Wonderwall

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Monday 21 November 2022

Above: Cover of the single “Wonderwall“, Oasis

I have next to no memory of Miami.

Above: Images of Miami, Florida

In my travels, in my 20s, my focus was on Fort Lauderdale where my mother is buried and the Overseas Highway to Key West.

Above: Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Above: Seeming to converge in the distance, the Seven-Mile Bridge on the Florida Keys Scenic Highway west of Marathon, Florida, runs parallel to the historic Flagler Railroad Bridge of the early 1900s with the Atlantic Ocean to the South and the Gulf of Mexico to the North.

There is little I regret about my hitch-hiking days, but the lack of money I possessed meant there were many places in America that I could not afford to visit in the manner I would have wished.

The Floridan cities I recall were cities either connected with the search for my mother’s roots or en route to somewhere else.

Above: Flag of Florida

My memories of Jacksonville, St. Augustine, Fort Lauderdale, Key West, St. Petersburg, Tarpon Springs, Port St. Joe and Fort Walton Beach are strong and stark in my mind.

Above: Images of Jacksonville, Florida

Above: Images of St. Augustine, Florida

Above: Aerial view of Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Above: Southernmost Point Buoy Monument, Key West, Florida

Above: St. Petersburg, Florida

Above: Tarpon Springs, Florida

Above: Port St. Joe, Florida

Above: Fort Walton Beach, Florida

My sole memory of Miami was trying to sleep under a tractor-trailer.

In retrospect, a dumb decision.

What little I saw of Miami remains a distorted blur at best.

I regret that, for there is much of Miami that appeals to me.

Above: Miami, Florida

Miami, officially the City of Miami, known as “the 305“, “The Magic City“, and “Gateway to the Americas” is a coastal metropolis and the county seat of Miami – Dade County in South Florida.

With a population of 442,241 (2020), it is the 2nd most populous city in Florida and the 11th most populous city in the southeastern United States.

The Miami metropolitan area is the 9th largest in the US, with a population of 6.138 million people (2020).

The city has the 3rd largest skyline in the US with over 300 skyscrapers, 58 of which exceed 491 ft (150 m).

Miami is a major center and leader in finance, commerce, culture, arts, and international trade.

Miami’s metropolitan area is by far the largest urban economy in Florida and the 12th largest in the US, with a GDP of $344.9 billion (2017).

According to a 2018 UBS study of 77 world cities, Miami is the 2nd richest city in the US and 3rd richest globally in purchasing power.

Miami has a Hispanic population of 310,472, or 70.2% of the city’s population (2020).

Above: Miami, Florida

Downtown Miami has one of the largest concentrations of international banks in the US and is home to many large national and international companies.

Above: Miami, Florida

The Health District is home to several major University of Miami-affiliated hospital and health facilities, including Jackson Memorial, the nation’s largest hospital with 1,547 beds, and the Leonard M. Miller School of Medicine, the University of Miami’s academic medical center and teaching hospital, and others engaged in health-related care and research. 

Above: Jackson Memorial Hospital, Miami, Florida

Port Miami, the city’s seaport, is the busiest cruise port in the world in both passenger traffic and cruise lines.

Above: Port of Miami, Miami, Florida

Miami is the 2nd largest tourism hub for international visitors, after New York City. 

Miami has sometimes been called the Gateway to Latin America because of the magnitude of its commercial and cultural ties to the region.

In 2019, Miami ranked 7th in the US in business activity, human capital, information exchange, cultural experience and political engagement.

Above: Miami, Florida

Miami – Dade College, with more than 165,000 students, is America’s largest institution of higher learning, and one of the country’s best community college systems.

This community college has locations in Hialeah, Homestead, Kendall, Downtown Miami, and North Miami as well as locations all around Miami proper.

In Coral Gables is the University of Miami, one of the best-known universities in Florida.

Above: Otto G. Richter Library, University of Miami, Coral Gables, Florida

One of the state’s largest universities, Florida International University (more commonly FIU), is in University Park, just to the west of the Miami city limits.

Miami was named in 1896 after the Miami River, derived from Mayaimi, the historic name of Lake Okeechobee and the Native Americans who lived around it.

Above: Mouth of the Miami River, Brickell Key, Florida

The Tequesta tribe occupied the Miami area for around 2,000 years before contact with Europeans.

A village of hundreds of people, dating to 600 BCE, was located at the mouth of the Miami River.

It is believed that the entire tribe migrated to Cuba by the mid-1700s.

Above: Bronze statue of a Tequesta warrior and his family on the Brickell Avenue Bridge, Miami, Florida 

In 1566, Admiral Pedro Menéndez de Avilés, Florida’s first governor, claimed the area for Spain.

Above: Pedro Menéndez de Avilés (1519 – 1574)

Above: Flag of the Spanish Empire (1492 – 1976)

A Spanish mission was constructed one year later.

Spain and Britain successively ruled Florida until Spain ceded it to the United States in 1821.

In 1836, the US built Fort Dallas on the banks of the Miami River as part of their development of the Florida Territory and their attempt to suppress and remove the Seminoles.

As a result, the Miami area became a site of fighting in the Second Seminole War (1835 – 1842), “the longest and most costly of the Indian conflicts of the United States”.

Above: Lummus Park Historic District, Miami, Florida –  Old plantation slave quarters, moved here from Fort Dallas

Above: This view of a Seminole village shows the log cabins they lived in prior to the disruptions of the Second Seminole War.

Miami is noted as the only major city in the United States founded by a woman. 

Julia Tuttle, a local citrus grower and a wealthy Cleveland native, was the original owner of the land upon which the city was built.

In the late 19th century, the area was known as “Biscayne Bay Country“.

Reports described it as a promising wilderness and “one of the finest building sites in Florida“.

The Great Freeze of 1894 – 1895 hastened Miami’s growth, as the crops there were the only ones in Florida that survived.

Above: Damage to an orange grove because of cold – Bartow, Florida – 1 January 1895

(Orlando reached an all-time record low of 18 °F (−8 °C) on 29 December 1894.

Above: Orlando, Florida

In the second cold wave (1895), West Palm Beach recorded all time record low of 27 °F (−3 °C) on 9 February 1895.

Above: West Palm Beach, Florida

A snowstorm produced unprecedented snowfall amounts along the Gulf Coast, including 22 inches (56 cm) in Houston, Texas.

Above: States that border the Gulf of Mexico are shown in red.

Above: Houston, Texas

Snow fell as far south as Tampico, Mexico, within the Tropic of Cancer, the lowest latitude in North America that snow has been recorded at sea level.)

Above: Plaza de la Libertad, Centro Historico, Tampico, Tamaulipas State, Mexico

Above: World map with the Tropic of Cancer (red line)

Julia Tuttle subsequently convinced railroad tycoon Henry Flagler to extend his Florida East Coat Railway to the region, for which she became known as “the mother of Miami“.

Above: Henry Morrison Flagler (1830 – 1913)

Above: Route of the Florida East Coast Railroad (red line)

Miami was officially incorporated as a city on 28 July 1896, with a population of just over 300.

African American labor played a crucial role in Miami’s early development.

Above: Julia DeForest Tuttle (1849 – 1898)

During the early 20th century, migrants from the Bahamas and African Americans constituted 40% of the city’s population. 

Despite their role in the city’s growth, their community was limited to a small space.

When landlords began to rent homes to African-Americans around Avenue J (what would later become NW Fifth Avenue), a gang of white men with torches marched through the neighborhood and warned the residents to move or be bombed.

Above: Avenue J, Miami, Florida

Miami prospered during the 1920s with an increase in population and development in infrastructure as northerners moved to the city.

The legacy of Jim Crow was embedded in these developments.

The Jim Crow laws were state and local laws enforcing racial segregation in the Southern US.

Above: Cover to early edition of “Jump Jim Crow” sheet music – Thomas D. Rice (1908 – 1960) is pictured in his blackface role:

He was performing at the Bowery Theatre (New York City)(also known as the “American Theatre“) at the time.

This image was highly influential on later Jim Crow and minstrelsy images.

Miami’s chief of police at the time, Howard Leslie Quigg, did not hide the fact that he, like many other white Miami police officers, was a member of the Ku Klux Klan.

Unsurprisingly, these officers enforced social codes far beyond the written law.

Quigg, for example, “personally and publicly beat a colored bellboy to death for speaking directly to a white woman“.

Above: Howard Leslie Quigg (1888 – 1980)

Above: Flag of the Ku Klux Klan

The collapse of the Florida land boom of the 1920s, the 1926 Miami Hurricane, and the Great Depression in the 1930s slowed development.

(The Florida land boom of the 1920s was Florida’s first real estate bubble.

This pioneering era of Florida land speculation lasted from 1924 to 1926 and attracted investors from all over the nation.

The land boom left behind entirely new, planned developments incorporated into towns and cities.

Major investors and speculators left behind a new history of racially deed restricted properties that segregated cities for decades.

Among those cities at the center of this bubble were Miami Beach, Coral Gables, Hialeah, Miami Springs, Opa-locka, Miami Shores and Hollywood.

Above: Miami Beach, Florida

Above: Coral Gables, Florida

Above: Palm Avenue, Hialeah, Florida

Above: Hialeah Park taken in the 1930s, “Hialeah Park, Fla., the world’s greatest race course, Miami Jockey Club.

Above: The Glenn H. Curtiss House, located at 500 Deer Run in Miami Springs, Florida, was built in 1925 by aviation pioneer and real estate developer Glenn Hammond Curtiss (1878 – 1930).

It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2001.

Above: City Hall, Opa Locka, Florida

Above: Downtown, Miami Shores, Florida

Above: Hollywood, Florida

It also left behind the remains of failed development projects such as:

  • Aladdin City

Above: Original lot plan of Aladdin City (originally platted and still existing streets in green), 1 January 1927

  • Fulford-by-the-Sea

Above: Fulford by the Sea Monument, North Miami Beach, Florida

  • Isola di Lolando

Above: Isola di Lolando is an unfinished artificial island in Biscayne Bay, Florida.

Hurricane damage and economic collapse caused the project to be abandoned shortly after the start of construction, but pilings remain visible in the bay and are a hazard to navigation.

  • Boca Raton

Above: Boca Raton, Florida

  • Okeelanta

Above: Photograph of the house of Thomas E. Will, the founder of Okeelanta, Florida, the Everglades’ first planned community, on the North New River Canal in Okeelanta, 9 September 1916

  • Palm Beach Ocean

Above: Sailfish Marina, Singer Island (Palm Beach Ocean), Florida

The land boom shaped Florida’s future for decades and created entire new cities out of the Everglades land that remain today.

The story includes many parallels to the real estate boom of the 2000s, including the forces of outside speculators, easy credit access for buyers, and rapidly appreciating property values, ending in a financial collapse that ruined thousands of investors and property owners, and crippled the local economy for years thereafter.

Proving once again the adage that those who do not learn from history was destined to repeat it.)

(The Great Miami Hurricane of 1926 was a large and intense tropical cyclone that devastated the Greater Miami area and caused catastrophic damage in the Bahamas and the US Gulf Coast in September 1926, accruing a US $100 million damage toll.

As a result of the devastation wrought by the hurricane in Florida, the Land Boom in Florida ended.

The hurricane represented an early start to the Great Depression in the aftermath of the state’s 1920s land boom.

It has been estimated that a similar hurricane would cause about $235 billion in damage if it were to hit Miami today.)

Above: Damage from 1926 hurricane, Miami Beach, Florida

(The Great Depression was a period of great economic depression worldwide between 1929 and 1939 became evident after a major fall in stock prices in the US.

The economic contagion began around September and led to the Wall Street stock market crash of 24 October 1929 (Black Thursday).

The economic shock impacted most countries across the world to varying degrees.

It was the longest, deepest, and most widespread depression of the 20th century.

Between 1929 and 1932, worldwide gross domestic price (GDP) fell by an estimated 15%.

By comparison, worldwide GDP fell by less than 1% from 2008 to 2009 during the Great Recession.

Some economies started to recover by the mid-1930s.

However, in many countries, the negative effects of the Great Depression lasted until the beginning of World War II. 

Devastating effects were seen in both rich and poor countries with falling personal income, prices, tax revenues, and profits.

International trade fell by more than 50%, unemployment in the US rose to 23% and in some countries rose as high as 33%.

Cities around the world were hit hard, especially those dependent on heavy industry.

Construction was virtually halted in many countries.

Farming communities and rural areas suffered as crop prices fell by about 60%.

Faced with plummeting demand and few job alternatives, areas dependent on primary sector industries suffered the most.

Economic historians usually consider the catalyst of the Great Depression to be the sudden devastating collapse of US stock market prices, starting on 24 October 1929.

However, some dispute this conclusion, seeing the stock crash less as a cause of the Depression and more as a symptom of the rising nervousness of investors partly due to gradual price declines caused by falling sales of consumer goods (as a result of overproduction because of new production techniques, falling exports and income inequality, among other factors) that had already been underway as part of a gradual Depression.)

Above: Poor mother and children during the Great Depression. Elm Grove, Oklahoma County, Oklahoma, 1 August 1936

It was the city’s support of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s New Deal that helped the city rebuild.

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945) (US President: 1933 – 1945)

Roosevelt almost lost his life, however, when Giuseppe Zangara attempted to assassinate Roosevelt when he came to Miami to thank the city for its support of the New Deal.

On 15 February 1933, 17 days before Roosevelt’s inauguration, during an impromptu speech at night from the back of an open car by Roosevelt, Zangara fired five shots with a handgun he had purchased a couple of days before.

Zangara, armed with a .32-caliber pistol he had bought for $8 (equivalent to $170 in 2021) at a local pawn shop, joined the crowd of spectators, but as he was only 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, he was unable to see over other people and had to stand on a wobbly metal folding chair, peering over the hat of Lillian Cross to get a clear aim at his target.

He placed his gun over Mrs. Cross’ right shoulder.

(She was only about 4 inches taller than he was and weighed 105 pounds)

After Zangara fired the first shot, Cross and others grabbed his arm, and he fired four more shots wildly.

Five people were hit:

  • Mrs. Joseph H. Gill (seriously wounded in the abdomen)
  • Miss Margaret Kruis of Newark, New Jersey (minor wound in hand and a scalp wound)
  • New York detective/bodyguard William Sinnott (superficial head wound)
  • Russell Caldwell of Miami (flesh wound on the forehead)
  • Chicago Mayor Anton Cermak, who was standing on the running board of the car next to Roosevelt.
  • Mrs Cross had powder burns on her right cheek.
  • Secret Service agent Bob Clark had a grazed hand, possibly caused by the bullet that struck Cermak. 
  • The intended target, Roosevelt, was unharmed.

Roosevelt cradled the mortally wounded Cermak in his arms as the car rushed to the hospital.

After arriving there, Cermak spoke to Roosevelt, and before he died 19 days later, allegedly uttered the line that is engraved on his tomb:

I’m glad it was me, not you.

Above: Anton Cermak (1873 – 1933)

Above: Giuseppe Zangara (1900 – 1933)

The New Deal was a series of programs, public work projects, financial reforms, and regulations enacted between 1933 and 1939.

Major federal programs agencies included the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) (1933 – 1942), the Works Progress Administration (WPA) (1935 – 1943), the Civil Works Administration (CWA) (1933 – 1934), the Farm Security Administration (FSA) (1937 – 1946), the National Industrial Recovery Act of 1933 (NIRA) and the Social Security Administration (SSA).

They provided support for farmers, the unemployed, youth, and the elderly.

The New Deal included new constraints and safeguards on the banking industry and efforts to re-inflate the economy after prices had fallen sharply.

New Deal programs included both laws passed by Congress as well as presidential executive orders.

Above; Construction of the Huntsville High School athletic field (Goldsmith-Schiffman Stadium) in Huntsville, Alabama

Above: NRA (National Recovery Administration) member: We Do Our Part

When World War II (1939 – 1945) began, Miami became a base for US defense against German submarines due to its prime location on the southern coast of Florida.

When a German U-boat sank a US tanker off Florida’s coast, the majority of South Florida was converted into military headquarters for the remainder of World War II.

The Army’s World War II legacy in Miami is a school designed for anti-U-boat warfare.

Above: German U-boat submarine

This brought an increase in Miami’s population:

172,172 people lived in the city by 1940.

The city’s nickname, The Magic City, came from its rapid growth, which was noticed by winter visitors who remarked that the city grew so much from one year to the next that it was like magic.

After Fidel Castro rose to power in Cuba following the Cuban Revolution (1953 – 1959), many wealthy Cubans sought refuge in Miami, further increasing the city’s population.

Above: Fidel Castro (1926 – 2016)

Above: Flag of Cuba

Miami developed new businesses and cultural amenities as part of the New South in the 1980s and 1990s.

At the same time, South Florida weathered social problems related to drug wars, immigration from Haiti and Latin America, and the widespread destruction of Hurricane Andrew.

Above: Title screen, TV series Miami Vice (1984 – 1989)

Above: Movie poster, Miami Vice (2006)

Above: Flag of Haiti

Above: Hurricane Andrewnear peak intensity east of the Bahamas, 23 August 1992

Racial and cultural tensions sometimes sparked, but the city developed in the latter half of the 20th century as a major international, financial, and cultural center.

It is the second-largest US city with a Spanish-speaking majority (after El Paso, Texas), and the largest city with a Cuban-American plurality.

Above: El Paso, Texas

If you are not from the US but wish to work here, you will need a work visa. 

If you try to work while holding a tourist visa, you are still considered an illegal immigrant in the US.

Above: Sample of a tourist visa

The Immigration and Nationalization Services (INS) conduct frequent illegal immigrant checks in Miami businesses since Miami has numerous refugees from Cuba, Haiti and other nearby countries.

If you don’t have the right visa, you may not get a job in Miami.

There is an exception to getting work without a visa in Miami, however.

Above: Miami, Florida

Since yachts and cruise ships sail on international waters, these companies can freely hire any person they like.

Non-US citizens will still require a valid seaman’s visa, however, to land in US ports.

Above: Sample of a seafarer’s visa

I haven’t the foggiest idea of how to obtain such a prize, but my understanding is that apart from introducing yourself to boat owners at the docks, the primary ways to find a crewing position in the US are by registering with a crewing agency, staying in a crew house where you are likely to hear of forthcoming vacancies, answering an advert on a yachting website or hanging around a yachting supply store, some of which have noticeboards.

If intending to sign up with a crewing agency, it is essential to do so in person.

At that time you can enquire about visas, though you are likely to be told that it is permissible to join the crew of a foreign-registered yacht on a tourist visa provided you don’t cruise in American waters for longer than 29 days (whereupon you should have a B-1 business visa).

A number of crewing agencies are located north of Miami in Fort Lauderdale, the yachting capital of Florida, including Crewfinders and Elite Crew International.

The website Crewfinders International has links to accommodation for people seeking crew positions.

People working or staying at one of the many crew houses in Fort Lauderdale will soon tell you the agencies with which it is worth registering.

Experienced crew often bypass the agencies and simply ask captains directly.

Cooks are especially in demand.

Above: Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Foodies and chefs alike herald Miami for its unique American cuisine.

Created in the 1990s, the cuisine alternatively known as New World, Nuevo Latino or Flori-bbean cuisine blends local produce, Latin American and Caribbean culinary tradition and the technical skills required in European cooking.

Above: Mangu with veggie meat

Above: Asado Uruguayo

Above: Sweet potato crusted salmon on salad

Miami may be known for its Latin American cuisine (especially its Cuban cuisine but also cuisines from South American countries such as Colombia), but there are other different kinds of restaurants to be found around the city.

In addition to stand-alone Chinese, Japanese, Middle Eastern, and Italian (among others) restaurants, there are cafés, steakhouses and restaurants operating from boutique hotels, as well as chain restaurants such as TGI Fridays and Ben & Jerry’s.

Above: Tropical Chinese Restaurant Yorumlari, Miami, Florida

Above: Doraku Japanese Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Above: Layali Middle Eastern Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Above: Alloy Italian Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Miami is known for having nightclubs double as restaurants throughout the city.

Most of these restaurants, such as Tantra, BED and the Pearl Restaurant and Champagne Lounge (attached to Nikki Beach), are found throughout South Beach.

Above: B.E.D. Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Above: Pearl Restaurant, Miami, Florida

However, some of these restaurants/nightclubs like Grass Lounge can be found in the Design District (north of downtown but south of North Miami).

Above: Grass Restaurant, Miami, Florida

If many of Miami’s premiere restaurants don’t fit into your daily budget, consider eating during Miami Restaurant Month (better known as Miami Spice) in August and September.

Miami’s dining scene reflects burgeoning diversity, mixing exotic newcomer restaurants with long-standing institutions, often seasoned by Latin influence and hot winds of the Caribbean.

New World cuisine, a culinary counterpart to accompany Miami’s New World Symphony, provides a loose fusion of Latin, Asian, and Caribbean flavors utilizing fresh, area-grown ingredients.

Innovative restaurateurs and chefs similarly reel in patrons with Floribbean-flavored seafood fare, while keeping true to down-home Florida favorites.

Don’t be fooled by the plethora of super lean model types you’re likely to see posing throughout Miami.

Contrary to popular belief, dining in this city is as much a sport as the in-line skating on Ocean Drive.

With over 6,000 restaurants to choose from, dining out in Miami has become a passionate pastime for locals and visitors alike.

Its star chefs have fused Californian-Asian with Caribbean and Latin elements to create a world-class flavor all its own: Floribbean.

Think mango chutney splashed over fresh swordfish or a spicy sushi sauce served alongside Peruvian ceviche.

Whatever you’re craving, Miami’s got it — with the exception of decent Chinese food and a New York-style slice of pizza.

On the mainland — especially in Coral Gables, and, more recently, downtown and on Brickell Avenue — you can also experience fine, creative dining without the pretense.

There are several Peruvian restaurants in Kendale Lakes, out of the way, but worth it.

Nightlife in Miami consists of upscale hotel clubs, independent bars frequented by locals (including sports bars) and nightclubs.

Most hotel bars and independent bars turn the other cheek at your physical appearance, but you have to dress to impress (which does not mean dress like a stripper) to get into a nightclub.

Also remember to never, under any circumstances, insult the doormen and/or nightclub employees that will grant you entry or touch the velvet ropes or you may as well be sitting on the opposite side of the clamoring masses trying to get in.

Attempting to tip the doormen and claiming that you know employees that work in the nightclubs (unless you actually called and reserved a table or a spot on the VIP list) is also considered an affront.

Getting to the club unfashionably early and pushing through the crowd (and not the doormen) also can help make you stand out in the crowd.

Finally, most nightclubs won’t admit groups of men unless those men are waiting in front of a gay bar.

Bring some women or leave the pack if you’re desperate to get in.

And once you get in, remember that the charge to get in these clubs can cost up to $20 — cash only (some clubs, however, mercifully have ATMs — that can charge up to $7 for a withdrawal).

Popular drinks in Miami include the Cuba Libre and the mojito.

Above: Cuba Libre

Above: Mojito

Although tourists generally consider Miami Beach to be part of Miami, Miami Beach is its own municipality.

Miami Beach sits on a barrier island east of Miami and Biscayne Bay.

It is home to lots of beach resorts and is one of the most popular spring break party destinations in the world.

But I don’t want to talk about Miami Beach, only Miami itself.

Above: Miami Beach, Florida

Some other sights associated with Miami, like the Miami Zoo and the Miami Dolphins football team, are in other suburbs within Miami – Dade County, and two other institutions associated with Miami, the Florida Panthers hockey team and Inter Miami CF soccer team, play home games in Broward County.

Above: Logo of the Miami Dolphins National Football League (NFL) team

Above: Logo of the Florida Panthers National Hockey League (NHL) team

Why there is hockey in tropical places still mystifies me.

The City of Miami is divided into seven districts: Downtown, MiMo Boulevard, the Design District, Coconut Grove, Little Havana, Overtown and Midtown.

Downtown is Miami’s Central Business District (CBD) with its skies full of scrapers.

Above: Downtown Miami

MiMo is home to post WW2 modern architecture.

Above: MiMo District, Miami

The Design District is a small artsy neighbourhood north of Downtown.

Above: Design District, Miami

Coconut Grove is a cosmopolitan community on the coast south of Downtown.

Above: Coconut Grove

Little Havana is a heavily Latin American neighborhood – now inhabited by Central and South Americans rather than Cubans.

Above: Little Havana, Miami

Overtown is a historic African-American neighborhood.

Midtown is….well, Midtown.

Above: Midtown Miami

The city has also been the base for cocaine smuggling, depicted in the 1983 film Scarface.

Miami’s crime rate is a routine topic of news media, but the city is only relatively dangerous for the passing tourist in certain areas.

Almost all crime is related to the illegal drug trade, owing to Miami’s proximity to the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, which makes it a major transit point for narcotics from South America. 

Overtown (next to Liberty City) has the highest violent crime rate in the city and is best avoided altogether.

Above: Overtown, Miami, Florida

Opalocka / Miami Garden and Little Haiti are also best avoided at night.

Above: Opalocka, Florida

Above: Miami Garden, Florida

Above: Little Haiti, Miami, Florida

If you are in any crime-afflicted neighborhood, take the same precautions as you would in other dangerous neighborhoods in the US:

Mind your own business.

Be aware of your surroundings at night and in high-traffic areas.

Get to your destination quickly.

Avoid wearing flashy jewelry and electronics.

Because of its proximity to the Tropic of Cancer, Miami is generally hot.

The summer months of June–September will see most daytime highs over 90°F (32°C).

Combined with the region’s humidity, these can make for stifling temperatures, both day and night.

You won’t see nearly a car or home without running air conditioning.

Winters average an impressive 75°F (24°C) for daytime temperatures and nights are slightly cooler.

During June to November, rain and thunderstorms can be expected and are most common in the afternoon hours.

Rain is known to fall heavily for a few minutes, to stop entirely, and then to begin again.

Knowing its mercurial nature, local residents often drive or go outside in rainy weather to enjoy its cooling effect or to make good use of breaks in the storm.

Above: Miami, Florida

Miami has the largest Latin American population outside of Latin America, with nearly 65% of its population either from Latin America or of Latin American ancestry. 

Spanish is a language often used for day-to-day discourse in many places, although English is the language of preference, especially when dealing with business and government.

Many locals do not speak English, but this is usually centered among shops and restaurants in residential communities and rarely the case in large tourist areas or the downtown district.

Even when encountering a local who does not speak English, you can easily find another local to help with translation if needed, since most of the population is fluently bilingual.

In certain neighborhoods, such as Little Havana and Hialeah, most locals will address a person first in Spanish and then in English.

Spanglish“, a mixture of English and Spanish, is a somewhat common occurrence (but less so than in the American Southwest), with bilingual locals switching between English and Spanish mid-sentence and occasionally replacing a common English word for its Spanish equivalent and vice versa.

Haitian Creole is another language heard primarily in northern Miami.

It is common for a person to hear a conversation in this French-based Creole when riding public transportation or sitting at a restaurant.

Many signs and public announcements are in English, Spanish and Haitian Creole because of Miami’s diverse immigrant population.

Unlike Spanish, Haitian Creole is generally centered among the Haitian neighborhoods in northern Miami.

Most Haitians are more adapted to English than their Hispanic neighbors. 

Above: Location of Haiti (in green)

Portuguese and French are other languages that may be encountered in Miami.

These languages tend to be spoken mainly around tourist areas.

Most speakers of these languages speak English as well.

Above: Map of the Portuguese language in the world   Dark green: Native language.   Green: Official and administrative language.   Light Green: Cultural or secondary language.   Yellow: Portuguese-based creole. Green square: Portuguese speaking minorities.

Above: The French language in the world

Graffiti is art that is written, painted or drawn on a wall or other surface, usually without permission and within public view. 

Graffiti ranges from simple written words to elaborate wall paintings.

It has existed since ancient times, with examples dating back to ancient Egypt, ancient Greece and the Roman Empire.

Graffiti is a controversial subject.

In most countries, marking or painting property without permission is considered by property owners and civic authorities as defacement and vandalism, which it is a punishable crime, citing the use of graffiti by street gangs to mark territory or to serve as an indicator of gang-related activities.

Graffiti has become visualized as a growing urban “problem” for many cities in industrialized nations, spreading from the New York City subway system and Philadelphia in the early 1970s to the rest of the United States and Europe and other world regions.

Above: A former roof felt factory in Santalahti, Tampere, Finland. Most of the building, inside and outside, is covered in graffiti.

Graffiti is free speech, publicly expressed.

Graffiti is a protest against property, against ownership, against authority.

It is a defiance of punishment, of territory, of dominance.

It is visualized as a growing urban problem when it might be better defined as a challenge to the growing problems of urbanization.

Above: Graffiti on a wall in Čakovec, Croatia

The first known example of “modern style” graffiti survives in the ancient Greek city of Ephesus (in modern-day Türkiye).

Local guides say it is an advertisement for prostitution.

Above: Ephesus graffiti

Sometimes I wonder if modern style has become an advertisement for prostitution.

Men are quite capable of providing for themselves.

It should be impossible to bribe him.

He would, in fact, be above bribery altogether were it not for one basic need which has to be satisfied.

The need for physical contact with a woman’s body.

This need is so strong and its fulfillment gives men such intense pleasure that one suspects that it might be the sole reason for his voluntary enslavement to women.

His longing for this subjection may even be a facet of his sexual make-up.

The basis of any economy is a system of barter.

Therefore, someone demanding a service must be able to offer something of equal value in exchange for it, but as a man must fulfill his sexual desires and since he tends to want to possess exclusive rights of access to one woman, the prices have risen to an extortionate level.

This has made it possible for women to follow a system of exploitation.

No man remains exempt.

The concept of femininity is essentially sociological, not biological.

Even a homosexual is unlikely to escape without paying his dues.

The partner whose sexual drive is less developed quickly discovers the weak points of the other, whose drive is more intense, and manipulates him accordingly.

A man could, should, condition his sexual needs, but instead he allows them to be encouraged whenever possible – by women, since their interests are mainly directed towards a man’s libido.

Man is never dressed in such a way as to awaken sexual desire in the opposite sex, but it is very much the contrary with women.

The curves of breast and hip are exaggerated by tight-fitting clothes.

The length of leg, the shape of calf and ankle are enhanced.

Her lips and eyes beckon, moist with make-up.

Her hair gleams.

And to what purpose?

To stimulate desire for her.

Woman offers her wares like goods in a shop window, but one must pay for such alluring merchandise.

No money, no merchandise.

No wonder men think that is no greater happiness than to make enough money to take the merchandise home.

Reward a man with sex and he will be more obedient to a woman.

The whole world beckons with the promise of adventure.

Yet so strong is his sex drive that he gladly foregoes the world for a woman.

But a woman can never be a substitute for what he has lost.

Everything follows a strict system of supply and demand.

She will give him sex if he does whatever she demands.

The rules are rigid.

Surprise is small and scarcely significant.

Control his manhood, control the man.

Imagine a world where women were not merely walking advertisements for sex, not merely the graffiti of society.

Imagine a world where men were not obsessed with sex.

Man is a thinking creature.

He has a thirst for knowledge.

He wants to know what the world around him looks like and how it functions.

He draws conclusions from the data he encounters.

He makes something new out of the information achieved from his conclusions.

As a result of his exceptionally wide, multidimensional emotional scale, he not only registers the commonplace in fine gradations, but he creates and discovers new emotional values and makes them accessible to others through sensible descriptions or recreates them as an artist.

Above: Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

I am in no way suggesting that the above descriptions are true for all men nor am I suggesting that they cannot be true for women.

What I am saying is that potential is determined by one’s choices and that more people choose the path of least resistance – men’s subjugation to the societal standards set by women and women choosing comfort over complication.

Man’s curiosity is the most impressive quality of all.

Too many women take an interest only in subjects that have an immediate personal usefulness to her.

Man’s curiosity is something quite different.

His desire for knowledge has no personal implications, is purely objective and, in the long run, is more practical than a woman’s attitude.

Man’s curiosity is universal.

There is almost nothing that does not interest him.

Even subjects out of his province hold his interest.

Men not only observe the world around them, it is in their nature to make comparisons and to apply the knowledge they have gained themselves with the ultimate aim to transform this knowledge into something else, something new.

Men and woman have the exact same potential.

But they don’t make the same choices.

Practically all the inventions and discoveries in this world have been made by men.

Why is that?

Certainly where women have been suppressed, her opportunities to use her potential have been denied.

But in nations where women are more free, still many women choose to deny their potential and seek to be provided for rather than risk the difficulties of struggling along without a male companion.

With his many gifts man would appear to be ideally suited, both mentally and physically, to lead a life both fulfilled and free.

Instead he serves those who will not (women) or cannot (children) lead and calls this service noble.

Man who is capable of leading a life that is perfect as possible gladly gives that potential up to offer himself up to the female sex who cannot see man’s potential beyond how it serves her.

Man has come into the world to learn, to work and to father children.

His sons, in their turn, will learn to work and produce children.

Such has it ever been, such will it ever be.

If a young man gets married, starts a family and spends the rest of his life working at a soul-destroying job, he is held up as an example of virtue and responsibility.

The other type of man, living only for himself, working only for himself, sleeping where and when he wants, and facing women where he meets her, on equal terms and not as her servant, is rejected by society.

The free unshackled man has no place in its midst.

How depressing it is to see men, year after year, betraying all that they were born to.

New worlds could be discovered, worlds one hardly dares even to dream of could be opened by the minds, strength and intelligence of men.

Things to make life fuller and richer – their own life – and more worthwhile could be developed.

Instead, they forsake all these tremendous potentials and permit their minds and bodies to be shunted onto sidings to serve the animal existence and needs of entitled women.

With his mind, his strength and his imagination, all intended for the creation of new worlds, he opts instead for the preservation and improvement of the old.

We are so accustomed to men doing everything with women in view that anything else seems unthinkable.

Couldn’t composers create something apart from love songs?

Couldn’t writers give up their romantic novels and love poems and write literature?

Can painters only produce nudes and profiles of women, abstract or realistic?

Why can’t we have something new after all these millennia, something we have never seen before?

Imagine a world where men really used their intelligence and imagination instead of wasting it.

Imagine a world where men try living themselves.

Instead of making wars destined only to defend property, men should be travelling to worlds never dreamed of.

I am all for women’s equality, if only they would step up and do for themselves all that they demand from men.

But the prevailing attitude in the West is:

Why should they?

Policies for marriage, divorce, inheritance, motherhood, widowhood, old age and life ensure her increasing wealth.

They have complete psychological control over men and increasingly material control as well.

While men foolishly believe in their subjugation that they are responsible for the suppression of women, who, if they so choose could use their equal potential for the benefit of all humankind not just the individual woman.

There is this prevailing attitude that women are charming gracious creatures, fairy princesses, angels from another world, too good for men themselves and for their earthly existence.

While the reverse is true.

Men pointlessly wonder why they are not good enough for a woman upon whom he has set his sights, while never stopping to consider that she might not be good enough for him.

Besides beauty – beauty wiped away with a wet tissue, for, like men, most women are average – and booty, what else does she bring to a man’s life?

We truly want to believe that there is more.

Often we are sadly disappointed.

Tear off their masks and their tinkling bracelets, their frilly blouses and gold-leather sandals.

What is left?

Unused potential, deliberately dampened for material comfort.

Men as thinking creatures sense this disparity and young men express it.

Above: Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa

Throughout history, all the peoples of the Earth have practised some kind of religion.

It has been a central force in their lives.

The caves of Lascaux with their beautiful animal paintings – perhaps early graffiti? – are our earliest records of masculine ritual.

Above: Lascaux painting

In Aboriginal society, religious and associated cultural practices took up 70% of the time of mature men.

Even today, in spite of the divisions and bigotries that religion can foster, the forces of good – from social welfare to world peace – have a strong religious component.

The most potent and effective men and women are those with religious underpinnings to their life.

Why does religion matter?

Often we feel lost and confused and cannot figure our lives out.

At other times there is a feeling that is elusive but unmistakable:

That life is beautiful and that you are in the flow of things.

Ordinary ups and downs, pains and pleasures don’t matter when you feel you are on the right track.

Spirituality” simply means the direct experience of something special in life and living.

Religion – organized group activity and ritual – is an attempt to hold on to that feeling and make it last.

Religion is a container, which sometimes can capture the quicksilver of real spiritual experience and sometimes cannot.

People today have lost touch with the possibilities of ritual.

They think it has no use.

Group efforts are important ways to help each other stay focused on what matters, put a spiritual depth into our lives and pull our perspective back to the big picture and away from trivial concerns.

The brand of religion is not so important.

The true differences between religions are only differences of style and technique.

Any spiritual path will do.

We seek the connection beyond words with the holy, the ineffable, the unspeakable.

It is through giving into that deep desire that we feel our grief, our joy and our anger.

The longing for connection can take us out of our personal dramas and into our deepest feelings.

Then we feel alive and human, full of rich emotional experience.

Above: Albrecht Dürer’s Praying Hands

But the majority believe in nothing.

As a result, we are ill-equipped to answer or handle any of life’s deeper questions.

Modern man, for all his bravado, is very frail in the face of difficulties.

Suicide, cynicism, greed, addiction, wait close by.

The writing is on the wall.

We scream, silently, living lives of quiet desperation.

I view graffiti as potential poetry.

And a poet’s job is not to save the soul of a man, but to make it worth saving.

Artists, great and small, deserve acclaim, because they show us the world in a way that is fresh, appreciative and alive.

The opposite of art is habit.

Much of life is ruined for us by a blanket or shroud of familiarity that descends between us and everything that matters.

Habit dulls our senses and stops us appreciating everything, from the beauty of a sunset to our work and our friends.

Above: Sunset, Miami, Florida

Children don’t suffer from habit, which is why they get excited by some very key but simple things, like puddles, jumping on the bed, sand, and fresh bread.

But we adults get spoiled about everything, which is why we seek ever more powerful stimulants (like fame and love).

The trick is to recover the powers of appreciation of a child in adulthood to strip the veil of habit and therefore to start to appreciate daily life with a new sensitivity.

This is what one group in the population does all the time:

Artists.

Above: Street art, Cancun, Mexico

Artists are people who know how to strip habit away and return life to its glory, when they show us water lilies or services stations or buildings in a new light.

Above: Claude Monet, The Water Lilies – Setting Sun, 1926, Musée de l’Orangerie, Paris, France

Above: Edward Hopper, Gas, 1940, Museum of Modern Art, New York City, New York, USA

Above: Street art, Budapest, Hungary

The goal is not that we should necessarily make art or be someone who hangs out in museums all the time.

Above: Vincent van Gogh (1853 – 1890), Self Portrait, 1889

Above: Pierce Brosnan (Thomas Crown), Scene from The Thomas Crown Affair (1999)

Above: Vincent van Gogh, Noon – rest after work, 1890

The idea is to get us to look at the world, our world, with some of the same generosity as an artist, which would mean taking pleasure in simple things, like water, the sky, or a shaft of light on a piece of paper.

To know how to bring out the charm and the value of the everyday, like reading in a train, driving at night, smelling flowers in springtime, and looking at the changing light of the sun on the sea.

To be filled with hope and gratitude.

Life is not necessarily dull and without excitement.

It is just that one forgets to look at it in the right way.

We forget what being alive, fully alive, actually feels like.

To appreciate life with greater intensity.

It is not life which is mediocre so much as the image of it we possess.

The reason why life may be judged to be trivial, although at certain moments it seems to us so beautiful, is that we form our judgment ordinarily not on the evidence of life itself, but in its quite different images which preserve nothing of life.

Therefore, we judge it disparagingly.

That is why artists, great and small, are so important.

Their work reminds us that life is truly beautiful, fascinating and complex.

And thereby they dispel our boredom and ingratitude.

Art brings the beauty and interest of the world back to life.

Your senses are reawakened, extolling you to learn to appreciate existence before it is too late.

Many men, if questioned, locate the purpose for their lives, not in a spiritual path, but in pursuing the wellbeing of their families.

They live for their family.

While it is socially appropriate and healthy to dedicate several decades of our lives to meeting our family’s needs and enjoying the rewards of this, it is, however, very easy to lose one’s sense of self at the same time.

There are two questions a man must ask himself:

Where am I going?

Who will go with me?

In that order of importance.

Get these questions in the wrong order and the result is pain.

Where am I going? is the critical question.

Where have I come from? might hold some of the answers.

We need to borrow the wisdom of our ancestors if we are to avoid being the generation that let the fires of survival go out.

Ancient man was an environmentalist who knew how to thrive in the natural world in a sustainable way.

Since the environment is now the biggest concern facing mankind today we clearly need all the help we can get.

Our ultimate job is to preserve life.

This can only be done well with a source of energy and direction.

Living a life that makes ecological sense is not just a technical challenge but involves an inner change of orientation.

The biologist who goes out to study the rainforest from an objective point of view comes back changed by the experience.

The nights under the massive forest canopy and the days peering into nature’s mysteries capture his soul.

He changes into a passionate and newly balanced man.

Perhaps the needs of our time will transform our existing religions to something more vibrant and purposeful by turning more to nature and wildness and less to dogma and intellectual head-scratching.

I am attracted to nature by the wildness in my own nature.

I do not claim to be religious at all, yet the wilderness and the ocean are my spiritual homes.

In a city it is difficult for me to believe in God.

In nature it is impossible for me not to believe in God.

The thirst for wildness is in us all every day.

It is natural to love nature.

The more artificial life gets, the more we need to redress the imbalance.

Nature is happiness.

The closer man gets to inner and outer wildness, the better his life becomes.

I believe graffiti is the urban attempt to express that inner wildness.

Above: Graffiti, Kom Ombo Temple, Egypt

Within each man is a Wild Man.

He is both a being that is in men and yet also has independent life.

He both represents – and teaches us – our own brilliance, bounty, wildness, greatness and spontaneity.

The Wild Man teaches us that we don’t have to pretend to be good, but that we have power and integrity latent inside us.

If we trust it.

Abandoning yourself to wildness turns out to be the most harmonious and generative thing you can do.

Fans of Taoism and Lao Tzu will feel right at home here.

Above: The Chinese character for “Tao” – signifying way, path, route, road or, sometimes more loosely, doctrine

Above: Laotzu (4th century BCE) riding an ox through a pass.

It is said that with the fall of the Chou dynasty, Laotzu decided to travel west through the Han Valley Pass.

The Pass Commissioner, Yin-hsi, noticed a trail of vapor emanating from the east, deducing that a sage must be approaching.

Not long after, Laotzu riding his ox indeed appeared and, at the request of Yin-hsi, wrote down his famous Tao-te ching, leaving afterwards.

This story thus became associated with auspiciousness.

When we are good, we are OK.

But when we are “wild“, we are geniuses.

Any man who makes or build things, who creates a garden, who plays a jazz instrument, who has ever been a lover, knows that you are better when you “let go” and follow your impulses.

Above:  Albert Gleizes, Composition for Jazz

Natural rhythms within us take over and bring out our real talents.

Our love of trees, the wilderness, waves and water, animals, growing things, children and women, all stem from our wild nature.

All masculine confidence, of the inner kind, arises in the domain of the Wild Man.

Jesus, Mohammed and Buddha were well at ease with the Wild Man – spending time in the wilderness, using nature as their place of prayer and reflection.

All were unpredictable and nonconformist with the established order of their times, yet at the same time disciplined and true to their inner voices.

Isn’t graffiti unpredictable and nonconformist and yet is truth in its undisciplined expression?

Above: Street art, Tel Aviv, Israel

Wild does not mean savage.

Those who spray paint upon property are not necessarily a danger to themselves or others beyond the radical transformation of an urban landscape.

The savage does great damage to soil, earth, humankind and himself.

The Wild Man examines himself and probes that which has wounded him much in the manner of a Zen priest, a shaman or a woodsman.

Graffiti is freedom of expression without remorse or regret, without permission or apology.

Above: Graffiti in Yogyakarta, Indonesia

Stone and steel, plaster and plastic are far from our original nature.

Free expression upon them is to expose the world to that original nature.

Perhaps we should not associate the divine with virgin mothers and blissful Beatitudes but rather we should see the spark of the spiritual in the dance of the mad, in the smile of the fanged, in the breathlessness of submersion, covered in the hair of the untamed.

The Wild Man lives within our hearts and minds and calls to us.

This Man is not a savage, not an uncontrollable killer nor evil oppressor.

He is primordial but not barbaric, aboriginal but not vicious.

He represents what is best in the spirit of manhood.

Indomitable, invincible and wild, ready to defend and compete and protect, his instincts and perceptions are critical to the survival of the human race.

The Wild Man needs room to breathe and live and express himself.

Lose the Wild Man, lose male identity.

We need to accept that there is darkness that needs expression, that must dissent.

We emasculate and feminise ourselves to gain female approval and then are stunned that the female rejects the changes she demanded and craves the Wild Man we sacrificed in her name.

We cannot all wander away into the wilderness but we can nevertheless discover the wild side of the urban environments wherein we find ourselves.

Sometimes we need to see the city the way a country stranger might, to feel the lure of the bright lights, the spell of the big time.

Every building, every storefront opens onto a different world, compressing all the variety of human life into a jumble of possibilities made all the richer by the conjunctions and contradictions.

Just as a bookshelf can jam together Japanese poetry, Mexican history and Russian novels, so do the buildings of any cosmopolitan community.

To the clear-eyed and the open-minded even the most ordinary things can strike you with wonder.

The people on the street offer a thousand glances of lives similarly and utterly unlike your own.

Cities have always offered anonymity, variety and conjunction, much like the graffiti that graces its edifices.

A city always contains more than anyone can ever know.

A great city always makes the unknown and the possible spur the imagination.

Graffiti is the expression of that imagination.

Above: Street art in Thrissur, Kerala, India

A city is a place of unmediated encounters.

The suburbs, by comparison, are scrupulously controlled and segregated, designed for the noninteraction of motorists shuttling between private places rather than the interactions of pedestrians in public ones.

Urban density, beautiful buildings with cafés and bars everywhere, suggest different priorities for time and space, a competition fo attention by artists, poets, social and political radicals making lives about other things than commuting and spending.

The marvel of cities is in its coincidences, the struggles of many kinds of people, poetry given away to strangers under the open neon sky.

The history of the city is a history of freedom and of the definition of pleasure.

Urban walking is a stroll through the shadows, a solicitation of the senses, cruising through the crowd, promenades among the people, seduction by the shops, a rush of rage and righteousness in a riot, the passion of the protest, the sensuality of skulking, the lazy luxury of loitering, the palatable presence of a high and moral tone strangely absent.

In the city, biology is reduced to the human and a few stray species, but the range of activities, of possibilities, is limitless.

The rural walker looks at the general landscape.

The urban walker sees the specifics, looks for particulars, for opportunities.

The city resembles primordial life more than the country, in a less charming way.

The peril of human predators keeps city dwellers in a state of heightened alertness, of strengthened awareness.

Streets are the place left over between buildings.

A house alone is an island surrounded by a sea of open space, but as more and more buildings arise the sea becomes rivers, canals and streams of concrete running between the masses of skyscrapers.

Public space is merely the void between workplaces, shops and dwellings.

Walking the streets is the beginning of citizenship.

Graffiti is an expression of that citizenship.

Walking a city the citizen knows his place and truly inhabits his corner of humanity.

Walking the streets links up reading the map with living one’s life, the personal microcosm with the public macrocosm, a sense of the maze that surrounds us.

Graffiti is a signpost, a mile marker, of place and thought, of harsh reality and artistic expression.

Above: Street art, Århus, Denmark

Too few walk the streets for pleasure.

Pleasure is found in serendipity and the city is a plethora of possibilities and opportunities for serendipity.

Graffiti suggests that the profane can be profound, that the private thought can be publicly expressed, that the anonymous can have a voice synonymous with the common community.

It never occurs to us that streets can be oases rather than deserts.

Above: Street art, Buenos Aires, Argentina

One of the reasons I remain a fan of Charles Dickens is that he was a fan of urban walking and his writing thoroughly explored a city as much as his feet wandered its streets.

Dickens is the great poet of London life and his novels are as much a drama of place as they are of people.

People and places become one another.

Characters are identified as an atmosphere or a principle.

A place takes on a full-fledged personality.

His novels are full of detectives and police inspectors, of criminals who stalk, lovers who seek, and damned souls who flee.

The city is a tangle through which all the characters wander in a colossal game of hide-and-seek.

Only a vast city can allow intricate plots so full of crossed paths and overlapping lives.

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

Under the pattering rain the homeless walk and walk and walk, seeing nothing but the interminable tangle of streets.

Here and there, the police patrol.

Fear peers out of darkened doorways.

The wild moon and clouds are as restless as an uneasy conscience in a tumbled bed.

The shadow of the immense oppresses.

And yet the lonely nocturnal streets can also be comforting, as are the graveyards and shy neighbourhoods abandoned by society who have left the city for creature comforts elsewhere.

We bask in solitude.

Darkness punctuated by night skies punctured by distant stars.

In the country, solitude is geographical.

In the city, it is psychological, a world made up of strangers, strangers surrounded by strangers.

Streets silently bearing one’s secrets and imaginings of the secrets of others.

The starkest of luxuries, uncharted identity with its illimitable possibilities is one of the distinctive qualities of urban living.

An emancipation from family and communal expectation.

An experiment with subculture and identity.

It is an observer’s state.

Cool, withdrawn, senses sharpened, melancholic, alienation and introspection.

The streets are an outlaw romanticism, toughened sensibilities, wrapped in an isolation from which fierce fire burns brightly where whispers break the musing silence.

Can the neon of Miami ever emulate the alley lanterns of London?

Perhaps not.

And yet….

Here too the streets sing of celebration by day, seduction by night.

Above: Miami, Florida

G.K. Chesterton wrote:

Few of us understand the street.

Even when we step into it, we step into it doubtfully, as into a house or room of strangers.

Few of us see through the shining riddle of the street, the strange folk that belong to the street only – the whore and the wastrel, the merchant and the nomad, all who have generation after generation kept their ancient secrets in the full blaze of the sun.

Of the street at night many of us know less.

The street at night is a great house locked up.

Above: Gilbert Keith Chesterton (1874 – 1936)

Located near a mosaic and stone walkway, the Ephesus graffiti shows a handprint that vaguely resembles a heart, along with a footprint, a number, and a carved image of a woman’s head.

Above: Library of Celsus, Ephesus, Turkey

The ancient Romans carved graffiti on walls and monuments, examples of which also survive in Egypt.

Graffiti in the classical world had different connotations than they carry in today’s society concerning content.

Ancient graffiti displayed phrases of love declarations, political rhetoric, and simple words of thought, compared to today’s popular messages of social and political ideals.

The eruption of Vesuvius preserved graffiti in Pompeii, which includes Latin curses, magic spells, declarations of love, insults, alphabets, political slogans, and famous literary quotes, providing insight into ancient Roman street life.

One inscription gives the address of a woman named Novellia Primigenia of Nuceria, a prostitute, apparently of great beauty, whose services were much in demand.

Another shows a phallus accompanied by the text, mansueta tene (“handle with care“).

The heart of a man should have been displayed in its stead.

Disappointed love also found its way onto walls in antiquity:

Whoever loves, go to hell.

I want to break Venus’s ribs with a club and deform her hips.

If she can break my tender heart, why can’t I hit her over the head?

Above: Pompeii graffiti

Excellent question.

We are taught how to respect women and yet women are so often badly behaved.

Are they worthy of respect if they do not act in a manner that merits respect?

Ancient tourists visiting the 5th-century citadel at Sigiriya in Sri Lanka scribbled over 1,800 individual graffiti there between the 6th and 18th centuries.

Etched on the surface of the Mirror Wall, they contain pieces of prose, poetry, and commentary.

The majority of these visitors appear to have been from the elite of society: royalty, officials, professions, and clergy.

There were also soldiers, archers, and even some metalworkers.

The topics range from love to satire, curses, wit, and lament.

Many demonstrate a very high level of literacy and a deep appreciation of art and poetry.

Most of the graffiti refer to the frescoes of semi-nude females found there.

One reads:

Wet with cool dew drops
fragrant with perfume from the flowers
came the gentle breeze
jasmine and water lily
dance in the spring sunshine
side-long glances
of the golden-hued ladies
stab into my thoughts
heaven itself cannot take my mind
as it has been captivated by one lass
among the five hundred I have seen here.

Above: Sigiriya Rock, Sri Lanka

Above: Artwork, Sigiriya Rock, Sri Lanka

Above: Graffiti on the Mirror Wall, Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Among the ancient political graffiti examples were Arab satirist poems.

Yazid al-Himyari, an Umayyad Arab and Persian poet, was mostly known for writing political poetry on the walls between Sajistan and Basra, manifesting a strong hatred towards the Umayyad regime and its rulers.

People used to read and circulate them very widely.

Perhaps this is what those nations ruled by the rigorous need to do:

Dissent through poetry, writing on the wall, art upon the architecture, the music of musing.

Above: Screenshot, Video game Alpha Centauri

Historic forms of graffiti have helped gain understanding into the lifestyles and languages of past cultures.

Errors in spelling and grammar in these graffiti offer insight into the degree of literacy in Roman times and provide clues on the pronunciation of spoken Latin – evidence of the ability to read and write at levels of society where literacy might not be expected.

At Pompeii we find graffiti left by both foreman and workers.

Above: View of Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius, Italy

The brothel contains more than 120 pieces of graffiti, some of which were the work of the prostitutes and some the work of their clients.

The gladiatorial academy was scrawled with graffiti left by the gladiator Celadus Crescens (“Celadus the Thracian makes the girls sigh.“)

Another piece from Pompeii, written on a tavern wall about the owner of the establishment and his questionable wine:

Landlord, may your lies malign
Bring destruction on your head!
You yourself drink unmixed wine,
Water do you sell to your guests instead.

Above: Pompeii, Italy

Above: Inscription in Pompeii lamenting a frustrated love:

Whoever loves, let him flourish, let him perish who knows not love, let him perish twice over whoever forbids love.”

It was not only the Greeks and Romans who produced graffiti:

The Maya site of Tikal in Guatemala contains examples of ancient Maya graffiti. 

Above: Tikal, Guatemala

Viking graffiti survives in Rome and at Newgrange Mound in Ireland.

Above: Newgrange Mound, Ireland

A Varangian scratched his name (Halvdan) in runes on a banister in the Hagia Sophia at Constantinople (Istanbul).

Above: Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

These early forms of graffiti have contributed to the understanding of lifestyles and languages of past cultures.

Graffiti, known as Tacherons, were frequently scratched on Romanesque Scandinavian church walls.

When Renaissance artists (such as Pinturicchio, Raphael, Michelangelo, Ghirlandaio, or Filippino Lippi) descended into the ruins of Nero’s Domus Aurea, they carved or painted their names and returned to initiate the grottesche style of decoration.

Above: Bernardino di Betto (aka Pinturicchio) (1454 – 1513)

Above: Raffaello Sanzio (aka Raphael) (1483 – 1520)

Above: Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni (aka Michelangelo) (1475 – 1564)

Above: Domenico di Tommaso Curradi di Doffo Bigordi (aka Ghirlandaio) (1448 – 1494)

Above: Filippino Lippi (1457 – 1504)

There are also examples of graffiti occurring in American history, such as Independence Rock, a national landmark along the Oregon Trail.

Later, French soldiers carved their names on monuments during the Napoleonic campaign of Egypt in the 1790s. 

Above: Battle of the Pyramids, 21 July 1798

Above: Napoleon Bonaparte (1769 – 1821)

Lord Byron’s survives on one of the columns of the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion in Attica, Greece.

Above: George Gordon Byron (1788 – 1824)

Above: Cape Sounion, Greece

Contemporary graffiti style has been heavily influenced by hip hop culture and the myriad international styles derived from Philadelphia and New York City subway graffiti.

However, there are many other traditions of notable graffiti in the 20th century.

Graffiti have long appeared on building walls, in latrines, railroad boxcars, subways and bridges.

Above: Street art, Memphis, Tennessee, USA

Above: Graffiti, Amsterdam, Netherlands

The oldest known example of modern graffiti are the “monikers” found on boxcars created by hobos and rail workers since the late 1800s.

The Bozo Texino monikers were documented by filmmaker Bill Daniel in his 2005 film, Who is Bozo Texino?.

Some graffiti have their own poignancy.

In World War II, an inscription on a wall at the fortress of Verdun was seen as an illustration of the US response twice in a generation to the wrongs of the Old World:

Austin White – Chicago, Ill – 1918
Austin White – Chicago, Ill – 1945
This is the last time I want to write my name here.

Above: Verdun, France

During World War II and for decades after, the phrase “Kilroy was here” with an accompanying illustration was widespread throughout the world, due to its use by American troops and ultimately filtering into American popular culture.

Shortly after the death of Charlie Parker (1920 – 1955) (nicknamed “Yardbird” or “Bird“), graffiti began appearing around New York with the words “Bird Lives“.

The student protests and general strike of May 1968 saw Paris bedecked in revolutionary, anarchistic, and situationist slogans such as L’ennui est contre-révolutionnaire (“Boredom is counterrevolutionary“) expressed in painted graffiti, poster art, and stencil art.

At the time in the US, other political phrases (such as “Free Huey” about Black Panther Huey Newton) became briefly popular as graffiti in limited areas, only to be forgotten.

Above: Huey Newton (1942 – 1989)

A popular graffito of the early 1970s was “Dick Nixon Before He Dicks You“, reflecting the hostility of the youth culture to that US president.

Above: Richard Nixon (1913 – 1994) (US President: 1969 – 1974)

Rock and roll graffiti is a significant subgenre.

A famous graffito of the 20th century was the inscription in London reading “Clapton is God” in reference to the guitarist Eric Clapton.

Creating the cult of the guitar hero, the phrase was spray-painted by an admirer on a wall in an Islington, north London in the autumn of 1967.

The graffito was captured in a photograph, in which a dog is urinating on the wall.

Above: Eric Clapton

Graffiti also became associated with the anti-establishment punk rock movement beginning in the 1970s.

Bands (such as Black Flag and Crass) and their followers widely stenciled their names and logos.

Many punk night clubs, squats and hangouts are famous for their graffiti.

The Anti-Social Behaviour Act 2003 became Britain’s latest anti-graffiti legislation.

In August 2004, the Keep Britain Tidy campaign issued a press release calling for zero tolerance of graffiti and supporting proposals such as issuing “on the spot” fines to graffiti offenders and banning the sale of aerosol paint to anyone under the age of 16.

The press release also condemned the use of graffiti images in advertising and in music videos, arguing that real-world experience of graffiti stood far removed from its often-portrayed “cool” or “edgy‘” image.

To back the campaign, 123 Members of Parliament (MPs) (including then Prime Minister Tony Blair), signed a charter which stated:

Graffiti is not art, it’s crime.

On behalf of my constituents, I will do all I can to rid our community of this problem.

Above: Tony Blair (British Prime Minister: 1997 – 2007)

In the UK, city councils have the power to take action against the owner of any property that has been defaced under the Anti-Social Behaviour Act 2003 (as amended by the Clean Neighbourhoods and Environment Act 2005) or, in certain cases, the Highways Act.

This is often used against owners of property that are complacent in allowing protective boards to be defaced so long as the property is not damaged.

In July 2008, a conspiracy charge was used to convict graffitists for the first time.

After a three-month police surveillance operation, nine members of the DPM crew were convicted of conspiracy to commit criminal damage costing at least £1 million.

Five of them received prison sentences, ranging from eighteen months to two years.

The unprecedented scale of the investigation and the severity of the sentences rekindled public debate over whether graffiti should be considered art or crime.

Some councils, like those of Stroud and Lörrach (Germany), provide approved areas in the town where graffitists can showcase their talents, including underpasses, car parks, and walls that might otherwise prove a target for the “spray and run“.

Above: Stroud, Gloucestershire, England

Above: Street art, Stroud

Above: Lörrach, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Street art, Lörrach

In Europe, community cleaning squads have responded to graffiti, in some cases with reckless abandon, as when in 1992 in France a local Scout group, attempting to remove modern graffiti, damaged two prehistoric paintings of bison in the Cave of Mayriere Supérieure, near the French village of Bruniquel in Tarn-et-Garonne, earning them the 1992 Ig Nobel Prize in archaeology.

(The Ig Nobel Prize is a satiric prize awarded annually since 1991 to celebrate ten unusual or trivial achievements in scientific research.

Its aim is to “honour achievements that first make people laugh, and then make them think.”

The name of the award is a pun on the Nobel Prize, which it parodies, and on the word ignoble (“not noble“).

Organized by the scientific humor magazine, Annals of Improbable Research (AIR), the Ig Nobel Prizes are presented by Nobel laureates in a ceremony at the Sanders Theater, Harvard University, followed by the winners’ public lectures at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT).)

Above: Cave of Mayrières supérieure, Bruniquel, Tam-et-Garonne department, France

Above: rue Principale, Bruniquel, Tam-et-Garonne department, France

In September 2006, the European Parliament directed the European Commission to create urban environment policies to prevent and eliminate dirt, litter, graffiti, animal excrement, and excessive noise from domestic and vehicular music systems in European cities, along with other concerns over urban life.

In Budapest, Hungary, both a city-backed movement called I Love Budapest and a special police division tackle the problem, including the provision of approved areas.

Above: Budapest, Hungary

Style Wars depicted not only famous graffitists (such as Skeme, Dondi, MinOne, and ZEPHYR), but also reinforced graffiti’s role within New York’s emerging hip-hop culture by incorporating famous early break-dancing groups (such as Rock Steady Crew) into the film and featuring rap in the soundtrack.

Above: Graffiti artist Skeme

Above: Graffiti artist Dondi

Above: Graffiti artist Min One

Above: Graffiti artist Zephyr

Above: Rock Steady Crew

Although many officers of the New York City Police Department found this film to be controversial, Style Wars is still recognized as the most prolific film representation of what was going on within the young hip hop culture of the early 1980s.

Fab 5 Freddy and Futura 2000 took hip hop graffiti to Paris and London as part of the New York City Rap Tour in 1983.

Above: Graffiti artist Fab 5 Freddy

Above: Graffiti artist Futura 2000

This period also saw the emergence of the new stencil graffiti genre.

Some of the first examples were created in 1981 by graffitists Blek le Rat in Paris, in 1982 by Jef Aerosol in Tours (France). 

Above: Graffiti artist Blek le Rat

Above: Graffiti artist Jef Aerosol

By 1985, stencils had appeared in other cities including New York City, Sydney, and Melbourne, where they were documented by American photographer Charles Gatewood and Australian photographer Rennie Ellis.

Above: Street art, New York City, New York, USA

Above: Graffiti, Sydney, Australia

In an effort to reduce vandalism, many cities in Australia have designated walls or areas exclusively for use by graffitists.

One early example is the “Graffiti Tunnel” located at the Camperdown Campus of the University of Sydney, which is available for use by any student at the university to tag, advertise, poster, and create “art“.

Advocates of this idea suggest that this discourages petty vandalism yet encourages artists to take their time and produce great art, without worry of being caught or arrested for vandalism or trespassing.

Above: Graffiti Tunnel, Sydney, Australia

Others disagree with this approach, arguing that the presence of legal graffiti walls does not demonstrably reduce illegal graffiti elsewhere.

Some local government areas throughout Australia have introduced “anti-graffiti squads“, who clean graffiti in the area, and such crews as BCW (Buffers Can’t Win) have taken steps to keep one step ahead of local graffiti cleaners.

Many state governments have banned the sale or possession of spray paint to those under the age of 18 (age of majority).

However, a number of local governments in Victoria have taken steps to recognize the cultural heritage value of some examples of graffiti, such as prominent political graffiti.

Tough new graffiti laws have been introduced in Australia with fines of up to A$26,000 and two years in prison.

Above: Street art, Sydney, Australia

Melbourne is a prominent graffiti city of Australia with many of its lanes being tourist attractions, such as Hosier Lane in particular, a popular destination for photographers, wedding photography, and backdrops for corporate print advertising.

The Lonely Planet travel guide cites this Melbourne street as a major attraction.

Above: Hosier Lane, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

All forms of graffiti, including sticker art, poster, stencil art, and wheat pasting, can be found in many places throughout the city.

Prominent street art precincts include Fitzroy, Collingwood, Northcote, Brunswick, St. Kilda and the CBD, where stencil and sticker art is prominent.

Above: Street art, Fitzroy, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Collingwood, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Northcote, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Sunshine Lane, Brunswick, Melbourne

Above: Street art, St. Kilda, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Central Business District (CBD), Melbourne

As one moves farther away from the city, mostly along suburban train lines, graffiti tags become more prominent.

Many international artists such as Banksy have left their work in Melbourne and in early 2008 a perspex screen was installed to prevent a Banksy stencil art piece from being destroyed, it has survived since 2003 through the respect of local street artists avoiding posting over it, although it has recently had paint tipped over it.

Above: Banksy street art, Melbourne

In February 2008, Helen Clark, the New Zealand Prime Minister at that time, announced a government crackdown on tagging and other forms of graffiti vandalism, describing it as a destructive crime representing an invasion of public and private property.

New legislation subsequently adopted included a ban on the sale of paint spray cans to persons under 18 and increases in maximum fines for the offence from NZ$200 to NZ$2,000 or extended community service.

Above: Helen Clark (New Zealand Prime Minister: 1999 – 2008)

The issue of tagging become a widely debated one following an incident in Auckland during January 2008 in which a middle-aged property owner stabbed one of two teenage taggers to death and was subsequently convicted of manslaughter.

Tagging is the practice of someone spray-painting “their name, initial or logo onto a public surface“.

Above: Graffiti artist Pihema Cameron (1993 – 2008)

With the popularity and legitimization of graffiti has come a level of commercialization.

In 2001, computer giant IBM launched an advertising campaign in Chicago and San Francisco which involved people spray painting on sidewalks a peace symbol, a heart and a penguin, to represent “Peace, Love, and Linux“.

IBM paid Chicago and San Francisco collectively US$120,000 for punitive damages and clean-up costs.

Above: Logo of the International Business Machines Corporation

In 2005, a similar ad campaign was launched by Sony and executed by its advertising agency in New York, Chicago, Atlanta, Philadelphia, Los Angeles, and Miami, to market its handheld PSP gaming system.

In this campaign, taking notice of the legal problems of the IBM campaign, Sony paid building owners for the rights to paint on their buildings “a collection of dizzy-eyed urban kids playing with the PSP as if it were a skateboard, a paddle, or a rocking horse“.

Above: Sony PSP graffiti

Marc Ecko, an urban clothing designer, has been an advocate of graffiti as an art form during this period, stating that:

Graffiti is without question the most powerful art movement in recent history and has been a driving inspiration throughout my career.

Above: Marc Ecko

Graffiti have become a common stepping stone for many members of both the art and design communities in North America and abroad.

Within the US graffitists (such as Mike Giant, Pursue, Rime, Noah, and countless others) have made careers in skateboard, apparel, and shoe design for companies (such as DC Shoes, Adidas, Rebel8, Osiris, or Circa). 

Above: Graffiti artist Mike Giant

Above: Graffiti artist Pursue

Above: Graffiti artist Rime

Above: Logo of Rebel 8

Meanwhile, there are many others (such as DZINE, Daze, Blade, and El Mac) who have made the switch to being gallery artists, often not even using their initial medium, spray paint.

Above: Graffiti artist Dzine

Above: Graffiti artist Daze

Above: Graffiti artist Blade

Above: Graffiti artist El Mac

Brazil “boasts a unique and particularly rich, graffiti scene earning it an international reputation as the place to go for artistic inspiration.

Graffiti “flourishes in every conceivable space in Brazil’s cities“.

Artistic parallels “are often drawn between the energy of São Paulo today and 1970s New York“.

The “sprawling metropolis” of São Paulo has “become the new shrine to graffiti” .

Poverty and unemployment and the epic struggles and conditions of the country’s marginalised peoples” and “Brazil’s chronic poverty” are the main engines that “have fuelled a vibrant graffiti culture“.

In world terms, Brazil has “one of the most uneven distributions of income.

Laws and taxes change frequently.

Such factors contribute to a very fluid society, riven with those economic divisions and social tensions that underpin and feed the “folkloric vandalism and an urban sport for the disenfranchised“, that is South American graffiti art.

Above: Street art, Sao Paulo, Brazil

Prominent Brazilian graffitists include Os Gêmeos, Boleta, Nunca, Nina, Speto, Tikka, and Titi Freak. 

Their artistic success and involvement in commercial design ventures has highlighted divisions within the Brazilian graffiti community between adherents of the cruder transgressive form of pichação (Brazilian graffiti) and the more conventionally artistic values of the practitioners of grafite (graffiti).

Above: Identical twin graffiti artists Os Gemeos

Above: Graffiti artist Boleta

Above: Nunca mural, Sorocaba, Brazil

Above: Graffiti artist Nina

Above: Graffiti artist Speto

Above: Graffiti artist Tikka

Above: Titi Freak street art

Graffiti in the Middle East has emerged slowly, with taggers operating in Egypt, Lebanon, the Gulf countries like Bahrein or the United Arab Emirates (UAE), Israel and in Iran.

The major Iranian newspaper Hamshahri has published two articles on illegal writers in the city with photographic coverage of Iranian artist A1one’s works on Tehran walls.

Above: Logo of Iranian newspaper Hamshahri

Above: Graffiti artist A1one

Tokyo-based design magazine, PingMag, has interviewed A1one and featured photographs of his work. 

The Israeli West Bank barrier has become a site for graffiti, reminiscent in this sense of the Berlin Wall.

Above: West Bank Barrier graffiti art

Above: Berlin Wall (1961 – 1989) graffiti

Many graffitists in Israel come from other places around the globe, such as JUIF from Los Angeles and DEVIONE from London.

Above: Juif street art

Above: Graffiti artist Devione

The religious reference “נ נח נחמ נחמן מאומן” (“Na Nach Nachma Nachman Meuman“) is commonly seen in graffiti around Israel.

Graffiti has played an important role within the street art scene in the Middle East and North Africa (MENA), especially following the events of the Arab Spring of 2011 or the Sudanese Revolution (2018 – 2019).

Above: The MENA (Middle East and North Africa) or WANA (West Asia and North Africa) region according to 13 definitions:

  • 7 from United Nations agencies/programmes
  • 3 from agricultural organizations
  • 2 from demographics research institutes
  • 1 from historians.
  • Dark blue countries/territories are included in more than 66% of definitions
  • Sky blue in 33–66% of definitions
  • Light blue in fewer than 33% of definitions of the MENA/WANA region.  

Above: Images of the Arab Spring (2010 – 2012)

Clockwise from top left: 2011 Egyptian revolution (25 January – 11 February), Tunisian revolution (2010 – 2011), Yemeni uprising (2011 – 2012), 2011 Syrian uprising (15 March – 28 July)

Above: Sudanese protestors gather in front of government buildings in Khartoum to celebrate the final signing of the Draft Constitutional Declaration between military and civil representatives, 19 August 2019

Graffiti is a tool of expression in the context of conflict in the region, allowing people to raise their voices politically and socially.

Famous street artist Banksy has had an important effect in the street art scene in the MENA area, especially in Palestine where some of his works are located on the West Bank barrier and in Bethlehem.

Above: Banksy graffiti at the Israeli West Bank barrier in Bethlehem

There are also a large number of graffiti influences in Southeast Asian countries that mostly come from modern Western culture, such as Malaysia, where graffiti have long been a common sight in Malaysia’s capital city, Kuala Lumpur (KL).

Since 2010, the country has begun hosting a street festival to encourage all generations and people from all walks of life to enjoy and encourage Malaysian street culture.

Above: Graffiti art in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

In China, Mao Zedong in the 1920s used revolutionary slogans and paintings in public places to galvanise the country’s Communist Revolution.

Above: Mao Zedong (1893 – 1976)

Based on different national conditions, many people believe that China’s attitude towards Graffiti is fierce, but in fact, according to Lance Crayon in his film Spray Paint Beijing: Graffiti in the Capital of China,

Graffiti is generally accepted in Beijing, with artists not seeing much police interference.

Political and religiously sensitive graffiti, however, is not allowed.

In Hong Kong, Tsang Tsou Choi was known as the King of Kowloon for his calligraphy graffiti over many years, in which he claimed ownership of the area.

Now some of his work is preserved officially.

Above: Graffiti artist Tsang Tsou-choi (1921 – 2007)

In Taiwan, the government has made some concessions to graffitists.

Since 2005 they have been allowed to freely display their work along some sections of riverside retaining walls in designated “Graffiti Zones“. 

From 2007, Taipei’s department of cultural affairs also began permitting graffiti on fences around major public construction sites.

Department head Yong-ping Lee stated:

We will promote graffiti starting with the public sector, and then later in the private sector too.

It’s our goal to beautify the city with graffiti“.

The government later helped organize a graffiti contest in Ximending, a popular shopping district. graffitists caught working outside of these designated areas still face fines up to NT$6,000 under a Department of Environmental Protection regulation.

However, Taiwanese authorities can be relatively lenient, one veteran police officer stating anonymously,

Unless someone complains about vandalism, we won’t get involved.

We don’t go after it proactively.”

Above: Street art, Taipei, Taiwan

In 1993, after several expensive cars in Singapore were spray-painted, the police arrested a student from the Singapore American School, Michael P. Fay, questioned him, and subsequently charged him with vandalism.

Fay pleaded guilty to vandalizing a car in addition to stealing road signs.

Under the 1966 Vandalism Act of Singapore, originally passed to curb the spread of Communist graffiti in Singapore, the court sentenced him to four months in jail, a fine of S$3,500 (US$2,233), and a caning. 

Above: Michael P. Kay

The New York Times ran several editorials and op-eds that condemned the punishment and called on the American public to flood the Singaporean embassy with protests.

Although the Singapore government received many calls for clemency, Fay’s caning took place in Singapore on 5 May 1994.

Fay had originally received a sentence of six strokes of the cane, but the presiding President of Singapore, Ong Teng Cheong, agreed to reduce his caning sentence to four lashes.

Above: Ong Teng Cheong (Singapore President: 1936 – 2002)

In South Korea, Park Jung-soo was fined two million South Korean won by the Seoul Central District Court for spray-painting a rat on posters of the G-20 Summit a few days before the event in November 2011.

Park alleged that the initial in “G-20” sounds like the Korean word for “rat“, but Korean government prosecutors alleged that Park was making a derogatory statement about the president of South Korea, Lee Myung-bak, the host of the Summit.

Above: Member countries of the G20 (pink) / Countries represented through the membership of the European Union (purple) / Countries permanently invited (yellow)

Above: Lee Myung-bak (South Korean President: 2008 – 2014)

This case led to public outcry and debate on the lack of government tolerance and in support of freedom of expression.

The court ruled that the painting, “an ominous creature like a rat” amounts to “an organized criminal activity” and upheld the fine while denying the prosecution’s request for imprisonment for Park.

Above: Graffiti artist Park Jung-Soo

The modern-day graffitists can be found with an arsenal of various materials that allow for a successful production of a piece.

This includes such techniques as scribing.

However, spray paint in aerosol cans is the number one medium for graffiti.

From this commodity comes different styles, technique, and abilities to form master works of graffiti.

Spray paint can be found at hardware and art stores and comes in virtually every colour.

Stencil graffiti is created by cutting out shapes and designs in a stiff material (such as cardboard or subject folders) to form an overall design or image.

The stencil is then placed on the “canvas” gently and with quick, easy strokes of the aerosol can, the image begins to appear on the intended surface.

Above: Graffiti Tunnel, San Francisco, California, USA

Modern graffiti art often incorporates additional arts and technologies.

For example, Graffiti Research Lab has encouraged the use of projected images and magnetic light-emitting diodes (throwies) as new media for graffitists. 

Yarnbombing is another recent form of graffiti.

Yarnbombers occasionally target previous graffiti for modification, which had been avoided among the majority of graffitists.

Above: Graffiti, Zumaia, Spain

Tagging is the practice of someone spray-painting “their name, initial or logo onto a public surface“.

A number of recent examples of graffiti make use of hashtags.

Above: Graffiti, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

When graffiti artist Alan Ket was growing up in Brooklyn, he got good at improvisation.

Above: Alan Ket, Museum of Graffiti, Miami, Florida

He remembers:

By the time I grew up, all the spray cans were locked up in cages.

I used to use Ban Roll-On and take off the top, then I would steal erasers from the classroom and pull off the felt, then use the felt tip on the Roll-On.

I would go to the supermarket and get purple supermarket ink and fill it.

That eye for detail paid off.

Along with co-founder Allison Freidin, Ket oversees the Museum of Graffiti in its home next to Wynwood Walls.

Above: Alison Freidin

It is a fitting location for the Museum, which opened in late 2019.

It offers a fascinating look into the historical context that made the mural park one of Miami’s most popular attractions.

Its location is 5,000 square feet.

Its mission is to teach people about an art movement that is now fixed in our culture and commerce.

Friedin says:

So many people come here and are really focused on the narrative that the press and the government have been feeding them for so many years, that graffiti is gang-related, that graffiti artists are dangerous criminals.

A lot of folks come in with only having heard one side of the story.

The Museum of Graffiti provides that other very important half that is from marginalized artists who don’t have a platform other than the streets.

A trip through the Museum encompasses the early forms of tagging and introduces such innovators as Philadelphia’s Cornbread, who started creating street art in 1965 and famously tagged the Jackson 5’s plane and an elephant at the zoo.

Above: Graffiti artist Cornbread

Above: The Jackson 5 from left to right: Tito, Marlon, Michael (1958 – 2009), Jackie, and Jermaine Jackson

There is also a nod to the flamboyant Rammellzee, a visual artist, performance artist and hip-hop musician who recorded “Beat Box“, one of the most valued and collectible hip-hop records of all time.

Above: Artist Rammellzee

(Jean-Michel Baptiste designed the cover.)

The self-proclaimed birthplace of graffiti, New York City, figures prominently in the telling of this history.

There is a tribute to the New York subway trains once covered in graffiti (much to the dismay of vindictive transit authorities) and nods to entrepreneurial artists who found ways to monetize their work through album covers, merchandise like T-shirts and collectibles, skateboards and tattoos.

(For example, there is a replica of the Shirt King store from the Colosseum Mall in Queens and a mini tattoo parlor.)

Past and future collide in these rooms.

Pass a wall of the original spray paints used in early street art and find yourself in an Oculus headset for a virtual reality opportunity to let your inner artist flow.

One of the hardest things about putting the Museum together has been finding historical artifacts, Freidin says.

Too many materials were left moldering in basements or storage units.

Like they did when their children left comic books behind, overzealous parents threw away much of what might have been valuable.

Freidin says:

Because it was not treated as an art form until recently, the archives are very unstable.

We have lost important pieces of ephemera or antiques that tell the history of the culture, because there has been no preservation of that culture.

Freidin did manage to track down a couple of the New York subway turnstiles, still in their original red and yellow, for guests to walk through at the end of the tour.

The Museum won’t neglect its Wynwood roots, either.

Above: Museum of Graffiti, Miami, Florida

An exhibit of Puerto Rican artists opened in March 2022, paying homage to the neighbourhood’s original residents.

Above: Street art, San Jian, Puerto Rico

There are free drawing classes for kids on Sundays and graffiti classes for anyone who wants to learn how to use spray cans to draw characters.

But the story the Museum of Graffiti is telling is far from over.

Ket says:

There is no complete story.

It is a global story.

Every city, every region has its own story.

We are gathering all these stories to join them and give you an overview of what has happened.

It is still being discovered.”

Above: Street art, Budapest, Hungary

In the early 1980s, the first art galleries to show graffitists to the public were Fashion Moda in the Bronx, the Now Gallery and the Fun Gallery, both in the East Village, Manhattan.

Above: Fashion Moda, The Bronx, New York City, New York, USA

Above: The Now Gallery, East Village, Manhattan, New York City

Above: The Fun Gallery, East Village, Manhattan

A 2006 exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum displayed graffiti as an art form that began in New York’s outer boroughs and reached great heights in the early 1980s with the work of Crash, Lee, Daze, Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

Above: Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn, New York City

Above: Graffiti artist Crash

Above: Graffiti artist Lee

Above: Street art, Daze, Brooklyn

Above: Keith Haring (1958 – 1990)

Above: Keith Haring Mural, Collingwood, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Above: Jean-Michel Basquiat (1960 – 1988)

Above: Graffito of Jean-Michel Basquiat

The Brooklyn Museum displayed 22 works by New York graffitists, including Crash, Daze, and Lady Pink.

Above: Street art, Crash, Wynwood Walls, Miami, Florida

Above: Street art, Daze, Brooklyn

Above: Graffiti artist Lady Pink

In an article about the exhibition in the magazine Time Out, curator Charlotta Kotik said that she hoped the exhibition would cause viewers to rethink their assumptions about graffiti.

From the 1970s onwards, Burhan Dogancay photographed urban walls all over the world.

These he then archived for use as sources of inspiration for his painterly works.

The project today known as “Walls of the World” grew beyond even his own expectations and comprises about 30,000 individual images.

It spans a period of 40 years across five continents and 114 countries.

In 1982, photographs from this project comprised a one-man exhibition titled “Les murs murmurent, ils crient, ils chantent …” (The walls whisper, shout and sing …) at the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris.

Above: Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris, France

In Australia, art historians have judged some local graffiti of sufficient creative merit to rank them firmly within the arts. 

Oxford University Press’ art history text Australian Painting 1788–2000 concludes with a long discussion of graffiti’s key place within contemporary visual culture, including the work of several Australian practitioners.

Between March and April 2009, 150 artists exhibited 300 pieces of graffiti at the Grand Palais in Paris.

Above: Grand Palais, Paris, France

Theories on the use of graffiti by avant-garde artists have a history dating back at least to the Asger Jorn, who in 1962 painting declared in a graffiti-like gesture:

The avant-garde won’t give up.”

Above: Danish artist Asger Jorn (1914 – 1973)

Many contemporary analysts and even art critics have begun to see artistic value in some graffiti and to recognize it as a form of public art.

According to many art researchers, particularly in the Netherlands and in Los Angeles, that type of public art is, in fact an effective tool of social emancipation or, in the achievement of a political goal.

In times of conflict, such murals have offered a means of communication and self-expression for members of these socially, ethnically, or racially divided communities, and have proven themselves as effective tools in establishing dialog and thus, of addressing cleavages in the long run.

Above: Street art, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Above: Street art, Los Angeles, California, USA

The Berlin Wall was also extensively covered by graffiti reflecting social pressures relating to the oppressive Soviet rule over the German Democratic Republic (GDR) (East Germany).

Above: My God, Help me to survive this deadly love graffiti painting on the Berlin Wall (1961 – 1989) depicting Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev (1906 – 1982) kissing East German leader Erich Honecker (1912 – 1994)

Above: Berlin Wall – “Anyone who wants to keep the world as it is does not want it to remain.”

Many graffitists choose to protect their identities and remain anonymous or to hinder prosecution.

With the commercialization of graffiti (and hip hop in general), in most cases, even with legally painted “graffiti” art, graffitists tend to choose anonymity.

This may be attributed to various reasons or a combination of reasons.

Graffiti still remains the one of four hip hop elements that is not considered “performance art” despite the image of the “singing and dancing star” that sells hip hop culture to the mainstream.

Being a graphic form of art, it might also be said that many graffitists still fall in the category of the introverted archetypal artist.

Above: Banksy mural, Bethlehem, Israel

Banksy is one of the world’s most notorious and popular street artists who continues to remain faceless in today’s society.

Above: Slave labour, street art, Banksy, Wood Green, London, England

He is known for his political, anti-war stencil art mainly in Bristol, England, but his work may be seen anywhere from Los Angeles to Palestine.

Above: Street art, Banksy, Bristol, England

Above: Naked man, street art, Banksy, Park Street, Bristol

Above: The girl with the pierced eardrum, street art, Banksy, Bristol, England

Above: Banksy street art above bus shelter, Admiralty Road, Great Yarmouth, England

Above: Oscar Wilde (1854 – 1900) – Escaping prisoner, street art, Banksy, Reading, England

Above: Swinger, street art, Banksy, New Orleans, Louisiana, USA

Above: No Loitering, street art, Banksy, New Orleans – Building derelict since the Hurricane Katrina levee failure disaster of 2005

Above: Season’s Greetings, street art, Banksy, Port Talbot, Wales

Above: Children of War, street art, Banksy, Independence Square, Kyiv, Ukraine

Above: Street art, Banksy, bombed building, Irpin, Ukraine

Above: Steve Jobs (1955 – 2011) – The son of a migrant from Syria, street art, Banksy, Calais, France

Above: Rat race, street art, Banksy, 14th Street, Manhattan, New York City

Above: Parachuting rat, street art, Banksy, Melbourne, Australia

In the UK, Banksy is the most recognizable icon for this cultural artistic movement and keeps his identity a secret to avoid arrest.

Above: Devolved Parliament, Banksy

Much of Banksy’s artwork may be seen around the streets of London and surrounding suburbs, although he has painted pictures throughout the world, including the Middle East, where he has painted on Israel’s controversial West Bank barrier with satirical images of life on the other side.

Above: Street art, Banksy, Brick Lane, East End, London, England

Above: Charles Manson (1934 – 2017) – Hitchhiker to Anywhere, street art, Banksy, Archway, London, England

Above: Ozone’s Angel, street art, Banksy, London, England

Above: ATM attacking a girl, street art, Banksy, Rosebery Avenue, London, England

Above: Shop until you drop, street art, Banksy, Mayfair, London, England –

We can’t do anything to change the world until capitalism crumbles.

In the meantime we should all go shopping to console ourselves.

Above: Girl with balloon / There is always hope, street art, Banksy, South Bank, London, England

One depicted a hole in the wall with an idyllic beach, while another shows a mountain landscape on the other side.

A number of exhibitions also have taken place since 2000.

Recent works of art have fetched vast sums of money.

Banksy’s art is a prime example of the classic controversy:

Vandalism vs. art.

Above: Street art, Banksy, Bethlehem, Israel

Above: Civilian drone strike, charity work for Campaign against Arms Trade and Reprieve, Banksy

(Reprieve is a nonprofit organization of international lawyers and investigators whose stated goal is to “fight for the victims of extreme human rights abuses with legal action and public education“.

Their main focus is on the death penalty, indefinite detention without trial (such as in Guantanamo), extraordinary rendition (state-sponsored forcible abduction) and extrajudicial killing (the deliberate killing of a person without the lawful authority granted by a judicial proceeding). )

Art supporters endorse his work distributed in urban areas as pieces of art and some councils, such as Bristol and Islington, have officially protected them, while officials of other areas have deemed his work to be vandalism and have removed it.

Above: The Grin Reaper, Banksy

Above: Painting for saints / Game changer – NHS tribute, street art, Banksy, Southampton General Hospital, England

Pixnit is another artist who chose to keep her identity from the general public. 

Her work focuses on beauty and design aspects of graffiti as opposed to Banksy’s anti-government shock value.

Her paintings are often of flower designs above shops and stores in her local urban area of Cambridge, Massachusetts.

Some store owners endorse her work and encourage others to do similar work as well.

Above: Graffiti artist Pixnit

Graffiti artists may become offended if photographs of their art are published in a commercial context without their permission.

In March 2020, the Finnish graffiti artist Psyke expressed his displeasure at the newspaper Ilta-Sanomat publishing a photograph of a Peugeot 208 in an article about new cars, with his graffiti prominently shown on the background.

The artist claims he does not want his art being used in commercial context, not even if he were to receive compensation.

Above: Graffiti artist Psyke

Territorial graffiti marks urban neighborhoods with tags and logos to differentiate certain groups from others.

These images are meant to show outsiders a stern look at whose turf is whose.

The subject matter of gang-related graffiti consists of cryptic symbols and initials strictly fashioned with unique calligraphies.

Gang members use graffiti to designate membership throughout the gang, to differentiate rivals and associates and, most commonly, to mark borders which are both territorial and ideological.

Above: Gang symbol markings on public property, Millwood, Washington, USA

Many restrictions of civil gang injunctions are designed to help address and protect the physical environment and limit graffiti.

Provisions of gang injunctions include things such as:

  • restricting the possession of marker pens, spray paint cans, or other sharp objects capable of defacing private or public property
  • spray painting, or marking with marker pens, scratching, applying stickers, or otherwise applying graffiti on any public or private property, including, but not limited to the street, alley, residences, block walls, and fences, vehicles or any other real or personal property.

