Wonderwall

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Monday 21 November 2022

Above: Cover of the single “Wonderwall“, Oasis

I have next to no memory of Miami.

Above: Images of Miami, Florida

In my travels, in my 20s, my focus was on Fort Lauderdale where my mother is buried and the Overseas Highway to Key West.

Above: Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Above: Seeming to converge in the distance, the Seven-Mile Bridge on the Florida Keys Scenic Highway west of Marathon, Florida, runs parallel to the historic Flagler Railroad Bridge of the early 1900s with the Atlantic Ocean to the South and the Gulf of Mexico to the North.

There is little I regret about my hitch-hiking days, but the lack of money I possessed meant there were many places in America that I could not afford to visit in the manner I would have wished.

The Floridan cities I recall were cities either connected with the search for my mother’s roots or en route to somewhere else.

Above: Flag of Florida

My memories of Jacksonville, St. Augustine, Fort Lauderdale, Key West, St. Petersburg, Tarpon Springs, Port St. Joe and Fort Walton Beach are strong and stark in my mind.

Above: Images of Jacksonville, Florida

Above: Images of St. Augustine, Florida

Above: Aerial view of Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Above: Southernmost Point Buoy Monument, Key West, Florida

Above: St. Petersburg, Florida

Above: Tarpon Springs, Florida

Above: Port St. Joe, Florida

Above: Fort Walton Beach, Florida

My sole memory of Miami was trying to sleep under a tractor-trailer.

In retrospect, a dumb decision.

What little I saw of Miami remains a distorted blur at best.

I regret that, for there is much of Miami that appeals to me.

Above: Miami, Florida

Miami, officially the City of Miami, known as “the 305“, “The Magic City“, and “Gateway to the Americas” is a coastal metropolis and the county seat of Miami – Dade County in South Florida.

With a population of 442,241 (2020), it is the 2nd most populous city in Florida and the 11th most populous city in the southeastern United States.

The Miami metropolitan area is the 9th largest in the US, with a population of 6.138 million people (2020).

The city has the 3rd largest skyline in the US with over 300 skyscrapers, 58 of which exceed 491 ft (150 m).

Miami is a major center and leader in finance, commerce, culture, arts, and international trade.

Miami’s metropolitan area is by far the largest urban economy in Florida and the 12th largest in the US, with a GDP of $344.9 billion (2017).

According to a 2018 UBS study of 77 world cities, Miami is the 2nd richest city in the US and 3rd richest globally in purchasing power.

Miami has a Hispanic population of 310,472, or 70.2% of the city’s population (2020).

Above: Miami, Florida

Downtown Miami has one of the largest concentrations of international banks in the US and is home to many large national and international companies.

Above: Miami, Florida

The Health District is home to several major University of Miami-affiliated hospital and health facilities, including Jackson Memorial, the nation’s largest hospital with 1,547 beds, and the Leonard M. Miller School of Medicine, the University of Miami’s academic medical center and teaching hospital, and others engaged in health-related care and research. 

Above: Jackson Memorial Hospital, Miami, Florida

Port Miami, the city’s seaport, is the busiest cruise port in the world in both passenger traffic and cruise lines.

Above: Port of Miami, Miami, Florida

Miami is the 2nd largest tourism hub for international visitors, after New York City. 

Miami has sometimes been called the Gateway to Latin America because of the magnitude of its commercial and cultural ties to the region.

In 2019, Miami ranked 7th in the US in business activity, human capital, information exchange, cultural experience and political engagement.

Above: Miami, Florida

Miami – Dade College, with more than 165,000 students, is America’s largest institution of higher learning, and one of the country’s best community college systems.

This community college has locations in Hialeah, Homestead, Kendall, Downtown Miami, and North Miami as well as locations all around Miami proper.

In Coral Gables is the University of Miami, one of the best-known universities in Florida.

Above: Otto G. Richter Library, University of Miami, Coral Gables, Florida

One of the state’s largest universities, Florida International University (more commonly FIU), is in University Park, just to the west of the Miami city limits.

Miami was named in 1896 after the Miami River, derived from Mayaimi, the historic name of Lake Okeechobee and the Native Americans who lived around it.

Above: Mouth of the Miami River, Brickell Key, Florida

The Tequesta tribe occupied the Miami area for around 2,000 years before contact with Europeans.

A village of hundreds of people, dating to 600 BCE, was located at the mouth of the Miami River.

It is believed that the entire tribe migrated to Cuba by the mid-1700s.

Above: Bronze statue of a Tequesta warrior and his family on the Brickell Avenue Bridge, Miami, Florida 

In 1566, Admiral Pedro Menéndez de Avilés, Florida’s first governor, claimed the area for Spain.

Above: Pedro Menéndez de Avilés (1519 – 1574)

Above: Flag of the Spanish Empire (1492 – 1976)

A Spanish mission was constructed one year later.

Spain and Britain successively ruled Florida until Spain ceded it to the United States in 1821.

In 1836, the US built Fort Dallas on the banks of the Miami River as part of their development of the Florida Territory and their attempt to suppress and remove the Seminoles.

As a result, the Miami area became a site of fighting in the Second Seminole War (1835 – 1842), “the longest and most costly of the Indian conflicts of the United States”.

Above: Lummus Park Historic District, Miami, Florida –  Old plantation slave quarters, moved here from Fort Dallas

Above: This view of a Seminole village shows the log cabins they lived in prior to the disruptions of the Second Seminole War.

Miami is noted as the only major city in the United States founded by a woman. 

Julia Tuttle, a local citrus grower and a wealthy Cleveland native, was the original owner of the land upon which the city was built.

In the late 19th century, the area was known as “Biscayne Bay Country“.

Reports described it as a promising wilderness and “one of the finest building sites in Florida“.

The Great Freeze of 1894 – 1895 hastened Miami’s growth, as the crops there were the only ones in Florida that survived.

Above: Damage to an orange grove because of cold – Bartow, Florida – 1 January 1895

(Orlando reached an all-time record low of 18 °F (−8 °C) on 29 December 1894.

Above: Orlando, Florida

In the second cold wave (1895), West Palm Beach recorded all time record low of 27 °F (−3 °C) on 9 February 1895.

Above: West Palm Beach, Florida

A snowstorm produced unprecedented snowfall amounts along the Gulf Coast, including 22 inches (56 cm) in Houston, Texas.

Above: States that border the Gulf of Mexico are shown in red.

Above: Houston, Texas

Snow fell as far south as Tampico, Mexico, within the Tropic of Cancer, the lowest latitude in North America that snow has been recorded at sea level.)

Above: Plaza de la Libertad, Centro Historico, Tampico, Tamaulipas State, Mexico

Above: World map with the Tropic of Cancer (red line)

Julia Tuttle subsequently convinced railroad tycoon Henry Flagler to extend his Florida East Coat Railway to the region, for which she became known as “the mother of Miami“.

Above: Henry Morrison Flagler (1830 – 1913)

Above: Route of the Florida East Coast Railroad (red line)

Miami was officially incorporated as a city on 28 July 1896, with a population of just over 300.

African American labor played a crucial role in Miami’s early development.

Above: Julia DeForest Tuttle (1849 – 1898)

During the early 20th century, migrants from the Bahamas and African Americans constituted 40% of the city’s population. 

Despite their role in the city’s growth, their community was limited to a small space.

When landlords began to rent homes to African-Americans around Avenue J (what would later become NW Fifth Avenue), a gang of white men with torches marched through the neighborhood and warned the residents to move or be bombed.

Above: Avenue J, Miami, Florida

Miami prospered during the 1920s with an increase in population and development in infrastructure as northerners moved to the city.

The legacy of Jim Crow was embedded in these developments.

The Jim Crow laws were state and local laws enforcing racial segregation in the Southern US.

Above: Cover to early edition of “Jump Jim Crow” sheet music – Thomas D. Rice (1908 – 1960) is pictured in his blackface role:

He was performing at the Bowery Theatre (New York City)(also known as the “American Theatre“) at the time.

This image was highly influential on later Jim Crow and minstrelsy images.

Miami’s chief of police at the time, Howard Leslie Quigg, did not hide the fact that he, like many other white Miami police officers, was a member of the Ku Klux Klan.

Unsurprisingly, these officers enforced social codes far beyond the written law.

Quigg, for example, “personally and publicly beat a colored bellboy to death for speaking directly to a white woman“.

Above: Howard Leslie Quigg (1888 – 1980)

Above: Flag of the Ku Klux Klan

The collapse of the Florida land boom of the 1920s, the 1926 Miami Hurricane, and the Great Depression in the 1930s slowed development.

(The Florida land boom of the 1920s was Florida’s first real estate bubble.

This pioneering era of Florida land speculation lasted from 1924 to 1926 and attracted investors from all over the nation.

The land boom left behind entirely new, planned developments incorporated into towns and cities.

Major investors and speculators left behind a new history of racially deed restricted properties that segregated cities for decades.

Among those cities at the center of this bubble were Miami Beach, Coral Gables, Hialeah, Miami Springs, Opa-locka, Miami Shores and Hollywood.

Above: Miami Beach, Florida

Above: Coral Gables, Florida

Above: Palm Avenue, Hialeah, Florida

Above: Hialeah Park taken in the 1930s, “Hialeah Park, Fla., the world’s greatest race course, Miami Jockey Club.

Above: The Glenn H. Curtiss House, located at 500 Deer Run in Miami Springs, Florida, was built in 1925 by aviation pioneer and real estate developer Glenn Hammond Curtiss (1878 – 1930).

It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2001.

Above: City Hall, Opa Locka, Florida

Above: Downtown, Miami Shores, Florida

Above: Hollywood, Florida

It also left behind the remains of failed development projects such as:

  • Aladdin City

Above: Original lot plan of Aladdin City (originally platted and still existing streets in green), 1 January 1927

  • Fulford-by-the-Sea

Above: Fulford by the Sea Monument, North Miami Beach, Florida

  • Isola di Lolando

Above: Isola di Lolando is an unfinished artificial island in Biscayne Bay, Florida.

Hurricane damage and economic collapse caused the project to be abandoned shortly after the start of construction, but pilings remain visible in the bay and are a hazard to navigation.

  • Boca Raton

Above: Boca Raton, Florida

  • Okeelanta

Above: Photograph of the house of Thomas E. Will, the founder of Okeelanta, Florida, the Everglades’ first planned community, on the North New River Canal in Okeelanta, 9 September 1916

  • Palm Beach Ocean

Above: Sailfish Marina, Singer Island (Palm Beach Ocean), Florida

The land boom shaped Florida’s future for decades and created entire new cities out of the Everglades land that remain today.

The story includes many parallels to the real estate boom of the 2000s, including the forces of outside speculators, easy credit access for buyers, and rapidly appreciating property values, ending in a financial collapse that ruined thousands of investors and property owners, and crippled the local economy for years thereafter.

Proving once again the adage that those who do not learn from history was destined to repeat it.)

(The Great Miami Hurricane of 1926 was a large and intense tropical cyclone that devastated the Greater Miami area and caused catastrophic damage in the Bahamas and the US Gulf Coast in September 1926, accruing a US $100 million damage toll.

As a result of the devastation wrought by the hurricane in Florida, the Land Boom in Florida ended.

The hurricane represented an early start to the Great Depression in the aftermath of the state’s 1920s land boom.

It has been estimated that a similar hurricane would cause about $235 billion in damage if it were to hit Miami today.)

Above: Damage from 1926 hurricane, Miami Beach, Florida

(The Great Depression was a period of great economic depression worldwide between 1929 and 1939 became evident after a major fall in stock prices in the US.

The economic contagion began around September and led to the Wall Street stock market crash of 24 October 1929 (Black Thursday).

The economic shock impacted most countries across the world to varying degrees.

It was the longest, deepest, and most widespread depression of the 20th century.

Between 1929 and 1932, worldwide gross domestic price (GDP) fell by an estimated 15%.

By comparison, worldwide GDP fell by less than 1% from 2008 to 2009 during the Great Recession.

Some economies started to recover by the mid-1930s.

However, in many countries, the negative effects of the Great Depression lasted until the beginning of World War II. 

Devastating effects were seen in both rich and poor countries with falling personal income, prices, tax revenues, and profits.

International trade fell by more than 50%, unemployment in the US rose to 23% and in some countries rose as high as 33%.

Cities around the world were hit hard, especially those dependent on heavy industry.

Construction was virtually halted in many countries.

Farming communities and rural areas suffered as crop prices fell by about 60%.

Faced with plummeting demand and few job alternatives, areas dependent on primary sector industries suffered the most.

Economic historians usually consider the catalyst of the Great Depression to be the sudden devastating collapse of US stock market prices, starting on 24 October 1929.

However, some dispute this conclusion, seeing the stock crash less as a cause of the Depression and more as a symptom of the rising nervousness of investors partly due to gradual price declines caused by falling sales of consumer goods (as a result of overproduction because of new production techniques, falling exports and income inequality, among other factors) that had already been underway as part of a gradual Depression.)

Above: Poor mother and children during the Great Depression. Elm Grove, Oklahoma County, Oklahoma, 1 August 1936

It was the city’s support of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s New Deal that helped the city rebuild.

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945) (US President: 1933 – 1945)

Roosevelt almost lost his life, however, when Giuseppe Zangara attempted to assassinate Roosevelt when he came to Miami to thank the city for its support of the New Deal.

On 15 February 1933, 17 days before Roosevelt’s inauguration, during an impromptu speech at night from the back of an open car by Roosevelt, Zangara fired five shots with a handgun he had purchased a couple of days before.

Zangara, armed with a .32-caliber pistol he had bought for $8 (equivalent to $170 in 2021) at a local pawn shop, joined the crowd of spectators, but as he was only 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, he was unable to see over other people and had to stand on a wobbly metal folding chair, peering over the hat of Lillian Cross to get a clear aim at his target.

He placed his gun over Mrs. Cross’ right shoulder.

(She was only about 4 inches taller than he was and weighed 105 pounds)

After Zangara fired the first shot, Cross and others grabbed his arm, and he fired four more shots wildly.

Five people were hit:

  • Mrs. Joseph H. Gill (seriously wounded in the abdomen)
  • Miss Margaret Kruis of Newark, New Jersey (minor wound in hand and a scalp wound)
  • New York detective/bodyguard William Sinnott (superficial head wound)
  • Russell Caldwell of Miami (flesh wound on the forehead)
  • Chicago Mayor Anton Cermak, who was standing on the running board of the car next to Roosevelt.
  • Mrs Cross had powder burns on her right cheek.
  • Secret Service agent Bob Clark had a grazed hand, possibly caused by the bullet that struck Cermak. 
  • The intended target, Roosevelt, was unharmed.

Roosevelt cradled the mortally wounded Cermak in his arms as the car rushed to the hospital.

After arriving there, Cermak spoke to Roosevelt, and before he died 19 days later, allegedly uttered the line that is engraved on his tomb:

I’m glad it was me, not you.

Above: Anton Cermak (1873 – 1933)

Above: Giuseppe Zangara (1900 – 1933)

The New Deal was a series of programs, public work projects, financial reforms, and regulations enacted between 1933 and 1939.

