelligence Organization lorry scandal led to accusations of high treason. 

Above: MIT seal

(The 2014 National Intelligence Organisation scandal (MİT tırları skandalı / “scandal of the NIO rigs“), is a military political scandal regarding the role of Turkish National Intelligence Organization (MİT) in supplying weapons to neighboring Syria during the Syrian Civil War.

The scandal broke out on 1 January 2014, when an anonymous call was made to the Adana Attorney General, claiming that a number of lorries were on their way to Syria carrying weapons on both days.

Above: Sabanci Mosque, Adana, Turkey

Despite the Turkish Gendarmerie conducting a search on 19 January, their search was cut short by the Governor of Adana Hüseyin Avni Coş, who claimed that the lorries belonged to the National Intelligence Organization (MİT).

Above: Turkish Gendarmerie logo

Above: Hüseyin Avni Coş

The prosecutor who ordered the search, as well many of the Gendarmerie soldiers who conducted it, were all removed from their posts and some faced legal investigation.

The government, then led by Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, first claimed that the cargo of the lorries were a ‘national secret‘, but later claimed that the lorries were carrying food and medical supplies to the Turkmen population in Syria.

Above: Flag of Syrian Turkmen

Many critics of the government alleged that the lorries were in fact supplying arms to rebel groups fighting in the Syrian Civil War.

On 29 May 2015, the newspaper Cumhuriyet released footage of the search, confirming that the lorries were in fact carrying weapons, with the title “Here are the weapons Erdoğan denied” (İşte Erdoğan’ın yok dediği silahlar).

The government subsequently faced calls to resign while an investigation began into Cumhuriyet for releasing the footage.

A legal complaint against Erdoğan was made by Republican People’s Party (CHP) Member of Parliament Hüseyin Aygün, who accused him of high treason for supplying weapons to enemies of the Turkish state.

Above: Hüseyin Aygün

A ban was placed on the footage of the lorries, which emerged to have transported 1,000 mortar shells, 1,000 rifled artillery shells, 50,000 machine gun rounds and 30,000 rifle bullets to what was alleged to be Al-Qaeda and the Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant in Syria, but according to later academic study was the Free Syrian Army and rebel Syrian Turkmen.

On 2 June 2015, Recep Tayyip Erdoğan sued Can Dündar, the editor of Cumhuriyet, and requested two aggravated life sentences plus 42 years of imprisonment.

Above: Can Dündar

He and Cumhuriyets Ankara representative Erdem Gül was arrested on 26 November 2015.

Above: Erdem Gül

After 92 days in prison, Dündar and Gül were released on 26 February 2016 after the Constitutional Court of Turkey decided that their detention was an “undue deprivation of liberty“.

Above: Constitutional Court of Turkey logo

On 6 May 2016, Can Dündar was sentenced to imprisonment for five years and 10 months for “leaking secret information of the state“.

Dündar subsequently fled to Germany in June 2016 to avoid imprisonment.

An arrest warrant for him was issued on 31 October 2016.

On 2019, 22 of the 54 suspects involved in the seizure were sentenced to prison terms ranging from 2 to 20 years for acting on the instructions of a terrorist organization, FETÖ.

As well as obtaining and exposing the secret documents of the state.

On 23 December 2020, Can Dündar was sentenced in absentia to 27 years and six months in prison for espionage and aiding an armed terrorist organisation (FETÖ).)

Above: Protest in support of Can Dündar and Erdem Gül, 26 December 2015

In July 2015, Turkey became involved in the international military intervention against ISIL, simultaneously launching airstrikes against PKK bases in Iraqi Kurdistan.

As of 2015, Turkey began openly supporting the Army of Conquest, a coalition of Syrian rebel groups that included al-Nusra Front and Ahrar al-Sham. 

Above: Emblem of the Army of Conquest

The next year Trump won the White House, vowing to stay out of Syria and signalling that Assad should be able to stay in power.

Above: Donald Trump

Erdoğan has launched attacks on Syria multiple times.

The first attack came in 2016 when Turkish troops attacked the Jarabulus region to push back ISIS and block Kurdish expansion across the border.

In late November 2016, Erdoğan said that the Turkish military launched its operations in Syria to end Assad’s rule, but retracted this statement shortly afterwards.

At the end of 2016, Assad, helped by Russian air power and Iranian-sponsored missiles, retook the Syrian city of Aleppo, knocking the rebels out of their last remaining urban stronghold.

Above: Map of territorial changes during the September-October 2016 government offensive in Aleppo, Syria. Red: government controlled at the end of the offensive Green: rebel controlled at the end of the offensive Purple lines: front line at the start of the offensive Yellow: Kurdish control

On 4 April 2017, Assad once again used chemical weapons against his people on the town of Khan Shaykhun, which killed at least 89 people (including 20 children) and injured more than 541.

Above: Khan Shaykhun victims

Back in the United States, Trump said his attitude to Syria and Assad had changed very much due to the attack.

He vowed to bomb Assad and within a few days the US launched dozens of Tomahawk missiles striking an Assad airbase in Syria.

It was the first time the United States had openly attacked the Assad regime, adding another criss-crossing complication to an already multi-dimensional civil war.

Above: USS Ross firing a Tomahawk missile towards the Shayrat base

In January 2018, the Turkish military and its Syrian National Army and Sham Legion allies began the Turkish military operation in Afrin in the Kurdish-majority Afrin Canton in Northern Syria, against the YPG.

On 10 April, Erdoğan rejected a Russian demand to return Afrin to Syrian government control.

Turkey gained control of these areas but by this time it was facing problems within its borders.

By 2019, the Syrian Democratic Forces (SDF) broke the ISIS stronghold in the north.

The SDF set up prisons that held 11,000 ISIS captive fighters and housed tens of thousands ISIS family members in displacement camps.

US military bases also cropped up in this Kurdish-run area.

US troops began patrolling the Turkish-Syrian border.

A trade war with the United States and economic mismanagement of the country’s leaders caused the Turkish economy to crash.

And many Turks found themselves unable to find work as unemployment increased.

This downturn caused many to look for a scapegoat.

The war in Syria had forced over 6 million refugees to flee the country.

3.6 million of those refugees fled to Turkey – more than any other nation.

As Turkey’s economy slumped more and more, Turks disapproved of Erdoğan and resented the influx of refugees.

In 2014 Erdoğan’s AKP had broad support, but in March 2019 his party lost 11 seats.

To make matters worse, a pro-Kurdish party, the Peoples’ Democratic Party, helped other opposition parties win across the country.

Together they delivered Erdoğan’s worst night at the ballot box.

This all reflected some major discomfort with the President.

The Kurds had become the key in this result.

To regain political popularity, the pressure was on Erdoğan to act.

Above: Logo of the People’s Democratic Party

After the elections, Erdoğan doubled down on an idea he had been proposing for years, a Safe Zone between Turkey and Syria.

Erdoğan had already taken control of a region of northwest Syria.

Now he wanted to expand that territory to the east, further into Kurkish-led land.

Looking forward, we will continue this process until we completely eliminate this corridor.“, he said.

Erdoğan claimed that the purpose of this Safe Zone would be to move Syrian refugees back into this strip of Syria.

He took his plan to Russia and the US, but he couldn’t get them on board.

With political pressure mounting at home, Erdoğan and his government threatened to move into Syria on their own.

Our wish is to reach an agreement on the Safe Zone and put it into action as soon as possible.“, said Turkish Foreign Minister Mevlut Cavusuğlu.

Above: Mevlut Cavusuğlu

But there was an obstacle in their way.

The US, an ally of Turkey and a military supporter of the Kurds, still had troops stationed in northern Syria.

So Turkey couldn’t make its move.

In August 2019, Turkey made some progress with the US.

The two agreed to a Safe Zone that they would patrol together.

This Zone would extend 5km into northern Syria.

But this agreement was not enough for Erdoğan.

On 24 September 2019, at the United Nations he proposed a much larger Zone.

We intend to establish a peace corridor with a depth of 30km and the length of 480 km in Syria to enable the settlement of 2 million Syrians there.”, he said.

Soon after this Address, Turkey found a way into Syria.

In October 2019, after Erdoğan spoke to him, US President Donald Trump gave the go-ahead to the 2019 Turkish offensive into northeastern Syria, despite recently agreeing to a Northern Syria Buffer Zone. 

I don’t want to leave troops there.

It’s very dangerous.

We never agreed to protect the Kurds for the rest of our lives.” (21 October 2019)

It’s now time to bring our soldiers home.” (22 October 2019)

Trump broke the US alliance with the Kurds and pulled troops from along the border.

US troops in northern Syria were withdrawn from the border to avoid interference with the Turkish operation.

After the US pullout, Turkey proceeded to attack the Autonomous Administration of North and East Syria.

Erdoğan finally seized his opportunity and sent troops into northeast Syria on 9 October 2019.

Turkey’s invasion was brutal and destabilizing.

What happened in Syria could only be described as chaos.

Kurdish hospitals were overwhelmed.

Thousands tried to escape the violence.

Turkey sent in Arab militias that would displace the Kurds from their homes.

As they defended themselves, they left ISIS prisoners unguarded.

Hundreds escaped.

The US withdrawal and Turkey’s invasion created a new power vacuum in northern Syria

As the Americans left, another force roared in.

Rejecting criticism of the invasion, Erdoğan claimed that NATO and European Union countries “sided with terrorists, and all of them attacked us“. 

Above: Flag of the European Union

A poll by Metropoll Research found that 79% of Turkish respondents expressed support for the operation.

The Kurds made a deal with Syria’s President Assad, while Russian President Putin and Turkish President Erdoğan made a deal about the future of Syria.

Above: Erdoğan and Putin

Erdoğan has served as the de facto leader of Turkey since 2002.

In response to criticism, Erdoğan made a speech in May 2014 denouncing allegations of dictatorship, saying that the leader of the opposition, Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu, who was there at the speech, would not be able to “roam the streets” freely if he were a dictator.

Kılıçdaroğlu responded that political tensions would cease to exist if Erdoğan stopped making his polarising speeches for three days.

Above: Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu

One observer said it was a measure of the state of Turkish democracy that Prime Minister Ahmet Davutoğlu could openly threaten, on 20 December 2015, that, if his party did not win the election, Turkish Kurds would endure a repeat of the era of the “white Toros“, the Turkish name for the Renault 12, “a car associated with the gendarmarie’s fearsome intelligence agents, who carried out thousands of extrajudicial executions of Kurdish nationalists during the 1990s“.

Above: Ahmet Davutoğlu

In February 2015, a 13-year-old was charged by a prosecutor after allegedly insulting Erdoğan on Facebook.

In 2016, a waiter was arrested for insulting Erdoğan by allegedly saying:

If Erdoğan comes here, I will not even serve tea to him.”

Erdoğan supported the 2017 referendum which changed Turkey’s parliamentary system into a presidential system, thus setting for the first time in Turkish history a term limit for the head of government (two full five-year terms).

This new system of government formally came into place after the 2018 general election, where Erdoğan became an executive president.

Above: Flag of the President of Turkey

His party however lost the majority in the Parliament and is currently in a coalition (People’s Alliance) with the Turkish nationalist MHP.

Above: Logo of the Nationalist Movement Party (MHP)

Erdoğan has since been tackling, but also accused of contributing to, the ongoing Turkish currency and debt crisis of 2018, which has caused a significant decline in his popularity and is widely believed to have contributed to the results of the 2019 local elections, in which his party lost power in large cities such as Ankara and Istanbul to opposition parties for the first time in 15 years.

Above: Ankara

Above: Istanbul

As I wrote these words from Room 216 of the Park Dedeman Hotel in Denizli, a forested slope was the view outside my room window.

In the room I listened to Americans obsess about their politics and read old newspapers about Turks obsessing about theirs.

In both cases I was reminded of political leaders who have difficulty letting go of the past regardless of whether they emerged victorious or not.

Above: Park Dedeman, Denizli

Case in point:

The operation was planned by Generals Ismail Hakki Karadayi, Çevik Bir, Teoman Koman, Çetin Doğan, Necdet Timur, and Erol Özkasnak.

Above: İsmail Hakkı Karadayı

Above: Çevik Bir

Above: Teoman Koman

Above: Çetin Doğan

Above: Necdet Timur

Above: Erol Özkasnak

General Koman approached Hasan Celal Güzel in September 1996 with a plan to install him or Mesut Yilmaz as Prime Minister after the planned coup.

Güzel declined to get involved. 

Yılmaz was appointed Prime Minister after the coup.

Above: Mesut Yilmaz (1947 – 2020)

On 17 January 1997, during a visit to the Turkish General Staff, President Süleyman Demirel requested a briefing on common military problems. 

Karadayi, the Chief of the General Staff, enumerated 55 items.

Demirel said half of them were based on hearsay and encouraged Karadayı to communicate with the government and to soften the Memorandum’s wording.

Above: Suleyman Demirel (1924 – 2015)

On 31 January 1997, protests were arranged by the Sincan municipality in Ankara, against Israeli human rights violations that took place in guise of an “Al-Quds night“.

The building in which the event took place was plastered with posters of Hamas and Hezbollah.

Above: 31 January 1997 Ankara protests

As a reaction to the demonstration, tanks moved to the streets of Sincan on 4 February.

This intervention was later described by Çevik Bir as “a balance adjustment to democracy“.

Above: Sincan, 4 February 1997

At the National Security Council (MGK) meeting on 28 February 1997, the generals submitted their views on issues regarding secularism and political Islam on Turkey to the government.

The MGK made several decisions during this meeting, and Prime Minister Necmettin Erbakan from the Welfare Party was forced to sign the decisions, some of which were:

  • Eight years of primary school education
  • Shutting down many religious schools opened during his term
  • Abolition of tarigas (civilian religious groups)

Erbakan was forced to resign as a result of the military memorandum.

Above: Necmettin Erbakan (1926 – 2011)

Although it was declared that a new government should be formed with the premiership of Tansu Çiller, Demirel appointed ANAP leader Mesut Yilmaz to form the new government.

Above: Tansu Çiller

Above: Motherland Party (ANAP) logo

He formed a new coalition government with Bülent Ecevit (DSP leader) and Hüsamettin Cindoruk (the founder and the leader of DP, a party founded after 28 February Process by former DYP members) on 30 June 1997.

Above: Bülent Ecevit

Above: Democratic Left Party (DSP)

Above: Hüsamettin Cindoruk

Above: True Path Party (DYP)

Above: Democratic Party (DP) logo

The Welfare Party was closed by the Constitutional Court of Turkey in 1998 for violating the Constitution’s separation of religion and state clause.

Above: Welfare Party logo

Erbakan was banned from politics for five years, and former MP members and mayors of RP joined the successor Virtue Party.

Above: Necmettin Erbakan

Above: Virtue Party logo

Istanbul mayor, Recep Tayyip Erdoğan from the Virtue Party, was soon afterwards given a prison sentence after he read a nationalist and Islamist poem at a public function where he was present as mayor.

He was banned from politics for five years.

Above: The imprisoned mayor

In the 1999 general elections, the Virtue Party won several seats in the parliament but it was not as successful as the RP in the 1995 general elections.

One of the MP members of the party was Merve Kavakçi who wore an Islamic headscarf.

The Virtue Party was also closed by the Constitutional Court in 2001.

Above: Merve Kavakçi

Although former Istanbul Mayor Erdoğan was still banned from politics, he managed to form the Justice and Development Party (AKP), a reformist party that declared that it would not be a political party with an Islamist axis, as the Welfare Party and the Virtue Party of the ousted Erbakan had been before him.

The traditional Islamists who did not favor this route formed the Felicity Party.

Above: Felicity Party logo

Çevik Bir and 30 other officers from the Army were detained for their roles in this coup in April 2012.

Above: Turkish Army logo

Erdoğan holds a grudge.

He has said that the Turkish nation will never forget those who took a tough stance during the 28 February “post-modern coup“.

Our nation has never forgotten and will never forget those who stood upright and those applauded the coup and the coup plotters in those days.”, Erdoğan said on 28 February 2022, while speaking at a ceremony held for the introduction of Sule Yüksel Şenler Foundation and the Sule documentary display program.

In his speech, Erdoğan thanked the Foundation for bringing them together on the occasion of the 25th anniversary of the “post-modern coup“.

Above: Şule Yüksel Şenler

The date 28 February is known for the forced resignation of the democratically elected government in early 1997.

On 28 February 1997, the military was involved in the collapse of late Prime Minister Necmettin Erbakan’s administration amid concerns expressed by generals about the government’s alleged Islamist program.

The National Security Council released a declaration against what it called “reactionary activities against the secular state” in an ultimatum to the coalition government of the Islamist Welfare Party (RP) and the centre-right True Path Party (DYP).

Above: Logo of Turkey’s National Security Council

While the move was ostensibly directed against Erbakan’s Islamist party, some have speculated that the coup was actually directed against Erbakan’s coalition partner, Tansu Çiller, who was implicated in the Susurluk scandal.

The Susurluk car crash in 1996 and the subsequent Susurluk scandal revealed the relations between extra-legal organisations and Çiller’s government.

These revelations led to a decline in her approval ratings.

Erbakan’s government fell in 1997 and the DYP declined further in the 1999 general election.

Despite coming third in the 2002 general election, Çiller’s DYP won less than 10% of the vote and thus lost all parliamentary representation, which led to her resignation as party leader and departure from active politics.

Above: Tansu Çiller

It is alleged that Bülent Orakoğlu of the police intelligence, under Hanefi Avci, learned about the coup plans.

Hanefi Avcı is a former chief of police in Turkey, and author of the best-selling book Haliç’te Yaşayan Simonlar, in which Avcı claimed that the Gülen movement had infiltrated the police and manipulated key trials through judges and prosecutors close to the movement.

Avcı, a conservative Islamist, was himself once close to the movement, and his children were educated in a Gülen school.

Avcı, who in the 1990s testified to Parliament in relation to the Susurluk scandal and in 2009 to prosecutors about the mafia links of the Ergenekon organization (an alleged clandestine, secular, ultra-nationalist organization), was the first Turkish state official to confirm the existence of the Turkish Gendarmerie’s JITEM intelligence unit.

Shortly after publishing the book, Avcı was arrested, accused of leaking information to the nominally Marxist-Leninist Devrimci Karagâh organization.

Above: Logo of Devrimci Karagâh

Later he was additionally charged with being connected with the Ergenekon organization.

Above: Hanefi Avci

Çevik Bir, one of the generals who planned the process, said:

In Turkey we have a marriage of Islam and democracy.

The child of this marriage is secularism.

Now this child gets sick from time to time.

The Turkish Armed Forces is the doctor which saves the child.

Depending on how sick the kid is, we administer the necessary medicine to make sure the child recuperates.”

Above: Logo of the Turkish Armed Forces

Necmettin Erbakan claimed that the process was planned by “Zionists“.

Above: Flag of Israel

In the 1999 general elections, the Virtue Party won several seats in Parliament but it was not as successful as the Welfare Party in the 1995 general elections.

One of the MP members of the party was Merve Kavakçi who wore an Islamic headscarf.

The Virtue Party was also closed by the Constitutional Court in 2001.

Above: Logo of the Virtue Party

Çevik Bir and 30 other officers from the Army were detained for their roles in this coup in April 2012.

In October 2016, Tuncay Özkan claimed that the 28 February process was prepared and organized by the Gülen movement.

Ahmet Tuncay Özkan is a Turkish journalist, writer and politician.

He was arrested on 27 September 2008, in relation to the Ergenekon trials.

In August 2013 he was sentenced to aggravated life imprisonment.

He was released on 10 March 2014.

Above: Tuncay Özkan

Expressing his gratitude to the “unsung heroes who have made an effort to prevent the nation and country from paying heavier prices“, Erdoğan said that he remembers with gratitude those who worked, suffered and sacrificed for the independence of the nation, the preservation of the nation’s faith and the revival of the values of civilization.

This nation condemned the coup plotters and those who supported the coup, first at the ballot box and then in the common conscience.”, he said.

He stressed that the political establishment has duly fulfilled its responsibility in his government’s period to punish the actors of the 12 September and 28 February coups.

Above: President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

(The 1970s in Turkey was characterized by political turmoil and violence.

Since 1969, a proportional representation system had made it difficult for any one party to achieve a parliamentary majority.

The interests of the industrial bourgeoisie, which held the largest holdings of the country, were opposed by other social classes, such as smaller industrialists, traders, rural notables, and landlords, whose interests did not always coincide among themselves.

Numerous agricultural and industrial reforms sought by parts of the middle upper classes were blocked by others.

By the end of the 1970s, Turkey was in an unstable situation with unsolved economic and social problems, facing strike actions, and the partial paralysis of parliamentary politics.

The Grand National Assembly of Turkey had been unable to elect a president during the six months preceding the coup. 

Above: Grand National Assembly of Turkey

In 1975, conservative Justice Party (Adalet Partisi) leader Süleyman Demirel was succeeded as Prime Minister by the leader of the social-democratic Republican People’s Party (Cumhuriyet Halk Partisi), Bülent Ecevit.

Demirel formed a coalition with the Nationalist Front (Milliyetçi Cephe), the National Salvation Party (Millî Selamet Partisi, an Islamist party led by Necmettin Erbakan), and the far-right Nationalist Movement Party (Milliyetçi Hareket Partisi) led by Alparslan Türkes.

The MHP used the opportunity to infiltrate state security services, seriously aggravating the low-intensity war between the rival factions.

Politicians seemed unable to stem the growing violence in the country.

Above: Nationalist Movement Party logo

The elections of 1977 had no winner.

At first, Demirel continued the coalition with the Nationalist Front.

But in 1978, Ecevit once again took power with the help of some deputies who had moved from one party to another, until 1979, when Demirel once again became Prime Minister.

Above: Former seal of the Prime Minister of Turkey

Unprecedented political violence erupted in Turkey in the late 1970s.

The overall death toll of the 1970s is estimated at 5,000, with nearly ten assassinations per day. 

Most were members of left-wing and right-wing political organizations, then engaged in bitter fighting.

The ultra-nationalist Grey Wolves, the youth organisation of the MHP, claimed they were supporting the security forces.

Above: Logo of the Grey Wolves

According to the anti-fascist Searchlight magazine, in 1978 there were 3,319 fascist attacks, in which 831 were killed and 3,121 wounded.

In the central trial against the radical left-wing organization Devrimci Yol (Revolutionary Path) at Ankara Military Court, the defendants listed 5,388 political killings before the military coup.

Among the victims were 1,296 right-wingers and 2,109 left-wingers.

Other killings couldn’t be definitely connected, but were most likely politically inspired.

Above: Flag of Devrimci Yol

The 1977 Taksim Square massacre, the 1978 Bahçelievler massacre and the Maraş massacre stood out.

Above: Taksim Square Massacre, 1 May 1977

The Taksim Square massacre (Kanlı 1 Mayıs, or the Bloody First of May) was an attack on leftist demonstrators on 1 May 1977 (International Workers’ Day) in Taksim Square, Istanbul.

Casualty figures vary between 34 and 42 persons killed and 126 and 220 injured.

Over 500 demonstrators were later detained by the security forces, and 98 were indicted.

None of the perpetrators were caught, although suspicion soon fell on the Counter Guerilla and associated right wing groups.

The massacre was part of the wave of political violence in Turkey in the late 1970s.

Above: Headlines regarding the Bahçeliever Massacre, 9 October 1978

The Bahçelievler massacre is the name given to the events of 9 October 1978 in Bahçelievler, Ankara, when seven university students, members of the Workers’ Party of Turkey, were assassinated by ultra-nationalists.

The assailants, who were armed with a number of weapons, were reportedly surprised to find the “revolutionary” students unarmed in their apartment.

Five of the students were killed in the apartment, and two were taken away by car and killed nearby.

Following the Maraş massacre, martial law was announced in 14 of (then) 67 provinces in December 1978.

By the time of the coup, it had been extended to 20 provinces.

Above: Maraş Massacre, December 1978

The Maraş massacre (Maraş katliamı) was the massacre of more than one hundred Alevi Kurds in the city of Kahramanmaraş, in December 1978, primarily by the neo-fascist Grey Wolves.

The events in Karamanmaraş lasted from 19 to 26 December 1978.

It started with a bomb thrown into a cinema attended mostly by right-wingers. 

Rumours spread that left-wingers had thrown the bomb.

The next day, a bomb was thrown into a coffee shop frequently visited by left wingers. 

In the evening of 21 December 1978, teachers Hacı Çolak and Mustafa Yüzbaşıoğlu, known as left-wingers, were killed on their way home.

Their funeral was to take place the next day, but armed clashes erupted outside the mosque where prayers were preventing the ceremony.

By the end of the day, a total of three people were killed and property and workplaces were destroyed.

Over the next five days, over a hundred people were killed, a majority being women and children who were killed in cold blood at home.

Parts of Maraş were destroyed and a curfew was subsequently instated in the city. Neither the army nor the police attempted to stop the actions.

On 23 December, crowds stormed the quarters where Alevis were living, attacking people and destroying houses and shops.

Many offices, including that of the Confederation of Progressive Trade Unions of Turkey (DİSK), the Teachers’ Association of Turkey (TÖB-Der), the Association of Police Officers (Pol-Der) and the Republican People’s Party (CHP), were destroyed.

By 26 December, the city and situation was brought under control and the government put thirteen provinces in martial law.

Most of the victims were from the small population of Kurdish Alevis in Sunni-populated areas in the city.

Ecevit was warned about the coming coup in June 1979 by Nuri Gündes of the National Intelligence Organization (Milli İstihbarat Teşkilatı / MİT).

Ecevit told his interior minister, İrfan Özaydınlı, who then passed the news on to Sedat Celasun — one of the five generals who would lead the coup.

(The deputy undersecretary of the MİT, Nihat Yıldız, was demoted to the London Consulate and replaced by a lieutenant general as a result).

Above: Seal of the Turkish National Intelligence Organization

On 11 September 1979, General Kenan Evren ordered a hand-written report from full general Haydar Saltik on whether a coup was in order or the government merely needed a stern warning.

The report, which recommended preparing for a coup, was delivered in six months.

Evren kept the report in his office safe.

Evren says the only other person beside Saltık who was aware of the details was Nurettin Ersin.

It has been argued that this was a ploy on Evren’s part to encompass the political spectrum as Saltık was close to the left, while Ersin took care of the right.

Backlash from political organizations after the coup would therefore be prevented.

Above: Kenan Evren

Above: Haydar Saltik

On 21 December, the War Academy generals convened to decide the course of action.

The pretext for the coup was to put an end to the social conflicts of the 1970s, as well as the parliamentary instability.

They resolved to issue the party leaders (Süleyman Demirel and Bülent Ecevit) a memorandum by way of the president, Fahri Korutürk, which was done on 27 December.

The leaders received the letter a week later.

Above: Suleyman Demirel (1924 – 2015)

Above: Bülent Ecevit (1925 – 2006)

Above: Fahri Korutürk (1903 – 1987)

A second report, submitted in March 1980, recommended undertaking the coup without further delay, otherwise apprehensive lower-ranked officers might be tempted to “take the matter into their own hands“.

Evren made only minor amendments to Saltık’s plan, titled “Operation Flag” (Bayrak Harekâtı).

The coup was planned to take place on 11 July 1980, but was postponed after a motion to put Demirel’s government to a vote of confidence was rejected on 2 July.

At the Supreme Military Council meeting (Yüksek Askeri Şura) on 26 August, a second date was proposed: 12 September.

On 7 September 1980, Evren and the four service commanders decided that they would overthrow the civilian government.

Above: Seal of the National Security Council and the Presidency

On 12 September, the National Security Council (Milli Güvenlik Konseyi / MGK), headed by Evren declared coup d’état on the national channel.

The MGK then extended martial law throughout the country, abolished Parliament and the government, suspended the Constitution and banned all political parties and trade unions.

They invoked the Kemalist tradition of state secularism and in the unity of the nation, which had already justified the precedent coups, and presented themselves as opposed to communism, fascism, separatism and religious sectarianism.

The nation learned of the coup at 4:30 AM on the state radio address announcing that the parliament had been dismissed and that the country was under the control of the Turkish Armed Forces.

According to the Armed Forces broadcast, the coup was needed to save the Turkish Republic from political fragmentation, violence and the economic collapse that was created by political mismanagement. 

Kenan Evren was appointed head of the National Security Council (Milli Güvenlik Konseyi).

Above: Emblem of the Turkish Armed Forces

In the days following the coup the NSC suspended parliament, disbanded all political parties and took their leaders in custody.

Workers’ strikes were made illegal and labour unions were suspended.

Local governors, mayors and public servants were replaced by military personnel.

Curfews were imposed in the evenings under the declared state of emergency and leaving the country was prohibited.

By the end of 1982 over 120,000 people had been imprisoned.

Istanbul was served by three military mayors between 1980 and 1984.

They renamed the leftist shanty towns changing names like “1 Mayıs Mahallesi” to “Mustafa Kemal Mahallesi“, as a symbol of the military rule.

Above: Istanbul

One of the coup’s most visible effects was on the economy.

On the day of the coup, it was on the verge of collapse, with three digit inflation.

There was large-scale unemployment and a chronic foreign trade deficit.

The economic changes between 1980 and 1983 were credited to Turgut Özal, who was the main person responsible for economic policy since 24 January 1980.

Above: Turgut Özal (1927 – 1993)

Özal supported the IMF and to this end he forced the resignation of the director of the Central Bank, İsmail Aydınoğlu, who opposed it.

Above: Logo of the Turkish Central Bank

Above: Ismail Aydınoğlu (1933 – 2017)

The strategic aim was to unite Turkey with the “global economy” which big business supported and gave Turkish companies the ability to market products and services globally.

One month after the coup, London’s International Banking Review wrote:

A feeling of hope is evident among international bankers that Turkey’s military coup may have opened the way to greater political stability as an essential prerequisite for the revitalization of the Turkish economy.”

During the years 1980–1983, the foreign exchange rate was allowed to float freely.

Foreign investment was encouraged.

The national establishments, initiated by Atatürk’s reforms, were promoted to involve joint enterprises with foreign establishments.

The 85% pre-coup level government involvement in the economy forced a reduction in the relative importance of the state sector.

Just after the coup, Turkey revitalized the Atatürk Dam and the Southeastern Anatolia Project, which was a land reform project promoted as a solution to underdeveloped southeastern Anatolia.

It was transformed into a multi-sector social and economic development program, a sustainable development program for the nine million people of the region.

The closed economy, produced for only Turkey’s need, was subsidized for a vigorous export drive.

The drastic expansion of the economy during this period was relative to the previous level.

The GDP remained well below those of most Middle Eastern and European countries.

The government froze wages while the economy experienced a significant decrease of the public sector, a deflationist policy, and several successive mini-devaluations.

Above: Atatürk Dam, Euphrates River, Turkey

The coup rounded up members of both the left and right for trial with military tribunals.

Within a very short time, there were 250,000 to 650,000 people detained.

Among the detainees, 230,000 were tried, 14,000 were stripped of citizenship, and 50 were executed.

In addition, hundreds of thousands of people were tortured, and thousands disappeared.

A total of 1,683,000 people were blacklisted.

Apart from the militants killed during shootings, at least four prisoners were legally executed immediately after the coup – the first ones since 1972, while in February 1982 there were 108 prisoners condemned to capital punishment.

Among the prosecuted were Ecevit, Demirel, Türkeş, and Erbakan, who were incarcerated and temporarily suspended from politics.

One notable victim of the hangings was a 17-year-old Erdal Eren, who said he looked forward to it in order to avoid thinking of the torture he had witnessed.

Above: Erdal Eren (1961 – 1980)

After having taken advantage of the Grey Wolves’ activism, General Kenan Evren imprisoned hundreds of them.

At the time they were some 1,700 Grey Wolves organizations in Turkey, with about 200,000 registered members and a million sympathizers. 

In its indictment of the MHP in May 1981, the Turkish military government charged 220 members of the MHP and its affiliates for 694 murders.

Evren and his cohorts realized that Türkeş was a charismatic leader who could challenge their authority using the paramilitary Grey Wolves.

Following the coup in Colonel Türkeş’s indictment, the Turkish press revealed the close links maintained by the MHP with security forces as well as organized crime involved in drug trade, which financed in return weapons and the activities of hired fascist commandos all over the country.

Above: Alparslan Türkeş (1917 – 1997)

Within three years the generals passed some 800 laws in order to form a militarily disciplined society.

The coup members were convinced of the unworkability of the existing Constitution.

They decided to adopt a new Constitution that included mechanisms to prevent what they saw as impeding the functioning of democracy.

On 29 June 1981 the military junta appointed 160 people as members of an advisory assembly to draft a new Constitution.

The new Constitution brought clear limits and definitions, such as on the rules of election of the President, which was stated as a factor for the coup d’état.

On 7 November 1982 the new Constitution was put to a referendum, which was accepted with 92% of the vote.

On 9 November 1982 Kenan Evren was appointed President for the next seven years.

Above: Kenan Evren (1917 – 2015)

Results of the 1980 Turkish coup d’état:

  • 650,000 people were under arrest.
  • 1,683,000 people were blacklisted.
  • 230,000 people were tried in 210,000 lawsuits.
  • 7,000 people were recommended for the death penalty.
  • 517 people were sentenced to death.
  • 50 of those given the death penalty were executed.
  • The files of 259 people, which had been recommended for the death penalty, were sent to the National Assembly.
  • 71,000 people were tried by Articles 141, 142 and 163 of the Turkish Penal Code.
  • 98,404 people were tried on charges of being members of outlawed organizations.
  • 388,000 people were denied a passport.
  • 30,000 people were dismissed from their firms because they were suspects.
  • 14,000 people had their citizenship revoked.
  • 30,000 people went abroad as political refugees.
  • 300 people died in a suspicious manner.
  • 171 people died by reason of torture.
  • 937 films were banned because they were found objectionable.
  • 23,677 associations had their activities stopped.
  • 3,854 teachers, 120 lecturers and 47 judges were dismissed.
  • 400 journalists were sentenced to 3,315 years and 6 months imprisonment, and 31 journalists were actually imprisoned.
  • 300 journalists were attacked.
  • Three journalists were shot dead.
  • There were 300 days in which newspapers were not published.
  • 303 cases were opened for 13 major newspapers.
  • 39 tonnes of newspapers and magazines were destroyed.
  • 299 people lost their lives in prison.
  • 144 people died in a suspicious manner in prison.
  • 14 people died in hunger strikes in prison.
  • 16 people were shot while fleeing.
  • 95 people were killed in combat.
  • Natural death reports” for 73 persons was given.
  • The cause of death of 43 people was announced as “suicide“.

After the approval by referendum of the new Constitution in June 1982, Kenan Evren organized general elections, held on 6 November 1983.

This democratization has been criticized by the Turkish scholar Ergun Özbudun as a “textbook case” of a junta’s dictating the terms of its departure.

The referendum and the elections did not take place in a free and competitive setting.

Above: Ergun Özbudun

Many political leaders of the pre-coup era (including Süleyman Demirel, Bülent Ecevit, Alparslan Türkeş and Necmettin Erbakan) had been banned from politics, and all new parties needed to get the approval of the National Security Council in order to participate in the elections.

Only three parties, two of which were actually created by the junta, were permitted to contest.

The secretary general of the National Security Council was General Haydar Saltık.

Both he and Evren were the strong men of the regime, while the government was headed by retired Admiral Bülent Ulusu, and included several retired military officers and a few civil servants.

Above: Bülent Ulusu (1923 – 2015)

Some alleged in Turkey, after the coup, that General Saltuk had been preparing a more radical, rightist coup, which had been one of the reasons prompting the other generals to act, respecting the hierarchy, and then to include him in the MGK in order to neutralize him.

Out of the 1983 elections came one-party governance under Turgut Özal’s Motherland Party, which combined a neo-liberal economic program with conservative social values.

Yildirim Akbulut became the head of Parliament.

Above: Yildirim Akbulut (1935 – 2021)

He was succeeded in 1991 by Mesut Yilmaz.

Above: Mesut Yilmaz (1947 – 2020)

Meanwhile, Süleyman Demirel founded the centre-right True Path Party in 1983 and returned to active politics after the 1987 Turkish referendum.

Yılmaz redoubled Turkey’s economic profile, converting towns like Gaziantep from small provincial capitals into mid-sized economic boomtowns, and renewed its orientation toward Europe.

Above: Gaziantep

But political instability followed as the host of banned politicians re-entered politics, fracturing the vote, and the Motherland Party became increasingly corrupt.

The Özal government empowered the police force with intelligence capabilities to counter the National Intelligence Organization, which at the time was run by the military.

The police force even engaged in external intelligence collection.

Özal, who succeeded Evren as President of Turkey, died of a heart attack on 17 April 1993.

Conspiracy theories still rage as to whether he was bumped off by the “deep state“.

Özal, despite his many faults, was the most eloquent and influential head of state since Atatürk.

Respected by many for his energy, courage and vision, despised by an equal number for his overbearing manner and shameless self-aggrandizement, Özal remains an ambiguous figure who sometimes did the right thing for opportunistic reasons.

Above: Turgut Özal (1927 – 1993)

Süleyman Demirel was elected President, while US-educated technocrat Tansu Çiller became Prime Minister in June 1993.

With her assertive style and telegenic manner, her rise to power was initially viewed positively, though she soon proved woefully inadequate.

Hopes of a fresh take on Kurdish issues vanished as Çiller deferred to military hardliners, the death toll in east Anatolia rocketed, and the Kurdish interests party DEP was proscribed.

Inflation shot up to a staggering 120%, before dipping to “only” 80%.

Major corruption scandals erupted regularly.

No party escaped guilt as all had governed recently.

In 1996 an Associated Press article listed Çiller among the world’s ten most corrupt politicians.

Above: Tansu Çiller

After the 2010 referendum, an investigation was started regarding the 1980 coup, and in June 2011, the Specially Authorized Ankara Deputy Prosecutor’s Office asked ex-prosecutor Sacit Kayasu to forward a copy of an indictment he had prepared for Kenan Evren.

Kayasu had previously been fired for trying to indict Evren in 2003.

Above: Sacit Kayasu

In January 2012, a Turkish court accepted the indictments against General Kenan Evren and General Tahsin Şahinkaya, the only coup leaders still alive at the time, for their role in the coup.

Prosecutors sought life sentences against the two retired generals. 

According to the indictment, a total of 191 people died in custody during the aftermath of the coup, due to “inhumane” acts.

Above: Tahsin Şahinkaya

The trial began on 4 April 2012.

In 2012, a court case was launched against Şahinkaya and Kenan Evren relating to the 1980 military coup.

Both were sentenced to life imprisonment on 18 June 2014 by a court in Ankara.

But neither of the two was sent to prison as both were in hospitals for medical treatment.

Şahinkaya died in the Gülhane Military Medical Academy Hospital (GATA) in Haydarpasa, Istanbul on 9 July 2015.

Evren died at a military hospital in Ankara on 9 May 2015, aged 97.

His sentence was on appeal at the time of his death.

Above: GATA, Istanbul

The American involvement in this coup was alleged to have been acknowledged by the CIA Ankara station chief Paul Henze.

Above: Paul Henze

In his book “12 Eylül: saat 04.00“, journalist Mehmet Ali Birand wrote that after the government was overthrown, Henze cabled Washington, saying:

Our boys did it.”

Above: Mehmet Ali Birand

In a June 2003 interview to Zaman, Henze denied American involvement stating:

I did not say to Carter:

“Our boys did it.”

It is totally a tale, a myth.

It is something Birand fabricated.

He knows it, too.

I talked to him about it.

Above: Jimmy Carter

Two days later Birand replied on CNN Türk’s Manşet by saying:

It is impossible for me to have fabricated it.

The American support to the coup and the atmosphere in Washington were in the same direction.

Henze narrated me these words despite he now denies it.” 

Above: Birand

Birand presented the footage of an interview with Henze recorded in 1997 according to which a diplomat rather than Henze informed the President, saying:

The boys in Ankara did it.” 

Some Turkish media sources reported it as:

Henze indeed said “Our boys did it.”

The US State Department itself announced the coup during the night between 11 and 12 September:

The military had phoned the US Embassy in Ankara to alert them of the coup an hour in advance. 

Both in his press conference held after the government was overthrown and when interrogated by public prosecutor in 2011 General Kenan Evren said:

The US did not have pre-knowledge of the coup, but we informed them of the coup two hours in advance, due to our soldiers coinciding with the American community JUSMAT that is in Ankara.”

Tahsin Şahinkaya – then the General in charge of the Turkish Air Forces who is said to have travelled to the United States just before the coup, told the US Army the General was not informed of the upcoming coup and that the General was surprised to have been uninformed of the coup after the government was overthrown.

Above: Logo of the Turkish Air Force

The coup has been criticized in many Turkish movies, TV series and songs since 1980.

Above: 2006 film Beynelmilel (The International)

In the past 80 years Turkey has experienced three military coups and one failed attempt, this last during Erdogan’s term.)

Above: Flag of Turkey

Those who abuse the will of the national had to give an account of their crimes before the law for the first time in history, as well as the conscience of the nation.“, Erdoğan added.

While we are holding this meeting with those who follow the struggle of ideas, beliefs and thoughts here today, others are holding different kinds of meetings on the other side.”, he said, referring to the opposition parties.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Şule Yüksel Şenler was a writer and activist known for her efforts in Muslim women’s struggle in society.

Above: Şule Yüksel Şenler (1938 – 2019)

She introduced Emine to her future husband, President Erdoğan.

The deceased Ms. Şule Yüksel Şenler has a very special place in my personal life and my wife’s private life.

In addition to being instrumental in our marriage, she guided us with her struggle with her pen and words in the darkest period of our country.

Above: Emine Erdoğan and Michelle Obama

Recep Erdoğan holds a grudge.

The 15 July 2016 coup d’état attempt (15 Temmuz darbe girişimi) was attempted in Turkey against state institutions, including the government and President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan. 

Above: Anti-coup demonstrators, Kizilay Square, Ankara

The attempt was carried out by a faction within the Turkish Armed Forces that organized themselves as the Peace at Home Council.

Above: Logo of the Turkish SAT Commandos who attacked the hotel where the President was staying

They attempted to seize control of several places in Ankara, Istanbul, Marmaris, and elsewhere, such as the Asian side entrance of the Bosphorus Bridge, but failed to do so after forces loyal to the state defeated them.

The Council cited an erosion of secularism, elimination of democratic rule, disregard for human rights, and Turkey’s loss of credibility in the international arena as reasons for the coup.

The government said the coup leaders were linked to the Gülen movement, which is designated as a terrorist organization by the Republic of Turkey and led by Fethullah Gülen, a Turkish businessman and scholar who lives in Pennsylvania.

The Turkish government alleged that Gülen was behind the coup (which Gülen denied) and that the United States was harbouring him.

Events surrounding the coup attempt and the purges in its aftermath reflect a complex power struggle between Islamist elites in Turkey.

Above: Fetullah Gülen

During the coup attempt, over 300 people were killed and more than 2,100 were injured.

Many government buildings, including the Turkish Parliament and the Presidential Palace, were bombed from the air. 

Above: Parliament Building, Ankara, after the coup attempt

Mass arrests followed, with at least 40,000 detained, including at least 10,000 soldiers and, for reasons that remain unclear, 2,745 judges.

15,000 education staff were also suspended and the licenses of 21,000 teachers working at private institutions were revoked after the government stated they were loyal to Gülen.

More than 77,000 people have been arrested and over 160,000 fired from their jobs, on reports of connections to Gülen.

Many reactions were against the coup attempt, both domestically and internationally.

The main opposition parties in Turkey condemned the attempt, while several international leaders — such as those of the United States, NATO, the European Union, and neighboring countries — called for “respect of the democratic institutions in Turkey and its elected officials.”

International organizations expressed themselves against the coup.

The United Nations Security Council, however, did not denounce the coup after disagreements over the phrasing of a statement.

Unlike some Middle Eastern governments that supported the coup or others that waited to see the outcome of the coup, Iran initially opposed the coup and advised Erdoğan to defeat the coup plotters.

Above: United Nations Security Council Chamber, UN Headquarters, New York City

President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan said the head of the United States Central Command, General Joseph Votel, was “siding with coup plotters“, after Votel criticized the Turkish government for arresting the Pentagon’s contacts in Turkey.

Above: Joseph Votel

In March 2017, Germany’s intelligence chief said Germany was unconvinced by Erdoğan’s statement that Fethullah Gülen was behind the failed coup attempt.

Above: Flag of Germany

The same month, the British Parliament’s Foreign Affairs Select Committee said some Gülenists were involved in the coup d’état attempt, but found no hard evidence that Fethullah Gülen masterminded the failed coup and found no evidence to justify the UK designating the Gülen movement as a “terrorist organization“.

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

On a regular basis I read of arrests of alleged FETÖ (Gülen movement) members.

Names are never given.

According to Michael Rubin, from the American Enterprise Institute (AEI), Erdoğan had himself to blame for the coup.

Following an increasingly Islamist agenda, Erdoğan had reportedly “dropped any pretense of governing for all Turks“.

After “fanning the flames” at the 2013 Gezi Park protests, he transformed the predominantly Kurdish-inhabited areas of southeastern Turkey “into a war zone reminiscent of the worst days of the 1980s“.

The biggest problem, according to Rubin, might have been Erdoğan’s foreign policy, which managed to turn the initial “no problems with neighbours” doctrine into a situation where the country has problems with almost every neighbour and has even alienated some of its allies and friends.

Above: Logo of the American Enterprise Institute

British Middle East correspondent Robert Fisk warned that:

Too late did Erdoğan realize the cost of the role he had chosen for his country.

It’s one thing to say sorry to Putin and patch up relations with Netanyahu, but when you can no longer trust your army, there are more serious matters to concentrate upon.

Even if this coup may have failed, Fisk expected another to follow in the months or years to come.

Above: Robert Fisk (1946 – 2020)

Turkish Professor Akin Ünver described the coup d’état attempt as “more of a mutiny“.

Above: Akin Ünver

During and after the events, several politicians and commentators suggested that the government knew about the coup in advance and possibly directed it.

The facts that the coup attempt began in the evening rather than at a more inconspicuous time and that the events were largely confined to Ankara and Istanbul contributed to doubts about the authenticity of the coup attempt.

Journalists and opposition politicians branded it a ‘tragic comedy‘ and ‘theatre play‘.

Advocates of such theories pointed to how Erdoğan stood to gain from the coup attempt in terms of increasing his popularity and support for his calls for an executive presidency, while being able to legitimize further crackdowns on judicial independence and the opposition in general.

Other elements that were reported to support the theory included:

  • no list of demands by the coup plotters
  • the organization and response of the police
  • the long lists of arrests that seemed to be ready surprisingly quickly (including arrests of 2,745 judges and 2,839 soldiers)
  • the obvious nature of the coup actions

Above: After coup nightly demonstrations of President Erdoğan supporters, Istanbul

Fethullah Gülen, whom Erdoğan had said as being one of the principal conspirators, commented:

I don’t believe that the world believes the accusations made by President Erdoğan.

There is a possibility that it could be a staged coup and it could be meant for further accusations against the Gülenists.

Above: The former friendship between Recep Erdoğan and Fetullah Gülen

Journalist Cengiz Çandar, a veteran observer of Turkey’s coups, said:

I have never seen any with this magnitude of such inexplicable sloppiness.

Above: Cengiz Çandar

Prominent Hizmet (Gülen movement) spokesman Alp Aslandoğan said, referencing that the Turkish Air Force commander met with Erdoğan before 15 July, that certain legal documentation related to the coup seemed written beforehand, arguing that within “the indictment written by a prosecutor on the night of 15 July to 16 July, there were events there that didn’t actually happen.

Some events did happen, but those events didn’t happen by the time the document started.

It looks like a bigger plan was there, and part of the plan did not come to pass.”

Above: Alp Aslandoğan

The organization and spontaneous synchronization by large numbers of mosques was perceived to be unachievable unless there had been prior preparation, with journalists also pointing to how Erdoğan could have strategically used the call to prayer to invoke religious sentiment in a political situation as a veiled attack on state secularism.

Thousands of arrests and purges were conducted by Turkish authorities between 16 and 18 July 2016.

The sheer number of these arrests made at such a speed could only be done so if the “Turkish government had all those lists ready“, as suggested by Johannes Hahn, European Commissioner for Enlargement and European Neighbourhood Policy, on 18 July 2016.

Hahn also said that because these lists were already available immediately after the coup, the “event was prepared” and the lists were to be used “at a certain stage“.

Above: Johannes Hahn

Several social media users have compared the coup attempt to the Reichstag fire in 1933, which Adolf Hitler used as an excuse to suspend civil liberties and order mass arrests of his opponents.

Above: Reichstag fire, Berlin, 27 February 1933

Politico correspondent Ryan Heath said that:

The coup was staged to allow Erdoğan to purge the military of opponents and increase his grip on the country“.

Heath used Twitter to share comments from his Turkish source, who called the events of Friday night a “fake coup” which would help a “fake democracy warrior” (referring to Erdoğan).

The source said:

Probably we’ll see an early election in which he’ll try to guarantee an unbelievable majority of the votes.

And this will probably guarantee another 10 to 15 years of authoritarian, elected dictatorship.

The New York Times reported that some Turkish citizens believed the coup attempt was staged by Erdoğan to improve his public image and popularity, while cracking down on political opponents and expanding his power.

Critics found it suspect that reportedly no government officials were arrested or harmed during the attempted coup, which — among other factors — raised the suspicion of a false flag event staged by the Turkish government to crack down on opposition parties.

Those in Turkey suggesting that the coup was staged are also being questioned by the government.

In early 2017 the European Union prepared an intelligence report about the coup and the subsequent purge.

The report states that Gülenists were at the core of the coup attempt, but also that the Turkish government appeared to have prepared a list of people it wanted to sack before the coup took place, which also included civil activists who had been involved with Gezi Park.

The events of 15 July 2016 handed Erdogan the chance to enact it.

The report ends:

The AKP will try to derive benefit from the attempted coup and it may even strengthen as a result of that.

In domestic politics the AKP will settle scores with its one and only real rival and parallel with this in its international ties it tries to demonstrate that it is still strong in order to create a full presidential system.”

Above: Flag of the European Union

I am not suggesting anything, merely writing what others have suggested.

There is one thing I do agree with:

The political power struggle is complex and complicated for outsiders to comprehend.

Erdoğan is no fool.

He knows how important he is and he plays on it, often pushing his allies’ buttons just to see what will happen.

He is a smart political operator who was refining his brand of populism a decade and a half before Donald Trump cottoned on.