Some injunctions contain wording that restricts damaging or vandalizing both public and private property, including but not limited to any vehicle, light fixture, door, fence, wall, gate, window, building, street sign, utility box, telephone box, tree, or power pole.

Above: Asper Jorn graffiti, “It is forbidden to forbid.“, Paris, 1968

Graffiti has been used as a means of advertising both legally and illegally. 

Bronx-based TATS CRU has made a name for themselves doing legal advertising campaigns for companies, such as Coca-Cola, McDonald’s, Toyota and MTV.

Above: Graffiti artists Tats Cru

In the UK, Covent Garden’s Boxfresh used stencil images of a Zapatista revolutionary in the hopes that cross referencing would promote their store.

Above: Graffiti artist Boxfresh

Above: Street art, Boxfresh, Richmond, Virginia

Smirnoff hired artists to use reverse graffiti (the use of high pressure hoses to clean dirty surfaces to leave a clean image in the surrounding dirt) to increase awareness of their product.

Graffiti often has a reputation as part of a subculture that rebels against authority, although the considerations of the practitioners often diverge and can relate to a wide range of attitudes.

It can express a political practice and can form just one tool in an array of resistance techniques.

One early example includes the anarcho-punk band Crass, who conducted a campaign of stenciling anti-war, anarchist, feminist and anti-consumerist messages throughout the London Underground system during the late 1970s and early 1980s.

Above: Crass at the Cleatormoor Civic Hall, UK, 3 May 1984

Left to right: Pete Wright (bass), Steve Ignorant (vocals), N.A. Palmer (guitar).

In Amsterdam, graffiti was a major part of the punk scene.

The city was covered with names such as “De Zoot“, “Vendex“, and “Dr Rat“.

Above: Graffiti artist Vendex

Above: Graffiti artist Dr. Rat

To document the graffiti a punk magazine was started that was called Gallerie Anus.

So when hip hop came to Europe in the early 1980s there was already a vibrant graffiti culture.

Above: Hip hop musician Grandmaster Flash

The student protests and general strike of May 1968 saw Paris bedecked in revolutionary, anarchistic and situationist slogans, such as L’ennui est contre-révolutionnaire (“Boredom is counterrevolutionary“) and Lisez moins, vivez plus (“Read less, live more“).

While not exhaustive, the graffiti gave a sense of the ‘millenarian’ and rebellious spirit, tempered with a good deal of verbal wit, of the strikers.

Above: Paris, France, May 1968

The developments of graffiti art which took place in art galleries and colleges as well as “on the street” or “underground“, contributed to the resurfacing in the 1990s of a far more overtly politicized art form in the subvertising, culture jamming or tactical media movements.

These movements or styles tend to classify the artists by their relationship to their social and economic contexts, since, in most countries, graffiti art remains illegal in many forms except when using non-permanent paint.

Above: Graffiti on a wall in Čakovec, Croatia

Since the 1990s with the rise of Street Art, a growing number of artists are switching to non-permanent paints and non-traditional forms of painting.

Above: French Resistance hero Pierre Brossolette, Street art, 5th Arrondissement, Paris, France

Contemporary practitioners, accordingly, have varied and often conflicting practices.

Some individuals, such as Alexander Brener, have used the medium to politicize other art forms, and have used the prison sentences enforced on them as a means of further protest.

(Alexander Brener is a Russian performance “artist” and a self-described political activist.

Above: Alexander Davidovich Brener

Brener’s performances of note include defecating in front of a painting by Vincent van Gogh at the Alexander Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts in Moscow, having sex in front of the Monument to Alexander Pushkin in Rostov-on-Don, and vandalizing art works by other artists.

Above: Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts, Moscow, Russia

Above: Monument to Alexander Puskin, Rostov-on-Don, Russia

Above: Russian writer Alexander Pushkin (1799 – 1837)

He was jailed in 1997 for painting a green dollar sign on Kazimir Malevich’s painting Suprematisme

Above: Suprematism (1927), Kazimir Malevich

In the court case Brener said in his defence:

The cross is a symbol of suffering, the dollar sign a symbol of trade and merchandise.

On humanitarian grounds are the ideas of Jesus Christ of higher significance than those of the money.

What I did was not against the painting.

I view my act as a dialogue with Malevich.

I doubt Malevich would have felt the same.

Above: Kazimir Severinovich Malevich (1879 – 1935), Self-portrait (1910)

Giancarlo Politi, the editor of Flash Art, resolutely defended Brener from the pages of his magazine, stirring controversy and campaigning for his acquittal.

Brener was sentenced to five months in prison, where he wrote the essay Obossani Pistolet.

In the text he explains his beliefs and summarizes his actions.

In 2000, Brener disrupted the press conference of Manifesta 3 in Ljubljana by spraying slogans on the presentation screen and handing out leaflets stating:

Demolish neo-liberalist multicultural art system now!

Bodyguards came and dragged Brener out of the hall.

He was later arrested by Slovenian secret police in the streets.

Above: Images of Ljubljana, Slovenia

In 2003, Brener vandalized the work of Swiss-Italian artist Gianni Motti during the opening of Motti’s exhibition “Turnover” at Artra Gallery in Milan.

Above: Gianni Motti

Brener co-wrote a number of books together with Austrian artist and critic Barbara Schurz, including: 

Above: Barbara Schurz and Alexander Brenner

  • Bukaka spat Here

  • Tattoos auf Gefängnissen (Tattoos of Prisoners)

  • Anti Technologies of Resistance 
  • The Art of Destruction

Try as I may, I cannot respect Brener.)

The practices of anonymous groups and individuals also vary widely.

Practitioners by no means always agree with each other’s practices.

For example, the anti-capitalist art group the Space Hijackers did a piece in 2004 about the contradiction between the capitalistic elements of Banksy and his use of political imagery.

Above: The Space Hijackers

Berlin human rights activist Irmela Mensah-Schramm has received global media attention and numerous awards for her 35-year campaign of effacing neo-Nazi and other right-wing extremist graffiti throughout Germany, often by altering hate speech in humorous ways.

Above: Irmela Mensah-Schramm

In the Serbian capital, Belgrade, graffiti depicting a uniformed former general of the Serbian army and war criminal, convicted for war crimes and crimes against humanity, including genocide and ethnic cleansing in the Bosnian War, Ratko Mladic, appeared in a military salute alongside the words: 

General, thank your mother“. 

Above: Ratko Mladic mural, Belgrade, Serbia

Aleks Eror, Berlin-based journalist, explains how “veneration of historical and wartime figures” through street art is not a new phenomenon in the region of former Yugoslavia, and that “in most cases is firmly focused on the future, rather than retelling the past“.

Eror is not only an analyst, but he is pointing to danger of such an expressions for the region’s future.

Above: Aleks Eror

In a long expose on the subject of Bosnian genocide denial, at Balkan Diskurs magazine and multimedia platform website, Kristina Gadže and Taylor Whitsell referred to these experiences as a young generations’ “cultural heritage“, in which young are being exposed to celebration and affirmation of war-criminals as part of their “formal education” and “inheritance“.

There are numerous examples of genocide denial through celebration and affirmation of war criminals throughout the region of Western Balkans inhabited by Serbs using this form of artistic expression.

Several more of these graffiti are found in the Serbian capital, and many more across Serbia and Bosnian and Herzegovinian administrative entity, Republika Srpska, which is the ethnic Serbian majority enclave.

Critics point that Serbia as a state, is willing to defend the mural of convicted war criminal, and have no intention to react on cases of genocide denial, noting that Interior Minister of Serbia, Aleksandar Vulin decision to ban any gathering with an intent to remove the mural, with the deployment of riot police, sends the message of “tacit endorsement“.

Consequently, on 9 November 2021, Serbian heavy police in riot gear, with graffiti creators and their supporters, blocked the access to the mural to prevent human rights groups and other activists to paint over it and mark the International Day Against Fascism and Antisemitism in that way, and even arrested two civic activist for throwing eggs at the graffiti.

Above: Flag of Serbia

Graffiti may also be used as an offensive expression.

This form of graffiti may be difficult to identify, as it is mostly removed by the local authority (as councils which have adopted strategies of criminalization also strive to remove graffiti quickly). 

Therefore, existing racist graffiti is mostly more subtle and at first sight, not easily recognized as “racist“.

It can then be understood only if one knows the relevant “local code” (social, historical, political, temporal, and spatial), which is seen as heteroglot and thus a ‘unique set of conditions‘ in a cultural context.

A spatial code, for example, could be that there is a certain youth group in an area that is engaging heavily in racist activities.

So, for residents (knowing the local code), a graffiti containing only the name or abbreviation of this gang already is a racist expression, reminding the offended people of their gang activities.

Also graffiti is in most cases, the herald of more serious criminal activity to come.

A person who does not know these gang activities would not be able to recognize the meaning of this graffiti.

Also if a tag of this youth group or gang is placed on a building occupied by asylum seekers, for example, its racist character is even stronger.

By making the graffiti less explicit (as adapted to social and legal constraints), these drawings are less likely to be removed, but do not lose their threatening and offensive character.

Above: Graffiti, George Floyd protest, Minneapolis, Minnesota, June 2020

Elsewhere, activists in Russia have used painted caricatures of local officials with their mouths as potholes, to show their anger about the poor state of the roads.

In Manchester, England, a graffitist painted obscene images around potholes, which often resulted in their being repaired within 48 hours.

Spray paint has many negative environmental effects.

The paint contains toxic chemicals, and the can uses volatile hydrocarbon gases to spray the paint onto a surface.

Volatile organic compound (VOC) leads to ground level ozone formation and most of graffiti related emissions are VOCs.

A 2010 paper estimates 4,862 tons of VOCs were released in the United States in activities related to graffiti.

Graffiti databases have increased in the past decade because they allow vandalism incidents to be fully documented against an offender and help the police and prosecution charge and prosecute offenders for multiple counts of vandalism.

They also provide law enforcement the ability to rapidly search for an offender’s moniker or tag in a simple, effective, and comprehensive way.

These systems can also help track costs of damage to city to help allocate an anti-graffiti budget.

The theory is that when an offender is caught putting up graffiti, they are not just charged with one count of vandalism.

They can be held accountable for all the other damage for which they are responsible.

This has two main benefits for law enforcement.

One, it sends a signal to the offenders that their vandalism is being tracked.

Two, a city can seek restitution from offenders for all the damage that they have committed, not merely a single incident.

These systems give law enforcement personnel real-time, street-level intelligence that allows them not only to focus on the worst graffiti offenders and their damage, but also to monitor potential gang violence that is associated with the graffiti.

To help address many of these issues, many local jurisdictions have set up graffiti abatement hotlines, where citizens can call in and report vandalism and have it removed.

San Diego’s hotline receives more than 5,000 calls per year, in addition to reporting the graffiti, callers can learn more about prevention.

Above: San Diego, California

One of the complaints about these hotlines is the response time.

There is often a lag time between a property owner calling about the graffiti and its removal.

The length of delay should be a consideration for any jurisdiction planning on operating a hotline.

Local jurisdictions must convince the callers that their complaint of vandalism will be a priority and cleaned off right away.

If the jurisdiction does not have the resources to respond to complaints in a timely manner, the value of the hotline diminishes.

Crews must be able to respond to individual service calls made to the graffiti hotline as well as focus on cleanup near schools, parks, and major intersections and transit routes to have the biggest impact.

Some cities offer a reward for information leading to the arrest and prosecution of suspects for tagging or graffiti related vandalism.

The amount of the reward is based on the information provided, and the action taken.

When police obtain search warrants in connection with a vandalism investigation, they are often seeking judicial approval to look for items such as:

  • cans of spray paint and nozzles from other kinds of aerosol sprays
  • etching tools, or other sharp or pointed objects, which could be used to etch or scratch glass and other hard surfaces
  • permanent marking pens, markers, or paint sticks
  • evidence of membership or affiliation with any gang or tagging crew
  • paraphernalia including any reference to “(tagger’s name)”
  • any drawings, writing, objects, or graffiti depicting taggers’ names, initials, logos, monikers, slogans, or any mention of tagging crew membership
  • any newspaper clippings relating to graffiti crime

I am all for the notion of free expression.

I cannot say I favour the notion of youth gangs, but I do ponder why they exist.

Poverty rates, crime rates and accessibility to weapons are factors.

The causes of street fighting are varied.

Originally, street fighting was a way of defending oneself.

In the Stone Age, fights were mostly aimed for survival purposes – protected territory, secured resources and protected families.

Humans fight to achieve status and belonging.

They do so because, in evolutionary terms, these are the surest routes to survival and increased reproduction.

As humans evolve, new conflicts arise in order to gratify more sophisticated wants.

The purposes of street fighting shifted to solve interpersonal conflicts.

These conflicts could be stratification, misunderstanding, hate speech or even retaliation.

For instance, in areas that are not under policy surveillance and criminally dominated, violence is believed to be the substantiation of superior reputation and pride. 

In other words, people take part in street fights to obtain dominance because of social status given to the ruler.

For another instance, men showed off their value in the sense that opponents’ self-esteem are on the verge of being destroyed from their insults, humiliation and vilification to which violence is the go-to resort.

Additionally, some fights are driven by alcohol.

Alcohol itself does not directly lead to violence, but it acts as a catalyst, allowing cheers from the crowds or provocation from opponents to ignite the fight between fighters.

Since the consumption of alcohol negatively impacts the brain function, drunk people fail to assess the situation which often results in overreacting and unpredictable fights.

Graffiti as advertising is merely capitalism taking advantage of the voice of dissent.

A Che Guevara T-shirt sold at a H & M does not a revolutionary make nor mean that a capitalist organization supports the notion of revolution demanding accountability from it.

I find it both amusing and disconcerting that marketers succeed at attracting the youth market by suggesting they rebel against society by adopting symbols of revolution so they can become more socially acceptable by their social group.

I support political graffiti if it truly is the sole method of dissent remaining against a regime that violates the rights of its citizenry.

That being said, if the political opinions expressed support the notion of violating the dignity of others I approve of the elimination of the graffiti but defend the right of expression by the artist despite how truly objectionable his expression might be.

People need expression even if I don’t like what they are saying.

Above: Graffiti, Ystad, Sweden

I do think graffiti should be limited to stationary objects.

I would object strongly to anyone defacing my car, especially if it is a message I do not wish to share with everyone who might see my car.

It is one thing limiting a message to one stationary place.

It is quite another making me the unwilling medium of a message I might not advocate.

Building owners can afford to pay to erase unwanted graffiti from the side of a building easier than a working class tenant in his car can afford.

If the graffiti does possess a message that I personally like, on the building of someone who can easily afford the graffiti’s removal, then I will only smile and walk on by.

Not my circus, not my monkeys.

I am no graffitist, for I lack both the courage and the artistry to express myself in this manner, but if someone creates in desperation then perhaps the need for dissent must be articulated in whatever form possible.

Above: An adaption of Eugène Delacroix’ Liberty Leading the People with an inscription “REVOLUTION HAVE STARTED HERE… AND WILL CONTINUE UNTIL…“, Bethlehem, Israel

There are very few individuals who have developed beyond the materialism that drives the planet.

Those who were supposed to pass on the torch of experience and insights to a new generation cannot be found in abundance.

As the young look at the society around them, materialistic, decadent, bourgeois in its values, bankrupt and violent, is it any wonder that they feel the need to express this dissatisfaction with their disillusionment?

Today’s generation is desperately trying to make some sense of their lives and out of the world.

Many of them are products of the middle class.

Some have rejected their materialistic backgrounds, the goal of a well-paid job, the suburban home, the latest model of automobile, club membership, first class travel, status and security, and everything that means “success“.

This is a time of tranquilizers, an age of alcohol, marriages endured, devastating divorces, high blood pressure, high pressure jobs, ulcers, frustration and disappointment in the so-called “good life“.

They see the incredible idiocy of leadership – those who were once treated with reverence and respect seem now worthy only of contempt.

Negativism now extends to all institutions, from the police to the courts to the very System itself.

We live in a world of mass media, of social media, which is as hypocritical as the society’s innate hypocrisy it exposes.

Democracy is viewed as nihilistic, dissent considered kin to bombing and murder.

The search for freedom has no compass, no road, no destination.

We are inundated with a rage of information and facts and yet remain woefully ignorant.

It is bedlam, a world-spinning frenzy.

We desperately seek a way of life that has some meaning or sense.

A way of life that means a certain degree of order, where things have some relationship and can be pieced together into a system that provides some clues as to what Life is about.

We set up religions, invent philosophies, create systems, formulate ideologies, yet never realizing that all values and factors are relative, fluid and ever-changing, like the patterns perceived in a turning kaleidoscope.

Today everything is complex and complicated to the point of incomprehension.

What sense does it make to build rockets to Mars while other men wait on welfare lines, starve in Africa, die needlessly in battle for the protection of other men’s property in the name of nationalism and honour?

We reach for the sublime and drown in the muck of madness.

Graffiti is the scream of madness, an expression of humanity almost silenced by an inhumane world.

Graffiti swears and laughs at the world, a world where the profound needs profanity to question it, a world hungry for laughter and love.

This is why I feel graffiti merits respect.

This is why I advocate graffiti as an art form, for art should speak to us about who we are and who we could be.

Above: Bunker near Berlin Anhalter Bahnhof – Those who build bunkers, throw bombs.

I deeply disapprove of graffiti that seeks to deny our darker nature, that paints the villains of that dark past as models worth emulating, that suggests the horrors of historically documented holocausts never happened, that monsters of hate should be made heroes of change.

Erase these scars from our psyche, please.

Above: Execution of Robert Blum by Austrian troops, 9 November 1848

(Robert Blum (1807 – 1848) was a German democratic politician, publicist, poet, publisher, revolutionist and member of the National Assembly of 1848.

In his fight for a strong, unified Germany he opposed ethnocentrism (to apply one’s own culture or ethnicity as a frame of reference to judge other cultures, practices, behaviours, beliefs and people, instead of using the standards of the particular culture involved). 

It was his strong belief that no one people should rule over another.

As such he was an opponent of the Prussian occupation of Poland and was in contact with the revolutionists there.

Blum was a critic of antisemitism, supported German Catholicism, and agitated for the equality of the sexes.

Although claiming immunity as a member of the National Assembly, he was arrested during a stay at the hotel “Stadt London” in Vienna and executed for his role in the Revolutions of 1848 in the German states.)

Even as we acknowledge that silence is seen by the powerful as assent, we cannot deny the world as it was nor can we hope for change by refusing to accept the world unless it is what we would like it to be.

Accepting the world as it is does not in any sense weaken our desire to change it into what we believe it should be, but it is necessary to begin where the world is if we are going to change it into what it could be.

And this is where graffiti fails.

For change will be resisted if it is not change from within.

Graffiti has always been an exposure to the new, to the radical, to the extreme.

Above: Graffiti, Pestszentlőrinc, Budapest, Hungary

Dostoyevski said that taking a new step is what people fear most.

Taking a new step, seeing the world in a new way, is why graffiti is viewed by many as something to be feared, to be abhorred, to be rejected.

Any revolutionary change must be preceded by a passive, affirmative, non-challenging attitude toward change among the mass of the people.

They must feel so frustrated, so defeated, so lost, so futureless in the prevailing system that they are willing to let go of the past and change the future.

Above: Russian writer Fyodor Dostoyevsky (1821 – 1881)

This is why I do not foresee revolution in America’s future soon nor in Turkey’s immediate future regardless of the outcome of next April’s elections.

Above: Flag of the United Staets of America

Above: Flag of Turkey

For all of its flaws people will protect a system until the day that everyone has had enough.

Graffiti is the expression of the few who have already reached that point.

Youth is impatient with the preliminaries that are essential to purposeful action.

Effective organization is thwarted by the desire for instant and dramatic change – the demand for revelation rather than revolution.

The young desire confrontation for confrontation’s sake.

Graffiti is the expression of that desire.

To build a powerful organization takes time.

It is tedious, but change takes time.

What is the alternative to working inside the System?

Rhetoric, screaming, violence, militant mouthing-off.

Spouting quotes from Mao, Castro and Che Guevara is as germane to our highly technological, computerized, cybernetic, nuclear-powered, mass media, social media society as a stagecoach on a jet runaway at JFK Airport.

Revolution must be preceded by reformation, because a political revolution cannot survive without the supporting base of a popular reformation.

Above: Martin Luther (1483 – 1546) posting his 95 Theses on the door of Wittenberg’s All Saints’ Church, 31 October 1517

People don’t like to step abruptly out of the security of familiar experience.

This is why graffiti isn’t universally embraced by everyone.

People need a bridge to cross from their own experience to a new one.

Graffiti is not that bridge, but rather it is a challenge to the common experience.

Graffiti attempts to shake up the prevailing patterns, aims to agitate, desires disenchantment and discontent with current values of the status quo, wants to produce a passion for change in a passive unchallenging climate.

John Adams wrote:

The American Revolution was effected before the war commenced.

The revolution was in the hearts and minds of the people.

This radical change in the principles, opinions, sentiments and affections of the people was the real revolution.

Effective graffiti captures passion and imagination.

Above: John Adams (1735 – 1826) (US President: 1797 – 1801)

A revolution without a prior reformation will either collapse or become a totalitarian tyranny.

A reformation means that masses of people have reached the point of disillusionment with past ways and values.

They don’t know what will work but they do know that the prevailing system doesn’t.

They won’t act for change but won’t strongly oppose those who do.

From time to time the enemy has been at our gates, but the enemy within has always been the hidden and malignant inertia of the common citizen, rendered invisible by apathy, anonymity and depersonalization.

There is no darker or devastating destiny than the death of a man’s faith in himself and in his power to direct the future.

Graffiti that advocates violence or provokes violent reactions because of its offensive nature is not graffiti worth preserving.

Graffiti that elicits laughter, demonstrates beauty, illuminates love, promises a positive vision of the future, and offers the common man a chance to create discussion deserves protection, admiration and respect.

This is what the world desperately needs:

Laughter, beauty, love, hope and communication.

Above: Graffito, Sliema, Italy

Miami is a city worth visiting, for it is a city of laughter, beauty, love and hope.

The Museum of Graffiti in Miami attempts to communicate these virtues.

Come to Miami.

Visit the Museum.

Enjoy yourself.

Discover how life is both a blessing and a lesson.

Sources: Wikipedia / Wikivoyage / Google / Saul D. Alinsky, Rules for Radicals / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Fyodor Dostoyevsky, Notes from Underground / Fyodor Dostoyevsky, The Idiot / Noel Gallagher (Oasis), “Wonderwall” / Connie Ogle, “The Museum of Graffiti in Miami“, Miami Herald, 25 February 2022 / Marcel Proust, In Search of Lost Time / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Esther Vilar, The Manipulated Man

Above: Strteet art, New York City, New York, USA

Today is gonna be the day that they’re gonna throw it back to you
And by now, you should’ve somehow realised what you got to do
I don’t believe that anybody feels the way I do about you now

Backbeat, the word is on the street that the fire in your heart is out
I’m sure you’ve heard it all before, but you never really had a doubt
I don’t believe that anybody feels the way I do about you now

And all the roads we have to walk are winding
And all the lights that lead us there are blinding
There are many things that I would like to say to you, but I don’t know how

Because maybe
You’re gonna be the one that saves me
And after all
You’re my wonderwall

Today was gonna be the day, but they’ll never throw it back to you
By now, you should’ve somehow realised what you’re not to do
I don’t believe that anybody feels the way I do about you now

And all the roads that lead you there were winding
And all the lights that light the way are blinding
There are many things that I would like to say to you, but I don’t know how

I said maybe
You’re gonna be the one that saves me
And after all

You’re my wonderwall

I said maybe (I said maybe)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me
And after all
You’re my wonderwall

I said maybe (I said maybe)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me (saves me)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me (saves me)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me (saves me)

Canada Slim: Out of Nowhere

Canada Slim and the Pickwickian Road to Mürren – Part One (The departure)

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 20 November 2022

I have a hobby.

I find myself drawn to investigating and visiting places with any sort of a literary connection.

Tell me someone wrote something somewhere and I begin to plan a visit there.

I find myself drawn of late to Charles Dickens’ The Pickwick Papers and damned if I am not already envisioning a journey to England to retrace the tale of the irrepressible Samuel Pickwick and his fellow Pickwickians as they travelled around the English countryside getting into all kinds of scrapes and adventures.

“The first ray of light which illumines the gloom and converts into a dazzling brilliancy that obscurity in which the earlier history of the public career of the immortal Pickwick would appear to be involved is derived from the perusal of the following entry in the Transactions of the Pickwick Club, which the editor of these papers feels the highest pleasure in laying before his readers, as a proof of the careful attention, indefatigable assiduity and nice discrimination with which his search among the multifarious documents confided to him has been conducted.

London, England, 12 May 1827

Joseph Smiggers, Esquire, Perpetual Vice-President – Member Pickwick Club (PVPMPC) presiding.

The following resolutions unanimously agreed to:

This Association cannot but entertain a lively sense of the inestimable benefits which must invariably result from carrying the speculations of that learned man (Pickwick) into a wider field, from extending his travels, and consequently enlarging his sphere of observation, to the advancement of knowledge and the diffusion of learning.

That Samuel Pickwick, Tracy Tupman, Augustus Snodgrass and Nathaniel Winkle are hereby nominated and appointed members of the Corresponding Society of the Pickwick Club and that they be requested to forward, from time to time, authenticated accounts of their journeys and investigations, of their observations of character and manners, and of the whole of their adventures, together with all tales and papers to which local scenery or associations may give rise to the Pickwick Club, stationed in London.

That this Association cordially recognizes the principle of every member of the Corresponding Society defraying his own travelling expenses, and that it sees no objection whatever to the members of the said Society pursuing their inquiries for any length of time they please, upon the same terms.”

“In this strain, with an occasional glass of ale, when the coach changed horses, until they reached Rochester Bridge, by which time the notebooks both of Pickwick and Snodgrass were completely filled with selections from his adventures.

Magnificent ruin!“, said Snodgrass, with all the poetic fervour that distinguished him, when they came in sight of the fine old castle.

What a study for an antiquarian!” were the very words which fell from Pickwick’s mouth as he applied his telescope to his eye.

Ah! Fine place, glorious pile, frowning walls, tottering arches, dark nooks, crumbling staircases.“, said the stranger.

Above: Rochester Castle, from across the Medway River, Kent, England

Old cathedral too, earthy smell, pilgrims’ feet worn away the old steps, little Saxon doors, confessionals like money-takers’ boxes at theatres.

Queer customers those monks, Popes and Lord Treasurers and all sorts of old fellows with great red faces and broken noses turning up every day, leather coats and guns.

Tombs, fine place, old legends too, strange stories, capital.“, said the stranger.”

Above: Rochester Cathedral, Kent, England

“We do not find, from a careful perusal of Pickwick’s notes on the four towns Strood, Rochester, Chatham and Brompton, that his impressions of their appearance differ in any material point from those of other travellers who have gone over the same ground.

His general description is easily abridged:

The principal production of these towns appear to be soldiers, sailors, Jews, chalk, shrimps, officers and dockyard men.

The commodities chiefly exposed for sale in the public streets are marine supplies, baked goods, apples, flatfish and oysters.

The streets present a lively and animated appearance, occasioned chiefly by the conviviality of the military.

It is truly delightful to the philanthropic mind to see these gallant men staggering along under the influence of an overflow, both of animal and ardent spirits.

More especially when we remember that the following them about and jesting with them affords a cheap and innocent amusement for the boy population.

Nothing can exceed their good humour.

It was but the day before my arrival that one of them had been most grossly insulted in a pub.

The barmaid had positively refused to draw him any more liquor.

In return for which he had (merely in playfulness) drawn his bayonet and wounded the girl in the shoulder.

And yet this fine fellow was the very first to go down to the pub next morning and express his readiness to overlook the matter and forget what had occurred.

The consumption of tobacco in these towns must be very great and the smell which pervades the streets must be exceedingly delicious to those who are extremely fond of smoking.

A superficial traveller might object to the dirt which is their leading characteristic, but to those who view it as an indication of traffic and commercial prosperity it is truly gratifying.

Above: High Street, Strood, Kent, England

Above: High Street, Rochester, Kent, England

Above: Chatham, Kent, England

Above: Prospect Row, Brompton, Kent, England

Thus we are introduced to Rochester, after an unpleasant confrontation with a coachman in London.

Above: Eastgate House, Rochester, Kent

My mind therefore leaps to the notion of finding in London Goswell Street where Pickwick is said to have resided and the coach stand in St. Martin’s le Grand and the Golden Cross where Pickwick met his travelling companions Tupman, Snodgrass and Winkle and where the quartet were assaulted by the paranoid cabby Sam.

Above: St. Martin’s Le Grand looking south, London, England, 1829

I find myself wondering how far it is to Rochester from London (30 miles/50 km), whether there are walking trails between London and Rochester (10.5 to 11 hours walking distance), and whether any discernible traces of the 19th century of Pickwick can still be seen by the 21st century traveller.

My walking is of two kinds: one, straight on end to a definite goal at a round pace; one, objectless, loitering, and purely vagabond.

In the latter state, no gipsy on Earth is a greater vagabond than myself.

It is so natural to me, and strong with me, that I think I must be the descendant, at no great distance, of some irreclaimable tramp.

So much of my travelling is done on foot, that if I cherished betting propensities, I should probably be found registered in sporting newspapers under some such title as the Elastic Novice, challenging all eleven stone mankind to competition in walking.

My last special feat was turning out of bed at two, after a hard day, pedestrian and otherwise, and walking thirty miles into the country to breakfast.

Charles Dickens, The Uncommercial Traveller

Charles Dickens was a prodigious walker.

Whether on his night walks through London, or tramping through the Kent countryside, Dickens clocked up a huge number of miles on foot.

He is estimated to have walked 12 miles per day.

Dickens maintained this in all kinds of weather.

Dickens understood his passion for walking to be prodigious.

Dickens mostly walked alone.

He did so because walking time was thinking time, or perhaps more accurately dreaming time.

Whether walking purposefully or in vagabond style, as he classifies his walking habits in The Uncommercial Traveller, Dickens proceeded in a reverie, acutely attuned to the significance of his surroundings.

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

G.K. Chesterton, in Charles Dickens: A Critical Study (1906), makes this remarkable judgment of the connection between Dickens’ writing and walking:

Herein is the whole secret of that eerie realism with which Dickens could always vitalize some dark or dull corner of London.

There are details in the Dickens descriptions — a window, or a railing, or the keyhole of a door — which he endows with demoniac life.

The things seem more actual than things really are.

Indeed, that degree of realism does not exist in reality:

It is the unbearable realism of a dream.

And this kind of realism can only be gained by walking dreamily in a place.

It cannot be gained by walking observantly.

It takes some sort of critical genius to understand Dickens’ walking not to be observant in the conventional sense, but an act of dreaming.

He walked not to see things but to get the sense of them.

I am both a town traveller and a country traveller, and am always on the road.”, he writes in The Uncommercial Traveller, his series of essays linked by the idea of walking.

There is the sense of Dickens having always to walk, so that he was travelling in his mind wherever he might be, and being released into the act of walking became a necessary expression of his mind’s direction.

Walk from Higham a couple of miles north to St Mary’s Church, Dickens’ parish church.

Above: Gads Hill Place, Higham, Kent, England – Charles Dickens’ final home (1856 – 1870)

The road gives up at this point.

Proceed across fields, along little-used railways lines and past water-filled gravel pits, past Cliffe and onwards to Cooling.

Cooling is a small strip of a village with the ruins of a privately-owned castle and St. James Church, a favourite Dickens picnic location.

It is an ancient, disused (but handsomely maintained) church with a 13th century font and some 14th century pews.

But its most famous feature is found in the graveyard – 13 gravestones of the children of two families, known now as ‘Pip’s graves’.

In Great Expectations, Pip describes seeing:

… five little stone lozenges, each about a foot and a half long, which were arranged in a neat row beside their grave, and were sacred to the memory of five little brothers of mine — who gave up trying to get a living, exceedingly early in that universal struggle …

Famously Dickens reduced the number from thirteen to five, so as not to stretch the credibility of his readers too far.

But the 13 gravestones are there in a row, even if they do derive from two families rather than one.

The names are no longer legible, but they are of the Baker and Comport families, none of whom lived beyond the age of 17 months, having died between 1771 and 1779.

They may all have died of malaria (ague), no great surprise in a marshland area.

One can readily imagine the scene in the greys of winter with a sharp wind coming in off the North Sea to feel that overpowering sense of time, place and consequence – “the unbearable realism of a dream” – that is the cornerstone of Dickens’ art.

Above: The 13 children’s gravestones at St James Church, Cooling, Kent, England – inspiration for the opening scene of Great Expectations

To be at St James Church is to feel that you are on the edge of Nowhere.

Though there were signs of human habitation, there are no humans.

No one but yourself.

The church pays witness to lives lived on the margin, people whose lives came and went unnoticed.

It is a place of minimal expectations.

Yet those lives went on, and there is a powerful sense of a life on the margins being a life for all that, something which imbues the UK’s many used and disused (or redundant) churches, which makes their continued preservation so important.

It is not the chancels, naves and pews that matter, though they have their value.

It is the lives past that revolved around such buildings that are important.

They make things more actual than things really are.

They turn plain reality into reverie and connect our lives to stories – such as Pip’s.

Something of this Charles Dickens saw in Cooling, as he walked by, paused awhile, and then walked on.

Above: St. James Church, Cooling, Kent, England

Wikipedia informs me that Rochester is at the lowest bridging point of the River Medway, that Rochester was for many years a favourite of Charles Dickens (who owned nearby Gads Hill Place) basing his novels (The Pickwick Papers, Great Expectations, The Mystery of Edwin Drood) here, that the Diocese of Rochester is the second oldest in England, that King’s School is the second oldest continuously running school in the world, and that Rochester Castle has one of the best preserved keeps to be found in either England or France.

Above: Medway River, Rochester Bridge, Rochester, Kent, England

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Rochester

Above: King’s School, Rochester, Kent, England

Above: Rochester Castle, Rochester, Kent, England

Rochester was sacked at least twice and besieged on another occasion.

Rochester has produced two martyrs:

  • John Fisher (1469 – 1535), executed by King Henry VIII for refusing to sanction divorce from Queen Catherine of Aragon
  • Nicholas Ridley (1500 – 1555), executed by Queen Mary for being Protestant

Above: John Fisher

Above: King Henry VIII of England (1491 – 1547)

Above: Catherine of Aragon (1485 – 1536)

Above: Nicholas Ridley

Above: Queen Mary of England (1516 – 1588)

Rochester has for centuries been of great strategic importance through its position near the confluence of the Thames and the Medway.

During the First World War (1914 – 1918) the Short Brothers’ aircraft manufacturing company developed the first plane to launch a torpedo, the Short Admirality Type 184, at its seaplane factory on the River Medway not far from Rochester Castle.

In the intervening period between the World Wars, Short Brothers established a worldwide reputation as a constructor of flying boats.

During the Second World War (1939 – 1945), Short Brothers also designed and manufactured the first four-engined bomber, the Stirling.

Above: Statue of the Short Brothers – Oswald (1883 – 1969), Horace (1872 – 1917) and Eustace (1875-1932), Musswell Manor, Isle of Shippey, England

Britain’s decline in naval power and shipbuilding competitiveness led to the government decommissioning the nearby Royal Navy Shipyard at Chatham in 1984, which led to the subsequent demise of much local maritime industry.

Rochester and its neighbouring communities were hit hard by this and have experienced a painful adjustment to a post-industrial economy, with much social deprivation and unemployment resulting.

On the closure of Chatham Dockyard the area experienced an unprecedented surge in unemployment.

Above: Chatham Dockyard, 1830

Since 1980 the city has seen the revival of the historic Rochester Jack-in-the-Green May Day (1 May) dancing chimney sweeps tradition, which had died out in the early 1900s.

Above: Sweeps Dance, Rochester, Kent, 2006

Though not unique to Rochester (similar sweeps’ gatherings were held across southern England, notably in Bristol, Deptford, Whitstable and Hastings), its revival was directly inspired by Dickens’ description of the celebration in Sketches by Boz.

The festival has since grown from a small gathering of local Morris dance sides to one of the largest in the world. 

The festival begins with the “Awakening of Jack-in-the-Green” ceremony and continues in Rochester High Street over the May Bank Holiday weekend.

Above: Jack in the Green, Kingston, England

Jack in the Green, also known as Jack o’ the Green, is an English folk custom associated with the celebration of May Day (1 May).

It involves a pyramidal or conical wicker or wooden framework that is decorated with foliage being worn by a person as part of a procession, often accompanied by musicians.

The Jack in the Green tradition developed in England during the 18th century.

It emerged from an older May Day tradition — first recorded in the 17th century — in which milkmaids carried milk pails that had been decorated with flowers and other objects as part of a procession.

Increasingly, the decorated milk pails were replaced with decorated pyramids of objects worn on the head.

By the latter half of the 18th century the tradition had been adopted by other professional groups, such as bunters and chimney sweeps.

The earliest known account of a Jack in the Green came from a description of a London May Day procession in 1770.

By the 19th century, the Jack in the Green tradition was largely associated with chimney sweeps.

The tradition died out in the early 20th century.

Later that century, various revivalist groups emerged, continuing the practice of Jack in the Green May Day processions in various parts of England.

The Jack in the Green has also been incorporated into various modern Pagan parades and activities.

The Jack in the Green tradition has attracted the interest of folklorists and historians since the early 20th century.

 

Above: Jack in the Green procession, Hastings, England

There are numerous other festivals in Rochester apart from the Sweeps Festival.

The association with Dickens is the theme for Rochester’s two Dickens Festivals held annually in June and December. 

Above: Dickens Festival, Rochester, Kent, England

The Medway Fuse Festival usually arranges performances in Rochester.

Above: Medway Fuse Festival, Rochester, Kent, England

The latest festival to take shape is the Rochester Literature Festival, the brainchild of three local writers.

A Huguenot Museum was opened in Rochester on 13 May 2015.

The 1959 Ian Fleming novel Goldfinger describes James Bond driving along the A2 through the Medway towns from Strood to Chatham.

Of interest is the mention of “inevitable traffic jams” on the Strood side of Rochester Bridge, the novel being written some years prior to the construction of the M2 motorway Medway bypass.

Rochester is the setting of the controversial 1965 Peter Watkins TV film The War Game, which depicts the town’s destruction by a nuclear missile.

The 2011 adventure film Ironclad is loosely based upon the 1215 siege of Rochester Castle.

A scene in the 2001 film Last Orders, starring Bob Hoskins and Tom Courtenay, was filmed in Rochester High Street.

As I have only progressed in The Pickwick Papers as far as the end of Chapter 2, I will not burden you, my gentle readers, any further in describing the itinerary of the Pickwickians at this time.

Suffice to say that my reading prompts my explorations and my explorations prompt my reading.

Case in point are my travels with my wife to Mürren, Switzerland in January 2022.

Above: Mürren, Switzerland

Landschlacht to Mürren, Switzerland, Wednesday 6 January 2022

The travel discussions between the wife and I are far less formal than those of the Pickwick Club.

I mention places I would like to visit and eventually we visit them.

We had planned to visit Piz Gloria the previous May, but I stumbled and fell down in a St. Gallen street two weeks prior to our planned visit shattering my left wrist and right elbow.

The trip was postponed.

Finally we set off this day from our apartment building in Landschlacht.

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Charles Dickens, Preface to The Pickwick Papers

“The author’s object in this work was to place before the reader a constant succession of characters and incidents, to paint them in as vivid colours as he could command and to render them at the same time lifelike and amusing.

It is obvious that in a work published with a view to such considerations, no artfully interwoven or ingeniously complicated plot can with reason be expected.

The author ventures a hope that he has successfully surmounted the difficulties of his undertaking.

If it be objected that The Pickwick Papers are a mere series of adventures in which the scenes are ever changing and the characters come and go like the men and women we encounter in the real world, he can only content himself with reflection that they claim to be nothing else.

The same objections have been made to the works of some of the greatest novelists in the English language.

The following pages have been written from time to time almost as the periodical occasion arose.

If any of the author’s imperfect descriptions, while they afford amusement in the perusal, should induce one reader to think better of his fellow men and to look upon the brighter and more kindly side of human nature, he would indeed be proud and happy to have led to such a result.

Literature is not behind the ages but rather holds its place and strives to do its duty.”

Imaginative literature, which my blogs are and are not, primarily pleases rather than teaches.

I seek to do both in my writing.

I try to communicate experiences – ones that the reader can have, can share.

We experience things through the exercise of our senses and imagination.

We must act in such a way when reading a story that we let it act upon us.

We must allow it to move us.

We must let it do whatever it wants to do on us.

We must make ourselves open to it.

This is what I value in walking versus any other mode of travel – an awareness of the experience in all its sensory power.

Oh, how I wish that the journey I am about to describe had taken place on foot rather than in an automobile, but time and money tend to dictate most people’s itineraries!

The journey I am about to describe will take longer to show than the actual journey itself took, much like the TV series M.A.S.H. (1972 – 1983) lasted longer than the Korean War (1950 – 1953) it portrayed.

Landschlacht is a bedroom community and most residents of this hamlet of 1,452 souls work in Kreuzlingen, 15 kilometres to the west across from Konstanz, Germany.

Above: Landschlacht / Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Kreuzlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

This was not the case for my wife and during the time before I took up my position as a teacher in Türkiye neither was this the case for me.

Above: Flag of Turkey

My wife is a doctor gainfully and (mostly) happily employed at the nearby Kantonspital (cantonal hospital) in the hamlet of Münsterlingen to the west.

During the decade I was there, I mostly worked as a teacher in the towns of Weinfelden, Romanshorn and Herisau, and in the cities of Konstanz, Kreuzlingen and St. Gallen.

Above: Rathausstrasse, Weinfelden, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Romanshorn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Herisau, Canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Switzerland

Above: St. Gallen, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Landschlacht lies on the shore of the Bodensee (Lake Constance) on the main road between Schaffhausen and Rorschach.

Above: Outline of the Bodensee (Lake Constance), shared between Switzerland, Germany and Austria

Above: Schaffhausen, Canton Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Above: Rorschach, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Landschlacht is a final bus stop for the Konstanz bus lines and a train stop on the Kreuzlingen – Romanshorn line.

Above: Logo of Konstanz buslines

Above: Landschlacht Bahnhof, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The first people settled on the shores of the Bodensee as early as the Neolithic Age, as evidenced by many finds. 

The settlement was first mentioned in 817 as Lanchasalachi

Above: Former tithe house, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Landschlacht was an episcopal fief of Konstanz. 

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Konstanz

In the High Middle Ages, the Bailiwick belonged to the barons of Güttingen and later to other families. 

Above: Güttingen Castle, Güttingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 1413, half of the court rule was sold to Hans Dürrenmüller and ten co-principles of Landschlacht, the other half went to the Petershausen Monastery in 1452 and to the Münsterlingen Monasters in 1486. 

Above: The Benedictine Abbey of Petershausen, Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany, 1627

In 1621, the eleven owner families sold their shares to the Münsterlingen Monastery, where they remained until 1798.

Above: Münsterlingen Monastery, Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Landschlacht always shared the fate of the Parish of Altnau (next town to the east). 

Above: Oberdorf (upper town), Altnau, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The St. Leonhard Chapel, built before 1000, is decorated with Gothic frescoes, the sole site in Landschlacht worth visiting.

Along with the Sylvester Chapel in the Goldbach district of Überlingen, the St. Leonhard Chapel is one of the oldest Romanesque chapels in the Lake Constance area. 

The oldest parts were created before the year 1000 and it has been frescoed since the 11th century.

The Passion cycle (2nd half of the 15th century) and the Leonhard cycle (dated 1432) are particularly well preserved.

The western half of the chapel with the entrance is Romanesque and built of coarse field stones. 

The other half of the chapel is Gothic and was added at the end of the 14th century. 

The chapel is equipped with Gothic tracery windows.

Above: St. Leonhard Chapel, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Interior of St. Leonhard Chapel, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 1855, the three-field system of farming still existed with livestock breeding, fruit growing and viticulture being practiced. 

Above: The three-field system used in medieval agriculture

In 1880, a cheese dairy was built. 

From 1898 the vines were destroyed because of phylloxera infestation (plant lice). 

Above: Unfriendly neighbourhood plant lice

In the 19th and 20th centuries, work was offered by industry and the cantonal hospitals (General and Psychiatric) that have existed since 1840. 

Above: Münsterlingen Monastery, now the cantonal hospital building

From 1961 Landschlacht experienced its first construction boom, a boom that has mostly fizzled.

A town that once had a general store and a post office no longer does.

Of the 1,452 inhabitants of the village of Landschlacht in 2018, 452 or 31.1% were foreign citizens, though I suspect I was its sole Canadian. 

498 (34.3%) were Evangelical Reformed and 456 (31.4%) Roman Catholic.

The latter is the religion of my spouse while I remain unaffiliated to any faith.

Perhaps to both religion’s and my benefit?

Landschlacht being a part of the Municipality of Münsterlingen requires a few words must be said regarding Münsterlingen.

Above: Coat of arms of Münsterlingen

The Municipality has a total of 3,512 inhabitants and is comprised of the communities of Landschlacht, Münsterlingen and Scherzingen.

Above: Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The village centre is on the southern shore of the Bodensee, with the grounds of the Münsterlingen Monastery adjoining to the east.

Above: Münsterlingen Monastery, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

According to legend, the monastery in Münsterlingen was founded around 986 by a sister of Abbot Gregor von Einsiedeln and dedicated to St. Walburga. 

Above: Einsiedeln Monastery, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

Above: Statue of St. Walburga (710 – 779), Contern, Canton Luxembourg, Luxembourg

In 1125, Münsterlingen was first mentioned in a document as Munsterlin

Pope Innocent IV confirmed the Augustinian Rule in 1254.

Above: Pope Innocent IV (né Sinibaldo de Fieschi) (1195 – 1254)

In 1288, the convent was able to buy its way out of the Bailiwick of the Lords of Klingen. 

It extended immunity for the monastic district and began establishing judicial rule over their courts. 

Above: Altenklingen Castle, Wigoltingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 1460, Münsterlingen came under the Kastvogtei of the seven federal towns that governed Thurgau Canton and was henceforth subject to their jurisdiction. 

Above: Structure of the Swiss Confederation in the 18th century

In 1524, the Protestant Reformation took hold. 

Above: German Protestant reformer Martin Luther (1483 – 1546)

In 1549, monastic life was restored by Benedictine nuns from Engelberg Abbey. 

Above: Engelberg Monastery, Canton Obwalden, Switzerland

1618 saw the monastery built as patronage of a reformed church in Scherzingen. 

Above: Reformed Church, Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

By 1716 the monastery had a new convent building and a new monastery church built further inland. 

From 1486 to 1621 Münsterlingen acquired jurisdiction over Landschlacht. 

In 1509, Münsterlingen was contractually part of Thurgau Canton. 

Above: Coat of arms of Canton Thurgau

The monastery retained jurisdiction over Münsterlingen, Landschlacht, Uttwil, Schönenbaumgarten and Belzstadel until 1798.

Above: Uttwil, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Schönenbaumgarten, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Langrickenbach, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

With the secularization of their property on the German side of the Bodensee and a number of bad harvests from 1805 to 1817, the monastery’s economy ran into difficulties.

In 1839, the Canton of Thurgau took over a wing of the building and opened the cantonal hospital in it in 1840. 

In 1848, Thurgau dissolved the monastery. 

In 1849, Doctor Ludwig Binswanger was entrusted with the treatment of the mentally ill. 

Above: Ludwig Binswanger Sr. (1820 – 1880)

In 1894, this department received its own building by the Lake. 

In 1972, after long disputes, the new building of the Münsterlingen Cantonal Hospital, which cost around 70 million Swiss francs, was ready for occupancy. 

On 1 January 1994, the political community of Münsterlingen was formed as part of the Thurgau community reorganization. 

It consists of the two formerly independent local communities of Landschlacht and Scherzingen. 

The new Municipality took its name and coat of arms from the old monastery complex in Münsterlingen.

In 1999, the cantonal hospital and the psychiatric clinic in Münsterlingen were integrated into Spital Thurgau AG. 

In 2005, this provides the Municipality 97% of its jobs.

The clinic and hospital alone employ 877 people. 

Above: Spital Thurgau, Münsterlingen

In the past, wine was cultivated on the surrounding slopes, but today it is mainly farming and pastoralism. 

Founded in 1886, the Rutishauser Winery, which merged with the Fenaco subsidiary DiVino to form Rutishauser-DiVino AG in 2021, achieved sales of almost 40 million francs in 2010 and bottled around three million bottles of wine. 

Above: Rutishauser Winery, Scherzingen, Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 2016, Münsterlingen offered work to 2,290 people (converted to full-time positions). 

Of these, 1.2% worked in agriculture and forestry, 1.8% in industry, commerce and construction, and 97.0% in the service sector.  

The most important employers as aforementioned are the cantonal hospital and the psychiatric clinic.

Above: Logo for Thurgau Wirtschaft und Arbeit (Business and Labour)

(Which kind of lends credibility to the joke that one does not need to be crazy to live here but it really helps if you are.)

In terms of rail transport, Münsterlingen has three stations on the Selllinie (lake line): Münsterlingen-Scherzingen, Münsterlingen Spital and Landschlacht. 

As aforementioned, a bus line connects Münsterlingen to the city bus networks of the nearby cities of Kreuzlingen and Konstanz.

Above: Münsterlingen-Scherzingen Bahnhof, Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Münsterlingen-Spital Bahnhof, Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Münsterlingen Abbey (taken over by the Canton of Thurgau) has a baroque church. 

Above: St. Remigus Church, Münsterlingen Abbey, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

With Hagnau on the other side of the Lake, there is a custom to carry the bust of St. John the Baptist across the frozen lake to the respective partner community during the Seegfrörne (the freezing over).

Above: Bust of St. John the Baptist, Interior of St. Remigus Church, Münsterlingen Abbey, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Since 1963, the last time the Bodensee froze over, the wooden head has remained in the former monastery church of St. Remigius of Münsterlingen.

Above: Record of the years when the Bodensee froze over, Lochau-Hörbranz, Vorarlberg, Austria

Not shown but historically recorded are the years 875, 895, 1074, 1076, 1108, 1217, 1227, 1277, 1323, 1325, 1378, 1379, 1383, 1409, 1431, 1435, 1460, 1465, 1470, 1479, 1512, 1553, 1560, 1564, 1565, 1571, 1573, 1684, 1695 and 1788.

Above: Commemoration of the first crossing, ice procession in 1963 and togetherness at the lake on a boulder in Hagnau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Ice procession of 1830 from Münsterlingen in Switzerland to Hagnau in Germany across the frozen Bodensee (Lake Constance)

Above: Hagnau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Interior of St. John the Baptist Church, Hagnau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

The Kreuzlingen – Romanshorn railway line runs between the village and the Lake. 

Below the railway line in a park area by the Lake are the buildings of the privatized Psychiatric Clinic founded in 1839, formerly the Cantonal Psychiatric Hospital, and the Mansio Foundation. 

Above the tracks, the monastery is the Spital Thurgau. 

Münsterlingen Seeseite” (lakeside) is a euphemism in the local colloquial language for the psychiatric clinic.

The psychiatric institution in Münsterlingen has come under public criticism since 2013 because children from the Catholic children’s home in Fischingen were alleged to have been exposed to illegitimate drug trials there in the early 1970s.

Above: Psychiatrische Klinik Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The Municipality has known more than its fair share of personalities.

No pun intended on the Psychiatric Clinic.

The Municipality has known:

  • Ludwig Binswanger Sr. and Otto Binswanger (psychiatrists)

Otto, the son of Ludwig Binswanger Sr. established an international reputation as a clinician. 

The development of an independent child and adolescent psychiatry goes back to his suggestion. 

In Jena (Switzerland) he worked in an advisory capacity at the sanatorium for children and young people on Sophienhöhe Street. 

In addition to his extensive work, he worked in a field hospital during WW1 as an expert and advisor to the Thuringian army corps. 

Among his more than 100 publications are his probably most important works on epilepsy, neurasthenia and psychiatry as well as his work on hysteria. 

Death overtook him on 15 July 1929 while playing cards.

Above: Otto Binswanger (1852 – 1929)

Above: The card hand purportedly held by US gunfighter Wild Bill Hickok (1837 – 1876) at the time of his death: black aces and eights

Here is a germ of a story idea that reminds me of The Seventh Seal, a 1957 Swedish historical fantasy film written and directed by Ingmar Bergman.

Set in Sweden during the Black Death, it tells of the journey of a medieval knight (Max von Sydow) and a game of chess he plays with the personification of Death (Bengt Ekerot), who has come to take his life.

Bergman developed the film from his own play Wood Painting.

The title refers to a passage from the Book of Revelation, used both at the very start of the film, and again towards the end, beginning with the words:

And when the Lamb had opened the seventh seal, there was silence in Heaven about the space of half an hour“.

Here, the motif of silence refers to the “silence of God“, a major theme of the film.

Above: Death (Bengt Ekerot:1920 – 1971) and Antonius Block (Max von Sydow:1929 – 2020) choose sides for the chess game

I am also reminded of Kenny Roger’s song The Gambler:

The song tells the story of a late-night meeting on a train “bound for nowhere” between the narrator and a man known only as “the gambler“.

The gambler tells the narrator that he can tell he is down on his luck (“out of aces“) by the look in his eyes, and offers him advice in exchange for his last swallow of whisky.

After the gambler takes the drink (and bums a cigarette), he gives the following advice:

You’ve got to know when to hold ’em, know when to fold ’em,

Know when to walk away, know when to run.


You never count your money when you’re sittin’ at the table,

There’ll be time enough for countin’ when the dealin’s done.

The gambler then mentions that the “secret to survivin’ is knowing what to throw away and knowing what to keep” and that “the best you can hope for is to die in your sleep“.

Shortly thereafter, the gambler puts out his cigarette and dies in his sleep;

Somewhere in the darkness, the gambler, he broke even.”

The narrator finds in his final words “an ace that he could keep“.

  • Julia Onken (psychologist / psychotherapist)

Julia Onken first did an apprenticeship as a stationer and then worked as a buyer in a stationery store. 

When her second daughter started kindergarten, she began studying at the Academy for Applied Psychology in Zürich and continued her education in person-centered client-centred psychotherapy and analytical couples therapy. 

After graduation, she worked in prison and probation, as a lecturer in adult education and opened her own psychotherapeutic practice. 

After her divorce she founded the Frauen Seminar Bodensee (FSB) in 1987. 

In 1998 she founded the association Education Fund for Women, which she has been President ever since. 

She has been a writer since 1987.

Her non-fiction books and guidebooks are also available in numerous translations. 

Her daughter Maya Onken is also a writer.

Some titles from the pen of Julia Onken:

  • Fire Sign Woman: A Report on Menopause
  • Borrowed Luck: An Account of Everyday Love
  • Father Men: An Account of the Father-Daughter Relationship and Its Impact on Partnership
  • Mirror Images: Types of men – How women see through them and recognize themselves in the process
  • The Cherries in the Neighbor’s Garden: The causes of cheating and the conditions for staying at home
  • Mistress in Her Own House: Why women lose their self-confidence and how to regain it
  • If You Really Love Me: The most common relationship pitfalls and how to avoid them 
  • Indian Summer. An Account of the Postmenopausal Period
  • Actually Everything Went Wrong: My Way to Happiness 
  • Help, I’m an Emancipated Mother: A Mother and Daughter Argument 
  • On the Day of the White Chrysanthemums: An Account of Love and Jealousy
  • Love Ping Pong: The Relationship Game between Man and Woman (with Mathias Jung)
  • Raven Daughters: Why I still love my mother
  • With the Heart of the Lioness: Why women lose their self-confidence and how to regain it 

Above: Julia Onken

Here again, a number of thoughts, albeit unpopular ones, spring to mind:

I have a suspicion that there are many women who get into psychiatry who are more interested in aiding and understanding themselves rather than a burning zeal to help or understand others, especially the opposite gender.

Why do we use pheromones as an excuse to justify some women’s behaviour?

It seems to me that far too often there are women who lack accountability for their actions and use the excuse of biology and gender to excuse the inexcusable acts that some do.

I am not privy to the details of her failed marriage.

Perhaps her ex was unworthy of her.

But at the same time I am reminded that in over 70% of failed marriages it is the woman who initiates the divorce.

Can all these divorces be solely the fault of men?

  • Peter Stamm and Tabea Steiner (writers)

Peter Stamm was born the son of an accountant and grew up with three siblings in Weinfelden in the Canton of Thurgau. 

Above: Peter Stamm Weg, Weinfelden, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

According to his own statements, he was underchallenged at school and therefore spent a lot of time in his fantasy world from an early age. 

Stamm completed a commercial apprenticeship and worked at times as an accountant. 

Stamm’s first three novels never found a publisher. 

Above: Peter Stamm

Agnes, the fourth novel he began writing when he was 29, was not published until six years later. 

After Stamm studied English at the University of Zürich for six months in 1987 and then lived in New York City for six months, he switched to psychology, with psychopathology and computer science as a minor. 

Above: Logo of the University of Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Images of New York City, USA

He was also an intern worked at various psychiatric clinics. 

He explains his choice of studies because of his interest in literature:

He wanted to find out more about people as a subject of literature. 

Dropping out of psychology studies was a conscious decision to put writing at the center of his life. 

Now his only choice was to write or go back to work as an accountant.

After lengthy stays in New York, Paris and Scandinavia, Peter Stamm settled in Winterthur in 1990. 

Above: Winterthur, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Here he worked primarily as a journalist, which enabled him to publish his texts for the first time. 

Among others, Stamm worked for the Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) (New Zürich Times), the Tages-Anzeiger (Daily Gazette), Weltwoche (World Week) and the satirical magazine Nebelspalter (Fog splitter). 

From 1997 he was a member of the editorial board of the literary magazine Entwürfe (Drafts)

From 1998 to 2003 he lived in Zürich, since then back in Winterthur. 

Above: Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

After the success of his first novel and the publications that followed, his work as a journalist took a back seat to literature, on which he now concentrates. 

Stamm has been a member of the Association of Swiss Authors since 2003.

Peter Stamm is the author of narrative prose, radio and theatre plays. 

Characteristic is his distanced narrative style and his simple style, which consists of short main clauses and almost completely does without decorative adjectives, metaphors or comparisons. 

Stamm himself describes that his style is strongly based on a repeated reduction of what is written. 

The more language recedes into the background, the more real the drawn images become.

In his own words, Stamm writes “about people and about relationships between people”. 

Recurring themes are the diverse possibilities of love relationships, the impossibility of love, distance and closeness, and the relationship between image and reality. 

In his work, the focus is not on the content, but on the way in which something is told. 

That’s why he doesn’t choose original content:

That distracts from the quality of the text.

With his third novel, An einem Tag wie diesem (On a Day Like This), Stamm moved from the Arche publishing house in Zürich to the S. Fischer publishing house in Frankfurt am Main. 

Even before that, unlike most Swiss authors, he sold his books five times more often in Germany than in Switzerland. 

Fellow writer Daniel Arnet explained this with a “Helvetism-free language” and “content that is free of geraniums” and “not federally coded” in its universality. 

Above: Daniel Arnet

A review in the Literary Quartet in 1999, Marcel Reich-Ranicki commented that Stamm’s Blitzreis (Black Ice) collection of stories was one of the most beautiful and important books of the season, while Hellmuth Karasek judged:

This is a narrator who can do a lot because he knows how to omit and concentrate.” 

Above: Title screen shot of Das Literarische Quartett (The Literary Quartet)(2DF)

Above: Marcel Reich-Ranicki (1920 – 2013)

Above: Hellmuth Karasek (1934 – 2015)

More than 150 translations of Peter Stamm’s works have appeared in 40 languages.

The novel Agnes was filmed in 2016 by Johannes Schmid under the same name. 

Storyline: The 41-year-old non-fiction author Walter begins an affair with the much younger and unapproachable student Agnes. 

She persuades him to write a novel about her so that she can find out how her personality affects him. 

Fiction and reality soon become blurred:

Agnes realizes that Walter is beautifying her in the novel and glorifying their relationship. 

Increasingly she behaves as Walter describes her in the story. 

When Agnes becomes pregnant, Walter reacts differently than Agnes hoped so that she breaks up with him. 

After the miscarriage, they initially find each other again. 

When Agnes decides that the novel should end with her suicide, it remains unclear to the viewer whether her death by freezing is just fictitious or also real. 

In the end, Walter is alone again.

Based on the short story Der Lauf der Dinge (The Natural Way of Things) by Peter Stamm, Ulrike Kofler made the feature film Was wir wollten (What We Wanted) (2019).

Storyline: Niklas and Alice are a happy couple who really lack nothing, but they still suffer from their unfulfilled desire to have children. 

Four attempts at artificial insemination using in vitro fertilization have already failed. 

Therefore, the two decide to take a break in Sardinia to rethink their life plans together.

In Sardinia, a lot of things come up that the two had tried to suppress up until now. 

An apparently good-humoured couple from Tyrol (Austria) is moving into the house next door. 

Their two children, the pubescent David and the five-year-old Denise, initially make it difficult for Alice to come to terms with her unfulfilled desire to have children. 

David’s suicide attempt changes Niklas and Alice’s attitude towards the meaning of life and one suspects that they are abandoning their previous plan of life.

My favourite Stamm novel is Weit über das Land (To the Back of Beyond).

Storyline: Happily married with two children and a comfortable home in a Swiss town, Thomas and Astrid enjoy a glass of wine in their garden on a night like any other.

Called back to the house by their son’s cries, Astrid goes inside, expecting her husband to join her in a bit.

But Thomas gets up and, after a brief moment of hesitation, opens the gate and walks out. 

No longer bound by the ties of his everyday life – family, friends, work -Thomas begins a winding trek across the countryside, exposed as never before to the Alpine winter.

At home, Astrid wonders where he is gone, when he will come back, whether he is still alive. 

Following Thomas and Astrid on their separate paths, To the Back of Beyond becomes ultimately a meditation on the limits of freedom and on the craving to be wanted.

There is much in this story that I can relate to – of my own life’s journey and of the journeys of others.

I wonder how Onken would classify this type of man.

Above: Le Penseur (The Thinker), Auguste Rodin Museum, Paris, France

Tabea Steiner grew up on a farm in Altishausen in the Canton of Thurgau. 

Above: Tabea Steiner

Above: Altishausen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

She trained as a primary school teacher and studied German and history at the University of Bern from 2004 to 2016. 

Above: Logo of the University of Bern, Canton Bern, Switzerland

Since 2004, Steiner has been working in the mediation of literature. 

She organizes and moderates readings and is, among other things, the initiator and member of the management board of the Thun Literature Festival, which is organized by the Project Literaare.  

Above: Thun, Canton Bern, Switzerland

In her first novel, Balg (Brat), Steiner tells of a childhood in the country:

Chris and Antonia dream of a family idyll in the country. 

However, the whole thing turns out to be more difficult than expected, since, on the one hand, everyday life with Timon, her child, proves to be more strenuous than expected and, on the other hand, Chris has trouble finding enough work in the country. 

The young couple separates shortly thereafter and from then on Antonia takes care of her son alone. 

It turns out early on that the boy is a problematic child. 

Because in the playgroup he can’t help but bite or bother other children. 

His behavior remains precarious. 

At the same time, Antonia threatens to get lost in the everyday life of the village and cares only half-heartedly for her son. 

No one seems to be able to break through to Timon except Valentin, the current postman and former teacher who once taught Antonia. 

Antonia doesn’t like Valentin and tries to have as little to do with him as there was an incident with Tanja, Valentin’s daughter and Antonia’s best friend. 

The boy often visits Valentin because he has rabbits that Timon likes to take care of. 

Since the situation with the difficult boy is not getting any better and he has now also started smoking, Lydia (Timon’s grandmother) discusses with Konrad (another villager) a possible break for the mother and her son. 

He is to spend a while on a farm. 

He likes it there very much, but Antonia is not satisfied and goes to pick him up against his will. 

The relationship between the two is getting worse and worse. 

Shortly thereafter, Antonia introduces her new boyfriend (Markus). 

Markus and the boy don’t like each other. 

It goes so far that the new lover says he only comes when the lad is gone. 

When the time with Timon doesn’t get any easier, the lovers decide to go on vacation. 

The mother sells Timon’s new bike, which he had longed for, for a new coat. 

In addition, Markus persuades Antonia that he can have her son’s room and that the boy can move in with Lydia. 

This change of residence is intended as an interim solution until the boy has to go into a home. 

When the boy finds out about this decision, he leaves home and spends the night in the abandoned cheese factory. 

Valentin supports him by providing him with food and washing his clothes. 

When the boy returns to the apartment one evening, he happens to meet Markus. 

The two fight. 

Finally, the half-naked boy is dumped at Lydia’s front door. 

In the future he will spend the week at the home and at the weekend he will stay with his grandmother. 

The story ends with a dialogue between Lydia and Valentin. 

They talk about Timon and Valentin offers him a job.

Told chronologically, the 236-page story follows Timon from birth to early teens. 

Flashbacks into the lives of the people around are reproduced piece by piece in the form of memories and thoughts, which never come together to form a complete picture even at the end of the novel. 

The riddle surrounding the dispute between Antonia, or rather Tanja, and Valentin creates a tension that runs through the entire book.

In her review of the novel, Xenia Boyarsky wrote: 

The perspectives are worked out precisely and the relationships between the characters can be felt in detail. 

In the constant alternation of observing and being observed, the inhabitants of the novel appear both sympathetic and unsympathetic at the same time, and the dichotomy of good and evil becomes blurred. 

The reader staggers from one character perspective to the next, always looking for answers, for the why and maybe for improvement.

Tabea Steiner writes mercilessly, directly and without hesitation. 

Every sentence reverberates, makes you pause and at one point or another even put the book aside because what is there seems unbelievable at first glance.“, writes Xenia Bojarski.

Above: Xenia Bojarski

And yet Steiner tells the story with convincing sensitivity and does not turn the inside of the protagonists inside out, as Gallus Frei-Tomic writes in his review of the novel: 

Another quality of this novel are all the half-shadows that are not illuminated, the mere hints that are left to the reader, but which resonate and give the book, the narration, space. 

And last but not least, it is the calm, careful way of storytelling, a language that not only carefully approaches the content, but also in its expression.”

Above: Gallus Frei-Tomic

In the official laudatory speech of the Swiss Book Prize, the writer Monika Steiner praises:

Tabea Steiner manages to control the tension through the dramaturgy, the reader feels the escalating drama without coming up with catastrophes and violent events. 

As a narrator, she keeps her distance, soberly describes the everyday life of the single mother, documents excerpts of village life and the people in Timon’s life. 

From the very first sentence – “The amniotic sac bursts, Chris drives Antonia to the hospital in the small town nearby, twenty-four hours later the birth is initiated.” – you are drawn in by the pull, which is caused by the changing perspectives of the main characters and also the non-conforming perception at times generated by Timon is taken away.

The author tells in an impressive way how a child slips away from everyone.” 

She goes on to say that from beginning to end, no chapters break or stop the narrative flow. 

“Every word is spot on, every selected episode of this sad childhood shows the traces on the child’s soul and the consequences of it in razor-sharp images. 

And nobody, neither the parents, the grandmother with her daughter, the teacher, manages to have a real conversation. 

Therein lies the true art of this harrowing story. 

The novel is a desperately tender book about love and speechlessness. 

It becomes a literary event through the richness of its images and the sovereign intensity of the language treatment.

Above: Monika Steiner

I find myself unsympathetic to Antonia.

She abandons her husband at a time when he needed her emotional support, then neglects her son in search of her own emotional needs.

Her son finds happiness on a farm and she takes him from it against his will.

Her selfishness and thoughtlessness create the broken boy.

The world needs fewer women like Antonia.

I suspect Onken would be more sympathetic to Antonia than I.

  • Timon Altweg and Nils Günther (pianists)

Timon Altwegg has been living in Kreuzlingen, by the Bodensee, since 1992, from where he has a busy concert schedule. 

He has become a sought-after soloist and chamber musician and has been invited to perform in concerts throughout the United States and throughout Europe. 

In the summer of 2001, Timon Altwegg was invited to the Llanca festival in Spain. 

Further concerts with him were broadcast live on Hungarian radio and television as well as on Austrian television (ORF). 

Timon Altwegg also celebrated great successes in South America:

In 2005 and in autumn 2007 he toured through Ecuador, Colombia, Guatemala and El Salvador.

In May 2004, Timon Altwegg was acclaimed by an audience of 1,200 in a historic concert when he became the first foreign soloist to perform with the Iraqi National Symphony Orchestra in Baghdad since 1990. 

Timon Altwegg’s excellent technique is also appreciated by many contemporary composers who entrust him with the world premiere of their works.

Above: Timon Altwegg

As a composer, Nils Günther orients himself towards the doctrine of the phases of change. 

His music is medically therapeutic in the sense that it seeks to bring the listener into a state of balance.

Above: Nils Günther

  • The German cyclist Jan Ullrich once resided here.

Above: Jan Ullrich

Jan Ullrich was born in Rostock as the second child of the concrete worker Werner Ullrich and his wife Marianne, née Kaatz. 

He grew up with two brothers (Stefan and Thomas Ullrich) and a half-brother (Felix Kaatz) in Biestow and Papendorf.

Ullrich’s father first worked in a Rostock record factory and had been stationed in Rostock as a soldier since 1973. 

Marianne Ullrich studied agricultural sciences at the University of Rostock, completed her studies with a thesis on the effects of grain aphids and worked as a waitress in a Biestower inn. 

Ullrich’s parents separated in 1979.

His father founded a new family in Rostock and moved to Bad Schwartau after reunification, but lost contact with his son.

Above: Rostock, Mecklenburg-West Pomerania, Germany

In 1997, Jan Ullrich was the first and only German to win the Tour de France. 

In addition, he was five-time 2nd and once 4th in the Tour, World Amateur Road Race Champion, twice World Individual Time Trial Champion, and winner of the 2000 Olympic Road Race.

Due to his involvement in the Spanish doping scandal Fuentes, he was excluded from the Tour de France 2006 and his contract terminated without notice. 

(The Fuentes doping scandal was a doping scandal in international cycling. 

The eponymous former team doctor of the Liberty Seguros cycling team, Eufemiano Fuentes, had been selling illegal, performance-enhancing drugs to people on the international cycling scene since at least 2003, through an extensive network. 

On 23 May 2006, as part of a raid, Spanish police arrested Fuentes as well as Liberty Seguros’ sporting director Manolo Saiz and medic José Luis Merano. 

They seized large quantities of blood bags and doping substances, as well as a list of code names that were interpreted as cyclist pseudonyms. 

Above: Eufemiano Fuentes

According to the list, the suspected customers included some of the top cyclists of the time, such as Jan Ullrich, Ivan Basso and Francisco Mancebo, as well as over 50 other cyclists. 

The scandal attracted a great deal of media attention when those 58 riders were excluded from participating in the 2006 Tour de France, including eventual two-time Tour winner Alberto Contador. 

In Germany, the investigations by the Bonn public prosecutor’s office against Jan Ullrich and his personal adviser Rudy Pevenage were the focus of media interest.

The Fuentes scandal is the most comprehensive doping affair in cycling history. 

The incidents caused lasting damage to the public image of cycling, especially since many criminal investigations against suspected drivers and officials remained fruitless due to the lack of anti-doping laws and the professional cyclists concerned were able to continue their careers without impairments or after short-term suspensions.

In addition to cyclists, members of other sports, especially track and field athletes and soccer players, have also been linked to the network. 

In December 2010, the affair reached a new high with another 14 arrests, including Marta Dominguez, the vice-president of the Spanish Athletics Federation.)

Above: Marta Dominguez

After years of proceedings, the Court of Arbitration for Sport (CAS) found Ullrich guilty of doping in 2012 and annulled his successes as of 1 May 2005. 

Above: Béthusy Castle, headquarters of the Court of Arbitration for Sport in Lausanne, Canton Vaud, Switzerland

On 26 February 2007, Ullrich declared his active cycling career over.

I have often wondered:

How does a person psychologically come back from such a public shaming?

Ullrich lived in Merdingen, Germany, from 1994 to 2002 with his partner, Gaby Weiss, with whom he had a daughter, Sarah Maria, on 1 July 2003.

Above: Merdingen, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

They moved to Münsterlingen (Scherzingen) in 2002.

Since separating in 2005, allegedly because Weiss’s reluctance to be in the media spotlight conflicted with Ullrich’s celebrity life, Ullrich continued to live in Scherzingen.

Weiss returned with Sarah to Merdingen.

Above: Merdingen town hall with St. Remigius Church in the background

In September 2006, Ullrich married Sara Steinhauser, the sister of his former teammate and training partner, Tobias.

Their first child, Max, was born five weeks prematurely on 7 August 2007.

Their second son, Benno, was born on 25 January 2011.

A third son, Toni, was born on 31 October 2012.

Above: Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

On the evening of 19 May 2014, Ullrich, under the influence of alcohol, caused a serious traffic accident in Mattwil (Canton Thurgau), injuring two people and causing property damage of tens of thousands of Swiss francs. 

Ullrich stated, among other things, that he had “slipped off the brake pedal”.

Ullrich was convicted of drunk driving.

He received a suspended sentence of four years plus a fine of €10,000.

Above: Mattwil, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In August 2016, Ullrich moved with his family from Münsterlingen to Establiments north of the Mallorcan capital Palma.

Personal issues with alcohol and drugs led to his separation from his wife, Sara, at the end of 2017.

She moved back to Germany with their three sons.

On 3 August 2018, Ullrich faced charges in Spain after he broke in and threatened his neighbour, German actor and filmmaker Til Schweiger, in Mallorca.

After the incident, he announced that he would seek therapy and traveled to Germany a few days later for this purpose.

Above: Palma de Mallorca, Balearic Islands, Spain

On 9 August 2018, the police arrested him in the luxury hotel Villa Kennedy in Frankfurt am Main. 

Under the influence of alcohol and drugs, he is said to have “choked an escort until her eyes went black“. 

Above: Villa Kennedy, Frankfurt am Main, Hesse, Germany

After his release from police custody, he was temporarily committed to a psychiatric hospital for an incident. 

On 26 September 2018, a catering worker filed a criminal complaint against Ullrich for bodily harm because he is said to have pressed his thumb on his larynx at Hamburg Airport.

He then went to a rehab clinic.

By June 2019, Ullrich was on the mend. 

According to his own statement, he is “clean”. 

He now lives in Merdingen again and has regular contact with his family.

On 28 August 2019, a German court ordered him to pay a fine of €7,200.

Ullrich featured on a podcast with equally disgraced ex-cyclist Lance Armstrong covering the 2021 UCI Road World Championships, in which Ullrich said that he was fully recovered from his personal difficulties but that he had almost suffered the same fate as Marco Pantani, who died following acute cocaine poisoning in 2004.

Above: Lance Armstrong

Ullrich told Armstrong:

Three years ago I had big problems and then you came to see me.

I was so glad you came, and yes, I was just like Marco Pantani . . . nearly dead.

Above: Italian racing cyclist Marco Pantani (1970 – 2004)

Ullrich’s chances, his abilities and his training status were regularly the subject of lively discussions among journalists, cycling experts and fans over the years of his active cycling career. 

For example, the sports journalist Oskar Beck wrote:

For a short time, the whole of cycling Germany had to fear that he would ruin himself with these escapades – too much cake in winter, ominous pills in the disco, wheel stands that were knocked over and similar mishaps.” 

Above: Oskar Beck

Ullrich was also often accused by critics of not having the toughness, the unconditional will to win or the meticulous preparation for the season.

Eddy Merckx, for example, said :

If Ullrich had grown up in Belgium, he would have won the Tour three times. 

It’s not all in the body.

It’s in the head.

Above: Belgian racing cyclist Eddy Merckx

What is wrong with men?

There is a feeling in the air that men can learn to be happier, better people and that it can be a positive thing to be a man.

Men are not monsters – at least not by choice.

Boys in our society are horrendously under-fathered and are not given the processes or the mentor figures to help their growth into mature men.

With no deep training in healthy masculinity, boys’ bodies get bigger, but they do not have the inner changes to match.

They act out a role – a complete facade which does not work in any of life’s arenas.

Men are not winners.

There are very few happy men.

(Girls, for all the obstacles put in their way, at least grow up with a continuous exposure to women at home, at school and in friendship networks.

From this they learn a communicative style of womanhood that enables them to get close to other women and give and receive support throughout their lives.)

Male friendship networks are awkward and oblique, lacking in emotional intimacy and short term.

Boys and young men never know the inner world of older men, so each makes up an image based on the externals which he then acts out to “prove” he is a man.

Just as a chameleon bases its colour on its surroundings and has no “true” colour, so men often have very little sense of their true selves.

We are lost and unhappy.

The lack of help to grow into a man and the resulting desperate clinging to an “I’m fine” facade has disastrous consequences.

Men are a mess.

The terrible effects on our marriages, fathering abilities, our health and our leadership skills are a matter of public record.

Our marriages fail, our children hate us, we die from stress and on the way we destroy the world.

Women have had to overcome oppression, but men’s difficulties are with isolation.

Women’s enemies are largely in the world around them – a world they have shaped for themselves.

Men’s enemies are often on the inside – in the walls we put around our own hearts.

The enemies, the prisons from which men must escape are loneliness, compulsive competition and lifelong emotional timidity.

Men are a problem to women, but rarely is this intentional.

We are to an even greater degree a problem to ourselves.

Men and women are co-victims in patterns of living and relating that are in drastic need of revision.

The issue I have with some women is their tendency to support one another by blaming men for all their woes without acknowledging that perhaps some of women’s behaviour is also responsible for the damage they do to themselves and their partners.

Women claim that men dominate the world and are demanding equal rights.

I am all for this, but, ladies, equal rights require equal responsibility (along with equal difficulty).

One cannot ask for support and equality simultaneously.

Feminism is about women liberating themselveschanging their perceptions, laws and employment practices.

A man cannot be a feminist any more than a lion can graze on grass.

But you cannot liberate only half the human race.

Any move to change the order of things which does not also address the fact that men are equally lost, trapped and miserable only creates a backlash.

Rather than blaming all men for their woes, women should take accountability for themselves and acknowledge that their perceptions of male and female roles need changing and play an important part in the healing needed between the genders.

Too often there is an expectation that a man must be a woman’s support system emotionally (and often financially) while men are supposed to be emotionally (and financially) strong without the necessary foundations that maturity should have developed.

Happiness is never found in someone else.

Happiness must be developed from within ourselves before we are emotionally capable of loving relationships.

It is easy to condemn men like Ullrich and Armstrong, but we need to go beyond censure and instead seek comprehension and compassion for these unhappy men and their unfortunate decisions.

  • Sabine Wen-Ching Wang (playwright/poet)

Sabine Wen-Ching Wang was born in 1973 to a Swiss mother and a Taiwanese father in Münsterlingen, Thurgau.

She grew up in Appenzell. 

Above: Appenzell, Canton Appenzell Innerrhoden, Switzerland

She studied Sinology and East Asian Art History in Zürich and Taipei.

Above: Images of Taipei, Taiwan

Wang mainly writes theatre and radio plays and poetry. 

She also publishes texts in anthologies and magazines.

Some works penned by Wang:

  • Be crazy (2003)(Theatre play)
  • Late (2004) (Theatre play)
  • The pocket (2005) (Theatre play)
  • This is not a love song (2006) (Theatre play)
  • The green chick (2008) (Theatre play)
  • Corea.(2009) (Theatre play)
  • La Ceremoni(2010) (Theatre play)
  • Dog Dog (2011) (Theatre play)
  • Cosmos Hotel (2000) (Radio play)
  • The Invitation (2009) (Radio play)
  • The Land in Me (2010) (Poetry)
  • The Children’s Room as Terra Incognita (2005) (Essay)

Above: Sabine Wen-Ching Wang

  • Laurens Walter (Austrian actor)

Above: Laurens Walter

In 2001, Laurens Walter stood in front of the camera for the first time for the TV film When Love Is Lost

Walter also played in the feature film Die Österreichische Methode (The Austrian Method) (2006). 

(In this collective project of five young directors, the stories of five women, who are by no means weak, intersect…

24 hours later, some will have survived, some will have not:

Julia suddenly discovers the longing to explore her own abysses. 

A nocturnal odyssey takes her to a ski hall where she wants to explore “the Austrian Method“.

An unwanted guest is sitting with psychologist Roman Fischer and his wife Carmen:

Eva has come to dinner and doesn’t want to leave.

Clara is struggling with the diagnosis of a brain tumor. 

She oscillates desperately between repression and the decision to take her own life.

Singer Maleen tries to break open the deadlocked mechanisms of her love affair with the pianist Sascha with a poisoned ecstasy pill.

Hans and Mona (who is tied to the bed) live an amour fou in which the roles of perpetrator and victim become blurred.

The episodic film is not primarily a film about tiredness. 

It is much more about returning to life through a borderline experience or perhaps arriving at it for the first time. 

It is about the feeling of being in the wrong life and missing out on what is really important. 

Just like when you are diagnosed with a serious illness, you suddenly no longer understand how you could waste your life with all these everyday worries and petty entanglements.)

Above: Flag of Austria (Österreich)

Walter became known to a wider audience through the role of Lars Lehnhoff in the TV series Stromberg.

 

(Stromberg is a German, award-winning comedy TV series named after the central protagonist Bernd Stromberg, around whom the events of the series revolve. 

Stromberg is an adaptation of the British series The Office.

A TV team accompanies the everyday office life of the fictitious Capitol Versicherung AG with the camera. 

The place of action is usually the claims settlement department M-Z, which is headed by Bernd Stromberg. 

Of course, Stromberg wants his team – especially him, as the manager and “dad” of the department – to always be shown from the best side. 

However, he rarely succeeds in putting “his team“, and above all himself, in a good light.)

Above: Christoph Maria Herbst (Bernd Stromberg)

Walter played his first leading role (Dirk) in the feature film Morscholz (2008).

(The film Morscholz does not tell a story, but describes a state, the state of unfulfilled relationships in a family, the struggle for love and life itself.

One of the protagonists is Bernd, who almost despairs of his inner helplessness. 

He watches helplessly as his family slips away from him. 

His wife Fabienne can no longer stand him.

Since Bernd is unable to face his problems, alcohol is often the only way out for him. 

The deaf-mute Flipper is no less his victim.

Bernd’s sister Gertrud works with a pinball machine in a beverage store. 

From time to time Flipper comes to her house. 

Since Gertrud lives alone and is lonely, she carefully tries to approach Flipper.

Nephew Dirk can’t stand the boredom of the village and shows Michel, the son of Fabienne and Bernd, how best to kill wasps.

During one of the nightly senseless binges in the party room, the situation escalates:

Dirk goes nuts and threatens Bernd with a gun.)

In 2017, Walter played the role of Commissioner Fischer in the film drama Aus dem Nichts (In the Fade).

(Aus dem Nichts is a film by Fatih Akin, inspired by the 2004 nail bomb attack in Köln (Cologne) by the National Socialist Underground (NSU) (neo-Nazis) terrorist cell. 

On 9 June 2004, a nail bomb detonated in Köln, in a business area popular with immigrants from Turkey.

Twenty-two people were wounded, with four sustaining serious injuries.

A barber shop was destroyed.

Many shops and numerous parked cars were seriously damaged by the explosion and by the nails added to the bomb for extra damage.

Authorities initially excluded the possibility of a terrorist attack.

The bomb, which contained more than 800 nails, was hidden in a travel compartment on a bicycle left in front of the barber shop.

Above: Keupstrasse, Köln, Germany – where the 2004 nail bombing occurred

In November 2011, after having been accused by authorities of being responsible for a robbery in Eisenach, the neo-Nazi terrorist group National Socialist Underground (Nationalsozialistischer Untergrund) released a video claiming responsibility for the Köln bombing.

The National Socialist Underground (NSU) was a neo-Nazi terrorist organization in Germany formed around 1999 to murder people with a migrant background for racist and xenophobic motives. 

The three main perpetrators Uwe Mundlos (1973 – 2011), Uwe Böhnhardt (1977 – 2011) and Beate Zschäpe came from Jena (East Thuringia) and lived in hiding in Chemnitz and Zwickau (Saxony) from 1998. 

From 2000 to 2007, they murdered nine migrants and policewoman Michèle Kiesewetter (1984 – 2007), committed 43 murder attempts, three bomb attacks – Nuremberg (Bavaria)(1999) and Köln (Cologne) (North Rhine-Westphalia) (2001 / 2004) and 15 robberies. 

The focus of Auf dem Nichts is on a woman who loses her German-Kurdish husband and son in a bomb attack. 

When the right-wing extremist pair of perpetrators is acquitted by the court due to a lack of evidence, she looks for the perpetrators in order to take vigilante justice.

In preparation for this film, Akin drove to München (Munich) three times to follow the trial of Beate Zschäpe. 

Above: Beate Zschäpe

Dealing with the victims of the right-wing extremist terror group at the trials was the trigger for him to make the film.

Akin had also inherited the dialogues in court, the silence of the prosecutor, and the indifferent coldness of the accused. 

Akin says:

The scandal was not that German neo-Nazis had killed ten people. 

The real scandal was that the German police, society and the media were all convinced that the perpetrators must be Turks or Kurds, that some mafia was behind it.

Regarding the inner conflict of his protagonist Katja, Akin says:

There is a state judiciary and there is an individual sense of justice. 

And sometimes the two clash. 

The film is also about this clash.” )

Above: German filmmaker Fatih Akin

This list of Münsterlingen personalities is, of course, not complete.

Above: Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 20 November 2022

It is with a sense of irony that I write about Aus dem Nichts:

On Sunday 13 November 2022, an explosion occurred on Istiklal Avenue (an 1.4 kilometre / 0.87 mile pedestrian street and one of the most famous avenues in Istanbul) in the Beyoğlu district – a district on the European side of Istanbul, separated from the old city by the Golden Horn of Istanbul (a major urban waterway and the primary inlet of the Bosphorus) – at 1620 hours local time.

Six people were killed and 81 others were injured.

The city had already been targeted by terrorist attacks in 2015 and 2016 by the Islamic State (Daesh) and militants associated with the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK).

A Daesh suicide bombing in the same area killed four people in 2016.

Above: Flag of the Islamic State

No group has claimed responsibility, but Turkish authorities suspect Kurdish separatists to be behind the attack, notably the PKK and the Syrian Kurdish Democratic Union Party (PYD).

Above: Flag of the PKK

The PKK disclaimed any responsibility.

Above: Logo of the PYD

Turkiye’s Interior Minister, Suleyman Soylu, announced the arrest of the bomber and 46 others.

Above: Süleyman Soylu, Turkish Minister of the Interior

Istiklal Avenue is a popular tourist area and one of the main roads leading to Taksim Square. 

Above: Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul, Turkey

The bomb went off in front of a shopping store.

At the time of the blast, the area was more crowded than normal, as a football club was to play nearby.

Above: Turkish police and explosives experts work the scene of the explosion.

According to Turkish news portal Oda TV, the explosion was caused by an improvised explosive device containing TNT.

 

The blast caused windows to break and images circulating on social media showed people bleeding. 

Firefighters and ambulances rushed to the scene. 

The police set up a perimeter around the scene around the bombing site and banned people from coming to İstiklal Avenue and Taksim Square.

Above: Police officers secure the area after the explosion.

Istanbul’s Chief Public Prosecutors Office quickly opened an investigation after the attack.

At least eight prosecutors have been assigned to the case. 

Justice Minister Bekir Bozdağ said a woman was filmed sitting on a bench for about 40 minutes and that she left shortly before the blast.

Above: Bekir Bozdağ, Turkish Justice Minister

President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan condemned the attack.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

The Governor of Istanbul Ali Yurlikaya reported that he was convinced that it was a terrorist attack.

Above: Ali Yerikaya, Governor of Istanbul

The next day, the Minister of the Interior Süleyman Soylu formally accused the PKK of being behind the attack and announced the arrests of the bomber and 21 others.

Soylu argued that the attack was carried out by the PKK in retaliation for the Turkish invasion of northeastern Syria and criticized the US for its support of the Kurdish People’s Defense Units (YPG) in northeastern Syria.

He had previously blamed the US for an armed attack against a police station in southern Turkey in September and had said that the US had funded the Syrian Kurdish Democratic Union Party (PYD) up to $2 billion since 2019.