Major federal programs agencies included the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) (1933 – 1942), the Works Progress Administration (WPA) (1935 – 1943), the Civil Works Administration (CWA) (1933 – 1934), the Farm Security Administration (FSA) (1937 – 1946), the National Industrial Recovery Act of 1933 (NIRA) and the Social Security Administration (SSA).

They provided support for farmers, the unemployed, youth, and the elderly.

The New Deal included new constraints and safeguards on the banking industry and efforts to re-inflate the economy after prices had fallen sharply.

New Deal programs included both laws passed by Congress as well as presidential executive orders.

Above; Construction of the Huntsville High School athletic field (Goldsmith-Schiffman Stadium) in Huntsville, Alabama

Above: NRA (National Recovery Administration) member: We Do Our Part

When World War II (1939 – 1945) began, Miami became a base for US defense against German submarines due to its prime location on the southern coast of Florida.

When a German U-boat sank a US tanker off Florida’s coast, the majority of South Florida was converted into military headquarters for the remainder of World War II.

The Army’s World War II legacy in Miami is a school designed for anti-U-boat warfare.

Above: German U-boat submarine

This brought an increase in Miami’s population:

172,172 people lived in the city by 1940.

The city’s nickname, The Magic City, came from its rapid growth, which was noticed by winter visitors who remarked that the city grew so much from one year to the next that it was like magic.

After Fidel Castro rose to power in Cuba following the Cuban Revolution (1953 – 1959), many wealthy Cubans sought refuge in Miami, further increasing the city’s population.

Above: Fidel Castro (1926 – 2016)

Above: Flag of Cuba

Miami developed new businesses and cultural amenities as part of the New South in the 1980s and 1990s.

At the same time, South Florida weathered social problems related to drug wars, immigration from Haiti and Latin America, and the widespread destruction of Hurricane Andrew.

Above: Title screen, TV series Miami Vice (1984 – 1989)

Above: Movie poster, Miami Vice (2006)

Above: Flag of Haiti

Above: Hurricane Andrewnear peak intensity east of the Bahamas, 23 August 1992

Racial and cultural tensions sometimes sparked, but the city developed in the latter half of the 20th century as a major international, financial, and cultural center.

It is the second-largest US city with a Spanish-speaking majority (after El Paso, Texas), and the largest city with a Cuban-American plurality.

Above: El Paso, Texas

If you are not from the US but wish to work here, you will need a work visa. 

If you try to work while holding a tourist visa, you are still considered an illegal immigrant in the US.

Above: Sample of a tourist visa

The Immigration and Nationalization Services (INS) conduct frequent illegal immigrant checks in Miami businesses since Miami has numerous refugees from Cuba, Haiti and other nearby countries.

If you don’t have the right visa, you may not get a job in Miami.

There is an exception to getting work without a visa in Miami, however.

Above: Miami, Florida

Since yachts and cruise ships sail on international waters, these companies can freely hire any person they like.

Non-US citizens will still require a valid seaman’s visa, however, to land in US ports.

Above: Sample of a seafarer’s visa

I haven’t the foggiest idea of how to obtain such a prize, but my understanding is that apart from introducing yourself to boat owners at the docks, the primary ways to find a crewing position in the US are by registering with a crewing agency, staying in a crew house where you are likely to hear of forthcoming vacancies, answering an advert on a yachting website or hanging around a yachting supply store, some of which have noticeboards.

If intending to sign up with a crewing agency, it is essential to do so in person.

At that time you can enquire about visas, though you are likely to be told that it is permissible to join the crew of a foreign-registered yacht on a tourist visa provided you don’t cruise in American waters for longer than 29 days (whereupon you should have a B-1 business visa).

A number of crewing agencies are located north of Miami in Fort Lauderdale, the yachting capital of Florida, including Crewfinders and Elite Crew International.

The website Crewfinders International has links to accommodation for people seeking crew positions.

People working or staying at one of the many crew houses in Fort Lauderdale will soon tell you the agencies with which it is worth registering.

Experienced crew often bypass the agencies and simply ask captains directly.

Cooks are especially in demand.

Above: Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Foodies and chefs alike herald Miami for its unique American cuisine.

Created in the 1990s, the cuisine alternatively known as New World, Nuevo Latino or Flori-bbean cuisine blends local produce, Latin American and Caribbean culinary tradition and the technical skills required in European cooking.

Above: Mangu with veggie meat

Above: Asado Uruguayo

Above: Sweet potato crusted salmon on salad

Miami may be known for its Latin American cuisine (especially its Cuban cuisine but also cuisines from South American countries such as Colombia), but there are other different kinds of restaurants to be found around the city.

In addition to stand-alone Chinese, Japanese, Middle Eastern, and Italian (among others) restaurants, there are cafés, steakhouses and restaurants operating from boutique hotels, as well as chain restaurants such as TGI Fridays and Ben & Jerry’s.

Above: Tropical Chinese Restaurant Yorumlari, Miami, Florida

Above: Doraku Japanese Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Above: Layali Middle Eastern Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Above: Alloy Italian Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Miami is known for having nightclubs double as restaurants throughout the city.

Most of these restaurants, such as Tantra, BED and the Pearl Restaurant and Champagne Lounge (attached to Nikki Beach), are found throughout South Beach.

Above: B.E.D. Restaurant, Miami, Florida

Above: Pearl Restaurant, Miami, Florida

However, some of these restaurants/nightclubs like Grass Lounge can be found in the Design District (north of downtown but south of North Miami).

Above: Grass Restaurant, Miami, Florida

If many of Miami’s premiere restaurants don’t fit into your daily budget, consider eating during Miami Restaurant Month (better known as Miami Spice) in August and September.

Miami’s dining scene reflects burgeoning diversity, mixing exotic newcomer restaurants with long-standing institutions, often seasoned by Latin influence and hot winds of the Caribbean.

New World cuisine, a culinary counterpart to accompany Miami’s New World Symphony, provides a loose fusion of Latin, Asian, and Caribbean flavors utilizing fresh, area-grown ingredients.

Innovative restaurateurs and chefs similarly reel in patrons with Floribbean-flavored seafood fare, while keeping true to down-home Florida favorites.

Don’t be fooled by the plethora of super lean model types you’re likely to see posing throughout Miami.

Contrary to popular belief, dining in this city is as much a sport as the in-line skating on Ocean Drive.

With over 6,000 restaurants to choose from, dining out in Miami has become a passionate pastime for locals and visitors alike.

Its star chefs have fused Californian-Asian with Caribbean and Latin elements to create a world-class flavor all its own: Floribbean.

Think mango chutney splashed over fresh swordfish or a spicy sushi sauce served alongside Peruvian ceviche.

Whatever you’re craving, Miami’s got it — with the exception of decent Chinese food and a New York-style slice of pizza.

On the mainland — especially in Coral Gables, and, more recently, downtown and on Brickell Avenue — you can also experience fine, creative dining without the pretense.

There are several Peruvian restaurants in Kendale Lakes, out of the way, but worth it.

Nightlife in Miami consists of upscale hotel clubs, independent bars frequented by locals (including sports bars) and nightclubs.

Most hotel bars and independent bars turn the other cheek at your physical appearance, but you have to dress to impress (which does not mean dress like a stripper) to get into a nightclub.

Also remember to never, under any circumstances, insult the doormen and/or nightclub employees that will grant you entry or touch the velvet ropes or you may as well be sitting on the opposite side of the clamoring masses trying to get in.

Attempting to tip the doormen and claiming that you know employees that work in the nightclubs (unless you actually called and reserved a table or a spot on the VIP list) is also considered an affront.

Getting to the club unfashionably early and pushing through the crowd (and not the doormen) also can help make you stand out in the crowd.

Finally, most nightclubs won’t admit groups of men unless those men are waiting in front of a gay bar.

Bring some women or leave the pack if you’re desperate to get in.

And once you get in, remember that the charge to get in these clubs can cost up to $20 — cash only (some clubs, however, mercifully have ATMs — that can charge up to $7 for a withdrawal).

Popular drinks in Miami include the Cuba Libre and the mojito.

Above: Cuba Libre

Above: Mojito

Although tourists generally consider Miami Beach to be part of Miami, Miami Beach is its own municipality.

Miami Beach sits on a barrier island east of Miami and Biscayne Bay.

It is home to lots of beach resorts and is one of the most popular spring break party destinations in the world.

But I don’t want to talk about Miami Beach, only Miami itself.

Above: Miami Beach, Florida

Some other sights associated with Miami, like the Miami Zoo and the Miami Dolphins football team, are in other suburbs within Miami – Dade County, and two other institutions associated with Miami, the Florida Panthers hockey team and Inter Miami CF soccer team, play home games in Broward County.

Above: Logo of the Miami Dolphins National Football League (NFL) team

Above: Logo of the Florida Panthers National Hockey League (NHL) team

Why there is hockey in tropical places still mystifies me.

The City of Miami is divided into seven districts: Downtown, MiMo Boulevard, the Design District, Coconut Grove, Little Havana, Overtown and Midtown.

Downtown is Miami’s Central Business District (CBD) with its skies full of scrapers.

Above: Downtown Miami

MiMo is home to post WW2 modern architecture.

Above: MiMo District, Miami

The Design District is a small artsy neighbourhood north of Downtown.

Above: Design District, Miami

Coconut Grove is a cosmopolitan community on the coast south of Downtown.

Above: Coconut Grove

Little Havana is a heavily Latin American neighborhood – now inhabited by Central and South Americans rather than Cubans.

Above: Little Havana, Miami

Overtown is a historic African-American neighborhood.

Midtown is….well, Midtown.

Above: Midtown Miami

The city has also been the base for cocaine smuggling, depicted in the 1983 film Scarface.

Miami’s crime rate is a routine topic of news media, but the city is only relatively dangerous for the passing tourist in certain areas.

Almost all crime is related to the illegal drug trade, owing to Miami’s proximity to the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, which makes it a major transit point for narcotics from South America. 

Overtown (next to Liberty City) has the highest violent crime rate in the city and is best avoided altogether.

Above: Overtown, Miami, Florida

Opalocka / Miami Garden and Little Haiti are also best avoided at night.

Above: Opalocka, Florida

Above: Miami Garden, Florida

Above: Little Haiti, Miami, Florida

If you are in any crime-afflicted neighborhood, take the same precautions as you would in other dangerous neighborhoods in the US:

Mind your own business.

Be aware of your surroundings at night and in high-traffic areas.

Get to your destination quickly.

Avoid wearing flashy jewelry and electronics.

Because of its proximity to the Tropic of Cancer, Miami is generally hot.

The summer months of June–September will see most daytime highs over 90°F (32°C).

Combined with the region’s humidity, these can make for stifling temperatures, both day and night.

You won’t see nearly a car or home without running air conditioning.

Winters average an impressive 75°F (24°C) for daytime temperatures and nights are slightly cooler.

During June to November, rain and thunderstorms can be expected and are most common in the afternoon hours.

Rain is known to fall heavily for a few minutes, to stop entirely, and then to begin again.

Knowing its mercurial nature, local residents often drive or go outside in rainy weather to enjoy its cooling effect or to make good use of breaks in the storm.

Above: Miami, Florida

Miami has the largest Latin American population outside of Latin America, with nearly 65% of its population either from Latin America or of Latin American ancestry. 

Spanish is a language often used for day-to-day discourse in many places, although English is the language of preference, especially when dealing with business and government.

Many locals do not speak English, but this is usually centered among shops and restaurants in residential communities and rarely the case in large tourist areas or the downtown district.

Even when encountering a local who does not speak English, you can easily find another local to help with translation if needed, since most of the population is fluently bilingual.

In certain neighborhoods, such as Little Havana and Hialeah, most locals will address a person first in Spanish and then in English.

Spanglish“, a mixture of English and Spanish, is a somewhat common occurrence (but less so than in the American Southwest), with bilingual locals switching between English and Spanish mid-sentence and occasionally replacing a common English word for its Spanish equivalent and vice versa.

Haitian Creole is another language heard primarily in northern Miami.

It is common for a person to hear a conversation in this French-based Creole when riding public transportation or sitting at a restaurant.

Many signs and public announcements are in English, Spanish and Haitian Creole because of Miami’s diverse immigrant population.

Unlike Spanish, Haitian Creole is generally centered among the Haitian neighborhoods in northern Miami.

Most Haitians are more adapted to English than their Hispanic neighbors. 

Above: Location of Haiti (in green)

Portuguese and French are other languages that may be encountered in Miami.

These languages tend to be spoken mainly around tourist areas.

Most speakers of these languages speak English as well.

Above: Map of the Portuguese language in the world   Dark green: Native language.   Green: Official and administrative language.   Light Green: Cultural or secondary language.   Yellow: Portuguese-based creole. Green square: Portuguese speaking minorities.

Above: The French language in the world

Graffiti is art that is written, painted or drawn on a wall or other surface, usually without permission and within public view. 

Graffiti ranges from simple written words to elaborate wall paintings.

It has existed since ancient times, with examples dating back to ancient Egypt, ancient Greece and the Roman Empire.

Graffiti is a controversial subject.

In most countries, marking or painting property without permission is considered by property owners and civic authorities as defacement and vandalism, which it is a punishable crime, citing the use of graffiti by street gangs to mark territory or to serve as an indicator of gang-related activities.

Graffiti has become visualized as a growing urban “problem” for many cities in industrialized nations, spreading from the New York City subway system and Philadelphia in the early 1970s to the rest of the United States and Europe and other world regions.

Above: A former roof felt factory in Santalahti, Tampere, Finland. Most of the building, inside and outside, is covered in graffiti.

Graffiti is free speech, publicly expressed.

Graffiti is a protest against property, against ownership, against authority.

It is a defiance of punishment, of territory, of dominance.

It is visualized as a growing urban problem when it might be better defined as a challenge to the growing problems of urbanization.

Above: Graffiti on a wall in Čakovec, Croatia

The first known example of “modern style” graffiti survives in the ancient Greek city of Ephesus (in modern-day Türkiye).

Local guides say it is an advertisement for prostitution.

Above: Ephesus graffiti

Sometimes I wonder if modern style has become an advertisement for prostitution.

Men are quite capable of providing for themselves.

It should be impossible to bribe him.

He would, in fact, be above bribery altogether were it not for one basic need which has to be satisfied.

The need for physical contact with a woman’s body.

This need is so strong and its fulfillment gives men such intense pleasure that one suspects that it might be the sole reason for his voluntary enslavement to women.

His longing for this subjection may even be a facet of his sexual make-up.

The basis of any economy is a system of barter.

Therefore, someone demanding a service must be able to offer something of equal value in exchange for it, but as a man must fulfill his sexual desires and since he tends to want to possess exclusive rights of access to one woman, the prices have risen to an extortionate level.

This has made it possible for women to follow a system of exploitation.

No man remains exempt.

The concept of femininity is essentially sociological, not biological.

Even a homosexual is unlikely to escape without paying his dues.

The partner whose sexual drive is less developed quickly discovers the weak points of the other, whose drive is more intense, and manipulates him accordingly.

A man could, should, condition his sexual needs, but instead he allows them to be encouraged whenever possible – by women, since their interests are mainly directed towards a man’s libido.

Man is never dressed in such a way as to awaken sexual desire in the opposite sex, but it is very much the contrary with women.

The curves of breast and hip are exaggerated by tight-fitting clothes.

The length of leg, the shape of calf and ankle are enhanced.

