Canada Slim and the Universal Language

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Wednesday 14 December 2022

Go forth.“, the Prophet said.

Perform the march with bow and arrow.

Be in God’s protection and safety.

Receive these good tidings.

Of all the spirits you met in this assembly and whose hands you kissed, you are vouchsafed to visit their tombs.

You will be a world traveller and unique among men.

The well-protected kingdoms through which you pass, the fortresses and towns, the strange and wonderful moments, each land’s praiseworthy qualities and products, its food and drink, its latitude and longitude:

Record all of these and compose a wonderful work.

Make use of my weapon and become my son in this world and the next.

Do not abandon the path of truth.

Be free of envy and hatred.

Pay the due of bread and salt.

Be a faithful friend but no friend to the wicked.

Learn goodness from the good.

Evliya Çelebi, The Book of Travels

Sometimes a man just needs to be surrounded by beauty.

This is why it is nice to work in a school where half the staff and half of our students are female.

This is why it is nice to occasionally see the wife from time to time.

This is why, despite some standards of behaviour exhibited by the locals I could live without, I look forward to visiting Switzerland again at the beginning of next month.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Certainly the wife and I will do a spot of travelling – to Freiburg im Breisgau and Konstanz (Germany) and to Zürich (the New York of Switzerland) – but I am also looking forward to simply strolling upon country roads between the neighbouring village of Münsterlingen to the west of the hamlet (where our residence remains) and Altnau to the east.

Above: Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Rheintorturm (Rhine Gate Tower), Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Oberdorf (Upper Town), Altnau, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

I began, not so long ago, a travelogue of a journey from Landschlacht to Mürren, commencing with Landschlacht itself, for I seek to show my gentle readers that there is magic and depth in even the most mundane (at first glance) of ordinary communities – whether they be in Canada, Switzerland or Vietnam.

Above: Landschlacht (Münsterlingen), Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Mürren, Canton Bern, Switzerland

The first destination the traveller meets in leaving Landschlacht bound for Mürren via the scenic route is Altnau – “the next town over” as one might say in Canada.

Above: Beyond the bend of the highway, beneath the glory of the heavens, Altnau

Altnau is a town (and a municipality in the district of Kreuzlingen in the Canton of Thurgau in Switzerland.

Above: Coat of arms of Altnau

Above: Flag of Canton Thurgau

The Kirchdorf (church settlement) consists of the upper and lower villages and other settlements. 

Above: Swiss Reformed Church, Altnau

It is located on the old Romanshorn – Kreuzlingen Road near the southern shore of the Bodensee (Lake Constance) on the moraine of the former Rhine Glacier. 

Above: Harbour, Romanshorn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Kreuzlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Satellite image of the Bodensee (Lake Constance)

Above: Map of the Rhine Glacier

The actual centre of Altnau is around two kilometers from the shore of the Bodensee, at 471 metres above sea level. 

It borders on the municipalities of Güttingen, Langrickenbach and Münsterlingen. 

Above: Location of Altnau Municipality (in pink)

Altnau has a train station on the Kreuzlingen – Romanshorn railway (or to be precise, the Schaffhausen – Wil rail line).

Above: Altnau Station

Above: Schaffhausen, Canton Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Above: Wil, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

In 787 the village was first mentioned as Althinouva (Aldo’s land by the water).

In the 8th century, the Monastery of St. Gallen was made wealthy here. 

Above: Abbey Cathedral of St. Gallen, St. Gallen, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

In 1155, Emperor Frederick Barbarossa confirmed that the Cathedral in Konstanz owned the property rights to the Altnau court and church. 

Above: (seated) Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa (1122 – 1190)

Above: Konstanz Cathedral

The noble rights over the University of Konstanz lands here, which belonged to the Freiherren (free lords) von Altenklingen around 1300, passed to various Konstanz families in the Late Middle Ages (1378: family Schwarz / 1430: family Tettikofen / 1468 family Mangolt). 

Above: Logo of the University of Konstanz

From 1471 to 1798, Altnau was held by the city of Konstanz. 

Above: Coat of arms of the City of Konstanz

In 1454, Altnau was included in the Appenzeller Landrecht (law courts), but had to give these rights up after a complaint from the Cathedral chapter.

Above: Flag of Appenzell

The parish rights passed in 1347 from the Cathedral Provost to the Cathedral Dean. 

After the Reformation in 1528, the few Catholics that remained here were cared for from Konstanz, with the Altnau church shared between both Catholics and Protestants.

In 1810 the parity relationship was dissolved and two churches were built. 

Above: Martin Luther (1483 – 1546), pioneer of the Protestant Reformation

The rights of the village were first handed down in 1468. 

Above: Aerial view of Altnau (1924)

In the 19th century, farmers switched from three field grain production to livestock and dairy production.

Above: The three-field system of crop rotation

In 1880 a dairy company was established. 

The viticulture (wine industry), which had been in operation since the Middle Ages came to an end in 1912. 

Above: Altnau viticulture

Field fruit growing was documented in the 19th century:

After 1945, the high stems were replaced by extensive low stem cultures. 

Above: Altnau apple production

Like the Lake Road built around 1840, the Lake Rail Line opened in 1870 brought little upswing in the village because the station was too far away. 

All regional trains between Schaffhausen and Wil – via Kreuzlingen, Romanshorn and St.Gallen – stop at Altnau Station. 

Regional trains run every half hour.

Above: Two Thurbo GTW 2/6 crossing the bridge over the Rhine between Schaffhausen and Feuerthalen, Switzerland

Main road number 13 runs between the Town and the Lake, which leads from Schaffhausen via Kreuzlingen and on to Romanshorn and Rorschach.

There is a port, but no pier for scheduled boats on the Bodensee.

 

Above: Rorschach, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Until the middle of the 20th century, the village was heavily agricultural. 

Nevertheless, industry moved in. 

From 1870 to 1910, numerous Altnau residents worked as hand embroiderers, in 1882 and 1910 the Altwegg and Walser embroidery factories were established, and from 1883 to 1967 the Sallmann knitwear factory offered numerous jobs and employed 17 people in 1883, 60 in 1895 and 41 in 1923. 

The Setafil silk weaving mill, which opened in 1948, ceased production in 1974. 

Above: This 1881 painting (by Emil Rittmeyer) shows the embroidery world trade in the second half of the 19th century.

Left: Embroidery patterns, then factories, the locomotive used for transporting the goods, the installation of a telegraph line.

On the right side, the embroidery is presented to the representatives of all continents.

In 1977, a mechanical engineering company set up in the boatyard built in 1964. 

Above: Altnau Boatyard

In 2016, Altnau offered work to 577 people (converted to full-time positions). 

Of these, 12.9% worked in agriculture and forestry, 27.1% in industry, commerce and construction and 59.9% in the service sector. 

Worth mentioning are:

  • the Reformed Church
  • the Catholic Church 
  • the Apfelweg (Apple Trail), the first fruit nature trail in Switzerland, is a nine-kilometre-long circular route that leads through the local orchards and explains the path of the apple from blossom to fruit on 16 boards. 
  • the ship jetty, which has existed since 2010 and is 270 meters long due to the wide shallow water zone – making it the longest jetty on the Bodensee – it is nicknamed the Bodensee Eiffel Tower, because of its length

Above: Altnau Jetty

Above: Tour Eiffel, Paris, France

The Thurgau village of Altnau is surrounded by gently rolling apple orchards.

Altnau has been breeding, cultivating and processing Jonagold, Gala or Braeburn for generations. 

Above: Gala apples

Above: Braeburn apple

Visitors can find out why apples thrive particularly well here at the information boards along the Altnau Apple Trail. 

The revised adventure trail extends the previous fruit trail and can be explored on foot, by bike or in a horse-drawn carriage. 

Game tips and hands-on activities along the routes are aimed specifically at families with children. 

The tour is particularly beautiful during the apple blossom season in spring or harvest time in autumn.

The starting point of the Apple Trail is at the foot of Altnau, 500 meters from the train station. 

The Altnauer Apfelweg consists of three routes that can be combined to form circular routes of five, six or seven kilometres. 

There is an apple mascot for every path:

East of Altnau, the apple path meanders through the apple orchards beneath the bright red “Lisi” apple. 

The 14 stations tell exciting things about fruit growing and the work of the fruit growers all year round. 

The yellow route with the mascot “Fredi” leads through the middle of the village and presents different types of apples and pears. 

With riddles, recipes and anecdotes, every walk flies by. 

On the green “Emma” route west of Altnau, apple fans meet wild and honey bees and learn a lot about the Thurgau fruit region and the history and cultivation of the crunchy fruit. 

On the red and green routes, Lisi and Emma invite the children balancing on tree trunks, looking for fruit pairs or exploring the earth. 

Fredi inspires on the yellow route with variety information, puzzles and fun. 

The themed trail is varied and offers the best conditions for a trip with the whole family.

Apple path Lisi: The red route, four kilometers long, takes about two hours on foot or one hour by bike. It runs east of Altnau, the main focus is the work of the fruit growers.

Apple path Emma: The green, three-kilometre route takes about an hour and a half on foot and 40 minutes by bike. To the west of the village, she reveals interesting facts about fruit growing, the apple village of Altnau and Thurgau.

Apple path Fredi: The yellow route leads right through the village. Pedestrians need about an hour for the two kilometers. The path is not suitable for cyclists.

Farm shops, restaurants and pubs in and around Altnau offer sweet cider, apple rings and other delicious fruit creations. 

If you run out of breath on the way, you can rest on the numerous benches, rest areas and picnic areas along the route – mostly in front of a wonderful panorama of the Bodensee. 

A tip is the Feierlenhof in Altnau, where the Barth family has been welcoming guests to their own farm for several generations. 

A petting zoo delights children and animal lovers alike.

Above: Feierlenhof, Altnau

The Bodensee has always been considered a transport axis for a wide variety of goods, which were transported by barge. 

Since Eastern Switzerland mainly traded in textiles, it was dependent on a functioning trade in food stuffs, mainly grain. 

Due to the fluctuating water level between summer and winter, a summer and a winter landing site had to be built. 

A pier was built near today’s Altnau, the “Stelli“. 

With the onset of industrialization, ship trade became less relevant as the railroad was faster and easier. 

This also had an effect on the shipping trade on the Bodensee.

Winter ports were no longer used by ships, which is why the Stelli was destroyed by the water over time and sank.

Above: Construction of the Altnau Jetty

The Stelli, which can still be seen with the naked eye today, was examined in 2012 by a diving team from the Thurgau Archaeology Office, who measured the remains, had these results recorded and recovered samples for dating tree rings. 

The salvage showed that the Stelli was an L-shape with two legs, each 10 and 25 meters long. 

It consisted of spruce poles, which were fastened with the tops of the bottom of the lake.

Crosspieces and quarry stones were filled in between the posts.

Rorschach sandstone slabs were placed on top.

It is assumed that the origin of the Stelli goes back to the 17th century. 

The shore of the Municipality of Altnau stretches along the Obersee (upper part of the Bodensee) from northwest to southeast. 

The Altnauer Steg (jetty) is at a right angle to this, so it points to the northeast. 

By raising the ridge of the Lake, Altnau Harbour area is covered to the south and west.

Above: Altnau Jetty

The distance to the next town bordering the lake in the northwest, Kreuzlingen, is around 7.5 kilometers and to the next in the southeast, Romanshorn, around 10 kilometers. 

At least six kilometers must be covered to cross the Lake to Hagnau on the German side of the Bodensee.

Above: Hagnau am Bodensee, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

In contrast to other Swiss inland lakes, the Bodensee does not have a uniform shipping company, but rather several different shipping companies. 

This is due to the location of the Bodensee, because this (specifically the Obersee) is shared by the three countries Germany (Deutschland), Switzerland (Schweiz) and Austria (Österreich).

Above: Map of the Bodensee (Lake Constance)

During the shipping season, the Altnauer Jetty is used by the Romanshorn – Immenstaad – Hagnau – Altnau – Güttingen route.

Above: Immenstaad am Bodensee, Baden-Württemberg, Germany (in winter)

Above: Güttingen Castle, Güttingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

For residents of the municipality of Altnau and the surrounding area as well as for tourists, the footbridge serves as a good leisure offer. 

Provided with a bathing platform at the jetty, another one to the east and several descent possibilities, swimming in the Lake is made possible in the summer season. 

In the event of an emergency, rescue equipment for drowning people is distributed on the railing.

In addition, hobby anglers do not want to fish at the jetty.

Above: The way to Hagnau, Altnau Jetty

As early as 1994, a working group from the municipality of Altnau expressed the desire for a new shipping pier. 

The purpose behind this was that the attractiveness of the community should be promoted. 

In Altnau there is a very large campground, which is particularly busy in the height of summer. 

In this season many people in Altnau go to the Lake to swim. 

Altogether there are up to 2,000 people in the vicinity of the port during the warmest time of the year.

A positive factor was that, according to a 2007 study for additional shipping piers on the Bodensee, Altnau was the location between Kreuzlingen and Horn that would have the lowest environmental impact. 

Shipping also benefited from the immediate increase in tourist attractiveness. 

Above: Horn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

At Altnau Harbour in the direction of the middle of the Lake there is a flat shore, which made the construction of such a long jetty necessary. 

The ground was measured and evaluated by means of probing in 2007. 

The Dr. Vollenweider organization divides the ground into three stratified phases:

  • Young lake deposits: Consisting of slightly clay, relatively fine sandy silt loosely layered with a high water concentration. The layer height is between two and three meters on the bank, further away it increases up to ten meters.
  • Postglacial lake deposits: Consisting of strong clay silts with little fine sand soft to slightly resistant. The layer height is about two meters at the bank and increases up to six meters at a greater distance.
  • Moraine: Consisting of little clay, very silty-fine sand with a high proportion of gravel and stones

Above: Harbour, Altnau

The walkable area of ​​the jetty is 398 meters above sea level and therefore around two meters higher than the summer water level. 

A height of 15 centimeters of concrete can be seen on the side.

The maximum height is 35 centimeters. 

The bridge is founded with hollow concrete piles, each with a diameter of 35 centimetres. 

These stand in pairs 12 meters apart. 

While the western stake is driven vertically into the ground, the eastern stake has a 5º inclination.

The moraine, which is not too deep, is responsible for holding and fixing these.

Barriers are installed on both sides along the jetty. 

The two railings vary from each other. 

The western railing is half solid / half transparent, with a guided chrome steel handrail. 

On the one hand, this heavily protected site is intended to provide security.

On the other hand, it is to prevent disturbances to aquatic animals.

The eastern side, on the other hand, is supported only by longitudinal wire cables – no handrail. 

There is a gap in the area of ​​the bathing platform so that access to it is freely possible.

Above: Altnau Jetty

Canton Thurgau Facts:

  • 900 km of marked cycle paths
  • 1,000 km of hiking trails
  • 150 km of inline skating routes
  • 72 km of shoreline on Lake Constance
  • 200 kinds of apples
  • 210,000 standard apple trees
  • 1,600 hectares of orchards

Romping about in flowering meadows, playing knights and experiencing unforgettable farm adventures:

In Thurgau, even young visitors never get bored. 

The idyllic surroundings and a wide range of leisure activities ensure lots of holiday fun. 

With over 72 kilometers of shoreline, Thurgau also has the longest bathing beach on the Bodensee

The landscape is green and flat everywhere – ideal for bike tours with the family.

When swimming, hiking or cycling, holiday guests can feel nature up close. 

The southern part of the Bodensee stretches out in lush greenery:

Meadow orchards let the petals dance in spring.

In autumn the fruit falls heavily onto the grass.

Anyone who drives further up into the hills will experience new perspectives and very special adventures. 

The ancient cultural landscape also harbors a wealth of treasures:

From pile dwellings to Roman forts, medieval chapels and monasteries to imperial parks and gardens.

First-class wines from local winegrowers, fresh fish from the Bodensee and a multitude of other culinary specialties spoil the palate in Thurgau. 

Whether gourmet restaurant, country inn or rustic Buure-Beiz – Thurgau makes connoisseurs’ hearts beat faster. 

Excellent wines also thrive on the vineyard slopes along the Untersee (Lower Lake), the Rhine and also on sunny Ottenberg near Weinfelden. 

The grape variety Müller Thurgau, which is also called Riesling Sylvaner in this country, has its origins in Thurgau.

Let us raise a glass in memory of one of Altnau’s own, Hans Baumgartner.

Hans Baumgartner (1911 – 1996) was a Swiss photographer and teacher.

Above: Hans Baumgartner

Hans Baumgartner was born in Altnau. 

He trained as a teacher at the Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen (teacher training college) and at the University of Zürich.

Above: Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen buildings constructed in the 1970s

Above: Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen in the former Kreuzlingen Monastery

Above: Logo of the University of Zürich

From 1937 until his retirement he worked as a teacher, until 1962 in Steckborn, later in Frauenfeld.

Above: Steckborn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Frauenfeld, capital of Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Baumgartner’s first photographs were taken in 1929.

Above: Zürich (1936), Hans Baumgartner photo

The journalist Arnold Kübler discovered him in the early 1930s. 

Above: Arnold Kübler

(Arnold Kübler (1890 – 1983) was a Swiss writer, draftsman and journalist. 

He founded the cultural magazine Du (you) in 1941.

Arnold Kübler grew up as the son of an innkeeper and farmer in Wiesendangen.

 

Above: Wiesendangen, Canton Zürich, Switzerland (1934)

He broke off his geology studies and training as a sculptor. 

After World War I, he worked as an actor in Dresden and Berlin. 

He had to give up this career in 1926 after an operation due to scars on his face. 

In 1927, he married Alva Jessen (1887 – 1965). 

The couple had three children: Jörn Kübler (1922 – 1975), Olaf Kübler (1924 – 1987) and Ursula Kübler (1928 – 2010). 

Above: Images of Dresden, Sachsen, Germany

Above: Berlin, Germany

Kübler was able to celebrate greater success with his literary and journalistic work. 

He was appointed editor-in-chief of the Zürcher Illustrierte (Zurich Illustrated) in 1929, which under his lead developed into a respected literary and photographic magazine.

He was convinced that a photograph can also be a vehicle of a message. 

He worked with prominent photographers Paul Senn and Gotthard Schuh among others.)

Above: Paul Senn

(Paul Senn (1901 – 1953) was a Swiss photographer.

After attending school in the city of Bern, Senn learned the trade of advertising draftsman and re-toucher around 1917. 

Above: Bern, Switzerland

After completing his education, he worked in various European cities and from 1922 as a graphic artist in Lyon, France. 

Above: Images of Lyon, France

In 1924, he became picture editor at the Basler Nachrichten (Basel News), where his first photos appeared. 

In 1927 and 1928 he stayed in Milan, Genoa, Germany, Belgium, France and Barcelona. 

Above: Images of Milano (Milan), Italy

Above: Piazza de Ferrari, Genova (Genoa), Italy

Above: Flag of Germany

Above: Flag of Belgium

Above: Flag of France

Above: Images of Barcelona, Spain

After these trips he opened his own graphics and advertising studio in Bern. 

In the 1930s, Senn worked as a photo reporter for the Zürcher Illustrierte and the Berner Illustrierte.

Senn traveled to France, Italy, Spain and the Balkans. 

Above: Flag of Italy

Above: Flag of Spain

Above: Map of the Balkan Peninsula

In 1937, Senn accompanied an aid convoy from the Swiss Aid Committee for the Children of Spain to the war zone of the Spanish Civil War and reported on it in a special issue of the Zürcher Illustrierte

Above: Images of the Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939)

In 1939, he travelled to the US.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

During the Second World War, Senn did active service as an army photographer in the Heer und Haus (Army and Home) division.)

Above: Bronze statue “Morning readiness“, erected in 1941 to celebrate the 650th anniversary of the Swiss Confederation in the park of the Federal Archives in Schwyz (Switzerland)

(In order to strengthen the spirit of the troops, Swiss Army General Henri Guisan ordered the formation of the Army and Home section, a kind of psychological service.

This had the task of maintaining the military will of the troops through lectures and entertainment, even during long military service. 

In the army order of 3 November 1939, he wrote: 

It is absolutely necessary that the troops, despite long service and regardless of the separation of family and work, maintain an elevated state of mind. 

Free from nagging doubts and discouragements, the soldier should maintain equanimity and confidence.

With the formula “Think Swiss and act Swiss”, the “civilian reconnaissance service expanded and launched a campaign to educate the civilian population. 

For this purpose, cadres were recruited from around news agencies and resistance organizations.

Above: Henri Guisan (1874 – 1960)

Army and Home tried to strengthen the will to resist in the population and to supplement the role of the war-censored press. 

Firstly, it was about the “communication of facts” from which the citizen should form his own opinion.

Secondly, the “communication of bases for the discussion” as a means of forming opinions in a democracy, in contrast to propaganda, agitation and terror, which are the methods used by totalitarian states to subdue their subjects.

It organized around 3,000 two-day educational courses, as well as lectures, performances, sporting events and film and radio screenings. 

The 200 voluntary speakers came from all political camps, regions and professions. 

For the lecturing activity of the commanders, Army and Home issued military service letters, which not only called for resistance against the totalitarian threat, but also took a stand for the old custom of granting asylum (December 1942) or against anti-Semitism (May 1943). 

More than 7,000 shop stewards recruited in the lectures distributed the documentation published by the Army and Home in their sphere of activity and gave regular feedback on the respective mood in the population.

In the army order of November 1939, Guisan also gave didactic instructions for Army and Home officers and the unit commanders:

I consider it essential that there is a clear separation between serious lectures, which require constant attention, and purely entertaining events. 

The former belong in working hours, the others in leisure time. 

Both are important, sometimes to teach, sometimes to amuse. 

Teaching does not mean imposing any theories, but rather stimulating thoughts and challenging reflections. 

It is a question of showing the team, above all using concrete examples, the tangible and spiritual reality of Switzerland, its honorable past, the military traditions, honoring our heroes, artists, scientists, pointing out the high level of culture that it has achieved and on to indicate their destiny in this world.

For the historian Peter Dürrenmatt and other contemporary observers, between 1941 and 1945, Army and Home made a decisive contribution to maintaining and strengthening intellectual resilience: 

One can say that never before in the history of the Confederation has there been a movement of anything remotely similar in creative unity existed, like those that formed around the Army’s reconnaissance service, around the idea of ​​’Army and Home’.)

Above: Peter Dürrenmatt (1904 – 1989)

(After the Zürcher Illustrierte was forced to cease publication in 1941, Senn worked for the Schweizer Illustrierte (Switzerland Illustrated) and for Sie + Er (She and He). 

From 1942 to 1944, Senn travelled to southern France several times and reported on the activities of Swiss relief organizations and the construction work in Lyon. 

Above: Lyon, France

After the end of the war in 1945, Paul Senn travelled to the European war zones on behalf of the Swiss Red Cross and the Swiss Donation to War Victims, taking photographs in France and Germany.

Above: Logo of the Swiss Donation

In 1946, Senn stayed in the US for Schweizer Illustrierte, visiting New York and the Swiss Colonies. 

Above: Harlem, New York City, New York, USA (1946) – Paul Senn photograph

(Most immigration from Switzerland took place mainly in the second half of the 19th century. 

The reasons for this were mostly economic in nature, Switzerland was considered one of the poorest countries in Europe at the time.

By 1820, around 25,000 Swiss had immigrated, mainly with the destination of Pennsylvania and the Carolinas. 

Above: Swiss migrants in the US (1946), Paul Senn photograph

In general, the target in the 19th century was the Midwest and the Pacific coast. 

The Italian-speaking Swiss preferred California. 

Some Swiss settlements were established, such as New Glarus (Wisconsin), Gruetli-Laager (Tennessee) and New Bern (North Carolina)(“the birthplace of Pepsi“). )

Above: Flag throwing and Alphorn blowing, New Glarus, Wisconsin, USA

Above: Historical marker, Gruetli-Laager, Tennessee, USA

Above: City Hall, New Bern, North Carolina, USA

Above: Classroom scene, New Bern

In 1947, Senn went to Finland and Germany at the invitation of the Swiss Donation and documented the reconstruction. 

Above: Flag of Finland

In 1950, trips to Germany, France, Italy and England followed. 

Above: Flag of England

In 1951, he founded the College of Swiss Photographers with Werner Bischof, Gotthard Schuh and Jakob Tuggener. 

In 1952 he became a member of the Schweizerischer Werkbund (SWB) (Swiss Work Association) (an association of artists, cultural mediators and other specialists in the field of design).

On 25 April 1953, Senn died of cancer in the Zieglerspital in Bern.)

Above: Zieglerspital (1868 – 2015), Bern, Switzerland

(Gotthard Schuh (1897 – 1969) was a Swiss photographer, painter and graphic artist.

Above: Gotthard Schuh

Gotthard Schuh was born in Berlin to Swiss parents. 

His father was the engineer Christian Heinrich Schuh. 

In 1902 the family moved to Aarau, where he attended school.

Above: Aarau, Canton Aargau, Switzerland

From 1914, he began to paint. 

In 1916, he graduated from the trade school (now the site of the Basel Trade Museum) in Basel. 

Above: Gewerbemuseum, Basel, Switzerland

In 1917, Schuh was drafted as a soldier for border service until the end of the First World War.

Above: Kilometre Zero -where the Swiss border met the Western Front, World War I (1914 – 1918)

From 1919, he lived as a painter in Basel and Geneva. 

Above: Basel, Switzerland

Above: Genève (Geneva), Switzerland

After a long trip to Italy in 1920, he settled in Munich as a painter. 

Above: München (Munich), Bayern (Bavaria), Germany

In 1926, he returned to Switzerland and became manager of a photo shop.

After his marriage in 1927 he moved to Zürich, where he began to take photographs. 

Various exhibitions as a painter followed from 1928 to 1931, during which time he joined the Basel artist group Rot-Blau (red-blue). 

Above: Albert Müller (1897 – 1926)(Rot-Blau), Vineyards in Ticino (1925)

In 1931 his first photos were published in the Zürcher Illustrierte.

 

Above: Gotthard Schuh photograph of Swiss author Friedrich Glauser (1896 – 1938), Zürcher Illustrierte, (3 December 1937)

A picture exhibition followed in Paris in 1932, where he met Pablo Picasso, Fernand Léger and Georges Braque.

Above: Spanish artist Pablo Picasso (1881 – 1973)

Above: French artist Fernand Léger (1881 – 1955)

Above: French artist Georges Braque (1882 – 1963)

From 1933 to 1939, Schuh worked as a freelance photojournalist for the Zürcher Illustrierte, Berliner Illustriete (1892 – 1945), Paris Match and Life (1883 – 2000). 

His reports took him all over Europe and to Indonesia. 

Above: Flag of the European Union

Above: Flag of Indonesia

From 1941 to 1960 he was picture editor at the Neue Züricher Zeitung (NZZ). 

From this period a significant part of his own photographic work illustrated books, of which the most successful was Inseln der Götter (Island of the Gods) published in 1941, the result of his almost 11-month journey through Singapore, Java, Sumatra and Bali undertaken just before the war. 

It was a mixture of reportage and self-reflection, with a poetic quality that, though individual images may be read either way, Schuh sometimes valued over documentary authenticity:

Everyone just depicts what he sees.

Everyone just sees what corresponds to his being.

In 1951, he founded the College of Swiss Photographers together with Werner Bischof, Paul Senn and Jakob Tuggener.

After 1960, Schuh turned to painting again. 

Schuh died in Küsnacht by the Zürchersee (Lake Zurich) in 1969.)

Above: Küsnacht, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

(Werner Bischof (1916 – 1954) was a Swiss photographer and one of the most famous photojournalists of the 20th century.

Above: Werner Bischof

Bischof, son of a merchant, grew up first in Zürich and Kilchberg (Canton Zürich) in Switzerland, but spent his school days in Waldshut (Germany). 

Above: Kilchberg, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Kaiserstrasse (Emperor Street), Waldshut, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

His father had been manager of a branch of a Zürich pharmaceutical factory there since 1922. 

This time was overshadowed by the early death of his mother. 

He attended teachers’ college in Schiers (Canton Graubünden) to become a drawing and physical education teacher. 

Above: Evangelische Mittelschule (EMS), Schiers, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

At the age of 16, Bischof switched to studying at the Zürich School of Applied Arts. 

In 1936, he received his diploma with distinction as a photographer and, after basic training with the Swiss Army, opened in Zürich a studio for fashion and advertising photography. 

After interludes as an employee at a Zurich publishing house, a freelance artist for the Swiss National Exhibition in 1939 and a graphic designer in Paris, he was drafted into military service in Switzerland in 1939. 

In short phases between military deployments, he devoted himself to photographing natural motifs.

In 1942, Bischof published his first photos in the then new monthly magazine Du.

In autumn 1945, he traveled to southern Germany, France and the Netherlands.

He was deeply moved by the hardship in the regions badly affected by the Second World War. 

On behalf of the Swiss Donation he reported on the victims of war-destroyed Europe.

Above: Boy drawing in the ruins, Freiburg im Breisgau, Werner Bischof photographer

In 1948, Bischof represented Time magazine at the St. Moritz Winter Olympics. 

In 1949, his documentary photographs were published in Life magazine.

Bischof joined the newly formed photographers’ cooperative Magnum Photos. 

From 1951, he traveled to the Middle East (famine in Bihar, India) and the Far East (Japan and Korea). 

Above: Seal of the Indian state of Bihar

Above: Flag of Japan

Above: Flag of South Korea

He was a war correspondent for Paris Match magazine during the Indochina War (1946 – 1954). 

Above: French Foreign Legionnaires with a suspected Viet Minh supporter

In 1953, he began a journey through the American continent that had been planned for a long time, visiting and photographing Mexico and Panama and Peru.

Above: Flag of Mexico

Above: Flag of Panama

Above: Flag of Peru

The following year, on 16 May 1954, his SUV crashed into a Peruvian river at Pena de Aguila Andes down a slope.

Bischof was killed.

Above: Pena de Aguila, Peru

In his relatively short life, Werner Bischof was highly productive and dedicated. 

He created a work of 60,000 photographs. 

With his fascinating compositions of light and shadow, Bischof made a name for himself early on as a studio and advertising photographer. 

But when he was able to travel through devastated Europe after the end of the Second World War, his pictures described the suffering and destructiveness of the war with oppressive urgency. 

Above: Two girls inside a church destroyed by the war. Friedrichshafen (Germany). 1945, Werner Bischof photograph

Above: A man looking at the city in ruins. Frankfurt (Germany). 1946 – Werner Bischof photograph

Above: A man walking through the destroyed city searching for food in Freiburg im Breisgau (Germany). 1945 – Werner Bischof photograph

His motto now became:

It is not important to make an art out of photography as in the old sense, but rather the deep social responsibility of the photographer, who does a job with the given elementary photographic means that cannot be done with other means would be able to afford. 

This work must become the unadulterated document of temporal reality.

Above: A view of the Thames River from Westminster Abbey in London. 1950 – Werner Bischof photograph

With this in mind, Bischof created images that show bitter poverty and deep suffering, but are also documents of the inner strength and willpower of the people depicted. 

The superficiality and sensationalism of the editorial business repelled him, but he was mostly sent to crisis areas. 

Despite the external circumstances, the love for people and the love for the cause are always visible in Bischof’s photographs.

Aesthetic feeling, elementary formative power and human commitment combined with him to an inner unity.

One of his most famous pictures shows a boy playing the flute walking along a precipice. 

Bischof took the picture in Peru in 1954. 

The NZZ called the picture “an icon of photojournalism“. 

Werner Bischof was a photographer personality who, after the Second World War, photographed the trouble spots of this world with the eye of a poet and the awareness of a politician.”)

Showing the shadows of poverty and despair, tempered with his desire to travel the world, Bischof conveyed the beauty of nature and humanity.

I felt compelled to venture forth and explore the true face of the world.

Leading a satisfying of plenty has blinded many of us to the immense hardships beyond our borders.

Above: A pleasant sleep – Werner Bischof photograph

(Jakob Tuggener (1904 – 1988) was a Swiss photographer.

Above: Jakob Tuggener?

Tuggener did an apprenticeship as a mechanical draftsman in Zurich. 

In 1930 – 1931 he studied graphics, typography, drawing, window dressing and film at the Reimann School in Berlin (then the largest private arts and crafts school in Germany). 

His work at that time was published in the school magazine Farb und Form (Colour and Form). 

Above: Reimann Art School (1902 – 1940), Berlin, Germany

After his return to Switzerland he worked as an industrial photographer. 

In 1934, Tuggener bought a Leica camera and took his first photographs at the Grand Bal Russe (Russian ball) in Zürich. 

The subject of dance balls would not let him go for two decades. 

The glories of nightlife enchanted him with their alabaster light illuminating a fairy tale of women and flowing silk.

Above: ACS Ball Grand Hotel Dolder, 1948 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

He photographed balls in Zürich’s Grand Hotel Dolder and the Hotel Baur au Lac, St. Moritz’s Palace Hotel, and the Vienna (Wien) Opera Ball. 

Above: Dolder Grand Hotel, Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Hotel Baur au Lac, Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Palace Hotel, St. Moritz, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

Above: Vienna State Opera, Wien (Vienna), Austria

He also devoted himself to topics such as country life and technology.

Above: Untitled, Oeschgen, Canton Aargau, Switzerland, 1942 Jakob Tuggener photograph

Above: Plant entrance, Oerlikon Machine Factory, Canton Zürich, Switzerland, 1934 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

In 1943, Tuggener made his breakthrough into avant-garde Swiss photography with his book Factory: a photographic essay on the relationship between man and machine

Above: Grande Dixence power station, Canton Valais, Switzerland, 1942 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

Above: Barrage de la Grande Dixence, Lac des Dix reservoir, Canton Valais, Switzerland

After the Second World War, his pictures were shown in the New York Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) and published in the magazines Leica-Foto and Du, among others. 

Above: Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York City, New York, USA

In 1949, the new editor of Camera magazine, Walter Laubli (1902 – 1991), published a substantial portfolio of Jakob Tuggener’s pictures made at upper-class entertainments and in factories, a world familiar to him from his early apprenticeship as a technical draftsman in Zürich, as well as a series of stills from his silent films, with an introduction by Hans Kasser (1907 – 1978), himself a photographer and member of the Werkbund.

Alongside Tuggener’s work, Camera presented the 25-year-old Robert Frank, who had just returned to his native Switzerland  after two years abroad, with pages including some of his first pictures from New York.

The magazine promoted the two as representatives of the ‘new photography’ of Switzerland.

Above: Cover of the 1st issue of Camera magazine, July 1922

Tuggener was a role model for Frank, first mentioned to him by his boss and mentor, Zurich commercial photographer Michael Wolgensinger (1913–1990).

Tuggener, as a serious artist who had left the commercial world behind, was the “one Frank really did love, from among all Swiss photographers”. 

Fabrik, as a photo book, was a model for Frank’s Les Américains (1958).

A first major exhibition of Tuggener’s “Ball Nights” pictures took place in Munich in 1969. 

In 1951, Tuggener founded the College of Swiss Photographers with Werner Bischof, Gotthard Schuh and Paul Senn.

Above: Ball Nights photograph, Jakob Tuggener

The “pictorial poet” Tuggener is regarded as a representative of social documentary photography, one of the most important areas of photographic art. 

For Tuggener, people, truth and the concern for social justice were at the centre of his work. 

His work is characterized by the interplay of the artistic media of painting, photography and film with the three main themes of work in the factory, life in the country, and glamorous balls in magnificent hotels. 

He created expressive photography and knew how to assemble radical sections and dynamic perspectives into film-like series of images. 

As with a moving camera, he captured the “pulse of life” and condensed fleeting moments into a poetic overall view.

In 1950, Tuggener wrote: 

The photographer as an expressionist does not exist in the commercial register. 

He is the freest and free. 

Detached from all purpose, he only photographs the pleasure of his experience.

Above: Work in the boiler (1935), Jakob Tuggener photograph

His archive is in the Fotomuseum in Winterthur.)

Above: Fotomuseum, Winterthur, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

(Robert Frank (1924 – 2019) was a Swiss photographer and documentary filmmaker, who became an American bi-national.

Above: Robert Frank

His most notable work, the 1958 book titled The Americans, earned Frank comparisons to a modern-day Alexis de Tocqueville (1805 – 1889) for his fresh and nuanced outsider’s view of American society.

Above: French political philosopher Alexis de Tocqueville

Critic Sean O’Hagan, writing in The Guardian in 2014, said The Americans

“‘The Americanschanged the nature of photography, what it could say and how it could say it.

It remains perhaps the most influential photography book of the 20th century.

Above: Sean O’Hagan

Frank later expanded into film and video and experimented with manipulating photographs and photomontage.

Above: Robert Frank, “Couple/Paris” 1952

Frank was born in Zürich, Switzerland, the son of Rosa (Zucker) and Hermann Frank.

His family was Jewish.

Robert states in Gerald Fox’s 2004 documentary Leaving Home, Coming Home that his mother, Rosa (other sources state her name as Regina), had a Swiss passport, while his father, Hermann originating from Frankfurt, Germany had become stateless after losing his German citizenship as a Jew.

They had to apply for the Swiss citizenship of Robert and his older brother, Manfred.

Though Frank and his family remained safe in Switzerland during World War II, the threat of Nazism nonetheless affected his understanding of oppression.

Above: Flag of the National Socialist Party (1920 – 1945)

He turned to photography, in part as a means to escape the confines of his business-oriented family and home, and trained under a few photographers and graphic designers before he created his first hand-made book of photographs, 40 Fotos, in 1946. 

Frank emigrated to the US in 1947.

He secured a job in New York City as a fashion photographer for Harper’s Bazaar.

In 1949, the new editor of Camera magazine, Walter Laubli, published a substantial portfolio of Jakob Tuggener  pictures made at upper-class entertainments and in factories, alongside the work of the 25 year-old Frank who had just returned to his native Switzerland after two years abroad, with pages including some of his first pictures from New York.

The magazine promoted the two as representatives of the ‘new photography‘ of Switzerland.

Tuggener was a role model for the younger artist, first mentioned to him by Frank’s boss and mentor, Zürich commercial photographer Michael Wolgensinger (1913 – 1990) who understood that Frank was unsuited to the more mercenary application of the medium.

Tuggener, as a serious artist, had left the commercial world behind.

Above: Michael Wolgensinger

Frank soon left to travel in South America and Europe.

He created another handmade book of photographs that he shot in Peru, and returned to the US in 1950.

That year was momentous for Frank:

He participated in the group show 51 American Photographers at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA).

He married fellow artist Mary Lockspeiser, with whom he had two children, Andrea and Pablo.

Though he was initially optimistic about US society and culture, Frank’s perspective quickly changed as he confronted the fast pace of American life and what he saw as an overemphasis on money.

He now saw America as an often bleak and lonely place, a perspective that became evident in his later photography.

Frank’s own dissatisfaction with the control that editors exercised over his work also undoubtedly colored his experience.

Above: Robert Frank, “Trolley —New Orleans”, 1955

He continued to travel, moving his family briefly to Paris. 

Above: Robert Frank, “Tulip/Paris” 1950

In 1953, he returned to New York and continued to work as a freelance photojournalist for magazines, including McCall’s, Vogue and Fortune.

Associating with other contemporary photographers, he helped form the New York School of Photographers during the 1940s and 1950s.

In 1955, Frank achieved further recognition with the inclusion of seven of his photographs (many more than most other contributors) in the world-touring MoMA exhibition The Family of Man that was to be seen by 9 million visitors and with a popular catalogue that is still in print.

Frank’s contributions had been:

  • in Spain of a woman kissing her swaddled babe-in-arms
  • of a bowed old woman in Peru
  • a rheumy-eyed miner in Wales
  • others in England and the US, including two (one atypically soft-focus) of his wife in pregnancy; and one (later to be included in The Americans) of six laughing women in the window of the White Tower Hamburger Stand on Fourteenth Street, New York City.

Inspired by fellow Swiss Jakob Tuggener’s 1943 filmic book Fabrik, Bill Brandt’s The English at Home (1936) and Walker Evans’ American Photographs (1938), Frank secured a Guggenheim Fellowship in 1955 to travel across the United States and photograph all strata of its society.

Cities he visited included: 

  • Detroit, Michigan
  • Dearborn, Michigan  
  • Savannah, Georgia
  • Miami Beach, Florida
  • St. Petersburg, Florida  
  • New Orleans, Louisiana 
  • Houston, Texas 
  • Los Angeles, California 
  • Reno, Nevada
  • Salt Lake City, Utah
  • Butte, Montana
  • Chicago, Illinois.

Above: Detroit, Michigan, USA

Above: Dearborn, Michigan, USA

Above: Savannah, Georgia, USA

Above: Miami Beach, Florida, USA

Above: St. Petersburg, Florida, USA

Above: New Orleans, Louisiana, USA

Above: Houston, Texas, USA

Above: Los Angeles, California, USA

Above: Reno, Nevada, USA

Above: Images of Salt Lake City, Utah, USA

Above: Images of Butte, Montana, USA

Above: Chicago, Illinois, USA

He took his family along with him for part of his series of road trips over the next two years, during which time he took 28,000 shots.

83 of these were selected by him for publication in The Americans.

Frank’s journey was not without incident.

He later recalled the anti-Semitism to which he was subject in a small Arkansas town.

I remember the policeman took me into the police station.

He sat there and put his feet on the table.

It came out that I was Jewish because I had a letter from the Guggenheim Foundation.

They really were primitive.

He was told by the sheriff:

Well, we have to get somebody who speaks Yiddish.”

They wanted to make a thing out of it.

It was the only time it happened on the trip.

They put me in jail.

It was scary.

Nobody knew where I was.

Above: State flag of Arkansas

Elsewhere in the South, he was told by a sheriff that he had “an hour to leave town“.

Those incidents may have contributed to the dark view of America found in the work.

Above: The states in dark red compose the Deep South today.

Adjoining areas of Texas and North Florida are also considered part of this subregion.

Shortly after returning to New York in 1957, Frank met Beat writer Jack Kerouac “at a New York party where poets and Beatniks were,” and showed him the photographs from his travels.

However, according to Joyce Johnson, Kerouac’s lover at the time, she met Frank while waiting for Kerouac to emerge from a conference with his editors, at Viking Press, looked at Frank’s portfolio, and introduced them to each other. 

Kerouac immediately told Frank:

Sure I can write something about these pictures.

He eventually contributed the introduction to the US edition of The Americans.

Above: Jack Kerouac (1922 – 1969)

Frank also became lifelong friends with Beat poet Allen Ginsberg.

Above: Allen Ginsberg (1926 – 1997)

Frank was one of the main visual artists to document the Beat subculture, who felt an affinity with Frank’s interest in documenting the tensions between the optimism of the 1950s and the realities of class and racial differences.

The irony that Frank found in the gloss of American culture and wealth over this tension gave his photographs a clear contrast to those of most contemporary American photojournalists, as did his use of unusual focus, low lighting and cropping that deviated from accepted photographic techniques.

This divergence from contemporary photographic standards gave Frank difficulty at first in securing an American publisher. 

Les Américains was first published in 1958 by Robert Delpire in Paris, as part of its Encyclopédie Essentielle series, with texts by Simone de Beauvoir, Erskine Caldwell, William Faulkner, Henry Miller and John Steinbeck that Delpire positioned opposite Frank’s photographs. 

Above: French writer Simone de Beauvoir (1908 – 1986)

Above: American writer Erskine Caldwell (1903 – 1987)

Above: American writer William Faulkner (1897 – 1962)

Above: American writer Henry Miller (1891 – 1980)

Above: American writer John Steinbeck (1902 – 1968)

It was finally published in 1959 in the US, without the texts, by Grove Press, where it initially received substantial criticism. 

Above: Logo of Grove Press

Popular Photography derided his images as “meaningless blur, grain, muddy exposures, drunken horizons and general sloppiness“.

Though sales were also poor at first, the fact that the introduction was by the popular Kerouac helped it reach a larger audience.

Over time and through its inspiration of later artists, The Americans became a seminal work in American photography and art history.

It is the work with which Frank is most clearly identified.

Critic Sean O’Hagan, writing in The Guardian in 2014, said:

It is impossible to imagine photography’s recent past and overwhelmingly confusing present without his lingeringly pervasive presence.

Above: “Mr. and Mrs. Feiertag/Late afternoon“, Robert Frank, from the photo essay “People You Don’t See (series),” 1951

In 1961, Frank received his first individual show, entitled Robert Frank: Photographer, at the Art Institute of Chicago.

He also showed at MoMA in New York in 1962.

Above: Art Institute of Chicago, Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois, USA

The French journal Les cahiers de la photographie devoted special issues 11 and 12 in 1983 to discussion of Robert Frank as a gesture of admiration for, and complicity with, his work, also to set forth his critical capacity as an artist.

To mark the 50th anniversary of the first publication of The Americans, a new edition was released worldwide on May 30, 2008.

For this new edition, most photographs are uncropped (in contrast to the cropped versions in previous editions).

Two photographs are replaced with those of the same subject but from an alternate perspective.

Above: Robert Frank, “Covered car — Long Beach, California”, 1956

A celebratory exhibit of The Americans, titled Looking In: Robert Frank’s The Americans, was displayed in 2009 at the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA), and at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Above: National Gallery of Art, Washington DC, USA

Above: Museum of Modern Art, San Francisco, California, USA

Above: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City, New York, USA

An accompanying book, also titled Looking In: Robert Frank’s The Americans, was published, the most in-depth examination of any photography book ever, at 528 pages.

While working as a guard at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Jason Eskenazi asked other noted photographers visiting the Looking In exhibition to choose their favorite image from The Americans and explain their choice, resulting in the book, By the Glow of the Jukebox: The Americans List.

Though Frank continued to be interested in film and video, he returned to still images in the 1970s, publishing his second photographic book, The Lines of My Hand, in 1972.

This work has been described as a “visual autobiography“, and consists largely of personal photographs.

However, he largely gave up “straight” photography to instead create narratives out of constructed images and collages, incorporating words and multiple frames of images that were directly scratched and distorted on the negatives.

None of this later work has achieved an impact comparable to that of The Americans. 

In contrast to The Americans, Frank’s later images simply were not beyond the pale of accepted technique and practice by that time.

By the time The Americans was published in the US in 1959, Frank had moved away from photography to concentrate on filmmaking.

Among his films was the 1959 Pull My Daisy, which was written and narrated by Kerouac and starred Ginsberg and others from the Beat circle.

The Beats emphasized spontaneity.

The film conveyed the quality of having been thrown together or even improvised.

Pull My Daisy was accordingly praised for years as an improvisational masterpiece, until Frank’s co-director, Alfred Leslie, revealed in a 28 November 1968 article in the Village Voice that the film was actually carefully planned, rehearsed, and directed by him and Frank, who shot the film with professional lighting.

In 1960, Frank stayed in Pop artist George Segal’s basement while filming The Sin of Jesus.

Above: American artist George Segal (1924 – 2000)

Isaac Babel’s story was transformed to center on a woman working on a chicken farm in New Jersey.

Above: Russian writer Isaac Babel (1894 – 1940)

It was originally supposed to be filmed in six weeks in and around New Brunswick, Canada, but Frank ended up shooting for six months.

Above: Flag of the Canadian province of New Brunswick

Frank’s 1972 documentary of the Rolling Stones is arguably his best known film.

The film shows the Stones on tour, engaging in heavy drug use and group sex.

Frank said of the Stones:

It was great to watch them — the excitement.

But my job was after the show.

What I was photographing was a kind of boredom.

It’s so difficult being famous.

It’s a horrendous life.

Everyone wants to get something from you.” 

Mick Jagger reportedly told Frank:

It’s a good film, Robert, but if it shows in America we’ll never be allowed in the country again.

The Stones sued to prevent the film’s release.

It was disputed whether Frank as the artist or the Stones as those who hired the artist owned the copyright.

A court order restricted the film to being shown no more than five times per year, and only in the presence of Frank.

Frank’s photography also appeared on the cover of the Rolling Stones’ album Exile on Main Street.

Above: Album cover, The Rolling Stones, Exile on Main Street

Other films by Frank include: 

  • Me and My Brother
  • Keep Busy
  • Candy Mountain

Frank and Mary separated in 1969.

He remarried, to sculptor June Leaf.

Above: American artist June Leaf

In 1971, they moved to the community of Mabou, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada. 

Above: Mabou, Nova Scotia, Canada

In 1974, his daughter, Andrea, was killed in a plane crash in Tikal, Guatemala.

In 1995, in memory of his daughter he founded the Andrea Frank Foundation, which provides grants to artists.

Above: Mayan Temple 1, Tikal, Guatemala

Also around this time, his son, Pablo, was first hospitalized and diagnosed with schizophrenia.

Much of Frank’s subsequent work dealt with the impact of the loss of both his daughter and subsequently his son, who died in an Allentown, Pennsylvania hospital in 1994.

Above: Images of Allentown, Pennsylvania, USA

Well, we’re living here in Allentown
And they’re closing all the factories down
Out in Bethlehem they’re killing time
Filling out forms
Standing in line
Well, our fathers fought the Second World War
Spent their weekends on the Jersey Shore
Met our mothers in the USO
Asked them to dance
Danced with them slow
And we’re living here in Allentown

But the restlessness was handed down
And it’s getting very hard to stay

Well, we’re waiting here in Allentown
For the Pennsylvania we never found
For the promises our teachers gave
If we worked hard
If we behaved
So the graduations hang on the wall
But they never really helped us at all
No, they never taught us what was real
Iron and coke
And chromium steel
And we’re waiting here in Allentown

But they’ve taken all the coal from the ground
And the union people crawled away

Every child had a pretty good shot
To get at least as far as their old man got
But something happened on the way to that place
They threw an American flag in our face

Well, I’m living here in Allentown
And it’s hard to keep a good man down
But I won’t be getting up today

And it’s getting very hard to stay
And we’re living here in Allentown

After his move to Nova Scotia, Canada, Frank divided his time between his home there, in a former fisherman’s shack on the coast, and his Bleeker Street loft in New York.

He acquired a reputation for being a recluse (particularly since the death of Andrea), declining most interviews and public appearances.

Above: Robert Frank address, 7 Bleecker Street, Manhattan, New York City, New York, USA

He continued to accept eclectic assignments, however, such as photographing the 1984 Democratic National Convention, and directing music videos for artists such as New Order (“Run“) and Patti Smith (“Summer Cannibals“).

Above: Logo of the US Democratic Party

Above: Front cover for the single Summer Cannibals by Patti Smith

Frank produced both films and still images, and helped organize several retrospectives of his art.

His work has been represented by Pace/MacGill Gallery in New York since 1984.

In 1994, the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC presented the most comprehensive retrospective of Frank’s work to date, entitled Moving Out.

Anthony works in the grocery store
Savin’ his pennies for someday
Mama Leone left a note on the door
She said, “Sonny, move out to the country”
Workin’ too hard can give you
A heart attack (ack, ack, ack, ack, ack)
You oughta know by now (oughta know)
Who needs a house out in Hackensack
Is that what you get for your money?

It seems such a waste of time
If that’s what it’s all about
Mama, if that’s movin’ up
Then I’m movin’ out
I’m movin’ out

Sergeant O’Leary is walkin’ the beat
At night he becomes a bartender
He works at Mister Cacciatore’s down
On Sullivan Street
Across from the medical center
He’s tradin’ in his Chevy for a Cadillac (ack, ack, ack, ack, ack)
You oughta know by now
And if he can’t drive
With a broken back
At least he can polish the fenders

It seems such a waste of time
If that’s what it’s all about
Mama, if that’s movin’ up
Then I’m movin’ out
I’m movin’ out

You should never argue with a crazy mind (mi-, mi-, mi-, mi-, mi-)
You oughta know by now
You can pay Uncle Sam with the overtime
Is that all you get for your money
If that’s what you have in mind
If that’s what you’re all about
Good luck movin’ up
‘Cause I’m moving out
I’m moving out (mmm)
Ou, ou, uh huh (mmm)

I’m moving out

Frank died on 9 September 2019, at his home in Nova Scotia.

Above: Robert Frank home, Mabou, Nova Scotia

Let us return back to Switzerland and Arnold Kübler…..

Above: Arnold Kübler, editor of the Zürcher Illustrierte

(Under Kübler, in the literary section, works by Hermann Hesse and Max Frisch were included.

Above: German writer Hermann Hesse (1877 – 1962)

Above: Swiss writer Max Frisch (1911 – 1991)

In 1941, Conzett & Huber decided to sell the Zürcher Illustrierte and publish a new magazine with which they planned to promote the multi-color print they have developed.

Arnold Kübler became the editor-in-chief of the newly founded cultural magazine Du, which he ran for 16 years.

Under Kübler’s leadership, Du became a well respected cultural magazine, employing prominent photographers and focused on painters like Pablo Picasso, Joan Miro and Paul Klee.

Above: Spanish artist Joan Miro (1893 – 1983)

Above: Swiss artist Paul Klee (1879 – 1940)

Kübler was active in his positions as a cultural mediator and source of inspiration, but did not neglect his own artistic forms of expression:

In the 1960s he returned to the theatre stage with great success as a one-man cabaret.

In addition, Kübler was active in drawing and writing, which he was able to combine in several of his books, for example, in the travelogue Paris – Bâle à pied (Paris to Basel on foot) – Report and drawings of a 500 km journey on foot in 28 days (1967). 

In his Öppi novels, Kübler described autobiographical events on more than 2,000 pages.

Kübler’s works:

  • The Failed Actor (1934)
  • The Heart, the Corner, the Donkey, and Other Stories (1939)
  • Öppi from Wasenwachs: The boy without a mother (1943)
  • Öppi the student (1947)
  • Öppi and Eve (1951)
  • Velodyssey: A sporting epic (1955)
  • In Alfred Hüggenberger’s country: A winter journey with drawings (1958)
  • Mitenand, gägenenand, durenand: A picture book of how to treat your neighbor in Switzerland (1959)
  • Zurich experienced, drawn, explained (1960)
  • 48 cheerful stories (1961)
  • The dare: A Zürich booklet about Basel (1961)
  • Sites and cities: Experienced, drawn, explained (1963)
  • Öppi the fool (1964)
  • Draw, Antonio! (1966)
  • Babette, best regards: Predominantly true accounts and drawings (1967)
  • Paris – Bâle à pied: Report and drawings of a 500 km journey on foot in 28 days (1967)
  • Say & write! – A humorous cabaret autobiographical contribution to the cultural history of the city of Zürich (1969)
  • Israel: a look – Report with drawings (1970)
  • Stay: Mostly cheerful reports with drawings (1974) )

Above: Original German language version of Arnold Kübler’s The Failed Actor

(Alfred Huggenberger (1867 – 1960) (aka Dr. Hans Meyerlein) was a Swiss writer. 

Above: Alfred Huggenberger

With his numerous farces, stories and poems, both in standard German and in his Eastern Swiss dialect, he became known beyond Switzerland.

Alfred Huggenberger was born the son of a farmer in Bewangen (Canton Zürich) near the border of Canton Thurgau. 

Above: Village school with clock tower, Bertschikon bei Attikon, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

At the age of 29, he took over his parents’ farm, which burned down, due to arson, in 1904. 

Together with his wife Bertha and their daughter, Huggenberger moved to neighboring Gerlikon (Canton Thurgau) in 1908, where he took over a smaller farm that gave him more time for his literary work.

Above: St. George Chapel, Gerlikon, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Alfred Huggenberger began writing early on. 

He made his literary breakthrough beyond the Swiss border in 1907 with the book Hinterm Pflug (Behind the Plough) supported by well-known authors, such as Hermann Hesse. 

During the National Socialist era, he was used by the Nazis to propagate blood and soil literature.

(Blood and soil literature is the contrast between town and country, with the city embodying the concepts of democracy, liberalism, modernism and individualism as negative values, and the rural countryside, with its naturalness.

A sense of community and an anti-progress ideal represented the supposedly positive pole. 

Blood and soil literature differs from other streams of Nazi fiction in its glorification of country life, nature and the return to nature.)

Above: Coat of arms of the German Reich (1935 – 1945)

(I never cease to be amazed by how the Nazis could take something wonderful and convert it into something terrible.

For example, the swastika is a millennia-old sacred symbol in Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism that represents peace and good fortune, but in the West, it remains equated to Adolf Hitler’s hooked cross (Hakenkreuz).

Happily, calls to reclaim the swastika as a sacred symbol become louder.

Above: Hindu Swastika

Another example is Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche (1844 – 1900), a German philosopher, prose poet, cultural critic and philologist, whose work has exerted a profound influence on contemporary philosophy.

Nietzsche’s writing spans philosophical polemics, poetry, cultural criticism and fiction while displaying a fondness for aphorism and irony.

Prominent elements of his philosophy include:

  • his radical critique of truth in favor of perspectivism
  • a genealogical critique of religion and Christian morality and a related theory of master – slave morality
  • the aesthetic affirmation of life in response to both the “death of God” and the profound crisis of nihilism
  • the notion of Apollonian and Dionysian forces
  • a characterization of the human subject as the expression of competing wills, collectively understood as the will to power

He also developed influential concepts such as the Übermensch (Superman) and his doctrine of eternal return.

In his later work, he became increasingly preoccupied with the creative powers of the individual to overcome cultural and moral mores in pursuit of new values and aesthetic health.

His body of work touched a wide range of topics, including:

  • art
  • philology
  • history
  • music
  • religion
  • tragedy
  • culture
  • science 

After his death, Nietzsche’s sister Elisabeth became the curator and editor of his manuscripts.

She edited his unpublished writings to fit her German ultranationalist ideology, often contradicting or obfuscating Nietzsche’s stated opinions, which were explicitly opposed to antisemitism.

Through her, Nietzsche’s work became associated with fascism and Nazism.

20th-century scholars defended Nietzsche against this interpretation.

Corrected editions of his writings were soon made available.

Nietzsche’s thought enjoyed renewed popularity in the 1960s.

His ideas have since had a profound impact on 20th- and early 21st-century thinkers across philosophy — especially in schools of Continental philosophy (such as existentialism, postmodernism and post-structuralism — as well as art, literature, poetry, politics, and popular culture.

Above: Friedrich Nietzsche (1844 – 1900)

I have visited the Nietzsche Museum in Sils Maria, where the philosopher spent his final years.

I highly recommend a visit.)

Above: Nietzsche Haus Museum, Sils Maria, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland, where the German philosopher lived during the summers of 1881 and from 1883 to 1888.

(In addition to absorbing Germanic pagan myths, blood-and-soil literature played an important role in the creation of the Nazi worldview.

Nature and natural life are made the subject of a political myth by the writers of the blood-and-soil style. 

The focus is on the farmer and the farmer’s wife as symbols of the “pure” German par excellence. 

Village society appears as a Nazi microcosm. 

Nazi racism is propagated through blood and soil literature.

One of the basic tenets of the genre is the idea that “nobility” is nothing other than the peasant clan who must hold on to their indivisible, unsaleable hereditary farm for the purpose of breeding, to keep their blood pure.)

Above: German People, German Work, Kaiserdamm, Berlin, Germany (1934)

Huggenberger’s entire oeuvre comprises over 100 volumes of prose and poetry – some in Standard German, some in Swiss German – as well as numerous plays. 

Huggenberger worked in agriculture until old age. 

He died at the age of 92 in the former monastery of St. Katharinental and is buried in the cemetery in Gachnang.)

Above: Monastery of St. Katharinenthal, Diesenhofen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Now let us go back to Altnau and Hans Baumgartner…..

Above: Swiss teacher/photographer Hans Baumgartner

Baumgartner’s first photo report appeared in 1935.

Baumgartner then published in magazines, such as Camera, Du, Der Schweizer Spiegel (the Swiss Mirror), Die Schweiz (Switzerland) and Föhn (a type of dry, relatively warm, downslope wind that occurs in the lee (downwind side) of a mountain range – what Canadians call a chinook). 

The Neue Zürcher Zeitung (New Zurich newspaper) and the Thurgauer Zeitung also published his pictures. 

His photo books (from 1941) deal primarily with themes from his home canton of Thurgau. 

Above: Exercise in the snow, Hans Baumgartner photograph

In 1937, he made the acquaintance of the painter Adolf Dietrich, whom he subsequently portrayed several times.

Above: Swiss artist Adolf Dietrich

(Adolf Dietrich (1877 – 1957) was a Swiss painter.

Dietrich was born in a small, modest house in Berlingen, in Canton Thurgau, the 7th child of Heinrich Dietrich and Dorothea (née Kern). 

Above: Adolf Dietrich Haus, Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Even as a small boy he collected a lot and tried to imitate and draw everything. 

From 1885 to 1893 he attended primary school. 

He was a good and diligent student. 

His teacher recognized his talent for drawing and encouraged it. 

He recommended to his parents that their son should do an apprenticeship as a lithographer. 

But the family was poor and Adolf had to learn a trade that would earn him more. 

So he started to work in a jersey factory in Berlingen. 

On Sundays he painted and drew passionately. 

From 1896 to 1910 he worked at home as a machine knitter.

 Above: Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Nature with its mysteries and wonders fascinated him more and more. 

He began a first sketchbook and a dozen animal watercolours followed

In 1902, Dietrich became friends with Friedrich Neeser, a baker’s apprentice who also painted. 

They spent Sundays together in nature. 

Neeser encouraged the serious and somewhat anxious Adolf not to give up painting.

Above: Waldrand, Adolf Dietrich (1918)

In 1903, Dietrich drew his first self-portrait in charcoal. 

Above: Adolf Dietrich

His brother, who lived in Ludwigshafen am Rhein, commissioned him to paint a portrait of his parents. 

Above: Ludwigshafen am Rhein, Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany

That same year his mother died. 

From then on, Dietrich lived alone with his father in a small house in Berlingen. 

Above: Dorothea and Heinrich Dietrich

Working from home on the knitting machine helped to cope with the daily worries of existence. 

For technical reasons, however, he soon gave up working from home and earned his living as a forest worker. 

In 1913, he exhibited his paintings for the first time in Konstanz in the Wessenberghaus Museum. 

Above: Wessenberg Haus, Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

This was followed by further exhibitions in various galleries in Germany.

In 1918 his father died. 

This loss was difficult for him. 

Above: Moonlight on the Bodensee, Adolf Dietrich

Dietrich was discovered by the art dealer Herbert Tannenbaum, which enabled Dietrich to exhibit at various locations in Germany. 

Tannenbaum endeavored to make Dietrich known in Switzerland and soon obtained permission for exhibitions in Zürich and Schaffhausen. 

From 1924, Dietrich was able to make a living from his painting.

In 1937, Adolf Dietrich met Hans Baumgartner, who portrayed him several times for the magazine Du, thus helped him to achieve his international breakthrough.  

As a result, Dietrich was able to take part in exhibitions in Paris, London and New York.

It was not until 1941 that his home canton of Thurgau acquired a picture of his. 

From 1942, the demand for his pictures became so great that he copied his own pictures and promised the same picture to several people at the same time. 

He painted until his death. 

He died in his house in Berlingen. 

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

The lawyer Hans Buck, the author of Adolf Dietrich as a draftsman, made sure that Dietrich wrote a will and in it foresightedly thought of a future Thurgau art museum.

Adolf Dietrich had been fascinated by nature and animals since his childhood. 

He owned many stuffed animals that he drew. 

He often drew his garden or the Bodensee.

He painted portraits and various still life works.

Adolf Dietrich had no academic training as a painter. 

He always drew very precisely, so his pictures are very realistic. 

Above: Balbo lying on the meadow, Adolf Dietrich, 1955

Above: Fox in the forest, Adolf Dietrich

At the beginning Adolf Dietrich made pencil drawings in his sketchbooks on his hikes, 18 are still preserved today. 

Around 1929 he began taking black-and-white photographs, leaving behind several thousand.

He never painted in nature, but only ever made a sketch, which he then painted in color at home from memory. 

He never used an easel and always painted his pictures on the table in his living room, often in poor light. 

His techniques were gouache and watercolour painting, charcoal drawing, oil painting and pencil sketches.

In the beginning he painted on cardboard, later on wood, but only rarely on canvas. 

For this reason quite a lot of his pictures are in a sensitive condition.

The Museum is in his former home in Berlingen and is worth a visit.)

Above: Inside Adolf Dietrich Haus Museum, Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

(The Nazis completed destroyed the worthiness of the given name Adolf, which originally meant “noble wolf“.

Above: Seal of King Adolf of Nassau (1255 – 1298)

In both Protestant Germany (because of Swedish King Gustav Adolf and German writer Adolph von Knigge) and Catholic Germany (because of German priest/philosopher Adolph Kolping), Adolf enjoyed some popularity. 

Above: Swedish King Gustav Adolf (1594 – 1632)

Above: German writer Adolphe von Knigge (1752 – 1796)

Above: Adolph Kolping (1813 – 1865)

In 1890, the name was in 13th place on the popularity scale of all male first names in Germany.  

But since the beginning of the 20th century, its frequency as a first name has been decreasing. 

After an upswing from 1933, which lasted until 1942, the use of the name collapsed – in correlation with Adolf Hitler’s popularity.

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

 

Since the early 1950s, the first name Adolf has rarely been given to newborns in German-speaking countries.

The name is heavily burdened by the dictator Adolf Hitler and other Nazis, such as Adolf Eichmann (who orchestrated the Holocaust).

Above: Adolf Eichmann (1906 – 1962)

The first name is given about 15 times a year in Germany. 

The competent registry office decides on the admissibility in individual cases, in particular on the basis of the best interests of the child. 

In cases of doubt, they can consult the Onomastics Center at the University of Leipzig.

Above: Logo of the University of Leipzig, Saxony, Germany

The name was also popular in Sweden, where several kings bore the name. 

However, it has not been in the top ten most popular first names in any decade since the 1920s. 

In 2015, there were only around 2,600 bearers of this name in Sweden. 

Since at least 1998, fewer than ten newborn boys have been given this name each year. 

Above: Flag of Sweden

In the 2018 film Der Vorname (just like in the original 2012 French film Le Prénom), the name is the catalyst for a consequential dispute among the antagonists.

In it, an expectant father says with deadly seriousness that he will name his son Adolf

But he only wants to provoke his brother-in-law in order to give him a tit-for-tat for his constant mockery.)

Baumgartner also photographed his trips to Paris and Italy, the Balkans, southern France, North Africa and the Sahara, Croatia and the Dalmatian Coast, Burgundy, Spain and Portugal, Sweden and Finland, the US, Hungary, Belgium and Germany. 

Above: Sand dunes, Sahara Desert, Algeria

Above: Flag of Croatia

Above: Flag of Portugal

Above: Flag of Hungary

On his world trip by ship in 1963, he reached Asia (Bombay/Mumbai, Colombo, Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City, Hong Kong, Yokohama) and the American continent (Mexico and the US). 

Above: Mumbai, India

Above: Parliament Buildings, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Above: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Above: Hong Kong, China

Above: Yokohama, Japan

Stays at spas took him to Davos.

Above: Images of Davos, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

Hans Baumgartner died in Frauenfeld in 1996. 

Above: Frauenfeld, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The Swiss Foundation for Photography manages his estate of around 120,000 photographs.

It cannot be denied that Switzerland, despite its diminutive size (as compared to Canada or Turkey), is replete with talented artists.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Above: Flag of Canada

Above: Flag of Turkey

All of the above-mentioned Swiss artists, save Dietrich, travelled the world.

Dietrich’s world surrounded him.

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

I mention Baumgartner, because I think his photography abandoned the sphere of technical experimentation, the abstract and the avant-garde.

Photography became more wholesome, concentrating on the poetry of real things, the universal language of life.

Baumgartner was a teacher but by following his passions he succeeded in creating photos that tell a narrative, such as in Italy, a stolen image of lovers resting beside their discarded bicycles amongst long summer grass in an olive grove, or in Java, a boy stretches balletically across the pavement as he plays marbles.

Above: Hans Baumgartner

Kübler tried to be a geologist, then a sculptor, found success as an actor, was disfigured and still managed to achieve success as an artist in the field of literature.

Kübler believed in the role that photography can play upon the people who view it.

Above: Arnold Kübler

Senn showed that photography can be of a humanist nature.

Above: Paul Senn

Bischof sought to capture the true face of the world, the essence of real life.

Above: Werner Bischof

Tuggener showed that there was poetry in photography.

Above: Jakob Tuggener

Dieter’s guide to creation was Creation itself.

Above: Flowers by the Window with Butterflies, Adolf Dietrich

I believe that once Frank and Huggenberger moved on from their beloved Switzerland they gained their reputations, but lost themselves and the beautiful spirit that is Switzerland that had nurtured them.

Above: Swiss International Air Lines logo

I have only mentioned a few famous Swiss photographers but there are many more worthy of mention, such as:

Fred Boissonnas (1858 – 1946) was a Swiss photographer from Geneva.

Above: Fred Boissonnas

His work is considered crucial for the development of photography in Greece, and its use in favourably publicising the country’s expansionist ambitions, during the early 20th century.

Boissonnas constitutes a central figure in the transition from 19th century approaches to a more contemporary photography of antiquities.

Between 1903 and 1933 Boissonnas made several trips to Greece where he systematically documented Greece in landscape photographs, taken in all corners of the country, reflect its continuity from ancient times to the present day.

On one Greek expedition with compatriot art historian Daniel Baud-Bovy (1870 – 1958), Boissonnas made the first recorded modern-era ascent of Mount Olympus on 2 August 1913, aided by a hunter of wild goats.

Above: Mount Olympus, Greece

In total, Boissonnas published 14 photo albums dedicated to Greece, many of which belong to the thematic series entitled L’image de la Grece (The Image of Greece), his imagery contributing decisively to the identity of Greece in Europe, its promotion as a tourist destination but also its political situation.

His photographs of archaeological sites form 20% of his total Greek series.

He visited the Acropolis, Delphi, Olympia, Dodoni, Knossos, Delos, and many other sites, providing an extensive iconographic panorama of classical Greek antiquities.

Above: The Acropolis, Athens, Greece

Above: Delphi, Greece

Above: Olympia, Greece

Above: Dodoni, Greece

Above: Knossos, Crete

Above: Delos, Greece

Interested not only in documenting a site, Boissonnas also aimed to interpret the Greek landscape in combining classical antiquity with the provincial Greek folklore through associations of natural and cultural elements carefully composed and in the best ambient light.

His last photo album about Greece Following the ship of Ulysses (1933) sought to reconstruct the epic and, in a symbolic way, the dissemination of Greek culture throughout Europe. 

The photographs were accompanied by excerpts from Homer’s Odyssey.

  • Fred Mayer – One of Switzerland’s most influential photographers, Mayer travelled to Indonesia, where he shot a documentation about the former President Sukarno.

Above: Ilse and Fred Mayer

Above: Sukarno ( Koesno Sosrodihardjo)(1901 – 1970)(Indonesian President: 1945 – 1967)

His other works include pictures of King Hussein of Jordan and portfolios from all around the world, from the Vatican to Bali.

Above: Hussein bin Talal (1935 – 1999) (King of Jordan: 1952 – 1999)

Above: Flag of Vatican City

Above: Flag of Bali, Indonesia

He further published books about various countries, the Russian orthodox church, Chakkar Polo, Japanese theatre and the Chinese Opera.

Above: Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, Moscow, Russia

Above: Noh theatre, Japan

Above: Chinese National Opera House, Beijing, China

In 2011, Mayer published Homage to Hermann Hesse and his Siddhartha, based on the novel Siddhartha by the German author Hermann Hesse.

  • René Groebli – His first small folio Magie der Schiene (Rail magic) comprising 16 photographs (with front and back cover) was also shot in 1949 and self-published later the same year.

Above: René Groebli

It captures the ‘magic’ of steam train travel during the late 1940s.

Photographed in and around Paris, as well as locations in Switzerland, the often motion-blurred and grainy images convey the energy of steam.

The small book, Das Auge der Liebe (The Eye of Love), though respected for its design and photography, caused some controversy, but also brought Groebli attention.

The term “love” in the title being considered by students to be too sentimental given the obvious sexual connotations.

Where the photographer’s intention was for a romantic effect, the editor admitted that the narrative was sexualized.

In the leading periodical Neue Zürcher Zeitung, editor Edwin Arnet objected to the emphasis on nudity. 

Groebli sequenced his photographs to tell the story of a woman meeting a man in a cheap hotel.

The last photograph shows the woman’s hand with a wedding ring on her ring finger holding an almost finished post-coitus cigarette.

In the perception of audiences of the era, the implication was that the woman had to be either an ‘easy woman’, a prostitute, or an unfaithful wife.

However the US Camera Annual review of the work in 1955 pronounced it “a tender photo essay on a photographer’s love for a woman”.

  • René Robert (1936 – 2022) – In the mid-1960s, he moved to Paris, where he met a Swedish dancer who introduced him to the flamenco.

Above: René Robert

In 1967, he became one of the great portrait photographers.

He photographed personalities such as Spanish virtuoso flamenco guitarist Paco de Lucia (1947 – 2014), Spanish flamenco dancers Israel Galván and Rocio Molina Cruz in black-and-white.

Above: Paco de Lucia

Above: Israel Galván

Above: Rocio Molina Cruz

On the evening of 19 January 2022, Robert was walking through the Place de la République in Paris when he suddenly had a heart attack and collapsed on the sidewalk on rue de Turbigo.

Despite Robert lying motionless and on the pavement for nine hours, no one stopped to assist him or called for help, until eventually a homeless person called the emergency services.

Robert died of hypothermia on 20 January 2022, at the age of 85.

His death was subsequently the subject of media debate around public indifference to street people.

Above: Monument to the Glory of France, Place de la Republique, Paris, France

  • Ella Maillart (1903 – 1997) – From the 1930s onwards, she spent years exploring Muslim republics of the USSR, as well as other parts of Asia, and published a rich series of books which, just as her photographs, are today considered valuable historical testimonies.

Above: Ella Maillart (1903 – 1997)

Her early books were written in French, but later she began to write in English. 

Turkestan Solo describes a journey in 1932 in Soviet Turkestan.

Above: (in green) Former location of Soviet Central Asia / Russian Turkestan

Photos from this journey are now displayed in the Ella Maillart Wing of the Karakol Historical Museum, Kyrgyzstan.

Above: Flag of Kyrgyzstan

In 1934, the French daily Le Petit Parisien (1876 – 1944) sent her to Manchuria to report on the situation under the Japanese occupation.

Above: Map of Manchuria – From left to right: Outer Manchuria / Inner Manchuria / Northern Manchuria

Above: Images of the Second Sino-Japanese War / War of Chinese Resistance (1937 – 1945)

It was there that she met Peter Fleming (1907 – 1971), a well-known writer and correspondent of The Times, with whom she would team up to cross China from Peking (Beijing) to Srinagar (3,500 miles), much of the route being through hostile desert regions and steep Himalayan passes.

Above: English writer Peter Fleming (elder brother of James Bond creator Ian Fleming)

Above: Flag of China

Above: Beijing, China

Above: Srinagar, India

The journey started in February 1935 and took seven months to complete, involving travel by train, on lorries, on foot, horse and camelback.

Their objective was to ascertain what was happening in Xinjiang (Chinese Turkestan) where the Kumul Rebellion (1931 – 1934) had just ended.

Above: (in red) Location of Xinjiang (Chinese Turkestan)

Above: Turkic conscripts of the 36th Division near Kumul – They are carrying Kuomintaung (Chinese Nationalist Party)(blue sky with a white sun) flags.

Above: Emblem of the Kuomintang

Maillart and Fleming met the Hui (Chinese Muslim) forces of General Ma Hushan.

Above: Ma Hushan (1910 – 1954)

Ella Maillart later recorded this trek in her book Forbidden Journey, while Peter Fleming’s parallel account is found in his News from Tartary.

In 1937 Maillart returned to Asia for Le Petit Parisien to report on Afghanistan, Iran and Turkey.

Above: Ella Maillert, Meshid, Iran, 1939

In 1939 she undertook a trip from Geneva to Kabul by car, in the company of the Swiss writer, Annemarie Schwarzenbach. 

The Cruel Way is the title of Maillart’s book about this experience, cut short by the outbreak of the Second World War.

Above: Genève (Geneva), Switzerland

Above: Kabul, Afghanistan

Above: Annemarie Schwarzenbach and Ella Maillert

She spent the war years at Tiruyannamalai in southern India, learning from different teachers about Advaita Vedanta, one of the schools of Hindu philosophy.

Above: Images of Tiruvannamalai, India

On her return to Switzerland in 1945, she lived in Geneva and at Chandolin, a mountain village in the Swiss Alps.

Above: Chandolin, Canton Valais, Switzerland

  • Annemarie Schwarzenbach (1908 – 1942) was a Swiss writer, journalist and photographer.

Above: Annemarie Schwarzenbach

Her bisexual mother brought her up in a masculine style, and her androgynous image suited the bohemian Berlin society of the time, in which she indulged enthusiastically.

Her anti-Fascist campaigning forced her into exile, where she became close to the family of novelist Thomas Mann.

Above: German novelist Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

She would live much of her life abroad as a photojournalist, embarking on many lesbian relationships, and experiencing a growing morphine addiction.

In America, the young Carson McCullers (1917 – 1967) was infatuated with Schwarzenbach, to whom she dedicated Reflections in a Golden Eye.

Above: American writer Carson McCullers (1917 – 1967)

Schwarzenbach reported on the early events of World War II.

On 7 September 1942 in the Engadin, she fell from her bicycle and sustained a serious head injury.

Following a mistaken diagnosis in the Sils clinic where she was treated, she died on 15 November.

Above: Silssee (Lake of Sils), Engadin Valley, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

There always remains a question in my mind as I travel and discover what personalities places have fostered:

Did these places make them the people they became or would they have become what they were regardless of the environment which spawned them?

Had René Robert not had his heart attack in Paris would he have continued to live on?

Why did Maillart and Schwarzenbach, who had seen so much of the world, decide to return to their homeland of Switzerland – a nation famous for both its international diplomacy but insular fortress mentality?

The art that all these people produced is inspirational.

I love the way words and pictures can work together on a page or a screen.

When wise words have visuals added to them, they seem to travel further, like paper airplanes catching an updraught.

I ask myself questions as I once again visualize the quiet beauty of the Altnau of my memories:

How alike to these Swiss artists in any way might I be, might had I become, had I grown up here?

Would I have become a teacher much like Baumgarten, he who travelled the world but remained devoted to his classroom and his Canton and his country?

Or is it my fate to travel the world and die neglected far from home like René Robert or Werner Bischof?

Or would I have simply faded into the scene as beautiful and ignored as Altnau’s apple blossoms in spring?

The other thoughts that possess me as I type these words is the notion that not only are we products of the places we have been but we are as well artifacts of the age we live in.

Could this modern age of social media, audiovisual developments and the Internet have manifested the molds that made women and men like Baumgartner and Bischof, Senn and Schwarzenbach, Mayer and Maillart?

Words and photos have evolved into sound bites and film.

Books are buried by the cacophony of commentary crowding our consciousness continually by the inane insane bombardment of unfiltered information crashing upon us, drowning us in its mindless distraction.

There is so much reality that life feels unreal.

Technology has greatly improved the lives of many people around the world.

The use of the Internet, in particular, has become so widespread in so many countries that our daily existence is now unimaginable without it.

This is not necessarily a positive development.

When social media first started to become popular, it was an innocent extension of the standard types of interactions between friends and new acquaintances.

These days, however, there are two noticeable extremes, both negative:

One is where the platform is used as a substitute for human-to-human interaction.

The second is where it is employed as a way to bully or aggressively intimidate other people.

And I feel there is a third danger lurking in the corridor….

Above: Facebook logo

Above: Instagram logo

Above: WhatsApp logo

Above: Snapchat logo

For hundreds of years, the more forward-thinking elements of science and technology have stoked imaginations in the world of entertainment.

For example, a huge number of sci-fi movies were produced in the 20th century, a period during which space exploration became first a possibility, then a reality.

Many such films depict situations in which one character (in full bodily form) interacts with a 3-D holographic image of another.

Various aspects of society could be going through enormous changes as virtual reality (VR) technology moves towards fully operational and interactive implementation of its potential.

To what extent VR establishes itself as an integral part of our lives and how quickly it is likely to move from niche technology to common usage throughout society remains a matter of deliberation.

VR may well have become sufficiently developed for it to form an essential part of life by the mid-21st century, if not sooner.

Over 40 million people currently own VR headsets.

This figure is expected to double over the next three years.

By 2025, we may well have reached the point at which 200 million users will own a VR viewing device, a head-mounted display (HMD), more commonly known as a VR headset.

We may all prefer to live in a virtual reality that creates an illusion of a reality more desirable than real life itself.

Oh, the seduction promised by this brave new world!

Educators will be presented with a vast array of new opportunities through which to pass on knowledge.

Within the next ten years teachers may become able to move completely away from the course book or flat screen – even the classroom itself – and into an immersive world of instruction and learning.

By way of example, history students could be taken into the epicentre of the world’s greatest battles and conflicts, experiencing and understanding the machinations of victory first-hand.

Medical students may be provided with the opportunity to travel through the human body as if they were themselves the size of a blood cell, building their comprehension of how veins and arteries or nervous systems are interconnected.

Music students will be able to watch a VR orchestra perform their new composition in a venue of their choice, whether that be the local concert hall or even the Sydney Opera House.

Above: Sydney Opera House, Sydney, Australia

A student of Mandarin should one day be able to walk the streets of Beijing, conversing with the local native speakers and practising the regional pronunciation.

Similarly, by the year 2050, the concept of travel may have undergone a profound transformation.

Parts of the world currently inaccessible to most people, whether because the expense of flying is too great or because those places are too remote to be easily reached, will become open to visitors in the form of exact VR replicas of the original cities, rainforests, beaches, and so on.

Not only is this bound to please avid “travellers“, it could also appease the concerned environmentalist.

The number of commercial flight operators each day might well decrease as people opt for VR vacations.

Perhaps one day VR will be replaced by memory implants of having travelled as suggested by Philip K. Dick’s short story “We can remember it for you wholesale“, which was the inspiration for the 1990 film Total Recall and its 2012 remake.

Above: Philip K. Dick (1928 – 1982)

Perhaps in the future, widespread use of remotely controlled androids will enable everyone to live in idealized forms from the safety of their homes, as suggested by Robert Venditti’s comic book series The Surrogates, which became the 2009 sci-fi film Surrogates.

Despite its potential to change life as we know it today, it may even be possible that VR will ultimately fail to catch on in common usage, that HMDs will be consigned to history’s obsolescence in the same way as compact discs (CDs), mini disc players, the Walkman, cassette players, vinyl record players and personal digital assistants (PDAs).

After all, even the technology that today seems improbable will at some point become outdated.

Despite the optimism in some quarters, genuine interaction with holograms in the real world is still as far from becoming a reality as ever, so if the hologram cannot come to Muhammad then Muhammad must enter the world of the hologram.

Above: A compact disc

Above: Mini disc player

Above: Sony Walkman

Above: Cassette player

Above: Vinyl record player

Above: Personal digital assistant

However, what is currently available has begun to be used for entertainment purposes in a wide range of industries.

The music industry is one.

The music industry has sought to take advantage of holographic technology since its infancy.

There have been numerous examples – concerts and events – during which audiences have been able to watch modern vocalists sharing the stage with holographic images of performers who departed this world some time ago.

In fact, the technology has been developed to such an advanced level that it is almost possible to stage an entire concert performed by dead rock stars.

Great actors could also be resurrected.

Above: Hologram version of Buddy Holly (1936 – 1959)

Critics have argued that this is exploitative of both audiences and musicians, putting on stage an artist who has no way of refusing to be there.

This has led some people inside the music industry to predict a future of bands touring without needing to leave the rehearsal studio.

That being said, I think it would be rather unlikely for any fan to buy a ticket to watch their favourite artists, knowing that the performances they have paid to see is not technically a live show and that the musicians they admire do not wish to be present in the same room as they are.

Real-time 3-D representations of artists are becoming ever more accurate, but have less appeal for live audiences than authentic performances do.

As is often the case, the will to create something new and exciting for consumers of entertainment is hindered by the technology currently available to it.

So, if the real live artist cannot come to a concert, then perhaps it is more desirable to enter a virtual reality that brings the artist’s simulation to you.

Above: Holographic version of Roy Orbison (1936 – 1988)

All of this bothers me deeply.

For in this quest for speed, for distraction, for entertainment, for ease and comfort, we have forgotten to give ourselves the time to think and feel, which is crucial to our very existence.

Modern technology of the moment tends to pull us into life patterns that gradually degrade the ways in which each of us exists as an individual.

By immersing ourselves in VR or holographic illusion, to allow ourselves to become slaves to the machines that were designed to serve us, deemphasizes our value as individuals and the intrinsic value of an individual’s unique internal experience and creativity.

As technology gets “better and better“, as civilization becomes more and more digital, we are hurting ourselves.

The more dependent we become upon our technology, the more we lose the ability to self-determine, the more we lose our freedom.

The more we seek to become like everyone else, the more we lose ourselves.

The reality is that until we become someone, we are not ready to share our lives with someone else.

Widespread impersonal communication has demeaned interpersonal interaction.

The most important thing about technology is how it changes people.

For instance, Stanford University research demonstrated that changing the height of one’s avatar in immersive VR transforms self-esteem and social self-perception.

Technologies have become extensions of ourselves.

Different media designs stimulate different potentials in human nature.

We should not seek to make the pack mentality as efficient as possible.

We should instead seek to inspire the phenomenon of individual intelligence.

Algorithms may find correlations between what you say online and your purchases, your romantic adventures, your debts….

But a person is not a pat formula.

Being human is a quest, a mystery, a leap of faith.

Technology is meant to be an extension of our being, not a replacement of it.

I find myself thinking of the 2013 film The Congress and the 1971 sci-fi novel that inspired it – Stanislaw Lem’s The Futurological Congress.

Actress Robin Wright’s longtime agent Al (Harvey Keitel) takes her to meet Jeff Green (Danny Huston), CEO of film production company Miramount Studios, who offers to buy her likeness and digitize her into a computer-animated version of herself.

Realizing she may be unable to find future work with the emergence of this new technology, she agrees to sell the film rights to her digital image to Miramount in exchange for a hefty sum of money.

She is forced to promise never to act again.

After her body is digitally scanned, the studio will be able to make films starring her, using only computer-generated characters.

Since then, Robin’s virtual persona has become the star of a popular sci-fi action film franchise.

Twenty years later, as her contract is about to expire, Robin travels to Abrahama City, where she will speak at Miramount’s entertainment Futurological Conference in the Hotel Miramount Nagasaki, and also to renew her now-expired contract.

Abrahama City is an animated surreal Utopia that is created from figments of people’s imaginations, where anyone can become an animated avatar of themselves, but are required to use hallucinogenic drugs that allow them to enter a mutable illusionary state.

They can become anyone or anything they want to be.

Above: Scene from The Congress

While discussing her new contract, Robin learns that the studio has developed a new technology that will allow anyone to devour her or transform themselves into her.

She agrees to the deal, but has a crisis of conscience and does not believe anyone should be turned into a product.

Asking to speak to the public at the Congress, she publicly voices her contrary views, upsetting the hosts, judges and the councils of the Congress, who are unimpressed with her disapproval.

Above: Scene from The Congress

Shortly afterwards, the Congress is interrupted by an attack of a group of rebel terrorists and protesters ideologically opposed to the technology industry.

The head of the Congress is assassinated.

Returning to the unanimated real world, Robin finds herself in a dystopian environment.

The inhabitants are severely dysfunctional.

Most people have left the real world for an existence in the animated unreal world.

Above: Scene from The Congress

I am also reminded of Fahrenheit 451 and Brave New World.

Above: Movie poster for the 1966 film Fahrenheit 451

Above: Movie poster for 1980 film Brave New World

Fahrenheit 451 presents an American society where books have been personified, outlawed and burnt when found.

Ray Bradbury wrote the book as a commentary on how mass media reduces interest in reading literature, citing political correctness as the real enemy that seeks to control thought and freedom of speech.

Above: Ray Bradbury (1920 – 2012)

Between 1947 and 1948, Bradbury wrote “Bright Phoenix“, a short story about a librarian who confronts a “Chief Censor“, who burns books.

An encounter Bradbury had in 1949 with the police inspired him to write the short story “The Pedestrian” in 1951.

In “The Pedestrian“, a man going for a nighttime walk in his neighborhood is harassed and detained by the police.

In the society of “The Pedestrian“, citizens are expected to watch television as a leisurely activity, a detail that would be included in Fahrenheit 451.

The story features Leonard Mead, a citizen of a television-centered world in November 2053.

In the city the sidewalks have fallen into decay. Mead enjoys walking through the city at night, something which no one else does.

In ten years of walking by night or day, for thousands of miles, he had never met another person walking, not one in all that time.”

On one of his usual walks, he encounters a police car, which is robotic.

It is the only police unit in a city of three million as the purpose of law enforcement has disappeared with everyone watching television at night.

When asked about his profession Mead tells the car that he is a writer, but the car does not understand since no one buys books or magazines in the television-dominated society.

The police car, which is revealed to have no occupants, cannot understand why Mead would be out walking for no reason.

So it decides to take him to the Psychiatric Center for Research on Regressive Tendencies.

As the car passes through his neighborhood, Mead, locked in the confines of the back seat says, “That’s my house.”, as he points to a warm and bright house with all its lights on, unlike all the other houses.

There is no reply.

The story concludes.

The address of the main character, Leonard Mead, happens to be the address of the house in which Bradbury grew up.

This has caused speculation that this short story is actually referring to himself, or is in some related way a message to his home town of Waukegan, Illinois.

Above: Downtown Waukegan, Illinois, USA

The 60th anniversary of Fahrenheit 451 contains the short piece “The Story of Fahrenheit 451” by Jonathan R. Eller.

In it, Eller writes that Bradbury’s inspiration for the story came when he was walking down Wilshire Boulevard in Los Angeles with a friend in late 1949.

On their walk, a police cruiser pulled up and asked what they were doing.

Bradbury answered, “Well, we’re putting one foot in front of the other.

The policemen did not appreciate Ray’s joke and became suspicious of Bradbury and his friend for walking in an area where there were no pedestrians.

Inspired by this experience, he wrote “The Pedestrian“.

The short novella that would later evolve into Fahrenheit 451.

Above: “The Miracle Mile“, Wiltshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, California, USA – this stretch of Wilshire near the La Brea Tar Pits was named “Miracle Mile” for its improbable rise to prominence

What’s the matter with the clothes I’m wearing?
“Can’t you tell that your tie’s too wide?”
Maybe I should buy some old tab collars?
“Welcome back to the age of jive
Where have you been hidin’ out lately, honey?
You can’t dress trashy till you spend a lot of money”
Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the car I’m driving?
“Can’t you tell that it’s out of style?”
Should I get a set of white wall tires?
“Are you gonna cruise the Miracle Mile?
Nowadays you can’t be too sentimental
Your best bet’s a true baby blue Continental”
Hot funk, cool punk, even if it’s old junk
It’s still rock and roll to me

Oh, it doesn’t matter what they say in the papers
‘Cause it’s always been the same old scene
There’s a new band in town
But you can’t get the sound from a story in a magazine…
Aimed at your average teen

How about a pair of pink sidewinders
And a bright orange pair of pants?
“You could really be a Beau Brummell baby
If you just give it half a chance
Don’t waste your money on a new set of speakers,
You get more mileage from a cheap pair of sneakers”
Next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the crowd I’m seeing?
“Don’t you know that they’re out of touch?”
Should I try to be a straight ‘A’ student?
“If you are then you think too much
Don’t you know about the new fashion honey?
All you need are looks and a whole lotta money”
It’s the next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock and roll to me

Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

In Fahrenheit 451, Leonard’s character can be considered similar to that of Clarisse McClellan‘s uncle, who tells of a similar story repeated by her niece to Montag.

The Pedestrian” was adapted for radio and broadcast on the CBC (Canadian Broadcasting Corporation) program Theatre 10:30 (1968 – 1971).

Above: Corporate flag of the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (CBC)

The story was made into an episode of The Ray Bradbury Theatre, starring David Ogden Stiers as Leonard Mead.

Above: David Ogden Stiers (as Leonard Mead) (1942 – 2018)

Elements of both “Bright Phoenix” and “The Pedestrian” would be combined into “The Fireman“, a novella published in 1951.

Bradbury was urged to make “The Fireman” into a full novel. 

Simple pleasures and interests make one an outcast.

Bradbury recounts a history of how books lost their value as people began to embrace new media, sports, and an ever-quickening pace of life.

Books were ruthlessly abridged or degraded to accommodate shorter attention spans.

Books were condemned as sources of confusing and distressing thoughts that only complicated people’s lives.

In Aldous Huxley’s Brave New World, society’s methods of keeping its citizens peaceful is with the constant consumption of a soothing, happiness-producing drug, soma.

I am also reminded of the 2002 American dystopian sci-fi film Equilibrium:

Libria, a totalitarian city-state established by survivors of World War III, blames human emotion as the cause for the war.

Any activity or object that stimulates emotion is strictly forbidden.

Those in violation are labelled “Sense Offenders” and sentenced to death.

The population is forced to take a daily injection of “Prozium II” to suppress emotion.

Libria is governed by the Tetragrammaton Council, led by “Father“, who communicates propaganda through giant video screens throughout the city.

Above: Flag of Libria: The four Ts on the flag represent the Tetragrammaton Council.

At the pinnacle of law enforcement are the Grammaton Clerics, trained in the martial art of gun kata.

Clerics frequently raid homes to search for and destroy illegal materials – art, literature and music – executing violators on the spot.

A resistance movement, known as the “Underground“, emerges to topple Father and the Tetragrammaton Council.

The film follows John Preston (Christian Bale), an enforcement officer in a future in which feelings and artistic expression are outlawed and citizens take daily injections of powerful psychoactive drugs to suppress their emotions.

After accidentally missing a dose, Preston begins to experience emotions, which makes him question his morality and moderate his actions while attempting to remain undetected by the suspicious society in which he lives.

Ultimately, he aids the resistance movement using advanced martial arts, which he was taught by the regime he is helping to overthrow.

Above: Christian Bale (as John Preston), Equilibrium

Insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space and will to walk and think, to see and imagine, and against all that these acts embody.

We live in an age of fear of the time in-between, the time it takes to get from here to there, moments of meandering, of rushing and running.

The time in-between has been deplored as a waste, requiring reduction, silence silenced by earphones playing music, the serendipity of the scene that surrounds us is ignored by eyes downcast drawn to mobile phones.

The very ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the “useless“, is evaporating, as has appreciation of the outside – anything outside the familiar.

Mobile phones are our buffer against solitude, silence and encounters with the unknown.

But it is only in solitude and silence can we learn to love our own company and can hear our own mind.

It is encounters with the unknown through which we can learn to live and discover the myriad possibilities of existence.

Dependency on our devices is not freedom.

Dependency is merely distraction from our fears of the unknown.

Distraction ultimately leads to destruction of self.

What we’re living in?
Lemme tell ya

Yeah, it’s a wonder man can eat at all
When things are big that should be small
Who can tell what magic spells we’ll be doing for us

And I’m giving all my love to this world
Only to be told
I can’t see, I can’t breathe
No more will we be

And nothing’s gonna change the way we live
‘Cause we can always take, but never give
And now that things are changing for the worse, see
Whoa, it’s a crazy world we’re living in
And I just can’t see that half of us immersed in sin
Is all we have to give these

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground

And I’m thinking what a mess we’re in
Hard to know where to begin
If I could slip the sickly ties that earthly man has made
And now every mother can choose the color
Of her child, that’s not nature’s way

Well, that’s what they said yesterday
There’s nothing left to do, but pray
I think it’s time to find a new religion

Whoa, it’s so insane
To synthesize another strain
There’s something in these futures
That we have to be told

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground, wow

Now there is no sound
If we all live underground
And now it’s virtual insanity
Forget your virtual reality

Oh, there’s nothing so bad
As a manmade man
Oh, yeah, I know, yeah (take it to the dance floor)

I know I can’t go on

Of this virtual insanity we’re living in
Has got to change, yeah
Things will never be the same
And I can’t go on
Where we’re living in
Oh, oh, virtual insanity

Oh, this world
He’s got to change
‘Cause I just
I just can’t keep going on in this virtual, virtual insanity
That we’re living in, that we’re living in
And that virtual insanity is what is, yeah

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground, oh

Futures made of, now, virtual insanity
Now we all, we seem to be governed by a love
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
And now there is no sound, for we all live underground
Yes, we do, oh

Now this life that we live in
(Virtual insanity) it’s all going wrong
Out of the window (living in)
Do you know there is nothing worse than (virtual insanity)

A manmade man
(Virtual insanity) There’s nothing worse than
(Living in) a foolish man
(Virtual insanity) Hey!

Virtual insanity is what we’re living in, yeah
Well… It’s alright

Altnau is a small town, full of life and light and love, but one must walk its streets and stroll along its shore and meander through its apple orchards and linger on its jetty to capture its universal language.

Its past and the teacher-photographer who emerged from it and those of his ilk whose photographs captured the beauty of the canton, the country, the world, remind us that beauty is accessible to everyone, anywhere and everywhere, if only we choose to see it.

Walk away from your laptops and mobile phones.

Look up to the glory of the heavens instead.

Pull the phones from your ears.

Listen to the orchestra of songbirds, the crash of waves, and the whisper of your own thoughts.

Reject VR.

Choose reality.

Turn off the TV.

Switch off the radio.

Ignore movies that rob us of imagination.

Resist stimulants and distractions.

Learn to love life as it is in all its complexity.

Read a great work of literature.

Look at photographs and pictures.

Walk and make your own memories.

Words are the expression of thought.

Pictures are the expression of emotion.

Walking is the synchronicity of both thought and emotion in a symphony of all the senses.

Another suburban family morning.
Grandmother screaming at the wall.

We have to shout above the din of our Rice Crispies
We can’t hear anything at all.
Mother chants her litany of boredom and frustration,
But we know all her suicides are fake.

Daddy only stares into the distance
There’s only so much more that he can take.


Many miles away something crawls from the slime
At the bottom of a dark Scottish lake.

Another industrial ugly morning
The factory belches filth into the sky.
He walks unhindered through the picket lines today,
He doesn’t think to wonder why.
The secretaries pout and preen like cheap tarts in a red light street,
But all he ever thinks to do is watch.
And every single meeting with his so-called superior
Is a humiliating kick in the crotch.


Many miles away something crawls to the surface
Of a dark Scottish loch.

Another working day has ended.
Only the rush hour hell to face.
Packed like lemmings into shiny metal boxes.
Contestants in a suicidal race.
Daddy grips the wheel and stares alone into the distance,
He knows that something somewhere has to break.
He sees the family home now looming in his headlights,
The pain upstairs that makes his eyeballs ache.


Many miles away there’s a shadow on the door
Of a cottage on the shore
Of a dark Scottish lake
Many miles away [7x]

Altnau is nowhere special.

Altnau is everywhere special.

Discover your own Altnau.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Ray Bradbury, Fahrenheit 451 / The Pedestrian / Evliya Çelebi, The Book of Travels / Philip K. Dick, We can remember it for you wholesale / Aldous Huxley, Brave New World / Jamiroquai, Virtual Insanity / Billy Joel, Allentown / It’s still rock & roll to me / Movin’ Out / Jaron Lanier, You Are Not a Gadget / Stanislaw Lem, The Futurological Congress / The Police, Synchronicity II / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Louise Purwin Zobel: The Travel Writer’s Handbook

Wonderwall

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Monday 21 November 2022

Above: Cover of the single “Wonderwall“, Oasis

I have next to no memory of Miami.

Above: Images of Miami, Florida

In my travels, in my 20s, my focus was on Fort Lauderdale where my mother is buried and the Overseas Highway to Key West.

Above: Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Above: Seeming to converge in the distance, the Seven-Mile Bridge on the Florida Keys Scenic Highway west of Marathon, Florida, runs parallel to the historic Flagler Railroad Bridge of the early 1900s with the Atlantic Ocean to the South and the Gulf of Mexico to the North.

There is little I regret about my hitch-hiking days, but the lack of money I possessed meant there were many places in America that I could not afford to visit in the manner I would have wished.

The Floridan cities I recall were cities either connected with the search for my mother’s roots or en route to somewhere else.

Above: Flag of Florida

My memories of Jacksonville, St. Augustine, Fort Lauderdale, Key West, St. Petersburg, Tarpon Springs, Port St. Joe and Fort Walton Beach are strong and stark in my mind.

Above: Images of Jacksonville, Florida

Above: Images of St. Augustine, Florida

Above: Aerial view of Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Above: Southernmost Point Buoy Monument, Key West, Florida

Above: St. Petersburg, Florida

Above: Tarpon Springs, Florida

Above: Port St. Joe, Florida

Above: Fort Walton Beach, Florida

My sole memory of Miami was trying to sleep under a tractor-trailer.

In retrospect, a dumb decision.

What little I saw of Miami remains a distorted blur at best.

I regret that, for there is much of Miami that appeals to me.

Above: Miami, Florida

Miami, officially the City of Miami, known as “the 305“, “The Magic City“, and “Gateway to the Americas” is a coastal metropolis and the county seat of Miami – Dade County in South Florida.

With a population of 442,241 (2020), it is the 2nd most populous city in Florida and the 11th most populous city in the southeastern United States.

The Miami metropolitan area is the 9th largest in the US, with a population of 6.138 million people (2020).

The city has the 3rd largest skyline in the US with over 300 skyscrapers, 58 of which exceed 491 ft (150 m).

Miami is a major center and leader in finance, commerce, culture, arts, and international trade.

Miami’s metropolitan area is by far the largest urban economy in Florida and the 12th largest in the US, with a GDP of $344.9 billion (2017).

According to a 2018 UBS study of 77 world cities, Miami is the 2nd richest city in the US and 3rd richest globally in purchasing power.

Miami has a Hispanic population of 310,472, or 70.2% of the city’s population (2020).

Above: Miami, Florida

Downtown Miami has one of the largest concentrations of international banks in the US and is home to many large national and international companies.

Above: Miami, Florida

The Health District is home to several major University of Miami-affiliated hospital and health facilities, including Jackson Memorial, the nation’s largest hospital with 1,547 beds, and the Leonard M. Miller School of Medicine, the University of Miami’s academic medical center and teaching hospital, and others engaged in health-related care and research. 

Above: Jackson Memorial Hospital, Miami, Florida

Port Miami, the city’s seaport, is the busiest cruise port in the world in both passenger traffic and cruise lines.

Above: Port of Miami, Miami, Florida

Miami is the 2nd largest tourism hub for international visitors, after New York City. 

Miami has sometimes been called the Gateway to Latin America because of the magnitude of its commercial and cultural ties to the region.

In 2019, Miami ranked 7th in the US in business activity, human capital, information exchange, cultural experience and political engagement.

Above: Miami, Florida

Miami – Dade College, with more than 165,000 students, is America’s largest institution of higher learning, and one of the country’s best community college systems.

This community college has locations in Hialeah, Homestead, Kendall, Downtown Miami, and North Miami as well as locations all around Miami proper.

In Coral Gables is the University of Miami, one of the best-known universities in Florida.

Above: Otto G. Richter Library, University of Miami, Coral Gables, Florida

One of the state’s largest universities, Florida International University (more commonly FIU), is in University Park, just to the west of the Miami city limits.

Miami was named in 1896 after the Miami River, derived from Mayaimi, the historic name of Lake Okeechobee and the Native Americans who lived around it.

Above: Mouth of the Miami River, Brickell Key, Florida

The Tequesta tribe occupied the Miami area for around 2,000 years before contact with Europeans.

A village of hundreds of people, dating to 600 BCE, was located at the mouth of the Miami River.

It is believed that the entire tribe migrated to Cuba by the mid-1700s.

Above: Bronze statue of a Tequesta warrior and his family on the Brickell Avenue Bridge, Miami, Florida 

In 1566, Admiral Pedro Menéndez de Avilés, Florida’s first governor, claimed the area for Spain.

Above: Pedro Menéndez de Avilés (1519 – 1574)

Above: Flag of the Spanish Empire (1492 – 1976)

A Spanish mission was constructed one year later.

Spain and Britain successively ruled Florida until Spain ceded it to the United States in 1821.

In 1836, the US built Fort Dallas on the banks of the Miami River as part of their development of the Florida Territory and their attempt to suppress and remove the Seminoles.

As a result, the Miami area became a site of fighting in the Second Seminole War (1835 – 1842), “the longest and most costly of the Indian conflicts of the United States”.

Above: Lummus Park Historic District, Miami, Florida –  Old plantation slave quarters, moved here from Fort Dallas

Above: This view of a Seminole village shows the log cabins they lived in prior to the disruptions of the Second Seminole War.

Miami is noted as the only major city in the United States founded by a woman. 

Julia Tuttle, a local citrus grower and a wealthy Cleveland native, was the original owner of the land upon which the city was built.

In the late 19th century, the area was known as “Biscayne Bay Country“.

Reports described it as a promising wilderness and “one of the finest building sites in Florida“.

The Great Freeze of 1894 – 1895 hastened Miami’s growth, as the crops there were the only ones in Florida that survived.

Above: Damage to an orange grove because of cold – Bartow, Florida – 1 January 1895

(Orlando reached an all-time record low of 18 °F (−8 °C) on 29 December 1894.

Above: Orlando, Florida

In the second cold wave (1895), West Palm Beach recorded all time record low of 27 °F (−3 °C) on 9 February 1895.

Above: West Palm Beach, Florida

A snowstorm produced unprecedented snowfall amounts along the Gulf Coast, including 22 inches (56 cm) in Houston, Texas.

Above: States that border the Gulf of Mexico are shown in red.

Above: Houston, Texas

Snow fell as far south as Tampico, Mexico, within the Tropic of Cancer, the lowest latitude in North America that snow has been recorded at sea level.)

Above: Plaza de la Libertad, Centro Historico, Tampico, Tamaulipas State, Mexico

Above: World map with the Tropic of Cancer (red line)

Julia Tuttle subsequently convinced railroad tycoon Henry Flagler to extend his Florida East Coat Railway to the region, for which she became known as “the mother of Miami“.

Above: Henry Morrison Flagler (1830 – 1913)

Above: Route of the Florida East Coast Railroad (red line)

Miami was officially incorporated as a city on 28 July 1896, with a population of just over 300.

African American labor played a crucial role in Miami’s early development.

Above: Julia DeForest Tuttle (1849 – 1898)

During the early 20th century, migrants from the Bahamas and African Americans constituted 40% of the city’s population. 

Despite their role in the city’s growth, their community was limited to a small space.

When landlords began to rent homes to African-Americans around Avenue J (what would later become NW Fifth Avenue), a gang of white men with torches marched through the neighborhood and warned the residents to move or be bombed.

Above: Avenue J, Miami, Florida

Miami prospered during the 1920s with an increase in population and development in infrastructure as northerners moved to the city.

The legacy of Jim Crow was embedded in these developments.

The Jim Crow laws were state and local laws enforcing racial segregation in the Southern US.

Above: Cover to early edition of “Jump Jim Crow” sheet music – Thomas D. Rice (1908 – 1960) is pictured in his blackface role:

He was performing at the Bowery Theatre (New York City)(also known as the “American Theatre“) at the time.

This image was highly influential on later Jim Crow and minstrelsy images.

Miami’s chief of police at the time, Howard Leslie Quigg, did not hide the fact that he, like many other white Miami police officers, was a member of the Ku Klux Klan.

Unsurprisingly, these officers enforced social codes far beyond the written law.

Quigg, for example, “personally and publicly beat a colored bellboy to death for speaking directly to a white woman“.

Above: Howard Leslie Quigg (1888 – 1980)

Above: Flag of the Ku Klux Klan

The collapse of the Florida land boom of the 1920s, the 1926 Miami Hurricane, and the Great Depression in the 1930s slowed development.

(The Florida land boom of the 1920s was Florida’s first real estate bubble.

This pioneering era of Florida land speculation lasted from 1924 to 1926 and attracted investors from all over the nation.

The land boom left behind entirely new, planned developments incorporated into towns and cities.

Major investors and speculators left behind a new history of racially deed restricted properties that segregated cities for decades.

Among those cities at the center of this bubble were Miami Beach, Coral Gables, Hialeah, Miami Springs, Opa-locka, Miami Shores and Hollywood.

Above: Miami Beach, Florida

Above: Coral Gables, Florida

Above: Palm Avenue, Hialeah, Florida

Above: Hialeah Park taken in the 1930s, “Hialeah Park, Fla., the world’s greatest race course, Miami Jockey Club.

Above: The Glenn H. Curtiss House, located at 500 Deer Run in Miami Springs, Florida, was built in 1925 by aviation pioneer and real estate developer Glenn Hammond Curtiss (1878 – 1930).

It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2001.

Above: City Hall, Opa Locka, Florida

Above: Downtown, Miami Shores, Florida

Above: Hollywood, Florida

It also left behind the remains of failed development projects such as:

  • Aladdin City

Above: Original lot plan of Aladdin City (originally platted and still existing streets in green), 1 January 1927

  • Fulford-by-the-Sea

Above: Fulford by the Sea Monument, North Miami Beach, Florida

  • Isola di Lolando

Above: Isola di Lolando is an unfinished artificial island in Biscayne Bay, Florida.

Hurricane damage and economic collapse caused the project to be abandoned shortly after the start of construction, but pilings remain visible in the bay and are a hazard to navigation.

  • Boca Raton

Above: Boca Raton, Florida

  • Okeelanta

Above: Photograph of the house of Thomas E. Will, the founder of Okeelanta, Florida, the Everglades’ first planned community, on the North New River Canal in Okeelanta, 9 September 1916

  • Palm Beach Ocean

Above: Sailfish Marina, Singer Island (Palm Beach Ocean), Florida

The land boom shaped Florida’s future for decades and created entire new cities out of the Everglades land that remain today.