Above: Flag of Syria

After the main suspect in the attack, Ahlam Albashir, a Syrian national, was arrested, the Turkish police claimed that she confirmed her affiliation with PKK and YPG, and that she had been trained by them as a special intelligence officer in Syria, entering Turkey through Afrin (northern Syria).

Ahlam Albashir has been working at a textile workshop with several female workers.

Some of them were also detained. 

It was reported that two human traffickers who are suspected to have been trying to bring the suspect to Bulgaria were also detained.

Above: Ahlam Albashir

Jiyan Tosun, a lawyer and member of the Human Rights Association, was accused by Adem Taşkaya, a politician of the far-right Victory Party, of having planted the bomb by order of the PKK.

Above: Logo of the Turkish Human Rights Association (İnsan Hakları Derneği)

Above: Adem Taşkaya

Above: Logo of the Victory Party

Following this she was threatened repeatedly and preferred to stay at a courthouse instead of returning home.

Above: Jiyan Tosun

Around an hour after the explosion took place, a broadcast ban was issued by the Istanbul Criminal Court for all visual and audio news and social networking sites related to the incident.

Only interviews with government officials are allowed to be reported.

Above: Palace of Justice, Istanbul, Turkey

CNN Türk and TRT then stopped reporting on the incident.

Above: Logo of the Turkish Radio and Television Corporation

Internet feeds throughout Turkey and access to social media platforms, such as Twitter, Instagram and YouTube, have been significantly decreased since the event.

Istanbul’s anti-terrorist office decided to suspend the rights of defense of suspects but also of Internet users who have shared “negative information” about the attack on social networks.

Above: Logo of US social media network Twitter

Ekrem İmamoğlu, the Mayor of Istanbul, inspected the bombing site.

Above: Mayor of Istanbul Ekrem İmamoğlu

Ekrem İmamoğlu is a Turkish businessman, building contractor and centre-left politician serving as the 32nd Mayor of Istanbul.

He was first elected with 4.1 million votes and won with a margin of 13,000 votes against his Justice and Development Party (AKP) opponent in the March 2019 mayoral election as the joint Nation Alliance candidate of the Republican People’s Party (CHP) and the IYI (Good) Party, but served only from 17 April until 6 May 2019, when the election was annulled.

He was then reelected in a renewed election on 23 June 2019 by an even larger margin of 800,000 votes.

He had previously been the Mayor of Beylikdüzü, a western district of Istanbul, between 2014 and 2019.

İmamoğlu emerged as a dark horse candidate to be the Nation Alliance’s joint candidate for Istanbul Mayor, overtaking more prominent contenders, such as Muharrem Ince, the CHP’s 2018 presidential candidate.

On the eve of the elections, İmamoğlu gained a narrow lead in the mayoral race, with initial results showing his lead to be around 23,000 votes.

His lead was eventually cut to 13,729 after a series of recounts backed by the government.

İmamoğlu was sworn in as Mayor of Istanbul on 17 April, following the conclusion of all recounts.

On 6 May 2019, the Supreme Electoral Council convened and voted to annul the results of the mayoral election.

Members of the Council accepted the AKP’s objection to the local election results in Istanbul, with seven members of the High Court voting in favour of calling a new election and four against.

The election board also cancelled İmamoğlu’s mayoral certificate until the renewed elections.

A new election took place on 23 June 2019 in which İmamoğlu was re-elected as the Mayor by a margin of approximately 800,000 votes.

He was sworn into office on 27 June 2019.

Because of the scale of his victory and popularity, he has been called a possible candidate for the Turkish presidency in the next elections.

Above: Istanbul, Turkey

Health Minister Fahrettin Koca said the victims were being treated in the hospitals nearby.

Above: Fahrettin Koca, Turkish Health Minister

Many political leaders expressed their condolences to the media, also setting forth that the event was a case of terrorism. 

Above: People hug at the scene of the explosion.

President Erdoğan released a statement, stating:

After the treacherous attack, our members of the police went to the scene, and our wounded were sent to the surrounding hospitals.

Efforts to take over Turkey and the Turkish nation through terrorism will reach their goal neither today nor in the future, the same way they failed yesterday.

Above: Flag of the President of Turkey –

The 16 stars represent 16 claimed historical Turkic empires.

It was designed in 1922 and adopted in 1925.

The leader of the Republican People’s Party (CHP) (Cumhuriyet Halk Partisi) Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu said immediately after the attack :

We must unite against all forms of terrorism.

We must raise a common voice against all forms of terrorism and we must condemn terrorism.

No matter where the terror comes from, whatever its source, 85 million people living in this country must be saying the same thing.

They must curse terrorism, those who commit it and those who support it.

When we do this, we will have a unity of heart, it will be better for us to embrace each other.

Above: Logo of the Cumhuriyet Halk Partisi

Above: Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu

The chairwoman of the Good Party (İYİ) Meral Akşener condemned the attack, stating:

“I strongly condemn this vile attack.

We would like those responsible to be caught as soon as possible.”

Above: Logo of the Good Party

Above: Meral Akşener

The Kurdish People’s Democratic Party (HDP) (Halkların Demokratik Partisi) expressed its “deep sorrow and grief over the explosion that has killed six of our fellow citizens and injured 81 others“, adding that:

Our grief and sorrow is great.

We wish God’s mercy to the citizens who lost their lives.”

The attack was also condemned by the imprisoned former chairman of the HDP Selahattin Demirtas.

Above: Logo of the People’s Democratic Party (Halkların Demokratik Partisi)

Above: Selahattin Demirtaş

(Demirtaş was the presidential candidate of the HDP in the 2014 presidential election, coming in 3rd place.

He led the HDP to gather 13.1% at the June 2015 parliamentary elections and 10.7% in the snap elections in November 2015, coming 4th in each election.

He has been imprisoned since 4 November 2016 and despite his imprisonment the HDP fielded Demirtaş as its candidate for the 2018 presidential elections, running his campaign from prison.

In a judgement given in December 2020, the European Court for Human Rights judged that, given “the timing of Demirtaş continued detention (coinciding with an important constitutional referendum and the presidential election)” and Turkey’s “systemic trend of “gagging” dissenting voices“, Demirtaş’s continued pre-trial detention’s political purpose had been “predominant“.

The criminal indictment against Demirtaş alleged that in a public statement on the 6 October, the HDP raised support for protests against claimed approach of the Turkish Government shows towards the Islamic State (IS) 13 September 2014 attack on Kobane (northern Syria).

Above: Kobani, Syria

The HDP was blamed for the Kobani protests (large-scale rallies by pro-YPG protestors in Turkey) in 2014, which resulted in the death of over 50 people despite the HDP having called for an investigation on the events leading to the deaths in Parliament, which was turned down by the incumbent Justice and Development Party (AKP) and the Nationalist Movement Party (MHP).

Above: Logo of the Justice and Development Party (Adalet ve Kalkınma Partisi)

Above: Logo of the Nationalist Movement Party (Milliyetçi Hareket Partisi)

President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan blamed Demirtaş for provoking protests, and said that all Kurdish people are the citizens of the Republic of Turkey and no one can attempt to build a state for them.

Demirtaş’s repeatedly stated opposition to both PKK and TSK violence, calling killed Turkish soldiers “the children of this country, our children“, and declaring:

No one has anything to win from a civil war in Turkey.

Just look at Syria and Iraq.” 

Above: Military situation in September 2021

(pink) Syrian Arab Republic / (orange) Syrian Arab Republic and Rojava / (yellow) Rojava / (green) Syrian Interim Government and Turkish occupation / (white) Syrian Salvation Government / (blue) Revolutionary Commando Army and American occupation / (purple) Opposition groups in reconciliation / (grey) Islamic State

Above: Flag of Iraq

Demirtaş’ prosecution also used wiretaps as evidence to show relation with the Democratic Society Congress (DTK), which the prosecution views as a part of the PKK.

Above: Logo of the Democratic Society Congress (Demokratik Toplum Kongresi / Kongreya Civaka Demokratîk)

Since 4 November 2016 he is detained in prison in Edirne, a Turkish border town near Greece and Bulgaria, far away from Diyarbakir in southeastern Turkey, where his family lives.

His wife visits him once a week.

Above: Selimiye Mosque and statue of its architect Mimar Koca Sinan, Edirne, Turkey

His cellmate was for years fellow HDP politician Abdullah Zeydan who was released in January 2022.

Above: Abdullah Zeydan

In March 2022, the arrested mayor of Diyarbakir Adnan Selçuk Mızraklı became his new cellmate.)

Above: Adnan Selçuk Mizrakli

The Turkish Football Federation (TFF) announced that the Süper Lig match at Vodafone Park between Beşiktaş and Antalyaspor was postponed due to the bombing.

Several football clubs offered their condolences.

Above: Turkish Football Federation crest

Above: Vodafone Park, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, Turkey

Above: Beşiktaş logo

A suspect is in custody related to an explosion that killed at least six people and injured at least 81 others in Istanbul on Sunday, Turkey’s Interior Ministry said early Monday.

Above: Members of a forensic team work at the bomb site.

The incident has been deemed a terrorist attack, Turkish Vice President Fuat Oktay said, according to state news agency Anadolu.

We consider it to be a terrorist act as a result of an attacker, whom we consider to be a woman, detonating the bomb.”, Oktay told reporters.

Above: Turkish Vice-President Fuat Oktay

Turkish officials believe Kurdish separatists from the Kurdistan Worker’s Party (PKK) and the Democratic Union Party (PYD) were most likely behind the deadly suspected bomb attack, the country’s Interior Minister, Suleyman Soylu, told reporters Monday.

It is PKK/PYD terrorist organization according to our preliminary findings.”, Soylu said in a press conference at the scene of Sunday’s attack on Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul.

Soylu did not elaborate or provide details of how investigators had reached this conclusion.

A little while ago the person who left the bomb was taken under custody by teams of Istanbul Police Department.

Before their arrest 21 more people were also taken under custody,” the Minister said.

The face of terrorism is bitter, but we will continue this struggle to the end, whatever the cost is.

Above: Turkish Interior Minister Suleyman Soylu

CCTV footage shows a woman sitting on a bench for more than 40 minutes and then getting up one or two minutes before the explosion, leaving a bag or plastic bag behind, according to Turkish Justice Minister Bekir Bozdağ.

Above: Turkish Justice Minister Bekir Bozdağ

Bozdağ, who made the comments in an interview with privately owned A Haber news channel, said Turkish security forces believe the woman is the suspect.

Officials are investigating her.

There are two possibilities.

Either that bag or plastic bag has a mechanism in it, it explodes on its own or someone detonates it from afar.

All of these are currently under investigation.” he added.

The name of the woman is unknown.”, he said.

All the recordings and data about the woman are being analyzed.

Istanbul Governor Ali Yerlikaya said.

We wish God’s mercy on those who lost their lives and a speedy recovery to the injured.”

Above: Istanbul provincial governor Ali Yerikaya

The six people killed include Yusuf Meydan, a member of Turkey’s Ministry of Family and Social Services, and his daughter Ecrin, according to Derya Yanık, the Minister of the agency.

Above: Yusuf Meydan and daughter Ecran

Soylu, the Interior Minister, said Monday that 50 of the 81 people injured have been discharged from the hospital, with 31 people still being treated.

Turkey’s conflict with Kurdish separatist groups has spanned four decades and claimed tens of thousands of lives.

The PKK has been designated a terrorist organization by Turkey, the United States and the European Union.

Above: Flag of Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK)

In particular, the insincerity of our so-called allies who seem friendly to us, who either hide terrorists in their own country, or feeds terrorists in the areas they occupy and send them money from their own senates, is obvious.”, Soylu said.

We will give them a response in the near future, to those who caused us this pain in Beyoglu Istiklal Street so they experience more and more pain.”, Soylu said.

 

Witness Tariq Keblaoui said he was shopping on Istiklal Street when the explosion happened about 10 meters (32.8 feet) ahead of him.

People were scattering immediately.”, said Keblaoui, a Lebanese-based journalist who was on his last day of vacation in the city.

Very shortly after, I could see how many injured were on the ground.”, Keblaoui told CNN.

He says he saw dead bodies and victims who were seriously injured.

There was a man in the store bleeding from his ears and his legs, and his friends were crying near him.”, Keblaoui said.

Istiklal Street was packed with visitors when the blast happened Sunday afternoon, he said.

It went very quickly from a very peaceful Sunday with a very crowded street full of tourists to being what looked like the aftermath of a war zone.”, Keblaoui said.

Above: Tariq Keblaoui

News of the explosion led to a torrent of condolences from around the world.

Above: (in blue) Countries thanked by the Turkish President for expressing their condolences and support

French President Emmanuel Macron, whose own country suffered a deadly terror attack exactly seven years earlier, shared his sympathies for the Turkish people.

On this day so symbolic for our nation, while we think of the victims who fell on 13 November 2015, the Turkish people are struck by an attack in their heart, Istanbul.” Macron tweeted.

To the Turks:

We share your pain.

We stand with you in the fight against terrorism.”

Above: French President Emmanuel Macron

European Council President Charles Michel shared his condolences after Sunday’s deadly blast.

Horrific news from Istanbul tonight,” he said.

All our thoughts are with those currently responding and the people of Türkiye at this very distressing time.”

Above: European Council President Charles Michel

NATO Secretary General Jens Stoltenberg tweeted his “deepest condolences” to the Turkish people, adding that NATO “stands in solidarity with our ally” Turkey.

Above: NATO Secretary General Jens Stoltenberg

The United States “strongly condemns the act of violence that took place today in Istanbul.”, White House Press Secretary Karine Jean-Pierre said Sunday.

Our thoughts are with those who were injured and our deepest condolences go to those who lost loved ones.”

Above: White House Press Secretary Karine Jean-Pierre

The condolences offered by the US Embassy in Turkey were rejected by the Turkish Interior Minister Süleyman Soylu, who said in a televised interview on 14 November 2022 that:

We do not accept the condolences of the US Ambassador.

We reject them.”

Above: Jeffry L. Flake, United States Ambassador to Turkey

Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky tweeted of his “deep sadness” at the news of the blast.

I offer my condolences to the families of those who lost their lives and wish a speedy recovery to the injured.”, Zelensky said.

The pain of the friendly Turkish people is our pain.

Above: President of Ukraine Volodymyr Zelenskyy

A day after the incident the avenue was decorated with 1,200 Turkish flags as a way of remembering the victims of the bombing.

Most tree benches on İstiklal Avenue were removed.

Above: Memorial point after the 13 November 2022 bombing

No group has claimed responsibility, but Turkish authorities announced that Kurdish separatists were behind the attack implicating the PKK and the Syrian Kurdish Democratic Union Party (PYD).

Turkey’s Interior Minister, Süleyman Soylu, announced the arrest of the bomber and 46 others. 

Above: Captain Louis Renault (Claude Rains) tells his officer to “Round up the usual suspects.” as Rick Blaine (Humphrey Bogart), Ilsa Lund (Ingrid Bergman) and Victor Laszlo (Paul Henreid) look on. – Casablanca (1942)

Turkey’s PKK denied any role in the attack, as did the Syrian Democratic Forces (SDF), which accused the Turkish government of creating a pretext for a new ground attack on Syria.

Above: Flag of the Syrian Democratic Forces

During the late 20th and early 21st century, Islamist terrorist groups including al-Qaeda and ISIS carried out many attacks in Istanbul. 

Above: Flag of Al-Qaeda

Kurdish nationalist terrorist groups – including the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK) and the Kurdistan Freedom Hawks (TAK) – did likewise.

Above: Flag of the Kurdistan Freedom Hawks

Islamic State carried out a series of attacks during the mid-2010s.

On 11 May 2013, two car bombs exploded in the town of Reyhanli, Hatay Province, Turkey, close to the busiest land border post (Bab al-Hawa border crossing) with Syria.

51 people were killed and 140 injured in the attack, the deadliest single act of terrorism to occur on Turkish soil up until then — to be surpassed by the 10 October 2015 Ankara bombings with 102 deaths.

The responsibility for the attack is as yet unclear:

Politicians, authorities and the media have named at least six possibilities. 

Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant (ISIL) as late as September 2013, at the occasion of a threat to the Turkish government, suddenly claimed the 11 May 2013 attack.

In response to the attacks, the Turkish government sent air and ground forces to increase the already heavy military presence in the area.

Above: Reyhanli, Hatay Province, Turkey

Around 30 September 2013, according to English-language newspaper/website Today’s Zaman (2007 – 2016):

A statement attributed to ISIL” threatened Turkey with a series of suicide attacks in Istanbul and Ankara unless Turkey would reopen its Syrian border crossings at Bab al-Hawa and Bab al-Salameh before 7 October.

On 20 March 2014, three foreigners emerging from a taxi opened fire with an AK-47 and lobbed a hand grenade, killing a soldier and a policeman who were conducting routine checks on the Ulukisla–Adana Expressway, and injuring four soldiers.

The attackers were wounded in return fire but got away.

Two of the attackers were apprehended at Eminlik village, where villagers, thinking they were wounded Syrians, took them to the local medical clinic.

Kosovan officials confirmed that the attackers were linked to al-Qaeda.

Some Turkish media preferred the scenario that they were from ISIL.

Above: Eminlik, Tarsus District, Mersin Province, Turkey

On 6 January 2015, a bomb is detonated in Istanbul’s Sultanahmet Square.

One police officer was killed, another officer was injured.

Above: Obelisk of Theodosius, Sultanahmet Square, Istanbul, Turkey

After ISIL, in March 2014, had threatened to attack the tomb of Suleyman Shah (1166 – 1227), the grandfather of Osman I (1254 – 1299), the founder of the Ottoman Empire.

The tomb was located in northern Syria.

Above: Qal’at Ja’bar Castle in Syria, as it is surrounded since 1973 by the waters of Lake Assad.

Previously, this was a fortified hilltop overlooking the Euphrates Valley.

According to legend, Suleyman Shah in 1236 drowned in the Euphrates near this castle and was buried by it.

With the creation of this lake in 1973 the tomb was relocated, 85 km (53 mi) northward on the Euphrates River, 27 km (17 miles) from the Turkish border.

On 21 February 2015, Turkey decided to evacuate the tomb site, with a military convoy of hundred armored vehicles and 570 troops, and removing it, some 27 km northward, still in Syria, but now only 200 meters from the Turkish border.

Above: View of the building complex of the Tomb of Suleyman Shah (its second location, 1973 – February 2015), seen from the Euphrates River

On 5 June 2015, just 48 hours before the June 2015 General Election, two separate bombs exploded at an electoral rally in Diyarbakır held by the pro-Kurdish Peoples’ Democratic Party (HDP).

Above: Diyarbakir, Diyarbakir Province, Turkey

Four were killed and dozens were injured.

Suspicions as for the perpetrators lie on ISIL and on some ISIL-linked terrorist cell named the ‘Dokumacilar‘ (Weavers).

Above: Lisa Calan, a Kurdish film director who lost both her legs in the bombing

On 20 July 2015, the municipal cultural center in Suruç in the southeastern province of Sanliurfa was bombed. 34 people, mostly university-aged students planning to reconstruct the Syrian border town of Kobani, were killed and more than 100 people were injured.

ISIL claimed the attack a couple of days later.

According to journalist Serkan Demirtas, this attack could be considered as a declaration of war by ISIL on Turkey.

Above: After the Suruç bombing, forensic science experts in scene of crime, Suruç, Şanlıurfa Province, Turkey

The Ceylanpınar incident (22 – 24 July 2015) saw the killing of two policemen in Ceylanpinar, Turkey, which led to the resumption of the Kurdish – Turkish conflict.

The attack was used by the AKP government as a casus belli to end the otherwise largely successful 2013 – 2015 solution process and resume its war against the PKK.

As the AKP had failed to win a majority in the June 2015 Turkish General Election the month before, and soon after the resumption of hostilities announced the November 2015 Turkish snap general election, analysts believe that the Ceylanpınar killings and return to war have been used to increase Turkish nationalist fervor and favoured the ruling party taking back control over the Turkish Parliament.

Other motives have also been advanced, with the Syrian War encouraging extremist parties from both sides to undermine peace efforts by increasing nationalism and readiness for war.

Above: Ceylanpinar, Şanlıurfa Province, Turkey

On 23 July 2015 at 13:30, five gunmen, identified by the Turkish military as ISIL fighters, attacked a Turkish border outpost in the border town of Elbeyli, Kilis Province, killing Turkish soldier Yalçın Nane and wounding five.

In reaction, Turkish forces pursued the militants into Syria,

Turkish tanks and artillery shelled ISIL militants in northern Syria, killing at least one militant and obliterating a number of ISIL vehicles.

Turkish tanks also bombarded a small (abandoned) Syrian village north of Azaz, Aleppo, in which the ISIL militants were thought to be taking refuge, and killed or wounded several of the ISIL militants who were trying to take cover there.

Around 7 pm on 23 July, reports stated that 100 ISIL militants had been killed, but those reports were criticized by anti-government newspapers.

The Turkish Armed Forces later stated that all five ISIL militants who had attacked the Turkish army in Elbeyli had been killed.

Above: Seal of the Turkish Armed Forces

On 10 October 2015 at 10:04, in Ankara, the capital city of Turkey, two bombs were detonated outside Ankara Central Railway Station.

With a death toll of 109 civilians, the attack surpassed the 2013 Reyhanli bombings as the deadliest terror attack in Turkish history.

Another 500 people were injured.

Above: “Democracy” memorial in front of Ankara Central Railway Station

Censorship monitoring group Turkey Blocks identified nationwide slowing of social media services in the aftermath of the blasts, described by rights group Human Rights Watch as an “extrajudicial” measure to restrict independent media coverage of the incident.

The bombs appeared to target a “Labour, Peace and Democracy” rally organised by the Confederation of Progressive Trade Unions of Turkey (DİSK), the Union of Chambers of Turkish Engineers and Architects (TMMOB), the Peoples’ Democratic Party (HDP), the Turkish Medical Association (TTB) and the Confederation of Public Workers’ Unions (KESK).

Above: Logo of DİSK, the confederation of revolutionary workers’ unions (Devrimci İşçi Sendikaları Konfederasyonu)

Above: Logo of the Union of Chambers of Turkish Engineers and Architects

Above: Logo of the Confederation of Public Employees’ Unions (Kamu Emekçileri Sendikaları Konfederasyonu)

The peace march was held to protest against the growing conflict between the Turkish Armed Forces and the PKK.

The incident occurred 21 days before the scheduled 1 November General Election.

The governing AKP, the main opposition CHP and the opposition MHP condemned the attack and called it an attempt to cause division within Turkey.

CHP and MHP leaders heavily criticized the government for the security failure, whereas HDP directly blamed the AKP government for the bombings.

Various political parties ended up cancelling their election campaigns while three days of national mourning were declared by Prime Minister Ahmet Davutoğlu.

Above: Ahmet Davutoğlu (Turkish Prime Minister: 2014 – 2016)

No organization has ever claimed responsibility for the attack.

The Ankara Attorney General stated that they were investigating the possibility of two cases of suicide bombings.

On 19 October, one of the two suicide bombers was officially identified as the younger brother of the perpetrator of the Suruç bombing.

Both brothers had suspected links to ISIL and the ISIL-affiliated Dokumacilar group.

Above: 2015 Ankara bombing: Victims’ names

On 8 January 2016, Turkish forces at Iraq’s Bashiq camp killed 17 ISIL militants when the group attacked the camp with rocket fire and assault rifles .

This was the third attack by ISIL on the Turkish base.

Turkey has been training an armed anti-ISIL Sunni group in the camp.

Above: Bashiqa, Iraq

On 12 January 2016, an ISIL suicide bomber committed the Istanbul bombings in Istanbul’s historic Sultanahmet Square, killing 12 people.

All of the victims killed were foreign citizens (11 Germans, 1 Peruvian).

In response to the bombing, the Turkish Army commenced tank and artillery strikes on ISIL positions in Syria and Iraq.

Turkish authorities estimate that these 48 hours of shelling killed nearly 200 ISIL fighters.

Above: Flowers and flags of Turkey and Germany near Obelisk of Theodosius, Istanbul, Turkey, January 2016

On 19 March 2016, a second ISIL suicide bombing took place in Istanbul’s Beyoğlu district.

The attack killed four and wounded 36 people.

On 22 March 2016, the Turkish Interior Minister said that the bomber had links with ISIL.

Above: Demirören Shopping Mall in Istiklal Avenue, Beyoğlu, İstanbul, near which the bombing took place

Since the 2016 Turkish coup attempt and the purges that followed, political discourse, media, public speech as well as academic and judiciary voices are heavily monitored, with nearly no possible opposition to governmental discourse.

On 15 July 2016, a faction within the Turkish Armed Forces, organized as the Peace at Home Council, attempted a coup d’état against state institutions, including the government and President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan. 

They attempted to seize control of several places in Ankara, Istanbul, Marmaris and elsewhere, such as the Asian side entrance of the Bosphorus Bridge, but failed to do so after forces loyal to the state defeated them.

Above: 15 July Martyrs’ Monument at the Presidential Complex, Ankara, Turkey

The Council cited an erosion of secularism, elimination of democratic rule, disregard for human rights, and Turkey’s loss of credibility in the international arena as reasons for the coup.

The government said the coup leaders were linked to the Gülen movement, which is designated as a terrorist organization by the Republic of Turkey and led by Fethullah Gülen, a Turkish businessman and scholar who lives in Pennsylvania.

The Turkish government alleged that Gülen was behind the coup (which Gülen denied) and that the US was harboring him.

Above: Fethullah Gülen condemned the coup attempt and denied any role in it.

The Gülen movement (Gülen hareketi), referred to by its participants as Hizmet (“service“) or Cemaat (“community“) and since 2016 by the Government of Turkey as FETÖ (“Fethullah Terrorist Organization“/ Fethullahçı Terör Örgütü), is an Islamist fraternal fmovement led by Fethullah Gülen, a Muslim preacher who has lived in the US since 1999.

The movement is designated as a terrorist organization by Turkey, Pakistan, Northern Cyprus and the Gulf Cooperation Council.

However, the Gülen movement is not recognized as a terrorist organization by the EU, the US, the UK, Finland and Sweden.

Owing to the outlawed status of the Gülen movement in Turkey, some observers refer to the movement’s volunteers who are Turkish Muslims as effectively a subsect of Sunni Islam.

A US-based umbrella foundation which is affiliated with the movement is the Alliance for Shared Values.

The movement has attracted supporters and drawn the attention of critics in Turkey, Central Asia, and other parts of the world.

It is active in education and operates private schools and universities in over 180 countries.

It has initiated forums for interfaith dialogue.

It has substantial investments in media, finance and health clinics.

Despite its teachings which are stated conservative in Turkey, some have praised the movement as a pacifist, modern-oriented version of Islam, and an alternative to more extreme schools of Islam.

But it has also been reported of having a “cultish hierarchy” and of being a secretive Islamic sect.

The Gülen movement is a former ally of the AKP.

When the AKP came to power  in 2002 the two formed, despite their differences, a tactical alliance against military tutelage and the Turkish secular elite.

It was through this alliance that the AKP had accomplished an unprecedented feat in Turkish republican history by securing national electoral victories sufficient to form three consecutive majority governments in 2002, 2007 and 2011.

The Gülen movement gained influence on the Turkish police force and the judiciary during its alliance with conservative President Erdoğan, which saw hundreds of Gülen supporters appointed to positions within the Turkish government.

With only slight exaggeration, the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) as well as the government it has led could be termed a coalition of religious orders.

The Gülen movement stayed away from electoral politics, focusing instead on increasing its presence in the state bureaucracy.

The Hizmet movement’s stated success in this regard would initially make it Erdoğan’s main partner, but also his eventual nemesis.

Once the old establishment was defeated, disagreements emerged between the AKP and the Gülen movement.

The first breaking point was the MIT Crisis of February 2012, it was also interpreted as a power struggle between pro-Gülen police and judiciary and the AKP.

Above: Seal of the Turkish National Intelligence Organization

In March 2011, seven Turkish journalists were arrested, including Amet Şık, who had been writing a book, Imamin Ordusu (The Imam’s Army), which states that the Gülen movement has infiltrated the country’s security forces (including the MIT).

As Şık was taken into police custody, he shouted:

Whoever touches the movement gets burned!

Upon his arrest, drafts of the book were confiscated and its possession was banned.

In a reply, Abdullah Bozkurt, from the Gülen movement newspaper Today’s Zaman, said Ahmet Şık was not being an investigative journalist conducting “independent research“, but was hatching “a plot designed and put into action by the terrorist network itself“.

After the 2013 corruption investigations in Turkey into stated corrupt practices by several bureaucrats, ministers, mayors, and family members of the ruling AKP of Turkey was uncovered, President Erdoğan blamed the movement for initiating the investigations as a result of a break in previously friendly relations.

The 2013 corruption scandal in Turkey (or the 17-25 December Corruption and Bribery Operation) was a criminal investigation that involved several key people in the Turkish government.

All of the 52 people detained on 17 December were connected in various ways with the ruling AKP.

Prosecutors accused 14 people – including Suleyman Aslan (the director of state-owned Halkbank), Iranian businessman Reza Zarrab, and several family members of cabinet ministers – of bribery, corruption, fraud, money laundering and gold smuggling.

A

t the heart of the scandal was an alleged “gas for gold” scheme with Iran involving Aslan, who had US$4.5 million in cash stored in shoeboxes in his home, and Zarrab, who was involved in about US$9.6 billion of gold trading in 2012.

Both men were arrested.

The scheme started after Turkish government officials found a loophole in the US sanctions against Iran that allowed them to access Iranian oil and gas.

The Turks exported some US$13 billion of gold to Iran directly, or through the United Arab Emirates (UAE), between March 2012 and July 2013.

Above: Flag of the UAE

In return, the Turks received Iranian natural gas and oil.

The transactions were carried out through the Turkish state-owned bank, Halkbank.

In January 2013, the Obama administration decided to close this loophole but instead of immediately charging Halkbank, the US government allowed its gold trading activities to continue until July 2013, because Turkey was an important ally regarding the American-led intervention in the Syrian Civil War and the US had been working on a nuclear deal with Iran.

Above: Flag of Iran

President Erdoğan said Gülen attempted to overthrow the Turkish government through a judicial coup by the use of corruption investigations and seized the group-owned newspaper (Zaman (“time“) — one of the most circulated newspapers in Turkey before the seizure) and several companies that have ties with the group.

Events surrounding the coup attempt and the purges in its aftermath reflect a complex power struggle between Islamist elites in Turkey.

During the coup attempt, over 300 people were killed and more than 2,100 were injured.

Many government buildings, including the Turkish Parliament and the Presidential Palace, were bombed from the air. 

Mass arrests followed, with at least 40,000 detained, including at least 10,000 soldiers and, for reasons that remain unclear, 2,745 judges. 

15,000 education staff were also suspended and the licenses of 21,000 teachers working at private institutions were revoked after the government stated they were loyal to Gülen.

More than 77,000 people have been arrested and over 160,000 fired from their jobs, on reports of connections to Gülen.

In March 2017, Germany’s intelligence chief said Germany was unconvinced by Erdoğan’s statement that Gülen was behind the failed coup attempt.

The same month, the British Parliament’s Foreign Affairs Select Committee said some Gulenists were involved in the coup d’état attempt but found no hard evidence that Fethullah Gülen masterminded the failed coup and found no evidence to justify the UK designating the Gülen movement as aterrorist organization“.

Above: Citizens protesting the coup attempt in Kizilay Square, Ankara, Turkey

Turkey is heading toward its 2023 Turkish General Election, which is expected to be a major challenge for the AKP party due to economic slow down and very high inflation.

In the past decade, Erdoğan and the AKP government used anti-PKK, security, martial rhetoric and external operations to raise Turkish nationalist votes before elections.

In between, security concerns and anti-terrorism laws have been used to repress and neutralize elected oppositions.

Opposition HDP elected officials are systematically probed, arrested, dismissed based on tenuous accusations, to be then replaced by AKP loyalists.

Accusation by association due to alliances with HDP party officials (and implied links to PKK terrorism) is also used against other opposition leaders. 

CHP Mayor of Istanbul Ekrem İmamoğlu is indicted for such political alliance, with persecutors calling to evict him from politics and the 2023 Turkish General Election.

The votes of the persecuted HDP party, a pro-Kurdish party accused by Erdoğan and the AKP to be linked with the PKK, are necessary to any opposition bloc wanting to conquer power.

More recently, and since May 2022, Recep Tayyip Erdoğan and his government have called for new external ground operations toward autonomous territories in Syria and ramped up attacks on the area.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Turkish voters need to look first at what the candidates have achieved and only then at what the candidates have promised.

Turkish people are avid media consumers, but democracy only works when it is accompanied by a free press, which is far harder than simply reporting the news allowed by the government and slanting its message in favour of the government.

Turkey needs investigative journalism which uncovers facts and wrongdoing without fear of being labelled traitorous or arrested for voicing criticism of the government.

Turkey needs explanatory journalism that describes the bigger picture, providing background information and explanation.

Both investigative and explanatory journalism are difficult and expensive and demand skill on the part of both the news makers and the news readers.

Neither are well served by the current news formats or the current political climate.

If Turks were the last of the Ottoman ethnicities to get their own nation-states, the Kurds arrived at history’s party too late.

There are anywhere between 28 and 35 million Kurds, inhabiting a region that straddles Turkey, Iran, Iraq and Syria, with smaller populations elsewhere, including Armenia, Azerbaijan and Lebanon.

This geographic diversity suggests that Kurdish identity is shaped by a variety of competing forces and that ethnic solidarity with fellow Kurds across borders is often overshadowed by the concerns and politics in which Kurds actually find themselves.

In Turkey, Kurds form a majority in 15 provinces in the southeast and east of the country, with the metropolitan city of Diyarbakir being the unofficial capital of the Kurdish region.

There is also a large diaspora both in Western Europe and in coastal cities like Adana and Izmir.

Istanbul, on the diametrically opposite side of the country from Diyarbakir, is almost certainly the largest Kurdish city in the world in the way that New York City is home to the largest number of Jews.

The CIA Fact Book estimates that Kurds make up 18% of Turkey’s population.

Above: Flag of Kurdistan

It is fair to say that much of the rest of Turkey looks at Kurdish society through a glass darkly and sees Kurdish tribal organization as imposing primitive loyalties and archaic kinship relations.

More useful would be to think of tribes as alliances that negotiate with the political mainstream.

Likewise, radical Kurdish politics draws from inequalities within Kurdish society and not simply from the denial of Kurdish identity.

For all its claims to be a melting pot of civilization and a mosaic of different cultures, Turkey has been continually blindsided by the problem of accommodating its own ethnic diversity.

A principal reason lies in the foundation of the Turkish Republic and the perceived need to impose a new national identity on a war-stricken nation.

Above: Flag of Turkey

Kurds posed an obvious challenge.

First, because they formed a distinct and regionally concentrated linguistic group that was not Turkish, but also because they were overwhelmingly Muslim and therefore not an “anomalous minority” as defined by the Treaty of Lausanne.

Above: Palais de Rumine, Lausanne, Canton Vaud, Switzerland – where the Treaty of Lausanne was signed on 24 July 1923, delimiting the boundaries of Greece, Bulgaria and Turkey.

Though Kurds were readily recruited to fight the War of Independence, commanders of Kurdish irregulars felt betrayed by the very secular, highly centralized and very Turkish character of the new state.

Above: Images of the Turkish War of Independence (1919 – 1923)

There was a major uprising in 1925, which drew resentment against the abolition of the Caliphate (632 – 1924) as much as it did from a nascent Kurdish nationalism.

The caliphate system was abolished in Turkey in 1924 during the secularization of Turkey as part of Atatürk’s reforms.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881 – 1938)

That rebellion became reason and pretext to reinforce the authoritarian character of the regime in the rest of Turkey.

From the beginning of the Republic, the Kurdish issue, and specifically fear of Kurdish secession, has become inextricably linked to the problems of Turkish democratization and of the reliance on forms of repression to keep society under control.

Turkish officialdom has historically pursued a policy of assimilation, using both carrot and stick.

Above: (in orange) Kurdistan of Turkey

What lies at the heart of Turkey’s Kurdish problem?

Even to ask this question gets on some Turkish nerves.

A still widely-held view is that the Kurdish problem is simply one of terrorism or of troublemakers trying to scratch an itch where none exists.

The issue centers on the guerilla campaign conducted by the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK).

The conflict is estimated to have cost over 40,000 lives, including civilians, PKK members and Turkish soldiers.

The PKK was the product of a vicious process of natural selection after all other channels of dissent were eliminated.

The events of 9/11 in America created some sympathy for Turkey’s own longstanding fight with terrorism.

The harsh measures adopted by Western states to fight al-Qaeda appeared to confirm a long-cherished Turkish maxim:

National security requires the sacrifice of liberties.

Turkish concern about its own territorial integrity translates into a concern that its neighbours not set a dangerous example by allowing political autonomy for their own Kurdish populations.

Turks ask themselves why the US, so determined to fight terrorism, tolerates the existence of Kurdish bases.

There is a widely-held belief in Turkey that Western powers use Kurdish insurrection to keep Turkey weak.

These views persist despite an agreement under which the Pentagon makes real-time intelligence available to the Turkish military in order to track PKK fighters infiltrating into Turkey.

Washington also committed itself to providing Turkish forces with drones and other anti-insurgency hardware.

Turkish politicians often portray PKK attacks not as part of some intractable domestic problems but as “contracted” by outside powers.

At the same time they are only too aware that the Kurdish issue affects Turkish ambitions to play the role of a stabilizing power in the Middle East.

Peace at home, peace in the world” was Atatürk’s much-quoted mission statement of Turkish foreign policy.

That vision will flounder if Turkey cannot come to terms with a problem in its own backyard.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

Is there a Kurdish solution?

What do Kurds in Turkey want?

Full cultural rights?

A process of truth and reconcilation?

Devolution?

Simply the prospect of prosperity?

Hardened Turkish nationalists believe that any concession to Kurdish identity will lead to policial secession.

Having defined the fight with the PKK for so long as a struggle against separatism, they take for granted that separatism must be the enemy.

On the other hand, not even the PKK openly calls for an independent state.

They have declared its only ambition is to democratize Turkish society.

Did the PKK bomb Istanbul on Sunday?

They say they didn’t.

Is anyone surprised that they would nonetheless be blamed?

No one.

For the PKK is easy to blame, easy to hate, considering their past violence.

But could the PKK also be convenient for creating a perceived threat that only the powers-that-be can save us from?

Rahm Israel Emanuel is an American politician and diplomat who is the current US Ambassador to Japan.

A member of the Democratic Party, he previously served two terms as the 55th Mayor of Chicago (2011 – 2019) and the 23rd White House Chief of Staff (2009 – 2010), and served three terms in the US House of Representatives, representing Illinois (2003 – 2009).

Above: US Ambassador Rahm Emanuel

On his #ChiStories podcast of 19 October 2018, he tweeted:

“My guest on #ChiStories podcast is @BeschlossDC (Michael Beschloss), whose newest book is Presidents of War.

Go behind the phrase “Never let a crisis go to waste” as we dissect how US Presidents approached their role as Commander-in-Chief in times of war.”

According to Freakonomics blog (http://www.freakonomics.com) commentator TJ Hessmon:

“The “political” use of the phrase “Never let a good crisis go to waste.” is based upon the points made in Saul Alinsky’s Rules for Radicals, page 89, in the section marked “Communication“:

In the arena of action, a threat or a crisis becomes almost a precondition to communication.”

Taking advantage of any crisis whether real or manufactured is a common tool used by those waging war.

When used in this way, crisis, and its extreme amplification as “thinking and acting as a group“, is no longer a tactic of protest but instead a tactic of ideological subversion, which is used to bring about totalitarian government control, via Socialism or Communism.

In other words, the leader forms groups along the lines of a crisis and uses that crisis to force the need for control.

If the crisis is allowed to continue (as we observed often during the last presidential administration) people will cry out to government, for relief from the result of the crisis, which can lead to property destruction and even loss of life and limb.

The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) is one example of how crisis (terrorism) was used to create a police state at American airports, when it was known that there are other more effective tactics used by other nations to avoid airliner incidents.”

I am reminded of the thinking of Niccolò Machiavelli (1469 – 1527):

A prince is tolerated when his service is seen to be indispensable.

Above: Italian writer (The Prince) Niccolò Machiavelli

I am not suggesting that the incumbent administration in Turkey was in any way responsible for bombings and coups that have taken place during its term in office, but I wonder how useful tragedies, such as Sunday’s Istanbul explosion, prove to be to justify tightening its grip on power.

If the press is to be believed – Terrorism only works thanks to the media. – one woman with a plastic bag of explosives has changed Turkish society forever.

Terrorists’ true weapon is not the bomb, but the fear triggered by the bomb.

The actual threat is relatively small, but the perceived threat is immense.

This balancing act is made possible by the news media.

Since 2001, terrorists have killed on average 50 people per year within the European Union.

By comparison, 80,000 EU citizens die each year in traffic accidents and 60,000 by suicide.

Above: Flag of the European Union

The risk of being killed by a terrorist is astronomically smaller than the risk of being killed by your own hand.

Paradoxically, the news makes it seem like it is the other way around.

Above: Bad news“, Luci Gutiérrez, New Yorker cartoon, 16 July 2018

A terrorist’s primary goal is not to kill people.

Their goals are strategic:

They are seeking political change.

They want people to pay attention to their demands:

Attention they receive in the form of news and the ensuing backlash.

For political scientist Martha Crenshaw at Stanford University, terrorists are entirely rational actors:

Terrorism is a logical choice when the power ratio of government to challenger is high.

Above: Seal of Stanford University, Stanford, California, USA

In other words, terrorists themselves are powerless.

The only halfway promising method of forcing political change is to sow fear and chaos.

And for that they need the news media.

Israeli historian Yuval Noah Harari has remarked:

Terrorists are masters of mind control.

They kill very few people, but nevertheless manage to terrify billions and rattle huge political structures, such as the EU and the US.

The theatre of terror cannot succeed without publicity.

Unfortunately, the media all too often provide this publicity for free.

It obsessively reports terror attacks and greatly inflates their danger, because reports on terrorism sell newspapers much better than reports on diabetes or air pollution.

Above: Yuval Noah Harari

The press focuses on the fear a bomb creates, not on the lives the bomb devastates, nor does it provide a meaningful context as to why someone would commit such a horrific act.

We will never know who the dead were and we can only speculate as to who they might have become.

We will never learn of the lives affected by the loss of those who are now mere memories.

We will never learn of the extent of the injuries that those struck down by the explosion and how their lives, physically and/or psychologically, have been transformed forever.

But you can’t live in fear.

You can’t let fear of dying keep you from living.

What is the point of living if you don’t feel alive?

I will return to Istanbul.

I will walk down Istiklal Avenue and shop once again.

All the bomber showed me was their ability to kill.

Anyone can destroy.

What the world needs is those who can build.

Let us build bridges not walls.

Let us make love not war.

Nothing to fear but fear itself.

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945) (US President: 1933 – 1945)

Swiss author and philosopher Rolf Dobelli explains it this way:

Above: Rolf Dobelli

Gersau is a village in the middle of Switzerland, idyllically situated on Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Lucerne):

A tiny picturesque place with 2,000 inhabitants – smaller than the Municipality I spring from in Canada (Brownsburg-Chatham) and larger than the Swiss hamlet of Landschlacht from whence the journey to Mürren begins.

For centuries Gersau was an independent republic.

The village wanted no part in the Swiss Federation and for 300 years it was given free rein.

Only when Napoleon invaded Switzerland in 1798 was its independence revoked.

When the French troops withdrew, the village redeclared independence – but this only lasted four years.

Today, Gersau is part of Switzerland.

Above: Gersau, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

Let’s try a thought experiment.

Imagine you are a Gersau villager and you want to regain independence.

You feel obliged by the long historic tradition of independence.

Maybe you feel that you have been unjustly treated by the rest of Switzerland.

What options do you have to make people listen to your demands?

You could gather like-minded compatriots and pass a resolution at a community meeting.

But nobody would take you seriously.

Certainly not outside the village.

You could write a blog – which would never be read.

You could employ a PR firm, but that, too, would come to nothing.

Or you could set off a bomb outside Parliament in Bern.

With a giant placard in the background – Free Gersau! – you would capture national and international attention within minutes.

Of course, everybody would condemn your behaviour in the strongest terms, but….

You would spark a debate.

Above: Bundeshaus (Federal Palace of Switzerland), Bern, Switzerland

Now imagine the press did not exist.

What then?

The bomb explodes.

Windows shatter.

Passers-by are injured.

The attack is discussed at the market and down the pub.

Outside Bern, however, interest would fizzle.

Next day the square outside Parliament would look the same as before.

You would have accomplished nothing.

Above: Bern, Switzerland

It strikes me as curious that the PKK are held responsible and yet they themselves are reluctant to claim responsibility.

For if the point of a terrorist attack is to garner attention than the PKK denial suggests to me that they are a convenient scapegoat to justify increased control by the powers-that-be.

From what little has been revealed about the explosion – as evidenced by the massive number of people arrested after the incident – is that it is unclear to the investigation who the real perpetrators are or what their motive might be.

Perhaps it is as suggested by Alfred Pennyworth (Michael Caine) in the movie The Dark Knight:

Some people simply want to watch the world burn.

Or it may be that the generators underlying this event are simply beyond our ken, because the processes that shape cultural, intellectual, economic, military, political and environment events are too invisible, too complex, too non-linear, too hard for our brains to digest.

Who can truly comprehend another person’s individual mind and the path that led them to where they are today?

Who can truly comprehend the mind of someone who would deliberately kill innocents or allow innocents to be killed?

I certainly don’t claim to do so.

Perhaps living far from public notice makes us less vulnerable?

Maybe.

But it was the lives of ordinary people that were the victims of forces beyond their ken and of a mindset beyond anyone’s comprehension.

All that they were, all that they might have been, erased by a threat seemingly out of Nowhere.

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Wednesday 5 January 2022

Let us return to Landschlacht / Münsterlingen and consider something else.

Each town across the globe searches for something to brag about, something that lends to itself a sense of worth, a sense of accomplishment, a reason for pride.

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Consider Landschlacht.

What makes it special?

I have mentioned its lake location and its old chapel.

I have shown half-timbered buildings.

In a previous post, I mentioned how street lights are extinguished after midnight resulting in a light-pollution-free starry night sky.

Above: Rotes Haus Restaurant, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Consider Münsterlingen.

What makes it special?

We may speak of its hospital and its psychiatric clinic, the Abbey and its ceremony of carrying a wooden head across the frozen Lake.

Above: Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Consider Brownsburg-Chatham, where I spent my childhood.

What makes it special?

We may talk of its being settled by American Loyalists and named after English Prime Minister William Pitt, 1st Earl of Chatham (1708 – 1778) and English Major George Brown.

Above: William Pitt the Elder (Prime Minister of Great Britain: 1766 – 1768)

We may speak of its farms and its explosives production.

Above: Brownsburg, Argenteuil County, Québec, Canada

But beyond superficialities such as these:

What makes a place unique is its people.

Landschlacht, Brownsburg and – yes, to folks outside Turkey – Eskişehir.

Beyond the Canton of Thurgau no one knows (or cares) where Landschlacht is.

Beyond Argenteuil County a person would be hard pressed to tell where in Canada is Brownsburg.

Tourist guides rarely mention Eskişehir. – I had not heard of the place before I received a job offer to work here.

But what makes these Nowhere places in the middle of Somewhere Else special are its people.

Certainly the world notices a place’s personalities, those rare individuals that have managed to attract attention to themselves.

I have mentioned some of Münsterlingen’s personalities above.

I mention now that Brownsburg-Chatham’s claim to fame is that it was home to the late Montréal Canadiens ice hockey defenseman Gilles Lupien (1954 – 2021).

Above: Gilles Lupien

In previous posts I have spoken of Eskişehir being better known for its universities, its meerschaum pipes, and that it was the place where Turkey’s first automobile, first aviation industry and the first NATO tactical air force HQ in Turkey occurred, more than any personalities the world beyond Turkey might have ever heard of.

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Turkey

Yet Brownsburg, Landschlacht and Eskişehir – places few folks beyond their borders know – are important to me for the people I have known therein.

Brownsburg-Chatham and the neighbouring municipalities of Grenville and Lachute are populated with the memories of those I have known and loved from my childhood and youth.

Landschlacht is still the home of my wife, the love and bane of my existence.

Because of her, a piece of my heart remains there.

Eskişehir is where I now work and live and the people with whom I regularly meet form the nucleus of the joy of life I presently enjoy.

When I think of Landschlacht, I invariably think of Canadian writer Stephen Leacock’s Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town, and I think of Landschlacht as a kind of Swiss Mariposa.

At least to me.

Above: Stephen Leacock (1869 – 1944)

“I don’t know whether you know Mariposa.

If not, it is of no consequence, for if you know Canada at all, you are probably well acquainted with a dozen towns just like it.

Above: Flag of Canada

There it lies in the sunlight, sloping up from the little lake that spreads out at the foot of the hillside on which the town is built.

Above: Orillia, Simcoe County, Ontario – Inspiration of Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town

There is a wharf beside the lake, and lying alongside of it a steamer that is tied to the wharf with two ropes of about the same size as they use on the Lusitania.

Above: RMS Lusitania (1904 – 1915)

The steamer goes nowhere in particular, for the lake is landlocked and there is no navigation for the Mariposa Belle except to “run trips” on the first of July and the Queen’s Birthday, and to take excursions of the Knights of Pythias and the Sons of Temperance to and from the Local Option Townships.

In point of geography the lake is called Lake Wissanotti and the river running out of it the Ossawippi, just as the main street of Mariposa is called Missinaba Street and the county Missinaba County.

But these names do not really matter.

Nobody uses them.

People simply speak of the “lake” and the “river” and the “main street“, much in the same way as they always call the Continental Hotel, “Pete Robinson’s” and the Pharmaceutical Hall, “Eliot’s Drug Store“.

But I suppose this is just the same in every one else’s town as in mine, so I need lay no stress on it.

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616) quote from Romeo and Juliet

The town, I say, has one broad street that runs up from the lake, commonly called the Main Street.

There is no doubt about its width.

When Mariposa was laid out there was none of that shortsightedness which is seen in the cramped dimensions of Wall Street and Piccadilly.

Above: Street sign, New York City, New York, USA

Above: Piccadilly Circus, London, England

Missinaba Street is so wide that if you were to roll Jeff Thorpe’s barber shop over on its face it wouldn’t reach half way across.

Up and down the Main Street are telegraph poles of cedar of colossal thickness, standing at a variety of angles and carrying rather more wires than are commonly seen at a transatlantic cable station.

On the Main Street itself are a number of buildings of extraordinary importance — Smith’s Hotel and the Continental and the Mariposa House, and the two banks (the Commercial and the Exchange), to say nothing of McCarthy’s Block (erected in 1878), and Glover’s Hardware Store with the Oddfellows’ Hall above it.

Then on the “cross” street that intersects Missinaba Street at the main corner there is the Post Office and the Fire Hall and the Young Men’s Christian Association and the office of the Mariposa Newspacket

In fact, to the eye of discernment a perfect jostle of public institutions comparable only to Threadneedle Street or Lower Broadway.

On all the side streets there are maple trees and broad sidewalks, trim gardens with upright calla lilies, houses with verandahs, which are here and there being replaced by residences with piazzas.

To the careless eye the scene on the Main Street of a summer afternoon is one of deep and unbroken peace.

The empty street sleeps in the sunshine.

There is a horse and buggy tied to the hitching post in front of Glover’s hardware store.

There is, usually and commonly, the burly figure of Mr. Smith, proprietor of Smith’s Hotel, standing in his chequered waistcoat on the steps of his hostelry, and perhaps, further up the street, Lawyer Macartney going for his afternoon mail, or the Rev. Mr. Drone, the Rural Dean of the Church of England Church, going home to get his fishing rod after a mothers’ auxiliary meeting.

But this quiet is mere appearance.

In reality, and to those who know it, the place is a perfect hive of activity.

Why, at Netley’s butcher shop (established in 1882) there are no less than four men working on the sausage machines in the basement.

At the Newspacket office there are as many more job-printing.

There is a long distance telephone with four distracting girls on high stools wearing steel caps and talking incessantly.

In the offices in McCarthy’s Block are dentists and lawyers with their coats off, ready to work at any moment.

And from the big factory down beside the lake where the railroad siding is, you may hear all through the hours of the summer afternoon the long-drawn music of the running saw.

Busy —

Well, I should think so!

Ask any of its inhabitants if Mariposa isn’t a busy, hustling, thriving town.

Ask Mullins, the manager of the Exchange Bank, who comes hustling over to his office from the Mariposa House every day at 10.30 and has scarcely time all morning to go out and take a drink with the manager of the Commercial.

Or ask —

Well, for the matter of that, ask any of them if they ever knew a more rushing go-ahead town than Mariposa.

Of course if you come to the place fresh from New York, you are deceived.

Your standard of vision is all astray.

You do think the place is quiet.

You do imagine that Mr. Smith is asleep merely because he closes his eyes as he stands.

But live in Mariposa for six months or a year and then you will begin to understand it better.

The buildings get higher and higher.

The Mariposa House grows more and more luxurious.

McCarthy’s Block towers to the sky.

The buses roar and hum to the station.

The trains shriek.

The traffic multiplies.

The people move faster and faster.

A dense crowd swirls to and fro in the Post Office and the Five and Ten Cent Store —

And amusements!

Well, now!

Lacrosse, baseball, excursions, dances, the Fireman’s Ball every winter and the Catholic picnic every summer; and music — the town band in the park every Wednesday evening, and the Oddfellows’ brass band on the street every other Friday, the Mariposa Quartette, the Salvation Army —

Why, after a few months’ residence you begin to realize that the place is a mere mad round of gaiety.”

Meet the local people, if you can, to get a sense of a place.

Any opportunity to see how the locals live provides a person with invaluable background.

It is within family circles that you really grasp people’s relationships with one another, their relationship to their government, and their relationship to the rest of the world.

The food they serve you is important in more ways than your observation of the kind of food it is.

How it is served is a clue to the people’s lifestyle, as is who is eating?

Do the people speak freely?

Where do they play?

What do they play?

How do they play?

What do they eat?

Where do they eat?

Picnic in the park.

Go to the grocery store.

Go to the outdoor markets.

Stop in at the bakery and the butcher shop.

Soak up local colour at the laundromats.

Check out the department stores.

Visit the speciality shops, the bazaars, the suqs, the flea markets.

Get your haircut.

Join the congregation.

Attend an event and observe the crowd.

Welcome chance meetings.

Encourage chance encounters.

Get lost.

Listen to people’s recommendations.

Go to the bookstore.

Buy local publications.

The more people you talk to, the better feel you get for the place, the more you will learn about it and the more you will know the place.

And this is the great sadness I have with travelling with others.

Your world is limited to the circle wherein you travel.

To borrow from W.H. Auden’s Funeral Blues:

They become your North, your South, your East and West,

The journey itself and the following rest,

Your noon, your midnight, your talk, your song


You thought you were travelling, but you were wrong.

Above: Wystan Hugh Auden (1907 – 1973)

The best I can do to give a sense of the places I have visited in the company of others is to write what I have learned in as personable a way as I can, minus the encounters with locals that might have lent the place a connected context to the lives of my readers.

No, truth be told, the wife and I are tourists.

We will get in our car, drive quickly to our chosen destination, and check into a hotel – the nucleus of our new universe.

I do not condemn tourism, but it is not an exposure to life but rather an escape from it.

We descend three flights of stairs laden with luggage.

Bags tossed in the back of the car, Google Maps itinerary in hand (most scenic route if possible), GPS programmed nonetheless.

We are off on another “adventure“.

She is the love of my life, the bane of my existence.

The journey will be Heaven.

The journey will be Hell.

Fasten your seatbelt.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Mortimer J. Adler and Charles van Doren, How to Read a Book / Saul D. Alinsky, Rules for Radicals / W. H. Auden, “Funeral Blues” / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Charles Dickens, Great Expectations / Charles Dickens, The Pickwick Papers / Charles Dickens, The Uncommercial Traveller / Rolf Dobelli, Stop Reading the News / Stephen J. Dubner, “Quotes Uncovered: Who Said No Crisis Should Go to Waste?“, http://www.freakonomics.com, 13 August 2009 /Andrew Finkel, Turkey: What Everyone Needs to Know / Mark Hertsgaard, The Eagle’s Shadow: Why America Fascinates and Infuriates the World / Stephen Leacock, Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town / Luke McKernan, “Walking with Charles Dickens“, http://www.lukemckernan.com / Ann Morgan, Reading the World / Kenny Rogers, “The Gambler” / Isil Sariyuce, Sophie Tanno and Holly Yan, “Suspect in custody in Istanbul blast that killed 6 and injured 81, officials say“, http://www.cnn.com, 13 November 2022 / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Louise Purwin Zobel, The Travel Writer’s Handbook

Portrait of the artist

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Monday 24 January 2022

I read of Turkey and marvel.

Europe’s busiest airport shut down in Istanbul while schools and vaccination centres closed in Athens as a rare snowstorm blanketed swathes of the eastern Mediterranean region, causing blackouts and traffic havoc.

The work to clean the runway and taxiways continues at Istanbul Airport, where all flights were stopped until 18.00 due to heavy snowfall in Istanbul, Turkey

The closure of Istanbul Airport, where the roof of one of the cargo terminals collapsed under the heavy snow, causing no injuries, grounded flights stretching from the Middle East and Africa to Europe and Asia on Monday.

The work to clean the runway and taxiways continues, at Istanbul Airport, where all flights were stopped until 18.00 due to heavy snowfall in Istanbul, Turkiye

Travel officials told AFP news agency it marked the gleaming glass-and-steel structure’s first shutdown since it replaced Istanbul’s old Atatürk Airport as the new hub for Turkish Airlines in 2019.

Agence France-Presse Logo.svg
Above: Agence France Presse logo

Due to adverse conditions, all flights at Istanbul Airport have been temporarily stopped for flight safety,” the airport said in a statement on Twitter.

Twitter-logo.svg
Above: Twitter logo

The shutdown dealt a major headache to the 16 million residents of Turkey’s largest city, where cars ploughed into each other skidding down steep, sleet-covered streets and highways turned into parking lots.

The Istanbul governor’s office warned drivers they would not be able to enter the city from Thrace, a region stretching across the European part of Turkey to its western border with Bulgaria and Greece.

Shopping malls closed early, food delivery services shut down and the city’s iconic “simit” bagel stalls stood empty because suppliers could not make their way through the snow.

Snowstorm brings much of Turkey and Greece to a halt | News | DW |  24.01.2022

Traffic officials also closed major roads across large parts of central and southeastern Turkey, a mountainous region first hit by a snowstorm last week.

Snowfall, blizzards bear down on Turkey, shut down roads | Daily Sabah

Istanbul Airport serviced more than 37 million passengers last year, becoming one of the word’s most important air hubs.

But critics of President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan had long questioned his decision to place the airport on a remote patch along the Black Sea coast that is often covered with fog in the winter.

Recep Tayyip Erdoğan 2021.jpg
Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Turkish Airlines said it was suspending all Istanbul Airport flights until at least 4am (01:00 GMT) on Tuesday.

Turkey: Airport warehouse roof collapses in snowstorm - BBC News

A few light taps upon the pane made him turn to the window.

It had begun to snow again.

He watched sleepily the flakes, silver and dark, falling obliquely against the lamplight.

The time had come for him to set out on his journey westward.

Yes, the newspapers were right:

Snow was general all over Ireland.

It was falling on every part of the dark central plain, on the treeless hills, falling softly upon the Bog of Allen and, farther westward, softly falling into the dark mutinous Shannon waves.

It was falling, too, upon every part of the lonely churchyard on the hill where Michael Furey lay buried.

It lay thickly drifted on the crooked crosses and headstones, on the spears of the little gate, on the barren thorns.

His soul swooned slowly as he heard the snow falling faintly through the universe and faintly falling, like the descent of their last end, upon all the living and the dead.

James Joyce, Dubliners

Joyce - Dubliners, 1914 - 3690390 F.jpg

Five times since my return to Switzerland have I travelled to St. Gallen and once more I anticipate visiting this city before I leave, God willing, on 15 February.

I have seen colleagues from my Starbucks days and it was good, but there is within me a sense of apartness, of alienation.

A view of St. Gallen
Above: St. Gallen, Switzerland

Stephen watched the three glasses being raised from the counter as his father and his two cronies drank to the memory of their past.

An abyss of fortune or of temperament sundered him from them. 

His mind seemed older than theirs:

It shone coldly on their strifes and happiness and regrets like a moon upon a younger Earth.

No life or youth stirred in him as it had stirred in them.

He had known neither the pleasure of companionship with others nor the vigour of rude male health nor filial piety.

Nothing stirred within his soul but a cold and cruel and loveless lust.

His childhood was dead or lost and with it his soul capable of simple joys.

He was drifting amid life like the barren shell of the Moon.

Art thou pale for weariness
Of climbing Heaven and gazing on the Earth,
Wandering companionless…?

He repeated to himself the lines of Shelley’s fragment.

Its alternation of sad human ineffectiveness with vast inhuman cycles of activity chilled him, and he forgot his own human and ineffectual grieving…..

To merge his life in the common tide of other lives was harder for him than any fasting or prayer, and it was his constant failure to do this to his own satisfaction which caused in his soul at last a sensation of spiritual dryness together with a growth of doubts and scruples….

It wounded him to think that he would never be but a shy guest at the feast of the world’s culture and that the monkish learning, in terms of which he was striving to forge out an esthetic philosophy, was held no higher by the age he lived in than the subtle and curious jargons of heraldry and falconry…..

I will tell you what I will do and what I will not do.

I will not serve that in which I no longer believe, whether it call itself my home, my fatherland, or my church:

And I will try to express myself in some mode of life or art as freely as I can and as wholly as I can, using for my defence the only arms I allow myself to use — silence, exile and cunning.

James Joyce, Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man

A book cover. It is entirely blue, and has "A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man ~ James Joyce" embossed on it.

Joyce eloped from Ireland in borrowed boots in 1904.

He fled both world wars to the safety of Zürich.

Zürich.jpg
Above: Zürich, Switzerland

Think you are escaping and run into yourself.

Longest way round is the shortest way home.

James Joyce

TakeTheLongWayHome.jpg

We did not elope, my wife and I.

We met one another in Stratford-upon-Avon, England, when she was a 19-year-old medical student serving as an apprentice at a Liverpool hospital while I was a 30-year-old traveller working in Leicester.

Stratford-upon-Avon - panoramio (4).jpg
Above: Stratford-upon-Avon, England

I followed her to Freiburg im Breisgau, settling there in 2001, marrying there in 2005, leaving there that same year for Brombach (Lörrach) near the German-Swiss border at Basel, then moving again in 2008 to Osnabrück, and finally here to Landschlacht since 2010.

View over Freiburg
Above: Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

Above: Brombach, Germany

City centre of Osnabrück
Above: Osnabrück, Germany

Above: Landschlacht, Switzerland

I have officially been living in both Eskişehir, Turkey, and Landschlacht, since 1 March 2021.

Above: Eskişehir, Turkey

Has escaping from Switzerland to Turkey made me feel like Switzerland is “home“?

Flag of Switzerland
Above: Flag of Switzerland

When the short days of winter came, dusk fell before we had well eaten our dinners.

When we met in the street the houses had grown sombre.

The space of sky above us was the colour of ever-changing violet and towards it the lamps of the street lifted their feeble lanterns.

The cold air stung us and we played till our bodies glowed.

Our shouts echoed in the silent street.

James Joyce, Dubliners

Portrait of James Joyce
Above: James Joyce (1882 – 1941)

Eloping from Ireland, via Paris, James Joyce and Nora Barnacle took a room in the Gasthaus Hoffnung (Hope) at 16 Reitergasse in Zürich.

This was where they consummated their union.

Hope often proved elusive during the decades ahead, but they were to stick by each other through poverty, two world wars, family crisis and literary fame.

They were to find themselves back in Zürich again and again, always by the skin of their teeth.

11 – 19 Oct 1904 & June/July 1915 | ZURICH JAMES JOYCE FOUNDATION
Above: Gasthaus Hoffnung, Zürich

My wife is a doctor and I am, at best, a freelance teacher of English-as-a-second-language.

She has had great success at the hospital near to our apartment.

Projekte Detailansicht
Above: Spital Thurgau, Münsterlingen

But for me Switzerland proved to be a reversal of fortunes.

Prior to the pandemic I who had once taught as many as 60 hours a week in Germany was reduced to teaching 3 hours a month.

The shortage of teaching hours compelled me to work at Starbucks in St. Gallen for five years.

Stadt St.Gallen | Starbucks Coffee Marktgasse

The resulting dissatisfaction compelled me to seek work away from Switzerland.

Through the help of a Starbucks colleague’s father I got the position at Wall Street Eskişehir, to which I shall soon return to.

We did not run from poverty, though we ran to the promise of profit.

Above: Wall Street English, Eskişehir

Switzerland has been neutral since the days of Napoleon.

Coat of arms of Switzerland
Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Fortunately neither my bride nor I have ever witnessed war directly, though I have a friend who once served in both Afghanistan and Iraq in a civilian capacity and my wife has a friend who for a time was a missionary in Afghanistan.

Flag of Afghanistan
Above: Flag of Afghanistan

Flag of Iraq
Above: Flag of Iraq

As for familial problems, well, who can say anyone has a choice in the families from whence they sprung?

Above: Clan tartan

As for literary fame, a writer needs literary product.

I am reminded of Stephen Leacock:

Mallory Tompkins had read all sorts of things and had half a mind to write a novel himself – either that or a play.

All he needed, he said, was to have a chance to get away somewhere by himself and think.

Every time he went away to the city Pipken expected that Mallory might return with the novel all finished, but though he often came back with his eyes red from thinking, the novel as yet remained incomplete.

The proprietor of the guesthouse behind the station was called Döblin.

Under the impression a job was waiting for him at the Berlitz School, Joyce next morning discovered to his dismay there was no such thing.

Zürich Switzerland-Münsterbrücke-and-Fraumünster-01.jpg
Above: Zürich

That situation I know only too well.

No photo description available.
Above: Photo of the blogger as a young man

Oxford, England, Thursday 21 October 1996

A day of betrayal and hope.

The Thames Valley Police (TVP) suggested that my poverty would be alleviated easier by charitable organizations if I received a police report about the Ramsgate robbery from the Kent County Constabulary.

The Margate crime desk quickly faxed a copy to the TVP.

The Salvation Army Majors Green provided payment for last night’s stay at the Oxford Backpackers Hostel, a bag of groceries, and a cap.

Met the sister of J, 24-year-old R.

She informed me that their mother is terminally ill with leukemia, that J got terminated from Argos, and that J doesn’t give a damn about how I am.

I start work tomorrow distributing handbills for a men’s fashion store.

From top left to bottom right: Oxford skyline panorama from St Mary's Church; Radcliffe Camera; High Street from above looking east; University College, main quadrangle; High Street by night; Natural History Museum and Pitt Rivers Museum
Above: Images of Oxford, England

The Director did his best to find the penniless Irish graduate a teaching position in Switzerland, but without success.

Writing to his brother Stanislaus, Joyce emphasized shortage of funds and the secrecy surrounding his elopement:

Go about the highways of the city but not to any of my touched friends and make up one pound before Saturday which send me on that day without fail.”

New Directions Publishing | Stanislaus Joyce
Above: Stanislaus Joyce (1884 – 1955)

In England I tried getting money from Canada but my request was refused.

I never asked again.

I would later find work in Oxford, Leicester, Nottingham, Cardiff, and Luxembourg-Ville, before returning back to Canada on 1 November 1997, have met my wife-to-be on 27 July 1997 as aforementioned.

Leicester landmarks: (clockwise from top-left) Jewry Wall, National Space Centre, Arch of Remembrance, Central Leicester, Curve theatre, Leicester Cathedral and Guildhall, Welford Road Stadium, Leicester Market
Above: Images of Leicester, England

Nottingham skyline (top), then beneath from top left: Robin Hood statue, Council House, NET tram, Trent Bridge, Castle Gate House, Wollaton Hall, Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, Nottingham Forest's City Ground
Above: Images of Nottingham, England

Clockwise from top left: The Senedd building, Principality Stadium, Cardiff Castle,[1] Cardiff Bay, Cardiff City Centre, City Hall clock tower, Welsh National War Memorial
Above: Images of Cardiff (Caerdydd), Wales (Cymru)

Skyline of Luxembourg City viewed over Grund and the Alzette
Above: Luxembourg-Ville, Luxembourg

A vertical triband design (red, white, red) with a red maple leaf in the center.
Above: Flag of Canada

The 22-year-old could not resist a laddish boast:

Finalement, elle n’est pas encore vièrge.

Elle est touchée.”

(Finally, she is no longer a virgin, she has been touched.)

The lovers spent a week in Zürich, kicking their heels.

Above: Zürich

I am not Joyce.

I do not believe in either bragging (or complaining) about my intimate (or inanimate) private life, real (or imagined).

Harry Styles Quote: “A gentleman doesn't kiss and tell.”

My baby makes me proud
Lord, don’t she make me proud
She never makes a scene
By hangin’ all over me in a crowd

‘Cause people like to talk
Lord, don’t they love to talk
But when they turn out the lights
I know she’ll be leavin’ with me

And when we get behind closed doors
Then she lets her hair hang down
And she makes me glad that I’m a man
Oh, no one knows what goes on behind closed doors

My baby makes me smile
Lord, don’t she make me smile
She’s never far away
Or too tired to say “I want you”

She’s always a lady
Just like a lady should be
But when they turn out the lights
She’s still a baby to me

‘Cause when we get behind closed doors
Then she lets her hair hang down
And she makes me glad I’m a man
Oh, no one knows what goes on behind closed doors
Behind closed doors.

Cover of the Behind Closed Doors album with the singer Charlie Rich in a cowboy hat.

Eventually a vacancy turned up in Trieste on the Adriatic.

They were off again.

That vacancy too proved as elusive as the Swiss one and they continued down the coast to Pola.

It was to be a vagabond life.

Above: Trieste, Italy

It has been suggested to me that a position might be waiting for me in Trieste after Eskişehir.

I am tempted.

Wall Street English logo.png

A decade later, in July 1914, Austria declared war on Serbia.

In August, Great Britain entered the war.

As holders of British passports, the Joyces in Austro-Hungarian Trieste grew worried.

Joyce’s brother was interned as an enemy alien in January 1915.

In May of that year, Italy mobilized its army, prompting anti-Italian demonstrations in Trieste.

Medium coat of arms (1867–1915) (see also Flags of Austria-Hungary) of Austria–Hungary
Above: Coat of arms of the Austro-Hungarian Empire (1867 – 1915)

Could war come again to Europe?

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Above: Europe (in green)

The world wars ended the pre-eminent position of Britain, France and Germany in Europe and the world.

At the Yalta Conference, Europe was divided into spheres of influence between the victors of World War II, and soon became the principal zone of contention in the Cold War between the two power blocs, the Western countries and the Communist bloc.

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Above: Yalta Conference: Winston Churchill, Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Joseph Stalin, February 1945

The United States and the majority of European liberal democracies at the time (United Kingdom, France, Italy, Netherlands, West Germany, etc.) established the NATO military alliance.

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Above: Flag of NATO (North Atlantic Treaty Organization)

Later, the Soviet Union and its satellites (Bulgaria, Czechoslovakia, East Germany, Hungary, Poland, and Romania) in 1955 established the Warsaw Pact as a counterpoint to NATO.

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Above: Logo of the Warsaw Pact

The Warsaw Pact had a much larger ground force, but the American-French-British nuclear umbrellas protected NATO.

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Above: NATO members

Communist states were imposed by the Red Army in the East, while parliamentary democracy became the dominant form of government in the West.

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Above: Warsaw Pact nations, 1990

Most historians point to its success as the product of exhaustion with war and dictatorship, and the promise of continued economic prosperity.

They also add that an important impetus came from the anti-Nazi wartime political coalitions.

The end of the Cold War came in a series of events from 1979 to 1991, mainly in Eastern Europe.

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Above: NATO (blue) versus the Warsaw Pact (red)

In the end, these brought the fall of the Iron Curtain, German reunification and the end of Soviet control over their Eastern European satellites and their worldwide network of Communist parties in a friendly chain reaction from the Pan-European Picnic in 1989.

The finals brought the division of the Soviet Union into 15 non-Communist states in 1991.

White stone memorial, with steps and people escaping
Above: Pan-European Picnic Monument, Berlin, Germany

Observers at the time emphasized that:

The systemic and ideological confrontation between capitalism and communism had faded away.

The geopolitical partition of Europe was no more.

Nuclear deterrence was morphing into a less armed, almost hypothetical version of its previous self.

Superpower rivalry was rapidly wound up with cascading effects in various areas of the world.

Capitalism vs. Communism: Pros and Cons - Soapboxie
Above: Capitalism vs Communism

Following the end of the Cold War, the European Economic Community (EEC) pushed for closer integration, co-operation in foreign and home affairs, and started to increase its membership into the neutral and former Communist countries.

Flag of EEC/ECM
Above: Flag of the European Union

In 1993, the Maastricht Treaty established the European Union (EU), succeeding the EEC and furthering political co-operation.

The neutral countries of Austria, Finland and Sweden acceded to the EU, and those that didn’t join were tied into the EU’s economic market via the European Economic Area.

These countries also entered the Schengen Agreement which lifted border controls between member states.

The Maastricht Treaty created a single currency for most EU members.

The Euro was created in 1999 and replaced all previous currencies in participating states in 2002.

The most notable exception to the currency union, or Eurozone, was the United Kingdom, which also did not sign the Schengen Agreement.

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Above: The European Union

The EU did not participate in the Yugoslav Wars (1991 – 2001) and was divided on supporting the United States in the Iraq War (2003 – 2011).

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Above: Images of the Yugoslav Wars

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Above: Images of the Iraq War

NATO has been part of the war in Afghanistan (2001 – 2021), but at a much lower level of involvement than the United States.

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Above: Images of the War in Afghanistan

In 2004, the EU gained ten new members:

(Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania (which had been part of the Soviet Union), the Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland, Slovakia and Slovenia (five former Communist countries), Malta, and the divided island of Cyprus.)

Flag of Estonia
Above: Flag of Estonia

Flag of Latvia
Above: Flag of Latvia

Flag of Lithuania
Above: Flag of Lithuania

Flag of the Czech Republic
Above: Flag of the Czech Republic

Flag of Hungary
Above: Flag of Hungary

Flag of Poland
Above: Flag of Poland

Flag of Slovakia
Above: Flag of Slovakia

Flag of Slovenia
Above: Flag of Slovenia

Flag of Malta
Above: Flag of Malta

Flag of Cyprus
Above: Flag of Cyprus

These were followed by Bulgaria and Romania in 2007.

Flag of Bulgaria
Above: Flag of Bulgaria

Flag of Romania
Above: Flag of Romania

Russia’s regime had interpreted these expansions as violations against NATO’s promise to not expand “one inch to the east” in 1990. 

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Above: Flag of Russia

Russia engaged in a number of bilateral disputes about gas supplies with Belarus and Ukraine which endangered gas supplies to Europe.

Flag of Belarus
Above: Flag of Belarus

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Above: Flag of Ukraine

Russia also engaged in a minor war with Georgia in 2008.

Flag of Georgia
Above: Flag of Georgia

Supported by the United States and some European countries, Kosovo’s government unilaterally declared independence from Serbia on 17 February 2008.

Flag of Kosovo
Above: Flag of Kosovo

Public opinion in the EU turned against enlargement, partially due to what was seen as over-eager expansion including Turkey gaining candidate status.

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Above: Flag of Turkey

The European Constitution was rejected in France and the Netherlands, and then (as the Treaty of Lisbon) in Ireland, although a second vote passed in Ireland in 2009.

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Above: Flag of Ireland

The financial crisis of 2007 – 2008 affected Europe, and government responded with austerity measures.

Limited ability of the smaller EU nations (most notably Greece) to handle their debts led to social unrest, government liquidation, and financial insolvency.

Flag of Greece
Above: Flag of Greece

In May 2010, the German parliament agreed to loan €22.4 billion to Greece over three years, with the stipulation that Greece follow strict austerity measures.

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Above: Flag of Germany

Beginning in 2014, Ukraine has been in a state of revolution and unrest with two breakaway regions (Donetsk and Lugansk) attempting to join Russia as full federal subjects.

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Above: Ukraine (in green) / disputed territories (light green)

On 16 March, a referendum was held in Crimea leading to the de facto secession of Crimea and its largely internationally unrecognized annexation to the Russian Federation as the Republic of Crimea.

Above: Flag of Crimea

In June 2016, in a referendum in the United Kingdom on the country’s membership in the EU, 52% of voters voted to leave the EU, leading to the complex Brexit separation process and negotiations, which led to political and economic changes for both the UK and the remaining EU countries.

A flag composed of a red cross edged in white and superimposed on a red saltire, also edged in white, superimposed on a white saltire on a blue background
Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

The UK left the EU on 31 January 2020.

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Above: Brexit flag

Later that year, Europe was affected by the COVID-19 pandemic.

Scientifically accurate atomic model of the external structure of SARS-CoV-2. Each "ball" is an atom.

According to the Wall Street Journal in 2021 as Angela Merkel stepped down as the highly popular Chancellort of Germany after 16 years:

Ms. Merkel leaves in her wake a weakened Europe, a region whose aspirations to act as a third superpower have come to seem ever more unrealistic.

When she became chancellor in 2005, the EU was at a high point:

It had adopted the euro, which was meant to rival the dollar as a global currency, and had just expanded by absorbing former members of the Soviet bloc.

Today’s EU, by contrast, is geographically and economically diminished.

Having lost the UK because of Brexit, it faces deep political and cultural divisions, lags behind in the global race for innovation and technology and is increasingly squeezed by the mounting US – China strategic rivalry.

Europe has endured thanks in part to Ms. Merkel’s pragmatic stewardship, but it has been battered by crises during her entire time in office.

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Above: Angela Merkel

Are Russian forces getting ready for war in Ukraine?

Russian TV shows tank exercises close to the border with Ukraine on 14 Jan 2022

US President Joe Biden is certainly expecting some kind of military move.

Russia wants the West to promise that Ukraine will not join its NATO defensive alliance, and although the two sides are negotiating, that is not going to happen.

What happens next could jeopardise Europe’s entire security structure.

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Above: US President Joe Biden

Russia denies it is planning any invasion, but it has seized Ukrainian territory before and it has an estimated 100,000 troops deployed near its borders.

Russia has long resisted Ukraine’s move towards European institutions, and NATO in particular.

Graphic showing positioning of Russian troops..

Ukraine shares borders with both the EU and Russia, but as a former Soviet republic it has deep social and cultural ties with Russia, and Russian is widely spoken there.

When Ukrainians deposed their pro-Russian president in early 2014, Russia annexed Ukraine’s southern Crimean peninsula and backed separatists who captured large swathes of eastern Ukraine.

The rebels have fought the Ukrainian military ever since in a conflict that has claimed more than 14,000 lives.

Coat of arms of Ukraine
Above: Coat of arms of Ukraine

Russia says it has no plans to attack Ukraine:

Armed forces chief Valery Gerasimov even denounced reports of an impending invasion as a lie.

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Above: Chief of the General Staff of the Armed Forces of the Russian Federation, First Deputy Minister of Defence of the Russian Federation, General of the Army Valery Gerasimov

But tensions are high and President Vladimir Putin has threatened “appropriate retaliatory military-technical measures” if what he calls the West’s aggressive approach continues.

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Above: Russian President Vladimir Putin

NATO’s secretary general warns the risk of conflict is real and President Biden says his guess is that Russia will move in.

The US says it knows of Russian plans to boost its forces near Ukraine “on very short notice“.

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Above: NATO Secretary General Jens Stoltenberg

The US says Russia has offered no explanation for the troops posted close to Ukraine – and Russian troops and tanks have headed to Belarus for exercises.

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Above: Russia (green) / disputed territory (light green)

Russia’s deputy foreign minister compared the current situation to the 1962 Cuban missile crisis, when the US and Soviet Union came close to nuclear conflict.

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Above: Soviet R12 nuclear ballistic missile

Western intelligence suggests a Russian incursion or invasion could happen some time in early 2022.

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Russia has spoken of a “moment of truth” in recasting its relationship with NATO:

For us it’s absolutely mandatory to ensure Ukraine never, ever becomes a member of NATO,” said Deputy Foreign Minister Sergei Ryabkov.

Moscow accuses NATO countries of “pumping” Ukraine with weapons and the US of stoking tensions.

President Putin has complained Russia has “nowhere further to retreat todo they think we’ll just sit idly by?

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Above: Russian Deputy Foreign Minister Sergei Ryabkov

In reality, Russia wants NATO to return to its pre-1997 borders.

It demands no more eastward expansion and an end to NATO military activity in Eastern Europe.

That would mean combat units being pulled out of Poland and the Baltic republics of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, and no missiles deployed in countries such as Poland and Romania.

A graphic showing Nato's expansion since 1997

Map indicating locations of NATO and Russia
Above: NATO (green) / Russia (orange)

Russia has also proposed a treaty with the US barring nuclear weapons from being deployed beyond their national territories.

World War 3: Russia and UK's relationship eerily similar to historic NATO  war game | World | News | Express.co.uk

Russia seized Crimea in 2014 arguing it had a historic claim to it.

Ukraine was part of the Soviet Union, which collapsed in December 1991.

Putin said it was the “disintegration of historical Russia“.

A clue to President Putin’s thinking on Ukraine came in a lengthy piece last year when he called Russians and Ukrainians “one nation“.

He labelled Ukraine’s current leaders as running an “anti-Russian project“.

Flag of the Soviet Union
Above: Flag of the former Soviet Union (1922 – 1981)

Russia has also become frustrated that a 2015 Minsk peace deal for eastern Ukraine is far from being fulfilled.

There are still no arrangements for independently monitored elections in the separatist regions.

Russia denies accusations that it is part of the lingering conflict.

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Above: A map of the buffer zone established by the Minsk Protocol

President Vladimir Putin has spoken several times to Biden and high level talks continue, but Russian officials have warned that Western rejection of their key demands are leading to a “dead end“.

The question is how far Russia will go.

Analysis: Joe Biden cranks up pressure as Vladimir Putin mulls Ukraine  invastion - CNNPolitics
Above: Joe Biden and Vladimir Putin

President Biden has warned that a full-scale invasion would be a disaster for Russia.

But if it was a minor incursion, he said controversially that the West would “end up having to fight about what to do“.

Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky visiting positions on the frontline with pro-Russian militants in the Donetsk region, Ukraine, 06 December 2021
Above: Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky on the front line on 6 December 2021

The White House has stressed any move across the border constitutes a renewed invasion – but points out Russia has other weapons, including cyber-attacks and paramilitary tactics.

The Pentagon has accused Russia of preparing a so-called false-flag operation, with operatives ready to carry out acts of sabotage against Russian-backed rebels, to provide a pretext for invasion. Russia has denied it.

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Above: The Pentagon, HQ of the US Department of Defense, Arlington, Virginia

Russia has also handed out 500,000 passports in rebel-run areas, so if it does not get what it wants then it could justify any action as protecting its own citizens.

Map of eastern Ukraine

However, if Russia’s only aim is to force NATO away from its backyard, there is no sign of it succeeding.

NATO’s 30 members have turned down flat any attempt to tie their hands for the future.

We will not allow anyone to slam closed Nato’s open-door policy,” said US Deputy Secretary of State Wendy Sherman.

Ukraine is looking for a clear timeline to join and NATO says Russia has “no veto, no right to interfere in that process”.

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Above: US Deputy Secretary of State Wendy Sherman

Non-NATO members Sweden and Finland have also rejected Russia’s attempt to stop them beefing up their ties with the alliance.

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Above: Flag of Sweden

Flag of Finland
Above: Flag of Finland

We will not let go of our room for manoeuvre,” said Finland’s prime minister.

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Above: Finnish Prime Minister Sanna Marin

The US has made clear it has no plans to send combat troops, while being committed to helping Ukraine defend its “sovereign territory“.

The main tools in the West’s armoury appears to be sanctions and military aid in the form of advisers and weapons.

Military strengths graphic

President Biden has threatened Russia’s leader with measures “like none he’s ever seen” if Ukraine is attacked.

So what would they involve?

The ultimate economic hit would be to disconnect Russia’s banking system from the international Swift payment system.

That has always been seen very much as a last resort, but Latvia has said it would send a strong message to Moscow.

SWIFT Logo
Above: Society for Worldwide Interbank Financial Telecommunications logo

Another key threat is to prevent the opening of Russia’s Nord Stream 2 gas pipeline in Germany, and approval for that is currently being decided by Germany’s energy regulator.

Location of Nord Stream 1

There could also be measures targeting Russia’s RDIF sovereign wealth fund or restrictions on banks converting roubles into foreign currency.

RDIF.svg

Washington has said it is committed to “working in lockstep” with its allies, but there are divisions between the US and Europe.

European leaders are adamant that Russia cannot just decide on the future with the US.

France has even proposed that Europeans work together with NATO and then conduct their own dialogue with Russia.

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Above: Flag of France

Ukraine’s president wants an international summit to resolve the conflict, involving France and Germany along with Russia.

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Above: Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky

Another World War?

Unlikely.

A war over Ukraine similar to past conflicts over the Korean Peninsula and Indochina?

Maybe.

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Above: Images of the Korean War (1950 – 1953)

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Above: Images of the Vietnam War (1955 – 1975)

Switzerland again a sanctuary from war?

Above: Map of Switzerland (German language)

There has been significant immigration to Switzerland since the 1960s.

By contrast, during the 19th century, emigration from Switzerland was more common, as Switzerland was economically a poor country where a large fraction of the population survived on subsistence farming.

The largest immigrant groups in Switzerland are those from Italy, Germany, the former Yugoslavia, Albania, Portugal and Turkey (Turks and Kurds).

Between them, these six groups account for about 1.5 million people, 60% of the Swiss population with immigrant background, or close to 20% of total Swiss population.

How many migrants settle in Switzerland? | nccr – on the move

The current federal law of 16 December 2005, on foreigners (the Foreign Nationals Act) came into force on 1 January 2008, replacing the Federal Act on the Residence and Establishment of Foreigners of 1931.

Swizerland and Australia, with about a quarter of their population born outside the country, are the two countries with the highest proportion of immigrants in the western world, although who counts as an immigrant varies from country to country, and even between agencies within countries.

A blue field with the Union Flag in the upper hoist quarter, a large white seven-pointed star in the lower hoist quarter, and constellation of five white stars in the fly – one small five-pointed star and four, larger, seven-pointed stars.
Above: Flag of Australia

Some countries naturalise immigrants easily, while others make it much more difficult, which means that such comparisons ought to be treated with caution.

Switzerland also has the highest Potential Net Migration Index of any European country by a large margin, at +150% (followed by Sweden at +78%) according to a 2010 Gallup study:

This means that out of an estimated 700 million potential migrants worldwide, about 12 million (150% of Swiss resident population) would name Switzerland as their most desired country of residence. 

Residents with migration background are twice as likely to be unemployed.

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Switzerland doesn’t have much in common with Mars, but that doesn’t stop a foreigner from feeling like they have landed on another planet upon arrival.

They call people living in a country without holding its citizenship “resident aliens” and it is not without reason.

For even though Swiss trains are efficient (at least according to the lore), Swiss bureaucracy is not.

It is a new place.

You cannot just stand there and stare at it.

You have got to listen to what it is trying to tell you.

But there is much difficulty doing even the simple things.

It is not supposed to be a land of hardship.

It is supposed to be a land of cheese, chocolate and tax evaders.

Things are supposed to be both delicious and easy.

Delicious?

Yes.

Easy?

Absolutely not.

What can an immigrant do?

Give up?

It is tempting.

It is said that people who live abroad are more creative than people who do not.

Perhaps this has more to do with desperation than with inspiration.

Panozzo Chantal-999 Ways To Travel Switzerland BOOK NEW 9780990315537 | eBay

Though I had not given up my career, my career seemed to have given up on me after I moved to Switzerland so my wife could advance hers.

I came to realize that outside of institutions like school and work or outside of my mother tongue of English, I had come to rely on these to make friends.

I never considered how lonely life can be in Switzerland, wife notwithstanding.

As hard as it is to find permanent full-time employment as an ESL teacher in Switzerland, I found myself not at peace with my place as the trailing spouse and being asked to accept my fate accordingly.