If Western countries want to contain and control Erdoğan – as they will have to if they are to keep Turkey stable and engaged in the world – then they first need to understand him.

More than that, they need to understand why so many Turks adore him.

I have yet to encounter anyone who openly supports Erdoğan in the liberal minded city of Eskişehir.

Some criticisms I have heard:

He is charismatic.

He has a natural talent for speaking.

He knows how to manipulate masses, by using the media, ruling through fear.

Some say he lies constantly, so big and so often that it is almost impossible to understand how he can get away with it.

(It is said that there are videos showing his countless lies, but I have yet to see them.)

His critics say he is corrupted, that he cheats and steals, loves money, that he is very rich – maybe one of the richest people in the world.

(Erdogan lives in a thousand-room palace complex, Ak Saray (White Palace), that he built almost immediately on becoming President.

Despite his constant harping on about his working class roots and his apparent championing of the underdog against the elites, his wife and daughters dress in haute couture from the most famous fashion houses in Europe.)

Erdoğan has undertaken a media campaign that attempts to portray the presidential family as frugal and simple-living.

Their palace electricity bill is estimated at $500,000 per month.

Above: Ak Saray, Ankara

Above: First Lady Emine Erdoğan

Above: Esra Erdoğan

Above: Sümeyye Erdoğan

Some say that the economy is dying, that at the beginning of his reign he benefited from the dollar expansion era, but he wasted all these investments by burying them in concrete.

Some say that education is almost dead, that PISA (Programme for International Student Assessment) results are proof of this.

(Out of 79 countries tested in 2018, Turkey ranks #43 in mathematics, and #40 in science and reading.)

Above: PISA average mathematics score, 2018

Critics say he doesn’t want education to get better, because ignorance is his lifeblood.

Opponents say Erdoğan can’t stand free speech, that he hates the very few people he can’t buy or intimidate and will try to eliminate them.

Some call him a cruel tyrant, that prisons are full of innocent people, that torture is a norm now in prisons, that he has ruined the lives of hundreds of thousands of people, that he has blood of many people on his hands (including his innocent supporters who died on 15 July needlessly).

His critics fear that if he needs to, he will let Turkey sink into the ground, if that is the only way he can go on ruling.

They say he ruined the country, that he is the biggest disaster that has ever happened to Turks.

Above: Erdoğan

My only question to this barrage of criticism against him is who, pray tell, could replace him.

Here I am met with silence.

And what of those who support him, why is he loved by 52% of voters?

  • He promises huge investments to his voters (bridges, airports, subways, underwater tunnels etc.) and he generally makes them happen. These huge investments do affect people’s daily lives and make them proud of their country. One of the most important is probably the thousands of kilometers of new freeways which have considerably improved mobility.
  • He played a vital role in giving Turkish public religious freedom. Previous administrations restricted religious practices by closing prayer rooms in schools and government organizations. Headscarves were banned in schools and other institutions. There is now freedom of choice, among many other religious opportunities, and that is a huge advancement in the eyes of religious Turkish people.
  • Average income has increased considerably under his administration.
  • Inflation rate has decreased.
  • Research and development funds increased many folds and in return many national high technology products emerged especially in defense industries, which in turn created a lot of jobs.
  • Under his administration, getting student loans and staying in public dormitories became easier for higher education.
  • Many huge cluster housing projects were built for people with low income levels, which turned them into home owners while paying monthly fees almost as much as rent.
  • Kurdish is now a free language. There are publicly and privately owned TV and radio stations in Kurdish. He embraced Kurdish people as equal citizens not only in rhetoric but also in practice.
  • He is a strong advocate of a new Constitution where the old one is seen as the Constitution of coups by the people who vote him.
  • He is one of the first politicians to discuss presidential system in Turkey where people are sick of incapable and weak governments of the past.
  • Although others see him as a threat to their lifestyle, people who vote for him who were in some way or other oppressed by the state previously see him as the guarantor of their freedom.
  • When anti-Erdoğan people attack him (especially when there are insults) his voters tend to defend him, because he is the politician they elected and all they can do is to keep on electing him.

  • The “feeling” his supporters had towards seeing him as the guardian of their freedom turned out to be true. He seems to have saved not only his supporters’ but the whole nation’s freedom by standing against the coup and defending democracy. He risked his life for the nation’s freedom and following him people sacrificed their lives for freedom, democracy, and sovereignty.
  • Turkey is totally disappointed about the Western standpoint related with the coup. Democracy was saved but the West is sorry that the coup failed. Now all that the people of Turkey can think of is the hypocrisy of the West, whom were once considered friends and even allies. Erdoğan seems to be the only person stating this clear disappointment with high volume.
  • With his single command, people were ready to sacrifice their lives for the values he represents. They stood against tanks for the freedom of their country.

Turkey mostly has conservative people and Erdoğan’s ideology is also conservative.

First of all, he is a Muslim and people see him when he prays, recites the Quran and uses Islamic terms as an Imam would.

Religion is an important factor in Turkey that affects people, because people contribute their hearts to it.

Perhaps Turkish people are not very diligent with praying, but they still have a strong relationship with Islam.

How Erdoğan uses Islam, correct or not, is really effective on people.

Above: The Qur’an

He is a really good speaker.

He uses gestures and mimicry very well with his effective voice and speaking capability.

He sometimes recites poems which are usually spiritual and patriotic.

Especially if he speaks against West countries, people define him as “brave and fearless“.

Conservative people really like these kind of actions and Erdogan does this very well.

As forementioned, Erdoğan made a lot of new roads, hospitals and schools and gave more rights to religious people.

Many people are satisfied by these actions.

Most of the media supports Erdoğan and shows him as a hero.

It doesn’t matter he is wrong or right, the media (newspapers, TV channels) shows Erdoğan is right.

In Turkish Republican history, Turkey had many crises and was managed very badly by coalitions for a long time.

People lived in poverty and waited in lines to buy bread.

Now most of the media reminds people of that time and say that if you don’t select Erdogan, we will go back to the troubles of those years

By using opposites of Erdoğan, he gets a lot of support.

Another effect of the media is that they always show that Turkey is very powerful and will be more powerful in the future with Erdoğan.

The pain of the past and the fear of the future are the media’s power.

Politicians and journalists who were skeptical of the authenticity of the coup plot said that in reality, a ‘civil coup‘ had effectively been staged against the Armed Forces and Judiciary, both of which were extensively purged of stated Gülen supporters by the government shortly after the events.

Skeptics said that the coup would be used as an excuse for further erosion of judicial independence and a crackdown on the opposition, giving the AKP greater and unstoppable power over all state institutions and paving the way for a more radical Islamist agenda at odds with the founding principles of the Turkish Republic.

Justice Minister Bekir Bozdağ said in late July 2016 that Turkish social media users who said the government was staging the coup faced investigation:

Just look at the people who are saying on social media that this was theatre.

Public prosecutors are already investigating them.

Most of them are losers who think it is an honour to die for Fethullah Gülen’s command.

Above: Bekir Bozdağ

On 12 July 2017, the Stockholm Center for Freedom, a monitoring group with reported links to the Hizmet movement that tracks Turkey, published a controversial 181-page report stating that President Erdoğan in fact orchestrated the coup bid as a false flag to consolidate his powers, set up his opposition for a mass persecution, and push Turkish Armed Forces into a military incursion into Syria.

According to the report, it uncovered new evidence from 11 July 2016, four days before the planned coup bid, that a secret plan was circulated among select group of Armed Forces to give an appearance of a coup attempt.

The plan was sanctioned by intelligence and military chiefs with the approval of Erdoğan.

It is worth noticing that Recep Tayyip Erdoğan between the years 2002 to 2013 is different from the Recep Tayyip Erdoğan we have been seeing from 2014 to the present.

  • In the first era he adopted a very democratic, moderate and reconciliatory approach. He greatly expanded liberties and tried to solve the Kurdish problem in order to join the EU. He was a Prime Minister for all Turks.
  • In the second era his style started becoming authoritarian and paranoid, and started using a right-wing populist sentiment and an Us-versus-Them narrative. He only appointed very trusted cronies close to him instead of technocrats and started making vital decisions stubbornly on his own. After the coup attempt, he fired and jailed hundreds of thousands of government employees and journalists who had no role in the operation. He has also committed blunders in foreign policy.

With that being said, Erdoğan has enjoyed the support of at least half of Turks.

He is especially popular among conservative Anatolians who feel they have been intentionally ignored and failed by the pre-Erdoğan ultra-secular governments.

The problem is most Western media outlets are very biased against Erdoğan when they report on the situation in Turkey.

You have to be fair when judging someone and you cannot talk about how autocratic Erdoğan has become without mentioning the achievements that he has made.

You have to mention the good and the bad.

The media likes to overlook the fact that Erdoğan has transformed and revolutionized Turkey during his 15+ years in power.

Love him or hate him, he gets things done:

  • National nominal GDP under Recep Tayyip Erdoğan almost quadrupled, from $250 billion in 2001 to $850 billion in 2018.
  • GDP per capita increased almost three fold, from almost $4,000 in 2001 to almost $11,000 in 2018.
  • Erdoğan turned Turkey into an industrial and export-oriented powerhouse. Large Turkish firms may have been there before Erdoğan but they have never had this smooth business climate. Many Turkish brands are now known and trusted abroad.
  • He brought great economic prosperity to cities in inner Anatolia, such as Gaziantep, Konya and Kayseri, which had been overlooked for too long by previous governments.

Above: Konya

  • He brought political stability to Turkey where, in the 1990s, even the strongest coalition government had barely lasted for 2 years.
  • In contrast to the weak and inefficient coalition governments in the 90s, the AKP excelled in providing public services such us utilities and garbage collecting.
  • Patient satisfaction in Turkish public hospitals has recently hit a new high as a result of the great investments in the healthcare sector made by the AKP governments. Hospitals were in dismal condition in the 1990s when people waited for long hours to seek treatment.
  • Yes, a few megaprojects built by Erdoğan could be white elephants, but you cannot deny that he made great investments with regards to the transportation network. New highways. New high-speed rail network. Number of airports doubled under his reign. All constructed by Turkish companies with Turkish personnel.
  • Istanbul has been turned into an international logistics hub. Turkish Airlines is one of the most well-known airlines in the world today with the most extensive network.

  • More than 40 million tourists come to Turkey every year which provides opportunity to millions of Turks. Great hotels and other facilities have been built as a result of the economic prosperity.
  • Fought very hard to allow headscarfed women to freely attend colleges and universities and enter the workforce. That is not Islamization. It is a very rational move. What is irrational is leaving these women with no education and no jobs because of what they wear.

The economy of Turkey is an emerging market economy, as defined by the International Monetary Fund (IMF).

Turkey is defined by economists and political scientists as one of the world’s newly industrialized countries.

With a population of 83.4 million as of 2021, Turkey has the world’s 20th largest nominal GDP, and the 11th largest GDP by PPP.

The country is among the world’s leading producers of agricultural products, textiles, motor vehicles, transportation equipment, construction materials, consumer electronics and home appliances.

High inflation is a problem.

Over the past 20 years, there have been major developments in the economic and social aspects of Turkey’s economy.

There have been increases in employment and income since 2000.

Turkey has recently slowed down in its economic progress, due to significant changes in external and internal factors and a reduction in Turkey’s economic reforms.

Environmentalists have said the economy is too dependent on construction.

Turkey is a founding member of the OECD (1961) and the G-20 major economies (1999).

Above: Logo of the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development

Above: Map of the G-20 – Member countries in red / Countries represented through membership in the European Union in purple / Permanently invited countries in yellow

Since 1995, Turkey is a party to the European Union – Turkey Customs Union.

The CIA classifies Turkey as a developed country.

Turkey is often classified as a newly industrialized country by economists and political scientists. 

Merrill Lynch, the World Bank and The Economist describe Turkey as an emerging market economy.

The World Bank classifies Turkey as an upper-middle income country in terms of the country’s per capita GDP in 2007. 

According to Eurostat data, Turkish GDP per capita adjusted by purchasing power standards stood at 64% of the EU average in 2018.

Turkey’s labour force participation rate of 56.1% is by far the lowest of the OECD states which have a median rate of 74%.

2017 was the second consecutive year that saw more than 5.000 high net-worth individuals (HNWIs, defined as holding net assets of at least $1 million) leaving Turkey, reasons given as government crackdown on the media deterring investment, and the loss of currency value against the US dollar.

A longstanding characteristic of the Turkish economy is a low savings rate.

Under the government of Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, Turkey has been running huge and growing current account deficits, reaching $7.1 billion by January 2018, while the rolling 12-month deficit rose to $51.6 billion, one of the largest current account deficits in the world.

The economy has relied on capital inflows to fund private-sector excess, with Turkey’s banks and big firms borrowing heavily, often in foreign currency.

Under these conditions, Turkey must find about $200 billion a year to fund its wide current account deficit and maturing debt, always at risk of inflows drying up, having gross foreign currency reserves of just $85 billion.

Turkey has been meeting the “60% EU Maastricht criteria” for government debt stock since 2004.

(The euro convergence criteria (also known as the Maastricht criteria) are the criteria which European Union member states are required to meet to enter the third stage of the Economic and Monetary Union (EMU) and adopt the euro as their currency.)

Similarly, from 2002 to 2011, the budget deficit decreased from more than 10% to less than 3%, which is one of the EU Maastricht criteria for the budget balance.

In January 2010, international credit rating agency Moody’s Investor Service upgraded Turkey’s rating one notch.

In 2012, credit ratings agency Fitch upgraded Turkey’s credit rating to investment grade after an 18-year gap, followed by a ratings upgrade by credit ratings agency Moody’s Investors Service in May 2013, as the service lifted Turkey’s government bond ratings to the lowest investment grade, Moody’s first investment-grade rating for Turkey in two decades and the service stated in its official statement that the nation’s “recent and expected future improvements in key economic and public finance metrics” was the basis for the ratings boost.

In March 2018, Moody’s downgraded Turkey’s sovereign debt into junk status, warning of an erosion of checks and balances under Recep Tayyip Erdoğan.

In May 2018, credit ratings agency Standard & Poor’s cut Turkey’s debt rating further into junk territory, citing widening concern about the outlook for inflation amid a sell-off in the Turkish lira currency.

Share prices in Turkey nearly doubled over the course of 2009.

On 10 May 2017, the Borsa Istanbul (BIST-100 Index), the benchmark index of Turkey’s stock market, set a new record high at 95,735 points.

As of 5 January 2018, the Index reached 116,638 points.

However, in the course of the 2018 Turkish currency and debt crisis, the Index dipped back below 100.000 in May.

In early June, the BIST-100 Index dropped to the lowest level in dollar terms since the global financial crisis in 2008.

In 2017, the OECD expected Turkey to be one of the fastest growing economies among OECD members during 2015 – 2025, with an annual average growth rate of 4.9%.

In May 2018, Moody’s Investors Service lowered its estimate for growth of the Turkish economy in 2018 from 4% to 2.5% and in 2019 from 3.5% to 2%.

According to a 2013 Financial Times Special Report on Turkey, Turkish business executives and government officials believed the quickest route to achieving export growth lies outside of traditional Western markets.

While the European Union used to account for more than half of all Turkey’s exports, by 2013 the figure was heading down toward not much more than a third.

However, by 2018 the share of exports going to the EU was back above 50%.

Turkish companies’ foreign direct investment outflow has increased by 10 times over the past 15 years, according to the 2017 Foreign Investment Index.

With policies of Recep Tayyip Erdoğan fuelling the construction sector, where many of his business allies are active, Turkey as of May 2018 had around 2 million unsold houses, a backlog worth three times average annual new housing sales.

The 2018 Turkish currency and debt crisis ended a period of growth under Erdoğan-led governments since 2003, built largely on a construction boom fueled by easy credit and government spending.

In 2018, Turkey went through a currency and debt crisis, characterised by the Turkish lira (TRY) plunging in value, high inflation, rising borrowing costs, and correspondingly rising loan defaults.

The crisis was caused by the Turkish economy’s excessive current account deficit and foreign-currency debt, in combination with the ruling Justice and Development Party’s (AKP) increasing authoritarianism and President Erdogan’s unorthodox ideas about interest rate policy.

On 10 August 2018, Turkish currency lira nosedived following Trump’s tweet about doubling tariffs on Turkish steel and aluminum that day.

The currency weakened 17% that day and has lost nearly 40% of its value against the dollar till that time.

Above: Donald Trump

The crash of the lira has sent ripples through global markets, putting more pressure on the euro and increasing investors’ risk aversion to emerging-market currencies across the board. 

On 13 August, South Africa’s rand slumped nearly 10%, the biggest daily drop since June 2016.

Above: Flag of South Africa

The lira crisis spotlighted deeper concerns about the Turkish economy that have long signaled turmoil long ago.

By the end of 2018, Turkey went into recession.

The 2018 – 2022 Turkish currency and debt crisis (Türkiye döviz ve borç krizi) is an ongoing financial and economic crisis in Turkey.

It is characterized by the Turkish lira (TRY) plunging in value, high inflation, rising borrowing costs, and correspondingly rising loan defaults.

The crisis was caused by the Turkish economy’s excessive current account deficit and large amounts of private foreign-currency denominated debt, in combination with President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan’s increasing authoritarianism and his unorthodox ideas about interest rate policy.

Some analysts also stress the leveraging effects of the geopolitical frictions with the United States.

Following the detention of American pastor Andrew Brunson, who was confined of espionage charges after the failed coup attempt in Turkey, the Trump administration exerted pressure towards Turkey by imposing further sanctions.

Above: Andrew Brunson

The economic sanctions therefore doubled the tariffs on Turkey, as imported steel rises up to 50% and on aluminum to 20%.

As a result, Turkish steel was priced out of the US market, which previously amounted to 13% of Turkey’s total steel exports. 

While the crisis was prominent for waves of major depreciation of the currency, later stages were characterized by corporate debt defaults and finally by contraction of economic growth.

With the inflation rate stuck in the double digits, stagflation ensued.

The crisis ended a period of overheating economic growth under Erdoğan-led governments, built largely on a construction boom fueled by foreign borrowing, easy and cheap credit, and government spending.

After a period of modest recovery in 2020 and early 2021 amid the COVID-19 pandemic, the Turkish lira plunged to all-time lows following the replacement of Central Bank chief Naci Agbal with Sahap Kavcioglu, who slashed interest rates from 19% to 14%.

The lira lost 44% of its value in 2021 alone.

The economic crisis is believed to have caused a significant decline in Erdoğan’s and AKP’s popularity, which lost most of Turkey’s biggest cities including Istanbul and Ankara in 2019 local elections.

A longstanding characteristic of Turkey’s economy is a low savings rate.

Since Recep Tayyip Erdoğan assumed control of the government, Turkey has been running huge and growing current account deficits, $33.1 billion in 2016 and $47.3 billion in 2017, climbing to US$7.1 billion in the month of January 2018 with the rolling 12-month deficit rising to $51.6 billion, one of the largest current account deficits in the world.

The economy has relied on capital inflows to fund private sector excess, with Turkey’s banks and big firms borrowing heavily, often in foreign currencies.

Under these conditions, Turkey must find approximately $200 billion a year to fund its wide current account deficit and maturing debt, while being always at risk of inflows drying up.

The state has gross foreign currency reserves of just $85 billion.

The economic policy underlying these trends had increasingly been micro-managed by Erdoğan since the election of his Justice and Development Party (AKP) in 2002, and strongly so since 2008, with a focus on the construction industry, state-awarded contracts and stimulus measures.

Although, research and development expenditure of the country and government expenditure on education are nearly doubled during AKP governments, the desired outcomes could not be achieved. 

The motive for these policies have been described by the secretary general of the main Turkish business association, TÜSIAD, as Erdoğan losing faith in Western-style capitalism since the 2008 financial crisis.

Although not directly related in the conflict, the Turkish invasion of Afrin largely strained US – Turkish relations, and led to mass instability in Syria.

This led to global view of Turkey as an unnecessary aggressor.

Investment inflows had already been declining in the period leading up to the crisis, owing to Erdoğan instigating political disagreements with countries that were major sources of such inflows (such as Germany, France, and the Netherlands).

Following the 2016 coup attempt, the government seized the assets of those it stated were involved, even if their ties to the coup were attenuated.

Erdoğan has not taken seriously concerns that foreign companies investing in Turkey might be deterred by the country’s political instability.

Other factors include worries about the decreasing value of lira (TRY) which threatens to eat into investors’ profit margins.

Investment inflows have also declined because Erdoğan’s increasing authoritarianism has quelled free and factual reporting by financial analysts in Turkey.

Between January and May 2017, foreign portfolio investors funded $13.2 billion of Turkey’s $17.5 billion current account deficit, according to the latest available data.

During the same period in 2018, they plugged just $763 million of a swollen $27.3 billion deficit.

Turkey has experienced substantially higher inflation than other emerging markets.

In October 2017, inflation was at 11.9%, the highest rate since July 2008.

In 2018, the lira’s exchange rate accelerated deterioration, reaching a level of 4.0 TRY per USD by late March, 4.5 TRY per USD by mid-May, 5.0 TRY per USD by early August and 6.0 as well as 7.0 TRY per USD by mid-August.

Among economists, the accelerating loss of value was generally attributed to Recep Tayyip Erdoğan preventing the Central Bank of the Republic of Turkey from making the necessary interest rate adjustments.

Erdoğan, who said interest rates beyond his control to be “the mother and father of all evil“, shared unorthodox interest rate theories in a 14 May interview with Bloomberg and said that “the Central Bank can’t take this independence and set aside the signals given by the President.”

Presidential intervention with Central Bank policy comes with a general perception in international investment circles of a “textbook institutional decline” in Turkey, with Erdoğan seen increasingly reliant on politicians whose main qualifications for their jobs is loyalty, at the expense of more qualified and experienced options.

Above: Logo of the Central Bank of Turkey

Erdoğan also has a long history of voicing Islamist discourse of interest-based banking as “prohibited by Islam” and “a serious dead-end“.

He is also on record referring to interest rate increases as “treason“. 

Despite Erdoğan’s opposition, Turkey’s Central Bank made sharp interest rates increases.

The Financial Times quoted leading emerging markets financial analyst Timothy Ash analyzing that:

Turkey has strong banks, healthy public finances, good demographics, pro-business culture but has been spoiled over past four to five years by unorthodox and loose macroeconomic management.

By mid-June, analysts in London suggested that with its current government, Turkey would be well advised to seek an IMF loan even before the dwindling Central Bank foreign exchange reserves run out, because it would strengthen the Central Bank’s hand against Erdoğan and help gain back investor confidence in the soundness of Turkey’s economic policies.

Economist Paul Krugman described the unfolding crisis as “a classic currency-and-debt crisis, of a kind we’ve seen many times“, adding:

At such a time, the quality of leadership suddenly matters a great deal.

You need officials who understand what’s happening, can devise a response and have enough credibility that markets give them the benefit of the doubt.

Some emerging markets have those things and they are riding out the turmoil fairly well.

The Erdoğan regime has none of that.

Above: Paul Krugman

By the end of 2017, the corporate foreign-currency debt in Turkey had more than doubled since 2009, up to $214 billion after netting against their foreign-exchange assets.

Turkey’s gross external debt, both public and private, stood at $453.2 billion at the end of 2017.

As of March 2018, $181.8 billion of external debt, public and private, was due to mature within a year.

Non-resident holdings of domestic shares stood at $53.3 billion in early March and at $39.6 billion in mid-May, and non-resident holdings of domestic government bonds stood at $32.0 billion in early March and at $24.7 billion in mid-May.

Overall non-residents’ ownership of Turkish equities, government bonds and corporate debt has plummeted from a high of $92 billion in August 2017 to just $53 billion as of 13 July 2018.

During the emergence of the crisis, lenders in Turkey were hit by restructuring demands of corporations unable to serve their USD or EUR denominated debt, due to the loss of value of their earnings in Turkish lira.

While financial institutions had been the driver of the Istanbul stock exchange for many years, accounting for almost half its value, by mid-April they accounted for less than one-third.

By late-May, lenders were facing a surge in demand from companies seeking to reorganise debt repayments.

By early-July, public restructuring requests by some of the country’s biggest businesses alone already totalled $20,000,000,000 with other debtors not publicly listed or large enough to require disclosures. 

The asset quality of Turkish banks, as well as their capital adequacy ratio, kept deteriorating throughout the crisis.

By June, Halk Bankasi, the most vulnerable of the large lenders, had lost 63% of its US dollar value since last summer and traded at 40% of book value.

However, it is hard to say that this is mainly due to the economic developments in Turkey since the valuation of Halk Bank was largely affected by the rumors over the possible outcomes of the US investigation about the Bank’s stated help to Iran in evading US sanctions.

Banks continuously heightened interest rates for business and consumer loans and mortgage loan rates, towards 20% annually, thus curbing demand from businesses and consumers.

With a corresponding growth in deposits, the gap between total deposits and total loans, which had been one of the highest in emerging markets, began to narrow.

Nevertheless, this development has also led to incomplete or unoccupied housing and commercial real estate littering the outskirts of Turkey’s major cities, as Erdoğan’s policies had fuelled the construction sector, where many of his business allies are very active, to lead past economic growth.

In March 2018, home sales fell 14% and mortgage sales declined 35% compared to a year earlier.

As of May, Turkey had around 2,000,000 unsold houses, a backlog three times the size of the average annual number of new housing sales.

In the first half of 2018, unsold stock of new housing kept increasing, while increases in new home prices in Turkey were lagging consumer price inflation by more than 10 percentage points.

While heavy portfolio capital outflows persisted, $883,000,000 in June, with official foreign exchange reserves declining by a $6,990,000,000 during June, the current account deficit started narrowing in June, due to the weakened exchange rate for the lira.

This was perceived as a sign of getting balanced economy. 

The Turkish lira started recover its losses as of September 2018 and the current account deficit continued to shrink.

As a consequence of the earlier monetary policy of easy money, any newfound fragile short-term macroeconomic stability is based on higher interest rates, thus creating a recessionary effect for the Turkish economy.

In mid-June, the Washington Post carried the quote from a senior financial figure in Istanbul that “years of irresponsible policies have overheated the Turkish economy.

High inflation rates and current account deficits are going to prove sticky.

I think we are at the end of our rope.

Let us be frank here.

Erdoğan worries the world, worries his nation.

As a resident Canadian in Eskişehir, I have rarely heard praise for the man, except in the media.

Above: Küçük Camlica TV tower, Istanbul

The mass media in Turkey includes a wide variety of domestic and foreign periodicals expressing disparate views, and domestic newspapers are extremely competitive.

However, media ownership is concentrated in the hands of a few large private media groups which are typically part of wider conglomerates controlled by wealthy individuals, which limits the views that are presented.

In addition, the companies are willing to use their influence to support their owners’ wider business interests, including by trying to maintain friendly relations with the government.

The media exert a strong influence on public opinion. 

Censorship in Turkey is also an issue.

In the 2000s Turkey has seen many journalists arrested and writers prosecuted.

Above: Turkish journalists protesting the imprisonment of their colleagues, 10 December 2016

On Reporters Without Borders’ Press Freedom Index, Turkey has fallen from being ranked around 100 in 2005 to around 150 in 2013.

Above: Logo of Reporters sans frontières (Reporters Without Borders)

In reaction to the failed coup d’état on 15 July 2016, over 150 media organisations, including newspapers, television and radio channels, news agencies, magazines and publishing houses, have been closed by the government of Turkey, and 160 journalists have been jailed.

Above: 15 July Monument, Presidential Palace, Ankara

Turkish consumers are the second-most media illiterate when compared to countries in Europe, leaving them especially vulnerable to fake news, according to a 2018 study.

A combination of low education levels, low reading scores, low media freedom and low societal trust went into making the score, which saw Turkey being placed second lowest only to North Macedonia.

Above: Flag of North Macedonia

Conspiracy theories are a prevalent phenomenon in Turkish media. 

According to the Reuters Institute Digital News Report 2018, Turkey by far is the country with the most made-up news reports in the world.

Since 2011, the AKP government has increased restrictions on freedom of speech, freedom of the press and Internet use, and television content, as well as the right to free assembly.

It has also developed links with media groups, and used administrative and legal measures (including, in one case, a billion lira tax fine) against critical media groups and critical journalists:

Over the last decade the AKP has built an informal, powerful, coalition of party-affiliated businessmen and media outlets whose livelihoods depend on the political order that Erdogan is constructing.

Those who resist do so at their own risk.

Above: NTV live broadcasting van protested by the protesters in Istanbul on 1 June 2013 for not televising the protests, but taking the side of the suppressive Recep Tayyip Erdoğan’s government. “For sale from the owner” “Ferit Sahenk (owner of NTV) loves Tayyip (Tayyip Erdoğan, Prime Minister of Turkey)” “Honour-less” “Media for sale

These behaviours became particularly prominent in 2013 in the context of the Turkish media coverage of the 2013 protests in Turkey.

The BBC noted that while some outlets are aligned with the AKP or are personally close to Erdogan:

Most mainstream media outlets – such as TV news channels HaberTurk and NTV, and the major centrist daily Milliyet – are loth to irritate the government because their owners’ business interests at times rely on government support.

All of these have tended to steer clear of covering the demonstrations.”

Few channels provided live coverage – one that did was Halk TV.

During its 12-year rule, the ruling AKP has gradually expanded its control over media.

Today, numerous newspapers, TV channels and Internet portals, also dubbed Yandaş Medya (“slanted media“) or Havuz Medyası (“pool media“), continue their heavy pro-government propaganda.

Several media groups receive preferential treatment in exchange for AKP-friendly editorial policies.

Some of these media organizations were acquired by AKP-friendly businesses through questionable funds and processes.

Media not friendly to AKP, on the other hand, are threatened with intimidation, inspections and fines.

These media group owners face similar threats to their other businesses. 

An increasing number of columnists have been fired for criticizing the AKP leadership.

Leaked telephone calls between high ranking AKP officials and businessmen indicate that government officials collected money from businessmen in order to create a “pool media” that will support the AKP government at any cost.

Arbitrary tax penalties are assessed to force newspapers into bankruptcy — after which they emerge, owned by friends of the President.

According to an investigation by Bloomberg, Erdoğan forced a sale of the once independent daily Sabah to a consortium of businessmen led by his son-in-law.

The state-run Anadolu Agency and the Turkish Radio and Television Corporation have also been criticized by media outlets and opposition parties, for acting more and more like a mouthpiece for the ruling AKP, a stance in stark violation of their requirement as public institutions to report and serve the public in an objective way.

Above: Logo of the Turkish Radio and Television Corporation

With the AKP controlling the public opinion forum it is unlikely that Erdoğan will lose future elections.

Nor is it likely that a coup d’état will again be attempted without public support.

Some folks have suggested to me that his re-election could lead to civil war, but this is a scenario I do not envision.

For revolution needs a figurehead and in the echo chamber that is Turkey the voice of Erdoğan is all that one hears.

Give the devil his due, prior to 2012, Erdoğan had my respect and the respect of the world.

But his international involvements have often alienated the nation and his handling of dissent has alarmed many by the authoritarian manner by which he has maintained power.

His handling of the Turkish economy has shown him to be a short-term thinker at best and a leader pretending economic savvy he does not possess at worst.

The question now remains how will Turkey let go of Erdoğan and will Erdoğan let Turkey go its own way without him.

No one believes he will go quietly.

This song does not end here.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Hannah Lucinda Smith, Erdoğan Rising: A Warning to Europe / Hürriyet Daily News, 1 March 2022

Canada Slim and the Pharmacy of the Soul

Eskişehir, Turkey, Monday 18 April 2022 AD (18 Nisan 5782 AM) (18 Ramadan 1443 AH) (18 Pasar 2022 CE)

Despite this being Easter Monday (Christian calendar), the 18th day of Nisan (Jewish Passover) and the 18th day of Ramadan, religion is not a divisive issue in this city.

Generally, some fast and others feast.

Some pray and others pass the time going about their lives as if this month is merely just one of twelve in the year.

Above: Praying hands, Albrecht Dürer

To know a person’s religion we need not listen to his profession of faith but must find his brand of tolerance.

Eric Hoffer (1902 – 1993)

It is easy to be dismissive of religion, the pomp and pagentry, the ceremony and sanctimony, the folks that violate the tenets of faith in the name of that faith.

It is easy to dismiss the possibility of God whose only true proof of existence is our inability to disprove His existence.

And yet despite the faithless, despite the hypocrisy of some, despite the death, deceit and destruction committed in His Name by those unrecognizable as believers despite the masks they wear, I cannot but acknowledge the true purpose of faith, the real reason for religion, which is encapsulated in one single solitary word:

Hope.

We hope that our lives have meaning.

We hope that the pain and sorrow and suffering may lead to dignity.

We hope that we are not alone in this valley of the shadow of death.

We hope that death has meaning beyond ourselves, in spite of ourselves.

We hope that those who harm and hurt and harass others will be meted that which they dealt.

We hope that the love we shared with others will sustain us, perhaps even beyond this mortal coil.

Of the three Abrahamic religions, Judaism offers an eternal Promised Land, Islam suggests that a good person leaves behind a legacy of continuing charity and an inheritance of knowledge and a testament of righteous offspring worthy of the name, and Christianity suggests that there is a promise of an afterlife and that resurrection beyond longevity is possible.

We hope our lives have meaning.

We hope our deaths can be faced with dignity and daring.

We hope that who we are was not for naught.

And for all its flaws, for all its phonies, for all its unclarity and uncertainty and a myriad of interpretations, religion, faith, in ourselves, in desperate quest of destinies too wonderful for dreams, faith gives us all the only thing that matters:

Hope.

When you’ve fallen on the highway
And you’re lying in the rain,
And they ask you how you’re doing
Of course you’ll say you can’t complain
If you’re squeezed for information,
That’s when you’ve got to play it dumb
You just say you’re out there waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

Waiting for the Miracle“, Leonard Cohen (1934 – 2016)

I never want to be a man who steals hope.

That being said, how can anyone, such as I, sitting on the outside, possibly understand the deeper meaning of the reality of a religion if they have not personally lived it?

The answer, I have been assured by believers I have known, is personal.

Their moment of realization is beyond words.

Faith, by its very nature, is elusive.

Talk to me about the truth of religion and I will listen gladly.

Talk to me about the duty of religion and I will listen submissively.

But don’t come talking to me about the consolations of religion or I shall suspect that you don’t understand.

C. S. Lewis

Above: Clive Staples Lewis (1898 – 1963)

Here in Eskişehir, Turkey is celebrating Ramadan, a month of fasting, prayer, reflection and community.

In a religious life where faith, politics and culture are arguably more inextricably linked in any other religion, there are bound to be differences of opinion and controversial beliefs.

Essential truths can be either vaguely known, interpreted variously or just plain misunderstood.

Above: Halisi Cami (mosque), Eskişehir, Turkey

There is no reason to bring religion into it.

I think we ought to have as great a regard for religion as we can, so as to keep it out of as many things as possible.

Sean O’Casey

Above: Sean O’Casey (1880 – 1964)

The closest I have come to understanding faith in 2022 has been visits to St. Gallen, where today “half-assed Christians” (a term coined by a Catholic priest I once knew) will, for the first of only two annual visits to church – the other occasion being Christmas – will commemorate events two millennia past of a man who claimed to be the Son of God, preached and did all manner of miracles, was crucified as an enemy of the state, was resurrected and ascended to Heaven and will one day return to save the chosen few.

It is a nice story, difficult to prove, difficult to disprove.

It is a question of faith.

What do you choose to believe?

Above: Latin cross, a symbol of Christianity

It is in St. Gallen (among other places) where my faith – such as it is – finds its foundation, a harmony to my heart.

But this post is less a glorification of God as it is a monument to man, for much of the past decade found me working in St. Gallen and it is the people I have known there (and elsewhere) that have given me faith in humanity.

Perhaps the time has come to finally express my gratitude and to sing praises.

Above: Aerial view of St. Gallen, Switzerland

Sometimes I wonder if the manner in which Christianity was introduced to Switzerland is the reason why some Swiss view other faiths as so threatening to the fabric of Swiss life.

St. Gallen’s past may be a prime example of why the Swiss fear other religions following the examples of history.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Religion to me has always been the wound, not the bandage.”

Dennis Potter

Above: Dennis Potter (1935 – 1994)

The main urban centre of eastern Switzerland, St. Gallen has been described as “a relaxed provincial city set amid rolling countryside between the Appenzell hills and the Lake of Constance (Bodensee), with a beautiful old quarter“.

I agree with this description save for one word:

Relaxed.

Above: Klosterviertel (cloister quarter), Altstadt (old city), St. Gallen, Switzerland

I lived in Switzerland for a decade and much of that period was spent working in St. Gallen either as a teacher or as a barista.

Neither position was relaxing.

Above: Panoramic view of St. Gallen

As the wife and I lived in Landschlacht, a mere 15 km from the German border, we were more likely to spend our free time in Konstanz due to its closer proximity and lower costs.

Above: Landschlacht, Switzerland

St. Gallen has meant, for the most part, work, work and more work.

This is not to say that I did not make any friends during my employment there nor would I say that there weren’t some moments when I, alone or accompanied by the wife, would travel to St. Gallen for leisure activities, such as theatres, restaurants and museums.

It is nonetheless a mistake to label St. Gallen as relaxed, for it is a Swiss city, and relaxing is not something at which the Swiss generally excel.

Above: St. Gallen

The centrepiece of St. Gallen is its extraordinarily lavish Baroque abbey, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Above: Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

All the sweetness of religion is conveyed to the world by the hands of storytellers and image makers.

Without their fictions the truths of religion would for the multitude be neither intelligible nor even apprehensible.

Prophets would prophesy and the teachers teach in vain.

George Bernard Shaw

Above: George Bernard Shaw (1856 – 1950)

This has always struck me as an odd notion.

If God exists and is the Creator of all that is, why in Heaven’s name would He need to be celebrated in a lavish enclosure?

Nothing man can construct can ever compare with the majesty of nature.

If God exists then He cannot nor should not be contained with the confines of a cathedral or a Camii. (Turkish: mosque)

I have often said that within the confines of a city it is difficult to believe in God.

In the expanse of nature it is difficult to doubt that God doesn’t exist.

I think that lavish religious structures are never about glorifying God as much as they are for showing off the wealth of the community.

Do we build these magnificent temples for God’s glory?

Or for ours?

Above: Interior of the Abbey Cathedral

The Cathedral is impressive enough and serves as an ever present reminder that the city owes its name to the religious community that remains at its core.

This giant Baroque building is unmissable, its twin towers visible from most points.

Above: Kloster St. Gallen, 1769

Designed by Peter Thumb from Bregenz (Austria), it was completed in 1797 after just 12 years’ work.

Above: Peter Thumb (1681 – 1767)

Access is through the west door, although it is worth making your way around the church and looking at the outside from the enclosed Klosterhof (cloister yard), at the heart of the complex, where you can gaze up at the soaring east facade.

The interior is vast, a broad, brightly lit basilica with a triple-aisled nave and central cupola.

Although not especially high, the Cathedral has a sense of huge depth and breadth.

From the sandstone of the floor and the wood of the pews, fancy light-green stuccowork – characteristic of churches in the Konstanz region – draws your eye up the massive double-width pillars to the array of frescoes on the ceiling, which are almost entirely the work of one artist, Josef Wannenmacher.

The central cupola shows Paradise with the Holy Trinity, apostles and saints.

Above: Rotunda, Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

(“And the three men I admire the most

The Father, Son and the Holy Ghost

They took the last train for the coast

The day the music died“)

Don McLean

Details throughout the rest of the Cathedral are splendid:

  • the ornate choir screen
  • the richly-carved walnut-wood confessionals
  • the intricate choir stalls
  • at the back at the choir, the high altar flanked by black marble columns with gold trim

The south altar features a bell brought by Gall(us) on his 7th-century journey from Ireland.

Above: Inside the Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

Gall’s origin is a matter of dispute.

It is all a matter of what you choose to believe.

According to his 9th-century biographers in Reichenau, he was from Ireland and entered Europe as a companion of Columbanus (Columba).

Above: St. Peter and St. Paul Church, Reichenau Island, Germany

The Irish origin of the historical Gall was called into question by Gerrold Hilty (2001), who proposed it as more likely that he was from the Vosges or Alsace region.

Max Schär (2010) proposed that Gall may have been of Irish descent but born and raised in the Alsace.

Above: (in red) Location of the Alsace region, France

According to the 9th-century hagiographies, Gall as a young man went to study at Bangor Abbey.

The monastery at Bangor had become renowned throughout Europe as a great centre of Christian learning.

Above: Bangor Abbey, Northern Ireland

Studying in Bangor at the same time as Gall was Columbanus, who with 12 companions, set out about the year 589.

Gall and his companions established themselves with Columbanus at first at Luxeuil in Gaul.

Above: Bobbio Abbey (Italy) stained glass image of Columbanus (543 – 615)

Above: Cloister area, Luxeuil Abbey, France

In 610, Columbanus was exiled by leaders opposed to Christianity and fled with Gall to Alemannia. 

Due to dynastic conflicts between Theuderic II (587 – 613) and his brother Theudebert II (585 – 612), Columbanus lost support in the Frankish Empire and had to leave Luxeuil. 

The further missionary journey led the community around Columban from Metz up the Rhine and via Zürich and Tuggen finally via Arbon to Bregenz. 

Above: Metz, France

Above: Altstadt Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Tuggen, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

In Bregenz, as in Arbon, they met a Christian community that had partially returned to paganism. 

Gall preached in the Alemannic language, in contrast to Columbanus, who did not speak it. 

Here, and before that in Tuggen, the religious people destroyed the statues of the local deities and threw them into the lake. 

As a result, these messengers of the faith antagonized some of the inhabitants, who complained to their Duke Gunzo. 

Two monks were killed after being ambushed.

(They were chasing a missing cow into the forest.)

The founding of a monastery in Bregenz failed and Columbanus traveled on to Bobbio in Italy in 612 to found a monastery at the invitation of the Lombard prince.

Above: Alemannia (orange) and Upper Burgundy (green), circa 1000 CE

Above: Bobbio, Italy

When Columbanus, Gall and their companions left Ireland for mainland Europe, they took with them learning and the written word.

Their effect on the historical record was significant as the books were painstakingly reproduced on vellum by monks across Europe.

Many of the Irish texts destroyed in Ireland during Viking raids were preserved in abbeys across the Channel.

Gall accompanied Columbanus on his voyage up the Rhine River to Bregenz, but when in 612 Columbanus travelled on to Italy from Bregenz, Gall had to remain behind due to illness and was nursed at Arbon.

Above: Columbanus and Gall on Lake Constance (Bodensee)

Above: Course of the Rhine River

Above: A view of modern Bregenz, Austria

Above: A view of modern Arbon, Switzerland

Gall remained in Alemannia, where, with several companions, he led the life of a hermit in the forests southwest of Lake Constance, near the source of the River Steinach.

Above: Steinach River, Mühlegg Gorge, St. Gallen

Cells were soon added for twelve monks whom Gall carefully instructed.

Gall was soon known in Switzerland as a powerful preacher.

When the See of Constance became vacant, the clergy who assembled to elect a new Bishop were unanimously in favour of Gall.

He, however, refused, pleading that the election of a stranger would be contrary to Church law.

Some time later, in the year 625, on the death of Eustasius, Abbott of Luxeuil, a monastery founded by Columbanus, members of that community were sent by the monks to request Gall to undertake the government of the monastery.

He refused to quit his life of solitude, and undertake any office of rank which might involve him in the cares of the world.

He was then an old man.

He died at the age of 95, circa 650, in Arbon.

His grave became a site of pilgrimage.

The supposed day of his death, 16 October, is still commemorated as Gallus Day.

Above: Gall, Tuggen coat of arms

From as early as the 9th century the fantastically embroidered Life of Saint Gallus was circulated.

Prominent was the story in which Gall delivered Fridiburga from a demon by which she was possessed.

Fridiburga was the betrothed of Sigibert III, King of the Franks, who had granted an estate at Arbon (which belonged to the royal treasury) to Gall so that he might found a monastery there.

Fridiburga was the daughter of the Alemannic Duke Gunzo. 

She was engaged to the Merovingian King Sigibert III (638 – 656), but she fell seriously ill shortly before the wedding. 

According to the Life of St. Gallus, Sigibert sent two bishops with rich gifts to Fridiburga to free her from the demon of illness, but in vain. 

Shortly afterwards, when Gall came to Überlingen, site of the Duke’s court, he healed Fridiburga. 

Above: Überlingen, Germany

She was then taken to Metz, where she was taken from the royal palace to the church of St. Stephen. 

On the advice of the bishops, Sigibert renounced his marriage to Fridiburga and then married Chimnechild in 646. 

Fridiburga lived as a nun in the Metz monastery of St. Peter, where she would became its abbess.

Above: Church of Saint Pierre aux Nonnains, Metz, France

Circa 612, Gall was, according to the lore, travelling south from the Bodensee into the forest.

Legend has it that Gall either fell over, or stumbled into, a briar patch.

After a long stay in Arbon, Gall decided in 612, together with the deacon Hiltibod of Arbon, to follow the Steinach River, which flows into Lake Constance

They moved along the stream into the Arbon forest – the whole area from Lake Constance to Appenzellerland was primeval forest at the time – and came to the waterfall at the Mühleggschlucht (mill slope canyon) gorge. 

Here Gall stumbled and fell into a thorn bush. 

He interpreted this as a divine sign to stay here. 

Above: Beginning of Mühleggschlucht Gorge near St. Georgen, Switzerland

Many depictions of Gall are therefore subtitled with the Latin Vulgate Bible verse:

Haec requies mea in saeculum saeculi.

Hic habitabo quoniam elegi eam.

(This is my resting place forever. 

I want to live here because I like it.)

Psalm 132: 14

Above: 8th century Vulgate Bible

Above: St. Gall and the founding of the monastery

Gall was sitting one evening warming his hands at a fire.

A bear emerged from the woods and charged.

The holy man rebuked the bear, so awed by his presence it stopped its attack and slunk off to the trees.

There it gathered firewood before returning to share the heat of the fire with Gall.

The legend says that for the rest of his days Gall was followed around by his companion the bear.

Images of Gall typically represent him standing with a bear.

Above: St. Gall with a bear

So either clumsiness or a trained bear led Gall to feel that he had received a sign from God – It’s nice that God has someone to communicate with. – and so chose the site to build his hermitage.

I guess nothing says security and sanctity more than accidental briar patches and firewood-fetching bears.

Above: Lyrics from “One of Us“, Joan Osborne

Afterwards, the people venerated Gall as a saint and prayed at his tomb for his intercession in times of danger.

After his death, a small church was erected, which developed into the Abbey of St. Gall, the nucleus of the Canton of St. Gallen.

The city of St. Gallen originated as an adjoining settlement of the Abbey.

Above: Plaque in honour of Gall, St. Gallen

Following Gall’s death, Charles Martel (688 – 741) had Othmar (689 – 759) appointed as custodian of St Gall’s relics.

Above: Charles Martel (688 – 741)

Othmar was of Alemannic descent, received his education in Rhaetia (Chur), was ordained priest, and for a time presided over a church in Rhaetia (Chur).

Above: Chur Cathedral

In 720 Waltram of Thurgau appointed Othmar superior over the cell of St. Gall and custodian of St Gall’s relics.

Othmar united into a monastery the monks that lived about the cell of St. Gall, according to the Rule of St. Columban, and became their first abbot.

Above: Collegiate Church of St. Gall and St. Othmar

He added a hospital and a school, which became the foundation upon which the famous Stiftsbibliothek (Monastery library) was built.

Above: The northwest wing of the monastery district from the outside – the Abbey Library is on the first and second floor

In 747, as a part of the reform movement of Church institutions in Alamannia, he introduced the Benedictine Rule, which was to remain in effect until the secularization and closure of the monastery in 1805.

Above: The oldest copy of the Rule of Saint Benedict, from the 8th century, Bodleian Library, Oxford, England

Othmar also provided for the needs of the surrounding community, building an almshouse as well as the first leprosarium (hospice for lepers) in Switzerland.

Above: Spinalonga, Crete, one of the last leper colonies in Europe, closed in 1957

When Carloman (713 – 754) renounced his throne in 747, he visited Othmar at St. Gall and gave him a letter to his brother Pepin (714 – 768), recommending Othmar and his monastery to the King’s liberality.

Othmar personally brought the letter to Pepin, and was kindly received.

Above: Charles Martel divides the realm between Pepin and Carloman

In 759, Counts Warin and Ruodhart tried to gain possession of some property belonging to St. Gall, Othmar fearlessly resisted their demands.

Hereupon they captured him while he was on a journey to Konstanz, and held him prisoner, first at the castle of Bodmann, then on the island of Werd in the Rhine River.

Above: Werd Island

At the latter place he died, after an imprisonment of six months, and was buried.

Above: Martyrdom of St. Othmar

Othmar’s cult began to spread soon after his death.

He is one of the most popular saints in Switzerland.

In 769 his body was transferred to the Monastery of St. Gall.

As the weather was very hot, when the men rowed his body across Lake Constance (Bodensee), they became extremely thirsty.

Legends say that the only barrel of wine they had left did not become empty, regardless of how much they drank.

Therefore, the wine barrel became one of Othmar’s attributes.

His cult was officially recognized in 864 by Bishop of Konstanz Solomon I (d. 871).

Above: Othmar of St. Gallen

Interesting side note connected with Solomon I:

In 847, his diocese was the first to be disturbed by the preachings of a false prophetess named Thiota.

Above: Cathedral of Konstanz, Germany

Thiota was a heretical Christian prophetess originally from Alemannia.

In 847 she began prophesying that the world would end that year.

Her story is known from the Annales Fuldenses which records that she disturbed the diocese of Solomon before arriving in Mainz.

A large number of men and women were persuaded by her “presumption” as well as even some clerics.

In fear, many gave her gifts and sought prayers.

Finally, the bishops of Gallica Belgica ordered her to attend a synod in St Alban’s Church in Mainz.

She was eventually forced to confess that she had only made up her predictions at the urging of a priest and for lucrative gain.

She was publicly flogged and stripped of her ministry, which the Fuldensian annalist says she had taken up “unreasonably against the customs of the Church.”

Shamed, she ceased to prophesy thereafter.

Above: 11th century Carolina copy Annales Fuldenses, Humanist Library, Schlettstadt, Alsace, France
The report is open for the year 855 with the earthquake in Mainz.

In 867 Othmar was solemnly entombed in the new church of St. Othmar at St. Gall.

He is represented in art as a Benedictine abbot, generally holding a little barrel in his hand, an allusion to the alleged miracle, that a barrel of Othmar never became empty, no matter how much he took from it to give to the poor.