The story includes many parallels to the real estate boom of the 2000s, including the forces of outside speculators, easy credit access for buyers, and rapidly appreciating property values, ending in a financial collapse that ruined thousands of investors and property owners, and crippled the local economy for years thereafter.

Proving once again the adage that those who do not learn from history was destined to repeat it.)

(The Great Miami Hurricane of 1926 was a large and intense tropical cyclone that devastated the Greater Miami area and caused catastrophic damage in the Bahamas and the US Gulf Coast in September 1926, accruing a US $100 million damage toll.

As a result of the devastation wrought by the hurricane in Florida, the Land Boom in Florida ended.

The hurricane represented an early start to the Great Depression in the aftermath of the state’s 1920s land boom.

It has been estimated that a similar hurricane would cause about $235 billion in damage if it were to hit Miami today.)

Above: Damage from 1926 hurricane, Miami Beach, Florida

(The Great Depression was a period of great economic depression worldwide between 1929 and 1939 became evident after a major fall in stock prices in the US.

The economic contagion began around September and led to the Wall Street stock market crash of 24 October 1929 (Black Thursday).

The economic shock impacted most countries across the world to varying degrees.

It was the longest, deepest, and most widespread depression of the 20th century.

Between 1929 and 1932, worldwide gross domestic price (GDP) fell by an estimated 15%.

By comparison, worldwide GDP fell by less than 1% from 2008 to 2009 during the Great Recession.

Some economies started to recover by the mid-1930s.

However, in many countries, the negative effects of the Great Depression lasted until the beginning of World War II. 

Devastating effects were seen in both rich and poor countries with falling personal income, prices, tax revenues, and profits.

International trade fell by more than 50%, unemployment in the US rose to 23% and in some countries rose as high as 33%.

Cities around the world were hit hard, especially those dependent on heavy industry.

Construction was virtually halted in many countries.

Farming communities and rural areas suffered as crop prices fell by about 60%.

Faced with plummeting demand and few job alternatives, areas dependent on primary sector industries suffered the most.

Economic historians usually consider the catalyst of the Great Depression to be the sudden devastating collapse of US stock market prices, starting on 24 October 1929.

However, some dispute this conclusion, seeing the stock crash less as a cause of the Depression and more as a symptom of the rising nervousness of investors partly due to gradual price declines caused by falling sales of consumer goods (as a result of overproduction because of new production techniques, falling exports and income inequality, among other factors) that had already been underway as part of a gradual Depression.)

Above: Poor mother and children during the Great Depression. Elm Grove, Oklahoma County, Oklahoma, 1 August 1936

It was the city’s support of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s New Deal that helped the city rebuild.

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945) (US President: 1933 – 1945)

Roosevelt almost lost his life, however, when Giuseppe Zangara attempted to assassinate Roosevelt when he came to Miami to thank the city for its support of the New Deal.

On 15 February 1933, 17 days before Roosevelt’s inauguration, during an impromptu speech at night from the back of an open car by Roosevelt, Zangara fired five shots with a handgun he had purchased a couple of days before.

Zangara, armed with a .32-caliber pistol he had bought for $8 (equivalent to $170 in 2021) at a local pawn shop, joined the crowd of spectators, but as he was only 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, he was unable to see over other people and had to stand on a wobbly metal folding chair, peering over the hat of Lillian Cross to get a clear aim at his target.

He placed his gun over Mrs. Cross’ right shoulder.

(She was only about 4 inches taller than he was and weighed 105 pounds)

After Zangara fired the first shot, Cross and others grabbed his arm, and he fired four more shots wildly.

Five people were hit:

  • Mrs. Joseph H. Gill (seriously wounded in the abdomen)
  • Miss Margaret Kruis of Newark, New Jersey (minor wound in hand and a scalp wound)
  • New York detective/bodyguard William Sinnott (superficial head wound)
  • Russell Caldwell of Miami (flesh wound on the forehead)
  • Chicago Mayor Anton Cermak, who was standing on the running board of the car next to Roosevelt.
  • Mrs Cross had powder burns on her right cheek.
  • Secret Service agent Bob Clark had a grazed hand, possibly caused by the bullet that struck Cermak. 
  • The intended target, Roosevelt, was unharmed.

Roosevelt cradled the mortally wounded Cermak in his arms as the car rushed to the hospital.

After arriving there, Cermak spoke to Roosevelt, and before he died 19 days later, allegedly uttered the line that is engraved on his tomb:

I’m glad it was me, not you.

Above: Anton Cermak (1873 – 1933)

Above: Giuseppe Zangara (1900 – 1933)

The New Deal was a series of programs, public work projects, financial reforms, and regulations enacted between 1933 and 1939.

Major federal programs agencies included the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) (1933 – 1942), the Works Progress Administration (WPA) (1935 – 1943), the Civil Works Administration (CWA) (1933 – 1934), the Farm Security Administration (FSA) (1937 – 1946), the National Industrial Recovery Act of 1933 (NIRA) and the Social Security Administration (SSA).

They provided support for farmers, the unemployed, youth, and the elderly.

The New Deal included new constraints and safeguards on the banking industry and efforts to re-inflate the economy after prices had fallen sharply.

New Deal programs included both laws passed by Congress as well as presidential executive orders.

Above; Construction of the Huntsville High School athletic field (Goldsmith-Schiffman Stadium) in Huntsville, Alabama

Above: NRA (National Recovery Administration) member: We Do Our Part

When World War II (1939 – 1945) began, Miami became a base for US defense against German submarines due to its prime location on the southern coast of Florida.

When a German U-boat sank a US tanker off Florida’s coast, the majority of South Florida was converted into military headquarters for the remainder of World War II.

The Army’s World War II legacy in Miami is a school designed for anti-U-boat warfare.

Above: German U-boat submarine

This brought an increase in Miami’s population:

172,172 people lived in the city by 1940.

The city’s nickname, The Magic City, came from its rapid growth, which was noticed by winter visitors who remarked that the city grew so much from one year to the next that it was like magic.

After Fidel Castro rose to power in Cuba following the Cuban Revolution (1953 – 1959), many wealthy Cubans sought refuge in Miami, further increasing the city’s population.

Above: Fidel Castro (1926 – 2016)

Above: Flag of Cuba

Miami developed new businesses and cultural amenities as part of the New South in the 1980s and 1990s.

At the same time, South Florida weathered social problems related to drug wars, immigration from Haiti and Latin America, and the widespread destruction of Hurricane Andrew.

Above: Title screen, TV series Miami Vice (1984 – 1989)

Above: Movie poster, Miami Vice (2006)

Above: Flag of Haiti

Above: Hurricane Andrewnear peak intensity east of the Bahamas, 23 August 1992

Racial and cultural tensions sometimes sparked, but the city developed in the latter half of the 20th century as a major international, financial, and cultural center.

It is the second-largest US city with a Spanish-speaking majority (after El Paso, Texas), and the largest city with a Cuban-American plurality.

Above: El Paso, Texas

If you are not from the US but wish to work here, you will need a work visa. 

If you try to work while holding a tourist visa, you are still considered an illegal immigrant in the US.

Above: Sample of a tourist visa

The Immigration and Nationalization Services (INS) conduct frequent illegal immigrant checks in Miami businesses since Miami has numerous refugees from Cuba, Haiti and other nearby countries.

If you don’t have the right visa, you may not get a job in Miami.

There is an exception to getting work without a visa in Miami, however.

Above: Miami, Florida

Since yachts and cruise ships sail on international waters, these companies can freely hire any person they like.

Non-US citizens will still require a valid seaman’s visa, however, to land in US ports.

Above: Sample of a seafarer’s visa

I haven’t the foggiest idea of how to obtain such a prize, but my understanding is that apart from introducing yourself to boat owners at the docks, the primary ways to find a crewing position in the US are by registering with a crewing agency, staying in a crew house where you are likely to hear of forthcoming vacancies, answering an advert on a yachting website or hanging around a yachting supply store, some of which have noticeboards.

If intending to sign up with a crewing agency, it is essential to do so in person.

At that time you can enquire about visas, though you are likely to be told that it is permissible to join the crew of a foreign-registered yacht on a tourist visa provided you don’t cruise in American waters for longer than 29 days (whereupon you should have a B-1 business visa).

A number of crewing agencies are located north of Miami in Fort Lauderdale, the yachting capital of Florida, including Crewfinders and Elite Crew International.

The website Crewfinders International has links to accommodation for people seeking crew positions.

People working or staying at one of the many crew houses in Fort Lauderdale will soon tell you the agencies with which it is worth registering.

Experienced crew often bypass the agencies and simply ask captains directly.

Cooks are especially in demand.

Above: Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Foodies and chefs alike herald Miami for its unique American cuisine.

Created in the 1990s, the cuisine alternatively known as New World, Nuevo Latino or Flori-bbean cuisine blends local produce, Latin American and Caribbean culinary tradition and the technical skills required in European cooking.

Above: Mangu with veggie meat

Above: Asado Uruguayo

Above: Sweet potato crusted salmon on salad

Miami may be known for its Latin American cuisine (especially its Cuban cuisine but also cuisines from South American countries such as Colombia), but there are other different kinds of restaurants to be found around the city.

In addition to stand-alone Chinese, Japanese, Middle Eastern, and Italian (among others) restaurants, there are cafés, steakhouses and restaurants operating from boutique hotels, as well as chain restaurants such as TGI Fridays and Ben & Jerry’s.

Above: Tropical Chinese Restaurant Yorumlari, Miami, Florida

Above: Doraku Japanese Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Above: Layali Middle Eastern Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Above: Alloy Italian Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Miami is known for having nightclubs double as restaurants throughout the city.

Most of these restaurants, such as Tantra, BED and the Pearl Restaurant and Champagne Lounge (attached to Nikki Beach), are found throughout South Beach.

Above: B.E.D. Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Above: Pearl Restaurant, Miami, Florida

However, some of these restaurants/nightclubs like Grass Lounge can be found in the Design District (north of downtown but south of North Miami).

Above: Grass Restaurant, Miami, Florida

If many of Miami’s premiere restaurants don’t fit into your daily budget, consider eating during Miami Restaurant Month (better known as Miami Spice) in August and September.

Miami’s dining scene reflects burgeoning diversity, mixing exotic newcomer restaurants with long-standing institutions, often seasoned by Latin influence and hot winds of the Caribbean.

New World cuisine, a culinary counterpart to accompany Miami’s New World Symphony, provides a loose fusion of Latin, Asian, and Caribbean flavors utilizing fresh, area-grown ingredients.

Innovative restaurateurs and chefs similarly reel in patrons with Floribbean-flavored seafood fare, while keeping true to down-home Florida favorites.

Don’t be fooled by the plethora of super lean model types you’re likely to see posing throughout Miami.

Contrary to popular belief, dining in this city is as much a sport as the in-line skating on Ocean Drive.

With over 6,000 restaurants to choose from, dining out in Miami has become a passionate pastime for locals and visitors alike.

Its star chefs have fused Californian-Asian with Caribbean and Latin elements to create a world-class flavor all its own: Floribbean.

Think mango chutney splashed over fresh swordfish or a spicy sushi sauce served alongside Peruvian ceviche.

Whatever you’re craving, Miami’s got it — with the exception of decent Chinese food and a New York-style slice of pizza.

On the mainland — especially in Coral Gables, and, more recently, downtown and on Brickell Avenue — you can also experience fine, creative dining without the pretense.

There are several Peruvian restaurants in Kendale Lakes, out of the way, but worth it.

Nightlife in Miami consists of upscale hotel clubs, independent bars frequented by locals (including sports bars) and nightclubs.

Most hotel bars and independent bars turn the other cheek at your physical appearance, but you have to dress to impress (which does not mean dress like a stripper) to get into a nightclub.

Also remember to never, under any circumstances, insult the doormen and/or nightclub employees that will grant you entry or touch the velvet ropes or you may as well be sitting on the opposite side of the clamoring masses trying to get in.

Attempting to tip the doormen and claiming that you know employees that work in the nightclubs (unless you actually called and reserved a table or a spot on the VIP list) is also considered an affront.

Getting to the club unfashionably early and pushing through the crowd (and not the doormen) also can help make you stand out in the crowd.

Finally, most nightclubs won’t admit groups of men unless those men are waiting in front of a gay bar.

Bring some women or leave the pack if you’re desperate to get in.

And once you get in, remember that the charge to get in these clubs can cost up to $20 — cash only (some clubs, however, mercifully have ATMs — that can charge up to $7 for a withdrawal).

Popular drinks in Miami include the Cuba Libre and the mojito.

Above: Cuba Libre

Above: Mojito

Although tourists generally consider Miami Beach to be part of Miami, Miami Beach is its own municipality.

Miami Beach sits on a barrier island east of Miami and Biscayne Bay.

It is home to lots of beach resorts and is one of the most popular spring break party destinations in the world.

But I don’t want to talk about Miami Beach, only Miami itself.

Above: Miami Beach, Florida

Some other sights associated with Miami, like the Miami Zoo and the Miami Dolphins football team, are in other suburbs within Miami – Dade County, and two other institutions associated with Miami, the Florida Panthers hockey team and Inter Miami CF soccer team, play home games in Broward County.

Above: Logo of the Miami Dolphins National Football League (NFL) team

Above: Logo of the Florida Panthers National Hockey League (NHL) team

Why there is hockey in tropical places still mystifies me.

The City of Miami is divided into seven districts: Downtown, MiMo Boulevard, the Design District, Coconut Grove, Little Havana, Overtown and Midtown.

Downtown is Miami’s Central Business District (CBD) with its skies full of scrapers.

Above: Downtown Miami

MiMo is home to post WW2 modern architecture.

Above: MiMo District, Miami

The Design District is a small artsy neighbourhood north of Downtown.

Above: Design District, Miami

Coconut Grove is a cosmopolitan community on the coast south of Downtown.

Above: Coconut Grove

Little Havana is a heavily Latin American neighborhood – now inhabited by Central and South Americans rather than Cubans.

Above: Little Havana, Miami

Overtown is a historic African-American neighborhood.

Midtown is….well, Midtown.

Above: Midtown Miami

The city has also been the base for cocaine smuggling, depicted in the 1983 film Scarface.

Miami’s crime rate is a routine topic of news media, but the city is only relatively dangerous for the passing tourist in certain areas.

Almost all crime is related to the illegal drug trade, owing to Miami’s proximity to the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, which makes it a major transit point for narcotics from South America. 

Overtown (next to Liberty City) has the highest violent crime rate in the city and is best avoided altogether.

Above: Overtown, Miami, Florida

Opalocka / Miami Garden and Little Haiti are also best avoided at night.

Above: Opalocka, Florida

Above: Miami Garden, Florida

Above: Little Haiti, Miami, Florida

If you are in any crime-afflicted neighborhood, take the same precautions as you would in other dangerous neighborhoods in the US:

Mind your own business.

Be aware of your surroundings at night and in high-traffic areas.

Get to your destination quickly.

Avoid wearing flashy jewelry and electronics.

Because of its proximity to the Tropic of Cancer, Miami is generally hot.

The summer months of June–September will see most daytime highs over 90°F (32°C).

Combined with the region’s humidity, these can make for stifling temperatures, both day and night.

You won’t see nearly a car or home without running air conditioning.

Winters average an impressive 75°F (24°C) for daytime temperatures and nights are slightly cooler.

During June to November, rain and thunderstorms can be expected and are most common in the afternoon hours.

Rain is known to fall heavily for a few minutes, to stop entirely, and then to begin again.

Knowing its mercurial nature, local residents often drive or go outside in rainy weather to enjoy its cooling effect or to make good use of breaks in the storm.

Above: Miami, Florida

Miami has the largest Latin American population outside of Latin America, with nearly 65% of its population either from Latin America or of Latin American ancestry. 

Spanish is a language often used for day-to-day discourse in many places, although English is the language of preference, especially when dealing with business and government.

Many locals do not speak English, but this is usually centered among shops and restaurants in residential communities and rarely the case in large tourist areas or the downtown district.

Even when encountering a local who does not speak English, you can easily find another local to help with translation if needed, since most of the population is fluently bilingual.

In certain neighborhoods, such as Little Havana and Hialeah, most locals will address a person first in Spanish and then in English.

Spanglish“, a mixture of English and Spanish, is a somewhat common occurrence (but less so than in the American Southwest), with bilingual locals switching between English and Spanish mid-sentence and occasionally replacing a common English word for its Spanish equivalent and vice versa.

Haitian Creole is another language heard primarily in northern Miami.

It is common for a person to hear a conversation in this French-based Creole when riding public transportation or sitting at a restaurant.

Many signs and public announcements are in English, Spanish and Haitian Creole because of Miami’s diverse immigrant population.

Unlike Spanish, Haitian Creole is generally centered among the Haitian neighborhoods in northern Miami.

Most Haitians are more adapted to English than their Hispanic neighbors. 

Above: Location of Haiti (in green)

Portuguese and French are other languages that may be encountered in Miami.

These languages tend to be spoken mainly around tourist areas.

Most speakers of these languages speak English as well.

Above: Map of the Portuguese language in the world   Dark green: Native language.   Green: Official and administrative language.   Light Green: Cultural or secondary language.   Yellow: Portuguese-based creole. Green square: Portuguese speaking minorities.

Above: The French language in the world

Graffiti is art that is written, painted or drawn on a wall or other surface, usually without permission and within public view. 

Graffiti ranges from simple written words to elaborate wall paintings.

It has existed since ancient times, with examples dating back to ancient Egypt, ancient Greece and the Roman Empire.

Graffiti is a controversial subject.

In most countries, marking or painting property without permission is considered by property owners and civic authorities as defacement and vandalism, which it is a punishable crime, citing the use of graffiti by street gangs to mark territory or to serve as an indicator of gang-related activities.

Graffiti has become visualized as a growing urban “problem” for many cities in industrialized nations, spreading from the New York City subway system and Philadelphia in the early 1970s to the rest of the United States and Europe and other world regions.

Above: A former roof felt factory in Santalahti, Tampere, Finland. Most of the building, inside and outside, is covered in graffiti.

Graffiti is free speech, publicly expressed.

Graffiti is a protest against property, against ownership, against authority.

It is a defiance of punishment, of territory, of dominance.

It is visualized as a growing urban problem when it might be better defined as a challenge to the growing problems of urbanization.

Above: Graffiti on a wall in Čakovec, Croatia

The first known example of “modern style” graffiti survives in the ancient Greek city of Ephesus (in modern-day Türkiye).

Local guides say it is an advertisement for prostitution.

Above: Ephesus graffiti

Sometimes I wonder if modern style has become an advertisement for prostitution.

Men are quite capable of providing for themselves.

It should be impossible to bribe him.

He would, in fact, be above bribery altogether were it not for one basic need which has to be satisfied.

The need for physical contact with a woman’s body.

This need is so strong and its fulfillment gives men such intense pleasure that one suspects that it might be the sole reason for his voluntary enslavement to women.

His longing for this subjection may even be a facet of his sexual make-up.

The basis of any economy is a system of barter.

Therefore, someone demanding a service must be able to offer something of equal value in exchange for it, but as a man must fulfill his sexual desires and since he tends to want to possess exclusive rights of access to one woman, the prices have risen to an extortionate level.

This has made it possible for women to follow a system of exploitation.

No man remains exempt.

The concept of femininity is essentially sociological, not biological.

Even a homosexual is unlikely to escape without paying his dues.

The partner whose sexual drive is less developed quickly discovers the weak points of the other, whose drive is more intense, and manipulates him accordingly.

A man could, should, condition his sexual needs, but instead he allows them to be encouraged whenever possible – by women, since their interests are mainly directed towards a man’s libido.

Man is never dressed in such a way as to awaken sexual desire in the opposite sex, but it is very much the contrary with women.

The curves of breast and hip are exaggerated by tight-fitting clothes.

The length of leg, the shape of calf and ankle are enhanced.

Her lips and eyes beckon, moist with make-up.

Her hair gleams.

And to what purpose?

To stimulate desire for her.

Woman offers her wares like goods in a shop window, but one must pay for such alluring merchandise.

No money, no merchandise.

No wonder men think that is no greater happiness than to make enough money to take the merchandise home.

Reward a man with sex and he will be more obedient to a woman.

The whole world beckons with the promise of adventure.

Yet so strong is his sex drive that he gladly foregoes the world for a woman.

But a woman can never be a substitute for what he has lost.

Everything follows a strict system of supply and demand.

She will give him sex if he does whatever she demands.

The rules are rigid.

Surprise is small and scarcely significant.

Control his manhood, control the man.

Imagine a world where women were not merely walking advertisements for sex, not merely the graffiti of society.

Imagine a world where men were not obsessed with sex.

Man is a thinking creature.

He has a thirst for knowledge.

He wants to know what the world around him looks like and how it functions.

He draws conclusions from the data he encounters.

He makes something new out of the information achieved from his conclusions.

As a result of his exceptionally wide, multidimensional emotional scale, he not only registers the commonplace in fine gradations, but he creates and discovers new emotional values and makes them accessible to others through sensible descriptions or recreates them as an artist.

Above: Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

I am in no way suggesting that the above descriptions are true for all men nor am I suggesting that they cannot be true for women.

What I am saying is that potential is determined by one’s choices and that more people choose the path of least resistance – men’s subjugation to the societal standards set by women and women choosing comfort over complication.

Man’s curiosity is the most impressive quality of all.

Too many women take an interest only in subjects that have an immediate personal usefulness to her.

Man’s curiosity is something quite different.

His desire for knowledge has no personal implications, is purely objective and, in the long run, is more practical than a woman’s attitude.

Man’s curiosity is universal.

There is almost nothing that does not interest him.

Even subjects out of his province hold his interest.

Men not only observe the world around them, it is in their nature to make comparisons and to apply the knowledge they have gained themselves with the ultimate aim to transform this knowledge into something else, something new.

Men and woman have the exact same potential.

But they don’t make the same choices.

Practically all the inventions and discoveries in this world have been made by men.

Why is that?

Certainly where women have been suppressed, her opportunities to use her potential have been denied.

But in nations where women are more free, still many women choose to deny their potential and seek to be provided for rather than risk the difficulties of struggling along without a male companion.

With his many gifts man would appear to be ideally suited, both mentally and physically, to lead a life both fulfilled and free.

Instead he serves those who will not (women) or cannot (children) lead and calls this service noble.

Man who is capable of leading a life that is perfect as possible gladly gives that potential up to offer himself up to the female sex who cannot see man’s potential beyond how it serves her.

Man has come into the world to learn, to work and to father children.

His sons, in their turn, will learn to work and produce children.

Such has it ever been, such will it ever be.

If a young man gets married, starts a family and spends the rest of his life working at a soul-destroying job, he is held up as an example of virtue and responsibility.

The other type of man, living only for himself, working only for himself, sleeping where and when he wants, and facing women where he meets her, on equal terms and not as her servant, is rejected by society.

The free unshackled man has no place in its midst.

How depressing it is to see men, year after year, betraying all that they were born to.

New worlds could be discovered, worlds one hardly dares even to dream of could be opened by the minds, strength and intelligence of men.

Things to make life fuller and richer – their own life – and more worthwhile could be developed.

Instead, they forsake all these tremendous potentials and permit their minds and bodies to be shunted onto sidings to serve the animal existence and needs of entitled women.

With his mind, his strength and his imagination, all intended for the creation of new worlds, he opts instead for the preservation and improvement of the old.

We are so accustomed to men doing everything with women in view that anything else seems unthinkable.

Couldn’t composers create something apart from love songs?

Couldn’t writers give up their romantic novels and love poems and write literature?

Can painters only produce nudes and profiles of women, abstract or realistic?

Why can’t we have something new after all these millennia, something we have never seen before?

Imagine a world where men really used their intelligence and imagination instead of wasting it.

Imagine a world where men try living themselves.

Instead of making wars destined only to defend property, men should be travelling to worlds never dreamed of.

I am all for women’s equality, if only they would step up and do for themselves all that they demand from men.

But the prevailing attitude in the West is:

Why should they?

Policies for marriage, divorce, inheritance, motherhood, widowhood, old age and life ensure her increasing wealth.

They have complete psychological control over men and increasingly material control as well.

While men foolishly believe in their subjugation that they are responsible for the suppression of women, who, if they so choose could use their equal potential for the benefit of all humankind not just the individual woman.

There is this prevailing attitude that women are charming gracious creatures, fairy princesses, angels from another world, too good for men themselves and for their earthly existence.

While the reverse is true.

Men pointlessly wonder why they are not good enough for a woman upon whom he has set his sights, while never stopping to consider that she might not be good enough for him.

Besides beauty – beauty wiped away with a wet tissue, for, like men, most women are average – and booty, what else does she bring to a man’s life?

We truly want to believe that there is more.

Often we are sadly disappointed.

Tear off their masks and their tinkling bracelets, their frilly blouses and gold-leather sandals.

What is left?

Unused potential, deliberately dampened for material comfort.

Men as thinking creatures sense this disparity and young men express it.

Above: Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa

Throughout history, all the peoples of the Earth have practised some kind of religion.

It has been a central force in their lives.

The caves of Lascaux with their beautiful animal paintings – perhaps early graffiti? – are our earliest records of masculine ritual.

Above: Lascaux painting

In Aboriginal society, religious and associated cultural practices took up 70% of the time of mature men.

Even today, in spite of the divisions and bigotries that religion can foster, the forces of good – from social welfare to world peace – have a strong religious component.

The most potent and effective men and women are those with religious underpinnings to their life.

Why does religion matter?

Often we feel lost and confused and cannot figure our lives out.

At other times there is a feeling that is elusive but unmistakable:

That life is beautiful and that you are in the flow of things.

Ordinary ups and downs, pains and pleasures don’t matter when you feel you are on the right track.

Spirituality” simply means the direct experience of something special in life and living.

Religion – organized group activity and ritual – is an attempt to hold on to that feeling and make it last.

Religion is a container, which sometimes can capture the quicksilver of real spiritual experience and sometimes cannot.

People today have lost touch with the possibilities of ritual.

They think it has no use.

Group efforts are important ways to help each other stay focused on what matters, put a spiritual depth into our lives and pull our perspective back to the big picture and away from trivial concerns.

The brand of religion is not so important.

The true differences between religions are only differences of style and technique.

Any spiritual path will do.

We seek the connection beyond words with the holy, the ineffable, the unspeakable.

It is through giving into that deep desire that we feel our grief, our joy and our anger.

The longing for connection can take us out of our personal dramas and into our deepest feelings.

Then we feel alive and human, full of rich emotional experience.

Above: Albrecht Dürer’s Praying Hands

But the majority believe in nothing.

As a result, we are ill-equipped to answer or handle any of life’s deeper questions.

Modern man, for all his bravado, is very frail in the face of difficulties.

Suicide, cynicism, greed, addiction, wait close by.

The writing is on the wall.

We scream, silently, living lives of quiet desperation.

I view graffiti as potential poetry.

And a poet’s job is not to save the soul of a man, but to make it worth saving.

Artists, great and small, deserve acclaim, because they show us the world in a way that is fresh, appreciative and alive.

The opposite of art is habit.

Much of life is ruined for us by a blanket or shroud of familiarity that descends between us and everything that matters.

Habit dulls our senses and stops us appreciating everything, from the beauty of a sunset to our work and our friends.

Above: Sunset, Miami, Florida

Children don’t suffer from habit, which is why they get excited by some very key but simple things, like puddles, jumping on the bed, sand, and fresh bread.

But we adults get spoiled about everything, which is why we seek ever more powerful stimulants (like fame and love).

The trick is to recover the powers of appreciation of a child in adulthood to strip the veil of habit and therefore to start to appreciate daily life with a new sensitivity.

This is what one group in the population does all the time:

Artists.

Above: Street art, Cancun, Mexico

Artists are people who know how to strip habit away and return life to its glory, when they show us water lilies or services stations or buildings in a new light.

Above: Claude Monet, The Water Lilies – Setting Sun, 1926, Musée de l’Orangerie, Paris, France

Above: Edward Hopper, Gas, 1940, Museum of Modern Art, New York City, New York, USA

Above: Street art, Budapest, Hungary

The goal is not that we should necessarily make art or be someone who hangs out in museums all the time.

Above: Vincent van Gogh (1853 – 1890), Self Portrait, 1889

Above: Pierce Brosnan (Thomas Crown), Scene from The Thomas Crown Affair (1999)

Above: Vincent van Gogh, Noon – rest after work, 1890

The idea is to get us to look at the world, our world, with some of the same generosity as an artist, which would mean taking pleasure in simple things, like water, the sky, or a shaft of light on a piece of paper.

To know how to bring out the charm and the value of the everyday, like reading in a train, driving at night, smelling flowers in springtime, and looking at the changing light of the sun on the sea.

To be filled with hope and gratitude.

Life is not necessarily dull and without excitement.

It is just that one forgets to look at it in the right way.

We forget what being alive, fully alive, actually feels like.

To appreciate life with greater intensity.

It is not life which is mediocre so much as the image of it we possess.

The reason why life may be judged to be trivial, although at certain moments it seems to us so beautiful, is that we form our judgment ordinarily not on the evidence of life itself, but in its quite different images which preserve nothing of life.

Therefore, we judge it disparagingly.

That is why artists, great and small, are so important.

Their work reminds us that life is truly beautiful, fascinating and complex.

And thereby they dispel our boredom and ingratitude.

Art brings the beauty and interest of the world back to life.

Your senses are reawakened, extolling you to learn to appreciate existence before it is too late.

Many men, if questioned, locate the purpose for their lives, not in a spiritual path, but in pursuing the wellbeing of their families.

They live for their family.

While it is socially appropriate and healthy to dedicate several decades of our lives to meeting our family’s needs and enjoying the rewards of this, it is, however, very easy to lose one’s sense of self at the same time.

There are two questions a man must ask himself:

Where am I going?

Who will go with me?

In that order of importance.

Get these questions in the wrong order and the result is pain.

Where am I going? is the critical question.

Where have I come from? might hold some of the answers.

We need to borrow the wisdom of our ancestors if we are to avoid being the generation that let the fires of survival go out.

Ancient man was an environmentalist who knew how to thrive in the natural world in a sustainable way.

Since the environment is now the biggest concern facing mankind today we clearly need all the help we can get.

Our ultimate job is to preserve life.

This can only be done well with a source of energy and direction.

Living a life that makes ecological sense is not just a technical challenge but involves an inner change of orientation.

The biologist who goes out to study the rainforest from an objective point of view comes back changed by the experience.

The nights under the massive forest canopy and the days peering into nature’s mysteries capture his soul.

He changes into a passionate and newly balanced man.

Perhaps the needs of our time will transform our existing religions to something more vibrant and purposeful by turning more to nature and wildness and less to dogma and intellectual head-scratching.

I am attracted to nature by the wildness in my own nature.

I do not claim to be religious at all, yet the wilderness and the ocean are my spiritual homes.

In a city it is difficult for me to believe in God.

In nature it is impossible for me not to believe in God.

The thirst for wildness is in us all every day.

It is natural to love nature.

The more artificial life gets, the more we need to redress the imbalance.

Nature is happiness.

The closer man gets to inner and outer wildness, the better his life becomes.

I believe graffiti is the urban attempt to express that inner wildness.

Above: Graffiti, Kom Ombo Temple, Egypt

Within each man is a Wild Man.

He is both a being that is in men and yet also has independent life.

He both represents – and teaches us – our own brilliance, bounty, wildness, greatness and spontaneity.

The Wild Man teaches us that we don’t have to pretend to be good, but that we have power and integrity latent inside us.

If we trust it.

Abandoning yourself to wildness turns out to be the most harmonious and generative thing you can do.

Fans of Taoism and Lao Tzu will feel right at home here.

Above: The Chinese character for “Tao” – signifying way, path, route, road or, sometimes more loosely, doctrine

Above: Laotzu (4th century BCE) riding an ox through a pass.

It is said that with the fall of the Chou dynasty, Laotzu decided to travel west through the Han Valley Pass.

The Pass Commissioner, Yin-hsi, noticed a trail of vapor emanating from the east, deducing that a sage must be approaching.

Not long after, Laotzu riding his ox indeed appeared and, at the request of Yin-hsi, wrote down his famous Tao-te ching, leaving afterwards.

This story thus became associated with auspiciousness.

When we are good, we are OK.

But when we are “wild“, we are geniuses.

Any man who makes or build things, who creates a garden, who plays a jazz instrument, who has ever been a lover, knows that you are better when you “let go” and follow your impulses.

Above:  Albert Gleizes, Composition for Jazz

Natural rhythms within us take over and bring out our real talents.

Our love of trees, the wilderness, waves and water, animals, growing things, children and women, all stem from our wild nature.

All masculine confidence, of the inner kind, arises in the domain of the Wild Man.

Jesus, Mohammed and Buddha were well at ease with the Wild Man – spending time in the wilderness, using nature as their place of prayer and reflection.

All were unpredictable and nonconformist with the established order of their times, yet at the same time disciplined and true to their inner voices.

Isn’t graffiti unpredictable and nonconformist and yet is truth in its undisciplined expression?

Above: Street art, Tel Aviv, Israel

Wild does not mean savage.

Those who spray paint upon property are not necessarily a danger to themselves or others beyond the radical transformation of an urban landscape.

The savage does great damage to soil, earth, humankind and himself.

The Wild Man examines himself and probes that which has wounded him much in the manner of a Zen priest, a shaman or a woodsman.

Graffiti is freedom of expression without remorse or regret, without permission or apology.

Above: Graffiti in Yogyakarta, Indonesia

Stone and steel, plaster and plastic are far from our original nature.

Free expression upon them is to expose the world to that original nature.

Perhaps we should not associate the divine with virgin mothers and blissful Beatitudes but rather we should see the spark of the spiritual in the dance of the mad, in the smile of the fanged, in the breathlessness of submersion, covered in the hair of the untamed.

The Wild Man lives within our hearts and minds and calls to us.

This Man is not a savage, not an uncontrollable killer nor evil oppressor.

He is primordial but not barbaric, aboriginal but not vicious.

He represents what is best in the spirit of manhood.

Indomitable, invincible and wild, ready to defend and compete and protect, his instincts and perceptions are critical to the survival of the human race.

The Wild Man needs room to breathe and live and express himself.

Lose the Wild Man, lose male identity.

We need to accept that there is darkness that needs expression, that must dissent.

We emasculate and feminise ourselves to gain female approval and then are stunned that the female rejects the changes she demanded and craves the Wild Man we sacrificed in her name.

We cannot all wander away into the wilderness but we can nevertheless discover the wild side of the urban environments wherein we find ourselves.

Sometimes we need to see the city the way a country stranger might, to feel the lure of the bright lights, the spell of the big time.

Every building, every storefront opens onto a different world, compressing all the variety of human life into a jumble of possibilities made all the richer by the conjunctions and contradictions.

Just as a bookshelf can jam together Japanese poetry, Mexican history and Russian novels, so do the buildings of any cosmopolitan community.

To the clear-eyed and the open-minded even the most ordinary things can strike you with wonder.

The people on the street offer a thousand glances of lives similarly and utterly unlike your own.

Cities have always offered anonymity, variety and conjunction, much like the graffiti that graces its edifices.

A city always contains more than anyone can ever know.

A great city always makes the unknown and the possible spur the imagination.

Graffiti is the expression of that imagination.

Above: Street art in Thrissur, Kerala, India

A city is a place of unmediated encounters.

The suburbs, by comparison, are scrupulously controlled and segregated, designed for the noninteraction of motorists shuttling between private places rather than the interactions of pedestrians in public ones.

Urban density, beautiful buildings with cafés and bars everywhere, suggest different priorities for time and space, a competition fo attention by artists, poets, social and political radicals making lives about other things than commuting and spending.

The marvel of cities is in its coincidences, the struggles of many kinds of people, poetry given away to strangers under the open neon sky.

The history of the city is a history of freedom and of the definition of pleasure.

Urban walking is a stroll through the shadows, a solicitation of the senses, cruising through the crowd, promenades among the people, seduction by the shops, a rush of rage and righteousness in a riot, the passion of the protest, the sensuality of skulking, the lazy luxury of loitering, the palatable presence of a high and moral tone strangely absent.

In the city, biology is reduced to the human and a few stray species, but the range of activities, of possibilities, is limitless.

The rural walker looks at the general landscape.

The urban walker sees the specifics, looks for particulars, for opportunities.

The city resembles primordial life more than the country, in a less charming way.

The peril of human predators keeps city dwellers in a state of heightened alertness, of strengthened awareness.

Streets are the place left over between buildings.

A house alone is an island surrounded by a sea of open space, but as more and more buildings arise the sea becomes rivers, canals and streams of concrete running between the masses of skyscrapers.

Public space is merely the void between workplaces, shops and dwellings.

Walking the streets is the beginning of citizenship.

Graffiti is an expression of that citizenship.

Walking a city the citizen knows his place and truly inhabits his corner of humanity.

Walking the streets links up reading the map with living one’s life, the personal microcosm with the public macrocosm, a sense of the maze that surrounds us.

Graffiti is a signpost, a mile marker, of place and thought, of harsh reality and artistic expression.

Above: Street art, Århus, Denmark

Too few walk the streets for pleasure.

Pleasure is found in serendipity and the city is a plethora of possibilities and opportunities for serendipity.

Graffiti suggests that the profane can be profound, that the private thought can be publicly expressed, that the anonymous can have a voice synonymous with the common community.

It never occurs to us that streets can be oases rather than deserts.

Above: Street art, Buenos Aires, Argentina

One of the reasons I remain a fan of Charles Dickens is that he was a fan of urban walking and his writing thoroughly explored a city as much as his feet wandered its streets.

Dickens is the great poet of London life and his novels are as much a drama of place as they are of people.

People and places become one another.

Characters are identified as an atmosphere or a principle.

A place takes on a full-fledged personality.

His novels are full of detectives and police inspectors, of criminals who stalk, lovers who seek, and damned souls who flee.

The city is a tangle through which all the characters wander in a colossal game of hide-and-seek.

Only a vast city can allow intricate plots so full of crossed paths and overlapping lives.

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

Under the pattering rain the homeless walk and walk and walk, seeing nothing but the interminable tangle of streets.

Here and there, the police patrol.

Fear peers out of darkened doorways.

The wild moon and clouds are as restless as an uneasy conscience in a tumbled bed.

The shadow of the immense oppresses.

And yet the lonely nocturnal streets can also be comforting, as are the graveyards and shy neighbourhoods abandoned by society who have left the city for creature comforts elsewhere.

We bask in solitude.

Darkness punctuated by night skies punctured by distant stars.

In the country, solitude is geographical.

In the city, it is psychological, a world made up of strangers, strangers surrounded by strangers.

Streets silently bearing one’s secrets and imaginings of the secrets of others.

The starkest of luxuries, uncharted identity with its illimitable possibilities is one of the distinctive qualities of urban living.

An emancipation from family and communal expectation.

An experiment with subculture and identity.

It is an observer’s state.

Cool, withdrawn, senses sharpened, melancholic, alienation and introspection.

The streets are an outlaw romanticism, toughened sensibilities, wrapped in an isolation from which fierce fire burns brightly where whispers break the musing silence.

Can the neon of Miami ever emulate the alley lanterns of London?

Perhaps not.

And yet….

Here too the streets sing of celebration by day, seduction by night.

Above: Miami, Florida

G.K. Chesterton wrote:

Few of us understand the street.

Even when we step into it, we step into it doubtfully, as into a house or room of strangers.

Few of us see through the shining riddle of the street, the strange folk that belong to the street only – the whore and the wastrel, the merchant and the nomad, all who have generation after generation kept their ancient secrets in the full blaze of the sun.

Of the street at night many of us know less.

The street at night is a great house locked up.

Above: Gilbert Keith Chesterton (1874 – 1936)

Located near a mosaic and stone walkway, the Ephesus graffiti shows a handprint that vaguely resembles a heart, along with a footprint, a number, and a carved image of a woman’s head.

Above: Library of Celsus, Ephesus, Turkey

The ancient Romans carved graffiti on walls and monuments, examples of which also survive in Egypt.

Graffiti in the classical world had different connotations than they carry in today’s society concerning content.

Ancient graffiti displayed phrases of love declarations, political rhetoric, and simple words of thought, compared to today’s popular messages of social and political ideals.

The eruption of Vesuvius preserved graffiti in Pompeii, which includes Latin curses, magic spells, declarations of love, insults, alphabets, political slogans, and famous literary quotes, providing insight into ancient Roman street life.

One inscription gives the address of a woman named Novellia Primigenia of Nuceria, a prostitute, apparently of great beauty, whose services were much in demand.

Another shows a phallus accompanied by the text, mansueta tene (“handle with care“).

The heart of a man should have been displayed in its stead.

Disappointed love also found its way onto walls in antiquity:

Whoever loves, go to hell.

I want to break Venus’s ribs with a club and deform her hips.

If she can break my tender heart, why can’t I hit her over the head?

Above: Pompeii graffiti

Excellent question.

We are taught how to respect women and yet women are so often badly behaved.

Are they worthy of respect if they do not act in a manner that merits respect?

Ancient tourists visiting the 5th-century citadel at Sigiriya in Sri Lanka scribbled over 1,800 individual graffiti there between the 6th and 18th centuries.

Etched on the surface of the Mirror Wall, they contain pieces of prose, poetry, and commentary.

The majority of these visitors appear to have been from the elite of society: royalty, officials, professions, and clergy.

There were also soldiers, archers, and even some metalworkers.

The topics range from love to satire, curses, wit, and lament.

Many demonstrate a very high level of literacy and a deep appreciation of art and poetry.

Most of the graffiti refer to the frescoes of semi-nude females found there.

One reads:

Wet with cool dew drops
fragrant with perfume from the flowers
came the gentle breeze
jasmine and water lily
dance in the spring sunshine
side-long glances
of the golden-hued ladies
stab into my thoughts
heaven itself cannot take my mind
as it has been captivated by one lass
among the five hundred I have seen here.

Above: Sigiriya Rock, Sri Lanka

Above: Artwork, Sigiriya Rock, Sri Lanka

Above: Graffiti on the Mirror Wall, Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Among the ancient political graffiti examples were Arab satirist poems.

Yazid al-Himyari, an Umayyad Arab and Persian poet, was mostly known for writing political poetry on the walls between Sajistan and Basra, manifesting a strong hatred towards the Umayyad regime and its rulers.

People used to read and circulate them very widely.

Perhaps this is what those nations ruled by the rigorous need to do:

Dissent through poetry, writing on the wall, art upon the architecture, the music of musing.

Above: Screenshot, Video game Alpha Centauri

Historic forms of graffiti have helped gain understanding into the lifestyles and languages of past cultures.

Errors in spelling and grammar in these graffiti offer insight into the degree of literacy in Roman times and provide clues on the pronunciation of spoken Latin – evidence of the ability to read and write at levels of society where literacy might not be expected.

At Pompeii we find graffiti left by both foreman and workers.

Above: View of Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius, Italy

The brothel contains more than 120 pieces of graffiti, some of which were the work of the prostitutes and some the work of their clients.

The gladiatorial academy was scrawled with graffiti left by the gladiator Celadus Crescens (“Celadus the Thracian makes the girls sigh.“)

Another piece from Pompeii, written on a tavern wall about the owner of the establishment and his questionable wine:

Landlord, may your lies malign
Bring destruction on your head!
You yourself drink unmixed wine,
Water do you sell to your guests instead.

Above: Pompeii, Italy

Above: Inscription in Pompeii lamenting a frustrated love:

Whoever loves, let him flourish, let him perish who knows not love, let him perish twice over whoever forbids love.”

It was not only the Greeks and Romans who produced graffiti:

The Maya site of Tikal in Guatemala contains examples of ancient Maya graffiti. 

Above: Tikal, Guatemala

Viking graffiti survives in Rome and at Newgrange Mound in Ireland.

Above: Newgrange Mound, Ireland

A Varangian scratched his name (Halvdan) in runes on a banister in the Hagia Sophia at Constantinople (Istanbul).

Above: Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

These early forms of graffiti have contributed to the understanding of lifestyles and languages of past cultures.

Graffiti, known as Tacherons, were frequently scratched on Romanesque Scandinavian church walls.

When Renaissance artists (such as Pinturicchio, Raphael, Michelangelo, Ghirlandaio, or Filippino Lippi) descended into the ruins of Nero’s Domus Aurea, they carved or painted their names and returned to initiate the grottesche style of decoration.

Above: Bernardino di Betto (aka Pinturicchio) (1454 – 1513)

Above: Raffaello Sanzio (aka Raphael) (1483 – 1520)

Above: Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni (aka Michelangelo) (1475 – 1564)

Above: Domenico di Tommaso Curradi di Doffo Bigordi (aka Ghirlandaio) (1448 – 1494)

Above: Filippino Lippi (1457 – 1504)

There are also examples of graffiti occurring in American history, such as Independence Rock, a national landmark along the Oregon Trail.

Later, French soldiers carved their names on monuments during the Napoleonic campaign of Egypt in the 1790s. 

Above: Battle of the Pyramids, 21 July 1798

Above: Napoleon Bonaparte (1769 – 1821)

Lord Byron’s survives on one of the columns of the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion in Attica, Greece.

Above: George Gordon Byron (1788 – 1824)

Above: Cape Sounion, Greece

Contemporary graffiti style has been heavily influenced by hip hop culture and the myriad international styles derived from Philadelphia and New York City subway graffiti.

However, there are many other traditions of notable graffiti in the 20th century.

Graffiti have long appeared on building walls, in latrines, railroad boxcars, subways and bridges.

Above: Street art, Memphis, Tennessee, USA

Above: Graffiti, Amsterdam, Netherlands

The oldest known example of modern graffiti are the “monikers” found on boxcars created by hobos and rail workers since the late 1800s.

The Bozo Texino monikers were documented by filmmaker Bill Daniel in his 2005 film, Who is Bozo Texino?.

Some graffiti have their own poignancy.

In World War II, an inscription on a wall at the fortress of Verdun was seen as an illustration of the US response twice in a generation to the wrongs of the Old World:

Austin White – Chicago, Ill – 1918
Austin White – Chicago, Ill – 1945
This is the last time I want to write my name here.

Above: Verdun, France

During World War II and for decades after, the phrase “Kilroy was here” with an accompanying illustration was widespread throughout the world, due to its use by American troops and ultimately filtering into American popular culture.

Shortly after the death of Charlie Parker (1920 – 1955) (nicknamed “Yardbird” or “Bird“), graffiti began appearing around New York with the words “Bird Lives“.

The student protests and general strike of May 1968 saw Paris bedecked in revolutionary, anarchistic, and situationist slogans such as L’ennui est contre-révolutionnaire (“Boredom is counterrevolutionary“) expressed in painted graffiti, poster art, and stencil art.

At the time in the US, other political phrases (such as “Free Huey” about Black Panther Huey Newton) became briefly popular as graffiti in limited areas, only to be forgotten.

Above: Huey Newton (1942 – 1989)

A popular graffito of the early 1970s was “Dick Nixon Before He Dicks You“, reflecting the hostility of the youth culture to that US president.

Above: Richard Nixon (1913 – 1994) (US President: 1969 – 1974)

Rock and roll graffiti is a significant subgenre.

A famous graffito of the 20th century was the inscription in London reading “Clapton is God” in reference to the guitarist Eric Clapton.

Creating the cult of the guitar hero, the phrase was spray-painted by an admirer on a wall in an Islington, north London in the autumn of 1967.

The graffito was captured in a photograph, in which a dog is urinating on the wall.

Above: Eric Clapton

Graffiti also became associated with the anti-establishment punk rock movement beginning in the 1970s.

Bands (such as Black Flag and Crass) and their followers widely stenciled their names and logos.

Many punk night clubs, squats and hangouts are famous for their graffiti.

The Anti-Social Behaviour Act 2003 became Britain’s latest anti-graffiti legislation.

In August 2004, the Keep Britain Tidy campaign issued a press release calling for zero tolerance of graffiti and supporting proposals such as issuing “on the spot” fines to graffiti offenders and banning the sale of aerosol paint to anyone under the age of 16.

The press release also condemned the use of graffiti images in advertising and in music videos, arguing that real-world experience of graffiti stood far removed from its often-portrayed “cool” or “edgy‘” image.

To back the campaign, 123 Members of Parliament (MPs) (including then Prime Minister Tony Blair), signed a charter which stated:

Graffiti is not art, it’s crime.

On behalf of my constituents, I will do all I can to rid our community of this problem.

Above: Tony Blair (British Prime Minister: 1997 – 2007)

In the UK, city councils have the power to take action against the owner of any property that has been defaced under the Anti-Social Behaviour Act 2003 (as amended by the Clean Neighbourhoods and Environment Act 2005) or, in certain cases, the Highways Act.

This is often used against owners of property that are complacent in allowing protective boards to be defaced so long as the property is not damaged.

In July 2008, a conspiracy charge was used to convict graffitists for the first time.

After a three-month police surveillance operation, nine members of the DPM crew were convicted of conspiracy to commit criminal damage costing at least £1 million.

Five of them received prison sentences, ranging from eighteen months to two years.

The unprecedented scale of the investigation and the severity of the sentences rekindled public debate over whether graffiti should be considered art or crime.

Some councils, like those of Stroud and Lörrach (Germany), provide approved areas in the town where graffitists can showcase their talents, including underpasses, car parks, and walls that might otherwise prove a target for the “spray and run“.

Above: Stroud, Gloucestershire, England

Above: Street art, Stroud

Above: Lörrach, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Street art, Lörrach

In Europe, community cleaning squads have responded to graffiti, in some cases with reckless abandon, as when in 1992 in France a local Scout group, attempting to remove modern graffiti, damaged two prehistoric paintings of bison in the Cave of Mayriere Supérieure, near the French village of Bruniquel in Tarn-et-Garonne, earning them the 1992 Ig Nobel Prize in archaeology.

(The Ig Nobel Prize is a satiric prize awarded annually since 1991 to celebrate ten unusual or trivial achievements in scientific research.

Its aim is to “honour achievements that first make people laugh, and then make them think.”

The name of the award is a pun on the Nobel Prize, which it parodies, and on the word ignoble (“not noble“).

Organized by the scientific humor magazine, Annals of Improbable Research (AIR), the Ig Nobel Prizes are presented by Nobel laureates in a ceremony at the Sanders Theater, Harvard University, followed by the winners’ public lectures at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT).)

Above: Cave of Mayrières supérieure, Bruniquel, Tam-et-Garonne department, France

Above: rue Principale, Bruniquel, Tam-et-Garonne department, France

In September 2006, the European Parliament directed the European Commission to create urban environment policies to prevent and eliminate dirt, litter, graffiti, animal excrement, and excessive noise from domestic and vehicular music systems in European cities, along with other concerns over urban life.

In Budapest, Hungary, both a city-backed movement called I Love Budapest and a special police division tackle the problem, including the provision of approved areas.

Above: Budapest, Hungary

Style Wars depicted not only famous graffitists (such as Skeme, Dondi, MinOne, and ZEPHYR), but also reinforced graffiti’s role within New York’s emerging hip-hop culture by incorporating famous early break-dancing groups (such as Rock Steady Crew) into the film and featuring rap in the soundtrack.

Above: Graffiti artist Skeme

Above: Graffiti artist Dondi

Above: Graffiti artist Min One

Above: Graffiti artist Zephyr

Above: Rock Steady Crew

Although many officers of the New York City Police Department found this film to be controversial, Style Wars is still recognized as the most prolific film representation of what was going on within the young hip hop culture of the early 1980s.

Fab 5 Freddy and Futura 2000 took hip hop graffiti to Paris and London as part of the New York City Rap Tour in 1983.

Above: Graffiti artist Fab 5 Freddy

Above: Graffiti artist Futura 2000

This period also saw the emergence of the new stencil graffiti genre.

Some of the first examples were created in 1981 by graffitists Blek le Rat in Paris, in 1982 by Jef Aerosol in Tours (France). 

Above: Graffiti artist Blek le Rat

Above: Graffiti artist Jef Aerosol

By 1985, stencils had appeared in other cities including New York City, Sydney, and Melbourne, where they were documented by American photographer Charles Gatewood and Australian photographer Rennie Ellis.

Above: Street art, New York City, New York, USA

Above: Graffiti, Sydney, Australia

In an effort to reduce vandalism, many cities in Australia have designated walls or areas exclusively for use by graffitists.

One early example is the “Graffiti Tunnel” located at the Camperdown Campus of the University of Sydney, which is available for use by any student at the university to tag, advertise, poster, and create “art“.

Advocates of this idea suggest that this discourages petty vandalism yet encourages artists to take their time and produce great art, without worry of being caught or arrested for vandalism or trespassing.

Above: Graffiti Tunnel, Sydney, Australia

Others disagree with this approach, arguing that the presence of legal graffiti walls does not demonstrably reduce illegal graffiti elsewhere.

Some local government areas throughout Australia have introduced “anti-graffiti squads“, who clean graffiti in the area, and such crews as BCW (Buffers Can’t Win) have taken steps to keep one step ahead of local graffiti cleaners.

Many state governments have banned the sale or possession of spray paint to those under the age of 18 (age of majority).

However, a number of local governments in Victoria have taken steps to recognize the cultural heritage value of some examples of graffiti, such as prominent political graffiti.

Tough new graffiti laws have been introduced in Australia with fines of up to A$26,000 and two years in prison.

Above: Street art, Sydney, Australia

Melbourne is a prominent graffiti city of Australia with many of its lanes being tourist attractions, such as Hosier Lane in particular, a popular destination for photographers, wedding photography, and backdrops for corporate print advertising.

The Lonely Planet travel guide cites this Melbourne street as a major attraction.

Above: Hosier Lane, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

All forms of graffiti, including sticker art, poster, stencil art, and wheat pasting, can be found in many places throughout the city.

Prominent street art precincts include Fitzroy, Collingwood, Northcote, Brunswick, St. Kilda and the CBD, where stencil and sticker art is prominent.

Above: Street art, Fitzroy, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Collingwood, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Northcote, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Sunshine Lane, Brunswick, Melbourne

Above: Street art, St. Kilda, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Central Business District (CBD), Melbourne

As one moves farther away from the city, mostly along suburban train lines, graffiti tags become more prominent.

Many international artists such as Banksy have left their work in Melbourne and in early 2008 a perspex screen was installed to prevent a Banksy stencil art piece from being destroyed, it has survived since 2003 through the respect of local street artists avoiding posting over it, although it has recently had paint tipped over it.

Above: Banksy street art, Melbourne

In February 2008, Helen Clark, the New Zealand Prime Minister at that time, announced a government crackdown on tagging and other forms of graffiti vandalism, describing it as a destructive crime representing an invasion of public and private property.

New legislation subsequently adopted included a ban on the sale of paint spray cans to persons under 18 and increases in maximum fines for the offence from NZ$200 to NZ$2,000 or extended community service.

Above: Helen Clark (New Zealand Prime Minister: 1999 – 2008)

The issue of tagging become a widely debated one following an incident in Auckland during January 2008 in which a middle-aged property owner stabbed one of two teenage taggers to death and was subsequently convicted of manslaughter.

Tagging is the practice of someone spray-painting “their name, initial or logo onto a public surface“.

Above: Graffiti artist Pihema Cameron (1993 – 2008)

With the popularity and legitimization of graffiti has come a level of commercialization.

In 2001, computer giant IBM launched an advertising campaign in Chicago and San Francisco which involved people spray painting on sidewalks a peace symbol, a heart and a penguin, to represent “Peace, Love, and Linux“.

IBM paid Chicago and San Francisco collectively US$120,000 for punitive damages and clean-up costs.

Above: Logo of the International Business Machines Corporation

In 2005, a similar ad campaign was launched by Sony and executed by its advertising agency in New York, Chicago, Atlanta, Philadelphia, Los Angeles, and Miami, to market its handheld PSP gaming system.

In this campaign, taking notice of the legal problems of the IBM campaign, Sony paid building owners for the rights to paint on their buildings “a collection of dizzy-eyed urban kids playing with the PSP as if it were a skateboard, a paddle, or a rocking horse“.

Above: Sony PSP graffiti

Marc Ecko, an urban clothing designer, has been an advocate of graffiti as an art form during this period, stating that:

Graffiti is without question the most powerful art movement in recent history and has been a driving inspiration throughout my career.

Above: Marc Ecko

Graffiti have become a common stepping stone for many members of both the art and design communities in North America and abroad.

Within the US graffitists (such as Mike Giant, Pursue, Rime, Noah, and countless others) have made careers in skateboard, apparel, and shoe design for companies (such as DC Shoes, Adidas, Rebel8, Osiris, or Circa). 

Above: Graffiti artist Mike Giant

Above: Graffiti artist Pursue

Above: Graffiti artist Rime

Above: Logo of Rebel 8

Meanwhile, there are many others (such as DZINE, Daze, Blade, and El Mac) who have made the switch to being gallery artists, often not even using their initial medium, spray paint.

Above: Graffiti artist Dzine

Above: Graffiti artist Daze

Above: Graffiti artist Blade

Above: Graffiti artist El Mac

Brazil “boasts a unique and particularly rich, graffiti scene earning it an international reputation as the place to go for artistic inspiration.

Graffiti “flourishes in every conceivable space in Brazil’s cities“.

Artistic parallels “are often drawn between the energy of São Paulo today and 1970s New York“.

The “sprawling metropolis” of São Paulo has “become the new shrine to graffiti” .

Poverty and unemployment and the epic struggles and conditions of the country’s marginalised peoples” and “Brazil’s chronic poverty” are the main engines that “have fuelled a vibrant graffiti culture“.

In world terms, Brazil has “one of the most uneven distributions of income.

Laws and taxes change frequently.

Such factors contribute to a very fluid society, riven with those economic divisions and social tensions that underpin and feed the “folkloric vandalism and an urban sport for the disenfranchised“, that is South American graffiti art.

Above: Street art, Sao Paulo, Brazil

Prominent Brazilian graffitists include Os Gêmeos, Boleta, Nunca, Nina, Speto, Tikka, and Titi Freak. 

Their artistic success and involvement in commercial design ventures has highlighted divisions within the Brazilian graffiti community between adherents of the cruder transgressive form of pichação (Brazilian graffiti) and the more conventionally artistic values of the practitioners of grafite (graffiti).

Above: Identical twin graffiti artists Os Gemeos

Above: Graffiti artist Boleta

Above: Nunca mural, Sorocaba, Brazil

Above: Graffiti artist Nina

Above: Graffiti artist Speto

Above: Graffiti artist Tikka

Above: Titi Freak street art

Graffiti in the Middle East has emerged slowly, with taggers operating in Egypt, Lebanon, the Gulf countries like Bahrein or the United Arab Emirates (UAE), Israel and in Iran.

The major Iranian newspaper Hamshahri has published two articles on illegal writers in the city with photographic coverage of Iranian artist A1one’s works on Tehran walls.

Above: Logo of Iranian newspaper Hamshahri

Above: Graffiti artist A1one

Tokyo-based design magazine, PingMag, has interviewed A1one and featured photographs of his work. 

The Israeli West Bank barrier has become a site for graffiti, reminiscent in this sense of the Berlin Wall.

Above: West Bank Barrier graffiti art

Above: Berlin Wall (1961 – 1989) graffiti

Many graffitists in Israel come from other places around the globe, such as JUIF from Los Angeles and DEVIONE from London.

Above: Juif street art

Above: Graffiti artist Devione

The religious reference “נ נח נחמ נחמן מאומן” (“Na Nach Nachma Nachman Meuman“) is commonly seen in graffiti around Israel.

Graffiti has played an important role within the street art scene in the Middle East and North Africa (MENA), especially following the events of the Arab Spring of 2011 or the Sudanese Revolution (2018 – 2019).

Above: The MENA (Middle East and North Africa) or WANA (West Asia and North Africa) region according to 13 definitions:

  • 7 from United Nations agencies/programmes
  • 3 from agricultural organizations
  • 2 from demographics research institutes
  • 1 from historians.
  • Dark blue countries/territories are included in more than 66% of definitions
  • Sky blue in 33–66% of definitions
  • Light blue in fewer than 33% of definitions of the MENA/WANA region.  

Above: Images of the Arab Spring (2010 – 2012)

Clockwise from top left: 2011 Egyptian revolution (25 January – 11 February), Tunisian revolution (2010 – 2011), Yemeni uprising (2011 – 2012), 2011 Syrian uprising (15 March – 28 July)

Above: Sudanese protestors gather in front of government buildings in Khartoum to celebrate the final signing of the Draft Constitutional Declaration between military and civil representatives, 19 August 2019

Graffiti is a tool of expression in the context of conflict in the region, allowing people to raise their voices politically and socially.

Famous street artist Banksy has had an important effect in the street art scene in the MENA area, especially in Palestine where some of his works are located on the West Bank barrier and in Bethlehem.

Above: Banksy graffiti at the Israeli West Bank barrier in Bethlehem

There are also a large number of graffiti influences in Southeast Asian countries that mostly come from modern Western culture, such as Malaysia, where graffiti have long been a common sight in Malaysia’s capital city, Kuala Lumpur (KL).

Since 2010, the country has begun hosting a street festival to encourage all generations and people from all walks of life to enjoy and encourage Malaysian street culture.

Above: Graffiti art in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

In China, Mao Zedong in the 1920s used revolutionary slogans and paintings in public places to galvanise the country’s Communist Revolution.

Above: Mao Zedong (1893 – 1976)

Based on different national conditions, many people believe that China’s attitude towards Graffiti is fierce, but in fact, according to Lance Crayon in his film Spray Paint Beijing: Graffiti in the Capital of China,

Graffiti is generally accepted in Beijing, with artists not seeing much police interference.

Political and religiously sensitive graffiti, however, is not allowed.

In Hong Kong, Tsang Tsou Choi was known as the King of Kowloon for his calligraphy graffiti over many years, in which he claimed ownership of the area.

Now some of his work is preserved officially.

Above: Graffiti artist Tsang Tsou-choi (1921 – 2007)

In Taiwan, the government has made some concessions to graffitists.

Since 2005 they have been allowed to freely display their work along some sections of riverside retaining walls in designated “Graffiti Zones“. 

From 2007, Taipei’s department of cultural affairs also began permitting graffiti on fences around major public construction sites.

Department head Yong-ping Lee stated:

We will promote graffiti starting with the public sector, and then later in the private sector too.

It’s our goal to beautify the city with graffiti“.

The government later helped organize a graffiti contest in Ximending, a popular shopping district. graffitists caught working outside of these designated areas still face fines up to NT$6,000 under a Department of Environmental Protection regulation.

However, Taiwanese authorities can be relatively lenient, one veteran police officer stating anonymously,

Unless someone complains about vandalism, we won’t get involved.

We don’t go after it proactively.”

Above: Street art, Taipei, Taiwan

In 1993, after several expensive cars in Singapore were spray-painted, the police arrested a student from the Singapore American School, Michael P. Fay, questioned him, and subsequently charged him with vandalism.

Fay pleaded guilty to vandalizing a car in addition to stealing road signs.

Under the 1966 Vandalism Act of Singapore, originally passed to curb the spread of Communist graffiti in Singapore, the court sentenced him to four months in jail, a fine of S$3,500 (US$2,233), and a caning. 

Above: Michael P. Kay

The New York Times ran several editorials and op-eds that condemned the punishment and called on the American public to flood the Singaporean embassy with protests.

Although the Singapore government received many calls for clemency, Fay’s caning took place in Singapore on 5 May 1994.

Fay had originally received a sentence of six strokes of the cane, but the presiding President of Singapore, Ong Teng Cheong, agreed to reduce his caning sentence to four lashes.

Above: Ong Teng Cheong (Singapore President: 1936 – 2002)

In South Korea, Park Jung-soo was fined two million South Korean won by the Seoul Central District Court for spray-painting a rat on posters of the G-20 Summit a few days before the event in November 2011.

Park alleged that the initial in “G-20” sounds like the Korean word for “rat“, but Korean government prosecutors alleged that Park was making a derogatory statement about the president of South Korea, Lee Myung-bak, the host of the Summit.

Above: Member countries of the G20 (pink) / Countries represented through the membership of the European Union (purple) / Countries permanently invited (yellow)

Above: Lee Myung-bak (South Korean President: 2008 – 2014)

This case led to public outcry and debate on the lack of government tolerance and in support of freedom of expression.

The court ruled that the painting, “an ominous creature like a rat” amounts to “an organized criminal activity” and upheld the fine while denying the prosecution’s request for imprisonment for Park.

Above: Graffiti artist Park Jung-Soo

The modern-day graffitists can be found with an arsenal of various materials that allow for a successful production of a piece.

This includes such techniques as scribing.

However, spray paint in aerosol cans is the number one medium for graffiti.

From this commodity comes different styles, technique, and abilities to form master works of graffiti.

Spray paint can be found at hardware and art stores and comes in virtually every colour.

Stencil graffiti is created by cutting out shapes and designs in a stiff material (such as cardboard or subject folders) to form an overall design or image.

The stencil is then placed on the “canvas” gently and with quick, easy strokes of the aerosol can, the image begins to appear on the intended surface.

Above: Graffiti Tunnel, San Francisco, California, USA

Modern graffiti art often incorporates additional arts and technologies.

For example, Graffiti Research Lab has encouraged the use of projected images and magnetic light-emitting diodes (throwies) as new media for graffitists. 

Yarnbombing is another recent form of graffiti.

Yarnbombers occasionally target previous graffiti for modification, which had been avoided among the majority of graffitists.

Above: Graffiti, Zumaia, Spain

Tagging is the practice of someone spray-painting “their name, initial or logo onto a public surface“.

A number of recent examples of graffiti make use of hashtags.

Above: Graffiti, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

When graffiti artist Alan Ket was growing up in Brooklyn, he got good at improvisation.

Above: Alan Ket, Museum of Graffiti, Miami, Florida

He remembers:

By the time I grew up, all the spray cans were locked up in cages.

I used to use Ban Roll-On and take off the top, then I would steal erasers from the classroom and pull off the felt, then use the felt tip on the Roll-On.

I would go to the supermarket and get purple supermarket ink and fill it.

That eye for detail paid off.

Along with co-founder Allison Freidin, Ket oversees the Museum of Graffiti in its home next to Wynwood Walls.

Above: Alison Freidin

It is a fitting location for the Museum, which opened in late 2019.

It offers a fascinating look into the historical context that made the mural park one of Miami’s most popular attractions.

Its location is 5,000 square feet.

Its mission is to teach people about an art movement that is now fixed in our culture and commerce.

Friedin says:

So many people come here and are really focused on the narrative that the press and the government have been feeding them for so many years, that graffiti is gang-related, that graffiti artists are dangerous criminals.

A lot of folks come in with only having heard one side of the story.

The Museum of Graffiti provides that other very important half that is from marginalized artists who don’t have a platform other than the streets.

A trip through the Museum encompasses the early forms of tagging and introduces such innovators as Philadelphia’s Cornbread, who started creating street art in 1965 and famously tagged the Jackson 5’s plane and an elephant at the zoo.

Above: Graffiti artist Cornbread

Above: The Jackson 5 from left to right: Tito, Marlon, Michael (1958 – 2009), Jackie, and Jermaine Jackson

There is also a nod to the flamboyant Rammellzee, a visual artist, performance artist and hip-hop musician who recorded “Beat Box“, one of the most valued and collectible hip-hop records of all time.

Above: Artist Rammellzee

(Jean-Michel Baptiste designed the cover.)

The self-proclaimed birthplace of graffiti, New York City, figures prominently in the telling of this history.

There is a tribute to the New York subway trains once covered in graffiti (much to the dismay of vindictive transit authorities) and nods to entrepreneurial artists who found ways to monetize their work through album covers, merchandise like T-shirts and collectibles, skateboards and tattoos.

(For example, there is a replica of the Shirt King store from the Colosseum Mall in Queens and a mini tattoo parlor.)

Past and future collide in these rooms.

Pass a wall of the original spray paints used in early street art and find yourself in an Oculus headset for a virtual reality opportunity to let your inner artist flow.

One of the hardest things about putting the Museum together has been finding historical artifacts, Freidin says.

Too many materials were left moldering in basements or storage units.

Like they did when their children left comic books behind, overzealous parents threw away much of what might have been valuable.

Freidin says:

Because it was not treated as an art form until recently, the archives are very unstable.

We have lost important pieces of ephemera or antiques that tell the history of the culture, because there has been no preservation of that culture.

Freidin did manage to track down a couple of the New York subway turnstiles, still in their original red and yellow, for guests to walk through at the end of the tour.

The Museum won’t neglect its Wynwood roots, either.

Above: Museum of Graffiti, Miami, Florida

An exhibit of Puerto Rican artists opened in March 2022, paying homage to the neighbourhood’s original residents.

Above: Street art, San Jian, Puerto Rico

There are free drawing classes for kids on Sundays and graffiti classes for anyone who wants to learn how to use spray cans to draw characters.

But the story the Museum of Graffiti is telling is far from over.

Ket says:

There is no complete story.

It is a global story.

Every city, every region has its own story.

We are gathering all these stories to join them and give you an overview of what has happened.

It is still being discovered.”

Above: Street art, Budapest, Hungary

In the early 1980s, the first art galleries to show graffitists to the public were Fashion Moda in the Bronx, the Now Gallery and the Fun Gallery, both in the East Village, Manhattan.

Above: Fashion Moda, The Bronx, New York City, New York, USA

Above: The Now Gallery, East Village, Manhattan, New York City

Above: The Fun Gallery, East Village, Manhattan

A 2006 exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum displayed graffiti as an art form that began in New York’s outer boroughs and reached great heights in the early 1980s with the work of Crash, Lee, Daze, Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

Above: Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn, New York City

Above: Graffiti artist Crash

Above: Graffiti artist Lee

Above: Street art, Daze, Brooklyn

Above: Keith Haring (1958 – 1990)

Above: Keith Haring Mural, Collingwood, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Above: Jean-Michel Basquiat (1960 – 1988)

Above: Graffito of Jean-Michel Basquiat

The Brooklyn Museum displayed 22 works by New York graffitists, including Crash, Daze, and Lady Pink.

Above: Street art, Crash, Wynwood Walls, Miami, Florida

Above: Street art, Daze, Brooklyn

Above: Graffiti artist Lady Pink

In an article about the exhibition in the magazine Time Out, curator Charlotta Kotik said that she hoped the exhibition would cause viewers to rethink their assumptions about graffiti.

From the 1970s onwards, Burhan Dogancay photographed urban walls all over the world.

These he then archived for use as sources of inspiration for his painterly works.

The project today known as “Walls of the World” grew beyond even his own expectations and comprises about 30,000 individual images.

It spans a period of 40 years across five continents and 114 countries.

In 1982, photographs from this project comprised a one-man exhibition titled “Les murs murmurent, ils crient, ils chantent …” (The walls whisper, shout and sing …) at the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris.

Above: Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris, France

In Australia, art historians have judged some local graffiti of sufficient creative merit to rank them firmly within the arts. 

Oxford University Press’ art history text Australian Painting 1788–2000 concludes with a long discussion of graffiti’s key place within contemporary visual culture, including the work of several Australian practitioners.

Between March and April 2009, 150 artists exhibited 300 pieces of graffiti at the Grand Palais in Paris.

Above: Grand Palais, Paris, France

Theories on the use of graffiti by avant-garde artists have a history dating back at least to the Asger Jorn, who in 1962 painting declared in a graffiti-like gesture:

The avant-garde won’t give up.”

Above: Danish artist Asger Jorn (1914 – 1973)

Many contemporary analysts and even art critics have begun to see artistic value in some graffiti and to recognize it as a form of public art.

According to many art researchers, particularly in the Netherlands and in Los Angeles, that type of public art is, in fact an effective tool of social emancipation or, in the achievement of a political goal.

In times of conflict, such murals have offered a means of communication and self-expression for members of these socially, ethnically, or racially divided communities, and have proven themselves as effective tools in establishing dialog and thus, of addressing cleavages in the long run.

Above: Street art, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Above: Street art, Los Angeles, California, USA

The Berlin Wall was also extensively covered by graffiti reflecting social pressures relating to the oppressive Soviet rule over the German Democratic Republic (GDR) (East Germany).

Above: My God, Help me to survive this deadly love graffiti painting on the Berlin Wall (1961 – 1989) depicting Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev (1906 – 1982) kissing East German leader Erich Honecker (1912 – 1994)

Above: Berlin Wall – “Anyone who wants to keep the world as it is does not want it to remain.”

Many graffitists choose to protect their identities and remain anonymous or to hinder prosecution.

With the commercialization of graffiti (and hip hop in general), in most cases, even with legally painted “graffiti” art, graffitists tend to choose anonymity.

This may be attributed to various reasons or a combination of reasons.

Graffiti still remains the one of four hip hop elements that is not considered “performance art” despite the image of the “singing and dancing star” that sells hip hop culture to the mainstream.

Being a graphic form of art, it might also be said that many graffitists still fall in the category of the introverted archetypal artist.

Above: Banksy mural, Bethlehem, Israel

Banksy is one of the world’s most notorious and popular street artists who continues to remain faceless in today’s society.

Above: Slave labour, street art, Banksy, Wood Green, London, England

He is known for his political, anti-war stencil art mainly in Bristol, England, but his work may be seen anywhere from Los Angeles to Palestine.

Above: Street art, Banksy, Bristol, England

Above: Naked man, street art, Banksy, Park Street, Bristol

Above: The girl with the pierced eardrum, street art, Banksy, Bristol, England

Above: Banksy street art above bus shelter, Admiralty Road, Great Yarmouth, England

Above: Oscar Wilde (1854 – 1900) – Escaping prisoner, street art, Banksy, Reading, England

Above: Swinger, street art, Banksy, New Orleans, Louisiana, USA

Above: No Loitering, street art, Banksy, New Orleans – Building derelict since the Hurricane Katrina levee failure disaster of 2005

Above: Season’s Greetings, street art, Banksy, Port Talbot, Wales

Above: Children of War, street art, Banksy, Independence Square, Kyiv, Ukraine

Above: Street art, Banksy, bombed building, Irpin, Ukraine

Above: Steve Jobs (1955 – 2011) – The son of a migrant from Syria, street art, Banksy, Calais, France

Above: Rat race, street art, Banksy, 14th Street, Manhattan, New York City

Above: Parachuting rat, street art, Banksy, Melbourne, Australia

In the UK, Banksy is the most recognizable icon for this cultural artistic movement and keeps his identity a secret to avoid arrest.

Above: Devolved Parliament, Banksy

Much of Banksy’s artwork may be seen around the streets of London and surrounding suburbs, although he has painted pictures throughout the world, including the Middle East, where he has painted on Israel’s controversial West Bank barrier with satirical images of life on the other side.

Above: Street art, Banksy, Brick Lane, East End, London, England

Above: Charles Manson (1934 – 2017) – Hitchhiker to Anywhere, street art, Banksy, Archway, London, England

Above: Ozone’s Angel, street art, Banksy, London, England

Above: ATM attacking a girl, street art, Banksy, Rosebery Avenue, London, England

Above: Shop until you drop, street art, Banksy, Mayfair, London, England –

We can’t do anything to change the world until capitalism crumbles.

In the meantime we should all go shopping to console ourselves.

Above: Girl with balloon / There is always hope, street art, Banksy, South Bank, London, England

One depicted a hole in the wall with an idyllic beach, while another shows a mountain landscape on the other side.

A number of exhibitions also have taken place since 2000.

Recent works of art have fetched vast sums of money.

Banksy’s art is a prime example of the classic controversy:

Vandalism vs. art.

Above: Street art, Banksy, Bethlehem, Israel

Above: Civilian drone strike, charity work for Campaign against Arms Trade and Reprieve, Banksy

(Reprieve is a nonprofit organization of international lawyers and investigators whose stated goal is to “fight for the victims of extreme human rights abuses with legal action and public education“.

Their main focus is on the death penalty, indefinite detention without trial (such as in Guantanamo), extraordinary rendition (state-sponsored forcible abduction) and extrajudicial killing (the deliberate killing of a person without the lawful authority granted by a judicial proceeding). )

Art supporters endorse his work distributed in urban areas as pieces of art and some councils, such as Bristol and Islington, have officially protected them, while officials of other areas have deemed his work to be vandalism and have removed it.

Above: The Grin Reaper, Banksy

Above: Painting for saints / Game changer – NHS tribute, street art, Banksy, Southampton General Hospital, England

Pixnit is another artist who chose to keep her identity from the general public. 

Her work focuses on beauty and design aspects of graffiti as opposed to Banksy’s anti-government shock value.

Her paintings are often of flower designs above shops and stores in her local urban area of Cambridge, Massachusetts.

Some store owners endorse her work and encourage others to do similar work as well.

Above: Graffiti artist Pixnit

Graffiti artists may become offended if photographs of their art are published in a commercial context without their permission.

In March 2020, the Finnish graffiti artist Psyke expressed his displeasure at the newspaper Ilta-Sanomat publishing a photograph of a Peugeot 208 in an article about new cars, with his graffiti prominently shown on the background.

The artist claims he does not want his art being used in commercial context, not even if he were to receive compensation.

Above: Graffiti artist Psyke

Territorial graffiti marks urban neighborhoods with tags and logos to differentiate certain groups from others.

These images are meant to show outsiders a stern look at whose turf is whose.

The subject matter of gang-related graffiti consists of cryptic symbols and initials strictly fashioned with unique calligraphies.

Gang members use graffiti to designate membership throughout the gang, to differentiate rivals and associates and, most commonly, to mark borders which are both territorial and ideological.

Above: Gang symbol markings on public property, Millwood, Washington, USA

Many restrictions of civil gang injunctions are designed to help address and protect the physical environment and limit graffiti.

Provisions of gang injunctions include things such as:

  • restricting the possession of marker pens, spray paint cans, or other sharp objects capable of defacing private or public property
  • spray painting, or marking with marker pens, scratching, applying stickers, or otherwise applying graffiti on any public or private property, including, but not limited to the street, alley, residences, block walls, and fences, vehicles or any other real or personal property.

Some injunctions contain wording that restricts damaging or vandalizing both public and private property, including but not limited to any vehicle, light fixture, door, fence, wall, gate, window, building, street sign, utility box, telephone box, tree, or power pole.

Above: Asper Jorn graffiti, “It is forbidden to forbid.“, Paris, 1968

Graffiti has been used as a means of advertising both legally and illegally. 

Bronx-based TATS CRU has made a name for themselves doing legal advertising campaigns for companies, such as Coca-Cola, McDonald’s, Toyota and MTV.

Above: Graffiti artists Tats Cru

In the UK, Covent Garden’s Boxfresh used stencil images of a Zapatista revolutionary in the hopes that cross referencing would promote their store.

Above: Graffiti artist Boxfresh

Above: Street art, Boxfresh, Richmond, Virginia

Smirnoff hired artists to use reverse graffiti (the use of high pressure hoses to clean dirty surfaces to leave a clean image in the surrounding dirt) to increase awareness of their product.

Graffiti often has a reputation as part of a subculture that rebels against authority, although the considerations of the practitioners often diverge and can relate to a wide range of attitudes.

It can express a political practice and can form just one tool in an array of resistance techniques.

One early example includes the anarcho-punk band Crass, who conducted a campaign of stenciling anti-war, anarchist, feminist and anti-consumerist messages throughout the London Underground system during the late 1970s and early 1980s.

Above: Crass at the Cleatormoor Civic Hall, UK, 3 May 1984

Left to right: Pete Wright (bass), Steve Ignorant (vocals), N.A. Palmer (guitar).

In Amsterdam, graffiti was a major part of the punk scene.

The city was covered with names such as “De Zoot“, “Vendex“, and “Dr Rat“.

Above: Graffiti artist Vendex

Above: Graffiti artist Dr. Rat

To document the graffiti a punk magazine was started that was called Gallerie Anus.

So when hip hop came to Europe in the early 1980s there was already a vibrant graffiti culture.

Above: Hip hop musician Grandmaster Flash

The student protests and general strike of May 1968 saw Paris bedecked in revolutionary, anarchistic and situationist slogans, such as L’ennui est contre-révolutionnaire (“Boredom is counterrevolutionary“) and Lisez moins, vivez plus (“Read less, live more“).

While not exhaustive, the graffiti gave a sense of the ‘millenarian’ and rebellious spirit, tempered with a good deal of verbal wit, of the strikers.

Above: Paris, France, May 1968

The developments of graffiti art which took place in art galleries and colleges as well as “on the street” or “underground“, contributed to the resurfacing in the 1990s of a far more overtly politicized art form in the subvertising, culture jamming or tactical media movements.

These movements or styles tend to classify the artists by their relationship to their social and economic contexts, since, in most countries, graffiti art remains illegal in many forms except when using non-permanent paint.

Above: Graffiti on a wall in Čakovec, Croatia

Since the 1990s with the rise of Street Art, a growing number of artists are switching to non-permanent paints and non-traditional forms of painting.

Above: French Resistance hero Pierre Brossolette, Street art, 5th Arrondissement, Paris, France

Contemporary practitioners, accordingly, have varied and often conflicting practices.

Some individuals, such as Alexander Brener, have used the medium to politicize other art forms, and have used the prison sentences enforced on them as a means of further protest.

(Alexander Brener is a Russian performance “artist” and a self-described political activist.

Above: Alexander Davidovich Brener

Brener’s performances of note include defecating in front of a painting by Vincent van Gogh at the Alexander Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts in Moscow, having sex in front of the Monument to Alexander Pushkin in Rostov-on-Don, and vandalizing art works by other artists.

Above: Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts, Moscow, Russia

Above: Monument to Alexander Puskin, Rostov-on-Don, Russia

Above: Russian writer Alexander Pushkin (1799 – 1837)

He was jailed in 1997 for painting a green dollar sign on Kazimir Malevich’s painting Suprematisme

Above: Suprematism (1927), Kazimir Malevich

In the court case Brener said in his defence:

The cross is a symbol of suffering, the dollar sign a symbol of trade and merchandise.

On humanitarian grounds are the ideas of Jesus Christ of higher significance than those of the money.

What I did was not against the painting.

I view my act as a dialogue with Malevich.

I doubt Malevich would have felt the same.

Above: Kazimir Severinovich Malevich (1879 – 1935), Self-portrait (1910)

Giancarlo Politi, the editor of Flash Art, resolutely defended Brener from the pages of his magazine, stirring controversy and campaigning for his acquittal.

Brener was sentenced to five months in prison, where he wrote the essay Obossani Pistolet.

In the text he explains his beliefs and summarizes his actions.

In 2000, Brener disrupted the press conference of Manifesta 3 in Ljubljana by spraying slogans on the presentation screen and handing out leaflets stating:

Demolish neo-liberalist multicultural art system now!

Bodyguards came and dragged Brener out of the hall.

He was later arrested by Slovenian secret police in the streets.

Above: Images of Ljubljana, Slovenia

In 2003, Brener vandalized the work of Swiss-Italian artist Gianni Motti during the opening of Motti’s exhibition “Turnover” at Artra Gallery in Milan.

Above: Gianni Motti

Brener co-wrote a number of books together with Austrian artist and critic Barbara Schurz, including: 

Above: Barbara Schurz and Alexander Brenner

  • Bukaka spat Here

  • Tattoos auf Gefängnissen (Tattoos of Prisoners)

  • Anti Technologies of Resistance 
  • The Art of Destruction

Try as I may, I cannot respect Brener.)

The practices of anonymous groups and individuals also vary widely.

Practitioners by no means always agree with each other’s practices.

For example, the anti-capitalist art group the Space Hijackers did a piece in 2004 about the contradiction between the capitalistic elements of Banksy and his use of political imagery.

Above: The Space Hijackers

Berlin human rights activist Irmela Mensah-Schramm has received global media attention and numerous awards for her 35-year campaign of effacing neo-Nazi and other right-wing extremist graffiti throughout Germany, often by altering hate speech in humorous ways.

Above: Irmela Mensah-Schramm

In the Serbian capital, Belgrade, graffiti depicting a uniformed former general of the Serbian army and war criminal, convicted for war crimes and crimes against humanity, including genocide and ethnic cleansing in the Bosnian War, Ratko Mladic, appeared in a military salute alongside the words: 

General, thank your mother“. 

Above: Ratko Mladic mural, Belgrade, Serbia

Aleks Eror, Berlin-based journalist, explains how “veneration of historical and wartime figures” through street art is not a new phenomenon in the region of former Yugoslavia, and that “in most cases is firmly focused on the future, rather than retelling the past“.

Eror is not only an analyst, but he is pointing to danger of such an expressions for the region’s future.

Above: Aleks Eror

In a long expose on the subject of Bosnian genocide denial, at Balkan Diskurs magazine and multimedia platform website, Kristina Gadže and Taylor Whitsell referred to these experiences as a young generations’ “cultural heritage“, in which young are being exposed to celebration and affirmation of war-criminals as part of their “formal education” and “inheritance“.

There are numerous examples of genocide denial through celebration and affirmation of war criminals throughout the region of Western Balkans inhabited by Serbs using this form of artistic expression.

Several more of these graffiti are found in the Serbian capital, and many more across Serbia and Bosnian and Herzegovinian administrative entity, Republika Srpska, which is the ethnic Serbian majority enclave.

Critics point that Serbia as a state, is willing to defend the mural of convicted war criminal, and have no intention to react on cases of genocide denial, noting that Interior Minister of Serbia, Aleksandar Vulin decision to ban any gathering with an intent to remove the mural, with the deployment of riot police, sends the message of “tacit endorsement“.

Consequently, on 9 November 2021, Serbian heavy police in riot gear, with graffiti creators and their supporters, blocked the access to the mural to prevent human rights groups and other activists to paint over it and mark the International Day Against Fascism and Antisemitism in that way, and even arrested two civic activist for throwing eggs at the graffiti.

Above: Flag of Serbia

Graffiti may also be used as an offensive expression.

This form of graffiti may be difficult to identify, as it is mostly removed by the local authority (as councils which have adopted strategies of criminalization also strive to remove graffiti quickly). 

Therefore, existing racist graffiti is mostly more subtle and at first sight, not easily recognized as “racist“.

It can then be understood only if one knows the relevant “local code” (social, historical, political, temporal, and spatial), which is seen as heteroglot and thus a ‘unique set of conditions‘ in a cultural context.

A spatial code, for example, could be that there is a certain youth group in an area that is engaging heavily in racist activities.

So, for residents (knowing the local code), a graffiti containing only the name or abbreviation of this gang already is a racist expression, reminding the offended people of their gang activities.

Also graffiti is in most cases, the herald of more serious criminal activity to come.

A person who does not know these gang activities would not be able to recognize the meaning of this graffiti.

Also if a tag of this youth group or gang is placed on a building occupied by asylum seekers, for example, its racist character is even stronger.

By making the graffiti less explicit (as adapted to social and legal constraints), these drawings are less likely to be removed, but do not lose their threatening and offensive character.

Above: Graffiti, George Floyd protest, Minneapolis, Minnesota, June 2020

Elsewhere, activists in Russia have used painted caricatures of local officials with their mouths as potholes, to show their anger about the poor state of the roads.

In Manchester, England, a graffitist painted obscene images around potholes, which often resulted in their being repaired within 48 hours.

Spray paint has many negative environmental effects.

The paint contains toxic chemicals, and the can uses volatile hydrocarbon gases to spray the paint onto a surface.

Volatile organic compound (VOC) leads to ground level ozone formation and most of graffiti related emissions are VOCs.

A 2010 paper estimates 4,862 tons of VOCs were released in the United States in activities related to graffiti.

Graffiti databases have increased in the past decade because they allow vandalism incidents to be fully documented against an offender and help the police and prosecution charge and prosecute offenders for multiple counts of vandalism.

They also provide law enforcement the ability to rapidly search for an offender’s moniker or tag in a simple, effective, and comprehensive way.

These systems can also help track costs of damage to city to help allocate an anti-graffiti budget.

The theory is that when an offender is caught putting up graffiti, they are not just charged with one count of vandalism.

They can be held accountable for all the other damage for which they are responsible.

This has two main benefits for law enforcement.

One, it sends a signal to the offenders that their vandalism is being tracked.

Two, a city can seek restitution from offenders for all the damage that they have committed, not merely a single incident.

These systems give law enforcement personnel real-time, street-level intelligence that allows them not only to focus on the worst graffiti offenders and their damage, but also to monitor potential gang violence that is associated with the graffiti.

To help address many of these issues, many local jurisdictions have set up graffiti abatement hotlines, where citizens can call in and report vandalism and have it removed.

San Diego’s hotline receives more than 5,000 calls per year, in addition to reporting the graffiti, callers can learn more about prevention.

Above: San Diego, California

One of the complaints about these hotlines is the response time.

There is often a lag time between a property owner calling about the graffiti and its removal.

The length of delay should be a consideration for any jurisdiction planning on operating a hotline.

Local jurisdictions must convince the callers that their complaint of vandalism will be a priority and cleaned off right away.

If the jurisdiction does not have the resources to respond to complaints in a timely manner, the value of the hotline diminishes.

Crews must be able to respond to individual service calls made to the graffiti hotline as well as focus on cleanup near schools, parks, and major intersections and transit routes to have the biggest impact.

Some cities offer a reward for information leading to the arrest and prosecution of suspects for tagging or graffiti related vandalism.

The amount of the reward is based on the information provided, and the action taken.

When police obtain search warrants in connection with a vandalism investigation, they are often seeking judicial approval to look for items such as:

  • cans of spray paint and nozzles from other kinds of aerosol sprays
  • etching tools, or other sharp or pointed objects, which could be used to etch or scratch glass and other hard surfaces
  • permanent marking pens, markers, or paint sticks
  • evidence of membership or affiliation with any gang or tagging crew
  • paraphernalia including any reference to “(tagger’s name)”
  • any drawings, writing, objects, or graffiti depicting taggers’ names, initials, logos, monikers, slogans, or any mention of tagging crew membership
  • any newspaper clippings relating to graffiti crime

I am all for the notion of free expression.

I cannot say I favour the notion of youth gangs, but I do ponder why they exist.

Poverty rates, crime rates and accessibility to weapons are factors.

The causes of street fighting are varied.

Originally, street fighting was a way of defending oneself.

In the Stone Age, fights were mostly aimed for survival purposes – protected territory, secured resources and protected families.

Humans fight to achieve status and belonging.

They do so because, in evolutionary terms, these are the surest routes to survival and increased reproduction.

As humans evolve, new conflicts arise in order to gratify more sophisticated wants.

The purposes of street fighting shifted to solve interpersonal conflicts.

These conflicts could be stratification, misunderstanding, hate speech or even retaliation.

For instance, in areas that are not under policy surveillance and criminally dominated, violence is believed to be the substantiation of superior reputation and pride. 

In other words, people take part in street fights to obtain dominance because of social status given to the ruler.

For another instance, men showed off their value in the sense that opponents’ self-esteem are on the verge of being destroyed from their insults, humiliation and vilification to which violence is the go-to resort.

Additionally, some fights are driven by alcohol.

Alcohol itself does not directly lead to violence, but it acts as a catalyst, allowing cheers from the crowds or provocation from opponents to ignite the fight between fighters.

Since the consumption of alcohol negatively impacts the brain function, drunk people fail to assess the situation which often results in overreacting and unpredictable fights.

Graffiti as advertising is merely capitalism taking advantage of the voice of dissent.

A Che Guevara T-shirt sold at a H & M does not a revolutionary make nor mean that a capitalist organization supports the notion of revolution demanding accountability from it.

I find it both amusing and disconcerting that marketers succeed at attracting the youth market by suggesting they rebel against society by adopting symbols of revolution so they can become more socially acceptable by their social group.

I support political graffiti if it truly is the sole method of dissent remaining against a regime that violates the rights of its citizenry.

That being said, if the political opinions expressed support the notion of violating the dignity of others I approve of the elimination of the graffiti but defend the right of expression by the artist despite how truly objectionable his expression might be.

People need expression even if I don’t like what they are saying.

Above: Graffiti, Ystad, Sweden

I do think graffiti should be limited to stationary objects.

I would object strongly to anyone defacing my car, especially if it is a message I do not wish to share with everyone who might see my car.

It is one thing limiting a message to one stationary place.

It is quite another making me the unwilling medium of a message I might not advocate.

Building owners can afford to pay to erase unwanted graffiti from the side of a building easier than a working class tenant in his car can afford.

If the graffiti does possess a message that I personally like, on the building of someone who can easily afford the graffiti’s removal, then I will only smile and walk on by.

Not my circus, not my monkeys.

I am no graffitist, for I lack both the courage and the artistry to express myself in this manner, but if someone creates in desperation then perhaps the need for dissent must be articulated in whatever form possible.

Above: An adaption of Eugène Delacroix’ Liberty Leading the People with an inscription “REVOLUTION HAVE STARTED HERE… AND WILL CONTINUE UNTIL…“, Bethlehem, Israel

There are very few individuals who have developed beyond the materialism that drives the planet.

Those who were supposed to pass on the torch of experience and insights to a new generation cannot be found in abundance.

As the young look at the society around them, materialistic, decadent, bourgeois in its values, bankrupt and violent, is it any wonder that they feel the need to express this dissatisfaction with their disillusionment?

Today’s generation is desperately trying to make some sense of their lives and out of the world.

Many of them are products of the middle class.

Some have rejected their materialistic backgrounds, the goal of a well-paid job, the suburban home, the latest model of automobile, club membership, first class travel, status and security, and everything that means “success“.

This is a time of tranquilizers, an age of alcohol, marriages endured, devastating divorces, high blood pressure, high pressure jobs, ulcers, frustration and disappointment in the so-called “good life“.

They see the incredible idiocy of leadership – those who were once treated with reverence and respect seem now worthy only of contempt.

Negativism now extends to all institutions, from the police to the courts to the very System itself.

We live in a world of mass media, of social media, which is as hypocritical as the society’s innate hypocrisy it exposes.

Democracy is viewed as nihilistic, dissent considered kin to bombing and murder.

The search for freedom has no compass, no road, no destination.

We are inundated with a rage of information and facts and yet remain woefully ignorant.

It is bedlam, a world-spinning frenzy.

We desperately seek a way of life that has some meaning or sense.

A way of life that means a certain degree of order, where things have some relationship and can be pieced together into a system that provides some clues as to what Life is about.

We set up religions, invent philosophies, create systems, formulate ideologies, yet never realizing that all values and factors are relative, fluid and ever-changing, like the patterns perceived in a turning kaleidoscope.

Today everything is complex and complicated to the point of incomprehension.

What sense does it make to build rockets to Mars while other men wait on welfare lines, starve in Africa, die needlessly in battle for the protection of other men’s property in the name of nationalism and honour?

We reach for the sublime and drown in the muck of madness.

Graffiti is the scream of madness, an expression of humanity almost silenced by an inhumane world.

Graffiti swears and laughs at the world, a world where the profound needs profanity to question it, a world hungry for laughter and love.

This is why I feel graffiti merits respect.

This is why I advocate graffiti as an art form, for art should speak to us about who we are and who we could be.

Above: Bunker near Berlin Anhalter Bahnhof – Those who build bunkers, throw bombs.

I deeply disapprove of graffiti that seeks to deny our darker nature, that paints the villains of that dark past as models worth emulating, that suggests the horrors of historically documented holocausts never happened, that monsters of hate should be made heroes of change.

Erase these scars from our psyche, please.

Above: Execution of Robert Blum by Austrian troops, 9 November 1848

(Robert Blum (1807 – 1848) was a German democratic politician, publicist, poet, publisher, revolutionist and member of the National Assembly of 1848.

In his fight for a strong, unified Germany he opposed ethnocentrism (to apply one’s own culture or ethnicity as a frame of reference to judge other cultures, practices, behaviours, beliefs and people, instead of using the standards of the particular culture involved). 

It was his strong belief that no one people should rule over another.

As such he was an opponent of the Prussian occupation of Poland and was in contact with the revolutionists there.

Blum was a critic of antisemitism, supported German Catholicism, and agitated for the equality of the sexes.

Although claiming immunity as a member of the National Assembly, he was arrested during a stay at the hotel “Stadt London” in Vienna and executed for his role in the Revolutions of 1848 in the German states.)

Even as we acknowledge that silence is seen by the powerful as assent, we cannot deny the world as it was nor can we hope for change by refusing to accept the world unless it is what we would like it to be.

Accepting the world as it is does not in any sense weaken our desire to change it into what we believe it should be, but it is necessary to begin where the world is if we are going to change it into what it could be.

And this is where graffiti fails.

For change will be resisted if it is not change from within.

Graffiti has always been an exposure to the new, to the radical, to the extreme.

Above: Graffiti, Pestszentlőrinc, Budapest, Hungary

Dostoyevski said that taking a new step is what people fear most.

Taking a new step, seeing the world in a new way, is why graffiti is viewed by many as something to be feared, to be abhorred, to be rejected.

Any revolutionary change must be preceded by a passive, affirmative, non-challenging attitude toward change among the mass of the people.

They must feel so frustrated, so defeated, so lost, so futureless in the prevailing system that they are willing to let go of the past and change the future.

Above: Russian writer Fyodor Dostoyevsky (1821 – 1881)

This is why I do not foresee revolution in America’s future soon nor in Turkey’s immediate future regardless of the outcome of next April’s elections.

Above: Flag of the United Staets of America

Above: Flag of Turkey

For all of its flaws people will protect a system until the day that everyone has had enough.

Graffiti is the expression of the few who have already reached that point.

Youth is impatient with the preliminaries that are essential to purposeful action.

Effective organization is thwarted by the desire for instant and dramatic change – the demand for revelation rather than revolution.

The young desire confrontation for confrontation’s sake.

Graffiti is the expression of that desire.

To build a powerful organization takes time.

It is tedious, but change takes time.

What is the alternative to working inside the System?

Rhetoric, screaming, violence, militant mouthing-off.

Spouting quotes from Mao, Castro and Che Guevara is as germane to our highly technological, computerized, cybernetic, nuclear-powered, mass media, social media society as a stagecoach on a jet runaway at JFK Airport.

Revolution must be preceded by reformation, because a political revolution cannot survive without the supporting base of a popular reformation.

Above: Martin Luther (1483 – 1546) posting his 95 Theses on the door of Wittenberg’s All Saints’ Church, 31 October 1517

People don’t like to step abruptly out of the security of familiar experience.

This is why graffiti isn’t universally embraced by everyone.

People need a bridge to cross from their own experience to a new one.

Graffiti is not that bridge, but rather it is a challenge to the common experience.

Graffiti attempts to shake up the prevailing patterns, aims to agitate, desires disenchantment and discontent with current values of the status quo, wants to produce a passion for change in a passive unchallenging climate.

John Adams wrote:

The American Revolution was effected before the war commenced.

The revolution was in the hearts and minds of the people.

This radical change in the principles, opinions, sentiments and affections of the people was the real revolution.

Effective graffiti captures passion and imagination.

Above: John Adams (1735 – 1826) (US President: 1797 – 1801)

A revolution without a prior reformation will either collapse or become a totalitarian tyranny.

A reformation means that masses of people have reached the point of disillusionment with past ways and values.

They don’t know what will work but they do know that the prevailing system doesn’t.

They won’t act for change but won’t strongly oppose those who do.

From time to time the enemy has been at our gates, but the enemy within has always been the hidden and malignant inertia of the common citizen, rendered invisible by apathy, anonymity and depersonalization.

There is no darker or devastating destiny than the death of a man’s faith in himself and in his power to direct the future.

Graffiti that advocates violence or provokes violent reactions because of its offensive nature is not graffiti worth preserving.

Graffiti that elicits laughter, demonstrates beauty, illuminates love, promises a positive vision of the future, and offers the common man a chance to create discussion deserves protection, admiration and respect.

This is what the world desperately needs:

Laughter, beauty, love, hope and communication.

Above: Graffito, Sliema, Italy

Miami is a city worth visiting, for it is a city of laughter, beauty, love and hope.

The Museum of Graffiti in Miami attempts to communicate these virtues.

Come to Miami.

Visit the Museum.

Enjoy yourself.

Discover how life is both a blessing and a lesson.

Sources: Wikipedia / Wikivoyage / Google / Saul D. Alinsky, Rules for Radicals / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Fyodor Dostoyevsky, Notes from Underground / Fyodor Dostoyevsky, The Idiot / Noel Gallagher (Oasis), “Wonderwall” / Connie Ogle, “The Museum of Graffiti in Miami“, Miami Herald, 25 February 2022 / Marcel Proust, In Search of Lost Time / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Esther Vilar, The Manipulated Man

Above: Strteet art, New York City, New York, USA

Today is gonna be the day that they’re gonna throw it back to you
And by now, you should’ve somehow realised what you got to do
I don’t believe that anybody feels the way I do about you now

Backbeat, the word is on the street that the fire in your heart is out
I’m sure you’ve heard it all before, but you never really had a doubt
I don’t believe that anybody feels the way I do about you now

And all the roads we have to walk are winding
And all the lights that lead us there are blinding
There are many things that I would like to say to you, but I don’t know how

Because maybe
You’re gonna be the one that saves me
And after all
You’re my wonderwall

Today was gonna be the day, but they’ll never throw it back to you
By now, you should’ve somehow realised what you’re not to do
I don’t believe that anybody feels the way I do about you now

And all the roads that lead you there were winding
And all the lights that light the way are blinding
There are many things that I would like to say to you, but I don’t know how

I said maybe
You’re gonna be the one that saves me
And after all

You’re my wonderwall

I said maybe (I said maybe)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me
And after all
You’re my wonderwall

I said maybe (I said maybe)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me (saves me)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me (saves me)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me (saves me)

Radio daze

Eskisehir, Turkey, Sunday 20 November 2022

On 30 October 1938, America was rocked by shocking news:

Aliens had been spotted crash-landing outside Grover’s Mill, New Jersey.

Above: “Martian landing site” historical marker in Grovers Mill, commemorating the War of the Worlds radio broadcast

Additional sightings were soon made across the Northeast, including reports of Martians unleashing poisonous gas on Manhattan and burning onlookers alive with ray guns.

Periodically, the breathless news reports would be reduced to static.

Above: Editorial cartoon by Les Callan (1905–1986), reprinted from The Toronto Star in Radio Digest (February 1939).

No date is provided for the original printing in The Toronto Star.

The cartoon appears below a headline, “Memorable Broadcasts“, and prefaces a printing of the transcript of the original radio play, The War of the Worlds, broadcast 30 October 1938.

The text below the editorial cartoon reads as follows:

FROM TIME TO TIME some quirk of fate, some state of mind, or some brilliance of thought makes a broadcast memorable.

As such it deserves to be preserved, for after it passes from the news it becomes part of the color and woof of our history.

As history and as a commentary on the nervous state of our nation after the Pact of Munich, we present this recent but none-the-less celebrated broadcast.

Above: The New York Times headline from Monday, 31 October 1938

Listeners reacted in real time.

Many of them flooded the streets wearing gas masks and wet towels over their faces.

Stores were raided.

Bridges and expressways were inundated with traffic.

Pregnant women reportedly went into labour.

Above: Orson Welles meeting with reporters in an effort to explain that no one connected with the War of the Worlds radio broadcast had any idea the show would cause panic, 31 October 1938

Of course, the alien invasion never actually happened.

The news bulletins were part of a live Hallowe’en program a young producer and a cast of talented actors were presenting over the radio.

The producer was 23-year-old Orson Welles.

The name of the episode was “War of the Worlds“.

Above: Orson Welles (1915 – 1985) on stage at the Mercury Theatre during the rehearsal of Danton’s Death, after the CBS Radio broadcast of “The War of the Worlds“.

Hours later, instead of arresting us, they let us out a back way and we scurried down to the theatre like hunted animals to their hole.

It was surprising to see life going on as usual in the midnight streets, cars stopping for traffic, people walking.

At the Mercury the company was still rehearsing Danton’s Death …

Welles went up on stage, where photographers, laying in wait, caught him with his eyes raised to heaven, his arms outstretched in an attitude of crucifixion.

Thus he appeared in a tabloid the next morning over the caption:

‘I Didn’t Know What I Was Doing!’

John Houseman (1902 – 1988), Run-Through (1972)

The H.G. Wells-adapted story had been produced for radio as part of Welles’ regular Sunday night broadcast, The Mercury Theater on the Air – a program that had hitherto been largely ignored as it was up against a wildly popular variety show starring comedians Edgar Bergen and Charlie McCarthy.

Above: Herbert George Wells (1866 – 1946)

Above: Edgar Bergen with Charlie McCarthy and Mortimer Snerd from his CBS Radio program, 6 September 1949

Only this Sunday was different as millions of Americans who had tuned in to listen to Bergen and McCarthy changed their dials when the duo introduced a guest opera singer.

No one was in the mood for opera that night.

Much of the country stumbled onto Welles’ broadcast by mistake, not knowing the news bulletins they heard were part of a radio drama.” explained Carl Amari, a syndicated radio host and the founder of Radio Spirits, a large distributor of classic radio programs.

The resulting panic prompted a Federal Communications Commission investigation, changed the way studios used “news flash” bulletins on fictional radio programs and launched the film career of the previously undiscovered Welles.

Shortly afterward, Welles landed an unprecedented movie contract.

Two years later he gave the world Citizen Kane (1941).

Something like that could only happen during the golden age of radio.“, said Murray Horowitz, a Tony Award-winning playwright and the host and co-produced of National Public Radio (NPR)’s The Big Broadcast.

He added:

The 1930s through the mid-1950s are the one time when the whole nation gathered together and listened to the same programs every night.

People believed the news and shared in a collective experience like never before or since.

Until now, that is.

The audience numbers might not quite match those of the mid-20th century, but with more Americans than ever listening to audiobooks and podcasts, audio-only formats have made a massive comeback in recent years, suggesting we might be entering a second golden age of radio – or at least audio.

Above: A young girl listening to a radio during the Great Depression.

From 1920 through the end of World War II, a period called the Golden Age of Radio, radio was the only broadcast entertainment medium.

Families gathered to listen to the home radio receiver in the evening.

The radio shown is a cathedral-style vacuum tube radio.

Podcasts, such as Serial, The Daily, The Shrink Next Door, and This American Life, have “revitalized audio storytelling.“, said Susy Schultz, a radio historian and the former executive director at the Museum of Broadcast Communications – in addition to being very lucrative for some of their creators….

Above: Museum of Broadcast Communications, Chicago, Illinois, USA

But in today’s splintered media environment, it is hard to wrap our minds around just how dominant the leading radio shows were three-quarters of a century ago.

By 1940, the Census Bureau estimates 82.8% of American households owned a radio, many of which tuned into the same programs day and night.

The percentage of Americans who listened to almost any radio program of the time is vastly greater than anything the country is watching on Netflix today.” said Jim Carlton, interim director of the Museum of Broadcast Communications in Chicago.

The progression of modern American entertainment all came about through radio.“, said Neil Grauer, a radio historian and writer based in Baltimore.

Radio paved the way for sketch comedy shows such as Saturday Night Live, evening talk programs such as The Tonight Show, modern soap operas and sports broadcasts.

It also ushered in countless technological advancements, government oversight divisions, such as the FCC, and some of today’s major media organizations.

Before radio, if you wanted entertainment you had to go to a local dance, a vaudeville house, the movie theatre or gather around a player piano.“, Horwitz said.

After radio, everyone was able to be entertained within the walls of their own home.

Above: An American family in the 1920s listening to a crystal radio, 1 January 1922

From a 1922 advertisement for Freed-Eisemann radios in Radio World magazine.

The small radio is on the table.

Crystal sets work off the power received from radio waves, so they are not strong enough to power loudspeakers.

Therefore the family members each wear earphones, the mother and father sharing a pair.

Although this is obviously a professionally posed, promotional photo, it captures the excitement of the public at the first radio broadcasts, which were beginning about this time.

Crystal sets like this were the most widely used type of radio until the 1920s, when they were slowly replaced by vacuum tube radios.

As radio audiences grew, advertisers paid attention.

Anywhere there is a large audience, advertisers follow.“, Schultz said.

Indeed, despite the Depression, advertisers kept increasing their spending to the medium, according to the Library of Congress.

Above: Library of Congress, Washington DC, USA

Many radio shows in the 1930s were in fact produced by ad agencies who put together their own radio production departments.”, said Susan Douglas, a media professor at the University of Michigan and the author of Listening In: Radio and the American Imagination.

Until the technology to pre-record broadcasts was developed and perfected in the mid-1950s, most programs had to broadcast live.

That resulted in countless on-air mispronunciations, sound effect mishaps and fits of laughter, in addition to profanities and innuendos that would have otherwise been edited out during the more prudish era.

Scripted or unscripted, listeners were swept away.

People’s imaginations run wild when they are relying on only one of the five senses.“, Carlton said.

Listening is more stimulating and immersive than a book because there are sound effects and music in addition to words and the audience is filling in every blank mentally.

Paradoxically, it is the most visual of all the mediums.

Radio is the technology of signaling and communicating using radio waves.

Radio waves are electromagnetic waves of frequency between 30 hertz (Hz) and 300 gigahertz (GHz).

They are generated by an electronic device called a transmitter connected to an antenna which radiates the waves, and received by another antenna connected to a radio receiver.

Radio is very widely used in modern technology, in radio communication, radar, radio navigation, remote control, remote sensing and other applications.

Above: A variety of radio antennas on Sandia Peak, near Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA.

Radio transmitting antennas are often located on the highest geographical point in the area, such as mountain peaks, to give them the maximum transmission range, resulting in antenna farms like this.

The existence of radio waves was first proven by German physicist Heinrich Hertz on 11 November 1886.

Above: Heinrich Rudolf Hertz (1857 – 1894)

In the mid 1890s, building on techniques physicists were using to study electromagnetic waves, Guglielmo Marconi developed the first apparatus for long-distance radio communication, sending a wireless Morse code message to a source over a kilometer away in 1895, and the first transatlantic signal on 12 December 1901.