I tried – for a decade – but a temp job at Starbucks that lasted five years but offered neither job security nor any incentive to seek promotion….

I seized an opportunity.

Out.

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Despite the encroaching debacle, Joyce was gestating the novel that would make his name and send his own salvoes across the literary landscape.

In a letter to Ezra Pound, Joyce informed the poet that he had already completed the first two episodes of Ulysses:

And so, on 28 June 1915, leaving behind all their furniture and belongings, the Joyce family were able to leave for Zürich from the Southern Railway Station.

Weighed down with suitcases, which fortunately were not checked by the Austrian police at the border, they took a train bound for Innsbruck through the Brenner Pass.

They were to come back for less than nine months at the end of the war after Trieste had become Italian, but only to depart once more, in 1920, for Paris.

Never to return.

James Joyce Ulysses 1st Edition 1922 GB.jpg

I confess I hate the words “never to return” or “burning bridges behind“, but as much as I valued my time at Starbucks, I hope I never return to work there again.

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Above: Starbucks logo

Their train was detained at Innsbruck to allow the Emperor’s train to pass.

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Above: Austrian Federal Railways (Österreichische Bundesbahnen) logo

Innsbruck, Austria, 19 October 1997

Sprawling beneath the mountain ridge of the Nordkette, Innsbruck is the only major urban centre in Austria with an array of high Alps on its own doorstep.

The visitor can visit museums in the morning, walk up mountains in the afternoon and bar-hop well into the early hours.

With the Tyrol’s largest concentration of mountain resorts in such close proximity, skiing is obviously big news here.

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Above: Innsbruck, Austria

Hosting the Winter Olympics in 1964 and 1976 provided the city with a wealth of sporting and tourist facilities to call its own.

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1976 Winter Olympics logo.svg

For those who just want a taste of history, Innsbruck’s compact centre – a classic Austrian hybrid of the Gothic and Baroque – invites aimless strolling.

It is also a thriving commercial centre that depends on more than just tourism for its living.

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Above: Altes Landhaus, Innsbruck

Innsbruck has a down-to-earth unpretentious air quite different to that of western Austria’s other main urban centre, self-possessed Salzburg.

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Above: Salzburg, Austria

Innsbruck is the nation’s 3rd biggest university city after Vienna and Graz, its sizable student population helping to support a range of cultural and nightlife options wide enough to suit most tastes.

Above: Wien (Vienna), Österreich (Austria)

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Above: Graz, Austria

It is an easy city to explore, with many of its tourist attractions only a few paces apart.

A great deal of sightseeing can be achieved in the space of a day.

And I did my best to see everything in a day:

  • the Golden Roof of the Maximilianeum Museum

Above: Goldenes Dach (Golden Roof), Innsbruck

  • the Helblinghaus

Above: Helblinghaus (Sebastian Helbling House), Innsbruck

  • the Stadtturm

Stadtturm (Innsbruck) – Wikipedia
Above: Stadtturm (City Tower), Innsbruck

  • the Domkirche St. Jakob

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Above: Innsbruck Cathedral

  • the Hofburg

Above: Hofburg (Court Castle / Imperial Palace), Innsbruck

  • the Hofkirche

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Above: Hofkirche (Court Church), Innsbruck

  • the Cenotaph of Emperor Maximilian I (1459 – 1519)

Above: Cenotaph of Emperor Maximilian I, Hofkirche, Innsbruck

  • the Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum

Above: Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum (Tyrolean Folk Art Museum), Innsbruck

  • Tiroler Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum

Above: Ferdinandeum (Tyrolean State Museum), Innsbruck

  • the Zeughaus

Above: Zeughaus (Armoury), Innsbruck

  • the Annasäule

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Above: Annasäule (St. Anne’s Column), Innsbruck

  • the Alpenverein Museum

Above: Hofburg, which houses the Alpenverein Museum (Alpine Club Museum), Innsbruck

  • the Galerie Taxispalais

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Above: Taxispalais (Taxis Palace)

  • the Triumphpforte….

Above: Triumphpforte (Arch of Triumph), Innsbruck

But I was, for once, not in Innsbruck to play tourist.

Coat of arms of Innsbruck
Above: Coat of arms of Innsbruck

I was there for a woman.

I had met O at the sunset of a relationship and prior to the sunrise of the relationship in which I have since remained for a quarter of a century.

Histoire d o.jpg

W was Welsh and was most determined to show me Wales.

And show me Wales, she did.

Flag of Wales
Above: Flag of Wales

  • Borth
  • Cardigan Bay

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Above: Borth and Cardigan Bay, Wales

  • Machynlleth

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Above: Machynlleth, Wales

  • Porthmadog

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Above: Porthmadog, Wales

  • the Ffestiniog Railway

Above: Ffestiniog Railway train leaves Porthmadog and heads towards Blaenau Ffestiniog along the Cob, Wales

  • Harlech

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Above: Harlech Castle, Harlech, Wales

  • Barmouth

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Above: Barmouth, Wales

  • Bala

Welcome to Visit Bala | Visit Bala | Visit Bala
Above: High Street, Bala, Wales

  • Llanuwchllyn

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Above. High Street, Llanuwchllyn, Wales

  • the Bala Lake Railway

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Above: The Alice, Llanuwchllyn, Bala Lake Railway, Wales

  • Llangollen

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Above: Llangollen, Wales

  • Dolgellau

Above: Dolgellau, Wales

  • Betws-Y-Coed

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Above: Betws-y-Coed, Wales

  • Conwy

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Above: Conwy, Wales

  • Beaumaris

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Above: Beaumaris Castle, Beaumaris, Wales

  • Bangor

Above: Bangor, Wales

  • and back in England (but feeling Welsh), Shrewsbury

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Above: Shrewsbury, England

In Bangor, W and I stayed at the Tan-y-Bryn Youth Hostel.

Tan-y-bryn | Coflein

After a long day wherein we saw the Bangor Theatre, the Menai Straits and Pier, Bangor Cathedral and Bangor University and Penrhyn Castle, ate Chinese food, and drank Dogbolters at the Ffesant and Firkin Brewery Pub, we found ourselves chatting in the common room of the Hostel – W and I, O of Innsbruck and S of Ljubjana.

Theatr Gwynedd in Bangor, GB - Cinema Treasures
Above: Theatr Gwynedd, Bangor, Wales

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Above: Aerial view of the Menai Straits

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Above: Garth Pier, Bangor, Wales

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Above: Bangor Cathedral

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Above. Penrhyn Castle, Wales

Coc Y Gath! Too Much Burton Snatch For Me.
Above: Former location of the FFesant and Firkin pub, Bangor, Wales

YHA logo (green triangle with initials YHA)
Above: Youth Hostels Association (England and Wales) logo

S excused himself as did W excuse herself, surrendering to fatigue.

O and I spoke for hours more.

O and I kept up intimate correspondence before Innsbruck and for a short time afterwards.

I read the situation wrong and thought there was a connection between us.

I was wrong.

Innsbruck remains tainted.

View of Innsbruck by Albrecht Dürer, 1495 

Joyce had declared earlier in Trieste:

Kings are mountebanks.

(A mountebank is a person who deceives others, especially in order to trick them out of their money, a charlatan.)

(Yes, I had to look this up.)

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Above: Emperor Charles I of Austria (1887 – 1922)(r. 1916 – 1918)

Republics are slippers for everyone’s feet.”

May be an image of footwear and text that says 'Do these look like they're Laughing or Have i gone crazy?'

I am certain that his friend Ezra Pound would have approved.

photograph of Ezra H. Pound
Above: Ezra Pound, 1913

Ezra Pound (1885 – 1972) was an expatriate American poet and critic, a major figure in the early modernist poetry movement, and a fascist collaborator in Italy during World War II.

His works include Ripostes (1912), Hugh Selwyn Mauberley (1920), and his 800-page epic poem, The Cantos (1917 – 1962).

EzraPound Ripostes.png

Pound’s contribution to poetry began in the early 20th century with his role in developing imagism, a movement stressing precision and economy of language.

Working in London as foreign editor of several American literary magazines, he helped discover and shape the work of contemporaries such as T.S. Eliot, Ernest Hemingway, and James Joyce.

Eliot in 1934 by Lady Ottoline Morrell
Above: Thomas Stearns Eliot (1888 – 1965)

He was responsible for the 1914 serialization of Joyce’s A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man, the 1915 publication of Eliot’s “The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock“, and the serialization from 1918 of Joyce’s Ulysses.

Hemingway wrote in 1932 that, for poets born in the late 19th or early 20th century, not to be influenced by Pound would be “like passing through a great blizzard and not feeling its cold.”

Dark-haired man in light colored short-sleeved shirt working on a typewriter at a table on which sits an open book
Above: Ernest Hemingway (1899 – 1961)

Angered by the carnage of World War I, Pound blamed the war on finance capitalism, which he called “usury” (the practice of making unethical or immoral monetary loans that unfairly enrich the lender).

WWImontage.jpg
Above: Images of World War I (1914 – 1918)

Pound moved to Italy in 1924 and through the 1930s and 1940s promoted an economic theory known as social credit, wrote for publications owned by the British fascist Sir Oswald Mosley, embraced Benito Mussolini’s fascism, and expressed support for Adolf Hitler.

Oswald mosley MP.jpg
Above: Oswald Mosley (1896 – 1980)

Mussolini biografia.jpg
Above: Benito Mussolini (1883 – 1945)

Portrait of Adolf Hitler, 1938
Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

During World War II and the Holocaust in Italy, Pound made hundreds of paid radio broadcasts for the Italian government, including in German-occupied Italy, attacking the United States, Franklin D. Roosevelt, Great Britain, international finance, munitions makers and mongers, and Jews, among others, as causes, abettors and prolongers of the world war.

Above: Ezra Pound, 1920

FDR 1944 Color Portrait.jpg
Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945)

As a result of which Pound was arrested in 1945 by American forces in Italy on charges of treason.

Photograph of a man

He spent months in a US military camp in Pisa, including three weeks in an outdoor steel cage.

Photograph of steel cages
Above: Pound spent three weeks in the reinforced cage on the far left.

Deemed unfit to stand trial, he was incarcerated in St. Elizabeths Psychiatric Hospital in Washington DC, for over 12 years.

photograph
Above: St. Elizabeth’s Psychiatric Hospital, Washington DC

While in custody in Italy, Pound began work on sections of The Cantos that were published as The Pisan Cantos (1948), for which he was awarded the Bollingen Prize for Poetry in 1949 by the Library of Congress, causing enormous controversy.

After a campaign by his fellow writers, he was released from St. Elizabeths in 1958 and lived in Italy until his death in 1972.

His economic and political views have ensured that his life and work remain controversial.

The Cantos by Ezra Pound - Paperback - 3rd - 1996 - from Philosophia &  Litterae (SKU: 022)

Sometimes I wonder if, in the eyes of some still, whether an American reading Pound is akin to a German buying art from Hitler’s Viennese period.

Above: Der Alte Hof in München, Adolf Hitler, 1914

Nonetheless, Joyce’s 11 years in Trieste under Austro-Hungarian rule -“Each archduke proud, the whole jimbang crowd” – had been benign.

When 23 year-old Joyce first moved to Trieste in March 1905, he immediately started teaching English at the Berlitz school.

By June, Joyce felt financially secure enough to have his satirical poem “Holy Office” printed and asked for copies to be distributed to his former associates in Dublin.

Photograph of Trieste filled with ships around 1907 viewing the city from out in the harbor
Above: Trieste, 1907

Trieste (Triest in German, Trst in Slovenian and Croatian) is a city in Northeast Italy that was once a very influential and powerful centre of politics, literature, music, art and culture under Austrian-Hungarian dominion.

Today, Trieste is often forgotten as tourists head off to bigger Italian cities like Roma (Rome), Milano (Milan), and Trieste’s ancient archrival Venezia (Venice).

But those tourists miss out on a very charming and underestimated city, with a quiet and lovely almost Eastern European atmosphere, several pubs and cafes, some stunning architecture and a beautiful sea view.

It was also, for a while, the residence of the famous Irish writer, James Joyce.

Above: Trieste, Italy

Joyce kept writing despite all these changes.

He completed 24 chapters of Stephen Hero and all but the final story of Dubliners.

But he was unable to get Dubliners in press.

Though the London publisher Grant Richards had contracted with Joyce to publish it, the printers were unwilling to print passages they found controversial because English law could hold them liable if they were brought to court for indecent language.

Richards and Joyce went back and forth trying to find a solution where the book could avoid legal liability while preserving Joyce’s sense of artistic integrity.

As they continued to negotiate, Richards began to scrutinise the stories more carefully.

He became concerned that the book might damage his publishing house’s reputation and eventually backed down from his agreement.

Grant Richards, British publisher and writer, in 1909.png
Above: Grant Richards (1872 – 1948)

Getting a book published should be easy:

  1. Edit and proofread.
  2. Identify a target audience for your book.
  3. Identify potential agents.
  4. Submit your book proposal directly to a publisher.

How to Write Your First Novel: The Stress-Free Guide to Writing Fiction for  Beginners by M.L. Ronn

Trieste was Joyce’s main residence until 1920.

Although he would temporarily leave the city — briefly staying in Rome, travelling to Dublin and emigrating to Zürich during World War I — it became a second Dublin for him and played an important role in his development as a writer.

Dubliners eBook by James Joyce - 1230003633175 | Rakuten Kobo Greece

He completed Dubliners, reworked Stephen Hero into Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man, wrote his only published play Exiles, and decided to make Ulysses a full-length novel as he created his notes and jottings for the work.

Exiles | James JOYCE

He worked out the characters of Leopold and Molly Bloom in Trieste.

Ulysses eBook by James Joyce - 1230002430188 | Rakuten Kobo Greece

Many of the novel’s details were taken from Joyce’s observation of the city and its people, and some of its stylistic innovations appear to have been influenced by Futurism – (an artistic and social movement that originated in Italy in the early 20th century and also developed in Russia, it emphasized dynamism, speed, technology, youth, violence, and objects such as the car, the airplane, and the industrial city).

Above: Dynamic Hieroglyphic of the Bal Tabarin, Gino Severini, 1912

There are even words of the Triestine dialect in Finnegans Wake.

Simple book cover, unadorned

Trieste is at the crossroads of several commercial and cultural flows: German-speaking Central Europe to the north, Slavic masses and the Balkans to the east, Italy and Latin countries to the west and the Mediterranean Sea to the south.

Its artistic and cultural heritage is linked to its singular “border town” location.

You can find some old Roman architecture (a small theatre near the sea, a nice arch into old city and an interesting Roman museum), Austrian Empire architecture across the city centre (similar to stuff you can find in Vienna) and a nice atmosphere of metissage of Mediterranean styles, as Trieste was a very important port during the 18th century.

Above: Trieste

In late May 1906, the head of the Berlitz school ran away after embezzling its funds.

Artifoni took over the school but let Joyce know that he could only afford to keep one brother on. 

The Berlitz School | Lo chiamavano Zois…

Berlitz Corporation is a Japanese-owned language education and leadership training company based in Princeton, New Jersey.

The company was founded in 1878 by Maximilian Berlitz in Providence, Rhode Island in the United States.

Berlitz Corporation is now a member of the Benesse Group, a Japanese company, with more than 547 company-owned and franchised locations in more than 70 countries.

Berlitz Sprachschulen logo.svg

Berlitz started in 1878, when Maximilian Berlitz was in need of an assistant French instructor.

He employed a Frenchman by the name of Nicholas Joly, only soon to discover that Joly barely spoke English, and was hired to teach French to English speakers in their native language.

The first Berlitz language school opened in Providence, Rhode Island, in July 1878.

A decade later, Berlitz moved to Boston, Massachusetts, and opened additional schools.

Soon after, he opened schools in New York and New Jersey.

In 1886, he moved the headquarters and his personal residence to New York City.

In 1895, a children’s language learning book was published by Maximilian Berlitz. 

By 1914, there were about 200 Berlitz schools, including 63 Berlitz schools in Germany and 27 in Britain.

By the time of the start of World War I in 1914, there were over 200 Berlitz Schools worldwide.

Maximilian Berlitz died in 1921.

Portrait of Maximilian Berlitz
Above: Maximilian Berlitz (1852 – 1921)

His son-in-law and associate, Victor Harrison-Berlitz, assumed leadership of the business.

Harrison died in 1932, and control passed briefly to his son, Victor Harrison-Berlitz Jr.

The control of the company was thereafter passed to Jacques Strumpen-Darrie.

Jacques’ son Robert succeeded his father as president in 1953.

Above: The first Berlitz Language School in Providence, Rhode Island (1878)

In the 1950s, Berlitz opened its first Latin American language center in Mexico, followed by locations in Brazil, Venezuela, Argentina, Colombia, Chile, and Peru.

Flag of Mexico
Above: Flag of Mexico

In 1966, Berlitz reached Asia, starting with a language center in Tokyo.

Today, there are more than 90 Berlitz centres in Asia.

Berlitz has 547 locations in more than 70 countries.

Locations | Berlitz Language Training Canada
Above: Berlitz Language Training Centres Worldwide

The Berlitz Method” uses the direct method and focuses on using language as a tool for communication.

The direct method, as opposed to the traditional grammar translation method, advocates teaching through the target language only, the rationale being that students will be able to work out grammatical rules from the input language provided, without necessarily being able to explain the rules overtly.

Today, there are a variety of derivative methods and theories that find their beginnings in the natural and communicative elements that were pioneered by Berlitz.

The tried-and-tested Berlitz Method®

While the situation at Berlitz is different from country to country, in Japan there has been substantial industrial action, including the 2007 – 2008 Berlitz Japan strike, which grew into the longest and largest sustained strike among language teachers in Japan.

Berlitz filed suit against the teachers’ union for damages it says it suffered during the strike, but the claim was rejected by the Tokyo District Court on 27 February 2012. 

Within a week Berlitz appealed the ruling to the High Court, with the first court date on 28 May 2012.

The final hearing was held on 27 December 2012, when an agreement was struck between Berlitz and the union.

Berlitz withdrew their High Court lawsuit and new rules for collective bargaining were also established.

They will again be conducted in English, after the language was changed to Japanese previously.

Berlitz also promised to disclose more financial information to the union.

The company also agreed to pay a base-up raise to current union members plus a lump sum bonus to the union.

Berlitz court ruling unequivocal on basic right to strike | The Japan Times
Above: Berlitz Japan strike

In 2010, employees of Berlitz language centers in Germany experienced a major labor conflict, as management planned to lay off nearly 70 contract teachers in order to economize with a staff of freelancers.

Berlitz Deutschland GmbH - 3 Bewertungen - München Altstadt - Weinstr. |  golocal
Above: Berlitz Sprachschule (Language School), München (Munich), Deutschland (Germany)

My own personal experience with Berlitz was in Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany.

I applied for work there to discover that not only was that school the least lucrative of schools in the city at that time, that I would not be paid during the training period that was not held there but in a different city, but as well I would be forbidden to work for other schools while working for Berlitz.

Sprachtraining und BAMF-Kurse in Freiburg | Berlitz
Above: Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

Wall Street English (formerly Wall Street Institute) is among the largest providers of English language education for adults around the world.

Wall Street English was established in 1972 in Italy by Italian Luigi Tiziano Peccenini. 

Pecce, Luigi Tiziano Peccenini.jpg
Above: Luigi Tiziano Peccenini

The first Wall Street Institute centres opened in Italy in 1972, and within two years 24 new centres opened across Italy.

In 1983, Wall Street Institute expanded outside of Italy, and by the late 1980s Wall Street Institute was well established across Europe.

Expansion continued through the early 1990s, when centres were opened in Mexico, Chile and Venezuela.

Beginning in the late 1990s, Wall Street Institute expanded into the Middle East and then to Asia, which has grown to be a significant part of its business.

The company has over three million alumni with a current enrolment of 180,000 students.

Using a franchise model, they currently operate over 450 centers in 28 countries in North Africa, East Asia, Southeast Asia, Europe, Latin America, and the Middle East. 

Its international offices are in Hong Kong and in Barcelona, Spain.

In 2013, Wall Street Institute launched a company-wide rebranding, changing its name and identity.

The company now operates as Wall Street English.

We are Wall Street English

The Wall Street English program is designed for all levels of learners.

They have 20 different levels of English language courses ranging from beginner to advanced.

Their program includes an English-only environment in their centers, native English-speaking teachers, social activities that allow students to practice English in a social, non-threatening environment, and a global online student community.

The Wall Street English Blended Learning Method, created by Luigi Tiziano Peccenini and Luciano Biondo, combines different education methods of acquiring a language into one study cycle.

The Blended Learning Method includes self-study, small teacher-led classes, and practice time.

Students listen, read, write, speak, and practice English to gain a deep understanding of the language.

Wall Street English has been teaching English since 1972.

Our Method - Wall Street English

Their curriculum is aligned to the Common European Framework of Reference for Languages (CEFR), according to a study undertaken with the support of the University of Cambridge English for Speakers of Other Languages Examination group (ESOL).

In plain English ...: THE COMMON EUROPEAN FRAMEWORK OF REFERENCE FOR  LANGUAGES

Wall Street English was acquired by Pearson plc from an affiliate of the Carlyle Group and Citic Private Equity for $92 million in cash in 2010. 

Pearson logo.svg

In 2017, Pearson sold it to Baring Private Equity Asia and CITIC Capital for around $300 million.

Baring Private Equity Asia Logo.png

There are eight Wall Street English centers in Switzerland: Biel/Bienne, Fribourg/Freiburg, Geneva, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Lausanne, Lugano, Montreux and Neuchâtel.

Eskişehir is not my first experience with Wall Street.

Once upon a time, back in 2012 – 2013, I worked at a Wall Street branch in St. Gallen.

I enjoyed teaching there, but I found management difficult to work with.

With the closing of that branch in 2014, there are no longer branches in the German-speaking regions of Switzerland.

Above: Languages of Switzerland – German (orange) / French (purple) / Italian (green) / Romansh (yellow)

There are 16 centres in Turkey: six in Istanbul (at Bakirköy, Caddebostan, Sisli, Erenköy, Taksim and Beylikdüzü), three centres in Ankara (Kizilay, Cayyolu and Ostim), Izmit, Bursa, Eskişehir, Izmir, Antalya, Gaziantep and Konya.

Franciza Wall Street English | Franciza.ro

Tired of Trieste and discouraged that he could not get a publisher for Dubliners, Joyce found an advertisement for a correspondence clerk in a Roman bank that paid twice his current salary. 

He was hired for the position, and went to Rome at the end of July.

James Joyce and His Time in Rome - Walks in Rome (Est. 2001)

Above: James Joyce Plaque, Rome

Their first address was a rooming house at Via Frattina 52, off the Corso.

A memorial tablet now graces the building:

Where he lived from August to December 1906 / James Joyce / A voluntary exile evoked the story of Ulysses / Making of his Dublin our Universe.”

Their lodgings were two blocks from the bank where Joyce worked at Via S. Claudio 87.

Rome was rather tense in 1906.

Pope Pius X, still smarting from his loss of the Papal States some 30 years earlier, refused to move beyond the sanctuary of St Peter’s while the Savoy family, his rivals and Italy’s new monarchs, built rather grand monuments, empty gestures of grandeur.

Pius X, by Ernest Walter Histed (retouched).jpg
Above: Pope Pius X ( Giuseppe Melchiorre Sarto) (1835 – 1914)

Into this tension walked 24-year-old James Joyce:

A man desperately trying to escape tensions of his own.

Since leaving Dublin, Joyce had been living in the Adriatic coastal town of Trieste, in northeast Italy.

He had made quite an impact on the expatriate community and their hangers-on.

Many people befriended Joyce and seemed endlessly willing to help him and his wife as they struggled to come to terms with the realities of raising a young family.

Datei:James Joyce Statue Triest 08-2016 300dpi.jpg – Wikipedia
Above: James Joyce Statue, Trieste

But Joyce was a restless and flamboyant character whose fondness for alcohol worried his wife and riled his English school employers.

Joyce even lured his brother Stanislaus to Trieste, knowing full well the extra income would help maintain his indulgent lifestyle.

To make matters worse, the school director absconded, leaving the school in disarray and Joyce without a regular income.

There was always trouble in Trieste.

New Directions Publishing | Stanislaus Joyce
Above: Stanislaus Joyce (1884 – 1955)

Perhaps Rome, with all its mysterious splendour and history, could inspire him to greatness.

Destiny and fame surely awaited him.

This was the city of the Caesars.

Rome Montage 2017.png
Above: Images of Roma (Rome), Italia (Italy)

It was where Keats (1795 – 1821) died, where Goethe (1749 – 1832) had roamed the Forum, and Joyce’s great hero Henrik Ibsen (1828 – 1906) spent many happy months.

Above: John Keats Tombstone, Rome

 - Goethe in the Roman Campagna - Google Art Project.jpg
Above: Goethe in the Roman Campagna, Johann Heinrich Wilhelm Tischbein, 1786

Above: Henrik Ibsen (far left) with friends in Rome, 1867

Joyce fixed his mind on the Eternal City and went about securing a job for himself with little difficulty.

Aided by a letter of recommendation from a former lord mayor of Dublin, Timothy Harrington, Joyce was offered a temporary post in the bank of Nast, Kolb and Schumacher, which stood at the corner of Via del Corso and Via S. Claudio, today the site of a large department store.

Above: Timothy Harrington (1851 – 1910)

Arriving in Rome on 31 July 1906, the Joyce family took lodgings on the third floor of a house at 52 Via Frattina, where today a plaque commemorates his stay.

The accommodation was small but close to his work and the bars and cafés around the Spanish Steps.

From the very beginning, however, his letters to Stanislaus speak negatively of the city and its people.

According to Joyce, the area around the Colosseum was simply “like an old cemetery with broken columns of temples and slabs.”

In a letter to his brother, he wrote:

Rome reminds me of a man who lives by exhibiting to travellers his grandmother’s corpse.

It’s clear that the city’s former glories did nothing for such a modern man.

But he clearly admits his own shortcomings and demonstrates his indignation in another letter to Stanislaus, lamenting:

I wish I knew something of Latin or Roman history.

But it’s not worthwhile beginning now.

So let the ruins rot.”

Colosseo 2020.jpg
Above: The Colosseum, Rome

His work in the bank was soul-destroying.

He often had to work 12 hours a day, copying up to 200 letters in an office where he had no interaction with the public.

He had nothing but contempt for his colleagues who spoke endlessly of their ailments.

His brother received constant updates on how difficult life in Rome was.

And although Joyce was earning more money in the bank, he frequently begged his brother to send more cash.

We want somebody completely dedicated to our firm, so you must not ask for a timetable that allows for extra jobs.

Thus the private bank of Nast-Kolb and Schumacher in Rome sought to put the screws on its prospective employee, the 25-year-old Irish writer James Joyce.

Outwardly, Joyce was completely dedicated to the firm.

His hours were long:

08.30-12.00, 14.00-19.30.

After that there were the little English language teaching jobs, guaranteed to shrink the mind and to round out the ends of the months.

Like many before and after, Joyce quickly found his salary (L.250 a month) inadequate and Rome expensive:

Rome certainly is not cheap, a lira goes a very short way here.”

With his linguistic skills, he was employed initially in the correspondence office of the bank.

While in Rome he took Danish lessons from a man named Petersen.

He was already fluent in French and Italian, and had taught himself Norwegian in order to read Ibsen in the original.

This multilingual clerk had a jaundiced view of his colleagues:

This morning in the bank that German clerk informed us what his wife should be:

She should be able to cook well, to sew, to housekeep, and to play at least one musical instrument.

I suppose they’re all like that in Deutschland.

I am dead tired of their bello and bellezza.

A clerk here is named (he is round, bald, fat, voiceless) Bartoluzzi.

You pronounce it by inflating both cheeks and prolonging the u.

Every time I pass him I repeat the name to myself and translate ‘Good day, little bits of Barto.’

Another is named Simonetti:

They are all little bits of something or other, I think.

This is my first experience of clerks:

Do they all talk for five minutes about the position of a pen wiper?”

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Above: James Joyce

Joyce had other ideas: “I hope to find time to finish my novel in Rome within the year.”

But he had packed and gone before the year was out, having written nothing of consequence bar letters to his brother Stanislaus in Trieste.

Together with Nora Barnacle, his companion of two years, and their son Giorgio, he had spent a total of seven months and seven days in Rome, and hated the place.

James Joyce
Above: James Joyce

By November, Joyce’s landlady was tiring of his excessive alcohol abuse and requested that he leave the accommodation on Via Frattina.

Joyce expected to charm his way out of the tight spot but the Signora stuck firmly to her guns and Joyce found himself homeless with his young family.

After four days spent searching, the young writer moved into Via Monte Brianzo 51, near Piazza Navona.

By Christmas, Joyce was forced to take another job as a teacher, but it wasn’t enough and the family dined on pasta on a thoroughly depressing Christmas Day.

While he struggled to make ends meet in Rome nothing came from his pen.

He found no time to write and no immediate inspiration.

The Roman ruins compounded his misery.

He complained of nightmares involving “death, corpses, assassinations, in which I take an unpleasantly prominent part.”

Above: The Death of Caesar, Jean-Léon Gérôme, 1867

The intrigues and gore of ancient Rome infiltrated his psyche and it seems he began to develop a strange appreciation of his native Dublin, something not so keenly felt since his departure.

Irritations can create pearls.

The pearls in this case are Joyce’s two masterpieces, the short story “The Dead” and the novel Ulysses.

The seeds for both were sown in Rome.

Joyce’s letters from this period are filled with parallels between Rome and Dublin.

Samuel Beckett Bridge At Sunset Dublin Ireland (97037639) (cropped).jpeg
Above: Samuel Beckett Bridge, Dublin, Ireland

Photo of the Ponte Sant'Angelo bridge
Above: Ponte Sant’Angelo, Rome

The figure of the Jew, Leopold Bloom, in Ulysses, wandering the streets of a provincial capital, echoes Joyce’s position as a friendless expatriate bank clerk.

Poldy.png
Above: Drawing of Leopold Bloom by Joyce

Bloom’s facile, wide-ranging, restless mentality is that of the Roman flâneur.

Above: Le Flâneur, Paul Gavarni, 1842

(Flâneur is a French noun referring to a person, literally meaning “stroller“, “lounger“, “saunterer“, or “loafer“, but with some nuanced additional meanings. 

Flânerie is the act of strolling, with all of its accompanying associations.

A near-synonym of the noun is boulevardier.

Traditionally depicted as male, a flâneur is an ambivalent figure of urban affluence and modernity, representing the ability to wander detached from society with no other purpose than to be an acute observer of industrialized, contemporary life.

The flâneur was, first of all, a literary type from 19th century France, essential to any picture of the streets of Paris.

The word carried a set of rich associations: the man of leisure, the idler, the urban explorer, the connoisseur of the street.)

Something too of the tessellated sense of history, which Rome epitomises, has gone into Ulysses.

It was at this time that the ideas for his wonderful short story, The Dead, began their gestation.

Perhaps the simple Christmas lunch and Signora Dufour’s apparently barbarous treatment of his family led to dreams of more lavish feasts and what the story’s hero Gabriel Conroy refers to as unique Irish hospitality.

In the same breath Joyce, through Gabriel, a character all the while fixated on the attractions and trappings of continental Europe, acknowledges those things that Ireland has to offer the world by way of this tradition.

Rome’s somewhat crude irreverence for the dead who are constantly on display, whether through imperial Rome’s whimsical Caesars or greedy popes, is in sharp contrast to the quiet, melancholy image of Dublin covered in snow.

The romance and bombast of Michelangelo, Bernini and Borromini contrasts with the humble but no less passionate Michael Furey in The Dead who, we find out, courted Gabriel’s wife Gretta and died of consumption but may, as Gretta reveals, have “died for me”.

Eventually, Joyce had had enough and he decided to leave Rome.

The Dead by James Joyce | 9780979660795 | Paperback | Barnes & Noble®

The day before leaving he was given his last pay cheque from his bank job, and splashed out on a few farewell drinks.

As he drank, two men managed to get a look inside his wallet and when Joyce left the café they attacked and robbed him.

Luckily, he had left some of his pay at his lodgings and with it he packed his son and his wife onto a train for Trieste and left Rome.

He never returned.

Arrivederci Professore: Amazon.de: DVD & Blu-ray

Joyce felt he accomplished very little during his brief stay in Rome, but it had a large impact on his writing.

Though his new job took up most of his time, he revised Dubliners and worked on Stephen Hero.

Rome was the birthplace of the idea for “The Dead“, which would become the final story of Dubliners, and for Ulysses, which was originally conceived as a short story. 

His stay in the city was one of his inspirations for Exiles.

Exiles by James Joyce, New Directions, 1947 | Alvin lustig, Amazing book  covers, History design

Exiles is James Joyce’s only extant play and draws on the story of “The Dead“, the final short story in Joyce’s story collection Dubliners.

The play was rejected by W.B. Yeats for production by the Abbey Theatre.

Above: William Butler Yeats (1865 – 1939)

Its first major London performance was in 1970, when Harold Pinter directed it at the Mermaid Theatre.

Above: Harold Pinter (1930 – 2008)

In terms of both its critical and popular reception, Exiles has proven the least successful of all of Joyce’s published works.

In making his case for the defence of the play, Padraic Colum conceded:

Critics have recorded their feeling that Exiles has not the enchantment of Portrait of the Artist nor the richness of Ulysses.

They have noted that Exiles has the shape of an Ibsen play and have discounted it as being the derivative work of a young admirer of the great Scandinavian dramatist.”

Photographed by Carl Van Vechten, 1959.
Above: Padraic Colum (1881 – 1972)

The play follows four players and two couples, Richard Rowan, a writer and his “common-law wifeBertha, and Robert Hand with his cousin and previous lover Beatrice, both old friends of the previous couple.

The plot is deceptively simple:

Richard, a writer, returns to Ireland from Rome with Bertha, the mother of his illegitimate son, Archie.

While there, he meets his former lover and correspondent Beatrice Justice and former drinking partner and now successful journalist Robert Hand.

Robert was also Beatrice’s lover, and here the complications begin.

As jealousy develops throughout the relationships the action meditates mostly in a budding relationship between Hand and Bertha and thus in Hand‘s attempts at seduction with the lover of his friend.

Exiles eBook by James Joyce - 1230000190742 | Rakuten Kobo Greece

The first act takes place at Rowan‘s house where Hand makes his first advance at Bertha.

After kissing her “with passion” several times Hand requests she join him in his home for a second meeting later that evening.

Bertha in turn confides in Rowan and questions whether or not to accept his invitation.

To this, Rowan retorts she must do whatever she pleases.

Joyce, J: Exiles: A Critical Edition (Florida James Joyce) : Fargnoli, A.  Nicholas, Gillespie, Michael Patrick, Joyce, James: Amazon.de: Books

In the second act, Hand waits, expecting Bertha at the appointed hour but instead is surprised when Rowan appears.

Calmly, Rowan explains his knowledge of Hand‘s attempts at wooing Bertha but is interrupted when Bertha herself knocks at the door.

Rowan returns home, leaving his wife alone with Hand who continues his advances toward Bertha.

The act ends inconclusively, with Hand asking if Bertha loves him, and Bertha explaining:

I like you, Robert.

I think you are good.

Are you satisfied?”

Exiles - Hörbuch Download | James Joyce | Audible.de: Gelesen von Lance  Rasmussen, Jo Palfi, Elizabeth Klett, Graham Scott, Linda Barrans, Leanne  Yau

The third act returns to Rowan‘s home at seven o’clock the following morning.

Bertha‘s maid informs her of Rowan‘s departure from the home an hour earlier, as he left for a walk on the strand.

Printed in the morning newspapers is a favourable article written about Rowan, written the previous evening by Hand himself.

The events of the previous night between Bertha and Hand are unclear, as both parties agree it was a “dream“.

But appearances demonstrate Hand and Bertha shared “a sacred night of love“.

Hand reports to Rowan, assuring him Bertha in fact did not stay the night but instead Hand spent the night alone.

Claiming to have visited the Vice-Chancellor’s lodge, returned home to write the newspaper article, then gone to a nightclub where he picked up a divorcée and had sex with her (“what the subtle Duns Scotus calls ‘a death of the spirit’ took place“) in the cab on the way home.

JohnDunsScotus - full.jpg
Above: John Duns Scotus (1265 – 1308)

Following this conversation, Hand leaves for his cousin’s house in Surrey while Rowan and Bertha are reconciled.

Bertha admits that she longs to meet her lover, but asserts that the lover is Rowan himself.

The resolution of the play lies precisely in the sense of doubt about what occurred between Hand and Bertha between Acts Two and Three.

Rowan is wounded by the sense of doubt that he admits he longed for.

Indeed, he sees this sense of doubt as what enables him “to be united with Bertha in body and soul in utter nakedness”.

Exiles : James Joyce : 9780198800064

There are obvious parallels to be drawn with Joyce’s own life – Joyce and Nora Barnacle lived, unmarried, in Trieste, during the years the fictional Rowans were living in Rome.

During this time, Joyce and his lover considered themselves to be living in exile, directly mirroring the setting of Exiles.

Robert Hand too, draws a connection to Joyce’s personal life as he resembles two friends of Joyce’s, Oliver St. John Gogarty and Vincent Cosgrave, and even shares a few defining characteristics with them both.

Similarly, the character of Beatrice Justice has been said to reflect a cousin of Joyce’s, Elizabeth Justice, who died in 1912.

However, Exiles is by no means straightforwardly autobiographical.

The great question which Joyce sought to use as the basis for a drama was that of human freedom and human dignity.

It is exposed and focused in terms of love and sexual relationships.”

Exiles : James Joyce : 9798686447462

While in Rome, Joyce read the socialist historian Guglielmo Ferrero in depth.

Ferraro’s anti-heroic interpretations of history, arguments against militarism, and conflicted attitudes toward Jews would find their way into Ulysses, particularly in the character of Leopold Bloom

Guglielmo Ferrero.jpg
Above: Guglielmo Ferrero

Guglielmo Ferrero (1871 — 1942) was an Italian historian, journalist and novelist, author of the five-volume Greatness and Decline of Rome (published in English in 1909).

Ferrero devoted his writings to classical liberalism.

He opposed any kind of dictatorship and unlimited government.

He was nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature twenty times in six years.

Guglielmo Ferrero - Grandeur et décadence de Rome - - Catawiki

Born in Portici, near Napoli (Naples), Ferrero studied law in Pisa, Bologna and Torino (Turin).

Soon afterward he married Gina Lombroso, a daughter of Cesare Lombroso, the criminologist and psychiatrist with whom he wrote The Female OffenderThe Prostitute and The Normal Woman.

Above: Gina Lombroso (1872 – 1944)

From 1891 to 1894 Ferrero traveled extensively in Europe and in 1897 wrote The Young Europe, a book which had a strong influence over James Joyce.

Above: Monument to Giordano Bruno, Campo de’ Fiori, Rome

Joyce admired Bruno and attended the procession in his honour while in Rome.

(In The Young Europe, Ferrero, according to a radical-democratic political perspective and sociology, noted that in Latin countries, such as Italy, society was “governed by classes that do not represent productive work” and expressed a government that is ” thief and patron at the same time, stripper and almsgiver “, dominating an authoritarian and Caesarist state, which presented itself to the agricultural plebs essentially in the form of “gendarme and tax collector“, while in the societies of Northern Europe, where modern industrial capitalism, the enemy of aristocracies, was in full development, “all men, even the humblest, are collaborators of the universe of common work and therefore necessary elements of the whole“, because of a “fruitful and living justice in relations between men“. )

Above: Europa, Palazzio Ferreria, Valetta, Malta

After studying the history of Rome, Ferrero turned to political essays and novels (Between Two Worlds in 1913, Speeches to the Deaf in 1925 and The Two Truths in 1939).

When the fascist reign of the Black Shirts forced liberal intellectuals to leave Italy in 1925, Ferrero refused and was placed under house arrest.

Above: Blackshirts, Piazza di Siena, Rome, 1936

In 1929 Ferrero accepted a professorship at the Graduate Institute of International Studies in Geneva.

IHEID Logo 2013.tif

His last works (AdventureBonaparte in ItalyThe Reconstruction of EuropeThe Principles of Power and The Two French Revolutions) were dedicated to the French Revolution (1789 – 1799) and Napoleon Bonaparte (1769 – 1821).

Portrait of Napoleon in his late thirties, in high-ranking white and dark blue military dress uniform. In the original image he stands amid rich 18th-century furniture laden with papers, and gazes at the viewer. His hair is Brutus style, cropped close but with a short fringe in front, and his right hand is tucked in his waistcoat.
Above: The Emperor Napoleon in His Study at the Tuileries, Jacques-Louis David, 1812

Ferrero was invited to the White House in 1908 by Theodore Roosevelt, who had read The Greatness and Decline of Rome.

Ferrero gave lectures in the northeast of the USA which were collected and published in 1909 as Characters and Events of Roman History.

President Roosevelt - Pach Bros (cropped).jpg
Above: Theodore Roosevelt (1858 – 1919)

Ferrero died in 1942 at Mont Pèlerin, Switzerland.

MontPelerinFromMontreux.JPG
Above: Mont Pèlerin, France

In London, Elkin Mathews published Joyce’s Chamber Music on the recommendation of the British poet Arthur Symons.

Above: Arthur Symons (1865 – 1945)

Chamber Music is a collection of poems by James Joyce, published in May 1907.

The collection originally comprised 34 love poems, but two further poems were added before publication (“All day I hear the noise of waters” and “I hear an army charging upon the land“).

Although it is widely reported that the title refers to the sound of urine tinkling in a chamber pot, this is a later Joycean embellishment, lending an earthiness to a title first suggested by his brother Stanislaus and which Joyce (by the time of publication) had come to dislike:

The reason I dislike Chamber Music as a title is that it is too complacent“, he admitted to Arthur Symons in 1906.

I should prefer a title which repudiated the book without altogether disparaging it.”

ChamberMusicJoyce.jpg

Richard Ellmann reports (from a 1949 conversation with Eva Joyce) that the chamberpot connotation has its origin in a visit he made, accompanied by Oliver Gogarty, to a young widow named Jenny in May 1904.

Richard Ellmann.jpg
Above: Richard Ellmann (1918 – 1987)

The three of them drank porter while Joyce read manuscript versions of the poems aloud – and, at one point, Jenny retreated behind a screen to make use of a chamber pot.

Gogarty commented:

There’s a critic for you!“.

When Joyce later told this story to Stanislaus, his brother agreed that it was a “favourable omen“.

In Ulysses, Leopold Bloom reflects:

Chamber music.

Could make a pun on that.

In fact, the poetry of Chamber Music is not in the least bawdy, nor reminiscent of the sound of tinkling urine.

Although the poems did not sell well (fewer than half of the original print run of 500 had been sold in the first year), they received some critical acclaim. 

Ezra Pound admired the “delicate temperament” of these early poems, while Yeats described “I hear an army charging upon the land” as “a technical and emotional masterpiece“.

In 1909, Joyce wrote to his wife:

When I wrote Chamber Music, I was a lonely boy, walking about by myself at night and thinking that one day a girl would love me.”

James Joyce at six in 1888 in sailor suit with hands in pocket, facing the camera
Above: James Joyce, age 6, 1888

Nonetheless, Joyce was dissatisfied with his job, had exhausted his finances, and realised he’d need additional support when he learned Nora was pregnant again.

He left Rome after only seven months.

Arrivederci, Baby! (1966) - IMDb

Roma (Rome), the ‘Eternal City‘, is the capital and largest city of Italy and of the Lazio (Latium) region.

It is the famed city of the Roman Empire, the Seven Hills, La Dolce Vita (the sweet life), Vatican City and Three Coins in the Fountain.

Flag of Vatican City
Above: Flag of Vatican City

Rome, as a millennium-long centre of power, culture and religion, having been the centre of one of the globe’s greatest civilizations ever, has exerted a huge influence over the world in its 2,500 years of existence.

The historic centre of the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

UNESCO logo English.svg

With wonderful palaces, millennium-old churches and basilicas, grand romantic ruins, opulent monuments, ornate statues and graceful fountains, Rome has an immensely rich historical heritage and cosmopolitan atmosphere, making it one of Europe’s and the world’s most visited, famous, influential and beautiful capitals.

The Roman Empire in AD 117 at its greatest extent, at the time of Trajan's death (with its vassals in pink)[3]
Above: The Roman Empire at its greatest extent

Today, Rome has a growing nightlife scene and is also seen as a shopping heaven, being regarded as one of the fashion capitals of the world (some of Italy’s oldest jewellery and clothing establishments were founded in the city).

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With so many sights and things to do, Rome can truly be classified a “global city“.

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Ute (the wife) and I visited Rome for three days in April 2004.

I enjoyed playing tourist in Rome, but like Istanbul or Paris or New York, it is a metropolis too crowded and too expensive for me to ever consider my wanting to live there.

I have few memories of Rome.

Above: Trajan’s Market, Rome

I read your book
And I find it strange
That I know that girl

And I know her world
A little too well

I didn’t know
By giving my hand
That I would be written down, sliced around, passed down
Among strangers’ hands

Three days in Rome
Where do we go?
I’ll always remember
Three days in Rome

Never again
Would I see your face
You carry a pen and a paper,

And no time and no words you waste


Oh, you’re a voyeur

The worst kind of thief
To take what happened to us
To write down everything that went on between you and me

Three days in Rome
And I stand alone
I’ll always remember
Three days in Rome

And what do I get?
Do I get revenge?
While you lay it all out
Without any doubt

Of how this would end


Sometimes it goes
Sometimes we come
To learn by mistake that the love you once made
Can’t be undone

Three days in Rome
I laid my heart out
I laid my soul down
I’ll always remember

Three days in Rome.

45cat - Sheryl Crow - Tomorrow Never Dies (Full Length Version) / The Book  - A&M - UK - 582 456-7

I remember the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary….

1929 was the year the sacred area of Torre Argentina was excavated.

This was also the year the history of the cats’ residency began.

Stray and abandoned felines took refuge in the protected area below stree​t level.

From 19​​29 until 1993, the cats were more or less regulary fed by a succession of cat ladies or “gattare“.

One of the most famous of these cat lovers was the great Italian filmstar Anna Magnani.

While working at Teatro Argentina which borders the ruins, Ms. Magnani would spend her breaks feeding her four legged friends.

This film legend, famous for her heart-tugging performances, died in the 1960s.

Above: Anna Magnani (1908 – 1973)

Lia and Silvia started working with the cats in 1993 when they began helping a woman who was running the show alone: feeding, spaying and neutering all the cats.

Her generous efforts put her on the verge of an economic and emotional collapse.

Soon Lia and Silvia realised there was a lot more work than the three women could manage.

In that year the cat population was 90 and growing due to the irresponsibility of people abandoning their cats and kittens, perhaps to go on vacation.

And so, Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary was born.

Above: Lia and Silvia

Working conditions were primitive to say the least.

A cave like area under the street had been unwittingly created by the construction of the street and the pillars that sustain it long before the cat shelter began.

It had a floor space of about 100 square meters and it began as a night shelter for the cats and as a storage place for cat food.

It was a difficult and frustrating job.

Caring for more than 90 cats in a damp underground space, in many places so low that one cannot stand up and no electricity or running water.

For almost a year and a half Silvia and Lia worked under these conditions, hoping for a breakthrough or a guide through this dark period.

Their prayers were answered in 1995 when a savior arrived:

An English woman named Molga Salvalaggio.

She told Silvia and Lia about the wonderful achievements of certain English organizations who worked in animal protection and she put them in contact with the A.I.S.P.A. (Anglo-Italian Society for the Protection of Animals).

The A.I.S.P.A. was the first organisation to give material as well as moral support.

In addition, they introduced Silvia and Lia to English resources concerning stray cats and solutions to frequent problems who studied this invaluable information and began the slow process of imitating English role models.

The first job was to raise desperately needed funds.

The primitive location had one great advantage:

It was a tourist attraction because of the historical and archaeological significance of the ruins.

Painfully swallowing pride and embarrassment Silvia and Lia started approaching tourists who seemed more interested in the cats than the ruins and asked for donations.

Unbelievably, it worked!

Not only did they collect needed cash, they also managed to attract a certain number of volunteers:

Mostly women of many different nationalities, Italian, French, German, American, English, Brazilian and Dutch.

Torre Argentina became a sort of United Nations for cats.

To raise more money they started organizing fundraising dinners, raffles and flea market sales.​

In September 1998, US Navy Captain John Henriksen and his wife Cheryl generously opened their home to 120 people for a dinner, auction and raffle, the first Gala.

Later, Alexandra Richardson, wife to the British Ambassador allowed volunteers to hold a fundraiser/gala at her residence.

Several more galas followed the following years and provided badly needed funds.

With the newly found income, TA could afford cat food of better quality and the new burst of enthusiasm also motivated Silvia, Lia and their team of volunteers to become more professional and organized in daily operations.

When feeding, spaying, and veterinary care for the TA cats had become an affordable routine, TA started sharing funds also with the poorer sanctuaries around Rome, but with the emphasis on spaying and neutering.

They were, and still are, priorities.

Nelson, a one-eyed Torre Argentina cat was the main character in an award winning book by volunteer, Deborah D’Alessandro.

It was published in 1999 and soon became a bestseller at the shelter drawing attention to the plight of abandoned cats.

9788886061667: Nelson. The one-eyed king - Il re senza un occhio - AbeBooks  - Deborah D'Alessandro: 8886061668

At around the same time, Barbara Palmer published  “Cat Tales”:

Both books contributed to the growing reputation of the shelter.

Cat tales: Roma, Torre argentina - Praha - Sbazar.cz

In 2000, the Sanctuary entered a new era when we were given international exposure with the gift of a website, http://www.romancats.com from Dutch animal rescuers and professional web designers, Micha Postma and Christiaan Schipper.

On the home front, in 2001, the cats of Rome became a “bio-cultural heritage” by special proclamation of the city council.

Things were moving in the right direction:

As the Sanctuary grew, there was also a growing awareness  suffering of the stray animals and their need for protection.

The time was ripe for a public statement:

In 2003, Torre Argentina Sanctuary (TA) was instrumental in the organization of a demonstration march, Cat Pride, that had several thousand participants demanding protection and funding for Rome’s strays.

In 2004, the production of the DVD Cats of Rome  by Michael Hunt, contributed to a further diffusion of TA’s work and goals.

Amazon.com: Cats Of Rome : Narrated by Keith Burberry, Michael W. Hunt:  Movies & TV

I remember also, with as much great fondness as Torre Argentina, the Anglo-American Bookshop.

The Anglo American Bookshop - Wanted in Rome

The bookshop was founded in 1953 under the name of Interbook by an Englishman named Patrick Searle.

Later it was divided into two: Interbook and the Anglo-American Book Company.

The owner of the latter was General Edward Rush Duer Jr.

This choice was very courageous as the English language was not yet considered a language recognized worldwide for any type of exchange (economic, cultural, tourist, etc.).

The initial location was in the centre of Rome, on Via Firenze at the corner of Via Nazionale and later in Via del Boschetto where Arminio Lucchesi (45 years old) and Dino Donati (24 years old) worked, two young booksellers full of desire to do well and resourcefulness who came from previous book experiences.

The first had been in charge of the international department of the historic Bocca bookshop (in Piazza di Spagna, which unfortunately closed in the 90s to make way for a tour operator) and the second had been a willing salesman at the Modernissima bookshop (in via della Mercede, also closed in the 90s to make way for a pizzeria).

A few years later Donati found a shop in Via della Vite 57 (excellent for access to the public) and in company with Lucchesi and Mrs. Nadia Likatcheff Deur moved the business to these new premises where it has remained for over 40 years.

Anglo American Bookshop | Rome, Italy Shopping - Lonely Planet

The street was in the center of the capital but was in a location with little passage, the “neighbours” of the shop were a deposit of mineral water, a charcoal burner, a “sandwich shop” (which over time became the renowned Tuscan restaurant Mario).

At first, times were very difficult, the Second World War had just ended and illiteracy was still a problem felt in Italy.


At the beginning the sales situation was not at all rosy, but the situation improved day by day, Lucchesi was in charge of the internal management of the bookshop and Donati for the promotion and dissemination throughout Italy.

Soon the place became too small to manage the volume of books that arrived for the bookstore and those that were commissioned by customers, institutions or companies, and so they decided to rent an apartment in Via della Vite 68, in order to better manage the part of the commission that was getting bigger.

Anglo American Bookshop - Colonna - 3 tips from 98 visitors


In 1960 Mrs. Deur left for the US and, after a few months, her share was taken over by Donati and Lucchesi.

The bookshop and commission was now underway and the first profits and satisfactions had already arrived.

Luck was on their side, English had become the language of the future and interest grew more and more.

In 1972, part of the commission was transferred from Via della Vite 68 to Via della Vite 27 where the Technical and Scientific Department was located and established for reasons of space.

Otherwise Bookshop in Rome - An American in Rome


The next important step was the creation of the subscription service, one of the first in Italy and Europe.

The aim was to act as an intermediary between a multiplicity of publishers and large customers who needed to receive subscription journals to keep the current value of their studies or ongoing research very high.

The largest customers were, and are, universities, research institutions and medium-large companies engaged in long-term technological research.

At the end of the 70s there was the real explosion of activity and traffic.

The employees were more and more, the space was less and less, and the books and magazines published grew exponentially.


In 1978, Dino Donati took over his share from Arminio Lucchesi and distributed the company shares with his wife Carla and their children, Daniele and Cristina.

At the beginning of the 80s to meet further requests, two more apartments were rented in the same building in Via della Vite 27 outlining the following arrangement that still exists:

  • First and second floors: technical, scientific and commission department
  • Third floor: administration and management
  • Fourth floor: subscription service and data processing centre

To make the best use of the spaces of the small library, two architects were commissioned to renovate the library making it more welcoming and at the same time obtain useful spaces even in the smallest slot.

In 1981, the purchase of their first computer gave the start to the computerization of the entire society.

In 1986, the first XENIX multi-user system connected all the library departments.

The world’s first CD-ROM databases peeped out the door and the A-AB were among the first to consider and massively use them.

This was the beginning of the information and organizational revolution that has followed to this day.

English language bookshops in Rome - Wanted in Rome

At the end of the 80s the books in the library constantly present in stock had become over 80,000 and the small bookstore was bursting, so the sales staff were forced to invent unlikely positions to make sure that the books found a place.

In 1993, with considerable economic commitment, the library was moved from number 57 (about 40 square meters) to number 102 (about 180 square meters) always in Via della Vite where it is currently located.


Books finally breathe, customers too.

You don’t have to crowd to browse and evaluate a book before buying.

The books always on the shelves have reached over 150,000.


The 90s also brought the subscription service to the point of its maximum expansion with the Total service: a reception and delivery service designed for large companies and the most demanding libraries.

This led to the establishment of a company in New York the AABOOK Corp. where all US subscriptions are centralized and subsequently sent by express courier to Rome.

1997 was the year of the launch of the website and the beginning of e-commerce.

English language bookshops in Rome - Wanted in Rome

It was here I bought an English translation of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s Italian Journey, which in turn would inspire us to visit Casa di Goethe and the Keats-Shelley Memorial House.

It was here also I discovered the magazine Wanted in Rome:

Wanted in Rome | LinkedIn

Wanted in Rome is a monthly magazine in English for expatriates in Rome established in 1982.

The magazine covers Roman news stories that may be of interest to English and Italian speaking residents, and tourists as well.

The publication also offers classifieds, photos, information on events, museums, churches, galleries, exhibits, fashion, food, and local travel.

Wanted in Rome was founded in 1982 by two expats who identified the need of an aggregation magazine for the English-speaking community.

In 1997 it launched its website.

Wanted in Rome - June 2020 - Wanted in Rome

The Casa di Goethe is a museum in Rome, at Via del Corso 18, dedicated to Goethe, his Italian journey and his life at Rome in the years from 1786 through 1788.

During his journey Goethe wrote a journal and also many letters which would be published in 1817 as the Italian Journey.

House of goethe fassade.JPG

The Museum is located in the house and in the same rooms in which Goethe lived with his friend the German painter Johann Wilhelm Tischbein during his stay in Rome.

Above: Self Portrait, Johann Wilhelm Tischbein (1751 – 1829)

The permanent exhibition covers his life in Italy, his work and writing, and also about his private life and shows original documents concerning his life.

The second exhibition, which is always a temporary exhibition, often refers to arguments and themes which connect somehow the Italian and German cultures or talks about artists like:

  • Max Beckmann

Max Beckmann, photograph by Hans Möller,1922.jpg
Above: Max Beckmann (1884 – 1950)

  • Heinrich Mann

Heinrich Mann, 1906
Above: Heinrich Mann (1871 – 1950)

  • Thomas Mann

Thomas Mann in 1929
Above: Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

  • Andreu Alfaro

Andreu #Alfaro #artist | Escultura abstrata, Arte em cerâmica, Esculturas
Above: Andreu Alfaro (1929 – 2012)

  • Günter Grass

Grass in 2006
Above: Günter Grass (1927 – 2015)

  • Johann Gottfried Schadow (just to name a few) 

Above: Johann Gottfried Schadow (1764 – 1850)

  • Their experiences in Italy as well as their examinations of Goethe

Flag of Italy
Above: Flag of Italy

The Museum owns a library, which includes also the collection of Richard W. Dorn.

The Casa di Goethe, opened in 1997 and is administrated by the Association of Independent Cultural Institutes (AsKI) and directed by Ursula Bongaerts.

Casa di Goethe (@CasadiGoethe) / Twitter

The Keats–Shelley Memorial House is a writer’s house museum in Rome, commemorating the Romantic poets John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley.

The museum houses one of the world’s most extensive collections of memorabilia, letters, manuscripts, and paintings relating to Keats and Shelley, as well as Byron, Wordsworth, Robert Browning, Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Oscar Wilde, and others.

It is located on the second floor of the building situated just to the south of the base of the Spanish Steps and east of the Piazza do Spagna.

Keats-Shelley House.jpg
Above: Keats – Shelly House, beside the Spanish Steps, Rome

In November 1820, the English poet John Keats, who was dying of tuberculosis, came to Rome at the urging of friends and doctors who hoped that the warmer climate might improve his health.

Posthumous portrait of Keats by William Hilton, National Portrait Gallery, London (c. 1822)
Above: John Keats (1795 – 1821)

He was accompanied by an acquaintance, the artist Joseph Severn, who nursed and looked after Keats until his death, at age 25, on 23 February 1821, in this house. 

Visitors today can enter the second-floor bedroom in which the poet died in terrible agony, his devoted friend Joseph Severn at his side.

Above: Self Portrait, Joseph Severn (1793 – 1879)

Keats is buried in the city’s Non-Catholic Cemetery where his tomb – dedicated simply to a “young English poet” – continues to draw pilgrims almost two centuries after his death. 

Cimitero Acattolico Roma.jpg
Above: Cimitero Acattolico (Non-Catholic Cemetery), Rome

The walls were initially scraped and all things remaining in the room immediately burned (in accordance with the health laws of 19th century Rome) following the poet’s death.

The effort to purchase and restore the two-room apartment in which Keats spent his final days began in 1903 at the instigation of the American poet Robert Underwood Johnson. 

Robert Underwood Johnson in 1920.jpg
Above: Robert Underwood Johnson (1853 – 1937)

Assisted by interested parties representing America, England, and Italy, the house was purchased late in 1906 and dedicated in April 1909 for use by the Keats–Shelley Memorial Association.

The rooms then became known as the Keats–Shelley House.

During World War II, the Keats–Shelley House went “underground“, especially after 1943, in order to preserve its invaluable contents from falling into the hands of, and most likely being deliberately destroyed by, Nazi Germany.

External markings relating to the museum were removed from the building.

The Keats - Shelley House in Rome - Memorial House

Although the library’s 10,000 volumes were not removed, two boxes of artifacts were sent to the Abbey of Monte Cassino in December 1942 for safekeeping.

In October 1943, the Abbey’s archivist placed the two unlabelled boxes of Keats–Shelley memorabilia with his personal possessions so that they could be removed during the Abbey’s evacuation and not fall into German hands.

The items were reclaimed by the museum’s curator and returned to the Keats–Shelley House, where the boxes were reopened in June 1944 upon the arrival of the Allied forces in Rome.

Monte Cassino Opactwo 1.JPG
Above: Abbey of Monte Cassino, Italy

Rome’s Keats-Shelley House hosts a mysterious watercolour map on its steep, narrow stairwell where it is believed to have rested since the museum’s opening in 1909.

Painted by an unknown artist, the map depicts the area surrounding Piazza di Spagna, using blue motifs with calligraphy to indicate where visiting British and American writers and artists stayed during the 19th century.

By this time the network of streets around the Spanish Steps was already known as the “English ghetto” due to its popularity among wealthy British travellers who would conclude their grand tours of Europe in Rome.

The map contains around two dozen names – many of whose paths crossed – with several buildings hosting plaques boasting of their illustrious former residents.

Based on the information recorded in the map, which can also be viewed on the Keats-Shelley House website, it is possible to trace a roughly clockwise trail around the Tridente, a trident-shaped area of the centro storico fanning out from Porta del Popolo, once the main gateway to the city.

The walking tour spans nine decades, from 1817 to 1895, and takes a couple of hours at a leisurely pace. 

Tracing the footsteps of Rome's foreign writers and artists

1819 saw the arrival of English Romantic painter J. M. W. Turner (1775 – 1851).

It is not known where he stayed – perhaps at Palazzo Poli near the Trevi Fountain from which his one surviving letter was written.

However we know that on his return trip in August 1828 he took lodgings at Piazza Mignanelli 12, a stone’s throw from what is now the Keats-Shelley House.

Turner’s exhibition in December 1828 at Palazzo Trulli (demolished half a century later to make way for Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) was attended by over a thousand visitors.

However, the works received a predominantly unfavourable response, according to Turner expert David Blayney Brown.

On 3 January 1829 Turner departed Rome for the last time, although the city’s ruins were to feature prominently in his future work.

Joseph Mallord William Turner Self Portrait 1799.jpg
Above: Joseph Mallord William Turner (1775 – 1851)

Oh, Rome!

My country!

City of the soul!

The Romantic poet Lord Byron (1788 – 1824) is undoubtedly a most colourful character.

Fleeing debts and a desperate personal situation, Byron left England in 1816, never to return, living mainly in Italy until his death in modern-day Greece aged 36.

Byron befriended the Shelleys at Lake Geneva before travelling to Italy, where he was to spend seven years, predominantly in Venice, Pisa and Ravenna.

According to popular myth, he lodged at Piazza di Spagna 66, opposite the Keats-Shelley House, in 1817.

On his return to Ravenna he wrote the 4th canto of his epic narrative poem Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage, about half of which relates to Rome. 

Portrait of Byron
Above: Lord George Gordon Byron (1788 – 1824)

The map features a couple of names who fit into neither painter nor writer category.

One of these figures is James Clark (1788 – 1870), a Scottish doctor who operated a thriving medical practice in Piazza di Spagna from 1819 until 1826, during which time poor Keats was one of his patients.

Despite rising to become physician to Queen Victoria, recent research suggests that Clark misdiagnosed Keats’ illness, compounding the poet’s final months of agony by enforcing starvation and blood lettings.

The doctor’s exact address is unknown but, according to the American author John Evangelist Walsh in his book In Darkling I Listen: The Last Days and Death of John Keats, Clark lived “across the steps” from the Keats – Shelley House. 

Sir-James-Clark-1788-1870.jpg
Above> Sir James Clark (1788 – 1870)

Ascending the steps to Trinità dei Monti, the map lists the American landscape painter Thomas Cole (1801 – 1848) as living on Via Sistina, without a street number, but with the vital clue that he was based at a studio once used by Claude Lorrain, from 1831 – 1832 and again in 1841.

According to a drawing in the collection of the British Museum, the location of Lorrain’s former studio corresponds to Via Sistina 66, the building wedged between the start of Via Sistina and Via Gregoriana, opposite today’s Hotel Hassler. 

Thomas Cole.jpg
Above: Thomas Cole (1801 – 1848)

Next door at Via Sistina 64 lived the Irish portrait painter Amelia Curran (1775 – 1847), who moved to Rome in or around 1818, eking out a living painting portraits and copying old Masters.

She is best known for her portrait of her friend Percy Bysshe Shelley, quill in hand, which was presumably painted at this address and is now in the National Portrait Gallery in London.

Above: Portrait of Percy Bysshe Shelley, Amelia Curran

Curran died in 1847, her funeral celebrated at the Franciscan church of St Isidore’s on Via degli Artisti 41.

Here she is commemorated with a memorial featuring palette and brushes, carved by prominent Rome-based Irish sculptor John Hogan (1800 – 1858).

Rome – St Isidore's College – Irish Franciscans
Above: St. Isidore’s, Rome

On 7 May 1819, Percy Bysshe Shelley (1792 – 1822) and his wife Mary Shelley (1797 – 1851), fresh from penning her Gothic masterpiece Frankenstein, left their lodgings at Palazzo Verospi on Via del Corso 374 to move next door to Curran on Via Sistina 65, against the wishes of the family doctor, who advised Shelley to escape the city’s “mal’aria”.

Half-length portrait of a woman wearing a black dress sitting on a red sofa. Her dress is off the shoulder. The brush strokes are broad.
Above: Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley (1797 – 1851)

Although the elevated Via Sistina had the “best air in Rome” according to Shelley, one month after their move the Shelley’s three-year-old son William “Willmouse” died of a fever, most likely malaria.

The heartbroken couple left Rome for the last time on 10 June 1819, after burying the boy, their third child to die, at the Non-Catholic Cemetery.

Three and a half years later Shelley’s ashes would be interred in the same cemetery after his tragic death, aged 29, during a storm off the Tuscan coast near Lerici.

Above: Posthumous Portrait of Shelley Writing “Prometheus Unbound” in Italy, Joseph Severn, 1845

Veering slightly off-course now, turn left half-way down Via Sistina onto Via di Porta Pinciana.

At the top of the street Palazzo Laranzani, number 37, hosted Nathaniel Hawthorne (1804 – 1864) in 1858.

Hawthorne in the 1860s
Above: Nathaniel Hawthorne (1804 – 1864)

Hawthorne overcame his initial misgivings of Rome’s “wicked filth” to become enraptured with the city:

His 1858 Gothic romance The Marble Faun was inspired after seeing a woodland scene of mythological sculpture in Villa Borghese.

Hawthorne was affected profoundly by the tragic tale of Roman noblewoman Beatrice Cenci – who also inspired Shelley’s five-act drama The Cenci – and her portrait attributed to Guido Reni, which can be seen today at Palazzo Barberini. 

The Marble Faun.jpg

Turning back downhill towards Via Sistina, take the last left onto Via degli Artisti.

From 1821 until 1824, when the street was still called Via di S. Isidoro, it hosted the English painter Joseph Severn (1793-1879) who lived in a large apartment at number 18, today the Hotel degli Artisti.

Severn is linked eternally with Keats with whom he travelled to Rome in 1820 and whom he nursed devotedly in his dying days.

Severn would outlive Keats by almost six decades, becoming an accomplished painter and a highly respected figure among Rome’s English-speaking community.

In 1841 Severn moved back to England.

However, 20 years later he returned to Rome as British Consul, a post he held for 11 years.

When he died, aged 81, there was outrage that his resting place at the Non-Catholic Cemetery was not next to Keats.

Several years later, Severn was reinterred beside his old friend.

At the bottom of Via Sistina, cross over Piazza Barberini and up Via delle Quattro Fontane to Palazzo Barberini, home to Italy’s national gallery of ancient art.

The American neoclassical sculptor and art critic William Wetmore Story (1819 – 1895) lived here with his family from 1856, taking studios on nearby Via di S. Niccolò da Tolentino 4.

For the next four decades his apartment on the palace’s piano nobile was a bustling meeting place for distinguished expatriates, from Robert and Elizabeth Barrett Browning to Henry James.

Above: William Wetmore Story

When his wife Emelyn died in 1894, Story carved the poignant Angel of Grief in the Non-Catholic Cemetery.

The much-replicated memorial was Story’s last major work and became the artist’s resting place a year later on his death, aged 78. 

Above: Angel of Grief, Rome

Returning to Piazza Barberini, turn left down Via del Tritone and at Largo del Tritone turn right and then first left onto Via della Mercede.

When the Scottish poet and novelist Sir Walter Scott (1771 – 1832) undertook his Grand Tour of Italy in 1832, he had achieved international acclaim for historical novels including Ivanhoe and Rob Roy and poems such as The Lady of the Lake (some of which inspired well-known Italian operas).

However despite being greeted with much fanfare, Scott was in failing health by the time he reached Rome.

He stayed at Via della Mercede 11 from 16 April until 11 May 1832 in the same palazzo in which Bernini had lived and died two centuries earlier.

The building’s exterior hosts a plaque dedicated to Scott, who died on his return to Scotland several months later.

Portrait of Sir Walter Scott and his deerhound, "Bran" in 1830 by John Watson Gordon
Above: Sir Walter Scott

Continue along Via della Mercede, cross Via del Corso, into Piazza del Parlamento to the rear of today’s chamber of deputies and along Via dei Prefetti to number 17, home to Samuel Morse (1791-1872) from February 1830 to January 1831, as commemorated by a plaque over the door.

This American painter of portraits and historical scenes is best remembered as the inventor of the Morse Code.

An outspoken opponent of “popery”, it is said that while in Rome the staunchly Calvinist Morse caused a stir by refusing to take off his hat in the presence of the pontiff.

Samuel Morse 1840.jpg
Above: Samuel Morse

The next side-street to the right, Vicolo del Divino Amore, meanders to Palazzo Borghese where Lady Gwendoline Talbot (1817 – 1840) moved from her Alton Towers family estate in Staffordshire following her 1835 marriage to Prince Marcantonio Borghese.

Described by King William IV as the “greatest beauty in the realm“, Gwendoline was known in Rome for her tireless charity work and ministry to the sick.

Princess Gwendoline came into her own in the aftermath of the cholera epidemic that ravaged the Eternal City in 1837.

That year 9,752 victims were struck by the disease in Rome with 5,479 deaths, in a city with little more that 150,000 inhabitants.

The epidemic lasted from the end of July until 15 October, when crowds flocked to St. Maria Maggiore to celebrate the end of the pestilence.

It was with great reluctance that the princess withdrew with her family to their home in Frascati, Villa Mondragone, during those summer months to avoid the danger of contagion.

On her return, however, she threw herself immediately into relief work among the survivors, her prime concern being the infants orphaned by the plague.

She engaged the well-off families of Rome to help her and visited the homes of the poor and destitute, bringing food, clothes and medicine to the needy.

She had no qualms about washing, cleaning and feeding them, sometimes slipping out of the Palazzo Borghese in disguise to conceal her movements.

This led to some embarrassing moments.

On one occasion she was followed by a member of the papal bodyguard, intrigued by her gracious but mysterious aura.

Though somewhat abashed by his proposals, the princess nonetheless stood her ground and invited the gallant into the humble dwelling she was visiting.

Taken aback at the sight of the haggard mother and children who warmly greeted the princess as their benefactor, the young dandy was shamed into leaving a generous offering for their upkeep before he hastily withdrew.

She died of scarlet fever aged just 22, and her tomb in the Borghese Chapel at the Basilica of St. Maria di Maggiore carries the inscription “madre dei poverelli”.

Above: Lady Gwendoline is buried in the crypt under the Borghese Chapel in the Basilica di St. Maria Maggiore.

Shortly after her death the couple’s three sons died of measles however their daugher Agnese survived.

Incidentally, three years before her own marriage in Rome, Gwendoline’s elder sister Mary had married Prince Filippo Doria. 

The whole city was plunged into grief at the news of Princess Gwendoline’s death.

On the night of 30 October, the funeral cortege left the Borghese Palace and, followed by massive crowds, made its way along the Corso, Piazza Venezia and the Baths of Trajan before turning left up the slopes of the Quirinal Hill.

The procession halted at the Palazzo Quirinale, where Pope Gregory XVI came to his balcony and blessed the remains.

Declaring that her death was a public calamity, he gave orders that the great portal of St. Maria Maggiore be opened, a privilege reserved for the noblest Roman families.

Gregory XVI.jpg
Above: Pope Gregory XVI (né Bartolomeo Alberto Cappellari) (1765 – 1846)

Bearing the inscription: Qui riposano le ceneri della madre dei poverelli, la Principessa Guendolina Borghese, Nata a Londra, dal conte de Shrewsbury, morta a 22 anni, il 27 ottobre 1840, the Princess’s coffin was interred in the family vault below the altar in the Borghese Chapel in St. Maria Maggiore.

The funeral oration at the solemn obsequies for the princess in the church of St. Carlo al Corso was delivered by the Rev. Charles Michael Baggs, rector of the Venerable English College in Rome.

In the course of his discourse he remarked that the curate of the parish of St. Rocco, near the Mausoleum of Augustus, had claimed that the Princess knew his parishioners better than he did himself, and counselled him thus:

Fear not, lest you should praise her too highly.

Be sure that whatever you may say of her will fall short of her deserts.”

The orator claimed that Gwendoline’s only fault was to have been liberal beyond her ample means and continued as follows:

Her private fortune was entirely devoted to the poor.

And for their sake she sometimes contracted debts, which were generously paid by the Prince her husband, who admired and encouraged her benevolence.

When you next enter the Basilica of St. Maria Maggiore take note of the icon above the high altar, the Salus Populi Romani, an image of the Virgin Mary that was carried through the streets of Rome for the first time in over 200 years during the cholera epidemics of 1835 and 1837.

Roma - 2016-05-23 - Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore - 2957.jpg
Above: St. Maria Maggiore, Rome

Spare a thought too for the young princess who lies buried in the Borghese crypt below the altar, a lady whose devotion to the survivors of the epidemic was such that she earned the title:

Mother of the poor.

Princess Gwendoline: Rome's Mother of the Poor
Above: Gwendoline Talbot

Follow Via Borghese onto Via di Ripetta which the map lists as the 1859 address of Irish-born art historian Anna Brownell Jameson (1794 – 1860).

According to her biography by niece Gerardine Bate, Jameson occupied a “pleasant apartment close by the Tiber façade of the Palazzo Borghese, looking out over the river at the point known as the Porto di Ripetta.”

Jameson also stayed at an unknown address in Piazza di Spagna in 1847, after  making part of the journey from Paris to Rome with the Brownings – to undertake research for the best-selling work on which her reputation rests: Sacred and Legendary Art.

Jameson died before finishing the final segment of her celebrated series which was completed by Lady Eastlake, wife of English painter Charles Eastlake, as The History of Our Lord in Art

Anna Brownell Jameson 1844.jpg
Above: Anna Brownell Jameson

Follow Via di Ripetta into Piazza del Popolo, turning right past the twin churches onto Via del Babuino.

The first left is Via della Fontanella, where #4 hosted the studios of Welsh sculptor John Gibson (1790-1866) from 1818 until his death four decades later.

Gibson was originally the star pupil of Venetian master Antonio Canova and later Denmark’s Bertel Thorvaldsen before going on to make his fortune from monumental commissions, mainly from patrons in England.

He is buried in the Non-Catholic Cemetery.

John Gibson by Margaret Sarah Carpenter (née Geddes).jpg
Above: John Gibson

Although not listed on the map it is worth mentioning Gibson’s only protégée Harriet Hosmer (1830-1908), who became the most distinguished female sculptor in America in the 19th century.

Hosmer studied under Gibson from 1853 to 1860, during which time she became good friends with the Brownings and the Storys.

In addition to her artistic prowess and ferocious work ethic, the emancipated Hosmer raised eyebrows by riding her horse alone around the city at all times of night, and even rode from Rome to Florence “for a lark”.

Harriet hosmer.jpg
Above: Harriet Hosmer

Contuining down Via del Babuino, past All Saints’ Anglican Church, a bastion of British life in Rome since it opened in 1887, the map lists English author George Eliot (1819 – 1880) as residing at Hotel Amerique in 1860.

The hotel no longer exists but the building can be found at Via del Babuino 79.

While touring Italy Eliot conceived the idea for her historical novel Romola as well as gathering background material for her future masterpiece Middlemarch, completed in 1871.

The story’s central characters Dorothea and Casaubon honeymooned at a “boudoir of a handsome apartment in the Via Sistina.” 

Portrait of George Eliot (Mary Ann Evans) by Francois D'Albert Durade, 1850
Above: Mary Ann Evans (aka George Eliot)

Turn left into Vicolo dell’Orto di Napoli and straight ahead lies Via Margutta, a greenery-draped street long associated with painters and art studios.

According to the map – perhaps incorrectly – Sir Thomas Lawrence (1769 – 1830) stayed at number 53 in 1822.

This leading English portraitist travelled Europe painting foreign sovereigns and diplomats, including Pope Pius VII, and was hosted at the Palazzo del Quirinale from May 1819 until January 1820.

Subsequently, as president of the Royal Academy, Lawrence granted his cautious approval and funding to Rome’s fledgling British Academy of Arts, established in 1821 by a group of artists led by Severn.

This life drawing academy was based initially at Severn’s apartments on Via degli Artisti and then moved to Via Margutta 53b from 1895 until its closure in January 1936.

Self portrait of Sir Thomas Lawrence.jpg
Above: Unfinished self portrait, Sir Thomas Lawrence

Back on Via del Babuino continue towards Piazza di Spagna, taking the second right onto Via Vittoria until the street meets Via Mario de’ Fiori.

The map lists this corner building, Palazzo Rondanini, as hosting the Romantic poet and former banker Samuel Rogers (1763-1855) while he put the final touches to Italy, a sumptuous edition of verse tales illustrated with vignettes by Turner, in 1829.

Less known today, Rogers was highly prominent in his time, penning hugely popular poems such as The Pleasures of Memory.

In 1850, on the death of Wordsworth, he declined the offer of Poet Laureate due to his age.

Rogers first visited Rome in 1815 and again in 1822, when he met Byron and Shelley in Pisa.

Samuel Rogers
Above: Samuel Rogers

Take the next left onto Via Bocca di Leone where, at number 43, the poets Robert Browning (1812 – 1889) and Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806 – 1861) spent two winters, in 1853 and 1858, commemorated by a plaque in their honour.

They returned to Rome for the winter of 1859, staying at Via del Tritone 28, and spent the following winter at Via Sistina 126.

Less than a month after leaving Rome on 1 June 1861 Elizabeth died in Florence in her husband’s arms, “smilingly, happily, and with a face like a girl’s”.

She is buried in the city’s English Cemetery.

Robert died in Venice in 1889 and is buried in Poets’ Corner at Westminster Abbey.

The Brownings are also remembered with a writers’ museum at their former Casa Guidi residence in Florence.

Above: Portraits of Elizabeth Barrett Browning and Robert Browning

Continuing along Via Bocca di Leone we reach Hotel d’Inghilterra at number 14, where the American novelist Henry James (1843-1916) stayed in 1869, when it was called Hotel d’Angleterre.

From here the author immediately reeled through Rome’s streets “in a fever of enjoyment”.

His arrival coincided with the dying days of papal Rome, an era he was to mourn in subsequent years.

Considered among the greatest novelists in the English language, James was inspired by the social and cultural interplay between Americans, English people and continental Europeans.

His experience of life in Rome is referenced in his novel Portrait of a Lady, whose central character Isabel Archer lived unhappily at the Palazzo Roccanero on an unnamed street off Piazza Farnese.

James in 1913
Above: Henry James

Turning back a few paces, take the first right onto Via dei Condotti which hosted the former Hotel d’Allemagne, owned by the German family of watercolourist Ettore Roesler Franz, whose romantic paintings of Rome and its surroundings are still popular today.

Ettore Roesler Franz.jpg
Above: Ettore Roesler Franz (1845 – 1907)

It was here that the English writer William Makepeace Thackeray (1811 – 1863) stayed on his first visit to Rome during 1844 – 1845.

Thackeray returned to the hotel in 1853 with his daughters Anne Isabella and Jane but soon moved to a large apartment at Palazzo Poniatowski, at nearby Via della Croce 81, on the advice of the Brownings.

Anne Isabella wrote of “feasting on cakes and petits fours” from the Spillmann pastry shop below.

During this period Thackeray wrote and produced illustrations of The Rose and the Ring, a story conceived in the Christmas period of 1853 to entertain the daughters and children of friends, including Pen Browning and Edith Story.

Describing a “gay and pleasant English colony in Rome”, Thackeray wrote in his memoir The Newcomes:

The ancient city of the Cæsars, the august fanes of the popes, with their splendour and ceremony, are all mapped out and arranged for English diversion.”

1855 daguerreotype of William Makepeace Thackeray by Jesse Harrison Whitehurst
Above: William Makepeace Thackeray

On returning full-circle to the foot of the Spanish Steps, how better to conclude the map-inspired tour than taking a coffee or aperitif at the Caffè Greco.

Established in 1760, this venerable institution was frequented by most of the people on this list (although Hawthorne was not a fan), their memories enshrined today with portraits and literary memorabilia throughout the bar.

The Antico Caffè Greco, sometimes simply referred to as Caffè Greco) is a historic landmark café which opened on Via dei Condotti.

It is the oldest bar in Rome and the 2nd oldest in Italy, after Caffè Florian in Venice.

The café was named after its Greek (Greco in Italian) owner, who opened it in 1760. 

Above: Caffè Greco, Ludwig Passini, 1856

Historic figures who have had coffee there include: 

  • Stendhal

Stendhal, by Olof Johan Södermark, 1840
Above: French writer Marie-Henri Beyle (aka Stendhal) (1783 – 1842)

  • Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

Goethe in 1828, by Joseph Karl Stieler
Above: German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749 – 1832)

  • Arthur Schopenhauer

Arthur Schopenhauer by J Schäfer, 1859b.jpg
Above: German philosopher Arthur Schopenhauer (1788 – 1860)

  • Bertel Thorvaldsen

Karl Begas 001.jpg
Above: Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770 – 1844)

  • Mariano Fortuny

Marià Fortuny - Self-portrait - Google Art Project.jpg
Above: Spanish painter Mariano Fortuny (1838 – 1874)

  • Byron

Above: English poet Lord Byron (1788 – 1824)

  • Georges Bizet

Above: French composer Georges Bizet (1838 – 1875)

  • Hector Berlioz

portrait of white man in early middle age, seen in left profile; he has bushy hair and a neckbeard but no moustache.
Above: French composer Louis-Hector Berlioz (1803 – 1869)

  • Johannes Brahms

Above: German composer Johannes Brahms (1833 – 1897)

  • Franz Liszt

Franz Liszt 1858.jpg
Above: Hungarian composer Franz Liszt (1811 – 1886)

  • John Keats

Above: Statue of English poet John Keats (1795 – 1821) , Chichester, England

  • Henrik Ibsen

Above: Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen (1828 – 1906)

  • Hans Christian Andersen

Andersen in 1869
Above: Danish author Hans Christian Andersen (1805 – 1875)

  • Felix Mendelssohn

Above: German composer Felix Mendelssohn (1809 – 1847)

  • James Joyce

Picture of James Joyce from 1922 in three-quarters view looking downward
Above: Irish writer James Joyce (1882 – 1941)

  • Gabriele D’Annunzio

Gabriele D'Anunnzio.png
Above: Italian writer Gabriele D’Annunzio (1863 – 1938)

  • François-René de Chateaubriand

Anne-Louis Girodet-Trioson 006.jpg
Above: French writer / diplomat François-René de Chateaubriand (1768 – 1848)

  • Orson Welles

Above: American actor Orson Welles (1915 – 1985) as the octogenarian Captain Shotover, Mercury Theatre production of Heartbreak House, Time, 9 May 1938

  • Mark Twain

Twain in 1907
Above: American writer Samuel Langhorne Clemens (aka Mark Twain) (1835 – 1910)

  • Friedrich Nietzsche

Nietzsche187a.jpg
Above: German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche (1844 – 1900)

  • Thomas Mann

Above: German writer Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

  • Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres

Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres.jpg
Above: French painter Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres (1780 – 1867)

  • Nikolai Gogol

Daguerreotype of Gogol taken in 1845 by Sergei Lvovich Levitsky (1819–1898)
Above: Russian writer Nikolai Gogol (1809 – 1852)

  • Edvard Grieg

Edvard Grieg (1888) by Elliot and Fry - 02.jpg
Above: Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg (1843 – 1907)

  • Antonio Canova

Antonio Canova Selfportrait 1792.jpg
Above: Italian sculptor Antonio Canova (1757 – 1822)

  • Giorgio de Chirico

Giorgio de Chirico (portrait).jpg
Above: Italian Giorgio de Chirico (1888 – 1978)

  • Guillaume Apollinaire

Photograph of Guillaume Apollinaire in spring 1916 after a shrapnel wound to his temple
Above: French writer Guillaume Apollinaire (1880 – 1918)

  • Charles Baudelaire

Charles Baudelaire by Étienne Carjat, 1863
Above: French poet Charles Baudelaire (1821 – 1867)

  • Richard Wagner

Above: German composer Richard Wagner (1813 – 1883)

  • Carlo Levi

Carlolevi.jpg
Above: Italian painter / writer Carlo Levi (1902 – 1985)

  • María Zambrano  

María Zambrano ca. 1918.JPG
Above: Spanish writer / philosopher María Zambrano (1904 – 1991)

  • Lawrence Ferlinghetti

Lawrence Ferlinghetti in 1965
Above: American poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti (1919 – 2021)

  • Giacomo Casanova

Casanova ritratto.jpg
Above: Italian adventurer Giacomo Casanova (1725 – 1798)

For more than two centuries and a half, the Caffè Greco has remained a haven for writers, politicians, artists and notable people in Rome.

However, in 2017, the owner of the building asked for a raise of its monthly rent from the current €18,000 to €120,000.

As of 23 October 2019, despite being protected by the Department of Beni Culturali, the café is under the risk of closing due to the expiration of its rental contract.

Above: Caffè Greco, Rome

The map also includes a few rather obscure names at the expense of towering literary figures, such as Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870) who stayed in Rome in early 1845 while gathering material for his book Pictures from Italy, or Thomas Hardy (1840-1928) whose 1887 visit inspired the poem Rome at the Pyramid of Cestius Near the Graves of Shelley and Keats.

Charles Dickens
Above: Charles Dickens

Hardy between about 1910 and 1915
Above: Thomas Hardy

Another glaring omission is Edith Wharton (1862 – 1937), whose regular travels around Italy in the late 19th century resulted in several erudite guides and travel tales, once describing Rome as exciting “a passion of devotion such as no other city can inspire.”

Wharton, c. 1895
Above: Edith Wharton (née Edith Newbold Jones)

Also omitted is the far less than impressed Mark Twain (1835 – 1910), who in 1867 felt that he had been cheated of discovering anything in Rome as it had all been experienced before.

Mark Twain - The Innocents Abroad.jpg

Finally, perhaps due to its timeline or maybe the attendant scandal, the map fails to record the three-month stay at Hotel d’Inghilterra of Oscar Wilde (1854 – 1900), six months before his death in Paris. 

Wilde in 1882
Above: Oscar Wilde

But this is not Keats’ or Severn’s, Turner’s or Clark’s, Byron’s or Shelley’s, Hawthorne’s or Goethe’s, Story’s or Scott’s, Morse’s or Talbot’s, Jameson’s or Gibson’s, Hosmer’s or Eliot’s, Lawrence’s or Rogers’, Thackeray’s or James’, the Brownings’ or Dickens’, Hardy’s or Wharton’s, Wilde’s or Twain’s story.

Nor will we linger in Rome…..

Above: Aerial view of Rome

Joyce returned to Trieste in March 1907, but was unable to find full-time work.

He went back to being an English instructor, working part time for Berlitz and giving private lessons. 

Flag of Trieste
Above: Flag of Trieste

The author Aron Hector (Ettore) Schmitz, better known by pen name Italo Svevo, was one of his students.

Svevo was a Catholic of Jewish origin who became one of the models for Leopold Bloom

Joyce learned much of what knew about Judaism from him.

The two become lasting friends and mutual critics.

Svevo supported Joyce’s identity as an author, helping him work through his writer’s block with Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man.

Svevo.jpg
Above: Aron Hector (Ettore) Schmitz (aka Italo Svevo)





Aron Hector (Ettore) Schmitz (1861 – 1928), better known by the pseudonym Italo Svevo, was an Italian writer, businessman, novelist, playwright and short story writer.

