Canada Slim and the Universal Language

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Wednesday 14 December 2022

Go forth.“, the Prophet said.

Perform the march with bow and arrow.

Be in God’s protection and safety.

Receive these good tidings.

Of all the spirits you met in this assembly and whose hands you kissed, you are vouchsafed to visit their tombs.

You will be a world traveller and unique among men.

The well-protected kingdoms through which you pass, the fortresses and towns, the strange and wonderful moments, each land’s praiseworthy qualities and products, its food and drink, its latitude and longitude:

Record all of these and compose a wonderful work.

Make use of my weapon and become my son in this world and the next.

Do not abandon the path of truth.

Be free of envy and hatred.

Pay the due of bread and salt.

Be a faithful friend but no friend to the wicked.

Learn goodness from the good.

Evliya Çelebi, The Book of Travels

Sometimes a man just needs to be surrounded by beauty.

This is why it is nice to work in a school where half the staff and half of our students are female.

This is why it is nice to occasionally see the wife from time to time.

This is why, despite some standards of behaviour exhibited by the locals I could live without, I look forward to visiting Switzerland again at the beginning of next month.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Certainly the wife and I will do a spot of travelling – to Freiburg im Breisgau and Konstanz (Germany) and to Zürich (the New York of Switzerland) – but I am also looking forward to simply strolling upon country roads between the neighbouring village of Münsterlingen to the west of the hamlet (where our residence remains) and Altnau to the east.

Above: Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Rheintorturm (Rhine Gate Tower), Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Oberdorf (Upper Town), Altnau, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

I began, not so long ago, a travelogue of a journey from Landschlacht to Mürren, commencing with Landschlacht itself, for I seek to show my gentle readers that there is magic and depth in even the most mundane (at first glance) of ordinary communities – whether they be in Canada, Switzerland or Vietnam.

Above: Landschlacht (Münsterlingen), Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Mürren, Canton Bern, Switzerland

The first destination the traveller meets in leaving Landschlacht bound for Mürren via the scenic route is Altnau – “the next town over” as one might say in Canada.

Above: Beyond the bend of the highway, beneath the glory of the heavens, Altnau

Altnau is a town (and a municipality in the district of Kreuzlingen in the Canton of Thurgau in Switzerland.

Above: Coat of arms of Altnau

Above: Flag of Canton Thurgau

The Kirchdorf (church settlement) consists of the upper and lower villages and other settlements. 

Above: Swiss Reformed Church, Altnau

It is located on the old Romanshorn – Kreuzlingen Road near the southern shore of the Bodensee (Lake Constance) on the moraine of the former Rhine Glacier. 

Above: Harbour, Romanshorn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Kreuzlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Satellite image of the Bodensee (Lake Constance)

Above: Map of the Rhine Glacier

The actual centre of Altnau is around two kilometers from the shore of the Bodensee, at 471 metres above sea level. 

It borders on the municipalities of Güttingen, Langrickenbach and Münsterlingen. 

Above: Location of Altnau Municipality (in pink)

Altnau has a train station on the Kreuzlingen – Romanshorn railway (or to be precise, the Schaffhausen – Wil rail line).

Above: Altnau Station

Above: Schaffhausen, Canton Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Above: Wil, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

In 787 the village was first mentioned as Althinouva (Aldo’s land by the water).

In the 8th century, the Monastery of St. Gallen was made wealthy here. 

Above: Abbey Cathedral of St. Gallen, St. Gallen, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

In 1155, Emperor Frederick Barbarossa confirmed that the Cathedral in Konstanz owned the property rights to the Altnau court and church. 

Above: (seated) Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa (1122 – 1190)

Above: Konstanz Cathedral

The noble rights over the University of Konstanz lands here, which belonged to the Freiherren (free lords) von Altenklingen around 1300, passed to various Konstanz families in the Late Middle Ages (1378: family Schwarz / 1430: family Tettikofen / 1468 family Mangolt). 

Above: Logo of the University of Konstanz

From 1471 to 1798, Altnau was held by the city of Konstanz. 

Above: Coat of arms of the City of Konstanz

In 1454, Altnau was included in the Appenzeller Landrecht (law courts), but had to give these rights up after a complaint from the Cathedral chapter.

Above: Flag of Appenzell

The parish rights passed in 1347 from the Cathedral Provost to the Cathedral Dean. 

After the Reformation in 1528, the few Catholics that remained here were cared for from Konstanz, with the Altnau church shared between both Catholics and Protestants.

In 1810 the parity relationship was dissolved and two churches were built. 

Above: Martin Luther (1483 – 1546), pioneer of the Protestant Reformation

The rights of the village were first handed down in 1468. 

Above: Aerial view of Altnau (1924)

In the 19th century, farmers switched from three field grain production to livestock and dairy production.

Above: The three-field system of crop rotation

In 1880 a dairy company was established. 

The viticulture (wine industry), which had been in operation since the Middle Ages came to an end in 1912. 

Above: Altnau viticulture

Field fruit growing was documented in the 19th century:

After 1945, the high stems were replaced by extensive low stem cultures. 

Above: Altnau apple production

Like the Lake Road built around 1840, the Lake Rail Line opened in 1870 brought little upswing in the village because the station was too far away. 

All regional trains between Schaffhausen and Wil – via Kreuzlingen, Romanshorn and St.Gallen – stop at Altnau Station. 

Regional trains run every half hour.

Above: Two Thurbo GTW 2/6 crossing the bridge over the Rhine between Schaffhausen and Feuerthalen, Switzerland

Main road number 13 runs between the Town and the Lake, which leads from Schaffhausen via Kreuzlingen and on to Romanshorn and Rorschach.

There is a port, but no pier for scheduled boats on the Bodensee.

 

Above: Rorschach, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Until the middle of the 20th century, the village was heavily agricultural. 

Nevertheless, industry moved in. 

From 1870 to 1910, numerous Altnau residents worked as hand embroiderers, in 1882 and 1910 the Altwegg and Walser embroidery factories were established, and from 1883 to 1967 the Sallmann knitwear factory offered numerous jobs and employed 17 people in 1883, 60 in 1895 and 41 in 1923. 

The Setafil silk weaving mill, which opened in 1948, ceased production in 1974. 

Above: This 1881 painting (by Emil Rittmeyer) shows the embroidery world trade in the second half of the 19th century.

Left: Embroidery patterns, then factories, the locomotive used for transporting the goods, the installation of a telegraph line.

On the right side, the embroidery is presented to the representatives of all continents.

In 1977, a mechanical engineering company set up in the boatyard built in 1964. 

Above: Altnau Boatyard

In 2016, Altnau offered work to 577 people (converted to full-time positions). 

Of these, 12.9% worked in agriculture and forestry, 27.1% in industry, commerce and construction and 59.9% in the service sector. 

Worth mentioning are:

  • the Reformed Church
  • the Catholic Church 
  • the Apfelweg (Apple Trail), the first fruit nature trail in Switzerland, is a nine-kilometre-long circular route that leads through the local orchards and explains the path of the apple from blossom to fruit on 16 boards. 
  • the ship jetty, which has existed since 2010 and is 270 meters long due to the wide shallow water zone – making it the longest jetty on the Bodensee – it is nicknamed the Bodensee Eiffel Tower, because of its length

Above: Altnau Jetty

Above: Tour Eiffel, Paris, France

The Thurgau village of Altnau is surrounded by gently rolling apple orchards.

Altnau has been breeding, cultivating and processing Jonagold, Gala or Braeburn for generations. 

Above: Gala apples

Above: Braeburn apple

Visitors can find out why apples thrive particularly well here at the information boards along the Altnau Apple Trail. 

The revised adventure trail extends the previous fruit trail and can be explored on foot, by bike or in a horse-drawn carriage. 

Game tips and hands-on activities along the routes are aimed specifically at families with children. 

The tour is particularly beautiful during the apple blossom season in spring or harvest time in autumn.

The starting point of the Apple Trail is at the foot of Altnau, 500 meters from the train station. 

The Altnauer Apfelweg consists of three routes that can be combined to form circular routes of five, six or seven kilometres. 

There is an apple mascot for every path:

East of Altnau, the apple path meanders through the apple orchards beneath the bright red “Lisi” apple. 

The 14 stations tell exciting things about fruit growing and the work of the fruit growers all year round. 

The yellow route with the mascot “Fredi” leads through the middle of the village and presents different types of apples and pears. 

With riddles, recipes and anecdotes, every walk flies by. 

On the green “Emma” route west of Altnau, apple fans meet wild and honey bees and learn a lot about the Thurgau fruit region and the history and cultivation of the crunchy fruit. 

On the red and green routes, Lisi and Emma invite the children balancing on tree trunks, looking for fruit pairs or exploring the earth. 

Fredi inspires on the yellow route with variety information, puzzles and fun. 

The themed trail is varied and offers the best conditions for a trip with the whole family.

Apple path Lisi: The red route, four kilometers long, takes about two hours on foot or one hour by bike. It runs east of Altnau, the main focus is the work of the fruit growers.

Apple path Emma: The green, three-kilometre route takes about an hour and a half on foot and 40 minutes by bike. To the west of the village, she reveals interesting facts about fruit growing, the apple village of Altnau and Thurgau.

Apple path Fredi: The yellow route leads right through the village. Pedestrians need about an hour for the two kilometers. The path is not suitable for cyclists.

Farm shops, restaurants and pubs in and around Altnau offer sweet cider, apple rings and other delicious fruit creations. 

If you run out of breath on the way, you can rest on the numerous benches, rest areas and picnic areas along the route – mostly in front of a wonderful panorama of the Bodensee. 

A tip is the Feierlenhof in Altnau, where the Barth family has been welcoming guests to their own farm for several generations. 

A petting zoo delights children and animal lovers alike.

Above: Feierlenhof, Altnau

The Bodensee has always been considered a transport axis for a wide variety of goods, which were transported by barge. 

Since Eastern Switzerland mainly traded in textiles, it was dependent on a functioning trade in food stuffs, mainly grain. 

Due to the fluctuating water level between summer and winter, a summer and a winter landing site had to be built. 

A pier was built near today’s Altnau, the “Stelli“. 

With the onset of industrialization, ship trade became less relevant as the railroad was faster and easier. 

This also had an effect on the shipping trade on the Bodensee.

Winter ports were no longer used by ships, which is why the Stelli was destroyed by the water over time and sank.

Above: Construction of the Altnau Jetty

The Stelli, which can still be seen with the naked eye today, was examined in 2012 by a diving team from the Thurgau Archaeology Office, who measured the remains, had these results recorded and recovered samples for dating tree rings. 

The salvage showed that the Stelli was an L-shape with two legs, each 10 and 25 meters long. 

It consisted of spruce poles, which were fastened with the tops of the bottom of the lake.

Crosspieces and quarry stones were filled in between the posts.

Rorschach sandstone slabs were placed on top.

It is assumed that the origin of the Stelli goes back to the 17th century. 

The shore of the Municipality of Altnau stretches along the Obersee (upper part of the Bodensee) from northwest to southeast. 

The Altnauer Steg (jetty) is at a right angle to this, so it points to the northeast. 

By raising the ridge of the Lake, Altnau Harbour area is covered to the south and west.

Above: Altnau Jetty

The distance to the next town bordering the lake in the northwest, Kreuzlingen, is around 7.5 kilometers and to the next in the southeast, Romanshorn, around 10 kilometers. 

At least six kilometers must be covered to cross the Lake to Hagnau on the German side of the Bodensee.

Above: Hagnau am Bodensee, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

In contrast to other Swiss inland lakes, the Bodensee does not have a uniform shipping company, but rather several different shipping companies. 

This is due to the location of the Bodensee, because this (specifically the Obersee) is shared by the three countries Germany (Deutschland), Switzerland (Schweiz) and Austria (Österreich).

Above: Map of the Bodensee (Lake Constance)

During the shipping season, the Altnauer Jetty is used by the Romanshorn – Immenstaad – Hagnau – Altnau – Güttingen route.

Above: Immenstaad am Bodensee, Baden-Württemberg, Germany (in winter)

Above: Güttingen Castle, Güttingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

For residents of the municipality of Altnau and the surrounding area as well as for tourists, the footbridge serves as a good leisure offer. 

Provided with a bathing platform at the jetty, another one to the east and several descent possibilities, swimming in the Lake is made possible in the summer season. 

In the event of an emergency, rescue equipment for drowning people is distributed on the railing.

In addition, hobby anglers do not want to fish at the jetty.

Above: The way to Hagnau, Altnau Jetty

As early as 1994, a working group from the municipality of Altnau expressed the desire for a new shipping pier. 

The purpose behind this was that the attractiveness of the community should be promoted. 

In Altnau there is a very large campground, which is particularly busy in the height of summer. 

In this season many people in Altnau go to the Lake to swim. 

Altogether there are up to 2,000 people in the vicinity of the port during the warmest time of the year.

A positive factor was that, according to a 2007 study for additional shipping piers on the Bodensee, Altnau was the location between Kreuzlingen and Horn that would have the lowest environmental impact. 

Shipping also benefited from the immediate increase in tourist attractiveness. 

Above: Horn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

At Altnau Harbour in the direction of the middle of the Lake there is a flat shore, which made the construction of such a long jetty necessary. 

The ground was measured and evaluated by means of probing in 2007. 

The Dr. Vollenweider organization divides the ground into three stratified phases:

  • Young lake deposits: Consisting of slightly clay, relatively fine sandy silt loosely layered with a high water concentration. The layer height is between two and three meters on the bank, further away it increases up to ten meters.
  • Postglacial lake deposits: Consisting of strong clay silts with little fine sand soft to slightly resistant. The layer height is about two meters at the bank and increases up to six meters at a greater distance.
  • Moraine: Consisting of little clay, very silty-fine sand with a high proportion of gravel and stones

Above: Harbour, Altnau

The walkable area of ​​the jetty is 398 meters above sea level and therefore around two meters higher than the summer water level. 

A height of 15 centimeters of concrete can be seen on the side.

The maximum height is 35 centimeters. 

The bridge is founded with hollow concrete piles, each with a diameter of 35 centimetres. 

These stand in pairs 12 meters apart. 

While the western stake is driven vertically into the ground, the eastern stake has a 5º inclination.

The moraine, which is not too deep, is responsible for holding and fixing these.

Barriers are installed on both sides along the jetty. 

The two railings vary from each other. 

The western railing is half solid / half transparent, with a guided chrome steel handrail. 

On the one hand, this heavily protected site is intended to provide security.

On the other hand, it is to prevent disturbances to aquatic animals.

The eastern side, on the other hand, is supported only by longitudinal wire cables – no handrail. 

There is a gap in the area of ​​the bathing platform so that access to it is freely possible.

Above: Altnau Jetty

Canton Thurgau Facts:

  • 900 km of marked cycle paths
  • 1,000 km of hiking trails
  • 150 km of inline skating routes
  • 72 km of shoreline on Lake Constance
  • 200 kinds of apples
  • 210,000 standard apple trees
  • 1,600 hectares of orchards

Romping about in flowering meadows, playing knights and experiencing unforgettable farm adventures:

In Thurgau, even young visitors never get bored. 

The idyllic surroundings and a wide range of leisure activities ensure lots of holiday fun. 

With over 72 kilometers of shoreline, Thurgau also has the longest bathing beach on the Bodensee

The landscape is green and flat everywhere – ideal for bike tours with the family.

When swimming, hiking or cycling, holiday guests can feel nature up close. 

The southern part of the Bodensee stretches out in lush greenery:

Meadow orchards let the petals dance in spring.

In autumn the fruit falls heavily onto the grass.

Anyone who drives further up into the hills will experience new perspectives and very special adventures. 

The ancient cultural landscape also harbors a wealth of treasures:

From pile dwellings to Roman forts, medieval chapels and monasteries to imperial parks and gardens.

First-class wines from local winegrowers, fresh fish from the Bodensee and a multitude of other culinary specialties spoil the palate in Thurgau. 

Whether gourmet restaurant, country inn or rustic Buure-Beiz – Thurgau makes connoisseurs’ hearts beat faster. 

Excellent wines also thrive on the vineyard slopes along the Untersee (Lower Lake), the Rhine and also on sunny Ottenberg near Weinfelden. 

The grape variety Müller Thurgau, which is also called Riesling Sylvaner in this country, has its origins in Thurgau.

Let us raise a glass in memory of one of Altnau’s own, Hans Baumgartner.

Hans Baumgartner (1911 – 1996) was a Swiss photographer and teacher.

Above: Hans Baumgartner

Hans Baumgartner was born in Altnau. 

He trained as a teacher at the Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen (teacher training college) and at the University of Zürich.

Above: Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen buildings constructed in the 1970s

Above: Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen in the former Kreuzlingen Monastery

Above: Logo of the University of Zürich

From 1937 until his retirement he worked as a teacher, until 1962 in Steckborn, later in Frauenfeld.

Above: Steckborn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Frauenfeld, capital of Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Baumgartner’s first photographs were taken in 1929.

Above: Zürich (1936), Hans Baumgartner photo

The journalist Arnold Kübler discovered him in the early 1930s. 

Above: Arnold Kübler

(Arnold Kübler (1890 – 1983) was a Swiss writer, draftsman and journalist. 

He founded the cultural magazine Du (you) in 1941.

Arnold Kübler grew up as the son of an innkeeper and farmer in Wiesendangen.

 

Above: Wiesendangen, Canton Zürich, Switzerland (1934)

He broke off his geology studies and training as a sculptor. 

After World War I, he worked as an actor in Dresden and Berlin. 

He had to give up this career in 1926 after an operation due to scars on his face. 

In 1927, he married Alva Jessen (1887 – 1965). 

The couple had three children: Jörn Kübler (1922 – 1975), Olaf Kübler (1924 – 1987) and Ursula Kübler (1928 – 2010). 

Above: Images of Dresden, Sachsen, Germany

Above: Berlin, Germany

Kübler was able to celebrate greater success with his literary and journalistic work. 

He was appointed editor-in-chief of the Zürcher Illustrierte (Zurich Illustrated) in 1929, which under his lead developed into a respected literary and photographic magazine.

He was convinced that a photograph can also be a vehicle of a message. 

He worked with prominent photographers Paul Senn and Gotthard Schuh among others.)

Above: Paul Senn

(Paul Senn (1901 – 1953) was a Swiss photographer.

After attending school in the city of Bern, Senn learned the trade of advertising draftsman and re-toucher around 1917. 

Above: Bern, Switzerland

After completing his education, he worked in various European cities and from 1922 as a graphic artist in Lyon, France. 

Above: Images of Lyon, France

In 1924, he became picture editor at the Basler Nachrichten (Basel News), where his first photos appeared. 

In 1927 and 1928 he stayed in Milan, Genoa, Germany, Belgium, France and Barcelona. 

Above: Images of Milano (Milan), Italy

Above: Piazza de Ferrari, Genova (Genoa), Italy

Above: Flag of Germany

Above: Flag of Belgium

Above: Flag of France

Above: Images of Barcelona, Spain

After these trips he opened his own graphics and advertising studio in Bern. 

In the 1930s, Senn worked as a photo reporter for the Zürcher Illustrierte and the Berner Illustrierte.

Senn traveled to France, Italy, Spain and the Balkans. 

Above: Flag of Italy

Above: Flag of Spain

Above: Map of the Balkan Peninsula

In 1937, Senn accompanied an aid convoy from the Swiss Aid Committee for the Children of Spain to the war zone of the Spanish Civil War and reported on it in a special issue of the Zürcher Illustrierte

Above: Images of the Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939)

In 1939, he travelled to the US.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

During the Second World War, Senn did active service as an army photographer in the Heer und Haus (Army and Home) division.)

Above: Bronze statue “Morning readiness“, erected in 1941 to celebrate the 650th anniversary of the Swiss Confederation in the park of the Federal Archives in Schwyz (Switzerland)

(In order to strengthen the spirit of the troops, Swiss Army General Henri Guisan ordered the formation of the Army and Home section, a kind of psychological service.

This had the task of maintaining the military will of the troops through lectures and entertainment, even during long military service. 

In the army order of 3 November 1939, he wrote: 

It is absolutely necessary that the troops, despite long service and regardless of the separation of family and work, maintain an elevated state of mind. 

Free from nagging doubts and discouragements, the soldier should maintain equanimity and confidence.

With the formula “Think Swiss and act Swiss”, the “civilian reconnaissance service expanded and launched a campaign to educate the civilian population. 

For this purpose, cadres were recruited from around news agencies and resistance organizations.

Above: Henri Guisan (1874 – 1960)

Army and Home tried to strengthen the will to resist in the population and to supplement the role of the war-censored press. 

Firstly, it was about the “communication of facts” from which the citizen should form his own opinion.

Secondly, the “communication of bases for the discussion” as a means of forming opinions in a democracy, in contrast to propaganda, agitation and terror, which are the methods used by totalitarian states to subdue their subjects.

It organized around 3,000 two-day educational courses, as well as lectures, performances, sporting events and film and radio screenings. 

The 200 voluntary speakers came from all political camps, regions and professions. 

For the lecturing activity of the commanders, Army and Home issued military service letters, which not only called for resistance against the totalitarian threat, but also took a stand for the old custom of granting asylum (December 1942) or against anti-Semitism (May 1943). 

More than 7,000 shop stewards recruited in the lectures distributed the documentation published by the Army and Home in their sphere of activity and gave regular feedback on the respective mood in the population.

In the army order of November 1939, Guisan also gave didactic instructions for Army and Home officers and the unit commanders:

I consider it essential that there is a clear separation between serious lectures, which require constant attention, and purely entertaining events. 

The former belong in working hours, the others in leisure time. 

Both are important, sometimes to teach, sometimes to amuse. 

Teaching does not mean imposing any theories, but rather stimulating thoughts and challenging reflections. 

It is a question of showing the team, above all using concrete examples, the tangible and spiritual reality of Switzerland, its honorable past, the military traditions, honoring our heroes, artists, scientists, pointing out the high level of culture that it has achieved and on to indicate their destiny in this world.

For the historian Peter Dürrenmatt and other contemporary observers, between 1941 and 1945, Army and Home made a decisive contribution to maintaining and strengthening intellectual resilience: 

One can say that never before in the history of the Confederation has there been a movement of anything remotely similar in creative unity existed, like those that formed around the Army’s reconnaissance service, around the idea of ​​’Army and Home’.)

Above: Peter Dürrenmatt (1904 – 1989)

(After the Zürcher Illustrierte was forced to cease publication in 1941, Senn worked for the Schweizer Illustrierte (Switzerland Illustrated) and for Sie + Er (She and He). 

From 1942 to 1944, Senn travelled to southern France several times and reported on the activities of Swiss relief organizations and the construction work in Lyon. 

Above: Lyon, France

After the end of the war in 1945, Paul Senn travelled to the European war zones on behalf of the Swiss Red Cross and the Swiss Donation to War Victims, taking photographs in France and Germany.

Above: Logo of the Swiss Donation

In 1946, Senn stayed in the US for Schweizer Illustrierte, visiting New York and the Swiss Colonies. 

Above: Harlem, New York City, New York, USA (1946) – Paul Senn photograph

(Most immigration from Switzerland took place mainly in the second half of the 19th century. 

The reasons for this were mostly economic in nature, Switzerland was considered one of the poorest countries in Europe at the time.

By 1820, around 25,000 Swiss had immigrated, mainly with the destination of Pennsylvania and the Carolinas. 

Above: Swiss migrants in the US (1946), Paul Senn photograph

In general, the target in the 19th century was the Midwest and the Pacific coast. 

The Italian-speaking Swiss preferred California. 

Some Swiss settlements were established, such as New Glarus (Wisconsin), Gruetli-Laager (Tennessee) and New Bern (North Carolina)(“the birthplace of Pepsi“). )

Above: Flag throwing and Alphorn blowing, New Glarus, Wisconsin, USA

Above: Historical marker, Gruetli-Laager, Tennessee, USA

Above: City Hall, New Bern, North Carolina, USA

Above: Classroom scene, New Bern

In 1947, Senn went to Finland and Germany at the invitation of the Swiss Donation and documented the reconstruction. 

Above: Flag of Finland

In 1950, trips to Germany, France, Italy and England followed. 

Above: Flag of England

In 1951, he founded the College of Swiss Photographers with Werner Bischof, Gotthard Schuh and Jakob Tuggener. 

In 1952 he became a member of the Schweizerischer Werkbund (SWB) (Swiss Work Association) (an association of artists, cultural mediators and other specialists in the field of design).

On 25 April 1953, Senn died of cancer in the Zieglerspital in Bern.)

Above: Zieglerspital (1868 – 2015), Bern, Switzerland

(Gotthard Schuh (1897 – 1969) was a Swiss photographer, painter and graphic artist.

Above: Gotthard Schuh

Gotthard Schuh was born in Berlin to Swiss parents. 

His father was the engineer Christian Heinrich Schuh. 

In 1902 the family moved to Aarau, where he attended school.

Above: Aarau, Canton Aargau, Switzerland

From 1914, he began to paint. 

In 1916, he graduated from the trade school (now the site of the Basel Trade Museum) in Basel. 

Above: Gewerbemuseum, Basel, Switzerland

In 1917, Schuh was drafted as a soldier for border service until the end of the First World War.

Above: Kilometre Zero -where the Swiss border met the Western Front, World War I (1914 – 1918)

From 1919, he lived as a painter in Basel and Geneva. 

Above: Basel, Switzerland

Above: Genève (Geneva), Switzerland

After a long trip to Italy in 1920, he settled in Munich as a painter. 

Above: München (Munich), Bayern (Bavaria), Germany

In 1926, he returned to Switzerland and became manager of a photo shop.

After his marriage in 1927 he moved to Zürich, where he began to take photographs. 

Various exhibitions as a painter followed from 1928 to 1931, during which time he joined the Basel artist group Rot-Blau (red-blue). 

Above: Albert Müller (1897 – 1926)(Rot-Blau), Vineyards in Ticino (1925)

In 1931 his first photos were published in the Zürcher Illustrierte.

 

Above: Gotthard Schuh photograph of Swiss author Friedrich Glauser (1896 – 1938), Zürcher Illustrierte, (3 December 1937)

A picture exhibition followed in Paris in 1932, where he met Pablo Picasso, Fernand Léger and Georges Braque.

Above: Spanish artist Pablo Picasso (1881 – 1973)

Above: French artist Fernand Léger (1881 – 1955)

Above: French artist Georges Braque (1882 – 1963)

From 1933 to 1939, Schuh worked as a freelance photojournalist for the Zürcher Illustrierte, Berliner Illustriete (1892 – 1945), Paris Match and Life (1883 – 2000). 

His reports took him all over Europe and to Indonesia. 

Above: Flag of the European Union

Above: Flag of Indonesia

From 1941 to 1960 he was picture editor at the Neue Züricher Zeitung (NZZ). 

From this period a significant part of his own photographic work illustrated books, of which the most successful was Inseln der Götter (Island of the Gods) published in 1941, the result of his almost 11-month journey through Singapore, Java, Sumatra and Bali undertaken just before the war. 

It was a mixture of reportage and self-reflection, with a poetic quality that, though individual images may be read either way, Schuh sometimes valued over documentary authenticity:

Everyone just depicts what he sees.

Everyone just sees what corresponds to his being.

In 1951, he founded the College of Swiss Photographers together with Werner Bischof, Paul Senn and Jakob Tuggener.

After 1960, Schuh turned to painting again. 

Schuh died in Küsnacht by the Zürchersee (Lake Zurich) in 1969.)

Above: Küsnacht, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

(Werner Bischof (1916 – 1954) was a Swiss photographer and one of the most famous photojournalists of the 20th century.

Above: Werner Bischof

Bischof, son of a merchant, grew up first in Zürich and Kilchberg (Canton Zürich) in Switzerland, but spent his school days in Waldshut (Germany). 

Above: Kilchberg, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Kaiserstrasse (Emperor Street), Waldshut, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

His father had been manager of a branch of a Zürich pharmaceutical factory there since 1922. 

This time was overshadowed by the early death of his mother. 

He attended teachers’ college in Schiers (Canton Graubünden) to become a drawing and physical education teacher. 

Above: Evangelische Mittelschule (EMS), Schiers, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

At the age of 16, Bischof switched to studying at the Zürich School of Applied Arts. 

In 1936, he received his diploma with distinction as a photographer and, after basic training with the Swiss Army, opened in Zürich a studio for fashion and advertising photography. 

After interludes as an employee at a Zurich publishing house, a freelance artist for the Swiss National Exhibition in 1939 and a graphic designer in Paris, he was drafted into military service in Switzerland in 1939. 

In short phases between military deployments, he devoted himself to photographing natural motifs.

In 1942, Bischof published his first photos in the then new monthly magazine Du.

In autumn 1945, he traveled to southern Germany, France and the Netherlands.

He was deeply moved by the hardship in the regions badly affected by the Second World War. 

On behalf of the Swiss Donation he reported on the victims of war-destroyed Europe.

Above: Boy drawing in the ruins, Freiburg im Breisgau, Werner Bischof photographer

In 1948, Bischof represented Time magazine at the St. Moritz Winter Olympics. 

In 1949, his documentary photographs were published in Life magazine.

Bischof joined the newly formed photographers’ cooperative Magnum Photos. 

From 1951, he traveled to the Middle East (famine in Bihar, India) and the Far East (Japan and Korea). 

Above: Seal of the Indian state of Bihar

Above: Flag of Japan

Above: Flag of South Korea

He was a war correspondent for Paris Match magazine during the Indochina War (1946 – 1954). 

Above: French Foreign Legionnaires with a suspected Viet Minh supporter

In 1953, he began a journey through the American continent that had been planned for a long time, visiting and photographing Mexico and Panama and Peru.

Above: Flag of Mexico

Above: Flag of Panama

Above: Flag of Peru

The following year, on 16 May 1954, his SUV crashed into a Peruvian river at Pena de Aguila Andes down a slope.

Bischof was killed.

Above: Pena de Aguila, Peru

In his relatively short life, Werner Bischof was highly productive and dedicated. 

He created a work of 60,000 photographs. 

With his fascinating compositions of light and shadow, Bischof made a name for himself early on as a studio and advertising photographer. 

But when he was able to travel through devastated Europe after the end of the Second World War, his pictures described the suffering and destructiveness of the war with oppressive urgency. 

Above: Two girls inside a church destroyed by the war. Friedrichshafen (Germany). 1945, Werner Bischof photograph

Above: A man looking at the city in ruins. Frankfurt (Germany). 1946 – Werner Bischof photograph

Above: A man walking through the destroyed city searching for food in Freiburg im Breisgau (Germany). 1945 – Werner Bischof photograph

His motto now became:

It is not important to make an art out of photography as in the old sense, but rather the deep social responsibility of the photographer, who does a job with the given elementary photographic means that cannot be done with other means would be able to afford. 

This work must become the unadulterated document of temporal reality.

Above: A view of the Thames River from Westminster Abbey in London. 1950 – Werner Bischof photograph

With this in mind, Bischof created images that show bitter poverty and deep suffering, but are also documents of the inner strength and willpower of the people depicted. 

The superficiality and sensationalism of the editorial business repelled him, but he was mostly sent to crisis areas. 

Despite the external circumstances, the love for people and the love for the cause are always visible in Bischof’s photographs.

Aesthetic feeling, elementary formative power and human commitment combined with him to an inner unity.

One of his most famous pictures shows a boy playing the flute walking along a precipice. 

Bischof took the picture in Peru in 1954. 

The NZZ called the picture “an icon of photojournalism“. 

Werner Bischof was a photographer personality who, after the Second World War, photographed the trouble spots of this world with the eye of a poet and the awareness of a politician.”)

Showing the shadows of poverty and despair, tempered with his desire to travel the world, Bischof conveyed the beauty of nature and humanity.

I felt compelled to venture forth and explore the true face of the world.

Leading a satisfying of plenty has blinded many of us to the immense hardships beyond our borders.

Above: A pleasant sleep – Werner Bischof photograph

(Jakob Tuggener (1904 – 1988) was a Swiss photographer.

Above: Jakob Tuggener?

Tuggener did an apprenticeship as a mechanical draftsman in Zurich. 

In 1930 – 1931 he studied graphics, typography, drawing, window dressing and film at the Reimann School in Berlin (then the largest private arts and crafts school in Germany). 

His work at that time was published in the school magazine Farb und Form (Colour and Form). 

Above: Reimann Art School (1902 – 1940), Berlin, Germany

After his return to Switzerland he worked as an industrial photographer. 

In 1934, Tuggener bought a Leica camera and took his first photographs at the Grand Bal Russe (Russian ball) in Zürich. 

The subject of dance balls would not let him go for two decades. 

The glories of nightlife enchanted him with their alabaster light illuminating a fairy tale of women and flowing silk.

Above: ACS Ball Grand Hotel Dolder, 1948 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

He photographed balls in Zürich’s Grand Hotel Dolder and the Hotel Baur au Lac, St. Moritz’s Palace Hotel, and the Vienna (Wien) Opera Ball. 

Above: Dolder Grand Hotel, Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Hotel Baur au Lac, Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Palace Hotel, St. Moritz, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

Above: Vienna State Opera, Wien (Vienna), Austria

He also devoted himself to topics such as country life and technology.

Above: Untitled, Oeschgen, Canton Aargau, Switzerland, 1942 Jakob Tuggener photograph

Above: Plant entrance, Oerlikon Machine Factory, Canton Zürich, Switzerland, 1934 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

In 1943, Tuggener made his breakthrough into avant-garde Swiss photography with his book Factory: a photographic essay on the relationship between man and machine

Above: Grande Dixence power station, Canton Valais, Switzerland, 1942 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

Above: Barrage de la Grande Dixence, Lac des Dix reservoir, Canton Valais, Switzerland

After the Second World War, his pictures were shown in the New York Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) and published in the magazines Leica-Foto and Du, among others. 

Above: Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York City, New York, USA

In 1949, the new editor of Camera magazine, Walter Laubli (1902 – 1991), published a substantial portfolio of Jakob Tuggener’s pictures made at upper-class entertainments and in factories, a world familiar to him from his early apprenticeship as a technical draftsman in Zürich, as well as a series of stills from his silent films, with an introduction by Hans Kasser (1907 – 1978), himself a photographer and member of the Werkbund.

Alongside Tuggener’s work, Camera presented the 25-year-old Robert Frank, who had just returned to his native Switzerland  after two years abroad, with pages including some of his first pictures from New York.

The magazine promoted the two as representatives of the ‘new photography’ of Switzerland.

Above: Cover of the 1st issue of Camera magazine, July 1922

Tuggener was a role model for Frank, first mentioned to him by his boss and mentor, Zurich commercial photographer Michael Wolgensinger (1913–1990).

Tuggener, as a serious artist who had left the commercial world behind, was the “one Frank really did love, from among all Swiss photographers”. 

Fabrik, as a photo book, was a model for Frank’s Les Américains (1958).

A first major exhibition of Tuggener’s “Ball Nights” pictures took place in Munich in 1969. 

In 1951, Tuggener founded the College of Swiss Photographers with Werner Bischof, Gotthard Schuh and Paul Senn.

Above: Ball Nights photograph, Jakob Tuggener

The “pictorial poet” Tuggener is regarded as a representative of social documentary photography, one of the most important areas of photographic art. 

For Tuggener, people, truth and the concern for social justice were at the centre of his work. 

His work is characterized by the interplay of the artistic media of painting, photography and film with the three main themes of work in the factory, life in the country, and glamorous balls in magnificent hotels. 

He created expressive photography and knew how to assemble radical sections and dynamic perspectives into film-like series of images. 

As with a moving camera, he captured the “pulse of life” and condensed fleeting moments into a poetic overall view.

In 1950, Tuggener wrote: 

The photographer as an expressionist does not exist in the commercial register. 

He is the freest and free. 

Detached from all purpose, he only photographs the pleasure of his experience.

Above: Work in the boiler (1935), Jakob Tuggener photograph

His archive is in the Fotomuseum in Winterthur.)

Above: Fotomuseum, Winterthur, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

(Robert Frank (1924 – 2019) was a Swiss photographer and documentary filmmaker, who became an American bi-national.

Above: Robert Frank

His most notable work, the 1958 book titled The Americans, earned Frank comparisons to a modern-day Alexis de Tocqueville (1805 – 1889) for his fresh and nuanced outsider’s view of American society.

Above: French political philosopher Alexis de Tocqueville

Critic Sean O’Hagan, writing in The Guardian in 2014, said The Americans

“‘The Americanschanged the nature of photography, what it could say and how it could say it.

It remains perhaps the most influential photography book of the 20th century.

Above: Sean O’Hagan

Frank later expanded into film and video and experimented with manipulating photographs and photomontage.

Above: Robert Frank, “Couple/Paris” 1952

Frank was born in Zürich, Switzerland, the son of Rosa (Zucker) and Hermann Frank.

His family was Jewish.

Robert states in Gerald Fox’s 2004 documentary Leaving Home, Coming Home that his mother, Rosa (other sources state her name as Regina), had a Swiss passport, while his father, Hermann originating from Frankfurt, Germany had become stateless after losing his German citizenship as a Jew.

They had to apply for the Swiss citizenship of Robert and his older brother, Manfred.

Though Frank and his family remained safe in Switzerland during World War II, the threat of Nazism nonetheless affected his understanding of oppression.

Above: Flag of the National Socialist Party (1920 – 1945)

He turned to photography, in part as a means to escape the confines of his business-oriented family and home, and trained under a few photographers and graphic designers before he created his first hand-made book of photographs, 40 Fotos, in 1946. 

Frank emigrated to the US in 1947.

He secured a job in New York City as a fashion photographer for Harper’s Bazaar.

In 1949, the new editor of Camera magazine, Walter Laubli, published a substantial portfolio of Jakob Tuggener  pictures made at upper-class entertainments and in factories, alongside the work of the 25 year-old Frank who had just returned to his native Switzerland after two years abroad, with pages including some of his first pictures from New York.

The magazine promoted the two as representatives of the ‘new photography‘ of Switzerland.

Tuggener was a role model for the younger artist, first mentioned to him by Frank’s boss and mentor, Zürich commercial photographer Michael Wolgensinger (1913 – 1990) who understood that Frank was unsuited to the more mercenary application of the medium.

Tuggener, as a serious artist, had left the commercial world behind.

Above: Michael Wolgensinger

Frank soon left to travel in South America and Europe.

He created another handmade book of photographs that he shot in Peru, and returned to the US in 1950.

That year was momentous for Frank:

He participated in the group show 51 American Photographers at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA).

He married fellow artist Mary Lockspeiser, with whom he had two children, Andrea and Pablo.

Though he was initially optimistic about US society and culture, Frank’s perspective quickly changed as he confronted the fast pace of American life and what he saw as an overemphasis on money.

He now saw America as an often bleak and lonely place, a perspective that became evident in his later photography.

Frank’s own dissatisfaction with the control that editors exercised over his work also undoubtedly colored his experience.

Above: Robert Frank, “Trolley —New Orleans”, 1955

He continued to travel, moving his family briefly to Paris. 

Above: Robert Frank, “Tulip/Paris” 1950

In 1953, he returned to New York and continued to work as a freelance photojournalist for magazines, including McCall’s, Vogue and Fortune.

Associating with other contemporary photographers, he helped form the New York School of Photographers during the 1940s and 1950s.

In 1955, Frank achieved further recognition with the inclusion of seven of his photographs (many more than most other contributors) in the world-touring MoMA exhibition The Family of Man that was to be seen by 9 million visitors and with a popular catalogue that is still in print.

Frank’s contributions had been:

  • in Spain of a woman kissing her swaddled babe-in-arms
  • of a bowed old woman in Peru
  • a rheumy-eyed miner in Wales
  • others in England and the US, including two (one atypically soft-focus) of his wife in pregnancy; and one (later to be included in The Americans) of six laughing women in the window of the White Tower Hamburger Stand on Fourteenth Street, New York City.

Inspired by fellow Swiss Jakob Tuggener’s 1943 filmic book Fabrik, Bill Brandt’s The English at Home (1936) and Walker Evans’ American Photographs (1938), Frank secured a Guggenheim Fellowship in 1955 to travel across the United States and photograph all strata of its society.

Cities he visited included: 

  • Detroit, Michigan
  • Dearborn, Michigan  
  • Savannah, Georgia
  • Miami Beach, Florida
  • St. Petersburg, Florida  
  • New Orleans, Louisiana 
  • Houston, Texas 
  • Los Angeles, California 
  • Reno, Nevada
  • Salt Lake City, Utah
  • Butte, Montana
  • Chicago, Illinois.

Above: Detroit, Michigan, USA

Above: Dearborn, Michigan, USA

Above: Savannah, Georgia, USA

Above: Miami Beach, Florida, USA

Above: St. Petersburg, Florida, USA

Above: New Orleans, Louisiana, USA

Above: Houston, Texas, USA

Above: Los Angeles, California, USA

Above: Reno, Nevada, USA

Above: Images of Salt Lake City, Utah, USA

Above: Images of Butte, Montana, USA

Above: Chicago, Illinois, USA

He took his family along with him for part of his series of road trips over the next two years, during which time he took 28,000 shots.

83 of these were selected by him for publication in The Americans.

Frank’s journey was not without incident.

He later recalled the anti-Semitism to which he was subject in a small Arkansas town.

I remember the policeman took me into the police station.

He sat there and put his feet on the table.

It came out that I was Jewish because I had a letter from the Guggenheim Foundation.

They really were primitive.

He was told by the sheriff:

Well, we have to get somebody who speaks Yiddish.”

They wanted to make a thing out of it.

It was the only time it happened on the trip.

They put me in jail.

It was scary.

Nobody knew where I was.

Above: State flag of Arkansas

Elsewhere in the South, he was told by a sheriff that he had “an hour to leave town“.

Those incidents may have contributed to the dark view of America found in the work.

Above: The states in dark red compose the Deep South today.

Adjoining areas of Texas and North Florida are also considered part of this subregion.

Shortly after returning to New York in 1957, Frank met Beat writer Jack Kerouac “at a New York party where poets and Beatniks were,” and showed him the photographs from his travels.

However, according to Joyce Johnson, Kerouac’s lover at the time, she met Frank while waiting for Kerouac to emerge from a conference with his editors, at Viking Press, looked at Frank’s portfolio, and introduced them to each other. 

Kerouac immediately told Frank:

Sure I can write something about these pictures.

He eventually contributed the introduction to the US edition of The Americans.

Above: Jack Kerouac (1922 – 1969)

Frank also became lifelong friends with Beat poet Allen Ginsberg.

Above: Allen Ginsberg (1926 – 1997)

Frank was one of the main visual artists to document the Beat subculture, who felt an affinity with Frank’s interest in documenting the tensions between the optimism of the 1950s and the realities of class and racial differences.

The irony that Frank found in the gloss of American culture and wealth over this tension gave his photographs a clear contrast to those of most contemporary American photojournalists, as did his use of unusual focus, low lighting and cropping that deviated from accepted photographic techniques.

This divergence from contemporary photographic standards gave Frank difficulty at first in securing an American publisher. 

Les Américains was first published in 1958 by Robert Delpire in Paris, as part of its Encyclopédie Essentielle series, with texts by Simone de Beauvoir, Erskine Caldwell, William Faulkner, Henry Miller and John Steinbeck that Delpire positioned opposite Frank’s photographs. 

Above: French writer Simone de Beauvoir (1908 – 1986)

Above: American writer Erskine Caldwell (1903 – 1987)

Above: American writer William Faulkner (1897 – 1962)

Above: American writer Henry Miller (1891 – 1980)

Above: American writer John Steinbeck (1902 – 1968)

It was finally published in 1959 in the US, without the texts, by Grove Press, where it initially received substantial criticism. 

Above: Logo of Grove Press

Popular Photography derided his images as “meaningless blur, grain, muddy exposures, drunken horizons and general sloppiness“.

Though sales were also poor at first, the fact that the introduction was by the popular Kerouac helped it reach a larger audience.

Over time and through its inspiration of later artists, The Americans became a seminal work in American photography and art history.

It is the work with which Frank is most clearly identified.

Critic Sean O’Hagan, writing in The Guardian in 2014, said:

It is impossible to imagine photography’s recent past and overwhelmingly confusing present without his lingeringly pervasive presence.

Above: “Mr. and Mrs. Feiertag/Late afternoon“, Robert Frank, from the photo essay “People You Don’t See (series),” 1951

In 1961, Frank received his first individual show, entitled Robert Frank: Photographer, at the Art Institute of Chicago.

He also showed at MoMA in New York in 1962.

Above: Art Institute of Chicago, Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois, USA

The French journal Les cahiers de la photographie devoted special issues 11 and 12 in 1983 to discussion of Robert Frank as a gesture of admiration for, and complicity with, his work, also to set forth his critical capacity as an artist.

To mark the 50th anniversary of the first publication of The Americans, a new edition was released worldwide on May 30, 2008.

For this new edition, most photographs are uncropped (in contrast to the cropped versions in previous editions).

Two photographs are replaced with those of the same subject but from an alternate perspective.

Above: Robert Frank, “Covered car — Long Beach, California”, 1956

A celebratory exhibit of The Americans, titled Looking In: Robert Frank’s The Americans, was displayed in 2009 at the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA), and at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Above: National Gallery of Art, Washington DC, USA

Above: Museum of Modern Art, San Francisco, California, USA

Above: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City, New York, USA

An accompanying book, also titled Looking In: Robert Frank’s The Americans, was published, the most in-depth examination of any photography book ever, at 528 pages.

While working as a guard at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Jason Eskenazi asked other noted photographers visiting the Looking In exhibition to choose their favorite image from The Americans and explain their choice, resulting in the book, By the Glow of the Jukebox: The Americans List.

Though Frank continued to be interested in film and video, he returned to still images in the 1970s, publishing his second photographic book, The Lines of My Hand, in 1972.

This work has been described as a “visual autobiography“, and consists largely of personal photographs.

However, he largely gave up “straight” photography to instead create narratives out of constructed images and collages, incorporating words and multiple frames of images that were directly scratched and distorted on the negatives.

None of this later work has achieved an impact comparable to that of The Americans. 

In contrast to The Americans, Frank’s later images simply were not beyond the pale of accepted technique and practice by that time.

By the time The Americans was published in the US in 1959, Frank had moved away from photography to concentrate on filmmaking.

Among his films was the 1959 Pull My Daisy, which was written and narrated by Kerouac and starred Ginsberg and others from the Beat circle.

The Beats emphasized spontaneity.

The film conveyed the quality of having been thrown together or even improvised.

Pull My Daisy was accordingly praised for years as an improvisational masterpiece, until Frank’s co-director, Alfred Leslie, revealed in a 28 November 1968 article in the Village Voice that the film was actually carefully planned, rehearsed, and directed by him and Frank, who shot the film with professional lighting.

In 1960, Frank stayed in Pop artist George Segal’s basement while filming The Sin of Jesus.

Above: American artist George Segal (1924 – 2000)

Isaac Babel’s story was transformed to center on a woman working on a chicken farm in New Jersey.

Above: Russian writer Isaac Babel (1894 – 1940)

It was originally supposed to be filmed in six weeks in and around New Brunswick, Canada, but Frank ended up shooting for six months.

Above: Flag of the Canadian province of New Brunswick

Frank’s 1972 documentary of the Rolling Stones is arguably his best known film.

The film shows the Stones on tour, engaging in heavy drug use and group sex.

Frank said of the Stones:

It was great to watch them — the excitement.

But my job was after the show.

What I was photographing was a kind of boredom.

It’s so difficult being famous.

It’s a horrendous life.

Everyone wants to get something from you.” 

Mick Jagger reportedly told Frank:

It’s a good film, Robert, but if it shows in America we’ll never be allowed in the country again.

The Stones sued to prevent the film’s release.

It was disputed whether Frank as the artist or the Stones as those who hired the artist owned the copyright.

A court order restricted the film to being shown no more than five times per year, and only in the presence of Frank.

Frank’s photography also appeared on the cover of the Rolling Stones’ album Exile on Main Street.

Above: Album cover, The Rolling Stones, Exile on Main Street

Other films by Frank include: 

  • Me and My Brother
  • Keep Busy
  • Candy Mountain

Frank and Mary separated in 1969.

He remarried, to sculptor June Leaf.

Above: American artist June Leaf

In 1971, they moved to the community of Mabou, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada. 

Above: Mabou, Nova Scotia, Canada

In 1974, his daughter, Andrea, was killed in a plane crash in Tikal, Guatemala.

In 1995, in memory of his daughter he founded the Andrea Frank Foundation, which provides grants to artists.

Above: Mayan Temple 1, Tikal, Guatemala

Also around this time, his son, Pablo, was first hospitalized and diagnosed with schizophrenia.

Much of Frank’s subsequent work dealt with the impact of the loss of both his daughter and subsequently his son, who died in an Allentown, Pennsylvania hospital in 1994.

Above: Images of Allentown, Pennsylvania, USA

Well, we’re living here in Allentown
And they’re closing all the factories down
Out in Bethlehem they’re killing time
Filling out forms
Standing in line
Well, our fathers fought the Second World War
Spent their weekends on the Jersey Shore
Met our mothers in the USO
Asked them to dance
Danced with them slow
And we’re living here in Allentown

But the restlessness was handed down
And it’s getting very hard to stay

Well, we’re waiting here in Allentown
For the Pennsylvania we never found
For the promises our teachers gave
If we worked hard
If we behaved
So the graduations hang on the wall
But they never really helped us at all
No, they never taught us what was real
Iron and coke
And chromium steel
And we’re waiting here in Allentown

But they’ve taken all the coal from the ground
And the union people crawled away

Every child had a pretty good shot
To get at least as far as their old man got
But something happened on the way to that place
They threw an American flag in our face

Well, I’m living here in Allentown
And it’s hard to keep a good man down
But I won’t be getting up today

And it’s getting very hard to stay
And we’re living here in Allentown

After his move to Nova Scotia, Canada, Frank divided his time between his home there, in a former fisherman’s shack on the coast, and his Bleeker Street loft in New York.

He acquired a reputation for being a recluse (particularly since the death of Andrea), declining most interviews and public appearances.

Above: Robert Frank address, 7 Bleecker Street, Manhattan, New York City, New York, USA

He continued to accept eclectic assignments, however, such as photographing the 1984 Democratic National Convention, and directing music videos for artists such as New Order (“Run“) and Patti Smith (“Summer Cannibals“).

Above: Logo of the US Democratic Party

Above: Front cover for the single Summer Cannibals by Patti Smith

Frank produced both films and still images, and helped organize several retrospectives of his art.

His work has been represented by Pace/MacGill Gallery in New York since 1984.

In 1994, the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC presented the most comprehensive retrospective of Frank’s work to date, entitled Moving Out.

Anthony works in the grocery store
Savin’ his pennies for someday
Mama Leone left a note on the door
She said, “Sonny, move out to the country”
Workin’ too hard can give you
A heart attack (ack, ack, ack, ack, ack)
You oughta know by now (oughta know)
Who needs a house out in Hackensack
Is that what you get for your money?

It seems such a waste of time
If that’s what it’s all about
Mama, if that’s movin’ up
Then I’m movin’ out
I’m movin’ out

Sergeant O’Leary is walkin’ the beat
At night he becomes a bartender
He works at Mister Cacciatore’s down
On Sullivan Street
Across from the medical center
He’s tradin’ in his Chevy for a Cadillac (ack, ack, ack, ack, ack)
You oughta know by now
And if he can’t drive
With a broken back
At least he can polish the fenders

It seems such a waste of time
If that’s what it’s all about
Mama, if that’s movin’ up
Then I’m movin’ out
I’m movin’ out

You should never argue with a crazy mind (mi-, mi-, mi-, mi-, mi-)
You oughta know by now
You can pay Uncle Sam with the overtime
Is that all you get for your money
If that’s what you have in mind
If that’s what you’re all about
Good luck movin’ up
‘Cause I’m moving out
I’m moving out (mmm)
Ou, ou, uh huh (mmm)

I’m moving out

Frank died on 9 September 2019, at his home in Nova Scotia.

Above: Robert Frank home, Mabou, Nova Scotia

Let us return back to Switzerland and Arnold Kübler…..

Above: Arnold Kübler, editor of the Zürcher Illustrierte

(Under Kübler, in the literary section, works by Hermann Hesse and Max Frisch were included.

Above: German writer Hermann Hesse (1877 – 1962)

Above: Swiss writer Max Frisch (1911 – 1991)

In 1941, Conzett & Huber decided to sell the Zürcher Illustrierte and publish a new magazine with which they planned to promote the multi-color print they have developed.

Arnold Kübler became the editor-in-chief of the newly founded cultural magazine Du, which he ran for 16 years.

Under Kübler’s leadership, Du became a well respected cultural magazine, employing prominent photographers and focused on painters like Pablo Picasso, Joan Miro and Paul Klee.

Above: Spanish artist Joan Miro (1893 – 1983)

Above: Swiss artist Paul Klee (1879 – 1940)

Kübler was active in his positions as a cultural mediator and source of inspiration, but did not neglect his own artistic forms of expression:

In the 1960s he returned to the theatre stage with great success as a one-man cabaret.

In addition, Kübler was active in drawing and writing, which he was able to combine in several of his books, for example, in the travelogue Paris – Bâle à pied (Paris to Basel on foot) – Report and drawings of a 500 km journey on foot in 28 days (1967). 

In his Öppi novels, Kübler described autobiographical events on more than 2,000 pages.

Kübler’s works:

  • The Failed Actor (1934)
  • The Heart, the Corner, the Donkey, and Other Stories (1939)
  • Öppi from Wasenwachs: The boy without a mother (1943)
  • Öppi the student (1947)
  • Öppi and Eve (1951)
  • Velodyssey: A sporting epic (1955)
  • In Alfred Hüggenberger’s country: A winter journey with drawings (1958)
  • Mitenand, gägenenand, durenand: A picture book of how to treat your neighbor in Switzerland (1959)
  • Zurich experienced, drawn, explained (1960)
  • 48 cheerful stories (1961)
  • The dare: A Zürich booklet about Basel (1961)
  • Sites and cities: Experienced, drawn, explained (1963)
  • Öppi the fool (1964)
  • Draw, Antonio! (1966)
  • Babette, best regards: Predominantly true accounts and drawings (1967)
  • Paris – Bâle à pied: Report and drawings of a 500 km journey on foot in 28 days (1967)
  • Say & write! – A humorous cabaret autobiographical contribution to the cultural history of the city of Zürich (1969)
  • Israel: a look – Report with drawings (1970)
  • Stay: Mostly cheerful reports with drawings (1974) )

Above: Original German language version of Arnold Kübler’s The Failed Actor

(Alfred Huggenberger (1867 – 1960) (aka Dr. Hans Meyerlein) was a Swiss writer. 

Above: Alfred Huggenberger

With his numerous farces, stories and poems, both in standard German and in his Eastern Swiss dialect, he became known beyond Switzerland.

Alfred Huggenberger was born the son of a farmer in Bewangen (Canton Zürich) near the border of Canton Thurgau. 

Above: Village school with clock tower, Bertschikon bei Attikon, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

At the age of 29, he took over his parents’ farm, which burned down, due to arson, in 1904. 

Together with his wife Bertha and their daughter, Huggenberger moved to neighboring Gerlikon (Canton Thurgau) in 1908, where he took over a smaller farm that gave him more time for his literary work.

Above: St. George Chapel, Gerlikon, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Alfred Huggenberger began writing early on. 

He made his literary breakthrough beyond the Swiss border in 1907 with the book Hinterm Pflug (Behind the Plough) supported by well-known authors, such as Hermann Hesse. 

During the National Socialist era, he was used by the Nazis to propagate blood and soil literature.

(Blood and soil literature is the contrast between town and country, with the city embodying the concepts of democracy, liberalism, modernism and individualism as negative values, and the rural countryside, with its naturalness.

A sense of community and an anti-progress ideal represented the supposedly positive pole. 

Blood and soil literature differs from other streams of Nazi fiction in its glorification of country life, nature and the return to nature.)

Above: Coat of arms of the German Reich (1935 – 1945)

(I never cease to be amazed by how the Nazis could take something wonderful and convert it into something terrible.

For example, the swastika is a millennia-old sacred symbol in Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism that represents peace and good fortune, but in the West, it remains equated to Adolf Hitler’s hooked cross (Hakenkreuz).

Happily, calls to reclaim the swastika as a sacred symbol become louder.

Above: Hindu Swastika

Another example is Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche (1844 – 1900), a German philosopher, prose poet, cultural critic and philologist, whose work has exerted a profound influence on contemporary philosophy.

Nietzsche’s writing spans philosophical polemics, poetry, cultural criticism and fiction while displaying a fondness for aphorism and irony.

Prominent elements of his philosophy include:

  • his radical critique of truth in favor of perspectivism
  • a genealogical critique of religion and Christian morality and a related theory of master – slave morality
  • the aesthetic affirmation of life in response to both the “death of God” and the profound crisis of nihilism
  • the notion of Apollonian and Dionysian forces
  • a characterization of the human subject as the expression of competing wills, collectively understood as the will to power

He also developed influential concepts such as the Übermensch (Superman) and his doctrine of eternal return.

In his later work, he became increasingly preoccupied with the creative powers of the individual to overcome cultural and moral mores in pursuit of new values and aesthetic health.

His body of work touched a wide range of topics, including:

  • art
  • philology
  • history
  • music
  • religion
  • tragedy
  • culture
  • science 

After his death, Nietzsche’s sister Elisabeth became the curator and editor of his manuscripts.

She edited his unpublished writings to fit her German ultranationalist ideology, often contradicting or obfuscating Nietzsche’s stated opinions, which were explicitly opposed to antisemitism.

Through her, Nietzsche’s work became associated with fascism and Nazism.

20th-century scholars defended Nietzsche against this interpretation.

Corrected editions of his writings were soon made available.

Nietzsche’s thought enjoyed renewed popularity in the 1960s.

His ideas have since had a profound impact on 20th- and early 21st-century thinkers across philosophy — especially in schools of Continental philosophy (such as existentialism, postmodernism and post-structuralism — as well as art, literature, poetry, politics, and popular culture.

Above: Friedrich Nietzsche (1844 – 1900)

I have visited the Nietzsche Museum in Sils Maria, where the philosopher spent his final years.

I highly recommend a visit.)

Above: Nietzsche Haus Museum, Sils Maria, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland, where the German philosopher lived during the summers of 1881 and from 1883 to 1888.

(In addition to absorbing Germanic pagan myths, blood-and-soil literature played an important role in the creation of the Nazi worldview.

Nature and natural life are made the subject of a political myth by the writers of the blood-and-soil style. 

The focus is on the farmer and the farmer’s wife as symbols of the “pure” German par excellence. 

Village society appears as a Nazi microcosm. 

Nazi racism is propagated through blood and soil literature.

One of the basic tenets of the genre is the idea that “nobility” is nothing other than the peasant clan who must hold on to their indivisible, unsaleable hereditary farm for the purpose of breeding, to keep their blood pure.)

Above: German People, German Work, Kaiserdamm, Berlin, Germany (1934)

Huggenberger’s entire oeuvre comprises over 100 volumes of prose and poetry – some in Standard German, some in Swiss German – as well as numerous plays. 

Huggenberger worked in agriculture until old age. 

He died at the age of 92 in the former monastery of St. Katharinental and is buried in the cemetery in Gachnang.)

Above: Monastery of St. Katharinenthal, Diesenhofen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Now let us go back to Altnau and Hans Baumgartner…..

Above: Swiss teacher/photographer Hans Baumgartner

Baumgartner’s first photo report appeared in 1935.

Baumgartner then published in magazines, such as Camera, Du, Der Schweizer Spiegel (the Swiss Mirror), Die Schweiz (Switzerland) and Föhn (a type of dry, relatively warm, downslope wind that occurs in the lee (downwind side) of a mountain range – what Canadians call a chinook). 

The Neue Zürcher Zeitung (New Zurich newspaper) and the Thurgauer Zeitung also published his pictures. 

His photo books (from 1941) deal primarily with themes from his home canton of Thurgau. 

Above: Exercise in the snow, Hans Baumgartner photograph

In 1937, he made the acquaintance of the painter Adolf Dietrich, whom he subsequently portrayed several times.

Above: Swiss artist Adolf Dietrich

(Adolf Dietrich (1877 – 1957) was a Swiss painter.

Dietrich was born in a small, modest house in Berlingen, in Canton Thurgau, the 7th child of Heinrich Dietrich and Dorothea (née Kern). 

Above: Adolf Dietrich Haus, Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Even as a small boy he collected a lot and tried to imitate and draw everything. 

From 1885 to 1893 he attended primary school. 

He was a good and diligent student. 

His teacher recognized his talent for drawing and encouraged it. 

He recommended to his parents that their son should do an apprenticeship as a lithographer. 

But the family was poor and Adolf had to learn a trade that would earn him more. 

So he started to work in a jersey factory in Berlingen. 

On Sundays he painted and drew passionately. 

From 1896 to 1910 he worked at home as a machine knitter.

 Above: Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Nature with its mysteries and wonders fascinated him more and more. 

He began a first sketchbook and a dozen animal watercolours followed

In 1902, Dietrich became friends with Friedrich Neeser, a baker’s apprentice who also painted. 

They spent Sundays together in nature. 

Neeser encouraged the serious and somewhat anxious Adolf not to give up painting.

Above: Waldrand, Adolf Dietrich (1918)

In 1903, Dietrich drew his first self-portrait in charcoal. 

Above: Adolf Dietrich

His brother, who lived in Ludwigshafen am Rhein, commissioned him to paint a portrait of his parents. 

Above: Ludwigshafen am Rhein, Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany

That same year his mother died. 

From then on, Dietrich lived alone with his father in a small house in Berlingen. 

Above: Dorothea and Heinrich Dietrich

Working from home on the knitting machine helped to cope with the daily worries of existence. 

For technical reasons, however, he soon gave up working from home and earned his living as a forest worker. 

In 1913, he exhibited his paintings for the first time in Konstanz in the Wessenberghaus Museum. 

Above: Wessenberg Haus, Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

This was followed by further exhibitions in various galleries in Germany.

In 1918 his father died. 

This loss was difficult for him. 

Above: Moonlight on the Bodensee, Adolf Dietrich

Dietrich was discovered by the art dealer Herbert Tannenbaum, which enabled Dietrich to exhibit at various locations in Germany. 

Tannenbaum endeavored to make Dietrich known in Switzerland and soon obtained permission for exhibitions in Zürich and Schaffhausen. 

From 1924, Dietrich was able to make a living from his painting.

In 1937, Adolf Dietrich met Hans Baumgartner, who portrayed him several times for the magazine Du, thus helped him to achieve his international breakthrough.  

As a result, Dietrich was able to take part in exhibitions in Paris, London and New York.

It was not until 1941 that his home canton of Thurgau acquired a picture of his. 

From 1942, the demand for his pictures became so great that he copied his own pictures and promised the same picture to several people at the same time. 

He painted until his death. 

He died in his house in Berlingen. 

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

The lawyer Hans Buck, the author of Adolf Dietrich as a draftsman, made sure that Dietrich wrote a will and in it foresightedly thought of a future Thurgau art museum.

Adolf Dietrich had been fascinated by nature and animals since his childhood. 

He owned many stuffed animals that he drew. 

He often drew his garden or the Bodensee.

He painted portraits and various still life works.

Adolf Dietrich had no academic training as a painter. 

He always drew very precisely, so his pictures are very realistic. 

Above: Balbo lying on the meadow, Adolf Dietrich, 1955

Above: Fox in the forest, Adolf Dietrich

At the beginning Adolf Dietrich made pencil drawings in his sketchbooks on his hikes, 18 are still preserved today. 

Around 1929 he began taking black-and-white photographs, leaving behind several thousand.

He never painted in nature, but only ever made a sketch, which he then painted in color at home from memory. 

He never used an easel and always painted his pictures on the table in his living room, often in poor light. 

His techniques were gouache and watercolour painting, charcoal drawing, oil painting and pencil sketches.

In the beginning he painted on cardboard, later on wood, but only rarely on canvas. 

For this reason quite a lot of his pictures are in a sensitive condition.

The Museum is in his former home in Berlingen and is worth a visit.)

Above: Inside Adolf Dietrich Haus Museum, Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

(The Nazis completed destroyed the worthiness of the given name Adolf, which originally meant “noble wolf“.

Above: Seal of King Adolf of Nassau (1255 – 1298)

In both Protestant Germany (because of Swedish King Gustav Adolf and German writer Adolph von Knigge) and Catholic Germany (because of German priest/philosopher Adolph Kolping), Adolf enjoyed some popularity. 

Above: Swedish King Gustav Adolf (1594 – 1632)

Above: German writer Adolphe von Knigge (1752 – 1796)

Above: Adolph Kolping (1813 – 1865)

In 1890, the name was in 13th place on the popularity scale of all male first names in Germany.  

But since the beginning of the 20th century, its frequency as a first name has been decreasing. 

After an upswing from 1933, which lasted until 1942, the use of the name collapsed – in correlation with Adolf Hitler’s popularity.

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

 

Since the early 1950s, the first name Adolf has rarely been given to newborns in German-speaking countries.

The name is heavily burdened by the dictator Adolf Hitler and other Nazis, such as Adolf Eichmann (who orchestrated the Holocaust).

Above: Adolf Eichmann (1906 – 1962)

The first name is given about 15 times a year in Germany. 

The competent registry office decides on the admissibility in individual cases, in particular on the basis of the best interests of the child. 

In cases of doubt, they can consult the Onomastics Center at the University of Leipzig.

Above: Logo of the University of Leipzig, Saxony, Germany

The name was also popular in Sweden, where several kings bore the name. 

However, it has not been in the top ten most popular first names in any decade since the 1920s. 

In 2015, there were only around 2,600 bearers of this name in Sweden. 

Since at least 1998, fewer than ten newborn boys have been given this name each year. 

Above: Flag of Sweden

In the 2018 film Der Vorname (just like in the original 2012 French film Le Prénom), the name is the catalyst for a consequential dispute among the antagonists.

In it, an expectant father says with deadly seriousness that he will name his son Adolf

But he only wants to provoke his brother-in-law in order to give him a tit-for-tat for his constant mockery.)

Baumgartner also photographed his trips to Paris and Italy, the Balkans, southern France, North Africa and the Sahara, Croatia and the Dalmatian Coast, Burgundy, Spain and Portugal, Sweden and Finland, the US, Hungary, Belgium and Germany. 

Above: Sand dunes, Sahara Desert, Algeria

Above: Flag of Croatia

Above: Flag of Portugal

Above: Flag of Hungary

On his world trip by ship in 1963, he reached Asia (Bombay/Mumbai, Colombo, Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City, Hong Kong, Yokohama) and the American continent (Mexico and the US). 

Above: Mumbai, India

Above: Parliament Buildings, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Above: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Above: Hong Kong, China

Above: Yokohama, Japan

Stays at spas took him to Davos.

Above: Images of Davos, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

Hans Baumgartner died in Frauenfeld in 1996. 

Above: Frauenfeld, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The Swiss Foundation for Photography manages his estate of around 120,000 photographs.

It cannot be denied that Switzerland, despite its diminutive size (as compared to Canada or Turkey), is replete with talented artists.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Above: Flag of Canada

Above: Flag of Turkey

All of the above-mentioned Swiss artists, save Dietrich, travelled the world.

Dietrich’s world surrounded him.

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

I mention Baumgartner, because I think his photography abandoned the sphere of technical experimentation, the abstract and the avant-garde.

Photography became more wholesome, concentrating on the poetry of real things, the universal language of life.

Baumgartner was a teacher but by following his passions he succeeded in creating photos that tell a narrative, such as in Italy, a stolen image of lovers resting beside their discarded bicycles amongst long summer grass in an olive grove, or in Java, a boy stretches balletically across the pavement as he plays marbles.

Above: Hans Baumgartner

Kübler tried to be a geologist, then a sculptor, found success as an actor, was disfigured and still managed to achieve success as an artist in the field of literature.

Kübler believed in the role that photography can play upon the people who view it.

Above: Arnold Kübler

Senn showed that photography can be of a humanist nature.

Above: Paul Senn

Bischof sought to capture the true face of the world, the essence of real life.

Above: Werner Bischof

Tuggener showed that there was poetry in photography.

Above: Jakob Tuggener

Dieter’s guide to creation was Creation itself.

Above: Flowers by the Window with Butterflies, Adolf Dietrich

I believe that once Frank and Huggenberger moved on from their beloved Switzerland they gained their reputations, but lost themselves and the beautiful spirit that is Switzerland that had nurtured them.

Above: Swiss International Air Lines logo

I have only mentioned a few famous Swiss photographers but there are many more worthy of mention, such as:

Fred Boissonnas (1858 – 1946) was a Swiss photographer from Geneva.

Above: Fred Boissonnas

His work is considered crucial for the development of photography in Greece, and its use in favourably publicising the country’s expansionist ambitions, during the early 20th century.

Boissonnas constitutes a central figure in the transition from 19th century approaches to a more contemporary photography of antiquities.

Between 1903 and 1933 Boissonnas made several trips to Greece where he systematically documented Greece in landscape photographs, taken in all corners of the country, reflect its continuity from ancient times to the present day.

On one Greek expedition with compatriot art historian Daniel Baud-Bovy (1870 – 1958), Boissonnas made the first recorded modern-era ascent of Mount Olympus on 2 August 1913, aided by a hunter of wild goats.

Above: Mount Olympus, Greece

In total, Boissonnas published 14 photo albums dedicated to Greece, many of which belong to the thematic series entitled L’image de la Grece (The Image of Greece), his imagery contributing decisively to the identity of Greece in Europe, its promotion as a tourist destination but also its political situation.

His photographs of archaeological sites form 20% of his total Greek series.

He visited the Acropolis, Delphi, Olympia, Dodoni, Knossos, Delos, and many other sites, providing an extensive iconographic panorama of classical Greek antiquities.

Above: The Acropolis, Athens, Greece

Above: Delphi, Greece

Above: Olympia, Greece

Above: Dodoni, Greece

Above: Knossos, Crete

Above: Delos, Greece

Interested not only in documenting a site, Boissonnas also aimed to interpret the Greek landscape in combining classical antiquity with the provincial Greek folklore through associations of natural and cultural elements carefully composed and in the best ambient light.

His last photo album about Greece Following the ship of Ulysses (1933) sought to reconstruct the epic and, in a symbolic way, the dissemination of Greek culture throughout Europe. 

The photographs were accompanied by excerpts from Homer’s Odyssey.

  • Fred Mayer – One of Switzerland’s most influential photographers, Mayer travelled to Indonesia, where he shot a documentation about the former President Sukarno.

Above: Ilse and Fred Mayer

Above: Sukarno ( Koesno Sosrodihardjo)(1901 – 1970)(Indonesian President: 1945 – 1967)

His other works include pictures of King Hussein of Jordan and portfolios from all around the world, from the Vatican to Bali.

Above: Hussein bin Talal (1935 – 1999) (King of Jordan: 1952 – 1999)

Above: Flag of Vatican City

Above: Flag of Bali, Indonesia

He further published books about various countries, the Russian orthodox church, Chakkar Polo, Japanese theatre and the Chinese Opera.

Above: Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, Moscow, Russia

Above: Noh theatre, Japan

Above: Chinese National Opera House, Beijing, China

In 2011, Mayer published Homage to Hermann Hesse and his Siddhartha, based on the novel Siddhartha by the German author Hermann Hesse.

  • René Groebli – His first small folio Magie der Schiene (Rail magic) comprising 16 photographs (with front and back cover) was also shot in 1949 and self-published later the same year.

Above: René Groebli

It captures the ‘magic’ of steam train travel during the late 1940s.

Photographed in and around Paris, as well as locations in Switzerland, the often motion-blurred and grainy images convey the energy of steam.

The small book, Das Auge der Liebe (The Eye of Love), though respected for its design and photography, caused some controversy, but also brought Groebli attention.

The term “love” in the title being considered by students to be too sentimental given the obvious sexual connotations.

Where the photographer’s intention was for a romantic effect, the editor admitted that the narrative was sexualized.

In the leading periodical Neue Zürcher Zeitung, editor Edwin Arnet objected to the emphasis on nudity. 

Groebli sequenced his photographs to tell the story of a woman meeting a man in a cheap hotel.

The last photograph shows the woman’s hand with a wedding ring on her ring finger holding an almost finished post-coitus cigarette.

In the perception of audiences of the era, the implication was that the woman had to be either an ‘easy woman’, a prostitute, or an unfaithful wife.

However the US Camera Annual review of the work in 1955 pronounced it “a tender photo essay on a photographer’s love for a woman”.

  • René Robert (1936 – 2022) – In the mid-1960s, he moved to Paris, where he met a Swedish dancer who introduced him to the flamenco.

Above: René Robert

In 1967, he became one of the great portrait photographers.

He photographed personalities such as Spanish virtuoso flamenco guitarist Paco de Lucia (1947 – 2014), Spanish flamenco dancers Israel Galván and Rocio Molina Cruz in black-and-white.

Above: Paco de Lucia

Above: Israel Galván

Above: Rocio Molina Cruz

On the evening of 19 January 2022, Robert was walking through the Place de la République in Paris when he suddenly had a heart attack and collapsed on the sidewalk on rue de Turbigo.

Despite Robert lying motionless and on the pavement for nine hours, no one stopped to assist him or called for help, until eventually a homeless person called the emergency services.

Robert died of hypothermia on 20 January 2022, at the age of 85.

His death was subsequently the subject of media debate around public indifference to street people.

Above: Monument to the Glory of France, Place de la Republique, Paris, France

  • Ella Maillart (1903 – 1997) – From the 1930s onwards, she spent years exploring Muslim republics of the USSR, as well as other parts of Asia, and published a rich series of books which, just as her photographs, are today considered valuable historical testimonies.

Above: Ella Maillart (1903 – 1997)

Her early books were written in French, but later she began to write in English. 

Turkestan Solo describes a journey in 1932 in Soviet Turkestan.

Above: (in green) Former location of Soviet Central Asia / Russian Turkestan

Photos from this journey are now displayed in the Ella Maillart Wing of the Karakol Historical Museum, Kyrgyzstan.

Above: Flag of Kyrgyzstan

In 1934, the French daily Le Petit Parisien (1876 – 1944) sent her to Manchuria to report on the situation under the Japanese occupation.

Above: Map of Manchuria – From left to right: Outer Manchuria / Inner Manchuria / Northern Manchuria

Above: Images of the Second Sino-Japanese War / War of Chinese Resistance (1937 – 1945)

It was there that she met Peter Fleming (1907 – 1971), a well-known writer and correspondent of The Times, with whom she would team up to cross China from Peking (Beijing) to Srinagar (3,500 miles), much of the route being through hostile desert regions and steep Himalayan passes.

Above: English writer Peter Fleming (elder brother of James Bond creator Ian Fleming)

Above: Flag of China

Above: Beijing, China

Above: Srinagar, India

The journey started in February 1935 and took seven months to complete, involving travel by train, on lorries, on foot, horse and camelback.

Their objective was to ascertain what was happening in Xinjiang (Chinese Turkestan) where the Kumul Rebellion (1931 – 1934) had just ended.

Above: (in red) Location of Xinjiang (Chinese Turkestan)

Above: Turkic conscripts of the 36th Division near Kumul – They are carrying Kuomintaung (Chinese Nationalist Party)(blue sky with a white sun) flags.

Above: Emblem of the Kuomintang

Maillart and Fleming met the Hui (Chinese Muslim) forces of General Ma Hushan.

Above: Ma Hushan (1910 – 1954)

Ella Maillart later recorded this trek in her book Forbidden Journey, while Peter Fleming’s parallel account is found in his News from Tartary.

In 1937 Maillart returned to Asia for Le Petit Parisien to report on Afghanistan, Iran and Turkey.

Above: Ella Maillert, Meshid, Iran, 1939

In 1939 she undertook a trip from Geneva to Kabul by car, in the company of the Swiss writer, Annemarie Schwarzenbach. 

The Cruel Way is the title of Maillart’s book about this experience, cut short by the outbreak of the Second World War.

Above: Genève (Geneva), Switzerland

Above: Kabul, Afghanistan

Above: Annemarie Schwarzenbach and Ella Maillert

She spent the war years at Tiruyannamalai in southern India, learning from different teachers about Advaita Vedanta, one of the schools of Hindu philosophy.

Above: Images of Tiruvannamalai, India

On her return to Switzerland in 1945, she lived in Geneva and at Chandolin, a mountain village in the Swiss Alps.

Above: Chandolin, Canton Valais, Switzerland

  • Annemarie Schwarzenbach (1908 – 1942) was a Swiss writer, journalist and photographer.

Above: Annemarie Schwarzenbach

Her bisexual mother brought her up in a masculine style, and her androgynous image suited the bohemian Berlin society of the time, in which she indulged enthusiastically.

Her anti-Fascist campaigning forced her into exile, where she became close to the family of novelist Thomas Mann.

Above: German novelist Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

She would live much of her life abroad as a photojournalist, embarking on many lesbian relationships, and experiencing a growing morphine addiction.

In America, the young Carson McCullers (1917 – 1967) was infatuated with Schwarzenbach, to whom she dedicated Reflections in a Golden Eye.

Above: American writer Carson McCullers (1917 – 1967)

Schwarzenbach reported on the early events of World War II.

On 7 September 1942 in the Engadin, she fell from her bicycle and sustained a serious head injury.

Following a mistaken diagnosis in the Sils clinic where she was treated, she died on 15 November.

Above: Silssee (Lake of Sils), Engadin Valley, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

There always remains a question in my mind as I travel and discover what personalities places have fostered:

Did these places make them the people they became or would they have become what they were regardless of the environment which spawned them?

Had René Robert not had his heart attack in Paris would he have continued to live on?

Why did Maillart and Schwarzenbach, who had seen so much of the world, decide to return to their homeland of Switzerland – a nation famous for both its international diplomacy but insular fortress mentality?

The art that all these people produced is inspirational.

I love the way words and pictures can work together on a page or a screen.

When wise words have visuals added to them, they seem to travel further, like paper airplanes catching an updraught.

I ask myself questions as I once again visualize the quiet beauty of the Altnau of my memories:

How alike to these Swiss artists in any way might I be, might had I become, had I grown up here?

Would I have become a teacher much like Baumgarten, he who travelled the world but remained devoted to his classroom and his Canton and his country?

Or is it my fate to travel the world and die neglected far from home like René Robert or Werner Bischof?

Or would I have simply faded into the scene as beautiful and ignored as Altnau’s apple blossoms in spring?

The other thoughts that possess me as I type these words is the notion that not only are we products of the places we have been but we are as well artifacts of the age we live in.

Could this modern age of social media, audiovisual developments and the Internet have manifested the molds that made women and men like Baumgartner and Bischof, Senn and Schwarzenbach, Mayer and Maillart?

Words and photos have evolved into sound bites and film.

Books are buried by the cacophony of commentary crowding our consciousness continually by the inane insane bombardment of unfiltered information crashing upon us, drowning us in its mindless distraction.

There is so much reality that life feels unreal.

Technology has greatly improved the lives of many people around the world.

The use of the Internet, in particular, has become so widespread in so many countries that our daily existence is now unimaginable without it.

This is not necessarily a positive development.

When social media first started to become popular, it was an innocent extension of the standard types of interactions between friends and new acquaintances.

These days, however, there are two noticeable extremes, both negative:

One is where the platform is used as a substitute for human-to-human interaction.

The second is where it is employed as a way to bully or aggressively intimidate other people.

And I feel there is a third danger lurking in the corridor….

Above: Facebook logo

Above: Instagram logo

Above: WhatsApp logo

Above: Snapchat logo

For hundreds of years, the more forward-thinking elements of science and technology have stoked imaginations in the world of entertainment.

For example, a huge number of sci-fi movies were produced in the 20th century, a period during which space exploration became first a possibility, then a reality.

Many such films depict situations in which one character (in full bodily form) interacts with a 3-D holographic image of another.

Various aspects of society could be going through enormous changes as virtual reality (VR) technology moves towards fully operational and interactive implementation of its potential.

To what extent VR establishes itself as an integral part of our lives and how quickly it is likely to move from niche technology to common usage throughout society remains a matter of deliberation.

VR may well have become sufficiently developed for it to form an essential part of life by the mid-21st century, if not sooner.

Over 40 million people currently own VR headsets.

This figure is expected to double over the next three years.

By 2025, we may well have reached the point at which 200 million users will own a VR viewing device, a head-mounted display (HMD), more commonly known as a VR headset.

We may all prefer to live in a virtual reality that creates an illusion of a reality more desirable than real life itself.

Oh, the seduction promised by this brave new world!

Educators will be presented with a vast array of new opportunities through which to pass on knowledge.

Within the next ten years teachers may become able to move completely away from the course book or flat screen – even the classroom itself – and into an immersive world of instruction and learning.

By way of example, history students could be taken into the epicentre of the world’s greatest battles and conflicts, experiencing and understanding the machinations of victory first-hand.

Medical students may be provided with the opportunity to travel through the human body as if they were themselves the size of a blood cell, building their comprehension of how veins and arteries or nervous systems are interconnected.

Music students will be able to watch a VR orchestra perform their new composition in a venue of their choice, whether that be the local concert hall or even the Sydney Opera House.

Above: Sydney Opera House, Sydney, Australia

A student of Mandarin should one day be able to walk the streets of Beijing, conversing with the local native speakers and practising the regional pronunciation.

Similarly, by the year 2050, the concept of travel may have undergone a profound transformation.

Parts of the world currently inaccessible to most people, whether because the expense of flying is too great or because those places are too remote to be easily reached, will become open to visitors in the form of exact VR replicas of the original cities, rainforests, beaches, and so on.

Not only is this bound to please avid “travellers“, it could also appease the concerned environmentalist.

The number of commercial flight operators each day might well decrease as people opt for VR vacations.

Perhaps one day VR will be replaced by memory implants of having travelled as suggested by Philip K. Dick’s short story “We can remember it for you wholesale“, which was the inspiration for the 1990 film Total Recall and its 2012 remake.

Above: Philip K. Dick (1928 – 1982)

Perhaps in the future, widespread use of remotely controlled androids will enable everyone to live in idealized forms from the safety of their homes, as suggested by Robert Venditti’s comic book series The Surrogates, which became the 2009 sci-fi film Surrogates.

Despite its potential to change life as we know it today, it may even be possible that VR will ultimately fail to catch on in common usage, that HMDs will be consigned to history’s obsolescence in the same way as compact discs (CDs), mini disc players, the Walkman, cassette players, vinyl record players and personal digital assistants (PDAs).

After all, even the technology that today seems improbable will at some point become outdated.

Despite the optimism in some quarters, genuine interaction with holograms in the real world is still as far from becoming a reality as ever, so if the hologram cannot come to Muhammad then Muhammad must enter the world of the hologram.

Above: A compact disc

Above: Mini disc player

Above: Sony Walkman

Above: Cassette player

Above: Vinyl record player

Above: Personal digital assistant

However, what is currently available has begun to be used for entertainment purposes in a wide range of industries.

The music industry is one.

The music industry has sought to take advantage of holographic technology since its infancy.

There have been numerous examples – concerts and events – during which audiences have been able to watch modern vocalists sharing the stage with holographic images of performers who departed this world some time ago.

In fact, the technology has been developed to such an advanced level that it is almost possible to stage an entire concert performed by dead rock stars.

Great actors could also be resurrected.

Above: Hologram version of Buddy Holly (1936 – 1959)

Critics have argued that this is exploitative of both audiences and musicians, putting on stage an artist who has no way of refusing to be there.

This has led some people inside the music industry to predict a future of bands touring without needing to leave the rehearsal studio.

That being said, I think it would be rather unlikely for any fan to buy a ticket to watch their favourite artists, knowing that the performances they have paid to see is not technically a live show and that the musicians they admire do not wish to be present in the same room as they are.

Real-time 3-D representations of artists are becoming ever more accurate, but have less appeal for live audiences than authentic performances do.

As is often the case, the will to create something new and exciting for consumers of entertainment is hindered by the technology currently available to it.

So, if the real live artist cannot come to a concert, then perhaps it is more desirable to enter a virtual reality that brings the artist’s simulation to you.

Above: Holographic version of Roy Orbison (1936 – 1988)

All of this bothers me deeply.

For in this quest for speed, for distraction, for entertainment, for ease and comfort, we have forgotten to give ourselves the time to think and feel, which is crucial to our very existence.

Modern technology of the moment tends to pull us into life patterns that gradually degrade the ways in which each of us exists as an individual.

By immersing ourselves in VR or holographic illusion, to allow ourselves to become slaves to the machines that were designed to serve us, deemphasizes our value as individuals and the intrinsic value of an individual’s unique internal experience and creativity.

As technology gets “better and better“, as civilization becomes more and more digital, we are hurting ourselves.

The more dependent we become upon our technology, the more we lose the ability to self-determine, the more we lose our freedom.

The more we seek to become like everyone else, the more we lose ourselves.

The reality is that until we become someone, we are not ready to share our lives with someone else.

Widespread impersonal communication has demeaned interpersonal interaction.

The most important thing about technology is how it changes people.

For instance, Stanford University research demonstrated that changing the height of one’s avatar in immersive VR transforms self-esteem and social self-perception.

Technologies have become extensions of ourselves.

Different media designs stimulate different potentials in human nature.

We should not seek to make the pack mentality as efficient as possible.

We should instead seek to inspire the phenomenon of individual intelligence.

Algorithms may find correlations between what you say online and your purchases, your romantic adventures, your debts….

But a person is not a pat formula.

Being human is a quest, a mystery, a leap of faith.

Technology is meant to be an extension of our being, not a replacement of it.

I find myself thinking of the 2013 film The Congress and the 1971 sci-fi novel that inspired it – Stanislaw Lem’s The Futurological Congress.

Actress Robin Wright’s longtime agent Al (Harvey Keitel) takes her to meet Jeff Green (Danny Huston), CEO of film production company Miramount Studios, who offers to buy her likeness and digitize her into a computer-animated version of herself.

Realizing she may be unable to find future work with the emergence of this new technology, she agrees to sell the film rights to her digital image to Miramount in exchange for a hefty sum of money.

She is forced to promise never to act again.

After her body is digitally scanned, the studio will be able to make films starring her, using only computer-generated characters.

Since then, Robin’s virtual persona has become the star of a popular sci-fi action film franchise.

Twenty years later, as her contract is about to expire, Robin travels to Abrahama City, where she will speak at Miramount’s entertainment Futurological Conference in the Hotel Miramount Nagasaki, and also to renew her now-expired contract.

Abrahama City is an animated surreal Utopia that is created from figments of people’s imaginations, where anyone can become an animated avatar of themselves, but are required to use hallucinogenic drugs that allow them to enter a mutable illusionary state.

They can become anyone or anything they want to be.

Above: Scene from The Congress

While discussing her new contract, Robin learns that the studio has developed a new technology that will allow anyone to devour her or transform themselves into her.

She agrees to the deal, but has a crisis of conscience and does not believe anyone should be turned into a product.

Asking to speak to the public at the Congress, she publicly voices her contrary views, upsetting the hosts, judges and the councils of the Congress, who are unimpressed with her disapproval.

Above: Scene from The Congress

Shortly afterwards, the Congress is interrupted by an attack of a group of rebel terrorists and protesters ideologically opposed to the technology industry.

The head of the Congress is assassinated.

Returning to the unanimated real world, Robin finds herself in a dystopian environment.

The inhabitants are severely dysfunctional.

Most people have left the real world for an existence in the animated unreal world.

Above: Scene from The Congress

I am also reminded of Fahrenheit 451 and Brave New World.

Above: Movie poster for the 1966 film Fahrenheit 451

Above: Movie poster for 1980 film Brave New World

Fahrenheit 451 presents an American society where books have been personified, outlawed and burnt when found.

Ray Bradbury wrote the book as a commentary on how mass media reduces interest in reading literature, citing political correctness as the real enemy that seeks to control thought and freedom of speech.

Above: Ray Bradbury (1920 – 2012)

Between 1947 and 1948, Bradbury wrote “Bright Phoenix“, a short story about a librarian who confronts a “Chief Censor“, who burns books.

An encounter Bradbury had in 1949 with the police inspired him to write the short story “The Pedestrian” in 1951.

In “The Pedestrian“, a man going for a nighttime walk in his neighborhood is harassed and detained by the police.

In the society of “The Pedestrian“, citizens are expected to watch television as a leisurely activity, a detail that would be included in Fahrenheit 451.

The story features Leonard Mead, a citizen of a television-centered world in November 2053.

In the city the sidewalks have fallen into decay. Mead enjoys walking through the city at night, something which no one else does.

In ten years of walking by night or day, for thousands of miles, he had never met another person walking, not one in all that time.”

On one of his usual walks, he encounters a police car, which is robotic.

It is the only police unit in a city of three million as the purpose of law enforcement has disappeared with everyone watching television at night.

When asked about his profession Mead tells the car that he is a writer, but the car does not understand since no one buys books or magazines in the television-dominated society.

The police car, which is revealed to have no occupants, cannot understand why Mead would be out walking for no reason.

So it decides to take him to the Psychiatric Center for Research on Regressive Tendencies.

As the car passes through his neighborhood, Mead, locked in the confines of the back seat says, “That’s my house.”, as he points to a warm and bright house with all its lights on, unlike all the other houses.

There is no reply.

The story concludes.

The address of the main character, Leonard Mead, happens to be the address of the house in which Bradbury grew up.

This has caused speculation that this short story is actually referring to himself, or is in some related way a message to his home town of Waukegan, Illinois.

Above: Downtown Waukegan, Illinois, USA

The 60th anniversary of Fahrenheit 451 contains the short piece “The Story of Fahrenheit 451” by Jonathan R. Eller.

In it, Eller writes that Bradbury’s inspiration for the story came when he was walking down Wilshire Boulevard in Los Angeles with a friend in late 1949.

On their walk, a police cruiser pulled up and asked what they were doing.

Bradbury answered, “Well, we’re putting one foot in front of the other.

The policemen did not appreciate Ray’s joke and became suspicious of Bradbury and his friend for walking in an area where there were no pedestrians.

Inspired by this experience, he wrote “The Pedestrian“.

The short novella that would later evolve into Fahrenheit 451.

Above: “The Miracle Mile“, Wiltshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, California, USA – this stretch of Wilshire near the La Brea Tar Pits was named “Miracle Mile” for its improbable rise to prominence

What’s the matter with the clothes I’m wearing?
“Can’t you tell that your tie’s too wide?”
Maybe I should buy some old tab collars?
“Welcome back to the age of jive
Where have you been hidin’ out lately, honey?
You can’t dress trashy till you spend a lot of money”
Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the car I’m driving?
“Can’t you tell that it’s out of style?”
Should I get a set of white wall tires?
“Are you gonna cruise the Miracle Mile?
Nowadays you can’t be too sentimental
Your best bet’s a true baby blue Continental”
Hot funk, cool punk, even if it’s old junk
It’s still rock and roll to me

Oh, it doesn’t matter what they say in the papers
‘Cause it’s always been the same old scene
There’s a new band in town
But you can’t get the sound from a story in a magazine…
Aimed at your average teen

How about a pair of pink sidewinders
And a bright orange pair of pants?
“You could really be a Beau Brummell baby
If you just give it half a chance
Don’t waste your money on a new set of speakers,
You get more mileage from a cheap pair of sneakers”
Next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the crowd I’m seeing?
“Don’t you know that they’re out of touch?”
Should I try to be a straight ‘A’ student?
“If you are then you think too much
Don’t you know about the new fashion honey?
All you need are looks and a whole lotta money”
It’s the next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock and roll to me

Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

In Fahrenheit 451, Leonard’s character can be considered similar to that of Clarisse McClellan‘s uncle, who tells of a similar story repeated by her niece to Montag.

The Pedestrian” was adapted for radio and broadcast on the CBC (Canadian Broadcasting Corporation) program Theatre 10:30 (1968 – 1971).

Above: Corporate flag of the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (CBC)

The story was made into an episode of The Ray Bradbury Theatre, starring David Ogden Stiers as Leonard Mead.

Above: David Ogden Stiers (as Leonard Mead) (1942 – 2018)

Elements of both “Bright Phoenix” and “The Pedestrian” would be combined into “The Fireman“, a novella published in 1951.

Bradbury was urged to make “The Fireman” into a full novel. 

Simple pleasures and interests make one an outcast.

Bradbury recounts a history of how books lost their value as people began to embrace new media, sports, and an ever-quickening pace of life.

Books were ruthlessly abridged or degraded to accommodate shorter attention spans.

Books were condemned as sources of confusing and distressing thoughts that only complicated people’s lives.

In Aldous Huxley’s Brave New World, society’s methods of keeping its citizens peaceful is with the constant consumption of a soothing, happiness-producing drug, soma.

I am also reminded of the 2002 American dystopian sci-fi film Equilibrium:

Libria, a totalitarian city-state established by survivors of World War III, blames human emotion as the cause for the war.

Any activity or object that stimulates emotion is strictly forbidden.

Those in violation are labelled “Sense Offenders” and sentenced to death.

The population is forced to take a daily injection of “Prozium II” to suppress emotion.

Libria is governed by the Tetragrammaton Council, led by “Father“, who communicates propaganda through giant video screens throughout the city.

Above: Flag of Libria: The four Ts on the flag represent the Tetragrammaton Council.

At the pinnacle of law enforcement are the Grammaton Clerics, trained in the martial art of gun kata.

Clerics frequently raid homes to search for and destroy illegal materials – art, literature and music – executing violators on the spot.

A resistance movement, known as the “Underground“, emerges to topple Father and the Tetragrammaton Council.

The film follows John Preston (Christian Bale), an enforcement officer in a future in which feelings and artistic expression are outlawed and citizens take daily injections of powerful psychoactive drugs to suppress their emotions.

After accidentally missing a dose, Preston begins to experience emotions, which makes him question his morality and moderate his actions while attempting to remain undetected by the suspicious society in which he lives.

Ultimately, he aids the resistance movement using advanced martial arts, which he was taught by the regime he is helping to overthrow.

Above: Christian Bale (as John Preston), Equilibrium

Insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space and will to walk and think, to see and imagine, and against all that these acts embody.

We live in an age of fear of the time in-between, the time it takes to get from here to there, moments of meandering, of rushing and running.

The time in-between has been deplored as a waste, requiring reduction, silence silenced by earphones playing music, the serendipity of the scene that surrounds us is ignored by eyes downcast drawn to mobile phones.

The very ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the “useless“, is evaporating, as has appreciation of the outside – anything outside the familiar.

Mobile phones are our buffer against solitude, silence and encounters with the unknown.

But it is only in solitude and silence can we learn to love our own company and can hear our own mind.

It is encounters with the unknown through which we can learn to live and discover the myriad possibilities of existence.

Dependency on our devices is not freedom.

Dependency is merely distraction from our fears of the unknown.

Distraction ultimately leads to destruction of self.

What we’re living in?
Lemme tell ya

Yeah, it’s a wonder man can eat at all
When things are big that should be small
Who can tell what magic spells we’ll be doing for us

And I’m giving all my love to this world
Only to be told
I can’t see, I can’t breathe
No more will we be

And nothing’s gonna change the way we live
‘Cause we can always take, but never give
And now that things are changing for the worse, see
Whoa, it’s a crazy world we’re living in
And I just can’t see that half of us immersed in sin
Is all we have to give these

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground

And I’m thinking what a mess we’re in
Hard to know where to begin
If I could slip the sickly ties that earthly man has made
And now every mother can choose the color
Of her child, that’s not nature’s way

Well, that’s what they said yesterday
There’s nothing left to do, but pray
I think it’s time to find a new religion

Whoa, it’s so insane
To synthesize another strain
There’s something in these futures
That we have to be told

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground, wow

Now there is no sound
If we all live underground
And now it’s virtual insanity
Forget your virtual reality

Oh, there’s nothing so bad
As a manmade man
Oh, yeah, I know, yeah (take it to the dance floor)

I know I can’t go on

Of this virtual insanity we’re living in
Has got to change, yeah
Things will never be the same
And I can’t go on
Where we’re living in
Oh, oh, virtual insanity

Oh, this world
He’s got to change
‘Cause I just
I just can’t keep going on in this virtual, virtual insanity
That we’re living in, that we’re living in
And that virtual insanity is what is, yeah

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground, oh

Futures made of, now, virtual insanity
Now we all, we seem to be governed by a love
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
And now there is no sound, for we all live underground
Yes, we do, oh

Now this life that we live in
(Virtual insanity) it’s all going wrong
Out of the window (living in)
Do you know there is nothing worse than (virtual insanity)

A manmade man
(Virtual insanity) There’s nothing worse than
(Living in) a foolish man
(Virtual insanity) Hey!

Virtual insanity is what we’re living in, yeah
Well… It’s alright

Altnau is a small town, full of life and light and love, but one must walk its streets and stroll along its shore and meander through its apple orchards and linger on its jetty to capture its universal language.

Its past and the teacher-photographer who emerged from it and those of his ilk whose photographs captured the beauty of the canton, the country, the world, remind us that beauty is accessible to everyone, anywhere and everywhere, if only we choose to see it.

Walk away from your laptops and mobile phones.

Look up to the glory of the heavens instead.

Pull the phones from your ears.

Listen to the orchestra of songbirds, the crash of waves, and the whisper of your own thoughts.

Reject VR.

Choose reality.

Turn off the TV.

Switch off the radio.

Ignore movies that rob us of imagination.

Resist stimulants and distractions.

Learn to love life as it is in all its complexity.

Read a great work of literature.

Look at photographs and pictures.

Walk and make your own memories.

Words are the expression of thought.

Pictures are the expression of emotion.

Walking is the synchronicity of both thought and emotion in a symphony of all the senses.

Another suburban family morning.
Grandmother screaming at the wall.

We have to shout above the din of our Rice Crispies
We can’t hear anything at all.
Mother chants her litany of boredom and frustration,
But we know all her suicides are fake.

Daddy only stares into the distance
There’s only so much more that he can take.


Many miles away something crawls from the slime
At the bottom of a dark Scottish lake.

Another industrial ugly morning
The factory belches filth into the sky.
He walks unhindered through the picket lines today,
He doesn’t think to wonder why.
The secretaries pout and preen like cheap tarts in a red light street,
But all he ever thinks to do is watch.
And every single meeting with his so-called superior
Is a humiliating kick in the crotch.


Many miles away something crawls to the surface
Of a dark Scottish loch.

Another working day has ended.
Only the rush hour hell to face.
Packed like lemmings into shiny metal boxes.
Contestants in a suicidal race.
Daddy grips the wheel and stares alone into the distance,
He knows that something somewhere has to break.
He sees the family home now looming in his headlights,
The pain upstairs that makes his eyeballs ache.


Many miles away there’s a shadow on the door
Of a cottage on the shore
Of a dark Scottish lake
Many miles away [7x]

Altnau is nowhere special.

Altnau is everywhere special.

Discover your own Altnau.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Ray Bradbury, Fahrenheit 451 / The Pedestrian / Evliya Çelebi, The Book of Travels / Philip K. Dick, We can remember it for you wholesale / Aldous Huxley, Brave New World / Jamiroquai, Virtual Insanity / Billy Joel, Allentown / It’s still rock & roll to me / Movin’ Out / Jaron Lanier, You Are Not a Gadget / Stanislaw Lem, The Futurological Congress / The Police, Synchronicity II / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Louise Purwin Zobel: The Travel Writer’s Handbook

Wonderwall

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Monday 21 November 2022

Above: Cover of the single “Wonderwall“, Oasis

I have next to no memory of Miami.

Above: Images of Miami, Florida

In my travels, in my 20s, my focus was on Fort Lauderdale where my mother is buried and the Overseas Highway to Key West.

Above: Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Above: Seeming to converge in the distance, the Seven-Mile Bridge on the Florida Keys Scenic Highway west of Marathon, Florida, runs parallel to the historic Flagler Railroad Bridge of the early 1900s with the Atlantic Ocean to the South and the Gulf of Mexico to the North.

There is little I regret about my hitch-hiking days, but the lack of money I possessed meant there were many places in America that I could not afford to visit in the manner I would have wished.

The Floridan cities I recall were cities either connected with the search for my mother’s roots or en route to somewhere else.

Above: Flag of Florida

My memories of Jacksonville, St. Augustine, Fort Lauderdale, Key West, St. Petersburg, Tarpon Springs, Port St. Joe and Fort Walton Beach are strong and stark in my mind.

Above: Images of Jacksonville, Florida

Above: Images of St. Augustine, Florida

Above: Aerial view of Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Above: Southernmost Point Buoy Monument, Key West, Florida

Above: St. Petersburg, Florida

Above: Tarpon Springs, Florida

Above: Port St. Joe, Florida

Above: Fort Walton Beach, Florida

My sole memory of Miami was trying to sleep under a tractor-trailer.

In retrospect, a dumb decision.

What little I saw of Miami remains a distorted blur at best.

I regret that, for there is much of Miami that appeals to me.

Above: Miami, Florida

Miami, officially the City of Miami, known as “the 305“, “The Magic City“, and “Gateway to the Americas” is a coastal metropolis and the county seat of Miami – Dade County in South Florida.

With a population of 442,241 (2020), it is the 2nd most populous city in Florida and the 11th most populous city in the southeastern United States.

The Miami metropolitan area is the 9th largest in the US, with a population of 6.138 million people (2020).

The city has the 3rd largest skyline in the US with over 300 skyscrapers, 58 of which exceed 491 ft (150 m).

Miami is a major center and leader in finance, commerce, culture, arts, and international trade.

Miami’s metropolitan area is by far the largest urban economy in Florida and the 12th largest in the US, with a GDP of $344.9 billion (2017).

According to a 2018 UBS study of 77 world cities, Miami is the 2nd richest city in the US and 3rd richest globally in purchasing power.

Miami has a Hispanic population of 310,472, or 70.2% of the city’s population (2020).

Above: Miami, Florida

Downtown Miami has one of the largest concentrations of international banks in the US and is home to many large national and international companies.

Above: Miami, Florida

The Health District is home to several major University of Miami-affiliated hospital and health facilities, including Jackson Memorial, the nation’s largest hospital with 1,547 beds, and the Leonard M. Miller School of Medicine, the University of Miami’s academic medical center and teaching hospital, and others engaged in health-related care and research. 

Above: Jackson Memorial Hospital, Miami, Florida

Port Miami, the city’s seaport, is the busiest cruise port in the world in both passenger traffic and cruise lines.

Above: Port of Miami, Miami, Florida

Miami is the 2nd largest tourism hub for international visitors, after New York City. 

Miami has sometimes been called the Gateway to Latin America because of the magnitude of its commercial and cultural ties to the region.

In 2019, Miami ranked 7th in the US in business activity, human capital, information exchange, cultural experience and political engagement.

Above: Miami, Florida

Miami – Dade College, with more than 165,000 students, is America’s largest institution of higher learning, and one of the country’s best community college systems.

This community college has locations in Hialeah, Homestead, Kendall, Downtown Miami, and North Miami as well as locations all around Miami proper.

In Coral Gables is the University of Miami, one of the best-known universities in Florida.

Above: Otto G. Richter Library, University of Miami, Coral Gables, Florida

One of the state’s largest universities, Florida International University (more commonly FIU), is in University Park, just to the west of the Miami city limits.

Miami was named in 1896 after the Miami River, derived from Mayaimi, the historic name of Lake Okeechobee and the Native Americans who lived around it.

Above: Mouth of the Miami River, Brickell Key, Florida

The Tequesta tribe occupied the Miami area for around 2,000 years before contact with Europeans.

A village of hundreds of people, dating to 600 BCE, was located at the mouth of the Miami River.