Her lips and eyes beckon, moist with make-up.

Her hair gleams.

And to what purpose?

To stimulate desire for her.

Woman offers her wares like goods in a shop window, but one must pay for such alluring merchandise.

No money, no merchandise.

No wonder men think that is no greater happiness than to make enough money to take the merchandise home.

Reward a man with sex and he will be more obedient to a woman.

The whole world beckons with the promise of adventure.

Yet so strong is his sex drive that he gladly foregoes the world for a woman.

But a woman can never be a substitute for what he has lost.

Everything follows a strict system of supply and demand.

She will give him sex if he does whatever she demands.

The rules are rigid.

Surprise is small and scarcely significant.

Control his manhood, control the man.

Imagine a world where women were not merely walking advertisements for sex, not merely the graffiti of society.

Imagine a world where men were not obsessed with sex.

Man is a thinking creature.

He has a thirst for knowledge.

He wants to know what the world around him looks like and how it functions.

He draws conclusions from the data he encounters.

He makes something new out of the information achieved from his conclusions.

As a result of his exceptionally wide, multidimensional emotional scale, he not only registers the commonplace in fine gradations, but he creates and discovers new emotional values and makes them accessible to others through sensible descriptions or recreates them as an artist.

Above: Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

I am in no way suggesting that the above descriptions are true for all men nor am I suggesting that they cannot be true for women.

What I am saying is that potential is determined by one’s choices and that more people choose the path of least resistance – men’s subjugation to the societal standards set by women and women choosing comfort over complication.

Man’s curiosity is the most impressive quality of all.

Too many women take an interest only in subjects that have an immediate personal usefulness to her.

Man’s curiosity is something quite different.

His desire for knowledge has no personal implications, is purely objective and, in the long run, is more practical than a woman’s attitude.

Man’s curiosity is universal.

There is almost nothing that does not interest him.

Even subjects out of his province hold his interest.

Men not only observe the world around them, it is in their nature to make comparisons and to apply the knowledge they have gained themselves with the ultimate aim to transform this knowledge into something else, something new.

Men and woman have the exact same potential.

But they don’t make the same choices.

Practically all the inventions and discoveries in this world have been made by men.

Why is that?

Certainly where women have been suppressed, her opportunities to use her potential have been denied.

But in nations where women are more free, still many women choose to deny their potential and seek to be provided for rather than risk the difficulties of struggling along without a male companion.

With his many gifts man would appear to be ideally suited, both mentally and physically, to lead a life both fulfilled and free.

Instead he serves those who will not (women) or cannot (children) lead and calls this service noble.

Man who is capable of leading a life that is perfect as possible gladly gives that potential up to offer himself up to the female sex who cannot see man’s potential beyond how it serves her.

Man has come into the world to learn, to work and to father children.

His sons, in their turn, will learn to work and produce children.

Such has it ever been, such will it ever be.

If a young man gets married, starts a family and spends the rest of his life working at a soul-destroying job, he is held up as an example of virtue and responsibility.

The other type of man, living only for himself, working only for himself, sleeping where and when he wants, and facing women where he meets her, on equal terms and not as her servant, is rejected by society.

The free unshackled man has no place in its midst.

How depressing it is to see men, year after year, betraying all that they were born to.

New worlds could be discovered, worlds one hardly dares even to dream of could be opened by the minds, strength and intelligence of men.

Things to make life fuller and richer – their own life – and more worthwhile could be developed.

Instead, they forsake all these tremendous potentials and permit their minds and bodies to be shunted onto sidings to serve the animal existence and needs of entitled women.

With his mind, his strength and his imagination, all intended for the creation of new worlds, he opts instead for the preservation and improvement of the old.

We are so accustomed to men doing everything with women in view that anything else seems unthinkable.

Couldn’t composers create something apart from love songs?

Couldn’t writers give up their romantic novels and love poems and write literature?

Can painters only produce nudes and profiles of women, abstract or realistic?

Why can’t we have something new after all these millennia, something we have never seen before?

Imagine a world where men really used their intelligence and imagination instead of wasting it.

Imagine a world where men try living themselves.

Instead of making wars destined only to defend property, men should be travelling to worlds never dreamed of.

I am all for women’s equality, if only they would step up and do for themselves all that they demand from men.

But the prevailing attitude in the West is:

Why should they?

Policies for marriage, divorce, inheritance, motherhood, widowhood, old age and life ensure her increasing wealth.

They have complete psychological control over men and increasingly material control as well.

While men foolishly believe in their subjugation that they are responsible for the suppression of women, who, if they so choose could use their equal potential for the benefit of all humankind not just the individual woman.

There is this prevailing attitude that women are charming gracious creatures, fairy princesses, angels from another world, too good for men themselves and for their earthly existence.

While the reverse is true.

Men pointlessly wonder why they are not good enough for a woman upon whom he has set his sights, while never stopping to consider that she might not be good enough for him.

Besides beauty – beauty wiped away with a wet tissue, for, like men, most women are average – and booty, what else does she bring to a man’s life?

We truly want to believe that there is more.

Often we are sadly disappointed.

Tear off their masks and their tinkling bracelets, their frilly blouses and gold-leather sandals.

What is left?

Unused potential, deliberately dampened for material comfort.

Men as thinking creatures sense this disparity and young men express it.

Above: Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa

Throughout history, all the peoples of the Earth have practised some kind of religion.

It has been a central force in their lives.

The caves of Lascaux with their beautiful animal paintings – perhaps early graffiti? – are our earliest records of masculine ritual.

Above: Lascaux painting

In Aboriginal society, religious and associated cultural practices took up 70% of the time of mature men.

Even today, in spite of the divisions and bigotries that religion can foster, the forces of good – from social welfare to world peace – have a strong religious component.

The most potent and effective men and women are those with religious underpinnings to their life.

Why does religion matter?

Often we feel lost and confused and cannot figure our lives out.

At other times there is a feeling that is elusive but unmistakable:

That life is beautiful and that you are in the flow of things.

Ordinary ups and downs, pains and pleasures don’t matter when you feel you are on the right track.

Spirituality” simply means the direct experience of something special in life and living.

Religion – organized group activity and ritual – is an attempt to hold on to that feeling and make it last.

Religion is a container, which sometimes can capture the quicksilver of real spiritual experience and sometimes cannot.

People today have lost touch with the possibilities of ritual.

They think it has no use.

Group efforts are important ways to help each other stay focused on what matters, put a spiritual depth into our lives and pull our perspective back to the big picture and away from trivial concerns.

The brand of religion is not so important.

The true differences between religions are only differences of style and technique.

Any spiritual path will do.

We seek the connection beyond words with the holy, the ineffable, the unspeakable.

It is through giving into that deep desire that we feel our grief, our joy and our anger.

The longing for connection can take us out of our personal dramas and into our deepest feelings.

Then we feel alive and human, full of rich emotional experience.

Above: Albrecht Dürer’s Praying Hands

But the majority believe in nothing.

As a result, we are ill-equipped to answer or handle any of life’s deeper questions.

Modern man, for all his bravado, is very frail in the face of difficulties.

Suicide, cynicism, greed, addiction, wait close by.

The writing is on the wall.

We scream, silently, living lives of quiet desperation.

I view graffiti as potential poetry.

And a poet’s job is not to save the soul of a man, but to make it worth saving.

Artists, great and small, deserve acclaim, because they show us the world in a way that is fresh, appreciative and alive.

The opposite of art is habit.

Much of life is ruined for us by a blanket or shroud of familiarity that descends between us and everything that matters.

Habit dulls our senses and stops us appreciating everything, from the beauty of a sunset to our work and our friends.

Above: Sunset, Miami, Florida

Children don’t suffer from habit, which is why they get excited by some very key but simple things, like puddles, jumping on the bed, sand, and fresh bread.

But we adults get spoiled about everything, which is why we seek ever more powerful stimulants (like fame and love).

The trick is to recover the powers of appreciation of a child in adulthood to strip the veil of habit and therefore to start to appreciate daily life with a new sensitivity.

This is what one group in the population does all the time:

Artists.

Above: Street art, Cancun, Mexico

Artists are people who know how to strip habit away and return life to its glory, when they show us water lilies or services stations or buildings in a new light.

Above: Claude Monet, The Water Lilies – Setting Sun, 1926, Musée de l’Orangerie, Paris, France

Above: Edward Hopper, Gas, 1940, Museum of Modern Art, New York City, New York, USA

Above: Street art, Budapest, Hungary

The goal is not that we should necessarily make art or be someone who hangs out in museums all the time.

Above: Vincent van Gogh (1853 – 1890), Self Portrait, 1889

Above: Pierce Brosnan (Thomas Crown), Scene from The Thomas Crown Affair (1999)

Above: Vincent van Gogh, Noon – rest after work, 1890

The idea is to get us to look at the world, our world, with some of the same generosity as an artist, which would mean taking pleasure in simple things, like water, the sky, or a shaft of light on a piece of paper.

To know how to bring out the charm and the value of the everyday, like reading in a train, driving at night, smelling flowers in springtime, and looking at the changing light of the sun on the sea.

To be filled with hope and gratitude.

Life is not necessarily dull and without excitement.

It is just that one forgets to look at it in the right way.

We forget what being alive, fully alive, actually feels like.

To appreciate life with greater intensity.

It is not life which is mediocre so much as the image of it we possess.

The reason why life may be judged to be trivial, although at certain moments it seems to us so beautiful, is that we form our judgment ordinarily not on the evidence of life itself, but in its quite different images which preserve nothing of life.

Therefore, we judge it disparagingly.

That is why artists, great and small, are so important.

Their work reminds us that life is truly beautiful, fascinating and complex.

And thereby they dispel our boredom and ingratitude.

Art brings the beauty and interest of the world back to life.

Your senses are reawakened, extolling you to learn to appreciate existence before it is too late.

Many men, if questioned, locate the purpose for their lives, not in a spiritual path, but in pursuing the wellbeing of their families.

They live for their family.

While it is socially appropriate and healthy to dedicate several decades of our lives to meeting our family’s needs and enjoying the rewards of this, it is, however, very easy to lose one’s sense of self at the same time.

There are two questions a man must ask himself:

Where am I going?

Who will go with me?

In that order of importance.

Get these questions in the wrong order and the result is pain.

Where am I going? is the critical question.

Where have I come from? might hold some of the answers.

We need to borrow the wisdom of our ancestors if we are to avoid being the generation that let the fires of survival go out.

Ancient man was an environmentalist who knew how to thrive in the natural world in a sustainable way.

Since the environment is now the biggest concern facing mankind today we clearly need all the help we can get.

Our ultimate job is to preserve life.

This can only be done well with a source of energy and direction.

Living a life that makes ecological sense is not just a technical challenge but involves an inner change of orientation.

The biologist who goes out to study the rainforest from an objective point of view comes back changed by the experience.

The nights under the massive forest canopy and the days peering into nature’s mysteries capture his soul.

He changes into a passionate and newly balanced man.

Perhaps the needs of our time will transform our existing religions to something more vibrant and purposeful by turning more to nature and wildness and less to dogma and intellectual head-scratching.

I am attracted to nature by the wildness in my own nature.

I do not claim to be religious at all, yet the wilderness and the ocean are my spiritual homes.

In a city it is difficult for me to believe in God.

In nature it is impossible for me not to believe in God.

The thirst for wildness is in us all every day.

It is natural to love nature.

The more artificial life gets, the more we need to redress the imbalance.

Nature is happiness.

The closer man gets to inner and outer wildness, the better his life becomes.

I believe graffiti is the urban attempt to express that inner wildness.

Above: Graffiti, Kom Ombo Temple, Egypt

Within each man is a Wild Man.

He is both a being that is in men and yet also has independent life.

He both represents – and teaches us – our own brilliance, bounty, wildness, greatness and spontaneity.

The Wild Man teaches us that we don’t have to pretend to be good, but that we have power and integrity latent inside us.

If we trust it.

Abandoning yourself to wildness turns out to be the most harmonious and generative thing you can do.

Fans of Taoism and Lao Tzu will feel right at home here.

Above: The Chinese character for “Tao” – signifying way, path, route, road or, sometimes more loosely, doctrine

Above: Laotzu (4th century BCE) riding an ox through a pass.

It is said that with the fall of the Chou dynasty, Laotzu decided to travel west through the Han Valley Pass.

The Pass Commissioner, Yin-hsi, noticed a trail of vapor emanating from the east, deducing that a sage must be approaching.

Not long after, Laotzu riding his ox indeed appeared and, at the request of Yin-hsi, wrote down his famous Tao-te ching, leaving afterwards.

This story thus became associated with auspiciousness.

When we are good, we are OK.

But when we are “wild“, we are geniuses.

Any man who makes or build things, who creates a garden, who plays a jazz instrument, who has ever been a lover, knows that you are better when you “let go” and follow your impulses.

Above:  Albert Gleizes, Composition for Jazz

Natural rhythms within us take over and bring out our real talents.

Our love of trees, the wilderness, waves and water, animals, growing things, children and women, all stem from our wild nature.

All masculine confidence, of the inner kind, arises in the domain of the Wild Man.

Jesus, Mohammed and Buddha were well at ease with the Wild Man – spending time in the wilderness, using nature as their place of prayer and reflection.

All were unpredictable and nonconformist with the established order of their times, yet at the same time disciplined and true to their inner voices.

Isn’t graffiti unpredictable and nonconformist and yet is truth in its undisciplined expression?

Above: Street art, Tel Aviv, Israel

Wild does not mean savage.

Those who spray paint upon property are not necessarily a danger to themselves or others beyond the radical transformation of an urban landscape.

The savage does great damage to soil, earth, humankind and himself.

The Wild Man examines himself and probes that which has wounded him much in the manner of a Zen priest, a shaman or a woodsman.

Graffiti is freedom of expression without remorse or regret, without permission or apology.

Above: Graffiti in Yogyakarta, Indonesia

Stone and steel, plaster and plastic are far from our original nature.

Free expression upon them is to expose the world to that original nature.

Perhaps we should not associate the divine with virgin mothers and blissful Beatitudes but rather we should see the spark of the spiritual in the dance of the mad, in the smile of the fanged, in the breathlessness of submersion, covered in the hair of the untamed.

The Wild Man lives within our hearts and minds and calls to us.

This Man is not a savage, not an uncontrollable killer nor evil oppressor.

He is primordial but not barbaric, aboriginal but not vicious.

He represents what is best in the spirit of manhood.

Indomitable, invincible and wild, ready to defend and compete and protect, his instincts and perceptions are critical to the survival of the human race.

The Wild Man needs room to breathe and live and express himself.

Lose the Wild Man, lose male identity.

We need to accept that there is darkness that needs expression, that must dissent.

We emasculate and feminise ourselves to gain female approval and then are stunned that the female rejects the changes she demanded and craves the Wild Man we sacrificed in her name.

We cannot all wander away into the wilderness but we can nevertheless discover the wild side of the urban environments wherein we find ourselves.

Sometimes we need to see the city the way a country stranger might, to feel the lure of the bright lights, the spell of the big time.

Every building, every storefront opens onto a different world, compressing all the variety of human life into a jumble of possibilities made all the richer by the conjunctions and contradictions.