Above: Statue of St. Othmar

Two monks of the Abbey of St Gall, Magnus von Füssen and Theodor, founded the monasteries in Füssen and Kempten in the Allgäu region.

Above: Statue of Magnus of Füssen

Above: St. Lawrence Church, Kempten Abbey, Allgäu, Bavaria, Germany

With the increase in the number of monks the Abbey grew stronger also economically.

Much land in Thurgau, Zürichgau, and in the rest of Alemannia as far as the Neckar River was transferred to the Abbey.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

Under Abbot Waldo of Reichenau (740 – 814) copying of manuscripts was undertaken and a famous library was gathered.

Numerous Anglo-Saxon and Irish monks came to copy manuscripts here.

Above: Abbot Waldo of Reichenau meets Charlemagne

At Charlemagne’s (747 – 814) request, Pope Adrian I (700 – 795) sent distinguished chanters from Rome, who propagated the use of the Gregorian chant.

Above: 15th century miniature depicting Pope Adrian I greeting Charlemagne

In 744, the Alemannic nobleman Beata sold several properties to the Abbey in order to finance his journey to Rome.

Above: St. Peter’s Cathedral, Vatican City

In the 830s, under Abbot Gozbert (d. 850), Saint Gall became a cultural centre, as many still existing documents from his time affirm.

He paid special attention to the Abbey Library and had close ties to one of the main scribes there, Wolfcoz.

Above: Abbey Library

Wolfcoz I was a medieval scribe and painter of illuminated manuscripts, working in the scriptorium of the Abbey of Saint Gall.

He entered the monastery some time before 813.

Fourteen known documents by Wolfcoz’s hand were created between 816 and 822, including parts of the Wolfcoz Psalter and the Zürich Psalter.

In Wolfcoz’ time, the scriptorium of the Abbey entered a golden age, producing manuscripts of high quality and establishing the Abbey Library of Saint Gall as a centre of Alemannic German culture.

The Abbey Library still has three manuscripts penned by Wolfcoz. 

He developed the Allemanic minuscule and also the decoration of initials.

Above: Scribe in a scriptorium, Miracles de Notre Dame

Gozbert was the recipient (and employer?) of the Plan of Saint Gall, which was made around 820 in Reichenau.

How closely his monastery actually resembled this ideal plan is unknown. 

Above: The Carolingian monastery plan of St. Gallen is the oldest surviving architectural drawing in the West

The monastery was eventually freed from its dependence upon the Bishopric of Konstanz.

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Konstanz

King Louis the Pious confirmed in 833 the immunity of the Abbey and allowed the monks the free choice of their abbot.

Above: King Louis / Ludwig the Pious (778 – 840)

In 854, finally, the Abbey of St Gall reached its full autonomy by King Louis the German (806 – 876) releasing the Abbey from the obligation to pay tithes to the Bishop of Konstanz.

Above: Louis the German (bottom) genuflecting at Christ on the cross

From this time until the 10th century, the Abbey flourished.

It was home to several famous scholars, including Notker of Liège (940 – 1008), Notker the Stammerer (840 – 912), Notker Labeo (950 – 1022), Tuotilo (850 – 915) and Hartker (who developed the antiphonal liturgical books (choir books) for the Abbey).

Above: Notker of Liège

Above: Notker the Stammerer

Above: Notker Labeo

Above: Copy of Tuotilo’s Cod. Sang. 53, Abbey Library, St. Gallen

Above: Printed antiphonary (ca. 1700), open to Vespers of Easter Sunday, Musée de l’Assistance Publique, Hôpitaux de Paris

During the 9th century a new, larger Church was built and the Library was expanded.

Manuscripts on a wide variety of topics were purchased by the Abbey and copies were made.

Over 400 manuscripts from this time have survived and are still in the Library today.

Above: Abbey Library

Emperor Louis the Pious (778 – 840) made the monastery an imperial institution.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

In 926 the Magyars threatened the Abbey and the books had to be removed to Reichenau for safety.

Above: Hungarian invasions, 9th and 10th centuries CE

Not all the books were returned.

Above: Aerial view of Reichenau Island

Hungarian troops entered Swabia, as allies of the new Italian King, Hugh the Great (880 – 947), besieged Augsburg, and then occupied the Abbey of Saint Gallen, where they spared the life of the monk Heribald, whose accounts give a detailed description about their traditions and way of life. 

Above: Hugh the Great

Above: Town Hall Palace, Augsburg, Germany

The “Golden Age” of St. Gallen ended abruptly on 1 May 926, after travellers reported in the spring that the Hungarians were already advancing on their campaigns as far as Lake Constance. 

Since the dukes could not build up a joint defense in the divided East Frankish kingdom, they had nothing to oppose the plundering and pillaging gangs.

Above: Division of the Frankish Empire, 843

Abbot Engilbert decided to bring the students, the elderly and the sick to safety in the moated castle near Lindau, which belonged to the monastery.

Above: Lindau Island, Germany

Many of the writings were hidden in the friendly monastery of Reichenau.

The monks took themselves and the valuable cult objects to a refuge of safety in the Sitterswald. 

Above: Catholic Church, Sitterswald, Switzerland

At her express request, the hermit Wiborada was the only one left behind in the walled-up church of St. Mangen in the deserted town.

Above: St. Mangen Church, St. Gallen

From the Abbey the Magyars sent minor units to reconnoitre and plunder the surroundings.

When the Hungarians raided the city, they found nothing of value. 

They damaged buildings and altars and burned down the town’s wooden houses. 

The attackers also found Wiborada, but no entrance to their walled-up hermitage. 

Fire couldn’t harm her or the church, so the Hungarians uncovered the roof and killed her. 

The Hungarians did not dare to attack the monks’ refuge because of its inaccessible location. 

They were even attacked by the retreating monks. 

After the Hungarians left, the monks returned with the residents and rebuilt the damaged and burnt down houses. 

One of their units killed Wiborada who lived as an anchoress (female hermit) in a wood nearby.

Above: Church of St. Mangen

Wiborada was born to a wealthy noble family in Swabia.

When they invited the sick and poor into their home, Wiborada proved a capable nurse.

Her brother Hatto became a priest.

A pilgrimage to Rome influenced Hatto to decide to become a monk at the Abbey of Saint Gall, a decision which Wiborada supported.

After the death of their parents, Wiborada joined Hatto and became a Benedictine at the Abbey of Saint Gall.

Above: Portrayal of the young Ulrich with Wiborada

Wiborada became settled at the monastery and Hatto taught her Latin so that she could chant the Liturgy of the Hours.

There, she occupied herself by making Hatto’s clothes and helping to bind many of the books in the monastery library.

At this time, it appears that Wiborada was charged with some type of serious infraction or wrongdoing, and was subjected to the medieval practice of ordeal by fire to prove her innocence.

(Ordeal by fire was one form of torture.

The ordeal of fire typically required that the accused walk a certain distance, usually 9 feet (2.7 metres) or a certain number of paces, usually three, over red-hot ploughshares or holding a red-hot iron.

Innocence was sometimes established by a complete lack of injury, but it was more common for the wound to be bandaged and re-examined three days later by a priest, who would pronounce that God had intervened to heal it, or that it was merely festering — in which case the suspect would be exiled ot put to death.)

Above: After being accused of adultery Cunigunde of Luxembourg (975 – 104) proved her innocence by walking over red-hot ploughshares.

Although she was exonerated, the embarrassment probably influenced her next decision: withdrawing from the world and becoming an ascetic.

When she petitioned to become an anchoress, Solomon III, Bishop of Konstanz (r. 890 – 919), arranged for her to stay in a cell next to the Church of Saint George near the monastery, where she remained for four years before relocating to a cell adjoining the church of Magnus of Füssen in 891.

She became renowned for her austerity, and was said to have a gift of prophecy, both of which drew admirers and hopeful students.

Above: Wiborada with Solomon III, Bishop of Konstanz

One of these, a woman named Rachildis, whom Wiborada had cured of a disease, joined her as an anchoress.

Above: Healing of a sick person with the comb relic of Wiborada

A young student at St. Gall, Ulrich (890 – 973), is said to have visited Wiborada often.

Wiborda supposedly prophesied his elevation to the Episcopate of Augsburg.

(Ulrich was the first saint to be canonized not by a local authority but by the Pope.)

Above: Statue of Ulrich von Augsburg (890 – 973), St. Agatha Chapel, Disentis, Graubünden, Switzerland

In 925, Wiborada predicted a Hungarian invasion of her region.

Her warning allowed the priests and religious of St. Gall and St. Magnus to hide their books and wine and escape into caves in nearby hills. 

The most precious manuscripts were transferred to the monastery at Reichenau Island.

However, the main refuge castle for the monks and the Abbot was the Waldburg in the Sitterwood.

Abbot Engilbert urged Wiborada to escape to safety, but she refused to leave her cell.

On 8 May 926 the Magyar marauders reached St. Gall.

They burned down St. Magnus and broke into the roof of Wiborada’s cell.

Upon finding her kneeling in prayer, they clove her skull with a fokos (shepherd’s axe).

Above: Earliest representation of Wiborada

Her companion Rachildis was not killed, and lived another 21 years, during which her disease returned.

She spent the rest of her life learning patience through suffering.

Wiborada’s refusal to leave her cell and the part she played in saving the lives of the priests and religious of her convent have merited her the title of martyr.

Above: The martyrdom of Wiborada

On 26 April 937, a fire broke out and destroyed much of the Abbey and the adjoining settlement, though the library was undamaged.

About 954 they started to protect the monastery and buildings by a surrounding wall.

Circa 974 Abbot Notker (r. 971 – 975) (about whom almost nothing is known, except that he was the nephew of Notker Physicus (d. 975) – “the physician“) finalized the walling.

The adjoining settlements started to become the town of St Gall. 

Above: Abbey and surroundings, St. Gallen

The Abbey was the northernmost place where a sighting of the 1006 supernova was recorded, likely the brightest observed stellar event in recorded history.

Above: Remnant of Supernova 1006

In 1207, Abbot Ulrich von Sax was made a Prince of the Holy Roman Empire by King Philip of Germany (1177 – 1208).

Above: Coat of arms of the von Sax dynasty

The Abbey thus became a Princely Abbey (Reichsabtei).

As the Abbey became more involved in politics, it entered a period of decline.

Above: Philip of Swabia (1177 – 1208)

The city of St. Gallen proper progressively freed itself from the rule of the Abbot, acquiring imperial immediacy, and by the late 15th century was recognized as a Free Imperial City.

By 1353 the guilds, headed by the cloth weavers guild, gained control of the civic government.

In 1415 the City bought its liberty from German King Sigismund (1368 – 1437).

During the 14th century Humanists were allowed to carry off some of the rare texts from the Abbey Library.

Above: Sigismund of Luxembourg (1368 – 1437)

In the late 14th and early 15th centuries, the farmers of the Abbot’s personal estates (known as Appenzell, from the Latin abbatis cella meaning “cell (i.e. estate) of the Abbot“) began seeking independence.

In 1401, the first of the Appenzell Wars (1401 – 1429) broke out, and following the Appenzell victory at Stoss in 1405 they became allies of the Swiss Confederation in 1411.

Above: Battle of Vögelinsegg

Above: Battle of Stoss Pass (1405) Memorial

During the Appenzell Wars, the town of St. Gallen often sided with Appenzell against the Abbey.

So when Appenzell allied with the Confederation, the town of St. Gallen followed just a few months later.

The Abbey became an ally of several members of the Swiss Confederation (Zürich, Luzern, Schwyz and Glarus) in 1451, while Appenzell and St. Gallen became full members of the Swiss Confederation in 1454.

In 1457 the town of St. Gallen became officially free from the Abbey.

Above: Coat of arms of the City of St. Gallen

In 1468 Abbot Ulrich Rösch bought the County of Toggenburg from the representative of its counts, after the family died out in 1436.

In 1487 Rösch founded a monastery at Rorschach on Lake Constance, to which he planned to move.

Above: Rorschach, Switzerland

However, he encountered stiff resistance from the St. Gallen citizenry, other clerics, and the Appenzell nobility in the Rhine Valley who were concerned about their holdings.

Above: Abbot Ulrich Rösch (1463 – 1491)

The town of St. Gallen wanted to restrict the increase of power of the Abbey and simultaneously increase the power of the town.

The Mayor of St. Gallen, Ulrich Varnbüler, established contact with farmers and Appenzell residents (led by the fanatical Hermann Schwendiner) who were seeking an opportunity to weaken the Abbot.

Initially, Varnbüler protested to the Abbot and the representatives of the four sponsoring Confederate cantons (Zürich, Lucerne, Schwyz, and Glarus) against the construction of the new Abbey in Rorschach.

Then on 28 July 1489 he had armed troops from St. Gallen and Appenzell destroy the buildings already under construction.

Above: Portrait of Ulrich Varnbüler (1432 – 1496), Albrecht Dürer

When the Abbot complained to the Confederates about the damages and demanded full compensation, Varnbüler responded with a counter suit and in cooperation with Schwendiner rejected the arbitration efforts of the non-partisan Confederates.

He motivated the clerics from Wil to Rorschach to discard their loyalty to the Abbey and spoke against the Abbey at a town meeting in Waldkirch, where the popular league was formed.

He was confident that the four sponsoring cantons would not intervene with force, due to the prevailing tensions between the Confederation and the Swabian League.

He was strengthened in his resolve by the fact that the people of St. Gallen elected him again to the highest magistrate in 1490.

Above: The Abbot’s coat of arms

However, in early 1490 the four cantons decided to carry out their duty to the Abbey and to invade the St. Gallen canton with an armed force.

The people of Appenzell and the local clerics submitted to this force without noteworthy resistance, while the city of St. Gallen braced for a fight to the finish.

However, when they learned that their compatriots had given up the fight, they lost confidence.

The end result was that they concluded a peace pact that greatly restricted the city’s powers and burdened the city with serious penalties and reparations payments.

Above: Old houses of St. Gallen

Varnbüler and Schwendiner fled to the court of King Maximilian (1459 – 1519) and lost all their property in St. Gallen and Appenzell.

However, the Abbot’s reliance on the Swiss to support him reduced his position almost to that of a “subject district“.

Above: Maxmilian I, Holy Roman Emperor

The town adopted the Reformation in 1524, while the Abbey remained Catholic, which damaged relations between the town and Abbey.

Both the Abbot and a representative of the town were admitted to the Swiss Tagsatzung (parliament) as the closest associates of the Confederation.

In the 16th century the Abbey was raided by Calvinist groups, who scattered many of the old books. 

Above: Tadsatzung, Baden, 1531

In 1530, Abbot Diethelm began a restoration that stopped the decline and led to an expansion of the schools and library.

Under Abbot Pius Reher (r. 1630 – 1654) a printing press was started.

Above: Pius Reher (1597 – 1654)

In 1712 during the Toggenburg War (also called the Second War of Villmergen), the Abbey of St. Gall was pillaged by the Confederation.

They took most of the books and manuscripts to Zürich and Bern.

For security, the Abbey was forced to request the protection of the townspeople of St. Gallen.

Until 1457 the townspeople had been serfs of the Abbey, but they had grown in power until they were protecting the Abbey.

Above: Toggenburg War map – Protestant (green) / Catholic (yellow) / Neutral (grey)

Following the disturbances, the Abbey was still the largest religious city-state in Switzerland, with over 77,000 inhabitants.

A final attempt to expand the abbey resulted in the demolition of most of the medieval monastery.

The new structures, including the Cathedral by architect Peter Thumb (1681–1766), were designed in the late Baroque style and constructed between 1755 and 1768.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

The large and ornate new Abbey did not remain a monastery for very long.

In 1798 the Prince-Abbot’s secular power was suppressed and the Abbey was secularized.

The monks were driven out and moved into other abbeys.

The Abbey became a separate See (a bishop’s ecclesiastical jurisdiction) in 1846, with the Abbey church as its Cathedral and a portion of the monastic buildings reserved for the Bishop.

Above: Abbey

The Abbey of St. Gall, the monastery and especially its celebrated scriptorium played an illustrious part in Catholic and intellectual history until it was secularised in 1798.

The former Abbey church became a Cathedral in 1848.

Since 1983 the abbey precinct has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as “a perfect example of a great Carolingian monastery”.

Above: Abbey

St. Gall is the name of a wheel shaped hard cheese made from the milk of Friesian cows, which won a Gold Medal at the World Cheese Awards held in Dublin 2008.

Canadian writer Robertson Davies, in his book, The Manticore, interprets the legend in Swiss psychologist Carl Jung (1875 – 1961) terms.

In the final scene of the novel where David Staunton is celebrating Christmas with Lizelloti Fitziputli, Magnus Eisengrim, and Dunstan Ramsay, he is given a gingerbread bear.

Ramsay explains that Gall made a pact of peace with a bear who was terrorizing the citizens of the nearby village.

They would feed the bear gingerbread and the bear would refrain from eating them.

The parable is presented as a Jungian exhortation to make peace with one’s dark side.

This Jungian interpretation is however incompatible with Catholic Orthodoxy which Gall promoted.

It is all a matter of what you choose to believe.

Even today, the Abbey Library is celebrated as Switzerland’s finest secular Rococo interior and one of the oldest libraries in Europe with its huge collection of rare medieval books and manuscripts.

The visitor enters beneath a sign that reads YUCHS IATREION (Greek for “Pharmacy of the Soul).

By the entrance are dozens of oversized felt grey slippers.

Slip your shoe-clad feet into a pair, to protect the inlaid wooden floor.

The 28m X 10m room is dynamic.

Designed by the same Peter Thumb who worked on the Cathedral, the Library’s orthodox Baroque architecture is overlaid with opulent Rococo decoration.

The four ceiling frescoes by Josef Wannenmacher depict with bold trompe l’oeil perspectives the early Christian theological Councils of Nicaea (modern Iznik, Turkey), Constantinople (modern Istanbul), Ephesus (modern Selçuk, Turkey), and Chalcedon (Kadiköy district, Istanbul).

Above: The Council of Nicaea, with Arius depicted as defeated by the council, lying under the feet of Emperor Constantine

Above: Miniature of the Council of Constantinople (AD 381). Emperor Theodosius I and a crowd of bishops seated on a semicircular bench, on either side of an enthroned Gospel Book. An heretic, Macedonius, occupies the lower left corner of the miniature.

Above: Council of Ephesus (431)

Above: Council of Chalcedon (451)

Among the wealth of smaller frescoes set among the ceiling stucco, in the corner directly above the entrance door, you will spot the Venerable Bede, a 7th century English monk from Northumbria who wrote one of the first histories of England.

Above: The Venerable Bede (672 – 735), The Last Chapter, J. Boyle Penrose

Above: Statue of the Venerable Bede, St. Gallen Abbey

The books are ranged on floor-to-ceiling shelves all around.

Its list of cultural treasures among its over 160,000 volumes is extraordinary.

There are more Irish manuscripts in St. Gallen than there are in Dublin, with 15 handwritten examples including a Latin manuscript of the Gospels dating from 750.

Other works include:

  • an astronomical textbook written in 300 BCE
  • copies made in the 5th century of works by Virgil, Horace and other classical authors
  • texts written by the Venerable Bede in his original Northumbrian language
  • the oldest book to have survived in German, dating from the 8th century

Above: Abbey Library

One of the more interesting documents in the Stiftsbibliothek is a copy of Priscian’s (circa 500) Institutiones grammaticae, (the standard textbook for the study of Latin during the Middle Ages), which contains the poem Is acher in gaith in-nocht, written in Old Irish.

Above: Institutiones Grammaticae, 1290, Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, Firenze (Florence), Italy

The Library also preserves a unique 9th century document, known as the Plan of St. Gall, the only surviving major architectural drawing from the roughly 700-year period between the fall of the Western Roman Empire and the 13th century.

The Plan drawn was never actually built, and was so named because it was kept at the famous medieval monastery library, where it remains to this day.

The Plan was an ideal of what a well-designed and well-supplied monastery should have, as envisioned by one of the synods held at Aachen (814 – 817) for the reform of monasticism in the Frankish Empire during the early years of Emperor Louis the Pious.

Above: Plan of Saint Gall (simplified)

A late 9th century drawing of St. Paul lecturing an agitated crowd of Jews and Gentiles, part of a copy of a Pauline epistles produced at and still held by the Monastery, was included in a medieval drawing show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City in the summer of 2009.

A reviewer noted that the artist had “a special talent for depicting hair, with the saint’s beard ending in curling droplets of ink“.

Above: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City

St. Gall is noted for its early use of the neume, the basic element of Western and Eastern systems of musical notation prior to the invention of five-line staff notation.

The earliest extant manuscripts are from the 9th or 10th century.

A few treasures of the Library are displayed in glass cases, with exhibits changed regularly.

Incongruously (as in “What the Hell is this doing here?“), there is an Egyptian mummy dating from 700 BCE, a gift to the mayor of St. Gallen in the early 19th century.

Unsure of what to do with it, he plonked it in this corner of the Library, where it has since remained.

Above: Abbey Library

Diagonally opposite stands a beautifully intricate 2.3m-high globe depicting both celestial and earthly maps.

It is, in fact, a replica.

The original, dating from 1570, was stolen by Zürich troops in 1712 and stands in the National Museum.

To resolve the dispute, Canton Zürich agreed to produce this copy, which was completed in 2009.

Above: Abbey Library

I find myself thinking of the reverence that is given to copies.

A globe is replicated and its replication is mentioned in the smallest print possible with the least fanfare required.

Those who do not question its authenticity need not know it isn’t the original.

This leads to me to ponder:

How far from the origins of our religions have we strayed?

We are told that Christ existed but the proof lies solely in the Gospels which promote His Name.

We are told that Muhammad existed but it is blasphemy to even sketch a likeness of how the Prophet may have looked.

We choose to believe in that which we can neither prove nor disprove.

Much like love, faith is manifested not in what is professed but rather by how it is manifested in the lives of its true believers.

By deeds we decide our dedication.

By actions we activate our ardour.

Above: Prevailing world religions map

All of which leaves me thinking of the Chris Nolan film The Dark Knight….

It’s not about what I want, it’s about what’s FAIR!

You thought we could be decent men in an indecent time.

But you were wrong.

The world is cruel and the only morality in a cruel world is chance.

Unbiased, unprejudiced, fair.

Above: Aaron Eckhart as Harvey Dent/Two Face, The Dark Knight

Because sometimes…

The truth isn’t good enough.

Sometimes people deserve more.

Sometimes people deserve to have their faith rewarded.

Above: Christian Bale as Batman / Bruce Wayne, The Dark Knight

Perhaps this is why we build cathedrals and mosques and temples?

To show how our faith has rewarded us?

Above: Ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Nothing left to do
When you know that you’ve been taken
Nothing left to do
When you’re begging for a crumb
Nothing left to do
When you’ve got to go on waiting
Waiting for the miracle to come

Waiting for the Miracle“, Leonard Cohen

Above: Leonard Cohen (1934 – 2016)

According to the 2000 census, 31,978 or 44.0% were Roman Catholic, while 19,578 or 27.0% belonged to the Swiss Reformed Church.

Of the rest of the population, there were 112 individuals (or about 0.15% of the population) who belong to the Christian Catholic faith, there were 3,253 individuals (or about 4.48% of the population) who belong to the Orthodox Church, and there were 1,502 individuals (or about 2.07% of the population) who belong to another Christian church.

There were 133 individuals (or about 0.18% of the population) who were Jewish, and 4,856 (or about 6.69% of the population) who were Muslim.

There were 837 individuals (or about 1.15% of the population) who belonged to another church (not listed on the census), 7,221 (or about 9.94% of the population) belonged to no church, were agnostic or atheist, and 3,156 individuals (or about 4.35% of the population) did not answer the question.

There are 28 sites in St. Gallen that are listed as Swiss Heritage Sites of National Significance, including four religious buildings:

  • the Abbey of St. Gallen

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

  • the former Dominican Abbey of St. Katharina

The St. Gallen Monastery of St. Catherine has had a turbulent history since it was founded in 1228.

The founding document dates dates back to 30 June 1228.

It is a late Gothic splendour – beautiful and one of the oldest buildings in the city.

The history of the order goes back to the 13th and 14th centuries.

The monastery was named after the martyr Catherine of Alexandria.

Until 1266 St. Catherine was a monastery of the Augustinians, until in 1368 the resident nuns adopted the Dominican rule.

The great fire of 20 April 1418 greatly affected the monastery.

The last woman entering the monastery, Katharina von Watt, was a sister of the longtime Mayor and patron of the Reformation, Joachim von Watt (Vadian).

In 1527 the monastery became a victim of the Reformation:

Council servants commissioned by the authorities entered into the monastery church and destroyed the cult objects.

In 1555 the last sisters left the St. Gallen Monastery of St. Catherine.

Today only the cloister and the church have survived from the monastery complex.

You can walk through the cloister and there is a library which can be visited.

There is also a old church (of course) but the opening times are said to be very special…

Above: The Monastery of St. Catherine, St. Gallen

  • the Reformed Church of St. Lawrence

The St. Laurenzen Church is the Evangelical Reformed parish church of the city of St. Gallen. 

The construction of the first church is estimated to be in the middle of the 12th century. 

The church was the political, religious and social center of the city republic of St. Gallen for almost 300 years and has had a lasting influence on the history of the city.

Today it is still a meeting room for the town’s local citizens. 

The church takes its name from the martyr Lawrence of Rome to whom it was dedicated. It is classified as a building worthy of national protection (highest of the three protection levels) and as a monument of national importance it is therefore under federal monument protection.

Above: Church of St. Lawrence, St. Gallen

  • the Roman Catholic parish church of St. Maria Neudorf

Above: St. Maria Neudorf, St. Gallen

One of the most important organs in Switzerland is located in the church of St. Maria Neudorf in the east of the city of St. Gallen. 

Their history and construction are not commonplace. 

It is a monumental organ that was built in 1927 by organ builder Willisau according to the principles of the Alsatian organ reform. 

It is the largest organ in the city of St. Gallen and, with its remote control, is one of the largest surviving organs from this period.

Above: Organ, St. Maria Neudorf

Also worth viewing are:

  • Greek Orthodox Church of St. Constantine and St. Helena with its Athonite icons and a stained glass window of the Last Judgment

Above: Greek Orthodox Church of St. Constantine and St. Helena, St. Gallen

Above: St. Constantine and St. Helena

Above: Details of the Last Judgment

  • Protestant Church of Linsebühl, an impressive new Renaissance building dating from 1897

The striking Linsebühl Church, built in 1895-1897 in neo-Renaissance style, is a little off the beaten track of traffic but still central. 

The richly decorated interior was extensively restored in 1992 and offers a festive and, at the same time, a somewhat playful atmosphere with excellent acoustics for music and singing.

The organ by the Goll company from Luzern, built in 1897 and restored in 1992, with pneumatic action, three manuals, a pedal and 38 registers, is one of the few surviving purely romantic organs and is known far beyond the city and canton borders.


In addition to the usually well-attended church services, some concerts take place in the Linsebühl church.

With its large forecourt and neighboring parish hall, it is also very suitable for weddings and other festive occasions.


With its galleries, the Church offers space for 810 people (The nave alone can hold ​​512 people).

Above: Linsebühl Reformed Church, St. Gallen

  • Catholic church of St. Martin in the Bruggen district, this concrete church built in 1936 was at that time glaringly modern

This third Catholic Church of St. Martin Bruggen was completed in 1936 next to its predecessor church. 

The first chapel was consecrated in 1600 and converted into a proper church in 1639. 

The second church was completed on the site of the first in 1785 and received a new tower in 1808. 

After the new building and the consecration of today’s church, the southwestern old church was demolished.

Above: St. Martin Church, Bruggen, St. Gallen

The church is named after Saint Martin of Tours. 

A life-size equestrian statue of him stands in front of the church, together with a beggar.

Above: St. Martin Bruggen Reformed Church, St. Gallen

(While Martin was a soldier in the Roman army and stationed in Gaul (modern-day France), he experienced a vision, which became the most-repeated story about his life.

One winter’s day, at the gates of Amiens, Martin met a poor, unclothed man. 

Martin was carrying nothing but his guns and military coat. 

In a merciful act, he divided his cloak with the sword and gave half to the poor man. 

The following night Christ appeared to Martin in a dream, dressed in half the cloak that he had given the beggar. 

I was naked and you clothed me….

What you did to one of these least of these my brothers, you did to me.” (Matthew 25: 35 – 40) )

Above: Martin and the beggar, El Greco

  • Synagogue St. Gallen, built by architects Chiodera and Tschudy, it is the only synagogue in the Lake Constance region that has been preserved in its original state.

Above: St. Gallen Synagogue

The first document mentioning Jews in St. Gall is dated in 1268.

In 1292 two houses in the town were inhabited by Jews.

On 23 February 1349, during the Black Death, Jewish inhabitants were burned or driven out.

Jews were not allowed to settle in St. Gall again until the 19th century.

The Jews, who then lived in a special quarter, the “Hinterlauben” or “Brotlauben” were accused of having poisoned the wells.

St. Gallen followed the example of other towns near the Lake of Constance, imprisoning the Jews, burning them alive, or at best expelling them and confiscating their property.

For a long time after this event no Jews lived in St. Gall.

In modern times the right of settlement was granted only very exceptionally to a few Jews, who had to pay heavily for the concession.

Even after the wars of independence the St. Gallen “Jews’ Law” of 15 May 1818, though not strictly enforced by the government, placed the Jews under severe restrictions.

These laws remained on the statute books until the emancipation of the Jews of Switzerland in February 1863.

On 8 April 1864, the present Jewish community was constituted, the members having moved to St. Gall from the nearby town of Hohenems (Austria).

On 21 September 1881, the present synagogue was consecrated.

Religious services were organized, Hebrew and religious classes founded.

Soon afterward the cemetery was laid out.

The dead had previously been conveyed to one of the neighboring communities.

Above: Jewish cemetery, St. Gallen

Jews played a prominent role in the St. Gall textile industry until 1912, especially in the famous embroidery branch.

In 1919 refugees from Eastern Europe settled in St. Gallen, forming a separate community.

German and Austrian Jewish refugees began crossing the border into the Canton in 1938, and a refugee care organization was set up there.

Above: Judaica – candlesticks, etrog box, shofar, Torah pointer, Tanach, natla

From 1939 to 1944 the town was the centre for preparing Jewish refugee children for Youth Aliyah to Palestine.

Above: Youth Aliyah commemorative stamp

In 1944, 1,350 Jews (mostly Hungarian) from the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp were brought to St. Gallen.

Above: A British Army bulldozer pushes dead bodies into a mass grave at Belsen, Germany, 19 April 1945

A year later 1,200 Jews from Theresienstadt concentration camp arrived.

Above: Memorial to Jewish Victims, Terezin (formerly Theresienstadt), Czech Republic

Above: Three Jewish children rescued from Theresienstadt recuperate in St. Gallen, 11 February 1945

Police officer Paul Grüninger, later designated as “Righteous among the Gentiles“, helped Jewish refugees after 1938.

Above: Righteous Among the Nations medal

He was ousted from office, lost his pension, and died in misery.

Years after his death, citizens fought successfully for his posthumous rehabilitation.

A square in St. Gallen is named after him.

Above: Paul Grüninger (1891 – 1972)

Above: Grüningerplatz, St. Gallen

Above: Paul Brüninger Bridge between Diepoldsau, Germany and Hohenems, Austria

The Jewish inhabitants of St. Gallen increased numerically over the course of time through frequent migrations from the communities of Endingen and Lengnau, Gailingen (Baden), Laupheim (Württemberg), and from other places.

The Jews of St. Gallen exceed 500 in a total population of over 33,000.

Above: Entry to the Jewish Museum of Switzerland, Basel

The El Hidaje Mosque is an unassuming building that received public attention when a man was shot dead during a Friday prayer on 22 August 2014.

Police arrested an individual with a handgun when they were called after reports of gunfire.

A man was found dead in the mosque’s prayer room, a police spokesman said.

Around 300 people were reportedly in the mosque for Friday prayers at the time of the shooting.

It was not immediately clear what the motive may have been.

Witnesses believe the killing may have been linked to a family dispute dating back a number of years, Swiss newspaper 20 Minutes reported.

The El-Hidaje mosque is used by St Gallen’s Albanian Muslim community.

Fehim Dragusha, a former Imam at the mosque, told Switzerland’s Radio FM1:

Albanians and Muslims should not bring problems from their home country into Switzerland.

Above: El-Hidaje Mosque, St. Gallen

There are at least 50 places of worship across St. Gallen where people can gather to publicly proclaim their devotion to God.

And in none of them do I get a sense of the presence of God (presuming His existence) within.

This is not to say that others are not inspired by their visits to these sanctuaries of faith, but I am not one of them.

I defend a person’s right to believe (or not believe) what they will providing this practice does no harm to others

For myself what religious feeling I may have experienced has always been in the midst of walking.

An activity of late that has gone sadly neglected since my return to Eskişehir last month, though walking is an activity that requires few expenses to do.

We live in a time where the lines of conflict have been drawn between secrecy and openness, between the consolidation and the dispersal of power, between privatization and public ownership, between power and life.

Walking has always been on the side of the latter.

Walking itself has not changed the world – though it does seem that so many religious leaders have found their particular testaments during such activity – but walking has been a rite, a tool, a reinforcement of a civil society that stands up to violence, to fear, and to repression.

Indeed, it is hard to imagine a viable civil society without the free association and the knowledge of the terrain that comes with walking.

A sequestered or passive population is not quite a citizenry.

Insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space and will to walk and against the version of humanity that act embodies.

One force is the filling-up of “the time in-between“, the time between places.

This time has been deplored as a waste, so it is filled with earphones and mobile phone screens.

The ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the useless, has evaporated, as does appreciation of being outside – including outside the familiar.

Our mobile phones serve as a buffer against solitude, silence and thought.

We have become immobile and inactive.

We have forgotten that our bodies are built to be used, that our bodies were not meant to be passive, that our bodies are inherent sources of power.

While walking, the body and the mind can work together, so that thinking becomes a physical, rhythmic act.

Spirituality enters in as we move through urban and rural planes of existence.

Past and present combine as we relive events in our personal histories.

Each walk moves through space like a thread through fabric, sewing it together into a continuous experience – unlike the way other modes of travel chop up time and space.

It starts with a step and then another and then another, adding up like taps on a drum to a rhythm, the rhythm of walking.

Walking is an investigation, a ritual, a meditation.

We invest a universal act with particular meanings, from the erotic to the spiritual, from the revolutionary to the artistic.

A desk is no place to think on a large scale.

An absolutely new prospect is a great happiness and I can still get this any afternoon.

Two or three hours’ walking will carry me to as strange a country as I expect ever to see.

A single farmhouse which I had not seen before is sometimes as good as the dominions of the King of Dahomey.

There is in fact a sort of harmony discoverable between the capabilities of the landscape and the threescore and ten years of human life.

It will never become quite familiar to you.

Henry David Thoreau

Above: Henry David Thoreau (1817 – 1862)

It is the unpredictable incidents between official events that add up to a life, the incalculable that gives it value.

Walking is about being outside, in public space, but public space is being abandoned and eroded, eclipsed by technologies and services that don’t require leaving home.

Outside has been shadowed by fear, for strange places are always more frightening than familiar ones, so the less one wanders the more alarming it seems, and so the fewer the wanderers the more lonely and dangerous it really becomes.

Above: Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust (Dutch edition)

The newer the place, the less public space.

Malls have replaced Main Street, the streets have no sidewalks, buildings are entered through the garage, City Hall has no plaza, and everywhere everything has walls and bars and gates.

Fear has created the landscape where to be a pedestrian is to be under suspicion.

Too many have forgotten that it is the random, the unscreened, that allows you to find what you didn’t know you were looking for.

And you don’t know a place until it surprises you.

Above: Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust (Spanish edition)

But we have come to a place in society where the road ends, where there is no public space and we have paved Paradise to put up a parking lot, a world where leisure is shrinking and being crushed under the anxiety to produce, where bodies are not in the world but indoors in transport and buildings.

We have gained speed and lost purpose.

When you give yourself to places, they give you yourself back.

The more you come to know a place, the more you seed it with an invisible crop of memories and associations that will be waiting for your return, while new places offer up new thoughts and new possibilities.

Walking came from Africa, from evolution, and from necessity.

It went everywhere, usually looking for something.

And this is the essence of walking, the search for something intangible.

Above: (in green) Africa

This is the essence of the pilgrimage, a literal means of spiritual journey, wherein the journey is more significant than the destination itself, for it is the journey that develops us spiritually.

Walking lets us be in that non-believer’s Paradise, that Heaven on Earth, nature.

To consider Earth holy is to connect the lowest and most material to the most high and ethereal, to close the breach between matter and spirit.

The world is holy and the sacred is underfoot rather than above.

The journey of the outside is also a journey within.

And there have been people in St. Gallen that remind me of the holy underfoot and the surprising compassion of those not out to earn their own “salvation” but who only seek to help others to find theirs.

Each time we are reunited, Augustin and I stroll through town.

He does not point out the attractions, but somehow I feel that I am seeing St. Gallen through his eyes and not my own.

His manner of expression lends majesty to the path upon which we walk.

Above: My friend Augustin

I have known Augustin for a decade when we were both employed at the Starbucks Bahnhof St. Gallen.

He is truly a remarkable man.

Augustin – a wonderful mix of French and African…

As welcoming to Switzerland as rain in the desert….

When I broke both my arms in 2018 and needed to be rehabilitated in Mammern – 26 miles / 42 km northwest of St. Gallen – he was my sole visitor (save my wife) who came out to visit me.

Everyone has busy lives and yet he found the time – made the time – to visit someone who should have given him, should still give him, more of his time and attention.

Above: Augustin and your humble blogger, Mammern, Switzerland, 2 June 2018

On 22 January 2022, after very little contact or communication between us, he invited me to his new apartment he shares with his lady love Laura and he cooked us a delicious dinner and continuously gave and gave to me whatever I might desire.

I left his apartment feeling humbled and honoured by the hospitality and love shown to me.

May I always be worthy.

Above: Laura and Augustin

Augustin is one of the hardest workers I have ever had the honour of working with.

He truly gives the adage “It is not the job that brings dignity to the man. It is the man who brings dignity to the job.” meaning.

He is one of those rare individuals who may not have always been blessed with the wealth that others take for granted, but he remains generous to a fault.

He came to Switzerland in dire straits.

He spoke truth to power and his homeland’s government desired to imprison him for his sacrilege.

He remains an exile from his home, from his loved ones there, until the politics therein, perhaps, one day, changes.

He has since become a Swiss citizen and, as such, acts responsibly, deserving of that privilege.

He has built a life for himself, has found a lady love and has achieved a happiness he so richly deserves, for he has gotten from the universe what he has given to it and fortune has rewarded him accordingly.

His is one of those friendships, like so many friendships this rolling stone has been miraculously been blessed with, that needs no reciprocation and yet rewards those who treat him with dignity and respect.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Augustin is my mirror.

I cannot even begin to guess the mind of another person, but perhaps the dignity and respect I have shown him compels him to show me the same.

Despite this, I get the feeling that he does not give in order to get.

He is not good (at least, to me) out of any expectation.

Nor do I get a sense of his feeling entitled to reciprocation.

(Unlike some I have known…..)

Augustin, the Augustin I know, is a man fit to be any other man’s role model of what a good person is, of what a good person can be.

I am blessed by his friendship.

Above: Augustin

Perhaps I should not be so surprised and touched when people are nice to me.

And yet I am, almost every time, when an act of human kindness touches my life.

I am even surprised when my own wife is kind to me, for we have had our differences over the years.

(My sojourn in Turkey has not helped the relationship.)

Like most men, I am probably undeserving of a good woman’s (or perhaps even a bad woman’s) love.

Above: The Wedding, Edmund Blair Leighton

I think of my last visit to Switzerland and the friends I encountered when I was there:

  • Volkan, assistant Starbucks store manager and talented singer, is a man of surprising depth at times.
  • Nesha, of Belgrade and Herisau, has always been a friend with whom I can share moments of laughter.
  • Naomi, Canadian from Vancouver and Starbucks barista, a woman torn between ambition and affection, is a woman who leads with her heart despite the misgivings of her head.
  • Alanna, Canadian from Nova Scotia, Starbucks shift manager and independent store operator, is one of the strongest women I know, whose will is as powerful as her beauty.
  • Katja is a woman whose wanderlust and passion for life matches my own.
  • Sinan is a young man whose maturity belies the youthfulness of his features, a good father, a good husband, a good friend.
  • Michael is a young man who reminds me of myself in my younger days, so confident in what he knows, still unaware that the passage of time will confirm that there will always be more we don’t understand, that the knowledge we do have is merely a beginning, that it is never the completion of all we need to know, he is a young man who in discovering the world discovers himself.
  • Sonja, former Starbucks store manager, now an independent vendor in the Luzern region, is always compassionate to me whenever we see one another.
  • Ricardo, former Starbucks store manager, is another friend who is easy to misjudge, but, at least with me, he has proven ready to assist me should I ask him.
  • Pedro, Starbucks store manager, started at Starbucks shortly after I did, but unlike me was determined to rise within its ranks, is a person I am proud to know, for despite his success he has always respected that I walk a different path than he does.
  • Ute, my wife, my life, is as part of my being as breathing, a woman who deserves far better than myself, but Karma is a tricky thing!

These are the few I was fortunate enough to see during my last visit.

There remain others that time and circumstance prevented our reunion.

I have been blessed by these and other friends (and family) in other places (Canada, Britain, Australia, New Zealand, America, Germany, Austria, Paraguay, Turkey).

Do others see these friends different than I see them?

Most assuredly.

Some of my friends may not even like other friends of mine.

What may be said of their lives outside of my experience of them I can neither confirm nor deny.

I only judge them by their actions towards me.

And it is by their actions that I know them.

It is their actions towards me that restores my faith in humanity and in life itself.

They are my religion, my sustenance, the very breath I take, the reason I live, the courage to love.

Friends offer enormous comfort.

They help to structure your time.

They show you that you belong and can be cared about.

A man who lacks a network of friends is seriously impaired from living his life, from having a life worth living.

A man’s friends alleviate the neurotic overdependence on a wife or a girlfriend for every emotional need.

If a man, going through a “rough patch”, gets help from his friends as well as his partner, then his burden is shared.

If his problems are with his partner (as they often are) then his friends can help him through, talk sense into him, stop him acting stupidly and help him to release his grief.

I do not believe that men are as inarticulate as women claim.

We are simply inexperienced.

Our inarticulateness (a trait not shared by all men) simply comes from a history with a lack of sharing opportunities.

Millions of women complain about their male partner’s lack of feeling, their woodenness.

Men themselves (and I include myself in this) often feel numb and confused about what they really want.

But if men talked to each other more, perhaps they would understand themselves better.

Then perhaps we would then have more to say to our wives or girlfriends.

Sometimes only a man can understand what another man is feeling.

The same can be said for the empathy between women.

Men’s voices have a different tone than women’s.

Our feelings have a different tone as well.

We have more than enough feelings, but we lack the experience or opportunity to express them.

What does not help is that men are put into a double bind by society at large.

We are asked to simultaneously be more intimate and sensitive and yet be tough when needed.

As if feelings within a man need be as flexible as shifting gears in a car.

A considerable skill not innately part of ourselves.

We are reserved in expression, for expression requires trust in those who may listen.

Can we express hurt?

Can we express frustration?

Without fear of censure?

Without others minimizing these feelings?

Without advice given?

Without competition?

Men feel, but fear of showing weakness prevents expression.

Men can be noisy and wild and still be safe.

What annoys me about society is the demand that men must prove that they are men.

Men have nothing to prove.

Let men judge themselves by their own standards.

A man should not be judged for the manner in which he conveniently accommodates women.

Women have their own struggles.

Men have theirs.

Equality between the genders is only possible if there is negotiation and fairness, non-threatening behaviour (from both genders), mutual respect, mutual trust and support, honesty and accountability (from both genders), shared responsibility and economic partnership.

They are “my North, my South, my East and West,
My working week and my Sunday rest,
My noon, my midnight, my talk, my song.

W.H. Auden

Above: Wystan Hugh Auden (1907 – 1973)

Time and distance often separates us, but while I think of them they remain ever close to my heart and are embedded in my soul.

If there is a God – and sometimes I think there just might be – then He manifests Himself in the manner in which He blesses our lives with our fellow human beings.

Everyone I meet has proven to be either a blessing or a lesson in my life.

I am humbled.

I am grateful.

Another friend once described me in the following way:

You are a walking/living contradiction.

Shy and timid on one extreme, courageous and adventurous on the other, extremely intelligent and yet naive at the same time…”

(I have been called worse!)

Do I contradict myself?
Very well then I contradict myself,
(I am large, I contain multitudes.)

Walt Whitman

Above: Walt Whitman (1819 – 1892)

I find myself remembering an old Facebook post I wrote during the days I travelled by train between Landschlacht and St. Gallen:

Above: Swiss Federal Railways network map

Normally I am unaffected by graffiti and undecided as to whether it should be viewed as an art form or as an act of vandalism.

But there is a graffiti scrawling on the wall of a factory (apple processing plant?) facing the railroad station of Neukirch-Egnach (between Romanshorn and St. Gallen) that always makes me smile for its powerful simplicity.

You are artwork.

Each and every one of us is a miracle, an artistic masterpiece.

Such a wise graffiti scrawl...

Heed the writing on the wall.

Above: Neukirch-Egnach Station, Switzerland

What a piece of work is man,

How noble in reason, how infinite in faculty,

In form and moving how express and admirable,

In action how like an angel,

In apprehension how like a god,

The beauty of the world,

The paragon of animals. 

Hamlet, Act 2, Scene ii, William Shakespeare

Above: Presumed portrait of William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

It is Easter Sunday, it is Passover, it is Ramadan.

I am merely a man.

Thank God.

Above: Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Reuters, “One dead in shooting at mosque in Switzerland“, 23 August 2014

You CAN get what you want

Eskişehir, Turkey, Tuesday 11 April 2022

Last Saturday was a good day.

I completed a long blogpost, finally got the washing machine to function, had lunch with colleagues, worked the afternoon, then the day got interesting.

Ramadan 9, and my friend S. has been diligent in fasting.

She invited me to her home for iftar (the nightly feast that breaks the fast) and we spoke of many things: relationships, work, literature.

Above: Different types of food items on a typical Ifter plate

A woman who looks like a girl and thinks like a man is the best sort, the most enjoyable to be and the most pleasurable to have and to hold.

Julie Burchill

Above: Julie Birchill

She is a friend and it is glorious, for my being both married and old enough to be her father, there is no chemistry to worry about.

She cannot see me as more than a father figure and I see her like a little sister, so the conversation is uncomplicated and free from tension.

An aged man is but a paltry thing,

A tattered coat upon a stick, unless

Soul clap its hands and sing, and louder sing

For every tatter in its mortal dress

William Butler Yeats

Above: William Butler Yeats (1865 – 1939)

After dinner, she has plans, so I take my leave and make my way back home.

I pass the ES Park shopping mall and the Starbucks in front of it.

From behind me, a student calls my name and grabs my arm.

It is I., a woman less than half my age.

Time misspent in youth is sometimes all the freedom one ever has.”

Anita Brookner

Above: Anita Brookner (1928 – 2016)

She invites me to join her table where she sits with a male colleague.

She buys me a coffee.

We talk.

Another woman, another friend, again no chemistry to worry about.

The wisdom of age has rendered me meditative, contemplative.

Above: Auguste Rodin’s The Thinker, Paris, France

Age wins and one must learn to grow old.

I must learn to walk this long unlovely wintry way, looking for spectacles, shunning the cruel looking-glass, laughing at my clumsiness before others mistakenly condole, not expecting gallantry yet disappointed to receive none, apprehending every ache or shaft of pain, alive to blinding flashes of mortality, unarmed, totally vulnerable.”

Diana Cooper

Above: Diana Cooper (aka Lady Diana Manners) (1892 – 1986)

It is liberating to enjoy a woman’s company without the itch to be intimate, without the hunger to be in a relationship, without the fear of being alone compelling a pursuit of someone who then decides that you might or might be worthy of her time and attention, without the games that people play in pursuit of potential pleasure.

God created man, and finding him not sufficiently alone, gave him a companion to make him feel his solitude more keenly.

Paul Valéry

Above: Paul Valéry (1871 – 1945)

Just two people, being real, just talking, with no end goal except the enjoyment of the conversation.

It is relaxing not to have an agenda.

We men have got love well weighed up.

Our stuff can get by without it.

Women don’t seem to think that’s good enough.

They will write about it.

Kingsley Amis

Above: Kingsley Amis (1922 – 1995)

Just hanging out enjoying the warmer weather of the night.

S. tells me that her BF is playing drums at a club near my apartment.

After numerous previous invitations to see him perform I finally go to the club.

The band rocks, the music familiar and embracing.

A verbal art like poetry is reflective.

It stops to think.

Music is immediate.

It goes on to become.

W.H. Auden

Above: Wystan Hugh Auden (1907 – 1973)

I sit at a table secure in my solo situation nursing a cola.

Best to keep my senses about me in unknown territory.

I am warmly welcomed by G. and his friends.

G. surprises me from the moment he spots me in the crowd.

He asks the lead singer if they can play his request for me:

Ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone
It’s not warm when she’s away
Ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone
And she’s always gone too long
Anytime she goes away

Wonder this time where she’s gone
Wonder if she’s gone to stay
Ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone
And this house just ain’t no home
Anytime she goes away

And I know, I know, I know, I know
I know, I know, I know, I know, I know
I know, I know, I know, I know, I know
I know, I know, I know, I know, I know
I know, I know, I know, I know, I know
I know, I know
Hey, I ought to leave young thing alone
But ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone

Ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone
Only darkness every day
Ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone
And this house just ain’t no home
Anytime she goes away
Anytime she goes away
Anytime she goes away
Anytime she goes away

Bill Withers

It is a great feeling – music I love, a friendly atmosphere, no drama.

I am getting what I want, because there is nothing that I want that isn’t here already.

No expectations lead to no disappointments.

I simply let the night take me where it will.

There is something not quite right about night life, something shadowy in every sense.

However efficiently artificial light annihilates the difference between night and day, it never wholly eliminates the primitive suspicion that night people are up to no good.

A. Alvarez

Above: Al Alvarez (1929 – 2019)

I am a sensible man with a job requiring rest.