It is believed that the entire tribe migrated to Cuba by the mid-1700s.

Above: Bronze statue of a Tequesta warrior and his family on the Brickell Avenue Bridge, Miami, Florida 

In 1566, Admiral Pedro Menéndez de Avilés, Florida’s first governor, claimed the area for Spain.

Above: Pedro Menéndez de Avilés (1519 – 1574)

Above: Flag of the Spanish Empire (1492 – 1976)

A Spanish mission was constructed one year later.

Spain and Britain successively ruled Florida until Spain ceded it to the United States in 1821.

In 1836, the US built Fort Dallas on the banks of the Miami River as part of their development of the Florida Territory and their attempt to suppress and remove the Seminoles.

As a result, the Miami area became a site of fighting in the Second Seminole War (1835 – 1842), “the longest and most costly of the Indian conflicts of the United States”.

Above: Lummus Park Historic District, Miami, Florida –  Old plantation slave quarters, moved here from Fort Dallas

Above: This view of a Seminole village shows the log cabins they lived in prior to the disruptions of the Second Seminole War.

Miami is noted as the only major city in the United States founded by a woman. 

Julia Tuttle, a local citrus grower and a wealthy Cleveland native, was the original owner of the land upon which the city was built.

In the late 19th century, the area was known as “Biscayne Bay Country“.

Reports described it as a promising wilderness and “one of the finest building sites in Florida“.

The Great Freeze of 1894 – 1895 hastened Miami’s growth, as the crops there were the only ones in Florida that survived.

Above: Damage to an orange grove because of cold – Bartow, Florida – 1 January 1895

(Orlando reached an all-time record low of 18 °F (−8 °C) on 29 December 1894.

Above: Orlando, Florida

In the second cold wave (1895), West Palm Beach recorded all time record low of 27 °F (−3 °C) on 9 February 1895.

Above: West Palm Beach, Florida

A snowstorm produced unprecedented snowfall amounts along the Gulf Coast, including 22 inches (56 cm) in Houston, Texas.

Above: States that border the Gulf of Mexico are shown in red.

Above: Houston, Texas

Snow fell as far south as Tampico, Mexico, within the Tropic of Cancer, the lowest latitude in North America that snow has been recorded at sea level.)

Above: Plaza de la Libertad, Centro Historico, Tampico, Tamaulipas State, Mexico

Above: World map with the Tropic of Cancer (red line)

Julia Tuttle subsequently convinced railroad tycoon Henry Flagler to extend his Florida East Coat Railway to the region, for which she became known as “the mother of Miami“.

Above: Henry Morrison Flagler (1830 – 1913)

Above: Route of the Florida East Coast Railroad (red line)

Miami was officially incorporated as a city on 28 July 1896, with a population of just over 300.

African American labor played a crucial role in Miami’s early development.

Above: Julia DeForest Tuttle (1849 – 1898)

During the early 20th century, migrants from the Bahamas and African Americans constituted 40% of the city’s population. 

Despite their role in the city’s growth, their community was limited to a small space.

When landlords began to rent homes to African-Americans around Avenue J (what would later become NW Fifth Avenue), a gang of white men with torches marched through the neighborhood and warned the residents to move or be bombed.

Above: Avenue J, Miami, Florida

Miami prospered during the 1920s with an increase in population and development in infrastructure as northerners moved to the city.

The legacy of Jim Crow was embedded in these developments.

The Jim Crow laws were state and local laws enforcing racial segregation in the Southern US.

Above: Cover to early edition of “Jump Jim Crow” sheet music – Thomas D. Rice (1908 – 1960) is pictured in his blackface role:

He was performing at the Bowery Theatre (New York City)(also known as the “American Theatre“) at the time.

This image was highly influential on later Jim Crow and minstrelsy images.

Miami’s chief of police at the time, Howard Leslie Quigg, did not hide the fact that he, like many other white Miami police officers, was a member of the Ku Klux Klan.

Unsurprisingly, these officers enforced social codes far beyond the written law.

Quigg, for example, “personally and publicly beat a colored bellboy to death for speaking directly to a white woman“.

Above: Howard Leslie Quigg (1888 – 1980)

Above: Flag of the Ku Klux Klan

The collapse of the Florida land boom of the 1920s, the 1926 Miami Hurricane, and the Great Depression in the 1930s slowed development.

(The Florida land boom of the 1920s was Florida’s first real estate bubble.

This pioneering era of Florida land speculation lasted from 1924 to 1926 and attracted investors from all over the nation.

The land boom left behind entirely new, planned developments incorporated into towns and cities.

Major investors and speculators left behind a new history of racially deed restricted properties that segregated cities for decades.

Among those cities at the center of this bubble were Miami Beach, Coral Gables, Hialeah, Miami Springs, Opa-locka, Miami Shores and Hollywood.

Above: Miami Beach, Florida

Above: Coral Gables, Florida

Above: Palm Avenue, Hialeah, Florida

Above: Hialeah Park taken in the 1930s, “Hialeah Park, Fla., the world’s greatest race course, Miami Jockey Club.

Above: The Glenn H. Curtiss House, located at 500 Deer Run in Miami Springs, Florida, was built in 1925 by aviation pioneer and real estate developer Glenn Hammond Curtiss (1878 – 1930).

It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2001.

Above: City Hall, Opa Locka, Florida

Above: Downtown, Miami Shores, Florida

Above: Hollywood, Florida

It also left behind the remains of failed development projects such as:

  • Aladdin City

Above: Original lot plan of Aladdin City (originally platted and still existing streets in green), 1 January 1927

  • Fulford-by-the-Sea

Above: Fulford by the Sea Monument, North Miami Beach, Florida

  • Isola di Lolando

Above: Isola di Lolando is an unfinished artificial island in Biscayne Bay, Florida.

Hurricane damage and economic collapse caused the project to be abandoned shortly after the start of construction, but pilings remain visible in the bay and are a hazard to navigation.

  • Boca Raton

Above: Boca Raton, Florida

  • Okeelanta

Above: Photograph of the house of Thomas E. Will, the founder of Okeelanta, Florida, the Everglades’ first planned community, on the North New River Canal in Okeelanta, 9 September 1916

  • Palm Beach Ocean

Above: Sailfish Marina, Singer Island (Palm Beach Ocean), Florida

The land boom shaped Florida’s future for decades and created entire new cities out of the Everglades land that remain today.

The story includes many parallels to the real estate boom of the 2000s, including the forces of outside speculators, easy credit access for buyers, and rapidly appreciating property values, ending in a financial collapse that ruined thousands of investors and property owners, and crippled the local economy for years thereafter.

Proving once again the adage that those who do not learn from history was destined to repeat it.)

(The Great Miami Hurricane of 1926 was a large and intense tropical cyclone that devastated the Greater Miami area and caused catastrophic damage in the Bahamas and the US Gulf Coast in September 1926, accruing a US $100 million damage toll.

As a result of the devastation wrought by the hurricane in Florida, the Land Boom in Florida ended.

The hurricane represented an early start to the Great Depression in the aftermath of the state’s 1920s land boom.

It has been estimated that a similar hurricane would cause about $235 billion in damage if it were to hit Miami today.)

Above: Damage from 1926 hurricane, Miami Beach, Florida

(The Great Depression was a period of great economic depression worldwide between 1929 and 1939 became evident after a major fall in stock prices in the US.

The economic contagion began around September and led to the Wall Street stock market crash of 24 October 1929 (Black Thursday).

The economic shock impacted most countries across the world to varying degrees.

It was the longest, deepest, and most widespread depression of the 20th century.

Between 1929 and 1932, worldwide gross domestic price (GDP) fell by an estimated 15%.

By comparison, worldwide GDP fell by less than 1% from 2008 to 2009 during the Great Recession.

Some economies started to recover by the mid-1930s.

However, in many countries, the negative effects of the Great Depression lasted until the beginning of World War II. 

Devastating effects were seen in both rich and poor countries with falling personal income, prices, tax revenues, and profits.

International trade fell by more than 50%, unemployment in the US rose to 23% and in some countries rose as high as 33%.

Cities around the world were hit hard, especially those dependent on heavy industry.

Construction was virtually halted in many countries.

Farming communities and rural areas suffered as crop prices fell by about 60%.

Faced with plummeting demand and few job alternatives, areas dependent on primary sector industries suffered the most.

Economic historians usually consider the catalyst of the Great Depression to be the sudden devastating collapse of US stock market prices, starting on 24 October 1929.

However, some dispute this conclusion, seeing the stock crash less as a cause of the Depression and more as a symptom of the rising nervousness of investors partly due to gradual price declines caused by falling sales of consumer goods (as a result of overproduction because of new production techniques, falling exports and income inequality, among other factors) that had already been underway as part of a gradual Depression.)

Above: Poor mother and children during the Great Depression. Elm Grove, Oklahoma County, Oklahoma, 1 August 1936

It was the city’s support of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s New Deal that helped the city rebuild.

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945) (US President: 1933 – 1945)

Roosevelt almost lost his life, however, when Giuseppe Zangara attempted to assassinate Roosevelt when he came to Miami to thank the city for its support of the New Deal.

On 15 February 1933, 17 days before Roosevelt’s inauguration, during an impromptu speech at night from the back of an open car by Roosevelt, Zangara fired five shots with a handgun he had purchased a couple of days before.

Zangara, armed with a .32-caliber pistol he had bought for $8 (equivalent to $170 in 2021) at a local pawn shop, joined the crowd of spectators, but as he was only 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, he was unable to see over other people and had to stand on a wobbly metal folding chair, peering over the hat of Lillian Cross to get a clear aim at his target.

He placed his gun over Mrs. Cross’ right shoulder.

(She was only about 4 inches taller than he was and weighed 105 pounds)

After Zangara fired the first shot, Cross and others grabbed his arm, and he fired four more shots wildly.

Five people were hit:

  • Mrs. Joseph H. Gill (seriously wounded in the abdomen)
  • Miss Margaret Kruis of Newark, New Jersey (minor wound in hand and a scalp wound)
  • New York detective/bodyguard William Sinnott (superficial head wound)
  • Russell Caldwell of Miami (flesh wound on the forehead)
  • Chicago Mayor Anton Cermak, who was standing on the running board of the car next to Roosevelt.
  • Mrs Cross had powder burns on her right cheek.
  • Secret Service agent Bob Clark had a grazed hand, possibly caused by the bullet that struck Cermak. 
  • The intended target, Roosevelt, was unharmed.

Roosevelt cradled the mortally wounded Cermak in his arms as the car rushed to the hospital.

After arriving there, Cermak spoke to Roosevelt, and before he died 19 days later, allegedly uttered the line that is engraved on his tomb:

I’m glad it was me, not you.

Above: Anton Cermak (1873 – 1933)

Above: Giuseppe Zangara (1900 – 1933)

The New Deal was a series of programs, public work projects, financial reforms, and regulations enacted between 1933 and 1939.

Major federal programs agencies included the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) (1933 – 1942), the Works Progress Administration (WPA) (1935 – 1943), the Civil Works Administration (CWA) (1933 – 1934), the Farm Security Administration (FSA) (1937 – 1946), the National Industrial Recovery Act of 1933 (NIRA) and the Social Security Administration (SSA).

They provided support for farmers, the unemployed, youth, and the elderly.

The New Deal included new constraints and safeguards on the banking industry and efforts to re-inflate the economy after prices had fallen sharply.

New Deal programs included both laws passed by Congress as well as presidential executive orders.

Above; Construction of the Huntsville High School athletic field (Goldsmith-Schiffman Stadium) in Huntsville, Alabama

Above: NRA (National Recovery Administration) member: We Do Our Part

When World War II (1939 – 1945) began, Miami became a base for US defense against German submarines due to its prime location on the southern coast of Florida.

When a German U-boat sank a US tanker off Florida’s coast, the majority of South Florida was converted into military headquarters for the remainder of World War II.

The Army’s World War II legacy in Miami is a school designed for anti-U-boat warfare.

Above: German U-boat submarine

This brought an increase in Miami’s population:

172,172 people lived in the city by 1940.

The city’s nickname, The Magic City, came from its rapid growth, which was noticed by winter visitors who remarked that the city grew so much from one year to the next that it was like magic.

After Fidel Castro rose to power in Cuba following the Cuban Revolution (1953 – 1959), many wealthy Cubans sought refuge in Miami, further increasing the city’s population.

Above: Fidel Castro (1926 – 2016)

Above: Flag of Cuba

Miami developed new businesses and cultural amenities as part of the New South in the 1980s and 1990s.

At the same time, South Florida weathered social problems related to drug wars, immigration from Haiti and Latin America, and the widespread destruction of Hurricane Andrew.

Above: Title screen, TV series Miami Vice (1984 – 1989)

Above: Movie poster, Miami Vice (2006)

Above: Flag of Haiti

Above: Hurricane Andrewnear peak intensity east of the Bahamas, 23 August 1992

Racial and cultural tensions sometimes sparked, but the city developed in the latter half of the 20th century as a major international, financial, and cultural center.

It is the second-largest US city with a Spanish-speaking majority (after El Paso, Texas), and the largest city with a Cuban-American plurality.

Above: El Paso, Texas

If you are not from the US but wish to work here, you will need a work visa. 

If you try to work while holding a tourist visa, you are still considered an illegal immigrant in the US.

Above: Sample of a tourist visa

The Immigration and Nationalization Services (INS) conduct frequent illegal immigrant checks in Miami businesses since Miami has numerous refugees from Cuba, Haiti and other nearby countries.

If you don’t have the right visa, you may not get a job in Miami.

There is an exception to getting work without a visa in Miami, however.

Above: Miami, Florida

Since yachts and cruise ships sail on international waters, these companies can freely hire any person they like.

Non-US citizens will still require a valid seaman’s visa, however, to land in US ports.

Above: Sample of a seafarer’s visa

I haven’t the foggiest idea of how to obtain such a prize, but my understanding is that apart from introducing yourself to boat owners at the docks, the primary ways to find a crewing position in the US are by registering with a crewing agency, staying in a crew house where you are likely to hear of forthcoming vacancies, answering an advert on a yachting website or hanging around a yachting supply store, some of which have noticeboards.

If intending to sign up with a crewing agency, it is essential to do so in person.

At that time you can enquire about visas, though you are likely to be told that it is permissible to join the crew of a foreign-registered yacht on a tourist visa provided you don’t cruise in American waters for longer than 29 days (whereupon you should have a B-1 business visa).

A number of crewing agencies are located north of Miami in Fort Lauderdale, the yachting capital of Florida, including Crewfinders and Elite Crew International.

The website Crewfinders International has links to accommodation for people seeking crew positions.

People working or staying at one of the many crew houses in Fort Lauderdale will soon tell you the agencies with which it is worth registering.

Experienced crew often bypass the agencies and simply ask captains directly.

Cooks are especially in demand.

Above: Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Foodies and chefs alike herald Miami for its unique American cuisine.

Created in the 1990s, the cuisine alternatively known as New World, Nuevo Latino or Flori-bbean cuisine blends local produce, Latin American and Caribbean culinary tradition and the technical skills required in European cooking.

Above: Mangu with veggie meat

Above: Asado Uruguayo

Above: Sweet potato crusted salmon on salad

Miami may be known for its Latin American cuisine (especially its Cuban cuisine but also cuisines from South American countries such as Colombia), but there are other different kinds of restaurants to be found around the city.

In addition to stand-alone Chinese, Japanese, Middle Eastern, and Italian (among others) restaurants, there are cafés, steakhouses and restaurants operating from boutique hotels, as well as chain restaurants such as TGI Fridays and Ben & Jerry’s.

Above: Tropical Chinese Restaurant Yorumlari, Miami, Florida

Above: Doraku Japanese Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Above: Layali Middle Eastern Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Above: Alloy Italian Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Miami is known for having nightclubs double as restaurants throughout the city.

Most of these restaurants, such as Tantra, BED and the Pearl Restaurant and Champagne Lounge (attached to Nikki Beach), are found throughout South Beach.

Above: B.E.D. Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Above: Pearl Restaurant, Miami, Florida

However, some of these restaurants/nightclubs like Grass Lounge can be found in the Design District (north of downtown but south of North Miami).

Above: Grass Restaurant, Miami, Florida

If many of Miami’s premiere restaurants don’t fit into your daily budget, consider eating during Miami Restaurant Month (better known as Miami Spice) in August and September.

Miami’s dining scene reflects burgeoning diversity, mixing exotic newcomer restaurants with long-standing institutions, often seasoned by Latin influence and hot winds of the Caribbean.

New World cuisine, a culinary counterpart to accompany Miami’s New World Symphony, provides a loose fusion of Latin, Asian, and Caribbean flavors utilizing fresh, area-grown ingredients.

Innovative restaurateurs and chefs similarly reel in patrons with Floribbean-flavored seafood fare, while keeping true to down-home Florida favorites.

Don’t be fooled by the plethora of super lean model types you’re likely to see posing throughout Miami.

Contrary to popular belief, dining in this city is as much a sport as the in-line skating on Ocean Drive.

With over 6,000 restaurants to choose from, dining out in Miami has become a passionate pastime for locals and visitors alike.

Its star chefs have fused Californian-Asian with Caribbean and Latin elements to create a world-class flavor all its own: Floribbean.

Think mango chutney splashed over fresh swordfish or a spicy sushi sauce served alongside Peruvian ceviche.

Whatever you’re craving, Miami’s got it — with the exception of decent Chinese food and a New York-style slice of pizza.

On the mainland — especially in Coral Gables, and, more recently, downtown and on Brickell Avenue — you can also experience fine, creative dining without the pretense.

There are several Peruvian restaurants in Kendale Lakes, out of the way, but worth it.

Nightlife in Miami consists of upscale hotel clubs, independent bars frequented by locals (including sports bars) and nightclubs.

Most hotel bars and independent bars turn the other cheek at your physical appearance, but you have to dress to impress (which does not mean dress like a stripper) to get into a nightclub.

Also remember to never, under any circumstances, insult the doormen and/or nightclub employees that will grant you entry or touch the velvet ropes or you may as well be sitting on the opposite side of the clamoring masses trying to get in.

Attempting to tip the doormen and claiming that you know employees that work in the nightclubs (unless you actually called and reserved a table or a spot on the VIP list) is also considered an affront.

Getting to the club unfashionably early and pushing through the crowd (and not the doormen) also can help make you stand out in the crowd.

Finally, most nightclubs won’t admit groups of men unless those men are waiting in front of a gay bar.

Bring some women or leave the pack if you’re desperate to get in.

And once you get in, remember that the charge to get in these clubs can cost up to $20 — cash only (some clubs, however, mercifully have ATMs — that can charge up to $7 for a withdrawal).

Popular drinks in Miami include the Cuba Libre and the mojito.

Above: Cuba Libre

Above: Mojito

Although tourists generally consider Miami Beach to be part of Miami, Miami Beach is its own municipality.

Miami Beach sits on a barrier island east of Miami and Biscayne Bay.

It is home to lots of beach resorts and is one of the most popular spring break party destinations in the world.

But I don’t want to talk about Miami Beach, only Miami itself.

Above: Miami Beach, Florida

Some other sights associated with Miami, like the Miami Zoo and the Miami Dolphins football team, are in other suburbs within Miami – Dade County, and two other institutions associated with Miami, the Florida Panthers hockey team and Inter Miami CF soccer team, play home games in Broward County.

Above: Logo of the Miami Dolphins National Football League (NFL) team

Above: Logo of the Florida Panthers National Hockey League (NHL) team

Why there is hockey in tropical places still mystifies me.

The City of Miami is divided into seven districts: Downtown, MiMo Boulevard, the Design District, Coconut Grove, Little Havana, Overtown and Midtown.

Downtown is Miami’s Central Business District (CBD) with its skies full of scrapers.

Above: Downtown Miami

MiMo is home to post WW2 modern architecture.

Above: MiMo District, Miami

The Design District is a small artsy neighbourhood north of Downtown.

Above: Design District, Miami

Coconut Grove is a cosmopolitan community on the coast south of Downtown.

Above: Coconut Grove

Little Havana is a heavily Latin American neighborhood – now inhabited by Central and South Americans rather than Cubans.

Above: Little Havana, Miami

Overtown is a historic African-American neighborhood.

Midtown is….well, Midtown.

Above: Midtown Miami

The city has also been the base for cocaine smuggling, depicted in the 1983 film Scarface.

Miami’s crime rate is a routine topic of news media, but the city is only relatively dangerous for the passing tourist in certain areas.

Almost all crime is related to the illegal drug trade, owing to Miami’s proximity to the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, which makes it a major transit point for narcotics from South America. 

Overtown (next to Liberty City) has the highest violent crime rate in the city and is best avoided altogether.

Above: Overtown, Miami, Florida

Opalocka / Miami Garden and Little Haiti are also best avoided at night.

Above: Opalocka, Florida

Above: Miami Garden, Florida

Above: Little Haiti, Miami, Florida

If you are in any crime-afflicted neighborhood, take the same precautions as you would in other dangerous neighborhoods in the US:

Mind your own business.

Be aware of your surroundings at night and in high-traffic areas.

Get to your destination quickly.

Avoid wearing flashy jewelry and electronics.

Because of its proximity to the Tropic of Cancer, Miami is generally hot.

The summer months of June–September will see most daytime highs over 90°F (32°C).

Combined with the region’s humidity, these can make for stifling temperatures, both day and night.

You won’t see nearly a car or home without running air conditioning.

Winters average an impressive 75°F (24°C) for daytime temperatures and nights are slightly cooler.

During June to November, rain and thunderstorms can be expected and are most common in the afternoon hours.

Rain is known to fall heavily for a few minutes, to stop entirely, and then to begin again.

Knowing its mercurial nature, local residents often drive or go outside in rainy weather to enjoy its cooling effect or to make good use of breaks in the storm.

Above: Miami, Florida

Miami has the largest Latin American population outside of Latin America, with nearly 65% of its population either from Latin America or of Latin American ancestry. 

Spanish is a language often used for day-to-day discourse in many places, although English is the language of preference, especially when dealing with business and government.

Many locals do not speak English, but this is usually centered among shops and restaurants in residential communities and rarely the case in large tourist areas or the downtown district.

Even when encountering a local who does not speak English, you can easily find another local to help with translation if needed, since most of the population is fluently bilingual.

In certain neighborhoods, such as Little Havana and Hialeah, most locals will address a person first in Spanish and then in English.

Spanglish“, a mixture of English and Spanish, is a somewhat common occurrence (but less so than in the American Southwest), with bilingual locals switching between English and Spanish mid-sentence and occasionally replacing a common English word for its Spanish equivalent and vice versa.

Haitian Creole is another language heard primarily in northern Miami.

It is common for a person to hear a conversation in this French-based Creole when riding public transportation or sitting at a restaurant.

Many signs and public announcements are in English, Spanish and Haitian Creole because of Miami’s diverse immigrant population.

Unlike Spanish, Haitian Creole is generally centered among the Haitian neighborhoods in northern Miami.

Most Haitians are more adapted to English than their Hispanic neighbors. 

Above: Location of Haiti (in green)

Portuguese and French are other languages that may be encountered in Miami.

These languages tend to be spoken mainly around tourist areas.

Most speakers of these languages speak English as well.

Above: Map of the Portuguese language in the world   Dark green: Native language.   Green: Official and administrative language.   Light Green: Cultural or secondary language.   Yellow: Portuguese-based creole. Green square: Portuguese speaking minorities.

Above: The French language in the world

Graffiti is art that is written, painted or drawn on a wall or other surface, usually without permission and within public view. 

Graffiti ranges from simple written words to elaborate wall paintings.

It has existed since ancient times, with examples dating back to ancient Egypt, ancient Greece and the Roman Empire.

Graffiti is a controversial subject.

In most countries, marking or painting property without permission is considered by property owners and civic authorities as defacement and vandalism, which it is a punishable crime, citing the use of graffiti by street gangs to mark territory or to serve as an indicator of gang-related activities.

Graffiti has become visualized as a growing urban “problem” for many cities in industrialized nations, spreading from the New York City subway system and Philadelphia in the early 1970s to the rest of the United States and Europe and other world regions.

Above: A former roof felt factory in Santalahti, Tampere, Finland. Most of the building, inside and outside, is covered in graffiti.

Graffiti is free speech, publicly expressed.

Graffiti is a protest against property, against ownership, against authority.

It is a defiance of punishment, of territory, of dominance.

It is visualized as a growing urban problem when it might be better defined as a challenge to the growing problems of urbanization.

Above: Graffiti on a wall in Čakovec, Croatia

The first known example of “modern style” graffiti survives in the ancient Greek city of Ephesus (in modern-day Türkiye).

Local guides say it is an advertisement for prostitution.

Above: Ephesus graffiti

Sometimes I wonder if modern style has become an advertisement for prostitution.

Men are quite capable of providing for themselves.

It should be impossible to bribe him.

He would, in fact, be above bribery altogether were it not for one basic need which has to be satisfied.

The need for physical contact with a woman’s body.

This need is so strong and its fulfillment gives men such intense pleasure that one suspects that it might be the sole reason for his voluntary enslavement to women.

His longing for this subjection may even be a facet of his sexual make-up.

The basis of any economy is a system of barter.

Therefore, someone demanding a service must be able to offer something of equal value in exchange for it, but as a man must fulfill his sexual desires and since he tends to want to possess exclusive rights of access to one woman, the prices have risen to an extortionate level.

This has made it possible for women to follow a system of exploitation.

No man remains exempt.

The concept of femininity is essentially sociological, not biological.

Even a homosexual is unlikely to escape without paying his dues.

The partner whose sexual drive is less developed quickly discovers the weak points of the other, whose drive is more intense, and manipulates him accordingly.

A man could, should, condition his sexual needs, but instead he allows them to be encouraged whenever possible – by women, since their interests are mainly directed towards a man’s libido.

Man is never dressed in such a way as to awaken sexual desire in the opposite sex, but it is very much the contrary with women.

The curves of breast and hip are exaggerated by tight-fitting clothes.

The length of leg, the shape of calf and ankle are enhanced.

Her lips and eyes beckon, moist with make-up.

Her hair gleams.

And to what purpose?

To stimulate desire for her.

Woman offers her wares like goods in a shop window, but one must pay for such alluring merchandise.

No money, no merchandise.

No wonder men think that is no greater happiness than to make enough money to take the merchandise home.

Reward a man with sex and he will be more obedient to a woman.

The whole world beckons with the promise of adventure.

Yet so strong is his sex drive that he gladly foregoes the world for a woman.

But a woman can never be a substitute for what he has lost.

Everything follows a strict system of supply and demand.

She will give him sex if he does whatever she demands.

The rules are rigid.

Surprise is small and scarcely significant.

Control his manhood, control the man.

Imagine a world where women were not merely walking advertisements for sex, not merely the graffiti of society.

Imagine a world where men were not obsessed with sex.

Man is a thinking creature.

He has a thirst for knowledge.

He wants to know what the world around him looks like and how it functions.

He draws conclusions from the data he encounters.

He makes something new out of the information achieved from his conclusions.

As a result of his exceptionally wide, multidimensional emotional scale, he not only registers the commonplace in fine gradations, but he creates and discovers new emotional values and makes them accessible to others through sensible descriptions or recreates them as an artist.

Above: Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

I am in no way suggesting that the above descriptions are true for all men nor am I suggesting that they cannot be true for women.

What I am saying is that potential is determined by one’s choices and that more people choose the path of least resistance – men’s subjugation to the societal standards set by women and women choosing comfort over complication.

Man’s curiosity is the most impressive quality of all.

Too many women take an interest only in subjects that have an immediate personal usefulness to her.

Man’s curiosity is something quite different.

His desire for knowledge has no personal implications, is purely objective and, in the long run, is more practical than a woman’s attitude.

Man’s curiosity is universal.

There is almost nothing that does not interest him.

Even subjects out of his province hold his interest.

Men not only observe the world around them, it is in their nature to make comparisons and to apply the knowledge they have gained themselves with the ultimate aim to transform this knowledge into something else, something new.

Men and woman have the exact same potential.

But they don’t make the same choices.

Practically all the inventions and discoveries in this world have been made by men.

Why is that?

Certainly where women have been suppressed, her opportunities to use her potential have been denied.

But in nations where women are more free, still many women choose to deny their potential and seek to be provided for rather than risk the difficulties of struggling along without a male companion.

With his many gifts man would appear to be ideally suited, both mentally and physically, to lead a life both fulfilled and free.

Instead he serves those who will not (women) or cannot (children) lead and calls this service noble.

Man who is capable of leading a life that is perfect as possible gladly gives that potential up to offer himself up to the female sex who cannot see man’s potential beyond how it serves her.

Man has come into the world to learn, to work and to father children.

His sons, in their turn, will learn to work and produce children.

Such has it ever been, such will it ever be.

If a young man gets married, starts a family and spends the rest of his life working at a soul-destroying job, he is held up as an example of virtue and responsibility.

The other type of man, living only for himself, working only for himself, sleeping where and when he wants, and facing women where he meets her, on equal terms and not as her servant, is rejected by society.

The free unshackled man has no place in its midst.

How depressing it is to see men, year after year, betraying all that they were born to.

New worlds could be discovered, worlds one hardly dares even to dream of could be opened by the minds, strength and intelligence of men.

Things to make life fuller and richer – their own life – and more worthwhile could be developed.

Instead, they forsake all these tremendous potentials and permit their minds and bodies to be shunted onto sidings to serve the animal existence and needs of entitled women.

With his mind, his strength and his imagination, all intended for the creation of new worlds, he opts instead for the preservation and improvement of the old.

We are so accustomed to men doing everything with women in view that anything else seems unthinkable.

Couldn’t composers create something apart from love songs?

Couldn’t writers give up their romantic novels and love poems and write literature?

Can painters only produce nudes and profiles of women, abstract or realistic?

Why can’t we have something new after all these millennia, something we have never seen before?

Imagine a world where men really used their intelligence and imagination instead of wasting it.

Imagine a world where men try living themselves.

Instead of making wars destined only to defend property, men should be travelling to worlds never dreamed of.

I am all for women’s equality, if only they would step up and do for themselves all that they demand from men.

But the prevailing attitude in the West is:

Why should they?

Policies for marriage, divorce, inheritance, motherhood, widowhood, old age and life ensure her increasing wealth.

They have complete psychological control over men and increasingly material control as well.

While men foolishly believe in their subjugation that they are responsible for the suppression of women, who, if they so choose could use their equal potential for the benefit of all humankind not just the individual woman.

There is this prevailing attitude that women are charming gracious creatures, fairy princesses, angels from another world, too good for men themselves and for their earthly existence.

While the reverse is true.

Men pointlessly wonder why they are not good enough for a woman upon whom he has set his sights, while never stopping to consider that she might not be good enough for him.

Besides beauty – beauty wiped away with a wet tissue, for, like men, most women are average – and booty, what else does she bring to a man’s life?

We truly want to believe that there is more.

Often we are sadly disappointed.

Tear off their masks and their tinkling bracelets, their frilly blouses and gold-leather sandals.

What is left?

Unused potential, deliberately dampened for material comfort.

Men as thinking creatures sense this disparity and young men express it.

Above: Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa

Throughout history, all the peoples of the Earth have practised some kind of religion.

It has been a central force in their lives.

The caves of Lascaux with their beautiful animal paintings – perhaps early graffiti? – are our earliest records of masculine ritual.

Above: Lascaux painting

In Aboriginal society, religious and associated cultural practices took up 70% of the time of mature men.

Even today, in spite of the divisions and bigotries that religion can foster, the forces of good – from social welfare to world peace – have a strong religious component.

The most potent and effective men and women are those with religious underpinnings to their life.

Why does religion matter?

Often we feel lost and confused and cannot figure our lives out.

At other times there is a feeling that is elusive but unmistakable:

That life is beautiful and that you are in the flow of things.

Ordinary ups and downs, pains and pleasures don’t matter when you feel you are on the right track.

Spirituality” simply means the direct experience of something special in life and living.

Religion – organized group activity and ritual – is an attempt to hold on to that feeling and make it last.

Religion is a container, which sometimes can capture the quicksilver of real spiritual experience and sometimes cannot.

People today have lost touch with the possibilities of ritual.

They think it has no use.

Group efforts are important ways to help each other stay focused on what matters, put a spiritual depth into our lives and pull our perspective back to the big picture and away from trivial concerns.

The brand of religion is not so important.

The true differences between religions are only differences of style and technique.

Any spiritual path will do.

We seek the connection beyond words with the holy, the ineffable, the unspeakable.

It is through giving into that deep desire that we feel our grief, our joy and our anger.

The longing for connection can take us out of our personal dramas and into our deepest feelings.

Then we feel alive and human, full of rich emotional experience.

Above: Albrecht Dürer’s Praying Hands

But the majority believe in nothing.

As a result, we are ill-equipped to answer or handle any of life’s deeper questions.

Modern man, for all his bravado, is very frail in the face of difficulties.

Suicide, cynicism, greed, addiction, wait close by.

The writing is on the wall.

We scream, silently, living lives of quiet desperation.

I view graffiti as potential poetry.

And a poet’s job is not to save the soul of a man, but to make it worth saving.

Artists, great and small, deserve acclaim, because they show us the world in a way that is fresh, appreciative and alive.

The opposite of art is habit.

Much of life is ruined for us by a blanket or shroud of familiarity that descends between us and everything that matters.

Habit dulls our senses and stops us appreciating everything, from the beauty of a sunset to our work and our friends.

Above: Sunset, Miami, Florida

Children don’t suffer from habit, which is why they get excited by some very key but simple things, like puddles, jumping on the bed, sand, and fresh bread.

But we adults get spoiled about everything, which is why we seek ever more powerful stimulants (like fame and love).

The trick is to recover the powers of appreciation of a child in adulthood to strip the veil of habit and therefore to start to appreciate daily life with a new sensitivity.

This is what one group in the population does all the time:

Artists.

Above: Street art, Cancun, Mexico

Artists are people who know how to strip habit away and return life to its glory, when they show us water lilies or services stations or buildings in a new light.

Above: Claude Monet, The Water Lilies – Setting Sun, 1926, Musée de l’Orangerie, Paris, France

Above: Edward Hopper, Gas, 1940, Museum of Modern Art, New York City, New York, USA

Above: Street art, Budapest, Hungary

The goal is not that we should necessarily make art or be someone who hangs out in museums all the time.

Above: Vincent van Gogh (1853 – 1890), Self Portrait, 1889

Above: Pierce Brosnan (Thomas Crown), Scene from The Thomas Crown Affair (1999)

Above: Vincent van Gogh, Noon – rest after work, 1890

The idea is to get us to look at the world, our world, with some of the same generosity as an artist, which would mean taking pleasure in simple things, like water, the sky, or a shaft of light on a piece of paper.

To know how to bring out the charm and the value of the everyday, like reading in a train, driving at night, smelling flowers in springtime, and looking at the changing light of the sun on the sea.

To be filled with hope and gratitude.

Life is not necessarily dull and without excitement.

It is just that one forgets to look at it in the right way.

We forget what being alive, fully alive, actually feels like.

To appreciate life with greater intensity.

It is not life which is mediocre so much as the image of it we possess.

The reason why life may be judged to be trivial, although at certain moments it seems to us so beautiful, is that we form our judgment ordinarily not on the evidence of life itself, but in its quite different images which preserve nothing of life.

Therefore, we judge it disparagingly.

That is why artists, great and small, are so important.

Their work reminds us that life is truly beautiful, fascinating and complex.

And thereby they dispel our boredom and ingratitude.

Art brings the beauty and interest of the world back to life.

Your senses are reawakened, extolling you to learn to appreciate existence before it is too late.

Many men, if questioned, locate the purpose for their lives, not in a spiritual path, but in pursuing the wellbeing of their families.

They live for their family.

While it is socially appropriate and healthy to dedicate several decades of our lives to meeting our family’s needs and enjoying the rewards of this, it is, however, very easy to lose one’s sense of self at the same time.

There are two questions a man must ask himself:

Where am I going?

Who will go with me?

In that order of importance.

Get these questions in the wrong order and the result is pain.

Where am I going? is the critical question.

Where have I come from? might hold some of the answers.

We need to borrow the wisdom of our ancestors if we are to avoid being the generation that let the fires of survival go out.

Ancient man was an environmentalist who knew how to thrive in the natural world in a sustainable way.

Since the environment is now the biggest concern facing mankind today we clearly need all the help we can get.

Our ultimate job is to preserve life.

This can only be done well with a source of energy and direction.

Living a life that makes ecological sense is not just a technical challenge but involves an inner change of orientation.

The biologist who goes out to study the rainforest from an objective point of view comes back changed by the experience.

The nights under the massive forest canopy and the days peering into nature’s mysteries capture his soul.

He changes into a passionate and newly balanced man.

Perhaps the needs of our time will transform our existing religions to something more vibrant and purposeful by turning more to nature and wildness and less to dogma and intellectual head-scratching.

I am attracted to nature by the wildness in my own nature.

I do not claim to be religious at all, yet the wilderness and the ocean are my spiritual homes.

In a city it is difficult for me to believe in God.

In nature it is impossible for me not to believe in God.

The thirst for wildness is in us all every day.

It is natural to love nature.

The more artificial life gets, the more we need to redress the imbalance.

Nature is happiness.

The closer man gets to inner and outer wildness, the better his life becomes.

I believe graffiti is the urban attempt to express that inner wildness.

Above: Graffiti, Kom Ombo Temple, Egypt

Within each man is a Wild Man.

He is both a being that is in men and yet also has independent life.

He both represents – and teaches us – our own brilliance, bounty, wildness, greatness and spontaneity.

The Wild Man teaches us that we don’t have to pretend to be good, but that we have power and integrity latent inside us.

If we trust it.

Abandoning yourself to wildness turns out to be the most harmonious and generative thing you can do.

Fans of Taoism and Lao Tzu will feel right at home here.

Above: The Chinese character for “Tao” – signifying way, path, route, road or, sometimes more loosely, doctrine

Above: Laotzu (4th century BCE) riding an ox through a pass.

It is said that with the fall of the Chou dynasty, Laotzu decided to travel west through the Han Valley Pass.

The Pass Commissioner, Yin-hsi, noticed a trail of vapor emanating from the east, deducing that a sage must be approaching.

Not long after, Laotzu riding his ox indeed appeared and, at the request of Yin-hsi, wrote down his famous Tao-te ching, leaving afterwards.

This story thus became associated with auspiciousness.

When we are good, we are OK.

But when we are “wild“, we are geniuses.

Any man who makes or build things, who creates a garden, who plays a jazz instrument, who has ever been a lover, knows that you are better when you “let go” and follow your impulses.

Above:  Albert Gleizes, Composition for Jazz

Natural rhythms within us take over and bring out our real talents.

Our love of trees, the wilderness, waves and water, animals, growing things, children and women, all stem from our wild nature.

All masculine confidence, of the inner kind, arises in the domain of the Wild Man.

Jesus, Mohammed and Buddha were well at ease with the Wild Man – spending time in the wilderness, using nature as their place of prayer and reflection.

All were unpredictable and nonconformist with the established order of their times, yet at the same time disciplined and true to their inner voices.

Isn’t graffiti unpredictable and nonconformist and yet is truth in its undisciplined expression?

Above: Street art, Tel Aviv, Israel

Wild does not mean savage.

Those who spray paint upon property are not necessarily a danger to themselves or others beyond the radical transformation of an urban landscape.

The savage does great damage to soil, earth, humankind and himself.

The Wild Man examines himself and probes that which has wounded him much in the manner of a Zen priest, a shaman or a woodsman.

Graffiti is freedom of expression without remorse or regret, without permission or apology.

Above: Graffiti in Yogyakarta, Indonesia

Stone and steel, plaster and plastic are far from our original nature.

Free expression upon them is to expose the world to that original nature.

Perhaps we should not associate the divine with virgin mothers and blissful Beatitudes but rather we should see the spark of the spiritual in the dance of the mad, in the smile of the fanged, in the breathlessness of submersion, covered in the hair of the untamed.

The Wild Man lives within our hearts and minds and calls to us.

This Man is not a savage, not an uncontrollable killer nor evil oppressor.

He is primordial but not barbaric, aboriginal but not vicious.

He represents what is best in the spirit of manhood.

Indomitable, invincible and wild, ready to defend and compete and protect, his instincts and perceptions are critical to the survival of the human race.

The Wild Man needs room to breathe and live and express himself.

Lose the Wild Man, lose male identity.

We need to accept that there is darkness that needs expression, that must dissent.

We emasculate and feminise ourselves to gain female approval and then are stunned that the female rejects the changes she demanded and craves the Wild Man we sacrificed in her name.

We cannot all wander away into the wilderness but we can nevertheless discover the wild side of the urban environments wherein we find ourselves.

Sometimes we need to see the city the way a country stranger might, to feel the lure of the bright lights, the spell of the big time.

Every building, every storefront opens onto a different world, compressing all the variety of human life into a jumble of possibilities made all the richer by the conjunctions and contradictions.

Just as a bookshelf can jam together Japanese poetry, Mexican history and Russian novels, so do the buildings of any cosmopolitan community.

To the clear-eyed and the open-minded even the most ordinary things can strike you with wonder.

The people on the street offer a thousand glances of lives similarly and utterly unlike your own.

Cities have always offered anonymity, variety and conjunction, much like the graffiti that graces its edifices.

A city always contains more than anyone can ever know.

A great city always makes the unknown and the possible spur the imagination.

Graffiti is the expression of that imagination.

Above: Street art in Thrissur, Kerala, India

A city is a place of unmediated encounters.

The suburbs, by comparison, are scrupulously controlled and segregated, designed for the noninteraction of motorists shuttling between private places rather than the interactions of pedestrians in public ones.

Urban density, beautiful buildings with cafés and bars everywhere, suggest different priorities for time and space, a competition fo attention by artists, poets, social and political radicals making lives about other things than commuting and spending.

The marvel of cities is in its coincidences, the struggles of many kinds of people, poetry given away to strangers under the open neon sky.

The history of the city is a history of freedom and of the definition of pleasure.

Urban walking is a stroll through the shadows, a solicitation of the senses, cruising through the crowd, promenades among the people, seduction by the shops, a rush of rage and righteousness in a riot, the passion of the protest, the sensuality of skulking, the lazy luxury of loitering, the palatable presence of a high and moral tone strangely absent.

In the city, biology is reduced to the human and a few stray species, but the range of activities, of possibilities, is limitless.

The rural walker looks at the general landscape.

The urban walker sees the specifics, looks for particulars, for opportunities.

The city resembles primordial life more than the country, in a less charming way.

The peril of human predators keeps city dwellers in a state of heightened alertness, of strengthened awareness.

Streets are the place left over between buildings.

A house alone is an island surrounded by a sea of open space, but as more and more buildings arise the sea becomes rivers, canals and streams of concrete running between the masses of skyscrapers.

Public space is merely the void between workplaces, shops and dwellings.

Walking the streets is the beginning of citizenship.

Graffiti is an expression of that citizenship.

Walking a city the citizen knows his place and truly inhabits his corner of humanity.

Walking the streets links up reading the map with living one’s life, the personal microcosm with the public macrocosm, a sense of the maze that surrounds us.

Graffiti is a signpost, a mile marker, of place and thought, of harsh reality and artistic expression.

Above: Street art, Århus, Denmark

Too few walk the streets for pleasure.

Pleasure is found in serendipity and the city is a plethora of possibilities and opportunities for serendipity.

Graffiti suggests that the profane can be profound, that the private thought can be publicly expressed, that the anonymous can have a voice synonymous with the common community.

It never occurs to us that streets can be oases rather than deserts.

Above: Street art, Buenos Aires, Argentina

One of the reasons I remain a fan of Charles Dickens is that he was a fan of urban walking and his writing thoroughly explored a city as much as his feet wandered its streets.

Dickens is the great poet of London life and his novels are as much a drama of place as they are of people.

People and places become one another.

Characters are identified as an atmosphere or a principle.

A place takes on a full-fledged personality.

His novels are full of detectives and police inspectors, of criminals who stalk, lovers who seek, and damned souls who flee.

The city is a tangle through which all the characters wander in a colossal game of hide-and-seek.

Only a vast city can allow intricate plots so full of crossed paths and overlapping lives.

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

Under the pattering rain the homeless walk and walk and walk, seeing nothing but the interminable tangle of streets.

Here and there, the police patrol.

Fear peers out of darkened doorways.

The wild moon and clouds are as restless as an uneasy conscience in a tumbled bed.

The shadow of the immense oppresses.

And yet the lonely nocturnal streets can also be comforting, as are the graveyards and shy neighbourhoods abandoned by society who have left the city for creature comforts elsewhere.

We bask in solitude.

Darkness punctuated by night skies punctured by distant stars.

In the country, solitude is geographical.

In the city, it is psychological, a world made up of strangers, strangers surrounded by strangers.

Streets silently bearing one’s secrets and imaginings of the secrets of others.

The starkest of luxuries, uncharted identity with its illimitable possibilities is one of the distinctive qualities of urban living.

An emancipation from family and communal expectation.

An experiment with subculture and identity.

It is an observer’s state.

Cool, withdrawn, senses sharpened, melancholic, alienation and introspection.

The streets are an outlaw romanticism, toughened sensibilities, wrapped in an isolation from which fierce fire burns brightly where whispers break the musing silence.

Can the neon of Miami ever emulate the alley lanterns of London?

Perhaps not.

And yet….

Here too the streets sing of celebration by day, seduction by night.

Above: Miami, Florida

G.K. Chesterton wrote:

Few of us understand the street.

Even when we step into it, we step into it doubtfully, as into a house or room of strangers.

Few of us see through the shining riddle of the street, the strange folk that belong to the street only – the whore and the wastrel, the merchant and the nomad, all who have generation after generation kept their ancient secrets in the full blaze of the sun.

Of the street at night many of us know less.

The street at night is a great house locked up.

Above: Gilbert Keith Chesterton (1874 – 1936)

Located near a mosaic and stone walkway, the Ephesus graffiti shows a handprint that vaguely resembles a heart, along with a footprint, a number, and a carved image of a woman’s head.

Above: Library of Celsus, Ephesus, Turkey

The ancient Romans carved graffiti on walls and monuments, examples of which also survive in Egypt.

Graffiti in the classical world had different connotations than they carry in today’s society concerning content.

Ancient graffiti displayed phrases of love declarations, political rhetoric, and simple words of thought, compared to today’s popular messages of social and political ideals.

The eruption of Vesuvius preserved graffiti in Pompeii, which includes Latin curses, magic spells, declarations of love, insults, alphabets, political slogans, and famous literary quotes, providing insight into ancient Roman street life.

One inscription gives the address of a woman named Novellia Primigenia of Nuceria, a prostitute, apparently of great beauty, whose services were much in demand.

Another shows a phallus accompanied by the text, mansueta tene (“handle with care“).

The heart of a man should have been displayed in its stead.

Disappointed love also found its way onto walls in antiquity:

Whoever loves, go to hell.

I want to break Venus’s ribs with a club and deform her hips.

If she can break my tender heart, why can’t I hit her over the head?

Above: Pompeii graffiti

Excellent question.

We are taught how to respect women and yet women are so often badly behaved.

Are they worthy of respect if they do not act in a manner that merits respect?

Ancient tourists visiting the 5th-century citadel at Sigiriya in Sri Lanka scribbled over 1,800 individual graffiti there between the 6th and 18th centuries.

Etched on the surface of the Mirror Wall, they contain pieces of prose, poetry, and commentary.

The majority of these visitors appear to have been from the elite of society: royalty, officials, professions, and clergy.

There were also soldiers, archers, and even some metalworkers.

The topics range from love to satire, curses, wit, and lament.

Many demonstrate a very high level of literacy and a deep appreciation of art and poetry.

Most of the graffiti refer to the frescoes of semi-nude females found there.

One reads:

Wet with cool dew drops
fragrant with perfume from the flowers
came the gentle breeze
jasmine and water lily
dance in the spring sunshine
side-long glances
of the golden-hued ladies
stab into my thoughts
heaven itself cannot take my mind
as it has been captivated by one lass
among the five hundred I have seen here.

Above: Sigiriya Rock, Sri Lanka

Above: Artwork, Sigiriya Rock, Sri Lanka

Above: Graffiti on the Mirror Wall, Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Among the ancient political graffiti examples were Arab satirist poems.

Yazid al-Himyari, an Umayyad Arab and Persian poet, was mostly known for writing political poetry on the walls between Sajistan and Basra, manifesting a strong hatred towards the Umayyad regime and its rulers.

People used to read and circulate them very widely.

Perhaps this is what those nations ruled by the rigorous need to do:

Dissent through poetry, writing on the wall, art upon the architecture, the music of musing.

Above: Screenshot, Video game Alpha Centauri

Historic forms of graffiti have helped gain understanding into the lifestyles and languages of past cultures.

Errors in spelling and grammar in these graffiti offer insight into the degree of literacy in Roman times and provide clues on the pronunciation of spoken Latin – evidence of the ability to read and write at levels of society where literacy might not be expected.

At Pompeii we find graffiti left by both foreman and workers.

Above: View of Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius, Italy

The brothel contains more than 120 pieces of graffiti, some of which were the work of the prostitutes and some the work of their clients.

The gladiatorial academy was scrawled with graffiti left by the gladiator Celadus Crescens (“Celadus the Thracian makes the girls sigh.“)

Another piece from Pompeii, written on a tavern wall about the owner of the establishment and his questionable wine:

Landlord, may your lies malign
Bring destruction on your head!
You yourself drink unmixed wine,
Water do you sell to your guests instead.

Above: Pompeii, Italy

Above: Inscription in Pompeii lamenting a frustrated love:

Whoever loves, let him flourish, let him perish who knows not love, let him perish twice over whoever forbids love.”

It was not only the Greeks and Romans who produced graffiti:

The Maya site of Tikal in Guatemala contains examples of ancient Maya graffiti. 

Above: Tikal, Guatemala

Viking graffiti survives in Rome and at Newgrange Mound in Ireland.

Above: Newgrange Mound, Ireland

A Varangian scratched his name (Halvdan) in runes on a banister in the Hagia Sophia at Constantinople (Istanbul).

Above: Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

These early forms of graffiti have contributed to the understanding of lifestyles and languages of past cultures.

Graffiti, known as Tacherons, were frequently scratched on Romanesque Scandinavian church walls.

When Renaissance artists (such as Pinturicchio, Raphael, Michelangelo, Ghirlandaio, or Filippino Lippi) descended into the ruins of Nero’s Domus Aurea, they carved or painted their names and returned to initiate the grottesche style of decoration.

Above: Bernardino di Betto (aka Pinturicchio) (1454 – 1513)

Above: Raffaello Sanzio (aka Raphael) (1483 – 1520)

Above: Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni (aka Michelangelo) (1475 – 1564)

Above: Domenico di Tommaso Curradi di Doffo Bigordi (aka Ghirlandaio) (1448 – 1494)

Above: Filippino Lippi (1457 – 1504)

There are also examples of graffiti occurring in American history, such as Independence Rock, a national landmark along the Oregon Trail.

Later, French soldiers carved their names on monuments during the Napoleonic campaign of Egypt in the 1790s. 

Above: Battle of the Pyramids, 21 July 1798

Above: Napoleon Bonaparte (1769 – 1821)

Lord Byron’s survives on one of the columns of the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion in Attica, Greece.

Above: George Gordon Byron (1788 – 1824)

Above: Cape Sounion, Greece

Contemporary graffiti style has been heavily influenced by hip hop culture and the myriad international styles derived from Philadelphia and New York City subway graffiti.

However, there are many other traditions of notable graffiti in the 20th century.

Graffiti have long appeared on building walls, in latrines, railroad boxcars, subways and bridges.

Above: Street art, Memphis, Tennessee, USA

Above: Graffiti, Amsterdam, Netherlands

The oldest known example of modern graffiti are the “monikers” found on boxcars created by hobos and rail workers since the late 1800s.

The Bozo Texino monikers were documented by filmmaker Bill Daniel in his 2005 film, Who is Bozo Texino?.

Some graffiti have their own poignancy.

In World War II, an inscription on a wall at the fortress of Verdun was seen as an illustration of the US response twice in a generation to the wrongs of the Old World:

Austin White – Chicago, Ill – 1918
Austin White – Chicago, Ill – 1945
This is the last time I want to write my name here.

Above: Verdun, France

During World War II and for decades after, the phrase “Kilroy was here” with an accompanying illustration was widespread throughout the world, due to its use by American troops and ultimately filtering into American popular culture.

Shortly after the death of Charlie Parker (1920 – 1955) (nicknamed “Yardbird” or “Bird“), graffiti began appearing around New York with the words “Bird Lives“.

The student protests and general strike of May 1968 saw Paris bedecked in revolutionary, anarchistic, and situationist slogans such as L’ennui est contre-révolutionnaire (“Boredom is counterrevolutionary“) expressed in painted graffiti, poster art, and stencil art.

At the time in the US, other political phrases (such as “Free Huey” about Black Panther Huey Newton) became briefly popular as graffiti in limited areas, only to be forgotten.

Above: Huey Newton (1942 – 1989)

A popular graffito of the early 1970s was “Dick Nixon Before He Dicks You“, reflecting the hostility of the youth culture to that US president.

Above: Richard Nixon (1913 – 1994) (US President: 1969 – 1974)

Rock and roll graffiti is a significant subgenre.

A famous graffito of the 20th century was the inscription in London reading “Clapton is God” in reference to the guitarist Eric Clapton.

Creating the cult of the guitar hero, the phrase was spray-painted by an admirer on a wall in an Islington, north London in the autumn of 1967.

The graffito was captured in a photograph, in which a dog is urinating on the wall.

Above: Eric Clapton

Graffiti also became associated with the anti-establishment punk rock movement beginning in the 1970s.

Bands (such as Black Flag and Crass) and their followers widely stenciled their names and logos.

Many punk night clubs, squats and hangouts are famous for their graffiti.

The Anti-Social Behaviour Act 2003 became Britain’s latest anti-graffiti legislation.

In August 2004, the Keep Britain Tidy campaign issued a press release calling for zero tolerance of graffiti and supporting proposals such as issuing “on the spot” fines to graffiti offenders and banning the sale of aerosol paint to anyone under the age of 16.

The press release also condemned the use of graffiti images in advertising and in music videos, arguing that real-world experience of graffiti stood far removed from its often-portrayed “cool” or “edgy‘” image.

To back the campaign, 123 Members of Parliament (MPs) (including then Prime Minister Tony Blair), signed a charter which stated:

Graffiti is not art, it’s crime.

On behalf of my constituents, I will do all I can to rid our community of this problem.

Above: Tony Blair (British Prime Minister: 1997 – 2007)

In the UK, city councils have the power to take action against the owner of any property that has been defaced under the Anti-Social Behaviour Act 2003 (as amended by the Clean Neighbourhoods and Environment Act 2005) or, in certain cases, the Highways Act.

This is often used against owners of property that are complacent in allowing protective boards to be defaced so long as the property is not damaged.

In July 2008, a conspiracy charge was used to convict graffitists for the first time.

After a three-month police surveillance operation, nine members of the DPM crew were convicted of conspiracy to commit criminal damage costing at least £1 million.

Five of them received prison sentences, ranging from eighteen months to two years.

The unprecedented scale of the investigation and the severity of the sentences rekindled public debate over whether graffiti should be considered art or crime.

Some councils, like those of Stroud and Lörrach (Germany), provide approved areas in the town where graffitists can showcase their talents, including underpasses, car parks, and walls that might otherwise prove a target for the “spray and run“.

Above: Stroud, Gloucestershire, England

Above: Street art, Stroud

Above: Lörrach, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Street art, Lörrach

In Europe, community cleaning squads have responded to graffiti, in some cases with reckless abandon, as when in 1992 in France a local Scout group, attempting to remove modern graffiti, damaged two prehistoric paintings of bison in the Cave of Mayriere Supérieure, near the French village of Bruniquel in Tarn-et-Garonne, earning them the 1992 Ig Nobel Prize in archaeology.

(The Ig Nobel Prize is a satiric prize awarded annually since 1991 to celebrate ten unusual or trivial achievements in scientific research.

Its aim is to “honour achievements that first make people laugh, and then make them think.”

The name of the award is a pun on the Nobel Prize, which it parodies, and on the word ignoble (“not noble“).

Organized by the scientific humor magazine, Annals of Improbable Research (AIR), the Ig Nobel Prizes are presented by Nobel laureates in a ceremony at the Sanders Theater, Harvard University, followed by the winners’ public lectures at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT).)

Above: Cave of Mayrières supérieure, Bruniquel, Tam-et-Garonne department, France

Above: rue Principale, Bruniquel, Tam-et-Garonne department, France

In September 2006, the European Parliament directed the European Commission to create urban environment policies to prevent and eliminate dirt, litter, graffiti, animal excrement, and excessive noise from domestic and vehicular music systems in European cities, along with other concerns over urban life.

In Budapest, Hungary, both a city-backed movement called I Love Budapest and a special police division tackle the problem, including the provision of approved areas.

Above: Budapest, Hungary

Style Wars depicted not only famous graffitists (such as Skeme, Dondi, MinOne, and ZEPHYR), but also reinforced graffiti’s role within New York’s emerging hip-hop culture by incorporating famous early break-dancing groups (such as Rock Steady Crew) into the film and featuring rap in the soundtrack.

Above: Graffiti artist Skeme

Above: Graffiti artist Dondi

Above: Graffiti artist Min One

Above: Graffiti artist Zephyr

Above: Rock Steady Crew

Although many officers of the New York City Police Department found this film to be controversial, Style Wars is still recognized as the most prolific film representation of what was going on within the young hip hop culture of the early 1980s.

Fab 5 Freddy and Futura 2000 took hip hop graffiti to Paris and London as part of the New York City Rap Tour in 1983.

Above: Graffiti artist Fab 5 Freddy

Above: Graffiti artist Futura 2000

This period also saw the emergence of the new stencil graffiti genre.

Some of the first examples were created in 1981 by graffitists Blek le Rat in Paris, in 1982 by Jef Aerosol in Tours (France). 

Above: Graffiti artist Blek le Rat

Above: Graffiti artist Jef Aerosol

By 1985, stencils had appeared in other cities including New York City, Sydney, and Melbourne, where they were documented by American photographer Charles Gatewood and Australian photographer Rennie Ellis.

Above: Street art, New York City, New York, USA

Above: Graffiti, Sydney, Australia

In an effort to reduce vandalism, many cities in Australia have designated walls or areas exclusively for use by graffitists.

One early example is the “Graffiti Tunnel” located at the Camperdown Campus of the University of Sydney, which is available for use by any student at the university to tag, advertise, poster, and create “art“.

Advocates of this idea suggest that this discourages petty vandalism yet encourages artists to take their time and produce great art, without worry of being caught or arrested for vandalism or trespassing.

Above: Graffiti Tunnel, Sydney, Australia

Others disagree with this approach, arguing that the presence of legal graffiti walls does not demonstrably reduce illegal graffiti elsewhere.

Some local government areas throughout Australia have introduced “anti-graffiti squads“, who clean graffiti in the area, and such crews as BCW (Buffers Can’t Win) have taken steps to keep one step ahead of local graffiti cleaners.

Many state governments have banned the sale or possession of spray paint to those under the age of 18 (age of majority).

However, a number of local governments in Victoria have taken steps to recognize the cultural heritage value of some examples of graffiti, such as prominent political graffiti.

Tough new graffiti laws have been introduced in Australia with fines of up to A$26,000 and two years in prison.

Above: Street art, Sydney, Australia

Melbourne is a prominent graffiti city of Australia with many of its lanes being tourist attractions, such as Hosier Lane in particular, a popular destination for photographers, wedding photography, and backdrops for corporate print advertising.

The Lonely Planet travel guide cites this Melbourne street as a major attraction.

Above: Hosier Lane, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

All forms of graffiti, including sticker art, poster, stencil art, and wheat pasting, can be found in many places throughout the city.

Prominent street art precincts include Fitzroy, Collingwood, Northcote, Brunswick, St. Kilda and the CBD, where stencil and sticker art is prominent.

Above: Street art, Fitzroy, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Collingwood, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Northcote, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Sunshine Lane, Brunswick, Melbourne

Above: Street art, St. Kilda, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Central Business District (CBD), Melbourne

As one moves farther away from the city, mostly along suburban train lines, graffiti tags become more prominent.

Many international artists such as Banksy have left their work in Melbourne and in early 2008 a perspex screen was installed to prevent a Banksy stencil art piece from being destroyed, it has survived since 2003 through the respect of local street artists avoiding posting over it, although it has recently had paint tipped over it.

Above: Banksy street art, Melbourne

In February 2008, Helen Clark, the New Zealand Prime Minister at that time, announced a government crackdown on tagging and other forms of graffiti vandalism, describing it as a destructive crime representing an invasion of public and private property.

New legislation subsequently adopted included a ban on the sale of paint spray cans to persons under 18 and increases in maximum fines for the offence from NZ$200 to NZ$2,000 or extended community service.

Above: Helen Clark (New Zealand Prime Minister: 1999 – 2008)

The issue of tagging become a widely debated one following an incident in Auckland during January 2008 in which a middle-aged property owner stabbed one of two teenage taggers to death and was subsequently convicted of manslaughter.

Tagging is the practice of someone spray-painting “their name, initial or logo onto a public surface“.

Above: Graffiti artist Pihema Cameron (1993 – 2008)

With the popularity and legitimization of graffiti has come a level of commercialization.

In 2001, computer giant IBM launched an advertising campaign in Chicago and San Francisco which involved people spray painting on sidewalks a peace symbol, a heart and a penguin, to represent “Peace, Love, and Linux“.

IBM paid Chicago and San Francisco collectively US$120,000 for punitive damages and clean-up costs.

Above: Logo of the International Business Machines Corporation

In 2005, a similar ad campaign was launched by Sony and executed by its advertising agency in New York, Chicago, Atlanta, Philadelphia, Los Angeles, and Miami, to market its handheld PSP gaming system.

In this campaign, taking notice of the legal problems of the IBM campaign, Sony paid building owners for the rights to paint on their buildings “a collection of dizzy-eyed urban kids playing with the PSP as if it were a skateboard, a paddle, or a rocking horse“.

Above: Sony PSP graffiti

Marc Ecko, an urban clothing designer, has been an advocate of graffiti as an art form during this period, stating that:

Graffiti is without question the most powerful art movement in recent history and has been a driving inspiration throughout my career.

Above: Marc Ecko

Graffiti have become a common stepping stone for many members of both the art and design communities in North America and abroad.

Within the US graffitists (such as Mike Giant, Pursue, Rime, Noah, and countless others) have made careers in skateboard, apparel, and shoe design for companies (such as DC Shoes, Adidas, Rebel8, Osiris, or Circa). 

Above: Graffiti artist Mike Giant

Above: Graffiti artist Pursue

Above: Graffiti artist Rime

Above: Logo of Rebel 8

Meanwhile, there are many others (such as DZINE, Daze, Blade, and El Mac) who have made the switch to being gallery artists, often not even using their initial medium, spray paint.

Above: Graffiti artist Dzine

Above: Graffiti artist Daze

Above: Graffiti artist Blade

Above: Graffiti artist El Mac

Brazil “boasts a unique and particularly rich, graffiti scene earning it an international reputation as the place to go for artistic inspiration.

Graffiti “flourishes in every conceivable space in Brazil’s cities“.

Artistic parallels “are often drawn between the energy of São Paulo today and 1970s New York“.

The “sprawling metropolis” of São Paulo has “become the new shrine to graffiti” .

Poverty and unemployment and the epic struggles and conditions of the country’s marginalised peoples” and “Brazil’s chronic poverty” are the main engines that “have fuelled a vibrant graffiti culture“.

In world terms, Brazil has “one of the most uneven distributions of income.

Laws and taxes change frequently.

Such factors contribute to a very fluid society, riven with those economic divisions and social tensions that underpin and feed the “folkloric vandalism and an urban sport for the disenfranchised“, that is South American graffiti art.

Above: Street art, Sao Paulo, Brazil

Prominent Brazilian graffitists include Os Gêmeos, Boleta, Nunca, Nina, Speto, Tikka, and Titi Freak. 

Their artistic success and involvement in commercial design ventures has highlighted divisions within the Brazilian graffiti community between adherents of the cruder transgressive form of pichação (Brazilian graffiti) and the more conventionally artistic values of the practitioners of grafite (graffiti).

Above: Identical twin graffiti artists Os Gemeos

Above: Graffiti artist Boleta

Above: Nunca mural, Sorocaba, Brazil

Above: Graffiti artist Nina

Above: Graffiti artist Speto

Above: Graffiti artist Tikka

Above: Titi Freak street art

Graffiti in the Middle East has emerged slowly, with taggers operating in Egypt, Lebanon, the Gulf countries like Bahrein or the United Arab Emirates (UAE), Israel and in Iran.

The major Iranian newspaper Hamshahri has published two articles on illegal writers in the city with photographic coverage of Iranian artist A1one’s works on Tehran walls.

Above: Logo of Iranian newspaper Hamshahri

Above: Graffiti artist A1one

Tokyo-based design magazine, PingMag, has interviewed A1one and featured photographs of his work. 

The Israeli West Bank barrier has become a site for graffiti, reminiscent in this sense of the Berlin Wall.

Above: West Bank Barrier graffiti art

Above: Berlin Wall (1961 – 1989) graffiti

Many graffitists in Israel come from other places around the globe, such as JUIF from Los Angeles and DEVIONE from London.

Above: Juif street art

Above: Graffiti artist Devione

The religious reference “נ נח נחמ נחמן מאומן” (“Na Nach Nachma Nachman Meuman“) is commonly seen in graffiti around Israel.

Graffiti has played an important role within the street art scene in the Middle East and North Africa (MENA), especially following the events of the Arab Spring of 2011 or the Sudanese Revolution (2018 – 2019).

Above: The MENA (Middle East and North Africa) or WANA (West Asia and North Africa) region according to 13 definitions:

  • 7 from United Nations agencies/programmes
  • 3 from agricultural organizations
  • 2 from demographics research institutes
  • 1 from historians.
  • Dark blue countries/territories are included in more than 66% of definitions
  • Sky blue in 33–66% of definitions
  • Light blue in fewer than 33% of definitions of the MENA/WANA region.  

Above: Images of the Arab Spring (2010 – 2012)

Clockwise from top left: 2011 Egyptian revolution (25 January – 11 February), Tunisian revolution (2010 – 2011), Yemeni uprising (2011 – 2012), 2011 Syrian uprising (15 March – 28 July)

Above: Sudanese protestors gather in front of government buildings in Khartoum to celebrate the final signing of the Draft Constitutional Declaration between military and civil representatives, 19 August 2019

Graffiti is a tool of expression in the context of conflict in the region, allowing people to raise their voices politically and socially.

Famous street artist Banksy has had an important effect in the street art scene in the MENA area, especially in Palestine where some of his works are located on the West Bank barrier and in Bethlehem.

Above: Banksy graffiti at the Israeli West Bank barrier in Bethlehem

There are also a large number of graffiti influences in Southeast Asian countries that mostly come from modern Western culture, such as Malaysia, where graffiti have long been a common sight in Malaysia’s capital city, Kuala Lumpur (KL).

Since 2010, the country has begun hosting a street festival to encourage all generations and people from all walks of life to enjoy and encourage Malaysian street culture.

Above: Graffiti art in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

In China, Mao Zedong in the 1920s used revolutionary slogans and paintings in public places to galvanise the country’s Communist Revolution.

Above: Mao Zedong (1893 – 1976)

Based on different national conditions, many people believe that China’s attitude towards Graffiti is fierce, but in fact, according to Lance Crayon in his film Spray Paint Beijing: Graffiti in the Capital of China,

Graffiti is generally accepted in Beijing, with artists not seeing much police interference.

Political and religiously sensitive graffiti, however, is not allowed.

In Hong Kong, Tsang Tsou Choi was known as the King of Kowloon for his calligraphy graffiti over many years, in which he claimed ownership of the area.

Now some of his work is preserved officially.

Above: Graffiti artist Tsang Tsou-choi (1921 – 2007)

In Taiwan, the government has made some concessions to graffitists.

Since 2005 they have been allowed to freely display their work along some sections of riverside retaining walls in designated “Graffiti Zones“. 

From 2007, Taipei’s department of cultural affairs also began permitting graffiti on fences around major public construction sites.

Department head Yong-ping Lee stated:

We will promote graffiti starting with the public sector, and then later in the private sector too.

It’s our goal to beautify the city with graffiti“.

The government later helped organize a graffiti contest in Ximending, a popular shopping district. graffitists caught working outside of these designated areas still face fines up to NT$6,000 under a Department of Environmental Protection regulation.

However, Taiwanese authorities can be relatively lenient, one veteran police officer stating anonymously,

Unless someone complains about vandalism, we won’t get involved.

We don’t go after it proactively.”

Above: Street art, Taipei, Taiwan

In 1993, after several expensive cars in Singapore were spray-painted, the police arrested a student from the Singapore American School, Michael P. Fay, questioned him, and subsequently charged him with vandalism.

Fay pleaded guilty to vandalizing a car in addition to stealing road signs.

Under the 1966 Vandalism Act of Singapore, originally passed to curb the spread of Communist graffiti in Singapore, the court sentenced him to four months in jail, a fine of S$3,500 (US$2,233), and a caning. 

Above: Michael P. Kay

The New York Times ran several editorials and op-eds that condemned the punishment and called on the American public to flood the Singaporean embassy with protests.

Although the Singapore government received many calls for clemency, Fay’s caning took place in Singapore on 5 May 1994.

Fay had originally received a sentence of six strokes of the cane, but the presiding President of Singapore, Ong Teng Cheong, agreed to reduce his caning sentence to four lashes.

Above: Ong Teng Cheong (Singapore President: 1936 – 2002)

In South Korea, Park Jung-soo was fined two million South Korean won by the Seoul Central District Court for spray-painting a rat on posters of the G-20 Summit a few days before the event in November 2011.

Park alleged that the initial in “G-20” sounds like the Korean word for “rat“, but Korean government prosecutors alleged that Park was making a derogatory statement about the president of South Korea, Lee Myung-bak, the host of the Summit.

Above: Member countries of the G20 (pink) / Countries represented through the membership of the European Union (purple) / Countries permanently invited (yellow)

Above: Lee Myung-bak (South Korean President: 2008 – 2014)

This case led to public outcry and debate on the lack of government tolerance and in support of freedom of expression.

The court ruled that the painting, “an ominous creature like a rat” amounts to “an organized criminal activity” and upheld the fine while denying the prosecution’s request for imprisonment for Park.

Above: Graffiti artist Park Jung-Soo

The modern-day graffitists can be found with an arsenal of various materials that allow for a successful production of a piece.

This includes such techniques as scribing.

However, spray paint in aerosol cans is the number one medium for graffiti.

From this commodity comes different styles, technique, and abilities to form master works of graffiti.

Spray paint can be found at hardware and art stores and comes in virtually every colour.

Stencil graffiti is created by cutting out shapes and designs in a stiff material (such as cardboard or subject folders) to form an overall design or image.

The stencil is then placed on the “canvas” gently and with quick, easy strokes of the aerosol can, the image begins to appear on the intended surface.

Above: Graffiti Tunnel, San Francisco, California, USA

Modern graffiti art often incorporates additional arts and technologies.

For example, Graffiti Research Lab has encouraged the use of projected images and magnetic light-emitting diodes (throwies) as new media for graffitists. 

Yarnbombing is another recent form of graffiti.

Yarnbombers occasionally target previous graffiti for modification, which had been avoided among the majority of graffitists.

Above: Graffiti, Zumaia, Spain

Tagging is the practice of someone spray-painting “their name, initial or logo onto a public surface“.

A number of recent examples of graffiti make use of hashtags.

Above: Graffiti, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

When graffiti artist Alan Ket was growing up in Brooklyn, he got good at improvisation.

Above: Alan Ket, Museum of Graffiti, Miami, Florida

He remembers:

By the time I grew up, all the spray cans were locked up in cages.

I used to use Ban Roll-On and take off the top, then I would steal erasers from the classroom and pull off the felt, then use the felt tip on the Roll-On.

I would go to the supermarket and get purple supermarket ink and fill it.

That eye for detail paid off.

Along with co-founder Allison Freidin, Ket oversees the Museum of Graffiti in its home next to Wynwood Walls.

Above: Alison Freidin

It is a fitting location for the Museum, which opened in late 2019.

It offers a fascinating look into the historical context that made the mural park one of Miami’s most popular attractions.

Its location is 5,000 square feet.

Its mission is to teach people about an art movement that is now fixed in our culture and commerce.

Friedin says:

So many people come here and are really focused on the narrative that the press and the government have been feeding them for so many years, that graffiti is gang-related, that graffiti artists are dangerous criminals.

A lot of folks come in with only having heard one side of the story.

The Museum of Graffiti provides that other very important half that is from marginalized artists who don’t have a platform other than the streets.

A trip through the Museum encompasses the early forms of tagging and introduces such innovators as Philadelphia’s Cornbread, who started creating street art in 1965 and famously tagged the Jackson 5’s plane and an elephant at the zoo.

Above: Graffiti artist Cornbread

Above: The Jackson 5 from left to right: Tito, Marlon, Michael (1958 – 2009), Jackie, and Jermaine Jackson

There is also a nod to the flamboyant Rammellzee, a visual artist, performance artist and hip-hop musician who recorded “Beat Box“, one of the most valued and collectible hip-hop records of all time.

Above: Artist Rammellzee

(Jean-Michel Baptiste designed the cover.)

The self-proclaimed birthplace of graffiti, New York City, figures prominently in the telling of this history.

There is a tribute to the New York subway trains once covered in graffiti (much to the dismay of vindictive transit authorities) and nods to entrepreneurial artists who found ways to monetize their work through album covers, merchandise like T-shirts and collectibles, skateboards and tattoos.

(For example, there is a replica of the Shirt King store from the Colosseum Mall in Queens and a mini tattoo parlor.)

Past and future collide in these rooms.

Pass a wall of the original spray paints used in early street art and find yourself in an Oculus headset for a virtual reality opportunity to let your inner artist flow.

One of the hardest things about putting the Museum together has been finding historical artifacts, Freidin says.

Too many materials were left moldering in basements or storage units.

Like they did when their children left comic books behind, overzealous parents threw away much of what might have been valuable.

Freidin says:

Because it was not treated as an art form until recently, the archives are very unstable.

We have lost important pieces of ephemera or antiques that tell the history of the culture, because there has been no preservation of that culture.

Freidin did manage to track down a couple of the New York subway turnstiles, still in their original red and yellow, for guests to walk through at the end of the tour.

The Museum won’t neglect its Wynwood roots, either.

Above: Museum of Graffiti, Miami, Florida

An exhibit of Puerto Rican artists opened in March 2022, paying homage to the neighbourhood’s original residents.

Above: Street art, San Jian, Puerto Rico

There are free drawing classes for kids on Sundays and graffiti classes for anyone who wants to learn how to use spray cans to draw characters.

But the story the Museum of Graffiti is telling is far from over.

Ket says:

There is no complete story.

It is a global story.

Every city, every region has its own story.

We are gathering all these stories to join them and give you an overview of what has happened.

It is still being discovered.”

Above: Street art, Budapest, Hungary

In the early 1980s, the first art galleries to show graffitists to the public were Fashion Moda in the Bronx, the Now Gallery and the Fun Gallery, both in the East Village, Manhattan.

Above: Fashion Moda, The Bronx, New York City, New York, USA

Above: The Now Gallery, East Village, Manhattan, New York City

Above: The Fun Gallery, East Village, Manhattan

A 2006 exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum displayed graffiti as an art form that began in New York’s outer boroughs and reached great heights in the early 1980s with the work of Crash, Lee, Daze, Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

Above: Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn, New York City

Above: Graffiti artist Crash

Above: Graffiti artist Lee

Above: Street art, Daze, Brooklyn

Above: Keith Haring (1958 – 1990)

Above: Keith Haring Mural, Collingwood, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Above: Jean-Michel Basquiat (1960 – 1988)

Above: Graffito of Jean-Michel Basquiat

The Brooklyn Museum displayed 22 works by New York graffitists, including Crash, Daze, and Lady Pink.

Above: Street art, Crash, Wynwood Walls, Miami, Florida

Above: Street art, Daze, Brooklyn

Above: Graffiti artist Lady Pink

In an article about the exhibition in the magazine Time Out, curator Charlotta Kotik said that she hoped the exhibition would cause viewers to rethink their assumptions about graffiti.

From the 1970s onwards, Burhan Dogancay photographed urban walls all over the world.

These he then archived for use as sources of inspiration for his painterly works.

The project today known as “Walls of the World” grew beyond even his own expectations and comprises about 30,000 individual images.

It spans a period of 40 years across five continents and 114 countries.

In 1982, photographs from this project comprised a one-man exhibition titled “Les murs murmurent, ils crient, ils chantent …” (The walls whisper, shout and sing …) at the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris.

Above: Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris, France

In Australia, art historians have judged some local graffiti of sufficient creative merit to rank them firmly within the arts. 

Oxford University Press’ art history text Australian Painting 1788–2000 concludes with a long discussion of graffiti’s key place within contemporary visual culture, including the work of several Australian practitioners.

Between March and April 2009, 150 artists exhibited 300 pieces of graffiti at the Grand Palais in Paris.

Above: Grand Palais, Paris, France

Theories on the use of graffiti by avant-garde artists have a history dating back at least to the Asger Jorn, who in 1962 painting declared in a graffiti-like gesture:

The avant-garde won’t give up.”

Above: Danish artist Asger Jorn (1914 – 1973)

Many contemporary analysts and even art critics have begun to see artistic value in some graffiti and to recognize it as a form of public art.

According to many art researchers, particularly in the Netherlands and in Los Angeles, that type of public art is, in fact an effective tool of social emancipation or, in the achievement of a political goal.

In times of conflict, such murals have offered a means of communication and self-expression for members of these socially, ethnically, or racially divided communities, and have proven themselves as effective tools in establishing dialog and thus, of addressing cleavages in the long run.

Above: Street art, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Above: Street art, Los Angeles, California, USA

The Berlin Wall was also extensively covered by graffiti reflecting social pressures relating to the oppressive Soviet rule over the German Democratic Republic (GDR) (East Germany).

Above: My God, Help me to survive this deadly love graffiti painting on the Berlin Wall (1961 – 1989) depicting Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev (1906 – 1982) kissing East German leader Erich Honecker (1912 – 1994)

Above: Berlin Wall – “Anyone who wants to keep the world as it is does not want it to remain.”

Many graffitists choose to protect their identities and remain anonymous or to hinder prosecution.

With the commercialization of graffiti (and hip hop in general), in most cases, even with legally painted “graffiti” art, graffitists tend to choose anonymity.

This may be attributed to various reasons or a combination of reasons.

Graffiti still remains the one of four hip hop elements that is not considered “performance art” despite the image of the “singing and dancing star” that sells hip hop culture to the mainstream.

Being a graphic form of art, it might also be said that many graffitists still fall in the category of the introverted archetypal artist.

Above: Banksy mural, Bethlehem, Israel

Banksy is one of the world’s most notorious and popular street artists who continues to remain faceless in today’s society.

Above: Slave labour, street art, Banksy, Wood Green, London, England

He is known for his political, anti-war stencil art mainly in Bristol, England, but his work may be seen anywhere from Los Angeles to Palestine.

Above: Street art, Banksy, Bristol, England

Above: Naked man, street art, Banksy, Park Street, Bristol

Above: The girl with the pierced eardrum, street art, Banksy, Bristol, England

Above: Banksy street art above bus shelter, Admiralty Road, Great Yarmouth, England

Above: Oscar Wilde (1854 – 1900) – Escaping prisoner, street art, Banksy, Reading, England

Above: Swinger, street art, Banksy, New Orleans, Louisiana, USA

Above: No Loitering, street art, Banksy, New Orleans – Building derelict since the Hurricane Katrina levee failure disaster of 2005

Above: Season’s Greetings, street art, Banksy, Port Talbot, Wales

Above: Children of War, street art, Banksy, Independence Square, Kyiv, Ukraine

Above: Street art, Banksy, bombed building, Irpin, Ukraine

Above: Steve Jobs (1955 – 2011) – The son of a migrant from Syria, street art, Banksy, Calais, France

Above: Rat race, street art, Banksy, 14th Street, Manhattan, New York City

Above: Parachuting rat, street art, Banksy, Melbourne, Australia

In the UK, Banksy is the most recognizable icon for this cultural artistic movement and keeps his identity a secret to avoid arrest.

Above: Devolved Parliament, Banksy

Much of Banksy’s artwork may be seen around the streets of London and surrounding suburbs, although he has painted pictures throughout the world, including the Middle East, where he has painted on Israel’s controversial West Bank barrier with satirical images of life on the other side.

Above: Street art, Banksy, Brick Lane, East End, London, England

Above: Charles Manson (1934 – 2017) – Hitchhiker to Anywhere, street art, Banksy, Archway, London, England

Above: Ozone’s Angel, street art, Banksy, London, England

Above: ATM attacking a girl, street art, Banksy, Rosebery Avenue, London, England

Above: Shop until you drop, street art, Banksy, Mayfair, London, England –

We can’t do anything to change the world until capitalism crumbles.

In the meantime we should all go shopping to console ourselves.

Above: Girl with balloon / There is always hope, street art, Banksy, South Bank, London, England

One depicted a hole in the wall with an idyllic beach, while another shows a mountain landscape on the other side.

A number of exhibitions also have taken place since 2000.

Recent works of art have fetched vast sums of money.

Banksy’s art is a prime example of the classic controversy:

Vandalism vs. art.

Above: Street art, Banksy, Bethlehem, Israel

Above: Civilian drone strike, charity work for Campaign against Arms Trade and Reprieve, Banksy

(Reprieve is a nonprofit organization of international lawyers and investigators whose stated goal is to “fight for the victims of extreme human rights abuses with legal action and public education“.

Their main focus is on the death penalty, indefinite detention without trial (such as in Guantanamo), extraordinary rendition (state-sponsored forcible abduction) and extrajudicial killing (the deliberate killing of a person without the lawful authority granted by a judicial proceeding). )

Art supporters endorse his work distributed in urban areas as pieces of art and some councils, such as Bristol and Islington, have officially protected them, while officials of other areas have deemed his work to be vandalism and have removed it.

Above: The Grin Reaper, Banksy

Above: Painting for saints / Game changer – NHS tribute, street art, Banksy, Southampton General Hospital, England

Pixnit is another artist who chose to keep her identity from the general public. 

Her work focuses on beauty and design aspects of graffiti as opposed to Banksy’s anti-government shock value.

Her paintings are often of flower designs above shops and stores in her local urban area of Cambridge, Massachusetts.

Some store owners endorse her work and encourage others to do similar work as well.

Above: Graffiti artist Pixnit

Graffiti artists may become offended if photographs of their art are published in a commercial context without their permission.

In March 2020, the Finnish graffiti artist Psyke expressed his displeasure at the newspaper Ilta-Sanomat publishing a photograph of a Peugeot 208 in an article about new cars, with his graffiti prominently shown on the background.

The artist claims he does not want his art being used in commercial context, not even if he were to receive compensation.

Above: Graffiti artist Psyke

Territorial graffiti marks urban neighborhoods with tags and logos to differentiate certain groups from others.

These images are meant to show outsiders a stern look at whose turf is whose.

The subject matter of gang-related graffiti consists of cryptic symbols and initials strictly fashioned with unique calligraphies.

Gang members use graffiti to designate membership throughout the gang, to differentiate rivals and associates and, most commonly, to mark borders which are both territorial and ideological.

Above: Gang symbol markings on public property, Millwood, Washington, USA

Many restrictions of civil gang injunctions are designed to help address and protect the physical environment and limit graffiti.

Provisions of gang injunctions include things such as:

  • restricting the possession of marker pens, spray paint cans, or other sharp objects capable of defacing private or public property
  • spray painting, or marking with marker pens, scratching, applying stickers, or otherwise applying graffiti on any public or private property, including, but not limited to the street, alley, residences, block walls, and fences, vehicles or any other real or personal property.

Some injunctions contain wording that restricts damaging or vandalizing both public and private property, including but not limited to any vehicle, light fixture, door, fence, wall, gate, window, building, street sign, utility box, telephone box, tree, or power pole.

Above: Asper Jorn graffiti, “It is forbidden to forbid.“, Paris, 1968

Graffiti has been used as a means of advertising both legally and illegally. 

Bronx-based TATS CRU has made a name for themselves doing legal advertising campaigns for companies, such as Coca-Cola, McDonald’s, Toyota and MTV.

Above: Graffiti artists Tats Cru

In the UK, Covent Garden’s Boxfresh used stencil images of a Zapatista revolutionary in the hopes that cross referencing would promote their store.

Above: Graffiti artist Boxfresh

Above: Street art, Boxfresh, Richmond, Virginia

Smirnoff hired artists to use reverse graffiti (the use of high pressure hoses to clean dirty surfaces to leave a clean image in the surrounding dirt) to increase awareness of their product.

Graffiti often has a reputation as part of a subculture that rebels against authority, although the considerations of the practitioners often diverge and can relate to a wide range of attitudes.

It can express a political practice and can form just one tool in an array of resistance techniques.

One early example includes the anarcho-punk band Crass, who conducted a campaign of stenciling anti-war, anarchist, feminist and anti-consumerist messages throughout the London Underground system during the late 1970s and early 1980s.

Above: Crass at the Cleatormoor Civic Hall, UK, 3 May 1984

Left to right: Pete Wright (bass), Steve Ignorant (vocals), N.A. Palmer (guitar).

In Amsterdam, graffiti was a major part of the punk scene.

The city was covered with names such as “De Zoot“, “Vendex“, and “Dr Rat“.

Above: Graffiti artist Vendex

Above: Graffiti artist Dr. Rat

To document the graffiti a punk magazine was started that was called Gallerie Anus.

So when hip hop came to Europe in the early 1980s there was already a vibrant graffiti culture.

Above: Hip hop musician Grandmaster Flash

The student protests and general strike of May 1968 saw Paris bedecked in revolutionary, anarchistic and situationist slogans, such as L’ennui est contre-révolutionnaire (“Boredom is counterrevolutionary“) and Lisez moins, vivez plus (“Read less, live more“).

While not exhaustive, the graffiti gave a sense of the ‘millenarian’ and rebellious spirit, tempered with a good deal of verbal wit, of the strikers.

Above: Paris, France, May 1968

The developments of graffiti art which took place in art galleries and colleges as well as “on the street” or “underground“, contributed to the resurfacing in the 1990s of a far more overtly politicized art form in the subvertising, culture jamming or tactical media movements.

These movements or styles tend to classify the artists by their relationship to their social and economic contexts, since, in most countries, graffiti art remains illegal in many forms except when using non-permanent paint.

Above: Graffiti on a wall in Čakovec, Croatia

Since the 1990s with the rise of Street Art, a growing number of artists are switching to non-permanent paints and non-traditional forms of painting.

Above: French Resistance hero Pierre Brossolette, Street art, 5th Arrondissement, Paris, France

Contemporary practitioners, accordingly, have varied and often conflicting practices.

Some individuals, such as Alexander Brener, have used the medium to politicize other art forms, and have used the prison sentences enforced on them as a means of further protest.

(Alexander Brener is a Russian performance “artist” and a self-described political activist.

Above: Alexander Davidovich Brener

Brener’s performances of note include defecating in front of a painting by Vincent van Gogh at the Alexander Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts in Moscow, having sex in front of the Monument to Alexander Pushkin in Rostov-on-Don, and vandalizing art works by other artists.

Above: Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts, Moscow, Russia

Above: Monument to Alexander Puskin, Rostov-on-Don, Russia

Above: Russian writer Alexander Pushkin (1799 – 1837)

He was jailed in 1997 for painting a green dollar sign on Kazimir Malevich’s painting Suprematisme

Above: Suprematism (1927), Kazimir Malevich

In the court case Brener said in his defence:

The cross is a symbol of suffering, the dollar sign a symbol of trade and merchandise.

On humanitarian grounds are the ideas of Jesus Christ of higher significance than those of the money.

What I did was not against the painting.

I view my act as a dialogue with Malevich.

I doubt Malevich would have felt the same.

Above: Kazimir Severinovich Malevich (1879 – 1935), Self-portrait (1910)

Giancarlo Politi, the editor of Flash Art, resolutely defended Brener from the pages of his magazine, stirring controversy and campaigning for his acquittal.

Brener was sentenced to five months in prison, where he wrote the essay Obossani Pistolet.

In the text he explains his beliefs and summarizes his actions.

In 2000, Brener disrupted the press conference of Manifesta 3 in Ljubljana by spraying slogans on the presentation screen and handing out leaflets stating:

Demolish neo-liberalist multicultural art system now!

Bodyguards came and dragged Brener out of the hall.

He was later arrested by Slovenian secret police in the streets.

Above: Images of Ljubljana, Slovenia

In 2003, Brener vandalized the work of Swiss-Italian artist Gianni Motti during the opening of Motti’s exhibition “Turnover” at Artra Gallery in Milan.

Above: Gianni Motti

Brener co-wrote a number of books together with Austrian artist and critic Barbara Schurz, including: 

Above: Barbara Schurz and Alexander Brenner

  • Bukaka spat Here

  • Tattoos auf Gefängnissen (Tattoos of Prisoners)

  • Anti Technologies of Resistance 
  • The Art of Destruction

Try as I may, I cannot respect Brener.)

The practices of anonymous groups and individuals also vary widely.

Practitioners by no means always agree with each other’s practices.

For example, the anti-capitalist art group the Space Hijackers did a piece in 2004 about the contradiction between the capitalistic elements of Banksy and his use of political imagery.

Above: The Space Hijackers

Berlin human rights activist Irmela Mensah-Schramm has received global media attention and numerous awards for her 35-year campaign of effacing neo-Nazi and other right-wing extremist graffiti throughout Germany, often by altering hate speech in humorous ways.

Above: Irmela Mensah-Schramm

In the Serbian capital, Belgrade, graffiti depicting a uniformed former general of the Serbian army and war criminal, convicted for war crimes and crimes against humanity, including genocide and ethnic cleansing in the Bosnian War, Ratko Mladic, appeared in a military salute alongside the words: 

General, thank your mother“. 

Above: Ratko Mladic mural, Belgrade, Serbia

Aleks Eror, Berlin-based journalist, explains how “veneration of historical and wartime figures” through street art is not a new phenomenon in the region of former Yugoslavia, and that “in most cases is firmly focused on the future, rather than retelling the past“.

Eror is not only an analyst, but he is pointing to danger of such an expressions for the region’s future.

Above: Aleks Eror

In a long expose on the subject of Bosnian genocide denial, at Balkan Diskurs magazine and multimedia platform website, Kristina Gadže and Taylor Whitsell referred to these experiences as a young generations’ “cultural heritage“, in which young are being exposed to celebration and affirmation of war-criminals as part of their “formal education” and “inheritance“.

There are numerous examples of genocide denial through celebration and affirmation of war criminals throughout the region of Western Balkans inhabited by Serbs using this form of artistic expression.

Several more of these graffiti are found in the Serbian capital, and many more across Serbia and Bosnian and Herzegovinian administrative entity, Republika Srpska, which is the ethnic Serbian majority enclave.

Critics point that Serbia as a state, is willing to defend the mural of convicted war criminal, and have no intention to react on cases of genocide denial, noting that Interior Minister of Serbia, Aleksandar Vulin decision to ban any gathering with an intent to remove the mural, with the deployment of riot police, sends the message of “tacit endorsement“.

Consequently, on 9 November 2021, Serbian heavy police in riot gear, with graffiti creators and their supporters, blocked the access to the mural to prevent human rights groups and other activists to paint over it and mark the International Day Against Fascism and Antisemitism in that way, and even arrested two civic activist for throwing eggs at the graffiti.

Above: Flag of Serbia

Graffiti may also be used as an offensive expression.

This form of graffiti may be difficult to identify, as it is mostly removed by the local authority (as councils which have adopted strategies of criminalization also strive to remove graffiti quickly). 

Therefore, existing racist graffiti is mostly more subtle and at first sight, not easily recognized as “racist“.

It can then be understood only if one knows the relevant “local code” (social, historical, political, temporal, and spatial), which is seen as heteroglot and thus a ‘unique set of conditions‘ in a cultural context.

A spatial code, for example, could be that there is a certain youth group in an area that is engaging heavily in racist activities.

So, for residents (knowing the local code), a graffiti containing only the name or abbreviation of this gang already is a racist expression, reminding the offended people of their gang activities.

Also graffiti is in most cases, the herald of more serious criminal activity to come.

A person who does not know these gang activities would not be able to recognize the meaning of this graffiti.

Also if a tag of this youth group or gang is placed on a building occupied by asylum seekers, for example, its racist character is even stronger.

By making the graffiti less explicit (as adapted to social and legal constraints), these drawings are less likely to be removed, but do not lose their threatening and offensive character.

Above: Graffiti, George Floyd protest, Minneapolis, Minnesota, June 2020

Elsewhere, activists in Russia have used painted caricatures of local officials with their mouths as potholes, to show their anger about the poor state of the roads.

In Manchester, England, a graffitist painted obscene images around potholes, which often resulted in their being repaired within 48 hours.

Spray paint has many negative environmental effects.

The paint contains toxic chemicals, and the can uses volatile hydrocarbon gases to spray the paint onto a surface.

Volatile organic compound (VOC) leads to ground level ozone formation and most of graffiti related emissions are VOCs.

A 2010 paper estimates 4,862 tons of VOCs were released in the United States in activities related to graffiti.

Graffiti databases have increased in the past decade because they allow vandalism incidents to be fully documented against an offender and help the police and prosecution charge and prosecute offenders for multiple counts of vandalism.

They also provide law enforcement the ability to rapidly search for an offender’s moniker or tag in a simple, effective, and comprehensive way.

These systems can also help track costs of damage to city to help allocate an anti-graffiti budget.

The theory is that when an offender is caught putting up graffiti, they are not just charged with one count of vandalism.

They can be held accountable for all the other damage for which they are responsible.

This has two main benefits for law enforcement.

One, it sends a signal to the offenders that their vandalism is being tracked.

Two, a city can seek restitution from offenders for all the damage that they have committed, not merely a single incident.

These systems give law enforcement personnel real-time, street-level intelligence that allows them not only to focus on the worst graffiti offenders and their damage, but also to monitor potential gang violence that is associated with the graffiti.

To help address many of these issues, many local jurisdictions have set up graffiti abatement hotlines, where citizens can call in and report vandalism and have it removed.

San Diego’s hotline receives more than 5,000 calls per year, in addition to reporting the graffiti, callers can learn more about prevention.

Above: San Diego, California

One of the complaints about these hotlines is the response time.

There is often a lag time between a property owner calling about the graffiti and its removal.

The length of delay should be a consideration for any jurisdiction planning on operating a hotline.

Local jurisdictions must convince the callers that their complaint of vandalism will be a priority and cleaned off right away.

If the jurisdiction does not have the resources to respond to complaints in a timely manner, the value of the hotline diminishes.

Crews must be able to respond to individual service calls made to the graffiti hotline as well as focus on cleanup near schools, parks, and major intersections and transit routes to have the biggest impact.

Some cities offer a reward for information leading to the arrest and prosecution of suspects for tagging or graffiti related vandalism.

The amount of the reward is based on the information provided, and the action taken.

When police obtain search warrants in connection with a vandalism investigation, they are often seeking judicial approval to look for items such as:

  • cans of spray paint and nozzles from other kinds of aerosol sprays
  • etching tools, or other sharp or pointed objects, which could be used to etch or scratch glass and other hard surfaces
  • permanent marking pens, markers, or paint sticks
  • evidence of membership or affiliation with any gang or tagging crew
  • paraphernalia including any reference to “(tagger’s name)”
  • any drawings, writing, objects, or graffiti depicting taggers’ names, initials, logos, monikers, slogans, or any mention of tagging crew membership
  • any newspaper clippings relating to graffiti crime

I am all for the notion of free expression.

I cannot say I favour the notion of youth gangs, but I do ponder why they exist.

Poverty rates, crime rates and accessibility to weapons are factors.

The causes of street fighting are varied.

Originally, street fighting was a way of defending oneself.

In the Stone Age, fights were mostly aimed for survival purposes – protected territory, secured resources and protected families.

Humans fight to achieve status and belonging.

They do so because, in evolutionary terms, these are the surest routes to survival and increased reproduction.

As humans evolve, new conflicts arise in order to gratify more sophisticated wants.

The purposes of street fighting shifted to solve interpersonal conflicts.

These conflicts could be stratification, misunderstanding, hate speech or even retaliation.

For instance, in areas that are not under policy surveillance and criminally dominated, violence is believed to be the substantiation of superior reputation and pride. 

In other words, people take part in street fights to obtain dominance because of social status given to the ruler.

For another instance, men showed off their value in the sense that opponents’ self-esteem are on the verge of being destroyed from their insults, humiliation and vilification to which violence is the go-to resort.

Additionally, some fights are driven by alcohol.

Alcohol itself does not directly lead to violence, but it acts as a catalyst, allowing cheers from the crowds or provocation from opponents to ignite the fight between fighters.

Since the consumption of alcohol negatively impacts the brain function, drunk people fail to assess the situation which often results in overreacting and unpredictable fights.

Graffiti as advertising is merely capitalism taking advantage of the voice of dissent.

A Che Guevara T-shirt sold at a H & M does not a revolutionary make nor mean that a capitalist organization supports the notion of revolution demanding accountability from it.

I find it both amusing and disconcerting that marketers succeed at attracting the youth market by suggesting they rebel against society by adopting symbols of revolution so they can become more socially acceptable by their social group.

I support political graffiti if it truly is the sole method of dissent remaining against a regime that violates the rights of its citizenry.

That being said, if the political opinions expressed support the notion of violating the dignity of others I approve of the elimination of the graffiti but defend the right of expression by the artist despite how truly objectionable his expression might be.

People need expression even if I don’t like what they are saying.

Above: Graffiti, Ystad, Sweden

I do think graffiti should be limited to stationary objects.

I would object strongly to anyone defacing my car, especially if it is a message I do not wish to share with everyone who might see my car.

It is one thing limiting a message to one stationary place.

It is quite another making me the unwilling medium of a message I might not advocate.

Building owners can afford to pay to erase unwanted graffiti from the side of a building easier than a working class tenant in his car can afford.

If the graffiti does possess a message that I personally like, on the building of someone who can easily afford the graffiti’s removal, then I will only smile and walk on by.

Not my circus, not my monkeys.

I am no graffitist, for I lack both the courage and the artistry to express myself in this manner, but if someone creates in desperation then perhaps the need for dissent must be articulated in whatever form possible.

Above: An adaption of Eugène Delacroix’ Liberty Leading the People with an inscription “REVOLUTION HAVE STARTED HERE… AND WILL CONTINUE UNTIL…“, Bethlehem, Israel

There are very few individuals who have developed beyond the materialism that drives the planet.

Those who were supposed to pass on the torch of experience and insights to a new generation cannot be found in abundance.

As the young look at the society around them, materialistic, decadent, bourgeois in its values, bankrupt and violent, is it any wonder that they feel the need to express this dissatisfaction with their disillusionment?

Today’s generation is desperately trying to make some sense of their lives and out of the world.

Many of them are products of the middle class.

Some have rejected their materialistic backgrounds, the goal of a well-paid job, the suburban home, the latest model of automobile, club membership, first class travel, status and security, and everything that means “success“.

This is a time of tranquilizers, an age of alcohol, marriages endured, devastating divorces, high blood pressure, high pressure jobs, ulcers, frustration and disappointment in the so-called “good life“.

They see the incredible idiocy of leadership – those who were once treated with reverence and respect seem now worthy only of contempt.

Negativism now extends to all institutions, from the police to the courts to the very System itself.

We live in a world of mass media, of social media, which is as hypocritical as the society’s innate hypocrisy it exposes.

Democracy is viewed as nihilistic, dissent considered kin to bombing and murder.

The search for freedom has no compass, no road, no destination.

We are inundated with a rage of information and facts and yet remain woefully ignorant.

It is bedlam, a world-spinning frenzy.

We desperately seek a way of life that has some meaning or sense.

A way of life that means a certain degree of order, where things have some relationship and can be pieced together into a system that provides some clues as to what Life is about.

We set up religions, invent philosophies, create systems, formulate ideologies, yet never realizing that all values and factors are relative, fluid and ever-changing, like the patterns perceived in a turning kaleidoscope.

Today everything is complex and complicated to the point of incomprehension.

What sense does it make to build rockets to Mars while other men wait on welfare lines, starve in Africa, die needlessly in battle for the protection of other men’s property in the name of nationalism and honour?

We reach for the sublime and drown in the muck of madness.

Graffiti is the scream of madness, an expression of humanity almost silenced by an inhumane world.

Graffiti swears and laughs at the world, a world where the profound needs profanity to question it, a world hungry for laughter and love.

This is why I feel graffiti merits respect.

This is why I advocate graffiti as an art form, for art should speak to us about who we are and who we could be.

Above: Bunker near Berlin Anhalter Bahnhof – Those who build bunkers, throw bombs.

I deeply disapprove of graffiti that seeks to deny our darker nature, that paints the villains of that dark past as models worth emulating, that suggests the horrors of historically documented holocausts never happened, that monsters of hate should be made heroes of change.

Erase these scars from our psyche, please.

Above: Execution of Robert Blum by Austrian troops, 9 November 1848

(Robert Blum (1807 – 1848) was a German democratic politician, publicist, poet, publisher, revolutionist and member of the National Assembly of 1848.

In his fight for a strong, unified Germany he opposed ethnocentrism (to apply one’s own culture or ethnicity as a frame of reference to judge other cultures, practices, behaviours, beliefs and people, instead of using the standards of the particular culture involved). 

It was his strong belief that no one people should rule over another.

As such he was an opponent of the Prussian occupation of Poland and was in contact with the revolutionists there.

Blum was a critic of antisemitism, supported German Catholicism, and agitated for the equality of the sexes.

Although claiming immunity as a member of the National Assembly, he was arrested during a stay at the hotel “Stadt London” in Vienna and executed for his role in the Revolutions of 1848 in the German states.)

Even as we acknowledge that silence is seen by the powerful as assent, we cannot deny the world as it was nor can we hope for change by refusing to accept the world unless it is what we would like it to be.

Accepting the world as it is does not in any sense weaken our desire to change it into what we believe it should be, but it is necessary to begin where the world is if we are going to change it into what it could be.

And this is where graffiti fails.

For change will be resisted if it is not change from within.

Graffiti has always been an exposure to the new, to the radical, to the extreme.

Above: Graffiti, Pestszentlőrinc, Budapest, Hungary

Dostoyevski said that taking a new step is what people fear most.

Taking a new step, seeing the world in a new way, is why graffiti is viewed by many as something to be feared, to be abhorred, to be rejected.

Any revolutionary change must be preceded by a passive, affirmative, non-challenging attitude toward change among the mass of the people.

They must feel so frustrated, so defeated, so lost, so futureless in the prevailing system that they are willing to let go of the past and change the future.

Above: Russian writer Fyodor Dostoyevsky (1821 – 1881)

This is why I do not foresee revolution in America’s future soon nor in Turkey’s immediate future regardless of the outcome of next April’s elections.

Above: Flag of the United Staets of America

Above: Flag of Turkey

For all of its flaws people will protect a system until the day that everyone has had enough.

Graffiti is the expression of the few who have already reached that point.

Youth is impatient with the preliminaries that are essential to purposeful action.

Effective organization is thwarted by the desire for instant and dramatic change – the demand for revelation rather than revolution.