A close friend of Irish novelist and poet James Joyce, Svevo was considered a pioneer of the psychological novel in Italy and is best known for his classic modernist novel Zeno’s Conscience (La coscienza di Zeno) (1923), a work that had a profound effect on the movement.

Above: Italo Svevo

Born in Trieste as Aron Ettore Schmitz to a Jewish German father and an Italian mother, Svevo was one of seven children and grew up enjoying a passion for literature from a young age, reading Goethe, Schiller, Shakespeare, and the classics of French and Russian literature.

Svevo was a citizen of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until the end of the First World War.

He spoke Italian as a second language (as he usually spoke the Triestine dialect).

Due to his Germanophone ancestry through his father, he and his brothers were sent to a boarding school near Würzburg, Germany, where he learnt fluent German.

Marienberg wuerzburg.jpg
Above: Würzburg, Germany

After returning to Trieste in 1880, Svevo continued his studies for a further two years at Istituto Revoltella before being forced to take financial responsibility when his father filed for bankruptcy after his once successful glassware business failed.

This 20-year period as a bank clerk at Unionbank of Vienna served as inspiration for his first novel One Life (Una vita) (1892).

During his time at the bank, Svevo contributed to Italian-language socialist publication L’Indipendente, and began writing plays (which he rarely finished) before beginning work on Una vita in 1887.

Una vita eBook von Italo Svevo – 9788833464756 | Rakuten Kobo Österreich

(The plot of Una vita:

Alfonso Nitti, a shy young intellectual with literary aspirations, leaves his home in the country where his mother lives to go to Trieste – though the city is not named – and work in a white collar job, as a copy clerk in Maller’s bank.

One day, he is invited to the house of his boss and of his daughter Annetta who knows Macario, a young man with whom Alfonso is friends.

Annetta, like Alfonso, is interested in literature, and holds a weekly soiree to which several suitors are invited.

Alfonso joins this, and he and Annetta begin to co-author a novel.

Alfonso accepts this project out of self-interest, having no respect for Annetta‘s literary abilities, but ingratiatingly allows her to control the project so that they can be together in the hope of winning her hand.

He soon convinces himself that he loves her, but realises that at the same time he despises her.

Eventually he seduces Annetta but then, on the verge of marrying her, he flees on the advice of Francesca, her father’s mistress, who warns him that the marriage would be a failure.

She predicts that while he is away Annetta will forget him and marry a rival.

By chance, while he is away, he is delayed by the prolonged illness of his dying mother, and Francesca‘s prediction proves correct.

Meanwhile Annetta has confessed to her father that Alfonso compromised her and, although Alfonso is relieved at not having to keep his promise to Annetta, on his return to the bank he is treated with hostility by his employer.

He decides to live a life of contemplation, away from passions.

But after discovering that Annetta is engaged to his acquaintance Macario, whom he dislikes, he nevertheless feels jealous.

He makes a last-ditch bid to speak to Annetta but is rejected.

He attempts to assuage his conscience by giving a dowry to his landlady’s daughter so that she can marry respectably but, following a demotion at the bank, he accidentally insults Frederico, Annetta’s brother, and is obliged to accept a duel.

Before this can take place, he decides to kill himself, with feelings of calm and relief at ending his maladjusted existence.)

Italo Svevo.jpg
Above: Italo Svevo

Svevo adhered to a humanistic and democratic socialism which predisposed him to pacifism and to advocate a European economic union after the war.

Following the death of his parents, Svevo married his cousin Livia Veneziani in a civil ceremony in 1896.

Soon after, Livia convinced him to convert to Catholicism and take part in a religious wedding (probably after a troublesome pregnancy).

Personally, however, Svevo was an atheist.

He became a partner in his wealthy father-in-law’s paint business that specialized in manufacturing industrial paint that was used on naval warships.

He became successful in growing the business and after trips to France and Germany, set up a branch of the company in England.

Svevo lived for part of his life in Charlton, southeast London, while working for a family firm.

He documented this period in his letters to his wife which highlighted the cultural differences he encountered in Edwardian England.

His old home at 67 Charlton Church Lane now carries a blue plaque.

In 1923, Italo Svevo published the psychological novel La coscienza di Zeno.

The work, showing the author’s interest in the theories of Sigmund Freud, is written in the form of the memoirs of Zeno Cosini, who writes them at the insistence of his psychoanalyst.

Sigmund Freud, by Max Halberstadt (cropped).jpg
Above: Sigmund Freud (1856 – 1939)

Svevo’s novel received almost no attention from Italian readers and critics at the time.

The work might have disappeared altogether if it were not for the efforts of James Joyce.

Joyce had met Svevo in 1907, when Joyce tutored him in English while working for Berlitz in Trieste.

Joyce read Svevo’s earlier novels Una vita and Senilità.

Senilità : Svevo, Italo: Amazon.de: Bücher

(The plot of Senilità:

Emilio, a clerk from an insurance company who is a failed writer, lives a modest life in a shared apartment with his sister Amalia, a spinster who has few relationships with the outside world, whose life consists mainly of taking care of her bachelor brother.

At the start of the novel Emilio meets Angiolina, a vulgar, poor but beautiful woman, and falls in love with her, causing him to neglect his sister and his sculptor friend Stefano Balli.

Balli has managed to balance his moderate artistic recognition with his successes with women, unlike Emilio, who is now eager for a brief amorous relationship himself.

Emilio tries to explain to Angiolina that their relationship will be subordinate to his other duties, such as those with his own family.

In short, he wants to keep the relationship unofficial, and for both parties not to be too committed.

Balli, who does not believe in love, tries to convince Emilio to simply have fun with Angiolina, known throughout Trieste as a loose woman.

Emilio ends up, instead, opening his heart to this woman, and falls deep under her spell, despite knowing that she is at heart promiscuous.

He imagines transforming Angiolina through his education.

Balli is interested in Angiolina as his model for a sculpture, but Emilio keeps imagining the two being unfaithful to him.

Balli tries to warn Emilio from being too committed:

Angiolina, he says, is seen consorting with an umbrella maker and is soon harboring amorous interest for Balli himself.

The revelation pains Emilio.

Ironically since, as indicated at the beginning of the novel, their initial agreement was for Emilio and Angiolina to have a non-committed relationship.

He breaks off with Angiolina briefly, but soon finds himself searching her out for another tryst.

Balli, meanwhile, starts to frequent Emilio‘s house with great regularity.

In another ironic twist, Emilio‘s sister Amalia falls for Balli.

His masculine charm thus draws in both female protagonists.

Emilio, jealous of Balli, becomes progressively estranged from his sculptor friend, and Amalia, knowing that her secret love is hopeless, numbs herself with ether.

She ultimately becomes ill with pneumonia.

The illness leads to her death, but not after triggering the grave remorse of her negligent brother.)

La coscienza di Zeno (eNewton Classici) (Italian Edition) eBook : Svevo,  Italo, M. Lunetta: Amazon.de: Kindle-Shop

Joyce championed Zeno’s Conscience, helping to have it translated into French and then published in Paris, where critics praised it extravagantly.

That led Italian critics to discover it.

Zeno Cosini, the book’s hero and unreliable narrator, mirrored Svevo himself, being a businessman fascinated by Freudian theory.

Svevo was also a model for Leopold Bloom, the protagonist of Joyce’s seminal novel Ulysses.

Ulysses by James Joyce eBook von James Joyce – 9788180320996 | Rakuten Kobo  Deutschland

Zeno’s Conscience never looks outside the narrow confines of Trieste, much like Joyce’s work, which rarely left Dublin in the last years of Ireland’s time as part of the United Kingdom.

Svevo employed often sardonic wit in his observations of Trieste and, in particular, of his hero, an indifferent man who cheats on his wife, lies to his psychoanalyst, and is trying to explain himself to his psychoanalyst by revisiting his memories.

There is a final connection between Svevo and the character Cosini.

Cosini sought psychoanalysis, he said, in order to discover why he was addicted to nicotine.

As he reveals in his memoirs, each time he had given up smoking, with the iron resolve that this would be the “ultima sigaretta!!“, he experienced the exhilarating feeling that he was now beginning life over without the burden of his old habits and mistakes.

That feeling was, however, so strong that he found smoking irresistible, if only so that he could stop smoking again in order to experience that thrill once more.

La coscienza di Zeno: e «continuazioni» (Einaudi tascabili. Classici Vol.  31) (Italian Edition) - Kindle edition by Svevo, Italo, Lavagetto, M..  Literature & Fiction Kindle eBooks @ Amazon.com.

After being involved in a serious car accident, he was brought into hospital at Motta di Livenza, where his health rapidly failed.

As death approached he asked one of his visitors for a cigarette.

It was refused.

Svevo replied:

That would have been my last.”

He died that afternoon.

Piazza luzzatti.jpg
Above: Piazza Luzzati, Motta di Livenza, Italy

Roberto Prezioso, editor of the Italian newspaper Piccolo della Sera, was another of Joyce’s students.

He helped Joyce financially by commissioning him to write for the newspaper.

Joyce quickly produced three articles aimed toward the Italian irredentists in Trieste.

(Irredentism is a political and popular movement whose members claim – usually on behalf of their nation – and seek to occupy territory which they consider “lost” (or “unredeemed“), based on history or legend.)

He indirectly paralleled their desire for independence from Austria-Hungary with the struggle of the Irish from British rule.

Joyce earned additional money by giving a series of lectures on Ireland and the arts at Trieste’s Università Popolare.

University of Trieste logo.jpg

In May, Joyce was struck by an attack of rheumatic fever, which left him incapacitated for weeks.

The illness exacerbated eye problems that plagued him for the rest of his life. 

While Joyce was still recovering from the attack, Lucia was born on 26 July 1907. 

During his convalescence, he was able to finish “The Dead“, the last story of Dubliners.

Although a heavy drinker, Joyce gave up alcohol for a period in 1908.

He reworked Stephen Hero as the more concise and interior A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man.

He completed the third chapter by April and translated John Millington Synge’s Riders to the Sea into Italian with the help of Nicolò Vidacovich.

John Millington Synge.jpg
Above: John Millington Synge (1871 – 1909)

He even took singing lessons. 

Joyce had been looking for an English publisher for Dubliners but was unable to find one, so he submitted it to a Dublin publisher, Maunsel and Company, owned by George Roberts.

In July 1909, Joyce received a year’s advance payment from one of his students and returned to Ireland to introduce Georgio to both sides of the family (his own in Dublin and Nora’s in Galway). 

He unsuccessfully applied for the position of Chair of Italian at his alma mater, which had become University College Dublin.

He met with Roberts, who seemed positive about publishing Dubliners

Dublin in 1909, with trams, horsecarts, and pedestrians
Above: Dublin, 1909

He returned to Trieste in September with his sister Eva, who helped Nora run the home. 

Joyce only stayed in Trieste for a month, as he almost immediately came upon the idea of starting a cinema in Dublin, which unlike Trieste had none.

He quickly got the backing of some Triestine business men and returned to Dublin in October, launching Ireland’s first cinema, the Volta Cinematograph. 

It was initially well-received, but fell apart after Joyce left.

David Cleary в Twitter: "The Volta Electric Theatre, Ireland's first cinema,  founded in December 1909 on Mary Street by James Joyce. Joyce brought cinema  to Ireland. https://t.co/0jgxIhnZpK" / Twitter

He returned to Trieste in January 1910 with another sister, Eileen.

From 1910 to 1912, Joyce still lacked a reliable income.

In 1912, Joyce once more lectured at the Università Popolare on various topics in English literature and applied for a teaching diploma in English at the University of Padua.

He performed very well on the qualification tests, but was denied because Italy did not recognise his Irish degree.

University of Padua seal.svg
Above: Logo of the University of Padua

In 1912, Joyce and his family returned to Dublin briefly in the summer. 

While there, his three year-long struggle with Roberts over the publication of Dubliners came to an end as Roberts refused to publish the book due to concerns of libel.

Roberts had the printed sheets destroyed, though Joyce was able to obtain a copy of the proof sheets.

When Joyce returned to Trieste, he wrote an invective against Roberts, “Gas from a Burner“.

He never went to Dublin again.

The Salvage Press

Joyce’s fortunes changed for the better 1913 when Richards agreed to publish Dubliners.

It was issued on 15 June 1914, eight and a half years since Joyce had first submitted it to him. 

Around the same time, he found an unexpected advocate in Ezra Pound, who was living in London. 

On the advice of Yeats, Pound wrote to Joyce asking if he could include a poem from Chamber Music, “I Hear an Army Charging upon the Land” in the journal Des Imagistes.

Des Imagistes - Trainwreckpress

They struck up a correspondence that lasted until the late 1930s.

Pound became Joyce’s promoter, helping ensure that Joyce’s works were both published and publicized.

After Pound persuaded Dora Marsden to serially publish A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man in the London literary magazine The Egoist, Joyce’s pace of writing increased.

He completed A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man by 1914, resumed Exiles, completing it in 1915, started the novelette Giacomo Joyce, which he eventually abandoned, and began drafting Ulysses.

GiacomoJoyce.jpg

In August 1914, World War I broke out.

Although Joyce was a subject of the United Kingdom, which was now at war with Austria-Hungary, he remained in Trieste.

Even when his brother Stanislaus, who had publicly expressed his sympathy for the Triestine irredentists, was interned at the beginning of January 1915, Joyce chose to stay.

In May 1915, Italy declared war on Austria-Hungary, and less than a month later Joyce took his family to Zürich in neutral Switzerland.

Above: Zürich, Switzerland

Joyce arrived in Zürich as a double exile:

He was an Irishman with a British passport and a Triestine on parole from Austria-Hungary. 

To get to Switzerland, he had to promise the Austro-Hungarian officials that he would not help the Allies during the war, and he and his family had to leave almost all of their possessions in Trieste. 

During the war, he was kept under surveillance by both the English and Austro-Hungarian secret service.

Man in suit secret service agent icon Royalty Free Vector

The Joyces returned for a nostalgic stay at Gasthaus Hoffnung before settling into Zürich for the duration of the war.

In the interim two children had been born, Joyce had matured as a writer, and the realities of poverty, drink and prostitutes had strained his and Nora’s relationship.

James Joyce in Zurich | SpringerLink

Love between man and woman is impossible because there must not be sexual intercourse, and friendship between man and woman is impossible because there must be sexual intercourse.

James Joyce, Dubliners

Dubliners (Unabridged) von James Joyce. Hörbuch-Downloads | Orell Füssli

It had been a scramble to get out of Trieste, then the principal port of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Sales of Dubliners (1914) stood at 499 copies.

Above: Port of Trieste

I wanted real adventures to happen to myself.

But real adventures, I reflected, do not happen to people who remain at home:

They must be sought abroad.

James Joyce, Dubliners

Dubliners, James Joyce

The manuscript of “Stephen Hero” tinkered with in 1904, had become A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man (1916).

Published serially in The Egoist, it was a succèss d’estime.

Five publishers turned it down and seven printers to set up the type.

Joyce had to wait until the last days of 1916 for book publication.

His novel of growing up in Dublin in the last decades of the 19th century sank virtually unnoticed during the First World War.

The top half of a yellowed page of a periodical entitled "The Egoist" with "An Individualist Review" as the subtitle and "Formerly the New Freewoman" underneath the subtitle.

Shortly after arriving in Zürich, Joyce was awarded 75 pounds from the Royal Literary Fund.

He buttoned his lip as regards mountebanks.

He was granted a Civil List fund in 1916 as well as other monies privately donated to an author who was beginning to attract notice.

In 1904, and on this occasion in 1915, he had arrived in Zürich skint.

By the time he left for Paris in 1920, he had moved from poverty into a qualified bourgeoisie, at home with some but not all of the bürgerlich habits of the banking city.

Ljmmat/Sjhl | Museum für Gestaltung eGuide
Above: James Joyce

Zürich during the First World War was awash with refugees and war profiteers – a vibrant hodgepodge of pacifists, revolutionaries, anarchists and artists who kept the Swiss police in shoe leather.

Lenin arrived in 1916, taking a room 100 yards away from the Cabaret Voltaire where the Dada movement held noisy court.

Cabaret Voltaire
Above: Cabaret Voltaire, Zürich

Switzerland had long been a crucible of Russian revolutionary thought, including such firebrands as Alexander Herzen, Mikhail Bakunin, Piotr Kropotkin, Rosa Luxembourg and Lenin.

Many of them were shielded from Siberian exile by Switzerland’s tolerance and judicial system.

Flag of the Soviet Union
Above: Flag of the Soviet Union (1922 – 1991)

Lenin was a habitué of the Café Odéon and most likely rubbed shoulders with Joyce there.

Musical "Odeon" - Das legendäre Grand Café Odeon erobert die Bühne – und  ein 81-jähriger Geroldswiler spielt mit
Above: Café Odeon, Zürich

The political revolutionary was more outspoken about his hosts than the Irish writer:

Switzerland is the most revolutionary country in the world….

There is only one slogan that you should spread quickly in Switzerland and around all other countries:

Armed insurrection!”

No wonder the Swiss were keen to see him safely across the border.

After the abdication of Tsar Nicholas II in 1917, Lenin boarded a sealed train in Zürich that took him across Germany to the Finland Station.

The rest, as they say, is history.

Vladimir Lenin.jpg
Above: Vladimir Lenin (1870 – 1924)

From a provincial town, Zürich had grown to become the centre of European modernism.

Partly this had to do with the influx of German and other refugees – Joyce, Frank Wedekind, Tristan Tzara, Stefan Zweig, and the painters Wassily Kandinsky and Jean Arp.

Frank Wedekind
Above: German playwright Frank Wedekind (1864 – 1918)

Robert Delaunay's portrait of Tzara, 1923
Above: Romanian artist Tristan Tzara (1896 – 1963)

Stefan Zweig2.png
Above: Austrian writer Stefan Zweig (1881 – 1942)

Vassily-Kandinsky.jpeg
Above: Russian painter Vassily Kandinsky (1866 – 1944)

Hans Arp.JPG
Above: Alsatian painter Jean Arp (1886 – 1966)

Partly too it was because theatres were closed or restricted elsewhere.

Little of this ferment was homegrown.

Hugo Ball and Emmy Hennings, the wild spirits behind Dada, were German pacifists.

Hugoball.jpg
Above: German writer Hugo Ball (1886 – 1927)

Emmy Hennings, Dadaist pioneer | House of Switzerland
Above: German artist Emmy Hennins (1885 – 1948)

Carl Jung’s theories developed from the theories of Viennese Sigmund Freud.

ETH-BIB-Jung, Carl Gustav (1875-1961)-Portrait-Portr 14163 (cropped).tif
Above: Swiss psychologist Carl Jung (1875 – 1961)

The Swiss themselves were suspicious of the backwash of foreigners and showed scant interest in their avant-garde activities.

Police files during these years followed émigré movements, as they did during the Second World War.

Zürich was where Joyce got down to writing Ulysses.

The germ of the idea had come to him during an aborted stay in Rome – and its last line – “Trieste, Zürich, Paris” – is, as Alain de Botton says, “a symbol of the cosmopolitan spirit behind its composition“.

Alain de Botton.jpg
Above: Swiss philosopher Alain de Botton

Leopold Bloom, its urban Jewish protagonist, borrows characteristics from Joyce’s friends and acquaintances in the rump of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

But Bloom has a bit of Zürich in him too – modernist multi-culti Zürich, the Zürich of the flâneur as well as the banker.

Joyce’s friends in the Swiss city were mostly Jews, Greeks and displaced Austro-Hungarians, as they had benn in Trieste.

Bibliophilia on Twitter | James joyce, Joyce, James joyce poems
Above: James Joyce

Behind him Zürich, suddenly confronted by this and other manifestations of a revolutionary spirit, sat like some austere grandmother long since inured and indifferent to the babbling of unfamiliar progeny.”

Detail

Joyce’s Zürich drinking haunts signal his relative affluence.

Whereas in Trieste he had frequented sailors’s dens in the port, in Zürich a better class of establishment came to the fore, the restaurant Zum Roten Kreuz, the Café Terrasse and the Café Odéon.

Ansichtskarte / Postkarte Fluntern Zürich Stadt Schweiz, | akpool.de
Above: Zum Roten Kreuz, Zürich

In The End of the World News (1982), Anthony Burgess imagines Joyce and Lenin at nearby tables in the Zum Roten Kreuz, both plotting revolutions in two different dimensions.

The End of the World News: An Entertainment - Wikipedia

Together with Joyce’s regular haunt, the Pfauen Café, these locales hosted a medley of polyglot drinking, singing and repartee.

Other Joyce Sites | ZURICH JAMES JOYCE FOUNDATION
Above: Pfauen Café, Zürich

As the Swiss writer Dürrenmatt reminds us, the Hapsburgs originated just outside of town.

Zürich can strike the visitor as the most Western of the Mitteleuropa cities.

Dürrenmatt in 1989
Above: Swiss writer Friedrich Dürrenmatt (1921 – 1990)

Many of Joyce’s hosteleries still flourish a century later.

The Café Odéon reduced to a third its original size, is usually crowded with shoppers and capuccino drinkers – bags and dogs at their feet – rather than the radical loudmouths of the early 20th century.

In the winter there is the smell of wet cashmere.

Gilt mirrors and brassy bar have seen generations come and go through the stained glass doors.

Café Bar Odeon - Zürich - Guidle
Above: Café Odeon, Zürich

Across the road, the Café Terrasse is also crowded.

The pastries are good, the décor a bit doily.

Gone are the newspapers on batons, that quintessential feature of the central European coffeehouse, but laptops are in evidence.

Oompa music on public squares has been replaced by ringtones at tables.

Joyce’s bars have weathered revolutions and wars and come up in the world in the meantime.

TERRASSE, Zürich - Old Town - Menü, Preise & Restaurant Bewertungen -  Tripadvisor
Above: Café Terrasse, Zürich

The Joyce family viewed Zürich as an interlude that stretched to four years, intending to return to furniture and pictures in Trieste as soon as the First World War had ended.

But nobody knew when that would be.

They occupied a number of furnished apartments in the course of their stay, the longest at Universitätsstrasse 29.

Joyce in Zurich | ZURICH JAMES JOYCE FOUNDATION
Above: Universitätsstrasse 29, Zürich

The language at home was a Triestine dialect of Italian, with Slavic undertones.

Giorgio was turning ten when they arrived in Zürich, and Lucia eight.

They were put back two years in school, as they knew no German.

Joyce himself had quite good German – enough to write lovelorn letters to his fancy women – but for Nora the language was a trial.

Above: “A complete word“, Illustration in the essay “The Awful German Language“, A Tramp Abroad, Mark Twain

Market day in Locarno reminded her of Trieste:

It was quite lively to hear the men calling out the prices and making as much noise as they could just like in Trieste.

The markets in Ticino | ticino.ch
Above: Market, Locarno, Ticino, Switzerland

Contact with other languages in the smithy of the Austro-Hungarian Empire made Joyce instantly aware of his own, its registers, dialects, history and slang.

He code shifted from Triestine Italian to Zürich German to Modern Greek.

Ulysses has the cosmopolitan soundscape of the war years, its language a mixing board, its constituent parts broken down, like notes, like an opera.

On any given day in Zürich you never know what languages you might encounter.

Joyce became an auditor of the world’s sounds, at sea in the flotsam of language, adrift from meaning, aware of multiple levels and the interpenetration of words.

A tram bell.

Above: Zürich

A cry in the street.

The murmur along a bar.

Rutting in the next room.

Vision reduced, his ears took up the slack.

Above: Zürich

It was in Zürich that Joyce’s eye troubles turned serious.

His glaucoma required an iridectomy, the first of eleven operations over the next fifteen years.

In 1917 he wrote to Pound:

On Saturday when walking in the street I got suddenly a violent Hexenschuss which incapicated me from moving for about twenty minutes.

I managed to crawl into a tram and get home.

It got better in the evening but the next day I had symptoms of glaucoma again – slightly better today.

Tomorrow morning I am going to the Augenklinik.

This climate is impossible for me so that, operated or not, I want to go away next month.

I am advised to go to Italian Switzerland.

Acute angle closure glaucoma.JPG

Neither Joyce nor Nora adapted to Zürich’s muggy climate after balmy seaside Trieste.

In August 1917, Nora and the children went ahead to Locarno while Joyce remained behind.

On Bahnhofstrasse he suffered the episode of glaucoma described to Pound.

The eye clinic operated successfully and Nora returned to comfort her husband.

In the days following, Joyce wrote one of his more touching poems about the loss of youthful vision and vim,

Bahnhofstrasse is named for Zürich’s main thoroughfare, the most expensive shopping street in the world.

He was only 37.

Bahnhofstrasse Zurich | Shopping in Zurich
Above: Bahnhofstrasse, Zürich

Ah, star of evil! Star of pain!

Highhearted youth comes not again.

Nor old heart’s wisdom yet to know

The signs that mock me as I go.

Should James Joyce's remains leave Switzerland?
Above: James Joyce statue, Zürich

They wintered in Locarno, staying at the Pension Villa Rossa and laster at the Pension Daheim.

Above: Postcard, Pension Villa Rosa, Locarno

The nearby fishing village of Ascona was already an artists’ colony.

Ascona IMG 1646.jpg
Above: Ascona

But Joyce grew bored in Locarno.

He was a city boy at heart.

Despite snow and an earthquake, he was able to complete there the three opening episodes of Ulysses – the manuscript title page bears the inscription “Pension Daheim, Locarno, Switzerland“.

Above: Pension Daheim, Locarno

Nora and the children relaxed into the Italian atmosphere, with its accents of home.

Pizza was on the menu.

Eq it-na pizza-margherita sep2005 sml.jpg

Because of his glaucoma Joyce decided to forgo absinthe, his tipple at the time, for Swiss white wines.

Absinthe-glass.jpg
Above: Absinthe

He settled on Fendant de Sion, comparing its golden hue to an Archduchess’ piss:

For now the wine was known as ‘the Archduchess’ and is so celebrated in ‘Finnegan’s Wake‘.”

Varone Fendant de Sion Soleil du Valais | Vivino

Glaucoma didn’t prevent his other eye from wandering.

Two women took hold of Joyce’s imagination, apart from Nora, during his stay in Switzerland.

Both made their way into Ulysses, forming the composite figure of Gerty McDowell showing her drawers to an admiring Bloom.

Ulysses (English Edition) eBook : James Joyce: Amazon.de: Kindle-Shop

Dr. Gertrude Kaempffer was a 26-year-old recovering from tuberculosis in Orselina above Locarno, where the Madonna del Sasso Basilica commands the valley.

Above: Orselina

When she rebuffed his initial advances, Joyce conducted an erotic correspondence with her from Zürich, using a poste restante address, as Bloom does in Ulysses.

Joyce revealed to her his first sexual experience when he was 14 while walking with the family nanny through fields on the edge of a wood.

The nanny was taken short and asked him to look the other way.

She went off to pee.

He heard the sound of liquid splashing on the ground…..

The sound aroused him:

I jiggled furiously.‘”

exclamation mark - Simple English Wiktionary

This information proved less stimulating to Dr. Kaempffer than to the author of Ulysses and so their correspondence fizzled out.

White Balloon And Deflated Balloon On A White Background High-Res Stock  Photo - Getty Images

The second of Joyce’s dalliances, Marthe Fleischmann, was closer to home.

She lived around the corner from the Joyce flat at 29 Universitätsstrasse, Kitty Corner.

Their windows were in sight of each other and he first spotted her as she was pulling the toilet chain.

Joyce gives to the hero of Finnegans Wake an erotic interest in watching girls pee and the author’s correspondence with his wife Nora confirms this peccadillo.

Marthe was attractive, had notions about herself and walked with a slight limp (as does Gerty in Ulysses).

Joyce cast Marthe as the reincarnation of his youthful muse first spotted on Dublin’s North Strand: girlish, birdlike, ethereal, her skirts hiked up.

He began a correspondence in French with Marthe, deploying his usual Irish blether about Dante, Shakespeare and the Dark Lady of the Sonnets – and, by the way, could we meet?

He shaved two years off his age, continued ogling her through the window and sent her a copy of his wee book of poems, Chamber Music, named in jest for another piddling floozy.

Martha Fleischmann (Aufrichtig) (1901 - c.1942) - Genealogy
Above: Martha Fleischmann (1901 – 1942)

They arranged to meet on his birthday – 2 February, Candlemas Day.

Joyce borrowed his friend Frank Budgen’s flat for the assignation.

Smells and bells, a Hanukkah candelabra (Joyce thought she was of Jewish ancestry), the whole caboodle:

By nightfall everything was ready.

He had lit the candles both because they were romantic and because he wished to see his visitor in a flattering light.

His Pagan Marthe both yielded and withheld.

He confided to Budgen when they met later on that he had ‘explored the coldest and the hottest parts of a woman’s body’.

Hanukkah חג חנוכה.jpg

Marthe was already a kept woman.

She liked her airs and graces, and secreted rosewater hankies in her cleavage.

But she wasn’t adverse to Joyce’s dirty talk about undergarments.

Her paramour (‘Vormund‘) was an engineer named Rudolph Hiltpond, himself putting it about a bit with sundry mistresses, who soon got wind of the peeping Paddy next door.

As Joyce expressed it militarily in a letter to Frank Budgen:

Result, status: Waffenstillstand.” (Armistice)

Women's Fashion During WWI: 1914–1920 - Bellatory

It was with Budgen with whom Joyce made a second trip to Locarno in May 1919.

He was an ex-sailor, a painter and had modelled for the Swiss artist August Suter.

He had an associative, imaginative mind, much like Joyce’s.

The allegorical figure representing Labour, was modelled on Budgen, as was the sailor on a pack of Player’s Navy Cut cigarettes.

Joyce was continuously looking for material to feed his mythopoeic imagination, even manipulating conversations to get it, as August Suter noted:

He imperceptively brought on conversation that he happened to need for his work.”

Above: English artist Frank Budgen (1882 – 1971)

On this second visit to Locarno, Joyce and Budgen encountered the Baroness St. Leger, who lived on the tiny Isola di Brissago on Lago Maggiore.

Joyce was working on the Circe episode of Ulysses.

Circe in Homer is a kind of temptress emasculator, with Odysseus as her captive boy-toy and her island as a dolce far niente.

Joyce thought the Baroness might fit the bill:

She had been thrice married.

He dubbed her “the Siren of Lago Maggiore“.

Isoledibrissago.jpg
Above: Aerial view of the Brissago Isles

A Siren in winter, perhaps.

The Baroness is one of those fascinating figures on the margins of writers’ lives.

She was born in St. Petersburg in 1856 and was rumoured to be the illegitimate daughter of Tsar Alexander II.

Zar Alexander II.jpg (cropped).jpg
Above: Russian Tsar Alexander II (1818 – 1881)

Her birth certificate gives her parents’ names as Nicholas Alexandre and Maryam Meyer.

Antoinetta was pretty and vivacious.

Ein Vorschlag aus dem Tessin: Isole del Brissago - FORUM elle
Above: Baroness St. Leger (1886 – 1948)

Her piano teacher had been Franz Liszt.

Two husbands quickly palled.

Her third husband was the Anglo-Irish Lord Richard Fleming Saint Leger, from Kingstown (Dun Laoghaire), apparently descended from Richard the Lionheart.

They bought the two Brissago islands for CHF 10,000 and the Baroness proceeded to import thousands of plants and turn the hideaway into a botanical paradise befitting the Mediterranean microclimate.

Her other passion, like Circe‘s, was for young men.

Husband #3 soon abandoned her in 1897.

Above: Villa Brissago

By the time Joyce pitched up in 1919, she was 63 and as flighty as ever, coming over the water to greet him standing up in her boat.

The poet Rilke, fond of people’s castles as he was, had visited the Baroness the same year, so she had no shortage of scribbling admirers.

Rilke in 1900
Above: German poet Rainer Maria Rilke (1875 – 1926)

She liked to make puppets and had hundreds of them on the island, which may indicate her psychological makeup.

Penniless in 1927, she was forced to sell her islands to the department store magnate Max Emden.

Above: Villa Emden, Brissago Islands

He was German-Jewish and fed up with the retail business.

(He was the founder of the KaDeVe chain, still ringing the tills in Germany.)

On a good day he dressed in a kimono and did his yoga and meditation on the Roman baths he had built on the island.

Curvaceous lovelies kept him company.

There was nude water-skiing and slap and tickle among the guests.

He was a department store Gatsby.

MaxEmden.JPG
Above: Max Emden

Monte Verità art collector Baron Eduard von der Heydt (more of a toga man) was an occasional poolside visitor.

Eduard von der Heydt im Tresor der Von der Heydt‘s Bank AG, Berlin.jpg
Above: Eduard von der Heydt (1882 – 1964)

Emden died in 1940, after fifteen good years in a kimono.

The Baroness outlived him, saw out two world wars as well as the Crimean War and the downfall of the Russian Empire, and died age 92 in 1948 – still penniless, in an old people’s home in Intragna.

ThinkShop: The Baroness on Brissago Islands
Above: Baroness St. Leger

Like many Swiss stories, this one has a sting in the tale.

In 2012, the grandson of Max Emden, a Chilean, claimed ownership of Claude Monet’s “Poppy Fields at Vétheuil“, valued at over €20 million.

The Bührle Foundation in Zürich has the famous painting and is clear about the provenance.

Max Enden’s only son fled Switzerland for Chile at the beginning of the war and the painting was apparently sold to finance his excape from the Nazis.

The German government has not ruled in favour of restitution.

Poppy field near Vétheuil · Claude Monet · Stiftung Sammlung E.G. Bührle
Above: Claude Monet’s Poppy Fiedls at Vétheuil

Other details of Joyce’s Swiss stay make their way into Ulysses.

A visit to the Rhine Falls near Schaffhausen found a faint echo in ‘Circe‘.

SBB RABe 514 DTZ Rheinfall.jpg
Above: Rhine Falls, Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Joyce co-founded an acting company, the English Players, and became its business manager.

The company was pitched to the British government as a contribution to the war effort, and mainly staged works by Irish playwrights, such as Oscar Wilde, George Bernard Shaw and John Millington Synge.

Wilde in 1882
Above: Oscar Wilde (1854 – 1900)

Middle-aged man with greying hair and full beard
Above: George Bernard Shaw (1856 – 1950)

For Synge’s Riders to the Sea, Nora played a principal role and Joyce sang offstage, which he did again when Robert Browning’s In a Balcony was staged.

He hoped the company would eventually stage his play, Exiles, but his participation in the English Players declined in the wake of the Great Influenza Epidemic of 1918, though the company continued until 1920.

The Pfauen complex, a large stone building. Theatre is in the center. Cafe used to be right of theatre
Above: The Pfauen in Zürich. Joyce’s preferred hangout was the cafe, which used to be on the right corner. The theatre staged the English Players.

Joyce’s work with the English Players involved him in a lawsuit. 

Henry Wilfred Carr (1894 – 1962), a wounded war veteran and British consul, accused Joyce of underpaying him for his role in The Importance of Being Earnest.

Carr sued for compensation.

Joyce countersued for libel.

When the cases were settled in 1919, Joyce won the compensation case but lost the one for libel.

The incident ended up creating acrimony between the British consulate and Joyce for the rest of his time in Zürich.

Clean-shaven young white man in Scottish military dress uniform, with kilt and bearskin
Above: Henry Carr in Canadian Black Watch uniform, 1917

Up to rheumy Zürich town came an Irish man one day,

And as the place was rather dull he thought he’d give a play,

So that the German propagandists might be rightly riled,

But the bully British Philistine once more drove Oscar Wilde.”

Joyce, James Augustine Aloysius (1882–1941), writer | Oxford Dictionary of  National Biography
Above: James Joyce

Fritz Senn, the keeper of the flame at the James Joyce Foundation in Zürich, has uncovered numerous references to his city in Ulysses and Finnegans Wake.

Zürich served as a refuge from the war and provided Joyce with an atmosphere, an urban vibe and a cacophony of friends who fuelled his masterpiece.

UZH - The Swiss Centre of Irish Studies @ the Zurich James Joyce Foundation  - About Us

When the Joyce family returned to Trieste in 1919, it was not for long.

It had become a backwater.

By 1919, Joyce was in financial straits again.

Zürich had become expensive to live in after the war.

Furthermore, he was becoming isolated as the city’s emigres returned home.

In October 1919, Joyce’s family moved back to Trieste, but it had changed.

The Austro-Hungarian empire had ceased to exist.

Trieste was now an Italian city in post-war recovery.

Eight months after his return, Joyce went to Sirmione, Italy, to meet Pound, who made arrangements for him to move to Paris.

The castle at the entrance of the old town
Above: Sirmione, Italy

Joyce and his family packed their belongings and headed for Paris in June 1920.

Paris was the happening place and Zürich had whetted Joyce’s appetite for it.

File:La Tour Eiffel vue de la Tour Saint-Jacques, Paris août 2014 (2).jpg
Above: Paris, France

Joyce was almost blind in the last months of 1940.

He and his family were on the run from yet another war.

The Swiss Federal Aliens’ Police rejected Joyce’s initial application for visas on the supposition that he and his family were Jews.

The Swiss writer Jacques Mercanton put the authorities right on this point.

Joyce himself privately declared that he “was not a Jew from Judea but an Aryan from Erin“.

The mayor of Zürich, the rector of its university, the Swiss Society of Authors, and other notables vouched for him.

Mercanton, Jacques | Lenos Verlag
Above: Jacques Mercanton (1909 – 1997)

(Up in the University Library, Joyce researched Ulysses.)

University of Zurich seal.svg
Above: Logo of the University of Zürich

Cantonal authorities wanted a guarantee of CHF 50,000, later reduced to CHF 20,000.

The Joyce family eventually succeeded in getting entry permits.

In December 1940 they came into Switzerland by way of Geneva, where Stephen Joyce, the writer’s eight-year-old grandson, had his bicycle impounded at the border because of inability to pay import duties.

A view over Geneva and the lake
Above: Genève (Geneva), Switzerland

They spent the night of 14 December 1940 at the Richemonde Hotel, before moving on to Lausanne.

Hotel Richemond Geneva - Jep Cary
Above: Hotel Richemond, Geneva

Seán Lester, acting general secretary of the League of Nations and a Belfast man, had tea with the Joyce family on the Sunday afternoon, in the marble and ormolu salon of their hotel:

SeanLester.jpg
Above: Seán Lester (1888 – 1959)

Flag of League of Nations
Above: Flag of the League of Nations

The famous Joyce is tall, slight, in the fifties, blue eyes and a good thatch of hair.

No one would hesitate in looking at him to recognize his nationality and accent as Dublin as when he left it over thirty years ago.

seated portrait of James Joyce in a suit. He is in three-quarters view looking left, wearing a suit. Table with books is in background on the right.
Above: James Joyce

His eyesight is very bad and he told me it had been some years ago by the famous Vogt of Zürich, who had also operated on de Valera (President of Ireland and statesman).

Alfred Vogt.jpg
Above: Swiss ophthalmologist Alfred Vogt (1879 – 1943)

Éamon de Valera.jpg
Above: Éamon de Valera (1882 – 1975)

His son, seemingly in his late twenties, came in first.

A fine, well-built fellow, with a peculiar hybrid accent in English.

He told me he is a singer and has sung in Paris and New York.

James Joyce and his wife Nora with their son Giorgio, daughter-in-law Helen and two-year-old grandson Stephen James Joyce in Paris in 1934. Photo: Bettmann Archive
Above: James Joyce and his wife Nora with their son Giorgio, daughter-in-law Helen and two-year-old grandson Stephen James Joyce in Paris in 1934.

The Richemonde sits one block back from the more illustrious Hotel Beau Rivage on Geneva’s lakeshore.

The Beau Rivage is where royalty stayed, where Empress Sisi of Austria-Hungary died from a madman’s stiletto, where Somerset Maugham and other international spies kept their ears open.

Hotel Beau Rivage Geneva | Geneva.info
Above: Hotel Beau Rivage, Geneva

Isabel da Áustria 1867.jpg
Above: Austrian Empress Elisabeth (“Sisi“) (1837 – 1898)

Above: An artist’s rendition of the stabbing of Elisabeth by the Italian anarchist Luigi Lucheni in Geneva, 10 September 1898

Maugham photographed by Carl Van Vechten in 1934
Above: William Somerset Maugham (1874 – 1965)

The Richemonde is equally glitzy:

Charlie Chaplin, Sophia Loren and Michael Jackson found rooms with a view there.

Above: Poster of Charlie Chaplin (1889 – 1977)

Sophia Loren - 1959.jpg
Above: Sophie Loren (née Sofia Costanza Brigida Villani Scicolone)

A photograph of Michael Jackson singing into a microphone
Above: Michael Jackson (1958 – 2009)

It is a historic corner overlooking Brunswick Monument – a history not lost on James Joyce.

Brunswick Monument - Wikipedia
Above: Brunswick Monument, Geneva

As a boy he had lived on Dublin’s North Richmond Street.

Pillar to Post: SUNDAY REVIEW /ARABY /SHORT STORY BY JAMES JOYCE
Above: North Richmond Street, Dublin, Ireland

Great Brunswick Street was where he sang in the Antient Concert Rooms at the beginning of the century.

A Night at the Ancient Concert Rooms
Above: Antient Concert Rooms, Dublin, Ireland

The Joyce family might have felt that they were once again at history’s mercy.

Above: History, Frederick Dielman (1896)

Finnegans Wake (1939), 17 years in the writing, had received a puzzled reception the previous year.

Needing two magnifying glasses to read and write, Joyce was addicted to Radio Éireann.

Since 1920, he, Nora and their two children had been living in Paris, where the writer had achieved fame and squandered some fortune.

Now Paris was occupied and they were on the move once more.

In the late 1930s, Joyce became increasingly concerned about the rise of fascism and antisemitism. 

As early as 1938, Joyce was involved in helping a number Jews escape Nazi persecution.

After the defeat of France in World War II, Joyce and his family fled from Nazi occupation, returning to Zürich a final time.

They were going to settle in Zürich, where they had some good friends.

I said I thought it was an unusual place for him to choose and asked, ‘What about Suisse Romande?’.

His wife then intervened and said that Zürich had always been associated with certain crises in their lives.

They had rushed from Austria at the beginning of the last war and had lived in Zürich very comfortably.

They had spent their honeymoon there.

It was there that Joyce’s eyesight had been saved and now they were going back in another crisis.

They liked the solid virtues of the people.

James Joyce: Irish writer died in Switzerland on Jan 13 1941
Above: James Joyce

It was these solid Swiss virtues that supported them as the world turned once more to war.

When they returned to Zürich in December 1940, it musr have seemed like déjà vu.

Not more bloody Swiss German, Nora must have thought – it was her 4th language.

Friends met them at the Hauptbahnhof.

Above: Hauptbahnhof (Grand Central Station), Zürich

Staying at the Hotel Pension Delphin on Muhlebachstrasse, Joyce wrote to the Mayor of Zürich to thank him:

The connection between me and your hospitable city extends over a period of nearly forty years and in these painful times I feel honoured that I should owe my presence here in large part to the personal guaranty of Zürich’s first citizen.

Quartierverein - Zürich Fluntern

The Joyce family celebrated Christmas with friends.

He walked out in the snow in the afternoons with his grandson Stephen, to the confluence of the Sihl and Limmat Rivers, where today the spot has an inscription from Finnegans Wake:

Yssel that the Limmat?” and “legging a jig or so on the Sihl“.

File:Limmat & Sihl - James-Joyce-Kanzel 2011-08-20 15-47-00.JPG - Wikimedia  Commons
Above: Where the Limmat and Sihl Rivers meet, Zürich

At the Kronenhalle, Joyce ate his last dinner.

The bistro has priceless art on the walls and has been feeding artists from Joyce to Picasso to Dürrenmatt and Frisch for over a century.

Restaurant Kronenhalle Zürich | Schönste Zeit Magazin
Above: Restaurant Kronenhalle, Zürich

On 11 January 1941, Joyce underwent surgery in Zürich for a perforated duodenal ulcer.

He fell into a coma the following day.

He awoke at 2 am on 13 January 1941, and asked a nurse to call his wife and son.

They were en route when he died 15 minutes later, less than a month before his 59th birthday.

His body was buried in the Fluntern Cemetery in Zürich.

Swiss tenor Max Meili sang “Addio terra, addio cielo” from Monteverdi’s L’Orfeo at the burial service.

FORGOTTEN OPERA SINGERS : Max Meili (Tenor) (Winterthur, Switzerland 11  December 1899 - Zürich, Switzerland 17 March 1970)
Above: Max Meili (1899 – 1970)

Joyce had been a subject of the United Kingdom all his life and only the British consul attended the funeral.

Although two senior Irish diplomats were in Switzerland at the time, neither attended Joyce’s funeral.

When Joseph Walshe, secretary at the Department of External Affairs in Dublin, was informed of Joyce’s death by Frank Cremins, chargé d’affaires at Bern, Walshe responded:

Please wire details of Joyce’s death.

If possible find out did he die a Catholic?

Express sympathy with Mrs Joyce and explain inability to attend funeral.”

Ireland and the Nazis: a troubled history

Above: Joseph Walshe (1886 – 1956)

Buried originally in an ordinary grave, Joyce was moved in 1966 to a more prominent “honour grave“, with a seated portrait statue by American artist Milton Hebald nearby.

Nora, whom he had married in 1931, survived him by 10 years.

She is buried by his side, as is their son Giorgio, who died in 1976.

Horizontal gravestone saying "JAMES JOYCE", "NORA BARNACLE JOYCE", GEORGE JOYCE", and "...ASTA OSTERWALDER JO...", all with dates. Behind the stone is a green hedge and a seated statue of Joyce holding a book and pondering.
Above: James Joyce Grave, Flautern Cemetery, Zürich

After Joyce’s death, the Irish government declined Nora’s request to permit the repatriation of Joyce’s remains, despite being persistently lobbied by the American diplomat John J. Slocum.

In October 2019, a motion was put to Dublin City Council to plan and budget for the costs of the exhumations and reburials of Joyce and his family somewhere in Dublin, subject to his family’s wishes.

Logo

The proposal immediately became controversial, with the Irish Times commenting:

“It is hard not to suspect that there is a calculating, even mercantile, aspect to contemporary Ireland’s relationship to its great writers, whom we are often more keen to ‘celebrate’, and if possible monetise, than read.”

The Irish Times logo.svg

The Pfauen has shut, but the Schauspielhaus right next door, where Brecht’s Mother Courage got its premiere, is still packing them in.

Brecht in 1954
Above: Bertolt Brecht (1898 – 1956)

One of Joyce’s old apartments is gone, bulldozed by the developers.

Under the Uraniabrücke, gaze up at Frank Budgen, Joyce’s model friend, in the stony buff.

Imagine having to go past yourself like that every day.

Other Joyce Sites | ZURICH JAMES JOYCE FOUNDATION
Above: Statue of Frank Budgen

Together with Thomas Mann and Vladimir Nabokov, Joyce is one of the 20th century’s literary greats.

All three were marked by history.

As Joyce fled Vichy France for Zürich, Nabokov boarded the boat for America and Mann took refuge in California.

They all eventually found peace and quiet to write in Switzerland, sometimes engaging but more often disengaging from the conflicts that surrounded them.

Nabokov’s final resting place is at Clarens above Lac Léman (Lake Geneva).

Above: Vladimir and Vera Nabokov gravesite, Cimetière de Clarens, near Montreux, Switzerland

Mann is buried at Kilchberg across the Lake (Zürichsee) from Joyce, who died on 13 January 1941, age 59.

Above: The grave of Thomas, Katia, Erika, Monika, Michael and Elisabeth Mann, Kilchberg, Switzerland

The great modernist is buried next to Nora in Zürich’s Flauntern Cemetery, within a lion’s roar of the Zoo.

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Above: Friedhof Flauntern, Zürich

He watched the scene and thought of life; and (as always happened when he thought of life) he became sad.

A gentle melancholy took possession of him.

He felt how useless it was to struggle against fortune, this being the burden of wisdom which the ages had bequeathed him.

James Joyce, Dubliners

Dubliners by James Joyce: 9780812983012 | PenguinRandomHouse.com: Books

I have often told my wife – and anyone who has cared to listen – that I was willing to live in Switzerland, but that, given a choice, I would not choose to die in Switzerland.

Joyce chose Zürich as his final choice of exile.

Though I resided in Landschlacht, I “lived” in St. Gallen, for it was in the latter where most of the work I did and most of the friends I had were.

Above: Old houses, St. Gallen, Switzerland

On Wednesday, I will visit St. Gallen again.

There are tales to be told.

Some of them may sting…..

Above: Abbey Library, St. Gallen

(To be continued…..)

Sources: Wikipedia / Wikivoyage / Google / Personal journals / “Heavy snowfall in Turkey forces Istanbul Airport to close“, Al Jazeera, 24 January 2022 / Sheryl Crow, “The Book” / James Joyce: Chamber Music/Dubliners/Exiles/Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man / Paul Kirby, “Is Russia preparing to invade Ukraine?“, BBC News, 26 January 2022 / Stephen Leacock, Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town / Mícheál MacCraith, “Princess Gwendoline: Rome’s Mother of the Poor“, Wanted in Rome, January 2020 / Chantal Panozzo, Swiss Life: 30 Things I Wish I’d Known / Charlie Rich, “Behind Closed Doors” / Padraig Rooney, The Gilded Chalet: Off-piste in Literary Switzerland / Wanted in Rome, “James Joyce in Rome“, 16 June 2021 / Wanted in Rome, “Tracing the footsteps of Rome’s foreign writers and artists“, 2 November 2018 / http://www.aab.it (Anglo-American Bookshop) / http://www.gattidiroma.net (Cats of Rome)

Canada Slim and the Corridor Ride

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Friday 1 January 2021

Happy New Year, everyone!

Of the resolutions I am making for this new year, one is finishing the storylines I have previously started in both my blogs before mid-February 2021.

The value of the tales of my travels before March 2020 is to show what life was before the pandemic with the hope that we can return to a semblance of that life before the end of 2021.

The value of the tales of my travels since March 2020 is to leave a record of just how unusual this pandemic period truly was.

Happy New Year 2021 Videos

There are times that despite all your best intentions you will disappoint the people you care about.

This has happened to me too many times for my conscience to feel comforted.

This winter I shall once again (Fates willing) disappointment some in my plan to teach in Turkey once corona virus restrictions have been lifted both here and there.

And in the middle of January 2020, I disappointed two families in the short space of 48 hours.

Napanee to Brampton, Ontario, Canada, Saturday 11 January 2020

The Family S had left me at the Kingston VIA Rail Station and departed to resume the lives they were leading before I showed up two days previously.

The Family S are my family in everything but blood and name, but the thing about family is you cannot always choose how your encounters with them will make you feel.

Kingston Station ON CLIP.jpg

I would love to write that every moment spent with family is a laughing, loving, joyful celebration of life, but I fear that this is not always the case.

Sometimes I have experienced soul-ripping lonely moments amongst them, for I am haunted by an aching rawness that misses them in absentia and longs to flee from their presence.

Being neatly removed from family through time and distance may speak volumes about the grief, isolation and loneliness I feel when separated from them, but it is this time and distance that make it difficult to get them to understand, sympathize and support me, and vice versa.

We Are Family - Sister Sledge.jpg

As Billy Joel in his beautiful ballad, The Piano Man, so aptly puts it:

Yes, they’re sharing a drink they call “Loneliness”, but it’s better than drinking alone.

Billy Joel Piano Man single.jpg

We are alone and disconnected even when reunited.

This loneliness is a commonality between us that also alienates us from one another.

Sometimes when we bravely share our struggles with loneliness, an odd kind of silence descends, as if the confessing person just exposed something embarrassing, something shameful.

Conversations are concealed in convention, dialogue is disguised in distractions.

Who we are depends on concealing who we truly are.

Loneliness was within the walls of the Family S home and was my sole companion remaining at the Kingston Station.

I climb the stairs of the train wagon and the train leaves the Ministry of Loneliness’ Eastern Ontario outpost behind.

VIA Rail Canada Logo.svg

The train ride feels as surrealistic as a scene from the 2014 comedy-drama The Grand Hotel Budapest.

The carriage has the feel of mid-century, of a photocromatic scene frozen mid-journey on some dark and gloomy Russian steppe.

I am riding an illusion in a place where I do not belong, though I call it home.

The 'Look' Of The Grand Budapest Hotel | actionstartindreams

Above: Tony Revolori, Saoirse Ronan and Ralph Fiennes, The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014)

Napanee remembered reminds me of the specific Japanese word to describe “lonely death” – Kodokushi.

Napanee was my Kodokushi and there where youth meets age there is a poignant vulnerability I am eager to leave behind.

Dundas street

Above: Dundas Street, Napanee

The train conductor, if that is his title, is unexpected in appearance, in that I don’t quite know how to define him.

A foreshortened young man, 20 something, impeccable manners, courteous service, garbed in a uniform that tranportation companies insist employees wear as if the lack of a military bearing somehow denotes a lack of professionalism.

There stood a company man, a travelling ambassador and valet in motion, clearly the convoy’s charge d’affaire in cooperation with two lovely ladies, Audrey and Belle.

搭乘火車從曼尼托巴省到湯普森的價格自THB 1,681

Zachary collects the tickets, pushes the refreshment wagon and calmly commands attention upon this train that travels the Corridor twixt Québec City and Windsor.

Zachary is nothing more, nothing less than an average young man riding the rails for a paycheque.

Datei:CorridorVia.svg – Wikipedia

Then his voice is heard and his hands are seen.

His voice is reminiscent of a stereotypical falsetto of a man in drag desperate to sound feminine.

His fingernails are painted, each nail a different hue and each wave of his hand reminds me of a kaleidoscope shaken or a rainbow rushing through traffic.

A man’s voice is what it is and to which I don’t ascribe an exclusive masculinity to those men whose voices sound like a Nick Nolte life-weary grizzly bear.

Nick Nolte 2008 (2544500287).jpg

Above: Nick Nolte, 2008

I know few persons that love the sound of their own voice and those that do generally are overcompensating in their need for attention – their quest to be loved driving away those that might love them.

Hearing my voice recorded has never been a sound my ears accept with equanimity but I do modestly believe that my singing in the shower is divine.

I love Singing in The Shower - Home | Facebook

No, a man’s voice, excepting those who imitate others impressionively like Jim Carrey or the late great Robin Williams, is generally acceptable to me regardless of whatever octaves it unconsciously follows.

Jim Carrey 2008.jpg

Above: Jim Carrey, 2008

Robin Williams Happy Feet premiere.jpg

Above: Robin Williams (1951 – 2014)

But I find the painting of a man’s fingernails disconcerting, for I find myself in a quandry as to how I am supposed to react to the feminine imposed upon the masculine.

I have lived long enough to have witnessed cross-dressers and transgender folks and all manner of combinations of gender assignations.

They are human beings such as myself, but unlike myself I cannot claim to comprehend why a man would choose to wear female accoutrements simultaneously with an overall male appearance.

19 Things You Didn't Know About The Movie "The Birdcage" | Character actor,  Movies, Actors

Above: Gene Hackman, The Birdcage (1996)

Truth be told, female decoration confuses me as well – this idea that a woman is somehow not beautiful unless her face and nails are painted and lips glisten with waxy lipstick.

Do women truly believe they are uninteresting, unattractive, if cosmetics are not added?

Is it all for the notion of plumage that attracts a mate?

Is it all one comic distraction from the idea that women must maintain an illusion of childhood as they age?

How many women truly resemble Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Edition supermodels?

And with so much attention to detail I find myself wondering where is the real woman beneath?

SI Swim 2020 - Swimsuit | SI.com

Yes, many women mystify the simple man that I am.

But this confusion is multiplied when men assume feminine foppery.

Except for a larger assortment of styles that they are offered, what advantages are there for a man to imitate a woman?

Is there something inherently unexciting in the appearance of an average man?

A side profile of a man running with a silver briefcase in hand. Behind him a cityscape.

Take your average wedding.

The bride is the absolute centre of everyone’s attention.

The groom is dressed in similarity to the other men in the chapel.

Is it any wonder that the priest asks the bride whether she will “take THIS man to be your lawfully wedded husband” to help her distinguish him from the rest of the male members of the congregation?

I digress, for that is what I do.

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I do not stare at Zachary.

I do not say or make any sign of my discomfort with his painted hands, but I record my ruminations in my travellogue.

I find myself trying to puzzle both his fashion choices and my unsettledness with them.

My mind balks against the idea of pigeonholing the honourable servant and yet I find it disturbs me that the need to do so still lurks behind my eyes.

Have I truly become old, unaccepting of that which I cannot comprehend?

Grumpy Old Men .jpg

Granted that the Canada I left behind at the end of the 1990s is not the same country I encounter in 2020: women can be topless on Canadian beaches, members of the LGBTQ community can intermarry one another, marijuana is publicly and commonly sold.

This is not the Canada of my youth and, to be fair, it would be strange if changes had never happened.

A vertical triband design (red, white, red) with a red maple leaf in the center.

But perhaps had I been around in the midst of these changes rather than suddenly running into them dramatically my reactions might be more nonchalant.

It bothers me that I am bothered.

As it is I feel I am travelling within the canvas of a Picasso painting rather than the Van Gogh that I used to know.

Above: Pablo Picasso’s The Three Musicians (1921)

A landscape in which the starry night sky takes up two-thirds of the picture. In the left foreground a dark pointed cypress tree extends from the bottom to the top of the picture. To the left, village houses and a church with a tall steeple are clustered at the foot of a mountain range. The sky is deep blue. In the upper right is a yellow crescent moon surrounded by a halo of light. There are many bright stars large and small, each surrounded by swirling halos. Across the centre of the sky the Milky Way is represented as a double swirling vortex.

Above: Vincent Van Gogh’s The Starry Night (1899)

Mine is a two-hour, 40-minute journey from Kingston to Toronto’s Union Station with seven stations in between, at which four stations (Belleville, Cobourg, Oshawa and Guildwood) the train stops.

The journey feels longer.

First stop: Belleville.

Skyline of Downtown Belleville

Belleville was originally the site of an Anishinaabe (Mississaugas) village in the 18th century known as Asukhknosk, the future location of the city was settled by United Empire Loyalists.

Above: Flag of the United Empire Loyalists

It was first called Singleton’s Creek after an early settler, George Singleton, and then as Meyer’s Creek after prominent settler and industrialist John Walden Meyers, one of the founders of Belleville who built a sawmill and grist mill.

Meyer’s Creek was renamed Belleville in honour of Lady Annabella Gore in 1816, after a visit to the settlement by Sir Francis Gore (1769 – 1852) (colonial administrator of Upper Canada/Ontario) and his wife.

Above: Portrait of Sir Francis Gore

In 1870, Belleville became the site of Ontario’s first school for the deaf.

Under Dr. Charles B. Coughlin, the school was recognized as making a significant contribution to special education.

Originally called the Ontario Institution for the Education of the Deaf and Dumb, the facility was first renamed Ontario School for the Deaf and then, in 1974, the Sir James Whitney School (after the former Ontario Premier).

Sir James Whitney School for the Deaf.jpg

Above: Sir James Whitney School for the Deaf

The Dixie Lee Fried Chicken chain (1964) and the Journey’s End Corporation economy limited service hotel chain (1978) were both founded in the city.

Logo of the French Maid (which is used exclusively in the Maritime Provinces and part of Quebec) or the plump and friendly dancing Chicken and Fish (which is used in the rest of Canada and the USA)

Above: Logos of Dixie Lee: French maid is used in the Maritimes and Québec / Chicken & fish in the rest of Canada and in the US

Procter & Gamble (P&G), Kellogg’s, Bardon Supplies Limited, Redpath, Sigma Stretch Film Canada, Hexo Cannabis, Autosystems Manufacturing (Magna International), Amer Sports Canada, and Avaya (formerly Nortel) are corporations operating in Belleville.

Procter & Gamble logo.svg

Kellogg's-Logo.svg

Avaya Logo.svg

Many other manufacturing sector companies operate within the City of Belleville, including Bioniche Life Sciences, Sprague Foods, Airborne Systems Canada Ltd, Berry Plastics Canada, CPK Interior Products, Hanon (formerly Halla) Climate Control Canada, Reid’s Dairy, Parmalat Canada – Black Diamond Cheese Division and Norampac Inc.

Belleville is home to two shopping malls:

The Bay View Village in east-end Belleville and the Quinte Mall along Bell Boulevard (south of Highway 401) in North Belleville.

In January 2017 a Shorelines Casino opened on Bell Boulevard.

Bayview Village

Quinte Mall (Belleville) - 2020 All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (with  Photos) - Tripadvisor

Shorelines Casino Belleville - Great Canadian Gaming Corporation

The Belleville Senators play in the American Hockey League (AHL) that began play in the 2017 – 2018 season as the top minor league affiliate of the National Hockey League’s (NHL) Ottawa Senators.

They play at the CAA Arena located on 265 Cannifton Road.

Belleville Senators logo.svg

Above: Logo of the Belleville Senators

Albert College is a co-educational independent boarding and day school located in Belleville.

It is the oldest co-ed boarding independent school in Canada and the only private boarding school in Belleville.

Albert College currently has an enrollment of approximately 300 students from over 20 different countries.

The school comprises an Early Primary Learning Centre (Pre-Kindergarten and Junior Kindergarten), a Junior School (Senior Kindergarten to Grade 6), a Middle School (Grades 7 and 8), and a Senior School (Grades 9 to 12 and Post-Graduate).

Albert College Campus.jpg

Above: Albert College

Lighting devices that range from boat, buggy and bicycle lamps to a candle holder meant to clip onto a Bible are displayed at the Hastings County Museum.

The more than 300 devices, collected by Dr. and Mrs. William Paul, include torches, two saucer lamps from Palestine (circa 600 BC) and candles from ancient Rome (twisted fibres of papyrus dipped in sulphur and coated with wax).

There are examples of containers for the flint and steel used before matches: a “gentleman’s tinder box” and Chinese chuck-muck pouches of elephant hide.

There are Inuit soapstone lamps, seashell lamps and lamps in the form of boats, snakes, frogs, birds, animals and humans.

An early Italian bronze lighter has cobra figures for handles.

Candle holders in the collection are made of wood, glass, iron, alabaster, tin and bronze.

A votive lamp made of white marble and decorated with cobras comes from a temple in India.

A 1st-century yellow pottery lamp unearthed on the Mount of Olives in the Holy Land is decorated with a Maltese cross.

The Museum houses the Couldery collection of fine European and Oriental furniture, silver and jewelry, along with more than 200 paintings.

An 18th-century Pier mirror on a marble-topped base is decorated with painted flowers to hide cracks in the glass.

Postcard of Hastings County Museum - Discover CABHC

Above: The former Hastings County Museum

The Museum is in Glanmore House (1880).

With its bay windows and mansard roof and lavish French rococo design, the Museum is a prime example of high Victorian architecture.

Glanmore

Above: Glanmore House

Belleville is a cheese-producing centre.

The curing and storage warehouse of the Ontario Cheese Producers’ Marketing Board is here and the Black Diamond cheese plant, the largest in Ontario, produces more than 25 million pounds of cheese a year.

Black Diamond Cheese - Wikiwand

A plaque at the Corby Public Library (223 Pinnacle Street) honours Sir Horatio Gilbert George Parker, a Canadian-born member of the British Parliament (1900 – 1918) and the author of several novels set in Canada.

Ordained in 1885, Parker (1862 – 1932) served briefly as lay reader and deacon at St. Thomas Anglican Church here before leaving Canada for a journalism career in Australia.

His success there led him to London (England) where he published Pierre and His People (1892), a collection of adventure tales of the Northwest that became internationally popular, along with many historical novels.

Read the Plaque - Sir Gilbert Parker 1862-1932

The best of his novels are those in which he first took for his subject the history and life of French Canadians.

His permanent literary reputation rests on the fine quality, descriptive and dramatic, of his Canadian stories. 

Pierre and his People (1892) was followed by Mrs. Falchion (1893), The Trail of the Sword (1894), When Valmond came to Pontiac (1895), An Adventurer of Icy North (1895), and The Seats of the Mighty (1896). 

The Seats of the Mighty was a historical novel depicting the English conquest of Quebec with James Wolfe (1727 – 1759) and the Marquis de Montcalm (1712 – 1759) as two of the characters. 

The Lane that Had No Turning (1900), a collection of short stories set in the fictional Quebec town of Pontiac, contains some of his best work, and is viewed by some as being in the tradition of such Gothic classics as Bram Stoker’s (1847 – 1912) Dracula and Henry James’s (1843 – 1916) The Turn of the Screw

In The Battle of the Strong (1898) he broke new ground, laying his scene in the Channel Islands.

His chief later books were The Right of Way (1901), Donovan Pasha (1902), The Ladder of Swords (1904), The Weavers (1907), Northern Lights (1909) and The Judgment House (1913).

Parker had three books that made it into the top 10 on the annual list of bestselling novels in the United States, two of which were on it for two years in a row.

The 1905 New International Encyclopaedia claimed that it was the “dramatic quality of his books [which] won for them their considerable popularity, despite their disregard of truth in local color.”

Portrait of Gilbert Parker.jpg

Above: Sir Gilbert Parker

Sir Gilbert Parker is also known for his poetry, in particular the sonnet Reunited.

The English composer Sir Edward Elgar (1857 – 1934) set to music three of Parker’s romantic poems: 

  • Oh, soft was the song 
  • Twilight
  • Was it some Golden Star? 

….. in 1910, as part of an uncompleted song-cycle, his Opus 59.

image of a middle aged man in late Victorian clothes, viewed in right semi-profile. He has a prominent Roman nose and large moustache

Above: Edward Elgar

Elgar also set to music Parker’s little poem Inside the Bar, written in 1917 as a sequel to his setting of Rudyard Kipling’s (1865 – 1936) wartime nautical poems in The Fringes of the Fleet.

Kipling in 1895

Above: Rudyard Kipling

The British put forth a large effort to find an able and persuasive writer to effectively communicate with the Americans.

They decided to use Sir Gilbert Parker.

The British supplied Parker with a “large propaganda office” to plan, write, and distribute the new technique of British propaganda.

His main objective was to create new relationships and hold onto existing ones with American citizens.

His writings, known as the “White Papers” were sent into the New York Times in 1914.

The subheading of the article read, “A Modest Appeal from Sir Gilbert Parker to read the British Side.”

To do this, Gilbert showered the American people with writings from people such as Rudyard Kipling, H.G. Wells (1866 – 1946), John Galsworthy (1867 – 1933), Arnold Bennett (1867 – 1931) and George Bernard Shaw (1856 – 1950).

Join at Once. Fight for the Dear Old Flag. (UK, 1915) | Ww1 propaganda  posters, Ww1 posters, Propaganda

Using his fame and character, Sir Gilbert Parker flattered the American press with eloquent words and compliments.

He called the Americans “fighting people“.

He also said that “this war will prove them to have everything that they have always had—courage, swiftness if conception, capacity to perform, and a lightning-like directness.”

His writings essentially “educated” the one source that he knew would reach the majority of Americans.

The Complete Works of Gilbert Parker (36 Complete Works of Gilbert Parker  Including A Lovers Diary,

However, Parker didn’t stop there:

He continued to spread his “knowledge” by distributing “propaganda material” to American libraries, educational institutions, and periodicals.

While focusing on professional establishments he continued to create personal relationships with American elites, such as college professors, scientists, doctors, politicians, etc.

His method of establishing personal relationships was a landmark later used in other methods of propaganda, “it was the complete and skillful technique later to be developed by many other propagandists, lobbyists, and public relations council.”

Flag of the United States

Practically since the day war broke out I was responsible for American publicity.”

Parker played a crucial and significant role in British propaganda during World War I.

Due to his strategic marriage to Amy VanTine, reputation as a writer, and social status among the American people, he had established many friendships with influential Americans in all professions.

On 2 September 1914, Parker was chosen by Charles Masterman (1873 – 1927) and the British government to head the subdivision of Wellington House that was responsible for American propaganda.

Parker was unpaid and had no formal title for this role.

His goal was to convince America to support the British cause in the war.

He worked with the theory that the British cause could not be accomplished through “violent wooing“, but must instead be efforts of “gentle and modest courtship.”

1923 CFG Masterman.jpg

Above: Charles Masterson

Parker’s activities at the beginning of World War I included performing a long analysis of the American press and establishing a mailing list based on the American Who’s Who.

His mailing list including 260,000 influential Americans as well as public libraries, YMCAs, universities, colleges, clubs, and newspapers.

He sent propaganda literature that was generated by Wellington House to those on his mailing list, but the letters only carried Parker’s name, never mentioning Wellington House or the British government.

Buy War Tax #MR1 - (1915) 1¢ | Arpin Philately

Each publication he sent had a personal letter enclosed in order to portray him as an English patriot performing his duty.

His objective was to gain the trust of Americans by appearing friendly and honest.

He wrote in a tone that suggested he was a supporter of the British cause, but desired to promote international understanding, and that he was open to hearing all viewpoints.

This tactic convinced many Americans that their role in the war was important, and many sympathized with the British cause as a result of his efforts.

Amazon.com: Crossed Poles USA & UK Union Jack Waving Flags Sticker (american  british): Automotive

Parker continued his propaganda efforts up until the year the United States entered the war in 1917.

At the beginning of 1917, he visited the United States to meet with Americans he had been corresponding with.

On 3 February 1917, President Woodrow Wilson (1856 – 1924) made a speech during Parker’s visit that severed diplomatic ties with Germany.

The US had almost declared war and Parker believed that he had fulfilled his responsibilities.

Later that same day, he resigned from his position at Wellington House, due to, he said, his failing health.

Thomas Woodrow Wilson, Harris & Ewing bw photo portrait, 1919.jpg

Above: Woodrow Wilson

All of Wellington House’s activities were kept in complete secrecy.

This increased the credibility of their publications, because they could not be traced back to any official sources.

Wellington House, Westminster, London

Above: Wellington House, London

Parker’s letters concealed their connection and origin with the British government, and his American contacts never realized they were being manipulated.

Today his influence on the First World War and America’s entry into it is often overlooked, even by seemingly comprehensive propaganda analysis.

The propaganda posters that sold World War I to the American public,  1914-1918 - Rare Historical Photos

A monument on the Armoury lawn honours Sir Mackenzie Bowell, Prime Minister of Canada (1894 – 1896).

A printer’s apprentice at the Belleville Intelligencer as a youth, Bowell became owner and editor of the newspaper.

SIR MACKENZIE BOWELL K.C.M.G. 1823-1917 | Historical Plaques Map

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Above: Mackenzie Bowell

In December 1894, Prime Minister Sir David Thompson died suddenly, and Bowell, as the most senior Cabinet minister, was appointed in Thompson’s stead by the Governor General.

John Thompson.jpg

Above: David Thompson (1845 – 1494)

Bowell thus became the second of just two Canadian Prime Ministers (after John Abbott) to hold that office while serving in the Senate rather than the House of Commons.

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Above: John Abbott (1821 – 1893)

As Prime Minister, Bowell faced the Manitoba Schools Question.

In 1890 Manitoba had abolished public funding for denominational schools, both Catholic and Protestant, which many thought was contrary to the provisions made for denominational schools in the Manitoba Act of 1870.

However, in a court challenge, the Judicial Committee of the Privy Council held that Manitoba’s abolition of public funding for denominational schools was consistent with the Manitoba Act provision.

In a second court case, the Judicial Committee held that the federal Parliament had the authority to enact remedial legislation to force Manitoba to re-establish the funding.

Above: Wood Lake School, Manitoba, 1896

Bowell and his predecessors struggled to solve this problem, which divided the country, the government, and even Bowell’s own Cabinet.

He was further hampered in his handling of the issue by his own indecisiveness on it and by his inability, as a Senator, to take part in debates in the House of Commons.

Bowell backed legislation, already drafted, that would have forced Manitoba to restore its Catholic schools, but then postponed it due to opposition within his Cabinet.

With the ordinary business of government at a standstill, Bowell’s Cabinet decided that he was incompetent to lead and so, to force him to step down, seven ministers resigned and then foiled the appointment of successors.

Though Bowell denounced the rebellious ministers as “a nest of traitors“, he had to agree to resign.

Old Parliament Hill Ottawa Ontario Canada | Ottawa ontario, Ontario canada,  Canada

Above: Parliament Hill, Ottawa, 1895

After ten days, following an intervention on Bowell’s behalf by the Governor General, the government crisis was resolved and matters seemingly returned to normal when six of the ministers were reinstated, but leadership was then effectively held by Charles Tupper, who had joined Cabinet at the same time, filling the seventh place.

Tupper, who had been Canadian High Commissioner to the United Kingdom, had been recalled by the plotters to replace Bowell.

Bowell formally resigned in favour of Tupper at the end of the parliamentary session.

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Above: Charles Tupper (1821 – 1915)

Bowell stayed in the Senate, serving as his party’s leader there until 1906, and afterward as a regular Senator until his death in 1917, having served continuously for more than 50 years as a federal parliamentarian.

He died of pneumonia in Belleville, 17 days short of his 94th birthday.

He is buried in the Belleville cemetery.

His funeral was attended by a full complement of the Orange Order, but not by any currently or formerly elected member of the government.

Sir Mackenzie Bowell - Belleville Cemetery, ON - Grave of a Famous Person on  Waymarking.com

Until 2017, Bowell remained the only Canadian prime minister without a full-length biography of his life and career.

This shortfall was solved when the Belleville historian Betsy Dewar Boyce‘s book The Accidental Prime Minister was published by Bancroft, Ontario publisher Kirby Books.

The book was published on the centennial of Bowell’s death.

Boyce had died in 2007, having unsuccessfully sought a publisher for her work for a decade.

Bookshelf One

Susanna Moodie (1803 – 1885) was born in Bungay, on the River Waveney in Suffolk, England.

She was the youngest sister of a family of writers, including Agnes Strickland (1796 – 1874), Jane Margaret Strickland (1800 -1888) and Catherine Parr Traill (1802 – 1899).

She wrote her first children’s book in 1822, and published other children’s stories in London, including books about Spartucus (111 – 71 BC) and Jugurtha (160 – 104 BC).

In London she was also involved in the Anti-Slavery Society, transcribing the narrative of the former Caribbean slave Mary Prince (1788 – 1833).

SusannahMoodie.jpeg

Above: Susanna Moodie

On 4 April 1831, she married John Moodie (1797 – 1869), a retired officer who had served in the Napoleonic Wars (1803 – 1815).

In 1832, with her husband and daughter, Moodie immigrated to Upper Canada (Ontario).

The family settled on a farm in Douro Township, near Lakefield, where her brother Samuel Strickland (1804–1867) worked as a surveyor, and where artifacts are housed in a museum.

John Wedderburn Dunbar Moodie.jpg

Above: John Moodie

Founded by Samuel, the museum was formerly an Anglican church and overlooks the Otanbee River where Susanna once canoed.

It also displays artifacts concerning Samuel, as well as her elder sister and fellow writer Catharine, who married a friend of John Moodie and emigrated to the same area a few weeks before Susanna and John.

Christ Church Community Museum, 62 Queen St, Lakefield, ON (2020)

Moodie continued to write in Canada and her letters and journals contain valuable information about life in the colony.

She observed life in what was then the backwoods of Ontario, including native customs, the climate, the wildlife, relations between the Canadian population and recent American settlers, and the strong sense of community and the communal work, known as “bees” (which she, incidentally, hated).

She suffered through the economic depression of 1836, and her husband served in the militia against William Lyon Mackenzie (1795 – 1861) in the Upper Canada Rebellion of 1837.

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Above: William Lyon Mackenzie

As a middle-class Englishwoman, Moodie did not particularly enjoy “the bush“, as she called it.

In 1840 she and her husband moved to Belleville, which she referred to as “the clearings“.

Life in the Clearings versus the Bush by Susanna Moodie

She studied the Family Compact and became sympathetic to the moderate reformers led by Robert Baldwin (1804 – 1858), while remaining critical of radical reformers such as William Lyon Mackenzie.

This caused problems for her husband, who shared her views, but, as sheriff of Belleville, had to work with members and supporters of the Family Compact.

RobertBaldwin23.jpg

Above: Robert Baldwin

(The Family Compact is the term used by historians for a small closed group of men who exercised most of the political, economic and judicial power in Upper Canada from the 1810s to the 1840s.

It was the Upper Canadian equivalent of the Château Clique in Lower Canada (Québec).

It was noted for its conservatism and opposition to democracy.

The Family Compact emerged from the War of 1812 and collapsed in the aftermath of the Rebellions of 1837.

Their resistance to the political principle of responsible government contributed to its short life.

At the end of its lifespan, the compact would be condemned by Lord Durham (1792 – 1840) as “a petty corrupt insolent Tory clique“.)

The Rebellions of 1837 Family Compact The Chateau Clique - ppt video online  download

Moodie’s greatest literary success was Roughing It in the Bush.

The inspiration for the memoir came from a suggestion by her editor that she write an “emigrant’s guide” for British people looking to move to Canada.

Moodie wrote of the trials and tribulations she found as a “New Canadian“, rather than the advantages to be had in the colony.

She claimed that her intention was not to discourage immigrants but to prepare people like herself, raised in relative wealth and with no prior experience as farmers, for what life in Canada would be like.

Roughing It In The Bush by Susanna Moodie | Penguin Random House Canada

Moodie taught her daughter Agnes how to paint flowers.

Agnes later illustrated Canadian Wild Flowers, published in 1868.

Canadian Wild Flowers [Wildflowers]: Traill, Catherine Parr, Agnes  Fitzgibbon: 9781894572828: Amazon.com: Books

Susanna Moodie moved to Belleville in 1840, when her husband John was appointed sheriff of Hastings County.

Her literary career flowered here.

vintage 1976 PB book Life In The Clearings by Susanna Moodie pioneering  times | eBay

Before the move Moodie had been writing at her home in Douro Township for John Lovell’s Montréal magazine the Literary Garland, which in 1847 published several chapters of her most famous book, Roughing It in the Bush, based on the discouraging farming ventures of the Moodies at Dale’s Corners and in Douro Township.

Moodie followed Roughing It with an account of life in Belleville, called Life in the Clearings (1853), which took a more optimistic approach to the experience of immigrants in Ontario.

Roughing It in the Bush by Susanna Moodie

Both Susanna and John were writers.

They assumed joint editorship in 1847 of the Victorian Magazine, founded in Belleville by John Wilson.

The magazine failed in 1848 after only 12 issues.

Read the Plaque - Susanna Moodie 1803-1885

A third Belleville book, Flora Lyndsay (or Passages in an Eventful Life)(1853) is the fictionalized story of Susanna moodie’s life in England and her trip to Canada.

While living in Belleville she also published several Gothic romances, including Mark Hurdlestone (or The Gold Worshipper) (1853), Matrimonial Speculations (1854), The Faithless Guardian (1855) and The World Before Them (1868).

Her long-time Belleville home stands at 114 Bridge Street West and now belongs to the author Leo Simpson.

The house is a national historic site and is marked with a plaque.

Susanna Moodie house on Bridge Street West at corner of Sinclair Street -  Discover CABHC

Above: Susanna Moodie House

Following her husband’s death in 1869, Susanna left Belleville and lived alternately with her children in Toronto and with her sister, Catharine Parr Traill, in Lakefield.

Moodie died in Toronto in 1885 and is buried beside her husband in Belleville.

Belleville Author Susanna Moodie Remains an Icon in Canadian Literature —  Country Roads, Celebrating Life in Hastings County

The comic novelist Leo Simpson (1932 – 2018) came to Canada from his native Ireland in 1961 and lived in nearby Madoc, north of Belleville, since 1972.

He and his wife, a native of Belleville, restored the Susanna Moodie House in Belleville, which they own.

Simpson moved to the district in 1966 from Toronto, where he worked for Macmillan’s (a publishing house).

SIMPSON, Leo James Simpson - Obituary - Canadian Obituaries

Above: Leo Simpson

Simpson settled first in Queensborough Township before moving to Madoc.

His first novel, Arkwright (1971) is set in Toronto, but both The Peacock Papers (1973) and Kowalski’s Last Chance (1980) take place in the fictional town of Bradfarrow, modelled on Belleville.

Kowalski's Last Chance: Simpson, Leo: 9780772012814: Amazon.com: Books

The poet Al Purdy (1918 – 2000), a native of nearby Wooler, was educated at Albert College and in the late 1940s he operated the Diamond Taxi Company in nearby Trenton.

Purdy’s writing career spanned 56 years.

His works include 39 books of poetry, a novel, two volumes of memoirs and four books of correspondence, in addition to his posthumous works.

He has been called the nation’s “unofficial poet laureate” and “a national poet in a way that you only find occasionally in the life of a culture.”

Al Purdy - Poems by the Famous Poet - All Poetry

Above: Al Purdy

He dropped out of school at 17 and rode the rails west to Vancouver.

He served in the Royal Canadian Air Force during World War II.

Following the war, he worked in various jobs until the 1960s, when he was finally able to support himself as a writer, editor and poet.

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Above: Al Purdy Memorial, Queen’s Park, Toronto

In 1957, Purdy and his wife Eurithe moved to Roblin Lake in Ameliasburgh (southeast of Trenton, in Prince Edward County), where they built an A-frame cottage, which became his preferred location for writing.

In his later years, he divided his time between North Saanich, British Columbia and his cottage at Roblin Lake.

In addition to his poems and novel, Purdy’s work includes two volumes of memoirs, the most recent of which was Reaching for the Beaufort Sea.

He also wrote four books of correspondence, including Margaret Laurence – Al Purdy: A Friendship in Letters and radio and television plays for the CBC.

He was writer-in-residence at several Canadian universities, contributed to Acta Victoriana (the literary journal of Victoria College) and edited a number of anthologies of poetry.

Al Purdy - Ontario Heritage Trust

Above: Al Purdy

He wrote the introduction to the last book of poetry by his friend Milton Acorn (1923 – 1986), The Whiskey Jack.

Purdy was also a long-time friend of American author Charles Bukowski (1920 – 1994).

Bukowski once said:

I don’t know of any good living poets, but there’s this tough son of a bitch up in Canada that walks the line.

Charles Bukowski smoking.jpg

Above: Charles Bukowski

However, acclaim is not universal.

Noted Canadian formalist poet James Pollock, when asked to “Name one poet, living or dead, it seems everyone loves but you,” answered:

In Canada, Al Purdy.

The emperor has no clothes.

James Pollock – Griffin Poetry Prize

Above: James Pollack

Al Purdy died in North Saanich.

His final collection of poetry, Beyond Remembering: The Collected Poems of Al Purdy, was released posthumously in the fall of 2000.

Beyond Remembering: The Collected Poems of Al Purdy: Purdy, Al, Atwood,  Margaret, Solecki, Sam: 9781550172256: Books - Amazon.ca

Farley Mowat (1921 – 2014) was born in Belleville.

He spent his first years in a 3rd floor apartment over the Corby Public Library, where his father Angus Mowat worked as a librarian.

A native if nearby Trenton, Angus later took the family west to Saskatoon, Saskatchewan.

A novelist as well as a librarian, Angus’ books include Then I’ll Look Up (1938) and Carrying Place (1941).

Farley’s many works of non-fiction, beginning with People of the Deer (1952), include The Regiment (1973), the history of the Second World War regiment raised by the counties of Hastings and Prince Edward.

Mowat in 2010

Above: Farley Mowat

Farley McGill Mowat was a Canadian writer and environmentalist.

His works were translated into 52 languages and he sold more than 17 million books.

He achieved fame with the publication of his books on the Canadian north, such as People of the Deer (1952) and Never Cry Wolf (1963).

The latter, an account of his experiences with wolves in the Arctic, was made into a film of the same name released in 1983.

People of the Deer - Wikipedia

Mowat’s advocacy for environmental causes earned him praise, but his admission, after some of his books’ claims had been debunked, that he “never let the facts get in the way of the truth” earned harsh criticism: “few readers remain neutral“.

Descriptions of Mowat refer to his “commitment to ideals” and “poetic descriptions and vivid images” as well as his strong antipathies, which provoke “ridicule, lampoons and, at times, evangelical condemnation“.

Never Cry Wolf: Mowat, Farley: 9780553203318: Amazon.com: Books

I cannot say that I am a fan of any of Mowat’s works listed above, though I have always enjoyed his Lost in the Wilderness and The Boat Who Wouldn’t Float.

Amazon.com: The Boat Who Wouldn't Float (9780553277883): Farley Mowat: Books

As to Mowat’s criticism, I once had the pleasure and privilege of spending a warm summer’s afternoon with Canadian naturalist R.D. Lawrence (1921 – 2003) at his home “Wolf Hallow” in Haliburton County.

Lawrence’s nickname for Mowat was “Hardly Know-It“.

RD Lawrence.jpg

Above: Ronald Douglas Lawrence

Lee Aaron (née Karen Lynn Greening) is a Canadian rock singer.

She had several hits in the 1980s and early 1990s, such as “Metal Queen“, “Whatcha Do to My Body“, and “Sex with Love“.

Aaron was born as in Belleville and began singing in school musicals at the age of five.

She attended high school in Brampton.

To my surprise, I find myself enjoying her music as YouTube flashes across my phone’s screen.

Aaron performing in Toronto (1987)

Above: Lee Aaron

Dennis Bock (born in Belleville) is a Canadian novelist and short story writer, lecturer at the University of Toronto, travel writer and book reviewer.

His novel Going Home Again was published in Canada by HarperCollins and in the US by Alfred A. Knopf in August 2013.

The Communist’s Daughter, published by HarperCollins in Canada and Knopf in the US in 2006, and later in France, the Netherlands, Greece and Poland, is a retelling of the final years in the life of the Canadian surgeon Norman Bethune.

His first novel, The Ash Garden, about various kinds of fallout from the Hiroshima bomb, was published in 2001.

It won the 2002 Canada-Japan Literary Award and has been published in translation in Spain, Argentina, Japan, the Netherlands, Italy, Germany, France and Greece.

Bock was reviewed in The Los Angeles Times and The New York Times (by Michiko Kakutani).

His short stories have appeared in Glimmer TrainThe Penguin Book of Canadian Short StoriesThe Journey Prize Anthology, and Coming Attractions. 

His travel writing and book reviews appear in The Globe and Mail, The National Post, The Washington Post, and Outpost Magazine.

Dennis Bock (Author of The Ash Garden)

Above: Dennis Bock

Wilfred Leigh Brintnell (1895 – 1971) was a pioneering Canadian aviator.

Born at Belleville, Brintnell joined the Royal Flying Corps (RFC) in Canada in 1917.

A pilot, Brintnell instructed until his discharge in 1919, for the RFC at Fort Worth, Texas, the Royal Air Force at Camp Borden, Ontario, and the RAF in Upavon, England.

Thereafter, he served as a commercial pilot with various operations.

In 1927, he took employment with Western Canada Airways, quickly rising to the position of manager.

Pilot Wilfred 'Leigh' Brintnell is in the Spotlight during Veteran's Week –  The Maple Leaf

He was involved in several historic events between 1928 and 1931, including:

  • piloting the first multi-engined return flight from Winnipeg, Manitoba to Vancouver, British Columbia
  • the first flight around Great Bear Lake
  • the first over-the-mountains flight from Aklavik, Northwest Territories to Dawson City, Yukon Territory 
  • He also flew an historic 9,000 mile trip from Winnipeg across the Northwest Territories to Alaska.

Mr. Wilfred Leigh Brintnell - Canada.ca

Above: Wilfred Brintnell

He left Canadian Airways Limited, the successor company of Western Canada Airways, soon after being appointed assistant general manager in 1931 so that he could form the Mackenzie Air Service Limited in Edmonton, Alberta.

He sold the company to the Canadian Pacific Railway Company in 1940, but stayed on to help expand that business into Canadian Pacific Airlines.

Canadian Pacific Air Lines.svg

During World War II, he became a manager at Aircraft Repair Limited, overseeing the effort to maintain Canadian military aircraft.

After the war, he first managed Northwest Industries Limited at Edmonton before, in 1952, operating aerial photographic business Arctic Air Lines.

He died at Edmonton and was inducted into Canada’s Aviation Hall of Fame (Wetaskiwin, Alberta) in 1976.

CAHF

Stevie Cameron was born in Belleville, as the daughter of Harold Edward Dahl (1909 – 1956), a mercenary American pilot who fought in the Spanish Republican Air Force during the Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939).

Cameron has an honours B.A. in English from the University of British Columbia, worked for the Department of External Affairs in Ottawa in the 1960s, attended graduate school at University College London, England, for three years, and taught English literature at Trent University.