Above: Guglielmo Marconi (1874 – 1937)

The first commercial radio broadcast was transmitted on 2 November 1920 when the live returns of the Republican Warren G. Harding – Democrat James M. Cox presidential election were broadcast by Westinghouse Electric and Manufacturing Company in Pittsburgh, under the call sign KDKA.

Above: Warren G. Harding (1865 – 1923) (US President: 1921 – 1923)

Above: James M. Cox (1870 – 1957)

The Golden Age of Radio, also known as the old-time radio (OTR) era, was an era of radio in the US where it was the dominant electronic home entertainment medium..

It began with the birth of commercial radio broadcasting in the early 1920s and lasted through the 1950s, when TV gradually superseded radio as the medium of choice for scripted programming, variety and dramatic shows.

Radio was the first broadcast medium and during this period people regularly tuned in to their favorite radio programs.

Families gathered to listen to the home radio in the evening.

According to a 1947 C.E. Hooper survey, 82 out of 100 Americans were found to be radio listeners. 

A variety of new entertainment formats and genres were created for the new medium, many of which later migrated to television: radio plays, mystery serials, soap operas, quiz shows, talent shows, daytime and evening variety shows, situation comedies, play-by-play sports, children’s shows, cooking shows, and more.

In the 1950s, TV surpassed radio as the most popular broadcast medium, and commercial radio programming shifted to narrower formats of news, talk, sports and music.

Religious broadcasters, listener-supported public radio and college stations provide their own distinctive formats.

Some old-time radio shows continued on the air, although in ever-dwindling numbers, throughout the 1950s even after their television equivalents had conquered the general public.

One factor which helped to kill them off entirely was the evolution of popular music (including the development of rock and roll), which led to the birth of the top 40 radio format.

A top 40 show could be produced in a small studio in a local station with minimal staff.

This displaced full service network radio and hastened the end of virtually all scripted radio drama by 1962.

(Radio in and of itself would survive, thanks in part to the proliferation of the transistor radio, and permanent installation in vehicles, making the medium far more portable than television.)

Above: Emerson Model 888 Pioneer 8-Transistor AM Radio, 1958

Full-service stations that did not adopt either top 40 or the mellower beautiful music or middle-of-the-road formats eventually developed all news radio in the mid-1960s.

Scripted radio comedy and drama in the vein of old-time radio has a limited presence on US radio.

Several radio theatre series are still in production in the US, usually airing on Sunday nights.

These include original series such as Imagination Theater and a radio adaptation of The Twilight Zone TV series, as well as rerun compilations such as the popular daily series When Radio Was and USA Radio Network’s Golden Age of Radio Theater, and weekly programs such as The Big Broadcast on WAMU, hosted by Murray Horwitz.

These shows usually air in late nights and/or on weekends on small AM stations.

Above: Murray Horwitz

Carl Amari’s nationally syndicated radio show Hollywood 360 features five old-time radio episodes each week during his five-hour broadcast.

Amari’s show is heard on 100+ radio stations coast-to-coast and in 168 countries on American Forces Radio.

Local rerun compilations are also heard, primarily on public radio stations. 

Sirius XM Radio maintains a full-time Radio Classics channel devoted to rebroadcasts of vintage radio shows.

Starting in 1974, Garrison Keillor, through his syndicated two-hour-long program A Prairie Home Companion, has provided a living museum of the production, tone and listener’s experience of this era of radio for several generations after its demise.

Produced live in theaters throughout the country, using the same sound effects and techniques of the era, it ran through 2016 with Keillor as host.

The program included segments that were close renditions (in the form of parody) of specific genres of this era, including Westerns (“Dusty and Lefty, The Lives of the Cowboys“), detective procedurals (“Guy Noir, Private Eye“) and even advertising through fictional commercials.

Keillor also wrote a novel, WLT: A Radio Romance based on a radio station of this era — including a personally narrated version for the ultimate in verisimilitude.

Above: Garrison Keillor

Upon Keillor’s retirement, replacement host Chris Thile chose to reboot the show (since renamed Live from Here after the syndicator cut ties with Keillor) and eliminate much of the old-time radio trappings of the format.

The show was ultimately canceled in 2020 due to financial and logistics problems.

Above: Chris Thile

Vintage shows and new audio productions in America are accessible more widely from recordings or by satellite and web broadcasters, rather than over conventional AM and FM radio.

The National Audio Theatre Festival is a national organization and yearly conference keeping the audio arts — especially audio drama — alive, and continues to involve long-time voice actors and OTR veterans in its ranks.

Its predecessor, the Midwest Radio Theatre Workshop, was first hosted by Jim Jordan, of Fibber McGee and Molly fame, and Norman Corwin advised the organization.

Above: Jim (1898 – 1988) and Marian Jordan (1918 – 1961) as “Fibber McGee and Molly

One of the longest running radio programs celebrating this era is The Golden Days of Radio, which was hosted on the Armed Forces Radio Service for more than 20 years and overall for more than 50 years by Frank Bresee, who also played “Little Beaver” on the Red Ryder program as a child actor.

Above: Frank Bresee (1929 – 2018)

One of the very few still-running shows from the earlier era of radio is a Christian program entitled Unshackled!.

The weekly half-hour show, produced in Chicago by Pacific Garden Mission, has been continuously broadcast since 1950.

The shows are created using techniques from the 1950s (including homemade sound effects) and are broadcast across the US and around the world by thousands of radio stations.

Today, radio performers of the past appear at conventions that feature re-creations of classic shows, as well as music, memorabilia and historical panels.

The largest of these events was the Friends of Old Time Radio Convention, held in Newark, New Jersey which held its final convention in October 2011 after 36 years.

Others include REPS (Radio Enthusiasts of Puget Sound) in Seattle (June), SPERDVAC in California, the Cincinnati OTR & Nostalgia Convention (April), and the Mid-Atlantic Nostalgia Convention (September).

Veterans of the Friends of Old Time Radio Convention, including Chairperson Steven M. Lewis of The Gotham Radio Players, Maggie Thompson, publisher of the Comic Book Buyer’s Guide, Craig Wichman of audio drama troupe Quicksilver Audio Theater and long-time FOTR Publicist Sean Dougherty launched a successor event, Celebrating Audio Theater – Old and New, scheduled for 12 – 13 October 2012.

Radio dramas from the golden age are sometimes recreated as live stage performances at such events.

One such group, led by director Daniel Smith, has been performing re-creations of old-time radio dramas at Fairfield University’s Regina A. Quick Center for the Arts since the year 2000.

Above: Seal of Fairfield University, Fairfield, Connecticut, USA

The 40th anniversary of what is widely considered the end of the old time radio era (the final broadcasts of Yours Truly, Johnny Dollar and Suspense on 30 September 1962) was marked with a commentary on NPR’s All Things Considered.

A handful of radio programs from the old-time era remain in production, all from the genera of news, music, or religious broadcasting: the Grand Ole Opry (1925), Music and the Spoken Word (1929), The Lutheran Hour (1930), the CBS World News Roundup (1938), King Biscuit Time (1941) and the Renfro Valley Gathering (1943).

Of those, all but the Opry maintain their original short-form length of 30 minutes or less.

The Wheeling Jamboree counts an earlier program on a competing station as part of its history, tracing its lineage back to 1933.

Western revival / comedy act Riders in the Sky produced a radio serial Riders Radio Theater in the 1980s and 1990s and continues to provide sketch comedy on existing radio programs including the Grand Ole OpryMidnight Jamboree and Wood Songs Old-Time Radio Hour.

Above: Riders in the Sky

Radio Days is a 1987 American comedy – drama film written and directed by Woody Allen, who also narrates the story.

The film looks back on an American family’s life during the Golden Age of Radio using both music and memories to tell the story.

It stars an ensemble cast.

Joe, the narrator, relates how two burglars got involved in a radio game after picking up the phone during a home burglary.

He goes on to explain that he associates old radio songs with childhood memories.

Above: Woody Allen (Joe the Narrator)

During the late 1930s and early 1940s young Joe lived in a modest Jewish American family in Rockaway Beach.

Above: Seth Green (young Joe)

Above: Rockaway Beach, Queens, New York

His mother always listened to Breakfast with Irene and Roger.

His father kept his occupation secret.

Joe later found out that he was ashamed of being a taxi driver.

Other family members were Uncle Abe and Aunt Ceil, grandpa and grandma, and Aunt Bea.

The latter was a serial dater, always on the lookout for a potential husband.

Above: Joe and his family, Radio Days

Joe’s own favourite radio show was The Masked Avenger.

It made him dream of buying a secret decoder ring.

In Joe’s fantasy the Masked Avenger looked like a hero, but in reality the voice actor was short and bald.

Other radio memories are stories about sporting heroes, news bulletins about World War II, a report of an extraterrestrial invasion, and a live report of the search for a little girl who fell into a well.

Above: Cast of the Masked Avenger, Radio Days

With his friends from school Joe was searching for German aircraft, but instead they saw a woman undressing in her bedroom.

She later turned out to be their substitute teacher.

Alone on the coast Joe saw a German U-boat, but he decided not to tell anyone because they wouldn’t believe him.

Above: Joe sees a German U-boat, Radio Days

Joe was fascinated by the glitz and glamour of Manhattan, where the radio broadcasts were made.

Above: Midtown Manhattan, New York City, USA

He visited the Radio City Music Hall and described it as the most beautiful thing he ever saw.

Above: Radio City Music Hall, Manhattan, New York City

Joe collected stories of radio stars, including that of Sally White, whose dreams of becoming famous were hampered by her bad voice and accent.

Starting as a cigar salesgirl she got stuck on the roof of the radio building with Roger, who was cheating on Irene.

After she witnessed a crime the gangster Rocco wanted to kill her, but following his mother’s advice he ended up using his connections to further her career.

She finally became a reporter of celebrity gossip.

Above: Mia Farrow (Sally White), Radio Days

On New Year’s Eve, Joe was brought down from his room to celebrate the transition to 1944.

Simultaneously the radio stars gathered on the roof of their building.

The narrator concludes that he will never forget those radio voices, although with each passing of a New Year’s Eve they seem to glow dimmer and dimmer.

Above: Scene from Radio Days

Radio is a fast, easy media that targets everyone, from highly educated people to less knowledgeable ones.

The writing is short, simple, in present tense…

Easy to listen to and to memorize.

There is a sense that those on the radio properly understand what they are saying.

Understanding is the key to explaining, the basis to the informal contract between the radio and the audience.

Your audience tunes in to know what is happening.

Each script starts with the freshest copy.

Not only does the first sentence contain the freshest copy, it catches the attention of the listener.

The writing is catchy.

The listener is intrigued.

They understand straight away.

Sentences are short and simple:

Subject/verb/object.

A sentence carries one idea.

The scripts are short.

Every word counts.

Each word chosen wisely, so listeners make their minds up freely.

Whispers of wisdom written for radio.

Radio appeals to the ear.

A well-written script creates perfect mental pictures in the mind of the listener.

It gets to us through our senses.

Listeners see, touch, hear, feel and taste the words.

Every part of the story is exactly, patently, transparently, blindingly clear…

Each story makes one main point or handles one clear issue.

Radio seduces and teases the listener at the beginning, hinting at some great or horrible revelation, but reveals the details bit by bit to hold the listener’s attention until the very end.

Radio leads the listener to say:

Gee, what happened next?”

Then answers that question.

Transitions between one thought and a relatively unrelated one are very important.

Signposts soften the transitions.

Signposts tell in essence:

OK, we’ve dealt with that part of the story, and now we’re moving on to something a little bit different.”

Hinge points get down to business. 

Like a signpost, a hinge point is a crucial moment when you change direction.

While signposts occur several times in a longer story, a hinge point may only occur once.

Start with a tease in the intro about the new big thing coming in this story.

Start in media res, in the middle of things.

Say, in the living room where the expectant mother of the first cloned human is knitting booties.

You might write first about her — where is she, what she is doing, then who she is and why she is important.

You might get into why she chose to do this and what she’s trying to prove.

But at some point, you’re going to shift gears and step back from the action.

You leave her and start in with tape/copy about the huge biomedical debate raging around her, which probably might make up the bulk of the story.

That point might be called the hinge point.

It’s where you say:

“OK, here’s what this story is all about.

AND these are the reasons it is important for you to listen to this.”

Short sentences. 

We speak with simpler syntax than we write with.

Sentences are short.

The longer the sentence, the harder it is to sound natural — and the harder it is for the listener to follow along.

Verbs are better than adjectives. 

Active verbs are better than passive verbs.

Verbs and expressions create visual images in the listener’s mind better than an island of Cherry Garcia floating on a molten sea of hot fudge under a cumulus cloud of whipped cream.

The magic of radio lies largely in its intimacy, the communion of voice and ear.

The ear is eavesdropping on a conversation.

A voice wooing that ear, making a play for its attention, forging a bond with it, drawing it in.

Writing well for radio takes time.

A lot of great writers are only great writers because they work so long and hard at it.

It takes longer to write concisely.

You’ve no doubt heard variations on the old line from Blaise Pascal:

Please forgive the length of this letter.

It was written in haste.”

Above: Blaise Pascal (1623 – 1662)

Ideas, facts, turns of phrase, and anything else comes, that’s the typing phase.

Writing turns that typing into a story.

Why are you doing this story in the first place?

Ask yourself:

What is the job I’m asking this to do?

Is it to convey the information the listener needs to be able to understand and appreciate?

Is it the narrative thread?

Is it to prime for a new experience?

Or is it like a baton exchange in a relay, moving from one element to the next?

Or the purpose might be to create a mood or establish a tone.

Small, but telling details, little narratives, fulsome descriptions or mini-essays immerse the audience in the world.

That voice of the people.

We get to know a host’s voice intimately — their cadence and the speed at which they read and speak, their delivery, their personality and the sorts of expressions that come naturally to them.

Conversational.

Radio is like television, except with better pictures.

Pictures planted in the listener’s head with concrete images and sharp descriptions of people, places and action.

But it doesn’t stop there.

It surrounds the listener with sensations and uses all the senses.

The smells, the sounds, the physical sensations.

Life made pungent.

Natural and new — natural and familiar enough to make sense, but new and unexpected enough to be arresting and make you look at things differently.

Radio is…

Magic.

Video did not kill the radio star as much as it killed the imagination.

Turn off the TV.

Turn away from your phone and computer screen.

Put down that book or magazine.

Close your eyes.

Friends, Romans, countrymen, lend me your ears.

Magic.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Daryl Austin, “Is radio in a second golden age? Here’s what the first looked like.“, Washington Post, 7 April 2022

Swiss Miss and the Land of Legends

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Monday 18 July 2022

What makes a great short story?

The sudden unforgettable revelation of character, the vision of a world through another’s eyes, the glimpse of truth, the capture of a moment in time.

All this the short story, at its best, is uniquely capable of conveying, for in its very shortness lies its greatest strength.

The short story can discover depths of meaning in the casual word or action.

It can suggest in a page what could be stated in a volume.

Such is the quality of experience I seek to offer you, in as many and diverse ways that I can, if I can.

For I am still learning to write, still seeking to satisfy readers with sentences that shrink, snap into place, and emerge into the world in a clear economical sharp shape.

Writers learn to write by writing, conscious of style, of diction, of how sentences are formed and information conveyed, how plot is structured and characters created, how detail and dialogue are designed, how stories are spun and dreams woven.

And as I write I discover that writing is done one word at a time, one punctuation mark each moment.

Every word is on trial for its life.

I write for adults, but I treat them as children, for children love imagination with all its kaleidoscopic possibilities.

Travel accounts should take us far from our lives while teaching us about life.

How many rooms there are in the House of Art!

Above: Hundertwasserhaus (Hundred Water House), Wien (Vienna), Österreich (Austria)

It is not a great time in history to be a writer, for too little attention is paid to language, to the actual words and sentences that a writer uses.

Instead we have all been encouraged to have, to form, strong and critical (and often negative) opinions of all that we encounter.

We have been instructed to prosecute or defend writers, as if in a court of law, on charges having to do with the writers’ origins, their racial, cultural, political, religious and class background.

Before a word is read, because so many words are written by so many writers, a writer must be pre-judged worthy of our time and attention long before his language is actually experienced.

In an age that prides itself on insight, tolerance and awareness, we are blind and intolerant and oblivious to whatever lies beyond our own perceptions and experience.

To write, even the most basic of blogs, is to learn to write by rote, by painful practice, by wearisome work, by repeated terrible terrifying trial and error, surprising success and abysmal failure, to create words someone else might admire.

We want information, entertainment, invention, even truth and beauty, and we want it all NOW.

So we concentrate solely on our destined desires, we skim, we skip, we excuse ourselves from effort if the effort requires time and thought.

We dare not even daydream, for every moment we must distract ourselves from wasted time, foolishly forgetting that it is the distraction from thought and contemplation that is truly the waste.

Some folks who travel seek simply to escape the life they know too well by trying to find its familiar luxuries in places unfamiliar.

I am cut from the same cloth these days.

A ten-day vacation on the Black Sea coast and each evening in a hotel.

But I spend more time writing and reading than swimming and drinking, more time in museums than on the beach.

I am still trying to learn from the book that is the world.

Above: Zonguldak, Türkiye

Above: Safranbolu, Türkiye

Above: Amasra, Türkiye

Above: Kastamonu, Türkiye

Above: Sinop, Türkiye

Above: Samsun, Türkiye

Months of globetrotting, years of travel, and seldom a night did Swiss Miss sleep in settings too alien from her settled experience.

I say this not to judge her, but to simply acknowledge that the standards of a woman differ from the standards of a man.

To judge a cat from the perspective of a dog is to misjudge the cat.

To see the world as Heidi Hoi has requires courage, but what a woman is willing to sacrifice differs from that of a man.

Let me not judge her by my own distinct differences, but instead let us see her journey as it was, rather than what we believe it should have been.

Instead let us read of what it could have been, for time and distance blur detail.

Truth is not found in accuracy of detail as much as in the commonality of the human experience.

Ninh Binh to Vinh, Vietnam, Tuesday 26 March 2019

Although largely devoid of beaches, Vietnam’s northern coast boasts mystical scenery, where jagged islands jut out of the sea in their thousands, where one stumbles upon hidden coves, needle-sharp ridges and cliffs of ribbed limestone.

The waters here are patrolled by squadrons of tourist junks seeking unique dramatic views seen by the fleets of other tourist boats.

Karst islands at sea, karst scenery inland.

Colonial buildings and monstrous caves beckon.

The area north of Dong Hoi is one of the poorest in Vietnam and is little developed for tourism.

Above: Flag of Vietnam

However, the mountains brushing the Laos border are home to a number of unique animal species, including the elusive saola ox and the more numerous giant muntjac deer.

Above: Flag of Laos

Above: Saola ox

Above: Giant muntjac deer

Intrepid travellers with their own transport are beginning to venture inland, but the vast majority of tourists either slog their way along the coast determined to dash quickly to their destinations or simply leapfrog this long coastal stretch.

Heidi and her travelling companion zoom along the coast on motorbikes, believing that there is little reason to linger between Sam Son and Vinh, a 140-km, a 2-hour and 54-minute ride.

But landscape deceives, for it is here where legends lurk and linger…..

The Tam Giang Lagoon begins south of Sam Son near the village of Quang Loi, a place of livestock, fowls and fish.

The depth of the Lagoon is, on average, from two to four metres, but in some places it is seven metres deep.

Every year, thousands of tons of seafood, fish and shrimp are collected from this Lagoon.

Although it is a Lagoon, there are nevertheless waves.

For Tam Giang is the intersection of rivers and the mouth to the sea is narrow, so there are many whirlpools, big waves and strong winds that can easily capsize boats, so boats dare not to cross.

Above: Tam Giang Lagoon

Floating markets are one of the features of this largest lagoon in southeast Asia. 

Floating markets usually start at 0400 and end at dawn. 

Not as crowded and diverse as the floating markets in the southwest region of Vietnam, the floating market here mainly sells aquatic products of the Lagoon.

Above: Tam Giang Lagoon

Something about the Lagoon reminds me of Linda Ronstadt’s “Blue Bayou“:

I feel so bad I got a worried mind
I’m so lonesome all the time
Since I left my baby behind
On Blue Bayou

Saving nickels, saving dimes
Working till the sun don’t shine
Looking forward to happier times
On Blue Bayou

I’m going back someday
Come what may
To Blue Bayou


Where the folks are fine
And the world is mine
On Blue Bayou


Where those fishing boats
With their sails afloat
If I could only see


That familiar sunrise
Through sleepy eyes
How happy I’d be

Above: Tam Giang Lagoon

Gonna see my baby again
Gonna be with some of my friends
Maybe I’ll feel better again
On Blue Bayou

Saving nickels, saving dimes
Working till the sun don’t shine
Looking forward to happier times
On Blue Bayou

Above: Tam Giang Lagoon

I’m going back someday
Come what may
To Blue Bayou


Where the folks are fine
And the world is mine
On Blue Bayou


Where those fishing boats
With their sails afloat
If I could only see


That familiar sunrise
Through sleepy eyes
How happy I’d be

Above: Tam Giang Lagoon

Oh, that love of mine
By my side
The silver moon
And the evening tide


Oh, some sweet day
Gonna take away
This hurting inside


Well, I’ll never be blue
My dreams come true
On Blue Bayou

Above: Tam Giang Lagoon

In the 1970s, during the fierce period of the Vietnam War, musician Tran Thien Thanh (1942 – 2005) set the music for a poem by To Thuy Yen and named the song Chieu on Tam Giang Lagoon

The song has a passage:

In the afternoon on Tam Giang Lagoon, I suddenly miss you.

Linda Ronstadt would understand the feeling.

Above: Linda Ronstadt

In Quang Loi, there are folk songs, including the Cotton Dance, and culinary delights like scrambled eggs, wet pork buns and various cakes.

One could linger, but one does not.

Above: Quang Loi

Down the road, down the coast, Quang Linh is a real place, but it is also the name of a person.

Quang Linh (full name: Le Quang Linh , born 1965) is a singer specializing in folk music, especially Hué music. 

In addition, he also sings youth music as well as contemporary music. 

Quang Linh succeeded with the songs: 

  • The old starling bird 
  • Who came to Hué 
  • The homeland 
  • Loving Vietnam 
  • Hair with a ponytail 
  • Ca dao em and me 
  • My friend 

Quang Linh has loved singing since childhood and has been active in Children’s Houses. 

At the age of 19, he decided to enter the artistic path.

Quang Linh first sang as an amateur at the Hue Youth Cultural House and then joined the Shock Band.

In 1990, Quang Linh won first prize for the best voice in the Central region with two songs, “Tuoi Anh Ly” and “Send Hué”.

Lecturer Lo Thanh at Hué Conservatory of Music taught Quang Linh some basic techniques and introduced the singer to the show Vu An Khoa.

Quang Linh became a professional singer and sang throughout the northern provinces, and participated in important roles in music programs. 

He is famous in the Green Wave live show series (1999 – 2005).

In early 1996, Quang Linh was invited to officially collaborate with the Thang Long Music and Dance Theatre in Hanoi.

He also appeared many times on HTV (Ho Chi Ming City) with the programs Musical Bridge, Instead of Words to Say, and other music programmes.

He also appeared on other singers’ live shows as a guest such as: Cam Ly (15 years of singing), Pham Duy (Returning day), and Huong Lan (Life’s grace, a folk song).

Currently, Quang Linh operates both domestically and overseas.

Quang Linh’s name is still attractive today.

He has been invited by many producers to be the jury of major music gameshows.

Above: Quang Linh

Dien Chau district is 260 km from Hanoi and 36 km from Vinh, passed by National Highway 1 and the North – South Railway.

Above: Dien Chau

Passers-by know nothing of the Cuong Temple Festival (13 – 15 February), replete with many activities, such as the ceremony of sitting down, cock fighting, human chess, wrestling, teeter swinging, singing, beauty contests, table tennis, tug-of-war, mountain climbing…..

Leaves me breathless just thinking about it.

Above: Cuong Temple Festival, Dien Chau

Dien Chau is home to many famous wrestlers:

  • Pho Nga, a man who ate very well – 30 pots of rice and three pig’s heads in one meal
  • Nguyen Ngoc Chan also had an appetite – a whole basket of rice with salted eggplant

Legend has it that a honey trader, carrying two jars of honey for a contest, seeing Nguyen lift a buffalo so it could safely wade across the river, immediately gave him his honey and returned home.

Another tale told is that Nguyen once hugged a wrestler from Nghi Loc and threw him out of the ring.

The wrestler gave up his wrestling career.

Many characters from Dien Chau are handed down by folk through stories and legends associated with them. 

These are the people who represent the body and soul of the people of Dien:

Industrious, healthy, optimistic, love of life, love of homeland.

Above: Dien Chau

  • Man Nhuy: His jokes have a gentle and profound satirical nuance. 

His laughter always pointed at corrupt officials and sided with the working people.

(Man reminds me of Nasreddin Hoca, a Sufi philosopher and wise man, from Eskişehir Province, (wherein I presently reside), remembered for his funny stories and anecdotes.

He appears in thousands of stories, sometimes witty, sometimes wise, but often, too, a fool or the butt of a joke.

A Nasreddin story usually has a subtle humour and a pedagogic nature.)

Above: Nasreddin Hoca (1208 – 1285)

  • Co Bo is a mythical character, who represents the God of Fire. 

Legend has it that when night fell, Great-grandfather Bo went to the East, turned his hat upside down into the sea to make a boat, used tree branches as oars, rowed to the sunrise and brought fire to everyone. 

He also punished dirty miserly people by playing pranks on them with fire.

(Could Co Bo have inspired the writers of Doctor Who?

The Face of Boe appeared to be little more than a gigantic humanoid head.

Although he would rarely do more than grunt vocally, he was able to communicate by means of telepathy.

He communicated verbally on at least one occasion.

The Face of Boe had the distinction of being one of the oldest creatures in the known universe.

By the time of his death, he was the oldest creature.

Above: The Face of Boe (Struan Rodger)

In the year 5 billion, the Face of Boe was the sponsor of an event to safely witness the destruction of the Earth by the expansion of the Sun.

The hot water in his room on the platform observing “Earth death” was not working.

The event was sabotaged by Lady Cassandra, but the Face was among the remaining survivors.

Above: Lady Cassandra O’Brien (Zoe Wanamaker)

By 5,000,000,023, the Face of Boe was hospitalised in Ward 26 of the hospital run by the Sisters of Plenitude on New Earth.

Above: The Sisters of Plentitude

By this time, he was the last of Boekind.

He was worshipped in several galaxies.

Above: The Face of Boe

Novice Hame believed the Face of Boe had a claim to godhood.

Above: Novice Hame (Anna Hope)

Apparently dying of old age, the Face summoned the Tenth Doctor to his ward.

When a novice told the Doctor the legend of the Face’s last words — a secret which the Face would impart only to one like himself — the Doctor realised that he fit the description of “the wanderer, the man without a home, the lonely god“.

The Face of Boe eventually recovered, saying that although he had grown tired of the universe, the Doctor had shown him a new way of looking at things.

The Doctor asked about the message, but the Face told him that it could wait for their third and final meeting, and teleported away.

Above: The 10th Doctor (David Tennant), Martha Jones (Freema Agyeman), Novice Hame and the Face of Boe

At some point shortly after, he took Novice Hame (his former nurse) into his service to help her atone for her and her order’s crimes.

When the city of New New York was struck by a highly infectious and universally fatal virus, the Face of Boe was able to protect her by “shrouding her in his smoke“.

With the rest of the surface inhabitants of New Earth dead, only they and those in the undercity, which had been sealed off, were left.

However the city did not have enough power to release those trapped in the undercity and would have lost power completely in time.

Above: New New York, New Earth

To prevent this, the Face of Boe wired himself into the power grid, using his own life energy to keep the basic functions of the undercity running with Hame caring for him to ensure he could continue.

Above: The Undercity, New New York, New Earth

The Face of Boe was a compassionate and selfless being who was willing to give his life for the greater good.

Above: The Face of Boe and the 10th Doctor

The Doctor was ultimately reunited with the Face of Boe one last time during his travels with Martha Jones, in the year 5,000,000,053.

This was the only time the Face of Boe communicated vocally with the Doctor.

Boe revealed his last secret with his dying breath after sacrificing himself to save the city of New New York:

You are not alone.”

The Doctor dismissed this, as he still firmly believed himself the last Time Lord.

When the Doctor later met Professor Yana, who eventually was discovered to be a hidden incarnation of the Master, the Doctor realised the significance of the name “Yana“.

It was an acronym, standing for “You Are Not Alone.“.

Above: Doctor Yana / The Master (Derek Jacobi)

When Davros (the Creator of the Daleks, the Doctor’s main enemy) asked the Doctor “How many have died in your name?“, the Face of Boe was among those he remembered.)

Above: Davros (Julian Bleach)

Perhaps that is the ultimate message of Doctor Who, perhaps that is the true lesson of travel:

We are not alone and, as such, we have responsibilities to both ourselves and others.

  • Chem’s real name was Nguyen Ngoc Thu, but the entire Nho Lam commune called him Chem. 

Chem had more health than people. 

Stories circulated about him often associated with his participation in patriotic movements. 

Above: Dien Chau

He lived in the second half of the 19th century, having participated in the Giap Tuat Movement of 1874 and the Can Vuong Movement of 1885.

Above: Signing of the 1874 Tiger Pact (Treaty of Peace and Alliance)

Above: The capture of Ham Nghi, 1887

  • Cha Van was from Trung Phuong village, now in Dien Minh commune. 

He was a man of conscience, who seeing the right thing to do, had the guts and the wisdom to make many powerful people afraid of him. 

There are many stories about him. 

Once, he faced the chief of Truong Son village who used to bully good people, making him beg for mercy.

In addition, this place is also associated with the legend of My Chau – Trong Thuy:

Local lore has it that this is where An Duong Vuong used a sword to kill My Chau, while Trieu Da and his son Trong Thuy were pursuing her troops.

An Duong Vuong (real name Thuc Phan) was the founder of Au Lac, the second state in Vietnamese history after the state of Van Lang.

Above: Statue of An Duong Vuong (r. 257 – 179 BCE), Ho Chi Minh City

Dai Viet Su Ky Toan Thu (Da Viet’s History Book) wrote:

Above: Cover of Dai Viet Su Ky Toan Thu, 1697

Hung Vuong had a beautiful daughter named My Nuong. 

Above: My Nuong

An Duong Vuong heard the news and sent an envoy to propose marriage. 

Vuong wanted to get married, but My Nuong’s father said: 

Thuc wants to marry our country. 

Unable to marry My Nuong, Vuong became angry and told his descendants to destroy Van Lang and take over the country. 

Thuc Vuong’s nephew, Thuc Phan, several times brought troops to fight Van Lang. 

But Hung Vuong with good generals and soldiers defeated the Thuc army. 

Hung Vuong said:

I have divine power, isn’t Thuc afraid?” 

But he just revelled in feasting without worrying about the military. 

Therefore, when the Thuc army moved to fight Van Lang, King Hung was still in a drunken state. 

When Thuc’s army approached, King Hung turned and ran away and jumped into the river to commit suicide. 

The General surrendered. 

In the 1st year of his reign [257 BCE], the King conquered Van Lang and changed the country name to Au Lac.”

Above: Tuong Hung Vuong, Tao Dan Park, Ho Chi Minh City

Frankly, I don’t know nor need to know the exact time things happened.

Suffice that they did.

In the same period, in China, Qin Shi Huang merged six countries after years of war in the Warring States period. 

He continued his ambition to invade Bach Viet, the land of the Vietnamese tribes in present-day southern China and northern Vietnam. 

The invading army of the Qin Dynasty led by Do Thu captured many lands of Vietnam and made them Chinese territory. 

When entering the northeastern territory of Au Lac, the Qin army encountered the long-term resistance of the Vietnamese led by Thuc Phan.

In 218 BCE, Qin Shi Huang mobilized 50,000 troops divided into five divisions to conquer Bach Viet. 

To advance to the South, going deep into Au Lac land, the first army led by General Su Loc had a canal dug connecting the Luong River to carry food. 

Thanks to this, the ruler Tu Thu killed the chief Dich Hu Tong, occupied the land and entered Lac Viet. 

Above: Qin Shi Huang, the first Emperor of China (259 – 210 BCE)




On the other side of the front line, An Duong Vuong was revered by the Lac generals as a joint leader in command of this resistance. 

Sending troops deep into Au Lac land, Vuong led his people to fight the enemy. 

Wherever the Qin army went, Au Lac people practised a scorched earth strategy. 

The Qin army fought for many years, Do Thu organized an ineffective attack and annihilation, gradually falling to a serious food shortage. 

When the Qin army was exhausted due to lack of food, the Au Lac army and people commanded by Vuong began to go into battle.

The Qin army could neither advance nor retreat as they were surrounded by Au Lac people. 

Vuong’s army made a surprise attack and used bows and crossbows to attack the Qin army. 

At this time, Do Thu hesitated, not knowing how to seize the opportunity, died in this battle. 

Losing their master, the Qin army panicked and opened a way to flee to the country. 

The historical record of Sima Thien describes the state of the Qin army at that time as follows:

Stationed in useless land.

Can’t advance, can’t withdraw. 

Men wear armor, women have to carry, the suffering cannot live. 

People hang themselves on trees along the way. 

The dead look at each other.

Above: Symbols of China

According to Hoai Nam Tu, General Do Thu was killed, the Qin army was slaughtered in hundreds of thousands, and the Qin country had to take exiled prisoners to supplement the army.

After nearly 10 years of resistance war, the people of Vietnam gained independence. 

Vuong consolidated and rebuilt the country.

Above: Bronze arrows at Co Loa Citadel

After the victory over the Qin army, Vuong’s reputation echoed throughout the region. 

One of Van Lang’s leaders, Cao Lo, helped Vuong build Co Loa Citadel and intercontinental crossbows (which could shoot many arrows in one shot).

Above: The divine crossbow

In order to strengthen the military defense, Vuong had his army and people build Co Loa Citadel day and night, equipping the citadel with many fearsome weapons. 

He ordered his subordinates to train tens of thousands of soldiers day and night to practice crossbow shooting.  

Au Lac’s bow set at that time was famous everywhere as invincible, compared with the horsemen of the Qin Dynasty, the intercontinental crossbow became the invincible weapon of Au Lac country.

According to legend, the citadel was built many times but never fell. 

Above: Map of Co Loa Citadel

The book Kham Viet Su Thong Giam Cuong:

Above: Kham Viet Su Thong Giam Cuong

Vuong had Cao Thong help him, he invented a crossbow, killed tens of thousands with one shot, shot three times and killed three thousand. 

An Duong Vuong has a daughter named My Chau, seeing that Trong Thuy was handsome, she immediately fell in love. 

Later, Trong Thuy seduced My Chau to ask to see the magic crossbow.

My Chau showed it. 

Trong Thuy broke the crossbow lever, and then immediately sent someone to send the news to Trieu Da. 

Trieu Da brought his army to attack

When the Trieu army arrived, An Duong Vuong took out his crossbow to shoot like before, but the crossbow was broken! 

Vuong’s army ran away. 

Above: Statue of Emperor Trieu Da (257 – 137 BCE), Nam Viet Vuong Temple, Da Thanh, China




Today, this historical sample has been listed as one of the earliest types of spy wars in Vietnamese history.

The story of My Chau with the story Spreading goose feathers is the earliest found in Linh Nam Chic Quai (Strange stories in the Land of Vietnam). 

This book specializes in recording ghost stories, most of which are just legends, not real history. 

The date of this book is uncertain.

Above:  Linh Nam Chic Quai

On 7 March, an old man from the east suddenly came to the gate of the city and lamented: 

When will this city be built?” 

Vuong joyfully welcomed him into the palace, saluted, and asked: 

I have built this citadel many times, it has been destroyed by many times, it took a lot of effort, but it failed, so what’s the excuse?” 

The old man replied: 

There will be an envoy from Thanh Giang who will come with the King to build a successful new project.” 

Above: Co Loa Citadel, Hanoi

The next day, Vuong went to the east door to wait, when he suddenly saw a golden tortoise from the east, floating on the water, speaking fluently in human language, claiming to be Thanh Giang, a messenger, knowing about Heaven and Earth, yin and yang, ghosts and spirits. 

Happily the King said:

“That’s what the old man told me in advance.” 

Then the procession proceeded into the city, the tortoise was invited to sit on the throne, and was asked why the city could not be built. 

The golden tortoise replied: 

The spirit in this mountain is the son of a previous king, who wants to avenge the country.

There is a rooster living for a thousand years, that turns into a leprechaun and is hidden in That Dieu Mountain.

There is a ghost in the mountain, a spirit.

The musician of the previous dynasty was buried here.

Besides, there is an inn for visitors, the owner is named Hgo Khong, there is a chicken that is the residual energy of ghosts.

When crossing the street to spend the night at the inn, the ghosts transform into various forms to do harm.

So many people die because of this.

Now, the white rooster wants to marry the innkeeper’s daughter.

If the rooster can be killed, the devil will be suppressed, and love will gather yin energy.

The city will be built.

Above: Turtle statue, Cuong Temple

The golden turtle told the King to be a traveller staying at the inn, leaving the golden turtle above the door frame. 

The innkeeper said: 

This shop has goblins, the night often kills people.

It’s not dark today, please go quickly, don’t stay.” 

Vuong smiled and said: 

Life and death have a destiny, the devil can’t do anything, I am not afraid.” 

At night, the demons outside came in, shouting: 

Who is here, why don’t you open the door?” 

The golden turtle shouted: 

If you close the door, what will you do?” 

The devil then transformed into hundreds of thousands of forms, trying to threaten in thousands of directions, but in the end, he could not. 

By the time the rooster crowed in the morning, the ghosts had dispersed. 

The golden tortoise with the King chased the ghosts to That Dieu Mountain, but they disappeared. 

Vuong then returned to the shop. 

The next morning, the innkeeper sent someone to pick up the expected dead body at the inn for burial.

Seeing that Vuong was still smiling and laughing, he prostrated himself and said: 

“If you can do that, you must be a saint, so please give me magic medicine to save the people’s livelihood.”

Vuong told him: 

If you kill a white chicken and sacrifice it to the gods, all the ghosts will disappear.”

The innkeeper obeyed.

 

The King then ordered a dig in That Dieu Mountain, found many ancient musical instruments and bones, burnt them to ashes and poured them into the river. 

It was almost dark.

Vuong and the golden tortoise went up to Viet Thuong Mountain to see that the ghost had turned into a six-legged owl and had flown to a sandalwood tree.

The golden turtle, turned into a black rat, followed, biting the owl’s leg.

The citadel was built in half a month and finished. 

That citadel is more than a thousand zhang wide, twisted like a spiral, so it is called Loa Thanh, also known as Tu Long Thanh, the Tang people called it Kunlun Citadel, presumably because it was very tall. 

Above: Remnants of Co Loa Citadel, Hanoi

The golden tortoise stayed for three years, then left. 

The King thanked him and said:

Thanks to the gods, the city has been built.

Now, if there is an enemy outside, what can we do to fight it?” 

The golden tortoise replied: 

The fortunes of the country are in decline, and the peace of the communes is due to the destiny of Heaven.

The King can cultivate virtue and prolong luck.

What the King wishes, I have no regrets”. 

Then he took off his claws and gave in to the King and said: 

Use this as a crossbow, and shoot at the enemy, and you will not have to worry about them.” 

Finally, the golden tortoise returned to the East Sea (Vietnamese for East China Sea). 

The King again ordered Cao Lo to make a crossbow, using the claws to make it, called Linh Quang Kim Qua Than Co.

Later, King Trieu sent troops to invade the South.

King An Duong fought against them. 

Vuong shot the magic crossbow.

Trieu’s army lost a lot of men.

Trieu sued for peace. 

Vuong married his daughter, My Chau, to Trieu’s son, Trong Thuy. 

Trong Thuy coaxed My Chau to let her see the magic crossbow and then secretly made another crossbow, lying that he was going to the North to visit his father, saying: 

The love between husband and wife cannot be forgotten.

The meaning of mother and father cannot be abandoned.

I am going back to visit my father now.

If the time comes when the two countries are at odds, north and south are separated, I will look for you again.

What will be my sign?” 

My Chau replied:

“The fate of a daughter, if I meet the scene of leaving leaves, it will be extremely painful.

I have the goose feather brocade shirt I often wear.

Wherever I go, I will tear off the feathers and sprinkle them at the crossroads to make a sign, so I can save you and we can be together.

Trong Thuy brought the gods back to the country. 

The momentum was jubilant, so he sent troops to fight. 

An Duong Vuong trusted his magic crossbow, still calmly played chess, smiled and said: 

Isn’t Trieu afraid of the magic crossbow?” 

Above: Chinese chess

Quan Tu approached, Vuong took up the crossbow, saw that he was lost and ran away. 

Vuong put My Chau behind the horse and they ran together to the South. 

Trong Thuy followed the goose feathers My Chau scattered behind her and chased them.

An Duong Vuong ran to the shore.

It was the end.

No boat passed, so he cried: 

Heaven harmed me, where is Thanh Giang’s envoy?

Hurry up and save me“. 

The golden turtle appeared on the water, shouting: 

The one behind the horse is the enemy!” 

Vuong then drew his sword to cut down My Chau.

My Chau made a vow: 

“I am a girl.

If you have a rebellious heart to plot against your father, you will die when you die.

If someone’s loyalty is deceived, you will die.

All will turn into pearls to wash away the grudge.” 

My Chau died at the edge of the pool.

Blood flowed into the water.

Clams turned into pearls. 

It is said that that place is Dien Chau. 

Trong Thuy arrived.

Only the body of My Chau remained. 

Trong Thuy hugged his wife’s body and brought it to be buried in Loa Thanh.

Her body turned into jade. 

Above: Jade stone

After My Chau died, Trong Thuy mourned endlessly.

When he went to take a bath, he thought he saw the figure of My Chau, so he plunged into the well and died. 

Later, people searched for pearls in the East Sea and washed them with the water from this well.

Regarding this incident, the historian Ngo Si Lien (1400 – 1498), in the Dai Viet Su Ky Toan Thu, commented:

Above: Dai Viet Su Ky Toan Thu

Is the story of the golden turtle believable? 

The story of the god descending to the land, the story of stone talking, is possible. 

Because God’s work is based on people, relying on things to speak. 

The country is about to prosper, the gods come down to see the virtues. 

The kingdom is about to be lost and the gods come to judge crimes. 

So sometimes the god descends but flourishes, sometimes the god descends and dies.

 

An Duong Vuong built the citadel without thought for the people’s strength, so the god sent the golden turtle to warn him.

Wasn’t it because of the resentment of the people that it became like that? 

But that’s still pretty good. 

As he was worried about future disaster and begged a god, his own heart was already aroused. 

Once your own heart sprouts, then the heavens die accordingly, so why did God sow disaster?

The golden tortoise poured out its sacred hoof and said it could repel the enemy, is that a disaster? 

For Vuong it certainly was. 

So isn’t it a god that follows people and acts? 

If there is no plea to the golden turtle, just follow one’s morals, maybe the national unity will not last long? 

As for the story of My Chau sprinkling goose feathers showing the way, it is unlikely. 

According to historical records, An Duong Vuong’s death was due to the magic crossbow being changed, Trieu Viet Vuong’s death because his hat lost his dragon’s claws.

They were all borrowed words to make things become sacred. 

Great, the defense of the country against the enemy has its own morals.

If the country is righteous, many people will help.

But if the country is prosperous, because it is unethical, few people will help, but the country will lose, and not because of these things made sacred.

They had left things…..

Unsettled.

Heidi was free to do as she would, but she longed for companionship.

Not that her travelling companion from Argentina wasn’t a delight to travel with, but he liked men in the manner in which she liked men, and companionship without physical intimacy does not always suffice for a young woman.

Above: Flag of Argentina

Her Mumbai boyfriend and her had harsh words for one another.

He had not trusted her.

She had not given him a reason to do so.

Trust is necessary in any relationship, but in a long distance one it is essential.

One has to assume there is love and commitment.

One has to hope that both are willing to work on the relationship.

There is no easy way to build that trust, no easy way to maintain it.

But, despite the division, text messages drifted like goose feathers in the wind.

There was no way to know if they would be received as intended.

There was so much she wished to share with him, so much that needed to be said, so many stories to tell.

People see only details, isolated, unimportant specifics, which for them contain the essence and all the importance of that instance, but in our heads, all those details become mixed up and overlap, thus creating a rich and interesting, unproductive and intangible chaos.

The difficulty with long distance relationships is that everything is alluded to, but nothing is clearly seen, nothing is explicitly said.

Everything changes into something else, including love.

For some partners, intimacy is craved, constantly.

If you can’t be with the one you love, love the one you’re with.

Some folks believe that you can be committed to a relationship while maintaining casual sexual contact with other partners.

Others expect monogamy regardless of the distance that separates.

Women are often offered the opportunity.

Men seize the opportunity if the offer is accepted.

Some folks can separate sex from love.

Others cannot.

As to the difficulties between couples outside of my own relationship, I can only speculate.

For Heidi, on a motorcycle, wind caressing her hair through the gaps in her helmet, sun warm upon her face, her mind focused upon the dangers the murderous highways threatened, thoughts of Mumbai could be forgotten for a time.

Dien Chau is a district with many traditional craft villages. 

Some famous craft villages:

  • bronze casting in Yen Thinh hamlet

  • blacksmithing in Nho Lam
  • Van Phan fish sauce
  • tuong singing in Ly Nhan
  • Sand Dunes (Dien Thap): Casting copper, cast iron household appliances, making gongs and items used at worship
  • Nhan Trai (Dien Xuan): Vegetable growing village
  • Phuong Lich (Dien Hoa): Raising silkworms, weaving fabrics, making silk

  • Thanh Bich, Trang Thung: Building boats
  • Dien Ky: Mainly the profession of casting plowshares
  • Nho Lam: Iron ore refining, forging, basket weaving

The craft villages build:

  • mills
  • braid hammocks
  • knitting equipment
  • weaving fabrics
  • knitting baskets
  • carpentry
  • hats

  • Poetry of Dien Chau:

Two Vai shoulder burden
Tomb Da Hiep means hardship and contempt
River Bung flows forever love
Cuong Temple stands an eternal mirror
Hon Ngu sea to the horizon
The bright green fence door in the central region
Listen to the song “Visit Lua Huu Thung”
Abundantly Trong Tao sings along with the countryside
Have a luxuriant exam season
The valedictorian of the Van Khue label is handed down
Fresh fish fills the boat
The kite flute is full of wind, the Quyen bird sings happily

Celebrities include:

  • Heroic soldier of Quang Tri Citadel, Le Ba Duong
    • Author of the poem “Beside the Thach Han River
    • Initiated the festival of releasing lanterns on the Thach Han River on 27 July every year in memory of the soldiers of the Revolutionary Army.
    • He sacrificed himself in the Battle of 81 Days and Nights.

Above: Le Ba Duong (left)

  • Poet Tran Huu Thung
    • Tran Huu Thung (1923 – 1999) was born in Dien Chau, Nghe An. 
    • Joined the Viet Minh in 1944.
    • During the resistance war against the French, he was a cultural officer and propaganda officer and then in charge of the interregional arts and cultural branch. 
    • He began writing poetry and folk songs from that time. 
    • Has the style of a folk poet. 
    • Poetry for him was just a means of work.
    • Wrote to praise victories, popularize policies and reflect the life of resistance farmers. 
    • Simple words, honest feelings, universal. 
    • Was not very interested in what we now call private lyricism
    • He did not talk about himself. 
    • He was not happy about private matters. 
    • Rather, his heart was happy or sad with the luck of the country and the people.

  • Poet-musician Nguyen Trong Tao
    • Nguyen Trong Tao (1947 – 2019) was a poet, musician, journalist, book cover painter, former editor of Tho newspaper, and author of collections of poems and poems such as: 
      • Dong Dao for Adults
      • Nuong Than
      • The World Without Moon
      • The Way of the Stars (The Song of Dong Loc)
      • and the songs
        • Quan Ho village is my hometown
        • The song of the countryside river
        • The eyes of the boat are horizontal

Above: Nguyen Trung Tao

Nguyen Trong Tao was born in 1947 in a Confucian family of Truong Khe village, Dien Hoa commune, Dien Chau district, Nghe An province.

In 1969, he joined the army.

In 1976, he was sent to Hanoi by the General Department of Politics to join the Military Writing Camp and then entered Nguyen Du University of Literature.

He attempted suicide with two handguns shot to his head on 11 November 1981.

Nguyen Trong Tao composed his first poem at the age of 14, composed his first song at the age of 20, published his first collection of poems (Early Morning Love) in 1974.

By 2008, he had published nearly 20 books, including poetry, literature, music, criticism and essays, and had won many literary and artistic awards.

Above: Nguyen Trong Tao

Dien Chau district is considered to be the pearl of the province of Nghe An tourism. 

  • The Temple of Cuong:

In 208 BCE, defeated by Trieu Da, Thuc An Duong Vuong fled with princess My Chau to Cua Hien Beach, Dien Trung commune, Dien Chau district.

The god Kim Quy appeared and said:

The enemy is behind your back.”

He drew his sword to kill My Chau’s daughter and then committed suicide at the foot of Mo Da Mountain. 

The people built a temple there. 

Above: Cuong Temple

Mo Da Mountain stands in the distance like a giant peacock dancing, its wings spread to other mountains, the righteous head is the location of An Duong Vuong Temple, called Cong Temple, by the locals.  

Cuong Temple is built in the shape of a triangle, with three buildings: Upper, Middle and Lower, surrounded by many luxuriant old trees, looking very ancient and sacred. 

The temple is located on National Highway 1A in Dien An commune, about 30 km from Vinh City.

Cuong Temple still has the legendary well where the water is very clear and clean.

Above: Cuong Temple

  • Cua Hien:
    • North of the foot of Mo Da mountain is Cua Hien Beach. 
    • There is a shrine to My Chau. 
    • Cua Hien Beach is a relatively unspoiled beach.
    • There are many rocks jutting out like a sea fish, so it is called Ngu Hai Rock Beach, in which there is a very high, large and flat stone that resembles a chessboard.
      • The locals call it Da Ban Island
    • This is the only area of Nghe An ​​that does not have the hot southwest wind in the summer.

  • Cao Xa Long Cuong:
    • Actually, this is a large oyster field in the territory of two villages of Huong Cai and Tien Ly, extending from the south foot of Mo Da Mountain to Ong Phung River. 
    • The sea waves hit the shells for a long time and piled up, forming high dunes, up to five metres deep. 
    • The Long Cuong Dragon Mound runs long and high near the coast, its length occupies about 2/3 of Dien Chau district.

  • Dien Thanh Beach:
    • A beach located near Dien Chau junction and along National Highway 1, this is a wide beach, with gentle sand and clear blue water. 
    • Dien Thanh beach is about 5 km north of Cuong Cua Hien Temple. 
    • There is a church of the Cao Ba family with the legends of the ancestors who went to the clouds, rode the wind to save seafarers, and led the people around the area to fight the Chinese invaders.

  • Xuan Duong Lake:
    • Xuan Duong Dam (Bara Dam in French after the French built the dam), is a very large lake divided by the mountain ranges of Ru De and Ru Chach and Ru Ba Chang, in Dien Phu commune. 
    • This is the main source of water supply for communes in the south of Dien Chau. 
    • The dam and the water opening and closing system built in the French period is also known as the Column of the House
    • The dam gate is solidly built of green stone located between two mountains in the Ruch and Ru Ba Chang mountain ranges. 
    • During the anti-American resistance war, this area suffered many bombs and bullets. 
    • The US was determined to break the dam, but could not because the dam was protected by two mountains.
    • The remnants of the mountain carry the scars of many bomb craters. 
    • Around the lake are many pine forests and ancient trees that have been kept for many years. 
    • There are many charming caves and ravines that make people’s hearts flutter.

  • Len Hai Vai:
    • Len Hai Vai is also known as Luong Kien Son, because standing from afar the mountain looks like a brave man. 
    • Lord Trinh Tinh Vuong called this mountain Maitreya
    • In the mountain there are many caves.
    • Today, Hai Vai Cave still retains its ancient features and is associated with many historical events.

  • There is a legend that the mandarin Khanh Ly Hau Nguyen Trung Y, became an official of the Le Dynasty. 
    • When Gia Long ascended the throne, he did not obey him, returning to Len Hai Vai to teach in a cave. 
    • Many of his students became talented.
    • Later that cave was called Than Dong Cave.

  • Bung Giang Thu Nguyet:
    • Bung River originates from a lagoon in Van Hoi commune that flows to Phung Xa village, gradually widening to form a river. 
    • In the autumn, the moon is bright, the river surface is calm, the light shines on the surface of the water, forming thousands of sparkling silver trays, erotic.

  • Church of the Vu Dai Ton family in Dong Xuong village:
    • Recognized as a cultural and historical relic in 2013.
    • It is the place where the governor Tham Dung Nghia served the General Vu Trung Luong and 11 dukes of the family.

  • The Nha Le River is an ancient waterway, opened during the reign of King Le Dai Hanh, with the purpose of transporting military supplies from the capital Hoa Lu to the foot of the Deo Ngang border.

  • Co Am Pagoda was built in the mid 15th century. 
    • Initially, there was only a small temple for people to worship, so it was called Son Am Tu
    • At the end of the Later Le Dynasty, the people moved the pagoda to the foot of the mountain and renamed it Huong Phuc Tu
    • However, during that time, Dien Minh village faced many inexplicable spiritual risks, so in the reign of King Minh Mang XI, the pagoda was moved to its old location with the name Co Am Tu as it is today.

So many legends unknown to those who speed by.

For stories take time to be told.

And time and money are precious commodities that those who travel dare not waste.

One does not hop on a bus, take the train or ride a motorcycle to travel slow.

Though a motorcyclist sees far more than those travellers boxed inside an automobile, bus or train, nonetheless, speed kills perception.

The need for constant caution does not allow the mind to wander, to gather wool, to contemplate in silence the wonders of the world that surround the traveller.

But, in fairness, the world is a vast place to explore and few (if any) have unlimited supplies of time and money at their disposal.

I cannot condemn Heidi for opting to travel by motorbike, for certainly the feel of the open air upon her face and the purr of the motor and the liberty away from bus and train schedules, the freedom to sit upon a moving vehicle without having to care about your interactions with others inside the same enclosed space, to be outdoors without having to expend as much energy and time that bicycling or hiking require, is certainly an attractive way to travel.

I am reminded of the 1995 film Sabrina (with Harrison Ford, Greg Kinnear and Julia Ormond):

Sabrina: [laughs to herself] It’s an incredible airplane – it’s beautiful. I’ve never seen anything like it.

Linus Larrabee: Ah, yes.

[returns to reading his work papers]

Sabrina: Don’t you ever look out the window?

Linus Larrabee: When do I have time?

Sabrina: What happened to all that time we saved taking the helicopter?

Linus Larrabee: [lightheartedly] I’m storing it up.

Sabrina: [seriously] No, you’re not.

Above: Sabrina Fairchild (Julia Ormond) and Linus Larrabee (Harrison Ford), Sabrina (1995)

Let me look myself in the mirror as I write these words.

Though I might have travelled differently than Heidi did – I have never been comfortable with motorcycles or with the stress of driving any vehicle – I can in no way say for certain whether I would have known at the time of her travels to linger in the places Heidi passed by.

I cannot fault her for focusing on her daily destinations, for such is the consequence of wheels beneath us:

The destination – to arrive alive – invariably takes precedence over the potential beauty and experience of the journey itself.

I will simply say that it is a pity that life always has an expiry date, that our lives are generally restricted to the time and money we possess, that all that we could see we cannot because of these limitations.

Above: Wyatt (Peter Fonda) and Billy (Dennis Hopper), Easy Rider (1969)

Of course, another issue is language.

Legends are best revealed in the language from whence they were created.

The Old Testament, especially the first five books (Genesis, Exodus, Leviticus, Numbers and Deuteronomy), is far more enriching a read if read in the original Hebrew.

Above: The Malmesbury Bible

The Qu’ran is far more beautiful in its original Arabic than in any other translation available today.

Above: The Qu’ran

So too, perhaps, the literature and legends of Vietnam can only be understood and fully loved if approached in the Vietnamese language.

Still just the hint of the legends that lie on the road between Ninh Binh to Vinh leave me with the longing to create stories based on those legends.

Above: Ninh Binh City

Above: Images of Vinh

So many questions:

  • What were the “many inexplicable spiritual risks” that Co Am Pagoda faced?
  • What would compel a mandarin to go live and teach in a cave?
  • How and why did the Cao Bo family ancestors do what they did?
  • Why does the hot southwest wind not blow upon Cua Hien Beach?
  • What and when was the Battle of 81 Days and Nights?
  • Beyond the legends, what kind of people were Trieu Da, An Duong Vuong, and, especially, My Chau?

I am a troubled man, much like the Qin army, “stationed in useless land, can’t advance, can’t withdraw“.

So many stories lie beneath the legends.

So much that needs to be told.

If only I had the time…..

Heidi and her travelling companion did not have the time to research, to reflect, to rest, to relax.

Get to Vinh, find the hotel, then explore.

Priorities, man.

But let me not paint a picture black of her experience, for the open road is a powerful thing, seductive, sensual, much like the woman Heidi herself.

Instead, think on the freedom of the highway, of being not tied to schedules of others, of being Queen of her own fate.

Not knowing about Dien Chau she needed not care about Dien Chau.

Dien Chau:

Just another name upon just another signpost.

She may never know the legends of which I write, but a highway is like that.

It is merely a ribbon of road, a way between where you were and where you would like to be.

It has no conscience nor consciousness, no memory nor remorse.

It simply is.

Pickin’ up the pieces of my sweet shattered dream
I wonder how the old folks are tonight
Her name was Ann and I’ll be damned if I recall her face
She left me not knowin’ what to do


Carefree highway, let me slip away on you
Carefree highway, you seen better days
The mornin’ after blues from my head down to my shoes


Carefree highway, let me slip away
Slip away on you


Turnin’ back the pages to the times I love best
I wonder if she’ll ever do the same
Now the thing that I call livin’ is just bein’ satisfied
With knowin’ I got no one left to blame


Carefree highway, got ta see you my old flame
Carefree highway, you seen better days
The mornin’ after blues from my head down to my shoes


Carefree highway, let me slip away
Slip away on you


Searchin’ through the fragments of my dream-shattered sleep
I wonder if the years have closed her mind
I guess it must be wanderlust or tryin’ to get free
From the good old faithful feelin’ we once knew


Carefree highway, let me slip away on you
Carefree highway, you seen better days
The mornin’ after blues from my head down to my shoes


Carefree highway, let me slip away
Slip away on you
Let me slip away on you


Carefree highway, got ta see you my old flame
Carefree highway, you seen better days
The mornin’ after blues from my head down to my shoes

Carefree highway, let me slip away
Slip away on you

Yesterday, her own and that of the nation she is travelling through, are whispers from the past.

Down the road is a potential promise.

Get your motor runnin’
Head out on the highway
Looking for adventure
In whatever comes our way

Yeah, darlin’ gonna make it happen
Take the world in a love embrace
Fire all of your guns at once
And explode into space

I like smoke and lightnin’
Heavy metal thunder
Racing with the wind
And the feeling that I’m under

Yeah, darlin’ gonna make it happen
Take the world in a love embrace
Fire all of your guns at once
And explode into space

Like a true nature’s child
We were born
Born to be wild
We can climb so high
I never wanna die

Born to be wild
Born to be wild

Get your motor runnin’
Head out on the highway
Looking for adventure
In whatever comes our way

Yeah, darlin’ gonna make it happen
Take the world in a love embrace
Fire all of your guns at once
And explode into space

Like a true nature’s child
We were born
Born to be wild
We can climb so high
I never wanna die

Born to be wild
Born to be wild

Vinh awaits with museums and temples and monuments, with a river and a park.

Maybe we will find legends waiting for us there.

And maybe we will make them our own.

Above: Vinh

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Ivo Andric, Signs by the Roadside / Stephen Blake, Loving Your Long Distance Relationship / Gordon Lightfoot, Carefree Highway / Francine Prose, Reading like a Writer / Linda Ronstadt, Blue Bayou / Steppenwolf, Born to Be Wild

aka Canada Slim and the two Georges

Eskişehir, Turkey, Sunday 5 June 2022

I don’t know if companies still do this, but, once a time, some corporations took cultural awareness so seriously that they put employees into a crash course of overseas cultural immersion.

AT & T, for instance, encouraged and paid for the whole family of an executive on the way to a foreign assignment to enroll in classes given by experts in the mores and manners of other lands.

Among the areas that cry out loudest for international understanding are how to say people’s names.

At the US State Department, foreign names are almost as crucial as foreign policy.

Roger Axtel, the author of Do’s and Taboos Around the World, tells a story of a social secretary to a former Secretary of State who recalled that even in the relatively unselfconscious 1950s, she put herself through a rigorous rehearsal of names before every affair of state.

Of all the challenges, she said, the ambassador from what was then Ceylon (today’s Sri Lanka) was the toughest.

After days of practising “Ambassador Notowidigeo“, she was informed that a new man had the job – and was on his way to be received.

You would be surprised how fast you can memorize Sastroamidjojo when you have to.

Above: Flag of Sri Lanka

The first transaction between even ordinary citizens – and the first chance to make an impression for better or worse – is an exchange of names.

In Canada there usually is not very much to get wrong.

And even if you do, is it really so horrific?

Above: Flag of Canada

Not so elsewhere.

Especially in the Eastern Hemisphere, where name frequently denotes social rank or family status, a mistake frequently denotes social rank or family status.

A mistake can be taken as an outright insult.

So can switching to a given name without the other person’s permission, even when you think the situation calls for it.

What would you like me to call you?” is always the opening line of one overseas deputy director for an international telecommunications corporation.

Better to ask several times than to get it wrong.

Even then, I err on the side of formality until asked to ‘Call me Joe’.

Another frequent traveller insists his company provide him with a list of key people he will meet, country by country, surnames underlined, to be memorized on the flight over.

Take Latin America.

Most people’s names are a combination of the father’s and mother’s, with only the father’s name used in conversation.

In the Spanish-speaking countries the father’s name comes first.

Hence, Carlos Mendoza-Miller is called Mr. Mendoza.

Above: Latin America (in green)

But in Portuguese-speaking Brazil it is the other way around, with the mother’s name first, as in Carlos Miller-Mendoza or Mr. Miller.

Above: Flag of Brazil

In the Orient, the Chinese system of surname first, given name last does not always apply.

Above: Modern Asia (1796)

The Taiwanese, many of whom were educated in missionary schools, often have a Christian first name, which comes before any of the others – as in Tommy Ho Chin, who should be called Mr. Ho or, to his friends, Tommy Ho.

Also, given names are often officially changed to initials, so a Y.Y. Lang is Y.Y.

Never mind what it stands for.

Above: Flag of Taiwan

In Korea, which of a man’s names takes a Mr. is determined by whether he is his father’s first or second son.

Above: Flag of South Korea

Although in Thailand names run backwards, Chinese style, the Mr. is put with the given name.

To a Thai it is just as important to be called by his given name as it is for a Japanese to be addressed by his surname.

Above: Flag of Thailand

With the Japanese you can, in a very friendly relationship, respond to his using your first name by dropping the Mr. and adding san to his last name, as in Ishikawa-san.

Above: Flag of Japan

In most of the European Union, first names are never used without invitation and that usually comes only after long association.

Those with academic titles and degrees expect you to use them as a sign of respect.

Above: Flag of the European Union

In the Czech Republic, when greeting a person with a professional title, such as doctor or professor, always use the titles before the surname.

Above: Flag of the Czech Republic

In the UK, most honorary titles are used, even among familiar acquaintances, but it is wise to first hear how others address a person.

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

In Germany, respect titles (Doktor) and never jump to a first name basis until invited.

Above: Germany

In Iceland, Icelanders use first names among themselves, but they expect foreigners to use their last name and will use last names when speaking to foreigners.

In many cases they will soon go over to using first names.

The naming system in Iceland is the old Scandinavian system which all the countries once used.

It is a paternal system where the father gives his children his first name as their last name adding -son if the child is a boy and -dóttir if the child is a girl. 

Above: Flag of Iceland

In Israel, titles are even less important than in the US, but, as always, best to err on the side of formality until informality is encouraged.

Above: Flag of Israel

In Italy, all university graduates have a title and they usually expect you to use it.

Above: Flag of Italy

In Poland, first names are used by close friends only.

Above: Flag of Poland

In Romania, first name greetings are appropriate only between close friends.

In more formal settings use a person’s title and surname.

Above: Flag of Romania

In Algeria, visitors are always addressed by their title and last names.

Professional titles are widely used.

Above: Flag of Algeria

Visitors to Iran should address their hosts by their last name or by their academic rank or title.

Above: Flag of Iran

Use the last name and title when addressing a Pakistani.

Above: Flag of Pakistan

Confused yet?

The safest course is to simply ask.

Above: Led Zeppelin song “Dazed and Confused” EP

King Henry VIII of England (1491 – 1547) ordered that marital births be recorded under the surname of the father.

In England and cultures derived from there, there has long been a tradition for a woman to change her surname upon marriage from her birth name to her husband’s family name.

In the Middle Ages, when a man from a lower-status family married an only daughter from a higher-status family, he would often adopt the wife’s family name.

In the 18th and 19th centuries in Britain, bequests were sometimes made contingent upon a man’s changing (or hyphenating) his family name, so that the name of the testator (name on the last will and testament) continued.

Above: King Henry VIII of England

The United States followed the naming customs and practices of English common law and traditions until recent times.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

Women who keep their own surname after marriage may do so for a number of reasons:

  • They see no reason to change their name, much like men often see no reason to change theirs.
  • Objection to the one-sidedness of this tradition.
  • Being the last member of their family with that surname.
  • To avoid the hassle of paperwork related to their change of name.
  • Wishing to retain their identity.
  • Preferring their last name to their spouse’s last name.
  • To avoid professional ramifications.

Above: Portrait of Charlotte du Val d’Ognes by Marie-Denise Villers (1801), depicts a feminine spirit.

Personally at the time when I married I saw no reason against either keeping my family surname or adopting my wife’s.

Hers is a German surname and perhaps a German surname might have made my adjustment to life in Germany easier.

The opposite side of this question was whether or not a German surname was truly fitting a native speaker of English.

Above: “A complete word“ – “The Awful German Language” in Mark Twain’s A Tramp Abroad

As for my wife she felt the medical profession in Germany (and later Switzerland) tended to be of a conservative nature so she decided to adopt mine.

I am certainly convinced that she can bring as much, or possibly more, honour to the name as I could!

Above: The clan tartan

But, yes, name changes are a hassle of documentation (and cost).

I found this out for myself when I discovered that my biological parents had never bothered to arrange a birth certificate for me when I was born.

Mere physicality of a corporeal form is not sufficient to prove identity these days while paperwork can conjure identity into existence.

When did a document matter more than the person bearing the document?

The first known instance in the United States of a woman insisting on the use of her birth name was that of Lucy Stone in 1855.

Above: Lucy Stone (1818 – 1893)

And since then there has been a general increase in the rate of women using their birth name.

Beginning in the latter half of the 20th century, traditional naming practices writes one commentator, were recognized as “coming into conflict with current sensitivities about children’s and women’s rights“.

Those changes accelerated a shift away from the interests of the parents to a focus on the best interests of the child.

The law in this area continues to evolve today mainly in the context of paternity and custody actions.

Naming conventions in the US have gone through periods of flux, however, and the 1990s saw a decline in the percentage of name retention among women.

As of 2006, more than 80% of American women adopted the husband’s family name after marriage.

It is rare but not unknown for an English-speaking man to take his wife’s family name, whether for personal reasons or as a matter of tradition (such as among matrilineal Canadian aboriginal groups, such as the Haida and Gitxsan).

Above: Flag of the Haida Nation

Above: Flag of the Gitxsan Nation

Upon marriage to a woman, men in the United States can change their surnames to that of their wives, or adopt a combination of both names with the federal government, through the Social Security Administration.

Men may face difficulty doing so on the state level in some states.

It is exceedingly rare but it does occur in the United States, where a married couple may choose an entirely new last name by going through a legal change of name.

As an alternative, both spouses may adopt a double-barrelled name.

For instance, when John Smith and Mary Jones marry each other, they may become known as “John Smith-Jones” and “Mary Smith-Jones“.

A spouse may also opt to use their birth name as a middle name, and e.g. become known as “Mary Jones Smith“.

An additional option, although rarely practiced, is the adoption of the last name derived from a blend of the prior names, such as “Simones“, which also requires a legal name change.

Some couples keep their own last names but give their children hyphenated or combined surnames.

In 1979, the United Nations adopted the Convention on the Elimination of All Forms of Discrimination Against Women (“CEDAW”), which declared in effect that women and men, and specifically wife and husband, shall have the same rights to choose a “family name”, as well as a profession and an occupation.

Above: Flag of the United Nations

In some places, civil rights lawsuits or constitutional amendments changed the law so that men could also easily change their married names (e.g., in British Columbia and California). 

Above: Flag of British Columbia

Above: Flag of California

Québec law permits neither spouse to change surnames, but their children can have hyphenated surnames where one of the parent’s surnames can be dropped once the children have reached adulthood.

Above: Flag of Québec

In France, until 1 January 2005, children were required by law to take the surname of their father.

Article 311-21 of the French Civil Code now permits parents to give their children the family name of either their father, mother, or hyphenation of both – although no more than two names can be hyphenated.

In cases of disagreement, both names are used in alphabetical order.

Above: Flag of France

This brought France into line with a 1978 declaration by the Council of Europe requiring member governments to take measures to adopt equality of rights in the transmission of family names, a measure that was echoed by the United Nations in 1979.

Similar measures were adopted by Germany (1976), Sweden (1982), Denmark (1983), and Spain (1999).

The European Community has been active in eliminating gender discrimination.

Several cases concerning discrimination in family names have reached the courts. 

Burghartz v. Switzerland challenged the lack of an option for husbands to add the wife’s surname to his surname, which they had chosen as the family name when this option was available for women.

Losonci Rose and Rose v. Switzerland challenged a prohibition on foreign men married to Swiss women keeping their surname if this option was provided in their national law, an option available to women. 

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Ünal Tekeli v. Turkey challenged prohibitions on women using their surname as the family name, an option only available to men.

Since 2014, women in Turkey are allowed to keep their birth names alone for their whole life instead of using their husbands’ names. 

Previously, the Turkish Code of Civil Law, Article 187, required a married woman to use her husband’s surname; or else to use her birth name in front of her husband’s name by giving a written application to the marriage officer or the civil registry office.

In 2014, the Constitutional Court ruled that prohibiting married women from retaining only maiden names is a violation of their rights.

The Court found all these laws to be in violation of the Convention.

Above: Flag of Turkey

From 1945 to 2021 in the Czech Republic women by law had to use family names with the ending -ová behind the name of their father or husband (so-called přechýlení).

This was seen as discriminatory by a part of the public.

Since 1 January 2022, Czech women can decide for themselves whether they want to use the feminine or masculine form of their family name. 

Above: Coat of arms of the Czech Republic

Here is where the waters get murky for me.

Wasn’t the point of a woman adopting her husband’s surname to have protection (both physical and financial) by his name and as well to affirm his commitment to the offspring his fertilization produced?

She is under his protection and their offspring is his responsibility?

Doesn’t the use of his name assure him of her commitment to him as well as assure her of his protection and support of her?

Above: The Wedding, Edmund Blair Leighton (1920)

Middlemarch has been published after 150 years under George Eliot‘s real name, Mary Ann Evans, alongside 24 other historic works by women whose writing had only been ever previously been in print under their male pseudonyms.

Evans adopted the pen name of George Eliot in the mid-19th century, in order to ensure her works were taken seriously.

Middlemarch, originally published in eight parts in 1871 – 1872, had never been released under her real name prior to 2020.

Evans said she was “resolute in preserving her incognito, having observed that a nom de plume secures all the advantages without the disagreeables of reputation“, while her partner George Lewes said “the object of anonymity was to get the book judged on its own merits and not prejudged as the work of a woman or of a particular woman“.

Above: Mary Ann Evans (aka George Eliot) (1819 – 1880)

Finally, the work voted the greatest British novel of all time came out in 2020 as Evan’s as part of the Reclaim Her Name campaign from the women’s prize for fiction and prize sponsor Baileys to mark the 25th anniversary of the award.

Some of the books, like Middlemarch, are well-known, including A Phantom Lover, a ghost story from Violet Paget who wrote as Vernon Lee, and Indiana, a romance from Amantine Aurore Dupin, the 19th century author better known as George Sand.

Above: Violet Paget (aka Vernon Lee) (1856 – 1935)

Above: Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin (aka George Sand) (1804 – 1876)

Others are being brought to the forefront after forgotten decades, such as Keynotes, a collection of feminist short stories from 1893 that includes open discussions of women’s sexuality.

The stories were written by Mary Bright, who wrote as George Egerton, in 1893.

She would say of them that:

I realized that in literature, everything had been better done by man than woman could hope to emulate.

There was one small plot for her to tell: the terra incognita of herself, as she knew herself to be, not as man liked to imagine her.

Above: Mary Bright (aka George Egerton) (1859 – 1945)

Frances Rollin Whipper published The Life of Martin R. Delaney in 1868 under the pseudonym Frank A. Rollin.

She was the first African American to publish a biography.

Above: Frances Ann Rollin Whipper (aka Frank A. Rollin) (1845 – 1901)

Ann Petry, who wrote as Arnold Petri, was the first African-American woman to sell more than 1 million copies of a book and joins the list with “Marie of the Cabin Club“, her first published short story, from 1939.

Above: Ann Petry (aka Arnold Petri) (1908 – 1997)

The Reclaim Her Name collection is available to download as e-books for free.

Baileys hopes the project will give the authors “the visibility and credit they deserve” as well as encourage “new and important conversations around the continuing challenges women face in publishing and authors’ many reasons for using a pseudonym.

Again I am given pause to ponder.

Does a name enhance (or detract from) the quality of a person or the product which they produce?

Does it really matter whether a George or a Mary wrote Middlemarch?

Did the name of George harm the quality of the work?

Does the name of Mary improve the quality of the work?

Can a man write like a woman or a woman like a man?

Is a man less right when he writes of women because he is not a woman himself?

Are we to assume that a man is unqualified to write about women without possessing a uterus or a woman ill equipped to write of men without possessing male genitalia?

In the final analysis, shouldn’t the quality of the work be of far greater significance than the name of the writer attributed to the work?

pseudonym (from the Ancient Greek for ‘falsely named‘) or alias is a fictitious name that a person or group assumes for a particular purpose, which differs from their original or true name (orthonym).

This also differs from a new name that entirely or legally replaces an individual’s own.

Most pseudonym holders use pseudonyms, because they wish to remain anonymous, but anonymity is difficult to achieve and often fraught with legal issues.

Pseudonyms include: 

  • stage names
  • user names
  • boxing or wrestling ring names
  • pen names
  • nicknames
  • aliases
  • superhero or villain identities
  • code names
  • gamer identifications
  • regnal names of emperors, popes, and other monarchs

Historically, they have sometimes taken the form of anagrams, Graecisms and Latinisations, although there may be many other methods of choosing a pseudonym.

Pseudonyms should not be confused with new names that replace old ones and become the individual’s full-time name.

Pseudonyms are “part-time” names, used only in certain contexts – to provide a more clear-cut separation between one’s private and professional lives, to showcase or enhance a particular persona, or to hide an individual’s real identity, as with writers’ pen names, graffiti artists’ tags, resistance fighters or terrorists’ noms de guerre, and computer hackers’ handles. 

Actors, voice-over artists, musicians, and other performers sometimes use stage names, for example, to better channel a relevant energy, gain a greater sense of security and comfort via privacy, more easily avoid troublesome fans/”stalkers“, or to mask their ethnic backgrounds.

In some cases, pseudonyms are adopted because they are part of a cultural or organisational tradition:

For example, devotional names used by members of some religious institutes, and “cadre names” used by Communist Party leaders such as Trotsky and Lenin.

Above: Leon Trotsky (1879 – 1940)

Above: Vladimir Lenin (1870 – 1924)

A pseudonym may also be used for personal reasons:

For example, an individual may prefer to be called or known by a name that differs from their given or legal name, but is not ready to take the numerous steps to get their name legally changed.

Or an individual may simply feel that the context and content of an exchange offer no reason, legal or otherwise, to provide their given or legal name.

collective name or collective pseudonym is one shared by two or more persons, for example, the co-authors of a work, such as Carolyn Keene, Erin Hunter, Ellery Queen, Nicholas Bourbaki or James S.A. Corey.

Sometimes people change their names in such a manner that the new name becomes permanent and is used by all who know the person.

This is not an alias or pseudonym, but in fact a new name.

In many countries, including common law countries, a name change can be ratified by a court and become a person’s new legal name.

For example, in the 1960s, civil rights campaigner Malcolm X, originally known as Malcolm Little, changed his surname to “X” to represent his unknown African ancestral name that had been lost when his ancestors were brought to North America as slaves.

He then changed his name again to Malik El-Shabazz when he converted to Islam.

Above: Malcolm X (1925 – 1965)

Likewise some Jews adopted Hebrew family names upon immigrating to Israel, dropping surnames that had been in their families for generations.

Above: Flag of Israel

The politician David Ben-Gurion, for example, was born David Grün in Poland.

He adopted his Hebrew name in 1910 when he published his first article in a Zionist journal in Jerusalem.

Above: David Ben-Gurion (1886 – 1973)

Businesspersons of ethnic minorities in some parts of the world are sometimes advised by an employer to use a pseudonym that is common or acceptable in that area when conducting business, to overcome racial or religious bias.

Criminals may use aliases, fictitious business names and dummy corporations (corporate shells) to hide their identity, or to impersonate other persons or entities in order to commit fraud.

Aliases and fictitious business names used for dummy corporations may become so complex that, in the words of the Washington Post, “getting to the truth requires a walk down a bizarre labyrinth” and multiple government agencies may become involved to uncover the truth.

Giving a false name to a law enforcement officer is a crime in many jurisdictions.

A pen name, or nom de plume, is a pseudonym (sometimes a particular form of the real name) adopted by an author (or on the author’s behalf by their publishers).

Although the term is most frequently used today with regard to identity and the Internet, the concept of pseudonymity has a long history.

In ancient literature it was common to write in the name of a famous person, not for concealment or with any intention of deceit.

In the New Testament, the second letter of Peter is probably such.

Above: St. Peter (d. 68 CE) holding the keys to Heaven

A more modern example is all of The Federalist Papers, which were signed by Publius, a pseudonym representing the trio of James Madison, Alexander Hamilton and John Jay.

Above: James Madison (1751 – 1836)

Above: Alexander Hamilton (1755 – 1804)

Above: John Jay (1745 – 1829)

The papers were written partially in response to several Anti-Federalist Papers, also written under pseudonyms.

As a result of this pseudonymity, historians know that the papers were written by Madison, Hamilton, and Jay, but have not been able to discern with complete accuracy which of the three authored a few of the papers.

There are also examples of modern politicians and high-ranking bureaucrats writing under pseudonyms.

Some female authors used male pen names, in particular in the 19th century, when writing was a male-dominated profession.

The Brontë sisters used pen names for their early work, so as not to reveal their gender and so that local residents would not know that the books related to people of the neighbourhood.

The Brontës used their neighbours as inspiration for characters in many of their books. 

Anne Brontë’s The Tenant of Wildfell Hall (1848) was published under the name Acton Bell.

Above: Anne Brontë (1820 – 1849)

Charlotte Brontë used the name Currer Bell for Jane Eyre (1847) and Shirley (1849).

Above: Charlotte Brontë (1816 – 1855)

Emily Brontë adopted Ellis Bell as cover for Wuthering Heights (1847).

Above: Emily Brontë (1818 – 1848)

Other examples from the 19th century are the novelist Mary Ann Evans (George Eliot) and the French writer Amandine Aurore Lucile Dupin (George Sand).

Pseudonyms may also be used due to cultural or organization or political prejudices.

On the other hand, some 20th and 21st century male romance novelists have used female pen names. 

A few examples are Brindle Chase, Peter O’Donnell (Madeline Brent), Christopher Wood (Penny Sutton / Rosie Dixon), and Hugh C. Rae (Jessica Sterling).

Above: Christopher Wood (1935 – 2015)

Above: Hugh C. Rae (1935 – 2014)

A pen name may be used if a writer’s real name is likely to be confused with the name of another writer or notable individual, or if the real name is deemed unsuitable.

Authors who write both fiction and non-fiction, or in different genres, may use different pen names to avoid confusing their readers.

For example, the romance writer Nora Roberts writes mystery novels under the name J.D. Robb.

Above: Nora Roberts

In some cases, an author may become better known by his pen name than his real name.

Some famous examples of that include Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain), Eric Blair (George Orwell) and Theodor Geisel, better known as Dr. Seuss.

Above: Samuel Clemens (aka Mark Twain) (1835 – 1910)

Above: Eric Arthur Blair (aka George Orwell) (1903 – 1950)

Above: Theodore Geisel (aka Dr. Seuss) (1904 – 1991)

The British mathematician Charles Dodgson wrote fantasy novels as Lewis Carroll and mathematical treatises under his own name.

Above: Charles Dodgson (aka Lewis Carroll) (1832 – 1898)

Some authors, such as Harold Robbins, use several literary pseudonyms.

Above: Harold Robbins (1916 – 1997)

Some pen names have been used for long periods, even decades, without the author’s true identity being discovered, as with Elena Ferrante and Torsten Krol.

Joanne Rowling published the Harry Potter series as J. K. Rowling.

Rowling also published the Cormoran Strike series, a series of detective novels, including The Cuckoo’s Calling, under the pseudonym Robert Galbraith.

Above: Joanne Rowling

Winston Churchill wrote as Winston S. Churchill (from his full surname Spencer-Churchill which he did not otherwise use) in an attempt to avoid confusion with an American novelist of the same name.

The attempt was not wholly successful –

The two are still sometimes confused by booksellers.

Above: Winston Churchill (1874 – 1965)

Above: Winston Churchill (1871 – 1947)

A pen name may be used specifically to hide the identity of the author, as with exposé books about espionage or crime, or explicit erotic fiction.

Some prolific authors adopt a pseudonym to disguise the extent of their published output, e. g. Stephen King writing as Richard Bachman.

Above: Stephen King

Co-authors may choose to publish under a collective pseudonym, e. g., P.J. Tracy and Perri O’Shaughnessy, Frederic Dannay and Manfred Lee used the name Ellery Queen as a pen name for their collaborative works and as the name of their main character. 

Asa Earl Carter, a Southern white segregationist affiliated with the KKK, wrote Western books under a fictional Cherokee persona to imply legitimacy and conceal his history.

Above: Asa Earl Carter (1925 – 1979)

Why do authors choose pseudonyms?

It is rarely because they actually hope to stay anonymous forever.”, mused writer and columnist Russell Smith in his review of the Canadian novel Into That Fire by the pseudonymous M. J. Cates.

Above: Russell Smith

A famous case in French literature was Romain Gary.

Already a well-known writer, he started publishing books as Émile Ajar to test whether his new books would be well received on their own merits, without the aid of his established reputation.

They were.

Émile Ajar, like Romain Gary before him, was awarded the prestigious Prix Goncourt by a jury unaware that they were the same person.

Above: Romain Gary (1914 – 1980)

Similarly, TV actor Ronnie Barker submitted comedy material under the name Gerald Wiley.

Above: Ronnie Barker (1929 – 2005)

A collective pseudonym may represent an entire publishing house, or any contributor to a long-running series, especially with juvenile literature.

Examples include:

  • Watty Piper 

  • Victor Appleton

  • Erin Hunter

Erin Hunter is a collective pseudonym used by the authors Victoria Holmes, Kate Cary, Cherith Baldry, Inbali Iserles, Tui T. Sutherland and Rosie Best in the writing of several juvenile fantasy novel series, which focus on animals and their adventures.

Above: Vicky Holmes

Above: Kate Cary

Above: Cherith Baldry

Above: Inbali Iseries

Above: Tui T. Sutherland

Above: Rosie Best

  • Kamiru M. Xhan

Another use of a pseudonym in literature is to present a story as being written by the fictional characters in the story.

The series of novels known as A Series of Unfortunate Events are written by Daniel Handler under the pen name of Lemony Snicket, a character in the series.

This applies also to some of the several 18th-century English and American writers who used the name Fidelia.

Above: Daniel Handler

An anonymity pseudonym or multiple use name is a name used by many different people to protect anonymity.

It is a strategy that has been adopted by many unconnected radical groups and by cultural groups, where the construct of personal identity has been criticized.

This has led to the idea of the “open pop star“.

Pseudonyms and acronyms are often employed in medical research to protect subjects’ identities through a process known as de-identification.

Nicolaus Copernicus put forward his theory of heliocentrism in the manuscript Commentariolus anonymously, in part because of his employment as a law clerk for a church government organization.

Above: Mikołaj Kopernik (aka Nicholaus Copernicus) (1473 – 1543)

Sophie Germain and William Sealy Gosset used pseudonyms to publish their work in the field of mathematics – Germain, to avoid rampant 19th century academic misogyny, and Gosset, to avoid revealing brewing practices of his employer, the Guinness Brewery.

Above: Portrait of Sophie Germain (1776 – 1831)

Above: William Sealy Gosset (1876 – 1937)

Satoshi Nakamoto is a pseudonym of a still unknown author or authors’ group behind a white paper about bitcoin.

In Ancien Régime France, a nom de guerre (“war name“) would be adopted by each new recruit (or assigned to them by the captain of their company) as they enlisted in the French army.

These pseudonyms had an official character and were the predecessor of identification numbers:

Soldiers were identified by their first names, their family names, and their noms de guerre (e. g. Jean Amarault dit Lafidélité).

These pseudonyms were usually related to the soldier’s place of origin (e. g. Jean Deslandes dit Champigny, for a soldier coming from a town named Champigny), or to a particular physical or personal trait (e. g. Antoine Bonnet dit Prettaboire, for a soldier prêt à boire, ready to drink).

In 1716, a nom de guerre was mandatory for every soldier.

Officers did not adopt noms de guerre as they considered them derogatory.

In daily life, these aliases could replace the real family name.

Above: Coat of arms of pre-revolutionary Kingdom of France

Noms de guerre were adopted for security reasons by members of World War II French resistance and Polish resistance.

Above: American officer and French partisan, 1944

Above: Flag of the Polish Underground State (1939 – 1945)

Such pseudonyms are often adopted by military special-forces soldiers, such as members of the SAS and similar units of resistance fighters, terrorists and guerrillas.

This practice hides their identities and may protect their families from reprisals.

It may also be a form of dissociation from domestic life.

Above: Badge of the British Special Air Services

Some well-known men who adopted noms de guerre include:

  • Ilich Ramírez Sánchez (Carlos)

Above: Ilich Ramírez Sánchez (aka Carlos the Jackal)

  • Willy Brandt, Chancellor of West Germany

Above: Willy Brandt (1913 – 1992)

  • Subcomandate Marcos, spokesman of the Zapatista Army of National Liberation (EZLN)

Above: Rafael Sebastián Guillén Vicente (aka Subcomandante Marcos)

Above: Flag of the Zapista Army of National Liberation

During Lehi’s underground fight against the British in Mandatory Palestine, the organization’s commander Yitzchak Shamir (later Prime Minister of Israel) adopted the nom de guerre “Michael“, in honour of Ireland’s Michael Collins.

Above: Logo of the Lehi movement, a historic militant revisionist Zionist movement

Above: Map of Mandatory Palestine (1920 – 1948)

Above: Yitzhak Shamir (1915 – 2012)

Above: Michael Collins (1890 – 1922)

Revolutionaries and resistance leaders, such as Stalin, Golda Meir, Phillippe Leclerc de Hauteclocque and Josip Broz Tito often adopted their noms de guerre as their proper names after the struggle. 

Above: Joseph Stalin (1878 – 1953)

Above: Golda Meir (1898 – 1978)

Above: Philippe François Marie Leclerc de Hauteclocque (1902 – 1947)

Above: Josip Broz Tito (1892 – 1980)

Georgios Grivas, the Greek-Cypriot EOKA militant, adopted the nom de guerre Digenis.

Above: Georgios Grivas (1897 – 1974)

In the French Foreign Legion, recruits can adopt a pseudonym to break with their past lives.

Above: Emblem of the French Foreign Legion

Mercenaries have long used “noms de guerre“, sometimes even multiple identities, depending on the country, conflict, and circumstance.

Some of the most familiar noms de guerre today are the kunya used by Islamic mujahideen.

These take the form of a teknonym, either literal or figurative.

Above: Afghani mujahideen fighters; Durand Line border, 1985

Individuals using a computer online may adopt or be required to use a form of pseudonym known as a “handle” (a term deriving from CB slang), “user name“, “login name“, “avatar“, or, sometimes, “screen name”, “gamertag” “IGN (IGame (Nick)Name)” or “nickname“.

Above: Citizens band radio

Above: Jo Kay, an avatar in the game Second Life

On the Internet, pseudonymous remailers use cryptography that achieves persistent pseudonymity, so that two-way communication can be achieved, and reputations can be established, without linking physical identities to their respective pseudonyms. 

Above: Lorenz cipher machine used in WW2 to encrypt communications of the German High Command

Aliasing is the use of multiple names for the same data location.

Above: Logo of the TV series Alias (2001 – 2006)

More sophisticated cryptographic systems, such as anonymous digital credentials, enable users to communicate pseudonymously (i. e., by identifying themselves by means of pseudonyms).

In well-defined abuse cases, a designated authority may be able to revoke the pseudonyms and reveal the individuals’ real identity.

Use of pseudonyms is common among professional e-sports players, despite the fact that many professional games are played on LAN.

Above: Players competing in a League of Legends tournament

Pseudonymity has become an important phenomenon on the Internet and other computer networks.

In computer networks, pseudonyms possess varying degrees of anonymity, ranging from highly linkable public pseudonyms (the link between the pseudonym and a human being is publicly known or easy to discover), potentially linkable non-public pseudonyms (the link is known to system operators but is not publicly disclosed), and unlinkable pseudonyms (the link is not known to system operators and cannot be determined).

For example, a true anonymous remailer enables Internet users to establish unlinkable pseudonyms.

Those that employ non-public pseudonyms (such as the now-defunct Penet remailer) are called pseudonymous remailers.

The Penet remailer (anon.penet.fi) was a pseudonymous remailer operated by Johan “Julf” Helsingius of Finland from 1993 to 1996.

Its initial creation stemmed from an argument in a Finnish newsgroup over whether people should be required to tie their real name to their online communications.

Julf believed that people should not — indeed, could not — be required to do so.

In his own words:

Some people from a university network really argued about if everybody should put their proper name on the messages and everybody should be accountable, so you could actually verify that it is the person who is sending the messages.

And I kept arguing that the Internet just doesn’t work that way, and if somebody actually tries to enforce that, the Internet will always find a solution around it.

And just to prove my point, I spent two days or something cooking up the first version of the server, just to prove a point.

Above: Johan Helsingius

Julf’s remailer worked by receiving an e-mail from a person, stripping away all the technical information that could be used to identify the original source of the e-mail, and then remailing the message to its final destination.

The result provided Internet users with the ability to send e-mail messages and post to Usenet newsgroups without revealing their identities.

In addition, the Penet remailer used a type of “post office box” system in which users could claim their own anonymous e-mail addresses of the form anxxxxx@anon.penet.fi, allowing them to assign pseudonymous identities to their anonymous messages, and to receive messages sent to their (anonymous) e-mail addresses.

While the basic concept was effective, the Penet remailer had several vulnerabilities which threatened the anonymity of its users.

Chief among them was the need to store a list of real e-mail addresses mapped to the corresponding anonymous e-mail addresses on the server.

A potential attacker needed only to access that list to compromise the identities of all of Penet’s users.

The Penet remailer was on two occasions required by the legal system in Finland (the country where the Penet server hardware resided) to turn over the real e-mail address that was mapped to an anonymous e-mail address.

Above: Flag of Finland

Another potential vulnerability was that messages sent to and from the remailer were all sent in cleartext, making it vulnerable to electronic eavesdropping.

Despite its relatively weak security, the Penet remailer was a hugely popular remailer owing to its ease of anonymous account set-up and use compared to more secure but less user-friendly remailers, and had over 700,000 registered users at the time of its shutdown in September 1996.

The continuum of unlinkability can also be seen, in part, on Wikipedia.

Some registered users make no attempt to disguise their real identities (for example, by placing their real name on their user page).

The pseudonym of unregistered users is their IP address, which can, in many cases, easily be linked to them.

Other registered users prefer to remain anonymous, and do not disclose identifying information.

However, in certain cases, Wikipedia’s privacy policy permits system administrators to consult the server logs to determine the IP address, and perhaps the true name, of a registered user.

It is possible, in theory, to create an unlinkable Wikipedia pseudonym by using an open proxy, a Web server that disguises the user’s IP address, but most open proxy addresses are blocked indefinitely due to their frequent use by vandals.

Additionally, Wikipedia’s public record of a user’s interest areas, writing style, and argumentative positions may still establish an identifiable pattern.

System operators (sysops) at sites offering pseudonymity, such as Wikipedia, are not likely to build unlinkability into their systems, as this would render them unable to obtain information about abusive users quickly enough to stop vandalism and other undesirable behaviors.

Law enforcement personnel, fearing an avalanche of illegal behavior, are equally unenthusiastic. 

Still, some users and privacy activists, like the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU), believe that Internet users deserve stronger pseudonymity so that they can protect themselves against identity theft, illegal government surveillance, stalking, and other unwelcome consequences of Internet use (including unintentional disclosures of their personal information and doxing).

Above: Logo of the American Civil Liberties Union

Their views are supported by laws in some nations (such as Canada) that guarantee citizens a right to speak using a pseudonym.

This right does not, however, give citizens the right to demand publication of pseudonymous speech on equipment they do not own.

Above: Coat of arms of Canada

Most Web sites that offer pseudonymity retain information about users.

These sites are often susceptible to unauthorized intrusions into their non-public database systems.

For example, in 2000, a Welsh teenager obtained information about more than 26,000 credit card accounts, including that of Bill Gates.

Above: Bill Gates

In 2003, VISA and MasterCard announced that intruders obtained information about 5.6 million credit cards.

Sites that offer pseudonymity are also vulnerable to confidentiality breaches.

Above: Logo of Mastercard

In a study of a Web dating service and a pseudonymous remailer, University of Cambridge researchers discovered that the systems used by these Web sites to protect user data could be easily compromised, even if the pseudonymous channel is protected by strong encryption.

Typically, the protected pseudonymous channel exists within a broader framework in which multiple vulnerabilities exist.

Pseudonym users should bear in mind that, given the current state of Web security engineering, their true names may be revealed at any time.

Above: Coat of arms of the University of Cambridge, England

Pseudonymity is an important component of the reputation systems found in online auction services (such as eBay), discussion sites (such as Slashdot), and collaborative knowledge development sites (such as Wikipedia).

A pseudonymous user who has acquired a favorable reputation gains the trust of other users.

When users believe that they will be rewarded by acquiring a favourable reputation, they are more likely to behave in accordance with the site’s policies.

If users can obtain new pseudonymous identities freely or at a very low cost, reputation-based systems are vulnerable to whitewashing attacks, also called serial pseudonymity, in which abusive users continuously discard their old identities and acquire new ones in order to escape the consequences of their behavior:

On the Internet, nobody knows that yesterday you were a dog, and therefore should be in the doghouse today.

Users of Internet communities who have been banned only to return with new identities are called sock puppets.

Whitewashing is one specific form of Sybil attack on distributed systems.

The Sybil attack in computer security is an attack wherein a reputation system is subverted by creating multiple identities

The social cost of cheaply discarded pseudonyms is that experienced users lose confidence in new users, and may subject new users to abuse until they establish a good reputation.

System operators may need to remind experienced users that most newcomers are well-intentioned.

Concerns have also been expressed about sock puppets exhausting the supply of easily remembered usernames.

Above: In Internet terms, sock puppets are online identities used for disguised activity by the operator.

In addition a recent research paper demonstrated that people behave in a potentially more aggressive manner when using pseudonyms/nicknames (due to the online distribution effect) as opposed to being completely anonymous.

In contrast, research by the blog comment hosting service Disqus found pseudonymous users contributed the “highest quantity and quality of comments“, where “quality” is based on an aggregate of likes, replies, flags, spam reports, and comment deletions, and found that users trusted pseudonyms and real names equally.

Researchers at the University of Cambridge showed that pseudonymous comments tended to be more substantive and engaged with other users in explanations, justifications, and chains of argument, and less likely to use insults, than either fully anonymous or real name comments.

Proposals have been made to raise the costs of obtaining new identities, such as by charging a small fee or requiring e-mail confirmation.

Academic research has proposed cryptographic methods to pseudonymize social media identities or government-issued identities, to accrue and use anonymous reputation in online forums, or to obtain one-per-person and hence less readily-discardable pseudonyms periodically at physical-world pseudonym parties.

Others point out that Wikipedia’s success is attributable in large measure to its nearly non-existent initial participation costs.

Above: Logo of Wikipedia

People seeking privacy often use pseudonyms to make appointments and reservations.

Those writing to advice columns in newspapers and magazines may use pseudonyms.

Steve Wozniak used a pseudonym when attending the University of California (Berkeley) after co-founding Apple Computer, because “he knew he wouldn’t have time enough to be an A+ student“.

Above: Steve Wozniak

Above: Logo of Apple Inc.

When used by an actor, musician, radio disc jockey, model, or other performer or “show business” personality a pseudonym is called a stage name, or, occasionally, a professional name, or screen name.

Members of a marginalized ethnic or religious group have often adopted stage names, typically changing their surname or entire name to mask their original background.

Stage names are also used to create a more marketable name, as in the case of Creighton Tull Chaney, who adopted the pseudonym Lon Chaney, Jr., a reference to his famous father Lon Chaney, Sr.

Above: Creighton Tull Chaney (aka Lon Chaney Jr.) (1906 – 1973)

Above: Lon Chaney Sr. (1883 – 1930)

Chris Curtis of Deep Purple fame was christened as Christopher Crummey (“crumby” is UK slang for poor quality).

In this and similar cases a stage name is adopted simply to avoid an unfortunate pun.

Above: Chris Curtis (1941 – 2005)

Pseudonyms are also used to comply with the rules of performing arts guilds (Screen Actors Guild (SAG), Writers Guild of America (WGA), AFTRA, etc.), which do not allow performers to use an existing name, in order to avoid confusion.

Above: Logo of the American Federation of Television and Radio Artists of the American Federation of Labor – Congress of Industrial Organizations

For example, these rules required film and television actor Michael Fox to add a middle initial and become Michael J. Fox, to avoid being confused with another actor named Michael Fox.

Above: Michael J. Fox

Above: Michael Fox (1921 – 1996)

This was also true of author and actress Fannie Flagg, who chose this pseudonym.

Her real name, Patricia Neal, being the name of another well-known actress.

Above: Patricia Neal (aka Fannie Flagg)

Above: Patricia Neal (1926 – 2010)

British actor Stewart Granger’s real name was James Stewart.

Above: James Stewart (aka Stewart Granger) (1913 – 1993)

Above: James Stewart (1908 – 1997)

The film-making team of Joel and Ethan Coen, for instance, share credit for editing under the alias Roderick Jaynes.

Above: Joel (right) and Ethan (left) Cohen

Some stage names are used to conceal a person’s identity, such as the pseudonym Alan Smithee, which was used by directors in the Directors Guild of America (DGA) to remove their name from a film they feel was edited or modified beyond their artistic satisfaction.

In theatre, the pseudonyms George or Georgina Spelvin, and Walter Plinge are used to hide the identity of a performer, usually when he or she is “doubling” (playing more than one role in the same play).

Above: Sarah Bernhardt (1844 – 1923) as Hamlet, 1899

David Agnew was a name used by the BBC to conceal the identity of a scriptwriter, such as for the Doctor Who serial “City of Death“, which had three writers, including Douglas Adams, who was at the time of writing the show’s script editor.

Above: Logo of the British Broadcasting Corporation

Above: Lalla Ward (companion Romana) and Tom Baker (the 4th Doctor), Doctor Who, “City of Death“, aired in 4 episodes (29 September – 20 October 1979), written by “David Agnew” (pseudonym for David Fisher, Douglas Adams and Graham Williams)

Above: David Fisher (1929 – 2018)

Above: Douglas Adams (1952 – 2001)

Above: Graham Williams (1945 – 1990)

In another Doctor Who serial, “The Brain of Morbius“, writer Terrance Dicks demanded the removal of his name from the credits saying it could go out under a “bland pseudonym“.

This ended up as Robin Bland.

Above: Stuart Fell (Morbius), Philip Madoc (Dr. Solon) and Tom Baker (the 4th Doctor), Doctor Who, “The Brain of Morbius“, aired in 4 episodes (3 – 24 January 1976), written by “Robin Bland” (Terrance Dicks)

Above: Terrance Dicks (1935 – 2019)

Musicians and singers can use pseudonyms to allow artists to collaborate with artists on other labels while avoiding the need to gain permission from their own labels, such as the artist Jerry Samuels, who made songs under Napoleon XIV.

Above: Jerry Samuels

Rock singer-guitarist George Harrison, for example, played guitar on Cream’s song “Badge” using a pseudonym.

Above: George Harrison (1943 – 2001)

In classical music, some record companies issued recordings under a nom de disque in the 1950s and 1960s to avoid paying royalties.

A number of popular budget LPs of piano music were released under the pseudonym Paul Procopolis.

Another example is that Paul McCartney used his fictional name “Bernerd Webb” for Peter and Gordon’s song “Woman“.

Above: Paul McCartney

Pseudonyms are used as stage names in heavy metal bands, such as: 

  • Tracii Guns in LA Guns

Above: Tracy Richard Irving Ulrich (aka Tracii Guns)

  • Axl Rose and Slash in Guns N’ Roses  

Above: William Bruce Rose Jr. (aka Axl Rose)

Above: Saul Hudson (aka Slash)

  • Mick Mars in Mötley Crüe

Above: Bob Alan Deal (aka Mick Mars)

  • Dimebag Darrell in Pantera  

Above: Darrell Lance Abbott (aka Dimebag Darrell) (1966 – 2004)

  • C.C. Deville in Poison

Above: Bruce Anthony Johannesson (aka CC DeVille)

Some such names have additional meanings, like that of Brian Hugh Warner, more commonly known as Marilyn Manson:

Above: Brian Hugh Warner (aka Marilyn Manson)

Marilyn coming from Marilyn Monroe and Manson from convicted serial killer Charles Manson. 

Above: Norma Jeane Mortenson (aka Marilyn Monroe) (1926 – 1962)

Above: Charles Manson (1934 – 2017)

Jacoby Shaddix of Papa Roach went under the name “Coby Dick” during the Infest era.

He changed back to his birth name when lovehatetragedy was released.

Above: Jacoby Shaddix

David Johansen, front man for the hard rock band New York Dolls, recorded and performed pop and lounge music under the pseudonym Buster Poindexter in the late 1980s and early 1990s.

The music video for Poindexter’s debut single, Hot Hot Hot, opens with a monologue from Johansen where he notes his time with the New York Dolls and explains his desire to create more sophisticated music.

Above: David Johansen

Ross Bagdasarian, Sr., creator of Alvin and the Chipmunks, wrote original songs, arranged and produced the records under his real name, but performed on them as David Seville.

He also wrote songs as Skipper Adams.

Above: Ross Bagdasarian Sr. (aka David Saville) (1919 – 1972)

Danish pop pianist Bent Fabric, whose full name is Bent Fabricius-Bjerre, wrote his biggest instrumental hit “Alley Cat” as Frank Bjorn.

For a time, the musician Prince used an unpronounceable “Love Symbol” as a pseudonym.

(“Prince” is his actual first name rather than a stage name).

Above: Prince Rogers Nelson (1958 – 2016)

He wrote the song “Sugar Walls” for Sheena Easton as “Alexander Nevermind” and “Manic Monday” for the Bangles as “Christopher Tracy“.

(He also produced albums early in his career as “Jamie Starr“.)

Above: Sheena Easton

Above: The Bangles – Susanna Hoffs, Vicki Peterson and Debbi Peterson

Many Italian-American singers have used stage names, as their birth names were difficult to pronounce or considered too ethnic for American tastes.

Singers changing their names included: 

  • Dean Martin (born: Dino Paul Crocetti)

Above: Dean Martin (1917 – 1995)

  • Connie Francis (born: Concetta Franconero)

Above: Connie Francis

  • Frankie Valli (born: Francesco Castelluccio) 

  • Tony Bennett (born: Anthony Benedetto)

Above: Tony Bennett

  • Lady Gaga (born: Stefani Germanotta)

In 2009, the British rock band Feeder briefly changed its name to Renegades so it could play a whole show featuring a set list in which 95% of the songs played were from their forthcoming new album of the same name, with none of their singles included.

Front man Grant Nicholas felt that if they played as Feeder, there would be uproar over him not playing any of the singles, so used the pseudonym as a hint.

A series of small shows were played in 2010, at 250 to 1,000 capacity venues with the plan not to say who the band really are and just announce the shows as if they were a new band.

Above: Feeder

In many cases, hip-hop and rap artists prefer to use pseudonyms that represents some variation of their name, personality, or interests.

Examples include:

  • Iggy Azalea (her stage name is a combination of her dog’s name, Iggy, and her home street in Mullumbimby, Azalea Street)

Above: Amethyst Amelia Kelly (aka Iggy Azalea)

  • Ol’ Dirty Bastard (known under at least six aliases)

Above: Russell Tyrone Jones (1968 – 2004)

  • Diddy (previously known at various times as Puffy, P. Diddy, and Puff Daddy)

Above: Sean Combs

  • Ludacris

Above: Christopher Brian Bridges (aka Ludacris)

  • Flo Rida (whose stage name is a tribute to his home state, Florida)

Above: Tramar Lacel Dillard (aka Flo Rida)

  • British-Jamaican hip-hop artist Stefflon Don (real name: Stephanie Victoria Allen)

Above: Stephanie Victoria Allen (aka Stefflon Don)

  • LL Cool J 

Above: James Todd Smith (aka LL Cool J)

  • Chingy 

Above: Howard Earl Bailey Jr. (aka Chingy)

Black metal artists also adopt pseudonyms, usually symbolizing dark values, such as Nocturno CultoGaahl, Abbath and Silenoz.

Above: Ted Skjellum (aka Nocturno Culto)

Above: Kristian Eivind Espedal (aka Gaahl)

Above: Olve Eikemo (aka Abbath)

In punk and hardcore punk, singers and band members often replace real names with tougher-sounding stage names, such as Sid Vicious (real name: John Simon Ritchie) of the late 1970s band Sex Pistols and “Rat” of the early 1980s band the Varukers and the 2000s re-formation of Discharge.

Above: Sid Vicious (1957 – 1979)

The punk rock band the Ramones had every member take the last name of Ramone.

Henry John Deutschendorf Jr., an American singer-songwriter, used the stage name John Denver.

Above: John Denver (1943 – 1997)

The Australian country musician born Robert Lane changed his name to Tex Morton.

Above: Bust of Tex Morton (1916 – 1983), Bicentennial Park, Tamsworth, New South Wales, Australia

Reginald Kenneth Dwight legally changed his name in 1972 to Elton John.

Above: Elton John

And here are other questions that bother me.

Does a person exist without a name?

Does the lack of a name deny the corporeal existence of a person?

Would Reginald Dwight have been just as successful under his own name rather than the pseudonym Elton John?

I give my Swiss friend, whose globetrotting adventures I occasionally chronicle, the pseudonym of Swiss Miss in the interest of concealing her identity in an age where women need to protect their public persona from unwanted male attention.

I give myself the pseudonym of Canada Slim, for no other reason than I like the nickname that a trio of people assigned me during and after my hitchhiking adventures in the United States in my 20s.

I have nothing to conceal, for the digital presence under my name of Adam Kerr is carefully considered so as not to offend anyone’s sensibilities too often.

I try not to leave myself too vulnerable to the unscrupulous who seek to use my identity for their own profit.

Above: Your humble blogger

That being said there are far more delicious delights in other people’s accounts than could ever be found in those of an ESL teacher in Turkey.

I am not unduly concerned.

Above: Flag of Turkey

The other issue that concerns me is the subtle whitewashing of historical events.

Hear me out.

Is it certainly a good thing to give a woman credit for her accomplishments?

Absolutely.

Was an authoress’ decision to give herself a male pseudonym a legitimate one considering the fear that she might not have gotten published had she used her feminine name?

Perhaps.

Certainly it would have great had the past accepted women more.

But I fight against altering the past because it does not match the sentiments of the present.

This leaves an Orwellian bad taste in my mouth.

The Ministry of Truth controls information: news, entertainment, education, and the arts.

Winston Smith works in the Records Department, “rectifying” historical records to accord with Big Brother’s current pronouncements so that everything the Party says appears to be true.

Above: John Hurt (Winston Smith), Nineteen Eighty-Four (1984)

It is considered impolite, for example, to suggest that the South were traitors to America, that they fought for states’ rights not based on the Constitution rather than the reality of retaining slaves.

Above: Flag of the Confederate States of America (1861 – 1865)

It is unpleasant, but the past is necessarily unpleasant and must be acknowledged as it was and not as we wish it had been.

Otherwise the folly committed has no lessons of wisdom for us in the present.

Without Hiroshima and Nagasaki would the world be less inclined to wage nuclear warfare?

Above: Genbaku Dome (Hiroshima Peace Memorial), Hiroshima, Japan

Without the acknowledgement of the horror of the Holocaust would Israel exist and would Germany have grown as a civilized nation because it accepted responsibility for its deeds so as to never allow such horror to arise again there?