The young desire confrontation for confrontation’s sake.

Graffiti is the expression of that desire.

To build a powerful organization takes time.

It is tedious, but change takes time.

What is the alternative to working inside the System?

Rhetoric, screaming, violence, militant mouthing-off.

Spouting quotes from Mao, Castro and Che Guevara is as germane to our highly technological, computerized, cybernetic, nuclear-powered, mass media, social media society as a stagecoach on a jet runaway at JFK Airport.

Revolution must be preceded by reformation, because a political revolution cannot survive without the supporting base of a popular reformation.

Above: Martin Luther (1483 – 1546) posting his 95 Theses on the door of Wittenberg’s All Saints’ Church, 31 October 1517

People don’t like to step abruptly out of the security of familiar experience.

This is why graffiti isn’t universally embraced by everyone.

People need a bridge to cross from their own experience to a new one.

Graffiti is not that bridge, but rather it is a challenge to the common experience.

Graffiti attempts to shake up the prevailing patterns, aims to agitate, desires disenchantment and discontent with current values of the status quo, wants to produce a passion for change in a passive unchallenging climate.

John Adams wrote:

The American Revolution was effected before the war commenced.

The revolution was in the hearts and minds of the people.

This radical change in the principles, opinions, sentiments and affections of the people was the real revolution.

Effective graffiti captures passion and imagination.

Above: John Adams (1735 – 1826) (US President: 1797 – 1801)

A revolution without a prior reformation will either collapse or become a totalitarian tyranny.

A reformation means that masses of people have reached the point of disillusionment with past ways and values.

They don’t know what will work but they do know that the prevailing system doesn’t.

They won’t act for change but won’t strongly oppose those who do.

From time to time the enemy has been at our gates, but the enemy within has always been the hidden and malignant inertia of the common citizen, rendered invisible by apathy, anonymity and depersonalization.

There is no darker or devastating destiny than the death of a man’s faith in himself and in his power to direct the future.

Graffiti that advocates violence or provokes violent reactions because of its offensive nature is not graffiti worth preserving.

Graffiti that elicits laughter, demonstrates beauty, illuminates love, promises a positive vision of the future, and offers the common man a chance to create discussion deserves protection, admiration and respect.

This is what the world desperately needs:

Laughter, beauty, love, hope and communication.

Above: Graffito, Sliema, Italy

Miami is a city worth visiting, for it is a city of laughter, beauty, love and hope.

The Museum of Graffiti in Miami attempts to communicate these virtues.

Come to Miami.

Visit the Museum.

Enjoy yourself.

Discover how life is both a blessing and a lesson.

Sources: Wikipedia / Wikivoyage / Google / Saul D. Alinsky, Rules for Radicals / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Fyodor Dostoyevsky, Notes from Underground / Fyodor Dostoyevsky, The Idiot / Noel Gallagher (Oasis), “Wonderwall” / Connie Ogle, “The Museum of Graffiti in Miami“, Miami Herald, 25 February 2022 / Marcel Proust, In Search of Lost Time / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Esther Vilar, The Manipulated Man

Above: Strteet art, New York City, New York, USA

Today is gonna be the day that they’re gonna throw it back to you
And by now, you should’ve somehow realised what you got to do
I don’t believe that anybody feels the way I do about you now

Backbeat, the word is on the street that the fire in your heart is out
I’m sure you’ve heard it all before, but you never really had a doubt
I don’t believe that anybody feels the way I do about you now

And all the roads we have to walk are winding
And all the lights that lead us there are blinding
There are many things that I would like to say to you, but I don’t know how

Because maybe
You’re gonna be the one that saves me
And after all
You’re my wonderwall

Today was gonna be the day, but they’ll never throw it back to you
By now, you should’ve somehow realised what you’re not to do
I don’t believe that anybody feels the way I do about you now

And all the roads that lead you there were winding
And all the lights that light the way are blinding
There are many things that I would like to say to you, but I don’t know how

I said maybe
You’re gonna be the one that saves me
And after all

You’re my wonderwall

I said maybe (I said maybe)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me
And after all
You’re my wonderwall

I said maybe (I said maybe)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me (saves me)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me (saves me)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me (saves me)

The King’s Game / The Queen’s Gambit

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Wednesday 6 July 2022

On a typical pandemic afternoon, thousands of noncombatants watched from the sidelines as their General ordered his troops across the battlefield and became locked in a fierce duel with the enemy.

At one point the General berated himself for a tactical misstep that cost have cost his side the high stakes conflict.

Then he smiled and began outmaneuvering his foe.

I can’t lose.“, Hikaru Nakamura (32) said to the exultant onlookers.

Victory seemed close as members of the opposing army were vanquished one by one.

I win again – there you go, guys. Wow.

Above: Hikaru Nakamura

Nakamura gave himself just a moment’s respite, then plunged into another fray.

Pawns, knights, bishops and even kings fell before him as the chess grandmaster demolished a slate of online challengers, all while narrating the tide of the battle to tens of thousands of fans watching him stream live on Twitch, the Amazon-owned site where people usually broadcast themselves playing video games like Fortnite and Call of Duty.

The corona virus pandemic and stay-at-home orders crowned a host of unlikely winners catering to bored audiences, but watching livestreams of chess games?

Could one of the world’s oldest and most cerebral games really rebrand itself as a lively enough pastime to capture the interest of the masses on Twitch?

It did.

Since the pandemic began (and truth be admitted it has not really gone away, despite many countries acting as if it has), viewership of live chess games has soared.

From March through August 2020, people watched 41.2 million hours of Twitch, four times as many hours as in the previous six months, according to analytics website SullyGnome.

In June 2020, an amateur chess tournament called PogChamps was briefly the top-viewed stream on Twitch, with 63,000 people watching at once, SullyGnome said.

Above: Logo of SullyGnome

And popular Twitch gamers like Félix Lengyel (better known to his 3.3 million followers as “xQcOW“) have also recently started streaming chess.

Above: Felix Lengyel

That collision of the chess audience and the general gamer audience has created a “giant chess bonfire“, said Marcus Graham, Twitch‘s head of creator development.

Above: Marcus Graham

The popularity of online chess has partly been fueled by Nakamura.

Last month, one of the world’s top professional video game teams, Team SoloMid, beat several e-sports rivals to sign him to a six-figure contract so it could pair him with advertisers and merchandise.

Nakamura was one of the first chess players to join an e-sports team, just a week after a different group signed a Canadian player, Qiyu Zhou.

Above: Qiyu Zhou

Though Nakamura began streaming chess consistently on his Twitch channel, GMHikaru, in 2018, nearly all of his 528,000 followers have come aboard since the pandemic began.

And as his popularity has skyrocketed, media attention has increased – including a cameo of himself on the TV drama Billions in May.

It is just amazing to see the level of support and the love that I have seen from the Twitch community.“, Nakamura said.

He added that the most appealing part of playing and streaming chess was simply “the fact that I am so good at it“.

Above: Hikara Nakamura

It helps that he has an unimpeachable chess pedigree.

In 1998, at age 10, he became the youngest player in the United States to be named a Master, a title earned through strong performances.

Five years later, he became the youngest US player to graduate to Grandmaster, the highest title.

He has since won five national championships.

On his Twitch channel, Nakamura, who lives in Los Angeles, rarely stops talking.

His stream of commentary and chatter, even as he directs his pieces with the precision of an orchestra conductor, is one of the main reasons fans have flocked to him.

Above: Hikaru Nakamura

He draws people because he is so good, but also, there are other top players on Twitch that are not as engaging as he is, not as funny, not as in tune with the sort of Twitch culture.“, said Brandon Benton (34), a post-doctorial physics researcher at Cornell University who watches Nakamura stream.

He is a down-to-earth memer and jokester.

Above: Seal of Cornell University, Ithaca, New York

If you are picturing a chess match as a drawn-out slog…..

Well, you are not wrong.

A classical game without time limits can last five hours, but many online battles, including nearly all the games that Nakamura streams are blitz chess.

Each player has just a few minutes to complete their moves, leading to an aggressive, risky style of play that fans say is exhilarating to watch.

A player’s timer stops only when it is the other person’s turn to move a piece, so planning ahead and making quick calls is vital to managing the clock.

The climax often comes when mere seconds remain and the combatants exchange a rapid flurry of moves.

In an August 2020 stream, Nakamura had fewer pieces left than his opponent and just 20 seconds remaining, but 41 moves later, he was grinning after pulling off an improbable checkmate that involved charging a pawn across the board and hatching it into a queen.

It had taken him just 16 seconds.

Above: Hikaru Nakamura

More than anything, it is the ability to play extremely high-level chess and win while I seemingly am not focused on the game and talking to my chat.“, Nakamura said of his ability to draw a large audience, which he usually retains as he plays more than 20 or more games in one sitting.

At least at blitz chess, I am probably the best or second-best player ever, in the entire history, at least online.

Above: Hikaru Nakamura

Also in 2020, another factor in the rise in popularity of chess was The Queen’s Gambit, an American coming-of-age period drama streaming TV miniseries based on the 1983 novel of the same name by Walter Tevis.

The title refers to the “Queen’s Gambit“, a chess opening.

Beginning in the mid-1950s and proceeding into the 1960s, the story follows the life of Beth Harmon (Anya Taylor-Joy), a fictional chess prodigy on her rise to the top of the chess world while struggling with drug and alcohol dependency.

Netflix released The Queen’s Gambit on 23 October 2020.

After four weeks it had become Netflix’s most-watched – including by my wife – scripted miniseries, making it Netflix’s top program in 63 countries. 

The series received critical acclaim, with particular praise for Taylor-Joy’s performance, the cinematography, and production values.

It also received a positive response from the chess community for its accurate depictions of high-level chess, and data suggests that it increased public interest in the game.

I will be honest.

I am no Nakamura now nor Harmon here.

Friends and family taught me the game, but never taught me how to win.

Nor taught me to invest a lot of emotion or time in the game.

Above: Antique Indian chess set made from sandalwood.
Here the pieces are represented by riders upon elephants, horses & camels predating the European Staunton design.

In the Middle Ages and during the Renaissance, chess was a part of noble culture.

It was used to teach war strategy and was dubbed “the King’s Game“.

Above: Duke Augustus of Brunswick-Lüneburg (1579 – 1666)




Chess or the King’s Game (Das Schach- oder Königsspiel) (1616) is a book on chess, which was published in Leipzig under the name of Gustavus Selenus, the pen name of Duke Augustus.

As a young prince, Augustus probably had learned of the game during his voyages to Italy and purchased numerous chess books from the Augsburg merchant and art collector Philipp Hainhofer.


The first textbook on chess in the German language, Chess is mainly based on the Libro de la invencion liberal y arte del juego del axedrez (1561) by the Spanish priest Ruy López de Segura.

Chess also contains extensive philosophical and historical considerations (e.g. on the “chess village” of Ströbeck).

In addition to chess instruction, Chess contained interesting illustrations of contemporary German chess pieces.

The usage for chessmen at the time tended to favour slender designs with nested floral crowns.


The book was so successful that pieces of this pattern became known as the “Selenus chess sets”.

Over time, pieces became taller, thinner, and more elaborate.

Their apparent floral nature lead some to name them “Garden chess sets” or “Tulip chess sets“.

Selenus pattern sets were commonly made in Germany and Central Europe until about 1914 when they were completely eclipsed by the more playable and stable Staunton chess set pattern, introduced in 1849 by manufacturer Jaques of London.

Above: Philipp Hainhofer (1578 – 1647)

Above: Libro de la invencion liberal y arte del juego del axedrez

Above: Ströbeck, Germany

Above: Selenus chess set

Gentlemen are “to be mainly seen in the play at Chess“, says the overview at the beginning of Baldassare Castiglione’s The Book of the Courtier (1528), but chess should not be a gentleman’s main passion.

Castiglione explains it further:

And what say you to the game at chess?

It is truly an honest kind of entertainment and witty, quotes Sir Frederick.

But I think it has a fault, which is, that a man may be to counting at it, for whoever will be excellent in the play of chess, I believe he must bestow much time about it, and apply it with so much study, that a man may as soon learn some noble science, or compass any other matter of importance, and yet in the end in bestowing all that labour, he knows no more but a game.

Therefore in this I believe there happens a very rare thing, namely, that the mean is more commendable, then the excellency.

Above: The Book of the Courtier

Chess was often used as a basis of sermons on morality.

An example is Liber de moribus hominum et officiis nobilium sive super ludo scacchorum (‘Book of the customs of men and the duties of nobles or the Book of Chess‘), written by an Italian Dominican monk Jacobus de Cessolis in 1300.

This book was one of the most popular of the Middle Ages. 

Above: Illustration from Libellus de moribus hominum et officiis nobilium ac popularium super ludo scachorum

The work was translated into many other languages (the first printed edition was published at Utrecht in 1473) and was the basis for William Caxton’s The Game and Play of Chess (1474), one of the first books printed in English.

Different chess pieces were used as metaphors for different classes of people, and human duties were derived from the rules of the game or from visual properties of the chess pieces:

The knight ought to be made all armed upon an horse in such wise that he have a helmet on his head and a spear in his right hand, and covered with his shield, a sword and a mace on his left side, clad with an halberd and plates to cover his breast, leg harness on his legs, spurs on his heels, on his hands his gauntlets, his horse well broken and taught and apt to battle and covered with his armour.

When the knights have been bathed in blood, that is the sign that they should lead a new life and new manners.

Also they wake all the night in prayers and orations unto God that He will give him grace that they may get that thing that they may not get by nature.

The king or prince girds about them a sword in sign that they should abide and keep him of whom they take their dispenses and dignity.

Above: William Caxton (1422 – 1491)

During the Age of Enlightenment (17th / 18th centuries), chess was viewed as a means of self-improvement. 

Benjamin Franklin, in his article “The Morals of Chess” (1750), wrote:

The game of chess is not merely an idle amusement. Several very valuable qualities of the mind, useful in the course of human life, are to be acquired and strengthened by it, so as to become habits ready on all occasions.

For life is a kind of chess, in which we have often points to gain, and competitors or adversaries to contend with, and in which there is a vast variety of good and ill events, that are, in some degree, the effect of prudence, or the want of it.

By playing at chess then, we may learn:

I. Foresight: which looks a little into futurity, and considers the consequences that may attend an action

II. Circumspection: which surveys the whole chess board, or scene of action: – the relation of the several pieces and their situations

III. Caution: not to make our moves too hastily

Above: Benjamin Franklin (1706 – 1790)

Chess was occasionally criticized in the 19th century as a waste of time.

Chess is taught to children in schools around the world today.

Many schools host chess clubs and there are many scholastic tournaments specifically for children.

Tournaments are held regularly in many countries, hosted by organizations such as the US Chess Federation and the National Scholastic Chess Foundation.

Chess is many times depicted in the arts.

Chess became a source of inspiration in the arts in literature soon after the spread of the game to the Arab world and Europe in the Middle Ages.

The earliest works of art centered on the game are miniatures in medieval manuscripts, as well as poems, which were often created with the purpose of describing the rules.

After chess gained popularity in the 15th and 16th centuries, many works of art related to the game were created.

Above: The Chess Players, Honoré Daumier, 1863

In the Palatine Chapel of the Norman Palace in Palermo you can admire the first painting of a chess game that is known to the world.

Above: Norman Palace, Palermo, Italy

The work dates from around 1143 and the artists who created the Muslim players were chosen by the Norman king of Sicily Roger II of Hauteville, who erected the church.

Above: Chess game, Palatine Chapel, Norman Palace, Palermo, Italy

As the popularity of the game became widespread during the 15th and 16th centuries, so too did the number of paintings depicting the subject.

Continuing into the 20th century, artists created works related to the game often taking inspiration from the life of famous players or well-known games.

An unusual connection between art and chess is the life of Marcel Duchamp, who in 1923 almost fully suspended his artistic career to focus on chess.

Above: Marcel Duchamp (1887 – 1968)

The earliest known reference to chess in a European text is a Medieval Latin poem, Versus de scachis.

The oldest manuscript containing this poem has been given the estimated date of 997. 

Other early examples include miniatures accompanying books.

Some of them have high artistic value.

Above: First page of Escacs d’amor

Perhaps the best known example is the 13th-century Libro de los juegos.

The book contains 151 illustrations, and while most of them are centered on the board, showing problems, the players and architectural settings are different in each picture.

Above: Knights Templar playing chess, Libro de los juegos, 1283

The pieces illustrating chess problems in Luca Pacioli’s Latin manuscript De ludo scacchorum (On the Game of Chess) (1500), described as “futuristic” even by today’s standards, may have been designed by Leonardo da Vinci.

Above: Luca Pacioli (1447 – 1517)

After chess became gradually more popular in Europe in the 15th and 16th centuries, especially in Spain and Italy, many artists began writing poems using chess as a theme. 

Scachs d’amor (Chess of love), written by an unknown Catalan artist in the end of the 15th century, describes a game between Mars and Venus, using chess as an allegory of love.

The story also serves as a pretence to describe the rules of the game. 

Above: Statue of Mars, Musei Capitolini, Roma, Italia

Above: Statue of Venus, British Museum, London

De ludo scacchorum by Francesco Bernardino Caldogno, also created at that time, is a collection of gameplay advice, presented in poetic fashion.

One of the most influential works of chess-related art is Marco Girolamo Vida’s Scaccia ludus (1527), centered on a game played between Apollo and Mercury on Mount Olympus.

Above: Marco Girolamo Vida (1485 – 1566)

Above: Statue of Apollo, Farnese Collection, Napoli, Italia

Above: Figure of Mercury, Amsterdam Royal Palace, Netherlands

Above: Mount Olympus, Greece

It is said that, because of its high artistry, the poem made a great impression on anyone who read it, including Desiderius Erasmus. 

Above: Desiderius Erasmus of Rotterdam (1466 – 1536)

It also directly inspired at least two other works.

The first is Jan Kochanowski’s poem Chess (1565), which describes the game as a battle between two armies.

Above: Jan Kochanowski (1530 – 1584)

The second is William Jones’ Caissa, or the game of chess (1772), popularised the pseudo-ancient Greek dryad Caissa to be the “goddess of chess“.

Above: William Jones (1746 – 1794)

Since the 19th century, artists have been creating novels and – since the 20th century – films related to chess.

In the 20th century, artists created many works related to the game, sometimes taking their inspiration from the life of famous players or well-known games.

Significant works where chess plays a key role:

  • Thomas Middleton’s A Game at Chess 

  • Through the Looking Glass by Lewis Carroll

  • Vladimir Nabokov’s The Defense

 

  • The Royal Game by Stefan Zweig

  • Poul Anderson’s The Immortal Game

  • John Brunner’s The Squares of the City

  • Waldemar Lysiak’s The Chess Player

Above: Waldemar Lysiak

  • Kurt Vonnegut’s All the King’s Horses

Above: Kurt Vonnegut (1922 – 2007)

  • Ian Fleming’s From Russia with Love

  • Lionel Fanthorpe’s Forbidden Planet

Above: Lionel Fanthorpe

  • Italo Calvino’s Invisible Cities

  • Ellen Raskin’s The Westing Game

  • Walter Tevis’ The Queen’s Gambit

  • Fernando Arrabal’s The Tower Struck by Lightning

Above: Fernando Arrabal

  • George R.R. Martin’s Unsound Variations

Above: George R.R. Martin

  • Katherine Neville’s The Eight

  • Jonathan Lethen’s Dissident Gardens

  • Ronan Bennett’s Zugzwang

Above: Ronan Bennett

  • Roger Zelazny’s Unicorn Variation

Above: Roger Zelazny (1937 – 1995)

  • Samuel Beckett’s Endgame

Above: Samuel Beckett (1906 – 1989)

  • Arthur C. Clarke’s Quarantine

Above: Arthur C. Clarke (1917 – 2008)

Chess has also featured in film classics such as: 

  • Ingmar Bergman’s The Seventh Seal

  • Satyajit Ray’s The Chess Players 

  • Powell and Pressburger’s A Matter of Life and Death

  • Blade Runner

  • 2001: A Space Odyssey

  • Knight Moves

  • Fresh

  • Geri’s Game

  • The Shawshank Redemption

  • X-Men movie franchise

  • The Luzhin Defence

  • Knights of the South Bronx

  • Life of a King

  • The Dark Horse

  • Queen to Play

Chess is also present in contemporary popular culture.

For example, the characters in Star Trek play a futuristic version of the game called “Federation tridimensional chess“.

Wizard’s chess” is played in J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone.

Stealth chess” is played in Terry Pratchett’s Discworld series.

Above: Terry Pratchett (1948 – 2015)

The musical Chess (with its pop hit “One Night in Bangkok“) was loosely based on the life of chess Grandmaster Bobby Fischer.

(Robert James Fischer (1943 – 2008) was an American chess grandmaster and the 11th World Chess Champion.

A chess prodigy, at age 14 he won the 1958 US Championship.

In 1964, he won the same tournament with a perfect score (11 wins).

Above: Bobby Fischer, 1960

Qualifying for the 1972 World Championship, Fischer swept matches with Mark Taimanov and Bent Larsen by 6–0 scores.

Above: Mark Taimanov (1926 – 2016)

Above: Bent Larson (1935 – 2010)

After another qualifying match against Tigran Petrosian, Fischer won the title match against Boris Spassky of the USSR, in Reykjavik, Iceland.

Above: Tigran Petrosian (1929 – 1984)

Publicized as a Cold War confrontation between the US and USSR, the match attracted more worldwide interest than any chess championship before or since.

Above: Boris Spasski

In 1975, Fischer refused to defend his title when an agreement could not be reached with FIDE, chess’s international governing body, over the match conditions.

Above: Logo of the Fédération Internationale des Échecs

As a result, the Soviet challenger Anatoly Karpov was named World Champion by default.

Above: Anatoly Karpov

Fischer subsequently disappeared from the public eye, though occasional reports of erratic behavior emerged.

In 1992, he reemerged to win an unofficial rematch against Spassky.

It was held in Yugoslavia, which was under a United Nations embargo at the time.

Above: Flag of Serbia and Montenegro (Yugoslavia) (1992 – 2006)

His participation led to a conflict with the US government, which warned Fischer that his participation in the match would violate an executive order imposing US sanctions on Yugoslavia.

The US government ultimately issued a warrant for his arrest.

After that, Fischer lived as an émigré.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

In 2004, he was arrested in Japan and held for several months for using a passport that the US government had revoked.

Above: Flag of Japan

Eventually, he was granted an Icelandic passport and citizenship by a special act of the Icelandic Althing, allowing him to live there until his death in 2008.

Above: Flag of Iceland

Fischer made numerous lasting contributions to chess.

His book My 60 Memorable Games, published in 1969, is regarded as essential reading in chess literature.

In the 1990s, he patented a modified chess timing system that added a time increment after each move, now a standard practice in top tournament and match play.

He also invented Fischer random chess, also known as Chess960, a chess variant in which the initial position of the pieces is randomized to one of 960 possible positions.

Fischer made numerous antisemitic statements and denied the Holocaust.

His antisemitism, professed since at least the 1960s, was a major theme in his public and private remarks.

Above: Jews on selection ramp at Auschwitz, Poland, May 1944

There has been widespread comment and speculation concerning his psychological condition based on his extreme views and unusual behavior.

Above: Bobby Fischer, 1972

The 1993 film Searching for Bobby Fischer uses Fischer’s name in the title even though the film and book are about the life of chess prodigy Joshua Waitzkin whose father wrote the book.

Outside of the United States, it was released as Innocent Moves.

The title refers to the search for Fischer’s successor after his disappearance from competitive chess, since Waitzkin’s father feels that his son could be that successor.

Fischer never saw the film and complained that it invaded his privacy by using his name without his permission. 

Fischer never received any compensation from the film, calling it “a monumental swindle“.

In April 2009, the documentary Me and Bobby Fischer, about Fischer’s last years as his old friend Saemundur Palsson gets him out of jail in Japan and helps him settle in Iceland, was premiered in Iceland.

In October 2009, the biographical film Bobby Fischer Live was released, with Damien Chapa directing and starring as Fischer.

In 2011, documentary filmmaker Liz Garbus released Bobby Fischer Against the World, which explores the life of Fischer, with interviews from Grandmasters Garry Kasparov, Anthony Saidy, and others.

In 2015, the American biographical film Pawn Sacrifice was released, starring Tobey Maguire as Fischer.)

As aforementioned, one unusual connection between art and chess is the life of Marcel Duchamp, who almost fully suspended his artistic career to focus on chess in 1923.

Which leads me to a strange story…..

Above: Sad Young Man on a Train, Marcel Duchamp, 1912

If you knew absolutely nothing about art or literature, Julian Wasser’s photograph of Dadaist Marcel Duchamp and writer Eve Babitz playing chess would still be a knockout.

In the black-and-white picture, made in 1963, a nude, buxom Babitz and a black-suited Duchamp sit at a wood table in an art gallery, manipulating pawns and rooks.

The image’s deadpan humour comes from the subjects’ incongruity, as well as their scrupulous attention to the game —

Neither seems aware of her nakedness.

Above: Duchamp Playing Chess with a Nude (Eve Babitz), Duchamp Retrospective, Pasadena Art Museum, 1963, Julian Wasser

For fans of Duchamp and Babitz, the photographs capture the meeting of two minds:

  • the father of conceptual art, responsible for putting a urinal in a gallery and proclaiming it sculpture

Above: Fontaine, Marcel Duchamp, 1917

  • the writer who captured the glitz of mid-20th-century Los Angeles in sparkling, singular prose

Above: Eve Babitz (1943 – 2021)

The backstory to Wasser’s photo shoot is both tantalizing gossip and crucial cultural history.

Above: Julian Wasser

When the pictures were made, Babitz was a 20-year-old student at Los Angeles Community College.

The daughter of a violinist and an artist, and the goddaughter of Russian composer Igor Stravinsky, Babitz was already at ease in a sophisticated, aesthetic milieu.

Above: Igor Stravinsky (1882 – 1971)

She integrated herself into L.A.’s slowly burgeoning art scene, partying with Billy Al Bengston, Ed Kienholz, Kenneth Price, and the men who would become integral to the California light and space movement: Larry Bell, Robert Irwin, and Peter Alexander.

Above: Billy Al Bengston

Above: Ed Kienholz (1927 – 1994)

Above: Kenneth Price (1935 – 2012)

Above: Larry Bell

Above: Robert Irwin

Above: Peter Alexander (1939 – 2020)

Years later, she also became romantically involved with both Ed Ruscha and his brother.

Babitz fully embraced her role as an art groupie.

Above: Edward Ruscha

Above: Eve Babitz

Through this cast of characters, Babitz met Walter Hopps, a rising art world macher.

He founded Los Angeles’s first major gallery, Ferus, in 1957, then left to become a curator at the Pasadena Art Museum — now the Norton Simon Museum.

Above: Walter Hopps and Eve Babitz, Pasadena, 1966

(He left his gallery in good hands, though — his successor, Irving Blum, gave Andy Warhol his first solo show in 1962.)

Above: Andy Warhol (1928 – 1987)

In the early 1960s, Hopps, who was married to art historian Shirley Nielsen, began an affair with Babitz.

Above: Walter Hopps and Shirley Nielsen

Hopps hadn’t yet turned 30, but he was already instituting a radical, ambitious program at the Museum.

He decided to mount Duchamp’s first American retrospective, and include over 100 artworks.

At the time, Duchamp had long been out of the public eye.

Above: Marcel Duchamp, Pasadena, 1962

He had gained fame in the 1910s for his concept of the “readymade”— found objects such as a bicycle wheel or snow shovel presented as art.

Above: In Advance of the Broken Arm, Marcel Duchamp

In 1918, Duchamp took leave of the New York art scene, interrupting his work on The Large Glass.

Above: The Large Glass, Marcel Duchamp

He went to Buenos Aires, where he remained for nine months and often played chess.

He carved his own chess set from wood with help from a local craftsman who made the knights.

Above: Buenos Aires, Argentina

He moved to Paris in 1919 and then back to the United States in 1920.

In 1923, he proclaimed that he was abandoning art making in order to play chess.

Upon his return to Paris, Duchamp was, in essence, no longer a practicing artist.

Instead, his main interest was chess, which he studied for the rest of his life to the exclusion of most other activities.

Duchamp is seen, briefly, playing chess with Man Ray in the short film Entr’acte (1924) by René Clair.

Above: Marcel Duchamp and Man Ray, Entr’acte, 1924

He designed the 1925 poster for the Third French Chess Championship, and as a competitor in the event, finished at fifty percent (3–3, with two draws), earning the title of chess master.

During this period his fascination with chess so distressed his first wife that she glued his pieces to the chessboard.

Duchamp continued to play in the French Championships and also in the Chess Olympiads from 1928 to 1933.

Sometime in the early 1930s, Duchamp reached the height of his ability, but realized that he had little chance of winning recognition in top-level chess.

In the following years, his participation in chess tournaments declined, but he discovered correspondence chess and became a chess journalist, writing weekly newspaper columns.

While his contemporaries were achieving spectacular success in the art world by selling their works to high-society collectors, Duchamp observed:

I am still a victim of chess.

It has all the beauty of art — and much more.

It cannot be commercialized.

Chess is much purer than art in its social position.”

 

On another occasion, Duchamp elaborated:

The chess pieces are the block alphabet which shapes thoughts.

These thoughts, although making a visual design on the chessboard, express their beauty abstractly, like a poem.

I have come to the personal conclusion that while all artists are not chess players, all chess players are artists.

Two decades later, he began work in secret on an enigmatic masterpiece, Étant Donnés (1946 – 1966).

When the show ran, he was — at least publicly — a retired artist in his mid-seventies.

Above: Étant Donné, Marcel Duchamp

Babitz claims that she didn’t receive an invite to the exhibition’s opening part at the Hotel Green because Hopps’s wife was in town, but even Babitz’s 17-year-old sister, Mirandi, got to attend — and photographer Julian Wasser drove her to the fête.

Seething with envy, Babitz wanted to take revenge on her paramour.

Wasser, who was known for taking nude photographs of young female Angelenos, suggested a titillating form of retribution:

Playing chess at the Museum, in the buff, with Duchamp.

Above: Eve Babitz

Babitz told the Archives of American Art that the proposition seemed “like the best idea I’d ever heard in my life.

I mean, it was, not only was it vengeance, it was art.

Lessening her own inhibitions, perhaps, was the fact that Wasser had already shot her naked, at her own command:

In the pre-iPhone era, she had requested and received sexy snapshots to share with men.

Above: Eve Babitz

Wasser coordinated the photo shoot without alerting either the museum or Duchamp about his intentions.

Babitz’s performance took place before the museum opened, so her audience was the teamster staff “marching back and forth with big pieces of art,” as she once explained.

During the game, Babitz and Duchamp discussed her godfather, Stravinsky, and his famous 1910 suite, The Firebird.

Duchamp won their games as Wasser clicked his shutter.

Eventually, Hopps walked into the gallery and was so surprised that his Double Mint gum fell out of his mouth.

According to Babitz, he began returning her calls after the incident.

Above: Eve Babitz

Wasser showed Babitz the proofs, and she ultimately selected one in which she was turned away from the camera, her face obscured by her bobbed hair.

At first, she wanted to conceal her identity from the public, though she eventually opened up about her participation in the famous photograph.

The choice, as Lili Anolik points out in her Babitz biography, Hollywood’s Eve (2019), gives the picture additional strangeness as it simultaneously depicts shyness and exhibitionism, a plea for both attention and anonymity.

Anolik writes that Babitz “wasn’t just model and muse, passive and pliable, but artist and instigator, wicked and subversive.”

As Babitz told her biographer, “Walter thought he was running the show, and I finally got to run something.”

Throughout the following decades, she published seven books.

Both her fiction and non-fiction glistened with memorable detail about her Hollywood surroundings, passionate love affairs, and colourful friends.

Without help from Wasser’s framing or Duchamp’s fame, Babitz harnessed the power of her sexuality and fearlessness into art that was all her own.

I find myself more saddened than titillated by this story.

Babitz’s talents seem less literary, less imaginative and more scandalous, more rebellious.

She strikes me as a woman whose creativity was reserved to relating the drama in her life which she herself set into motion.

As for Duchamp, I feel Babitz used him and reduced him to the level of a doddering shadow lost in her sexuality on open display .

Duchamp was important in the famous photograph as only a means to an end, her fame and the mockery of all that he was.

Ultimately the very message of her nudity being ignored by both herself and Duchamp conveys to me the very emptiness of her character.

Take away her sexuality and what is left?

What had she to offer but an account of her sexuality?

Chess is a board game played between two players.

Today, chess is one of the world’s most popular games, played by millions of people worldwide.

Chess is an abstract strategy game and involves no hidden information.

It is played on a square chessboard with 64 squares arranged in an eight-by-eight grid.

At the start, each player (one controlling the white pieces, the other controlling the black pieces) controls sixteen pieces:

  • one king
  • one queen
  • two rooks
  • two bishops
  • two knights
  • eight pawns

The object of the game is to checkmate the opponent’s king, whereby the king is under immediate attack (in “check“) and there is no way for it to escape.

There are also several ways a game can end in a draw.

Organized chess arose in the 19th century.

Chess competition today is governed internationally by the Fédération Internationale des Échecs (FIDE) (International Chess Federation).

The first universally recognized World Chess Champion, Wilhelm Steinitz, claimed his title in 1886.

Above: Wilhelm Steinitz (1836 – 1900)

 

Magnus Carlsen is the current World Champion.

Above: Magnus Carlsen

A huge body of chess theory has developed since the game’s inception.

Aspects of art are found in chess composition.

Chess in its turn influenced Western culture and art.

It also has connections with other fields such as mathematics, computer science and psychology.

The rules of chess are published by FIDE, chess’s international governing body, in its Handbook.

Chess pieces are divided into two different colored sets.

While the sets may not be literally white and black (e.g. the light set may be a yellowish or off-white color, the dark set may be brown or red), they are always referred to as “white” and “black“.

The players of the sets are referred to as White and Black, respectively.

Chess sets come in a wide variety of styles.

For competition, the Staunton pattern is preferred.

The game is played on a square board of eight rows (ranks) and eight columns (files).

By convention, the 64 squares alternate in color and are referred to as light and dark squares.

Common colors for chessboards are white and brown, or white and dark green.

The pieces are set out as shown below:

Thus, on White’s first rank, from left to right, the pieces are placed in the following order:

  • rook, knight, bishop, queen, king, bishop, knight, rook.

On the second rank is placed a row of eight pawns.

Black’s position mirrors White’s, with an equivalent piece on the same file.

The board is placed with a light square at the right-hand corner nearest to each player.

The correct positions of the king and queen may be remembered by the phrase “queen on her own colour” ─ i.e. the white queen begins on a light square and the black queen on a dark square.

In competitive games, the piece colors are allocated to players by the organizers.

In informal games, the colours are usually decided randomly, for example by a coin toss, or by one player concealing a white pawn in one hand and a black pawn in the other, and having the opponent choose.

White moves first, after which players alternate turns, moving one piece per turn, except for castling, when two pieces are moved.

A piece is moved to either an unoccupied square or one occupied by an opponent’s piece, which is captured and removed from play.

With the sole exception of en passant, all pieces capture by moving to the square that the opponent’s piece occupies.

Moving is compulsory.

A player may not skip a turn, even when having to move is detrimental.

Each piece has its own way of moving.

All pieces can capture an enemy piece if it is located on a square to which they would be able to move if the square was unoccupied.

  • The king moves one square in any direction.

There is also a special move called castling that involves moving the king and a rook.

The king is the most valuable piece — attacks on the king must be immediately countered, and if this is impossible, immediate loss of the game ensues.

Once per game, each king can make a move known as castling.

Castling consists of moving the king two squares toward a rook of the same color on the same rank, and then placing the rook on the square that the king crossed.

Castling is permissible if the following conditions are met:

  • Neither the king nor the rook has previously moved during the game.
  • There are no pieces between the king and the rook.
  • The king is not in check and does not pass through or land on any square attacked by an enemy piece.
    • Castling is still permitted if the rook is under attack or if the rook crosses an attacked square.

Above: White king

  • rook can move any number of squares along a rank or file, but cannot leap over other pieces. Along with the king, a rook is involved during the king’s castling move.

Above: Black rook

  • bishop can move any number of squares diagonally, but cannot leap over other pieces.

Above: White bishop

  • queen combines the power of a rook and bishop and can move any number of squares along a rank, file, or diagonal, but cannot leap over other pieces.

Above: Black queen

  • knight moves to any of the closest squares that are not on the same rank, file, or diagonal. (Thus the move forms an “L“-shape: two squares vertically and one square horizontally, or two squares horizontally and one square vertically.)
    • The knight is the only piece that can leap over other pieces.

Above: White knight

  • A pawn can move forward to the unoccupied square immediately in front of it on the same file, or on its first move it can advance two squares along the same file, provided both squares are unoccupied (black dots in the diagram).
    • A pawn can capture an opponent’s piece on a square diagonally in front of it by moving to that square (black crosses).
    • It cannot capture a piece while advancing along the same file.
    • A pawn has two special moves: the en passant capture and promotion.
    • When a pawn makes a two-step advance from its starting position and there is an opponent’s pawn on a square next to the destination square on an adjacent file, then the opponent’s pawn can capture it en passant (“in passing”), moving to the square the pawn passed over. This can be done only on the turn immediately following the enemy pawn’s two-square advance; otherwise, the right to do so is forfeited. For example, in the animated diagram, the black pawn advances two squares from g7 to g5, and the white pawn on f5 can take it en passant on g6 (but only immediately after the black pawn’s advance).
    • When a pawn advances to its eighth rank, as part of the move, it is promoted and must be exchanged for the player’s choice of queen, rook, bishop, or knight of the same color. Usually, the pawn is chosen to be promoted to a queen, but in some cases, another piece is chosen. This is called underpromotion. There is no restriction on the piece promoted to, so it is possible to have more pieces of the same type than at the start of the game (e.g., two or more queens). If the required piece is not available (e.g. a second queen) an inverted rook is sometimes used as a substitute, but this is not recognized in FIDE sanctioned games.

Above: Black pawn

When a king is under immediate attack, it is said to be in check.

A move in response to a check is legal only if it results in a position where the king is no longer in check.

This can involve capturing the checking piece.

Interposing a piece between the checking piece and the king (which is possible only if the attacking piece is a queen, rook, or bishop and there is a square between it and the king), or moving the king to a square where it is not under attack.

Castling is not a permissible response to a check.

The object of the game is to checkmate the opponent.

This occurs when the opponent’s king is in check, and there is no legal way to get it out of check.

It is never legal for a player to make a move that puts or leaves the player’s own king in check.

In casual games, it is common to announce “check” when putting the opponent’s king in check, but this is not required by the rules of chess and is not usually done in tournaments.

A game can be won in the following ways:

  • Checkmate: 
    • The king is in check and the player has no legal move.
  • Resignation: 
    • A player may resign, conceding the game to the opponent. Most tournament players consider it good etiquette to resign in a hopeless position.
  • Win on time: 
    • In games with a time control, a player wins if the opponent runs out of time, even if the opponent has a superior position, as long as the player has a theoretical possibility to checkmate the opponent were the game to continue.
  • Forfeit: 
    • A player who cheats, violates the rules, or violates the rules of conduct specified for the particular tournament can be forfeited.
    • Occasionally, both players are forfeited.

There are several ways a game can end in a draw:

  • Stalemate: 
    • If the player to move has no legal move, but is not in check, the position is a stalemate, and the game is drawn.
  • Dead position: 
    • If neither player is able to checkmate the other by any legal sequence of moves, the game is drawn. For example, if only the kings are on the board, all other pieces having been captured, checkmate is impossible, and the game is drawn by this rule. On the other hand, if both players still have a knight, there is a highly unlikely yet theoretical possibility of checkmate, so this rule does not apply. The dead position rule supersedes the previous rule which referred to “insufficient material“, extending it to include other positions where checkmate is impossible, such as blocked pawn endings where the pawns cannot be attacked.
  • Draw by agreement: 
    • In tournament chess, draws are most commonly reached by mutual agreement between the players. The correct procedure is to verbally offer the draw, make a move, then start the opponent’s clock. Traditionally, players have been allowed to agree to a draw at any point in the game, occasionally even without playing a move. In recent years, efforts have been made to discourage short draws, for example by forbidding draw offers before move thirty.
  • Threefold repetition: 
    • This most commonly occurs when neither side is able to avoid repeating moves without incurring a disadvantage. In this situation, either player can claim a draw. This requires the players to keep a valid written record of the game so that the claim can be verified by the arbiter if challenged. The three occurrences of the position need not occur on consecutive moves for a claim to be valid. The addition of the fivefold repetition rule in 2014 requires the arbiter to intervene immediately and declare the game a draw after five occurrences of the same position, consecutive or otherwise, without requiring a claim by either player. FIDE rules make no mention of perpetual check. This is merely a specific type of draw by threefold repetition.
  • Fifty-move rule: 
    • If during the previous 50 moves no pawn has been moved and no capture has been made, either player can claim a draw. The addition of the seventy-five-move rule in 2014 requires the arbiter to intervene and immediately declare the game drawn after 75 moves without a pawn move or capture, without requiring a claim by either player. There are several known endgames where it is possible to force a mate, but it requires more than 50 moves before a pawn move or capture is made.
  • Draw on time: 
    • In games with a time control, the game is drawn if a player is out of time and no sequence of legal moves would allow the opponent to checkmate the player.

In competition, chess games are played with a time control.

If a player’s time runs out before the game is completed, the game is automatically lost (provided the opponent has enough pieces left to deliver checkmate). 

The duration of a game ranges from long (or “classical“) games, which can take up to seven hours (even longer if adjournments are permitted), to bullet chess (under three minutes per player for the entire game).

Intermediate between these are rapid chess games, lasting between one and two hours per game, a popular time control in amateur weekend tournaments.

Time is controlled using a chess clock that has two displays, one for each player’s remaining time.

Analog chess clocks have been largely replaced by digital clocks, which allow for time controls with increments.

Time controls are also enforced in correspondence chess competitions.

A typical time control is 50 days for every ten moves.

Historically, many different notation systems have been used to record chess moves.

The standard system today is short-form algebraic notation.

In this system, each square is uniquely identified by a set of coordinates, ah for the files followed by 18 for the ranks.

The usual format is:

initial of the piece moved – file of destination square – rank of destination square

The pieces are identified by their initials.

In English, these are K (king), Q (queen), R (rook), B (bishop), and N (knight: N is used to avoid confusion with king).

For example, Qg5 means “queen moves to the g-file, 5th rank” (that is, to the square g5).

Different initials may be used for other languages.

In chess literature, especially that intended for an international audience, the language-specific letters are often replaced by universally recognized piece symbols: for example, ♞c6 in place of Nc6.

This style is known as Figurine Algebraic Notation (FAN)

To resolve ambiguities, an additional letter or number is added to indicate the file or rank from which the piece moved (e.g. Ngf3 means “knight from the g-file moves to the square f3“; R1e2 means “rook on the first rank moves to e2“).

For pawns, no letter initial is used, so e4 means “pawn moves to the square e4“.

If the piece makes a capture, “x” is usually inserted before the destination square.

Thus Bxf3 means “bishop captures on f3“.

When a pawn makes a capture, the file from which the pawn departed is used to identify the pawn making the capture, for example, exd5 (pawn on the e-file captures the piece on d5).

Ranks may be omitted if unambiguous, for example, exd (pawn on the e-file captures a piece somewhere on the d-file).

A minority of publications use “:” to indicate a capture, and some omit the capture symbol altogether.

In its most abbreviated form, exd5 may be rendered simply as ed.

An en passant capture may optionally be marked with the notation “e.p.

If a pawn moves to its last rank, achieving promotion, the piece chosen is indicated after the move (for example, e1=Q or e1Q).

Castling is indicated by the special notations 0-0 (or O-O) for kingside castling and 0-0-0 (or O-O-O) for queenside castling.

A move that places the opponent’s king in check usually has the notation “+” added.

There are no specific notations for discovered check or double check.

Checkmate can be indicated by “#“.

At the end of the game, “1–0” means White won, “0–1” means Black won, and “½–½” indicates a draw.

Chess moves can be annotated with punctuation marks and other symbols.

For example:

  • !” indicates a good move
  • !!” an excellent move
  • ?” a mistake
  • ??” a blunder
  • !?” an interesting move that may not be best
  • ?!” a dubious move not easily refuted

For example, one variation of a simple trap known as the Scholar’s mate (see animated diagram) can be recorded:

1. e4 e5

2. Qh5?! Nc6

3. Bc4 Nf6?? 

4. Qxf7#

Chess has an extensive literature.

In 1913, the chess historian H.J.R. Murray estimated the total number of books, magazines, and chess columns in newspapers to be about 5,000.

Above: Harold James Ruthven Murray (1868 – 1955)

B.H. Wood estimated the number, as of 1949, to be about 20,000.

Above: Baruch Harold Wood (1909 – 1989)

David Hooper and Kenneth Whyld write that:

Since then there has been a steady increase year by year of the number of new chess publications.

No one knows how many have been printed.

Significant public chess libraries include the John G. White Chess and Checkers Collection at Cleveland Public Library, with over 32,000 chess books and over 6,000 bound volumes of chess periodicals.

Above: Cleveland Public Library Main Branch, Cleveland, Ohio

The Chess & Draughts collection at the National Library of the Netherlands (The Hague), with about 30,000 books.

Above: National Library of the Netherlands, The Hague, The Netherlands

There is an extensive scientific literature on chess psychology.

Alfred Binet and others showed that knowledge and verbal, rather than visuospatial, ability lies at the core of expertise. 

Above: Alfred Binet (1857 – 1911)

In his doctoral thesis, Adriaan de Groot showed that chess masters can rapidly perceive the key features of a position.

According to de Groot, this perception, made possible by years of practice and study, is more important than the sheer ability to anticipate moves.

De Groot showed that chess masters can memorize positions shown for a few seconds almost perfectly.

The ability to memorize does not alone account for chess-playing skill, since masters and novices, when faced with random arrangements of chess pieces, had equivalent recall (about six positions in each case).

Rather, it is the ability to recognize patterns, which are then memorized, which distinguished the skilled players from the novices.

When the positions of the pieces were taken from an actual game, the masters had almost total positional recall.

Above: Adriaan de Groot (1914 – 2006)

More recent research has focused on chess as mental training:

  • the respective roles of knowledge and look-ahead search 
  • brain imaging studies of chess masters and novices
  • blindfold chess
  • the role of personality and intelligence in chess skill
  • gender differences
  • computational models of chess expertise.

The role of practice and talent in the development of chess and other domains of expertise has led to much empirical investigation.

Ericsson and colleagues have argued that deliberate practice is sufficient for reaching high levels of expertise in chess.

Recent research, however, fails to replicate their results and indicates that factors other than practice are also important. 

For example, Fernand Gobet and colleagues have shown that stronger players started playing chess at a young age and that experts born in the Northern Hemisphere are more likely to have been born in late winter and early spring.

Compared to the general population, chess players are more likely to be non-right-handed, though they found no correlation between handedness and skill.

A relationship between chess skill and intelligence has long been discussed in scientific literature as well as in popular culture.

Academic studies that investigate the relationship date back at least to 1927.

Although one meta-analysis and most children studies find a positive correlation between general cognitive ability and chess skill, adult studies show mixed results.

Above: Fernand Gobet

One woman, Judit Polgár (generally considered the strongest female chess player ever), was at one time the 8th highest rated chess player in the world.

She is the only woman to have ever been in the top ten of the world’s chess players.

Above: Judit Polgár

Three women, Maia Chiburdanidze, Polgár, and Hou Yifan, have been ranked in the world’s top 100 players.

Above: Maia Tschiburdanidse

Above: Hou Yifan

Analysis of rating statistics of German players in an article from 2009 by Merim Bilalić, Kieran Smallbone, Peter McLeod, and Fernand Gobet indicated that although the highest-rated men were stronger than the highest-rated women, the difference (usually more than 200 rating points) was largely accounted for by the relatively smaller pool of women players (only one-sixteenth of rated German players were women).

Above: Flag of Germany

In 2020, psychologist and neuroscientist Wei Ji Ma summarized the state of research on women in chess as “there is currently zero evidence for biological differences in chess ability between the genders” but added “that does not mean that there are certainly no such differences“.

Above: Wei Ji Ma

The Queen’s Gambit is a 1983 American novel by Walter Tevis, exploring the life of fictional female chess prodigy Beth Harmon.

Bildungsroman, or coming-of-age story, it covers themes of adoption, feminism, chess, drug addiction and alcoholism.

The book was adapted for the 2020 Netflix miniseries of the same name.

The novel’s epigraph is “The Long-Legged Fly” by W.B. Yeats.

This poem highlights one of the novel’s main concerns: the inner workings of genius in a woman.

Tevis discussed this concern in a 1983 interview, the year before his death.

Above: William Butler Yeats (1865 – 1939)

The Long-Legged Fly

That civilisation may not sink,

Its great battle lost,

Quiet the dog, tether the pony

To a distant post.

Our master Caesar is in the tent

Where the maps are spread,

His eyes fixed upon nothing,

A hand upon his head.

Like a long-legged fly upon the stream

His mind moves upon silence.

That the topless towers be burnt

And men recall that face,

Move most gently if move you must

In this lonely place.

She thinks, part woman, three parts a child,

That nobody looks; her feet

Practise a tinker shuffle

Picked up on the street.

Like a long-legged fly upon the stream

Her mind moves upon silence.

That girls at puberty may find

The first Adam in their thought,

Shut the door of the Pope’s chapel,

Keep those children out.

There on that scaffolding reclines

Michael Angelo.

With no more sound than the mice make

His hand moves to and fro.

Like a long-legged fly upon the stream

His mind moves upon silence.

Let me choose my words carefully henceforth:

Life offers the human being two choices: animal existence – a lower order of life – and spiritual existence.

Some women choose the former.

Men and women have the same intellectual potential.

There is no primary difference in intelligence between the sexes, but potential left to stagnate will atrophy.

Some women do not use their mental capacity.

They deliberately let it disintegrate.

Why do some women not make use of their intellectual potential?

For the simple reason they do not need to.

It is not essential for their survival.

She thinks, part woman, three parts child.”

By the age of 12 at the latest, some women have planned a future for themselves which consists of choosing a man and letting him do all the work.

The moment a woman has made this decision she ceases to develop her mind.

She may, of course, go on to obtain various degrees and diplomas, but these increase her market value in the eyes of men, for men believe that a woman who can recite things by heart must also know and understand them.

And some women do.

But not all women.

Too few women use the time they have gained from labour-saving devices to take an active interest in history, politics or astrophysics, knowledge beyond the status quo of mere survival and propagation of the species.

Instead they take an interest in themselves.

Stupid girl
Stupid girls
Stupid girls

Maybe if I act like that
That guy will call me back
Porno paparazzi girls
I don’t wanna be a stupid girl

Go to Fred Segal, you’ll find them there
Laughing loud, so all the little people stare
Looking for a daddy to pay for the champagne
Droppin’ names

What happened to the dream of a girl president
She’s dancing in the video next to 50 cent
They travel in packs of two and three
With their itsy-bitsy doggies and their teeny-weeny tees

Where, oh where, have the smart people gone?
Oh where, oh where could they be?

Maybe if I act like that
That guy will call me back
Porno paparazzi girls
I don’t wanna be a stupid girl

Baby, if I act like that
Flippin’ my blond hair back
Push up my bra like that
I don’t wanna be a stupid girl

Break it down now

The disease is growing, it’s epidemic
I’m scared that there ain’t a cure
The world believes it, and I’m going crazy
I cannot take anymore

I’m so glad that I’ll never fit in
That will never be me
Outcasts and girls with ambition
That’s what I wanna see (come on)

Disaster’s all around (disaster’s all around)
A world of despair (a world of despair)
Your only concern, “Will it f— up my hair?”

Maybe if I act like that
That guy will call me back
Porno paparazzi girls
I don’t wanna be a stupid girl

Baby, if I act like that
Flippin’ my blond hair back
Push up my bra like that
I don’t wanna be a stupid girl

The feminine claim to beauty is supported by subterfuge, by a trick, to appear as much as a child as possible: appealing eyes, clear and taut skin, a child’s easy laugh, the appearance of helplessness, the need for protection, babbles and exclamations, inane little bursts of commentary, a preservation of a baby look so as to make the world continue to believe in the darling sweetheart girl she once was so as to induce the protective instinct in man to make him take care of her.

Without the longing after intellectual achievements, she concentrates on her external appearance.

So shortsighted, to encourage an ideal of beauty that no woman can hope to maintain beyond the age of 25!

Despite every trick of the cosmetics industry, a case of those who fool being fooled, her actual age will inevitably show through in the end.

Smooth becomes flabby, soft skin turns slack and pallid, the melody of youth becomes shrill, laughter of a lass becomes the bray of an ass.

Too few women make use of their mental processes to develop their own theories.

Too few do independent research in institutes.

Too few read the literature of libraries.

Admire marvellous works of art she might, but she will rarely create, only copy.

Some women lack ambition, desire knowledge or possess the need to prove themselves.

For women have a choice that most men do not – they can develop themselves or instead allow themselves to stagnate.

Some women choose the former, others the latter.

I am not suggesting that women can’t be the equal of men.

I am suggesting that some women, who do have a choice, choose not to be.

The other observation that seems to reoccur time and time again where chess is dealt with in the arts is how depressingly often those who excel at chess seem psychologically “off“.

Sometimes I wonder if only the insane can play chess insanely well.

G. K. Chesterton quipped:

Poets do not go mad, but chess players do.

Above: Gilbert Keith Chesterton (1874 – 1936)

Bobby Fischer claimed:

I give 98% of my mental energy to chess.

Others give only 2%.

He was not only trumpeting his extraordinary dedication but also signaling how little ground he had left for himself in the real world.

After reaching the summit of his obsession, Fischer found nowhere to go but down into his own paranoia.

Above: Bobby Fischer

But as the writer Andrew Anthony observed, Fischer’s “descent into wild and irrational behavior is far from a unique narrative, particularly in chess.

The history of the game contains many similar trajectories.

Above: Andrew Anthony

Perhaps no sport is more dangerous in this way than chess, with so many great players losing their way ––and often their minds –– in their obsessive quest to win.

Albert Einstein observed:

Chess holds its master in its own bonds, shackling the mind and brain so that the inner freedom of the very strongest must suffer.

Above: Albert Einstein (1879 – 1955)

The roster of players who were finally beaten by the sport itself demonstrates just how dangerous a game chess can be.

By the end of his life, Wilhelm Steinitz, once considered the greatest chess player of the 19th century, was telling people how he had played chess with God –– and won.

Steinitz’ story follows a parabola of fame, an arc that took him to the heights of chess notoriety before dropping him into madness.

Born in Prague in 1836, Steinitz moved to Vienna as a young man to study math and, of course, play chess.

He quickly rose through the ranks to become the first undisputed World Chess Champion in 1886, a title he held for the next 8 years.

But Steinitz’ obsession went beyond playing chess.

For decades, he engaged in the “Ink War”, a battle waged from the pages of various periodicals, including the journal he founded, the International Chess Magazine, to shape the future strategy and nature of the game.

After he lost his championship title in 1894, Steinitz traveled to Russia in a bid to reclaim his top position.

But instead of winning, he suffered a mental breakdown in St. Petersburg.

Confined to a Russian sanitarium, Steinitz spent long days of confinement playing chess with any inmate up for a game.

By the turn of the century, his erratic behavior had become even more pronounced, with reports of him talking on wireless telephones and playing chess games with God.

By 1897, Steinitz’ decline was so well known that the New York Times used it to illustrate the perils of chess:

It is not without significance that the death of Steinitz should have been due to mental disorder.

His death seems to be another admonition that ‘serious chess’ is a very serious thing indeed.

Above: Wilhelm Steinitz

Praised by Bobby Fischer as “perhaps the most accurate player who ever lived”, Paul Morphy unfortunately ended up better known for his unhinged behavior than his unparalleled talent.

In 1884, the New York Times’ obituary read:

The Great Chess Player Insane For Nearly A Score of Years

Above: Paul Morphy

Born to a wealthy New Orleans family, Morphy learned the game by watching his uncle and father play.

By age nine, he was a local legend.

At 20, Morphy traveled to New York City, ending up becoming the United States’ first chess champion.

Having conquered America, Morphy sailed to Europe where he quickly become a cultural sensation, winning chess games and being feted in royal courts and fashionable social circles.

In 1859, Morphy returned home an American hero.

Toasting him at a special dinner in Boston, Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes proclaimed:

His youthful triumphs have added a new clause to the declaration of American independence.”

Above: Oliver Wendel Holmes (1809 – 1894)

But soon history turned against Morphy.

The Civil War, which began shortly after his return to New Orleans, curtailed his chess playing and social life.

He tried to carve out a career as a lawyer, but his obsessive talk about chess drove potential clients away.

After the war, Morphy became a local curiosity, wandering the streets of New Orleans, loudly talking to himself or exploding in some persecution rant.

His behavior grew so erratic that friends attempted to commit him to the Louisiana Retreat, a local mental asylum.

Fighting any attempt at institutionalization, Morphy threatened to sue his friends, family and the Catholic Church.

Rumours of his odd behavior persisted until his death at 47, when, according to one legend, he died in his bathtub surround by a circle of women’s shoes.

Above: Paul Morphy

The Polish grandmaster Savielly Tartakower once said that Aron Nimzowitsch “pretends to be crazy in order to drive us all crazy“.

Above: Savielly Tartakower (1887 – 1956)

For the Russian chess champion Nimzowitsch, the line between being and acting crazy was always a bit fuzzy, and, more often than not, worked to his advantage.

During the Russian Revolution, he skipped out on his military duty to the Imperial government by complaining about an invisible fly on his head.

His chess career was also assisted by his occasional bouts of madness.

He famously jumped up on the chessboard after losing a rapid-fire chess game, screaming out:

Why must I lose to this idiot?

At other times, he would get up from a game in order to start doing aerobics or stand on his head, acts which he swore helped him focus his mind.

Less amusing was his unshakable fear about food.

In restaurants and public dinners, Nimzowitsch would loudly complain to everyone within earshot how he was receiving less food than other people.

When waiters scrambled to substitute someone else’s meal, or add more to his plate, he would continue his complaints as if nothing had changed.

Above: Aron Nimzowitsch (1886 – 1935)

Within a few years, Carlos Torre moved from being the hero of the Mexican chess world to an exile in his own country.

Above: Flag of Mexico

At age 20, Torre started to compete seriously, and within two years he had advanced to a position where he was matched up against (and beat) the reigning world champion Emanuel Lasker.

Above: Emanuel Lasker (1868 – 1941)

He had become so well known that made a cameo among other greats in Lev Kuleshov’s 1925 film Chess Fever.

But just as Torre was set up to become a major contender, he fell apart.

In 1926 while in New York City, Torre suffered a mental breakdown that ended with him stripping naked on a Fifth Avenue bus.

After being briefly institutionalized, he returned to his native Mexico, never to play competitively again.

For decades he lived far from the limelight, broke and nearly completely forgotten.

While some chess historians have attributed his breakdown to a recent break up with his fiancé, Torre’s friend and physician, Dr. Carlos Fruvas Gárnica, blamed his demise on the pressures of being a world-class player.

In 1926 there was no Mexican politician, general, or rich retailer, or monopolistic millionaire that did not want that Torre went to its social gatherings,” Gárnica wrote, suspecting that “Torre retired voluntarily from chess not to have to report to that society of crazy people“.

Above: Carlos Torre Repetto (1904 – 1978)

Although the British Grandmaster Gawain Jones considers the Ukrainian player Vassily Mykhaylovych Ivanchuk “possibly the most talented ever“, others have dubbed him the world’s most peculiar player.

Above: Gawain Jones

In 1987, at the age of 18, Ivanchuk won the European Junior Chess Championship.

The next year, he became a Grandmaster and was ranked one of the top 10 players in the world.

At 21, he beat the World Chess Champion Garry Kasparov in a single game.

Above: Garry Kasparov

Yet despite his obvious genius, there was rarely a tournament in which news of Ivanchuk’s latest antics ––from going out late at night to howl at the wind, or staring at the ceiling during a game, or trying fold an oversized winner’s check to fit in his pocket –– wasn’t the fodder of chess gossip.

World Champion Visvanathan Anand excuses the behavior of his friend by reminding everyone that “Chucky” lives on “Planet Ivanchuk“.

Above: Viswanathan Anand

Above: Vassily Ivanchuk

The British magazine Chess singled out Raymond Weinstein in their coverage of the US Championship in 1964 with the following blurb:

“Outside of Fischer, Weinstein was the one person in the tournament with real talent.

There is nothing to stop him going right to the top if he wants to, for Weinstein has a ruthless killer instinct.

As it turned out, the compliment was an unfortunate turn of phrase, since later that year Weinstein was arrested for murder.

The Brooklyn-born chess prodigy had not only been a contemporary of Bobby Fischer but grew up in the same neighborhood, being just two years ahead of him at Erasmus High School.

In competition, Weinstein was unfortunately always a step, or two, behind Fischer.

In 1961, he placed third at the US Championship, with Fischer coming in first.

Before Weinstein could hope to catch up with Fischer, his mind snapped.

At age 22, Weinstein experienced a mental breakdown while in Amsterdam which resulted in him physically assaulting a local chess writer.

Deported back to America, Weinstein ended up in a halfway house where he slit the throat of his 83-year-old roommate.

Deemed incompetent to stand trial, Weinstein was committed to the Kirby Forensic Psychiatric Center near Manhattan, where he lives today.

Above: Raymond Weinstein

When Alexander Pichushkin was arrested in Moscow in 2006 for 49 murders and three attempted murders, he asked the court to add 11 more counts to the charges against him.

His mysterious reason for wanting to raise the tally to 63 became clear when the police found a chessboard at his home with all but one of the squares filled in with the dates of his crimes.

Soon after, the press and public dubbed him “The Chessboard Killer,” and his fondness for chess provided a helpful clue into his particular madness.

While he had murdered his first victim when he was 18, Pichushkin started his killing spree in 2001, five years before he was arrested.

As a supermarket clerk who spent his free time playing chess under the leafy trees of Moscow’s Bitsevsky Park, Pichushkin often invited older homeless men to play chess with him before violently beating them to death with a hammer.

Some forensic psychiatrists imagined a link between these old men and his grandfather, the man who first taught him to play chess and whose death may have been the trauma that push him over the edge.

For others the game of chess itself sheds light on Pichushkin’s sociopathic behavior.

Pichushkin was “detached from human beings,” explained psychoanalyst Tatyana Drusinova.

Human beings were no more than wooden dolls, like chess pieces, to him.

Above: Alexander Pichushkin

A cursory view of the literature wherein chess plays a crucial role in the plot reveals a morass of madness:

Kochanowski’s Chess finds two men fighting over the right to marry a princess, as if their futures hang upon winning her, but the best she can muster as intelligent input is an enigmatic opinion that knights know how to fight, priests are good at giving advice, infantry doesn’t hesitate to walk forward and that it is no loss to change a dear thing for someone beloved.

Beyond her beauty and her dowry I cannot see what benefits she offers the fortunate fellow who wins her as a prize.

Love / lust is its own kind of insanity.

Above: Kochanowski’s Chess

Through the Looking-Glass, and What Alice Found There (also known as Alice Through the Looking-Glass or simply Through the Looking-Glass), the sequel to Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland (1865) is a novel published on 27 December 1871 by Lewis Carroll.

Above: Charles Lutwidge Dodgson (aka Lewis Carroll) (1832 – 1898)

Alice again enters a fantastical world, this time by climbing through a mirror into the world that she can see beyond it.

There she finds that, just like a reflection, everything is reversed, including logic (for example, running helps one remain stationary, walking away from something brings one towards it, chessmen are alive, nursery rhyme characters exist, and so on).

The horror of that moment,” the King went on, “I shall never never forget!

You will, though,” the Queen said, “if you don’t make a memorandum of it.

Above: The Red King

It seems very pretty,’ she said when she had finished it, ‘but it’s rather hard to understand!

(You see she didn’t like to confess, even to herself, that she couldn’t make it out at all.)

Somehow it seems to fill my head with ideas — only I don’t exactly know what they are!

Above: Mia Wasikowska (Alice Kingsleigh), Alice Through the Looking Glass (2016)

Why, sometimes I’ve believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast.

Above: Helena Bonham Carter (The Red Queen), Alice Through the Looking Glass (2016)

“…and he was going on, when his eye happened to fall upon Alice:

He turned round rather instantly, and stood for some time looking at her with an air of the deepest disgust.


What—is—this?” he said at last.


This is a child!” Haigha replied eagerly, coming in front of Alice to introduce her, and spreading out both his hands towards her in an Anglo-Saxon attitude.

We only found it to-day. It’s as large as life, and twice as natural!


I always thought they were fabulous monsters!” said the Unicorn.

Is it alive?


It can talk,” said Haigha, solemnly.


The Unicorn looked dreamily at Alice, and said:

Talk, child.”


Alice could not help her lips curling up into a smile as she began:

Do you know, I always thought Unicorns were fabulous monsters, too!

I never saw one alive before!


Well, now that we have seen each other,” said the Unicorn, “if you’ll believe in me, I’ll believe in you.

Is that a bargain?“”

Above: The Unicorn, Alice, and the Lion

“It is a very inconvenient habit of kittens (Alice had once made the remark) that, whatever you say to them, they always purr.

If they would only purr for “yes” and mew for “no,” or any rule of that sort” she had said, “so that one could keep up a conversation!

But how can you talk with a person if they always say the same thing?“”

Above: Alice with kitten

Children yet, the tale to hear,
Eager eye and willing ear,
Lovingly shall nestle near.

In a Wonderland they lie,
Dreaming as the days go by,
Dreaming as the summers die:

Ever drifting down the stream —
Lingering in the golden gleam —
Life, what is it but a dream?

Madness.

Nabokov’s The Defence‘s main character, Aleksandr Luzhin, suffers from mental problems because of his obsession with chess.

Above: Vladimir Nabokov (1899 – 1977)

Stefan Zweig’s The Royal Game is set on a passenger liner travelling from New York to Buenos Aires.

One of the passengers is a world chess champion, Mirko Czentovic, an idiot savant and prodigy with no obvious qualities apart from his talent for chess.

Another is a lawyer who managed the assets of the Austrian nobility and church, who was arrested by the Gestapo who hoped to extract information from Dr B. in order to steal the assets.

The Gestapo kept Dr B. imprisoned in a hotel, in total isolation, but Dr B. maintained his sanity by stealing a book of past masters’ chess games, which he learned completely.

After absorbing every single move in the book, he began to play against himself, developing the ability to separate his psyche into two personas.

This psychological conflict ultimately caused him to suffer a breakdown, after which he awakened in a hospital.

A sympathetic physician attested his insanity to keep him from being imprisoned again by the Nazis, and he was freed.

In a stunning demonstration of his imaginative and combinational powers, Dr B. beats the world champion.

The champion suggests another game to restore his honour.

Dr B. immediately agrees, but this time, having sensed that Dr B. played quite fast and hardly took time to think, Czentovic tries to irritate his opponent by taking several minutes to make each move, thereby putting psychological pressure on Dr B., who gets more and more impatient as the game proceeds.

His greatest power turns out to be his greatest weakness:

He devolves into rehearsing imagined matches against himself repeatedly and manically.

Czentovic’s slow deliberation drives Dr B. to distraction and ultimately to insanity.

Above: Stefan Zweig (1881 – 1942)

So much of who chess masters are – hinging on the outcome of a game.

John Brunner’s sci-fi novel The Squares of the City is a sociological story of urban class warfare and political intrigue, taking place in the fictional South American capital city of Vados.

It explores the idea of subliminal messages as political tools,

It is notable for having the structure of a famous 1892 chess game between Wilhelm Steinitz and Mikhail Chigorin.

Above: Wilhelm Steinitz

Above: Mikhail Chigorin (1850 – 1908)

The structure is not coincidental and plays an important part in the story.

Above: John Brunner (1934 – 1995)

In Darren Shan’s Lord Loss, Grubitsch “Grubbs” Grady, the younger child of chess-obsessed parents, grows increasingly uneasy with the recent strange, nervous behavior of his parents and sister.

One night, he finds the mutilated bodies of his family and encounters Lord Loss, a gruesome human-like demon who sets his two familiars, Vein and Artery, on Grubbs.

Although Grubbs manages to escape, he is deeply traumatized and is placed in a mental institute.

He refuses to respond to treatment until he is visited by his father’s younger brother, Dervish Grady, who tells Grubbs that he knows demons exist and convinces Grubbs to finally accept help.

The only way to cure him is by winning three out of five simultaneous chess games with the powerfully magical demon master Lord Loss.

While confronting Lord Loss, Dervish is constantly distracted from his chess match.

Dervish is able to convince Lord Loss to let Grubbs finish the chess game.

Grubbs realizes that Lord Loss is feeding on his despair and then decides to play with an aloof attitude.

This throws Lord Loss’ concentration, allowing Grubbs to win the game.

Above: Darren O’Shaughnessy (aka Darren Shan)

Jonathan Lethem’s Dissident Gardens finds Uncle Lenny, who once played Bobby Fischer to a draw as a participant in a simultaneous exhibition in which Fischer defeated everyone else, destroying the chess confidence and ambitions of a young Cicero.

Cicero does so badly that he swears off chess forever.

Above: Jonathan Lethem

Endgame, by Samuel Beckett, is an absurdist, tragicomic one act play about a blind, paralyzed, domineering elderly man, his geriatric parents and his doddering, dithering, harried, servile companion in an abandoned shack in a post-apocalyptic wasteland who mention their awaiting some unspecified “end” which seems to be the end of their relationship, death, and the end of the actual play itself.

Much of the play’s content consists of terse, back and forth dialogue between the characters reminiscent of bantering, along with trivial stage actions.

The plot is held together by the development of a grotesque story-within-a-story the character Hamm is writing.

The play’s title refers to chess and frames the characters as acting out a losing battle with each other or their fate.

Endgame is an expression of existential angst and despair and depicts Beckett’s philosophical worldview, namely the extreme futility of human life and the inescapable dissatisfaction and decay intrinsic to it.

The existential feelings buried in the work achieve their most vocal moments in lines such as:

It will be the end and there I’ll be, wondering what can have brought it on and wondering why it was so long coming.

Infinite emptiness will be all around you, all the resurrected dead of all the ages wouldn’t fill it, and there you’ll be like a little bit of grit in the middle of the steppe.“

In both Hamm seems to contemplate the sense of dread awakened by the obliterating force of death.

Endgame is also a quintessential work of what Beckett called “tragicomedy”, or the idea that, as Nell herself in the play puts it:

Nothing is funnier than unhappiness.”

Another way to think about this is that things which are absurd can be encountered both as funny in some contexts and horrifyingly incomprehensible in others.

Beckett’s work combines these two responses in his vast artistic vision of depicting not a segment of lived experience but the very philosophical nature of life itself, in the grandest view, as the central subject material of the play.

To Beckett – due to his existential worldview – life itself is absurd, and this incurs reactions of both black mirth and profound despair.

To Beckett, these emotions are deeply related, and this is evident in the many witty yet dark rejoinders in the play, such as Hamm’s comment in his story, “You’re on Earth, there’s no cure for that!”, which both implies in a melodramatic fashion that being born is a curse, but sounds perhaps like a biting, bar-talk joke, such as telling someone “You’re Irish, there’s no cure for that!

Above: Flag of Ireland

Much of Beckett’s core thought which is expanded on in Endgame is in his critical analysis of Marcel Proust, entitled “Proust”.

Above: Marcel Proust (1871 – 1922)

In it, he explains his Schopenhauerian view of the human will endlessly chasing after momentary satisfaction that it can rarely if ever constantly attain, which lies behind the image of “grain upon grain” (moments in life and time) never amounting to “the impossible heap” (some fixed, non-transient accumulation or deposition of enduring value, in time).

Above: Arthur Schopenhauer (1788 – 1860)

Themes in Endgame include:

  • decay
  • insatiability and dissatisfaction
  • pain
  • monotony
  • absurdity
  • humour
  • horror
  • meaninglessness
  • nothingness
  • existentialism
  • nonsense
  • solipsism
  • people’s inability to relate to or find completion in one another
  • narrative or story-telling
  • family relations
  • nature
  • destruction
  • abandonment
  • sorrow

Endgame is lurching, starting and stopping, rambling, unbearably impatient, and sometimes incoherent.

Much the way I attempt to play chess.

In fact, it almost seems like a parody of writing itself.

Beckett’s eerie, weird stories about people at their last gasp often doing or seeking something futile somehow seems to return again and again as central to his art.

It could be taken to represent the inanity of existence, but it also seems to hint at mocking not only life but storytelling itself, inverting and negating the literary craft with stories that are idiotically written, anything from poorly to put-on and overwrought.

The characters recurrently hint that they are aware they are characters in a play.

Above: Samuel Beckett

Tomorrow, and tomorrow, and tomorrow,

Creeps in this petty pace from day to day,

To the last syllable of recorded time;

And all our yesterdays have lighted fools

The way to dusty death. Out, out, brief candle!

Life’s but a walking shadow, a poor player,

That struts and frets his hour upon the stage,

And then is heard no more. It is a tale

Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,

Signifying nothing.

Chess is a thinking game, a cerebral drinking game, a parody of life wherein life is imitated while movements are initiated.

Life is not black and white as the layout of a chessboard.

People do not move in particular patterns or predictable potentialities.

So much time invested in analyzing the movement of “men” on a board while time slips beyond our grasp and once lost is never regained.

Some say that chess is a sport and I agree with that analogy.

Proficiency requires practice.

Those that merely view invest time and emotion to an outcome they neither affect nor benefit from.

Chess is a musical with music by Benny Andersson and Björn Ulvaeus of the pop group ABBA, lyrics by Ulvaeus and Tim Rice, and the book by Rice.

Above: ABBA – Benny Andersson, Anni-Frid Lyngstad (Frida), Agnetha Fältskog, and Björn Ulvaeus

Above: Tim Rice

The story involves a politically driven, Cold War-era chess tournament between two Grandmasters, one American and the other Soviet, and their fight over a woman who manages one and falls in love with the other.

Although the protagonists were not intended to represent any real individuals, the character of the American grandmaster (named Freddie Trumper in the stage version) was loosely based on Bobby Fischer, while elements of the story may have been inspired by the chess careers of Russian Grandmasters Viktor Korchnoi and Anatoly Karpov.

Chess allegorically reflected the Cold War tensions present in the 1980s.

The musical has been referred to as a metaphor for the whole Cold War, with the insinuation being made that the Cold War is itself a manipulative game. 

Released and staged at the height of the strong anti-communist agenda that came to be known as the “Reagan Doctrine“, Chess addressed and satirized the hostility of the international political atmosphere of the 1980s.

Above: Ronald Reagan (1911 – 2004)

One Night in Bangkok” is a song from the concept album and subsequent musical Chess.

British actor and singer Murray Head raps the verses, while the chorus is sung by Anders Glenmark, a Swedish singer, songwriter and producer.

The release topped the charts in many countries, including South Africa, West Germany, Switzerland, Denmark and Australia.

It peaked at #3 in both Canada and the US, at #12 in the United Kingdom.

The main song has a pop styling, whose lyrics describe the Thai capital city and its nightlife in the context of a chess match.

Above: Images of Bangkok, Thailand

The verses ridicule the city, describing its attractions — the red light district (Soi Cowboy), Chao Phraya River (muddy old river), Wat Pho (reclining Buddha) — as less interesting than a game of chess.

Above: Soi Cowboy district, Bangkok

Above: Chao Phraya River in Bangkok

Above: Reclining Buddha of Wat Pho Temple, Bangkok

These sarcastic denunciations led to Thailand’s Mass Communications Organisation issuing a ban on the song in 1985, saying its lyrics “cause misunderstanding about Thai society and show disrespect towards Buddhism“.

Above: Flag of Thailand

The lyrics mention actor Yul Brynner, about six months before his death, who had played the King of Siam in the Broadway musical and the 1956 film The King and I (also banned in Thailand).

Above: Yul Brynner (1920 – 1985)

Other Thai-related references in the lyrics include ones to Thailand’s former name (“Siam“), kathoeys (transgender women)  (“You’ll find a god in every golden cloister — And if you’re lucky then the god’s a she“), and the Oriental Hotel (girls “are set up in the Somerset Maugham suite“, to which the verse replies “I get my kicks above the waistline, sunshine“).

Above: Kathoys on stage, Bangkok

Above: Oriental Hotel, Bangkok

Above: Somerset Maugham (1874 – 1965)

Above: Somerset Maugham Suite, Oriental Hotel, Bangkok

The “Tyrolean spa” mentioned early in the song refers to Merano in the South Tyrol region of Italy, the site of Act 1 of the musical.

Above: Meran / Merano, South Tyrol, Italy

It also mentions three places where chess tournaments were previously held: Iceland, the Philippines, and Hastings (England).

(The World Chess Championship was a match between US challenger Bobby Fischer and Soviet defending champion Boris Spassky, in the Laugardalshöll arena in Reykjavik, Iceland (dubbed the Match of the Century) (11 July to 31 August 1972).

Above: Images of Reykjavik, Iceland

The World Chess Championships was played between Anatoly Karpov and Viktor Korchnoi in Baguio, Philippines (18 July to 18 October 1978).

Above: Baguio, Philippines

The Hastings International Chess Congress is an annual chess tournament around the turn of the year.) 

Above: Hastings, England

Bangkok, Oriental setting
And the city don’t know that the city is getting
The creme de la creme of the chess world in a
Show with everything but Yul Brynner

Time flies doesn’t seem a minute
Since the Tirolean spa had the chess boys in it
All change, don’t you know that when you
Play at this level there’s no ordinary venue

It’s Iceland or the Philippines or Hastings or
this place!

Above: Murray Head, One Night in Bangkok video (1984)

One night in Bangkok and the world’s your oyster
The bars are temples, but the pearls ain’t free
You’ll find a god in every golden cloister
And if you’re lucky then the god’s a she
I can feel an angel sliding up to me

One town’s very like another
When your head’s down over your pieces, brother

It’s a drag, it’s a bore, it’s really such a pity
To be looking at the board, not looking at the city

Wait a minute!

Ya seen one crowded, polluted, stinking town…..

Tea, girls, warm, sweet
Some are set up in the Somerset Maugham suite

Get Thai’d! You’re talking to a tourist
Whose every move’s among the purest
I get my kicks above the waistline, sunshine

One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble
Not much between despair and ecstasy
One night in Bangkok and the tough guys tumble
Can’t be too careful with your company
I can feel the devil walking next to me

Siam’s gonna be the witness
To the ultimate test of cerebral fitness
This grips me more than would a
Muddy old river or reclining Buddha

Thank God, I’m only watching the game, controlling it

I don’t see you guys rating
The kind of mate I’m contemplating
I’d let you watch, I would invite you
But the queens we use would not excite you

So you better go back to your bars, your temples, your massage
parlours

One night in Bangkok and the world’s your oyster
The bars are temples, but the pearls ain’t free
You’ll find a god in every golden cloister
A little flesh, a little history,
I can feel an angel sliding up to me

One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble
Not much between despair and ecstasy
One night in Bangkok and the tough guys tumble
Can’t be too careful with your company
I can feel the devil walking next to me

Chess is a show, is showmanship, mind versus mind in a mindless spectacle.

Chess is a distraction from life, considered superior because it is more cerebral than reality or pleasures distinct from ordinary life.

Life, chess, are we really watching it, controlling it?

Or are we merely reacting to the movements around us?

Must life, chess, be little between despair and ecstasy?

Are the angels sliding up to me truly what they seem?

Can’t be too careful in your company.

Are we all mere players on the chessboard of life?

Or is there life beyond the game?

It’s your move.

Above: Bobby Fischer

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Peter Brown, “The Most Dangerous Game“, http://www.bleeckerstreetmedia.com / Kellen Browning, “Chess is now a streaming obsession“, New York Times, 7 September 2020 / Lewis Carroll, Alice Through the Looking Glass / Alina Cohen, “Why Marcel Duchamp played chess with a naked Eve Babitz“, 17 May 2019, http://www.artsy.net

Canada Slim and the Golden Fleece

Eskişehir, Turkey, Sunday 15 May 2022

Thursday and I was once again back on the road to Denizli.

Once again the bus stopped at Kütahya and Afyonkarahisar, Dinar and Dazkiri, with a rare request stop today at Sandikli, before finally arriving at Denizli en route to the bus’s final destinations of Aydin and Bodrum.

The return trip the next day did not vary either:

As usual, there are stops in Uşak and Kütahya before the return back to Eskişehir.

Another week means another day spent in the textile factories of Denizli.

Above: View of Denizli from above

Denizli is an industrial city in the southwestern part of Turkey and the eastern end of the alluvial valley formed by the river Büyük Menderes, where the plain reaches an elevation of about 350 metres (1,148 ft).

The Büyük Menderes River (historically the Maeander or Meander, from Ancient Greek: Μαίανδρος, Maíandros / Turkish: Büyük Menderes Irmağı) rises in west central Turkey near Dinar before flowing west through the Büyük Menderes graben (fault formations) until reaching the Aegean Sea in the proximity of the ancient Ionain city of Miletus.

Above: Hancalar Bridge, Menderes River, Çal, Denizli Province

The word “meander” is used to describe a winding pattern, after the River.

Above: The Great Mederes River

The Büyük Menderes basin in Turkey has five wetlands and the Büyük Menderes river delta is an internationally recognised Important Bird and Biodiversity Area (IBA) for breeding and wintering water birds.

The cities Denizli and Uşak in the area are home to 60% of Turkey’s textile and leather exports.

The Büyük Menderes River contains domestic wastewater originating from settlements and industrial wastewater from industrial establishments.

It is polluted by the effects of excessive, untimely and incorrect use of fertilizers and pesticides. 

From a bird’s eye view of the basin, it is seen that the inadequacy of land use designs, the ruthless destruction of soil and biodiversity with chemicals as a result of too much production, the increase in population and the deterioration of the life balance. 

The discharge of technological, domestic and urban wastes into Büyük Menderes, which continues its function as a waste receiver and transporter environment, has resulted in the deterioration of the ecological balance formed over millions of years in only a few decades. 

In Denizli, Usak and Aydin, there are 20 types of industrial establishments that drain their wastewater into the Büyük Menderes river without treatment. 

According to the DSI basin statistics, the number of municipalities in the Büyük Menderes River Basin is given as 165. 

Only six of them have sewerage networks. 

In the lower basins, the pollution is getting more intense and the river ecosystem is about to disappear.

The region is under threat as the river delta has reached critical pollution levels.

Above: The Great Menderes River

From the food we eat to the fibres we wear, every living thing relies on water.

Climate change, population growth and changing consumption patterns have put fresh water systems at greater risk.

For this reason, the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) has developed a joint project with government, businesses and communities to ensure a sustainable future for the beautiful Büyük Menderes region.

Through the implementation of water stewardship this programme aims to serve as a model in the conservation and sustainable use of water resources that can be scaled up to other basins in Turkey.” World Wildlife Fund for Nature

Denizli is located in the country’s Aegean region.

The city has a population of about 646,278 (2018 census).

This is a jump from 389,000 in 2007, due to the merger of 13 municipalities and 10 villages when the area under Denizli Municipality jurisdiction increased almost fivefold and the population around 50%.

Denizli (Municipality) is the capital city of Denizli Province.

Denizli has seen economic development in the last few decades, mostly due to textile production and exports.

Above: Denizli city emblem

Denizli, an industrial, export and trade centre, is also home to nearly 65,000 university students. 

The literacy rate in Denizli is around 99%. 

As a result of the high importance given to education in the Province, it has a permanent place in the interprovincial success ranking especially in secondary education and university entrance exams such as ÖSS, LGS, SBS, being in the first three places (mostly 1st place) every year. 

For this reason, Denizli Province has an image that is known throughout the country for its high education level and quality, and its successful students. 

In addition, Pamukkale University, established on 3 July 1992, brought a different socio-economic and cultural dynamism and vitality to Denizli.

Above: Logo of Pamukkale University

Hosting millions of local and foreign tourists a year, Denizli is not only a tourism city, but also an education, congress, cultural and artistic centre with local, national and international events.

Denizli attracts visitors to the nearby mineral-coated hillside hot spring of Pamukkale and red thermal water spa hotels of Karahayit just 5 kilometres (3 miles) north of Pamukkale.

Above: Pamukkale

Above: Karahayit

Recently, Denizli became a major domestic tourism destination due to the various types of thermal waters in Sarayköy, Central/Denizli (where Karahayıt and Pamukkale towns are located), Akköy (Gölemezli), Buldan (Yenicekent) and Çardak districts.

Above: Saraköy

Above: Akköy

Above: Buldan

Above: Çardak

The ancient ruined city of Hierapolis, as well as ruins of the city of Laodicea on the Lycus, the ancient metropolis of Phrygia.

Above: Hierapolis

Above: Laodicea on the Lycus

Also Honaz, about 10 mi (16 km) west of Denizli, was in the 1st century CE the city of Colossae.

Above: Colossae

Denizli is a new city, located on the northern slopes of Akdağ (Babadağ), on a plateau slightly split by the streams that meet the Aksu Stream, a tributary of Büyük Menderes.

The main city of the province was Laodicea, seven kilometers north from here.

Laodicea (Laodikeia), devastated as a result of the wars between the Seljuks and Byzantines and with its waterways deteriorated, started to be abandoned and settlement started from the 11th century to move towards Denizli, where there are abundant water resources. 

Ibn Battuta visited the city, noting that:

In it there are seven mosques for the observance of Friday prayers, and it has splendid gardens, perennial streams, and gushing springs.

Most of the artisans there are Greek women, for in it are many Greeks who are subject to the Muslims and who pay dues to the sultan, including the jizyah and other taxes.

Above: Ibn Battuta (1304 – 1369)

In the 17th century, the Turkish traveler Evliya Çelebi visited Denizli and recorded the town as follows:

The city is called by Turks Denizli (which means has abundant of water sources like sea in Turkish) as there are several rivers and lakes around it.

In fact it is a four-day trip from the sea.

Its fortress is a square shape built on flat ground.

It has no ditches.

Its periphery is 470 steps long.

It has four gates.

These are:

  • the Painter’s Gate in the north
  • the Saddlemaker’s Gate in the east
  • the new Mosque Gate in the south
  • the Vineyard Gate in the west.

There are some 50 armed watchmen in the fortress and they attend the shops.

The main city is outside the fortress with 44 districts and 3,600 houses.

There are 57 small and large mosques and district masjids, seven madrashas, seven children’s schools, six baths and 17 dervish lodges.

As everybody lives in vineyards the upper classes and ordinary people do not flee from each other.”

Above: Statue of Evliya Çelebi (1611 – 1682)

Denizli suffered great damage during the earthquake of 1703 and was later rebuilt. 

Denizli, located on a natural road that enters the interior from the Aegean coasts, became rapidly crowded as a result of the development of this location and the agricultural activities around it, especially after the improvement of the highways in the 1950s.

Its population, which was 22,000 in 1950, has increased approximately 25 times in the past 60 years. 

Above: Denizli Museum

Denizli is now one of the most developed cities of Turkey. 

It is among the most important capitals of textile in the world. 

It has a good reputation in the US and the European Union markets for towels, bathrobes and home textiles. 

In addition, Serinhisar District meets 85% of Turkey’s need for chickpeas and chickpea products. 

Denizli is among Turkey’s ten largest economies. 

Its weather and nature reflect the averages of the Aegean region.

The weather is hot in Denizli in summers, whereas in winters, it may occasionally be very cold with snow on the mountains that surround the city.

Some years, snow can be observed in the urban areas.

Springs and autumns are rainy, mild climate, warm.

The vegetation of Denizli is maquis (small shrubs). 

59% of Denizli is covered with forests, 10% is meadows and pastures, 43% is cultivated and planted land. 

The part that is not suitable for cultivation is only 1%.

The vegetation of the Province is mostly composed of forest trees and maquis unique to the Mediterranean climate. 

There are tree species such as larch, red pine, cedar, juniper, oak, chestnut, plane tree, ash, alder (Paint tree), log in the forests. 

The wide areas on the foothills below the borders where the forests begin are covered with bushes and heaths.

I can often see part of these forests from my room in the Hotel Park Dedeman.

The economy of Denizli is based on industry and trade. 

Denizli is an export and industrial city. 

Its service sector is also highly developed and has grown tremendously in the last 15 years. 

Denizli has also exported copper wire to the US.

45% of the population is engaged in agriculture, fishing, beekeeping, forestry and animal husbandry. 

30% of all income comes from industry. 

Denizli is one of the leading exporting cities known as “Anatolian Tigers” in Turkey. 

It is one of Turkey’s locomotive industrial cities with billions of dollars in exports every year.

 

Although Denizli is known as the capital of textile in Turkey, due to the economic losses experienced in textile in recent years, the economic balances have shifted to the marble and natural stone sector. 

Travertine and its derivatives marble and natural stone are exported from Denizli to all countries of the world.

Industry in Denizli is highly developed.

Weaving, energy, automotive sub-industry, mining and metal industries are at the forefront.

Above: Denizli travertine

textile is a flexible material made by creating an interlocking bundle of yarns or threads, which are produced by spinning raw fibers (from either natural or synthetic sources) into long and twisted lengths.

Textiles are then formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, tatting, felting, bonding or braiding these yarns together.

The related words “fabric” and “cloth” and “material” are often used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile.

However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage.

A textile is any material made of interlacing fibers, including carpeting and geotextiles, which may not necessarily be used in the production of further goods, such as clothing and upholstery.

The word ‘textile‘ comes from the Latin adjective textilis, meaning ‘woven‘, which itself stems from textus, the past participle of the verb texere, ‘to weave‘.

Originally applied to woven fabrics, the term “textiles” is now used to encompass a diverse range of materials, including fibres, yarns and fabrics, as well as other related items.

fabric is a material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, felting, stitching, crocheting or bonding that may be used in the production of further products, such as clothing and upholstery, thus requiring a further step of the production. 

The word ‘fabric‘ also derives from Latin, with roots in the Proto-Indo-European language.

Stemming most recently from the Middle French fabrique, (‘building or thing made‘), and earlier from the Latin fabrica (‘workshop; an art, trade; a skillful production, structure, fabric‘), the noun fabrica stems from the Latin faber, (‘artisan who works in hard materials‘), which itself is derived from the Proto-Indo-European dhabh, meaning ‘to fit together‘.

Cloth may also be used synonymously with fabric, but often specifically refers to a piece of fabric that has been processed or cut.

The word ‘cloth‘ derives from the Old English clað, meaning a ‘cloth, woven or felted material to wrap around ones body‘, from the Proto-Germanic kalithaz, similar to the Old Frisian klath, the Middle Dutch cleet, the Middle High German kleit and the German kleid, all meaning ‘garment‘.

The precursor of today’s textiles includes leaves, barks, fur pelts, and felted cloths.

The Banton Burial Cloth, the oldest existing example of warp ikat in Southeast Asia, is displayed at the National Museum of the Philippines.

The cloth was most likely made by the native Asian people of the northwest Romblon.

Above: Remnants of the Banton Burial Cloth

Above: Logo of the National Museum of the Philippines

The first clothes, worn at least 70,000 years ago and perhaps much earlier, were probably made of animal skins and helped protect early humans from the elements. At some point, people learned to weave plant fibers into textiles.

The discovery of dyed flax fibers in a cave in the Republic of Georgia dated to 34,000 BCE suggests that textile-like materials were made as early as the Paleolithic era.

The speed and scale of textile production have been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern manufacturing techniques.

Above: Flag of the Republic of Georgia

Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and for containers, such as bags and baskets.

In the household, textiles are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels, coverings for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in art.

In the workplace, textiles can be used in industrial and scientific processes, such as filtering.

Miscellaneous uses include flags, backpacks, tents, nets, handkerchiefs, cleaning rags, and transportation devices, such as balloons, kites, sails and parachutes.

Textiles are also used to provide strengthening in composite materials such as fibreglass and industrial geotextiles.

Textiles are used in many traditional hand crafts, such as sewing, guilting and embroidery.

Textiles produced for industrial purposes, and designed and chosen for technical characteristics beyond their appearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles. 

Technical textiles include:

  • textile structures for automotive applications
  • medical textiles (such as implants)
  • geotextile (reinforcement of embankments)
  • agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection)
  • protective clothing (such as clothing resistant to heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests).

Due to the often highly technical and legal requirements of these products, these textiles are typically tested in order to ensure they meet stringent performance requirements.

Other forms of technical textiles may be produced to experiment with their scientific qualities and to explore the possible benefits they may have in the future.

Threads coated with zinc oxide nanowires, when woven into fabric, have been shown capable of “self-powering nanosystems“, using vibrations created by everyday actions like wind or body movements to generate energy.

Above: Textile market, Karachi, Pakistan

Textiles are made from many materials, with four main sources:

  • animal (wool, silk)
  • plant (cotton, flax, jute, bamboo)
  • mineral (asbestos, glass fibre)
  • synthetic (nylon, polyester, acrylic, rayon).

The first three are natural.

In the 20th century, they were supplemented by artificial fibers made from petroleum.

Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest microfibre made of strands thinner than one denier to the sturdiest canvas. 

Textile manufacturing terminology has a wealth of descriptive terms, from light gauze-like gossamer to heavy grosgrain cloth and beyond.

Above: Fabric shop, Mukalia, Yemen



Animal textiles are commonly made from hair, fur, skin or silk (in the case of silkworms).

  • Wool refers to the hair of the domestic sheep or goat, which is distinguished from other types of animal hair in that the individual strands are coated with scales and tightly crimped.

Wool as a whole is coated with a wax mixture known as lanolin (sometimes called wool grease), which is waterproof and dirtproof.

The lanolin and other contaminants are removed from the raw wool before further processing.

Woolen refers to a yarn produced from carded, non-parallel fibre, while worsted refers to a finer yarn spun from longer fibers which have been combed to be parallel.

  • Other animal textiles which are made from hair or fur are alpaca wool, vicuna woolllama wool, and camel hair, generally used in the production of coats, jackets, ponchos, blankets and other warm coverings.
  • Cashmere, the hair of the Indian cashmere goat, and mohair, the hair of the North African angora goat, are types of wool known for their softness and are used in the production of sweaters and scarfs.
  • Angora refers to the long, thick, soft hair of the angora rabbit. 
  • Qiviut is the fine inner wool of the muskox.

Above: Alpaca wool textiles, Otavalo Artisan Market, Ecuador

Wool is produced by follicles which are small cells located in the skin.

These follicles are located in the upper layer of the skin (called the epidermis) and push down into the second skin layer (called the dermis) as the wool fibers grow.

Follicles can be classed as either primary or secondary follicles.

Primary follicles produce three types of fiber:

  • kemp
  • medullated fibers
  • true wool fibers.

Secondary follicles only produce true wool fibers.

Medullated fibers share nearly identical characteristics to hair and are long but lack crimp and elasticity.

Kemp fibers are very coarse and shed out.

Above: Wool before processing

Wool’s crimp and, to a lesser degree, scales, make it easier to spin the fleece by helping the individual fibers attach to each other, so they stay together.

Because of the crimp, wool fabrics have greater bulk than other textiles.

They hold air, which causes the fabric to retain heat.

Wool has a high specific thermal resistance, so it impedes heat transfer in general.

This effect has benefited desert peoples, such as the Bedouins and Tuaregs, who use wool clothes for insulation.

Felting of wool occurs upon hammering or other mechanical agitation as the microscopic barbs on the surface of wool fibers hook together.

Felting generally comes under two main areas: dry felting or wet felting.

Wet felting occurs when water and a lubricant (especially an alkali such as soap) are applied to the wool which is then agitated until the fibers mix and bond together.

Temperature shock while damp or wet accentuates the felting process.

Some natural felting can occur on the animal’s back.

Above: Wool samples

Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from hair/fur:

It is crimped and elastic.

The amount of crimp corresponds to the fineness of the wool fibers.

A fine wool, like merino, may have up to 40 crimps per centimetre (100 crimps per inch), while coarser wool, like karakul, may have less than one crimp per centimeter (one or two crimps per inch).

In contrast, hair has little, if any, scale, and no crimp, and little ability to bind into yarn.

Above: Unshorn Merino sheep

On sheep, the hair part of the fleece is called kemp.

The relative amounts of kemp to wool vary from breed to breed and make some fleeces more desirable for spinning, felting or carding into batts for quilts or other insulating products, including the famous tweed cloth of Scotland.

Wool fibers readily absorb moisture, but are not hollow.

Wool can absorb almost one-third of its own weight in water.

Wool absorbs sound like many other fabrics.

It is generally a creamy white color, although some breeds of sheep produce natural colors, such as black, brown, silver, and random mixes.

Above: Wool samples, Auction House, Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia

Wool ignites at a higher temperature than cotton and some synthetic fibers.

It has a lower rate of flame spread, a lower rate of heat release, a lower heat of combustion, and does not melt or drip. 

It forms a char that is insulating and self-extinguishing, and it contributes less to toxic gases and smoke than other flooring products when used in carpets.

Wool carpets are specified for high safety environments, such as trains and aircraft.

Wool is usually specified for garments for firefighters, soldiers, and others in occupations where they are exposed to the likelihood of fire.

Above: Fleece of fine New Zealand Merino wool and combed wool top on a wool table

Wool causes an allergic reaction in some people.

Above: Johnny Galecki (Leonard Hofstadter), The Big Bang Theory

Animal breeding has been an important part of human life throughout history and has provided great benefits.

The aim of animal breeding is to conduct profitable breeding by raising high-yielding and healthy animals.

The elements that determine the profitability of animal breeding are breed of the animals raised, breeding techniques and market conditions.

On a good day, outside of Dinar or Uşak I sometimes see flocks of sheep.

Suddenly it is a timeless moment.

Sheep have had a strong presence in many cultures, especially in areas where they form the most common type of livestock.

In the English language, to call someone a sheep or ovine may allude that they are timid and easily led.

In contradiction to this image, male sheep are often used as symbols of virility and power; the logos of the Los Angeles Rams football team and the Dodge Ram pickup truck allude to males of the bighorn sheep, Ovis canadensis.

Above: Uniforms of the Los Angeles Rams National Football League (NFL) team

Above: Bighorn ram

Counting sheep is popularly said to be an aid to sleep.

Some ancient systems of counting sheep persist today.

Sheep also enter in colloquial sayings and idiom frequently with such phrases as “black sheep“.

To call an individual a black sheep implies that they are an odd or disreputable member of a group.

This usage derives from the recessive trait that causes an occasional black lamb to be born into an entirely white flock.

These black sheep were considered undesirable by shepherds, as black wool is not as commercially viable as white wool.

Citizens who accept overbearing governments have been referred to by the portmanteau neologism of sheeple.

(Sheeple is a derogatory term that highlights the passive herd behavior of people easily controlled by a governing power or market fads which likens them to sheep, a herd animal that is “easily” led about.

The term is used to describe those who voluntarily acquiesce to a suggestion without any significant critical analysis or research, in large part due to the majority of a population having a similar mindset.

Above: Donald Trump

Word Spy defines it as “people who are meek, easily persuaded, and tend to follow the crowd (sheep + people)“.

Merriam-Webster defines the term as “people who are docile, compliant, or easily influenced: people likened to sheep“.

The word is pluralia tantum, which means it does not have a singular form.

While its origins are unclear, the word was used by W. R. Anderson in his column Round About Radio, published in London 1945, where he wrote:

The simple truth is that you can get away with anything, in government.

That covers almost all the evils of the time.

Once in, nobody, apparently, can turn you out.

The People, as ever (I spell it “Sheeple”), will stand anything.

Above: Logo of Turkey’s reigning government party, the Justice and Development Party (AKP)

Another early use was from Ernest Rogers, whose 1949 book The Old Hokum Bucket contained a chapter entitled “We the Sheeple“.

The Wall Street Journal first reported the label in print in 1984.

The reporter heard the word used by the proprietor of the American Opinion bookstore.

In this usage, taxpayers were derided for their blind conformity as opposed to those who thought independently.

The term was first popularized in the late 1980s and early 1990s by conspiracy theorist and broadcaster Bill Cooper on his radio program The Hour of the Time which was broadcast internationally via shortwave radio stations.

The program gained a small, yet dedicated following, inspiring many individuals who would later broadcast their own radio programs critical of the United States government.

Above: Bill Cooper (1943 – 2001)

This then led to its regular use on the radio program Coast to Coast AM by Art Bell throughout the 1990s and early 2000s.

These combined factors significantly increased the popularity of the word and led to its widespread use.

Above: Art Bell (1945 – 2018)

The term can also be used for those who seem inordinately tolerant, or welcoming, of widespread policies.

In a column entitled “A Nation of Sheeple“, columnist Walter E. Williams writes:

Above: Walter E. Williams (1936 – 2020)

Americans sheepishly accepted all sorts of Transportation Security Administration nonsense.

In the name of security, we’ve allowed fingernail clippers, eyeglass screwdrivers, and toy soldiers to be taken from us prior to boarding a plane.“)

Somewhat differently, the adjective “sheepish” is also used to describe embarrassment.

In antiquity, symbolism involving sheep cropped up in religions in the ancient Near East, the Middle East, and the Mediterranean area: Çatalhöyük, ancient Egyptian religion, Canaanite and Phoenician traditions, Judaism, Greek religion, and others.

Religious symbolism and ritual involving sheep began with some of the first known faiths:

Skulls of rams (along with bulls) occupied central placement in shrines at the Çatalhöyük settlement in 8,000 BCE.

Above: Ruins of Çatalhöyük, Konya Plain, Turkey

In ancient Egyptian religion, the ram was the symbol of several gods: Khnum, Heryshaf and Amun (in his incarnation as a god of fertility).

Above: Pyramids of Giza, Cairo, Egypt

Other deities occasionally shown with ram features include the goddess Ishtar, the Phoenician god Baal-Hamon, and the Babylonian god Ea-Oannes.

Above: Goddess Ishtar on an Akkadian seal

In Madagascar, sheep were not eaten as they were believed to be incarnations of the souls of ancestors.

Above: Flag of Madagascar

There are many ancient Greek references to sheep: that of Chrysomallos, the golden-fleeced ram, continuing to be told through into the modern era. 

Astrologically, Aries, the ram, is the first sign of the classical Greek zodiac.

The sheep is the eighth of the twelve animals associated with the 12-year cycle of in the Chinese zodiac, related to the Chinese calendar.

In Mongolia, shagai are an ancient form of dice made from the cuboid bones of sheep that are often used for fortunetelling purposes.

Above: Flag of Mongolia

Above: Shagai

Sheep play an important role in all the Abrahamic faiths: 

Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, Moses, King David and the Islamic prophet Muhammad were once all shepherds.

Above: Guercino’s Abraham (2150 – 1975 BCE), Banishment of Hagar and Ismael, 1657

Above: (right foreground) Isaac

Above: Rembrandt’s Jacob wrestling with the angel, 1659

Above: Guido Reni’s Moses with the Tables of the Law, 1624

Above: Gerard von Horst’s King David (r. 1010 – 970 BCE) playing the harp, 1622







Above: “Muhammad, the Messenger of God“, inscribed on the gates of the Prophet’s Mosque, Medina, Saudi Arabia

According to the Biblical story of the Binding of Isaac, a ram is sacrificed as a substitute for Isaac after an angel stays Abraham’s hand.

Above: Caravaggio’s Sacrifice of Isaac, 1603

(In the Islamic tradition, Abraham was about to sacrifice Ishmael). 