Been working like a dog gone crazy
I’ve been giving everything I’ve got
I need something short and sweet to save me
A little something that can hit the spot

I’ve been living like a man in a prison
I’ve been living like some monk in a cave
I need a woman with a good position
I start searching at the end of the day

Pack it in and go to town when the sun goes down
And do the tomcat prowl when the sun goes down

I’ve been punching out a clock since fifteen
I’ve been living on a working wage
You keep paying me and I’ll keep lifting
I keep a-lifting till the end of the day

Then pack it in and go to town
When the sun goes down
Do the moon dog howl when the sun goes down
And do the tomcat prowl when the sun goes down

Gotta find a way to ease that pressure
Gotta find a way to ease that pain
Gotta find myself some buried treasure
Gotta find it ‘fore the sun comes up again

It doesn’t matter if you’re sane or crazy
It doesn’t matter if you’re weak or strong
It doesn’t matter if your past is hazy
It doesn’t matter you can all come along

Pack it in and go to town when the sun goes down
And do the tomcat prowl when the sun goes down
Sun goes down
Pack it in and go to town when the sun goes down
And do the tomcat prowl when the sun goes down

Do the moon dog howl when the sun goes down

Doug and the Slugs

Many beautiful women in the club.

I acknowledge each and everyone of them.

And I walk home, alone and free.

I cannot walk through the suburbs in the solitude of the night without thinking that the night pleases us because it suppresses idle details, just as our memory does.

Jorge Luis Borges

Above: Jorge Luis Borges (1899 – 1986)

In bed just as Sunday morning begins, a smile on my face.

Know it sounds funny
But I just can’t stand the pain
Girl, I’m leaving you tomorrow
Seems to me girl
You know I’ve done all I can
You see I begged, stole
And I borrowed

Ooh, that’s why I’m easy
I’m easy like Sunday morning
That’s why I’m easy
I’m easy like Sunday morning

Why in the world
Would anybody put chains on me?
I’ve paid my dues to make it
Everybody wants me to be
What they want me to be
I’m not happy when I try to fake it!
No!

Ooh, that’s why I’m easy
I’m easy like Sunday morning
That’s why I’m easy
I’m easy like Sunday morning

I wanna be high, so high
I wanna be free to know
The things I do are right
I wanna be free
Just me, babe!

That’s why I’m easy
I’m easy like Sunday morning
That’s why I’m easy
I’m easy like Sunday morning
Because I’m easy
Easy like Sunday morning
Because I’m easy
Easy like Sunday morning

As slumber seizes my sensibilities I find myself feeling amazed that a talented intelligent man like G. confessed to me that he feels insecure about his talents and intelligence.

This confession and the enjoyment that the band brought me makes me think of the music and musicians I have loved.

All a musician can do is get closer to the sources of nature and so feel that he is in communion with the natural laws.

Then he can feel he is interpreting them to the best of his ability.

John Coltrane

Above: John Coltrane (1926 – 1967)

Music is the art of arranging sounds in time through the elements of melody, harmony, rhythm and timbre.

It is one of the universal cultural aspects of all human societies.

General definitions of music include common elements such as pitch (which governs melody and harmony), rhythm (and its associated concepts of tempo, meter and articulation), dynamics (loudness and softness), and the sonic qualities of timbre and texture (which are sometimes termed the “colour” of a musical sound).

Above: Allegory of music

I think the main thing a musician would like to do is give a picture to the listener of the many wonderful things he knows of and senses in the universe.

That’s what music is to me – it’s just another way of saying this is a big beautiful universe we live in, that’s been given to us, and here’s an example of just how magnificent and encompassing it is.”

John Coltrane

Different styles or types of music may emphasize, de-emphasize or omit some of these elements.

Music is performed with a vast range of instruments and vocal techniques ranging from singing to rapping.

There are solely instrumental pieces, solely vocal pieces (songs without instrumental accompaniment) and pieces that combine singing and instruments. 

If the music doesn’t say it, how can words say it for the music?”

John Coltrane

In its most general form, the activities describing music as an art form or cultural activity include the creation of works of music (songs, tunes, symphonies, and so on), the criticism of music, the study of the history of music, and the aesthetic examination of music. 

Ancient Greek and Indian philosophers defined music in two parts:

  • melodies (tones ordered horizontally)
  • harmonies (tones ordered vertically).

Above: Acropolis, Athens, Greece

Above: Taj Mahal, Agra, India

No one in the band is a musician.

We all hate the term.

We’re something close to factory workers.

Machinists.

Skilled operators.

John Lydon

Common sayings such as “the harmony of the spheres” and “it is music to my ears” point to the notion that music is often ordered and pleasant to listen to.

Above: Harmony of the World, Astrology, Ebenezer Sibley

However, 20th-century composer John Cage thought that any sound can be music, saying:

There is no noise, only sound.”

Above: John Cage (1912 – 1992)

I am not a musician.

I don’t go in too deep.

If you have the music in your head and you sing it with your body, then you’ll be all right.

Luciano Pavarotti

Above: Luciano Pavarotti (1935 – 2007)

The creation, performance, significance, and even the definition of music vary according to culture and social context.

Indeed, throughout history, some new forms or styles of music have been criticized as “not being music“, including Beethoven’s Grosse Fuge string quartet in 1825, early jazz in the beginning of the 1900s and hardcore punk in the 1980s.

Above: Ludwig van Beethoven (1770 – 1827)







Missed the Saturday dance
Heard they crowded the floor
Couldn’t bear it without you
Don’t get around much anymore

I thought I’d visit the club
Got as far as the door
They’d have asked me about you
Don’t get around much anymore

Darling, I guess that my mind’s more at ease
Oh, nevertheless, why stir up memories?

I’ve been invited on dates
Might have gone, but what for?
It’s awfully different without you
Don’t get around much anymore

Darling, I guess, my mind’s more at ease
But nevertheless, why stir up memories?

Been invited on dates
I might’ve gone, but what for?
It’s awfully different without you
Don’t get around much anymore

Oh baby, don’t get around much anymore

Duke Ellington

Above: Duke Ellington (1899 – 1974)

There are many types of music, including popular music, traditional music, art music, music written for religious ceremonies, and work songs such as chanteys.

Music ranges from strictly organized compositions — such as Classical music symphonies from the 1700s and 1800s — through to spontaneously played improvisational music such as jazz and avant garde styles of chance-based contemporary music from the 20th and 21st centuries.

Music can be divided into genres (e.g., country music) and genres can be further divided into subgenres (e.g., alternative country and country pop are two of the many country subgenres), although the dividing lines and relationships between music genres are often subtle, sometimes open to personal interpretation, and occasionally controversial.

Above: Hank Williams (1923 – 1953)

I’ve known a few guys who thought they were pretty smart
But you’ve got being right down to an art
You think you’re a genius
You drive me up the wall
You’re a regular original know-it-all

Oh-oo-oh, you think you’re special
Oh-oo-oh, you think you’re something else
Okay, so you’re a rocket scientist

That don’t impress me much
So you got the brains, but have you got the touch?
Now don’t get me wrong, I think you’re alright
But that won’t keep me warm in the middle of the night
That don’t impress me much
Ah-huh, yeah yeah

I never knew a guy who carried a mirror in his pocket
And a comb up his sleeve – just in case
And all that extra hold gel in your hair oughtta lock it
‘Cause Heaven forbid it should fall out of place

Oh-oo-oh, you think you’re special
Oh-oo-oh, you think you’re something else
Okay, so you’re Brad Pitt

Above: Brad Pitt

That don’t impress me much
So you got the looks, but have you got the touch?
Now don’t get me wrong, yeah, I think you’re alright
But that won’t keep me warm in the middle of the night
That don’t impress me much
Yeah!

You’re one of those guys that likes to shine his machine
You’ll make me take off my shoes before you let me get in
I can’t believe you kiss your car good night
Now c’mon, baby, tell me – you must be joking right!

Oh-oo-oh, you think you’re special
Oh-oo-oh, you think you’re something else
Okay, so you’ve got a car

That don’t impress me much
So you got the moves, but have you got the touch?
Now don’t get me wrong, yeah, I think you’re alright
But that won’t keep me warm in the middle of the night

That don’t impress me much
Oh, now you think you’re cool, but have you got the touch?
Now don’t get me wrong, yeah, I think you’re alright
But that won’t keep me warm on the long, cold, lonely night
That don’t impress me much
Uh-huh, yeah yeah

Okay, so what do you think, you’re Elvis or something?

Above: Elvis Presley (1935 – 1977)


That don’t impress me much
Oh no
That don’t impress me much
Oh no
Yeah, woo!
Oh no, alright, alright
You’re Tarzan


Captain Kirk maybe?

Above: William Shatner as Captain James T. Kirk of the Starship Enterprise, Star Trek (The Original Series)


John Wayne?

Above: Marion Robert Morrison (aka John Wayne) (1907 – 1979)


Whatever, nuh-uh
That don’t impress me much

Shania Twain

For example, it can be hard to draw the line between some early 1980s hard rock and heavy metal.

New York, New York, is everything they say
And no place that I’d rather be
Where else can you do a half a million things
All at a quarter to three

When they play their music, ooh that modern music
They like it with a lot of style
But it’s still that same old back beat rhythm
That really really drives ’em wild

Above: Manhattan, New York City

They say the heart of rock and roll is still beating
And from what I’ve seen I believe ’em
Now the old boy may be barely breathing
But the heart of rock and roll, heart of rock and roll is still beating

LA, Hollywood and the Sunset Strip
Is something everyone should see
Neon lights and the pretty pretty girls
All dressed so scantily

When they play their music, that hard rock music
They like it with a lot of flash
But it’s still that same old back beat rhythm
That really kicks ’em in the….

Above: Los Angeles, California

They say the heart of rock and roll is still beating
And from what I’ve seen I believe ’em
Now the old boy may be barely breathing
But the heart of rock and roll, heart of rock and roll is still beating

DC, San Antone and the Liberty Town, Boston and Baton Rouge
Tulsa, Austin, Oklahoma City, Seattle, San Francisco, too
Everywhere there’s music, real live music, bands with a million styles
But it’s still that some old rock and roll music
That really really drives ’em wild

Above: National Mall and the Lincoln Memorial, Washington DC

Above: San Antonio, Texas

Above: The liberty town, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Above: Boston, Massachusetts

Above: Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Above: Tulsa, Oklahoma

Above: Austin, Texas

Above: Images of Oklahoma City, Oklahoma

Above: Seattle, Washington

Above: San Francisco, California

They say the heart of rock and roll is still beating
And from what I’ve seen I believe ’em
Now the old boy may be barely breathing
But the heart of rock and roll, heart of rock and roll is still beating

In Cleveland
Detroit!!
Huh, heart of rock and roll

Above: Images of Cleveland, Ohio

Above: Detroit, Michigan

Huey Lewis and the News

Within the arts, music may be classified as a performing art, a fine art, or as an auditory art.

Music may be played or sung and heard live at a rock concert or orchestra performance, heard live as part of a dramatic work (a music theatre show or opera), or it may be recorded and listened to on a radio, MP3 player, CD player, smartphone or as film score or TV show.

Above: Metallica

In many cultures, music is an important part of people’s way of life, as it plays a key role in religious rituals, rite of passage ceremonies (e.g., graduation and marriage), social activities (e.g., dancing) and cultural activities ranging from amateur karaoke singing to playing in an amateur funk band or singing in a community choir.

Above: James Brown (1933 – 2006)

I’m nothing special, in fact I’m a bit of a bore
If I tell a joke, you’ve probably heard it before
But I have a talent, a wonderful thing
‘Cause everyone listens when I start to sing
I’m so grateful and proud
All I want is to sing it out loud

So I say
Thank you for the music, the songs I’m singing
Thanks for all the joy they’re bringing
Who can live without it? I ask in all honesty
What would life be?
Without a song or a dance, what are we?
So I say thank you for the music
For giving it to me

Mother says I was a dancer before I could walk
She says I began to sing long before I could talk
And I’ve often wondered, how did it all start?
Who found out that nothing can capture a heart
Like a melody can?
Well, whoever it was, I’m a fan

So I say
Thank you for the music, the songs I’m singing
Thanks for all the joy they’re bringing
Who can live without it? I ask in all honesty
What would life be?
Without a song or a dance what are we?
So I say thank you for the music
For giving it to me

I’ve been so lucky, I am the girl with golden hair
I wanna sing it out to everybody
What a joy, what a life, what a chance

Thank you for the music, the songs I’m singing
Thanks for all the joy they’re bringing
Who can live without it, I ask in all honesty
What would life be?
Without a song or a dance what are we?
So I say thank you for the music
For giving it to me

So I say
Thank you for the music, for giving it to me

ABBA

People may make music as a hobby, like a teen playing cello in a youth orchestra, or work as a professional musician or singer.

The music industry includes the individuals who create new songs and musical pieces (such as songwriters and composers), individuals who perform music (which include orchestra, jazz band and rock band musicians, singers and conductors), individuals who record music (music producers and sound engineers), individuals who organize concert tours, and individuals who sell recordings, sheet music, and scores to customers.

Even once a song or piece has been performed, music critics, music journalists and music scholars may assess and evaluate the piece and its performance.

I’ve been alive forever
And I wrote the very first song
I put the words and the melodies together
I am music
And I write the songs

I write the songs that make the whole world sing
I write the songs of love and special things
I write the songs that make the young girls cry
I write the songs, I write the songs

My home lies deep within you
And I’ve got my own place in your soul
Now when I look out through your eyes
I’m young again, even tho’ I’m very old

I write the songs that make the whole world sing
I write the songs of love and special things
I write the songs that make the young girls cry
I write the songs, I write the songs

Oh, my music makes you dance and gives you spirit to take a chance
And I wrote some rock ‘n roll so you can move
Music fills your heart, well that’s a real fine place to start
It’s from me, it’s for you
It’s from you, it’s for me
It’s a worldwide symphony

I write the songs that make the whole world sing
I write the songs of love and special things
I write the songs that make the young girls cry
I write the songs, I write the songs

I write the songs that make the whole world sing
I write the songs of love and special things
I write the songs that make the young girls cry
I write the songs, I write the songs

I am music and I write the songs

Barry Manilow

I have been blessed by great music that evening and throughout my life.

I have visited many a music store – I am of an age that finds no enjoyment in downloading music from the Net. – and there I find a paradise.

The ears are caressed by sound, the eyes are dazzled by selection, the mind amused, the mood mellow.

Above: Scene from High Fidelity – John Cusack and Jack Black

In Turkey, surprisingly against prejudices, it is more difficult to find music stores here than in countries more “civilized“.

What, I am asked, you want to buy a CD player?!

A cassette player?!

Have you not heard of downloading?

Yes, and I still prefer the music store.

I met a girl who sang the blues and I asked her for some happy news
But she just smiled and turned away
I went down to the sacred store where I’d heard the music years before
But the man there said the music wouldn’t play

And in the streets, the children screamed
The lovers cried, and the poets dreamed
But not a word was spoken
The church bells all were broken

And the three men I admire most
The Father, Son and the Holy Ghost
They caught the last train for the coast
The day the music died

American Pie“, Don McLean

Drove downtown in the rain, 9:30 on a Tuesday night,
Just to check out the late-night record shop.
Call it impulsive, call it compulsive, call it insane,
But when I’m surrounded I just can’t stop.

Brian Wilson“, Barenaked Ladies

It has been open since 2020 and I would love to visit it, even though the group the store features is not one of my desert island favourite groups.

I saw her today at the reception
A glass of wine in her hand
I knew she would meet her connection
At her feet was her footloose man

No, you can’t always get what you want
You can’t always get what you want
You can’t always get what you want
But if you try sometime you’ll find
You get what you need

And I went down to the demonstration
To get my fair share of abuse
Singing, “We’re gonna vent our frustration
If we don’t we’re gonna blow a fifty-amp fuse”
Sing it to me, honey

You can’t always get what you want
You can’t always get what you want
You can’t always get what you want
But if you try sometimes, well, you just might find
You get what you need

I went down to the Chelsea drugstore
To get your prescription filled
I was standing in line with Mr. Jimmy
And, man, did he look pretty ill
We decided that we would have a soda
My favorite flavor, cherry red
I sung my song to Mr. Jimmy
Yeah, and he said one word to me, and that was “dead”
I said to him

You can’t always get what you want, well no
You can’t always get what you want. I tell you, baby
You can’t always get what you want, no
But if you try sometimes you just might find, uh, mm
You get what you need, oh yeah, woo!

I saw her today at the reception
In her glass was a bleeding man
She was practiced at the art of deception
Well, I could tell by her blood-stained hands, sing it

You can’t always get what you want, yeah
You can’t always get what you want, ooh yeah, child
You can’t always get what you want
But if you try sometimes you just might find
You just might find
You get what you need, ah yeah
Ah baby, woo!

You Can’t Always Get What You Want“, Honky Tonk Women, The Rolling Stones

It is a place where the committed fan can consider spending £535 on a Rolling Stones-themed crystal decanter, £110 on a “Stones red” bomber jacket, or £15 on a face mask made from cotton or, for £10 more, silk.

Big tongues are everywhere, mostly red, occasionally leopard print.

Above: Rolling Stones Shop, Carnaby Street, London, England

I can’t get no satisfaction
I can’t get no satisfaction
‘Cause I try, and I try, and I try, and I try
I can’t get no, I can’t get no

When I’m driving in my car
When a man come on the radio
He’s telling me more and more
About some useless information
Supposed to fire my imagination

I can’t get no, oh, no, no, no, hey, hey, hey
That’s what I say
I can’t get no satisfaction
I can’t get no satisfaction
‘Cause I try, and I try, and I try, and I try
I can’t get no, I can’t get no

When I’m watchin’ my TV
And a man comes on and tells me
How white my shirts can be
But, he can’t be a man ’cause he doesn’t smoke
The same cigarettes as me

I can’t get no, oh, no, no, no, hey, hey, hey
That’s what I say
I can’t get no satisfaction
I can’t get no girl reaction
‘Cause I try, and I try, and I try, and I try
I can’t get no, I can’t get no

When I’m ridin’ ’round the world
And I’m doin’ this and I’m signin’ that
And I’m tryin’ to make some girl, who tells me
Baby, better come back maybe next week
Can’t you see I’m on a losing streak?
I can’t get no, oh, no, no, no, hey, hey, hey
That’s what I say
I can’t get no, I can’t get no
I can’t get no satisfaction, no satisfaction
No satisfaction, no satisfaction
I can’t get no

The Rolling Stones

The venue is the world’s first permanent Rolling Stones shop, which will open in the spiritual home of all things cool, Carnaby Street in London’s West End.

It sells everything from T-shirts, hoodies and denim jackets to key rings, guitar plectrums and water bottles.

All with a Rolling Stones brand.

Please allow me to introduce myself
I’m a man of wealth and taste
I’ve been around for long long years
Stole a million men’s souls and faith

And I was ’round when Jesus Christ
Had his moment of doubt and pain
Made damn sure that Pilate
Washed his hands and sealed his fate

Above: Christ in the Wilderness, Ivan Kramskoy

Pleased to meet you
Hope you guess my name
But what’s puzzling you
Is the nature of my game

Stuck around St. Petersburg
When I saw it was a time for a change
Killed the Tsar and his ministers
Anastasia screamed in vain

Above: St. Petersburg riot, 4 July 1917

Above: Russian Tsar Nicholas II (1868 – 1918)

Above: Grand Duchess Anastasia Nikolaevna of Russia (1901 – 1918)

I rode a tank
Held a general’s rank
When the Blitzkrieg raged
And the bodies stank

Pleased to meet you
Hope you guess my name, oh yeah
Ah, what’s puzzling you
Is the nature of my game, oh yeah

I watched with glee
While your kings and queens
Fought for ten decades
For the gods they made

I shouted out
“Who killed the Kennedys?”
When, after all,
It was you and me

Above: John F. Kennedy (1917 – 1963)

Above: Robert F. Kennedy (1925 – 1968)

Let me please introduce myself
I’m a man of wealth and taste
And I laid traps for troubadours
Who get killed before they reached Bombay

Above: Mumbai (formerly Bombay), India

Pleased to meet you
Hope you guessed my name, oh yeah
But what’s puzzling you
Is the nature of my game, oh yeah, get down, baby

Just as every cop is a criminal
And all the sinners saints
As heads is tails
Just call me Lucifer
‘Cause I’m in need of some restraint

Above: Illustration of Lucifer, Inferno, Dante Alligheri

So if you meet me
Have some courtesy
Have some sympathy, and some taste
Use all your well-learned politeness
Or I’ll lay your soul to waste, mm yeah

Pleased to meet you
Hope you guessed my name, mm yeah
But what’s puzzling you
Is the nature of my game, mm mean it, get down

Woo, who
Oh yeah, get on down
Oh yeah
Aah yeah

Tell me baby, what’s my name?
Tell me honey, can ya guess my name?
Tell me baby, what’s my name?
I tell you one time, you’re to blame

What’s my name
Tell me, baby, what’s my name?
Tell me, sweetie, what’s my name?

Sympathy for the Devil“, The Rolling Stones

The store is a collaboration between the band and the merchandising company Bravado, which has previously opened pop-up stores with merchandise for acts including Kanye West, Billie Eilish and Slipknot.

She take my money when I’m in need
Yeah, she’s a triflin’ friend indeed
Oh, she’s a gold digger
Way over town, that digs on me

Jamie Foxx and Kayne West

You ain’t nothin’ but a lost cause
And this ain’t nothin’ like it once was
I know you think you’re such an outlaw
But you got no job

Billie Eilish

A season at an end
A harvest of seclusion and regret
The burning can begin
A period of ash is what you get
The quiet is a curse
But my respect was shown to you by force
Another day too late
Another neck too eager for the rope
….

Yesterday was hard
Tomorrow’s just a promise of the same
When friends have all subscribed
To spitting on the ground to say my name
Fire on the ice
December in the summer kills the heart
Your hate is no surprise
I guess I have to die to play my part
…..

Hold the weight, never trust the one beside you
Carried away, you know just as much as I do
Hold the weight, do it all for what you really love
Carried away, use you up until you’ve had enough
….

True victims and survivors learn to make war
Don’t wanna be the sad man singing anymore
I did it all wrong, so I’d get it all right
We’re wasting all the candles, the dead need no light

A Liar’s Funeral, We Are Not Your Kind, Slipknot

David Boyne, Bravado’s managing director, said the aim was to create something that was more than a shop.

The number one objective was to make it experiential.“, he said.

It is about giving the fan, the customer, a journey of discovery.

This is our first permanent flagship store.

We are very proud with what we have delivered.

Above: David Boyne

The shop includes a glass floor featuring Stones song lyrics, screens showing footage of the band on tour, and fitting rooms with album artwork from “Exile on Main Street” and “Some Girls“.

When your spine is cracking and your hands they shake;
Heart is bursting and your butt’s going to break;
Woman’s cussing, you can hear her scream;
Feel like murder in the first degree
Ain’t nobody slowing down no way;
Everybody’s stepping on their accelerator;
Don’t matter where you are;
Everybody’s going to need a ventilator

Ventilator Blues“, Exile on Main Street, The Rolling Stones

I’ll never be your beast of burden
My back is broad, but it’s a-hurting
All I want is for you to make love to me
I’ll never be your beast of burden
I’ve walked for miles, my feet are hurting
All I want is for you to make love to me

Am I hard enough?
Am I rough enough?
Am I rich enough?
I’m not too blind to see

I’ll never be your beast of burden
So let’s go home and draw the curtains
Music on the radio
Come on, baby, make sweet love to me
….

I’ll never be your beast of burden
I’ll never be your beast of burden
Never, never, never, never, never, never, never be
I’ll never be your beast of burden
I’ve walked for miles, my feet are hurting
All I want is you to make love to me, yeah
I don’t need no beast of burden
I need no fussing, I need no nursing
Never, never, never, never, never, never, never be

Beast of Burden“, Some Girls, The Rolling Stones

At the front of the shop is a red metal sculpture that true diehards may recognize as being based on the opening of the 1966 track “Paint It Black“.

The background music is, of course, by the Stones.

I see a red door
And I want it painted black
No colors anymore
I want them to turn black

I see the girls walk by
Dressed in their summer clothes
I have to turn my head
Until my darkness goes

I see a line of cars
And they’re all painted black
With flowers and my love
Both never to come back

I’ve seen people turn their heads
And quickly look away
Like a newborn baby
It just happens everyday

I look inside myself
And see my heart is black
I see my red door
I must have it painted black

Maybe then, I’ll fade away
And not have to face the facts
It’s not easy facing up
When your whole world is black

No more will my green sea
Go turn a deeper blue
I could not foresee this thing
Happening to you

If I look hard enough
Into the setting sun
My love will laugh with me
Before the morning comes

I see a red door
And I want it painted black
No colors anymore
I want them to turn black

I see the girls walk by
Dressed in their summer clothes
I have to turn my head
Until my darkness goes

I wanna see it painted
Painted black
Black as night
Black as coal
I wanna see the sun
Blotted out from the sky
I wanna see it painted, painted, painted
Painted black, yeah

The Rolling Stones

Some will say that opening a bricks-and-mortar retail operation now, as the pandemic persists, is very risky.

Time will tell.“, said Boyle.

For us, it is about taking a really powerful, positive message to the marketplace.

It’s a cool store.

The store has teamed up with the French luxury brand Baccarat for a range of Rolling Stones glassware, which includes the decanter, tumblers and wine glasses.

John Pasche, who created the Rolling Stones’ now instantly recognisable lips and tongue logo – first used on the “Sticky Fingers” LP in 1971 – has created limited edition artworks, on sale from £1,195.

Childhood living is easy to do
The things you wanted I bought them for you
Graceless lady, you know who I am
You know I can’t let you slide through my hands

Wild horses couldn’t drag me away
Wild, wild horses, couldn’t drag me away

I watched you suffer a dull aching pain
Now you decided to show me the same
No sweeping exits or offstage lines
Could make me feel bitter or treat you unkind

Wild horses couldn’t drag me away
Wild, wild horses, couldn’t drag me away

I know I dreamed you a sin and a lie
I have my freedom but I don’t have much time
Faith has been broken, tears must be cried
Let’s do some living after we die

Wild horses couldn’t drag me away
Wild, wild horses, we’ll ride them some day

Wild Horses“, Sticky Fingers, The Rolling Stones

The band may have a combined age of 305, but Boyne insisted they were as popular and relevant as ever.

They are definitely not has-beens.

I’m a ghost
Livin’ in a ghost town
I’m a ghost
Livin’ in a ghost town

You can come look for me
But I can’t be found
You can search for me
I had to go underground

Life was so beautiful
Then we all got locked down
Feel like a ghost
Living in a ghost town, yeah

Once this place was hummin’
And the air was full of drummin’
The sound of cymbals crashin’
Glasses were all smashin’
Trumpets were all screamin’
Saxophones were blarin’
Nobody was carin’
If it’s day or not

Woah, woah

I’m a ghost
Livin’ in a ghost town
I’m goin’ nowhere
Shut up all alone
So much time to lose
Just starin’ at my phone

Every night I am dreamin’
That you’ll come and creep in my bed
Please let this be over
Not stuck in a world without end
My friend

Woah
Woah, woah

Preachers were all preachin’
Charities beseechin’
Politicians dealin’
Thieves were happy stealin’
Widows were all weepin’
There’s no beds for us to sleep in
Always had the feelin’
It will all come tumblin’ down

I’m a ghost
Livin’ in a ghost town
You can look for me
But I can’t be found

Woah

We’re all livin’ in a ghost town (Woah)
Oh, livin’ in a ghost town (Woah)
We were so beautiful (Woah)
I was your man about town (Woah)

Livin’ in this ghost town (Woah)
Ain’t havin’ any fun (Woah)
If I wanna party (Woah)
It’s a party of one (Woah, woah)

Living in a Ghost Town“, The Rolling Stones

And that is exactly what this post is.

As I listen to the music, the music embraces me, caresses me, holds me to its bosom.

It is a party of one, a celebration of life, as the world slowly emerges from death by disease and returns to the destruction of war in faraway places with strange sounding names.

We don’t read and write poetry because it’s cute.

We read and write poetry because we are members of the human race.

And the human race is filled with passion.

And medicine, law, business, engineering, these are noble pursuits and necessary to sustain life.

But poetry, beauty, romance, love, these are what we stay alive for.

To quote from Whitman:

“O me! O life!

Of the questions of these recurring

Of the endless trains of the faithless

Of cities filled with the foolish

What good amid these, O me, O life?

Answer:

That you are here – that life exists, and identity.

That the powerful play goes on and you may contribute a verse.

Above: Walt Whitman (1819 – 1892)

That the powerful play goes on and you may contribute a verse.

What will your verse be?

Dead Poets Society, N.H. Kleinbaum

Above: Nancy H. Kleinbaum

Music is part of that powerful play.

Music is poetry, beauty, romance, love.

Thank Heaven for the music.

Above: Praying Hands, Albrecht Dürer

Here in Eskişehir, the sole place I have found laughingly calling itself a “music store” is the D & R Music and Book Store.

Music that I have the machinery – a CD/cassette player – to play in my apartment is limited to a set of shelves nearly invisible beside the store’s magazine selection.

In fairness, there is much in this city I have yet to explore.

But, as aforementioned, folks here look at me oddly when I say I am seeking a music CD of such-and-such artist or group.

My gym’s TV permanently placed on Channel Nr1 Türk has been playing the same selection of music since I joined it last year.

Tiesto’s The Business is permanently branded in my brain.

Let’s get down, let’s get down to business
Give you one more night, one more night to get this
We’ve had a million, million nights just like this
So let’s get down, let’s get down to business

Mama, please don’t worry ’bout me
‘Cause I’m about to let my heart speak
My friends keep telling me to leave this
So let’s get down, let’s get down to business

Back and forth, back and forth with the bullshit
I know I said it before, I don’t mean it
It’s been a while since I had your attention
So it might hurt to hear this

Dreams we have don’t ever fall away
We can’t leave ’em if we stay the same
And I can’t do this for another day
So let’s get down, let’s get down to business

Let’s get down, let’s get down to business
Give you one more night, one more night to get this
We’ve had a million, million nights just like this
So let’s get down, let’s get down to business

In my apartment no one tells me what music to play.

I have over 300 CDs (and some cassettes) I have had shipped from Switzerland.

Above: Logo of the Turkish National Post

I have YouTube and Spotify and now I have the option of the F-Spot and the bi-monthly performances of G. and his band.

Above: Logo of Spotify

I have radio through the Internet.

I live alone, but I am never lonely.

I have my books
And my poetry to protect me
I am shielded in my armor
Hiding in my room safe within my womb
I touch no one and no one touches me
I am a rock I am an island

And a rock feels no pain
And an island never cries

I Am a Rock“, Simon and Garfunkel

B.B. Bumble and the Stingers, Mott the Hoople, Ray Charles Singers
Lonnie Mack and twangin’ Eddie, here’s my ring, we’re goin’ steady
Take it easy, take me higher, liar liar, house on fire
Loco-motion, Poco, Passion, Deeper Purple, Satisfaction
Baby baby, gotta gotta, gimme gimme, gettin’ hotter
Sammy’s cookin’, Lesley Gore, Ritchie Valens, end of story
Mahavishnu, Fujiyama, Kama Sutra, Rama Lama
Richard Perry, Spector, Barry, Righteous, Archies, Nilsson Harry
Shimmy Shimmy Ko-Ko Bop it, Fats is back and Finger Poppin’

Above: The band Mott the Hoople

Above: Ray Charles (1930 – 2004)

Above: Lonnie Mack (1941 – 2016)

Above: Duane Eddy

Above: The band Poco

Above: The band Deep Purple

Above: Sam Cooke (1931 – 1964)

Above: Leslie Goldstein (aka Leslie Gore) (1946 – 2016)

Above: Richard Valenzuela (aka Ritchie Valens) (1941 – 1959)







Above: Mahavishnu Orchestra

Above: Richard Perry

Above: Phil Spector (1939 – 2021)

Above: Jeff Barry

Above: Barry White (1944 – 2003)

Above: The Righteous Brothers – Bobby Hatfield and Bill Medley

Above: Harry Nilsson (1941 – 1994)

Above: Antoine Domino (aka Fats Domino) (1928 – 2017)

Life is a rock
But the radio rolled me
Got to turn it up louder
So my DJ told me
(Woo-woo)

Life is a rock
But the radio rolled me (Life is a rock)
At the end of my rainbow (Woo-woo, life is a rock)
Lies a golden oldie

FM, AM, hits are clickin’ while the clock is tock-a-tickin’
Friends and Romans, salutations, Brenda and the Tabulations
Carly Simon, Noddy Holder, Rolling Stones, centerfolder
Johnny Cash and Johnny Rivers, can’t stop now, I got the shivers
Mungo Jerry, Peter Peter, Paul and Paula, Mary Mary
Dr. John the Nightly Tripper, Doris Day and Jack the Ripper
Gotta go so, gotta swelter, Leon Russell, Gimme Shelter
Miracles in Smokey places, slide guitars and Fender basses
Mushroom omelet, Bonnie Bramlett, Wilson Pickett, stomp and kick it

Above: The band FM

Above: Carly Simon

Above: Neville Holder (aka Noddy Holder)

Above: The Rolling Stones

Above: Johnny Cash (1932 – 2003)

Above: Johnny Rivers

Above: The band Mungo Jerry

Above: Peter, Paul and Mary

Above: Malcolm John Rebbennack Jr. (aka Dr. John the Night Tripper) (1941 – 2019)







Above: Doris Kappelhof (aka Doris Day) (1922 – 2019)

Above: Claude Leon Bridges (aka Leon Russell) (1942 – 2016)








Above: Smokey Robinson and the Miracles

Above: Bonnie Bramlett

Above: Wilson Pickett (1941 – 2006)

Life is a rock
But the radio
Life is a rock
But the radio, woo
(Woo-woo-woo)
(Woo-woo-woo)

Arthur Janov primal screamin’, Hawkins Jay and Dale and Ronnie
Kukla, Fran and Norman Okla, Denver John and Osmond Donny
J.J. Cale and ZZ Top and L.L. Bean and De De Dinah
David Bowie, Steely Dan, sing it prouder, C.C. Rider
Edgar Winter, Joanie Sommers, Ides of March, Johnny Thunders
Eric Clapton, pedal wah-wah, Stephen Foster, doo-dah, doo-dah
Good Vibrations, Help Me Rhonda, Surfer Girl and Little Honda
Tighter tighter, honey honey, sugar sugar, yummy yummy
CBS and Warner Brothers, RCA and all the others

Above: Arthur Janov (1924 – 2017)

Above: Jay Hawkins (1929 – 2000)

Above: Dale Hawkins (1936 – 2010)

Above: Ronnie Hawkins

Above: Kukla, Fran and Ollie

Above: Oklahoma University corner, Norman, Oklahoma

Above: Henry John Deutschendorf Jr. (aka John Denver) (1943 – 1997)

Above: Donnie Osmond

Above: John Weldon Cale (aka J. J. Cale) (1938 – 2013)

Above: The band ZZ Top

Above: David Robert Jones (aka David Bowie) (1947 – 2016)

Above: The band Steely Dan

Above: Edgar Winter

Above: Joan Drost (aka Joanie Sommers)






Above: The band The Ides of March

Above: John Anthony Genzale (aka Johnny Thunders) (1952 – 1991)

Above: Eric Clapton

Above: A wah-wah pedal for electric guitar sound effects

Above: “The father of American music” Stephen Foster (1826 – 1864)

Above: The band Bonzo Dog Doo Dah

Above: Logo of the Radio Corporation of America (1919 – 1986)

Life is a rock
But the radio rolled me (Life is a rock)
Got to turn it up louder (Woo-woo, life is a rock)
So my DJ told me (Life is a rock)
(Whoa-whoa, whoa-whoa)

Life is a rock
But the radio rolled me (Life is a rock) yeah
At the end of my rainbow (Woo-woo)
Lies a golden oldie
(Woo-woo, woo-woo, woo-woo-woo)


Listen, remember, they’re playin’ our song
(Woo-woo, woo-woo, woo-woo-woo)

(Please, Mister, please, don’t play B-17
It was our song, it was his song, but it’s over
Please, Mr., please, if you know what I mean
I don’t ever wanna hear that song again
)

Rock it, sock it, Alan Freed me, Murray Kaufman tried to lead me
Fish and swim and Boston Monkey, make it bad and play it funky
(I want to take you higher)

Above: Rock ’em Sock ’em Robots

Above: Alan Freed (1921 – 1965)

Above: Murray Kaufman (aka Murray the K) (1922 – 1982)

Above: Derek William Dick (aka Fish)

Above: Swim dance

Above: The band Boston

Freddie King and Albert King and B.B. King and frolicking
Get it on and not to worry, Pappalardi, Hale and Hearty, Yes
(Baby, baby, baby, Light My Fire)
(Celebrate, celebrate, dance to the music)

Above: Freddie King (1934 – 1976)

Above: Albert Nelson (aka Albert King) (1923 – 1992)

Above: Riley B. King (aka B. B. King) (1925 – 2015)

Above: Felix Pappalardi (1939 – 1983)

Above: Stan Laurel (1890 – 1965) and Oliver Hardy (1892 – 1957)

Above: The band Yes

There’s a perfect more than you would carry, words of Randy Newman
1-2-3, so long, Sophie, Anita, Freda
Aretha
(I wanna take you higher)
(Celebrate, celebrate, dance to the music)

Above: Randy Newman

Above: Sophie Tucker (1886 – 1966)

Above: Aretha Franklin (1942 – 2018)

Tito Puente, Boffalongo, Cuba, War and even Mongo
Lay it down while it’s hurtin’, Herbie’s Brass
(Baby, baby, baby, Light My Fire)
(Celebrate, celebrate, dance to the music)
(Baby, Everything is Alright, Uptight, Out of Sight)
Whoa

Above: Tito Puente (1923 – 2000)

Above: Cuba Gooding Sr. (1944 – 2017)

Above: The band War

Above: Mongo Santamaria (1917 – 2003)

California, Beatlemania, New York City, Transylvania
S&G, V&C, Bobby Vee and SRO, yeah
(Celebrate, celebrate, dance to the music)
(Baby, Everything is Alright, Uptight, Outta Sight)

Above: The Beatles

Above: Warner Bros. short film Transylvania 6-5000

Above: (Paul) Simon (right) and (Art) Garfunkel (left)

Above: Stanley Robert Vinton (aka Bobby Vinton)

Conway Twitty, do-wah-diddy, Conway Twitty, do-wah-diddy

Above: Harold Lloyd Jenkins (aka Conway Twitty) (1933 – 1993)





I have my favourite tunes.

I have my favourite books.

Life is good.

What’s the matter with the clothes I’m wearing?
Can’t you tell that your tie’s too wide?
Maybe I should buy some old tab collars?
Welcome back to the age of jive.
Where have you been hidin’ out lately, honey?
You can’t dress trashy till you spend a lot of money.
Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the car I’m driving?
Can’t you tell that it’s out of style?
Should I get a set of white wall tires?
Are you gonna cruise the miracle mile?
Nowadays you can’t be too sentimental
Your best bet’s a true baby blue Continental.
Hot funk, cool punk, even if it’s old junk
It’s still rock and roll to me.

Oh, it doesn’t matter what they say in the papers
‘Cause it’s always been the same old scene.
There’s a new band in town
But you can’t get the sound from a story in a magazine…
Aimed at your average teen

How about a pair of pink sidewinders
And a bright orange pair of pants?
You could really be a Beau Brummell baby
If you just give it half a chance.
Don’t waste your money on a new set of speakers,
You get more mileage from a cheap pair of sneakers.
Next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the crowd I’m seeing?
Don’t you know that they’re out of touch?
Should I try to be a straight ‘A’ student?
If you are then you think too much.
Don’t you know about the new fashion honey?
All you need are looks and a whole lotta money.
It’s the next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock & roll to me.
Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

But one does not stop buying books simply because one has no more shelves.

One does not stop buying music when there is an opportunity to do so.

I hope one day to return to London to see all those record shops that have opened and all those that remain.

And I will linger in each one for hours.

Wild horses will not drag me away.

Call it impulsive, call it compulsive, call it insane, but when I’m surrounded by music I just can’t stop.

I teach for a living, but literature and music is what makes life worth living.

I hope Heaven has music, but where there is music I am in Heaven.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Mark Brown, “You can always get what you want“, The Times, 8 September 2020 / N.K. Kleinbaum, Dead Poets Society

Canada Slim and the Gates of Heaven

Eskişehir, Turkey, Saturday 9 April 2022 (Curmartesi 9 Nisan 2022 CE)(Ramadan 9, 1443 Anno Hegirae)

Strange days for me recently.

Turkey has entered into the 9th month of the Islamic calendar, Ramadan, with Turks all prepared to observe the month-long fast.

Mornings begin with drumming men marching down main streets before sunset.

The fasting, started in the early hours of Saturday 2 April, begins with a predawn meal named sahur and ends with iftar, the meal consumed after sunset.

Green lights appear on the local camii (mosque) to signal that iftar may begin.

On the first day of Ramadan, the eastern provinces of Iğdir and Hakkari had the earliest iftar at 1835 hours, while the northwestern provinces of Çanakkale and Edirne were the last to have iftar at 1946 hours.

Above: Ağri Mountain from Iğdir plain, Turkey

Above: Hakkari City, Turkey

Above: Waterfront, Çanakkale, Turkey

Above: Selimiye Mosque and the statue of architect Mimar Koca Sinan, Edirne, Turkey

Northern Sinop is the city that witnesses the longest time through Ramadan.

Believers in Sinop fasted for 14 hours 27 minutes on Saturday and will fast for 15 hours and 56 minutes on the last day of Ramadan.

Above: Sinop, Turkey

The southern province of Hatay has the shortest fasting time with 14 hours and 12 minutes on Saturday and will fast for 15 hours and 22 minutes on the last day of Ramadan.

Above: Bazaar, Antakya, Hatay Province, Turkey

The month of Ramadan will end on 30 April, following which Eid al-Fitr celebrations will start.

With the start of Ramadan, many nutritionists in Turkey have come to the forefront of public attention to give “safur and iftar tips” to fasting believers.

Above: Flag of Turkey

People should eat a protein-rich meal at sahur, mostly dairy products should be preferred.“, nutritionist Baran Mert told Demirören News Agency.

According to Mert, one should drink a minimum of two to two and a half litres of water between iftar and sahur.

When asked what to avoid at the start of iftar after hours of fasting, Mert said:

Believers should not eat continuously and rapidly after that.

I was recently asked by a friend whether or not I had a copy of the Qu’ran so he could begin to understand the religion that surrounds him, though his family back home is more interested in the Jewish and Christian sites of Asia Minor.

(I did.

I gave one to him.

Mosques that are tourist attractions often give away copies of the Qu’ran in various languages.

I have always believed that it is ignorant to criticize a religion if one is ignorant of that religion.

Kudos to my friend in seeking to understand the faith that surrounds him in his neighbourhood.)

He also asked if he need worry if he does not fast while Muslims around him do during Ramadan.

Ramadan is the 9th month of the Islamic calendar, observed by Muslims worldwide as a month of fasting (sawm), prayer, reflection and community.

A commemoration of Muhammad’s first revelation, the annual observance of Ramadan is regarded as one of the Five Pillars of Islam and lasts 29 to 30 days, from one sighting of the crescent moon to the next.

Above: “Muhammad, the Messenger of God” inscribed on the gates of the Prophet’s Mosque in Medina, Saudi Arabia

Fasting from dawn to sunset is fard (obligatory) for all adult Muslims who are not acutely or chronically ill, travelling, elderly, breastfeeding, diabetic or menstruating.

The predawn meal is referred to as suhur and the nightly feast that breaks the fast is called iftar.

Although fatwas have been issued declaring that Muslims who live in regions with a midnight sun or polar night should follow the timetable of Mecca, it is common practice to follow the timetable of the closest country in which night can be distinguished from day.

Above: Midnight sun, North Cape, Mageroya Island, Norway

The spiritual rewards (thawab) of fasting are believed to be multiplied during Ramadan.

Accordingly, Muslims refrain not only from food and drink, but also tobacco products, sexual relations and sinful behaviour, devoting themselves instead to salat (prayer) and recitation of the Qu’ran.

(As long as a man is not arrogant about feasting in the presence of those who fast, it is not expected for a non-Muslim to act like a Muslim – at least in this liberal city of Eskişehir – for the significance of the act of fasting can only appreciated by the practitioner of a religion that requires its faithful to fast.

If at this time a restaurant is open to serve customers, then guilt should not be felt if one acts like a customer.

If there is truly concern over what Muslims think, then do your feasting at home.)

Above: Neysen Tevfik Sokak, Eskişehir, Turkey

(It is odd that while other religions fast, during holy celebrations Christians feast.)

Above: Christmas dinner setting

From Magsie Hamilton Little’s The Thing about Islam: Exposing the Myths, Facts and Controversies:

The acts of prayer and pilgrimage help Muslims to focus on their spirituality, as well as binding them together by allowing them to join in a shared religious experience.

Likewise, fasting performs an equally fundamental role.

It is so important to Islam that the early Muslim theologian al-Ghazzali (1058 – 1111) described it as “one quarter of the Muslim faith“.

As such, the act of fasting is known as the 4th pillar of Islam.

It is not simply a matter of giving up food during the daytime.

It is a symbolic act, enabling Muslims to rid their systems of impurities on all levels and so become closer to God.

Above: Tomb of Imam Al-Ghazzali, Tus, Iran

God’s message to Muhammad was that fasting helps us to learn self-restraint.

It is an example set by the Prophet himself who, according to a famous hadith by Bukhari (810 – 870) that describes the frugality of Muhammad, would break his fast with a sip of water and a date.

To this day, many Muslims do the same.

Through the physical act of fasting, Muslims experience the deprivation that the poor bear throughout the year, thus hopefully becoming more sensitive and responsive to their suffering as a result.

This makes crash-dieting in the West, aimed at dropping a dress size in a few weeks, seem rather shameful.

Above: al-Bukhari Mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ramadan, the month of the fast, whose name comes from the Arabic root r-m-d, “the great heat“, from the soaring heat in the deserts of Arabia, in the 9th month of the Muslim calendar.

Above: Arabian Desert

It is special for Muslims as it was during the month that Muhammad received the call to be a prophet.

God Himself instructed that it should be the official month of fasting, in a revelation received after the establishment of the community in Medina.

Although no one knows the exact date of this, in the early days of Islam fasting took place on the 10th day of Muharram.

This is still one of a number of days of voluntary fasting, but today Muhammad’s call to be a prophet is celebrated on 27th Ramadan.

This is a particularly significant night.

Many people stay at their local mosque until long into the night, reading the Qu’ran and praying.

It is thought by some that prayer at this time is particularly powerful, awarding more blessings than prayers at other times.

Above: Hira Cave, Jabal al-Nour Mountain, Saudi Arabia, where, according to Muslim belief, Muhammad received his first revelation

Ramadan is about remembering to take nothing for granted.

It is about removing daily distractions so the mind is better able to focus on closeness with Allah.

On a practical level, this means no eating, drinking, smoking or sex from dawn to sunset for the entire month.

In the wider scheme, while fasting it is especially encouraged that the believer avoids sin, such as lying, violence, greed, lust, slander, anger and evil thoughts.

The fact is about self-discipline.

A Muslim is called to make an extra effort to cultivate a more spiritual outlook.

The observance of Ramadan is regarded a source of blessing and not a time of trial.

Muslims generally look forward to this time of bodily and spiritual cleansing.

They do not view it as being arduous or a chore.

They hold it as a special period that brings them back in touch with the values at the heart of their faith.

They see it as a healthy time, during which rich foods are avoided and their digestive systems can be rested and cleansed.

At Ramadan, Muslims are given the opportunity to master all their natural appetites, mental, spiritual and physical.

It also allows them an opportunity to get together with friends and family, to share their food after the hour of sunset.

According to Islamic tradition, during this time the gates of Heaven are opened, the gates of Hell are closed and Satan is put into chains.

Hence fasting during Ramadan is considered 30 times better than at any other time, although many Muslims do fast at other times, some even on a weekly basis.

Ramadan observances do vary slightly from culture to culture, but most Muslims begin the fast, according to the Qu’ran‘s instruction, at the moment when dawn makes it possible to distinguish “a white thread from a black thread“.

They then break the fast as soon as possible at sunset, eating a light meal later in the evening, with perhaps a final light meal in the early pre-dawn hours before the next morning’s fast begins – but all this depends on local custom and personal preference.

The evening is a time of relaxation, of visiting, prayer and Qu’ran recitation.

Printed Qu’rans divide the text into 30 sections to facilitate reading the whole book during Ramadan.

Most Muslims accomplish this.

Sounds of recitation often punctuate the evening air.

Most individuals perform a voluntary salat (prayer) of 20 rak’as, called taraweeh, sometime after the 5th prescribed prayer of the day.

Most go to the mosque during the evening, especially during the last ten days of the month.

Muslims say that Ramadan demands a certain spiritual attitude towards the body.

The hunger, supplemented by the prohibition on perfume and makeup, brings a Muslim back every year to what is regarded as a more natural state.

Whether it be experiencing the hunger of the less fortunate, expiating one’s sins, forgiving others theirs, renewing contact with one’s nearest and dearest, or simply taming one’s passions, a time of fasting is about reflection and contemplation, a return to the core values of Islam and a reassessment of what it means to be a Muslim.

Since fasting can make people feel weary and weak, great care is taken over the type of food eaten during Ramadan.

The consumption of special dishes at this time dates back to the earliest Islamic days, varying according to culture and region.

In medical Islamic recipes harira is sometimes mentioned and described as being made out of milk, flour and fat, rather than being a broth.

Above: Ramadan Harira

Early Muslim scholars, such as Bukhari and ibn Hanbal, talk of harira made of flour with cooked milk and a broth generally made with bran and meat cut into small pieces and boiled in water.

Above: The Musnad of Imam Ahmad is one of the most famous and extensive hadith books.

(Ḥadīth in Islam refers to what the majority of Muslims believe to be a record of the words, actions, and the silent approval of the Prophet Muhammad as transmitted through chains of narrators.

In other words, the ḥadīth are transmitted reports about what Muhammad said and did.)

Above: Imam Nawawi’s 4th Hadith being taught, Sultan Hassan Mosque Madrassa, Cairo, Egypt

In the Muslim East, al-Baghdadi’s Kitab at-Tabikh, written in the 13th century, gives recipes for meat and flour dishes.

Above: Abd al-Latif al-Baghdadi (1162 – 1231)

In the Muslim West, Ibn Razi gives nine recipes for soups and eight for harira, based on bread reduced to fine crumbs or on moistened flour slowly poured and turned into a broth of plain water and salt with oil, egg or chicken, and flavouring ingredients, such as coriander, ginger, cinnamon, onions and garlic.