Above: From the Auschwitz Album: Hungarian Jews arriving at Auschwitz II in German-occupied Poland, May 1944. Most were “selected” to go to the gas chambers. Camp prisoners are visible in their striped uniforms. The Auschwitz Album is the only surviving visual evidence of the process leading to mass murder at Auschwitz-Birkenau.

Other countries have committed similar atrocities, but the sins of the father can never be extirpated if they are denied.

But if I say it didn’t happen then I am absolved of responsibility?

Above: Nyamata Memorial Site, Rwanda

Certainly the naming of authors bears no horror in comparison to the Holocaust or nuclear annihilation, but where there is similarity is the willingness to admit that the necessity for women authors to give themselves male names existed and that history must somehow be altered so that it appears that this necessity did not exist, so that the past is more politically correct to present sensibilities.

I honestly don’t care who wrote Middlemarch or Indiana if they are books worth reading.

Let Mary Ann or Amantine be George, if that is how they are recognized and remembered.

We know today whose names hid behind George so why is it now necessary to change the names on the books we recognize more with the name George?

Let the writing stand on its own merits rather than on the perception of value assigned to gender names.

Mary Ann Evans was born in Nuneaton, Warwickshire, England.

She was the third child and daughter of a local mill-owner.

She spelled her name differently at different times:

Mary Anne was the spelling used by her father for the baptismal record and she uses this spelling in her earliest letters.

Within her family, however, it was spelled Mary Ann.

Above: Market Place, Nuneaton, England

In early 1820 the Evans family moved to a house named Griff House, between Nuneaton and Bedworth.

Above: Griff House

The young Evans was a voracious reader and obviously intelligent.

Because she was not considered physically beautiful, Evans was not thought to have much chance of marriage, and this, coupled with her intelligence, led her father to invest in an education not often afforded women.

From ages five to nine, she boarded with her sister Chrissey at Miss Latham’s school in Attleborough, from ages 9 to 13 at Mrs. Wallington’s school in Nuneaton, and from ages 13 to 16 at Miss Franklin’s school in Coventry.

Above: Attleborough Baptist Chapel, Nuneaton

At Mrs. Wallington’s school, she was taught by the evangelical Maria Lewis — to whom her earliest surviving letters are addressed.

In the religious atmosphere of the Misses Franklin’s school, Evans was exposed to a quiet, disciplined belief opposed to evangelicalism.

Above: Nant Glyn School, Coventry

After age 16, Evans had little formal education.

Thanks to her father’s important role on the estate, she was allowed access to the library of Arbury Hall, which greatly aided her self-education and breadth of learning.

Her classical education left its mark.

Above: Arbury Hall, Nuneaton

Christopher Stray has observed that:

George Eliot’s novels draw heavily on Greek literature and her themes are often influenced by Greek tragedy“.

Her frequent visits to the estate also allowed her to contrast the wealth in which the local landowner lived with the lives of the often much poorer people on the estate, and different lives lived in parallel would reappear in many of her works.

The other important early influence in her life was religion.

She was brought up within a low church Anglican family, but at that time the Midlands was an area with a growing number of religious dissenters.

Above: Canterbury Cathedral, England

In 1836, her mother died and Evans (then 16) returned home to act as housekeeper, but she continued correspondence with her tutor Maria Lewis.

When she was 21, her brother Isaac married and took over the family home, so Evans and her father moved to Foleshill near Coventry.

Above: Tower Court and Foleshill Road, Foleshill

The closeness to Coventry society brought new influences, most notably those of Charles and Cara Bray. 

Charles Bray had become rich as a ribbon manufacturer and had used his wealth in the building of schools and in other philanthropic causes.

Above: Charles Bray (1811 – 1884)

Evans, who had been struggling with religious doubts for some time, became intimate friends with the radical, free-thinking Brays, whose “Rosehill” home was a haven for people who held and debated radical views.

The people whom the young woman met at the Brays’ house included Robert Owen, Herbert Spencer, Harriet Martineau and Ralph Waldo Emerson.

Above: Robert Owen (1771 – 1858)

Above: Herbert Spencer (1820 – 1903)

Above: Harriet Martineau (1802 – 1876)

Above: Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803 – 1882)

Through this society Evans was introduced to more liberal and agnostic theologies and to writers such as David Strauss and Ludwig Feuerbach, who cast doubt on the literal truth of Biblical texts.

In fact, her first major literary work was an English translation of Strauss’s Das Leben Jesu kritisch bearbeitet as The Life of Jesus, Critically Examined (1846), which she completed after it had been left incomplete by Elizabeth “Rufa” Brabant, another member of the “Rosehill Circle“.

The Strauss book had caused a sensation in Germany by arguing that the miracles in the New Testament were mythical additions with little basis in fact.

Above: David Strauss (1808 – 1874)

Evans’s translation had a similar effect in England, the Earl of Shaftesbury calling her translation “the most pestilential book ever vomited out of the jaws of hell“.

Later she translated Feuerbach’s The Essence of Christianity (1854).

Above: Ludwig Feuerbach (1804 – 1872)

The ideas in these books would have an effect on her own fiction.

As a product of their friendship, Bray published some of Evans’s own earliest writing, such as reviews, in his newspaper the Coventry Herald and Observer.

As Evans began to question her own religious faith, her father threatened to throw her out of the house, but his threat was not carried out.

Instead, she respectfully attended church and continued to keep house for him until his death in 1849, when she was 30.

Five days after her father’s funeral, she travelled to Switzerland with the Brays.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

She decided to stay on in Geneva alone, living first on the lake at Plongeon (near the present-day United Nations buildings) and then on the second floor of a house owned by her friends François and Juliet d’Albert Durade on the rue de Chanoines (now the rue de la Pelisserie).

She commented happily that “one feels in a downy nest high up in a good old tree“.

Her stay is commemorated by a plaque on the building.

While residing there, she read avidly and took long walks in the beautiful Swiss countryside, which was a great inspiration to her.

François Durade painted her portrait there as well.

Above: Geneva, Switzerland

On her return to England the following year (1850), she moved to London with the intent of becoming a writer, and she began referring to herself as Marian Evans.

She stayed at the house of John Chapman, the radical publisher whom she had met earlier at Rosehill and who had published her Strauss translation.

Above: John Chapman (1821 – 1894)

Chapman had recently purchased the campaigning, left-wing journal The Westminster Review.

Evans became its assistant editor in 1851 after joining just a year earlier.

Evans’s writings for the paper were comments on her views of society and the Victorian way of thinking.

She was sympathetic to the lower classes and criticized organised religion throughout her articles and reviews and commented on contemporary ideas of the time.

Much of this was drawn from her own experiences and knowledge and she used this to critique other ideas and organisations.

This led to her writing being viewed as authentic and wise but not too obviously opinionated.

Evans also focused on the business side of the Review with attempts to change its layout and design.

Although Chapman was officially the editor, it was Evans who did most of the work of producing the journal, contributing many essays and reviews beginning with the January 1852 issue and continuing until the end of her employment at the Review in the first half of 1854.

Eliot sympathized with the 1848 revolutions throughout continental Europe, and even hoped that the Italians would chase the “odious Austrians” out of Lombardy and that “decayed monarchs” would be pensioned off, although she believed a gradual reformist approach to social problems was best for England.

Above: On the barricades on the rue Soufflot, Paris, 25 June 1848, Horace Vernet (1849)

In 1850–51, Evans attended classes in mathematics at the Ladies College in Bedford Square, later known as Bedford College, London.

Above: Bedford College (1849 – 1985)

The philosopher and critic George Henry Lewes met Evans in 1851.

By 1854 they had decided to live together.

Lewes was already married to Agnes Jervis, although in an open marriage.

Above: George Henry Lewes (1817 – 1878)

In addition to the three children they had together, Agnes also had four children by Thornton Leigh Hunt.

Above: Thornton Leigh Hunt (1810 – 1873)

In July 1854, Lewes and Evans travelled to Weimar and Berlin together for the purpose of research.

Above: Weimar, Germany

Above: Berlin, Germany

Before going to Germany, Evans continued her theological work with a translation of Feuerbach’s The Essence of Christianity.

While abroad she wrote essays and worked on her translation of Baruch Spinoza’s Ethics, which she completed in 1856, but which was not published in her lifetime.

Above: Baruch Spinoza (1632 – 1677)

In 2020, Eliot’s translation of Spinoza’s Ethics was finally published by Princeton University Press.

The trip to Germany also served as a honeymoon for Evans and Lewes, who subsequently considered themselves married.

Evans began to refer to Lewes as her husband and to sign her name as Mary Ann Evans Lewes, legally changing her name to Mary Ann Evans Lewes after his death.

It was not so much the adultery itself, but the refusal to conceal the relationship, that was felt to breach the social convention of the time, and attracted so much disapproval.

Above: George Henry Lewes and Mary Ann Evans

While continuing to contribute pieces to the Westminster Review, Evans resolved to become a novelist, and set out a pertinent manifesto in one of her last essays for the Review, “Silly Novels by Lady Novelists“(1856).

The essay criticized the trivial and ridiculous plots of contemporary fiction written by women.

In other essays, she praised the realism of novels that were being written in Europe at the time, an emphasis on realistic storytelling confirmed in her own subsequent fiction.

She also adopted a nom-de-plume, George Eliot.

As she explained to her biographer J. W. Cross, George was Lewes’s forename, and Eliot was “a good mouth-filling, easily pronounced word“.

In 1857, when she was 37 years of age, “The Sad Fortunes of the Reverend Amos Barton“, the first of the three stories included in Scenes of Clerical Life, and the first work of “George Eliot“, was published in Blackwood’s Magazine

The Scenes (published as a 2-volume book in 1858), was well received, and was widely believed to have been written by a country parson, or perhaps the wife of a parson.

Evans’s first complete novel, published in 1859, was Adam Bede

It was an instant success, and prompted yet more intense curiosity as to the author’s identity:

There was even a pretender to the authorship, one Joseph Liggins.

This public interest subsequently led to Marian Evans Lewes’s acknowledgment that it was she who stood behind the pseudonym George Eliot. 

Adam Bede is known for embracing a realist aesthetic inspired by Dutch visual art.

The revelations about Eliot’s private life surprised and shocked many of her admiring readers, but this did not affect her popularity as a novelist.

Her relationship with Lewes afforded her the encouragement and stability she needed to write fiction, but it would be some time before the couple were accepted into polite society.

Acceptance was finally confirmed in 1877 when they were introduced to Princess Louise, the daughter of Queen Victoria.

Above: Princess Louise (1848 – 1939)

The Queen herself was an avid reader of all of Eliot’s novels and was so impressed with Adam Bede that she commissioned the artist Edward Henry Corbould to paint scenes from the book.

Above: Queen Victoria (1819 – 1901)

Above: Edward Henry Corbould (1815 – 1905)

When the American Civil War broke out in 1861, Eliot expressed sympathy for the Union cause, something which historians have attributed to her abolitionist sympathies.

Above: Images of the American Civil War (1861 – 1865)

Above: George Eliot, 1864

In 1868, she supported philosopher Richard Congreve’s protests against governmental policies in Ireland and had a positive view of the growing movement in support of Irish home rule.

Above: Richard Congreve (1818 – 1899)

She was influenced by the writings of John Stuart Mill and read all of his major works as they were published.

In Mill’s Subjection of Women (1869) she judged the second chapter excoriating the laws which oppress married women “excellent“.

She was supportive of Mill’s parliamentary run, but believed that the electorate was unlikely to vote for a philosopher and was surprised when he won.

While Mill served in Parliament, she expressed her agreement with his efforts on behalf of female suffrage, being “inclined to hope for much good from the serious presentation of women’s claims before Parliament“. 

Above: John Stuart Mill (1806 – 1873)

In a letter to John Morley, she declared her support for plans “which held out reasonable promise of tending to establish as far as possible an equivalence of advantage for the two sexes, as to education and the possibilities of free development“, and dismissed appeals to nature in explaining women’s lower status.

Above: John Morley (1838 – 1923)

In 1870, she responded enthusiastically to Lady Amberley’s feminist lecture on the claims of women for education, occupations, equality in marriage, and child custody.

Above: Lady Amberley (1842 – 1874)

After the success of Adam Bede, Eliot continued to write popular novels for the next fifteen years.

Within a year of completing Adam Bede, she finished The Mill on the Floss, dedicating the manuscript: “To my beloved husband, George Henry Lewes, I give this MS. of my third book, written in the sixth year of our life together, at Holly Lodge, South Field, Wandsworth, and finished 21 March 1860.” 

Silas Mariner (1861) and Romola (1863) soon followed, and later Felix Holt, the Radical (1866) and her most acclaimed novel, Middlemarch (1872).

Her last novel was Daniel Deronda, published in 1876, after which she and Lewes moved to Witley, Surrey.

By this time Lewes’s health was failing, and he died two years later, on 30 November 1878.

Eliot spent the next two years editing Lewes’s final work, Life and Mind, for publication.

She found solace and companionship with John Walter Cross, a Scottish commission agent 20 years her junior, whose mother had recently died.

Above: John Walter Cross (1840 – 1924)

On 16 May 1880 Eliot married John Walter Cross and again changed her name, this time to Mary Ann Cross.

While the marriage courted some controversy due to the difference in ages, it pleased her brother Isaac, who had broken off relations with her when she had begun to live with Lewes, and now sent congratulations.

Above: Isaac Evans (1816 – 1890)

While the couple were honeymooning in Venice, Cross, in a reported suicide attempt, jumped from the hotel balcony into the Grand Canal.

Above: Grand Canal, Venice, Italy

He survived, and the newlyweds returned to England.

They moved to a new house in Chelsea, but Eliot fell ill with a throat infection.

This, coupled with the kidney disease with which she had been afflicted for several years, led to her death on 22 December 1880 at the age of 61.

Due to her denial of the Christian faith and her adulterous affair with Lewes, Eliot was not buried in Westminster Abbey.

Above: Westminster Abbey, London, England

She was instead interred in Highgate Cemetery, London, in the area reserved for political and religious dissenters and agnostics, beside the love of her life, George Henry Lewes.

The graves of Karl Marx and her friend Herbert Spencer are nearby.

Above: Karl Marx (1818 – 1883)

In 1980, on the centenary of her death, a memorial stone was established for her in the Poets’ Corner.

Several landmarks in her birthplace of Nuneaton are named in her honour.

Above: George Eliot Bench, Nuneaton

Middlemarch, A Study of Provincial Life is a novel by the English author Mary Anne Evans, who wrote as George Eliot.

Although female authors were published under their own names during her lifetime, she wanted to escape the stereotype of women’s writing being limited to lighthearted romances or other lighter fare not to be taken very seriously.

She also wanted to have her fiction judged separately from her already extensive and widely known work as a translator, editor, and critic.

Another factor in her use of a pen name may have been a desire to shield her private life from public scrutiny, thus avoiding the scandal that would have arisen because of her relationship with the married George Henry Lewes.

It first appeared in eight instalments (volumes) in 1871 and 1872.

Set in Middlemarch, a fictional English Midland town, in 1829 to 1832, it follows distinct, intersecting stories with many characters. 

Issues include the status of women, the nature of marriage, idealism, self-interest, religion, hypocrisy, political reform, and education.

Despite comic elements, Middlemarch uses realism to encompass historical events: the 1832 Reform Act, early railways, and the accession of King William IV.

It looks at medicine of the time and reactionary views in a settled community facing unwelcome change.

Eliot began writing the two pieces that formed the novel in 1869–1870 and completed it in 1871.

Initial reviews were mixed, but it is now seen widely as her best work and one of the great English novels.

Middlemarch was described by the novelist Virginia Woolf as “one of the few English novels written for grown-up people” and by Martin Amis and Julian Barnes as the greatest novel in the English language.

Dorothea Brooke is a 19-year-old orphan, living with her younger sister, Celia, as a ward of her uncle, Mr. Brooke.

Dorothea is an especially pious young woman, whose hobby involves the renovation of buildings belonging to the tenant farmers, although her uncle discourages her.

Dorothea is courted by Sir James Chettam, a young man close to her own age, but she is oblivious to him.

She is attracted instead to the Rev. Edward Casaubon, a 45-year-old scholar.

Dorothea accepts Casaubon‘s offer of marriage, despite her sister’s misgivings.

Chettam is encouraged to turn his attention to Celia, who has developed an interest in him.

Fred and Rosamond Vincy are the eldest children of Middlemarch’s town mayor.

Having never finished university, Fred is widely seen as a failure and a layabout, but allows himself to coast because he is the presumed heir of his childless uncle Mr. Featherstone, a rich but unpleasant man.

Featherstone keeps as a companion a niece of his by marriage, Mary Garth.

Although she is considered plain, Fred is in love with her and wants to marry her.

Dorothea and Casaubon experience the first tensions in their marriage on their honeymoon in Rome, when Dorothea finds that her husband has no interest in involving her in his intellectual pursuits and no real intention of having his copious notes published, which was her chief reason for marrying him.

She meets Will Ladislaw, Casaubon‘s much younger disinherited cousin, whom he supports financially.

Ladislaw begins to feel attracted to Dorothea.

She remains oblivious, but the two become friendly.

Fred becomes deeply in debt and finds himself unable to repay what he owes.

Having asked Mr. Garth, Mary‘s father, to co-sign the debt, he now tells Garth he must forfeit it.

As a result, Mrs. Garth‘s savings from four years of income, held in reserve for the education of her youngest son, are wiped out, as are Mary‘s savings.

As a result, Mr. Garth warns Mary against ever marrying Fred.

Fred comes down with an illness, of which he is cured by Dr. Tertius Lydgate, a newly arrived doctor in Middlemarch.

Lydgate has modern ideas about medicine and sanitation and believes doctors should prescribe, but not themselves dispense medicines.

This draws ire and criticism of many in the town.

He allies himself with Bulstrode, a wealthy, church-going landowner and developer, who wants to build a hospital and clinic that follow Lydgate‘s philosophy, despite the misgivings of Lydgate‘s friend, Farebrother, about Bulstrode‘s integrity.

Lydgate also becomes acquainted with Rosamond Vincy, whose beauty and education go together with shallowness and self-absorption.

Seeking to make a good match, she decides to marry Lydgate, who comes from a wealthy family, and uses Fred‘s sickness as an opportunity to get close to the doctor.

Lydgate initially views their relationship as pure flirtation and backs away from Rosamond after discovering that the town considers them practically engaged.

However, on seeing her a final time, he breaks his resolution and the two become engaged.

Casaubon arrives back from Rome about the same time, only to suffer a heart attack.

Lydgate, brought in to attend him, tells Dorothea it is difficult to pronounce on the nature of Casaubon‘s illness and chances of recovery:

That he may indeed live about 15 years if he takes it easy and ceases his studies, but it is equally possible the disease may develop rapidly, in which case death will be sudden.

As Fred recovers, Mr. Featherstone falls ill.

He reveals on his deathbed that he has made two wills and tries to get Mary to help him destroy one.

Unwilling to be involved in the business, she refuses.

Featherstone dies with both wills still intact.

Featherstone‘s plan had been for £10,000 to go to Fred Vincy, but his estate and fortune instead go to an illegitimate son of his, Joshua Rigg.

Casaubon, in poor health, has grown suspicious of Dorothea‘s goodwill to Ladislaw.

He tries to make Dorothea promise, if he should die, to forever “avoid doing what I should deprecate, and apply yourself to do what I should desire“.

She is hesitant to agree, and he dies before she can reply.

Casaubon‘s will is revealed to contain a provision that, if Dorothea marries Ladislaw, she will lose her inheritance.

The peculiar nature of the condition leads to general suspicion that Ladislaw and Dorothea are lovers, creating awkwardness between the two.

Ladislaw is in love with Dorothea but keeps this secret, having no desire to involve her in scandal or cause her disinheritance.

She meanwhile realises she has romantic feelings for him, but must suppress them.

He remains in Middlemarch, working as a newspaper editor for Mr. Brooke, who is mounting a campaign to run for Parliament on a Reform platform.

Lydgate‘s efforts to please Rosamond soon leave him deeply in debt and he is forced to seek help from Bulstrode.

He is partly sustained in this by a friendship with Camden Farebrother.

Meanwhile, Fred Vincy‘s humiliation at being responsible for Caleb Garth‘s financial setbacks shocks him into reassessing his life.

He resolves to train as a land agent under the forgiving Caleb.

He asks Farebrother to plead his case to Mary Garth, not realizing that Farebrother is also in love with her.

Farebrother does so, thereby sacrificing his own desires for the sake of Mary, who he realises truly loves Fred and is just waiting for him to find his place in the world.

John Raffles, a mysterious man who knows of Bulstrode‘s shady past, appears in Middlemarch, intending to blackmail him.

In his youth, the church-going Bulstrode engaged in questionable financial dealings.

His fortune is founded on his marriage to a wealthy, much older widow.

The widow’s daughter, who should have inherited her mother’s fortune, had run away.

Bulstrode located her but failed to disclose this to the widow, so that he inherited the fortune in lieu of her daughter.

The widow’s daughter had a son, who turns out to be Ladislaw.

On grasping their connection, Bulstrode is consumed with guilt and offers Ladislaw a large sum of money, which Ladislaw refuses as being tainted.

Bulstrode‘s terror of public exposure as a hypocrite leads him to hasten the death of the mortally sick Raffles, while lending a large sum to Lydgate, whom Bulstrode had previously refused to bail out of his debt.

However, the story of Bulstrode‘s misdeeds has already spread.

Bulstrode‘s disgrace engulfs Lydgate:

Knowledge of the loan spreads and he is assumed to be complicit with Bulstrode.

Only Dorothea and Farebrother retain any faith in him, but Lydgate and Rosamond are still encouraged to leave Middlemarch by the general opprobrium.

Disgraced and reviled, Bulstrode‘s one consolation is that his wife stands by him as he too faces exile.

When Mr Brooke‘s election campaign collapses, Ladislaw decides to leave the town and visits Dorothea to say his farewell, but Dorothea has fallen in love with him.

She renounces Casaubon‘s fortune and shocks her family by announcing that she will marry Ladislaw.

At the same time, Fred, having been successful in his new career, marries Mary.

The “Finale” details the ultimate fortunes of the main characters.

Fred and Mary marry and live contentedly with their three sons.

Lydgate operates a successful practice outside Middlemarch and attains a good income, but never finds fulfilment and dies at the age of 50, leaving Rosamond and four children.

After he dies, Rosamond marries a wealthy physician.

Ladislaw engages in public reform, and Dorothea is content as a wife and mother to their two children.

Their son eventually inherits Arthur Brooke‘s estate.

The action of Middlemarch takes place “between September 1829 and May 1832“, or 40 years before its publication in 1872, a gap not so pronounced for it to be regularly labelled as a historical novel.

By comparison, Walter Scott’s Waverley (1814) – often seen as the first major historical novel – takes place some 60 years before it appears.

Above: Walter Scott (1769 – 1830)

Eliot had previously written a more obviously historical novel, Romola (1863), set in 15th-century Florence.

Above: Plaque in Florence on the residence of George Eliot at the time of writing Romola

The critics Kathleen Blake and Michael York Mason argue that there has been insufficient attention given to Middlemarch “as a historical novel that evokes the past in relation to the present“.

The critic Rosemary Ashton notes that the lack of attention to this side of the novel may indicate its merits:

Middlemarch is that very rare thing, a successful historical novel.

In fact, it is so successful that we scarcely think of it in terms of that subgenre of fiction.

For its contemporary readers, the present “was the passage of the Second Reform Act in 1867“, the agitation for the Reform Act of 1832 and its turbulent passage through the two Houses of Parliament, which provide the structure of the novel, would have been seen as the past.

Above: Cartoon of Benjamin Disraeli (1804 – 1881) outpacing William Gladstone (1809 – 1898)

Though rarely categorised as a historical novel, Middlemarch‘s attention to historical detail has been noticed: In an 1873 review, Henry James recognised that Eliot’s “purpose was to be a generous rural historian“.

Elsewhere, Eliot has been seen to adopt “the role of imaginative historian, even scientific investigator in Middlemarch and her narrator as conscious “of the historiographical questions involved in writing a social and political history of provincial life”.

This critic compares the novel to “a work of the ancient Greek historian Herodotus“, who is often described as “the father of history“.

Above: Roman bust of Herodotus (484 – 425 BCE)

The fictional town of Middlemarch, North Loamshire, is probably based on Coventry, where Eliot had lived before moving to London.

Like Coventry, Middlemarch is described as a silk-ribbon manufacturing town.

The subtitle — “A Study of Provincial Life” — has been seen as significant.

One critic views the unity of Middlemarch as achieved through “the fusion of the two senses ofprovincial'”

On the one hand it means geographically “all parts of the country except the capital“.

On the other, a person who is “unsophisticated” or “narrow-minded“.

Above: Modern Coventry, England

Above: Statue of George Eliot, Coventry

Central to Middlemarch is the idea that Dorothea Brooke cannot hope to achieve the heroic stature of a figure like Saint Theresa, for Eliot’s heroine lives at the wrong time, “amidst the conditions of an imperfect social state, in which great feelings will often take the aspect of error, and great faith the aspect of illusion“.

Theresa’s passionate, ideal nature demanded an epic life.

Many a Theresa has been born who found for themselves no epic life wherein there was a constant unfolding of far-resonant action.

Perhaps only a life of mistakes, the offspring of a certain spiritual grandeur ill-matched with the meanness of opportunity.

Perhaps a tragic failure which found no sacred poet and sank unwept into oblivion.

With dim lights and tangled circumstance they tried to shape their thought and deed in noble agreement, but, after all, to common eyes, their struggles seemed mere inconsistency and formlessness.

For these were helped by no coherent social faith and order which could perform the function of knowledge for the ardently willing soul.

Their ardor alternated between a vague ideal and common yearning…..

Some have felt their blundering lives are due to the inconvenient indefiniteness with which the Supreme Power has fashioned natures…..

Here and there is born a Saint Theresa, foundress of nothing, whose loving heartbeats and sobs after an unattained goodness tremble off and are dispersed among hindrances, instead of centring in on some long-recognizable deed.

George Eliot, Middlemarch

Above: Teresa of Ávila (1515 – 1582)

Antigone, a figure from Greek mythology best known from Sophocles’ play, is given in the “Finale” as a further example of a heroic woman.

Above: Antigone in front of the dead Polynices, Nikiforos Lytras, 1865

Above: Bust of Sophocles (497 – 405 BCE), Pushkin Museum, Moscow, Russia

The literary critic Kathleen Blake notes Eliot’s emphasis on St Theresa’s “very concrete accomplishment, the reform of a religious order“, rather than her Christian mysticism.

A frequent criticism by feminist critics is that not only is Dorothea less heroic than Saint Theresa and Antigone, but George Eliot herself.

In response, Ruth Yeazell and Kathleen Blake chide these critics for “expecting literary pictures of a strong woman succeeding in a period [around 1830] that did not make them likely in life“.

Eliot has also been criticized more widely for ending the novel with Dorothea marrying Will Ladislaw, someone so clearly her inferior. 

The novelist Henry James describes Ladislaw as a dilettante who “has not the concentrated fervour essential in the man chosen by so nobly strenuous a heroine“.

Marriage is one of the major themes in Middlemarch.

According to George Steiner, “both principal plots [those of Dorothea and Lydgate] are case studies of unsuccessful marriage“.

This suggests that these “disastrous marriages” leave the lives of Dorothea and Lydgate unfulfilled.

This is arguably more the case with Lydgate than with Dorothea, who gains a second chance through her later marriage to Will Ladislaw, but a favourable interpretation of this marriage depends on the character of Ladislaw himself, whom numerous critics have viewed as Dorothea‘s inferior.

In addition, there is the “meaningless and blissful” marriage of Dorothea‘s sister Celia Brooke to Sir James Chettam, and more significantly Fred Vincy‘s courting of Mary Garth.

In the latter, Mary Garth will not accept Fred until he abandons the Church and settles on a more suitable career.

Above: George Steiner (1929 – 2020)

Here Fred resembles Henry Fielding’s character Tom Jones, both being moulded into a good husband by the love they give to and receive from a woman.

Above: Henry Fielding (1707 – 1754)

Dorothea is a St Theresa, born in the wrong century, in provincial Middlemarch, who mistakes in her idealistic ardor, “a poor dry mummified pedant… as a sort of angel of vocation“.

Middlemarch is in part a Bildungsroman focusing on the psychological or moral growth of the protagonist:

Dorotheablindly gropes forward, making mistakes in her sometimes foolish, often egotistical, but also admirably idealistic attempt to find a role” or vocation that fulfils her nature. 

Lydgate is equally mistaken in his choice of a partner, as his idea of a perfect wife is someone “who can sing and play the piano and provide a soft cushion for her husband to rest after work“.

So he marries Rosamond Vincy, “the woman in the novel who most contrasts with Dorothea“, and thereby “deteriorates from ardent researcher to fashionable doctor in London“.

Middlemarch, according to Henry James, was “at once one of the strongest and one of the weakest of English novels.

Middlemarch is a treasure-house of details, but it is an indifferent whole.”

Among the details, his greatest criticism (“the only eminent failure in the book“) was of the character of Ladislaw, who he felt was an insubstantial hero-figure as against Lydgate.

The scenes between Lydgate and Rosamond he especially praised for their psychological depth – he doubted whether there were any scenes “more powerfully real or intelligent” in all English fiction.

Above: Henry James (1843 – 1916)

Thérèse Bentzon, for the Revue des deux Mondes, was critical of Middlemarch.

Although finding merit in certain scenes and qualities, she faulted its structure as “made up of a succession of unconnected chapters, following each other at random.

The final effect is one of an incoherence which nothing can justify.”

In her view, Eliot’s prioritisation of “observation rather than imagination… inexorable analysis rather than sensibility, passion or fantasy” means that she should not be held amongst the first ranks of novelists.

Above: Marie-Thérèse de Solms-Blanc (aka Thérèse Bentzon) (1840 – 1907)

The German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche, who read Middlemarch in a translation owned by his mother and sister, derided the novel for construing suffering as a means of expiating the debt of sin, which he found characteristic of “little moralistic females à la Eliot“.

Above: Friedrich Nietzsche (1844 – 1900)

Despite the divided contemporary response, Middlemarch gained immediate admirers:

In 1873, the poet Emily Dickinson expressed high praise for the novel, exclaiming in a letter to a friend: 

What do I think of ‘Middlemarch’?”

What do I think of glory – except that in a few instances this “mortal has already put on immortality.”

George Eliot was one.

The mysteries of human nature surpass the “mysteries of redemption,” for the infinite we only suppose, while we see the finite.

Emily Dickinson, Letter to her cousins Louise and Fannie Norcross

Above: Emily Dickinson (1830 – 1886)

In separate centuries, Florence Nightingale and Kate Millett remarked on the eventual subordination of Dorothea‘s own dreams to those of her admirer, Ladislaw.

Indeed, the ending acknowledges this and mentions how unfavourable social conditions prevented her from fulfilling her potential.

Above: Florence Nightingale (1820 – 1910)

Above: Kate Millett (1934 – 2017)

In the first half of the 20th century, Middlemarch continued to provoke contrasting responses.

Leslie Stephen dismissed the novel in 1902:

The immediate success of Middlemarch may have been proportioned rather to the author’s reputation than to its intrinsic merits.

The novel seems to fall short of the great masterpieces which imply a closer contact with the world of realities and less preoccupation with certain speculative doctrines.

Above: Leslie Stephen (1832 – 1904)

His daughter Virginia Woolf described it in 1919 as “the magnificent book that, with all its imperfections, is one of the few English novels written for grown-up people.”

However, Woolf was “virtually unique” among the modernists in her unstinting praise for Middlemarch.

The novel also remained overlooked by the reading public of the time.

Above: Virginia Woolf (1882 – 1941)

F. R. Leavis’ The Great Tradition (1948) is credited with having “rediscovered” the novel:

The necessary part of great intellectual powers in such a success as Middlemarch is obvious … the sheer informedness about society, its mechanisms, the ways in which people of different classes live … a novelist whose genius manifests itself in a profound analysis of the individual.”

Leavis’ appraisal of it has been hailed as the beginning of a critical consensus that still exists towards the novel, in which it is recognised not only as Eliot’s finest work, but as one of the greatest novels in English. 

Above: Frank Raymond Leavis (1895 – 1978)

V. S. Pritchett, in The Living Novel, two years earlier, in 1946 had written that:

No Victorian novel approaches Middlemarch in its width of reference, its intellectual power, or the imperturbable spaciousness of its narrative.

I doubt if any Victorian novelist has as much to teach the modern novelists as George Eliot …

No writer has ever represented the ambiguities of moral choice so fully”.

Above: Victor Sawdon Pritchett (1900 – 1997)

In the 21st century, the novel is still held in high regard.

The novelists Martin Amis and Julian Barnes have both called it probably the greatest novel in the English language.

Above: Martin Amis

Above: Julian Barnes

Today Middlemarch is frequently included in university courses.

In 2013, the then British Education Secretary Michael Gove referred to Middlemarch in a speech, suggesting its superiority to Stephenie Meyer’s vampire novel Twilight.

Gove’s comments led to debate on teaching Middlemarch in Britain, including the question of when novels like Middlemarch should be read, and the role of canonical texts in teaching.

Above: Michael Gove

The novel has remained a favourite with readers and scores high in reader rankings:

In 2003, it was #27 in the BBC’s The Big Read.

In 2007, it was #10 in “The 10 Greatest Books of All Time“, based on a ballot of 125 selected writers.

In 2015, in a BBC Culture poll of book critics outside the UK, the novel was ranked at #1 in “The 100 greatest British novels“.

On 5 November 2019, BBC News reported that Middlemarch is on the BBC list of 100 “most inspiring” novels.

Above: Logo of the British Broadcasting Corporation

Middlemarch has been adapted several times for television and the stage.

In 1968, it appeared as a BBC-produced TV mini-series of the same name, directed by Joan Craft, starring Michele Dotrice.

The first episode, “Dorothea“, is missing from the BBC Archives, while the third episode, “The New Doctor“, can be viewed online, although only as a low-quality black and white telerecording owned by a private collector.

The other five episodes have been withheld from public viewing.

Above: Michele Dotrice

In 1994 it was again adapted by the BBC as a TV series of the same name, directed by Anthony Page with a screenplay by Andrew Davies.

This was a critical and financial success and revived public interest adapting the classics.

In 2013 came a stage adaptation, and also an Orange Tree Theatre Repertory production adapted and directed by Geoffrey Beevers as three plays: Dorothea’s StoryThe Doctor’s Story, and Fred & Mary.

The novel has never been made into a film, although the idea was toyed with by the English director Sam Mendes.

Above: Sam Mendes

In April 2022, Dash Arts produced The Great Middlemarch Mystery, an immersive theatre experience staged across three locations in Coventry, including Drapers Hall.

Above: Drapers Hall, Coventry

The opera Middlemarch in Spring by Allen Shearer, to a libretto by Claudia Stevens, has a cast of six and treats only the central story of Dorothea Brooke.

It was first staged in San Francisco in 2015.

In 2017, a modern adaptation, Middlemarch: The Series, aired on YouTube as a video blog.

Lyrics for the song “How Soon Is Now?” by The Smiths were taken from Middlemarch

I am the son
And the heir
Of a shyness that is criminally vulgar
I am the son and heir
Of nothing in particular

You shut your mouth
How can you say
I go about things the wrong way?
I am human and I need to be loved
Just like everybody else does

I am the son
And the heir
Of a shyness that is criminally vulgar
I am the son and heir
Of nothing in particular

You shut your mouth
How can you say
I go about things the wrong way?
I am human and I need to be loved
Just like everybody else does

There’s a club if you’d like to go
You could meet somebody who really loves you
So you go and you stand on your own
And you leave on your own
And you go home and you cry
And you want to die

When you say it’s gonna happen now
When exactly do you mean?
See I’ve already waited too long
And all my hope is gone

You shut your mouth
How can you say
I go about things the wrong way?
I am human and I need to be loved
Just like everybody else does

The plot of Indiana:

Indiana is the story’s heroine, a young noblewoman descended from French colonial settlers from Île Bourbon (now Réunion) and currently living in France.

Indiana is married to an older ex-army officer named Colonel Delmare and suffers from a variety of unknown illnesses, presumably due to the lack of passion in her life.

Indiana does not love Delmare and searches for someone who will love her passionately.

She overlooks her cousin Ralph, who lives with her and the colonel.

As it turns out, Ralph is in love with Indiana.

When their young, handsome, and well-spoken neighbor, Raymon de Ramiere, declares his interest to Indiana, she falls in love with him.

Raymon has already seduced Indiana‘s maid, Noun, who is pregnant with his child.

When Noun finds out what is going on, she drowns herself.

Indiana‘s husband decides that they will move to Île Bourbon.

Indiana escapes the house to faithfully present herself in Raymon‘s apartments in the middle of the night, expecting him to accept her as his mistress in spite of society’s inevitable condemnation.

He at first attempts to seduce her but, on failing, rejects her once and for all.

He cannot bear the thought that her will is stronger than his and writes her a letter intended to make her fall in love with him again, even though he has no intention of requiting this love.

Indiana has moved to the Island with the Colonel by the time she reads the letter.

She resists the letter but finally returns to France on a perilous sea journey.

When she arrives in Paris, the French Revolution of 1830 is taking place.

In the meantime, Raymon has made an advantageous marriage and bought Indiana’s house, where he and his wife live.

The stoic and remote Sir Ralph, whom Indiana has always seen as an ‘égoiste‘, suddenly comes to rescue her and tell her that Colonel Delmare has died from a fever.

Indiana and Ralph decide to commit suicide together by jumping into a waterfall on the Île Bourbon.

But on the way home, they fall in love.

Just before the suicide, they declare their love for one another and pledge that they will be married in Heaven.

At the end of the novel comes a conclusion, a young adventurer’s account of finding a man and woman, Ralph and Indiana, living on an isolated farm on the Island.

The novel deals with many typical 19th century novelistic themes.

These include adultery, social constraint, and unfulfilled longing for romantic love.

The novel is an exploration of 19th century female desire complicated by class constraints and by social codes about infidelity.

In another sense, the novel critiques the laws around women’s equality in France.

Indiana cannot leave her husband, Colonel Delmare, because she lacks the protection of the law:

Under the Napoleonic Code, women could not obtain property, claim ownership of their children, or divorce.

Finally, the novel touches on the subordination of the colonies to the French Empire.

Sand’s first literary efforts were collaborations with the writer Jules Sandeau.

They published several stories together, signing them Jules Sand.

Sand’s first published novel Rose et Blanche (1831) was written in collaboration with Sandeau. 

She subsequently adopted, for her first independent novel, Indiana (1832), the pen name that made her famous – George Sand.

Sand was the most popular writer (of any gender) in Europe by the age of 27, more popular than both Victor Hugo and Honoré de Balzac in England in the 1830s and 1840s.

Above: George Sand

She remained immensely popular as a writer throughout her lifetime and long after her death.

Early in her career, her work was in high demand.

By 1836, the first of several compendia of her writings was published in 24 volumes.

In total, four separate editions of her “Complete Works” were published during her lifetime.

In 1880, her children sold the rights to her literary estate for 125,000 francs (equivalent to 36 kg worth of gold, or $1.3 million dollars in 2015).

Drawing from her childhood experiences of the countryside, Sand wrote the pastoral novels La Mare au Diable (1846), François le Champi (1847–1848), La Petite Fadette (1849), and Les Beaux Messieurs de Bois Doré (1857). 

A Winter in Majorca described the period that she and Chopin spent on that island from 1838 to 1839.

Sand spent the winter of 1838–1839 with Frédéric Chopin in Mallorca at the (formerly abandoned) Carthusian monastery of Valldemossa.

The trip to Mallorca was described in her Un hiver à Majorque, first published in 1841.

Chopin was already ill with incipient tuberculosis at the beginning of their relationship, and spending a cold and wet winter in Mallorca where they could not get proper lodgings exacerbated his symptoms.

Above: Valldemossa, Mallorca, Spain

Sand and Chopin also spent many long summers at Sand’s country manor in Nohant (1839 – 1846, excepting 1840). 

There, Chopin wrote many of his most famous works, including the Fantasie in F Minor Opus 49, Piano Sonata No. 3 Opus 58, and the Ballade No. 3 Opus 47.

Above: George Sand House, Nohant, France

In her novel Lucrezia Floriani, Sand used Chopin as a model for a sickly Eastern European prince named Karol.

He is cared for by a middle-aged actress past her prime, Lucrezia, who suffers a great deal through her affection for Karol

Though Sand claimed not to have made a cartoon out of Chopin, the book’s publication and widespread readership may have exacerbated their later antipathy towards each other.

After Chopin’s death, Sand burned much of their correspondence, leaving only four surviving letters between the two.

Three of the letters were published in the “Classiques Garnier” series in 1968.

Above: Grave of Frédéric Chopin, Père Lachaise cemetery, Paris, France

Another breach was caused by Chopin’s attitude toward Sand’s daughter, Solange.

Chopin continued to be cordial to Solange after Solange and her husband Auguste Clésinger had a falling out with Sand over money.

Sand took Chopin’s support of Solange to be extremely disloyal, and confirmation that Chopin had always “loved” Solange.

Above: Solange Dudevant- Clésinger (1828 – 1899)

Sand’s son Maurice also disliked Chopin.

Maurice wanted to establish himself as the “man of the estate” and did not wish to have Chopin as a rival.

Maurice removed two sentences from a letter Sand wrote to Chopin when he published it because he felt that Sand was too affectionate toward Chopin and Solange.

Above: Jean-François-Maurice-Arnauld Dudevant (aka Maurice Sand) (1823 – 1889)

They separated two years before his death for a variety of reasons.

Chopin was never asked back to Nohant.

In 1848, he returned to Paris from a tour of the United Kingdom, to die at the Place Vendôme in 1849.

George Sand was notably absent from his funeral.

Above: Funerary monument on a pillar in Holy Cross Church, Warsaw, Poland, enclosing Chopin’s heart

Her other novels include Indiana (1832), Lélia (1833), Mauprat (1837), Le Compagnon du Tour de France (1840), Consuelo (1843), and Le Meunier d’Angibault (1845).

Theatre pieces and autobiographical pieces include Histoire de ma vie (1855), Elle et Lui (1859, about her affair with Musset), Journal Intime (posthumously published in 1926), and Correspondence.

Sand often performed her theatrical works in her small private theatre at the Nohant estate.

Sand’s writing was immensely popular during her lifetime and she was highly respected by the literary and cultural elite in France. 

Victor Hugo, in the eulogy he gave at her funeral, said:

The lyre was within her.

In this country whose law is to complete the French Revolution and begin that of the equality of the sexes, being a part of the equality of men, a great woman was needed.

It was necessary to prove that a woman could have all the manly gifts without losing any of her angelic qualities, be strong without ceasing to be tender.

George Sand proved it.

George Sand was an idea.

She has a unique place in our age.”

Above: Victor Hugo (1802 – 1885)

Sand also wrote literary criticism and political texts.

In her early life, she sided with the poor and working class as well as women’s rights.

When the 1848 Revolution began, she was an ardent republican.

Sand started her own newspaper, published in a workers’ cooperative.

Politically, she became very active after 1841.

Leaders of the day often consulted with her and took her advice.

She was a member of the provisional government of 1848, issuing a series of fiery manifestos.

Above: Lamartine in front of the Town Hall of Paris rejects the red flag on 25 February 1848

While many Republicans were imprisoned or went to exile after Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte’s coup d’état of December 1851, she remained in France, maintained an ambiguous relationship with the new regime, and negotiated pardons and reduced sentences for her friends.

Above: Louis Napoléon Bonaparte / Napoléon III (1808 – 1873)

Sand was known for her implication and writings during the Paris Commune of 1871, where she took a position for the Versailles assembly against the “communards“, urging them to take violent action against the “rebels”.

She was appalled by the violence of the Paris Commune, writing:

The horrible adventure continues.

They ransom, they threaten, they arrest, they judge.

They have taken over all the city halls, all the public establishments, they’re pillaging the munitions and the food supplies.

Above: A barricade thrown up by the Communard National Guard, 18 March 1871


Others are great men.

She was a great woman.

Victor Hugo

Sand was one of many notable 19th century women who chose to wear male attire in public.

In 1800, the police issued an order requiring women to apply for a permit in order to wear male clothing.

Some women applied for health, occupational, or recreational reasons (e.g., horse riding), but many women chose to wear pants and other traditional male attire in public without receiving a permit.

They did so as well for practical reasons, but also at times to subvert dominant stereotypes.

Above: Aurore Dupin meeting General Joachim Murat (1767 – 1815) in her uniform

Sand was one of the women who wore men’s clothing without a permit, justifying it as being less expensive and far sturdier than the typical dress of a noblewoman at the time.

In addition to being comfortable, Sand’s male attire enabled her to circulate more freely in Paris than most of her female contemporaries and gave her increased access to venues from which women were often barred, even women of her social standing.

Also scandalous was Sand’s smoking tobacco in public.

Neither peerage nor gentry had yet sanctioned the free indulgence of women in such a habit, especially in public.

While there were many contemporary critics of her comportment, many people accepted her behaviour until they became shocked with the subversive tone of her novels. 

Those who found her writing admirable were not bothered by her ambiguous or rebellious public behaviour.

Above: George Sand

Victor Hugo commented:

George Sand cannot determine whether she is male or female.

I entertain a high regard for all my colleagues, but it is not my place to decide whether she is my sister or my brother.”

Above: George Sand

Eugène Delacroix was a close friend and respected her literary gifts.

Above: Eugène Delacroix (1798 – 1863)

Flaubert, by no means an indulgent or forbearing critic, was an unabashed admirer. 

Above: Gustave Flaubert (1821 – 1880)

Honoré de Balzac, who knew Sand personally, once said that if someone thought she wrote badly, it was because their own standards of criticism were inadequate.

He also noted that her treatment of imagery in her works showed that her writing had an exceptional subtlety, having the ability to “virtually put the image in the word“. 

Above: Honoré de Balzac (1799 – 1850)

Alfred de Vigny referred to her as “Sappho“.

Above: Alfred de Vigny (1797 – 1863)

Above: Earliest representation of Sappho (630 – 570 BCE)

Not all of her contemporaries admired her or her writing:

Poet Charles Baudelaire was one contemporary critic of George Sand:

Above: Charles Baudelaire (1821 – 1867)

She is stupid, heavy and garrulous.

Her ideas on morals have the same depth of judgment and delicacy of feeling as those of janitresses and kept women….

The fact that there are men who could become enamoured of this slut is indeed a proof of the abasement of the men of this generation.

Above: George Sand as Mary Magdalene

In 1822, at the age of 18, Sand married Casimir Dudevant, an out-of-wedlock son of Baron Jean-François Dudevant.

She and Dudevant had two children: 

Maurice and Solange.

Above: Casimir Dudevant (1795 – 1871)

In 1825, she had an intense, but perhaps platonic, affair with the young lawyer Aurélien de Sèze.

Above: Aurélien de Sèze (1799 – 1870)

In early 1831, she left her husband and entered upon a four- or five-year period of “romantic rebellion“.

In 1835, she was legally separated from Dudevant and took custody of their children.

Sand had romantic affairs with:

  • novelist Jules Sandeau

Above: Jules Sandeau (1811 – 1883)

  • writer Prosper Mérimée

Above: Prosper Mérimée (1803 – 1870)

  • dramatist Alfred de Musset

Above: Alfred de Musset (1810 – 1857)

  • actor Pierre François Bocage

Above: Pierre Martinien Tousez (aka Bocage) (1799 – 1862)

  • writer Charles Didier

Above: Charles Didier (1805 – 1864)

  • novelist Félicien Mallefille

Above: Félicien Mallefille (1813 – 1868)

  • politician Louis Blanc

Above: Louis Blanc (1811 – 1862)

  • composer Frédéric Chopin

Above: Frédéric Chopin (1810 – 1849)

Later in her life, she corresponded with Gustave Flaubert.

Despite their differences in temperament and aesthetic preference, they eventually became close friends.

She engaged in an intimate romantic relationship with actress Marie Dorval.

Above: Marie Dorval (1798 – 1849)

Fyodor Dostoevsky “read widely in the numerous novels of George Sand” and translated her La dernière Aldini in 1844, but “discovered to his dismay that the work had already appeared in Russian“. 

In his mature period, he expressed an ambiguous attitude towards her.

Above: Fyodor Dostoevsky (1821 – 1881)

For instance, in his novella Notes from Underground, the narrator writes:

I launch off at that point into European, inexplicably lofty subtleties a la George Sand.

Above: First edition of Notes from Underground (in Russian), 1866

The English poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning wrote two poems:

  • To George Sand: A Desire
  • To George Sand: A Recognition

Above: Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806 – 1861)

The American poet Walt Whitman cited Sand’s novel Consuelo as a personal favorite, and the sequel to this novel, La Comtesse de Rudolstadt, contains at least a couple of passages that appear to have had a very direct influence on him.

Above: Walt Whitman (1819 – 1892)

In addition to her influences on English and Russian literature, Sand’s writing and political views informed numerous 19th century authors in Spain and Latin America, including Gertrudis Gómez de Avellaneda, the Cuban-born writer who also published and lived in Spain.

Critics have noted structural and thematic similarities between George Sand’s Indiana, published in 1832, and Gómez de Avellaneda’s anti-slavery novel Sab, published in 1841.

Above: Gertrudis Gómez de Avellaneda (1814 – 1873)

In the first episode of the “Overture” to Swann’s Way — the first novel in Marcel Proust’s In Search of Lost Time sequence — a young, distraught Marcel is calmed by his mother as she reads from François le Champi, a novel which (it is explained) was part of a gift from his grandmother, which also included La Mare au DiableLa Petite Fadette, and Les Maîtres Sonneurs.

As with many episodes involving art in À la recherche du temps perdu, this reminiscence includes commentary on the work.

Above: Marcel Proust (1871 – 1922)

Sand is also referred to in Virginia Woolf’s book-length essay A Room of One’s Own, along with George Eliot and Charlotte Brontë as:

All victims of inner strife as their writings prove, sought ineffectively to veil themselves by using the name of a man.

Above: Virginia Woolf (1882 – 1941)

Frequent literary references to George Sand can be found in Possession (1990) by A. S. Byatt and in the play Voyage, the first part of Tom Stoppard’s The Coast of Utopia trilogy (2002).

Above: Antonia Susan Byatt

Above: Tom Stoppard

George Sand makes an appearance in Isabel Allende’s Zorro, going still by her given name, as a young girl in love with Diego de la Vega (Zorro).

Above: Isabel Allende

Chopin, Sand and her children are the main characters of the theater play by Polish writer Jaroslaw Iwaszkiewicz “A Summer in Nohant“, which premiered in 1930.

The play, presenting the final stage of the writer-composer’s relationship, was adapted five times by Polish television:

  • in 1963 (with Antonina Gordon-Górecka as Sand and Gustaw Holoubek as Chopin)
  • in 1972 (with Halina Mikołajska and Leszek Herdegen)
  • in 1980 (with Anna Polony and Michał Pawlicki)
  • in 1999 (with Joanna Szczepkowska, who portrayed Solange in the 1980 version, and Piotr Skiba)
  • in 2021 (with Katarzyna Herman and Marek Kossakowski).

Above: Jarosław Iwaszkiewicz (1894 – 1980)

George Sand is portrayed by: 

  • Mèrle Oberon in A Song to Remember

  • Patricia Morison in Song Without End

  • Rosemary Harris in Notorious Woman (1974)

  • Judy Davis in James Lapine’s 1991 British-American film Impromptu

  • Juliette Binoche in the 1999 French film Children of the Century (Les Enfants du siècle)

  • in George Who? (George qui?), a 1973 French biographical film directed by Michèle Rosier and starring Anne Wiazemsky as Sand

  • in the 2002 Polish film Chopin: Desire for Love, directed by Jerzy Antczak, George Sand is portrayed by Danuta Stenka

If I become better known as Canada Slim and that name is equated with quality, then why would it be necessary for my work to bear the name on my birth certificate?

Changing George to Mary Ann or Amantine will neither enhance nor detract from the quality of their writing.

Frankly, I doubt the dead much care about our present sensitivities.

Feminism is about women liberating themselves – changing perceptions, laws, employment practices, and so on.

Feminism is easily the biggest movement in human history.

Women across all cultures and religions have suffered immeasurably for thousands of years and now are catching up.

Real gains have been made by women, but you cannot liberate only half of the human race.

The idea of liberating women from men assumes that men were somehow the winners in a power struggle and that power was what life was all about.

Feminism assumes that men are having a good time.

It is much more realistic to say that both men and women are trapped in a system which damages them both.

The way forward lies not in women fighting men but in women and men together fighting the ancient stupidities that have been bequeathed to them.

Consider the business and professional world.

Women have learned to compete on male terms.

They live like men, talk like men, exploit like men.

They inherit ulcers, heart attacks and children who hate them.

Welcome to the privileged world of men.

Any move to change the order of things which does not also address the fact that men are equally lost, trapped and miserable, will only create its own resistance.

Feminism elevates women from a long subservience.

It is important and must continue.

But most men have been subservient too – to a dehumanizing system that only grew worse with the advent of the industrial era.

Above: Charlie Chaplin (1889 – 1977), Modern Times (1936)

A woman, despite the strides and advances feminism has made, can still seek not to work if she is clever and attractive.

Life offers the human being two choices: animal existence – a lower order of life – and spiritual existence.

We have the same intellectual potential.

There is no primary difference in intelligence between the sexes.

I welcome women who seek to utilize their potential, their intelligence, ambition, industry and pertinacity, but that being said, what is the point of a man seeking the companionship of a woman, such as one of the two aforementioned Georges, if by sheer virtue of their gender a man must subject all of his potential to a woman who feels no guilt in abandoning him on a whim despite all that he may have done for her previously required?

From my reading of the histories of the two Georges and from the literature that these authors produced, it strikes me that they sought the freedom to do as they so chose with all the privileges that union with a man offered without the reciprocal responsibility that a relationship is supposed to infer.

We muse on the lives of these women, but we are curiously incurious as to the emotional distress they caused their men and children in the wake of their liberation.

Sand had a dozen lovers that we know of.

Eliot had an affair with a married man then later with a man significantly younger than herself.

Did they have the right to live their lives and love whomsoever they chose?

Certainly.

But at what cost to those who were intimate with them?

This remains unspoken.

In a bar in Toledo, across from the depot
On a barstool, she took off her ring
I thought I’d get closer, so I walked on over
I sat down and asked her name
When the drinks finally hit her, she said
I’m no quitter
But I finally quit livin’ on dreams
I’m hungry for laughter and here ever after
I’m after whatever the other life brings
.”
In the mirror, I saw him, and I closely watched him
I thought how he looked out of place
He came to the woman who sat there beside me
He had a strange look on his face
The big hands were calloused, he looked like a mountain
For a minute I thought I was dead
But he started shaking, his big heart was breaking
He turned to the woman and said
:

You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
With four hungry children and a crop in the field.
I’ve had some bad times, lived through some sad times,
But this time your hurting won’t heal.
You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
.”

After he left us, I ordered more whiskey
I thought how she’d made him look small.
From the lights of the barroom
To a rented hotel room
We walked without talking at all.
She was a beauty, but when she came to me,
She must have thought I’d lost my mind.
I couldn’t hold her, ’cause the words that he told her
Kept coming back time after time
:

You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
With four hungry children and a crop in the field
I’ve had some bad times, lived through some sad times
But this time your hurting won’t heal
You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
*

They chose to emulate male privilege but acted without male compulsion to guard the feelings of those with whom they were involved.

They hid behind male pseudonyms for their own profit and protection.

This does not diminish the power of the prose they created, but as their fame lay in the pen names they chose for themselves, I do not think a great service is done to the memory of their accomplishments should their works revert to their original feminine names nor a disservice done should their pen names remain to identify their works.

Let us praise a person not by virtue of their gender, but in spite of it.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Roger Axtel, Do’s and Taboos Around the World / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / George Eliot, Middlemarch / Alison Flood, “Female authors make debuts under their real names“, The Guardian, 12 August 2020 / George Sand, Indiana / Esther Vilar, The Manipulated Man

Canada Slim and the King of Pain

Eskişehir, Turkey, Saturday 28 May 2022

I am often asked, usually in a tone of utter astonishment:

Why are you in Turkey and not in Switzerland?

Above: Fairytale Castle, Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Turkey

I am often asked, usually in a tone of complete confusion:

Why have you chosen to live alone and not remain with your wife back in Landschlacht?

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

I am often asked, usually in a tone of total concern:

How do you feel being so far removed from the life you led back in Switzerland (or going further back, in Canada)?

Above: Flag of Canada

How can you possibly be happy?

The explanations are not so easy to elucidate.

“To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive.”

Robert Louis Stevenson

Above: Robert Louis Stevenson (1850 – 1894)

Certainly, the idea of going off to the unknown to seek adventures holds more than a touch of romance for me.

In my own humble way I might compare myself to early heroic explorers such as Ferdinand Magellan or to fictional travellers in the vein of Phileas Fogg, as circumnavigators of our planet have always captured the imagination of my adventurous soul.

Above: Ferdinand Magellan (1480 – 1521)

Above: First edition of Jules Verne’s Around the World in Eighty Days

I will openly admit that nothing can compare with the joy of the open road.

The sense of possibility and adventure brings feelings of exhilaration, too long submerged in the workaday routines of home.

Cheap air travel – Sorry, Greta Thunberg. – has opened up parts of the globe – for better or worse – once reserved for the seriously affluent.

The sense of possibility and adventure brings feelings of exhilaration, too long submerged in the workaday routines of home.

Cheap air travel – Sorry, Greta Thunberg. – has opened up parts of the globe – for better or worse – once reserved for the seriously affluent.

Above: Greta Thunberg

When travelling in far-flung corners of the world, you can escape the demands of modern life:

The chores, the clutter, the technology (this latter not so easy for millennials to abandon).

Above: Young adults using their mobile phones individually at a party

It is said that there is no fool like an old fool.

Should I not, a man who probably has fewer years ahead than behind, finally accept my fate, stay settled and be content with my assigned lot in life?

But whatever your stage in life, travelling spontaneously means you have the freedom to choose from an infinite spectrum of possibilities.

Those who have experienced independent travel have been smitten by the travel bug, moulded by Wanderlust, and will forever after long to visit more places, see more wonders and spend a longer time abroad.

I have been travelling, punctuated by periods of work to fund my travels, since my mid-20s.

Above: Your humble blogger

I met my wife when I was 30.

Above: Edmund Blair Leighton, The Wedding

Prior to my present circumstances in Turkey, I have lived and worked as a teacher in South Korea, Germany and Switzerland.

Above: Flag of South Korea

Above: Hwaseong Fortress, Suwon, South Korea

I have spent the last two decades in the last two aforementioned countries because of my relationship with my wife.

But part of the equation that determines a man’s total self-actualization is his ability to find happiness in the activities that generate his income.

In Germany this was easier.

Above: Flag of Germany

In Switzerland, my wife’s employment opportunities as a doctor were enhanced.

As a ESL teacher, my employment bonanza turned to dust in Switzerland.

Coming to Switzerland gave new life to my wife.

Coming to Switzerland was career suicide for me.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

The memory of a life that once was, where trekking in hinterlands was within the grasp of this ordinary man, gave me longing from a fascination ne’er forgotten for destinations as yet undiscovered.

Faraway places
With strange soundin’ names
Faraway over the sea
Those faraway places
With the strange soundin’ names
Are callin’, callin’ me

Goin’ to China
Or maybe Siam
I want to see for myself
Those faraway places
I’ve been readin’ about
In a book that I took from a shelf

I start getting restless
Whenever I hear
The whistle of a train
I pray for the day
I can get underway
And look for those castles in Spain

They call me a dreamer
Well, maybe I am
But I know that I’m burnin’ to see
Those faraway places
With the strange soundin’ names
Callin’, callin’ me

Of course, the practical, the logical reasoning that is the Germanic temperament invariably asks how such adventures can be afforded.

Magellan had the backing of the King and Queen of Spain, Phileas Fogg was a gentleman of independent means, and Michael Palin could always call on the resources of the BBC.

How can ordinary people possibly make their dreams a reality?

Above: Flag of the Spanish Empire (1516 – 1700)

Above: Michael Palin

I am a loveable idiot.

In my youth when I wanted to go somewhere I just went.

Once upon a time I entered the US with $10 Canadian in my pocket and left the US eight months later with $10 American.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

I walked many miles across the expanse of Canada with often minimal money and with no inkling where I might lay my head each evening.

Above: Canada (in green)

Like Blanche of A Streetcar Named Desire, I have always depended on the kindness of strangers and my own resourcefulness within the limits of the law.

The conventional means is to work hard all one’s life until that glorious wondrous day when you have the financial wherewithal to travel indefinitely.

But that makes the assumption that when that day arrives (if that day arrives) that a person has both the opportunity and the health to do so.

Grim spells of work, denying yourself the living of life may be a truly honourable, safe and secure, way of joining that safari in Tanzania, that diving in the Philippines, that bungee jumping in New Zealand sometime in the uncertain future.

Above: Flag of Tanzania

Above: Flag of the Philippines

Above: Flag of New Zealand

But what if it were possible to skip this decades-long, lifetime-long stage and head off into the horizon sooner than one’s senior years?

Instead of trying to finance the expensive trips advertised in the glossy travel brochures, what about trying to find alternative ways of experiencing those same places at a fraction of the cost?

Above: Travel agent, The Truman Show

Above: Jim Carrey (Truman Burbank), The Truman Show

Working in a faraway place allows the traveller to see how daily life is lived there.

Certainly, it is cheaper and quicker and far more satisfying a solution than waiting until I can afford to travel continuously in comfort.

And working abroad is an excellent way to experience a foreign culture from the inside.

The plucky Brit spending a few months on a Queensland outback station will have a different life experience than someone tending bar in Queens all their lives in the hopes that they might one day be able to afford that Florida fortnight in a resort hotel.

Above: Outback station, Queensland, Australia

Above: Bar, Queens, New York City, USA

Phil Tomkins, a 45-year-old Englishman who spent a year teaching on the tiny Greek island of Kea, (as quoted in Susan Griffith’s Work Your Way Around the World) describes the thought processes that galvanized him into action:

I think it comes down to the fact that we are only on this planet for a finger-snap of time.

If you have any kind of urge for a bit of adventure, then my advice would be to go for it!

Even if it all goes horribly wrong, you can look people in the eyes and say:

“At least, I gave it a try!”

You can work nine-to-five in an office or factory all day, come home, switch on the Idiot Lantern (what we North Americans call the Boob Tube) and sit there watching Michael Palin travelling the world – or you can be bold, seize the day, and do something amazing.

One thing I can guarantee:

When we are lying on our deathbed many years from now, we will not be saying to ourselves:

“Oh, I wish I had spent more time at the dead-end job and had a little less adventure in my life!”

Above: Ioulida, Kea, Greece

Above: Flag of Greece

Anyone with a taste for adventure and a modicum of nerve (or folly, depending on your point-of-view) has the potential for exploring the far-flung corners of the globe on very little money.

I am a loveable idiot, incomprehensible to many, more logical, folks.

For example, the textile factory that funds my weekly journey and sojourn in Denizli cheerfully, uncomplainingly paid for me to stay in a luxury hotel, the Park Dedeman.

There was absolutely no reason to complain about the standards of the services this hotel provided.

Above: Hotel Park Dedeman, Denizli, Turkey

I learned that were cheaper places for the company to put me up and since last week I am now to be a regular weekly guest at the Denizli Öğretmen Evi (Teachers’ House) at one third the cost of the Dedeman but with the same basic amenities provided in a less lavish form.

Granted this is not my money to worry about, but the OE feels more real, more authentic an experience than the Dedeman.

And, perhaps, if a decision for the continuation of ESL courses at the company hinges upon the cost of accommodating me in Denizli then I have made it easier for them to prolong the programme.

More importantly (at least to me) it is good to remind myself that comfort does not equal cultural experience.

The OE has few, if any, foreign guests.

And for Turks the OE is affordable, especially at time when the Turkish economy is hurting.

As for the textile factory that foots my bill, whether they acknowledge it or not, I have saved them money and have shown them, whether they see it or not, that I value their custom and wish to make it clear that I consider their needs as much as I own.

A luxury suite at a fancy hotel is nice, but is it a requirement for me?

No.

Above: Öğretmen Evi, Denizli, Turkey

I am often asked:

Wouldn’t the burden of being a stranger in a strange land be easier if shared?

Wouldn’t living abroad be more pleasant when someone were there by your side?

Are you not lonely sometimes?

Don’t you miss the wife?

To their surprise (and occasionally mine)(and to the consternation of the wife), loneliness is rarely an issue since solo travelling, solitary living, allows me to meet and be befriended by local people.

I have travelled quite pleasantly with my wife, but travelling with a significant other lacks the sense of possibility and adventure that I love most about travelling, about living abroad.

Whatever situations I get myself into when I am on my own, I have to get out of by myself.

Certainly there are sunsets I long to share and nights without end best survived together, but by the same token, the glorious moments, the feelings of triumph and absolute freedom, are uniquely mine.

Certainly we keep in communication with one another, thanks to the wonders of modern communication such as WhatsApp and Skype, for we remain married to one another at this time.

Above: WhatsApp logo

Above: Skype logo

Despite the limitations that time and distance create, I act responsibly to the best of my ability.

Do I honestly believe that she will wait indefinitely for me to end this “phase” of living and working abroad?

No, I do not believe so, for in my (albeit, limited) understanding of women, she craves the companionship that a constant partner provides.

I am not constantly consistently there.

And I cannot predict when this “phase” will end or even if it will end.

And let’s get real about the elephant in the room:

Sex.

Sex isn’t a separate part of a person.

Your heart, spirit, mind and body need to be along for the ride.

Sex is a spiritual practice, capable of transforming your whole outlook and refreshing your sense of glory in being alive.

And as much as self-manipulation is an essential and healthy part of a person’s sexuality throughout life, as much as it is the way to develop appreciation of ourselves and our sensory potential and realize that we own our own sexual energy, it is unfair to expect that self-love will indefinitely satisfy those who crave the intimacy of companionship.

My wife is a woman and women crave companionship.

She will not wait indefinitely nor is it reasonable to have such an expectation.

We are all animals, to one degree or another.

We like eating, drinking, sleeping, sex.

But what separates us from the animals is our ability to control our baser instincts.

You and me, baby, ain’t nothin’ but mammals
So let’s do it like they do on the Discovery Channel
(Do it again now)
You and me, baby, ain’t nothin’ but mammals
So let’s do it like they do on the Discovery Channel

I need food and drink and sleep to survive, but sex is a privilege not a right, a pleasure not a necessity.

And while I am married I refrain from the temptation of the latter as I seek to find myself in the adventure of solo living, of solo travelling.

Being alone, as much as there are moments when I miss the companionship of my wife, makes me more conscious of being alive when I am journeying in new and exciting ways.

Being in alien places and cultures gives me an increased connection with myself, because it is there in these new situations that my consciousness wakes up.

Above: James Stewart (George Bailey) and Thomas Mitchell (Uncle Billy), It’s A Wonderful Life

Away from Landschlacht, Switzerland, away from Lachute, Canada, I realize that I have turned off the unconscious autopilot that ran my normal life.

Above: rue Principale, Lachute, Québec, Canada

Away from the familiar, away from the safety and security, away from the routine, I start to take conscious control of my life.

Life becomes more immediately lived, with sometimes penury acting as a spur to action, with necessity becoming the mother of invention.

Of course, things can go desperately wrong.

Accidents will happen.

Folks get murdered, kidnapped, robbed.

You may get sick or lonely or fed up, have a demoralizing run of bad luck, fail to find a good job, begin to run out of money.

And, let me be honest, a job is a job is a job, whether it is in Switzerland or Swaziland, Canada or Costa Rica.

But when a job abroad does not work out successfully, the foreign experience is nevertheless more memorable than just staying at home.

Above: Travel agency poster, The Truman Show

Travelling is difficult at times.

Nothing much is familiar when we get to wherever we are going.

For many people, this is a strain.

Because they don’t understand everything that is happening, they try to diminish the experience, to make it unimportant and less real.

In my writing I try to show the reader how to accept, as calmly as possible, the sights and experiences of a strange place.

I try to make the foreign feel more familiar.

Part of that familiarization is the acceptance that life is not always fair, that experience will not always be positive or cheery.

Guidebooks tend to stress fun and ignore problems, but this attitude is not necessarily helpful.

Warnings and precautions should make a trip easier and more enjoyable rather than nerve-wracking.

On Thursday 19 May, a banking holiday in Turkey when many institutions (including schools) were closed, “the boys” (the male staff of Wall Street English Eskisehir) went to a hammam (a Turkish bathhouse) but those who have never done so were nervous and reluctant about the entire adventure.

Above: Kaplicar Ilicar Hamam, Eskişehir, Turkey

(The Commemoration of Atatürk, Youth and Sports Day (Turkish: Atatürk’ü Anma, Gençlik ve Spor Bayramı), is an annual Turkish national holiday celebrated on 19 May to commemorate Mustafa Kemal Atatürk’s landing at Samsun on 19 May 1919, which is regarded as the beginning of the Turkish War of Independence in the official historiography.)

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881 – 1938)

I, on the other hand, wish I could have joined them, but duty determined that I had to, once again, travel on Thursdays to Denizli.

Above: Bird’s eye view of Denizli, Turkey

I reminded the hammam newbies that when you feel nervous while travelling – for it is the foreigners, the “recent” residents of Turkey, who have yet to try much of what Turkey has to offer – either out of ignorance of what is happening or out of fear of what you have heard might happen, you cut yourself off from experience – good or bad.

Above: Flag of Turkey

You communicate in only one sense:

Defensively.

That is why tourists often speak to the locals in tones one would address a lamppost.

When you are relaxed you can communicate – a lesson my foreman Rasool frequently tries to teach me at work – even if it is just a quick smile or a passing greeting.

Above: Rasool Ajini

So, this is one of the main purposes of my writing:

To help travellers – And aren’t we all travellers in one way or another? – be both aware and appreciative of what they see and experience, to lessen the impact, not only on the reader, but on the places and people they travel to see.

Wherever you happen to be geographically, travel actually takes place in your brain.

Wherever you go there you are.

But I think that far too many folks expect to find home teleported to the places they have travelled.

Unfortunately, the landscape reflects this expectation as it seems to be continually transformed into the familiarity of the place you left behind upon the place wherever you find yourself now.

Home is so sad.

It stays as it was left, shaped to the comfort of the last to go, as if to win them back.

Philip Larkin, “Home Is So Sad

Above: Philip Larkin (1922 – 1985)

I was lucky, I know, to have been setting out at that time, in a landscape not yet bulldozed for speed.

Many of the country roads still followed their original tracks, drawn by packhorse or lumbering cartwheel, hugging the curve of a valley or yielding to a promontory like the wandering line of a stream.

It was not, after all, so very long ago, but no one could make the journey today.

Many of the old roads have gone.

The motor car, since then, has begun to cut the landscape to pieces, through which the hunched-up traveller races at gutter height, seeing less than a dog in a ditch.

Laurie Lee, As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning

Above: Laurie Lee (1914 – 1997)

Of course the world has been forced to concede even more ground in the search for greater speed and efficiency today.

Movement costs money and the faster the journey the quicker the expenditure.

The longer the stop, the longer the trip.

Faster the journey, lesser the experience.

The slower the journey, the greater sense of meaning the experience has.

Train traveller Paul Theroux spoke of the misery of air travel:

You define a good flight by negatives:

You didn’t get hijacked, you didn’t crash, you didn’t throw up, you were not late, you were not nauseated by the food.

So you are grateful.

Paul Theroux, The Old Patagonian Express

An uncomfortable truth about the modern holiday is that now, paradoxically, we can move so quickly around the world, most of us don’t actually travel any more.

We only arrive.

For some people, much of the enjoyment of a trip is in the advance planning.

They haunt libraries, bookstores and the Internet, send off for brochures and itineraries, draw lines and “X”s on maps and consult calendars for a propitious departure date.

Nothing is left to the imagination.

Everything that could be conceivably be attractive has been packaged and sanitized for your protection so that you can consume whatever you want, go wherever you want, without any need for individual search or discovery.

Personal interests and energy levels are very important, but many travellers fail to take these factors into account, however, and instead force themselves into the type of trip they assume they should be making.

Frantic frenzy, fumbling from church to ruin, cathedral-gazing and temple-crawling, leaves even the mighty weak.

I am my selfie, my companion my camera, plastic electronics grafted to faces capturing faces, a part of the landscape and yet apart from it, we are overexposed and under-stimulated.

Souvenirs of the surreal, not knowing where we are nor really caring to know.

Photographs are not memories.

The most important parts of any trip – how you felt and what you learned – collect in your mind over time.

If it was truly important, you will remember it.

You may not understand why the thing you remember is valuable when it seemed less crucial at the time, but that realization comes only with time.

All the things you can see in your mind, the experiences you are so rapturously seeking to reveal cannot, can never be, captured in a snapshot, or vicariously shared in a video.

Photographs break the spell of imagination.

Snapshots lack magic.

Videos fail to capture the vibrancy of experience.

Midnight, not a sound from the pavement
Has the moon lost her memory?
She is smiling alone
In the lamplight, the withered leaves collect at my feet
And the wind begins to moan

Memory, all alone in the moonlight
I can dream of the old days
Life was beautiful then
I remember the time I knew what happiness was
Let the memory live again

Every street lamp seems to beat
A fatalistic warning
Someone mutters and the street lamp sputters
And soon it will be morning

Daylight, I must wait for the sunrise
I must think of a new life
And I mustn’t give in
When the dawn comes, tonight will be a memory too
And a new day will begin

Burnt out ends of smoky days
The stale, cold smell of morning
A street lamp dies, another night is over
Another day is dawning

Touch me, it’s so easy to leave me
All alone with the memory
Of my days in the sun
If you touch me, you’ll understand what happiness is
Look, a new day has begun

Above: Logo of the musical Cats

We have forgotten the thrill of living in the moment, which is the real destination of all journeys, is what the greatest travel writers reveal and revel in their meticulous descriptions of the places they go and the people they meet.

It is only when you learn of the existence of moments that have the capacity to change your life forever do you begin to understand the beauty and majesty of existence, that the meaning of life is in the living of life.

When we seize the moment and embrace the fleeting opportunity it brings then do we truly live.

To truly travel is to slowly pick at the fabric of national identity as boundaries between nations are revealed as the transitional ideas they are.

There is a tendency to view the world in terms of miles/kilometres rather than actual geography, for actual geography has been been terraformed into miles of roads jammed with traffic.

A few hundred years ago there was no option but to travel slowly along the contours and channels of the earth and sea.

Indeed, that was the very definition of travel.

The effort required in those days meant that those who did go on long journeys came back as heroes, viewed by their home-locked peers as superior men and women.

Above: Spirit of St. Louis, National Air and Space Museum, Washington DC.
The Spirit of St. Louis is the custom-built single engine, single seat monoplane that was flown solo by Charles Lindbergh (1902 – 1974) on 20 – 21 May 1927, on the first non-stop flight from New York to Paris.

In 1749, Thomas Nugent, who wrote a guidebook of destinations one might seek on a Grand Tour, describes travel as:

The only means of improving the understanding and of acquiring a high degree of reputation.

The first civilized nations honoured even such as made but short voyages the title of philosophers and conquerors.

Nugent traces the lineage of those who head abroad to seek knowledge back to the Argonauts and Odysseus in Homer’s Odyssey.

I am not sure anyone would draw such a grandiose comparison with the average holidaymaker today.

Above: Thomas Nugent (1700 – 1772)

We have become a world of people speeding across the planet in quest of somewhere else and not seeing anything of anywhere we speed through.

Time is limited, we cry, and so we travel great distances at a marathon pace in order to see as much as possible.

Why is everyone in such a rush?

Above: Cover of U2’s “I Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For

We are a disconcerting congregation of the damned, discouraged and exhausted and spaced-out from driving or riding thousands of miles in a few days with the sole thought of finding a hotel room that offers the comforts of the home we so eagerly abandoned for a taste of the “exotic” somewhere else.

The most lasting impression instead is smelly gas stations, lousy breakfasts with cold coffee, hotel lobbies and ragged folks trying to shine your shoes whenever the weary traveller unwisely slumps down upon a park bench in an urban jungle.

Cover as many miles as you can between dawn and collapse.

Travel so fast that today might still be yesterday in the half-remembered remnants of the elusive moment.

See as much as you can see and remember little, if anything, of what you saw.

The speed at which you travel defines the experience.

A road is a tunnel that traps you in linear places, linear concepts and conceptions, linear time, an unwelcome refugee in Flatland.

The road provides ease and convenience, but cheats you of everything you might learn if only you had the time, courage and curiosity to leave it.

Walking is a virtue, tourism is a deadly sin.

Bruce Chatwin, What Am I Doing Here?

Above: Bruce Chatwin (1940 – 1989)

All horsepower corrupts.

Patrick Leigh Fermor, A Time of Gifts

Above: Patrick Leigh Fermor (1915 – 2011)

Perhaps we do not need to travel far.

Perhaps the beauty of treating your own home with a sense of adventure, forearmed with the local knowledge others normally don’t have time to acquire, may teach us to notice, may teach us to reflect upon Life itself and the life and lives that surround us.

Perhaps then our lives might be enriched.

Perhaps then we might finally see the world and the way we live in life-enhancing ways.

Life is too short and too precious for us to pass through it without leaving a few footprints behind us, without acquiring a few memories worth remembering.

A man’s experience in a certain place at a certain time must be unique, in some way different from the experience of others.

We need to leave a mark of the choices we make (or don’t make) that map our lives into the journeys they become.

These milestones, these footprints, are the actions we make in the moment, the ones that change our loves and our lives forever.

Henry David Thoreau wrote in the conclusion of Walden (his treatise on the succour to be found in a simple rural life away from the world of busy men):

If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer.

Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away.

Above: Henry David Thoreau (1817 – 1862)

Nevertheless, the question remains:

Why did you leave?

For ultimately you cannot escape yourself.

Wherever you go there you are.

When I was young, it seemed that life was so wonderful
A miracle, oh it was beautiful, magical
And all the birds in the trees, well they’d be singing so happily
Oh joyfully, playfully watching me
But then they send me away to teach me how to be sensible
Logical, oh responsible, practical
And they showed me a world where I could be so dependable
Oh clinical, oh intellectual, cynical

There are times when all the world’s asleep
The questions run too deep
For such a simple man
Won’t you please, please tell me what we’ve learned
I know it sounds absurd

Please tell me who I am

I said, watch what you say or they’ll be calling you a radical
Liberal, oh fanatical, criminal
Won’t you sign up your name, we’d like to feel you’re acceptable
Respectable, oh presentable, a vegetable
Oh, take it take it yeah

But at night, when all the world’s asleep
The questions run so deep
For such a simple man
Won’t you please tell me what we’ve learned
I know it sounds absurd
Please tell me who I am, who I am, who I am, who I am
‘Cause I was feeling so logical
D-d-digital
One, two, three, five
Oh, oh, oh, oh
It’s getting unbelievable

There’s a little black spot on the sun today
It’s the same old thing as yesterday
There’s a black hat caught in a high tree top
There’s a flag pole rag and the wind won’t stop
I have stood here before inside the pouring rain
With the world turning circles running ’round my brain
I guess I’m always hoping that you’ll end this reign
But it’s my destiny to be the king of pain

The Police musician Sting (Gordon Sumner) married actress Frances Tomelty on 1 May 1976.

They had two children: Joseph (born 23 November 1976) and Fuschia Katherine (“Kate“) (born 17 April 1982).

In 1980, Sting became a tax exile in Galway, Ireland.

Above: Sting

Galway (Irish: Gaillimh) is the county town of County Galway on the west coast of Ireland.

It is Ireland’s 4th largest city, with a population in 2016 of 79,934, but its historic centre on the east bank of the River Corrib is compact and colourful.

It is a party town, with live music and revellers spilling onto its pedestrianised central street.

It is also a base for exploring the scenic surrounding county.

It is a lively, buzzing colourful city that feels well-connected to the rest of the world.

Above: Images of Galway, Ireland

Eyre Square is the place to begin exploring the city, as it is the transport hub and with a cluster of hotels and eating places.

It is an attractive green space, with a pedestrianised shopping mall just south.

Artwork includes the “Galway Hooker” (a fountain styled like a traditional fishing boat), the Browne Doorway (from the house of one of the ruling families), and a bust of JF Kennedy who visited in 1963.

Above: Galway Hookers Fountain and Browne Doorway, Eyre Square, Galway, Ireland

The square is officially named after JFK but this never stuck.

Above: John F. Kennedy (1917 – 1963)

It has always been called Eyre Square after the mayor who presented this plot of land to the city in 1710.

And, may the saints preserve us, so shall it ever be.

Above: Eyre Square, Galway, Ireland

The historic spine of the city leads from Eyre Square southwest to the river, to William Street, then Shop Street, then High Street, then Quay Street, all pedestrianised, an agreeable stroll from park to pub to pub to eating place to pub.

At the top of Shop Street, Lynch’s Castle is a fine medieval town house, once home to the Lynch dynasty.

But nowadays it is a branch of Allied Irish Banks:

You are welcome to look in during opening hours, but there is not much to see.

Above: Lynch’s Castle, Galway, Ireland

The Claddagh Ring is a style of mani in fede finger ring:

Two hands join to clasp a heart.

It has been a design for wedding or engagement rings since medieval times, but it became a Galway tradition from 1700, when the jewellers worked near an Cladach, the city shore.

It became popular from the late 20th century, and legends were embellished around it as ingeniously as its designs.

Above: A Claddagh ring

The Claddagh Museum hews to the “Joyce” legend, after a man captured by Algerian corsairs who learned the design in captivity.

Above: Claddagh Museum, Galway, Ireland

He returned to Galway where of course his sweetheart had remained true.

Ah, love.

The heart is often surmounted by a crown, or isn’t, depending on your allegiances in that matter. 

Free is the museum.

(No, not the rings though).

Above: View of the Claddagh, Galway, Ireland

It is a collegiate church which doesn’t have a resident priest, but members of a seminary (a College of Vicars) take turns.

St Nicholas is the largest medieval church still in everyday use in Ireland.

It was founded in 1320 and enlarged over the following two centuries.

Above: St. Nicholas Collegiate Church, Galway, Ireland

It is dedicated to St Nicholas of Myra (modern Demre, Turkey) (circa 300 AD), patron saint of seafarers, and the story of Columbus worshipping here is credible.

Above: Nicholas of Myra (270 – 343)

Above: Photograph of the desecrated sarcophagus in the St. Nicholas Church, Demre, Turkey, where his bones were kept before they were removed and taken to Bari (Italy) in 1087

Above: Myra Rock Tombs, Demre, Turkey

Above: Christopher Columbus (1451 – 1506)

There are large tombs of the Lynch family, and a plaque at the Lynch memorial window claims to be the spot where 15th century mayor James hanged his own son Walter for killing a Spanish visitor, or so goes the tale.

Above: Lynch Memorial Window, St. Nicholas Collegiate Church, Galway, Ireland

In 2002 St Nick’s conducted the first blessing of a same-sex partnership (the Avowing Friendship Service for a lesbian couple) in an Irish church, but the Bishop prohibited any such unbiblical goings-on in future.

Above: LGBT rainbow flag

Although the church is Protestant (which it obviously wasn’t in Columbus’ day), in 2005 it was used by an RC congregation while their own St Augustine Church was refurbished.

It is also used for worship by the Romanian, Russian Orthodox and the Mar Thoma Syrian congregations.

When in Rome, as they say…..

It is X o’clock, what faith shall we follow now?

Above: Interior of St. Nicholas Collegiate Church, Galway, Ireland

The Hall of the Red Earl is the earliest medieval structure to be seen within the walls of the city.

It was built by the de Burgo family in the 13th century and was the main municipal building, acting as town hall, court house and tax collection office.

Above: Hall of the Red Earl as it once appeared

But a fragment is all that remains, protected behind glass, and it won’t take a minute to see.

The modern building adjoining is the base of Galway Civic Trust, and their guided walks through the city start here. 

Free.

Above: Ruins of the Hall of the Red Earl, Galway, Ireland

Medieval Galway had city walls, which, in 1584, were extended to protect the quays at the river outlet.

This extension, the Spanish Arch, known as “the head of the walls” (ceann an bhalla), is nowadays almost the only remnant of those walls.

In the 18th century the quays were extended, and two arches were cut in the walls to improve street access to the quays.

They were probably originally known as the “Eyre Arches“, but Galway was Ireland’s main port for trade with Spain and Portugal.

In 1755, the Lisbon Tsunami wrecked the arches, but one was later reopened, so they became known as the Spanish Arch and the Blind Arch.

It is a pleasant area to sit or stroll.

Above: Spanish Arch, Galway, Ireland

On the west bank of the River Corrib as it enters the sea is the ancient neighbourhood of The Claddagh.

For centuries it was an Irish-speaking enclave outside the city walls.

Claddagh residents were mainly fisher folk and were governed by an elected ‘King‘.

The King of the Claddagh settled or arbitrated disputes among the locals and had the privilege of a white sail on his fishing boat.

The last true king, Martin Oliver, died in 1972.

The title is still used but in a purely honorary and ceremonial context.

The current King is Michael Lynskey.

God save the King.

Long may he reign.

Above: Claddagh, Galway, Ireland

The Galway City Museum has three floors of galleries with seven long-term exhibitions on Galway’s archaeology, history and links to the sea.

Two halls have rotating exhibitions. 

The Museum has two main sections: one about the heritage of Galway and one about Irish artists from the second half of the 20th century.

Above: Galway City Museum

This Museum also houses the statue of the poet, Pádraic Ó Conaire, which was originally located in the Kennedy Park section of Eyre Square, prior to the Square’s renovation.

Free.

Above: Pádraic Ó Conaire (1882 – 1928)

Nora Barnacle (1884 – 1951) grew up in Galway and came to live here with her mother who had separated from Nora’s drunkard father.

Nora’s boyfriends had a habit of dying, so she left for Dublin where in 1904 she met James Joyce, and “knew him at once for just another Dublin jackeen chatting up a country girl“.

Soon she would have cause to bemoan his drinking, hanging about with artistic ne’er-do-wells, spendthrift ways, obscure nonsensical writing style, and his demands for English puddings.

Above: James Joyce family, Paris, 1924
Clockwise from top left –
James Joyce, Giorgio Joyce (1890 – 1976), Nora Barnacle, Lucia Joyce (1907 – 1982)

They lived mostly in Trieste and Paris then Zürich, where James died and Nora lived out her own final years.

Above: Statue of James Joyce (1882 – 1941), Trieste, Italy

Above: Plaque at rue de l’Odeon 12, Paris, France
In 1922, at this location, Mlle. Sylvia Beach published Ulysses by James Joyce

Above: James Joyce grave, Fluntern Cemetery, Zürich, Switzerland

Her house in Galway was a small museum – indeed, the smallest museum in all of Ireland – of Joyce memorabilia (including letters, but not the hotties), but was closed in 2020.

Above: Nora Barnacle House, Galway, Ireland

Above: Nora Barnacle House, Galway, Ireland

Galway Cathedral is Roman Catholic cathedral, built 1958-1965, on the site of an old prison.

It is an imposing limestone building in a mixture of retro-classical styles, which some detest.

The dome, pillars and round arches are Renaissance, while a Romanesque portico dominates the main façade.

Michael Browne (Bishop 1937-1976) published an account of the preparation, design, building work and layout.

The organ was re-conditioned in 2007 and recitals show off the acoustics.

There are regular masses, with one Sunday mass in Gaelic.

Above: Galway Cathedral, Galway, Ireland

The River Corrib flows for 6 km south from Lough Corrib to enter Galway Bay.

In 1178 the friars of Claire Galway cut a new channel out of the lough, east of the original outflow, and this became the main course of the river.

It passes the ruin of Menlo Castle to reach the northwest edge of the city at a salmon weir:

Watch them swim upriver in early summer.

The last kilometre of the river is very fast, great for driving waterwheels but not navigable, so the Eglinton Canal was cut in the 19th century, with swing bridges, locks, and side-races for mills.

The swing bridges have been replaced by fixed bridges so the Canal is no longer navigable except by kayak.

Above: Salmon Weir Bridge, Corrib River, Galway, Ireland

University Quad was the original quadrangle of the college that opened in 1849 and became one of the three colleges of Queens University of Ireland (the others being Belfast and Cork).

Since 1997, it has been known as the National University of Ireland Galway.

The Quad buildings are in mock Tudor Gothic style modelled on Oxford’s Christ Church, so their aspirations are clear.

They are nowadays the admin offices of a huge modern campus stretching from the river and canal to Newcastle Road, then continuing west of that as University Hospital. 

Free.

Above: Coat of arms of the Queen’s University of Ireland

The Promenade is the main shoreline attraction, stretching for 2 km into Salthill.

Traditionally you turned around once you had kicked the wall at the two-level diving platform at the junction of Threadneedle Road.

Lots of pubs and B&Bs along here.

It has long been hoped to extend the promenade west to Silverstrand, and to reinforce the crumbling coast against sea erosion.

By 2015, this plan had reached design stage, but with no prospect of the funding that would enable it to go to tender, and it has all gone very quiet since then.

So you can pick your own way along the headland west of Salthill but there is no paved promenade.

Above: The Promenade, Galway, Ireland

Galway Atlantaquaria is a large aquarium that majors on local marine life, so you will see sharks.

But they are Irish sharks and proud of it.

Staff display the various beasties:

Care to cuddle a huge crab? 

Mutton Island is connected to the mainland at Claddagh by a one-kilometre causeway.

(Don’t confuse it with Mutton Island off Quilty in County Clare.)

It is popular for wedding photos taking in the lighthouse foreground and cityscape background, while artfully avoiding the sewage plant.

Above: Mutton Island, Galway, Ireland

Fort Hill Cemetery, on Lough Atalia Road, is the oldest cemetery still in use in Galway City.

Inside the main gate is a memorial to sailors of the Spanish Armada who were buried here in the 1580s.

Above: Forthill, Galway, Ireland

Above: Spanish Armada sailors memorial

Above: English ships and the Spanish Armada

Rahoon Cemetery (officially known as Mount St. Joseph Cemetery), Rahoon Road, on the western edge of the city affords splendid panoramic views of the city.

Above: Rahoon Cemetery, Galway, Ireland

Among the people buried here are: 

  • Michael Bodkin (an admirer of Nora Barnacle who was the inspiration for James Joyce’s character, “Michael Furey” in The Dead

Above: Grave of Michael Bodkin

  • Michael Feeney (the “lover” in Joyce’s poem She Weeps Over Rahoon)

  • actress Siobhán McKenna 

Above: Siobhán McKenna (1922 – 1986)

Bohermore Cemetery (or the New Cemetery, as it is more popularly known), Cemetery Cross, Bohermore, was opened in 1880.

Above: Bohermore Cemetery, Galway, Ireland

It contains two mortuary chapels and is the burial place of several important Galwegians, including: 

  • Pádraic Ó Conaire, the Gaelic author 

  • William Joyce, more widely known as Lord Haw-Haw the Nazi propagandist 

Above: William Joyce (1906 – 1946)

  • Augusta, Lady Gregory, co-founder of the Abbey Theatre in Dublin

Above: Lady Augusta Gregory (1852 – 1932)

Above: Abbey Theatre, Dublin, Ireland

  • Michael Morris, 3rd Baron Killanin, a senior member of one of the Tribes of Galway and former world president of the International Olympic Committee

Above: Lord Killanin (1914 – 1999)

  • A memorial to the 91 people who died on 14 August 1959, when Dutch KLM Flight 607-E crashed into the sea 180 km (112 mi) west of Galway, can be seen just inside the main gates. Several bodies of the passengers are buried around the memorial.

Galway is known as Ireland’s Cultural Heart (Croí Cultúrtha na hÉireann) and hosts numerous festivals, celebrations and events.

Every November, Galway hosts the Tulca Festival of Visual Arts, as well as numerous festivals.

On 1 December 2014, the Director General of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) announced the official designation of Galway as a UNESCO City of Film.

In 2004, there were three dance organisations, ten festival companies, two film organisations, two Irish language organisations, 23 musical organisations, twelve theatre companies, two visual arts groups, and four writers’ groups based in the city.

Furthermore, there were 51 venues for events, most of which were specialised for a certain field (e.g. concert venues or visual arts galleries), though ten were described as being ‘multiple event‘ venues.

In 2007, Galway was named as one of the eight sexiest cities in the world.

Above: Galway, Ireland

A 2008 poll ranked Galway as the 42nd best tourist destination in the world, or 14th in Europe and 2nd in Ireland (behind Dingle).

Above: Strand Street, Dingle, Ireland

It was ranked ahead of all European capitals except Edinburgh, and many traditional tourist destinations (such as Venice).

Above: Edinburgh, Scotland

Above: Images of Venice, Italy

The New Zealand Herald listed Galway as one of ‘five great cities to visit in 2014‘.

Galway has a vibrant and varied musical scene. 

Galway and its people are mentioned in several songs, including Ed Sheeran’s Galway Girl (2017).

Above: Cover art, Galway Girl, Ed Sheeran

Many sporting, music, arts and other events take place in the city.

Galway has a diverse sporting heritage, with a history in sports ranging from horse racing, Gaelic games, soccer and rugby to rowing, basketball, motorsport, greyhound racing and others.)

Above: Galway Races

Above: Galway hurling

Above: Galway United Football Club badge

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

(A tax exile is a person who leaves a country to avoid the payment of income tax or other taxes.

It is a person who already owes money to the tax authorities or wishes to avoid being liable in the future to taxation at what they consider high tax rates, instead choosing to reside in a foreign country or jurisdiction which has no taxes or lower tax rates.

In general, there is no extradition agreement between countries which covers extradition for outstanding tax liabilities.

Going into tax exile is a form of tax mitigation or avoidance.

A tax exile normally cannot return to their home country without being subject to outstanding tax liabilities, which may prevent them from leaving the country until they have been paid.

Most countries tax individuals who are resident in their jurisdiction.

Though residency rules vary, most commonly individuals are resident in a country for taxation purposes if they spend at least six months (or some other period) in any one tax year in the country, and/or have an abiding attachment to the country, such as owning a fixed property.)

Switzerland has seen its share of tax exiles from other lands.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Noel Coward left the UK for tax reasons in the 1950s, receiving harsh criticism in the press. 

He first settled in Bermuda but later bought houses in Jamaica and Switzerland (in the village of Les Avants, near Montreux), which remained his homes for the rest of his life.

Above: Noel Coward (1899 – 1973)

David Bowie moved from the United Kingdom to Switzerland in 1976, first settling in Blonay and then Lausanne in 1982.

Above: David Bowie (1947 – 2016)

Roger Moore became a tax exile from the United Kingdom in 1978, originally to Switzerland, and divided his year between his three homes: an apartment in Monte Carlo, Monaco, a chalet in Crans-Montana, Switzerland and a home in the south of France.

Above: Roger Moore (1927 – 2017)

In April 2009, the Sunday Times Rich List estimated Sting‘s wealth at £175 million and ranked him the 322nd wealthiest person in Britain.

A decade later, Sting was estimated to have a fortune of £320 million in the 2019 Sunday Times Rich List, making him one of the ten wealthiest people in the British music industry.

In 1982, after the birth of his second child, Sting separated from Tomelty.

Above: Wedding of Sting and Frances Tomelty

Above: Trudie Styler and Sting

The split was controversial.

As The Independent reported in 2006:

Tomelty just happened to be Trudie’s best friend.

Sting and Frances lived next door to Trudie in Bayswater, West London, for several years before the two of them became lovers.

When you take the Tube in London you get from A to B very quickly.

It is undoubtedly efficient and much more practical when it comes to getting to and from work, but it is utterly hopeless when it comes to developing a sense of the place.

This is why London is so daunting for tourists, for the Tube leaves the tourist with mere snippets of memories of disparate places that have no obvious link.

London is a mish-mash of postcard pictures, each surrounded by…..

Nothing at all.

Above: Map of the London Underground

Above: The nickname “Tube” comes from the almost circular tube-like tunnels through which the small profile trains travel.

Above: London, England

The multiplication of technologies in the name of efficiency is actually eradicating free time by making it possible to maximize the time and place for production and minimize the unstructured time in between.

New timesaving technologies make most workers more productive, not more free, in a world that seems to be accelerating around them.

Too, the rhetoric of efficiency around these technologies suggests that what cannot be quantified cannot be valued – that that vast array of pleasures which fall into the category of doing nothing in particular, of woolgathering, cloud-gazing, wandering, window-shopping, are nothing but voids to be filled by something more definite, more productive, or faster-paced….

The indeterminacy of a ramble, on which much may be discovered, is being replaced by the determinate shortest distance to be traversed with all possible speed, as well as by the electronic transmissions that make real travel less necessary….

Technology has its uses, but I fear its false urgency, its call to speed, its insistence that travel is less important than arrival.

I like walking because it is slow and I suspect that the mind, like the feet, works at about three miles an hour.

If this is so, then modern life is moving faster than the speed of thought, or thoughtfulness.

Walking is about being outside, in public space, and public space is also being abandoned and eroded in older cities, eclipsed by technologies and services that don’t require leaving home, and shadowed by fear in many places (and strange places are always more frightening than known ones, so the less one wanders the city the more alarming it becomes, while the fewer the wanderers the more lonely and dangerous it really becomes).

Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking

The news, with its stories of crime-ridden chaos, leave the London of the brain flitting between terror and tourist cliché.

All its magic and history seems lost.

But take the time to walk around London, through all its parks, and you will begin to piece together the way one part of London ends and another begins.

Get lost and let serendipity show you forgotten corners and shadowy streets that are the London between Tube stations.

You might even pick up a sense of the contours that cities do a good job of hiding.

Maps are of little practical use without a landscape and a sense of place.

The slower the journey, the greater sense of meaning, the more meaningful the experience.

Historic, sprawling, sleepless London can be a wonderful place to visit, a wonderful place to live.

Monuments from the English capital’s glorious past are everywhere, from medieval banqueting halls to the great churches of Christopher Wren.

Above: Christopher Wren (1632 – 1723)

Above: St. Paul’s Cathedral, London, England

The modern skyline is dominated by a new generation of eye-grabbing, cloud-scratching, skyscrapers, colossal companions of Ferris wheels and giant walkie talkies.

Above: London Eye

Whether you spend your time relaxing in Bloomsbury’s quiet Georgian squares, drinking real ale in a Docklands riverside pub or checking out Peckham’s galleries, you can discover a London that is still identifiably a collection of villages, each with a distinct personality.

London is incredibly diverse, offering cultural and culinary delights from all around the world.

Above: Bloomsbury Square, London, England

Above: Docklands, London, England

Above: Peckham, London, England

Certainly, London is big.

In fact, it once was the largest capital city in the European Union (pre-Brexit), stretching for more than 30 miles from east to west, with a population fast approaching 9 million.

Above: Flag of the European Union

Above: Brexit flag

London’s traditional landmarks – Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Tower of London, and the like – continue to draw in millions of tourists every year.

Things change fast, though, and the regular emergence of new attractions ensures that there is plenty (too much) to do even for those who have visited before.

Above: Clock Tower, Westminster Palace, London, England

Above: Aerial view of Buckingham Palace, London, England

Above: St. Paul’s Cathedral during the Blitz, 29 December 1940

Above: Aerial view of the Tower of London

London’s museums, galleries and institutions are constantly reinventing themselves, from the V & A (Victoria and Albert) to the British Museum.

Above: Victoria and Albert Museum entrance, London, England

Above: Aerial view of the British Museum, London, England

The City boasts the Tate Modern (the world’s largest modern art museum) and the Shard (Europe’s highest building).

Above: Tate Modern, London, England

Above: The Shard, London, England

But the biggest problem for newcomers remains:

London is bewilderingly amorphous.

Local Londoners cope with this by compartmentalizing the City (and themselves), identifying strongly with the neighbourhoods in which they work and/or live, only making occasional forays outside of their comfort zones when shopping or entertainment beckons.

Above: Tower Bridge, London, England

The solution to discovering a place for what it truly is may be found by simply wandering.

In a city, every building, every storefront, opens onto a different world, compressing all the variety of human life into a jumble of possibilities made rich by all its complexities and contradictions.

The ordinary offers wonder and the people on the street are a multitude of glimpses into lives utterly different from your own.

Cities offer anonymity, variety and conjunction, qualities best basked in by walking.

A city is greater than its parts and contains more than any inhabitant will ever possibly know.

A great city makes the unknown possible and spurs the imagination.

Above: London, England

There are fewer greater delights than to walk up and down them in the evening alone with thousands of other people, up and down, relishing the lights coming through the trees or shining from the facades, listening to the sounds of music and foreign voices and traffic, enjoying the smell of flowers and good food and the air from the nearby sea.

The sidewalks are lined with small shops, bars, stalls, dance halls, movies, booths lighted by acetylene lamps.

And everywhere are strange faces, strange costumes, strange and delightful impressions.

To walk up such a street into the quieter, more formal part of town, is to be part of a procession, part of a ceaseless ceremony of being initiated into the city and rededicating the city itself.

J.B. Jackson, The Stranger’s Path

Above: John Brinckerhoff Jackson (1909 – 1996)

People and places become one another and this kind of realism can only be gained by walking.

Above: Tramway, Eskişehir, Turkey

Allow me to introduce myself – first negatively.

No landlord is my friend and brother, no chambermaid loves me, no waiter worships me, no boots admires and envies me.

No round of beef or tongue or ham is expressly cooked for me, no pigeon pie is especially made for me, no hotel-advertisement is personally addressed to me, no hotel room tapestried with great coats and railway wrappers is set apart for me, no house of public entertainment in the United Kingdom greatly cares for my opinion of its brandy or sherry.

When I go upon my journeys, I am not usually rated at a low figure in the bill.

When I come home from my journeys, I never get any commission.

I know nothing about prices, and should have no idea, if I were put to it, how to wheedle a man into ordering something he doesn’t want.

As a town traveller, I am never to be seen driving a vehicle externally like a young and volatile pianoforte van, and internally like an oven in which a number of flat boxes are baking in layers.

As a country traveller, I am rarely to be found in a gig, and am never to be encountered by a pleasure train, waiting on the platform of a branch station, quite a Druid in the midst of a light Stonehenge of samples.

And yet – proceeding now, to introduce myself positively – I am both a town traveller and a country traveller, and am always on the road.

Figuratively speaking, I travel for the great house of Human Interest Brothers, and have rather a large connection in the fancy goods way.

Literally speaking, I am always wandering here and there from my rooms in Covent Garden, London – now about the city streets: now, about the country by-roads – seeing many little things, and some great things, which, because they interest me, I think may interest others.

These are my chief credentials as the Uncommercial Traveller.”

There is a subtle state most dedicated urban walkers know, a sort of basking in solitude – a dark solitude punctuated with encounters as the night sky is punctuated with stars.

In the country, one’s solitude is geographical – one is altogether outside society, so solitude has a sensible geographical explanation and there is a kind of communion with the nonhuman.

In the city, one is alone because the world is made up of strangers.

To be a stranger surrounded by strangers, to walk along silently bearing one’s secrets and imagining those of the people one passes, is among the starkest of luxuries.

The uncharted identity with its illimitable possibilities is one of the distinctive qualities of urban living, a liberatory state for those who come to emancipate themselves from family and community expectation, to experiment with subculture and identity.

It is an observer’s state, cool, withdrawn, with senses sharpened, a good state for anybody who needs to reflect and create.

In small doses, melancholy, alienation and introspection are among life’s most refined pleasures.

Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking

It was Dr Samuel Johnson, the man many thank for our modern dictionary, who wrote in the 18th century:

You find no man, at all intellectual, who is willing to leave London.

Sir, when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life.

For there is in London all that life can afford.

Above: Samuel Johnson (1709 – 1784)

Above: Dr. Johnson’s House, London, England

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

There’s a little black spot on the sun today, that’s my soul up there
It’s the same old thing as yesterday, that’s my soul up there
There’s a black hat caught in a high tree top, that’s my soul up there
There’s a flag pole rag and the wind won’t stop, that’s my soul up there
I have stood here before inside the pouring rain
With the world turning circles running ’round my brain
I guess I’m always hoping that you’ll end this reign
But it’s my destiny to be the king of pain

Actually, it was something I said.

I’d just left my first wife – a very painful break – and I went to Jamaica to try and pull myself together.

I was fortunate to be able to go to Jamaica, I have to say, and stayed at this nice house and was looking at the sun one day.

I was with Trudie, who is now my current wife, and said:

“Look, there’s a little black spot on the sun today.”

And there’s a pause.

I said:

“That’s my soul up there.”

I was full of hyperbole.

I said that.

I went back in and wrote it down.

Above: Flag of Jamaica

Jamaica is the Caribbean country that comes with its own soundtrack, a singular rhythm beyond its beaches and resorts.

This tiny island has musical roots that reach back to the folk songs of West Africa and forward to the electronic beats of contemporary dance.

Jamaica is a musical powerhouse, which is reflected not only in the bass of the omnipresent sound systems that bombard the island, but in the lyricism of the patois language and the gospel harmonies that rise from the nation’s many churches.

Music is life and life is music in Jamaica.

And only those tone deaf to the rhythm of life fail to be swayed by its beat.

Jamaica is a powerfully beautiful island, a land of crystalline waters flowing over gardens of coral, lapping onto soft sandy beaches, rising past red soil and lush banana groves into sheer mountains.

Waterfalls surprise, appearing out of nowhere, ever present seemingly everywhere.

Jamaica is a great green garden of a land.

Understand the island’s cyclical rhythms that set the pace of Jamaican life and you may then begin to understand Jamaican culture.

You may discover that the country has a rhythm filled with concepts hidden from your understanding, but Jamaica will teach your heart to dance to its pace.

Nature is a language and Jamaica is one of its dialects.

Understanding its language we begin to experience Jamaica.

Climb the peak of Blue Mountain by sunrise, your path lit by the sparks of a myriad of fireflies.

Above: Blue Mountain, Jamaica

Attending a nightclub or a street dance, Kingston nightlife is a sweaty, lively, no-holds-barred event.

Dance, bump and grind, o ye young and young at heart.

Dance till dawn, doze till dusk, do it all again.

Above: Kingston, Jamaica night

Walk the snowy sands of Negril’s Seven Mile Beach.

Wander past the nude sunbathers.

See the sun sink behind the horizon in a fiery ball.

Plunge into the ocean to scrub your soul.

Fend off the hustlers offering redemption.

Dive into the cerulean waters that caress the cliffs.

Above: Negril, Jamaica

Get into reggae, cowboy.

On Jamaica’s east coast, past stretches of jungle and beach that is completely off the radar of most tourists, look to the hills for one of the island’s most beautiful cascades, Reach Falls.

Clamber up slippery rocks, over neon green moss and into cool mountain pools of the freshest spring water.

Dive under tunnels and through blizzards of snow white cascading foam.

Celebrate life.

Above: Reach Falls, Portland, Jamaica

Remember Marley in Bob’s creaky Kingston home crammed with memorabilia.

Above: Bob Marley (1945 – 1981)

These will not move you.

Above: Bob Marley statue, Kingston, Jamaica

Above: Bob Marley House, Kingston, Jamaica

Instead you will be drawn to his untouched bedroom adorned with objects of spiritual significance to the artist, to the small kitchen where he cooked, to the hammock in which he lay to seek inspiration from the distant mountains, to the room riddled with bullet holes where he and his wife almost died in an assassination attempt.

The quiet intimacy and the modest personal effects speak eloquently of Bob Marley’s turbulent life.

Above: Bedroom, Bob Marley House, Kingston, Jamaica

A treasure island needs a Treasure Beach.

Here, instead of huge all-inclusive resorts, you will find quiet, friendly guesthouses, artsy enclaves dreamed up by theatre set designers, Rasta retreats favoured by budget backpackers, and private villas that are some of the classiest, most elegant luxury residences in the country.

Above: Treasure Beach, Jamaica

The sleepy fishing village of Port Royal hints of past glories that made it the pirate capital of the Caribbean and once the “wickedest city on Earth“.

Above: Old Port Royal

Follow in the footsteps of pirate Sir Henry Morgan along the battlements of Fort Charles, still lined with cannons to repel invaders.

Above: Henry Morgan (1635 – 1688)

Above: Fort Charles, Port Royal, Jamaica

Become disoriented inside the Giddy House artillery store, a structure tipped at a jaunty angle.

Above: Giddy House, Port Royal, Jamaica

Admire the treasures in the Maritime Museum, rescued from the deep after 2/3 of the town sank beneath the waves in the monstrous 1692 earthquake.

Above: Port Royal, Jamaica

The resorts of Montego Bay are indeed crowded with people, but wait until you dive into the surrounding waters.

The waters are crowded, but not with bathers.

The sea is alive with a kaleidoscope of multicoloured fish and swaying sponges.

And yet despite all the tropical pastels and cool blue hues, this is a subdued seascape, a silent and delicate marine ecosystem.

Electricity for the eyes and a milestone of memory for those fortunate enough to have come here.

Above: Montego Bay, Jamaica

The best sea walls are to be found at the Point, while more advanced divers should explore the ominous (and gorgeous) Widow Makers Cave.

Above: Widowmakers Cave, Jamaica

Cockpit Country in the island’s interior is some of the most rugged terrain throughout the Caribbean, a series of jungle-clad round hills intersected by powerfully deep and sheer valleys.

Rain gathers in these mountains and water percolates through the rocks, creating an Emmental Swiss cheese of sinkholes and caves.