After a year at the Cordon Bleu Cooking School in Paris in 1975, she began working as a food writer.

Stevie Cameron (@stevie_cameron) | Twitter

Above: Stevie Cameron

In 1977, she became the food editor of the Toronto Star.

A year later she moved to the Ottawa Journal as lifestyles editor.

She later became the Ottawa Citizen‘s lifestyles and travel editor.

Four years later she joined a new investigative journalism unit at the Citizen and also became a national political columnist.

Cameron now lives in Toronto with her husband, David Cameron, a professor at the University of Toronto.

They have two daughters, who are both screenwriters.

Stevie Cameron: 'There are lots of Mr. Picktons around' - The Globe and Mail

Above: Stevie Cameron

In 1986 Cameron moved to Toronto as a national columnist and reporter for the Globe and Mail, and published her first book, in 1989, called Ottawa Inside Out.

In 1990 she became a host of the CBC TV public affairs program The Fifth Estate, but returned to the Globe in 1991 as a freelance columnist and feature writer.

Ottawa Inside Out: Power, Prestige, and Scandal in the Nation's Capital:  Cameron, Stevie: 9781550131505: Amazon.com: Books

Her second book, On the Take: Crime, Corruption and Greed in the Mulroney Years, was published in 1994.

The book raised questions about the ethics of former Progressive Conservative Prime Minister Brian Mulroney and his alleged involvement in secret commissions paid by Karlheinz Schreiber to members of the Government of Canada and to Conservative-linked lobbyists, in exchange for then-Crown Corporation Air Canada’s purchase of 34 Airbus jets.

Mulroney.jpg

Above: Brian Mulroney, 1984

Urteil gegen Waffenlobbyist Schreiber ist rechtskräftig - DER SPIEGEL

Above: Karlheinz Schreiber

Airbus Logo 2017.svg

It was one of the first full-length works to dig into the Airbus Affair in Canada.

The book also documented several other corruption scandals during the period.

It became the number one best-selling non-fiction book in Canada in both 1994 and 1995.

In 1995, Cameron joined Maclean’s magazine as a contributor for investigative stories.

On the take : Stevie Cameron : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming :  Internet Archive

In 1998 she published her third book, Blue Trust.

The book profiled the bizarre life and death of Bruce Verchere, a Montreal tax lawyer and partner in the national law firm Bennett Jones LLP, who had served as private financial advisor to Mulroney, before committing suicide in late summer 1993.

By Stevie Cameron Blue Trust: The Author, the Lawyer, His Wife and Her  Money [Mass Market Paperback]: Amazon.com: Books

Verchere had left his wife, a very successful entrepreneur, for an affair with the much younger Diane Hailey, daughter of novelist Arthur Hailey, a Verchere client.

Just before his suicide, Verchere had been appointed as chairman of Atomic Energy of Canada Limited (AECL).

Atomic Energy of Canada ltd logo.svg

The following year she founded Elm Street, a national general-interest magazine, but continued to write investigative features for Maclean’s.

Three years later she resigned from Elm Street, continuing as a columnist, in order to research and write The Last Amigo, with co-author Harvey Cashore.

This 2001 book is a biography of Schreiber, along with a more detailed examination of the Airbus Affair.

It won a Crime Writers of Canada award as the Best True Crime Book of the Year.

The Last Amigo : Stevie Cameron : 9781551990514

She began researching the Robert Pickton murder case in British Columbia in 2002, and published her first book on the case, The Pickton File, in 2007.

The Pickton File - Kindle edition by Cameron, Stevie. Mystery, Thriller &  Suspense Kindle eBooks @ Amazon.com.

Cameron completed her second book about the Pickton case, On the Farm: Robert William Pickton and the Tragic Story of Vancouver’s Missing Women, which was published by Knopf in the summer of 2010 when a publication ban on the case was lifted after an appeal to the Supreme Court of Canada upheld the trial jury’s guilty verdict.

As well as documenting the botched police investigation that finally led to Pickton’s arrest, the book contains important insights into why Pickton offered help to some of the women he picked up as prostitutes, while brutally murdering others, and how he decided who he would kill.

Amazon.fr - On the Farm: Robert William Pickton and the Tragic Story of  Vancouver's Missing Women - Cameron, Stevie - Livres

Cameron has also been a contributing editor to Maclean’s magazine, a monthly columnist and a contributor to the Toronto Star, the Ottawa Citizen, the Southam news Service, Saturday Night magazine, the Financial Post, Chatelaine and Canadian Living.

Cameron has lectured on journalism schools across the country.

She is currently writing a history of Kingston Penitentiary.

Kingston Pen 1.JPG

Above: Kingston Pen

Cameron serves on the board of Second Harvest in Toronto, as well as on the board of Portland Place, an assisted housing project for homeless and underhoused people.

Second Harvest | Canada's largest food rescue charity – Second Harvest

Portland Place – Non-Profit Housing Corporation

In 1991 she helped found the Out of the Cold program for the homeless at her church, St. Andrew’s, in downtown Toronto, and has worked with many churches across Canada to set up similar programs.

Homeless prefer grassroots Out of the Cold program versus city run shelters  | Help the Homeless - Volunteer

In 2004, she received an honorary Doctor of Divinity from the Vancouver School of Theology, in part for her work with the homeless.

Vancouver School of Theology | Vancouver Foundation

In recognition of more than two decades of humanitarian work and social activism, Cameron was awarded the Order of Canada in December 2012.

Her citation reads:

For her achievements in investigative journalism and for her volunteer work on behalf of the disadvantaged.

Replica Order of Canada member medal.jpg

Truly, a remarkable woman.

STEVIE CAMERON writing book on Vancouver's missing women

Above: Stevie Cameron

James Bertram Collip (1892 – 1965) was a Canadian biochemist who was part of the Toronto group which isolated insulin. 

Born in Belleville, he enrolled at Trinity College at the University of Toronto at the age of 15, and studied physiology and biochemistry.

He obtained a Ph.D. in Biochemistry from the same university in 1916.

J. B. Collip in his office at McGill University ca. 1930.png

Above: J.B. Collip

In 1915, at the age of 22, Collip accepted a lecturing position in Edmonton in the Department of Physiology at the University of Alberta Faculty of Medicine, shortly before completing his doctorate.

He fulfilled the role for seven years, eventually rising to the position of Professor and Head of the Department of Biochemistry in 1922.

His research at the time was mainly focused on blood chemistry of vertebrates and invertebrates.

Above: J.B. Collip

He took a sabbatical leave beginning in April 1921 and travelled to Toronto on a Rockefeller Travelling Scholarship for a six-month position with Professor J.J.R. MacLeod (1876 – 1935) of the University of Toronto’s Department of Physiology.

There his research program (on the effect of pH on the concentration of sugar in the blood) would take him to marine biological stations in Woods Hole, Massachusetts and St. Andrews, New Brunswick before he returned to Toronto late in the year.

J.J.R. Macleod ca. 1928.png

Above: J.J.R. Macleod

MacLeod was overseeing the work of Frederick Banting (1891 – 1941) and Charles Best (1899 – 1978) in their search for a treatment for diabetes which they had begun in May 1921.

In December, when Banting and Best were having difficulties in refining the pancreatic extract, MacLeod freed Collip from his other research to enable him to join the research team.

Collip’s task was to prepare insulin in a more pure, usable form than Banting and Best had been able to achieve to date.

Fredrick banting.jpg

Above: Frederick Banting

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Above: Charles Best

In January 1922, after 14-year-old Leonard Thompson suffered a severe allergic reaction to an injection of insulin, Collip achieved the goal of preparing a pancreatic extract pure enough for him to recover and to use in clinical trials.

Successful trials were soon completed and the future of insulin was assured.

Leonard Thompson Received First Insulin Injection to Treat Diabetes

Banting, Best and Collip subsequently shared the patent for insulin, which they sold to the University of Toronto for one dollar.

Regrettably, due to disagreements between Banting and MacLeod, there was ill-will generated within the team.

Value of July 2nd 1923 Value of July 2nd 1923 $1 Bill from The Dominion of  Canada Bill from The Dominion of Canada | Canadian Currency

The Nobel Prize for Medicine was awarded to Banting and MacLeod in 1923.

Feeling that Best had been overlooked in the award, Banting shared his portion with Best.

In response, MacLeod shared his portion with Collip.

Nonetheless, Collip (and Best) have been largely forgotten as co-discoverers of insulin.

A golden medallion with an embossed image of a bearded man facing left in profile. To the left of the man is the text "ALFR•" then "NOBEL", and on the right, the text (smaller) "NAT•" then "MDCCCXXXIII" above, followed by (smaller) "OB•" then "MDCCCXCVI" below.

Following this early success, Collip returned to Edmonton to take up a position as head of the new Department of Biochemistry, and to pursue his own studies on hormone research.

In 1928 he was recruited to McGill University in Montreal by his former graduate advisor, Archibald Macallum.

Collip served as Chair of McGill’s Department of Biochemistry from 1928 to 1941.

From 1947 to 1961, Collip was appointed Dean of Medicine at the University of Western Ontario. 

He is regarded as a pioneer of endocrine research.

He did pioneering work with the hormone parathyroid (PTH).

He died in 1965 at the age of 72.

Banting and Best (and Macleod and Collip) – Banting House

Herbert Henry Dow (1866 – 1930) was a Belleville-born American chemical industrialist, best known as the founder of the American multinational conglomerate, Dow Chemical.

He was a prolific inventor of chemical processes, compounds, and products, and was a successful businessman.

HDow1888.jpg

Above: Herbert Dow

Following his graduation from Case School of Applied Sciences in 1888, Dow worked for a year as a chemistry professor at Huron Street Hospital College in Cleveland, while continuing his research into the extraction of chemicals from brine.

Water salinity diagram.png

In 1889 Dow received his first patent after inventing a more cost-effective and streamlined process for bromine extraction.

He quickly formed his own company but was bankrupt within the year.

Case Western Reserve University seal.svg

His associates were impressed with his work and in 1890 helped him to found the Midland Chemical Company in Midland, Michigan.

Dow continued his work extracting bromine, and by early 1891 he had invented the Dow process, a method of bromine extraction using electrolysis to oxidize bromide to bromine.

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Above: Bromine (used as flame retardent, in photography, as a gasoline additive, pesticide, sedative, drilling fluid, dye, for water treatment and batteries)

Dow wanted to expand his research of electrolysis to yield other chemicals.

His financial backers did not approve of his continued research and fired him from the Midland Chemical Company.

He continued his research, developing a process to extract chlorine and caustic soda from sodium chloride.

After seeking funding from potential backers in Cleveland, including family friends and former Case School of Applied Science classmates, Dow secured funds from James T. Pardee, Albert W. Smith, J. H. Osborn, and Cady Staley.

In 1895, Dow moved his young family to Ohio and founded the Dow Process Company to develop the production mechanism for his process.

The following year he returned to Midland, where he formed the Dow Chemical Company as successor to the Dow Process Company.

The Dow Process Company was incorporated with 57 original stockholders.

Within three years, his new company purchased the Midland Chemical Company.

Dow Chemical Company logo.svg

With his new company and new technology, Dow produced bromine very cheaply, and began selling it in the United States for 36 cents per pound.

1895 Indian Head Penny Coin Value Prices, Photos & Info

At the time, the German government supported a bromine cartel, the Bromkonvention, which had a near-monopoly on the supply of bromine, which they sold in the US for 49 cents per pound.

The Germans had made it clear that they would dump the market with cheap bromine if Dow attempted to sell his product abroad.

Flag of German Reich

Above: Flag of the German Empire (1867 – 1919)

In 1904 Dow defied the cartel by beginning to export his bromine at its cheaper price to England.

A few months later, an angry Bromkonvention representative visited Dow in his office and reminded him to cease exporting his bromine.

Unafraid, Dow continued exporting to England and Japan.

Electrolytic Production of Bromine - National Historic Chemical Landmark -  American Chemical Society

The German cartel retaliated by dumping the US market with bromine at 15 cents a pound in an effort to put him out of business.

Unable to compete with this predatory pricing in the US, Dow instructed his agents to buy up hundreds of thousands of pounds of the German bromine locally at the low price.

The Dow Company repackaged the bromine and exported it to Europe, selling it even to German companies at 27 cents a pound.

The cartel, having expected Dow to go out of business, was unable to comprehend what was driving the enormous demand for bromine in the US, and where all the cheap imported bromine dumping their market was coming from.

They suspected their own members of violating their price-fixing agreement and selling in Germany below the cartel’s fixed cost.

The cartel continued to slash prices on their bromine in the US, first to 12 cents a pound, and then to 10.5 cents per pound.

The cartel finally caught on to Dow’s tactic and realized that they could not keep selling below cost, they then increased their prices worldwide.

Above: silver bromide

Dow Chemical Company focused on research, and soon was able to extract many more chemicals from brine. 

World War I provided demand that enabled its growth, because Britain blockaded the ports of Germany, which at the time included most of the world’s largest chemical suppliers.

British naval blockade of Germany map | Learnodo Newtonic

Dow Chemical quickly moved to fill the gap for wartime goods, producing magnesium for incendiary flares, monochlorobenzene and phenol for explosives, and bromine for medicines and tear gas.

By 1918, 90% of the Dow Chemical Company production was in support of the war effort.

During this time period, Dow also created the diamond logo, which is still used by the Dow Chemical Company.

Above: Former Dow Chemical Corporate headquarters in Midland, Michigan

Following the conclusion of the war, Dow began to research the benefits of magnesium, which the company had in large supply.

He discovered that it could be used to make automobile pistons.

The new pistons proved to give more speed and better fuel efficiency.

The Dow metal pistons were used heavily in racing vehicles.

The 1921 winner of the Indianapolis 500 used the Dow metal pistons in his vehicle.

1921 Indianapolis 500 - Wikipedia

By the time of his death in 1930 from cirrhosis of the liver, Dow had personally received over 90 patents.

Dow was survived by his wife, Grace, and five of their seven children.

Above: H.H. Dow House, Midland, Michigan

Today The Dow Chemical Company (TDCC) is an American mutinational chemical corporation headquartered in Midland, Michigan. 

The company is among the three largest chemical producers in the world.

Dow manufactures plastics, chemicals and agricultural products.

With a presence in about 160 countries, it employs about 54,000 people worldwide.

Dow has been called the “chemical companies’ chemical company” as its sales are to other industries rather than directly to end-use consumers.

Dow is a member of the American Chemistry Council.

The company tagline is “Seek Together“.

Dow | The Materials Science Company | Explore Products

I sincerely doubt that the boy from Belleville would recognize the company he founded today.

City of Belleville

Above: Belleville

The above names are but a few of the notable people who were born in or lived in Belleville.

Among those not yet mentioned are:

  • writers Marianne Ackerman, Aislinn Hunter, Frances Itani, Rick Mofina, Harry Leslie Smith
  • actors Lauren Ash, Ellie Anne Harvie, Nancy Anne Sakovich
  • ice hockey professionals Drew Bannister, Matt Cooke, Bob Crawford, Lou Crawford, Marc Crawford, Bob Dillabough (1941 – 1997), Rick Green, Bobby Hull, Brett Hull, Dennis Hull, Norm Maracle, Rick Meager, Andrew Raycroft, Brad Richardson, Andrew Shaew, Derek Smith, Matt Stajan, Chris Valentine, Ed Westfall, Ty Wishart
  • professional Canadian footballers Michael Botterill, Brander Craighead, Peter Quinney, Mike Schad
  • musicians Avril Lavigne, Pete Quaife (The Kinks), The Wilkinsons
  • inventor James Marker (Cheezies)(1922 – 2012)
  • Miss Universe 2007 Riyo Mori
  • figure skater Brian Orser
  • Olympic boxer Shawn O’Sullivan
  • poet / naturalist Wallace Havelock Robb (1888 – 1976)
  • abolotionist and agent for the Underground Railroad, Alexander Milton Ross (1832 – 1897)
  • professional baseball player Johnny Rutherford (1925 – 2016)
  • journalist Martin Seemungal, Jack Devine (1919 – 1989)
  • painter Manly E. MacDonald (1889 – 1971)
  • cyclist Alex Stieda
  • Oscar-winning animated movie director John Weldon (Special Delivery / The Log Driver’s Waltz)
  • politcal advisor Jerry Yanover (1947 – 2009), described by Maclean’s: “Yanover is to Liberalism what Yoda is to the Jedi Council.”

All things considered the sheer volume of notable names from Belleville is remarkable for a city with a population of only 50,000.

City of Belleville

Above: Belleville

Of the above listed names, those of my generation best recognize Avril Lavigne and the Kinks.

Avril was born in Belleville, went to the same school as my niece in Napanee, and I suppose Canadian talent internationally recognized should be appreciated.

But too often those talented individuals that many Americans embrace often are those whom not all Canadians like.

For me, much beloved Justin Bieber and Céline Dionne fit this category, for I have no objection to their success, but success with a superior attitude is not welcome.

Avril Lavigne @ Grammy Museum 09 05 2019 (49311430057).jpg

Above: Avril Lavigne, 2019

I like Avril’s Complicated song (which I discovered through “Weird Al” Yankovic’s parody version), but the rest of her repetoire has not impressed me.

But exactly how much mascara does a blonde really need?

Complicated cover.png

As for the English rock band the Kinks, Peter Quaife – founder and original bass guitarist of the group – after departing the group in 1969 and residing in Denmark in the 1970s, relocated to Belleville in 1980 where he worked as a cartoonist and artist.

He was diagnosed with kidney failure in 1998 and moved back to Denmark in 2005.

Quaife died in Copenhagen in June 2010 of kidney failure.

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Above: Pete Quaife

After Complicated, I spend the rest of the journey to Toronto listening to the Kinks.

There is a double irony in seeing the video of “Sunny Afternoon” with its summer themes, performed in a winter setting as my train hurtles through a winter setting.

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Built from bluish-grey Trenton limestone in 1856 for Canadian National Railway predecessor the Grand Trunk Railway (GTR), Belleville Station was designated a National Historic Site of Canada and protected under the Heritage Railway Stations Protection Act since 1992.

It is the oldest of multiple buildings which were once part of Belleville’s GTR station yard, a facility which employed 100 by 1864 and included one of the first three GTR locomotive shops.

A new locomotive shop was built in 1867, increasing capacity to 24 engines.

Belleville VIA Station.jpg

Above: Belleville Station

GTR cutbacks in December 1876 led to a violent labour dispute on 29 December, which stopped all trains.

The Queen’s Own Rifles militia deployed from Toronto on 2 January 1877 to end the strike.

A new round house was built in 1912 to accommodate 42 engines, with a wheel shed and machine shop adjacent.

With over a thousand people at its peak, the railway became Belleville’s largest local employer.

Grand Trunk Railway System herald.jpg

The 220 Station Street waiting room, a mid-size “Second Class Wayside Station” at the 27 October 1856 inception of the Grand Trunk mainline, served until the adjacent modern station building opened on 20 March 2012.

While this building has always served only passengers, with telegraphy and freight located in other buildings, much of the original interior was lost due to 1987 and earlier renovations.

Railway stations in Belleville Ontario

Just east of the main station building, a freight shed stored VIA’s baggage carts.

Its basement was home to The Belleville Model Railroad Club.

Home

While three original stations from the 1850s Grand Trunk line remain in active use at Georgetown, Port Hope and Napanee, all are small single-storey “Type C” stations (typically five curved arches for windows and doors on the sides and two at each end).

Belleville is a larger station (“Type B“, six arches) and the last intact original station on the line to have been expanded with a second storey.

A similar Outer Station existed at Kingston, but was abandoned in the 1970s and is now in ruins.

Take the Rails - VIA into Bay of Quinte - Bay of Quinte Living

CN’s historic Grand Trunk station was once one of two active passenger terminals in the city.

The Canadian Pacific Railway used a former 1911 Canadian Northern Railway station on Church Street to handle Ottawa – Toronto traffic until 1966.

That building was demolished in 1976.

Canadian Pacific Railway logo 2014.svg

On 10 November 2010, VIA Rail unveiled a design for a modern $18 million station building which would be wheelchair accessible with space to accommodate expanded track lines.

Built at 250 Station Street, adjacent to the historic station, the new facility accepted its first passengers on 20 March 2012. 

MP Daryl Kramp officially opened the station on 12 September 2012.

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Above: Daryl Kramp

The original station is marked with a Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada plaque.

Old Canadian Train Stations, Quebec and Ontario

As of 2012, the city and local groups are looking for new uses for the old station.

VIA Rail Belleville Station - JJ McGuire General Contractors - Serving  Oshawa , Durham Region & Beyond

At Belleville Station, the only remarkable thing I see is a U-Haul truck spray painted graffiti the words “Total Loss“.

The why behind this graffiti is not at all apparent.

Train stations map & real estate | VIA Rail

The train continues on to Cobourg.

VIA Rail Adds Service on Toronto-Ottawa Corridor | TravelPulse Canada

Cobourg (“Ontario’s Feel Good town“) is a town of 19,000 people (2016) on the north shore of Lake Ontario in Northumberland County, approximately midway between downtown Toronto and Kingston.

Palatial summer homes built in the 1800s adorn the town, long a popular resort.

Above: Aerial view of Cobourg

A house of special interest is the birthplace of silent screen star Marie Dressler at 212 King Street West.

Restored in the style of the 1830s, after a fire on 15 January 1989 ravaged the converted tavern and restaurant, it is now a one-room museum dedicated to her memory.

Marie Dressler House is here

Above: Marie Dressler House, Cobourg

A plaque in Ms. Dressler’s honour is outside the House.

Marie Dressler - Cobourg, Ontario, Canada - Childhood Homes on  Waymarking.com

Marie Dressler (née Leila Marie Koerber) (1868 – 1934) was a Canadian stage and screen actress, comedian, and early silent film and Depression-era film star.

She was born on November 9, 1868, in Cobourg.

She was one of the two daughters of Anna (née Henderson), a musician, and Alexander Rudolph Koerber (1826 – 1914), a German-born former officer in the Crimean War.

Leila’s elder sister, Bonita Louise Koerber (1864 – 1939) later married playwright Richard Ganthony (1856 – 1924)

Her father was a music teacher in Cobourg and the organist at St. Peter’s Anglican Church, where as a child Marie would sing and assist in operating the organ.

According to Dressler, the family regularly moved from community to community during her childhood.

It has been suggested by Cobourg historian Andrew Hewson that Dressler attended a private school, but this is doubtful if Dressler’s recollections of the family’s genteel poverty are accurate.

The Koerber family eventually moved to the US, where Alexander Koerber is known to have worked as a piano teacher in the late 1870s and early 1880s in Bay City and Saginaw (both in Michigan) as well as Findlay, Ohio.

Marie Dressler - 1930.jpg

Above: Marie Dressler

Her first known acting appearance, when she was five, was as Cupid in a church theatrical performance in Lindsay, Ontario. 

Residents of the towns where the Koerbers lived recalled Dressler acting in many amateur productions and Leila often irritated her parents with those performances.

Downtown Lindsay

Above: Downtown Lindsay

Dressler left home at the age of 14 to begin her acting career with the Nevada Stock Company, telling the company she was actually 18.

The pay was $6 per week and Dressler sent half to her mother.

At this time, Dressler adopted the name of an aunt as her stage name.

According to Dressler, her father objected to her using the name of Koerber.

The identity of the aunt was never confirmed, although Dressler denied that she adopted the name from a store awning.

Dressler’s sister Bonita, five years older, left home at about the same time.

Bonita also worked in the opera company.

The Nevada Stock Company was a travelling company that played mostly in the American Midwest.

Dressler described the troupe as a “wonderful school in many ways.

Often a bill was changed on an hour’s notice or less.

Every member of the cast had to be a quick study“.

Dressler made her professional debut as a chorus girl named Cigarette in the play Under Two Flags, a dramatization of life in the Foreign Legion.

She remained with the troupe for three years, while her sister left to marry playwright Richard Ganthony.

The company eventually ended up in a small Michigan town without money or a booking.

1885 Morgan Silver Dollar Coin Value Prices, Photos & Info

Dressler joined the Robert Grau Opera Company, which toured the Midwest, and she received an improvement in pay to $8 per week, although she claimed she never received any wages.

Dressler ended up in Philadelphia, where she joined the Starr Opera Company as a member of the chorus.

Historic Photo Gallery | 1885 -- Walnut Street Theatre -- Philadelphia, PA  -- Official Website

Above: Philadelphia, 1885

A highlight with the Starr company was portraying Katisha in The Mikado when the regular actress was unable to go on, due to a sprained ankle, according to Dressler.

She was also known to have played the role of Princess Flametta in an 1887 production in Ann Arbor, Michigan.

She left the Starr Company to return home to her parents in Saginaw.

Marie Dressler | Saginaw County Hall of Fame

Above: Marie Dressler

According to her, when the Bennett and Moulton Opera Company came to town, she was chosen from the church choir by the company’s manager and asked to join the company.

Dressler remained with the company for three years, again on the road, playing roles of light opera.

She later particularly recalled specially the role of Barbara in The Black Hussars, which she especially liked, in which she would hit a baseball into the stands.

Dressler remained with the company until 1891, gradually increasing in popularity.

She moved to Chicago and was cast in productions of Little Robinson Crusoe and The Tar and the Tartar.

After the touring production of The Tar and the Tartar came to a close, she moved to New York City.

Pin on Project: StatueOfLiberty

Above: New York City, 1891

In 1892, Dressler made her debut on Broadway at the Fifth Avenue Theatre in Waldemar, the Robber of the Rhine, which only lasted five weeks.

She had hoped to become an operatic diva or tragedienne, but the writer of Waldemar, Maurice Barrymore (1849 – 1905), convinced her to accept that her best success was in comedy roles.

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Above: Maurice Barrymore

Years later, she appeared in motion pictures with his sons, Lionel (1878 – 1954) and John (1882 – 1942) and became good friends with his daughter, actress Ethel Barrymore (1879 – 1959).

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Above: Lionel Barrymore

Head and shoulder shot of Barrymore, cleanshaven, in profile, facing to the left

Above: John Barrymore

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Above: Ethel Barrymore

In 1893, she was cast as the Duchess in Princess Nicotine, where she met and befriended Lillian Russell (1861 – 1922).

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Above: Lillian Russell

Dressler now made $50 per week, with which she supported her parents.

She moved on into roles in 1492 Up to Date, Girofle – Girolfa and A Stag Party (or A Hero in Spite of Himself). 

1492: Up to Date or Very Near It by Leonard Schneider

brightly coloured illustration of an archway of a Moorish with an external staircase and Moorish landscape beyond; a woman stands on the stairs, as an armed man waits at the foot of them, both dressed in exotic robes

After A Stag Party flopped, she joined the touring Camille D’Arville Company on a tour of the Midwest in Madeleine (or The Magic Kiss), as Mary Doodle, a role giving her a chance to clown.

Above: Camille D’Arville (1863 – 1932)

In 1896, Dressler landed her first starring role as Flo in George Lederer’s production of The Lady Slavey at the Casino Theatre on Broadway, co-starring British dancer Dan Daly.

It was a great success, playing for two years at the Casino.

Dressler became known for her hilarious facial expressions, seriocomic reactions, and double takes.

With her large, strong body, she could improvise routines in which she would carry Daly, to the delight of the audience.

Dressler’s success enabled her to purchase a home for her parents on Long Island.

The Lady Slavey success turned sour when she quit the production while it toured in Colorado.

The Erlanger syndicate blocked her from appearing on Broadway, and she chose to work with the Rich and Harris touring company.

Dressler returned to Broadway in Hotel Topsy Turvy and The Man in the Moon.

She formed her own theatre troupe in 1900, which performed fellow Canadian Cape Bretoner George V. Hobart’s Miss Prinnt in cities of the northeastern US.

The production was a failure, and Dressler was forced to declare bankruptcy.

Portrait of George V. Hobart from the 1915 playbill for Experience: A Morality Play of Today

Above: George Vere Hobart (1867 – 1926)

In 1902, she had met fellow Canadian (Melbourne, Québec) Mack Sennett (1880 – 1960) and helped him get a job in the theater.

Black and white portrait photograph of Mack Sennett in 1916. He is dressed in a jacket, shirt and tie and is looking into the camera.

Above: Mack Sennett

In 1904, she signed a three-year, $50,000 contract with the Weber and Fields Music Hall management, performing lead roles in Higgeldy Piggeldy and Twiddle Twaddle.

After her contract expired she performed vaudeville in New York, Boston, and other cities.

Dressler was known for her full-figured body and buxom contemporaries, which included her friends Lillian Russell, Fay Templeton (1865 – 1939), May Irwin (1862 – 1938) and Trixie Friganza (1870 – 1955).

Dressler herself was 5 feet 7 inches (1.70 m) tall and weighed 200 pounds (91 kg).

Fay Templeton.jpg

Above: Fay Templeton (b. Little Rock, Arkansas)

Irwin in an ornate white dress, leaning against a chair

Above: May Irwin (b. Whitby, Ontario)

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Above: Trixie Friganza (née Delia O’Callaghan, Granola, Kansas)

In 1907, she met James Henry “Jim” Dalton.

The two moved to London, where Dressler performed at the Palace Theatre of Varieties for $1,500 per week.

Palace Theatre - London.jpg

After that, she planned to mount a show herself in the West End.

Old and New | Terraces, Tenements and Tower Blocks | London photos, Bethnal  green, London england

Above: London (England), 1907

Above: Marie Dressler, 1908

In 1909, with members of the Weber organization, she staged a modified production of Higgeldy Piggeldy at the Aldwych Theatre, renaming the production Philopoena after her own role.

It was a failure, closing after one week.

She lost $40,000 on the production, a debt she eventually repaid in 1930.

Aldwych Theatre 2.jpg

She and Dalton returned to New York.

Dressler declared bankruptcy for a second time.

The New York Skyline Over the Years | 6sqft

She returned to the Broadway stage in a show called The Boy and the Girl, but it lasted only a few weeks.

She moved on to perform vaudeville at Young’s Pier in Atlantic City for the summer.

Young's Million Dollar Pier

In addition to her stage work, Dressler recorded for Edison Records in 1909 and 1910.

EdisonRecords1903Ad.jpg

In the fall of 1909, she entered rehearsals for a new play, Tillie’s Nightmare.

The play toured in Albany, Chicago, Kansas City, and Philadelphia, and was a flop.

Dressler helped to revise the show, without the authors’ permission, and in order to keep the changes she had to threaten to quit before the play opened on Broadway.

Her revisions helped make it a big success there.

Biographer Betty Lee considers the play the high point of her stage career.

WallaceReid* on Twitter: "1910 Marie Dressler sheet music from her Broadway  show Tillie's Nightmare… "

Dressler continued to work in the theater during the 1910s and toured the United States during World War I, selling Liberty bonds and entertaining the American Expeditionary Forces.

American infantrymen in France named both a street and a cow after Dressler.

The cow was killed, leading to “Marie Dressler: Killed in Line of Duty” headlines, about which Dressler (paraphrasing Mark Twain) quipped:

I had a hard time convincing people that the report of my death had been greatly exaggerated.

Images from "Over There": Personal Photography of America's Expeditionary  Forces in WWI and Occupation: McGeorge, Stephen C.: 9780764356353:  Amazon.com: Books

After the war, Dressler returned to vaudeville in New York, and toured in Cleveland and Buffalo.

She owned the rights to the play Tillie’s Nightmare, the play upon which her 1914 movie Tillie’s Punctured Romance was based.

Her husband Jim Dalton and she made plans to self-finance a revival of the play.

Tillie's Punctured Romance (1914 film) - Wikipedia

From one of her successful Broadway roles, she played the titular role in the first full-length screen comedy, Tillie’s Punctured Romance (1914), opposite Charlie Chaplin and Mabel Normand.

Dressler had appeared in two shorts as herself, but her first role in a feature film came in 1914 at the age of 44.

The Drama of Tillie's Punctured Romance – Silent Room

After Sennett became the owner of his namesake motion picture studio, he convinced Dressler to star in his 1914 silent film Tillie’s Punctured Romance.

The film was to be the first full-length, six-reel motion picture comedy.

According to Sennett, a prospective budget of $200,000 meant that he needed “a star whose name and face meant something to every possible theatre-goer in the United States and the British Empire.”

The movie was based on Dressler’s hit Tillie’s Nightmare.

Charlie Chaplin Collectors' Guide: Tillie's Punctured Romance (1914) –  Brenton Film

Above: Scene from Tillie’s Punctured Romance (1914)

She claimed to have cast Charlie Chaplin in the movie as her leading man and was “proud to have had a part in giving him his first big chance.”

Instead of his recently invented Tramp character, Chaplin played a villainous rogue.

Silent film comedian Mabel Normand also starred in the movie. 

Tillie’s Punctured Romance was a hit with audiences and Dressler appeared in two Tillie sequels and other comedies until 1918, when she returned to vaudeville.

Above: Poster for The Scrublady (1917)

The play fizzled in the summer of 1920 and the production was disbanded.

In 1919, during the Actors’ Equity strike in New York City, the Chorus Equity Association was formed and voted Dressler its first president.

Above: Marie Dressler, Ethel Barrymore and others during the 1919 strike

Dressler accepted a role in Cinderella on Broadway in October 1920, but the play failed after only a few weeks.

She signed on for a role in The Passing Show of 1921, but left the cast after only a few weeks.

She returned to the vaudeville stage with the Schubert Organization, traveling through the Midwest.

Dalton travelled with her, although he was very ill from kidney failure.

He stayed in Chicago while she travelled on to St. Louis and Milwaukee.

He died while Marie was in St. Louis and Marie then left the tour.

His body was claimed by his ex-wife and he was buried in the Dalton plot.

Heart of Downtown St. Louis.\" Olive Street looking west from Eighth  Street."

Above: St. Louis, 1921

After failing to sell a film script, Dressler took an extended trip to Europe in the fall of 1922.

In 1922, after her husband’s death, Dressler and writers Helena Dayton and Louise Barrett tried to sell a script to the Hollywood studios, but were turned down.

The one studio to hold a meeting with the group rejected the script, saying all the audiences wanted is “young love.

The proposed co-star of Lionel Barrymore or George Arliss (1868 – 1946) were rejected as “old fossils“.

George Arliss cph.3b31151.jpg

Above: George Arliss

On her return she found it difficult to find work, considering America to be “youth-mad” and “flapper-crazy“.

Above: Flapper on ship, 1929

(Flappers were a generation of young Western women in the 1920s who wore short skirts (just at the knee was short for that time period), bobbed their hair, listened to jazz, and flaunted their disdain for what was then considered acceptable behavior.

Flappers were seen as brash for wearing excessive makeup, drinking alcohol, smoking cigarettes in public, driving automobiles, treating sex in a casual manner, and otherwise flouting social and sexual norms.

As automobiles became available, flappers gained freedom of movement and privacy.

Flappers are icons of the Roaring Twenties, the social, political turbulence and increased transatlantic cultural exchange that followed the end of World War I, as well as the export of American jazz culture to Europe.

There was a reaction to this counter culture from more conservative people who belonged to mostly older generations.

They claimed that the flappers’ dresses were ‘near nakedness‘, ‘flippant‘, ‘reckless‘, and unintelligent.)

Dressler busied herself with visits to veteran hospitals.

To save money she moved into the Ritz Hotel, arranging for a small room at a discount.

Ritz-Carlton hotel | Restaurant-ing through history

In 1923, Dressler received a small part in a revue at the Winter Garden Theatre, titled The Dancing Girl, but was not offered any work after the show closed.

 In 1925, Dressler filmed a pair of two-reel short movies in Europe for producer Harry Reichenbach.

The movies, titled the Travelaffs, were not released and were considered a failure by both Dressler and Reichenbach.

Dressler announced her retirement from show business.

In 1925, she was able to perform as part of the cast of a vaudeville show which went on a five-week tour, but still could not find any work back in New York City.

The following year, she made a final appearance on Broadway as part of an Old Timers’ bill at the Palace Theatre.

Palace theatre NYC.JPG

In early 1927, Dressler received a lifeline from director Allan Dwan (1885 – 1981).

Although versions differ as to how Dressler and Dwan met, including that Dressler was contemplating suicide, Dwan offered her a part in a film he was planning to make in Florida.

Allan Dwan - Sep 1920 EH.jpg

Above: Allan Dwan

The film, The Joy Girl, an early color production, only provided a small part as her scenes were finished in two days, but Dressler returned to New York upbeat after her experience with the production.

Joy Girl poster.jpg

Later that year, Frances Marion (1888 – 1973), a screenwriter for the Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer (MGM) studio, came to Dressler’s rescue.

Marion had seen Dressler in the 1925 vaudeville tour and witnessed Dressler at her professional low-point.

Dressler had shown great kindness to Marion during the filming of Tillie Wakes Up in 1917, and in return, Marion used her influence with MGM’s production chief Irving Thalberg to return Dressler to the screen.

Frances-Marion.jpg

Tillie Wakes Up.png

In 1927, she returned to films at the age of 59 and experienced a remarkable string of successes.

Her first MGM feature was The Callahans and the Murphys (1927), a rowdy silent comedy co-starring Dressler (as Ma Callahan) with another former Mack Sennett comedian, Polly Moran, written by Marion.

The film was initially a success, but the portrayal of Irish characters caused a protest in the Irish World newspaper, protests by the American Irish Vigilance Committee, and pickets outside the film’s New York theatre.

The film was first cut by MGM in an attempt to appease the Irish community, then eventually pulled from release after Cardinal Dougherty of the Archdiocese of Philadelphia called MGM President Nicholas Schenck.

It was never shown again, and the negative and prints were destroyed.

While the film brought Dressler to Hollywood, it did not re-establish her career.

The Callahans and the Murphys (1927) — The Movie Database (TMDb)

Her next appearance was a minor part in the First National film Breakfast at Sunrise.

Breakfast at Sunrise.jpg

She appeared again with Moran in Bringing Up Father, another film written by Marion.

Bringing Up Father (1928 film) - Wikipedia

Dressler returned to MGM in 1928’s The Patsy as the mother of the characters played by stars Marion Davies and Jane Winton.

The-patsy-1928-lobbycard.jpg

Early in 1930, Dressler joined Edward Everett Horton’s theater troupe in Los Angeles to play a princess in Ferenc Molnár’s The Swan, but after one week, she quit the troupe.

Edward Everett Horton.jpg

Above: Edward Everett Horton (1886 – 1970)

Portrait by Carl Van Vechten, 1941

Above: Ferenc Molnár (1878 – 1952)

Later that year she played the princess-mother of Lillian Gish’s character in the 1930 film adaptation of Molnar’s play, titled One Romantic Night.

One Romantic Night Poster (1930).jpg

Hollywood was converting from silent films, but “talkies” presented no problems for Dressler, whose rumbling voice could handle both sympathetic scenes and snappy comebacks (the wisecracking stage actress in Chasing Rainbows and the dubious matron in Rudy Vallée’s Vagabond Lover).

Chasing Rainbows1930.jpg

The Vagabond Lover.jpg

Frances Marion persuaded Thalberg to give Dressler the role of Marthy in the 1930 film Anna Christie.

Garbo and the critics were impressed by Dressler’s acting ability, and so was MGM, which quickly signed her to a $500-per-week contract.

Anna Christie 1930 film.jpg

Dressler went on to act in comedic films which were popular with movie-goers and a lucrative investment for MGM.

She became Hollywood’s number-one box-office attraction, and stayed on top until her death in 1934.

The-Girl-Said-No -1930.jpg

Above: Poster for The Girl Said No (1930)

Dressler also took on serious roles.

For Min and Bill, with Wallace Beery, she won the 1930 –1931 Academy Award for Best Actress (the eligibility years were staggered at that time).

Min and bill 1930 poster.jpg

She was nominated again for Best Actress for her 1932 starring role in Emma, but lost to Helen Hayes (1900 – 1993) for her role in The Sin of Madelon Claudet.

Emma-1932.jpg

Promotional photograph of Helen Hayes.jpg

Above: Helen Hayes (née Helen Brown)

Dressler followed these successes with more hits in 1933, including the comedy Dinner at Eight, in which she played an aging but vivacious former stage actress.

Dressler had a memorable bit with Jean Harlow in the film:

Harlow: I was reading a book the other day.
Dressler: Reading a book?
Harlow: Yes, it’s all about civilization or something. A nutty kind of a book. Do you know that the guy said that machinery is going to take the place of every profession?

Dressler: Oh my dear, that’s something you need never worry about.

Dinner at Eight cph.3b52734.jpg

Following the release of Tugboat Annie (1933), Dressler appeared on the cover of Time, in its issue dated 7 August 1933.

MGM held a huge birthday party for Dressler in 1933, broadcast live via radio.

Her newly regenerated career came to an abrupt end when she was diagnosed with terminal cancer in 1934.

MGM head Louis B. Mayer (1884 – 1957) learned of Dressler’s illness from her doctor and reportedly asked that she not be told.

To keep her home, he ordered her not to travel on her vacation because he wanted to put her in a new film.

Dressler was furious but complied.

Louis B Mayer - Jun 1919 EH (cropped).jpg

Above: Louis Burt Mayer

She appeared in more than 40 films, and achieved her greatest successes in talking pictures made during the last years of her life.

The first of her two autobiographies, The Life Story of an Ugly Duckling, was published in 1924.

The Life Story of an Ugly Duckling: An Autobiographical Fragment in Seven  Parts; Illustrated With Many Pleasing Scenes From Former Triumphs and From  Private Life (Classic Reprint): Dressler, Marie: 9780243313457: Amazon.com:  Books

A second book, My Own Story, “as told to Mildred Harrington“, appeared a few months after her death.

My Own Story by Marie Dressler

On Saturday, 28 July 1934, Dressler died of cancer, aged 65, in Santa Barbara, California.

File:Marie Dressler Grave.JPG - Wikimedia Commons

Pin on Famous People

Dressler’s birth home in Cobourg is known as Marie Dressler House and is open to the public.

The home was converted to a restaurant in 1937 and operated as a restaurant until 1989, when it was damaged by fire.

It was restored, but did not open again as a restaurant.

It was the office of the Cobourg Chamber of Commerce until its conversion to its current use as a museum about Dressler and as a visitor information office for Cobourg.

Canada's Women in Film Museum - Mary Pickford Foundation

Each year, the Marie Dressler Foundation Vintage Film Festival is held, with screenings in Cobourg and in nearby Port Hope.

A play about the life of Marie Dressler called “Queen Marie” was written by Shirley Barrie and produced at 4th Line Theatre in 2012 and Alumnae Theatre in 2018.

MARIE DRESSLER QUEEN OF THE MOVIE QUEENS | Maclean's | MARCH 15 1952

For her contribution to the motion picture industry, Dressler has a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame at 1731 Vine Street, added in 1960.

After Min and Bill, Dressler and Beery added their footprints to the cement forecourt of Grauman’s Chinese Theatre in Hollywood, with the inscription “America’s New Sweethearts, Min and Bill.”

Marie Dressler - Hollywood Star Walk - Los Angeles Times

Canada Post, as part of its “Canada in Hollywood” series, issued a postage stamp on 30 June 2008, to honour Marie Dressler.

Marie Dressler - Canada Postage Stamp | Canadians in Hollywood

Canadians in Hollywood: The sequel | Canada Post

Dressler is beloved in Seattle.

She played in two films based on historical Seattle characters. 

Tugboat Annie (1933) was loosely based on Thea Foss, of Seattle.

Poster - Tugboat Annie 01.jpg

Likewise Hattie Burns, in Politics (1931), was based on Bertha Knight Landes, the first woman to become mayor of Seattle.

Politics (1931 film) poster.jpg

Dressler’s 152nd birthday was commemorated in a Google Doodle on 9 November 2020.

152. Geburtstag von Marie Dressler

She is credited for saying:

You’re only as good as your last picture.

Marie Dressler, the First Female Star to Conquer Hollywood's Ageism (Make  Me Over, Episode 3) — You Must Remember This

Above: Marie Dressler

United Empire Loyalists fleeing persecution in the United States settled here in 1798.

The town began as a group of smaller villages such as Amherst and Hardscrabble, which were later named Hamilton.

It was renamed Cobourg in 1818, in recognition of the marriage of Princess Charlotte Augusta of Wales to Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld, who would later become King of Belgium.

NICAISE Leopold ANV.jpg

Above: Leopold I of Belgium (1790 – 1865)

By the 1830s Cobourg had become a regional centre because of its harbour on Lake Ontario.

The timber and other resources of Cobourg’s large hinterland were identified as the key to its prosperity.

Peterborough to the north had become the principal source area, and in the 1830s it was still the waterways that were the prime method of bulk transport.

Rice Lake and the Otonabee River were brought into use when a steamer ran across the lake and up the Otonabee to Peterborough.

But goods and passengers had to cover the last 13 km (8 mi) of valuable timber and mine products.

Cobourg Ontario Canada King Street Looking East Antique Postcard J80092 |  eBay

Of the many writers associated with Cobourg, the first to arrive was Susanna Moodie.

According to her account in Roughing It in the Bush (1852), she and her husbamd disembarked from the Prescott IV about midnight on 9 September 1832 and stayed at the Steamboat Hotel (no longer standing) until 22 September.

The Moodies then left Cobourg to take possession of a farm northeast of Cobourg.

Cobourg now and then

The artist Paul Kane (1810 – 1871) was born in Ireland and immigrated to Canada with his family in about 1819.

Kane Selfportrait.jpg

Above: Self-portrait, Paul Kane (1845)

He began his career by painting portraits in Cobourg (1834 – 1836), before living and studying in the United States and Europe until 1843.

While in Cobourg he lived in a stuccoed frame house that still stands at 134 King Street West.

It now houses a pizzeria.

Paul Kane's Cobourg 1833-1834

Above: Paul Kane House, Cobourg

By 1835, a plank road was built to Harwood using 300,000 feet of 3-inch wooden planks, allowing horse-drawn vehicles to haul heavy goods.

Plank road - Wikiwand

Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870) visited Cobourg early in May 1842 and mentioned it in his American Notes (1843) as “a cheerful, thriving little town.”

Dickens thought Kingston 'a very poor town' | The Kingston Whig Standard

Above: Charles Dickens, 1842

American Notes For General Circulation by Charles Dickens

By 1850 the plank road was breaking up and was impassible in wet conditions.

By 1852 there was considerable enthusiasm for replacing the plank road with a railway, so plans were made for a 4-km (2.5 mi) long bridge across Rice Lake, to take the railway to Peterborough.

By 1854 the rails reached the shore of the lake, and it transported passengers and nearly two million feet of lumber from the Rice Lake down to Cobourg that summer.

Rice Lake's Sunken Railway | Hiking the GTA

However, all the revenue had to ploughed into building an ill-fated bridge, using hundreds of wooden trestles, 31 spans and a centre-pivot swing bridge to allow boats to pass.

Costs escalated, bondholders lost their money, and the town council with a debt that was only repaid in the 1930s.

The bridge was constructed over the summer of 1854 and was opened on 29 December that year.

Three days later it collapsed when ice movements shifted the trestles out of line, splintering the Burr Truss sections.

The bridge was stabilized on the southern side, but not on the northern side, and winter ice and shifting lake mud meant that it was frequently unusable.

Rice Lake's Sunken Railway | Hiking the GTA

In 1865 the railway was bought by a consortium of Pittsburgh steel manufacturers, who set up an iron-ore supply route in barges up the Trent River and across Rice Lake to the railway at Harwood.

From there it was brought along the railway to Cobourg Harbour, for shipment across Lake Ontario to the steel mills of America.

This provided a steady income for the railway and the town until the ore ran out in 1878.

Port Hope History - Cobourg and Peterborough Railway

Virna (Virginia) Sheard (née Stanton) was born in Cobourg in 1862, although her family soon moved to Toronto, where she was raised.

VirnaSheard1902.tif

Her brother Eldridge Stanton Jr. and his wife both died at Niagara Falls, in the Ice Bridge Disaster of 1912.

In 1912, Niagara Falls ice bridge cracks, and three are swept to their  deaths | History | buffalonews.com

Death On An Ice Bridge - A Story of Love & Valour

Her writings include children’s books, historical and sentimental novels, and poetry.

Sheard began publishing her poems and stories in magazines around 1898.

She wrote her first books, Trevelyan’s Little Daughters (1898) and A Maid of Many Moods (1902) to entertain her sons.

A MAID OF MANY MOODS Hardback Book By VIRNA SHEARD 1902 First Edition | eBay

Her adult fiction was written mainly in the romance genre and included, By the Queen’s Grace (1904; a romance set in Elizabethan London), The Man at Lone Lake (1912), The Golden Apple Tree (1920), Below the Salt (1936) and Leaves in the Wind (1938). 

Below the Salt is a melodramatic story of Marcus O’Sullivan, a wealthy Ontario farmer.

Virna Sheard | Penny's poetry pages Wiki | Fandom

Above: Virna Sheard

She wrote five volumes of poetry, mainly with religious themes.

Some of these included The Miracle and Other Poems (1913), Carry On! (1917), The Ballad of the Quest (1922), Candle Flame (1926) and Fairy Doors (1932).

She collected what she thought were her best in Leaves in the Wind (1938).

Leaves in the Wind(Illustrated) by Virna Sheard, Paperback | Barnes & Noble®

Her poem “The Young Knights“, which opens with the lines “Now they remain to us forever young / Who with such splendour gave their youth away“, is often cited among Canadian women’s literary responses to World War I.

Of her novel By the Queen’s Grace, one reviewer wrote:

It is highly romantic (which is important) and highly improbable (which is of no consequence) and readers of 17 or 70 will find it equally to their taste.

By the Queen's Grace by Virna Sheard

She died in 1943.

Virna Stanton Sheard (1862-1943) - Find A Grave Memorial

Above: Ms. Sheard’s final resting place, Toronto

St. Peter’s Church, at 11 King Street East, is associated with Archibald Lampman (1861 – 1899), the foremost poet of the Confederation group.

Archibald Lampman (Topley Studio/Library and Archives Canada/PA-027190)

Above: Archibald Lampman

Lampman’s father, who had been serving at Gore’s Landing, came to St. Peter’s as curate in 1874.

St. Peter's Anglican Church: Cobourg Images

Above: St. Peter’s Anglican Church, Cobourg

Until 1882 the family home was a three-storey brick house at 37 King Street East, in part of which the elder Lampman opened a school.

Archibald Lampman attended Cobourg Collegiate Institute until the age of 16.

The school building, now converted to private apartments, stands at 117 King Street East, directly across the street from St. Peter’s Church and rectory.

Urbsite: FAME REMEMBER US WITH NO FAMILIAR NAME: ARCHIBALD LAMPMAN R.I.P

Above: Former resident of Archibald Lampman

The connections and trade links which developed through iron shipments brought many American industrialists to Cobourg, which became a popular summer destination.

High class hotels were established, followed in the late 19th century and early 20th century by enormous summer homes for wealthy Americans, a few of which still stand.

Ontario Training School for Boys: Cobourg Images

Above: Brookside Youth Detention Centre, formerly a hotel

From 1905 until 1907, Union Army General Orlando Bolivar Willcox lived and died in Cobourg.

Orlando B. Willcox - Brady-Handy.jpg

Above: Orlando Willcox

Willcox was born in Detroit.

He entered the United States Military Academy in West Point, New York, in 1843.

Following graduation in 1847, he was commissioned Second Lieutenant in the 4th US Artillery.

He would subsequently serve in the United States Army in various capacities over a period of 40 years.

U.S. Military Academy Coat of Arms.svg

Willcox served in the Mexican – American War (1846 – 1848), fought against the Indians on the frontier, and again in the Third Seminole War (1855 – 1856).

Following the latter conflict, he resigned from the Army in 1857.

MXAMWAR.png

Above: Scenes from the Mexican – American War

Seminole War in Everglades.jpg

Above: Scene from the Seminole War

When the Civil War (1861 – 1865) began, Willcox was practicing law in Detroit.

He was appointed colonel of the 1st Michigan Volunteer Infantry.

He was wounded and captured in the First Battle of Bull Run (First Manassas) (21 July 1861) while in command of a brigade in Major General Samuel P. Heintzelman’s division.

He later received the Medal of Honor in 1895 for “most distinguished gallantry” during the battle.

First Battle of Bull Run Kurz & Allison.jpg

After his release and exchange more than a year later, on 19 August 1862, President Abraham Lincoln (1809 – 1865) appointed Willcox a brigadier general of volunteers, to rank from 1 July 1861.

The President had to submit the nomination three times, the last on March 7, 1863, before the US Senate finally confirmed the appointment on 11 March 1863.

An iconic photograph of a bearded Abraham Lincoln showing his head and shoulders.

Above: Abraham Lincoln

Willcox commanded the 1st Division of Major General Ambrose Burnside’s IX Corps in 1862.

He led the division at the Battle of Antietam (17 September 1862) and the corps at the Battle of Fredericksburg (11 – 15 December 1862).

Battle of Antietam.png

Above: Battle of Antietam

Battle of Fredericksburg, Dec 13, 1862.png

Above: Battle of Fredericksburg

During the 1863 draft riots (13 – 16 July 1863), Willcox commanded the District of Indiana and Michigan.

New York Draft Riots - fighting.jpg

Above: Scene from the New York City Draft Riots

He again led a division at Knoxville (29 November 1863) and during Lt. General Ulysses S. Grant ‘s Overland Campaign (4 May – 24 June 1864).

Kurz & Allison - Assault on Fort Sanders.jpg

Above: Battle of Fort Sanders, Knoxville

On 12 December 1864, President Abraham Lincoln nominated Willcox for appointment to the brevet grade of major general of volunteers to rank from 1 August 1864, and the US Senate confirmed the appointment on 14 April 1865.

Following the Siege of Petersburg (15 June 1864 – 2 April 1865), he led the first troops to enter Petersburg, Virginia, before ending the war serving in North Carolina.

He was mustered out of the volunteers on 15 January 1866.

Dictatorcrop.jpg

Above: Scene from the Siege of Petersburg

Willcox returned to Detroit to resume his career as a lawyer, but when the United States (Regular Army) was expanded in July 1866, he accepted appointment as colonel of the 29th US Infantry Regiment.

On 26 March 1867, President Andrew Johnson (1808 – 1875) nominated Willcox for appointment to the brevet grade of brigadier general, USA (regular army), to rank from 2 March 1867, and the US Senate confirmed the appointment on 5 April 1867.

Also, on the same dates of nomination, rank and confirmation, President Johnson nominated and the US Senate confirmed the appointment of Willcox to the brevet grade of major general, USA (regular army).

Monochrome photograph of the upper body of Andrew Johnson

Above: Andrew Johnson

Willcox transferred to the 12th US Infantry Regiment in 1869 and served in San Francisco, except for brief periods, until 1878 when he became Commander of the Department of Arizona.

In this capacity, he put down the raids of Apache Indians.

For his service in the West, he was awarded a Vote of Thanks by the Arizona Legislature.

Willcox was appointed a brigadier general, USA (regular army), 13 October 1886.

From 1886 to 1887, he was head of the Department of the Missouri.

Mark of the United States Army.svg

He retired 16 April 1887 as a brigadier general.

After his retirement, Willcox was governor of the Soldiers’ Home in Washington, DC from 27 February 1889 to 8 July 1892.

Willcox moved to Canada in 1905.

He died in Cobourg, at 84 years of age, but was buried in Arlington National Cemetery in Virginia.

Arlington National Cemetery Seal.png

The question is, of course, why would Willcox move to Canada?

Canada - history of the flag (1892-1907)

Above: Flag of Canada (1892 – 1907)

A major ferry service connected Cobourg and Rochester, New York from 1907 to 1952, transporting passengers and cargo across Lake Ontario.

RochesterSubway.com : All Aboard The Ontario Car Ferry!

Throughout the late 1980s and early 1990s, the town invested heavily in purchasing property along the waterfront and beautifying the area.

A boardwalk was developed to connect the harbour and large sandy beach while further pathways were created to encompass Victoria Park and the historic downtown.

Because of this renewal and revitalization, many community activities now revolve in and around these spaces.

Cobourg :: Victoria Park Entrance, :: Ontario Photos, Canada :: N13074

Cobourg retains the small-town atmosphere that Dressler once knew, in part due to the downtown and surrounding residential area’s status as a Heritage Conservation District.

The downtown is a well-preserved example of a traditional small-town main street.

Downtown Vitalization Plan - Town of Cobourg

Above: Downtown Cobourg

Victoria Hall, the town hall completed in 1860, is a National Historic Site of Canada.

Victoria Hall is a Palladian-style city hall with Old Bailey-style courtroom, concert hall and ballroom.

This National Historic Site, with its Grecian columns, stone-cut insignia and clock tower holds a vintage film festival in late October.

Guided tours year-round and the site is available as a wedding venue.

For a brief moment in 1856, the town, with its new railway link to the interior and an east-west rail connection along the Grand Trunk Railway, was feeling secure in its future prosperity, and thought a new town hall would encourage further investment and be an asset to the area.

The building serves as the town hall, home of the Art Gallery of Northumberland, the Cobourg Concert Hall, and has a courtroom that is now used as the Council Chambers.

Victoria Hall was officially opened in 1860 by the Prince of Wales, later to become King Edward VI.

Victoria Hall by Kivas Tully

Above: Victoria Hall, Cobourg

On 20 December 1951, Cobourg experienced media attention as a chartered Curtiss C-46 Commando airplane, bound for Newark, New Jersey, made an emergency landing in local farmer Charles Wilson’s field, alongside Highway 2 and Roger’s Road.

The pilot had lost his way after losing radio contact, and unwittingly drifted north.

The 44 passengers and three crew escaped unhurt, but were extremely cold in the sub-zero temperatures.

The plane, having crash landed on deep snow, was able to be repaired and the field smoothed out enough for it to get airborne again.

Plane Landing in Cobourg - 1951

The oldest building in the town is now open as the Sifton Cook Heritage Centre and operated by the Cobourg Museum Foundation.

This building was for many years known as The Barracks, suggesting military connections.

However it is equally likely that it was built for industrial uses, either in the very early 1800s or as a malting house and brewery by James Calcutt in the early 1830s.

It probably served that purpose until a larger brewery was built by the McKechnies in 1863.

The old stone-built building had a variety of industrial and storage purposes and has had 20 different owners.

In 2000 it was acquired in a run-down state by the Cobourg Museum Foundation, who have restored it and is now open as the Sifton Cook Heritage Centre.

Sifton-Cook Heritage Centre (Cobourg) - 2020 All You Need to Know BEFORE  You Go (with Photos) - Tripadvisor

Cobourg has several parks.

Le logo de Cobourg | Le port de Cobourg est notre communauté

A plaque in the Municipal Park honours William Weller, Ontario’s leading stagecoach proprietor from 1830 to 1855.

His Royal Mail Line ran from Hamilton to Montréal.

In February 1840, he drove from Toronto to Montréal in a speed record of 37 hours and 40 minutes.

WILLIAM WELLER 1788 - 1863" ~ Cobourg - Ontario Provincial Plaques on  Waymarking.com

A plaque honouring James Cockburn (1819 – 1883) in the Cobourg Conservation Area.

Read the Plaque - Honourable James Cockburn, 1819-1883

A representative of Upper Canada at the 1864 Québec Conference, James Cockburn was a Father of Confederation and the first Speaker of the Canadian House of Commons.

James Cockburn.jpg

Above: James Cockburn

The Cobourg Waterfront Festival, held in Victoria Park and the nearby beach and harbour, is an annual arts and crafts event occurring on Canada Day (1 July)(cancelled in 2020).

Cobourg Waterfront Festival

Cobourg’s oldest annual event, the Cobourg Highland Games, was started in 1963 in Donegan Park by Dave Carr to celebrate the Scottish culture in the area.

The event was moved to Victoria Park in 2013, where it continues each June, with midsummer dancing, piping, drumming, track and field events – and a “Will ye no come back again?“.

The pandemic cancelled the Games in 2020.

Cobourg Highland Games

Cobourg’s beach, Victoria Park Beach, is used as a location for volleyball tournaments, events, beach days, family picnics and other events.

The beach is equipped with a splash park, playground set, park area for eating, local restaurants and a pier.

There are lifeguards on duty some days and it is safe to swim and play in.

Victoria Park Campground - Town of Cobourg

Close to the downtown, tourists can shop in local shops and eat out at many of Cobourg’s restaurants.

Cobourg is home to the Port Hope Drive-In, Canada’s oldest drive-in.

Drive-in movie season returns to the Kawarthas | kawarthaNOW

Notable residents of Cobourg, besides the aforementioned James Cockburn and Marie Dressler, include:

Alan Bradley is a Canadian mystery writer known for his Flavia de Luce series, which began with the acclaimed The Sweetness at the Bottom of the Pie.

Bradley was born in 1938 in Toronto.

He was brought up with two older sisters in the small town of Cobourg.

His mother raised the children alone after Bradley’s father left the family when he was a toddler.

Bradley learned to read at an early age, partly because he was a sickly child who spent a lot of time in bed.

However, Bradley confesses to having been a “very bad student“, particularly in high school, spending his free time reading in the local cemetery because he felt he didn’t fit in.

Alan Bradley | Penguin Random House

Above: Alan Bradley

After completing his education, Bradley worked in Cobourg as a radio and television engineer, designing and building electronic systems.

He then worked briefly for Ryerson Polytechnical Institute in Toronto (now Ryerson University), before moving to Saskatoon to take a job at the University of Saskatchewan in 1969.

There he helped develop a broadcasting studio, where he worked as Director of Television Engineering for 25 years.

He took an early retirement from the university in 1994 to become a full-time writer.

Uofsask logo.svg

Following his early retirement from the University of Saskatchewan in 1994, Bradley and his wife Shirley moved to Kelowna, British Columbia, for her work, while Bradley focused on writing.

He wrote multiple screenplays over the course of nine years.

Then, during the 2003 Okanagan Mountain Park fire, many homes neighboring Bradley’s were destroyed, although his was spared.

The experience inspired him to do something different, and he began focusing on memoirs instead of screenplays.

UPDATED: Okanagan Mountain Park wildfire evacuation alert lifted – Kelowna  Capital News

Above: Scene from the 2003 Okanagan Mountain Park fire

He wrote a non-fiction book called Ms Holmes of Baker Street and a memoir called The Shoebox Bible.

Alan Bradley Interview on AbeBooks.co.uk

The Shoebox Bible: Bradley, Alan, Slavin, Bill: 9780771016639: Amazon.com:  Books

Bradley’s wife was listening to CBC Radio as Louise Penny, a Canadian mystery author, discussed the Debut Dagger fiction competition, run by the UK Crime Writers’ Association and sponsored by the Orion Publishing Group in Britain.

The competition requires that entrants submit the first chapter and a synopsis of a murder mystery.

Bradley’s wife encouraged him to write something new about the “girl on the camp stool“, a minor character who had emerged in the novel Bradley was working on.

CBC Radio Logo.svg

In early 2007, Bradley entered the Dagger contest by submitting 15 pages about the “girl on the camp stool” character, now named Flavia de Luce.

These pages, which took only a few days to write and several weeks of polishing, would become the basis of The Sweetness at the Bottom of the Pie.

Bradley set the book in England despite having never visited it.

The Sweetness at the Bottom of the Pie: Amazon.ca: Bradley, Alan: Books

In June 2007, two judges from the contest contacted Bradley’s agent in Canada to express interest in publishing the proposed book.

They also inadvertently informed him that Bradley was the winner of the competition.

A bidding war ensued, and on 27 June 2007, Bradley sold Orion the rights for three books in Britain.

Within several days, Doubleday had purchased the Canadian rights and Bantam Books the US rights.

Doubleday Publishing.png

At age 69, Bradley left North America for the first time when he went to London to pick up the Dagger award on 5 July 2007.

Upon his return to Canada after the award ceremony, Bradley took a few weeks off, and then spent seven months turning the submitted 15 pages into a full-length novel. 

CWA Debut Dagger Writing Competition 2021 Opens for Entries | Crime Time

The Sweetness at the Bottom of the Pie was published in the UK in January 2009 and in Canada in February 2009.

The book has since developed into a series of novels about young Flavia de Luce solving various crimes in a 1950s village.

The second installment (The Weed That Strings the Hangman’s Bag) was published in March 2010, the third (A Red Herring without Mustard) in February 2011, the fourth (I Am Half-Sick of Shadows) in December 2011, and the fifth (Speaking from Among the Bones) in January 2013.

The sixth book, The Dead in Their Vaulted Arches, was released in early 2014.

The series has been extended to ten books, up from an original order of six.

Bradley’s Thrice the Brinded Cat Hath Mew’d: A Flavia de Luce Novel was published in 2016 with positive reviews.

Since selling their home in Kelowna in 2009, Bradley and his wife Shirley have been travelling, hoping to spend time living in various places and visiting every country that is publishing his books.

The Flavia de Luce Mysteries Series Set Bundle (Books 1-7) - Alan Bradley  by Alan Bradley in 2020 | Books, Alan bradley, Book worth reading

Cobourg is home to Indie rock band cleopatrick.

Childhood friends Ian Fraser and Luke Gruntz grew up in Cobourg, Ontario had been friends since age 4 and began getting interested in music around age 8 when they first listened to AC/DC.

Later in their teens they began recording their own music.

The band’s first music festival was the 2018 installment of Lollapalooza in Chicago.

In late 2018 they were booked to play at the Shaky Knees Music Festival in 2019 in Atlanta.

The band has drawn comparisons in their sound and personal reflection of music to bands such as Arctic Monkeys.

You can get glimpses of Cobourg in their YouTube video “Hometown“.

I like their music (in small doses), despite Fraser and Gruntz’s youth.

The return of classic rock with a big sound: cleopatrick interviewed –  Messed!Up

Above: cleopatrick

Sir John Murray (1841 – 1914), born in Cobourg, was a pioneering British oceanographer, marine biologist and limnologist (the study of inland aquatic systems).

He is considered to be the father of modern oceanography.

Sir John Murray in his later years, bearded and drawing or measuring with a compass.

Above: John Murray

The John Murray Laboratories at the University of Edinburgh, the John Murray Society at the University of Newcastle and the Scottish Environmental Protection Agency research vessel, the S.V. Sir John Murray, and the Murray Glacier are named after him.

Murray Glacier - Wikiwand

Cirrothauma murrayi, an almost blind octopus that lives at depths from 1,500 m (4,900 ft) to 4,500 m (14,800 ft) and the Murrayonida order of sea sponges are named after Murray. 

CirrothaumaMurDraw2.jpg

Above: Cirrothauma murrayi

Silvascincus murrayi (Murray’s skink), a species of Australian lizard, is named in his honour.

Blue-speckled Forest-skink (Eulamprus murrayi) (10057300746).jpg

Above: Murray’s skink lizard

His parents had emigrated from Scotland to Ontario in about 1834.

He went to school in London, Ontario, and later to Cobourg College.

In 1858, at the age of 17 he returned to Scotland to live with his grandfather, John Macfarlane.

In 1864 he enrolled at the University of Edinburgh to study medicine.

However he did not complete his studies and did not graduate.

University of Edinburgh ceremonial roundel.svg

In 1868 he joined the whaling ship, Jan Mayen, as ship’s surgeon and visited Spitsbergen and Jan Mayen Island.

During the seven-month trip he collected marine specimens and recorded ocean currents, ice movements and the weather.

The Peterhead whaler Jan Mayen

Above: The Jan Mayen

On his return to Edinburgh he re-entered the University to complete his studies (1868 – 1872) in geology under Sir Archibald Geikie (1835 – 1924).

Portrait of Archibald Geikie.jpg

Above: Archibald Geikie

In 1872 Murray assisted in preparing scientific apparatus for the Challenger Expedition under the direction of the Expedition’s chief scientist, Charles Wyville Thomson.

When a position on the expedition became available Murray joined the crew as a naturalist.

During the four-year voyage he assisted in the research of the oceans including collecting marine samples, making and noting observations, and making improvements to marine instrumentation.

The Challenger expedition and the beginning of Oceanography. | Letters from  Gondwana.

Above: The HMS Challenger

After the Expedition, Murray was appointed Chief Assistant at the Challenger offices in Edinburgh where he managed and organised the collection.

After Thomson’s death in 1882, Murray became Director of the office and in 1896 published The Report on the Scientific Results of the Voyage of HMS Challenger, a work of more than 50 volumes of reports.

Murray renamed his house, on Boswall Road in northern Edinburgh, Challenger Lodge in recognition of the expedition.

The building now houses St Columba’s Hospice.

Challenger Children's Fund

Above: Challenger Lodge

In 1884, Murray set up the Marine Laboratory at Granton, Edinburgh, the first of its kind in the United Kingdom.

After completing the Challenger Expedition reports, Murray began work surveying the fresh water lochs of Scotland.

He was assisted by Frederick Pullar (1875 – 1901) and over a period of three years they surveyed 15 lochs together.

In 1901 Pullar drowned as a result of an ice skating accident which caused Murray to consider abandoning the survey work.

However Pullar’s father, Laurence Pullar, persuaded him to continue and gave £10,000 towards completion of the survey.

Bathymetrical Survey of the Fresh-Water Lochs of Scotland, 1897-1909 - Maps  - National Library of Scotland

Murray coordinated a team of nearly 50 people who took more than 60,000 individual depth soundings and recorded other physical characteristics of the 562 lochs.

The resulting six-volume Bathymetrical Survey of the Fresh-Water Lochs of Scotland was published in 1910.

Bathymetrical survey of the Scottish fresh-water lochs: Amazon.co.uk: Murray,  John, Pullar, Laurence, Chumley, James: 9781172765591: Books

The cartographer John George Bartholomew (1860 – 1920), who strove to advance geographical and scientific understanding through his cartographic work, drafted and published all the maps of the Survey.

 

JohnGBartholomew-wiki.jpg

Above: John George Batholomew

In 1909 Murray indicated to the International Council for the Exploration of the Sea that an oceanographic survey of the north Atlantic should be undertaken.

Contribution from the International Council for the Exploration of the Sea  (ICES) to the thirteenth round of Informal Consultati

After Murray agreed to pay all expenses, the Norwegian Government lent him the research ship Michael Sars and its scientific crew.

He was joined on board by the Norwegian marine biologist Johan Hjort (1869 – 1948) and the ship departed Plymouth in April 1910 for a four-month expedition to take physical and biological observations at all depths between Europe and North America.

One hundred years since the Michael Sars Expedition | Phylogenetic  Systematics and Evolution | University of Bergen

Above: Norwegian research ship the Michael Sars

Johan Hjort (1869–1948).jpg

Above: Johan Hjort

Murray and Hjort published their findings in The Depths of the Ocean in 1912 and it became a classic for marine naturalists and oceanographers.

He was the first to note the existence of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and of oceanic trenches.

He also noted the presence of deposits derived from the Sahara Desert in deep ocean sediments and published a vast number of papers on his findings.

The depths of the ocean : a general account of the modern science of  oceanography based largely on the scientific researches of the Norwegian  steamer Michael Sars in the North Atlantic :

Onwards to Oshawa….

The name Oshawa (population: 160,000) originates from the Ojibwa term Aazhaway, meaning “the crossing place“.

Official logo of Oshawa

While Oshawa is rapidly becoming merely the eastern edge of Toronto’s sprawling surrounding urban area, it was long best known for manufacturing motorcars.

Colonel Sam McLaughlin established the McLaughlin Motor Car Company Limited in 1907 as the successor to his father’s McLaughlin Carriage Company.

Mclaughlin buick logo.png

He became director and vice president of General Motors Corporation in 1916.

The Oshawa factory became General Motors Canada in 1918.

GM canada logo.svg

The last Oshawa-built Chevrolet Impala, Cadillac XTS, Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra vehicles hit the road in 2019, ending a 112-year history which inspired Oshawa’s former mottos “The City that Motovates Canada” and “The City in Motion“.

GM Canada Oshawa - Flickr - Stradablog.jpg

Above: GM Canada Oshawa, 2011

Today, Oshawa is an education and health sciences hub.

The city is home to three post-secondary institutions (Durham College, Trent University Durham and University of Ontario Institute of Technology) and to Lakeridge Health Oshawa, Lakeridge Health and Education Research Network (LHEARN Centre) and the Oshawa Clinic, the largest, multi-specialty medical group practice in Canada.

Coat of arms of Oshawa

Above: Coat of arms of the City of Oshawa

More than 5,000 people work and more than 2,400 university students study in the downtown core.

The downtown is a prominent centre for entertainment and sporting events (Regent Theatre and Tribute Communities Centre), food (50+ restaurants and cafes) and culture (The Robert McLaughlin Gallery and the Canadian Automotive Museum).

The Robert McLaughlin Gallery.jpg

Above: Robert McLaughlin Gallery

Canadian Automotive Museum.JPG

Oshawa has parks, walking trails, conservation areas, indoors and outdoor public swimming pools, community centres, and sports facilities.

Lakeview Park stretches along the coast of Lake Ontario, complete with a sandy beach, and is the location of the Oshawa Museum.

Welcome to Oshawa Museum, historical exhibitions in Oshawa, ON.

Also, the McLaughlin Bay Wildlife Reserve and Second Marsh Wildlife Area offer protected marshland areas with interpretive trails and viewing platforms.

Oshawa’s parks and trail system encompasses almost 410 hectares of parkland and more than 27 kilometres of paved trails.

Oshawa has more than 130 parks, more than 110 playgrounds, nine splash pads, eight ice pads and three skateboard parks.

Oshawa ON.JPG

Above: Downtown Oshawa

At Oshawa Station, a cargo wagon is spray painted “Baba Loves You“.

Good to know.

Above: Egyptian god Baba

(For more on Oshawa and especially the closure of General Motors therein, please see Where We Must Leave Our Canoes (18 November 2020) of this blog.)

Final stop before Toronto is Guildwood.

Location of Guildwood within Toronto

Guildwood is a residential neighbourhood in Scarborough, located along the Scarborough Bluffs.

Above: View of the Scarborough Bluffs from Guildwood

In early 18th century, Osterhout Log Cabin was built in Guildwood.

The log cabin is one of Toronto’s oldest buildings still standing.

Osterhout Log Cabin 2.jpg

Above: Osterhout Log Cabin

In 1914, the Guild Inn was opened.

Initially a private residence, it later became an art colony and a hotel.

From 1941 to 1947, the inn was leased by the Government of Canada as a base for the Women’s Royal Naval Service, HMCS Bytown II, and later a military hospital.

Guild Inn 1956.jpg

Above: The Guild Inn

After Metropolitan Toronto was formed in 1954, taxes on the Guild Inn property increased to the point that the owners Rosa and Spencer Clark decided to sell 450 acres (180 ha) of their property, which became the basis for the Guildwood Village subdivision.

The Clarks remained involved with the development of the subdivision, in its design and layout to preserve as many trees in the area as possible.

Many of the streets in Guildford were named by the Clarks.

Guildwood Village Flag 27″ x 54″ – Guildwood Village Community Association

Above: Guildwood Village flag

Development started in 1957 with the famous “Avenue of Homes” display of upscale homes.

The community introduced a number of new ideas in subdivision design, including winding roads and cul-de-sacs to reduce through traffic, and underground power and phone lines.

Rear-lot parks were modelled after English footpaths as walkways within the community.

The Clarks helped design the entrance gates to the subdivision.

Avenue of Homes – Guildwood Village Community Association

After most of Toronto’s Stanley Barracks (New Fort York) was demolished in 1953, its gates were salvaged and re-erected at the entrance to Guildwood Village.

These gates, now called the “Guildwood Gates” still provide a unique and grand entrance to the community at the corner of Kingston Road and Guildwood Parkway.

Above: The Guildwood Gates

Guild Park is famous for its historical architectural fragments from the façades of demolished buildings in downtown Toronto.

Just west of the Guild Inn is Sir Wilfred Laurier Collegiate Institute.

Guildwood is home to several municipal parks.

Many of these parks are situated near the Scarborough Bluffs and the Toronto waterfront.

Parks in Guildwood include Elizabeth Simcoe Park, Grey Abbey Park, Guild Park and Gardens, South Marine Park, and Sylvan Park.

Guild Park and Gardens is notable for its collection of relics, collected from the remains of demolished buildings primarily from downtown Toronto.

A Trip Guide to Guildwood Park Scarborough - Toronto Ontario Canada

The Guild Park and Gardens is home to many movies such as The Skulls, and the neighbourhood is used by TV shows such as Odyssey 5

Theskullsposter.jpg

Odyssey 5 intro.jpg

Drake’s video “Headlines” was partly filmed at Guild Park by the amphitheatre.

Drake at The Carter Effect 2017 (36818935200) (cropped).jpg

Above: Canadian rapper Drake (né Aubrey Drake Graham)

But on this day there are no cameras, no film crews, no live performances at the Guildwood Station, no reason to get off here.

Guildwood GO Station main tracks.JPG

Above: Guildwood Station

Finally, arrival at Toronto’s Union Station.

Union Station is a major railway station and intermodal transportation hub in Toronto.

It is located on Front Street West, on the south side of the block bounded by Bay Street and York Street in downtown Toronto.

The municipal government of Toronto owns the station building while the provincial transit agency Metrolinx owns the train shed and trackage.

Union Station has been a National Historic Site of Canada since 1975, and a Heritage Railway Station since 1989.

It is operated by the Toronto Terminals Railway, a joint venture of the Canadian National Railway and Canadian Pacific Railway that directs and controls train movement along the Union Station Rail Corridor, the largest and busiest rail corridor in Canada.

Union Station, Toronto (30427373561).jpg

Its central position in Canada’s busiest inter-city rail service area, “The Corridor“, as well as being the central hub of GO Transit’s commuter rail service, makes Union Station Canada’s busiest transportation facility and the second busiest railway station in North America, serving over 72 million passengers each year.

More than half of all Canadian inter-city passengers and 91% of Toronto commuter train passengers travel through Union Station.

VIA Rail and Amtrak provide inter-city train services while GO Transit operates regional rail services.

Amtrak logo.svg

GO Transit logo.svg

The station is also connected to the subway and streetcar system of the Toronto Transit Commission (TTC) at its adjacent namesake subway station.

TTC.svg

GO Transit’s Union Station Bus Terminal, located in CIBC Square, is connected to Union Station by a 40-metre (130 ft) enclosed walkway above Bay Street.

New Union Station GO bus terminal opens in Toronto | CBC News

The Union Pearson Express, which provides train service to Toronto Pearson International Airport, has a platform a short walk west of the main station building, accessible by the SkyWalk.

Union Pearson Express logo.svg

Toronto is Canada’s primary passenger train hub.

Consequently, Union Station is by far VIA Rail’s busiest and most-used station.

Each year, 2.4 million VIA Rail passengers pass through Union Station, representing more than half of all Via Rail passengers carried systemwide.

This heavy usage is partly due to Union Station’s position at the centre of Canada’s busiest inter-city rail service area, the “Corridor“, which stretches from Québec City in the east to Windsor in the west.

CorridorVia.svg

Westbound VIA Rail trains from Toronto connect directly to most major cities in Southwestern Ontario, including Kitchener, London, Sarnia and Windsor.

Additionally, westbound trains from Montréal pass through Toronto en route to Burlington.

Northbound and eastbound Via Rail trains from Toronto primarily serve the heavily travelled Ottawa -Montréal – Toronto triangle.

At Montréal, passengers can connect to trains heading to the Maritimes or north to the Laurentians.

Union Station is also the eastern terminus of The Canadian, Via Rail’s transcontinental service westbound to Vancouver via Winnipeg, Saskatoon and Edmonton.

In partnership with VIA Rail, Amtrak runs the Maple Leaf train from Toronto to New York City.

The train uses Amtrak rolling stock, but is operated by VIA crews north of Niagara Falls, Ontario.

Other major US destinations along the route include Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse and Albany.

Amtrak and Via Rail formerly operated the International Limited from Toronto to Chicago via the Sarnia – Port Huron border crossing, until it was cancelled in 2004.

Both VIA Rail and Amtrak maintain service along the route on their respective sides of the border, but the trains do not cross the border.

Yellow-nosed locomotive with silver coaches

Above: The International Limited, Kalamazoo, Michigan, 1996

I had been informed in Ottawa that Greyhound buses to western Canada no longer operated.

Greyhound UK logo.png

I thought of taking the train from Toronto so I could visit friends out west whom I had not seen in decades.

It isn’t until I hit Union Station and begin to enquire as to how I could travel to and from the West that I realize that I cannot visit all the places I want to before I have to fly back to Switzerland.

So a difficult situation needs to be resolved.

Above: Great Hall, Union Station

I either have to find a way to get out west and return by a different mode of transportation or I have to abandon my idea of going west of Ontario completely.

My good friends Sumit and Barsha and their son Namesh wait for me in Brampton.

No photo description available.

Above: Barsha, Namesh and Sumit

I take a bus from Union Station bound for Brampton.

Concerned passenger reported GO bus driver who failed drug and alcohol  test: Metrolinx | CP24.com

I wonder as I listen to the radio play an Eagles’ tune if there is prophecy in this tune….

Somebody’s gonna hurt someone before the night is through.
Somebody’s gonna come undone. There’s nothin’ we can do
Everybody wants to touch somebody, if it takes all night
Everybody wants to take a little chance, make it come out right

There’s gonna be a heartache tonight, a heartache tonight I know
There’s gonna be a heartache tonight, a heartache tonight I know
Lord, I know.

Some people like to stay out late
Some folks can’t hold out that long
But nobody wants to go home now; there’s too much goin’ on

This night is gonna last forever, last all, last all summer long
Some time before the sun comes up the radio is gonna play that song

There’s gonna be a heartache tonight, a heartache tonight I know
There’s gonna be a heartache tonight, a heartache tonight I know
Lord, I know.

There’s gonna be a heartache tonight
The moon’s shinin’ bright, so turn out the light, and we’ll get it right
There’s gonna be a heartache tonight, a heartache to night, I know

Somebody’s gonna hurt someone (somebody) before the night is through
Somebody’s gonna come undone; there’s nothin’ we can do (everybody)
Everybody wants to touch somebody, if it takes all night
Everybody wants to take a little chance, make it come out right

There’s gonna be a heartache tonight, a heartache tonight I know
There’s gonna be a heartache tonight, a heartache tonight I know
Let’s go.

We can beat around the bushes; we can get down to the bone
We can leave it in the parkin’ lot, but either way
There’s gonna be a heartache tonight, a heartache tonight I know

There’ll be a heartache tonight, a heartache tonight I know

HeartacheTonight45.jpg

I have the distinct feeling that I may not be able to stay with Sumit and his family as long as I had originally promised.

A simple overnight might convey the feeling that I am using his home simply as a one-night B & B stop.

Proceed with caution and sensitivity….

Image may contain: 2 people

To be continued….

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Reader’s Digest Explore Canada / Albert and Theresa Moritz, The Oxford Illustrated Literary Guide to Canada

Canada Slim and the Love of Landscape

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Monday 20 July 2020

Think of this blog as a prologue.

It is named “Building Everest“, for it is here where I practice building something impressive (hopefully), my writing career.

Everest kalapatthar.jpg

Above: Mount Everest

On Monday (13 July) I phoned an old friend in Gatineau, Québec, Canada and we got to talking about our literary passions and ambitions.

Both of us in our 50s we have come to the realization that there are probably more years behind us than ahead of us, and there is no guarantee that the years that remain will necessarily be healthy years.

Happily, our creative projects do not conflict.

Gatineau downtown area

Above: Gatineau, Québec, Canada

He would like to write science fiction and fantasy similar to C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien.

Monochrome head-and-left-shoulder photo portrait of 50-year-old Lewis

Above: C(live) S(taples) Lewis (1898 – 1963)

Tolkien as a second lieutenant in the Lancashire Fusiliers (in 1916, aged 24)

Above: J(ohn) R(onald) R(euel) Tolkien (1892 – 1973)

I want to write novels and travel books similar to Charles Dickens and Paul Theroux.

Charles Dickens

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

Theroux in 2008

Above: Paul Theroux (b. 1941)

I miss my friend and Ottawa where our sporadic reunions usually take place and I wish we lived closer to one another and we could be like his literary heroes.

Centre Block on Parliament Hill, the Government House, Downtown Ottawa, the Château Laurier, the National Gallery of Canada and the Rideau Canal

Above: Images of Ottawa, Ontario, Canada (across the river from Gatineau)

Lewis, Tolkien and their friends were a regular feature of the Oxford scenery in the years during and after the Second World War.

From top left to bottom right: Oxford skyline panorama from St Mary's Church; Radcliffe Camera; High Street from above looking east; University College, main quadrangle; High Street by night; Natural History Museum and Pitt Rivers Museum

Above: Images of Oxford, England

They drank beer on Tuesday at “the Bird and Baby” (The Eagle and Child Pub) and on Thursday nights they met in Lewis’s Magdalen College rooms to read aloud from the books they were writing, jokingly calling themselves “the Inklings“.

The Eagle and Child.jpg

Above: The Eagle and Child, Oxford

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Above: Magdalen (pronounced Maud-lin) College, Oxford

Above: The corner of the Eagle and Child where the Inklings regularly met

Lewis and Tolkien first introduced the former’s The Screwtape Letters and the latter’s The Lord of the Rings to an audience in this company.

Thescrewtapeletters.jpg

First Single Volume Edition of The Lord of the Rings.gif

As a English Canadian living in Deutschschweiz, I long for some sort of local creative writing club where I could share my writing worries and hopes in a way much like Lewis, in a letter to his friend A(lfred) K(enneth) Hamilton Jenkin (1900 – 1980), described the idyllic setting of his college rooms:

Above: Linguistic map (German, French, Italian, Rumansh) of Switzerland

The Story of Cornwall: A.K. Hamilton Jenkin: Amazon.com: Books

I wish there was anyone here childish enough (or permanent enough, not the slave of his particular and outward age) to share it with me.

Is it that no man makes real friends after he has passed the undergraduate age?

Because I have got no forr’arder, since the old days.

I go to Barfield (Owen Barfield) for sheer wisdom and a sort of richness of spirit.

Owen Barfield – AnthroWiki

Above: Arthur Owen Barfield (1898 – 1997)

I go to you for some smaller and yet more intimate connexion with the feel of things.

But the question I am asking is why I meet no such men now.

Is it that I am blind?

Some of the older men are delightful:

The younger fellows are none of them men of understanding.

Oh, for the people who speak one’s own language!

I guess this blog must serve this capacity.

So many ideas float through my mind and are captured in my chapbook.

(Normally, a chapbook refers to a small publication of about 40 pages, but I use this word in the context of a portable notebook where ideas are recorded as they spontaneously occur.)

Above: Chapbook frontispiece of Voltaire’s The Extraordinary Tragical Fate of Calas, showing a man being tortured on a breaking wheel, late 18th century

Just a sample:

  • Scaling the Fish: Travels around Lake Constance

Bodensee satellit.jpg

  • Mellow Yellow: Switzerland Discovered in Slow Motion

  • The Coffeehouse Chronicles (an older man in love with a much younger woman)

Above: Café de Flore in Paris is one of the oldest coffeehouses in the city.

It is celebrated for its famous clientele, which in the past included high-profile writers and philosophers

  • America 47 (think 47 Ronin meets Trumpian times)

Flag of the United States

  • 20th Century Man (think time travel)

The Time Machine (H. G. Wells, William Heinemann, 1895) title page.jpg

  • Lover’s Cross (a Beta male escapes his Alpha wife)

Jim Croce - Lover's Cross (1985, Vinyl) | Discogs

  • Alicia in Switzerland (Alice in Wonderland meets Gulliver’s Travels in Switzerland)

Alice in Wonderland (1951 film) poster.jpg

  • Love in the Time of Corona (though the title is reminiscent of Love in the Time of Cholera, the story is more about the virtues of faith, family and hope in periods of plague)

LoveInTheTimeOfCholera.jpg

  • Gone Mad (what is sanity and how is the world seen by those judged ill in this regard)

Above: Engraving of the eighth print of A Rake’s Progress, depicting inmates at Bedlam Asylum, by William Hogarth.

  • The Forest of Shadows (sci-fi that asks the question what if the past never dies?)

Above: Conifer forest, Swiss National Park

I have the ideas.

I believe I have the talent.

What is lacking is the ability to market myself and the discipline to be a prolific writer.

Still I believe that each day I am getting closer to the realization of my ambitions.

Doug And The Slugs - Day By Day (1985, Vinyl) | Discogs

One thing that inspires my creativity is my travels and sometimes even a drive through the country can be the spark that ignites my imagination.

