Canada Slim and the Universal Language

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Wednesday 14 December 2022

Go forth.“, the Prophet said.

Perform the march with bow and arrow.

Be in God’s protection and safety.

Receive these good tidings.

Of all the spirits you met in this assembly and whose hands you kissed, you are vouchsafed to visit their tombs.

You will be a world traveller and unique among men.

The well-protected kingdoms through which you pass, the fortresses and towns, the strange and wonderful moments, each land’s praiseworthy qualities and products, its food and drink, its latitude and longitude:

Record all of these and compose a wonderful work.

Make use of my weapon and become my son in this world and the next.

Do not abandon the path of truth.

Be free of envy and hatred.

Pay the due of bread and salt.

Be a faithful friend but no friend to the wicked.

Learn goodness from the good.

Evliya Çelebi, The Book of Travels

Sometimes a man just needs to be surrounded by beauty.

This is why it is nice to work in a school where half the staff and half of our students are female.

This is why it is nice to occasionally see the wife from time to time.

This is why, despite some standards of behaviour exhibited by the locals I could live without, I look forward to visiting Switzerland again at the beginning of next month.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Certainly the wife and I will do a spot of travelling – to Freiburg im Breisgau and Konstanz (Germany) and to Zürich (the New York of Switzerland) – but I am also looking forward to simply strolling upon country roads between the neighbouring village of Münsterlingen to the west of the hamlet (where our residence remains) and Altnau to the east.

Above: Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Rheintorturm (Rhine Gate Tower), Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Oberdorf (Upper Town), Altnau, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

I began, not so long ago, a travelogue of a journey from Landschlacht to Mürren, commencing with Landschlacht itself, for I seek to show my gentle readers that there is magic and depth in even the most mundane (at first glance) of ordinary communities – whether they be in Canada, Switzerland or Vietnam.

Above: Landschlacht (Münsterlingen), Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Mürren, Canton Bern, Switzerland

The first destination the traveller meets in leaving Landschlacht bound for Mürren via the scenic route is Altnau – “the next town over” as one might say in Canada.

Above: Beyond the bend of the highway, beneath the glory of the heavens, Altnau

Altnau is a town (and a municipality in the district of Kreuzlingen in the Canton of Thurgau in Switzerland.

Above: Coat of arms of Altnau

Above: Flag of Canton Thurgau

The Kirchdorf (church settlement) consists of the upper and lower villages and other settlements. 

Above: Swiss Reformed Church, Altnau

It is located on the old Romanshorn – Kreuzlingen Road near the southern shore of the Bodensee (Lake Constance) on the moraine of the former Rhine Glacier. 

Above: Harbour, Romanshorn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Kreuzlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Satellite image of the Bodensee (Lake Constance)

Above: Map of the Rhine Glacier

The actual centre of Altnau is around two kilometers from the shore of the Bodensee, at 471 metres above sea level. 

It borders on the municipalities of Güttingen, Langrickenbach and Münsterlingen. 

Above: Location of Altnau Municipality (in pink)

Altnau has a train station on the Kreuzlingen – Romanshorn railway (or to be precise, the Schaffhausen – Wil rail line).

Above: Altnau Station

Above: Schaffhausen, Canton Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Above: Wil, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

In 787 the village was first mentioned as Althinouva (Aldo’s land by the water).

In the 8th century, the Monastery of St. Gallen was made wealthy here. 

Above: Abbey Cathedral of St. Gallen, St. Gallen, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

In 1155, Emperor Frederick Barbarossa confirmed that the Cathedral in Konstanz owned the property rights to the Altnau court and church. 

Above: (seated) Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa (1122 – 1190)

Above: Konstanz Cathedral

The noble rights over the University of Konstanz lands here, which belonged to the Freiherren (free lords) von Altenklingen around 1300, passed to various Konstanz families in the Late Middle Ages (1378: family Schwarz / 1430: family Tettikofen / 1468 family Mangolt). 

Above: Logo of the University of Konstanz

From 1471 to 1798, Altnau was held by the city of Konstanz. 

Above: Coat of arms of the City of Konstanz

In 1454, Altnau was included in the Appenzeller Landrecht (law courts), but had to give these rights up after a complaint from the Cathedral chapter.

Above: Flag of Appenzell

The parish rights passed in 1347 from the Cathedral Provost to the Cathedral Dean. 

After the Reformation in 1528, the few Catholics that remained here were cared for from Konstanz, with the Altnau church shared between both Catholics and Protestants.

In 1810 the parity relationship was dissolved and two churches were built. 

Above: Martin Luther (1483 – 1546), pioneer of the Protestant Reformation

The rights of the village were first handed down in 1468. 

Above: Aerial view of Altnau (1924)

In the 19th century, farmers switched from three field grain production to livestock and dairy production.

Above: The three-field system of crop rotation

In 1880 a dairy company was established. 

The viticulture (wine industry), which had been in operation since the Middle Ages came to an end in 1912. 

Above: Altnau viticulture

Field fruit growing was documented in the 19th century:

After 1945, the high stems were replaced by extensive low stem cultures. 

Above: Altnau apple production

Like the Lake Road built around 1840, the Lake Rail Line opened in 1870 brought little upswing in the village because the station was too far away. 

All regional trains between Schaffhausen and Wil – via Kreuzlingen, Romanshorn and St.Gallen – stop at Altnau Station. 

Regional trains run every half hour.

Above: Two Thurbo GTW 2/6 crossing the bridge over the Rhine between Schaffhausen and Feuerthalen, Switzerland

Main road number 13 runs between the Town and the Lake, which leads from Schaffhausen via Kreuzlingen and on to Romanshorn and Rorschach.

There is a port, but no pier for scheduled boats on the Bodensee.

 

Above: Rorschach, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Until the middle of the 20th century, the village was heavily agricultural. 

Nevertheless, industry moved in. 

From 1870 to 1910, numerous Altnau residents worked as hand embroiderers, in 1882 and 1910 the Altwegg and Walser embroidery factories were established, and from 1883 to 1967 the Sallmann knitwear factory offered numerous jobs and employed 17 people in 1883, 60 in 1895 and 41 in 1923. 

The Setafil silk weaving mill, which opened in 1948, ceased production in 1974. 

Above: This 1881 painting (by Emil Rittmeyer) shows the embroidery world trade in the second half of the 19th century.

Left: Embroidery patterns, then factories, the locomotive used for transporting the goods, the installation of a telegraph line.

On the right side, the embroidery is presented to the representatives of all continents.

In 1977, a mechanical engineering company set up in the boatyard built in 1964. 

Above: Altnau Boatyard

In 2016, Altnau offered work to 577 people (converted to full-time positions). 

Of these, 12.9% worked in agriculture and forestry, 27.1% in industry, commerce and construction and 59.9% in the service sector. 

Worth mentioning are:

  • the Reformed Church
  • the Catholic Church 
  • the Apfelweg (Apple Trail), the first fruit nature trail in Switzerland, is a nine-kilometre-long circular route that leads through the local orchards and explains the path of the apple from blossom to fruit on 16 boards. 
  • the ship jetty, which has existed since 2010 and is 270 meters long due to the wide shallow water zone – making it the longest jetty on the Bodensee – it is nicknamed the Bodensee Eiffel Tower, because of its length

Above: Altnau Jetty

Above: Tour Eiffel, Paris, France

The Thurgau village of Altnau is surrounded by gently rolling apple orchards.

Altnau has been breeding, cultivating and processing Jonagold, Gala or Braeburn for generations. 

Above: Gala apples

Above: Braeburn apple

Visitors can find out why apples thrive particularly well here at the information boards along the Altnau Apple Trail. 

The revised adventure trail extends the previous fruit trail and can be explored on foot, by bike or in a horse-drawn carriage. 

Game tips and hands-on activities along the routes are aimed specifically at families with children. 

The tour is particularly beautiful during the apple blossom season in spring or harvest time in autumn.

The starting point of the Apple Trail is at the foot of Altnau, 500 meters from the train station. 

The Altnauer Apfelweg consists of three routes that can be combined to form circular routes of five, six or seven kilometres. 

There is an apple mascot for every path:

East of Altnau, the apple path meanders through the apple orchards beneath the bright red “Lisi” apple. 

The 14 stations tell exciting things about fruit growing and the work of the fruit growers all year round. 

The yellow route with the mascot “Fredi” leads through the middle of the village and presents different types of apples and pears. 

With riddles, recipes and anecdotes, every walk flies by. 

On the green “Emma” route west of Altnau, apple fans meet wild and honey bees and learn a lot about the Thurgau fruit region and the history and cultivation of the crunchy fruit. 

On the red and green routes, Lisi and Emma invite the children balancing on tree trunks, looking for fruit pairs or exploring the earth. 

Fredi inspires on the yellow route with variety information, puzzles and fun. 

The themed trail is varied and offers the best conditions for a trip with the whole family.

Apple path Lisi: The red route, four kilometers long, takes about two hours on foot or one hour by bike. It runs east of Altnau, the main focus is the work of the fruit growers.

Apple path Emma: The green, three-kilometre route takes about an hour and a half on foot and 40 minutes by bike. To the west of the village, she reveals interesting facts about fruit growing, the apple village of Altnau and Thurgau.

Apple path Fredi: The yellow route leads right through the village. Pedestrians need about an hour for the two kilometers. The path is not suitable for cyclists.

Farm shops, restaurants and pubs in and around Altnau offer sweet cider, apple rings and other delicious fruit creations. 

If you run out of breath on the way, you can rest on the numerous benches, rest areas and picnic areas along the route – mostly in front of a wonderful panorama of the Bodensee. 

A tip is the Feierlenhof in Altnau, where the Barth family has been welcoming guests to their own farm for several generations. 

A petting zoo delights children and animal lovers alike.

Above: Feierlenhof, Altnau

The Bodensee has always been considered a transport axis for a wide variety of goods, which were transported by barge. 

Since Eastern Switzerland mainly traded in textiles, it was dependent on a functioning trade in food stuffs, mainly grain. 

Due to the fluctuating water level between summer and winter, a summer and a winter landing site had to be built. 

A pier was built near today’s Altnau, the “Stelli“. 

With the onset of industrialization, ship trade became less relevant as the railroad was faster and easier. 

This also had an effect on the shipping trade on the Bodensee.

Winter ports were no longer used by ships, which is why the Stelli was destroyed by the water over time and sank.

Above: Construction of the Altnau Jetty

The Stelli, which can still be seen with the naked eye today, was examined in 2012 by a diving team from the Thurgau Archaeology Office, who measured the remains, had these results recorded and recovered samples for dating tree rings. 

The salvage showed that the Stelli was an L-shape with two legs, each 10 and 25 meters long. 

It consisted of spruce poles, which were fastened with the tops of the bottom of the lake.

Crosspieces and quarry stones were filled in between the posts.

Rorschach sandstone slabs were placed on top.

It is assumed that the origin of the Stelli goes back to the 17th century. 

The shore of the Municipality of Altnau stretches along the Obersee (upper part of the Bodensee) from northwest to southeast. 

The Altnauer Steg (jetty) is at a right angle to this, so it points to the northeast. 

By raising the ridge of the Lake, Altnau Harbour area is covered to the south and west.

Above: Altnau Jetty

The distance to the next town bordering the lake in the northwest, Kreuzlingen, is around 7.5 kilometers and to the next in the southeast, Romanshorn, around 10 kilometers. 

At least six kilometers must be covered to cross the Lake to Hagnau on the German side of the Bodensee.

Above: Hagnau am Bodensee, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

In contrast to other Swiss inland lakes, the Bodensee does not have a uniform shipping company, but rather several different shipping companies. 

This is due to the location of the Bodensee, because this (specifically the Obersee) is shared by the three countries Germany (Deutschland), Switzerland (Schweiz) and Austria (Österreich).

Above: Map of the Bodensee (Lake Constance)

During the shipping season, the Altnauer Jetty is used by the Romanshorn – Immenstaad – Hagnau – Altnau – Güttingen route.

Above: Immenstaad am Bodensee, Baden-Württemberg, Germany (in winter)

Above: Güttingen Castle, Güttingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

For residents of the municipality of Altnau and the surrounding area as well as for tourists, the footbridge serves as a good leisure offer. 

Provided with a bathing platform at the jetty, another one to the east and several descent possibilities, swimming in the Lake is made possible in the summer season. 

In the event of an emergency, rescue equipment for drowning people is distributed on the railing.

In addition, hobby anglers do not want to fish at the jetty.

Above: The way to Hagnau, Altnau Jetty

As early as 1994, a working group from the municipality of Altnau expressed the desire for a new shipping pier. 

The purpose behind this was that the attractiveness of the community should be promoted. 

In Altnau there is a very large campground, which is particularly busy in the height of summer. 

In this season many people in Altnau go to the Lake to swim. 

Altogether there are up to 2,000 people in the vicinity of the port during the warmest time of the year.

A positive factor was that, according to a 2007 study for additional shipping piers on the Bodensee, Altnau was the location between Kreuzlingen and Horn that would have the lowest environmental impact. 

Shipping also benefited from the immediate increase in tourist attractiveness. 

Above: Horn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

At Altnau Harbour in the direction of the middle of the Lake there is a flat shore, which made the construction of such a long jetty necessary. 

The ground was measured and evaluated by means of probing in 2007. 

The Dr. Vollenweider organization divides the ground into three stratified phases:

  • Young lake deposits: Consisting of slightly clay, relatively fine sandy silt loosely layered with a high water concentration. The layer height is between two and three meters on the bank, further away it increases up to ten meters.
  • Postglacial lake deposits: Consisting of strong clay silts with little fine sand soft to slightly resistant. The layer height is about two meters at the bank and increases up to six meters at a greater distance.
  • Moraine: Consisting of little clay, very silty-fine sand with a high proportion of gravel and stones

Above: Harbour, Altnau

The walkable area of ​​the jetty is 398 meters above sea level and therefore around two meters higher than the summer water level. 

A height of 15 centimeters of concrete can be seen on the side.

The maximum height is 35 centimeters. 

The bridge is founded with hollow concrete piles, each with a diameter of 35 centimetres. 

These stand in pairs 12 meters apart. 

While the western stake is driven vertically into the ground, the eastern stake has a 5º inclination.

The moraine, which is not too deep, is responsible for holding and fixing these.

Barriers are installed on both sides along the jetty. 

The two railings vary from each other. 

The western railing is half solid / half transparent, with a guided chrome steel handrail. 

On the one hand, this heavily protected site is intended to provide security.

On the other hand, it is to prevent disturbances to aquatic animals.

The eastern side, on the other hand, is supported only by longitudinal wire cables – no handrail. 

There is a gap in the area of ​​the bathing platform so that access to it is freely possible.

Above: Altnau Jetty

Canton Thurgau Facts:

  • 900 km of marked cycle paths
  • 1,000 km of hiking trails
  • 150 km of inline skating routes
  • 72 km of shoreline on Lake Constance
  • 200 kinds of apples
  • 210,000 standard apple trees
  • 1,600 hectares of orchards

Romping about in flowering meadows, playing knights and experiencing unforgettable farm adventures:

In Thurgau, even young visitors never get bored. 

The idyllic surroundings and a wide range of leisure activities ensure lots of holiday fun. 

With over 72 kilometers of shoreline, Thurgau also has the longest bathing beach on the Bodensee

The landscape is green and flat everywhere – ideal for bike tours with the family.

When swimming, hiking or cycling, holiday guests can feel nature up close. 

The southern part of the Bodensee stretches out in lush greenery:

Meadow orchards let the petals dance in spring.

In autumn the fruit falls heavily onto the grass.

Anyone who drives further up into the hills will experience new perspectives and very special adventures. 

The ancient cultural landscape also harbors a wealth of treasures:

From pile dwellings to Roman forts, medieval chapels and monasteries to imperial parks and gardens.

First-class wines from local winegrowers, fresh fish from the Bodensee and a multitude of other culinary specialties spoil the palate in Thurgau. 

Whether gourmet restaurant, country inn or rustic Buure-Beiz – Thurgau makes connoisseurs’ hearts beat faster. 

Excellent wines also thrive on the vineyard slopes along the Untersee (Lower Lake), the Rhine and also on sunny Ottenberg near Weinfelden. 

The grape variety Müller Thurgau, which is also called Riesling Sylvaner in this country, has its origins in Thurgau.

Let us raise a glass in memory of one of Altnau’s own, Hans Baumgartner.

Hans Baumgartner (1911 – 1996) was a Swiss photographer and teacher.

Above: Hans Baumgartner

Hans Baumgartner was born in Altnau. 

He trained as a teacher at the Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen (teacher training college) and at the University of Zürich.

Above: Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen buildings constructed in the 1970s

Above: Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen in the former Kreuzlingen Monastery

Above: Logo of the University of Zürich

From 1937 until his retirement he worked as a teacher, until 1962 in Steckborn, later in Frauenfeld.

Above: Steckborn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Frauenfeld, capital of Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Baumgartner’s first photographs were taken in 1929.

Above: Zürich (1936), Hans Baumgartner photo

The journalist Arnold Kübler discovered him in the early 1930s. 

Above: Arnold Kübler

(Arnold Kübler (1890 – 1983) was a Swiss writer, draftsman and journalist. 

He founded the cultural magazine Du (you) in 1941.

Arnold Kübler grew up as the son of an innkeeper and farmer in Wiesendangen.

 

Above: Wiesendangen, Canton Zürich, Switzerland (1934)

He broke off his geology studies and training as a sculptor. 

After World War I, he worked as an actor in Dresden and Berlin. 

He had to give up this career in 1926 after an operation due to scars on his face. 

In 1927, he married Alva Jessen (1887 – 1965). 

The couple had three children: Jörn Kübler (1922 – 1975), Olaf Kübler (1924 – 1987) and Ursula Kübler (1928 – 2010). 

Above: Images of Dresden, Sachsen, Germany

Above: Berlin, Germany

Kübler was able to celebrate greater success with his literary and journalistic work. 

He was appointed editor-in-chief of the Zürcher Illustrierte (Zurich Illustrated) in 1929, which under his lead developed into a respected literary and photographic magazine.

He was convinced that a photograph can also be a vehicle of a message. 

He worked with prominent photographers Paul Senn and Gotthard Schuh among others.)

Above: Paul Senn

(Paul Senn (1901 – 1953) was a Swiss photographer.

After attending school in the city of Bern, Senn learned the trade of advertising draftsman and re-toucher around 1917. 

Above: Bern, Switzerland

After completing his education, he worked in various European cities and from 1922 as a graphic artist in Lyon, France. 

Above: Images of Lyon, France

In 1924, he became picture editor at the Basler Nachrichten (Basel News), where his first photos appeared. 

In 1927 and 1928 he stayed in Milan, Genoa, Germany, Belgium, France and Barcelona. 

Above: Images of Milano (Milan), Italy

Above: Piazza de Ferrari, Genova (Genoa), Italy

Above: Flag of Germany

Above: Flag of Belgium

Above: Flag of France

Above: Images of Barcelona, Spain

After these trips he opened his own graphics and advertising studio in Bern. 

In the 1930s, Senn worked as a photo reporter for the Zürcher Illustrierte and the Berner Illustrierte.

Senn traveled to France, Italy, Spain and the Balkans. 

Above: Flag of Italy

Above: Flag of Spain

Above: Map of the Balkan Peninsula

In 1937, Senn accompanied an aid convoy from the Swiss Aid Committee for the Children of Spain to the war zone of the Spanish Civil War and reported on it in a special issue of the Zürcher Illustrierte

Above: Images of the Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939)

In 1939, he travelled to the US.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

During the Second World War, Senn did active service as an army photographer in the Heer und Haus (Army and Home) division.)

Above: Bronze statue “Morning readiness“, erected in 1941 to celebrate the 650th anniversary of the Swiss Confederation in the park of the Federal Archives in Schwyz (Switzerland)

(In order to strengthen the spirit of the troops, Swiss Army General Henri Guisan ordered the formation of the Army and Home section, a kind of psychological service.

This had the task of maintaining the military will of the troops through lectures and entertainment, even during long military service. 

In the army order of 3 November 1939, he wrote: 

It is absolutely necessary that the troops, despite long service and regardless of the separation of family and work, maintain an elevated state of mind. 

Free from nagging doubts and discouragements, the soldier should maintain equanimity and confidence.

With the formula “Think Swiss and act Swiss”, the “civilian reconnaissance service expanded and launched a campaign to educate the civilian population. 

For this purpose, cadres were recruited from around news agencies and resistance organizations.

Above: Henri Guisan (1874 – 1960)

Army and Home tried to strengthen the will to resist in the population and to supplement the role of the war-censored press. 

Firstly, it was about the “communication of facts” from which the citizen should form his own opinion.

Secondly, the “communication of bases for the discussion” as a means of forming opinions in a democracy, in contrast to propaganda, agitation and terror, which are the methods used by totalitarian states to subdue their subjects.

It organized around 3,000 two-day educational courses, as well as lectures, performances, sporting events and film and radio screenings. 

The 200 voluntary speakers came from all political camps, regions and professions. 

For the lecturing activity of the commanders, Army and Home issued military service letters, which not only called for resistance against the totalitarian threat, but also took a stand for the old custom of granting asylum (December 1942) or against anti-Semitism (May 1943). 

More than 7,000 shop stewards recruited in the lectures distributed the documentation published by the Army and Home in their sphere of activity and gave regular feedback on the respective mood in the population.

In the army order of November 1939, Guisan also gave didactic instructions for Army and Home officers and the unit commanders:

I consider it essential that there is a clear separation between serious lectures, which require constant attention, and purely entertaining events. 

The former belong in working hours, the others in leisure time. 

Both are important, sometimes to teach, sometimes to amuse. 

Teaching does not mean imposing any theories, but rather stimulating thoughts and challenging reflections. 

It is a question of showing the team, above all using concrete examples, the tangible and spiritual reality of Switzerland, its honorable past, the military traditions, honoring our heroes, artists, scientists, pointing out the high level of culture that it has achieved and on to indicate their destiny in this world.

For the historian Peter Dürrenmatt and other contemporary observers, between 1941 and 1945, Army and Home made a decisive contribution to maintaining and strengthening intellectual resilience: 

One can say that never before in the history of the Confederation has there been a movement of anything remotely similar in creative unity existed, like those that formed around the Army’s reconnaissance service, around the idea of ​​’Army and Home’.)

Above: Peter Dürrenmatt (1904 – 1989)

(After the Zürcher Illustrierte was forced to cease publication in 1941, Senn worked for the Schweizer Illustrierte (Switzerland Illustrated) and for Sie + Er (She and He). 

From 1942 to 1944, Senn travelled to southern France several times and reported on the activities of Swiss relief organizations and the construction work in Lyon. 

Above: Lyon, France

After the end of the war in 1945, Paul Senn travelled to the European war zones on behalf of the Swiss Red Cross and the Swiss Donation to War Victims, taking photographs in France and Germany.

Above: Logo of the Swiss Donation

In 1946, Senn stayed in the US for Schweizer Illustrierte, visiting New York and the Swiss Colonies. 

Above: Harlem, New York City, New York, USA (1946) – Paul Senn photograph

(Most immigration from Switzerland took place mainly in the second half of the 19th century. 

The reasons for this were mostly economic in nature, Switzerland was considered one of the poorest countries in Europe at the time.

By 1820, around 25,000 Swiss had immigrated, mainly with the destination of Pennsylvania and the Carolinas. 

Above: Swiss migrants in the US (1946), Paul Senn photograph

In general, the target in the 19th century was the Midwest and the Pacific coast. 

The Italian-speaking Swiss preferred California. 

Some Swiss settlements were established, such as New Glarus (Wisconsin), Gruetli-Laager (Tennessee) and New Bern (North Carolina)(“the birthplace of Pepsi“). )

Above: Flag throwing and Alphorn blowing, New Glarus, Wisconsin, USA

Above: Historical marker, Gruetli-Laager, Tennessee, USA

Above: City Hall, New Bern, North Carolina, USA

Above: Classroom scene, New Bern

In 1947, Senn went to Finland and Germany at the invitation of the Swiss Donation and documented the reconstruction. 

Above: Flag of Finland

In 1950, trips to Germany, France, Italy and England followed. 

Above: Flag of England

In 1951, he founded the College of Swiss Photographers with Werner Bischof, Gotthard Schuh and Jakob Tuggener. 

In 1952 he became a member of the Schweizerischer Werkbund (SWB) (Swiss Work Association) (an association of artists, cultural mediators and other specialists in the field of design).

On 25 April 1953, Senn died of cancer in the Zieglerspital in Bern.)

Above: Zieglerspital (1868 – 2015), Bern, Switzerland

(Gotthard Schuh (1897 – 1969) was a Swiss photographer, painter and graphic artist.

Above: Gotthard Schuh

Gotthard Schuh was born in Berlin to Swiss parents. 

His father was the engineer Christian Heinrich Schuh. 

In 1902 the family moved to Aarau, where he attended school.

Above: Aarau, Canton Aargau, Switzerland

From 1914, he began to paint. 

In 1916, he graduated from the trade school (now the site of the Basel Trade Museum) in Basel. 

Above: Gewerbemuseum, Basel, Switzerland

In 1917, Schuh was drafted as a soldier for border service until the end of the First World War.

Above: Kilometre Zero -where the Swiss border met the Western Front, World War I (1914 – 1918)

From 1919, he lived as a painter in Basel and Geneva. 

Above: Basel, Switzerland

Above: Genève (Geneva), Switzerland

After a long trip to Italy in 1920, he settled in Munich as a painter. 