Above: Cockpit Country, Jamaica

Since most of the trails here are badly overgrown, the best way to appreciate the place is to hike the old Barbecue Bottom Road along its eastern edge or go spelunking in the Printed Circuit Cave.

Above: Barbecue Bottom Road, Cockpit Country, Jamaica

Above: Printed Circuit Cave, Jamaica

Set off by boat in the Black River Great Morass, gliding past spidery mangroves and trees breaded with Spanish moss, whilst white egrets flap overhead.

Local women sell bags of spicy “swimp” (shrimp) on the riverside as they point to a beautiful grinning crocodile cruising by.

Above: Black River Great Morass, Jamaica

The best experiences in Jamaica are extremely sensory affairs, but Boston Bay may be the only one that is more defined by smell than sight or sound.

It may be the birthplace of jerk, the spice rub that is Jamaica’s most famous contribution to the culinary arts.

Above: Jerk chicken

The turnoff to Boston Bay, a lovely beach, is lined with jerk stalls that produce smoked meats that redefine what heat and sweet can do as complementary gastronomic qualities.

Jerk is much like Jamaica:

Freaking amazing.

Above: Boston Bay Beach, Jamaica

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

Above: Happy, Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs

There’s a fossil that’s trapped in a high cliff wall, that’s my soul up there
There’s a dead salmon frozen in a waterfall, that’s my soul up there
There’s a blue whale beached by a springtide’s ebb, that’s my soul up there
There’s a butterfly trapped in a spider’s web, that’s my soul up there
I have stood here before inside the pouring rain
With the world turning circles running ’round my brain
I guess I’m always hoping that you’ll end this reign
But it’s my destiny to be the king of pain

King of Pain” was released as the second single in the US and the fourth single in the UK, taken from the Police‘s 5th and final album, Synchronicity (1983).

The song was released after the eight-week appearance of “Every Breath You Take” on top of the charts. 

Sting‘s fascination with Carl Jung and, to a greater extent, Arthur Koestler inspired him to write the track.

There’s a king on a throne with his eyes torn out
There’s a blind man looking for a shadow of doubt
There’s a rich man sleeping on a golden bed
There’s a skeleton choking on a crust of bread

Carl Gustav Jung (1875 – 1961) was a Swiss psychiatrist and psychoanalyst who founded analytical psychology.

Above: Carl Jung

Jung’s work has been influential in the fields of psychiatry, anthropology, archaeology, literature, philosophy, psychology, and religious studies.

Jung worked as a research scientist at Zürich’s famous Burghölzli Hospital.

Above: Klinik Burghölzli, Zürich, Switzerland

During this time, he came to the attention of Sigmund Freud, the founder of psychoanalysis.

The two men conducted a lengthy correspondence and collaborated, for a while, on a joint vision of human psychology.

Freud saw the younger Jung as the heir he had been seeking to take forward his “new science” of psychoanalysis and to this end secured his appointment as president of his newly founded International Psychoanalytical Association.

Above: Sigmund Freud (1856 – 1939)

Jung’s research and personal vision, however, made it impossible for him to follow his older colleague’s doctrine and a schism became inevitable.

This division was personally painful for Jung and resulted in the establishment of Jung’s analytical psychology as a comprehensive system separate from psychoanalysis.

Among the central concepts of analytical psychology is individuation — the lifelong psychological process of differentiation of the self out of each individual’s conscious and unconscious elements.

Jung considered it to be the main task of human development.

He created some of the best known psychological concepts, including synchronicity, archetypal phenomena, the collective unconscious, the psychological complex, extraversion and introversion.

Jung was also an artist, craftsman, builder and a prolific writer.

Many of his works were not published until after his death and some are still awaiting publication.

Above: Jung outside Burghölzli in 1910

I cannot say that I completely understand or agree with Jungian theory.

Take collective unconsciousness as an example.

According to Jung, whereas an individual’s personal unconscious is made up of thoughts and emotions which have, at some time, been experienced or held in mind, but which have been repressed or forgotten, in contrast, the collective unconscious is neither acquired by activities within an individual’s life, nor a container of things that are thoughts, memories or ideas which are capable of being conscious during one’s life.

The contents of it were never naturally “known” through physical or cognitive experience and then forgotten.

Above: Carl Jung’s Black Book

In more ways than one, these ideas are too deep for me.

According to Jung, the collective unconscious consists of universal heritable elements common to all humans, distinct from other species.

It encapsulates fields of evolutionary biology, history of civilization, ethnology, brain and nervous system development, and general psychological development.

Considering its composition in practical physiological and psychological terms, Jung wrote:

It consists of pre-existent forms, the archetypes, which can only become conscious secondarily and which give definite form to certain psychic contents.”

Jung wrote about causal factors in personal psychology, as stemming from, influenced by an abstraction of the impersonal physical layer, the common and universal physiology among all humans.

Where upon this point my response is at a Homer Simpson level of incomprehension and incredulity.

Above: Homer Simpson, The Simpsons

Jung considers that science would hardly deny the existence and basic nature of ‘instincts‘, existing as a whole set of motivating urges.

The collective unconscious acts as the frame where science can distinguish individual motivating urges, thought to be universal across all individuals of the human species, while instincts are present in all species.

Jung contends:

The hypothesis of the collective unconscious is, therefore, no more daring than to assume there are instincts.”

So, it’s not my fault, blame my instincts?

The archetype is a concept “borrowed” from anthropology to denote a process of nature.

Jung’s definitions of archetypes varied over time and have been the subject of debate as to their usefulness. 

Archetypal images, also referred to as motifs in mythology, are universal symbols that can mediate opposites in the psyche, are often found in religious art, mythology and fairy tales across cultures.

Jung saw archetypes as pre-configurations in nature that give rise to repeating, understandable, describable experiences.

In addition the concept takes into account the passage of time and of patterns resulting from transformation.

Archetypes are said to exist independently of any current event or its effect.

They are said to exert influence both across all domains of experience and throughout the stages of each individual’s unique development.

Being in part based on heritable physiology, they are thought to have “existed” since humans became a differentiated species.

They have been deduced through the development of storytelling over tens of thousands of years, indicating repeating patterns of individual and group experience, behaviours and effects across the planet, apparently displaying common themes.

Our history is a story and the expression of that story determines or results from our psychology?

Above: The Thinker, Auguste Rodin, Paris, France

According to Jung, there are “as many archetypes as there are typical situations in life“. 

He asserted that they have a dynamic mutual influence on one another.

Their alleged presence could be extracted from thousand-year-old narratives, from comparative religion and mythology.

Above: Memories, dreams and reflections, Carl Jung

So, as Leonard Cohen suggests:

Let us compare mythologies?

Above: Leonard Cohen (1934 – 2016)

According to Jung, the shadow exists as part of the unconscious mind and is composed of the traits individuals instinctively or consciously resist identifying as their own and would rather ignore, typically: repressed ideas, weaknesses, desires, instincts and shortcomings.

Above: Psychology of the Unconscious, Carl Jung

I wish I could repress my weaknesses and shortcomings!

Above: Scene from A Knight’s Tale

Much of the shadow comes as a result of an individual’s adaptation to cultural norms and expectations.

Thus, this archetype not only consists of all the things deemed unacceptable by society, but also those that are not aligned with one’s own personal morals and values.

Jung argues that the shadow plays a distinctive role in balancing one’s overall psyche, the counter-balancing to consciousness – “where there is light, there must also be shadow“.

Without a well-developed shadow (often “shadow work“, “integrating one’s shadow“), an individual can become shallow and extremely preoccupied with the opinions of others – that is, a walking persona.

Not wanting to look at their shadows directly, Jung argues, often results in psychological projection.

Individuals project imagined attitudes onto others without awareness.

The qualities an individual may hate (or love) in another, may be manifestly present in the individual, who does not see the external, material truth.

Above: Psychological Types, Carl Jung

Sounds like the old adage:

When I point my finger at you, three fingers of my hand are pointing back at me.

In order to truly grow as an individual, Jung believed that both the persona (the person we project?) and the shadow (who we really are?) should be balanced.

The shadow can appear in dreams or visions, often taking the form of a dark, wild, exotic figure.

The Shadow knows?

Jung was one of the first people to define introversion and extraversion in a psychological context.

In Jung’s Psychological Types, he theorizes that each person falls into one of two categories:

The introvert or the extravert.

The introvert is focused on the internal world of reflection, dreaming and vision.

Thoughtful and insightful, the introvert can sometimes be uninterested in joining the activities of others.

The extravert is interested in joining the activities of the world.

The extravert is focused on the outside world of objects, sensory perception and action.

Energetic and lively, the extravert may lose their sense of self in the intoxication of Dionysian pursuits.

Jungian introversion and extraversion is quite different from the modern idea of introversion and extraversion.

Modern theories often stay true to behaviourist means of describing such a trait (sociability, talkativeness, assertiveness, etc.), whereas Jungian introversion and extraversion are expressed as a perspective:

Introverts interpret the world subjectively, whereas extraverts interpret the world objectively.

By both the modern as well as the Jungian definition, I cannot decide whether I am an extraverted introvert or an introverted extravert.

In Jung’s psychological theory, the persona appears as a consciously created personality or identity, fashioned out of part of the collective psyche through socialization, acculturation and experience.

Jung applied the term persona, explicitly because, in Latin, it means both personality and the masks worn by Roman actors of the classical period, expressive of the individual roles played.

The persona, he argues, is a mask for the “collective psyche“, a mask that ‘pretends‘ individuality, so that both self and others believe in that identity, even if it is really no more than a well-played role through which the collective psyche is expressed.

Jung regarded the “persona-mask” as a complicated system which mediates between individual consciousness and the social community:

It is “a compromise between the individual and society as to what a man should appear to be“. 

But he also makes it quite explicit that it is, in substance, a character mask in the classical sense known to theatre, with its double function:

Both intended to make a certain impression on others and to hide (part of) the true nature of the individual.

The therapist then aims to assist the individuation process through which the client (re)gains their “own self” – by liberating the self, both from the deceptive cover of the persona, and from the power of unconscious impulses.

Jung has become enormously influential in management theory:

Not just because managers and executives have to create an appropriate “management persona” (a corporate mask) and a persuasive identity, but also because they have to evaluate what sort of people the workers are, to manage them (for example, using personality tests and peer reviews).

Above: Cover art, “Who are you?“, The Who

Jung’s work on himself and his patients convinced him that life has a spiritual purpose beyond material goals.

Our main task, he believed, is to discover and fulfill our deep, innate potential.

Based on his study of Christianity, Hinduism, Buddhism, Gnosticism, Taoism, and other traditions, Jung believed that this journey of transformation, which he called individuation, is at the mystical heart of all religions.

It is a journey to meet the self and at the same time to meet the Divine.

He believed that spiritual experience was essential to our well-being, as he specifically identified individual human life with the universe as a whole.

Above: Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

In 1959, Jung was asked by host John Freeman on the BBC interview program Face to Face whether he believed in God, to which Jung answered:

I do not need to believe.

I know.

Jung’s idea of religion as a practical road to individuation is still treated in modern textbooks on the psychology of religion, though his ideas have also been criticized.

Above: Carl Jung (left) and John Freeman (right), 1959

Jung had an apparent interest in the paranormal and occult. 

Jung’s ideas about the paranormal culminated in “synchronicity” – the idea that certain coincidences manifest in the world and have exceptionally intense meaning to observers.

Such coincidences have great effect on the observer from multiple cumulative aspects:

  • from the immediate personal relevance of the coincidence to the observer
  • from the peculiarities of (the nature of, the character, novelty, curiosity of) any such coincidence
  • from the sheer improbability of the coincidence, having no apparent causal link

Despite his own experiments he failed to confirm the phenomenon.

Jung proposed that art can be used to alleviate or contain feelings of trauma, fear, or anxiety and also to repair, restore and heal.

In his work with patients and his own personal explorations, Jung wrote that art expression and images found in dreams could help recover from trauma and emotional distress.

At times of emotional distress, he often drew, painted, or made objects and constructions which he recognized as more than recreational.

Above: An art therapist watches over a person with mental health problems during an art therapy workshop in Dakar, Senegal

Jung stressed the importance of individual rights in a person’s relation to the state and society.

He saw that the state was treated as “a quasi-animate personality from whom everything is expected” but that this personality was “only camouflage for those individuals who know how to manipulate it”, and referred to the state as a form of slavery.

He also thought that the state “swallowed up people’s religious forces“, and therefore that the state had “taken the place of God“— making it comparable to a religion in which “state slavery is a form of worship“.

Jung observed that “stage acts of the state” are comparable to religious displays:

Brass bands, flags, banners, parades and monster demonstrations are no different in principle from ecclesiastical processions, cannonades and fire to scare off demons.

Above: Nuremburg Rally, 5 – 10 September 1934

From Jung’s perspective, this replacement of God with the state in a mass society leads to the dislocation of the religious drive and results in the same fanaticism of the church-states of the Dark Ages — wherein the more the state is ‘worshipped‘, the more freedom and morality are suppressed.

This ultimately leaves the individual psychically undeveloped with extreme feelings of marginalization.

In the 1936 essayWotan, Jung described the influence of Adolf Hitler on Germany as “one man who is obviously ‘possessed’ has infected a whole nation to such an extent that everything is set in motion and has started rolling on its course towards perdition.

He would later say, during a lengthy interview with H.R. Knickerbocker in October 1938:

Hitler seemed like the ‘double’ of a real person, as if Hitler the man might be hiding inside like an appendix, and deliberately so concealed in order not to disturb the mechanism.

You know you could never talk to this man.

Because there is nobody there.

It is not an individual.

It is an entire nation.

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

There’s a red fox torn by a huntsman’s pack
(That’s my soul up there)
There’s a black-winged gull with a broken back
(That’s my soul up there)
There’s a little black spot on the sun today
It’s the same old thing as yesterday

Arthur Koestler (1905 – 1983) was a Hungarian British Jewish author and journalist.

Above: Arthur Koestler

Koestler was born in Budapest and, apart from his early school years, was educated in Austria.

In 1931, Koestler joined the Communist Party of Germany, but he resigned in 1938 because Stalinism disillusioned him.

Above: Symbol of the German Communist Party

Having moved to Britain in 1940, he published his novel Darkness at Noon, an anti-totalitarian work that gained him international fame.

Over the next 43 years, Koestler espoused many political causes and wrote novels, memoirs, biographies, and numerous essays.

In 1949, Koestler began secretly working with a British Cold War anti-communist propaganda department known as the Information Research Department (IRD), which would republish and distribute many of his works, and also fund his activities.

Above: Carlton House Terrace, London, England – the original home of the Information Research Department’s propaganda activities, it was the location of the German Embassy until 1945

In 1968, he was awarded the Sonning Prize “for his outstanding contribution to European culture“.

In 1972, he was made a Commander of the Order of the British Empire (CBE).

Above: CBE medal

In 1976, he was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease and in 1979 with terminal leukaemia.

On 1 March 1983, Koestler and his wife Cynthia jointly committed suicide at their London home by swallowing lethal quantities of barbiturate-based Tuinal capsules.

Above: Arthur Koestler (1905 – 1983)

As a Hungarian-born novelist who resided in England, Koestler was enthralled with parapsychology and the unexplained workings of the mind.

(He wrote the book titled The Ghost in the Machine in the late ’60s, after which the Police named their 4th album).

I’ve stood here before inside the pouring rain
With the world turning circles running ’round my brain
I guess I’m always hoping that you’ll end this reign
But it’s my destiny to be the king of pain

A music video of King of Pain was made but only released in Australia.

Above: Clip from the video of King of Pain

The lyrics in King of Pain paint exactly the kind of bleak and hopeless picture of the world that someone in the midst of a depressive episode would experience.

The imagery Sting creates relates not just to the suffering of the living, but to a kind of randomness in the world that affects all things.

Beyond the fox, the gull, the whale, the living things, there is also a hat in a tree and a rag on a flagpole, not to mention the sunspots themselves.

All of these, together, suggest a kind of negative naturalistic view of the world (and the universe), a view where things “just happen” and traits “just are“, all of it out of anyone’s control.

In this world view, pain and suffering and death are simply part of a meaningless lottery.

Sting is saying, in a nutshell:

If nature can be so random and so indifferent, then why in the world should we expect nature to be any more kind to us?

We are no more entitled than the whale, the fox or the butterfly.

Like any chaotic system, sunspots are paradoxically both random and predictable.

Each spot (“soul“) is random as to where specifically it appears and the course of its “life“.

Still, when they’re viewed collectively, sunspots are cyclical, following an 11-year pattern.

Basically, King of Pain is a guy saying how depressed he is, but it is a surprisingly beautiful song if you really listen.

It’s about a man saying he is destined to always be hurting, that the pain will never go away no matter what he does or where he goes.

He is asking for someone to help him, but ultimately knows they can’t.

This is a song about depression.

The black spot on the sun is a day (or a life) that starts out good, but is destined to tank.

And this has happened often.

History repeats itself.

It’s the same old thing as yesterday.

The rain is pouring, the wind won’t stop, the world is doing circles —

Life sucks.

The end of the reign refers to a desire for all this to stop and the destiny is his doubt that it will.

King of pain
King of pain
King of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain
I’ll always be king of pain

And yet, somehow, somewhere, there is beauty in the dissonance.

And it is this beauty in the dissonance that reminds me once again of St. Gallen.

Above: Bird’s eye view of St. Gallen, Switzerland

Gustav Adolf (1778 – 1837), former king of Sweden (1792 – 1809), spent the last years of his life in St. Gallen and died there in 1837.

In October 1833 he went to Weisses Rössli (“The White Horse“), an inn in St. Gallen.

He decided to spend the rest of his life in quiet resignation with Rössli landlord Samuel Naf in St. Gallen.

A man born in a palace, living his last years in an inn “by no means of the first order”.

There is no monument to remind us of him.

No street is named after him.

No city tour deals with him.

He is only mentioned by two measly building plaques.

One is located on the busy arterial road to Basel’s St. Johann suburb.

The other is practically invisible above a shop window in St. Gallen’s Old Town.

This King hardly left any traces of himself.

Above: Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden

Gustav Adolf was born in Stockholm, the son of King Gustav III of Sweden and Queen Sophia Magdalena of Denmark.

Above: Sophia Magdalena of Denmark (1746 – 1813)

Early on, malicious rumors arose that Gustav III would not have been the father of the child but the nobleman, Adolf Fredik Munck, from the eastern half of Finland. 

He had been helpful in the royal couple’s sexual debut. 

Although the royal couple showed all signs of a happy marriage at the time of the Queen’s first pregnancy, the rumour was passed on, even by Gustav III’s brother Duke Karl and by him to the brothers’ mother Louise, which led to a break between the King and her, which was not addressed until Louise’s deathbed. 

The rumour was so entrenched that it was in the Swedish nobility’s Ättar paintings under Count Munck af Fulkila that he is believed to have been secretly married to Queen Sophia Magdalena, and “is presumed to be the father of Gustaf IV Adolf”

The King was nevertheless deeply involved in the upbringing of his eldest son. 

Above: Adolf Fredrik Munck (1749 – 1831)

Stockholm is the capital and largest city of Sweden as well as the largest urban area in Scandinavia.

Approximately 980,000 people live in the municipality, with 1.6 million in the urban area, and 2.4 million in the metropolitan area.

The city stretches across 14 islands where Lake Mälaren flows into the Baltic Sea.

Outside the city to the east, and along the coast, is the island chain of the Stockholm Archipelago, with some 24,000 islands, islets and skerries.

Over 30% of the city area is made up of waterways, and another 30% is made up of green areas.

The air and water here are said to be the freshest of any European capital.

Above: Stockholm, Sweden

The area has been settled since the Stone Age, in the 6th millennium BCE.

It was founded as a city in 1252 by Swedish statesman Birger Jarl.

It is also the county seat of Stockholm County and for several hundred years was also the capital of Finland which then was a part of Sweden.

Above: Flag of Stockholm

Stockholm is the cultural, media, political and economic centre of Sweden.

The Stockholm region alone accounts for over a third of the country’s GDP. 

It is among the top 10 regions in Europe by GDP per capita.

Above: Stockholm City Hall

Ranked as an alpha-global city, it is the largest in Scandinavia and the main centre for corporate headquarters in the Nordic region.

Above: Kista Science Tower, Stockholm – This is the tallest office building in Scandinavia.

As of the 21st century, Stockholm struggles to become a world leading city in sustainable engineering, including waste management, clean air and water, carbon-free public transportation, and energy efficiency.

Lake water is safe for bathing, and in practice for drinking (though not recommended).

Above: Kastellet Citadel, Kastellholmen, Stockholm

The city is home to some of Europe’s top ranking universities, such as the Stockholm School of Economics, Karolinska Institute, the KTH Royal Institute of Technology and Stockholm University.

Stockholm hosts the annual Nobel Prize ceremonies and banquet at the Stockholm Concert Hall and Stockholm City Hall.

Above: Nobel Prize medal

Untouched by wars for a long time, Stockholm has some great old architecture to see.

The exception would be Norrmalm, where much was demolished in the 1950s and 1960s to give place to what was then more modern buildings.

Looking at it the other way around, if interested in this kind of architecture this is the place to go.

Above: Hamngatan, a street in Norrmalm, Stockholm

Stockholm’s Old Town (Gamla Stan) is the beautifully preserved historical centre, best covered on foot, dominated by the Stockholm Palace (Stockholms slott).

Above: Stockholm Palace

Other highlights include: 

  • Storkyrkan, the cathedral of Stockholm, which has been used for many royal coronations, weddings and funerals

Above: The Royal Cathedral, Stockholm

  • Riddarholmskyrkan, a beautifully preserved medieval church, which hosts the tombs of many Swedish kings and royals, surrounded by former mansions.

Above: Riddarholmen Church, Stockholm, Sweden

Stockholm has several interesting churches, from medieval times to the 20th century.

Most of them are in active use by the Church of Sweden.

Above: Coat of arms of the Church of Sweden

There is also a synagogue in Östermalm and a mosque on Södermalm.

Above: The Great Synagogue, Stockholm

Above: Stockholm Mosque

The woodland cemetery, Skogskyrkogården, in Söderort is one of few UNESCO World Heritage sites from the 20th century.

Above: Skogskyrkogården, Stockholm

Also in southern Stockholm is the Ericsson Globe (Söderort), a white spherical building used for hockey games and as a concert venue.

Occasionally, at least at game nights, it is lit by coloured light.

The Globe is the heart of the Sweden Solar System, the world’s largest scale model of any kind.

With the Globe as the Sun, models of the planets are displayed at Slussen (Mercury), the Royal Institute of Technology (Venus), the Natural History Museum (Earth and Moon), Mörby Centrum (Mars), Arlanda Airport (Jupiter) and Uppsala (Saturn).

Above: The Ericson Globe, Stockholm

Stockholm has more than 70 museums, ranging from those large in size and scope to the very specialized, including the Butterfly Museum, the Spirits Museum, and the Dance Museum, to name but a few.

Above: The Museum of Spirits, Stockholm

Above: Dance Museum, Stockholm

As of 2016, many of them have free entrance.

A brief selection:

  • The Natural History Museum has extensive exhibits for all ages, including an Omnimax cinema. 

Above: Natural History Museum, Stockholm

  • The Army Museum displays Sweden’s military history, with its frequent wars from the Middle Ages until 1814, then followed by two centuries of peace.

Above: Army Museum, Stockholm

  • The Swedish History Museum features an exhibition on Vikings.

Above: Swedish History Museum, Stockholm

  • The Museum of Modern Art

Above: Museum of Modern Art, Stockholm

  • The Vasa Museum displays the Vasa, a 17th-century warship that sunk in Stockholm Harbour on its maiden voyage, and authentic objects from the height of the Swedish Empire. One of the city’s most prized museums, the Vasa Museum, is the most visited non-art museum in Scandinavia.

Above: Vasa Museum, Stockholm

Above: Vasa Museum logo

  • Skansen is an open-air museum containing a zoo featuring Swedish fauna, as well as displays of Sweden’s cultural heritage in reconstructed buildings. 

Above: Skansen Open Air Museum, Stockholm

  • Nordiska Museet displays Swedish history and cultural heritage.

Above: Nordiska Museet, Stockholm

  • The Swedish Music Hall of Fame features the ABBA Museum.

Above: Benny Andersson, Anni-Frid Lyngstad (Frida), Agnetha Fältskog, and Björn Ulvaeus (ABBA)

  • Lidingö is an open-air sculpture museum.

Above: Lindingö, Stockholm

  • Fotografiska Södermalm is a photo gallery opened in 2010.

Above: Swedish Museum of Photography, Stockholm

  • For the real Viking buff, there is Birka, the site of a former Viking city.

Above: The Viking village of Birka, Stockholm

Beyond the art museums mentioned above, Stockholm has a vivid art scene with many art galleries, exhibition halls and public art installation.

Some of the galleries are:

  • Galleri Magnus Karlsson 

  • Lars Bohman Gallery

  • Galerie Nordenhake

  • Magasin 3

The Royal Institute of Art and the University College of Arts, Crafts and Design hold regular exhibitions.

Above: The Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Stockholm

The Stockholm Metro, opened in 1950, is well known for the décor of its stations.

It has been called the longest art gallery in the world.

Some stations worth to mention are:

  • the moody dark blue cave of Kungsträdgården

Above: Kungsträdgården Metro Station

  • the giant black and white “drawings” by Siri Derkert at Östermalmstorg

Above: Östermalmstorg Metro Station

  • the celebration of science and technology at Tekniska Högskolan 

Above: Tekniska Högskolan Metro Station

  • Rissne has a fascinating timeline of human history on its walls.

Above: Rissne Metro Station

A written description in English to the art in the Stockholm Metro can be downloaded for free.

Above: Stockholm Metro logo

Sweden’s national football arena is located north of the city centre, in Solna. 

Above: Friends Arena, Stockholm

Avicii Arena, the national indoor arena, is in the southern part of the city.

Above: Avicii Arena (Ericsson Globe), Stockholm

The city was the host of the 1912 Summer Olympics.

Stockholm is the seat of the Swedish government and most of its agencies, including the highest courts in the judiciary, and the official residencies of the Swedish monarch and the Prime Minister.

Above: Flag of Sweden

The government has its seat in the Rosenbad building, the Riksdag (Swedish parliament) is seated in the Parliament House.

Above: Rosenbad Building, Stockholm

The Prime Minister’s Residence is adjacent at Sager House.

Above: Swedish Prime Minister Magdalena Andersson

Above: Sager House, Stockholm

Stockholm Palace is the official residence and principal workplace of the Swedish monarch, while Drottningholm Palace, a World Heritage Site on the outskirts of Stockholm, serves as the Royal Family’s private residence.

Above: King Carl XVI Gustav of Sweden

Above: Aerial view of Stockholm Palace

Above: Drottningholm Palace, Stockholm

Stockholm is the hub of most Swedish rail and bus traffic and has two of the country’s busiest airports nearby, so it is a good starting point for visiting other parts of Sweden.

Above: Swedish National Railways logo

Above: Stockholm Central Station

Above: Bus travel in Sweden

Above: Stockholm Arlanda Airport

Stockholm has been the setting of many books and films, including some of Astrid Lindgren’s works and Nordic Noir works, such as Stieg Larsson’s Millennium.

Above: Astrid Lindgren (1907 – 2002)

Above: Cover of Pippi Långstrump Går Ombord (Pippi Longstocking Goes On Board), 1946

Above: Stieg Larsson (1954 – 2004)

Why can’t a man and his family live here forever in a state of perpetual happiness?

Above: A screenshot of the 1969 television series, showing Inger Nilsson as Pippi Longstocking

In 1792, King Gustav III was mortally wounded by a gunshot in the lower back during a masquerade ball as part of an aristocratic-parliamentary coup attempt, but managed to assume command and quell the uprising before succumbing to spesis 13 days later, a period during which he received apologies from many of his political enemies.

At the age of 13, Gustav Adolf went through the murder of his father, a trauma that left deep traces. 

Some have suggested that this also affected his life.

Above: Gustav III of Sweden (1746 – 1792)

Upon Gustav III’s assassination in March 1792, Gustav Adolf succeeded to the throne at the age of 14, under the regency of his uncle, Charles, Duke of Södermanland, who was later to become King Charles XIII of Sweden when his nephew was forced to abdicate and was banished from the country in 1809.

Above: King Charles XIII of Sweden (1748 – 1818)

In August 1796, his uncle the regent arranged for the young King to visit St. Petersburg.

Above: The Winter Palace, St. Petersburg, Russia

The intention was to arrange a marriage between the young King and the Grand Duchess Alexandra Pavlovna, a granddaughter of Russian Empress Catherine the Great.

Above: Grand Duchess Alexandra Pavlovna of Russia (1783 – 1801)

However, the whole arrangement foundered on Gustav’s unwavering refusal to allow his intended bride liberty of worship according to the rites of the Russian Orthodox Church.

Above: Cross of the Russian Orthodox Church

Nobody seems to have suspected the possibility at the time that emotional problems might lie at the root of Gustav’s abnormal piety.

On the contrary, when he came of age that year, thereby ending the regency, there were many who prematurely congratulated themselves on the fact that Sweden had now no disturbing genius, but an economical, God-fearing, commonplace monarch.

Gustav Adolf’s prompt dismissal of the generally detested Gustaf Adolf Reuterholm, the duke-regent’s leading advisor, added still further to his popularity.

Above: Gustaf Adolf Reuterholm (1756 – 1813)

On 31 October 1797 Gustav married Frederica Dorothea, granddaughter of Karl Friedrich, Margrave of Baden, a marriage which seemed to threaten war with Russia but for the fanatical hatred of the French Republic shared by the Russian Emperor Paul and Gustav IV Adolf, which served as a bond between them.

Above: Queen Frederica of Sweden (1781 – 1826)

Above: Russian Emperor Paul I (1754 – 1801)

Indeed, the King’s horror of Jacobinism (ardent or republican support of a centralized and revolutionary democracy or state) was intense, and drove him to become increasingly committed to the survival of Europe, to the point where he postponed his coronation for some years, so as to avoid calling together a Diet.

Nonetheless, the disorder of the state finances, largely inherited from Gustav III’s war against Russia, as well as widespread crop failures in 1798 and 1799, compelled him to summon the Estates to Norrköping in March 1800 and on 3 April the same year.

When the King encountered serious opposition at the Riksdag, he resolved never to call another.

Above: The Museum of Work, Strykjärnet (Clothes Iron) Building, Motala River, Norrköping, Sweden

His reign was ill-fated and was to end abruptly.

In 1803, England declared war on France. 

Behind this declaration of war was that England did not want to be challenged as the dominant colonial power.

As it was impossible for England to defeat France alone, allies were needed. 

Many countries were reluctant to enter into a Coalition against Napoleon, but the decisive factor was that in May 1805 Napoleon was crowned King of Italy. 

Above: Emperor Napoleon I of France (1769 – 1821)

Russia had already in April 1805 common cause with the British.

In August of the same year Austria and Sweden joined the Coalition.

Contributing to Sweden joining the Coalition was the assassination of Duke Louis Antoine Henri de Bourbon, which took place after France violated the territory of neutral Baden.

This assassination upset the whole of Europe and intensified Gustav’s hatred of Napoleon, but the decision for Sweden to go to war was not only based on emotions. 

Above: Duke of Énghien, Louis-Antoine de Bourbon-Condé (1772 – 1804) –  More famous for his death than for his life, he was executed on charges of aiding Britain and plotting against France, shocking royalty across Europe.

Early in 1804, Napoleon Bonaparte, then First Consul of France, heard news which seemed to connect the young Duke with the Cadoudal Affair, a conspiracy which was being tracked by the French police at the time.

It involved royalists Jean-Charles Pichegru and Georges Cadoudal who wished to overthrow Bonaparte’s regime and reinstate the monarchy.

Above: General Charles Pichegru (1761 – 1804)

Above: Georges Cadoudal Coutan (1771 – 1804)

The news ran that the Duke was in company with Charles François Dumouriez and had made secret journeys into France.

Above: General Charles François du Périer Dumouriez (1739 – 1823)

This was false.

There is no evidence that the Duke had dealings with either Cadoudal or Pichegru.

However, the Duke had previously been condemned in absentia for having fought against the French Republic in the Armée des Émigrés (counter-revolutionary armies raised outside France by and out of royalist émigrés, with the aim of overthrowing the French Revolution, reconquering France and restoring the monarchy.

Above: Troops of the Armées des émigrés at the Battle of Quiberon, 23 June – 21 July 1795

Napoleon gave orders for the seizure of the Duke.

French dragoons crossed the Rhine secretly, surrounded his house and brought him to Strasbourg (15 March 1804), and thence to the Château de Vincennes, near Paris, where a military commission of French colonels presided over by General Hulin was hastily convened to try him.

Above: Château de Vincennes, France

The Duke was charged chiefly with bearing arms against France in the late war, and with intending to take part in the new Coalition then proposed against France.

The military commission, presided over by General Hulin, drew up the act of condemnation, being incited thereto by orders from Anne Jean Marie René Savary, who had come charged with instructions to kill the Duke.

Above: General Pierre Augustin Hulin (1758 – 1841)

Above: Anne Jean Marie René Savary, 1st Duke of Rovigo (1774 – 1833)







Savary prevented any chance of an interview between the condemned and the First Consul.

On 21 March, the Duke was shot in the moat of the castle, near a grave which had already been prepared.
A platoon of the Gendarmes d’élite was in charge of the execution.

The Duke’s last words were:

I must die then at the hands of Frenchmen!





Above; The execution of the Duke of Énghien






In 1816, his remains were exhumed and placed in the Holy Chapel of the Château de Vincennes.

Royalty across Europe were shocked and dismayed at the duke’s death.

Tsar Alexander I of Russia was especially alarmed.

He decided to curb Napoleon’s power. 

Baden was the territory of the Tsar’s father-in-law, and the German principalities were part of the Holy Roman Empire of which Russia was a guarantor.







Above: Russian Tsar Alexander I (1777 – 1825)






 

Enghien was the last descendant of the House of Condé.

His grandfather and father survived him, but died without producing further heirs.

It is now known that Joséphine (Napoleon’s wife) and Madame de Rémusat had begged Bonaparte to spare the Duke, but nothing would bend his will.

Above: Joséphine de Beauharnais (1763 – 1814)

Above: Claire Élisabeth Jeanne Gravier de Vergennes, comtesse de Rémusat (1780 – 1821)

Whether Talleyrand, Fouché or Savary bore responsibility for the seizure of the Duke is debatable, as at times Napoleon was known to claim Talleyrand conceived the idea, while at other times he took full responsibility himself.

Above: Diplomat Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord (1754 – 1838)

Above: Joseph Fouché, 1st Duc d’Otrante, 1st Comte Fouché (1759 – 1820)

On his way to St. Helena and at Longwood, Napoleon asserted that, in the same circumstances, he would do the same again.

Above: Location of St. Helena

Above: Longwood House, Longwood, St. Helena

He inserted a similar declaration in his will, stating that:

It was necessary for the safety, interest, and the honour of the French people as when the Comte d’Artois, by his own confession, was supporting sixty assassins at Paris.

Above: King Charles X of France, Count of Artois (1757 – 1836)

The execution shocked the aristocracy of Europe, who still remembered the bloodletting of the Revolution.

Above: Nine émigrés executed by guillotine, 1793

Either Antoine Boulay, comte de la Meurthe (deputy from Meurthein the Corps législatif) or Napoleon’s chief of police, Fouché, said about the Duke’s execution: 

C’est pire qu’un crime, c’est une faute.”, a statement often rendered in English as:

It was worse than a crime.

It was a blunder.”

The statement is also sometimes attributed to Talleyrand.

Above: Sketch of Antoine Jacques Claude Joseph, comte Boulay de la Meurthe (1761 – 1840)

In contrast, in France the execution appeared to quiet domestic resistance to Napoleon, who soon crowned himself Emperor of the French. 

Cadoudal, dismayed at the news of Napoleon’s proclamation, reputedly exclaimed:

We wanted to make a King, but we made an Emperor.”

Above: The coronation of Napoleon I, 2 December 1804

From the beginning, Sweden was part of a seemingly strong alliance, which could have good opportunities to beat Napoleon. 

In August 1805 it was not possible to predict the Russian-Austrian loss at the Battle of Austerlitz in December 1805, the collapse of Prussia at the Battle of Jena-Auerstedt in October 1806, and the loss of the Russians in the Battle of Eylau in February 1807.

Above: Battle of Austerlitz, Austria, 2 December 1805

Above: Battle of Jena-Auerstedt, Germany, 14 October 1806

Above: Battle of Eylau, Russia, 7 – 8 February 1807

These setbacks totally changed Sweden’s chances of success.

Gustav IV Adolf’s policies and stubbornness at the time of Napoleon’s march through Europe diminished confidence in him as regent, which affected him less because he was convinced of the validity of his divine right to rule.

Above: Gustav IV Adolf’s personal coat-of-arms

Gustav IV Adolf’s personal aversion to the French Revolution and Napoleon, and his unrealistic view of Sweden’s military force led Sweden to declare war on France (Swedish-French War: 1805 – 1810). 

Contributing to the War was that Sweden was dependent on trade with Great Britain, and therefore opposed the Continental Blockade against Great Britain. 

In 1805, he joined the Third Coalition against Napoléon.

The war was fought largely on German soil. 

The starting point for the Swedish troop movements was Swedish Pomerania. 

Above: Swedish Pomerania (orange) within the Swedish Empire (green)

At the beginning of November 1805, there was an army consisting of just over 12,000 Swedes and Russians standing in Swedish Pomerania. 

The plan was to move to Hanover via the fortress Hameln, which was in French hands, where the English were on site. 

Above: Modern Hannover, Germany

The plan was delayed by Prussia’s hesitation. 

When the plan could finally be put into action, Napoleon had won his great victory at Austerlitz. 

After this, Prussia entered into a treaty with Napoleon, which meant that Swedes, Russians and Englishmen now had to leave Prussia. 

The Swedes reluctantly withdrew to Swedish Pomerania.

During the summer of 1806, Prussia changed sides in the war. 

Above: Flag of the Kingdom of Prussia (1701 – 1918)

The Swedes were now allowed to occupy Saxony-Lauenburg, but in the autumn of the same year the French reaped new successes, and Prussia and the rest of Germany were flooded by French troops. 

The Swedes were now forced to retreat to Lübeck. 

Above: Modern Lübeck, Germany

The plan was to be able to retreat from there by sea to Stralsund in Swedish Pomerania. 

Above: Modern Stralsund, Germany

However, the Swedes were surprised by the French during the preparations for sea transport.

On 6 November,1,000 Swedish soldiers had to capitulate. 

Most had already packed their rifles! 

This “battle” is called the Surprise in Lübeck.

Above: Battle of Lübeck, 7 November 1806

At the beginning of 1807, the French began a siege of Stralsund. 

As the French were also engaged in warfare elsewhere, their numbers steadily declined. 

The Swedes therefore decided to launch an offensive to lift the siege. 

The capture of Stralsund was successfully implemented on 1 April, which led to the Swedes being able to occupy the surrounding landscape, including Usedom and Wolin.

Above: Siege of Straslund, 24 July – 24 August 1807












Above: Map of Wolin, Poland






However, the French chose to attack again.
 
A 13,000-strong army, based in Szczecin, attacked the Swedes on 16 April. 




Above: Modern Szczecin, Poland




The left wing of the Swedish army had to withdraw, and another division in Ueckermünde was cut off. 

On 17 April, the cut-off force tried to get out of there by sea, but was attacked under the cargo of ships. 

The Battle of Ueckermünde ended with the capture of 677 men.

Above: Modern Ueckermünde, Germany

Gustav IV Adolf did not give up hope. 

He managed, with Russia’s help, to gather a force of 17,500 men, partly sub-standardly trained. 

Against these stood the French army of 40,000 men. 

Above: King Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden

On 13 June 1807, the Swedish army began to move, but in early July, Russia and Prussia made peace with France. 

The Swedish force was therefore forced to withdraw to Stralsund, after which they quickly retreated to Rügen. 

Above: Map of Rügen, Germany

Above: Cape Arkona, Rügen, Germany

The French command finally agreed to give the Swedes free exit. 

The French then ruled Sweden in Pomerania.

At the Peace of Paris, Sweden regained Swedish Pomerania, but it was still forced to join the Continental System, which meant that Sweden was not allowed to buy British goods. 

Above: French Empire (dark green), client states (light green), Continental System/Blockade (blue), 1812

When his ally, Russia, made peace and concluded an alliance with France at Tilsit in 1807, Sweden and Portugal were left as Great Britain’s sole European allies.

Above: Meeting of Russian Emperor Alexander I and French Emperor Napoleon I in a pavilion set up on a raft in the middle of the Neman River, Tilsit, Russia, 25 June 1807

On 21 February 1808, Russia invaded Finland, which was ruled by Sweden, on the pretext of compelling Sweden to join Napoléon’s Continental System. 

Denmark likewise declared war on Sweden. 

In just a few months almost all of Finland was lost to Russia.

Above: Notable locations of the Finnish War (21 February 1808 to 17 September 1809) fought between Sweden and Russia

As a result of the war, on 17 September 1809, in the Treaty of Hamina, Sweden surrendered the eastern third of Sweden to Russia.

The autonomous Grand Duchy of Finland within Imperial Russia was established.

By the time the peace treaties were signed, however, the King had already been deposed.

Dissatisfaction with the King had grown for several years and now his opponents took action. 

Gustav Adolf’s inept and erratic leadership in diplomacy and war precipitated his deposition through a conspiracy of army officers.

An uprising broke out in Värmland (a county north of Stockholm) where Lieutenant Colonel Georg Adlersparre on 7 March 1809 took command of the Northern Army, and triggered the Coup of 1809 by raising the flag of rebellion in Karlstad and starting to march upon Stockholm.  

Above: Georg Adlersparre (1760 – 1835)

When this news reached Stockholm, Gustav Adolf decided to leave the capital and take command of the southern army, in order to then be able to strike at the rebels. 

The coup plotters, some of whom were in Stockholm, realized that they needed to strike quickly and prevent the King from travelling. 

On 13 March, Carl Johan Adlercreutz and six other officers marched up to the Castle and declared that:

The whole nation is astonished at the unfortunate position of the Kingdom and the King’s promised departure and is determined to turn it down.

Above: Carl Johan Adlercreutz (1757 – 1815)

To prevent the King from joining loyal troops in Scania (southernmost Sweden), seven of the conspirators led by Adlercreutz broke into the royal apartments in the Palace and seized the King.

Above: The arrest of King Gustav IV Adolf, 13 March 1809

They imprisoned him and his family in Gripsholm Castle.

Above: Gripsholm Castle, Mariefred, Sweden

On 12 March 1809, King Gustav IV Adolf left Queen Frederica and their children at Haga Palace to deal with the rebellion of Georg Adlersparre.

Above: Haga Castle, Stockholm

The day after he was captured at the Royal Palace in Stockholm, imprisoned at Gripsholm Castle and deposed in favour of his uncle, who succeeded him as Charles XIII of Sweden on 6 June.

According to the terms of the deposition made on 10 May 1809, Frederica was allowed to keep the title of Queen even after the deposition of her spouse.

Frederica and her children were kept under guard at Haga Palace.

The royal couple was initially kept separated because the coup leaders suspected her of planning a coup.

During her house arrest, her dignified behavior reportedly earned her more sympathy than she had been given her entire tenure as Queen.

Her successor, Queen Charlotte, who felt sympathy for her and often visited her, and wished to preserve the right to the throne for Frederica’s son, Gustav.

Frederica told her that she was willing to separate from her son for the sake of succession, and requested to be reunited with her spouse.

Her second request was granted her after intervention from Queen Charlotte.

Above: Queen Charlotte of Sweden and Norway (1759 – 1818)

Frederica and her children joined Gustav Adolf at Gripsholm Castle after the coronation of the new monarch on 6 June.

The relationship between the former King and Queen was reportedly well during their house arrest at Gripsholm.

During her house arrest at Gripsholm Castle, the question of her son Crown Prince Gustav’s right to the throne was not yet settled and a matter of debate.

Above: Prince Gustav of Vasa (1799 – 1877)

There was a plan by a military faction led by General Eberhard von Vegesack to free Frederica and her children from the arrest, have her son declared monarch and Frederica as regent of Sweden during his minority.

These plans were in fact presented to her, but she declined:

The Queen displayed a nobility in her feelings, which makes her worthy of a crown of honor and placed her above the pitiful earthly royalty.

She did not listen to the secret proposals, made to her by a party, who wished to preserve the succession of the Crown Prince and wished, that she would remain in Sweden to become the regent during the minority of her son.

She explained with firmness, that her duty as a wife and mother told her to share the exile with her husband and children.

Above: Eberhard von Vegesack (1763 – 1818)

The King’s uncle, Duke Charles (Karl), later King Charles XIII, was thereupon persuaded to accept the leadership of a provisional government, which was proclaimed the same day.

A Diet, hastily summoned, solemnly approved of the revolution.

On 29 March, Gustav IV Adolf, to save the Crown for his son, voluntarily abdicated, but on 10 May the Riksdag of the Estates, dominated by the Army, declared that not merely Gustav but his whole family had forfeited the throne, perhaps an excuse to exclude his family from succession based on the rumours of his illegitimacy.

A more likely cause, however, is that the revolutionaries feared that Gustav’s son, if he inherited the throne, would avenge his father’s deposition when he came of age.

Above: Prince Gustav Vasa of Sweden

In the writing of history, the image of Gustav IV Adolf and his government was long drawn by the men of 1809 and their successors. 

They portrayed Gustav IV Adolf as an untalented and emotionally tense person whose policy was dictated by temporary and emotional factors that occasionally took on purely mind-boggling expressions, medals awarded by Gustaf IV Adolf were recalled and replaced with new ones without his name and signs, emblems, memorials and the like. which bore his name was removed. 

This is one of the few cases in Sweden where the state and its authorities have made an attempt at damnatio memoriae to erase the memory of someone.

Above: An example of damnatio memoriae, Roman Emperor Septimius Severus (145 – 211) and his family with the face of his son Geta (189 – 211) erased

On 5 June, Gustav’s uncle was proclaimed King Charles XIII, after accepting a new liberal Constitution, which was ratified by the Diet the next day.

Above: Royal monogram of King Charles XIII of Sweden

Gustav and his family were expelled out of the country.

Via three separate carriages. Gustav Adolf and Frederica travelled in one carriage, escorted by General Skjöldebrand.

Their son Gustav travelled in the second with Colonel Baron Posse.

Their daughters (Sophie, Amalia and Cecilia) and their governess Von Panhuys travelled in the last carriage escorted by Colonel von Otter.

Frederica was offered to be escorted with all honours due to a member of the House of Baden if she travelled alone, but declined and brought no courtier with her, only her German chamber maid Elisabeth Freidlein.

The family left for Germany by ship from Karlskrona on 6 December 1809. 

Above: Images from modern Karlskrona, Sweden

Thus the exile of a king and his family began.

Here is where this instalment of his story (and my own) ends.

To be continued…..

In my eyes
Indisposed
In disguises no one knows
Hides the face
Lies the snake
And the sun in my disgrace
Boiling heat
Summer stench
Neath the black, the sky looks dead
Call my name
Through the cream
And I’ll hear you scream again

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Stuttering
Cold and damp
Steal the warm wind, tired friend
Times are gone
For honest men
Sometimes, far too long for snakes
In my shoes
Walking sleep
In my youth, I pray to keep
Heaven send
Hell away
No one sings like you anymore

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come? (Black hole sun, black hole sun)

Hang my head
Drown my fear
Till you all just disappear

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Black hole sun
Won’t you come
And wash away the rain?
Black hole sun
Won’t you come
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come (Black hole sun, black hole sun)
Won’t you come
Won’t you come

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Lonely Planet, The World / Rough Guide to London / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Carl Franz and Lorena Havens, The People’s Guide to Mexico / Susan Griffith, Work Your Way Around the World / Dan Kieran, The Idle Traveller: The Art of Slow Travel / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Chiang Lee, The Silent Traveller in Oxford

You CAN get what you want

Eskişehir, Turkey, Tuesday 11 April 2022

Last Saturday was a good day.

I completed a long blogpost, finally got the washing machine to function, had lunch with colleagues, worked the afternoon, then the day got interesting.

Ramadan 9, and my friend S. has been diligent in fasting.

She invited me to her home for iftar (the nightly feast that breaks the fast) and we spoke of many things: relationships, work, literature.

Above: Different types of food items on a typical Ifter plate

A woman who looks like a girl and thinks like a man is the best sort, the most enjoyable to be and the most pleasurable to have and to hold.

Julie Burchill

Above: Julie Birchill

She is a friend and it is glorious, for my being both married and old enough to be her father, there is no chemistry to worry about.

She cannot see me as more than a father figure and I see her like a little sister, so the conversation is uncomplicated and free from tension.

An aged man is but a paltry thing,

A tattered coat upon a stick, unless

Soul clap its hands and sing, and louder sing

For every tatter in its mortal dress

William Butler Yeats

Above: William Butler Yeats (1865 – 1939)

After dinner, she has plans, so I take my leave and make my way back home.

I pass the ES Park shopping mall and the Starbucks in front of it.

From behind me, a student calls my name and grabs my arm.

It is I., a woman less than half my age.

Time misspent in youth is sometimes all the freedom one ever has.”

Anita Brookner

Above: Anita Brookner (1928 – 2016)

She invites me to join her table where she sits with a male colleague.

She buys me a coffee.

We talk.

Another woman, another friend, again no chemistry to worry about.

The wisdom of age has rendered me meditative, contemplative.

Above: Auguste Rodin’s The Thinker, Paris, France

Age wins and one must learn to grow old.

I must learn to walk this long unlovely wintry way, looking for spectacles, shunning the cruel looking-glass, laughing at my clumsiness before others mistakenly condole, not expecting gallantry yet disappointed to receive none, apprehending every ache or shaft of pain, alive to blinding flashes of mortality, unarmed, totally vulnerable.”

Diana Cooper

Above: Diana Cooper (aka Lady Diana Manners) (1892 – 1986)

It is liberating to enjoy a woman’s company without the itch to be intimate, without the hunger to be in a relationship, without the fear of being alone compelling a pursuit of someone who then decides that you might or might be worthy of her time and attention, without the games that people play in pursuit of potential pleasure.

God created man, and finding him not sufficiently alone, gave him a companion to make him feel his solitude more keenly.

Paul Valéry

Above: Paul Valéry (1871 – 1945)

Just two people, being real, just talking, with no end goal except the enjoyment of the conversation.

It is relaxing not to have an agenda.

We men have got love well weighed up.

Our stuff can get by without it.

Women don’t seem to think that’s good enough.

They will write about it.

Kingsley Amis

Above: Kingsley Amis (1922 – 1995)

Just hanging out enjoying the warmer weather of the night.

S. tells me that her BF is playing drums at a club near my apartment.

After numerous previous invitations to see him perform I finally go to the club.

The band rocks, the music familiar and embracing.

A verbal art like poetry is reflective.

It stops to think.

Music is immediate.

It goes on to become.

W.H. Auden

Above: Wystan Hugh Auden (1907 – 1973)

I sit at a table secure in my solo situation nursing a cola.

Best to keep my senses about me in unknown territory.

I am warmly welcomed by G. and his friends.

G. surprises me from the moment he spots me in the crowd.

He asks the lead singer if they can play his request for me:

Ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone
It’s not warm when she’s away
Ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone
And she’s always gone too long
Anytime she goes away

Wonder this time where she’s gone
Wonder if she’s gone to stay
Ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone
And this house just ain’t no home
Anytime she goes away

And I know, I know, I know, I know
I know, I know, I know, I know, I know
I know, I know, I know, I know, I know
I know, I know, I know, I know, I know
I know, I know, I know, I know, I know
I know, I know
Hey, I ought to leave young thing alone
But ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone

Ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone
Only darkness every day
Ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone
And this house just ain’t no home
Anytime she goes away
Anytime she goes away
Anytime she goes away
Anytime she goes away

Bill Withers

It is a great feeling – music I love, a friendly atmosphere, no drama.

I am getting what I want, because there is nothing that I want that isn’t here already.

No expectations lead to no disappointments.

I simply let the night take me where it will.

There is something not quite right about night life, something shadowy in every sense.

However efficiently artificial light annihilates the difference between night and day, it never wholly eliminates the primitive suspicion that night people are up to no good.

A. Alvarez

Above: Al Alvarez (1929 – 2019)

I am a sensible man with a job requiring rest.

Been working like a dog gone crazy
I’ve been giving everything I’ve got
I need something short and sweet to save me
A little something that can hit the spot

I’ve been living like a man in a prison
I’ve been living like some monk in a cave
I need a woman with a good position
I start searching at the end of the day

Pack it in and go to town when the sun goes down
And do the tomcat prowl when the sun goes down

I’ve been punching out a clock since fifteen
I’ve been living on a working wage
You keep paying me and I’ll keep lifting
I keep a-lifting till the end of the day

Then pack it in and go to town
When the sun goes down
Do the moon dog howl when the sun goes down
And do the tomcat prowl when the sun goes down

Gotta find a way to ease that pressure
Gotta find a way to ease that pain
Gotta find myself some buried treasure
Gotta find it ‘fore the sun comes up again

It doesn’t matter if you’re sane or crazy
It doesn’t matter if you’re weak or strong
It doesn’t matter if your past is hazy
It doesn’t matter you can all come along

Pack it in and go to town when the sun goes down
And do the tomcat prowl when the sun goes down
Sun goes down
Pack it in and go to town when the sun goes down
And do the tomcat prowl when the sun goes down

Do the moon dog howl when the sun goes down

Doug and the Slugs

Many beautiful women in the club.

I acknowledge each and everyone of them.

And I walk home, alone and free.

I cannot walk through the suburbs in the solitude of the night without thinking that the night pleases us because it suppresses idle details, just as our memory does.

Jorge Luis Borges

Above: Jorge Luis Borges (1899 – 1986)

In bed just as Sunday morning begins, a smile on my face.

Know it sounds funny
But I just can’t stand the pain
Girl, I’m leaving you tomorrow
Seems to me girl
You know I’ve done all I can
You see I begged, stole
And I borrowed

Ooh, that’s why I’m easy
I’m easy like Sunday morning
That’s why I’m easy
I’m easy like Sunday morning

Why in the world
Would anybody put chains on me?
I’ve paid my dues to make it
Everybody wants me to be
What they want me to be
I’m not happy when I try to fake it!
No!

Ooh, that’s why I’m easy
I’m easy like Sunday morning
That’s why I’m easy
I’m easy like Sunday morning

I wanna be high, so high
I wanna be free to know
The things I do are right
I wanna be free
Just me, babe!

That’s why I’m easy
I’m easy like Sunday morning
That’s why I’m easy
I’m easy like Sunday morning
Because I’m easy
Easy like Sunday morning
Because I’m easy
Easy like Sunday morning

As slumber seizes my sensibilities I find myself feeling amazed that a talented intelligent man like G. confessed to me that he feels insecure about his talents and intelligence.

This confession and the enjoyment that the band brought me makes me think of the music and musicians I have loved.

All a musician can do is get closer to the sources of nature and so feel that he is in communion with the natural laws.

Then he can feel he is interpreting them to the best of his ability.

John Coltrane

Above: John Coltrane (1926 – 1967)

Music is the art of arranging sounds in time through the elements of melody, harmony, rhythm and timbre.

It is one of the universal cultural aspects of all human societies.

General definitions of music include common elements such as pitch (which governs melody and harmony), rhythm (and its associated concepts of tempo, meter and articulation), dynamics (loudness and softness), and the sonic qualities of timbre and texture (which are sometimes termed the “colour” of a musical sound).

Above: Allegory of music

I think the main thing a musician would like to do is give a picture to the listener of the many wonderful things he knows of and senses in the universe.

That’s what music is to me – it’s just another way of saying this is a big beautiful universe we live in, that’s been given to us, and here’s an example of just how magnificent and encompassing it is.”

John Coltrane

Different styles or types of music may emphasize, de-emphasize or omit some of these elements.

Music is performed with a vast range of instruments and vocal techniques ranging from singing to rapping.

There are solely instrumental pieces, solely vocal pieces (songs without instrumental accompaniment) and pieces that combine singing and instruments. 

If the music doesn’t say it, how can words say it for the music?”

John Coltrane

In its most general form, the activities describing music as an art form or cultural activity include the creation of works of music (songs, tunes, symphonies, and so on), the criticism of music, the study of the history of music, and the aesthetic examination of music. 

Ancient Greek and Indian philosophers defined music in two parts:

  • melodies (tones ordered horizontally)
  • harmonies (tones ordered vertically).

Above: Acropolis, Athens, Greece

Above: Taj Mahal, Agra, India

No one in the band is a musician.

We all hate the term.

We’re something close to factory workers.

Machinists.

Skilled operators.

John Lydon

Common sayings such as “the harmony of the spheres” and “it is music to my ears” point to the notion that music is often ordered and pleasant to listen to.

Above: Harmony of the World, Astrology, Ebenezer Sibley

However, 20th-century composer John Cage thought that any sound can be music, saying:

There is no noise, only sound.”

Above: John Cage (1912 – 1992)

I am not a musician.

I don’t go in too deep.

If you have the music in your head and you sing it with your body, then you’ll be all right.

Luciano Pavarotti

Above: Luciano Pavarotti (1935 – 2007)

The creation, performance, significance, and even the definition of music vary according to culture and social context.

Indeed, throughout history, some new forms or styles of music have been criticized as “not being music“, including Beethoven’s Grosse Fuge string quartet in 1825, early jazz in the beginning of the 1900s and hardcore punk in the 1980s.

Above: Ludwig van Beethoven (1770 – 1827)







Missed the Saturday dance
Heard they crowded the floor
Couldn’t bear it without you
Don’t get around much anymore

I thought I’d visit the club
Got as far as the door
They’d have asked me about you
Don’t get around much anymore

Darling, I guess that my mind’s more at ease
Oh, nevertheless, why stir up memories?

I’ve been invited on dates
Might have gone, but what for?
It’s awfully different without you
Don’t get around much anymore

Darling, I guess, my mind’s more at ease
But nevertheless, why stir up memories?

Been invited on dates
I might’ve gone, but what for?
It’s awfully different without you
Don’t get around much anymore

Oh baby, don’t get around much anymore

Duke Ellington

Above: Duke Ellington (1899 – 1974)

There are many types of music, including popular music, traditional music, art music, music written for religious ceremonies, and work songs such as chanteys.

Music ranges from strictly organized compositions — such as Classical music symphonies from the 1700s and 1800s — through to spontaneously played improvisational music such as jazz and avant garde styles of chance-based contemporary music from the 20th and 21st centuries.

Music can be divided into genres (e.g., country music) and genres can be further divided into subgenres (e.g., alternative country and country pop are two of the many country subgenres), although the dividing lines and relationships between music genres are often subtle, sometimes open to personal interpretation, and occasionally controversial.

Above: Hank Williams (1923 – 1953)

I’ve known a few guys who thought they were pretty smart
But you’ve got being right down to an art
You think you’re a genius
You drive me up the wall
You’re a regular original know-it-all

Oh-oo-oh, you think you’re special
Oh-oo-oh, you think you’re something else
Okay, so you’re a rocket scientist

That don’t impress me much
So you got the brains, but have you got the touch?
Now don’t get me wrong, I think you’re alright
But that won’t keep me warm in the middle of the night
That don’t impress me much
Ah-huh, yeah yeah

I never knew a guy who carried a mirror in his pocket
And a comb up his sleeve – just in case
And all that extra hold gel in your hair oughtta lock it
‘Cause Heaven forbid it should fall out of place

Oh-oo-oh, you think you’re special
Oh-oo-oh, you think you’re something else
Okay, so you’re Brad Pitt

Above: Brad Pitt

That don’t impress me much
So you got the looks, but have you got the touch?
Now don’t get me wrong, yeah, I think you’re alright
But that won’t keep me warm in the middle of the night
That don’t impress me much
Yeah!

You’re one of those guys that likes to shine his machine
You’ll make me take off my shoes before you let me get in
I can’t believe you kiss your car good night
Now c’mon, baby, tell me – you must be joking right!

Oh-oo-oh, you think you’re special
Oh-oo-oh, you think you’re something else
Okay, so you’ve got a car

That don’t impress me much
So you got the moves, but have you got the touch?
Now don’t get me wrong, yeah, I think you’re alright
But that won’t keep me warm in the middle of the night

That don’t impress me much
Oh, now you think you’re cool, but have you got the touch?
Now don’t get me wrong, yeah, I think you’re alright
But that won’t keep me warm on the long, cold, lonely night
That don’t impress me much
Uh-huh, yeah yeah

Okay, so what do you think, you’re Elvis or something?

Above: Elvis Presley (1935 – 1977)


That don’t impress me much
Oh no
That don’t impress me much
Oh no
Yeah, woo!
Oh no, alright, alright
You’re Tarzan


Captain Kirk maybe?

Above: William Shatner as Captain James T. Kirk of the Starship Enterprise, Star Trek (The Original Series)


John Wayne?

Above: Marion Robert Morrison (aka John Wayne) (1907 – 1979)


Whatever, nuh-uh
That don’t impress me much

Shania Twain

For example, it can be hard to draw the line between some early 1980s hard rock and heavy metal.

New York, New York, is everything they say
And no place that I’d rather be
Where else can you do a half a million things
All at a quarter to three

When they play their music, ooh that modern music
They like it with a lot of style
But it’s still that same old back beat rhythm
That really really drives ’em wild

Above: Manhattan, New York City

They say the heart of rock and roll is still beating
And from what I’ve seen I believe ’em
Now the old boy may be barely breathing
But the heart of rock and roll, heart of rock and roll is still beating

LA, Hollywood and the Sunset Strip
Is something everyone should see
Neon lights and the pretty pretty girls
All dressed so scantily

When they play their music, that hard rock music
They like it with a lot of flash
But it’s still that same old back beat rhythm
That really kicks ’em in the….

Above: Los Angeles, California

They say the heart of rock and roll is still beating
And from what I’ve seen I believe ’em
Now the old boy may be barely breathing
But the heart of rock and roll, heart of rock and roll is still beating

DC, San Antone and the Liberty Town, Boston and Baton Rouge
Tulsa, Austin, Oklahoma City, Seattle, San Francisco, too
Everywhere there’s music, real live music, bands with a million styles
But it’s still that some old rock and roll music
That really really drives ’em wild

Above: National Mall and the Lincoln Memorial, Washington DC

Above: San Antonio, Texas

Above: The liberty town, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Above: Boston, Massachusetts

Above: Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Above: Tulsa, Oklahoma

Above: Austin, Texas

Above: Images of Oklahoma City, Oklahoma

Above: Seattle, Washington

Above: San Francisco, California

They say the heart of rock and roll is still beating
And from what I’ve seen I believe ’em
Now the old boy may be barely breathing
But the heart of rock and roll, heart of rock and roll is still beating

In Cleveland
Detroit!!
Huh, heart of rock and roll

Above: Images of Cleveland, Ohio

Above: Detroit, Michigan

Huey Lewis and the News

Within the arts, music may be classified as a performing art, a fine art, or as an auditory art.

Music may be played or sung and heard live at a rock concert or orchestra performance, heard live as part of a dramatic work (a music theatre show or opera), or it may be recorded and listened to on a radio, MP3 player, CD player, smartphone or as film score or TV show.

Above: Metallica

In many cultures, music is an important part of people’s way of life, as it plays a key role in religious rituals, rite of passage ceremonies (e.g., graduation and marriage), social activities (e.g., dancing) and cultural activities ranging from amateur karaoke singing to playing in an amateur funk band or singing in a community choir.

Above: James Brown (1933 – 2006)

I’m nothing special, in fact I’m a bit of a bore
If I tell a joke, you’ve probably heard it before
But I have a talent, a wonderful thing
‘Cause everyone listens when I start to sing
I’m so grateful and proud
All I want is to sing it out loud

So I say
Thank you for the music, the songs I’m singing
Thanks for all the joy they’re bringing
Who can live without it? I ask in all honesty
What would life be?
Without a song or a dance, what are we?
So I say thank you for the music
For giving it to me

Mother says I was a dancer before I could walk
She says I began to sing long before I could talk
And I’ve often wondered, how did it all start?
Who found out that nothing can capture a heart
Like a melody can?
Well, whoever it was, I’m a fan

So I say
Thank you for the music, the songs I’m singing
Thanks for all the joy they’re bringing
Who can live without it? I ask in all honesty
What would life be?
Without a song or a dance what are we?
So I say thank you for the music
For giving it to me

I’ve been so lucky, I am the girl with golden hair
I wanna sing it out to everybody
What a joy, what a life, what a chance

Thank you for the music, the songs I’m singing
Thanks for all the joy they’re bringing
Who can live without it, I ask in all honesty
What would life be?
Without a song or a dance what are we?
So I say thank you for the music
For giving it to me

So I say
Thank you for the music, for giving it to me

ABBA

People may make music as a hobby, like a teen playing cello in a youth orchestra, or work as a professional musician or singer.

The music industry includes the individuals who create new songs and musical pieces (such as songwriters and composers), individuals who perform music (which include orchestra, jazz band and rock band musicians, singers and conductors), individuals who record music (music producers and sound engineers), individuals who organize concert tours, and individuals who sell recordings, sheet music, and scores to customers.

Even once a song or piece has been performed, music critics, music journalists and music scholars may assess and evaluate the piece and its performance.

I’ve been alive forever
And I wrote the very first song
I put the words and the melodies together
I am music
And I write the songs

I write the songs that make the whole world sing
I write the songs of love and special things
I write the songs that make the young girls cry
I write the songs, I write the songs

My home lies deep within you
And I’ve got my own place in your soul
Now when I look out through your eyes
I’m young again, even tho’ I’m very old

I write the songs that make the whole world sing
I write the songs of love and special things
I write the songs that make the young girls cry
I write the songs, I write the songs

Oh, my music makes you dance and gives you spirit to take a chance
And I wrote some rock ‘n roll so you can move
Music fills your heart, well that’s a real fine place to start
It’s from me, it’s for you
It’s from you, it’s for me
It’s a worldwide symphony

I write the songs that make the whole world sing
I write the songs of love and special things
I write the songs that make the young girls cry
I write the songs, I write the songs

I write the songs that make the whole world sing
I write the songs of love and special things
I write the songs that make the young girls cry
I write the songs, I write the songs

I am music and I write the songs

Barry Manilow

I have been blessed by great music that evening and throughout my life.

I have visited many a music store – I am of an age that finds no enjoyment in downloading music from the Net. – and there I find a paradise.

The ears are caressed by sound, the eyes are dazzled by selection, the mind amused, the mood mellow.

Above: Scene from High Fidelity – John Cusack and Jack Black

In Turkey, surprisingly against prejudices, it is more difficult to find music stores here than in countries more “civilized“.

What, I am asked, you want to buy a CD player?!

A cassette player?!

Have you not heard of downloading?

Yes, and I still prefer the music store.

I met a girl who sang the blues and I asked her for some happy news
But she just smiled and turned away
I went down to the sacred store where I’d heard the music years before
But the man there said the music wouldn’t play

And in the streets, the children screamed
The lovers cried, and the poets dreamed
But not a word was spoken
The church bells all were broken

And the three men I admire most
The Father, Son and the Holy Ghost
They caught the last train for the coast
The day the music died

American Pie“, Don McLean

Drove downtown in the rain, 9:30 on a Tuesday night,
Just to check out the late-night record shop.
Call it impulsive, call it compulsive, call it insane,
But when I’m surrounded I just can’t stop.

Brian Wilson“, Barenaked Ladies

It has been open since 2020 and I would love to visit it, even though the group the store features is not one of my desert island favourite groups.

I saw her today at the reception
A glass of wine in her hand
I knew she would meet her connection
At her feet was her footloose man

No, you can’t always get what you want
You can’t always get what you want
You can’t always get what you want
But if you try sometime you’ll find
You get what you need

And I went down to the demonstration
To get my fair share of abuse
Singing, “We’re gonna vent our frustration
If we don’t we’re gonna blow a fifty-amp fuse”
Sing it to me, honey

You can’t always get what you want
You can’t always get what you want
You can’t always get what you want
But if you try sometimes, well, you just might find
You get what you need

I went down to the Chelsea drugstore
To get your prescription filled
I was standing in line with Mr. Jimmy
And, man, did he look pretty ill
We decided that we would have a soda
My favorite flavor, cherry red
I sung my song to Mr. Jimmy
Yeah, and he said one word to me, and that was “dead”
I said to him

You can’t always get what you want, well no
You can’t always get what you want. I tell you, baby
You can’t always get what you want, no
But if you try sometimes you just might find, uh, mm
You get what you need, oh yeah, woo!

I saw her today at the reception
In her glass was a bleeding man
She was practiced at the art of deception
Well, I could tell by her blood-stained hands, sing it

You can’t always get what you want, yeah
You can’t always get what you want, ooh yeah, child
You can’t always get what you want
But if you try sometimes you just might find
You just might find
You get what you need, ah yeah
Ah baby, woo!

You Can’t Always Get What You Want“, Honky Tonk Women, The Rolling Stones

It is a place where the committed fan can consider spending £535 on a Rolling Stones-themed crystal decanter, £110 on a “Stones red” bomber jacket, or £15 on a face mask made from cotton or, for £10 more, silk.

Big tongues are everywhere, mostly red, occasionally leopard print.

Above: Rolling Stones Shop, Carnaby Street, London, England

I can’t get no satisfaction
I can’t get no satisfaction
‘Cause I try, and I try, and I try, and I try
I can’t get no, I can’t get no

When I’m driving in my car
When a man come on the radio
He’s telling me more and more
About some useless information
Supposed to fire my imagination

I can’t get no, oh, no, no, no, hey, hey, hey
That’s what I say
I can’t get no satisfaction
I can’t get no satisfaction
‘Cause I try, and I try, and I try, and I try
I can’t get no, I can’t get no

When I’m watchin’ my TV
And a man comes on and tells me
How white my shirts can be
But, he can’t be a man ’cause he doesn’t smoke
The same cigarettes as me

I can’t get no, oh, no, no, no, hey, hey, hey
That’s what I say
I can’t get no satisfaction
I can’t get no girl reaction
‘Cause I try, and I try, and I try, and I try
I can’t get no, I can’t get no

When I’m ridin’ ’round the world
And I’m doin’ this and I’m signin’ that
And I’m tryin’ to make some girl, who tells me
Baby, better come back maybe next week
Can’t you see I’m on a losing streak?
I can’t get no, oh, no, no, no, hey, hey, hey
That’s what I say
I can’t get no, I can’t get no
I can’t get no satisfaction, no satisfaction
No satisfaction, no satisfaction
I can’t get no

The Rolling Stones

The venue is the world’s first permanent Rolling Stones shop, which will open in the spiritual home of all things cool, Carnaby Street in London’s West End.

It sells everything from T-shirts, hoodies and denim jackets to key rings, guitar plectrums and water bottles.

All with a Rolling Stones brand.

Please allow me to introduce myself
I’m a man of wealth and taste
I’ve been around for long long years
Stole a million men’s souls and faith

And I was ’round when Jesus Christ
Had his moment of doubt and pain
Made damn sure that Pilate
Washed his hands and sealed his fate

Above: Christ in the Wilderness, Ivan Kramskoy

Pleased to meet you
Hope you guess my name
But what’s puzzling you
Is the nature of my game

Stuck around St. Petersburg
When I saw it was a time for a change
Killed the Tsar and his ministers
Anastasia screamed in vain

Above: St. Petersburg riot, 4 July 1917

Above: Russian Tsar Nicholas II (1868 – 1918)

Above: Grand Duchess Anastasia Nikolaevna of Russia (1901 – 1918)

I rode a tank
Held a general’s rank
When the Blitzkrieg raged
And the bodies stank

Pleased to meet you
Hope you guess my name, oh yeah
Ah, what’s puzzling you
Is the nature of my game, oh yeah

I watched with glee
While your kings and queens
Fought for ten decades
For the gods they made

I shouted out
“Who killed the Kennedys?”
When, after all,
It was you and me

Above: John F. Kennedy (1917 – 1963)

Above: Robert F. Kennedy (1925 – 1968)

Let me please introduce myself
I’m a man of wealth and taste
And I laid traps for troubadours
Who get killed before they reached Bombay

Above: Mumbai (formerly Bombay), India

Pleased to meet you
Hope you guessed my name, oh yeah
But what’s puzzling you
Is the nature of my game, oh yeah, get down, baby

Just as every cop is a criminal
And all the sinners saints
As heads is tails
Just call me Lucifer
‘Cause I’m in need of some restraint

Above: Illustration of Lucifer, Inferno, Dante Alligheri

So if you meet me
Have some courtesy
Have some sympathy, and some taste
Use all your well-learned politeness
Or I’ll lay your soul to waste, mm yeah

Pleased to meet you
Hope you guessed my name, mm yeah
But what’s puzzling you
Is the nature of my game, mm mean it, get down

Woo, who
Oh yeah, get on down
Oh yeah
Aah yeah

Tell me baby, what’s my name?
Tell me honey, can ya guess my name?
Tell me baby, what’s my name?
I tell you one time, you’re to blame

What’s my name
Tell me, baby, what’s my name?
Tell me, sweetie, what’s my name?

Sympathy for the Devil“, The Rolling Stones

The store is a collaboration between the band and the merchandising company Bravado, which has previously opened pop-up stores with merchandise for acts including Kanye West, Billie Eilish and Slipknot.

She take my money when I’m in need
Yeah, she’s a triflin’ friend indeed
Oh, she’s a gold digger
Way over town, that digs on me

Jamie Foxx and Kayne West

You ain’t nothin’ but a lost cause
And this ain’t nothin’ like it once was
I know you think you’re such an outlaw
But you got no job

Billie Eilish

A season at an end
A harvest of seclusion and regret
The burning can begin
A period of ash is what you get
The quiet is a curse
But my respect was shown to you by force
Another day too late
Another neck too eager for the rope
….

Yesterday was hard
Tomorrow’s just a promise of the same
When friends have all subscribed
To spitting on the ground to say my name
Fire on the ice
December in the summer kills the heart
Your hate is no surprise
I guess I have to die to play my part
…..

Hold the weight, never trust the one beside you
Carried away, you know just as much as I do
Hold the weight, do it all for what you really love
Carried away, use you up until you’ve had enough
….

True victims and survivors learn to make war
Don’t wanna be the sad man singing anymore
I did it all wrong, so I’d get it all right
We’re wasting all the candles, the dead need no light

A Liar’s Funeral, We Are Not Your Kind, Slipknot

David Boyne, Bravado’s managing director, said the aim was to create something that was more than a shop.

The number one objective was to make it experiential.“, he said.

It is about giving the fan, the customer, a journey of discovery.

This is our first permanent flagship store.

We are very proud with what we have delivered.

Above: David Boyne

The shop includes a glass floor featuring Stones song lyrics, screens showing footage of the band on tour, and fitting rooms with album artwork from “Exile on Main Street” and “Some Girls“.

When your spine is cracking and your hands they shake;
Heart is bursting and your butt’s going to break;
Woman’s cussing, you can hear her scream;
Feel like murder in the first degree
Ain’t nobody slowing down no way;
Everybody’s stepping on their accelerator;
Don’t matter where you are;
Everybody’s going to need a ventilator

Ventilator Blues“, Exile on Main Street, The Rolling Stones

I’ll never be your beast of burden
My back is broad, but it’s a-hurting
All I want is for you to make love to me
I’ll never be your beast of burden
I’ve walked for miles, my feet are hurting
All I want is for you to make love to me

Am I hard enough?
Am I rough enough?
Am I rich enough?
I’m not too blind to see

I’ll never be your beast of burden
So let’s go home and draw the curtains
Music on the radio
Come on, baby, make sweet love to me
….

I’ll never be your beast of burden
I’ll never be your beast of burden
Never, never, never, never, never, never, never be
I’ll never be your beast of burden
I’ve walked for miles, my feet are hurting
All I want is you to make love to me, yeah
I don’t need no beast of burden
I need no fussing, I need no nursing
Never, never, never, never, never, never, never be

Beast of Burden“, Some Girls, The Rolling Stones

At the front of the shop is a red metal sculpture that true diehards may recognize as being based on the opening of the 1966 track “Paint It Black“.

The background music is, of course, by the Stones.

I see a red door
And I want it painted black
No colors anymore
I want them to turn black

I see the girls walk by
Dressed in their summer clothes
I have to turn my head
Until my darkness goes

I see a line of cars
And they’re all painted black
With flowers and my love
Both never to come back

I’ve seen people turn their heads
And quickly look away
Like a newborn baby
It just happens everyday

I look inside myself
And see my heart is black
I see my red door
I must have it painted black

Maybe then, I’ll fade away
And not have to face the facts
It’s not easy facing up
When your whole world is black

No more will my green sea
Go turn a deeper blue
I could not foresee this thing
Happening to you

If I look hard enough
Into the setting sun
My love will laugh with me
Before the morning comes

I see a red door
And I want it painted black
No colors anymore
I want them to turn black

I see the girls walk by
Dressed in their summer clothes
I have to turn my head
Until my darkness goes

I wanna see it painted
Painted black
Black as night
Black as coal
I wanna see the sun
Blotted out from the sky
I wanna see it painted, painted, painted
Painted black, yeah

The Rolling Stones

Some will say that opening a bricks-and-mortar retail operation now, as the pandemic persists, is very risky.

Time will tell.“, said Boyle.

For us, it is about taking a really powerful, positive message to the marketplace.

It’s a cool store.

The store has teamed up with the French luxury brand Baccarat for a range of Rolling Stones glassware, which includes the decanter, tumblers and wine glasses.

John Pasche, who created the Rolling Stones’ now instantly recognisable lips and tongue logo – first used on the “Sticky Fingers” LP in 1971 – has created limited edition artworks, on sale from £1,195.

Childhood living is easy to do
The things you wanted I bought them for you
Graceless lady, you know who I am
You know I can’t let you slide through my hands

Wild horses couldn’t drag me away
Wild, wild horses, couldn’t drag me away

I watched you suffer a dull aching pain
Now you decided to show me the same
No sweeping exits or offstage lines
Could make me feel bitter or treat you unkind

Wild horses couldn’t drag me away
Wild, wild horses, couldn’t drag me away

I know I dreamed you a sin and a lie
I have my freedom but I don’t have much time
Faith has been broken, tears must be cried
Let’s do some living after we die

Wild horses couldn’t drag me away
Wild, wild horses, we’ll ride them some day

Wild Horses“, Sticky Fingers, The Rolling Stones

The band may have a combined age of 305, but Boyne insisted they were as popular and relevant as ever.

They are definitely not has-beens.

I’m a ghost
Livin’ in a ghost town
I’m a ghost
Livin’ in a ghost town

You can come look for me
But I can’t be found
You can search for me
I had to go underground

Life was so beautiful
Then we all got locked down
Feel like a ghost
Living in a ghost town, yeah

Once this place was hummin’
And the air was full of drummin’
The sound of cymbals crashin’
Glasses were all smashin’
Trumpets were all screamin’
Saxophones were blarin’
Nobody was carin’
If it’s day or not

Woah, woah

I’m a ghost
Livin’ in a ghost town
I’m goin’ nowhere
Shut up all alone
So much time to lose
Just starin’ at my phone

Every night I am dreamin’
That you’ll come and creep in my bed
Please let this be over
Not stuck in a world without end
My friend

Woah
Woah, woah

Preachers were all preachin’
Charities beseechin’
Politicians dealin’
Thieves were happy stealin’
Widows were all weepin’
There’s no beds for us to sleep in
Always had the feelin’
It will all come tumblin’ down

I’m a ghost
Livin’ in a ghost town
You can look for me
But I can’t be found

Woah

We’re all livin’ in a ghost town (Woah)
Oh, livin’ in a ghost town (Woah)
We were so beautiful (Woah)
I was your man about town (Woah)

Livin’ in this ghost town (Woah)
Ain’t havin’ any fun (Woah)
If I wanna party (Woah)
It’s a party of one (Woah, woah)

Living in a Ghost Town“, The Rolling Stones

And that is exactly what this post is.

As I listen to the music, the music embraces me, caresses me, holds me to its bosom.

It is a party of one, a celebration of life, as the world slowly emerges from death by disease and returns to the destruction of war in faraway places with strange sounding names.

We don’t read and write poetry because it’s cute.

We read and write poetry because we are members of the human race.

And the human race is filled with passion.

And medicine, law, business, engineering, these are noble pursuits and necessary to sustain life.

But poetry, beauty, romance, love, these are what we stay alive for.

To quote from Whitman:

“O me! O life!

Of the questions of these recurring

Of the endless trains of the faithless

Of cities filled with the foolish

What good amid these, O me, O life?

Answer:

That you are here – that life exists, and identity.

That the powerful play goes on and you may contribute a verse.

Above: Walt Whitman (1819 – 1892)

That the powerful play goes on and you may contribute a verse.

What will your verse be?

Dead Poets Society, N.H. Kleinbaum

Above: Nancy H. Kleinbaum

Music is part of that powerful play.

Music is poetry, beauty, romance, love.

Thank Heaven for the music.

Above: Praying Hands, Albrecht Dürer

Here in Eskişehir, the sole place I have found laughingly calling itself a “music store” is the D & R Music and Book Store.

Music that I have the machinery – a CD/cassette player – to play in my apartment is limited to a set of shelves nearly invisible beside the store’s magazine selection.

In fairness, there is much in this city I have yet to explore.

But, as aforementioned, folks here look at me oddly when I say I am seeking a music CD of such-and-such artist or group.

My gym’s TV permanently placed on Channel Nr1 Türk has been playing the same selection of music since I joined it last year.

Tiesto’s The Business is permanently branded in my brain.

Let’s get down, let’s get down to business
Give you one more night, one more night to get this
We’ve had a million, million nights just like this
So let’s get down, let’s get down to business

Mama, please don’t worry ’bout me
‘Cause I’m about to let my heart speak
My friends keep telling me to leave this
So let’s get down, let’s get down to business

Back and forth, back and forth with the bullshit
I know I said it before, I don’t mean it
It’s been a while since I had your attention
So it might hurt to hear this

Dreams we have don’t ever fall away
We can’t leave ’em if we stay the same
And I can’t do this for another day
So let’s get down, let’s get down to business

Let’s get down, let’s get down to business
Give you one more night, one more night to get this
We’ve had a million, million nights just like this
So let’s get down, let’s get down to business

In my apartment no one tells me what music to play.

I have over 300 CDs (and some cassettes) I have had shipped from Switzerland.

Above: Logo of the Turkish National Post

I have YouTube and Spotify and now I have the option of the F-Spot and the bi-monthly performances of G. and his band.

Above: Logo of Spotify

I have radio through the Internet.

I live alone, but I am never lonely.

I have my books
And my poetry to protect me
I am shielded in my armor
Hiding in my room safe within my womb
I touch no one and no one touches me
I am a rock I am an island

And a rock feels no pain
And an island never cries

I Am a Rock“, Simon and Garfunkel

B.B. Bumble and the Stingers, Mott the Hoople, Ray Charles Singers
Lonnie Mack and twangin’ Eddie, here’s my ring, we’re goin’ steady
Take it easy, take me higher, liar liar, house on fire
Loco-motion, Poco, Passion, Deeper Purple, Satisfaction
Baby baby, gotta gotta, gimme gimme, gettin’ hotter
Sammy’s cookin’, Lesley Gore, Ritchie Valens, end of story
Mahavishnu, Fujiyama, Kama Sutra, Rama Lama
Richard Perry, Spector, Barry, Righteous, Archies, Nilsson Harry
Shimmy Shimmy Ko-Ko Bop it, Fats is back and Finger Poppin’

Above: The band Mott the Hoople

Above: Ray Charles (1930 – 2004)

Above: Lonnie Mack (1941 – 2016)

Above: Duane Eddy

Above: The band Poco

Above: The band Deep Purple

Above: Sam Cooke (1931 – 1964)

Above: Leslie Goldstein (aka Leslie Gore) (1946 – 2016)

Above: Richard Valenzuela (aka Ritchie Valens) (1941 – 1959)







Above: Mahavishnu Orchestra

Above: Richard Perry

Above: Phil Spector (1939 – 2021)

Above: Jeff Barry

Above: Barry White (1944 – 2003)

Above: The Righteous Brothers – Bobby Hatfield and Bill Medley

Above: Harry Nilsson (1941 – 1994)

Above: Antoine Domino (aka Fats Domino) (1928 – 2017)

Life is a rock
But the radio rolled me
Got to turn it up louder
So my DJ told me
(Woo-woo)

Life is a rock
But the radio rolled me (Life is a rock)
At the end of my rainbow (Woo-woo, life is a rock)
Lies a golden oldie

FM, AM, hits are clickin’ while the clock is tock-a-tickin’
Friends and Romans, salutations, Brenda and the Tabulations
Carly Simon, Noddy Holder, Rolling Stones, centerfolder
Johnny Cash and Johnny Rivers, can’t stop now, I got the shivers
Mungo Jerry, Peter Peter, Paul and Paula, Mary Mary
Dr. John the Nightly Tripper, Doris Day and Jack the Ripper
Gotta go so, gotta swelter, Leon Russell, Gimme Shelter
Miracles in Smokey places, slide guitars and Fender basses
Mushroom omelet, Bonnie Bramlett, Wilson Pickett, stomp and kick it

Above: The band FM

Above: Carly Simon

Above: Neville Holder (aka Noddy Holder)

Above: The Rolling Stones

Above: Johnny Cash (1932 – 2003)

Above: Johnny Rivers

Above: The band Mungo Jerry

Above: Peter, Paul and Mary

Above: Malcolm John Rebbennack Jr. (aka Dr. John the Night Tripper) (1941 – 2019)







Above: Doris Kappelhof (aka Doris Day) (1922 – 2019)

Above: Claude Leon Bridges (aka Leon Russell) (1942 – 2016)








Above: Smokey Robinson and the Miracles

Above: Bonnie Bramlett

Above: Wilson Pickett (1941 – 2006)

Life is a rock
But the radio
Life is a rock
But the radio, woo
(Woo-woo-woo)
(Woo-woo-woo)

Arthur Janov primal screamin’, Hawkins Jay and Dale and Ronnie
Kukla, Fran and Norman Okla, Denver John and Osmond Donny
J.J. Cale and ZZ Top and L.L. Bean and De De Dinah
David Bowie, Steely Dan, sing it prouder, C.C. Rider
Edgar Winter, Joanie Sommers, Ides of March, Johnny Thunders
Eric Clapton, pedal wah-wah, Stephen Foster, doo-dah, doo-dah
Good Vibrations, Help Me Rhonda, Surfer Girl and Little Honda
Tighter tighter, honey honey, sugar sugar, yummy yummy
CBS and Warner Brothers, RCA and all the others

Above: Arthur Janov (1924 – 2017)

Above: Jay Hawkins (1929 – 2000)

Above: Dale Hawkins (1936 – 2010)

Above: Ronnie Hawkins

Above: Kukla, Fran and Ollie

Above: Oklahoma University corner, Norman, Oklahoma

Above: Henry John Deutschendorf Jr. (aka John Denver) (1943 – 1997)

Above: Donnie Osmond

Above: John Weldon Cale (aka J. J. Cale) (1938 – 2013)

Above: The band ZZ Top

Above: David Robert Jones (aka David Bowie) (1947 – 2016)

Above: The band Steely Dan

Above: Edgar Winter

Above: Joan Drost (aka Joanie Sommers)






Above: The band The Ides of March

Above: John Anthony Genzale (aka Johnny Thunders) (1952 – 1991)

Above: Eric Clapton

Above: A wah-wah pedal for electric guitar sound effects

Above: “The father of American music” Stephen Foster (1826 – 1864)

Above: The band Bonzo Dog Doo Dah

Above: Logo of the Radio Corporation of America (1919 – 1986)

Life is a rock
But the radio rolled me (Life is a rock)
Got to turn it up louder (Woo-woo, life is a rock)
So my DJ told me (Life is a rock)
(Whoa-whoa, whoa-whoa)

Life is a rock
But the radio rolled me (Life is a rock) yeah
At the end of my rainbow (Woo-woo)
Lies a golden oldie
(Woo-woo, woo-woo, woo-woo-woo)


Listen, remember, they’re playin’ our song
(Woo-woo, woo-woo, woo-woo-woo)

(Please, Mister, please, don’t play B-17
It was our song, it was his song, but it’s over
Please, Mr., please, if you know what I mean
I don’t ever wanna hear that song again
)

Rock it, sock it, Alan Freed me, Murray Kaufman tried to lead me
Fish and swim and Boston Monkey, make it bad and play it funky
(I want to take you higher)

Above: Rock ’em Sock ’em Robots

Above: Alan Freed (1921 – 1965)

Above: Murray Kaufman (aka Murray the K) (1922 – 1982)

Above: Derek William Dick (aka Fish)

Above: Swim dance

Above: The band Boston

Freddie King and Albert King and B.B. King and frolicking
Get it on and not to worry, Pappalardi, Hale and Hearty, Yes
(Baby, baby, baby, Light My Fire)
(Celebrate, celebrate, dance to the music)

Above: Freddie King (1934 – 1976)

Above: Albert Nelson (aka Albert King) (1923 – 1992)

Above: Riley B. King (aka B. B. King) (1925 – 2015)

Above: Felix Pappalardi (1939 – 1983)

Above: Stan Laurel (1890 – 1965) and Oliver Hardy (1892 – 1957)

Above: The band Yes

There’s a perfect more than you would carry, words of Randy Newman
1-2-3, so long, Sophie, Anita, Freda
Aretha
(I wanna take you higher)
(Celebrate, celebrate, dance to the music)

Above: Randy Newman

Above: Sophie Tucker (1886 – 1966)

Above: Aretha Franklin (1942 – 2018)

Tito Puente, Boffalongo, Cuba, War and even Mongo
Lay it down while it’s hurtin’, Herbie’s Brass
(Baby, baby, baby, Light My Fire)
(Celebrate, celebrate, dance to the music)
(Baby, Everything is Alright, Uptight, Out of Sight)
Whoa

Above: Tito Puente (1923 – 2000)

Above: Cuba Gooding Sr. (1944 – 2017)

Above: The band War

Above: Mongo Santamaria (1917 – 2003)

California, Beatlemania, New York City, Transylvania
S&G, V&C, Bobby Vee and SRO, yeah
(Celebrate, celebrate, dance to the music)
(Baby, Everything is Alright, Uptight, Outta Sight)

Above: The Beatles

Above: Warner Bros. short film Transylvania 6-5000

Above: (Paul) Simon (right) and (Art) Garfunkel (left)

Above: Stanley Robert Vinton (aka Bobby Vinton)

Conway Twitty, do-wah-diddy, Conway Twitty, do-wah-diddy

Above: Harold Lloyd Jenkins (aka Conway Twitty) (1933 – 1993)





I have my favourite tunes.

I have my favourite books.

Life is good.

What’s the matter with the clothes I’m wearing?
Can’t you tell that your tie’s too wide?
Maybe I should buy some old tab collars?
Welcome back to the age of jive.
Where have you been hidin’ out lately, honey?
You can’t dress trashy till you spend a lot of money.
Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the car I’m driving?
Can’t you tell that it’s out of style?
Should I get a set of white wall tires?
Are you gonna cruise the miracle mile?
Nowadays you can’t be too sentimental
Your best bet’s a true baby blue Continental.
Hot funk, cool punk, even if it’s old junk
It’s still rock and roll to me.

Oh, it doesn’t matter what they say in the papers
‘Cause it’s always been the same old scene.
There’s a new band in town
But you can’t get the sound from a story in a magazine…
Aimed at your average teen

How about a pair of pink sidewinders
And a bright orange pair of pants?
You could really be a Beau Brummell baby
If you just give it half a chance.
Don’t waste your money on a new set of speakers,
You get more mileage from a cheap pair of sneakers.
Next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the crowd I’m seeing?
Don’t you know that they’re out of touch?
Should I try to be a straight ‘A’ student?
If you are then you think too much.
Don’t you know about the new fashion honey?
All you need are looks and a whole lotta money.
It’s the next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock & roll to me.
Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

But one does not stop buying books simply because one has no more shelves.

One does not stop buying music when there is an opportunity to do so.

I hope one day to return to London to see all those record shops that have opened and all those that remain.

And I will linger in each one for hours.

Wild horses will not drag me away.

Call it impulsive, call it compulsive, call it insane, but when I’m surrounded by music I just can’t stop.

I teach for a living, but literature and music is what makes life worth living.

I hope Heaven has music, but where there is music I am in Heaven.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Mark Brown, “You can always get what you want“, The Times, 8 September 2020 / N.K. Kleinbaum, Dead Poets Society

Unhappy anniversary

Eskişehir, Turkey, Sunday 26 December 2021

It was about the beginning of September 1664, that I, among the rest of my neighbours, heard in ordinary discourse that the Plague was returned again in the Netherlands.

For it had been very violent there, particularly at Amsterdam and Rotterdam, in the year 1663, whither, they say, it was brought, some said from Italy, others from the Levant, among some goods which were brought home by their Turkey fleet.

Others said it was brought from Candia.

Others from Cyprus.

It mattered not from whence it came, but all agreed it was come into the Netherlands again.

We had no such thing as printed newspapers in those days to spread rumors and reports of things….

But such things as these were gathered from the letters of merchants and others who corresponed abroad, and from them was handed about by word of mouth only…..

Hence it was that this rumor died off again and people began to forget it as a thing we were very little concerned in, and that we hoped was not true.

Daniel Defoe, Journal of the Plague Year

Defoe Journal of the Plague Year.jpg

Timeless quotes from “The Plague” by Albert Camus

It had been a stressful week thus far, especially the last 48 hours, for not only was I changing apartments in Eskişehir, but I was preparing to take a leave of absence from Turkey until mid-February 2022.

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Turkey

I worked every day Monday to Sunday this week, allowing our newly arrived American colleague the opportunity to have Christmas weekend off.

I worked Christmas Day, that night I attended the staff Xmas party, and I spent the remainder of the evening packing to change apartments this Boxing Day evening after my PCR test, required before I would be allowed to fly on Tuesday.

Wall Street English logo.png

COVID-19 testing involves analyzing samples to assess the current or past presence of SARS-CoV-2.

The two main branches detect either the presence of the virus or of antibodies produced in response to infection.

Molecular tests for viral presence through its molecular components are used to diagnose individual cases and to allow public health authorities to trace and contain outbreaks.

Antibody tests (serology immunoassays) instead show whether someone once had the disease. 

They are less useful for diagnosing current infections because antibodies may not develop for weeks after infection. 

It is used to assess disease prevalence, which aids the estimation of the infection fatality rate.

Individual jurisdictions have adopted varied testing protocols, including whom to test, how often to test, analysis protocols, sample collection and the uses of test results. 

This variation has likely significantly impacted reported statistics, including case and test numbers, case fatality rates and case demographics. 

Because SARS-CoV-2 transmission occurs days after exposure (and before onset of symptoms), there is an urgent need for frequent surveillance and rapid availability of results.

Test analysis is often performed in automated, high-throughput, medical laboratories by medical laboratory scientists.

Alternatively, point-of-care testing can be done in physician’s offices and parking lots, workplaces, institutional settings or transit hubs.

CDC 2019-nCoV Laboratory Test Kit.jpg

Positive viral tests indicate a current infection, while positive antibody tests indicate a prior infection.

Other techniques include a CT scan, checking for elevated body temperature, checking for low blood oxygen level, and the deployment of detection dogs at airports.

Detection of the virus is usually done either by looking for the virus’ inner RNA, or pieces of protein on the outside of the virus.

Tests that look for the viral antigens (parts of the virus) are called antigen tests.

There are multiple types of tests that look for the virus by detecting the presence of the virus’s RNA.

These are called nucleic acid or molecular tests, after molecular biology.

Above: This is a single strand of RNA (ribionucleic acid) that folds back upon itself.

As of 2021, the most common form of molecular test is the reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) test.

Above: A strip of eight PCR tubes, each containing a 100 μL reaction mixture

Other methods used in molecular tests include: 

  • CRISPR gene editing is a genetic engineering technique in molecular biology by which the genomes of living organisms may be modified. It is based on a simplified version of the bacterial CRISPR-Cas9 antiviral defense system. By delivering the Cas9 nuclease complexed with a synthetic guide RNA (gRNA) into a cell, the cell’s genome can be cut at a desired location, allowing existing genes to be removed and/or new ones added in vivo (in living organisms). The technique is considered highly significant in biotechnology and medicine as it allows for the genomes to be edited in vivo with extremely high precision, cheaply, and with ease. It can be used in the creation of new medicines, agricultural products, and genetically modified organisms, or as a means of controlling pathogens and pests. It also has possibilities in the treatment of inherited genetic diseases as well as diseases such as cancer. However, its use in human genetic modification is highly controversial. 
  • Isothermal nucleic acid amplification – A nucleic acid test (NAT) is a technique used to detect a particular nucleic acid sequence and thus usually to detect and identify a particular species or subspecies of organism, often a virus or bacterium that acts as a pathogen in blood, tissue, urine, etc. NATs differ from other tests in that they detect genetic materials (RNA or DNA) rather than antigens or antibodies. Detection of genetic materials allows an early diagnosis of a disease because the detection of antigens and/or antibodies requires time for them to start appearing in the bloodstream. Since the amount of a certain genetic material is usually very small, many NATs include a step that amplifies the genetic material — that is, makes many copies of it. Such NATs are called nucleic acid amplification tests (NAATs).
  • Digital polymerase chain reaction (digital PCRDigitalPCRdPCR, or dePCR) is a biotechnological refinement of conventional polymerase chain reaction (PCR) methods that can be used to directly quantify and clonally amplify nucleic acids strands, including DNA, cDNA or RNA. The key difference between dPCR and traditional PCR lies in the method of measuring nucleic acids amounts, with the former being a more precise method than PCR, though also more prone to error in the hands of inexperienced users. A “digital” measurement quantitatively and discretely measures a certain variable, whereas an “analog” measurement extrapolates certain measurements based on measured patterns. PCR carries out one reaction per single sample. dPCR also carries out a single reaction within a sample, however the sample is separated into a large number of partitions and the reaction is carried out in each partition individually. This separation allows a more reliable collection and sensitive measurement of nucleic acid amounts. The method has been demonstrated as useful for studying variations in gene sequences — such as copy number variants and point mutations — and it is routinely used for clonal amplification of samples for next generation sequencing.
  • Microarray analysis techniques are used in interpreting the data generated from experiments on DNA (Gene chip analysis), RNA, and protein microarrays, which allow researchers to investigate the expression state of a large number of genes – in many cases, an organism’s entire genome – in a single experiment.Such experiments can generate very large amounts of data, allowing researchers to assess the overall state of a cell or organism. Data in such large quantities is difficult – if not impossible – to analyze without the help of computer programs.
  • Next generation sequencingMassive parallel sequencing or massively parallel sequencing is any of several high-throughput approaches to DNA sequencing using the concept of massively parallel processing. It is also called next-generation sequencing (NGS) or second-generation sequencing. Some of these technologies emerged between 1994 and 1998 and have been commercially available since 2005. These technologies use miniaturized and parallelized platforms for sequencing of 1 million to 43 billion short reads (50 to 400 bases each) per instrument run.

Many NGS platforms differ in engineering configurations and sequencing chemistry.

They share the technical paradigm of massive parallel sequencing via spatially separated, clonally amplified DNA templates or single DNA molecules in a flow cell.

This design is very different from that of Sanger sequencing — also known as capillary sequencing or first-generation sequencing — which is based on electrophoretic separation of chain-termination products produced in individual sequencing reactions.

At this point in time, if your eyes have glossed over in the realization that you, like myself, haven’t the foggiest idea of what all this science actually means in terms that anyone can comprehend, please know that you are not alone in this regard.

question mark | 3d human with a red question mark | Damián Navas | Flickr

The first COVID case in Turkey was recorded on 11 March 2020, when a local returned home from a trip to Europe.

The first death due to COVID-19 in the country occurred on 15 March 2020. 

Turkey stood out from the rest of Europe by not ordering a legal lockdown until April 2021 (a month after I arrived in the Republic), when the country enacted its first nationwide restrictions.

The government kept many businesses open, and allowed companies to set their own guidelines regarding workers.

The resulting wave of infections never came close to overwhelming the Turkish health system, which has the highest number of intensive care units in the world at 46.5 beds per 100,000 people (compared to 9.6 in Greece, 11.6 in France, and 12.6 in Italy).

As of 3 May 2021, Turkey’s observed case-fatality rate stands at 0.84%, the 148th highest rate globally.

This low case-fatality rate has generated various explanations including the relative rarity of nursing homes, favorable demographics, a long legacy of contact tracing, its high number of intensive care units, universal health care, and a lockdown regime that led to a higher proportion of positive cases among working-age adults.

Flag of Turkey
Above: Flag of Turkey

On 30 September 2020, Turkish Minister of Health Fahrettin Koca acknowledged that since 29 July 2020, the reported number of cases was limited to symptomatic cases that required monitoring, which was met with rebuke by the Turkish Medical Association. 

This practice ended on 25 November, when the Ministry started to report asymptomatic and mildly symptomatic cases alongside symptomatic ones.

Fahrettin Koca 20200311 2.jpg
Above: Fahrettin Koca

As of November 8, 2021, the total number of patients infected with the corona virus in Turkey was 8,259,503 and 1,405 of the existing patients were being treated in intensive care.

So far, the number of patients recovering is 7,737,259 and the number of patients who have died is 72,314.

A total of 99,834,300 tests have been carried out to date.

A total of 24,278,886 people were vaccinated as of 5 May 2021.

Of these, 14,327,674 people received the first dose of the vaccine, while 9,951,212 people received a second dose. 

Location of Turkey
Above: Location of Turkey (in green)

(I was vaccinated on 17 July 2021, 3 August 2021, and 1 January 2022 in Weinfelden, Switzerland.)

Rathausstrasse in Weinfelden
Above: Rathausstrasse, Weinfelden, Switzerland

Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, Bursa and Antalya were among the top five cities where the most vaccines were applied.

Aerial overview
Above: Istanbul

Söğütözü
Above: Ankara

Alsancak quarter in the Konak district of İzmir
Above: Izmir

Above: Bursa

Konyaaltı Beach
Above: Antalya

In addition, Turkey is the 6th most vaccinated country in the world after the US, China, India, the UK and Brazil.

Above: Rate of vaccination by provinces (update 28 June 2021)

As of 30 April 2021, Turkey was the 5th country with the highest number of cases among 193 countries, behind Brazil and France, and 19th after Ukraine in the number of deaths. 

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Above: COVID-19 deaths per million residents as of 25 November 2020 – the darker the region, the more deaths therein

The outbreak has led to radical decisions in Turkey that have had many significant impacts and consequences in social, economic, political, economic, administrative, legal, military, religious and cultural fields.

Education and training in primary, secondary and high schools in the country was suspended, while spring semester classes were canceled and exams were postponed in all universities. 

The Directorate of Religious Affairs announced a pause in prayers with the community in mosques and mosques, especially Friday prayers.

The new logo of the Directorate of Religious Affairs.svg
Above: Logo of the Directorate of Religious Affiars

All restaurants, cafes, museums, classrooms, courses, shopping malls, hotels, barber shops, hairdresser salons, beauty centres, coffee shops, gyms, concert venues, nightclubs, association locales and wedding/engagement halls were temporarily closed.

Above: ES Park Shopping Mall, Eskişehir

All citizens were banned from picnics and barbecues in forests, parks and gardens.

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir

All football leagues in the country have been postponed and all sporting events cancelled until further notice. 

Club crest
Above: Logo of  Eskisehirspor professional football club

The Ministry of National Defense announced that all subpoenas, referrals and discharges at military barracks have been postponed for a month.

MSB-Logo.png
Above: Logo of the Ministry of National Defense

(My WSE colleague has had his conscription twice postponed.)

About 90,000 prisoners and detainees were released after Parliament passed a law aimed at reducing the occupancy of prisons, with the risk of the epidemic spreading to prisons and disrupting public order.

In the amnesty law, terrorism, murder, drugs and sexual offences were excluded. 

The Council of Judges and Prosecutors (HSK) announced that all hearings, deliberations and discoveries were suspended until 15 June 2020, except for detainees and emergency work and statute of limitations.

HSK logo.png
Above: Logo of the Board of Judges and Prosecutors

All airlines, especially Turkish Airlines, announced that they were terminating all international and domestic flights until further notice.

Turkish Airlines logo 2019 compact.svg

The obligation to use masks in public areas, such as markets, was put into effect.

Above: Eskişehir lulestone, Grand Bazaar, Istanbul

Intercity travel was granted the Governor’s permit and sparse seating arrangements were introduced on public transport. 

Hundreds of settlements, villages and towns were quarantined under COVID-19 measures.

In order to minimize the economic impact of the pandemic, many arrangements were made and support packages were announced.

Flexible working systems were introduced with minimum staff in private and public sectors. 

The Treasury and Finance Ministry (HMB) said it had lowered, deferred or waived taxes on many items.

Hmb logo.png
Above: Logo of the Ministry of the Treasury and Finance

Under the law, employers were banned from laying off for three months by the Ministry of Family, Labour and Social Services (ASHB).

T.C. Ministry of Family and Social Services logo.svg
Above: Logo of the Ministry of Family and Social Services

 

In a speech, President Erdoğan described the outbreak as the biggest crisis since World War II in terms of its economic consequences.

The government first imposed a curfew on people aged 65 and over to reduce the rate of spread of the epidemic and maintain social distancing between people.

Above: President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

(A practice much ignored generally in my experience in Turkey.)

Above: A label stating that the social distancing rule in the Istanbul Metro should be observed.

It later extended the restriction to include children and young people aged 20 and under.

The public was urged not to travel outside the country and also to stay indoors unless they had to.

Above: Eskişehir Bus Station

On 10 January 2020, the Corona Virus Science Board was established within the Ministry of Health to combat COVID-19 in Turkey. 

Thermal cameras were installed at airports by the Ministry of Health on 24 January. 

The Ministry also began to subject passengers from China to additional screenings and announced that anyone showing signs of corona virus infection would be quarantined.

Screenings were later expanded to include countries that reported large numbers of confirmed cases.

Other measures at airports included infrared screenings, disinfection of all customs gates, free masks and the distribution of instruction leaflets.

Ministry of Health (Turkey) logo.svg
Above: Logo of the Ministry of Health

On 31 January, the Turkish Government sent a plane to pick up 34 Turkish citizens and citizens of other countries from Wuhan. 

Other nationals included seven Azerbaijanis, seven Georgians and one Albanian. 

Above: Wuhan, China

China ordered 150 million masks annually, as well as 200 million masks from Turkey.

On 3 February, Turkey announced that it had suspended all flights from China.

 

Flag of China
Above: Flag of China

On 23 February, the Iranian border was closed and flights with Iran were unilaterally suspended after the Iranian authorities failed to comply with Turkey’s recommendation to quarantine the Iranian city of Qom.

Flag of Iran
Above: Flag of Iran

IMG 20180410 065420 HDR.jpg
Above: Qom, Iran

On 29 February, Turkey said flights to Italy, South Korea and Iraq had been mutually suspended.

Shortly afterwards, the Iraqi border was also closed.

The Ministry also established field hospitals close to the borders of Iraq and Iran.

Flag of Iraq
Above: Flag of Iraq

On 8 March, disinfection began in public places and public transport in some provinces.

In Istanbul, the municipality decided to install hand sanitizers at metro and bus stations.

Istanbul Metro Logo.svg
Above: Logo of the Istanbul Metro

On 10 March, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced that a Turkish man who contracted the virus while travelling to Europe was the country’s first case of the corona virus.

The patient was isolated to an undisclosed hospital and his family members were taken into custody.

On 12 March, a five-hour meeting was held under the chairmanship of President Erdoğan, attended by all ministers, some presidencies and members of the Health and Food Policy Council, to discuss measures against the corona virus.

Presidential Spokesman Ibrahim Kalin announced the decisions after the meeting.

It was decided that sports events should be played without spectators until the end of April, that the departure of public employees abroad should take place with special permission, and that the President should postpone his visits abroad.

Above: Ibrahim Kalin

On 13 March, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced on his official Twitter account that a person close to the first patient under observation had also been diagnosed with the corona virus. 

With the new announcement made in the evening, it was determined that three more people in the same family as the first patient carried the corona virus, thus increasing the number of confirmed cases in Turkey to five. 

Twitter-logo.svg
Above: Logo of Twitter

On 14 March, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced that a person returning from Umrah (the Islamic pilgrimage to Mecca) had been diagnosed with the corona virus, bringing the number of cases in Turkey to six. 

Of the 10,330 citizens who returned from Umrah, 5,392 were quarantined in Ankara and 4,938 were quarantined in state dormitories in Konya, according to the Ministry of Youth and Sports (GSB) on 15 March.

Above: Pilgrims circumambulating the Kaaba in Mecca, Saudi Arabia

Ministry of Youth and Sports.svg
Above: Logo of the Ministry of Youth and Sports

Clockwise: Mevlana Museum and fountain, Nalçaci Street, the historic Aziziye Mosque, a square in the town hall, konya tram, which has an important place in the city's urban transportation.
Above: Images of Konya

Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced that the first case had been diagnosed with two people in the vicinity who were under observation, and that there were seven cases from European countries and three from America.

The number of confirmed cases has risen to 18. 

On 16 March, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced that 29 new diagnoses with contacts in the US, Europe and the Middle East, bringing the total number of patients to 47.

On March 17, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced the death of an 89-year-old patient with Chinese contacts who had been quarantined, 51 new diagnoses and a total of 98 cases. 