Landschlacht to Flims (Part One), Thursday 28 May 2020

Transport of the mails, transport of the human voice, transport of flickering pictures – in this century, as in others, our highest accomplishments still have the single aim of bringing men together.” (Antoine de Saint-Exupéry)

Saint-Exupéry in Toulouse, 1933

Above: Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (1900 – 1944)

He and She

In a sense, it is travelling together that can make (or break) a relationship.

My wife and I don’t always live together harmoniously, but, generally, we travel well together.

Like any relationship with two (or more) people, harmony is possible once an understanding of who the other person is and what they like becomes clearer.

He said she said.jpg

My wife is an efficient German doctor who sets a goal and will not stop until it is realized, and for this she does have my respect.

I am the “life is a journey, not a destination dreamer in the relationship.

Life Is a Highway Tom Cochrane.jpg

I recall a bitter battle of poorly chosen words between us when on a journey between Freiburg im Breisgau (Black Forest of southwestern Germany) and Bretagne (on the Atlantic coast of France) we argued over efficiency over effectiveness.

I wanted to explore the regions between the Black Forest and Bretagne instead of simply rushing through them.

She, the driver, found driving through towns far more exhausting than sticking to motorways.

I, the passenger, wanted to see more than concrete rest stops where we wouldn’t stop and far-off fields we would never walk.

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Over the years we have come to an unspoken compromise.

We travel slowly to our travel destination and zoom home after our time there was complete.

Above: The Tortoise and the Hare“, from an edition of Caleb’s Fables illustrated by Arthur Rackham, 1912

On this day our journey in Switzerland (as of this day the borders around Switzerland were not yet open) wasn’t far by Canadian driving standards: a little over an hour and an half if we followed Highway 13 and Expressway 62 from Landschlacht in Canton Thurgau to Flims in Canton Graubünden.

Instead we opted to take the scenic route, avoiding as much as humanly possible heavily trafficked Autobahns, extending the journey at least another hour if we did not stop on the way.

Flag of Switzerland

I’ve no use for statements in which something is kept back, ” he added.  “And that is why I shall not furnish information in supprt of yours.

The journalist smiled.

You talk the language of St. Just.

Without raising his voice Rieux said he knew nothing about that.

The language he used was that of a man who was sick and tired of the world he lived in – though he had much liking for his fellow men – and had resolved, for his part, to have no truck with injustice and compromises with the truth.

His shoulders hunched, Rambert gazed at the doctor for some Moments without speaking.

Then, “I think I understand you,” he said, getting up from his chair.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

La Peste book cover.jpg

The Private Secret Language of Altnau

What I do know for certain is that what is regarded as success in a rational materialistic society only impresses superficial minds. 

It amounts to nothing and will not help us rout the destructive forces threatening us today. 

What may be our salvation is the discovery of the identity hidden deep in any one of us, and which may be found in even the most desperate individual, if he cares to search the spiritual womb which contains the embryo of what can be one’s personal contribution to truth and life.

(Patrick White)

White in Sydney, 1973

Above: Patrick White (1912 – 1990)

Heading east along Highway 13 from Landschlacht, the Traveller comes to Altnau (population: 2,244).

During the Lockdown (16 March to 10 May 2020) I often followed the walking path that hugs the shore of Lake Constance, north of both the Lake Road (Highway #13) and the Thurbo rail line, from Landschlacht to Altnau.

Visitors that zoom past Landschlacht often zoom past Altnau as well, as both Highway #13 and the railroad lie north of the town centre, so neither connection to Altnau is a boon to tourism or the economy as a whole.

Altnau remains for most people only a deliberate distant choice, which is a shame as the town entire has been designated as part of the Inventory of Swiss Heritage Sites, with a special focus on the town’s Reformed and Catholic churches and the Apfelweg (apple path).

Oberdorf Altnau

Above: Upper town, Altnau, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The Apfelweg, the first fruit educational path in Switzerland, is a nine-kilometre long circular route which explains with 16 signs everything you didn’t know you wanted to know about apples and apple production.

Understandably the Apfelweg is best done in the spring when the blossoms are on the orchards or late summer when the apples are ready to be harvested.

Apfelweg Altnau - Thurgau Tourismus

What can be seen by the lakeside visitor, even viewed from the highway or the train, is the Altnau Pier (Schiffsanlegesteg Altnau).

Completed in 2010, at a length of 270 metres, because of the wide shallow water zone, the Pier is the longest jetty on Lake Constance.

Altnauers call this jetty the Eiffel Tower of Lake Constance because the length of the jetty is the same as the height of the Tower.

Above: Altnau Pier

Notable people have formed the fabric of Altnau.

Hans Baumgartner (1911 – 1996), a famous (by Swiss standards) photographer was born here.

He studied in Kreuzlingen and Zürich and would later teach in Steckborn and Frauenfeld.

He would later sell his photographs to magazines and newspapers.

In 1937, Baumgartner met the Berlingen artist Adolf Dietrich who would feature in many of Baumgartner’s future photographs.

Adolf Dietrich.jpg

Above: Adolf Dietrich (1877 – 1957)

Baumgartner travelled and photographed Paris, Italy, the Balkans, southern France, North Africa and the Sahara, Croatia and the Dalmatian Coast, Burgundy, Spain, Portugal, Sweden, Finland, the US, Mexico, Belgium and Germany.

He also visited Bombay, Colombo, Saigon, Hong Kong and Yokohama.

He even photographed his spa visits in Davos.

Der Chronist mit der Kamera | Journal21

Above: Hans Baumgartner (1911 – 1996)

Altnau attracted the likes of composer-poetess Olga Diener (1890 – 1963).

Born in St. Gallen, Olga lived in Altnau from 1933 to 1943.

Diener, Olga Nachlass Olga Diener

Above: Olga Diener

In a letter to Hans Reinhart in June 1934, Hermann Hesse wrote about Olga’s work:

“I like Olga’s dreams very much.

I also love many of her pictures and their rhythms, but I see them enclosed in a glasshouse that separates her and her poems from the world.

That miracle must come about in poetry, that one speaks his own language and his pictures, be it only associative, that others can understand – that distinguishes the dream from poetry.

Olga’s verses are, for me at least, far too much dream and far too little poetry.

She has her personal secret language not being able to approximate the general language in such a way that the sender and recipient correspond to each other.

So I am privately a genuine friend of Olga’s and her books, but as a writer I am not able to classify them.

Hermann Hesse 2.jpg

Above: Hermann Hesse (1877 – 1962)

Besides Hesse, of the visitors Olga Diener had in her Altnau home, of interest is fellow poet Hans Reinhart (1880 – 1963).

Reinhart came from a Winterthur trading family, which allowed him the opportunity to lead a financially independent poet’s life.

During a spa stay in Karlovy Vary in the late summer of 1889, Reinhart read Hans Christian Andersen‘s fairy tales for the first time.

Andersen in 1869

Above: Hans Christian Andersen (1805 – 1875)

They deeply impressed Reinhart and he later transformed them into stage plays.

After his secondary studies, “Müggli” studied philosophy, psychology, German, art, theatre and music history in Heidelberg, Berlin, Zürich, Paris, Leipzig and Munich.

After completing his studies, he met Rudolf Steiner for the first time in 1905, whom he recognized as a spiritual teacher.

Reinhart later helped Steiner build the first Goetheanum and made friends with other anthroposophists.

In 1941 Reinhart brought his friend Alfred Mombert and his sister from the French internment camp Gurs to Winterthur.

Reinhart Hans, 1880-1963, Dichter - Winterthur Glossar

Above: Hans Reinhart (1880 – 1963)

Another of Olga’s Altnau guests was writer / poet Emanuel von Bodman (1874 – 1946).

Bodman lived in Kreuzlingen as a child and attended high school in Konstanz.

After studying in Zürich, Munich and Berlin, he chose Switzerland’s Gottlieben as his adopted home.

His home, like Olga’s, was the meeting point for many artists, including the famous Rainer Maria Rilke and Hermann Hesse.

Bodman wrote several dramas, short stories and hundreds of poems.

He was seen as a poet, storyteller and playwright in the neo-romantic, neo-classical tradition.

Emanuel von Bodman - Liebesgedichte und Biographie

Above: Emanuel von Bodman

I write about these members of a long-departed Dead Poets Society, whose works we have not read and might never read, to inspire us.

If writers, poets, artists and musicians can come from Here and their works be loved (at least in their times) then perhaps we too can rise above our humblest of origins and find such luck to inspire others.

Dead poets society.jpg

All of these wordsmiths and miracle scribes seem, without exception, all thick and heavy with each other.

And herein lies my weakness.

By temperament, I am more like the Americans Charles Bukowski and Eric Hoffer than I am like those one might call the litterati.

Charles Bukowski smoking.jpg

Above: Charles Bukowski (1920 – 1994)

Eric Hoffer in 1967, in the Oval Office, visiting President Lyndon Baines Johnson

Above: Eric Hoffer (1898 – 1983)

But there is the Internet – a potential tool I have yet to master.

Visualization of Internet routing paths

Above: Visualization of Internet routing paths

Today, hardly anyone knows the poet Olga Diener.

It almost seems as if her existence was as unreal as the tone of her poems.

She was once a very real phenomenon on Lake Constance where she had her permanent residence during the 1930s.

She had an exchange of letters with Hermann Hesse.

The poets Hans Reinhart and Emanuel von Bodman were among the guests at her annual anniversary celebrations (4 January) by candlelight.

Pin by Rine Ling on bokeh art photography | Candles photography ...

Otherwise she avoided the company of people with their too many disappointments and losses.

Her house “Belrepeire“, which she had planned herself, was a little bit away from the village.

Belrepeire” is the name of a city in Wolfram von Eschenbach’s poem “Parzival“.

Above: Statue of Wolfram von Eschenbach (1160 – 1220), Abenburg Castle, Bavaria, Germany

The poet was under the spell of the Grail myth.

Above: The Holy Grail depicted on a stained glass window at Quimper Cathedral, France

Olga found in the silence of her seclusion, the voice of her poems, which bore fairytale titles like “The Golden Castle” or “The White Deer“.

In this mystery game, a character named Blaniseflur sings the verses:

All the gardens have woken up. 

Dew fell from the stars and

Venus Maria walked through them with her light feet. 

Now flowers breathe the sky

And the Earth fulfills the dream

Received from spring night.

How a blackbird sings! 

The longing carries the swans

Swinging across the lake. 

The sun rises red from the water.

Light is everything.

Sunrise on the Lake Constance | Bodensee, in German. Konstan… | Flickr

The images Olga saw on long walks on the shores of the Lake, as she would have said, condensed into dreamlike structures, the form of which was often difficult to understand.

Even Hans Rheinhart, who made the only attempt for decades to critically appreciate Olga in the Bodenseebuch (the Book of Lake Constance) in 1935, did not understand her “private secret language“.

jahrgaenge 1935 - ZVAB

Olga was actually a musician.

For her there was no creative difference between writing and composing.

How musical her language was can immediately be heard when her poetry is read out loud.

Her words are full of sound relationships far beyond the usual measure, which Hesse described:

In your newer verses there is often such a beautiful sound.”

Music notes set musical note treble clef Vector Image

Olga wrote notes like other people speak words.

In the guestbook of Julie and Jakobus Weidenmann, she immortalized herself with a song instead of verses.

She was often a guest at the Weidenmanns.

Julie shared Olga’s natural mystical worldview, which was coloured Christian, while Olga tended to esotericism.

Julie’s first volume of poems is entitled Tree Songs, while Olga wrote a cycle called Rose Songs in Altnau.

Jakobus Weidenmann – Personenlexikon BL

Above: Jakobus and Julie Weidenmann

The seventh poem of Olga’s cycle contains her lyrical confession:

Leave me in the innermost garden

Faithfully my roses wait:

Fertilize, cut, bind,

Cut hands from thorns.

The blooming light, awake moonlight

Enter the flower goblets.

The winds pull gently over it,

And rain roars in some nights.

I am earthbound like her

And once again disappeared.

Unlike Olga, Golo Mann (1909 – 1994) was anything but a mystic.

As the son of Thomas Mann, Golo belonged to one of the most famous literary families in the world.

Not only his father, but also his uncle Heinrich and his siblings Erika, Klaus, Monika, Elisabeth and Michael worked as writers.

Writing was in Golo’s blood.

Above: Golo Mann (1909 – 1994)

This does not mean that writing was always easy for him.

On the contrary, like all of Thomas Mann’s children, Golo was overshadowed by his father and did not feel privileged to be the son of a Nobel laureate in literature.

Golo saw himself primarily as a historian and thus distinguished himself from the novelist who was his father.

Above: Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

Nevertheless, Golo used a thoroughly literary approach to history.

Two of his books are titled History and Stories and Historiography as Literature.

The fact that Golo cultivated a narrative style that earned him condescending reviews and the derisive ridicule of fellow historians, but this did not stop the general public from enthusiastically reading his books.

Deutsche Geschichte des 19. und 20. Jahrhunderts - Golo Mann ...

Golo Mann’s first bestseller was largely created in Thurgau.

Again and again Golo retired to Altnau for several weeks in the Zur Krone Inn, for the first time in summer 1949.

His memories of Lake Constance were published in 1984 in the anthology Mein Bodensee: Liebeserklärung an eine Landschaft (My Lake Constance: Declaration of Love for a Landscape), under the title “Mit wehmütigen Vergnügen” (with wistful pleasure).

There he writes about the Krone:

There was an inn on the ground floor, the owner’s family had set up an apartment on the first floor, and on the second floor a few small rooms connected by a forecourt were available to friends of the Pfisters, the bookseller Emil Oprecht and his wife Emmi.

Thanks to my friend Emmi, they became my asylum, my work and retirement home.

Emmi and Emil Oprecht belonged to the circle of friends of Julie and Jakobus Weidenmann in Kesswil.

The Oprecht home in Zürich was a meeting point for all opponents of the Hitler regime during the war.

Ziviler Ungehorsam gegen Hitler: Wie Emil und Emmie Oprecht auch ...

Above: Emil and Emmi Oprecht

Europa Verlag (Europa Publishing) was committed to the same democratic and social spirit as that of the Weidenmann guests in the 1920s, including Golo’s siblings Erika and Klaus.

Above: Erika Mann (1905 – 1969) and Klaus Mann (1906 – 1949)

Golo’s father was good friends with Emil Oprecht and published the magazine Mass und Wert (Measure and Value) together with Konrad Falke (1880 – 1942).

It is ultimately thanks to these diverse relationships that Golo Mann put his Deutsche Geschichte des 19. und 20. Jahrhunderts (German History of the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries) in paper in 1956 and 1957, primarily in Altnau.

The success of this book made it possible for Golo Mann, who had gone into American exile like his father, to finally return to Europe.

It looked like nothing stood in the way of his academic career.

When his appointment to the University of Frankfurt did not come about, Golo retired from teaching and lived from then on a freelance writer in his parents’ home in Kilchberg on Lake Zürich and in Berzona in Canton Ticino, where fellow writers Alfred Andersch (1914 – 1980) and Max Frisch were his neighbours.

Above: Max Frisch (1911 – 1981)

In Kilchberg, Berzona, and again in Altnau, Golo wrote his opus magnum, Wallenstein – Sein Leben erzählt von Golo Mann (Wallenstein: His Life Told by Golo Mann).

Telling history was completely frowned upon by academic historians in 1971, the year this monumental biography was published, but Golo didn’t care nor did the thousands of his readers.

Wallenstein“ (Golo Mann) – Buch gebraucht kaufen – A02lgtja01ZZ4

Despite hostility from university critics, Golo was awarded two honorary doctorates, in France and England, but not in the German-speaking world.

In addition, he was awarded a number of literary prizes for his books: the Schiller Prize, the Lessner Ring, the Georg Büchner Prize, the Goethe Prize and the Bodensee Literature Prize.

Große Kreisstadt Überlingen: Bodensee-Literaturpreis

The last will have particularly pleased him, because the Lake smiled at the beginning of his literary fame.

(For more on the entire Thomas Mann family, please see Canada Slim and the Family of Mann in my other blog, The Chronicles of Canada Slimhttps://canadaslim.wordpress.com)

The Lake seemed to be smiling at the beginning of our journey as we left Highway #13 in the direction of Sommeri.

Summery Sommeri Summary

The word ‘plague’ had just been uttered for the first time….

Everybody knows that pestilences have a way of recurring in the world.

Yet somehow we find it hard to believe in ones that crash down on our heads from a blue sky.

There have been as many plagues as wars in history.

Yet always plagues and wars take people equally by surprise.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Above: The plague, Marseille, France, 1720, Michel Serré

Sommeri (population: 591) is first mentioned in 905 as Sumbrinaro.

Between 1474 and 1798, the villages of Niedersommeri and Obersommeri formed a court of the PrinceAbbot of St. Gall.

In 1474 the Church of St. Mauritius was dedicated.

It was renovated to its current appearance in the first half of the 15th century.

After the Protestant Reformation reached Sommeri in 1528, the church became a shared church for both faiths in 1534.

Originally the major economic activities in Sommeri were predominantly grain production and forestry.

Wappen von Sommeri

Above: Coat-of-arms of Sommeri

It was nearly obliterated by the Black Death in 1629.

In the second half of the 19th century, fruit production, hay production, cattle and dairy farming were added.

A cheese factory was opened in 1852.

In the last third of the 20th century, some industrial plants moved into the villages, especially embroidery and furniture manufacturing.

At the beginning of the 21st century there were companies in the HVAC industry, precision engineering and manufacturing school furniture in Sommeri.

Sommeri

Above: Sommeri, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

To be frank, there is no reason to linger in Sommeri, except to say that it was the birthplace of the writer Maria Dutli-Rutlishauser (1903 – 1995) of whom I have previously written.

Alt- Steckborn

Above: Maria Dutli-Rutlishauser

(For more on Maria, please see Canada Slim and the Immunity Wall of this blog.)

Onwards.

From Sommeri, Google Maps leads her hapless wanderers onwards to Langrickenbach.

Google Maps Logo.svg

Query:

How contrive not to waste time?

Answer:

By being fully aware of it all the while.

Ways in which this can be done:

By spending one’s days on an uneasy chair in a dentist’s waiting room, by remaining on one’s balcony all Sunday afternoon, by listening to lectures in a language one doesn’t know, by travelling by the longest and least convenient train routes, and, of course, standing all the way, by queuing at the box office of theatres and then not booking a seat. 

And so forth.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Longing for Langrickenbach

Langrickenbach (population: 1,291) was first mentioned in 889 as “Rihchinbahc“.

It is a place for crops and fruit, cattle breeding and dairy farming, general goods, timber and cattle trading.

Again, not much to see.

Hit the road.

Above: Langrickenbach, Canton Thurgau

Watching cows and calves playing, grooming one another or being assertive, takes on a whole new dimension if you know that those taking part are siblings, cousins, friends or sworn enemies.

If you know animals as individuals you notice how often older brothers are kind to younger ones, how sisters seek or avoid each other’s company, and which families always get together at night to sleep and which never do so.

Cows are as varied as people.

They can be highly intelligent or slow to understand, friendly, considerate, aggressive, docile, inventive, dull, proud or shy.

All these characteristics are present in a large enough herd.”

(Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows)

The Secret Life of Cows: Amazon.co.uk: Young, Rosamund ...

The Birwinken Bulletin

Makes me think of Bullwinkle, the cartoon moose and his squirrel friend Rocky.

No moose or squirrels spotted.

Above from left to right: Rocky, Bullwinkle, and Captain Peter “Wrongway” Peachfuzz

Birwinken (population: 1,319) was first mentioned in 822 as “Wirinchova“.

In the 19th century, the village economy added animal husbandry….

Cattle feedlot

(My wife is an animal?)

….to the traditional agriculture and fruit growing.

In 1878, a weaving firm and three embroidery factories provided 165 jobs.

However the decline of the textile industry in the 20th century and the village’s remoteness from Anywhere led to high levels of emigration.

As a result, the village never developed much industry and has remained a farmer’s hamlet.

In 1990, for example, 63% of the population worked in agriculture.

Birwinken

Above: Birwinken, Canton Thurgau

It was only a matter of lucidly recognizing what had to be recognized, of dispelling extraneous shadows and doing what needed to be done….

There lay certitude.

There, in the daily round.

All the rest hung on mere threads and trivial contingencies.

You couldn’t waste your time on it.

The thing was to do your job as it should be done.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

The Doctor Luke Fildes crop.jpg

Above: The Doctor, Luke Fildes, 1891

What is an extremely interesting product of the village is native son Stefan Keller (b. 1958), a writer, journalist and historian.

Rotpunktverlag

Above: Stefan Keller

Keller is best known for:

  • Die Rückkehr: Joseph Springs Geschichte (The Return: Joseph Spring’s Story)

The Berlin youth Joseph Sprung was chased through half of Europe by the Nazis.

He lived in Brussels, Montpellier and Bordeaux with false papers and worked as an interpreter without being recognized.

He survived invasions and rail disasters, but never kissed a girl when he fell into the hands of the Swiss border authorities in November 1943.

At the age of 16, the fugitive was handed over to the Gestapo by the Swiss border guards and denounced as a Jew.

He was transferred to the Auschwitz concentration camp via the Drancy collective warehouse near Paris.

Sixty years later, Joseph Sprung returned to Switzerland.

Today his name is Joseph Spring, he lives in Australia and demands the justice he deserves.

He accused the Swiss government of aiding and abetting genocide.

In a sensational trial, the Swiss federal court decided in 2000 that the extradition of a Jewish youth to the National Socialists can no longer be judged.

Joseph Spring had at least asked for symbolic reparation.

In November 2003, he returned to Switzerland to tell his story:

The story of a survivor who sued an entire country, went through a process to demand justice, lost it, and still has the last word.

Die Rückkehr: Joseph Springs Geschichte (Hörbuch-Download): Amazon ...

  • Die Zeit der Fabriken (The Age of Factories)

The worker Emil Baumann was already dead when his former superior Hippolyt Saurer died unexpectedly.

The whole of Arbon mourned the truck manufacturer Saurer.

At that time, almost all of Arbon mourned Baumann, for whom the workers in Saurer’s factory were responsible for his death.

Emil Baumann died shortly after an argument with his boss Saurer.

It is 1935 when everything starts with two deaths.

The young lathe operator Emil Baumann dies from suicide because his master harasses him and because he cannot cope with the new working conditions.

The college immediately went on strike.

Then the entrepreneur and engineer Hippolyt Saurer dies.

He choked on his own blood after an tonsil operation.

Based on the death of these two men, Stefan Keller tells the story of a small town in eastern Switzerland, its conflicts, triumphs and defeats.

The city of Arbon on the Swiss shore of Lake Constance is ruled by the “Reds” (by the Social Democrats, the left).

The Adolph Saurer AG factory was and still is legendary for its (military) trucks.

Above: Memorial to Franz, Adolph und Hippolyt Saurer, Arbon

Arbon is an example of many places in Switzerland:

The time of the factories is also a history of the Swiss industry and workers’ movement.

Starting with the motor carriages of the Wilhelminian era to the Saurer gasification trucks of the National Socialists, from the big strikes after 1918 to the dismantling of almost all jobs in the 1990s and from the resistance of an editor against censors in the Second World War to the union’s «fight against» against foreign colleagues.

Die Zeit der Fabriken: Amazon.de: Stefan Keller: Bücher

  • Grüningers Fall (The Grüninger Case)

A historical report about the St. Gallen police captain Paul Grüninger, who in the 1930s, according to his conscience and not in accordance with the law, saved the lives of numerous Jews.

The facts:

In 1938/1939, Grüninger saved the lives of hundreds, if not thousands, of Austrian, Jewish refugees by providing them with the wrong papers and thus enabling them to enter Switzerland legally.

He was suspended from duty due to breach of official duties and falsification of documents.

He was severely fined for his conduct and sentenced to prison.

The book aims to make it clear that today it was not Grüninger who would have to sit on the dock, but the inhumane refugee policy of the Swiss government during the Nazi era.

The book was made into a film in 1997 based on a screenplay by Stefan Keller and directed by Richard Dindo with Keller’s expert advice.

Grüningers Fall

  • Maria Theresia Wilhelm: Spurlos verschwunden (Maria Theresia Wilhelm: Disappeared without a trace)

In the mid-1930s Maria Theresia Wilhelm met the Swiss mountain farmer and gamekeeper Ulrich Gantenbein, who subsequently left his first wife.

From the beginning Maria and Ulrich’s marriage suffered from official regulations.

Ulrich is admitted to a psychiatric clinic shortly after their marriage.

Maria is barely tolerated by the neighbourhood.

Eventually she too comes to a psychiatric clinic and there experiences inhumane therapy methods from today’s perspective.

Her seven children are torn away, placed in orphanages and put to work.

Maria is finally released in June 1960.

On the way to buy shoes, she disappears without a trace….

Maria Theresia Wilhelm - spurlos verschwunden - Stefan Keller ...

Rieux asked Grand if he was doing extra work for the Municipality.

Grand said No.

He was working on his own account.

“Really?”, Rieux said, to keep the conversation going.

“And are you getting on well with it?”

“Considering I’ve been at it for years, it would be surprising if I wasn’t.

Though, in one sense, there hasn’t been much progress.”

“May one know” – the doctor halted – “what it is that you’re engaged on?”

Grand put a hand up to his hat and tugged it down upon his big, protruding ears, then murmured some half-inaudible remark from which Rieux seemed to gather that Grand’s work was connected with “the growth of a personality”.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Bürglen Bound

Next town Google leads us to is Bürglen (population: 3,841), first mentioned in 1282 as “Burgelon“.

Even though the village was fortified around 1300, it was never considered a city, due to the decline of its owner, the Baron of Sax-Hohensax, and from other neighbouring villages.

After the disastrous fire of 1528, the villagers went into debt for the reconstruction of Bürglen.

To help pay off their debt, in 1540 they granted the nobility rights to St. Gallen.

Under St. Gallen, Bürglen lost most of its autonomy.

St. Gallen appointed the bailiff and the chairman of the Lower Court, promoted the settlement of its citizens to form a local elite and change the succession order of inheritances.

Despite this, the local farmers enjoyed a certain independence.

In the 17th century, they promoted the expansion of the Castle as well as the creation of new businesses.

This relative prosperity was followed in the 18th century by a government practice that hindered the formation of viable village government and led to general impoverishment.

Reformierte Kirche und Schloss Bürglen

Above: Bürglen, Canton Thurgau

Power mattered more than people.

A problem eternal and universal.

Worth seeing is the Bürgeln Castle, the old quarter and the Reformed Church.

Above: Bürglen Castle

Of notable personalities connected to Bürgeln, it was home to artists Gottlieb Bion (1804 – 1876), Fritz Gilsi (1878 – 1961) and Jacques Schedler (1927 – 1989) as well as the writer Elisabeth Binder (b. 1951).

I haven’t read Ms. Binder’s work as yet, but the titles sound appealing…..

  • Der Nachtblaue (The Night Blue)
  • Sommergeschicht (Summer Story)
  • Orfeo
  • Der Wintergast (The Winter Guest)
  • Ein kleiner und kleiner werdender Reiter: Spurren einer Kindheit (A rider getting smaller and smaller: Traces of a childhood)

Above: Elisabeth Binder

Ever south and east the long and winding road continues….

The long and winding road.png

Cottard was a silent, secretive man, with something about him that made Grand think of a wild boar.

His bedroom, meals at a cheap restaurant, some rather mysterious comings and goings . these were the sum of Cottard’s days.

He described himself as a traveller in wines and spirits.

Now and again he was visited by two or three men, presumably customers.

Sometimes in the evening he would go to a cinema across the way.

In this connection Grand mentioned a detail he had noticed – that Cottard seemed to have a preference for gangster films.

But the thing that had struck him most about the man was his aloofness, not to say his mistrust of everyone he met.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Nighthawks by Edward Hopper 1942.jpg

Above: Nighthawks, Edward Hopper, 1942

Few Words for Wuppenau

Wuppenau (population: 1,111) was first mentioned in 820 as “Wabbinauwa” and is primarily an agricultural community.

Wuppenau

Above: Wuppenau, Canton Thurgau

(It is funny how so many of the original names seem similar to those of the Original Peoples of the Americas.

Or akin to something Elmer Fudd might say about wascally wabbits.)

ElmerFudd.gif

….and that’s all I have to say about that.

Film poster with a white background and a park bench (facing away from the viewer) near the bottom. A man wearing a white suit is sitting on the right side of the bench and is looking to his left while resting his hands on both sides of him on the bench. A suitcase is sitting on the ground, and the man is wearing tennis shoes. At the top left of the image is the film's tagline and title and at the bottom is the release date and production credits.

We are now in Canton St. Gallen and the city of Wil (pronounced “ville”).

Wappen von Wil

Above: Coat of arms of Wil, Canton St. Gallen

The Word Pump and the Swan Song of Wil

“I have the same idea with all my books: an attempt to come close to the core of reality, the structure of reality, as opposed to the merely superficial. 

The realistic novel is remote from art. 

A novel should heighten life, should give one an illuminating experience. 

It shouldn’t set out what you know already. 

I just muddle away at it. 

One gets flashes here and there, which help. 

I am not a philosopher or an intellectual. 

Practically anything I have done of any worth I feel I have done through my intuition, not my mind.”  (Patrick White)

There are times in a man’s life when he simply must ask for assistance and my trying to convey to you an accurate mental image of Wil may require the services of an expert.

Above: Wil Castle

Ask Fred.

Fred Mast, excuse me, Professor Dr. Mast.

Born and raised in Wil, Fred is a full professor at the University of Bern, specialized in mental imagery, sensory motor processing and visual perception.

Perhaps he is one of the few folks who can truly answer the question:

Do you see what I see?

Über uns: Prof. Dr. Fred Mast - Kognitive Psychologie, Wahrnehmung ...

Above: Dr. Fred Mast

I mean, Fred should know, he has been educated and worked at universities esteemable, such as Zürich, the Federal Institute of Technology (ETHZ)(Switzerland’s equivalent to MIT), Harvard, MIT, Lausanne and Bern.

Some of his published papers suggest he does know what he is talking about:

  • Visual mental imagery interferes with allocentric orientation judgments
  • Visual mental images can be ambiguous
  • Mental images: always present, never there

Black Mamba oder die Macht der Imagination: Wie unser Gehirn die ...

Thanks, Dr. Fred, for demystifying the fuzzification.

Let me say for the record that as a place to visit I have always liked Wil….

But as a place to work….not as much.

Wil (population: 23,955), today the 3rd biggest city in Canton St. Gallen, was founded around 1200 and was handed over by the Counts of Toggenburg to the Abbey of St. Gallen in 1226.

(Look, Ma!  Look at what I founded!)

Disputes between the Abbey and Habsburg King Rudolf I (1218 – 1291) led to the destruction of Wil in 1292.

(If Rudolf couldn’t have Wil, then no one will?)

Above: Statue of Rudolf I, Speyer Cathederal, Germany

Wil was again besieged in the Old Zürich War in 1445 and yet again in the Toggenburg War in 1712.

On 1 January 2013, Susanne Hartmann became the first female mayor, not only of Wil-Bronschhofen, but in the entire canton of St. Gallen.

Hartmann announced her candidacy in April 2012.

Despite all forecasts the result of the elections was a landslide victory for Susanne Hartmann.

Despite (or perhaps because) the bus being driven by a woman, Will carries on.

Susanne Hartmann :: CVP Kanton St. Gallen

Above: Her Honour Wil Mayor Susanne Hartmann

In addition to many small and medium-sized enterprises, Wil is also home to a number of large, some international, industrial firms, including Stihl, Larag, Camion Transport, Brändle, Heimgartner Fahnen, Schmolz & Bickenbach, Kindlemann….

So it stands to reason that a city of industry may attract schools to teach those in these industries.

Such was the Wil school (now defunct) where I taught.

It was, what we in the business of freelance teaching refer to as a “cowboy school“, an institution more interested in the school’s acquisition of money than in the students’ acquisition of an education.

It was one of those schools where parents sent their children who lacked either the capacity or the desire to learn.

A paid education in all senses of the word.

It was a nightmare to teach there.

Blackboard Jungle (1955 poster).jpg

The students, best defined as juvenile deliquents or little criminal bastards, would not do their assignments, stay off their damn phones, bring their textbooks to class, listen in class or stop talking to one another.

The worst of them brought out the worst in me, so it was to everyone’s mutual relief when we parted company.

Above: Student – Teacher Monument, Rostock, Germany

As for the city of Wil itself, putting aside my feelings towards my ex-employer now extinct, there is much that is positive to relate.

Wil is considered to be the best preserved city in Eastern Switzerland and best seen from afar standing atop the Stadtweiher (a hill with a pond overlooking Wil) overlooking the silhouette of the old quarter.

The pedestrian promenade from Schwanenkreisel (Swan Circle) towards the old quarter is the place where most of the shops are, including a farmer’s market every Saturday.

On 8 July 2006, the 37-metre high Wiler Tower was inaugurated on the Hofberg (the mountain above Wil).

It is a wooden structure with a double spiral staircase and three X supports.

It is worth the climb for the view, if not for the exercise.

Around 180 kilometres of hiking trails are signposted around Wil.

The almost 33 kilometres long Wilerrundweg (Wil Circle Path)….

(Safer than a cycle path?)

….was established in 2013.

Kussbänkli: Kantonsrat Sennhauser hat es hergestellt – und ...

Above: The Kissing Bench

The 87-kilometre Toggenburger Höhenweg (high road) starts in Wil and leads to Wildhaus via Mühlrüti, Atzmännig and Arvenbüel.

Toggenburger Höhenweg - Ferienregion Toggenburg - Ostschweiz

The Thurweg passes near Wil at Schwarzenbach (black creek), following the Thur River from Wildhaus to Rüdlingen where it meets the Rhine River in Canton Schaffhausen.

Thurweg von Stein nach Ebnat- Kappel - MeinToggenburg.ch

Worth seeing in Wil are the Maria Hilf Wallfahrtskirche (Mary of Charity Pilgrim Church), the Abbey Castle, the St. Katarina Dominican and the Capuchin Cloisters, the Courthouse, Ruddenzburg (Ruddenz Castle), St. Niklaus and St. Peter Catholic Churches, the old Guardhouse, the City Archive, the Schnetztor gate, the City Museum (open on weekends from 2 to 5 pm), the psychiatric clinic (ask, in vain, for Dr. Fred) and the former Hurlimann tractor factory.

Wil has the Challer Theatre, the Kunsthalle (art hall), the Tonhalle (concert hall) and the Remise (for more modern music), but excepting these cultural remnants the young generally don’t party here if they can get away to Zürich.

The room was in almost complete darkness.

Outside, the street was growing noisier and a sort of murmur of relief greeted the moment when all the street lamps lit up, all together.

Rieux went out on to the balcony and Cottard followed him.

From the outlying districts – as happens every evening in our town – a gentle breeze wafted a murmur of voices, smells of roasting meat, a gay perfumed tide of freedom sounding on its ways, as the streets filled up with noisy young people released from shops and offices.

Nightfall with its deep remote baying of unseen ships, the rumour rising from the sea and the happy tumult of the crowd – that first hour of darkness which in the past had always had a special charm for Rieux – seemed today charged with menace, because of all he knew.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Mediterranean side – Oran

Above: Oran, Algeria

Of the many famous people native to Wil, noteworthy (by Swiss standards) are the filmmaker Max Peter Ammann (b. 1929) and the TV star Kurt Felix (1941 – 2012).

LESE-THEATER-STÜCK VON MAX PETER AMMANN IM HOF ZU WIL – wil24.ch

Above: Max Peter Ammann

Kurt Felix

Above: “When I must go, I will leave a happy man.

Daniel Imhof (b. 1977), the Swiss son of a Smithers (British Columbia) bush pilot, is a retired footballer from Canada’s national soccer team and now resides in Wil.

Canada Soccer

I think to myself:

I have finally gotten so impossible and unpleasant that they will really have to do something to make me better….

They have no idea what a bottomless pit of misery I am….

They do not know that this is not some practice fire drill meant to prepare them for the real inferno, because the real thing is happening right now.

All the bells say:

Too late.

It’s much too late and I’m so sure that they are still not listening.

(Elizabeth Wurtzel, Prozac Nation)

ProzacNationBook.jpg

Of human interest is the story of Wil native, the opera singer Anna Sutter (1871 – 1910).

Her brief affair with royal Württemberg court conductor Aloys Obrist proved to be fatal.

After she ended their two-year relationship in 1909, Obrist entered her Stuttgart apartment on 29 June 1910 and killed her with two pistol shots before taking his own life.

Sadly, Anna is best remembered for how she died than for how she lived.

Cows are individuals, as are sheep, pigs and hens, and, I dare say, all the creatures on the planet however unnoticed, unstudied or unsung.

Certainly, few would dispute that this is true of cats and dogs and horses.

When we have had occasion to treat a farm animal as a pet, because of illness, accident or bereavement, it has exhibited great intelligence, a huge capacity for affection and an ability to fit in with an unusual routine.

Perhaps everything boils down to the amount of time spent with any one animal – and perhaps that is true of humans too.

(Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows)

CH cow 2 cropped.jpg

Also worth mentioning is the writer René Oberholzer (b. 1963), who has been teaching in Wil (in a non-cowboy school it is hoped) since 1987.

He began writing poetry in 1986 and prose in 1991.

(I must confess my rural roots and prejudices appear when I find myself asking:

Do real men write (or even read) poetry?

I believe they do, but whether the fine folks in Argenteuil County in Canada feel that way is debatable.)

Shakespeare.jpg

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

Oberholzer founded the Höhenhöhe (higher heights) writers group in 1991.

As founding can be addictive, the following year he then founded the literary experimental group Die Wortpumpe (the Word Pump) together with his colleagues (co-conspirators?) Aglaja Veteranyi and Gabriele Leist.

He is a member of several author associations.

His work has been mainly published in anthologies, literary and online magazines.

He is best known for:

  • Wenn sein Herz nicht mehr geht, dann repariert man es und gibt es den Kühen weiter: 39 schwarze Geschichten (When his heart stops beating, repair it and give it to the cows: 39 dark tales)
  • Ich drehe den Hals um – Gedichte (I turn my stiff neck: Poems)
  • Die Liebe würde an einem Dienstag erfunden (Love was invented on a Tuesday)
  • Kein Grund zur Beunruhigung – Geschichten (No reason to panic: Stories)

Die Liebe wurde an einem Dienstag erfunden: 120 Geschichten | René ...

As my wife and I are married (no reason to panic) and it was a Thursday (as love only visits Wil on Tuesdays), we faithfully follow fatalistic Google Maps, and continue on to….

Why is it that one can look at a lion or a planet or an owl or at someone’s finger as long as one pleases, but looking into the eyes of another person is, if prolonged past a second, a perilous affair?

(Walker Percy)

Percy in 1987

Above: Walker Percy (1916 – 1990)

Restful Rickenbach

Rickenbach (population: 2,774), first mentioned in 754 as “Richinbach“.

After the end of the crop rotation system in the 19th century livestock and dairy farming became the major sources of income.

A mill, built in the 13th century, was expanded in 1919 to become Eberle Mills, which operated until 2000.

The Eschmann Bell Foundry existed until 1972.

After the construction of the A1 motorway and the growth of Wil, by 1990 the population of Rickenbach had doubled.

Langrickenbach

Above: Rickenbach

A bridged Lütisburg

When a war breaks out people say:

It’s too stupid.  It can’t last long.”

But though a war may well be ‘too stupid’, that doesn’t prevent its lasting.

Stupidity has a knack of getting its way.

As we should see if we were not always so much wrapped in ourselves.

In this respect our townsfolk were like everybody else, wrapped up in themselves.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Duns cup helps with concentration

Lütisburg (population: 1,576), though smaller than Rickenbach, is far more interesting to the casual visitor.

It is first mentioned on 1214 as “Luitinsburch“.

Wappen von Lütisburg

Above: Lütisburg coat of arms

The Castle, built in 1078 by the Abbey of St. Gallen, was abandoned by the Abbey a short time later, but due to the Castle’s strategically important location, it became the headquarters of the Counts of Toggenburg from the 13th to the 15th centuries.

After the Abbey acquired the County of Toggenburg in 1468, the Castle served as a bailiwick.

In the 19th century, alongside agriculture, ironworks, copper hammering and manufacturing dominated.

The train station has existed since 1870.

Above: Lütisburg, 1700

Lütisburg’s townscape is characterized by bridges and footbridges, including the Letzi Bridge (1853), the Guggenloch Railway Viaduct (1870) and the “new” Thur Bridge (1997).

The covered wooden bridge (1790) over the Thur River, on the cantonal road to Flawil, was used for car traffic until 1997.

Upon the wooden Letzi Bridge, the hiking trail to Ganterschwil crosses the Neckar River.

The nearby hamlet of Winzenburg with its Winzenberger Höhe (heights) (836 m) is a popular destination with local lovers of landscape.

B&B Winzenberg (Schweiz Lütisburg) - Booking.com

Lütisburg’s claim to fame, beside its bridges, lies with the two brothers Germann….

War of any kind is abhorrent. 

Remember that since the end of World War II, over 40 million people have been killed by conventional weapons. 

So, if we should succeed in averting nuclear war, we must not let ourselves be sold the alternative of conventional weapons for killing our fellow man. 

We must cure ourselves of the habit of war.

(Patrick White)

Modern warfare: Into the Jaws of Death, 1944

Kilian Germann (1485 – 1530) was the son of Johannes Germann, the Chief bailiff of Lütisburg, and brother of the mercenary leader (and later bailiff) Hans Germann (also known as the Batzenhammer) and Gallus Germann (also chief bailiff of Lütisburg).

Kilian was governor in Roschach (1523 – 1528) and in Wil (1528 -1529).

In 1529, Kilian was elected to be the next Prince-Abbot of St. Gallen in Rapperswil.

After his confirmation by Pope Clement VII (1478 – 1534), Kilian was also proposed for this position to Emperor Charles V (1500 – 1558) who confirmed him in February 1530.

Above: Coat of arms of Kilian Germann

But life often thwarts the best-laid plans….

What I am interested in is the relationship between the blundering human being and God.

I belong to no church, but I have a religious faith.

It is an attempt to express that, among other things, that I try to do.

Whether he confesses to being religious or not, everyone has a religious faith of a kind.

I myself am a blundering human being with a belief in God who made us and we got out of hand, a kind of Frankenstein monster.

Everyone can make mistakes, including God.

I believe that God does intervene.

I think there is a Divine Power, a Creator, who has an influence on human beings if they are willing to be open to Him.

(Patrick White)

Michelangelo - Creation of Adam (cropped).jpg

Above: Creation of Adam, Michelangelo, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Prince-Abbot Kilian fled to Meersburg (on the German side of Lake Constance) in 1529 after the outbreak of the First Kappel War.

From February 1530, Kilian lived at Wolfurt Castle near Bregenz (on the Austrian part of Lake Constance).

Above: Wolfurt Castle

In exile, Kilian nonetheless cultivated his social network with the southern German nobility in order to secure political pressure on the reformed movement on the Prince-Abbot’s lands, which did not escape the attention of his enemy, the reformer Vadian.

Above: Vadian statue, St. Gallen

In 1530, Kilian represented the Abbey of St. Gallen at the Council of Basel.

In July, he visited the Augsburg Reichstag (government).

It looked like Kilian’s fading star was beginning to shine once more.

That same year of his visits to Basel and Augsburg, returning to Bregenz after a visit to the Earl of Montfort, Kilian drowned when his horse fell into the Bregenz Ach (stream).

He was buried in the Mehrerau Monastery near Bregenz.

Abtei Mehrerau – Blick vom Gebhardsberg

Discipline is the soul of an army.

It makes small numbers formidable, procures success to the weak and success to all.

(George Washington)

Gilbert Stuart Williamstown Portrait of George Washington.jpg

Above: George Washington (1730 – 1799)

Hans Germann (1500 – 1550), Kilian’s younger brother, was an officer in the service of the French Crown for many years.

After returning home, Hans supported his brother Kilian during the turmoil of the Reformation.

Contemporaries described Hans as “a firm, brave, but rough, frivolous journeyman, who had sold many of his fellow countrymen to France for boring gold.”

Above: Coat of arms of Captain Hans Germann, Kreuzenstein Castle, Austria

I guess we find both sinners and saints in every family and in every community.

The socially disadvantaged of Ganterschwil

In my books I have lifted bits from various religions in trying to come to a better understanding.

I have made use of religious themes and symbols.

Now, as the world becomes more pagan, one has to lead people in the same direction in a different way.

(Patrick White)

Down the road (so to speak) is the village of Ganterschwil (population: 1,186).

It is first mentioned in 779 as “Cantrichesuilare“.

(Try saying that five times fast….)

Pfarrkirche von Ganterschwil

Above:  Parish church, Ganterschwil, Canton St. Gallen

Grain and oats were grown and processed in three mills here.

From the 18th century, contract weaving became important.

Small textile factories developed from family businesses.

In the 19th century, the livestock and dairy indutries replaced grain cultivation.

After the crash in the textile industry in 1918, only smaller companies could be built.

In 2000, around half of the working population was employed in the service sector.

Wappen von Ganterschwil

Above: Coat of arms of Ganterschwil

The Home for Socially Disadvantaged Children, founded in 1913 by Reformer Pastor Alfred Lauchener, developed into the Centre for Child and Adolescent Psychiatry Sonnenhof.

Klinik Sonnenhof Ganterschwil

Above: Centre for Child and Adolescent Psychiatry Sonnenhof, Ganterschwil

In Ganterschwil, there are many small businesses that offer jobs.

The best-known is the Berlinger Company, which was active in tape production.

Today it plays a leading role in the production of doping control systems, in the form of counterfeit-proof sample glasses.

Temperature Monitoring / Doping Control Equipment- Berlinger & Co. AG

In the parish church there are frescoes from the Middle Ages discovered and restored in 1941 and now under the protection of the Swiss Confederation.

Ganterschwil is a place difficult to define.

Is it the past?

The future?

What is it now?

The Beautiful Minds of Lichtensteig

Lichtensteig (population: 1,870) is first mentioned in 1228 and was founded by the Counts of Toggenburg as “Liehtunsteige“.

A market is mentioned in 1374 and the right to hold markets was confirmed in 1400.

A letter of privileges issued by the Lords of Raron (1439) confirms the existence of 12 burghers and the appointment of judges by the burghers and the Lords.

After the acquisition of the Toggenburg by St. Gallen Abbey in 1468, Lichtensteig became the seat of the Abbot’s reeve.

The council declared Lichtensteig’s support for the Reformation in 1528.

The sole church at this time was shared by both Reformed and Catholic believers, while their schools were kept separate until 1868.

Lichtensteig’s importance as a market town increased in the 19th century with the development of the textile home working industry in the Toggenburg.

In the early 20th century, there were six yearly markets and a weekly livestock market.

Lichtensteig’s connection to the railroad dates to 1870.

Lichtensteig

Above: Lichtensteig, Canton St. Gallen

I don’t quite know how to say this politely, so I will say it directly.

It seems the further south one travels in Deutschschweiz, the smarter people seem to be.

Thurgau is blood, sweat, tears and toil.

Thurgau is always in the middle of things, between two places but belonging to neither.

Wars of religion and between nations have been fought here for centuries.

Tourists do not linger in Thurgau but traverse it en route to places deemed more interesting.

This is farm country, a land of labour and pragmatism, where poets party in private homes but never parade themselves in political protest processions.

Coat of arms of Kanton Thurgau

Above: Coat of arms of Canton Thurgau

St. Gallen, both city and canton especially the City itself, bears the scent of incense, the stains on a faithful shroud, the remnants of religious rule.

Coat of arms of Kanton St. Gallen

Above: Coat of arms of Canton St. Gallen

St. Gallen is reminiscent of (Giovanni Bocaccio’s Decameron) Ceppello of Prato, who after a lifetime of evil, hoodwinks a holy friar with a deathbed confession and comes to be venerated as St. Ciappelletto, except in reverse with the holy friar hoodwinking the world into venerating it as holier than it could have been.

Decameron, The (unabridged) – Naxos AudioBooks

Granted that the St. Gallen Abbey Library is truly worthy of its UNESCO designation as “an outstanding example of a large Carolingian monastery and was, since the 8th century until its secularisation in 1805, one of the most important cultural centres in Europe”.

The library collection is the oldest in Switzerland, and one of earliest and most important monastic libraries in the world.

The library holds almost 160,000 volumes, with most available for public use.

In addition to older printed books, the collection includes 1,650 incunabula (books printed before 1500), and 2,100 manuscripts dating back to the 8th through 15th centuries – among the most notable of the latter are items of Irish, Carolingian, and Ottonian production.

These codices are held inside glass cases, each of which is topped by a carved cherub offering a visual clue as to the contents of the shelves below – for instance, the case of astronomy-related materials bears a cherub observing the books through a telescope.

Books published before 1900 are to be read in a special reading room.

The manuscript B of the Nibelungenlied (The Song of the Nibelungs, an epic poem written around 1200, the first heroic epic put into writing in Germany, helping to found a larger genre of written heroic poetry) is kept here.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey Library

Granted that the University of St. Gallen (“from insight to impact“) is, according to international rankings,  considered among the world’s leading business schools.

University of St. Gallen logo english.svg

But, my view of the city of St. Gallen is coloured by my experience, which has meant a working man’s life split between teaching at private schools similar to the cowboy outfit of Wil and formerly working as a Starbucks barista.

Neither side seems reflective of St. Gallen’s intellectual potential.

Above: Old houses, St. Gallen

(To be fair, people don’t actually hate places.

They hate their experiences of places.)

The two half-cantons of Appenzell Innerrhoden and Appenzell Ausserrhoden have, over time, perhaps without justification, become the butt of many a joke from the rest of Switzerland when one seeks a place to label as backwards.

Coat of arms of Appenzell

Above: Coat of arms of the half-cantons of Appenzell

To be fair to the comedians, Appenzell still has elections where folks line up in the town square to cast their votes by raising their arms to show their assent and it was the last place in the nation to give women the right to vote.

Farmers still lead their cattle in great processions through towns to Alpine pastures in springtime and back again when winter threatens.

As one travels from Thurgau south towards Ticino one senses a change in spirit.

Swiss cantons

Already we have encountered a village that fostered the growth of a Pulitzer Prize-deserving journalist and we have traversed towns of castles and artists, of epic tales and bridges over troubled waters.

But it is here in Lichtensteig where the air becomes rarified, where farmers think and plowmen wax poetic.

The time has come when scientific truth must cease to be the property of the few, when it must be woven into the common life of the world.” (Louis Agassiz)

Louis Agassiz H6.jpg

Above: Louis Agassiz (1807 – 1873)

Jost Bürgi (1552 – 1632) is probably the kind of man Agassiz had in mind.

Lichtensteiger Bürgi was a Swiss clockmaker, a maker of astronomical instruments and a mathematician.

Although an autodidact (he taught himself), Bürgi was already during his lifetime considered one of the most excellent mechanical engineers of his generation (think of a Da Vinci or an Edison).

Bürgi’s employer, William IV (1532 – 1592), the Landgrave of Hesse-Kessel, in a letter to Tycho Brahe (1542 – 1601)(Denmark’s greatest astronomer) praised Bürgi as “a second Archimedes” (287 – 212 BC).

The lunar crater Byrgius (the Latin form of Bürgi) is named in this Lichtensteiger’s honour.

Above: Portrait of Jost Bürgi

Another thinking man from Lichtensteig was Augustine Reding (1625 – 1692), a Benedictine, the Prince-Abbot of Einsiedeln Abbey and a respected theological writer.

At Einsiedeln, Reding organized the construction of the Abbey’s choir, confessional and the Chapel of St. Magdalena.

In 1675, Einsiedeln took charge of the college at Bellinzona, which was conducted by the monks of the Abbey until their suppression in 1852.

Reding watched carefully over discipline of Abbey affairs and insisted on a thorough intellectual training of his monks.

Above: Einsiedeln Cloister, Canton Schwyz

Lichtenberger Johann Ulrich Giezendanner (1686 – 1738) learned the profession of goldsmithing in Toggenburg.

Through his parish priest Niklaus Scherrer and his friend August Hermann Francke in Halle, Giezendanner began to practice pietism.

Giezendanner was banished from Toggenburg on suspicion of pietism, because he threatened the authorities with the criminal judgment of God.

His threats led to an investigation by a pietist commission set up by the Council, in which the secular side had the majority.

As a result, Giezendanner was expelled without a trial in 1710.

And so he went to Zürich.

In 1714, Giezendanner began studying theology at the University of Marburg, heard lectures from Johann Heinrich Hottinger (1681 – 1750) and worked as a teacher in the Marburg orphanage.

Because Giezendanner preached on his own initiative in Marburg, he was expelled from the state of Hesse.

Logo

After a short stay in Heidelberg, he returned to eastern Switzerland and began to hold secret meetings in Bottinghoffen near Scherzingen, less than 10 klicks (Canadian for kilometres) from my Landschlacht driveway.

Above: Bottighofen Harbour

As a representative of the radical pietism in German-speaking Switzerland, he returned to Zürich until he was expelled from there for his preaching.

On 29 June 1716, Giezendanner’s most memorable sermon of inspiration was given at the country estate of Johann Kaspar Schneeberger in Engstringen (just outside Zürich), in which Giezendanner said:

Hear now, my word, you stupid sticky clods of earth, where is your lie?

And so, hear, hear, heads of this place, you enter as gods and lords, but what kind of god you have for your rule, is it not with you all that you bring your belly to God?

With great arrogance to exclaim sins on the streets, when you walk on the streets, sin will take place and all of you will find it.

Unterengstringen, im Vordergrund das Kloster Fahr

Above: Engstringen, Canton Zürich

Unable to win friends and influence people in Switzerland, Giezendanner emigrated to America in 1734, working as a goldsmith in Charleston.

In 1736, he founded the first church of Toggenburger, Rhine Valley and Appenzell pietists in South Carolina’s Orangeburg County.

Above: Historic houses, Charleston, South Carolina, USA

It is a pity that those trained in the uncertainties of faith couldn’t be made responsible for the training of those who lead nations.

Perhaps a rigorous examination of our leaders’ intellectual and moral training might prevent the rise of demagogues and populists whose only qualification for power is their desire to dominate others.

Another man whose mind was a beautiful thing to behold was Max Rychner.

Max Rychner (1897 – 1965) was a writer, journalist, translator and literary critic.

Hannah Arendt (1906 – 1975), widely considered to be one of the most important political philosophers of the 20th century, called Rychner “one of the most educated and subtle figures in the intellectual life of the era“.

Rychner is considered, among other things, to be the discoverer of the poet Paul Celan (1920 – 1970), the publisher of the memoirs of Walter Benjamin (1892 – 1940), the editor-translator of philosopher-poet Paul Valéry (1871 – 1945), as well as being himself a poet, novelist and essayist.

Rychner is best known for:

  • Freundeswort (Word of a friend)
  • Die Ersten: Ein Epyllion (The first: an epyllion)(not sure what an epyllion is)
  • Unter anderem zur europäischen Literatur zwischen zwei Weltkriegen (On European literature between two world wars)
  • Arachne
  • Bedelte und testierte Welt (Affirmed and certified world)

Bei mir laufen Fäden zusammen - Max Rychner | Wallstein Verlag

According to Wikipedia, Rycher’s “method of literary admiration, based on hermeneutic models, raised formal aesthetic criteria far beyond questions of content and meaning.”

I have no idea of what that means, but it sure sounds impressive.

An incomplete sphere made of large, white, jigsaw puzzle pieces. Each puzzle piece contains one glyph from a different writing system, with each glyph written in black.

Wikivoyage (German version only) recommends Lichtensteig for:

  • the alleys and houses in the old quarter of the town

  • the Toggenburger Museum (Sundays 1 – 5 pm)

  • Fredy’s Mechanical Music Museum (last weekend of the months April to December at 3 pm / guided tours only / five-person minimum / CHF 14 per person)

Fredy's Mechanical Music Museum | Switzerland Tourism

  • Erlebniswelt Toggenburg (Adventure World Toggenburg)(Wednesdays and weekends: 1030 to 1630)

(It’s a small world, after all.)

Erlebniswelt Toggenburg - BESUCHER

  • Various sports facilities, including a climbing wall and an outdoor pool
  • the Thurweg which wends through the town

Datei:Thurweg..jpg

  • Jazz Days, with international jazz greats, annually

Jazztage Lichtensteig | Erlebnisregion Ostschweiz & Bodensee

Travel as a Political Act

Now you may be wondering why I bother telling you all of this, explaining in painful prose what lies beneath the surface of places.

Travel guide writer Rick Steves said it best:

Travel connects people with people.

It helps us fit more comfortably and compatibly into a shrinking world.

It inspires creative new solutions to persistent problems facing our nation.

We can’t understand our world without experiencing it.

There is more to travel than good-value hotels, great art and tasty cuisine.

Travel as a political act means the Traveller can have the time of his life and come home smarter – with a better understanding of the interconnectedness of today’s world and just how we fit in.”

Travel as a Political Act (Rick Steves): Steves, Rick ...

Steves sees the travel writer of the 21st century like a court jester of the Middle Ages.

Rick Steves cropped.jpg

Above: Rick Steves

While thought of as a comedian, the jester was in a unique position to tell truth to power without being punished.

Back then, kings were absolute rulers – detached from the lives of their subjects.

The court jester’s job was to mix it up with people that the King would never meet.

The jester would play in the gutter with the riffraff.

Then, having fingered the gritty pulse of society, the true lifeblood of the Kingdom, the jester would come back into the court and tell the King the truth.

Above: “Keying Up” – The Court Jester, by William Merritt Chase, 1875.

Your Highness, the people are angered by the cost of mead. 

They are offended by the Queen’s parties. 

The Pope has more influence than you. 

Everybody is reading the heretics’ pamphlets. 

Your stutter is the butt of many rude jokes.

Is there not a parallel here between America and this Kingdom?

Comedians like Seth Meyers, Stephen Colbert and Trevor Noah are listened to more by the average American than the actual news these comedians parody.

For these jesters of 21st century television know the pulse of the nation far more accurately than do the mandarins of power in Washington.

Seth Meyers by Gage Skidmore.jpg

Above: Seth Meyers

Stephen Colbert December 2019.jpg

Above: Stephen Colbert

Trevor Noah 2017.jpg

Above: Trevor Noah

Trump is the butt of many rude jokes, because he deserves to be.

Trump has leaders from around the world openly laughing at him at ...

Meyers, Colbert and Noah are graffiti writers on the walls of sacred institutions, watching rich riffraff ride roughshod over the rest of those whose sole hopes from the gutter is that their only direction from their perspective is up.

File:Who Watches the Watchmen.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

In the Kingdom, the King did not kill the jester.

In order to rule more wisely, the King needed the jester’s insights.

In America, the President would love to kill his critics.

He is not interested in ruling wisely, only perpetually.

Official Keep America Great 45th President Hat – Trump Make ...

Many of today’s elected leaders have no better connection with real people (especially beyond their borders) than those divinely ordained monarchs did centuries ago.

Any Traveller, including your humble blogger and you my patient readers, can play jester in your own communities.

Sometimes a jackass won’t move unless a gesturing mosquito is biting its behind.

Mosquito 2007-2.jpg

Consider countries like El Salvador (where people don’t dream of having two cars in every garage) or Denmark (where they pay high taxes with high expectations and are satisfied doing so) or Iran (where many compromise their freedom for their fidelity to their faith).

Travellers can bring back valuable insights and, just like those insights were needed in the Middle Ages, this understanding is desperately needed in our age of anxiety.

Ideally, travel broadens our perspectives personally, culturally and politically.

Suddenly, the palette with which we paint the parameters of our personalities has more colour, more vibrancy.

We realize that there are exciting alternatives to the social and community norms that our less-travelled neighbours may never consider.

It is like discovering there are other delicacies off the menu, that there is more than one genre of music available on the radio, that there is an upstairs alcove above the library yet to be discovered, that you haven’t yet tasted all 31 flavours.

1970s Baskin Robbins 31 Flavors Ice Cream logo

That there are more things in Heaven and Earth than are dreamt of in your philosophy.

I will never be against tourists who travel to escape their workaday lives and simply wish to relax in as uncomplicated a fashion as humanly possible.

Sometimes this is needed.

Kokomo song cover.jpg

No, I am referring to Travellers who travel with a purpose on purpose.

People who try to connect with other people.

People who take history seriously.

Yesterday’s history informs today’s news, which becomes all our tomorrows.

Those with a knowledge (or at least a curiosity) of history can understand current events in a broader context and respond to them more thoughtfully.

As you travel, opportunities to enjoy history are everywhere.

Work on cultivating a general grasp of the sweep of history and you will be able to infuse your travels with more meaning.

Even if, in this time of corona, our travels are local.

Above: History by Frederick Dielman (1896)

I digress.

The Warriors of Wattwil

The long and winding road leads us to Wattwil (population: 8,740), first documented in 897 as “Wattinurlare” (which sounds exotic but only means “Watto’s village“).

Wattwil Gesamtansicht Yburg.jpg

Above: Wattwil, Canton St. Gallen

Around 1230, Heinrich von Iberg had Iberg Castle built here.

It was destroyed during the Appenzell Wars (1401 – 1429) and rebuilt.

It served as the seat of the bailiffs until 1805.

Above: Iberg Castle, Wattwil

In 1468, the entire Toggenburg County (the last Toggenburg Count, Friedrich VII died without heirs) was bought by St. Gallen Abbey.

The Pfaffenweise (place of assembly) (today a cemetery) served as a community and war gathering point and as a place to demonstrate hommage to the Prince-Abbots of St. Gallen.

Above: Wattwil station

In 1529, Pastor Mauriz Miles from Lichtensteig introduced the Reformation to Wattwil.

The population, which supported the religious innovations by a large majority, was able to prevail against the Catholic abbots.

Catholic Services were only reintroduced in 1593.

The Wattwil church was used by both faiths until a new Catholic church was built in 1968.

Above: Wattwil Reformed Church

Above: Wattwil Catholic Church

In 1621, the Capuchin Convent of St. Mary the Angel was built on the slope called the Wenkenürti (I have no idea what this translates to.) after a devastating fire at their previous location on Pfanneregg (a hill where the Vitaparcours – think “outdoor gym path” – is practiced).

The Convent is an excellently preserved complex with a highly baroque church.

Sadly, the Sisters left the monastery in 2010.

Above: St. Mary the Angel Convent

In the 17th century, St. Gallen Abbey wanted to expand the road known as Karrenweg via Rickenpass, in order to ensure a better connection between St. Gallen and Catholic Central Switzerland.

The majority of the Reformed Wattwil populace refused to work on it or contribute to it, tirggering the Toggenburg Turmoil (1699 – 1712), which led to the Second Villmerger War of 1712.

The road was only realized in 1786.

Wattwil’s traditional linen weaving mill was replaced by a cotton factory in 1750.

In the 19th century, more than a dozen companies started operating in the town.

In 1881, the Toggenburg weaving school was founded, from which the Swiss Textile Technical School later emerged.

The spirit of intelligence, the thirst for knowledge, the expression of wisdom can also be found in Wattwil.

Ulrich Bräker (1735 – 1798) was an autodidact, writer and diarist, known for his autobiography, widely received at the time as the voice of an unspoiled “natural man” of the lower classes, based on the title which Bräker became known “der arme Mann im Toggenburg” (the poor man of Toggenburg).

Bräker was born the oldest of eight siblings.

Above: Bräker’s birth house in Näppis near Wattwil

Bräker was educated in literacy and basic arithmetic during ten weeks each winter, working as a goatherd for the rest of the year.

In 1754, the family moved to Wattwil, where Bräker worked various jobs.

In 1755, he entered the service of a Prussian recruiting officer.

Against Bräker’s wishes, he was pressed into military duty in the 13th infantry regiment of the Prussian army in 1756, but he managed to escape later that same year in the midst of the Battle of Lobositz.

War Ensign of Prussia (1816).svg

Above: War flag of Prussia

Returning to his native Toggenburg, Bräker married Salome Ambühl (1735 – 1822) of Wattwil in 1761 and had several children.

Bräker built a house “auf der Hochsteig” (on the high slope) outside of Wattwil and traded in cotton for the local home industry.

Above: Bräker’s house auf der Hochsteig, contemporary drawing (c. 1794; the house was destroyed in 1836)

He began writing a diary.

Der arme Mann im Tockenburg - Ulrich Bräker - Buch kaufen | Ex Libris

Bräker’s writing talent was discovered by local writer and intellectual Johann Ludwig Ambühl.

Bräker published some texts in Ambühl’s Brieftasche aus den Alpen (Letter Bag from the Alps).

Bräker’s writing is based on the pietistic outlook and reflects familiarity with the Bible as well as a keen observation of nature and an enthusiastic interest in the translated works of Shakespeare.

9781166984809: Die Brieftasche Aus Den Alpen (1780) (German ...

Bräker’s diary is a touching human document containing Lebensweisheit (pearls of pure pramatic wisdom).

Sämtliche Schriften, 5 Bde., Bd.1, Tagebücher 1768-1778: Amazon.de ...

Bräker lived to see, and was perturbed by, the French invasion of Switzerland in the spring of 1798.

He died in September that same year.

Johann Ludwig Ambühl (1750 – 1800) was a civil servant and a writer – much like my aforementioned Canadian friend at the beginning of this post.

Ambühl was the son of the schoolmaster of Wattwil, Hans Jacob Ambühl (1699 – 1773).

At the age of 23, Johann became his father’s successor in 1733, for he had helped Hans, increasingly blind, with seven hours of instruction every day since he was 12.

In his free time, Johann mainly devoted himself to studying geometry, music, reading, drawing and collecting natural objects.

In Wattwil, Ambühl was considered a Stölzling (nerd), because of his always strict and serious appearance in public.

9781120610225: Die Brieftasche Aus Den Alpen (1780) (German ...

In 1783, on the recommendation of Gregorius Grob, Ambühl was hired as a court master by the rich Rheineck merchant Jacob Laurenz Custer.

In this function, he accompanied one of his students to Strasbourg in 1786, to Geneva (1788 – 1789) and in 1790 on a study trip through Italy.

The majority of Ambühl’s literary work consists of plays of extremely patriotic content.

It was like sawdust, the unhappiness.

It infiltrated everything.

Everything was a problem, everything made her cry….but it was so hard to say exactly what the problem was in the first place.” 

(Melanie Thernstrom, The Dead Girl)

The Dead Girl by Melanie Thernstrom

Hans Adolf Pestalozzi (1929 – 2004) was a social critic of late 20th century capitalism, which eventually led to his becoming a bestselling author.

Hans A Pestalozzi - Alchetron, The Free Social Encyclopedia

Born in Zürich, Pestalozzi, after his studies at the University of St. Gallen, started working for Migros.

Logo

In the 1960s he built up the Gottlieb Duttweiler Institut, a think tank named ater the Migros founder, in Rüschlikon (on Lake Zürich).

The Institute was established to investigate the range of possible shortcomings and negative effects of capitalism, in particular within Western consumer society, so that they could be combated more effectively.

Pestalozzi fulfilled that task very thoroughly, too thoroughly, especially in his lectures, so much so that in 1977 he was fired by Migros.

Rather than looking for a new job, he became a freelance writer and self-proclaimed “autonomous agitator” who sided with the fledging European youth, peace and ecological movements.

He preached “positive subversion” and tried to convince people that using their own intelligence was the right thing to do.

HANS A. PESTALOZZI | Autor, Positiv

Above: Pestalozzi (centre), After us the future, from positive subversion (left) and Off the trees of the apes (right)

Moreover, Pestalozzi demanded a guaranteed minimum income for everybody.

Pestalozzi died a recluse by suicide in his home near Wattwil.

Einsamer Tod eines wirtschaftskritischen Managers

Wikivoyage recommends the Cloister, the Castle and the Kubli Church in Wattwil.

The current Wikivoyage logo

The Wattwil area is great for hiking and mountain biking.

And somewhere down the highway….

The Afterglow of Ebnat- Kappel

Perhaps the easiest way of making a town’s acquaintance is to ascertain how the people in it work, how they love and how they die. 

In our little town (is this, one wonders, an effect of the climate?) all three are done on much the same lines, with the same feverish yet casual air. 

The truth is that everyone is bored and devotes himself to cultivating habits.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

The Plague (1992 film).jpg

Ebnat-Kappel (population: 5,031) was first mentioned in 1218 as “Capelle“.

On 26 July 1854, a fire almost completely destroyed the village.

In 1847, Johann Gerhard Oncken founded the first Swiss Baptist church here in E-K.

Ebnat-Kappel Vilagxo kun preghejo 611.jpg

People visit Ebnat-Kappel primarily to ski or to follow the 60-kilometre Thurweg.

Worth viewing are:

  • the Reformed Church in the centre of Ebnat along with the church hall with its front tower

  • the Steinfels House (a Gothic building with Baroque decor)

  • the Ackerhaus (built for Albert Edelmann who donated the house to serve as the local museum)

Museum Hauskultur Toggenburg Ackerhaus, Ebnat-Kappel

  • Typical wooden Toggenburg houses preserved in nearby Eich

Bäuerliches Toggenburger Haus in Ebnat-Kappel Foto & Bild ...

  • the Felsenstein House in Kappel with Gothic windows and cross-vaulted rooms
  • the willow wood figures near the station depicting a chapel and an unicorn

Wappen von Ebnat-Kappel

Above: Coat of arms of Ebnat – Kappel

  • the Sinnepark (a sensory park) just south of the village

Der Sinnepark - Verkehrsverein Ebnat-Kappel

Above: Ebnat-Kappel station

Notable people of Ebnat-Kappel are:

  • Albert Edelmann (1886 – 1963) was a teacher, painter and sponsor of local folk and cultural assets.

His Ackerhaus museum shows objects of Toggenburg culture from four centuries.

In addition to household items and equipment from the Toggenburg, the collection contains rural paintings, pictures by Babeli Giezendammer and other painters, seven house organs and neck zithers.

By the end of the 19th century, the neck zither game in Toggenburg was forgotten.

Thanks to Edelmann this tradition was revived.

There is a room dedicated to the Biedermeier period (1815 – 1848) in Toggenburg.

Edelmann’s former studio shows his CV and his work.

While the Museum offers encounters with the past, the culture of Now is everpresent.

Above: Albert Edelmann

I enjoy decoration. 

By accumulating this mass of detail you throw light on things in a longer sense. 

In the long run it all adds up. 

It creates a texture – how shall I put it – a background, a period, which makes everything you write that much more convincing. 

Of course, all artists are terrible egoists. 

Unconsciously you are largely writing about yourself. 

I could never write anything factual. 

I only have confidence in myself when I am another character. 

All the characters in my books are myself, but they are a kind of disguise.

(Patrick White)

  • Babeli Giezendanner (1831 – 1905) was a painter, representative of Appenzeller / Toggenburger peasant painting.

She was born the third of nine children.

In 1861, she married master shoemaker Ulrich Remisegger.

In 1873, he died in an accident.

As a widow with three children, Babeli supported her family through weaving, drawing and painting.

In 1904, she moved to the Hemberg poorhouse and lived there until she died in her 74th year.

Possibly all art flowers more readily in silence. 

Certainly the state of simplicity and humility is the only desirable one for artist or for man. 

While to reach it may be impossible, to attempt to do so is imperative.

(Patrick White)

Babeli Giezendanner learned to draw from her father, which meant that she had a good knowledge of perspective drawing that characterizes her work.

Furthermore, she worked temporarily in Lichtensteig for the lithographer Johan Georg Schmied.

Stylistic relationships to the work of the Swiss peasant painter Johannes Müller from Stein (AR) can be proven.

He may have been one of her role models.

The artist’s oeuvre is diverse and extensive, the inventory includes around 100 works.

They include the depiction of houses and villages, alpine lifts and cattle shows.

She created numerous livery paintings and memorial sheets for birth, baptism, wedding and death.

For commemorative albums, she painted pictures and wrote poems.

The painting of umbrellas and dials of clocks has been handed down in the vernacular, but cannot be proven.

Today, many of her paintings and drawings are exhibited in the Toggenburg Museum in Lichtensteig and in the Museum Ackerhus in Ebnat-Kappel.

Very early in my life it was too late.

(Marguerite Duras, The Lover)

OnFiction: Marguerite Duras The Lover

I start to get the feeling that something is really wrong.

Like all the drugs put together – the lithium, the Prozac, the desipramine and the Desyrel that I take to sleep at night – can no longer combat whatever it is that was wrong with me in the first place. 

I feel like a defective model, like I came off the assembly line flat-out f….d and my parents should have taken me back for repairs before the warranty ran out. 

But that was so long ago.

I start to think there really is no cure for depression, that happiness is an ongoing battle, and I wonder if it isn’t one I’ll have to fight for as long as I live. 

I wonder if it’s worth it.

I start to feel like I can’t maintain the facade any longer, that I may just start to show through. 

And I wish I knew what was wrong.

Maybe something about how stupid my whole life is.

I don’t know.

(Elizabeth Wurzel, Prozac Nation)

Prozac Nation film.jpg

  • Guido Looser (1892 – 1937) was a writer.

Looser attended high school in Zürich and then studied history, German and geography at universities in Zürich and Berlin.

He then worked as a teacher in Zürich.

From 1922, he suffered increasingly from depression which led to long hospital stays in Kreuzlingen and Oetiwil.

In 1937, Looser committed suicide, given the impossibility of continuing to fund adequate hospitalization.

Guido Looser

Looser wrote novels, essays and poems, strongly influenced by his psychological suffering and revolving around illness, melancholy and death.

Looser is known for:

  • Nachglanz (Afterglow)
  • Josuas Hingabe (Joshua’s dedication)
  • Die Würde (Dignity)
  • Nur nie jemandem sagen, wohin man reist (Just never tell anyone where you are going)

Nur nie jemandem sagen, wohin man reist. Prosa - Guido Looser ...

“You only live twice: once when you are born and once when you look death in the face.”

(Ian Fleming)

Above: Ian Fleming (1908 – 1964)

Bridges over troubled waters

Bridge Over Troubled Water single.jpg

When I think of all the things he did because he loved me – what people visit on each other out of something like love. 

It is enough for all the world’s woe. 

You don’t need hate to have a perfectly miserable time.

(Richard Bausch, Mr. Field’s Daughter)

Mr. Field's Daughter: Bausch, Richard: 9780671640514: Amazon.com ...

Stein (population: 1,429) has a few sites worth viewing:

In the village centre, the 18th century church and the Appenzeller Folklore Museum with, among other things, looms and embroidery machines from the 19th century.

Wappen von Stein

Above: Coat of arms, Stein, Canton Appenzell

Between the hamlet of Störgel and the St. Gallen suburb of Haggen lies the Haggen Bridge, the highest pedestrian footbridge in Europe, which spans the 355-metre wide gorge of the Sitter at a height of 99 metres.

The structure called “Ganggelibrugg” (wobbly bridge) was actually planned for traffic between Stein and St. Gallen, but due to serious structural defects it could never be handed over to its intended purpose.

For a long time it was the most used bridge for suicide in Switzerland.

Since 2010, the bridge has been secured with nets that help prevent such tragedies.

Nearby are the Kubelbrücke (the Talking Bridge, a covered wooden bridge over the Urnäsch River in the hamlet of Kubel), the Abtebrücke (the Abbey Bridge, a covered wooden bridge over the River Sitter in the hamlet of Kubel, built by the St. Gallen Monastery) and the Hüsli covered wooden bridges across the Sitter and the Wattbach beneath the Ganggelibrugg in the hamlets of Blatten and Zweibruggen.

Also worth visiting in Stein is the Appenzeller Show Dairy, where you can watch the production of Appenzeller cheese.

(Open: 0900 – 1800 / Guided tours: Wednesday and Sundays, 1400 and 1700)

Everybody is interested (or should be) in Switzerland.

No other country in Europe offers a richer return to the Traveller for his time and effort.

To revisit Switzerland is for the old to renew one’s youth, while for the young it is to gain a lifelong sense of the inspiring grandeurs of this wonderworld.

Above: The Matterhorn

The Traveller goes to Switzerland chiefly to look at mountains, the Swiss Alps are as effectively displayed as the treasures in a well-arranged museum, but the mountains are not the only things in Switzerland.

There are the towns and cities and the people, those admirable Swiss people, who have made their land in many respects the model country of the world.

Above: Lake Lucerne, view from Pilatus

(If you are not sure about this, just ask the Swiss.)

Coat of arms of Switzerland

The sad thing is that while Switzerland may be the playground of Europe, it is not the playground of the Swiss.

Switzerland is their workshop, where they toil at many industries and practice many useful arts of which the outside world knows little.

The world knows of music boxes, cheese and watches and that the Swiss are born hotel keepers with comfort and courtesy as their watchwords.

Non-Swiss tend to dismiss Switzerland as an irrelevance in the broader sweep of European history.

Because the country is peaceful today, the assumption is that it has always been somehow inherently tranquil, but this is an illusion.

Until the middle of the 19th century, Switzerland was the most unstable country in Europe.

The Alpine calm of today came at the price of a millennium of war.

The Swiss may no longer be an offensive force, but they are defensively armed to the teeth.

The Reformation, which began in Germany in the early 16th century, was sparked in Switzerland by a native of the next town down the road….

Above: Map of the Old Swiss Confederacy 1536 showing the religious division

Within a few days I will go to the Papal Legate [Pucci], and if he shall open a conversation on the subject as he did before, I will urge him to warn the Pope not to issue an excommunication [against Luther], for which I think would be greatly against him [the Pope].

For if it be issued I believe the Germans will equally despise the Pope and the excommunication.

But do you be of good cheer, for our day will not lack those who will teach Christ faithfully, and who will give up their lives for Him willingly, even though among men their names shall not be in good repute after this life…

So far as I am concerned I look for all evil from all of them: I mean both ecclesiastics and laymen.

I beseech Christ for this one thing only, that He will enable me to endure all things courageously, and that He break me as a potter’s vessel or make me strong, as it pleased Him.

If I be excommunicated I shall think of the learned and holy Hilary, who was exiled from France to Africa, and of Lucius, who though driven from his seat at Rome returned again with great honour.

Not that I compare myself with them: for as they were better than I so they suffered what was a greater ignominy.

And yet if it were good to flourish I would rejoice to suffer insult for the name of Christ.

But let him that thinketh he standeth take heed lest he fall.

Lately I have read scarcely any thing of Luther’s, but what I have seen of his hitherto does not seem to me to stray from gospel teaching.

You know – if you remember – that what I have always spoken of in terms of the highest commendation in him is that he supports his position with authoritative witness.”

(Huldrych Zwingli)

Ulrich-Zwingli-1.jpg

Above: Portrait of Ulrich Zwingli (1484 – 1531)

Swiss city after city overthrew ecclesiastical overlords in favour of the new Protestantism, with city authorities gaining new power over the countryside in the process.

Zwingli’s attempts in 1531 to reorganize the Confederation under the urban leadership of Zürich and Bern led to armed conflict and the eventual loss of his life in battle.

The Reformation continued to spread, with Geneva – at the time not Swiss – emerging as a major centre for Protestantism, thanks to the zealotry of French priest and Reformer Jean Calvin.

Increasingly the Catholic cantons nurtured an inferiority complex towards the Protestant cities, which held a grip on political authority.

Above: Religious division of the Old Confederacy during the 17th and 18th century

Only shared economic interests keep the Swiss Confederation together.

I have mentioned the textile industry as crucial to the towns we passed through, for it was textiles, among other industries, where merchants in the cities (generally Protestant) supplied raw materials to peasants in the countryside (generally Catholic) who worked up finished products and returned them for trading on.

Wildhaus (population: 1,205) is first mentioned in 1344 as “Wildenhuss“.

In addition to tourism, agriculture and forestry from the economic focus.

The birthplace of the Reformer Huldrych Zwingli, built in 1449, is one of the oldest wooden houses in Switzerland.

(For more on Zwingli and travels following his life, please see:

Canada Slim… 

  • and the Road to Reformation
  • and the Wild Child of Toggenburg
  • and the Thundering Hollows
  • and the Battle for Switzerland’s Soul
  • and the Monks of the Dark Forest
  • and the Battlefield Brotherhood
  • and the Lakeside Pilgrimage

….of my other blog, The Chronicles of Canada Slim at https://canadaslim.wordpress.com.)

Wildhaus is both a summer and winter sports resort.

Two chair lifts and several ski lifts lead to the Gamsalp and the Gamserrugg.

The Obertoggenburg and the Churfirsten ski area, which Wildhaus operated together with Unterwasser and Alt St. Johann until separated by the Cablecar Conflict of 2019.

The 87-kilometre Toggenburger Höhenweg begins in Wildhaus and ends in Will, as does the 60-kilometre long Thurweg.

Wildhaus SG

Above: Wildhaus, Canton St. Gallen

Wildhaus is a place my wife and I have together and apart have repeatedly visited.

I have followed both the Höhenweg and the Thurweg from start to finish.

We have driven to and through Wildhaus.

On this trip we do not tarry but continue swiftly onwards.

Coat of arms of Wildhaus

Above: Coat of arms of Wildhaus

What follows is a place so seductive that an afternoon seems to stand still….

(To be continued….)

Wildhaus SG

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Wikiquote / Wikivoyage / Giovanni Boccaccio, The Decameron / Albert Camus, The Plague / Humphrey Carpenter, The Inklings / Albert M. Debrunner, Literaturführer Thurgau / Rick Steves, Travel as a Political Act / Elizabeth Wurzel, Prozac Nation / Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows

The Fischingen Fishing Expedition

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Tuesday 2 June 2020

I am falling behind.

 

The Tortoise and the Hare — Steemit

 

This is a constant complaint towards me from my younger, more efficient, healthier wife.

It is said whenever we take hikes together.

It is said whenever I procrastinate doing the things she thinks that I should have already done.

Certainly when it comes to blogging this is a legitimate thing to say, but in my sad and sorry defence there is so much to write about and often so little time to write that it is no wonder why I am not faster than I am.

 

In Defence of Sadness | Advokat Dyavola

 

I have posted about my 14 May visits to Winterthur’s Fotomuseum and Gewerbemuseum, but nothing about what has happened since.

 

Exterior view of Fotomuseum Winterthur.jpg

Gewerbemuseum Winterthur – Wikipedia
Life, or what passes for it in these corona times, is slowly returning to a semblance of normalcy here in Switzerland.
Flag of Switzerland - Wikipedia
After months of distance learning, Grades 1 to 9 students have returned to classes.
Some museums have reopened.
The borders are partially reopened to those with family across the border and flights out of Switzerland should start to some destinations in June, though they will probably for some time fly empty or half-occupied.
Fleet | Our best arguments | SWISS
Libraries are open but not for lingering.
Cafes and gyms are open but only at half capacity.
Many restaurants are takeaway only.
People want to go out again': fine dining returns to Switzerland ...
Canton and federal parliaments meet but in large convention settings rather than cramped legislative halls.
Theatres and cinemas are impatient to reopen.
Every public place offers disinfecting liquid and yellow tape indicates social distancing parameters.
Swiss Banks Eye Up Return to Offices
Protests and demonstrations, concerts and clubs are still forbidden making it tough to be young in the time of Corona.
Couples are fined for PDA and brothels are fined.
Drive-in sex stalls get Swiss green light - The Local
Meanwhile “experts” question the entire concept of the lockdown and the seriousness of the pandemic.
Economists cry, but shop owners are surprised that they are doing better than they thought they would.
Some remind us that the corona virus has hit the Swiss economy very hard with a loss of CHF 70 billion.
Swiss Franc Is Best Bet in History of Fed Easing, JPMorgan Says ...
Meanwhile, we are asked to break the chain of infection by requesting a contact tracing app to be added to our phones.
We are told that the corona crisis has not yet been overcome, even if some measures were eased a fortnight ago.
UPDATE: This is how Switzerland's coronavirus tracking app will ...
Every nation not under total lockdown is encouraging the people to explore home first.
Discover Switzerland - Home | Facebook
Meanwhile life in other aspects never stopped.
Folks in Kreuzlingen complain about the construction of a 5G tower by the lake, dolphins have returned to the Bosphorus and politicians still remain stupidly unaware of how to help the people they claim to represent.
Biden blunders and Trump thunders and the world wonders and pities a people too slow to react and too quick to panic in the presence of a pandemic.
Science is viewed sceptically by the powerful and denied by the damning rural folks still foolishly following Trump like lemmings over a cliff.
What is the evolutionary basis of lemmings running to the sea? - Quora
Everybody knows that this new world needs new leadership and still we elect old leaders with no new ideas at all.
Leonard Cohen: Everybody Knows: Kubernik, Harvey: 9781480386280 ...
Everybody knows we need to boost world cooperation to beat the virus and everybody knows that a new battle front is beginning:
What is known and who will find the cure first?
Greatest Hits (The Cure album) - Wikipedia
The world will travel again and yet there is no escape from the ignorance of our heritage that binds us to our homes.
This Is What Life Is Like For A Chained Dog
Shanghai Disneyland opens and Italian beaches want to.
While hospitals cry for funding, the King of Thailand and his harem live the life of Riley in Bavaria.
A hardcore Hungarian pornographer in Rorschach is punished, while Australian soap operas have to show romance without actually touching one another.
Neighbours Statistics on Twitter followers | Socialbakers
Everybody knows that opening the US economy too soon could backfire badly.
Everyone says that a crisis should not stifle oversight nor remove responsibility.
Some suggest that the virus is cover for deportations, that refugees and children are the targets of summary border expulsions in America.
Nobody with power cares.
At the White House, the Lights Were Off
The Trump Administration says the US is leading the virus fight.
No one believes this fairy tale.
Grimms' Fairy Tales (Puffin Classics): Brothers Grimm, Grimm ...
Everyone sees that the blame game does little to cure the pandemic, that in fact it was the lack of international cooperation that led us to the crisis in which we find ourselves.
The “adults” in the international political community should diffuse the abuse and bullying over the origin of Covid-19 and work together to not only resolve this global problem but as well work in conjunction with one another to prevent future problems.
Everybody knows that there are no adults in the room.
Blog Post #3 – annemariebarton
Finally, the world’s greatest con artist has finally come up against a foe he can’t fool.
The world’s most obvious bully has finally met an enemy he cannot intimidate.
Back To The Future character Biff Tannen was inspired by Donald Trump
There are untold losses in Latin America with death rates that rival the highest rates in Europe and sadly these countries have far fewer options, for so little news seems worthy of our media’s attention.
Somehow, “live and let die” a song appropriate to the times.
No. 38: Paul McCartney, 'Live and Let Die' – Top 100 Classic Rock ...
What grabs my attention on 14 May, besides all that I mentioned in the past two posts, is the significance of this day – outside of it being my birthday, as well as the birthday of Eoin Colfer (Artemis Fowl series)(1965), Cate Blanchett (1969), Mark Zuckerberg (1984) and Facebook friends Colleen Campbell and Lexy Crosby –  it is the feast day of Saints Victor and Corona.
Colfer at BookExpo in 2019
Above: Eoin Colfer
Victor was a Roman soldier who was tortured and killed.
Corona (also known as Stephanie) was killed for comforting him.
Corona is venerated in connection with treasure hunting.
SaintsVictor and Corona.JPG
Meanwhile, the jukebox in my mind hears Alannis Morissette sing:
Isn’t it ironic, don’t you think?
Alanis Morissette - Ironic [FR Import] - Amazon.com Music
What also grabs my attention in my amateur history studies is that on this day in 1925, Virginia Woolf’s novel Mrs. Dalloway was published.
Mrs. Dalloway cover.jpg

 

 

Mrs Dalloway (published on 14 May 1925) is a novel by Virginia Woolf that details a day in the life of Clarissa Dalloway, a fictional high-society woman in post–First World War England.

It is one of Woolf’s best-known novels.

 

 

Photograph of Virginia Woolf in 1902; photograph by George Charles Beresford

Above: Virginia Woolf (1882 – 1941)

 

Created from two short stories, “Mrs Dalloway in Bond Street” and the unfinished “The Prime Minister“, the novel addresses Clarissa’s preparations for a party she will host that evening.

With an interior perspective, the story travels forward and back in time and in and out of the characters’ minds to construct an image of Clarissa’s life and of the inter-war social structure.

In October 2005, Mrs Dalloway was included on Times list of the 100 best English-language novels written since Time debuted in 1923.