Above: München (Munich), Bayern (Bavaria), Germany

In 1926, he returned to Switzerland and became manager of a photo shop.

After his marriage in 1927 he moved to Zürich, where he began to take photographs. 

Various exhibitions as a painter followed from 1928 to 1931, during which time he joined the Basel artist group Rot-Blau (red-blue). 

Above: Albert Müller (1897 – 1926)(Rot-Blau), Vineyards in Ticino (1925)

In 1931 his first photos were published in the Zürcher Illustrierte.

 

Above: Gotthard Schuh photograph of Swiss author Friedrich Glauser (1896 – 1938), Zürcher Illustrierte, (3 December 1937)

A picture exhibition followed in Paris in 1932, where he met Pablo Picasso, Fernand Léger and Georges Braque.

Above: Spanish artist Pablo Picasso (1881 – 1973)

Above: French artist Fernand Léger (1881 – 1955)

Above: French artist Georges Braque (1882 – 1963)

From 1933 to 1939, Schuh worked as a freelance photojournalist for the Zürcher Illustrierte, Berliner Illustriete (1892 – 1945), Paris Match and Life (1883 – 2000). 

His reports took him all over Europe and to Indonesia. 

Above: Flag of the European Union

Above: Flag of Indonesia

From 1941 to 1960 he was picture editor at the Neue Züricher Zeitung (NZZ). 

From this period a significant part of his own photographic work illustrated books, of which the most successful was Inseln der Götter (Island of the Gods) published in 1941, the result of his almost 11-month journey through Singapore, Java, Sumatra and Bali undertaken just before the war. 

It was a mixture of reportage and self-reflection, with a poetic quality that, though individual images may be read either way, Schuh sometimes valued over documentary authenticity:

Everyone just depicts what he sees.

Everyone just sees what corresponds to his being.

In 1951, he founded the College of Swiss Photographers together with Werner Bischof, Paul Senn and Jakob Tuggener.

After 1960, Schuh turned to painting again. 

Schuh died in Küsnacht by the Zürchersee (Lake Zurich) in 1969.)

Above: Küsnacht, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

(Werner Bischof (1916 – 1954) was a Swiss photographer and one of the most famous photojournalists of the 20th century.

Above: Werner Bischof

Bischof, son of a merchant, grew up first in Zürich and Kilchberg (Canton Zürich) in Switzerland, but spent his school days in Waldshut (Germany). 

Above: Kilchberg, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Kaiserstrasse (Emperor Street), Waldshut, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

His father had been manager of a branch of a Zürich pharmaceutical factory there since 1922. 

This time was overshadowed by the early death of his mother. 

He attended teachers’ college in Schiers (Canton Graubünden) to become a drawing and physical education teacher. 

Above: Evangelische Mittelschule (EMS), Schiers, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

At the age of 16, Bischof switched to studying at the Zürich School of Applied Arts. 

In 1936, he received his diploma with distinction as a photographer and, after basic training with the Swiss Army, opened in Zürich a studio for fashion and advertising photography. 

After interludes as an employee at a Zurich publishing house, a freelance artist for the Swiss National Exhibition in 1939 and a graphic designer in Paris, he was drafted into military service in Switzerland in 1939. 

In short phases between military deployments, he devoted himself to photographing natural motifs.

In 1942, Bischof published his first photos in the then new monthly magazine Du.

In autumn 1945, he traveled to southern Germany, France and the Netherlands.

He was deeply moved by the hardship in the regions badly affected by the Second World War. 

On behalf of the Swiss Donation he reported on the victims of war-destroyed Europe.

Above: Boy drawing in the ruins, Freiburg im Breisgau, Werner Bischof photographer

In 1948, Bischof represented Time magazine at the St. Moritz Winter Olympics. 

In 1949, his documentary photographs were published in Life magazine.

Bischof joined the newly formed photographers’ cooperative Magnum Photos. 

From 1951, he traveled to the Middle East (famine in Bihar, India) and the Far East (Japan and Korea). 

Above: Seal of the Indian state of Bihar

Above: Flag of Japan

Above: Flag of South Korea

He was a war correspondent for Paris Match magazine during the Indochina War (1946 – 1954). 

Above: French Foreign Legionnaires with a suspected Viet Minh supporter

In 1953, he began a journey through the American continent that had been planned for a long time, visiting and photographing Mexico and Panama and Peru.

Above: Flag of Mexico

Above: Flag of Panama

Above: Flag of Peru

The following year, on 16 May 1954, his SUV crashed into a Peruvian river at Pena de Aguila Andes down a slope.

Bischof was killed.

Above: Pena de Aguila, Peru

In his relatively short life, Werner Bischof was highly productive and dedicated. 

He created a work of 60,000 photographs. 

With his fascinating compositions of light and shadow, Bischof made a name for himself early on as a studio and advertising photographer. 

But when he was able to travel through devastated Europe after the end of the Second World War, his pictures described the suffering and destructiveness of the war with oppressive urgency. 

Above: Two girls inside a church destroyed by the war. Friedrichshafen (Germany). 1945, Werner Bischof photograph

Above: A man looking at the city in ruins. Frankfurt (Germany). 1946 – Werner Bischof photograph

Above: A man walking through the destroyed city searching for food in Freiburg im Breisgau (Germany). 1945 – Werner Bischof photograph

His motto now became:

It is not important to make an art out of photography as in the old sense, but rather the deep social responsibility of the photographer, who does a job with the given elementary photographic means that cannot be done with other means would be able to afford. 

This work must become the unadulterated document of temporal reality.

Above: A view of the Thames River from Westminster Abbey in London. 1950 – Werner Bischof photograph

With this in mind, Bischof created images that show bitter poverty and deep suffering, but are also documents of the inner strength and willpower of the people depicted. 

The superficiality and sensationalism of the editorial business repelled him, but he was mostly sent to crisis areas. 

Despite the external circumstances, the love for people and the love for the cause are always visible in Bischof’s photographs.

Aesthetic feeling, elementary formative power and human commitment combined with him to an inner unity.

One of his most famous pictures shows a boy playing the flute walking along a precipice. 

Bischof took the picture in Peru in 1954. 

The NZZ called the picture “an icon of photojournalism“. 

Werner Bischof was a photographer personality who, after the Second World War, photographed the trouble spots of this world with the eye of a poet and the awareness of a politician.”)

Showing the shadows of poverty and despair, tempered with his desire to travel the world, Bischof conveyed the beauty of nature and humanity.

I felt compelled to venture forth and explore the true face of the world.

Leading a satisfying of plenty has blinded many of us to the immense hardships beyond our borders.

Above: A pleasant sleep – Werner Bischof photograph

(Jakob Tuggener (1904 – 1988) was a Swiss photographer.

Above: Jakob Tuggener?

Tuggener did an apprenticeship as a mechanical draftsman in Zurich. 

In 1930 – 1931 he studied graphics, typography, drawing, window dressing and film at the Reimann School in Berlin (then the largest private arts and crafts school in Germany). 

His work at that time was published in the school magazine Farb und Form (Colour and Form). 

Above: Reimann Art School (1902 – 1940), Berlin, Germany

After his return to Switzerland he worked as an industrial photographer. 

In 1934, Tuggener bought a Leica camera and took his first photographs at the Grand Bal Russe (Russian ball) in Zürich. 

The subject of dance balls would not let him go for two decades. 

The glories of nightlife enchanted him with their alabaster light illuminating a fairy tale of women and flowing silk.

Above: ACS Ball Grand Hotel Dolder, 1948 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

He photographed balls in Zürich’s Grand Hotel Dolder and the Hotel Baur au Lac, St. Moritz’s Palace Hotel, and the Vienna (Wien) Opera Ball. 

Above: Dolder Grand Hotel, Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Hotel Baur au Lac, Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Palace Hotel, St. Moritz, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

Above: Vienna State Opera, Wien (Vienna), Austria

He also devoted himself to topics such as country life and technology.

Above: Untitled, Oeschgen, Canton Aargau, Switzerland, 1942 Jakob Tuggener photograph

Above: Plant entrance, Oerlikon Machine Factory, Canton Zürich, Switzerland, 1934 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

In 1943, Tuggener made his breakthrough into avant-garde Swiss photography with his book Factory: a photographic essay on the relationship between man and machine

Above: Grande Dixence power station, Canton Valais, Switzerland, 1942 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

Above: Barrage de la Grande Dixence, Lac des Dix reservoir, Canton Valais, Switzerland

After the Second World War, his pictures were shown in the New York Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) and published in the magazines Leica-Foto and Du, among others. 

Above: Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York City, New York, USA

In 1949, the new editor of Camera magazine, Walter Laubli (1902 – 1991), published a substantial portfolio of Jakob Tuggener’s pictures made at upper-class entertainments and in factories, a world familiar to him from his early apprenticeship as a technical draftsman in Zürich, as well as a series of stills from his silent films, with an introduction by Hans Kasser (1907 – 1978), himself a photographer and member of the Werkbund.

Alongside Tuggener’s work, Camera presented the 25-year-old Robert Frank, who had just returned to his native Switzerland  after two years abroad, with pages including some of his first pictures from New York.

The magazine promoted the two as representatives of the ‘new photography’ of Switzerland.

Above: Cover of the 1st issue of Camera magazine, July 1922

Tuggener was a role model for Frank, first mentioned to him by his boss and mentor, Zurich commercial photographer Michael Wolgensinger (1913–1990).

Tuggener, as a serious artist who had left the commercial world behind, was the “one Frank really did love, from among all Swiss photographers”. 

Fabrik, as a photo book, was a model for Frank’s Les Américains (1958).

A first major exhibition of Tuggener’s “Ball Nights” pictures took place in Munich in 1969. 

In 1951, Tuggener founded the College of Swiss Photographers with Werner Bischof, Gotthard Schuh and Paul Senn.

Above: Ball Nights photograph, Jakob Tuggener

The “pictorial poet” Tuggener is regarded as a representative of social documentary photography, one of the most important areas of photographic art. 

For Tuggener, people, truth and the concern for social justice were at the centre of his work. 

His work is characterized by the interplay of the artistic media of painting, photography and film with the three main themes of work in the factory, life in the country, and glamorous balls in magnificent hotels. 

He created expressive photography and knew how to assemble radical sections and dynamic perspectives into film-like series of images. 

As with a moving camera, he captured the “pulse of life” and condensed fleeting moments into a poetic overall view.

In 1950, Tuggener wrote: 

The photographer as an expressionist does not exist in the commercial register. 

He is the freest and free. 

Detached from all purpose, he only photographs the pleasure of his experience.

Above: Work in the boiler (1935), Jakob Tuggener photograph

His archive is in the Fotomuseum in Winterthur.)

Above: Fotomuseum, Winterthur, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

(Robert Frank (1924 – 2019) was a Swiss photographer and documentary filmmaker, who became an American bi-national.

Above: Robert Frank

His most notable work, the 1958 book titled The Americans, earned Frank comparisons to a modern-day Alexis de Tocqueville (1805 – 1889) for his fresh and nuanced outsider’s view of American society.

Above: French political philosopher Alexis de Tocqueville

Critic Sean O’Hagan, writing in The Guardian in 2014, said The Americans

“‘The Americanschanged the nature of photography, what it could say and how it could say it.

It remains perhaps the most influential photography book of the 20th century.

Above: Sean O’Hagan

Frank later expanded into film and video and experimented with manipulating photographs and photomontage.

Above: Robert Frank, “Couple/Paris” 1952

Frank was born in Zürich, Switzerland, the son of Rosa (Zucker) and Hermann Frank.

His family was Jewish.

Robert states in Gerald Fox’s 2004 documentary Leaving Home, Coming Home that his mother, Rosa (other sources state her name as Regina), had a Swiss passport, while his father, Hermann originating from Frankfurt, Germany had become stateless after losing his German citizenship as a Jew.

They had to apply for the Swiss citizenship of Robert and his older brother, Manfred.

Though Frank and his family remained safe in Switzerland during World War II, the threat of Nazism nonetheless affected his understanding of oppression.

Above: Flag of the National Socialist Party (1920 – 1945)

He turned to photography, in part as a means to escape the confines of his business-oriented family and home, and trained under a few photographers and graphic designers before he created his first hand-made book of photographs, 40 Fotos, in 1946. 

Frank emigrated to the US in 1947.

He secured a job in New York City as a fashion photographer for Harper’s Bazaar.

In 1949, the new editor of Camera magazine, Walter Laubli, published a substantial portfolio of Jakob Tuggener  pictures made at upper-class entertainments and in factories, alongside the work of the 25 year-old Frank who had just returned to his native Switzerland after two years abroad, with pages including some of his first pictures from New York.

The magazine promoted the two as representatives of the ‘new photography‘ of Switzerland.

Tuggener was a role model for the younger artist, first mentioned to him by Frank’s boss and mentor, Zürich commercial photographer Michael Wolgensinger (1913 – 1990) who understood that Frank was unsuited to the more mercenary application of the medium.

Tuggener, as a serious artist, had left the commercial world behind.

Above: Michael Wolgensinger

Frank soon left to travel in South America and Europe.

He created another handmade book of photographs that he shot in Peru, and returned to the US in 1950.

That year was momentous for Frank:

He participated in the group show 51 American Photographers at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA).

He married fellow artist Mary Lockspeiser, with whom he had two children, Andrea and Pablo.

Though he was initially optimistic about US society and culture, Frank’s perspective quickly changed as he confronted the fast pace of American life and what he saw as an overemphasis on money.

He now saw America as an often bleak and lonely place, a perspective that became evident in his later photography.

Frank’s own dissatisfaction with the control that editors exercised over his work also undoubtedly colored his experience.

Above: Robert Frank, “Trolley —New Orleans”, 1955

He continued to travel, moving his family briefly to Paris. 

Above: Robert Frank, “Tulip/Paris” 1950

In 1953, he returned to New York and continued to work as a freelance photojournalist for magazines, including McCall’s, Vogue and Fortune.

Associating with other contemporary photographers, he helped form the New York School of Photographers during the 1940s and 1950s.

In 1955, Frank achieved further recognition with the inclusion of seven of his photographs (many more than most other contributors) in the world-touring MoMA exhibition The Family of Man that was to be seen by 9 million visitors and with a popular catalogue that is still in print.

Frank’s contributions had been:

  • in Spain of a woman kissing her swaddled babe-in-arms
  • of a bowed old woman in Peru
  • a rheumy-eyed miner in Wales
  • others in England and the US, including two (one atypically soft-focus) of his wife in pregnancy; and one (later to be included in The Americans) of six laughing women in the window of the White Tower Hamburger Stand on Fourteenth Street, New York City.

Inspired by fellow Swiss Jakob Tuggener’s 1943 filmic book Fabrik, Bill Brandt’s The English at Home (1936) and Walker Evans’ American Photographs (1938), Frank secured a Guggenheim Fellowship in 1955 to travel across the United States and photograph all strata of its society.

Cities he visited included: 

  • Detroit, Michigan
  • Dearborn, Michigan  
  • Savannah, Georgia
  • Miami Beach, Florida
  • St. Petersburg, Florida  
  • New Orleans, Louisiana 
  • Houston, Texas 
  • Los Angeles, California 
  • Reno, Nevada
  • Salt Lake City, Utah
  • Butte, Montana
  • Chicago, Illinois.

Above: Detroit, Michigan, USA

Above: Dearborn, Michigan, USA

Above: Savannah, Georgia, USA

Above: Miami Beach, Florida, USA

Above: St. Petersburg, Florida, USA

Above: New Orleans, Louisiana, USA

Above: Houston, Texas, USA

Above: Los Angeles, California, USA

Above: Reno, Nevada, USA

Above: Images of Salt Lake City, Utah, USA

Above: Images of Butte, Montana, USA

Above: Chicago, Illinois, USA

He took his family along with him for part of his series of road trips over the next two years, during which time he took 28,000 shots.

83 of these were selected by him for publication in The Americans.

Frank’s journey was not without incident.

He later recalled the anti-Semitism to which he was subject in a small Arkansas town.

I remember the policeman took me into the police station.

He sat there and put his feet on the table.

It came out that I was Jewish because I had a letter from the Guggenheim Foundation.

They really were primitive.

He was told by the sheriff:

Well, we have to get somebody who speaks Yiddish.”

They wanted to make a thing out of it.

It was the only time it happened on the trip.

They put me in jail.

It was scary.

Nobody knew where I was.

Above: State flag of Arkansas

Elsewhere in the South, he was told by a sheriff that he had “an hour to leave town“.

Those incidents may have contributed to the dark view of America found in the work.

Above: The states in dark red compose the Deep South today.

Adjoining areas of Texas and North Florida are also considered part of this subregion.

Shortly after returning to New York in 1957, Frank met Beat writer Jack Kerouac “at a New York party where poets and Beatniks were,” and showed him the photographs from his travels.

However, according to Joyce Johnson, Kerouac’s lover at the time, she met Frank while waiting for Kerouac to emerge from a conference with his editors, at Viking Press, looked at Frank’s portfolio, and introduced them to each other. 

Kerouac immediately told Frank:

Sure I can write something about these pictures.

He eventually contributed the introduction to the US edition of The Americans.

Above: Jack Kerouac (1922 – 1969)

Frank also became lifelong friends with Beat poet Allen Ginsberg.

Above: Allen Ginsberg (1926 – 1997)

Frank was one of the main visual artists to document the Beat subculture, who felt an affinity with Frank’s interest in documenting the tensions between the optimism of the 1950s and the realities of class and racial differences.

The irony that Frank found in the gloss of American culture and wealth over this tension gave his photographs a clear contrast to those of most contemporary American photojournalists, as did his use of unusual focus, low lighting and cropping that deviated from accepted photographic techniques.

This divergence from contemporary photographic standards gave Frank difficulty at first in securing an American publisher. 

Les Américains was first published in 1958 by Robert Delpire in Paris, as part of its Encyclopédie Essentielle series, with texts by Simone de Beauvoir, Erskine Caldwell, William Faulkner, Henry Miller and John Steinbeck that Delpire positioned opposite Frank’s photographs. 

Above: French writer Simone de Beauvoir (1908 – 1986)

Above: American writer Erskine Caldwell (1903 – 1987)

Above: American writer William Faulkner (1897 – 1962)

Above: American writer Henry Miller (1891 – 1980)

Above: American writer John Steinbeck (1902 – 1968)

It was finally published in 1959 in the US, without the texts, by Grove Press, where it initially received substantial criticism. 

Above: Logo of Grove Press

Popular Photography derided his images as “meaningless blur, grain, muddy exposures, drunken horizons and general sloppiness“.

Though sales were also poor at first, the fact that the introduction was by the popular Kerouac helped it reach a larger audience.

Over time and through its inspiration of later artists, The Americans became a seminal work in American photography and art history.

It is the work with which Frank is most clearly identified.

Critic Sean O’Hagan, writing in The Guardian in 2014, said:

It is impossible to imagine photography’s recent past and overwhelmingly confusing present without his lingeringly pervasive presence.

Above: “Mr. and Mrs. Feiertag/Late afternoon“, Robert Frank, from the photo essay “People You Don’t See (series),” 1951

In 1961, Frank received his first individual show, entitled Robert Frank: Photographer, at the Art Institute of Chicago.

He also showed at MoMA in New York in 1962.

Above: Art Institute of Chicago, Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois, USA

The French journal Les cahiers de la photographie devoted special issues 11 and 12 in 1983 to discussion of Robert Frank as a gesture of admiration for, and complicity with, his work, also to set forth his critical capacity as an artist.

To mark the 50th anniversary of the first publication of The Americans, a new edition was released worldwide on May 30, 2008.

For this new edition, most photographs are uncropped (in contrast to the cropped versions in previous editions).

Two photographs are replaced with those of the same subject but from an alternate perspective.

Above: Robert Frank, “Covered car — Long Beach, California”, 1956

A celebratory exhibit of The Americans, titled Looking In: Robert Frank’s The Americans, was displayed in 2009 at the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA), and at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Above: National Gallery of Art, Washington DC, USA

Above: Museum of Modern Art, San Francisco, California, USA

Above: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City, New York, USA

An accompanying book, also titled Looking In: Robert Frank’s The Americans, was published, the most in-depth examination of any photography book ever, at 528 pages.

While working as a guard at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Jason Eskenazi asked other noted photographers visiting the Looking In exhibition to choose their favorite image from The Americans and explain their choice, resulting in the book, By the Glow of the Jukebox: The Americans List.

Though Frank continued to be interested in film and video, he returned to still images in the 1970s, publishing his second photographic book, The Lines of My Hand, in 1972.

This work has been described as a “visual autobiography“, and consists largely of personal photographs.

However, he largely gave up “straight” photography to instead create narratives out of constructed images and collages, incorporating words and multiple frames of images that were directly scratched and distorted on the negatives.

None of this later work has achieved an impact comparable to that of The Americans. 

In contrast to The Americans, Frank’s later images simply were not beyond the pale of accepted technique and practice by that time.

By the time The Americans was published in the US in 1959, Frank had moved away from photography to concentrate on filmmaking.

Among his films was the 1959 Pull My Daisy, which was written and narrated by Kerouac and starred Ginsberg and others from the Beat circle.

The Beats emphasized spontaneity.

The film conveyed the quality of having been thrown together or even improvised.

Pull My Daisy was accordingly praised for years as an improvisational masterpiece, until Frank’s co-director, Alfred Leslie, revealed in a 28 November 1968 article in the Village Voice that the film was actually carefully planned, rehearsed, and directed by him and Frank, who shot the film with professional lighting.

In 1960, Frank stayed in Pop artist George Segal’s basement while filming The Sin of Jesus.

Above: American artist George Segal (1924 – 2000)

Isaac Babel’s story was transformed to center on a woman working on a chicken farm in New Jersey.

Above: Russian writer Isaac Babel (1894 – 1940)

It was originally supposed to be filmed in six weeks in and around New Brunswick, Canada, but Frank ended up shooting for six months.

Above: Flag of the Canadian province of New Brunswick

Frank’s 1972 documentary of the Rolling Stones is arguably his best known film.

The film shows the Stones on tour, engaging in heavy drug use and group sex.

Frank said of the Stones:

It was great to watch them — the excitement.

But my job was after the show.

What I was photographing was a kind of boredom.

It’s so difficult being famous.

It’s a horrendous life.

Everyone wants to get something from you.” 

Mick Jagger reportedly told Frank:

It’s a good film, Robert, but if it shows in America we’ll never be allowed in the country again.

The Stones sued to prevent the film’s release.

It was disputed whether Frank as the artist or the Stones as those who hired the artist owned the copyright.

A court order restricted the film to being shown no more than five times per year, and only in the presence of Frank.

Frank’s photography also appeared on the cover of the Rolling Stones’ album Exile on Main Street.

Above: Album cover, The Rolling Stones, Exile on Main Street

Other films by Frank include: 

  • Me and My Brother
  • Keep Busy
  • Candy Mountain

Frank and Mary separated in 1969.

He remarried, to sculptor June Leaf.

Above: American artist June Leaf

In 1971, they moved to the community of Mabou, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada. 

Above: Mabou, Nova Scotia, Canada

In 1974, his daughter, Andrea, was killed in a plane crash in Tikal, Guatemala.

In 1995, in memory of his daughter he founded the Andrea Frank Foundation, which provides grants to artists.

Above: Mayan Temple 1, Tikal, Guatemala

Also around this time, his son, Pablo, was first hospitalized and diagnosed with schizophrenia.

Much of Frank’s subsequent work dealt with the impact of the loss of both his daughter and subsequently his son, who died in an Allentown, Pennsylvania hospital in 1994.

Above: Images of Allentown, Pennsylvania, USA

Well, we’re living here in Allentown
And they’re closing all the factories down
Out in Bethlehem they’re killing time
Filling out forms
Standing in line
Well, our fathers fought the Second World War
Spent their weekends on the Jersey Shore
Met our mothers in the USO
Asked them to dance
Danced with them slow
And we’re living here in Allentown

But the restlessness was handed down
And it’s getting very hard to stay

Well, we’re waiting here in Allentown
For the Pennsylvania we never found
For the promises our teachers gave
If we worked hard
If we behaved
So the graduations hang on the wall
But they never really helped us at all
No, they never taught us what was real
Iron and coke
And chromium steel
And we’re waiting here in Allentown

But they’ve taken all the coal from the ground
And the union people crawled away

Every child had a pretty good shot
To get at least as far as their old man got
But something happened on the way to that place
They threw an American flag in our face

Well, I’m living here in Allentown
And it’s hard to keep a good man down
But I won’t be getting up today

And it’s getting very hard to stay
And we’re living here in Allentown

After his move to Nova Scotia, Canada, Frank divided his time between his home there, in a former fisherman’s shack on the coast, and his Bleeker Street loft in New York.

He acquired a reputation for being a recluse (particularly since the death of Andrea), declining most interviews and public appearances.

Above: Robert Frank address, 7 Bleecker Street, Manhattan, New York City, New York, USA

He continued to accept eclectic assignments, however, such as photographing the 1984 Democratic National Convention, and directing music videos for artists such as New Order (“Run“) and Patti Smith (“Summer Cannibals“).

Above: Logo of the US Democratic Party

Above: Front cover for the single Summer Cannibals by Patti Smith

Frank produced both films and still images, and helped organize several retrospectives of his art.

His work has been represented by Pace/MacGill Gallery in New York since 1984.

In 1994, the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC presented the most comprehensive retrospective of Frank’s work to date, entitled Moving Out.

Anthony works in the grocery store
Savin’ his pennies for someday
Mama Leone left a note on the door
She said, “Sonny, move out to the country”
Workin’ too hard can give you
A heart attack (ack, ack, ack, ack, ack)
You oughta know by now (oughta know)
Who needs a house out in Hackensack
Is that what you get for your money?