Dr. Fahrettin Koca (@drfahrettinkoca) / Twitter
Above: Dr. Fahrettin Koca

On 17 March 2020, the Turkish Medical Association, the TTB Specialist Association, the Public Health Professionals Association, the Turkish Society of Clinical Microbiology and Infectious Diseases, the Turkish Thorax Association, and the Turkish Intensive Care Association held a meeting to evaluate developments related to the Covid-19 pandemic.

The final statement of the meeting called for transparency.

The statement also found that the pandemic poses significant dangers to health workers and patients, that deficiencies in information and measures lead to confusion, and that inadequate information on medication use, access to tests and various issues complicates the fight against the pandemic. 

Turkish Medical Association-logo.png
Above: Logo of the Turkish Medical Association

On 18 March, a “Anti-Coronavirus Co-ordination Meeting” was held in Çankaya Pavilion within the scope of the fight against the corona virus. 

Turkey. Ankara. Palace of Attaturk (i.e., Ataturk) LOC matpc.16728 (cropped).jpg
Above: Çankaya Pavilion, Ankara

Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced on his Twitter account that a 61-year-old patient had died, bringing the number of cases to 191.

Also on 18 March, it was announced that the Commander of the Army, Aytac Yalman had died of the corona virus three days earlier and that his wife was in quarantine. 

Tahir Aytaç Yalman.jpg
Above: Tahir Aytaç Yalman (1940 – 2020)

The Sultan Abdulhamid Khan Training and Research Hospital Chief Medical Officer announced on 19 March that Yalman’s cause of death was COVID-19, which developed within the framework of the pandemic.

Given that the clinical picture of the deceased Aytaç Yalman was also compatible after his wife’s test result was COVID positive, it was concluded that he had died due to COVID-19,” the chief medical officer said. 

The coat of arms of the Turkish Army.png
Above: Logo of the Turkish Army

On 19 March, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca stated that the corona virus was the cause of death of former Army Commander Aytaç Yalman, who died on 15 March 2020.

Thus, the number of people who died due to the corona virus in Turkey increased to three. 

The Minister of Youth and Sports Mehmet Muharrem Kasapoğlu announced the postponement of football, volleyball, basketball and handball leagues. 

Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced that an 85-year-old woman had died, with 168 new cases.

The total number of cases was 359, bringing the death toll to four. 

Above: Mehmet Kasapoğlu

On 20 March, all private and foundation hospitals were declared pandemic hospitals with the circular issued by the Ministry of Health.

Health Minister Fahrettin Koca, in a message posted on his Twitter account, said there were 311 new cases and five more had died.

The total number of cases rose to 670, while the death toll was nine. 

Rise in case numbers slowing: Turkish health minister
Above: Dr. Fahrettin Koca

The Human Rights Association (IHD), the Human Rights Foundation of Turkey, the Lawyers Association for Freedom, the Association of Contemporary Lawyers, the Health and Social Workers Union, the Civil Society Association in the Penal System, Covid-19 Outbreak and Measures to Be Taken Urgently in Prisons issued a statement.

The statement included provisions such as the release of elderly and sick, children, pregnant, pregnant, child detainees and the necessity of regular public information about quarantine practices and the health status of prisoners, especially family and lawyers.

Human Rights Association logo.svg
Above: Logo of the Human Rights Association

Human Rights Foundation of Turkey logo.svg
Above: Logo of the Human Rights Foundation of Turkey

SES logo.png
Above: Logo of the Health and Social Workers Union

On 21 March, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca, in a message posted on his Twitter account, reported 277 new cases and 12 deaths.

The total number of cases rose to 947, with 21 deaths. 

On 22 March, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca, in a message posted on his Twitter account, said there were 289 new cases, nine people had died and the total number of tests carried out was 20,345.

The total number of cases rose to 1,236, with 30 deaths.

Turkey sees five-fold increase in coronavirus cases, Health Minister Koca  says | Daily Sabah
Above: Dr. Fahrettin Koca

On 23 March, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced at a press conference that the drug Favipiravir had been brought in from China that was said to be good for the virus and was being applied to patients in intensive care.

Koca also announced that health workers would be paid additional wages for three months.

Koca posted a new message on his Twitter account later in the day, explaining that there were 293 new cases and that seven people had died.

The total number of cases increased to 1,529 and the number of deaths increased to 37.

On 24 March, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced on his Twitter account that there were 343 new diagnoses and that seven people had died.

The total number of cases increased to 1,872 and the death toll increased to 44. 

Favipiravir to be investigated as a possible COVID-19 treatment for at-home  recovery in the PRINCIPLE trial — PRINCIPLE Trial

On 25 March 25, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca and Minister of National Education Ziya Selçuk held a joint press conference.

It was stated that schools were closed until 30 April, the number of existing patients in the intensive care unit was 136 and two patients over the age of 60 were discharged and that data on the cases in Turkey would now be published digitally. 

Later, Fahrettin Koca posted on his Twitter account that there were 561 new diagnoses and that 12 people had died.

The total number of cases rose to 2,433 and the death toll rose to 59. 

Above: Ziya Selçuk

On 26 March, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced on his Twitter account that there were 1,196 new diagnoses and 16 more had died.

The total number of cases was 3,629, while the deaths rose to 75. 

Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced after the Corona Virus Science Board meeting on 27 March that 42 people had recovered, 341 people were in intensive care, 241 were in intensive care, 2,069 positive cases had been detected in the last 24 hours and 17 people had died.

Thus, the total number of cases increased to 5,698 and the number of deaths increased to 92.

On 28 March, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced that there were 1,704 new cases and 16 people had died.

Thus, the total number of cases increased to 7,402, while the death toll was 108.

The total number of tests carried out so far was 55,464.

On 29 March, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced that there were 1,815 new cases and 23 people had died.

Thus, the total number of cases increased to 9,217, while the death toll was 131.

The total number of tests carried out so far was 65,446. 

On 30 March, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced that there were 1,610 new cases and 37 people had died.

Thus, the total number of cases increased to 10,827, while the death toll was 168.

The total number of tests carried out so far was 92,403.

On 31 March 31, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced that there were 2,704 new cases and 46 people had died.

Thus, the total number of cases increased to 13,531, while the death toll was 214.

The total number of tests carried out so far was 92,403. 

Sağlık Bakanı Koca: Anne adaylarımız tereddüt etmeden aşılarını olmalı
Above: Dr. Fahrettin Koca

Also on 31 March, Turkish business leader Ergun Atalay issued a written statement demanding a ban on layoffs and a halt to all work except mandatory production of goods and services for at least 15 days.

Atalay stressed the need to quickly deploy the resources of the Unemployment Insurance Fund against the loss of income caused by these, and to provide income support to all workers who lose jobs and income by the employer, the Unemployment Insurance Fund and the state. 

The Confederation of Revolutionary Trade Unions of Turkey (DISK), the Confederation of Public Workers Union (KESK), the Union of Turkish Chambers of Engineers and Architects (TMMOB) and the Turkish Medical Association (TTB) published texts containing seven emergency measures and started a petition.

Among the emergency measures:

All jobs except basic, mandatory and emergency goods and services should be stopped urgently during the epidemic.

Layoffs should be banned during the epidemic, small trades should be supported, employees should be given paid leave and unconditional unemployment benefits should be paid for the unemployed.

Consumer, residential and vehicle loans, credit card debts and electricity, water, natural gas and communication bills should be deferred without interest being processed during the risk of an epidemic.” 

Confederation of Revolutionary Trade Unions of Turkey, Logo.svg
Above: Logo of the Confederation of Revolutionary Trade Unions of Turkey

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Above: Logo of the Confederation of Trade Unions of Turkey

KESK logo.png
Above: Logo of the Confederation of Public Workers’ Union

TMMOB logo.gif
Above: Logo of the Union of Turkish Chambers of Engineers and Architects

(According to data from the Istanbul Police Department during the epidemic, the rate of domestic violence in Istanbul increased by 38.2% in March 2020.)

Turkish Police Logo - General Directorate Of Security Transparent PNG -  1000x1210 - Free Download on NicePNG

On 1 April 2020, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced that a total of 277 infected people had died, with 15,679 current cases.

At the same time, it was announced that there were cases in all 81 provinces and deaths in 39 provinces. 

The province with the highest number of cases and deaths was Istanbul with 8,852 cases and 117 deaths.

Hagia Sophia
Above: Haghia Sophia, Istanbul

Istanbul was followed by Izmir with 853 cases and 18 deaths, and Ankara with 712 cases and seven deaths.

Above: Izmir

Anıtkabir
Above: Anitkabir, Ankara

It was also stated that 601 health workers were infected and one doctor died. 

Healthcare in Turkey

On 2 April 2020, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced that 18,757 new tests had been carried out, 2,456 new cases had been identified and 79 new deaths had occurred.

With these figures, the total number of tests increased to 125,556, the total number of cases increased to 18,135 and the total number of deaths increased to 356.

Koca said on his Twitter account that the number of tests increased by around 4,000 compared to the previous day and the number of positive cases decreased compared to the number of tests, explaining that 82 patients had recovered in the last 24 hours and that 82% of those who died during this time were 60 years of age or older.

Deputy Minister of Foreign Affairs Yavuz Selim Kiran announced that as of 4 April 2020, the total number of citizens of the Republic of Turkey who lost their lives abroad due to COVID-19 had reached 156.

Kıran said on his Twitter account that 55 Turkish citizens died in France, 31 in Germany, 22 in the Netherlands,16 in the UK,14 in Belgium, seven in the US, five in Sweden, three in Switzerland, two in Austria and one in Lebanon.

Dışişleri Bakan Yardımcısı Kıran: Türkiye dünyada süper güç olarak  gösterilen bir ülke - 11.11.2021, Sputnik Türkiye
Above: Yavuz Selim Kiran

The Istanbul Medical Chamber said the figures provided by the Ministry of Health are based on cases that test positive for PCR and do not include the number of “suspected/probable cases” in hospitals or outpatient follow-up.

The Medical Chamber also criticized the practices of private hospitals in Istanbul. 

From İstanbul Medical Chamber to Erdoğan: We Demand Respect for Physicians'  Will - bianet
Above: Logo of the Istanbul Medical Chamber

On 11 April 2020, a large-scale curfew was declared for the first time, 20 years after the 2000 census.

The Interior Ministry announced two hours in advance that a two-day curfew would be imposed over the weekend in Zonguldak Province, where lung diseases are common in 30 metropolitan areas with 64 million people, equivalent to 78% of Turkey’s population.

In many cities where the ban would be enforced, citizens flocked to grocery stores and bakeries, causing long queues, mayhem and heavy crowds.

Location of the province in Turkey
Above: Location of Zongulduk Province (in red)

Interior Minister Suleymann Soylu announced that he accepted criticism of the timing and implementation of the ban and announced his resignation the next day.

However, his resignation was not accepted by President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan and Soylu was announced to continue in office.

Above: Suleyman Soylu

The curfew was continued the following weekend.

On 20 April 2020, President Erdoğan announced that the curfew would be maintained in 30 metropolitan areas and Zonguldak between 23 April and 26 April, including National Sovereignty and Children’s Day (23 April) and the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Turkish Grand National Assembly and the first three days of Ramadan (24 – 27 April 2020). 

Between 23 May and 26 May 2020, curfews were imposed in all 81 provinces for four days.

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Above: National Sovereignity and Children’s Day, Cumhuriyet, 23 April 1938

Coat of arms or logo
Above: Logo of the Grand National Assembly of Turkey

A quiet Ramadan Bayram in Turkey in time of COVID-19 pandemic | Daily Sabah
Above: A quiet Ramadan Bayram in Turkey, 2020

Foreign Minister Mevlut Cavusoglu announced on 5 May that 473 Turkish citizens had died from the corona virus abroad.

Cavusoglu also said that more than 65,000 Turkish citizens from 103 countries had been evacuated and brought to Turkey.

While 116 countries requested assistance from Turkey, medical supplies, including N95 masks, overalls, protective goggles, respirators, test kits and visors were sent to 44 countries, including the US, the UK, Spain, Italy and Iran, which were most affected by the outbreak.

Above: Mevlut Cavusoglu

The IBB Scientific Advisory Board shared the results of the meeting and announced that a 7+4 day curfew should be announced to cover 16 May to 26 May.

Addressing the risks of starting to discuss normalization steps, the statement said:

The plateau provided was achieved as a result of the great compliance of our people with the restriction guidelines carried out.

This state of well-being should not bring relief or a temporary relaxation of measures.

In the report prepared by the IBB Scientific Advisory Board, the transition period in the restrictions is defined in excess and the transition process is detailed.” 

Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan spoke after a cabinet meeting on 4 May 2020.

He noted that the daily increase in patients had now decreased to thousands, the number of patients connected to condensation care and respirators was constantly decreasing and the number of patients recovering had increased exponentially.

He announced that 1 billion 910 million Turkish Liras had been raised in the campaign against the corona virus.

1 Turkish lira

Announcing the gradual start of the return to normal life, President Erdoğan stated that the government had made arrangements for the gradual stretching of restrictions by spreading them to May, June and July in general.

The explanations for this normalization process were as follows:

  1. People over the age of 65 would be able to go outside for one of the curfew days and for four hours.
  2. Malls would start operating as of 11 May, provided that the rules were followed.
  3. Children up to the age of 14 would be able to walk outside between 11.00 and 15.00 on 13 May.
  4. The 15-20 age group would be able to walk outside between 11.00 and 15.00 on Friday 15 May.
  5. City entry and exit restrictions would be completed for Antalya, Aydin, Erzurum, Hatay, Malatya, Mersin and Mugla.
  6. Military discharges would begin on 31 May.
  7. The Ministry of National Defense’s appointment, assignment and personnel procurement activities would resume on 1 June, subpoenas on 5 June, and paid military service on 20 June.
  8. As of 5 May, the application of single-double plates for commercial taxis in Istanbul, Ankara and Izmir would end.
  9. Businesses such as barbershops, hairdressers and beauty salons would be able to operate on 11 May.
  10. The High School Entrance Exam (LGS) would be held on 20 June, and the Higher Education Institutions Exam (YKS) would be held on 27 June.

2021 LGS Guide Released

On 5 May 2020, Minister of Industry and Technology Mustafa Varank announced that all major automotive factories in the country would resume operations as of 11 May.

Above: Mustafa Varank

On 6 May 2020, Turkish Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced the normalization process and called this new period controlled social life“. 

Minister Fahrettin Koca said the risk remains and citizens should remain vigilant.

Koca stated that the outbreak has been contained in Turkey, but the threat has not disappeared and the last carrier will not be removed without isolation and treatment.

Minister Koca also said that the phrase “return to normality” is not true, they constitute “the normals of new life“.

Minister Koca stated that their goal in the first period was to control the disease and explained that their aim in this second and new period was to eliminate the opportunities in front of the disease and to reorganize life.

He said citizens would live a free but cautious life.

Stating that it is now confirmed that the virus is transmitted through breathing, he noted that the mask and social distancing are two complementary measures.

Weekly COVID-19 cases drop in Turkey's 61 provinces | Daily Sabah

Minister Koca also mentioned the mobile application “Life Fits Home” (HES) developed by the Ministry.

Minister Koca noted that they see the application as one of the extremely important needs of this new era, and mentioned that thanks to the application, people can see the extent to which they can face a risky situation in their environment and where they want to go and take immediate measures.

According to the density map prepared with Ministry data, users can see where there are patients and how much social distance is exceeded during the day using Bluetooth and location services.

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Above: Logo of the HES app

Minister Koca also announced that they will increase the number of tests instead of reducing them.

He said they would detect cases early and conduct regular screenings at public places.

Turkey ranks 7th worldwide with 600,000 coronavirus tests | Daily Sabah

Minister Koca added that citizens will need masks more during this period, explaining that more than 40 million people have accessed the application, which includes the free delivery of a five-pack mask every 10 days to the 20 – 65 age group, and that 160 million masks had been distributed to date.

He stated that there would be citizens who may need more during this period of limited freedom, and emphasized that it paved the way for people to buy surgical masks from many places, including pharmacies, grocery stores and medical stores, provided that there is a ceiling price.

Turkey makes masks compulsory in 42 provinces after uptick - ABC News

Minister Koca stated that the Ministry was responsible for the announcement by the Turkish Football Federation (TFF) that football leagues would continue in Turkey, and that the Federation could make its own decisions.

Turkish Football Federation crest.svg
Above: Turkish Football Federation crest

In addition, Minister Koca announced that 150,000 people would be screened by sampling method as part of their study with the Turkish Statistical Institute (TUIK) to see the degree, carriership and disease status of the outbreak throughout Turkey, and that this study would be a large, perhaps rare, study that would demonstrate carriership, protection and disease status by performing both PCR and antibody tests.

TURKSTAT logo.svg
Above: Logo of the Turkish Statistical Institute

 

On 7 May 2020, the ceiling price of surgical masks was set at ₺1. 

A guide published on this day announced that barbershops, hairdressers and beauty salons would not accept unmasked and unscheduled customers in the process and that no one would be present at work except the customer and the employee. 

In June 2020, the Association of Emergency Medicine Specialists announced the launch of a story contest titled “Covid-19 Stories“.

The Association said they would evaluate the stories that processed the impact of the pandemic in the competition.

Emergency Medicine Physicians Association of Turkey

In August 2020, “How has the information ecosystem in Turkey been affected by the pandemic process?” research conducted jointly by Tandans Data Science Consultancy was published with Onay.

Tandans Data Science Consulting | LinkedIn

ONAY Mühendislik - Manager - ONAY Mühendislik ve Danışmanlık | LinkedIn
Above: Logo of ONAY Engineering and Consulting

On 30 September 2020, Turkish Health Minister Fahrettin Koca said at a press conference after the Corona Virus Science Board Meeting:

“Not every case is sick.

Because there are those who tested positive but showed no symptoms, and they make up the vast majority of them.”

Explaining the distinction between patient and case definitions, Koca said:

“The number of new patients announced every day and we focus on should be the subject of attention.” 

No photo description available.

On 9 October 2020, Turkish Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced the latest developments in domestic vaccination, saying that vaccinations on human subjects would probably begin after two weeks.

On 25 November 2020, Turkish Health Minister Fahrettin Koca stated that they will also start to disclose asymptomatic (symptomless, mild) cases that they have not previously disclosed.

As of 25 November, 28,351 new positive cases and 6,814 new patients were announced.

COVID: Turkey launches Chinese vaccine drive despite concerns | Coronavirus  pandemic News | Al Jazeera

(There has been various controversy since Health Minister Koca announced on 25 November that an agreement had been reached with Sinovac for the Covid-19 Vaccine and that 10 million doses of vaccines would be provided.

It was claimed that the Coronavac vaccine was inadequate and unreliable due to the fact that phase-3 studies had not been carried out.

Sinovac logo.svg

HDP Istanbul MP Garo Paylan proposed adding TL 15 billion to the Ministry of Health budget and applying the German (Pfizer-BioNTech) vaccine to citizens free of charge instead of the Chinese (CoronaVac) vaccine, but the motion was rejected.

Above: Garo Paylan

Covid19 vaccine biontech pfizer 3.jpg

On 9 December 2020, CHP Ankara MP Murat Emir claimed that the COVID-19 vaccine from China had arrived in Turkey and had been being made to AKP politicians and their relatives for 10 days.  

Health Minister Koca denied the allegation.) 

Above: Murat Emir

Justice and Development Party logo.png
Above: Logo of the Justice ad Development Party (AKP), the party in power

On 25 December 2020, Health Minister Koca announced that 4.5 million doses of the Pzifer BioNTech vaccine would arrive by the end of March 2021.

By the end of March, 4.5 million doses of vaccines will be delivered to our country,” Koca said.

On 30 December, the first batch of the CoronaVac vaccine produced by Sinovac was brought to Turkey.

On 13 January 2021, the CoronaVac vaccine produced by Sinovac received “emergency use approval” in Turkey.

On the same day, national vaccination began.

The vaccination process in Turkey began on 13 January 2021, when Health Minister Fahrettin Koca and members of the Scientific Council were vaccinated live on air to encourage citizens to get vaccinated.

Coronavirus vaccination in Turkey begins for citizens 75 and above | Daily  Sabah

(In January 2021, the vaccination, scheduled to start on 23 December, had not yet begun. 

According to Sebnem Koru Fincanci, president of the Central Council of the Turkish Medical Association, on 26 January 2021, only 10 million people can be vaccinated in three months if 100,000 vaccinations are given per day.

He said that figure was not enough for social immunity.)

Turkish Medical Association: We stand by our words, we are on our duty -  english
Above: “We stand by our words. We are on duty.“, Turkish Medical Association

On 3 February, the South African and Brazilian variants were also seen in Turkey.

Flag of South Africa
Above: Flag of South Africa

File:Flag of Brazil.svg
Above: Flag of Brazil

(On 23 February 2021, CHP Leader Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu claimed that $12 million was paid for 1 million doses of free vaccines. 

On 6 March 2021, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca rejected CHP Leader Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu’s claim and accused Kılıçdaroğlu of putting the vaccination programme at risk.

Koca said that there was absolutely no free vaccine agreement between us and China, and our state did not pay anything other than the prices agreed with Sinovac.)

Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu, 28 December 2021.png
Above: Leader of the Opposition Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu

(Health Minister Fahrettin Koca said on 25 February:

The important thing for us is to be able to complete this vaccination process in April, May at the latest.

In total, we know that we will have access to 105 million dosesof the vaccine by the end of April, May at the latest.

If we vaccinate 50 million people before the fall, the epidemic will cease to be severe pressure”.

There was a reaction when the vaccination calendar, which Minister Koca announced as “spring“, was postponed to “autumn“.)

In Turkey, country-wide vaccinations help Syrian refugee children stay  healthy | UNICEF

On 1 March, Turkish President Erdogan announced that an on-site decision period would be implemented as part of controlled normalization.

He said 81 provinces would be separated by “low, medium, high and very high” risk based on the risk situation of each province, and that governorships would make decisions.

He also said the risk map would be updated every two weeks.

In low- and medium-risk provinces, the ban on the over-65s and under-20s was lifted, training begun at all levels of education, and the weekend curfew lifted.

In high and very high risk provinces, only primary schools and preschool education institutions were opened.

The ban on the over-65s and under-20s was not over, but curfews were increased.

On weekends, it was only forbidden to go out on Sundays.

In all provinces except very high risk provinces, businesses such as cafés and restaurants started to accept customers again at a 50% capacity.

The curfew between 2100 and 0500 continued throughout Turkey.

In all provinces, all high school levels were tested for the 1st semester. 

Turkey to impose curfew in 31 provinces amid COVID-19

On 24 March, 1.4 million doses of the vaccine arrived in Turkey.

On 12 April 2021, the Pfizer-BioNTech vaccine became available.

Australia announces Pfizer coronavirus vaccine swap deal with Britain - SWI  swissinfo.ch

As of 14 April 2021 at 19.00, a two-week partial shutdown was implemented.

Restrictions were imposed in many areas, especially the implementation of curfews between 1900 and 0500 on weekdays to cover the entire weekend. 

A full shutdown was announced until 17 May 0500 to be implemented from 1900 on 29 April 2021.

Training was suspended at all levels and exams were postponed.

It was announced that intercity public transport would operate at a 50% capacity.

Chain stores were to be closed on Sundays.

COVID-19 in Turkey: a nation on edge - The Lancet

On 28 April 2021, Health Minister Koca announced the signing of 50 million doses of the Sputnik V vaccine. 

On 30 April, the Sputnik V vaccine was approved for emergency use.

On 16 May 2021, the Ministry of the Interior issued a circular effective from 17 May 2021.

According to the circular, curfews would be imposed between 2100 and 0500 on weekdays and full days at the weekend.

Curfews were lifted for citizens under 18 and over who have been vaccinated with two doses.

For individuals aged 65 and over who were not vaccinated despite being eligible for vaccinations, they were allowed to go out between 1000 and 1400 on weekdays.

Citizens under the age of 18 and over 65 were banned from public transport regardless of whether they were exempt from the restriction.

Shopping malls opened between 1000 and 2000 on weekdays and were completely closed on the weekend.

The visitor restriction, which was already in place in social protection/care centers such as nursing homes, aged care home rehabilitation centers and children’s homes, was extended until 1 June 2021.

Ugur Sahin, the founder of BioNTech, attended the Corona Virus Science Board meeting held on 20 May 2021.

Ugur Sahin v1.jpg
Above: Ugur Sahin

The first shipment of the Sputnik V vaccine took place on 14 June. 

On 30 June 2021, Health Minister Koca announced that it had been decided that those over 50 and health workers should get a 3rd dose of the vaccine.

Turkey moved to the 3rd stage of gradual normalization as of 1 July 2021.

Many of the restrictions that had existed for 15 months disappeared.

Accordingly, the curfew ended completely, while many restrictions on food and drink places were lifted.

Mask and social distancing rules taken within the scope of corona measures continue throughout the country.

EU has 'absolutely no need' of Sputnik V vaccine, commissioner says |  Reuters

(On 30 July 2021, the Sputnik V vaccine, which received Emergency Use Approval on 30 April 2021, was criticized for still not being used. 

Following the Scientific Council meeting on 2 September, Health Minister Koca was asked why the vaccine was not available.

There was a dose for 200,000 people related to Sputnik, that is, 400,000.

There is a difference of the first and second doses related to Sputnik, not the same vaccine.

They’re different.

Therefore, due to the vaccine difference that has come in, we have been in contact in the new period, especially yesterday, we are striving for the arrival of both one and second doses of the vaccine more intensively.”)

Russia's Sputnik V vaccine to be available in India from next week: Govt |  Business Standard News

On 16 August 2021, due to the request of two doses of Pfizer-BioNTech vaccine by some countries on their departure abroad, two doses of Sinovac and one dose of BioNTech were granted a 4th dose of vaccine.

Turkey: COVID-19 fight hastening local vaccine efforts

(After the 4th dose vaccine decision, Prof. Dr. Esin Davutoglu Şenol explained that:

There is currently no direct evidence for repeated doses other than indirect data.”

Prof. Dr. Esin Şenol kimdir, kaç yaşında ve nereli? İşte Esin Şenol'un  biyografisi

Prof. Dr. Kayihan Pala stated:

Making arrangements without data/evidence that are not based on scientific knowledge is another example of mismanagement.”)

Prof. Dr. Kayıhan Pala hakkındaki soruşturma bitti - Sağlık son dakika  haberler
Above: Prof. Dr. Kayıhan Pala

On 19 August 2021, President Erdogan announced after the cabinet meeting that all levels would start full-time training on 6 September 2021, while non-vaccinated teachers and staff would be asked to test for PCR at least twice a week. 

Starting from 6 September 2021, the Ministry of the Interior circular issued on 20 August 2021 required PCR testing for non-vaccinated persons for activities such as concerts, cinemas, theatres and public transport such as non-private vehicles (planes, buses, trains). 

Health Minister Fahrettin Koca said vaccination appointments have been opened for those with chronic diseases over the age of 12 and for the over-15s.

In the new period, it announced that there was no closure.

Minister of National Education Mahmut Özer said that students and teachers can come to school wearing masks. 

Above: Mahmut Özer

(WSE teachers tend to wear masks these days whilst teaching.)

No photo description available.

On 3 November 2021, Health Minister Koca announced that two doses of Pfizer-BioNTech vaccine would be given after six months.

Turkey set to start human trials for COVID-19 vaccine - Turkey News

During the pandemic, Turkey has provided funds, doctors, dispatched medical equipment such as PPE, PCR testing kits, and other assistance to at least 55 countries.

The dispatched medical equipment includes 1,300,000 N-95 masks and 300,000 PCR testing kits in April 2020 alone.

By setting itself up as a provider rather than a recipient of aid, Turkey portrayed itself as a valuable partner in combating the global spread of SARS-CoV-2.

Turkey news roundup - Coronavirus Update - Mar. 19, 2020 - Atlantic Council

Has the pandemic been handled well in Turkey?

In my assessment, it has.

No photo description available.
Above: Your humble blogger

In Turkey, a person is required to obtain a HES code for contact tracing.

HES Code Turkey: 6 Frequently Asked Questions! - Sale Property Turkey

(I was issued mine on 1 March 2021 at the Istanbul bus terminal before I was permitted to take a bus to Eskişehir.)

Above: Grand Istanbul Bus Station

HES stands for Hayat Eve Sığar, which in the Turkish language means “Life Fits Into Home“.

The code helps you safely share your Covid-19 risk status with individuals and institutions for daily activities such as transportation or circulations for traveling. 

It is mandatory to have a valid HES (Hayat Eve Sığar) code when purchasing a bus, train, plane ticket, travelling long distances between cities inside Turkey, or entering public assembly areas such as shopping centres.

In order to get the code you have to fıll in a form. 

In case you haven’t filled in the form correctly or you gave misleading statements, you might face administrative and legal sanctions or even may not be permitted to enter Turkey.

(Unless you are a Turkish citizen or residence permit holder).

The HES Code is a personal code implemented by the Ministry of Health in order to reduce the presence of those who tested positive for COVID-19 or have had contact with a positive patient, to prevent them from participating in public activities.

Shopping centres will often have sensors that record your body temperature to ensure that feverish individuals are denied access to public exposure.

How to get a HES code | Summer Home

The PCR test at the hospital this evening was performed by a woman encased behind a plexiglass barrier with plastic sheathed openings where her gloved arms reached out with a large stick to impale me in my nostril.

Above: COVID testing kiosk, India

I am reminded of the line used by Chandler (Matthew Perry) in an episode of Friends:

“You have to stop the Q-tip when there is resistance”

Before cleaning one’s ears, a person has to make sure that they don’t push the cotton swab too deep inside the ear because the more you push it inside, it actually starts damaging your brain.

So when Joey (Matt Leblanc) talks utter nonsense, Chandler just came up with the line: 

“You have to stop the Q-tip when there is resistance”.

This is to portray how Joey had been pushing the cotton swabs too deep inside his ear that his brain got damaged and couldn’t make sense while he was talking.

Friends: Stop the Q-Tip When There's Resistance

It feels like brain matter must surely be punctured when the test stick is violently rammed up one’s nose.

Clearly it takes a special sort of person to regularly stab folks up the nose on a constant basis.

I wonder what the job description must be for this activity.

I received a negative result the following morning and then dashed off to the train station bound for Istanbul.

I would need to show this result before boarding the train in Eskişehir, at the Istanbul airport check-in, at the airplane boarding gate, upon arrival at customs in Zürich, Switzerland, and upon entering a steakhouse restaurant that same evening in Konstanz, Germany.

Above: Eskişehir Station

Above: Interior of Istanbul Airport

German Logo of Zurich Airport

HEUBODEN, Konstanz - Restaurant Bewertungen, Telefonnummer & Fotos -  Tripadvisor
Above: Interior of Heuboden Steakhouse, Konstanz, Germany

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Thursday 30 December 2021

The only ray of light which illuminates the gloom is when – miracle of miracles, wonder of wonders – you have somehow still avoided contracting the corona virus.

You have been a sensible soul – for the most part.

These past two years you have worn a protective mask, have endured lockdowns, have kept your distance from others, have been vaccinated (twice) and you anticipate your appointment to get your 3rd shot – a booster – soon.

You certainly are not enjoying these times wherein you find yourself.

Masks are uncomfortable and make it challenging for those with glasses to see.

You cannot remember the last time you attended a concert and you wonder when or if you might ever go to one again.

You resent the compulsion of governments and institutions that demand proof of health and record of vaccinations as almost an invasion of your private medical history.

And yet in the name of public safety you cooperate with all the rules and restrictions, seeing no reason to doubt science or the deadly dangers of this prevalent pandemic.

Scientifically accurate atomic model of the external structure of SARS-CoV-2. Each "ball" is an atom.

The COVID-19 pandemic is an ongoing global pandemic of corona virus disease 2019 (COVID-19) caused by severe acute respiratory syndrome corona virus 2 (SARS-CoV-2).

The novel virus (a virus that has not previously been recorded) was first identified from an outbreak in the Chinese city of Wuhan in December 2019, and attempts to contain it there failed, allowing it to spread across the globe.

COVID-19 Outbreak World Map Total Deaths per Capita.svg

The World Health Organization (WHO) (a specialized agency of the United Nations responsible for international declared a Public Health Emergency of International Concern (a formal declaration of “an extraordinary event which is determined to constitute a public health risk to other States through the international spread of disease and to potentially require a coordinated international response“, formulated when a situation arises that is “serious, sudden, unusual, or unexpected”, which “carries implications for public health beyond the affected state’s national border” and “may require immediate international action“) on 30 January 2020, and a pandemic on 11 March 2020.

World Health Organization Logo.svg

As of 28 December 2021, the pandemic had caused more than 281 million cases and 5.4 million deaths, making it one of the deadliest in history.

Cumulative confirmed COVID-19 deaths, OWID.svg

113 countries have more confirmed cases than the People’s Republic of China, the country where the outbreak began.

All countries with more cases than China have at least 100,000 cases, including Greece, Portugal, Hungary, Romania, Chile, Egypt, Austalia, Japan and South Korea.

Above: Cumulative confirmed cases by country, as of 1 December 2021

Thailand was the first country to report at least one case outside China.

Flag of Thailand
Above: Flag of Thailand

The United States and Italy were the first two countries to overtake China in terms of the number of confirmed cases.

Flag of the United States
Above: Flag of the United States of America

The country that overtook China in terms of the number of confirmed cases several days later was the United Kingdom.

A flag composed of a red cross edged in white and superimposed on a red saltire, also edged in white, superimposed on a white saltire on a blue background
Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

Japan was the first country in East Asia to overtake China in terms of the number of confirmed cases.

Centered deep red circle on a white rectangle
Above: Flag of Japan

The second country in East Asia that overtook China in terms of the number of confirmed cases was South Korea, while the third and most recent one was Mongolia.

Centered taegeuk on a white rectangle inclusive of four black trigrams
Above: Flag of South Korea

The most recent country that overtook China in terms of the number of confirmed cases was Laos.

Flag of Laos
Above: Flag of Laos

Today, 13 most affected countries have at least five million cases, including the United States, India, Brazil, the United Kingdom, Russia, France, Germany, Spain, Italy and Argentina.

Horizontal tricolour flag bearing, from top to bottom, deep saffron, white, and green horizontal bands. In the centre of the white band is a navy-blue wheel with 24 spokes.
Above: Flag of India

At the moment, 27 most affected countries, including Thailand, the Czech Republic, South Africa, Canada and Poland, have at least two million cases.

Flag of the Czech Republic
Above: Flag of the Czech Republic

The first person infected with the disease, known as COVID-19, was discovered at the beginning of December 2019.

The disease has spread very easily to the United States, India, Brazil, the United Kingdom, Russia, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Argentina, Poland, South Africa, the Czech Republic, Thailand, Canada, Romania, Chile, Japan, Portugal, Hungary, Greece, South Korea, Egypt, Australia, and many other countries.

Flag of Russia
Above: Flag of Russia

The COVID-19 outbreak has been a pandemic since 11 March 2020.

A total of about 5.4 million deaths worldwide pertaining to COVID-19 was reported as of late December 2021 (early winter in the northern hemisphere and early summer in the southern hemisphere).

At the beginning of December 2021, the second anniversary of the beginning of the COVID-19 outbreak was commemorated.

Scientifically accurate atomic model of the external structure of SARS-CoV-2. Each "ball" is an atom.

COVID-19 symptoms range from none to deadly.

Severe illness is more likely in elderly patients and those with certain underlying medical conditions.

COVID-19 is airborne, spread via air contaminated by microscopic virions (viral particles).

The risk of infection is highest among people in close proximity, but can occur over longer distances, particularly indoors in poorly ventilated areas.

Transmission rarely occurs via contaminated surfaces or fluids.

Infected persons are typically contagious for 10 days, often beginning before or without symptoms.

Mutations produced many strains (variants) with varying degrees of infectivity and virulence.

There are many variants of SARS-CoV-2, the virus that causes COVID-19.

Some are believed, or have been stated, to be of particular importance due to their potential for increased transmissibility, increased virulence, or reduced effectiveness of vaccines against them.

These variants contribute to the continuation of the COVID-19 pandemic.

Five SARS-CoV-2 variants have been designated as variants of concern (a category used for variants of the virus where mutations in their spike protein – the largest of the four major structural proteins found in corona viruses. 

The spike protein assembles into trimers (a macromolecular complex formed by three, macromolecules) that form large structures, called spikes or peplomers  that project from the surface of the virion.

The distinctive appearance of these spikes when visualized using negative stain transmission electron microscopy, “recalling the solar corona“, gives the virus family its name.

Omikron, Delta, Alpha und Beta: Die Corona-Varianten | MDR.DE

The Alpha variant, also known as lineage B.1.1.7, is a variant of SARS-CoV-2, the virus that causes COVID-19.

One of several variants of concern, the variant is estimated to be 40% – 80% more transmissible than the wild type (the typical form of a species as it occurs in nature) SARS-CoV-2 (with most estimates occupying the middle to higher end of this range). 

Above: Symptoms of COVID-19

Alpha was first detected in November 2020 from a sample taken in September in the UK, and began to spread quickly by mid-December, around the same time as infections surged.

This increase is thought to be at least partly because of one or more mutations in the virus’ spike protein.

The variant is also notable for having more mutations than normally seen.

As of January 2021, more than half of all genomic sequencing of SARS-CoV-2 was carried out in the UK.

This has given rise to questions as to how many other important variants may be circulating around the world undetected.

On 2 February 2021, Public Health England reported that they had detected “a limited number of B.1.1.7 VOC-202012/01 genomes with E484K mutations“, which they dubbed Variant of Concern 202102/02 (VOC-202102/02).

PublicHealthEngland.svg

Imperial College London investigated over a million people in England while the Alpha variant was dominant and discovered a wide range of further symptoms linked to Covid.

Chills, loss of appetite, headache and muscle aches” were most common in infected people, as well as classic symptoms.

Shield of Imperial College London.svg
Above: Coat of arms of Imperial College London

(The name of the mutation, E484K, refers to an exchange whereby the glumatic acid (E) – an α-amino acid that is used by almost all living beings in the biosynthesis of proteins, non-essential in humans, meaning that the body can synthesize it – is replaced by lysine (K) – another α-amino acid that is used in the biosynthesis of proteins, which the human body cannot synthesize, but is essential in humans and must be obtained from one’s diet.

It is nicknamed “Eeek“.

E484K has been reported to be an escape mutation (i.e., a mutation that improves a virus’s ability to evade the host’s immune system) from at least one form of monoclonal antibody (an antibody made by cloning a unique white blood cell) against SARS-CoV-2, indicating there may be a “possible change in antigenicity (the capacity of a chemical structure to bind specifically with a group of certain products that have adaptive immunity)”.

Coronavirus' Alpha variant has learnt how to evade innate immune system:  Research, Science News | wionews.com

(White blood cells, also called leukocytes or leucocytes, are the cells of the immune system that are involved in protecting the body against both infectious disease and foreign invaders.

All white blood cells are produced and derived from cells in the bone marrow known as hematopoietic stem cells.

Leukocytes are found throughout the body, including the blood and lymphatic system.)

Above: Artificially colored electron micrograph of blood cells. From left to right: erythrocyte, thrombocyte, leukocyte.

The Gamma variant (lineage P.1), the Zeta variant (lineage P.2, also known as lineage B.1.1.28.2) and the Beta variant (501.V2) exhibit this mutation.

A limited number of lineage B.1.1.7 genomes with E484K mutation have also been detected. 

Monoclonal and serum-derived antibodies are reported to be from 10 to 60 times less effective in neutralising virus bearing the E484K mutation.

On 2 February 2021, medical scientists in the United Kingdom reported the detection of E484K in 11 samples (out of 214,000 samples), a mutation that may compromise current vaccine effectiveness.)

Above: False-colour transmission electron micrograph of a B.1.1.7 variant corona virus. The variant’s increased transmissibility is believed to be due to changes in structure of the spike proteins, shown here in green.

One of the mutations (N501Y) is also present in the Beta and Gamma variants.

N501Y denotes a change from asparagine (N) (an α-amino acid that is used in the biosynthesis of proteins, non-essential in humans, meaning the body can synthesize it) to tyrosine (Y) (one of the 20 standard amino acids used by cells to synthesize proteins, and found in many high-protein food products (such as chicken, turkey, fish, milk, yogurt, cottage cheese, cheese, peanuts, almonds, pumpkn seeds, soy products and lima beans, but also in avocados and bananas), the Dietary Reference Intake (recommended dietary allowance: RDA) is 42 mg per kilogram of body weight).

N501Y has been nicknamed “Nelly“.

This change is believed to increase binding affinity because of its position inside the spike glycoprotein’s receptor-binding domain, which binds ACE2 in human cells.

From Nelly to Doug: nicknames emerge for growing list of Covid variants |  Coronavirus | The Guardian

(Angiotensin-converting enzyme 2 (ACE2) is an enzyme (a protein that acts as a biochemical catalyst) that can be found either attached to the membrance of cells (mACE2) in the intestines, kidney, testis, gallbladder and heart, or in a soluble form (sACE2). 

Both membrane bound and soluble ACE2 are integral parts of the Renin Angiotensin Aldosterone System (RAAS) that exists to keep the body’s blood pressure in check.

mACE2 also serves as the entry point into cells for some corona viruses.)

Above: Total number of B.1.1.7 sequences by country as of 25 March 2021 – The darker the region, the more cases therein

On 31 May 2021, the WHO announced that the Variant of Concern would be labelled “Alpha” for use in public communications.

α1-Antitrypsin deficiency and the risk of COVID-19: an urgent call to  action - The Lancet Respiratory Medicine

The Beta variant, also known as lineage B.1.351, is a variant of SARS-CoV-2, the virus that causes COVID-19.

One of several SARS-CoV-2 variants believed to be of particular importance, it was first detected in the Nelson Mandela Bay metropolitan area of the Eastern Cape province of South Africa in October 2020, which was reported by the country’s health department on 18 December 2020.

Official seal of Nelson Mandela Bay
Above: Official seal of Nelson Mandela Bay

The WHO labelled the variant as Beta variant, not to replace the scientific name but as a name for the public to commonly refer to.

The WHO considers it to be a variant of concern.

Above: Countries with confirmed cases of Beta variant as of 25 June 2021 – The darker the region, the more cases therein

The Gamma variant, also known as lineage P.1, is one of the variants of SARS-CoV-2, the virus that causes COVID-19.

This variant of SARS-CoV-2 has been named lineage P.1 and has 17 amino acid substitutions (a change from one amino acid to a different amino acid in a protein due to point mutation in the corresponding DNA sequence), ten of which in its spike protein, including these three designated to be of particular concern: N501Y (Nelly), E484K (Eeek) and K417T.

Above: Total number of P.1 sequences by country as of 21 April 2021 – The darker the area, the more cases therein.

This variant of SARS-CoV-2 was first detected by the National Institute of Infectious Diseases (NIID) of Japan, on 6 January 2021 in four people who had arrived in Tokyo having visited Amazonas, Brazil, four days earlier.

National Institute of Infectious Diseases.JPG
Above: National Institute of Infectious Diseases, Tokyo, Japan

It was subsequently declared to be in circulation in Brazil.

Under the simplified naming scheme proposed by the WHO, P.1 has been labeled Gamma variant, and is currently considered a variant of concern.

Gamma caused widespread infection in early 2021 in the city of Manaus, the capital of Amazonas, although the city had already experienced widespread infection in May 2020, with a study indicating high seroprevalence (the number of persons in a population who test positive for a specific disease based on serology (blood serum) specimens, which is often presented as a percent of the total specimens tested or as a proportion per 100,000 persons tested)  of antibodies for SARS-CoV-2. 

Top left, clockwise: Manaus–Iranduba Bridge; Amazon Theatre; Meeting of Waters; Amazon Arena; Opening of the Ports Monument and view of the city.
Above: Images of Manaus, Brazil

A research article published in Science Journal indicates that P.1 infected people have a greater chance of transmissibility and death than B.1.1.28 infected ones.

The Gamma variant comprises the two distinct subvariants 28-AM-1 and 28-AM-2, which both carry the K417T, E484K, N501Y mutations, and which both developed independently of each other within the same Brazilian Amazonas region.

Gamma is notably different from the Zeta variant (lineage P.2) which is also circulating strongly in Brazil.

In particular, Zeta only carries the E484K mutation and has neither of the other two mutations of concern, N501Y and K417T.

Science Vol. 1 (1880).jpg

The Delta variant is a variant of SARS-CoV-2, the virus that causes COVID-19.

It was first detected in India in late 2020.

The Delta variant was named on 31 May 2021 and had spread to over 179 countries by 22 November 2021.

The WHO indicated in June 2021 that the Delta variant was becoming the dominant strain globally.

It has mutations in the gene encoding the SARS-CoV-2 spike protein causing the substitutions T478K, P681R and L452R, which are known to affect transmissibility of the virus as well as whether it can be neutralised by antibodies for previously circulating variants of the COVID-19 virus.

Above: Countries with confirmed cases of Delta variant as of 10 August 2021 – The darker the region, the more cases therein.

The name of the mutation, P681R, refers to an exchange whereby proline (P) (an amino acid used in the biosynthesis of proteins) is replaced by arginine (R) (another amino acid used in protein biosynthesis, which determines the development stage amd health status of the individual).

The name of the mutation, L452R, refers to an exchange whereby leucine (L) (an essential amino acid used in the biosynthesis of proteins in humans, meaning the body cannot synthesize it, so it must be obtained from one’s diet) is replaced by arginine (R) (another α-amino acid that is used in the biosynthesis of proteins, classified as a semiessential or conditionally essential amino acid, depending on the developmental stage and health status of the individual, though most healthy people do not need to supplement with arginine because it is a component of all protein-containing foods).

L452R is found in both the Delta and Kappa variants which first circulated in India, but have since spread around the world.

L452R is a relevant mutation in this strain that enhances ACE2 receptor binding ability and can reduce vaccine-stimulated antibodies from attaching to this altered spike protein.

L452R, some studies show, could even make the corona virus resistant to T cells, that are class of cells necessary to target and destroy virus-infected cells.

They are different from antibodies that are useful in blocking corona virus particles and preventing it from proliferating.

New Covid symptoms to look out for - WCHG

The Delta variant is thought to be one of the most transmissible respiratory viruses known. 

In August 2021, Public Health England (PHE) reported secondary attack rate in household contacts of non-travel or unknown cases for Delta to be 10.8% vis-à-vis 10.2% for the Alpha variant. 

The case fatality rate for those 386,835 people with Delta is 0.3%, where 46% of the cases and 6% of the deaths are unvaccinated and below 50 years old.

Immunity from previous recovery or COVID-19 vaccines are effective in preventing severe disease or hospitalisation from infection with the variant.

On 7 May 2021, PHE changed their classification of lineage B.1.617.2 from a variant under investigation (VUI) to a variant of concern (VOC) based on an assessment of transmissibility being at least equivalent to B.1.1.7 (Alpha variant).

The UK’s Scientific Advisory Group for Emergencies (SAGE) (a British government body that advises the central government in emergencies, usually chaired by the UK’s Chief Scientific Adviser) using May data estimated a “realistic” possibility of being 50% more transmissible.

On 11 May 2021, the WHO also classified this lineage VOC, and said that it showed evidence of higher transmissibility and reduced neutralisation.

Delta Plus variant: What is Delta Plus Covid variant | India News - Times  of India

On 15 June 2021, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) declared Delta a variant of concern.

The variant is thought to be partly responsible for India’s deadly second wave of the pandemic beginning in February 2021.

United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention logo.svg

(India began its vaccination programme on 16 January 2021.

On 19 January 2021, nearly a year after the first reported case in the country, Lakshadweep became the last region of India to report its first case.

By February 2021, daily cases had fallen to 9,000 per-day.

Location of Lakshadweep Islands
Above: Location of Lakshadweep Islands, India

However, by early-April 2021, a major second wave of infections took hold in the country with destructive consequences. 

On 9 April, India surpassed 1 million active cases, and by 12 April, India overtook Brazil as having the second-most COVID-19 cases worldwide.

By late April, India passed 2.5 million active cases and was reporting an average of 300,000 new cases and 2,000 deaths per-day.

Some analysts feared this was an undercount.

On 30 April, India reported over 400,000 new cases and over 3,500 deaths in one day.

India COVID-19 cases density map.svg
Above: Map of cumulative COVID-19 cases in India, 18 May 2021

Multiple factors have been proposed to have potentially contributed to the sudden spike in cases, including highly-infectious variants of concern such as Lineage B.1.617, a lack of preparations as temporary hospitals were often dismantled after cases started to decline, and new facilities were not built, and health and safety precautions being poorly-implemented or enforced during weddings, festivals (such as Holi on 29 March, and the Haridwar Kumbh Mela which was linked to linked to at least 1,700 positive cases between 10 and 14 April including cases in Hindu seers), sporting events (such as the Indian Premier League), state and local elections in which politicians and activists have held in several states, and in public places.

Above: Holi Festival of Colors, Sri Sri Radha Krishna Temple, Utah

Above: Bathing ghat on the Ganges during Kumbh Mela

Indian Premier League Official Logo.svg

An economic slowdown put pressure on the government to lift restrictions.

There had been a feeling of exceptionalism based on the hope that India’s young population and childhood immunisation scheme would blunt the impact of the virus.

Models may have underestimated projected cases and deaths due to the under-reporting of cases in the country.

COVID-19: India reports new 'Delta plus' coronavirus variant of concern |  World News | Sky News

Due to high demand, the vaccination programme began to be hit with supply issues.

Exports of the Oxford-AstraZeneca vaccine were suspended to meet domestic demand, there have been shortages of the raw materials required to manufacture vaccines domestically, while hesitancy and a lack of knowledge among poorer, rural communities has also impacted the programme.

Oxford AstraZeneca COVID-19 vaccine AZD1222 - 4.jpg

The second wave placed a major strain on the healthcare system, including a shortage of liquid medical oxygen due to ignored warnings which began in the first wave itself, logistic issues, and a lack of cryogenic tankers.

On 23 April, Modi met via videoconference with liquid oxygen suppliers, where he acknowledged the need to “provide solutions in a very short time“, and acknowledged efforts such as increases in production, and the use of rail and air transport to deliver oxygen supplies.

A large number of new oxygen plants were announced.

The installation burden was shared by the centre, coordination with foreign countries with regard to oxygen plants received in the form of aid, and DRDO.

A number of countries sent emergency aid to India in the form of oxygen supplies, medicines, raw material for vaccines and ventilators.

This reflected a policy shift in India.

Comparable aid offers had been rejected during the past 16 years.

Official portrait of the Prime Minister Narendra Modi, November 2020 (cropped).jpg
Above: Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi

The number of new cases had begun to steadily drop by late May.

On 25 May, the country reported 195,994 new cases — its lowest daily increase since 13 April.

However, the mortality rate has remained high. 

By 24 May, India recorded over 300,000 deaths attributed to COVID-19. 

Around 100,000 deaths had occurred in the last 26 days, and 50,000 in the last 12.

In May 2021, WHO declared that two variants first found in India will be referred to as ‘Delta‘ and ‘Kappa‘.

Karnataka announced a COVID-19 Memorial.

India's first coronavirus victims' memorial installed - The Hindu
Above: Karnataka Covid-19 Memorial

On 25 August 2021, Soumya Swaminathan said that India “may be entering some kind of stage of endemicity where there is low level transmission or moderate level transmission going on” but nothing as severe as before.

In other words, India is learning to live with the virus.

The Director General, ICMR and Secretary, DHR, Dr. Soumya Swaminathan, in New Delhi on January 19, 2016.jpg
Above: Dr. Soumiya Swaminathan, Chief Scientist, World Health Organization

India announced a mandatory 10-day quarantine on travellers arriving from United Kingdom irrespective of their vaccination status starting 4 October 2021 after the UK also put the same restrictions on travellers from India by not recognizing India’s vaccine certificate.

Education in the UK vs education in India; Which one is better and why?

On 8 October, the UK opened up the restrictions on travellers from 47 countries and locations including India.

It later contributed to a third wave in Fiji, the UK and South Africa.

Flag of Fiji
Above: Flag of Fiji

The WHO warned in July 2021 that it could have a similar effect elsewhere in Europe and Africa.

By late July, it had also driven an increase in daily infections in parts of Asia, the US, Australia and New Zealand.

Yet another COVID variant, Omicron, followed.

A blue field with the Union Flag in the upper hoist quarter, a large white seven-pointed star in the lower hoist quarter, and constellation of five white stars in the fly – one small five-pointed star and four, larger, seven-pointed stars.
Above: Flag of Australia

The Omicron variant is a variant of SARS-CoV-2, the virus that causes COVID-19.

As of December 2021, it is the newest variant.

People re-infected with Omicron report fewer symptoms than first COVID-19  infection | WWLP

It was first reported to the WHO from South Africa on 24 November 2021.

On 26 November 2021, the WHO designated it as a variant of concern and named it “Omicron“, the 15th letter in the Greek alphabet.

The variant has an unusually large number of mutations, several of which are novel and a significant number of which affect the spike protein targeted by most COVID-19 vaccines at the time of the discovery of the Omicron variant.

This level of variation has led to concerns regarding its transmissibility, immune system evasion and vaccine resistance, despite initial reports indicating that the variant causes less serious disease than previous strains.

The variant was quickly designated as being “of concern“. 

Travel restrictions were introduced by several countries in an attempt to slow its international spread.

Compared to previous variants of concern, Omicron is believed to be far more contagious (spreading much quicker) and spreads around 70 times faster than any previous variants in the bronchi (lung airways), but it is less able to penetrate deep lung tissue, and perhaps for this reason there is a considerable reduction in the risk of severe disease requiring hospitalisation. 

However the extremely high rate of spread, combined with its ability to evade both double vaccination and the body’s immune system, means the total number of patients requiring hospital care at any given time is still of great concern.

Omicron variant symptoms: The first thing to do after you feel symptoms -  Deseret News

The new variant was first detected on 22 November 2021 in laboratories in Botswana and South Africa based on samples collected 11–16 November.

The first known sample was collected in South Africa on 8 November. 

Flag of Botswana
Above: Flag of Botswana

In other continents, the first known cases were a person arriving in Hong Kong from South Africa via Qatar on 11 November, and another person who arrived in Belgium from Egypt via Turkey on the same date.

A flag with a white 5-petalled flower design on solid red background
Above: Flag of Hong Kong

As of 16 December 2021, the variant has been confirmed in more than 80 countries.

The WHO estimated that by mid-December, Omicron likely was in most countries, whether they had detected it or not.

Flag of Belgium
Above: Flag of Belgium

Symptoms of COVID-19 are variable, ranging from mild symptoms to severe illness.

Common symptoms include:

  • headache
  • loss of smell (anosmia)
  • loss of taste (ageusia)
  • nasal congestion
  • runny nose
  • cough
  • muscle pain
  • sore throat
  • fever
  • diarrhea
  • breathing difficulties

People with the same infection may have different symptoms, and their symptoms may change over time.

Three common clusters of symptoms have been identified:

  • one respiratory symptom cluster with cough, sputum/mucus, shortness of breath, and fever
  • a musculoskeletal symptom cluster with muscle and joint pain, headache, and fatigue
  • a cluster of digestive symptoms with abdominal pain, vomiting, and diarrhea.

In people without prior ear, nose, and throat disorders, loss of taste combined with loss of smell is associated with COVID-19 and is reported in as many as 88% of cases.

Of people who show symptoms:

  • 81% develop only mild to moderate symptoms (up to mild pneumonia)
  • 14% develop severe symptoms (dyspnea/shortness of breath, hypoxia – a condition in which the body or a region of the body is deprived of adequate oxygen supply at the tissue level, classified as either generalized (affecting the whole body) or local (affecting a region of the body) – or more than 50% lung involvement on imaging)
  • 5% of patients suffer critical symptoms (respiratory failure, shovk or multiorgan dysfunction).

At least a third of the people who are infected with the virus do not develop noticeable symptoms at any point in time.

These asymptomatic carriers tend not to get tested and can spread the disease.

Other infected people will develop symptoms later, called “pre-symptomatic“, or have very mild symptoms and can also spread the virus.

As is common with infections, there is a delay between the moment a person first becomes infected and the appearance of the first symptoms.

The median delay for COVID-19 is four to five days.

Most symptomatic people experience symptoms within two to seven days after exposure.

Almost all will experience at least one symptom within 12 days.

Most people recover from the acute phase of the disease.

However, some people – over half of a cohort of home-isolated young adults – continue to experience a range of effects, such as fatigue, for months after recovery, a condition called long COVID.

Long-term damage to organs has been observed.

Multi-year studies are underway to further investigate the long-term effects of the disease.

COVID-19 symptoms and severity

COVID-19 vaccines have been approved and widely distributed in various countries since December 2020.

COVID‑19 vaccine is a vaccine intended to provide acquired immunity against severe acute respiratory syndrome corona virus 2 (SARS‑CoV‑2), the virus that causes corona virus disease 2019 (COVID-19).

Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, an established body of knowledge existed about the structure and function of corona viruses causing diseases like severe acute respiratory syndrome (SARS) and Middle East respiratory syndrome (MERS).

File:Corona vaccination mechanism.webm
Above: Corona vaccination mechanism

Severe acute respiratory syndrome (SARS) is a viral respiratory disease of zoonotic (coming from animals) origin caused by severe acute respiratory syndrome corona virus (SARS-CoV or SARS-CoV-1), the first identified strain of the SARS corona virus species severe acute respiratory syndrome-related corona virus (SARSr-CoV).

The first known cases occurred in November 2002.

The syndrome caused the 2002 – 2004 SARS outbreak.

Around late 2017, Chinese scientists traced the virus through the intermediary of Asian palm civets to cave-dwelling horseshoe bats in Xiyang Yi Ethnic Township, Yunnan.

Asian Palm Civet Over A Tree.jpg
Above: Asian palm civet

See caption.
Above: Horseshoe bat

SARS was a relatively rare disease.

At the end of the epidemic in June 2003, the incidence was 8,469 cases with a case fatality rate (CFR) of 11%.

No cases of SARS-CoV-1 have been reported worldwide since 2004.

SARS virion.gif
Above: An electron microscopic image of a thin section of SARS-CoV within the cytoplasm of an infected cell

Middle East respiratory syndrome (MERS) is a viral respiratory infection caused by the Middle East respiratory syndrome-related corona virus (MERS-CoV). 

Symptoms may range from none, to mild, to severe.

Typical symptoms include fever, cough, diarrhea and shortness of breath. 

The disease is typically more severe in those with other health problems.

The first identified case occurred in June 2012 in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.

Most cases have occurred in the Arabian Peninsula.

Over 2,500 cases have been reported as of January 2021, including 45 cases in the year 2020.

About 35% of those who are diagnosed with the disease die from it.

Larger outbreaks have occurred in South Korea (2015) and in Saudi Arabia (2018).

MERS-CoV is a corona virus believed to be originally from bats. 

However, humans are typically infected from camels, either during direct contact or indirectly. 

spread between humans typically requires close contact with an infected person.

Its spread is uncommon outside of hospitals.

Thus, its risk to the global population is currently deemed to be fairly low. 

Diagnosis is by rRT – PCR testing of blood and respiratory samples.

MERS-CoV electron micrograph3.jpg
Above: MERS-CoV particles as seen by negative stain electron microscopy

(Polymerase chain reaction (PCR) is a method widely used to rapidly make millions to billions of copies (complete copies or partial copies) of a specific DNA sample, allowing scientists to take a very small sample of DNA and amplify it (or a part of it) to a large enough amount to study in detail.

PCR was invented in 1983 by the American biochemist Kary Mullis at Cetus Corporation.

Kary Mullis.jpg
Above: Kary Mullis (1944 – 2019)

It is fundamental to many of the procedures used in genetic testing and research, including analysis of ancient samples of DNA and identification of infectious agents.

Using PCR, copies of very small amounts of DNA sequences are exponentially amplified in a series of cycles of temperature changes.

PCR is now a common and often indispensable technique used in medical laboratory research for a broad variety of applications including biomedical research and criminal forsenics.

Applications of the technique include: 

  • DNA cloning for sequencing, gene cloning and manipulation, gene mutagenesis
  • construction of DNA-based phylogenies, or functional analysis of genes 
  • diagnosis and monitoring of genetic disorders
  • amplification of ancient DNA
  • analysis of genetic fingerprints for DNA profiling (for example, in forensic science and parentage testing)
  • detection of pathogens in nucleic acide tests for the diagnosis of infectious diseases)

Above: Placing a strip of eight PCR tubes into a thermal cycler

As of 2021, there is no specific vaccine or treatment for MERS, but a number are being developed.

The WHO recommends that those who come in contact with camels wash their hands and not touch sick camels.

They also recommend that camel-based food products be appropriately cooked.

Treatments that help with the symptoms and support body functioning may be used.

Previous infection with MERS can confer cross-reactive immunity to SARS-CoV-2 and provide partial protection against COVID-19.

However, co-infection with SARS-CoV-2 and MERS is possible and could lead to a recombination event.

Reassortment is the mixing of the genetic material of a species into new combinations in different individuals.

Several different processes contribute to reassortment, including assortment of chromosomes, and chromosomal crossover.

It is particularly used when two similar viruses that are infecting the same cell exchange genetic material.

In particular, reassortment occurs among influenza viruses, whose genomes consist of eight distinct segments of RNA.

These segments act like mini-chromosomes, and each time a flu virus is assembled, it requires one copy of each segment.

If a single host (a human, a chicken, or other animal) is infected by two different strains of the influenza virus, then it is possible that new assembled viral particles will be created from segments whose origin is mixed, some coming from one strain and some coming from another.

The new reassortant strain will share properties of both of its parental lineages.

Reassortment is responsible for some of the major genetic shifts in the history of the influenza virus.

In the 1957 “Asian flu” and 1968 “Hong Kong flu” pandemics, flu strains were caused by reassortment between an avian (bird) virus and a human virus. 

In addition, the H1N1 virus responsible for the 2009 swine flu pandemic has an unusual mix of swine, avian and human influenza genetic sequences.

H1N1 virus
Above: H1N1 virus

This knowledge about the structure and function of corona viruses causing diseases accelerated the development of various vaccine platforms during early 2020.

The initial focus of SARS-CoV-2 vaccines was on preventing symptomatic, often severe illness.

On 10 January 2020, the SARS-CoV-2 genetic sequence data was shared through the Global Initiative on Sharing Avian Influenza Data (GISAID).

Official GISAID logo

By 19 March, the global pharmaceutical industry announced a major commitment to address COVID‑19.

The COVID‑19 vaccines are widely credited for their role in reducing the severity and death caused by COVID‑19.

Many countries have implemented phased distribution plans that prioritize those at highest risk of complications, such as the elderly, and those at high risk of exposure and transmission, such as healthcare workers.

As of 28 December 2021, 9.02 billion doses of COVID‑19 vaccines have been administered worldwide based on official reports from national public health agencies.

By December 2020, more than 10 billion vaccine doses had been preordered by countries, with about half of the doses purchased by high income countries comprising 14% of the world’s population.

Above: Vaccine platforms being employed for SARS-CoV-2 vaccine design.
This figure illustrates the different vaccine approaches being taken for the design of human SARS-CoV-2 vaccines.
Whole virus vaccines include both attenuated and inactivated forms of the virus and subunits of inactivated virus can also be used.
Protein and peptide subunit vaccines are usually combined with an adjuvant in order to enhance immunogenicity.
The main emphasis in SARS-CoV-2 vaccine development has been on using the whole spike protein in its trimeric form or components of it, such as the RBD region.
Multiple non-replicating viral vector vaccines have been developed, particularly focused on adenovirus; while there has been less emphasis on the replicating viral vector constructs.
Nucleic acid-based approaches include DNA and mRNA vaccines, often packaged into nanocarriers such as virus-like particles (VLPs) and lipid nanoparticles (LNPs).
Nanoparticle and VLP vaccines can also have antigen attached to their surface or combined in their core. The immune cell therapy approach uses genetically modified SARS-CoV-2-specific cytotoxic T cells and dendritic cells expressing viral antigens to protect against SARS-CoV-2 infection.
Each of these vaccine approaches has benefits and disadvantages in terms of cost and ease of production, safety profile and immunogenicity, and it remains to be seen which of the many candidates in development protect against COVID-19.

GISAID is a global science initiative and primary source established in 2008 that provides open-access to genomic data of influenza viruses and the corona virus responsible for the COVID-19 pandemic.

On 10 January 2020, the first whole-genome sequences of SARS-CoV-2 were made available on GISAID, which enabled global responses to the pandemic, including the development of the first vaccines and diagnostic tests to detect SARS-CoV-2.

GISAID facilitates genomic epidemiology and real-time surveillance to monitor the emergence of new COVID-19 viral strains across the planet.

Since its establishment as an alternative to sharing avian influenza data via conventional public domain archives, GISAID has been recognized for incentivizing rapid exchange of outbreak data during the H1N1 pandemic in 2009, the H7N9 epidemic in 2013, and the COVID-19 pandemic in early 2020.

GISAID was recognized for its importance to global health by G20 health ministers in 2017. 

In 2020 the WHO chief scientist called the data science initiative “a game changer”.

Its closed access license, however, has been criticized by hundreds of researchers.

Official GISAID logo

Other recommended preventative measures include social distancing, masking, improving ventilation and air filtration, and quarantining those who have been exposed or are symptomatic. 

Help Stop the Spread of Coronavirus and Protect Your Family | FDA

Social distancing, or physical distancing is a set of non-pharmaceutical interventions or measures taken to prevent the spread of a contagious disease by maintaining a physical distance between people and reducing the number of times people come into close contact with each other.

It involves keeping a distance of six feet or two meters from others and avoiding gathering together in large groups.

Floor markings for social distancing

During the current COVID-19 pandemic, social distancing and related measures were emphasised by several governments as alternatives to an enforced quarantine of heavily affected areas.

According to UNESCO monitoring, more than a hundred countries have implemented nationwide school closures in response to COVID-19, impacting over half the world’s student population.

UNESCO logo English.svg

In the UK, the government advised the public to avoid public spaces.

Cinemas and theatres voluntarily closed to encourage the government’s message.

With many people disbelieving that COVID-19 is any worse than the seasonal flu, it has been difficult to convince the public to voluntarily adopt social distancing practices.

CovidUK.png
Above: COVID-UK

In Belgium, media reported a rave was attended by at least 300 before it was broken up by local authorities.

Location of Belgium (dark green) – in Europe (green & dark grey) – in the European Union (green)
Above: Location of Belgium (dark green)

In France, teens making nonessential trips are fined up to US $150.

File:Flag of France.svg
Above: Flag of France

Beaches were closed in Florida and Alabama to disperse partygoers during spring break. 

Spring break destinations where you won't find spring breakers

Weddings were broken up in New Jersey and an 8 p.m. curfew was imposed in Newark.

New York, New Jersey, Connecticut and Pennsylvania were the first states to adopt coordinated social distancing policies which closed down non-essential businesses and restricted large gatherings.

Flag of New Jersey
Above: Flag of New Jersey

Shelter in place orders in California were extended to the entire state on 19 March.

Flag of California

On the same day, Texas declared a public disaster and imposed statewide restrictions.

Flag of Texas
Above: Flag of Texas

These preventive measures such as social-distancing and self-isolation prompted the widespread closure of primary, secondary and post-secondary schools in more than 120 countries.

As of 23 March 2020, more than 1.2 billion learners were out of school due to school closures in response to COVID-19.

Given low rates of COVID-19 symptoms among children, the effectiveness of school closures has been called into question.

Even when school closures are temporary, it carries high social and economic costs.

However, the significance of children in spreading COVID-19 is unclear. 

While the full impact of school closures during the coronavirus pandemic are not yet known, UNESCO advises that school closures have negative impacts on local economies and on learning outcomes for students.

UNICEF, EU concerned about impact of school closures on children

In early March 2020, the sentiment “Stay The F**k Home” was coined by Florian Reifschneider, a German engineer and was quickly echoed by notable celebrities such as Taylor Swift, Ariana Grande and Busy Philipps in hopes of reducing and delaying the peak of the outbreak. 

Stay the F**K Home Graphic Tee - Sniff A Pickle

Facebook, Twitter and Instagram also joined the campaign with similar hashtags, stickers and filters under #staythefhome, #stayhome, #staythefuckhome and began trending across social media.

The website claims to have reached about two million people online and says the text has been translated into 17 languages.

It has been suggested that improving ventilation and managing exposure duration can reduce transmission.

Treatments include monoclonal antibodies and symptom control.

Governmental interventions include travel restrictions, lockdowns, business restrictions and closures, workplace hazard controls, quarantines, testing systems, and tracing contacts of the infected.

The pandemic triggered severe social and economic disruption around the world, including the largest global recession since the Great Depression.

Widespread supply shortages, including food shortages, were caused by supply chain disruption and panic buying.

The resultant near-global lockdowns saw an unprecedented pollution decrease. 

Environmental impact of COVID-19 pandemic: more negatives than positives |  SpringerLink

Educational institutions and public areas were partially or fully closed in many jurisdictions, and many events were cancelled or postponed. 

Misinformation circulated through social media and mass media.

7 tips on how to spot COVID-19 misinformation | World Economic Forum

Think Before You Click: COVID-19, The Infodemic and Fake News — Data for  Children Collaborative with UNICEF

Political tensions intensified.

The pandemic raised issues of racial and geographic discrimination, health equity, and the balance between public health imperatives and individual rights.

There have been protests, demonstrations and strikes around the world against national responses to the COVID-19 pandemic by governmental bodies.

Some have protested against governmental failure to stem the spread of the virus effectively, while others have been driven by the financial hardship resulting from government measures to contain the virus, including restrictions on travel and entertainment, hitting related industries and casual workers hard.

Protests continue against restrictions on people’s movements, compulsory wearing of face masks, lockdowns, vaccinations and other measures.

Canadian COVID-19 protesters (cropped).jpg

The virus was confirmed to have spread to Switzerland on 25 February 2020 when the first case of COVID-19 was confirmed following a COVID-19 pandemic in Italy.

Flag of Switzerland
Above: Flag of Switzerland

A 70-year-old man in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino which borders Italy, tested positive for SARS-CoV-2.

The man had previously visited Milan.

Swiss cantons

On 27 February, a 28-year-old IT worker from Geneva, who had recently returned from Milan, tested positive and was admitted to the Geneva University Hospital.

A 55-year-old Italian who worked in an international company also tested positive in Geneva. 

Hôpitaux universitaires de Genève 2015 logo.svg

Two Italian children, who were on vacation in Graubünden, tested positive and were hospitalised.

Flag of Canton of the Grisons
Above: Flag of Graubünden

A 26-year-old man in Aargau, who had gone on a business trip the week before and stayed in Verona, tested positive and was hospitalised.

Flag of Aargau
Above: Flag of Aargau

A 30-year-old woman, who had visited Milan, was admitted to a hospital in Zürich. 

Zürich.jpg
Above: Zürich, Switzerland

A 49-year-old man living in France and working in Vaud was confirmed positive in Canton of Vaud.

Flag of Vaud
Above: Flag of Vaud

A young woman, who had travelled to Milan, tested positive in Basel Stadt.

She worked in a daycare centre in Riehen, and after her test had been confirmed, the children at the daycare were put into a two-week quarantine. 

View from the Rhine
Above: Basel, Switzerland

On 28 February, her partner, a 23-year-old man, also tested positive in Basel Landschaft.

Flag of Basel-Landschaft
Above: Flag of Basel Landschaft

Afterwards, multiple cases related to the Italy clusters were discovered in multiple cantons, including Basel City, Zürich and Graubünden.

Multiple isolated cases not related to the Italy clusters were also subsequently confirmed.

Location of Switzerland (green) in Europe (green and dark grey)
Above: Location of Switzerland (dark green)

The government began to hold COVID-19 press conferences to which several members of the Federal Council (Swiss Cabinet) and the Head of the Swiss Corona Task-Force, Daniel Koch (dubbed “Mr. Corona” by the media) assisted.

Daniel Koch is concerned about a liberal system | Knowledge | University of  St.Gallen
Above: Daniel Koch

On 27 February 2020, following the confirmation of COVID-19 cases in the region, Graubünden cancelled the Engadiner Ski Marathon.

On 28 February, the Federal Council banned events involving more than 1,000 people in an effort to curb the spread of the infection.

Multiple events such as carnivals and fairs were either postponed or cancelled. 

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Above: Official photo of the Federal Council, 2022

The Geneva Motor Show, Baselworld, the Bern Carnival and the Carnival of Basel were cancelled. 

Geneva International Motor Show logo.svg

Eingang zur Baselworld (2005)

Above: Basler Fasnacht (Carnival) mask

The University of Bern replaced all face-to-face lectures with more than 250 attendees with online lectures.

On 28 February 2020, the national government, the Federal Council, banned all events with more than 1,000 participants.

Logo Universität Bern.svg

On 3 March, the University of Zürich announced six confirmed cases of the corona virus at the Institute of Mathematics.

As of 5 March, there were 10 confirmed cases at the University of Zürich, at least seven at the I-Math and one at the Center of Dental Medicine.

University of Zurich seal.svg
Above: Logo of the University of Zürich

On 5 March, the Lausanne University Hospital announced that a 74-year-old female coronavirus case had died overnight.

The patient had been hospitalised since 3 March, and had been suffering from chronic illness.

Universitätsspital Lausanne CHUV logo.svg
Above: Logo of the Lausanne University Hospital

On 6 March, the Federal Council announced a “changed strategy” with a focus on the protection of the most vulnerable individuals, i.e., older persons and persons with pre-existing conditions.

Logo der Schweizerischen Eidgenossenschaft.svg
Above: Logo of the Swiss Confederation

On 11 March, a 54-year-old male died from COVID-19 in the Bruderholz Hospital in Basel Landschaft, marking the 4th fatal case in Switzerland.

He had joined a religious event in Mulhouse, France, previous to contracting the virus and suffering from pneumonia.

Above: Bruderholz Hospital, Basel Landschaft

On 13 March, the Federal Council decided to cancel classes in all educational establishments until 4 April 2020, and banned all events (public or private) involving more than 100 people.

It has also decided to partially close its borders and enacted border controls.

The canton of Vaud took more drastic measures, prohibiting all public and private gatherings with more than 50 people, and closing its educational establishments until 30 April.

Above: Official information explaining hygiene rules and correct reaction in case of symptoms (version of 16 March 2020 in the parliament building)

On 16 March 2020, a State of Extraordinary Situation under the Federal Law of Epidemics was declared.

Most shops were closed nationwide.

On 16 March, the Federal Council announced further measures, and a revised ordinance applicable on 17 March.

Measures include the closure of bars, shops and other gathering places until 19 April, but left open certain essentials, such as grocery shops, pharmacies, (a reduced) public transport and the postal service.

The government announced a 42 billion CHF rescue package for the economy, which included money to replace lost wages for employed and self-employed people, short-term loans to businesses, delay for payments to the government, and support for cultural and sport organizations.

Cases Soar but Swiss Reject Lockdown as COVID Law Vote Looms

Shortly thereafter, on 20 March, all gatherings of more than five people in public spaces were banned.

Additionally, the government gradually imposed restrictions on border crossings and announced economic support measures worth 40 billion Swiss francs.

The measures were gradually removed in several phases beginning in late April until June 2020 but new measures were imposed in October as cases surged again.

On 20 March, the government announced that no complete lockdown would be implemented, but all events or meetings over five people were prohibited.

Economic activities would continue including construction.

Those measures were prolonged until 26 April 2020.

Switzerland's lockdown has sharply reduced the cases of COVID-19 - EPFL

On 16 April, Switzerland announced that the country would ease restrictions in a three-step, gradual way.

The first step began on 27 April, for those who work in close contact with others, but not in large numbers.

Surgeons, dentists, day care workers, hairdressers, massage and beauty salons could be opened with safety procedures applied.

DIY stores, garden centres, florists and food shops that also sell other goods could also be opened.

The second step was to begin on 11 May, assuming implementation of the first step without problems, at which time other shops and schools could be opened.

The third step would begin on 8 June with the easing of restrictions on vocational schools, universities, museums, zoos and libraries.

This is how Switzerland is relaxing its coronavirus lockdown | World  Economic Forum

From 25 June onwards, the Government pays for the costs of an eventual COVID test, if a patient has enough symptoms of COVID-19.

In July and August, masks became mandatory, first on public transport and then also in airplanes.

Government to pay for Covid tests to contain pandemic - SWI swissinfo.ch

In October 2020, following a rapid increase in corona cases, the authorities imposed stricter public health measures.

These include limiting public gatherings to 15 people, prioritising home office and making masks mandatory in all enclosed public spaces.

On 19 December 2020, the Swiss Agency for Therapeutic Products (Swissmedic) approved the Pfizer-BioNTech COVID-19 vaccine (Comirnaty) for regular use, two months after receiving the application, although it was expected to give a decision later than other European countries, as Swiss laws do not allow emergency approvals.

After the application was processed with high priority using all the available resources, the head of Swissmedic stated that the vaccine fully complied with the requirements of safety, efficacy and quality.

This constituted the first authorization by a stringent regulatory authority under a standard procedure for any COVID-19 vaccine.

Three days later, 107 000 vaccine shots were received by the army to be dispatched in the cantons.

On 23 December, 302 days after the first official case, the first patient, a 90-year-old woman from Central Switzerland, was vaccinated in a retirement home in Lucerne. 

On that day, the cantons of Lucerne, Zug, Schwyz, Nidwalden and Appenzell Innerrhoden launched the vaccination campaign, marking the beginning of mass vaccination in Switzerland and continental Europe outside Russia.

Clockwise from top: Kapellbrücke, Löwendenkmal, Old town, City walls, Traditional frescoed building
Above: Images of Lucerne (Luzern)

In January 2021, after a month of corona cases remaining at a high level, additional measures were passed that required the closure of all restaurants, sport and cultural venues as well as shops that do not sell products for daily use.

Most cantons followed by 4 January 2021 and all the rest of them by 11 January.

By that day, about 0.5% of the population received the Pfizer–BioNTech COVID-19 vaccine.

Covid19 vaccine biontech pfizer 3.jpg

On 12 January 2021, Swissmedic approved the second COVID-19 vaccine: the mRNA-1273 made by Moderna.

The Lonza Group where the vaccine is produced was visited by Federal Councilor Alain Berset the previous day.

Above: Alain Berset

Up to 800,000 vaccines per day are expected to be produced there.

A year after the first COVID-19 outbreak, the number of vaccinated people largely outnumbered the official cases.

Moderna COVID-19 vaccine.jpg

On 7 March, about 10% of the population received at leat one shot of the two approved vaccines (Pfizer and Moderna) and about 3% were fully vaccinated.

A third vaccine, the Oxford/AstraZeneca vaccine (AZD1222), which comprised 5.3 million of the doses ordered by Swiss authorities, was rejected for approval by the Swiss medical authority, SwissMedic, citing insufficient data.

Oxford AstraZeneca COVID-19 vaccine AZD1222 - 4.jpg

In March 2021, the Swiss Federal Health Ministry (BAG) reported that approved vaccine deliveries have increased steadily every month.

Switzerland received 1.1 million doses of the Moderna and Pfizer vaccines in January and February 2021, and another 1 million vaccine doses in March, exceeding initial expectations.

As of 16 March 2021, 843,974 people had taken the first dose of corona virus vaccine.

The country planned to have its 8.6 million residents vaccinated by summer 2021.

Switzerland | Commonwealth Fund

Above: Federal Office of Public Health, Liebefeld, Switzerland

In April 2021, there were reports that vaccine administration and production efforts at the Lonza Group plant in Visp had been hampered due to overly stringent immigration rules in Switzerland, reducing the influx of qualified biotech and healthcare workers, particularly with regard to non-EU/EFTA states.

Lonza.svg

The Valais National Council urged the Swiss federal authorities to create exemptions from the current immigration rules for essential biotech industries.

Flag of Valais
Above: Flag of Valais

On 1 August 2021, Switzerland achieved a vaccination rate of 52%. 

Which Swiss cantons have the highest and lowest vaccination rate — and why?
Above: Swiss vaccination rate – The darker the region, the more have been vaccinated.

From 13 September 2021, access to indoor public spaces like restaurants, bars, museums or fitness centres is only permitted with a valid Covid certificate.

This measure will expire by the end of January 2022.

Swiss order COVID-19 booster doses, mull more restrictions | Reuters

By 5 November 2021, 11,178,041 doses of COVID-19 vaccine had been administered.

Swiss Covid vaccination rate takes off - SWI swissinfo.ch

The COVID-19 virus has an especially high mortality rate for the elderly aged 65 and over.

This was especially concerning for Switzerland which had an elderly population of 18.3% in 2018, above the average for OECD countries.

OECD logo new.svg
Above: Logo for the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD)

Only two days after my arrival in Switzerland, I am once again required to be tested for COVID-19 – at least until I receive my 3rd dose of vaccine two days from now.

It is not without irony that I note that the testing centre in Kreuzlingen is in the same building where I once went to the gym.

Again the question is:

Am I fit?

Another stick up the nose and half an hour later it is confirmed that I am still virus free.

If only the entire planet could say this…..

Corona-Testcenter | AndreasKlinik Cham Zug

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Saturday 1 January 2022

New Year's Eve Celebration | Big Cedar Lodge

Less than a week has passed since I vacated my apartment in Eskişehir to travel west to Istanbul, Zürich and Landschlacht, and I have already been tested for the corona virus twice and today I received my 3rd dose of a vaccine.

No photo description available.
Above: Your humble blogger in Florence (Firenz) a lifetime ago

The news of the world in respect to COVID-19 is not as optimistic.

Though Swissmedic has approved the use of the monoclonal antibody cocktail Ronapreve, developed by Roche and Regeneron to treat severe COVID-19 patients, and the use of the Janssen COVID-19 vaccine as a booster dose for people over the age of 18, I find myself depressed by news from my home and native land of Canada.

Regeneron logo.svg

Janssen COVID-19 vaccine (2021) F (cropped) 2.jpg

Canada has surpassed two million confirmed COVID-19 cases since the start of the pandemic, according to CTVNews.ca’s COVID-19 tracker.

Official tallies of case numbers were delayed over the weekend due to some provinces and territories not inputting data because of the holidays.

CTV News 2019.svg

However, Monday saw Ontario report more than 9,400 cases for the fourth day in a row and Québec report more than 8,000, pushing the country over the two million mark.

As of Monday afternoon, 27 December, there were 159,431 active COVID-19 cases, 1,836,475 recovered and 30,172 deaths.

Widely reported testing delays during the holiday season, long lines and laboratory backlogs also mean the true scope of where Canada stands with COVID-19 cases may take a while to determine.

The arrival of the highly transmissible Omicron variant has seen case numbers skyrocket across the country, leading to restrictions and cancellations.

A vertical triband design (red, white, red) with a red maple leaf in the center.
Above: Flag of Canada

On Boxing Day, 26 December, Québec capped private gatherings at six people or two household bubbles.

Flag of Quebec
Above: Flag of Québec

Athletes testing positive for COVID-19 saw Curling Canada cancel the Olympic mixed doubles Sunday.

Curling Canada.svg

Several provinces have requested residents only get tested if they are displaying symptoms.

Quebec’s seven-day average now stands at 8,020 cases with 1,469 recorded active outbreaks, and Ontario’s rolling seven-day average has surged to 7,550 up from 2,863 last week.

A map of Canada showing its 10 provinces and 3 territories

And the number of new COVID cases are rising around the world:

  • Iceland: 672 new cases (27 December)

Flag of Iceland
Above: Flag of Iceland

  • Cyprus: 2,241 new cases (28 December)

Flag of Cyprus
Above: Flag of Cyprus

  • France: 179,807 new cases (28 December)

Emblem of France
Above: Emblem of France

  • Greece: 21,657 new cases (28 December)

Flag of Greece
Above: Flag of Greece

  • Italy: 78,313 new cases (28 December)

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Above: Flag of Italy

  • Portugal: 17,172 new cases (28 December)

Flag of Portugal
Above: Flag of Portugal

  • UK: 138,831 new cases (28 December)

Coat of arms of United Kingdom
Above: Coat of arms of the United Kingdom

  • Ontario: 8,825 new cases (28 December)

A red flag with a large Union Jack in the upper left corner and a shield in the centre-right
Above: Flag of Ontario

The grim milestone, as reported by the California Department of Public Health, wasn’t entirely unexpected in a state with 40 million residents poised for a surge in new infections amid holiday parties and family gatherings forced indoors by a series of winter storms.

The first corona virus case in California was confirmed 25 January 2020.

It took 292 days to get to 1 million infections on 11 November of that year, and 44 days from then to top 2 million.

California’s caseload is also ahead of other large states.

Texas had more than 4.4 million and Florida topped 3.9 million as of Sunday.

California has recorded more than 75,500 deaths related to COVID-19.

The state has fared far better than many other states that are dealing with a coronavirus surge, with areas in the Midwest and Northeast seeing the biggest jump in cases and hospitalizations amid frigid temperatures that have kept people indoors.

The US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention lists California as a place with “high” transmission of the virus, along with nearly everywhere else in the country.

But in the last week California averaged 16.4 new cases per 100,000 people, less than a third of the national rate.

Meanwhile, corona virus related hospitalizations have been rising slowly in California, up about 12% in the last 7 days to 4,401.

That’s less than half as many as during the late summer peak and one-fifth of a year ago, before vaccines were widely available.

Official seal of California

On Tuesday, San Francisco announced it was canceling its New Year’s Eve fireworks show because of the rising caseload, while Contra Costa County in the Bay Area announced that it would require masks to be worn in all public indoor places as of Wednesday.

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Above: The Golden Gate Bridge

Previously, some vaccinated people had been allowed to remove them.

The timeline of COVID-19 in America often comes back to California.

Coat of arms of the United States
Above: Coat of arms of the United States of America

It had some of the earliest known cases among travellers from China, where the outbreak began.

The 6 February 2020, death of a San Jose woman was the first known corona virus fatality in the US.

That same month, California recorded the first US case not related to travel and the first infection spread within the community.

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Above: San Jose, California

On 19 March 2020, Governor Gavin Newsom issued the nation’s first statewide stay-at-home order, shuttering businesses and schools to try to prevent hospital overcrowding.

Gavin Newsom by Gage Skidmore.jpg
Above: California Governor Gavin Newsom

It is unclear how many of the newly reported cases were attributed to the Omicron corona virus variant.

Much about Omicron remains unknown, including whether it causes more or less severe illness.

Scientists say Omicron spreads even easier than other corona virus strains, including Delta, and it is expected to become dominant in the US by early 2022.

Early studies suggest the vaccinated will need a booster shot for the best chance at preventing an omicron infection but even without the extra dose, vaccination still should offer strong protection against severe illness and death.

America's Omicron Wave Now Looks More Severe Than Europe's

Those who sign up after Friday will have their coverage start on 1 February 2022.

Map of California State, USA - Nations Online Project

  • USA: 512,553 new cases (28 December)
  • France: 208,099 new cases (29 December)
  • Greece: 28,828 new cases (29 December)
  • Italy: 98,030 new cases (29 December)
  • Malta: 1,337 new cases (29 December)

Flag of Malta
Above: Flag of Malta

The autonomous communities have notified this Wednesday to the Spanish Ministry of Health 100,760 new cases of COVID-19, 59,867 of them diagnosed in the last 24 hours.

These figures are higher than those of the same day last week, when 60,041 positives were reported, which shows the upward trend in the evolution of the pandemic.

The total number of infections in Spain already rises to 6,133,057 since the beginning of the pandemic, according to official statistics. 

The cumulative incidence in the last 14 days per 100,000 inhabitants stands at 1,508.39, compared to 1,360.62 yesterday.

In the past two weeks, a total of 715,741 positives have been recorded.

España supera los 100.000 casos de covid diarios: la cifra más alta de la pandemia

Wednesday’s report added 78 new deaths, compared with 50 last Wednesday.

Up to 89,331 people with a positive diagnostic test have died since the virus arrived in Spain, according to data collected by the Ministry.

In the last week, 271 people have died with a confirmed positive COVID-19 diagnosis in Spain.

The positivity rate in diagnostic tests also remains high, up to 20.3%, on a day in which 82 deaths from the corona virus have been reported.

And, according to the report of the Ministry of Health, infections continue to skyrocket, but the hospital pressure is contained, despite the fact that in the ICUs the occupation is 19.1% (4 tenths more than yesterday) and in the plant of 8.5% (half a point more).

The ICUs of Catalonia are the ones with the highest occupancy and almost double the national average (37.5%), followed by those of the Basque Country (26.2%), the Valencian Community (25.6%) and Castilla y León (24.8%).

As for the transmission of the virus, Madrid is the community with the highest number of new positives in the last 24 hours, with 16,612, while the Basque Country is in second place, with 7,179.

In terms of incidence, Navarre occupies the first place, reaching 3,236.5 cases per 100,000 inhabitants in 14 days.

The autonomous communities have carried out 2,386,657 diagnostic tests, of which 1,325,336 have been PCR and 1,061,321 antigen tests, with an overall rate per 100,000 inhabitants of 5,075.16.

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Above: COVID-19 cases in Spain per 100 000 inhabitants, as of 7 December 2021

Likewise, the Minister of Health, Carolina Darias, has requested that the positives for self-diagnosis tests in all communities be notified to the national surveillance system to have an accurate accounting of the evolution of the pandemic.

On Wednesday at the press conference after the meeting of the Interterritorial Health Council, it was announced that the members of the Public Health Commission have been placed to continue working on this matter, “especially hand in hand with the presentation of alerts” and will meet again next week.

It is clear that we need the positives to be communicated to the national system“, said Darias, who acknowledged that there is currently a situation of bottleneck in communications, especially in some primary care centers.

Therefore, the head of Health has ensured that her department works with the communities so that this notification is possible and the accounting of the cases can be kept.

Carolina Darias becomes Spain's new Health Minister - Spain in English
Above: Carolina Darias

In Madrid, the general director of Public Health of the Community, Elena Andradas, indicated on Tuesday that the positive self-diagnostic tests that citizens perform and that communicate to the number of covid information are counted in the statistics of the region, but they are not dumped in the national surveillance system of the Ministry of Health.

File:Bandera de España.svg
Above: Flag of Spain

  • UK: 183,037 new cases (29 December)
  • Australia: 18,243 new cases (29 December)
  • Zambia: 5,255 new cases (29 December)

Flag of Zambia
Above: Flag of Zambia

The Ministry of Health reported on Wednesday 42,032 cases of the corona virus in the last 24 hours in Argentina, a record number since the pandemic began in March last year. 

In addition, 26 deaths were reported, bringing the total number of deaths officially registered nationwide to 117,111 and 5,556,239 infected since the beginning of the pandemic, respectively.

The curve of infections continues to grow exponentially since a couple of weeks ago. 

Such is the increase that Wednesday’s figure surpassed the record of 41,080 cases that was set on 27 May 2021. 

Meanwhile, on Monday 20,263 cases were reported, while on Tuesday there were 33,902 in 24 hours.

Flag of Argentina
Above: Flag of Argentina

Regarding the third wave, the Minister of Health, Carla Vizzotti, admitted that:

We can say that Argentina avoided a wave, that is an achievement of the whole country, and at this moment we are going through the third wave”. 

In the same vein, the official differentiated the situation in Argentina with that of other regions of the world that “are already going through the fourth wave like the United States and many countries in Europe. 

Most regions are transiting their fourth wave and South America is starting its third wave.

The Health portfolio indicated that there are 977 inmates with the corona virus in intensive care units, with a percentage of adult bed occupancy in the public and private sector, for all pathologies, of 34.9% in the country and 36.3% in the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Area.

Vizzotti also announced on Wednesday a reduction of the days of isolation to be fulfilled by people infected with coronavirus and close contacts who have the complete vaccination scheme, in a measure that will begin to take effect from this Thursday and that was agreed with all the provinces within the scope of the Federal Health Council (Cofesa).

The Minister said in a press conference held at the Government House that she agreed with her provincial peers to reduce from ten to five days the isolation for close contacts of asymptomatic positive cases, provided they have the complete vaccination scheme, while those who are positive with mild symptoms must be protected for seven days.

The official explained that for those people who are asymptomatic close contacts without vaccination or with the incomplete schedule, the isolation will be reduced to 7 days with a negative PCR test or, if the test is not available, the current ten days will be maintained, as well as for those who are positive and have not been vaccinated.

Carla Vizzotti - Wikipedia
Above: Carla Vizzotti

The positivity rate of the tests continues to rise, with 30.98%, well above the 10% set as a reference by the World Health Organization (WHO).

Of the total infected, 5,556,239 were discharged and 155,218 are confirmed active cases.

According to the Public Vaccination Monitor, the total number of inoculated amounts to 75,644,660, of which 38,036,381 received one dose, 32,587,409 both, 2,436,423 an additional one and 2,584,447 a booster, while the vaccines distributed to the jurisdictions reach 93,954,966.

The Ministry also indicated that 135,645 tests were carried out in the last 24 hours and since the beginning of the outbreak there have been 27,790,142 diagnostic tests for this disease.

The report stated that 16 men died.

On Wednesday, 15,135 cases were registered in the province of Buenos Aires.

Left to right, from top to bottom. I row: Casa Rosada Presidential Palace and Microcentro. II row: Kavanagh Building, Palace of National Congress, and Obelisco. III row: La Boca and Puerto Madero.
Above: Images of Buenos Aires, Argentina

  • Greece: 35,580 new cases (30 December)
  • Italy: 126,888 new cases (30 December)
  • Ireland: 20,554 new cases (30 December)
  • Portugal: 28,659 new cases (30 December)

Flag of Ireland
Above: Flag of the Republic of Ireland

Russia has overtaken Brazil to have the world’s second-highest death toll from the COVID-19 pandemic, behind the United States, data from Russia’s state statistics service and Reuters calculations showed on Thursday.

A medical specialist wearing protective gear sits in an ambulance parked at the Pokrovskaya hospital amid the outbreak of the coronavirus disease (COVID-19) in Saint Petersburg, Russia June 24, 2021.  REUTERS/Anton Vaganov

The statistics service, Rosstat, said 87,527 people had died from coronavirus-related causes in November, making it the deadliest month in Russia since the start of the pandemic.

Russian Federal State Statistics Service Emblem.svg
Above: Emblem of the Russian Federal State Statistics Service (Rosstat)

Russia’s overall pandemic death toll reached 658,634, according to Reuters calculations based on Rosstat figures up to the end of November and data from the coronavirus task force for December, overtaking Brazil which has recorded 618,800 deaths.

The death toll in the United States is higher, at 825,663 people, according to a Reuters tally, but its population is more than twice as big as Russia’s.

Reuters calculations also showed Russia recorded more than 835,000 excess deaths since the beginning of the outbreak in April 2020 to the end of November, compared to average mortality in 2015-2019.

Reuters Logo.svg

Some epidemiologists say that calculating excess deaths is the best way to assess the true impact of a pandemic.

So far, Russia’s death toll has not been affected by the Omicron variant and was mostly caused by a surge of infections in October and November, which health authorities blamed on the Delta variant and a slow vaccination campaign.

On Thursday, Russian authorities ordered hospitals to get prepared for a possible surge in COVID-19 cases.

Coat of arms of Russia
Above: Coat of arms of Russia

  • UK: 189,213 new cases (30 December)

Logo of the NHS used in England
Above: Logo of the National Health Service, England

Québec is bringing back its controversial overnight curfew beginning Friday at 10 p.m., which is New Year’s Eve, and continuing to 5 a.m. the next day.

Québec Premier François Legault made the announcement Thursday amid increasing hospitalizations and an exponential growth in COVID-19 cases driven by the Omicron variant.

Also beginning on Friday, private gatherings in homes will be prohibited.

Only people who live alone or need caregivers will be allowed to join another family bubble.

Dining rooms at restaurants will be closed but take-out and delivery options will be allowed to continue.

The province reported a record-breaking 14,188 infections and an increase of 135 pandemic-related hospitalizations for a total of 939 patients, including 138 in intensive care.

Legault said the number of cases to be published Friday is above 16,000.

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Above: Québec Premier François Legault

Earlier in the day, Québec’s Institute for Excellence in Health and Social Services (INESSS) released its modelling predictions which show an already dire situation getting even worse.

The more optimistic scenario, based on average growth rates, shows that COVID-19 hospitalizations could reach 1,600 in the next three weeks, while those for intensive care patients could jump to 300.

The second scenario projects up to 2,100 COVID-19 patients in regular beds and 375 in intensive care, which is higher than what the province saw in previous waves of the pandemic.

The Institute, however, said the intensification of vaccination efforts, coupled with newly-implemented or upcoming public health measures, could slow the predicted increase in hospitalizations.

Legault pointed to INESSS’ report and modelling from the public health institute as reasons to bring in more measures.

Our experts tell us there is a risk that we won’t be able to treat everyone, all those who need it in the coming weeks,” he said.

I know we’re all tired but it’s my responsibility to protect all ourselves from this. This is why I’m announcing new restrictions as of tomorrow.

Sylvie Bouchard | Annual Market Access Summit

Essential workers, people seeking medical care, or people travelling for humanitarian reasons will be exempt from curfew.

Anyone outside their home during curfew hours could be asked to justify their movements.

Fines for breaking curfew range between $1,000 and $6,000.

The province first imposed a curfew during the pandemic on 9 January 2021, and only lifted the health order on 28 May.

Québec is the only province in Canada to have imposed a curfew during the pandemic.

Legault admitted bringing it back was an extreme move but a necessary one under the circumstances.

He promised it would be the first restriction to be lifted once the situation in hospitals stabilizes.

We’re not doing this for fun, but out of necessity to save our network and save lives,” Legault said.

Quebec Government Faces Backlash Over New Year's Eve Curfew - The New York  Times

  • France: 232,200 new cases (31 December)
  • Cyprus: 5,048 new cases (31 December)
  • Greece: 40,560 new cases (31 December)
  • Italy: 144,243 new cases (31 December)
  • Florida: 75,900 new cases (31 December)
  • New York: 85,476 new cases (31 December)
  • England: 162,572 new cases (1 January)

Flag of New York
Above: Flag of New York State

France became the 6th country in the world to report more than 10 million COVID-19 infections since the outbreak of the pandemic, according to official data published on Saturday.

French health authorities reported 219,126 new confirmed cases in a 24-hour period, the 4th day in a row that the country has recorded more than 200,000 cases.

France joined the United States, India, Brazil, Britain and Russia in having had more than 10 million cases.

Obverse
Above: Great Seal of France

Saturday’s figure was the 2nd highest after the 232,200 record on Friday when French President Emmanuel Macron warned the next few weeks would be difficult.

In his New Year’s Eve address, Macron did not mention a need for more restrictive health measures than those already announced, adding that the government should refrain from further limiting individual freedoms.

But the government said earlier on Saturday that from Monday wearing masks in public spaces would be mandatory for children as young as 6 versus 11 before.

Emmanuel Macron (cropped).jpg
Above: French President Emmanuel Macron

And some big cities, including Paris and Lyon, have re-imposed wearing of masks in the street for everyone.

The seven-day moving average of new cases in France, which smoothes out daily reporting irregularities, rose to an all-time high of 157,651 – jumping almost five-fold in a month.

The number of people hospitalised for COVID-19 has increased by 96 over 24 hours, standing at a more than seven-month peak of 18,811.

But that figure is still almost half the record 33,497 reached in November 2020.

The COVID-19 death toll increased by 110 over 24 hours to 123,851, the 12th highest globally.

The seven-day moving average of new daily deaths has reached 186, a high since 14 May.

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Above: Paris, France

  • Ireland: 23,281 new cases (1 January)

Coat of arms of Ireland
Above: Coat of arms of Ireland

Europe has surpassed 100 million cases of the corona virus since the pandemic began nearly two years ago, according to data from the Johns Hopkins Corona Virus Resource Center.

Worldwide, nearly 290 million cases have been recorded.

COVID-19 Map FAQ - Johns Hopkins Coronavirus Resource Center

Nearly 5 million of Europe’s cases were reported in the last seven days, with 17 of the 52 countries or territories that make up Europe setting single-day new case records thanks to the highly contagious omicron variant, Agence France-Presse (AFP) reported Saturday.

Agence France-Presse Logo.svg

More than 1 million of those cases were reported in France, which has joined the US, India, Brazil, Britain and Russia to become the 6th country to confirm more than 10 million cases since the pandemic began, Reuters reported.

Above: In Noisy le Grand in the suburbs of Paris, strolling along the River Marne has been forbidden “until further notice”.

India’s health ministry reported 22,775 new cases of the corona virus Saturday, saying the new cases bring the country’s Omicron variant count to 1,431.

Public health officials, however, have warned that the country’s COVID-19 tallies are likely undercounted.

Emblem of India.svg
Above: Emblem of India

The Sydney Morning Herald reported Saturday that paramedics in the Australian state of New South Wales had a “record breaking” level of calls overnight, resulting in its busiest night in 126 years, as the Omicron variant of the corona virus sweeps across the globe.

New South Wales Ambulance Inspector Kay Armstrong told the newspaper the telephone calls included, “the usual business of New Year’s Eve—alcohol-related cases, accidents, obviously mischief—and then we had COVID on top of that.”

The Herald reported paramedics also received “time-wasting calls from people wanting COVID-19 test results”.

Flag of New South Wales
Above: Flag of New South Wales

Matthew Taylor, chief executive of Britain’s NHS Confederation, said the Omicron variant will “test the limits of finite NHS [National Health Service] capacity even more than a typical winter.

Taylor also predicted that hospitals will be forced to make “difficult choices” because of the variant.

NHS Identity Guidelines | NHS logo

CNN reports that more than 30 colleges and universities have changed the starting date of their spring semesters as the Omicron variant crosses the United States.

CNN.svg
Above: Logo of the Cable News Network (CNN)

The Johns Hopkins Corona Virus Resource Center on Saturday reported more than 289 million global COVID-19 cases since the pandemic began.

The Center said 9.1 billion vaccinations have been administered.

See the latest data in your region - Johns Hopkins Coronavirus Resource  Center

Happy New Year?

Happy New Year 2022 text design with cartoon style with tigers. The symbol  of the year according to the Chinese calendar. Design brochure, template,  postcard, banner. Vector illustration. 3789627 Vector Art at Vecteezy

I receive my 3rd dose of vaccine today in Weinfelden.

The staff are friendly and efficient.

The process is quick and painless.

Das Covid-19-Impfzentrum in Weinfelden hat seinen Betrieb aufgenommen |  Hirslanden
Above: Waiting room, Vaccination centre, Weinfelden, Switzerland

I get a message from my cousin Steve, back in Lachute, Québec, Canada, to call him.

He has been organizing our last high school reunion (Class of 1982) set for 13 August 2022.

As one of his oldest friends, he seeks my opinion.

Should he postpone the reunion until 2023?

I tell him to wait until 1 March before making this decision.

But truth be told, I find it hard to maintain my optimism.

No photo description available.
Above: Steve, Nick, Mark and your humble blogger, Lachute, Québec, Canada, 3 January 2020 – Covid arrived in Canada 22 days later.

COVID-19 has changed normal routines around the world.

During the beginning of the pandemic, everyone wanted to learn more about the virus.

After four months, with death tolls rising and isolation not being over anytime soon, psychological fatigue has set in.

There is fatigue from pandemic news throughout the world.

This fatigue persists despite knowing someone with COVID-19.

Either we simply cannot care any more or we cannot hear any more bad news.

scientist at work in lab

Hi.

I feel badly even writing this, but all of this conversation about COVID-19 is depressing me.

And I mean that clinically…

I have major depressive disorder, and things are hard enough already.

This pandemic is making me feel so much worse, and I just need to tune it out for a while — but that seems so…

Insensitive?

Am I wrong for just needing to ignore it for a while?

Pfizer pill

Here’s a fun fact for you:

Dozens of people are asking more or less the exact same question.

So if this makes you a bad person?

There are a lot of bad people out there right now.

Let’s address the more basic part of your question first:

Are you a bad person for needing to unplug for a while?

Not at all. 

Late-shift medical staff donning PPE on the Covid side of the emergency department of St Vincent’s University Hospital, Dublin. Photograph: Alan Betson


When we live with any kind of mental health condition, it’s very important to set boundaries around social media, the news cycle, and the conversations we can and can’t have at any given time. 

This becomes especially important when something traumatic is happening on a global scale.

A diner in San Diego on Monday. Americans are simply exhausted by the emotional pandemic roller coaster and confused by mixed messages from experts and leaders about appropriate coronavirus precautions.

I think social media has created a kind of pressure where people feel that if they unplug from what’s happening in the world, it makes them complacent or selfish.

I don’t believe that taking a step back is complacency, though.

I believe that having strong boundaries around issues that activate us emotionally is what allows us to show up for ourselves and others in healthier, more impactful ways.

I also want to just validate how you’re feeling.

Years into this pandemic, so many of us are burning out.

And this makes a lot of sense!

Many of us are experiencing some serious fatigue and dysregulation brought on by chronic, pervasive stress.

And if you’re someone living with depression?

That fatigue is likely going to feel a lot heavier.

Don’t apologize for taking care of yourself, my friend.

That’s exactly what you’re supposed to be doing right now. 

Above: E guarirai da tutte le malattie.. ed io, avrò cura di te, Giovanni Guida

As long as you’re still being mindful of your impact on others (wearing a mask, practicing physical distancing, not stockpiling toilet paper that you don’t need, not blocking traffic because you’re mad that you can’t get your hair cut or go to Olive Garden, etc.), I wouldn’t worry about it.

Olive Garden Logo.svg

And if you’re thinking:

Duh!

I have depression and there’s a pandemic! 

Of course I’m depressed!

I’d like to ask you to pump the brakes for a second and hear me out.

A coronavirus testing site in Miami. Florida is recording an average of 7,068 daily coronavirus cases, a 294 percent increase over the past two weeks.

Sure, yes, it makes a lot of sense that you’d be feeling burnt out and depressed about the state of the world.

Even so, when life gets tough — regardless of the reasons why — we deserve support to get through it.

And I’d say that when we start noticing our mental health taking a hit?

It’s always a good time to check in with a mental health professional.

Because yes, a global pandemic is scary and difficult.

 Puerto Rico has recorded a daily average of 1,098 cases — a 762 percent increase from two weeks ago.

But I can fortify myself by making sure I have all the proper support around me.

There’s a difference between grieving the state of the world and giving our mental illness a free pass to torment us.

You know what I mean? 

Stream Pixies - Where is My Mind (Acoustic Cover) by No Rest for the  Astronauts | Listen online for free on SoundCloud

One piece of great advice that I heard recently was that, rather than thinking of this as the “new normal”, we can think of it as the “new now” instead. 

So, reader, if in this “new now” you find yourself more depressed than usual?

Meet yourself where you’re at and get some extra support. 

Taking each day as it comes is the best I think any of us can do right now.

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And it sounds like today, you’re having a hard time.

So rather than writing off the significance of those feelings or trying to cope by checking out, how about we address them head-on?

Something to consider.

Reader, if taking care of yourself makes you “bad” somehow?

I hope you’re bad to the bone.

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If there were ever a time to build a blanket fort and shut out the rest of the world for a while, I’d say the time is definitely now.

How to combat pandemic fatigue in 2022? Stop doomscrolling, seek help and maintain hope

Raise your hand if you’re tired of hearing about COVID.

I get it.

On so many levels I am, too.

What makes me tired is the constant information that, seemingly, does nothing to change peoples’ minds on the severity of the issue.

Above: Protest against plans to set up designated corona virus clinics near residential areas in Hong Kong, China,15 February 2020

Wear masks.

We know.

Above: “Afectos en pandemia,” Hilda Chaulot

Stay distant.

We know.

A sign asking people to wear a mask at Windsor Castle.

No large gatherings.

We know.

No, we don’t.

friends drinking and laughing at an outdoor bar

For every person who has had COVID, some people are quick to point out:

Yeah, but…look at the number of people who have been cured.

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For every person who has died from COVID, some people are quick to say:

Yeah, but…so-and-so probably had an underlying condition.”

Above: Deceased in a refrigerated “mobile morgue” outside a hospital in Hackensack, New Jersey, April 2020

I’m tired of defending the simple idea that deaths are preventable.

Why?

Because I honestly feel that most of these stories do not make a difference.

Above: Gravediggers wearing protection against contamination bury the body of a man suspected of having died of COVID-19 in the cemetery of Vila Alpina, east side of Sao Paulo, Brazil, April 2020.

My hope is that we realize that COVID is not just a danger for the elderly or those with pre-existing conditions.

This is a virus that is impacting countless people and families – neighbors, loved ones – more than we can truly comprehend.

Winter is Florida’s high season, drawing part-time residents and throngs of visitors.

More than anything, my hope is we will reignite our passion and desire for being proactive, for wearing masks, for staying distant, for staying away from large gatherings.

Be decent.

Be good.

It might not be your safety you’re concerned for.

Maybe you’ll be fine, untouched by COVID-19 or any of its symptoms.

I certainly wish for that to be the case.

Some people, though, have not been that lucky.

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I have, so far, been lucky.

I have had colds and headaches and backaches, but none that have proven to be symptoms of a greater consequence.

Certainly, I have known those who have been afflicted by the virus, though, happily, I have not known anyone personally who has died from it.

Am I tired of the pandemic?

Most definitely.

Travelers in Boston Logan International Airport on Tuesday. Many people said they intended to keep their holiday travel plans, regardless of the news about Omicron.

The COVID-19 pandemic may have brought many changes to how you live your life, and with it, at times, uncertainty, altered daily routines, financial pressures and social isolation.

You may worry about getting sick, how long the pandemic will last, whether your job will be affected and what the future will bring.

Information overload, rumors and misinformation can make your life feel out of control and make it unclear what to do.

allegorical pencil illustration about the danger of COVID-19
Above: Illustration of Plague and Death encircling the Earth, Spencer Alexander McDaniel

During the COVID-19 pandemic, you may experience stress, anxiety, fear, sadness and loneliness.