Above: Statue of Abu Bakr al-Razi, Persian Scholars Pavilion, United Nations Office, Vienna, Austria

Nowadays, other sweet fruits, such as dried figs and halwa, supplement the dates.

Above: Dried figs

Snacks are sometimes eaten between night-time meals, especially biscuits and tea or coffee.

A sign of the approach of Ramadan in the streets of North Africa is the transformation of doughnut merchants’ shops into delicious halwa stores, through home preparation of halwa is still very common.

Halwa consists of wheat flour, eggs, ground sesame, saffron, olive oil, butter, orange-flower water, vinegar, yeast and a pinch of salt.

These ingredients are mixed, energetically kneaded, allowed to rise, shaped, fried in oil and then soaked in honey before being drained and dusted with sesame seeds.

The resulting halwa is served with soup or with dry cakes and tea or coffee, as a snack.

Above: Halwa

In some cultures, such as in Morocco, special foods are prepared, including those of the s’hur, at which different kinds of pancakes are eaten.

Above: Flag of Morocco

Those of the ftur, harira or soups are used to break the fast.

On the eve of Ramadan, people prepare a honey cake to accompany the soup, known as halwa, sellou or zammita – sweet cereals and other dry cakes eaten as after-dinner snacks.

Similarly, in Afghanistan special sweets and pastries are prepared, such as halwa-e swanak, sheer payna and goash-e fil.

Stocks of these sweet foods are replenished during the 3rd or 4th week of the month.

S’hur marks the start of the fast, whereas Iftar ends it.

Above: Flag of Afghanistan

If Muslims follow Muhammad’s example during Ramadan, one would imagine their body weight to show evidence of it during Ramadan, one would imagine their body weight to show evidence of it by the end of the month.

However, the opposite is often the case.

Some Muslims actually put on weight, owing to the increased consumption of sugar in the dates and all the flour.

Forty years ago, the Iftar consisted of a bowl of soup preceded by “a sweet fruit, a small amount of honey or even just a mouthful of water“.

It was thought that that alone gave the strength of a light meal.

Ben Talha, writing in 1950, spoke of Muslims breaking their fast with toast with butter, or bread soaked in beaten eggs and cooked in butter, something like French toast.

Now, in some circles, Ramadan is an excuse to host lavish parties every night and taste exotic foods not sampled since the last Ramadan.

Whatever cultural variances exist between customs at Ramadan, overall the month is seen by Muslims as a very special time.

There is a feeling of camaraderie.

The fast is a great leveller and brings out the best in everyone, whether rich or poor.

I can say, from my extremely limited point-of-view and experience, that Eskişehir is fairly liberal in its observance of Ramadan.

Folks will or will not fast at this time, depending on the depth of their faith.

Those who feast during this time are not condemned.

Those who fast during this time are not ridiculed.

As a non-Muslim, I maintain the same dietary and non-observance of religious rites as I did before Ramadan arrived.

I respect those that do.

No one shows disrespect towards those who do not.

Above: Kanatli shopping centre, Kızılcıklı Sokak, Eskişehir

I was asked by a Turkish student whether or not I had a copy of the Holy Bible as he wished to understand the religion that so many Americans – our school is called Wall Street English after all – profess to practice.

Above: The Malmesbury Bible

(I did not.

My copies remain back in Switzerland.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Christian copy in Christian countries, Muslim material in Muslim countries.

Not such an intellectual exercise for a man who does not profess to follow any faith, though he respects the rights of those who do.)

Above: Auguste Rodin’s The Thinker, Paris, France

From Andrew Finkel’s Turkey: What Everyone Needs to Know:

Turkey is both a Muslim majority country and an avowed secular state.

Reconciling these two identities has proven complicated.

While Turkey lays claim to serving as a cultural ambassador between faiths in a post 9/11 world, its own domestic political agenda sometimes reflects the emotionally charged debate about the compatibility of Islam with democratic governance.

There is a divide between those who believe Islam is being manipulated by political forces to derail the Western orientation of the Turkish state and those who counter that this Islamic peril is a spectre raised by elements trying to cling to a very undemocratic influence and privilege.

Article 24 of the 1982 Constitution guarantees freedom of religion and conscience, but with the proviso that these freedoms do not threaten the integrity and secular character of the state.

At the same time, the Constitution implicitly recognizes faith as one of the bonds of citizenship by making religious and ethical instruction mandatory during primary and secondary education.

Islam in Turkey remains influenced by the Hanafi School, or what had been Ottoman orthodoxy – the oldest and arguably the most liberal of the four schools of Sunni jurisprudence.

Schools teach the practice rather than comparative religion.

Above: Suleymaniye Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

Turkey’s secularism is not so much a separation of mosque (Camii) and state as it is the state’s right to assert its primacy over religion.

The government still funds a huge religious establishment, the Presidency of Religious Affairs (DIB), which licences after-school Qu’ran courses, administers Turkey’s allotted pilgrimage quota for the Hadj, publishes books, and makes moral pronouncements.

While it does not build or maintain mosques, it does provide stipends for the nation’s clerics, who, in turn, are expected to preach a prepared message from the Friday pulpit.

Above: Selimiye Mosque, Edirne, Turkey

The DIB is, by its own admission, a much-modified version of the Ottoman religious authority, the Sheikh-ul-Islam.

Yet the Ottoman Empire was far from being a cleric-run theocracy.

Above: The Ottoman Empire at its greatest extent

Clerics were regarded as functionaries rather than divinely inspired.

A state bureaucracy worked to codify laws involving taxation, commerce, the military, agriculture and minority affairs – matters beyond the purview of religious law.

Religious or customary law has no status in the Republic of Turkey, having been replaced by a Swiss-inspired civil code.

However, the DIB can still set itself the ambitious project to codify the hadith, the orally transmitted tradition of the Prophet’s teachings, a project largely intended to confirm Islam’s compatibility with democratic values and universal rights.

Above: Şakirin Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

Osama bin Laden was among those who put his finger on the resulting anomalies.

In one of his infamous post 9/11 video appearances, he explained that he was out to avenge “eight decades of pain, humiliation and shame“.

Above: Osama bin Laden (1957 – 2011)

The reference, Turks grasped at once, was to the creation of the Republic in 1923 and to the decision of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk to plow salt into the notion of a religiously empowered state.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881 – 1938)

In Eskişehir and Istanbul, like many who had grown up during the early years of the Republic, there are many people who neither pray or keep a fast.

It is not that they are disrespectful of religion.

They are just indifferent to it.

Like many of their friends and acquaintances they explain their lack of interest for their love for Atatürk and their faith in the secular Republic.

Above: Ulus Monument, representing Mustafa Kemal Atatürk on top, Eskişehir

The 1924 abolition of the Caliphate – the leader of the world Islamic community and a role enjoyed by the Ottoman sultan – was a renunciation of an authority that could transcend the borders of the nation-state.

Moves like the outlawing of the self-governing religious orders were intended to prevent religious institutions and what today would be called “networks” from challenging the new regime.

Above: The last Caliph, Abdulmecid II (1868 – 1944)

The formal adoption of the Gregorian calendar, of Western-style timekeeping in place of “mosque time“, and indeed the whole tenor of Republican reforms were all premised on the view of Islam as an impediment to Turkey’s attempts to catch up with the West.

They were attempts to deconsecrate or secularize the totems of religious life.

Above: Pope Gregory XIII (1502 – 1585)

In 1930, a short-lived uprising led by a cleric in the Western town of Menemen (during which the local military commander’s head was cut off and paraded on a pole) was not a threat to the new regime so much as a challenge to its confidence that the population at large had signed onto its modernization project.

The Menemen Incident, or Kubilay Incident (Turkish: Kubilay Olayı or Menemen Olayı), refers to a chain of events which occurred in Menemen, a small town north of Izmir, on 23 December 1930.

Islamists rebelled against the secularization of Turkey by Atatürk and beheaded Mustafa Fehmi Kubilay, a teacher who was doing his military service and two other watchmen.

Above: Mustafa Fehmi Kubilay (1906 – 1930)

Following the signing of the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923, the Republican People’s Party of Turkey pursued a somewhat liberal policy towards Islam, promoting secularism while not taking a hard line against Islamic institutions and practices, believing that the secularism of their ideology was already taking root.

Above: Borders of Bulgaria, Greece and Turkey set by the Treaty of Lausanne

Above: Palais de Rumine, Lausanne, Switzerland, where the Treaty was settled

This confidence was shaken on 23 December 1930, when Dervish Mehmet Efendi (Cretan Mehmet), a member of the Naqshbandi (Turkish: Nakşibendi) order, created a protest by rallying an armed crowd against the policies of the secular government and calling for the restoration of sharia and the Caliphate.

On the morning of 23 December 1930, six people, four of whom were armed, came to Menemen from Manisa, planted the green banner they had taken from a mosque in the district square after the morning prayer and tried to gather people around them at gunpoint.

With the participation of the public, the rebel group soon grew. 

The activists said that they came to protect religion. 

Mehmet boasted that behind them was the army of the Caliph, 70,000 strong.

Those who did not gather under the banner of sharia before noon would be put to the sword. 

A squad of soldiers from the local garrison was sent to quell the demonstration.

When the incidents were heard by the military unit in the district, the regimental commander sent reserve officer Kubilay to the scene with a squad of soldiers. 

Kublai left the soldiers and met the activists alone and tried to persuade them to surrender. 

One of the armed activists shot and injured Kubilay. Derviş Mehmet, one of the ringleaders, said, “There is no bullet in me.” He tried to convince the people that he had a sacred duty.

Seeing this one of the soldiers fired (using wooden bullets that had no lethal effect) upon the demonstrators and a riot ensued.

Mehmet said:

There is no bullet in me.” 

He tried to convince the people that he had a sacred duty.

Mehmet shouted:

Those who wear hats are kaffirs.

We will return to sharia soon.

Above: Dervish Mehmet Efendi (d. 1931)

Wounded, Kubilay took refuge in the courtyard of the mosque, but Mehmet and his friends followed him. 

Mehmet opened his bag, took out a saw-edged vineyard knife and separated Kubilay’s head from his body, then his severed head was placed on a pole with a green flag and paraded through town.

Above: Martyr Kubilay Memorial in Menemen, İzmir –
The monument of the Menemen Incident features a tall sculpture by Ratip Asir Acudogu which was erected in 1932.
The Kubilay Memorial is a part of Kubilay Barracks, but is open to the public.
The area is landscaped and illuminated at night.
A military honor guard stands continuous watch at the memorial site, which contains the graves of several Turkish soldiers who were killed in the line of duty.
In the aftermath 28 people were hanged by the neck.
It is written on the monument: 
They believed, they fought, they died.
We are the guardians of the trust they left.

Two municipal watchmen, Bekçi Hasan and Bekçi Şevki, were also killed by the demonstrators.

Several rioters were also killed.

Upon hearing Kubilay’s murder by Islamists, Atatürk proclaimed:

Thousands from Menemen didn’t prevent this, instead joined with tekbirs.

Where were these traitors during Greek occupation?”.

The Turkish government expressed their shock over the people of Menemen not reacting to things like the Meneman massacre as harsh as they did to secularization.

The perpetrators of the rebellion including Cretan Mehmet, Cretan Ibrahim, Mehmet of Damascus, Sütçü Mehmet Emin, Nalıncı Hasan and Little Hasan were killed or otherwise punished.

Above: Menemen

The new republican government of Turkey was shocked by the demonstration of religious fervor and by how readily it was embraced by some Turks, as it was completely antithetical to secularism.

A state of emergency was declared and courts-martial were established which meted out sentences ranging from death at the gallows or life imprisonment to one year’s confinement.

There were also several acquittals. 

Sufi members were arrested around the country.

Furthermore, it demonstrated that secularism was taking hold neither as quickly nor as deeply as the government would have liked.

This spurred the government to action.

They began more aggressive secularization reforms in response to the Menemen Incident.

The government carried out this policy by attempting to nationalise Islam through performing the Adhan (Turkish: Ezan)(“call to prayer“), in Turkish rather than Arabic.

The government furthered secularization in schools by having the Quran translated from Arabic into Turkish and read to the people on the radio and in the mosques in Turkish.

These attempts reflected a comprehensive effort by the government to remove Islamic influences and entrench nationality over religion in Turkish culture.

These efforts also showed a larger attempt on the part of the government to consolidate Turkish traditions and promote a Turkish identity to replace a dominantly Muslim one, as in the Ottoman Empire people were identified by the millet system according to their religion rather than ethnicity.

These were done to replace the last vestiges of nostalgia for the abolished Caliphate and the broken-up Ottoman Empire in the aftermath of World War I (1914 – 1918).

Above: Coat of arms of the Ottoman Empire

The Incident helped confirm in the Republican imagination that religion was counter-revolutionary and needed to be monitored and contained.

The 2nd President of Turkey İsmet İnönü said:

Kublai is an example of idealist patriotism that does not calculate power alone for the sake of the revolution, for the sake of patriotism and unity. 

Kubilay is an exceptional monument of the traditional Turkish nature, who is ready to sacrifice his life for the nation at any moment.

Above: İsmet İnönü (1884 – 1973)

7th President Kenan Evren wrote:

The Kublai Incident had a great impact on me and my classmates.

Because the brutal martyrdom of a young officer would of course affect us.

I was under the influence of this for a long time.

They said that the perpetrators of this massacre were caught and they were waiting for the train at the station.

We went to the station.

I saw the traitors who martyred him and Kubilay there.

It left such a deep impression on me that I started painting with a pencil at that time.

I made my first painting with Kubilay’s painting.

I remember it and it was a beautiful painting.

I wish I had kept it.

If only he had stayed with me as a memory.

Above: Kenan Evren (1917 – 2015)

Above: Republic Square, Menemen, Izmir Province, Turkey

Even so, the anticlericalism of the nation’s founders began to soften in the postwar multiparty era as Atatürk’s top-down modernization was replaced with top-down democratization.

In the 1950s there was greater tolerance for Islam – including the reopening of mosques and schools of divinity – and the government allowed mosques to resume the practice of summoning the faithful to prayer in Arabic rather than in Turkish.

Although the core Republic guard saw this as pandering to populist sentiment, later it was the military itself – during the period of martial law (1980 – 1983) – which viewed religion as a force of social cohesion and made religious instruction compulsory.

The rationale for the coup had been the violent street warfare between gangs of left-wing and nationalist youths.

Religious radicalism was regarded as something of a spent force and the military hoped to co-opt Sunni Islam into propping up old-fashioned nationalism.

The result was a worldview known as the “Turkish-Islamic synthesis“.

Above: Kocatepe Mosque, Ankara, Turkey

The success of the overtly Islamist Welfare Party (1983 – 1998) in the 1994 local elections and in general elections the following year obliged the military to doubt the wisdom of their benign view of religion.

Above: Welfare Party logo

This was the election that launched the career of Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, who was to prove the military’s most able foe and who was able to maneuver his AK Party into the political mainstream.

The AK Party repackaged its commitment to Islam as a question of private conscience and democratic choice.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Is Turkey in danger of becoming a fundamentalist state?

The question is one often posed by those who fear that Islam is the main obstacle to Turkey’s fuller integration into the West or that it prevents the country from achieving its goal of full democracy.

The more alienating force is a crude nationalism that in the past has served as a cover for government corruption and political/economic isolationism.

Yet many nonetheless fear that Turkish society is becoming a Kulturkampf (cultural battle) between rival secular and Islamic-oriented elites.

Above: Ahmet Hamdi Akseki Mosque, Ankara, Turkey

The most obvious antidote to polarization is the ability of a population to accommodate and thrive from diversity.

Some women wear headscarves, some have piercings, some have both.

In 2012, around 65% of Turks were teetotalers.

Those who indulge can choose from an increasing array of wines from boutique vineyards that have become the passion and playthings of a Western-oriented elite.

Above: Wine-producing regions in Turkey

For example, the residents of the conservative Central Anatolian city of Kayseri joke about those who attend Friday prayers but leave for a weekend at the nearby tourist hotspots of Cappadocia, much in the way the burghers of Philadelphia once made for Atlantic City on a Saturday night to evade the ban of selling alcohol in the early hours of Sunday.

Above: Kayseri beneath Mount Erciyes, Turkey

Above: İbrahimpaşa panorama, Cappadocia, Turkey

Above: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA

Above: Atlantic City, New Jersey, USA

Turkey still regards itself as a home of the world’s revealed religions and actively promotes “faith tourism“, hoping to attract millions of visitors to religious monuments and sites.

Above: Regions in Turkey for religious tourism

The Archbishop of Constantinople (the Ecumenical Patriarch) is the first among equals of the 300 million adherents of the Orthodox faith worldwide.

The title dates back to the 6th century.

The present incumbent still celebrates liturgy in the Church of St. George by the shores of the Golden Horn.

Above: His All Holiness Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew I

Above: Church of St. George, Istanbul, Turkey

Castles and churches of the medieval Armenian kingdoms are scattered through eastern Turkey and the seat of the Armenian Patriarchate has, since 1461, been in Istanbul.

Above: Armenian Patriarchate of Constantinople, Istanbul, Turkey

The Roman city of Sardis near the Aegean contains the restored remains of a 3rd century synagogue.

Above: Sardis Synagogue

The Arhida Synagogue in Istanbul remains active more than 500 years after it was first built.

Above: Ahrida Synagogue, Istanbul, Turkey

Guidebook in hand, one can visit the basilicas of the Eastern churches, including Chaldean Catholic churches and Assyrian monasteries where the liturgical language is ancient Aramaic.

Above: Mar Petyun Chaldean Catholic Church, Diyarbakir, Turkey

Above: Assyrian Patriarchal Church of Mar Shalita, Qudshanis, Hakkâri Province, Turkey

Though still functioning, these monuments to Anatolia’s multi-confessional past are at best vestigial.

The communities they serve have barely survived a 20th century legacy of nationalist upheavals and subsequent exodus.

Turkish-born non-Muslims now account for less than 1% of the current population.

Above: Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

There is a gap between the rhetoric of tolerance and the actual practice.

Opinion surveys commonly report individuals’ reluctance to live next to people of faiths different than their own.

However, there are not that many non-Muslims to put this abstract prejudice to the test.

One might expect, to take a nonreligious example, that there would be much greater tension between Kurdish and non-Kurdish communities, particularly during periods when the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK) has been on a violent campaign.

Above: Flag of the PKK

While it would be foolish to deny prejudice exists, dire prophecies of intercommunal tensions between Turk and Kurd simply have not materialized.

Perhaps a common faith remains a unifying force.

To inject a personal note, one of the most attractive features of living in Turkey as a foreigner is the quality of respect and civility that invests the exchanges of everyday life.

It would, therefore, be unwise to see discrimination against non-Muslims as a function of an increasing Islamization of Turkish society or of an ascendancy of the AK Party rather than as a part of the nationalist legacy.

Above: Justice and Development Party (AK) logo

The Greek Orthodox community has also been the victim of tit-for-tat retaliation over the treatment of Turkish communities in Eastern Greece or in Cyprus.

Above: Flag of the Greek Orthodox Church

If anything, religious minorities have benefitted from the greater openness that the AK Party requests on behalf of its own mainstream constituents.

The unease that Turkey feels about allowing full expression of other faiths stems in part from its own insecurities about Islam.

Above: Kocatepe Camii (mosque), Ankara, Turkey

An interesting case is the Orthodox seminary on Heybeli Island off the coast of Istanbul, which served as a private and therefore illegal institution of higher education.

It closed in 1971.

This is of great concern to the Patriarchate, which relies on the institution to train future clergy.

Since then, the door has been opened to private universities albeit under the supervision of the Board of Higher Education – a solution that the Orthodox Church cannot accept.

This has led to an impasse that, in turn, has become a diplomatic embarrassment.

The fate of Halki is often on the agenda when Turkish statesmen travel abroad.

Above: Halki Theological School, Hill of Hope, Heybeli Island, Turkey

It has been the subject of resolutions from both houses of the US Congress.

The real problem is not that the government wants the school to remain shut, but rather that if it allowed priests to be trained to institutions outside its control, it would come under pressure to extend that same right to “unlicensed” courses in Islam.

Above: Emblem of Turkey

Not all Islam in Turkey is mainstream.

Above: Sabanci Merkez Camii, Adana, Turkey

There is a sizeable Alevi community.

Above: Alevis Islam in Turkey

Alevi is a form of Shi’ite Islam, but unlike in Iran, where Shi’ism has reinforced a theocratic orthodoxy, Alevis have been part of a culture of dissent in Turkey.

Above: Flag of Iran

Their faith incorporates elements of mysticism and folk religion and exhibits an indifference to many of the practices associated with mainstream Islam – including obligatory fasting during the month of Ramadan or even the pilgrimage to Mecca.

Above: Hadj pilgrims around the Kaaba, Mecca, Saudi Arabia

Alevis are sometimes regarded as the front line in the defence of Turkish secularism inasmuch as they are treated with condescension or at best are overlooked by the religious establishment.

Many Alevis resent seeing their taxes going to support that establishment or a school system that teaches a variant of a faith very different from what they practice at home.

Indeed, one could argue that they have long been the victim of the intolerance which Turkish secularists fear may one day rebound on themselves.

Above: Haci Bektas Veli (1248 – 1337) was a mystic, humanist and a philosopher who lived in Anatolia (Central-Turkey). His teachings had great impact on the Anatolian cultures. He is known for his humanistic teachings and mystic personality.

At the same time, it would be wrong to gloss over the mutual suspicion between those adopting a pious lifestyle and those who adhere to a more latitudinarian one.

Both have reason to fear the other’s intolerance.

Commentators speak of the informal “neighbourhood pressure” and of an ascendancy forcing people to conform to mores they might not choose themselves.

Turkish secularists wonder whether they will be made to wait on the wrong side of the barriers they themselves erected.

Historically it is the pious who have been excluded from public life.

Above: Sultan Ahmed Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

The answer to those who worry that the AK Party is a fundamentalist party in liberal clothing is that it has been in office since 2002 and has had ample time to show its hand.

There is evidence that it believes it has the mandate to legislate on issues of private morality and enforce more strictly those laws and ordinances that already exist.

However, it seems unlikely that any Turkish government would make a sudden move that would excite opinion both at home and abroad.

Above: Parliament of Turkey

In 2004, President Erdoğan did propose making adultery a felony.

He backtracked precisely when the ensuing uproar began to affect Turkey’s attempt to get a seat at the EU negotiating table.

Above: Seal of the President of Turkey

In fact, adultery had been illegal in Turkey, but the law governing it was declared unconstitutional in 1996 because it applied a far stricter standard for women (mere infidelity) than for men (taking a mistress).

The never-enacted law apparently was intended not to tame philandering modernists, but to discipline pious men who thought themselves entitled to take on additional partners, sanctioned by Islamic law but not by civil code.

Legislation came into effect in 2011 that has made it more difficult to serve alcohol at some types of events or for alcohol firms to sponsor sporting events.

These restrictions, as well as higher taxes on alcohol, were justified on grounds of public health and not morality.

The AK government is equally anti-smoking.

However, its general disapproval of alcohol is seen by secularists as the not-so-thin edge of the wedge.

The pious may be against the consumption of alcohol, but they show no sign of being against consumption per se.

Turkish sociologists talk about a newly empowered Islamic bourgeoisie.

Islamic (i.e. “non-interest” or “participation“) banking in 2010 accounted for a mere (and static) 4% of total banking assets.

There is scant public discussion concerning the morality of credit cards or bank interest.

One reason to doubt that there will be a sudden “majoritarian” imposition of an Islamic regime is that there is no groundswell of people who see a major incompatibility of their faith and the life they are already living.

(Islamic bankingIslamic finance or Sharia-compliant finance is banking or financing activity that complies with Sharia (Islamic law) and its practical application through the development of Islamic economics.

Some of the modes of Islamic banking/finance include: 

  • Mudarabah (profit-sharing and loss-bearing)
  • Wadiah (safekeeping)
  • Musharaka (joint ventures)
  • Murabahah (profit markup)
  • Ljara (leasing)

Above: Housing Bank, Amman, Jordan

Sharia prohibits riba (usury), interest paid on all loans of money.

Investment in businesses that provide goods or services considered contrary to Islamic principles (e.g. pork or alcohol) is also haram (“sinful and prohibited“).

These prohibitions have been applied historically in varying degrees in Muslim countries/communities to prevent un-Islamic practices.

In the late 20th century, as part of the revival of Islamic identity, a number of Islamic banks formed to apply these principles to private or semi-private commercial institutions within the Muslim community.

Their number and size has grown, so that by 2009, there were over 300 banks and 250 mutual funds around the world complying with Islamic principles, and around $2 trillion was Sharia-compliant by 2014

Sharia-compliant financial institutions represented approximately 1% of total world assets, concentrated in the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) countries, Pakistan, Iran and Malaysia. 

Above: Islamic Banking and Finance Institute, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Although Islamic banking still makes up only a fraction of the banking assets of Muslims, since its inception it has been growing faster than banking assets as a whole, and is projected to continue to do so.

The industry has been lauded for returning to the path of “divine guidance” in rejecting the “political and economic dominance” of the West, and noted as the “most visible mark” of Islamic revivalism, its most enthusiastic advocates promise “no inflation, no unemployment, no exploitation and no poverty” once it is fully implemented.

However, it has also been criticized for failing to develop profit and loss sharing or more ethical modes of investment promised by early promoters, and instead selling banking products that “comply with the formal requirements of Islamic law“, but use “ruses and subterfuges to conceal interest“, and entail “higher costs, bigger risks” than conventional (ribawi) banks.)

Above: Saba Islamic Bank, Djibouti City, Djibouti

On the whole, it would be absurd to see mosques as providing an underground network of dissent.

Some women do complain that their religious headscarf subjects them to discrimination.

However, their principal demand – akin to that of the American civil rights movement – is to be accepted into the mainstream rather than to overthrow the existing order.

Women who wear headscarves are often reluctant to see their own fight in the context of a larger battle for human rights – for example, the right to be educated in Kurdish – presumably because this would recast their demands in a far more radical light.

Indeed one could make a convincing argument that religion, far from presenting a threat to the Republic, has proved to be a safety valve and a force of social integration during an intense period of urbanization.

Above: Atatürk and an old woman in chador

This is reflected in the proliferation of mosques, though their construction is not state-funded.

In 1990, well before commentators suspected Turkey of lurching to the religious right, 1,500 mosques were being built every year – at a far brisker rate than new schools.

For the most part these buildings are replicas of 16th century classical architecture, with slender minarets and cascading domes.

In this sense, they parallel the Gothic style churches that were a feature of the post-Industrial Revolution neighbourhoods of Victorian Britain, evoking the sacrament of history to celebrate not just God but the foundation of community.

Above: Wells Cathedral, England

This has particular resonance in Turkey, where communities were often built in defiance of planning procedure and through the quasi-legal occupation of public land.

Mosques were buildings that authorities would think twice about before tearing down.

It is not just the tenacity of religion that has taken secularists by surprise, but its ability to adapt to modernity and itself become a vehicle of change.

Not so far away from Eskişehir, deep in the Western Taurus Mountains of Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, along ancient Roman roads and shepherds’ tracks, live the ghosts of Christianity’s St. Paul and his followers.

Above: Demirkazik Crest, Aladağ Mountains, Niğde Province, Turkey

Between Perge / Aspendos and Antioch lies a wealth of undiscovered, beautiful countryside, with canyons, waterfalls, cedar forests, limestone peaks soaring to almost 3,000 metres, and the exquisitely blue waters of Lake Eğirdir, Turkey’s 4th largest and most beautiful lake.

Above: Eğirdir Lake

Turkey’s tourist image couldn’t be further away from the setting of the St. Paul Walk with its lakes, mountains and canyons.

Above: St. Paul’s Walk

Most holidaymakers coming to Turkey aim for the Aegean and Mediterranean coastlines or for Istanbul.

Above: The “Turkish Riviera” by the Aegean Sea

Above: Istanbul tram

I am a walker who has always been intrigued by the notion of pilgrimages – where the object is not rest and recreation or to get away from it all – that set out to throw down a challenge to everyday life where nothing matters but the adventure.

Where the journey is far more important than the destination.

Where one follows the advice of Confucius to:

  • Practice the arts of attention and listening
  • Practice renewing yourself every day
  • Practice meandering toward the centre of every place
  • Practice the ritual of reading sacred texts
  • Practice gratitude and the singing of praise

Above: The teaching Confucius (551 – 479 BCE)

pilgrimage is a journey, often into an unknown or foreign place, where a person goes in search of new or expanded meaning about their self, others, nature, or a higher good, through the experience.

It can lead to a personal transformation, after which the pilgrim returns to their daily life.

Above: Flemish pilgrim, David Teniers the Younger (1610 – 1690)

God willing and time and money permitting I would love to walk St. Paul’s Trail or follow St. James’ Way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain or hike the Via Francigena all the way to Rome, or visit the Holy Land.

Above: St. James Way

Above: Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, Spain

Above: Pilgrims to Rome, Fidenza Cathedral, Italy

Above: Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem, Israel – The purported site of Christ’s resurrection

Above: Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem – Islam’s first direction of prayer before Mecca

Above: Al-Aqsa Mosque, Jerusalem – Purported site of Muhammad’s ascension to Heaven

Above: Temple Mount, Jerusalem – Purported site of Solomon’s Temple

Above: The Wailing (or Western) Wall, Jerusalem – Purported remains of the Holy Temple of Judaism

Though I am remote from ever being labelled one of Christ’s followers or Jehovah’s Chosen People.

Being a non-Muslim I cannot enter the city of Mecca, but I avidly search for accounts of those who have retraced the steps of Muhammed, who have gone on a Hadj.

And pilgrimages are not limited to Abrahamic religions.

Above: Portrait of the Patriarch Abraham, from whom Judaism, Christianity and Islam originate

Sikhs go to Amritsar, Taoists make the Mazu pilgrimage across Taiwan, Zoroastrians visit the fire temples in Iran, Hindus bathe in holy rivers, and Buddhists travel from Buddha’s birthplace in Nepal to his final resting place in India.

Above: Sikh pilgrim at the Golden Temple, Amritsar, India

Above: Mazu Pilgrim Path, Taiwan

Above: Yazd Atash Behram, Iran (Zoroastrian fire temple)

Above: Hindu pilgrims along the Ganges River, India

Above: World Peace Pagoda, Lumbini, Nepal

We grant a divine meaning to this ordinary Earth and seek the meaning of life beyond our understanding.

I would be content as a heathen to understand how faith fuels the fervor of so many around the globe.

Islam is the largest religion in Turkey according to the state, with 99% of the population being initially registered by the state as Muslim, for anyone whose parents are not of any other officially recognised religion and the remaining 0.1% are Christians or adherents of other officially recognised religions like Judaism.

Due to the nature of this method, the official number of Muslims includes people with no religion, as well as converted people and anyone who is of a different religion from their Muslim parents, but has not applied for a change of their individual records.

(By this definition, technically I am Muslim?)

The records can be changed or even blanked on the request of citizen, by filing an e-government application since May 2020, using a valid electronic signature to sign the electronic application. 

Any change in religion records additionally results in a new ID card being issued.

Any change in religion record also leaves a permanent trail in the census record, however, record of change of religion is not accessible except for the citizen in question, next-of-kin of the citizen in question, the citizenship administration and the courts.

Turkey is officially a secular country with no official religion since the constitutional amendment in 1928 and later strengthened by Atatürk’s reforms and the appliance of laicism (which prohibits government influence in the determination of religion) by the country’s founder and first president Mustafa Kemal Atatürk on 5 February 1937.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

However, currently all primary and secondary schools hold mandatory religion classes which mostly focus on the Sunni sect of Islam, though other religions are also covered briefly.

In these classes, children are required to learn prayers and other religious practices which belong specifically to Sunnism.

Above: Muslim denominations

Thus, although Turkey is officially a secular state, the teaching of religious practices in public grade schools has been controversial.

Its application to join the European Union (EU) divided existing members, some of which questioned whether a Muslim country could fit in.

Turkish politicians have accused the country’s EU opponents of favoring a “Christian club“.

Above: European Union flag

Above: (in green) The European Union

Beginning in the 1980s, the role of religion in the state has been a divisive issue, as influential religious factions challenged the complete secularization called for by Kemalism and the observance of Islamic practices experienced a substantial revival.

In the early 2000s, Islamic groups challenged the concept of a secular state with increasing vigor after Recep Tayyip Erdoğan’s Islamist-rooted Justice and Development Party (AKP) came into power in 2002.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

(Kemalism is sweeping political, social, cultural and religious reforms designed to separate the new Turkish state from its Ottoman predecessor and embrace a Western-style modernized lifestyle, including the establishment of secularism / laicism, state support of the sciences, free education, and many more.

Most of these reforms were first introduced to, and implemented in Turkey during Atatürk’s presidency.)

Above: Flag of the Republican People’s Party, showing the Six Arrows of Kemalism

It has been fervor of faith that has transformed the politics of Turkey since Andrew Finkel’s abovementioned 2012 book was published.

One of the most prominent faith movements existent in 2012 was founded by the charismatic preacher Fetullah Gülen.

Above: Fetullah Gülen, 2016

The movement – now designated a terrorist organization by Turkey, Pakistan and the Gulf States – that bears Gülen’s name managed to prosper less through sermons in the mosque and more through the media, think tanks and NGOs, financial services, commercial enterprises, and even universities.

The Gülen Movement created a huge network of nonreligious private and charter schools in Turkey as well as in over 100 other countries.

These schools were far more emissaries of Turkish culture – a privately financed form of public diplomacy – than centres of Islam.

In this they were the mirror image of elite foreign language high schools (German, French, Italian and English) in Turkey itself and have become vehicles for Turkish commercial penetration into parts of the world once beyond its reach.

The schools provided a high standard of education and were particularly popular in the former Soviet Union because of their discipline and teetotaling teachers.

Preaching, where it existed, was very much an afterschool activity.

Gülen himself advocated an “alternative” modernity that involved a very explicit rejection of the proposition that Islam is incompatible with contemporary life.

His Islam, though culturally conservative, had an emotional appeal as well as a mystic component that made it different from a fundamentalist state religion.

Gülen-associated institutions were active participants in interfaith dialogue.

Above: Fetullah Gülen

In 2012 the size of Gülen’s following was difficult to estimate.

Three million was a frequently cited figure.

Time magazine put the figure as high as 6 million.

The Movement had huge influence.

Zaman, the house newspaper of the Movement, was among Turkey’s largest circulating dailies and actively supported the AK Party government.

Above: Typical front page of Zaman (1986 – 2016)

By contrast, it did not back its predecessor, the Welfare Party, which had a much narrower, anti-Western and Muslim Brotherhood feel.

Above: Flag of the Muslim Brotherhood, whose aim is the establishment of a Sharia-based state

Some saw the Gülen Movement as the Islamic incarnation of Calvinism – a belief system that embodies the spirit of capitalism and legitimizes itself through the worldly success of its adherents.

Above: Jean Cauvin (aka John Calvin) (1509 – 1564)

Others believed that Gülen and those who sheltered under his banner tried to create “sleeper cells” within the bureaucracy and particularly within the police.

That the “Master Teacher” (Hoca Efendi), as Gülen has been respectfully called, has spent more than two decades in exile on an estate in Pennsylvania has only made him a more shadowy and sinister figure.

The suspicion is that he owes his allegiance not to where he grew up but where he eats.

Above: Fetullah Gülen

(Ergenekon was the name given to an alleged clandestine, secular ultra-nationalist organization in Turkey with possible ties to members of the country’s military and security forces. 

The would-be group, named after Ergenekon, a mythical place located in the inaccessible valleys of the Altay Mountains, was accused of terrorism in Turkey.

Ergenekon was by some believed to be part of the “deep state“.

The existence of the “deep state” was affirmed in Turkish opinion after the Susurluk Scandal in 1996.)

(The Susurluk Scandal (Susurluk kazası) was a scandal involving the close relationship among the deep state in Turkey (an alleged group of influential anti-democratic coalitions within the politics of Turkey composed of high-level elements within the intelligence services (domestic and foreign), the Turkish military, security agencies, the judiciary and mafia), the Grey Wolves (a Turkish far right organization and movement commonly described as ultra-nationalistic, Islamic fundamentalist extreme and neo-fascist youth organization which claims to be a cultural and educational foundation) and the Turkish mafia (the general term for criminal organizations based in Turkey and/or composed of (former) Turkish citizens).

Above: Logo of the Grey Wolves

It took place during the peak of the Kurdish-Turkish conflict, in the mid-1990s.

The relationship came into existence after the National Security Council (NSC) posited the need for the marshaling of the state’s resources to combat the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK).

Above: Headquarters of the National Security Council, Ankara, Turkey

The scandal surfaced with a car – truck collision on 3 November 1996, near Susurluk, in the province of Balikesir.

Above: Scene of the Susurluk car crash

The victims included the deputy chief of the Istanbul Police Department Huseyin Kocadağ, Member of Parliament Sedat Bucak, and Abdullah Çatli, the leader of the Grey Wolves and a contract killer for the National Intelligence Organization (Turkey’s equivalent to the CIA)(MİT), who was on Interpol’s red list at the time of his death.

The Susurluk car crash took place on 3 November 1996.

It resulted in the death of three of the passengers: 

  • Abdullah Çatli, a former ultra-rightist militant wanted by police for multiple murders and drug trafficking 
  • Huseyin Kocadağ, a senior police official
  • beauty queen Gonca Uş (Çatlı’s girlfriend)

MP Sedat Bucak escaped with a broken leg and fractured skull.

The peculiar associations of the crash victims and their links with Interior Minister Mehmet Agar led to a number of investigations, including a parliamentary investigation, of what became known as the Susurluk scandal.

Above: Mehmet Ağar

The state had been engaged in an escalating low intensity conflict with the PKK since 1984.

The conflict escalated in the early 1990s.

Towards the end of 1992, a furious debate in the NSC about how to proceed was taking place.

Moderates, like President Turgut Özal and General Eşref Bitlis, favoured a non-military solution.

However, both died in 1993.

Above: Turgut Özal (1927 – 1993)

The death of Bitlis (the General Commander of the Turkish Gendarmerie at the time) in a plane crash remains controversial.

Above: Eşref Bitlis (1933 – 1993)

The same year, the NSC ordered a co-ordinated black operations campaign using special forces. 

Then-Deputy Prime Minister Tansu Çiller tasked the police force, then under the leadership of Mehmet Ağar, with crippling the PKK and assassinating its leader, Abdullah Öcalan.

Above: Tansu Çiller

Above: Abdullah Öcalan

Turkish authorities had claimed that security officers, politicians and other authorities who had been involved in drug trafficking were initially tasked with preventing the Turkish mafia and the PKK from profiting from illegal activities, but that these officials then captured the business and fought over who would control it.

Intelligence expert Mahir Kaynak described the police camp as “pro-European“, and the MİT camp as “pro-American“.

Above: Seal of the Turkish National Intelligence Organization (MIT)

The authorities pocketed billions of dollars in profits from the drug smuggling.

This illegal activity on the state’s part was partly motivated, or at least justified as such, by the tens of billions of dollars in loss of trade with Iraq due to the Gulf War.

Above: Gulf War (1990 – 1991) images

To put this into perspective, the Turkish heroin trade, then worth $50 billion, exceeded the state budget of $48 billion.

(Other sources quote the 1998 budget as $62 billion and the drug market as $70 billion, though only a fraction of this was tapped as commission.)

Above: Black tar heroin

Although Ağar and Çiller resigned after the scandal, no one received any punitive sentences.

Ağar was eventually re-elected to Parliament (as a leader of the True Path Party, DYP), and the sole survivor of the crash, chieftain Sedat Bucak, was released.

Above: Logo of the True Path Party (1983 – 2007)

Some reforms were made:

The intelligence agency was restructured to end infighting.

Some hold that the scandal was made possible by the wresting of control of the MİT away from the Turkish military in 1992.)

Above: Emblem of the Turkish Armed Forces

(Alleged members of Ergenekon had been indicted on charges of plotting to foment unrest, among other things by assassinating intellectuals, politicians, judges, military staff, and religious leaders, with the ultimate goal of toppling the incumbent government.

By April 2011, over 500 people had been taken into custody and nearly 300 formally charged with membership of what prosecutors described as “the Ergenekon terrorist organization“, which they claimed had been responsible for virtually every act of political violence — and controlled every militant group —in Turkey over the last 30 years.

As of 2015 most of the people accused of such crimes were acquitted, forensic experts concluded the documents for supposed plots were fake and some of the executors of trials proved to be linked to the Gülen Movement and were charged with plotting against the Turkish Army.)

The Gülen Movement states that it is based on moral values and advocacy of universal access to education, civil society, tolerance and peace.

The emphasis among participants is to perform “service” (hizmet) as arising from individuals’ personal commitments to righteous imperatives.

Along with hizmet, the movement, which has no official name, is termed the Gülen Movement or cemaat (“congregation“, “community” or “assembly“).

The movement has been characterized as a “moderate blend of Islam“. 

Gülen and the Gülen Movement are technology-friendly, work within current market and commerce structures, and are savvy users of modern communications and public relations.

In 2008, Gülen was described as “the modern face of the Sufi Ottoman tradition“, who reassures his followers, including many members of “Turkey’s aspirational middle class“, that “they can combine the statist-nationalist beliefs of Atatürk’s republic with a traditional but flexible Islamic faith” and “Ottoman traditions that had been caricatured as theocratic by Atatürk and his ‘Kemalist’ heirs“.

Above: Fetullah Gülen

In the early 2000s, the Gülen Movement was seen as keeping a distance from established Islamic political parties.

Sources state that the Gülen Movement is vying to be recognized as the world’s leading Muslim network, one that is more reasonable than many of its rivals.

The movement builds on the activities of Gülen, who has won praise from non-Muslim quarters for his advocacy of science, interfaith dialogue, and multi-party democracy.

It has earned praise as “the world’s most global movement“.

It is impossible to calculate the size of the Gülen Movement” since the movement is not a centralized or formal organization with membership rosters, but rather a set of numerous, loosely organized networks of people inspired by Gülen.

Estimates of the size of the Movement vary, with one source stating that between 200,000 supporters and 4 million people are influenced by Gülen’s ideas (1997 Tempo estimate), and another stating that Gülen has “hundreds of thousands of supporters“.

The membership of the movement consists primarily of students, teachers, businessmen, academics, journalists and other professionals. 

Its members have founded schools, universities, an employers’ association, charities, real estate trusts, student organizations, radio and television stations, and newspapers.

The movement’s structure has been described as a flexible organizational network. 

Movement schools and businesses organize locally and link themselves into informal networks. 

Akin to Turkey’s Sufi tariqas (lay religious orders), Movement schools were banned in Turkey in 1925.

The Movement skirted Kemalist Turkey’s prohibitions against assembling in non-state sponsored religious meetings.

(As a young man, future President of Turkey Recep Tayyip Erdoğan belonged to the Naqshbandi tariqa, then technically banned in Turkey.)

Above: An election campaign poster featuring Erdoğan: “Istanbul is Ready, Target 2023“, Taksim Square, Istanbul

Each local Gülen movement school and community has a person designated its “informal” (in the sense of not being Turkish state-sponsored) prayer leader (imam).

In the Gülen Movement, this individual is a layman who serves for a stint within this voluntary position.

His identity is kept confidential, generally only purposely made known to those with close connections to those participating in decision-making and coordinating councils within the local group.

Above a grouping of such “secret” (not-publicly-acknowledged) imams is another such volunteer leader.

This relationship tree continues on up the ladder to the nation-level imam and to individuals who consult with Gülen himself.

(These individuals closest to Gülen, having degrees from theology schools, are offhandedly referred to within the movement as mullahs.)

Gülen’s position is analogous to that of a shaykh (master) of a Sufi tariqa.

Unlike with traditional tariqas, no one makes pledges of any sort, upon joining the Gülen Movement.

A person becomes a Movement participant simply by working with others to promote and effect the Movement’s objectives of education and service.

The Gülen Movement works within the given structures of modern secular states.

It encourages affiliated members to maximize the opportunities those countries afford rather than engaging in subversive activities.

In the words of Gülen himself, it promotes “an Ottoman Empire of the mind“.

Detractors of the Movement “have labeled Gülen community members as secretive missionaries, while those in the Movement and sympathetic observers class it as a civil society organization“.

Critics have complained that members of the Gülen movement are overly compliant to the directions from its leaders.

Gülen’s Movement “is generally perceived by its critics as a religio-political cult“.

Above: Fetullah Gülen

The Guardian editorial board described the Movement in 2013 as having “some of the characteristics of a cult or of an Islamic Opus Dei“.

(Opus Dei is an organization within the Catholic Church.)

Above: Opus Dei logo – “A cross embracing the world

Scholars such as Simon Robinson disagree with the characterization, writing that although “there is no doubt that Gülen remains a charismatic leader and that members of the movement hold him in the highest respect“, the Movement “differs markedly from a cult in several ways“, with Gülen stressing “the primacy of the scriptures” and “the imperative of service” and consistently avoiding “attempts to institutionalize power, to perceive him as the source of all truth, or to view him as taking responsibility for the Movement“.

Zeki Saritoprak says that the view of Gülen as “a cult leader or a man with ambitions” is mistaken, and contends that Gülen should be viewed in the context of a long line of Sufi masters who have long been a centre of attention “for their admirers and followers, both historically and currently“.

Above: Zeki Sartoprak

Beginning in 2008, the Dutch government investigated the Movement’s activities in the Netherlands in response to questions from Parliament.

The first two investigations concluded that the movement did not form a breeding ground for radicalism and found no indications that the movement worked against integration or that it was involved in terrorism or religious radicalization.

A further academic study sketched a portrait of a socially conservative, inwardly directed movement with an opaque organizational structure, but said that its members tend to be highly successful in society and thus form no threat to integration.

Above: Flag of the Netherlands

Hizmet-affiliated foundations and businesses were estimated as worth $20-to-$50 billion in 2015.

Fethullah Gülen’s and the Gülen Movement’s views and practices have been discussed in international conferences.

In October 2007 in London a conference was sponsored by the University of Birmingham, the Dialogue Society, the Irish School of Ecumenics, Leeds Metropolitan University, the London Middle East Institute, the Middle East Institute and the School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London.

Above: London, England

The Niagara Foundation of Chicago, together with several academic institutions, organized “The Gülen Movement: Paradigms, Projects and Aspirations” conference, which was held at the University of Chicago on 11–13 November 2010.

Above: Logo of the University of Chicago

In 2017 the German magazine Der Spiegel called the Movement a “secretive and dangerous cult” while calling Gülen a suspicious individual, saying:

The movement calls itself a tolerant service movement, while those who have left the movement call it a secretive Islamist organization with Fethullah Gülen as its leader“.

The article said pupils attending the “cult” schools in Germany were under immense pressure from their abis (tutors) telling them which books to read, which movies to watch, which friends to meet and whether to see their families or not, while the abis were keeping a protocol of all those staying in the cult’s dormitories.

Der Spiegel also criticized the movement regarding its activities towards freedom of the press.

Arguing, despite Gülen emphasizing how much he cares of the freedom of the press in interviews, the Movement launched a campaign towards the newspaper in 2012 after an article was written regarding the “cult“.

During which 2,000 readers sent by the cult wrote letters of complaint to the Press Council.

All of which were rejected by the Council. 

Der Spiegel said the Movement distorted events and threatened those who spoke against it and accused Der Spiegel of having ties to the Turkish mafia.

Above: Logo of Der Spiegel (The Mirror)

Gareth Jenkins of the Sunday Times said, despite portraying itself as a peaceful educational movement, the Gülen organization never hesitates using anti-democratic and anti-liberal methods.

The Süddeutsche Zeitung called the organization as “more dangerous than the Illuminati” and “not transparent as opposed to the claims“, and reported that the organization tried to reorganize in the Swabia region of Germany.

(Illuminati is a name given to several groups, both real and fictitious whose goals were to oppose superstition, obscurantism, religious influence over public life, and abuses of state power.

Historically, the name usually refers to the Bavarian Illuminati, an Enlightenment-era secret society founded on 1 May 1776 in Bavaria, today part of Germany.

The order of the day“, they wrote in their general statutes, “is to put an end to the machinations of the purveyors of injustice, to control them without dominating them.”

Above: Adam Weishaupt (1748–1830), founder of the Illuminati

The Illuminati — along with Freemasonry and other secret societies — were outlawed with the encouragement of the Catholic Church.

The group was generally vilified by conservative and religious critics who claimed that the Illuminati continued underground and were responsible for the French Revolution.

Many influential intellectuals and progressive politicians counted themselves as members.

It attracted literary men.

Above: Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749 – 1832), a member of the Illuminati

Illuminati” has referred to various organisations which have claimed, or have been claimed to be, connected to the original Bavarian Illuminati or similar secret societies, though these links have been unsubstantiated.

These organisations have often been alleged to conspire to control world affairs, by masterminding events and planting agents in government and corporations, in order to gain political power and influence and to establish a New World Order.

Central to some of the more widely known and elaborate conspiracy theories, the Illuminati have been depicted as lurking in the shadows and pulling the strings and levers of power in dozens of novels, films, television shows, comics, video games, and music videos.)

On 9 November 2005, a bookstore was bombed in Şemdinli.

The Şemdinli incident occurred on 9 November 2005 when a bookshop in Şemdinli, Hakkari Province, Turkey was attacked with grenades.

One person died and several were injured in the attack on the Umut bookshop.

The attack was carried out by Turkish Gendarmerie personnel, who were caught in the act by local residents.

The men are said to have worked for the Gendarmerie’s JITEM intelligence unit.

Two hand grenades were thrown, and a further two retrieved from the car of Kaya and İldeniz, which was registered to the local Gendarmerie.

Above: Emblem of the Turkish Gendarmerie

In 2010 grenades with the same serial number were found in a house in Erzincan as part of the Ergenekon investigation.

The incident has been compared with the Susurluk scandal for the light it casts on the Turkish “deep state“.

Above: Aftermath of the 9 November 2005 bookstore bombing

The prosecutor of the case, Ferhat Sarıkaya, prepared a criminal indictment in which Turkey’s Commander of Land Forces Yasar Büyükanit was accused of forming a gang and plotting the bombing.

A decade later, prosecutor Sarıkaya confessed that he was ordered by Gülenists to include General Yaşar Büyükanıt into the criminal indictment, in order to prevent his promotion in the army (Chief of General Staff) and to ease the grip on Gülenist structures within the army.