It seems such a waste of time
If that’s what it’s all about
Mama, if that’s movin’ up
Then I’m movin’ out
I’m movin’ out

Sergeant O’Leary is walkin’ the beat
At night he becomes a bartender
He works at Mister Cacciatore’s down
On Sullivan Street
Across from the medical center
He’s tradin’ in his Chevy for a Cadillac (ack, ack, ack, ack, ack)
You oughta know by now
And if he can’t drive
With a broken back
At least he can polish the fenders

It seems such a waste of time
If that’s what it’s all about
Mama, if that’s movin’ up
Then I’m movin’ out
I’m movin’ out

You should never argue with a crazy mind (mi-, mi-, mi-, mi-, mi-)
You oughta know by now
You can pay Uncle Sam with the overtime
Is that all you get for your money
If that’s what you have in mind
If that’s what you’re all about
Good luck movin’ up
‘Cause I’m moving out
I’m moving out (mmm)
Ou, ou, uh huh (mmm)

I’m moving out

Frank died on 9 September 2019, at his home in Nova Scotia.

Above: Robert Frank home, Mabou, Nova Scotia

Let us return back to Switzerland and Arnold Kübler…..

Above: Arnold Kübler, editor of the Zürcher Illustrierte

(Under Kübler, in the literary section, works by Hermann Hesse and Max Frisch were included.

Above: German writer Hermann Hesse (1877 – 1962)

Above: Swiss writer Max Frisch (1911 – 1991)

In 1941, Conzett & Huber decided to sell the Zürcher Illustrierte and publish a new magazine with which they planned to promote the multi-color print they have developed.

Arnold Kübler became the editor-in-chief of the newly founded cultural magazine Du, which he ran for 16 years.

Under Kübler’s leadership, Du became a well respected cultural magazine, employing prominent photographers and focused on painters like Pablo Picasso, Joan Miro and Paul Klee.

Above: Spanish artist Joan Miro (1893 – 1983)

Above: Swiss artist Paul Klee (1879 – 1940)

Kübler was active in his positions as a cultural mediator and source of inspiration, but did not neglect his own artistic forms of expression:

In the 1960s he returned to the theatre stage with great success as a one-man cabaret.

In addition, Kübler was active in drawing and writing, which he was able to combine in several of his books, for example, in the travelogue Paris – Bâle à pied (Paris to Basel on foot) – Report and drawings of a 500 km journey on foot in 28 days (1967). 

In his Öppi novels, Kübler described autobiographical events on more than 2,000 pages.

Kübler’s works:

  • The Failed Actor (1934)
  • The Heart, the Corner, the Donkey, and Other Stories (1939)
  • Öppi from Wasenwachs: The boy without a mother (1943)
  • Öppi the student (1947)
  • Öppi and Eve (1951)
  • Velodyssey: A sporting epic (1955)
  • In Alfred Hüggenberger’s country: A winter journey with drawings (1958)
  • Mitenand, gägenenand, durenand: A picture book of how to treat your neighbor in Switzerland (1959)
  • Zurich experienced, drawn, explained (1960)
  • 48 cheerful stories (1961)
  • The dare: A Zürich booklet about Basel (1961)
  • Sites and cities: Experienced, drawn, explained (1963)
  • Öppi the fool (1964)
  • Draw, Antonio! (1966)
  • Babette, best regards: Predominantly true accounts and drawings (1967)
  • Paris – Bâle à pied: Report and drawings of a 500 km journey on foot in 28 days (1967)
  • Say & write! – A humorous cabaret autobiographical contribution to the cultural history of the city of Zürich (1969)
  • Israel: a look – Report with drawings (1970)
  • Stay: Mostly cheerful reports with drawings (1974) )

Above: Original German language version of Arnold Kübler’s The Failed Actor

(Alfred Huggenberger (1867 – 1960) (aka Dr. Hans Meyerlein) was a Swiss writer. 

Above: Alfred Huggenberger

With his numerous farces, stories and poems, both in standard German and in his Eastern Swiss dialect, he became known beyond Switzerland.

Alfred Huggenberger was born the son of a farmer in Bewangen (Canton Zürich) near the border of Canton Thurgau. 

Above: Village school with clock tower, Bertschikon bei Attikon, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

At the age of 29, he took over his parents’ farm, which burned down, due to arson, in 1904. 

Together with his wife Bertha and their daughter, Huggenberger moved to neighboring Gerlikon (Canton Thurgau) in 1908, where he took over a smaller farm that gave him more time for his literary work.

Above: St. George Chapel, Gerlikon, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Alfred Huggenberger began writing early on. 

He made his literary breakthrough beyond the Swiss border in 1907 with the book Hinterm Pflug (Behind the Plough) supported by well-known authors, such as Hermann Hesse. 

During the National Socialist era, he was used by the Nazis to propagate blood and soil literature.

(Blood and soil literature is the contrast between town and country, with the city embodying the concepts of democracy, liberalism, modernism and individualism as negative values, and the rural countryside, with its naturalness.

A sense of community and an anti-progress ideal represented the supposedly positive pole. 

Blood and soil literature differs from other streams of Nazi fiction in its glorification of country life, nature and the return to nature.)

Above: Coat of arms of the German Reich (1935 – 1945)

(I never cease to be amazed by how the Nazis could take something wonderful and convert it into something terrible.

For example, the swastika is a millennia-old sacred symbol in Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism that represents peace and good fortune, but in the West, it remains equated to Adolf Hitler’s hooked cross (Hakenkreuz).

Happily, calls to reclaim the swastika as a sacred symbol become louder.

Above: Hindu Swastika

Another example is Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche (1844 – 1900), a German philosopher, prose poet, cultural critic and philologist, whose work has exerted a profound influence on contemporary philosophy.

Nietzsche’s writing spans philosophical polemics, poetry, cultural criticism and fiction while displaying a fondness for aphorism and irony.

Prominent elements of his philosophy include:

  • his radical critique of truth in favor of perspectivism
  • a genealogical critique of religion and Christian morality and a related theory of master – slave morality
  • the aesthetic affirmation of life in response to both the “death of God” and the profound crisis of nihilism
  • the notion of Apollonian and Dionysian forces
  • a characterization of the human subject as the expression of competing wills, collectively understood as the will to power

He also developed influential concepts such as the Übermensch (Superman) and his doctrine of eternal return.

In his later work, he became increasingly preoccupied with the creative powers of the individual to overcome cultural and moral mores in pursuit of new values and aesthetic health.

His body of work touched a wide range of topics, including:

  • art
  • philology
  • history
  • music
  • religion
  • tragedy
  • culture
  • science 

After his death, Nietzsche’s sister Elisabeth became the curator and editor of his manuscripts.

She edited his unpublished writings to fit her German ultranationalist ideology, often contradicting or obfuscating Nietzsche’s stated opinions, which were explicitly opposed to antisemitism.

Through her, Nietzsche’s work became associated with fascism and Nazism.

20th-century scholars defended Nietzsche against this interpretation.

Corrected editions of his writings were soon made available.

Nietzsche’s thought enjoyed renewed popularity in the 1960s.

His ideas have since had a profound impact on 20th- and early 21st-century thinkers across philosophy — especially in schools of Continental philosophy (such as existentialism, postmodernism and post-structuralism — as well as art, literature, poetry, politics, and popular culture.

Above: Friedrich Nietzsche (1844 – 1900)

I have visited the Nietzsche Museum in Sils Maria, where the philosopher spent his final years.

I highly recommend a visit.)

Above: Nietzsche Haus Museum, Sils Maria, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland, where the German philosopher lived during the summers of 1881 and from 1883 to 1888.

(In addition to absorbing Germanic pagan myths, blood-and-soil literature played an important role in the creation of the Nazi worldview.

Nature and natural life are made the subject of a political myth by the writers of the blood-and-soil style. 

The focus is on the farmer and the farmer’s wife as symbols of the “pure” German par excellence. 

Village society appears as a Nazi microcosm. 

Nazi racism is propagated through blood and soil literature.

One of the basic tenets of the genre is the idea that “nobility” is nothing other than the peasant clan who must hold on to their indivisible, unsaleable hereditary farm for the purpose of breeding, to keep their blood pure.)

Above: German People, German Work, Kaiserdamm, Berlin, Germany (1934)

Huggenberger’s entire oeuvre comprises over 100 volumes of prose and poetry – some in Standard German, some in Swiss German – as well as numerous plays. 

Huggenberger worked in agriculture until old age. 

He died at the age of 92 in the former monastery of St. Katharinental and is buried in the cemetery in Gachnang.)

Above: Monastery of St. Katharinenthal, Diesenhofen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Now let us go back to Altnau and Hans Baumgartner…..

Above: Swiss teacher/photographer Hans Baumgartner

Baumgartner’s first photo report appeared in 1935.

Baumgartner then published in magazines, such as Camera, Du, Der Schweizer Spiegel (the Swiss Mirror), Die Schweiz (Switzerland) and Föhn (a type of dry, relatively warm, downslope wind that occurs in the lee (downwind side) of a mountain range – what Canadians call a chinook). 

The Neue Zürcher Zeitung (New Zurich newspaper) and the Thurgauer Zeitung also published his pictures. 

His photo books (from 1941) deal primarily with themes from his home canton of Thurgau. 

Above: Exercise in the snow, Hans Baumgartner photograph

In 1937, he made the acquaintance of the painter Adolf Dietrich, whom he subsequently portrayed several times.

Above: Swiss artist Adolf Dietrich

(Adolf Dietrich (1877 – 1957) was a Swiss painter.

Dietrich was born in a small, modest house in Berlingen, in Canton Thurgau, the 7th child of Heinrich Dietrich and Dorothea (née Kern). 

Above: Adolf Dietrich Haus, Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Even as a small boy he collected a lot and tried to imitate and draw everything. 

From 1885 to 1893 he attended primary school. 

He was a good and diligent student. 

His teacher recognized his talent for drawing and encouraged it. 

He recommended to his parents that their son should do an apprenticeship as a lithographer. 

But the family was poor and Adolf had to learn a trade that would earn him more. 

So he started to work in a jersey factory in Berlingen. 

On Sundays he painted and drew passionately. 

From 1896 to 1910 he worked at home as a machine knitter.

 Above: Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Nature with its mysteries and wonders fascinated him more and more. 

He began a first sketchbook and a dozen animal watercolours followed

In 1902, Dietrich became friends with Friedrich Neeser, a baker’s apprentice who also painted. 

They spent Sundays together in nature. 

Neeser encouraged the serious and somewhat anxious Adolf not to give up painting.

Above: Waldrand, Adolf Dietrich (1918)

In 1903, Dietrich drew his first self-portrait in charcoal. 

Above: Adolf Dietrich

His brother, who lived in Ludwigshafen am Rhein, commissioned him to paint a portrait of his parents. 

Above: Ludwigshafen am Rhein, Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany

That same year his mother died. 

From then on, Dietrich lived alone with his father in a small house in Berlingen. 

Above: Dorothea and Heinrich Dietrich

Working from home on the knitting machine helped to cope with the daily worries of existence. 

For technical reasons, however, he soon gave up working from home and earned his living as a forest worker. 

In 1913, he exhibited his paintings for the first time in Konstanz in the Wessenberghaus Museum. 

Above: Wessenberg Haus, Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

This was followed by further exhibitions in various galleries in Germany.

In 1918 his father died. 

This loss was difficult for him. 

Above: Moonlight on the Bodensee, Adolf Dietrich

Dietrich was discovered by the art dealer Herbert Tannenbaum, which enabled Dietrich to exhibit at various locations in Germany. 

Tannenbaum endeavored to make Dietrich known in Switzerland and soon obtained permission for exhibitions in Zürich and Schaffhausen. 

From 1924, Dietrich was able to make a living from his painting.

In 1937, Adolf Dietrich met Hans Baumgartner, who portrayed him several times for the magazine Du, thus helped him to achieve his international breakthrough.  

As a result, Dietrich was able to take part in exhibitions in Paris, London and New York.

It was not until 1941 that his home canton of Thurgau acquired a picture of his. 

From 1942, the demand for his pictures became so great that he copied his own pictures and promised the same picture to several people at the same time. 

He painted until his death. 

He died in his house in Berlingen. 

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

The lawyer Hans Buck, the author of Adolf Dietrich as a draftsman, made sure that Dietrich wrote a will and in it foresightedly thought of a future Thurgau art museum.

Adolf Dietrich had been fascinated by nature and animals since his childhood. 

He owned many stuffed animals that he drew. 

He often drew his garden or the Bodensee.

He painted portraits and various still life works.

Adolf Dietrich had no academic training as a painter. 

He always drew very precisely, so his pictures are very realistic. 

Above: Balbo lying on the meadow, Adolf Dietrich, 1955

Above: Fox in the forest, Adolf Dietrich

At the beginning Adolf Dietrich made pencil drawings in his sketchbooks on his hikes, 18 are still preserved today. 

Around 1929 he began taking black-and-white photographs, leaving behind several thousand.

He never painted in nature, but only ever made a sketch, which he then painted in color at home from memory. 

He never used an easel and always painted his pictures on the table in his living room, often in poor light. 

His techniques were gouache and watercolour painting, charcoal drawing, oil painting and pencil sketches.

In the beginning he painted on cardboard, later on wood, but only rarely on canvas. 

For this reason quite a lot of his pictures are in a sensitive condition.

The Museum is in his former home in Berlingen and is worth a visit.)

Above: Inside Adolf Dietrich Haus Museum, Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

(The Nazis completed destroyed the worthiness of the given name Adolf, which originally meant “noble wolf“.

Above: Seal of King Adolf of Nassau (1255 – 1298)

In both Protestant Germany (because of Swedish King Gustav Adolf and German writer Adolph von Knigge) and Catholic Germany (because of German priest/philosopher Adolph Kolping), Adolf enjoyed some popularity. 

Above: Swedish King Gustav Adolf (1594 – 1632)

Above: German writer Adolphe von Knigge (1752 – 1796)

Above: Adolph Kolping (1813 – 1865)

In 1890, the name was in 13th place on the popularity scale of all male first names in Germany.  

But since the beginning of the 20th century, its frequency as a first name has been decreasing. 

After an upswing from 1933, which lasted until 1942, the use of the name collapsed – in correlation with Adolf Hitler’s popularity.

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

 

Since the early 1950s, the first name Adolf has rarely been given to newborns in German-speaking countries.

The name is heavily burdened by the dictator Adolf Hitler and other Nazis, such as Adolf Eichmann (who orchestrated the Holocaust).

Above: Adolf Eichmann (1906 – 1962)

The first name is given about 15 times a year in Germany. 

The competent registry office decides on the admissibility in individual cases, in particular on the basis of the best interests of the child. 

In cases of doubt, they can consult the Onomastics Center at the University of Leipzig.

Above: Logo of the University of Leipzig, Saxony, Germany

The name was also popular in Sweden, where several kings bore the name. 

However, it has not been in the top ten most popular first names in any decade since the 1920s. 

In 2015, there were only around 2,600 bearers of this name in Sweden. 

Since at least 1998, fewer than ten newborn boys have been given this name each year. 

Above: Flag of Sweden

In the 2018 film Der Vorname (just like in the original 2012 French film Le Prénom), the name is the catalyst for a consequential dispute among the antagonists.

In it, an expectant father says with deadly seriousness that he will name his son Adolf

But he only wants to provoke his brother-in-law in order to give him a tit-for-tat for his constant mockery.)

Baumgartner also photographed his trips to Paris and Italy, the Balkans, southern France, North Africa and the Sahara, Croatia and the Dalmatian Coast, Burgundy, Spain and Portugal, Sweden and Finland, the US, Hungary, Belgium and Germany. 

Above: Sand dunes, Sahara Desert, Algeria

Above: Flag of Croatia

Above: Flag of Portugal

Above: Flag of Hungary

On his world trip by ship in 1963, he reached Asia (Bombay/Mumbai, Colombo, Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City, Hong Kong, Yokohama) and the American continent (Mexico and the US). 

Above: Mumbai, India

Above: Parliament Buildings, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Above: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Above: Hong Kong, China

Above: Yokohama, Japan

Stays at spas took him to Davos.

Above: Images of Davos, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

Hans Baumgartner died in Frauenfeld in 1996. 

Above: Frauenfeld, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The Swiss Foundation for Photography manages his estate of around 120,000 photographs.

It cannot be denied that Switzerland, despite its diminutive size (as compared to Canada or Turkey), is replete with talented artists.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Above: Flag of Canada

Above: Flag of Turkey

All of the above-mentioned Swiss artists, save Dietrich, travelled the world.

Dietrich’s world surrounded him.

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

I mention Baumgartner, because I think his photography abandoned the sphere of technical experimentation, the abstract and the avant-garde.

Photography became more wholesome, concentrating on the poetry of real things, the universal language of life.

Baumgartner was a teacher but by following his passions he succeeded in creating photos that tell a narrative, such as in Italy, a stolen image of lovers resting beside their discarded bicycles amongst long summer grass in an olive grove, or in Java, a boy stretches balletically across the pavement as he plays marbles.

Above: Hans Baumgartner

Kübler tried to be a geologist, then a sculptor, found success as an actor, was disfigured and still managed to achieve success as an artist in the field of literature.

Kübler believed in the role that photography can play upon the people who view it.

Above: Arnold Kübler

Senn showed that photography can be of a humanist nature.

Above: Paul Senn

Bischof sought to capture the true face of the world, the essence of real life.

Above: Werner Bischof

Tuggener showed that there was poetry in photography.

Above: Jakob Tuggener

Dieter’s guide to creation was Creation itself.

Above: Flowers by the Window with Butterflies, Adolf Dietrich

I believe that once Frank and Huggenberger moved on from their beloved Switzerland they gained their reputations, but lost themselves and the beautiful spirit that is Switzerland that had nurtured them.

Above: Swiss International Air Lines logo

I have only mentioned a few famous Swiss photographers but there are many more worthy of mention, such as:

Fred Boissonnas (1858 – 1946) was a Swiss photographer from Geneva.

Above: Fred Boissonnas

His work is considered crucial for the development of photography in Greece, and its use in favourably publicising the country’s expansionist ambitions, during the early 20th century.

Boissonnas constitutes a central figure in the transition from 19th century approaches to a more contemporary photography of antiquities.

Between 1903 and 1933 Boissonnas made several trips to Greece where he systematically documented Greece in landscape photographs, taken in all corners of the country, reflect its continuity from ancient times to the present day.

On one Greek expedition with compatriot art historian Daniel Baud-Bovy (1870 – 1958), Boissonnas made the first recorded modern-era ascent of Mount Olympus on 2 August 1913, aided by a hunter of wild goats.

Above: Mount Olympus, Greece

In total, Boissonnas published 14 photo albums dedicated to Greece, many of which belong to the thematic series entitled L’image de la Grece (The Image of Greece), his imagery contributing decisively to the identity of Greece in Europe, its promotion as a tourist destination but also its political situation.

His photographs of archaeological sites form 20% of his total Greek series.

He visited the Acropolis, Delphi, Olympia, Dodoni, Knossos, Delos, and many other sites, providing an extensive iconographic panorama of classical Greek antiquities.

Above: The Acropolis, Athens, Greece

Above: Delphi, Greece

Above: Olympia, Greece

Above: Dodoni, Greece

Above: Knossos, Crete

Above: Delos, Greece

Interested not only in documenting a site, Boissonnas also aimed to interpret the Greek landscape in combining classical antiquity with the provincial Greek folklore through associations of natural and cultural elements carefully composed and in the best ambient light.

His last photo album about Greece Following the ship of Ulysses (1933) sought to reconstruct the epic and, in a symbolic way, the dissemination of Greek culture throughout Europe. 

The photographs were accompanied by excerpts from Homer’s Odyssey.

  • Fred Mayer – One of Switzerland’s most influential photographers, Mayer travelled to Indonesia, where he shot a documentation about the former President Sukarno.

Above: Ilse and Fred Mayer

Above: Sukarno ( Koesno Sosrodihardjo)(1901 – 1970)(Indonesian President: 1945 – 1967)

His other works include pictures of King Hussein of Jordan and portfolios from all around the world, from the Vatican to Bali.

Above: Hussein bin Talal (1935 – 1999) (King of Jordan: 1952 – 1999)

Above: Flag of Vatican City

Above: Flag of Bali, Indonesia

He further published books about various countries, the Russian orthodox church, Chakkar Polo, Japanese theatre and the Chinese Opera.

Above: Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, Moscow, Russia

Above: Noh theatre, Japan

Above: Chinese National Opera House, Beijing, China

In 2011, Mayer published Homage to Hermann Hesse and his Siddhartha, based on the novel Siddhartha by the German author Hermann Hesse.

  • René Groebli – His first small folio Magie der Schiene (Rail magic) comprising 16 photographs (with front and back cover) was also shot in 1949 and self-published later the same year.

Above: René Groebli

It captures the ‘magic’ of steam train travel during the late 1940s.

Photographed in and around Paris, as well as locations in Switzerland, the often motion-blurred and grainy images convey the energy of steam.

The small book, Das Auge der Liebe (The Eye of Love), though respected for its design and photography, caused some controversy, but also brought Groebli attention.

The term “love” in the title being considered by students to be too sentimental given the obvious sexual connotations.

Where the photographer’s intention was for a romantic effect, the editor admitted that the narrative was sexualized.

In the leading periodical Neue Zürcher Zeitung, editor Edwin Arnet objected to the emphasis on nudity. 

Groebli sequenced his photographs to tell the story of a woman meeting a man in a cheap hotel.

The last photograph shows the woman’s hand with a wedding ring on her ring finger holding an almost finished post-coitus cigarette.

In the perception of audiences of the era, the implication was that the woman had to be either an ‘easy woman’, a prostitute, or an unfaithful wife.

However the US Camera Annual review of the work in 1955 pronounced it “a tender photo essay on a photographer’s love for a woman”.

  • René Robert (1936 – 2022) – In the mid-1960s, he moved to Paris, where he met a Swedish dancer who introduced him to the flamenco.

Above: René Robert

In 1967, he became one of the great portrait photographers.

He photographed personalities such as Spanish virtuoso flamenco guitarist Paco de Lucia (1947 – 2014), Spanish flamenco dancers Israel Galván and Rocio Molina Cruz in black-and-white.

Above: Paco de Lucia

Above: Israel Galván

Above: Rocio Molina Cruz

On the evening of 19 January 2022, Robert was walking through the Place de la République in Paris when he suddenly had a heart attack and collapsed on the sidewalk on rue de Turbigo.

Despite Robert lying motionless and on the pavement for nine hours, no one stopped to assist him or called for help, until eventually a homeless person called the emergency services.

Robert died of hypothermia on 20 January 2022, at the age of 85.

His death was subsequently the subject of media debate around public indifference to street people.

Above: Monument to the Glory of France, Place de la Republique, Paris, France

  • Ella Maillart (1903 – 1997) – From the 1930s onwards, she spent years exploring Muslim republics of the USSR, as well as other parts of Asia, and published a rich series of books which, just as her photographs, are today considered valuable historical testimonies.

Above: Ella Maillart (1903 – 1997)

Her early books were written in French, but later she began to write in English. 

Turkestan Solo describes a journey in 1932 in Soviet Turkestan.

Above: (in green) Former location of Soviet Central Asia / Russian Turkestan

Photos from this journey are now displayed in the Ella Maillart Wing of the Karakol Historical Museum, Kyrgyzstan.

Above: Flag of Kyrgyzstan

In 1934, the French daily Le Petit Parisien (1876 – 1944) sent her to Manchuria to report on the situation under the Japanese occupation.

Above: Map of Manchuria – From left to right: Outer Manchuria / Inner Manchuria / Northern Manchuria

Above: Images of the Second Sino-Japanese War / War of Chinese Resistance (1937 – 1945)

It was there that she met Peter Fleming (1907 – 1971), a well-known writer and correspondent of The Times, with whom she would team up to cross China from Peking (Beijing) to Srinagar (3,500 miles), much of the route being through hostile desert regions and steep Himalayan passes.

Above: English writer Peter Fleming (elder brother of James Bond creator Ian Fleming)

Above: Flag of China

Above: Beijing, China

Above: Srinagar, India

The journey started in February 1935 and took seven months to complete, involving travel by train, on lorries, on foot, horse and camelback.

Their objective was to ascertain what was happening in Xinjiang (Chinese Turkestan) where the Kumul Rebellion (1931 – 1934) had just ended.

Above: (in red) Location of Xinjiang (Chinese Turkestan)

Above: Turkic conscripts of the 36th Division near Kumul – They are carrying Kuomintaung (Chinese Nationalist Party)(blue sky with a white sun) flags.

Above: Emblem of the Kuomintang

Maillart and Fleming met the Hui (Chinese Muslim) forces of General Ma Hushan.

Above: Ma Hushan (1910 – 1954)

Ella Maillart later recorded this trek in her book Forbidden Journey, while Peter Fleming’s parallel account is found in his News from Tartary.

In 1937 Maillart returned to Asia for Le Petit Parisien to report on Afghanistan, Iran and Turkey.

Above: Ella Maillert, Meshid, Iran, 1939

In 1939 she undertook a trip from Geneva to Kabul by car, in the company of the Swiss writer, Annemarie Schwarzenbach. 

The Cruel Way is the title of Maillart’s book about this experience, cut short by the outbreak of the Second World War.