 

 

 

Mrs Dalloway - Virginia Woolf - Englische Bücher kaufen | Ex Libris

 

In Mrs Dalloway, all of the action, aside from the flashbacks, takes place on a day in “the middle of June” of 1923.

It is an example of stream of consciousness storytelling:

Every scene closely tracks the momentary thoughts of a particular character.

Woolf blurs the distinction between direct and indirect speech throughout the novel, freely alternating her mode of narration between omniscient description, indirect interior monologue and soliloquy.

The narration follows at least twenty characters in this way, but the bulk of the novel is spent with main characters Clarissa Dalloway and Septimus Smith.

 

 

Mrs Dalloway (film).jpg

 

Because of structural and stylistic similarities, Mrs Dalloway is commonly thought to be a response to James Joyce’s Ulysses, a text that is often considered one of the greatest novels of the 20th century (though Woolf herself, writing in 1928, denied any deliberate “method” to the book, saying instead that the structure came about “without any conscious direction“.

 

 

JoyceUlysses2.jpg

 

In her essay “Modern Fiction“, Woolf praised Ulysses, saying, “on a first reading at any rate, it is difficult not to acclaim a masterpiece.”

At the same time, Woolf’s personal writings throughout her reading of Ulysses are abundant in criticisms.

While in the initial reading process, she recorded the following response to the aforementioned passages,

 

I have been amused, stimulated, charmed interested by the first two or three chapters and then puzzled, bored, irritated and disillusioned as by a queasy undergraduate scratching his pimples.

And Tom (T.S. Eliot), great Tom, thinks this on a par with “War and Peace”!

An illiterate, underbred book it seems to me: the book of a self-taught working man, and we all know how distressing they are, how egotistic, insistent, raw, striking and ultimately nauseating.

When one can have cooked flesh, why have the raw?

But I think if you are anaemic as Tom is, there is glory in blood.

Being fairly normal myself I am soon ready for the classics again.

I may revise this later.

I do not compromise my critical sagacity.

 

Eliot in 1934 by Lady Ottoline Morrell

Above: Thomas Stearns Eliot (1888 – 1965)

 

Tolstoy - War and Peace - first edition, 1869.jpg

Above: War and Peace first edition cover

 

Woolf’s distaste for Joyce’s work only solidified after she completed reading it.

 

Left profile photograph of bearded Joyce

Above: James Joyce (1882 – 1941)

 

She summed up her thoughts on the work as a whole:

 

I finished “Ulysses” and think it is a misfire.

Genius it has, I think, but of the inferior water.

The book is diffuse.

It is brackish.

It is pretentious.

It is underbred, not only in the obvious sense, but in the literary sense.

A first rate writer, I mean, respects writing too much to be tricky, startling, doing stunts.

I’m reminded all the time of some callow board schoolboy, say like Henry Lamb, full of wits and powers, but so self-conscious and egotistical that he loses his head, becomes extravagant, mannered, uproarious, ill at ease, makes kindly people feel sorry for him and stern ones merely annoyed.

One hopes he’ll grow out of it, but as Joyce is 40 this scarcely seems likely.

I have not read it carefully and only once.

It is very obscure, so, no doubt, I have scamped the virtue of it more than is fair.

I feel that myriads of tiny bullets pepper one and spatter one, but one does not get one deadly wound straight in the face — as from Tolstoy, for instance – but it is entirely absurd to compare him with Tolstoy.”

 

Tolstoy on 23 May 1908 at Yasnaya Polyana,[1] photo by Sergey Prokudin-Gorsky.

Above: Leo Tolstoy (1828 – 1910)

 

But here’s the thing:

Mrs. Dalloway can be compared to Ulysses and it might even be argued the latter influenced the former, despite Woolf’s protestations.

 

Ulysses

 

How does this connect with anything?

 

This is connected to my personal purpose for this particular blog and the reason it is named “Building Everest“.

I began this blog, with the assistance of Natalie and Ricardo Utsumi who first helped me start blogging as a birthday present 417 blogposts ago, with the intention of practice and brainstorming.

I have a few notions of work I wish to one day see published (my Mount Everest I wish to scale) and this blog serves as both practice for my writing and as well allows me to brainstorm ideas for work that hopefully one day will find itself on bookshelves in bookshops and libraries.

Such is my dream.

 

Everest kalapatthar.jpg

 

Of these notions perculating in my brain is a project I have long wanted to do, but I have been indecisive as to the approach with which this project could be written.

I am thinking of writing an account of an unusual journey where – in a land replete with railways – the narrator of this adventure refuses to ride the rails in his exploration of that land.

Where the indecision arises is the manner in which this adventure could be captured.

 

PostBus Switzerland - Wikipedia

 

Part of me leans toward the travel log / travel guide method describing the places seen and people met in a style reminiscent of someone like Paul Theroux.

 

Theroux in 2008

 

Another part of me – and here is where Mrs. Dalloway comes into play – would like to emulate Charles Dickens’ The Pickwick Papers in such a way as comparisons can be made between my work and his, and yet remain apart as works as individual as Charles and I are.

 

Pickwickclub serial.jpg

 

For those readers who have yet to experience the joy that I have had in reading The Pickwick Papers, a brief summary….

 

 

The Posthumous Papers of the Pickwick Club (also known as The Pickwick Papers) was Charles Dickens’s first novel.

Because of his success with Sketches by Boz published in 1836, Dickens was asked by the publisher Chapman and Hall to supply descriptions to explain a series of comic “cockney sporting plates” by illustrator Robert Seymour and to connect them into a novel.

The book became Britain’s first real publishing phenomenon, with bootleg copies, theatrical performances, joke books and other merchandise.

 

Charles Dickens

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

 

(A kind of Harry Potter success story, eh?)

 

The Harry Potter logo first used for the American edition of the novel series (and some other editions worldwide), and then the film series.

 

Dickens was working as a Parliamentary reporter and a roving journalist at age 24, and he had published a collection of sketches on London life as Sketches by Boz.

 

SketchesbyBoz front.jpg

 

As said, publisher Chapman and Hall was projecting a series of “cockney sporting plates” by illustrator Robert Seymour.

 

Above: Robert Seymour (1798 – 1836)

 

There was to be a club, the members of which were to be sent on hunting and fishing expeditions into the country.

Their guns were to go off by accident and fishhooks were to get caught in their hats and trousers.

These and other misadventures were to be depicted in Seymour’s comic plates.

They asked Dickens to supply the description necessary to explain the plates and to connect them into a sort of picture novel that was fashionable at the time.

He protested that he knew nothing of sport, but still accepted the commission.

Only in a few instances did Dickens adjust his narrative to plates that had been prepared for him.

Typically, he led the way with an instalment of his story, and the artist was compelled to illustrate what Dickens had already written.

The story thus became the prime source of interest and the illustrations merely of secondary importance.

Seymour provided the illustrations for the first two instalments before his suicide.

 

 

The Pickwick Papers is a sequence of loosely related adventures written for serialization in a periodical.

The action is given as occurring in 1827 to 1828, though critics have noted some seeming anachronisms.

For example, Dickens satirized the case of George Norton suing Lord Melbourne in 1836.

 

(William Lamb, 2nd Viscount Melbourne, (1779 – 1848), in some sources called Henry William Lamb, was a British Whig statesman who served as Home Secretary (1830–1834) and Prime Minister (1834 and 1835–1841).

He is best known for being Prime Minister in Queen Victoria’s early years and coaching her in the ways of politics, acting almost as her private secretary.

Historians have concluded that Melbourne does not rank highly as a Prime Minister, for there were no great foreign wars or domestic issues to handle, he lacked major achievements, he enunciated no grand principles, and he was involved in several political scandals in the early years of Victoria’s reign.

 

William-Lamb-2nd-Viscount-Melbourne.jpg

Above: William Lamb, Lord Melbourne (1779 – 1848)

 

In 1836, Melbourne was involved in a sex scandal.

He was the victim of attempted blackmail from the husband of a close friend, society beauty and author Caroline Norton.

 

Caroline Norton (1808-77) society beauty and author by GH, Chatsworth Coll..jpg

Above: Caroline Norton (née Sheridan) (1808 – 1877)

 

The husband demanded £1,400, and when he was turned down he accused Melbourne of having an affair with his wife.

At that time such a scandal would have been enough to derail a major politician, so it is a measure of the respect contemporaries had for his integrity that Melbourne’s government did not fall.

The King and the Duke of Wellington urged him to stay on as Prime Minister.

After Norton failed in court, Melbourne was vindicated, but he did stop seeing Norton.

Nonetheless, as historian Boyd Hilton concludes:

It is irrefutable that Melbourne’s personal life was problematic.

Spanking sessions with aristocratic ladies were harmless, not so the whippings administered to orphan girls taken into his household as objects of charity.”)

 

Above: Plaque in St. Etheldreda’s Church, Hatfield, England

 

The novel’s main character Samuel Pickwick, Esquire is a kind and wealthy old gentleman, the founder and perpetual president of the Pickwick Club.

He suggests that he and three other “Pickwickians” should make journeys to places remote from London and report on their findings to the other members of the club.

Their travels throughout the English countryside by coach (horse carriage) provide the chief subject matter of the novel.

 

 

I don’t wish to plagirize Mr. Dickens nor protest too much against The Pickwick Papers in the manner in which Woolf criticized Ulysses while emulating Joyce’s work to create Mrs. Dalloway.

Nor do I wish (at least not any more) to have my proposed coach (bus) travels throughout the Swiss countryside be in the context of a type of Pickwickian club.

 

Our ultimate guide to seeing the Alps on a Swiss postal bus

 

(I once played with the notion of having the hero scout places across the Helvetian Confederation for possible locations for a coffeehouse franchise.)

 

Map of Switzerland

 

But the notion of having the narrator experience misadventures similar to the Pickwickians and encountering folks in a manner similar to the Beatles’ Magical Mystery Tour does appeal to me greatly.

 

MagicalMysteryTourDoubleEPcover.jpg

 

Where Building Everest comes into play in this regard is in the manner in which Dickens wrote his novels.

 

Above: Dickens at his desk, 1836

 

A pioneer of serialised fiction, most of Dickens’s major novels were first written in monthly or weekly instalments in journals such as Master Humphrey’s Clock and Household Words, later reprinted in book form.

These instalments made the stories affordable and accessible, and the series of regular cliffhangers made each new episode widely anticipated.

When The Old Curiosity Shop was being serialised, American fans waited at the docks in New York harbor, shouting out to the crew of an incoming British ship:

“Is little Nell dead?”

Dickens’s talent was to incorporate this episodic writing style, but still end up with a coherent novel at the end.

 

Cover of Master Humphrey's Clock, in which the serial editions were pubished

 

Another important impact of Dickens’s episodic writing style resulted from his exposure to the opinions of his readers and friends.

His friend Forster had a significant hand in reviewing his drafts, an influence that went beyond matters of punctuation.

He toned down melodramatic and sensationalist exaggerations, cut long passages (such as the episode of Quilp’s drowning in The Old Curiosity Shop) and made suggestions about plot and character.

It was he who suggested that Charley Bates should be redeemed in Oliver Twist.

Dickens had not thought of killing Little Nell, and it was Forster who advised him to entertain this possibility as necessary to his conception of the heroine.

 

Olivertwist front.jpg

 

Dickens’s serialisation of his novels was criticised by other authors.

 

Portrait by Henry Walter Barnett, 1893

Above: Robert Louis Stevenson (1850 – 1894)

 

In Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson’s novel The Wrecker, there is a comment by Captain Nares, investigating an abandoned ship:

“See! They were writing up the log,” said Nares, pointing to the ink-bottle.

“Caught napping, as usual.

I wonder if there ever was a captain yet that lost a ship with his logbook up to date?

He generally has about a month to fill up on a clean break, like Charles Dickens and his serial novels.”

 

The Wrecker by Robert Louis Stevenson, Fiction, Classics, Action & Adventure

 

So far, with the notable exception of this blog’s Forest of Shadows, this blog has served as electronic journal, chapbook and travel log of my adventures, both in thought and deed, as well as an as-told-to record of the adventures of Peach Pal and Swiss Miss.

 

(I am presently working on the next Peach Pal installment.)

 

I am now debating the wisdom of serializing the aforementioned journey here in this blog, or, at least, similar to John Steinbeck’s Working Days: The Journals of “The Grapes of Wrath” (or Journal of a Novel: The “East of Eden” Letters, or A Russian Journal, or The Log from “The Sea of Cortez”) documenting the journey from thought to final publication.

 

Steinbeck in 1939

Above: John Steinbeck (1902 – 1968)

 

I am leaning towards the latter course of action rather than the former, but my ideas are, not as yet, set in stone.

 

As musings continue within me, the world turns around and without me.

 

"The Blue Marble" photograph of Earth, taken by the Apollo 17 mission. The Arabian peninsula, Africa and Madagascar lie in the upper half of the disc, whereas Antarctica is at the bottom.

 

The border can now be crossed, if you have a relative on the other side.

If you try shopping and transporting back home that which you bought, you are fined.

How this prevents Covid-19 isn’t explained to anyone’s satisfaction.

 

Ibuprofen and COVID-19 | University of Basel

 

Footballer Ronaldo meets his lifesize chocolate twin.

 

Cristiano Ronaldo 2018.jpg

Above. Cristiano Ronaldo dos Santos Aveiro

 

Sweet CR7': Portuguese chocolatier unveils life-size sculpture of ...

 

As the number of corona cases fall, the number of protesters rise.

The ageless debate between freedom and security is again decided by force.

 

2020.05.31 Protesting the Murder of George Floyd, Washington, DC USA 152 35039 (49957522627).jpg

Above: Protesting the murder of George Floyd, Washington DC, 31 May 2020

 

A couple had to pay CHF 200 because there was no social distance between them.

The number of fines and convictions for violations of the corona rules is increasing.

 

Swiss Traffic Police Cars // Police Genève BRA - YouTube

 

And the jukebox in my mind hears Tina Turner ask:

“What’s love got to do, got to do with it?”

 

What's Love Got to Do with It (song) - Wikipedia

 

Meanwhile, animals almost as rare as unicorns are spotted and photographed in Kanton Uri.

“Two white chamois?

That’s a sensation!”

 

Dall sheep ram with full curl

 

A bus crashes into a Hamburg station and is trapped midair.

Did the driver believe that a bus can fly?

 

Hamburg: Bus kracht in Bahnhofsgebäude - und kommt über Rolltreppe ...

 

Heading east from Landschlacht, nearby Güttingen embraces the past as it sees the completion of archaeological diving excavations of the Mouse Tower that lies beneath the Harbour.

In addition to the Tower dating back to the Middle Ages, findings from Roman times are also documented.

 

Güttingen, Mäuseturm

 

Heading west from Landschlacht, nearby Kreuzlingen evades the future as the  Association for a Radiation Free Kreuzlingen collects signatures against a Sunrise plan to install a 5G antenna mast on the site of the Neuwiler boat building company beside Lake Constance.

 

Einsprache gegen 5G-Antenne | KreuzlingerZeitung

 

In telecommunications, 5G is the fifth generation technology standard for cellular networks, which cellular phone companies began deploying worldwide in 2019, the planned successor to the 4G networks which provide connectivity to most current cellphones.

Like its predecessors, which were also protested against, 5G networks are cellular networks, in which the service area is divided into small geographical areas called cells.

All 5G wireless devices in a cell are connected to the Internet and telephone network by radio waves through a local antenna in the cell.

The main advantage of the new networks is that they will have greater bandwidth, giving faster download speeds, eventually up to 10 gigabits per second (Gbit/s).

Due to the increased bandwidth, it is expected that the new networks will not just serve cellphones like existing cellular networks, but also be used as general internet service providers for laptops and desktop computers, competing with existing ISPs such as cable internet, and also will make possible new applications in IoT and M2M areas.

Current 4G cellphones will not be able to use the new networks, which will require new 5G enabled wireless devices.

 

5th generation mobile network (5G) logo.jpg

 

Due to fears of potential espionage of users of Chinese equipment vendors, several countries (including the United States, Australia and the United Kingdom as of early 2019) have taken actions to restrict or eliminate the use of Chinese equipment in their respective 5G networks.

Chinese vendors and the Chinese government have denied these claims.

 

Flag of China - Colours, Meaning, History ??

 

Concerns have been raised about the visual impact of 5G transmitters on historically and environmentally sensitive areas.

In August 2019, a court in the United States decided that 5G technology will not be deployed without environmental impact and historic preservation reviews.

 

July 4th: The histories of all 27 U.S. flags for Independence Day

 

On 18 October 2018, a team of researchers from ETH Zürich, the University of Lorraine and the University of Dundee released a paper entitled, “A Formal Analysis of 5G Authentication“.

It alerted that 5G technology could open ground for a new era of security threats.

The paper described the technology as “immature and insufficiently tested“, the one that “enables the movement and access of vastly higher quantities of data, and thus broadens attack surfaces“.

 

ETH Zurich long logo – Services & resources | ETH Zurich

 

But these are not what has the Kreuzlingeners bothered.

 

The scientific consensus is that 5G technology is safe.

 

A man speaking on a mobile telephone

 

Misunderstanding of 5G technology has given rise to conspiracy theories claiming it has an adverse effect on human health.

An international appeal to the European Union made on 13 September 2017, garnered over 180 signatures from scientists representing 35 countries.

They cite unproven concerns over the 10 to 20 billion connections to the 5G network and the subsequent increase in RF-EMF exposure affecting the global populace constantly.

A further letter by many of the same scientists was written in January 2019, demanding a moratorium on 5G coverage in Europe until potential hazards for human health have been fully investigated.

 

EU set to start membership talks with Albania and North Macedonia

 

In April 2019, the city of Brussels in Belgium blocked a 5G trial because of radiation laws.

 

A collage with several views of Brussels, Top: View of the Northern Quarter business district, 2nd left: Floral carpet event in the Grand Place, 2nd right: Town Hall and Mont des Arts area, 3rd: Cinquantenaire Park, 4th left: Manneken Pis, 4th middle: St. Michael and St. Gudula Cathedral, 4th right: Congress Column, Bottom: Royal Palace of Brussels

Above: Images of Brussels

 

In Geneva, a planned upgrade to 5G was stopped for the same reason.

 

A view over Geneva and the lake

Above: Geneva

 

The Swiss Telecommunications Association (ASUT) has said that studies have been unable to show that 5G frequencies have any health impact.

Several Swiss cantons adopted moratoriums on 5G technology, though the federal offices in charge of environment and telecommunications say that the cantons have no jurisdiction to do so.

 

asut - Schweizerischer Verband der Telekommunikation

 

According to CNET:

Members of Parliament in the Netherlands are also calling on the government to take a closer look at 5G.

 

buildings-of-the-dutch-parliament-in-the-hague-netherlands ...

Above: The Binnenhof (Dutch Parliament), The Hague, Netherlands

 

Several leaders in Congress have written to the Federal Communications Commission expressing concern about potential health risks.

 

United States Capitol - Wikipedia

Above: US Capitol Building, Washington DC

 

In Mill Valley, California, the city council blocked the deployment of new 5G wireless cells.

 

Mill Valley City Hall

Above: Mill Valley City Hall

 

Similar concerns were raised in Vermont and New Hampshire.

After campaigning by activist groups, a series of small localities in the UK, including Totnes, Brighton and Hove, Glastonbury, and Frome passed resolutions against the implementation of further 5G infrastructure.

 

Ofcom measured UK's 5G radiation and found that, no, it won't give ...

 

There have been a number of concerns over the spread of disinformation in the media and online regarding the potential health effects of 5G technology.

 

Montage of the typical cellular Antenna at the top of the tower

 

Writing in The New York Times in 2019, William Broad reported that RT (Russia Today) America began airing programming linking 5G to harmful health effects which “lack scientific support“, such as “brain cancer, infertility, autism, heart tumors, and Alzheimer’s disease“.

Broad asserted that the claims had increased.

RT America had run seven programs on this theme by mid-April 2019 but only one in the whole of 2018.

The network’s coverage had spread to hundreds of blogs and websites.

 

RT America (@RT_America) | Twitter

 

Why are conspiracies believed over science?

 

Jews, Knights Templar, Communists, 5G, Pharmaceutical Managers who enrich themselves thanks to the corona virus….

 

A millennium of history shows that conspiracy theories are the one constant of humanity.

 

 

Light a candle in memory of two public figures who have recently died.

 

Make Someone Smile - Light Their Candle - Mail A Smile Today ...

 

Rolf Hochhuth (1 April 1931 – 13 May 2020) was a German author and playwright, best known for his 1963 drama The Deputy, which insinuates Pope Pius XII’s indifference to Hitler’s extermination of the Jews.

 

 

Hochhuth’s drama, The Deputy, was originally entitled Der Stellvertreter. Ein christliches Trauerspiel (The Deputy, a Christian Tragedy), the play caused a great deal of controversy because of its criticism of Pope Pius XII’s role in World War II.

The play was subsequently published in the UK in Robert David MacDonald’s translation as The Representative.

Its publisher Ed Keating and journalist Warren Hinckle, who themselves considered it “dramaturgically flawed“, organized a committee to defend the play as a matter of free speech.

In 2007, Ion Mihai Pacepa, a former Romanian spymaster, alleged that the play was part of a KGB campaign to discredit Pius XII.

A leading German newspaper opined “that Hochhuth did not require any KGB assistance for his one-sided presentation of history.”

 

His Holiness Pope Pius XII.png

Above: Pope Pius XII (né Eugenio Pacelli) (1876 – 1958)

 

Hochhuth remained a controversial figure both for his plays and other public comments and for his 2005 defense of Holocaust denier David Irving.

 

David Irving 1.jpg

 

Hochhuth’s play, Soldiers: An obituary for Geneva alleged that Winston Churchill was responsible for the death of the Prime Minister of the Polish Government in Exile, General Władysław Sikorski, in an airplane crash in 1943, contradicting the official version of events as an accident, and implying that General Sikorski had been murdered on Churchill’s orders.

Unbeknownst to Hochhuth, the pilot of the plane was still alive and he won a libel case that seriously affected the London theater which staged the play.

That aspect of the play has overshadowed Hochhuth’s conceit that the play would contribute to a debate on the ethics of the area bombing of civilian areas by the Royal Air Force during the Second World War, with particular reference to Operation Gomorrah, the Royal Air Force raids on Hamburg in 1943, and culminating in a lengthy and invented debate between Winston Churchill and the pacifist George Bell, Bishop of Chichester.

The play partially drew on the work of British author David Irving, later known as a Holocaust denier.

Irving and Hochhuth remained long-standing friends.

 

Soldiers : A Play: Rolf Hochhuth, David MacDonald: Amazon.com: Books

 

His novel A Love in Germany about an affair between a Polish POW and a German woman in World War II stirred up a debate about the past of Hans Filbinger, Minister-President of Baden-Württemberg, who had been a Navy lawyer and judge at the end of World War II.

 

Hans Filbinger (Bundesarchiv B 145 Bild-F054633-0026, Ludwigshafen, CDU-Bundesparteitag cropped).jpg

Above: Hans Filbinger (1913 – 2007)

 

The affair culminated in Filbinger’s resignation.

 

A Love in Germany FilmPoster.jpeg

 

Hochhuth’s drama Alan Turing featured one of the fathers of modern computer science, who had made significant contributions to breaking German ciphers during World War II.

The play also covered Turing’s homosexuality, discovery of which resulted in his loss of career, court-ordered chemical castration, depression, and suicide.

 

Alan Turing Aged 16.jpg

Above: Alan Turing (1912 – 1954)

 

In 2004, Hochhuth caused controversy with the play McKinsey is Coming, which raises the questions of unemployment, social justice and the “right to work“.

A passage in which he put the chairman of the Deutsche Bank in one line with leading businessmen who had been murdered by left-wing terrorists and also with Gessler, the villainous bailiff killed by William Tell, was widely seen as advocating, or at least excusing, violence against leading economic figures.

 

Above: William Tell arrested for not saluting baliff Gessler’s hat

 

Hochhuth vigorously denied this.

 

McKinsey kommt - Molières Tartuffe von Rolf Hochhuth | dtv

 

In March 2005, Hochhuth became embroiled in controversy when, during an interview with the German weekly Junge Freiheit, he defended Holocaust denier David Irving, describing him as a “pioneer of modern history who has written magnificent books” and an “historian to equal someone like Joachim Fest“.

 

Joachim Fest 002 headcrop.jpg

Above: Joachim Fest (1926 – 2006)

 

When asked about Irving’s statement that “more women died on the back seat of Edward Kennedy’s car at Chappaquiddick than ever died in a gas chamber in Auschwitz“, Hochhuth dismissed it as provocative black humour.

 

Birkenau múzeum - panoramio (cropped).jpg

Above: Auschwitz, Poland

 

(The Chappaquiddick incident (popularly known as Chappaquiddick) was a single-vehicle car accident that occurred on Chappaquiddick Island in Massachusetts some time around midnight between Friday 18 July and Saturday 19 July 1969.

The accident was caused by Senator Edward M. (Ted) Kennedy’s negligence and resulted in the death of his 28-year-old passenger Mary Jo Kopechne, who was trapped inside the vehicle.)

 

Edward Kennedy: Der rätselhafte Chappaquiddick-Unfall 1969 - DER ...

 

Ted Kennedy, official photo portrait crop.jpg

Above: Ted Kennedy (1932 – 2009)

 

Mary Jo Kopechne.jpg

Above: Mary Jo Kopechne (1940 – 1969)

 

Paul Spiegel, President of the Central Council of Jews in Germany, argued that with these statements Hochhuth himself was denying the Holocaust.

After weeks of uproar, Hochhuth issued an apology.

 

Above: Paul Spiegel (1937 – 2006)

 

Hochhuth, in my mind, violated a cardinal rule.

 

Write a story.

Don’t be the story.

 

 

Astrid Kirchherr (20 May 1938 – 12 May 2020) was a German photographer and artist known for her association with the Beatles (along with her friends Klaus Voormann and Jürgen Vollmer) and her photographs of the band’s original members – John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison, Stuart Sutcliffe and Pete Best – during their early days in Hamburg.

Kirchherr met artist Stuart Sutcliffe in the Kaiserkeller bar in Hamburg in 1960, where Sutcliffe was playing bass with the Beatles, and was later engaged to him, before his death in 1962.

Although Kirchherr shot very few photographs after 1967, her early work has been exhibited in Hamburg, Bremen, London, Liverpool, New York City, Washington DC, Tokyo, Vienna and at the Rock ‘n’ Roll Hall of Fame.

She published three limited-edition books of photographs.

 

Astrid Kirchherr.jpg

Above: Astrid Kirchherr

 

Kirchherr was born in 1938 in Hamburg, Germany, and was the daughter of a former executive of the German branch of the Ford Motor Company.

During World War II, she was evacuated to the safety of the Baltic Sea where she remembered seeing dead bodies on the shore (after the ships Cap Arcona and the SS Deutschland had been bombed and sunk) and the destruction in Hamburg when she returned.

 

Cap Arcona 1.JPG

 

After her graduation, Kirchherr enrolled in the Meisterschule für Mode, Textil, Grafik und Werbung in Hamburg, as she wanted to study fashion design but demonstrated a talent for black-and-white photography.

Reinhard Wolf, the school’s main photographic tutor, convinced her to switch courses and promised that he would hire her as his assistant when she graduated.

Kirchherr worked for Wolf as his assistant from 1959 until 1963.

In the late 1950s and early 1960s, Kirchherr and her art school friends were involved in the European existentialist movement whose followers were later nicknamed “Exis” by Lennon.

 

In 1995, she told BBC Radio Merseyside:

Our philosophy then, because we were only little kids, was wearing black clothes and going around looking moody.

Of course, we had a clue who Jean-Paul Sartre was.

 

Sartre 1967 crop.jpg

Above: Jean-Paul Sartre (1905 – 1980)

 

We got inspired by all the French artists and writers, because that was the closest we could get.

England was so far away and America was out of the question.

So France was the nearest.

So we got all the information from France and we tried to dress like the French existentialists.

We wanted to be free.

We wanted to be different and tried to be cool, as we call it now.

 

Small France Flag | Buy Small French Flag | The Flag Shop

 

Kirchherr, Klaus Voormann and Jürgen Vollmer were friends who had all attended the Meisterschule, and shared the same ideas about fashion, culture and music.

 

Astrid Kirchherr and Klaus Voormann, Hamburg Art School | The ...

Above: Kirchherr and Voorman

 

Voormann became Astrid’s boyfriend, and moved into the Kirchherr home, where he had his own room.

 

Voormann in 2018

Above: Klaus Voormann, 2018

 

In 1960, after Kirchherr and Vollmer had had an argument with Voormann, he wandered down the Reeperbahn (in the St. Pauli district of Hamburg) and heard music coming from the Kaiserkeller club.

 

Above: Herbertstraße, Reeperbahn, Hamburg, Germany

 

Kaiserkeller - Hamburg, early 1960 - YouTube

 

Voormann walked in and watched a performance by a group called the Beatles: Lennon, McCartney, Harrison, Sutcliffe and Best, their drummer at the time.

Voormann asked Kirchherr and Vollmer to listen to this new music, and after being persuaded to visit the Kaiserkeller (which was in the rough area of the Reeperbahn), Kirchherr decided that all she wanted to do was to be as close to the Beatles as she could.

The trio of friends had never heard rock n’ roll before, having previously listened to only trad jazz, with some Nat King Cole and The Platters mixed in.

The trio then visited the Kaiserkeller almost every night, arriving at 9 o’clock and sitting by the front of the stage.

 

kaiserkeller | Tumblr

 

Kirchherr later said:

It was like a merry-go-round in my head, they looked absolutely astonishing. 

My whole life changed in a couple of minutes.

All I wanted was to be with them and to know them.

 

Astrid Kirchherr, Who Helped Create the Beatles' Image, Dies at 81 ...

 

Kirchherr later said that she, Voormann and Vollmer felt guilty about being German and about Germany’s recent history.

Meeting the Beatles was something very special for her, although she knew that English people would think that she ate sauerkraut, and would comment on her heavy German accent, but they made jokes about it together.

Lennon would make sarcastic remarks from the stage, saying “You Krauts, we won the war“, knowing that very few Germans in the audience spoke English, but any English sailors present would roar with laughter.

Sutcliffe was fascinated by the trio, but especially Kirchherr, and thought they looked like “real bohemians“.

 

Pop Art: Astrid Kirchherr and the Beatles - Los Angeles Times

 

Bill Harry later said that when Kirchherr walked in, every head would immediately turn her way, and that she always captivated the whole room.

Sutcliffe wrote to a friend that he could hardly take his eyes off her and had tried to talk to Kirchherr during the next break, but she had already left the club.

Sutcliffe managed to meet them eventually, and learned that all three had attended the Meisterschule, which was the same type of art college that Lennon and Sutcliffe had attended in Liverpool.

 

Stuart stucliffe.jpg

Above: Stuart Sutcliffe (1940 – 1962)

 

Kirchherr asked the Beatles if they would mind letting her take photographs of them in a photo session, which impressed them, as other groups had only snapshots that were taken by friends.

 

 

The next morning Kirchherr took photographs with a Rolleicord camera, at a fairground in a municipal park called Hamburger Dom which was close to the Reeperbahn, and in the afternoon she took them all (minus Best, who decided not to go) to her mother’s house in Altona.

 

Astrid Kirchherr dead: Beatles photographer dies aged 81 after ...

 

Kirchherr’s bedroom (which was all in black, including the furniture, with silver foil on the walls and a large tree branch suspended from the ceiling), was decorated especially for Voormann, with whom she had a relationship, although after the visits to the Kaiserkeller their relationship became purely platonic.

Kirchherr started dating Sutcliffe, although she always remained a close friend of Voormann.

Kirchherr later supplied Sutcliffe and the other Beatles with Preludin, which, when taken with beer, made them feel euphoric and helped to keep them awake until the early hours of the morning.

The Beatles had taken Preludin before, but it was only possible at the time to obtain Preludin with a doctor’s prescription note.

Kirchherr’s mother received them from a local chemist, who supplied them without asking questions.

 

INACTIVE BLOG — Happy hour for the Beatles as they display their...

 

After meeting Kirchherr, Lennon filled his letters to Cynthia Powell (his girlfriend at the time) with “Astrid said this, Astrid did that“, which made Powell jealous, until she read that Sutcliffe was in a relationship with Kirchherr.

 

Cynthia Lennon

Above: Cynthia Lennon (née Powell) (1939 – 2015)

 

When Powell visited Hamburg with Dot Rhone (McCartney’s girlfriend at the time) in April 1961, they stayed at Kirchherr’s house.

 

Dot Rhone, right, Paul's first real girlfriend, told him that she ...

 

In August 1963, Kirchherr met Lennon and Cynthia in Paris while they were both there for a belated honeymoon, as Kirchherr was there with a girlfriend for a few days’ holiday.

The four of them went from wine bar to wine bar and finally ended up back at Kirchherr’s lodgings, where all four fell asleep on Kirchherr’s single bed.

 

Remembering Astrid Kirchherr, the Woman Who First Photographed the ...

 

The Beatles met Kirchherr again in Hamburg in 1966 when they were touring Germany, and Kirchherr gave Lennon the letters he had written to Sutcliffe in 1961 and 1962.

Lennon said it was “the best present I’ve had in years“.

 

Astrid Kirchherr: Beatles photographer dies aged 81 - BBC News

 

All of the Beatles wrote many letters to Kirchherr:

I only have a couple from George [Harrison], which I’ll never show anyone, but he wrote so many.

So did the others.

I probably threw them away.

You do that when you’re young.

You don’t think of the future.

 

Astrid Kirchherr with the Beatles - Genus Bononiae

 

Harrison later asked Kirchherr to arrange the cover of his Wonderwall Music album in 1968.

 

Wonderwall Music - Wikipedia

 

Sutcliffe wrote to friends that he was infatuated with Kirchherr and asked her friends which colours, films, books and painters she liked and whom she fancied.

Best later commented that the beginning of their relationship was “like one of those fairy stories“.

Kirchherr says that she immediately fell in love with Sutcliffe and referred to him as “the love of my life“.

Kirchherr and Sutcliffe got engaged in November 1960, and exchanged rings.

Sutcliffe later wrote to his parents that he was engaged to Kirchherr, which they were shocked to learn, as they thought he would give up his career as an artist, although he told Kirchherr that he would like to be an art teacher in London or Germany in the future.

Kirchherr and Sutcliffe went to Liverpool in the summer of 1961, as Kirchherr wanted to meet Sutcliffe’s family (and to see Liverpool) before their marriage.

Everybody was expecting a strange beatnik artist from Hamburg, but Kirchherr turned up at the Sutcliffes’ house at 37 Aigburth Drive, Liverpool, bearing a single long-stemmed orchid in her hand as a present, and dressed in a round-necked cashmere sweater and tailored skirt.

 

It was 20 years ago today… Stuart Sutcliffe, Astrid Kirchherr ...

 

In 1962, Sutcliffe collapsed in the middle of an art class in Hamburg.

He was suffering from intense headaches and Kirchherr’s mother had German doctors perform checks on him, although they were unable to determine the cause of his headaches.

While living at the Kirchherrs’ house in Hamburg, his condition deteriorated.

 

Above: Hamburg Painting #2, Stuart Sutcliffe

 

On 10 April 1962, Kirchherr’s mother phoned her daughter at work and told her Sutcliffe was not feeling well, had been brought back to the house, and an ambulance had been called for.

Kirchherr rushed home and rode with Sutcliffe in the ambulance, but he died in her arms before it reached the hospital.

 

Astrid Kirchherr: Ihre erste Fotografin | ZEIT ONLINE

 

Three days later Kirchherr met Lennon, McCartney and Best at the Hamburg airport (they were returning to Hamburg to perform) and told them Sutcliffe had died of a brain haemorrhage.

Harrison and manager Brian Epstein arrived on another plane sometime later with Sutcliffe’s mother, who had been informed by telegram.

 

Aankomst Brian Epstein (manager Beatles) op Schiphol (Grand Gala du Disque 1965), Bestanddeelnr 918-2516 ShiftN.jpg

Above: Brian Epstein (1934 – 1967)

 

Harrison and Lennon were helpful towards the distraught Kirchherr, with Lennon telling her one day that she definitely had to decide if she wanted to “live or die, there is no other question.”

 

Remembering Astrid Kirchherr, the Woman Who First Photographed the ...

Above: John Lennon (1940 – 1980)

 

In 1967, Kirchherr married English drummer Gibson Kemp (born Gibson Stewart Kemp, 1945, Liverpool, Lancashire), who had replaced Ringo Starr in Rory Storm and the Hurricanes.

 

Photo by Astrid Kirchherr

Above: Rory Storm (1938 – 1972)

 

The marriage ended in divorce after seven years.

 

Astrid Kirchherr & Gibson Kemp | Kemp, Cool bands, Gibson

Above: Gibson and Astrid Kemp

 

She then worked as a barmaid, as an interior designer, and then for a music publishing firm, getting married for a second time to a German businessman.

 

Kirchherr worked as an advisor in 1994 on the film Backbeat, which portrayed Kirchherr, Sutcliffe and the Beatles during their early days in Hamburg.

She was impressed with Stephen Dorff (who played Sutcliffe in the film), commenting that he was the right age (19 years old at the time), and his gestures, the way he smoked, and talked were so like Sutcliffe’s that she had goose pimples.

Kirchherr was portrayed in the film by Sheryl Lee.

 

Backbeat (film) - Wikipedia

 

Starting in the mid-1990s, Kirchherr and business partner Krüger operated the K&K photography shop in Hamburg, offering custom vintage prints, books and artwork for sale.

K&K periodically helps arrange Beatles’ conventions and other Beatles’ events in the Hamburg area.

 

She had no children and lived alone.

 

Astrid Kirchherr: Trauer um Beatles-Fotografin | STERN.de

 

She commented in 1995:

My second marriage ended in 1985.

I regretted I had no children.

I just couldn’t see me have any.

But now I am pleased when I see the situation the world is in. I live alone and am very happy.

 

Kirchherr died on 12 May 2020 in Hamburg, following “a short, serious illness“, a week prior to her 82nd birthday.

 

Baby's In Black' – An Interview with Author Arne Bellstorf (With ...

 

News of her death was first announced by Beatles historian Mark Lewisohn via Twitter.

He praised her involvement with the band as “immeasurable” and credited her as an “intelligent, inspirational, innovative, daring, artistic, awake, aware, beautiful, smart, loving and uplifting friend to many“.

 

 

The logo of the English rock band the Beatles

Oh dear, what can I do?
Baby’s in black and I’m feeling blue.
Tell me, oh what can I do?
She thinks of him
And so she dresses in black
And though he’ll never come back
She’s dressed in black.

 

Baby's in Black - Wikipedia

 

In my reading of what historical events took place on such-and-such a day I stumble across this interesting tidbit:

 

15 May 1932

Japanese Prime Minister Inukai Tsuyoshi’s struggle against the military led to his assassination during the May 15 Incident of 1932, which effectively marked the end of civilian political control over government decisions until after World War II.

Inukai was shot by eleven junior Navy officers (most were just turning twenty years of age) in the Prime Minister’s residence in Tokyo.

Inukai’s last words were roughly If I could speak, you would understand to which his killers replied Dialogue is useless.

 

Inukai Tsuyoshi.jpg

Above: Inukai Tsuyoshi (1855 – 1932)

 

The original assassination plan had included killing the English film star Charlie Chaplin – who had arrived in Japan on 14 May and was Inukai’s guest – in the hopes that this would provoke a war with the United States.

However, at the time, Chaplin was watching a sumo wrestling match with the Prime Minister’s son, Inukai Takeru, and thus escaped.

Inukai’s murderers received only light sentences for their actions.

 

Chaplin in his costume as "the Tramp"

Above: Charlie Chaplin (as “The Tramp“) (1889 – 1977)

 

A movie star famous for his silent roles who accidentally avoids his premature death, the guest of a prime minister whose dying words wished he could speak.

 

And again I hear Alannis Morissette sing:

“Isn’t it ironic, don’t you think?”

 

Alanis Morissette - Ironic (Official Video) - YouTube

 

My mind is frequently on Canada these days as I am aware it will be quite sometime before Canada will be reachable and open during these corona times.

My preferred airline home, Air Canada, will be laying off 20,000 employees starting 7 June.

I worry about friends and family working for the airlines and wonder what their future will be.

 

Air Canada says it's “ready for take-off”, new sked has close to ...

 

And it is under airplane free and cloudless skies that we, my wife Ute and I, walk a trail that I find inspiration from an unlikely source at an unexpected location.

 

19 Best Hiking Boots for Men 2020 | The Strategist | New York Magazine

 

Sunday 17 May 2020 was World Communications Day.

 

Two Maasai men look at their cell phones in front of camels.

 

(Didn’t you get the message?)

 

The full title of this day of days is “World Telecommunication and Information Society Day“, as proclaimed by the International Telecommunication Union Plenipotentiary Conference in Antalya, Turkey in November 2006, to commemorate the founding of the Union on 17 May 1865.

 

International Telecommunication Union Logo.svg

 

There is much ado in the NZZ am Sonntag regarding how the main objective of this day is to raise global awareness of social changes brought about by the Internet and new technologies.

It is the avowed aim of the day to help reduce the digital divide – that uneven distribution in the access to, use of, or impact of Information and Communication Technologies (ICT) between any number of distinct groups, based on social, geographical or geopolitical criteria.

Because of ICT high cost, its adoption and utilization is highly uneven across the globe.

 

Visualization of Internet routing paths

 

But between me and my beloved bride, there is a different sort of digital divide happening here.

 

Today, just as it ever was, my wife and I are digitally divided.

Because as I have aged we no longer share the same walking pace, she walks ahead of me listening to her audiobook or sending text messages or writing emails while waiting for her so slow hubby to finally catch up.

 

Best headphones for hiking [Bluetooth & Wired] - HikeHeaven

 

She, like so many of her generation and younger, seems afraid of silence and thought.

For example, during my twice weekly gym sessions I am the only customer not wearing earphones while working out.

 

7 Best Over-Ear Headphones For Working Out & The Gym (May 2020)

 

The joy of seeing nature with my wife is dampened by her impatience with me and I find myself irritated with many people’s inability to listen to the sounds of nature around them and their odd obsession with filling every moment between two points with no-thought-demanding distraction.

We live in a world in a big damned hurry that feels that the time and distance between points is too wasteful so it must be filled with noise and distraction.

 

Image result for shawshank redemption quotes brooks | Shawshank ...

 

On this Sunday (17 May) we find ourselves on the Thurgauer Tannzapfenweg (not really sure what that translates to), a circle tour from Fischingen Monastery to Allenwinden, Grat, Ottenegg and return – a distance of 11.4 kilometres with an ascent / descent of 470 metres.

Our printed-out map suggests that the walk should take a lot less time to do than I am doing it and my pace does not thrill my wife.

 

Rundwanderung Thurgauer Tannzapfenweg: Fischingen – Fischingen ...

 

Despite this pressure, I find the region around the Fischingen Monastery is a true hiking paradise.

 

Rundwanderung Thurgauer Tannzapfenweg: Fischingen – Fischingen ...

 

On the way, an unusual face of Thurgau is revealed:

Rugged rock faces and gaping gorges.

Great for galloping goats, calamity for clumsy Canadians.

 

Wikiloc | Picture of Thurgauer Tannzapfenweg Fischingen Grat ...

 

Starting from Fischingen Monastery, a pearl among Swiss monuments, a well-laidout ascent through shady forests leading up to the ridge, the highest point in Kanton Thurgau at 991 metres above sea level.

The hike is designed in such a way that the characteristic features of the pre-Alpine hilly landscape in the border area of the cantons of Thurgau, St. Gallen and Zürich can be experienced.

Sections alternate through varied forested areas and mountain trails which always offer breathtaking views.

 

Die schönsten Rundwanderungen in der Schweiz

 

Past the deep gaping gorge of the Murg with rugged rock faces, the hiker continues to the simple forest chapel dedicated to St. Idda.

Afterwards and with a view of the Bodensee (Lake Constance) and the Hegau volcanoes (extinct), the path leads back to Fischingen Monastery.

 

Thurgauer Tannzapfenweg • Wanderung » outdooractive.com

 

Let it be recorded here that a visit to the Fischingen Monastery is worthwhile.

 

 

The Abbey was founded in 1138 by Ulrich II, Bishop of Konstanz as a private episcopal monastery, with the intention that it should offer shelter and hospitality to pilgrims on their way from Konstanz to Einsiedeln Abbey.

 

 

The hermit Gebino was appointed the first Abbot.

In only six years he had built at Fischingen a bell tower, accommodation for both monks and nuns, and a guesthouse.

 

 

At its high point in about 1210, Fischingen had about 150 monks and 120 nuns.

The “Vogtei” (protective lordship) over the Abbey belonged to the Counts of Toggenburg.

 

Das Wappen der Grafen von Toggenburg nach 1308

Above: Coat of arms of the Counts of Toggenburg

 

Saint Idda of Toggenburg, who lived in a cell of the Abbey in about 1200, is buried in a chapel off the abbey church.

 

 

The church was located on the way to Einsiedeln and its pilgrimage church, so in the 16th and 17th centuries a small pilgrimage industry grew up in Fischingen.

The pilgrimage chapel grew up around the grave of Saint Idda of Toggenburg, who had lived in the Abbey.

 

 

From 1460 the Abbey was under the authority of the administration of Thurgau in the Old Swiss Confederacy.

 

Coat of arms of Kanton Thurgau

Above: Canton of Thurgau coat of arms

 

During the Reformation, the Abbey was dissolved for several years, when in 1526 the Abbot and the four remaining monks converted to the Reformed beliefs.

 

The Abbey was reopened however on the initiative of the Roman Catholic townships of the Old Swiss Confederacy.

 

 

Since the rule of Abbot Mathias Stähelin (1604 – 1616), a small school was run in the Monastery for young novices to the Benedictine order.

 

Medalla San Benito.PNG

Above: Medal of the Benedictine Order

 

In the 17th and 18th centuries the premises were rebuilt in the Baroque and Rococo styles.

 

During the Baroque period (1650 – 1780) a total of 134 monks lived in the Monastery.

Most of the monks were Swiss, mostly from the cantons of St. Gallen, Thurgau, Uri, Schwyz, Luzern and Zug.

The foreign monks were Austrian or German.

 

Between 1685 and 1687 a new abbey church was constructed, and in 1705 a new chapel dedicated to Saint Idda.

 

 

In the 18th century part of the monastic premises was rebuilt, but could not be completed because of the Abbey’s accumulated debts.

 

The last Abbot Franziskas Fröhlicher (1836 – 1848) tried to save the school by converting it into a public high school open to all young people.

 

Bericht über Kinderheim und Sekundarschule St. Iddazell-Fischingen ...

Fischingen Abbey was dissolved on 27 June 1848 by the Grand Council of Thurgau.

The medieval library holdings were taken over by the Thurgau cantonal library.

 

Above: Thurgau Cantonal Library, Frauenfeld

 

The abbey premises were sold in 1852 to the textile manufacturer, Friedrich Ludwig Imhof of Winterthur.

Cotton fabric and shoe uppers were made at the former Monastery.

 

In 1875, Thurgau councillor August Wild bought the Monastery and ran an international business and trade school.

It was not very successful.

 

In 1879 the buildings were acquired by the Catholic voluntary society “Verein St. Iddazell”, who established in them the St. Iddazell Orphanage.

 

St. Iddazell – der entzauberte Ort | St.Galler Tagblatt

 

The detection of cases of abuse in church schools and homes also affected the Orphanage.

Witnesses reported violent excesses, waterboarding and sexual assault from the 1950s to the 1970s, though these occurrences are partially contested by former teachers and students.

On 9 October 2019, the St. Gallen Tagblatt reported that a former child was suing the Canton of Thurgau for sexual assault and medical trials for CHF 1.4 million, charging the Canton had violated its duty of supervision.

The lawsuit was filed by a former student who has housed here in the 1960s and 1970s.

 

Der entzauberte Ort | St.Galler Tagblatt

 

After the repeal in 1973 of the “Article of Exception” (“Ausnahmeartikel”) in the Swiss Constitution, which forbade the opening of new monasteries and the re-establishment of old ones,

Fischingen was reopened as an independent priory in its former premises in 1977.

 

Fischingen mit Kloster im Hintergrund

 

Although several Benedictine monks still reside in the main building, it is now a high class hotel which specialises in seminars.

The seminar hotel possesses 29 double rooms and two multi-bed rooms of 12 and 20 beds each.

 

SEMINARHOTEL KLOSTER FISCHINGEN - Prices & B&B Reviews ...

 

There is also accommodation for pilgrims following St. James Way to faroff Santiago de la Compostela in Spain.

 

Jakobsweg – Wikipedia

 

Guided tours must be pre-booked around this large and interesting building.

 

The excellent restaurant is open to non-residents.

 

TKSF 2018

 

The whole place is immaculate and the attached Catholic church is a place of extraordinary beauty.

A unique feature in the church is an ancient stone sarcophagus with small opening in base into which the faithful put their feet while making peace with their Maker.

 

Fischingen – Meilen: «Pilger-Route: Etappe 2» • Radtour ...

 

New to the abbey in 2015 is the Brauerei Kloster Fischingen, located in an outbuilding.

Their bottled ales are available in the restaurant.

The brewery in the Fischingen Monastery is the only monastery brewery in Switzerland.

It brews unique and special beers under the “Pilgrim” brand.

 

Brauerei Kloster Fischingen AG - PILGRIM

 

Now, at this point of reading, you may be wondering about the “fish” in the name of “Fischingen” and why fish form the coat of arms of the municipality and are found on the facade of the Monastery.

You, my gentle readers, and I are not the only ones to ask this question.

 

Coat of arms of Fischingen

Above: Coat of arms of the municipality of Fischingen

 

Which brings me, in a long roundabout way, to how Fischingen Monastery has inspired me through the example of one Corinne Lanz.

 

Warum heisst ein Ort Fischingen?»: Corinne Lanz hat ein Buch über ...

 

Corinne Lanz has expanded her homework into a book – a travel guide of a different kind.

There is a lot going on in Thurgau, too.“, says Lanz.

Place names that refer to animals have fascinated the 40-year-old woman so much that she wrote about this for her homework assignment in Frauenfeld – an assignment that is now a published book (Tierisch was los in der Schweiz – The animals are loose in Switzerland) that was launched on 18 May.

 

Tierisch was los in der Schweiz - Corinne Lanz-Schläfli - Buch ...

 

She wanted to research the origin of the names of 12 places in Switzerland all connected with animals.

To make sure that her work wasn’t all theoretical, Lanz visited the villages and put together a small travel guide.

In the book, I tried to take locations from different regions into account and put the animal groups together in a somewhat balanced way.“, says Lanz.

The choice of placenames came with a change of residence.

 

After I moved out of the canton of Bern into a new area for me, I discovered towns whose names I found funny, for example, “Samstagern” (Saturdays), “Dachsen” (badgers) or “Grüze” (greetings).

 

Samstagern - Wikipedia

Above: Samstagern

 

Dachsen - Wikipedia

Above: Dachsen

 

Area Development Neuhegi Grüze Winterthur

 

She took pictures of “funny” town signs.

At some point I asked myself: Why is a place called “Fischingen”(fish village) or “Affeltrangen” (monkey struggle)?

The background information could be found in the cantonal placename books, for the canton of Thurgau from the Thurgau name book.

The municipal administrations and local historians gave me tips for excursions and made me aware of the peculiarities of the villages.“, says the author.

 

Photos Switzerland - Fotos Schweiz - Affeltrangen TG

Above: Affeltrangen

 

Fischingen im Hinterthurgau (to give its official full name) is one of thirty animal villages in the travel guide.

The coat of arms with the two fish can be found on buildings in the village.

The fish are also present in paintings and stucco of the Fischingen Monastery.

 

Warum heisst ein Ort Fischingen?»: Corinne Lanz hat ein Buch über ...

 

Corinne Lanz describes herself as “a late bloomer“.

As a middle secondary school (junior high) student, Lanz completed a commercial apprenticeship.

At the age of 35, Lanz was motivated to return to school again for 3.5 years at Kanti Frauenfeld.

I liked the fact that you can simply try for a diploma without an entrance exam or an age limit.

 

Kantonsschule Frauenfeld – Wikipedia

Above: Kantonschule Frauenfeld

 

Today, Lanz works as a part-time clerk and also studies history and geography at the University of Zürich.

 

University of Zurich declares third-party donations - SWI swissinfo.ch

Above: University of Zürich

 

After the TSME (high school equivalency) I found it kind of a shame to put the topic aside and so I was looking for a publisher with whom I could expand the book project to include other placenames.“, says Lanz.

I was lucky and the Helvetia publishing house got involved in the experiment.

 

Helvetia – Wikipedia

 

With the book, Lanz had no master plan in mind, but it was important to her that it should be understandable and cheerful.

As a target audience, she wants to see enterprising, uncomplicated people who want to discover something new, be it from the sofa or across Switzerland.

That is why it felt good to write in the “du” (informal “you”) form.“, says the author.

When the readers smile when they read, I’m happy.

 

Warum heisst ein Ort Fischingen?»: Corinne Lanz hat ein Buch über ...

 

And if they discover and maybe visit new sides of Switzerland, it would be a nice side effect too.

 

As I walked the Tannzapfenweg and visited the Fischingen Monastery, I recalled this article about Ms. Lanz and her new book from the Thurgauer Zeitung of the previous day (16 May) and also how the newspaper in another article encourage their readers to rediscover their homeland….

 

Mutlose Reaktion auf Vorstoss – Saiten – Ostschweizer ...

 

Do you know each other better in London than in Geneva?

 

View of Tower Bridge from Shad Thames

 

And you have climbed Kilimanjaro but never crossed the Alps on foot?

 

Mount Kilimanjaro.jpg

 

Then it is high time to explore Switzerland this year.

 

Matterhorn from Domhütte - 2.jpg

 

I have longed to leave Switzerland for quite some time now.

 

Swiss International Air Lines 4-Star Airline Rating - Skytrax

 

I have found that getting sufficient teaching hours more difficult here than I had found in Germany where I had previously lived.

And as good as I was at my job at Starbucks, it had been intended only as a temp job to supplement my income when teaching hours were limited.

I thought of leaving Switzerland to teach in another country.

 

How Long Does it Take to Get a Canadian Passport- VisaGuide.World

 

I thought of South Korea, Vietnam and Turkey as possible options and had even been a good candidate for a position in Turkey, when two things blocked that notion.

 

Classic Scene #5: Good Morning Vietnam | Movies | Empire

 

First, I was informed that the longest amount of time I was allowed to leave Switzerland without losing my residence/work visa in Switzerland was five months.

The usual minimum amount of time demanded by a school is six months.

 

General visa requirements for Switzerland, Visas in Switzerland

 

Second, the corona pandemic struck, leaving me trapped within Swiss borders until the government sees fit to reopen the borders and to release grounded airlines from airports.

 

Consulate General of Switzerland in Dubai

 

I am 55 and though my life is certainly far from over (at least one hopes), age discrimination is definitely a factor in the Swiss employment market.

So, I can only hope that Starbucks will take me back once corona restrictions have eased or I find other employment elsewhere in teaching or gastronomy.

 

Starbucks Corporation Logo 2011.svg

Above: Starbucks logo

 

The third option is to make money through my writing.

 

This third option was always burdened with the basic question:

About what should I write?

 

Getting rid of Writer's block – MakeMyAssignments Blog

And through the inspiration of Ms. Lanz and Ms. Woolf I believe I have found my answers.

 

Like Ms. Lanz I will write articles and travel books about what I personally discover here in Switzerland (for now) and abroad (hopefully in the future).

 

When is the best time to visit Switzerland? - Holidays to Switzerland

 

Like Ms. Woolf, the novel (hopefully one of many) I am planning will borrow from someone else’s style, but for me not of James Joyce’s Ulysses or Virginia Woolf’s Mrs. Dalloway, but rather from the style of Charles Dickens’ The Pickwick Papers in the spirit of his The Uncommercial Traveller.

 

The Uncommercial Traveller eBook by Charles Dickens ...

 

Allow me to introduce myself – first negatively.

No landlord is my friend and brother, no chambermaid loves me, no waiter worships me, no boots admires and envies me.

No round of beef or tongue or ham is expressly cooked for me, no pigeon pie is especially made for me, no hotel advertisement is personally addressed to me, no hotel room tapestried with great coats and railway wrappers is set apart for me, no house of public entertainment in the United Kingdom greatly cares for my opinion of its brandy or sherry.

When I go upon my journeys, I am not usually rated at a low figure in the bill.

When I come home from my journeys, I never get any commission.

I know nothing about prices, and should have no idea, if I were put to it, how to wheedle a man into ordering something he doesn’t want.

As a town traveller, I am never to be seen driving a vehicle externally like a young and volatile pianoforte van, and internally like an oven in which a number of flat boxes are baking in layers.

As a country traveller, I am rarely to be found in a gig, and am never to be encountered by a pleasure train, waiting on the platform of a branch station, quite a Druid in the midst of a light Stonehenge of samples.

And yet – proceeding now, to introduce myself positively – I am both a town traveller and a country traveller, and am always on the road.

Figuratively speaking, I travel for the great house of Human Interest Brothers, and have rather a large connection in the fancy goods way.

Literally speaking, I am always wandering here and there from my rooms in Covent Garden, London – now about the city streets: now, about the country by-roads – seeing many little things, and some great things, which, because they interest me, I think may interest others.

These are my chief credentials as the Uncommercial Traveller.

 

Charles Dickens Coffee House, Covent Garden – Viktoria Jean

 

Imagine a journey across Switzerland in a manner similar to The Pickwick Papers searching for human interest stories.

 

The Pickwick Papers

 

We had intended a simple walk.

Instead I found….

Inspiration.

 

4 Ways To Disconnect And Reclaim Your Sense Of Discovery

 

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Manuela Olgiati, “Fischingens Fische: Corinne Lanz hat ihre Maturaarbeit zu einem Buch ausgebaut. Entstanden ist ein Reiseführer der etwas anderen Art.”, Thurgauer Zeitung, 16 May 2020.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scribe’s honour

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Monday 18 March 2019

With rare exception, I am up and about at 5 am every morning, and, yes, some mornings are harder than others.

I write with a PC in a cluttered room in our apartment, but there is no one correct way to go about this business of writing.

I get up at this ungodly hour every morning, because, like Louisa May Alcott, I want to do something splendid, something heroic or wonderful that won’t be forgotten after I am dead.

I want to, I have to, write.

I think anyone can write, but not everyone is a talented writer, not everyone is a writer of originality, so my blogs are my mental fitness gym.

 

Gold's Gym logo.svg

 

Sometimes the events of my own personal life inspire me.

Sometimes events in the news are my food for thought.

Sometimes personal events are too personal to share.

Sometimes news events are felt too personally.

 

 

For example, problems I might have at home or at work silently scream for expression, but doing so would risk domestic harmony and my employment.

Or family and friends’ secrets might make for interesting copy, but doing so risks my relationship with them.

 

 

News cries out for expression, but I often wonder:

Can I actually add anything original to the analysis of these events?

 

For example, two recent major news items leap to mind:

  • A tragic plane crash in Ethiopia
  • A massacre of worshippers in mosques in Christchurch, New Zealand

The mind has difficulty with such devastation and destruction never experienced to such a degree in one’s own life.

 

 

Add to this, the distance between my abode and the events’ locations.

Had the plane crashed at Zürich Airport or the attack occurred in our tiny medieval chapel in Landschlacht I would have identified with the events more intimately, for Zürich Airport and Landschlacht are more intimately understood.

 

Nonetheless I understand sorrow in exotic Ethiopia or death in distant New Zealand, for death and sorrow are emotions understood and felt universally.

I speak of Ethiopia and New Zealand on emotionally spontaneous social media, but I hesitate to speak of these here until I have had an opportunity to let these events mull around my mind for a while.

 

I will only say here and now that every death diminishes us and that thoughts and prayers are little consolation to those grieving with the loss of their loved ones.

 

 

I do wonder how someone like Charles Dickens might have described such events.

 

In an 1866 letter to Mrs. Brookfield, Dickens suggested that:

You constantly hurry your narrative by telling it, in a sort of impetuous breathless way, in your own person, when the characters should tell it and act it for themselves.

 

I think he probably would have written of these events differently than a journalist too preoccupied with satisfying editorial slant rather than telling the stories in ways universally understood.

 

Charles Dickens

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

 

Take, for example, the 10 March 2019 crash of Ethiopian Airlines Flight 102.

We read that 157 people died.

 

Ethiopian Airlines ET-AVJ takeoff from TLV (46461974574).jpg

 

We learn that many of the passengers were travelling to Nairobi to attend the 4th session of the United Nations Environment Assembly, but we still haven’t heard whether the plane crash was an accident or whether it was deliberate sabotage with the UN passengers as targets.

 

Were there others flying from Addis Ababa to Nairobi unconnected to the UN?

Are they not worth mentioning?

 

Flag of the United Nations

 

We learn that there were 32 Kenyans, 18 Canadians, 9 Ethiopians, and others of 32 other nationalities who died in the crash.

We learn much about the Italian archaeologist and the Canadian academic, and much about the Slovak politician who lost his family in the crash and the Greek man who missed the flight and the disaster.

 

But what of the Kenyans?

What of the Ethiopians?

Africa (orthographic projection).svg

 

The plane crashed near the village of Tulu Fara.

We learn nothing of these villagers.

Did they witness the crash?

Did they rush to the scene?

Was anyone on the ground hurt in the crash?

We may never know.

 

Image result for tulu fara images

 

A nation’s tragedy educates the world as to the identities of the Ethiopian Prime Minister and President.

But, a week later, does anyone outside of Ethiopia remember their names (Abiy Ahmed and Muhammadu Buhari) now?

Location of Ethiopia

 

The only thing we now know is to try and place the blame on the plane manufacturers for the crash and ground the Boeing 737 MAX 8 (and in many cases all MAX variants) from most airlines and countries.

 

After all, it must look like something is being done, even if it is after it is too late.

 

How this will help the grieving loved ones of the deceased is never mentioned.

 

WS YYC 737 MAX 1.jpg

 

And Tulu Fara is quickly forgotten as attention is distracted by events five days later in Christchurch.

 

Canterbury Mosque 12 June 2006 (adjusted levels).jpg

 

The Christchurch mosque shootings were two consecutive terrorist mass shootings at Al Noor Mosque and the Linwood Islamic Centre in Christchurch, New Zealand, during Friday prayers on 15 March 2019.

The attack resulted in 50 people killed and at least 50 others injured.

The suspected perpetrator was arrested and charged with murder.

The first attack was live streamed on Facebook Live.

 

Facebook Logo (2015) light.svg

 

A gunman began shooting worshippers at the Al Noor Mosque on Deans Avenue, Riccarton, at around 1:40 p.m.

 

He was described in media reports as a 28-year-old Australian white supremacist who used neo-Nazi symbols.

 

Flag of the NSDAP (1920–1945).svg

 

Between three to five hundred people may have been inside the mosque, attending Friday prayers, at the time of the shooting.

 

 

A neighbour of the mosque told reporters that he witnessed the shooter flee the mosque and drop what appeared to be a firearm in the driveway while he fled.

The neighbour said that the shooter appeared to be wearing military-style clothes.

After the shooting ended, the neighbour went inside to help the victims.

 

Jewish group reciprocates kindness to the Muslim community in New Zealand after massacre

 

The gunman live streamed the first 17 minutes of the attack on Facebook Live, starting with the drive to the mosque and ending with the drive away.

 

Christchurch Mosque on Deans Ave.

 

Moments before the shooting, the perpetrator—seated in his car—played both a traditional marching song of the British military called “The British Grenadiers” and “Serbia Strong“, a Serb nationalist song from the Bosnian War (1992–1995) celebrating Radovan Karadžić, who was found guilty of genocide against Bosnian Muslims.

 

RadovanKaradzic.jpg

Above: Radovan Karadžić

 

(Of course, we needed to be informed of the shooter’s musical choices, and I bet what will be remembered will be the Serbian song and not the Grenadier tune.)

 

Just before the shooting, the gunman appeared to be greeted by one of the worshippers, who said “Hello, brother” and was amongst the first people to be killed.

 

 

The live streamed footage also showed that the gunman shot at other people in the area, before driving away, having spent about six minutes at the mosque.

 

Christchurch shootings timeline

 

The footage stopped as he was driving along Bealey Avenue, heading in the direction of the Linwood Islamic Centre.

 

 

Police were alerted to the shooting at 1:53 p.m.

 

A police officer secures the area in front of the Masjid al Noor mosque.

 

A second shooting occurred at about 1:55 p.m. at the Linwood Islamic Centre, a mosque 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) away from Al Noor.

Seven people were killed there.

 

The mosque’s acting imam Latef Alabi credited a worshipper named Abdul Aziz for stopping the attack before the gunman could enter the mosque.

At that point, the gunman had already shot several people from outside the mosque.

Aziz related the following account in an interview:

He grabbed a credit card machine and ran out screaming from the mosque to confront the gunman outside.

As the gunman went back to his car, Aziz threw the machine at him.

The gunman later chased and fired at Aziz, who took cover among the cars and retrieved an empty shotgun the gunman had dropped.

When the gunman returned to his car again, Aziz threw the shotgun and shattered the car’s windshield, causing the attacker to curse and drive away, despite Aziz’s efforts to chase him.

 

A close up of Abdul Aziz, who has dark brown eyes, dark hair flecked with grey, and light stubble.

Above: Abdul Aziz

 

(If the Alabi account is accurate, then Aziz was either extremely brave or extremely foolish to tangle an armed man without a weapon.)

 

Image result for imam latif alabi pictures

Above: Nigerian-born Imam Latef Alabi (blood-stained)

 

Two improvised explosive devices were found attached to a vehicle and were subsequently defused by the New Zealand Defence Force.

No explosives were found on the gunman.

 

Nzdf-logo-small

 

The attack killed 50 people:

  • 42 at Al Noor Mosque
  • 7 at the Linwood Islamic Centre
  • 1 who died in Christchurch Hospital.

 

The age range of the victims was 3 at the youngest, with the oldest being 60.

 

From Police Commissioner Mike Bush’s update, 10 a.m. local time on 17 March 2019:

  • 50 people were injured
  • 36 people were being treated for gunshot wounds at Christchurch Hospital, two of whom were in a serious condition, with one child at Starship children’s hospital in Auckland.

 

In the wake of the attacks, dozens of people remain missing and several diplomatic offices and foreign ministries released statements concerning the number of victims from their nations.

The police have requested registration of missing people or those listed as missing identifying themselves to be safe be done online.

A list of missing people has been published by New Zealand Red Cross and includes nationals of countries like Afghanistan, Bangladesh, India, Jordan, Pakistan and Saudi Arabia.

 

The dead included:

  • Daoud Nabi, 71, a retired engineer who emigrated to New Zealand from Afghanistan with two sons as an asylum seeker in 1977 during the Soviet invasion.Afghan native Daoud Nabi settled in New Zealand in 1977.
  • Naeem Rashid, 50, who came from Pakistan and served as an academic at Christchurch UniversityNaeem Rashid, 50, was killed, along with his 21-year-old son, Talha.
  • Talha Rashid, 21, son of Naeem Rashid, was a student at the same university
  • Khaled Mustafa, a Syrian refugee who emigrated to New Zealand in 2018 along with his family.Syrian refugee Khaled Mustafa settled in New Zealand with his family last year.
  • Hamza Mustafa, 14, son of Khaled Mustafa.
  • Mucad Ibrahim, 3, was the youngest victim of the massacre at An-Noor Mosque
  • Abdullahi Dirie, 4, Abdullahi’s family had made their home in New Zealand after fleeing Somalia in the mid-1990s as refugees.
  • Sayyad Milne, 14, a high school student
  • Hosne Ara Parvin, 42, who moved to New Zealand from Bangladesh, is reported to have leapt in front of the gunman to shield her husband Farid Uddin, taking the full force of the bullets.
  • Mohammad Atta Alayan, Palestinian refugee who helped raise funds to build the mosqueAtta Elayyan, 33, is survived by his young family.
  • Above: Atta Alayan (centre)

 

  • Haroon Mahmood, a PhD student from Pakistan
  • Husna Ahmed, 45, a Bangladeshi immigrant
  • Syed Areeb Ahmed, a Pakistani immigrant
  • Farhaj Ahsan, 30, a software engineer who moved to New Zealand from India.
  • Ali Elmadani, a retired engineer who immigrated with his wife from the United Arab Emirates in 1998.
  • Mohammad Imran Khan, the owner of an Indian restaurant in Christchurch.
  • Junaid Mortara, 35
  • Lilik Abdul Hamid, a longtime aircraft maintenance engineer at Air New Zealand
  • Amjad Hamid, 57, a heart surgeon who worked at Hāwera Hospital in South Taranaki and moved to New Zealand from Palestine with his family in the 1990s.
  • Hussain al-Umari, 35, immigrated from the United Arab Emirates in the 1990s

 

(Sadly, their names will be quickly forgotten.

 

First, because the world will never be without horror and tragedy to distract us from Christchurch just as Christchurch distracted us from Tulu Fara.

 

Second, and forgive me my cynicism here, their names are not western sounding enough nor were they western-born to hold the western media’s attention – or ours – for long.)

 

 

Brenton Harrison Tarrant, a 28-year-old Australian, is suspected of carrying out the attack.

 

He was arrested on Brougham Street by two “rural community” police officers 36 minutes after the first emergency call.

Mobile phone footage showed his car had been rammed against the kerb by police before his arrest at gunpoint.

 

New Zealand Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern stated that he had been planning to continue the attack.

 

Jacinda Ardern, 2018.jpg

Above: New Zealand Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern in 2018

 

Tarrant appeared in the Christchurch District Court on 16 March, where he was charged with murder and remanded in custody.

During his court appearance, he smirked at the media and made a gesture.

 

 

(Tarrant, the star of his own drama….)

 

The case was transferred to the High Court with his next appearance scheduled for 5 April 2019.

 

At the time of the attack, Tarrant was living in Andersons Bay, Dunedin.

He had worked as a personal trainer in Grafton, New South Wales, Australia, from 2009 to 2011.

No mosque

He started visiting many countries in Asia and Europe around about 2012.

Authorities in Bulgaria and Turkey are investigating his visits to their respective nations.

Tarrant had become obsessed with terrorist attacks committed by radical Islamists in Europe in 2016 and 2017.

He started planning a revenge attack about two years prior to the attack and chose his targets three months in advance.

Security officials suspect he had come into contact with far-right organisations about two years before the shooting while visiting European nations.

 

(Is anybody watching these organizations?)

 

Tarrant recorded his beliefs in a 73-page manifesto titled “The Great Replacement“, a reference to the Great Replacement and white genocide conspiracy theories.

It expresses several anti-immigrant sentiments including hate speech against migrants, white supremacist rhetoric and calls for non-European immigrants “invading his land” to be removed.

Tarrant describes himself as an ethno-nationalist.

 

(I describe him as a racist a**h***.)

 

Nine minutes before the attacks, Tarrant sent the manifesto by email to over 30 recipients, including the Prime Minister’s office, the parliamentary tour desk and several media outlets.

 

Above: New Zealand Parliament Buildings, Wellington

 

He also shared links to the manifesto on Twitter and 8chan immediately before the attack.

 

(Hey, everybody, look at me!)

 

It says he began planning an attack two years earlier and chose the Christchurch location three months earlier.

He stated that he targeted Muslims as a form of “revenge against Islam for 1,300 years of war and devastation that it has brought upon the people of the West and other peoples of the world.”

 

(Somehow the millennia of war and devastation that the West has brought upon other peoples of the world escaped Tarrant’s attention.)

 

 

The live stream was re-posted on many video streaming services including LiveLeak and YouTube.

Police, Muslim advocacy groups and government agencies urged anyone who finds the footage to take it down or report it.

 

Some media organisations in Australia and tabloid newspaper websites in the United Kingdom broadcast parts of the live stream, up to the point the gunman entered the building, despite pleas from New Zealand police not to show it.

As a result, New Zealand’s Sky Television temporarily pulled Sky News Australia off its channel offerings and stated they were working with Sky News Australia to prevent further displays of the video.

New Zealand’s Internet service providers have taken steps to block access to 8chan and other hate crime-based sites related to the attack.

 

Sky News Live logo.jpg

 

More globally, social sites including Facebook, YouTube, Reddit and Twitter stated they were working diligently to remove the video of the attack from their platforms and would also remove anything supporting the attacks.

 

Reddit banned subreddits named “WatchPeopleDie” and “Gore“, claiming the threads had glorified the attacks in violation of user agreements.

Reddit logo

 

(Seriously, how mentally disturbed must one be to create such threads?)

 

(At what point will social media take responsibility for what it allows distributed?

Christchurch mosques massacre streamed live….

What kind of a sick person wants glory for slaughtering unarmed worshippers?

What kind of incompetence and irresponsibility lets a social medium be so unscrupulous as to allow anything online regardless of what it is?

Freedom of expression needs to be balanced by social responsibility.

Those who advocate hate and violence and intolerance should not have a voice to do so.

Freedom of expression should be more life affirming.

If it is not, than it is expression seeking to seize freedom away from others.

When freedom of expression means the removal of freedom from fear, then that expression is no longer freedom.

It is oppression.)

 

Prime Minister Ardern called the incident an “act of extreme and unprecedented violence” and said “this is one of New Zealand’s darkest days.”

She also described it as “a terrorist attack” and said that it appeared to have been well-planned.

Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern

(Who outside New Zealand will remember her name next week?)

 

Christchurch mayor Lianne Dalziel stated that she never thought “anything like this” could happen in New Zealand, saying “everyone is shocked“.

Image result for Lianne Dalziel photos

(Who outside Christchurch will remember the Mayor next week?)

 

Elizabeth II said she was “deeply saddened” by the attack.

 

A photograph of Queen Elizabeth II; she appears happy.

Above: Elizabeth II in 2015

 

Many other politicians and world leaders condemned the attacks, with many world leaders attributing the attack to rising Islamophobia.

 

 

(But what will be done to counter this rising Islamophobia?

Not much, I’m afraid.)

 

 

In the United Kingdom, flags were also briefly flown at half mast on government buildings.

MI5 also launched an enquiry into the perpetrator’s links to the British far-right.

 

A flag featuring both cross and saltire in red, white and blue

 

(Let’s close the barn door after the barn has burnt down, eh?)

 

UK Home Secretary, Sajid Javid, warned social media firms that they would face the “force of the law” if they did not do more and announced a forthcoming ‘online harms white paper‘.

The policy is expected to introduce legal regulation of online publishers and social media, including new censorship rules.

 

Official portrait of Sajid Javid MP.jpg

Above: Sajid Javid

 

(Everyone, look busy!

Look like you are acting responsibly!)

 

Just before carrying out the attack the gunman said:

Remember, lads, subscribe to PewDiePie.“, referring to Swedish YouTube personality Felix Kjellberg.

Kjellberg posted on Twitter:

I feel absolutely sickened having my name uttered by this person.“, and gave his condolences to those affected.

 

PewDiePie at PAX 2015 crop.jpg

 

(Who is Kjellberg anyway?

And why should he matter?)

 

More controversially, Queensland Senator Fraser Anning made a statement that shifted the blame onto Muslim immigrants, likening Islam to fascism.

 

Fraser Anning on The Unshackled Waves.jpg

Above: Fraser Anning

 

(Because blaming the victims is always easier than admitting that terrorist acts are committed by non-Islamics as well.)

 

Gun laws in New Zealand came under scrutiny in the aftermath, specifically the legality of military-style semi-automatic weapons, compared to Australia which banned them after the 1996 Port Arthur Massacre.

 

(The Port Arthur massacre of 28–29 April 1996 was a mass shooting in which 35 people were killed and 23 wounded in Port Arthur, Tasmania.

The murderer, Martin Bryant, pleaded guilty for the incident and was given 35 life sentences without possibility of parole.

It is the deadliest mass shooting in Australian history.

Fundamental changes of gun control laws within Australia followed the incident.

The case is regarded to be amongst the most notable massacres in Australia’s history.)

 

As gun policy specialist Philip Alpers noted:

New Zealand is almost alone with the United States in not registering 96% of its firearms — and those are its most common firearms, the ones most used in crimes.

If Tarrant went to New Zealand to commit these crimes, one can assume that the ease of obtaining these firearms may have been a factor in his decision to commit the crime in Christchurch.

 

Blue field with the Union Flag in the top right corner, and four red stars with white borders to the right.

 

(Exactly how dangerous do New Zealanders believe living in New Zealand to actually be?)

 

Prime Minister Ardern announced:

Our gun laws will change.

Now is the time.

People will be seeking change and I am committed to that.

 

(Perhaps New Zealand will follow the Australian example.

 

A blue field with the Union Flag in the upper hoist quarter, a large white seven-pointed star in the lower hoist quarter, and constellation of five white stars in the fly – one small five-pointed star and four, larger, seven-pointed stars.

 

I do wonder:

How many more must die before America changes theirs?)

 

Flag of the United States

 

Attorney-General David Parker was later quoted as saying that the government will ban semi-automatic guns, but later walked back on this statement, saying that the government had not yet committed to anything and that regulations around semi-automatic weapons was “one of the issues” the government would consider.

 

(I wonder:

How much time will pass before government commitment and after government consideration?)

 

I believe, despite how horrific and terrible the events of Tula Fara and Christchurch were, that the public needs to be informed.

But I feel I must question the honour, methods and motives of those who do the informing.

 

 

Information should be fair and balanced.

Information should focus on the humanity of everyone and not just on the commentary of those who wield fame or power.

Don’t tell me 157 passengers died without making me deeply feel their loss.

 

Aerial overview over crash site

 

Show me their humanity, whether they lived humble lives or not, and how their lives were important to others.

Show me how their humanity is linked with mine instead of emphasizing how different they are from me or ignoring them completely because they are not from around here, don’t look as we do or practise what we do.

 

"The Blue Marble" photograph of Earth, taken by the Apollo 17 mission. The Arabian peninsula, Africa and Madagascar lie in the upper half of the disc, whereas Antarctica is at the bottom.

 

How is the sorrow of a Kenyan widow so substantially different than that of a Canadian widow?

Why is a politician’s loss more newsworthy than a street cleaner’s loss?

 

Certainly inform me of the acts of the insane and the criminal, but rather than giving them the exaggerated media attention they crave, instead balance the reporting of the bad with an accounting of the life-affirming good that many, that most, people do.

 

Stop promoting only exceptional fear and irrational hate.

 

Show me more common courage and longlasting love.

Show me the love and support that the Muslim community has for their fellow human beings.

Show me the love and support that the citizens of Christchurch will probably show, without prompting, to those who worship in the Islam faith amongst them.

Show me that readers matter more than management or advertisers, people more than profit.

 

Let us not only be all Americans when a 9/11 happens or all Parisians when a Charlie Hebdo is attacked.

Let us also be Ankarans when a bombing takes innocent Turkish lives.

Let us also be Kenyans when a plane crash takes Kenyan victims.

Let us love one another wherever and whomsoever they may be, because we are all mortal human beings.

Let us hate the actions of one person, rather than condemn entire groups based on the actions of one person.

Let us judge a person by how similar they are to us not by how different they are.

 

The press, the media, could be a great force for positive progress on the planet.

Instead they perpetuate the preservation of much that is wrong with the world.

 

We all know the world is far from being a perfect place.

What we need from our information sources is the knowledge and the hope that it can be a paradise for everyone.

 

Sources: Wikipedia / Google

 

 

 

Dickensian elephants

Landschlacht, Switzerland, 4 – 18/19 April 2018

Being a writer, or in my case an unpaid blogger, ain´t easy.

Not only does a writer, especially the struggling beginner, have to physically juggle the obligations of paid (i.e. not writing) employment and domestic duties (in my case, set out by She Who Must Be Obeyed), but mentally there is the ongoing juxtaposition between a famine of fresh ideas and the cacophony of old and new ideas clamouring for the writer´s mental concentration.

In my non-writing life there are constantly new challenges I have to deal with.

At home I need to deal with computer repairs, tax preparation and housecleaning.

In my worklife as a teacher I desperately try to cling to what little teaching contracts I have while trying to cultivate others.

As a barista my sense of responsibility has given me the reputation of reliability so what should only be a two or three day Starbucks work week invariably is a 5-day or 6-day work week.

In my writing life (the reason I isolate myself inside the apartment today instead of enjoying the beautiful weather outside), in this blog I try to maintain an ongoing electronic journal that captures the immediacy of Now with the reflection of events sometimes a fortnight old.

In my other blog, The Chronicles of Canada Slim, I concurrently run travel essays about London, Italy, Switzerland and recently Serbia.

Sometimes my brain hurts.

Those who have been following my other blog are beginning to learn of my travels and discoveries in Serbia (4 – 9 April).

Now the dateline of this blog and those aforementioned Serbian adventures being described in my other blog collide….

(For details of the journey from Landschlacht to Our House of Meat in Belgrade, please see Canada Slim and the Land of Long Life in my other blog.)

 

As my regular readers know, your friendly neighbourhood blogger is a creature of habit.

(Pitying my wife at this point is natural!)

I normally on Monday to Friday try to pick up the latest copies of 20 Minuten, Blick am Abend, Thurgau Zeitung, the Times (of London) and the New York Times.

On the weekend there is no 20 Minuten or Blick.

On Sunday I try to pick up the NZZ (Neue Züricher Zeitung) am Sonntag.

But leaving Switzerland for Serbia via Germany brings a spin of serendipity to my news-gathering capabilities.

 

Memmingen, Germany to Belgrade, Serbia, 4 April 2018

Before leaving the Helvetic Confederation I managed to pick up copies of 20 Minuten, the Thurgau Zeitung and the New York Times.

In Germany I spontaneously bought at Memmingen Airport a copy of the Memmingen Zeitung.

These four papers of two different languages would make for an interesting reading experience aboard my flight and in the guestroom / children´s room of my Serbian friend Nesha´s Belgrade flat.

This would be the last day for almost a week before I would encounter a newspaper in either English or German.

What was gleaned from these precious last papers read repeatedly over the next six days would affect my thoughts and feelings during my Serbian sojourn and my present day (18/19 April) reactions.

There are so many things I could write about today (18/19 April) from the papers of 4 April:

  • The YouTube shooting of 3 May
  • The high expenses that Trump cost Switzerland when he attended the World Economic Forum (25 January)
  • A new book out about the philosopher Julien Offray de La Mettrie
  • The deliberate demonization being done by the Spanish government to the captive ex-President of Catalona Carles Puigdemont
  • The 50th anniversary of the assassination of US civil rights activist Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.
  • The Amriswiler who sheltered Jews during the Holocaust
  • The difficulty of repairing damaged artworks
  • The young genius who solved the riddle of the hourglass sands
  • The diaspora of data in Delhi
  • The caravans of migrants that leave central America and attempt to enter the United States
  • The latest news on Turkish President Recep Erdogan
  • The need to rename places
  • The demise of democracy
  • The tyranny of cheerleading
  • The Commonwealth Games
  • The Why Me? button for Facebook
  • The major obstacles to impeaching the Donald
  • Sex coaches in Thailand
  • The 50th anniversary of the film 2001: A Space Odyssey
  • Ongoing struggles along the Gaza Strip

But more than this I want to talk about a Dickesian idea practiced by a small German daily newspaper and elephants on the freeway….

 

In the humble Memmingen Zeitung, on the weather page beneath the forecast, an author (Hans Fallada) has been writing an ongoing novel in serial installments.

This is something I had heard of being common in and forgotten since the Victorian age.

 

For example, Charles Dickens published both his Sketches by Boz and The Pickwick Papers in serial form.

Dickens was, in my humble opinion, an amazing man.

Despite his lack of formal education, Dickens edited a weekly journal for 20 years, wrote 15 novels, 5 novellas, hundreds of short stories and non-fiction articles, lectured and performed readings extensively, was an indefatigable letter writer and campaigned vigorously for children´s rights, education and other social reforms.

His serial contributions contained cliffhanger endings, carefully constructed plots and the weaving of topical events into his narratives.

 

Now about those elephants on the freeway….

 

1630 hours, 2 April 2018, Highway A-30, Pozo Canada, Castilla La Mancha, SE Spain

The circus truck driver was impatient.

The car ahead was travelling too damn slow for his liking.

He manuevered the truck to overtake the slower vehicle, but as the truck attempted to reposition itself back upon the right lane of the freeway, the truck tipped over.

Behind the driver the truck was transporting five elephants.

One elephant was killed and two others were injured in the crash.

Traffic was blocked for two hours as three elephants wandered the highway.

One of the trio of pachyderms stumbled into a ditch, necessitating emergency workers to employ a crane to lift it out.

The truck driver was unharmed while the four surviving elephants were treated at a nearby industrial site.

The Spanish animal rights lobby PACMA denounced the incident and called for the end of animal uses in circuses.

Elephants should be in the jungle, not being transported to shows where they are mistreated.”

The group vowed to monitor the situation and stay informed on the status of the injured animals.

Monday´s incident marks the second time an incident of this sort has occurred in Spain.

On 20 March, neighbours in southwestern Extremadura encountered a one-ton escaped circus hippopotamus wandering around town.

 

I read this story and as much as my heart sympathizes with the plight of circus animals, my mind wonders what someone like Mark Twain or Charles Dickens would have done with this saga.

Would Twain have written about the escaped elephants much as he did about The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County?

Would Dickens have compared the plight of these pachyderm victims with that of Oliver Twist´s desitute English children?

 

The word Spain connected with elephants reminds me of Hannibal´s crossing the Alps with elephants from Spain and France into Italy.

An idea for a story comes to mind….

 

What if one of the elephants goes unaccounted for and is found by a sympathetic teenager?

He (only a guy would do something so foolhardy) decides to rescue the elephant from lifelong circus servitude by marching it over the Alps to an animal shelter in France.

He names the elephant Hannibal in honour of the historic Carthaginian General.

The duo are pursued by circus owners and police and assisted by sympathetic animal lovers and other folks they encounter on the way.

A showdown climax occurs at the shelter with police and circus owners standing off against activists.

Media attention and a sympathetic donor rescue the duo.

The elephant spends his days contentedly tended by the teenager at the animal shelter.

An idea made for a cheezy Hollywood B movie or what?

Research into elephants and the Alpine terrain would be necessary.

 

The Memmingen Zeitung serialist made me think of Dickens´ The Pickwick Papers, which tells the tale of the irrepressible Mr. Pickwick and his fellow Pickwick Club members who travel around the English countryside getting into all kinds of scrapes and adventures.

My mind and my wanderlust have long played with the idea of exploring Switzerland in the slowest possible ways: on foot and by Postbus.

A sort of a Magical Mystery Tour meets Into the Wild.

Could such a thing be attempted?

Should such an adventure be tried?

What if a crazy Canuck formed his own Coffeehouse Club and together they attempted to explore Switzerland the slow way?

The fictional travelling account could be my own real life solitary explorations.

My fictional fellow travellers and Coffeehouse Club members could be imitations of the characters I have known (partners and patrons) during my time at Starbucks.

The idea would be to see Switzerland through foreign eyes, written in a Pickwick Papers format.

I have been inspired.

 

On This Day (4 April)

1460  Founding of the University of Basel

1581  Queen Elizabeth I knights Francis Drake on the completion of his circumnavigation of the world

1774  Death of Irish novelist/poet/playwright Oliver Goldsmith (b. 1728)(She Stoops to Conquer)

1896  Gold discovered in the Yukon

1968  US civil rights activist Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. assassinated

1983  Launch of space shuttle Challenger on its maiden voyage

 

An Anthology of Diarists

1835

“I was told last night that the scene of noise and uproar which the House of Commons now exhibits is perfectly disgusting.

This used not to be the case in better, or at least more gentlemanlike, times.

No noises were permissable but the cheer and the cough, the former admitting every variety of intonation expressive of admiration, approbation, assent, denial, surprise, indignation, menace, sarcasm.

Now all the musical skill of this instrument is lost and drowned in shouts, hootings, groans, noises of the most discordant that the human throat can emit, sticks and feet beating against the floor.

Sir Hedworth Williamson, a violent Whig, told me that there were a set of fellows on his side of the House whose regular practice it was to make this uproar, with the settled design to bellow Peel down.

This is the reformed House of Commons.

(Charles Greville)