Just as a bookshelf can jam together Japanese poetry, Mexican history and Russian novels, so do the buildings of any cosmopolitan community.

To the clear-eyed and the open-minded even the most ordinary things can strike you with wonder.

The people on the street offer a thousand glances of lives similarly and utterly unlike your own.

Cities have always offered anonymity, variety and conjunction, much like the graffiti that graces its edifices.

A city always contains more than anyone can ever know.

A great city always makes the unknown and the possible spur the imagination.

Graffiti is the expression of that imagination.

Above: Street art in Thrissur, Kerala, India

A city is a place of unmediated encounters.

The suburbs, by comparison, are scrupulously controlled and segregated, designed for the noninteraction of motorists shuttling between private places rather than the interactions of pedestrians in public ones.

Urban density, beautiful buildings with cafés and bars everywhere, suggest different priorities for time and space, a competition fo attention by artists, poets, social and political radicals making lives about other things than commuting and spending.

The marvel of cities is in its coincidences, the struggles of many kinds of people, poetry given away to strangers under the open neon sky.

The history of the city is a history of freedom and of the definition of pleasure.

Urban walking is a stroll through the shadows, a solicitation of the senses, cruising through the crowd, promenades among the people, seduction by the shops, a rush of rage and righteousness in a riot, the passion of the protest, the sensuality of skulking, the lazy luxury of loitering, the palatable presence of a high and moral tone strangely absent.

In the city, biology is reduced to the human and a few stray species, but the range of activities, of possibilities, is limitless.

The rural walker looks at the general landscape.

The urban walker sees the specifics, looks for particulars, for opportunities.

The city resembles primordial life more than the country, in a less charming way.

The peril of human predators keeps city dwellers in a state of heightened alertness, of strengthened awareness.

Streets are the place left over between buildings.

A house alone is an island surrounded by a sea of open space, but as more and more buildings arise the sea becomes rivers, canals and streams of concrete running between the masses of skyscrapers.

Public space is merely the void between workplaces, shops and dwellings.

Walking the streets is the beginning of citizenship.

Graffiti is an expression of that citizenship.

Walking a city the citizen knows his place and truly inhabits his corner of humanity.

Walking the streets links up reading the map with living one’s life, the personal microcosm with the public macrocosm, a sense of the maze that surrounds us.

Graffiti is a signpost, a mile marker, of place and thought, of harsh reality and artistic expression.

Above: Street art, Århus, Denmark

Too few walk the streets for pleasure.

Pleasure is found in serendipity and the city is a plethora of possibilities and opportunities for serendipity.

Graffiti suggests that the profane can be profound, that the private thought can be publicly expressed, that the anonymous can have a voice synonymous with the common community.

It never occurs to us that streets can be oases rather than deserts.

Above: Street art, Buenos Aires, Argentina

One of the reasons I remain a fan of Charles Dickens is that he was a fan of urban walking and his writing thoroughly explored a city as much as his feet wandered its streets.

Dickens is the great poet of London life and his novels are as much a drama of place as they are of people.

People and places become one another.

Characters are identified as an atmosphere or a principle.

A place takes on a full-fledged personality.

His novels are full of detectives and police inspectors, of criminals who stalk, lovers who seek, and damned souls who flee.

The city is a tangle through which all the characters wander in a colossal game of hide-and-seek.

Only a vast city can allow intricate plots so full of crossed paths and overlapping lives.

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

Under the pattering rain the homeless walk and walk and walk, seeing nothing but the interminable tangle of streets.

Here and there, the police patrol.

Fear peers out of darkened doorways.

The wild moon and clouds are as restless as an uneasy conscience in a tumbled bed.

The shadow of the immense oppresses.

And yet the lonely nocturnal streets can also be comforting, as are the graveyards and shy neighbourhoods abandoned by society who have left the city for creature comforts elsewhere.

We bask in solitude.

Darkness punctuated by night skies punctured by distant stars.

In the country, solitude is geographical.

In the city, it is psychological, a world made up of strangers, strangers surrounded by strangers.

Streets silently bearing one’s secrets and imaginings of the secrets of others.

The starkest of luxuries, uncharted identity with its illimitable possibilities is one of the distinctive qualities of urban living.

An emancipation from family and communal expectation.

An experiment with subculture and identity.

It is an observer’s state.

Cool, withdrawn, senses sharpened, melancholic, alienation and introspection.

The streets are an outlaw romanticism, toughened sensibilities, wrapped in an isolation from which fierce fire burns brightly where whispers break the musing silence.

Can the neon of Miami ever emulate the alley lanterns of London?

Perhaps not.

And yet….

Here too the streets sing of celebration by day, seduction by night.

Above: Miami, Florida

G.K. Chesterton wrote:

Few of us understand the street.

Even when we step into it, we step into it doubtfully, as into a house or room of strangers.

Few of us see through the shining riddle of the street, the strange folk that belong to the street only – the whore and the wastrel, the merchant and the nomad, all who have generation after generation kept their ancient secrets in the full blaze of the sun.

Of the street at night many of us know less.

The street at night is a great house locked up.

Above: Gilbert Keith Chesterton (1874 – 1936)

Located near a mosaic and stone walkway, the Ephesus graffiti shows a handprint that vaguely resembles a heart, along with a footprint, a number, and a carved image of a woman’s head.

Above: Library of Celsus, Ephesus, Turkey

The ancient Romans carved graffiti on walls and monuments, examples of which also survive in Egypt.

Graffiti in the classical world had different connotations than they carry in today’s society concerning content.

Ancient graffiti displayed phrases of love declarations, political rhetoric, and simple words of thought, compared to today’s popular messages of social and political ideals.

The eruption of Vesuvius preserved graffiti in Pompeii, which includes Latin curses, magic spells, declarations of love, insults, alphabets, political slogans, and famous literary quotes, providing insight into ancient Roman street life.

One inscription gives the address of a woman named Novellia Primigenia of Nuceria, a prostitute, apparently of great beauty, whose services were much in demand.

Another shows a phallus accompanied by the text, mansueta tene (“handle with care“).

The heart of a man should have been displayed in its stead.

Disappointed love also found its way onto walls in antiquity:

Whoever loves, go to hell.

I want to break Venus’s ribs with a club and deform her hips.

If she can break my tender heart, why can’t I hit her over the head?

Above: Pompeii graffiti

Excellent question.

We are taught how to respect women and yet women are so often badly behaved.

Are they worthy of respect if they do not act in a manner that merits respect?

Ancient tourists visiting the 5th-century citadel at Sigiriya in Sri Lanka scribbled over 1,800 individual graffiti there between the 6th and 18th centuries.

Etched on the surface of the Mirror Wall, they contain pieces of prose, poetry, and commentary.

The majority of these visitors appear to have been from the elite of society: royalty, officials, professions, and clergy.

There were also soldiers, archers, and even some metalworkers.

The topics range from love to satire, curses, wit, and lament.

Many demonstrate a very high level of literacy and a deep appreciation of art and poetry.

Most of the graffiti refer to the frescoes of semi-nude females found there.

One reads:

Wet with cool dew drops
fragrant with perfume from the flowers
came the gentle breeze
jasmine and water lily
dance in the spring sunshine
side-long glances
of the golden-hued ladies
stab into my thoughts
heaven itself cannot take my mind
as it has been captivated by one lass
among the five hundred I have seen here.

Above: Sigiriya Rock, Sri Lanka

Above: Artwork, Sigiriya Rock, Sri Lanka

Above: Graffiti on the Mirror Wall, Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Among the ancient political graffiti examples were Arab satirist poems.

Yazid al-Himyari, an Umayyad Arab and Persian poet, was mostly known for writing political poetry on the walls between Sajistan and Basra, manifesting a strong hatred towards the Umayyad regime and its rulers.

People used to read and circulate them very widely.

Perhaps this is what those nations ruled by the rigorous need to do:

Dissent through poetry, writing on the wall, art upon the architecture, the music of musing.

Above: Screenshot, Video game Alpha Centauri

Historic forms of graffiti have helped gain understanding into the lifestyles and languages of past cultures.

Errors in spelling and grammar in these graffiti offer insight into the degree of literacy in Roman times and provide clues on the pronunciation of spoken Latin – evidence of the ability to read and write at levels of society where literacy might not be expected.

At Pompeii we find graffiti left by both foreman and workers.

Above: View of Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius, Italy

The brothel contains more than 120 pieces of graffiti, some of which were the work of the prostitutes and some the work of their clients.

The gladiatorial academy was scrawled with graffiti left by the gladiator Celadus Crescens (“Celadus the Thracian makes the girls sigh.“)

Another piece from Pompeii, written on a tavern wall about the owner of the establishment and his questionable wine:

Landlord, may your lies malign
Bring destruction on your head!
You yourself drink unmixed wine,
Water do you sell to your guests instead.

Above: Pompeii, Italy

Above: Inscription in Pompeii lamenting a frustrated love:

Whoever loves, let him flourish, let him perish who knows not love, let him perish twice over whoever forbids love.”

It was not only the Greeks and Romans who produced graffiti:

The Maya site of Tikal in Guatemala contains examples of ancient Maya graffiti. 

Above: Tikal, Guatemala

Viking graffiti survives in Rome and at Newgrange Mound in Ireland.

Above: Newgrange Mound, Ireland

A Varangian scratched his name (Halvdan) in runes on a banister in the Hagia Sophia at Constantinople (Istanbul).

Above: Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

These early forms of graffiti have contributed to the understanding of lifestyles and languages of past cultures.

Graffiti, known as Tacherons, were frequently scratched on Romanesque Scandinavian church walls.

When Renaissance artists (such as Pinturicchio, Raphael, Michelangelo, Ghirlandaio, or Filippino Lippi) descended into the ruins of Nero’s Domus Aurea, they carved or painted their names and returned to initiate the grottesche style of decoration.

Above: Bernardino di Betto (aka Pinturicchio) (1454 – 1513)

Above: Raffaello Sanzio (aka Raphael) (1483 – 1520)

Above: Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni (aka Michelangelo) (1475 – 1564)

Above: Domenico di Tommaso Curradi di Doffo Bigordi (aka Ghirlandaio) (1448 – 1494)

Above: Filippino Lippi (1457 – 1504)

There are also examples of graffiti occurring in American history, such as Independence Rock, a national landmark along the Oregon Trail.

Later, French soldiers carved their names on monuments during the Napoleonic campaign of Egypt in the 1790s. 

Above: Battle of the Pyramids, 21 July 1798

Above: Napoleon Bonaparte (1769 – 1821)

Lord Byron’s survives on one of the columns of the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion in Attica, Greece.

Above: George Gordon Byron (1788 – 1824)

Above: Cape Sounion, Greece

Contemporary graffiti style has been heavily influenced by hip hop culture and the myriad international styles derived from Philadelphia and New York City subway graffiti.

However, there are many other traditions of notable graffiti in the 20th century.

Graffiti have long appeared on building walls, in latrines, railroad boxcars, subways and bridges.

Above: Street art, Memphis, Tennessee, USA

Above: Graffiti, Amsterdam, Netherlands

The oldest known example of modern graffiti are the “monikers” found on boxcars created by hobos and rail workers since the late 1800s.

The Bozo Texino monikers were documented by filmmaker Bill Daniel in his 2005 film, Who is Bozo Texino?.

Some graffiti have their own poignancy.

In World War II, an inscription on a wall at the fortress of Verdun was seen as an illustration of the US response twice in a generation to the wrongs of the Old World:

Austin White – Chicago, Ill – 1918
Austin White – Chicago, Ill – 1945
This is the last time I want to write my name here.

Above: Verdun, France

During World War II and for decades after, the phrase “Kilroy was here” with an accompanying illustration was widespread throughout the world, due to its use by American troops and ultimately filtering into American popular culture.

Shortly after the death of Charlie Parker (1920 – 1955) (nicknamed “Yardbird” or “Bird“), graffiti began appearing around New York with the words “Bird Lives“.

The student protests and general strike of May 1968 saw Paris bedecked in revolutionary, anarchistic, and situationist slogans such as L’ennui est contre-révolutionnaire (“Boredom is counterrevolutionary“) expressed in painted graffiti, poster art, and stencil art.

At the time in the US, other political phrases (such as “Free Huey” about Black Panther Huey Newton) became briefly popular as graffiti in limited areas, only to be forgotten.

Above: Huey Newton (1942 – 1989)

A popular graffito of the early 1970s was “Dick Nixon Before He Dicks You“, reflecting the hostility of the youth culture to that US president.

Above: Richard Nixon (1913 – 1994) (US President: 1969 – 1974)

Rock and roll graffiti is a significant subgenre.

A famous graffito of the 20th century was the inscription in London reading “Clapton is God” in reference to the guitarist Eric Clapton.

Creating the cult of the guitar hero, the phrase was spray-painted by an admirer on a wall in an Islington, north London in the autumn of 1967.

The graffito was captured in a photograph, in which a dog is urinating on the wall.

Above: Eric Clapton

Graffiti also became associated with the anti-establishment punk rock movement beginning in the 1970s.

Bands (such as Black Flag and Crass) and their followers widely stenciled their names and logos.

Many punk night clubs, squats and hangouts are famous for their graffiti.

The Anti-Social Behaviour Act 2003 became Britain’s latest anti-graffiti legislation.

In August 2004, the Keep Britain Tidy campaign issued a press release calling for zero tolerance of graffiti and supporting proposals such as issuing “on the spot” fines to graffiti offenders and banning the sale of aerosol paint to anyone under the age of 16.

The press release also condemned the use of graffiti images in advertising and in music videos, arguing that real-world experience of graffiti stood far removed from its often-portrayed “cool” or “edgy‘” image.

To back the campaign, 123 Members of Parliament (MPs) (including then Prime Minister Tony Blair), signed a charter which stated:

Graffiti is not art, it’s crime.

On behalf of my constituents, I will do all I can to rid our community of this problem.

Above: Tony Blair (British Prime Minister: 1997 – 2007)

In the UK, city councils have the power to take action against the owner of any property that has been defaced under the Anti-Social Behaviour Act 2003 (as amended by the Clean Neighbourhoods and Environment Act 2005) or, in certain cases, the Highways Act.

This is often used against owners of property that are complacent in allowing protective boards to be defaced so long as the property is not damaged.

In July 2008, a conspiracy charge was used to convict graffitists for the first time.

After a three-month police surveillance operation, nine members of the DPM crew were convicted of conspiracy to commit criminal damage costing at least £1 million.

Five of them received prison sentences, ranging from eighteen months to two years.

The unprecedented scale of the investigation and the severity of the sentences rekindled public debate over whether graffiti should be considered art or crime.

Some councils, like those of Stroud and Lörrach (Germany), provide approved areas in the town where graffitists can showcase their talents, including underpasses, car parks, and walls that might otherwise prove a target for the “spray and run“.

Above: Stroud, Gloucestershire, England

Above: Street art, Stroud

Above: Lörrach, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Street art, Lörrach

In Europe, community cleaning squads have responded to graffiti, in some cases with reckless abandon, as when in 1992 in France a local Scout group, attempting to remove modern graffiti, damaged two prehistoric paintings of bison in the Cave of Mayriere Supérieure, near the French village of Bruniquel in Tarn-et-Garonne, earning them the 1992 Ig Nobel Prize in archaeology.