Above: Genève (Geneva), Switzerland

Above: Kabul, Afghanistan

Above: Annemarie Schwarzenbach and Ella Maillert

She spent the war years at Tiruyannamalai in southern India, learning from different teachers about Advaita Vedanta, one of the schools of Hindu philosophy.

Above: Images of Tiruvannamalai, India

On her return to Switzerland in 1945, she lived in Geneva and at Chandolin, a mountain village in the Swiss Alps.

Above: Chandolin, Canton Valais, Switzerland

  • Annemarie Schwarzenbach (1908 – 1942) was a Swiss writer, journalist and photographer.

Above: Annemarie Schwarzenbach

Her bisexual mother brought her up in a masculine style, and her androgynous image suited the bohemian Berlin society of the time, in which she indulged enthusiastically.

Her anti-Fascist campaigning forced her into exile, where she became close to the family of novelist Thomas Mann.

Above: German novelist Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

She would live much of her life abroad as a photojournalist, embarking on many lesbian relationships, and experiencing a growing morphine addiction.

In America, the young Carson McCullers (1917 – 1967) was infatuated with Schwarzenbach, to whom she dedicated Reflections in a Golden Eye.

Above: American writer Carson McCullers (1917 – 1967)

Schwarzenbach reported on the early events of World War II.

On 7 September 1942 in the Engadin, she fell from her bicycle and sustained a serious head injury.

Following a mistaken diagnosis in the Sils clinic where she was treated, she died on 15 November.

Above: Silssee (Lake of Sils), Engadin Valley, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

There always remains a question in my mind as I travel and discover what personalities places have fostered:

Did these places make them the people they became or would they have become what they were regardless of the environment which spawned them?

Had René Robert not had his heart attack in Paris would he have continued to live on?

Why did Maillart and Schwarzenbach, who had seen so much of the world, decide to return to their homeland of Switzerland – a nation famous for both its international diplomacy but insular fortress mentality?

The art that all these people produced is inspirational.

I love the way words and pictures can work together on a page or a screen.

When wise words have visuals added to them, they seem to travel further, like paper airplanes catching an updraught.

I ask myself questions as I once again visualize the quiet beauty of the Altnau of my memories:

How alike to these Swiss artists in any way might I be, might had I become, had I grown up here?

Would I have become a teacher much like Baumgarten, he who travelled the world but remained devoted to his classroom and his Canton and his country?

Or is it my fate to travel the world and die neglected far from home like René Robert or Werner Bischof?

Or would I have simply faded into the scene as beautiful and ignored as Altnau’s apple blossoms in spring?

The other thoughts that possess me as I type these words is the notion that not only are we products of the places we have been but we are as well artifacts of the age we live in.

Could this modern age of social media, audiovisual developments and the Internet have manifested the molds that made women and men like Baumgartner and Bischof, Senn and Schwarzenbach, Mayer and Maillart?

Words and photos have evolved into sound bites and film.

Books are buried by the cacophony of commentary crowding our consciousness continually by the inane insane bombardment of unfiltered information crashing upon us, drowning us in its mindless distraction.

There is so much reality that life feels unreal.

Technology has greatly improved the lives of many people around the world.

The use of the Internet, in particular, has become so widespread in so many countries that our daily existence is now unimaginable without it.

This is not necessarily a positive development.

When social media first started to become popular, it was an innocent extension of the standard types of interactions between friends and new acquaintances.

These days, however, there are two noticeable extremes, both negative:

One is where the platform is used as a substitute for human-to-human interaction.

The second is where it is employed as a way to bully or aggressively intimidate other people.

And I feel there is a third danger lurking in the corridor….

Above: Facebook logo

Above: Instagram logo

Above: WhatsApp logo

Above: Snapchat logo

For hundreds of years, the more forward-thinking elements of science and technology have stoked imaginations in the world of entertainment.

For example, a huge number of sci-fi movies were produced in the 20th century, a period during which space exploration became first a possibility, then a reality.

Many such films depict situations in which one character (in full bodily form) interacts with a 3-D holographic image of another.

Various aspects of society could be going through enormous changes as virtual reality (VR) technology moves towards fully operational and interactive implementation of its potential.

To what extent VR establishes itself as an integral part of our lives and how quickly it is likely to move from niche technology to common usage throughout society remains a matter of deliberation.

VR may well have become sufficiently developed for it to form an essential part of life by the mid-21st century, if not sooner.

Over 40 million people currently own VR headsets.

This figure is expected to double over the next three years.

By 2025, we may well have reached the point at which 200 million users will own a VR viewing device, a head-mounted display (HMD), more commonly known as a VR headset.

We may all prefer to live in a virtual reality that creates an illusion of a reality more desirable than real life itself.

Oh, the seduction promised by this brave new world!

Educators will be presented with a vast array of new opportunities through which to pass on knowledge.

Within the next ten years teachers may become able to move completely away from the course book or flat screen – even the classroom itself – and into an immersive world of instruction and learning.

By way of example, history students could be taken into the epicentre of the world’s greatest battles and conflicts, experiencing and understanding the machinations of victory first-hand.

Medical students may be provided with the opportunity to travel through the human body as if they were themselves the size of a blood cell, building their comprehension of how veins and arteries or nervous systems are interconnected.

Music students will be able to watch a VR orchestra perform their new composition in a venue of their choice, whether that be the local concert hall or even the Sydney Opera House.

Above: Sydney Opera House, Sydney, Australia

A student of Mandarin should one day be able to walk the streets of Beijing, conversing with the local native speakers and practising the regional pronunciation.

Similarly, by the year 2050, the concept of travel may have undergone a profound transformation.

Parts of the world currently inaccessible to most people, whether because the expense of flying is too great or because those places are too remote to be easily reached, will become open to visitors in the form of exact VR replicas of the original cities, rainforests, beaches, and so on.

Not only is this bound to please avid “travellers“, it could also appease the concerned environmentalist.

The number of commercial flight operators each day might well decrease as people opt for VR vacations.

Perhaps one day VR will be replaced by memory implants of having travelled as suggested by Philip K. Dick’s short story “We can remember it for you wholesale“, which was the inspiration for the 1990 film Total Recall and its 2012 remake.

Above: Philip K. Dick (1928 – 1982)

Perhaps in the future, widespread use of remotely controlled androids will enable everyone to live in idealized forms from the safety of their homes, as suggested by Robert Venditti’s comic book series The Surrogates, which became the 2009 sci-fi film Surrogates.

Despite its potential to change life as we know it today, it may even be possible that VR will ultimately fail to catch on in common usage, that HMDs will be consigned to history’s obsolescence in the same way as compact discs (CDs), mini disc players, the Walkman, cassette players, vinyl record players and personal digital assistants (PDAs).

After all, even the technology that today seems improbable will at some point become outdated.

Despite the optimism in some quarters, genuine interaction with holograms in the real world is still as far from becoming a reality as ever, so if the hologram cannot come to Muhammad then Muhammad must enter the world of the hologram.

Above: A compact disc

Above: Mini disc player

Above: Sony Walkman

Above: Cassette player

Above: Vinyl record player

Above: Personal digital assistant

However, what is currently available has begun to be used for entertainment purposes in a wide range of industries.

The music industry is one.

The music industry has sought to take advantage of holographic technology since its infancy.

There have been numerous examples – concerts and events – during which audiences have been able to watch modern vocalists sharing the stage with holographic images of performers who departed this world some time ago.

In fact, the technology has been developed to such an advanced level that it is almost possible to stage an entire concert performed by dead rock stars.

Great actors could also be resurrected.

Above: Hologram version of Buddy Holly (1936 – 1959)

Critics have argued that this is exploitative of both audiences and musicians, putting on stage an artist who has no way of refusing to be there.

This has led some people inside the music industry to predict a future of bands touring without needing to leave the rehearsal studio.

That being said, I think it would be rather unlikely for any fan to buy a ticket to watch their favourite artists, knowing that the performances they have paid to see is not technically a live show and that the musicians they admire do not wish to be present in the same room as they are.

Real-time 3-D representations of artists are becoming ever more accurate, but have less appeal for live audiences than authentic performances do.

As is often the case, the will to create something new and exciting for consumers of entertainment is hindered by the technology currently available to it.

So, if the real live artist cannot come to a concert, then perhaps it is more desirable to enter a virtual reality that brings the artist’s simulation to you.

Above: Holographic version of Roy Orbison (1936 – 1988)

All of this bothers me deeply.

For in this quest for speed, for distraction, for entertainment, for ease and comfort, we have forgotten to give ourselves the time to think and feel, which is crucial to our very existence.

Modern technology of the moment tends to pull us into life patterns that gradually degrade the ways in which each of us exists as an individual.

By immersing ourselves in VR or holographic illusion, to allow ourselves to become slaves to the machines that were designed to serve us, deemphasizes our value as individuals and the intrinsic value of an individual’s unique internal experience and creativity.

As technology gets “better and better“, as civilization becomes more and more digital, we are hurting ourselves.

The more dependent we become upon our technology, the more we lose the ability to self-determine, the more we lose our freedom.

The more we seek to become like everyone else, the more we lose ourselves.

The reality is that until we become someone, we are not ready to share our lives with someone else.

Widespread impersonal communication has demeaned interpersonal interaction.

The most important thing about technology is how it changes people.

For instance, Stanford University research demonstrated that changing the height of one’s avatar in immersive VR transforms self-esteem and social self-perception.

Technologies have become extensions of ourselves.

Different media designs stimulate different potentials in human nature.

We should not seek to make the pack mentality as efficient as possible.

We should instead seek to inspire the phenomenon of individual intelligence.

Algorithms may find correlations between what you say online and your purchases, your romantic adventures, your debts….

But a person is not a pat formula.

Being human is a quest, a mystery, a leap of faith.

Technology is meant to be an extension of our being, not a replacement of it.

I find myself thinking of the 2013 film The Congress and the 1971 sci-fi novel that inspired it – Stanislaw Lem’s The Futurological Congress.

Actress Robin Wright’s longtime agent Al (Harvey Keitel) takes her to meet Jeff Green (Danny Huston), CEO of film production company Miramount Studios, who offers to buy her likeness and digitize her into a computer-animated version of herself.

Realizing she may be unable to find future work with the emergence of this new technology, she agrees to sell the film rights to her digital image to Miramount in exchange for a hefty sum of money.

She is forced to promise never to act again.

After her body is digitally scanned, the studio will be able to make films starring her, using only computer-generated characters.

Since then, Robin’s virtual persona has become the star of a popular sci-fi action film franchise.

Twenty years later, as her contract is about to expire, Robin travels to Abrahama City, where she will speak at Miramount’s entertainment Futurological Conference in the Hotel Miramount Nagasaki, and also to renew her now-expired contract.

Abrahama City is an animated surreal Utopia that is created from figments of people’s imaginations, where anyone can become an animated avatar of themselves, but are required to use hallucinogenic drugs that allow them to enter a mutable illusionary state.

They can become anyone or anything they want to be.

Above: Scene from The Congress

While discussing her new contract, Robin learns that the studio has developed a new technology that will allow anyone to devour her or transform themselves into her.

She agrees to the deal, but has a crisis of conscience and does not believe anyone should be turned into a product.

Asking to speak to the public at the Congress, she publicly voices her contrary views, upsetting the hosts, judges and the councils of the Congress, who are unimpressed with her disapproval.

Above: Scene from The Congress

Shortly afterwards, the Congress is interrupted by an attack of a group of rebel terrorists and protesters ideologically opposed to the technology industry.

The head of the Congress is assassinated.

Returning to the unanimated real world, Robin finds herself in a dystopian environment.

The inhabitants are severely dysfunctional.

Most people have left the real world for an existence in the animated unreal world.

Above: Scene from The Congress

I am also reminded of Fahrenheit 451 and Brave New World.

Above: Movie poster for the 1966 film Fahrenheit 451

Above: Movie poster for 1980 film Brave New World

Fahrenheit 451 presents an American society where books have been personified, outlawed and burnt when found.

Ray Bradbury wrote the book as a commentary on how mass media reduces interest in reading literature, citing political correctness as the real enemy that seeks to control thought and freedom of speech.

Above: Ray Bradbury (1920 – 2012)

Between 1947 and 1948, Bradbury wrote “Bright Phoenix“, a short story about a librarian who confronts a “Chief Censor“, who burns books.

An encounter Bradbury had in 1949 with the police inspired him to write the short story “The Pedestrian” in 1951.

In “The Pedestrian“, a man going for a nighttime walk in his neighborhood is harassed and detained by the police.

In the society of “The Pedestrian“, citizens are expected to watch television as a leisurely activity, a detail that would be included in Fahrenheit 451.

The story features Leonard Mead, a citizen of a television-centered world in November 2053.

In the city the sidewalks have fallen into decay. Mead enjoys walking through the city at night, something which no one else does.

In ten years of walking by night or day, for thousands of miles, he had never met another person walking, not one in all that time.”

On one of his usual walks, he encounters a police car, which is robotic.

It is the only police unit in a city of three million as the purpose of law enforcement has disappeared with everyone watching television at night.

When asked about his profession Mead tells the car that he is a writer, but the car does not understand since no one buys books or magazines in the television-dominated society.

The police car, which is revealed to have no occupants, cannot understand why Mead would be out walking for no reason.

So it decides to take him to the Psychiatric Center for Research on Regressive Tendencies.

As the car passes through his neighborhood, Mead, locked in the confines of the back seat says, “That’s my house.”, as he points to a warm and bright house with all its lights on, unlike all the other houses.

There is no reply.

The story concludes.

The address of the main character, Leonard Mead, happens to be the address of the house in which Bradbury grew up.

This has caused speculation that this short story is actually referring to himself, or is in some related way a message to his home town of Waukegan, Illinois.

Above: Downtown Waukegan, Illinois, USA

The 60th anniversary of Fahrenheit 451 contains the short piece “The Story of Fahrenheit 451” by Jonathan R. Eller.

In it, Eller writes that Bradbury’s inspiration for the story came when he was walking down Wilshire Boulevard in Los Angeles with a friend in late 1949.

On their walk, a police cruiser pulled up and asked what they were doing.

Bradbury answered, “Well, we’re putting one foot in front of the other.

The policemen did not appreciate Ray’s joke and became suspicious of Bradbury and his friend for walking in an area where there were no pedestrians.

Inspired by this experience, he wrote “The Pedestrian“.

The short novella that would later evolve into Fahrenheit 451.

Above: “The Miracle Mile“, Wiltshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, California, USA – this stretch of Wilshire near the La Brea Tar Pits was named “Miracle Mile” for its improbable rise to prominence

What’s the matter with the clothes I’m wearing?
“Can’t you tell that your tie’s too wide?”
Maybe I should buy some old tab collars?
“Welcome back to the age of jive
Where have you been hidin’ out lately, honey?
You can’t dress trashy till you spend a lot of money”
Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the car I’m driving?
“Can’t you tell that it’s out of style?”
Should I get a set of white wall tires?
“Are you gonna cruise the Miracle Mile?
Nowadays you can’t be too sentimental
Your best bet’s a true baby blue Continental”
Hot funk, cool punk, even if it’s old junk
It’s still rock and roll to me

Oh, it doesn’t matter what they say in the papers
‘Cause it’s always been the same old scene
There’s a new band in town
But you can’t get the sound from a story in a magazine…
Aimed at your average teen

How about a pair of pink sidewinders
And a bright orange pair of pants?
“You could really be a Beau Brummell baby
If you just give it half a chance
Don’t waste your money on a new set of speakers,
You get more mileage from a cheap pair of sneakers”
Next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the crowd I’m seeing?
“Don’t you know that they’re out of touch?”
Should I try to be a straight ‘A’ student?
“If you are then you think too much
Don’t you know about the new fashion honey?
All you need are looks and a whole lotta money”
It’s the next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock and roll to me

Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

In Fahrenheit 451, Leonard’s character can be considered similar to that of Clarisse McClellan‘s uncle, who tells of a similar story repeated by her niece to Montag.

The Pedestrian” was adapted for radio and broadcast on the CBC (Canadian Broadcasting Corporation) program Theatre 10:30 (1968 – 1971).

Above: Corporate flag of the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (CBC)

The story was made into an episode of The Ray Bradbury Theatre, starring David Ogden Stiers as Leonard Mead.

Above: David Ogden Stiers (as Leonard Mead) (1942 – 2018)

Elements of both “Bright Phoenix” and “The Pedestrian” would be combined into “The Fireman“, a novella published in 1951.

Bradbury was urged to make “The Fireman” into a full novel. 

Simple pleasures and interests make one an outcast.

Bradbury recounts a history of how books lost their value as people began to embrace new media, sports, and an ever-quickening pace of life.

Books were ruthlessly abridged or degraded to accommodate shorter attention spans.

Books were condemned as sources of confusing and distressing thoughts that only complicated people’s lives.

In Aldous Huxley’s Brave New World, society’s methods of keeping its citizens peaceful is with the constant consumption of a soothing, happiness-producing drug, soma.

I am also reminded of the 2002 American dystopian sci-fi film Equilibrium:

Libria, a totalitarian city-state established by survivors of World War III, blames human emotion as the cause for the war.

Any activity or object that stimulates emotion is strictly forbidden.

Those in violation are labelled “Sense Offenders” and sentenced to death.

The population is forced to take a daily injection of “Prozium II” to suppress emotion.

Libria is governed by the Tetragrammaton Council, led by “Father“, who communicates propaganda through giant video screens throughout the city.

Above: Flag of Libria: The four Ts on the flag represent the Tetragrammaton Council.

At the pinnacle of law enforcement are the Grammaton Clerics, trained in the martial art of gun kata.

Clerics frequently raid homes to search for and destroy illegal materials – art, literature and music – executing violators on the spot.

A resistance movement, known as the “Underground“, emerges to topple Father and the Tetragrammaton Council.

The film follows John Preston (Christian Bale), an enforcement officer in a future in which feelings and artistic expression are outlawed and citizens take daily injections of powerful psychoactive drugs to suppress their emotions.

After accidentally missing a dose, Preston begins to experience emotions, which makes him question his morality and moderate his actions while attempting to remain undetected by the suspicious society in which he lives.

Ultimately, he aids the resistance movement using advanced martial arts, which he was taught by the regime he is helping to overthrow.

Above: Christian Bale (as John Preston), Equilibrium

Insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space and will to walk and think, to see and imagine, and against all that these acts embody.

We live in an age of fear of the time in-between, the time it takes to get from here to there, moments of meandering, of rushing and running.

The time in-between has been deplored as a waste, requiring reduction, silence silenced by earphones playing music, the serendipity of the scene that surrounds us is ignored by eyes downcast drawn to mobile phones.

The very ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the “useless“, is evaporating, as has appreciation of the outside – anything outside the familiar.

Mobile phones are our buffer against solitude, silence and encounters with the unknown.

But it is only in solitude and silence can we learn to love our own company and can hear our own mind.

It is encounters with the unknown through which we can learn to live and discover the myriad possibilities of existence.

Dependency on our devices is not freedom.

Dependency is merely distraction from our fears of the unknown.

Distraction ultimately leads to destruction of self.

What we’re living in?
Lemme tell ya

Yeah, it’s a wonder man can eat at all
When things are big that should be small
Who can tell what magic spells we’ll be doing for us

And I’m giving all my love to this world
Only to be told
I can’t see, I can’t breathe
No more will we be

And nothing’s gonna change the way we live
‘Cause we can always take, but never give
And now that things are changing for the worse, see
Whoa, it’s a crazy world we’re living in
And I just can’t see that half of us immersed in sin
Is all we have to give these

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground

And I’m thinking what a mess we’re in
Hard to know where to begin
If I could slip the sickly ties that earthly man has made
And now every mother can choose the color
Of her child, that’s not nature’s way

Well, that’s what they said yesterday
There’s nothing left to do, but pray
I think it’s time to find a new religion

Whoa, it’s so insane
To synthesize another strain
There’s something in these futures
That we have to be told

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground, wow

Now there is no sound
If we all live underground
And now it’s virtual insanity
Forget your virtual reality

Oh, there’s nothing so bad
As a manmade man
Oh, yeah, I know, yeah (take it to the dance floor)

I know I can’t go on

Of this virtual insanity we’re living in
Has got to change, yeah
Things will never be the same
And I can’t go on
Where we’re living in
Oh, oh, virtual insanity

Oh, this world
He’s got to change
‘Cause I just
I just can’t keep going on in this virtual, virtual insanity
That we’re living in, that we’re living in
And that virtual insanity is what is, yeah

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground, oh

Futures made of, now, virtual insanity
Now we all, we seem to be governed by a love
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
And now there is no sound, for we all live underground
Yes, we do, oh

Now this life that we live in
(Virtual insanity) it’s all going wrong
Out of the window (living in)
Do you know there is nothing worse than (virtual insanity)

A manmade man
(Virtual insanity) There’s nothing worse than
(Living in) a foolish man
(Virtual insanity) Hey!

Virtual insanity is what we’re living in, yeah
Well… It’s alright

Altnau is a small town, full of life and light and love, but one must walk its streets and stroll along its shore and meander through its apple orchards and linger on its jetty to capture its universal language.

Its past and the teacher-photographer who emerged from it and those of his ilk whose photographs captured the beauty of the canton, the country, the world, remind us that beauty is accessible to everyone, anywhere and everywhere, if only we choose to see it.

Walk away from your laptops and mobile phones.

Look up to the glory of the heavens instead.

Pull the phones from your ears.

Listen to the orchestra of songbirds, the crash of waves, and the whisper of your own thoughts.

Reject VR.

Choose reality.

Turn off the TV.

Switch off the radio.

Ignore movies that rob us of imagination.

Resist stimulants and distractions.

Learn to love life as it is in all its complexity.

Read a great work of literature.

Look at photographs and pictures.

Walk and make your own memories.

Words are the expression of thought.

Pictures are the expression of emotion.

Walking is the synchronicity of both thought and emotion in a symphony of all the senses.

Another suburban family morning.
Grandmother screaming at the wall.

We have to shout above the din of our Rice Crispies
We can’t hear anything at all.
Mother chants her litany of boredom and frustration,
But we know all her suicides are fake.

Daddy only stares into the distance
There’s only so much more that he can take.


Many miles away something crawls from the slime
At the bottom of a dark Scottish lake.

Another industrial ugly morning
The factory belches filth into the sky.
He walks unhindered through the picket lines today,
He doesn’t think to wonder why.
The secretaries pout and preen like cheap tarts in a red light street,
But all he ever thinks to do is watch.
And every single meeting with his so-called superior
Is a humiliating kick in the crotch.


Many miles away something crawls to the surface
Of a dark Scottish loch.

Another working day has ended.
Only the rush hour hell to face.
Packed like lemmings into shiny metal boxes.
Contestants in a suicidal race.
Daddy grips the wheel and stares alone into the distance,
He knows that something somewhere has to break.
He sees the family home now looming in his headlights,
The pain upstairs that makes his eyeballs ache.


Many miles away there’s a shadow on the door
Of a cottage on the shore
Of a dark Scottish lake
Many miles away [7x]

Altnau is nowhere special.

Altnau is everywhere special.

Discover your own Altnau.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Ray Bradbury, Fahrenheit 451 / The Pedestrian / Evliya Çelebi, The Book of Travels / Philip K. Dick, We can remember it for you wholesale / Aldous Huxley, Brave New World / Jamiroquai, Virtual Insanity / Billy Joel, Allentown / It’s still rock & roll to me / Movin’ Out / Jaron Lanier, You Are Not a Gadget / Stanislaw Lem, The Futurological Congress / The Police, Synchronicity II / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Louise Purwin Zobel: The Travel Writer’s Handbook

Canada Slim and the Love of Landscape

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Monday 20 July 2020

Think of this blog as a prologue.

It is named “Building Everest“, for it is here where I practice building something impressive (hopefully), my writing career.

Everest kalapatthar.jpg

Above: Mount Everest

On Monday (13 July) I phoned an old friend in Gatineau, Québec, Canada and we got to talking about our literary passions and ambitions.

Both of us in our 50s we have come to the realization that there are probably more years behind us than ahead of us, and there is no guarantee that the years that remain will necessarily be healthy years.

Happily, our creative projects do not conflict.

Gatineau downtown area

Above: Gatineau, Québec, Canada

He would like to write science fiction and fantasy similar to C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien.

Monochrome head-and-left-shoulder photo portrait of 50-year-old Lewis

Above: C(live) S(taples) Lewis (1898 – 1963)

Tolkien as a second lieutenant in the Lancashire Fusiliers (in 1916, aged 24)

Above: J(ohn) R(onald) R(euel) Tolkien (1892 – 1973)

I want to write novels and travel books similar to Charles Dickens and Paul Theroux.

Charles Dickens

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

Theroux in 2008

Above: Paul Theroux (b. 1941)

I miss my friend and Ottawa where our sporadic reunions usually take place and I wish we lived closer to one another and we could be like his literary heroes.

Centre Block on Parliament Hill, the Government House, Downtown Ottawa, the Château Laurier, the National Gallery of Canada and the Rideau Canal

Above: Images of Ottawa, Ontario, Canada (across the river from Gatineau)

Lewis, Tolkien and their friends were a regular feature of the Oxford scenery in the years during and after the Second World War.

From top left to bottom right: Oxford skyline panorama from St Mary's Church; Radcliffe Camera; High Street from above looking east; University College, main quadrangle; High Street by night; Natural History Museum and Pitt Rivers Museum

Above: Images of Oxford, England

They drank beer on Tuesday at “the Bird and Baby” (The Eagle and Child Pub) and on Thursday nights they met in Lewis’s Magdalen College rooms to read aloud from the books they were writing, jokingly calling themselves “the Inklings“.