And mental health disorders, including anxiety and depression, can worsen.

Surveys show a major increase in the number of adults who report symptoms of stress, anxiety, depression and insomnia during the pandemic, compared with surveys before the pandemic.

Some people have increased their use of alcohol or drugs, thinking that can help them cope with their fears about the pandemic.

In reality, using these substances can worsen anxiety and depression.

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People with substance use disorders, notably those addicted to tobacco or opioids, are likely to have worse outcomes if they get COVID-19.

That’s because these addictions can harm lung function and weaken the immune system, causing chronic conditions such as heart disease and lung disease, which increase the risk of serious complications from COVID-19.

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For all of these reasons, it’s important to learn self-care strategies and get the care you need to help you cope.

Self-care strategies are good for your mental and physical health and can help you take charge of your life.

Take care of your body and your mind and connect with others to benefit your mental health.

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Take care of your body

Be mindful about your physical health:

  • Get enough sleep. Go to bed and get up at the same times each day. Stick close to your typical sleep-wake schedule, even if you’re staying at home.

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  • Participate in regular physical activity. Regular physical activity and exercise can help reduce anxiety and improve mood. Find an activity that includes movement, such as dance or exercise apps. Get outside, such as a nature trail or your own backyard.

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  • Eat healthy. Choose a well-balanced diet. Avoid loading up on junk food and refined sugar. Limit caffeine as it can aggravate stress, anxiety and sleep problems.

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  • Avoid tobacco, alcohol and drugs. If you smoke tobacco or if you vape, you’re already at higher risk of lung disease. Because COVID-19 affects the lungs, your risk increases even more. Using alcohol to try to cope can make matters worse and reduce your coping skills. Avoid taking drugs to cope, unless your doctor prescribed medications for you.

Hangover (Taio Cruz song) - Wikipedia

  • Limit screen time. Turn off electronic devices for some time each day, including 30 to 60 minutes before bedtime. Make a conscious effort to spend less time in front of a screen — television, tablet, computer and phone.

Milow – Ayo Technology (2009, CD) - Discogs

  • Relax and recharge. Set aside time for yourself. Even a few minutes of quiet time can be refreshing and help to settle your mind and reduce anxiety. Many people benefit from practices such as deep breathing, tai chi, yoga, mindfulness or meditation. Soak in a bubble bath, listen to music, or read or listen to a book — whatever helps you relax. Select a technique that works for you and practice it regularly.

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Take care of your mind

A woman is posing while wearing a white dress and high heels. A wired microphone is wrapped up on her left leg. A black box featuring the words 'Kylie' and 'Can't Get You Out of My Head' in white is placed on the right.

Reduce stress triggers:

  • Keep your regular routine. Maintaining a regular daily schedule is important to your mental health. In addition to sticking to a regular bedtime routine, keep consistent times for meals, bathing and getting dressed, work or study schedules, and exercise. Also set aside time for activities you enjoy. This predictability can make you feel more in control.

Saga – Wind Him Up (1983, Vinyl) - Discogs

  • Limit exposure to news media. Constant news about COVID-19 from all types of media can heighten fears about the disease. Limit social media that may expose you to rumors and false information. Also limit reading, hearing or watching other news, but keep up to date on national and local recommendations. Look for reliable sources, such as the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) and the World Health Organization (WHO).

Dirty Laundry (Don Henley song) - Wikipedia

  • Stay busy. Healthy distractions can get you away from the cycle of negative thoughts that feed anxiety and depression. Enjoy hobbies that you can do at home, such as reading a book, writing in a journal, making a craft, playing games or cooking a new meal. Or identify a new project or clean out that closet you promised you’d get to. Doing something positive to manage anxiety is a healthy coping strategy.

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  • Focus on positive thoughts. Choose to focus on the positive things in your life, instead of dwelling on how bad you feel. Consider starting each day by listing things you are thankful for. Maintain a sense of hope, work to accept changes as they occur and try to keep problems in perspective.

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  • Use your moral compass or spiritual life for support. If you draw strength from a belief system, it can bring you comfort during difficult and uncertain times.

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  • Set priorities. Don’t become overwhelmed by creating a life-changing list of things to achieve while you’re home. Set reasonable goals each day and outline steps you can take to reach those goals. Give yourself credit for every step in the right direction, no matter how small. And recognize that some days will be better than others.

Doug And The Slugs – Day By Day (1985, Vinyl) - Discogs

Connect with others

Build support and strengthen relationships:

  • Make connections. If you work remotely from home or you need to isolate yourself from others for a period of time due to COVID-19, avoid social isolation. Find time each day to make virtual connections by email, texts, phone or video chat. If you’re working remotely from home, ask your co-workers how they’re doing and share coping tips. Enjoy virtual socializing and talking to those in your home.If you’re not fully vaccinated, be creative and safe when connecting with others in person, such as going for walks, chatting in the driveway and other outdoor activities, or wearing a mask for indoor activities.If you are fully vaccinated, you can more safely return to many indoor and outdoor activities you may not have been able to do because of the pandemic, such as gathering with friends and family. However, if you are in an area with a high number of new COVID-19 cases in the last week, the CDC recommends wearing a mask indoors in public or outdoors in crowded areas or in close contact with unvaccinated people. For unvaccinated people, outdoor activities that allow plenty of space between you and others pose a lower risk of spread of the COVID-19 virus than indoor activities do.

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  • Do something for others. Find purpose in helping the people around you. Helping others is an excellent way to help ourselves. For example, email, text or call to check on your friends, family members and neighbors — especially those who are older. If you know someone who can’t get out, ask if there’s something needed, such as groceries or a prescription picked up.

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  • Support a family member or friend. If a family member or friend needs to be quarantined at home or in the hospital due to COVID-19, come up with ways to stay in contact. This could be through electronic devices or the telephone or by sending a note to brighten the day, for example.

To have compassion for those who suffer is a human quality which everyone should possess, especially those who have required comfort themselves in the past and have managed to find it in others.”
― Giovanni BoccaccioThe Decameron

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Stress is a normal psychological and physical reaction to the demands of life.

Everyone reacts differently to difficult situations, and it’s normal to feel stress and worry during a crisis. But multiple challenges, such as the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic, can push you beyond your ability to cope.

Many people may have mental health concerns, such as symptoms of anxiety and depression during this time.

And feelings may change over time.

Despite your best efforts, you may find yourself feeling helpless, sad, angry, irritable, hopeless, anxious or afraid.

You may have trouble concentrating on typical tasks, changes in appetite, body aches and pains, or difficulty sleeping or you may struggle to face routine chores.

When these signs and symptoms last for several days in a row, make you miserable and cause problems in your daily life so that you find it hard to carry out normal responsibilities, it’s time to ask for help.

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Hoping mental health problems such as anxiety or depression will go away on their own can lead to worsening symptoms.

If you have concerns or if you experience worsening of mental health symptoms, ask for help when you need it, and be upfront about how you’re doing.

Nothing is so indecent that it cannot be said to another person if the proper words are used to convey it.
― Giovanni BoccaccioThe Decameron

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To get help you may want to:

  • Call or use social media to contact a close friend or loved one — even though it may be hard to talk about your feelings.
  • Contact a minister, spiritual leader or someone in your faith community.
  • Contact your employee assistance program, if your employer has one, and ask for counseling or a referral to a mental health professional.
  • Call your primary care provider or mental health professional to ask about appointment options to talk about your anxiety or depression and get advice and guidance. Some may provide the option of phone, video or online appointments.

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You can expect your current strong feelings to fade when the pandemic is over, but stress won’t disappear from your life when the health crisis of COVID-19 ends.

Continue these self-care practices to take care of your mental health and increase your ability to cope with life’s ongoing challenges.

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No, it ain’t over till it’s over.

The pandemic persists.

Let’s try and live through it.

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One hundred tales told by a group of seven young women and three young men.

They shelter in a secluded villa just outside Florence in order to escape the Black Death, which was afflicting the city.

To pass the evenings, each member of the party tells a story each night, except for one day per week for chores, and the holy days during which they do no work at all, resulting in ten nights of storytelling over the course of two weeks.

Thus, by the end of the fortnight they have told 100 stories.

Each of the ten characters is charged as King or Queen of the company for one of the ten days in turn.

This charge extends to choosing the theme of the stories for that day, and all but two days have topics assigned: examples of the power of fortune, examples of the power of human will, love tales that end tragically, love tales that end happily, clever replies that save the speaker, tricks that women play on men, tricks that people play on each other in general, examples of virtue.

Only Dioneo, who usually tells the tenth tale each day, has the right to tell a tale on any topic he wishes, due to his wit.

Recurring plots of the stories include mocking the lust and greed of the clergy; female lust and ambition on a par with male lust and ambition; tensions in Italian society between the new wealthy commercial class and noble families; and the perils and adventures of travelling merchants.

The various tales of love in The Decameron range from the erotic to the tragic.

Tales of wit, practical jokes and life lessons contribute to the mosaic. 

The Decameron by Giovanni Boccaccio (1972, UK-B Format Paperback) for sale  online | eBay

And the plague gathered strength as it was transmitted from the sick to the healthy through normal intercourse, just as fire catches on to any dry or greasy object placed too close to it.

Nor did it stop there:

Not only did the healthy incur the disease and with it the prevailing mortality by talking to or keeping company with the sick.

They had only to touch the clothing or anything else that had come into contact with or been used by the sick and the plague evidently was passed to the one who handled those things.”
― Giovanni Boccaccio, The Decameron

The Decameron - (penguin Classics) 2nd Edition By Giovanni Boccaccio  (paperback) : Target

Since the beginning of the world men have been and will be, until the end thereof, bandied about by various shifts of fortune.”
― Giovanni Boccaccio, The Decameron

The Decameron eBook by Giovanni Boccaccio | Rakuten Kobo

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook / Giovanni Boccaccio, The Decameron / Albert Camus, The Plague / Daniel Defoe, Journal of the Plague Year / “Spain exceeds 100,000 cases of COVID daily, the highest figure of the pandemic“, El Periodico, 29 December 2021 / Debora Mackenzie, Covid-19: The Pandemic that Never Should Have Happened, and How to Stop the Next One / Dr. Michael Mosley, Covid-19: What You Need to Know about the Corona Virus and the Race for the Vaccine / Annabelle Olivier, “Covid-19 – Québec brings back nightly curfew, private gatherings prohibited as cases soar“, Global News, 30 December 2021 / “Russia’s Covid-19 death toll climbs to world’s second highest“, Reuters, 30 December 2021 / Christy Samos, “Canada surpasses 2 million Covid-19 cases since start of pandemic“, CTV News, 27 December 2021

The Plague Quotes: top 163 quotes about The Plague from famous authors

Swiss Miss and the Paradise Syndrome

Eskisehir, Turkey, Sunday 15 August 2021

Many adults gave up on drawing and painting when they were told that their pictures of horses did not look enough like horses to be “right“, to be “good“, that, if anything, they resembled wonky, slinky dachshunds.

We started to feel ashamed of our efforts, so we stopped trying altogether.

We forgot the pure bliss of making art, that moment of nirvana when the whole world narrows to the tip of your pen.

This is why those who keep a journal keep it to themselves as a private place where their descriptions don’t have to be right or good or resemble anything but the world as they honestly see it.

On the Journals of Famous Writers ‹ Literary Hub

One of the many hardships of being removed and distant from the bulk of my personal belongings sitting still back in Switzerland is being separated from past journals and photographs that make up many of my memories and could still be a rich resource for ideas and inspiration for future tales.

Flag of Switzerland
Above: Flag of Switzerland

Recently another vein of creativity that is both awful and amazing and that is now denied me is Netflix, as those with VPNs in lands far removed from the nation where subscription was first purchased must now choose between having a Big Brother-proof VPN or have net-streaming service.

I have chosen the former.

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I miss my materialistic moments of the past, so what is now not seen must now be imagined, must now be invented.

Remembrance of Things Past: Vol 1, Vol 2, and Vol 3 (The Definitive French  Pleiade Edition): Marcel Proust, C. K. Scott Moncrieff, Terence Kilmartin:  Amazon.com: Books

In the course of Swiss Miss / Heidi Hoi‘s journeys her journal went missing, so extracting meanings from fragments of memory has become difficult.

I have been required to imagine, to invent, much of what Heidi saw and did and hope that my imagination and invention is somewhat acceptable to both Heidi as well as her followers.

It would not be proper, and would be extremely time-consuming and tedious, to recount for the readers all the particulars of Heidi‘s adventures prior to her nautical voyage amongst the islands and fishing villages of Halong Bay.

I cannot recall what she told me about the weather at this time, but sparks of memory seem to suggest that the weather of Thursday evening (21 March 2019) and Friday (22 March 2019) was suitable enough for the fullest possible enjoyment of the voyage that she made.

Whether as a wise woman she was accompanied by other travelling companions from her hostel in Hanoi or whether her voyage found her surrounded by others as strange a stranger as herself, I do not recall.

I can only conclude that both the voyage and the waves were merciful, that she sailed as experienced navigation and fortune directed her, and that she recalled little of Thursday evening as slumber seized her during the evening and she awoke to find herself amongst the rock wonders of the islets of Halong Bay, amid fishing villages whose days are numbered.

It is my hope that my wonky descriptions of what she may have seen bear a semblance of right and good.

Halong Bay, Vietnam, Friday 22 March 2019

Hạ Long Bay is located in northeastern Vietnam.

The bay stretches from Quang Yen town, past Halong City, Cam Pha City to the Van Don District, is bordered on the south and southeast by Lan Ha Bay, on the north by Hạlong City, and on the west by Bai Tu Long Bay.

The bay has a 120-kilometre-long (75 mi) coastline and is approximately 1,553 km2 (600 sq mi) in size with about 2,000 islets.

The area designated by UNESCO as the World Natural Heritage Site incorporates 434 km2 (168 sq mi) with 775 islets, of which the core zone is delimited by 69 points: Dau Go Island on the west, Ba Ham Lake on the south and Cong Tay Island on the east.

UNESCO logo English.svg

Most of Hạ Long Bay’s 2,000 islets are limestone.

The core of the Bay has an area of 334 km2 (129 sq mi) with a high density of 775 islets.

The limestone in this Bay has gone through 500 million years of formation in different conditions and environments.

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Above: Halong Bay, Vietnam

The evolution of the karst in this Bay has taken 20 million years under the impact of the tropical wet climate.

The geo-diversity of the environment in the area has created biodiversity, including a tropical evergreen biosystem, oceanic and sea shore biosystem.

Hạ Long Bay is home to 14 endemic floral species and 60 endemic faunal species.

As stated in my last Swiss Miss blogpost, the name Hạ Long means “descending dragon”.

According to local legend, when Vietnam had just started to develop into a country, they had to fight against invaders.

To assist the Vietnamese in defending their country, the gods sent a family of dragons as protectors.

This family of dragons began spitting out jewels and jade.

These jewels turned into the islands and islets dotting the bay, linking together to form a great wall against the invaders.

Under these magics, numerous rock mountains abruptly appeared on the sea, ahead of invaders’ ships.

The forward ships struck the rocks and each other.

After winning the battle, the dragons were interested in peaceful sightseeing of the Earth, and then decided to live in this Bay.

The place where the mother dragon descended was named Ha Long, the place where the dragon’s children attended upon their mother was called Bái Tử Long Island (Bái: attend uponTử: childrenLong: dragon), and the place where the dragon’s children wriggled their tails violently was called Bach Long Vi Island (Bạch: white-colour of the foam made when the dragon children wriggledLong: dragon, : tail), present-day Tra Co Peninsula, Mong Cai.

(Bach Long Vi Island is an offshore district of Haiphong City.

Fishing comprises the majority of economic activity in the Gulf of Tonkin, and Bạch Long Vĩ is a major nursery and harvesting area for fish eggs.

More than 50 species of commercial fish are abundant in the area.

Bach Long Vi – The island at the Homeland's front line | Tourism - Culture  | Hai Phong news
Above: Bach Long Vi Island

In Vietnamese, “Bạch Long Vĩ” means “The Tail of the White Dragon“.

Before the 20th century, the Island used to be called “Vô Thủy” which means “no water” since there was no water source on the island.

According to Li Dechao, before the 1950s, Nightingale Island is the former toponym of Bạch Long Vĩ Island.

Fushui Isle (“pearl floating on water“) is the name used among both Chinese and Vietnamese fishermen.

Bach Long Vi Island: Small But Gorgeous Island In Hai Phong
Above: Bach Long Vi Island

Bạch Long Vĩ sits 58 meters (190 ft) above sea level, and is a plateau.

There are no other significant exposed land masses within 75 km (47 mi) of the island.

Historically, before the 20th century, Bạch Long Vĩ island was not inhabited due to the lack of water resources.

Bach Long Vi island district thrives from sea
Above: Bach Long Vi Island

In 1887, a convention between China and France made the government cede the island to French Indochina.

According to this Convention, Bạch Long Vĩ Island belongs to sovereignty of Vietnam.

However, this was not an acceptable result for China.

In the contemporary published map of the People’s Republic of China and other nations, this island still remained a part of China (Goode’s World Atlas, Rand McNally, 1933).

Also, some foreign scholars regarded that this island had been China’s territory at least up to 1950.

Goode's World Atlas: John C. Hudson: Amazon.com: Books

Due to the lack of fresh water, until the end of the 19th century, Bạch Long Vĩ Island was uninhabited and the island was just a place to avoid the strong wind of fishermen at sea.

Around 1920, a freshwater well was discovered in the south of the island.

In August 1921, a resident of Giap Nam village, Co To county, Quang Yen province, made an application to be allowed to cultivate in the lowland area of Bạch Long Vĩ Island.

Since then, the French protectorate had increased surveillance over the Bạch Long Vĩ and requested that the Department of Taxation’s patrol boats departing from Co To Island must visit Bạch Long Vĩ at least once a year.

Above: Map of French Indochina, 1933

In 1937, the government of Emperor Bao Dai of Vietnam sent a squad of 12 men to form a garrison, established a village – commune (làng – xã) regime, appointed a village chief (Lý trưởng) on the island, and officially renamed the island Bach Long Vi.

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Above: Emperor Bao Dai (1913 – 1997)

Administratively, the Island was under the management of the head of Co To county, Quang Yen province.

After that, the island village consisted of three residential clusters gathered in the southern part of the Island, with about 80 houses, with a population of about 200 people.

The inhabitants of the Island made their living by breeding, farming on the island and fishing around the island.

There were about 50 fishing boats on Cat Ba Island, registered in September each year to go fishing in the southern waters of Bạch Long Vĩ, which were allowed to anchor at the island to avoid monsoons.

Most of the fish caught were transported to Cat Ba Island, a portion was sold locally and a smaller portion was sold to Hainan Island (China).

Abalone was a valuable sea product that was bought by Chinese merchant boats and sold to Guangdong (China).

However, later, there was an order that the exploited abalone could not be sold to China, but only sold in Vietnam. 

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Above: Living abalone

During World War II, the Japanese army forced the French out of Indochina and seized the island in 1945.

When World War II ended, the Chiang Kai-shek army, as a representative for the Allies, disarmed the Japanese army in North Vietnam and captured Bach Long Vi island from the Japanese army. 

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Above: Flag of the Imperial Japanese Army (1868 – 1945)

In 1949, the Chinese Communist Party won the Chinese Civil War against Chiang Kai-shek’s army.

In 1955 the People’s Republic of China drove Chiang Kai-shek’s army away and seized the island.

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Above: Chiang Kai-shek (1887 – 1935)

On 16 January 1957, China’s government transferred the island to North Vietnam.

On that day, the Prime Minister of Vietnam signed Decree Number 49 which stipulated that Bạch Long Vĩ island is a “” (village) and belongs to Haiphong City.

That year a fish farm co-operative (Hợp tác xã Nông ngư), of 93 workers, 22 hectares of land and 13 ships, was established on the island.

Dao Bach Long Vi VN - Another Look at a Past Project | EVS-Islands

On 9 December 1992, the Vietnamese government signed Decree Number 15 which stipulated that Bạch Long Vĩ island is a district belonging to Haiphong.

In the convention on the Gulf of Tonkin signed between the Vietnamese and Chinese governments, China respects Vietnamese sovereignty over the island and there is no dispute over the island.

Flag of Vietnam
Above: Flag of Vietnam

The island is home to several species of migratory birds, including storks, turtle doves, drongos and swamp hens.

Local Vietnamese authorities have programs in place to protect these birds during their migratory season.

1,490 species of plants and animals have been discovered on and surrounding the island.

Of these, there are:

  • 367 species of terrestrial plants
  • 17 species of mangroves
  • 227 species of marine phytoplankton
  • 65 species of seaweed
  • 1 species of seagrass
  • 110 species of marine zoo plankton
  • 125 benthic species
  • 94 coral species
  • 451 species of marine fish
  • Groups of birds, mammals, amphibians and reptiles, totalling 45 species.

Bạch Long Vĩ Island and the waters around the island have listed 28 species of rare, threatened and endangered species, including two species of terrestrial plants in the genus Magnolia, 11 species of jellyfish, 7 molluscan species and 8 species of vertebrate.

Marine vertebrates include rorqual (blue) whales.

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Above: Blue whale

Due to its distance from the mainland, Bạch Long Vĩ is used as a base for offshore fishing.

The marine resources in the immediate vicinity of the island are subject to overharvesting and destructive fishing practices.)

Tourism "phượt" Bach Long Vi Island, why not?
Above: Bach Long Vi Island

Ha Long Bay’s inhabitants have developed numerous tales explaining names given to various isles and caves in the Bay.

  • Dau Go Cave (“the end of wooden bars” cave):

Dau Go Cave is on Dau Go Island and is the biggest cave in the Halong area.

Dau Go is quite far from Bai Chay Tourist Wharf at around 7 km, and 3.5 km from Tuan Chau Marina.

Don’t let the distance put you off:

Dau Go Cave is one of Halong Bay’s most famous caves due to its sheer size and volume.

When French tourists first explored the cave in the 19th century they called it “Grotte des Marveilles” which means “Cave of Wonders” in English.

And a cave of wonders it truly is –

Words can’t do justice to the cave’s beauty, so you will just have to go and see for yourself!

Dau Go Cave: A Guide To The "Wooden Head" Cave
Above: Dau Go Cave

Dau Go Cave is 27 meters above sea level and visitors must climb 90 rocky steps to reach the mouth of the cave. It has three large chambers, each containing imposing displays of stalactites and stalagmites and historic graffiti dating back to the excursions of the French.

Due to the large open entrance, the cave has a humid atmosphere.

In the cave’s third chamber there is a large freshwater lake.

In 1918, the 12th Emperor of the Nguyen Dynasty in Vietnam paid a visit to Dau Go Cave and found it so inspiring that he penned a poem praising its beauty.

The poem was etched onto the left-hand side of the cave.

Dau Go Cave – The Largest Cave in Halong Bay
Above: Dau Go Cave

As for its name origins, Dau Go Cave is said to be named after wooden stakes because, during a Mongol invasion, General Tran Hung Dao used the cave to house wooden stakes from the mainland before they were transported down the Bach Dang River to use in battle to destroy the enemy’s boats.

Statue of Tran Hung Dao, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.jpg
Above: Statue of Tran Hung Dao (1228 – 1300), Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

  • Kim Quy Cave (“golden turtle” cave):

It is said that a golden turtle swam toward the Eastern Sea (the South China Sea) after returning the holy sword which had assisted King Le Thai To in the combat against Ming invaders from China.

Next, with the approval of the Sea King, the golden turtle continued to fight against monsters in this marine area.

The turtle became exhausted and died in a cave.

Consequently, the cave was named after the golden turtle.

Kim Quy Cave: A Guide to The "Golden Turtle" Cave
Above: Kim Quy Cave

  • Con Coc Islet (frog islet): is a frog-shaped isle.

According to ancient tales, in a year of severe drought, a frog directed all animals to Heaven and protested against God.

They demonstrated in favour of making rain.

As a result, God must accept the frog as his foreman.

Since then, whenever frogs grind their teeth, God has to pour water down the ground.

Con Coc Islet - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Visit Toad Islet in Halong  Bay
Above: Con Coc Islet

  • Hang Trong and Hang Trinh Nu Caves (male and virgin caves)

The tale is about a beautiful woman who had fallen in love with a fisherman who had to sail the sea not so long after their engagement.

The local lord saw this beautiful girl and captured her, but despite her resistance, the lord exiled the girl to this remote island.

After being left to starve, the girl died and turned into a statue people called Hang Trinh Nu (the virgin).

The girl’s fiancé was away at sea catching fish to earn money for their wedding, but he heard of his love’s exile and began to search for her throughout Halong Bay.

Unfortunately, his boat was destroyed by a severe storm.

He clung onto debris and drifted to the Island where his love had been languishing in her exile.

The fiancé took refuge in a cave and spotted his love in the mouth of an opposite cave.

He called to her but his shouts were carried away by the wind.

He used a rock to bang against the cliffs to attract her attention but he was too late, she had already been petrified from fear and turned to stone.

The fiancé did not know this so he continued to bang the rock until his hands bled and he eventually turned to stone too, he turned into an islet situated nearby called Hang Trong (male).

11 Interesting Facts About Halong Bay
Above: Halong Bay

Trinh Nu Cave is found east of Bo Han Island, 15 km south of Bai Chay Beach and 3 km from Sung Sot Cave.

It is considered by locals to be the heart of Halong Bay’s love story due to the romantic legend that it is associated with.

Visitors to Trinh Nu Cave will see a stone figure in the middle of the cave, looking out to the sea in hope and desperation, this is the fisherman’s daughter.

In the opposite Trong Cave, there is the stone figure of her lost lover.

Although Trinh Nu’s legend is tragic, the surrounding area is beautiful and after exploring the cave tourists can enjoy the pristine Trinh Nu beach with its clear green waters and calming scenery.

Trinh Nu Cave - HaLong Bay Caves - HaLong Bay HeritagesV'Spirit Cruises
Above: Hang Trinh Nu Cave

  • Thien Cung Cave (Paradise cave):

Although humans had explored Thien Cung Cave in the past, in more recent years the jungle had grown over the mouth of the cave and locals had long forgotten how to find it.

However, the cave was always remembered in stories told by word of mouth which were passed down through generations.

Thien Cung Cave in Halong Bay - Attractively Shaped Heaven Cave
Above: Thien Cung Cave

This cave is one of the places associated with the ancient dragon king.

It is said that Thien Cung Cave was the place where the Dragon King’s seven-day wedding took place.

To congratulate the couple, many dragons and elephants visited to dance and fly.

Thien Cung Cave: A Guide To The "Heaven Palace" Cave
Above: Thien Cung Cave

Fortunately, in 1993, desperate fishermen who had been caught in a storm happened to discover the cave while they searched for shelter.

Since then, Thien Cung Cave has remained a firm favorite with visitors.

Thien Cung Cave Halong Bay - Overview Thien Cung Cave Halong Bay
Above: Thein Cung Cave

The way up to Thien Cung Cave is via a winding pathway, surrounded by thick jungle.

The cave is a dry cave and houses a complex inner structure with high ceilings.

Visitors wandering around the cave today will find many rock formations that are said to represent the mythical guests that attended the Dragon King’s wedding.

Looking out from the mouth of the cave over the whole of Halong Bay gives visitors a truly amazing view of the islands and karsts and while the walk up to the cave is not an easy journey, it is certainly a worthwhile one.

Thien Cung cave Travel Guide - BestPrice Travel
Above: View from Thien Cung Cave

Administratively, the Bay belongs to Halong City, Cam Pha City, and is part of the Van Don District.

The Bay features thousands of limestone karsts and isles in various shapes and sizes.

Ha Long Bay is a centre of a larger zone which shares similar geological, geographical, geomorphological, climate, and cultural characteristics.

Above: Halong Bay

Many of the islands have acquired their names as a result of interpretation of their unusual shapes.

Such names include:

  • Voi Islet (elephant)

where the dragon descends to the sea | lyttelfishdotcom
Above: Voi Islet

  • Ga Choi Islet (fighting cock)

Hon Ga Choi Island, Ha Long Bay | Ticket Price | Timings | Address: TripHobo
Above: Ga Choi Islet

  • Khi Islet (swan)

Halong Bay (Ha Long Bay) - Everything you Need to Know about Halong Bay
Above: Halong Bay

  • Mai Nha Islet (roof)

Experience the raw beauty of central Vietnam's Mai Nha Island - VnExpress  International
Above: Mai Nha Island

989 of the islands have been given names.

Birds and animals including bantams, antelopes, monkeys and lizards also live on some of the islands.

Above: Bantam chickens

Hạ Long Bay is host to two ecosystems: a tropical, moist, evergreen rainforest ecosystem, and a marine and coastal ecosystem.

The Bay is home to seven endemic species: 

  • Livistona halongensis (a type of fan palm, which grows up to 10 metres (30 ft) tall, with a stem diameter of about 20 cm (8 in). The leaves measure up to 77 cm (30 in) long. It bears yellow flowers and its fruit is green.)

Livistona - Wikipedia
Above: Livistona

  • Impatiens halongensis (a perennial plant with dark green leaves and white flowers edged in yellow and sometimes tinged green and measures up to 10.5 cm / 4 inches long. Its habitat is in limestone soil.)

Wikizero - Impatiens
Above: Impatiens

  • Primulina halongensis (a perennial herb with brittle leaves that can bear up to 30 purple flowers and measures up to 26 cm /10 inches long. The fruit is reddish brown. Its habitat is in cracks and rocks near the sea to exposed scree higher up on the limestone islands.)

Primulina - Wikipedia
Above: Primulina

  • Primulina hiepii (named for the Vietnamese botanist Tien Hiep Nguyen, it grows as a perennial herb with spearhead leaves and can bear up to 14 purple flowers and measure up to 36 cm (14 in) long. Its habitat is in shaded cracks on the islands’ limestone rocks, near sea level.)

Primulina hiepii · iNaturalist NZ
Above: Primulina hieppi

  • Primulina modesta (a perennial herb, with leaves that are dark green above and pale beneath, and measure up to 3 cm (1 in) long. They bear up to 16 white flowers and measure up to 11 cm (4 in) long. It is confined to Tam Cung Cave, on an island in Ha Long Bay. Its habitat is in shaded crevices on the vertical cliffs near the mouth of the cave. It has been assessed as Critically Endangered and is confined to a small area and the population has been estimated at fewer than 50 plants.)

Aerangis modesta – Wikipédia, a enciclopédia livre
Above: Primulina modesta

  • Paraboea halongensis (a perennial shrub. Its leaves measure up to 4.3 cm / 2 inches long, and bears white flowers. Its habitat is in cracks on rocks higher up on the limestone islands.)

Genus Paraboea · iNaturalist.ca
Above: Paraboea halongensis

  • Alpinia calcicola (a ginger flowering plant with beautiful broad spearhead leaves and spiked tubular flowers. Its habitat is usually in the rainforests of Vietnam.)

Alpinia calcicola – Buy seeds at rarepalmseeds.com
Above: Alpina calcicola

Bioluminescent plankton can also be found.

Bioluminescence - Why plankton glows | Conservation | DW | 16.08.2017

The many islands that dot the bay are home to a great many other species, including (but likely not limited to):

  • 477 types of magnolias

Magnolia wieseneri.jpg

  • 12 types of brake ferns 

Pteris vittata.jpg

  • 20 types of salt marsh flora

Salt marshes for flood risk reduction: Quantifying long-term effectiveness  and life-cycle costs - ScienceDirect

  • 4 types of amphibians

Vietnam Check List · iNaturalist

  • 10 types of reptiles 

Phillip in Vietnam | Cute reptiles, Reptiles pet, Reptiles and amphibians

  • 40 types of birds

Birds of Vietnam – Lynx Edicions

  • 4 types of mammals

Launching of the Publication “Field Guide to the Large Mammals of Vietnam”  – PanNature

Common aquatic species found in the Bay include:

  • cuttlefish (muc)

Cuttlefish komodo large.jpg

  • oysters (hào)
  • clams (ngán)

  • prawns (tôm he)

  • lobsters (tôm hùm

Lobster 300.jpg

  • shrimp (tôm sắt

  • marine worms (sá sùng)

Thysanocardia nigra.jpg

  • sea snails (ốc đĩa)

Reef0666 - Flickr - NOAA Photo Library.jpg

With an increasing tourist trade, mangroves and seagrass beds have been cleared and jetties and wharves have been built for tourist boats.

Zostera.jpg

Game fishing, often near coral reefs, is threatening many endangered species of fish.

Fishing in Vietnam | i Tour Vietnam Blogs

Local government and businesses are aware of the problems and many measures have been taken to minimise the impact of tourism on the Bay environment for sustainable economic growth like introducing eco-friendly tours and introducing tight waste control on resorts.

Above: Halong Bay

Almost all these islands are as individual towers in a classic landscape with heights from 50 to 100 metres (160–330 ft), and height/width ratios of up to about six.

Above: Halong Bay

Another specific feature of Hạ Long Bay is the abundance of lakes inside the limestone islands.

For example, Dau Be Island has six enclosed lakes.

Halong Bay travel | Vietnam, Asia - Lonely Planet
Above: Halong Bay

Dau Be Island is 500 m west of Hang Trai Island, and 28 km from the Bai Chay Tourist Wharf, in an archipelago comprised of the Tra Le islands on the southeast side of Halong Bay near the seaport of Lan Ha Bay.

It has an area of 22,863 sq. m, and its highest peak reaches 139 metres.

Above: Location of Dau Be Island (red)

On the Island are many species of plants such as orchids, Benjamin figs, banyans and cycads, which blossom throughout the year.

Tips For Getting An Orchid To Bloom

Above: Orchids

Ficus benjamina - Wikipedia

Above: Benjamin fig

Big Banyan Tree at Bangalore.jpg
Above: Banyans

Cycas circinalis.jpg
Above: Cycad

It is also the home of golden-haired monkeys, birds, flying squirrels and bats.

Golden Snub-nosed Monkeys, Qinling Mountains - China.jpg
Above: Golden snub-nosed monkey

Vietnamese Giant Flying Squirrel, Night Safari - ZooChat
Above: Flying squirrel

Vietnam - Mammal Watching
Above: Bat

Under the deep blue surface of the water are the animated lives of shrimp and fish.

The steep island cliffs stand like walls to shield the island from the waves rushing from the east into the Gulf.

It is recommended that visitors spend at least three hours visiting Dau Be Island as there is much to see and do.

A Guide To Dau Be Island
Above: Dau Be Island

The top of the must-see list is, of course, the famous beauty spot Ba Ham Lake.

When speaking of the Island, it is impossible not to mention Ba Ham Lake, as it has been a world-famous spot for a long time.

Ba Ham Lake is a stunning natural occurrence made of three hidden lakes connected by a long cave.

Ba Ham Lake, Halong Bay | Halong Serenity Cruises
Above: Ba Ham Lake

Throughout the cave, there are stalactites decorating the ceilings.

These impressive rock formations, along with the strange natural landscape of this place, attract many visitors to Dau Be Island year-round.

The Lake is a system comprising three wide and round pits, linked together by a narrow and meandering tunnel.

Stalactites hang from the ceiling in a myriad of strange, coloured forms.

Ho Ba Ham Travel Guide - BestPrice Travel
Above: Ba Ham Lake

The silence is disturbed only by the sounds of the boat’s oars.

Ba Ham Lake still retains the mystical beauty, wild because there is no human impact or the existence of any construction.

Compared to other attractions on Ha Long Bay, visitors who want to discover the beauty of Ba Ham Lake can only use a Vietnamese sampan (rowboat) or a kayak.

The traveller can get inside the Lake only after the tide is down.

Sampan - Wikipedia

Above: Vietnamese sampan

Sailing through the tunnels that connect Ba Ham, visitors can almost touch the waterfalls of stalactites hanging from the four-meter tall ceilings.

The water of the Lake is deep but so clear that from the surface, fish can sometimes be seen swimming in shoals.

Ho Ba Ham Travel Guide - BestPrice Travel

Above: Ba Ham Lake

Around the lakes, visitors may spot golden langur monkeys, flying squirrels, parrots, and other animal species endemic to Halong Bay.

Golden langur.jpg
Above: Golden langur monkey

The first lake is a cave 150m long, 10m wide, the highest cave ceiling about 2 metres high.

The road to the second lake on the right alongside the entrance is about 60 metres long.

The second lake has the largest area of the three lakes, with an area of about 1,000 square meters.

From the first lake, the underground cavern is about 60 meters long.

The third lake is about 600 square metres in circumference and is surrounded by limestone mountains.

Ba Ham Lake, Lan Ha Bay - Halong Bay | Vietnam Travel

Above: Ba Ham Lake

Once upon the lake, there is complete quiet, save for songbirds praising the sky above the waters of Halong Bay.

The sound of paddles flutter the boat lightly.

Through dim foxholes, cluster of stalactites hang down in strange configurations.

Along the way, sometimes right up to the road, is a rock wall covered in deep dark shadow.

But the next stroke of a paddle sees small light streams begin to appear and a new scene unfold.

Once wide becomes narrow, here there is a barrier, there is total silence, the landscape is painted in pastel beauty that only nature can create.

Ho Ba Ham Travel Guide - BestPrice Travel
Above: Ba Ham Lake

Ba Ham Lake is one of the typical ecosystems of Ha Long Bay.

Aside from famous Ba Ham Lake, Dau Be Island is also home to a flourishing ecosystem, with wild orchids, figs and palm trees and many exotic animals.

Some lucky visitors may spot the critically endangered golden-headed langur.

The landscape is characterized by the sheer cliff faces of the limestone karsts that can be found all over the Halong Bay area.

It is a favorable environment for the animals and plants to live and develop.

On the limestone cliffs around the Lake, visitors can see hues of green tropical vegetation, rich in species.

BA HAM CAVE - HaLong Phoenix Cruiser
Above: Ba Ham Lake

Ba Ham Lake also has many different kind of birds.

Currently, Ba Ham Lake is part of the route of tourists when coming to Ha Long. 

Ba Ham Lake – Dau Be Island is one of the ideal night parking spots for Ha Long overnight cruises.

It is an ecotourism destination that many companies and tour operators offer to visitors from around the world.

Above: Ba Ham Lake

The climate of the Bay is tropical and wet, sea islands with two seasons: hot and moist summer, dry and cold winter.

The average temperature is from 15° – 25 °C (59° – 77 °F), and annual rainfall is between 2 and 2.2 metres (6.6 and 7.2 ft).

Ha Long Bay has the typical tide system with tide amplitude ranges from 3.5–4 metres or 11–13 feet.

The salinity is higher in the dry season and lower in the rainy season.

kayaking on ba ham lake
Above: Ba Ham Lake

Of the 1,969 islands in Ha Long, only approximately 40 are inhabited.

These islands range from tens to thousands of hectares in size, mainly in the East and Southeast of Hạ Long Bay.

In recent decades, thousands of villagers have been starting to settle down on the pristine islands and build new communities, such as Sa Tô Island (Hạ Long City), Thắng Lợi Island (Vân Đồn District).

Above: Halong Bay, seen from Monkey Island

Thang Loi Island is located about 40km from the Van Don district, and is made up of many small islands.

These islands are separated from the centre of the main island and have beautiful beaches, suitable for tourists staying overnight on the Island.

Thang Loi island

Above: Thang Loi

Thang Loi still has traces of pagodas, stupa and two ancient boat landing sites bearing the cultural mark of Ly, Tran, and Mac dynasties.

At the moment tourism facilities on Thang Loi Island are still very simple, but by the end of 2014, Thang Loi and other island communes already had access to national electricity, opening up new opportunities for local development.

Where there is an electricity grid, room rates are lower than before when everything related to electricity needed to be run by a generator, resulting in high prices.

The joy of travelling to the island communes is clear.

The tourism potential of Thang Loi Island is quite rich.

Thang Loi Island - Picture of Luxury Travel, Cat Ba - Tripadvisor
Above: Thang Loi Island

This place has many beautiful sites concentrated on small islands.

The islands are located away from the centre of the commune and have beautiful beaches, not any less compared to other famous beaches of Minh Chau, Quan Lan, Ngoc Vung, Co To, and they are far from the everyday noisy life of the neighborhood.

Thang Loi island
Above: Thang Loi Island and surroundings

Surrounding Tung Con Island, there is Tung Con Bay about 30 hectares wide, encircled by limestone mountains, an oasis of calm air and mild climate, which people say that the temperature here is always 5°C cooler than the rest of the Halong area, making it is the best stopping place on hot summer days.

Thang Loi has many vestiges of pagodas, suitable for spiritual tourism.

The fishing grounds here are also suitable for leisure tourism like night squid fishing.

People in the commune can catch about 10kg of squid in a few hours.

Thang Loi is the crossing point between Bai Tu Long Bay and Halong Bay, so the scenery is spectacular.

Thang Loi ISland - Photo de Ethnic Voyage, Vinh - Tripadvisor
Above: Thang Loi Island

Located about 7 km from Thang Loi is Ngoc Vung Island so travellers can visit both islands in a single trip.

Ngoc Vung Island - Picture of Ethnic Voyage, Vinh - Tripadvisor
Above: Ngoc Vung Island

The sea area managed by the commune also contains Quan Cave, a naval unit stationed here during the American War.

This cave can accommodate many people at the same time.

Hospital cave Catba island | Surrounding | Cat Ba Monkey Island Resort
Above: Quan Cave

Hạ Long Bay has experienced at least 500 million years in various geological states.

The present landscape of sea islands was formed around 8,000 years ago by sea invasion.

From about 11,000 years ago the Cat Ba – Ha Long area has much archaeological evidence connecting variations in sea levels with the development of ancient cultures, such as the Soi Nhu and Ha Long cultures.

Due to a simultaneous combination of ideal factors – such as thick, pale, grey, and strong limestone layers, which are formed by fine-grained materials, along with a hot moist climate and a slow tectonic process, Ha Long Bay has had a complete karst evolution for 20 million years.

Above: Halong Bay

There are many types of karst topography in the Bay.

Hạ Long Bay is a mature karst landscape developed during a warm, wet, tropical climate.

The sequence of stages in the evolution of a karst landscape over a period of 20 million years requires a combination of several distinct elements including a massive thickness of limestone, a hot wet climate and slow overall tectonic up lift.

Above: Halong Bay

The process of karst formation is divided into five stages, the second of which is the formation of the distinctive do line karst.

This is followed by the development of fengcong karst, which can be seen in the groups of hills on Bo Hon and Dau Be Island.

These cones with sloping sides average 100m in height with the tallest exceeding 200m.

Fenglin karst is characterised by steep separate towers.

The hundreds of rocky islands that form the beautiful and famous landscape of the Bay are the individual towers of a classic Fenglin landscape where the intervening plains have been submerged by the sea.

Most towers reach a height of between 50 and 100m with a height to width ratio of about 6.

The karst dolines were flooded by the sea, becoming the abundance of lakes that lie within the limestone islands.

For example, the aforementioned Dau Be Island at the mouth of the Bay has six enclosed lakes, including those of the Ba Ham lakes lying within its Fengcong karst.

The Bay contains examples of the landscape elements of fengcong, fenglin and karst plain.

These are not separate evolutionary stages but the result of natural non – uniform processes in the denudation of a large mass of limestone.

Marine erosion created the notches which in some places have been enlarged into caves.

The marine notch is a feature of limestone coastline but, in Ha Long Bay, it has created the mature landscape.

Above: Halong Bay

The karst landscape of Hạ Long Bay is of international significance and of fundamental importance to the science of geomorphology.

The fenglin tower karst, which is the type present in much of Ha Long Bay, is the most extreme form of limestone landscape development.

If these karst landscapes are broadly compared in terms of their height, steepness and number of their limestone towers, Ha Long Bay is probably second in the entire world only to Yangshou, in China.

Baie Along 2.jpg
Above: Halong Bay

However, Hạ Long Bay has also been invaded by the sea so that the geomorphology of its limestone islands are, at least in part, the consequence of marine erosion.

The marine invasion distinguishes Ha Long Bay and makes it unique in the world.

There are other areas of submerged karst towers which were invaded by the sea, but none is as extensive as Ha Long Bay.

Some of the most remarkable geological events in Hạ Long Bay’s history have occurred in the last 1,000 years, include the advance of the sea, the raising of the bay area, strong erosion that has formed coral, and, pure blue and heavily salted water.

This process of erosion by seawater has deeply engraved the stone, contributing to its fantastic beauty.

Present-day Ha Long Bay is the result of this long process of geological evolution that has been influenced by so many factors.

Due to all these factors, tourists visiting Ha Long Bay are not only treated to one of the natural wonders of the world, but also to a precious geological museum that has been naturally preserved in the open air for the last 300 million years.

Above: Halong Bay

Located in Hạ Long and Bai Tu Long are Soi Nhu archaeological sites (16,000 – 5000 BCE) such as Me Cung and Thien Long.

There are remains from mounds of mountain shellfish, spring shellfish, some fresh water mollusc and some rudimentary labour tools.

The main way of life of Soi Nhu’s inhabitants included catching fish and shellfish, collecting fruits and digging for bulbs and roots.

Their living environment was a coastal area unlike other Vietnamese cultures, for example, like those found in Hoa Binh and Bac Son.

Me Cung Cave (Maze cave) - Halong Bay - Asia Open Tours
Above: Me Cung Cave

Located in Hạ Long and Cat Ba Island, its Cai Beo inhabitants (5000 – 3000 BCE) developed to the level of sea exploitation.

History shows that Hạ Long Bay was the setting for local naval battles against Vietnam’s coastal neighbors.

On three occasions, in the labyrinth of channels in Bach Dang River near the islands, the Vietnamese stopped the Chinese from landing.

Battle of Bạch Đằng (938) - Wikipedia

In 1288, General Tran Hung Dao (1228 – 1300) stopped Mongol ships from sailing up the nearby Bach Dang River by placing steel-tipped wooden stakes at high tide, sinking the Mongol Kublai Khan’s fleet.

Hưng Đạo commanded the Vietnamese armies that repelled two of three major Mongol invasions in the late 13th century.

His multiple victories are considered among the greatest military feats in Vietnamese history.

File:Model of Battle in Bach Dang River in 938 AD - DSC05544.JPG -  Wikimedia Commons
Above: The Battle of Bach Dang River

Nguyễn Trãi (1380–1442) was an illustrious Vietnamese Confucian scholar, a noted poet, a skilled politician and a master strategist.

He was at times attributed with being capable of almost miraculous or mythical deeds in his designated capacity as a close friend and principal advisor of Le Loi, Vietnam’s hero-emperor, who fought to free the country from Chinese rule.

He is credited with writing the important political statements of Lê Lợi and inspiring the Vietnamese populace to support open rebellion against the Ming Dynasty rulers.

He is also the author of the “Great Proclamation upon the Pacification of the Wu“.

Nguyen Trai.jpg
Above: Portrait of Nguyen Trai

In 1406, Ming forces invaded and conquered Vietnam.

During the occupation, Ming China attempted to convert Vietnam into a Chinese province and ruthlessly quashed all rebellions.

Ming China in 1415 during the reign of the Yongle Emperor
Above: Ming China (in yellow), 1415

In 1417, Nguyễn Trãi joined a rebel leader named Lê Lợi, who was resisting the occupation from a mountainous region in Thanh Hoa Province south of Hanoi.

Nguyễn Trãi served as the chief advisor, strategist and propagandist for the movement.

Above: Nguyen Trai Monument, Québec City, Canada

The war of independence leading to the defeat of the Ming and the inauguration of the Le Dynasty which lasted from 1417 to 1427.

From 1417 until 1423, Lê Lợi conducted a classic guerilla campaign from his bases in the mountains.

Following a negotiated truce, Lê Lợi led his army to the southern prefecture of Nghe An.

From Nghệ An, Vietnamese forces won many battles and gained control over the whole part of Vietnam from Thanh Hoa southwards.

The Ming sent a series of military reinforcements in response to bolster their positions.

Le Loi statue.JPG

In 1426, the army of Chinese General Wang Tong arrived in the Red River Delta.

However, Vietnamese forces were able to cut supply lines and control the countryside, leaving Chinese presence totally isolated in the capital and other citadels.

During this period, Nguyễn Trãi sought to undermine the resolve of the enemy and to negotiate a favorable peace by sending a series of missives to the Ming commanders.

Imperial seal [a] of Ming dynasty
Above: Imperial seal of the Ming Dynasty

In 1427 the Ming Emperor Xuande sent two large reinforcing armies to Vietnam.

Lê Lợi moved his forces to the frontier, where they confronted and utterly defeated Chinese reinforcements in a series of bloody battles, most notably the battle of Chi Lăng-Xương Giang.

Wang Tong sued for peace.

The numerous Chinese prisoners of war were all given provisions and allowed to return to China.

Nguyễn Trãi penned the aforementioned famous proclamation of victory.

Portrait assis de l'empereur Ming Xuanzong.jpg
Above: Emperor Xuanzong (or Xuande) (1399 – 1435)

According to Loren Baritz (Backfire: A History of How American Culture Led Us Into Vietnam and Made Us Fight the Way We Did), Trai set down the Vietnamese strategy against the Chinese in an essay.

This essay would prove to be very close to the Communists’ strategy of insurgency.

Specifically, you must:

“Subordinate military action to the political and moral struggle.

Better to conquer hearts than citadels.”

Backfire: A History of How American Culture Led Us into Vietnam and Made Us  Fight the Way We Did: Baritz, Loren: 9780801859533: Amazon.com: Books

After the war Nguyễn Trãi was elevated by Lê Lợi to an exalted position in the new court, but internal intrigues, sycophantic machinations and clannish nepotism meant he was not appointed Regent upon the Emperor’s death.

Instead that position was bestowed upon Le Sat, who ruled as Regent on behalf of the young heir Le Thai Tong.

At some point during the regency of Lê Sát, having found life at court increasingly difficult, Nguyễn Trãi retired to his country home north of Hanoi in the tranquil mountains of Chu Linh, where he enjoyed poetry writing and meditation.

Top Mountains in Vietnam That Are Worth Climbing
Above: Chi Linh Mountains, Vietnam

Today, visitors can visit this site where a large shrine of remembrance, covering from the foot of the mountain to the top, has been erected to honour the national hero.

The site of Nguyễn Trãi’s house still exists, however only the tiled floors remain original.

Close by is an ancient Buddhist temple, which has stood there several centuries before his time.

World cultural celebrity Nguyen Trai remembered | Culture - Sports |  Vietnam+ (VietnamPlus)
Above: Nguyen Trai Shrine

Nguyễn Trãi’s death resulted from a scandal involving the young Emperor, Lê Thái Tông, and the wife or concubine of Nguyễn Trãi, named Nguyễn Thị Lộ.

Early in 1442, the young Emperor began an affair with Nguyễn Thị Lộ.

This affair continued when the Emperor visited the old scholar at his home.

Not long after having left, Lê Thái Tông suddenly became ill and died.

The nobles at the court blamed Nguyễn Thị Lộ for the young Emperor’s death, accused them of regicide and had both, along with most members of their extended families, executed.

Ngỡ ngàng vì vua Lê Thái Tông đẹp như... soái ca | TTVH Online
Above: Le Thai Tong (1423 – 1442)

Most cities in Vietnam have named major streets after him.

The names behind the Hanoi streets: Nguyen Trai - Chao Hanoi
Above: Nguyen Trai Street, Hanoi

He wrote when he visited Ha Long Bay:

This wonder is ground raising up into the middle of the high sky.”

Natural Discovery Vietnam: HALONG BAY IN VIETNAM
Above: Halong Bay

Trịnh Cương (1686 – 1729) was the lord who ruled Tonkin from 1709 to 1729 (his title as ruler was An Đô Vương).

Trịnh Cương was born to Trịnh Bính, a grandson of the former lord Trinh Can.

He belonged to the line of Trinh lords who had ruled parts of Vietnam since 1545.

Like his great-grandfather and predecessor, Trinh Can, his reign was mostly devoted to administrative reforms.

Trịnh Cương.png
Above: Portrait of Trinh Cuong

Trịnh Cương ruled Việt Nam during a time of external peace but growing internal strife.

He enacted many governmental reforms in both financial matters and judicial rules.

His main concern was the growing problem of landless peasants.

Unlike the Nguyen lords who were constantly expanding their territory south, the Trịnh lords had little room for expansion.

So the land supply was essentially fixed but the population kept growing.

Trịnh Cương tried various legislative means to solve the problem.

He tried to limit private land holdings.

He tried to redistribute the communal fields of the small villages.

Nothing really worked and the problem became very serious over the succeeding decades.

Above: Trinh Cuong

According to historian R.H. Bruce Lockhart, the governmental reforms enacted by Trịnh Cương and his great-grandfather, Trinh Can, made the government more effective, but they also made the government more of a burden to the people.

This had the effect of increasing the hatred felt by the people towards the Trịnh rulers in Hanoi.

QUOTES BY R. H. BRUCE LOCKHART | A-Z Quotes
Above: Robert Hamilton Bruce Lockhart (1887 – 1970)

Trịnh Cương passed an edict forbidding people to practice Christianity in 1712.

Like previous efforts to suppress Christianity, this had little real effect in Vietnam.

However, he tried to offer the people an alternative and had many Buddhist pagodas constructed during his rule.

Lord Trịnh. | Việt nam, Hoàng đế, Nghệ thuật
Above: Trinh Cuong

As far as the Lê Dynasty was concerned, the Emperor Le Du Tong ruled throughout Trịnh Cương’s lifetime.

The two men died within a few months of each other in 1729.

Kỹ thuật ướp xác độc đáo của người Việt
Above: Emperor Le Du Tong (1679 – 1731)

Ha Long Bay inspired these words from him:

Mountains are glistened by water shadow.

Water spills all over the sky.”.

Hoa Cuong Fishing village - Halong Bay Cruise Deals
Above: Halong Bay

Hồ Chí Minh (1890 – 1969) was a Vietnamese revolutionary and politician.

He served as Prime Minister of North Vietnam from 1945 to 1955 and President from 1945 until his death in 1969.

Ideologically a Marxist-Leninist, he served as Chairman and First Secretary of the Workers’ Party of Vietnam.

Hồ Chí Minh led the Viet Minh independence movement from 1941 onward, establishing the Communist-ruled Democratic Republic of Vietnam in 1945 and defeating the French in 1954 at the Battle of Dien Bien Phu, ending the First Indochina War.

He was a key figure in the People’s Army of Vietnam and the Viet Cong during the Vietnam War, which lasted from 1955 to 1975.

The Democratic Republic of Vietnam was victorious against the Republic of Vietnam and its allies, and was officially reunified with the Republic of South Vietnam in 1976.

Saigon, the former capital of South Vietnam, was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in his honour.

Ho officially stepped down from power in 1965 due to health problems, and died in 1969.

Ho Chi Minh 1946.jpg
Above: Ho Chi Minh

Aside from being a politician, Ho was also a writer, a poet and a journalist.

He wrote several books, articles and poems in French, Chinese and Vietnamese.

The Prison Diary of Ho Chi Minh by Hồ Chí Minh

Of Ha Long Bay, he wrote:

“It is the wonder that one cannot impart to others.”

Above: Halong Bay

Phạm Văn Đồng (1906 – 2000) was a Vietnamese politician who served as Prime Minister of North Vietnam from 1955 to 1976.

He later served as Prime Minister of Vietnam, following reunification of North and South Vietnam, from 1976 until he retired in 1987 under the rule of Le Duan and Nguyen Van Linh. 

He was considered one of Ho Chi Minh’s closest lieutenants.

Phạm Văn Đồng 1972.jpg
Above: Pham Van Dong

Of Ha Long Bay, he asked:

Is it one scenery or many sceneries?

Is it the scenery of the world or somewhere else?

Vietnam the Bay up to Mountain - 7 Days - Vietnam Local Tour
Above: Halong Bay

Nguyễn Tuân (1910 – 1987) was a renowned Vietnamese author.

Current literature books for public school in Vietnam rank him as one of the nine biggest authors of contemporary Vietnamese literature.

He is known for his essays on multiple subjects, with a clever and creative way in using the language. 

Hanoi has a street named after him, in the Thanh Xuan district.

Tiểu sử tác giả Nguyễn Tuân: Sự nghiệp sáng tác văn học
Above: Nguyen Tuan

In 1929, during his last year of the intermediate schooling (the equivalence of 9th grade in junior high school), Nguyễn Tuân was suspended because of his participation in a petition against a few French teachers, who demeaned Vietnamese people.

Shortly after, he was imprisoned for illegally crossing the border of colonial French Indochina to Thailand.

Upon his release, he started writing as a journalist and an author.

Nguyễn Tuân began his writings in the early 1930s, but only gained public recognition from 1938 with several essays and reports such as Vang Bóng Một Thời (Echo and Shadow Upon a Time), Một Chuyến Đi (A Trip), etc.

Vang Bóng Một Thời

Nhà văn Nguyễn Tuân. Nguyễn Tuân. Vang bóng một thời. tiểu sử Nguyễn Tuân |  TTVH Online

In 1941, he was again imprisoned, this time for his communication with the political revolutionaries.

After the August Revolution in 1945, Nguyễn Tuân joined the Communist Party and kept working as a writer.

From 1948 to 1958, he held the position of Chief Secretary of the Vietnamese Art & Literature Association.

His works during this time feature mostly the scenery and cultural color of Vietnam, such as the collection of essays Sông Đà (Black River) (1960), a diary from the Vietnam War (1965–1975), among others.

Nguyễn Tuân died in Hanoi in 1987, leaving his readers a collection of exceedingly creative and artistic work.

Phân tích tùy bút Người lái đò sông Đà của Nguyễn Tuân - Theki.vn

Nguyễn Tuân was first a patriot, who expressed deep love for traditional values and cultural beauties.

Having a great appreciation of the Vietnamese language, he admired not only masterpieces from famous authors, but also the arts of the common people, like ca tru, a form of theatrical singing of northern Vietnam.

The interest did not stop at being just a spectator, but helped him study and become knowledgeable at various topics, ranging from painting, sculpture, theatre arts, to film.

Nguyễn Tuân was also one of the first actors of Vietnamese motion picture industry, with his participation in the first Vietnamese movie Cánh Đồng Ma (The Haunted Field).

Above: Movie poster of Canh Dong Ma

Unlike the traditional Vietnamese people whose life and perception were often enclosed by the border of their village, Nguyễn Tuân was an adventurer.

His early works, such as Thiếu Quê Hương (Without a Homeland), depict a strong character yearning for change and adventure, to learn about the world outside one’s comfort zone, and to improve oneself.

He is said to claim that his personality is guided by the principle of chủ nghĩa xê dịch (“motionism“), having coined the term himself.

He also envisioned himself as having a mindset greater than that of the society at the time, which provoked dispute from readers and the government officials.

The conceited Nguyễn Tuân gradually gave way to a calmer character as he aged, which showed in the change of tone in his works, going from self-centered to self-mocking and mostly observant and descriptive of the surroundings.

Throughout his life, Nguyễn Tuân stressed and highly valued individualism.

Thiếu Quê Hương (NXB Hội Nhà Văn 2006) - Nguyễn Tuân, 397 Trang | Sách Việt  Nam

Nguyễn Tuân was not a successful writer from the beginning of his career.

Having tried a variety of forms and techniques, such as poetry, journals, realist satire in the form of short stories, he only realized his forte in essays in early 1938.

This resulted in several successes: 

  • Một Chuyến Đi (A Trip)
  • Vang Bóng Một Thời (Echo Shadow Upon A Time)
  • Thiếu Quê Hương (Without a Homeland)
  • Chiếc Lư Đồng Mắt Cua (The Crab-Eyed Copper Censer).

Chiếc Lư Đồng Mắt Cua: Nguyễn Tuân: 8935235203914: Amazon.com: Books

Before the August Revolution of 1945, the main topics of Nguyễn Tuân’s work revolved around “motionism“, the beauty of the past, and the corrupted life style.

The idea of “motionism” was first created from his frustration and helplessness toward the historical period and its society.

As he travelled, or “moved“, however, his appreciation for nature and culture of the country grew, and was documented in his work (Một Chuyến Đi) with care.

E.E - Emprunt Empreinte - Mượn Dấu Thời Gian: Nguyễn Tuân (1910-1987)

The beauty of the past is portrayed in Vang Bóng Một Thời, with stories about old traditions, the old life style, which he collected from his trips.

This collection of essays and short stories are written in a narrative voice of the Confucianists, whose roles were receding to the past and replaced by the new French-influenced culture.

An example of this character type is Huấn Cao, in the short story Chữ Người Tử Tù (Penmanship of A Death Row Prisoner).

Huấn Cao is another name of the historical figure Cao Ba Quat, a revolutionary against French control in Vietnam.

Nguyễn Tuân’s work during this period of time shows a disbelief in the present and the future.

Soạn Bài Chữ Người Tử Tù Siêu Dễ Hiểu

On the other hand, corrupt lifestyle is a common topic among the realist writers of the time.

Nguyễn Tuân was not an exception.

In his work involving this topic, the narrator was often confused and lost.

Nonetheless, the characters, despite living in poor conditions, wish for a pure lifestyle and maintain their respectable traditional values.

Such characteristics make Nguyễn Tuân’s work, Chiếc Lư Đồng Mắt Cua for example, different from other realists.

Phần 4 - Tiểu luận phê bình: Nguyễn Tuân - Nhà văn của hình dung từ

After the August Revolution of 1945, Nguyễn Tuân’s work was heavily influenced by socialism and communism, as to be suitable for publication under the Communist government control.

Although the stories and characters were changed, the style remained clever and honed to perfection.

The main theme was still an illustration of his patriotism, with strong focus now shifted to the common people, farmers, workers, and military men, in a newly constructed society.

Communist Party of Vietnam flag logo.svg
Above: Communist Party symbol

Nguyễn Tuân mastered the journal free style, with a tone easily distinguished from other authors.

Before the August Revolution in 1945, his style can be summarized as free will with a dash of eccentricity.

Every subject of his essays was described with artistic remarks and knowledgeable observations.

Kỷ niệm giữa Nguyễn Tuân và Anh Đức trong chiến tranh - Tuần Báo Văn Nghệ  TP.HCM
Above: Nguyen Tuan

After 1945, his works no longer seek the contrast between the old traditional values and the new life, but the tone still had the light combination of quaintness and youthful.

Because Nguyễn Tuân praised the idea of “motionism“, his characters are full of willful emotions, and even the settings of his works usually reflected a sense of confidence and a majestic spirit, that is said to be higher than those of his surrounding environment and of his time.

An example is the character Bạch in Thiếu Quê Hương (Without a Homeland).

Strongly emphasized, the self in Nguyễn Tuân’s works also carries careful thoughts and examination of the surroundings.

The aloofness in early works was replaced by a more subtle self-humor, an indication of the maturity in his literary style and life.

Sai, ông gọi là 'chủ nghĩa xê dịch' - VnExpress
Above: Portrait of Nguyen Tuan

Of Ha Long Bay, he wrote:

Only mountains accept to be old, but Ha Long sea and wave are young forever.”

Vietnam - Hue - Halong Bay - 18 | Hạ Long Bay (Vietnamese: V… | Flickr
Above: Halong Bay

Ngô Xuân Diệu (1916 – 1985) was a Vietnamese poet, journalist, short-story writer and literary critic, best known as one of the prominent figures of the twentieth-century Tho moi (New Poetry) Movement.

Heralded by critics as “the newest of the New Poets“, Xuân Diệu rose to popularity with the collection Thơ thơ (1938), which demonstrates a distinct voice influenced by Western literature, notably French symbolism.

He was one of the first to employ Western poetic devices like enjambment (incomplete syntax at the end of a line, wherein the meaning runs over from one poetic line to the next, without terminal punctuation) in Vietnamese poetry, while occasionally adhering to traditional forms like luc bat.

Xuân Diệu in his youth.
Above: Ngo Xuan Dieu

(A traditional Vietnamese verse form, “Lục bát” is Vietnamese for “six eight“, referring to the alternating lines of six and eight syllables, always beginning with a six-syllable line and ending with an eight-syllable one.

Unlike other verse forms which are traditionally enjoyed only by high-class Vietnamese, lục bát is traditionally composed and enjoyed by people of all classes, from the lowly peasants to the noble princes.

It can be regarded as a living style of Vietnamese people.

The rich treasure of Vietnamese folk poems (ca dao), which consists of hundreds of thousands of verses that reflect on life, morality, human relationships, and natural beauty, is almost entirely composed in lục bát form.

The 3,774 verses in “Quốc Sử Diễn Ca” (The Epic Song of National History) composed by Vietnamese poet Lê Ngô Cát under the reign of King Tu Duc are also entirely in the form of lục bát.

Đại Nam Quốc Sử Diễn Ca Quyển 1 (NXB Sông Nhị 1949) - Lê Ngô Cát, 108 Trang  | Thư Viện Luận Văn

Poet Nguyễn Du of the Lê dynasty also composed 3,254 lục bát verses, telling the story of an unfortunate beauty in his renowned epic Truyen Kieu (The Tale of Kiều).

ThuykieuTruyen.jpg
Above: The Tale of Kieu

An English poem, rhymed in (an adaption of) Lục bát:

The grand untarnished sea –

How glorious for me and you

To wander as we do

Along its beach and through the tide!

How can I harbour pride

Now walking here beside the shore?

Can you, my love, ignore

The sigh, forevermore to dwell

Within our glassy shell?

The gleaming stars, which fell to Earth

What was their glory worth

Beside the gentle birth of life?

What need have we for strife?

The two of us, dear wife, are free!)

Vietnam - Hue - Halong Bay - 15 | Hạ Long Bay (Vietnamese: V… | Flickr
Above: Halong Bay

Between 1936 and 1944, his poetry was characterized by a desperation for love, juxtaposed with a desire to live and to experience the beauty of the world.

Trang thơ Xuân Diệu - Ngô Xuân Diệu (350 bài thơ, 156 bài dịch)
Above: Xuan Dieu

(This is an emotion with which I can relate.)

Neil Diamond – I'm Alive (1982, Vinyl) - Discogs

Take a walk
We can hardly breathe the air
Look around
It’s a hard life everywhere

People talk, but they never really care
On the street there’s a feeling of despair
Everyday, there’s a brand new baby born
Everyday, there’s a sun to keep you warm

Well, it’s alright
Yeah, it’s alright
I’m alive
And I don’t care much for words of doom

If it’s love you need
Well, I got the room
It’s a simple thing that came to me
When I found you

I’m alive
I’m alive


Every night on the streets of Hollywood
Pretty girls come to give you something good

Love for sale
It’s a lonely town at night
Therapy for a heart misunderstood
Look around. There’s a flower on every street.
Look around and it’s growing at your feet.

Everyday you can hear me say
That I’m alive
I want to take all that life has got to give
All I need is someone to share it with

I got love and love is all I really need to live


I’m alive
I’m alive


Everyday, there’s a brand new baby born
Everyway, there’s enough to keep you warm

It’s ok
And I’m glad to say
I’m alive


And I don’t care much for words of doom

If it’s love you got, well, I’ve got the room
It’s a simple thing that came to me when I found you


I’m alive
I’m alive

And I don’t care much for words of doom
If it’s love you need, well, I got the room
It’s a simple thing that came to me and I thank God
I’m alive

I can take all that life has got to give
If I’ve got someone to share it with….

Heartlight cover.jpg

After joining the Vietnamese Communist Party in 1945, the themes of his works shifted towards the Party and their resistance against the French and the Americans.

When he died in 1985, he left behind about 450 poems, as well as several short stories, essays, and literary criticisms.

The names behind the Hanoi streets: Xuan Dieu - Chao Hanoi

In 1936, Xuân Diệu was enrolled in the Lycée Khai Dinh in Hué, where he received his baccalauréat in 1937.

Above: Gate to Khai Dinh, Hué, Vietnam

He then left for Hanoi, where he studied law and joined the left-wing Tu Luc van doan (The Self-Strengthening Literary Union), mostly composed of young Vietnamese writers who studied under the colonial education system and were well-versed in both Vietnamese and Western literature.

He was a late comer to the group, which by then had established themselves as a powerful platform for Vietnamese intellectuals, publishing romance novels that entertained the crowd alongside satirical works that lambasted both contemporary society and the French administration.

自力文團標章.svg
Above: Badge of the Self-Strengthening literary group (1934 – 1940)

According to literary critics, Xuân Diệu borrowed inspiration from romanticism, yet he “burned the Utopian scenery and ushered the audience back into the real world.”

They acknowledged Charles Baudelaire’s influence on Xuân Diệu, compared aspects of his poetry to Anna de Noailles and André Gide, and judged him as the pinnacle of French-influenced Vietnamese poetry.

Charles Baudelaire by Étienne Carjat, 1863
Above: French poet Charles Baudelaire (1821 – 1867)

Anna, Countess of Noailles, 1913, by Philip de László
Above: French poet Anna de Noailles (1876 – 1933)

André Gide.jpg
Above: French writer André Gide (1869 – 1951)

Between 1938 and 1940, Xuân Diệu lived with poet Huy Can at 40 Hàng Than Street in Hanoi.

Above: Vietnamese poet Cu Hay Can (1919 – 2005)

After Japan entered French Indochina in September 1940, many members of Xuân Diệu’s literary group began to focus entirely on politics.

Near the end of the year, Xuân Diệu departed for My Tho and worked as an official.

Mỹ Tho, Mekong Delta, Vietnam
Above: My Tho, Mekong Delta, Vietnam

Some of the remaining members were arrested by the French and imprisoned in the faraway Son La Prison, marking the beginning of the demise of the group.

Son La Former Prison & Museum
Above: Son La Prison and Museum, Hanoi

When Xuân Diệu returned to Hanoi in 1942, most of the writers with whom he once worked had drifted apart or considered joining the anti-colonial resistance led by Ho Chi Minh.

Photos] Emperor Bao Dai's 1942 Offering of Worship to Heaven and Earth -  Urbanist Hanoi | Photo, Heaven on earth, Imperial palace
Above: Emperor Bao Dai’s Offering of Worship to Heaven and Earth, Hanoi, 1942

He pursued writing as a full-time career for two years, before joining the revolutionaries in Viet Bac in 1944.

Instead of combatting on the front line, Xuân Diệu stayed behind to write in support of the independence movement. 

After the Việt Minh gained victory in 1954, Xuân Diệu returned to Hanoi and published both as a poet and as a journalist.

Above: Viet Minh flag

In 1956, he married 27-year-old director Bach Diep, but the relationship was not consummated and the pair quickly separated.

Film Screening "The Legend of Mother" by Director Bach Diep - Hanoi  Grapevine
Above: Bach Diep (1929 – 2013)

While Bạch Diệp was later remarried to another man, Xuân Diệu lived alone in an apartment right above the house of Huy Cận, who was now married to Xuân Diệu’s younger sister, Ngô Xuân Như.

Above: The house on Điện Biên Phủ Road, formerly 24 Cột Cờ Road, where Xuân Diệu lived in an apartment above Huy Cận’s family until his death in 1985

Between 1955 and June 1958, Xuân Diệu was embroiled in the famous Nhan Van – Giai Pham Affair.

Nhà văn hóa dân tộc Xuân Diệu
Above: Portrait of Xuan Dieu

(The Nhan Van – Giai Pham Affair was a cultural-political movement in North Vietnam in the late 1950s, when two periodicals were established during that time, Nhan Van (Humanities) and Giai Phẩm (Masterpieces), many issues of which were published demanding freedom of speech, creativity and human rights.

Following a loosening of political restrictions, there was a hardening of attitudes.

After those two major journals were closed down, their political associates were imprisoned or re-educated.

Moreover, the agenda of Nhân VănGiai Phẩm was linked to “reactionary” political projects by North Vietnamese government.)

Giai Phẩm - SISMO

As the First Indochina War had come to an end, and some reforms of the new administration had led to disastrous results, dissenting voices began to rise amongst those who had supported the Việt Minh and were now demanding the freedom to criticize the wrongdoings of the government.

First Indochina War COLLAGE.jpg
Above: Images of the First Indochina War (1946 – 1954)

Although the government did come to admit their mistakes, the movement soon developed from criticism of the government to personal attacks and calls for a major overhaul, causing a rift between pro-government writers and dissenters.

In the end, Xuân Diệu, along with others, took the side of the government.

Flag of North Vietnam (Cộng Sản)
Above: Flag of North Vietnam (1955 – 1976)

In a scathing response published in May 1958, he accused dissenters of “capitalistic individualism” and “attempting to poison our atmosphere of prose and poetry, which means that we should wipe them out, that we should cleanse them.”

As tensions rose between North and South Vietnam leading up to the Vietnam War, Xuân Diệu continued to write in support of the Communist efforts against US and South Vietnamese forces.

Map showing the partition of French Indochina following the 1954 Geneva Conference
Above: Partition of French Indochina, 1954

He also translated a variety of foreign-language writers.

His first works of literary analysis, released in the late 1950s and throughout the 1960s, explored the cultural significance of classic Vietnamese poets.

Quan niệm của Xuân Diệu về phê bình văn học - Tạp chí Sông Hương
Above: Xuan Dieu

In the last two decades of his life, Xuân Diệu became an advocate for young writers.

He wrote the book Conversation with Young Poets in 1961 to give some advice both as an experienced writer and as an enthusiast who wished to see Vietnamese poetry flourish in the future.

Xuan Dieu and the new poetry

When a ten-year-old boy named Tran Dang Khoa from Hai Duong Province gained attention with his flair for poetry, Xuân Diệu himself went to meet the boy and offered to proofread his first poetry collection.

In his later reminiscences, Khoa remarked on how Xuân Diệu mentored him as he grew up and changed his writing style.

By the time Khoa became an adult, he visited the senile poet at his apartment in Hanoi and noticed that Xuân Diệu had become occupied with thoughts of death and old age, yet devoted himself to writing poetry anyway.

Trần Đăng Khoa-Từ thần đồng thơ đến người kể chuyện chuyện hóm - Văn Nghệ  Đà Nẵng
Above: Tran Dang Khoa

On 18 December 1985, Xuân Diệu died at his home from a sudden heart attack.

His life-long friend Huy Cận was said to have demanded that the funeral be postponed until he could come back from Dakar, Senegal.

Dakar - Panorama urbain.jpg
Above: Skyline of Dakar, Senegal

To his dismay, the funeral was carried out soon after and was attended by a lot of Vietnamese artists at the time, including Xuân Diệu’s ex-wife Bach Diep and composer Van Cao, whom he had publicly insulted during the Nhan Van – Giai Pham Affair.

Nhạc sĩ Văn Cao - "Cây cổ thụ 3 ngọn" của nền nghệ thuật Việt Nam | Báo dân  sinh
Above: Vietnamese composer Van Cao (1923 – 1995)

Xuân Diệu was laid to rest in Mai Dich Cemetery on the outskirts of Hanoi.

Mai Dich Cemetery in Hanoi, Hà Nội Municipality - Find A Grave Cemetery
Above: Gate to Mai Dich Cemetery, Hanoi

A prolific writer, Xuân Diệu left behind an abundance of poems, short stories, notes and essays.

His two major poetry collections are Thơ thơ (1938) and Gửi hương cho gió (Casting Fragrance to the Wind, 1945), and his only published short story collection is titled Phấn thông vàng (Gold Pine Pollens, 1939).

Sách Xuân Diệu - Thơ Thơ Gửi Hương Cho Gió

Love is just a little bit of death in the heart,

For how often can one love in certainty that love will be returned?

Giving so much love and receiving so little of it,

Because people are fickle or indifferent?

Who knows?

Freddie Mercury Love Kills Single 1984.png

The jukebox of my mind then plays “How Can You Mend a Broken Heart?” by the Bee Gees.

The Bee Gees - How Can You Mend a Broken Heart?.jpg

In the poem “Vội vàng” (“In Haste“), which is currently included in Vietnam’s high school curriculum, Xuân Diệu also described an obsession with the passage of time and the existential dread that nature “does not prolong the youth of mankind”. 

The fears and obsessions are all in accord with the speaker’s eventual yearning for intimacy and the decision to rebel against the brevity of life.

Perched on a branch, the bird longs for its brook

It will break into song and not know why.

Its ditties cannot make the fruits grow ripe.

Its carols cannot help the flowers bloom.

It is profitless to sing, and yet the bird

Will burst its throat and heart to sing its best.

Luscinia megarhynchos - 01.jpg
Above: Nightingale

(I view my writing and Heidi‘s travels in much the same way.

Why we do what we do is in our natures, difficult to define.

What we do may not at first glance make much of a difference in the world.

But write I must and travel Heidi will.)

To Travel is to Live

The liveliness in the verse of Xuân Diệu was emblematic of the Vietnamese youth at the time, who had just been exposed to an immense world and, consequently, “the dreariness of the universe and the tragedy of the human fate”.[

In the face of his epiphany, the youthful man chose to cling to love and reject everything. 

Tân Nhạc VN – Thơ Phổ Nhạc – “Chiều” – (“Mộ Khúc”) – Xuân Diệu & Phạm Duy |  Đọt Chuối Non

Despite his bold literary persona, Xuân Diệu was a secretive individual, with most of the tales regarding his private life being told by his acquaintances before and after his death. 

Top 10 Bài thơ hay của nhà thơ Xuân Diệu - Toplist.vn
Above: Xuan Dieu

The writer exists in his works.

Without his works, the writer might as well be dead.”

72 of the Best Quotes for Writers - Writer's Digest

Photograph of Virginia Woolf in 1902; photograph by George Charles Beresford
Above: Virginia Woolf (1882 – 1941)

It is said that when Xuân Diệu visited Ha Long Bay, he wrote:

Here is the unfinished works of the Beings.

Here are the stones with which the Giant played and then threw away.”

Halong Bay at sunrise - Picture of Tonkin Travel, Hanoi - Tripadvisor
Above: Halong Bay

The jukebox of my mind recalls an ancient ballad from the legendary duo of Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel:

They say that Richard Cory owns
One-half of this whole town
With political connections
To spread his wealth around
Born into society
A banker’s only child
He had everything a man could want
Power, grace and style.

But I work in his factory
And I curse the life I’m living
And I curse my poverty
And I wish that I could be
Oh I wish that I could be
Oh I wish that I could be
Richard Cory

The papers print his picture
Almost everywhere he goes
Richard Cory at the opera
Richard Cory at a show
And the rumor of his party
And the orgies on his yacht!
Oh he surely must be happy
With everything he’s got

But I…
I work in his factory
And I curse the life I’m living
And I curse my poverty
And I wish that I could be
Oh I wish that I could be
Oh I wish that I could be
Richard Cory

He freely gave to charity
He had the common touch
And they were grateful for his patronage
And they thanked him very much
So my mind was filled with wonder
When the evening headlines read
:
Richard Cory went home last night
And put a bullet through his head

But I…
I work in his factory
And I curse the life I’m living
And I curse my poverty
And I wish that I could be
Oh I wish that I could be
Oh I wish that I could be
Richard Cory

RICHARD CORY (Simon & Garfunkel) by ALFONSO LLORENTE SARDI
Above: The Suicide, Édouard Manet

I think of this song as I wonder not only how did Heidi see Halong Bay, but how did the denizens of Halong see Heidi?

Here's looking at you kid" Rick Blaine (Humphrey Bogart) to Ilsa Lund  (Ingrid Bergman) in Casablanca (1942) | Ingrid bergman, Casablanca 1942,  Humphrey bogart
Above: Scene from the movie Casablanca (1942)

The population of Hạ Long Bay is about 1,540, mainly in Cửa Vạn, Ba Hang and Cặp Dè fishing villages (Hùng Thắng Ward, Hạ Long City).

Residents of the Bay mostly live on boats and rafts buoyed by tires and plastic jugs to facilitate the fishing, cultivating and breeding of aquatic and marine species.

Fish require feeding every other day for up to three years, when they are eventually sold to local seafood restaurants for up to 300,000 Vietnamese dong per kilogram.

Today the life of Hạ Long Bay inhabitants has much improved due to new travel businesses.

Residents of the floating villages around the Ha Long bay now offer bedrooms for rent, boat tours, and fresh seafood meals to tourists.

While this is an isolating, back-breaking lifestyle, floating village residents are considered wealthy to residents of other Hạ Long Bay islands.

Above: Fishing village, Halong Bay

At present, the Quảng Ninh provincial government has a policy to relocate the households living in the Bay to resettle, in order to stabilize their life and to protect the landscape of the heritage zone.

More than 300 households living in fishing villages in Hạ Long Bay have been relocated ashore in Khe Cá Resettlement Area, now known as Zone 8 (Hà Phong Ward, Hạ Long City) since May 2014.

This project will continue to be implemented.

The province will only retain a number of fishing villages for sightseeing tours.

Official seal of Quảng Ninh province
Above: Official seal of Quang Ninh Province

Of the 1,969 islands in Ha Long, only approximately 40 are inhabited.

These islands range from tens to thousands of hectares in size, mainly in the east and southeast of Hạ Long Bay.

In recent decades, thousands of villagers have been starting to settle down on the pristine islands and build new communities, such as Sa Tô Island (Hạ Long City) and Thắng Lợi Island (Vân Đồn district).

Ha Long Bay (Vietnam) Travel Information | Vietnam Visa for Ha Long Bay
Above: Halong Bay

From Hanoi, you take a minibus from Gia Lam bus station.

Tickets are 90,000 dong, takes approximately 4 hours and the bus will pick up passengers along the way.

Air conditioning is minimal, so be prepared to sweat in summer.

Larger-sized tourists will not find it to be a pleasant journey, but it is a authentic Vietnamese experience.

A World Away: How to Travel from Hanoi to Hai Phong
Above: Gia Lam Bust Station, Hanoi

The vast majority of tourists take a ‘tour’.

This consists of a morning shuttle bus from their hotel or an agent in central Hanoi to a Halong port controlled by a mafia that basically only ships people to Cat Ba Island.

This gives you the least possible options but can be an easy alternative for time-short tourists.

If you do choose this option, standards vary considerably:

While comfortable (or even luxurious) boats, excellent food and knowledgeable and enthusiastic guides may be available, most are characterised by long and crowded bus journeys, rip-off trips on boats so slow you could swim faster (to get you to buy more food and drink on board), hard-sell add-ons, such as brief stops for kayaking, water cave visits and other shady practices. 

16 of the Absolute Best Halong Bay Cruise Recommendations in 2021!

It is best to avoid beaches and swimming until you get to the islands: depending on the winds, the beach water can be a varying combination between a garbage dump and crystal clear water.

Top 3 Most Beautiful Halong Bay Beaches - Halong Hub

Here are things you can choose to do:

  • Cruise
  • Kayaking
  • Stand up paddle board
  • Explore caves
  • Visit floating villages
  • Swimming
  • Tai Chi
  • Cooking class
  • Tu hài is an expensive gourmet shellfish associated with the Van Don Island district, sometimes called ‘snail spout‘. It is reputed to have a particularly unique and unforgettable taste. It can be prepared in soup or salads, steamed or baked. Steamed tu hài is sweet and cool, and sometimes mixed with spices.

Hướng Dẫn Cách Làm Tu Hài Nướng Mỡ Hành Tuyệt Phẩm - Hải Sản Tươi Sống
Above: Tu hai

  • Horseshoe crab is gradually becoming a specialty of Halong Bay.

Above: Horseshoe crab

It is best to avoid beaches and swimming until you get to the islands:

Depending on the winds, the beach water can be a varying combination between a garbage dump and crystal clear water.

Dirty Halong Bay with garbage and pollution: NO MORE! - Halong Hub

Cát Bà Island is the largest of the 367 islands spanning 260 km2 (100 sq mi) that comprise the Cat Ba Archipelago, which makes up the southeastern edge of Lan Ha Bay in Northern Vietnam.

Cat Ba Island Tours & Vietnam Trip | Enchanting Travels
Above: Cat Ba Island

Cat Ba Island means “Women’s Island” – Cac / all and Ba / women.

Legend has it that many centuries ago, three women of the Tran Dynasty were killed and their bodies floated all the way to Cat Ba Island.

Each body washed up on a different beach and all three were found by local fishermen.

The residents of Cat Ba built a temple for each woman, and the island soon became known as Cat Ba.

Stories about Ninh Binh to Cat Ba Island | The Ride
Above: Cat Ba Island

Archaeological evidence suggests that people have lived on Cat Ba Island for almost 6,000 years, with the earliest settlements being found on the southeastern tip of the Island close to the area where Ban Beo harbour sits today.

In 1938, a group of French archaeologists discovered human remains belonging “to the Cai Beo people of the Ha Long culture, which lived between 4,000 and 6,500 years ago, considered to be perhaps the first population group occupying the northeastern territorial waters of Vietnam, and the Cai Beo people may be an intermediary link between the population strata at the end of the Neolithic Age, some 4,000 years ago.

Cai Beo Fishing Village Travel Guide - BestPrice Travel

In more recent history, Cat Ba Island was inhabited mostly by Viet-Chinese fisherman and was largely influenced by both the French and American Wars.

The Island was a strategic look-out point and bombing during the wars often forced local residents to hide among the Island’s many caves.

Today, the best reminders of the two wars have been turned into tourist attractions.

Cat Ba 2.JPG
Above: Cat Ba Island

Hospital Cave, which was a secret, bomb-proof hospital during the American War and as a safe house for VC leaders.

This three-storey feat of engineering was in use until 1975 is only 10 km north of Cat Ba Town.

Above: Hospital Cave

The second attraction, the newly built Cannon Fort, sits on a peak 177 meters high, offering visitors a chance to see old bunkers and helicopter landing stations as well as views of Cat Ba Island, its coast, and the limestone karsts in Lan Ha Bay offshore.

A Complete Guide To Cannon Fort Cat Ba Island Vietnam | Expatolife
Above: Cannon Fort

In 1979, the third Indochina War broke out between China and Vietnam in response to Vietnam’s invasion of Cambodia that ended the reign of the Khmer Rouge.

Above: The Khmer Rouge killed between 1.6 and 1.8 million Cambodians during the Cambodian Genocide. They also invaded Ba Chúc, Vietnam, and massacred 3,157 Vietnamese civilians, which prompted Vietnam to invade Cambodia and overthrow the regime.

Relations between China and Vietnam collapsed, leading to the Vietnamese government evicting around 30,000 of the fishermen, and most of the rest of the Chinese community from the greater Ha Long area.

Pins China-Vietnam | Friendship Pins China-XXX | Flags C | Crossed Flag  Pins Shop
Above: Flags of China (left) and Vietnam (right)

Today, increases in infrastructure on the Island (including the building of bigger roads, dams to build harbours and to protect Cat Ba Town from flooding, consistent electricity being brought to the Island (which surprisingly happened as late as 1997) instead of having to rely on a generator, and large ferries and barges, able to transport trucks and cars to the Island from the mainland making daily trips to Cat Ba) made it easier for tourists to visit the Island, leading to a rapid increase in tourism and development in Cat Ba Town starting in 2001.

Since then, a stop on Cat Ba Island has been included in the itinerary of many Ha Long Bay cruises and a strip of tall, thin, five-storey budget hotels line the seafront, receiving more than 350,000 visitors a year.

Cat Ba town.JPG
Above: Cat Ba Town

Currently, over 150 hotels are listed in Cat Ba Island’s tourist directory pamphlet, from cheap budget hotels to flashier upscale resorts, and construction is underway on many more.

Right now, construction is under way on the colossal Cat Ba Amatina, an enormous project that will transform the southern coast of the island.

The Amatina compound will be “a world-class integrated marina, casino, resort and theme park” spanning 171.57 hectares and will be able to host almost 6,000 residents at a time.

The Amatina will boast “seven resorts with over 800 villas, three marinas, one international convention palace, six five-star hotels and one four-star hotel“.

The scale of this project is gigantic and will basically create a luxurious mini-city on Cat Ba and will attract tourists from around the world.

Tái khởi động dự án tỉ USD tại đảo Cát Bà - Tuổi Trẻ Online

Cat Ba Island has become the adventure-tourism capital of Vietnam, and many of the activities advertised are nature-based.

Visitors can:

  • kayak
  • take boat cruises through Ha Long Bay and the Cat Ba Archipelago
  • hike through the national park
  • mountain bike around the Island,
  • spend time hiking and swimming on Monkey Island just offshore
  • stay at Monkey Island Resort for a real relaxing time on private beaches
  • explore the Island’s many caves
  • swim on Cat Co 1, 2, or 3 (three sandy beaches a short walk from Cat Ba Town)
  • go rock climbing on the limestone karsts in Lan Ha Bay.

With so many things to do, Cat Ba Island is slowly gaining popularity as an alternative to crowded Ha Long City.

With its scenery, its association with Ha Long Bay, its proximity to cities like Haiphong (50 km) and Hanoi (150 km), and even China – (Many regional visitors come to the Island in the summer, the busy season, to avoid the heat and pollution in the cities) – and plenty to do, Cat Ba Island has become a major travel destination for foreign and Vietnamese visitors alike.

Above: Cat Ba Island

At the heart of Cat Ba Island lies an ecologically diverse national park.

In 1986, 9,800 [98 km²] hectares (approximately one-third of the Island’s total land mass) was annexed as Cat Ba National Park, the first decreed protected area in Vietnam to include a marine component (Dawkins 14).

It had previously been the site of a timber company.

In 2006, the boundaries of the national park were redefined, so the park contained 109 km² of land area and an additional 52 km² of inshore waters and mangrove-covered tidal zones.

The park is staffed by 92 people, including over 60 park rangers.

In 2004, Cat Ba Archipelago was declared a UNESCO Man and Biosphere Reserve Area in order to protect the multiple terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems as well the diverse plant and animal life that is found on the Island.

The UNESCO designation divides the archipelago into three distinct areas, each with certain functions and restrictions that regulate development and conservation measures on the Island:

Cat Ba National Park | Vietnam Attractions - Lonely Planet
Above: Cat Ba National Park

Core Area

The core area needs to be legally established and is not subject to human activity, except research and monitoring, and as the case may be, to traditional extractive uses by local communities.

Cat Ba National Park more or less constitutes the core zone of the Cat Ba Archipelago Biosphere Reserve.

(8,500 hectares, of which 2,000 are marine.)

Cat Ba National Park Travel Guide - BestPrice Travel
Above: Cat Ba National Park

Buffer Zone

The buffer zone must surround or be contiguous to the core area.

Activities are organized here so that they do not hinder the conservation objectives of the core area, but rather help to protect it.

It can be an area for experimental research and it may accommodate education, tourism, and recreational facilities.

(7,741 hectares, of which 2,800 are marine.)

CAT BA NATIONAL PARK
Above: Cat Ba National Park

Outer Transitional Area

To provide support for research, monitoring, education, and information exchange related to local, national, and global issues of conservation and development.

(10,000 hectares, of which 4,400 are marine.)

Cat Ba National Park Trekking Full Day from Cat Ba Island 2021
Above: Cat Ba National Park

Goals of the National Park

The first purpose is conservation, and the park is primarily committed to protecting the nature and wildlife in the archipelago.

The second purpose is scientific research, and the third purpose is to promote eco-tourism and environmental education.

A third priority is to increase the economic development of the small communities living in the buffer zones of the national park through eco-tourism and conservation programs, that balance both conservation and economic goals.

Places to visit in Cat Ba National Park, Best time to visit Cat Ba National  Park
Above: Cat Ba National Park

Cat Ba Island is the home of the endangered Cat Ba langur, a national park, numerous caves and the most popular destination in Ha Long Bay for tourists.

The golden-headed Cat Ba langur is rarely seen, as fewer than 100 specimens are thought to survive in the wild, although it is the subject of a well-organized conservation program.

The Cat Ba langur (Trachypithecus poliocephalus), or white-headed langur, is endemic to Cat Ba Island and is one of the most endangered primates in the world.

The langurs’ population numbers, which used to be between 2,400-2,700, dwindled to as low as only 53 langurs in 2000 due to poaching for traditional medicine and habitat fragmentation caused by human development.

Today, there are approximately 68 langurs left in the wild.

Cat Ba Langur 9.jpg
Above: White-headed Cat Ba langur monkeys

The langur population and its habitat is monitored by the Cat Ba Langur Conservation Project (CBLCP), a German-based NGO that works in close cooperation with the national park staff and the local governments on Cat Ba Island and in Hai Phong province, especially the Department of Agriculture and Rural Development in Hai Phong, to protect the langur, its habitat, and to help conserve the biodiversity and environmental integrity of the entire Cat Ba Archipelago.

The project has faced in the past and will face difficulties going forward.

The CBLCP is an in situ conservation project, meaning the project works to protect both the animal and its habitat (there are no plans to put the langurs in zoos).

This means that by taking efforts to preserve the langurs, the CBLCP, by protecting the natural environment of the archipelago, really works to preserve all the species found on the archipelago and to protect the overall health of the forest.

The biggest reason for the steep decline in langur population numbers was illegal poaching and trapping of the langurs for traditional medicinal purposes.

This is a difficult trend to reverse, as the langur was being poached by local people who relied on the forest for subsistence and sold langurs to support their meagre income, and from poachers outside the Island who are part of the international illegal wildlife trade.

Another major threat facing the langurs is habitat fractionalization, due to increases in human development.

Currently, the langur population is fragmented into seven isolated sub-populations at five different locations on Cat Ba Island, with most of the langur groups being very small in number with some populations longer functional in terms of reproduction (only three groups are currently reproducing).

The fragmentation of the langur population reduces genetic variability, which is already a major problem due to the minute population numbers and makes it impossible for some groups of langurs to reproduce and replace aging group members.

The Cat Ba Langur: a primate walks the razor's edge of extinction

To fight this problem, the CBLCP focused their efforts on two approaches: increasing education and awareness levels about the decline of the langur population and other conservation issues and creating a protection network that relies on the local population.

These two approaches both take great effort and care to engage the residents of Cat Ba Island, which makes the programs more effective.

The CBLCP also takes an active approach in raising levels of environmental awareness and education on Cat Ba Island.

Cat Ba Langur – Endangered Primate Rescue Center

They also strive to create a connection between the citizens of Cat Ba Island and the natural environment.

The park covers both land and marine areas and has high biodiversity, although it is at risk from too rapid an increase in tourism.

Other mammals in the park include civet cats and oriental giant squirrels.

African civet (Civettictis civetta)
Above: Civet

Malabar Giant Squirrel-Dogra.jpg
Above: Oriental giant squirrel

Besides its natural environment, the park is home to a high number of species.

There are 1,561 recorded species of flora found in the park, from 186 families, including 406 species of wooden trees, 661 medicinal plants, and 196 edible plants.

The fauna on the island consists of 279 species, including 53 mammal species from 18 families, and 23 Endangered and Critically Endangered species.

There are 160 bird species, 66 species of reptiles and amphibians, and 274 species of insects from 79 different families.

Aquatically, there are 900 sea fish, 178 species of coral, 7 species of sea snakes, 4 species of sea turtles, and 21 species of seaweed found throughout the archipelago.

Top 10 things to do in Cat Ba Island in
Above: Cat Ba Island

Cat Ba Island faces numerous environmental problems.

Increases in tourism and recent developments threaten the ecological integrity and biodiversity of the island, reducing and fragmenting the natural habitat for Cat Ba’s numerous species.

Illegal hunting and poaching, overfishing, and water pollution in Ha Long Bay continue to threaten the ecological health of the island.

Fresh wave of foreign 'invaders' perplexes Vietnamese - Nikkei Asia

Many tour operators include an option of trekking in the National Park or canoeing on three-day tours.

Shorter tours generally only stay overnight in the small town of Cat Ba (population about 8,000) or on boats moored in Cai Beo Bay, about 2 km away from Cat Ba town.

10 Amazing Things To Do In Cat Ba Island Vietnam | Expatolife
Above: Cat Ba Island

Cat Ba itself is attractively situated around a bay teeming with small boats, many of which belong to pearl or shrimp farmers, and can become very busy at weekends and during public holidays.

The promenade has illuminations and a large fountain which only plays after dark.

It is backed by a strip of cheap hotels and bars, but dominated by the wooded limestone hills behind.

Hai Phong’s People Committee, as well as the Vietnam government, have cooperated with many organizations and educated local citizens to help protect the environment.

Also, they have communicated to the tourism board to promote a variety of campaigns to make Cat Ba Island greener and more ideal.

Emblem of Vietnam
Above: Emblem of Vietnam

Although there is much beauty to explore on the island, Cat Ba Town itself is rather crummy: construction, massage parlours, blaring music, touts and drunk tourists.

Cat Ba Town is essentially a Vietnamese resort town – (Think Blackpool or Torremolinos.) – with large numbers of Vietnamese families coming to swim and relax on some of the nearest beaches to Hanoi as well as to take budget tour boats into Lan Ha Bay.

The hotels and restaurants are largely geared to this domestic trade although there are some places that cater to the somewhat bewildered-looking foreign tourists who choose to embark on tours from here rather than from Hanoi.

Cat Ba Island - Everything You Need to Know About Cat Ba Island
Above: Cat Ba Town

Quan Lan is a historically significant outlying island with the beginnings of some tourism infrastructure and some beautiful beaches.

It is reachable by ferry (reportedly) from Halong City.

Quan Lan Island lies on the outskirts of Halong Bay, in Bai Tu Long Bay.

It is sparsely inhabited, with seaports on the northern and southern tips of the island.

Despite being inhabited by locals, the island scenery remains mostly untouched, with three long white sandy beaches and beautiful forest areas.

Quan Lan Island is also a great place to sample some of the local seafood, due to the abundance of squid, butterfish, mackerel, and shrimp in the waters.

Quan Lan - Wikitravel
Above: Quan Lan Island

In the 11th century, Quan Lan Island was in the middle of an important trade route between Vietnam, Japan, the Philippines, Thailand, and China.

Today it is more of a sleepy island than a busy port, but Quan Lan is still home to some of Halong Bay’s culturally significant historic buildings, such as the Quan Lan Communal House Complex, with a pagoda, and temple which was first built in the 17th century and has been well maintained ever since.

This Complex has been recognized as a National Historic Relic in Vietnam since 1990.

Above: Quan Lan Communal House Complex

For those who want more than a fleeting visit to Quan Lan Island, there are many small family-run hotels and homestays at reasonable prices, and you may even be able to hire a boat to take you around the Island’s coastline.

If you’re more of a landlubber you can hire a motorbike to explore the Island, visit the local markets and old temples.

When visiting Quan Lan, make sure to bring water bottles as there is not a lot of fresh water available on the Island.

Quan Lan Island: The Ultimate Guide
Above: Quan Lan Island

Though Quan Lan has four seasons: 

  • February to April is spring 
  • May to July is summer 
  • August to October is autumn 
  • November to January is winter

There are still rainy and dry seasons, which you should keep in mind when deciding when to visit.

Quan Lan’s rainy season is from May to September, while the dry season runs from November to March.

Every season has its upsides and downsides, but the consensus is that the best months to visit are March, April, September and October.

However, if you enjoy the summer heat, June to August is the best time to go.

Be mindful of the fact that the weather can be temperamental and torrential downpours and thunderstorms are common during the summer.

If you’re more comfortable in milder weather, October to March is a better time to go.

For those traveling on a budget or wanting to avoid the crowds, the best time to go is during the off-peak season which runs from June to August.

It is generally recommended to avoid visiting Quan Lan in July and August due to the frequent thunderstorms.

There’s a very real chance that a tour might be cancelled due to the weather in these months.

Above: Quan Lan Island

If you’re traveling to Quan Lan from Hanoi, you can catch a bus from the My Dinh bus station.

The bus will take you to Cai Rong (Van Don) port.

It takes about 4 hours and the price of one ticket is around 150.000 VND ($7 USD).

Once there you can take a boat to the island.

It takes about an hour to get to the island from Van Don port.

You can take a small wooden boat which will take about two hours.

The price of a ticket is around 60.000 VND (roughly $3 USD).

The boat leaves every day at 7 a.m. and 11 a.m.

Places to visit in Quan Lan Island, The best time to visit Quan Lan Island
Above: Quan Lan Island

There are many beaches on Quan Lan Island.

Located about 34 miles (55 kilometers) from Halong City, in Bai Tu Long Bay, on the island of Quan Lan, travellers can find the unspoiled splendor of Quan Lan Beach.

The beach stretches for some miles and consists of fine white sand.

The ocean is deep blue and a beautiful green pine forest serves as a backdrop to the beach.

These contrasting colors add to the appeal of Quan Lan Beach.

Its serenity and relaxing atmosphere all contribute to the charm of the Beach.

The island is very quiet and has eight small and sparsely populated towns on it.

The copious amounts of sand that are found on the Island and its beaches have given way to local glass making.

Besides the beautiful beaches, the Island has a lot of other things to offer.

It has a rich history which goes back hundreds of years.

Places to visit in Quan Lan Island, The best time to visit Quan Lan Island
Above: Quan Lan Island

Minh Chau Beach is considered by many to be one of the most splendid beaches of Northern Vietnam.

Minh Chau is about 9 miles (15 kilometers) away from Quan Lan Beach.

Thousands of locals travel to this Beach every year to shoot some wedding pictures or simply enjoy their honeymoon.

One of the Beach’s most redeeming features is the smooth sand which gives a very satisfying sensation when walking on it.

It is said that the Beach is so beautiful that locals compare the Beach to Snow White.

Various activities can be enjoyed on the beach, such as camping or snorkeling.

At night, just lie down and relax as your worries slip away under the moonlight.

Minh Chau Beach - HaLong Bay Beachs - HaLong Bay HeritagesV'Spirit Cruises
Above: Minh Chau Beach

There are many options on the Island when it comes to accommodation.

From resorts to hostels and everything in between, you can find it on Quan Lan.

Always make sure to book in advance as it can be very busy on the Island.

Prices are higher during weekends and holidays as many people go to Quan Lan Island as a weekend trip from Hanoi.

The prices during high season (mid April – mid September) can be as high as double low season rates.

The accommodation in Minh Chau and Son Hau tend to be more expensive as they are walkable to the nicer beaches.

The lodging and food is generally cheaper in Quan Lan Village.

Not much English is spoken although most people are happy to write down prices for you on paper or using their cell phone.

Electricity is only on from 10:00 to14:00 and 18:00 to 23:00 by generator with some of the larger hotels and resorts having their own personal generators but controlling the hours air conditioning can be used.

Discover Peaceful Quan Lan Island in Halong Bay - Vietnam
Above: Quan Lan Island

Food can be more expensive than the mainland.

The cheapest food is generally found in smaller family run guesthouses.

During the week food can be hard to come by and visitors should get used to variations of things made with instant ramen noodles.

Staying at resorts and guesthouses out of town usually involves informing the staff of future meals and some heavy bargaining and negotiation for high prices.

Food in Quan Lan village can be found for around 25,000 – 50,000 dong for a noodle, rice noodle or congee (rice soup) dish.

Rice and noodle dishes later in the day can be found for 25,000 – 80,000 dong.

Seafood dishes abound in town and can be found for a wide range of 60,000 – 150,000 dong.

Quan Lan Island
Above: Quan Lan Island

Food on Minh Chau is more expensive and can get into the 100,000 – 200,000 dong range.

There is Western, particularly French, food available at Le Pont Hotel.

Le Pont Minh Chau Hotel - Hotel in Ha Long - Easy Online Booking
Above: Hotel Le Pont

Coffee is the strong and bitter Vietnamese variety served black or with condensed milk and can be found for 15,000 – 40,000 dong.

Vietnamese Coffee (Cafe Sua Nong) - Delightful Plate

Beer can be found at places labeled “Bia Hoi” for around 10,000 dong for draft beers and 15,000 – 30,000 for cold cans.

Bia hoi: World's cheapest draft beer? | CNN Travel

Cold drinks are hard to find as electricity is not constant.

Ice cream in smaller stores have the consistency of melted and refrozen treats.

Most menus do not have prices and it would be wise to ask before ordering.

Vietnamese menus are generally more extensive than the one- to two-page English menus.

Wandering around town at off hours may also mean that staff are napping or off site and inquiring with neighbors is the fastest way to see if anything is available.

Quan Lan island photos: Best pictures,images,photo shots 2020
Above: Quan Lan Island

You can eat fresh seafood on Quan Lan Island but for the more adventurous traveller the Island offers some interesting and special delicacies.

Quan Lan island travel guide (Updated 2020) | Hynam Travel

Think of peanut worms for instance:

Peanut worms are thick worms that are found in the sand and are famous for their rich and tasty meat.

They can be enjoyed either fresh or dried.

When eaten fresh you can fry them in oil so that they become nice and crispy.

Expect to pay around 400.000 VND to 450.000 VND (around $18 to $20 USD) for 1 kilo (2 pounds) of peanut worms.

A Saigon dish that worms its way into your heart - VnExpress International

Another delicacy is a special crab that is referred to as ‘Cruel’.

It is said that Cruel is not as sweet as regular crab but that it is better tasting than regular crab.

The body is very spongy and doesn’t have a lot of meat on it.

The average price for 1 kilo (around 2 pounds) of cruel is roughly 300.000 VND ($13 USD).

Vietnamese crab with tamarind sauce – Chica Andaluza

There are a few thousand residents and an influx of local tourists from Hanoi on weekends and holidays.

The Island is pretty sandy and has little in the way of forest, unlike others nearby such as Ban Sen.

There are ports at the northern and southern tips of the island.

It is a less developed and less touristy alternative to the more popular Cat Ba Island.

Quan Lan Island – A Wonder In Quang Ninh, Vietnam For Tourists
Above: Quan Lan Island

There are two larger villages on the island with some scattered houses and guesthouses on the roads in between.

Minh Chau village is in the north and has a strip of hotels, guesthouses and cabanas along the white sand beach.

Quan Lan village is in the center of the island with a street of guesthouses, restaurants, and karaoke venues.

The Son Hau beach area has a few resorts and guesthouses near its white sand beach.

The beaches of Minh Chau and Son Hau have been claimed to be some of the best in northern Vietnam, if not all of Vietnam, by locals and foreigners.

QUAN LAN Island (Quang Ninh) → Travel Guide + Tips | Northern Vietnam

Transport is pretty limited:

There’s really nothing on the road after sundown.

The Island is about 15 km and getting around on two wheels on your own is fairly easy.

Hiring a local to drive you somewhere can be an expensive proposition compared to metered taxis elsewhere but you do travel in a xe om (tuk tuk) that is less common to see in bigger cities in Vietnam.

Prices are given per vehicle so it is cheaper if you travel with groups.

A ride to get halfway up the island costs foreigners 100,000 – 150,000 dong.

From Minh Chau port or beach to Quan Lan village, almost the entire way across the island, is 250,000 dong.

It is best to organize early morning rides to the port with a guesthouse or hotel the evening before.

Kinh nghiệm du lịch đảo Quan Lạn | Hướng dẫn du lịch | Cat Ba Monkey Island  Resort
Above: Xe om, Quan Lan Island

There are a few buses that cost 10,000 dong that only run on weekends.

Bicycles can be rented from hotels or guesthouses for 50,000 – 70,000 dong of varying quality.

Motorbikes can be rented for 100,000 – 150,000 dong.

Petrol can be found at the corner stores at the intersection in Quan Lan village for around 40,000 – 50,000 dong.

Look for the large water bottles full of Ecto Cooler looking neon green liquid.

The roads are generally in decent condition but still have potholes, are often covered in sand, and have construction cars careening across them.

There would appear to be little vehicle crime as locks are not given with rentals.

Halfway down the Island, the western side features an industrial port at the tip of a very long breakwater that dissects an expansive tidal mangrove flat.

On the eastern side of the island directly east of the breakwater is a fantastic beach, which can be reached either by trudging across undeveloped dunes and tidal waters, or heading south slightly then following the road down to the single building on the beach, billing itself as a hotel.

There are a few temples scattered across the Island.

Above: Quan Lan Island

Walk about and explore, or swim.

Don’t expect much, except scenery, and you’ll have a good time.

Visit Minh Chau (northern) or Son Hau (central/eastern) beaches with beautiful water and soft white sand.

Minh Chau beach has cabanas lining the beach with rentable hammocks, loungers, and chairs.

There are inner tubes and volleyball nets for rent as well.

Top 3 pristine beaches in Quan Lan island - TNK Travel
Above: Quan Lan Island

There are no ATMs on the Island.

A few small shops scattered in the villages carry the straw, coolie and safari hats you can see locals wearing as well as some clothing.

There is a fish market that is open from 05:30 to 06:30 and again from14:30 to 15:30.

Quan Lan Island Tour 3 days| Off the tourist trail | Hynam Tours

There are multiple stores on the island selling SIM cards.

All mobile carriers have cell and data service on the Island.

WiFi Internet is available at many of the restaurants and cafes at the older and bigger hotels.

QUAN CAT BA RESTAURANT - Menu, Prices & Restaurant Reviews - Tripadvisor

Cai Rong is a large island that is well inhabited, little visited by tourists and connected by road to the mainland near Cửa Ông.

The town is walkable.

There’s a climbable mountain near the port with some pagodas.

Either hang around the port and watch the local fisherpeople do their thing, or get a boat and see some of the fantastic ocean karst topography of the Halong Bay region, smug in the knowledge that you are avoiding the five-hour long tourist hard-sell that production lines of clueless tourists are going through just an hour away to the southwest.

The most popular destination is Quan Lan Island.

CAI RONG TOWN, VAN DON ISLAND - HALONG BAY VIETNAM
Above: Cai Rong

There are two types of ferries available: long passenger speedboats with near-exclusively internal seating, and slower ferries that carry both small amounts of cargo and supplies along with passengers and have roof and outdoor areas.

The slower ferries are not necessarily much cheaper, but are far more interesting if you have the time and the weather is bearable.

The basic route is around the top of Ban Sen Island, south along Cao Lo Island to Quan Lạn Island.

The main port of Quan Lạn is at the northernmost tip of the island, and is also the first one you reach (an hour by fast boat, around two and a half by slow boat).