(The Ig Nobel Prize is a satiric prize awarded annually since 1991 to celebrate ten unusual or trivial achievements in scientific research.

Its aim is to “honour achievements that first make people laugh, and then make them think.”

The name of the award is a pun on the Nobel Prize, which it parodies, and on the word ignoble (“not noble“).

Organized by the scientific humor magazine, Annals of Improbable Research (AIR), the Ig Nobel Prizes are presented by Nobel laureates in a ceremony at the Sanders Theater, Harvard University, followed by the winners’ public lectures at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT).)

Above: Cave of Mayrières supérieure, Bruniquel, Tam-et-Garonne department, France

Above: rue Principale, Bruniquel, Tam-et-Garonne department, France

In September 2006, the European Parliament directed the European Commission to create urban environment policies to prevent and eliminate dirt, litter, graffiti, animal excrement, and excessive noise from domestic and vehicular music systems in European cities, along with other concerns over urban life.

In Budapest, Hungary, both a city-backed movement called I Love Budapest and a special police division tackle the problem, including the provision of approved areas.

Above: Budapest, Hungary

Style Wars depicted not only famous graffitists (such as Skeme, Dondi, MinOne, and ZEPHYR), but also reinforced graffiti’s role within New York’s emerging hip-hop culture by incorporating famous early break-dancing groups (such as Rock Steady Crew) into the film and featuring rap in the soundtrack.

Above: Graffiti artist Skeme

Above: Graffiti artist Dondi

Above: Graffiti artist Min One

Above: Graffiti artist Zephyr

Above: Rock Steady Crew

Although many officers of the New York City Police Department found this film to be controversial, Style Wars is still recognized as the most prolific film representation of what was going on within the young hip hop culture of the early 1980s.

Fab 5 Freddy and Futura 2000 took hip hop graffiti to Paris and London as part of the New York City Rap Tour in 1983.

Above: Graffiti artist Fab 5 Freddy

Above: Graffiti artist Futura 2000

This period also saw the emergence of the new stencil graffiti genre.

Some of the first examples were created in 1981 by graffitists Blek le Rat in Paris, in 1982 by Jef Aerosol in Tours (France). 

Above: Graffiti artist Blek le Rat

Above: Graffiti artist Jef Aerosol

By 1985, stencils had appeared in other cities including New York City, Sydney, and Melbourne, where they were documented by American photographer Charles Gatewood and Australian photographer Rennie Ellis.

Above: Street art, New York City, New York, USA

Above: Graffiti, Sydney, Australia

In an effort to reduce vandalism, many cities in Australia have designated walls or areas exclusively for use by graffitists.

One early example is the “Graffiti Tunnel” located at the Camperdown Campus of the University of Sydney, which is available for use by any student at the university to tag, advertise, poster, and create “art“.

Advocates of this idea suggest that this discourages petty vandalism yet encourages artists to take their time and produce great art, without worry of being caught or arrested for vandalism or trespassing.

Above: Graffiti Tunnel, Sydney, Australia

Others disagree with this approach, arguing that the presence of legal graffiti walls does not demonstrably reduce illegal graffiti elsewhere.

Some local government areas throughout Australia have introduced “anti-graffiti squads“, who clean graffiti in the area, and such crews as BCW (Buffers Can’t Win) have taken steps to keep one step ahead of local graffiti cleaners.

Many state governments have banned the sale or possession of spray paint to those under the age of 18 (age of majority).

However, a number of local governments in Victoria have taken steps to recognize the cultural heritage value of some examples of graffiti, such as prominent political graffiti.

Tough new graffiti laws have been introduced in Australia with fines of up to A$26,000 and two years in prison.

Above: Street art, Sydney, Australia

Melbourne is a prominent graffiti city of Australia with many of its lanes being tourist attractions, such as Hosier Lane in particular, a popular destination for photographers, wedding photography, and backdrops for corporate print advertising.

The Lonely Planet travel guide cites this Melbourne street as a major attraction.

Above: Hosier Lane, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

All forms of graffiti, including sticker art, poster, stencil art, and wheat pasting, can be found in many places throughout the city.

Prominent street art precincts include Fitzroy, Collingwood, Northcote, Brunswick, St. Kilda and the CBD, where stencil and sticker art is prominent.

Above: Street art, Fitzroy, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Collingwood, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Northcote, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Sunshine Lane, Brunswick, Melbourne

Above: Street art, St. Kilda, Melbourne

Above: Street art, Central Business District (CBD), Melbourne

As one moves farther away from the city, mostly along suburban train lines, graffiti tags become more prominent.

Many international artists such as Banksy have left their work in Melbourne and in early 2008 a perspex screen was installed to prevent a Banksy stencil art piece from being destroyed, it has survived since 2003 through the respect of local street artists avoiding posting over it, although it has recently had paint tipped over it.

Above: Banksy street art, Melbourne

In February 2008, Helen Clark, the New Zealand Prime Minister at that time, announced a government crackdown on tagging and other forms of graffiti vandalism, describing it as a destructive crime representing an invasion of public and private property.

New legislation subsequently adopted included a ban on the sale of paint spray cans to persons under 18 and increases in maximum fines for the offence from NZ$200 to NZ$2,000 or extended community service.

Above: Helen Clark (New Zealand Prime Minister: 1999 – 2008)

The issue of tagging become a widely debated one following an incident in Auckland during January 2008 in which a middle-aged property owner stabbed one of two teenage taggers to death and was subsequently convicted of manslaughter.

Tagging is the practice of someone spray-painting “their name, initial or logo onto a public surface“.

Above: Graffiti artist Pihema Cameron (1993 – 2008)

With the popularity and legitimization of graffiti has come a level of commercialization.

In 2001, computer giant IBM launched an advertising campaign in Chicago and San Francisco which involved people spray painting on sidewalks a peace symbol, a heart and a penguin, to represent “Peace, Love, and Linux“.

IBM paid Chicago and San Francisco collectively US$120,000 for punitive damages and clean-up costs.

Above: Logo of the International Business Machines Corporation

In 2005, a similar ad campaign was launched by Sony and executed by its advertising agency in New York, Chicago, Atlanta, Philadelphia, Los Angeles, and Miami, to market its handheld PSP gaming system.

In this campaign, taking notice of the legal problems of the IBM campaign, Sony paid building owners for the rights to paint on their buildings “a collection of dizzy-eyed urban kids playing with the PSP as if it were a skateboard, a paddle, or a rocking horse“.

Above: Sony PSP graffiti

Marc Ecko, an urban clothing designer, has been an advocate of graffiti as an art form during this period, stating that:

Graffiti is without question the most powerful art movement in recent history and has been a driving inspiration throughout my career.

Above: Marc Ecko

Graffiti have become a common stepping stone for many members of both the art and design communities in North America and abroad.

Within the US graffitists (such as Mike Giant, Pursue, Rime, Noah, and countless others) have made careers in skateboard, apparel, and shoe design for companies (such as DC Shoes, Adidas, Rebel8, Osiris, or Circa). 

Above: Graffiti artist Mike Giant

Above: Graffiti artist Pursue

Above: Graffiti artist Rime

Above: Logo of Rebel 8

Meanwhile, there are many others (such as DZINE, Daze, Blade, and El Mac) who have made the switch to being gallery artists, often not even using their initial medium, spray paint.

Above: Graffiti artist Dzine

Above: Graffiti artist Daze

Above: Graffiti artist Blade

Above: Graffiti artist El Mac

Brazil “boasts a unique and particularly rich, graffiti scene earning it an international reputation as the place to go for artistic inspiration.

Graffiti “flourishes in every conceivable space in Brazil’s cities“.

Artistic parallels “are often drawn between the energy of São Paulo today and 1970s New York“.

The “sprawling metropolis” of São Paulo has “become the new shrine to graffiti” .

Poverty and unemployment and the epic struggles and conditions of the country’s marginalised peoples” and “Brazil’s chronic poverty” are the main engines that “have fuelled a vibrant graffiti culture“.

In world terms, Brazil has “one of the most uneven distributions of income.

Laws and taxes change frequently.

Such factors contribute to a very fluid society, riven with those economic divisions and social tensions that underpin and feed the “folkloric vandalism and an urban sport for the disenfranchised“, that is South American graffiti art.

Above: Street art, Sao Paulo, Brazil

Prominent Brazilian graffitists include Os Gêmeos, Boleta, Nunca, Nina, Speto, Tikka, and Titi Freak. 

Their artistic success and involvement in commercial design ventures has highlighted divisions within the Brazilian graffiti community between adherents of the cruder transgressive form of pichação (Brazilian graffiti) and the more conventionally artistic values of the practitioners of grafite (graffiti).

Above: Identical twin graffiti artists Os Gemeos

Above: Graffiti artist Boleta

Above: Nunca mural, Sorocaba, Brazil

Above: Graffiti artist Nina

Above: Graffiti artist Speto

Above: Graffiti artist Tikka

Above: Titi Freak street art

Graffiti in the Middle East has emerged slowly, with taggers operating in Egypt, Lebanon, the Gulf countries like Bahrein or the United Arab Emirates (UAE), Israel and in Iran.

The major Iranian newspaper Hamshahri has published two articles on illegal writers in the city with photographic coverage of Iranian artist A1one’s works on Tehran walls.

Above: Logo of Iranian newspaper Hamshahri

Above: Graffiti artist A1one

Tokyo-based design magazine, PingMag, has interviewed A1one and featured photographs of his work. 

The Israeli West Bank barrier has become a site for graffiti, reminiscent in this sense of the Berlin Wall.

Above: West Bank Barrier graffiti art

Above: Berlin Wall (1961 – 1989) graffiti

Many graffitists in Israel come from other places around the globe, such as JUIF from Los Angeles and DEVIONE from London.

Above: Juif street art

Above: Graffiti artist Devione

The religious reference “נ נח נחמ נחמן מאומן” (“Na Nach Nachma Nachman Meuman“) is commonly seen in graffiti around Israel.

Graffiti has played an important role within the street art scene in the Middle East and North Africa (MENA), especially following the events of the Arab Spring of 2011 or the Sudanese Revolution (2018 – 2019).

Above: The MENA (Middle East and North Africa) or WANA (West Asia and North Africa) region according to 13 definitions:

  • 7 from United Nations agencies/programmes
  • 3 from agricultural organizations
  • 2 from demographics research institutes
  • 1 from historians.
  • Dark blue countries/territories are included in more than 66% of definitions
  • Sky blue in 33–66% of definitions
  • Light blue in fewer than 33% of definitions of the MENA/WANA region.  

Above: Images of the Arab Spring (2010 – 2012)

Clockwise from top left: 2011 Egyptian revolution (25 January – 11 February), Tunisian revolution (2010 – 2011), Yemeni uprising (2011 – 2012), 2011 Syrian uprising (15 March – 28 July)

Above: Sudanese protestors gather in front of government buildings in Khartoum to celebrate the final signing of the Draft Constitutional Declaration between military and civil representatives, 19 August 2019

Graffiti is a tool of expression in the context of conflict in the region, allowing people to raise their voices politically and socially.

Famous street artist Banksy has had an important effect in the street art scene in the MENA area, especially in Palestine where some of his works are located on the West Bank barrier and in Bethlehem.

Above: Banksy graffiti at the Israeli West Bank barrier in Bethlehem

There are also a large number of graffiti influences in Southeast Asian countries that mostly come from modern Western culture, such as Malaysia, where graffiti have long been a common sight in Malaysia’s capital city, Kuala Lumpur (KL).

Since 2010, the country has begun hosting a street festival to encourage all generations and people from all walks of life to enjoy and encourage Malaysian street culture.

Above: Graffiti art in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

In China, Mao Zedong in the 1920s used revolutionary slogans and paintings in public places to galvanise the country’s Communist Revolution.

Above: Mao Zedong (1893 – 1976)

Based on different national conditions, many people believe that China’s attitude towards Graffiti is fierce, but in fact, according to Lance Crayon in his film Spray Paint Beijing: Graffiti in the Capital of China,

Graffiti is generally accepted in Beijing, with artists not seeing much police interference.

Political and religiously sensitive graffiti, however, is not allowed.

In Hong Kong, Tsang Tsou Choi was known as the King of Kowloon for his calligraphy graffiti over many years, in which he claimed ownership of the area.

Now some of his work is preserved officially.

Above: Graffiti artist Tsang Tsou-choi (1921 – 2007)

In Taiwan, the government has made some concessions to graffitists.

Since 2005 they have been allowed to freely display their work along some sections of riverside retaining walls in designated “Graffiti Zones“. 

From 2007, Taipei’s department of cultural affairs also began permitting graffiti on fences around major public construction sites.

Department head Yong-ping Lee stated:

We will promote graffiti starting with the public sector, and then later in the private sector too.

It’s our goal to beautify the city with graffiti“.

The government later helped organize a graffiti contest in Ximending, a popular shopping district. graffitists caught working outside of these designated areas still face fines up to NT$6,000 under a Department of Environmental Protection regulation.

However, Taiwanese authorities can be relatively lenient, one veteran police officer stating anonymously,

Unless someone complains about vandalism, we won’t get involved.

We don’t go after it proactively.”

Above: Street art, Taipei, Taiwan

In 1993, after several expensive cars in Singapore were spray-painted, the police arrested a student from the Singapore American School, Michael P. Fay, questioned him, and subsequently charged him with vandalism.

Fay pleaded guilty to vandalizing a car in addition to stealing road signs.

Under the 1966 Vandalism Act of Singapore, originally passed to curb the spread of Communist graffiti in Singapore, the court sentenced him to four months in jail, a fine of S$3,500 (US$2,233), and a caning. 

Above: Michael P. Kay

The New York Times ran several editorials and op-eds that condemned the punishment and called on the American public to flood the Singaporean embassy with protests.

Although the Singapore government received many calls for clemency, Fay’s caning took place in Singapore on 5 May 1994.

Fay had originally received a sentence of six strokes of the cane, but the presiding President of Singapore, Ong Teng Cheong, agreed to reduce his caning sentence to four lashes.

Above: Ong Teng Cheong (Singapore President: 1936 – 2002)

In South Korea, Park Jung-soo was fined two million South Korean won by the Seoul Central District Court for spray-painting a rat on posters of the G-20 Summit a few days before the event in November 2011.

Park alleged that the initial in “G-20” sounds like the Korean word for “rat“, but Korean government prosecutors alleged that Park was making a derogatory statement about the president of South Korea, Lee Myung-bak, the host of the Summit.

Above: Member countries of the G20 (pink) / Countries represented through the membership of the European Union (purple) / Countries permanently invited (yellow)

Above: Lee Myung-bak (South Korean President: 2008 – 2014)

This case led to public outcry and debate on the lack of government tolerance and in support of freedom of expression.

The court ruled that the painting, “an ominous creature like a rat” amounts to “an organized criminal activity” and upheld the fine while denying the prosecution’s request for imprisonment for Park.

Above: Graffiti artist Park Jung-Soo

The modern-day graffitists can be found with an arsenal of various materials that allow for a successful production of a piece.

This includes such techniques as scribing.

However, spray paint in aerosol cans is the number one medium for graffiti.

From this commodity comes different styles, technique, and abilities to form master works of graffiti.

Spray paint can be found at hardware and art stores and comes in virtually every colour.