The Eagle and Child.jpg

Above: The Eagle and Child, Oxford

Magdalen-may-morning-2007-panorama.jpg

Above: Magdalen (pronounced Maud-lin) College, Oxford

Above: The corner of the Eagle and Child where the Inklings regularly met

Lewis and Tolkien first introduced the former’s The Screwtape Letters and the latter’s The Lord of the Rings to an audience in this company.

Thescrewtapeletters.jpg

First Single Volume Edition of The Lord of the Rings.gif

As a English Canadian living in Deutschschweiz, I long for some sort of local creative writing club where I could share my writing worries and hopes in a way much like Lewis, in a letter to his friend A(lfred) K(enneth) Hamilton Jenkin (1900 – 1980), described the idyllic setting of his college rooms:

Above: Linguistic map (German, French, Italian, Rumansh) of Switzerland

The Story of Cornwall: A.K. Hamilton Jenkin: Amazon.com: Books

I wish there was anyone here childish enough (or permanent enough, not the slave of his particular and outward age) to share it with me.

Is it that no man makes real friends after he has passed the undergraduate age?

Because I have got no forr’arder, since the old days.

I go to Barfield (Owen Barfield) for sheer wisdom and a sort of richness of spirit.

Owen Barfield – AnthroWiki

Above: Arthur Owen Barfield (1898 – 1997)

I go to you for some smaller and yet more intimate connexion with the feel of things.

But the question I am asking is why I meet no such men now.

Is it that I am blind?

Some of the older men are delightful:

The younger fellows are none of them men of understanding.

Oh, for the people who speak one’s own language!

I guess this blog must serve this capacity.

So many ideas float through my mind and are captured in my chapbook.

(Normally, a chapbook refers to a small publication of about 40 pages, but I use this word in the context of a portable notebook where ideas are recorded as they spontaneously occur.)

Above: Chapbook frontispiece of Voltaire’s The Extraordinary Tragical Fate of Calas, showing a man being tortured on a breaking wheel, late 18th century

Just a sample:

  • Scaling the Fish: Travels around Lake Constance

Bodensee satellit.jpg

  • Mellow Yellow: Switzerland Discovered in Slow Motion

  • The Coffeehouse Chronicles (an older man in love with a much younger woman)

Above: Café de Flore in Paris is one of the oldest coffeehouses in the city.

It is celebrated for its famous clientele, which in the past included high-profile writers and philosophers

  • America 47 (think 47 Ronin meets Trumpian times)

Flag of the United States

  • 20th Century Man (think time travel)

The Time Machine (H. G. Wells, William Heinemann, 1895) title page.jpg

  • Lover’s Cross (a Beta male escapes his Alpha wife)

Jim Croce - Lover's Cross (1985, Vinyl) | Discogs

  • Alicia in Switzerland (Alice in Wonderland meets Gulliver’s Travels in Switzerland)

Alice in Wonderland (1951 film) poster.jpg

  • Love in the Time of Corona (though the title is reminiscent of Love in the Time of Cholera, the story is more about the virtues of faith, family and hope in periods of plague)

LoveInTheTimeOfCholera.jpg

  • Gone Mad (what is sanity and how is the world seen by those judged ill in this regard)

Above: Engraving of the eighth print of A Rake’s Progress, depicting inmates at Bedlam Asylum, by William Hogarth.

  • The Forest of Shadows (sci-fi that asks the question what if the past never dies?)

Above: Conifer forest, Swiss National Park

I have the ideas.

I believe I have the talent.

What is lacking is the ability to market myself and the discipline to be a prolific writer.

Still I believe that each day I am getting closer to the realization of my ambitions.

Doug And The Slugs - Day By Day (1985, Vinyl) | Discogs

One thing that inspires my creativity is my travels and sometimes even a drive through the country can be the spark that ignites my imagination.

Landschlacht to Flims (Part One), Thursday 28 May 2020

Transport of the mails, transport of the human voice, transport of flickering pictures – in this century, as in others, our highest accomplishments still have the single aim of bringing men together.” (Antoine de Saint-Exupéry)

Saint-Exupéry in Toulouse, 1933

Above: Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (1900 – 1944)

He and She

In a sense, it is travelling together that can make (or break) a relationship.

My wife and I don’t always live together harmoniously, but, generally, we travel well together.

Like any relationship with two (or more) people, harmony is possible once an understanding of who the other person is and what they like becomes clearer.

He said she said.jpg

My wife is an efficient German doctor who sets a goal and will not stop until it is realized, and for this she does have my respect.

I am the “life is a journey, not a destination dreamer in the relationship.

Life Is a Highway Tom Cochrane.jpg

I recall a bitter battle of poorly chosen words between us when on a journey between Freiburg im Breisgau (Black Forest of southwestern Germany) and Bretagne (on the Atlantic coast of France) we argued over efficiency over effectiveness.

I wanted to explore the regions between the Black Forest and Bretagne instead of simply rushing through them.

She, the driver, found driving through towns far more exhausting than sticking to motorways.

I, the passenger, wanted to see more than concrete rest stops where we wouldn’t stop and far-off fields we would never walk.

Main eventposter.jpg

Over the years we have come to an unspoken compromise.

We travel slowly to our travel destination and zoom home after our time there was complete.

Above: The Tortoise and the Hare“, from an edition of Caleb’s Fables illustrated by Arthur Rackham, 1912

On this day our journey in Switzerland (as of this day the borders around Switzerland were not yet open) wasn’t far by Canadian driving standards: a little over an hour and an half if we followed Highway 13 and Expressway 62 from Landschlacht in Canton Thurgau to Flims in Canton Graubünden.

Instead we opted to take the scenic route, avoiding as much as humanly possible heavily trafficked Autobahns, extending the journey at least another hour if we did not stop on the way.

Flag of Switzerland

I’ve no use for statements in which something is kept back, ” he added.  “And that is why I shall not furnish information in supprt of yours.

The journalist smiled.

You talk the language of St. Just.

Without raising his voice Rieux said he knew nothing about that.

The language he used was that of a man who was sick and tired of the world he lived in – though he had much liking for his fellow men – and had resolved, for his part, to have no truck with injustice and compromises with the truth.

His shoulders hunched, Rambert gazed at the doctor for some Moments without speaking.

Then, “I think I understand you,” he said, getting up from his chair.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

La Peste book cover.jpg

The Private Secret Language of Altnau

What I do know for certain is that what is regarded as success in a rational materialistic society only impresses superficial minds. 

It amounts to nothing and will not help us rout the destructive forces threatening us today. 

What may be our salvation is the discovery of the identity hidden deep in any one of us, and which may be found in even the most desperate individual, if he cares to search the spiritual womb which contains the embryo of what can be one’s personal contribution to truth and life.

(Patrick White)

White in Sydney, 1973

Above: Patrick White (1912 – 1990)

Heading east along Highway 13 from Landschlacht, the Traveller comes to Altnau (population: 2,244).

During the Lockdown (16 March to 10 May 2020) I often followed the walking path that hugs the shore of Lake Constance, north of both the Lake Road (Highway #13) and the Thurbo rail line, from Landschlacht to Altnau.

Visitors that zoom past Landschlacht often zoom past Altnau as well, as both Highway #13 and the railroad lie north of the town centre, so neither connection to Altnau is a boon to tourism or the economy as a whole.

Altnau remains for most people only a deliberate distant choice, which is a shame as the town entire has been designated as part of the Inventory of Swiss Heritage Sites, with a special focus on the town’s Reformed and Catholic churches and the Apfelweg (apple path).

Oberdorf Altnau

Above: Upper town, Altnau, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The Apfelweg, the first fruit educational path in Switzerland, is a nine-kilometre long circular route which explains with 16 signs everything you didn’t know you wanted to know about apples and apple production.

Understandably the Apfelweg is best done in the spring when the blossoms are on the orchards or late summer when the apples are ready to be harvested.

Apfelweg Altnau - Thurgau Tourismus

What can be seen by the lakeside visitor, even viewed from the highway or the train, is the Altnau Pier (Schiffsanlegesteg Altnau).

Completed in 2010, at a length of 270 metres, because of the wide shallow water zone, the Pier is the longest jetty on Lake Constance.

Altnauers call this jetty the Eiffel Tower of Lake Constance because the length of the jetty is the same as the height of the Tower.

Above: Altnau Pier

Notable people have formed the fabric of Altnau.

Hans Baumgartner (1911 – 1996), a famous (by Swiss standards) photographer was born here.

He studied in Kreuzlingen and Zürich and would later teach in Steckborn and Frauenfeld.

He would later sell his photographs to magazines and newspapers.

In 1937, Baumgartner met the Berlingen artist Adolf Dietrich who would feature in many of Baumgartner’s future photographs.

Adolf Dietrich.jpg

Above: Adolf Dietrich (1877 – 1957)

Baumgartner travelled and photographed Paris, Italy, the Balkans, southern France, North Africa and the Sahara, Croatia and the Dalmatian Coast, Burgundy, Spain, Portugal, Sweden, Finland, the US, Mexico, Belgium and Germany.

He also visited Bombay, Colombo, Saigon, Hong Kong and Yokohama.

He even photographed his spa visits in Davos.

Der Chronist mit der Kamera | Journal21

Above: Hans Baumgartner (1911 – 1996)

Altnau attracted the likes of composer-poetess Olga Diener (1890 – 1963).

Born in St. Gallen, Olga lived in Altnau from 1933 to 1943.

Diener, Olga Nachlass Olga Diener

Above: Olga Diener

In a letter to Hans Reinhart in June 1934, Hermann Hesse wrote about Olga’s work:

“I like Olga’s dreams very much.

I also love many of her pictures and their rhythms, but I see them enclosed in a glasshouse that separates her and her poems from the world.

That miracle must come about in poetry, that one speaks his own language and his pictures, be it only associative, that others can understand – that distinguishes the dream from poetry.

Olga’s verses are, for me at least, far too much dream and far too little poetry.

She has her personal secret language not being able to approximate the general language in such a way that the sender and recipient correspond to each other.

So I am privately a genuine friend of Olga’s and her books, but as a writer I am not able to classify them.

Hermann Hesse 2.jpg

Above: Hermann Hesse (1877 – 1962)

Besides Hesse, of the visitors Olga Diener had in her Altnau home, of interest is fellow poet Hans Reinhart (1880 – 1963).

Reinhart came from a Winterthur trading family, which allowed him the opportunity to lead a financially independent poet’s life.

During a spa stay in Karlovy Vary in the late summer of 1889, Reinhart read Hans Christian Andersen‘s fairy tales for the first time.

Andersen in 1869

Above: Hans Christian Andersen (1805 – 1875)

They deeply impressed Reinhart and he later transformed them into stage plays.

After his secondary studies, “Müggli” studied philosophy, psychology, German, art, theatre and music history in Heidelberg, Berlin, Zürich, Paris, Leipzig and Munich.

After completing his studies, he met Rudolf Steiner for the first time in 1905, whom he recognized as a spiritual teacher.

Reinhart later helped Steiner build the first Goetheanum and made friends with other anthroposophists.

In 1941 Reinhart brought his friend Alfred Mombert and his sister from the French internment camp Gurs to Winterthur.

Reinhart Hans, 1880-1963, Dichter - Winterthur Glossar

Above: Hans Reinhart (1880 – 1963)

Another of Olga’s Altnau guests was writer / poet Emanuel von Bodman (1874 – 1946).

Bodman lived in Kreuzlingen as a child and attended high school in Konstanz.

After studying in Zürich, Munich and Berlin, he chose Switzerland’s Gottlieben as his adopted home.

His home, like Olga’s, was the meeting point for many artists, including the famous Rainer Maria Rilke and Hermann Hesse.

Bodman wrote several dramas, short stories and hundreds of poems.

He was seen as a poet, storyteller and playwright in the neo-romantic, neo-classical tradition.

Emanuel von Bodman - Liebesgedichte und Biographie

Above: Emanuel von Bodman

I write about these members of a long-departed Dead Poets Society, whose works we have not read and might never read, to inspire us.

If writers, poets, artists and musicians can come from Here and their works be loved (at least in their times) then perhaps we too can rise above our humblest of origins and find such luck to inspire others.

Dead poets society.jpg

All of these wordsmiths and miracle scribes seem, without exception, all thick and heavy with each other.

And herein lies my weakness.

By temperament, I am more like the Americans Charles Bukowski and Eric Hoffer than I am like those one might call the litterati.

Charles Bukowski smoking.jpg

Above: Charles Bukowski (1920 – 1994)

Eric Hoffer in 1967, in the Oval Office, visiting President Lyndon Baines Johnson

Above: Eric Hoffer (1898 – 1983)

But there is the Internet – a potential tool I have yet to master.

Visualization of Internet routing paths

Above: Visualization of Internet routing paths

Today, hardly anyone knows the poet Olga Diener.

It almost seems as if her existence was as unreal as the tone of her poems.

She was once a very real phenomenon on Lake Constance where she had her permanent residence during the 1930s.

She had an exchange of letters with Hermann Hesse.

The poets Hans Reinhart and Emanuel von Bodman were among the guests at her annual anniversary celebrations (4 January) by candlelight.

Pin by Rine Ling on bokeh art photography | Candles photography ...

Otherwise she avoided the company of people with their too many disappointments and losses.

Her house “Belrepeire“, which she had planned herself, was a little bit away from the village.

Belrepeire” is the name of a city in Wolfram von Eschenbach’s poem “Parzival“.

Above: Statue of Wolfram von Eschenbach (1160 – 1220), Abenburg Castle, Bavaria, Germany

The poet was under the spell of the Grail myth.

Above: The Holy Grail depicted on a stained glass window at Quimper Cathedral, France

Olga found in the silence of her seclusion, the voice of her poems, which bore fairytale titles like “The Golden Castle” or “The White Deer“.

In this mystery game, a character named Blaniseflur sings the verses:

All the gardens have woken up. 

Dew fell from the stars and

Venus Maria walked through them with her light feet. 

Now flowers breathe the sky

And the Earth fulfills the dream

Received from spring night.

How a blackbird sings! 

The longing carries the swans

Swinging across the lake. 

The sun rises red from the water.

Light is everything.

Sunrise on the Lake Constance | Bodensee, in German. Konstan… | Flickr

The images Olga saw on long walks on the shores of the Lake, as she would have said, condensed into dreamlike structures, the form of which was often difficult to understand.

Even Hans Rheinhart, who made the only attempt for decades to critically appreciate Olga in the Bodenseebuch (the Book of Lake Constance) in 1935, did not understand her “private secret language“.

jahrgaenge 1935 - ZVAB

Olga was actually a musician.

For her there was no creative difference between writing and composing.

How musical her language was can immediately be heard when her poetry is read out loud.

Her words are full of sound relationships far beyond the usual measure, which Hesse described:

In your newer verses there is often such a beautiful sound.”

Music notes set musical note treble clef Vector Image

Olga wrote notes like other people speak words.

In the guestbook of Julie and Jakobus Weidenmann, she immortalized herself with a song instead of verses.

She was often a guest at the Weidenmanns.

Julie shared Olga’s natural mystical worldview, which was coloured Christian, while Olga tended to esotericism.

Julie’s first volume of poems is entitled Tree Songs, while Olga wrote a cycle called Rose Songs in Altnau.

Jakobus Weidenmann – Personenlexikon BL

Above: Jakobus and Julie Weidenmann

The seventh poem of Olga’s cycle contains her lyrical confession:

Leave me in the innermost garden

Faithfully my roses wait:

Fertilize, cut, bind,

Cut hands from thorns.

The blooming light, awake moonlight

Enter the flower goblets.

The winds pull gently over it,

And rain roars in some nights.

I am earthbound like her

And once again disappeared.

Unlike Olga, Golo Mann (1909 – 1994) was anything but a mystic.

As the son of Thomas Mann, Golo belonged to one of the most famous literary families in the world.

Not only his father, but also his uncle Heinrich and his siblings Erika, Klaus, Monika, Elisabeth and Michael worked as writers.

Writing was in Golo’s blood.

Above: Golo Mann (1909 – 1994)

This does not mean that writing was always easy for him.

On the contrary, like all of Thomas Mann’s children, Golo was overshadowed by his father and did not feel privileged to be the son of a Nobel laureate in literature.

Golo saw himself primarily as a historian and thus distinguished himself from the novelist who was his father.

Above: Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

Nevertheless, Golo used a thoroughly literary approach to history.

Two of his books are titled History and Stories and Historiography as Literature.

The fact that Golo cultivated a narrative style that earned him condescending reviews and the derisive ridicule of fellow historians, but this did not stop the general public from enthusiastically reading his books.

Deutsche Geschichte des 19. und 20. Jahrhunderts - Golo Mann ...

Golo Mann’s first bestseller was largely created in Thurgau.

Again and again Golo retired to Altnau for several weeks in the Zur Krone Inn, for the first time in summer 1949.

His memories of Lake Constance were published in 1984 in the anthology Mein Bodensee: Liebeserklärung an eine Landschaft (My Lake Constance: Declaration of Love for a Landscape), under the title “Mit wehmütigen Vergnügen” (with wistful pleasure).

There he writes about the Krone:

There was an inn on the ground floor, the owner’s family had set up an apartment on the first floor, and on the second floor a few small rooms connected by a forecourt were available to friends of the Pfisters, the bookseller Emil Oprecht and his wife Emmi.

Thanks to my friend Emmi, they became my asylum, my work and retirement home.

Emmi and Emil Oprecht belonged to the circle of friends of Julie and Jakobus Weidenmann in Kesswil.

The Oprecht home in Zürich was a meeting point for all opponents of the Hitler regime during the war.

Ziviler Ungehorsam gegen Hitler: Wie Emil und Emmie Oprecht auch ...

Above: Emil and Emmi Oprecht

Europa Verlag (Europa Publishing) was committed to the same democratic and social spirit as that of the Weidenmann guests in the 1920s, including Golo’s siblings Erika and Klaus.

Above: Erika Mann (1905 – 1969) and Klaus Mann (1906 – 1949)

Golo’s father was good friends with Emil Oprecht and published the magazine Mass und Wert (Measure and Value) together with Konrad Falke (1880 – 1942).

It is ultimately thanks to these diverse relationships that Golo Mann put his Deutsche Geschichte des 19. und 20. Jahrhunderts (German History of the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries) in paper in 1956 and 1957, primarily in Altnau.

The success of this book made it possible for Golo Mann, who had gone into American exile like his father, to finally return to Europe.

It looked like nothing stood in the way of his academic career.

When his appointment to the University of Frankfurt did not come about, Golo retired from teaching and lived from then on a freelance writer in his parents’ home in Kilchberg on Lake Zürich and in Berzona in Canton Ticino, where fellow writers Alfred Andersch (1914 – 1980) and Max Frisch were his neighbours.

Above: Max Frisch (1911 – 1981)

In Kilchberg, Berzona, and again in Altnau, Golo wrote his opus magnum, Wallenstein – Sein Leben erzählt von Golo Mann (Wallenstein: His Life Told by Golo Mann).

Telling history was completely frowned upon by academic historians in 1971, the year this monumental biography was published, but Golo didn’t care nor did the thousands of his readers.

Wallenstein“ (Golo Mann) – Buch gebraucht kaufen – A02lgtja01ZZ4

Despite hostility from university critics, Golo was awarded two honorary doctorates, in France and England, but not in the German-speaking world.

In addition, he was awarded a number of literary prizes for his books: the Schiller Prize, the Lessner Ring, the Georg Büchner Prize, the Goethe Prize and the Bodensee Literature Prize.

Große Kreisstadt Überlingen: Bodensee-Literaturpreis

The last will have particularly pleased him, because the Lake smiled at the beginning of his literary fame.

(For more on the entire Thomas Mann family, please see Canada Slim and the Family of Mann in my other blog, The Chronicles of Canada Slimhttps://canadaslim.wordpress.com)

The Lake seemed to be smiling at the beginning of our journey as we left Highway #13 in the direction of Sommeri.

Summery Sommeri Summary

The word ‘plague’ had just been uttered for the first time….

Everybody knows that pestilences have a way of recurring in the world.

Yet somehow we find it hard to believe in ones that crash down on our heads from a blue sky.

There have been as many plagues as wars in history.

Yet always plagues and wars take people equally by surprise.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Above: The plague, Marseille, France, 1720, Michel Serré

Sommeri (population: 591) is first mentioned in 905 as Sumbrinaro.

Between 1474 and 1798, the villages of Niedersommeri and Obersommeri formed a court of the PrinceAbbot of St. Gall.

In 1474 the Church of St. Mauritius was dedicated.

It was renovated to its current appearance in the first half of the 15th century.

After the Protestant Reformation reached Sommeri in 1528, the church became a shared church for both faiths in 1534.

Originally the major economic activities in Sommeri were predominantly grain production and forestry.

Wappen von Sommeri

Above: Coat-of-arms of Sommeri

It was nearly obliterated by the Black Death in 1629.

In the second half of the 19th century, fruit production, hay production, cattle and dairy farming were added.

A cheese factory was opened in 1852.

In the last third of the 20th century, some industrial plants moved into the villages, especially embroidery and furniture manufacturing.

At the beginning of the 21st century there were companies in the HVAC industry, precision engineering and manufacturing school furniture in Sommeri.

Sommeri

Above: Sommeri, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

To be frank, there is no reason to linger in Sommeri, except to say that it was the birthplace of the writer Maria Dutli-Rutlishauser (1903 – 1995) of whom I have previously written.

Alt- Steckborn

Above: Maria Dutli-Rutlishauser

(For more on Maria, please see Canada Slim and the Immunity Wall of this blog.)

Onwards.

From Sommeri, Google Maps leads her hapless wanderers onwards to Langrickenbach.

Google Maps Logo.svg

Query:

How contrive not to waste time?

Answer:

By being fully aware of it all the while.

Ways in which this can be done:

By spending one’s days on an uneasy chair in a dentist’s waiting room, by remaining on one’s balcony all Sunday afternoon, by listening to lectures in a language one doesn’t know, by travelling by the longest and least convenient train routes, and, of course, standing all the way, by queuing at the box office of theatres and then not booking a seat. 

And so forth.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Longing for Langrickenbach

Langrickenbach (population: 1,291) was first mentioned in 889 as “Rihchinbahc“.

It is a place for crops and fruit, cattle breeding and dairy farming, general goods, timber and cattle trading.

Again, not much to see.

Hit the road.

Above: Langrickenbach, Canton Thurgau

Watching cows and calves playing, grooming one another or being assertive, takes on a whole new dimension if you know that those taking part are siblings, cousins, friends or sworn enemies.

If you know animals as individuals you notice how often older brothers are kind to younger ones, how sisters seek or avoid each other’s company, and which families always get together at night to sleep and which never do so.

Cows are as varied as people.

They can be highly intelligent or slow to understand, friendly, considerate, aggressive, docile, inventive, dull, proud or shy.

All these characteristics are present in a large enough herd.”

(Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows)

The Secret Life of Cows: Amazon.co.uk: Young, Rosamund ...

The Birwinken Bulletin

Makes me think of Bullwinkle, the cartoon moose and his squirrel friend Rocky.

No moose or squirrels spotted.

Above from left to right: Rocky, Bullwinkle, and Captain Peter “Wrongway” Peachfuzz

Birwinken (population: 1,319) was first mentioned in 822 as “Wirinchova“.

In the 19th century, the village economy added animal husbandry….

Cattle feedlot

(My wife is an animal?)

….to the traditional agriculture and fruit growing.

In 1878, a weaving firm and three embroidery factories provided 165 jobs.

However the decline of the textile industry in the 20th century and the village’s remoteness from Anywhere led to high levels of emigration.

As a result, the village never developed much industry and has remained a farmer’s hamlet.

In 1990, for example, 63% of the population worked in agriculture.

Birwinken

Above: Birwinken, Canton Thurgau

It was only a matter of lucidly recognizing what had to be recognized, of dispelling extraneous shadows and doing what needed to be done….

There lay certitude.

There, in the daily round.

All the rest hung on mere threads and trivial contingencies.

You couldn’t waste your time on it.

The thing was to do your job as it should be done.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

The Doctor Luke Fildes crop.jpg

Above: The Doctor, Luke Fildes, 1891

What is an extremely interesting product of the village is native son Stefan Keller (b. 1958), a writer, journalist and historian.

Rotpunktverlag

Above: Stefan Keller

Keller is best known for:

  • Die Rückkehr: Joseph Springs Geschichte (The Return: Joseph Spring’s Story)

The Berlin youth Joseph Sprung was chased through half of Europe by the Nazis.

He lived in Brussels, Montpellier and Bordeaux with false papers and worked as an interpreter without being recognized.

He survived invasions and rail disasters, but never kissed a girl when he fell into the hands of the Swiss border authorities in November 1943.

At the age of 16, the fugitive was handed over to the Gestapo by the Swiss border guards and denounced as a Jew.

He was transferred to the Auschwitz concentration camp via the Drancy collective warehouse near Paris.

Sixty years later, Joseph Sprung returned to Switzerland.

Today his name is Joseph Spring, he lives in Australia and demands the justice he deserves.

He accused the Swiss government of aiding and abetting genocide.

In a sensational trial, the Swiss federal court decided in 2000 that the extradition of a Jewish youth to the National Socialists can no longer be judged.

Joseph Spring had at least asked for symbolic reparation.

In November 2003, he returned to Switzerland to tell his story:

The story of a survivor who sued an entire country, went through a process to demand justice, lost it, and still has the last word.

Die Rückkehr: Joseph Springs Geschichte (Hörbuch-Download): Amazon ...