Above: Yaşar Büyükanıt (1940 – 2019)

The prominent Turkish – Armenian journalist Hrant Dink was assassinated in Istanbul on 19 January 2007.

Dink was a newspaper editor who had written and spoken about the Armenian genocide, and was well known for his efforts for reconciliation between Turks and Armenians and his advocacy of human and minority rights in Turkey.

At the time of his death, he was on trial for violating Article 301 of the Turkish Penal Code and “denigrating Turkishness“.

Above: Hrant Dink

Above: Hrant Dink was assassinated in Istanbul around 12:00 GMT on 19 January 2007, as he returned to the offices of Agos.

His murder sparked both massive national protests in Turkey itself as well as widespread international outrage.

Above: A panorama from Halaskargazi Boulevard in the Sisli district of Istanbul.
One hundred thousand mourners marched in Dink’s funeral, protesting his assassination.

Hakan Bakırcıoglu, one of Hrant Dink’s lawyers, said in an interview with Deutsche Welle that the underaged perpetrator, Ogün Samast, had help from third parties, including people connected to the Istanbul and Trabzon police forces.

Four prosecutors in the trial have been dismissed from their posts due to their ties with the Movement, and for failing to make progress with the case.

Furthermore, police commissioners Ramazan Akyürek and Ali Fuat Yılmazer were accused of not sharing their foreknowledge of the attack with the prosecutors, gendarmarie, or the intelligence services despite being briefed of a planned assassination several times.

A Turkish court also said that 18 suspects in the case, among them 13 government officials were using the application ByLock on their phones, which the Turkish government claims are the communication tool of Gülen movement followers.

According to investigative journalist Nedim Şener, the Gülen movement used the assassination of Hrant Dink, the assassination of priest Andrea Santoro, the Zirve Publishing House murders, as well as other events, to create an atmosphere and illusion of a clandestine Kemalist ultra-nationalist organization holding responsible for these misdeeds.

Above: Nedim Şener

(Andrea Santoro (1945 – 2006) was a Roman Catholic priest in Turkey, murdered in the Santa Maria Church in Trabzon where he served as a member of the Catholic Church’s Fidei Donum missionary program. 

He was shot dead from behind while kneeling in prayer in the church.

The motive of the attack is not known.)

Above: Andrea Santoro (1945 – 2006)

(The Zirve Publishing House murders, called the missionary massacres by Turkish media, took place on 18 April 2007, in Zirve Publishing House, Malatya, Turkey.

Three employees of the Bible publishing house were attacked, tortured, and murdered by five Muslim assailants.

Two of the victims, Necati Aydın (36) and Uğur Yüksel (32) were Turkish converts from Islam.

The third man, Tilmann Geske (45) was a German citizen.

Necati Aydın was an actor who played the role of Jesus Christ in a theatre production that the TURK-7 network aired over the Easter holidays.

Aydın is survived by his wife, Şemse, and a son and daughter, both pre-school age.

Geske is survived by his wife Susanne and three children aged 8 to 13.

Yüksel was engaged.

Necati Aydin was a graduate of the Martin Bucer Seminary, whose president Thomas Schirrmacher said he simply cried when he learned of the deaths.)

With the start of the Ergenekon trials, this alleged Kemalist organization was called an “Ergenekon terrorist organization“.

The Gülenist media were instrumental in shaping public opinion during these operations.

In these court cases, military officials, parliamentarians and journalists were accused of plotting a violent coup to oust the government.

It later turned out that these cases were based on fabricated evidence, and that most such fabrications were produced by the Gülenists in the police.

In 2011, Nedim Şener was accused in the Ergenekon trials of being a member of Ergenekon and subsequently was arrested and held in pre-trial detention.

In 2010, the exam questions and answer keys of the Public Personnel Selection Examination (KPSS) were stolen and handed out to certain Gülenist members.

The members with high scores were placed strategically in the critical state bodies.

Above: Logo of the KPSS test

Members of the Gülen movement inside the intelligence agency were accused of reshaping Turkish politics to a more “workable form” by leaking secretly filmed sex tapes and corruption tapes of both government members and opposition members, with the resignation of main opposition leader Deniz Baykal in 2010 as one of the most notable examples.

Above: Deniz Baykal

(An alleged video-tape showing Baykal in bed with his former secretary, Member of Parliament Nesrin Baytok, was leaked to the media.)

Above: Nesrin Baytok

Politicians with no recorded scandalous behavior are believed to have been killed, like Great Unity Party leader Muhsin Yazicioğlu, who died in a helicopter crash in 2009.

Above: Muhsin Yazicioğlu

(Muhsin Yazıcıoğlu (1954 – 2009) was a Turkish politician and member of the Parliament of Turkey.

He was the leader and founder of the Great Unity Party (BBP), a right-wing, nationalist-Islamist political party.

Above: Logo of the Great Unity Party

Yazıcıoğlu died on 25 March 2009, in a helicopter crash in the southern Turkish province of Kahramanmaras, after a political rally there on the way to the next rally in Yozgat just four days before the local elections.

Above: The helicopter crash site

After the helicopter crash, journalist Ismail Güneş who was one of the passengers, called the Turkish emergency service number 112 and was able to talk to the dispatcher clearly.

He explained how the helicopter fell in a way which made some people believe that the crash was more of an assassination than an accident.

According to Ismail Güneş’s autopsy his chin was broken after the crash, suggesting he wouldn’t have been able to talk to the dispatcher.

Above: Ismail Güneş

Locals and soldiers searched for 48 hours until the bodies were found.

The Turkish magazine Aksiyon published a special file on the blood of the deceased.

It contained carbon monoxide before the helicopter fell.

According to Köksal Akpınar, it was proven that the carbon monoxide values in the blood of pilot Kaya İstekte and journalist İsmail Güneş were much higher when the helicopter was falling.

Above: Aksiyon (Action) logo

There is a tape illustrating Sergeant Aydın Özsıcak dismantling the GPS of the helicopter.

This tape was denied by the then-Turkish Prime Minister Erdogan.

However, after the failed military coup in 2016, President Erdoğan published the video since Aydın Özsıcak was one of the sergeants who tried to overthrow Erdoğan during the coup.

Today, the reason for the accident still remains a mystery.)

Above: (foreground) Aydin Özsicak

Turkish and Russian officials declared the Gülen Movement to be responsible for the assassination of Russian ambassador Andrei Karlov and accused the Movement of aiming to damage Russia-Turkey relations that had been normalizing since the 2016 coup d’état attempt.

Above: Andrei Karlov (1954 – 2016)

(Andrei Karlov was assassinated by Mevlüt Mert Altıntaş, an off-duty Turkish police officer, at an art exhibition in Ankara on the evening of 19 December 2016.

The assassination took place after several days of protests in Turkey over Russian involvement in the Syrian Civil War and the battle over Aleppo.

Karlov, the Russian Ambassador to Turkey, had been invited to deliver a speech at the opening of an exhibition of Turkish photography of the Russian countryside.

The exhibition, “Russia through Turks’ eyes“, was being held at the municipality owned Cagdas Sanat Merkezi Centre for Modern Arts in Ankara’s Cankaya district.

Above: Cagdas Sanat Merkezi Centre for Modern Arts, Ankara

Mevlüt Altıntaş entered the hall using his police identification, leading gallery security and attendees to believe he was one of Karlov’s personal bodyguards.

Karlov had begun his speech when Altıntaş suddenly fired several shots at the Russian ambassador from the back, fatally wounding him and injuring several other people.

Above: Mevlüt Mert Altıntaş

After shooting Karlov, Altıntaş circled the room, smashing pictures that were on display and shouting in Arabic and Turkish:

Allahu Akbar (God is the greatest).

We are the descendants of those who supported the Prophet Muhammad, for jihad.

Do not forget Aleppo, do not forget Syria.

We die in Aleppo, you die here.”

Shortly after, Altıntaş was fatally shot by Turkish security forces.

Karlov was taken to the hospital, but died from his injuries.)

Above: Russian commemorative stamp

Since 2013 the Gülen Movement has been accused by the Turkish government of collaborating with the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK).

In 2014 the Movement reportedly conducted several meeting with the PKK, in parts of Northern Iraq under PKK control.

In 2015, the Turkish government said the movement had leaked the identity of 329 Turkish Gendermarie informants to the PKK, who were then executed.

On 15 April 2016, during the Kurdish-Turkish conflict Gülen movement member Brigadier General Ali Osman Gürcan deliberately sent 17 soldiers to a house that was packed with IEDs (improvised explosive devices), according to the testimony of his companions, which led to the death of a police officer and wounding of eight soldiers.

The house was marked on a map with the code ‘P368‘ for IED’s, which Gürcan erased from the map, leading to a brawl that led to his companions calling him a “traitor“. 

Gürcan later participated in the 2016 Turkish coup d’état attempt under the Peace at Home Council.

He was arrested after the coup’s failure and sentenced to life imprisonment.

Above: Ali Osman Gürcan

(The Council for Peace at Home (Yurtta Sulh Konseyi), alternatively called the Peace Council, claimed to be an executive body that led a coup attempt in Turkey (15-16 July 2016).

The name was made public in a statement read on air during the 15 July 2016 temporary takeover by soldiers of the headquarters of Turkish state broadcaster TRT.

It is the wish and order of the Turkish Armed Forces for this statement to be broadcast on all channels of the Turkish Republic.

The valuable citizens of the Turkish Republic have systematically been subject to constitutional and legal infringements threatening the basic characteristics and vital institutions of the state, while all state institutions including the Turkish Armed Forces have undergone attempts to be redesigned based on ideological motives, rendering them unfit for purpose.

Fundamental rights and freedoms as well as the secular democratic legal structure based on the separation of powers have been abolished by the heedless, misguided and even treacherous President and government officials.

Our state has lost its rightful international reputation and has become a country governed by an autocracy based on fear and where fundamental human rights are overlooked.

The wrong decisions taken by the political elite have resulted in the failure to combat growing terrorism, which has claimed the lives of several innocent citizens and security forces who have been fighting against terror.

The corruption and pilferage within the bureaucracy have reached serious levels, while the judicial system throughout the country has become unfit for purpose.

In these circumstances, the Turkish Armed Forces, that founded and has guarded to this day the Turkish Republic under extraordinary sacrifices, established under the leadership of the great Atatürk, has in order to continue the country’s indivisible unity in the wake of the Peace at Home, Peace in the World ideal, to safeguard the survival of the nation and the state, to eliminate the threats our Republic’s victories face, to eliminate the de facto obstructions to our justice system, to stop corruption that has become a national security threat, to allow efficient operations against all forms of terrorism, to bring forward fundamental and universal human rights to all our citizens regardless of race or ethnicity and to re-establish the constitutionally enshrined values of a secular democratic social and legal state, to regain our nation’s lost international reputation and to establish stronger relations and co-operate for international peace, stability and serenity, taken over administration.

The governance of the State will be undertaken by the established Peace at Home Council.

The Peace at Home Council has taken every action to ensure that it fulfils the obligations set by all international institutions, including the United Nations and NATO.

The government, which has lost all its legitimacy, has been dismissed from office.”

Above: The General Directorate of Police (EGM) bombing on 15 July 2016

The group was supposedly formed within the Turkish Armed Forces clandestinely.

It was declared to be the governing council of Turkey during the coup attempt.

The existence of the Council was firstly announced by Tijen Karaş, a news anchor at the state-owned TRT news channel, allegedly at gunpoint.

Above: Tijen Karaş

The name “Peace at Home Council” is derived from ‘Peace at Home, Peace in the World’, which is a famous quote of Atatürk.

Although it was self-declared as the successor to the incumbent 65th government of Turkey, the citizens taking to the streets failed the coup attempt meant that the Council took neither de facto nor de jure power in the country.

BBC article by Ezgi Başaran said that:

The statement of the junta, that was read on government TV as the coup got under way, bore a strong resemblance to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk’s famous address to the Turkish Youth.

On the other hand, given that these references are too obvious, they may have been intentionally included to insinuate a Kemalist junta rather than a Gülenist one.”

In the aftermath of the coup attempt, commentators on social media alleged that the creation of the council had been staged to invoke greater support for the governing Justice and Development Party (AKP), with some sceptics citing the lack of any solid information on the Council’s actual composition as evidence that the entire ordeal had been faked by the government.

No official statement regarding the composition of the Council was ever given.

According to the state-run Anadolu News Agency, subsequent investigations and allegations pointed to the leader being former Colonel Muharrem Köse, who had been dismissed earlier in 2016 from his role as legal advisor to the Chief of Staff due to his apparent links with Fethullah Gülen.

Above: Muharrem Köse

On 15 July 2016, as reported just before 23:00, military jets were witnessed flying over Ankara, and both the Fatih Sultan Mehmet and Bosphorus Bridges in Istanbul were closed.

Above: Ankara

Above: Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, Istanbul

Above: The Bosphorus Bridge (now called the 15 July Martyrs Bridge), Istanbul

Turkish Prime Minister Binali Yildirim said military action was being “taken outside the chain of command” and it was an “illegal attempt” to seize power by “part of the military“.

He further said that those involved “will pay the highest price“.

Above: Binali Yildirim

Local media also reported tanks in Istanbul’s Atatürk Airport.

Above: Atatürk Airport, Istanbul

It was reported that Internet users within Turkey were blocked from accessing Twitter, Facebook, and YouTube.

Twitter later stated that it had “no reason to think we’ve been fully blocked“. 

Above: Logo of Twitter

Some hostages were taken at military headquarters, including the Turkish Chief of the General Staff Hulusi Akar.

Above: Hulusi Akar

At around 21:00, the coup had invited Salih Zeki Çolak, the commander of the Turkish Land Forces to the military headquarters. When he arrived, he was immediately apprehended.

Above: Salih Zeki Çolak

Abidan Ünal, head of the Turkish Air Force, who had been attending a wedding in Istanbul, was abducted from there by soldiers who descended from a helicopter.

The coup then tried to force Akar to sign the coup declaration, almost strangling him using a belt in the process.

He refused and was then taken to the Akinci Air Base and other commanders at the headquarters.

Above: Abidin Ünal

 

The military also entered the Justice and Development Party’s (AKP) offices in Istanbul and asked people to leave.

Early reports said President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan was safe in Marmaris, southwest Turkey, where he had been on holiday.

Above: Marmaris

From around 23:00 to midnight, helicopters bombed the police special forces headquarters and police air force headquarters in Gölbasi, just outside of Ankara.

The attacks left 42 dead and 43 injured. 

Above: General Directorate of Security logo

Türksat headquarters in Gölbaşı was also attacked, killing two security personnel.

At around 23:50, soldiers occupied Taksim Square in central Istanbul.

Above: Taksim Square, Istanbul, 15 July 2016

At 00:02, it was reported by Reuters that soldiers were inside the buildings of the state broadcaster, the Turkish Radio and Television Corporation (TRT), in Ankara.

During the coup attempt, soldiers forced anchor Tijen Karaş to read out a statement saying that “the democratic and secular rule of law has been eroded by the current government” and that Turkey was now led by the Peace at Home Council who would “ensure the safety of the population“. 

The statement read in part:

Turkish Armed Forces have completely taken over the administration of the country to reinstate constitutional order, human rights and freedoms, the rule of law and general security that was damaged.

All international agreements are still valid.

We hope that all of our good relationships with all countries will continue.

The plotters said they had “done so to preserve democratic order, and that the rule of law must remain a priority“.

The statement also ordered temporary martial rule, and said a new constitution would be prepared “as soon as possible“.

TRT was then taken off air.

Above: Tijen Karaş

Reuters reported on 15 July that an EU source described the coup as “well orchestrated” and predicted that “given the scale of the operation, it is difficult to imagine they will stop short of prevailing.”

Another EU diplomat said that the Turkish ambassador in his capital was shocked and “taking it very seriously”.

Above: Member states of the European Union

The Turkish Presidential office said President Erdoğan was on holiday inside Turkey and safe and condemned the coup attempt to attack democracy.

A presidential source also said Erdoğan and his government were still in power.

The first messages from Erdoğan were transmitted at around 00:23. 

At about 01:00, Erdoğan did a FaceTime interview with CNN Türk, in which he called upon his supporters to take to the streets in defiance of the military-imposed curfew, saying:

There is no power higher than the power of the people.

Let them do what they will at public squares and airports.”

Above: Logo of FaceTime

Deputy Prime Minister Numan Kurtulmuş appeared on live television, saying Turkey’s ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) is still in charge of the government.

Above: Numan Kurtulmuş

The mayor of Ankara, Melih Gökçek of the AKP, encouraged people to go out to the city’s streets in defiance, despite a curfew imposed by the military.

Above: Melih Gökçek

Erdoğan’s plane took off from Dalaman Airport near Marmaris at 23:47, but had to wait in the air south of Atatürk for the airport to be secured.

His plane landed at 02:50.

Above: Dalaman Airport

The First Army General Command in Istanbul stated in a news conference that the TSK did not support the coup and the perpetrators represented a tiny faction that were on the verge of being brought under control. 

Above: Logo of the First Army

Istanbul Atäturk Airport was closed.

All flights from the airport were cancelled.

Above: Istanbul Atatürk Airport, 2016 coup

There was an explosion in the TRT broadcasting headquarters and gunfire was reported in Ankara.

Soon after, it was stormed by a crowd of civilians and police, with four soldiers inside reportedly being “neutralized“.

The channel went back on air and Karaş, who had previously announced the coup, said live that she had been held hostage and forced to read the declaration of the coup at gunpoint.

By 01:00, it was reported that the military had pulled its forces from the Atatürk airport and people were coming inside, but by 01:13, it was reported that tanks were inside the airport and gunfire was heard.

Above: Istanbul Atatürk Airport, 2016 coup

Tanks opened fire near the Turkish Parliament Building

The parliamentary building was also hit from the air. 

Above: Parliament Building aftermath of 2016 coup

Injuries were reported among protesters following gunfire on Bosphorus Bridge.

Above: Bosphorous Bridge, 2016 coup

A helicopter belonging to the pro-coup forces was shot down by a Turkish military F-16 fighter jet.

There were also reports of pro-state jets flying over Ankara to “neutralize” helicopters used by those behind the coup.

At 03:08, a military helicopter opened fire on the Turkish parliament.

Above: Parliament Building, aftermath of 2016 coup

At 03:10, Turkish Armed Forces stated on their website that they had complete control over the country.

However, at 03:12, Yıldırım made a statement saying that the situation was under control and that a no-fly zone was declared over Ankara and that military planes that still flew would be shot down.

Above: Command Centre of the Turkish Armed Forces, Ankara

It was reported that the Turkish parliament had been bombed again at 03:23 and 03:33.

A helicopter belonging to the pro-coup forces was also seen flying by it.

Above: Aftermath of Turkish Parliament bombings, 2016 coup

Half an hour following the report of 12 deaths and 2 injuries in the parliament, soldiers entered CNN Türk’s headquarters and forced the studio to go off air.

After an hour of interruption by the pro-coup soldiers, CNN Türk resumed its broadcast.

Later, Ismail Kahraman said a bomb exploded at a corner of the public relations building inside the parliament, with no deaths but several injuries among police officers.

Above: İsmail Kahraman

At around 04:00 two or three helicopters attacked Erdogan’s hotel.

According to eyewitness accounts, ten to fifteen heavily armed men landed and started firing.

In the ensuing conflict, two policemen were killed and eight were injured.

Above: The team, consisting of Turkish SAT Commandos and Combat Search and Rescue (MAK) troops, attacked the hotel where President Erdoğan stayed.

The Doğan News Agency (DHA) reported that in Istanbul several individuals were injured after soldiers fired on a group of people attempting to cross the Bosphorus Bridge in protest of the attempted coup.

The Peace Council was eventually unable to take power after pro-coup forces were defeated and the incumbent AKP government retained control. 

Mass arrests were later made, targeting over 2,000 soldiers, including senior officers and generals.

Speculation emerged that former Turkish Air Force Commander Akin Öztürk had been in charge of the coup attempt.)

Above: Akin Öztürk

After Erdoğan flew into Istanbul, he made a televised speech inside the airport at around 04:00, whilst thousands gathered outside.

He addressed a crowd of supporters in the airport, at about 06:30.

He said:

In Turkey, armed forces are not governing the state or leading the state.

They cannot.

He blamed “those in Pennsylvania” (a reference to Fetullah Gülen, who lives in Saylorsburg, Pennsylvania, and his Hizmet Movement) for the coup attempt.

Erdoğan also said he had plans to “clean up” the army, saying that:

This uprising is a gift from God to us.

Above: President Erdoğan addresses the crowd

State-run Anadolu Agency named former Colonel Muharrem Köse, who in March 2016 was dishonorably discharged for reported association with Gülen, as the suspected leader of the coup. 

However, the Alliance for Shared Values, a non-profit organization associated with Gülen, released a statement reiterating that it condemns any military intervention in domestic politics, and saying Erdoğan’s allegations against the movement were “highly irresponsible“. 

Gülen himself said in a brief statement just before midnight:

As someone who suffered under multiple military coups during the past five decades, it is especially insulting to be accused of having any link to such an attempt.

I categorically deny such accusations.

Above: Fetullah Gülen

Reuters reported that in early hours of 16 July, the coup appeared to have “crumbled” as crowds defied pro-coup military orders and gathered in major squares of Istanbul and Ankara to oppose it. 

Reuters also reported pro-coup soldiers surrendering to the police in Taksim Square, Istanbul.

It was reported that by 05:18, Atatürk Airport had completely been recaptured by the government whilst the police had surrounded the coup inside the Turkish army headquarters, calling for them to surrender.

Between 06:00 and 08:00 a skirmish took place there.

In Akar’s absence, Ümit Dündar, head of the First Army, was appointed Acting Chief of Staff.

In the early hours of the morning of 16 July, soldiers blocking the Bosphorus Bridge surrendered to the police.

According to the government-run Anadolu Agency, this consisted of a group of 50 soldiers.

Some of these soldiers were lynched by civilians despite the police’s efforts, who fired into the air to protect the surrendering soldiers.

Meanwhile, in the headquarters of the Turkish Army, 700 unarmed soldiers surrendered as the police conducted an operation into the building while 150 armed soldiers were kept inside by the police.

The coup in the TRT building in Istanbul surrendered in the early morning as well.

Chief of Staff Akar, held hostage at the Akinci Air Base in Ankara, was also rescued by pro-state forces.

One of the primary reasons that the coup failed was chaos among the plotters’ ranks.

Turkey’s National Intelligence Organization (MİT) head Hakan Fidan discovered the coup plot, and the plotters were forced to execute the coup five hours ahead of schedule.

Above: Hakan Fidan

One of the main organizers, General Semih Terzi, was shot dead by loyalist Sergeant Major Ömer Halisdemir at the onset, demoralizing and disrupting command and control of the rebels.

Above: Semih Terzi (1968 – 2016)

These two incidents resulted in the coup being carried out in an uncoordinated manner. 

The highest ranking staff officers opposed the coup and publicly ordered all personnel to return to their barracks.

Acting outside the military chain of command, the rebels lacked the coordination and resources to achieve their goals.

The conscripted soldiers that the rebels mobilized were uninformed of their mission’s true purpose and became demoralized.

Many surrendered rather than shoot demonstrators.

The commander of the First Army in Istanbul, General Ümit Dündar, personally called Erdoğan to warn him of the plot, persuading him to evacuate his hotel ahead of the plotters, and helped to secure Istanbul for Erdoğan to land.

The MİT also mobilized its anti-aircraft guns, which the plotters were unaware existed, deterring rebel jets and commando teams.

Above: Ümit Dündar

Equally important to the coup’s failure, according to military strategist Edward N. Luttwak, was the inability of the rebels to neutralize Erdoğan and other high ranking government officials, either by killing or detaining them.

Above: Edward Luttwak

A unit of special forces was sent via helicopter to kill or capture the President, but missed because he had been evacuated by his security detail just minutes before.

Once Erdoğan landed at Atatürk Airport (which had been recaptured from the rebels by his supporters), the coup was doomed.

Above: Shoulder badge of the Turkish Special Forces

According to a military source, several rebel F-16s targeted Erdoğan’s presidential jet en route to Istanbul, but they did not fire.

A senior Turkish counter-terrorism official later stated that the jets did not fire because the fighter jet pilots were told by President Erdoğan’s pilot over the radio that the flight of the Gulfstream IV was a Turkish Airlines flight.

Above: An example of a Gulfstream IV

According to Naunihal Singh, author of Seizing Power, the coup attempt also failed because the plotters failed to secure control of the media and shape the narrative.

Successful coups require that the rebels control the mass media. 

This allows even small rebel contingents to portray themselves as fully in control, and their victory as inevitable.

Consequently, they convince the public, along with neutral and even loyalist soldiers, to defect to them or not resist.

The rebels failed to properly broadcast their messages effectively across the media that they controlled.

They failed to capture Türksat, Turkey’s main cable and satellite communications company, and failed to gain control of the country’s television and mobile phone networks.

This allowed Erdoğan to make his Facetime call, and to speak on television.

Other scholars of civil-military relations, like Drew H. Kinney, have said reports like Luttwak and Singh’s miss the point of their own analysis:

Civil resistance thwarted the coup.

Luttwak argues that wayward elements of the Turkish armed forces could not silence Erdoğan.

Singh says that the rebels could not project success because they couldn’t control the message.

Kinney states that neither of these reasons on their own matter, but rather it’s their effect — civil disobedience — that is important.

We might find that “Gülen’s movement might have had nothing to do with the attempted takeover in July, but civilians nevertheless definitely played a role in thwarting the coup,” writes Kinney.

An unhappy civilian populace mobilized to face down the military.

Above: Drew Holland Kinney

Erdoğan wasn’t censored (Luttwak’s point) and was therefore able to use FaceTime to mobilize resistance, which in turn hindered the conspirators’ ability to project success (Singh’s point).

The result is civilian resistance to soldiers, i.e., people power.

The reason Singh, Luttwak and other scholars of civil-military relations miss this is, according to Kinney, because they “usually do not study extra-military reasons for coup failures/successes“, but rather put a premium on “the inner workings of the military operation“.

In short, they blame the military for its failure rather than acknowledge the power of the masses and their successes.

Pro-state forces sent text messages to every Turkish citizen calling for them to protest against the coup attempt.

Throughout the night sela prayers were repeatedly called from mosque minarets across the country to encourage people to resist the coup plotters.

While the sela is usually called from minarets to inform the public of a funeral, they are also traditionally performed to notify of a significant event, in this case “to rally people“.

The coup plotters initiated their operation hours ahead of the planned time when they understood that their plans had been compromised.

Had the coup been launched at its original time, the middle of the night, much of the population would have been asleep.

The streets would have been mostly empty.

Reports have emerged, neither confirmed nor denied by Russia or Turkey that the Russian Main Intelligence Directorate (GRU) intercepted signals on an imminent coup passed on to loyal Turkish operatives.

The intercepted plans revealed several helicopters with commandos were on the way to Marmaris’s coastal resort, where Erdoğan stayed, capturing or killing him.

Pre-warned, Erdoğan left quickly to avoid them.

Above: Emblem of the GRU

Fethullah Gülen, whom President Erdoğan said as one of the principal conspirators, condemned the coup attempt and denied any role in it.

I condemn, in the strongest terms, the attempted military coup in Turkey,” he said in an emailed statement reported by The New York Times.

Government should be won through a process of free and fair elections, not force.

I pray to God for Turkey, Turkish citizens, and all those currently in Turkey that this situation is resolved peacefully and quickly.

As someone who suffered under multiple military coups during the past five decades, it is especially insulting to be accused of having any link to such an attempt.

I categorically deny such accusations.

President Erdoğan asked the United States to extradite Gülen:

I call on you again, after there was a coup attempt.

Extradite this man in Pennsylvania to Turkey!

If we are strategic partners or model partners, do what is necessary.”

Above: Fetullah Gülen

Prime Minister Yildirim has threatened war against any country that would support Gülen.

Above: Binali Yildirim

Turkish Labor Minister Süleyman Soylu said that “America is behind the coup“.

Above: Süleyman Soylu

Regarding the AKP’s statement against Gülen, Secretary of State John Kerry invited the Turkish government “to present us with any legitimate evidence that withstands scrutiny“, before they would accept an extradition request.

Above: John Kerry

On 15 August 2016, former United States diplomat James Jeffrey, who was the US Ambassador to Turkey from 2008 until 2010 made the following remarks:

The Gülen movement has some infiltration at the least in the military that I am aware of.

They of course had extreme infiltration into the police and judiciary earlier.

I saw that when I was in Turkey previously, particularly in the Sledgehammer case, Hakan Fidan case, and the corruption cases in 2013.

Obviously, significant segment of Turkey’s bureaucracy was infiltrated and had their allegiance to a movement.

That of course is absolutely unacceptable and extremely dangerous. It likely led to the coup attempt.

Above: James Jeffrey

Outside Turkey, in Beringen, Belgium, anti-coup protesters attempted to attack a building owned by the pro-Gülen movement group ‘Vuslat‘.

The police brought in a water cannon to keep the attackers at bay.

In news articles it was stated that the police also protected the houses of Gülen supporters.

People advocated on social media to go to Beringen once more, and there was unrest in Heusden-Zolder, elsewhere in Belgium.

Above: The Paalse Poort, gateway on Beringen’s central square

Furthermore, in Somalia the government ordered “the total closure of all activities” of an organization linked to the Gülen movement, and gave its staff seven days to leave the country.

Above: Flag of Somalia

On 2 August 2016, President Erdoğan said Western countries were “supporting terrorism” and the military coup, saying:

I’m calling on the United States:

What kind of strategic partners are we, that you can still host someone whose extradition I have asked for?

Above: Flag of the United States of America

On 31 January 2017, British Minister of State for Europe and the Americas, Alan Duncan said he believed the Gülen movement was responsible for the coup attempt.

Duncan went on saying “the organization which incorporated itself into the state tried to topple the democratic structure in Turkey“.

Above: Alan Duncan

Events surrounding the coup attempt and the purges in its aftermath reflect a complex power struggle between Islamist elites in Turkey.

During the coup attempt, over 300 people were killed and more than 2,100 were injured.

Many government buildings, including the Turkish Parliament and the Presidential Palace, were bombed from the air. 

Above: Presidential Palace

Mass arrests followed, with at least 40,000 detained, including at least 10,000 soldiers and, for reasons that remain unclear, 2,745 judges.

15,000 education staff were also suspended and the licenses of 21,000 teachers working at private institutions were revoked after the government stated they were loyal to Gülen. 

More than 77,000 people have been arrested and over 160,000 fired from their jobs, on reports of connections to Gülen.

Many reactions were against the coup attempt, both domestically and internationally.

The main opposition parties in Turkey condemned the attempt, while several international leaders — such as those of the US, NATO, the EU, and neighboring countries — called for “respect of the democratic institutions in Turkey and its elected officials“.

International organizations expressed themselves against the coup.

The UN Security Council, however, did not denounce the coup after disagreements over the phrasing of a statement.

Above: United Nations Security Council Chamber, UN Headquarters, New York City

Unlike some Middle Eastern governments that supported the coup or others that waited to see the outcome of the coup, Iran initially opposed the coup and advised Erdogan to defeat the coup plotters.

President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan said the head of US Central Command General Joseph Votel was “siding with coup plotters“, after Votel criticized the Turkish government for arresting the Pentagon’s contacts in Turkey.

Above: Joseph Votel

In March 2017, Germany’s intelligence chief said Germany was unconvinced by Erdoğan’s statement that Fethullah Gülen was behind the failed coup attempt.

Above: Flag of Germany

The same month, the British Parliament’s Foreign Affairs Select Committee said some Gulenists were involved in the coup d’état attempt but found no hard evidence that Fethullah Gülen masterminded the failed coup and found no evidence to justify the UK designating the Gülen movement as a “terrorist organization“.)

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

In 2016, the Gülen Movement was designated a terrorist organization.

Above: The “proof” against the Gülen Movement

In 2017, according to the Foreign and Commonwealth Office, there was “no evidence to justify the designation of the Gülenists as a terrorist organisation by the UK“.

The same year, Gilles de Kerchove, EU Counter Terrorism Coordinator, said that the EU didn’t see the Gülen movement as a terrorist organisation and that the EU would need “substantive” evidence to change its stance.

Above: Gilles de Kerchove

In 2018, in a conference with Turkish President Erdogan, German Chancellor Angela Merkel said that Germany needed more evidence to classify the Gülen movement as a terrorist organization.

Above: Angela Merkel

According to academic researcher Svante E. Cornell, director of the Central Asia – Caucasus Institute and Silk Road Studies Center:

With only slight exaggeration, the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) as well as the government it has led could be termed a coalition of religious orders.”

The Gülen Movement stayed away from electoral politics, focusing instead on increasing its presence in the state bureaucracy.

The Hizmet Movement’s stated success in this regard would initially make it Erdoğan’s main partner, but also his eventual nemesis.

Above: Svante E. Cornell

From 2002 to 2013, the Gülen movement comprehensively collaborated with the AKP and Erdoğan in obtaining political power in Turkey.

Questions have arisen about the Gülen Movement’s possible involvement in the ongoing Ergenekon investigation, which critics have characterized as “a pretext” by the government “to neutralize dissidents” in Turkey.

Despite Gülen’s and his followers’ statements that the organization is non-political in nature, analysts believed that a number of corruption-related arrests made against allies of Erdoğan reflect a growing political power struggle between Gülen and Erdoğan.

Above: Gülen and Erdoğan

These arrests led to the 2013 corruption scandal in Turkey, which the ruling Justice and Development Party’s supporters (along with Erdoğan himself) and the opposition parties alike have said were choreographed by Gülen after Erdoğan’s government came to the decision early in December 2013 to shut down many of his movement’s private pre-university schools in Turkey.

The Erdoğan government has said that the corruption investigation and comments by Gülen are the long term political agenda of Gülen’s movement to infiltrate security, intelligence, and justice institutions of the Turkish state, a charge almost identical to the charges against Gülen by the Chief Prosecutor of Turkey in his trial in 2000 before Erdoğan’s party had come into power.

Gülen had previously been tried in absentia in 2000, and acquitted of these charges in 2008 under Erdoğan’s AKP government.

Above: Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

The 2013 corruption scandal in Turkey or 17-25 December Corruption and Bribery Operation was a criminal investigation that involved several key people in the Turkish government.

All of the 52 people detained on 17 December were connected in various ways with the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP).

Prosecutors accused 14 people – including Suleyman Aslan, the director of state-owned Halkbank, Iranian businessman Reza Zarrab, and several family members of cabinet ministers – of bribery, corruption, fraud, money laundering and gold smuggling.

At the heart of the scandal was an alleged “gas for gold” scheme with Iran involving Aslan, who had US$4.5 million in cash stored in shoeboxes in his home, and Zarrab, who was involved in about US$9.6 billion of gold trading in 2012.

Both men were arrested.

Above: Suleyman Aslan

Above: Reza Zarrab

The scheme started after Turkish government officials found a loophole in the US sanctions against Iran that allowed them to access Iranian oil and gas.

The Turks exported some US$13 billion of gold to Iran directly, or through the United Arab Emirates (UAE), between March 2012 and July 2013.

In return, the Turks received Iranian natural gas and oil.

Above: Flag of Iran

The transactions were carried out through the Turkish state-owned bank, Halkbank.

In January 2013, the Obama Administration decided to close this loophole but instead of immediately charging Halkbank, the US government allowed its gold trading activities to continue until July 2013, because Turkey was an important ally regarding the American-led intervention in the Syrian Civil War, and the US had been working on a nuclear deal with Iran.

Above: Barrack Obama

In emailed comments to the Wall Street Journal in January 2014, Gülen said that “Turkish people are upset that in the last two years democratic progress is now being reversed“, but he denied being part of a plot to unseat the government.

Later, in January 2014 in an interview with BBC World, Gülen said:

If I were to say anything to people I may say people should vote for those who are respectful to democracy, rule of law, who get on well with people.

Telling or encouraging people to vote for a party would be an insult to peoples’ intellect.

Everybody very clearly sees what is going on.

According to some commentators, Gülen is to Erdoğan what Trotsky was to Stalin.

Above: Leon Trotsky (1879 – 1940)

Above: Joseph Stalin (1878 – 1953)

Ben Cohen of the Jewish News Syndicate wrote:

“Rather like Leon Trotsky, the founder of the Soviet Red Army who was hounded and chased out of the USSR by Joseph Stalin, Gülen has become an all-encompassing explanation for the existential threats, as Erdoğan perceives them, that are currently plaguing Turkey.

Stalin saw the influence of ‘Trotskyite counter-revolutionaries’ everywhere, and brutally purged every element of the Soviet apparatus.

Erdoğan is now doing much the same with the ‘Gülenist terrorists.'”

In March 2011, seven Turkish journalists were arrested, including Ahmet Şik, who had been writing a book, “Imamin Ordusu” (The Imam’s Army), which states that the Gülen movement has infiltrated the country’s security forces.

As Şık was taken into police custody, he shouted:

Whoever touches it the Movement gets burned!

Upon his arrest, drafts of the book were confiscated and its possession was banned.

Şık has also been charged with being part of the stated Ergenekon plot, despite being an investigator of the plot before his arrest.

Above: Ahmet Şık

In a reply, Abdullah Bozkurt, from the Gülen Movement newspaper Today’s Zaman (2007 – 2016), said Ahmet Şık was not being an investigative journalist conducting “independent research“, but was hatching “a plot designed and put into action by the terrorist network itself“.

According to Gareth H. Jenkins, a Senior Fellow of the Central Asia – Caucasus Institute and Silk Road Studies Joint Center at John Hopkins University:

From the outset, the pro-AKP media, particularly the newspapers and television channels run by the Gülen Movement such as Zaman, Today’s Zaman and Samanyolu TV, have vigorously supported the Ergenekon investigation.

This has included the illegal publication of “evidence” collected by the investigators before it has been presented in court, misrepresentations and distortions of the content of the indictments and smear campaigns against both the accused and anyone who questions the conduct of the investigations.

There have long been allegations that not only the media coverage but also the Ergenekon investigation itself is being run by Gülen’s supporters.

In August 2010, Hanefi Avci, a right-wing police chief who had once been sympathetic to the Gülen Movement, published a book in which he alleged that a network of Gülen’s supporters in the police were manipulating judicial processes and fixing internal appointments and promotions.

On 28 September 2010, two days before he was due to give a press conference to present documentary evidence to support his allegations, Avcı was arrested and charged with membership of an extremist leftist organization.

On 14 March 2011, Avcı was also formally charged with being a member of the alleged Ergenekon gang.

Above: Gareth Jenkins

The Gülen movement has also been implicated in what the opposition Republican People’s Party (CHP) – and after 2013 also President Erdoğan – have said were illegal court decisions against members of the Turkish military, including many during the Ergenekon investigation.

On 17 December 2013, an investigation into stated corrupt practices by several bureaucrats, ministers, mayors, and family members of the ruling AKP were uncovered, resulting in widespread protests and calls for the resignation of the government led by Prime Minister Erdoğan.

Due to the high level of political influence by the Gülen movement in Turkey, it is rumored to be facilitated by the movement’s influence on the Turkish police force and the judiciary, the investigation was said to be a result of a break in previously friendly relations between the Islamist-rooted government and the Movement.

President Erdoğan and the AKP have targeted the Movement since December 2013.

Immediately after the corruption statements, the government subjugated the judiciary, media and civil society critical of the government’s authoritarian trend in recent years.

After the corruption statements surfaced, Erdoğan labelled it as a “civilian coup” against his government.

Since then, Erdoğan has shuffled, dismissed or jailed hundreds of police officers, judges, prosecutors and journalists in the name of fighting against a “Parallel State” within the Turkish state.

Above: “Proof” of the “Parallel State

On 14 December 2014, Turkish police arrested more than two dozen senior journalists and media executives connected with the Gülen movement on various charges.

A statement by the US State Department cautioned Turkey not to violate its “own democratic foundations” while drawing attention to raids against media outlets “openly critical of the current Turkish government“.

EU Foreign Affairs chief Federica Mogherini and EU Enlargement Commissioner Johannes Hahn said that the arrests went “against European values” and “are incompatible with the freedom of media, which is a core principle of democracy“.

Above: Flag of the European Union

On 20 January 2015, Turkish police launched raids in Ankara and three other cities, detaining some 20 people suspected of illegally eavesdropping on President Erdoğan and other senior officials.

The suspects are linked to Turkey’s telecommunications authority and to its scientific and technological research centre TÜBITAK.

Local media said the move was aimed at the “parallel structure” — the term Erdogan uses to refer to Gülen’s supporters in the judiciary, police and other institutions.

The Turkish government took over the Gülenist Zaman Daily, on 4 March 2016.

Turkish police entered Zaman headquarters by force and fired tear gas at the protesting journalists and civilians.

Hundreds of protestors were injured.

In his efforts to eradicate the Movement within the country the Turkish National Security Council has identified the movement as the “Gülenist Terror Organization” (“Fethullahçı Terör Örgütü“)(FETÖ). 

The government has also been targeting individuals and businessmen who have supported the movement’s organizations and activities.

As aforementioned, in reaction to the 15 July 2016 coup attempt, led by a military faction operating outside the chain of command, the Turkish government quickly stated the coup’s leader to be Gülen.

In following days and weeks, a massive crackdown affected all entities affiliated to the Gülen Movement, from individuals to businesses, newspapers to schools and universities.

Above: Fetullah Gülen

Following the aforementioned assassination of Andrey Karlov, the Turkish government was reportedly investigating the assassin’s links to the “Gülenist Terrorist Organization” (FETÖ).

In a speech, President Erdogan said that the perpetrator was a member of FETÖ.

Above: Monument to Andrey Karlov on Andrey Karlov Street in Demre, Turkey

Among Turkish citizens within Turkey convicted for alleged memberships in the Gülen movement are Turkey’s honorary president of Amnesty International, Taner Kilic, and Amnesty’s Turkish branch, Idil Eser, in July 2020.

As of 2020, Turkey had successfully pressured a number of countries, especially those in Africa and Russia, to extradite over 80 alleged Gülenists to Turkey.

Above: Flag of Russia

In 2019 it was reported that Interpol had denied Turkey’s appeals of the agency’s rejections of Turkey’s red notice requests regarding 464 fugitives, citing Interpol’s legal definition of the 2016 Turkish coup d’état attempt as not terrorism but a failed military putsch.

In 2018, approximately 25,000 Turkish asylum requests were filed by alleged Gülenists in the European Union (a rise of 50% from 2017), with Germany’s share 10,000 and Greece’s about 5,000.

Above: Flag of Greece

Within the US, according to news reports, a number of Gülenists successfully receiving political asylum status are resettled in New Jersey.

Above: Flag of US state New Jersey

Opinions are like noses – everyone has one.

But there is something not quite right in my mind with the government account of events surrounding the Gülen Movement.

I find myself thinking of Niccolò Machiavelli and the notion that a prince must appear to be indispensable if he wishes to maintain power over his people.

Nothing makes a leader more indispensable than the notion that the nation must be defended against enemies, foreign and domestic.

Thus a nation must always have the perception that it has enemies.

Above: Niccolò Machiavelli (1469 – 1527)

But who shall we choose as our enemy?

Nationalism in Turkey is a powerful force.

Turks have no friends but themselves.” is a nationalist adage.

The nationalist tenets – including the depiction of Kurds as a threat to the unitary state, as well as the belief that Western powers have an ulterior strategy to divide and weaken Turkey – have found a comfortable place in the political mainstream.

Above: (in orange) Kurdistan in Turkey

Playing upon fears of an erosion of secularism, the elimination of democratic rule, and the disregard for human rights that the Islamic faith if unchecked might pose against the power of the state – the very same fears the Council cited as reasons for their attempted 2016 coup – the Gülen Movement has proven to be a very convenient target.

I am not suggesting that the entire Gülen body of believers are not culpable of all they have been accused of, but so many of the accusations cast upon them seem more like allegations rather than actual proofs of criminality.

The same arguments that President Erdoğan uses to defend Islam against those who would label all Muslims as terrorists could also apply to the Gülen Movement.

Just as not all Kurds support the violent acts of the PKK, not all who espouse the Movement’s tenets are guilty of the wrongful acts some Gülenists have been accused of.

It remains a constant in human psychology to label all members of a group by the actions of a few within that group.

Certainly many of us find it easy to condemn an entire nation of people for the ill-advised activities of its government.

Perhaps the tenacity of the Gülen Movement to adapt Islam to modernity, to make the faith of the Prophet a vehicle for social change, has left the powerful of Ankara nervous about the maintenance of their control over the hearts and minds of the Turkish people.

Demarginalize and denigrate the Movement and thus remove its potential to usurp power is the apparent strategy.

The need to diminish divinity and dominate the desires of faith in the name of preserving power seems to be the theme here in Turkey.

Ankara will tolerate religious expression unless it is the expression of dissent.

The power of belief is powerful if harnessed, channeled, controlled, monitored.

But all the edicts from all the governments in the world will never prevent humanity from seeking wisdom and comfort in a faith, regardless of whether religion is sometimes contrary to reason.

All Ankara can do is persuade people that some of the religious are not as good as they claim to be.

Above: Erdoğan vs Gülen

The opposite holds true in Europe.

Above: St. Gallen, Switzerland

A word first on religion in Switzerland, where, through marriage, I maintain a second residency.

Religion in Switzerland is predominantly Christianity, which, according to the national survey of the Swiss Federal Statistical Office in 2020 was adhered to by 61.2% of the Swiss people, of whom 33.8% were Catholics, 21.8% were Swiss Protestants, and 5.6% were followers of other Christian denominations.

Above: Tower of the Swiss Federal Statistical Office in Neuchâtel

The proportion of Christians has declined significantly since 1980, when they constituted about 94% of the population.

During the same time span, irreligious Swiss have grown from about 4% to 31% of the population, and people professing non-Christian religions have grown from about 1% to 7% of the population.

In 2020, according to church registers, 35.2% of the population were registered members of the country’s Catholic Church, while 23.3% were registered members of the Protestant Church of Switzerland.

Above: Typical large clocks characterising the towers of Swiss Protestant churches: here St. Peter and Fraumünster, Zürich.

Christianity was adopted by the Gaulish (mostly Helvetians) and Germanic (mostly Alemans) ancestors of the modern Swiss respectively between the 4th and 5th century late Roman domination and between the 6th and 7th century Frankish domination, abandoning their indigenous paganisms.

The Old Swiss Confederacy, which began to emerge in the 13th century, remained entirely Catholic until the 16th century, when it became one of the centres of the Protestant Reformation as a majority of the Swiss joined the Protestant movement of Calvinism.

Above: Flag of the Old Swiss Confederacy (1300 – 1798)

Conflicts, and even civil wars, between Protestants and Catholics persisted until the Sonderbund War of 1847, after which freedom of conscience was established by law — only for Christians. 

Legal discrimination against Jews and some restrictions against the Catholic Church persisted until the end of the 20th century. 

In the early 20th century, Switzerland had an absolute majority of Protestants (about 60%) and a large population of Catholics (about 40%).

Since the late 20th century and throughout the 21st century, the religious composition of the country has changed significantly, with a rise of the irreligious population, a sharp decline of Protestantism to about two tenths of the population, and a less sharp decline of Catholicism to about three tenths of the population.

Switzerland has no state religion, though most of its cantons (except for Geneva and Neuchâtel) recognise official churches (Landeskirchen), in all cases Catholic and Swiss Protestant, and in some cantons also the Old Catholic Church and Jewish congregations.

These churches are financed by taxation of their adherents.

In other words, taxpayer funded, albeit voluntarily.

A person can declare oneself to be irreligious and forego this tax payment.

Islam is the second largest religion in Switzerland after Christianity, adhered to by 5.4% of the population in 2020.

Swiss Muslims are mostly of foreign origin (mostly of Arab ancestry in the Gallo-Romance (French/Italian) regions, and mostly of Balkan, Turkish and Iranian ancestry in the Germanic regions), although there is an increasing number of native Swiss converts.

Above: Mosque, Wil, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Religious Jews represented 0.2% of the Swiss population in 2020.

Above: Jewish synagogue, La Chaux de Fonds, Canton Neuchâtel, Switzerland

Other religions present in the country include Hinduism and Buddhism, practised by both local Swiss who have nurtured interest in Eastern doctrines and by immigrants from Asia.

Above: Interior of Sri Sivasubrahmaniar Hindu Temple, Adliswil, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Der Wat Srinagarindravararam Thai Buddhist Temple, Gretzenbach, Canton Solothurn, Switzerland

There is a Taoist temple, Ming Shan (“Mountain of Light“), located in Bullet, Vaud, and built according to the rules of feng shui.

It is the headquarters of the Swiss Taoist Association and the main centre in Europe of the Taoist tradition of Wujimen (“Gate of Infinity“), which originated in the Min Mountains of Sichuan, China.

Above: Ming Shang Taoist Temple, Bullet, Canton Vaud, Switzerland

In the country there are also various new religious movements, among which one of the most influential has been the theosophy-derived anthroposophy.

Above: Logo for the Theosophical Society

(Theosophy is a commitment “to form a nucleus of the Universal Brotherhood of Humanity without distinction of race, creed, sex, caste or colour“.

Anthroposophy is a movement that postulates the existence of an objective, intellectually comprehensible spiritual world, accessible to human experience.

Followers of anthroposophy aim to engage in spiritual discovery through a mode of thought independent of sensory experience.

They also aim to present their ideas in a manner verifiable by rational discourse and in studying the spiritual world seek comparable precision and clarity to that obtained by scientists investigating the physical world.)

Above: Goetheanum, Dornach, Canton Solothurn, Switzerland

The Anthroposophical Society was established by the Austrian occultist Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s and 1930s in Dornach, Solothurn.

Above: Rudolf Steiner (1861 – 1925)

Some observers have identified persisting discrimination against Jews and Muslims in Switzerland.

While cases of harassment have mostly been verbal, after 2016 there were a few reports of physical assault against Jews.

Muslim cemeteries were targets of vandalism.

In the November 2009 referendum, 57.5% of Swiss voters approved a popular initiative which prohibited the construction of minarets as part of Swiss Islamic mosques (though the four existing minarets of mosques in Zürich, Geneva, Winterthur and Wangen bei Olten were not affected retroactively and have remained in place).

Above: Mahmud Mosque, Zürich

This referendum originates from action on 1 May 2007, when a group of right of centre politicians, mainly from the Swiss People’s Party (SVP) (the ruling party) and the Federal Democratic Union (EDU), the Egerkinger Komittee (“Egerkingen Committee“) launched a federal popular initiative that sought a constitutional ban on minarets.