A second port of some small-scale industrial purpose lies about halfway down the island on the western side, though the ferry may first visit some minor points of habitation (where there are no roads nor shops nor hotels at any of them) on the opposite Ban Sen Island before kicking you off here.

Count on two and a half hours if you get off here.

Halong Bay boat Tour 4 hours from Halong city 2021

There’s a market near the middle of town, though it’s much smaller than that in nearby Cua Ong.

A few eateries exist through the town and near the port with standard Vietnamese fare.

A decent range of hotels exist near the port, including one very modern hotel that will be immediately apparent.

Smaller hotels are around 200,000 ₫ong per day, if you want to spend a half day (e.g., 5 hours waiting for a boat) then you might be able to convince them to give you a discount.

The Zebra-striped Cafe, near the ‘T‘ intersection is hard to spot.

It is on the main road, not the road to the port. 

It is possibly the only place in town with WiFi, so if you’re headed to the islands without a mobile phone then this is the last place you’re going to get online for awhile. 

Cheap.

02 Jours - Baie de Van Don et Ile de Quan Lan hors des sentiers battus
Above: Quan Lan Port

Halong Bay’s scenic beauty has become renowned throughout the world, causing thousands of tourists to visit the Bay every single year. 

But these tourists were not the first people to visit.

Halong tango7174.jpg
Above: Halong Bay

Dating back thousands of years, Halong Bay has been populated by small local communities living on floating villages tucked away in between the karst, sunken mountains.

Originally built as a place for returning fishermen to sell their fresh catch from the night before, the Halong Bay floating villages became residential quite quickly.

But it didn’t stop there:

People lived, ate, slept, worked, partied, and even went to school on these tiny, self-sufficient floating villages.

Each village is a completely self-contained society, in perfect harmony with the land and sea, and surviving everyday trials and tribulations by working together.

Now:

These are resilient people, unfettered by modern day problems, living out lives that are little changed by the passage of time.

The villages have houses, shops, schools and even police stations.

Their boats and houseboats are tethered together to provide safety and stability when tested by the elements.

Sure, at one point the Halong Bay floating villages were the most unique and close-knit communities you’d ever imagine.

The Floating Villages of Halong Bay – Asia Tour Advisor

But then something changed:

A couple of years ago, the government sent out a directive that would force the residents to move inland and leave their floating homes behind.

At first, the people in the village were indignant, refusing to leave behind the homes- the community that they had spent generations to build.

But the government’s standpoint was firm:

The people’s quality of life, and particularly the children’s access to education would improve vastly if they moved inland.

Pollution and environmental protection was also a big factor.

The directive was final.

Luon Cave which is a beautiful spot for kayaking is also entrance gate to Vung Vieng floating village Halong Bay

Now, the Halong Bay floating villages are preserved intact, just the way they were when the residents still lived here full time.

Although people do not now live here full time, the locals do still carry out a lot of activities and work tasks here, such as fishing, net weaving, and pearl processing.

Locals of these villages never go inland and they're proud of this place Halong Bay

Visiting the Halong Bay fishing villages is one of the top rated activities in the region, which tourists enjoy a lot thanks to the chance to get a look at Halong’s deep-rooted culture up close, and learn about the people who once lived here.

The people who lived in the four villages only number about 1,600.

seafoods on boat Halong Bay

The Soi Nhu people arrived around 20,000 years ago and survived until approximately 7000 BCE.  

Next came the Cai Beo people, who ruled the roost for about 2,000 years.

Then, in 5000 BCE, the Halong people’s culture took hold and held sway for about 1,500 years.

5 Halong Bay fishing villages you must see

Today, there are four main villages in Halong Bay, and this is their story:

Originally two fishing villages were formed at the start of the 19th century, one called Giang Vong and the other Truc Vong.

But they didn’t always live on the sea:

Originally land dwellers, the people made their homes on boats, maintaining their ancestral shrines on the mainland.

When they needed to discuss local politics, they simply dropped anchor and held them.

Due to rising waters, the people made homes from boats, though they maintained an ancestral shrine on the mainland.

Between 1946 and 1954, during the war against the French, these people scattered throughout the Bay, finally returning to build their new floating villages when the area eventually stabilised.

Life in floating village in Halong Bay -V'Spirit Cruises

Today it’s like this:

The descendants of these villagers are now the people who – until recently – inhabited the four remaining villages: Cua Van, Vung Vieng, Cong Dam, and Ba Hang, about 400 households totaling approximately 1.000 people.

The fishermen live on boats and floating wooden houses in the core zone of Halong Bay, which is dozens of kilometers away from the mainland.

They have no home or land ownership and their main livelihood is fishing and aquaculture.

Halong Bay, Floating Fishing Village & Thien Cung Cave | Hauwito Huang

The environment is the biggest challenge to the fishermen’s lifestyle.

Sea storms and rising tides can endanger their homes and they are dependent on a fish supply that has decreased in recent years.

The constant flow of tourists and new industry also adds new challenges for the fishing villages.

What's the Story Behind Halong Bay's Floating Villages? - Halong Hub

Cua Van

You will find Cua Van in Hung Thang Commune, just 20 km from the tourist boat wharf at Halong City; it can be accessed either from here or from Cat Ba Island.

The village lies in amidst calm waters surrounded by mountains.

Listed as one of the finest examples of ancient villages by a top travel site, today there are about 200 boats there.

Cua Van is the largest fishing village.

At present, Cua Van fishing village is inhabited by 176 families, with over 750 inhabitants, most of whom live mainly on fishing.

This fishing village is located in a calm sea wave on Halong Bay and surrounded by rocky mountains – an ideal location for anchoring vessels.

Immerse yourself in the tranquil, peaceful and charming space as you learn about the cultural life of the hospitable fishermen.

You will be immediately fascinated by the beauty of the blue wooden fishing boats, the brown bamboo coracles parked in front of each house, the rafters tied together bobbing on the waves.

Meet the innocent and friendly fishermen, the dark-skinned children sailing boats on the sea, the housewives washing clothes on the rafts.

When night falls in Cua Van fishing village, you will have a chance to take a boat tour around the village with the fishermen, experience dragging nets, fishing night squid, enjoying the shimmering scenery of Halong Bay at night.

It is most exciting when you catch the fish, shrimps, squids and put them into baskets then reap the fruit of your labours.

On special occasions at Cua Van, such as village festivals or weddings, there are art performances on the boats, with teaser-singing and traditional operetta (a form of performance with many typical folk songs of Halong Bay).

Nearby you can visit Tien Ong Cave, the Ba Ham lLke area, climb limestone mountains, and fish on Halong Bay with the fishermen.

Enjoying the picturesque scenery of Halong Bay and experiencing life as a fisherman are so extremely attractive that you cannot have anywhere else.

Many of the villagers hand-make beautiful crafts that they will sell from their boats.

The people often sing folk songs (hat gheo) that carry across the water, from love song duets to wedding odes, songs meant to be sung by fishermen on the sea.

Cua Van floating village Halong Bay
Above: Cua Van fishing village, Halong Bay

Vung Vieng

Vung Vieng village is located in the heart of Bai Tu Long Bay, and is about 40 km from Halong City.

Thanks to its picturesque setting, this is a favourite stop-over for cruise boats.

While the residents used to earn their wage through fishing and pearl farming, nowadays their income is mainly supplemented by tourism.

Even though Vung Vieng does not have as much population as Cua Van, it is still one of the fishing villages that you should pay a visit when coming to Halong Bay.

A long time ago, Vung Vieng used to be on the trading way of Vietnamese and Chinese.

When the boats of the merchants went through this village at lunchtime, the sea breeze blew off the lids of their pots.

In order to reach Vung Vieng, you will need to go on the small bamboo craft, the main vehicles of the villagers there.

On the way to this floating village, you will go through Cao Cave, a famous cross-water cave of Bai Tu Long Bay.

This cave is considered as a natural gate of Vung Vieng and marks a stopover for tourists on Halong Bay.

Vung Vieng fishing village turns up in front of your eyes as a small and simple village.

There are only about 50 families with 300 people living in this village, one-third of which are children.

The image of Vung Vieng floating village is adorned with crafts appearing as vague apparitions, fishing boats leaning against mountains, and water splashing the sides of the towering limestone islets.

The deeper you enter the village, the more open the space is.

Similar to other fishing villages in Halong Bay, Vung Vieng is a main venue for growing seafood, which provides the fare of the restaurants of Halong Bay and other provinces in North Vietnam.

Coming to this village, you will have a chance to enjoy for yourself the mouth-watering dishes made of the fresh seafood grown in the local water.

No one can deny that this is a memorable experience when visiting Halong Bay.

Vung Vieng is quite close to the Cua Ong – Hon Gai – Cam Pha coal mines and the old Van Don port trade and Tra Co Beach.

From this floating village, you can take a visit to Devil Face Island, the Seven Wells area, the primeval forests of Tra Ban and Van Don Island, and many other small caves in Halong Bay.

From Vung Vieng, it takes a couple of hours bbyoat to reach Quan lan Island, with its temple famous for its architecture.

Here, many archaeological remains were found proving the golden age of the commercial port of Van Don.

Vung Vieng floating village Halong Bay
Above: Vung Vieng fishing village, Halong Bay

Cong Dam

Known for its mountains, reefs, and underwater lakes, this is one of the smallest and oldest villages in the bay.

Thanks to its beautiful beaches, it is also a favoured stop-off point for cruise boats.

Cong Dam is an area with many mysterious bays surrounded by volcanic mountains and the most unspoiled beaches on Bai Tu Long Bay.

Since its location far away from the mainland, it still preserves all the primitive beauty of the Bay as well as a clean water environment.

Coming to Cong Dam, you may be overwhelmed by the majestic, poetic, natural beauty.

This is an outdoor geological museum that has been preserved for 340 million years with a prominent stone park.

This area is called a “stacking park” as there are dozens of rocky islands with a horizontal structure, different from the vertical stones in Thien Cung and Dau Go caves.

Each mountain here consists of hundreds of thousands stones stacked directly on top of each other.

Mother Nature has lovingly created a meticulous and incredible wonder.

Although Cong Dam is a small ancient village with only about 120 inhabitants, it still retains most intact its traditional fishing culture.

Here too you can fish with the fishermen, be delighted in chatting and listening to them share happy and sad memories of the ups and downs of their lives, as you sit on a bamboo boat steered by a lovely girl between the beautiful small houses and the soaring mountains.

Although it is a quiet life, the people here have a certain vitality that can only come from living so close to the rolling tides.

The people are tough, and their families have lived in the Bay for generations.

They change with the ocean and adapt to the tide.

Located separately from life on shore and the usual tourist routes, the landscape of Cong Dam retains a wild appearance and a fresh air.

This fishing village is a great place for you to explore and admire the coral reefs, underwater caves and lakes of the limestone mountains.

In addition, this place also has many natural beaches with crystal-clear water, white sandy beaches and a tranquil atmosphere.

Cong Dam floating village Halong Bay
Above: Cong Dam fishing village, Halong Bay

Ba Hang

Home to 50 families, Ba Hang is a small village that lies in a peaceful strip of water between two karst formations.

Again, while it used to be a fishing village, now the people who work here are mainly serving the tourism industry.

The same as Vung Vieng, Ba Hang does not occupy a wide swathe of water.

In this fishing village, there are only about 50 households mainly engaged in fishing.

However, recently, due to the development of tourism in floating villages in Halong Bay, many families have also gradually turned to tourism in order to improve the economy of their families.

Visiting Halong Bay in general and Ba Hang fishing village in particular, you will surely be extremely surprised to witness a fishing village with such a simple life.

The members of a family in this fishing village live only in houses that are only about 5 to 10 square meters wide with equipment and tools for very simple living.

In contrast with this simple life, you can still catch the optimistic and friendly smiles of Ba Hang fishing villagers when visiting this place.

Ba Hang fishing village is located close to one of the most beautiful caves in the tourist area of ​​Halong – Thien Cung Cave.

Though it is only small and simple, the beautiful fishing village of Ba Hang attracts a lot of tourists who come to visit Halong Bay.

Ba Hang fishing attracts tourists not only by the peaceful atmosphere here but also by the charming mountain scenery.

In this village, you will have a chance to experience the idyllic life of the fishermen, who have a strong attachment to the fishing boats all year round.

When night falls, you can join the fishermen dropping nets and catching fish by yourself.

You can also visit the surrounding islands and explore more of the beauty of Halong Bay.

Ba Hang Floating Fishing Village - Shore Excursions Asia
Above: Ba Hang fishing village, Halong Bay

Traditionally, each boat in the floating village is a separate household, though the raft or boat always serves more than one function. It is a home, a means of transport, and a source of income.

Thousands of visitors see the villages while traveling in Hạlong Bay.

The distinctive traditional lifestyle of the villagers is a unique component of Vietnamese identity.

The residents are inextricably linked to their setting, forming an integrated cultural landscape and living tradition.

TOUCHING INDOCHINA - VIETNAM TRAVEL: Floating villages on Halong bay,  Vietnam

An influx of tourists and associated development has altered this place and with it the social and physical context of these people.

Changes in economic activities and in the ecosystem on which the villages thrive directly affect their way of life. 

Floating Village, Halong Bay | Here's an HDR of a portion of… | Flickr

The fisherman of these floating villages take pride in their roles as messengers, combatants during conflict, and transporters.

The people of the village operate as a close-knit family, and children as young as 5 are experts at casting nets.

Living away from the mainland, however, has always been a struggle, notably in getting the children educated.

3 fishing villages to visit in Halong

Today, the greatest challenges to life in the fishing villages are related to the environment, especially climate change, as increasingly violent storms kill fish or damage equipment.

Pollution is also a concern, including byproducts of construction work and industrial runoff enter the water, trash from locals and less conscious tourists, and from the villagers themselves, who have no toilets.

The sustainability of the current way of life of the villagers is also a cause for concern.

People are aware that the steady supply of fish and shellfish will not last forever, and there is also a need for the communities to plan out what changes they will need to adapt to rising seawater and the effects of tourism in the area.

Floating fishing village, Halong Bay, Vietnam - StoryV Travel & Lifestyle

Living in the Ha Long Bay World Heritage site incorporates many cultural values that are both tangible and intangible, and protecting these assets is essential to protecting these people.

Due to the fact that these tight-knit and well-established communities live in such a fragile ecosystem, their lives are very vulnerable to the slightest changes.

These shifts can centre on economic changes, such as a loss of tourism income or changes in the demand for their products, or even geological changes, like sea-level rises.

Cultural centres, such as the one in Cua Van, are helpful for addressing potential changes to the villages.

Other centres like this would be helpful as a venue for meetings on changing techniques to better protect the environment and prevent degradation of the Bay.

The impact of the lack of education systems and access to vital information also constrains these efforts, and the contemplative nature of the fisherman may also put pressure on cooperation.

Community engagement, involving both men and women, is essential to enforcing different protocols that various clubs and groups create to meet the needs of the community.

A Floating Fishing Village in Ha Long Bay - Hanoi For 91 Days

Heidi sits in the back of a stuffy tourist van bound for Halong Bay, barreling down the middle of a barely passable, pothole-filled road just east of Hanoi.

She thought a cruise among the Bay’s countless limestone karsts would be nice and relaxing.

Which it might be, if she survives the shuttle bus ride from Hell.

The driver is screaming at someone on his cell phone as he swerves back and forth across the road trying to dodge the oncoming traffic, the potholes, and random bicycles, pushcarts, tuktuks, and water buffalo.

The woman in front of her has just unwrapped a lox-and-onion sandwich, and the smell of it blends with the heavy Hanoi smog.

Everyone is turning a bit green and a whiter shade of pale.

Ah, the joys of international travel!

How to Get to Halong Bay, Bai Tu Long and Lan Ha Bay? - Halong Hub

Now this is better.

She is at the dock aboard a 36-cabin boat, perhaps a cocktail in hand, waiting to cast off.

The bayscape is more dramatic than she had expected, with thousands of jagged stone islands jutting from the glass-smooth waters.

Her guidebook informed her that Haong literally means “descending dragon bay” named for the legend that the countless karsts and islands were created by the flailings of a family of dragons sent by the gods to defend a young Vietnam from invading hoards.

The cruise itinerary takes the tourists to Cua Van, one of the four floating fishing villages that are listed on the 2012 World Monuments Watch.

4 Night Best Of Halong Bay Cruise | Royal Caribbean Cruises
Above: Halong Bay

(In 2002, 2006, 2009 and 2011 there were fatal accidents due to the poor safety standards of the outdated wooden ships. 

In 2006, 13 people died in a strong storm, several ships overturned – something similar happened in 2002.

In 2009, two British and one French tourists, as well as the local guide, died. 

On 17 February 2011, eleven tourists from the UK, Australia, France, Japan, the US, Russia, Sweden and Switzerland, as well as their Vietnamese guide, died when their tour boat sank.

Another accident occurred on 8 May 2011, when a Hại Long Co Ltd excursion boat with 28 French tourists on board capsized off the island of Do Cạn . 

However, all boat occupants could be saved.)

Sleeping tourists killed on Vietnam's Ha Long Bay | TheSpec.com

Heidi is, of course, a bit ambivalent about visiting a village at all, because one of the reasons the fishing villages are listed in the first place is the threat that encroaching tourism poses to the distinctive traditional lifestyle of the villagers.

Although tourism may well threaten traditional ways of life, the villagers seem to have adapted to it well, as the locals have established that only they are allowed to give tours of the village, and have struck what are apparently rather lucrative deals with the tour operators.

THE BEAUTY OF FLOATING VILLAGE IN HALONG BAY | Balloon Halong Bay

Above: Halong Bay

Four at a time, the tourists board small rowboats piloted by village women.

The boats are “basket boats” vessels unique to coastal Vietnam that are woven of split bamboo then coated with tar as waterproofing.

The oarsman doesn’t seem to speak much English – and certainly not a syllable of Swiss German – (assuredly more than the Vietnamese Heidi has begun to speak), but happily he points out the sights as they row up one of the “streets.”

Basket boat ride at Hoi An - Picture of Indochina Pioneer, Hanoi -  Tripadvisor

The houses are modest, single-story affairs with one or two rooms and usually a wide front porch.

They float atop pontoons of either plastic barrels or blocks of styrofoam and are anchored to pilings, then lashed together to form somewhat regular “blocks”.

There are similar floating buildings that serve various municipal functions.

They pass one that is clearly a school.

5 Halong Bay fishing villages you must see

How normal it all seems!

Everyone goes about the same daily routines you would see in any small town: tending their children, preparing meals, mending fishing nets, and sometimes just talking to their friends on cell phones, which everyone seems to have.

The Floating Villages of Halong Bay – Asia Tour Advisor

Being fishing villages, there are obviously boats everywhere.

Many are “squidders”, vessels outfitted with large halogen lights that attract the cephalopods while night-fishing.

There are also extensive floating aquaculture fields, some with subsurface netting that contain farmed fish, while others support weighted baskets where mussels, clams, and pearl oysters are cultivated.

At one point the passengers pass what is obviously the village version of a convenience store:

A large rowboat laden with fruits and vegetables, dried fish and noodles, and a vast selection of condiments, snacks, and beer.

And, oddly, dogs are everywhere, scampering on the floating walkways that stretch between the houses.

Cua Van Floating Village, Ha Long Bay | Ticket Price | Timings | Address:  TripHobo

Step on board a flat-bottomed sampan and glide around the homes as they bob across the Bay.

Taste seafood freshly pulled from the ocean, cooked in front of you.

The sensual aromas of fresh fish, salt and spice fill the senses.

Walk along the docks where village children laugh and dive into the ocean that is their home, their playground.

Watch a lone fisherman cast his net in the summer sun.

Listen to the songs and stories from the local women as they sell their wares.

Cua Van Fishing Village Halong Bay | Cua Van Fishing Village Tour Hanoi

You have slipped back to a simpler time with a lively people who have tied their souls to the sea.

This is what you came for.

And it is this search that both bolsters and threatens the Bay, that both bolsters and threatens the visitor.

Cua Van Floating Village - Paradise Elegance Cruises

The Paradise Syndrome, while not officially recognized by psychologists as a mental condition, is a term used by some to refer to a condition in which a person suffers a feeling of dissatisfaction despite having achieved all their dreams.

It is often applied to individuals of such great wealth and success that they feel they no longer have anything left in life to accomplish.

It is common with people who assign great value to their career and, although they have achieved much, do not feel satisfied.

What is Paradise Syndrome and Why Should We Be Aware Of It? | by Sandra  Michelle | Mind Cafe | Medium

Have you ever stood and stared at it, marveled at its beauty, its genius?

Billions of people just living out their lives, oblivious.

Did you know that the first Matrix was designed to be a perfect human world?

Where none suffered?

Where everyone would be happy?

It was a disaster.

No one would accept the program.

Entire crops (of harvested humans) were lost.

Some believed that we lacked the programming language to describe your perfect world.

But I believe that as a species, human beings define their reality through misery and suffering.

The perfect world was a dream that your primitive cerebrum kept trying to wake up from.

Which is why the Matrix was redesigned to this, the peak of your civilization.

Agent Smith, The Matrix (1999)

Agent Smith (The Matrix series character).jpg
Above: Agent Smith (Hugo Weaving), The Matrix franchise

I recall Martin Amis’ Night Train:

Jennifer Rockwell was a young woman who seemingly had everything: beauty, intelligence, health, a devoted lover and a stimulating career.

Hoolihan is a female detective who is charged with the task of finding the motivation for Jennifer Rockwell’s suicide.

Jennifer, a beautiful astrophysicist with a seemingly perfect life, seems to have had no reason to kill herself.

Hoolihan is a recovering alcoholic and former homicide detective who lives with an obese man named Tobe in an unnamed American city.

She had been sexually abused as a child, revolted violently against the abuse at the age of ten, and then pursued a number of affairs with abusive or unworthy men.

Despite her disadvantages, she became a successful detective before her illness forced her to accept less demanding work seizing assets from criminals. 

Her former boss, mentor and personal friend Tom Rockwell, asks her to investigate the apparent suicide of his daughter Jennifer.

She discovers that Jennifer was taking lithium, met a philandering salesman in the bar of a local hotel, and made uncharacteristic mistakes at work shortly before her death.

Hoolihan deduces that these factors are merely “blinds” – clues deliberately planted by Jennifer for the benefit of an investigation at the behest of her father.

Hoolihan concludes that these blinds are meant either to provide the less astute investigator with a sense of “closure“, rather than indicating a greater bleakness, or nihilism.

After breaking down while attempting to communicate her findings to Rockwell – who immediately expresses his concern – Hoolihan heads for the nearest bar, knowing that the alcohol will kill her.

NightTrain.jpg

The Paradise Syndrome may also refer to an episode of Star Trek (TOS), “The Paradise Syndrome“, which in this instance, deals with being overworked and needing a break, rather than a feeling of dissatisfaction related to achieving one’s dreams.

58 The Paradise Syndrome | TrekkerScrapbook

It has always astonished me that those with little often seem happier than those with much.

Don't judge people by appearances | Wisdom Quotes 4 u | Dont judge people,  Dont judge people quotes, Appearance quotes

It has always saddened me that so many of us define ourselves by the work we do rather than the people we are or could be.

We Are More Than What We Do for Work

There are many ordinary men and women who are self-taught who devote their free time to serious reading and discussion.

Their limitations stem more from a lack of method or a lack of opportunity than a lack of intelligence or ambition.

Independent Scholar's Handbook: How to Turn Your Interest in Any Subject  into Expertise: Gross, Ronald: 9780898155211: Amazon.com: Books

I have often asked myself why travellers travel.

Some travel merely because they need a break.

Others hope to find themselves, outside of themselves, in unfamiliar territory.

Others get out beyond themselves to discover something important or beautiful or powerful or fascinating about the world.

The Blue Marble photograph of Earth, taken by the Apollo 17 mission. The Arabian peninsula, Africa and Madagascar lie in the upper half of the disc, whereas Antarctica is at the bottom.

I believe that self-fulfillment consists of finding and filling a “hole in the world“, moving beyond infatuation with the self to a more mature engagement with the outside world.

Extreme Hole Hearted.jpg

I seek a first-hand, direct experience with the universe, an experience that will leave me feeling exhilarated with an energy that overflows into my work, into my writing, part of my relationships, part of the pattern that is the elegance and eloquence of life.

I came to Turkey to do a job, but my motivation for being here is not simply to make a living, but to know, to understand and to communicate.

Flag of Turkey
Above: Flag of Turkey

I want to be loved for my initiative.

I want to embark on a wide ocean, to start a harvest on rocky ground, to imagine and explore new worlds, to do what I have not done before and to do what I have done before more skillfully than previously attempted.

A ship in harbor is safe, but that is not what ships are built for." - John  A. Shedd [2048x2887]: QuotesPorn

Though I have only known Heidi for a scant half-decade (if that) I struggle in trying to define which pigeonhole Heidi might fit.

I know it is a mistake to try and put “Baby” in a corner (Dirty Dancing reference), but the instinct to try and define the undefinable remains strong.

Dirty Dancing.jpg

The dangerous seduction of the hard lives of the Halong Bay fishing villagers is a sense that here are groups of individuals living their lives to the fullest, despite the limitations of those lives.

Within them is a quiet enthusiasm, an unspoken message that tells us how to live.

They do not seek to possess the world.

They simply seek to share their lives with others.

Cua Van Floating village

D.H. Lawrence described how, in industrial England, the men working in the coal mines took satisfaction and found comradeship in their work and were proud of being good providers.

Then schooling was introduced and boys, rather than working with their fathers, began going to school.

There they were taught by white-collared, stiff-necked teachers that their fathers’ world – the sweaty, difficult world of physical labour – was demeaning and that by applying themselves they (the young boys) could aspire to a clean, educated “higher” world.

That this “advancement” meant an adult life spent stooped at desks doing dreary clerical tasks was not questioned.

They were “bettering” themselves.

They were told that there was something virtuous in clean hands, in never exerting one’s body.

D. H. Lawrence, 1929
Above: David Herbert Lawrence (1885 – 1930)

Powerful symbols define men.

The necktie and the wedding band symbolize something very profound – a willingness to submit to the will of others, a willingness to go through meaningless motions rather than risk the wrath of the society that spawned us, a willingness to disregard your discomfort, a willingness to patiently put up with indignity and constraint to keep that job, to maintain that marriage, to earn love and respect ever elusive beyond our grasp.

Game Over Hochzeit JGA' Sticker | Spreadshirt

Rising in the class hierarchy does not make a man freer.

In fact, the reality is the reverse.

I'm just so busy!” becomes the new social status signal. | Nones Notes

The fisher folk of Halong Bay have given their bodies to their labour, but their souls are their own.

Cua Van Village Travel Guide - BestPrice Travel

White collar workers are expected to hand over their spirits as well.

The suits and the men who wear them are characterized by their lack of character, their lack of colour, their lack of individuality.

Richard Cory is to be pitied not envied.

When I awoke this morning exhausted from my rest

A demon dark and terrible was sitting on my chest.

He pinned me to the mattress and seized me by the head.

He pressed his knees against my heart and overturned the bed.

He dragged me to the mirror and showed me my disgrace.

Then took a razor in his claw and dragged it down my face.

Some faded rags he bound around my shoulders and my hips

And poured a cup of steaming muck between my faded lips.

And then he took those wilted lips and in his evil style

He paralyzed the corners up into a pleasant smile.

A masterpiece in wickedness, this last sadistic joke

He sends me out into the world a smiling sort of bloke.

The Boomtown Rats - I Don't Like Mondays - austriancharts.at

If you want a lover
I’ll do anything you ask me to
And if you want another kind of love
I’ll wear a mask for you
If you want a partner
Take my hand
Or if you want to strike me down in anger
Here I stand
I’m your man

If you want a boxer
I will step into the ring for you
And if you want a doctor
I’ll examine every inch of you
If you want a driver
Climb inside
Or if you want to take me for a ride
You know you can
I’m your man

Ah, the moon’s too bright
The chain’s too tight
The beast won’t go to sleep
I’ve been running through these promises to you
That I made and I could not keep
Ah but a man never got a woman back
Not by begging on his knees
Or I’d crawl to you baby
And I’d fall at your feet
And I’d howl at your beauty
Like a dog in heat
And I’d claw at your heart
And I’d tear at your sheet
I’d say please (Please)
I’m your man

And if you’ve got to sleep
A moment on the road
I will steer for you
And if you want to work the street alone
I’ll disappear for you
If you want a father for your child
Or only want to walk with me a while
Across the sand
I’m your man

If you want a lover
I’ll do anything that you ask me to
And if you want another kind of love
I’ll wear a mask for you.

Leonard Cohen, I’m Your Man

I'm Your Man - Leonard Cohen.jpg

The secret of Halong Bay isn’t the fact that work and relationships do harm, but that it is the nature of our work and our relationships that is our problem.

If you have a job or a relationship that lacks heart, it will kill you.

It is the lack of real purpose in a job or the lack of personal control in a relationship that are the main problems.

Leo Buscaglia quote: A life without passion is not living, it's merely  existing
Above: Leo Buscaglia (1924 – 1998)

The fisher folk of Halong Bay laugh as they work and sing.

Life is hard, damned hard, but it is rarely without laughter, without song, without purpose.

3 fishing villages to visit in Halong Bay

As cultures have evolved away from the forest and the coast and into the town and the city, we now do the work we are commanded to do in an ever-increasingly repetitive grind.

We have become “comfortably numb“.

We subjugate ourselves to survive.

We surrender ourselves to a life we don’t really love.

We live in the lap of luxury wondering why we feel unfulfilled.

We shouldn’t just tolerate our lives.

We should love our lives.

We should love life.

The purpose of life is to find what makes our lives worth living.

We either need to find a job we can believe in or find something to believe in about our jobs.

We need relationships that nurture our natures not subjugate us to the compromises of compliance.

Pink Floyd - Comfortably Numb (The Wall movie 1982)
Above: “Comfortably Numb” scene, The Wall (1982)

There is no pain, you are receding
A distant ship, smoke on the horizon
You are only coming through in waves
Your lips move, but I can’t hear what you’re saying
When I was a child, I caught a fleeting glimpse
Out of the corner of my eye
I turned to look, but it was gone
I cannot put my finger on it now
The child is grown, the dream is gone

Pink Floyd, Comfortably Numb

Pink Floyd The Wall.jpg

So, so you think you can tell
Heaven from Hell? Blue skies from pain?
Can you tell a green field from a cold steel rail?
A smile from a veil? Do you think you can tell?
Did they get you to trade your heroes for ghosts?
Hot ashes for trees? Hot air for a cool breeze?
Cold comfort for change? Did you exchange
A walk-on part in the war
For a lead role in a cage?

How I wish, how I wish you were here
We’re just two lost souls swimming in a fishbowl year after year
Running over the same old ground, what have we found?
The same old fears, wish you were here
.

Pink Floyd, Wish You Were Here

Wish You Were Here - Pink Floyd: Amazon.de: Musik

We need employment, we need relationships, wherein we feel we can contribute.

We need employment and relationships where we can hold our own.

We need to feel that our lives improve the lives of others.

We need to feel that we can rely on ourselves.

That our lives not only sustain us now, but for ourselves and others in the future.

That our lives enhance others.

Ideally, lives that do no harm to others.

That the work we do and the love we give, our innate abilities and talents, are so unique and powerful that our lives have a positive effect on the world.

We need lives that transform banal reality into beautiful possibility.

Satisfaction-us.jpg

It is my hope that as a woman Heidi believes that she can find happiness in herself, that she finds within herself a sense of pride and accomplishment in her life, that she uses the innate strength, intelligence and imagination that is potentially within everyone to not simply settle for the complacency of a relationship or the security of marriage, but instead actively seek a life that enhances the lives of others in her discovery of her innate abilities and talents.

The happiness of others is part of my vision of Paradise.

A Trip to Paradise, New Zealand | See the South Island NZ Travel Blog
Above: Paradise, New Zealand

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Martin Amis, Night Train / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Leo Buscaglia, Love / Leonard Cohen, “I’m Your Man” / Ronald Gross, The Independent Scholar’s Handbook / D.H. Lawrence, Sons and Lovers / Pink Floyd, “Comfortably Numb” and “Wish You Were Here” / Marcel Proust, Remembrance of Things Past / Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel, “Richard Cory” / Star Trek (TOS), “The Paradise Syndrome” / Hugo Weaver, The Matrix

Canada Slim and the Island of Life

Eskisehir, Turkey, Monday 7 July 2021

Yesterday evening, before the sun set on the summer day, Cem, my Wall Street English employer, and my Sunday co-workers – Rasool, Mustafa and Nuri – decided that the cool breezes and the temperate temperatures were as good an excuse as any for a night out with the boys.

The day had already proven to be interesting in a number of ways.

I had a student who felt that her accession to Unit 50 – the complete collection of Units in the WSE curriculum is 80 – made her immune from Advising (where our PTs – professional tutors – teach a student material he/she should have already mastered), but the nature of her language problem is at the heart of my difficulties with the Turkish language – a tendency to overuse the present continuous.

I passed her, but recommended Advising.

The next student (Unit 6) I also passed, also recommended Advising.

The third student (Unit 30) was far more problematic, being one of those students that cause a teacher’s heart to wrestle with his mind, where you know you should make the student repeat but the nature of the student’s personality causes the educator to feel mean for doing so.

Rasool, both my friend and foreman, often refers to my being too soft-hearted at times.

Of course, he is right.

I passed her (minimally) and recommended Advising.

I have taught English in one form or another, in a number of different institutions, in a number of different countries, since I was 20 (1985) – consecutively since 1998 – and it has been my experience that it is rarely the students that excel in English-language learning that I remember but rather I recall the reverse.

This latter student bothered me and was the thrust of my lunchtime discussions with Rasool and PT Mustafa.

They knew her character well and could only advise a sterner approach for dealing with her.

But sometimes the seeds of knowledge fall upon barren ground.

I have been greatly influenced – I might even go so far as to say I am haunted – by my colleague Shqipe’s recent successful completion of her CELTA (a Cambridge University English teaching certificate) training.

She had asked my advice as I had previously completed the same course and had obtained my CELTA certification.

Her reminders of the CELTA method – with its attention to detailed lesson planning and critical analysis – has resulted in her being more critical of WSE students, which in turn has caused me to re-evaluate my WSE approach towards the less-than-optimal students that come my way.

Perhaps I need to be cruel to be kind?

Above: Sample of a CELTA certificate

The afternoon began with a cancellation, followed by two Complimentary Classes, wherein the teacher does a review lesson of the materials a class level has completed.

Of the WSE methodology, I enjoy Complimentary Classes the most, for unlike Encounters and Social Clubs where the emphasis is on elicitation of language from the students, CCs allow a teacher the luxury of actually feeling like he is teaching.

Like Encounters, CCs follow a script that teachers are strongly encouraged to follow, but there are times when even the best-laid plans of a teacher run astray.

Such was the fate of today’s CCs.

Resulting interaction between they the students and I the teacher made getting through the syllabus less progressive than was intended.

That being said, the students produced language and appeared to be satisfied with the nature of the time they spent under my tutelage.

The resulting good feelings from these CCs made me open to Cem’s suggestion of joining him, Nuri (his right hand), Rasool and Mustafa for a drink at the nearby Museum Pub.

Eskişehir - Museum Kültür Sanat Pub

We speak of many things over drinks and fries.

I find myself smiling as many of the curious questions that the students of the afternoon CCs had asked me about myself and my homeland were echoed in the enquiries of my scholastic brothers-in-arms.

I am, after all, still the New Kid in Town.

Museum Pub

There’s talk on the street.
It sounds so familiar.
Great expectations, everybody’s watching you.
People you meet,
They all seem to know you.
Even your old friends treat you like you’re something new….

There’s talk on the street.
It’s there to remind you.
It doesn’t really matter which side you’re on.
You’re walking away,
And they’re talking behind you.
They will never forget you ’til somebody new comes along.

Eaglesnewkidintownsinglecover.jpg

We speak of Eskisehir and what is worth seeing here – the topic of discussion of my first CC of the day.

Above: Porsuk Bridge, Eskisehir

We talk of Odunpazari, the old Ottoman Quarter, formerly the firewood bazaar district, with its elegant, pastel-shaded traditional homes with their distinctive overhanging stories and wood-framed shutters, homes that stand on narrow stone lanes amongst mosques and other memorial mementoes of times past.

A quarter of museums and cafés, craftwork and vintage stalls, Odunpazari is home to the Kursunlu Külliyesi Complex, behind the Kursunlu Mosquem this sublime old-town medrese houses the Museum of Meerschaum, which pays homage to the region’s weird and wonderful white rock in its artistically crafted form.

Next to the medrese, the four-domed tabhane (guesthouse) may once have been a harem.

The vaulted imaret (almshouse) and the adjacent, domed asevi (kitchen) now house glassblowing and jewellery studios.

The dining hall, kitchen and alcove oven partially remain.

The Ottoman caravanserai, built after 1529, is a cultural centre used for weddings.

Above: Streets of Odunpazan (Ottoman Quarter), Eskisehir

On one side of the pub table sit the old dogs, Cem and I.

Across from us, the young pups, the single bachelors, Nuri, Mustafa and Nuri.

We tease them that our fate will be inevitably be their destiny.

Perhaps the caravanserai will host one of their weddings one day….

I tell them of my visits to the City Museum and the Museum of Republican History, to the Odunpazari Modern Museum (OMM) and the Wax Museum.

Eskisehir City Memory Museum

Museum of Independence, Eskişehir - Wikipedia
Above: Museum of Independence / Republican History, Eskisehir

Odunpazari Modern Museum von Kengo Kuma | Museen
Above: The OMM, Eskisehir

Above: Yilmaz Büyükersen Wax Museum

Cem tells me that the wax figures were made by a former president of the municipality and that one of our WSE students is a tour guide there.

Nuri tells me that he is not a fan of the OMM – too expensive to see too little on display – but I still, nonetheless, had enjoyed my visit there, if for no reason than the relaxation of Covid-19 restrictions had finally given me access to it.

Yılmaz Büyükerşen Wax Museum History,Opening Hours,Information,Locaiton,Map  Turkey

I am asked about what other places in Turkey have I visited.

I speak of Afyonkarahisar, Ankara, Bursa, Istanbul, Kütahya and Konya, of Iznik and Mudanya, of Canakkale, Gallipoli and Troy, since I came to Turkey to live and work on 1 March 2021.

A view from the Cumhuriyet Square and Utku Monument in Afyonkarahisar
Above: A view from Cumhuriyet Square and Utku Monument in Afyonkarahisar

Clockwise, from top: Söğütözü skyline, Anıtkabir, Gençlik Parkı, Kızılay Square, Kocatepe Mosque, Atakule
Above: Images of Ankara

Clockwise from top left: Grand Mosque, Maksem, Irgandı Bridge, Kozahan
Above: Images of Bursa

Kütahya view
Above: Kütahya

Right from the beginning: Mevlana Museum, Konya Selimiye Mosque, Alaaddin Hill, Ince Minaret Medrese, Meram Nature Park, Hacıveyiszade Mosque, Alaaddin Monument, Atatürk Museum and Taşköprü
Above: Images of Konya

Hagia Sophia of Nicaea, modern İznik.
Above: Hagia Sophia of Nicaea, Iznik

Above: Mudanya

Above: Çanakkale waterfront

Above: ANZAC landing at Gallipoli, April 1915

Above: Wooden Trojan Horse monument in the plaza before the modern gate to the ancient city of Troy

I speak of two prior visits to Turkey as tourist: Pamukkale and Eğirdir, Antalya, Myra and Side.

Much have I seen compared to some of the locals, but much remains to be seen.

Pamukkale 30.jpg
Above: Pamukkale

Lake Egirdir.jpg
Above: Eğirdir

Upper: Düden Waterfalls and Yivliminare Mosque Middle: Falez Park and Konyaaltı Beach Under: Hadrian's Gate and Hıdırlık Tower
Above: Images of Antalya

Above: Myra rock tombs

Sunrise apollo side.jpg
Above: Temple of Apollo, Side

We speak of the future, of where I wish to go, of what I wish to see.

I speak of a notion of taking land transport from Switzerland to Turkey in mid-February 2022.

Europe orthographic Caucasus Urals boundary (with borders).svg
Above: (in green) Europe

I mention Kars near the Armenian border far to the east of Eskisehir and of how Orhan Pamuk’s novel Snow has given me the curiosity to see for myself the city’s remnants of Russian occupation – Belle Époque mansions and Russian Orthodox church now a converted cami (mosque), a castle town of cheese and honey, the birthplace of my boss Cem.

Top: Cathedral of Kars, Castle of Kars (left to right) Bottom: Panorama view of Kars, overview of Karacaören from Kars Castle.
Above: Images of Kars

Snow (novel).jpg

Above: Cem

I smile when I speak of Batman and Van and my desire to visit them just so I can post pictures of myself in places named Batman and Van.

A view of city center in Batman.
Above: City centre, Batman

Above: Zeynel Bey Mausoleum, Batman

Wan,Mizgefta Hezretî Omer.JPG
Above: Van

Above: Van

I tell them it was the novelty of nomenclature that had inspired me to visit Egirdir.

What's In a Name? in San Francisco at Manny's

I visited Eğirdir, not for shimmering Lake Eğirdir, or for the town’s Byzantine fortress, Seljuk structures, or crumbling old quarter ringed by beaches and fishing boats, but because Eğirdir sits upon the two ends of a peninsula which meet midway at a park outcropping with the curious name of “Canada” (pronounced Jah-nah-dah)(the island of life).

Above: Lake Eğirdir

Adventure and Antiquity: Egirdir
Above: Eğirdir

A Visitor's Guide to the Sagalassos Ruins & Lake Egirdir | PlanetWare
Above: Eğirdir

hidden europe | A Day by the Lake: Simple Pleasures in Egirdir
Above: Eğirdir

A Visitor's Guide to the Sagalassos Ruins & Lake Egirdir | PlanetWare
Above: Eğirdir Peninsula with Canada (the Island of Life)

I tell the story of what the name of Canada means to Canadians.

I tell the boys that there are two stories:

One version we like.

And the other?

Not so much.

A vertical triband design (red, white, red) with a red maple leaf in the center.
Above: Flag of Canada

The version we like:

In 1535, French explorer Jacques Cartier asked the Indigenous people of Hochelaga (today’s Montréal) what was directly behind them.

They responded with:

Kanata, meaning “village” in the Algonquin tongue.

Jacques Cartier 1851-1852.jpg
Above: Jacques Cartier (1491 – 1557)

Maquette du village d'Hochelaga.jpg
Above: Model of the Iroquoian village of Hochelaga, from the descriptions of Jacques Cartier and other Québec archaeological sites

The version we don’t like:

Thirty-five years before this, the King of Portugal asked his cartographers to make a map of what was known then about the New World.

Where my homeland is were written the Portuguese words:

A ca nada.

There is nothing there.”

A projection of North America with Canada highlighted in green
Above: (in green) Canada

So, I am either one of the Village People or I am a real Nowhere Man.

Above: The Village People (band)

He’s a real nowhere man
Sitting in his nowhere land
Making all his nowhere plans for nobody

Doesn’t have a point of view
Knows not where he’s going to
Isn’t he a bit like you and me?

Nowhere Man, please listen
You don’t know what you’re missing
Nowhere Man, the world is at your command

He’s as blind as he can be
Just sees what he wants to see
Nowhere Man, can you see me at all?

Nowhere Man, don’t worry
Take your time, don’t hurry
Leave it all till somebody else lends you a hand

Doesn’t have a point of view
Knows not where he’s going to
Isn’t he a bit like you and me?

Nowhere Man, please listen
You don’t know what you’re missing
Nowhere Man, the world is at your command

He’s a real Nowhere Man
Sitting in his nowhere land
Making all his nowhere plans for nobody
Making all his nowhere plans for nobody
Making all his nowhere plans for nobody

Nowhere man single.PNG

We compare Eskisehir (the San Francisco of Turkey) to Istanbul (Turkish NYC) and Ankara (Turkish DC).

My feeling is that of a man living in a frontier town where beyond the municipal boundaries lie lands of fervoured faith and fanatical fatalism.

I am a man living in an oasis of liberalism in a conservative country, an island of idyllic isolation happily adrift from the mainstream of the nation.

Top left:Eskişehir Central railway station, Top right: Tepebaşı Municipality, Bottom left: Museum of Modern Glass Art, Bottom right: Porsuk River.
Above: Images of Eskisehir

Eskisehir is a university town, described by Lonely Planet Turkey as a place that “may well be Turkey’s happiest city“.

Lonely Planet Turkey (Country Regional Guides): Amazon.de: Bainbridge,  James, Atkinson, Brett, Butler, Stuart: Fremdsprachige Bücher

With a massive university population (the bulk of our students), Eskisehir is a lively loveliness of liberation in austere Anatolia.

Lacking the conservatism of autocratic Ankara and the chaotic crowding of Istanbul, Eskisehir just may be Turkey’s most liveable city.

Drinks lead men to do boyish things.

Photos at Museum Pub - Pub in Eskişehir

The pub has foosball and the five of us circle the table, four play in teams of two, one cheers.

The Turks (Mustafa, Cem and Nuri) trash the feeble foreign infidels (Rasool and I).

Above: Mustafa

Above: Nuri, Esma and Ayca

Above: Shqipe and Rasool

My heart (and certainly my cussing at my clumsiness) are involved in the matches, but my head isn’t in the game.

New Research Shows That Cursing Can Help You Be a Better Public Speaker |  Inc.com

From “The One with the Dozen Lasagnas“, Friends, Season 1, Episode 12

Monica: Score! You suck!

(She leaves Joey and Chandler’s apartment.)

Ross: We kicked your butts.

Joey: No, she kicked our butts. You could have been on the Olympic Standing There Team.

Friends Quiz: How Well Do You Know Joey & Chandler's Bromance? – Page 20
Above: Matt Leblanc (Joey), Matthew Perry (Chandler), David Schwimmer (Ross), Courteney Cox (Monica)

I represented Canada in this Olympic event.

Canadian Olympic Committee - Wikipedia

From “The One Where Joey Moves Out”, Friends, Season 2, Episode 16

Joey: So, who gets the foosball table?

Chandler: I’ll tell you what. I’ll play you for it.

Joey: Alright, you’re on! I can take two minutes out of my day to kick your ass.

Chandler: Your little men are going to get scored on more times than your sister.

Joey: Whoa! Whoa! Whoa! Which sister?

Matt LeBlanc reveals he stole a ball from the foosball table of the Friends  set and he's kept it for 15 years
Above: Matthew Perry (Chandler) and Matt Leblanc (Joey)

Instead my mind thinks of the table talk and my blog research for another installment of the adventures of Swiss Miss.

(How can I describe Halong, Vietnam?

How can I make this place I have “seen” only through Heidi Ho’s accounts interesting to my readers?

How can I make her and those she met matter to those who read about them?)

Above: Traditional red sails on Hạ Long Bay, Vietnam

This blog project – an obligation of my own volition – needs an angle, a theme with which to frame the tale and description around it.

I think of the other task to which I have tested myself, the chronicles of each calendar day, and of what I have read of 21 February, the next date to be discussed.

It seems that this date’s main event, the publication of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engel’s Communist Manifesto, lends itself well to the discussion of Swiss Miss in a Communist country.

Communist-manifesto.png
Above: The Communist Manifesto

But my mind drifts from Halong instead into….

The Twilight Zone.

Thetwilightzone-logo.svg

On 21 February in history, among many many noteworthy events – battles, invasions, assassinations, inventions, conventions and accomplishments – I find my thoughts turning to the deaths on this day of two writers whose writing feels somewhat suited to thoughts of my current situation.

Goodwick sands.jpeg
Above: Battle of Fishguard, 21 February 1797

Fi krig map1.jpg
Above: Key sites of the Finnish War, 21 February 1808 – 17 September 1809

Cherokeephoenix-5-1828.png
Above: The Cherokee Phoenix (Cherokee: ᏣᎳᎩ ᏧᎴᎯᏌᏅᎯ, romanized: Tsalagi Tsulehisanvhi) was the first newspaper published by Native Americans in the US and the first published in a Native American language.
The first issue was published in English and Cherokee on 21 February 1828, in New Echota, capital of the Cherokee Nation (present-day Georgia).
The paper continued until 1834. The Cherokee Phoenix was revived in the 20th century, and today it publishes both print and Internet versions.

Above: Diagram of a modern sewing machine – first US patent: 21 February 1842

Above: A “white pages” telephone directory – first published in New Haven, Connecticut, 21 February 1878

Washington Monument with American flags on a gorgeous Fall day.jpg
Above: The Washington Monument, dedicated 21 February 1885

KurtEisner.jpg
Above: Kurt Eisner (14 May 1867 – 21 February 1919)

Cover of The New Yorker's first issue in 1925 with illustration depicting iconic character Eustace Tilley
Above: Cover of The New Yorker‘s first issue in 1925 with illustration depicting its iconic character Eustace Tilley

Augusto César Sandino cph.3b19320.jpg

Above: Augusto César Sandino (18 May 1895 – 21 February 1934)

37mm Gun fires against cave positions at Iwo Jima.jpg
Above: Battle of Iwo Jima, 19 February – 26 March 1945

Soldados da FEB no segundo asalto da batalha de Monte Castelo.jpg
Above: Battle of Monte Castello, 25 November 1944 – 21 February 1945

Above: Polaroid Land Camera Model 95, 1st commercially available instant camera, 1st demonstrated 21 February 1947

NASCAR logo 2017.svg
Above: the National Association for Stock Car Racing (founded 21 February 1948) logo

Above: The peace sign, completed 21 February 1958

Malcolm X in March 1964
Above: Malcolm X (19 May 1925 – 21 February 1965)

Ecstasy tablets
Above: Ecstasy tablets – The Convention on Psychotropic Drugs, Vienna, 21 February 1971

Above: US President Richard Nixon visits China, 21 February 1972

Steve Fossett 1.jpg
Above: Steve Fossett (1944 – 2007) became the first person to make a solo flight across the Pacific Ocean in a balloon on 21 February 1995, completing his journey in Leader, Saskatchewan, Canada

Charles Beaumont (1929 – 1967) was an American author of speculative fiction, including short stories in the horror and science fiction subgenres.

On This Gay Day: Author Charles Beaumont was born | OUTInPerth | LGBTQIA+  News and Culture
Above: Charles Beaumont

He is remembered as a writer of classic Twilight Zone episodes, such as “The Howling Man“, “Static“, “Miniature“, “Printer’s Devil“, and “Number Twelve Looks Just Like You“, but also penned the screenplays for several films, such as 7 Faces of Dr. LaoThe Intruder, and The Masque of the Red Death.

SYFY November 4 in Twilight Zone History: Celebrating the 1960 premiere of 'The  Howling Man'
Above: Robin Hughes, “The Howling Man“, The Twilight Zone

The Twilight Zone: Miniature (1963) | MUBI
Above: Robert Duval, “Miniature“, The Twilight Zone

Burgess Meredith Robert Sterling Patricia Crowley Twilight Zone 1963.jpg
Above: Burgess Meredith, Robert Sterling and Patricia Crowley, “Printer’s Devil“, The Twilight Zone

7 Faces of Doctor Lao .jpg

The Intruder (1962 film).jpg

MasqueOfTheRedDeath(1964film).jpg

Novelist Dean Koontz said:

Charles Beaumont was one of the seminal influences on writers of the fantastic and macabre.

Dean Koontz (@deankoontz) | Twitter
Above: Dean Koontz

Beaumont is also the subject of the documentary Charles Beaumont: The Short Life of Twilight Zone’s Magic Man by Jason V Brock.

Charles Beaumont: The Short Life of Twilight Zone's Magic Man by William F.  Nolan: Amazon.de: Sean MacLaughlin, Danny Binstock, Jared Albert, Jason V.  Brock: DVD & Blu-ray

Beaumont was born Charles Leroy Nutt in Chicago, the only child of Charles Hiram Nutt (an auditor of freight accounts for the Chicago & Alton Railroad) and Violet “Letty” (née Phillips) Nutt, a homemaker who had been a scenarist at Essanay Studios (1907 – 1915).

His father was 56 when Charles was born.

Letty, his mother, was 22 years her husband’s junior.

Letty is known to have dressed young Charles in girls’ clothes, and once threatened to kill his dog to punish him.

These early experiences inspired the celebrated short story “Miss Gentilbelle“, but according to Beaumont:

Football, baseball and dimestore cookie thefts filled my early world.”

School did not hold his attention, and his last name exposed him to ridicule, so Charles Nutt found solace as a teenager in science fiction.

He dropped out of high school in 10th grade to join the Army.

Military service mark of the United States Army.svg

He also worked as a cartoonist, illustrator, disc jockey, usher, and dishwasher before selling his first story to Amazing Stories in 1950.

During his time as an illustrator, he briefly used the pseudonyms Charles McNutt (circa 1947/48) and E.T. Beaumont (inspired by a female artist named “Miss Beaumont” with whom he had collaborated in Everett, Washington), before settling on the name Charles Beaumont.

He soon adopted this name legally and used it both personally and professionally for the rest of his life.

In 1954, Playboy magazine selected his story “Black Country” to be the first work of short fiction to appear in its pages.

PlayboyLogo.svg

It was at this time that Beaumont started writing for television and film.

Beaumont was energetic and spontaneous, and was known to take trips (sometimes out of the country) at a moment’s notice.

An avid racing fan, he often enjoyed participating in or watching area speedway races, with other authors tagging along.

His cautionary fables include “The Beautiful People” (1952), about a rebellious adolescent girl in a future conformist society in which people are obligated to alter their physical appearance (adapted with friend and frequent writing partner John Tomerlin as an episode of The Twilight Zone – “Number 12 Looks Just Like You“), and “Free Dirt” (1955), about a man who gorges on his entire vegetable harvest and dies from having consumed the magical soil he used to grow it.

Free Dirt: The Twilight Zone Radio Dramas by NOT A BOOK

His short story “The Crooked Man” (also published by Playboy in 1955) presents a dystopian future wherein heterosexuality is stigmatized in the same way that homosexuality then was, with heterosexual people living furtively like pre-Stonewall (Stonewall riots: 28 June – 3 July 1969) gay and lesbian people.

In the story, a heterosexual man meets his lover in a gay orgy bar.

They try to have sex in a curtained booth (she dressed in male drag) and are caught.

The Crooked Man by Charles Beaumont

Beaumont wrote several scripts for The Twilight Zone, including an adaptation of his own short story, “The Howling Man“, about a prisoner who might be the Devil, and the hour-long “Valley of the Shadow“, about a cloistered Utopia that refuses to share its startlingly advanced technology with the outside world.

The Twilight Zone Vortex: "Valley of the Shadow"
Above: Ed Nelson, “Valley of the Shadow“, The Twilight Zone

Beaumont scripted the film Queen of Outer Space from an outline by Ben Hecht, deliberately writing the screenplay as a parody.

According to Beaumont, the directorial style is not informed by his satiric intent.

Queen of Outer Space.jpg

He penned one episode of the TV show Steve Canyon, titled “Operation B-52“, in which Canyon and his crew attempt to set a speed record in a B-52 accompanied by a newsman who hates Air Force pilots.

Steve Canyon | Nostalgia Central
Above: Dean Fredericks as Steve Canyon

Beaumont was much admired by his colleagues (Ray Bradbury, Harlan Ellison, Richard Matheson, Robert Bloch, Roger Corman).

Ray Bradbury in 1975
Above: Ray Bradbury (1920 – 2012)

Ellison in 1986
Above: Harlan Ellison (1934 – 2018)

Matheson in 2008.
Above: Richard Matheson (1926 – 2013)

Bloch in 1976
Above: Robert Bloch (1917 – 1994)

RogerCormanHWOFOct2012.jpg
Above: Roger Corman

Many of his stories have been re-released in the posthumous volumes Best of Beaumont (Bantam, 1982) and The Howling Man (Tom Doherty, 1992), and a set of previously unpublished tales, A Touch of the Creature (Subterranean Press, 1999).

Best of Beaumont: Beaumont, Charles: 9780553227604: Amazon.com: Books

1st The Howling Man - Charles Beaumont PB | eBay

Charles Beaumont - Valancourt Books

In 2004, Gauntlet Press released the first of two volumes collecting Beaumont’s Twilight Zone scripts.

The Twilight Zone Scripts of Charles Beaumont Vol. 1: Amazon.de: Beaumont,  Charles: Bücher

In 1963, when Beaumont was 34 and overwhelmed by numerous writing commitments, he began to suffer the effects of “a mysterious brain disease” which seemed to age him rapidly.

His ability to speak, concentrate, and remember became erratic.

While some people attributed all of this to Beaumont’s heavy drinking, his friend and colleague John Tomerlin disagreed:

I was working closely with Chuck at the time, and we were good enough friends for me to know that alcohol by itself could not possibly account for the odd mental state that he was in.”

He was rarely well,” his friend and colleague William F. Nolan later recalled.

He was thin, and kept having headaches.

He used Bromo-Seltzer like most people use water.

He had a big Bromo bottle with him all the time.”

The disease also affected his work.

He could barely sell stories, much less write.

He would go unshaven to meetings with producers, which would end in disaster.

A script writer has got to be able to think on your feet, which Chuck couldn’t do anymore.

And so the producers would just go:

‘We’re sorry, Mr. Beaumont, but we don’t like the script’.

William F. Nolan in 2008
Above: William F. Nolan

The condition might have been related to the spinal meningitis he suffered as a child.

His friend and early agent Forrest J. Ackerman has asserted an alternative, that Beaumont suffered simultaneously from Alzheimer’s disease and Pick’s disease.

Forrest Ackerman (1965).jpg
Above: Forrest Ackerman (1916 – 2008)

This claim was supported by the UCLA Medical Staff, who subjected Beaumont to a battery of tests in the summer of 1964 that indicated that it might be either Alzheimer’s or Pick’s.

Nolan recalls that the UCLA doctors sent Beaumont home with a death sentence:

“They said:

‘There’s absolutely no treatment for this disease.

It’s permanent and it’s terminal.

He’ll probably live from six months to three years with it.

He’ll decline and get to where he can’t stand up.

He won’t feel any pain.

In fact, he won’t even know this is happening’.

The University of California UCLA.svg

In Nolan’s own words:

Like his character ‘Walter Jameson’, Chuck just dusted away.”

Image gallery for The Twilight Zone: Long Live Walter Jameson (TV) -  FilmAffinity
Above: Kevin McCarthy as Walter Jameson, “Long Live Walter Jameson“, The Twilight Zone

Several fellow writers, including Nolan and friend Jerry Sohl, began ghostwriting for Beaumont during 1963–1964, so that he could meet his many writing obligations.

Privately, he insisted on splitting these fees.

The Twilight Zone Vortex: Lost in the Fifth Dimension: Jerry Sohl's Legacy  in the Twilight Zone
Above: Jerry Sohl (1913 – 2002)

By 1965, however, Beaumont was too ill to even create or sell story ideas.

His last on-screen writing credit was for the 1965 film Mister Moses, officially a screenplay written with (but more likely written by) Monja Danischewsky.

Mrmopost.jpg

The Battle of the Sexes – Cast & Crew on MUBI
Above: Monja Danischewsky (1911 – 1994)

Beaumont died in Woodland Hills, California at the age of 38.

His son Christopher later said that his father, “looked 95 and was, in fact, 95 by every calendar except the one on your watch”.

Charles Beaumont (1929-1967) - Find A Grave Memorial
Above: Charles Beaumont

From “Perchance to Dream“, The Twilght Zone, 27 November 1959:

Twelve o’clock noon.

An ordinary scene, an ordinary city.

Lunchtime for thousands of ordinary people.

To most of them, this hour will be a rest, a pleasant break in a day’s routine.

To most, but not all.

To Edward Hall, time is an enemy, and the hour to come is a matter of life and death.

Edward Hall (Richard Conte), a man with a severe heart condition, believes that if he falls asleep, he’ll die.

On the other hand, keeping himself awake will put too much of a strain on his heart.

He believes that his overactive imagination is severely out of control, to the point where he’s been able to see and feel something that was not there.

Due to this, his heart condition is especially dangerous.

He seeks the aid of psychiatrist Dr. Eliot Rathmann (John Larch).

When he first enters the doctor’s office, so tired he is barely able to stand, Rathmann helps him to the couch.

Hall begins to drift into sleep, but suddenly jolts awake and gets up.

He explains that, when he has allowed himself to sleep he has been dreaming in chapters, as if in a movie serial.

In his dreams, MayaThe Cat Girl” (Suzanne Lloyd), a carnival dancer, lures him first into a funhouse and later onto a roller coaster in an attempt to scare him to death.

Twilight Zone episode review — 1.9 — Perchance to Dream | by Patrick J  Mullen | As Vast as Space and as Timeless as Infinity | Medium

Feeling that Rathmann cannot help him, Hall starts to leave, but stops when he sees that Rathmann’s receptionist looks exactly like Maya.

Terrified, he runs back into Rathmann’s office and jumps out of the window.

November 27 in Twilight Zone History: Celebrating the 1959 premiere of ' Perchance to Dream' | November 27 in Twilight Zone History: Celebrating the  1959 premiere of 'Perchance to Dream'

In reality, the doctor calls his receptionist, who does in fact look exactly like Maya, into his office, where Hall lies on the couch, his eyes closed.

Rathmann tells the receptionist that Hall came in, lay down, immediately fell asleep, and then a few moments later let out a scream and died.

Well, I guess there are worse ways to go,” the doctor says philosophically.

At least he died peacefully…

The Twilight Zone Episode 9: Perchance to Dream - Midnite Reviews

They say a dream takes only a second or so, and yet in that second a man can live a lifetime.

He can suffer and die, and who’s to say which is the greater reality:

The one we know or the one in dreams, between heaven, the sky, the earth –

In the Twilight Zone.

The Twilight Zone" Perchance to Dream (TV Episode 1959) - Photo Gallery -  IMDb
Above: Suzanne Lloyd and Richard Conte, “Perchance to Dream“, The Twilight Zone

Life and death.

Not questions one should be brooding over when playing foosball.

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From “Elegy“, The Twilight Zone, 19 February 1960

The time is the day after tomorrow.

The place: a far corner of the universe.

A cast of characters: three men lost amongst the stars.

Three men sharing the common urgency of all men lost.

They’re looking for home.

And in a moment, they’ll find home.

Not a home that is a place to be seen, but a strange unexplainable experience to be felt.

January 13 in Twilight Zone History: Celebrating the birth of actor Jeff  Morrow ('Elegy') January 13 in Twilight Zone History: Celebrating the birth  of actor Jeff Morrow ('Elegy')

In the late 22nd century, astronauts Meyers, Webber and Kirby land their spaceship on a remote asteroid after running low on fuel.

They find the place quite Earth-like although “655 million miles away from Earth“, but more closely resembling Earth of a past era, although they notice that it has two suns.

Hypnogoria: THE TWILIGHT ZONE NETWORK - Elegy

The first place they come to is a farm where they find a farmer gazing off into the distance.

They acknowledge him and try to get his attention, but realize he is frozen in place.

Pin on Twilight Zone

The astronauts find a town and they split up to explore it.

They are disturbed by their surroundings as they find this town populated by more of the apparently frozen human beings.

Everything remains eerily motionless.

Dog Star Omnibus: The Twilight Zone: Elegy

Converging on the centre of town, they are startled to find someone who does move:

Jeremy Wickwire, who tells them that he’s the caretaker.

Amiably, Wickwire explains to the astronauts that the asteroid they have landed on is an exclusive cemetery called Happy Glades, founded in 1973, where rich people can live out their life’s greatest fantasy after they die.

Uživatel The Twilight Zone na Twitteru: „"Do you like it? We built it for a  Mr. ... eh, let's see ... Mr. Jenkinson, but at the last moment he decided  that the

He is told by the men that a nuclear war destroyed much of the Earth in 1985, and that it has taken 200 years to recover from it.

Wickwire serves the three men Liebfraumilch (a type of German vintage wine), toasts their safe arrival, and asks each man what his greatest wish is.

All three reply that they wish they were on their ship heading for home.

Suddenly, they realize that their drinks have been poisoned with what Wickwire refers to as “eternifying fluid“.

As the men are dying, Wickwire (who is actually a robot that has been deactivated for “about 200 years” and only turns on for occasional duties such as cleaning, dusting, and maintenance on a few clocks) apologizes to them, and explains that it is his job to ensure peace and tranquility at “Happy Glades“.

With an ominous close-up shot in stark relief, Wickwire emphasizes that they “are men, and while there are men, there can be no peace.”

Later, Wickwire re-installs the embalmed astronauts in their ship, posing them at their posts as if they were on their way home, just as they had wished.

January 13 in Twilight Zone History: Celebrating the birth of actor Jeff  Morrow ('Elegy') January 13 in Twilight Zone History: Celebrating the birth  of actor Jeff Morrow ('Elegy')

In the final scene, Wickwire is shown entering one of the stately buildings of Happy Glades, presumably shutting down again, probably forever, possibly until additional astronauts unwittingly land at Happy Glades.

Kirby, Webber, and Meyers, three men lost.

They shared a common wish — a simple one, really.

They wanted to be aboard their ship headed for home.

And fate — a laughing fate — a practical jokester with a smile stretched across the stars, saw to it that they got their wish with just one reservation:

The wish came true, but only….

In the Twilight Zone.

Image gallery for The Twilight Zone: Elegy (TV) - FilmAffinity
Above: Jeff Morrow, Kevin Hagen and Don Dubbins, “Elegy“, The Twilight Zone

Memory of this episode bothers me on a deep level.

Is it always a good thing to get what you desire?

Does being a man mean that I can never be truly at peace?

Can a man ever find home or is it our fate to always feel lost?

How many roads must a man walk down
Before you call him a man?
How many seas must a white dove sail
Before she sleeps in the sand?
Yes, and how many times must the cannonballs fly
Before they’re forever banned?

The answer, my friend, is blowin’ in the wind
The answer is blowin’ in the wind

Yes, and how many years can a mountain exist
Before it’s washed to the sea?
Yes, and how many years can some people exist
Before they’re allowed to be free?
Yes, and how many times can a man turn his head
And pretend that he just doesn’t see?

The answer, my friend, is blowin’ in the wind
The answer is blowin’ in the wind

Yes, and how many times must a man look up
Before he can see the sky?
Yes, and how many ears must one man have
Before he can hear people cry?
Yes, and how many deaths will it take ’til he knows
That too many people have died?

The answer, my friend, is blowin’ in the wind
The answer is blowin’ in the wind

BlowingUnauthorized.jpg

From “Long Live Walter Jameson“, The Twilight Zone, 18 March 1960:

You’re looking at Act One, Scene One, of a nightmare, one not restricted to witching hours of dark, rain-swept nights.

Professor Walter Jameson, popular beyond words, who talks of the past as if it were the present, who conjures up the dead as if they were alive.

In the view of this man, Professor Samuel Kittridge, Walter Jameson has access to knowledge that couldn’t come out of a volume of history, but rather from a book on black magic, which is to say that this nightmare begins at noon.

Watch The Twilight Zone Classic Season 1 Episode 24: Long Live Walter  Jameson - Full show on Paramount Plus

Walter Jameson (Kevin McCarthy), a college professor, is engaged to a young doctoral student named Susanna Kittridge (Dody Heath).

Susanna’s father, Sam Kittridge (Edgar Stehli), another professor at Jameson’s college, becomes suspicious of Jameson because he does not appear to have aged in the 12 years they have known each other and seems to have unrealistically detailed knowledge of some pieces of history that do not appear in texts.

Jameson at one point reads from an original Civil War diary in his possession.

Later, Kittridge recognizes Jameson in a Mathew Brady Civil War photograph.

Mathew Brady 1875 cropped.jpg
Above: Mathew Brady (1822 – 1896)

After he presents these pieces of evidence, Jameson ultimately reveals his real life history.

Agelessness (but no immunity to injury) was imparted to him by an alchemist more than 2,000 years ago.

Jameson does not know what was done to him, only that the alchemist was gone when he recovered, and he then stopped aging.

Soon, he had to become a constant refugee.

He tells Kittridge that he learned a terrible lesson from living for so long and longs for death.

He keeps a revolver in his desk drawer, but does not have the courage to use it.

Realizing that if Jameson marries his daughter, she will grow old, and Jameson will eventually abandon her in order to keep his secret, Kittridge refuses permission for Jameson to marry his daughter.

Jameson defies him and proposes to Susanna, and they plan to immediately elope.

The Twilight Zone

Jameson is accosted by Laurette Bowen (Estelle Winwood), one of his wives, whom he abandoned when she grew old and frail.

She claims that she cannot allow Jameson to destroy another woman’s life.

She discovers Jameson’s pistol lying on his desk and shoots him.

Shortly after Bowen leaves, Kittridge enters Jameson’s study and finds him bleeding, but seemingly at peace.

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Jameson rapidly ages and collapses on the floor.

Susanna enters the house.

Kittridge tries to stop her from seeing the aged Jameson, saying only that he is gone.

He is unable to keep her out of the room, but inside she discovers only an empty suit of clothes with a white substance near the collar and sleeves.

When Susanna asks what is on the floor, the professor replies:

Dust, only dust.”

March 18th in Twilight Zone History: Celebrating the 1960 premiere of 'Long  Live Walter Jameson' March 18th in Twilight Zone History: Celebrating the  1960 premiere of 'Long Live Walter Jameson'
Above: Kevin McCarthy, “Long Live Walter Jameson“, The Twilight Zone

I close my eyes
Only for a moment and the moment’s gone
All my dreams
Pass before my eyes, a curiosity

Dust in the wind
All they are is dust in the wind

Same old song
Just a drop of water in an endless sea
All we do
Crumbles to the ground, though we refuse to see

Dust in the wind
All we are is dust in the wind
Oh

Now, don’t hang on
Nothin’ lasts forever, but the earth and sky
It slips away
And all your money won’t another minute buy

Dust in the wind
All we are is dust in the wind


(All we are is dust in the wind)


Dust in the wind


(Everything is dust in the wind)


Everything is dust in the wind
The wind

Kansas-dust-in-the-wind.jpg

Last stop on a long journey, as yet another human being returns to the vast nothingness that is the beginning and into the dust that is always the end.

What gives life meaning?

Its length or its eventual end?

Meaningoflife.jpg

From “A Nice Place to Visit“, The Twilight Zone, 15 April 1960

Portrait of a man at work, the only work he’s ever done, the only work he knows.

His name is Henry Francis Valentine, but he calls himself “Rocky“, because that’s the way his life has been – rocky and perilous and uphill at a dead run all the way.

He’s tired now, tired of running or wanting, of waiting for the breaks that come to others but never to him, never to Rocky Valentine.

A scared, angry little man.

He thinks it’s all over now but he’s wrong.

For Rocky Valentine, it’s just the beginning.

The Twilight Zone S1 E28: A Nice Place to Visit | Film Music Central

After robbing a pawn shop, Henry Francis “Rocky” Valentine (Larry Blyden) is shot in a gunfight by a police officer as he tries to flee.

He wakes up to find himself seemingly unharmed by the encounter as a genial elderly man named Pip (Sebastian Cabot) greets him.

Pip explains that he has been instructed to guide Rocky and give him whatever he desires.

Rocky becomes suspicious, thinking that Pip is trying to swindle him, but Pip proves to have detailed information on Rocky’s tastes and hobbies.

Rocky demands that Pip hand over his wallet.

Pip says that he does not carry one, but gives Rocky $700 directly from his pocket and says that he can provide as much money as Rocky wants.

Ist The Twilight Zone (Original Series): Season 1: A Nice Place to Visit  auf Netflix Luxemburg?

Thinking that Pip is trying to entice him to commit a crime, Rocky holds him at gunpoint as the two travel to a luxurious apartment.

Pip explains that the apartment and everything in it are free.

Rocky starts to relax and changes into an expensive suit.

The Twilight Zone

However, his suspicions rise again when a meal is brought in, and he demands that Pip taste it first to prove that it is not poisoned.

When Pip demurs, claiming he has not eaten for centuries, Rocky shoots him several times but finds that his bullets have no effect.

Rocky realizes that he is dead, and he concludes that he is in Heaven and Pip is his guardian angel.

As Pip says he can have anything he wants, Rocky asks for $1 million and a beautiful woman and quickly has both requests fulfilled.

The Twilight Zone on Twitter: "Publicity photo of Sebastian Cabot for the Twilight  Zone episode “A Nice Place to Visit” #S1E28… "

Rocky visits a casino with three ladies, winning every bet he makes as beautiful girls gather around him, and enjoys being able to torment a policeman after Pip shrinks him.

Later, Rocky asks Pip if he can see some of his old friends who have also died, but Pip says that this world is for Rocky alone.

Except for the two men, no one in it is real.

When Rocky wonders what good deeds he could have done to gain entrance to Heaven, Pip takes him to visit the Hall of Records.

Rocky looks through his own file and discovers that it only contains a list of his sins, but decides not to worry about it.

Twilight Zone: A Nice Place To Visit (in less than 6 mins.): TwilightZone

Pip departs, saying that he can be reached by telephone as needed.

One month later, Rocky has become bored with having his whims instantly satisfied.

He wins every game at the casino, and the ladies defer to him and comply with every suggestion he makes.

He calls Pip and asks for a challenge in which he might run the risk of losing.

Pip offers to arrange for him to lose once in a while at the casino, but Rocky dismisses the idea as he would know about the setup.

The Twilight Zone Vortex: "A Nice Place to Visit"

The two discuss a bank robbery, but Rocky quickly abandons that idea as well since a pre-planned outcome would take the thrill out of the crime.

Deciding that he will go crazy if he stays in Heaven any longer, he asks Pip to take him to “the other place“.

Pip retorts:

Heaven?

Whatever gave you the idea you were in Heaven, Mr. Valentine? 

This is the other place!

Horrified, Rocky tries in vain to open the now-locked apartment door and escape his “paradise” as Pip laughs malevolently at his torment.

Twilight Zone Tuesday - A Nice Place to Visit - Sci-Fi & Scary

A scared, angry little man who never got a break.

Now he has everything he’s ever wanted – and he’s going to have to live with it for eternity –

In The Twilight Zone.

Watch The Twilight Zone Classic Season 1 Episode 28: A Nice Place to Visit  - Full show on Paramount Plus

Again, the idea of the danger of getting what you desire.

But is there an afterlife, a Heaven or “the other place“?

Or are we all just….

Dust in the wind?

From “Static“, The Twilight Zone, 10 March 1961:

No one ever saw one quite like that, because that’s a very special sort of radio.

In its day, circa 1935, its type was one of the most elegant consoles on the market.

Now with its fabric-covered speakers, its peculiar yellow dials, its serrated knobs, it looks quaint and a little strange.

Ryan's Twilight Zone Reviews: Static

Mr. Ed Lindsay is going to find out how strange very soon when he tunes in to….

The Twilight Zone.

The Twilight Zone Vortex: "Static"

Ed Lindsay (Dean Jagger), an embittered bachelor in his late 50s, living in a boarding house, is dismayed over the mindless programs and commercials on the TV set watched by the residents.

He retrieves from the basement an old radio which, in his younger and happier days, he enjoyed as a source of relaxation and entertainment.

Installing it in his room, he is pleased to hear the radio receiving 1930s/1940s music and programs, including live performances by Edward Bowes, Fred Allen and Tommy Dorsey, all of whom are dead.

Major Bowes as his Amateur Hour became a national radio program in 1935
Above: Edward Bowes (1874 – 1946)

Fred allen 1940s NBC photo.JPG
Above: Fred Allen (1894 – 1956)

Tommy Dorsey in 1947
Above: Tommy Dorsey (1905 – 1956)

He tells the others about the broadcasts, which they first assume are recordings.

Unable to receive them on a modern portable radio, they come into his room — but hear only static.

Ed now tries to contact the radio station (WPDA in fictional Cedarburg, New Jersey), but discovers it has been out of business for years.

The Twilight Zone Episode 56: Static - Midnite Reviews

Ed has a confrontation with Vinnie Broun (Carmen Mathews), who has lived in the same boarding house with him for two decades.

In an earlier era, they had intended to marry, but other things interfered until too much time had passed.

She tells him that the past cannot be recovered, that he should let it go, and that he is simply having a delusion.

Ed is furious, and he throws Vinnie out of his room.

His obsession with his radio continues to grow.

Worried about Ed’s mental state, Vinnie and the other residents have the radio hauled away by a junk dealer.

Ed rushes out and buys it back for $10.

He takes it back to his room, and to his great relief, finds it still operational.

The Twilight Zone auf Twitter: ""You want to go back to 1940 and start over  again. Why do you think you keep hearing 'Getting Sentimental Over You' on  the radio?" #ZoneQuotes #S2E20 "

He loses himself in an old Tommy Dorsey love song, the one he would share with Vinnie.

He calls her to his room, and the door swings open and Vinnie enters.

Ed is suddenly transported back in time to 1940, and he and Vinnie are young again.

Ecstatic, Ed professes his love for Vinnie and embraces her, determined to do things right this time.

Static (1961)

Around and around she goes, and where she stops nobody knows.

All Ed Lindsay knows is that he desperately wanted a second chance and he finally got it, through a strange and wonderful time machine called a radio.

In the Twilight Zone.

Dean Jagger The Twilight Zone 1961.JPG
Above: Dean Jagger, “Static“, The Twilight Zone

Lost in the past.

A return to “the good ol’ days“.

Yesterday was the Golden Age, la Belle Époque.

That, ladies and gentlemen, is how you win elections.

You gather a group of middle age, middle class, middle income voters who remember with longing an easier time, and you talk to them about family and values and character.”

(The American President)

The American President (movie poster).jpg

Hemingway: You writing?

Gil: A novel.

Hemingway: About what?

Gil: It’s about a man who works in a nostalgia shop.

Hemingway: What the hell is a nostalgia shop?

Gil: Y’know, a place where they sell old things, memorabilia. And, does that sound terrible?

Hemingway: No subject is terrible if the story is true, if the prose is clean and honest, and if it affirms courage and grace under pressure.

Midnight in Paris" (Archiv)
Above: Owen Wilson (Gil Pender), Corey Stoll (Ernest Hemingway) and Kathy Bates (Gertrude Stein), Midnight in Paris

Gertrude Stein: The artist’s job is not to succumb to despair but to find an antidote for the emptiness of existence.

(Midnight in Paris)

Midnight in Paris Poster.jpg

Different people long for different “golden ages“, but despite the allure of nostalgia, any time can eventually become a dull “present“, so it’s best to embrace the actual moment.

But it is so damn easy to a-yondering in yesteryear, to ignore the incandescence of individual sunrises and sunsets, to cease to believe in a celestial tomorrow.

It is a deadly temptation to succumb to despair.

Yondering - Wikipedia

I watch, detached from myself, the joy and amusement of my drinking companions intensely focused on getting plastic men impaled on common skewers to kick a tiny ball across an imaginary pitch into an inconsequential goal.

How like life this game could seem!

Each man around the table longs for something the present moment is not providing.

Nuri dreams of escaping this country and finding a home elsewhere.

Mustafa seeks a serenity that slips through his fingers.

Cem simultaneously feels loved and burdened by the family he has made.

Rasool misses the homeland he left behind and wonders at the insanity of missing a place wherein he was miserable.

And I?

I am like the travelling companions of Dorothy in L. Frank Baum’s The Wizard of Oz.

I am the Scarecrow looking for intelligence, the Tin Man looking for his heart, the Cowardly Lion seeking courage.

Trying to write prose that is clean and honest, that affirms courage and grace under pressure, that overcomes my despair and gives empathy to existence.

Wizard of oz movie poster.jpg

But Oz never did give nothing to the Tin Man that he didn’t already have.

Tin man-america.jpg

From “Dead Man’s Shoes“, The Twilight Zone, 19 January 1962:

Nathan Edward Bledsoe, of the Bowery Bledsoes, a man once, a spectre now.

One of those myriad modern-day ghosts that haunt the reeking nights of the city in search of a flop, a handout, a glass of forgetfulness.

Nate doesn’t know it but his search is about to end, because those shiny new shoes are going to carry him right into the capital of….

The Twilight Zone.

The Twilight Zone" Dead Man's Shoes (TV Episode 1962) - IMDb

A homeless man, Nate Bledsoe, snatches a pair of shoes from Dane, the target of a mob hit dumped in an alley.

Two of his homeless associates try to con him out of the plainly expensive shoes, to no avail.

Twilight Zone Tuesday - Dead Man's Shoes - Sci-Fi & Scary

Wearing the shoes infuses him with the personality and memories of the victim.

He continues his life as Dane.

Nate stops by the home of the victim’s girlfriend, who recognizes his manner and kisses him.

Nate then goes to a bar to confront Dagget, the boss who had him killed.

Dagget is at first unsettled, but then realizes who Nate is and has him gunned down.

Before he dies, he promises:

I’ll be back, Bernie, and I’ll keep coming back.

Again, and again.”

Pin on The Twilight Zone ..

The body (with shoes) is dumped in the same place as the original victim.

One of Nate’s acquaintances from earlier finds his corpse, takes the shoes, and puts them on and the cycle begins anew.

The Twilight Zone Screencaps

There’s an old saying that goes>

If the shoe fits, wear it.

But be careful.

If you happen to find a pair of size 9, black and gray loafers, made to order in the old country, be very careful.

You might walk right into….

The Twilight Zone.

Twilight Zone Tuesday - Dead Man's Shoes - Sci-Fi & Scary

I got it bad
You don’t know how bad I got it
You got it easy
You don’t know when you’ve got it good


It’s getting harder
Just keeping life and soul together
I’m sick of fighting
Even though I know I should


The cold is biting
Through each and every nerve and fiber
My broken spirit is frozen to the core
I don’t wanna be here no more

Wouldn’t it be good to be in your shoes
Even if it was for just one day?
Wouldn’t it be good if we could wish ourselves away?
Wouldn’t it be good to be on your side?
The grass is always greener over there
Wouldn’t it be good if we could live without a care?

You must be joking
You don’t know a thing about it
You’ve got no problem
I’d stay right there if I were you


I got it harder
You couldn’t dream how hard I got it
Stay out of my shoes
If you know what’s good for you


The heat is stifling
Burning me up from the inside
The sweat is coming through each and every pore


I don’t wanna be here no more
I don’t wanna be here no more
I don’t wanna be here no more

Wouldn’t it be good to be in your shoes
Even if it was for just one day?
Wouldn’t it be good if we could wish ourselves away?
Ooh-ooh-ooh
Wouldn’t it be good to be on your side?
The grass is always greener over there
Wouldn’t it be good if we could live without a care?

I got it bad
You don’t know how bad I got it
You got it easy
You don’t know when you’ve got it good


It’s getting harder
Just keeping life and soul together
I’m sick of fighting
Even though I know I should


I don’t want to be here no more
I don’t want to be here no more

Wouldnt It Be Good.jpg

From “Person or Persons Unknown“, The Twilight Zone, 23 March 1962:

Cameo of a man who has just lost his most valuable possession.

He doesn’t know about the loss yet.

In fact, he doesn’t even know about the possession.

Because, like most people, David Gurney has never really thought about the matter of his identity.

But he’s going to be thinking a great deal about it from now on, because that is what he’s lost.

And his search for it is going to take him into the darkest corners of….

The Twilight Zone.

The Twilight Zone Vortex: "Person or Persons Unknown"

David Gurney wakes up from a night of wild partying to find that nobody recognizes him, and all evidence of his identity had disappeared.

His wife, friends, co-workers, and mother all deny knowing him.

He is placed in an insane asylum, where his doctor, Koslenko, tells him that David Gurney doesn’t exist, and is only a delusional construct.

March 23 in Twilight Zone History: Celebrating the 1962 premiere of 'Person  or Persons Unknown' March 23 in Twilight Zone History: Celebrating the 1962  premiere of 'Person or Persons Unknown'

Gurney deems this impossible since he has extensive memories of his life and the people he knows, and becomes convinced that someone wants to blot him out.

He jumps through the window of the asylum, steals a van, and goes searching for evidence of his identity.

He finds a photograph of him holding his wife, and says that the photo and its date disprove his wife’s claim that she never saw him before.

However, when the police arrive with the psychiatrist, the picture has somehow changed and portrays Gurney alone, inexplicably grasping thin air.

He throws himself to the ground and wakes up in his bed.

The whole adventure was a bad dream.

His wife gets up from the bed and talks to him from the bathroom, where she removes cream from her face.

When she emerges, Gurney is horrified to discover that, even though she acts and talks the same way, his wife does not look at all like the wife he knows.

Top 13 Scariest Episodes of The Twilight Zone — Four Color Bleed

A case of mistaken identity or a nightmare turned inside out?

A simple loss of memory or the end of the world?

David Gurney may never find the answer, but you can be sure he’s looking for it….

In the Twilight Zone.

My Life in the Shadow of The Twilight Zone: TZ Promo: “Person or Persons  Unknown” (3/23/1962)

It is a good question.

Who are we?

Do we exist if no one is aware that we do?

Did we exist if no one is aware that we did?

What is the point of being an individual if an individual doesn’t matter?

My mind is angered by this last question it created.

There must be, there has to be, some significance to individual existence, otherwise why does each person possess their own individual DNA, their own individual fingerprints, their own individual past and perspective, their own individual identity?

I refuse to accept that all we are is random chance, that all we are is nothing more than….

Dust in the wind.

Chameleon (comics).png

From “The New Exhibit“, The Twilight Zone, 4 April 1963:

Martin Lombard Senescu, a gentle man, the dedicated curator of murderers’ row in Ferguson’s Wax Museum.

He ponders the reasons why ordinary men are driven to commit mass murder.

What Mr. Senescu does not know is that the groundwork has already been laid for his own special kind of madness and torment found only in….

The Twilight Zone.

My Life in the Shadow of The Twilight Zone: TZ Promo: "The New Exhibit"  (4/04/1963)

Martin Senescu works at a wax museum.

His boss and best friend, Mr. Ferguson, informs him that, due to a long-term decline in sales and his desire to retire, he is selling the museum, which will be torn down and replaced by a supermarket.

The dispirited Martin, desperate to save the figures from the “Murderer’s Row” exhibit – Jack the Ripper, Albert W. Hicks, Henri Désiré Landru, William Burke and Willima Hare – volunteers to keep them at his house until a buyer can be found for them.

Drawing of a man with a pulled-up collar and pulled-down hat walking alone on a street watched by a group of well-dressed men behind him
Above: “With the Vigilance Committee in the East End: A Suspicious Character“, The Illustrated London News, 13 October 1888

Alfred Hicks (cropped).jpg
Above: Alfred Hicks (1820 – 1860)

Landru - photographies d'identité judiciaire (17 avril 1919).jpg
Above: Henri Désiré Landru (1869 – 1922)

Above: William Burke (1792 – 1829)

Above: William Hare (18–? – ???)

Martin’s wife, Emma, becomes frustrated at having the figures in their basement.

They require an air conditioner to keep from melting, and due to the hot weather, the resultant electric bill wipes out their savings within a month.

Martin makes only perfunctory efforts at finding a buyer for the figures, instead spending most of his time tending to them.

Emma is disconcerted by this, especially when he begins talking about and to them as if they were alive.

Her brother, Dave, advises her to shut off the air conditioning so that the figures will melt.

After one last effort to convince Martin to return the figures to Ferguson’s care, Emma sneaks out of bed one night and goes down to the basement.

When she tries to shut off the air conditioner, the Jack the Ripper figure stabs her.

The next morning, Martin discovers his wife dead and Jack’s bloody knife.

Realizing no one will believe Emma was killed by a wax figure, he buries her under the basement floor.

May 4, 1963] The Twilight Zone, Season 4, Episodes 13-16 - Galactic Journey

The next day, Dave pays a visit.

Martin nervously claims to have gotten rid of the wax figures, which arouses Dave’s suspicions when he hears the air conditioner hum and finds the basement door locked.

When he presses Martin further about Emma’s whereabouts, Martin rushes him out of the house.

Dave then sneaks into the basement through the back entrance.

While he is examining the area, the Hicks figure strikes Dave with its axe.

Martin comes down later to find the carnage.

My Life in the Shadow of The Twilight Zone: TZ Promo: "The New Exhibit"  (4/04/1963)

Several weeks later, Ferguson comes by to tell Martin that he has sold the figures to the legendary Marchand’s Wax Museum in Brussels.

However, Martin is still reluctant to give up the wax figures he has so greatly cared for.

While he goes upstairs and makes tea, Ferguson takes measurements of the figures for the buyer.

When he makes a passing remark about Landru’s width, the latter strangles him.

The Twilight Zone "The New Exhibit" reenactment - YouTube

Martin comes downstairs with the tea and finds Ferguson’s body.

Deeming this the last straw, Martin rebukes the figures and grabs a crowbar, planning to smash them.

Suddenly, the wax figures come off their pedestals and advance on him, claiming he murdered Emma, Dave, and Ferguson despite not being in the basement when the murders occurred.

Martin screams as the figures close in.

Years later, at Marchand’s, the five murderer figures are now accompanied by a wax figure of Martin, who is believed to have killed Emma, Dave, and Ferguson.

Twilight Zone S4 – The New Exhibit (04/04/63) | Genre Snaps

The new exhibit became very popular at Marchand’s, but of all the figures none was ever regarded with more dread than that of Martin Lombard Senescu.

It was something about the eyes, people said.

It’s the look that one often gets after taking a quick walk through….

The Twilight Zone.

Twilight zone 2019 logo.jpg

I think of our mention of Eskisehir’s Yilmaz Büyükersen Wax Museum, of how we are the product of history, how we are as the people who came before us.

I think of the souvenir album I bought from the Museum and how people need some things for growing mature.

I think of how nations that do not create pictures and sculptures, art and literature, and the things required by and from science, cannot truly call themselves progressive.

Datei:Yılmaz Büyükerşen wax Museum (Yaşar Kemal).jpg – Wikipedia
Above: Wax effigy of Yilmaz Büyükersen

I am reminded of my journey through the Museum, of how here, there and everywhere Turkey’s War of Independence is commemorated, of how here, there and everywhere Mustafa Kemal Atatürk and his family is celebrated.

Turkey reminds me of Québec in that it celebrates its present while it refuses to abdicate the legacy of the past so feverishly abandoned and lost.

Coat of arms of Quebec
Above: Coat of arms of the Province of Québec (“I remember“)

Wax seeks to emulate the historical characters of the Ottoman Empire which prevailed for 600 years across three continents.

Here a sultan, there a sultan, everywhere a sultan’s sultan.

Ol’ McDonald came to Turkey.

E-I-E-I-O.

Yılmaz Büyükerşen Wax Museum - Museum in Eskisehir, Turkey |  Top-Rated.Online

And then there are the leaders who shaped the political landscape ever beneath the shadow of Atatürk’s legacy: Inönu, Demirel, Ecevit, Erbakan.

Inonu Ismet.jpg
Above: Inonu Ismet (1884 – 1973), 2nd President of Turkey

Suleyman Demirel 1998.jpg
Above: Suleyman Demirel (1924 – 2015), 9th President of Turkey

Bülent Ecevit-Davos 2000 cropped.jpg
Above: Bulent Ecevit (1925 – 2006), 16th Prime Minister of Turkey

Necmettin Erbakan.jpg
Above: Necmettin Erbakan (1926 – 2011), 23rd Prime Minister of Turkey

I am still a baby in Turkey, possessing not a clue as to these men’s significance.

I smile as I think of the Museum’s gallery of world leaders: Gandhi, Merkel, Churchill, Putin, Fischer, Obama, Queen Elizabeth II.

Mahatma-Gandhi, studio, 1931.jpg
Above: Mahatma Gandhi (1869 – 1948)

Angela Merkel 2019 cropped.jpg
Above: German Chancellor Angela Merkel

Churchill, aged 67, wearing a suit, standing and holding into the back of a chair
Above: Winston Churchill (1874 – 1965)

Vladimir Putin (2018-03-01) 03 (cropped).jpg
Above: Russian President Vladimir Putin

Heinz Fischer - Buchmesse Wien 2018.JPG
Above: Former Austrian Chancellor Heinz Fischer

Obama standing with his arms folded and smiling.
Above: Former US President Barack Obama

photograph of the Queen in her eighty-ninth year
Above: Queen Elizabeth II

Is the absence of Donald Trump’s effigy deliberate or merely delayed?

I would like to think the former and that the Museum sees the Donald as he really is rather than how he wishes to be seen.

Official White House presidential portrait. Head shot of Trump smiling in front of the U.S. flag, wearing a dark blue suit jacket with American flag lapel pin, white shirt, and light blue necktie.
Above: He Who Must Not Be Celebrated

Here the visitor finds performers every native Turk knows and no Turkish celibrity an international visitor knows: Suna Kan, Meric Sümen, Gürer Aykal, Rengim Gökmen, Nazim Ran, Fazil Say, Zeki Müren, Asik Veysel, Nükhet Duru, Ibrahim Tatlises, Orhan Gencebay, who?

Suna Kan
Above: Suna Kan

Meriç Sümen heykeline çirkin saldırı! - Son dakika haberleri
Above: Meriç Sümen

Gürer Aykal – Back on Stage
Above: Gürer Aykal

Prof. Rengim Gökmen
Above: Rengim Gökmen

NazimHikmetRan.jpg
Above: Nazim Hikmet Ran (1902 – 1963), Turkish poet, playwright, novelist, screenwriter, director and memoirist.
He was acclaimed for the “lyrical flow of his statements“.
Described as a “romantic communist” and “romantic revolutionary“, he was repeatedly arrested for his political beliefs and spent much of his adult life in prison or in exile.
His poetry has been translated into more than fifty languages.

Fazıl Say in 2019
Above: Fazil Say

Zeki Müren cropped.jpg
Above: Statue of Zeki Müren (1931 – 1996) in front of his last residence, Bodrum

Above: Asik Veysel (1894 – 1973), Turkish ashik (musician) and highly regarded poet of Turkish folk literature 

Above: The baglama, Veysel’s instrument of choice

Nükhet Duru Sings Jazz | Bodrum Jazz Festival
Above: Nükhet Duru, Turkish singer

Tatlıses in 2007
Above: Ibrahim Tatlises, Turkish folk singer

It is true a nation devoid of art and artists cannot have a full existence, but does the lack of global recognition diminish their significance?

Turkish leaders of aviation and rail, members of the press and wordsmiths, cinema and TV, sports and theatre (sometimes difficult to distinguish between the two), industry and science, the Wax Museum is almost tactile in its impact, almost tangible in what it teaches.

Yılmaz Büyükerşen Wax Museum - Wikiwand

But what of the Turks not represented here in wax?

What of those who lived and died, now buried and forgotten?

What of those who exist in obscurity and toil in the shadows and live invisibly ignored in the light cast by the stars?

Do their lives have significance?

Do ours?

From “Number 12 Looks Just Like You“, The Twilight Zone, 24 January 1964:

Given the chance, what young girl wouldn’t happily exchange a plain face for a lovely one?

What girl could refuse the opportunity to be beautiful?

For want of a better estimate, let’s call it the year 2000.

At any rate, imagine a time in the future where science has developed the means of giving everyone the face and body he dreams of.

It may not happen tomorrow, but it happens now.

In The Twilight Zone.

Ryan's Twilight Zone Reviews: Number 12 Looks Just Like You

In a future society, all 19-year-olds go through a process known as “the Transformation“, in which each person’s body is changed to a physically attractive design chosen from a selection of numbered models.

The process also slows deterioration due to age and confers immunity to disease, extending human lifespans, as well as making unspecified psychological corrections.

Due to the overwhelming popularity of female model 12 and male model 17, all adults wear name badges to avoid confusion.

Twilight Zone episode review — 5.17 — Number 12 Looks Just Like You | by  Patrick J Mullen | As Vast as Space and as Timeless as Infinity | Medium

Eighteen-year-old Marilyn Cuberle decides not to undergo the Transformation.

Nobody else can understand Marilyn’s decision, and those around her are confused by her displeasure with the conformity and shallowness of contemporary life.

Her “radical” beliefs were fostered by her now-deceased father, Rick, who gave Marilyn banned books and came to regret his own Transformation years earlier, committing suicide upon the loss of his identity.

Number 12 Looks Just Like You (1964)

When Dr. Rex is told about her decision, he has Marilyn confined to a hospital room against her will, ostensibly to psychologically examine her and cure her of her reason for refusing the procedure.

Marilyn suspects that despite not being legally required, the Transformation is not optional, and is being maintained by the leaders of society to ensure conformity.

Her best friend Valerie, who has already undergone the Transformation, shows no emotional reaction to Marilyn’s protests, even when she is driven to tears.

Marilyn realizes that no one who has undergone the Transformation remains capable of any empathy for or understanding of her.

She attempts to escape from the hospital, but due to a post-hypnotic suggestion planted during her stay, she instead goes to the operating room to undergo the Transformation.

Dr. Rex, who operated on Marilyn, comments that some people have problems with the idea of the Transformation but that “improvements” to the procedure now guarantee a positive result.

Marilyn reappears, looking and thinking exactly like Valerie.

And the nicest part of all, Val“, she gushes, “I look just like you!

Number 12 looks like you: TwilightZone

Portrait of a young lady in love – with herself.

Improbable?

Perhaps.

But in an age of plastic surgery, body building and an infinity of cosmetics, let us hesitate to say impossible.

These, and other strange blessings, may be waiting in the future, which, after all, is…. 

The Twilight Zone.

Number 12.JPG
Above: Suzy Parker, “Number 12 Looks Just Like You“, The Twilight Zone

This episode highlights Hollywood’s age-obsession and youthful looks for women, as well as themes of conformity and individuality. 

Photograph of the TV series, "Friends" cast.

I think that as wonderful a miracle as women are, (and they are indeed a miracle), it is the need of Woman to create an image of herself rather than risking rejection of her reality that makes it difficult for Man to relate to her.

For who exactly are they beneath the youthful illusions and cosmetic enhancements that they use to create the picture they wish to project?

Why are they instinctively driven to invention?

Certainly, they can be respected for their imagination and innovation inherent in their invention, but who are they beneath the masks, behind the smoke and mirrors?

What is left of a woman once the make-up is off?

Even the name “make-up” suggests a fiction, a parody, a falsehood, a lie.

I know there is more to a woman than simply her beauty, but the obsessive vanity given to her appearance can make a man wonder if there is a person worth knowing beyond and beneath the bottles and powders and Heaven only knows (and men can only guess) what other accoutrements a woman uses.

After the dust has cleared, what is a woman?

Is it any wonder that young men are confused, are intimidated by the image of perfection, by the aura of being too amazing for mere mortals, that women project?

Is it any wonder that young men question their self-worth when women flounce about like peacocks and parrots in a jungle of simian savages?

Can calloused hands and awkward artifice ever be good enough to touch porcelain pretty of flawless females?

Certainly their pride and fear conveys an attitude that we are not good enough for them.

They never imagine that their pretense makes them not good enough for us.

Give us a reality worth loving rather than an image unworthy of trust.

And God created woman.jpg

The other writer connected to 21 February in my mind is Alfred Andersch.

Literat und Wortkünstler - Vor 100 Jahren wurde Alfred Andersch geboren  (Archiv)
Above: Alfred Andersch

Alfred Hellmuth Andersch (1914 – 1980) was a German writer, publisher, and radio editor.

Alfred Andersch served as an analyst of contemporary issues for the post-war generation.

In his works, he described, above all, outsiders, and dealt with his political and moral experiences.

He often raised questions about the free will of the individual as a central theme. 

Diogenes Verlag - Das Alfred Andersch Lesebuch

The son of a conservative East Prussian army officer, he was born in Munich, Germany and died in Berzona, Ticino, Switzerland.

Martin Andersch, his brother, was also a writer.

His parents were Alfred Andersch (1875–1929) and his wife Hedwig, née Watzek (1884–1976).

His school master was Joseph Gebhard Himmler, the father of Heinrich Himmler.

Andersch wrote about this in The Father of a Murderer.

Bundesarchiv Bild 183-S72707, Heinrich Himmler.jpg
Above: Heinrich Himmler (1900 – 1945), architect of the Holocaust

In 1930, after an apprenticeship as a bookseller, Andersch became a youth leader in the Communist Party.

As a consequence, he was held for six months in the Dachau concentration camp in 1933.

Above: Prison cell, Dachau concentration camp

He then left the Party and entered a depressive phase of “total introversion“.

It was during this period that he first became engaged in the arts, adopting the stance that became known as innere Emigration (“internal emigration“) – despite remaining in Germany, he was spiritually opposed to Hitler’s regime.

Hitler portrait crop.jpg
Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

In 1940, Andersch was conscripted into the Wehrmacht (German army), but deserted at the Arno Line in Italy on 6 June 1944.

Red flag with black Nordic cross, black swastika in the center and black iron cross in the upper left corner
Above: Flag of the Wehrmacht

He was taken to the US as a POW and interned at Camp Ruston, Louisiana and other war prisoner camps.

He became the editor of a prisoners’ newspaper, Der Ruf (The Call).

Camp Ruston - A Brief History | Experience Ruston, Louisiana | Ruston-Lincoln  Parish CVB | Grambling, LA
Above: Camp Ruston

Wartime Der Ruf.jpg

A critical review of Andersch’s “internal émigré” status, his marriage to a German Jew and subsequent divorce in 1943, as well as of his writing, may be read in W.G. Sebald’s “Between the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea” attached to his essay On the Natural History of Destruction.

LuftkriegundLiteratur.jpg

Sebald accused Andersch of “literary counterfeiting and bigotry”. 

He questioned Andersch’s moral integrity. 

Sebald’s irreconcilable criticism and his reliance on Andersch’s proven personal misconduct during the war led to controversy. 

Andersch’s works were not reassessed, but, according to Gunter E. Grimm, Sebald’s report was “rightly rejected in its generality”. 

Sebald accused Andersch of having presented through literature a version of his life (and of the “internal emigration” more generally) that made it sound more acceptable to a post-Nazi public.

I suspect that Sebald was an ass.

W. G. Sebald.jpg
Above: W.G. Sebald (1944 – 2001)

Having returned to Germany, Andersch worked from 1945 as an editing assistant for Erich Kästner’s Neue Zeitung (New Newspaper) in Munich.

Erich Kästner, 1961
Above: Erich Kästner (1899 – 1974), German author, poet, screenwriter and satirist

From 1946 to 1947, he worked alongside Hans Werner Richter to publish the monthly literary journal Der Ruf, which was sold in the American occupation zone of Germany.

Hans Werner Richter.jpg
Above: Hans Werner Richter (1908 – 1993), German writer

The publication was discontinued following the non-renewal of its license by the US military government. 

Presumably, the discontinuation of Der Ruf followed “promptings by the Soviet authorities, provoked by Hans Werner Richter’s open letter to the French Stalinist, Marcel Cachin.”

Marcel Cachin b Meurisse 1918.jpg
Above: Marcel Cachin (1869 – 1958)

In the following years, Andersch worked with the literary circle Group 47, members of which included the authors Ingeborg Bachmann, Wolfgang Hildesheimer, Arno Schmidt, Hans Magnus Enzensberger and Helmut Heissenbüttel, among others.

Above: A plaque on the house at Bannwaldsee (near Füssen) commemorates the first Gruppe 47 meeting of 6-7 September 1947 where German-language writers met to discuss current trends in German literature

Above: The house of the first meeting of Gruppe 47

Graffiti portrait of Bachmann at the Robert Musil Museum in Klagenfurt
Above: Graffiti portrait of Ingeborg Bachmann (1926 – 1973), Austrian poet

Biografie von Wolfgang Hildesheimer - Valposchiavo
Above: Wolfgang Hildesheimer (1916 – 1991), German author

Above: Illustration of Arno Schmidt (1914 – 1979), German author

Hans Magnus Enzensberger in Warsaw, 2006.
Above: German writer Hans Magnus Enzensberger

Helmut Heißenbüttel-Homestory | NDR.de - Kultur - Sendungen - Feature
Above: Helmut Heissenbüttel (1921 – 1996)

1948 saw the publication of Andersch’s essay “Deutsche Literatur in der Entscheidung” (German Literature at the Turning Point), in which he concluded, in the spirit of the American post-war “re-education” programme, that literature would play a decisive role in the moral and intellectual changes in Germany.

Deutsche Literatur in der Entscheidung. Ein Beitrag zur Analyse der  literarischen Situation. : ANDERSCH, Alfred: Amazon.de: Bücher

Beginning in 1948, Andersch was a leading figure at radio stations in Frankfurt and Hamburg.

In 1950, he married the painter Gisela Dichgans.

Diogenes Verlag - Alfred Andersch

His autobiographical work Die Kirschen der Freiheit (The Cherries of Freedom) was published in 1952, in which Andersch dealt with the experience of his wartime desertion and interpreted it as the “turning point” (Entscheidung) at which he could first feel free.

Die Kirschen der Freiheit: Ein Bericht (detebe) : Andersch, Alfred:  Amazon.de: Bücher

On a similar theme, he published in 1957 perhaps the most significant work of his career, Sansibar oder der letzte Grund (Zanzibar and the last reason)(published in English as Flight to Afar).

Sansibar oder der letzte Grund : Andersch, Alfred: Amazon.de: Bücher

A few of Andersch’s books were turned into films.

From 1958, Andersch lived in Berzona, in Switzerland, where he became mayor in 1972.

Berzona – Veduta
Above: Berzona, Ticino, Switzerland

After Sansibar followed the novels Die Rote in 1960, Efraim in 1967, and, in 1974, Winterspelt, which is, thematically, very similar to Sansibar, but is more complex in its composition,  in which Andersch depicts a war situation with an assembly technique reminiscent of James Joyce, made up of comments, internal monologues and timely statements constructed in which desertion is played out as a possibility of individual and collective liberation.

Die Rote. Roman : Andersch, Alfred: Amazon.de: Bücher

Winterspelt : Andersch, Alfred: Amazon.de: Bücher

In Efraim, the protagonist is an emigrated Jewish journalist who makes a futile attempt to break out of his reality by introducing his self-obsessed person into the novel as a literary fictional character.

Diogenes Verlag - Efraim

For his radio play The Death of James Dean, he used texts by John Dos Passos, calling the play a radio montage.

Black-and-white portrait of James Dean wearing a bomber jacket and Lee jeans
Above: James Dean (1931 – 1955)

John dos Passos.jpg
Above: John dos Passos (1896 – 1970)

In 1977, he published the poetry anthology empört euch der himmel ist blau (indignant selves, the sky is blue).

empört euch der himmel ist blau. Gedichte und Nachdichtungen 1946 - 1977 :  Andersch, Alfred: Amazon.de: Bücher

Alfred Andersch died in Berzona.

The incomplete story Der Vater eines Mörders (The Father of a Murderer) was published posthumously in the same year.

Der Vater eines Mörders. Eine Schulgeschichte : Andersch, Alfred:  Amazon.de: Bücher

Hopefully I will always refuse to try to convince people. 

One can only try to show them the options from which to choose. 

That alone is presumptuous enough, because who knows the possibilities that the other has? 

The other is not only the fellow human being, but also the completely different one who can never be recognized. 

Except one loved him.”


– Alfred Andersch, The Cherries of Freedom and Selected Stories

Alfred Andersch : Ein Buch wie eine geladene Pistole | ZEIT ONLINE
Above: Alfred Andersch

I think of Andersch for his notion that desertion is sometimes necessary to discover one’s freedom.

I think of his phrase “the internal émigré” as fitting to my self-description, for I was unable to desert Switzerland physically until I had first left it behind emotionally and philosophically.

Flag of Switzerland
Above: Flag of Switzerland

In a way, freedom is like power.

Power is never given.

It is taken.

Freedom is never bestowed.

It is fought for and sought after.

And it is this simplest of social activities, this downing of drinks, this consumption of food, this expulsion of words, this expression of thought, this proletarian game of fake little men played by overgrown boys on a night lacking appointment or commitment that sets me free this evening.

Because I don’t have to think, I do.

Because I don’t have to prove myself, I do my best.

Because I don’t need to show my value to my friends, I try to show them how I value them.

The jukebox of my mind again plays another favourite tune that yet again is appropriate to the situation.

Like the pine trees linin’ the windin’ road
I got a name, I got a name
Like the singin’ bird and the croakin’ toad
I got a name, I got a name

And I carry it with me like my daddy did
But I’m livin’ the dream that he kept hid

Movin’ me down the highway
Rollin’ me down the highway
Movin’ ahead so life won’t pass me by

Like the north wind whistlin’ down the sky
I got a song, I got a song
Like the whirlpool whirl and the baby’s cry
I got a song, I got a song

And I carry it with me and I sing it loud
If it gets me nowhere, I’ll go there proud

Movin’ me down the highway
Rollin’ me down the highway
Movin’ ahead so life won’t pass me by

And I’m gonna go there free


Like the fool I am and I’ll always be
I got a dream, I got a dream
They can change their minds but they can’t change me
I got a dream, I got a dream

Oh, I know I could share it if you want me to
If you’re going my way, I’ll go with you


Movin’ me down the highway
Rollin’ me down the highway
Movin’ ahead so life won’t pass me by


Movin’ me down the highway
Rollin’ me down the highway
Movin’ ahead so life don’t pass me by

I Got a Name Single.jpg

The game ends too soon and the morning comes too swift.

All good things must reach their end.

But the memory of a pleasant pause after the workday reminds us of our common cause, our shared humanity.

To smile as the sun sets….

Not a bad way to end the day….

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / America, “Tin Man” / Beatles, “Nowhere Man” / Jim Croce, “I Got a Name” / Bob Dylan, “Blowin’ in the Wind” / Eagles, “New Kid in Town” / Kansas, “Dust in the Wind” / Nik Kershaw, “Wouldn’t It Be Good” / Yilmaz Büyukersen Wax Museum