  • Die Zeit der Fabriken (The Age of Factories)

The worker Emil Baumann was already dead when his former superior Hippolyt Saurer died unexpectedly.

The whole of Arbon mourned the truck manufacturer Saurer.

At that time, almost all of Arbon mourned Baumann, for whom the workers in Saurer’s factory were responsible for his death.

Emil Baumann died shortly after an argument with his boss Saurer.

It is 1935 when everything starts with two deaths.

The young lathe operator Emil Baumann dies from suicide because his master harasses him and because he cannot cope with the new working conditions.

The college immediately went on strike.

Then the entrepreneur and engineer Hippolyt Saurer dies.

He choked on his own blood after an tonsil operation.

Based on the death of these two men, Stefan Keller tells the story of a small town in eastern Switzerland, its conflicts, triumphs and defeats.

The city of Arbon on the Swiss shore of Lake Constance is ruled by the “Reds” (by the Social Democrats, the left).

The Adolph Saurer AG factory was and still is legendary for its (military) trucks.

Above: Memorial to Franz, Adolph und Hippolyt Saurer, Arbon

Arbon is an example of many places in Switzerland:

The time of the factories is also a history of the Swiss industry and workers’ movement.

Starting with the motor carriages of the Wilhelminian era to the Saurer gasification trucks of the National Socialists, from the big strikes after 1918 to the dismantling of almost all jobs in the 1990s and from the resistance of an editor against censors in the Second World War to the union’s «fight against» against foreign colleagues.

Die Zeit der Fabriken: Amazon.de: Stefan Keller: Bücher

  • Grüningers Fall (The Grüninger Case)

A historical report about the St. Gallen police captain Paul Grüninger, who in the 1930s, according to his conscience and not in accordance with the law, saved the lives of numerous Jews.

The facts:

In 1938/1939, Grüninger saved the lives of hundreds, if not thousands, of Austrian, Jewish refugees by providing them with the wrong papers and thus enabling them to enter Switzerland legally.

He was suspended from duty due to breach of official duties and falsification of documents.

He was severely fined for his conduct and sentenced to prison.

The book aims to make it clear that today it was not Grüninger who would have to sit on the dock, but the inhumane refugee policy of the Swiss government during the Nazi era.

The book was made into a film in 1997 based on a screenplay by Stefan Keller and directed by Richard Dindo with Keller’s expert advice.

Grüningers Fall

  • Maria Theresia Wilhelm: Spurlos verschwunden (Maria Theresia Wilhelm: Disappeared without a trace)

In the mid-1930s Maria Theresia Wilhelm met the Swiss mountain farmer and gamekeeper Ulrich Gantenbein, who subsequently left his first wife.

From the beginning Maria and Ulrich’s marriage suffered from official regulations.

Ulrich is admitted to a psychiatric clinic shortly after their marriage.

Maria is barely tolerated by the neighbourhood.

Eventually she too comes to a psychiatric clinic and there experiences inhumane therapy methods from today’s perspective.

Her seven children are torn away, placed in orphanages and put to work.

Maria is finally released in June 1960.

On the way to buy shoes, she disappears without a trace….

Maria Theresia Wilhelm - spurlos verschwunden - Stefan Keller ...

Rieux asked Grand if he was doing extra work for the Municipality.

Grand said No.

He was working on his own account.

“Really?”, Rieux said, to keep the conversation going.

“And are you getting on well with it?”

“Considering I’ve been at it for years, it would be surprising if I wasn’t.

Though, in one sense, there hasn’t been much progress.”

“May one know” – the doctor halted – “what it is that you’re engaged on?”

Grand put a hand up to his hat and tugged it down upon his big, protruding ears, then murmured some half-inaudible remark from which Rieux seemed to gather that Grand’s work was connected with “the growth of a personality”.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Bürglen Bound

Next town Google leads us to is Bürglen (population: 3,841), first mentioned in 1282 as “Burgelon“.

Even though the village was fortified around 1300, it was never considered a city, due to the decline of its owner, the Baron of Sax-Hohensax, and from other neighbouring villages.

After the disastrous fire of 1528, the villagers went into debt for the reconstruction of Bürglen.

To help pay off their debt, in 1540 they granted the nobility rights to St. Gallen.

Under St. Gallen, Bürglen lost most of its autonomy.

St. Gallen appointed the bailiff and the chairman of the Lower Court, promoted the settlement of its citizens to form a local elite and change the succession order of inheritances.

Despite this, the local farmers enjoyed a certain independence.

In the 17th century, they promoted the expansion of the Castle as well as the creation of new businesses.

This relative prosperity was followed in the 18th century by a government practice that hindered the formation of viable village government and led to general impoverishment.

Reformierte Kirche und Schloss Bürglen

Above: Bürglen, Canton Thurgau

Power mattered more than people.

A problem eternal and universal.

Worth seeing is the Bürgeln Castle, the old quarter and the Reformed Church.

Above: Bürglen Castle

Of notable personalities connected to Bürgeln, it was home to artists Gottlieb Bion (1804 – 1876), Fritz Gilsi (1878 – 1961) and Jacques Schedler (1927 – 1989) as well as the writer Elisabeth Binder (b. 1951).

I haven’t read Ms. Binder’s work as yet, but the titles sound appealing…..

  • Der Nachtblaue (The Night Blue)
  • Sommergeschicht (Summer Story)
  • Orfeo
  • Der Wintergast (The Winter Guest)
  • Ein kleiner und kleiner werdender Reiter: Spurren einer Kindheit (A rider getting smaller and smaller: Traces of a childhood)

Above: Elisabeth Binder

Ever south and east the long and winding road continues….

The long and winding road.png

Cottard was a silent, secretive man, with something about him that made Grand think of a wild boar.

His bedroom, meals at a cheap restaurant, some rather mysterious comings and goings . these were the sum of Cottard’s days.

He described himself as a traveller in wines and spirits.

Now and again he was visited by two or three men, presumably customers.

Sometimes in the evening he would go to a cinema across the way.

In this connection Grand mentioned a detail he had noticed – that Cottard seemed to have a preference for gangster films.

But the thing that had struck him most about the man was his aloofness, not to say his mistrust of everyone he met.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Nighthawks by Edward Hopper 1942.jpg

Above: Nighthawks, Edward Hopper, 1942

Few Words for Wuppenau

Wuppenau (population: 1,111) was first mentioned in 820 as “Wabbinauwa” and is primarily an agricultural community.

Wuppenau

Above: Wuppenau, Canton Thurgau

(It is funny how so many of the original names seem similar to those of the Original Peoples of the Americas.

Or akin to something Elmer Fudd might say about wascally wabbits.)

ElmerFudd.gif

….and that’s all I have to say about that.

Film poster with a white background and a park bench (facing away from the viewer) near the bottom. A man wearing a white suit is sitting on the right side of the bench and is looking to his left while resting his hands on both sides of him on the bench. A suitcase is sitting on the ground, and the man is wearing tennis shoes. At the top left of the image is the film's tagline and title and at the bottom is the release date and production credits.

We are now in Canton St. Gallen and the city of Wil (pronounced “ville”).

Wappen von Wil

Above: Coat of arms of Wil, Canton St. Gallen

The Word Pump and the Swan Song of Wil

“I have the same idea with all my books: an attempt to come close to the core of reality, the structure of reality, as opposed to the merely superficial. 

The realistic novel is remote from art. 

A novel should heighten life, should give one an illuminating experience. 

It shouldn’t set out what you know already. 

I just muddle away at it. 

One gets flashes here and there, which help. 

I am not a philosopher or an intellectual. 

Practically anything I have done of any worth I feel I have done through my intuition, not my mind.”  (Patrick White)

There are times in a man’s life when he simply must ask for assistance and my trying to convey to you an accurate mental image of Wil may require the services of an expert.

Above: Wil Castle

Ask Fred.

Fred Mast, excuse me, Professor Dr. Mast.

Born and raised in Wil, Fred is a full professor at the University of Bern, specialized in mental imagery, sensory motor processing and visual perception.

Perhaps he is one of the few folks who can truly answer the question:

Do you see what I see?

Über uns: Prof. Dr. Fred Mast - Kognitive Psychologie, Wahrnehmung ...

Above: Dr. Fred Mast

I mean, Fred should know, he has been educated and worked at universities esteemable, such as Zürich, the Federal Institute of Technology (ETHZ)(Switzerland’s equivalent to MIT), Harvard, MIT, Lausanne and Bern.

Some of his published papers suggest he does know what he is talking about:

  • Visual mental imagery interferes with allocentric orientation judgments
  • Visual mental images can be ambiguous
  • Mental images: always present, never there

Black Mamba oder die Macht der Imagination: Wie unser Gehirn die ...

Thanks, Dr. Fred, for demystifying the fuzzification.

Let me say for the record that as a place to visit I have always liked Wil….

But as a place to work….not as much.

Wil (population: 23,955), today the 3rd biggest city in Canton St. Gallen, was founded around 1200 and was handed over by the Counts of Toggenburg to the Abbey of St. Gallen in 1226.

(Look, Ma!  Look at what I founded!)

Disputes between the Abbey and Habsburg King Rudolf I (1218 – 1291) led to the destruction of Wil in 1292.

(If Rudolf couldn’t have Wil, then no one will?)

Above: Statue of Rudolf I, Speyer Cathederal, Germany

Wil was again besieged in the Old Zürich War in 1445 and yet again in the Toggenburg War in 1712.

On 1 January 2013, Susanne Hartmann became the first female mayor, not only of Wil-Bronschhofen, but in the entire canton of St. Gallen.

Hartmann announced her candidacy in April 2012.

Despite all forecasts the result of the elections was a landslide victory for Susanne Hartmann.

Despite (or perhaps because) the bus being driven by a woman, Will carries on.

Susanne Hartmann :: CVP Kanton St. Gallen

Above: Her Honour Wil Mayor Susanne Hartmann

In addition to many small and medium-sized enterprises, Wil is also home to a number of large, some international, industrial firms, including Stihl, Larag, Camion Transport, Brändle, Heimgartner Fahnen, Schmolz & Bickenbach, Kindlemann….

So it stands to reason that a city of industry may attract schools to teach those in these industries.

Such was the Wil school (now defunct) where I taught.

It was, what we in the business of freelance teaching refer to as a “cowboy school“, an institution more interested in the school’s acquisition of money than in the students’ acquisition of an education.

It was one of those schools where parents sent their children who lacked either the capacity or the desire to learn.

A paid education in all senses of the word.

It was a nightmare to teach there.

Blackboard Jungle (1955 poster).jpg

The students, best defined as juvenile deliquents or little criminal bastards, would not do their assignments, stay off their damn phones, bring their textbooks to class, listen in class or stop talking to one another.

The worst of them brought out the worst in me, so it was to everyone’s mutual relief when we parted company.

Above: Student – Teacher Monument, Rostock, Germany

As for the city of Wil itself, putting aside my feelings towards my ex-employer now extinct, there is much that is positive to relate.

Wil is considered to be the best preserved city in Eastern Switzerland and best seen from afar standing atop the Stadtweiher (a hill with a pond overlooking Wil) overlooking the silhouette of the old quarter.

The pedestrian promenade from Schwanenkreisel (Swan Circle) towards the old quarter is the place where most of the shops are, including a farmer’s market every Saturday.

On 8 July 2006, the 37-metre high Wiler Tower was inaugurated on the Hofberg (the mountain above Wil).

It is a wooden structure with a double spiral staircase and three X supports.

It is worth the climb for the view, if not for the exercise.

Around 180 kilometres of hiking trails are signposted around Wil.

The almost 33 kilometres long Wilerrundweg (Wil Circle Path)….

(Safer than a cycle path?)

….was established in 2013.

Kussbänkli: Kantonsrat Sennhauser hat es hergestellt – und ...

Above: The Kissing Bench

The 87-kilometre Toggenburger Höhenweg (high road) starts in Wil and leads to Wildhaus via Mühlrüti, Atzmännig and Arvenbüel.

Toggenburger Höhenweg - Ferienregion Toggenburg - Ostschweiz

The Thurweg passes near Wil at Schwarzenbach (black creek), following the Thur River from Wildhaus to Rüdlingen where it meets the Rhine River in Canton Schaffhausen.

Thurweg von Stein nach Ebnat- Kappel - MeinToggenburg.ch

Worth seeing in Wil are the Maria Hilf Wallfahrtskirche (Mary of Charity Pilgrim Church), the Abbey Castle, the St. Katarina Dominican and the Capuchin Cloisters, the Courthouse, Ruddenzburg (Ruddenz Castle), St. Niklaus and St. Peter Catholic Churches, the old Guardhouse, the City Archive, the Schnetztor gate, the City Museum (open on weekends from 2 to 5 pm), the psychiatric clinic (ask, in vain, for Dr. Fred) and the former Hurlimann tractor factory.

Wil has the Challer Theatre, the Kunsthalle (art hall), the Tonhalle (concert hall) and the Remise (for more modern music), but excepting these cultural remnants the young generally don’t party here if they can get away to Zürich.

The room was in almost complete darkness.

Outside, the street was growing noisier and a sort of murmur of relief greeted the moment when all the street lamps lit up, all together.

Rieux went out on to the balcony and Cottard followed him.

From the outlying districts – as happens every evening in our town – a gentle breeze wafted a murmur of voices, smells of roasting meat, a gay perfumed tide of freedom sounding on its ways, as the streets filled up with noisy young people released from shops and offices.

Nightfall with its deep remote baying of unseen ships, the rumour rising from the sea and the happy tumult of the crowd – that first hour of darkness which in the past had always had a special charm for Rieux – seemed today charged with menace, because of all he knew.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Mediterranean side – Oran

Above: Oran, Algeria

Of the many famous people native to Wil, noteworthy (by Swiss standards) are the filmmaker Max Peter Ammann (b. 1929) and the TV star Kurt Felix (1941 – 2012).

LESE-THEATER-STÜCK VON MAX PETER AMMANN IM HOF ZU WIL – wil24.ch

Above: Max Peter Ammann

Kurt Felix

Above: “When I must go, I will leave a happy man.

Daniel Imhof (b. 1977), the Swiss son of a Smithers (British Columbia) bush pilot, is a retired footballer from Canada’s national soccer team and now resides in Wil.

Canada Soccer

I think to myself:

I have finally gotten so impossible and unpleasant that they will really have to do something to make me better….

They have no idea what a bottomless pit of misery I am….

They do not know that this is not some practice fire drill meant to prepare them for the real inferno, because the real thing is happening right now.

All the bells say:

Too late.

It’s much too late and I’m so sure that they are still not listening.

(Elizabeth Wurtzel, Prozac Nation)

ProzacNationBook.jpg

Of human interest is the story of Wil native, the opera singer Anna Sutter (1871 – 1910).

Her brief affair with royal Württemberg court conductor Aloys Obrist proved to be fatal.

After she ended their two-year relationship in 1909, Obrist entered her Stuttgart apartment on 29 June 1910 and killed her with two pistol shots before taking his own life.

Sadly, Anna is best remembered for how she died than for how she lived.

Cows are individuals, as are sheep, pigs and hens, and, I dare say, all the creatures on the planet however unnoticed, unstudied or unsung.

Certainly, few would dispute that this is true of cats and dogs and horses.

When we have had occasion to treat a farm animal as a pet, because of illness, accident or bereavement, it has exhibited great intelligence, a huge capacity for affection and an ability to fit in with an unusual routine.

Perhaps everything boils down to the amount of time spent with any one animal – and perhaps that is true of humans too.

(Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows)

CH cow 2 cropped.jpg

Also worth mentioning is the writer René Oberholzer (b. 1963), who has been teaching in Wil (in a non-cowboy school it is hoped) since 1987.

He began writing poetry in 1986 and prose in 1991.

(I must confess my rural roots and prejudices appear when I find myself asking:

Do real men write (or even read) poetry?

I believe they do, but whether the fine folks in Argenteuil County in Canada feel that way is debatable.)

Shakespeare.jpg

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

Oberholzer founded the Höhenhöhe (higher heights) writers group in 1991.

As founding can be addictive, the following year he then founded the literary experimental group Die Wortpumpe (the Word Pump) together with his colleagues (co-conspirators?) Aglaja Veteranyi and Gabriele Leist.

He is a member of several author associations.

His work has been mainly published in anthologies, literary and online magazines.

He is best known for:

  • Wenn sein Herz nicht mehr geht, dann repariert man es und gibt es den Kühen weiter: 39 schwarze Geschichten (When his heart stops beating, repair it and give it to the cows: 39 dark tales)
  • Ich drehe den Hals um – Gedichte (I turn my stiff neck: Poems)
  • Die Liebe würde an einem Dienstag erfunden (Love was invented on a Tuesday)
  • Kein Grund zur Beunruhigung – Geschichten (No reason to panic: Stories)

Die Liebe wurde an einem Dienstag erfunden: 120 Geschichten | René ...

As my wife and I are married (no reason to panic) and it was a Thursday (as love only visits Wil on Tuesdays), we faithfully follow fatalistic Google Maps, and continue on to….

Why is it that one can look at a lion or a planet or an owl or at someone’s finger as long as one pleases, but looking into the eyes of another person is, if prolonged past a second, a perilous affair?

(Walker Percy)

Percy in 1987

Above: Walker Percy (1916 – 1990)

Restful Rickenbach

Rickenbach (population: 2,774), first mentioned in 754 as “Richinbach“.

After the end of the crop rotation system in the 19th century livestock and dairy farming became the major sources of income.

A mill, built in the 13th century, was expanded in 1919 to become Eberle Mills, which operated until 2000.

The Eschmann Bell Foundry existed until 1972.

After the construction of the A1 motorway and the growth of Wil, by 1990 the population of Rickenbach had doubled.

Langrickenbach

Above: Rickenbach

A bridged Lütisburg

When a war breaks out people say:

It’s too stupid.  It can’t last long.”

But though a war may well be ‘too stupid’, that doesn’t prevent its lasting.

Stupidity has a knack of getting its way.

As we should see if we were not always so much wrapped in ourselves.

In this respect our townsfolk were like everybody else, wrapped up in themselves.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Duns cup helps with concentration

Lütisburg (population: 1,576), though smaller than Rickenbach, is far more interesting to the casual visitor.

It is first mentioned on 1214 as “Luitinsburch“.

Wappen von Lütisburg

Above: Lütisburg coat of arms

The Castle, built in 1078 by the Abbey of St. Gallen, was abandoned by the Abbey a short time later, but due to the Castle’s strategically important location, it became the headquarters of the Counts of Toggenburg from the 13th to the 15th centuries.

After the Abbey acquired the County of Toggenburg in 1468, the Castle served as a bailiwick.

In the 19th century, alongside agriculture, ironworks, copper hammering and manufacturing dominated.

The train station has existed since 1870.

Above: Lütisburg, 1700

Lütisburg’s townscape is characterized by bridges and footbridges, including the Letzi Bridge (1853), the Guggenloch Railway Viaduct (1870) and the “new” Thur Bridge (1997).

The covered wooden bridge (1790) over the Thur River, on the cantonal road to Flawil, was used for car traffic until 1997.

Upon the wooden Letzi Bridge, the hiking trail to Ganterschwil crosses the Neckar River.

The nearby hamlet of Winzenburg with its Winzenberger Höhe (heights) (836 m) is a popular destination with local lovers of landscape.

B&B Winzenberg (Schweiz Lütisburg) - Booking.com

Lütisburg’s claim to fame, beside its bridges, lies with the two brothers Germann….

War of any kind is abhorrent. 

Remember that since the end of World War II, over 40 million people have been killed by conventional weapons. 

So, if we should succeed in averting nuclear war, we must not let ourselves be sold the alternative of conventional weapons for killing our fellow man. 

We must cure ourselves of the habit of war.

(Patrick White)

Modern warfare: Into the Jaws of Death, 1944

Kilian Germann (1485 – 1530) was the son of Johannes Germann, the Chief bailiff of Lütisburg, and brother of the mercenary leader (and later bailiff) Hans Germann (also known as the Batzenhammer) and Gallus Germann (also chief bailiff of Lütisburg).

Kilian was governor in Roschach (1523 – 1528) and in Wil (1528 -1529).

In 1529, Kilian was elected to be the next Prince-Abbot of St. Gallen in Rapperswil.

After his confirmation by Pope Clement VII (1478 – 1534), Kilian was also proposed for this position to Emperor Charles V (1500 – 1558) who confirmed him in February 1530.

Above: Coat of arms of Kilian Germann

But life often thwarts the best-laid plans….

What I am interested in is the relationship between the blundering human being and God.

I belong to no church, but I have a religious faith.

It is an attempt to express that, among other things, that I try to do.

Whether he confesses to being religious or not, everyone has a religious faith of a kind.

I myself am a blundering human being with a belief in God who made us and we got out of hand, a kind of Frankenstein monster.

Everyone can make mistakes, including God.

I believe that God does intervene.

I think there is a Divine Power, a Creator, who has an influence on human beings if they are willing to be open to Him.

(Patrick White)

Michelangelo - Creation of Adam (cropped).jpg

Above: Creation of Adam, Michelangelo, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Prince-Abbot Kilian fled to Meersburg (on the German side of Lake Constance) in 1529 after the outbreak of the First Kappel War.

From February 1530, Kilian lived at Wolfurt Castle near Bregenz (on the Austrian part of Lake Constance).

Above: Wolfurt Castle

In exile, Kilian nonetheless cultivated his social network with the southern German nobility in order to secure political pressure on the reformed movement on the Prince-Abbot’s lands, which did not escape the attention of his enemy, the reformer Vadian.

Above: Vadian statue, St. Gallen

In 1530, Kilian represented the Abbey of St. Gallen at the Council of Basel.

In July, he visited the Augsburg Reichstag (government).

It looked like Kilian’s fading star was beginning to shine once more.

That same year of his visits to Basel and Augsburg, returning to Bregenz after a visit to the Earl of Montfort, Kilian drowned when his horse fell into the Bregenz Ach (stream).

He was buried in the Mehrerau Monastery near Bregenz.

Abtei Mehrerau – Blick vom Gebhardsberg

Discipline is the soul of an army.

It makes small numbers formidable, procures success to the weak and success to all.

(George Washington)

Gilbert Stuart Williamstown Portrait of George Washington.jpg

Above: George Washington (1730 – 1799)

Hans Germann (1500 – 1550), Kilian’s younger brother, was an officer in the service of the French Crown for many years.

After returning home, Hans supported his brother Kilian during the turmoil of the Reformation.

Contemporaries described Hans as “a firm, brave, but rough, frivolous journeyman, who had sold many of his fellow countrymen to France for boring gold.”

Above: Coat of arms of Captain Hans Germann, Kreuzenstein Castle, Austria

I guess we find both sinners and saints in every family and in every community.

The socially disadvantaged of Ganterschwil

In my books I have lifted bits from various religions in trying to come to a better understanding.

I have made use of religious themes and symbols.

Now, as the world becomes more pagan, one has to lead people in the same direction in a different way.

(Patrick White)

Down the road (so to speak) is the village of Ganterschwil (population: 1,186).

It is first mentioned in 779 as “Cantrichesuilare“.

(Try saying that five times fast….)

Pfarrkirche von Ganterschwil

Above:  Parish church, Ganterschwil, Canton St. Gallen

Grain and oats were grown and processed in three mills here.

From the 18th century, contract weaving became important.

Small textile factories developed from family businesses.

In the 19th century, the livestock and dairy indutries replaced grain cultivation.

After the crash in the textile industry in 1918, only smaller companies could be built.

In 2000, around half of the working population was employed in the service sector.

Wappen von Ganterschwil

Above: Coat of arms of Ganterschwil

The Home for Socially Disadvantaged Children, founded in 1913 by Reformer Pastor Alfred Lauchener, developed into the Centre for Child and Adolescent Psychiatry Sonnenhof.

Klinik Sonnenhof Ganterschwil

Above: Centre for Child and Adolescent Psychiatry Sonnenhof, Ganterschwil

In Ganterschwil, there are many small businesses that offer jobs.

The best-known is the Berlinger Company, which was active in tape production.

Today it plays a leading role in the production of doping control systems, in the form of counterfeit-proof sample glasses.

Temperature Monitoring / Doping Control Equipment- Berlinger & Co. AG

In the parish church there are frescoes from the Middle Ages discovered and restored in 1941 and now under the protection of the Swiss Confederation.

Ganterschwil is a place difficult to define.

Is it the past?

The future?

What is it now?

The Beautiful Minds of Lichtensteig

Lichtensteig (population: 1,870) is first mentioned in 1228 and was founded by the Counts of Toggenburg as “Liehtunsteige“.

A market is mentioned in 1374 and the right to hold markets was confirmed in 1400.

A letter of privileges issued by the Lords of Raron (1439) confirms the existence of 12 burghers and the appointment of judges by the burghers and the Lords.

After the acquisition of the Toggenburg by St. Gallen Abbey in 1468, Lichtensteig became the seat of the Abbot’s reeve.

The council declared Lichtensteig’s support for the Reformation in 1528.

The sole church at this time was shared by both Reformed and Catholic believers, while their schools were kept separate until 1868.

Lichtensteig’s importance as a market town increased in the 19th century with the development of the textile home working industry in the Toggenburg.

In the early 20th century, there were six yearly markets and a weekly livestock market.

Lichtensteig’s connection to the railroad dates to 1870.

Lichtensteig

Above: Lichtensteig, Canton St. Gallen

I don’t quite know how to say this politely, so I will say it directly.

It seems the further south one travels in Deutschschweiz, the smarter people seem to be.