Stencil graffiti is created by cutting out shapes and designs in a stiff material (such as cardboard or subject folders) to form an overall design or image.

The stencil is then placed on the “canvas” gently and with quick, easy strokes of the aerosol can, the image begins to appear on the intended surface.

Above: Graffiti Tunnel, San Francisco, California, USA

Modern graffiti art often incorporates additional arts and technologies.

For example, Graffiti Research Lab has encouraged the use of projected images and magnetic light-emitting diodes (throwies) as new media for graffitists. 

Yarnbombing is another recent form of graffiti.

Yarnbombers occasionally target previous graffiti for modification, which had been avoided among the majority of graffitists.

Above: Graffiti, Zumaia, Spain

Tagging is the practice of someone spray-painting “their name, initial or logo onto a public surface“.

A number of recent examples of graffiti make use of hashtags.

Above: Graffiti, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

When graffiti artist Alan Ket was growing up in Brooklyn, he got good at improvisation.

Above: Alan Ket, Museum of Graffiti, Miami, Florida

He remembers:

By the time I grew up, all the spray cans were locked up in cages.

I used to use Ban Roll-On and take off the top, then I would steal erasers from the classroom and pull off the felt, then use the felt tip on the Roll-On.

I would go to the supermarket and get purple supermarket ink and fill it.

That eye for detail paid off.

Along with co-founder Allison Freidin, Ket oversees the Museum of Graffiti in its home next to Wynwood Walls.

Above: Alison Freidin

It is a fitting location for the Museum, which opened in late 2019.

It offers a fascinating look into the historical context that made the mural park one of Miami’s most popular attractions.

Its location is 5,000 square feet.

Its mission is to teach people about an art movement that is now fixed in our culture and commerce.

Friedin says:

So many people come here and are really focused on the narrative that the press and the government have been feeding them for so many years, that graffiti is gang-related, that graffiti artists are dangerous criminals.

A lot of folks come in with only having heard one side of the story.

The Museum of Graffiti provides that other very important half that is from marginalized artists who don’t have a platform other than the streets.

A trip through the Museum encompasses the early forms of tagging and introduces such innovators as Philadelphia’s Cornbread, who started creating street art in 1965 and famously tagged the Jackson 5’s plane and an elephant at the zoo.

Above: Graffiti artist Cornbread

Above: The Jackson 5 from left to right: Tito, Marlon, Michael (1958 – 2009), Jackie, and Jermaine Jackson

There is also a nod to the flamboyant Rammellzee, a visual artist, performance artist and hip-hop musician who recorded “Beat Box“, one of the most valued and collectible hip-hop records of all time.

Above: Artist Rammellzee

(Jean-Michel Baptiste designed the cover.)

The self-proclaimed birthplace of graffiti, New York City, figures prominently in the telling of this history.

There is a tribute to the New York subway trains once covered in graffiti (much to the dismay of vindictive transit authorities) and nods to entrepreneurial artists who found ways to monetize their work through album covers, merchandise like T-shirts and collectibles, skateboards and tattoos.

(For example, there is a replica of the Shirt King store from the Colosseum Mall in Queens and a mini tattoo parlor.)

Past and future collide in these rooms.

Pass a wall of the original spray paints used in early street art and find yourself in an Oculus headset for a virtual reality opportunity to let your inner artist flow.

One of the hardest things about putting the Museum together has been finding historical artifacts, Freidin says.

Too many materials were left moldering in basements or storage units.

Like they did when their children left comic books behind, overzealous parents threw away much of what might have been valuable.

Freidin says:

Because it was not treated as an art form until recently, the archives are very unstable.

We have lost important pieces of ephemera or antiques that tell the history of the culture, because there has been no preservation of that culture.

Freidin did manage to track down a couple of the New York subway turnstiles, still in their original red and yellow, for guests to walk through at the end of the tour.

The Museum won’t neglect its Wynwood roots, either.

Above: Museum of Graffiti, Miami, Florida

An exhibit of Puerto Rican artists opened in March 2022, paying homage to the neighbourhood’s original residents.

Above: Street art, San Jian, Puerto Rico

There are free drawing classes for kids on Sundays and graffiti classes for anyone who wants to learn how to use spray cans to draw characters.

But the story the Museum of Graffiti is telling is far from over.

Ket says:

There is no complete story.

It is a global story.

Every city, every region has its own story.

We are gathering all these stories to join them and give you an overview of what has happened.

It is still being discovered.”

Above: Street art, Budapest, Hungary

In the early 1980s, the first art galleries to show graffitists to the public were Fashion Moda in the Bronx, the Now Gallery and the Fun Gallery, both in the East Village, Manhattan.

Above: Fashion Moda, The Bronx, New York City, New York, USA

Above: The Now Gallery, East Village, Manhattan, New York City

Above: The Fun Gallery, East Village, Manhattan

A 2006 exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum displayed graffiti as an art form that began in New York’s outer boroughs and reached great heights in the early 1980s with the work of Crash, Lee, Daze, Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

Above: Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn, New York City

Above: Graffiti artist Crash

Above: Graffiti artist Lee

Above: Street art, Daze, Brooklyn

Above: Keith Haring (1958 – 1990)

Above: Keith Haring Mural, Collingwood, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Above: Jean-Michel Basquiat (1960 – 1988)

Above: Graffito of Jean-Michel Basquiat

The Brooklyn Museum displayed 22 works by New York graffitists, including Crash, Daze, and Lady Pink.

Above: Street art, Crash, Wynwood Walls, Miami, Florida

Above: Street art, Daze, Brooklyn

Above: Graffiti artist Lady Pink

In an article about the exhibition in the magazine Time Out, curator Charlotta Kotik said that she hoped the exhibition would cause viewers to rethink their assumptions about graffiti.

From the 1970s onwards, Burhan Dogancay photographed urban walls all over the world.

These he then archived for use as sources of inspiration for his painterly works.

The project today known as “Walls of the World” grew beyond even his own expectations and comprises about 30,000 individual images.

It spans a period of 40 years across five continents and 114 countries.

In 1982, photographs from this project comprised a one-man exhibition titled “Les murs murmurent, ils crient, ils chantent …” (The walls whisper, shout and sing …) at the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris.

Above: Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris, France

In Australia, art historians have judged some local graffiti of sufficient creative merit to rank them firmly within the arts. 

Oxford University Press’ art history text Australian Painting 1788–2000 concludes with a long discussion of graffiti’s key place within contemporary visual culture, including the work of several Australian practitioners.

Between March and April 2009, 150 artists exhibited 300 pieces of graffiti at the Grand Palais in Paris.

Above: Grand Palais, Paris, France

Theories on the use of graffiti by avant-garde artists have a history dating back at least to the Asger Jorn, who in 1962 painting declared in a graffiti-like gesture:

The avant-garde won’t give up.”

Above: Danish artist Asger Jorn (1914 – 1973)

Many contemporary analysts and even art critics have begun to see artistic value in some graffiti and to recognize it as a form of public art.

According to many art researchers, particularly in the Netherlands and in Los Angeles, that type of public art is, in fact an effective tool of social emancipation or, in the achievement of a political goal.

In times of conflict, such murals have offered a means of communication and self-expression for members of these socially, ethnically, or racially divided communities, and have proven themselves as effective tools in establishing dialog and thus, of addressing cleavages in the long run.

Above: Street art, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Above: Street art, Los Angeles, California, USA

The Berlin Wall was also extensively covered by graffiti reflecting social pressures relating to the oppressive Soviet rule over the German Democratic Republic (GDR) (East Germany).

Above: My God, Help me to survive this deadly love graffiti painting on the Berlin Wall (1961 – 1989) depicting Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev (1906 – 1982) kissing East German leader Erich Honecker (1912 – 1994)

Above: Berlin Wall – “Anyone who wants to keep the world as it is does not want it to remain.”

Many graffitists choose to protect their identities and remain anonymous or to hinder prosecution.

With the commercialization of graffiti (and hip hop in general), in most cases, even with legally painted “graffiti” art, graffitists tend to choose anonymity.

This may be attributed to various reasons or a combination of reasons.

Graffiti still remains the one of four hip hop elements that is not considered “performance art” despite the image of the “singing and dancing star” that sells hip hop culture to the mainstream.

Being a graphic form of art, it might also be said that many graffitists still fall in the category of the introverted archetypal artist.

Above: Banksy mural, Bethlehem, Israel

Banksy is one of the world’s most notorious and popular street artists who continues to remain faceless in today’s society.

Above: Slave labour, street art, Banksy, Wood Green, London, England

He is known for his political, anti-war stencil art mainly in Bristol, England, but his work may be seen anywhere from Los Angeles to Palestine.

Above: Street art, Banksy, Bristol, England

Above: Naked man, street art, Banksy, Park Street, Bristol

Above: The girl with the pierced eardrum, street art, Banksy, Bristol, England

Above: Banksy street art above bus shelter, Admiralty Road, Great Yarmouth, England

Above: Oscar Wilde (1854 – 1900) – Escaping prisoner, street art, Banksy, Reading, England

Above: Swinger, street art, Banksy, New Orleans, Louisiana, USA

Above: No Loitering, street art, Banksy, New Orleans – Building derelict since the Hurricane Katrina levee failure disaster of 2005

Above: Season’s Greetings, street art, Banksy, Port Talbot, Wales

Above: Children of War, street art, Banksy, Independence Square, Kyiv, Ukraine

Above: Street art, Banksy, bombed building, Irpin, Ukraine

Above: Steve Jobs (1955 – 2011) – The son of a migrant from Syria, street art, Banksy, Calais, France

Above: Rat race, street art, Banksy, 14th Street, Manhattan, New York City

Above: Parachuting rat, street art, Banksy, Melbourne, Australia

In the UK, Banksy is the most recognizable icon for this cultural artistic movement and keeps his identity a secret to avoid arrest.

Above: Devolved Parliament, Banksy

Much of Banksy’s artwork may be seen around the streets of London and surrounding suburbs, although he has painted pictures throughout the world, including the Middle East, where he has painted on Israel’s controversial West Bank barrier with satirical images of life on the other side.

Above: Street art, Banksy, Brick Lane, East End, London, England

Above: Charles Manson (1934 – 2017) – Hitchhiker to Anywhere, street art, Banksy, Archway, London, England

Above: Ozone’s Angel, street art, Banksy, London, England

Above: ATM attacking a girl, street art, Banksy, Rosebery Avenue, London, England

Above: Shop until you drop, street art, Banksy, Mayfair, London, England –

We can’t do anything to change the world until capitalism crumbles.

In the meantime we should all go shopping to console ourselves.

Above: Girl with balloon / There is always hope, street art, Banksy, South Bank, London, England

One depicted a hole in the wall with an idyllic beach, while another shows a mountain landscape on the other side.

A number of exhibitions also have taken place since 2000.

Recent works of art have fetched vast sums of money.

Banksy’s art is a prime example of the classic controversy:

Vandalism vs. art.

Above: Street art, Banksy, Bethlehem, Israel

Above: Civilian drone strike, charity work for Campaign against Arms Trade and Reprieve, Banksy

(Reprieve is a nonprofit organization of international lawyers and investigators whose stated goal is to “fight for the victims of extreme human rights abuses with legal action and public education“.

Their main focus is on the death penalty, indefinite detention without trial (such as in Guantanamo), extraordinary rendition (state-sponsored forcible abduction) and extrajudicial killing (the deliberate killing of a person without the lawful authority granted by a judicial proceeding). )

Art supporters endorse his work distributed in urban areas as pieces of art and some councils, such as Bristol and Islington, have officially protected them, while officials of other areas have deemed his work to be vandalism and have removed it.

Above: The Grin Reaper, Banksy

Above: Painting for saints / Game changer – NHS tribute, street art, Banksy, Southampton General Hospital, England

Pixnit is another artist who chose to keep her identity from the general public. 

Her work focuses on beauty and design aspects of graffiti as opposed to Banksy’s anti-government shock value.

Her paintings are often of flower designs above shops and stores in her local urban area of Cambridge, Massachusetts.

Some store owners endorse her work and encourage others to do similar work as well.

Above: Graffiti artist Pixnit

Graffiti artists may become offended if photographs of their art are published in a commercial context without their permission.

In March 2020, the Finnish graffiti artist Psyke expressed his displeasure at the newspaper Ilta-Sanomat publishing a photograph of a Peugeot 208 in an article about new cars, with his graffiti prominently shown on the background.

The artist claims he does not want his art being used in commercial context, not even if he were to receive compensation.

Above: Graffiti artist Psyke

Territorial graffiti marks urban neighborhoods with tags and logos to differentiate certain groups from others.

These images are meant to show outsiders a stern look at whose turf is whose.

The subject matter of gang-related graffiti consists of cryptic symbols and initials strictly fashioned with unique calligraphies.

Gang members use graffiti to designate membership throughout the gang, to differentiate rivals and associates and, most commonly, to mark borders which are both territorial and ideological.

Above: Gang symbol markings on public property, Millwood, Washington, USA

Many restrictions of civil gang injunctions are designed to help address and protect the physical environment and limit graffiti.

Provisions of gang injunctions include things such as:

  • restricting the possession of marker pens, spray paint cans, or other sharp objects capable of defacing private or public property
  • spray painting, or marking with marker pens, scratching, applying stickers, or otherwise applying graffiti on any public or private property, including, but not limited to the street, alley, residences, block walls, and fences, vehicles or any other real or personal property.

Some injunctions contain wording that restricts damaging or vandalizing both public and private property, including but not limited to any vehicle, light fixture, door, fence, wall, gate, window, building, street sign, utility box, telephone box, tree, or power pole.

Above: Asper Jorn graffiti, “It is forbidden to forbid.“, Paris, 1968

Graffiti has been used as a means of advertising both legally and illegally. 

Bronx-based TATS CRU has made a name for themselves doing legal advertising campaigns for companies, such as Coca-Cola, McDonald’s, Toyota and MTV.

Above: Graffiti artists Tats Cru

In the UK, Covent Garden’s Boxfresh used stencil images of a Zapatista revolutionary in the hopes that cross referencing would promote their store.

Above: Graffiti artist Boxfresh

Above: Street art, Boxfresh, Richmond, Virginia

Smirnoff hired artists to use reverse graffiti (the use of high pressure hoses to clean dirty surfaces to leave a clean image in the surrounding dirt) to increase awareness of their product.

Graffiti often has a reputation as part of a subculture that rebels against authority, although the considerations of the practitioners often diverge and can relate to a wide range of attitudes.

It can express a political practice and can form just one tool in an array of resistance techniques.

One early example includes the anarcho-punk band Crass, who conducted a campaign of stenciling anti-war, anarchist, feminist and anti-consumerist messages throughout the London Underground system during the late 1970s and early 1980s.

Above: Crass at the Cleatormoor Civic Hall, UK, 3 May 1984

Left to right: Pete Wright (bass), Steve Ignorant (vocals), N.A. Palmer (guitar).

In Amsterdam, graffiti was a major part of the punk scene.

The city was covered with names such as “De Zoot“, “Vendex“, and “Dr Rat“.

Above: Graffiti artist Vendex

Above: Graffiti artist Dr. Rat

To document the graffiti a punk magazine was started that was called Gallerie Anus.