Above: Ibrahim’s Sacrifice, Timurid Anthology, 1411

Eid al-Adha is a major annual festival in Islam in which sheep (or other animals) are sacrificed in remembrance of this act.

Sheep are occasionally sacrificed to commemorate important secular events in Islamic cultures.

Above: Eid prayer, Badshahi Mosque, Lahore, Pakistan

Greeks and Romans sacrificed sheep regularly in religious practice.

Judaism once sacrificed sheep as a Korban (sacrifice), such as the Passover lamb.

Above: Practice of Passover sacrifice by Temple Mount activists, Jerusalem, Israel, 2012

Ovine symbols — such as the ceremonial blowing of a shofar — still find a presence in modern Judaic traditions.

Above: Shofar

Collectively, followers of Christianity are often referred to as a flock, with Christ as the Good Shepherd.

Above: Bernhard Plockhurst’s The good shepherd

Sheep are an element in the Christian iconography of the birth of Jesus.

Above: Giotto’s Birth of Jesus, Scrovegni Chapel, Padua, Italy

Some Christian saints are considered patrons of shepherds, and even of sheep themselves.

Above: Statue of Saint Drogo of Sebourg (1105 – 1186), Église de Saint-Droun de Sebourg, France

Christ is also portrayed as the sacrificial lamb of God (Agnus Dei).

Easter celebrations in Greece and Romania traditionally feature a meal of Paschal lamb.

Above: Flag of Greece

Above: Flag of Romania

A church leader is often called the pastor, which is derived from the Latin word for shepherd.

In many western Christian traditions bishops carry a staff, which also serves as a symbol of the episcopal office, known as a crosier, which is modeled on the shepherd’s crook.

Above: A crosier

Above: A shepherd’s crook

Sheep are key symbols in: 

  • fables and nursery rhymes like The Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing, Little Bo Peep, Baa Baa Black Sheep, and Mary Had a Little Lamb

  • novels such as George Orwell’s Animal Farm and Haruki Murakami’s A Wild Sheep Chase

Above: Eric Arthur Blair (aka George Orwell) (1903 – 1950)

Above: Haruki Murakami

Above: Japanese first edition of A Wild Sheep Chase

  • songs such as Bach’s “Schafe können sicher weiden” (sheep may safely graze) and Pink Floyd’s “Sheep

Above: Johann Sebastian Bach (1685 – 1750)

  • poems like William Blake’s “The Lamb

Above: William Blake (1757 – 1827)

According to data from 2017, the number of cattle in Turkey is 16 million, 105 thousand, the number of sheep is 33 million, 677 thousand, and the number of goats is 10 million, 636 thousand.

The total milk production amounted to 20 million, 699 thousand tons, of which 1.344 million tons were produced from sheep.

The production of red meat was 1,126,403 tons, of which 100,058 tons were met by sheep.

Above: Flag of Turkey

In the region of Uşak, there are 376,104 sheep and 4,260 sheep-raising businesses.

Above: Ancient Phrygian Cilandiras bridge in Uşak Province

In sheep breeding, the main objective is undoubtedly economic production and/or breeding.

In order to achieve this goal, environmental factors (maintenance, nutrition, shelter, health protection, etc.) that will have an impact on yields must be improved or the genetic makeup of animals must be improved or both of them should be addressed together.

The desired production goal is often not achieved by improving either environmental conditions or the genetic makeup alone.

For this reason, firstly, breeds suitable for the existing region and the conditions of the business should be selected, while at the same time appropriate environmental conditions must be provided for these breeds.

Besides strategic importance, agriculture is one of the most important sectors in Turkey for many reasons, such as the high number of people living in rural areas, traditional conception of production, employment opportunities and contribution to economy.

Uşak has a population of 500,000 (2016 census) and is the capital of Uşak Province.

Uşak is situated at a distance of 210 km (130 mi) from Izmir, the region’s principal metropolitan centre and port city.

Benefiting from its location at the crossroads of the Central Anatolian plateau and the coastal Aegean region, and from a climate and agricultural production incorporating elements of both of these zones, Uşak has also traditionally had a strong industrial base.

In pre-industrial times, Uşak was already a major center of production and export, particularly of Ushak carpets.

Ushak carpets are also called Holbein carpets in reference to the 16th century painter Hans Holbein the Younger who depicted them in minute detail in his paintings, reflecting their popularity in European markets.

Above: Self-portrait, Hans Holbein the Younger (1497 – 1543)

At least since the 17th century there was trade between Uşak and the Dutch Republic as reflected in the rug shown thrown over the bannister in Vermeer’s painting “The Procuress“.

Above: Flag of the Netherlands

The rug was probably produced in Uşak and covers a third of the painting and shows medallions and leaves.

Above: Self-portrait, Johannes Vermeer (1632 – 1675)

Above: Johannes Vermeer’s The Procuress, Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister, Dresden, Germany

The level of international popularity attained by Uşak’s carpets became such that the word “Ushak” is considered an English word of Turkic origin.

Although Uşak’s carpet patterns have evolved since then, large-scale weaving still continues and the name of the city still has an important presence in the market for carpets, both hand-woven and industrial.

On the other hand, the district of Eşme, which is also in Uşak Province, is famous for its kilims.

Above: Uşak Holbein carpet

Above: A kilim – a tapestry-woven carpet

Uşak was the first city in Turkey to have an urban electricity network, and the first city where a collective labour relations agreement was signed, during the Ottoman era, between leather industry employees and workers.

It was here that the first factory of Republican Turkey, a sugar refinery, was set up through a private sector initiative among local businessmen.

The tradition of industriousness continues today in Uşak.

In the city center, there is the Uşak Organized Textile Industrial Zone and the Mixed (Leather) Organized Industrial Zone. 

Above: Uşak

Uşak is an industrial city producing yarn, raw and printed cloth, fiber, blanket, leather, ceramics and carpets.

There are 127 schools and institutions in Uşak, including primary and secondary education and vocational and technical education. 

Uşak University was established on 17 December 2006.

Above: Logo of Uşak University

In the early 20th century, mercury was discovered in Uşak.

Above: Liquid mercury

Among other district centers in Uşak Province, Banaz is the largest and is notable for its varied agricultural production as well as for its forests. 

Above: Banaz train station

Meanwhile Ulubey’s canyon is a natural site attracting many visitors.

Above: Ulubey Canyon

In 2015, the total number of sheep raising businesses registered in Uşak Food Agriculture and Livestock Provincial Directorate was 4,260.

The sheep raising businesses’ average time of being involved in the activity of sheep raising is 9.8 years.

When the reasons for them to be involved in sheep raising are examined, it is seen that for 54% of them it is the sole source of income, 25.6% of them have to support their families and 12.4% love doing it.

81.1% learned sheep raising from their ancestors.

77.4% are members of the Association of Breeding Sheep and Goat Raisers while 5.6% are not.

35.4% provide their breeding animals from both their herds and other herds, 25.6% provide them only from their own herds, 34.5% provide from other herds and 0.5% from other cities.

90% of the shepherds are from among the family members and 6.5% of them are hired.

Of the shepherds, 89.5% are males and 4% are females.

When the shepherds’ level of education is examined, it is seen that 3% of them are illiterate, 2.8% are just literate, 27.9% are elementary school graduates, 1.7% are middle school graduates and 1.2% are high school graduates.

There are almost no university graduates amongst sheep breeders in the country.

Of the participating sheep raising businesses, 46.3% use metal waterers and 42% use plastic waterers.

Of the businesses, 49% use wooden mangers and 43.6% use metal mangers.

They are followed by plastic and cement mangers (12% and 10%, respectively).

As the source of water, 69% of the sheep raising businesses use fountains, 21% use lakes and 4.2% use well water.

90% of sheep pens are located in villages.

61% of the pens are independently located away from the farm buildings.

69% of the roofs of the pens are constructed with tiles.

60% of the walls of the pens are built of bricks.

77% of the floors of the pens are soil.

59% of the pens possess a ventilation chimney.

59% of the pens possess no shade for the sheep.

88% of the pens possess no baths for the beasts.

Only 23% of sheep actually graze for their fodder.

80% of sheep spend their nights outdoors.

95% of sheep pens have a hayloft.

44% of the sheep pens are complete enclosures.

88% of the sheep pens lack milking facilities.

82% of the pens are cleaned every winter.

89% of the pens are aired out every winter.

In Uşak, the mating of sheep is performed by using both the free insemination and controlled mating.

The businesses prefer the free insemination method with 89.0% and controlled mating with 6.1% and class style with 0.7%.

While 80.4% of the businesses keep rams within the herd throughout the year, 15.4% of them keep them in the herd during the period of mating of sheep.

The period of meeting of sheep ends in September with 48% and there are some businesses ending their sheep mating period in October or November.

The time of insemination is at night with 63.6% and towards the end of the evening with 10.5%.

Mating of sheep is performed in the village (14.5%), the summer range (3.3%), on grazing land (6.8%) and in the sheep pen (64.3%).

The number of sheep reserved for a ram is 25 on average.

In Uşak, free insemination is used for the mating of sheep with 89.0%; in 80.4% of the businesses, rams are kept in the herd throughout the year and 15.4% of them keep rams in the herd only in the sheep mating period.

Depending on the time of mating of sheep, births to lambs are given in December (74.6%), January (9.1%), February (4.7%) and other months (5.6%).

In 84.9% of the sheep raising businesses, care of the umbilical cord is not performed.

While 31% of the businesses wean their lambs when they are three months old, 24.5% of them let lambs suck their mothers for five months.

Of the businesses, 76% do not perform milking until lambs are weaned.

A majority of the sheep-raising businesses in Uşak (62.2%) stated that they start extra feeding in the first month of the birth.

While 42.7% of the businesses start milking in May, 36.4% start in April and 7.9% start in March.

While a majority of the businesses (52%) end milking in August, 17.7% end it in July and 15.4% in September.

While a high majority of the businesses (81.6%) perform single milking a day, 9.6% of the businesses perform two milkings.

The time of milking is morning in 22.1% of the businesses, afternoon-evening in 51.3% of the businesses and morning-evening in 13.8% of the businesses.

While milking is usually performed by family members (83.7%), in some businesses shepherds (5.8%) perform milking and in 1.6% of the businesses this is done by milkers.

In 5.6% of the businesses, milking is performed by females and males together, in 77.4% of them only by females and in 4.7% by males.

In 67.1% of the businesses udder cleaning is not done and in 20.7% it is done.

Above: Sheep dairy farm, Aveyron, France

Sheep are clipped once a year.

Clipping of sheep is performed in Uşak in different months (May, June, August and September).

May and June are preferred more.

Clipping is usually performed by the owner of the herd (80.2%).

While clipping is mostly performed with a machine with 66%, a clipper is used in 29.6%.

When the information about extra feeding before the mating of sheep is examined, it is seen that while 36.1% of the businesses carry out extra feeding before the mating of sheep and 59% of them don’t.

The businesses carrying out extra feeding do this with rams and sheep (20%), with only rams (16.1%) and with only sheep (12%).

The most prominent sources of feed of the sheep raising businesses are: factory feed, particle feed, chaff, straw, or silage.

In extra feeding, the most commonly used source of it is factory feed (30.8) followed by particle feed (15.2%).

In the winter feeding of sheep, mostly barley is used (73.9%).

Some businesses use wheat, factory feed, beet pulp, cotton pulp, silage, tare, alfalfa, oat, hay and straw together with barley.

In pregnant sheep, while the rate of businesses performing extra feeding is 54.3%, 39.6% do not perform extra feeding.

The rate of extra feeding is 12% at the beginning of pregnancy, 9.6% at the middle of pregnancy and 36.4% at the end of pregnancy.

It was found that the rate of the businesses performing extra feeding to animals before the mating of sheep is 23.5%.

In the sheep raising businesses, 55.2% of the milk is used in cheese production.

The rest is used to make yogurt and to meet the needs of their own families (milk, yogurt and cheese).

Above: Feta cheese

Of the lambs obtained in the sheep raising businesses, 58.3% are sold to tradesmen after they have been weaned, 15.6% are fed up in the business, 15.6% are spared as breeding animals, and 10.5% are either sold to tradesmen, or sold as breeding animals, or fed up in the business.

Vaccination programs applied by sheep raising businesses in Uşak include enterotoxemia, brucella, smallpox, foot-and-mouth, plague, and bluetongue vaccines.

Of the sheep-raising businesses, 90% have a health protection schedule.

The control of vaccine programs is done by veterinary surgeons (84.1%), by veterinary health officials (3.0%) and by the business owners themselves (9.1%).

The sheep-raising businesses stated that they conduct disinfection in sheep pens.

The rate of the businesses conducting cleaning and disinfection in spring, summer, autumn and winter is 63.2%, 7.5%, 15.9% and %0.5, respectively and 72.7% of the disinfection is done by lime, 13.3% by chemical medicine and 2.3% by burning.

While the rate of those which have bath pits for sheep in the sheep pen is 8.4%, the rate of those which do not have bath pits is 91.6%.

The rate of those bathing their sheep at least once a year is 18.6% and the rate of those bathing their sheep more than once is 5.4%.

The rate of those conducting struggles with parasites at least once is 29.4%, the rate of those conducting it twice is 64.8% and the rate of those doing it more than three times is 5.8%.

It was found that 59.8% of the sheep-raising businesses get information from veterinary surgeons when they want to use any medicine, 38.1% from the City and Provincial Directorates of Agriculture, and 1.0% from other business owners in the village.

The rate of the sheep-raising businesses which apply all of the protective vaccines was found to be 64.9%.

The businesses apply their vaccines according to schedule with 84%, while 16% of them apply them randomly or when a disease emerges.

In 94.3% of the businesses, veterinary surgeons give the vaccines, while 5.7% themselves give the vaccines.

As breeders generally think that health protection program generally bring extra costs, they can ignore such protection programs.

As a result of this, increases occur in lamb deaths, deterioration in growth and decline in yields by adults, leading to important losses.

The distribution of the problems that seem to be important for sheep raising is as follows:

  • high cost of feed + inadequate and poor quality grazing lands (80.2%)
  • inadequate and poor quality grazing lands (6.4%)
  • high cost of feed + inadequate and poor quality gazing lands + animal diseases (3.5%)
  • high cost of feed + inadequate and poor quality grazing lands + low sale prices (3.3%)
  • high cost of feed (3.2%) and animal diseases and other reasons (3.4%).

The sheep raising businesses made the following suggestions to make sheep raising more profitable:

  • marketing price + improving grazing lands (30.0%)
  • improving the genetic make-up of the herd + marketing price + improving grazing lands + expanding land areas for the cultivation of feed crops (16.2%)
  • improving the generic make-up of the herd + marketing + improving grazing lands (11.3%)
  • marketing price + improving grazing lands + expanding land areas for the cultivation of feed crops (9.6%)
  • only marketing (8.2%)
  • only improving grazing lands (4.4%)
  • improving the genetic make-up of the herd + marketing price + cheap credit + improving grazing lands + expanding land areas for the cultivation of feed crops (7.1%)
  • marketing price + cheap credit + improving grazing lands (5.2%)
  • expanding land areas for the cultivation of feed crops (5.7%)
  • feed + supply of breeding animals, improving and cheap credit (2.3%).

In 3% of all the cultivated lands, feed crops are grown while in countries having a developed animal breeding sector, nearly 25% of the cultivated lands are allocated to cultivation of feed crops and even in some countries, this rate can reach 50%.

On the other hand, the main problems of the sheep raising businesses were found to be as follows:

  • marketing (39.1%)
  • high feed prices (23.1%)
  • inadequate grazing lands (21.8%)
  • credit problem (9.2%)
  • education and health problems (6.8%)

Of these businesses, 51.4% want a solution to the marketing problem, 15.1% to the grazing land problem, 14.7% to the credit problem, 10% to the health problem, 7.7% to the problem of breeding animals.

In Uşak, the Pırlak breed is widely raised (90.7%).

Though all of the business owners are literate, there are almost no university graduate business owners.

Sheep breeding primarily relies on grazing lands.

The mating of sheep is generally performed through free insemination.

The sheep pens, waterers and mangers possessed by the businesses are generally made up of regional and cheap materials.

The sizes such as length, width and height are sufficient and the sheep pens are usually built in the village under, next to the house.

The income sources of the businesses are milk, yoghurt, sale of breeding and butchery animals.

Yet, there are serious problems regarding packaging and marketing of products.

It can be argued that there is a certain level of consciousness of the animal health and anticipated importance is attached to vaccination.

The most important problems of sheep breeding are high feed prices, low product prices, inadequate and poor quality of grazing lands, and animal diseases.

In order to make sheep raising more attractive, the prices of the products should be increased, grazing lands should be improved, the genetic structure of the herd should be improved, the amount of land area where feed crops are cultivated should be expanded and suitable credit conditions should be provided.

On the other hand, they need to be informed about sheep mating, lamb growing, stock, milking hygiene, general sheep feeding practices and marketing.

Moreover, new breeds with better birth and milk efficiency can be introduced to the breeders apart from the Pırlak breed, works should be conducted on how to enhance birth efficiency, on out-of-season lambing and on intensive lamb breeding.

The herd health management and preventive medicine programs are designed to minimize anticipated problems and to enhance herd yield and may change from business to business.

Therefore, they should be designed to increase birth efficiency, decrease the rate of death, accelerate the growth, improve carcass quality, improve care and feeding practices to increase the amount and quality of milk, enhance animal raising techniques, improve vaccination program and parasite control and manure management.

For the successful application of health protection programs and accomplishment of the anticipated outcomes, there is a need for conscious and educated breeders.

In February 2018, the government of Turkey announced that it would “distribute 300 sheep to every farmer” in Turkey who wants it in a bid to revive the livestock sector, to encourage farmers not to move to urban areas, and to ease high meat prices, Agriculture and Livestock Minister Ahmet Eşref Fakıbaba stated.

Above: Ahmet Eşref Fakıbaba

We will distribute 300 sheep to every farmer.

Our priority is preventing more farmers from moving to urban areas, not to motivate people who live in the cities to move to villages.

When distributing those animals, regions with pastures will be given priority,” Fakıbaba said, speaking at a sector summit in the eastern province of Kars hosted by Hürriyet and Denizbank.

Above: Logo of Hürriyet newspaper

He also noted that the government has been working on how to curb imports and support animal breeding, amid criticism of rising imports of meat and struggling domestic production.

We have done the math.

If we provide 300 sheep and a year later they give birth to 300 lambs, breeders will keep those lambs and the state will buy back the sheep to redistribute to other farmers,” Fakıbaba said.

He also added that the government will also pay for the veterinary costs, social security and the minimum wage.

I have not heard what has happened to this notion since.

Sheep shearing is the process in which a worker (a shearer) cuts off the woolen fleece of a sheep.

After shearing, wool classers separate the wool into four main categories:

  • fleece (which makes up the vast bulk)
  • broken
  • bellies
  • locks

The quality of fleeces is determined by a technique known as wool classing, whereby a qualified person, called a wool classer, groups wools of similar grading together to maximize the return for the farmer or sheep owner.

In Australia, before being auctioned, all Merino fleece wool is objectively measured for average diameter (micron), yield (including the amount of vegetable matter), staple length, staple strength, and sometimes colour and comfort factor.

Above: Machine shearing a Merion sheep, Yallingup, Western Australia.
The shearer is using a sling for back support.

Wool straight off a sheep is known as “raw wool”, “greasy wool” or “wool in the grease“.

This wool contains a high level of valuable lanolin, as well as the sheep’s dead skin and sweat residue, and generally also contains pesticides and vegetable matter from the animal’s environment.

Before the wool can be used for commercial purposes, it must be scoured, a process of cleaning the greasy wool.

Scouring may be as simple as a bath in warm water or as complicated as an industrial process using detergent and alkali in specialized equipment.

In northwest England, special potash pits were constructed to produce potash used in the manufacture of a soft soap for scouring locally produced white wool.

Above: Potash, Yorkshire, England

Vegetable matter in commercial wool is often removed by chemical carbonization. 

In less-processed wools, vegetable matter may be removed by hand and some of the lanolin left intact through the use of gentler detergents.

This semi-greasy wool can be worked into yarn and knitted into particularly water-resistant mittens or sweaters, such as those of the Aran Island fishermen.

Lanolin removed from wool is widely used in cosmetic products, such as hand creams.

Above: Wool before and after scouring

Typically each adult sheep is shorn once each year (a sheep may be said to have been “shorn” or “sheared“, depending upon dialect).

The annual shearing most often occurs in a shearing shed, a facility especially designed to process often hundreds and sometimes more than 3,000 sheep per day.

Sheep are shorn in all seasons, depending on the climate, management requirements and the availability of a wool classer and shearers.

Ewes are normally shorn prior to lambing in the warmer months, but consideration is typically made as to the welfare of the lambs by not shearing during cold climate winters.

However, in high country regions, pre-lamb shearing encourages ewes to seek shelter among the hillsides so that newborn lambs aren’t completely exposed to the elements.

Shorn sheep tolerate frosts well, but young sheep especially will suffer in cold, wet windy weather (even in cold climate summers).

In this event they are sheltered for several nights until the weather clears.

Some sheep may also be shorn with stud combs, commonly known as cover combs, which leave more wool on the animal in colder months, giving greater protection.

Sheep shearing is also considered a sport with competitions held around the world. 

It is often done between spring and summer.

Above: Shorn sheep

(Sheep shearing and wool handling competitions are held regularly in parts of the world, particularly Ireland, the UK, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia.

Above: Flag of Ireland

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland

Above: Flag of South Africa

Above: Flag of New Zealand

Above: Flag of Australia

As sheep shearing is an arduous task, speed shearers, for all types of equipment and sheep, are usually very fit and well trained.

In Wales a sheep shearing contest is one of the events of the Royal Welsh Show, the country’s premier agricultural show held near Builth Wells.

Above: Flag of Wales

Above: Royal Welsh Agricultural Show Ground, Llanelwedd, Bulith Wells, Powys, Wales

The world’s largest sheep shearing and wool handling contest, the Golden Shears, is held in Wairarapa, New Zealand.

Above: Golden Shears Competition, 2007

The shearing World Championships are hosted by different countries every two to three years and eight countries have hosted the event.

The first World Championships were held at the Bath & West Showground, England, in 1977, and the first Machine-Shearing winner was Roger Cox from New Zealand.

Above: Bath and West Showground

Above: (left foreground) Roger Cox

Other countries that have hosted the sheep shearing World Championships have been:

  • New Zealand (3 times)
  • England (3 times)

Above: Flag of England

  • Australia (twice)
  • Wales
  • Ireland
  • Scotland

Above: Flag of Scotland

  • South Africa
  • Norway

Above: Flag of Norway

Out of 13 World Championships, New Zealand have won the team machine contest ten times.

Famous New Zealand sheep-shearer David Fagan has been World Champion a record five times.

Above: David Fagan (middle foreground)

In October 2008 the event was hosted in Norway.

It was the first time ever that the event was hosted by a non-English speaking country.

Above: Coat of arms of Norway

The newly crowned World Machine Shearing champion is Paul Avery from New Zealand.

New Zealand also won the team event.

Above: Paul Avery

The traditional blade-shears World Champion is Ziewilelle Hans from South Africa.

A record 29 countries competed at the 2008 event.

World Blade Shearing has been dominated by South African and Lesotho shearers, Fine Wool machine shearing dominated by Australian shearers, and New Zealand dominating the Strong Wool machine shearing.)

Today large flocks of sheep are mustered, inspected and possibly treated for parasites, such as lice, before shearing can start. then shorn by professional shearing teams working eight-hour days, most often in spring, by machine shearing.

These contract-teams consist of shearers, shed hands and a cook (in the more isolated areas).

Their working hours and wages are regulated by industry awards.

A working day starts at 0730 and the day is divided into four “runs” of two hours each.

Smoko” breaks are a half-hour each and a lunch break is taken at midday for one hour.

Most shearers are paid on a piece-rate per sheep.

Shearers who “tally” more than 200 sheep per day are known as “gun shearers“.

Typical mass shearing of sheep today follows a well-defined workflow:

  • remove the wool
  • throw the fleece onto the wool table
  • skirt, roll and class the fleece
  • place it in the appropriate wool bin
  • press and store the wool until it is transported.

In 1984, Australia became the last country in the world to permit the use of wide combs, due to previous Australian Workers’ Union rules.

Although they were once rare in sheds, women now take a large part in the shearing industry by working as pressers, wool rollers, rouseabouts, wool classers and shearers.

A sheep is caught by the shearer, from the catching pen, and taken to his “stand” on the shearing board.

It is usually shorn using a mechanical handpiece.

(Whatever device is used, shearers must be careful to keep it clean so as to prevent the spread of disease amongst a flock.

Blade shearing has recently made a resurgence in Australia and the UK but mostly for sport rather than commercial shearing.

Some competitions have attracted almost 30 competitors and there have even been shows created just for blade shearers to compete in.

Blade shears consist of two blades arranged similarly to scissors except that the hinge is at the end farthest from the point (not in the middle).

The cutting edges pass each other as the shearer squeezes them together and shear the wool close to the animal’s skin.

Blade shears are still used today but in a more limited way.

Blade shears leave some wool on a sheep and this is more suitable for cold climates, such as the Canterbury high country in the South Island of New Zealand where approximately half a million sheep are still shorn with blade shears each year.

Above: New Zealand

For those areas where no powered-machinery is available blade shears are the only option.

In Australia, blades are more commonly used to shear stud rams.

Above: Coat of arms of Australia

Machine shears, known as handpieces, operate in a similar manner to human hair clippers in that a power-driven toothed blade, known as a cutter, is driven back and forth over the surface of a comb and the wool is cut from the animal.

The original machine shears were powered by a fixed hand-crank linked to the handpiece by a shaft with only two universal joints, which afforded a very limited range of motion.

Later models have more joints to allow easier positioning of the handpiece on the animal.

Electric motors on each stand have generally replaced overhead gear for driving the handpieces.

The jointed arm is replaced in many instances with a flexible shaft.

Smaller motors allowed the production of shears in which the motor is in the handpiece.

These are generally not used by professional shearers as the weight of the motor and the heat generated by it becomes bothersome with long use.)

The wool is removed by following an efficient set of movements, devised by Godfrey Bowen in about 1950 (the Bowen Technique) or the Tally-Hi method developed in 1963 and promoted by the Australian Wool Corporation.

Above: NZ farmer / world-acclaimed sheep shearer Godfrey Bowen (1922 – 1994)

Sheep struggle less using the Tally-Hi method, reducing strain on the shearer and there is a saving of about 30 seconds in shearing each one.

The shearer begins by removing the belly wool, which is separated from the main fleece by a rouseabout, while the sheep is still being shorn.

A professional or “gun” shearer typically removes a fleece, without significantly marking or cutting the sheep, in two to three minutes, depending on the size and condition of the sheep — less than two minutes in elite competitive shearing.

The shorn sheep is released and removed from the board via a chute in the floor or in a wall, to an exterior counting-out pen.

The CSIRO (Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization) in Australia has developed a non-mechanical method of shearing sheep using an injected protein that creates a natural break in the wool fibres.

After fitting a retaining net to enclose the wool, sheep are injected with the protein.

When the net is removed after a week, the fleece has separated and is removed by hand. 

In some breeds a similar process occurs naturally

Once the entire fleece has been removed from the sheep, the fleece is thrown, clean side down, on to a wool table by a shed hand (commonly known in New Zealand and Australian sheds as a rouseabout or rousie).

The wool table top consists of slats spaced approximately 12 cm apart.

This enables short pieces of wool, the locks and other debris, to gather beneath the table separately from the fleece.

The fleece is then skirted by one or more wool rollers to remove the sweat fribs and other less desirable parts of the fleece.

The removed pieces largely consist of shorter, seeded, burry or dusty wool etc. which is still useful in the industry.

As such they are placed in separate containers and sold along with fleece wool.

Other items removed from the fleece on the table, such as faeces, skin fragments or twigs and leaves, are discarded a short distance from the wool table so as not to contaminate the wool and fleece.

Above: Throwing a fleece onto a wool table

Following the skirting of the fleece, it is folded, rolled and examined for its quality in a process known as wool classing, which is performed by a registered and qualified wool classer.

Based on its type, the fleece is placed into the relevant wool bin ready to be pressed (mechanically compressed) when there is sufficient wool to make a wool bale.

Above: Wool sorting bins

In some primitive sheep (for example in the Shetlands), there is a natural break in the growth of the wool in spring.

By late spring this causes the fleece to begin to peel away from the body, and it may then be plucked by hand without cutting – this is known as rooing.

Individual sheep may reach this stage at slightly different times.

Above: Shetland sheep

Animal welfare organizations have raised concerns about the abuse of sheep during shearing, and have advocated against the selling and buying of wool products.

Sheep shearers are paid by the number of sheep shorn, not by the hour, and there are no requirements for formal training or accreditation.

Because of this it is alleged that speed is prioritised over precision and care of the animal.

In 2013, an anonymous shearer reported instances of animal abuse by workers, an allegation to which an Australian Worker’s Union representative added that he had witnessed “shearers gouge eyes and break sheep jaws.”

Australian Wool Innovation insisted that animal welfare was a priority among shearers. 

The following year, the RSPCA (Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) began a cruelty investigation following the release of video footage that PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) said was taken in more than a dozen shearing sheds in New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia. 

Above: Logo of the RSPCA (Australia)

The Guardian reported that the video showed “sheep being roughly handled, punched in the face and stamped upon.

One sheep was beaten with a hammer while another was shown having a deep cut crudely sewn up.

The Shearing Contractors Association of Australia “applauded” the investigation.

Wool Producers Australia President Geoff Fisken said the behavior shown in the video was “unacceptable and unsupportable“, but that “we’re sure it doesn’t portray the 99.9% majority of wool shearers – and those shearers would be appalled by it as well“.

More recent footage and images of Australian workers abusing sheep have been released by anonymous sources, some of which was included in Dominion, a recent Australian documentary on animal farm abuses.

No comment has been made about this by the Shearing Contractors Association of Australia.

A culture has evolved out of the practice of sheep shearing, especially in post-colonial Australia and New Zealand.

The sheep-shearing feast is the setting for Act IV of William Shakespeare’s A Winter’s Tale

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

Thomas Tusser provides doggerel verse for the occasion:

Wife make us a dinner, spare flesh neither corne,
Make wafers and cakes, for our sheepe must be shorne,
At sheep shearing neighbors none other thing craue,
but good cheer and welcome, like neighbors to haue

Above: Thomas Tusser (1524 – 1580)

The expression that Australia’s wealth rode on the sheep’s back in parts of the 20th century no longer has the currency it once had.

Above: Jason returns with the Golden Fleece

The Golden Fleece, originally known as Shearing at Newstead, is an 1894 painting by the Australian artist Tom Roberts.

The painting depicts sheep shearers plying their trade in a timber shearing shed at Newstead North, a sheep station near Inverell on the Northern Tablelands of New South Wales.

Above: Tom Roberts’ The Golden Fleece, 1894

The same shed is depicted in another of Roberts’ works, Shearing Shed, Newstead (1894).

Above: Tom Roberts’ Shearing shed, Newstead, 1894

The painting was originally titled Shearing at Newstead, but was renamed The Golden Fleece after the Golden Fleece of Greek mythology to honour the wool industry and the nobility of the shearers.

This was in keeping with Roberts’ conscious idealisation of the Australian pastoral worker and landscape.

Above: Tom Roberts (1856 – 1931)

The painting, said to be “an icon of Australian art“, is part of the collection of the Art Gallery of New South Wales.

Above: Art Gallery of New South Wales, The Domain, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

During Australia’s long weekend in June 2010, 111 machine shearers and 78 blade shearers shorn 6,000 Merino ewes and 178 rams at the historic 72-stand North Tuppal station.

Above: North Tuppal Station, Tocumwal, New South Wales, Australia

Along with the shearers there were 107 wool handlers and penners-up and more than 10,000 visitors to witness this event in the restored shed.

Many stations across Australia no longer carry sheep due to lower wool prices, drought and other disasters, but their shearing sheds remain, in a wide variety of materials and styles, and have been the subject of books and documentation for heritage authorities.

Some farmers are reluctant to remove either the equipment or the sheds, and many unused sheds remain intact.

Australia’s sheep shearers have long been celebrated in verse and art as the hard men of the country’s inland, but now they are fleeing because the animals have grown too big.

The pursuit of a crossbreed with both a full fleece of wool and that can then be sold for meat has created sheep almost double the weight they were 35 years ago.

As a result, battered shearers are deserting in droves.

Of more than 4,000 wool handlers trained in 2019, fewer than half have stayed in the job, according to Australian Wool Innovation, the industry body.

When I started shearing in the late Eighties, you had to be careful with merino ewes so you didn’t break their front legs while handling them.“, Phil Rourke, a veteran shearer said.

But now the average merino ewe is so heavy and strong that you can’t even tip it without busting your guts.

Rourke’s view that sheep are growing to an unmanageable size is echoed by shearers’ associations and livestock specialists.

Jason Letchford, Secretary of the Shearing Contractors Association of Australia, said that farmers faced the prospect of being without hundreds of shearers for the coming season.

It is absolutely a concern for us at the moment.“, Letchford told The Land newspaper.

We have got a national flock of 68 million sheep, so you are talking about 10% of the nation’s sheep that won’t be shorn by the workforce we would normally have here to do them.”

Glenn Haynes, the Association’s Executive Officer, said the size of sheep was the biggest reason young people gave up.

Some even leave within a couple of weeks.“, he added.

The notion that Australia’s shearers might one day be scared off by sheep would have been unimaginable to the impressionist Tom Roberts, whose celebrated 1890 work “Shearing the Rams” depicted the strapping shearers behind the wool boom.

The much-loved bush song “Click Go the Shears“, which appeared a year later, also romanced their life.

In 1985, the average weight of a Dorset ewe in Australia was 55kg, but by 2015 it has increased to 90kg.

Rourke said that during the busy season he woke up unable to feel his arms.

You are getting the daylights kicked out of you all day.”

Approximately 90% of the world’s sheep produce wool.

One sheep produces anywhere from 2 to 30 pounds of wool annually.

The wool from one sheep is called a fleece.

From many sheep, a clip.

The amount of wool that a sheep produces depends upon its breed, genetics, nutrition and shearing interval.

Lambs produce less wool than mature animals.

Due to their larger size, rams usually produce more wool than ewes of the same breed or type.

Long wool sheep usually produce the heaviest fleeces because their fibers, though coarser, grow the longest.

Hand spinners tend to prefer wool from the long wool breeds because it is easier to spin.

Some sheep produce very coarse fibers.

This type of wool is called carpet wool, and as the name suggests is used to make carpets and tapestries.

According to the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO), 41% of world wool production is classified as coarse wools.

Above: Coarse wool ewes

Medium wool sheep, raised more for meat than fiber, produce the lightest weight, least valuable fleeces.

Medium wool is usually made into blankets, sweaters, or socks or it is felted.

According to the IWTO, 22% of world wool production is classified as medium wools.

Above: Medium wool ewes

Fine wool sheep produce fleeces which usually have the greatest value due to their smaller fiber diameter and versatility of use.

Garments made from fine wool are less likely to itch.

According to the IWTO, 37% of world wool production is classified as fine wools.

Above: Fine wool rams

Hair sheep shed their coats and produce no usable fibers.

The “fleeces” from hair sheep and hair x wool crosses should be discarded.

Their inclusion in a wool clip can contaminate the entire clip.

Even raising wool sheep along side hair sheep or other shedding animals could potentially affect fleece quality of the wooled sheep.

Hair will not accept dye.

Above: Fleeces

The value of wool is based on its suitability for specific end uses, as well as the fundamentals of the world wool market.

Raw wool is usually purchased on the basis of grade.

Grade denotes the average fiber diameter and length of individual fibers.

The grade (or price) is reduced if the wool is dirty and contains a lot of vegetable matter or other contaminants.

Above: Learning to grade wool

In the commercial market, white wool is more valuable than coloured wool because it can be dyed any colour.

Even the wool from sheep with white faces is more valuable than the wool from sheep with dark or moddled faces because the fleeces from non-white face sheep may contain coloured wool or hairs which cannot be dyed.

In contrast, naturally-colored wools are often favoured in the niche markets.

Large producers of wool usually sell their wools to warehouses or directly to wool mills.

Sometimes the wool is sold on a clean (scoured) basis with the lower quality belly wool being removed from the clip.

Small producers usually sell (raw) through wool pools.

A wool pool is a collection point for wool from many producers.

At the pool, wool is sorted and packaged into different lots.

The entire pool is sold to one mill, often via silent bid.

Above: Wool at a wool mill

Some producers sell their wool to hand spinners or have it made into yarn or blankets.

When prices are low, some producers throw their wool away or give it to their shearer.

Above: Unloading wool at the wool pool

In 2019, the average price paid for wool sold in the United States was $1.89 per pound (grease) for a total value of $45.4 million.

In 2019, 24 million pounds of wool was harvested from 3.32 million head of sheep and lambs.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

The average fleece weight was 7.2 pounds (3.27 kg), compared to almost 10 lbs. (4.5 kg) in Australia.

Above: Australia

In the US, Nevada sheep boasted the heaviest fleece weights: 9.2 lbs. in 2019.

Above: Flag of Nevada

Sheep producers can get more money for their wool if they direct market it to hand spinners or add value to it.

In niche markets, there is no upper limit as to what wool can sell for.

Above: Wool buyers’ room at a wool auction, Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia

Wool is a freely-traded international commodity, subject to global supply and demand.

While wool represents only 3% of world fiber production, it is important to the economy and way of life in many countries.

Above: Wool garments

Though China is the largest producer of wool, Australia dominates the world wool market.

China is the largest wool buyer.

Above: Flag of China

The United States accounts for less than 1% of the world’s wool production and is a net importer of wool.

In the US, the top states for wool production are California, Colorado, Wyoming and Utah.

Above: Flag of California

Above: Flag of Colorado

Above: Flag of Wyoming

Above: Flag of Utah

Most people know that wool comes from sheep, but how it transforms from a sheep’s fluffy coat to material that is ready to be worn is a journey.

Wool goes through a multi-step process to clean it, regularize it, and transform it into soft yarn.

Although machinery can make the process much faster today, in most ways the process is the same as how people have been preparing wool for centuries.

Above: Sjolingstad Woolen Mill Museum, Norway

Every year, at the end of winter, sheep farmers shear their sheep, using an electric tool similar to a razor that removes all of the sheep’s fleece in one piece.

A single sheep’s annual fleece can weigh over 8 kilos, although most are around 3 – 4 kilos.

When done with care, shearing doesn’t harm the sheep.

Shearing leaves them with a thin, cool coat for the summer months.

Without shearing, the sheep’s fleece can severally overgrow, such as the famous case of “Shrek the Sheep”.

Above: Shrek the sheep

(Shrek (27 November 1994 – 6 June 2011) was a Merino wether (castrated male sheep) belonging to Bendigo Station, a sheep station near Tarras, New Zealand, who gained international fame in 2004, after he avoided being caught and shorn for six years.

Above: Bendigo Station, Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand

Merinos are normally shorn annually, but Shrek apparently hid in caves, avoiding muster (round-up).

He was named after the fictional ogre in books and films of the same name.

Above: Shrek the ogre

After finally being caught on 15 April 2004, the wether was shorn by a professional in 20 minutes on 28 April.

The shearing was broadcast on national television in New Zealand.

Above: Coat of arms of New Zealand

His fleece contained enough wool to make 20 large men’s suits, weighing 27 kg (60 lb) – an average Merino fleece weighs around 4.5 kg (10 lb), with exceptional weights up to around 15 kg (33 lb).

Shrek became a national icon.

He was taken to Parliament to meet New Zealand Prime Minister Helen Clark, in May 2004, to celebrate his 10th birthday.

Above: Helen Clark

In November 2006, 30 months after his initial shearing, Shrek was shorn again, on an iceberg floating off the coast of Dunedin, New Zealand.

Shrek was euthanized on 6 June 2011 on a veterinarian’s advice.

He was 16.)

Above: Shrek, 2009

The wool is then sorted and prepared for cleaning.

A simple step of washing the wool with removes dirt, other contaminants, and natural oils from the wool.

Some of these by-products of cleaning the wool get used for other purposes.

Lanolin, a wax secreted by sheep that helps to protect their wool, is included in many beauty products such as skin moisturizer.

Above: Tins of wool fat, Centre touristique de la Laine et de la Mode, Verviers, Belgium

Next, the wool fibers go through carding, a process that pulls them through fine metal teeth.

Sheep wool is naturally curly.

Carding straightens out the fibers and makes them soft and fluffy.

Originally, carding would be done by hand using two metal combs.

Today, most manufacturers use machines to card large batches of wool more quickly.

By the end of carding, the wool fibers are lined up into a thin, flat piece.

These sheets can then be drawn into long, thin pieces called rovings.

Spinning turns the wool pieces into a material that is usable.

Spinning uses a wheel to spin 2 – 5 strands of wool together.

This forms long, strong pieces of wool that you would recognize as yarn.

Different processes create different kinds of yarn that work for distinct final products.

Worsted spinning, for example, makes a smooth, thin yarn that’s perfect for suits and other garments made with the finer material.

Woolen spinning, on the other hand, makes a thicker yarn that is perfect for knitting.

Some wool yarn is sold directly to consumers, who use it to craft handmade scarves, sweaters and other clothing.

Other yarn forms the raw material for all kinds of wool products, from shoes to coats.

It is woven into pieces of fabric that are ready to be shaped by fashion designers.

Wool quickly absorbs water, which makes it very easy to dye.

It can be dyed at almost any stage of the process, depending on what the final product will be.

Simply submerging the wool into boiling water with the dye material, or applying colorful dyes directly to the fabric, produces the desired colour.

The process of transforming a sheep’s fleece into soft and cozy wool is truly an art form that needs to be carefully managed.

Although the process can be time-consuming, the end product carries many natural benefits. 

Domestication is when an organism is trained or adapted to live with people.

Domestication often changes the appearance and behavior of the organism.

While dogs were the first animal to be domesticated, sheep and goats are tied for second and are the first animals to be domesticated for agricultural purposes.

They were domesticated over 10,000 years ago.

Life expectancy is how long an organism is expected to live.

Typically, the life expectancy of an animal increases with size.

For example, cows usually live longer than sheep.

The life expectancy of sheep is similar to large breeds of dogs, about 10 to 12 years.

Some breeds are known for being longer-lived, e.g. Merino.

According to the Guinness Book of World Records, the oldest sheep lived to be 23.

She was a Merino.

However, the length of a sheep’s productive lifetime tends to be much less.

This is because a ewe’s productivity usually peaks between 3 and 6 years of age and begins to decline after the age of 7.

As a result, most ewes are removed from a flock before they would reach their natural life expectancy.

It is also necessary to get rid of older ewes in order to make room for younger ones.

The younger animals are usually genetically superior to the older ones.

In harsh environments (e.g. where forage is sparse), ewes are usually culled at a younger age because once their teeth start to wear and break down, it becomes more difficult for them to maintain their body condition and consume enough forage to feed their babies.

It is possible for a ewe to be productive past 10 years of age, if she is well-fed and managed and stays healthy and sound.

The approximate age of a sheep can be determined by examining their upper incisor teeth.

At birth, lambs have eight baby (or milk) teeth or temporary incisors arranged on their lower jaw.

They don’t have any teeth on their top jaw, only a dental pad.

At approximately one year of age, the central pair of baby teeth is replaced by a pair of permanent incisors.

At age 2, the second pair is replaced by permanent incisors.

At 3 and 4 years, the third and fourth pairs of baby teeth are replaced.

At approximately four years of age, a sheep has a full mouth of teeth.

As it ages past four, the incisor teeth will start to spread, wear, and eventually break.

When a ewe has lost some of her teeth, she’s called a “broken mouth” ewe.

When she’s lost all her teeth, she’s called a “gummer“.

A sheep with no incisor teeth can still survive because it uses mostly its molars for chewing feed.

However, it will have a harder time grazing, especially short vegetation.

A sheep that has rolled over onto its back is called a “cast” sheep.

It may not be able to get up without assistance.

This happens most commonly with short, stocky sheep with full fleeces on flat terrain.

Heavily pregnant ewes are most prone.

Cast sheep can become distressed and die within a short period of time if they are not rolled back into a normal position.

When back on their feet, they may need supported for a few minutes to ensure they are steady.

Vital signs are measures of various physiological statistics.

A sheep’s vital signs can help determine if it is sick or in distress.

The average body temperature of a healthy sheep is 102° – 103° Fahrenheit, with a heart rate of 60 to 90 beats per minute and a respiration rate of 12 to 20 breaths a minute.

Sheep are a prey animal.

When they are faced with danger, their natural instinct is to flee not fight.

Their strategy is to use avoidance and rapid flight to avoid being eaten.

Some primitive sheep breeds may be able to more effectively evade predators, as their natural instincts are stronger.

Domesticated sheep have come to rely on man for protection from predators.

After fleeing, sheep will reform their group and look at the predator.

They use their natural herding instinct to band together for safety.

A sheep that is by itself is vulnerable to attack.

Sheep tracks are never straight.

The winding of trails allows sheep to observe their backside first with one eye, then the other.

Sheep can spot dogs or other perceived forms of danger from 1,200 to 1,500 yards away.

Sheep have excellent senses.

Their wide angle of vision allows them to see predators.

They can direct their ears to the direction of sound.

They are very sensitive to what different predators smell like.

Sheep have an amazing tolerance for pain.

They do not show pain, because if they do, they will be more vulnerable to predators who look for those who are weak or injured.

The easiest way to tell the difference between a sheep and a goat is to look at their tails.

A goat’s tail goes up (unless it is sick, frightened or in distress.

A sheep’s tail hangs down and is often docked (shortened) for supposedly health and sanitary reasons.

Another big difference between a sheep and a goat is their foraging behaviour and diet selection.

Goats are natural browsers, preferring to eat leaves, twigs, vines and shrubs.

They are very agile and will stand on their hind legs to reach vegetation.

Goats like to eat the tops of plants.

Sheep are grazers, preferring to eat short tender grasses and clover.

Their dietary preference is forbs (broadleaf weeds) and they like to graze close to the soil surface.

Goats require and select a more nutritious diet.

Sheep and goats usually exhibit different behaviour.

Goats are naturally curious and independent, while sheep tend to be more distant and aloof.

Above: Pymgy goat, Fiesch, Valais, Switzerland

Sheep have a stronger flocking instinct and become very agitated if they are separated from the rest of the flock.

It is easier to keep sheep inside a fence than goats.

Sheep have a strong instinct to follow the sheep in front of them.

When one sheep decides to go somewhere, the rest of the flock usually follows, even if it is not a good “decision“.

For example, sheep will follow each other to slaughter.

If one sheep jumps over a cliff, the others are likely to follow.

Even from birth, lambs are conditioned to follow older members of the flock.

This instinct is “hard-wired” into sheep.

This is not something sheep “think” about.

There is a certain strain of sheep in Iceland known as leader sheep.

The Icelandic leader sheep is a separate line within the Icelandic breed of sheep.

Above: Flag of Iceland

As the name implies these sheep were leaders in their flocks.

The leadership ability runs in bloodlines and is equally in males and females.

Leader sheep are highly intelligent animals that have the ability and instinct to lead a flock home during difficult conditions.

Sheep of this strain have the ability, or instinct, to run in front of the flock, when it is driven home from the mountain pastures in autumn, from the sheep sheds to the winter pasture in the morning and back home in the evening, through heavy snowdrifts, over ice-covered ground, or across rivers.

Sometimes the leaders would take the whole flock of grazing sheep on winter pasture back to the farm, early in the day, if a blizzard was on its way.

They have an exceptional ability to sense danger.

There are many stories in Iceland of leader sheep saving many lives during the fall round-ups when blizzards threatened shepherds and flocks alike.

Sheep are gregarious.

They will usually stay in a group while grazing.

In fact, a sheep will become highly agitated if it is separated from the group.

It is the banding together in large groups which protects sheep from predators which will go after the outliers in the flock.

Sheep are a very social animal.

Animal behaviorists note that sheep require the presence of at least 4 or 5 sheep which, when grazing together, maintain a visual link to each other.

Flocking instinct is strongest in the fine wool breeds, but exists in all sheep breeds to some extent.

It is the sheep’s flocking instinct that allows sheep herders to look after and move large numbers of sheep and lambs.

Due to their strong flocking instinct and failure to act independently of one another, sheep have been universally branded “stupid“.

But sheep are not stupid.

Their only protection from predators is to band together and follow the sheep in front of them.

If a predator is threatening the flock, this is not the time to act independently.

At the same time, there is a growing body of evidence that sheep may actually possess some smarts.

Hungry sheep on the Yorkshire Moors (Great Britain) taught themselves to roll 8 feet (3 meters) across hoof-proof metal cattle grids to raid villagers’ valley gardens.

Above: North Yorkshire Moors, England

According to a witness:

They lie down on their side or sometimes their back and just roll over and over the grids until they are clear.

I’ve seen them doing it.

It is quite clever, but they are a big nuisance to the villagers.

[BBC News, July 2004]

A study of sheep psychology has found man’s woolly friend can remember the faces of more than 50 other sheep for up to two years.

They can even recognize a familiar human face.

The hidden talents of sheep revealed by a study in the journal Nature suggest they may be nearly as good as people at distinguishing faces in a crowd.

Researchers say:

Sheep form individual friendships with one another, which may last for a few weeks.

It’s possible they may think about a face even when it’s not there.

Researchers also found female sheep had a definite opinion about what made a ram’s face attractive.

According to researchers in Australia, sheep can learn and remember.

Researchers have developed a complex maze test to measure intelligence and learning in sheep, similar to those used for rats and mice.

Using the maze, researchers have concluded that sheep have excellent spatial memory and are able to learn and improve their performance.

And they can retain this information for a six-week period.

The maze uses the strong flocking instinct of sheep to motivate them to find their way through.

The time it initially takes an animal to rejoin its flock indicates smartness, while subsequent improvement in times over consecutive days of testing measures learning and memory.

Scientists at the University of Cambridge discovered that sheep have brain power to equal rodents, monkeys, and in some tests, humans.

They discovered the sheep “intelligence” while researching neurodegeneration, with a focus on Huntington’s disease, an inherited disorder that leads to nerve damage and dementia.

Above: Coat of arms of the University of Cambridge, England

The scientists put sheep through a set of challenges often given to humans suffering from Huntington’s.

The sheep showed that they had advanced learning capabilities, as they were able to navigate the challenges in the same way as humans and primates.

New research is suggesting that sick sheep could actually be smart enough to cure themselves.

Australian researchers believe that sick sheep may actually seek out plants that make them feel better.

There has been previous evidence to suggest that animals can detect what nutrients they are deficient in and can develop knowledge about which foods are beneficial or toxic.

Sheep are individuals, as are all the creatures great and small on the planet, however unnoticed, unstudied or unsung.

When we treat an animal as a pet, because of illness, accident or bereavement, it will exhibit great intelligence, a huge capacity for affection and an ability to adapt to unusual routines.

Perhaps everything boils down to the amount of time spent with any one animal.

Perhaps that is true of humans too.

Above: Cast of the BBC 1978 TV series All Creatures Great and Small
(left to right) Christopher Timothy (James Herriot), Robert Hardy (Siegfried Farnon), Peter Davison (Tristan Farnon), Mary Hignett (Helen Herriot) and Carol Drinkwater (Mrs. Edna Hall)

Animals are individuals.

Farmed animals are usually kept in large groups, but this does not mean that individuality disappears.

Their levels of intelligence vary, just as much as is true of humans.

No teacher ever expects, or wants, all his students in the classroom to be identical.

No one wants to create a society in which everyone wears the same clothes or shares the same hobbies.

Just because we are not clever enough to notice the differences between individual sheep is not a reason for presuming that there are none.

Animals and people can appear to lose their identities or become institutionalized if forced to live in unnaturally crowded, featureless regimented or boring conditions.

When this happens it is not proof that individuals are all the same or want to be treated as such.

We judge the comparative intelligence of different species by human standards.

Yet why should human criteria have any relevance to other species?

If an animal’s intelligence is sufficient to make it a success as that animal, what more could be desired?

Those who spend a lifetime observing animals witness amazing examples of logical, practical intelligence and some cases of outright stupidity.

Qualities also seen in human beings.

Animals merely get on with the day-to-day business of living, solving or failing to solve problems as they arise.

The important point is that animals should be given the wherewithal to succeed as animals, not as some inadequate servants of human beings.

Physical and mental development is affected by diet and freedom.

No one would expect a child to develop normally when kept in cramped unfriendly conditions, deprived of parents and siblings, with restricted exercise and the same diet everyday.

Yet many farmers and the government departments that inform them seem to expect farm animals to develop normally in such circumstances.

If you give animals the opportunity and time to choose between several alternatives, then they will choose what is best for them, and they will not all choose the same thing.

Goats will seek shelter more readily than sheep.

Neither species likes to get its feet wet and both prefer upland grazing to lowland.

In a fight, a ram will back up to charge and butt heads.

During confrontation, such fighting behaviour favours the ram.

Sheep and goats have numerous physical differences.

Most goats have hair coats that don’t require shearing or combing.

Most sheep grow wooly coats that need to be sheared at least once a year.

Sheep have an upper lip that is split by a distinct philtrum (groove).

The goat does not.

Male goats have glands beneath their tails.

Sheep have face or tear glands beneath their eyes and foot or scent glands between their toes.

Male goats develop a distinct odor as they reach sexual maturity.

The odor is very strong during the rutting (mating) season.

Most goats are naturally horned.

Some goats have beards.

Many breeds of sheep are naturally hornless (polled).

Some sheep have manes.

Tails are a natural part of sheep.

Lambs are born with tails.

The length of a lamb’s tail is usually half-way between the length of its mother’s tail and its father’s tail.

In fact, tail length is one of the most heritable traits in sheep.

Up to 84% of the variation in sheep tail length is due to genetics.

The purpose of the sheep’s tail is to protect the sheep’s anus, vulva, and udder from weather extremes.

Sheep lift their tails when they defecate and use their tails, to some extent, to scatter their feces.

Under modern sheep production systems, tails are usually docked (shortened) to prevent fecal matter from accumulating on the back side of the sheep, which can result in fly strike (wool maggots).

Left untreated, fly strike can be fatal, as the maggots eat away at the sheep’s flesh.

Tail docking also makes it easier to shear the sheep and process them for meat.

The tail does not interfere with breeding or lambing.

There are different methods that can be used to dock the tails of lambs.

The most common method is to put a rubber band (ring) around the tail.

When this method is used, it is recommended that lambs be docked at a young age (1 to 7 days) to minimize the stress and pain experienced by the lamb.

The dock (tail) should be left long enough to cover the ewe’s vulva and ram’s anus.

Short tail docks may contribute to the incidence of rectal prolapses.

While some animal activists claim that tail docking is an inhumane practice made necessary by modern production practices, this claim is simply untrue.

When done properly, tail docking is not inhumane.

While it causes some pain, it does not affect the health or growth of the lamb.

Tail docking is done to protect the health and hygiene of sheep and lambs.

Liquid feces (diarrhea) can occur in all production systems, thus, putting the sheep at risk for flystrike.

I strongly disagree with this practice.

The mutilation of animals has its roots in propaganda, custom and thoughtless adherence to tradition, which cannot be justified on any grounds.

If lambs’ tails get dirty, the cause needs to be addressed.

It is NOT a solution to cut off their tails.

Sheep are over one year of age.

They usually produce offspring.

Lambs are less than one year of age.

They usually do not produce offspring.

A yearling is an animal between 1 and 2 years of age that may or may not have produced offspring.

In other countries, a yearling ewe is called a hogget, shearling, gimmer, theave or teg.

Lamb is also the term for the flesh of a young domestic sheep eaten as food.

Above: Shoulder of lamb

The meat from a sheep that is older than 12 months is called mutton.

Yearling mutton is the meat from a sheep between 1 and 2 years of age.

Mutton has a much stronger flavour than lamb.

Above: Mutton steak

An abattoir is a building where animals are slaughtered and processed into meat products.

It comes from the French word, abattre, “to strike down“.

Above: Lovis Corinth’s In the slaughterhouse, 1893



A female sheep is called a ewe.

Yoe is a slang term for ewe.

A young female is called a ewe lamb.

The process of giving birth to lambs is called lambing.

Another word for birthing is parturition.

Another word for pregnancy is gestation.

A male sheep is called a ram.

Buck is the slang term for ram.

A young male is called a ram lamb.

In parts of the United Kingdom, a ram is called a tup and the mating season is called tupping.

A castrated male sheep is called a wether.

Wethers are less aggressive than rams.

A group of sheep is called a flock.

Larger groups of sheep are called bands or mobs.

A shepherd is a person who cares for sheep.

A sheepherder is a herder of sheep (on open range).

It is someone who keeps the sheep together in a flock.

In the US, the sheepherder is not usually the owner of the sheep.

A farm is an area of land, including various structures, devoted primarily to the practice of producing and managing food.

It usually includes cultivated land for producing crops.

A ranch is a farm consisting of a large tract of land along with facilities needed to raise livestock.

In 2014, it was estimated that 61,712 adult sheep and 132,683 lambs were killed by predators in the United States, costing farmers and ranchers almost $32.6 million.

In 2014, predation accounted for 28.1% of sheep losses and 36.4% of lamb losses.

Above: Fox

Coyotes were responsible for the majority of losses due to predation.

Above: Coyote

However, in terms of number of sheep operations affected, free-ranging or wild dogs may be the most common predator problem.

Some producers experience few or no problems with predators, while countless others battle the problem or have been driven out of the sheep business due to catastrophic losses.

Sheep have many natural predators: coyotes, wolves, foxes, bears, dogs, eagles, bobcats, etc.

Sheep are vulnerable to predators because they are basically defenseless and have no means of protecting themselves.

Above: Cougar

Each predator species has traits peculiar to it.

Coyotes typically attack sheep at the throat.

Above: Coyote attacking a lamb

Dogs are usually indiscriminate in how and where they attack.

Young or inexperienced coyotes may attack any part of the body as dogs would.

Coyotes, foxes, mountain lions and bobcats usually feed on a carcass at the flanks or behind the ribs and consume viscera, such as liver, heart and lungs.

Above: Bobcat

Bears usually prefer meat to viscera and often eat the udder of lactating ewes.

Above: Black bear

Eagles skin out carcasses and leave much of the skeleton intact on larger animals.

With lambs, eagles may bite off and swallow the ribs.

Above: Golden eagle

Smaller predators, such as coyotes, foxes and bobcats, select lambs over adult sheep.

Bears and mountain lions take adult sheep as well as lambs.

Coyotes, dogs, bears and mountain lions may kill more than one animal in a single episode, but often only one of the animals is fed upon.

Above: Sheep skull

While no technique is 100% effective, there are some techniques that shepherds can employ to protect their sheep from predators.

The most obvious way is to keep sheep and lambs safe by penning them at night or bedding them nearby.

Employ sheep herders will provide some protection from predators.

Certain types of fences (net and high-tensile electric) will aid in keeping predators out.

Fencing is particularly effective when incorporated with other methods of predator control, such as livestock guardians.

Livestock guardians are becoming increasingly popular with shepherds.

Three animals are used as livestock guardians:

  • dogs
  • llamas
  • donkeys

A dog generally stays with the sheep without harming them and aggressively repels predators.

Llamas and donkeys have an inherent dislike of dogs.

Above: Llama

In fact, any animal that displays aggressive behaviour to intruding predators may be a deterrent.

Above: Donkey

While some people may find lethal control methods (shooting, trapping, snaring, denning and poisoning) distasteful, sometimes they are the only method to remove individual predators, particularly those killing large numbers of sheep.

Because they are a prey animal, sheep require excellent senses to enhance their chances of survival in the wild.

Sheep depend heavily on their vision.

They have excellent peripheral vision and can see behind themselves without turning their heads.

However, they have poor depth perception.

They cannot see immediately in front of their noses.

Some vertical vision may also have been sacrificed in order to have a wider field of vision.

For example, it is doubtful that a sheep would be able to see something in a tree.

Contrary to previous thought, sheep and other livestock perceive colours, though their colour vision is not as well-developed as it is in humans.

Sheep will react with fear to new colours.

Sheep have excellent hearing.

They can direct their ears in the direction of a sound.

Sound arrives at each ear at slightly different times, with a small difference in amplitude.

Sheep are frightened by high-pitched and loud noises, such as barking dogs or firecrackers.

Sheep have an excellent sense of smell.

They are very sensitive to what different predators smell like.

Smell helps rams locate ewes in heat and ewes locate their lambs.

Sheep also use their sense of smell to locate water and determine subtle or major differences between feeds and pasture.

The sense of taste in sheep is probably not as important as the other senses.

However, sheep have the ability to differentiate different feedstuffs and taste may play a role in this ability.

When presented with a variety of feeds, sheep will select certain feeds over others.

Sheep will select different types and species of plants than other livestock.

Since the sheep’s body is covered with wool or coarse hair, only the nose, lips, mouth, and maybe ears readily lend themselves to touching behaviour.

However, touching is important to the interaction between sheep.

Lambs seek bodily contact with their mothers and the ewes respond to touching in many ways, including milk letdown in response to the nuzzling/suckling stimulus of lambs.

When young lambs sleep, they will seek out their mothers and lie close to them.

Making animals happy and allowing them to express their natural behavioural instincts is not just morally and ethically essential.

It also makes sound financial sense.

Happy animals grow faster.

Children under stress eat and sleep less well than those who are happy and relaxed.

Unhappy children develop real and imaginary ailments.

Stress can be reduced or eliminated by improving existing conditions.

A change of environment or diet, more understanding or love, all play their part.

It is the same with animals.

It is misplaced conceit to believe that any manmade environment can equal or better the natural one.

No artificially manufactured conditions can match the reassurance, stability, attention, companionship and appropriate food that nature provides.

Albert Einstein said that the only really valuable thing is intuition.

I believe that he was right.

Above: Albert Einstein (1879 – 1955)

Instinct and intuition are the most useful tools any living creature possesses.

We suppress instinct in animals and in children at a huge risk to the world.

Wherever the pursuit of maximum profit had led to intensification, it has been animals that have suffered most.

The Story of the Golden Fleece

Athamas the Minyan, a founder of Halos in Thessaly, but also the King of the city of Orchomenus in Boetia (a region of southeastern Greece), took the goddess Nephele as his first wife.

Above: John Flaxman’s The Fury of Athamas

Above: Remains of ancient Halos, Thessaly, Greece

Above: Ruins of the Acropolis of Orchomenus

Above: Punishment of Ixion: In the center is Mercury holding the caduceus. On the right is Juno on her throne, and behind her Iris stands and gestures. On the left is Vulcanus (blond figure) manning the wheel, with Ixion already tied to the wheel. Nephele sits at Mercury’s feet. Roman fresco from the eastern wall of the triclinium in the Casa dei Vettii (“House of the Vetii”) in Pompeii, Italy

They had two children, the boy Phrixus (whose name means “curly” as in the texture of the ram’s fleece) and the girl Helle.

Above: Helle and Phrixus, Fresco, Pompeii

Later Athamas became enamored of and married Ino, the daughter of Cadmus.

Above: Cadmus fighting the dragon, Louvre Museum, Paris, France

When Nephele left in anger, drought came upon the land.

Ino was jealous of her stepchildren and plotted their deaths.

In some versions, she persuaded Athamas that sacrificing Phrixus was the only way to end the drought.

Above: Statue of Ino, Cour Carrée, Palais du Louvre, Paris, France

Nephele, or her spirit, appeared to the children with a winged ram whose fleece was of gold.

The ram had been sired by Poseidon in his primitive ram-form upon Theophane, a nymph and the granddaughter of Helios, the sun god.

Above: Statue of Poseidon, National Archaeological Museum, Athens, Greece

Above: Theophane

Above: Helios, Fresco, Pompeii

According to the Latin author Hyginus (64 BCE – 17 CE), Poseidon carried Theophane to an island where he made her into a ewe so that he could have his way with her among the flocks.

There Theophane’s other suitors could not distinguish the ram-god and his consort.

Nephele’s children escaped on the yellow ram over the sea, but Helle fell off and drowned in the strait now named after her, the Hellespont.

The ram spoke to Phrixus, encouraging him and took the boy safely to Colchis (modern day Georgia), on the easternmost shore of the Euxine Sea (Black Sea).

In essence, this act returned the ram to the god Poseidon, and the ram became the constellation Aries.

Phrixus settled in the house of Aeetes, son of Helios the sun god.

Above: Bartolomeo di Giovanni’s King Aeetes, 1487

He hung the Golden Fleece preserved from the ram on an oak in a grove sacred to Ares, the god of war and one of the Twelve Olympians.

Above: Statue of Ares

Above: The Twelve Olympians igures from left to right are – Hestia (goddess of the hearth), with scepter; Hermes (messenger of the gods), with cap and staff; Aphrodite (goddess of love and beauty), with veil; Ares (god of war), with helmet and spear; Demeter (goddess of agriculture), with scepter and wheat sheaf; Hephaestus (god of fire and metal-working), with staff; Hera (queen of the gods), with scepter; Poseidon (god of the sea), with trident; Athena (goddess of wisdom and the arts), with owl and helmet; Zeus (king of the gods), with thunderbolt and staff; Artemis (goddess of the hunt and moon), with bow and quiver; and Apollo (god of the sun), with “kithara.”, Walters Art Museum, Baltimore, Maryland

The fleece was guarded by a never-sleeping dragon with teeth that could become soldiers when planted in the ground.

The dragon was at the foot of the tree on which the fleece was placed.

Pelias was power-hungry and sought to gain dominion over all of Thessaly.

Above: Map of ancient Thessaly

Pelias was the progeny of a union between their shared mother, Tyro (“high born Tyro“), the daughter of Salmoneus, and the sea god Poseidon.

In a bitter feud, he overthrew Aeson (the rightful king), killing all the descendants of Aeson that he could.

He spared his half-brother for unknown reasons.

Aeson’s wife Alcimede I had a newborn son named Jason whom she saved from Pelias by having female attendants cluster around the infant and cry as if he were stillborn.

Fearing that Pelias would eventually notice and kill her son, Alcimede sent him away to be reared by the centaur Chiron.

Above: Eugène Delacroix’s The Education of Achilles, Palais Bourbon, Paris, France

She claimed that she had been having an affair with him all along.

Pelias, fearing that his ill-gotten kingship might be challenged, consulted the Oracle, who warned him to beware of a man wearing only one sandal.

Above: John William Waterhouse’s Consulting the Oracle, 1884

Many years later, Pelias was holding games in honour of Poseidon when the grown Jason arrived in Iolcus, having lost one of his sandals in the River Anauros (“wintry Anauros“) while helping an old woman (actually the goddess Hera in disguise) to cross.

She blessed him, for she knew what Pelias had planned.

Above: Statue of Hera, Louvre Museum, Paris

When Jason entered Iolcus (present-day city of Volos), he was announced as a man wearing only one sandal.

Jason, aware that he was the rightful King, so informed Pelias.

Above: Pelias, King of Iolcos, stops on the steps of a temple as he recognises young Jason by his missing sandal, Roman fresco, Pompeii

Pelias replied:

“To take my throne, which you shall, you must go on a quest to find the Golden Fleece.”

Jason readily accepted this condition.

Above: Pelias (left) sends forth Jason (right), Stories from the Greek Tragedians, Alfred Church, 1879

Jason assembled for his crew, a number of heroes, known as the Argonauts after their ship, the Argo.

Above: Lorenzo Costa’s The Argo, 1500

Most accounts name the ship after her builder, Argus. 

Above: Argus building the Argo, with the help of Athena

Cicero (106 – 43 BCE) suggested that it was named after the “Argives“, a term commonly used by Homer for the Greek people of Argos. 

Above: Marble bust of Marcus Tullius Cicero, Prado Museum, Madrid, Spain

Above: View of modern Argos (Greece) as seen from the ancient theatre

Diodorus Siculus (90 – 30 BCE) reported that some thought the name was derived from an ancient Greek word for swift, which could have indicated that the ship was designed to move quickly.

Above: Fresco of Diodoro Siculus

The isle of Lemnos is situated off the Western coast of Asia Minor (modern day Turkey).

The island was inhabited by a race of women who had killed their husbands.

The women had neglected their worship of Aphrodite, and as a punishment the goddess made the women so foul in stench that their husbands could not bear to be near them.

Above: The isle of Lemnos as seen from space

The men then took concubines from the Thracian mainland opposite.

The spurned women, angry at Aphrodite, killed all the male inhabitants while they slept.

Above: Statue of Aphrodite, Baiae, Syracuse, Italy

The King, Thoas, was saved by Hypsipyle, his daughter, who put him out to sea sealed in a chest from which he was later rescued.

The women of Lemnos lived for a while without men, with Hypsipyle as their Queen.

Above: Hypsipyle saves Thoas

During the visit of the Argonauts the women mingled with the men creating a new “race” called Minyae.

Jason fathered twins with the Queen.

Heracles pressured them to leave as he was disgusted by the antics of the Argonauts.

He had not taken part, which is truly unusual considering the numerous affairs he had with other women.

Above: Francisco de Zurbarán’s Death of Heracles, 1634, Prado Museum, Madrid, Spain

After Lemnos, the Argonauts landed among the Doliones, whose King Cyzicus treated them graciously.

He told them about the land beyond Bear Mountain, but forgot to mention what lived there.

What lived in the land beyond Bear Mountain were the Gegeines, a tribe of six-armed Earthborn giants who wore leather loincloths.

Above: Gegeine, Nuremburg Chronicle, 1493

While most of the crew went into the forest to search for supplies, the Gegeines saw that few Argonauts were guarding the ship and raided it. 

Heracles was among those guarding the ship at the time and managed to kill most of them before Jason and the others returned.

Once some of the other Gegeines were killed, Jason and the Argonauts set sail.

Above: The Argo

The Argonauts departed, losing their bearings and landing again at the same spot that night.

In the darkness, the Doliones took them for enemies and they started fighting each other.

The Argonauts killed many of the Doliones, among them King Cyzicus.

Cyzicus’ wife killed herself.

The Argonauts realized their horrible mistake when dawn came and held a funeral for him.

Above: Bust of Cyzicus, Bandirma Museum, Turkey

Soon, Jason reached the court of Phineus of Salmydessus in Thrace. 

Zeus had sent the Harpies to steal the food put out for Phineus each day.

Jason took pity on the emaciated King and killed the Harpies when they returned.

In other versions, Calais and Zetes chase the Harpies away.

In return for this favour, Phineus revealed to Jason the location of Colchis and how to pass the Symplegades (or The Clashing Rocks) and then they parted.

Above: Phineas and the Harpies

The only way to reach Colchis was to sail through the Symplegades (Clashing Rocks), huge rock cliffs that came together and crushed anything that traveled between them.

Phineus told Jason to release a dove when they approached these Islands, and if the dove made it through, to row with all their might.

If the dove was crushed, he was doomed to fail.

Jason released the dove as advised, which made it through, losing only a few tail feathers.

Seeing this, they rowed strongly and made it through with minor damage at the extreme stern of the ship.

From that time on, the Clashing Rocks were forever joined leaving free passage for others to pass.

Above: Jason releases a dove at the Symplegades, Howard Davies illustration for Charles Kingsley’s The Heroes, 1900

Jason arrived in Colchis (modern Black Sea coast of Georgia) to claim the Fleece as his own.

It was owned by King Aeetes of Colchis.

The Fleece was given to him by Phrixus.

Aeetes promised to give it to Jason only if he could perform three certain tasks.

Presented with the tasks, Jason became discouraged and fell into depression.

Above: Jason and the Argonauts arriving at Colchis, Palais de Versailles, France

However, Hera had persuaded Aphrodite to convince her son Eros to make Aeetes’ daughter, Medea, fall in love with Jason.

As a result, Medea aided Jason in his tasks.

Above: Fresco of Medea, Herucaleum, Ercolano, Italy

First, Jason had to plow a field with fire-breathing oxen, the Khalkotauroi, that he had to yoke himself.

Medea provided an ointment that protected him from the oxen’s flames.

Above: Jean François de Troy’s Jason taming the Khalkotauri, 1743, Barber Institute of Fine Arts, Birmingham, England

Then, Jason sowed the teeth of a dragon into a field.

The teeth sprouted into an army of warriors (spartoi).

Medea had previously warned Jason of this and told him how to defeat this foe.

Before they attacked him, he threw a rock into the crowd.

Unable to discover where the rock had come from, the soldiers attacked and defeated one another.

Above: Leonard Thiry’s Jason ploughing the earth and sowing the dragon’s teeth, 1550

His last task was to overcome the sleepless dragon which guarded the Golden Fleece.

Jason sprayed the dragon with a potion, given by Medea, distilled from herbs.

Above: John William Waterhouse’s Jason and Medea, 1907

The dragon fell asleep, and Jason was able to seize the Golden Fleece.

In some versions of the story, Jason attempts to put the guard serpent to sleep.

The snake is coiled around a column at the base of which is a ram and on top of which is a bird.

Above: Jason and the Snake, Douris Cup, Vatican Museum

He then sailed away with Medea.

Medea distracted her father, who chased them as they fled, by killing her brother Apsyrtus and throwing pieces of his body into the sea.

Aeetes stopped to gather them.

Above: Herbert James Draper’s The Golden Fleece, 1904

In another version, Medea lured Apsyrtus into a trap.

Jason killed him, chopped off his fingers and toes, and buried the corpse.

In any case, Jason and Medea escaped.

Above: Leonard Thiry’s Aeetes Accepts the Dismembered Corpse of Absyrte, 1563, Yale University Art Gallery, New Haven, Connecticut

On the way back to Iolcus, Medea prophesied to Euphemus, the Argo‘s helmsman, that one day he would rule Cyrene.

This came true through Battus, a descendant of Euphemus. 

Above: Euphemus, DC Comics

Zeus, as punishment for the slaughter of Medea’s own brother, sent a series of storms at the Argo and blew it off course.

The Argo then spoke and said that they should seek purification with Circe, a nymph living on the island of Aeaea.

Above: Honor Blackman as Hera, Jason and the Argonauts (1963 movie) – Her face was used as a model for the head on the stern of the ship. The sacred oak of the ship is here represented as the head of a woman with partial extending wings making up the stern of the ship. The painted head is modeled on the goddess Hera in the movie and has the ability to speak to Jason throughout the movie. Argus, the ship builder, said he was inspired to add that feature to the boat when creating it. Filmmakers gave this head the practical effect of being able to open and close when speaking to Jason.

Above: John William Waterhouse’s Circe Offering the Cup to Odysseus

After being cleansed, they continued their journey home.

Above: Map of Italy with Aeaea marked south of Rome, Abraham Ortelius, 1624

Chiron had told Jason that without the aid of Orpheus, the Argonauts would never be able to pass the Sirens — the same Sirens encountered by Odysseus in Homer’s epic poem, the Odyssey.

The Sirens lived on three small, rocky islands called Sirenum scopuli and sang beautiful songs that enticed sailors to come to them, which resulted in the crashing of their ship into the Islands.

Above: Statue of moaning Siren, Myrina, Turkey

When Orpheus heard their voices, he drew his lyre and played music that was more beautiful and louder, drowning out the Sirens’ bewitching songs.

Above: Ancient Roman floor mosaic image of Orpheus, Museo archaeologico regionale di Palermo, Italy

The Argo then came to the Island of Crete, guarded by the bronze man, Talos.

Above: (in red) Location of Crete

As the ship approached, Talos hurled huge stones at the ship, keeping it at bay.

Above: Talos tossing a stone, Cretan silver didrachma, Cabinet des médailles, Paris, France

Talos had one blood vessel which went from his neck to his ankle, bound shut by only one bronze nail (as in metal casting by the lost wax method).

Medea cast a spell on Talos to calm him.

She removed the bronze nail and Talos bled to death.

The Argo was then able to sail on.

Above: The death of Talos depicted on a 5th century BCE krater (vase), Jatta National Archaeological Museum, Ruvo di Puglia, Italy

Thomas Bullfinch has an antecedent to the interaction of Medea and the daughters of Pelias.

Above: Thomas Bullfinch (1796 – 1867)

Jason, celebrating his return with the Golden Fleece, noted that his father was too aged and infirm to participate in the celebrations.

He had seen and been served by Medea’s magical powers.

He asked Medea to take some years from his life and add them to the life of his father.

She did so, but at no such cost to Jason’s life.

Medea withdrew the blood from Aeson’s body and infused it with certain herbs.

Putting it back into his veins, returning vigour to him.

Above: Medea rejuvenates Aeson

Pelias’ daughters saw this and wanted the same service for their father.

Medea, using her sorcery, claimed to Pelias’ daughters that she could make their father smooth and vigorous as a child by chopping him up into pieces and boiling the pieces in a cauldron of water and magical herbs.

She demonstrated this remarkable feat with the oldest ram in the flock, which leapt out of the cauldron as a lamb.

The girls, rather naively, sliced and diced their father and put him in the cauldron.

Medea did not add the magical herbs.

Pelias was dead. 

Above: Georges Moreau de Tours’ The Murder of Pelias by His Daughters, 1878

Pelias’ son, Acastus, drove Jason and Medea into exile for the murder.

The couple settled in Corinth.

Above: View of modern day Corinth, Greece

In Corinth, Jason became engaged to marry Creusa, a daughter of the King of Corinth, to strengthen his political ties.

When Medea confronted Jason about the engagement and cited all the help she had given him, he retorted that it was not she that he should thank, but Aphrodite who made Medea fall in love with him.

Infuriated with Jason for breaking his vow that he would be hers forever, Medea took her revenge by presenting to Creusa a cursed dress, as a wedding gift, that stuck to her body and burned her to death as soon as she put it on.

Above: Presents from Medea to Creusa, Lucanian red-figure bell-krater from Apulia, 390 BCE, Louvre Museum, Paris

Creusa’s father, Creon, burned to death with his daughter as he tried to save her.

Then Medea killed the two boys that she bore to Jason, fearing that they would be murdered or enslaved as a result of their mother’s actions.

Above: Medea murders one of her children, Campanian red-figure neck-amphora from Cumae, 330 BCE, Louvre Museum, Paris

When Jason came to know of this, Medea was already gone.

She fled to Athens in a chariot of dragons sent by her grandfather, the sun god Helios.

Above: Medea on her chariot of dragons, Cleveland Museum, Ohio

Although Jason calls Medea most hateful to gods and men, the fact that the chariot is given to her by Helios indicates that she still has the gods on her side.

As Bernard Knox points out, Medea’s last scene with concluding appearances parallels that of a number of indisputably divine beings in other plays by Euripides.

Just like these gods, Medea “interrupts and puts a stop to the violent action of the human being on the lower level, justifies her savage revenge on the grounds that she has been treated with disrespect and mockery, takes measures and gives orders for the burial of the dead, prophesies the future,” and “announces the foundation of a cult.”

Above: Bernard Knox (1914 – 2010)

Later Jason and Peleus, father of the hero Achilles, attacked and defeated Acastus, reclaiming the throne of Iolcus for himself once more.

Jason’s son, Thessalus, then became King.

As a result of breaking his vow to love Medea forever, Jason lost his favor with Hera and died lonely and unhappy.

He was asleep under the stern of the rotting Argo when it fell on him, killing him instantly.

Above: Jason and the Argo

Pindar (518 – 438 BCE) employed the quest for the Golden Fleece in his 4th Pythian Ode (written in 462 BC), though the Fleece is not in the foreground.

Above: Bust of Pindar, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples, Italy

When Aeetes challenges Jason to yoke the fire-breathing bulls, the Fleece is the prize:

Let the King do this, the captain of the ship!

Let him do this, I say, and have for his own the immortal coverlet, the fleece, glowing with matted skeins of gold.”

Above: Jason claims the Golden Fleece

Several euhemeristic attempts to interpret the Golden Fleece “realistically” as reflecting some physical cultural object or alleged historical practice have been made.

For example, in the 20th century, some scholars suggested that the story of the Golden Fleece signified the bringing of sheep husbandry to Greece from the east.

From Turkey?

In other readings, scholars theorized it referred to golden grain or to the sun.

A more widespread interpretation relates the myth of the fleece to a method of washing gold from streams, which was well attested (but only from c. 5th century BCE) in the region of Georgia to the east of the Black Sea.

Sheep fleeces, sometimes stretched over a wooden frame, would be submerged in the stream, and gold flecks borne down from upstream placer deposits would collect in them.

The fleeces would be hung in trees to dry before the gold was shaken or combed out.

Alternatively, the fleeces would be used on washing tables in alluvial mining of gold or on washing tables at deep gold mines.

Judging by the very early gold objects from a range of cultures, washing for gold is a very old human activity.

Strabo describes the way in which gold could be washed:

It is said that in their country gold is carried down by the mountain torrents, and that the barbarians obtain it by means of perforated troughs and fleecy skins, and that this is the origin of the myth of the Golden Fleece — unless they call them Iberians, by the same name as the western Iberians, from the gold mines in both countries.

Above: Strabo (64 BCE – 24 CE)

Another interpretation is based on the references in some versions to purple or purple-dyed cloth.

The purple dye extracted from the purple dye murex snail and related species was highly prized in ancient times.

Clothing made of cloth dyed with Tyrian purple was a mark of great wealth and high station (hence the phrase “royal purple“).

The association of gold with purple is natural and occurs frequently in literature.

Above: Purple-dyed fabric and the shells of the spiny dye murex sea snail

The following are the chief among the various interpretations of the Fleece:

  1. It represents royal power.
  2. It represents the flayed skin of Krios (‘Ram‘), companion of Phrixus.
  3. It represents a book on alchemy.
  4. It represents a technique of writing in gold on parchment.
  5. It represents a form of placer mining practiced in Georgia.
  6. It represents the forgiveness of the Gods.
  7. It represents a rain cloud.
  8. It represents a land of golden grain.
  9. It represents the spring-hero.
  10. It represents the sea reflecting the sun.
  11. It represents the gilded prow of Phrixus’ ship.
  12. It represents a breed of sheep in ancient Georgia.
  13. It represents the riches imported from the East.
  14. It represents the wealth or technology of Colchis.
  15. It was a covering for a cult image of Zeus in the form of a ram.
  16. It represents a fabric woven from sea silk.
  17. It is about a voyage from Greece, through the Mediterranean, across the Atlantic to the Americas.
  18. It represents trading fleece dyed murex-purple for Georgian gold.

Above: Jason claims the Golden Fleece

And what does it represent to me?

Sadness.

We live in a material world where man’s dominion over all other creatures great and small infers a need to exploit nature for possible profit.

The exploitation of the outdoors to improve our living conditions indoors.

We call sheep animals, thus negating the possibility that they possess feelings and intelligence and, maybe, souls, such as we humans lay claim.

Sheep can be very companionable and amazingly compassionate.

(Please refrain from sheep shagging jokes here, pundits.)

Sheep, like humans, can be highly intelligent and be very dim.

Sheep always run uphill if they sense danger.

Sheep are usually gentle and unaggressive.

Most sheep have long, wooly tails to keep them warm.

Sheep can live on grass alone, but like other things too such as tree leaves and apples.

A sheep’s thick coat protects it from heat and cold.

Sheep can stand very cold weather better than cows, pigs or hens.

Some sheep have good powers of concentration similar to that shown by humans engaged in watching television.

Sheep prefer running water to still water to drink.

Sheep have very long memories.

Sheep play almost continually when they are young.

Are sheep so unlike humans after all?

I am not suggesting we abandon the use or consumption of animals simply because we have created a system of animal husbandry that has grown dependent on this.

What I am suggesting is consideration and compassion towards all God’s creation of which we all are part of this symbiotic circle of life.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Emilie Kip Baker, Stories of Old Greece and Rome / Burak Coşan, “Turkish government set to distribute 300 sheep to every farmer“, Hürriyet Daily News, 14 February 2018 / Sibel Alapala Demirhan, “Sheep farming in Uşak, Turkey: Economic structure, problems and solutions“, Saudi Journal of Biological Studies, Volume 26, Issue 2, February 2016 / Bernard Logan, “Australian shearers pack it in over sheer size of sheep“, The Times, 8 September 2020 / Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows / http://www.baauki.com / http://www.sheep101.com

Swiss Miss and the Waters of Oblivion

Eskisehir, Turkey, Friday 28 May 2021

Freedom: to be at liberty, unconfined, unfettered, independent.

Beatles-singles-freeasabird.jpg

Papers parrot the President’s prose.

The People’s Alliance (Cumhur İttifakı) is an electoral alliance in Turkey, established in February 2018 between the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) and the opposition Nationalist Movement Party (MHP).

Justice and Development Party (Turkey) logo.svg

Above: Adalet ve Kalkınma Partisi (AKP) logo

MHP logo Turkey.png
Above: Milliyetçi Hareket Partisi (MHP) logo

The Alliance was formed to contest the 2018 general election and brings together the political parties supporting the re-election of President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan.

Recep Tayyip Erdoğan 2019 (cropped).jpg
Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Its main rival is the Nation Alliance, which was originally created by four opposition parties – namely the Republican People’s Party (CHP), the Good Party (İYİ), the Felicity Party (SP), and the Democratic Party (DP) – in 2018 and was re-established in 2019.

Cumhuriyet Halk Partisi Logo.svg
Above: Cumhuriyet Halk Partisi (CHP) logo

Logo of the Good Party.svg
Above: İyi Parti logo

Saadet Partisi Logo.svg
Above: Saadet Partisi logo

Logo of the Democratic Party (Turkey, 2007).svg
Above: Demokrat Parti logo

According to today’s Hürriyet Daily News, the People’s Alliance will introduce its own constitutional draft to people’s discretion in the absence of a consensus reached among political parties, President Erdoğan has said, vowing a new civilian charter will raise Turkey to the highest democracy level in the world.

Istanbul -Hürriyet- 2000 by RaBoe 02.jpg

We are determined to present our own constitutional draft to the discretion of our people should compromise with other parties can’t be reached“, Erdoğan said at a meeting with provincial heads of the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) yesterday (27 May 2021).

Map of Turkish Provinces. | Download Scientific Diagram
Above: Provincial map of Turkey

Erdoğan convened his provincial leaders on Yassi Ada, an island on the Marmara Sea, on the occasion of the 61st anniversary of Turkey’s first military coup d’état that had ousted the Democrat Party from the government.

Yassıada, Demokrasi ve Özgürlükler Adası oldu (27 Mayıs darbesinin  yıldönümünde açılıyor) | NTV
Above: Yassi Ada

Former Democrat Party leader Prime Minister Adnan Menderes and two other senior ministers were tried by a military court established in 1960 and were executed on charges of violation of the Constitution and other crimes in September 1961.

The island is now called “Democracy and Freedoms Island” and hosts events devoted to Turkey’s democratization process.

Adnan Menderes VI. Yasama Dönemi.jpg
Above: Adnan Menderes (1899 – 1961)

Denouncing all the past and recent attempts to undermine Turkey’s democratic evolution, including the 15 July 2016 coup attempt at the hands of the Fethullahçı Terör Örgütü (FETÖ) (the Gülen movement), Erdoğan stressed the best way to nix such interventions was to strengthen people’s will.

Fethullah Gülen 2016.jpg
Above: Fethullah Gülen

Erdoğan described the current executive presidential system as a tool to boost people’s will while stressing that a new civilian constitution would further cement it.

Above: Court of Justice building, Istanbul

Our partners at the People’s Alliance, the Nationalist Movement Party (MHP) and the Great Union Party (BBP) are carrying out their own works.

Logo of the Great Unity Party.svg
Above: Logo of the Great Unity Party (Büyük Birlik Partisi)(BBP)

I have received the MHP’s draft from the party chairman.“, Erdoğan recalled, referring to the MHP’s 100-article constitutional draft outlined by Chairman Devlet Bahçeli early in May.

Devlet Bahçeli ve Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu (cropped).jpg

Above: Devlet Bahçeli

We are also about to conclude our work,” Erdoğan informed, expressing his wish to produce a joint text after deliberations with the MHP and the BBP.

A new constitution will be much better if all the political parties contribute and agree on a single text, Erdogan stressed, vowing that this would move Turkey to the highest level of democracy in the world.

Flag of Turkey
Above: Flag of Turkey

But in the absence of such compromise, the People’s Alliance will move on its own path and introduce it to public opinion.

In earlier statements, Erdoğan said a constitutional draft would be ready by the first quarter of 2022.

The AKP and the MHP have no majority in the Turkish parliament to introduce a constitutional amendment even through a referendum.

They need the support of at least 24 lawmakers from other political parties to reach the required 360 votes.

Coat of arms or logo
Above: Seal of the Turkish Parliament

Erdoğan also blamed the main opposition Republican People’s Party (CHP) for backing the undemocratic intentions that caused the suspension of democracy in history.

Main opposition Republican People’s Party (CHP) leader Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu has said he stands by the citizens of Turkey that are suffering problems.

He was responding to criticism made by Erdogan on 27 March.

Erdoğan accused the CHP of being “fascists“, “thieves” and “walking on the same path as terrorists“.

Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu cropped.jpg
Above: Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu

Kılıçdaroğlu also criticized Erdoğan for “using” former Prime Minister Adnan Menderes for his “political interests“.

Do not use Adnan Menderes in your perception games!

On this occasion, I commemorate Adnan Menderes with mercy.”, Kılıçdaroğlu said.

Above: Adnan Menderes

I find myself wondering two things as I read today’s headlines:

  • Is this really the best time to work on the nation’s Constitution, considering Turkey is still embroiled in many social and economic problems yet unresolved as well as being in the midst of a global pandemic?

  • How actually free are people in Turkey?

Lady Liberty under a blue sky (cropped).jpg
Above: Statue of Liberty

How free did Elhan Atifi feel?

A man from Afghanistan travelled some 4,500 kilometres illegally from his home country to Turkey and killed his estranged wife in 2018.

Elhan Atifi married Muhammedullah Raihan in 2015.

However, she was subjected to domestic violence for two years and sought help from Afghan officials to no avail.

Son dakika: Cani 4500 km öteden geldi! İstanbul'da katletti - Son Dakika  Haberler Milliyet
Above: Elhan Atifi and the Istanbul – Kabul route

As her efforts with local police yielded no results, Atifi left home and Afghanistan in 2017 to join her mother living in Vienna.

On her way to Austria, she stopped in Turkey.

Afiti rented a house in Istanbul’s Sultangazi district and started to work.

İstanbul Sultangazi Gezi yazısı planı rehberi örneği turları butik oteller
Above: Aerial view of Sultangazi district, Istanbul

Raihan traced her location on social media.

He tried to travel to Turkey via Iran.

When his attempt failed, Raihan took a 4,500-kilometer-long journey to find Atifi.

Flag of Afghanistan
Above: Flag of Afghanistan

He illegally crossed the Iranian and Turkish borders and finally reached Istanbul.

He contacted his estranged wife to convince her to reunite.

Atifi finally gave in and told him where she lived on the night of 16 January 2018.

Afganistan'lı Elhan Atıfı İstanbul'a kaçtı! Kocası tarafından canice  katledildi
Above: Muhammedullah Raihan (left) and Elhan Atifi

The next day Raihan hit her in the head with an iron bar and strangled her with a cord.

Raihan contacted the smugglers who helped him come to Turkey.

He was arrested while preparing to cross the Iranian border.

Flag of Iran
Above: Flag of Iran

A lawsuit was opened against him, with prosecutors seeking aggravated life sentence for the Afghan man.

In the first hearing of the trial yesterday (27 May) in Istanbul, Raihan said that Atifi’s leaving him was an embarassment for him.

He was angry when he found that she had a boyfriend, Raihan told the court, claiming that she attacked him.

I pushed her when she attacked me and she bumped her hand on the stove.

I strangled her with a cord when she started to scream.

I left the house when she passed out.“, he said.

The court postponed the trial to a later date, while an attorney from the Family and Social Services Ministry requested to take part in the lawsuit. 

She was 27 when she was killed.

2 Sozcu Staff Remanded İn Custody By Istanbul Court
Above: Istanbul Criminal Court

The Four Freedoms were goals articulated by US President Franklin D. Roosevelt on Monday 6 January 1941.

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Above: Franklin D. Roosevelt (1882 – 1945)

In an address known as the Four Freedoms Speech (technically the 1941 State of the Union Address), he proposed four fundamental freedoms that people “everywhere in the world” ought to enjoy:

  1. Freedom of speech
  2. Freedom of worship
  3. Freedom from want
  4. Freedom from fear

Above: FDR Memorial Wall, Washington DC

As I have written before, the Washington-based think tank Freedom House that hands out grades to countries according to the state of their civil liberties and political rights, scratches its head in perplexity when it comes to Turkey.

The picture of Turkey is a confusing one, “an everlasting dichtonomy between democratic progress and resistance to reform”.

Location of Turkey

Whether Turkey is a democracy that could be better or an autocracy that could be worse, nevertheless the nation should not have to fear porous borders or domestic violence, should not have hungry residents or those who fear illness that may not be properly treated or ignorance that cannot be educated, should not fear to express difference of belief, should not fear repercussions for expressing one’s opinions or creativity or sexuality, heritage or language.

Above: Sphinx Gate, Hattusa, former Hittite Empire, Turkey

According to Freedom House’s Freedom in the World 2020 Report:

Freedom House.svg

President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan’s Justice and Development Party (AKP) has ruled Turkey since 2002.

After initially passing some liberalizing reforms, the AKP government showed growing contempt for political rights and civil liberties, and its authoritarian nature was fully consolidated following a 2016 coup attempt that triggered a dramatic crackdown on perceived opponents of the leadership.

Constitutional changes adopted in 2017 concentrated power in the hands of the President.

While Erdoğan exerts tremendous power in Turkish politics, opposition victories in 2019 municipal elections demonstrated that his authority was not unlimited.

Prosecutions and harassment campaigns against opposition politicians and prominent members of civil society continues.

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Above: Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Selahattin Demirtaş, leader of the Kurdish-oriented People’s Democratic Party (HDP), remains imprisoned on new charges of terrorism despite calls for his release.

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Above: Selahattin Demirta ş

Canan Kaftancıoğlu, the Istanbul chair of the opposition Republican People’s Party (CHP), was convicted in September on charges that included insulting President Erdoğan and spreading terrorist propaganda, though she remains free pending appeal.

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Above: Canan Kaftancıoğlu

In December 2019, the European Court of Human Rights (ECHR) called for the release of philanthropist Osman Kavala, who was charged with attempting to overthrow the government for supporting a 2013 protest.

Despite the ruling, he remains imprisoned.

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Above: Osman Kavala

In October, Turkey launched a new military offensive into northern Syria, and those who criticized the campaign were subject to arrest and harassment.

That same month, President Erdoğan announced a plan to resettle as many as one million Syrian refugees in the captured areas.

Flag of Syria

Above: Flag of Syria

The President is directly elected for up to two five-year terms, but is eligible to run for a third term if Parliament calls for early elections during the president’s second term.

If no candidate wins an absolute majority of votes, a second round of voting between the top two candidates takes place.

President Erdoğan has retained a dominant role in government since moving from the post of Prime Minister to the presidency in 2014.

A constitutional referendum passed in 2017 instituted a new presidential system of government, expanding presidential powers and eliminating the role of Prime Minister, effective after the snap presidential vote in June 2018.

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Above: Emblem of the Presidency of Turkey

The June 2018 presidential election, which was originally scheduled for November 2019, was moved up at Erdoğan’s behest, as he claimed an early election was necessary to implement the new presidential system.

The election was held while Turkey was still under a state of emergency, which was put into place in 2016 after an abortive coup attempt.

Erdoğan, who leads the AKP, won a second term in June 2018, earning 52.6% of the vote in the first round.

Muharrem İnce of the CHP won 30.6%.

Selahattin Demirtaş of the HDP won 8.4%, while Meral Aksenser of the nationalist İyi (Good) Party won 7.3%.

Other candidates won the remaining 1.1%.

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Above: Parliament of Turkey – (purple) HDP: 67 seats / (red) CHP: 146 seats / (blue) IYI: 43 seats / (yellow) AKP: 245 seats / (brown) MHP: 49 seats

Since Erdoğan’s first term ended ahead of schedule, he is eligible for a third term, and could hold office through 2028 if he is re-elected again.

Election observers with the Organization for Security and Co-operation in Europe (OSCE) criticized the poll, reporting that electoral regulators often deferred to the ruling AKP and that state-run media favored the party in its coverage.

The OSCE additionally noted that Erdoğan repeatedly accused his opponents of supporting terrorism during the campaign.

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Above: Logo of the Organization for Security and Co-operation in Europe (OSCE)

Muharrem İnce, the CHP candidate, also criticized the vote, calling it fundamentally unfair.

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Above: Muharrem Ince

Selahattin Demirtaş, the HDP’s candidate, campaigned from prison, having been charged with terrorism offenses in 2016.

Turkey extends Greek soldiers detention | Ahval
Above: Edirne Prison

The 2017 constitutional referendum enlarged the unicameral parliament, the Grand National Assembly, from 550 seats to 600, and increased term lengths for its members from four to five years.

These changes took effect with the June 2018 elections.

Members are elected by proportional representation, and political parties must earn at least 10% of the national vote to hold seats in parliament.

According to the OSCE, the 2018 elections were marred by a number of flaws, including misuse of state resources by the ruling party to gain an electoral advantage, and an intimidation campaign against the HDP and other opposition parties.

Media coverage of the campaign, particularly in state-run outlets, definitively favored the AKP.

Reports of irregularities such as proxy voting were more prevalent in the south and southeast.

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Above: Results by province of the 2018 Turkish presidential election

The People’s Alliance, which had formed in February 2018 and included the AKP and the far-right Nationalist Movement Party (MHP), won a total of 344 seats with 53% of the vote, while the CHP won 146 seats with 22%.

The HDP won 11% and 67 seats, and the İyi (Good) Party entered parliament for the first time with 10% of the vote and 43 seats.

In April 2018, two HDP Members of Parliament were removed from office due to criminal convictions for “insulting a public employee” and membership in a terrorist organization, respectively, bringing to 11 the total number of HDP deputies ousted as a result of criminal convictions or absenteeism caused by imprisonment.

The HDP also reported that 394 party members were detained during the campaign.

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Above: Logo of the People’s Democratic Party (Halkların Demokratik Partisi)(HDP)

The Supreme Electoral Council (YSK)’s electoral judges oversee voting procedures.

In 2016, Parliament passed a judicial reform bill that allowed AKP-dominated judicial bodies to replace most YSK judges.

Since the reform bill was enacted, the YSK has increasingly deferred to the AKP in its rulings, most notably in May 2019, when it ordered a rerun of the Istanbul mayoral election.

The CHP’s candidate narrowly won the race in March, but the YSK scrapped the result based on selective technicalities, claiming that some polling documentation went unsigned and that a number of ballot officials were not civil servants as required by law.

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Above: Logo of the Supreme Electoral Council (YSK)

The electoral authority’s decision was met with derision, with CHP candidate Ekrem İmamoğlu calling it “treacherous.”

The European Parliament rapporteur on Turkey, Kati Piri, warned that the decision threatened the credibility of Turkey’s democratic institutions.

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Above: Kati Piri

A CHP lawmaker claimed in a television interview that the AKP had threatened judges with imprisonment if they did not call for a rerun.

Despite the annulment of the first election’s results, İmamoğlu won the second vote for the mayoralty that June, increasing his margin of victory over the AKP candidate.

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Above: Ekrem İmamoğlu

Turkey maintains a multiparty system, with five parties represented in Parliament.

However, the rise of new parties is inhibited by the 10% vote threshold for parliamentary representation — an unusually high bar by global standards.

The 2018 electoral law permits the formation of alliances to contest elections, allowing parties that would not meet the threshold alone to secure seats through an alliance.

Parties can be disbanded for endorsing policies that are not in agreement with constitutional parameters, and this rule has been applied in the past to Islamist and Kurdish-oriented parties.

After a ceasefire with the militant Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK) collapsed in 2015, the government accused the HDP of serving as a proxy for the group, which is designated as a terrorist organization.

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Above: Flag of the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (Partîya Karkerên Kurdistanê) (PKK)

A 2016 constitutional amendment facilitated the removal of parliamentary immunity, and many of the HDP’s leaders have since been jailed on terrorism charges.

In September 2018, Demirtaş, the HDP’s presidential candidate, was sentenced to four years and eight months in prison for a 2013 speech praising the PKK in the context of peace negotiations.

In November 2018, the ECHR ordered Demirtaş’s immediate release, finding that his arrest was politically motivated and his nearly two-year-long pretrial detention was unreasonable.

As of 2019 he remained in prison on new terrorism charges that could lead to a 142-year prison term.

Since coming to power in 2002, the ruling AKP has asserted partisan control over the YSK, the judiciary, the police, and the media.

The party has aggressively used these institutional tools to weaken or co-opt political rivals in recent years, severely limiting the capacity of the opposition to build support among voters and gain power through elections.

The Turkish government has also resorted to arresting and charging opposition leaders, accusing of them of offenses varying from terrorism to insulting the President.

The HDP has regularly been subjected to this tactic.

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Above: Turkish National Police (Emniyet Genel Müdürlüğü) logo

While Sırrı Süreyya Önder, a party deputy in Ankara, was released in October 2019 on the orders of the Constitutional Court, leader Selahattin Demirtaş and party official Figen Yüksekdağ both remained in prison as the year ended.

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Above: Sırrı Süreyya Önder

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Above: Figen Yüksekdağ

Canan Kaftancıoğlu, the chair of the CHP in Istanbul, was given a prison sentence of almost 10 years in September, after she was charged with insulting the President and spreading terrorist propaganda.

She spoke in solidarity with the 2021 Boğaziçi University (Istanbul) protests (against the university rector being chosen by the government and not by the university) and was called by Erdogan a terrorist of the Revolutionary People’s Liberation Front.

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Above: 2021 Boğaziçi University protests (Ongoing since 4 January 2021)

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Above: Flag of the Revolutionary People’s Liberation Front (Devrimci Halk Kurtuluş Partisi-Cephesi) (DHKP)

This led to a criminal complaint against the President by Kaftancıoğlu, who was then charged with blasphemy.

Kaftancıoğlu, who managed her party’s campaign in Istanbul during the 2019 municipal elections, called the charges politically motivated and remained free pending appeal.

Despite the AKP’s ability to limit the success of opposition parties, it lost ground in the municipal elections, with the CHP winning important mayoral races in Ankara and Istanbul.

By the time the municipal elections were completed, opposition parties controlled nine of Turkey’s ten largest urban areas.

Benim Babam Bir Kahramandı , Canan Kaftancıoğlu - Fiyatı & Satın Al | idefix

Above: Canan Kaftancioğlu, Benim Babam Bir Kahramandi (My Father Was a Hero)

The civilian leadership has asserted its control over the military, which has a history of intervening in political affairs.

This greater control was a factor behind the failure of the 2016 coup attempt, and the government has since purged thousands of military personnel suspected of disloyalty.

However, the AKP’s institutional dominance threatens to make the state itself an extension of the Party that can be used to change political outcomes.

Above: In memory of those who died during the coup attempt, a public space in Samsun, as in many other cities, was named 15 July Martyrs Park.

Critics charge that the AKP favors Sunni Muslims, pointing to an overhaul of the education system that favored Islamic education in secular schools and promoted the rise of religious schools in the 2010s.

The AKP also expanded the Directorate of Religious Affairs, using this institution as a channel for political patronage.

Among other functions, the party uses the Directorate to deliver government-friendly sermons in mosques in Turkey, as well as in countries where the Turkish diaspora is present.

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Above: Logo of the Directorate of Religious Affairs (Diyanet İşleri Başkanlığı)

The non-Sunni Alevi minority, as well as non-Muslim religious communities, have long faced political discrimination.