Thurgau is blood, sweat, tears and toil.

Thurgau is always in the middle of things, between two places but belonging to neither.

Wars of religion and between nations have been fought here for centuries.

Tourists do not linger in Thurgau but traverse it en route to places deemed more interesting.

This is farm country, a land of labour and pragmatism, where poets party in private homes but never parade themselves in political protest processions.

Coat of arms of Kanton Thurgau

Above: Coat of arms of Canton Thurgau

St. Gallen, both city and canton especially the City itself, bears the scent of incense, the stains on a faithful shroud, the remnants of religious rule.

Coat of arms of Kanton St. Gallen

Above: Coat of arms of Canton St. Gallen

St. Gallen is reminiscent of (Giovanni Bocaccio’s Decameron) Ceppello of Prato, who after a lifetime of evil, hoodwinks a holy friar with a deathbed confession and comes to be venerated as St. Ciappelletto, except in reverse with the holy friar hoodwinking the world into venerating it as holier than it could have been.

Decameron, The (unabridged) – Naxos AudioBooks

Granted that the St. Gallen Abbey Library is truly worthy of its UNESCO designation as “an outstanding example of a large Carolingian monastery and was, since the 8th century until its secularisation in 1805, one of the most important cultural centres in Europe”.

The library collection is the oldest in Switzerland, and one of earliest and most important monastic libraries in the world.

The library holds almost 160,000 volumes, with most available for public use.

In addition to older printed books, the collection includes 1,650 incunabula (books printed before 1500), and 2,100 manuscripts dating back to the 8th through 15th centuries – among the most notable of the latter are items of Irish, Carolingian, and Ottonian production.

These codices are held inside glass cases, each of which is topped by a carved cherub offering a visual clue as to the contents of the shelves below – for instance, the case of astronomy-related materials bears a cherub observing the books through a telescope.

Books published before 1900 are to be read in a special reading room.

The manuscript B of the Nibelungenlied (The Song of the Nibelungs, an epic poem written around 1200, the first heroic epic put into writing in Germany, helping to found a larger genre of written heroic poetry) is kept here.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey Library

Granted that the University of St. Gallen (“from insight to impact“) is, according to international rankings,  considered among the world’s leading business schools.

University of St. Gallen logo english.svg

But, my view of the city of St. Gallen is coloured by my experience, which has meant a working man’s life split between teaching at private schools similar to the cowboy outfit of Wil and formerly working as a Starbucks barista.

Neither side seems reflective of St. Gallen’s intellectual potential.

Above: Old houses, St. Gallen

(To be fair, people don’t actually hate places.

They hate their experiences of places.)

The two half-cantons of Appenzell Innerrhoden and Appenzell Ausserrhoden have, over time, perhaps without justification, become the butt of many a joke from the rest of Switzerland when one seeks a place to label as backwards.

Coat of arms of Appenzell

Above: Coat of arms of the half-cantons of Appenzell

To be fair to the comedians, Appenzell still has elections where folks line up in the town square to cast their votes by raising their arms to show their assent and it was the last place in the nation to give women the right to vote.

Farmers still lead their cattle in great processions through towns to Alpine pastures in springtime and back again when winter threatens.

As one travels from Thurgau south towards Ticino one senses a change in spirit.

Swiss cantons

Already we have encountered a village that fostered the growth of a Pulitzer Prize-deserving journalist and we have traversed towns of castles and artists, of epic tales and bridges over troubled waters.

But it is here in Lichtensteig where the air becomes rarified, where farmers think and plowmen wax poetic.

The time has come when scientific truth must cease to be the property of the few, when it must be woven into the common life of the world.” (Louis Agassiz)

Louis Agassiz H6.jpg

Above: Louis Agassiz (1807 – 1873)

Jost Bürgi (1552 – 1632) is probably the kind of man Agassiz had in mind.

Lichtensteiger Bürgi was a Swiss clockmaker, a maker of astronomical instruments and a mathematician.

Although an autodidact (he taught himself), Bürgi was already during his lifetime considered one of the most excellent mechanical engineers of his generation (think of a Da Vinci or an Edison).

Bürgi’s employer, William IV (1532 – 1592), the Landgrave of Hesse-Kessel, in a letter to Tycho Brahe (1542 – 1601)(Denmark’s greatest astronomer) praised Bürgi as “a second Archimedes” (287 – 212 BC).

The lunar crater Byrgius (the Latin form of Bürgi) is named in this Lichtensteiger’s honour.

Above: Portrait of Jost Bürgi

Another thinking man from Lichtensteig was Augustine Reding (1625 – 1692), a Benedictine, the Prince-Abbot of Einsiedeln Abbey and a respected theological writer.

At Einsiedeln, Reding organized the construction of the Abbey’s choir, confessional and the Chapel of St. Magdalena.

In 1675, Einsiedeln took charge of the college at Bellinzona, which was conducted by the monks of the Abbey until their suppression in 1852.

Reding watched carefully over discipline of Abbey affairs and insisted on a thorough intellectual training of his monks.

Above: Einsiedeln Cloister, Canton Schwyz

Lichtenberger Johann Ulrich Giezendanner (1686 – 1738) learned the profession of goldsmithing in Toggenburg.

Through his parish priest Niklaus Scherrer and his friend August Hermann Francke in Halle, Giezendanner began to practice pietism.

Giezendanner was banished from Toggenburg on suspicion of pietism, because he threatened the authorities with the criminal judgment of God.

His threats led to an investigation by a pietist commission set up by the Council, in which the secular side had the majority.

As a result, Giezendanner was expelled without a trial in 1710.

And so he went to Zürich.

In 1714, Giezendanner began studying theology at the University of Marburg, heard lectures from Johann Heinrich Hottinger (1681 – 1750) and worked as a teacher in the Marburg orphanage.

Because Giezendanner preached on his own initiative in Marburg, he was expelled from the state of Hesse.

Logo

After a short stay in Heidelberg, he returned to eastern Switzerland and began to hold secret meetings in Bottinghoffen near Scherzingen, less than 10 klicks (Canadian for kilometres) from my Landschlacht driveway.

Above: Bottighofen Harbour

As a representative of the radical pietism in German-speaking Switzerland, he returned to Zürich until he was expelled from there for his preaching.

On 29 June 1716, Giezendanner’s most memorable sermon of inspiration was given at the country estate of Johann Kaspar Schneeberger in Engstringen (just outside Zürich), in which Giezendanner said:

Hear now, my word, you stupid sticky clods of earth, where is your lie?

And so, hear, hear, heads of this place, you enter as gods and lords, but what kind of god you have for your rule, is it not with you all that you bring your belly to God?

With great arrogance to exclaim sins on the streets, when you walk on the streets, sin will take place and all of you will find it.

Unterengstringen, im Vordergrund das Kloster Fahr

Above: Engstringen, Canton Zürich

Unable to win friends and influence people in Switzerland, Giezendanner emigrated to America in 1734, working as a goldsmith in Charleston.

In 1736, he founded the first church of Toggenburger, Rhine Valley and Appenzell pietists in South Carolina’s Orangeburg County.

Above: Historic houses, Charleston, South Carolina, USA

It is a pity that those trained in the uncertainties of faith couldn’t be made responsible for the training of those who lead nations.

Perhaps a rigorous examination of our leaders’ intellectual and moral training might prevent the rise of demagogues and populists whose only qualification for power is their desire to dominate others.

Another man whose mind was a beautiful thing to behold was Max Rychner.

Max Rychner (1897 – 1965) was a writer, journalist, translator and literary critic.

Hannah Arendt (1906 – 1975), widely considered to be one of the most important political philosophers of the 20th century, called Rychner “one of the most educated and subtle figures in the intellectual life of the era“.

Rychner is considered, among other things, to be the discoverer of the poet Paul Celan (1920 – 1970), the publisher of the memoirs of Walter Benjamin (1892 – 1940), the editor-translator of philosopher-poet Paul Valéry (1871 – 1945), as well as being himself a poet, novelist and essayist.

Rychner is best known for:

  • Freundeswort (Word of a friend)
  • Die Ersten: Ein Epyllion (The first: an epyllion)(not sure what an epyllion is)
  • Unter anderem zur europäischen Literatur zwischen zwei Weltkriegen (On European literature between two world wars)
  • Arachne
  • Bedelte und testierte Welt (Affirmed and certified world)

Bei mir laufen Fäden zusammen - Max Rychner | Wallstein Verlag

According to Wikipedia, Rycher’s “method of literary admiration, based on hermeneutic models, raised formal aesthetic criteria far beyond questions of content and meaning.”

I have no idea of what that means, but it sure sounds impressive.

An incomplete sphere made of large, white, jigsaw puzzle pieces. Each puzzle piece contains one glyph from a different writing system, with each glyph written in black.

Wikivoyage (German version only) recommends Lichtensteig for:

  • the alleys and houses in the old quarter of the town

  • the Toggenburger Museum (Sundays 1 – 5 pm)

  • Fredy’s Mechanical Music Museum (last weekend of the months April to December at 3 pm / guided tours only / five-person minimum / CHF 14 per person)

Fredy's Mechanical Music Museum | Switzerland Tourism

  • Erlebniswelt Toggenburg (Adventure World Toggenburg)(Wednesdays and weekends: 1030 to 1630)

(It’s a small world, after all.)

Erlebniswelt Toggenburg - BESUCHER

  • Various sports facilities, including a climbing wall and an outdoor pool
  • the Thurweg which wends through the town

Datei:Thurweg..jpg

  • Jazz Days, with international jazz greats, annually

Jazztage Lichtensteig | Erlebnisregion Ostschweiz & Bodensee

Travel as a Political Act

Now you may be wondering why I bother telling you all of this, explaining in painful prose what lies beneath the surface of places.

Travel guide writer Rick Steves said it best:

Travel connects people with people.

It helps us fit more comfortably and compatibly into a shrinking world.

It inspires creative new solutions to persistent problems facing our nation.

We can’t understand our world without experiencing it.

There is more to travel than good-value hotels, great art and tasty cuisine.

Travel as a political act means the Traveller can have the time of his life and come home smarter – with a better understanding of the interconnectedness of today’s world and just how we fit in.”

Travel as a Political Act (Rick Steves): Steves, Rick ...

Steves sees the travel writer of the 21st century like a court jester of the Middle Ages.

Rick Steves cropped.jpg

Above: Rick Steves

While thought of as a comedian, the jester was in a unique position to tell truth to power without being punished.

Back then, kings were absolute rulers – detached from the lives of their subjects.

The court jester’s job was to mix it up with people that the King would never meet.

The jester would play in the gutter with the riffraff.

Then, having fingered the gritty pulse of society, the true lifeblood of the Kingdom, the jester would come back into the court and tell the King the truth.

Above: “Keying Up” – The Court Jester, by William Merritt Chase, 1875.

Your Highness, the people are angered by the cost of mead. 

They are offended by the Queen’s parties. 

The Pope has more influence than you. 

Everybody is reading the heretics’ pamphlets. 

Your stutter is the butt of many rude jokes.

Is there not a parallel here between America and this Kingdom?

Comedians like Seth Meyers, Stephen Colbert and Trevor Noah are listened to more by the average American than the actual news these comedians parody.

For these jesters of 21st century television know the pulse of the nation far more accurately than do the mandarins of power in Washington.

Seth Meyers by Gage Skidmore.jpg

Above: Seth Meyers

Stephen Colbert December 2019.jpg

Above: Stephen Colbert

Trevor Noah 2017.jpg

Above: Trevor Noah

Trump is the butt of many rude jokes, because he deserves to be.

Trump has leaders from around the world openly laughing at him at ...

Meyers, Colbert and Noah are graffiti writers on the walls of sacred institutions, watching rich riffraff ride roughshod over the rest of those whose sole hopes from the gutter is that their only direction from their perspective is up.

File:Who Watches the Watchmen.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

In the Kingdom, the King did not kill the jester.

In order to rule more wisely, the King needed the jester’s insights.

In America, the President would love to kill his critics.

He is not interested in ruling wisely, only perpetually.

Official Keep America Great 45th President Hat – Trump Make ...

Many of today’s elected leaders have no better connection with real people (especially beyond their borders) than those divinely ordained monarchs did centuries ago.

Any Traveller, including your humble blogger and you my patient readers, can play jester in your own communities.

Sometimes a jackass won’t move unless a gesturing mosquito is biting its behind.

Mosquito 2007-2.jpg

Consider countries like El Salvador (where people don’t dream of having two cars in every garage) or Denmark (where they pay high taxes with high expectations and are satisfied doing so) or Iran (where many compromise their freedom for their fidelity to their faith).

Travellers can bring back valuable insights and, just like those insights were needed in the Middle Ages, this understanding is desperately needed in our age of anxiety.

Ideally, travel broadens our perspectives personally, culturally and politically.

Suddenly, the palette with which we paint the parameters of our personalities has more colour, more vibrancy.

We realize that there are exciting alternatives to the social and community norms that our less-travelled neighbours may never consider.

It is like discovering there are other delicacies off the menu, that there is more than one genre of music available on the radio, that there is an upstairs alcove above the library yet to be discovered, that you haven’t yet tasted all 31 flavours.

1970s Baskin Robbins 31 Flavors Ice Cream logo

That there are more things in Heaven and Earth than are dreamt of in your philosophy.

I will never be against tourists who travel to escape their workaday lives and simply wish to relax in as uncomplicated a fashion as humanly possible.

Sometimes this is needed.

Kokomo song cover.jpg

No, I am referring to Travellers who travel with a purpose on purpose.

People who try to connect with other people.

People who take history seriously.

Yesterday’s history informs today’s news, which becomes all our tomorrows.

Those with a knowledge (or at least a curiosity) of history can understand current events in a broader context and respond to them more thoughtfully.

As you travel, opportunities to enjoy history are everywhere.

Work on cultivating a general grasp of the sweep of history and you will be able to infuse your travels with more meaning.

Even if, in this time of corona, our travels are local.

Above: History by Frederick Dielman (1896)

I digress.

The Warriors of Wattwil

The long and winding road leads us to Wattwil (population: 8,740), first documented in 897 as “Wattinurlare” (which sounds exotic but only means “Watto’s village“).

Wattwil Gesamtansicht Yburg.jpg

Above: Wattwil, Canton St. Gallen

Around 1230, Heinrich von Iberg had Iberg Castle built here.

It was destroyed during the Appenzell Wars (1401 – 1429) and rebuilt.

It served as the seat of the bailiffs until 1805.

Above: Iberg Castle, Wattwil

In 1468, the entire Toggenburg County (the last Toggenburg Count, Friedrich VII died without heirs) was bought by St. Gallen Abbey.

The Pfaffenweise (place of assembly) (today a cemetery) served as a community and war gathering point and as a place to demonstrate hommage to the Prince-Abbots of St. Gallen.

Above: Wattwil station

In 1529, Pastor Mauriz Miles from Lichtensteig introduced the Reformation to Wattwil.

The population, which supported the religious innovations by a large majority, was able to prevail against the Catholic abbots.

Catholic Services were only reintroduced in 1593.

The Wattwil church was used by both faiths until a new Catholic church was built in 1968.

Above: Wattwil Reformed Church

Above: Wattwil Catholic Church

In 1621, the Capuchin Convent of St. Mary the Angel was built on the slope called the Wenkenürti (I have no idea what this translates to.) after a devastating fire at their previous location on Pfanneregg (a hill where the Vitaparcours – think “outdoor gym path” – is practiced).

The Convent is an excellently preserved complex with a highly baroque church.

Sadly, the Sisters left the monastery in 2010.

Above: St. Mary the Angel Convent

In the 17th century, St. Gallen Abbey wanted to expand the road known as Karrenweg via Rickenpass, in order to ensure a better connection between St. Gallen and Catholic Central Switzerland.

The majority of the Reformed Wattwil populace refused to work on it or contribute to it, tirggering the Toggenburg Turmoil (1699 – 1712), which led to the Second Villmerger War of 1712.

The road was only realized in 1786.

Wattwil’s traditional linen weaving mill was replaced by a cotton factory in 1750.

In the 19th century, more than a dozen companies started operating in the town.

In 1881, the Toggenburg weaving school was founded, from which the Swiss Textile Technical School later emerged.

The spirit of intelligence, the thirst for knowledge, the expression of wisdom can also be found in Wattwil.

Ulrich Bräker (1735 – 1798) was an autodidact, writer and diarist, known for his autobiography, widely received at the time as the voice of an unspoiled “natural man” of the lower classes, based on the title which Bräker became known “der arme Mann im Toggenburg” (the poor man of Toggenburg).

Bräker was born the oldest of eight siblings.

Above: Bräker’s birth house in Näppis near Wattwil

Bräker was educated in literacy and basic arithmetic during ten weeks each winter, working as a goatherd for the rest of the year.

In 1754, the family moved to Wattwil, where Bräker worked various jobs.

In 1755, he entered the service of a Prussian recruiting officer.

Against Bräker’s wishes, he was pressed into military duty in the 13th infantry regiment of the Prussian army in 1756, but he managed to escape later that same year in the midst of the Battle of Lobositz.

War Ensign of Prussia (1816).svg

Above: War flag of Prussia

Returning to his native Toggenburg, Bräker married Salome Ambühl (1735 – 1822) of Wattwil in 1761 and had several children.

Bräker built a house “auf der Hochsteig” (on the high slope) outside of Wattwil and traded in cotton for the local home industry.

Above: Bräker’s house auf der Hochsteig, contemporary drawing (c. 1794; the house was destroyed in 1836)

He began writing a diary.

Der arme Mann im Tockenburg - Ulrich Bräker - Buch kaufen | Ex Libris

Bräker’s writing talent was discovered by local writer and intellectual Johann Ludwig Ambühl.

Bräker published some texts in Ambühl’s Brieftasche aus den Alpen (Letter Bag from the Alps).

Bräker’s writing is based on the pietistic outlook and reflects familiarity with the Bible as well as a keen observation of nature and an enthusiastic interest in the translated works of Shakespeare.

9781166984809: Die Brieftasche Aus Den Alpen (1780) (German ...

Bräker’s diary is a touching human document containing Lebensweisheit (pearls of pure pramatic wisdom).

Sämtliche Schriften, 5 Bde., Bd.1, Tagebücher 1768-1778: Amazon.de ...

Bräker lived to see, and was perturbed by, the French invasion of Switzerland in the spring of 1798.

He died in September that same year.

Johann Ludwig Ambühl (1750 – 1800) was a civil servant and a writer – much like my aforementioned Canadian friend at the beginning of this post.

Ambühl was the son of the schoolmaster of Wattwil, Hans Jacob Ambühl (1699 – 1773).

At the age of 23, Johann became his father’s successor in 1733, for he had helped Hans, increasingly blind, with seven hours of instruction every day since he was 12.

In his free time, Johann mainly devoted himself to studying geometry, music, reading, drawing and collecting natural objects.

In Wattwil, Ambühl was considered a Stölzling (nerd), because of his always strict and serious appearance in public.

9781120610225: Die Brieftasche Aus Den Alpen (1780) (German ...

In 1783, on the recommendation of Gregorius Grob, Ambühl was hired as a court master by the rich Rheineck merchant Jacob Laurenz Custer.

In this function, he accompanied one of his students to Strasbourg in 1786, to Geneva (1788 – 1789) and in 1790 on a study trip through Italy.

The majority of Ambühl’s literary work consists of plays of extremely patriotic content.

It was like sawdust, the unhappiness.

It infiltrated everything.

Everything was a problem, everything made her cry….but it was so hard to say exactly what the problem was in the first place.” 

(Melanie Thernstrom, The Dead Girl)

The Dead Girl by Melanie Thernstrom

Hans Adolf Pestalozzi (1929 – 2004) was a social critic of late 20th century capitalism, which eventually led to his becoming a bestselling author.

Hans A Pestalozzi - Alchetron, The Free Social Encyclopedia

Born in Zürich, Pestalozzi, after his studies at the University of St. Gallen, started working for Migros.

Logo

In the 1960s he built up the Gottlieb Duttweiler Institut, a think tank named ater the Migros founder, in Rüschlikon (on Lake Zürich).

The Institute was established to investigate the range of possible shortcomings and negative effects of capitalism, in particular within Western consumer society, so that they could be combated more effectively.

Pestalozzi fulfilled that task very thoroughly, too thoroughly, especially in his lectures, so much so that in 1977 he was fired by Migros.

Rather than looking for a new job, he became a freelance writer and self-proclaimed “autonomous agitator” who sided with the fledging European youth, peace and ecological movements.

He preached “positive subversion” and tried to convince people that using their own intelligence was the right thing to do.

HANS A. PESTALOZZI | Autor, Positiv

Above: Pestalozzi (centre), After us the future, from positive subversion (left) and Off the trees of the apes (right)

Moreover, Pestalozzi demanded a guaranteed minimum income for everybody.

Pestalozzi died a recluse by suicide in his home near Wattwil.

Einsamer Tod eines wirtschaftskritischen Managers

Wikivoyage recommends the Cloister, the Castle and the Kubli Church in Wattwil.

The current Wikivoyage logo

The Wattwil area is great for hiking and mountain biking.

And somewhere down the highway….

The Afterglow of Ebnat- Kappel

Perhaps the easiest way of making a town’s acquaintance is to ascertain how the people in it work, how they love and how they die. 

In our little town (is this, one wonders, an effect of the climate?) all three are done on much the same lines, with the same feverish yet casual air. 

The truth is that everyone is bored and devotes himself to cultivating habits.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

The Plague (1992 film).jpg

Ebnat-Kappel (population: 5,031) was first mentioned in 1218 as “Capelle“.

On 26 July 1854, a fire almost completely destroyed the village.

In 1847, Johann Gerhard Oncken founded the first Swiss Baptist church here in E-K.

Ebnat-Kappel Vilagxo kun preghejo 611.jpg

People visit Ebnat-Kappel primarily to ski or to follow the 60-kilometre Thurweg.

Worth viewing are:

  • the Reformed Church in the centre of Ebnat along with the church hall with its front tower

  • the Steinfels House (a Gothic building with Baroque decor)

  • the Ackerhaus (built for Albert Edelmann who donated the house to serve as the local museum)

Museum Hauskultur Toggenburg Ackerhaus, Ebnat-Kappel

  • Typical wooden Toggenburg houses preserved in nearby Eich

Bäuerliches Toggenburger Haus in Ebnat-Kappel Foto & Bild ...

  • the Felsenstein House in Kappel with Gothic windows and cross-vaulted rooms
  • the willow wood figures near the station depicting a chapel and an unicorn

Wappen von Ebnat-Kappel

Above: Coat of arms of Ebnat – Kappel

  • the Sinnepark (a sensory park) just south of the village

Der Sinnepark - Verkehrsverein Ebnat-Kappel

Above: Ebnat-Kappel station

Notable people of Ebnat-Kappel are:

  • Albert Edelmann (1886 – 1963) was a teacher, painter and sponsor of local folk and cultural assets.

His Ackerhaus museum shows objects of Toggenburg culture from four centuries.

In addition to household items and equipment from the Toggenburg, the collection contains rural paintings, pictures by Babeli Giezendammer and other painters, seven house organs and neck zithers.

By the end of the 19th century, the neck zither game in Toggenburg was forgotten.

Thanks to Edelmann this tradition was revived.

There is a room dedicated to the Biedermeier period (1815 – 1848) in Toggenburg.

Edelmann’s former studio shows his CV and his work.

While the Museum offers encounters with the past, the culture of Now is everpresent.

Above: Albert Edelmann

I enjoy decoration. 

By accumulating this mass of detail you throw light on things in a longer sense. 

In the long run it all adds up. 

It creates a texture – how shall I put it – a background, a period, which makes everything you write that much more convincing. 

Of course, all artists are terrible egoists. 

Unconsciously you are largely writing about yourself. 

I could never write anything factual. 

I only have confidence in myself when I am another character. 

All the characters in my books are myself, but they are a kind of disguise.

(Patrick White)

  • Babeli Giezendanner (1831 – 1905) was a painter, representative of Appenzeller / Toggenburger peasant painting.

She was born the third of nine children.

In 1861, she married master shoemaker Ulrich Remisegger.

In 1873, he died in an accident.

As a widow with three children, Babeli supported her family through weaving, drawing and painting.

In 1904, she moved to the Hemberg poorhouse and lived there until she died in her 74th year.

Possibly all art flowers more readily in silence. 

Certainly the state of simplicity and humility is the only desirable one for artist or for man. 

While to reach it may be impossible, to attempt to do so is imperative.

(Patrick White)

Babeli Giezendanner learned to draw from her father, which meant that she had a good knowledge of perspective drawing that characterizes her work.

Furthermore, she worked temporarily in Lichtensteig for the lithographer Johan Georg Schmied.

Stylistic relationships to the work of the Swiss peasant painter Johannes Müller from Stein (AR) can be proven.

He may have been one of her role models.

The artist’s oeuvre is diverse and extensive, the inventory includes around 100 works.

They include the depiction of houses and villages, alpine lifts and cattle shows.

She created numerous livery paintings and memorial sheets for birth, baptism, wedding and death.

For commemorative albums, she painted pictures and wrote poems.

The painting of umbrellas and dials of clocks has been handed down in the vernacular, but cannot be proven.

Today, many of her paintings and drawings are exhibited in the Toggenburg Museum in Lichtensteig and in the Museum Ackerhus in Ebnat-Kappel.

Very early in my life it was too late.

(Marguerite Duras, The Lover)

OnFiction: Marguerite Duras The Lover

I start to get the feeling that something is really wrong.