Above: Logo of the SVP

The minaret at the mosque of the local Turkish cultural association in Wangen bei Olten was the initial motivation for the initiative.

The association applied for a construction permit to erect a 6-metre-high minaret on the roof of its Islamic community centre.

The project faced opposition from surrounding residents, who had formed a group to prevent the tower’s erection.

The Turkish association claimed that the building authorities improperly and arbitrarily delayed its building application.

They also believed that the members of the local opposition group were motivated by religious bias.

The Communal Building and Planning Commission rejected the association’s application.

The applicants appealed to the Building and Justice Department, which reverted the decision and remanded.

As a consequence of that decision, local residents and the commune of Wangen brought the case before the Administrative Court of the Canton of Solothurn, but failed with their claims.

On appeal the Federal Supreme Court affirmed the decision of the lower court.

The 6-metre / 20 foot -high minaret was erected in July 2009.

Above: Mosque, Wangen bei Olten, Canton Solothurn, Switzerland

The Committee opined that the interests of residents, who are disturbed by specific kinds of religious land uses, are to be taken seriously.

Moreover, it argued that Swiss residents should be able to block unwanted and unusual projects such as the erection of Islamic minarets.

The Committee alleged that:

The construction of a minaret has no religious meaning.

Neither in the Qu’ran nor in any other holy scripture of Islam is the minaret expressly mentioned at any point.

The minaret is far more a symbol of a claim of religious-political power.”

Above: Old mill, Egerkingen, Canton Solothurn, Switzerland

The initiators justified their point of view by quoting parts of a speech in 1997 by Recep Tayyip Erdogan (later Prime Minister and President of Turkey), which stated:

Mosques are our barracks, domes our helmets, minarets our bayonets, believers our soldiers.

This holy army guards my religion.”

Ulrich Schluer, one of the Egerkinger Committee’s most prominent spokesmen, stated on that point:

A minaret has nothing to do with religion:

It just symbolises a place where Islamic law is established.

Above: Ulrich Schlüer

The Committee’s campaign featured posters featuring a drawing of a Muslim woman in an abaya and niqab, next to a number of minarets on a Swiss flag pictured in a way “reminiscent of missiles“.

Above: “Stop“, “Yes to the minaret ban“.

The SVP also published a similar poster, with the minarets protruding through the Swiss flag.

A few days before the election, campaigners drove a vehicle near Geneva Mosque in the Le Petit-Saconnex quarter imitating the adhan, the Islamic call to ritual prayer (salat) using loudspeakers.

Above: “Censorship, one more reason to say yes to the minaret ban“.

The British newspaper The Times cited support of the minaret ban from “radical feminists” who opposed the oppression of women in Islamic societies.

Among those named were the notable Dutch feminist and former politician Ayaan Hirso Ali, who gave her support to the ban with an article entitled “Swiss ban on minarets was a vote for tolerance and inclusion“.

Above: Ayaan Hirsi Ali

The Times further reported that in pre-election polling, Swiss women supported the ban by a greater percentage than Swiss men.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

The traditionalist Society of St Pius X (SSPX), which has its headquarters at Ecône in Switzerland, supported the ban on minarets, denouncing opposition to the ban by some Catholic bishops:

The confusion is maintained by certain Vatican II Council authorities between tolerating a person, whatever his religion, and tolerating an ideology that is incompatible with Christian tradition.”

It explained its support of the ban:

The Islamic doctrine cannot be accepted when you know what it is all about.

How can one expect to condone the propagation of an ideology that encourages husbands to beat their wives, the “believer” to murder the “infidel”, a justice that uses body mutilation as punishment, and pushes to reject Jews and Christians?

Above: Logo of the Society of St. Pius X

On 28 August 2008 the Swiss Federal Council opposed a building ban on minarets.

It said that the popular initiative against their construction had been submitted in accordance with the applicable regulations, but infringed guaranteed international human rights and contradicted the core values of the Swiss Federal Constitution.

It believed a ban would endanger peace between religions and would not help to prevent the spread of fundamentalist Islamic beliefs.

In its opinion, the Federal Council therefore recommended the Swiss people to reject the initiative.

Above: Logo of the Swiss Confederation

On 24 October 2008 the Federal Commission against Racism criticized the initiative, claiming that it defamed Muslims and violated religious freedom, which was protected by fundamental human rights and the ban on discrimination.

The Swiss government recommended that the proposed amendment be rejected as inconsistent with the basic principles of the Constitution.

However, after the results were tabulated, the government immediately announced that the ban was in effect.

Above: Results of the Minaret Initiative, 2009

The Society for Minorities in Switzerland called for freedom and equality and started an Internet-based campaign in order to gather as many symbolic signatures as possible against a possible minaret ban.

Amnesty International warned the minaret ban aimed to exploit fears of Muslims and encourage xenophobia for political gains.

This initiative claims to be a defense against rampant Islamification of Switzerland.”, Daniel Bolomey, the head of Amnesty’s Swiss office, said in a statement cited by Agence France-Presse (AFP). “But it seeks to discredit Muslims and defames them, pure and simple.”

Economie Suisse considered that an absolute construction ban would hit Swiss foreign interests negatively, claiming that merely the launch of the initiative had caused turmoil in the Islamic world.

The Swiss-based Unser Recht (“Our Law“) association published a number of articles against the minaret ban.

In autumn 2009, the Swiss Journal of Religious Freedom launched a public campaign for religious harmony, security, and justice in Switzerland, and distributed several thousand stickers in the streets of Zürich in support of the right to religious freedom.

Roman Catholic bishops opposed a minaret ban.

A statement from the Swiss Bishops Conference said that a ban would hinder interreligious dialogue and that the construction and operation of minarets were already regulated by Swiss building codes.

The statement added that:

Our request for the initiative to be rejected is based on our Christian values and the democratic principles in our country.

The official journal of the Roman Catholic Church in Switzerland published a series of articles on the minaret controversy.

Above: Stiftskirche St. Gallen and Othmar, St. Gallen

The Federation of Swiss Protestant Churches held that the federal popular initiative was not about minarets, but was rather an expression of the initiators’ concern and fear of Islam.

It viewed a minaret ban as a wrong approach to express such objections.

Above: Logo of the Federation of Swiss Protestant Churches

The Swiss Federation of Jewish Communities was also against any ban on building minarets.

Dr Herbert Winter, the president of the Federation, said in 2009:

As Jews we have our own experience.

For centuries we were excluded:

We were not allowed to construct synagogues or cupola roofs.

We do not want that kind of exclusion repeated.

Above: Logo of the Swiss Federation of Jewish Communities

Other religious organisations described the idea of a complete minaret ban as lamentable:

  • the Association of Evangelical Free Churches

Above: Logo of the Swiss Association of Evangelical Free Churches

  • the Swiss Evangelical Alliance

  • the Old Catholic Church in Switzerland

Above: Jesuit Church, Luzern

  • the Covenant of Swiss Baptists

  • the Salvation Army

  • the Federation of Evangelical Lutheran Churches in Switzerland

Above: Worship service for the 500th anniversary of the Reformation and 50 years of the Federation of Lutheran Churches in Switzerland and the Principality of Liechtenstein

  • the Orthodox Diocese of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople

Above: Coat of Arms of the Ecumenical Patriarchate Constantinople

  • the Serbian Orthodox Church in Switzerland

Above: Official coat of arms of Serbian Orthodox Church

  • the Anglican Church in Switzerland

Above: Canterbury Cathedral, England

Marcel Stüssi argued that any ban would be incompatible with articles of international law, to which Switzerland was a signatory.

In any case, cantonal zoning laws already prohibited the construction of buildings that did not match their surroundings.

Right-wing initiatives like the minaret one can misuse the system,” said Stüssi.

He called the initiative “obsolete and unnecessary“, but added that the public discourse on the issue could put Switzerland in a positive light, at least for the majority who at that point opposed a ban.

In July 2008, before the popular initiative, he argued that:

Crisis always creates an opportunity.

A popular vote against a proposed ban would be the highest declaration for the recognition of the Swiss Muslim community.”

It would also be an expressed statement that anybody is equally subject to the law and to the political process,” Stüssi said in an interview with World Radio Switzerland.

Above: Marcel Stüssi, Faculty of Law, University of Luzern

Heinrich Koller stated that:

Switzerland must abide by international law because both systems together form a unity.”

Above: Heinrich Koller, University of Basel

Giusep Nay stated that any state action must be in accordance with fundamental material justice, and applied not only to interpretations of applicable law but also to new law.

Above: Giusep Nay, former President of the Swiss Supreme Court

Erwin Tanner saw the initiative as breaching not only the constitutionally entrenched right to religious freedom, but also the rights to freedom of expression, enjoyment of property, and equality.

Above: Erwin Tanner, director of Missio Switzerland

The editorial board of the Revue de Droit Suisse (Swiss Law Review) called for invalidation of the initiative as “it appears that the material content of popular initiatives is subject to ill-considered draftsmanship because the drafters are affected by particular emotions that merely last for snatches.”

Sami Aldeeb positioned himself for the ban on the erection of minarets in Switzerland, since in his opinion the Constitution allows prayer, but not shouting.

Above: Swiss Palestinian lawyer Sami Aldeeb

An independent study carried out by political scientists Markus Freitag (University of Konstanz), Thomas Milic and Adrian Vatter (University of Bern) noted a good level of knowledge among voters.

Contrary to what had been previously thought, the surveys before the referendum did not influence voters, as it is hard to do so with people who are accustomed to them.

Those who voted did so according to their political convictions, and by taking into account the different arguments.

The study also attributed the result to the fact that supporters of the ban overwhelmingly turned out to vote in the referendum.

In March 2010, the Geneva-based UN Human Rights Council (UNHRC) narrowly passed a resolution condemning “defamation of religion“, which included reference to “Islamophobic” bans on building new minarets on mosques.

Above: Logo for the United Nations Human Rights Council

The resolution was proposed by the Organization of the Islamic Conference (OIC).

OIC representative Babacar Ba said that the resolution was a “way to reaffirm once again our condemnation of the decision to ban construction of minarets in Switzerland.”

Above: Logo of the OIC

The resolution was opposed, mostly by Western nations, but it gained a majority due to the votes of Muslim nations, in addition to the support of other countries such as Cuba and China.

Eight states abstained.

Above: Flag of the United Nations

US Ambassador Eileen Donahoe criticized the resolution as an “instrument of division” and an “ineffective way to address” concerns about discrimination.

Above: Ambassador Eileen Donahue

The ban was also mentioned in the UNHRC special rapporteur on contemporary forms of racism, racial discrimination, xenophobia and related intolerance in his 2010 report to the UN General Assembly.

Above: UN General Assembly Hall, UN Headquarters, New York City

French Foreign Minister Bernard Kouchner condemned the ban, calling it “an expression of intolerance“, and said it amounted to “religious oppression“, hoping Switzerland would reverse its decision.

Above: Bernard Kouchner

Sweden condemned the ban, with Foreign Minister Carl Bildt stating that:

It’s an expression of quite a bit of prejudice and maybe even fear, but it is clear that it is a negative signal in every way, there’s no doubt about it“.

He also stated that:

Normally Sweden and other countries have city planners that decide this kind of issue.

To decide this kind of issue in a referendum seems very strange to me.”

Above: Carl Bildt

Then-Turkish President Abdullah Gül called the ban “shameful“.

Above: Abdullah Gül

Iranian Foreign Minister Manoucher Mottaki phoned his Swiss counterpart, and stated that the ban went “against the prestige of a country which claims to be an advocate of democracy and human rights“, and that it would “damage Switzerland’s image as a pioneer of respecting human rights among the Muslims’ public opinion“.

He also claimed that “values such as tolerance, dialogue, and respecting others’ religions should never be put to referendum“, and warned Switzerland of the “consequences of anti-Islamic acts“, and expressed hopes that the Swiss government would “take necessary steps and find a constitutional way to prevent the imposition of this ban“.

Above: Manouchehr Mottaki

Switzerland’s Ambassador to Iran was summoned before the Foreign Ministry, which protested against the ban.

Above: Logo of the Iranian Ministry of Foreign Affairs

Then-Libyan leader Muammar al-Gaddafi cited the minaret ban as grounds for his call for a jihad against Switzerland in a speech held in Benghazi on the occasion of Mawlid, four months after the vote.

Gaddafi also called on Muslims around the world to boycott Switzerland, and stated that:

Any Muslim in any part of the world that works with Switzerland is an apostate, is against Muhammad, Allah, and the Koran“.

Gaddafi called Switzerland an “infidel, obscene state which is destroying mosques“.

Above: Muammar al Gaddafi (1942 – 2011)

Libyan government spokesperson Mohammed Baayou announced that Libya had imposed an embargo on all economic and commercial exchanges with Switzerland.

Above: Flag of Libya

The Swiss referendum was welcomed by several European far right parties.

Above: Logo of the Alliance for the Future of Austria

Above: Logo of the Freedom Party of Austria

Above: Logo of the Danish People’s Party

Above: Logo of the Front National, France

Above: Logo of the Dutch Party for Freedom

Above: Logo of Italy’s Northern League

To my knowledge, the ban has never been reversed.

Above: On 8 December 2009, a mock minaret was erected over an industrial storage facility in Bussigny, Canton Vaud, Switzerland, in protest against the referendum outcome.

I must confess I am weary of Islamophobia, not because I am necessarily biased towards Islam as I now live in a predominantly Muslim nation, but because I have seen too many examples in religion and politics of entire groups being accused of the wrongdoing of a few within these groups.

We are not all the same.

We were born as individuals.

We live our lives as individuals.

We make individual decisions as to what we choose to believe, choose to think, choose to be.

The problem with religion is not with the faith itself, but rather with those who claim to follow that faith.

Above: Praying Hands, Albrecht Dürer

How many Muslims actually follow the teachings of Muhammad in the manner in which he intended?

Above: Al-Masjid an-Nabawi (“the Prophet’s mosque“) in Medina, Saudi Arabia, with the Green Dome built over Muhammad’s tomb in the centre

How many Christians actually act Christ-like?

Above: Christ the Saviour (Pantokrator), a 6th-century icon from Saint Catherine’s Monastery, Mount Sinai

How many Buddhists view the Buddha in the manner in which he wished to be viewed?

Above: Seated Buddha, Sarnath Museum, India

The same questioning can be extended to not only other religions but as well to the realms of philosophy and politics.

For example, how would Abraham Lincoln view the American Republican Party of today?

Above: Abraham Lincoln (1809 – 1865)

Above: Logo of the Republican Party

There are those who claim to represent Islam and do acts that run contrary to the sacred text of the Qu’ran.

Let us not paint the acts of a few as representative of the will of the majority.

Above: Muslim men at prayer, Umayyad Mosque, Damascus, Syria

No Muslim resident in Switzerland expects the adhan to be broadcast over Basel, just as no Christian in Turkey expects to hear church bells pealing in the streets of Konya.

Above: Images of Basel, Switzerland

Above: Konya, Turkey

Certainly it would be a fine thing to find minarets in Montreux or steeples in Izmir, but to assume that giving a minority the right to practice their faith will lead to that minority seeking to impose their faith upon the majority that surrounds them presupposes that every believer is infused with the zeal to become a missionary hellbent on converting the locals.

Above: Montreux, Switzerland

Above: Izmir, Turkey

That notion is as ridiculous as this Canadian blogger expecting everyone in Eskisehir to fly the maple leaf standard, subscribe to a sports channel that shows curling and ice hockey, and to demand poutine be served in all city restaurants.

Above: Flag of Canada

Above: Curling

Above: Ice hockey

Above: Poutine, Montréal, Québec, Canada

I did not come to Turkey expecting to make Canadians out of Turks.

Neither am I afraid of losing my Canadian identity to the Turkish environment that surrounds me.

I adapt insofar as I need to be respectful of the customs of the country wherein I find myself, but I will never become Turkish.

Because this is both impossible and undesirable.

My homeland is a part of who I am and though I may be distant from it Canada has defined who I am.

I will gladly try the local cuisine, try to learn the language, try to understand how the locals think.

But this is not to say I would prefer the fare of Trabzon to the cuisine of Toronto.

Above: Trabzon, Turkey

Above: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

This is not to say I will ever feel more comfortable speaking Turkish than my mother tongue of English.

This is not to say that an understanding of how the locals think will mean an automatic agreement with all that they think.

In Turkey, politics clashes with religion where the former feels threatened by the latter.

In Switzerland, politics attempts to use fear of unfamiliar faiths to exercise control over its native population.

In both nations, and perhaps universally around the globe, the reality of the conflict is never about morality.

It has been and always will be about wealth and power.

Religion may be the excuse, but it is never the real reason.

Religion should not involve itself in politics nor government regulate faith.

But what should be rarely is.

Please don’t tell me what to believe.

Please don’t tell me how to believe.

When I consider the gates of Heaven I find myself wondering:

Can we get there from here?

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Andrew Finkel, Turkey: What Everyone Needs to Know / Magsie Hamilton Little, The Thing about Islam: Exposing the Myths, Facts and Controversies / Orhan Pamuk, The Museum of Innocence

Swiss Miss and the Love Market

Eskişehir, Turkey, Saturday 26 March 2022

Since I have moved to Turkey for work, my conversations with Heidi / Swiss Miss have been few and far between.

And so it has become easier to neglect my account of her adventures in place of themes more immediate to my attention.

Though her travels are still worth writing about –

(I have previously written about her journeys in Myanmar and Sri Lanka, and had began an account of her sojourn in Vietnam.

Since Vietnam, she has been to Thailand, Morocco, Egypt, Israel, Central America and Ecuador.) –

I sometimes need to read something in the news as a reminder that my accounts (and her travels) are still incomplete.

Of course, the troubles in Myanmar are never far from my mind since the military coup, but I have felt unsure of my comprehension of that situation thus far.

I have tried to write about faraway places with strange sounding names only through the eyes of those people I have known.

Myanmar is worthy of future discussion, but for now it is a discussion I have postponed.

Above: Flag of Myanmar

On Tuesday 8 March 2022, I watched Uncharted at the Özdilek Cinetime cinema in my neighbourhood.

Uncharted is a 2022 American action-adventure film, based on the video game franchise of the same name.

It stars Tom Holland, Mark Wahlberg, Sophia Ali, Tati Gabrielle and Antonia Banderas.

In the film, Drake (Holland) is recruited by Sullivan (Wahlberg) in a race against corrupt billionaire Santiago Moncada (Banderas) and mercenary leader Jo Braddock (Gabrielle) to locate the fabled treasure of the 1519 Magellan expedition.

Having seen the film I find myself in agreement with many of its critics:

  • Promisingly cast but misleadingly titled, Uncharted mines its bestselling source material to produce a disappointing echo of superior adventure films.
  • Holland’s performance has undeniable charisma and sincerity that makes him tirelessly likable.
  • Uncharted is an efficient, soulless hologram.
  • There’s a lot to Uncharted that feels haphazard or under-considered.
  • Banderas is a colourless villain.
  • Every line feels as if it had to pass a corporate committee vote.
  • Uncharted lacks stakes, genuine peril, or adrenaline-pumping adventure.
  • The film feels thrown together with the hope a name brand will tie it all together.
  • Uncharted is an amalgam of clichés past their sell-by date.
  • The film feels uptight and joyless.
  • Uncharted was aggressively average.
  • Our heroes quip, defy physics, but never feel like they’re in any danger.
  • The film can’t commit to a focus or a tone, making it feel much longer than it actually is, all throughout.

It was the type of film I am glad I saw, but I would never buy the DVD of it.

Would I ban it from being shown?

Vietnam has, but not for the quality of the film itself.

Relations between Vietnam and China have been back and forth for thousands of years.

Above: China (green) and Vietnam (orange)

Despite their Sinospheric and socialist background, centuries of conquest by modern China’s imperial predecessor have made Vietnam wary of the Chinese government.

Above: Flags of China (left) and Vietnam (right)

Although China assisted North Vietnam during the Vietnam War (1955 – 1975), relations between the two nations soured after North Vietnam decided to engage in peace talks with the United States in 1968 and accelerated following Vietnam’s reunification in 1975.

Above: Montage of the Vietnam War

The root cause was the Vietnamese ouster of the Khmer Rouge, who had become genocidal, from power in Cambodia, a party that China had propped up.

Above: Flag of Democratic Kampuchea

China invaded Vietnam in 1979, known as the Sino-Vietnamese War.

Cross border raids and skirmishes ensued, in which China and Vietnam fought a prolonged border war from 1979 to 1990.

Above: Map of Vietnamese cities that were attacked by the Chinese

Both sides have since worked to improve their diplomatic and economic ties, although the two countries remain in dispute over political and territorial issues in the South China Sea (or East Sea).

China share a 1,281 kilometre / 769 mile border.

In 2014, a survey conducted by the Pew Research Center showed 84% of Vietnamese were concerned that disputes relating to the South China Sea could lead to military conflict.

However, the two countries have been striving for restraint as well as present and future stability. 

The two countries’ political parties, although having faced a number of concerns, have since maintained socialist ties.

On 12 March, it was reported by Reuters that Vietnam banned Sony and Tom Holland’s action adventure film Uncharted over the weekend because of a scene featuring a map that shows China’s favoured territorial claims in the South China Sea.

The map displayed in the scene includes the so-called “nine-dash line”, which is used on official Chinese maps to illustrate the country’s vast claims over the strategically important South China Sea, including areas rich in natural resources that Vietnam regards as its own territory.

Above: The nine-dash line

The film was banned from distribution after we watched it and found it contained an illegal image of the infamous nine-dash line”, state-run Vietnam News Agency reported, citing Vi Kien Thanh, head of the Department of Cinema, a government body that overseas the import of foreign films.

Above: Vi Kien Thanh

The South China / East Sea disputes involve both island and maritime claims within the region by several sovereign states, namely Brunei, China, Taiwan, Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines and Vietnam.

An estimated US$3.37 trillion worth of global trade passes through the South China Sea annually, which accounts for a third of the global maritime trade.

80% of China’s energy imports and 39.5 percent of China’s total trade passes through the South China Sea.

The disputes involve the islands, reefs, banks, and other features of the South China Sea, including the Spratly Islands, Paracel Islands, Scarborough Shaol, and various boundaries in the Gulf of Tonkin.

There are further disputes, such as the waters near the Indonesian Natuna Islands, which many do not regard as part of the South China Sea.

Claimant states are interested in retaining or acquiring the rights to fishing stocks, the exploration and potential exploitation of crude oil and natural gas in the seabed of various parts of the South China Sea, and the strategic control of important shipping lanes. 

Maritime security is also an issue, as the ongoing disputes present challenges for shipping.

Above: Ships of the Malaysian, Singapore, British, Australian and New Zealand Navy in the South China Sea during Exercise Bersama Lima, 2018

In 2013, China began island building in the Spratly Islands and the Paracel Islands region.

According to Reuters, island building in the South China Sea primarily by Vietnam and the Philippines has been going on for decades.

While China has come late to the island building game, its efforts have been on an unprecedented scale as it had, from 2014 to 2016, constructed more new island surface than all other nations have constructed throughout history, and, as of 2016, placed military equipment on one of its artificial islands unlike the other claimants.

Above: Southeast aerial view of Chinese-settled Woody Island.
The island is also claimed by Taiwan and Vietnam.

A 2019 article in Voice of America that compared China and Vietnam’s island building campaign in the South China Sea similarly noted that the reason why Vietnam in contradistinction to China has been subject to little international criticism and even support was because of the slower speed and widely perceived defensive nature of its island-building project.

Above: Logo of Voice of America

China’s actions in the South China Sea have been described as part of its “salami slicing” / “cabbage wrapping” strategies.

Above: Fiery Cross Reef being transformed by China, 2015

(China’s salami slicing refers to a strategy by which the government of China is said to use small provocations, none of which would constitute a casus belli (reason for war) by itself, but cumulatively produce a much larger action or result in China’s favor which would have been difficult or unlawful to perform all at once.

Above: China’s outposts in the disputed South China Sea are often cited as examples of a “salami slicing” tactic.

In 1996, a US Institute of Peace report on the territorial disputes in the South China Sea wrote:

Analysts point to Chinese “salami tactics”, in which China is said to test the other claimants through aggressive actions, then back off when it meets significant resistance.”

Cabbage tactics is a military swarming and overwhelming tactic used by the Chinese Navy to seize control of islands.

It is a tactic to overwhelm and seize control of an island by surrounding and wrapping the island in successive layers of Chinese naval ships, China Coast Guard ships, and fishing boats, cutting the island off from outside support.)

Since 2015 the US and other states, such as France and the UK, have conducted freedom of navigation operations (FONOP) in the region.

In July 2016, an arbitration tribunal constituted under Annex VII of the UN Convention on the Law of the Sea (UNCLOS) ruled against the China’s maritime claims in Philippines v. China.

The tribunal did not rule on the ownership of the islands or delimit maritime boundaries.

Both China and Taiwan stated that they did not recognize the tribunal and insisted that the matter should be resolved through bilateral negotiations with other claimants.

Above: Chinese territorial claims (red line), 2010s

On 17 September 2020, France, Germany, and the UK issued a joint note verbale (a formal transcipt of an oral discussion) challenging China’s claims.

In January 2022, the US State Department called China’s claims in the South China Sea “unlawful“.

The nine-dash line, at various times also referred to as the ten-dash line and the eleven-dash line (by Taiwan), are line segments on various maps that accompany the claims of China and Taiwan in the South China Sea.

An early map showing a U-shaped eleven-dash line was first published by the Taiwanese government on 1 December 1947.

Above: Flag of Taiwan

Two of the dashes in the Gulf of Tonkin were later removed at the behest of Chinese Premier Zhou Enlai after a treaty with Vietnam, reducing the total to nine.

Above: Chinese Premier Chou En-Lai (1898 – 1976)

However, Taiwan still uses the eleven-dash line.

A 10th dash to the east of Taiwan was added in 2013 by China, extending the line into the East China Sea.

On 12 July 2016, an arbitral tribunal constituted under the UN Convention on the Law of the Sea (UNCLOS) concluded that China’s historic-rights claim over the maritime areas (as opposed to land territories and territorial waters) inside the nine-dash line has no lawful effect if it exceeds what China is entitled to under the UNCLOS.

One of the arguments was that China had not exercised exclusive control over these waters and resources.

It also clarified that it would not “rule on any question of sovereignty over land territory and would not delimit any maritime boundary between the Parties“.

Various media considered the award as an invalidation of China’s claims and the nine-dash line. 

The ruling was rejected by both China and Taiwan governments.

Other claimants in the South China Sea approved the ruling.

Above: Flag of the United Nations

This dispute has never been resolved in the minds of those nations involved.

The awareness of the possibility of war over these claims lies just beneath the surface, just across the border, of their interactions.

Sapa, the subject of this post, is a mere 38km northwest of the Chinese border at Lào Cai.

Above: Lào Cai, Vietnam

As Vietnam fans out above Hanoi towards the Chinese and Laotian borders, it attains its maximum width of 600km, most of it a mountainous buffer zone wrapped around the Red River Delta.

This wild remote region contains some of Vietnam’s most awe-inspiring scenery, sparsely populated by a fascinating mosaic of ethnic minorities.

Most visitors gravitate to the northwest, (and Heidi was not an exception in this regard), where the country’s highest mountain range and its highest peak, Mount Fan Si Pan, rise abruptly from the Red River Valley.

Above: Mount Fansipan

Within its shadow lies Sa Pa, a former French hill station and the base for trekking through superb scenery to isolated minority hamlets.

Above: Sa Pa / Sapa, Vietnam

To the east of the Red River, Bac Ha’s major draw are the Flower Hmong, whose markets are great fun.

Above: Bac Ha market

These two towns (Sa Pa and Bac Ha) – and the historic battlefield of Dien Bien Phu, the site of the Viet Minh’s decisive victory over French forces in 1954 – are the most visited places in the North.

Above: Dien Bien Phu

From Dien Bien Phu, it is worth considering the scenic route back to Hanoi, passing through Son La, with its forbidding penitentiary, and Mai Châu, with its gorgeous scenery.

Above: Son La Prison

Above: Mai Châu

The little-travelled provinces of Ha Giang and Cao Bang also deserve attention, especially the stunning scenery and ethnic minorities in the Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark, which occupies over 2,800 square kilometres of Ha Giang province.

Above: Turtle Hill, Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark

Cao Bang’s attractions include the pretty Ban Gioc Falls and Hang Pac Bo, where Ho Chi Minh plotted his country’s liberation.

Above: Ban Gioc – Detian Falls

Above: Ho Chi Minh (1890 – 1969)

The northeast region also features Ba Bê National Park, where Vietnam’s largest natural lake nestles amid forested limestone crags and impenetrable jungle.

Above: Morning mist over Ba Bê Lake

Not surprisingly, infrastructure throughout the northern mountains is poor.

Facilities tend to be thin on the ground.

Some roads are in terrible condition.

Nevertheless, this area is becoming increasingly popular with tourists as Hanoi’s tour agents organize new tours and independent travellers venture into uncharted terrain by jeep or motorbike.

New homestays are also opening all the time, especially in Ha Giang province.

As I begin the tale of Heidi Ho‘s visit to Sapa, I find myself thinking of the 2008 drama film Gran Torino.

Cantankerous and racially intolerant Korean War veteran and retired Ford factory worker Walt Kowalski has recently been widowed after 50 years of marriage.

His dilapidating neighborhood in Highland Park in Metro Detroit, formerly populated by working class white families, is now dominated by poor Asian immigrants.

Gang violence is commonplace.

Above: Highland Park, Detroit, Michigan

(Racism in America remains and is resistant to change.)

Above: White tenants seeking to prevent blacks from moving into the housing project erected this sign. Detroit, 1942.

Adding to the isolation he feels is the emotional detachment of his family.

He rejects a suggestion from one of his sons to move to a retirement community and lives alone with his elderly dog, Daisy.

Above: Kowalski and Daisy

A chronic smoker and tobacco chewer, Walt suffers from coughing fits, occasionally coughing up blood, but conceals this from his family.

Above: Walt Kowalski (Clint Eastwood)

His late wife’s Catholic priest, Father Janovich, tries to comfort him, but Walt disdains the young, inexperienced man.

Above: Father Janovich (Christopher Carley) and Kowalski

(Religion offers comfort only to those seeking it.)

The Hmong Vang Lor family reside next door to Walt.

Initially, he avoids interactions with his neighbors, particularly after he catches Thao attempting to steal his Ford Gran Torino as a coerced initiation into a Hmong gang run by Thao’s cousin, “Spider“.

The gang is infuriated by Thao’s failure and they attack him, but Walt confronts them with an M1 Garand rifle and chases them off, earning the respect of the Hmong community.

Above: Spider (Doua Moua)

As penance, Thao’s mother makes him work for Walt, who has him do odd jobs around the neighborhood, and the two form a grudging mutual respect.

Above: Kowalski and Thao Lar (Bee Vang)

Walt mentors Thao, helping him obtain a construction job and gives him conversation and dating advice.

Walt rescues Thao’s sister Sue from the unwanted advances of three African American men and bonds with Sue after she introduces him to Hmong culture.

Above: Kowalski intervenes

Walt visits the doctor, receives a gloomy prognosis, and does not reveal the illness to his family after being rebuffed by his son, whom he called immediately after his diagnosis.

Spider‘s gang continues to pressure Thao, assaulting him on his way home from work.

After he sees Thao’s injuries, Walt visits the gang’s house, where he attacks a gang member as a warning.

Above: Thao and Spider’s gang

In retaliation, the gang performs a drive-by shooting on the Vang Lor home, injuring Thao, and kidnapping and raping Sue.

There are no witnesses and the members of the community, including the victims, refuse to talk about the crimes; preventing the police from doing anything about Spider’s gang.

Above: Sue Lor (Ahney Her)

The following day, an enraged Thao seeks Walt’s help to exact revenge, who tells him to return later in the afternoon.

In the meantime, Walt makes personal preparations:

He mows his lawn, buys a suit, gets a haircut, and makes a confession to Father Janovich.

When Thao returns, Walt takes him to the basement and gives him his Silver Star.

Walt then locks Thao in his basement and tells him that he has been haunted by the memory of killing an enemy soldier who was trying to surrender and wants to spare Thao from becoming a killer.

Above: Kowalski and Thao

(There is no honour in war, no glory in death.)

Above: Images of the Korean War

That night, Walt arrives at the residence of the gang members, where they draw their firearms on him.

He speaks loudly, berating them and enumerating their crimes and thus drawing the attention of the neighbors.

Putting a cigarette in his mouth, he asks for a light.

He then puts his hand in his jacket and provocatively pulls it out as if he were holding a gun, inciting the gang members to shoot and kill him.

As he falls to the ground, his hand opens to reveal his Zippo lighter with First Cavalry insignia:

He was unarmed.

Above: The fallen Kowalski

Sue, following Walt’s directions earlier, frees Thao, and they drive to the scene in Walt’s Gran Torino.

A Chinese police officer tells them that the gang members have been arrested for murder and the surrounding neighbors have all come forward as witnesses.

Above: Spider’s gang arrested

(I have watched this movie a few times and I confess I am always disturbed by how Walt dies.

I reject the notion of Walt as white man saving another race from themselves, but I do see his death as a sort of noble sacrifice to save other human beings (with race not a factor but rather compassion).

His murder removed the gang from the street and protected his Hmong neighbours.)

Father Janovich conducts Walt’s funeral which is attended by his family and many of the Hmong community, whose inclusion puzzles his family.

Afterward his last will and testament is read, where to the surprise of his family, Walt’s house goes to the church and his cherished Gran Torino goes to Thao, with the condition that Thao does not modify it.

Thao drives the car along Lakeshore Drive with Daisy.

Above: Thao

Gran Torino is a disturbing movie, a thinker’s movie:

Though a minor entry in Eastwood’s body of work, Gran Torino is nevertheless a humorous, touching, and intriguing old school parable.”

(Rotten Tomatoes)

A sleek, muscle car of a movie made in the USA, in that industrial graveyard called Detroit.

(New York Times)

(I do wonder how the movie might have been different had the movie been shot in Minneapolis as the screenwriter had intended.)

Above: Minneapolis, Minnesota

Dirty Harry is back, in a way, in Gran Torino, not as a character, but as a ghostly presence.

He hovers in the film, in its themes and high-caliber imagery, and of course, most obviously, in Mr. Eastwood’s face.

It is a monumental face now, so puckered and pleated that it no longer looks merely weathered, as it has for decades, but seems closer to petrified wood.

(Manohla Dargis)

(I remain unconvinced that the tough guy image Eastwood portrays is necessarily a role model to be emulated, but that being said his characters are branded deep into Western consciousness.)

Above: Clint Eastwood

It is a film that is impossible to imagine without the actor in the title role.

The notion of a 78-year-old action hero may sound like a contradiction in terms, but Eastwood brings it off, even if his toughness is as much verbal as physical.

Even at 78, Eastwood can make ‘Get off my lawn’ sound as menacing as ‘Make my day’, and when he says ‘I blow a hole in your face and sleep like a baby’, he sounds as if he means it.

(Los Angeles Times)

(Threatening violence has become equated with American values.

After all, the US was founded in war.)

Above: Flag of the United States of America

About the belated flowering of a man’s better nature.

And it’s about Americans of different races growing more open to one another in the new century.

(Roger Ebert)

Above: Roger Ebert (1942 – 2013)

(I like Ebert’s interpretation.)

Louisa Schein and Va-Megn Thoj, authors of Gran Torino’s Boys and Men with Guns: Hmong Perspective, said that the mainstream critical response was “centered on Eastwood‘s character and viewed the film mainly as a vision of multicultural inclusion and understanding.

A meditation on tolerance wrapped in the disguise of a movie with a gun-toting Clint Eastwood and a cool car.”

(Nicole Sperling, Entertainment Weekly)

Clint Eastwood’s decision to cast Hmong actors, including amateur actors, received a positive reception in Hmong communities.

Tou Ger Xiong, a Hmong storyteller and performance artist from the Minneapolis – St. Paul area who had auditioned for a role in the film, said that he had respect for the film because the producers actually cast Hmong instead of asking other Asian-Americans to mimic Hmong.

 Xiong also argued:

First things first, let’s get our foot in the door.

Complain later.”

Above: Tou Ger Xiong

Dyane Hang Garvey, who served as a cultural consultant for the film production, said that the film was not intended to be a documentary on the Hmong people and that it positively highlights, as paraphrased by Laura Yuen of Minnesota Public Radio, “the close-knit nature of the Hmong community in Detroit“.

Above: Dyane Hang Garvey

Doua Moua, a Hmong actor in the film, said that he had no regrets in playing a gang member, because, in the words of Laura Yuen of Minnesota Public Radio, “gangs consumed his brother’s life while they were growing up in Saint Paul“.

Moua added that many first generation Hmong are affected by gangs and drift into gangs due to a lack of father figures.

Above: Doua Moua

Louisa Schein, a Rutgers University anthropologist who is an expert on the Hmong culture, approved the concept of Hmong achieving visibility in the popular culture of the United States, but believed that the film may be promoting out of date stereotypes of the Hmong.

Schein said that her Hmong friends were “touched” by the film’s portrayal of Hmong culture redeeming and reaching out to Walt Kowalski.

Bee Vang, one of the Hmong actors, said that he was satisfied with the outcome of the film.

Above: Bee Vang

Schein further added that the film seemed to give little prominence to the history of the Hmong, and that only two male Hmong, Thao and a gang member, were given depth in the story.

Schein said:

I feel a lot of the plot about the Eastwood character is driven by the fact that he is a veteran.

Yet there is no possibility for representing the fact that the Hmong were veterans too.

Above: Louisa Schein

An individual established a blog, eastwoodmovie-hmong.com, documenting what the author believed to be cultural inaccuracies of the film’s depiction of the Hmong.

David Brauer of the Minneapolis Post said that some Hmong liked Gran Torino and that many believed that the film was offensive.

Actor Bee Vang said:

Hmong around the country were furious about its negative stereotypes and cultural distortions” and that they confronted him when he spoke at events.

Vang added that he engaged in “explaining my obligation as an actor while also recognizing that, as a Hmong-American, I didn’t feel that I could own the lines I was uttering.

Brauer said that in an opinion editorial released in 2011, Vang “isn’t kind to the Clint Eastwood film“.

Above: David Brauer

Krissy Reyes-Ortiz of The Bottom Line of the University of California (Santa Barbara) said, based on Vang’s testimony in a 2011 program, that:

Though many of the people who have seen the film may have gotten a sense of satisfaction and joy from seeing that Walt overcame his racism, the people who acted as the Hmong members in the movie did not” and that:

They were offended by the traces of racism that were included in the movie and that they experienced themselves on set”.

Some Hmong on Internet message boards had posted criticisms of the film.

Philip W. Chung of Asian Week said that Eastwood, portraying a white man, was the “main weapon” of the film even though screenwriter Nick Schenk “does his best to portray Hmong culture and the main Hmong characters with both depth and cultural sensitivity”.

Chung argued that “Gran Torino might have been another “‘white man saves the day’ story“, but that:

What Eastwood has really created is not a story about the white man saving the minority (though it can be read on that level and I’m sure some will) but a critical examination of an iconic brand of white macho maleness that he played a significant part in creating.

Vang has stated that he was uncomfortable with the reaction of white audiences to the film, finding their laughter at the playing off of racial slurs as humor “unnerving” and “one more excuse for ignoring white supremacy and racism.”

Bee Vang, as paraphrased by Jeff Baenen of the Associated Press, said that the film’s portrayal of the Hmong is “generally accurate.”

Regarding the result, Vang said:

This film is not a documentary.

We can’t expect 101% correctness.

During the filming, Hmong cast members addressed what they believed to be cultural inaccuracies that were being introduced.

Above: Logo of the Associated Press

Cedric Lee, a half-Hmong who worked as a production assistant and a cultural consultant, said that:

Some things were overexaggerated for dramatic purposes.

Whether it was our job or not, I still felt some responsibility to speak our mind and say something, but at the same time, the script was what it was.

We didn’t make the final decision.

Above: Cedric Lee

Vang said while many Hmong had objected to some elements, the producers selected the viewpoints of the cultural consultants which “had the most amenable take on the matter and would lend credence to whatever Hollywood stereotypes the film wanted to convey.”

Vang further said that:

This was a White production, that our presence as actors did not amount to control of our images.

Louisa Schein and Va-Megn Thoj, authors of Gran Torino’s Boys and Men with Guns: Hmong Perspectives“, said:

Perhaps the most commonly voiced Hmong objections to the film concern its myriad cultural inaccuracies, exaggerations and distortion.

Schein also said that:

The Hmong actors struggle, too, with their culture being made into spectacle.”

Even though a real Hmong shaman acts as a Hmong shaman in the film, Schein said that:

His expertise was overridden by the screenplay and the filming, which distorted the ceremonial scenes by making them inaccurately exotic.”

Vang said that the tea ceremonies depicted in the film were not correctly performed.

Even though, in the film, Hmong characters feel offense when Walt touches a girl on the head, Schein said that in real life in Hmong culture it is okay to touch a person on the head.

In other segments of the film, the Hmong shaman touches a baby’s head without any negative criticism.

Schein adds that Spider touches Thao Vang Lor‘s head “without consequence“.

Above: A Hmong shaman

Christine Wilson Owens, author of Hmong Cultural Profile, said:

Most traditional Hmong elders, especially men, do not want strangers to touch their heads, or those of their children, due to their religious beliefs and personal values.”

Above: Christine Wilson Owens

Thao and Sue Lor wear Hmong clothing to Walt Kowalski’s funeral.

Hmong do not ordinarily wear traditional Hmong clothing to funerals.

Grandma Lor spits a betel nut she had been chewing to show contempt for Walt Kowalski, even though the Hmong do not chew betel nuts.

Above: Betel nuts

The Hmong shaman reads Walt’s personal character, when in real life he would communicate with the spirit world.

In the film the shaman himself does a sacrifice of a chicken in a manner that Schein and Thoj say is “in dramatic ceremonial fashion,” when in real life an assistant would do this “perfunctorily.”

The authors said that the hu plis ceremony done in honor of the baby has an incorrect spatial layout, that the clothing and grooming of the Hmong gangs is not correct, and “the obsequious making of offerings on doorstep” are not accurate.

Above: Hmong shaman

While Thao himself cleans dishes, Schein and Thoj add that he would not do this alone because he is in a house with other female family members.

Schein and Thoj also add that there is “inconsistent use of the two Hmong dialects within one family.

Hmong people have their own terms for their subcultural divisions. 

Hmong Der (Hmoob Dawb) and Hmong Leng (Hmoob Leeg) are the terms for two of the largest groups in the US and Southeast Asia.

Above: Hmong folk costume, Sa Pa, Vietnam

These subgroups are also known as the White Hmong, and Blue or Green Hmong, respectively.

These names originate from the colour and designs of women’s dresses in each respective group, with the White Hmong distinguished by the white dresses women wear on special occasions, and the Blue/Green Hmong by the blue batiked dresses that the women wear.

The name and pronunciation “Hmong” is exclusively used by the White Hmong to refer to themselves, and many dictionaries use only the White Hmong dialect.

Above: White Hmong attire

Above: Blue Hmong attire

In the Romanized Popular Alphabet, developed in the 1950s in Laos, these terms are written Hmoob Dawb (White Hmong) and Hmoob Leeg (Green Hmong).

The final consonants indicate with which of the eight lexical tones the word is pronounced.

White Hmong and Green Hmong speak mutually intelligible dialects of the Hmong language, with some differences in pronunciation and vocabulary.

One of the most characteristic differences is the use of the voiceless /m/ in White Hmong, indicated by a preceding “H” in the Romanized Popular Alphabet.

Voiceless nasals are not found in the Green Hmong dialect.

Hmong groups are often named after the dominant colors or patterns of their traditional clothing, style of head dress, or the provinces from which they come.

The authors also argue that members of a Hmong clan would not show aggression towards a member of a fellow clan and that they would not rape a member of their own clan, like the gang in the film rapes Sue. 

Sharon Her, a Hmong writer from New York, argued that the film had “confusion of Asian customs” and that “Hmong people do not use favors as a method of atonement nor do they endlessly shower individuals with gifts out of gratitude.”

Screenwriter Nick Schenk said that he became friends with many Hmong coworkers while employed at a VHS factory in Bloomington, Minnesota.

Above: Bloomington, Minnesota

In regards to Schenk’s stories of his interactions with the Hmong people, Laura Yuen of Minnesota Public Radio said:

That sense of humor and curiosity permeate the script, even though the Gran Torino trailers make the movie look like, by all measures, a drama.”

In the early 1990s, Schenk learned how the Hmong had sided with the South Vietnamese forces and its US allies during the Vietnam War, only to wind up in refugee camps, at the mercy of North Vietnamese Communist forces, when US troops pulled out and the government forces were defeated.

Above: Nick Schenk

(Sounds familiar….)

Years later, he was deciding how to develop a story involving a widowed Korean War veteran trying to handle the changes in his neighborhood when he decided to place a Hmong family next door and create a culture clash.

Schenk and Dave Johannson, Schenk’s brother’s roommate, created an outline for the story.

Above: Mall of America, Bloomington, Minnesota

According to Schenk, each night he used a pen and paper to write the script while in Grumpy’s, a bar in northeastern Minneapolis, while not working at his day jobs.

He recalled writing 25 pages within a single night in the bar.

He recalled asking the bartender, who was his friend, questions about the story’s progress.

Above: Grumpy’s, Minneapolis, Minnesota

Some industry insiders told Schenk that a film starring an elderly main character could not be produced, as the story could not be sold, especially with an elderly main character who used language suggesting that he held racist views.

Through a friend, Schenk sent the screenplay to Warner Bros. producer Bill Gerber. 

Eastwood was able to direct and star on the project as filming for Invictus was delayed to early 2009, leaving sufficient time for filming Gran Torino during the previous summer.

Eastwood said that he had a “fun and challenging role, and it is an oddball story.”

Eastwood wanted Hmong as cast members, so casting director Ellen Chenoweth enlisted Hmong organizations and set up calls in Detroit, Fresno and Saint Paul.

Fresno and Saint Paul have the two largest Hmong communities in the United States, while Detroit also has an appreciable population of Hmong.

Chenoweth recruited Bee Vang in St. Paul and Ahney Her in Detroit.

The screenplay was written entirely in English.

Therefore, the actors of Gran Torino improvised the Hmong used in the film.

Above: Bee Vang and Ahney Her

Louisa Schein, author of Hmong Actors Making History Part 2: Meet the Gran Torino Family, said before the end of production that:

Some of the lines actors ad-libbed in Hmong on camera will be tricky to translate back for subtitles.

Screenwriter Nick Schenk had input from Hmong people when writing the script.

Dyane Hang Garvey served as a cultural consultant, giving advice on names, traditions, and translations.

Vang argued that the use of the Hmong people did not seem relevant to the overall plot.

He said “there is no real reason for us to be Hmong in the script” and that even though Walt Kowalski had fought in Korea, he had still confused the Hmong with Koreans and other Asian ethnic groups.

In a 2011 program Vang said that Hmong actors were treated unfairly on the set, and that Eastwood did not give tips on how to build the characters.

Vang also said that other White cast members made Hmong actors feel excluded.

Vang said that some important lines that the Hmong characters said in the Hmong language were not subtitled, so audiences developed a skewed perception of the Hmong people.

Roxane Battle of Minn Post said;

Rutgers University professor Louisa Shein, an expert on Hmong studies, moderated the discussion and challenged the audience to view the young cast members for what they were: actors in a film, and not so much representatives of an entire culture.”

Above: Roxane Battle

The Hmong people are an ethnic group which mainly lives in southern China (Guizhou, Yunnan, Sichuan, Chongqing and Guangxi), Vietnam, Laos, Thailand and Myanmar.

They have been members of the Unrepresented Nations and Peoples Organization (UNPO) since 2007.

Above: Flag of the Unrepresented Nations of the World

Above: UNPO Members – Former members in dark grey

The Hmong remind me of the Kurds – distinct societies not defined by the nations wherein they find themselves.

Above: Flag of Kurdistan

Borders are created by governments backed by militaries.

National identity is embraced only by those who feel that their identity has value to the nation.

The problem with nationalism is its insistence that certain cultural manifestations are acceptable and those that differ are unpatriotic.

Nationalism in its extreme is a melting pot.

But borders defy the reality that nations are cultural mosaics, with each culture an integral and beautiful part of the place wherein it is found.

During the First Indochina War (1948 – 1954) and the Second Indochina War / Vietnam War (1955 – 1975), France and the US intervened in the Laotian Civil War (1959 – 1975) by recruiting thousands of Hmong people to fight against forces from North and South Vietnam which were stationed in Laos in accordance with their mission to support the Communist Pathet Lao (Lao People’s Liberation Army) insurgents.

Above: Flag of Laos

The Central Intelligence Agency (CIA) operation is known as the Secret War.

During the colonization of Tonkin (North Vietnam) between 1883 and 1954, a number of Hmong decided to join the Vietnamese Nationalists and Communists, while many Christianized Hmong sided with the French.

After the Viet Minh victory, numerous pro-French Hmong had to fall back to Laos and South Vietnam.

Above: Map of Tonkin, 1873

In the early 1960s, partially as a result of the North Vietnamese invasion of Laos, the CIA’s Special Activities Division began to recruit, train and lead the indigenous Hmong people in Laos to fight against North Vietnamese Army divisions invading Laos during the Vietnam War.

This “Secret Army” was organized into various mobile regiments and divisions, including various Special Guerrilla Units, all of whom were led by General Vang Pao.

Above: Vang Pao (1929 – 2011)

An estimated 60% of Hmong men in Laos joined up.

While Hmong soldiers were known to assist the North Vietnamese in many situations, Hmong soldiers were also recognized for serving in combat against the NVA and the Pathet Lao, helping block Hanoi’s Ho Chi Minh Trail inside Laos and rescuing downed American pilots.

Though their role was generally kept secret in the early stages of the conflict, they made great sacrifices to help the US.

Thousands of economic and political refugees have resettled in Western countries in two separate waves.

The first wave resettled in the late 1970s, mostly in the US, after the North Vietnamese and Pathet Lao takeovers of the pro-US governments in South Vietnam and Laos respectively.

The Lao Veterans of America and Lao Veterans of America Institute, helped to assist in the resettlement of many Laotian and Hmong refugees and asylum seekers in the US, especially former Hmong veterans and their family members who served in the “US Secret Army” in Laos during the Vietnam War.

Many Hmong refugees resettled in the US after the Vietnam War.