While religious and ethnic minorities hold some seats in Parliament, particularly within the CHP and HDP, the government’s crackdown on opposition parties has seriously harmed political rights and electoral opportunities for Kurds and other minorities.

Turkey-1683 (2215851579).jpg
Above: Alevism (Turkish: AlevilikAnadolu Aleviliği or Kızılbaşlık / Kurdish: Elewîtî‎) is a local Islamic tradition, whose adherents follow the mystical Alevi Islamic teachings of Haji Bektash Veli.

Differing from Sunnism, Alevis have no binding religious dogmas, and teachings are passed on by a spiritual leader.
They acknowledge the Six Articles of Faith of Islam, but may deviate regarding their interpretation.

Thus, Alevi teachings integrated into a local Turkic world view, not to a global interpretation of Islam.

Alevis are found primarily in Turkey among ethnic Turks and Kurds, and make up approximately 15% of the population in Turkey.

They are the second-largest Islamic denomination in Turkey, with the Sunni Hanafi Islamic denomination being the largest.

Haci Bektas Veli was a mystic, humanist and a philosopher who lived approximately from 1248-1337 in Anatolia (central Turkey).

His teachings had great impact on the Anatolian cultures.

Haci Bektas Veli’s characters are his humanistic teachings and his mystic personality. 

Women remain underrepresented in politics and in leadership positions in government, though they won a slightly larger share of seats — 104, or about 17% — in the 2018 parliamentary elections.

While the AKP’s policies and rhetoric often do not serve women’s interests, opposition parties, notably the HDP, espouse the expansion of rights for women and minorities.

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Above: Women protesting, Istanbul, 29 July 2017

LGBT+ people have little representation in Turkish politics, though a small number of openly gay candidates have run for office.

Sedef Çakmak of the CHP was the first openly LGBT+ candidate to take part in a city council race.

She won her seat in Beşiktaş, a district of Istanbul, in 2014.

The first openly gay parliamentary candidate was backed by the HDP in the 2015 general elections, but did not win a seat.

Despite these efforts, LGBT+ people remain politically marginalized, and the government has used public morality laws to restrict the formation of organizations to advocate for their interests.

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Above: Sedet Çakmak

The new presidential system instituted in June 2018 vastly expanded the executive’s already substantial authority.

With the elimination of the Prime Minister’s post, President Erdoğan now controls all executive functions.

He can rule by decree, appoint judges and other officials who are supposed to provide oversight, and order investigations into any civil servant, among other powers.

Erdoğan and his inner circle make all meaningful policy decisions, and the capacity of Parliament to provide a check on his rule is, in practice, seriously limited.

The state of emergency, which gave the president the authority to suspend civil liberties and issue decrees without oversight from the Constitutional Court, was formally lifted in July 2018 after two years in effect.

However, analysts argued that the change would do little to curb the continued consolidation and abuse of executive power.

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Above: Logo of the Constitutional Court of Turkey (Anayasa Mahkemesi)

Corruption — including money laundering, bribery, and collusion in the allocation of government contracts — remains a major problem, even at the highest levels of government.

Enforcement of anti-corruption laws is inconsistent, and Turkey’s anti-corruption agencies are generally ineffective, contributing to a culture of impunity.

The purge carried out since the failed 2016 coup attempt has greatly increased opportunities for corruption, given the mass expropriation of targeted businesses and nongovernmental organizations (NGOs).

Billions of dollars in seized assets are managed by government-appointed trustees, further augmenting the intimate ties between the government and friendly businesses.

Absturz der türkischen Währung nicht aufzuhalten | Wirtschaft | DW |  07.08.2020

In January 2018, Turkish banker Mehmet Hakan Atilla was found guilty in a US court of helping Iran evade sanctions, and he was given a 32-month prison sentence that May.

During the trial, Turkish-Iranian businessman Reza Zarrab testified that senior Turkish officials had accepted bribes as part of the scheme, and that Erdoğan himself approved some of the bribes during his tenure as Prime Minister.

Reza Zarrab: Türkei lässt Vermögen des Goldhändlers beschlagnahmen - DER  SPIEGEL
Above: Reza Zarrab

Erdoğan unsuccessfully lobbied the US government not to continue in its prosecution of Atilla.

In July 2019, Atilla completed his sentence, with credit for time served in pre-trial detention, and was deported to Turkey.

In October, he was appointed General Manager of the Istanbul Stock Exchange despite his conviction in the United States.

Hakan Atilla'nın yeni görevi belli oldu! - Ekonomi haberleri
Above: Mehmet Hakan Atilla

The political and legal environment created by the government’s purge and 2016 – 2018 state of emergency has made ordinary democratic oversight efforts all but impossible.

In 2016, the Council of Europe criticized the state of emergency for bestowing “almost unlimited discretionary powers” on the government.

Although Turkey has an access to information law on the books, in practice the government lacks transparency and arbitrarily withholds information on the activities of state officials and institutions.

External monitors like civil society groups and independent journalists are subject to arrest and prosecution if they attempt to expose government wrongdoing.

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The mainstream media, especially television broadcasters, reflect government positions and routinely carry identical headlines.

Although some independent newspapers and websites continue to operate, they face tremendous political pressure and are routinely targeted for prosecution.

More than 150 media outlets were closed in the months after the attempted coup in 2016.

In August 2019, Parliament further limited media freedom by placing online video services under the purview of the High Council for Broadcasting (RTÜK), the country’s broadcast regulator.

As a result, online video producers must obtain licenses to broadcast in Turkey, even if they operate abroad.

The RTÜK’s members are appointed by Parliament, and are almost exclusively members of the AKP and its political ally, the MHP.

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Above: Logo of the Radio and Television High Council (RTÜK)

New outlet closures and arrests of journalists occur regularly, with an increase during the Turkish incursion into Syria in October 2019.

The Committee to Protect Journalists reported that 47 journalists were imprisoned as of December.

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A group of 13 journalists and executives working for the independent newspaper Cumhuriyet were retried and convicted on charges of terrorism in November 2019, even though their original conviction was overturned by the Court of Cassation.

The group remained free pending an appeal at the end of the year.

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Above: Logo of the Court of Cassation (High Court of Appeals) (Türkiye Cumhuriyet Yargıtay Başkanlığı)

Human Rights Watch noted that Kurdish journalists were disproportionately targeted by the authorities, and that reporting from within the predominantly Kurdish southeast was heavily restricted.

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The Turkish government used national security powers to ban Wikipedia in 2017, saying the website contained terrorist content.

While an Ankara court upheld the ban that same year, the Constitutional Court overturned it in a late December 2019 ruling, finding that the original decision violated freedom of expression.

Türkçe Vikipedi - Vikipedi

While the Constitution guarantees freedom of religion, the public sphere is increasingly dominated by Sunni Islam.

Alevi places of worship are not recognized as such by the government, meaning they cannot access the subsidies available to Sunni mosques.

The number of religious schools that promote Sunni Islam has increased under the AKP, and the Turkish public education curriculum includes compulsory religious education courses; while adherents of non-Muslim faiths are generally exempted from these courses, Alevis and nonbelievers have difficulty opting out of them.

Three non-Muslim religious groups — Jews, Orthodox Christians, and Armenian Christians — are officially recognized.

However, disputes over property and prohibitions on training of clergy remain problems for these communities, and the rights of unrecognized religious minorities are more limited.

Academic freedom, never well respected in Turkey, was weakened further by the AKP’s purge of government and civil society after the 2016 coup attempt.

Schools tied to Fethullah Gülen — the Islamic scholar whose movement was blamed for the coup attempt and deemed a terrorist organization in Turkey — have been closed.

Thousands of academics have been summarily dismissed for perceived leftist, Gülenist, or PKK sympathies.

In July 2018, President Erdoğan issued a decree giving him the power to appoint rectors at both public and private universities.

The government and university administrations now routinely intervene to prevent academics from researching sensitive topics, and political pressure has encouraged self-censorship among many scholars.

Academics who openly discuss sensitive or politically charged subjects have found themselves targeted by the government.

In 2016, more than 2,000 academics signed an open letter calling on Turkey to stop a military offensive in the Kurdish southeast.

The government dismissed at least 400 participants in response, and 204 were given prison sentences by late 2019.

However, the Constitutional Court ruled in favor of a group of purged academics in a July 2019 decision.

Some of the educators who were still on trial for their involvement were acquitted in a series of lower court rulings in September as a result.

Above: Main entrance gate of Istanbul University, the Republic’s first university

Many Turkish citizens continue to voice their opinions openly with friends and relations, but more exercise caution about what they post online or say in public.

While not every utterance that is critical of the government will be punished, the arbitrariness of prosecutions, which often result in pretrial detention and carry the risk of lengthy prison terms, is increasingly creating an atmosphere of self-censorship.

In October 2019, authorities detained hundreds of people for social media posts criticizing the latest Turkish military offensive into Syria.

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Above: Logo of Information and Communication Technologies Authority (BTK)

Although freedom of assembly is theoretically guaranteed in Turkish law, authorities have routinely disallowed gatherings by government critics on security grounds in recent years, while pro-government rallies are allowed to proceed.

Restrictions have been imposed on May Day celebrations by leftist and labor groups, protests by purge victims, and opposition party meetings.

Police use force to break up unsanctioned protests.

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Above: Gezi Park (Istanbul) Protests on 6 June 2013, with the slogan “Do not submit!

Commemorations by Saturday Mothers, a group that protests forced disappearances that took place during a 1980 coup d’état, have been routinely broken up by police.

Many participants, including elderly people, have been arrested.

In August 2018, police stopped the group’s assembly in Istanbul’s Galatasaray Square, using tear gas and arresting participants.

The government claimed that Saturday Mothers was connected to the PKK, an allegation the group denied.

Saturday Mothers was not allowed to return to the Square in 2019, and has held sit-ins in a local human rights office instead.

Saturday Mothers” of Turkey: in the pursuit of justice / Turkey / Areas /  Homepage - Osservatorio Balcani e Caucaso Transeuropa

The government has also targeted LGBT+ events in recent years. Istanbul’s pride parade, which once hosted tens of thousands of participants, was banned for the fifth consecutive year in 2019.

Participants who tried to march faced tear gas and rubber bullets when police dispersed their gathering.

Rallies were also banned in Ankara and the coastal city of Izmir.

Turkish police disperse banned LGBT march with tear gas - ABC News

The government has cracked down on NGOs since the 2016 coup attempt, summarily shutting down at least 1,500 foundations and associations and seizing their assets.

The targeted groups worked on issues including torture, domestic violence, and aid to refugees and internally displaced persons.

NGO leaders also face routine harassment, arrests, and prosecutions for carrying out their activities.

Osman Kavala, a prominent civil society leader and philanthropist, was arrested in 2017 and charged in early 2019 with attempting to overthrow the government by supporting a protest in Istanbul’s Gezi Park in 2013.

The indictment was heavily criticized by human rights organizations for lacking credible evidence.

Kavala and 15 other defendants from Turkish civil society were finally put on trial in June 2019.

In December 2019, the European Court of Human Rights (ECHR) ruled that Kavala’s detention was unjustified and called for his release, but he remained behind bars awaiting a verdict as the year ended.

Türkische Justiz will für Osman Kavala lebenslange Haft | Aktuell Europa |  DW | 08.10.2020
Above: Osman Kavala

Union activity, including the right to strike, is limited by law and in practice.

Anti-union activities by employers are common, and legal protections are poorly enforced.

A system of representation threshold requirements make it difficult for unions to secure collective-bargaining rights.

Trade unions and professional organizations have suffered from mass arrests and dismissals associated with the state of emergency and the general breakdown in freedoms of expression, assembly, and association.

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Above: Logo of the Confederation of Turkish Trade Unions (Türkiye İşçi Sendikaları Konfederasyonu) (TÜRK – IS)

The appointment of thousands of loyalist judges, the potential professional costs of ruling against the executive in a major case, and the effects of the post-coup purge have all severely weakened judicial independence in Turkey.

More than 4,200 judges and prosecutors were removed in the 2016 coup attempt’s aftermath.

The establishment of the new presidential system in June 2018 also increased executive control over the judiciary.

Under this new structure, members of the Board of Judges and Prosecutors (HSYK), a powerful body that oversees judicial appointments and disciplinary measures, are now appointed by Parliament and the President, rather than by members of the judiciary itself.

Though the judiciary’s autonomy is restricted, judges sometimes ruled against the government in significant cases in 2019, for example in the cases involving academics who had called for an end to state violence in Kurdish areas in 2016.

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Above: Logo of the Board of Judges and Prosecutors (HYSK)

Due process guarantees were largely eroded during the state of emergency between 2016 and 2018, and these rights have not been restored in practice since the emergency was lifted.

Due process and evidentiary standards are particularly weak in cases involving terrorism charges, with defendants held in lengthy pretrial detention periods lasting up to seven years.

In many cases, lawyers defending those accused of terrorism have faced arrest themselves.

According to the Justice Ministry, more than 150,000 people were under investigation for terrorism offenses as of mid-2019, and roughly 70,000 were on trial.

Most were accused of links to the Gülen movement.

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Above: Logo of the Turkish Justice Ministry

Torture at the hands of authorities has remained common after the 2016 coup attempt and subsequent state of emergency.

Human Rights Watch has reported that security officers specifically target Kurds, Gülenists, and leftists with torture and degrading treatment, and operate in an environment of impunity.

Prosecutors do not consistently investigate allegations of torture, and the government has resisted the publication of a European Committee for the Prevention of Torture report on its detention practices.

Protecting Prisoners: The Standards of the European Committee for the  Prevention of Torture in Context: Amazon.de: Morgan, Rod, Evans, Malcolm  E., Morgan, Rodney: Fremdsprachige Bücher

The threat of terrorism decreased in 2018 with the weakening of the Islamic State (IS) militant group in neighboring Syria and Iraq.

No large-scale terrorist attacks were reported during 2019.

Above: Flag of the Islamic State

However, residents in the Kurdish southeast endured another year of conflict between security forces and the PKK, and have been subject to curfews as part of a new strategy to limit PKK activity.

The conflict between security forces and Kurdish militants has killed more than 4,600 people within Turkey and in northern Iraq since July 2015, most of them soldiers or militant combatants.

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Although Turkish law guarantees equal treatment, women as well as ethnic and religious minority groups suffer varying degrees of discrimination.

For example, Alevis and non-Muslims reportedly face discrimination in schools and in employment, particularly in senior public-sector positions.

Gender inequality in the workplace is common, though women have become a larger part of the workforce since the beginning of the century.

Above: International Women’s Day protest, Istanbul, 8 March 2020

The conflict with the PKK has been used to justify discriminatory measures against Kurds, including the prohibition of Kurdish festivals for security reasons and the reversal of Kurdish municipal officials’ efforts to promote their language and culture.

Many Kurdish-language schools and cultural organizations have been shut down by the government since 2015.

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Above: Kurdish sun

Turkey hosts 3.6 million refugees from Syria, in addition to 400,000 refugees and asylum seekers from other parts of the world.

While the government has worked to provide them with basic services, a large minority of refugee children lack access to education, and few adults are able to obtain formal employment.

Popular resentment against this population has been rising for years and is felt across the political spectrum.

In response to public pressure, the Turkish government in October 2019 announced a plan to resettle as many as one million Syrian refugees in a new buffer zone in northern Syria.

That month, Turkey launched a military offensive to capture the territory in question from the Syrian Democratic Forces, a US-backed and Kurdish-led militia group that had waged a successful multiyear campaign against IS in Syria, but that Turkey opposed due to its alleged ties to the PKK.

Also in October, Turkish authorities forced Syrian refugees to secure new residency permits or risk deportation.

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Above: Map of the Syrian Civil War – (pink) Syrian Arab Republic (SAA) / (orange) Syrian Arab Republic & Rojava / (yellow) Rojava (SDF) / (grey) Syrian Interim Government (SNA) & Turkish occupation / (white) Syrian Salvation Government (HTS) / (turquoise) Revolutionary Commando Army & US occupation / (purple) Opposition groups in reconciliation / (mauve) ISIL (February 2021)

Same-sex relations are not legally prohibited, but LGBT+ people are subject to widespread discrimination, police harassment, and occasional violence.

There is no legislation to protect people from discrimination based on their sexual orientation or gender identity.

LGBT+ people are banned from openly serving in the military.

Above: LGBT flag

An upsurge in fighting between the government and the PKK in 2015 and 2016 resulted in the displacement of hundreds of thousands of people in southeastern Turkey, and freedom of movement remains limited in the region as low-level clashes continue.

Southeast Anatolia | All About Turkey
Above: Southeastern Turkey

More than 125,000 public sector workers have been fired in the purges that followed the 2016 coup attempt, and those who were suspended or dismissed have no effective avenue for appeal.

Many purge victims were unable to find new employment in the private sector, due to an atmosphere of guilt by association.

The authorities also targeted purged workers and their spouses with the revocation of their passports.

The government stated that it was working to reinstate passports in March 2019 and again in July, after the Constitutional Court overturned the regulation that allowed their original revocation.

However, the matter remained unresolved at year’s end.

Turkey Purge | Monitoring human rights abuses in Turkey's post-coup  crackdown

The 2016–present purges in Turkey are a series of purges by the government of Turkey enabled by a state of emergency in reaction to the 15 July 2016 failed coup d’état.

The purges began with the arrest of Turkish Armed Forces personnel reportedly linked to the coup attempt but arrests were expanded to include other elements of the Turkish military, as well as civil servants and private citizens.

These later actions reflected a power struggle between secularist and Islamist political elites in Turkey, affected people who were not active in nor aware of the coup, but who the government claimed were connected with the Gülen movement, an opposition group which the government blamed for the coup.

Possession of books authored by Gülen was considered valid evidence of such a connection and cause for arrest.

Tens of thousands of public servants and soldiers were purged in the first week following the coup. 

For example, on 16 July 2016, just one day after the coup was foiled, 2,745 judges were dismissed and detained.

This was followed by the dismissal, detention or suspension of over 100,000 officials, a figure that had increased to over 110,000 by early November 2016, over 125,000 after the 22 November decree, reaching at least 135,000 with the January decrees, about 160,000 after the suspensions and arrests decree of 29 April and 180,000 after a massive dismissal decree in July 2018.

Collectively about 10% of Turkey’s two million public employees were removed as a result of the purges.

Purged citizens are prevented from working again for the government, therefore pushed into precarity and economic death.

Infographic: The Targets Of Erdogan's Purge | Statista

In the business sector, the government forcefully seized assets of over 1,000 companies worth between $11 and $60 billion, on the charge of being related to Gülen and the coup.

By late 2017 over a thousand companies and their assets owned by individuals reportedly affiliated with the movement had been seized and goods and services produced by such companies were subject to boycott by the public.

The purges also extend to the media with television channels, newspapers and other media outlets that were seen as critical of the government being shut down, critical journalists being arrested and the 2017 block of Wikipedia in Turkey, which lasted from April 2017 to January 2020.

Since early September 2016, the post-coup emergency state allowed a turn against Kurdish groups and Kurdish culture, including the dismissal of over 11,000 Kurdish teachers and dozens of elected mayors and the arrest of the co-chairs of the HDP for alleged links with the PKK.

In August 2018, the Turkish Parliament approved a new “anti-terror” law to replace the state of emergency.)

Turkey Purge | Monitoring human rights abuses in Turkey's post-coup  crackdown

Private property rights are legally enshrined, but since 2013 many critics of the government have been subjected to intrusive tax and regulatory inspections.

In the aftermath of the 2016 coup attempt, the assets of companies, NGOs, foundations, individuals, media outlets, and other entities deemed to be associated with terrorist groups have been confiscated.

According to news site European Interest, $11 billion in private business assets, ranging from corner stores to large conglomerates, had been seized as of June 2018.

May be an image of text that says 'EUROPEAN INTEREST www.europeaninterest.eu ,'

The government has shown increasing disinterest in protecting vulnerable individuals from forced marriage and domestic violence.

Child marriages, often performed at unofficial religious ceremonies, are widespread, and Syrian refugees appear to be particularly vulnerable.

The Directorate of Religious Affairs briefly endorsed the practice, suggesting that girls as young as nine years old could marry when it published a glossary of Islamic terms in early 2018.

The same document, which was retracted after public outcry, also defined marriage as an institution that saved its participants from adultery.

Turkish wedding in Karlsruhe Germany | Wonderfull and colorfull

Despite legal safeguards, rates of domestic violence remain high.

Police are often reluctant to intervene in domestic disputes, and shelter space is both extremely limited and often geographically inaccessible.

The AKP considered weakening domestic violence protections as part of a larger effort to dissuade women from seeking divorce.

A parliamentary report published in 2016 recommended that women should be required to prove their partner’s violence in order to receive extended police protection.

The recommendation was retracted after sparking public criticism.

We will be heard': How the women of Turkey are fighting for their rights |  Middle East Eye

The weakness of labour unions and the government’s increasing willingness to take action against organized labour have undermined equality of opportunity, protection from economic exploitation, and workplace safety.

Workplace accidents have become more frequent in recent years, and labourers have little recourse if injured.

According to the Workers’ Health and Work Safety Assembly (İSİGM), more than 1,700 workers died in workplace accidents in 2019, including 67 child labourers and 112 migrant laborers.

The large refugee population is especially vulnerable to exploitative employment conditions.

At least 108 workers killed in Turkey in March: Report - Latest News

Will the proposed constitutional reform make Turkey a more democratic country?

Doubtful.

A Last Chance for Turkish Democracy | The New Yorker

Will the violence that ended the life of Elhan Atifi continue on in Turkey?

There is no doubt at all that it will.

Aile içi şiddetten kaçarak Türkiye'ye gelen Afgan kadın öldürüldü: Kocası  kaçak yollarla gelip elektrik kablosuyla boğdu - Sputnik Türkiye

The Four Freedoms that FDR advocated cannot be found in the Republic.

True democracy is but a dream.

Turkey between Democracy and Authoritarianism World Since 1980: Amazon.de:  Arat, Yeşim: Fremdsprachige Bücher

And, yet….

I remain hopeful, for I am a student of history and history teaches me that there will always be those who will exemplify freedom even in the direst of lands and in the darkest of times.

Freedom always finds a way to express itself.

1,223 Flower Growing Crack Photos - Free & Royalty-Free Stock Photos from  Dreamstime

What follows are stories of individuals who fought for their freedom in one form or another.

This is followed by the ongoing tale of a young Swiss woman travelling in a land that is viewed by Freedom House as being even less free than Turkey…..

Freedomrage.jpg

Vagharshapat, Armenia, 17 February 440

Foreign folks tend to think of this town as merely a suburb of the Armenian capital of Yerevan, a mere bedroom community at best, but for Armenians this is a holy city and the spiritual capital of the country.

Vagharshapat has served as the capital of the Arsacid Kingdom of Armenia (120 – 330).

After embracing Christianity as a state religion in Armenia in 301, Vagharshapat was gradually called Ejmiatsin, after the name of the Mother Cathedral, the seat of the Armenian Catholicosate, one of the oldest religious organizations in the world.

As a spiritual centre of the entire Armenian nation, Vagharshapat has grown up rapidly and developed as an important centre of education and culture.

The city was home to one of the oldest educational institutions in Armenia founded by Mesrop Mashtots, who died on this day in 440.

Above: Zvarnots Cathedral, Vagharshapat, Armenia

Mesrop Mashtots (362 – 440) was an early medieval Armenian linguist, composer, theologian, statesman and hymnologist.

He is best known for inventing the Armenian alphabet (405), a fundamental step in strengthening Armenian national identity.

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Above: A painting of Mesrop Mashtots, the inventor of the Armenian alphabet, Pontifical Residence, Etchmiadzin Cathedral complex

Mesrop Mashtots was born in a noble family in the settlement of Hatsekats, the son of a man named Vardan.

Mashtots received a good education, and was versed in Greek and Persian.

On account of his piety and learning, Mesrop was appointed secretary to King Khosrov IV (338 – 415).

His duty was to write in Greek and Persian characters the decrees and edicts of the sovereign.

Above: Fresco of Mesrop, Würzburg Residence, Bavaria, Germany

Leaving the court for the service of God, he took holy orders and withdrew to a monastery with a few chosen companions.

There, he practiced great austerities, enduring hunger and thirst, cold and poverty.

He lived on vegetables, wore a hair shirt, slept upon the ground, and often spent whole nights in prayer and the study of the Holy Scriptures.

This life he continued for a few years.

Above: Mesrop in a 1776 Armenian manuscript

With the support of Prince Shampith, he preached the Gospel in the district of Goghtn near the River Araxes, converting many heretics and pagans.

However, he experienced great difficulty in instructing the people, for the Armenians had no alphabet of their own, instead using Greek, Persian and Syriac scripts, none of which was well suited for representing the many complex sounds of their native tongue.

Again, the Holy Scriptures and the liturgy, being written in Syriac, were, to a large extent, unintelligible to the faithful.

Hence the constant need of translators and interpreters to explain the Word of God to the people.

Mesrop, desirous to remedy this state of things, resolved to invent a national alphabet, in which undertaking Isaac and King Vramshapuh promised to assist him.

It is hard to determine exactly what part Mesrop had in the fixing of the new alphabet.

Above: The Amaras Monastery, Artsakh, Armenia, where Mesrop Mashtots established the first-ever Armenian school that used his script in the 5th century.

The first sentence in Armenian written down by Mesrop after he invented the letters is said to be the opening line of Solomon’s Book of Proverbs:

«To know wisdom and instruction; to perceive the words of understanding.» (Proverbs 1:2)

Above: Solomon (990 – 931 BC)

The invention of the Armenian alphabet was the beginning of Armenian literature and proved a powerful factor in the upbuilding of the national spirit.

The result of the work of Mesrop was to separate for ever the Armenians from the other peoples of the East, to make of them a distinct nation, and to strengthen them in the Christian Faith by forbidding or rendering profane all the foreign alphabetic scripts which were employed for transcribing the books of the heathens and of the followers of Zoroaster.

To Mesrop we owe the preservation of the language and literature of Armenia.

But for his work, the people would have been absorbed by the Persians and Syrians, and would have disappeared like so many nations of the East.”

Flag of Armenia
Above: Flag of Armenia

Anxious that others should profit by his discovery, and encouraged by the patriarch and the king, Mesrop founded numerous schools in different parts of the country, in which the youth were taught the new alphabet.

Armenian Alphabet Uppercase lowercase and transcription.svg
Above: The Armenian alphabet

Virtually every town in Armenia has a street named after Mashtots.

In Yerevan, Mashtots Street is one of the most important in the city centre, which was previously known as Lenin Street (Lenin Prospect).

There is a statue to him at the Matenadaran, one at the church he was buried at in Oshakan village, and one at the monument to the alphabet found on the skirts of Mt. Aragats north of Ohanavan Village.

Stamps have been issued with his image by both the Soviet Union and by post-Soviet Armenia.

The Order of St. Mesrop Mashtots, established in 1993, is awarded for significant achievements in economic development of the Republic of Armenia or for accomplishments, such as in science, culture, education or public service, and for activities promoting those fields.

Above: The statue of Mesrop Mashtots in front of the Matenadaran, Yerevan

(The Matenadaran (Armenian: Մատենադարան), officially the Mesrop Mashtots Institute of Ancient Manuscripts, is a museum, repository of manuscripts, and a research institute in Yerevan.

It is the world’s largest repository of Armenian manuscripts.)

Matenadaran, Ereván, Armenia, 2016-10-03, DD 22.jpg
Above: The Matenadaran, Yerevan, Armenia

Rome, Italy, Ash Wednesday 17 February 1600

The records of Bruno’s imprisonment by the Venetian Inquisition in May 1592 describe him as a man “of average height, with a hazel-coloured beard and the appearance of being about forty years of age“.

Alternately, a passage in a work by George Abbot (1562 – 1633) indicates that Bruno was of diminutive stature:

When that Italian Didapper, who intituled himselfe Philotheus Iordanus Brunus Nolanus, magis elaboratae Theologiae Doctor, &c. with a name longer than his body…“.

The word “didapper” used by Abbot is the derisive term which at the time meant “a small diving waterfowl“.

Giordano Bruno.jpg
Above: Giordano Bruno

Born Filippo Bruno in Nola (a community in the province of Naples, in the region of Campania) in 1548, he was the son of Giovanni Bruno, a soldier, and Fraulissa Savolino.

NolaDuomo.jpg
Above: Nola Cathedral

In his youth he was sent to Naples (Napoli) to be educated.

He was tutored privately at the Augustinian monastery there, and attended public lectures at the Studium Generale.

At the age of 17, he entered the Dominican Order at the monastery of San Domenico Maggiore in Naples, taking the name Giordano, after Giordano Crispo, his metaphysics tutor.

He continued his studies there, completing his novitiate and became an ordained priest in 1572 at age 24.

ChiesaSanDomenicoMaggiore.JPG
Above: Church of San Domenico Maggiore, Naples, Italy

During his time in Naples he became known for his skill with the art of memory and on one occasion travelled to Rome to demonstrate his mnemonic system before Pope Pius V (1504 – 1572) and Cardinal Rebiba (1504 – 1577).

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Above: Pope Pius V ( Antonio Ghislieri)

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Above: Cardinal Scipione Rebiba

In his later years Bruno claimed that the Pope accepted his dedication to him of the lost work On The Ark of Noah at this time.

Above: Noah’s Ark, Edward Hicks

While Bruno was distinguished for outstanding ability, his taste for free thinking and forbidden books soon caused him difficulties.

Given the controversy he caused in later life it is surprising that he was able to remain within the monastic system for eleven years.

In his testimony to Venetian inquisitors during his trial, many years later, he says that proceedings were twice taken against him for having cast away images of the saints, retaining only a crucifix, and for having recommended controversial texts to a novice.

Such behavior could perhaps be overlooked, but Bruno’s situation became much more serious when he was reported to have defended the Arian heresy – Arian theology holds that the Son of God is not co-eternal with God the Father and is distinct from the Father (therefore subordinate to him) – and when a copy of the banned writings of Erasmus, annotated by him, was discovered hidden in the monastery latrine.

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Above: Arius (260 – 336)

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Above: Desiderius Erasmus of Rotterdam (1466 – 1536)

When Bruno learned that an indictment was being prepared against him in Naples he fled, shedding his religious habit, at least for a time.

Bruno first went to the Genoese port of Noli, then to Savona, Turin (Torino) and finally to Venice (Venezia, where he published his lost work On the Signs of the Times with the permission (so he claimed at his trial) of the Dominican Remigio Nannini Fiorentino (1518 – 1581).

Noli.jpg
Above: Noli, Italy

Panorama of Savona
Above: modern Savona, Italy

Panorama of Turin, with the Mole Antonelliana and the Alps, from Monte dei Cappuccini
Above: Torino, Italy

A collage of Venice: at the top left is the Piazza San Marco, followed by a view of the city, then the Grand Canal and interior of La Fenice, as well as the island of San Giorgio Maggiore.
Above: Images of Venezia, Italy

From Venice he went to Padua (Padova), where he met fellow Dominicans who convinced him to wear his religious habit again.

Padova – Veduta
Above: Basilica of San Antonio, Padova, Italy

From Padua he went to Bergamo and then across the Alps to Chambéry and Lyon.

His movements after this time are obscure.

The skyline of the old fortified upper city
Above: Bergamo, Italy

A general view of Chambéry
Above: Chambéry, France

Top: Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, Place des Terreaux with the Fontaine Bartholdi and Lyon City Hall at night. Centre: Parc de la Tête d'or, Confluence district and Vieux Lyon. Bottom: Pont Lafayette, La Part-Dieu Central Business District with Place Bellecour in foreground during the Festival of Lights.
Above: Images of Lyon, France

In 1579 he arrived in Geneva (Genève).

A view over Geneva and the lake
Above: Genève, Switzerland

As D.W. Singer (1882 – 1964), a Bruno biographer, notes:

Wellcome Collection
Above: Dorothea Waley Singer with her husband in Kilmarth, Fowey, Cornwall, England

The question has sometimes been raised as to whether Bruno became a Protestant, but it is intrinsically most unlikely that he accepted membership in Calvin’s communion.”

John Calvin Museum Catharijneconvent RMCC s84 cropped.png
Above: Jean Calvin ( Jehan Cauvin) (1509 – 1564)

During his Venetian trial he told inquisitors that while in Geneva he told the Marchese de Vico of Naples, who was notable for helping Italian refugees in Geneva:

I did not intend to adopt the religion of the city.

I desired to stay there only that I might live at liberty and in security.

Bruno had a pair of breeches made for himself, and the Marchese and others apparently made Bruno a gift of a sword, hat, cape and other necessities for dressing himself.

In such clothing Bruno could no longer be recognized as a priest.

Things apparently went well for Bruno for a time, as he entered his name in the Rector’s Book of the University of Geneva in May 1579.

Uni GE logo.svg

But in keeping with his personality he could not long remain silent.

In August he published an attack on the work of Antoine de la Faye, a distinguished professor.

He and the printer were promptly arrested.

Rather than apologizing, Bruno insisted on continuing to defend his publication.

He was refused the right to take sacrament.

Though this right was eventually restored, he left Geneva.

Portrait du duc Antoine par Hugues de la Faye (v 1520) - Maison de Lorraine
Above: Antoine de la Faye (1540 – 1615)

He went to France, arriving first in Lyon, and thereafter settling for a time (1580–1581) in Toulouse, where he took his doctorate in theology and was elected by students to lecture in philosophy.

It seems he also attempted at this time to return to Catholicism, but was denied absolution by the Jesuit priest he approached.

Hôpital de La Grave, Ariane 5 (Cité de l'espace), Basilica of Saint-Sernin, Place du Capitole, the first Airbus A380, Musée des Augustins
Above: Images of Toulouse, France

When religious strife broke out in the summer of 1581, he moved to Paris.

There he held a cycle of thirty lectures on theological topics and also began to gain fame for his prodigious memory.

Bruno’s feats of memory were based, at least in part, on his elaborate system of mnemonics, but some of his contemporaries found it easier to attribute them to magical powers.

His talents attracted the benevolent attention of King Henry III (1551 – 1589).

The King summoned him to the court.

Bruno subsequently reported:

I got me such a name that King Henry III summoned me one day to discover from me if the memory which I possessed was natural or acquired by magic art.

I satisfied him that it did not come from sorcery but from organized knowledge.

Following this, I got a book on memory printed, entitled The Shadows of Ideas, which I dedicated to His Majesty.

Forthwith he gave me an Extraordinary Lectureship with a salary.

Portrait of Henry wearing a black beret
Above: French King Henri III

In Paris, Bruno enjoyed the protection of his powerful French patrons.

During this period, he published several works on mnemonics, including On the Shadows of Ideas (1582), The Art of Memory (1582), and Circe’s Song (1582).

De Umbris Idearum: On the Shadows of Ideas (Collected Works of Giordano  Bruno Book 1) (English Edition) eBook: Bruno, Giordano, Gosnell, Scott:  Amazon.de: Kindle-Shop

Song of Circe & On the Composition of Images: Two Books of the Art of  Memory (Collected Works of Giordano Bruno Book 7) (English Edition) eBook:  Bruno, Giordano, Gosnell, Scott: Amazon.de: Kindle-Shop

All of these were based on his mnemonic models of organized knowledge and experience, as opposed to the simplistic logic-based mnemonic techniques of Petrus Ramus (1515 – 1572) then becoming popular.

Petrus Ramus.jpg
Above: Petrus Ramus ( Pierre de la Ramée)

Bruno also published a comedy summarizing some of his philosophical positions, titled The Torchbearer (1582).

In the 16th century, dedications were, as a rule, approved beforehand, and hence were a way of placing a work under the protection of an individual.

Given that Bruno dedicated various works to the likes of King Henry III, English poet Sir Philip Sidney (1554 – 1586), Michel de Castelnau (1520 – 1592) (French ambassador to England), and possibly Pope Pius V, it is apparent that this wanderer had risen sharply in status and moved in powerful circles.

Sir Philip Sidney from NPG.jpg
Above: Philip Sidney

Above: Image of Michel de Castelnau

In April 1583, Bruno went to England with letters of recommendation from Henry III as a guest of the French ambassador, Michel de Castelnau.

Bruno lived at the French Embassy with the lexicographer Giovanni Florio (1552 – 1625).

Above: Portrait of Giovanni Florio

There he became acquainted with the poet Philip Sidney (to whom he dedicated two books) and other members of the Hermetic circle around John Dee (1527 – 1609), though there is no evidence that Bruno ever met Dee himself.

A painting of Dee with a beard and skullcap
Above: John Dee

He also lectured at Oxford and unsuccessfully sought a teaching position there.

Oxford University Coat Of Arms.svg
Above: Coat of arms of the University of Oxford

His views were controversial, notably with John Underhill (1545 – 1592), Rector of Lincoln College and subsequently Bishop of Oxford, and George Abbot , who later became Archbishop of Canterbury.

George Abbot from NPG.jpg
Above: George Abbot (1562 – 1633)

Abbot mocked Bruno for supporting “the opinion of Copernicus (1473 – 1543) that the Earth did go round and the heavens did stand still, whereas in truth it was his own head which rather did run round, and his brains did not stand still“.

Nikolaus Kopernikus.jpg
Above: Nikolaus Kopernikus

Abbot found Bruno had both plagiarized and misrepresented the work of Marsilio Ficino (1433 – 1499), leading Bruno to return to the Continent.

Marsilio Ficino from a fresco painted by Domenico Ghirlandaio in the Tornabuoni Chapel, Santa Maria Novella, Florence
Above: Marsilio Ficino

Nevertheless, his stay in England was fruitful.

During that time Bruno completed and published some of his most important works, the six “Italian Dialogues“, including the cosmological tracts The Ash Wednesday Supper (1584), On Cause, Principle and Unity (1584), On the Infinite, Universe and Worlds (1584) as well as The Expulsion of the Triumphant Beast (1584) and On the Heroic Frenzies (1585).

Some of the works that Bruno published in London, notably The Ash Wednesday Supper, appear to have given offense.

Once again, Bruno’s controversial views and tactless language lost him the support of his friends. 

The Ash Wednesday Supper: Amazon.de: Bruno, Giordano: Fremdsprachige Bücher

John Bossy (1933 – 2015) has advanced the theory that, while staying in the French Embassy in London, Bruno was also spying on Catholic conspirators, under the pseudonym “Henry Fagot“, for Sir Francis Walsingham (1532 – 1590), the Secretary of State for Queen Elizabeth I (1533 – 1603).

Obituary: Professor John Bossy FBA - History, University of York
Above: John Bossy

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Above: Francis Walsingham

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Above: Queen Elizabeth I

Bruno is sometimes cited as being the first to propose that the universe is infinite, which he did during his time in England, but an English scientist, Thomas Digges (1546 – 1595), put forth this idea in a published work in 1576, some eight years earlier than Bruno.

Thomas Digges (1546 — August 24, 1595), British Astronomer, engineer,  mathematician, military, scientist, Soldier | World Biographical  Encyclopedia
Above: Thomas Digges

An infinite universe and the possibility of alien life had also been earlier suggested by German Catholic Cardinal Nicholas of Cusa (1401 – 1464) in On Learned Ignorance, published in 1440.

Nicholas of Cusa.jpg
Above: Nicholas of Cusa

In October 1585, after the French Embassy in London was attacked by a mob, Bruno returned to Paris with Castelnau, finding a tense political situation.

Moreover, his 120 theses against the natural science of Aristotle (384 – 322 BC) and his pamphlets against the mathematician Fabrizio Mordente (1532 – 1608) soon put him in ill favour.

Aristotle Altemps Inv8575.jpg
Above: Bust of Aristotle

In 1586, following a violent quarrel about Mordente’s invention, the differential compass, he left France for Germany.

New theories for new instruments: Fabrizio Mordente's proportional compass  and the genesis of Giordano Bruno's atomist geometry - ScienceDirect

In Germany he failed to obtain a teaching position at Marburg, but was granted permission to teach at Wittenberg, where he lectured on Aristotle for two years.

View of Marburg, dominated by the castle and St. Elizabeth's Church
Above: Marburg, Germany

However, with a change of intellectual climate there, he was no longer welcome.

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Above: Double seal of the University of Halle – Wittenberg

He went in 1588 to Prague, where he obtained 300 taler from Rudolf II (1552 – 1612), but no teaching position.

Clockwise from top: panorama with Prague Castle, Malá Strana and Charles Bridge; Pankrác district with high-rise buildings; street view in Malá Strana; Old Town Square panorama; gatehouse tower of the Charles Bridge; National Theatre

Above: Images of Prague, Czech Republic

Above: Thaler compared to an American quarter

AACHEN, Hans von - Portrait of Emperor Rudolf II - WGA.jpg

Above: Rudolf II

He went on to serve briefly as a professor in Helmstedt, but had to flee again when he was excommunicated by the Lutherans.

Above: University of Helmstedt, 16th century

During this period he produced several Latin works, including On MagicTheses on Magic and A General Account of Bonding.

He also published On the Composition of Images, Signs and Ideas (1591).

On Magic (Collected Works of Giordano Bruno, Band 5): Amazon.de: Bruno,  Giordano, Gosnell, Scott: Fremdsprachige Bücher

In 1591 he was in Frankfurt.

Above: Frankfurt, Germany, 1612

During the Frankfurt Book Fair, he received an invitation to Venice from the local patrician Giovanni Mocenigo, who wished to be instructed in the art of memory, and also heard of a vacant chair in mathematics at the University of Padua.

Frankfurter Buchmesse 2011 logo.svg

University of Padua seal.svg
Above: Seal of the University of Padua

At the time the Inquisition seemed to be losing some of its strictness, and because the Republic of Venice was the most liberal state in the Italian Peninsula, Bruno was lulled into making the fatal mistake of returning to Italy.

He went first to Padua, where he taught briefly, and applied unsuccessfully for the chair of mathematics, which was given instead to Galileo Galilei (1564 – 1642) one year later.

Justus Sustermans - Portrait of Galileo Galilei, 1636.jpg
Above: Galileo Galilei

Bruno accepted Mocenigo’s invitation and moved to Venice in March 1592.

For about two months he served as an in-house tutor to Mocenigo.

When Bruno announced his plan to leave Venice to his host, the latter, who was unhappy with the teachings he had received and had apparently come to dislike Bruno, denounced him to the Venetian Inquisition, which had Bruno arrested on 22 May 1592.

Among the numerous charges of blasphemy and heresy brought against him in Venice, based on Mocenigo’s denunciation, was his belief in the plurality of worlds, as well as accusations of personal misconduct.

Bruno defended himself skillfully, stressing the philosophical character of some of his positions, denying others and admitting that he had had doubts on some matters of dogma.

The Roman Inquisition, however, asked for his transfer to Rome.

After several months of argument, the Venetian authorities reluctantly consented and Bruno was sent to Rome in February 1593.

photograph of prisons in Doge's Palace
Above: The Venetian Holy Office operated its own cells inside the New Prisons, near Saint Mark’s Square.

During the seven years of his trial in Rome, Bruno was held in confinement, lastly in the Tower of Nona.

Above: The Tower of Nona, Rome

Some important documents about the trial are lost, but others have been preserved, among them a summary of the proceedings that was rediscovered in 1940.

The numerous charges against Bruno, based on some of his books as well as on witness accounts, included blasphemy, immoral conduct, and heresy in matters of dogmatic theology, and involved some of the basic doctrines of his philosophy and cosmology. 

Luigi Firpo (1915 – 1989) speculates the charges made against Bruno by the Roman Inquisition were:

  • holding opinions contrary to the Catholic faith and speaking against it and its ministers
  • holding opinions contrary to the Catholic faith about the Trinity, the divinity of Christ, and the Incarnation (God became man)
  • holding opinions contrary to the Catholic faith pertaining to Jesus as Christ
  • holding opinions contrary to the Catholic faith regarding the virginity of Mary, mother of Jesus
  • holding opinions contrary to the Catholic faith about both transubstantiation (bread and wine literally transformed into body and blood of Christ) and Mass
  • claiming the existence of a plurality of worlds and their eternity (whether the world has a beginning in time or has always existed)
  • believing in metempsychosis (reincarnation) and in the transmigration of the human soul into brutes
  • dealing in magics and divination

Luigi Firpo - Wikipedia
Above: Luigi Firpo

Bruno defended himself as he had in Venice, insisting that he accepted the Church’s dogmatic teachings, but trying to preserve the basis of his cosmological views.

In particular, he held firm to his belief in the plurality of worlds, although he was admonished to abandon it.

His trial was overseen by the Inquisitor Cardinal Robert Bellarmine (1542 – 1621), who demanded a full recantation, which Bruno eventually refused.

Portret van kardinaal Robertus Bellarminus, onbekend, schilderij, Museum Plantin-Moretus (Antwerpen) - MPM V IV 110 (cropped).jpg
Above: Robert Bellarmine

On 20 January 1600, Pope Clement VIII (1536 – 1605) declared Bruno a heretic, and the Inquisition issued a sentence of death.

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Above: Pope Clement VIII ( Ippolito Aldobrandini)

According to the correspondence of Gaspar Schopp of Breslau (1576 – 1649), Bruno is said to have made a threatening gesture towards his judges and to have replied:  

Perhaps you pronounce this sentence against me with greater fear than I receive it.

Above: Gaspar Schoppe

Bruno was turned over to the secular authorities.

On Ash Wednesday, 17 February 1600, in the Campo de’ Fiori (a central Roman market square), with his “tongue imprisoned because of his wicked words“, he was hung upside down naked before finally being burned at the stake.

His ashes were thrown into the Tiber River.

All of Bruno’s works were placed on the Index Librorum Prohibitorum in 1603.

Above: The trial of Giordano Bruno by the Roman Inquisition

The measures taken to prevent Bruno continuing to speak have resulted in his becoming a symbol for free thought and speech in present-day Rome, where an annual memorial service takes place close to the spot where he was executed.

Above: The monument to the philosopher Giordano Bruno at the centre of the square, Campo de’ Fiori, Rome

The execution of Neapolitan philosopher and astronomer Giordano Bruno has been seen as an attempt by the Catholic Church to hold back the tide of modern science.

Yet Bruno was one of the first to envisage an infinite universe, in which the stars and suns are similar.

Such a belief took him far beyond the heliocentric observations of Nicholas Copernicus, and Bruno’s conviction of the importance of a sceptical attitude towards accepted “truths” led him to explore a multitude of avenues, including mathematics, alchemy and the pseudo-scientific hermetic beliefs of his day.

For Bruno, “everything, however men may deem it assured and evident, proves, when it is brought under discussion, to be no less doubtful than are extravagant and absurd beliefs“.

Above: Copernican heliocentric diagram

In On Cause, Principle and Unity, he espoused a radical relativism that led him to doubt the Church’s message:

This entire globe, this star, not being subject to death and dissolution and annihilation being impossible anywhere in Nature, from time to time renews itself by changing and altering all of its parts.

There is no absolute up or down, as Aristotle taught, no absolute position in space, but the position of a body is relative to that of other bodies.

Everywhere there is incessant relative change in position throughout the universe, and the observer is always at the centre of things.

Giordano Bruno: Cause, Principle and Unity: And Essays on Magic Cambridge  Texts in the History of Philosophy: Amazon.de: Bruno, Richard:  Fremdsprachige Bücher

Paris, France, Friday 17 February 1673

It may be a “Canadian thing“, but I, like the late great Canadian actor Hume Cronyn (1911 – 2003), am quite defensive when it comes to Molière.

Portrait of Molière by Pierre Mignard (c. 1658)
Above: Portrait of Molière

In his memoir A Terrible Liar, actor Hume Cronyn writes that, in 1962, celebrated actor Laurence Oliver criticized Molière.

A Terrible Liar: A Memoir: Amazon.de: Cronyn, Hume: Fremdsprachige Bücher

According to Cronyn, he mentioned to Laurence Olivier that he (Cronyn) was about to play the title role in The Miser, and that Olivier then responded:

Molière?

Funny as a baby’s open grave.”

head and shoulder shot of man in late middle age, slightly balding, with pencil moustache
Above: Laurence Olivier

Cronyn comments on the incident:

You may imagine how that made me feel.

Fortunately, he was dead wrong.

Hume Cronyn at the Guthrie Theatre Photograph by The Harrington Collection
Above: Hume Cronyn in The Miser, Guthrie Theater, Minneapolis, Minnesota, 1963

Author Martha Bellinger points out that:

Molière has been accused of not having a consistent, organic style, of using faulty grammar, of mixing his metaphors, and of using unnecessary words for the purpose of filling out his lines.

All these things are occasionally true, but they are trifles in comparison to the wealth of character he portrayed, to his brilliancy of wit, and to the resourcefulness of his technique.

He was wary of sensibility or pathos.

But in place of pathos he had melancholy — a puissant and searching melancholy, which strangely sustains his inexhaustible mirth and his triumphant gaiety.”

The Stolen Singer: Amazon.de: Bellinger, Martha: Fremdsprachige Bücher

Molière’s comedies became popular with both the French public and the critics.

Romanticists admired his plays for the unconventional individualism they portrayed. 

Above: Statue of Molière, rue de Richelieu, Paris

Jean-Baptiste Poquelin (1622 – 1673), known by his stage name Molière was a French playwright, actor and poet, widely regarded as one of the greatest writers in the French language and world literature.

Old black and white photo of a street in Paris.
Above: Birthplace of Molière, 94 – 96 rue St. Honoré, Paris

His extant works include comedies, farces, tragicomedies, comédie-ballets, and more.

His plays have been translated into every major living language and are performed at the Comédie Francaise more often than those of any other playwright today.

His influence is such that the French language is often referred to as the “language of Molière“.

In June 1643, when Molière was 21, he decided to abandon his social class and pursue a career on the stage.

Taking leave of his father, he joined the actress Madeleine Béjart and founded the Illustre Théâtre.

The theatre troupe went bankrupt in 1645.

Above: Madeleine Béjart (1618 – 1672)

Above: Plaque marking the Illustrous Theatre’s location at 12 rue Mazarine, Paris

Molière had become head of the troupe, due in part, perhaps, to his acting prowess and his legal training.

However, the troupe had acquired large debts, mostly for the rent of the theatre, for which they owed 2,000 livres.

Historians differ as to whether his father or the lover of a member of his troupe paid his debts.

Either way, after a 24-hour stint in prison he returned to the acting circuit.

Illustrative image of the article Grand Châtelet
Above: Le Grand Châtelet Prison

It was at this time that he began to use the pseudonym Molière, possibly inspired by a small village of the same name in the Midi near Le Vigan.

It was likely that he changed his name to spare his father the shame of having an actor in the family.

(Actors, although no longer vilified by the state under Louis XIV, were still not allowed to be buried in sacred ground).

Portrait of Louis XIV aged 63
Above: KIng Louis XIV (1638 – 1715)

After his imprisonment, he and Madeleine began a theatrical circuit of the provinces with a new theatre troupe.

This life was to last about twelve years, during which he created a company of his own, which had sufficient success.

Map of France showing the various places where Molière's troop stayed
Above: The stays in the provinces of the troop of Dufresne and Molière between 1645 and 1658.

Few plays survive from this period.

The most noteworthy are The Bungler and The Doctor in Love.

The plot of The Bungler follows a servant’s schemes to help his wealthy employer win the affections of a poor young woman.

With these two plays, Molière moved away from the heavy influence of the Italian improvisational Commedia dell’arte and displayed his talent for mockery.

Above: Illustration for the printed text of The Bungler

Deux femmes sur la gauche semblent vouloir s'éloigner d'un personnage de marquis derrière lequel se tient un valet.
Above: Illustration for the printed text of The Lovemaking

The Pretentious Young Ladies was the first of Molière’s many attempts to satirize certain societal mannerisms and affectations then common in France.

It is widely accepted that the plot was based on Samuel Chappuzeau’s Le Cercle des Femmes of 1656.

Samuel Chappuzeau – Wikipedia
Above: Samuel Chappuzeau (1625 – 1701)

He primarily mocks the Académie Francaise, a group created by Richelieu under a royal patent to establish the rules of the fledgling French theatre.

The Académie preached unity of time, action, and styles of verse.

French Academy logo.png

Champaigne portrait richelieu eb.jpg
Above: Armand Jean du Plessis, Cardinal Richelieu (1585 – 1642)

Magdelon and Cathos are wannabe précieuses, (ultra-witty ladies who indulged in lively conversations) two young women from the provinces who have come to Paris in search of love and amusement.

Gorgibus, the father of Magdelon and uncle of Cathos, decides they should marry a pair of eminently eligible young men but the two women find the men unrefined and ridicule them.

The men vow to take revenge on les précieuses.

On stage comes Mascarille, a young man who pretends to be a sophisticated man of the world. Magdelon falls in love with him.

Next on stage comes another young man, Jodelet, with whom Cathos falls in love.

It is revealed that these two men, Mascarille and Jodelet, are imposters whose real identities are as the valets of the first two men who were scorned and rejected.

As the curtain falls, Gorgibus and les précieuses are ashamed at having fallen for the trick.

In the provinces, the young ladies’ Parisian pretensions attracted mockery, while in Paris, their puffed-up provincial naiveté and self-esteem proved laughable.

MASCARILLE: What do you think of my little goose?  Do you find it congruent with the habit? CATHOS: Absolutely, Scene IX.  Engraving by Moreau le Jeune.
Above: Scene from The Pretentious Young Ladies

Molière is often associated with the claim that comedy castigat ridendo mores or “criticises customs through humour” (a phrase in fact coined by his contemporary French poet Jean de Santeuil and sometimes mistaken for a classical Latin proverb).

Despite his own preference for tragedy, which he had tried to further with the Illustre Théâtre, Molière became famous for his farces.

The Pretentious Young Ladies won Molière the attention and the criticism of many, but it was not a popular success.

Jean de Santeul 2.jpg
Above Jean Baptiste Santeuil (1630 – 1697)

His 1660 play The Imaginary Cuckold seems to be a tribute both to Commedia dell’arte and to his teacher Fiorillo.

Its theme of marital relationships dramatizes Molière’s pessimistic views on the falsity inherent in human relationships.

This view is also evident in his later works and was a source of inspiration for many later authors.

It describes a kind of round dance where two couples believe that each of their partners has been betrayed by the other’s and is the first in Molière’s “Jealousy series“, which includes The Jealous PrinceThe School for Husbands and The School for Wives.

The greedy and domineering Gorgibus is forcing his daughter Célie to marry the wealthy Valère, but she is in love with Lélie and he with her.

Célie, in distress at her impending marriage to Valère, faints in the street, and Sganarelle, who is passing by, attempts to revive her.

In the process she loses her miniature portrait of Lélie which ends up in the hands of Sganarelle and his wife.

These two events set off a series of mistaken assumptions and quarrelling:

Sganarelle’s wife believes that he and Célie are lovers.

Sganarelle believes that Lélie and his wife are lovers.

Célie believes that Lélie and Sganarelle’s wife are lovers.

Lélie believes that Célie has secretly married Sganarelle.

Célie’s governess helps sort out the confusion in the penultimate scene, and in the final scene Villebrequin arrives with the surprise news that four months ago his son Valère had secretly married someone else.

Célie and Lélie are now free to marry.

In the final lines of the play Sganarelle addresses the audience:

You have seen how the strongest evidence can still plant a false belief in the mind.

Remember well this example, and even when you see everything, never believe anything.

Molière as Sganarelle.jpg
Above: Molière as Sganarelle, The Imaginary Cuckold

Molière wrote The Jealous Prince, a heroic comedy derived from a work of Cicognini’s.

Two other comedies of the same year were the successful The School for Husbands and The Bores.

Illustrative image of the article Dom Garcie of Navarre or the Jealous Prince
Above: Illustration for the printed text of The Jealous Husband

The plot of The School for Husbands centres on the suitors of two sisters, each of whom is a ward of each of the two men.

One suitor, Sganarelle, is controlling and overbearing of his intended wife Isabella.

The other suitor, Sganarelle’s older brother Ariste, treats his intended wife Léonor more as an equal.

Ariste eventually finds success in his pursued relationship, while Sganarelle fails miserably, so much so, in fact, that he is unwittingly used by Isabella in seeking her preferred courter, Valère.

Engraving from the 1719 edition.
Above: Illustration for the printed text of The School for Husbands

The Bores (or The Unfortunate) subtitled A comedy for the King’s amusements, because it was performed during a series of parties that Nicolas Fouquet gave in honor of the sovereign.

Nicolas Fouquet par Charles Le Brun.jpg
Above: Nicolas Fouquet (1615 – 1680)

These entertainments led Finance Minister Jean-Baptiste Colbert to demand the arrest of Fouquet for wasting public money and condemned to life imprisonment.

Colbert1666.jpg
Above: Jean-Baptiste Colbert (1619 – 1683)

Above: Illustration for the printed text of The Bores

On 20 February 1662, Molière married Armande Béjart.

Black and white reproduction of a painting of a woman in a half-length dress.
Above: Armande Molière (née Béjart) (1642 – 1700)

That same year, he premiered The School for Wives, subsequently regarded as a masterpiece.

It poked fun at the limited education that was given to daughters of rich families and reflected Molière’s own marriage.

Both this work and his marriage attracted much criticism. 

The play depicts a character who is so intimidated by femininity that he resolves to marry his young, naïve ward and proceeds to make clumsy advances to this purpose.

It raised some outcry from the public, which seems to have recognized Molière as a bold playwright who would not be afraid to write about controversial issues.

A woman standing, in profile, in front of a seated man.
Above: Illustration of the printed text of The School for Wives

The play sparked the protest called the Quarrel of the School for Wives.

On the artistic side he responded with The Criticism of the School for Wives, in which he imagined the spectators of his previous work attending it.

The piece mocks the people who had criticised The School for Wives by showing them at dinner after watching the play.

It addresses all the criticism raised about the piece by presenting the critics’ arguments and then dismissing them.

This was the so-called War of Comedy.

The School for Wives eBook by Molière - 9781531285029 | Rakuten Kobo United  States

However, more serious opposition was brewing, focusing on Molière’s politics and his personal life.

Tartuffe, or the Imposter was performed at Versailles in 1664 and created the greatest scandal of Molière’s artistic career.

Its depiction of the hypocrisy of the dominant classes was taken as an outrage and violently contested.

Though Tartuffe was received well by the public and even by Louis XIV, it immediately sparked conflict amongst many different groups who were offended by the play’s portrayal of someone who was outwardly pious but fundamentally mercenary, lecherous, and deceitful; and who uses their profession of piety to prey on others.

The factions opposed to Molière’s work included part of the hierarchy of the French Roman Catholic Church, members of upper-class French society, and the illegal underground organization, the Compagnie du Saint Sacrament. 

Tartuffe‘s popularity was cut short when the Archbishop of Paris Péréfixe issued an edict threatening excommunication for anyone who watched, performed in, or read the play.

Molière attempted to assuage church officials by rewriting his play to seem more secular and less critical of religion, but the Archbishop and other leading officials would not budge. 

The comic is the outward and visible form that nature’s bounty has attached to everything unreasonable, so that we should see, and avoid it.

To know the comic we must know the rational, of which it denotes the absence and we must see wherein the rational consists.

Incongruity is the heart of the comic.

It follows that all lying, disguise, cheating, dissimulation, all outward show different from the reality, all contradiction in fact between actions that proceed from a single source, all this is in essence: comic.

Above: Tartuffe – “Ah, to be devout, I am no less a man. ”

Centuries later, when the satirical anticlerical magazine La Calotte started publication in 1906, its first editorial asserted that: 

Laughter is the only weapon feared by the soldiers of Tartuffe.

The new magazine proposed to effectively deploy that weapon, with articles and cartoons mercilessly lampooning the Catholic Church and its clergy.

Above: “The Authentic Relics” – La Calotte mocks the supposed relics of St. Blaise (d. 316) , scattered in various locations, of which several full-fledged skeletons could have been constructed.

Molière was always careful not to attack the institution of monarchy.

He earned a position as one of the King’s favourites and enjoyed his protection from the attacks of the court.

While the King had little personal interest in suppressing the play, he did so because, as stated in the official account of the fête:

Although it was found to be extremely diverting, the King recognized so much conformity between those that a true devotion leads on the path to Heaven and those that a vain ostentation of some good works does not prevent from committing some bad ones, that his extreme delicacy to religious matters cannot suffer this resemblance of vice to virtue, which could be mistaken for each other.

Although one does not doubt the good intentions of the author, even so he forbids it in public, and deprived himself of this pleasure, in order not to allow it to be abused by others, less capable of making a just discernment of it.”

Above: Louis XIV invites Molière to share his supper — an unfounded Romantic anecdote

As a result of Molière’s play, contemporary French and English both use the word “Tartuffe” to designate a hypocrite who ostensibly and exaggeratedly feigns virtue, especially religious virtue. 

The King allegedly suggested that Molière suspend performances of Tartuffe, and the author rapidly wrote Dom Juan, or the Festival of Stone to replace it.

It was a strange work, derived from a work by Tirso de Molina and rendered in a prose that still seems modern today.

It describes the story of an atheist who becomes a religious hypocrite and for this is punished by God.

Tirso de Molina.jpg
Above: Tirso de Molina (1583 – 1648)

Dom Juan ou le Festin de pierre (“Don Juan or The Feast of the Stone Statue“) is a five-act 1665 comedy by Molière based upon the Spanish legend of Don Juan Tenorio. 

The aristocrat Dom Juan is a womanizer who seduces, marries, and abandons Elvira, discarded as just another romantic conquest.

Later, he invites to dinner the statue of a man whom he recently had murdered.

The statue accepts and reciprocates Dom Juan’s invitation.

In the course of their second evening, the stone statue of the murdered man charms, deceives, and leads Dom Juan to Hell.

Don Juan (Molière).jpg

Dom Juan or The Feast with the Statue (1665) presents the story of the last two days of life of the Sicilian courtier Dom Juan Tenorio, who is a young, libertine aristocrat known as a seducer of women and as an atheist.

Throughout the story, Dom Juan is accompanied by his valet, Sganarelle, a truculent and superstitious, cowardly and greedy man who engages his master in intellectual debates.

The many facets of Dom Juan’s personality are exposed to show that he is an adulterer (Act I), an accomplished womanizer (Act II), an altruistic, religious non-conformist (Act III), a spendthrift, bad son to his father (Act IV), and a religious hypocrite who pretends a spiritual rebirth and return to the faith of the Roman Catholic Church, which is foiled by death (Act V).

Throughout the plot of Dom Juan or the Feast of the Statue, the valet Sganarelle is the only character who defends religion, but his superstitious Catholicism is a thematic and intellectual foil to Dom Juan’s free-thinking disregard for religion and social and sexual norms.

In early 1665, after 15 performances of the original run of Dom Juan, the French royal authorities halted performances of the play.

Molière then had to defend the play and himself against accusations of irreligiousity and political subversion.

That the playwright Molière was celebrating a libertine life by positively portraying a rake, thus the intent of the play is disrespectful of the official doctrine of the Church, and thus subversive of the royal authority of the King of France, who is an absolute monarch.

The consequent state-and-church censorship legally compelled Molière to delete socially subversive scenes and irreligious dialogue from the script, specifically the scene where Sganarelle and Dom Juan encounter the Pauper in the forest.

In 1666, The Cantankerous Lover, or the Misanthrope was produced.

It is now widely regarded as Molière’s most refined masterpiece, the one with the highest moral content, but it was little appreciated at its time.

The play satirizes the hypocrisies of French aristocratic society, but it also engages a more serious tone when pointing out the flaws that all humans possess. 

Much to the horror of his friends and companions, Alceste rejects la politesse, the social conventions of the 17th century French ruelles (later called salons in the 18th century).

His refusal to “make nice” makes him tremendously unpopular and he laments his isolation in a world he sees as superficial and base, saying early in Act I:

Mankind has grown so base, / I mean to break with the whole human race.”

Despite his convictions, however, Alceste cannot help but love the flighty and vivacious Célimène, a consummate flirt whose wit and frivolity epitomize the courtly manners that Alceste despises.

Though he constantly reprimands her, Célimène refuses to change, charging Alceste with being unfit for society.

Despite his sour reputation as the misanthrope, Alceste does have women pining for him, particularly the prudish Arsinoé and the honest Éliante.

Though he acknowledges their superior virtues, his heart still lies with Célimène.

His deep feelings for her primarily serve to counter his negative expressions about mankind, since the fact that he has such feelings includes him amongst those he so fiercely criticizes.

When Alceste insults a sonnet written by the powerful noble Oronte, he is called to stand trial.

Refusing to dole out false compliments, he is charged and humiliated, and resolves on self-imposed exile.

Arsinoé, in trying to win his affections, shows him a love letter Célimène wrote to another suitor.

He discovers that Célimène has been leading him on.

She has written identical love letters to numerous suitors (including to Oronte) and broken her vow to favor him above all others.

He gives her an ultimatum:

He will forgive her and marry her if she runs away with him to exile.

Célimène refuses, believing herself too young and beautiful to leave society and all her suitors behind.

Philinte, for his part, becomes betrothed to Éliante.

Alceste then decides to exile himself from society, and the play ends with Philinte and Éliante running off to convince him to return.

There is much uncertainty about whether the main character, Alceste, is supposed to be perceived as a hero for his strong standards of honesty or whether he is supposed to be perceived as a fool for having such idealistic and unrealistic views about society.

LeMisanthrope.jpg
Above: Illustration from the printed text of The Misantrope

The Misanthrope was a commercial flop, though it survives as Molière’s best known work today, forcing Molière to immediately write The Doctor Despite Himself, a satire against the official sciences.

This was a success despite a moral treatise by the Prince of Conti, criticizing the theatre in general and Molière in particular.

In several of his plays, Molière depicted the physicians of his day as pompous individuals who spoke poor Latin to impress others with false erudition, and know only clysters (enemas) and bleedings as ineffective remedies.

Above: Illustration of the printed text of The Doctor Despite Himself

Sganarelle, a poor woodcutter, makes life a living hell for his wife and family by spending what little he earns on food and drink.

As the play opens, he is seen arguing with and eventually beating his wife, Martine, who then decides to take revenge.

As she is plotting, she hears two passing servants of a rich man mention their frustration at being unable to find a doctor who can cure their master’s daughter’s mysterious illness.

She convinces the two that her husband is an eccentric but brilliant doctor, whom they must beat into admitting his identity.

The servants find Sganarelle cutting wood and drinking in the woods nearby and beat him until he finally admits to being a doctor.

The servants take him to meet their master, Geronte, and his daughter Lucinde who has become mysteriously mute.

Sganarelle spends his first session with her frantically trying to pass as a real doctor, mainly out of fear of being beaten again.

When he sees how much Geronte is willing to pay him, however, he decides to give up woodcutting and remain a “doctor” for the rest of his life.

Eventually Sganarelle discovers that his patient is in fact only pretending to be ill, because she is betrothed to a rich man whom she does not love.

Farcical comedy ensues, climaxing with Sganarelle being discovered and almost executed.

The play ends with Lucinde’s love, Geronte’s wishes, and Sganarelle’s fate being neatly and happily resolved.

Much of the play consists of Sganarelle’s boastful comic monologues.

Below is a translation of Sganarelle’s most famous speech, which is considered one of the funniest in French theatre:

No, I tell you, they made a doctor of me in spite of myself.

I had never dreamt of being so learned as that, and all my studies came to an end in the lowest form.

I can’t imagine what put that whim into their heads, but when I saw that they were resolved to force me to be a doctor, I made up my mind to be one at the expense of those I might have to do with.

Yet you would hardly believe how the error has spread abroad and how everyone is obstinately determined to see a great doctor in me.

They come to fetch me from right and left, and if things go on in that fashion, I think I had better stick to medicine all my life.

I find it the best of trades, for, whether we are right or wrong, we are paid equally well.

We are never responsible for the bad work, and we cut away as we please in the stuff we work on.

A shoemaker in making shoes can’t spoil a scrap of leather without having to pay for it, but we can spoil a man without paying one farthing for the damage done.

The blunders are not ours, and the fault is always that of the dead man.

In short, the best part of this profession is, that there exists among the dead an honesty, a discretion that nothing can surpass, and never as yet has one been known to complain of the doctor who had killed him.”

Image description Medico per forza1.jpg.
Above: 1952 Italian film adaptation of The Doctor Despite Himself

George Dandin, or the Thwarted Husband was little appreciated.

Court historian André Félibien summarized George Dandin in the official brochure (1668) this way:

“The subject is that a wealthy peasant, who has married the daughter of a country gentleman, receives nothing but contempt from his wife as well as his handsome father- and mother-in-law, who only accepted him as their son-in-law because of his possessions and wealth”. 

Contemporary scholar Roland Racevskis summarized it this way:

“The action centers on the woes of George Dandin, a wealthy peasant who has entered into a misalliance by marrying Angélique, the daughter of a pair of caricatural provincial nobles, Monsieur and Madame de Sotenville [the latter played in female cross-dress]

Dandin must repeatedly endure the humiliation of recognizing the social superiority of the Sotenvilles and of apologizing to the wife who is cuckolding him all the while.”

Above: Illustration for the printed text of George Dandin

But success returned with The Miser, now very well known.

The miser of the title is called Harpagon, a name adapted from the Latin harpago, meaning a hook or grappling iron.

He is obsessed with the wealth he has amassed and always ready to save expenses.

Now a widower, he has a son, Cléante, and a daughter, Élise.

Although he is over sixty, he is attempting to arrange a marriage between himself and an attractive young woman, Mariane.

She and Cléante are already devoted to each other, however, and the son attempts to procure a loan to help her and her sick mother, who are impoverished.

Élise, Harpagon’s daughter, is the beloved of Valère, but her father hopes to marry her to a wealthy man of his choosing, Seigneur Anselme.

Meanwhile, Valère has taken a job as steward in Harpagon’s household so as to be close to Élise.

The complications are only resolved at the end by the rather conventional discovery that some of the principal characters are long lost relatives.

Satire and farce blend in the fast-moving plot, as when the miser’s hoard is stolen.

Asked by the police magistrate whom he suspects, Harpagon replies:

Everybody! I wish you to take into custody the whole town and suburbs.” and indicates the theatre audience while doing so.

The play also makes fun of certain theatrical conventions, such as the spoken aside addressed to the audience, hitherto ignored by the characters onstage.

The characters of The Miser, however, generally demand to know who exactly is being spoken to.

Above: Illustration for the printed text of The Miser

The Middle Class Gentleman, another of his masterpieces, is claimed to be particularly directed against Colbert, the minister who had condemned his old patron Fouquet. 

The play takes place at Mr. Jourdain’s house in Paris.

Jourdain is a middle-aged “bourgeois” whose father grew rich as a cloth merchant.

The foolish Jourdain now has one aim in life, which is to rise above this middle-class background and be accepted as an aristocrat.

To this end, he orders splendid new clothes and is very happy when the tailor’s boy mockingly addresses him as “my Lord“.

He applies himself to learning the gentlemanly arts of fencing, dancing, music and philosophy, despite his age.

In doing so he continually manages to make a fool of himself, to the disgust of his hired teachers.

His philosophy lesson becomes a basic lesson on language in which he is surprised and delighted to learn that he has been speaking prose all his life without knowing it.

My faith!

For more than forty years I have been speaking prose while knowing nothing of it, and I am the most obliged person in the world to you for telling me so.

Above: The Middle Class Gentleman

Madame Jourdain, his intelligent wife, sees that he is making a fool of himself and urges him to return to his previous middle-class life, and to forget all he has learned.

A cash-strapped nobleman called Dorante has attached himself to M. Jourdain.

He secretly despises Jourdain but flatters his aristocratic dreams.

For example, by telling Jourdain that he mentioned his name to the King at Versailles, he can get Jourdain to pay his debts.

Jourdain’s dreams of being upper-class go higher and higher.

He dreams of marrying a Marchioness, Dorimène, and having his daughter Lucille marry a nobleman.

But Lucille is in love with the middle-class Cléonte.

Of course, M. Jourdain refuses his permission for Lucille to marry Cléonte.

Then Cléonte, with the assistance of his valet Covielle and Mme Jourdain, disguises himself and presents himself to Jourdain as the son of the Sultan of Turkey.

Jourdain is taken in and is very pleased to have his daughter marry foreign royalty.

He is even more delighted when the “Turkish prince” informs him that, as father of the bride, he too will be officially ennobled at a special ceremony.

The play ends with this ridiculous ceremony, including a pidgin language standing in for Turkish.

Le bourgeois gentilhomme, comédie-balet faite à Chambort, pour le divertissement du Roy, 1673

In 1672, Madeleine Béjart died.

Molière suffered from this loss and from the worsening of his own illness.

Nevertheless, he wrote the successful Scapin’s Deceits, a farce and a comedy in five acts.

Above: Illustration for the printed text of Scapin’s Deceits

Scapin constantly lies and tricks people to get ahead.

He is an arrogant, pompous man who acts as if nothing were impossible for him.

However, he is also a diplomatic genius.

He manages to play the other characters off of each other very easily, and yet manages to keep his overall goal — to help the young couples — in sight.

In their fathers’ absence, Octave has secretly married Hyacinthe and Léandre has secretly fallen in love with Zerbinette.

But the fathers return from a trip with marriage plans for their respective sons.

Scapin, after hearing many pleas for help, comes to their rescue.

Thanks to many tricks and lies, Scapin manages to come up with enough money from the parents to make sure that the young couples get to stay married.

But, no one knows who Hyacinthe and Zerbinette really are.

It ends in the classic “And they lived happily ever after,” and Scapin is even brought to the head of the table at the ending feast (even though he has to fake a fatal wound to make it happen).

Frontispice de la première édition de 1671.

The Learned Ladies of 1672 is considered another of Molière’s masterpieces.

It was a great success, and it led to his last work, which is still held in high esteem.

Above: Illustration for the printed text of The Learned Ladies

Two young people, Henriette and Clitandre, are in love, but in order to marry, they must overcome an obstacle:

The attitude of Henriette’s family.

Her sensible father and uncle are in favour of the marriage; but unfortunately her father is under the thumb of his wife, Philaminte.

And Philaminte, supported by Henriette’s aunt and sister, wishes her to marry Trissotin, a “scholar” and mediocre poet with lofty aspirations, who has these three women completely in his thrall.

For these three ladies are “learned“:

Their obsession in life is learning and culture of the most pretentious kind, and Trissotin is their special protégé and the fixture of their literary salon.

Above: Illustration in printed text of The Learned Ladies

In his 14 years in Paris, Molière singlehandedly wrote 31 of the 85 plays performed on his stage.

Above: Molière

Molière suffered from pulmonary tuberculosis, possibly contracted when he was imprisoned for debt as a young man.

The circumstances of Molière’s death, on 17 February 1673, became legend.

He collapsed on stage in a fit of coughing and haemorrhaging while performing in the last play he had written, ironically titled The Hypochrondriac.

Molière insisted on completing his performance.

Above: Illustration for The Hypochondriac

Photo récente du fauteuil dans une vitrine de musée.
Above: Armchair used by Molière during his last performance, exhibited at the Richelieu Room of the Comédie Française – It is a tradition that on the anniversary of his birth, this armchair descends from the hangers in the middle of the whole troop.

Afterwards he collapsed again with another, larger haemorrhage before being taken home, where he died a few hours later, without receiving the last rites because two priests refused to visit him while a third arrived too late.

The superstition that green brings bad luck to actors is said to originate from the colour of the clothing he was wearing at the time of his death.

Engraving.  The dying man seated in an armchair, the two sisters kneeling in prayer by his side.
Above: The death of Molière

Under French law at the time, actors were not allowed to be buried in the sacred ground of a cemetery.

However, Molière’s widow, Armande, asked the King if her spouse could be granted a normal funeral at night.

The King agreed and Molière’s body was buried in the part of the cemetery reserved for unbaptised infants.

In 1792, his remains were brought to the Museum of French Monuments, and in 1817, transferred to Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris, close to those of famed fable writer La Fontaine.

Above: Molière’s tomb at the Père Lachaise Cemetery

There seems much in Molière’s writing that seems to fit the current conditions of Turkey.

Are there not characters in Turkey like The Bungler who will do almost anything to achieve the love they desire?

Are there not Tartuffes claiming to be someone they are not, sinners pretending to be saints?

Are there not gentlemen in government wishing to be seen as greater than they are, grander than they deserve to be?

Is this 21st century Republic so different from 17th century France?

Is there not still hypocrisy in the halls of power?

Is there not still gullibility in many of the masses?

Is not moderation and reason still the superior way of fighting that which is wrong?

Are there not still pretenders of piety and hacks of humility in the corridors of the corrupt?

Is not Molière’s admonishment to question the motives and manipulations of those around us, of those who would rule you, still valid over three centuries later?

Is not comedy still an effective way of speaking truth to power and imparting information to the ignorant?

Those in Ankara would wish we would not deride them, but perhaps they should cease doing deeds worthy of our derision.

Drawing of a game of palm transformed into a theater.  On each side, a balcony extends above the stage.

And then there is the story of the Bug Boy….

Amsterdam, Netherlands, Saturday 17 February 1680

Various phases of life are different forms of the same animal.

Jan Swammerdam (1637 – 1680) was a Dutch biologist and microscopist.

Jan Swammerdam.jpg

Swammerdam's birthplace
Above: Plaque, Jan Swammerdam’s Birthplace, Amsterdam

His work on insects demonstrated that the various phases during the life of an insect — egg, larva, pupa and adult —are different forms of the same animal.

Insect collage.png

As part of his anatomical research, he carried out experiments on muscle contraction.

Top-down view of skeletal muscle

In 1658, he was the first to observe and describe red blood cells.

He was one of the first people to use the microscope in dissections, and his techniques remained useful for hundreds of years.

Compound Microscope (cropped).JPG

Swammerdam’s father was an apothecary, and an amateur collector of minerals, coins, fossils, and insects from around the world.

As a youngster Swammerdam had helped his father to take care of his curiosity collection.

While studying medicine Swammerdam started his own collection of insects.

While studying medicine Swammerdam had started to dissect insects and after qualifying as a doctor, Swammerdam focused on insects.

His father pressured him to earn a living, but Swammerdam persevered and in late 1669 published The General History of Insects.

The book of nature; or, the history of insects | Jan Swammerdam

The treatise summarised his study of insects he had collected in France and around Amsterdam.

He countered the prevailing Aristotelian notion that insects were imperfect animals that lacked internal anatomy.

Following the publication, his father withdrew all financial support.

As a result, Swammerdam was forced, at least occasionally, to practice medicine in order to finance his own research.

He obtained leave at Amsterdam to dissect the bodies of those who died in the hospital.

KeizersgrachtReguliersgrachtAmsterdam.jpg
Above: Amsterdam, the Netherlands

At university Swammerdam engaged deeply in the religious and philosophical ideas of his time.

He categorically opposed the ideas behind spontaneous generation, which held that God had created some creatures, but not insects.

Swammerdam argued that this would blasphemously imply that parts of the universe were excluded from God’s will.

In his scientific study Swammerdam tried to prove that God’s creation happened time after time, and that it was uniform and stable.

Michelangelo - Creation of Adam (cropped).jpg
Above: Michelangelo, The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Swammerdam was much influenced by René Descartes, whose natural philosophy had been widely adopted by Dutch intellectuals.

In Discours de la methode, Descartes had argued that nature was orderly and obeyed fixed laws, thus nature could be explained rationally.

Frans Hals - Portret van René Descartes.jpg
Above: René Descartes (1596 – 1650)

Swammerdam was convinced that the creation, or generation, of all creatures obeyed the same laws.

Having studied the reproductive organs of men and women at university he set out to study the generation of insects.

He had devoted himself to studying insects after discovering that the king bee was indeed a queen bee.

Swammerdam knew this because he had found eggs inside the creature.

But he did not publish this finding.

In 1669 Swammerdam was visited by Cosimo II de’ Medici and showed him another revolutionary discovery.

Justus Sustermans 010.jpg
Above: Cosimo II de’ Medici (1590 – 1621)

Inside a caterpillar the limbs and wings of the butterfly could be seen (now called the imaginal discs).

When Swammerdam published The General History of Insects later that year he not only did away with the idea that insects lacked internal anatomy, but also attacked the Christian notion that insects originated from spontaneous generation and that their life cycle was a metamorphosis.

Swammerdam maintained that all insects originated from eggs and their limbs grew and developed slowly.

Thus there was no distinction between insects and so-called higher animals.

Swammerdam declared war on “vulgar errors” and the symbolic interpretation of insects was, in his mind, incompatible with the power of God, the almighty architect.

Swammerdam therefore dispelled the 17th century notion of metamorphosis — the idea that different life stages of an insect (e.g. caterpillar and butterfly) represent different individuals or a sudden change from one type of animal to another.

File:Fesoj - Papilio machaon (by).jpg

Convinced that all insects were worth studying, Swammerdam had compiled an epic treatise on as many insects as he could, using the microscope and dissection.

Swammerdam described the anatomy of silkworms, mayflies, ants, stag beetles, cheese mites, bees and many other insects.

His scientific observations were infused by the presence of God, the almighty Creator.

Above: Reproductive organs of the queen bee

Swammerdam’s praise of the louse went on to become a classic:

Herewith I offer you the Omnipotent Finger of God in the anatomy of a louse:

Wherein you will find miracle heaped on miracle and see the wisdom of God clearly manifested in a minute point.”

Fahrenholzia pinnata.JPG
Above: A louse

Swammerdam’s The General History of Insects was widely known and applauded before he died.

Two years after his death in 1680 it was translated into French and in 1685 it was translated into Latin. 

John Ray, author of the 1705 Historia insectorum, praised Swammerdam’ methods, they were “the best of all“.

John Ray from NPG.jpg
Above: John Ray (1627 – 1705)

Though Swammerdam’s work on insects and anatomy was significant, many current histories remember him as much for his methods and skill with microscopes as for his discoveries.

He developed new techniques for examining, preserving, and dissecting specimens, including wax injection to make viewing blood vessels easier.

A method he invented for the preparation of hollow human organs was later much employed in anatomy.

Above:  Andreas Vesalius’ De humani corporis fabrica

He corresponded with contemporaries across Europe and his friends Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz and Nicholas Malebranche used his microscopic research to substantiate their own natural and moral philosophy.

File:Christoph Bernhard Francke - Bildnis des Philosophen Leibniz (ca. 1695).jpg
Above: Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz (1646 – 1716)

Nicolas Malebranche.jpg
Above: Nicholas Malebranche (1638 – 1715)

But Swammerdam has also been credited with heralding the natural theology of the 18th century, were God’s grand design was detected in the mechanics of the solar system, the seasons, snowflakes and the anatomy of the human eye.

A representative image of the Solar System with sizes, but not distances, to scale

Global tropical cyclone tracks-edit2.jpg

Human eye with blood vessels.jpg

In Haarlem a square is named after him, in Terneuzen, Amsterdam, Badhoevedorn and Hilversum a street, in Usselstein a road, in Bennekom and Doetinchem an avenue. 

Finally, in Amsterdam both the Jan Swammerdam Institute and a nearby bridge bear his name.

Jan Swammerdam Facts for Kids
Above: Jan Swammerdam Institute, Amsterdam

And yet no one really knows what he looked like, whether he ever married or had children, or much about him as a person separate from his science.

Nevertheless, I think he should be remembered.

If for no other reason than showing us that there is majesty in the miniature, symmetry and significance in the small, a grand design within and without.

Caen, Normandy, France, Sunday 17 February 1732

Antoine Galland was born at Rollot in Picardy.

QT - Antoine Galland.PNG
Above: Antoine Galland (1646 – 1715)

Monument to Antoine Galland
Above: Antoine Galland Monument, Rollot, Picardy, France

After completing school at Noyon, he studied Greek and Latin in Paris, where he also acquired some Arabic.

The cathedral
Above: Noyon Cathedral

In 1670 he was attached to the French Embassy at Constantinople (Istanbul), because of his excellent knowledge of languages.

Aerial overview
Above: modern Istanbul

In 1673, he travelled in the Levant (present-day Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, Israel, Palestine, and most of Turkey southeast of the Euphrates River) where he copied a great number of inscriptions, sketched and — in some cases — removed historical monuments.

After a brief visit to France, where his collection of ancient coins attracted some attention, Galland returned to the Levant in 1677.

Levant
Above: The Levant – (pale green) the historic Levant (eastern Mediterranean) / (light green) 20th century Levant / (dark green) 21st century Levant

In 1679 he undertook a third voyage, commissioned by the French East India Company to collect for the cabinet of Colbert (see above).

Drapeau du régiment de la Compagnie des Indes en 1756.png
Above: Flag of the French East India Company

On the expiration of this commission, he was instructed by the government to continue his research, and had the title of Antiquary to the King (Louis XIV) conferred upon him.

During his prolonged residences abroad, he acquired a thorough knowledge of the Arabic, Turkish, and Persian languages and literatures, which, on his final return to France, enabled him to render valuable assistance to Melchisédech Thévenot, the keeper of the Royal Library, and to Barthélemy d’Herbelot de Molainville, a French Orientalist.

Above: Barthélemy d’Herbelot de Molainville (1625 – 1695)

(Melchisédech Thévenot (1620 – 1692) was a French author, scientist, traveler, cartographer, orientalist, inventor, and diplomat.

Above: Melchisédech Thévenot

He was the inventor of the spirit level.

Above: A spirit level

Thévenot is also famous for his popular 1696 book The Art of Swimming, one of the first books on the subject and widely read during the 18th century.

Above: “Swimming with your head turned to Heaven” – illustration from 
The Art of Swimming

(Benjamin Franklin, an avid swimmer in his youth, is known to have read it).

Joseph Siffrein Duplessis - Benjamin Franklin - Google Art Project.jpg
Above: Benjamin Franklin (1706 – 1790)

The book popularized the breaststroke.

Above: Michael Phelps swimming breaststroke

Thévenot was inducted into the International Swimming Hall of Fame in 1990.

USA.FL.FtLauderdale.ISHOF.01.jpg
Above: International Swimming Hall of Fame, Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Thévenot also influenced the founding of the Académie Royale des Sciences (the French Academy of Sciences). )

Above: Colbert Presenting the Members of the Royal Academy of Sciences to Louis XIV in 1667

Galland had come across a manuscript of The Tale of Sindbad the Sailor in Constantinople during the 1690s.

In 1701, he published his translation of it into French.

Above: Sinbad the Sailor: “Having balanced my cargo exactly…

Its success encouraged him to embark on a translation of a 14th century Syrian manuscript (now known as the Gallard Manuscript) of The Thousand and One Nights.

The first two volumes of this work, under the title Mille et Une Nuits, appeared in 1704.

The 12th and final volume was published posthumously in 1717.

Above: The first European edition of the Arabian Nights, Les Mille et une Nuits, Antoine Galland (1730), Paris

He translated the first part of his work solely from the Syrian manuscript.

In 1709 he was introduced to Hanna Diab (1688 – 1763), a Maronite Christian from Aleppo (Syria), who recounted 14 more stories to Galland from memory.

He chose to include seven of these tales in his version of the Nights.

Aladdin and the Magic Lamp (English Edition) eBook: Hanna Diyab: Amazon.de:  Kindle-Shop

Mystery still surrounds the origins of some of the most famous tales.

For instance, there are no Arabic manuscripts of Aladdin and Ali Baba, the “orphan tales“, which pre-date Galland’s translation.

This has led some scholars to conclude that Galland invented them himself and the Arabic versions are merely later renderings of his original French.

Alad.jpg
Above: Aladdin finds the wonderful lamp inside the cave

Above: Cover of Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves

Galland also adapted his translation to the taste of the time.

The immediate success the tales enjoyed was partly due to the vogue for fairy tales (contes de fees), which were started in France in the 1690s by his friend Charles Perrault.

Portrait (detail) by Philippe Lallemand, 1672
Above: Charles Perrault (1628 – 1703)

(Charles Perrault was a French author and member of the Académie Française.

He laid the foundations for a new literary genre, the fairy tale, with his works derived from earlier folk tales, published in his 1697 book Histoires ou contes du temps passé.

Above: Title page of the 1695 manuscript 

The best known of his tales include: 

  • Le Petit Chaperon Rouge (Little Red Riding Hood)

Little Red Riding Hood - J. W. Smith.jpg

  • Cendrillon (Cindrella) 

Aschenputtel.jpg

  • Le Maître chat ou le Chat botté (Puss in Boots)

Édition Curmer (1843) - Le Chat botté - 1.png
  • La Belle au bois dormant (Sleeping Beauty)

Prince Florimund finds the Sleeping Beauty - Project Gutenberg etext 19993.jpg
  • Barbe Bleue (Bluebeard)

Blue Beard in Tales of Mother Goose (Welsh).png

Some of Perrault’s versions of old stories influenced the German versions published by the Brothers Grimm more than 100 years later.

The stories continue to be printed and have been adapted to opera, ballet, theatre, and film.

Perrault was an influential figure in the 17th-century French literary scene.)

Above: Wilhelm Grimm (1786–1859) and Jacob Grimm (1785–1863)

Galland was also eager to conform to the literary canons of the era.

He cut many of the erotic passages as well as all of the poetry.

This caused Sir Richard Burton (the explorer not the actor) to refer to “Galland’s delightful abbreviation and adaptation” which “in no wise represents the eastern original“.

Burton’s translation was greeted with immense enthusiasm and had soon been translated into many other European languages.

They produced a wave of imitations and the widespread 18th century fashion for oriental tales.

Richard Francis Burton by Rischgitz, 1864.jpg
Above: Richard Burton (1821 – 1890)

As Jorge Luis Borges wrote:

Borges in 1967
Above: Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges (1899 – 1986) (Fictions / The Aleph)

Another fact is undeniable.

The most famous and eloquent encomiums of The Thousand and One Nights — by Coleridge, Thomas de Quincey, Stendhal, Tennyson, Edgar Allan Poe, Newman — are from readers of Galland’s translation.

Two hundred years and ten better translations have passed, but the man in Europe or the Americas who thinks of the Thousand and One Nights thinks, invariably, of this first translation.

The Spanish adjective “milyunanochesco” [thousand-and-one-nights-esque] has nothing to do with the erudite obscenities of Burton or Mardrus and everything to do with Antoine Galland’s bijoux and sorceries.”

Coleridge in 1795
Above: English poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge (1772 – 1834) (The Rime of the Ancient Mariner / Kubla Khan)

Thomas de Quincey by Sir John Watson-Gordon
Above: English writer Thomas de Quincey (1785 – 1859) (Confessions of an English Opium Eater)

Stendhal, by Olof Johan Södermark, 1840
Above: French writer Stendhal ( Marie-Henri Beyle) (1783 – 1842) (The Red and the Black / The Charterhouse of Parma)

Alfred Tennyson, 1st Baron Tennyson by George Frederic Watts.jpg
Above: English poet Alfred Tennyson (1809 – 1892) (The Charge of the Light Brigade)

1849 "Annie" daguerreotype of Poe
Above: American writer Edgar Allan Poe (1809 – 1849) (The Raven)

John Henry Newman by Sir John Everett Millais
Above: English theologian/poet John Henry Newman (1801 – 1890) (The Dream of Gerontius)

Image in Infobox.
Above: Illustration of French translator Dr. Joseph-Charles Madrus (1868 – 1949)

When d’Herbelot died in 1695, Galland continued his Bibliothèque orientale (“Oriental Library“), a huge compendium of information about Islamic culture, and principally a translation of the great Arabic encyclopedia Kaşf az-Zunūn by the celebrated Ottoman scholar Kâtip Celebi (1609 – 1657).

Above: This map of the Indian Ocean and the Chinese Sea was engraved in 1728 by the Hungarian-born Ottoman cartographer and publisher Ibrahim Mütefeffika.
It is one of a series that illustrated Katip Çelebi’s Universal Geography, the first printed book of maps and drawings to appear in the Islamic world.

It was finally published in 1697 and was a major contribution to European knowledge about the Middle East, influencing writers such as William Beckford (in his oriental tale Vathek).

William (Thomas) Beckford.jpg
Above: English novelist William Beckford (1760 – 1844)

Besides a number of archaeological works, especially in the department of numismatics (coins), Galland published in 1694 a compilation from the Arabic, Persian, and Turkish, entitled Paroles remarquables, bons mots et maximes des orientaux, and in 1699 a translation from an Arabic manuscript, De l’origine et du progrès du café.

Amazon.fr - Les paroles remarquables, les bons mots, et les maximes des  Orientaux - Galland, Antoine - Livres

After the deaths of Thévenot and d’Herbelot, Galland lived for some time at Caen under the roof of Nicolas Foucault, the intendant of Caen, himself no mean archaeologist.

Mairie de Caen 7.JPG
Above: Abbaye aux Hommes, Caen

There he began, in 1704, the publication of Les mille et une Nuits, which excited immense interest during the time of its appearance and is still the standard French translation.

In 1709 he was appointed to the chair of Arabic in the Collège de France.

He continued to discharge the duties of this post until his death in 1715.

Collège de France logo.svg
Above: Logo of the Collège de France, Paris

His Contes et fables indiennes de Bidpai et de Lokrnan was published posthumously in 1724.

Among his numerous manuscripts are a translation of the Qur’an and a Histoire générale des empereurs Turcs.

Quran opened, resting on a stand
Above: Qu’ran

His journal was published by Charles Schefer in 1881.

Journal d'Antoine Galland pendant son séjour à Constantinople, 1672–1673 2  Volume Paperback Set: Journal D'Antoine Galland Pendant Son Sejour a ... -  Travel, Middle East and Asia Minor: Amazon.de: Schefer, Charles:  Fremdsprachige

Shahryār is a “Sasanian king” ruling in “India and China“.

Shahryār is shocked to learn that his brother’s wife is unfaithful.

Discovering that his own wife’s infidelity has been even more flagrant, he has her killed. In his bitterness and grief, he decides that all women are the same.

Shahryār begins to marry a succession of virgins only to execute each one the next morning, before she has a chance to dishonor him.

Eventually the Vizier, whose duty it is to provide them, cannot find any more virgins. 

Scheherazade, the vizier’s daughter, offers herself as the next bride and her father reluctantly agrees.

On the night of their marriage, Scheherazade begins to tell the King a tale, but does not end it.

The King, curious about how the story ends, is thus forced to postpone her execution in order to hear the conclusion.

The next night, as soon as she finishes the tale, she begins another one, and the King, eager to hear the conclusion of that tale as well, postpones her execution once again.

This goes on for one thousand and one nights.

Above: Scheherazade and Shahryār

The tales vary widely:

They include historical tales, love stories, tragedies, comedies, poems, burlesques, and various forms of erotica.

Numerous stories depicts jinn, ghouls, apes, sorcerers, magicians and legendary places, often intermingled with real people and geography, not always rationally.

Common protagonists include the historical Abbasid Caliph Harun al-Rashid (763 – 809), his Grand Vizier, Jafar al-Barmaki (767 – 803), and the famous poet Abu Nuwas, despite the fact that these figures lived some 200 years after the fall of the Sassanid Empire (224 – 651), in which the frame tale of Scheherazade is set.

Above: Harun al-Rashid receiving a delegation sent by Charlemagne at his court in Baghdad

Abu Nuwas drawn by Khalil Gibran in 1916
Above: Abu Nuwas (756 – 814)

The Sasanian Empire at its greatest extent c. 620, under Khosrow II

Sometimes a character in Scheherazade’s tale will begin telling other characters a story of his own, and that story may have another one told within it, resulting in a richly layered narrative texture.

Different versions differ, at least in detail, as to final endings (in some Scheherazade asks for a pardon, in some the King sees their children and decides not to execute his wife, in some other things happen that make the King distracted) but they all end with the King giving his wife a pardon and sparing her life.

The narrator’s standards for what constitutes a cliffhanger seem broader than in modern literature.

While in many cases a story is cut off with the hero in danger of losing their life or another kind of deep trouble, in some parts of the full text Scheherazade stops her narration in the middle of an exposition of abstract philosophical principles or complex points of Islamic philosophy and in one case during a detailed description of human anatomy according to Galen — and in all of these cases she turns out to be justified in her belief that the King’s curiosity about the sequel would buy her another day of life.

Galenus.jpg
Above: Portrait of Galen of Pergamon (129 – 216)

I like this notion:

Curiosity will buy another day of life.

In Praise of the Incurably Curious Leader

Caracas, Venezuela, Saturday 17 February 1849

Maria de las Mercedes Barbudo was one of four siblings born in San Juan, the capital of Puerto Rico, to a Spanish father, Domingo Barbudo, and Puerto Rican mother, Belén Coronado.

Her father was an officer in the Spanish Army.

The benefits of being the daughter of a military officer was that she could afford to obtain an education and to buy books.

She was one of the few women in the island who learned to read because at the time, the only people who had access to libraries and who could afford books were either appointed Spanish government officials or wealthy landowners.

The poor depended on oral story telling, in what are traditionally known in Puerto Rico as Coplas and Décimas. 

Well educated, Barbudo became interested in politics and social activism.

Maria de las Mercedes Barbudo, independence leader from Ponce, Puerto Rico, circa 1815 (DSC03896Z).jpg
Above: Maria de las Mercedes Barbudo (1773 – 1849)

As a young woman, Barbudo founded a sewing goods store in San Juan, specialising in the sale of buttons, threads and clothes.

She eventually became successful as a personal loan provider.

She dealt commercially with Joaquín Power y Morgan, an immigrant who came to Puerto Rico as a representative of the Compañía de Asiento de Negros, which regulated the slave trade on the island.

Above: San Cristobal Castle, San Juan, Puerto Rico

Barbudo moved in prominent circles, which included notable citizens such as Captain Ramón Power y Giralt (Joaquín’s son), Bishop Juan Alejo de Arizmendi and the artist José Campeche.

Ramón Power y Giralt.png
Above: Ramón Power y Giralt (1775 – 1813)

Above: Juan Alejo de Arizmendi (1760 – 1814)

José Campeche.JPG
Above: Self portrait, José Campeche (1751 – 1809)

She had a liberal mind and as such would often hold meetings with intellectuals in her house.

They discussed the political, social and economic situation of Puerto Rico and the Spanish Empire in general, and proposed solutions to improve the well-being of the people.

Puerto Rico map postcard | Puerto rico map, Puerto rico island, Puerto rico  art

Simón Bolívar and Brigadier General Antonio Valero de Bernabé, known as “The Liberator from Puerto Rico“, dreamed of creating a unified Latin America, including Puerto Rico and Cuba.

Antonio Valero Bernabe.gif
Above: Antonio Valero de Bernabé (1790 – 1863)

Barbudo was inspired by Bolívar.

She supported the idea of independence for the island and learned that Bolívar hoped to establish an American-style federation among all the newly independent republics of Latin America.

He also wanted to promote individual rights.

Portrait of Simón Bolívar by Arturo Michelena.jpg
Above: Simón Bolivar (1783 – 1830)

She befriended and wrote to many Venezuelan revolutionists with whom she regularly corresponded.

She also received magazines and newspapers from Venezuela which upheld the ideals of Bolívar.

Caribbean general map.png

The Spanish authorities in Puerto Rico under Governor Miguel de la Torre were suspicious of the correspondence between Barbudo and the Venezuelan rebel factions.

Secret agents of the Spanish Government intercepted some of her mail, delivering it to Governor de la Torre.

He ordered an investigation and had her mail confiscated.

The government believed that the correspondence served as propaganda of the Bolívarian ideals and that it would also serve to motivate Puerto Ricans to seek their independence.

Miguel de la Torre y Pando.png
Above: Miguel de la Torre (1786 – 1843)

Governor Miguel de la Torre ordered her arrest on the charge that she planned to overthrow the Spanish government in Puerto Rico.

Barbudo was held without bail at the Castilo de San Cristóbal, since the island did not have a prison for women.

Among the evidence which the Spanish authorities presented against her was a letter dated 1 October 1824, from José Maria Rojas in which he told her that the Venezuelan rebels had lost their principal contact with the Puerto Rican independence movement in the Danish island of Saint Thomas (now part of the US Virgin Islands) and therefore the secret communication which existed between the Venezuelan rebels and the leaders of the Puerto Rican independence movement was in danger of being discovered.

US Virgin Islands Maps & Facts | St croix virgin islands, Virgin islands  vacation, St thomas virgin islands

On 22 October 1824, Barbudo appeared at a hearing before a magistrate.

The government presented as evidence against her various letters which included five letters from Rojas, two issues of the newspaper El Observador Caraqueño, two copies of the newspaper El Cometa, and one copy each of the newspapers El Constitucional Caraqueño and El Colombiano, which were sympathetic to Bolívar’s ideals.

When asked if she recognized the correspondence, she answered in the affirmative and refused to answer any more questions.

The government also presented as evidence various anti-monarchy propaganda pamphlets to be distributed throughout the island.

Barbudo was found guilty.

The Spanish Empire at its greatest extent during the second half of the 18th century
Above: The Spanish Empire (1492 – 1976) at its greatest extent during the second half of the 18th century

Governor de la Torre consulted with the prosecutor Francisco Marcos Santaella as to what should be done with Barbudo.

Santaella suggested that she be exiled from Puerto Rico and sent to Cuba.

On 23 October 1824, de la Torre ordered that Barbudo be held under house arrest at the Castillo de San Cristóbal under the custody of Captain Pedro de Loyzaga.

The following day Barbudo wrote to the governor, asking to be able to arrange her financial and her personal obligations before being exiled to Cuba.

The Governor denied her request and on 28 October she was placed aboard the ship El Marinero.

In Cuba, she was held in an institution in which women accused of various crimes were housed.

Cuba Map and Satellite Image

With the help of revolutionary factions, Barbudo escaped and went to St. Thomas Island.

St Thomas Island Map - St Thomas US Virgin Islands • mappery

She eventually arrived at La Guaira in Venezuela where her friend José María Rojas met her.

La Guaira, estado Vargas.jpg
Above: modern La Guiara, Venezuela

They went to Caracas where she met Bolívar.

Above: Caracas, 1839

Barbudo established a close relationship with the members of Bolívar’s cabinet which included José Maria Vargas.

He later was elected as the 4th President of Venezuela.

José María Vargas by Martín Tovar y Tovar.jpg
Above: José María Vargas (1786 – 1854)

She worked closely with the cabinet.

Flag of Venezuela
Above: Flag of Venezuela

Barbudo never married nor had any children and did not return to Puerto Rico.

She died on 17 February 1849.

She was buried in the Cathedral of Caracas next to Simón Bolívar.

Catedral de Caracas.JPG
Above: Caracas Cathedral

In 1996, a documentary was made about her titled Camino sin retorno, el destierro de María de las Mercedes Barbudo (Road of no return, the exile of María de las Mercedes Barbudo).

It was produced and directed by Sonia Fritz.

María de las Mercedes Barbudo: Primera mujer independentista de Puerto  Rico, 1773-1849 (Spanish Edition): Rosario Rivera, Raquel: 9780965003629:  Amazon.com: Books

Douglas, Isle of Man, Friday 17 February 1854

John Martin was born in July 1789, in a one-room cottage, at Haydon Bridge, near Hexham in Northumberland, the 4th son of Fenwick Martin, a one-time fencing master.

Haydon Bridge from the south west.jpg
Above: Haydon Bridge, Northumberland, England

He was apprenticed by his father to a coachbuilder in Newcastle upon Tyne to learn heraldic painting, but owing to a dispute over wages the indentures were cancelled, and he was placed instead under Boniface Musso, an Italian artist, father of the enamel painter Charles Muss.

With his master, Martin moved from Newcastle to London in 1806, where he married at the age of 19, and supported himself by giving drawing lessons, and by painting in watercolours, and on china and glass — his only surviving painted plate is now in a private collection in England.

His leisure was occupied in the study of perspective and architecture.