So when hip hop came to Europe in the early 1980s there was already a vibrant graffiti culture.

Above: Hip hop musician Grandmaster Flash

The student protests and general strike of May 1968 saw Paris bedecked in revolutionary, anarchistic and situationist slogans, such as L’ennui est contre-révolutionnaire (“Boredom is counterrevolutionary“) and Lisez moins, vivez plus (“Read less, live more“).

While not exhaustive, the graffiti gave a sense of the ‘millenarian’ and rebellious spirit, tempered with a good deal of verbal wit, of the strikers.

Above: Paris, France, May 1968

The developments of graffiti art which took place in art galleries and colleges as well as “on the street” or “underground“, contributed to the resurfacing in the 1990s of a far more overtly politicized art form in the subvertising, culture jamming or tactical media movements.

These movements or styles tend to classify the artists by their relationship to their social and economic contexts, since, in most countries, graffiti art remains illegal in many forms except when using non-permanent paint.

Above: Graffiti on a wall in Čakovec, Croatia

Since the 1990s with the rise of Street Art, a growing number of artists are switching to non-permanent paints and non-traditional forms of painting.

Above: French Resistance hero Pierre Brossolette, Street art, 5th Arrondissement, Paris, France

Contemporary practitioners, accordingly, have varied and often conflicting practices.

Some individuals, such as Alexander Brener, have used the medium to politicize other art forms, and have used the prison sentences enforced on them as a means of further protest.

(Alexander Brener is a Russian performance “artist” and a self-described political activist.

Above: Alexander Davidovich Brener

Brener’s performances of note include defecating in front of a painting by Vincent van Gogh at the Alexander Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts in Moscow, having sex in front of the Monument to Alexander Pushkin in Rostov-on-Don, and vandalizing art works by other artists.

Above: Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts, Moscow, Russia

Above: Monument to Alexander Puskin, Rostov-on-Don, Russia

Above: Russian writer Alexander Pushkin (1799 – 1837)

He was jailed in 1997 for painting a green dollar sign on Kazimir Malevich’s painting Suprematisme

Above: Suprematism (1927), Kazimir Malevich

In the court case Brener said in his defence:

The cross is a symbol of suffering, the dollar sign a symbol of trade and merchandise.

On humanitarian grounds are the ideas of Jesus Christ of higher significance than those of the money.

What I did was not against the painting.

I view my act as a dialogue with Malevich.

I doubt Malevich would have felt the same.

Above: Kazimir Severinovich Malevich (1879 – 1935), Self-portrait (1910)

Giancarlo Politi, the editor of Flash Art, resolutely defended Brener from the pages of his magazine, stirring controversy and campaigning for his acquittal.

Brener was sentenced to five months in prison, where he wrote the essay Obossani Pistolet.

In the text he explains his beliefs and summarizes his actions.

In 2000, Brener disrupted the press conference of Manifesta 3 in Ljubljana by spraying slogans on the presentation screen and handing out leaflets stating:

Demolish neo-liberalist multicultural art system now!

Bodyguards came and dragged Brener out of the hall.

He was later arrested by Slovenian secret police in the streets.

Above: Images of Ljubljana, Slovenia

In 2003, Brener vandalized the work of Swiss-Italian artist Gianni Motti during the opening of Motti’s exhibition “Turnover” at Artra Gallery in Milan.

Above: Gianni Motti

Brener co-wrote a number of books together with Austrian artist and critic Barbara Schurz, including: 

Above: Barbara Schurz and Alexander Brenner

  • Bukaka spat Here

  • Tattoos auf Gefängnissen (Tattoos of Prisoners)

  • Anti Technologies of Resistance 
  • The Art of Destruction

Try as I may, I cannot respect Brener.)

The practices of anonymous groups and individuals also vary widely.

Practitioners by no means always agree with each other’s practices.

For example, the anti-capitalist art group the Space Hijackers did a piece in 2004 about the contradiction between the capitalistic elements of Banksy and his use of political imagery.

Above: The Space Hijackers

Berlin human rights activist Irmela Mensah-Schramm has received global media attention and numerous awards for her 35-year campaign of effacing neo-Nazi and other right-wing extremist graffiti throughout Germany, often by altering hate speech in humorous ways.

Above: Irmela Mensah-Schramm

In the Serbian capital, Belgrade, graffiti depicting a uniformed former general of the Serbian army and war criminal, convicted for war crimes and crimes against humanity, including genocide and ethnic cleansing in the Bosnian War, Ratko Mladic, appeared in a military salute alongside the words: 

General, thank your mother“. 

Above: Ratko Mladic mural, Belgrade, Serbia

Aleks Eror, Berlin-based journalist, explains how “veneration of historical and wartime figures” through street art is not a new phenomenon in the region of former Yugoslavia, and that “in most cases is firmly focused on the future, rather than retelling the past“.

Eror is not only an analyst, but he is pointing to danger of such an expressions for the region’s future.

Above: Aleks Eror

In a long expose on the subject of Bosnian genocide denial, at Balkan Diskurs magazine and multimedia platform website, Kristina Gadže and Taylor Whitsell referred to these experiences as a young generations’ “cultural heritage“, in which young are being exposed to celebration and affirmation of war-criminals as part of their “formal education” and “inheritance“.

There are numerous examples of genocide denial through celebration and affirmation of war criminals throughout the region of Western Balkans inhabited by Serbs using this form of artistic expression.

Several more of these graffiti are found in the Serbian capital, and many more across Serbia and Bosnian and Herzegovinian administrative entity, Republika Srpska, which is the ethnic Serbian majority enclave.

Critics point that Serbia as a state, is willing to defend the mural of convicted war criminal, and have no intention to react on cases of genocide denial, noting that Interior Minister of Serbia, Aleksandar Vulin decision to ban any gathering with an intent to remove the mural, with the deployment of riot police, sends the message of “tacit endorsement“.

Consequently, on 9 November 2021, Serbian heavy police in riot gear, with graffiti creators and their supporters, blocked the access to the mural to prevent human rights groups and other activists to paint over it and mark the International Day Against Fascism and Antisemitism in that way, and even arrested two civic activist for throwing eggs at the graffiti.

Above: Flag of Serbia

Graffiti may also be used as an offensive expression.

This form of graffiti may be difficult to identify, as it is mostly removed by the local authority (as councils which have adopted strategies of criminalization also strive to remove graffiti quickly). 

Therefore, existing racist graffiti is mostly more subtle and at first sight, not easily recognized as “racist“.

It can then be understood only if one knows the relevant “local code” (social, historical, political, temporal, and spatial), which is seen as heteroglot and thus a ‘unique set of conditions‘ in a cultural context.

A spatial code, for example, could be that there is a certain youth group in an area that is engaging heavily in racist activities.

So, for residents (knowing the local code), a graffiti containing only the name or abbreviation of this gang already is a racist expression, reminding the offended people of their gang activities.

Also graffiti is in most cases, the herald of more serious criminal activity to come.

A person who does not know these gang activities would not be able to recognize the meaning of this graffiti.

Also if a tag of this youth group or gang is placed on a building occupied by asylum seekers, for example, its racist character is even stronger.

By making the graffiti less explicit (as adapted to social and legal constraints), these drawings are less likely to be removed, but do not lose their threatening and offensive character.

Above: Graffiti, George Floyd protest, Minneapolis, Minnesota, June 2020

Elsewhere, activists in Russia have used painted caricatures of local officials with their mouths as potholes, to show their anger about the poor state of the roads.

In Manchester, England, a graffitist painted obscene images around potholes, which often resulted in their being repaired within 48 hours.

Spray paint has many negative environmental effects.

The paint contains toxic chemicals, and the can uses volatile hydrocarbon gases to spray the paint onto a surface.

Volatile organic compound (VOC) leads to ground level ozone formation and most of graffiti related emissions are VOCs.

A 2010 paper estimates 4,862 tons of VOCs were released in the United States in activities related to graffiti.

Graffiti databases have increased in the past decade because they allow vandalism incidents to be fully documented against an offender and help the police and prosecution charge and prosecute offenders for multiple counts of vandalism.

They also provide law enforcement the ability to rapidly search for an offender’s moniker or tag in a simple, effective, and comprehensive way.

These systems can also help track costs of damage to city to help allocate an anti-graffiti budget.

The theory is that when an offender is caught putting up graffiti, they are not just charged with one count of vandalism.

They can be held accountable for all the other damage for which they are responsible.

This has two main benefits for law enforcement.

One, it sends a signal to the offenders that their vandalism is being tracked.

Two, a city can seek restitution from offenders for all the damage that they have committed, not merely a single incident.

These systems give law enforcement personnel real-time, street-level intelligence that allows them not only to focus on the worst graffiti offenders and their damage, but also to monitor potential gang violence that is associated with the graffiti.

To help address many of these issues, many local jurisdictions have set up graffiti abatement hotlines, where citizens can call in and report vandalism and have it removed.

San Diego’s hotline receives more than 5,000 calls per year, in addition to reporting the graffiti, callers can learn more about prevention.

Above: San Diego, California

One of the complaints about these hotlines is the response time.

There is often a lag time between a property owner calling about the graffiti and its removal.

The length of delay should be a consideration for any jurisdiction planning on operating a hotline.

Local jurisdictions must convince the callers that their complaint of vandalism will be a priority and cleaned off right away.

If the jurisdiction does not have the resources to respond to complaints in a timely manner, the value of the hotline diminishes.

Crews must be able to respond to individual service calls made to the graffiti hotline as well as focus on cleanup near schools, parks, and major intersections and transit routes to have the biggest impact.

Some cities offer a reward for information leading to the arrest and prosecution of suspects for tagging or graffiti related vandalism.

The amount of the reward is based on the information provided, and the action taken.

When police obtain search warrants in connection with a vandalism investigation, they are often seeking judicial approval to look for items such as:

  • cans of spray paint and nozzles from other kinds of aerosol sprays
  • etching tools, or other sharp or pointed objects, which could be used to etch or scratch glass and other hard surfaces
  • permanent marking pens, markers, or paint sticks
  • evidence of membership or affiliation with any gang or tagging crew
  • paraphernalia including any reference to “(tagger’s name)”
  • any drawings, writing, objects, or graffiti depicting taggers’ names, initials, logos, monikers, slogans, or any mention of tagging crew membership
  • any newspaper clippings relating to graffiti crime

I am all for the notion of free expression.

I cannot say I favour the notion of youth gangs, but I do ponder why they exist.

Poverty rates, crime rates and accessibility to weapons are factors.

The causes of street fighting are varied.

Originally, street fighting was a way of defending oneself.

In the Stone Age, fights were mostly aimed for survival purposes – protected territory, secured resources and protected families.

Humans fight to achieve status and belonging.

They do so because, in evolutionary terms, these are the surest routes to survival and increased reproduction.

As humans evolve, new conflicts arise in order to gratify more sophisticated wants.

The purposes of street fighting shifted to solve interpersonal conflicts.

These conflicts could be stratification, misunderstanding, hate speech or even retaliation.

For instance, in areas that are not under policy surveillance and criminally dominated, violence is believed to be the substantiation of superior reputation and pride. 

In other words, people take part in street fights to obtain dominance because of social status given to the ruler.

For another instance, men showed off their value in the sense that opponents’ self-esteem are on the verge of being destroyed from their insults, humiliation and vilification to which violence is the go-to resort.

Additionally, some fights are driven by alcohol.

Alcohol itself does not directly lead to violence, but it acts as a catalyst, allowing cheers from the crowds or provocation from opponents to ignite the fight between fighters.

Since the consumption of alcohol negatively impacts the brain function, drunk people fail to assess the situation which often results in overreacting and unpredictable fights.

Graffiti as advertising is merely capitalism taking advantage of the voice of dissent.

A Che Guevara T-shirt sold at a H & M does not a revolutionary make nor mean that a capitalist organization supports the notion of revolution demanding accountability from it.

I find it both amusing and disconcerting that marketers succeed at attracting the youth market by suggesting they rebel against society by adopting symbols of revolution so they can become more socially acceptable by their social group.

I support political graffiti if it truly is the sole method of dissent remaining against a regime that violates the rights of its citizenry.

That being said, if the political opinions expressed support the notion of violating the dignity of others I approve of the elimination of the graffiti but defend the right of expression by the artist despite how truly objectionable his expression might be.

People need expression even if I don’t like what they are saying.

Above: Graffiti, Ystad, Sweden

I do think graffiti should be limited to stationary objects.

I would object strongly to anyone defacing my car, especially if it is a message I do not wish to share with everyone who might see my car.

It is one thing limiting a message to one stationary place.

It is quite another making me the unwilling medium of a message I might not advocate.

Building owners can afford to pay to erase unwanted graffiti from the side of a building easier than a working class tenant in his car can afford.

If the graffiti does possess a message that I personally like, on the building of someone who can easily afford the graffiti’s removal, then I will only smile and walk on by.

Not my circus, not my monkeys.

I am no graffitist, for I lack both the courage and the artistry to express myself in this manner, but if someone creates in desperation then perhaps the need for dissent must be articulated in whatever form possible.

Above: An adaption of Eugène Delacroix’ Liberty Leading the People with an inscription “REVOLUTION HAVE STARTED HERE… AND WILL CONTINUE UNTIL…“, Bethlehem, Israel

There are very few individuals who have developed beyond the materialism that drives the planet.

Those who were supposed to pass on the torch of experience and insights to a new generation cannot be found in abundance.

As the young look at the society around them, materialistic, decadent, bourgeois in its values, bankrupt and violent, is it any wonder that they feel the need to express this dissatisfaction with their disillusionment?

Today’s generation is desperately trying to make some sense of their lives and out of the world.

Many of them are products of the middle class.

Some have rejected their materialistic backgrounds, the goal of a well-paid job, the suburban home, the latest model of automobile, club membership, first class travel, status and security, and everything that means “success“.

This is a time of tranquilizers, an age of alcohol, marriages endured, devastating divorces, high blood pressure, high pressure jobs, ulcers, frustration and disappointment in the so-called “good life“.

They see the incredible idiocy of leadership – those who were once treated with reverence and respect seem now worthy only of contempt.

Negativism now extends to all institutions, from the police to the courts to the very System itself.

We live in a world of mass media, of social media, which is as hypocritical as the society’s innate hypocrisy it exposes.

Democracy is viewed as nihilistic, dissent considered kin to bombing and murder.

The search for freedom has no compass, no road, no destination.

We are inundated with a rage of information and facts and yet remain woefully ignorant.

It is bedlam, a world-spinning frenzy.

We desperately seek a way of life that has some meaning or sense.

A way of life that means a certain degree of order, where things have some relationship and can be pieced together into a system that provides some clues as to what Life is about.

We set up religions, invent philosophies, create systems, formulate ideologies, yet never realizing that all values and factors are relative, fluid and ever-changing, like the patterns perceived in a turning kaleidoscope.

Today everything is complex and complicated to the point of incomprehension.

What sense does it make to build rockets to Mars while other men wait on welfare lines, starve in Africa, die needlessly in battle for the protection of other men’s property in the name of nationalism and honour?

We reach for the sublime and drown in the muck of madness.

Graffiti is the scream of madness, an expression of humanity almost silenced by an inhumane world.

Graffiti swears and laughs at the world, a world where the profound needs profanity to question it, a world hungry for laughter and love.