Beginning in December 1975, the first Hmong refugees arrived in the US, mainly from refugee camps in Thailand.

However, only 3,466 were granted asylum at that time under the Indochina Migration and Refugee Assistance Act of 1975.

Above: Map of Indochina, 1886

In May 1976, another 11,000 were allowed to enter the United States, and by 1978 some 30,000 Hmong people had immigrated.

This first wave was made up predominantly of men directly associated with General Vang Pao’s secret army.

It was not until the passage of the Refugee Act of 1980 that families were able to enter the US, becoming the second wave of Hmong immigrants.

Hmong families scattered across all 50 states but most found their way to each other, building large communities in California, Minnesota and Wisconsin.

The Hmong groups in Vietnam and Laos, from the 18th century to the present day, are known as Black Hmong (Hmoob Dub), Striped Hmong (Hmoob Txaij), White Hmong (Hmoob Dawb), Hmong Leng (Hmoob Leeg) and Green Hmong (Hmoob Ntsuab).

Above: Black Hmong attire

Above: Striped Hmong attire

Above: Hmong Leeg attire

Above: Hmong Ntsuab attire

Roughly 95% of the Hmong live in Asia.

Linguistic data show that the Hmong of the Peninsula stem from the Miao of southern China as one among a set of ethnic groups belonging to the Hmong – Lien language family.

Linguistically and culturally speaking, the Hmong and the other sub-groups of the Miao have little in common.

Vietnam, where their presence is attested from the late 18th century onwards and characterized with both assimilation, cooperation and hostility, is likely to be the first Indochinese country into which the Hmong migrated. 

At the 2019 national census, there were 1,393,547 Hmong living in Vietnam, the vast majority of them in the north of the country.

The traditional trade in coffin wood with China and the cultivation of the opium poppy – both prohibited only in 1993 in Vietnam – long guaranteed a regular cash income.

Today, converting to cash cropping is the main economic activity.

Above: Flag of Vietnam

As in China and Laos, there is a certain degree of participation of Hmong in the local and regional administration. 

In the late 1990s, several thousands of Hmong started moving to the Central Highlands and some crossed the border into Cambodia, constituting the first attested presence of Hmong settlers in that country.

In 2015, the Hmong in Laos numbered 595,028.

Hmong settlement there is nearly as ancient as in Vietnam.

After the 1975 Communist victory, thousands of Hmong from Laos had to seek refuge abroad.

Approximately 30% of the Hmong left, an estimated 116,000 Hmong from Laos and Vietnam together seeking refuge in Thailand up to 1990.

In 2002 the Hmong in Thailand numbered 151,080.

Above: Flag of Thailand

Myanmar most likely includes a modest number of Hmong (perhaps around 2,500) but no reliable census has been conducted there recently.

Above: State seal of Myanmar (Burma)

As result of refugee movements in the wake of the Indochina Wars (1946–1975), in particular, in Laos, the largest Hmong community to settle outside Asia went to the US where approximately 100,000 individuals had already arrived by 1990.

Above: Coat of arms of the United States of America

By the same date, 10,000 Hmong had migrated to France, including 1,400 in French Guiana. 

Above: Flag of France

Above: Coat of arms of French Guyana

Canada admitted 900 individuals, while another 360 went to Australia, 260 to China and 250 to Argentina.

Above: Flag of Canada

Above: Flag of Australia

Above: National emblem of China

Above: Flag of Argentina

Over the following years and until the definitive closure of the last refugee camps in Thailand in 1998, additional numbers of Hmong have left Asia, but the definitive figures are still to be produced.

In the rest of the world, where about 5% of the world Hmong population now lives, the US is home to the largest Hmong population.

The 2008 Census counted 171,316 people solely of Hmong ancestry, and 221,948 persons of at least partial Hmong ancestry.

Other countries with significant populations include:

  • France: 15,000
  • Australia: 2,000
  • French Guiana: 1,500
  • Canada: 835
  • Argentina: 600

The Hmong population within the US is centered in the Upper Midwest (Wisconsin, Minnesota) and California.

Above: The USA (in green)

Hmong people in Vietnam today are perceived very differently between various political organizations and changed throughout times.

The Hmong people of Vietnam are a small minority and because of this their loyalty toward the Vietnamese state has also been under question.

Nonetheless, most Hmong people in Vietnam are fiercely loyal to the Vietnamese state, regardless of the current ideologies of the government, with only those minorities supportive of Hmong resistance in Laos and Cambodia.

These are mostly Hmong Christians who have fallen under target and poverty strike by alienation of all three Indochinese governments, since there has been no Hmong armed separatism in the country.

The Hmong people in Vietnam also receive cultural and political promotion from the government alike.

This unique feature distanced Hmong Vietnamese from Hmong Laotian, as their Laotian cousins are strongly anti-Vietnamese due to the Secret War and Communism.

Above: Flower Hmong woman, Vietnam

Some Laos- and Vietnam-based Hmong Animists and Christians (including Protestant and Catholic believers) have been subjected to military attacks, police arrest, imprisonment, forced disappearances, extrajudicial killings and torture on anti-religious grounds.

One example is the deportation of Zoua Yang and her 27 children from Thailand on 19 December 2005, after the group was arrested attending a Christian church in Ban Kho Noi, Phetchabun Province, Thailand.

Upon return to Laos, Ms. Yang and her children were detained, after which the whereabouts of much of the family are still unknown.

Above: Khao Kho National Park at sundown, Phetchabun Province, Thailand

Another example, which occurred on 17 March 2013, involved a Hmong Christian pastor, Vam Ngaii Vai (Va Ngai Vang), who was beaten to death by Vietnamese police and security forces.

An ethnic Hmong from Bac Kan Province in Vietnam’s Northwest Mountainous Region, Ngai became a Christian in 1999 and migrated south to Vietnam’s Central Highlands, when thousands of Hmong Christians suffering heavy persecution were making this same journey.

He and his extended family settled in Dak Nong Province.

Ngai was an elder and leader of worship at the Bui Tre Church, which belongs to the legally recognized Evangelical Church of Vietnam (South).

More than 600 people regularly attend services, including 230 children.

Ngai helped build the attractive wooden building of the Bui Tre Church, which was erected against great odds and government harassment in 2006.

We know that Mr. Ngai was loved and respected by thousands of Christians and the wider community as an upright and generous man,” said one top Hmong leader from the area.

He was one who trained and employed many in his successful businesses and farming, and one who helped the poor without keeping accounts.

He was an enthusiastic, effective leader in his church. What a loss for us!

Ngai’s brother, Hoang van Qua, pastor of the Bui Tre church, said Ngai had special regard for the poor.

He helped them with building, with transporting rice, gave money to the poor and those who encountered difficult times, helped school children who lacked schoolbooks or school clothes,” Qua said.

Whatever he had in his pocket, he would readily give to the poor, never bothering to keep accounts.”

Ngai, a 38-year-old father of four who was a lay church leader, had angered some government officials by finding ways for the Bui Tre Church to keeping functioning, as the officials had forbidden it to meet from 2000 to 2003.

He refused to pay expected bribes and otherwise “strongly resisted their abuse of power”, his brother Hoang Van Pa states in a report to government officials and church leaders.

Ngai and Pa were arrested on 15 March 2013 after local police had tried to capture them the previous day as the two brothers cleared brush from newly purchased fields in Dak Ha Commune of Dak Glong District.

While official charges against them were not made, some reports said they were accused of “destroying the forest” on their own land – which according to Pa has no trees, only some tree stumps.

At about 3 p.m. on 17 March, Pa heard the sound of voices shouting, furniture scraping and violent beating coming from his brother’s cell, he states in his report.

At 4:30 p.m., a police officer looked into the cell and said, “That guy’s probably dead already.”, Pa states.

More police came quickly and carried Ngai out of his cell to a waiting taxi.

Pa states that his brother was “completely limp as if he was dead, gone, purple marks on his throat”.

Above: Funeral of Vam Nagaii Vai – Officials claim he committed suicide while in police custody.

Vietnamese officials have tried to suppress information contained in Pa’s report, which states that, on 18 March 2013, officers at the Gia Nghia police station gave a disturbing explanation to family members and friends, suggesting that he had purposely electrocuted himself by sticking his hand in an electrical socket.

Family members strongly reject the possibility of suicide, pointing out that more than 300 witnesses who viewed Ngai’s body concurred with Pa’s report that it had “many bruises and contusions on his throat, back, and head, and deep cuts on his body and his skull smashed.” 

They were also incensed that an autopsy had been performed on Ngai’s body without their knowledge and consent.

Family members further assert that Ngai, a building contractor, merchant and farmer whose four children range in age from 7 to 15, had absolutely no reason to commit suicide.

Before his incarceration, Ngai was an exceptionally strong and healthy man.

In February 2014, in Hanoi, Vietnamese government officials refused to allow medical treatment for a Hmong Christian leader, Duong Van Minh, who was suffering from a serious kidney illness.

Above: Duong Van Minh

In 2011, Vietnam People’s Army troops were used to crush a peaceful demonstration by Hmong Catholic, Protestant and Evangelical Christian believers who gathered in Dien Bien Province and the Dien Bien Phu area of northwestern Vietnam, according to Philip Smith of the Center for Public Policy Analysis, independent journalists and others.

Above: Emblem of the Vietnamese People’s Army

The US Commission on International Religious Freedom has documented official and ongoing religious persecution, religious freedom violations against the Laotian and Hmong people in both Laos and Vietnam by the governments.

In April 2011, the Center for Public Policy Analysis also researched and documented cases of Hmong Christians being attacked and summarily executed, including four Lao Hmong Christians.

Sa Pa, Vietnam, Saturday 23 March 2019

It is an overcast morning as Heidi descends the bus from Hanoi on the main street of Sa Pa.

Above: Sapa Mountains

Sa Pa is a district of Lào Cai Province in northwest Vietnam.

As of 2018, the town had a population of 61,498.

The town covers an area of 677 km2.

The district capital is Sa Pa, one of the main market towns in the area, where several ethnic minority groups, such as the Hmong, Dao (Yao), Giáy, Xa Pho and Tay, live.

Above: Terraced fields, Sapa

Sa Pa was a frontier township and capital of the former Sa Pa District in Lào Cai Province in northwest Vietnam.

It was first inhabited by people about whom nothing is known.

They left behind in the valley hundreds of petroglyphs, mostly composed of lines, which experts think date from the 15th century and represent local cadastres (recording of property lines).

Then came the Highland minorities of the Hmong and Yao.

The township is one of the main market ones in the area, where several ethnic minority groups live.

The Kinh (lowland Vietnamese) never originally colonised this highest of Vietnam’s valleys, which lies in the shadow of Phan-Xi-Pang (Mount Fansipan, 3,143 m), the highest peak in the country.

Sa Pa is also home to more than 200 pieces of boulders with ancient engravings.

The “Area of Old Carved Stone in Sapa” has been in the UNESCO tentative list since 1997.

Above: Ancient engraved rock, Sapa

It was only when the French debarked in highland Tonkin in the late 1880s that Sa Pa, the name of the Hmong hamlet, began to appear on the national map.

In the following decade, the future site of Sa Pa township started to see military parties, as well as missionaries from the Société des Missions Étrangères (MEP), visit.

The French military marched from the Red River Delta into the northern mountainous regions as part of Tonkin’s ‘pacification’.

In 1896 the border between China and Tonkin was formally agreed upon and the Sa Pa area, just to the south of this frontier, was placed under French authority.

From then on the entire Lào Cai region, including Sa Pa (which the French named Chapa), came under direct colonial military administration so as to curtail banditry and political resistance on the sensitive northern frontier.

Above: French colonial empire (1542 – 1980) – Light blue: First Empire / Dark blue: Second Empire

The first permanent French civilian resident arrived in Sa Pa in 1909.

With its attractive continental climate, health authorities believed the site had potential.

By 1912 a military sanatorium for ailing officers had been erected along with a fully fledged military garrison.

From the 1920s onwards, several wealthy professionals with enough financial capital also had a number of private villas built in the vicinity.

Above: Villa of the Non-Commissioned Officers (today: the Sapa Museum)

At the end of the Second World War a long period of hostilities began in Tonkin that was to last until 1954.

In the process, nearly all of the 200 or so colonial buildings in or around Sa Pa were destroyed, either by Việt Minh sympathisers in the late 1940s, or, in the early 1950s by French air raids.

The vast majority of the Viet population fled for their lives.

The former township entered a prolonged sleep.

Above: Sa Pa

In the early 1960s, thanks to the New Economic Zones migration scheme set up by the new Socialist regime, new inhabitants from the lowlands started to migrate to the region.

The short 1979 occupation of the northern border region by Chinese troops had little impact on Sa Pa town, but did force the Kinh (lowland Vietnamese) population out for a month.

In 1993 the last obstacle to Sa Pa’s full rebirth as a prominent holiday destination was lifted as the decision was made to open the door fully to international tourism.

Sa Pa was back on the tourist trail again, this time for a newly emerging local elite tourist crowd, as well as international tourists.

Above: Sa Pa

Sa Pa is now in full economic boom, mainly from the thousands of tourists who come every year to walk the hundreds of miles of trekking trails between and around the villages of Dao villages of Ta Van and Ta Phin.

In 2006, the Chairman of the People’s Committee of Sa Pa Province was elected to the Communist Party Central Committee as the youngest ever member (born in 1973).

Above: Communist Party propaganda, Sa Pa

The day’s news of the world was, as per usual, not encouraging.

But let us not speak too much of this, for Heidi travels to see the world as it is, which is not necessarily as it is manifested by the news.

Headlines of the Day

The Syrian Democratic Forces announce the capture of the last territory held by ISIL in Syria.

Above: Syrian forces in Baghouz, Syria

At least 160 Fulani herdsmen are killed in an attack on the villages of Ogossagou and Welingara by Dogon militia in Mali.

Above: Flag of Mali

In Mogadishu, Somalia, at least five militants set off a car bomb and raid a government building, killing at least five people. 

Al-Shabaab claim responsibility for the attack.

Above: Logo of Al-Shabab

The Wall Street Journal reports that former Enron CEO Jeffrey Skilling, released from prison in February after serving 12 years for fraud and insider trading following Enron’s 2001 collapse, is planning a return to the energy business, helming a “digital platform connecting investors to oil and gas projects“.

Above: Jeffrey Skilling

Rescuers scramble to rescue about 1,300 passengers and crew from the cruise ship Viking Sky adrift off the coast of Norway.

Above: The Viking Sky cruise ship is seen in rough seas Saturday in the Hustadvika area off western Norway.

Italy signs $2.8 billion in deals with the Belt and Road Initiative with China.

Above: The Belt and Road Initiative is a a global infrastructure development strategy adopted by the Chinese government in 2013 to invest in nearly 70 countries and international organizations, which consists of proposed overland routes for road and rail transportation through landlocked Central Asia along famed historical trade routes, and includes ports, skyscrapers, railroads, roads, bridges, airports, dams, coal-fired power stations, and railroad tunnels.

Approximately one million Britons assemble for the People’s Vote March in London, advocating for an additional referendum on Brexit.

Above: Protesters marched past some of London’s most famous landmarks.

Heidi is not alone.

She met José (not his real name) in Hanoi.

They had joined a tour of the city – a three-hour walking tour beneath a blazing sun and narrated by a guide inappropriate to the task – and became united by a shared ennui.

Above: Hanoi, Vietnam

There is something about Sapa that reminds Heidi of the London she once visited.

Above: Foggy night, London

José cannot relate, having come to Vietnam directly from Argentina and for whom Vietnam is not part of a multinational marathon such as Heidi’s.

Above: Sol de Mayo – a national symbol of Argentina

Heidi and José are not lovers, for they share a common love interest:

Men.

But despite differing sexual orientations, they have bonded.

Above: LGBT community flag

The night is cold abroad the bus.

Cuddling for shared bodily warmth is done without the awkwardness of chemistry between their genders.

Perhaps friendship is possible between a gay man and a straight woman because there is not the complication of sexual desire clouding the circumstances?

I have female friends despite my hetero habits.

Perhaps the awareness of age curbs chemistry between old men and younger women?

I have been friends with Heidi for a few years now.

I am aware of our gender difference, but the age difference denies desire.

We do not see each other THAT way.

I respect her courage.

She respects my experience and ability to string words together.

Perhaps a man and a woman can be friends without sexuality complicating their interaction?

A penny for the thought.

The cold is alpine, arctic, harsh.

Heidi‘s experience is such as mine was in Manitoba – the attire was not appropriate to the climate.

Time to shop for thermal clothes.

Above: Winter night, Winnipeg

Heidi would over the next three days in the north of Vietnam have mixed feelings about travelling in the region.

Travelling by motorbike would be terribly frigid, but the infrastructure of the area does not lend itself well to anyone without their own transportation.

Sapa’s invigorating air is a real tonic after the humidity of the dusty plains of Hanoi, though cold nights make warm clothes (and when possible shared body warmth through cuddling) essential throughout the year.

The sun sets early behind Mount Fansipan.

Temperatures fall rapidly after dark, often dropping below freezing, so it is worth finding a hotel room with heating.

Above: Sunset, Sa Pa

However, Sapa’s best-known climatic feature is a thick fog straight out of Sherlock Holmes’ tale The Hound of the Baskervilles.

The fog sweeps up from the valley below and blots out the whole town, lending a spectral feel to the streets.

During her visit cold damp clouds descended.

What can be seen must be imagined.

Heidi is a woman.

Her imagination is vivid.

Above: Sunset, Sa Pa

The tourist capital of Vietnam’s mountainous north, Sa Pa, or Sapa, is perched dramatically at an elevation of around 1,600 metres on the western edge of a high plateau, facing the hazy blue peak of Mount Fan Si Pan, Vietnam’s highest mountain, across the Muong Hua Valley, and is surrounded by villages of ethnic minorities, particularly the Red Dao and Black Hmong.

Its refreshing climate and almost alpine landscape struck a nostalgic chord with European visitors, who dubbed these mountains the “Tonkinese Alps“.

The French travelled up from Lao Cai by sedan chair in the early 20th century.

By 1930 a flourishing hill station had developed, complete with tennis court, church and over 200 villas.

Nowadays only a handful of the old buildings remain, the rest lost to time and the 1979 Chinese invasion, as well as those involved in the current hotel development spree.

Above: Sa Pa

With new hotels constantly rising, Sa Pa’s days as an idyllic haven in the hills have been concreted over.

Although height restrictions are finally being enforced on new buildings, the damage has already been done and Sa Pa’s days as an idyllic haven in the hills have been concreted over.

However, what the modern town lacks in character is more than compensated for by its magnificent scenery, and it makes an ideal base for tours of the area’s varied collection of minority villages.

Above: Sa Pa

Sapa is oriented to make the most of the spectacular views emerging on clear days.

It overlooks a plunging valley, with mountains towering above on all sides.

Views are often subdued by thick mist rolling across the peaks, but even when it’s cloudy, local hill-tribe people fill the town with color.

Locally known as the “town of clouds”, Sapa is a charming treasure trove of Northwest Vietnam.

At a glimpse of an eye, it effortlessly mesmerizes travelers by the beauty of iconic cascading terraced rice fields, lush valleys and emerald mountains lying side by side.

Endowed by nature, it is no wonder that Sapa has become one of the most alluring destinations in the country.

Above: Sa Pa

The Hoàng Liên Son range of mountains dominates the district, which is at the eastern extremity of the Himalayas.

This range includes Vietnam’s highest mountain, Fan Si Pan, at a height of 3,143 m above sea level.

In addition, other mountains like Aurora & J (where the sun appears at sunrise) complete a very steep terrain.

The town of Sa Pa lies at an elevation of about 1,500 meters (4,921 feet).

The climate is moderate and rainy in summer (May – August), and foggy and cold with occasional snowfalls in winter.

Above: Sa Pa

Sa Pa is a mountain town – home to a great diversity of ethnic minority peoples.

The total population of 36,000 consists mostly of minority groups.

Besides the Kinh (Viet) people (15%) there are mainly five ethnic groups in Sa Pa:

  • Hmong (52%),
  • Dao (25%)
  • Tay (5%)
  • Giay (2%)
  • A small number of Xa Pho.

Above: Sa Pa

Approximately 7,000 people live in Sa Pa, the other 36,000 being scattered in small communes throughout the district.

It was only when the French arrived in Tonkin in the 19th century that Sapa was acknowledged and included on the national map.

The site where Sapa is located became a key location for the French military as well as missionaries.

For decades, this mountainous backwater was unknown to tourists, but in 1993 Sapa became accessible to many when it was formally promoted as a tourist destination.

Above: Sa Pa

What makes Sapa even more special is the cultural richness of local ethnic minorities, boasting through the numerous customs and beliefs.

Set amidst the idyllic rugged valleys are the tiny hill tribe villages, home to Hmong, Dzao, and Tay groups, who have been settling down here for hundreds of years while still being able to preserve their cultures and traditions.

Enjoying local life with colorful ethnic costumes, typical dances, and songs performed by people of ethnic groups would be a memorable experience lingering in your mind during and long after your trip.

Sa Pa itself is ethnically Vietnamese, but its shops and market serve the minority villages for miles around.

Every day seems bright and lively in Sa Pa when the women come to town dressed in their finery –

The most striking are the Red Dao, who wear scarlet headdresses festooned with woollen tassels and silver trinkets.

Above: Red Dao people

Black Hmong are the most numerous group – over a third of the district’s population – and the most commercially minded, peddling their embroidered indigo-blue waistcoats, bags, hats and heavy, silver jewellery at all hours.

In fact, young Hmong girls can often be seen walking hand in hand with Westerners they have befriended prior to making their sales pitch.

Above: Black Hmong, Sa Pa

By contrast, the Red Dao, another common group here, are generally shy about being photographed, despite their eye-catching dress.

Above: Red Dao, Sa Pa

Take a stroll up and down the steep streets of this tiny mountain town.

You may be hassled by tribal ladies to buy their wares, but it is fun to talk to them.

Like most rural areas in Vietnam, there are no shopping malls in Sapa.

Instead, shopping takes place at markets where locals buy (and sell) an assortment of goods.

Fresh ingredients, handicrafts and clothing are plentiful. 

Tourists can also purchase souvenirs.

There’s also lots of faux-tribal goods that have come straight from a factory in China.

If you want to buy something, bargain hard.

The tribal ladies selling the goods can drive a very hard bargain.

Above: Sa Pa market

Located next to the bus station, Sapa Market is open daily from 06:00 to 14:00.

The town is very small, so it is easy to find this local market. 

It was made famous mostly because of the ‘Love Market‘, wherein teenagers from the tribes would go to town to find a partner.

Unfortunately, it has become significantly commercial in recent years.

Turfed out of central Sapa and now in a purpose-built modern building near the bus station, Sapa Market is still interesting.

Hill-tribe people from surrounding villages come here most days to sell handicrafts.

Saturday is the busiest day.

Above: Sapa Market

What initially attracted visitors to Sa Pa was the weekend market, which is when it is at its busiest, though it is now a bustling place on weekdays too.

These days the market is housed in a concrete eyesore, a far cry from the original Saturday “love market” where the local ethnic minorities would come to court their sweethearts.

The souvenir stalls here offer an unappealing range of tacky mementoes.

Above: Sapa Market

Instead make a beeline for the fresh market and food stalls at the back of the building, where there is always a crowd of elaborately attired minority groups.

Above: Sapa Market

Before you might think about anything improper, Sa Pa’s Love Market has been an unique and valuable aspect in the culture of the Mong and Dao ethnic groups for a long time.

A long time ago, ethnic people usually came to the Market, which was held on Sunday mornings, for trading.

They would bring homemade handicrafts to sell and then would buy essential items for their daily life.

As the ethnic minorities lived in villages located in remote areas of Sapa, they had to travel long distances to get to the market.

Therefore, they always left the villages early on Saturday and arrived in the evening to get some rest.

Above: Sapa Love Market

However, young people did not want to rest, they wanted to get to know other people by taking part in activities such as singing and dancing.

All the performances were full of romantic actions and melodies expressing the wish for eternal love.

Above: Sapa Love Market

Every Saturday evening, the town bustles with the charm of the indigenous boys and the enchanting dances of the girls dressed in colourful costumes and silver ornaments.

The little bells on their outfits add to the festive atmosphere of the city.

There are many women wearing red scarves and colorful embroidered costumes with silver rings and small coins attached to their shirts’ lovely shoulders. 

They look for the guys dressed in traditional clothes of the same colours who hold in their hand small radios blaring cheerful songs.

The guys are wearing indigo clothes and gather around the girls.

They sing their confessions of love and give gifts so that they are remembered.

Then the girl will try to escape from the boy.

But the bold will try his best to keep the girl’s hand.

After a time the girl gives the boy a gift.

Perhaps a ring, a bracelet or a comb.

Next her friend will take her to the man she has chosen.

Then the couple will bring to each other that which they want.

Just to meet each other through a Love Market is love lightning.

Above: Sapa Love Market

Girls hid in the dark and sang songs with romantic melodies and boys would try to find them.

During the night, many couples became intimate and promised to see each other again on the following morning.

Some couples disappeared into the forest for three days.

Many of them became husbands and wives in the spring.

That is why poets call it “Sapa’s Love Market“.  

Above: Sapa Love Market

There is an interesting paradox in the name Love Market.

A market is for trading:

Buying and selling.

But no one there buys love or sells it.

So why do they call it a Love Market?

Because lovers take advantage of the market to see each other.

Therefore, in a nutshell, the Love Market is the place where people date and express their affection.

For the people who could not find their soulmates, they could look for another chance in the next markets.

Everyone left the market with good experiences and memories of the fun night.

The Love Market was not the place where you can sell or buy love.

This was the love haven where you had a chance to express your feelings and affection to a significant other.

Above: Sapa Love Market

Today, with a lot of tourists, the real Love Market does not exist any more.

Perhaps, real love does not exist any more?

However, you can still see the representation of the Love Market when you stay here on a Saturday night.

The Sapa Love Market is a cultural beauty and unique experience no visitor should miss out in Sapa.

People stand in groups singing and dancing their traditional dances until the night comes.

Visiting the Love Market today, you may still see some young locals singing in the dark, but it is not because they are looking for a partner:

They are looking for tourists who will be asked for a tip after they sing a song for them.

Above: Sapa Love Market

As Sapa is a popular tourist attraction, the Sapa Love Market gets more attention from both ethnic people and tourists.

Today, the market is held at the Tourist Information and Promotion Center.

There are many activities of the Hmong and Red Dao people organized on the campus.

Not only can you see the singing and dancing, but also other activities such as wife kidnapping, blowing leaves, etc.

The market is not just for marriage purposes.

It is also the place where people meet their old friends and make new ones.

No matter how old they are, how different they look, everyone is happy to chat with each other with their smiles on.

Visiting the place, visitors can experience the culture and feel the spirit of ethnic minority people.

Above: Sapa Love Market

The Bac Ha Market and Coc Ly Market are good alternatives for those who want to experience shopping the way locals do without being dampened by commercialisation.

If you want to visit these tribal markets, you should book a day tour from a travel agent in town. 

Every Sunday, the different hill tribes that meet in the morning to sell their wares make up the Bac Ha Market.

Unlike the Saturday market, this is more about local business than tourism.

The market is open until noon, but the best time to visit is between dawn and late morning.

If you miss the Bac Ha Market, you can wait until Tuesday for the Coc Ly Market, which is smaller and less varied.

Above: Bac Ha Market

Above: Coc Ly Market

There are some other love markets in other mountainous towns, such as the Khau Vai Love Market in Ha Giang, or the Moc Chau Love Market in Son La.

However, these markets are held once a year so it is difficult for tourists to get a chance to see them.

Above: Khau Vai Market

Above: Moc Chau Market

In addition to that, the Love Market in Sapa is said to be the oldest one and takes place more frequently -every Saturday evening.

Therefore, as long as you visit Sapa on the weekends, you will have the opportunity to see all the interesting activities at the market.

The love market in Sapa reflects the traditional culture of ethnic minorities in this mountainous town.

This is an event that shouldn’t be missed when visiting the region.

Above: Sapa Love Market

But the Love Market is more than a renowned place where young people came to find their partners for marriage.

Sapa Love Market is also a great base for people to retain their culture in activities, exchange goods and gather with friends.

Above: Sapa Love Market

Plenty of minority people still turn up to peddle ethnic-style bags and shirts to trekkers, though more authentic market fairs can be found on the other side of the Red River on Saturdays at Can Cau and on Sundays in Bac Ha.

Above: Can Cau Market

About 100 km away from Sapa, Bac Ha is the biggest ethnic market in the northwestern region of Vietnam.

Above: Bac Ha Market

Alluring thousands of ethnic people from the nearby hill tribes, Sapa is a great place for indigenous people to meet and boast their traditional and colorful ethnic costumes, giving travellers an ideal opportunity to discover the region’s rich cultural diversity.

Above: Sa Pa

In Sapa town, there is a modest cathedral.

Sapa’s small stone church was built by the French and is still a central landmark.

It opens for Mass on Sunday and on certain evenings for prayers.

Above: Sapa Cathedral

The Sapa Museum offers a showcase of the history and ethnology of the Sapa area, including the French colonial era.

Dusty exhibitions give an overview of the various ethnic groups around Sapa, with information on the region’s rich handicrafts, so it is worth a quick visit when you first arrive in town.

The Museum is located above a handicrafts shop behind the Tourist Information Centre.

Above: Sapa Museum

The small Museum features video presentations and wall displays about Sa Pa’s history and the lifestyles of the local hill tribes, but the exhibits are dimly lit and the captions unclear – you might not learn much here.

Other exhibits include a mock-up of a Hmong wedding ceremony and a rundown of the social architecture of ethnic minority groups.

Above: Sapa Museum

Due to its distant location in the northwest mountainous area with no airport nearby, Sapa is only accessible by road or rail.

Thanks to the new expressway Hanoi – Lao Cao, traveling to Sapa from the capital city of Hanoi only takes 5 hours by shuttle bus.

The ticket price varies from 220,000 VND – 450,0000 VND (about US$15).

As it is a non-stop ride coming straight into town, visitors can save a lot of time.

Above: Hanoi – Lao Cao Expressway

Previously, the journey by bus from Gia Lam bus station in Hanoi to the centre of Sa Pa took just as long as the train and bus combination (about 10 hours), but the completion of a new highway between Hanoi and Lao Cai has cut that time by about 4 hours – making the bus journey a more appealing alternative.

Above: Gia Lam Bus Station, Hanoi

Sa Pa’s bus station is by the lake in the northeast of town, though many buses, such as the shuttle buses to and from the railway station in Lao Cai, drop passengers off in front of the church.

Buses to Hanoi leave from the main square in front of the church in the morning and evening.

Above: Sapa Bus Station

Note that if you’re heading to Bac Ha, you’ll need to change buses in Lao Cai and consequently endure a rather slow journey, though there are tour buses that go directly from Sa Pa on Sundays only for the market.

Ask at your hotel about these.

Above: Lao Cai Bus Station

There’s also a daily sleeper bus directly to Bai Chay for Ha Long Bay.

Above: Bai Chay, Halong Bay, Vietnam

The great way to get to Sapa from Hanoi is to take the train to Lao Cai, then hop on an hour-long bus or a taxi to the town.

Above: Lao Cai Train Station

The journey takes around 8 hours, offering the picturesque views of the mountains alongside.

Above: Hanoi – Lao Cai train

Vietnam Railways operates two daily express trains from Hanoi to Lao Cai and vice versa, departing at 9:35 and 10:00 PM from Gia Lam Station, Hanoi.

The train only stops at major stations, so the trip is expected to be smooth and uninterrupted.

Above: Logo of Vietnam Railways

Above: Vietnam Railway Map

There’s no railway station in Sa Pa, yet most people still come here by train from Hanoi via the border town of Lao Cai, located on the east bank of the Red River, 38km from Sa Pa.

Above: Lao Cai, Vietnam

They then take a shuttle bus from the station up the winding, switchback road to Sa Pa, which takes about an hour and drops passengers off on Cau May, Sa Pa’s main street.

Above: Cau May Street, Sapa

The best way to reach Sapa is via the overnight train from Hanoi.

It’s a nine-hour ride from Hanoi to Lao Cai.

Above: Lao Cai – Hanoi Railway

Tickets need to be booked in advance from Hanoi Train Station.

Take a cabin with a bunk bed.

From Lao Cai, it will take about 45 minutes to an hour of road travel (either by minibus or taxi) to get to the desired destination.

Above: Hanoi – Lao Cai train

Travellers also have the option to drive from Hanoi (usually by motorcycle), but the direct route to the capital will take about 10 hours.

Another way to get to Sapa is riding a motorbike or scooter.

The trip from Hanoi takes about 10 hours.

Due to the rugged mountainous terrain, the roads may offer spectacular views, but it is not an ideal option for novice riders.

Don’t forget that an international driver’s license is required to rent and ride a motorbike in Vietnam.

During your trip, the temperature can get low at night so make sure you prepare some warm layers in your luggage.

Getting around Sapa is mostly done on foot.

The town is very small and the steep streets are easy to navigate. 

Above: Sa Pa

Motorbikes, with or without a driver, can be arranged through hotels in Sa Pa.

Self-drive is available but you will need to be an experienced biker to tackle the stony mountain tracks.

Make sure you test the bike for faults before leaving town.

It’s also possible to hire your own jeep and driver (around $100/day) via Sa Pa’s tour operators, depending on availability, but if you want to tackle the whole northwestern circuit you’ll find cheaper long-term prices in Hanoi.

The misty town of Sapa features a variety of accommodation options, especially for the travelers in the low to mid-range budget, from hostels, hotels to family-run homestays.

It also gives many options for travellers to stay in the luxury hotels.

Diverse in styles and budgets, most of the hotels in the local area look out over the valleys with spectacular views of the Hoang Lien Mountains and Mount Fansipan.

Depending on your demands, you might choose to stay in a downtown/village accommodation.

If convenience is your priority, a downtown hotel would be the best choice.

Thanks to its ideal location, downtown Sapa is a convenient base to discover the popular attractions around.

It is also where to find the restaurants and bars.

Above: Sa Pa

For anyone seeking the get-out-of-town experience and eager for something a little more authentic, village accommodation would be the ideal option.

Just a 20-minute ride away, you will find quiet hamlets and humble homestays that embrace a totally different vibe.

Despite the glut of guesthouses and hotels in Sa Pa, rooms can still be in short supply in the summer months, pushing up prices by as much as 50%.

Most hotels bump up prices over weekends too, when the town is crawling with Vietnamese tourists, so it’s worth considering a midweek visit.

Most places offer some kind of heating, such as electric blankets, but it is best to check rather than risk shivering all night.

Above: Sa Pa

Foreigners can also now stay in many of Sa Pa’s surrounding minority villages, though you’ll need to arrange this through guesthouses and travel agencies, as independent trekking and village visits are frowned upon.

Above: Cat Cat Village

For such a small town, there is a surprisingly large collection of hotels in Sapa.

The majority of accommodation caters to locals and backpackers.

Hotel prices in Sapa are noticeably cheaper than in the big cities so a comfortable guesthouse should be within the budget of most visitors.

Many hotels downtown also provide visa arrangements, train tickets and local Sapa tour packages with an additional fee.

The town may be very crowded during the peak season so visitors are recommended to make a reservation.

Also, during the weekends, prices can be charged slightly higher due to demands.

Sa Pa has the widest range of food in the north outside Hanoi.

One benefit of the building boom is that there is plenty of choice, with many places serving a mixture of local cuisine and foreign dishes.

To go where the locals are, try the street stalls along Pham Xuan Huan, parallel to Cau May, which serve pho and rice.

Some stay open late into the night, when the focus shifts to barbecued meat and rice wine.

If you are looking for a good meal in Sapa, head to Cau May Street, which is the main street where most of the restaurants and cafés are located.

It is worth taking a walk to Centre Square at around 6 pm, as there are frequent performances of ethnic music and dance taking place there.

There are several ATMs dotted around Sa Pa.

The Agribank on Cau May can exchange cash.

You can find a post office at Ham Rong, though service is poor and mail delivery times are exceptionally long.

Above: Sa Pa

Sapa is not known for its hectic nightlife scene.

There are a couple of bars offering a place to meet fellow travellers, drink a few beers and play a game of pool.

Most restaurants sell beer and other drinks, but tend to close early in the evening.

You can find a few karaoke joints frequented by middle-class Vietnamese travellers.

There are no nightclubs or dance halls.

Above: Sa Pa night

Gather on Tuyen Pho Di Bo, a pedestrian street (or “walking street“) and see all manner of food and kitsch on display in curbside kiosks or upon blankets spread in the middle of the thoroughfare.

Children with doe eyes and sad expressions implore your attention to buy their wares.

Crowds stroll by and tourists are invisible within the throng.

This street could be anywhere in Asia, save for the distinctive costumes of those who came for a different life from remote villages to Sapa, only to be compelled to commercialize their heritage through displays of traditional attire.

It is a street filled with life and a casual indifference towards that life.

A mouse streaks across the pavement, all manner of meat is gathered atop grills, all is sound and sight, music blaring, fabrics flaring, people staring, smiles sharing the night.

Above: Tuyen Pho Du Bo Street, Sapa

I am uncertain as to whether Heidi and José actually witnessed the Love Market or not, for with the passage of time and the score of events that have transpired since, memories grow faint, but I feel certain that they both definitely heard of this – for its fame would make this inevitable – and may have pondered their own individual quests for romance in their lives.

At the time of her travels in Vietnam, Heidi was between boyfriends.

(I am unsure of José‘s status at the time, but perhaps his arriving in Vietnam on his home may suggest that he was as unattached romantically to someone as Heidi was.

Above: Logo of Argentina Airlines

As for your narrator, I was then, and still remain, married to a lovely doctor resident in Switzerland, where I first met and worked with Heidi.)

Above: Flag of Switzerland

As I continue to spin the tale of Heidi‘s travels in northern Vietnam I find myself curious as to how her generation seeks out and finds love.

I suspect (and accept with neither approval nor criticism) that her generation may be more promiscuous than mine was.

But the extent of her generation’s proclivities is not my concern here.

My curiosity has been piqued by the very words “Love Market” – people in the market searching for romance.

Psychologist Dr. Polly Young-Eisendrath speaks of why love in the 21st century is so difficult:

The nature of love in the 21st century has beckoned us to a new cultural and social horizon from which we may be able to learn how to manage our conflicts between love and hate, between dominance and submission, between surrender and self-protection, without creating an enemy.

Either we will learn how to grow and develop in this way or our narcissistic longings for a “perfect love” will defeat us.

I believe that the contemporary couple relationship has created an urgent and critical challenge to the stability of our families and our lives.

I want this challenge to lead to greater wisdom instead of a failure to love.”

Above: Dr. Polly Young-Eisendrath

I think love is a wonderful and splendid phenomenon.

I am here and now in Eskişehir witnessing the blossoming of romance between a good friend and a new colleague.

Finding yourself attracted to someone you work with is so common that it borders on the cliché.

That being said, I feel nothing but happiness towards and from the couple.

I think too many people – men and women alike – feel that they cannot be happy unless they are in a relationship.

But a relationship never creates happiness.

Happiness must be equally brought into the relationship.

Happiness is shared, never won as a prize.

Rather than obsessing over finding a mate, time could be better spent in developing ourselves.

Too few women know how to be alone.

Too few men know how to embrace solitude as a positive thing.

As much as being in love is desirable, I feel that there is a danger of losing one’s individuality in the compromises that come with being a couple.

The tingles of new love make each encounter feel like an adventure, but are the tingles destined to last?

I am unsure here.

Before we can learn to love under current conditions, we need to reflect a bit on our past traditions. 

Marriage moved relatively quickly from being a vow of impersonal loyalty and a commitment “in sickness and in health until death do us part” for the sake of the family and property to a personal and transitory vow for as long as this meets my needs”.

This shift has made everyone a little nervous, and some people now feel almost obliged to break off a relationship if they no longer find their own image and values reflected in the other person in the way they expect:

How can I be with someone like this?

Has globalization created this sort of sentiment amongst the young of the Hmong?

Has the Love Market become nothing more than an excuse to traffic trinkets to tourists?

How do Hmong young meet their mates?

For that matter, how does today’s generation come together?

Because ideas of the hierarchy are eschewed in our contemporary lives, our relationships are based on ideas of equality and reciprocity, as well as personal desire.

Equality, mutuality, reciprocity and desire are destabilizing influences in a partnership or a family because of the ongoing requirements to negotiate needs and conflicts on a day-to-day or even hour-to-hour basis.

Frequent and repetitive negotiations require emotional and communication skills that most of us lack.

Our ordinary daily conflicts can soon become exhausting and dispiriting because no solutions are arrived at.

These conflicts (even the most benign ones, like “What colour should we paint the kitchen?”) may threaten to undermine our commitment to our relationships because they quickly lead us to review whether or not we want tolive with someone who is like this.”

On top of all this, human beings (Homo sapiens) may, unfortunately, despite their intentions, simply feel more comfortable and at ease in a hierarchy in which one individual seems to be in charge.

Then, the power arrangements are clear even if they rest on oppression — and potentially, abuse.

I am not a psychologist.

I can only say, from my limited point of view, that many of the relationships I have witnessed play out the dynamic of one individual dominating the other in the union.

So often it seems that one of the two will judge their own value by their partner’s estimation of their usefulness.

Our desire for validation, for praise from a significant other, makes us dependent, creates an addiction that is only rewarded through increased productivity that generates the praise.

I cannot, for certain, know the mind of Heidi.

Merely I wonder at the wisdom of the Eurythmics’ song Sweet Dreams Are Made of This:

Sweet dreams are made of this
Who am I to disagree?
I travel the world and the seven seas
Everybody’s looking for something

Some of them want to use you
Some of them want to get used by you
Some of them want to abuse you
Some of them want to be abused

Above: Annie Lennox, Eurythmics, Sweet Dreams Are Made of This video clip

But in today’s world, you most likely believe that you no longer want a hierarchy in your personal life.

Instead, you want to be equal with your partner.

You want to be respected, you want to be witnessed and held in mind, and you want to be found desirable and cared for.

These are the demands of personal love.

I wonder:

Is there truly equality between the sexes?

Equality infers that a comparison exists within a particular dynamic, but do men and women actually live according to the same rules, playing the same game?

Sometimes I think that in the chemistry that creates attraction between people it is assumed that thoughts and feelings are in sync.

Sometimes I think that one side is playing checkers while the other side plays chess.

Sometimes I wonder how creative we could be if we could conquer our craving for companionship.

Above: Murray Head, One Night in Bangkok video clip

Personal love is different from romance and from biological attachment bonds.

Personal love is much more demanding and challenging than a secure attachment or pair bond because it typically requires functioning together with a partner in multiple roles in our daily lives and using psychological insights, and even spiritual skills, that are unfamiliar and may seem burdensome.

Attachment bonds and biology play a role in personal love, but only a minor one.

Living together over time and solving problems with someone who is meant to be your best friend, your co-parent, your sexual partner, and possibly your business partner, in a reciprocal and mutual relationship, is a radical new endeavor for which the old archetypes and myths, as well as the current neurological and biological models, do not provide adequate guidance.

But is there truly reciprocity between the sexes?

Or does one gender call the shots while the other strives for praise for doing what the other wants?

Why do we crave validation from others when we should embrace our own individuality and love ourselves independently from someone else’s approval?

In today’s marriage — I will use the term “marriage” loosely here to mean a long-term committed bond —you fall in love with a stranger to whom you then commit in a relationship in which you promise not to dominate, control or break the trust.

Too often have I borne witness to that promise being broken.

Furthermore, you must also remain true to yourself — your own needs and values — or the relationship will not thrive.

Herein lies my own personal struggle:

Determining what it is that I need and value.

I wonder:

What is it that the Hmong man, the Hmong woman, Heidi herself, needs and values?

Personal love breaks all the rules that marriage has followed for centuries.

Most radical is that this kind of love requires that an emotional and mental space be created in which both partners can grow and develop psychologically and spiritually.

This process begins with disillusionment after the romance has ended.

But do both partners develop?

What would the world be like if we really used our intelligence and imagination?

Imagine a new world built from new ideas instead of a fight to preserve values that bind us to notions that stifle our individuality.

Can composers create something other than love songs?

Can writers write of nothing but romance?

Can painters paint beauty that is not exclusively feminine?

While disillusionment is the death knell for the initial romance, it is a necessary development for personal love and romance to mature into ongoing intimacy.

Here is a radical idea:

When you fall in love you have fallen into your own unconsciousness, and you can only step out of that unconsciousness after you begin to see what you have projected — both in idealization and in disillusionment.

It is the nature of projection that you see and feel as though the disavowed aspects of yourself (either idealized or devalued) are within another person, not yourself.

You will feel this as a fact, as though it were absolutely true.

But initial disillusionment is critically important on the path of love because it is the first opportunity to notice your projection — after it has become sour and negative, when your partner begins to seem like someone you don’t like and someone you must defend against.

Marriage (as the good doctor defines it) is an exchange of vows, but while vowing oneself to another, is this not a disavowal of oneself simultaneously?

You then must develop, as the next step, a more complex picture of your partner and yourself that includes your projected anxieties, images and desires.

The truth is that this other person cannot satisfy all (or maybe even most) of your needs or be your friend in all the ways you had hoped.

Embracing this truth (again and again) in a way that does not prohibit intimacy and friendship with your partner is an ongoing commitment.

The process of taking back our projections never ends.

It means you have to maintain a kind of psychological openness that helps you repeatedly get to know your partner anew and to look at yourself with fresh eyes as well.

Again this is presuming a synchronicity of thought patterns, an assumption that our desired end goals are in sync.

I have often held to the adage that love is not two people looking into each other’s eyes, but instead they are looking in the same direction.

For personal love to develop into what I call “true love”— a powerful mixture of reality and desire — you must shift from disillusionment into friendship, from antagonism into cooperation, from your partner being your “intimate enemy” into being your intimate friend.

As a result, it requires you to discover and embrace a more complex sense of who you are — your history, vulnerabilities, and so on — since this is the basis of both your idealizations and your disillusionments.

Can couples become cooperative companions?

The defenses that surround the pain of disillusionment often keep couples from moving into being intimate after feeling like enemies.

Partners, and their friends and relatives, also tend to make critical appraisals of a devalued partner, such as “he’s an alcoholic” or “she’s needy” or “he has bipolar disorder” or “she’s an airhead”.

These appraisals lead to gathering evidence and grievances to illustrate their circumstantial “truths”.

And so, disavowed aggressions and feelings of the “moral superiority” of victimhood complicate many daily conflicts with “proof” that a devalued partner is defective or mean-spirited.

True love, however, requires walking through disillusionment without losing your faith and hope of finding your best friend again through a fog of confusion, discouragement, and pain.

Sadly, it is at the juncture of defensive disillusionment where most committed couples flounder and become discouraged and feel imprisoned.

It is at this point where traditional marriages typically lost their way and entered into the War between the Sexes.

Learning to navigate the path from disillusionment to true love is what all couples must learn to do in this new age.

The good doctor suggests that we are in a new age.

And yet what I see are old problems being attempted with old solutions disguised by new technologies.

In the West a dependency and addiction to technology has led the yearning youth of today to turn to electronics to elicit romance.

But has not the game, the dance, of the Love Market, really become simply an adaptation to our technological “progress“?

One side still continues to seduce the other.

One side still chases the other.

One side still succumbs to the passion of the other.

Vows are exchanged, first privately, perhaps later publicly.

The game continues, the dance goes on, humanity perpetuates itself, the band plays on.

History repeats itself.

But have we learned from history?

The idea of Sapa’s Love Market is poetry writ large on a canvass of clichés.

It rests on the notion that love can be found, if one is willing to put oneself out into the market.

That somewhere out there love is waiting to be discovered, that elusive Eldorado, that secret Shangri-la, that unfathomable Utopia, may be uncovered in an unfamiliar place beyond our ken.

I know, for I once was (and perhaps still am) as Neil Young sang:

I want to live
I want to give
I’ve been a miner for a heart of gold
It’s these expressions
I never give
That keep me searching for a heart of gold

And I’m getting old

I’ve been to Hollywood
I’ve been to Redwood
I crossed the ocean for a heart of gold
I’ve been in my mind
It’s such a fine line
That keeps me searching for a heart of gold

But the truth is wherever we go, there we are.

Who we are does not change dependent upon where we are.

Whether your home is in Canada or Switzerland or Turkey, north in China or south in Vietnam.

We travel to discover our differences only to realize our similarities.

This could Rotterdam or Liverpool or Rome, and universally men are men and women women.

The same hang-ups, the same problems, the same games, the same basic ideas.

Only time, technology and place differ.

Reality is what we perceive it to be, not necessarily what it actually is.

The young believe that their perspective is unique, that they can change the rules, that they understand the game, that the problems of today bear no resemblance whatsoever to those of yesteryear.

The old leave the young to these illusions in the hope that they will learn from the resulting disillusionment.

The old are as equally foolish in their own way as the young are in theirs.

Night falls upon the mountain town of Sapa and the wandering through the streets amongst the purveyors of kitsch in costumes of compromised culture will draw to a close.

Above: Sa Pa night

Heidi and José return to their hostel/hotel, retire to their separate rooms and sleep the dreamless slumber that the trial of travelling brings.

A plan has been formed, a three-day hike has been planned, and they will journey together, for solitude leads to thought and travel is supposed to transport us from our familiar fears and ever present anxieties.

Heidi is between relationships and is offered an opportunity for reflection.

Life offers the human being two choices:

Animal existence, a search for immediate self-gratification in indulgences unhindered.

Or a spiritual existence wherein one can discover that which is truly of value.

Will there be a longing and interest in the mysteries of self-discovery?

Or simply a desire to satisfy the senses in the novelty of faraway places with strange sounding names that offer the similar gratifications of the familiar?

I do not know her mind.

I can only guess her thoughts as a projection of my own through the tiny prism of the accounts she has given me of her travels.

Sapa is simply a new place seen though someone else’s eyes in tales told in tones of an older man.

Perhaps one day, God willing / Inshallah, I will stroll into Sapa and see its sights for myself.

But the Sapa I will see won’t be the same as that Heidi experienced.

The Sapa I speak of here may not be the Sapa which she knew there.

Perhaps the wisdom we seek is like the Hmong women hiding in the forest, hoping to be found, embraced and cherished.

The search continues.

Heaven only knows what we will find.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook / Rough Guide to Vietnam / Polly Young-Eisendrath, Love between Equals / Morning Star News, “Officials in Vietnam Claim Christian Who Died in Police Custody Committed Suicide“, 9 April 2013