John Martin by Henry Warren.jpg
Above: John Martin (1789 – 1854)

His brothers were: 

  • William, the eldest, an inventor
  • Richard, a tanner who became a soldier in the Northumberland Fencibles in 1798, rising to the rank of Quartermaster Sergeant in the Grenadier Guards and fought in the Peninsular War (1807 – 1814) and at Waterloo (18 June 1815)
  • Jonathan, a preacher tormented by madness who set fire to York Minster in 1829, for which he stood trial.

Grenadier-Guards-Cap-Badge.jpg
Above: Cap badge of the Grenadier Guards

Martin began to supplement his income by painting sepia watercolours.

He sent his first oil painting to the Royal Academy in 1810, but it was not hung.

In 1811 he sent the painting once again, when it was hung under the title A Landscape Composition as item #46 in the Great Room.

Thereafter, he produced a succession of large exhibited oil paintings: some landscapes, but more usually grand biblical themes inspired by the Old Testament.

Burlington House.jpg
Above: Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington House, London, England

His landscapes have the ruggedness of the Northumberland crags, while some authors claim that his apocalyptic canvasses, such as The Destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah, show his familiarity with the forges and ironworks of the Tyne Valley and display his intimate knowledge of the Old Testament.

In the years of the Regency (1811 – 1820) from 1812 onwards there was a fashion for such ‘sublime’ paintings.

Above: The Destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah

Martin’s first break came at the end of a season at the Royal Academy, where his first major sublime canvas Sadak in Search of the Waters of Oblivion had been hung — and ignored.

He brought it home, only to find there a visiting card from William Manning MP, who wanted to buy it from him.

Patronage propelled Martin’s career.

Above: Sadak in Search of the Waters of Oblivion

This promising career was interrupted by the deaths of his father, mother, grandmother and young son in a single year.

Another distraction was William, who frequently asked him to draw up plans for his inventions, and whom he always indulged with help and money.

Above: William Martin (1772 – 1851)

But, heavily influenced by the works of John Milton, he continued with his grand themes despite setbacks.

John-milton.jpg
Above: English poet John Milton (1608 – 1674) (Paradise Lost)

In 1816 Martin finally achieved public acclaim with Joshua Commanding the Sun to Stand Still upon Gibeon, even though it broke many of the conventional rules of composition.

Above: Joshua Commanding the Sun to Stand Still upon Gibeon

In 1818, on the back of the sale of the Fall of Babylon for £420 (equivalent to £30,000 in 2015), he finally rid himself of debt and bought a house in Marylebone, where he came into contact with artists, writers, scientists and Whig nobility.

The fall of Babylon; Cyrus the Great defeating the Chaldean army, John  Martin, 1831 | Landschaftsmalerei, Klassische kunst, Gemälde
Above: The Fall of Babylon

Martin’s triumph was Belshazzar’s Feast, of which he boasted beforehand:

It shall make more noise than any picture ever did before.

Only don’t tell anyone I said so.”

Five thousand people paid to see it.

It was later nearly ruined when the carriage in which it was being transported was struck by a train at a level crossing near Oswestry.

Above: Belshazzar’s Feast

In private Martin was passionate, a devotee of chess — and, in common with his brothers, swordsmanship and javelin-throwing — and a devout Christian, believing in “natural religion“.

A selection of black and white chess pieces on a checkered surface.

Despite an often cited singular instance of his hissing at the national anthem, he was courted by royalty and presented with several gold medals, one of them from the Russian Tsar Nicholas, on whom a visit to Wallsend Colliery on Tyneside had made an unforgettable impression:

My God,” he had cried, “it is like the mouth of Hell.”

Botman - Emperor Nicholas I (cropped).jpg
Above: Russian Tsar Nicolas I (1796 – 1855)

Wallsend Colliery (1778 - 1935) | Co-Curate
Above: Wallsend Colliery

Martin became the official historical painter to Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg, later the first King of Belgium.

Leopold was the godfather of Martin’s son Leopold and endowed Martin with the Order of Leopold.

NICAISE Leopold ANV.jpg
Above: Belgian King Leopold I (1790 – 1865)

Martin frequently had early morning visits from another sovereign of Saxe-Coburg, Prince Albert, who would engage him in banter from his horse — Martin standing in the doorway still in his dressing gown — at seven o’clock in the morning.

Portrait photograph of Prince Albert aged 41
Above: Prince Albert (1819 – 1861)

Martin was a defender of deism and natural religion, evolution (before Charles Darwin) and rationality. 

Three quarter length studio photo showing Darwin's characteristic large forehead and bushy eyebrows with deep set eyes, pug nose and mouth set in a determined look. He is bald on top, with dark hair and long side whiskers but no beard or moustache. His jacket is dark, with very wide lapels, and his trousers are a light check pattern. His shirt has an upright wing collar, and his cravat is tucked into his waistcoat which is a light fine checked pattern.
Above: English biologist Charles Darwin (1809 – 1882)

Georges Cuvier became an admirer of Martin’s, and he increasingly enjoyed the company of scientists, artists and writers — Charles Dickens, Michael Faraday and J.M.W. Turner among them.

Georges Cuvier.png
Above: French zoologist Georges Cuvier (1769 – 1832)

Charles Dickens
Above: English writer Charles Dickens (1812 – 1879) (Oliver Twist / David Copperfield)

M Faraday Th Phillips oil 1842.jpg
Above: English scientist Michael Faraday (1791 – 1867)

Joseph Mallord William Turner Self Portrait 1799.jpg
Above:English painter Joseph Mallord William Turner (1775 – 1851)

Martin began to experiment with mezzotint technology, and as a result was commissioned to produce 24 engravings for a new edition of Paradise Lost — perhaps the definitive illustrations of Milton’s masterpiece, of which copies now fetch many hundreds of pounds.

Above: Pandemonium

Politically his sympathies are not clear.

Some claim he was a radical, but this is not borne out by known facts, although he knew William Godwin, (the ageing reformed revolutionist, husband of Mary Wollstonecraft and father of Mary Shelley), and John Hunt (1775 – 1848), co-founder of The Examiner (1808 – 1886)

William Godwin by Henry William Pickersgill.jpg
Above: William Godwin (1756 – 1836)

Left-looking half-length portrait of a woman in a white dress
Above: English philosopher Mary Wollstonecraft (1759 – 1797) (A Vindication on the Rights of Women)

Half-length portrait of a woman wearing a black dress sitting on a red sofa. Her dress is off the shoulder. The brush strokes are broad.
Above: Mary Shelley (1797 – 1851) (Frankenstein)

File:The Examiner 1808-01-03- Iss 1 (IA sim examiner-a-weekly-paper-on-politics-literature-music 1808-01-03 1).pdf

At one time the Martins took under their wing a young woman, Jane Webb, who at 20 produced The Mummy, a socially optimistic but satirical vision of a steam-driven world in the 22nd century.

Jane Loudon crop.jpg
Above: Jane Webb

The Mummy! 1828 second edition.jpg

Another friend was Charles Wheatstone, professor of physics at King’s College, London.

Wheatstone experimented with telegraphy and invented the concertina and stereoscope.

Martin was fascinated by his attempts to measure the speed of light.

Wheatstone Charles drawing 1868.jpg
Above: English inventor/scientist Charles Wheatstone (1802 – 1875)

Accounts of Martin’s evening parties reveal an astonishing array of thinkers, eccentrics and social movers.

One witness was a young John Tenniel — later the illustrator of Lewis Carroll’s work — who was heavily influenced by Martin and was a close friend of his children.

At various points Martin’s brothers were also among the guests, their eccentricities and conversation adding to the already exotic flavour of the fare.

John Tenniel.png
Above: John Tenniel (1820 – 1914)

Above: Caterpillar using a hookah – an illustration from Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland

His profile was raised further in February 1829 when his elder brother, non-conformist Jonathan Martin (1782 – 1838), deliberately set fire to York Minster.

The fire caused extensive damage and the scene was likened by an onlooker to Martin’s work, oblivious to the fact that it had more to do with him than it initially seemed.

Jonathan Martin’s defence at his trial was paid for with John Martin’s money.

Jonathan Martin, known as “Mad Martin“, was ultimately found guilty but was spared the hangman’s noose on the grounds of insanity.

Martin from about 1827 to 1828 had turned away from painting, and became involved with many plans and inventions.

He developed a fascination with solving London’s water and sewage problems, involving the creation of the Thames Embankment, containing a central drainage system.

His plans were visionary, and formed the basis for later engineers’ designs.

His 1834 plans for London’s sewerage system anticipated by some 25 years the 1859 proposals of Joseph Bazalgette to create intercepting sewers complete with walkways along both banks of the River Thames.

Above: English civil engineer Joseph Bazalgette (1819 – 1891)

He also made plans for railway schemes, including lines on both banks of the Thames.

The plans, along with ideas for “laminating timber“, lighthouses, and draining islands, all survive.

Debt and family pressures, including the suicide of his nephew (Jonathan’s son Richard) brought on depression which reached its worst in 1838.

From 1839 Martin’s fortunes recovered and he exhibited many works during the 1840s.

Above: Manfred and the Alpine Witch

During the last four years of his life Martin was engaged in a trilogy of large paintings of biblical subjects: The Last Judgment, The Great Day of His Wrath, and The Plains of Heaven.

Above: The Last Judgment

Above: The Great Day of His Wrath

John Martin - The Plains of Heaven - Google Art Project.jpg
Above: The Plains of Heaven

They were completed in 1853, just before the stroke which paralysed his right side.

He was never to recover and died on 17 February 1854, on the Isle of Man.

He is buried in Kirk Braddan cemetery.

Major exhibitions of his works are still mounted.

Above: John Martin

There are more biographies I could recount surrounding this date (17 February) in history:

  • German poet Heinrich Heine (1797 – 1856)
  • American inventor Christopher Latham Sholes (1819 – 1890)
  • Canadian Prime Minister Sir Wilfrid Laurier (1841 – 1919)
  • Belgian King Albert I (1875 – 1934)
  • American actress Dorothy Gibson (1889 – 1946)
  • Turkish politician Lufti Kadar (1887 – 1961), one of the victims of the aforementioned coup d’état
  • Ukraine writer S.Y. Agnon (1888 – 1970)
  • Ugandan Archbishop Janani Luwun (1922 – 1982)
  • American jazzman Theolonious Monk (1917 – 1982)
  • Indian philosopher Jiddu Kushnamurti (1895 – 1986)
  • French mountaineer Jean-Marc Boivin (1951 – 1990)
  • American writer Randy Shilts (1951 – 1994)
  • Chilean bullfighter Conchita Cintrón (1922 – 2009)

And there is something in all these biographies that makes me think of Heidi Hoi, the heroine of my Swiss Miss travelogues.

But I am particularly inspired by the aforementioned Giordano Bruno, Mesrop Mashtot, Molière, Jan Swammerdam, Antoine Galland, Maria de las Mercedes Barbudo and John Martin, in respect to how their lives resemble aspects of Heidi’s character and her motivations to travel and express her creativity.

Bruno held fast to his beliefs and remains a symbol of free thought and speech.

Molière was always aware of the melancholy of life and yet found gaiety and meaning from within this.

Swammerdam saw the grand design and significance in everything.

Galland wanted to learn, wanted to share, all that he discovered in the lands and literature his travels led him.

Barbudo was an independently-minded woman, a free thinker, who followed her heart.

Martin was a man of visions and I find his painting Sadak in Search of the Waters of Oblivion particularly apt to the tale of Swiss Miss I am about to tell.

Above: Sadak in Search of the Waters of Oblivion

Sadak in Search of the Waters of Oblivion is an 1812 oil painting by John Martin.

It has been called “the most famous of the British romantic works“. 

It was the first of Martin’s characteristically dramatic, grand, grandiose large pictures, and anchored the development of the style for which Martin would become famous.

The painting shows a human figure climbing in a mountain landscape.

The man struggles to surmount a rocky outcrop beside a pool and waterfall.

More jagged cliffs and peaks loom in the background, vastly receding.

Martin later stated that he finished the work in a month.

He wrote:

You may easily guess my anxiety when I overheard the men who were to place it in the frame disputing as to which was the top of the picture!

Hope almost forsook me, for much depended on this work.

(At the time, Martin had left his £2-per-week job as a glass painter in a china factory, and was attempting to establish himself as an independent artist.)

The artist’s anxiety was unnecessary.

Displayed in the Royal Academy exhibition at Somerset House, the picture was a popular success.

The courtyard of Somerset House, from the North Wing entrance
Above: Somerset House, London

It was purchased for fifty guineas by William Manning, a member of the Board of Governors of the Bank of England.

Reportedly, Manning’s “dying son had been moved by its depiction of the slight solitary figure clinging perilously to a ledge“.

Seal of the Bank of England
Above: Seal of the Bank of England

For many years the painting was known only in a reduced version in the Southampton City Art Gallery.

Above: Version in the Southampton City Art Gallery

The full-size original was discovered in Sweden and acquired by the St. Louis Art Musuem in 1983.

What makes the work so remarkable is its persuasive combination of science and fantasy: while the scale seems beyond terrestrial experience, the attention given to geological and meteorological phenomena is that of the knowledgeable observer.”

StLouisArtMuseum.jpg
Above: St. Louis Art Museum, St. Louis, Missouri, USA

Critics who accept the conventions of Romanticism in art have appreciated Martin’s Sadak.

Those who do not have regarded the picture as lurid or puzzling.

Martin’s Romantic style can be seen as influenced by prevailing Promethean zeitgeist.

This is the story of Prometheus, the Greek God who betrayed Zeus and stole the secret gift of fire.

Eventually this became a popular metaphor to depict in romantic works of art, because romantics were known for employing the role of nature vs. man in their works.

They believed that humans were obsolete to the natural world around them.

Above: Prometheus Brings Fire

Due to this interpretation, Sadak is drawn to a much smaller scale than the landscape that surrounds him, revealing that he stands no chance against the power of nature.

Also, romanticism arose during the Industrial Revolution, a time when engineers and scientists were exploring nature’s secret gifts, analogous to the act of Prometheus stealing the secret gift of fire.

Romantics portray the unknown of nature with its unpredictability, intractability, and barbaric capabilities as an opposite of Enlightenment thought.

This can be seen in the background of Sadak in Search of the Waters of Oblivion with an erupting volcano taking place in an other worldly dimension.

The idea behind the piece was not to render a precise location and to be accurate in its depiction, but to express the emotion that was being experienced by the subject.

Another key factor of Martin’s style can also be seen as “end of the world” or “apocalyptic“.

Although, he depicts a grim scene Martin shows a mere chance of hope in the distance.

A glimmering stream of light beams in the corner, giving the viewer a sense of aspiration.

Sadak is a fictional character in a story in James Ridley’s The Tales of the Genii (two volumes, 1764), a faux-Oriental tale allegedly from a Persian manuscript, but actually the work of Ridley (1736 – 1765) himself.

tales of the genii - ZVAB

In Ridley’s story, the hero Sadak is sent by his Sultan, Amurath, to find the memory-destroying “waters of oblivion“.

The Sultan maliciously intends to use the waters on Sadak’s wife Kalasrade in a seduction attempt.

Sadak endures a range of trials — a tempest at sea, a plague, evil genii, a subterranean whirlpool — before he attains his goal.

In the end, the Sultan himself falls victim to the water’s effect.

Amurath dies.

Sadak becomes Sultan.

Martin’s picture portrays Sadak at the climax of his struggle, just before he reaches the Waters of Oblivion.

The Tales of the Genii.jpg

Hanoi, Vietnam, Wednesday 20 March 2019

Night time.

Her last night in Hanoi.

What is a footloose and free-thinking single girl on her own to do on her last night in Hanoi?

Many options presented themselves to her.

Hanoi Nightlife: The BEST Bars in Hanoi Old Quarter

Bia hoi bars are abundant in the streets of the Old Quarter.

At the crossing of Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen five separate venues fill up with travellers in the evenings, but you can get more local atmosphere on some of the side streets.

Bia Hoi Junction - Führer Vietnam

Hanoi is a lively city on the weekends, but the Old Quarter closes relatively early (at midnight) on weekdays, so you might want to start your night early.

Other places outside the Old Quarter stay open later and vary in closing times.

Nightlife In Hanoi - Where to Go at Night in Hanoi – BestAsiaTours

Local young people gather around the Cathedral located in Ly Quoc Su to have lemon ice tea (tra chanh) and sunflower seeds in street bars.

Hanoi's lemon tea - Hanoi street food & drink

After dark it gets quite crowded.

Sit on a plastic chair in front of one of the bia hoi (fresh beer) establishments which are invariably on the corners of many of Hanoi’s Old Quarter streets.

This preservative-free light beer is the perfect drink to sip as you watch the city’s frenetic bustle.

The beer costs less than 5,000 dong (£0.15 / CHF 0.20 / C$ 0.30 / TL 1.86) gives you an excuse to relax and take photos of the passing local characters, which should not be missed.

Bia hoi: World's cheapest draft beer? | CNN Travel

In the Old Quarter, you will find that almost every corner is filled with stalls selling pho (Vietnamese noodle) and cafe (the name is not limited only to coffee, but also tea, sweets and grocery items, and even to pho).

Vietnamesische Nudelsuppe (Pho) - Madame Cuisine

On Tô Tich, a small street connecting Hang Quat and Hang Gai, you can help yourself to a refreshing fruit milkshake (sinh tố) at one of the stalls (7,000 dong / £0.21 / CHF 0.27 / C$ 0.37 / TL 2.60).

Địa chỉ cuối tuần: Quán sinh tố gần công trường vẫn đông khách ở Hà Nội -  Ngôi sao

Heidi enjoys a good drink like any other young person of legal drinking age, but tomorrow she has planned to take a mini-bus to Ha Long Bay (77.76 miles / 125.15 km east of Hanoi) followed by a boat tour, so she did not want to feel ill tomorrow as a consequence of frivolity tonight.

Ha Long Bay in 2019.jpg
Above: Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

As well, though she had been brave enough to sample frog in the Night Market, she didn’t feel quite up to the challenge of trying cobra, dog meat, giant water bug or boiled duck foetuses.

Even though next to Beijing, Hanoi is probably the second in the running in the world’s exotic food paradise, Heidi decided to forego exotica this evening, opting instead for pho or whatever might strike her fancy from a street stall.

Night market in Hanoi, Vietnam | Taiwan night market, Night market, Hanoi
Above: Night Market, Hanoi

Heidi briefly considered the cinema, but what was advertised had already appeared in cinemas months before in Switzerland.

Her hostel recommended a water puppet show.

Above: Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre performance

Puppetry has a long and varied history that spans the globe, but only in Vietnam do puppets slice off each other’s heads.

Sure, Indonesia has the graceful Javanese shadow puppets and Japan the bunraku theater with black-clad ninja puppeteers.

Above: Wayang (shadow puppets) performance, Bentara Budaya, Jakarta, Indonesia

Above: Bunraku (puppet) Osono, Tonda Puppet Group, Nagahama, Japan

Europe offers the rambunctious Punch and Judy, not to mention fantastic nose-growing marionettes like Pinocchio.

Above: Punch and Judy performance, Swanage, England

Pinocchio.jpg
Above: Carlo Collodi’s Pinocchio

And in America Jim Henson created Kermit the Frog, Miss Piggy and all the other members of the madcap Muppet gang.

Above: Jim Henson (1936 – 1990)

Kermit the Frog.jpg
Above: Kermit the Frog

MissPiggy.jpg
Above: Miss Piggy

Tv muppet show opening.jpg

But amphibious Vietnamese water puppets beat all these diverse strands of puppetry.

Mostly unknown outside of Northern Vietnam until the 1960s, the ancient art of water puppetry is one of the country’s more curious highlights.

Rice farmers working in the Red River Delta conceived this unusual art form over 1,000 years ago, likely when farmers adapted conventional puppetry onto water after a large flood.

Puppeteers carve their puppets from the ubiquitous fig tree and waterproof them with resin from the lacquer tree.

Puppets range in height from 12 to 40 inches (30 to 100 centimeters) and in weight from two to ten pounds (one to five kilograms).

During performances, puppeteers control their puppets through a pole-and-string apparatus concealed by the pond water.

This apparatus extends behind the stage curtain to the hidden puppeteers who stand in waist-deep water.

In this way, Vietnamese water puppetry differs from marionettes (control from above) or finger puppets (control from below).

Over time, as with many other kinds of artisans and craftsmen in Vietnam, puppet-makers and puppeteers banded together into guilds.

These tended to be named after the members’ home community, such as the Rach and Tay Ngoai Guilds.

To become a member of such an organization, one must “be decently dressed” which rules out the average western tourist.

In addition, one must place rice wine, betel rolls and areca nuts on the altar of the guild’s founder.

If accepted to the guild, a new member must drink a vermilion concoction that symbolizes human blood and then take an oath to keep the secrets of the guild.

Traditionally, it meant that failure to do so “is at the cost of the life of the father and that of three successive offspring.”

Above: Water puppeteers Phan Tranh Liem and his wife in waders, Hanoi, 2017

Although water puppetry is now performed across Vietnam and even tours the world, the most revered performance house is Thang Long Municipal theatre, located in the heart of Hanoi.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre travel guidebook –must visit attractions in  Hanoi – Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre nearby recommendation – Trip.com

At performances here, puppeteers stand waist deep in the water behind a screen, and operate the puppets on large rods to give the impression that the figures are moving across the water.

Performances involve between seven and eleven puppeteers who usually train for at least three years.

In the past, skills were passed from father to son, as villagers feared that daughters would pass on the secrets of water puppetry when marrying outside of the village. 

The performances are accompanied by traditional Vietnamese folk music played on drums, cymbals, wooden bells, horns, bamboo flutes, and a single stringed guitar.

The music is an integral part of the show, with the instrumentalists often shouting words of encouragement to the puppets.  

The shows draw from both human and animal puppets to depict traditional Vietnamese folk tales and legends, such as the Legend of the Restored Sword of King Le (the story of Hoan Kiem Lake and the giant tortoise), a boy riding a buffalo whilst playing a flute, and fire breathing dragons dancing on the water, complete with fireworks.

 

If used on a daily basis, the average lifespan of a water puppet is four months, meaning that some villages in Northern Vietnam are able to maintain their income and livelihoods on manufacturing water puppets.

The world-famous Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre in Hanoi has its roots in an art form that dates back to the 11th century.

Using large rods to support the puppets it appeared as if they were moving across the water with the puppeteers hidden behind a screen.

Characters can be heroic, legendary or mythic, but most are ordinary peasant characters living in an age-old village protected by clusters of giant bamboo.

Plot lines tend to be action-oriented as it is beyond the ability of the puppets to convey emotional conflicts.

A common plot device involves decapitation.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre | Hanoi | DK Eyewitness Travel

For example, in a scene titled “Felling Banana Trees“, a luckless character named Lieu Thang loses his head–literally.

And in a vignette from the classical drama Son Hau, Khuong Linh Ta’s head is severed and drifts away on the lake water.

However, the resilient character chases after his own head, picks it up and carries it offstage.

Such climactic moments often feature quantities of fireworks, including the fearsome phao rit, which explodes while diving underwater like a foraging duck.

Along with the pyrotechnics comes a cacophony of drums, gongs, cymbals and bells, plus assorted enthusiastic noises from the audience.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Hanoi with tickets selling out well in advance so it’s worth booking yours as soon as you arrive in town.

It is also advisable to pay more to get closer to the action as the theatre seats a few hundred people and the puppets are not that big.

The theatre is modern and usually shows 17 short sketches within a one-hour performance.

Aside from the general admission fee of VND 100,000 (£3.10 / CHF 4.00 / C$ 5.25 / TL 37.30), there’s an additional camera or video fee if you wish to photograph or film the show.

Scenes in water puppetry are very short, usually lasting between one and seven minutes.

Each recreates a certain activity or aspect of life in a traditional way that is very relevant to the Vietnamese.

Human gestures and the actions of animals are readily adapted to water puppetry.

The opening stage is a pond of water framed by a golden pagoda.

There is a platform to the right for the musicians.

Water Puppet Theatre - Guide Vietnam

A Typical Program for the Thang Long Puppet Troupe

1. Raising of the Festival Flags to signal the beginning of the show.

2. Chu Teu or the narrator is introduced – he is the master of ceremonies. He is young, underdressed, naïve, irreverent and has a sharp wit and banters with the musicians and the audience.

3. Dance of the Dragons: Four dragons dance on the surface of the water greeting the audiences. Legend has it that the Viet people were descended from the union of a dragon and a fairy. They were powerful, wise and benevolent.

4. Bamboo Flute Player on a Buffalo – a popular folk song asks, “Who said that tending buffaloes is a hard life? Let me tell you about the rice fields, the villages enclosed in emerald green bamboo, the sound of a flute floating above the back of the buffalo”. This evokes many shared memories.

5. Farming – The puppets are busy depicting the various activities crucial to agricultural life such as tilling the soil, planting rice and irrigating the fields by bucket. Eighty percent of Vietnamese live in rural areas.

6. Catching Frogs to supplement their diet and to sell in city markets; they are considered a succulent dish.

7. Rearing Ducks and Catching Foxes – in the major deltas of the country rice fields and ponds provide a natural habitat for ducks, but their tenders must be ever vigilant of the sneaking foxes.

8. Fishing – This is an important part of the Vietnamese diet and plentiful because of the long coastline, rivers, ponds and lakes. Both children and adults catch fish with all manner of baskets, nets and rods.

9. The Scholar’s Triumphant Return: Exams were held every three years in the capital to select mandarins. Graduates were appointed to all levels of bureaucracy. The graduates then made a triumphant return to their respective native villages with fine clothing, honor guards, trumpets, flags, carriages and offerings.

10. Lion Dance: On the water, the puppets recreate the joyful lion dance which men perform throughout the country for the Summer Festival

11. Phoenix Dance: The courtship of a male and female phoenix is a depiction of the ritual in which the soulmates meet. They symbolize noble love and fidelity.

12. Horse Racing: Two steeds gallop along in a race while two neatly dressed young horsemen watch them attentively from the side. Each of the lads jumps on a horse and spurs it on to greater speed. The two even compete with each other in their skill at jumping on and off horseback.

13. King Le Loa and the Turtle or the Legend of the Restored Sword Lake: Le Loa led a ten-year uprising (1418-1427) to regain independence from China. Le Loi was greatly helped by a magic sword given to him by a turtle. After he became king in 1428, one day when boating on a lake in the capital, a giant turtle surfaced and asked for the sword back and the king then named the lake Hoan Kim (Restored Sword). “The lengthy sword has helped me before, it defeated tens of thousands of invaders. Now in peace, the magic sword is returned to its owner, and this lake shall be remembered as Hoan Kiem.”

14. Children playing in water: Water is life sustaining in Vietnam as well as a great place to play.

15. Boat Racing – “Oye! Oye! Oye! The boat races begin and the competition is mighty.

16. Unicorns Play with a Ball: Two unicorns toss a ball back and forth, bringing to mind the rhythmic strengthening exercises of the martial arts.

17. Fairy Dance – King Lac Long Quan married Au Co in 2800 BC and they had 100 sons. After a time he told her “I came from the dragon and your ancestors were the fairies, it would not be possible for us to last forever together. Why don’t you take 50 of our sons up to the mountains while I take the other 50 down to the sea? Lac Long Quan established the eldest son as the king of the new realm and the new King named himself Hung Vuong, and began the first Vietnamese dynasty.

18. Dance of Four Magical Animals: The guardians of Vietnamese temples who have the most magical powers (the dragon, the unicorn, the turtle and the phoenix) perform a closing dance.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre | Beautiful vietnam, Vietnam, Hanoi

Chú Teu is a recurrent and the most notable character in water puppetry. 

Chú means “uncle“, “man“, “boy” or “Mr.” in Vietnamese.

Tễu means “laugh” in ancient Vietnamese.

He is a jester who provides witty comments on political and social realities, especially officials’ corruption. 

His appearance is of a smiling boy who often wears nothing but a simple loincloth, sometimes accompanied by a simple open vest.

Vietnamese Theater: The Water Puppet Show in Hanoi - Vietguides

Shows at this modern theatre are performed in a pool of water as the stage for the puppets.

The puppets are controlled by no more than eight puppeteers hiding behind a bamboo screen.

The puppets are made of wood and usually stand sixteen inches high, but can be as tall as three feet.

The puppet always has two parts: the body which is seen above the water, and the base which is under the water.

The head and the arms are usually movable and are sometimes attached with cloth.

The strings or wires used to connect the different parts of the puppets body can be made out of many things – even twisted hair covered with a layer of wax.

The puppets may take on a lacquered look after being painted many times with a vegetable-based paint.

There are three ways of operating the puppets.

Some puppets are attached to a long bamboo pole and dipped in and out of the water by a person behind a rattan curtain.

The larger puppets are often attached to a round wooden disc which can serve as a floating attachment to the poles.

Some puppets use a combination of both and may have a rudder to help guide them.

Water Puppet Theatre in Hanoi - Hanoi Attractions

Learning to manipulate the puppets is usually a tradition that is passed on as a family secret.

It takes a great deal of skill and because the puppeteers hands are underwater it is easy for them to hide their methods.

Up to three poles are used with the puppets attached to the middle pole and the other rods supporting the puppet’s.

The legs don’t move.

Behind the stage, there is usually a central place to rest the puppets not in motion, and some puppeteers operate more than one figure at a time.

The technique has not changed much since water puppets were first created, although natural ponds have been replaced by nine-feet-long portable water basins.

The stage is actually rectangular and is broken up into three areas.

The puppets are kept on the floor above the two side rooms and the musicians play from one side.

The fascinating part is that the central room is below the water line, and the puppeteers stand in the waist-deep water.

A rattan curtain hides them, but they can see the stage and the audience through the bamboo slats

Überspringen Sie die Warteschlange: Thang Long Water Puppet Tickets zur  Verfügung gestellt von Asia Travel Legend | Hanoi, Vietnam - Tripadvisor

Water has always played a central role in Vietnamese culture.

And the word for water, nuoc, also means country or nation.

The puppets advance and retreat in the water with the wave sound always being an important factor.

The water must be a little muddy just like the ponds were so that the poles and mechanics can be obscured.

Skip the Line: Thang Long Water Puppet Show Tickets 2021 - Hanoi

People who have seen water puppet performances often remember the music that goes along with the show.

The drum beats more and more quickly as the show is about to begin.

There is a drummer and gong and chants and songs to help animate the story, and the percussion instruments accompany the gestures to keep up the rhythm of a performance.

The music also often introduces the theme of the play.

And, of course, no performance is complete without firecrackers which add to the excitement.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theater - Shore Excursions Asia

In the past, the puppeteers were peasants and belonged to a guild.

As time went on, permission to enter the guild was more and more selective and the head of the guild, or ong trum, was responsible for many things including finances because the performances were free.

Today the puppeteers in the Central Troupe are professionals who receive a monthly salary from the Direction of the Central Troupe of Vietnamese Puppets, a government agency, and they receive special grants when they perform outside the country.

Flag of Vietnam
Above: Flag of Vietnam

Today’s performances usually include a number of short sketches rather than one long story, taking the audience on a journey of ancient village life, agricultural harvests and dances of mythical creatures.

The live music plays an integral part of the show with singers often shouting words of encouragement to the puppets.

A traditional Vietnamese orchestra provides background music accompaniment.

The instrumentation includes vocals, drums, wooden bells, cymbals, horns, Dàn bàu (monochord), gongs and bamboo flutes.

The bamboo flute’s clear, simple notes may accompany royalty while the drums and cymbals may loudly announce a fire-breathing dragon’s entrance.

Singers of chèo (a form of opera originating in north Vietnam) sing songs which tell the story being acted out by the puppets.

The musicians and the puppets interact during performance; the musicians may yell a word of warning to a puppet in danger or a word of encouragement to a puppet in need.

The puppets enter from either side of the stage, or emerge from the murky depths of the water.

Spotlights and colorful flags adorn the stage and create a festive atmosphere.

This tradition is unique to North Vietnam but has recently found fame on stages all over the world, so it’s a rare treat to see the puppets perform in their original location at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre.

Most of the shows recount Vietnamese folk tales and legends with topics including the celebration of the rice harvest depicted in a humorous fashion.

Hanoi Water Puppet Theatre - Hanoi Travel Guide

Located within the Hải Phòng province in the Red River Delta area of northern Vietnam, Bảo Hà is a farming village with a celebrated tradition of carving that has recently emerged as a destination appealing to “cultural tourism.”

It is thought by some to be the birthplace of puppetry in the region, owing part of this reputation to a venerated statue of unknown antiquity (most informants suggested it to be anywhere between three and seven centuries old) housed in one of the communal temples.

This statue is capable of movement via a series of concealed mechanisms, which enable the statue to rise from a seated positionto standing when a particular door is opened, and is connected to certain ritual ceremonies
conducted in the temple or in front of the nearby communal pond.

The people of Bảo Hà derive their primary income from farming, but several among them have looked to other forms of work as alternative or supplementary occupations.

Water Puppetry in Vietnam: An Ancient Tradition in a Modern World -  Association for Asian Studies

Some have turned to commercial endeavors, oftentimes opening shops in a section of their homes, while others have found professional work as teachers or local government officials, and still others have recently started to find some success as artists and performers.

This artistic success is mostly found in the carving of wood sculpture and in the performance of Vietnamese water puppetry.

Water Puppetry in Vietnam: An Ancient Tradition in a Modern World

In the past, these art forms most likely served more ritualistic or leisurely roles in the village.

Today, with the interest from international tourists presenting emerging opportunities, the people of Bảo Hà have also been able to use these arts as both a means to sell locally crafted goods and performances and as a way to attract investments from the government and companies in the tourism industry.


Vietnam's other puppetry art

In 2002, the Vietnamese government granted Bảo Hà 800 million dong (VND), or roughly $40,000, to develop the basic infrastructure necessary to accommodate tourists.

This investment quickly followed the organization of the village water puppetry troupe in 1999 and can be considered along the lines of a much larger series of government spending on the “preservation” of intangible culture heritage.

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Earlier, in 1983, the Vietnamese government began to call for villagers to actively preserve and develop water puppetry.

These efforts often relied upon an image of an “authentic”, “pristine”, or “premodern” culture in order to appeal to cultural tourists from the “modern” world seeking “authenticity.”


Emblem of Vietnam
Above: Emblem of Vietnam

Bảo Hà became a tourist destination for both domestic and foreign visitors in 2000.

International tourists mostly come from the countries of the United States, France, Great Britain, Russia, China, Japan, and Korea.

The foreigners usually do not interact with villagers because they cannot communicate.

However, as one informant noted, the villagers and tourists “still love each other.”

Community members assert that they are very happy with the influx of tourism and they welcome tourists when they come to the festivals or water puppetry shows.

Many think it is a good opportunity for foreigners to learn about festivals in Vietnam as well as cultural activities of community members.

Tripadvisor | Hanoi Wasserpuppenshow und Abendessen zur Verfügung gestellt  von Vacation Indochina Travel | Vietnam

The most obvious effect of tourism on life in Bảo Hà is an increase in the standard of living.

Tourists spend money to buy statues, see water puppetry shows, and offer money at the temple.

One resident claimed that “this village could not have developed like it has without water puppetry.”

When tourists purchase carving statues, they ensure that the craftsmen remain employed, so the local people directly benefit from the service they provide for the tourists.

Vietnam traditional Water Puppets Vietnamese water puppetry has a long  history. An inscription on a stone stele in… | Vietnam tours, Vietnam  travel, Vietnam hotels


Water puppetry shows are performed numerous times throughout the year, during certain festivals or as tourist companies schedule them.

The troupe routinely performs for local villagers during New Year festivals and anniversary celebrations of the local temple and communal house.

During these festivals, performances are enacted that may have upwards of twenty individual stories in them.

However, performances arranged for tourists (both domestic and international) are more compact and have fewer distinct episodes.

While the Bảo Hà troupe often performs locally in outdoor ponds, temples in nearby villages, or special stages created for tourist performances, they also tour other cities throughout Vietnam and perform in venues such as the Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi.

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As Vietnam raises its global profile as an economic force, the government is also promoting the country, not coincidentally, as an international tourist destination.

Vietnam has developed tourism in recent years due to the new foreign policy, which is to implement consistently the foreign policy line of independence, self-reliance, peace, cooperation and development, the foreign policy of openness and diversification and multi-lateralization of international relations.

Vietnam proactively and actively engages in international economic integration while expanding international cooperation in other fields.

Vietnam whispers that it is a friend and reliable partner of all countries in the international community, actively taking part in international and regional cooperation processes.


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Above: Vietnam

In the 1980s, the country started to open its doors to the international tourism industry and sought to capitalize on the vast potential revenue that could be gathered from foreign travellers.

Government funds were used to, and still continue to, facilitate construction projects such as paving roads, building community pavilions, improving existing buildings, and providing villages with more elaborate stages for performances.

The objective was to make villages designated as “cultural” or “tourist destinations” (sites recognized by the Vietnamese government as having some form of “traditional culture” that needed to be preserved and could be utilized as features of “culture tours” in the developing tourism industry) more appealing to international tourists from locations such as North America or Europe.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre – Hanoi, Vietnam - Atlas Obscura

In the early 2000s, water puppetry was becoming a popular tourist attraction for foreigners throughout the country.

This coincided with the government declaring in 2002 that water puppetry was a precious Vietnamese art that needed to be cultivated once more.

Halong Water Puppet Show - BestPrice Travel

While professional water puppetry troupes had been organized prior to this, it was not until this period, after the era of reform and change in the late 1980s, that the art started to be used to capitalize on a growing tourist market.

Evidence for the growth in popularity of Vietnamese water puppetry on a global scale can be seen in other writings besides those of contemporary academics.

International tourists often describe their experiences in foreign countries on popular travel blogs.

Certain websites devoted to travel experiences in Asia contain fairly detailed descriptions of travellers’ observations and personal research on water puppetry.

In reading these accounts, it is clear that the popularity of this art form is spreading among international travellers and
cultural tourists” alike.

International tours also contribute to water puppetry’s rise in global popularity.

văn học & nghệ thuật

Starting in 1984 in France, village troupes from northern Vietnam (gradually becoming more “professionalized” over the years) began touring foreign countries in order to spread awareness of this performance art.

Since then, professional troupes have begun attending festivals and going on tours in countries all across the world.


Vietnam France High Resolution Sign Flags Concept Stock Photo, Picture And  Royalty Free Image. Image 29104804.

Local tourist companies promote “rural tourism”, a type of niche-market of cultural tourism that appeals to both domestic and international travellers.

A popular option includes day trips to rural areas such as Bảo Hà.

Clients seek the tranquility of nature, a view of “authentic” agrarian life, and the ancient cultural traditions of local villages, including water puppetry performances.

In an era of increased migration to cities, domestic travellers from urban centers are drawn by similar desires, as well as their own childhood memories of life in the countryside or searches for cultural, familial, or spiritual roots.

Privater Abendspaziergang - Cyclo & Water Puppet Show in der Altstadt von  Hanoi 2021 (Tiefpreisgarantie)

In the village of Bảo Hà, many informants, including the co-founders of the troupe, have stated that the attraction of international tourism is the driving force behind the formation of water puppetry troupes and regular performances of the art.

Informants have claimed that without the income generated by performing for tourists, villagers would never have enough money to sustain the tradition.

Local residents have recognized tourism as a viable way to increase their income and thus have more time and resources to devote to the production of water puppetry.

Traditional Water Puppet Show – Longlink Vietnam

In recent years, the changes affecting Vietnamese water puppetry have been the cause of some concern for both academics and performers alike.

In the past, people performed water puppetry for a variety of reasons serving both spiritual and secular purposes, such as celebrating harvests or honoring various mythological figures.

In the present day, however, various troupe leaders, puppeteers, and other authoritative figures have claimed that
contemporary performances have lost some of the connections to ancient ritualized performances associated with rural Vietnamese spirituality, such as widespread performances once put on during harvest festivals.

Troupes in the present day perform more and more for the economic benefits brought on by performances for increasingly foreign audiences.

Vietnamese water puppetry is a unique variation on the ancient Asian puppet  tradition that dates back as far as the 11th century | Vietnam art, Puppetry,  Puppets

As researcher Nguyen Thi Thuy Linh notes:


The changes were brought about through the government’s policy on “rehabilitation” and “extension” of this unique art.

International touring of various troupes helped water puppetry gain worldwide fame and provided a realistic picture of rural life in Vietnam to new audiences.

However, these changes also caused some “spiritual degradation” to water puppetry.

Linh goes on to describe the “professionalization” of the water puppeteers guild throughout much of northern Vietnam and the targeting of international tourists as an important demographic in audiences as other important factors leading to this sentiment.

Nguyen Thi Thuy Linh - Asia Pro Bono Conference & Access to Justice Exchange

Above: Researcher Nguyen Thi Thuy Linh


Academics studying water puppetry in Vietnam often run into discussions of “authentic” versus “inauthentic” culture, which seem to be related to the rapid changes brought on by engagement with the global community.

Indeed, this discussion is in no way limited to Vietnam, or even Southeast Asia for that matter.

Many scholars have strived to incorporate the concept of “authenticity” into ethnographic works concerning tourism.

In fact, authenticity plays a major role in a significant amount of the earlier anthropological and sociological analyses of tourism.

Vietnamese Water Puppets - Traditional Puppet Fun


In Culture on Tour: Ethnographies of Travel, Edward Bruner recognizes performance as “constitutive of emergent culture.”

From this general orientation, one is able to examine a specific situation in the anthropological discussion of tourism:

Tourist performances represent new culture in that they have been modified to fit the touristic master narrative, have been shortened to fit the tour schedule, have been edited so as to be comprehensible to a visiting audience, and are performed regularly at set times and usually on stage.


Bruner further deconstructs notions of authenticity and inauthenticity as being social constructions of the present, and these terms should not be used in an analysis of culture unless the ideas are explicitly valued and engaged with by the people being discussed.


Culture on Tour: Ethnographies of Travel: Amazon.de: Bruner, Edward M.:  Fremdsprachige Bücher

Such a dichotomy reduces a cultural production labeled as inauthentic as being inherently inferior to its “authentic” counterpart.

This conceptualization enables an analysis of tourist productions, in this case Vietnamese water puppetry, as complex cultural forms that cannot be reduced to an authentic versus inauthentic binary.

Water Puppetry in Vietnam

In Bảo Hà, performers made several distinctions between performances put on for tourists and those that would be used in ritual contexts, such as New Year festivals.

While some local artists assert that water puppetry performance has not undergone extensive change
over time, most admit that the shows performed for tourist audiences tend to be more edited than those put on for local festivals.

Featured most prominently in their responses was the recognition that stories in tourist productions were essentially shorter (usually lasting 5 to 7 minutes), denser versions of the ritual productions (which were said to last up
to 30 to 40 minutes), often taking what is thought to be the most appealing aspects of the performance in the eyes of foreign tourists and condensing it in order to accommodate the brief period of time the tourists spend in the village.

Water puppetry - Wikiwand

Another frequently mentioned element of distinction is that new stories, songs, and characters are created specifically for tourist productions, whereas ritual productions typically adhered to a fairly consistent cast, score, and scene repertoire.


For the culture tourist, traveling to rural locations such as Bảo Hà in order to witness particular aspects of traditional culture can lead to some unexpected insights.

Tourists have the chance to see changes that have taken place in Vietnamese society through the distinction between the portrayal of traditional agrarian life and the very brief glimpse of contemporary rural Vietnam.

Water puppetry serves as a static representation of ancient art, culture, and lifestyles, but it is juxtaposed with their visit to a traditional rural village in the dynamic process of seeking to become modern.

This portrayal of “traditional-within-modern”, or the “ethnographic surreal” as Bruner puts it, while at the fringe of the touristic gaze and tending to be glossed over by commercial institutions such as travel agencies, is
central to the development, production, and marketing of tourist performances in villages like Bảo Hà.

The local producers of water puppetry performances in Bảo Hà — the artists, musicians, and troupe coordinators—reaffirmed this notion of glocalization.

These individuals often claim that the influx of international tourists to their villages and the performance of water puppetry shows for foreign audiences have little to no impact on the culture of the villagers themselves.

Halong Water Puppet Show - BestPrice Travel

As one puppeteer stated:


Water puppetry reflects the lives and culture of people only in northern Vietnam.

It doesn’t matter where these performances are put on, they are still representative of traditional northern Vietnam.

Vietnam's other puppetry art | New Release Movie Reviews and the Best  Restaurant Reviews & Bars

This resistance to change from outside forces in the discussion of glocalization is evidence of the producers’ ability to express a localized interpretation of identity within the larger frame of the emergence of culture in the international tourism industry.

Glocalization readily fits into a constructivist perspective, enabling us to examine the creation and recreation of culture in a general sense while simultaneously acknowledging the agency of the local producers themselves.

Ironically, globalization appears to engender a form of localism.

Increasing global integration does not simply result in the elimination of cultural diversity but rather provides the context for the production of new cultural forms that are marked by local specificity.


The “local” is usually considered to be an authentic source of cultural identity as long as it remains unsullied by contact with the “global”.

But the local itself is often produced by means of the “indigenization” of global resources and inputs.

As Barber points out, the global culture is what gives the local culture its medium, its audience, and its aspirations.

However, the transition from global versus local to global and local is contingent upon having enough time to absorb and acclimate to outside forces.

In fact, Jayasinhji Jhala contends that an authentic indigenous aesthetic is not necessarily located at the point of first contact, but after native groups have already domesticated and internalized new technologies and made them their own.

To a large and unexpected extent, localism challenges the imperative of globalization by compensating for the standardization and perceived loss of identity that is said to accompany it.

Glocalization' In The U.S. Heartland: How Global Messaging Can Have A  Regional Impact

Fancy terminology, academic language, making a few crucial observations.

What once was a celebration of life has become a matter of survival.

There is something grim in the realization that those who choose to be artists, who choose to be entertainers, must

create or perish.

There is something so sad in the awareness that these gifted and talented people are told what they must perform, how often they must perform, and restrictions on what they can perform.

Water puppetry tells tales in a manner that attention-deficient tourists can assimilate.

And the powers that control the puppeteers know that income from tourists is less and less assured in this digital age.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, Hanoi - Book Tickets & Tours

Vietnam is not 17th century France.

There is no Molière to transform the show into a political protest or a social critique.

Vietnam is not Britain with its Spitting Image or America with its Muppet Show or even Italy’s Pinocchio.

Morality lessons may be passed in witnessing the traditions of the past, but there is no sense of an apology for the present or any incentive to shape the future, in the machinations of the water puppeteers and the movements of their wooden models.

Spitting Image 2020.jpg

According to Freedom House, Vietnam is a one-party state, dominated for decades by the ruling Communist Party of Vietnam (CPV).

Freedom House.svg

Although some independent candidates are technically allowed to run in legislative elections, most are banned in practice.

Freedom of expression, religious freedom, and civil society activism are tightly restricted.

The authorities have increasingly cracked down on citizens’ use of social media and the Internet.

Arrests, criminal convictions, and physical assaults against journalists, bloggers, and human rights activists continued during the year Heidi visited.

Amnesty International reported that the number of prisoners of conscience in Vietnam was up by roughly 33% over 2018.

Amnesty International logo.svg

A new, tough cybersecurity law that could seriously restrict online speech came into effect in January.

The measure forces companies like Facebook and Google to store information about Vietnamese users in Vietnam, potentially making it accessible to state authorities.

It also allows the government to block access to content deemed dangerous to national security.

Facebook Logo (2019).svg

Each letter of "Google" is colored (from left to right) in blue, red, yellow, blue, green, and red.

Vietnam continued to make some strides in fighting corruption, which has been endemic in the past.

The government reported that in 2019 that it had disciplined over 53,000 officials and Communist Party of Vietnam (CPV) members for graft, and that multiple senior officials, including two members of the Central Committee, had faced discipline including jail time.

However, enforcement of anti-corruption measures remains politicized and selective.

Emblem of Vietnam Communist Party.png
Above: Emblem of the Communist Party of Vietnam

President and Party General Secretary Nguyễn Phú Trọng enjoyed more centralized, personalized power than any recent Vietnamese leader.

Vietnam specialists have expressed concern that Trọng could create a personalized and sustained autocracy, like China’s Xi Jinping, though he has not consolidated power on anywhere near that level.

Mr. Nguyen Phu Trong.jpg
Above: Nguyen Phu Trong

The President is elected by the National Assembly for a five-year term, and is responsible for appointing the Prime Minister, who is confirmed by the Legislature.

However, all selections for top executive posts are predetermined in practice by the CPV’s Politburo and Central Committee.

Coat of arms or logo
Above: Flag of the Communist Party of Vietnam

In 2016, nominees for President and Prime Minister were chosen at the CPV’s 12th Party Congress, which also featured the re-election of Nguyễn Phú Trọng as the Party’s General Secretary.

In April of that year, the National Assembly formally confirmed Trần Đại Quang as President and Nguyễn Xuân Phúc as Prime Minister.

President Trần Đại Quang died in September 2018, and the National Assembly confirmed Nguyễn Phú Trọng as his replacement in October.

Trọng retained the post of Party General Secretary.

Mr. Tran Dai Quang.jpg
Above: Tran Dai Quang (1956 – 2018)

Elections to the National Assembly are tightly controlled by the CPV, which took 473 of the body’s 500 seats in the 2016 balloting.

Candidates who were technically independent but vetted by the CPV took 21 seats.

More than 100 independent candidates, including many young civil society activists, were barred from running in the elections.

Coat of arms or logo
Above: Logo of the National Assembly of Vietnam

The electoral laws and framework ensure that the CPV, the only legally recognized party, dominates every election.

The Party controls all electoral bodies and vets all candidates, resulting in the disqualification of those who are genuinely independent.

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Above: The National Assembly of Vietnam – (red) Communist Party / (green) Independent

The CPV enjoys a monopoly on political power, and no other parties are allowed to operate legally.

Members of illegal opposition parties are subject to arrest and imprisonment.

The structure of the one-party system precludes any democratic transfer of power.

The Vietnam Fatherland Front (VFF), responsible for vetting all candidates for the National Assembly, is ostensibly an alliance of organizations representing the people, but in practice it acts as an arm of the CPV.

The overarching dominance of the CPV effectively excludes the public from any genuine and autonomous political participation.

Vietnamese Fatherland Front logo.svg
Above: Logo of the Vietnamese Fatherland Front (VFF)

Although ethnic minorities are nominally represented within the CPV, they are rarely allowed to rise to senior positions, and the CPV leadership’s dominance prevents effective advocacy on issues affecting minority populations.

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There are 54 ethnic groups in Vietnam recognized by the Vietnamese government.[1] 

Each ethnicity has their own language, traditions, and subculture.

The largest ethnic groups are: 

  • Kinh 85.32% 

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Above: Woman wearing white long-sleeved dress and brown sungat holding pink petaled flower

  • Tay 1.92% 

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Above: Tay women

  • Tai 1.89%

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  • Muòng 1.51%

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Above: Muong woman in Tonkin

  • Hmong 1.45%

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Above: Flower Hmong women in traditional dress at the market in Bac Ha, Vietnam

  • Khmer 1.37%

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Above: Cambodia Royal Ballet

  • Nùng 1.13%

Above: Nung handbasket

  • Dao 0.93%

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Above: Dao woman, Tiantouzhai, Longji Terraces, China

  • Hoa 0.78%

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Above: Inside of Đình Minh Hương Gia Thanh (Ming Ancestry Assembly Hall), a temple established in 1789 by Hoa people, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

  • Others 3.7% (2019 census)

Back to the Future: Vietnam Now and Then | Inter Press Service

The Vietnamese term for minority ethnic groups are người thiểu số and dân tộc ít người (minority people).

While Vietnam has enacted policies and strategies aimed at boosting women’s political participation, in practice the interests of women are poorly represented in government.

Ao dai APEC.jpg

The CPV leadership, which is not freely elected or accountable to the public, determines government policy and the legislative agenda.

CPV and government leaders have acknowledged growing public discontent with corruption, and there has been an increase in corruption-related arrests in recent years.

The government reported that in 2019 that it had disciplined over 53,000 officials and other party members for graft.

Multiple senior officials, including two members of the Central Committee, have faced discipline including jail time.

Despite the crackdown, enforcement of anticorruption laws is generally selective and often linked to political rivalries.

Many top officials who have been detained or jailed belonged to a different political faction than Trọng.

Photograph of the National Assembly of Vietnam in Hanoi
Above: National Assembly of Vietnam

The CPV leadership operates with considerable opacity.

The National Assembly passed an access to information law in 2016, but its provisions are relatively weak.

Information can also be withheld if it is deemed to threaten state interests or the well-being of the nation.

Although the Constitution recognizes freedom of the press, journalists and bloggers are constrained by numerous repressive laws and decrees.

Those who dare to report or comment independently on controversial issues risk intimidation and physical attack.

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Above: Logo for Vietnam Television

The Criminal Code prohibits speech that is critical of the government, while a 2006 decree prescribes fines for any publication that denies revolutionary achievements, spreads “harmful” information, or exhibits “reactionary ideology”.

Decree 72, issued in 2013, gave the state sweeping new powers to restrict speech on blogs and social media.

The state controls all print and broadcast media.

In June 2018, the National Assembly approved a restrictive cyber security law that will, among other provisions, force companies like Facebook and Google to store information about Vietnamese users in Vietnam, making it potentially more accessible to state authorities.

The law, which also allows the government to block access to a broad range of content that could be defined as dangerous to national security, came into force in January 2019.

New arrests, beatings, criminal convictions, and cases of mistreatment in custody involving journalists and bloggers continued to be reported throughout 2019, with dozens arrested during the year.

At a human rights dialogue with Vietnam in May, US diplomats expressed concern over the rising number of prosecutions of writers and activists in Vietnam.

Two Chairs With Flags Of Us And Vietnam Isolated On White Stock Photo -  Download Image Now - iStock

In July, Trương Duy Nhất, blogger for Radio Free Asia, was charged with “abusing his position”.

He had been apparently abducted from Thailand earlier in the year by Vietnamese agents.

Profile: Truong Duy Nhat - The 88 Project
Above: Truong Duy Nhat

Blogger and activist Lê Anh Hùng was involuntarily committed to a mental hospital, and, according to reports, forced to take a range of medicines.

Profile: Le Anh Hung - The 88 Project
Above: Le Anh Hung

In August, state media produced a documentary that portrayed writers and activists as spreading “fake news” designed to overthrow the ruling party.

In November, the security forces arrested six bloggers and writers in one day.

In December, a Vietnamese activist serving a 13-year jail sentence in connection with Facebook postings died in jail, and was quickly buried.

Medien und ihr Umgang mit Fake News | EY - Deutschland

Religious freedoms remain restricted.

All religious groups and most individual clergy members are required to join a party-controlled supervisory body and obtain permission for most activities.

A 2016 Law on Belief and Religion, which has been gradually rolled out, reinforced registration requirements, will allow extensive state interference in religious groups’ internal affairs, and gives authorities broad discretion to penalize unsanctioned religious activity.

In its annual report for 2019, the US Commission on International Religious Freedom recommended that Vietnam be placed back on the US State Department’s list of countries that are the worst abusers of religious freedom in the world, since conditions have not measurably improved since the country was taken off the list 13 years previously.

Seal of the United States Commission on International Religious Freedom.svg

Academic freedom is limited.

University professors must refrain from criticizing government policies and adhere to party views when teaching or writing on political topics.

In March 2019, a prominent Vietnamese historian, Ông Trần Đức Anh Sơn, was kicked out of the Communist Party, a major punishment, for questioning Vietnam’s policies toward China.

Ông Trần Đức Anh Sơn bị khai trừ hay “trí thức là cứt” là có thật?
Above: Ong Tran Duc Anh Son

Although citizens enjoy more freedom in private discussions than in the past, authorities continue to attack and imprison those who openly criticize the state, including on social media.

The government engages in surveillance of private online activity.

Wandtattoo big brother is watching you | WebWandtattoo.com

Freedom of assembly is tightly restricted.

Organizations must apply for official permission to assemble, and security forces routinely use excessive force to disperse unauthorized demonstrations.

After nationwide anti-China protests in June 2018, during which dozens of participants were assaulted and arrested, the courts convicted well over a hundred people of disrupting public order, and many were sentenced to prison terms.

In June 2019, a court sentenced a man who had become known during the 2018 protests for bringing bread and water to demonstrators to eight years in jail for “disrupting public security”.

Flag of China
Above: Flag of China

A small but active community of nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) promotes environmental conservation, land rights, women’s development, and public health.

However, human rights organizations are generally banned, and those who engage in any advocacy that the authorities perceive as hostile risk imprisonment.

Criminal prosecutions and violence against activists persisted in 2019.

Among other incidents, in July 2019, seven activists were sentenced to jail for protesting a new toll road plan.

The same month, family members of activists who tried to visit a jail in Nghệ An Province were beaten by a mob of assailants.

Earlier, in June, a Vietnamese court sentenced an American activist to 12 years in jail for allegedly trying to overthrow the Vietnamese government, and also sentenced two Vietnamese activists who had been trying to recruit antigovernment protestors.

Above: Viêt Tân Party info booth at a pro-democracy, pro-human rights rally

The Vietnam General Conference of Labour (VGCL) is Vietnam’s only legal labour federation and is controlled by the CPV.

The right to strike is limited by tight legal restrictions.

In November 2019, the National Assembly voted to change the Labour Code.

These changes, demanded by Vietnam’s free trade deals, will theoretically allow workers to form independent unions and hold strikes.

Vietnam General Confederation of Labour (VGCL) – ILO SEA Fisheries Project
Above: Vietnam General Confederation of Labour logo

Vietnam’s judiciary is subservient to the CPV, which controls the courts at all levels.

This control is especially evident in politically sensitive criminal prosecutions, with judges sometimes displaying greater impartiality in civil cases.

Emblem of the People's Court of Vietnam.png
Above: Emblem of the People’s Court of Vietnam

Constitutional guarantees of due process are generally not upheld.

Defendants have a legal right to counsel, but lawyers are scarce, and many are reluctant to take on cases involving human rights or other sensitive topics.

Defense lawyers do not have the right to call witnesses, and often report insufficient time to meet with their clients.

In national security cases, police can detain suspects for up to 20 months without access to counsel.

Amendments to the penal code that took effect in 2018 included a provision under which defense lawyers can be held criminally liable for failing to report certain kinds of crimes committed by their own clients.

Emblem of Vietnam People's Public Security
Above: Emblem of the Vietnam People’s Public Security

There is little protection from the illegitimate use of force by state authorities, and police are known to abuse suspects and prisoners, sometimes resulting in death or serious injury.

Prison conditions are poor.

In May 2019, Amnesty International reported that Nguyễn Văn Hoá, a former Radio Free Asia blogger serving a seven-year jail sentence for reporting on protests over a toxic waste spill, had been tortured in prison.

The new penal code reduced the number of crimes that can draw the death penalty, though it can still be applied for crimes other than murder, including drug trafficking.

In June 2019, the Public Security Minister suggested the government was considering making drug use a crime again, rather than treating drug users via rehab.

In the past, detention centers for drug users were criticized by rights groups as brutal labor camps.

Radio Free Asia (logo).png
Above: Logo of Radio Free Asia

Ethnic minorities face discrimination in Vietnamese society, and some local officials restrict their access to schooling and jobs.

Minorities generally have little input on development projects that affect their livelihoods and communities.

Members of ethnic and religious minorities also sometimes face monitoring and harassment by authorities seeking to suppress dissent and suspected links to exile groups.

Men and women receive similar treatment in the legal system.

Women generally have equal access to education, and economic opportunities for women have grown, though they continue to face discrimination in wages and promotions.

The law does not prohibit discrimination based on sexual orientation or gender identity, and societal discrimination remains a problem.

Nevertheless, annual LGBT+ pride events were held across the country for an 8th year in 2019.

Above: Viet Pride 2016, Hanoi

Although freedom of movement is protected by law, residency rules limit access to services for those who migrate within the country without permission, and authorities have restricted the movement of political dissidents and ethnic minorities on other grounds.

Vietnamese citizens who are repatriated after attempting to seek asylum abroad can face harassment or imprisonment.

Vietnamese passport - Wikipedia

All land is owned by the state, which grants land-use rights and leases to farmers, developers, and others.

Land tenure is one of the most contentious issues in the country, and is the subject of regular protests.

The seizure of land for economic development projects is often accompanied by violence, accusations of corruption, and prosecutions of those who protest.

Land Rights in Vietnam - What Are They and How You Can Acquire Land

The government generally does not place explicit restrictions on personal social freedoms.

Men and women have equal rights pertaining to matters such as marriage and divorce under the law.

In 2015, Vietnam repealed a legal ban on same-sex marriage, but the government still does not grant such unions legal recognition.

Domestic violence against women remains common, and the law calls for the state to initiate criminal as opposed to civil procedures only when the victim is seriously injured.

Human trafficking remains a problem in Vietnam, although the government has made some efforts to boost anti-trafficking efforts.

Internationally brokered marriages sometimes lead to domestic servitude and forced prostitution.

Male and female migrant workers are vulnerable to forced labor abroad in a variety of industries.

Enforcement of legal safeguards against exploitative working conditions, child labor, and workplace hazards remains poor.

Human trafficking cases down but not out in Vietnam - VnExpress  International

But all of this is invisible to the tourist, for tourism is, by its very nature, a distraction from real life.

We love the motions of the puppets but think little about the lives of the puppeteers.

And average citizens maintain a semblance of peace and harmony in their communities, for this is all they seek, this is all they hope to accomplish.

Dreams beyond this destiny are dangerous, for dreams derive from a desire for change.

Change threatens the status quo and is fought back with force.

Tourists, like Heidi, are moved to pleasure and feel enlightened by the performance of the water puppets, and so she should, for there is much value and significance in viewing traditions that are not our own.

To see beneath what’s foreign and embrace the common humanity that binds us.

Heidi, like many wise Swiss, knows the value of money.

For her, like many young travellers, the disparity of economies makes Vietnam a real travel bargain.

Pins Switzerland-Vietnam | Friendship Pins Switzerland-XXX | Flags S |  Crossed Flag Pins Shop

(For me, like many foreign travellers, the disparity of economies makes Turkey a real travel bargain.)

Pins Canada-Turkey | Friendship Pins Canada-XXX | Flags C | Crossed Flag  Pins Shop

Tourism is an important element of economic activity in the nation, contributing 7.5% of the total GDP.

Vietnam hosted roughly 13 million tourists in 2017, an increase of 29.1% over the previous year, making it one of the fastest growing tourist destinations in the world.

The vast majority of the tourists in the country, some 9.7 million, came from Asia – namely China (4 million), South Korea (2.6 million), and Japan (798,119).

Asia (orthographic projection).svg
Above: Asia

Vietnam also attracts large numbers of visitors from Europe, with almost 1.9 million visitors in 2017.

Most European visitors came from Russia (574,164), followed by the UK (283,537), France (255,396), and Germany (199,872).

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Above: Europe

Other significant international arrivals by nationality include the United States (614,117) and Australia (370,438).

Flag of the United States
Above: Flag of the United States of America

A blue field with the Union Flag in the upper hoist quarter, a large white seven-pointed star in the lower hoist quarter, and constellation of five white stars in the fly – one small five-pointed star and four, larger, seven-pointed stars.
Above: Flag of Australia

The most visited destinations in Vietnam is the largest city, Ho Chi Minh City, with over 5.8 million international arrivals, followed by Hanoi with 4.6 million and Ha Long, including Hạ Long Bay with 4.4 million arrivals.

All three are ranked in the top 100 most visited cities in the world.

Above: Hanoi

Bãi Cháy 2005.jpg
Above: Ha Long

Vietnam is home to eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

UNESCO logo English.svg

In 2018, Travel and Leisure ranked Hôì An (391.00 miles / 629.26 km southeast of Hanoi) as one of the world’s top 15 best destinations to visit.

Travel + Leisure magazine cover.jpg

(Tourism in Turkey has increased almost every year in the 21st century, and is an important part of the economy.

The Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism currently promotes Turkish tourism under the project Turkey Home.

Turkey is one of the world’s top ten destination countries, with the highest percentage of foreign visitors arriving from Europe; specially Germany and Russia in recent years.

In 2019, Turkey ranked 6th in the world in terms of the number of international tourist arrivals, with 51.2 million foreign tourists visiting the country.

Turkey has 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites and 51 sites tentatively listed.)

Location of Turkey
Above: Turkey

Tourists don’t come to Vietnam to view the grim reality of the lives of the Vietnamese behind the scenes.

They come to Vietnam to forget the grim reality of their own lives back home in their own countries.

They watch the water puppet performance, not pondering the lives of the puppeteers, but instead deliberately not pondering their own lives.

They want to be entertained, enlightened and, maybe even, accidentally, educated.

They want to lose themselves in the spectacle and drown their sorrows in the murky waters of oblivion in which the puppets perform.

Water Puppet Theatre Hanoi

Switzerland ranks 96 / 100 in terms of Freedom House’s freedom scale and yet there seems to be a Jack Reacher analogy ever present in the lives of the Swiss.

Reacher is a drifter and a former Army military police officer. 

In the film Jack Reacher, Reacher (Tom Cruise) is confronted by defence attorney Helen Rodin:

It all makes total sense to me now – the way you live, the way you move around – you are just not cut out for the real world.

He responds:

Look out the window.

Tell me what you see.

Look at the people and tell me which ones are free, free from debt, anxiety, stress, fear, failure, indignity, betrayal.

How many wish they were born knowing what they know now?

Ask yourself:

How many would do things the same way all over again?

And how many would live their lives like me?

Quotes and Movies: Imagine you spent your whole life in other parts of the  world being told everyday that you're defending freedom

Switzerland was added to the blacklist of the International Labour Organization (ILO) of countries not offering enough protection to unionized employees.

While it is improper to dismiss an employee because of union membership or activity, the penalty for such behavior is seen as too low.

International Labour Organization Logo.svg

The Federal Intelligence Service (FIS) was called out for leading investigations against several left-wing political activists and members of left-wing parties in the cities of Basel and Bern, despite not having legal grounds to do so.

Umfeld der Schweiz ist geprägt durch Grossmachtrivalitäten -  SicherheitsForum

A law to improve whistleblower protection was rejected in June 2019 by the National Council (lower House of Parliament), but is currently under review in the Council of States (upper House of Parliament).

Coat of arms or logo
Above: Logo of the Swiss National Council

The reform came as a response to criticism by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), which called out Switzerland for failing to fully implement the recommendations of the OECD Anti-Bribery Convention.

OECD logo new.svg

Switzerland was removed from the European Union’s (EU) “gray list” of countries not cooperating in the fight against tax evasion.

Circle of 12 gold stars on a blue background
Above: Flag of the European Union

People’s political choices are generally free from domination by democratically unaccountable entities.

However, Switzerland has been criticized for failing to address the lack of transparency in party financing.

Civil society leaders contend that the opaque campaign finance system allows wealthy interests to influence the platforms of the major political parties.

Suisse Conseil national 2019.svg
Above: Present Swiss National Council – (brown) Solidarity: 1 seat / (red) Swiss Labour Party (PdA) (1 seat) / (pink) Swiss Socialist Party (SP) (39 seats) / (light green) Green Party (GPS): 28 seats / (light yellow) Evangelical Party (EVP): 3 seats / (pale green) Green Liberal Party (GLP): 16 seats / (orange) Democratic Christian Party (DCP): 3 seats / (blue) Liberal Radical Party (FDP): 29 seats / (dark blue) Ticino League (LdT): 1 seat / (purple) Federal Democratic Union (FDU): 1 seat / (dark green) Central Democratic Union (Swiss People’s Party) (SVP): 53 seats

Restrictive citizenship laws and procedures tend to exclude many immigrants, as well as their children, from political participation.

About a quarter of the population is made of up noncitizens, though more than a third of these are citizens of neighboring countries.

Noncitizens do not have the right to vote in federal elections but do in some cantonal polls.

Moving to Switzerland - Guide to Switzerland Immigration

Freedom of religion is guaranteed by the constitution, and the penal code prohibits discrimination against any religion.

However, Muslims face legal and de facto discrimination.

The construction of new minarets and mosques is prohibited as the result of a 2009 referendum.

Switzerland's controversial minaret ban, ten years on - SWI swissinfo.ch

Above: Existing mosques in Switzerland

In 2018, St. Gallen became the second canton to pass its own burqa ban, after Ticino in 2016.

A debate surrounding proposals for a federal ban on burqas continued in 2019 and is likely to be put to a vote in coming years.

Switzerland referendum: Voters support ban on face coverings in public -  BBC News

Individuals are generally able to express their personal views on political issues without fear of retribution, though the law punishes public incitement to racial hatred or discrimination as well as denial of crimes against humanity.

The Federal Intelligence Service (FIS) was granted wider surveillance powers in 2017, allowing it to monitor Internet usage, bug private property, and tap the phone lines of suspected terrorists.

An additional law that came into effect in March 2018 requires mobile phone and Internet service providers to retain user data for six months to facilitate the work of law enforcement agencies.

This includes data on which websites users visited.

Both laws were being challenged at the Swiss Federal Court and the European Court of Human Rights (ECHR) at the end of 2019.

European Court of Human Rights logo.svg

According to a survey published by the University of Zürich in October 2019, more than half of Swiss Internet users are practicing self-censorship due to fears of surveillance.

University of Zurich seal.svg
Above: Logo of the University of Zürich

In May 2019 journalists uncovered the story that the FIS had surveilled several left-wing political activists and members of left-wing parties in the cities of Basel and Bern, despite not having legal grounds to do so.

The FIS has denied any wrongdoing.

Language

While the judiciary is largely independent in practice, judges are affiliated with political parties and are selected based on a system of proportional party, linguistic, and regional representation in the Federal Assembly.

The civil society group Justice Initiative (JI) continued their campaign to alter the appointment process of federal judges.

The Initiative hopes to depoliticize the appointment procedure, with candidates chosen by lot and reviewed by an independent, apolitical panel.

Stichting Justice Initiative

Switzerland continues to negotiate a framework agreement with the EU, a contentious topic in the country, which is not an EU member state.

Among other things, the agreement would clarify the jurisdiction of the European Court of Justice in Switzerland and the applicability of EU law.

Emblem of the Court of Justice of the European Union.svg
Above: Emblem of the European Court of Justice

Although the law prohibits discrimination on the basis of race, gender, or religion, anti-immigrant attitudes have grown in recent years.

A 2016 immigration law passed included measures meant to curb mass migration from the EU and required employers give preference to Swiss citizens in hiring practices.

Despite the government’s negotiations with the EU on the matter, the SVP proposed a referendum in 2017 calling for an end to free movement between Switzerland and the EU, likely to be put to a vote in 2020.

Logo

The rights of cultural, religious, and linguistic minorities are legally protected, but minority groups—especially Romany communities and people of African and Central European descent—face societal discrimination.

The Romani continue to seek official recognition as a minority in Switzerland.

Roma flag.svg
Above: Flag of the Romani people

A report by the Federal Commission Against Racism in April 2018 noted a strong increase in racial discrimination over the past 10 years.

While women generally enjoy equal rights, the gender pay gap and discrimination in the workplace persists.

A curious costume, Champery.jpg

Although the government complies with international standards for combating human trafficking, according to the 2019 edition of the US State Department’s Trafficking in Persons Report, Switzerland remains a destination country for victims.

FDFA Swiss Ministry of Foreign Affairs

Labour regulations are generally enforced, but there is no national minimum wage, and migrant workers are more vulnerable to exploitative labour practices and dangerous working conditions.

Flag of Switzerland

Switzerland nevertheless enjoys a freedom far greater than that of Vietnam (or Turkey), so why would the Swiss visit lands less free than their own?

Oblivion.

Forgetfulness.

Escape from the restraints that a profit-fixated, tradition-restrictive, xenophobically fearful, fortress mentality imposes consciously and unconsciously upon its citizenry and residents.

Heidi, as a Swiss citizen, enjoys a freedom enviable by many around the world, but the freedom to travel without worrying excessively about debt is a privilege, that (ironically) repressive systems offer international tourists, very difficult to resist.

Location of Switzerland (green) in Europe (green and dark grey)

It is easy to enjoy the show, for the show is outside ourselves.

For the spectator, the spectacle is free from debt, anxiety, stress, fear, failure, indignity, betrayal.

Cecil B. DeMille's Greatest ! The Greatest Show on Earth, 1952.jpg

Here is freedom of speech, for the spectator is not expected to speak.

Here is freedom of worship, for no one cares what the spectators believe as long as they believe in the magic of the performance.

Here is freedom from want, for if you can afford to watch a performance then clearly your ability to afford the basic needs of survival is not of paramount concern for you.

Here is freedom from fear, for no one believes that the puppets will attack the audience and no one is afraid that watching a performance will lead to unfortunate consequences.

Here we forget about the stories of our lives and lose ourselves in the sagas of the water puppets.

Vietnam water puppetry | Vietnam, Puppets, Hanoi old quarter

I will never judge harshly the traveller or the tourist, for they do provide needed income to those that serve them, and thus create employment, which in turn provides taxes that make a society function.

Instead I think of Heidi with only sympathy and respect.

By travelling, she is learning, albeit from a limited perspective.

I can never fully understand what it is to be Swiss, for I was not raised in Switzerland.

Same can be said for any other nation wherein we were not raised.

Heidi will never know the lives of the water puppeteers, will never fully know or understand their worries, their stresses, their fears, their sorrows, their joys or their dreams.

But at least through travel she can partially get a sense of who they are and how similar all humanity is.

And she will simultaneously both lose and discover herself through her experiences.

Swiss passport - Wikipedia

Perhaps there is wisdom in the Waters of Oblivion after all.

 

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Hürriyet Daily News, 28 May 2021

Swiss Miss and the 36 Streets

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Monday 1 February 2021

Is this the real life?
Is this just fantasy?
Caught in a landslide
No escape from reality
Open your eyes
Look up to the skies and see
I’m just a poor boy
I need no sympathy
Because I’m easy come, easy go
Little high, little low
Any way the wind blows doesn’t really matter to me, to me

The four members of the band sit together in front of a sandy-coloured background wearing predominantly black clothing. Mercury appears to be the dominant figure, sat in front of the other three members. From left to right, John Deacon, Mercury, Brian May, Roger Taylor. All four individuals are looking directly at the camera with a neutral expression on their faces. Above the band is some black text, printed in an elegant, italic font face. The word "Queen" is followed by "Bohemian Rhapsody", the latter of which is positioned under the band name in the same format yet smaller font.

Reality, when viewed through the prism of history, sucks.

So much bloodshed, so much needless heedless violence, that it is hard to see the silver lining in an overcast sky.

Image result for reality seen through a prism

Instead of celebrating:

  • Imbolc (the Gaelic festival celebrating the start of spring)

  • the signing of an amendment abolishing slavery (1865)

An iconic photograph of a bearded Abraham Lincoln showing his head and shoulders.

Above: Abraham Lincoln (1809 – 1865)

  • the anniversary of the first volume of the Oxford English Dictionary being published (1884)

OED2 volumes.jpg

  • the début of La Bohème being first performed (1896)

La Boheme poster by Hohenstein.PNG

  • the completion of America’s first motion picture studio (1893)

Above: Thomas Edison’s Black Maria Studio

  • the Beatles’ first #1 hit being released (1964)….

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….instead it is easier to be reminded of the dark side of this day.

A prism refracting white light into a rainbow on a black background

On this day:

  • a war (Second Schleswig War) began with an invasion (1864)

8 brigades angreb ved Dybbøl 1864.jpg

  • a king and his heir were simultaneously assassinated (1908)

Assassination of King D. Carlos I of Portugal and the Prince Royal D. Luís Filipe, Duke of Braganza

Above: The Lisbon Regicide of King Carlos I and Prince Luis Filipe

  • a Nazi government assumed power (1942 – 1945) in a conquered land (1942)

Norwegian Minister-President Vidkun Quisling in civilian clothes

Above: Norwegian Minister-President Vidkun Quisling (1887 – 1945)

  • racial equality is once again championed at great risk for the simple act of sharing a lunch counter (1960)
Image result for greensboro sit in

Above: Greensboro Sit-In (1 February – 25 July 1960)

  • a policeman killed a rebel soldier in front of the entire world on live camera (1968)
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Above: Major General Nguyên Ngoc Loan (1930 – 1998) executes Viet Cong Captain Nguyên Van Lém (1931 – 1968)

  • a fire in Sao Paulo killed 189 (1974)

Above: Joelma Building, Sao Paulo, Brazil

  • a theocratic tyrant returned to his homeland after 15 years in exile (1979)

Portrait of Ruhollah Khomeini.jpg

Above: Ruhollah Khomeini (1900 – 1989)

  • a decency law (Communications Decency Act) threatened freedom (1996)
Coat of arms or logo

  • a journalist was beheaded (2002)

Daniel pearl highres.jpg

Above: Daniel Pearl (1963 – 2002)

  • a space shuttle disintegrated (2003)

Space Shuttle Columbia launching.jpg

Above: Space Shuttle Columbia (1981 – 2003)

  • 251 people were stampeded to death during holy pilgrimage (2004)

Image result for 2004 hajj stampede

Above: The Hajj, Mecca, Saudi Arabia

  • folks rioted in an Egyptian stadium (2012)

Image result for 2012 port said disaster

Above: Port Said Stadium Disaster after-effect

  • outrage was expressed in Rochester (NY) after a nine-year-old is pepper-sprayed (2021)
Image result for nailah bey pepper sprayed

  • folks were arrested for insurrection in America and Turkey (2021)

More than 250 people have been charged in the Capitol insurrection so far. This searchable table shows them all.

Image result for bogazici university protest

  • it was apparently a good day for a coup d’état in Nepal (2005) and Myanmar (2021).

Flag of Nepal

Above: Flag of the Kingdom of Nepal

Flag of Myanmar

Above: Flag of Myanmar

Sometimes it seems that becoming a Bohemian is more rational an act that the insanity that is normal.

Bohemianism is the practice of an unconventional lifestyle, often in the company of like-minded people and with few permanent ties.

It involves musical, artistic, literary, or spiritual pursuits.

In this context, bohemians may or may not be wanderers, adventurers or vagabonds.

This use of the word in the English language was imported from French in the mid 19th century and was used to describe the non-traditional lifestyles of marginalized and impoverished artists, writers, journalists, musicians, and actors in major European cities.

Bohemians were associated with unorthodox or anti-establishment political or social viewpoints, which often were expressed through free love, frugality and — in some cases — simple living, van dwelling or voluntary poverty.

A more economically privileged, wealthy, or even aristocratic bohemian circle is sometimes referred to as haute bohème (literally “high Bohemia“).

The term bohemianism emerged in France in the early 19th century, when artists and creators began to concentrate in the lower-rent, lower class, Romani neighborhoods. 

Bohémien was a common term for the Romani people of France, who were mistakenly thought to have reached France in the 15th century via Bohemia (the western part of the modern Czech Republic).

The term bohemianism and the description bohemian in this specific context may not be connected to the ethnic or geographic term Bohemian as it pertains to the historically indigenous people from the western part of the present day Czech Republic, although it may suggest something.

Karlštejn Castle

Above: Karlstein Castle, Bohemia, Czech Republic

Literary and artistic bohemians were associated in the French imagination with the roving Romani people.

Not only were Romani called bohémiens in French because they were believed to have come to France from Bohemia, but literary bohemians and the Romani were both outsiders, apart from conventional society and untroubled by its disapproval.

Use of the French and English terms to refer to the Romani is now old-fashioned and archaic, respectively, and both the French and English terms carry a connotation of arcane enlightenment (and are considered antonyms of the word philistine) and the less frequently intended, pejorative connotation of carelessness about personal hygiene and marital fidelity.

The title character in Carmen (1876), a French opera set in the Spanish city of Seville, is referred to as a “bohémienne” in Meilhac and Halévy’s libretto.

Her signature aria declares love itself to be a “gypsy child” (enfant de Bohême), going where it pleases and obeying no laws.

Prudent-Louis Leray - Poster for the première of Georges Bizet's Carmen.jpg

The term bohemian has come to be very commonly accepted in our day as the description of a certain kind of literary gypsy, no matter in what language he speaks, or what city he inhabits.

A Bohemian is simply an artist or “littérateur” who, consciously or unconsciously, secedes from conventionality in life and in art.

(Westminster Review, 1862)

Henri Murger’s collection of short stories Scènes de la vie de bohème (Scenes of Bohemian Life), published in 1845, was written to glorify and legitimize the bohemian lifestyle.

Above: Henri Mürger (1822 – 1861)

Above: Illustration from Scènes de la vie de bohème, Paris, 1921

Above: An illustration from Henri Mürger’s 1899 book Bohemian Life

Murger’s collection formed the basis of Giacomo Puccini’s opera La Bohème (1896).

Above: Giacomo Puccini (1858 – 1924)

In England, bohemian in this sense initially was popularised in William Makepeace Thackeray’s novel, Vanity Fair, published in 1848.

1855 daguerreotype of William Makepeace Thackeray by Jesse Harrison Whitehurst (1819–1875)

Above: William Makepeace Thackeray (1811 – 1863)

Vanity Fair 01 cover.jpg

Public perceptions of the alternative lifestyles supposedly led by artists were further molded by George du Maurier’s romanticized best-selling novel of Bohemian culture Trilby (1894).

George du Maurier.jpg

Above: George du Maurier (1834 – 1896)

The novel outlines the fortunes of three expatriate English artists, their Irish model, and two colourful Central European musicians, in the artist quarter of Paris.

In Spanish literature, the Bohemian impulse can be seen in Ramón del Valle-Inclán’s play Luces de Bohemia, published in 1920.

Valle-Inclán, photographed by Pau Audouard in 1911

Above: Ramón Maria del Valle Inclán (1866 – 1936)

In his song La Bohème, Charles Aznavour described the Bohemian lifestyle in Montmartre.

Above: Charles Aznavour (1924 – 2018)

La boheme album cover.jpg

Above: Montmartre

The film Moulin Rouge! (2001) also imagines the Bohemian lifestyle of actors and artists in Montmartre at the turn of the 20th century.

Moulin rouge poster.jpg

In the 1850s, aesthetic bohemians began arriving in the United States. 

In New York City in 1857, a group of 15 to 20 young, cultured journalists flourished as self-described bohemians until the American Civil War began in 1861.

This group gathered at a German bar on Broadway called Pfaff’s Beer Cellar.

Members included their leader Henry Clapp, Jr. (1814 – 1875), Ada Clare (1834 – 1874), Walt Whitman (1819 – 1892), Fitz Hugh Ludlow (1836 – 1870) and actress Adah Isaacs Menken (1835 – 1868).

Image result for Henry Clapp, Jr.

Above: Henry Clapp, Jr.

Ada Clare.jpg

Above: Ada Clare

Whitman in 1887

Above: Walt Whitman

Above: Fitz Hugh Ludlow

Adah Isaacs Menken, age 19, 1854-55.jpg

Above: Adah Isaacs Menken

Similar groups in other cities were broken up as well by the Civil War and reporters spread out to report on the conflict.

During the war, correspondents began to assume the title bohemian, and newspapermen in general took up the moniker.

Bohemian became synonymous with newspaper writer.

In 1866, war correspondent Junius Henri Browne (1833 – 1902), who wrote for the New York Tribune and Harper’s Magazine, described bohemian journalists such as he was, as well as the few carefree women and lighthearted men he encountered during the war years.

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San Francisco journalist Bret Harte first wrote as “The Bohemian” in The Golden Era in 1861, with this persona taking part in many satirical doings, the lot published in his book Bohemian Papers in 1867.

Harte wrote:

Bohemia has never been located geographically, but any clear day when the sun is going down, if you mount Telegraph Hill, you shall see its pleasant valleys and cloud-capped hills glittering in the West.”

Bret Harte in 1872

Above: Bret Harte (1836 – 1902)

A view of Telegraph Hill from a boat in the San Francisco Bay

Above: Telegraph Hill, San Francisco

Mark Twain included himself and Charles Warren Stoddard in the bohemian category in 1867.

By 1872, when a group of journalists and artists who gathered regularly for cultural pursuits in San Francisco were casting about for a name, the term bohemian became the main choice, and the Bohemian Club was born.

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Above: Bohemian Club owl

Club members who were established and successful, pillars of their community, respectable family men, redefined their own form of bohemianism to include people like them who were bons vivants, sportsmen, and appreciators of the fine arts.

Twain in 1907

Above: Mark Twain (1835 – 1910)

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Above: Charles Warren Stoddard (1843 – 1909)

Club member and poet George Sterling responded to this redefinition:

Any good mixer of convivial habits considers he has a right to be called a bohemian.

But that is not a valid claim.

There are two elements, at least, that are essential to Bohemianism.

The first is devotion or addiction to one or more of the Seven Arts. (being architecture, sculpture, painting, literature, music, performing and film)

The other is poverty.

Other factors suggest themselves:

For instance, I like to think of my Bohemians as young, as radical in their outlook on art and life, as unconventional, and, though this is debatable, as dwellers in a city large enough to have the somewhat cruel atmosphere of all great cities.

Despite his views, Sterling associated with the Bohemian Club, and caroused with artist and industrialist alike at the Bohemian Grove.

Sterling shortly before his death in 1926[1]

Above: George Sterling (1869 – 1926)

Canadian composer Oscar Ferdinand Telgmann (1856 – 1946) and Canadian poet George Frederick Cameron (1854 – 1885) wrote the song “The Bohemian” in the 1889 opera Leo the Royal Cadet.

The impish American writer and Bohemian Club member Gelett Burgess, who coined the word blurb, supplied this description of the amorphous place called Bohemia:

To take the world as one finds it, the bad with the good, making the best of the present moment—

To laugh at Fortune alike whether she be generous or unkind—

To spend freely when one has money, and to hope gaily when one has none—

To fleet the time carelessly, living for love and art—

This is the temper and spirit of the modern Bohemian in his outward and visible aspect.

It is a light and graceful philosophy, but it is the Gospel of the Moment, this exoteric phase of the Bohemian religion.

And if, in some noble natures, it rises to a bold simplicity and naturalness, it may also lend its butterfly precepts to some very pretty vices and lovable faults, for in Bohemia one may find almost every sin save that of Hypocrisy.

His faults are more commonly those of self-indulgence, thoughtlessness, vanity and procrastination, and these usually go hand-in-hand with generosity, love and charity.

For it is not enough to be one’s self in Bohemia, one must allow others to be themselves, as well.

What, then, is it that makes this mystical empire of Bohemia unique, and what is the charm of its mental fairyland?

It is this:

There are no roads in all Bohemia!

One must choose and find one’s own path, be one’s own self, live one’s own life.

Circa 1910

Above: Gelett Burgess (1866 – 1951)

In New York City, pianist Rafael Joseffy formed an organization of musicians in 1907 with friends, such as Rubin Goldmark, called “The Bohemians New York Musicians’ Club“.

Above: Rafael Joseffy (1852 – 1915)

Near Times Square Joel Renaldo presided over “Joel’s Bohemian Refreshery” where the Bohemian crowd gathered from before the turn of the 20th century until Prohibition began to bite.

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Jonathan Larson’s musical Rent, and specifically the song “La Vie Boheme” portrayed the postmodern Bohemian culture of New York in the late 20th century.

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In May 2014, a story on NPR suggested, after a century and a half, some Bohemian ideal of living in poverty for the sake of art had fallen in popularity among the latest generation of American artists.

In the feature, a recent graduate of the Rhode Island School of Design related “her classmates showed little interest in living in garrets and eating ramen noodles.

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The term has become associated with various artistic or academic communities and is used as a generalized adjective describing such people, environs, or situations:

Bohemian (boho—informal) is defined in The American College Dictionary as “a person with artistic or intellectual tendencies, who lives and acts with no regard for conventional rules of behavior“.

Many prominent European and American figures of the 19th and 20th centuries belonged to the bohemian subculture, and any comprehensive “list of bohemians” would be tediously long.

Bohemianism has been approved of by some bourgeois writers such as Honoré de Balzac, but most conservative cultural critics do not condone bohemian lifestyles.

Daguerreotype taken in 1842

Above: Honoré de Balzac (1799 – 1850)

In Bohemian Manifesto: a Field Guide to Living on the Edge, author Laren Stover breaks down the bohemian into five distinct mind sets or styles:

  • Nouveau: bohemians that are rich who attempt to join traditional bohemianism with contemporary culture, harmonizes elements of traditional Bohemian ideology with contemporary culture without losing sight of the basic tenets — the glamour, art, and nonconformity.
  • Gypsy: the expatriate types, they create their own Gypsy ideal of nirvana wherever they go, folksy flower children, hippies, psychedelic travelers, fairy folk, dreamers, Deadheads (fans of the Grateful Dead), Phish fans, medievalists, anachronistic throwbacks to a more romantic time, they scatter like seeds on the wind, don’t own a watch, show up on your doorstep and disappear in the night, happy to sleep in your barn, and may have done so without your awareness.
  • Beat: also drifters, but non-materialist and art-focused, reckless, raggedy, rambling, drifting, down-and-out, Utopia-seeking. It may seem like they suffer for their ideals, but they have let go of material desire. They are free spirits. They believe in freedom of expression. They travel light but there’s always a book or a notebook in their pocket. They jam, improvise, extemporize, blow ethereal notes into the universe, write poetry, ramble and wreck cars. They live on the edge of ideas. They take the part and then make up their own lines.
  • Zen: “post-Beat“, focus on spirituality rather than art. No other Bohemians fathom the transient, green and meditative quality of life better than the Zens, even if they’re in a rock band, which they often are. They are Bohemians whose quest has evolved from the artistic, smoky, literary and spiritually wanderlustful to the spiritually lustful.
  • Dandy: no money, but try to appear as if they have it by buying and displaying expensive or rare items – such as brands of alcohol. A little seedy, a little haughty, slightly shredded or threadbare, Dandies are the most polished of all Bohemians, even when their clothes are tattered. The Dandy aspires to old money without the money. You are more likely to find unpopular liqueurs such as Chartreuse and Earl Grey brandy in the Dandy home than a six-pack of Budweiser.

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Aimée Crocker, an American world traveler, adventuress, heiress, and mystic, was dubbed the “Queen of Bohemia” in the 1910s by the world press for living an uninhibited, sexually liberated, and aggressively non-conformist life in San Francisco, New York, and Paris.

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Above: Aimée Crocker (1863 – 1941)

She spent the bulk of her fortune inherited from her father Edwin B. Crocker, a railroad tycoon and art collector, on travelling all over the world (lingering the longest in Hawaii, India, Japan, and China) and partying with famous artists of her time such as Oscar Wilde, Robert Louis Stevenson, Mark Twain, the Barrymores (Lionel / Ethel / John), Enrico Caruso, Isadora Duncan, Henri Matisse, Auguste Rodin and Rudolph Valentino.

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Above: Edwin B. Crocker (1818 – 1875)

Wilde in 1882

Above: Oscar Wilde (1854 – 1900)

Portrait by Henry Walter Barnett, 1893

Above: Robert Louis Stevenson (1850 – 1894)

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Above: Lionel Barrymore (1878 – 1954)

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Above: Ethel Barrymore (1879 – 1959)

Head and shoulder shot of Barrymore, cleanshaven, in profile, facing to the left

Above: John Barrymore (1882 – 1942)

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Above: Enrico Caruso (1873 – 1921)

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Above: Isadora Duncan (1877 – 1927)

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Above: Henri Matisse (1869 – 1954)

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Above: Auguste Rodin (1840 – 1917)

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Above: Rudolph Valentino (1895 – 1926)

Crocker had countless affairs and married five times in five different decades of her life, each man being in his twenties.

She was famous for her tattoos and pet snakes and was reported to have started the first Buddhist colony in Manhattan.

Spiritually inquisitive, Crocker had a ten-year affair with occultist Aleister Crowley and was a devoted student of Hatha Yoga.

1912 photograph of Aleister Crowley

Above: Aleister Crowley (1875 – 1947)

Maxwell Bodenheim, an American poet and novelist, was known as the King of Greenwich Village Bohemians during the 1920s and his writing brought him international fame during the Jazz Age.

Maxwell Bodenheim in 1919

Above: Maxwell Bodenheim (1892 – 1954)

In the 20th-century United States, the bohemian impulse was famously seen in the 1940s hipsters, the 1950s Beat Generation (exemplified by writers such as William S. Burroughs, Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac and Lawrence Ferlinghetti), the much more widespread 1960s counterculture, and 1960s and 1970s hippies.

Above: Charlie “Bird” Parker (1920 – 1955)

Burroughs in 1983

Above: William S. Burroughs (1914 – 1997)

Ginsberg in 1979

Above: Allen Ginsberg (1926 – 1997)

Jack Kerouac by Tom Palumbo circa 1956

Above: Jack Kerouac (1922 – 1969)

Lawrence Ferlinghetti at Caffe Trieste in 2007

Above: Lawrence Ferlinghetti

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Rainbow Gatherings may be seen as another contemporary worldwide expression of the bohemian impulse.

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An American example is Burning Man, an annual participatory arts festival held in the Nevada desert.

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In 2001, political and cultural commentator David Brooks contended that much of the cultural ethos of well-to-do middle-class Americans is Bohemian-derived, coining the oxymoron “bourgeois Bohemians” or “Bobos“.

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Above: David Brooks

A similar term in Germany is Bionade-Biedermeier, a 2007 German neologism combining Bionade (a trendy lemonade brand) and Biedermeier (an era of introspective Central European culture between 1815 and 1848).

The coinage was introduced in 2007 by Henning Sußebach, a German journalist, in an article that appeared in Zeitmagazin concerning Berlin’s Prenzlauer Berg lifestyle.

The hyphenated term gained traction and has been quoted and referred to since.

Kastanienallee/Schönhauser Allee

(From the 1960s onward, Prenzlauer Berg (a Berlin district) was associated with proponents of East Germany’s diverse counterculture including Christian activists, Bohemians, state-independent artists, and the gay community.

It was an important site for the peaceful revolution that brought down the Berlin Wall in 1989.

In the 1990s the borough was also home to a vibrant squatting scene.

It has since experienced rapid gentrification.)

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A German ARD TV broadcaster used the title Boheme and Biedermeier in a 2009 documentary about Berlin’s Prenzlauer Berg.

The main focus was on protagonists, that contributed to the image of a paradise for the (organic and child-raising) well-to-do, depicting cafés where “Bionade-Biedermeier sips from Fair Trade“.

Is Swiss Miss, by definition, a Bohemian?

Is your humble blogger a Bohemian?

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The Bohemian is “not easily classified like species of birds,” writes Stover, noting there are crossovers and hybrids.

By this assessment, I would say that we are in certain aspects of character and behaviour.

If I am compelled to fit Heidi and myself into Stover’s mindsets, I would say she is more Nouveau than I and I more Beat than she, (or do I mean the opposite?).

As Stover suggests there are no set moulds that we easily fit and it is debatable how accurate is my assessment in either direction.

What I do believe we share is an open-mindedness to the places where we travel.

Certainly Heidi (consciously or unconsciously) judges places through Swiss eyes as I see the world through Canadian eyes, though whether anyone would call us “typical” of our homelands is also debatable.

I think we nonetheless, despite our cultural backgrounds, tend to try and understand before assessing whether a place fits our personal philosophies.

Hanoi, Vietnam, Sunday 17 March 2019

They say whatever you’re looking for, you will find here.

They say you come to Vietnam and you understand a lot in a few minutes, but the rest has got to be lived.

The smell:

That’s the first thing that hits you, promising everything in exchange for your soul.

And the heat.

Your shirt is straightaway a rag.

You can hardly remember your name, or what you came to escape from.

But at night, there’s a breeze.

The river is beautiful.

You could be forgiven for thinking there was no war, that the gunshots were fireworks, that only pleasure matters.

A pipe of opium, or the touch of a lover who might tell you they love you.

And then, something happens, as you knew it would.

And nothing can ever be the same again.”

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After an eternity of preparation where Heidi was injected, inspected, detected, infected, neglected, and selected….

After lugging luggage from home to station….

After crossing oceans and continents….

After nearly a full 24 hours, Heidi finally arrived at Noi Bai International Airport, the largest airport in Vietnam in terms of total capacity, the largest airport in the country for cargo transport and the second busiest airport for passenger traffic, 35 kilometres (21 miles) northeast of downtown Hanoi.

The chaos on arrival is always greater than anyone expects and it is a labour of Heracles to circumnavigate the complexity of passport control and luggage retrieval.

From Terminal One (domestic flights) Heidi hails a cab.

She is too tired to navigate through a foreign city, to decipher the possible ways to negotiate the 45-minute journey, but she is nevertheless wise enough to avoid the taxi touts that greet her upon arriving properly inside the airport.

She finds the taxi booking desk and then makes her away to the taxi stand.

The airport freeway is one of the most modern roads in Vietnam (or so her guidebook informed her), but it is curious to see oxen herded by farmers dressed in rags crossing it in the dark.

And the dark seems overwhelming and endless.

Lights flicker from faraway fields and hope springs that she was headed in the right direction.

It is also odd (and disconcerting) how the freeway abruptly ends in Hanoi’s ghastly northern suburbs.

But Heidi is, nevertheless, looking forward to exploring Hanoi over the next few days.

Heidi is too tired to sleep and too hungry to rest.

After 24 hours of motion and emotion, Heidi was hung down, brung down, hung up and all kinds of mean, nasty, ugly things crowding her mind for attention.

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Hanoi’s beguiling boulevards, belle époque architecture, its peaceful parks and pagodas were enough to recommend the city to her, but there is also the bonus of a vibrant, optimistic population and fantastic food.

Heidi wanted some of that….

Hanoi sprawls along the Red River (Song Hong) which is spanned by three bridges.

The city is divided into seven central districts (quan), surrounded by outlying neighbourhoods called hyyen.

Peaceful Hoan Kiem Lake lies between the imploding maze of the Old Quarter in the north and the architecturally elegant Ba Dinh Quan (French Quarter) to the south.

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West of city centre is the monument-strewn former Imperial City.

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To the north is the lovely West Lake.

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Here two wheels are better (and more common) than four:

Motorbikes, bicycles and cyclos (pedicabs) beat the buses every time.

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Ethnic Vietnamese (kihn) dominate Hanoi, though there are a small number of ethnic minorities from around Vietnam.

Second languages reflect the historical chronology of the residents and the city:

Those under 30 (almost 3/4 of the population) speak English, the middle-aged may have a smattering of Russian or German, the elderly are often fluent in French.

Flag of Vietnam

Above: Flag of Vietnam

Hanoi residents are known for their reserve and strength of character, coupled with energy and resourcefulness.

After a history of colonization, war and Communist rule, Hanoians tend to be suspicious both of authority and of outsiders but are also hospitable and incredibly adaptive to change.

Family values abound.

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Beneath the nonchalant cool-kid-on-motorbike pop culture persona, there is usually a strong sense of Confucian responsibility and discipline.

The younger generation are well-educated and optimistic about the future.

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This is the place to have your shoes shined at 5 am, while watching merchants setting up their stalls.

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This is the place to stroll off to the flower market to buy blooms, padded bras and plastic baskets, followed by pho (beef noodle soup) for breakfast with ground pork and mushrooms at that little place next to the Binh Minh Hotel.

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Hanoi is the energy drink of Asia, the secret Fountain of Youth.

Hanoi is the city of the Long Bien Bridge, the Temple of Literature, and Communist commemoratives that alternate between dull and drab to spectacular and inspirational.

Hanoi is city lights reflecting off of Hoan Kiem Lake, colonial architecture lovingly preserved yet stark reminders of self-determination denied.

Hanoi is tree-lined boulevards and wacky water puppets, Ga Tan (stewed chicken with medicinal herbs, dates and grilled baguettes) and strong sweet coffee.

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It is also terrible terrifying traffic, bothersome bureaucracy, uncompromising censorship, the gaudiness of the newly wealthy, the grinding government surveillance searching to scratch away social evils which are everpresent even if you are unaware of the danger around you.

No one complains of the present but speaks only of the pleasant prospect of tomorrow.

Hanoi is:

  • t’ai chi practice at Hoan Kiem as day breaks.

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  • fried squid with dill, tofu with tomatoes and grilled chicken at a bia hoi (beer tavern) as night falls.

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  • xeo (rice wine) while hanging with the Minsk motorcycle club

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  • a game of badminton in Lenin Park

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  • the circus at Cong Vien Le Nin with bears, elephants and girls on roller skates – hopefully only the girls are on rollers….

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  • bolts of silk and custom made shirts in stores along Pho Hang Gai

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  • an after dark pop star performance at the Hanoi Opera House followed by a motorbike race around West Lake

  • the place of an urban myth

Hoan Kiem, the name of Hanoi’s enchanting lake, means “the returned sword“.

Legend has it that the 15th century King Le Loi had a magical sword that proved invaluable in driving back the Chinese.

One day as the King was boating on the Lake, a giant turtle rose from the depths and seized the sword, vowing to return it to the gods.

A turtle was found and preserved in the 1970s and it is thought that this turtle was 500 years old, making it enough to be the turtle of the legend.

There are still sightings of giant turtles in the Lake, the last in 1998, and scientists believe that they could be a unique species.

Everything considered, I prefer giant turtles in my Lake as opposed to monsters in my Loch (or under my bed) or alligators in the sewer.

Heidi’s bed, her budget hotel, is in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 36 streets with over a thousand years of history, one of Vietnam’s most lively and unusual places, where you can buy anything from a gravestone to silk pyjamas.

Hanoi’s commercial quarter evolved alongside the Red River and the smaller To Lich River, which once flowed throught the city centre to create an intricate network of canals and waterways teeming with boats.

As the waters could rise as high as 8 metres during the monsoon season, dikes, still seen today along Tran Quang Khai, were constructed to protect the city from flooding.

Exploring the maze of back streets is fascinating.

Some streets open up while others narrow down into a warren of smaller alleys.

The Old Quarter is known for its tunnel / tube houses – small frontages hiding very long rooms – developed to avoid taxes based on the width of their street frontage.

Look for elegant carvings on the doors and balustrades as well as examples of traditional fine arts and handicrafts such as ceramics and silk paintings.

By feudal law, houses were also limited to two storeys, which out of respect to the King, could not be taller than the Royal Palace.

Of course, these days there are taller buildings in Hanoi, but there are no real highrise buildings to mar the atmosphere here.

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In the 13th century, Hanoi’s 36 guilds established themselves here with each taking a different street (hence the name for the Old Quarter is 36 Pho Puong / 36 Streets).

Hang” in Vietnamese means “merchandise” and is usually followed by the name of the product traditionally sold in that street.

Thus, “Hang Bac” translates as “Silk Street“, however these days the street name may not necessarily correspond to what is sold there now.

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Opportunities to lighten your load of dong (the currency of Vietnam) are almost endless and as you wander around you will find wool clothes, cosmetics, fake Rayban sunglasses, luxury foods, printed T-shirts, musical instruments, plumbing supplies, herbal medicines, gold and silver jewellery, religious offerings, spices, woven mats and much, much more.

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Whether or not you wish to buy anything, your first encounter will likely be with the children who sell postcards and maps.

Of course, they are found all over the country, but in Hanoi many are orphans who have a special card to prove it, which they will immediately show to foreigners.

They are also the most notorious overchargers, asking almost triple the going price.

Steel your heart.

Walk on by.

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Navigating any Vietnamese urban area means dealing with chaotic traffic, lots of drunk people who increase in number as the sun sets, constant construction here, there and everywhere, spittle and rubbish litter the streets, animals are butchered in front of the customer, smells are strong and overpowering noise is neverending.

It is life lived raw and unapologetically.