Like all the drugs put together – the lithium, the Prozac, the desipramine and the Desyrel that I take to sleep at night – can no longer combat whatever it is that was wrong with me in the first place. 

I feel like a defective model, like I came off the assembly line flat-out f….d and my parents should have taken me back for repairs before the warranty ran out. 

But that was so long ago.

I start to think there really is no cure for depression, that happiness is an ongoing battle, and I wonder if it isn’t one I’ll have to fight for as long as I live. 

I wonder if it’s worth it.

I start to feel like I can’t maintain the facade any longer, that I may just start to show through. 

And I wish I knew what was wrong.

Maybe something about how stupid my whole life is.

I don’t know.

(Elizabeth Wurzel, Prozac Nation)

Prozac Nation film.jpg

  • Guido Looser (1892 – 1937) was a writer.

Looser attended high school in Zürich and then studied history, German and geography at universities in Zürich and Berlin.

He then worked as a teacher in Zürich.

From 1922, he suffered increasingly from depression which led to long hospital stays in Kreuzlingen and Oetiwil.

In 1937, Looser committed suicide, given the impossibility of continuing to fund adequate hospitalization.

Guido Looser

Looser wrote novels, essays and poems, strongly influenced by his psychological suffering and revolving around illness, melancholy and death.

Looser is known for:

  • Nachglanz (Afterglow)
  • Josuas Hingabe (Joshua’s dedication)
  • Die Würde (Dignity)
  • Nur nie jemandem sagen, wohin man reist (Just never tell anyone where you are going)

Nur nie jemandem sagen, wohin man reist. Prosa - Guido Looser ...

“You only live twice: once when you are born and once when you look death in the face.”

(Ian Fleming)

Above: Ian Fleming (1908 – 1964)

Bridges over troubled waters

Bridge Over Troubled Water single.jpg

When I think of all the things he did because he loved me – what people visit on each other out of something like love. 

It is enough for all the world’s woe. 

You don’t need hate to have a perfectly miserable time.

(Richard Bausch, Mr. Field’s Daughter)

Mr. Field's Daughter: Bausch, Richard: 9780671640514: Amazon.com ...

Stein (population: 1,429) has a few sites worth viewing:

In the village centre, the 18th century church and the Appenzeller Folklore Museum with, among other things, looms and embroidery machines from the 19th century.

Wappen von Stein

Above: Coat of arms, Stein, Canton Appenzell

Between the hamlet of Störgel and the St. Gallen suburb of Haggen lies the Haggen Bridge, the highest pedestrian footbridge in Europe, which spans the 355-metre wide gorge of the Sitter at a height of 99 metres.

The structure called “Ganggelibrugg” (wobbly bridge) was actually planned for traffic between Stein and St. Gallen, but due to serious structural defects it could never be handed over to its intended purpose.

For a long time it was the most used bridge for suicide in Switzerland.

Since 2010, the bridge has been secured with nets that help prevent such tragedies.

Nearby are the Kubelbrücke (the Talking Bridge, a covered wooden bridge over the Urnäsch River in the hamlet of Kubel), the Abtebrücke (the Abbey Bridge, a covered wooden bridge over the River Sitter in the hamlet of Kubel, built by the St. Gallen Monastery) and the Hüsli covered wooden bridges across the Sitter and the Wattbach beneath the Ganggelibrugg in the hamlets of Blatten and Zweibruggen.

Also worth visiting in Stein is the Appenzeller Show Dairy, where you can watch the production of Appenzeller cheese.

(Open: 0900 – 1800 / Guided tours: Wednesday and Sundays, 1400 and 1700)

Everybody is interested (or should be) in Switzerland.

No other country in Europe offers a richer return to the Traveller for his time and effort.

To revisit Switzerland is for the old to renew one’s youth, while for the young it is to gain a lifelong sense of the inspiring grandeurs of this wonderworld.

Above: The Matterhorn

The Traveller goes to Switzerland chiefly to look at mountains, the Swiss Alps are as effectively displayed as the treasures in a well-arranged museum, but the mountains are not the only things in Switzerland.

There are the towns and cities and the people, those admirable Swiss people, who have made their land in many respects the model country of the world.

Above: Lake Lucerne, view from Pilatus

(If you are not sure about this, just ask the Swiss.)

Coat of arms of Switzerland

The sad thing is that while Switzerland may be the playground of Europe, it is not the playground of the Swiss.

Switzerland is their workshop, where they toil at many industries and practice many useful arts of which the outside world knows little.

The world knows of music boxes, cheese and watches and that the Swiss are born hotel keepers with comfort and courtesy as their watchwords.

Non-Swiss tend to dismiss Switzerland as an irrelevance in the broader sweep of European history.

Because the country is peaceful today, the assumption is that it has always been somehow inherently tranquil, but this is an illusion.

Until the middle of the 19th century, Switzerland was the most unstable country in Europe.

The Alpine calm of today came at the price of a millennium of war.

The Swiss may no longer be an offensive force, but they are defensively armed to the teeth.

The Reformation, which began in Germany in the early 16th century, was sparked in Switzerland by a native of the next town down the road….

Above: Map of the Old Swiss Confederacy 1536 showing the religious division

Within a few days I will go to the Papal Legate [Pucci], and if he shall open a conversation on the subject as he did before, I will urge him to warn the Pope not to issue an excommunication [against Luther], for which I think would be greatly against him [the Pope].

For if it be issued I believe the Germans will equally despise the Pope and the excommunication.

But do you be of good cheer, for our day will not lack those who will teach Christ faithfully, and who will give up their lives for Him willingly, even though among men their names shall not be in good repute after this life…

So far as I am concerned I look for all evil from all of them: I mean both ecclesiastics and laymen.

I beseech Christ for this one thing only, that He will enable me to endure all things courageously, and that He break me as a potter’s vessel or make me strong, as it pleased Him.

If I be excommunicated I shall think of the learned and holy Hilary, who was exiled from France to Africa, and of Lucius, who though driven from his seat at Rome returned again with great honour.

Not that I compare myself with them: for as they were better than I so they suffered what was a greater ignominy.

And yet if it were good to flourish I would rejoice to suffer insult for the name of Christ.

But let him that thinketh he standeth take heed lest he fall.

Lately I have read scarcely any thing of Luther’s, but what I have seen of his hitherto does not seem to me to stray from gospel teaching.

You know – if you remember – that what I have always spoken of in terms of the highest commendation in him is that he supports his position with authoritative witness.”

(Huldrych Zwingli)

Ulrich-Zwingli-1.jpg

Above: Portrait of Ulrich Zwingli (1484 – 1531)

Swiss city after city overthrew ecclesiastical overlords in favour of the new Protestantism, with city authorities gaining new power over the countryside in the process.

Zwingli’s attempts in 1531 to reorganize the Confederation under the urban leadership of Zürich and Bern led to armed conflict and the eventual loss of his life in battle.

The Reformation continued to spread, with Geneva – at the time not Swiss – emerging as a major centre for Protestantism, thanks to the zealotry of French priest and Reformer Jean Calvin.

Increasingly the Catholic cantons nurtured an inferiority complex towards the Protestant cities, which held a grip on political authority.

Above: Religious division of the Old Confederacy during the 17th and 18th century

Only shared economic interests keep the Swiss Confederation together.

I have mentioned the textile industry as crucial to the towns we passed through, for it was textiles, among other industries, where merchants in the cities (generally Protestant) supplied raw materials to peasants in the countryside (generally Catholic) who worked up finished products and returned them for trading on.

Wildhaus (population: 1,205) is first mentioned in 1344 as “Wildenhuss“.

In addition to tourism, agriculture and forestry from the economic focus.

The birthplace of the Reformer Huldrych Zwingli, built in 1449, is one of the oldest wooden houses in Switzerland.

(For more on Zwingli and travels following his life, please see:

Canada Slim… 

  • and the Road to Reformation
  • and the Wild Child of Toggenburg
  • and the Thundering Hollows
  • and the Battle for Switzerland’s Soul
  • and the Monks of the Dark Forest
  • and the Battlefield Brotherhood
  • and the Lakeside Pilgrimage

….of my other blog, The Chronicles of Canada Slim at https://canadaslim.wordpress.com.)

Wildhaus is both a summer and winter sports resort.

Two chair lifts and several ski lifts lead to the Gamsalp and the Gamserrugg.

The Obertoggenburg and the Churfirsten ski area, which Wildhaus operated together with Unterwasser and Alt St. Johann until separated by the Cablecar Conflict of 2019.

The 87-kilometre Toggenburger Höhenweg begins in Wildhaus and ends in Will, as does the 60-kilometre long Thurweg.

Wildhaus SG

Above: Wildhaus, Canton St. Gallen

Wildhaus is a place my wife and I have together and apart have repeatedly visited.

I have followed both the Höhenweg and the Thurweg from start to finish.

We have driven to and through Wildhaus.

On this trip we do not tarry but continue swiftly onwards.

Coat of arms of Wildhaus

Above: Coat of arms of Wildhaus

What follows is a place so seductive that an afternoon seems to stand still….

(To be continued….)

Wildhaus SG

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Wikiquote / Wikivoyage / Giovanni Boccaccio, The Decameron / Albert Camus, The Plague / Humphrey Carpenter, The Inklings / Albert M. Debrunner, Literaturführer Thurgau / Rick Steves, Travel as a Political Act / Elizabeth Wurzel, Prozac Nation / Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows

Canada Slim: Bank Bandit?

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Tuesday 5 March 2019

It is not MY hometown, so why should I care about it?

 

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Next month will mark my 9th year in this wee hamlet of 800 souls here in Thurgau Canton in Switzerland.

 

Coat of arms of Kanton Thurgau

Above: Coat of arms of Thurgau Canton

 

Flag of Switzerland

Above: Flag of Switzerland

 

Since 1 April 2010 I have seen three grocery stores, the post office and the village’s only bank completely disappear.

I am resident here but I am not a naturalized citizen, so I have no political power to protest against the demise of my resident hamlet of nine years.

 

Image result for landschlacht images

 

But to say that I am angry is an understatement.

 

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Part of the problem is modernization.

 

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Why shop in Landschlacht when cheaper shopping is only a 20-minute car drive to Konstanz, Germany?

Why post letters in Landschlacht when the nearby town of Scherzingen has a post office only a five-minute car drive or train ride away?

Why bank in Landschlacht when so many financial transactions can be done electronically?

 

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It is simply presumed that we all have automobiles and electronic gizmos so no one would notice.

 

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What we do still have in Landschlacht are a repair garage, a small trucking company, a hairdresser, a tiny pub, four restaurants and a medieval chapel, but no one expects them to remain here forever.

 

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The village is dying and no one mourns.

 

The bank closed its doors for the final time at the beginning of this year, even taking away the ATM that once stood outside.

We were told that the employees were transferred to branches to the east and west of Landschlacht and that we could do face-to-face banking in either Bottighofen (on the road to Kreuzlingen) or in the centre of Altnau (en route to Romanshorn).

On impulse I decided to visit the newly-constructed branch in Altnau.

 

Raiffeisenbank Regio Altnau

 

Now, let me be clear for the record, I have never liked banks.

 

Philippine-stock-market-board.jpg

 

As a teenager I was given a bank account in Lachute and without fail every visit I was greeted with incredulity that a high school student would have his own bank account.

Later upon entering college I attempted to open an account through which I would receive government loans for my education and only through the help of the college’s administration did the bank finally acquiesce.

I recall a number of discussions years later with other banks in other places I lived in Canada arguing with tellers and managers who would not cash legitimately issued paycheques or would surprise me with bank charges that they could never convincingly prove to me were necessary.

I watched with disgust the number of banks that needed to be bailed out of financial difficulty at the start of the Millennium and not only were they unapologetic as to the damage done to the economies of nations and individuals by their mismanagement but they maintained their arrogance throughout.

 

Above: Swiss National Bank, Bern

 

I as an employee lose my job and/or face possible prosecution if I mismanage my employer’s monies.

Banking executives simply walk away with golden parachutes.

 

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(I have never forgiven Swiss banks for the shoddy way they treated Henri Dunant, the originator of the Red Cross, reducing him to homeless penury because he was an unsuccessful Geneva banker.)

 

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Above: Henri Dunant (1828 – 1910)

 

Banks will, without remorse, take what they can from you.

Banks will, without regret, deny you whatever they can.

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And try asking for a loan….

The bank will only give you the loan only if you can afford not to have the loan.

 

 

The money you deposit with them is used as they see fit.

 

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Might as well nationalize them, for government procedures operate in much the same way.

 

And not least, but most importantly for me, is the arrogance that banks show to those who are neither rich nor powerful.

 

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Look how they strut in their suits, immaculately tailored, flawless and spotless!

Is this a place of business or the catwalk at some fashion show in Milano?

 

 

Listen to the way they speak with customers as if butter wouldn’t melt in their mouths or their farts wouldn’t stink!

So proud and haughty, so cocksure and callous!

 

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It is a miracle of literature and movies that Shawshank Redemption made me root for an imprisoned banker!

 

A man stands with his back to the viewer and arms outstretched while looking up to the sky in the rain. A tagline reads "Fear can keep you prisoner. Hope can set you free."

 

I reprint below the short story “My Financial Career” by English-born Canadian humorist Stephen Leacock (1869 – 1944) which accurately mirrors how I feel about banks:

 

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Above: Stephen Leacock

 

When I go into a bank I get rattled.

 

The clerks rattle me.

The wickets rattle me.

The sight of the money rattles me.

Everything rattles me.

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The moment I cross the threshold of a bank I am a hesitating jay.

If I attempt to transact business there I become an irresponsible idiot.

 

 

I knew this beforehand, but my salary had been raised to $50 a month and I felt that the bank was the only place for it.

 

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So I shambled in and looked timidly around at the clerks.

 

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I had an idea that a person about to open an account must needs consult the manager.

I went up to a wicket marked “Accountant“.

The Accountant was a tall, cool devil.

The very sight of him rattled me.

 

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My voice was sepulchral.

Can I see the Manager?“, I said, and added solemnly, “Alone.”

I don’t know why I said “alone“.

 

Certainly“, said the Accountant and fetched him.

The Manager was a grave, calm man.

 

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I held my $56 clutched in a crumpled ball in my pocket.

 

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Are you the Manager?“, I asked.

God knows I didn’t doubt it.

 

Can I see you?“, I asked.

Alone?

 

I didn’t want to say “alone” again, but without it the thing seemed self-evident.

 

The Manager looked at me in some alarm.

He felt that I had an awful secret to reveal.

 

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Come in here.“, he said and led the way to a private room.

He turned the key.

We are safe from interruption here.“, he said.

Sit down.”

 

We both sat down and looked at one another.

I found no voice to speak.

 

You are one of Pinkerton’s men, I presume.“, he said.

He had gathered from my mysterious manner that I was a detective.

I knew what he was thinking and it made me worse.

 

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No, not from Pinkerton’s.“, I said, seemingly to imply that I came from a rival agency.

 

To tell the truth“, I went on, as if I had been prompted to lie about it:

I am not a detective at all.

I have come to open an account.

I intend to keep all my money in this bank.

 

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The Manager looked relieved, but still serious.

He concluded now that I was a son of Baron Rothschild or a young Gould.

 

 

A large account, I suppose.“, he said.

Fairly large.“, I whispered.

I propose to deposit $56 now and $50 a month regularly.

 

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The Manager got up and opened the door.

 

He called to the Accountant.

Mr. Montgomery“, he said, unkindly loud.

This gentleman is opening an account.

He will deposit $56.

Good morning.”

 

I rose.

 

A big iron door stood open at the side of the room.

 

 

Good morning.“, I said, and stepped into the safe.

Come out!“, said the Manager coldly, and showed me the other way.

 

I went up to the accountant’s wicket and poked the ball of money at him in a quick, convulsive movement, as if I were doing a conjuring trick.

My face was ghastly pale.

Here!“, I said.

Deposit it.

The tone of the words seemed to mean:

Let us do this painful thing while the fit is on us.

 

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He took the money and gave it to another clerk.

He made me write the sum on a slip and sign my name in a book.

 

I no longer knew what I was doing.

The bank swam before my eyes.

 

Is it deposited?“, I asked in a hollow, vibrating voice.

It is.”, said the Accountant.

Then I want to draw a check.”

 

My idea was to draw $6 out of it for present use.

Someone gave me a checkbook through a wicket.

Someone else began to tell me how to write it out.

The people in the bank had the impression that I was an invalid millionaire.

 

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I wrote something on the check and thrust it in at the clerk.

He looked at it.

What!

Are you drawing it all out again?“, he asked in surprise.

 

Then I realized I had written $56 instead of $6.

 

I was too far gone to reason now.

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I had a feeling that it was impossible to explain the thing.

 

All the clerks had stopped writing to look at me.

 

Reckless with misery, I made a plunge.

 

Yes, the whole thing.

You withdraw your money from the bank?

Every cent of it.

Are you not going to deposit any more?“, asked the clerk, astonished.

Never.”

 

An idiot hope struck me that they might think something had insulted me while I was writing the check and that I had changed my mind.

I made a wretched attempt to look like a man with a fearfully quick temper.

 

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The clerk prepared to pay the money.

 

How will you have it?“, he asked.

What?

How will you have it?

Oh!

I caught his meaning, and answered, without even trying to think:

In fifties.”

He gave me a $50 bill.

And the $6?“, he asked dryly.

In sixes.”, I said.

 

He gave it me and I rushed out.

As the big doors swung behind me I caught the echo of a roar of laughter that went up to the ceiling of the bank.

 

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Since then I bank no more.

I keep my money in cash in my trousers pocket and my savings in silver dollars in a sock.

 

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Altnau, Switzerland, 27 February 2019

I don’t know whether you know Altnau.

If not, it is of no consequence, for if you know Switzerland at all, you are probably well acquainted with a dozen towns just like it.

 

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There it lies in the sunlight (or too often within a fog), sloping up from Lake Constance that stretches out from the foot of the hillside on which the town is built.

 

 

There is a wharf beside the Lake and lying alongside are yachts (or boats with aspirations and illusions of being yachts) that go nowhere in particular for the Lake is landlocked and only serves to bottleneck the Rhine River flowing from the mystic reaches of the Swiss Alps to kiss the shores of Austria, Germany and Switzerland, before it squeezes itself back into river-form to crash dramatically down upon rugged rocks at Schaffhausen then vibrantly flow onwards without ceasing to mingle itself into the North Sea in the distant delta of the Dutch nation.

 

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Altnau has a population of 2,200.

15.5% of the population are foreign nationals.

So, one would think that the folks in Altnau would be experienced diplomats when it comes to foreigners in their midst.

If the bank I visited in Altnau is any indication….

This is not so.

 

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Even before I visited the soulless post-modernist eyesore Altnau building, I was already missing our wee little Landschlacht branch, for our village depository, of hopes and dreams and accounts embarrassingly unimpressive, lay just down the street upon which I live and it was gloriously convenient.

Though we might not have gone inside the establishment itself as the aforementioned ATM lay outside the doors, just knowing that it was here in Landschlacht gave us a sense of security.

Our money lay within the village, or so our mythologies imagined, and we could play with it whenever we so choose.

 

 

Our tellers knew us by name and we them and we entertained the notion of donning sackcloth and ashes when we were told last year that the branch would close.

 

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My wife is a techno-tot like so many of her generation, so doing banking online is something she feels no insecurity with.

 

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But I am not made this way.

 

I want my money handled personally and personably, because, damn it all, it was made by the sweat on my brow.

I want to see a name tag and perhaps even shake the hand of another human being.

And though the handshakes were rare in Landschlacht, as the teller’s wicket was surrounded by bullet thick glass, still the ability to see into the inner workings of the bank somehow leant that personal touch to the whole banking process.

 

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Even before I entered the Altnau branch I was in the foulest of moods.

 

The Landschlacht branch, as I have said, was just down the street from where we live.

The Altnau branch is a far cry from being convenient.

 

There is a bus that stops outside the door, but not even God Himself can actually decipher when said bus stops there or from where said bus can be boarded.

So, the most practical method for the pedestrian-passenger is to trudge uphill from the Altnau Bahnhof Station.

The branch deceptively assures the innocent that its Bahnhofstrasse address infers that the bank is therefore nicely located not-so-faraway from the Station.

This ain’t the case.

I trudged and dragged my sorry ass uphill, in a seemingly ending ascent to a bank that stubbornly refused to show itself.

 

 

Upon finally arriving at the secret location I am further soured against this entire endeavour by the sheer impersonality of the place.

From the station direction approach there is the niggling nuisance of not immediately seeing where the bank entryway is.

The entry is built in such a way that only upon drawing close to the endless facade of glass windows does one realize that there is an automated door system that sighs, exasperated, with my blind idiocy in failing to detecting its “obvious” presence.

 

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I enter disoriented and am greeted by a vast expanse where a desk, much like a military guardpost, squats dominating the ground floor.

This is the point of no further egress beyond without official permission.

 

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A surly service lady looks at me both curiously and incuriously at my thoughtless interruption of her preferred solitude.

The atmosphere is as welcoming as an Arctic icefloe to an oncoming cruise liner.

 

 

I march up to the lady, bold as brass, and say I want to deposit money into our account as I had taken too much out the week previous.

She leads me to an ATM that went unnoticed when I came in.

 

 

What is the point of having a teller when I am forced to do everything via the ATM?

At least in Landschlacht I could choose between a person and a machine.

 

When did machines become more important than people?

 

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(I have noticed the same impersonal system at the St. Gallen Main Library.

 

The librarian won’t check borrowed material out for you.

You have to march yourself to a barcode reading machine and do the procedure yourself.

 

The librarian won’t help you find materials.

You are directed to an electronic catalogue monitor.

 

Why bother with librarians at all then?

Why not let a machine stack the books?

For, besides this duty, there is actually very little work left for a librarian to do.

 

Which makes me again wonder….

What is the point of having customer service if I have to serve myself?)

 

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I am rattled by the uncooperative attitude of this, my involutarily assigned, branch.

Here, with the sole exception of Ms. Surly, offices and operations are hidden from customer eyes.

Which my suspicious mind ponders whether they have something to hide….

 

Annoyed I go to the ATM and proceed to deposit money into our joint account.

Stupidly, I deposit said amount into my private account.

Realizing my error I turn to the human surly service.

Impatiently then the ATM seizes my card because I was too tardy in retrieving it.

 

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Now I have to wait while so-put-upon Ms. Surly excuses herself, disappears somewhere into the belly of the banking beast and emerges with another lady as equally disheartening as Ms. Surly.

 

While Ms. Longsuffering goes into a room secreted behind the ATM, Ms. Surly and I are left to do something neither of us really wants to do….

Talk to one another.

 

I feel waves of superiority and disdain descend upon me.

 

Unlike Leacock, no one in Altnau believes I am a detective.

 

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I am neither smart nor Swiss enough to fool anyone into thinking I am an Inspector Barlach type from a Dürrenmatt mystery.

 

Dürrenmatt in 1989

Above: Friedrich Dürrenmatt (1921 – 1990)

 

Certainly Barlach would have had no problem catching me had I chosen to become a bank bandit, for not only does my accent and loud voice identify me as a foreigner but I stand at a height of 6’5″ (194 cm) so picking me out of a police line-up would be child’s play.

In fact it is an awareness of my fear factor that has lead me over the years to become as comical and charming as humanly possible so as to dispell any disquiet my hulking presence might create.

 

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But I would be lying if I said that all my unpleasant experiences with banks haven’t harboured desires within me to enact vengence upon these parasitic pompous institutions who profit from everyone else’s labours.

 

My foster mother had always told me that an idea in the mind is the seed of the actual deed, but I would never become a bank bandit.

And not just for the fact that I would be easily caught, but for the sad reality that a robbery would not ruffle any feathers.

Banks are insured against robbery so the best that a bandit could do is inconvenience a branch for a time.

They would be open for business the following banking day.

 

A man wearing a hat and a longcoat, a large gun held in his right hand

 

In no way, shape or form, did Ms. Surly or Ms. Longsuffering believe that I was some sort of Rockefeller slumming it in Switzerland nor was anyone fooled into thinking I was some distant relative of the Trumps.

Altnau Raiffeisen saw no great advantage in handling my account nor great disadvantage in dealing with me disdainfully.

 

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So when I spoke of my disappointment with Raiffeisen’s decision to close our Landschlacht location, Ms. Surly surely didn’t give a damn.

Telling her that it would have been infinitely more courteous for the bank to consult the local Landschlacht resident bank members before deciding to close our branch only produced in her an unconcealed “Har-rumph” sound that telegraphed the ridicule she felt over my suggestion.

Bank managers consulting customers?

Was I insane?

 

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Not only was my opinion invalid by virtue that those with power care little for those they control, but my status as a non-millionaire meant a withdrawl of my custom from the bank would be as ineffective an injury as a mosquito charging a tank.

 

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I also had no doubt that had I been a man with a fearfully quick temper, Ms. Surly surely would have had me quickly evicted from the premises by some burly bully of a security guard.

 

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My card was retrieved and returned to my person and I found myself with no excuse to linger within the sterile confines of the Altnau branch.

 

I sorely wish I could be like Leacock and bank no more, but I live in an age where my salary and bills are both handled electronically through the medium of banks.

Only a homeless hobo has the freedom to avoid this age of digital de-personalization which ironically makes the hobo a non-person as he isn’t electronically existent.

 

 

So I will, because I have no choice in the matter, continue to bank at the Altnau (or Bottighofen) branch.

Just don’t expect me to like it.

 

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Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Stephan Leacock, “My Financial Career“, Literary Lapses