Heidi is not intimidated by all of this, for she has travelled other Asian countries with similar scenes.

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Over the next four days, she will have opportunities to explore her hotel’s neighbourhood.

Some of the streets are more specialized than others:

Hang Bac retains its own dinh (communal house) which has long been home of the silversmiths’ guild.

The entrance to Dinh Kim Ngan is similar to that of a temple, with huge walls and wooden gates leading on to a courtyard, where a large urn holding burning incense sticks.

The altar in the main hall is dedicated to the worship of Hien Vien, a legendary figure believed to be the founder of all crafts.

Here you will find some interesting books and pamphlets about Vietnamese architecture and crafts on sale.

There are performances of ca tru music here some evenings.

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(Recognized by UNESCO in 2009 as an intangible heritage in need of safeguarding, ca tru music is performed by an ensemble consisting of just three musicians, one of whom is a female singer.

The haunting sounds are soothing and when you open your ears and your mind and close your eyes for an hour, the music is deeply moving.)

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There is Hang Quat with its red candlesticks, flags, lacquerware for festivals and funerals, and other temple items.

Hang Gai is more glamourous with silk, embroidery, lacquerware, paintings and water puppets, and where silk sleeping bag liners and Vietnamese ao dai (traditional clothing) are very popular.

Hang Ma is where paper products have been made for over 500 years, Hang Vai specializes in bamboo ladders, Hang Thiec is tin goods and mirrors, Hang Hom is glue, paint and varnish, and so on.

Gaudy tinsel dances in the breeze above brightly coloured votive object, which include model TVs and cars to be offered to the ancestors.

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Hang Buom is home to the Quarter’s oldest and most revered place of worship, the Bach Ma Temple.

The Temple was founded in the 9th century and later dedicated to the White Horse (Bach Ma), the guardian spirit of Thang Long (an ethereal site foreman who helped King Ly Thai To overcome a few problems with his citadel’s crumbling walls).

The present Temple dates largely from the 18th century and its most unusual features are a pair of charismatic, pot-bellied Cham guardians in front of the altar.

In front of them stands an antique palanquin, used each year to celebrate the Temple’s foundation on the 12th day of the 2nd lunar month.

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On the eastern fringe of the city, running along the dyke that protects the city from flooding by the Red River, is the Ceramic Road, which was created as part of Hanoi’s 1,000 year celebrations in 2010.

The Road stretches for nearly four kilometres and adds a splash to the traffic-choked streets.

The Road also has a place in the Guinness Book of Records as the largest ceramic mosaic in the world.

It depicts scenes from Vietnam’s history, famous places in the country and the lifestyles of minority groups.

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The attraction of the Long Bien Bridge is not so much looking at this historic bridge, but in walking across its mile-long span and gazing down at the chicken runs, pig pens, banana plantations and the Red River’s endless flow.

Under the Bridge, poor families live in boats on the Red River, coming from many rural areas of Vietnam.

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As in many other developing countries, hunger and poverty in Vietnam has existed for a significant amount of time.

Until the 1920s, most of the Vietnamese population still lived under the poverty line.

However, thanks to the political and economic reform in 1986 and the government’s commitment, the status of poverty and hunger in Vietnam has been significantly improved.

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From one of the poorest countries in the World with per capita income below US$100 per year, Vietnam is now a middle income country with per capita income of US$1,910 by the end of 2013.

Thereby, the poverty rate decreases gradually from 58% in 1993 to 28.9% in 2002, 14.5% in 2008 and 12% in 2011.

About 28 million people are estimated to have been lifted out of poverty over approximately two decades. 

The 2014 Global Hunger Index (GHI) Report ranked Vietnam 15th amongst 81 nations suffering from hunger, with a GHI of 7.5 compared with 27.7 in 1990 (country with extremely alarming (GHI ≥ 30), alarming (GHI between 20.0 and 29.9) or serious (GHI between 10.0 and 19.9) hunger situation.

Achievements in poverty reduction and hunger eradication have been highly appreciated by the international community and viewed overall as successful in furthering economic development.

However, Vietnam still has many tasks ahead in fighting against poverty and hunger, particularly for vulnerable groups such as ethnic minorities and the disabled.

Based on a report from the Asian Development Bank, Vietnam has a total population of 91.70 million as of 2015, about one million people more compared to the previous year.

In 2016, 5.8% of the population lived below the national poverty line; in 2019, the unemployment rate was 2.0%.)

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It is a sobering thought to think about how vulnerable the People under the Bridge truly are.

On this St. Patrick’s Day 2019, as 73 people die in Indonesian flash flooding and 84 die in Cyclone Idai in Mozambique, it is hard not to wonder how little would remain of this slum if a flood or a cyclone ever struck here.

Flood waters in Sentani

Houses submerged by flooding

The Bridge was built in 1899-1902 by the architects Daydé & Pillé of Paris, and opened in 1903.

Before North Vietnam’s independence in 1954, it was called the Paul Doumer Bridge, named after Paul Doumer – the Governor-General of French Indochina and then French President.

At 2.4 kilometres (1.5 mi) in length, it was, at that time, one of the longest bridges in Asia.

For the French colonial government, the construction was of strategic importance in securing control of northern Vietnam.

From 1899 to 1902, more than 3,000 Vietnamese took part in the construction.

It was heavily bombarded during the Vietnam War (known as the American War here) due to its critical position (the only bridge at that time across the Red River connecting Hanoi to the main port of Haiphong).

The first attack took place in 1967, and the center span of the bridge was felled by an attack by 20 USAF F-105 fighter-bombers on 11 August.

CIA reports noted that the severing of the bridge did not appear to have caused as much disruption as had been expected.

The defence of Long Bien Bridge continues to play a large role in Hanoi’s self-image and is often extolled in poetry and song.

It was rendered unusable for a year when, in May 1972, it fell victim to one of the first co-ordinated attacks using laser-guided “smart bombs“.

Some parts of the original structure remain intact, while large sections have been built later to repair the holes.

Only half of the Bridge retains its original shape.

A project with support and loan from the French government is currently in progress to restore the bridge to its original appearance.

The Bridge is now a popular spot among Hanoians who like to take selfies against the Bridge’s distinctive background.

Today trains, mopeds, bicycles and pedestrians use the dilapidated Bridge, while all other traffic is diverted to other nearby bridges.

Here, like everywhere else in Hanoi, everywhere else in Nam, one must keep an eye out for mad motorcycle riders.

Image result for long bien bridge hanoi

And finally no stroll through the Old Quarter is complete with a visit to the Dong Xuan Market, the city’s largest covered market, occupying a whole block behind its renovated facade.

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Its three storeys are dedicated to clothes and household goods, while fresh foodstuffs spill out into a bustling street market stacked with multicoloured mounds of vegetables.

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Nguyen Thien Thuat, running south from the Market’s southeast corner, is a great place to sample some unusual types of street food.

Image result for Nguyen Thien Thuat hanoi

Out in the street outside her budget hotel, Heidi steps around the little pavement fires, the small children, the piled dragon fruit, accustoming herself anew to the heavy odor of durian.

Image result for hanoi durian

She breathes deeply, inhaling that scent of Asia that always excites.

She feasts somewhere on something at 30 minutes past midnight.

In her fatigue she has forgotten all that she had worried about.

In her hunger she has cast aside inhibitions.

Image result for hanoi night market

There is a moment of clarity, a moment where she can almost sense the meaning of life, the universe and everything.

But the moment rushes through her in the space of a heartbeat, between blinks of weary eyes.

She does not know what the morrow has in store for her.

She does not know how to feel about the future, about anything.

Image result for vietnamese calendar

Her appetite is sated and her senses saturated by the strangeness around her.

She is unaware of neither how she returned to her hotel or how she finds herself with heavy head on bed pillow.

Image result for hanoi hostel

They say you come to Vietnam and understand a lot in a few minutes.

The rest has got to be lived.

They say whatever it was you were looking for, you will find here.

They say there is a ghost in every house, and if you can make peace with him, he will stay quiet.”

QuietAmerican.jpg

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Lonely Planet Vietnam / Rough Guide to Vietnam

Canada Slim and the Hee Haw Halt

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Sunday 17 January 2021

Anton Chekhov once wrote that people don’t notice whether it is winter or summer when they are happy.

And I think there is something to this.

If we learn to appreciate that there will be times when the trees will be bare and console ourselves with the thought that one day the trees will again bear fruit, then winter becomes somewhat bearable.

I am no psychologist and even if I were I should not pretend to understand what I actually don’t comprehend.

As Chekhov would say:

Only fools and charlatans know everything and understand nothing.

(Perhaps American voters could use this advice during their elections.)

Chekhov seated at a desk

Above: Anton Chekhov (1860 – 1904)

Perhaps part of my present happiness is the simple acceptance that all of life and human relations have become so incomprehensibly complex that when I think about it, life becomes terrifying and my heart threatens to stand still.

Best not to think, for life does not agree with philosophy.

There is no happiness that is not idleness and only what is useless is pleasureable,” so sayeth the Russian dramatist.

Best to be idle and not think.

Silhouette of Children at Play Drawing by Audrey Drake

But idleness isn’t easy for me.

I was raised with Catholic guilt and the Protestant work ethic.

I married a righteous lady doctor who has always been ambitious, industrious and efficient.

Female Doctor Images | Free Vectors, Stock Photos & PSD

Above: Not the wife, but idea is the same

So many folks fear the future and the crises that tomorrow may bring, but, like Chekhov, I believe that, for most of us, any idiot can face a crisis.

It is day-to-day living that wears you out.

Best not to think too much about it.

When I travel, whether in records of history, works of literature, or across the many miles that make up a world, I try to understand, I try to know, the lives that people live.

Understanding, knowledge, demands thought.

I write about my discoveries, because knowledge has no value unless it is shared, unless it is put into practice.

Writer at Work | Writers Write

The play The Cherry Orchard opened on director Konstantin Stanislavski’s 41st birthday (he of the famous method of actor training, preparation, and rehearsal technique), 17 January 1904, in the Moscow Art Theatre.

During rehearsals, the structure of Act Two was re-written.

The Cherry Orchard MAT.jpg

Above: Scene from The Cherry Orchard, Moscow Art Theater, 1904

Famously contrary to Chekhov’s wishes, Stanislavski’s version was, by and large, a tragedy.

Chekhov disliked the Stanislavski production intensely, concluding that Stanislavski had “ruined” his play.

Stanislavski.jpg

Above: Konstantin Stanislavski (1863 – 1938)

In one of many letters on the subject, Chekhov would complain:

Anya, I fear, should not have any sort of tearful tone.

Not once does my Anya cry, nowhere do I speak of a tearful tone, in the second act there are tears in their eyes, but the tone is happy, lively.

Why did you speak in your telegram about so many tears in my play?

Where are they?

Often you will find the words “through tears,” but I am describing only the expression on their faces, not tears.

And in the second act there is no graveyard.

Amazon.com: The Cherry Orchard (Dover Thrift Editions) eBook: Chekhov, Anton:  Kindle Store

The playwright’s wife Olga Knipper played Madame Ranevskaya in the original Moscow Art Theatre production, as well as in the 300th production of the play by the theatre in 1943.

Although critics at the time were divided in their response to the play, the debut of The Cherry Orchard was a resounding theatrical success and the play was almost immediately presented in many of the important provincial cities.

This success was not confined only to Russia, as the play was soon seen abroad with great acclaim as well.

Olga Knipper.jpg

Above: Olga Knipper (1868 – 1959)

Shortly after the play’s debut, Chekhov departed for Germany due to his worsening health, and by July 1904 he was dead.

Above: Grave of Anton Chekhov, Novodevichy Cemetery, Moscow, Russia

Chekhov originally intended the play as a comedy (indeed, the title page of the work refers to it as such), and in letters noted that it is, in places, almost farcical.

He was horrified to find that the director had moulded the play into a tragedy.

Ever since that time, productions have had to struggle with this dual nature of the play (and of Chekhov’s works in general).

Generally, Chekhov wished to laugh at life and revel in all its absurdity.

The Cherry Orchard | Muhlenberg College

One of the main themes of this play is the effect social change has on people.

The play revolves around an aristocratic Russian landowner who returns to her family estate (which includes a large and well-known cherry orchard) just before it is auctioned to pay the mortgage.

Unresponsive to offers to save the estate, she allows its sale to the son of a former serf.

Amazon.com: The Cherry Orchard (1981 and 1962 Versions): Judi Dench: Movies  & TV

The family leaves to the sound of the cherry orchard being cut down.

Cherry Orchard by Anton chekhov - Canan Kaplan

The story presents themes of cultural futility – both the futile attempts of the aristocracy to maintain its status and of the bourgeoisie to find meaning in its newfound materialism.

It dramatizes the socio-economic forces in Russia at the turn of the 20th century, including the rise of the middle class after the abolition of serfdom in the mid-19th century and the decline of the power of the aristocracy.

The Cherry Orchard (BBC, 1981) | SPACES OF TELEVISION

Ranevskaya’s failure to address problems facing her estate and family mean that she eventually loses almost everything and her fate can be seen as a criticism of those people who are unwilling to adapt to the new.

Her petulant refusal to accept the truth of her past, in both life and love, is her downfall throughout the play.

She ultimately runs between her life in Paris and in Russia (she arrives from Paris at the start of the play and returns there afterwards).

She is a woman who lives in an illusion of the past (often reliving memories about her son’s death, etc.).

The Cherry Orchard (TV) (1981) - Filmaffinity

Cherry trees themselves are often seen as symbols of sadness or regret at the passing away of a certain situation or of the times in general.

The Cherry Orchard by Anton Chekhov - Free at Loyal Books

The idea of independence and freedom is highly prevalent when the reader takes a look at Firs and Lopakhin.

Firs (the aged manservant) has been with the estate for decades, and all he’s ever known is to serve his masters.

When the news of the Orchard being closed, Firs seems unfazed by the news, and continues to maintain his duties, he is unable to find his independence and freedom, however.

The CinemaScope Cat: The Cherry Orchard (1981)

The merchant Lophakin was able to “free” himself.

In the sense that he was able to find motivation to keep on going.

Even though the two are polar opposites on the social ladder, they both have internal struggles regarding what their life is going to be after the Orchard closes.

The Cherry Orchard (Modern Plays) Anton Chekhov: Methuen Drama

The theme of identity, and the subversion of expectations of such, is one that can be seen in The Cherry Orchard.

Indeed, the cast itself can be divided up into three distinct parts:

  • the Gayev family (Ranevskaya, Gayev, Anya and Varya)
  • family friends (Lopakhin, Pishchik and Trofimov)
  • the “servant class” (Firs, Yasha, Dunyasha, Charlotta and Yepikhodov)

The irony is that some of them clearly act out of place:

  • Varya, the adopted daughter of an aristocrat, is a housekeeper
  • Trofimov, the thinking student, is thrown out of university
  • Yasha (the young manservant) considers himself part of the Parisian cultural élite
  • Both Madame Ranevskaya and aristocrat Pishchik are running low on money
  • Lopakhin, born a peasant, is practically a millionaire.

The Cherry Orchard by Anton Chekhov | V&A | Cherry orchard, Orchard, Anton  chekhov

What makes Chekhov a delight to the patient patron is that each character, a real person with real problems, is always talking to someone they shouldn’t.

What makes me prefer Chekhov to real life and modern times is that the characters despite their complaints interact with one another with gentleness and warmth, charm and kindness.

In a Chekhov play every scene matters.

Though it may seem at times that Chekhov bombards his audience with too much information, it is the type of information strangers exchange with one another to understand the context from where they speak.

I have no illusions that I write like Chekhov, but I seek out the people in the places I visit, and sometimes that requires a fair amount of information to get a sense of how people and places interact.

The Cherry Orchard / Reminiscences of Anton Chekhov by Anton Chekhov

Every day of the year major events happen to real people with real problems.

Just speaking of the opening performance of The Cherry Orchard, without never witnessing a performance, without ever have read a line of the play, one can see the demanding director cocksure that he knows better than the playwright how the play should be performed, one can feel the aging, ailing playwright frets and fume in frustration over how his vision of the piece is being twisted and tortured.

Above: Portrait of Chekhov by Osip Braz, 1898

Consider other events of the day:

  • the beginning of Prohibition, where no one was allowed to drink alcohol

Imagine the craving for alcohol produced by its prohibition!

Imagine the temptation to make money from this denied demand!

  • Auschwitz concentration camp is evacuated as Soviet forces close in

Of the 1.3 million people sent to Auschwitz, 1.1 million died.

The death toll included 960,000 Jews (865,000 of whom were gassed on arrival), 74,000 non-Jewish Poles, 21,000 Roma, 15,000 Soviet prisoners of war, and up to 15,000 other Europeans.

Those not gassed died of starvation, exhaustion, disease, individual executions, or beatings.

Others were killed during medical experiments.

Auschwitz I (22 May 2010).jpg

According to Polish historian Andrzej Strzelecki, the evacuation of the camp was one of its “most tragic chapters“.

Himmler ordered the evacuation of all camps in January 1945, telling camp commanders:

The Führer holds you personally responsible for making sure that not a single prisoner from the concentration camps falls alive into the hands of the enemy.

Beginning on 17 January 1945, some 58,000 Auschwitz detainees (about two-thirds Jews)—over 20,000 from Auschwitz I and II and over 30,000 from the subcamps—were evacuated under guard, at first heading west on foot, mostly to the train depot at Wodzislaw Slaski (Loslau), then by open-topped freight trains, to other concentration camps in Germany and Austria.

Fewer than 9,000 remained in the camps, deemed too sick to move.

During the marches, the SS shot or otherwise dispatched anyone unable to continue; “execution details” followed the marchers, killing prisoners who lagged behind.

It is estimated that a quarter of the detainees were thus killed.

I cannot even begin to imagine the horror and suffering to be witnessed on that day.

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  • Raoul Gustaf Wallenberg (1912 – disappeared 1945) was a Swedish architect, businessman, diplomat and humanitarian.

He saved tens of thousands of Jews in German-occupied Hungary during the Holocaust from German Nazis and Hungarian Fascists during the later stages of World War II.

While serving as Sweden’s special envoy in Budapest between July and December 1944, Wallenberg issued protective passports and sheltered Jews in buildings designated as Swedish territory.

On 17 January 1945, during the Siege of Budapest by the Red Army, Wallenberg was detained by SMERSH on suspicion of espionage and subsequently disappeared.

Besides the fear and terror Wallenberg must have felt when he realized that his position no longer protected him from harm and that he was completely helpless and powerless against a merciless enemy, I wonder what consolation he might have felt that he had saved the lives of so many.

Raoul Wallenberg.jpg

Above: Raoul Wallenberg

  • Three days prior to leaving the office of the presidency, President Dwight D. Eisenhower delivered his farewell address to the nation in a television broadcast on 17 January 1961.

Perhaps best known for advocating that the nation guards against the potential influence of the military-industrial complex, a term he is credited with coining, the speech also expressed concerns about planning for the future and the dangers of massive spending, especially deficit spending, the prospect of the domination of science through Federal funding and, conversely, the domination of science-based public policy by what he called a “scientific-technological elite“.

As we peer into society’s future, we – you and I, and our government – must avoid the impulse to live only for today, plundering for our own ease and convenience the precious resources of tomorrow.

We cannot mortgage the material assets of our grandchildren without risking the loss also of their political and spiritual heritage.

We want democracy to survive for all generations to come, not to become the insolvent phantom of tomorrow.

Dwight D. Eisenhower, official photo portrait, May 29, 1959.jpg

Above: Dwight D. Eisenhower (1890 – 1969)

Until the latest of our world conflicts, the United States had no armaments industry.

American makers of plowshares could, with time and as required, make swords as well.

File:Image-UN Swords into Plowshares Statue.JPG - Wikipedia

But we can no longer risk emergency improvisation of national defense.

We have been compelled to create a permanent armaments industry of vast proportions.

Added to this, three and a half million men and women are directly engaged in the defense establishment.

We annually spend on military security alone more than the net income of all United States corporations.

Now this conjunction of an immense military establishment and a large arms industry is new in the American experience.

The total influence—economic, political, even spiritual—is felt in every city, every Statehouse, every office of the Federal government.

We recognize the imperative need for this development.

Yet, we must not fail to comprehend its grave implications.

Our toil, resources, and livelihood are all involved.

So is the very structure of our society.

Flag of the United States

In the councils of government, we must guard against the acquisition of unwarranted influence, whether sought or unsought, by the military-industrial complex.

The potential for the disastrous rise of misplaced power exists and will persist.

We must never let the weight of this combination endanger our liberties or democratic processes.

We should take nothing for granted.

Only an alert and knowledgeable citizenry can compel the proper meshing of the huge industrial and military machinery of defense with our peaceful methods and goals, so that security and liberty may prosper together.

Akin to, and largely responsible for the sweeping changes in our industrial-military posture, has been the technological revolution during recent decades.

In this revolution, research has become central, it also becomes more formalized, complex, and costly.

A steadily increasing share is conducted for, by, or at the direction of, the Federal government.

The prospect of domination of the nation’s scholars by Federal employment, project allocation, and the power of money is ever present and is gravely to be regarded.

Yet in holding scientific discovery in respect, as we should, we must also be alert to the equal and opposite danger that public policy could itself become the captive of a scientific-technological elite.”

US Capitol west side.JPG

21st-century commentators have expressed the opinion that a number of the fears raised in his speech have come true.

Toronto – London, Ontario, Canada, Sunday 12 January 2020

The train continues into the darkness.

8 Tips for Riding Transit Alone At Night

Down the line is Aldershot Station, a railway station and bus station used by VIA Rail and GO Transit, located at Highway 403 and Waterdown Road in the Aldershot community of Burlington. 

Aldershot GO Station - Wikiwand

A silver gorget – George III’s “gift of a friend” to Joseph Brant – is displayed in the Brant Museum, a replica of a cedar house that the great Mohawk chief built about 1800.

Retiring head of the Brant Museum takes a final big smoke. « Burlington  Gazette - Local News, Politics, Community

Brant (Thayendanegea) was granted 3,560 acres here in 1798 for his military services during the American Revolution.

He lived here until his death in 1807.

Joseph Brant painting by George Romney 1776 (2).jpg

Above: Joseph Brant (1743 – 1807)

The museum exhibits a collection of spear and arrow points, wampum, French and British trade axes, a copy of Brant’s will, a letter in his hand, a musket Brant used, dishes from the original house and Brant’s Masonic ring.

About Joseph Brant – Burlington Museum Foundation

Joseph Brant Museum has ongoing exhibits on the history of Burlington, the Eileen Collard Costume Collection, Captain Joseph Brant and the visible storage gallery. 

Joseph Brant Museum - Hamilton Halton Brant

Ireland House at Oakridge Farm is a history museum depicting family life from the 1850s to the 1920s.

Ireland House Museum | Ontario Museums

Above: Ireland House

There are 115 parks and 580 hectares of parkland in the city.

On the shore of Lake Ontario, Spencer Smith Park features an expansive shoreline walking path.

The park is newly renovated, with an observatory, outdoor pond, water jet play area and restaurant.

Fall Spencer Smith Park - Tourism Burlington Tourism Burlington

Above: Spencer Smith Park

Many annual free festivals take place in Spencer Smith Park, including Canada’s Largest Ribfest and the Sound of Music Festival, Canada Day, Children’s Festival and Lakeside Festival of Lights.

Canada's Largest Ribfest - Rotary Ribfest - Tourism Burlington Tourism  Burlington

Burlington Sound of Music Festival - Hamilton | Globalnews.ca

There is also the semi-annual prix fixe Taste of Burlington dining event.

Home - Taste of Burlington

The Brant Street Pier opened in Spencer Smith Park during the Sound of Music Festival on Father’s Day weekend 2013.

Thousands of people from Burlington and beyond flocked to the pier to enjoy sunshine and scenic views.

The pier extends 137 metres over Lake Ontario and provides views of the lake and Burlington’s shoreline.

Brant Street Pier - City of Burlington

The Art Gallery of Burlington is adjacent to Spencer Smith Park, and contains diverse permanent and changing exhibits.

The Gallery houses a prominent collection of Canadian ceramics.

The Gallery’s exhibition spaces, which feature new exhibitions every eight to ten weeks, are fully accessible and are free to visitors.

Art Gallery of Burlington - Hamilton Halton Brant

Royal Canadian Naval Association Naval Memorial (1995)” by André Gauthier is a 6’4″ high cast bronze statue of a WWII Canadian sailor in the position of attention saluting his lost shipmates, which was erected in Spencer Smith Park.

The model for the statue was a local Sea Cadet wearing Mike Vencel’s naval service uniform.

On the black granite base, the names of Royal Canadian Navy and Canadian Merchant Marine ships sunk during WWII are engraved.

On the granite wall, the names of all Royal Canadian Navy ships and Canadian Merchant Marine vessels which saw service in WWII are engraved.

The Royal Canadian Naval Ships Memorial Monument faces Lake Ontario at  Spencer Smith Park in Downtown … | Royal canadian navy, Burlington ontario,  Canadian military

A monument commemorating the Korean War was erected in the summer of 2014 to mark the 61st anniversary of the armistice to end the war.

Canadian Destroyers that served in Korea Monument, Royal Canadian Naval  Ships Memorial Monument, Spencer Smith Park, Burlington, ON - a photo on  Flickriver

Burlington is home to the Royal Botanical Gardens, which has the world’s largest lilac collection.

Lilacs - Royal Botanical Gardens

Ontario’s botanical garden and National Historic Site of Canada features over 2,700 acres (11 km2) of gardens and nature sanctuaries, including four outdoor display gardens, the Mediterranean Garden under glass, three on-site restaurants, the Gardens’ Gift Shop, and festivals.

Home - Royal Botanical Gardens

The local sections of the Bruce Trail and the Niagara Escarpment, which is a UNESCO designated World Biosphere Reserve, provide excellent hiking opportunities.

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Kerncliff Park, in an abandoned quarry on the boundary with Waterdown, is a naturalized area on the lip of the Niagara Escarpment.

Kerncliff Park (Burlington) - 2021 All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (with  Photos) - Tripadvisor

The Bruce Trail runs through the park, at many points running along the edge of the cliffs, providing a clear overlook of Burlington, the Burlington Skyway Bridge, Hamilton, and Oakville.

Explore the Trail | Bruce Trail

On a clear day, one can see the CN Tower in Toronto, approximately 50 kilometres (31 mi) from the park.

Burlington, Ontario skyway bridge and a sweet view of Toronto and the CN  Tower | Burlington ontario, Burlington, Ontario

Burlington offers four indoor and two outdoor pools, four splash pads, nine ice pads, four community centres and nine golf courses.

The Appleby Ice Centre is a 4-pad arena, used year-round for skating and ice hockey.

Arenas and Ice Centres - City of Burlington

The Burlington Performing Arts Centre opened in 2011.

This 940-seat facility is on Locust Street in the downtown core.

It contains two theatres for theatrical and musical performances.

About | The Burlington Performing Arts Centre

Chekhov once wrote that there is nothing new in art except talent.

Talent can be found in Burlington.

Notable people from Burlington:

  • Margaret Lindsay Holton is a Canadian artist primarily known for her ‘naive-surreal-folk-abstracts‘ oil and acrylic paintings, pinhole photography, short documentary film productions, poetry and literary novel works.
Margaret Lindsay Holton

Her third year at university was spent at the University of Edinburgh, where she focused on the history of the English language.

University of Edinburgh ceremonial roundel.svg

While in Scotland, she traveled to the Outer Hebrides on a walk-study tour of the islands.

Outer Hebrides UK relief location map.jpg

She traveled through northern Ireland and stayed at a rented croft cottage on the west coast.

Map of Northern Ireland (Political Map) : Worldofmaps.net - online Maps and  Travel Information

She also traveled through eastern Russia, exploring the cities of Leningrad (St. Petersburg) and Moscow.

Above: St. Petersburg

View of Red Square

Above: Red Square, Moscow

After this third year of study, she toured western Europe.

Map of Western Europe | Europe map, Bosnia, Map

Returning to Toronto, Canada, Holton began a succession of jobs in the Canadian publishing and film industry.

In 1978, Holton registered her design business, MLH Productions, under which she has undertaken a number of artistic ventures.

Holton is a designer of Canadian fine furniture and typefaces.

canadadaPHOTOGRAPHY: Canadian Fine Furniture by mlh (a few examples)

She is also the author of eleven book works of poetry, prose, social history & photography.

She has produced and performed for two musical CDs: Summer Haze and Canada: Take Two.

canadadaPHOTOGRAPHY: ACORN PRESS CANADA - Artbooks, DVDs & CDs

canadadaPHOTOGRAPHY: ACORN PRESS CANADA - Artbooks, DVDs & CDs

 In 2015, she produced, directed and wrote a classic Canadian WW1 film, The Frozen Goose.

The Frozen Goose (2016) - IMDb

Holton is a pinhole and photo-collage photographer.

Holton makes all of her own pinhole cameras from found cardboard boxes and tins.

She hand-processes the negatives and prints in editions of one to five.

All authentic MLH prints are signed, numbered and dated by her.

Photographer Interview – Margaret Lindsay Holton – 'Pinhole Photography' |  toofulltowrite (I've started so I'll finish)

Holton’s paintings are “naive-surreal-folk-abstracts“, a descriptive moniker that demonstrates how her work falls outside of traditional and current ‘art schools‘.

Nature, environmental themes and planet Earth predominate in her work.

She has participated in over one hundred group exhibitions in Canada, the US and Europe and participated in solo and studio tours over the past two decades.

Holton continues to exhibit regularly throughout the Golden Horseshoe region of southern Ontario, Canada.

canadadaPHOTOGRAPHY: New Painting: 'The Clearing' by M.L.Holton, Canada,  2017

In 1979, Holton designed the ‘Lindsay’ (TM) typeface, used as the defining font for the popular board game, Carcassone.

Carcassonne-game.jpg

  • James Picard is a Canadian artist, teacher and humanitarian, born in Burlington, Ontario.

James Picard in his studio, 2006

He is known for his diversity in styles and mediums in painting and sculpture; and for being extremely prolific.

In 1988 Picard moved his young family from Toronto to Vancouver, while continuing to paint and sculpt.

Since 1995, he has taught at numerous post-secondary institutions in the greater Vancouver region.

He is recognized for his inspirational teaching.

Picard knew from a young age that he would be an artist.

James Picard | Art, Dark art, Creepy art

As a youth, he taught himself to paint and he read extensively about art and artists.

He names Francis Bacon, Pablo Picasso, Rembrandt and Monet as influences.

Above: Francis Bacon (1909 – 1992)

Francis Bacon & Dali Eggs Painting by Yianni Johns | Saatchi Art

Above: Francis Bacon and Dali Eggs

Portrait de Picasso, 1908.jpg

Above: Pablo Picasso (1881 – 1973)

Pablo Picasso Art - Hand Painted Cubist Portrait Oil Painting On Canvas | Pablo  picasso art, Famous art paintings, Picasso art

Rembrandt van Rijn - Self-Portrait - Google Art Project.jpg

Above: Self-portrait, Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn (1606 – 1669)

Claude Monet 1899 Nadar crop.jpg

Above: Claude Monet (1840 – 1926)

Top 5 Most Expensive Claude Monet Paintings Ever Sold - Arius-Technology

Picard studied at Sheridan College and the Ontario College of Art and Design.

Sheridan College 2013 logo.svg

OCAD University Logo.png

He worked with several artists:

  • Cuban watercolourist Ramon Amor
  • Canadian sculptor Thaddaeus Szpelowitz
  • Canadian painter Harold Town

Harold Town stated in a written note that Picard’s talent “is rare in the art world“. 

HAROLD TOWN: SIXTIES STYLE ICON - YouTube

Above: Harold Town (1924 – 1990)

Picard’s philosophy is based on following one’s own creative urge.

He firmly rejects producing art solely for the demands of the market and has spoken out to artists to avoid doing so.

His own work defies identification as one style and ranges expressionism through traditional realism.

The Buzz from Translucent: JAMES PICARD ARTISTRY for YOUR VALENTINE!!!

Picard teaches drawing, painting and sculpture in Vancouver at various post-secondary and community locations including Emily Carr University of Art and Design, North Vancouver Neighbourhood House and Picard Studios.

He has arranged student shows to give students an opportunity to show their work.

He is known for his inspirational teaching that focuses on the creative process. 

In 1998, Picard set up the first sculpture class for visually impaired students in the Vancouver area.

I think Picard is a person I would like to meet and watch him spin his magic.

Sketches of pain: Vancouver artist exhibits wounds in dark places

  • Boys Night Out is a rock band based in Burlington.

2005’s Trainwreck is a subdued, experimental concept album based on a man’s loss of sanity. 

Trainwreck opens with a doctor dictating his notes into a tape recorder.

The album chronicles the arrest, trial, treatment and subsequent release of a man who, in a waking dream, murders his wife and then cuts both his hands off with a machine at his work so that he can not kill again.

Kara Dupuy’s vocals act as the deceased wife’s voice heard by the patient throughout the album.

BNO-trainwreck cover.jpg

  • The Creepshow is a band from Burlington, formed in 2005 when the four original members got together with the purpose of starting a psychobilly (rockabilly meets punk) band – the majority of their songs about horror films.

Run For Your Life | The Creepshow

  • Finger Eleven is a Canadian alternative band from Burlington, formed in 1990.

FingerElevenFingerEleven.jpg

They have released seven studio albums (six as Finger Eleven and one as Rainbow Butt Monkeys), with their album The Greyest of Blue Skies bringing them into the mainstream.

FingerElevenTGOBS.jpeg

Their 2003 self-titled album achieved Gold status in the United States and Platinum in Canada, largely from the success of the single “One Thing“, which marked the band’s first placing on the US Hot 100 Chart at #16.

Their 2007 album, Them vs You vs Me launched the single “Paralyzer“, which went on to top the Canadian Hot 100 and both US rock charts, as well as reaching #6 on the US Hot 100 and #12 on the Australian Singles Chart.

Finger eleven paralyzer.png

They won the Juno Award for Rock Album of the Year in 2008.

The same album was later certified gold in the US and multi-platinum in Canada.

2020 JUNO AWARDS DEADLINES AND DATES: SUBMISSIONS NOW OPEN - eBOSS Canada

They released their 6th studio album, Life Turns Electric, on 5 October 2010.

It was nominated for a Juno Award for Best Rock Album of the Year.

The first single off the album, “Living in a Dream“, added elements of funk rock and dance rock, just like their hit song “Paralyzer“. 

Finger-Eleven-Life-Turns-Electric-Artwork.jpg

Five Crooked Lines, their 7th studio album, was released in 2015.

Between 1995 and 2016, Finger Eleven was among the top 75 best-selling Canadian artists in Canada and among the top 25 best-selling Canadian bands in Canada.

Finger Eleven - Five Crooked Lines (2015, CD) | Discogs

Quite enjoyable for this ol’ rocker.

  • Grade is a melodic hardcore band from Burlington, often credited as pioneers in blending metallic hardcore with the honest and melody of emo, and – most notably – the alternating screaming/singing style later popularized by bands like Poison the Well and Hawthorne Heights. 

Ptw-youcomebeforeyou.JPG

Fragile Future.jpg

Formed in 1994, Grade found inspiration in the hardcore bands Integrity and Chokehold.

Integrity Closure.jpg

CHOKEHOLD Prison Of Hope | Chokehold

By 1995, however, they had discovered Indian Summer and Rye Coalition and began developing the sound and style for which they’d become known.

Indian Summer Albums: songs, discography, biography, and listening guide -  Rate Your Music

Rye Coalition - On Top (2002, CD) | Discogs

I like a song or two of Grade, but when the screaming overpowers the singing I tend to flee.

Grade-AndSuchIsProgress.jpg

  • Sarah Harmer is a Burlington singer, songwriter and environmental activist.

Harmer gained her first exposure to the musician’s lifestyle as a teenager, when her older sister started taking her to Tragically Hip concerts.

I find her voice as soothing as a cool breeze on a warm day.

Sarah Harmer at the 2010 Vancouver International Folk Music Festival

  • Spoons is a new wave band, formed in 1979 in Burlington.

They recorded several Canadian chart hits between 1982 and 1989, and in 1983, they were nominated for Most Promising Group of the Year at the Juno awards.

Their most popular songs include “Romantic Traffic“, “Nova Heart“, “Old Emotions“, and “Tell No Lies“.

Listening to them on my phone was as reminiscent as remembering an old romance.

Spoons - collectible.jpg

  • Walk off the Earth is an indie pop band from Burlington.

The group is known for its music videos of covers and originals.

The band is well known for covering pop-genre music on YouTube, making use of instruments such as the ukulele and the theremin, as well as looping samples.

Absolutely delightful!

Walk off the Earth performing in Toronto at the Canadian National Exhibition 2013

I’m gonna put a million miles on these cowboy boots
And a real big dent in my revenue
If I ain’t done it all just means I ain’t done it yet
When I look back I don’t wanna have one single regret

I’m gonna soak up the sun
Keep the wind in my sails
Try to get to heaven
While I raise a little hell

When it’s all said and done
I’ll know I lived it well
If I ain’t got nothin’ but
A few good stories to tell

I’m gonna put a few scratches on this old guitar
I’m gonna sip some good whiskey, smoke a Cuban cigar
I’m gonna dance with my baby to some slow motown
I’m gonna live it up so much I ain’t never gonna live it down

Till then I’ll soak up the sun
Keep the wind in my sails
Try to get to heaven
While I raise a little hell

When it’s all said and done
I’ll know I lived it well
If I ain’t got nothin’ but
A few good stories to tell

Yeah!
Gonna be a few crazy ones
Probably be a few hazy ones
But man when my days are done
It’ll make a good book

Till then I’ll soak up the sun
Keep the wind in my sails
Try to get to heaven
While I raise a little hell

When it’s all set and done
I’ll know I lived it well
If I ain’t got nothin’ but
A few good stories to tell

AFewGoodStories.jpeg

  • Comedian Jim Carrey and actor Ryan Gosling both attended school in Burlington.

Jim Carrey 2008.jpg

Above: Jim Carrey

Ryan Gosling in 2018.jpg

Above: Ryan Gosling

  • Gordon “Gordie” Robert Tapp (1922 – 2016) was a Canadian entertainer, best known as a radio and television presenter, comedian and a CBS broadcaster.
Remembering Gordie Tapp - Northernstars.ca

He was introduced to US President Gerald Ford as the world’s funniest storyteller.

Gerald Ford presidential portrait (cropped).jpg

Above: Gerald Ford (1913 – 2006)

Tapp studied at the Lorne Greene Academy of Radio Arts.

Lorne Greene - 1969.jpg

Above: Lorne Greene (1915 – 1987) (Bonanza / Battlestar Galactica)

He was the host for Main Street Jamboree, a radio program broadcast from Hamilton during the 1950s.

Main Street Jamboree - Canadian Radio (2013, CD) | Discogs

Tapp later emceed the CBC television show Country Hoedown as well as The Performers, a series of shows featuring ‘up and coming‘ young Canadian talent, which was recorded in major Canadian cities including Montreal, Toronto, Winnipeg, and Vancouver.

NipClub: #NipClub Country Hoedown June 21. 2018

He went on to perform and write for the CBS television show Hee Haw.

Hee Haw.jpg

His famous roles were Cousin Clem, Samuel B. Sternwheeler, Mr. Gordon the storekeeper, and Lavern Nagger, the forever put-upon husband of Ida Lee Nagger (Roni Stoneman).

Gordie Tapp, Cousin Clem on 'Hee Haw,' Dies at 94 | Hollywood Reporter

Above: Gordie Tapp as Cousin Clem

Samuel B. Sternwheeler | Hee Haw Wiki | Fandom

Above: Gordie Tapp as Samuel B Sternwheeler

Lavern and Ida Lee Nagger: One of my favorite skits on Hee Haw. | Hee haw  show, Hee haw, Country western singers

Above: Lavern and Ida Lee Naggar

Gordie was the special guest star on episode #54 of the popular weekly variety program The Bobby Vinton Show in October 1977.

The program was produced in Toronto and aired across the United States and Canada.

Bobby Vinton, 1964

Above: Bobbie Vinton (“Blue Velvet” / “Roses are Red (My Love)“)

Gordie performed a duet of “That’s Amore” with Vinton.

Tapp was inducted into the Canadian Country Music Hall of Fame (Merritt, British Columbia) in 1990.

CCMA Hall of Fame To Induct Charlie Major & Anya Wilson | FYIMusicNews

He was awarded the Order of Canada in 1998 for his work in helping raise funds for organizations such as the Canadian Muscular Dystrophy campaign and Easter Seals.

Replica Order of Canada member medal.jpg

In 1999, he was awarded the Order of Ontario — the highest honour in the province of Ontario.

Order of Ontario.jpg

In his later life, Tapp was the commercial spokesperson for the Ultramatic adjustable bed.

He died in Burlington at age 94.

Gordie Tapp (1922-2016) - Find A Grave Memorial

I remember Gordie Tapp especially for his stint on Hee Haw when every week he would sing along with some guest stars (such as Charley Pride, Lorne Greene, Loretta Lynn, Dennis Weaver (1924 – 2006), Will Geer, Ruth Buzzi, Ernest Borgnine, Tennessee Ernie Ford, Tammy Wynette, Billy Carter, Johnny Cash….) the charming and hilarious ditty:

Pride performing at Capital Centre on Inauguration Day, January 1981

Above: Charlie Pride (1934 – 2020) (“Kiss an Angel Good Morning“)

Review: Loretta Lynn's “The Pill” | The New Yorker

Above: Loretta Lynn (“Coal Miner’s Daughter“)

Cult TV Lounge: McCloud season 1 (1970)

The Waltons 1974.JPG

Above: Will Geer (1902 – 1978) and Ellen Corby (1911 – 1999) as Grandpa and Grandma Walton from the television program The Waltons

Ruth Buzzi 1996.jpg

Above: Ruth Buzzi (Rowan & Martin’s Laugh-In)

Ernest Borgnine McHale McHale's Navy 1962.JPG

Above: Ernest Borgnine (1917 – 2012) (Marty / McHale’s Navy)

Ford in 1957

Above: Tennessee Ernie Ford (1919 – 1991) (“Sixteen Tons“)

Tammy Wynette in 1971

Above: Tammy Wynette (1942 – 1998) (“Stand by Your Man“)

Newsweek | November 14, 1977 at Wolfgang's

Above: Billy Carter (President Jimmy Carter’s brother) (1937 – 1988)

Above: Johnny Cash (1932 – 2003) (“I Walk the Line” / “Ring the Fire” / “A Boy named Sue” / “Hurt“)

Where, oh, where, are you tonight?

Why did you leave me here all alone?

I searched the world over and thought I found true love.

You met another and Pfft!, you were gone!

Hee Haw Tribute Page

Whenever I am determined to torture my wife (ah, the perks of marriage!) I break out my most off-key rendition of this song that I can.

Gordie would have been proud.

WATCH: Talented man makes cute and funny videos that annoy his girlfriend

Above: Not us, but the sentiment is similar

I think of Burlington and there is a tiny part of me that wants to grab my bags in haste and jump off the train before it pulls out of the station.

But I know this is mere impulse.

I know no one here, I have arranged no overnight accommodation, I am on a tight itinerary.

What seems to me serious and important about Burlington now, will, in future, be forgotten or won’t seem important at all.

A view of Burlington

Above: Burlington by night

I think of the future.

After the train has long left the station, long after those who knew me are they themselves forgotten, will the grandchildren of our grandchildren fly in space or live underground, wear clothes never imagined or return to garbing themselves in trends rediscovered, will life on Earth, even out in the wilds of Aldershot, be bounteously beautiful or will future generations curse us for our complacency in failing to dream beyond ourselves?

Those who come two hundred years beyond the station will they know more than us or less?

Will they despise us for having lived our lives so stupidly, so pointlessly, or will they be grateful for the happiness we built for them?

Perhaps it is best not knowing, best not thinking about.

Perhaps ignorance is better, for at least there is hope.

Tinkle: Ignorance is Bliss|| TeeStory.in

It may be winter, but the act of travel makes me feel as if the entire world is my orchard and the future its harvest.

To London, to London, to London.

Rear End Of A VIA Rail Passenger Train Editorial Stock Image - Image of  passenger, london: 168232369

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Reader’s Digest Explore Canada / Albert & Theresa Moritz, The Oxford Illustrated Literary Guide to Canada / Anton Chekhov, The Cherry Orchard

Canada Slim and the Napanee Sadness

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Sunday 13 December 2020

There is a creative essential I have learned:

Don’t wait until you know the meaning of life to get started.

Meaningoflife.jpg

And there is a secret I have learned:

One day a famous artist, who was much younger than he is now, picked up a call from a collector who had acquired one of his early paintings on the secondary market.

Having kept the work in storage ever since, the collector only recently discovered that there was a small area of cracked paint in the corner of the canvas, which did not look so good.

Before returning the painting to storage, the collector thought he would contact the artist and ask him whether, for a modest fee, he would repair the damage.

The artist said yes.

Treasures We Never See - How Much Art is Hidden Away in Museums Storage ? |  Widewalls

A few days later, the painting arrived at the artist’s studio.

Still in its wooden packing crate, the art handlers heaved the large-format painting up against a wall and removed the front panel so the painting faced outwards and could be worked on.

9 Famous Artists' Studios You Can Visit, from Jackson Pollock to Barbara  Hepworth - Artsy

Looking at the painting, the artist realized two things:

First of all, he didn’t like the work any more.

It was not how he remembered it.

Secondly, in order to repair the damage, the artist decided he might as well rework the entire surface and blend in any cracks, making them less visible.

What to Know About an Artist's Oil Painting Palette -- Part 1 | Teresa  Bernard Oil Paintings

Over the course of the day, he applied layer after layer of fresh paint, turning a monochromatic abstract work into a representative image of a cow in a field.

Not even a good representation.

Bad Cow" Poster by DALTONSCOINS | Redbubble

The next day, the art handlers retunred to the artist’s studio, closed the crate back up again, and the painting – now completely different – was carted off to storage.

Years have since passed and the artist has yet to hear from the collector….

The 3G4G Blog: Shunning mobiles in favour of Landlines

From the blog of Mitch Teemley, Saturday 6 June 2020:

“It is easy to vilify names, faces and images.

Online.

On social media.

In the news – real, fake or a mix of both.

The only way to know the truth is to know someone.

To listen, to learn and to care for them despite what we thought we knew.

May we ignore the sound bites and discover the real, hurting, angry misunderstood people in our midst.

Only then will there be true healing….”

So You've Been Publicly Shamed: Amazon.co.uk: Jon Ronson: 9780330492287:  Books

Kingston to Napanee, Ontario, Canada, Thursday 9 January 2020

The news was not good this day.

  • Islamist militants killed over 25 Nigerian soldiers in an attack on an army base in Tillabéri Region, Niger. 63 militants were also killed in the ensuing shootout.
Niger declares three days of mourning after 89 soldiers killed in attack on  military base - CNN

At least 25 Niger soldiers, 63 'terrorists' killed in attack on army base  in Tillaberi region

  • US, Canadian, British and Iraqi officials said they believed the plane crash near Tehran in which 176 were killed yesterday was likely caused accidentally by an Iranian anti-aircraft missile, while Iran says it was due to “mechanical failure“.
  • The New York Times released a verified video obtained from an Iranian citizen showing the plane being struck by what appeared to be a surface-to-air missile.
  • In a news conference, Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau said it was “too early to draw definitive conclusions” that the downing of the plane was an “act of war”. Trudeau also condemned Iran’s attacks on US bases in Iraq.

UR-PSR (B738) at Ben Gurion Airport.jpg

(On 8 May 2018, the United States withdrew from the Joint Comprehensive Plan of Action (JCPOA) nuclear deal, reinstating sanctions against Iran. 

Iran’s oil production hit a historic low as a result of these sanctions.

Iran Talks Vienna 14 July 2015 (19067069963).jpg

Above: JCPOA Iran nuclear deal agreement in Vienna. From left to right: Foreign ministers/secretaries of state Wang Yi (China), Laurent Fabius (France), Frank-Walter Steinmeier (Germany), Federica Mogherini (EU), Mohammad Javad Zarif (Iran), Philip Hammond (UK), John Kerry (USA)

According to the BBC in April 2019, US sanctions against Iran “led to a sharp downturn in Iran’s economy, pushing the value of its currency to record lows, quadrupling its annual inflation rate, driving away foreign investors, and triggering protests“.

Iranian officials have accused the US of waging hybrid warfare against the country.

Flag of Iran

Above: Flag of Iran

Tensions between Iran and the US escalated in May 2019, with the U.S. deploying more military assets to the Persian Gulf region after receiving intelligence reports of an alleged “campaign” by Iran and its “proxies” to threaten US forces and Strait of Hormuz oil shipping.

US officials cited intelligence reports that included photographs of missiles on dhows and other small boats in the Persian Gulf, supposedly put there by Iranian paramilitary forces.

The US feared the missiles could be fired at its Navy.

File:Emblem of the United States Navy.svg

The US began a buildup of its military presence in the region to deter what it regards as a planned campaign of belligerency by Iran and its non-state allies to attack American forces and interests in the Gulf and Iraq. 

The Popular Mobilization Forces (PMF) and Kata’ib Hezbollah were targeted by US airstrikes, claiming their proxy belligerent role on the orders of Iran.

Hashd Al-Sha'abi flag.svg

Above: Flag of the PMF

Kata'ib Hezbollah logo.svg

Above: Logo of the Kata’ib Hezbollah

In June 2019, Iran shot down an American RQ-4A surveillance drone, sharply increasing tensions and nearly resulting in an armed confrontation.

Global Hawk 1.jpg

 In July 2019, an Iranian oil tanker was seized by Britain in the Strait of Gibraltar on the grounds that it was shipping oil to Syria in violation of EU sanctions.

A satellite image of a narrow strip of water separating two land masses

Above: Strait of Gibraltar (Spain on the left / Morocco on the right looking east to the Mediterranean Sea)

Iran later captured a British oil tanker and its crew members in the Persian Gulf.

A screengrab from Iran’s state-run English-language Press TV showing, according to the source, a foreign oil tanker smuggling fuel in the Gulf

Both Iran and the UK later released the ships.

Meanwhile, the US created the International Maritime Security Council (IMSC), which sought to increase “overall surveillance and security in key waterways in the Middle East“, according to the US Department of Defense.

International Maritime Security Construct Logo (Transparent).png

United States Department of Defense Seal.svg

The crisis escalated in late 2019 and early 2020 when members of the Kata’ib Hezbollah militia, which is part of Iraq’s Popular Mobilization Forces, allegedly killed an American contractor in an attack on an Iraqi base hosting American personnel.

In retaliation, the US conducted airstrikes against Kata’ib Hezbollah’s facilities in Iraq and Syria, killing 25 militiamen.

Kata’ib Hezbollah responded with an attack on the US Embassy in Baghdad, which prompted the US to deploy hundreds of new troops to the Middle East and announce that it would preemptively target Iran’s “proxies” in Iraq.

2019 attack on the United States embassy in Iraq 03.jpg

Days later, the commander of IRGC’s Ouds Force Oasem Soleimani and PMF commander Abu Mahdi al-Muhandis were both killed in a US drone strike, resulting in Iran’s Supreme Leader Ali Khamenei pledging to exact revenge on US forces.

The US deployed nearly 4,000 troops in response to the tensions and Israel heightened its security levels.

On 5 January 2020, Iran ended its commitments to the nuclear deal and the Iraqi parliament passed a resolution to expel all foreign troops from its territory.

Coat of arms or logo

Above: Coat of arms of Iran

The US and Iran nearly entered into an open conflict on 8 January 2020 when the IRGC launched missile attacks against two US / Iraqi military bases housing US soldiers in retaliation for the killing of Soleimani, a rare direct Iran–U.S. confrontation and the closest to the brink of war between the two nations in decades.

Upon initial assessments of no US casualties, the Trump administration curtailed tensions by temporarily ruling out a direct military response but announcing new sanctions.

It was later revealed that more than a hundred US troops sustained injuries during the attacks.

Ain al-Assad air base, 8 jan 2020.png

Above: Satellite image, showing the damage to at least five structures at Ain al-Assad air base in Iraq in a series of precision missile strikes launched by Iran

During the crisis, Ukraine International Airlines Flight 752 was shot down after departing from Tehran Imam Khomeini International Airport.)

  • A bus crashed in Iran’s Mazandaran Province, killing at least 20 passnegers and injuring 24 others.
According to a May 2017 report by the Tehran-based newspaper Financial Tribune, over 20,000 people are killed and 800,000 injured annually in road accidents in Iran [File: Abedin Taherkenareh/EPA]

Above: According to a May 2017 report by the Tehran-based newspaper Financial Tribune, over 20,000 people are killed and 800,000 injured annually in road accidents in Iran

  • Judge Ghassan Ouiedat, a Lebanese prosecutor, imposed a travel ban on former Chairman of Nissan Carlos Ghosn after he was summoned over an Interpol warrant issued by Japan seeking his arrest on financial misconduct charges.
Carlos Ghosn 2010.jpg

Above. Carlos Ghosn

  • The UK House of Commons voted 330 – 231 to pass the Withdrawl Agreement Bill authorizing Britain’s departure from the EU at the end of January 2020.

UK location in the EU 2016.svg

Are we on the brink of another war?

Is Ghosan innocent as he claims or a thief and a fraud as he is accused?

Is Britain going to continue with its insane decision to leave the EU?

Lots of questions fill my mind as the train pulls into Kingston’s VIA Rail station in the Cataraqui suburban area.

The station is staffed, with ticket sales, baggage check, snack bar, vending machines, telephones, washrooms, and wheelchair access to the station and trains.

There are two tracks, one of which is accessed through a tunnel.

Short-term and long-term parking is available on the east side of the station.

A taxi stand is located on the north side of the station.

At the platform Big J S, Queen V S and cabbie A are waiting.

A (a friend of the S family) is not there to drive me to Napanee, but she is working the station today.

The Napanee sadness has begun and I am not even in Napanee as yet.

Kingston Station ON CLIP.jpg

A is one of those people in my life that I must accept because those I know more intimately accept them.

I think everyone has folks like A in their lives and I am sure that I am like A as other people see me.

I never know how to respond to A, for truth be told A is a bit too plebian for my liking.

She speaks her mind, her opinions are fixed and she does not belong in my life any more than a goat belongs in a banquet hall.

But I say nothing of this to A, Big J or Queen V, for A is good-hearted despite her manner.

I feel the Napanee sadness, which is that feeling of not belonging to the place where I am, despite the longing to fit in.

Dundas street

Above: Dundas Street, Napanee

We drive into Kingston to pick up Princess K S (Big J and Queen V‘s only child) at the apartment she shares with a roommate and K‘s cat.

The apartment is a dark, dank disaster zone of dirt and decay, feline feces, feminine frenzy and chaotic clutter.

Why Kingston has declared a climate emergency — and what that really means

I look at the Family S and I am saddened.

Big J is age-weary, Queen V is frumpy, Princess K tragic.

They once again strike me as a sad and sorry travesty of lost potential.

But I wonder are they truly as I see them or am I putting my own doubts and fears upon them unjustifiably?

Either way I feel that I have stumbled into a pathetic purgatory of lost souls seeking salvation.

You look like… a perfect fit,
For a girl in need… of a tourniquet.
But can you save me?
Come on and save me…
If you could save me,
From the ranks of the freaks,
Who suspect they could never love anyone.

Aimee Mann - Save Me - Amazon.com Music

‘Cause I can tell… you know what it’s like.
A long farewell… of the hunger strike.
But can you save me?
Come on and save me…
If you could save me,
From the ranks of the freaks,
Who suspect they could never love anyone.

Aimee Mann - "Save Me" video from Magnolia - YouTube

You struck me dumb, like radium
Like Peter Pan, or Superman,
You have come… to save me.
Come on and save me…
If you could save me,
From the ranks of the freaks,
Who suspect they could never love anyone,
Except the freaks,
Who suspect they could never love anyone,
But the freaks,
Who suspect they could never love anyone.

Music Video Friday: Aimee Mann – Save Me (1999 Oscar Nominee) | Cinema  Parrot Disco

Come on and save me…
Why don’t you save me?
If you could save me,
From the ranks of the freaks,
Who suspect they could never love anyone,
Except the freaks,
Who suspect they could never love anyone,
Except the freaks,
Who could never love anyone.

Cult Film Wallpapers: Moon in the Gutter Wallpapers: Aimee Mann in Paul  Thomas Anderson's "Save Me" (From Magnolia)

I want to love this family whom I have known for much of my life (and certainly Princess K‘s life).

I feel I want to help and yet I am held back by an inner voice that cautions me not to judge others, not to tell others how to live their lives by my standards.

K‘s cat M is pushed into a cat carrier which she (the cat) does not like.

Amazon.com : petisfam Top Load Cat Carrier for Medium Cats, Collapsible and  Escape Proof : Pet Supplies

The car faithfully ferries us out of town along King’s Highway #2.

King’s Highway 2, commonly referred to as Highway 2, is the lowest-numbered provincially maintained highway in Ontario (there is no numbered Ontario Highway 1) and was originally part of a series of identically numbered highways in multiple provinces which together once joined Windsor, Ontario to Halifax, Nova Scotia. 

Formerly the primary east–west route across the southern portion of Ontario, most of Highway 2 in Ontario was bypassed by Ontario Highway 401, completed in 1968.

Virtually all of the 837.4 km (520.3 mi) length of Highway 2 was deemed a local route and removed from the provincial highway system on 1 January 1998, with the exception of a 1-kilometre (0.62 mi) section east of Gananoque.

The entire route remains driveable, but as County Road 2 or County Highway 2 in most regions.

Highway 2 shield

County Road 2 takes us through Loyalist Township and the towns of Odessa and Ernestown.

Odessa, originally named Millcreek, was renamed in 1855 by its postmaster to commemorate the 1854 British siege of the Black Sea port at Odessa in the Ukraine during the Crimean War (1853 – 1856). 

Counterclockwise: Monument to the Duc de Richelieu, Vorontsov Lighthouse, City garden, Opera and Ballet Theatre, Potemkin Stairs, Square de Richelieu

Above: Images of Odessa, Ukraine

The village is home to Ernestown Secondary School, which services about 650 students from Loyalist Township (formerly Ernestown Township), Napanee and Stone Mills.

ESS

Ernestown Secondary School (ESS) is a Canadian public, comprehensive school located in Odessa.

The school services about 450 students from Loyalist Township, Napanee and Stone Mills.

The town is in the eastern Ontario county of Lennox and Addington approximately 24 kilometers west of the city of Kingston.

The school offers classes for students in grades nine through twelve and is a member school of the Limestone District School Board.

The school motto at ESS is Amor Doctrinae Floreat (Let the love of learning flourish.)

Home - Ernestown Secondary School

Above: Ernestown Secondary School

As we drive through Odessa, I think of how similar-looking this school is to Laurentian Regional High School where I did my secondary studies in Lachute, Québec.

Both were built in the 1960s and one almost wonders if they were designed and built by the same architect.

Sir Wilfrid Laurier School Board

My thoughts turn to Tenerife (one of the Canary Islands) and ESS alumni Aaron René Doornekamp, born in Napanee of Dutch heritage.

Doornekamp is a professional basketball player for Iberostar Tenerife of the Liga ACB.

Aaron Doornekamp 42 Valencia Basket EuroLeague 20180201.jpg

He was one of the greatest players in the history of the Carleton University Ravens men’s college basketball team (2004 – 2009). 

Logo

Above: Logo of the Carleton Ravens

(In men’s basketball, the Ravens have won 15 of the last 18 national men’s championships, more than any top division college in Canada or the United States.

The Ravens went on an 87-game winning streak from 2003 to 2006.

They also had a 54-game home winning streak.

The Ravens finished 2nd in the World University Basketball Championships in 2004.)

Doornekamp is also a member of the senior Canadian men’s national team.

Canada Basketball logo.svg

At a height of 2.01 m (6 ft 7 in) tall, he can play at both the small forward and power forward positions, with power forward being his main position.

I wonder:

Had my folks been not so stingy with letting me join the basketball team in Lachute (10 km away from where we lived in Marelan, which meant having to pick me up by car and fuel costs money) would I have had a sports career as successful as Doornekamp’s?

Like Doornekamp, I too towered over my classmates (6 ft 5 in) and still tower over the heads of many.

Did Doornekamp experience similar emotions to mine in his school years?

Grand Finale! Grande finale! - Laurentian Regional High School Student Info

Above: Logo of my alma mater, Laurentian Regional High School

After finishing his college career, Doornekamp signed his first pro contract in Italy, with Pepsi Caserta (Campagna, Italy – the toe of the boot that is the Italian peninsula). 

He played three years with the club.

Sporting Club JuveCaserta logo

Above: Logo of Pepsi Caserta

While sidelined with injury in the 2012 – 2013 season, Doornekamp was the assistant coach of the McMaster Marauders men’s basketball team.

Logo

Above: Logo of the McMaster Marauders, Hamilton, Ontario

In August 2013, he signed with the New Yorker Phantoms Braunschweig (Germany).

In June 2014, he parted ways with them.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Ny_phantoms_brauns.jpeg

Above: Logo (2006 – 2014)

(New Yorker, despite the American-sounding name, is a German clothing retailer headquartered in Braunschweig that primarily addresses the target group of 12- to 39-year-olds.)

New Yorker logo

On 29 June 2014, he signed with the German club Skyliners of Frankfurt, for the 2014 – 2015 season.

He won the European-wide 3rd-tier level FIBA Europe Cup’s 2015 – 2016 season championship with the team.

Fraport Skyliners logo

In June 2016, Doornekamp left Germany, to sign with the Spanish team Iberostar Tenerife.

He won the Basketball Champions League’s 2016 – 2017 season championship with the team.

He was also named to the BCL Star Lineup Best Team.

Iberostar Tenerife logo

Above: Logo of Iberostar Tenerife

On 27 June 2017, Doornekamp officially opted out of his contract with the Spanish team.

The same day, he signed a two-year contract with Valencia Basket.

On July 8, 2019, Doornekamp re-signed with Valencia Basket for another season.

Valencia Basket logo

He re-signed with Iberostar Tenerife on 15 July 2020.

With Canada’s senior team, he played at the following tournaments:

  • the 2007 Pan American Games (Rio de Janeiro, Brazil)
2007 Pan American Games logo.svg

  • the 2008 FIBA Olympic Qualifying Tournament (Athens, Greece)
FIBAoc08 logo.png

  • the 2009 FIBA Americas Championship (San Juan, Puerto Rico)
FIBA Americas Championship 2009 logo.png

  • the 2010 FIBA World Championship (Istanbul, Turkey)
FIBA 2010 logo.png

  • the 2011 FIBA Americas Championship (Mara del Plata, Argentina)
Ouutv7u7.jpg

  • the 2013 FIBA Americas Championship (Caracas, Venezuela)
2013 FIBA Americas Championship logo.jpg

  • the 2015 Pan American Games, where he won a silver medal (Toronto)
A stylized person with agreen torso and red head with the number 20 on the body, a stylized blue ball with a 15 on it beside the person, PanAm Toronto 2015 written to the left of scene

  • the 2015 FIBA Americas Championship, where he won a bronze medal (Mexico City)
2015 FIBA Americas Championship logo.jpg

Doornekamp was married on 13 July 2013, in Burlington, Ontario, to Jasmyn Richardson.

The couple has two children.

Brant Street in Downtown Burlington

Above: Brant Street, Burlington, Ontario

I wonder:

Beyond height, would Doornekamp and I have much in common to talk about if our paths ever crossed?

Is Doornekamp’s home in Tenerife filled with trophies and medals and memorablia of past athletic achievements like my sprinter cousin’s home?

How must it be for Jasmyn and their children?

File:Sports Trophies for inter-house sporting competition held in  Annunciation Secondary School.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

Another ESS alumni is Adnan Virk, a Canadian sportscaster for MLB Network and DAZN. 

He previously worked for ESPN and TSN.

Adnan Virk was fired from ESPN after a leak investigation. Now he's  starting over. - The Washington Post

Virk also produces and hosts the weekly podcast Cinephile with Adnan Virk show covering cinema news and interviews with entertainment celebrities, as well as co-hosts the football podcast The GM Shuffle with former NFL executive Michael Lombardi.

Cinephile with Adnan Virk on Stitcher

The GM Shuffle with Michael Lombardi & Adnan Virk | Cadence13

Virk was born in Toronto to Zakaria and Taherah Virk, who immigrated to Canada from Pakistan.

In 1984 the family relocated to Kingston, then in 1989 to Morven, a small town just outside Kingston, where his parents owned and operated a gas station and Zack’s Variety store. 

After graduating from Ernestown Secondary School, where he played basketball and soccer, Virk studied Radio and Television Arts at Ryerson University in Toronto.

Ryerson University Crest.png

Above: Logo of Ryerson University

From 2003 to 2009, Virk hosted several programs on The Score and was an associate producer for Sportscentre at TSN.

Above: Logo of the Score (2002 – 2013)

SportsCentre TSN logo.svg

He was also the co-host of Omniculture and Bollywood Boulevard at Omni Television.

Omniculture Communications | LinkedIn

Bollywood Blvd. (TV Series 1997– ) - IMDb

In 2009, he joined Maple Leafs Sports and Entertainment (MLSE) as a host and reporter for Raptors TV, Leafs TV and Gol TV Canada.

MLSE logo 2014.png

In April 2010, Virk joined the ESPN family of stations in Bristol, Connecticut.

ESPN wordmark.svg

After joining ESPN, he became one of three main anchors for Baseball Tonight.

During 2014 spring training, he began calling play-by-play for an ESPN affiliate.

ESPN Baseball Tonight logo 2018.jpg

In the baseball off-season, he hosted SportsCenter and Outside the Lines.

Outside The Lines logo.png

He would also fill in for Keith Olbermann on Olbermann.

Keith Olbermann - small.jpg

Above: Keith Olbermann

He was the host of a movie podcast Cinephile on ESPN. 

Pakistani-origin sports host Adnan Virk fired by ESPN | News India Times

In addition, he was also the main studio host for ESPN College Football and also hosted College Football Final.

On 3 February 2019, Virk was fired following an investigation regarding leaks of ESPN information to the media.

Virk and ESPN later agreed not to pursue litigation against each other.

In March 2019, it was announced that Virk would host the new MLB studio program ChangeUp for DAZN, a subscription streaming media service based in London.

SN exclusive: Adnan Virk on 'ChangeUp,' adding fun in baseball coverage,  and 'Captain Marvel' | Sporting News

In addition, Virk appears on MLB Network. 

MLBNetworkLogo.svg

He also hosts boxing events.

Virk was born to a Pakistani Canadian Ahmadi Muslim family and considers himself a practicing Muslim.

He lives in New Jersey with his wife Eamon, whom he married in 2007.

They have four sons.

Adnan Virk to host DAZN's new MLB show 'ChangeUp' | Arabia Day

ESS has spawned not only athletes or those who cover athletic performance, but as well Gord Downie (1964 – 2017) of the Tragically Hip, and Brett Emmons of the Glorious Sons were alumni of this school in the middle of Nowhere.

(The Tragically Hip’s final tour’s final concert was held at the Rogers K-Rock Centre in Kingston, on 20 August 2016, and was broadcast and streamed live by the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (CBC) on television, radio and on the Internet.

It was viewed by an estimated 11.7 million people.

Even I, living in distant Switzerland, heard about this final concert and the demise of Downie to brain cancer on 17 October 2017.)

Above: Gord Downie, 2013

Union - The Glorious Sons.jpg

Thoughts of Doornekamp and Virk, Downie and Emmons, remind me that a person can rise above their origins no matter how humble the start.

The township offices and fire hall on Odessa’s Main Street do not suggest fame and fortune nor do they whisper much of a world far beyond Loyalist Township.

There is nothing to my Canadian eyes in Odessa, Ontario, that suggests the exotic.

The quiet streets of Odessa do not feel pregnant with promise.

Above: Odessa’s Main Street

There is a small fairground.

An Ontario Provincial Police detachment serves Highway 401 and home to the Tactics and Rescue Unit of Eastern Ontario.

Shoulder flash of the OPP

The water supply of the community of Odessa within the Township of Ernestown was studied in 1972, which led to the planning of infrastructure improvements.

The highest point in the village is the water tower.

Visible for several kilometres in all directions, the water tower has been outfitted as a wireless communications facility.

Canada's Water Towers — Loyalist Odessa Water Tower Odessa, Loyalist...

The village bills itself as “home of the Babcock Mill“, which historically was powered by Millhaven Creek which runs through the heart of Odessa.

The Babcock Mill planing mill and basket factory is the last standing mill, of three, at this Odessa historical site.

Known for its “Babcock baskets”, you can see where John Babcock’s designed and patented basket-making machinery in the early 1900s.

Built in 1856, this historical three-mill site once included a woolen mill (on Factory Street) and a saw mill.

Babcock Mill

 Above. Babcock Mill

Napanee is a town of nearly 16,000 people, but it feels smaller than that stat.

Napanee is approximately 45 kilometres (28 mi) west of Kingston and is the county seat of Lennox and Addington County.

Location of Lennox and Addington County

It is located on the eastern end of the Bay of Quinte,  a long, narrow bay shaped like the letter “Z” on the northern shore of Lake Ontario.

The Bay, as it is known locally, provides some of the best trophy walleye angling in North America, as well as most sport fish common to the Great Lakes.

The bay is subject to algal blooms in late summer. 

Zebra mussels as well as the other invasive species found in the Great Lakes are present.

Dreissena polymorpha.jpg

The Quinte area played a vital role in bootlegging during Prohibition in the United States, with large volumes of liquor being produced in the area, and shipped via boat on the bay to Lake Ontario finally arriving in New York State where it was distributed.

Illegal sales of liquor accounted for many fortunes in and around Belleville.

Tourism in the area is significant, especially in the summer months due to the Bay of Quinte and its fishing, local golf courses, provincial parks, and wineries.

The first recorded settlement in the area of Greater Napanee is Ganneious, an Iroquois village, settled temporarily by the Oneida from 1660 to 1690.

The village was located on or near the Hay Bay area and is one of seven Iroquois villages settled on the northern shores of Lake Ontario in the 17th century.

The exact location of the village has not been determined.

Iroquois Settlement at Fort Frontenac in the Seventeenth and Early  Eighteenth Centuries

The area was settled by Loyalists (Americans during the American Revolution who did not wish to stop being British subjects) in 1784.

Napanee was first incorporated in 1854.

The first Loyalists settlers arrived at Adolphustown on 15 June 1784.

Their landing spot and site of the first Loyalist cemetery in the area has been preserved by the Loyalists.

UELAC.org - Loyalist Monuments - Loyalist Landing Place Plaque –  Adolphustown, Ontario

Napanee developed at the site of a waterfall, the head of navigation, on the Napanee River, where early industry could utilize the power potential of the River.

Napanee Falls

Above: Napanee Falls

The River (25 km / 15 miles long) transported logs from the interior north (up past the village of Colebrook) of the town. 

Sawmilling, gristmilling and other farm service industries were established.

Napanee was first known as Clarksville after Robert Clark, who built a grist mill there.

THE NAPANEE MILLS" - Napanee - Ontario Provincial Plaques on Waymarking.com

Sir John A. Macdonald, Canada’s first prime minister, practised law in Napanee.

Photograph of Macdonald circa 1875 by George Lancefield.

Above: Sir John A. Macdonald (1815 – 1891)

Napanee’s downtown core (along Dundas Street) is also lined with historical buildings dating back to the 1800s.

The Town of Greater Napanee’s Self-Guided Historic Walking Tour provides locations and information on these sites as well as other historical locations nearby.

NAPANEE , Ontario , Canada , 1930s ; Dundas Street | eBay

Rural Routes - Town of Greater Napanee (Lower Tier Lennox and Addington)

At 180 Elizabeth Street, the visitor can find a ball of wood fiber paper.

This ball at the Allan Macpherson House (Lennox and Addington Museum) was preserved by John Thomson after his first successful attempt to duplicate the wood pulp process he had learned in the United States before settling here.

In 1872, on the Napanee River, Thomson built the first mill in Ontario designed to make paper from wood pulp only.

JOHN THOMSON 1837-1920" ~ Newburgh - Ontario Provincial Plaques on  Waymarking.com

The E-History Project Project -- Towns & Industry -- John Thomson's Silver  Tea Urn

Also in the Museum is a British army lieutenant’s account of a 1784 trip up the St. Lawrence River from Sillery (near Québec City) with Napanee’s first white settlers, a group of Loyalists.

St_Lawrence_Seaway_2019 | Go Next

The Museum is a many-windowed Georgian mansion built in 1826, reflecting the affluence of its original owner, Allan Macpherson, the town’s first industrialist.

Furniture includes a Regency couch and a Sheridan love seat, both dating from 1830.

Allan Macpherson House | Adventures In Mountain Time

Above: Interior of the Macpherson House

Half-cousin to first Canadian Prime Minister Sir John A. Macdonald, Allan Macpherson operated the grist and saw mills at Napanee Falls starting in 1818.

For almost three decades, Macpherson was one of Lennox and Addington’s most civic-minded and politically active entrepreneurs.

He created fine-quality flour shipped to Montreal and England and became Postmaster at Napanee in 1820. 

Macpherson’s gentry-inspired house, built north of Napanee Falls, remained in the family until 1896, long after he had returned to Kingston.

Allan Macpherson House - Napanee, ON - History Museums on Waymarking.com

Macpherson House, Napanee. illustration... - Vintage Kingston | Facebook

In 1962, the Lennox and Addington Historical Society began a visionary labour of love to restore this home to its 19th century character.

True to its roots, the Macpherson House has been restored to its original splendour both inside and out. 

The Macpherson House now functions as additional gallery space for the Lennox & Addington Museum and Archives.

Macpherson House new_0.JPG

Above: Allan Macpherson House (Lennox & Addington County Museum and Archives)

Two blocks away is a privately owned house that was the Red Tavern, built in 1810.

Dundas street

The white-columned town hall dates from 1856, the courthouse from 1864.

Parks Canada - Napanee Town Hall National Historic Site of Canada

Above: Napanee Town Hall

Lennox and Addington Counties | US Courthouses

Above: Lexington & Addington County Courthouse, Napanee

Gibbard’s, the oldest furniture factory in Ontario, has operated since 1835.

Former Gibbard employee crafts reunion plan

For over 180 years, the Gibbard Furniture Factory has been an iconic landmark in Napanee.

It’s a focal point for the town that’s rich in history.

Honouring this legacy, it has been transformed into a highly anticipated waterfront community where contemporary amenities enhance the charm of small-town simplicity.

With retail opportunities and a platform for local gatherings, Gibbard District is more than a residential space where every suite is just steps away from a private kayak dock.

It’s a vibrant hub for families, friends, and neighbours, one where they can share the moments that make lasting memories.

Built on a historic foundation, Gibbard District is a local destination that will inject energy and opportunity into Napanee.

A developer has unveiled a bold vision to redevelop the former Gibbard's  Furniture Store in Napanee. | Watch News Videos Online

Above: Gibbard’s District

Napanee unfortunately shares the fate of far too many towns in Ontario.

Step away from its historic quarters and you find yourself in zones of shopping malls and fast food joints, gas stations and repair garages.

The S Family lives just beyond this zone.

We have burritos at a Quesadas before heading to their trailer home.

Daredevil by Joe Quesada : Daredevil

(Does Napanee have a local dish?)

J and V and K and I share a common problem of being heavier than we should be.

We also share the seductive sorrow of turning to things that help us only if we allow them to.

We are unwell each in our own way.

Unwell.jpg

We fear that which we cannot define.

For V and K it is the uncertainty of the unknown.

I fear familarity and the fetters that fealty forces upon its followers.

K‘s phobias are more real than reality.

K is unmotivated to change her clothes, to change her ways.

Her fears paralyze her.

For J it is the fear of not being of use.

J needs to be needed and he has always remained the loyal servant in their Majesties’ service.

On Her Majesty's Secret Service-Ian Fleming.jpg

J is nearly 20 years my senior, V is 14 years older than I, K is a little over half my age.

And yet J still caters to V and K, when he is at an age and body condition that suggests he should finally be the one who is pampered.

I understand J only too well.

I will surrender to aging only when I am physically incapacitated and unwell to fend and fetch for myself.

Neither J nor I plan to exit life without a struggle.

But I see the tolls of age upon his face and frame and in his movements.

do not go gentle into that good night ~ rage, rage against the dying of the  light | Words, Dying of the light, Good night love messages

Problem is he has been of such use, such utility, that I fear that their Majesties may find themselves unable to function without him should J fall and not rise again.

His love for his ladies is too great in that their reliance on him has diminished their abilities to become self-reliant.

He is butler, valet and chauffeur.

He lifts the heavy objects, he does the dirty deeds, he is man about the house.

He remains through his pension the breadwinner of this collective.

I have always been impressed by J’s quiet strength, his unending devotion to the damsels that are his destiny.

I have always marvelled at men who presevere despite every incentive to quit.

Remains of the day.jpg

J is Endicott.

Endicott’s up by 5 o’clock
Endicott’s givin’ it all he got
Endicott’s job is six to nine but
Endicott’s home by nine O five
Endicott helps to cook the steak
Endicott helps to wash the plates
Endicott puts the kids to bed
Endicott reads a book to them

(Why can’t you be like Endicott?)

Kid Creole And The Coconuts - Endicott (1985, Vinyl) | Discogs

Endicott loves Tribena sole
Endicott puts her on a pedestal
Endicott’s wish is her command but
Endicott don’t make no demands
Endicott’s always back in time
Endicott’s not the cheatin’ kind
Endicott’s full of compliment
Endicott’s such a gentleman

(Why can’t you be like Endicott?)

Endicott - Kid Creole and the Coconuts - YouTube

Cause I’m free
Free of any made-to-order liabilities
Thank God I’m free
Cos it’s hard enough for me
To take care of me, oh-oh

Endicott’s carryin’ a heavy load
Endicott never really ever moans
Endicott’s not a wealthy guy but
Endicott pays the bills on time
Endicott’s got ideas and plans
Endicott’s what you call a real man
Endicott always will provide ’cause
Endicott is the family type

(Why can’t you be like Endicott?)

Kid Creole & The Coconuts - Stool Pigeon (1982) [videoclip] - YouTube

Cause I’m free
Freer than a pirate on a frigate out at sea
Thank God I’m free
Driftin’ all around just like a tumbleweed, oh-oh

Maybe I need me someone
Someone who isn’t undone
Maybe an older woman
Will tolerate me
Maybe that certain someone
Older and wiser woman
Maybe the perfect someone
To satisfy me

Kid Creole & The Coconuts - Endicott ( german TV - 1985 ) - YouTube

Endicott keeps his body clean
Endicott don’t use nicotine
Endicott don’t drink alcohol
Endicott use no drug at all
Endicott don’t eat any sweet
Endicott don’t eat piggy feet
Endicott’s frame is mighty strong
Endicott make love hard and long

(Why can’t you be like Endicott?)

Kid+Creole+&+The+Coconuts-+In+Praise+Of+Older+Women.jpg

Endicott loves Tribena sole
Endicott walks her to the sto’
Endicott likes to hold her hand
Endicott’s proud to be her man
Endicott stands for decency
Endicott means formality
Endicott’s the epitome
Endicott stands for quality

Endicott by Kid Creole & The Coconuts (Single; Sire; W8959P): Reviews,  Ratings, Credits, Song list - Rate Your Music

Endicott
Endicott
Endicott
Endicott

I’ll never be, I’ll never be like Endicott

Said I’m not.

I’ll never be, I’ll never be like Endicott.

No Endicott in me.

SD > Kid Creole & The Coconuts - Endicott [TG] [1985]

There are three things (and three fingers pointing back at myself) men need to understand if they are to get it right with women:

  1. Standing up to your wife or partner as an equal without intimidating her or being intimidated by her.
  2. Knowing the essential differences in male and female sexuality and so mastering the art of the chase
  3. Realizing she is not your mother and so making it through the long dark night

Most modern men, myself included, when faced with their wife’s anger, complaints or general unhappiness, simply submit, mumble an apology and tiptoe away.

(Which, of course, is still preferable to being the kind of man who handles his differences with violence and intimidation.)

If most modern men grumble, they do so into their beards.

For the most part we act conciliatory and apologize for being such dopes.

I’m sorry, dear!

Yes, She Who Must Be Obeyed!

SHE, A History of Adventure (1st Edition Cover), by H. Rider Haggard.jpg

Everywhere, you look around,the “husband as a lovable dope” is an agreed-upon type.

But real life doesn’t work like the comics, TV shows or movies.

Millions of men who adopt this stance find that it rarely, if ever leads, to her happiness or his.

Women with dopey husbands are not happy.

Actually they become more dissatisfied, more complaining.

Dagwood Comics.jpg

Some psychologists suggest that, often without even realizing why, the henpecking behaviour escalates – for a simple reason.

Deep down, they say, women want to be met by someone strong, as strong as many of them have to be outside the relationship.

They want to be debated with, not just agreed with, for they are not always right (despite what they may say or think).

(To be fair, they are often right.)

Funny Home Decor Sign Men To The Left Because Women Are Always Right 12" x  12" | eBay

Women hunger for men who can take the initiative sometimes, make some decisions, tell them when they are not making sense.

It’s no fun being the only adult in the room.

How can a woman relax or feel safe, when the man she is teamed with pretends to be weaker and softer than he can be, just for the sake of peace and harmony between them?

So many strong, capable women who once they finally find the sensitive, caring New Age man they thought they wanted now find themselves bored stiff with his complacency.

Bedazzled movie - Posts | Facebook

Above: Scene from Bedazzled, where Elliot Richards (Brendon Fraser) is rejected by Alison Gardner (Frances O’Connor) for being too sensitive

So many decent men are able to say to their women:

I feel your pain.

I consider your life as important as mine.

I will take care of you and comfort you.”

So many men give so much of themselves to their relationships and in the process lose the self that she fell in love with.

They can no longer say what they want and stick to it.

It is that sense of resolve that drew her to him.

It is that sense of resolve he sold out for peace with her.

Superman with his cape billowing

One of the things that marks out a mature man versus a male still not there is the discovery that women are as human as men.

Sometimes they are dead right and sometimes completely wrong.

Women are not devils (though they certainly have their moments) nor angels (despite how angelic they may appear, despite how divine they look).

They are mere normal, fallible human beings.

Movie poster for Weird Science (1985).jpg

Being married means a man must keep his head on straight.

So many men just drift along and let women decide everything.

Marriage is not an excuse to stop thinking.

upright=upright=1.4

A woman can be as wrong, as immature, as perverse, as prejudiced, as competitive, or as bloody-minded as any man can.

Sometimes a man and a woman will see things differently because men and women are different.

What is right for her may often be wrong for him and vice versa.

Women often don’t understand men,

(Hell, often we of either gender don’t understand ourselves.)

He said she said.jpg

You have to keep negotiating, for avoidance will not bring harmony.

To have a happy relationship, a man has to be able to state his point of view, to debate, to leave aside hysteria, to push on until something has been resolved.

4,015 Man Giving Speech Stock Photos, Pictures & Royalty-Free Images -  iStock

To be fair, it is frightening to find strength, to speak up for oneself knowing that this may lead to confrontation with someone you fear losing.

But all that is gained by retreat or automatic compliance she that she enjoys having the upper hand and being able to manipulate her man into doing what she wants, until this becomes so facile that it becomes boring to her and futile for him.

White Flag Dido.jpg

It is not that a woman wishes a man harm (well, not always) it is just that boundaries need to be set in regards to what to what she can or cannot do regarding what is his responsibility to himself.

Often it is enough to say:

Hey, you are crowding me.

Don’t make up my mind for me.

Let me choose my own clothes.

(Good luck with that last one, lads!)

Prince Phillip vs. Prince Phillip? – Small Town Dreamer

When my King is weak, I ask my wife or children what is the right thing to do.

I have had strange adventures in buying sweaters.” (Robert Bly)

Iron John.jpg

It is a mistake to think that a perfect marriage is harmonious, sweet and loving.

If a couple is happy 100% of the time, chances are someone is lying,

The passionate, heated European-style marriage has more going for it.

Carl Jung said:

American marriages are the saddest in the whole world, because the man does all his fighting at the office.”

ETH-BIB-Jung, Carl Gustav (1875-1961)-Portrait-Portr 14163 (cropped).tif

Above: Carl Jung (1875 – 1961)

Conscious fighting is a great help in relationships between men and women.

When a man and a woman are standing toe-to-toe arguing, what is it that the man wants?

Often he does not know.

He wants the conflict to end, because he is afraid, because he does not know how to fight, because he “doesn’t believe in fighting“, because his boundaries are so poorly maintained that every sword thrust penetrates to very centre of his soul.

Men are afraid because they sense that both men and women have the capacity for blind rage which achieves nothing.

I have had it with men!“, she says.

Women!“, he cries, “Can’t live with them, can’t live without them!

Such frustration, to need someone so much and yet…..

All men hate all women some of the time and all women hate all men some of the time.

There is a long history of male-bashing by women and female-bashing by men.

But boundaries must be set to ensure that this hate is not more than is deserved.

Main eventposter.jpg

We must fight, debate and be true to ourselves, otherwise our closeness is merely an act.

But in fighting, we must show great restraint and respect for one another.

Laws Of Attraction Movie Trailer, Reviews and More | TV Guide

Above: Audrey Woods (Julianne Moore) / Daniel Rafferty (Pierce Brosnan), Laws of Attraction (2004)

And it is here where the outsider to someone else’s relationship knows not how to react.

I judge the Family S by my own standards.

I don’t see them as they may see themselves.

I see them as I wish they were, not as they are.

I see the present moment, not the events that led them here.

I feel that their situation is sad.

Too much TV watching, too much game playing, too little reading, too little exercise, lives unlived.

I find myself repulsed, for I see this potential in myself and I silently scream against this.

It's not an "S". On my world, it means hope. | Superman quotes, Superman  movies, Superhero quotes

The trailer home is small and I am relegated to a fold-out sofa within a space cluttered by the unnecessary stuff that people eagerly collect, more to possess than to have permanent purpose.

K‘s cat does not seek my company.

V‘s cat and I share the warmth of the sofa bed.

No words are needed between us.

The cat demands nothing from me but respect and restraint.

I expect the same from the cat.

It is peace in our time and a silent night.

Cat poster 1.jpg

I read the Napanee Beaver, hoping it will distract me from my depression.

SERVING LENNOX AND ADDINGTON COUNTY AND AREA SINCE 1870. LOCALLY OWNED –  PROUDLY INDEPENDENT

I learn that:

  • Saturday 4 January saw Napanee’s first major snowfall of 2020
Frosty Friend

  • a fellow named Ernie will celebrate his 90th birthday in ten days’ time
90th Birthday – Ernie Pennell

  • Greater Napanee water rates could rise by 2.1% this year
Greater Napanee water rates could rise 2.1 per cent in 2020

  • bus charters and Thai massages and financial advice and all manner of goods and services are available in Napanee

  • the Napanee roller-rink celebrated its grand opening on Friday 3 January in the old arena
Napanee roller-rink celebrates grand opening in old arena

  • Life Labs experienced a cyber-attack, YOUR information is out there!
LifeLabs free credit monitoring offer has customers concerned about further  data breaches | CTV News

  • there are church services this week at 16 different churches for one God only, pick your own road to redemption
Church Services

  • opinions are expressed that women’s hockey does not get the same amount of respect as men’s hockey
Napanee Beaver - Hawks hockey girls repeat as KASSAA... | Facebook

  • Drew Daywalt’s My Tooth Is Lost and Cassandra Clare’s Ghosts of the Shadow Market and John E. Douglas’ The Killer Across the Table and Julie Andrews’ Home Work: A Memoir of my Hollywood Years and Jojo Moyes’ The Giver of Stars are well worth a read (according to the county’s friendly librarians)
My Tooth Is Lost! : Drew Daywalt : 9781338143881

Amazon.com: Ghosts of the Shadow Market (9781534433625): Clare, Cassandra,  Rees Brennan, Sarah, Johnson, Maureen, Link, Kelly, Wasserman, Robin: Books

The Killer Across the Table: Unlocking the Secrets of Serial Killers and  Predators with the FBI's Original Mindhunter - Kindle edition by Douglas, John  E., Olshaker, Mark. Politics & Social Sciences Kindle

Home Work: A Memoir of My Hollywood Years: Andrews, Julie, Hamilton, Emma  Walton: 9780316349253: Amazon.com: Books

The Giver of Stars: Fall in love with the enchanting 2020 Sunday Times  bestseller from the author of Me Before You: Amazon.co.uk: Moyes, Jojo:  9780718183202: Books

  • eight public notices indicate that the town hall is still functioning in 2020
  • 42 properties are available to purchase NOW
  • hockey deserves at least four articles in a weekly newspaper (This is Canada, after all, eh?)
  • the Lennox Community Theatre is holding auditions (The Dixie Swim Club)
Lennox Community Theatre - Events | Facebook

  • the Lennox Agricultural Society is holding its annual meeting (I wonder what they could possibly discuss: “Hey, Joe, how was your harvest on the back forty?“)
Agriculture - Greater Napanee

  • the Ontario SPCA’s Lennox & Addington Branch in Napanee is ready to spay and neuter your pets (Look at Marlon, a six-year-old domestic shorthair in the cropped photo. I wonder how he feels.)
Ontario SPCA Lennox and Addington Animal Centre - Home | Facebook

  • scooters, firewood, new and used appliances, barn repairs, livestock, boilers, water softeners, dog grooming, cars and trucks, rooms at the retirement home, apartments, real estate, mortgages, firearms courses (What do you want?)
  • five cards of thanks, six memorials, 15 obituaries (and a partridge in a pear tree)
  • the same classified page offers both baby photos and cremations, life and death encapsulated in simplicity

Napanee Beaver September 17, 2015 by The Napanee Beaver - issuu

  • A & W offers teen burgers, chubby chicken burgers, bacon & eggers, mozza burgers, three-strip combos….its own products, its own coupons, its own jargon (How do teenagers and chubby chickens find themselves sacrificed and sandwiched?)
A&W NAPANEE - Restaurant Reviews, Photos & Phone Number - Tripadvisor

  • tours from Kristine Geary’s Fully Escorted Maple Leaf Tours to Myrtle Beach, NYC, Atlantic City, Nashville, Memphis, Cape Cod, DC, Newfoundland, the Caribbean, Alaska, Bermuda, Hawaii and mysteriously the words “Come From Away“, which confuses me…..shouldn’t it be “go away“?
Maple Leaf Tours Inc - Opening Hours - 2937 Princess St, Kingston, ON

The cat purrs and lies across my chest.

Reading rendered impossible.

Lights out.

The purring before the loss of consciousness.

Napanee, Ontario, Friday 10 January 2020

Another sad day in the news and too much time on my hands to read it:

  • After Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau suggested that Ukraine International Airlines Flight 752 was downed by an Iranian missile, Iranian authorities rejected this theory.

At a news conference on Friday, Iran’s Civil Aviation Organisation (CAOI) chief Ali Abedzadeh repeated his view that a missile was not the cause of the crash.

The thing that is clear to us and that we can say with certainty is that this plane was not hit by a missile,” he told reporters.

As I said last night, this plane for more than one and a half minutes was on fire and was in the air, and the location shows that the pilot was attempting to return.

Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau said he had received intelligence from multiple sources indicating the plane was shot down by an Iranian surface-to-air missile, adding that it was possible that this was unintentional.

This reinforces the need for a thorough investigation,” he said.

Canadians have questions and they deserve answers.

Victims of the crash included 82 Iranians, 63 Canadians and 11 Ukrainians as well as nationals from Sweden, the UK, Afghanistan and Germany.

But he said it was too early to apportion blame or draw any conclusions and refused to go into detail about the evidence.

(It isn’t clear whether the loved ones of the 82 Iranians, the 11 Ukrainians and the nationals from Sweden, the UK, Afghanistan and Germany deserve answers.)

  • A bombing claimed by the Islamic State (ISIS / ISIL) at a mosque in Quetta, Pakistan, killed at least 15 people and wounded 18 others, three days after a motorcycle bombing in the city killed two.

Flag of Pakistan

Above: Flag of Pakistan

A suicide bombing took place inside a Taliban-run mosque located in Ghousabad neighbourhood during Magrib (first morning) prayer in Quetta’s Satellite Town area. 

The bomb had been planted inside a seminary in the mosque. 

Bolan mosque.jpg

Among the dead was a Deputy Superintendent of Police, the apparent target of the attack, along with 14 civilians.

At least 19 others were injured.

The Islamic State claimed responsibility for the bombing.

They said the bombing caused 60 casualties, including 20 dead.

Blast inside Quetta mosque claims 15 lives, injures 19 - Pakistan - DAWN.COM

(It is so easy to forget that those who cause death and destruction in the name of Islam often target more Muslims than non-Muslims.

No matter how often the name of God is used, its use does not make an act of violence godly.)

Do Terrorists Have a Religion

  • the Iraqi cleric and Grand Ayatollah Ali al-Sistani condemned both the US and Iran over the escalation of conflict in Iraq, saying it shows blatant disregard for Iraqi sovereignty and the suffering of the Iraqi people.

Ali Sistani edit1.jpg

Above: Ali al-Sistani

A lot of war talk, a lot of sabre-rattling, a lot of innocent blood waiting to be spilled by young folks sacrificed in the name of nations, represented by leaders who remain far from any chance that they themselves are in danger.

Fear-mongering, defence of country, words like honour and glory, lives betrayed so the powerful can maintain or increase their power.

What baffles me is that we are supposed to believe that Iraq is a threat to the USA.

Location of Iraq

Above: Location of Iraq

Let’s compare, shall we?

The U.S. Strategy in Iraq Could Come Back to Bite

Military power ranking: US #1 / Iraq #53

Population: US 329 million / Iraq 40 million

Manpower: US 144 million / Iraq 16 million

Fit for duty: US 119 million / Iraq 13 million

Military personnel: US 1.2 million / Iraq 165,000

Reserve forces: US 360,000 / Iraq 0

Tanks: US 6,287 / Iraq 309

Armored vehicles: US 39,000 / Iraq 4,700

Self-propelled artillery: US 992 / Iraq 44

Towed artillery: US 864 / Iraq 120

Rocket projectors: US 1,056 / Iraq 30

Air strength: US 13,400 / Iraq 327

Fighters: US 2,362 / Iraq 26

Attack aircraft: US 2,831 / Iraq 59

Transport aircraft: US 1,153 / Iraq 24

Trainer aircraft: US 2,853 / Iraq 78

Helicopters: US 5,760 / Iraq 179

Naval strength: US 415 / Iraq 60

Frigates: US 22 / Iraq 0

Destroyers: US 68 / Iraq 0

Corvettes: US 15 / Iraq 0

Submarines: US 68 / Iraq 0

Patrol craft: US 13 / Iraq 25

Mine craft: US 11 / Iraq 0

Oil production: US 9.3 million barrels / Iraq 4.4 million barrels

Oil consumption: US 825 million barrels / Iraq 19 million barrels

Oil reserves: US 142.5 million barrels / Iraq 36.5 million barrels

Labour force. US 160.4 million / Iraq 8.9 million

Merchant marine: US 3,611 / Iraq 77

Ports / terminals: US 33 / Iraq 3

Roads: US 6,586,610 km / Iraq 44,900 km

Railroads: US 224,792 km / Iraq 2,272 km

Airports: US 13,513 / Iraq 102

Defence budget: US $716 billion / Iraq $6 billion

External debt: US $17 trillion / Iraq $73 billion

Foreign gold: US $123 billion / Iraq $48 billion

Purchasing power: US $19 trillion / Iraq $680 billion

Nuclear warheads: US 4,000 / Iraq 0

By the numbers, which country is the greatest threat to the other?

ORSAM-Center for Middle Eastern Studies

I may not find the idea of the theocratic government of Iraq a comfortable notion, but let us not paint the US as an innocent victim.

Above: Imam Ali Mosque, Najaf, Iraq: One of the holiest sites in Shia Islam

  • An 11-year-old student opened fire at his school in Torreón, Mexico, killing a teacher and wounding six others before committing suicide.

At least two people have been killed and six injured after an 11-year-old boy entered a school in northern Mexico with two handguns and opened fire.

The shooting took place on Friday morning in the city of Torreón, in Coahuila state.

Collage de Torreón.jpg

Above: Images of Torréon, Mexico

Mexico school shooting: Boy, 11, kills teacher and himself in Torreón - BBC  News

One of the dead was reportedly a female teacher, with some reports suggesting she had been the shooter’s target.

The other was the shooter, who police said had killed himself.

A graphic photograph published by Mexican news outlets showed what appeared to be the body of a young boy splayed out in a pool of blood, with a handgun lying on the ground.

Mexico school shooting: Teen told classmates he would bring gun

Police chief Maurilio Ochoa told reporters six people had been wounded – five schoolchildren and a teacher – with two in a “delicate” condition in hospital.

Ochoa said the shooter was believed to have entered his school with two weapons: a small-calibre handgun and a high-calibre weapon.

The boy’s parents and grandmother, with whom he lived, had said they had no idea how he acquired the guns.

This is really regrettable,” Ochoa said, as anxious parents gathered outside the school’s entrance.

He suggested backpack searches might be needed to prevent future tragedies.

Mexico: two killed after 11-year-old opens fire at school | World news |  The Guardian

Torreón’s mayor, Jorge Zermeño, told reporters the causes of the attack were still unclear.

They tell me he was a boy who had very good grades, who lives – lived – with his grandmother and who certainly suffered some kind of family problem.

He added:

It is very serious, so, so sad, and lamentable to see a primary school student do something like this.

In an interview with the Mexican news channel Milenio TV, Zermeño called the shooting an “atypical situation” that did not speak to the “peaceful society” that was Torreón.

This is a city that likes to work and likes to live in peace,” he said.

Ayuntamiento de Torreón

Above: Jorge Zermeno

Coahuila state’s governor, Miguel Ángel Riquelme, told reporters there were suspicions the shooter had been influenced by a video game called Natural Selection.

Miguel Riquelme Solís - Wikipedia, la enciclopedia libre

Above: Miguel Ángel Riquelme

Natural Selection logo 1.png

Before carrying out the shooting the boy – who has not been identified – reputedly told classmates:

Today is the day.

Despite suffering some of the world’s highest murder rates, school shootings of the kind that blight the US remain relatively rare in Latin America.

After school shooting, Mexican bishops stress family unity – Catholic Philly

  • Thousands of people protested in Australia, calling for the resignation or ouster of Prime Minister Scott Morrison, accusing him of negligence over the Australian bushfires.

The Sack ScoMo protests, organised by Uni Students for Climate Justice, were held in Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne — where the rain did little to dampen the mood of the large crowd.

They went ahead despite calls from Victorian Premier Daniel Andrews and Victoria Police who expressed concern that police would need to be pulled away from bushfires to monitor the large crowds.

Daniel Andrews 2018.jpg

Above: Victoria Premier Daniel Andrews

Protesters in Sydney lampoon Scott Morrison for his Hawaiian holiday. Picture: Matrix.

A sea of umbrellas could be seen along the steps of Victoria’s State Library and protesters spilt across Swanston Street and towards Melbourne Central Station.

Some used megaphones to speak to small groups who sheltered from the rain.

T-shirts, selling for $40 each, read F*** SCOMO.

Placards help by protesters read:

We deserve more than your negligence.”

This is ecosystem collapse.”

We can’t breathe.”

Australia bushfires: towns face anxious wait as strong winds drive fires |  Australia news | The Guardian

Protesters told news.com.au they were pleased with the turnout.

There are so many people here, despite the weather.

It proves that people really care about the cause and are tired of waiting for action,” one young woman said.

Australians protest PM Scott Morrison's climate policies amid bushfire  crisis - CNN

In Sydney, thousands more gathered outside Sydney Town Hall to hear from speakers.

Organisers Uni Students for Climate Justice wrote on Facebook they want to “make the climate criminals pay” and “keep up the pressure”.

It comes as NSW authorities warn of a “long night” with almost a dozen fires flaring up across the state.

The protests outside the Sydney Town Hall. Picture: @MichaelM_ACT/Twitter

Premier Gladys Berejiklian said besides the two new fires, everything else was playing out as forecast with the hot and windy conditions on Friday.

But she urged communities remain vigilant.

In essence, we know it’s going to be a long and difficult night,” Ms Berejiklian said.

We won’t know the extent of the impact of these fires until early tomorrow morning.”

Gladys Berejiklian NSW (cropped).jpg

Above: New South Wales Premier Gladys Berejiklian

Starting from September 2019, fires heavily impacted various regions of the state of New South Wales, with more than 100 fires burnt across the state.

In Victoria, large areas of forest burnt out of control for four weeks before the fires emerged from the forests in late December, taking lives, threatening many towns.

Significant fires occurred in South Australia and parts of the Australian Capital Territory (ACT).

Moderately affected areas were southeastern Queensland and areas of southwestern Western Australia, with a few areas in Tasmania being mildly impacted.

On 12 November 2019, catastrophic fire danger was declared in the Greater Sydney region for the first time since the introduction of this level in 2009 and a total fire ban was in place for seven regions of New South Wales, including Greater Sydney.

The Illawarra and Greater Hunter areas also experienced catastrophic fire dangers, as did other parts of the state, including the already fire ravaged parts of northern New South Wales.

2020 Australia Wildfires.png

Above: Images of 2019 – 2020 Australian bush fires

The political ramifications of the fire season have been significant.

A decision by the New South Wales government to cut funding to fire services based on budget estimates, as well as a holiday taken by Australian Prime Minister Scott Morrison, during a period in which two volunteer firefighters died, and his perceived apathy towards the situation, resulted in controversy.

Scott Morrison 2019.jpg

Above: Australian Prime Minister Scott Morrison

  • Author and self-help guru Marianne Williamson dropped out of the US Democratic Party presidential primaries.

Williamson said that her lack of elective office experience does not disqualify her from being President.

She implies that not having held office before is, in part, what makes her uniquely qualified.

She stated that the belief that only experienced politicians can lead the US is “preposterous“, arguing that experienced politicians led the US into unfounded wars, extreme income inequality and environmental harm.

Marianne Williamson (48541662667) (cropped).jpg

Above: Marianne Williamson

She has called for her expertise in empathy, differentiated thinking, and political vision to be valued on par with elected experience and cited President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s 1932 statement that:

The Presidency is not merely an administrative office.

That’s the least of it.

It is preeminently a place of moral leadership.”

FDR 1944 Color Portrait.jpg

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945)

“Throughout her campaign, Williamson talks more about ideas than plans.

Some people might see that as an inability to lead, but when inciting the darkest parts of humanity helped win the previous election, trying to appeal to the light side doesn’t sound like such a bad idea.

She’s doing her best to move the conversation to one of peace and love instead of anger and division.

What is so laughable about that?

Campaign promises – plans for Medicare, plans for how to curb climate change – are great.

But promises without a fundamental shift in thinking will simply become empty promises.

Williamson is trying to teach us that our mind-set needs a new baseline, one of true empathy, so that it becomes impossible to deny people basic health care, so that Americans would never for one second think that separating breastfeeding mothers from their infants at the border is in any way acceptable.”

(Kerry Pieri, Harper’s Bazaar)

border

Williamson believes that the Presidency of Donald Trump inspired increased visibility and political participation of White nationalists and is therefore unique and requires “more” than past political experience to be defeated:

When we look at the role that emotion plays in White Nationalism, the role of emotion in those movements is undeniable.

Hate is powerful and hate is contagious.

And it is not enough to meet it simply with an intellectual analysis or rational argument.

The only way you can defeat them is by overriding them through an equal force is exerted when people are awakened to those positive feelings and positive emotions.

Williamson stressed that she meets all the requirements to be President as laid out by the US Constitution and implied that those who dismiss candidates without elective office experience are elitists impeding the country’s democratic process and values.

She has appealed for a process that excludes media favouritism in favor of bringing forth candidates to voters, allowing those candidates to “do their best” and then “allowing voters to decide for themselves through their own intelligent analysis“.

If the Founders wanted to say ‘That Presidential candidate needs to be a governor or a senator, or a congressman or a lawyer,’ then they would have.

But they didn’t, because they were leaving it to every generation to determine for itself the skillset that that generation feels is most necessary in order to address the challenges of their time.

I think we need more than someone who’s just qualified because they understand how Washington works.

We need someone today who understands how “we” work.

And I think my 35-year career gives me those qualifications.

I must admit I am torn between the idea that if any American wants to be President desire should be enough, and the importance of political experience.

  • The Tunisian Parliament votes to reject a cabinet proposed by Prime Minister-designate Habib Jemli.

President Kais Saied has ten days to select someone else to build a new government.

I can’t imagine forming a cabinet is easy.

Flag of Tunisia

Above: Flag of Tunisia

Location of Tunisia (dark blue) in Africa (light blue)

Above: Location of Tunisia

  • Omani statet television announced the death of the Sultan of Oman Qaboos bin Said al Said (79).

At the time of his death, Said was the longest serving head of state in the Middle East and Arab world.

QaboosBinSaidAlSaid (cropped).jpg

Above: Qaboos bin Said al-Said (1940 – 2020)

The high military council of the Sultan of Oman’s Armed Forces called on the Omani royal family to convene to name a successor to the late Sultan within three days.

A three-day period of national mourning was declared.

Flag of Oman

Above: Flag of Oman

Location of Oman in the Arabian Peninsula (dark green)

Above: Location of Oman

I compare my life with world events since I arrived in Napanee:

  • There is little risk of being attacked by anyone.
  • I fortunately knew no one aboard Flight 752 nor in the Iranian bus crash.
  • I have no stake in the future of Nissan nor have I ever met Ghosan (or anyone famous for that matter).
  • I have no stake in Brexit though I do think it is a bad idea.
  • I knew no one in the Quetta bombing nor in the Torréon shootings.
  • The bush fires in Australia are interesting and global warming affects the globe, but beyond this I am uninvolved.
  • The US elections are interesting, but I am neither an American nor a resident in America.
  • Politics elsewhere in the world are worthwhile watching, but folks in Tunisia and Oman care little about what a Canadian residing in Switzerland thinks.

Stop Reading the News: A Manifesto for a Happier, Calmer and Wiser Life:  Dobelli, Rolf: 9781529342680: Amazon.com: Books

Instead I watch with sadness the activities of the family S.

Happily, Big J is not as obsessed with games and TV as the females in the place.

In the early afternoon J and I walk to A & W.

I had forgotten how much I missed A & W root beer.

A&W Root Beer logo.svg

A few hours later I retrace our steps to the creek J had showed me and then treat myself at the local Denny’s.

In the evening, cabbie A with her daughter S show up and more games are played.

S is like my cousin Steve, a natural winner in any competition.

It is easy to love folks like Steve, except when competiting against them.

Hasbro Gaming The Game of Life Board Game for Families and Kids Ages 9 and  Up, Game for 2-4 Players | Indore Business

Being winter, it is difficult to play tourist in Napanee.

Winter Shadows in Napanee

Being five years apart and away from the family S means escape must be done in a manner that does not offend.

The Great Escape (film) poster.jpg

There is a great irony that dominates my thoughts before the cat and I return to the sofa bed.

I am leaving as planned tomorrow for Toronto.

From top, left to right: The CN Tower viewed from Harbourfront, the Ontario Legislative Building, the Prince Edward Viaduct, City Hall with the 3D Toronto sign, Casa Loma, the Royal Ontario Museum and the Scarborough Bluffs

Above: Images of Toronto

It will again be years before I see the family S again (barring disease or disaster unforeseen).

I am simultaneously relieved and anxious to be leaving.

I love these people and yet they fill me with sadness.

So much wasted potential, I think.

They are my soul’s mirror.

I am discomfited.

Michael Jackson- "Man In The Mirror": This song is great for this story's  concept. The song's meaning is base… | Jackson family, Songs with meaning,  Michael jackson

Napanee to Kingston, Ontario, Saturday 11 January 2020

48 hours it has been between arrival and departure at the station.

I loathe myself and my eagerness to leave.

Before we packed J, V, K, her cat and I into the family car, I gave prefunctionary presents of what I had on hand that I acquired and carried since my return to Canada nine days ago.

It is a drizzling grey day that matches my mood.

My mood lifts at seeing Canada geese in a Kingston park.

Shouldn’t they have already flown down south?

What to do when the Canada Goose gets in your way | Watch News Videos Online

We drive by the Kingston Penitentary, still impressive, still imposing.

Above: Kingston Pentientary

Somewhere on the way we stop for milkshakes (in January!).

At the convenience store next door, I buy today’s Kingston Whig Standard newspaper and two magazines on writing (something to read on the train ride to Toronto).

Thewhig.png

As K‘s cat needs medical attention (It won’t eat as it should.) I am left alone at the station one hour before departure, a farewell that felt forced, I fear my face telegraphed my feelings.

As I wait for the train, I eat the sandwiches that Big J made me last night (ham and cheddar upon leaves of lettuce between slices of dry bread).

I hope that the Napanee Sadness will eventually fade.

All I know is that as much as I love the family S, as much as they are my family, I do not belong with them.

The skies are grey, within and without.

Kingston Station ON CLIP.jpg

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / YouTube / http://www.lyrics.com / The Napanee Beaver, 9 January 2020 / Reader’s Digest Explore Canada / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Frank Bodin, Do it, with love / Thomas Girst and Magnus Resch, 100 Secrets of the Art World / Esther Vilar, The Manipulated Man

Hanky Panky: Porn or protest?

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Sunday 6 December 2020

As the end of this “annus horribilus” it is natural for me (and others, of course) to consider the year we have (so far) survived.

Annus Horribilis: Latin for Everyday Life - Kindle edition by Walker, Mark.  Reference Kindle eBooks @ Amazon.com.

An article from June sticks with me, for I am uncertain of how to feel or think about it.

To put the article into context, first let us consider the George Floyd protests.

Crowd of protesters with signs, including one reading "I Can't Breathe"

From the New York Times, Thursday 4 June 2020:

When George Floyd died under the knee of a Minneapolis police officer, the scourge of police violence, festering for generations, became a rallying point for Americans yearning for the fulfillment of the country’s founding aspiration to promote life, liberty and happiness.

George Floyd.png

Above: George Floyd  (1973 – 2020)

Yet as they turned out to exercise their most basic rights as citizens, these Americans have often encoutered more contempt for those rights from the people who are supposed to protect them.

Protesters wearing COVID masks marching down a Baltimore street on May 30

The police have imposed arbitrary limits on protests, creating excuses for confrontation.

They have fired countless rounds of tear gas and rubber bullets into unarmed crowds, sometimes without warning.

They have attacked with fists, truncheons, shields – and cars.

They have behaved as if determined to prevent peaceful protest by introducing violence.

In some of the most troubling attacks, police officers have singled out those who spoke up, wading into crowds of protesters and silencing the loudest voices.

In Charleston, South Carolina, a black man dropped to one knee and told the police:

All of you are my family.

The police arrested him.

Charleston reacts to Floyd death: Protester teaches kids 'there's a just  world out there' | News | postandcourier.com

In Kansas City, Missouri, a black man shouted from a crowd of protesters:

If you ain’t got the balls to protect the streets and protect and serve like you were paid to do, turn in your damned badge.

The police arrested him.

Kansas City police urge peace at George Floyd protests | The Kansas City  Star

In scores of incidents across the country, police officers also have deliberately attacked journalists reporting on the protests.

Minneapolis police arrested a CNN crew on live television.

CNN crew released after being arrested while reporting on Minneapolis  protests | KSTP.com

Video captured Louisville police firing pepper bullets at a local TV crew.

Im getting shot Police fire pepper balls at TV REPORTER crew during Louisville  protests VIDEO | KXan 36 Daily News

The Manhattan district attorney’s office is investigating the alleged assault of a Wall Street Journal reporter by the police.

WSJ Logo.svg

Protesters, for their part, have also targeted reporters, including a Fox News crew outside the White House.

Fox News' Leland Vittert Describes “Very Frightening” Scene At Protest –  Deadline

In a brazen display of this administration’s disregard of the First Amendment, the nation’s chief law enforcement officer, Attorney General William Barr, ordered federal officers to clear a peaceful protest in front of the White House.

William Barr.jpg

Above: Attorney General William Barr

The police used tear gas, rubber bullets and riot shields to drive away protesters, journalists and priests standing on the private porch of St. John’s Church, all so Trump could pose for photos.

The photo op managed to take aim at the freedom of assembly, speech and religion all at the same time.

Trump holds up Bible in front of St John's Church - TeleTrader.com

On 2 June, the Trump administration sent more troops into the streets of Washington.

Armored vehicles patrolled downtown.

Helicopters buzzed overhead.

Soldiers trained for war in foreign countries stood on the corners of American streets, hands on guns.

George Floyd latest: Washington DC protesters arrive for ′largest′ rally |  News | DW | 06.06.2020

Americans aren’t holding their breath for the president to change his incendiary behaviour, but city leaders and governors have plenty of room to act in the meantime.

Flag of the United States

There are signs some leaders recognize the damage that has been done.

In Richmond, Virginia, where the police gassed demonstrators on Monday 1 June, the mayor, Levar Stoney, apologized the next day and promised to join a march.

75) Richmond mayor: "It's time to replace the racist symbols of oppression  and inequality"

Above: Former Richmond Mayor Levar Stoney

The chief of police, William Smith, took a knee in a show of contrition and solidarity.

Photo Richmond Free Press | Serving the African American Community in  Richmond, VA

The governor of Minnesota, Tim Walz, apologized to the CNN reporters arrested in Minneapolis, and then took a moment to dilate on the importance of a free press.

The protection and security and safety of the journalists covering this is a top priority, not because it is a nice thing to do, because it is a key component of how we fix this,” Walz said.

Sunshine, disinfectant and seeing what is happening has to be done.

Tim Walz official photo.jpg

Above: Minnesota Governor Tim Walz

On 2 June, Walz ordered a civil rights investigation into the “systemic racism” of the Minneapolis Police Department.

MN - Minneapolis Police.png

It is not enough, right now, for officials to focus on protecting private property.

It is not enough even for them to think only of protecting life, though that is critical.

They need to also protect the freedoms of assembly and expression, and then, like Walz, to hear what is being said.

That is where the healing may begin.

All of this follows the headline: “In America, protest is patriotic.

Patriotism and Protest: Can they Coexist? - Campaign 2016: Youth Vote

Admittedly, this headline would have more credibility if other protests were viewed in the same manner.

Can art be a form of protest?

Rise Up! The Art of Protest: Rippon, Jo, Copeny, Mari: 9781623541507:  Amazon.com: Books

The word “art” can seem pretentious.

When people hear it, they worry someone will force them to read a novel or go to a museum or see a movie without any explosions in it.

To NYT guest columnist Eric Kaplan, art simply refers to those aspects of our lives that can be suffused and transformed by creativity.

And having creativity in our lives is important.

Without it we are just going through the notions, stuck in the past.

With it we feel alive, even joyous.

Kaplan at the 2017 San Diego Comic-Con

Above. Eric Kaplan

But if art is simply life imbued with creativity, then what exactly is creativity?

Kaplan gives five theses on creativity:

#1: Creativity makes something new.

A different way of talking can suddenly make our world seem new.

Here is an example:

In the Middle Ages, a road was something people walked on, the ocean a terrifying expanse of blue.

But when the anonymous author of the Old English epic poem Beowulf called the ocean a “whale road“, he made his readers experience the ocean afresh.

The ocean may be an obstacle for us landbound humans, but for whales it is a road.

#2: Creativity hides itself.

Creativity is shy.

It is easy to miss that creativity is about making something new, because, as soon as we succeed, the new thing we have created appears obvious, as if it had always been there.

Whale” and “road” were just there hanging around when someone said “whale road“.

And then people said:

Of course! The ocean may be a barrier for us, but it is not for whales. They swim in it.

All that one person did was say what there was to be said – except it wasn’t there to be said, until they said it.

Creativity can seem like a tool for solving problems:

We need a new word for the ocean!

But creativity does not just solve problems.

It also makes or discovers new problems to solve.

Hundreds of years ago, nobody knew the old words for ocean weren’t cutting it, until someone said “whale road“.

And everyone was like:

Wow! It is a whale road!

Creativity always hides itself.

It makes itself disappear.

Southern right whale

That is a helpful point to keep in mind when thinking about science, because creativity is fundamental there, too.

We tend to think of science as a series of non-optional statements about how the world works – as a collection of things we must believe.

But if that is true, how can scientists be creative?

They can’t really say anything new.

They just have to passively express things as they are.

But, of course, that isn’t how science works at all.

We actually have to create it.

When Isaac Newton came up with his second law of motion (force equals mass times accleration) he was being just as creative as the person who came up with “whale road“.

And as with “whale road“, Newton’s creativity was concealed by the success of his creative art:

His formulation pointed toward something that already existed, but also did not.

The more successful we are, the more it will seem like the things we created did not need to be created.

Creativity hides.

Sir Isaac Newton (1643-1727).jpg

Above: Isaac Newton (1643 – 1727)

#3: Creativity permeates life.

Creativity fills our lives like ocean water fills the grains of a sand castle – saturating the spaces between this moment and the next, this word and the next.

As a consequence, you can be creative when you are doing pretty much anything:

You can be creative in the way you walk to work, respond to grief, make a friend, move your body when you wake up in the morning, or hum a tune on a sunny day.

We are constantly remaking our lives through acts of creativity.

In fact, creativity makes life possible – just like water makes a sand castle possible.

Without water a sand castle falls apart.

A life that is completely routinized and uncreative is no life at all.

#4: Creativity can break your heart.

Creativity is inherently risky.

You might say:

Creativity seems so joyous and fun.

Why isn’t everybody creative all the time?

Why do people steal and plagirize instead?

Why do they follow rules when they are trying to be creative all the time?

Why do they always make the hero handsome or always make song lyrics rhyme?

Why do they copy what has worked before?

Plagiarism signature.jpg

Because creativity can fail.

If you knew ahead of time that the thing you were making would work, you wouldn’t be engaged in creativity.

And when it doesn’t work, it breaks your heart.

You look like a fool.

What is worse, you FEEL like a fool.

It is very embarrassing.

But you cannot get the joy of creativity without risking pain and failure – which is also true of love.

#5: Creativity is a kind of love.

That is why it can break your heart and why, at the same time, it can make the world come alive.

When you are creative, you make things fresh and new.

When you love someone or something, you do the same.

That is why creativity is shy, why it hides.

We don’t want the way we love to be captured by someone else’s loveless formulation.

We don’t want someone to say:

Oh, he loves everybody with blond hair.

He loves everybody who reminds him of his mother.

We don’t like it when people think they can manipulate us by figuring out whom or what we love.

It is an insult to those we love, to us, to love itself.

So we are a bit guarded when we talk about love.

We don’t want people using the way we love to take advantage of us.

Love is the best part of our lives and can permeate our entire being, but it is the most terrible thing when it is misused or misunderstood.

It is the same with creativity.

Above: Wall of Love on Montmarte Paris: “I love you” in 250 languages, by calligraphist Fédéric Baron and artist Claire Kito (2000)

All this prologue about creativity and protest leads me to the artist Kent Monkman.

Kent Monkman solo show to open in Toronto in August - NOW Magazine

Above: Kent Monkman

From the New York Times, Wednesday 3 June 2020:

Many indigenous people in Canada consider Justin Trudeau, after more than four years as Prime Minister, as little better than the other white colonial leaders who have oppressed them for the past 150 years.

Trudeau’s only Indigenous cabinet minister quit and his government approved pipelines across Indigenous territory, despite dissent and protests.

Still that sentiment had not prepared even some of Trudeau’s sharpest critics for a painting by celebrated Cree artist Kent Monkman.

Portrait photograph of Trudeau smiling in front of Rideau Cottage.

Above. Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau

Titled “Hanky Panky“, Monkman’s painting depicts the Prime Minister on his hands and knees with his pants down as a crowd of Indigenous women looks on, laughing.

Behind him is the artist’s alter ego, wearing knee-high stiletto boots and a long feather headdress.

The image suggests themes of sexual violence and humiliation.

And instead of cheers, the painting, released on social media in May, has inspired anger among many Indigenous people, who has Monkman has gone too far.

Kent Monkman issues apology for painting that depicts the 'sexual assault'  of Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau | The Art Newspaper

Above: “Hanky Panky

Critics have described the painting as culturally degrading “revenge porn” that equates rape with retribution.

Charlottelawsredcarpet62010.jpg

Above: Dr. Charlotte Laws, American author, talk show host, community activist, animal rights advocate, anti-revenge porn activist, former Los Angeles politician, and actress under the stage name Missy Laws

The outcry was a sharp reminder that while Canada is under lockdown because of the corona virus pandemic, the country’s existential crisis over the historic abuse of Indigenous people – and their continued overrepresentation in jails, foster homes, morgues, missing persons lists and poverty statistics – is staggering.

Native Americans Race.png

Above: Percentage of population in North America that is Indigenous

I don’t like the colonial government and don’t like things Justin Trudeau has said and done, but I would never wish sexual violence on anyone,” said jaye simpson, an Indigenous trans-woman and writer from Vancouver, who was among the piece’s vocal critics and whose name, by preference, is not rendered with capitals.

Lessons from Care: 'The Only Flaw in This System Is that Some of Us  Survived' | The Tyee

Above: jaye simpson

Monkman is often recognized for representing Indigenous voices in his art, but “his work was never for us“, jaye simpson wrote on Twitter, referring to Indigenous people of marginalized genders.

It was never intended to keep us safe nor empower us.

Twitter bird logo 2012.svg

In a statement posted on his website, Monkman said the feedback from his community would “have a lasting impact” on him and influence his work.

He has also apologized, acknowledging that the elements he included to indicate consent in the painting were not prominent enough.

Map of Canada colour-coded for the 2006 census results for the leading ethnicity by census division

Trudeau rose to power in 2015 with the promise to make “reconciliation” with the country’s First Nations, Métis and Inuit peoples central to his government.

Since then, Trudeau has added another ministry to deal with Indigenous issues, proposed changing the citizenship oath to include a commitment to treaties with Indigenous people and worked toward providing clean water to First Nations reserves.

Crown-Indigenous Relations and Northern Affairs.svg

But his only Indigenous minister quit, saying she felt pressured in her job as Attorney General to avert criminal charges for bribery against the powerhouse Canadian firm SNC-Lavalin, and Trudeau’s government approved pipelines across Indigenous territory.

Jody Wilson-Raybould (cropped).jpg

Above: Jody Wilson-Raybould, also known by her initials JWR and by her Kwak’wala name Puglaas, is a Canadian politician who has served as a Member of Parliament for the British Columbia riding of Vancouver Granville since 2015.

She represented the riding as a member of the Liberal party from 2015 to 2019 and as an independent since 2019.

She served as Minister of Justice and Attorney General of Canada in the cabinet of Justin Trudeau from 2015 until January 2019, and then as Minister of Veteran Affairs of Canada from 14 January 2019, until resigning on 12 February 2019 over the SNC-Lavalin affair. 

Before entering Canadian federal politics, she was a Crown Prosecutor for British Columbia, a Treaty Commissioner and Regional Chief of the BC Assembly of First Nations.

(The SNC-Lavalin affair was a political scandal involving attempted political interference with the justice system by the Prime Minister of Canada, Justin Trudeau, and the Prime Minister’s Office (PMO).

Langevin Block (2013)(cropped).jpg

Above: Langevin Block, where the PMO and the Privy Council are seated.

The Parliament of Canada’s Ethics Commissioner Mario Dion found that Trudeau improperly influenced then Minister of Justice and Attorney General Jody Wilson-Raybould to intervene in an ongoing criminal case against Quebec-based construction company SNC-Lavalin.

SNC-Lavalin logo.svg

The Trudeau government has maintained that there was no undue pressure or law broken, that offering SNC-Lavalin a deferred prosecution agreement (DPA) could save jobs, and that the controversy resulted from a misunderstanding and an “erosion of trust“.

Liberals nominate Mario Dion as next ethics commissioner - The Globe and  Mail

Above: Mario Dion, Ethics Commissioner

The affair became public on 7 February 2019 when The Globe and Mail published an article uncovering the allegations, shortly after Wilson-Raybould had been shuffled to another cabinet position.

Four days later, Ethics Commissioner Dion announced he would investigate the allegations.

Wilson-Raybould resigned from cabinet later that day.

This was followed by the resignation of Gerald Butts, the Principal Secretary to Trudeau.

Gerald Butts.jpg

Above: Gerald Butts

This was then followed by the resignation of fellow Liberal cabinet minister Jane Philpott, over the government’s handling of the affair.

Jane Philpott (cropped).jpg

Above. Jane Philpott

The House of Commons’ Justice Committee held three hearings into the affair.

The House of Commons sits in the West Block in Ottawa

Above: The Canadian House of Commons

Wilson-Raybould, Butts, and Michael Wernick, Clerk of the Privy Council testified before the committee.

Wilson-Raybould said there was a breach of prosecutorial independence when members of the government pressured her to offer SNC-Lavalin a DPA instead of continuing with a criminal prosecution.

Butts and Wernick testified that they had contacted Wilson-Raybould to find a “political solution” after the decision to not offer SNC-Lavalin a DPA was made.

Controversially, Wilson-Raybould revealed that she had secretly recorded a conversation she had with Wernick while she was Attorney General.

Following the hearings, Wernick announced his early retirement from the Privy Council.

Clerk of the Privy Council Michael Wernick retiring - NEWS 1130

Above: Michael Wernick

Leader of the Offical Opposition Andrew Scheer called for Trudeau’s resignation.

He further accused Trudeau of political interference, lying to Canadians, and corrupt conduct.

Trudeau responded to those comments with a threat of a libel lawsuit through his lawyer.

Andrew Scheer in 2018

Above: Andrew Scheer

Opposition parties and former attorneys-general asked the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) to investigate whether Trudeau’s conduct qualifies as obstruction of justice.

RCMP GRC Logo.svg

In April, Trudeau expelled Wilson-Raybould and Philpott from the Liberal caucus.

Liberal Party of Canada Logo 2014.svg

After a six-month-long investigation, Ethics Commissioner Dion issued a report that concluded that Trudeau had contravened Section 9 of the federal Conflict of Interest Act by improperly pressuring Wilson-Raybould.

Dion wrote that while Wilson-Raybould was never officially directed to interfere, this influence was “tantamount to political direction“.

Dion did not find that any actual political interference in the prosecution occurred.

However, he reported he did not have access to all of the evidence.

Under the Act, there are no sanctions specified for the violation.

After the commissioner’s report was released, the Prime Minister released a statement both taking responsibility for and defending his actions.

The opposition leaders have called for further investigations.)

Statutory Review of the Conflict of Interest Act

Many became disillusioned and cynical – a mood captured in Monkman’s painting.

That’s what Monkman does:

He takes an image and flings it in your face,” said Patty Krawec, an Ojibwe-Ukrainian podcaster in Niagara Falls (Ontario), who worked in a sexual assault centre for years.

But in this one, he has made us complicit in this violence.

If this is retribution, how dare you make me complicit in that?

Patty Krawec | Sojourners

Above: Patty Krawec

Monkman is among the most successful artists in Canada.

His work is coveted by the country’s elite and at international museums, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art (MOMA) in New York, which commissioned two large paintings by him and installed them in the museums’ entrance in November 2019.

Monkman’s recent large works have sold for more than $100,000.

Artist Kent Monkman's new murals at The Met reexamine Manhattan's colonial  past | 6sqft

Mostly his pieces are historical paintings that subvert classical works by inserting Indigenous figures and stories.

They often include his bawdry gender-bending alter ego, whom he has called Miss Chief Share Eagle Testickle.

Meet Kent Monkman's flamboyant, two-spirited alter-ego: Miss Chief Eagle  Testickle | Xtra Magazine

Though he has said his paintings are meant to shock people and provoke questions, the visceral response to his latest piece surprised him.

I wish for my work to resist the colonial traumas inflicted upon my own family and so many others for generations, not to perpetuate harm,” Monkman wrote on Facebook, offering an apology.

Facebook Logo (2019).svg

The text accompanying the final reveal stated the piece’s goal was to highlight “the problems with the Canadian (in)justice system.

It explained the pending act with the “grinning young man” at its centre was consensual, indicated by the red hankerchief hanging from Trudeau’s rear pocket, a code “widely used in gay subcultures in the 70s and 80s“.

Howard Levitt: Why I couldn't resist buying Monkman's notorious 'Hanky Panky'  painting | National Post

While Monkman had a relatively privileged upbringing in Winnipeg, with a Cree father and a white mother, he has said he has identified strongly with his paternal great-grandmother, who lived with them.

His great-grandmother lost her daughter in a residential school, institutions mostly run by religious orders that were used by the Canadian government for more than a century as weapons of assimilation.

Indigenous children were often forcibly removed from their families and cultures and placed in the schools, where many were physically and sexually abused.

One of Monkman’s best-known works is “The Scream“, featuring priests, nuns and Canadian policemen tearing children from the arms of sreaming women.

Zhigwe/aim Week 9: Kent Monkman, "The Scream" (2017) | Integrated Studies  in Education - McGill University

Monkman runs his Toronto studio as Renaissance masters ran theirs.

Apprentices work on his large pieces while he designs the concept and oversees the process.

Kent Monkman and the making of a masterpiece - Macleans.ca

Many of his paintings are assembled from multiple photo shoots of costumed models, whose images he changes in his final product.

He has been criticized for using images of people in ways they may not approve.

The modern touch of an old master: Inside the process behind Kent Monkman's  art - The Globe and Mail

That’s the power imbalance,” said Lindsay Nixon, editor at large of Canadian Art magazine and a queer Indigenous art historian in Toronto.

There is this younger generation who are saying:

We feel so shocked and misrepresented by these images and this millionaire figure living in this very rich neighbourhood of Toronto who is very disconnected from those communities that he purports to represent, ” Nixon said.

Lindsay Nixon to Curate the 2019 Arts & Literary Magazines Summit -  Magazines Canada

Above: Lindsay Nixon

If Monkman had previously been on the margins of the country’s cultural wars, his latest painting has tugged him into its centre.

The big question many are asking now is:

Who is this art for?

If he is claiming to make traditional Cree art, then there is a requirement to go back to the community,” explained David Garneau, a Métis artist, curator and professor of studio art and painting at the University of Regina.

If he is just an artist, there is no need.

He added:

Is he a moral agent or is he an amoral artist?

Visual arts professor turns to his Métis roots for major art project |  Communications and Marketing, University of Regina

Above. David Garneau

One of Monkman’s early buyers and boosters, Bruce Bailey, said he did not think Monkman should have apologized for this work.

We cannot have censorship due to the sensitivity of the public,” said Bailey, who is white, and who said that most of Monkman’s buyers were aging white gay men.

Once you give in to the public mob, there is no more freedom of expression.

46 Bruce C Bailey Hosts A Reception In Honor Of Artist Kent Monkman Photos  and Premium High Res Pictures - Getty Images

Above: Bruce Bailey

Not all the reaction to the painting was negative, even within Canada’s various Indigenous communities.

The Inuit throat singer Tanya Tagaq wrote on Instagram that she thought Monkman’s work was “absolute genius“.

Tanya Tagaq, in 2017.

Above: Tanya Tagaq Gillis

Murray Sinclair, a Canadian senator who led the country’s devastating Truth and Reconciliation Commission into the residential schools, described the work on Facebook as a “monumental testament to the treatment of Indigenous women and the public’s lack of caring.

How?

By reversing the roles of victim and victimizer.

Murray Sinclair at Shingwauk 2015 Gathering.jpg

The Truth and Reconciliation Commission of Canada (Commission de vérité et réconciliation du Canada) was a commission active in Canada from 2008 to 2015, organized by the parties of the Indian Residential Schools Settlement Agreement.

TRC Canada Logo.svg

The Commission was officially established on 1 June 2008 with the purpose of documenting the history and lasting impacts of the Canadian Indian residential school system on Indigenous students and their families.

It provided residential school survivors an opportunity to share their experiences during public and private meetings held across the country.

In Canada, the Indian residential school system was a network of boarding schools for Indigenous peoples.

Exterior view of Qu'Appelle Indian Industrial School in Lebret, District of Assiniboia, c. 1885. Surrounding land and tents are visible in the foreground.

Above: The Qu’Appelle Indian Industrial School in Lebret, Assiniboia, Northwest Territories, 1885

The network was funded by the Canadian government’s Department of Indian Affairs and administered by Christian churches.

Posed, group photo of students and teachers, dressed in black and white, outside Middlechurch, Manitoba's St. Paul's Indian Industrial School

Above: St. Paul’s Indian Industrial School, Middlechurch, Manitoba, 1901

I accept and I confess before God and you, our failures in the residential schools.

We failed you.

We failed ourselves.

We failed God.

I am sorry, more than I can say, that we were part of a system which took you and your children from home and family.

I am sorry, more than I can say, that we tried to remake you in our image, taking from you your language and the signs of your identity.

I am sorry, more than I can say, that in our schools so many were abused physically, sexually, culturally and emotionally.

On behalf of the Anglican Church of Canada, I present our apology.

Archbishop Michael Peers, A Step Along the Path

Michael Peers in Regina after election as Bishop of Qu'Appelle.jpg

Above: Archbishop Michael Peers

The school system was created for the purpose of removing Indigenous children from the influence of their own culture and assimilating them into the dominant Canadian culture, “to kill the Indian in the child.”

Above: The schools aimed to eliminate Indigenous language and culture and replace it with English language and Christian beliefs. Pictured is Fort Resolution, NWT.

Over the course of the system’s more than one-hundred-year existence, about 30% of Indigenous children (around 150,000) were placed in residential schools nationally.

The number of school-related deaths remains unknown due to an incomplete historical record, though estimates range from 3,200 to upwards of 6,000.)

Stone cairn erected in 1975 marking the Battleford Industrial School Cemetery. A plaque at the top of the cairn reads: RESTORATION THROUGH OPPORTUNITIES FOR YOUTH, 4S1179-1974. PLAQUE PROVIDED BY DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM AND RENEWABLE RESOURCES.

The TRC emphasized that it had a priority of displaying the impacts of the residential schools to the Canadians who have been kept in the dark from these matters.

In June 2015, the TRC released an Executive Summary of its findings along with 94 “calls to action” regarding reconciliation between Canadians and Indigenous peoples.

The Commission officially concluded in December 2015 with the publication of a multi-volume final report that concluded the school system amounted to cultural genocide.

The National Centre for Truth and Reconciliation, which opened at the University of Manitoba in November 2015, is an archival repository home to the research, documents, and testimony collected during the course of the TRC’s operation.)

National Centre for Truth And Reconciliation Logo.jpg

Trudeau’s office declined to comment on the piece.

And for the moment, some Indigenous people in Canada have been willing to accept Monkman’s apology.

We will see what happens with his next piece,” Ms. Krawec said.

Artist Kent Monkman's painting of partially nude Trudeau with laughing  women creates uproar online | CBC News

Above: Kent Monkman

I certainly agree that Canada’s treatment of Indigenous peoples has been and remains dishonourable and certainly using art to highlight this injustice and disrespect is a meritorous act to do.

But I am a loss for words and understanding why there is the insistence of bringing sex and gender identity when portraying this maltreatment.

Is the only response to those who have hurt us retribution that destroys and humiliates those blamed for the pain?

Acting hurtful to those whom have hurt us demeans us and lowers us to their level.

Artist Kent Monkman's painting of partially nude Trudeau with laughing  women creates uproar online | CBC News

Have Canada’s Indigenous people suffered centuries of ongoing indignity?

Absolutely.

And it can be argued that a canvas of the Prime Minister about to be mounted is pale by comparison to this historical tragedy that has been the legacy of the First Nations.

But demanding dignity by diminishing the dignity of others seems to me to be the wrong approach.

Artist Kent Monkman's painting of partially nude Trudeau with laughing  women creates uproar online | CBC News

I feel that Indigenous people would be better represented if the methodologies of native art were used to evocatively provoke our emotions by showing these jails, foster homes, morgues, missing person lists and poverty in ways less complicated by other issues such as LGBT representation and gender identity simultaneously.

Certainly the LGBT community has also suffered a lack of respect and dignity in their lives, but perhaps the commonality of humanity that unites them with others need not be an Indigenous issue as well.

Keep it simple.

Let us deal with one group’s grievances one piece at a time.

This alone is complex.

Above. LGBT community flag

Is there an element of violence inherant in acts of physical intimacy?

Certainly, in the sense of one person’s body invades another person’s body.

The sexual act becomes “violent” when that invasion is not consensual consistently throughout the interaction.

But is it necessary to illustrate dissatisfaction with the elite by capturing their likenesses in intimate congress?

Does a public grievance demand intimate exposure and public shaming?

Reconciliation: The False Promise of Trudeau's Sunny Ways | The Walrus

Certainly, art can be pretentious, and art galleries and museums intimidating, but within my distaste for pretension and intimidation lies nonetheless a desire to be impressed by the art I see.

Being impressed does not infer being shocked or disgusted, but rather it means that a piece permeates my life because I can see within it a part of myself.

Can the Indigenous truly feel represented by an artist whose (alter)ego is so needy of attention that his works must include a picture of himself in drag?

Kent Monkman on His Alter Ego, Miss Chief Eagle Testickle by The Met on  SoundCloud - Hear the world's sounds

If I see a Cree in pain in a painting and I can identify with that pain as a fellow human being, then chances are strong that I will empathize with that Cree and his pain, and perhaps become motivated to alleviate the pain that his people feel.

If I can see myself in that Cree then I can identify with his problems and begin to care about his maltreatment in a manner that suggests my outrage at being treated similarly.

I cannot comment for or against the privilege that Monkman has enjoyed, for it is not for me to judge a man by his bank account.

I can only look at his work and decide for myself how I feel about what I see.

I try to separate in my mind the art from the artist.

I am not the sort to burn records should I disagree with a performer’s politics or philosophy.

Burning Records (Demo) by Joël Bourret on SoundCloud - Hear the world's  sounds

Above: US Bible Belt reaction to John Lennon’s 1966 remark:

We’re more popular than Jesus now.

I don’t know which will go first – rock ‘n’ roll or Christianity.”

Is Monkman, his bank balance and renown put aside for the moment, an artist?

Perhaps he is in the sense that he takes classical works and makes them something novel by the insertion of Indigenous figures and stories.

Creativity makes something new.

Why Kent Monkman's Shame and Prejudice exhibition matters more than ever -  The Globe and Mail

Above: Kent Monkman, The Daddies

Monkman’s need for notoriety seems to smack of Oscar Wilde’s famous observation that the only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about.

Wilde in 1882

Above. Oscar Wilde (1854 – 1900)

I can appreciate Rodin without seeing his image in his sculptures.

Rodin-cropped.png

Above: Auguste Rodin (1840 – 1917)

It may sound churlish, but if the art is primarily the image of the artist then how truly original can this art be?

The same could be argued in music.

If the primary attraction to a female performer is her physical appearance then how respected is her actual talent as a musician?

Seduce me with great music not with cleavage and clever make-up.

Touch me (I want your body).jpg

Certainly great artists have painted self-portraits of themselves, but it is not these self-portraits that define their art.

The art of Van Gogh and Da Vinci is far more than their self-portraits.

A head and shoulders portrait of a thirty something man, with a red beard, facing to the left

Above: Self-portrait of Vincent van Gogh (1853 – 1890)

Above: Self-portrait of Leonardo de Vinci (1452 – 1519)

Impress me with the message of the piece and not by the cleverness with which you insert your image into the work.

Creativity hides itself.

Kent Monkman: Miss Chief Eagle Testickle's big New York Adventure |  barczablog

I am not suggesting that Hanky Panky is totally alien from the human experience, but I sincerely doubt that the image of the Prime Minister on his hands and knees eagerly awaiting to be ravished is that common an experience for the average person.

(I may be wrong here, for I have often been accused, despite my age, of being naive.)

kent-monkman-miss-chief-feat

But I am at a loss to comprehend how portraying Trudeau in such a scenario helps convey a message of empathy with anyone.

And how consensual is the forthcoming act truly if it is a spectatacle wherein the victim is laughed at?

I doubt the average person, regardless of gender or sexual preference, can identify with humiliation as part of the sexual act.

(Again, I confess to a lack of worldliness in this regard.)

Kent Monkman and Miss Chief | Queer Culture Collection

As Hanky Panky seems so distant from average life (or at least my own life) I find it hard to identify it as a work of art.

Creativity permeates life.

(In fairness, perhaps Hanky Panky is a reflection of Monkman’s life, but it certainly does not reflect my own.)

Kent Monkman issues apology for painting that depicts the 'sexual assault'  of Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau | The Art Newspaper

Where I do sympathize with Monkman is how all artistic expression is risky.

One hopes that one will be loved for their efforts, but public perception is a fickle thing.

It hinges on the culture wherein the art is expressed.

It hinges on the Zeitgeist (spirit of the times) of when it is expressed.

It hinges on the mood of the moment.

Why Art World Protests Against Israel Are Wrong-artnet News

A truism attributed to Abraham Lincoln seems appropos here:

You can be loved by all of the people some of the time.

You can be loved by some of the people all of the time.

But you will never ever be loved by all of the people all of the time.

An iconic photograph of a bearded Abraham Lincoln showing his head and shoulders.

Above: Abraham Lincoln (1809 – 1865)

Rejection is part and parcel of the artist’s life.

And rejection is painful.

Rejection can break one’s heart.

Creativity can break your heart.

The Bee Gees - How Can You Mend a Broken Heart?.jpg

Where Hanky Panky fails me is that love seems lacking in this canvas.

The spectator doesn’t feel sorry for the Prime Minister, doesn’t sympathize with his prospective ravager, doesn’t empathize with the Indigenous that surround him.

When I view Hanky Panky (which I decidedly will not after this blogpost is completed) I feel no sadness for anyone portrayed in this work.

I feel no love for the Prime Minister, no love in the eyes of Miss Chief Eagle, no love or sympathy in the expressions of those that laugh at his humbled state.

If I cannot see the love in the art, then I cannot feel love for the art.

Creativity is a kind of love.

Finally, and what has inspired this post today, I am left to consider the words of an another blogger whom I follow as a regular reader.

On 5 June 2020, Mitch Teemley wrote:

Mitch Teemley (@SuburbanBard) | Twitter

Above: Mitch Teemley

Together.

The word literally means “to gather“.

A scary thought these days, but that is what makes public art public:

People experiencing art together.

All art wants to be seen, of course.

It invites us to come and see it, but public art can’t wait.

It comes to us.

It seeks an audience to please or taunt or tease….

Together.

It interacts with us and in the process dares us to interact with each other….

Again.

Scary thought, yes, but a necessary one.

True, we can treat each other inhumanly – just witness current news – but we also can’t be fully human without each other.

So let’s listen to the message of public art and (cautiously) gather….

Together.

Above: Leonardo da Vinci, Mona Lisa

Teemley goes on to quote famous artists, of whom I shall quote three:

Art should comfort the disturbed and disturb the comfortable.” (Banksy)

Art enables us to find ourselves and lose ourselves at the same time.” (Thomas Merton)

TMertonStudy.jpg

Above: Thomas Merton (1915 – 1968)

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.” (Edgar Degas)

Edgar Degas self portrait 1855.jpeg

Above. Self-portrait, Edgar Degas (1834 – 1917)

So, let us look at Hanky Panky through the perspectives of Teemley, Banksy, Merton and Degas.

Teemley speaks of public art.

But here’s the thing:

Much of Monkman’s work is held in private collections, which leads me to ask Porter’s aforementioned question:

Who is Monkman’s art for?

Does he seek public adulation or is he primarily and exclusively interested in the wallets of grinning white gay men?

If the sensitivity of the general public does not matter to Monkman, then can he content with only a select few viewing his work?

Above: Kent Monkman, Salon Indien, 2006, installation with silent film theatre, part of Remix: New Modernities in a Post-Indian World, Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO), 2009.

Teemley speaks of the togetherness that art creates.

If anything Monkman’s piece creates contention and division.

He fails to capture the commonality of the human experience and instead has reduced the tragedy of First Nations and the challenges of the LGBT community to mere banality not even worthy of the name of graffiti or even evocative pornography.

Above: Théâtre de cristal, Valencian Museum of Ethnology, temporary exhibition “Beyond Hollywood: American Indian identities

Banksy speaks of art as comfort to the disturbed.

But I ask how does Hanky Panky comfort anyone?

PAINTING — Kent Monkman

Above: Kent Monkman, Study for the examination

Banksy speaks of art as disturbing to the comfortable.

But besides the shock value of the Prime Minister about to be ravaged, I see no discomfort invoked upon we the complacent as to the plight of either Indigenous or LGBT people.

Honour Dance, 2020 - Kent Monkman - WikiArt.org

Above. Kent Monkman, Honour Dance

Merton speaks of art as simultaneously causing us to both find and lose ourselves within it.

Here, I will acknowledge that my inability to find and lose myself in Monkman’s work may not be totally Monkman’s fault, but this inability is nonetheless responsible for my not liking his work.

Curatorial Tour: Kent Monkman – Art Museum at the University of Toronto

Above: Kent Monkman, The Bears of Confederation

Degas speaks of art making others see.

And this is where I feel Monkman has fallen short of the ideal mark.

His art has shown me only the notoriety of shock not the power of what a piece can be.

The allegory of painting, 2015 by Kent Monkman :: The Collection :: Art  Gallery NSW

Above: Kent Monkman, The Allegory of Painting

If there is a message I would like to express to artists, in whatever medium in which they choose to express themselves and their vision, it would be this:

Perhaps protest through art is a good and noble thing, but unless the art provokes goodness and nobility then the expression of protest is empty and vapid.

And frankly I have better things to do with my life than to waste it on a void.

The Incredible Rightness of Mischief – Border Crossings Magazine

Above: Kent Monkman, Iron Horse

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Dean Baquet, “In America, protest is patriotic“, New York Times, 4 June 2020 / Eric Kaplan, “Five theses on creativity“, New York Times, 4 June 2020 / Catherine Porter, “Indigenous painter, contentious painting“, New York Times, 5 June 2020 / Mitch Teemley, “Experience art – together“, https://mitchteemley.wordpress.com, 5 June 2020 / http://www.kentmonkman.com

Howard Levitt: Why I couldn't resist buying Monkman's notorious 'Hanky Panky'  painting | National Post

Up from Africa

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Saturday 5 December 2020

Jambo (hello).

Kenya beckons the traveller with a magical mix of incredible wildlife, rich cultural heritage, palm-fringed beaches and coastal towns seeped in Swahili history.

Flag of Kenya

Above: Flag of Kenya

Few places can rival Kenya for the safari experience, though these days your big game hunting will thankfully be restricted to capturing trophies on film.

Nothing can prepare you for the incredible sight of the annual migration of the wildebeest and wherever you lay your head you will be romanced by the star-studded night sky and your imagination stirred by the noises of the African night.

Take a safari – by minibus, 4WD, truck, camel, small plane or hot air balloon.

Experience the wildebeest mass migration – the sight and sound of a million hoofs on the move with a host of eager predators in hot pursuit.

Wind down a notch or ten with a lazy spell in otherworldly Lamu.

Lamu is an island off the coast in the Indian Ocean.

Kenya Pictures, Photos of the Lamu Archipelago

Lamu Town is also Kenya’s oldest inhabited town that has barely changed in appearance or character over the centuries.

Access is exclusively by boat from the mainland or from nearby Manda Island where there is an airstrip.

The only car on Lamu is owned by the District Commander.

The streets are far too narrow and winding to accommodate anything other than pedestrains and donkeys.

Lamu, Lamu Island, Kenya.jpg

Above: Lamu Town, Lamu Island, Kenya

There are probably more dhows here than anywhere else along the East African coast.

The beach at Shela remains majestic and uncluttered.

Lamu is so relaxing that many travellers never leave, “an island hideaway, the place a rebirth from life’s demise, where the world is still“.

One of the most outstanding features of the houses in Lamu Town is the intricately carved doors and lintels, which have kept generations of carpenters busy.

Sadly, many of the doors have disappeared in recent years, but the skill has not been lost – there are door carving workshops in the northern end of town.

Carved Swahili doors made in the wood workshops of Lamu Town (Kenya)  indicate the wealth and status of … | Wooden house doors, Wooden main door  design, Carved doors

Lamu Museum is an excellent introduction to the culture and history of Lamu.

Lamu Museum - Magical Kenya

Above: Lamu Museum

If this stokes your interest in Swahili culture, then visit the Swahili House Museum.

Swahili House Museum | Interior view of visitors bathing area with  decorative carvings on adjacent wall | Archnet

Above: Inside the Swahili House Museum

The massive fort at the main square was built by the Sultan of Paté Island nearby between 1810 and 1823.

It now houses the Lamu Fort Environmental Museum, complete with a library and aquarium.

Of interest to Teutonic philateists (stamp collectors) is the German Post Office Museum.

Events and Festivals – Beads Safaris Collection

The Lamu Donkey Sanctuary is also worth a visit.

Lamu Donkey Sanctuary - Picture of Lamu Old Town, Lamu Island - Tripadvisor

Take the Nairobi – Mombasa (from the capital to the coast) night train for a taste of the old colonial experience.

Africa's epic ride: Nairobi to Mombasa by rail - G Adventures

To truly get Kenya under your skin, you need to read Karen Blixen’s epic settler account, Out of Africa, a memoir by the Danish author.

OutOfAfrica.jpg

The book, first published in 1937, recounts events of the 17 years when Blixen (née Dinesen) made her home in Kenya, then called British East Africa.

The book is a lyric meditation on Blixen’s life on her coffee plantation, as well as a tribute to some of the people who touched her life there.

It provides a vivid snapshot of African colonial life in the last decades of the British Empire.

Blixen wrote the book in English and then rewrote it in Danish.

Karen Blixen cropped from larger original.jpg

Above. Baroness Karen Blixen (1885 – 1962)

Blixen moved to Kenya in late 1913, at the age of 28, to marry her second cousin, the Swedish Baron Bror von Blixen-Finecke, and make a life in the British colony.

The young Baron and Baroness bought farmland below the Ngong Hills about ten miles (16 km) southwest of Nairobi, which at the time was still shaking off its rough origins as a supply depot on the Uganda Railway.

The Blixens had planned to raise dairy cattle, but Bror developed their farm as a coffee plantation instead.

It was managed by Europeans, including, at the start, Karen’s brother Thomas  – but most of the labour was provided by “squatters.”

Above: Karen Blixen and her brother Thomas Dinesen on the family farm in Kenya in the 1920s

This was the colonial term for local Kikuyu tribespeople who guaranteed the owners 180 days of labour in exchange for wages and the right to live and farm on the uncultivated lands which, in many cases, had simply been theirs before the British arrived and stole them.

When the First World War drove coffee prices up, the Blixen family invested in the business and in 1917 Karen and Bror expanded their holdings to six thousand acres (24 km²).

The new acquisitions included the site of the house which features so prominently in Out of Africa.

Above: Blixen’s African home, now the Karen Blixen Museum

The Blixens’ marriage started well – Karen and Bror went on hunting safaris which Karen later remembered as paradisiacal. 

File:Bror-von-Blixen-Finecke-and-Eva-Dickson-in-Africa-142440062571.jpg -  Wikimedia Commons

But it was not ultimately successful:

Bror, a talented hunter and a well liked companion, was an unfaithful husband and a poor businessman who squandered much of the money to be invested in the farm.

In 1921 the couple separated and in 1925 they were divorced.

Bror Blixen's 'Loan' Rifle / Westley Richards

Karen took over the management of the farm on her own.

She was well suited to the work – fiercely independent and capable, she loved the land and liked her native workers.

But the climate and soil of her particular tract was not ideal for coffee-raising.

The farm endured several unexpected dry years with low yields as well as a pestilence of grasshoppers one season – and the falling market price of coffee was no help.

The farm sank further and further into debt until, in 1931, the family corporation forced her to sell it.

The buyer, Remi Martin, who planned to carve it into residential plots, offered to allow Blixen to stay in the house.

She declined, and returned to Denmark.

Red with a white cross that extends to the edges of the flag; the vertical part of the cross is shifted to the hoist side

Above: Flag of Denmark

Blixen moved back to the family’s estate of Rungstedlund and lived there the rest of her life.

Above: Karen Blixen’s grave in Rungstenlund, Denmark

There she took up again the writing career that she had begun, but abandoned, in her youth.

In 1934 she published a fiction collection, Nine Tales, now known as Seven Gothic Tales, and in 1937 she published her Kenyan memoir, Out of Africa.

The book’s title was likely derived from the title of a poem, “Ex Africa” she had written in 1915, while recuperating in a Danish hospital from her fight with syphilis.

The poem’s title is probably an abbreviation of the famous ancient Latin adage (credited to sages from Aristotle to Pliny to Eradmus) Ex Africa semper aliquid novi, which translates as “Out of Africa, always something new.

Listen to benga, the contemporary dance music of Kenya, by Shirati Jazz, Victoria Kings and Them Mushrooms.

Shirati Jazz; Benga Beat by Daniel Owino Misiani and Shirati Jazz Band  (Album, Benga): Reviews, Ratings, Credits, Song list - Rate Your Music

The Victoria Kings - Mighty Kings of Benga / Various - Amazon.com Music

Jambo Bwana - Them Mushrooms - YouTube

(The Luo of Kenya have long played an eight-string lyre called nyatiti and guitarists from the area sought to imitate the instrument’s syncopated melodies.

Above: Nyatiti

In benga, the electric bass guitar is played in a style reminiscent of the nyatiti.

70's Fender Jazz Bass.png

Above: An electric bass guitar

As late as the turn of the 20th century, this bass in nyatiti supported the rhythm essential in transmitting knowledge about society through music.)

Winyo: Benga & Traditional Music from Kenya - YouTube

Watch Robert Redford and Meryl Streep in the big screen version of Out of Africa, as well as the equally emotional screen translation of Kiki Guillman’s I Dreamed of Africa.

Hollywood Sign (Zuschnitt).jpg

In the 1985 film version of Out Of Africa, Karen Blixen (Meryl Streep) recalls her past life in Africa where she moved in 1913 as an unmarried wealthy Danish woman.

Out of africa poster.jpg

After having been being spurned by her Swedish nobleman lover, she asks his brother Baron Bror Blixen (Klaus Maria Brandauer) to get married out of mutual convenience, and they move to the vicinity of Nairobi.

Above: Blixen coat-of-arms

Using her funds, he is to set up a cattle ranch, with her joining him a few months later, at which time they will marry.

En route to Nairobi, her train is hailed by a big game hunter by the name of Denys Finch Hatton (Robert Redford) who knows her fiancé and entrusts his haul of ivory to her.

Bror Blixen, Prince Edward & Denys Finch-Hatton.jpg

Above: Baron Bror Blixen, Edward Prince of Wales and Denys Finch-Hatton on safari in Kenya 1928

She is greeted at the train station by Farah (Malick Bowens), the Somali headman hired by Bror, who is nowhere to be found.

Out of Africa -- Farah and *Msabu* -- Theirs is the true love story, I  think. "You must make this fire very big so I… | Out of africa, Africa  fashion, Meryl streep

Above: Farah and Karen, Out of Africa

She is taken to the recently founded Muthaiga Club.

She enters the men-only bar to ask for her husband and, because of her gender, is asked to leave.

Karen Blixen's House in "Out of Africa" - Hooked on Houses

Karen and Bror marry before the day is out, with her becoming Baroness Blixen.

She then learns that Bror has changed their agreed-upon plan, and has spent her money on establishing a coffee farm.

She quickly learns that the farm is at too high an elevation to offer much of a chance of success.

She needs Bror’s help in building and managing this farm, but his interest is more in guiding game hunting safaris than in farming and he refuses.

Baron Bror von Blixen-Finecke Swedish Baron, Writer & African Big Game  Hunter | Book authors, Big game hunting, Big game

Karen comes to love Africa and the African people, and is taken in by the breathtaking view of the nearby Ngong Hills and the Great Rift Valley beyond.

Meanwhile, she looks after the Kikuyu people who are squatting on her land.

Among other things, she establishes a school, looks after their medical needs, and arbitrates their disputes.

She also tries to establish a formal European homelife on par with the other upper class colonists in the area.

Movie Project: OUT OF AFRICA

Meanwhile, she becomes friends with a young woman, Felicity (Suzanna Hamilton).

Felicity-2-511x288 | Out of africa, Africa, In and out movie

Eventually, Karen and Bror develop feelings for each other.

But Bror continues to pursue other sexual relationships as their marriage was still based on convenience.

Karen Blixen's House in "Out of Africa" - Hooked on Houses

As the First World War reaches East Africa, the colonists form a militia led by the colonial patriarch Lord Delamere (Michael Gough), which includes Denys and Bror among their number.

A military expedition sets out in search of the forces from the neighboring German colony of German East Africa.

Responding to the militia’s need for supplies, Karen leads a difficult expedition to find them and returns safely.

Lord Delamere by Alex Zeverijn | Kenya, Portrait photography, Historical  photos

Above: the actual Lord Delamere (1870 – 1931)

Shortly after the end of the war, Denys acquires a Gipsy Moth biplane and often takes Karen flying.

In the evenings during his visits she makes up exotic and imaginative stories to entertain him.

Karen discovers that Bror has given her syphilis.

As she is unable to receive proper treatment in Nairobi, she returns to Denmark for treatment and recuperation and Bror agrees to manage the farm while she is away.

When she returns, now unable to bear children, Bror resumes his safari work and they begin to live separately.

The relationship between Karen and Denys develops and he comes to live with her.

Karen Blixen's House in "Out of Africa" - Hooked on Houses

Karen and Bror get a divorce on the grounds of Bror’s infidelity.

When Karen learns that Denys has taken one of her female acquaintances on a private safari, Karen comes to realize that Denys does not share her desire for a monogamous, domestic relationship.

He assures her that when he is with her he wants to be with her, and states that a marriage is immaterial to their relationship.

Eventually, this drives them apart and, refusing to be tied down, he moves out.

Pin on Quotables from books and movies

The farm eventually yields a good harvest, but a fire destroys much of the farm and factory, forcing her to sell out.

Free State fires: Farmer 'critically burnt' as battle to control blaze  continues

She prepares for her departure from Kenya to Denmark by appealing to the incoming governor to provide land for her Kikuyu workers to allow them to stay together, and by selling most of her remaining possessions at a rummage sale.

Denys visits the now-empty house and Karen comments that the house should have been so all along and, as with her other efforts, the returning of things to their natural state is as it should be.

Denys says that he was just getting used to her things.

Karen Blixen's House in "Out of Africa" - Hooked on Houses

As he is about to depart for a safari scouting trip in his airplane, they agree that the following Friday he will return and fly her to Mombasa, with Karen then continuing on to Denmark.

Out of Africa

Friday comes and Denys does not appear.

Bror then arrives to tell her that Denys’ biplane has crashed and burned in Tsavo.

Too Close to the Sun: The Audacious Life and Times of Denys Finch Hatton by  Sara Wheeler

During Denys’ funeral Karen recites an excerpt of a poem by A.E. Housmann about a lauded athlete dying young who, as with Denys, is not fated to decline into old age.

Photo portrait by E. O. Hoppé, 1910

Above: A.E. (Albert Edward) Housman (1859 – 1936)

Later, as she is about to depart, she goes to the Muthaiga Club to complete arrangements for forwarding any mail.

The members, who have come to admire her, invite her into the men-only bar for a toast.

Out of Africa (10/10) Movie CLIP - Karen Says Goodbye (1985) HD - YouTube

At the train station, she says goodbye to Farah, then turns back to ask him to say her name so she can hear his voice one last time.

She was never to return to Africa.

Out Of Africa | Leaving Africa (ft. Meryl Streep, Robert Redford, Klaus  Maria Brandauer) - YouTube

I Dreamed of Africa is a 2000 American biographical drama film directed by Hugh Hudson, starring Kim Basinger and Vincent Perez, Eva Marie Saint, Garrett Strommen, Liam Aiken and Daniel Craig.  

It is based on the autobiographical novel I Dreamed of Africa by Kuki Gallmann, an Italian writer who moved to Kenya and became involved in conservation work. 

It was screened at the 2000 Cannes Film Festival.

This film was both a commercial and critical failure.

I Dreamed of Africa Poster.jpg

Eat nyama choma (“roasted meat“) of any shape or form, but usually goat.

Kenyan Nyama Choma (Roast Meat) - International Cuisine

Drink Tusker – the elephant beer.

Tusker (beer) - Wikiwand

This is the land of spear-bearing Massai warriors, wiry marathon runners, strong-blend coffee, man-eating lions, gin-soaked colonials, and…..

Nairobbery.

Nairobbery: Nine ways to stay safe in city centre – Nairobi News

Nairobbery: where you go to get your cash stolen

Nairobbery is used in reference to Nairobi’s high crime rate, with carjackings at gunpoint its notorious claim to fame.

nairobbery - Men's Premium T-Shirt | African.nl Webshop

For tourists, Kenya’s traffic-clogged capital, Nairobi, has traditionally been a short, overnight stop in a secure hotel compound before heading on out to some of East Africa’s most renowned safari parks and Indian Ocean beaches.

Like other major cities in sub-Saharan African, from Lagos to Accra and Johannesburg, crime, scams and other urban hassles have scared away many visitors.

The nickname “Nairobbery” does little to help the image of Kenya’s unruly capital.

Clockwise from top: Central business district, Nairobi National Park, Parliament of Kenya, Nairobi City Hall and the Kenyatta International Conference Centre

Above: Images of Nairobi

That could be changing.

The region is witnessing rising visitor numbers and hotel building in metropolitan areas, driven heavily by the increased spending power and travel habits of Africa’s growing middle class.

On 26 May 2013, Nairobi visitors enjoyed the city’s first historical walking tours.

Nairobi Heritage Tours - Home | Facebook

Two-hour trips now pass by the 1950s parliament buildings, Khoja Mosque and a bronze statue of Kenya’s founding president, Jomo Kenyatta.

Nairobi Parliament Building Kenya Africa

Above: Parliament Buildings

Khoja Mosque, Nairobi Kenya | Kenya, Nairobi, East africa

Above: Statue of Jomo Kenyatta, Father of the Nation

(Jomo Kenyatta (1897 – 1978) was a Kenyan anti-colonial activist and politician who governed Kenya as its Prime Minister (1963 – 1964) and then as its first President from 1964 to his death in 1978.

He was the country’s first indigenous head of government and played a significant role in the transformation of Kenya from a colony of the British Empire into an independent republic.

Kenyatta was a controversial figure.

Prior to Kenyan independence, many of its white settlers regarded him as an agitator and malcontent, although across Africa he gained widespread respect as an anti-colonialist.

During his presidency, he was given the honorary title of Mzee and lauded as the Father of the Nation, securing support from both the black majority and the white minority with his message of reconciliation.

Conversely, his rule was criticised as dictatorial, authoritarian and neo-colonial, of favouring Kikuyu over other ethnic groups, and of facilitating the growth of widespread corruption.)

Jomo Kenyatta 1966-06-15.jpg

Above. President Kenyatta, 1966

There is so much in Nairobi, but we haven’t bothered to shine a light on it,” said Mutheu Mbondo, an organiser.

“Kenya’s colonial and post-colonial history is written into the fabric of the city.

It’s a shame that the tourists just skip it.

Sharon Kyungu, spokesperson for the National Museums of Kenya, said the tours “offer visitors something more than just beaches and wildlife” and will help it compete with Africa’s destination cities, such as Cairo and Cape Town.

Top 25 fun places to visit in Nairobi - HapaKenya

Walking tours have proved a hit in more tourist-friendly cities.

London visitors are escorted by guides dressed as the fictional sleuth, Sherlock Holmes, while themed tours of New York focus on sights from television shows, such as Sex and the City and Seinfeld.

Car Rental New York City and the Sex and the City Tour

Francis Wambalaba, an economist at Nairobi’s United States International University, said walking tours should kick-start broader efforts to open up historic sites, eateries and bars in a city of more than three million people.

USIU Africa Logo.png

The city’s giraffe and elephant sanctuaries already attract small crowds.

Giraffe Centre in nairobi - nairobi attractions, kenya safari

World Elephant Day from David Sheldrick's Elephant Orphanage, Nairobi,  Kenya – Life of Hy

But there are so many other hidden treasures,” said Wambalaba.

Our parliament’s architecture, the bombed-out remains of the US embassy.

Kenya bombing 1.jpg

Above: Aftermath of the US Embassy bombing, 7 August 1988

(The US Embassy in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania was also bombed the same day.)

Above: Memorial park at the site of the embassy in Nairobi

1998 United States embassy bombings - Wikiwand

Coffee plantations in the suburbs could be our version of wine-tasting tours.

The lack of tourists in this city starves us of important cultural exchanges.

Above: Karen Blixen Museum

John Kester, who analyses travel industry trends for the UN’s World Tourism Organization, said that plans to get holidaymakers to spend a few days in Nairobi and other African cities were more than just wishful thinking.

Sub-Saharan Africa received more than 34 million international visitors last year, a 5.2% increase from 2011.

Almost half of these hail from within the continent, added Kester, driven by economic growth.

Nigerians, for example, spent more than $6bn on international travel last year, compared to less than $1bn in 2005.

World Tourism Organization Logo.svg

The International Monetary Fund (IMF) predicts that sub-Saharan Africa’s economy will continue to grow.

International Monetary Fund logo.svg

African cities are better connected nowadays, thanks to airports in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Qatar, added Kester.

In May 2013, an Ethiopian Airlines 787 Dreamliner flew from Addis Ababa to Nairobi, its first commercial flight since all 787s were grounded in January 2013.

Ethiopian Airlines Logo.svg

Much of the growth is business hotels in regional trade hubs such as Nairobi.

South Africa, the region’s holiday heavyweight, saw an 18% rise in tourism receipts in 2012.

Flag of South Africa

Above. Flag of South Africa

Transport and other infrastructure built for the 2010 soccer World Cup continue to boost arrival figures and helped open up destination cities including Johannesburg, Durban and Bloemfontein.

South Africa has diversified a tourism product in which wildlife-spotting, scenery, beaches and cities all play a role,” said Kester.

Other African destinations have a similar opportunity to increase their profile by marketing cities as a side attraction to the holiday.”

2010 FIFA World Cup.svg

Tourism revenues have shown their worth by helping to regenerate cities in other parts of the developing world, he added.

Look at the refurbishment that is taking place in crumbling Havana, because tourism is such a big sector there,” said Kester.

Havana at night

Above: Havana (Habana), Cuba at night

Improvements in central Bogota are seen elsewhere in Latin America.

Centro internacional.JPG
Above: Bogotá, Colombia

In Seoul they opened up a river and pedestrian area that used to be under an eight-lane highway.

Above: Seoul, South Korea

Back in Nairobi, James Asudi runs a travel firm called Victoria Safaris that has already imported ideas from South Africa.

He started showing tourists around Kibera, Kenya’s biggest slum, in 2005, after seeing similar trips offered in a Cape Town ghetto.

Nowadays he has ten guides working the overcrowded slum, and other firms offer tourists warts-and-all trips that showcase open sewers, close-up poverty and charities working to raise living standards in the metal-roofed huts.

Although the ghetto trips are just add-ons to more traditional tours of the Maasai Mara and other safari parks, Asudi notes growing interest among visitors to spend a bit more time – and money – in the much-maligned capital.

Above: Kibera

Tourism is changing from wildlife to humans,” he said.

We’ve got groups booked that won’t visit a single game park. They want to see the markets, culture, slums, villages.

Instead of eating in hotels, they want to eat ugali, nyama choma and other local food that we Africans eat.”

A walking tour of Kibera Slums - Nairobi - Picture of Victoria Safaris -  Day Tours, Nairobi - Tripadvisor

Above: Walking tour through Kibera

Above: Ugali (a type of maize flour porridge) and sukama wiki (collard greens cooked with onions and spices), staples of Kenyan cuisine

Tourism in Kenya is the second-largest source of foreign exchange revenue following agriculture.

The Kenya Tourism Board is responsible for maintaining information pertaining to tourism in Kenya.

Kenya Tourism Board Logo Vector - (.SVG + .PNG) - SearchLogoVector.Com

 

The main tourist attractions are photo safaris through the 60 national parks and game reserves.

10 Best Kenya Safari Tours: Our Top Picks | Go2Africa

Other attractions include:

  • the wildebeest migration at the Masaai Mara (this migration is considered to be the 7th wonder of Africa)
Everything You Need to Know About The Great Wildebeest Migration | Asilia  Africa

  • historical mosques
Jamia MOSQUE IN NAIROBI – KENYA | Beautiful Mosques Gallery around the  world | Beautiful mosques, Mosque, Mosque architecture

Above: Jamia Mosque, Nairobi

  • Colonial-era forts at Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu
Fort JesusMombasa.jpg

Above: Fort Jesus, Mombasa Island

Fort Jesus - Picture of Malindi, Coast Province - Tripadvisor

Above: Malindi Fort

  • renowned scenery such as the white-capped Mount Kenya and the Great Rift Valley
Mount Kenya.jpg

Above: Mount Kenya

Above: Great Rift Valley

  • tea plantations at Kericho

Above: Tea country, Kericho

  • coffee plantations at Thika
Kenya Coffee Farm Becomes Haven for Vulnerable Women | CRS

  • a splendid view of Mount Kilimanjaro across the border into Tanzania
Mount Kilimanjaro.jpg

Above: Mount Kilimanjaro

  • the beaches along the Swahili Coast, in the Indian Ocean.

Swahili Beach Resort buchen - Diani Beach - JAHN REISEN

Tourists, the largest number being from Germany and the UK, are attracted mainly to the coastal beaches and the game reserves, notably, the expansive Tsavo East and Tsavo West National Parks.

Ecotourism is the responsible travel of people to natural areas while maintaining a high priority of the conservation of the host country’s environment and local community’s lifestyles.

This differs from mass tourism, which is a more organized and mainstream movement of larger numbers of people to specialized locations, or “popular destinations”, such as resorts. 

Mass tourism is often offered in package deals where the tourist can purchase a plane ticket, hotel, activities, food, etc. from one single company.

This type of tourism is usually not concerned with environmental impact or climate change and puts business and revenue as its top priority, whereas the main goal of ecotourism is to make minimal impact on local communities while improving their state of well-being.

The rise of ecotourism has annually increased by 10 – 15% worldwide, and 20% of that tourism accounts for travel to the global south, with a 6% increase each year in tourism specifically to third world countries.

Kenya’s wildlife and unique landscapes have attracted a growth in ecotourism, and much of its economy is now primarily sustained by foreign revenue brought in by tourism, causing a myriad of positive and negative impacts to its culture, ecosystems, and the lifestyles of its local people.

Above: Masai guide sharing his vast knowledge

Kenya has considerable land area devoted to wildlife habitats, including the Masai Mara, where blue wildebeest and other bovids participate in a large-scale annual migration.

More than one million wildebeest and 200,000 zebras participate in the migration across the Mara River.

The “Big Five” game animals of Africa (lion, leopard, buffalo, rhinoceros, elephant) can be found in Kenya and in the Masai Mara in particular.

Maasai Mara scenery

A significant population of other wild animals, reptiles, and birds can be found in the national parks and game reserves in the country.

The annual animal migration occurs between June and September, with millions of animals taking part, attracting valuable foreign tourism.

Two million wildebeest migrate a distance of 2,900 kilometres (1,802 mi) from the Serengeti in neighbouring Tanzania to the Masai Mara in Kenya, in a constant clockwise fashion, searching for food and water supplies.

This Serengeti Migration of the wildebeest is listed among the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa. 

For travellers, ecotourism is an attractive alternative to the mass migration of vacationers and offers a more intimate interaction with local nature and culture.

Instead of spending leisure time inside the walls of a resort, ecotourists have a more “real” experience and are able to gain a better appreciation of the world’s natural resources, landscapes, and wildlife.

Ecotourism has also influenced businesses like hotels and lodges to be more environmentally conscientious in terms of recycling and providing eco-friendly products.

Besides majorly boosting the economy in host countries with foreign currency, tourism provides new job opportunities for locals such as tour guiding, craft making and selling, food services, and cultural performances, which in turn help reduce the need for people to resort to unsustainable practices like poaching or over hunting and fishing.

Ruma National Park.jpg

The construction of new medical facilities, cleaner water sources, new roads, and electricity to accommodate incoming tourists simultaneously provides a higher standard of living for the local communities as well.

Ecotourism assists in maintaining the environmental integrity and biodiversity of a country by providing an economic desire to preserve native land and wildlife in the form of reservations and game parks, which aid in the protection of threatened species.

The revenue from park fees, safari tours, camp fees, and local taxes often contribute to conservation work as well.

Rather than the quick fix of monetary donations or handouts, ecotourism potentially offers a more long-term solution to poverty.

The road in Arabuko Sokoke Forest - panoramio.jpg

But….

With the rise of tourism and the subsequent influx in economic opportunity in Kenya, also comes the gradual degradation of its environment and the very ecosystems that are supposedly preserved as the tourists’ main attractions.

The very construction of wildlife preservations and reserves as a means to conserve environmental biodiversity is, in and of itself, somewhat of a contradiction as it involves the commercial destruction of that unspoiled area to exist. 

Deforestation is a hugely negative impact suffered in the building process of wildlife areas and the various accommodations needed for tourists, such as lodging, campsites, roads for safari tours, outhouses, firewood, etc.

This deforestation not only results in the loss of native flora, but it also causes a dramatic loss of habitat for animal species, resulting in a number of complications.

Without their natural habitat, dislocated animals are forced into surrounding areas, causing crowding and competition between previously unconflicted species.

During times of stress caused by drought or other natural changes, competition for food, shelter, and water becomes intense and the result could be potentially dire for an entire population.

Lack in training of tour guides and lack in ethics and guidelines for tourists contributes to many of the negative impacts ecotourism has had on Kenya’s environment.

Mount Elgon Forest.jpg

In one day in the Maasai Mara National Park there could be up to 200 guide vehicles shuttling upwards of 700 tourists in and out of the park.

Besides the direct effect the trucks have on the soil, causing erosion, compaction, and mud pits, exciting events like the sighting of a leopard could cause major back ups and traffic jams in the middle of the African bush.

Although it is technically against the park rules, tour guides, sometimes encouraged with a bribe from their tourist passengers, will often stray off the designated dirt paths and onto the vegetation so as to let people get a closer look at the wildlife.

Not only does this harm the plants that are trampled, perhaps leading to a shortage in food supply for a certain animal species that could possibly rely on them for food, but it also poses a major stress for the animal that is being observed, and most likely photographed, by hordes of tourists.

Interaction between humans and wild animals in their natural habitat can lead to a number of unforeseen and unconscious complications.

The mere presence of humans can be sensed by most animals and, although not always visible, can change their physiology and behavior.

The sound of footsteps, an approaching vehicle, or the sight of human being is such a novel stimulus to most animals in the wild that it can cause major shifts in their actions, often resulting in them disrupting their feeding or breeding rituals to either hide or flee, sometimes even abandoning their young in the process.

In some cases, like with passing aircraft often carrying tourists for aerial tours in helicopters or hot air balloons, the intrusion is so alarming that it causes a mass scattering of the animals below, disturbing feeding groups, and in some cases the injury or death of an animal as it tries to flee.

More subtle noises caused by humans and vehicles, those even unable to be heard by the human ear, can still cause major disruption to the delicate signals used by snakes or some nocturnal animals to find prey or navigate, leading them to become confused or lost.

Another problem is caused by the sheer amount of foreign travel in and out of rural villages and reservations that otherwise are not exposed to certain bacteria which can sometimes lead to the introduction of foreign diseases into both human and animal communities.

Most of the negative effects tourism has on wildlife are short term changes in their behavior, but after repeated exposure to human induced stimuli they can become desensitized and habituated with the presence of tourists and lose aspects of their natural behavior, resulting in possible long-term effects to their entire population like reduced breeding or increased mortality.

Apart from the micro-effects of ecotourism on the native ecology of Kenya, the macro-effects of increased human presence in rural areas on the environment substantially contributes to climate change.

For instance, increased air travel and emissions, increased traffic congestion, exhaust from safari tours, and hot air balloon tours all contribute to air pollution.

Proper waste disposal precautions are often not set in place and excess sewage waste is tossed into cattle grazing grounds or rivers, resulting in polluted drinking water.

Although ecotourism is undoubtedly a greener approach to tourism, it still needs to be managed if it is to be sustainable and have a minimal impact on animals, ecosystems, and the environment as a whole.

On 21 September 2013, the world was shocked by terrorist group al-Shabaab’s killing of 67 people in Nairobi’s Westgate Mall.

Smoke above Westgate mall.jpg

But long before al-Shabaab’s brazen mall attack, in retaliation for Kenyan military intervention in Somalia, Nairobi already had a reputation for being one of the most dangerous cities in Africa.

So much so that it has earned the nickname “Nairobbery“.

Armed robberies in broad daylight, rapes, and recently terrorist attacks, and explosions in public spaces, seem to be the order of the day in the Kenyan capital.

Nairobbery: Tricks Con Artists Use to Initiate Newbies into The Capital City

And it’s clear that security measures have greatly increased after the Westgate attack.

Security in the city’s malls, hotels, matatus and compounds has intensified in recent months.

At the entrance to supermarket parking lots, security guards thoroughly check cars.

Kenya's security forces did better this time. But there are still gaps

Commuters are searched for weapons before boarding the buses at rush hour.

At housing compounds, which are protected with electric fences, guards control who goes in and out.

Luxury hotel chains have introduced screening machines, and wherever you go there are signs warning of the presence of surveillance officers from major security firms.

Mercedes, a former employee of the Spanish embassy, does not rely on such security actions and says that “it only intimidates the crooks, but I sincerely doubt that these guards can prevent further attacks”.

List of diplomatic missions of Spain

Above: Spanish Embassy, Nairobi

Radar, Starlight, G4S, Lavington and KK are some of the main private security firms in the city.

A sector with clear benefits thanks to the widespread fear of Nairobi’s residents.

KK Security

Eric is one of many security guards working in the city’s residential compounds.

He is 26, lives in the Kibera slum, and from 0600 to 1800 works as a guard in the Kilimani neighborhood.

The wealthy minority that lives here sleeps in cramped compounds that are monitored around the clock.

A cell phone, a baton and some prayers are this young Kenyan’s inseparable companions.

They give us free training, teach us how to defend ourselves and how to ensure the security measures,” explains Eric.

When you finish the course, you have a job guaranteed and that’s why I decided to devote myself to this.

Eric says sometimes he is afraid because “you never know who may appear.”

But inside the security hut there is an emergency button, which will alert nearby patrol cars.

So if something happens, I know someone would be here soon,” he says.

Kenya's Leading Security Company

While residents in wealthy Nairobi neighborhoods enjoy this type of 24-hour security, the reality in the peri-urban areas is very different.

Kenya’s police to population ratio is 1:1,000, a figure that makes it impossible to combat violence and theft in most of the city, but especially in neighborhoods abandoned by the government, like the slums.

It’s very difficult to live without fear at night in neighborhoods like Kibera,” says the young guard.

Kibera Slum: When Kindness Kills Development |

Most people in Nairobi can not afford a safe house.

Working 12 hours a day, six days a week, Eric says he earns 9,800 Kenyan shillings per month ($113).

But most secure apartments usually cost about 70,000 shillings per month ($810).

I wish I could live in a safer place,” he says, pointing to the electric fence surrounding the apartments he protects.

Unequal Scenes - Nairobi

Above: Unequal neighbourhoods, Nairobi

Not everyone believes that private security companies really work.

I do not feel safe at home.

There are many cases of theft in these compounds.

Sometimes the guards and police are in cahoots.

You can not trust anyone,” says Dorcus, a mother and housewife who lives in the same compound where Eric works.

There are many factors tied to crime in Nairobi: low wages, high unemployment among urban youths, and social segregation between the low and middle- to upper-class.

The corruption that is prevalent among Nairobi’s police doesn’t help either.

Despite terrorist attacks widely publicized as major threats to safety, everyday crime is extensive.

Nairobi worst hit by crime, Isiolo lowest » Capital News

And it’s like Nairobi is two cities in one.

Electrified fences, patrol cars, and armed guards are a reality for those able to afford private properties, while the dangers of living in “Nairobbery” remain very real for the majority of the city’s residents.

Why Kinoti had to disband Flying Squad – Nairobi News: Complaints by  Kenyans and foreigners living in Kenya against flyin… in 2020 | Crime  prevention, Squad, Nairobi county

But does that mean you should avoid Nairobi?

Is it unsafe for tourists?

Twin spikes in terror and crime hit Nairobi - CSMonitor.com

To suggest that there is no crime in Nairobi, that it is all sunshine and roses in Kenya’s capital, would be a falsehood.

There is crime here, just as there is crime in any major city in the world, so precautions one would take in London, Moscow, Chicago or Vienna, one takes when in Nairobi.

Combating Organised Crime in Kenya - ISS Africa

A few basic rules:

  • Never use an ATM after dark.
Hackers are preparing an 'unlimited' ATM cash heist. Here's how to protect  yourself | PBS NewsHour

  • Walk with a friend whenever possible, as muggers move in gangs, single out their victim and surround the person leaving no room for escape. The larger your group, the less likely the attack.
6 Dangerous Gangs Terrorizing Residents of Nairobi - Opera News

  • Avoid dark alleys.
Nairobi Noir: Nairobi Night Life Through a Lens #AfricaSpeaks #TDSvoices -  The Designers Studio

  • Read your surroundings.
  • Stop wearing headphones while walking in the streets. A lot of people are guilty of this. It allows the predator to close in on you without you knowing.

Nairobi's curfew night. ON THE LAST Friday in March, a… | by Tristan  McConnell | Sep, 2020 | Medium

  • Leave your wallet at home. Have budgets for daily expenditures. It allows you to carry the exact amount. It also helps you to being disciplined and avoid overspending.
  • Learn some basic self-defense. It is important to be able to put down an attacker so as to allow you time to escape.
  • Do not use the same route twice. Routines are not good, they make you comfortable and that is what the attacker wants.
  • Avoid crowds that are not familiar to you.

Three shot dead in sustained efforts by police to fight crime – Nairobi News

(I myself have never been mugged, though I have been threatened and have felt danger at times in my travels.

It does help that I am a 194 cm / 6’5″ tall man, but nevertheless I try to never become complacent to my surroundings.)

To avoid Nairobi because of the bad that might happen is to miss the good that the city offers:

Above: Central Park, Nairobi

Every day at 1100 hours, you can watch baby elephants come to the mudhole for a bath and their bottles of milk at the Elephant Orphanage.

The guides will tell you all about each elephant and you can ask as many questions as you like.

Elephant Orphanage and Giraffe Centre Tour in Nairobi 2020

The Giraffe Centre is a breeding centre for Rothschild’s giraffes where you can feed them.

Nairobi Elephant Orphanage and Giraffe Centre Tour 2021

Nairobi National Park is the only national park with free roaming wild animals inside a capital city.

If Nairobi is your point of arrival in Africa, perhaps here you may see your first lion here, black and white rhino, giraffe, buffalo, hippo, zebra, gazelle, or baboon.

The Park does offer visitors a tour in a bus, but being a tour you are restricted by rules and schedules.

Personally, this is my preference, as I assume that the guides know how to interact with the animals encountered better than the average tourist with their own transport.

Nairobi National Park | Kenya Safari Tours | Kenya National Parks

Kazuri is a success story.

The ladies at this workshop all live in Kiberia (Nairobi’s – possibly Africa’s biggest – slums) and most are single mothers.

Kazuri Beads in Germany – Mkenya Ujerumani

They create beads.

By hand.

And paint each bead.

By hand.

And once all these beads have been created. painted and fired in the kilns, they are transformed into the most exquisite jewellery.

Necklaces, bracelets, earrings, hair clips, Christmas tree ornaments….

All created, by hand, in this workshop.

Each different in style and colour.

They make unforgettable souvenirs and great gifts.

And if beaded jewellery isn’t your thing, they also make animal statues and a whole range of crockery.

Kazuri Beads | Shop in Nairobi | Twenzetu

The Marula Studio pays people to bring in rubber flip-flops and other rubber trash, which they turn into colourful, sculpted animals.

Marula Studios (Nairobi) - 2020 All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (with  Photos) - Tripadvisor

Amani ya Juu teaches ladies to make things with fabrics.

Tablet and ipad covers and handbags are the most popular items, with an assortment for Christmas and for kids.

At Matbronze, they make bronze artwork, with an excellent gallery of amazing pieces along with paintings and drawings.

Matbronze Wildlife Art (Nairobi) - 2020 All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go  (with Photos) - Tripadvisor

All things glass are made at Kitengela, a quirky place with lots of art spread around.

You can see the artists at work, have a drink in the café and browse the many things for sale.

Kitengela – Nairobi, Kenya - Atlas Obscura

Sandstorm is a leather and canvas workshop where you can usually pick up a bargain on a beautiful travel bag.

Sandstorm Kenya; For Quality Leather and Canvas B | Pesapal

The Maasai Market and the Triangle Market are for those who love the traditional style souvenirs and don’t mind bargaining for a good price.

A Visit to the Maasai Market in Nairobi - Discover Walks Blog

And, yes, Nairobi has museums.

Besides the aforementioned Out of Africa Blixen house, another museum worth visiting is the Nairobi National Museum.

Their bird collection is impressive as are the hominid fossils.

(Say hello to my relatives!)

National Museums of Kenya unearths a path to the cloud for its collection

As well there is the Railway Museum and the Bomas of Kenya.

Nairobi Railway Museum - Wikipedia

The Bomas is a great one to visit where you can learn more about Kenyan culture and its different tribes in an outdoor setting.

Bomas of Kenya – Nairobi, Kenya - Atlas Obscura

The thing to remember about Kenya is that it is not a uniform country.

It is a nation that surprises, a country of contrasts.

Nairobi’s cosmopolitan population mix and its western-style skyscapers and suburban sprawl exists in the same state as the shadowy, medieval architecture of spice-infused Swahili Lamu and old-town Mombasa and Malindi.

Map of Kenya

If you have ever fantasized about Africa – sleeping in the bush, surrounded by wildlife or walking with tribespeople beneath the broad African sky – then Kenya is for you.

You will also encounter the everyday beauty of African life: the swerving Kenyan matatu (minibus) filled to bursting, careening through the streets of Nairobi, hawkers peddling their wares on the street corner, a truckload of women singing and dancing.

This is a place simply too good to ignore forever.

Too good, but not quite Paradise.

Water resources in Kenya are under pressure from agricultural chemicals, urban and industrial waste, as well as from use for hydroelectric power.

The anticipated water shortage is a potential problem for the future.

For example, the damming of the Omo River by the Gilgel Gibe III Dam, together with the plan to use 30% to 50% of the water for sugar plantations will create significant environmental problems.

Omo Gibe III, Wolayita 3.jpg

It is estimated that up to 50% of Lake Turkana’s water capacity will be lost.

Above: Lake Turkana

Had there been no planning of the irrigation of sugar plantations, the dam itself might have had a net positive effect to the environment, due to the emission-less power generation of the dam.

Water-quality in Kenya has problems in lakes, (including water hyacinth infestation in Lake Victoria), have contributed to a substantial decline in fishing output and endangered fish species.

Above: A hyacinth-choked lakeshore at Ndere Island, Lake Victoria, Kenya

Between 1970 and 1977, Kenya lost more than half of its elephants.

Though elephant hunting has been banned for 40-years in Kenya, poaching has not reduced.

Given the poverty of many of the people and the high value of elephant tusks, they are shipped overseas and sold on the black market.

Although Kenya has many national parks and reserves protecting wildlife, elephant populations are still at risk, a problem which is made worse by corruption and some officials supplementing their income with permitting poaching.

African Elephant (Loxodonta africana) male (17289351322).jpg

In 2020 February, poachers in Kenya killed two white giraffes.

The female white giraffe and her calf were found dead in Garrisa County in the northeast part of the country.

This left the country and the world with only one white male giraffe.

World's only known white giraffe fitted with tracker to deter poachers -  BBC News

Forestry output has also declined because of resource degradation. 

Overexploitation over the past three decades has reduced the country’s timber resources by one-half.

At present only 2% of the land remains forested and an estimated 50 square kilometres of forest are lost each year.

This loss of forest aggravates erosion, the silting of dams, flooding and the loss of biodiversity.

Among the endangered forests are Kakamega Forest, Mau Forest and Karura Forest. 

In response to ecological disruption, activists have pressed with some success for policies that encourage sustainable resource use.

The 2004 Nobel Peace Prize went to the Kenyan environmentalist, Wangeri Maathai, best known for organizing a grassroots movement in which thousands of people were mobilized over the years to plant 30 million trees in Kenya and elsewhere and to protest forest clearance for luxury development.

Imprisoned as an opponent of Moi, Maathai linked deforestation with the plight of rural women, who are forced to spend untold hours in search of scarce firewood and water.

Wangari Maathai in 2001.jpg

Above: Wangari Maathai (1940 – 2011)

(Daniel Toroitich arap Moi (1924 – 2020) was a Kenyan statesman and politician who was the second and longest-serving President of Kenya from 1978 to 2002.

Moi’s regime was deemed as dictatorial and autocratic, especially before 1992 when Kenya was a one-party state.

Human rights organisations, such as Amnesty International, as well as a special investigation by the United Nations, accused Moi of human rights abuses during his presidency.

Inquiries held after the end of his presidency found evidence that Moi and his sons had engaged in significant levels of corruption.)

Daniel arap Moi 1979b.jpg

Above: President Moi, 1979

Widespread poverty in many parts of the country has greatly lead to over-exploitation of the limited resources in Kenya.

Cutting down of trees to create more land for cultivation, charcoal burning business, quarrying among other social and occupational practices are the major threats of environmental degradation due to poverty in rural Kenya.

Littering and the illegal dumping of rubbish is a problem in both urban and rural Kenya.

Almost all urban areas of Kenya have inadequate rubbish collection and disposal systems.

There is the risk of seasonal flooding from July to late August.

In September 2012, thousands of people were displaced in parts of Kenya’s Rift Valley Province as floodwaters submerged houses and schools and destroyed crops.

It was especially dangerous as the floods caused latrines to overflow, contaminating numerous water sources.

The New Humanitarian | Floods displace thousands, destroy crops

Floods can also cause mudslides.

Two children were killed in September 2012 following a mudslide in the Baringo District, which also displaced 46 families.

Landslides displace over 12 families in Baringo - The Standard

Climate change in Kenya is increasingly affecting Kenya’s citizens.

This is having effects on the people living in Kenya, creating water security challenges and putting pressure on major parts of the economy.

At the beginning of 2020, some part of the country was affected by massive locust infestation.

Climatic change impacts such as the increase in temperature and rainfall variability in desert areas, and the strong winds associated with tropical cyclones, offer a conducive environment for pest breeding, development and migration.

Attribution of infestation to climate change is however quite difficult.

Climate projections suggest an increase in temperature of up to 2.5°C between 2000 and 2050, and an increasing frequency of extreme events, such as floods and droughts.

Kenya’s arid and semi-arid lands (ASALs) are hot and dry making them vulnerable to extreme weather changes, such as droughts or flooding.

Moreover, coastal communities are already experiencing sea level rise and associated issues such as saltwater intrusion.

These have impacts on many marginalized or at-risk communities, for example prolonged drought and food insecurity create risk for youth in Kenya.

Kenya’s armed forces, like many government institutions in the country, have been tainted by corruption allegations.

Because the operations of the armed forces have been traditionally cloaked by the ubiquitous blanket of “state security“, the corruption has been hidden from public view, and thus less subject to public scrutiny and notoriety.

This has changed recently.

In what are by Kenyan standards unprecedented revelations, in 2010, credible claims of corruption were made with regard to recruitment and procurement of armoured personnel carriers.

Further, the wisdom and prudence of certain decisions of procurement have been publicly questioned.

Flag of the Kenya Defence Forces.svg

The Economist Intelligence Unit rated Kenya a “hybrid regime” in 2019.

The political terror scale gives the country a rating of 4, meaning that civil and political rights violations have expanded to large numbers of the population.

Murders, disappearances and torture are a common part of life.

In spite of its generality, on this level terror affects those who interest themselves in politics or ideas.

Economist Intelligence Unit logo.png

Child labour is common in Kenya.

Most working children are active in agriculture.

In 2006, UNICEF estimated that up to 30% of girls in the coastal areas of Malindi, Mombasa, Kilifi, and Diani were subject to prostitution.

Most of the prostitutes in Kenya are aged 9–18.

Kenya – Sex Trafficking Prevention – Present Age Ministries

Women were economically empowered before colonialisation.

By colonial land alienation, women lost access and control of land.

They became more economically dependent on men.

A colonial order of gender emerged where males dominated females.

Median age at first marriage increases with increasing education.

Rape, defilement, and battering are not always seen as serious crimes. 

Reports of sexual assault are not always taken seriously.

7 reasons why domestic violence cases have increased in Kenya

Public universities in Kenya are highly commercialised institutions and only a small fraction of qualified high school graduates are admitted on limited government-sponsorship into programs of their choice.

Most are admitted into the social sciences, which are cheap to run, or as self-sponsored students paying the full cost of their studies.

Most qualified students who miss out opt for middle-level diploma programs in public or private universities, colleges, and polytechnics.

38.5% of the Kenyan adult population is illiterate.

Despite its impressive commercial approach and interests in the country, Kenya’s academia and higher education system is notoriously rigid and disconnected from the needs of the local labour market and is widely blamed for the high number of unemployable and “half-baked” university graduates who struggle to fit in the modern workplace.

Homosexual acts are illegal in Kenya and punishable by up to 14 years in prison, though the state often turns a blind eye to prosecuting gay people.

Above: LGBT activists at Cologne (Köln) Pride carrying a banner with the flags of 72 countries where homosexuality is illegal

According to a 2013 survey by the Pew Research Center, 90% of Kenyans believe that homosexuality should not be accepted by society.

Pew Research Center.svg

While addressing a joint press conference together with President Barack Obama in 2015, President Kenyatta declined to assure Kenya’s commitment to gay rights, saying that “the issue of gay rights is really a non-issue.

But there are some things that we must admit we don’t share.

Our culture, our societies don’t accept.

When Obama met Kenyatta - POLITICO

In November 2008, WikiLeaks brought wide international attention to The Cry of Blood report, which documents the extrajudicial killing of gangsters by the Kenyan police.

1Graphic of hourglass, coloured in blue and grey; a circular map of the eastern hemisphere of the world drips from the top to bottom chamber of the hourglass.

In the report, the Kenya National Commission on Human Rights (KNCHR) reported in their key finding that forced disappearances and extrajudical killings appear to be official policy sanctioned by the political leadership and the police.

Kenya National Commission on Human Rights | Land Portal

Despite (or perhaps because of) its problems, Kenya is determined that it will not be ignored.

Giant translucent balloons will soon be floating above the savannahs and mountains of Kenya in an ambitious attempt to bring Internet access to millions in rural communities.

The inflatables, which have been likened to immense jellyfish, will be launched in America and remotely piloted at a height of 12 miles to the East African state within the “next few weeks“, President Kenyatta announced.

Early testing of the Loon balloons, a joint venture between Google’s parent company Alphabet and Telkom Kenya, caused pandemonium.

The letters of "Alphabet" colored in red

Telkom Kenya Contacts | How to Contact Telkom Kenya

Crops were crushed when a few balloons crash-landed, though far more damage was done by thousands of people tramping across fields for a closer look.

Above: Google transreceiver, Miraa farm field, Igembe Central, Meru County, Kenya, 29 December 2017

The lack of affordable and reliable broadband is a central obstacle to the ambitions of African businesses.

Though Kenya’s metropolitan centres are well-connected, many of its population of 50 million remain “unserved or underserved” in towns and villages where there are too few people to support the building of signal equipment on the ground.

Instead, the Loon system hangs antennas from 39-foot balloons, which are filled with helium and rise twice as high as planes fly.

This helps them to avoid weather problems and wildlife.

Kenya Approves Google's Loon Internet Project - Kenyan Wallstreet

Stations have been built in Nairobi and two other cities to send signals from local Internet providers up to the balloons.

These signals are then fed back to the targeted areas, in the style of satellite communication.

Each device can provide Internet coverage over 2,000 square miles and stay aloft for months, monitored from Silicon Valley, California.

Google's Project Loon partnership with Telkom Kenya approved by  telecommunications regulator | Innov8tiv

Kenya: Bringing connectivity to rural areas using Loon internet-delivering  balloons

Solar collectors power the equipment during the day and charge a battery to run the system at night.

The polyethylene inflatables have a shelf life of about 100 days, when a parachute self-deploys to guide them down to the ground.

Alphabet's internet balloons remain grounded in Kenya | Financial Times

President Kenyatta finally signed off the deal after approval was granted from the aviation authority and the ministry of transport.

Neighbouring Uganda also had to sign an airspace agreement since the balloons may float above its stratosphere to bring connectivity to border communities.

Kenya is the first African country to sign a deal for the technology and other African states will be keen to see if it will be a success, though the solar-powered kit’s reliance on sunshine makes it suitable for only some parts of the world.

Telkom Kenya and Project Loon to Fastrack Rollout of 4G Internet Balloons -  Dignited

Project Loon was launched in 2011 after Google came up with several outlandish ideas for reaching places that are underserved by high-speed Internet.

Loon (company) logo.svg

Kenya has long been a pioneer of new technology and its capital, which styles itself Silicon Savannah, is often the first choice for investment by international technology companies over South Africa, the continent’s most industrialized economy.

Silicon Savannah is Overrated – SOPHISTICATED IGNORANCE

According to Project Loon:

  • 50% of Earth’s landmass lacks coverage from traditional terrestrial Internet infrastructure.
  • 3.8 billion people (about half of humanity) don’t have access to the Internet and many more lack adequate access.
  • Connectivity is crucial after a natural disaster. It is a lifeline that enables those affected to reach out for help, to coordinate logistics and supplies, and to reconnect families and friends in the moments that matter most.

Google to extend Loon's balloon-based 4G service from Kenya to Uganda -  Africa Briefing

Much like it has been for the rest of the planet, 2020 has not been a perfect year for Kenya.

Kenya (orthographic projection).svg

The Camp Simba attack was a pre-dawn attack at Manda Air Strip on Camp Simba on 5 January 2020.

The camp is used by Kenyan and US troops and is located near Manda Bay on the mainland of Lamu County, Kenya.

US Military Base at Camp Simba Manda Bay in Lamu [PHOTOS] - Kenyans.co.ke

The perpetrators were al-Shabab, a Somali-based terrorist group with pretensions of being followers of the Islamic faith. 

Fewer than 20 al-Shabaab militants assaulted Camp Simba, which was home to around 100 US personnel along with an undisclosed number of Kenyan troops.

It was the first al-Shabaab targeting of US military personnel in Kenya.

ShababLogo.png

Above: Logo of al-Shabaab

The timing of the attack coincided with recent Iranian threats of retaliation to target US troops in response to the US assassination of Iranian General Qasem Soleimani in the 2020 Baghdad International Airport airstrike.

However, al-Shabaab claimed no link between their decision to attack and to those events.

Qasem Soleimani with Zolfaghar Order.jpg

Above: Qasem Soleimani (1957 – 2020)

The COVID-19 virus was confirmed to have reached Kenya on 13 March 2020, with the initial cases reported in the capital city Nairobi and in the coastal area of Mombasa.

On 23 July, Kenya confirmed 15 thousand cases and six thousand recoveries.

While the pandemic has spread, relative to other countries the situation has remained “pretty tame“.

SARS-CoV-2 without background.png

As of 2 December 2020 in Kenya:

  • 87, 249 confirmed cases of Covid-19
  • 68, 110 recoveries
  • 1,506 deaths

In response to the rise of corona virus cases in Kenya to three (3), on 15 March the government of Kenya closed all schools and directed that all public and private sector workers work from home, wherever possible.

Travel restrictions were later imposed to prevent non-residents from entry.

Kenyan nationals and residents were required to self-quarantine for a minimum of 14 days.

COVID-19 response in Kenya, Djibouti and Tanzania | ICRC

On 15 March 2020, President Uhuru Kenyatta directed that the following measures to curb COVID-19 be implemented:

  • Travel from any countries with any case of Corona virus be restricted.
  • Only Kenyan citizens and foreigners with valid residence permits will be allowed to come into the country provided they proceed on self quarantine or to a government designated quarantine facility.
  • All schools and higher learning institutions be closed by Friday March 20, 2020.
  • Government and businesses people start working from home, except essential services.
  • Cashless transactions over cash. Cost of transactions reduced.
  • No congressional meetings – weddings, malls, night clubs, churches, limitation of visits to hospitals.
  • Hospitals and shopping malls to give soap and water/hand sanitizers, and regular cleaning of facilities.
  • Cargo vessels, aircraft or ships can come into the country provided they are disinfected at point of departure and the crew quarantined on arrival.
  • UN Headquarters in Kenya continue operating with diplomats travelling to the UN exempted from travel restrictions but observing the self-quarantine rule.
  • A toll-free number (719) set up to report suspected corona virus cases.

Cabinet Secretary Mutahi Kagwe banned all social gatherings including religious gatherings on the same date.

All flights were banned effective Wednesday 25 March by the Health CS.

On 22 March, following the confirmation of an additional eight cases, bringing the total to 16 nationally, the Kenyan government introduced additional measures and directives to reduce the spread of corona virus in the country.

These measures included a suspension of all international flights effective at midnight on 25 March, with the exception of cargo flights (all persons entering the country will be compelled to undergo quarantine at a government facility).

Kenya Airways Logo.svg

The government further stipulated that any persons, including senior government officials, found to be in violation of quarantine measures would be forcefully quarantined at their own expense.

All bars were to remain closed from 22 March, with restaurants allowed to remain open for takeaway services only.

All public service vehicles (i.e., matatus and buses) had to adhere to passenger-distancing guidelines previously stipulated on 20 March.

Further, all public gatherings at churches, mosques, funerals and elsewhere were restricted to no more than 15 people, and weddings were banned.

In May 2020, Kenyan authorities dislodged 8,000 people from two informal settlements, compelling them to live on streets for weeks.

This increased the possible risk of spreading corona virus among them.

On 30 October, the United Nations and the World Food Programme (WFP) launched a major cash and nutrition relief project in conjunction with local and national authorities to provide aid for 400,000 urban poor in Covid-19 hotspots.

Flag of United Nations Arabic: منظمة الأمم المتحدة‎ (munazamat al'umam almutahida) Chinese: 联合国 (Liánhéguó) French: Organisation des Nations unies Russian: Организация Объединённых Наций (Organizatsiya Ob"yedinonnykh Natsiy) Spanish: Organización de las Naciones Unidas

World Food Programme Logo Simple.svg

People were arrested for breaking curfews.

The 1900 – 0500 curfew announced on 25 March was accompanied by reports of police brutality.

Three Kenyan police held after dragging woman behind motorbike | Kenya | Al  Jazeera

First-hand accounts and video footage in several cities, including Nairobi and Mombasa, indicated that police used beatings and tear gas on 27 March.

Some accounts indicate that detention resulted in crowding of people into small areas, contrary to the curfew’s goal of increasing social distancing.

Kenyan officials and government outlets later condemned police behaviour.

Subsequently, a petition was filed by the Law Society of Kenya claiming that the curfew itself was unconstitutional, “because it is blank and indefinite, and because it is ultra vires [it contravenes] the Public Order Act” and that the curfew posed a threat to the health of the general population.

The petition further asserted that, “police recklessly horded large crowds on the ground, contrary to WHO advice on social distancing.

Moreover, the first respondent (police) stopped the media from monitoring their movement and assaulted journalists covering the process“.

Petition · Law Society of Kenya: Vetting of LSK Nominees for JSC  Representative · Change.org

On 30 March, the High Court of Kenya upheld the curfew itself, but barred police from using excessive force to enforce the curfew and demanded the police provide guidelines for observing the curfew.

Above: The Supreme Court of Kenya

On 31 March, a 13-year-old boy was shot dead, allegedly by police, on the balcony of his home in Kiamaiko, Nairobi, 20 minutes after the curfew had started.

Boy, 13, shot dead in third curfew tragedy, police blamed

On 25 April, additional 21 days were added as curfew with focus still in Nairobi, Mombasa, Kilifi and across the country.

The travel restrictions reduced Kenya’s hotel, tourism and flower industries.

In contrast to citizens in industrialized countries, some Kenyans have the ability to switch from their city jobs to rural labour for food.

Kenya Eases COVID-19 Restrictions as Cases Continue to Soar | Voice of  America - English

Kenya’s economy is the largest in eastern and central Africa, with Nairobi serving as a major regional commercial hub.

Agriculture is the largest sector: tea and coffee are traditional cash crops, while fresh flowers are a fast-growing export.

The service industry is also a major economic driver, particularly tourism.

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Despite major achievements in the health sector, Kenya still faces many challenges.

The estimated life expectancy dropped in 2009 to approximately 55 years — five years below the 1990 level.

The infant mortality rate was high at approximately 44 deaths per 1,000 children in 2012.

The WHO estimated in 2011 that only 42% of births were attended by a skilled health professional.

World Health Organization Logo.svg

Diseases of poverty directly correlate with a country’s economic performance and wealth distribution: 

Half of Kenyans live below the poverty level.

Poverty in Kenya – Unemployment, Child Labor & HIV

Preventable diseases like malaria, HIV/AIDS, pneumonia, diarrhoea, and malnutrition are the biggest burden, major child-killers, and responsible for much morbidity.

Weak policies, corruption, inadequate health workers, weak management, and poor leadership in the public health sector are largely to blame.

According to 2009 estimates, HIV/AIDS prevalence is about 6.3% of the adult population.

However, the 2011 UN AIDS Report suggests that the HIV epidemic may be improving in Kenya, as HIV prevalence is declining among young people (ages 15–24) and pregnant women.

A red ribbon in the shape of a bow

Kenya had an estimated 15 million cases of malaria in 2006.

Will Kenya overcome this latest setback to its people?

Will they rise from Africa’s social and economic woes?

Perhaps by following the national motto Harambee (Let us all pull together.)?

Kenya is a place worth preserving on a planet worth fighting for.

Coat of arms of Kenya

Over 85% of Kenyans are Christian and 10% are Muslim.

Those of faith, Christian, Muslim or other belief systems, have notions that salvation comes from above.

Perhaps that salvation is balloon-shaped?

Google Loon: What It Means for Kenya - Kenyans.co.ke

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / The Travel Book: A Journey Through Every Country in the World (Lonely Planet) / Lonely Planet Africa / Lonely Planet Kenya / Jane Flanagan, “Giant balloons help broadband to take off“, The Times, 31 March 2020 / Wainarna Ndung’u, “Google device plunges into a miraa farm in Igenbe Central, Meru prompting talk of aliens“, The Standard (Kenya), 30 December 2017 / James Reine, “Tourists in Kenya brave Narobbery“, Al Jazeera, 15 January 2020 / Gemma Solés, “Narobbery: life in the fenced city“, UrbanAfrica.net, 10 March 2014

Coat of arms of Kenya