This is why I feel graffiti merits respect.

This is why I advocate graffiti as an art form, for art should speak to us about who we are and who we could be.

Above: Bunker near Berlin Anhalter Bahnhof – Those who build bunkers, throw bombs.

I deeply disapprove of graffiti that seeks to deny our darker nature, that paints the villains of that dark past as models worth emulating, that suggests the horrors of historically documented holocausts never happened, that monsters of hate should be made heroes of change.

Erase these scars from our psyche, please.

Above: Execution of Robert Blum by Austrian troops, 9 November 1848

(Robert Blum (1807 – 1848) was a German democratic politician, publicist, poet, publisher, revolutionist and member of the National Assembly of 1848.

In his fight for a strong, unified Germany he opposed ethnocentrism (to apply one’s own culture or ethnicity as a frame of reference to judge other cultures, practices, behaviours, beliefs and people, instead of using the standards of the particular culture involved). 

It was his strong belief that no one people should rule over another.

As such he was an opponent of the Prussian occupation of Poland and was in contact with the revolutionists there.

Blum was a critic of antisemitism, supported German Catholicism, and agitated for the equality of the sexes.

Although claiming immunity as a member of the National Assembly, he was arrested during a stay at the hotel “Stadt London” in Vienna and executed for his role in the Revolutions of 1848 in the German states.)

Even as we acknowledge that silence is seen by the powerful as assent, we cannot deny the world as it was nor can we hope for change by refusing to accept the world unless it is what we would like it to be.

Accepting the world as it is does not in any sense weaken our desire to change it into what we believe it should be, but it is necessary to begin where the world is if we are going to change it into what it could be.

And this is where graffiti fails.

For change will be resisted if it is not change from within.

Graffiti has always been an exposure to the new, to the radical, to the extreme.

Above: Graffiti, Pestszentlőrinc, Budapest, Hungary

Dostoyevski said that taking a new step is what people fear most.

Taking a new step, seeing the world in a new way, is why graffiti is viewed by many as something to be feared, to be abhorred, to be rejected.

Any revolutionary change must be preceded by a passive, affirmative, non-challenging attitude toward change among the mass of the people.

They must feel so frustrated, so defeated, so lost, so futureless in the prevailing system that they are willing to let go of the past and change the future.

Above: Russian writer Fyodor Dostoyevsky (1821 – 1881)

This is why I do not foresee revolution in America’s future soon nor in Turkey’s immediate future regardless of the outcome of next April’s elections.

Above: Flag of the United Staets of America

Above: Flag of Turkey

For all of its flaws people will protect a system until the day that everyone has had enough.

Graffiti is the expression of the few who have already reached that point.

Youth is impatient with the preliminaries that are essential to purposeful action.

Effective organization is thwarted by the desire for instant and dramatic change – the demand for revelation rather than revolution.

The young desire confrontation for confrontation’s sake.

Graffiti is the expression of that desire.

To build a powerful organization takes time.

It is tedious, but change takes time.

What is the alternative to working inside the System?

Rhetoric, screaming, violence, militant mouthing-off.

Spouting quotes from Mao, Castro and Che Guevara is as germane to our highly technological, computerized, cybernetic, nuclear-powered, mass media, social media society as a stagecoach on a jet runaway at JFK Airport.

Revolution must be preceded by reformation, because a political revolution cannot survive without the supporting base of a popular reformation.

Above: Martin Luther (1483 – 1546) posting his 95 Theses on the door of Wittenberg’s All Saints’ Church, 31 October 1517

People don’t like to step abruptly out of the security of familiar experience.

This is why graffiti isn’t universally embraced by everyone.

People need a bridge to cross from their own experience to a new one.

Graffiti is not that bridge, but rather it is a challenge to the common experience.

Graffiti attempts to shake up the prevailing patterns, aims to agitate, desires disenchantment and discontent with current values of the status quo, wants to produce a passion for change in a passive unchallenging climate.

John Adams wrote:

The American Revolution was effected before the war commenced.

The revolution was in the hearts and minds of the people.

This radical change in the principles, opinions, sentiments and affections of the people was the real revolution.

Effective graffiti captures passion and imagination.

Above: John Adams (1735 – 1826) (US President: 1797 – 1801)

A revolution without a prior reformation will either collapse or become a totalitarian tyranny.

A reformation means that masses of people have reached the point of disillusionment with past ways and values.

They don’t know what will work but they do know that the prevailing system doesn’t.

They won’t act for change but won’t strongly oppose those who do.

From time to time the enemy has been at our gates, but the enemy within has always been the hidden and malignant inertia of the common citizen, rendered invisible by apathy, anonymity and depersonalization.

There is no darker or devastating destiny than the death of a man’s faith in himself and in his power to direct the future.

Graffiti that advocates violence or provokes violent reactions because of its offensive nature is not graffiti worth preserving.

Graffiti that elicits laughter, demonstrates beauty, illuminates love, promises a positive vision of the future, and offers the common man a chance to create discussion deserves protection, admiration and respect.

This is what the world desperately needs:

Laughter, beauty, love, hope and communication.

Above: Graffito, Sliema, Italy

Miami is a city worth visiting, for it is a city of laughter, beauty, love and hope.

The Museum of Graffiti in Miami attempts to communicate these virtues.

Come to Miami.

Visit the Museum.

Enjoy yourself.

Discover how life is both a blessing and a lesson.

Sources: Wikipedia / Wikivoyage / Google / Saul D. Alinsky, Rules for Radicals / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Fyodor Dostoyevsky, Notes from Underground / Fyodor Dostoyevsky, The Idiot / Noel Gallagher (Oasis), “Wonderwall” / Connie Ogle, “The Museum of Graffiti in Miami“, Miami Herald, 25 February 2022 / Marcel Proust, In Search of Lost Time / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Esther Vilar, The Manipulated Man

Above: Strteet art, New York City, New York, USA

Today is gonna be the day that they’re gonna throw it back to you
And by now, you should’ve somehow realised what you got to do
I don’t believe that anybody feels the way I do about you now

Backbeat, the word is on the street that the fire in your heart is out
I’m sure you’ve heard it all before, but you never really had a doubt
I don’t believe that anybody feels the way I do about you now

And all the roads we have to walk are winding
And all the lights that lead us there are blinding
There are many things that I would like to say to you, but I don’t know how

Because maybe
You’re gonna be the one that saves me
And after all
You’re my wonderwall

Today was gonna be the day, but they’ll never throw it back to you
By now, you should’ve somehow realised what you’re not to do
I don’t believe that anybody feels the way I do about you now

And all the roads that lead you there were winding
And all the lights that light the way are blinding
There are many things that I would like to say to you, but I don’t know how

I said maybe
You’re gonna be the one that saves me
And after all

You’re my wonderwall

I said maybe (I said maybe)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me
And after all
You’re my wonderwall

I said maybe (I said maybe)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me (saves me)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me (saves me)
You’re gonna be the one that saves me (saves me)

Swiss Miss and the Road to the DMZ

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 27 November 2022

A half a century has passed since the events I am about to describe took place half a world away.

This description is made more complex as neither Heidi Ho nor myself are either Vietnamese or from nations that they have struggled against.

Add to this the complication that Heidi as a tourist and I as a scholar are merely observers of Vietnam.

Complete comprehension, due to lack of experience of the history and lives of all involved in the events that follow below, may not be possible here.

All that being said and as painful as the past can be, whether personal or political, sometimes we cannot learn the lessons of the past without perusing it properly.

Above: Flag of Vietnam

My speculations of Vietnam began when I was a mere lad of 18.

It was October 1983 when I moved into Dorothy O’s boarding house in Sainte-Foy, Québec.

Above: Coat of arms of the City of Sainte Foy, Québec, Canada

Her home should have been named “Little Lachute” for I was joined by fellow LRHS alumni Erick VH and David H.

Above: Rue Principale, Lachute, Québec, Canada

Above: Logo of Laurentian Regional High School, Lachute, Québec, Canada

I cannot look back at my time in Mrs. O’Brien’s home without feelings of great embarrassment, for I was a young man with some psychological difficulties – unresolved childhood difficulties that would only be quietly dealt with after years of travelling.

Erick and David had their own quirks as well.

Erick was expected to carry on his family’s business which he ultimately rejected.

David was a man seemly without direction, save for his obsessive interest in owning pit bull terriers and his ceaseless study of the Vietnam War.

We all came from Argenteuil County and yet it was if we had all come from three different realities of Lachute.

David was nine years my senior and he had decided to return to his postsecondary studies.

History was his passion and he intended to study at Carleton University after completing his degree at St. Lawrence College in Ste-Foy, a suburb of Québec City.

Above: Logo of Carleton University, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

I did not know what I would do with my future, save that I sought to continue my education in the English language in the province of Québec in a location as far away as possible from Lachute as I could get.

Above: Flag of the Province of Québec, Canada

That choice was Québec City, a choice further desired because photos I had seen of the place made me think of Europe, which I thirsted to see one day.

Above: Images of Québec City, Québec, Canada

Erick’s decision-making process was not so clear to me.

And a closeness between Erick and I that was never sought nor found in high school was neither sought nor found at Mrs. O’s, despite our mutual lodgings and origins.

Above: LRHS, Lachute, Québec, Canada

Ultimately, David, Erick and I were men.

Men whose pain is never punctuated with tears and easing laughter.

Stiff-armed and choked, there were no strong brotherly hugs from which to draw strength and assurance.

No mutual support, no comfort, no appreciation.

Massive walking risks, twisted up inside to suppress emotions felt but vehemently denied.

We were not friends.

Perhaps men cannot be friends, at least not in our immaturity.

A subtle and elaborate code governs the humour, the put-downs, the ways in which serious feeling or vulnerability is deflected.

Friends offer a man enormous comfort.

Erick and David and I were never friends.

We were just three guys from the same region and living in the same boarding house and studying at the same college.

And men who lack a network of friends are seriously impaired from truly living our lives.

Friends alleviate the neurotic overdependence on a woman for every emotional need.

A role a woman never seeks nor wants.

Men have issues unique to their gender.

Male friends understand these issues in ways that women possibly cannot.

Other men know how men feel.

Other men help a man learn how to be a man.

So many men lead lives of quiet frustration because they believe that they are exiled in their isolation.

Millions of women complain about men’s lack of feeling.

Men themselves feel numb and confused about what they really want.

Perhaps if men talked to one another more, perhaps we would understand ourselves better.

Perhaps we would then have more to say to women.

Perhaps then our hearts would truly come alive.

Just as men’s voices have a different tone, so do their feelings.

We are still expected to be tough, to control our feelings in a crisis.

But letting those feelings go, even the admission of having feelings of vulnerability, loss and shame, even the acceptance that there is indeed a desire for respect for the pain and endurance that life demands, has left so many men tense and numb.

Even the thought of seeing David and Erick again creates within me feelings of tension and apprehension.

I am a man and like many men I too am a mess.

The few moments that David and I ever really conversed were when he tried to explain his fascination with the Vietnam War.

Above: Images of the Vietnam / American / Second Indochina War (1955 – 1975)

Heidi‘s journey through the DMZ occurred on Saturday afternoon, 27 April 2019, as she and her travelling companion motorcycled from Vinh to Hué along Highway 1.

Above: Images of Vinh City, Nghe An Province, Vietnam

Above: Imperial City, Hué, Thua Thien Hué Province, Vietnam

Vietnam’s Demilitarized Zone, or DMZ, is the area around the former border between North and South Vietnam.

Historically it was a narrow band of terrain extending from Laos to the coast, five km on either side of the Ben Hai River, roughly on the 17th Parallel, north latitude.

Above: Hien Luong Bridge, Ben Hai River, Vietnam

The area saw heavy fighting in the war, and ruins of old American military bases still exist.

Even if you’re not interested in the history, the area has some spectacular mountain scenery and rugged jungles.

Above: 1969 map of the Demilitarized Zone

Heidi is a traveller, an artist, a musician.

The driving distance from Vinh to Hué is 366 kilometers (227 miles), a half-day’s journey without stops.

Above: Signpost of National Route 1 (Quốc lộ 1), Vietnam

Above: Vietnam National Route 1 map

If I know Heidi at all, I imagine she was more eager to see Hué than to linger over the devastating DMZ.

And why not?

Hué allows an exploration of the past at a leisurely pace with a history too far removed to feel significant today.

It is a city with a meandering river, a walled citadel containing an imperial city, attractive residential streets and prolific gardens, shops and pagodas.

That being said, Hué is not everyone’s cup of tea.

Entrance fees to tourist attractions are expensive and tours annoy some travellers, despite the quality of the DMZ tours available from Hué.

Above: Truong Tien Bridge, Perfume River, Hué, Vietnam

Ride down the coast, overnight in Hué, onwards toward Ho Chi Minh City, that is the plan of many a (wo)man heading south from Hanoi.

I neither condone or condemn this course of action.

I merely seek to comprehend the reasoning behind this decision.

Above: Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

Above: Hanoi, Vietnam

My current interest in the Vietnam War is triggered by three factors:

  • Ongoing accounts of the Russian – Ukrainian War have left me curious as to the nature of war.

Above: Flag of Russia

Above: Flag of Ukraine

  • Turkey, where I currently reside, has mandatory conscription of young men into military service – two men with whom I am acquainted with – one who is presently serving, one who will serve soon – have been teaching colleagues of mine at the school in Eskişehir that has employed us.

Turkey is presently not engaged in a full-scale war, but they nonetheless have to live with the knowledge that one day they might be prepared to kill another human being, to experience the actual horror of battle.

Above: Flag of Turkey

The DMZ lies on the road through which Heidi has travelled and whose travels I painstakingly record.

Above: The Vietnamese demilitarised zone (DMZ) from north of the Ben Hai River at the Route 1 bridge crossing.

To the left is a recreated South Vietnamese guard tower, and through the arch in the distance, the six ascending spires are a newly-built monument.

The inscription says “Hồ Chủ tịch muôn năm!” (Long live Chairman Hồ!).

As Canadians (and Heidi as Swiss) of the 21st century, I do not believe we can fully understand the Vietnam War, despite the fact that in the entire recorded history of the human race there has always been a war somewhere on the planet.

Above: Flag of Canada

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Attention is presently focused on the Russian – Ukrainian conflict, but that does not mean that conflict, death and suffering has suddenly ceased elsewhere.

Above: Map of ongoing conflicts around the world – (number of combat-related deaths in current or past year)

(brown) Major wars (10,000 + deaths) / (red) Wars (1,000 – 9,999 deaths) / (orange) Conflicts (100 – 999 deaths) / (yellow) Skirmishes and clashes (1–99)

The list of ongoing armed conflicts includes internal conflict in Myanmar, conflict in Afghanistan, the Mexican Drug War, the Yemeni Civil War, the Syrian Civil War, and civil conflict in Ethiopia.

Above: Flag of Myanmar

Above: Flag of Afghanistan

Above: Flag of Mexico

Above: Flag of Yemen

Above: Flag of Syria

Above: Flag of Ethiopia

There are continuing troubles in Colombia, Somalia, the Congo, Nigeria, the Magreb region of North Africa, Iraq, Sudan, Mali, the Central African Republic, East Africa, Iran, Pakistan, Palestine, Indonesia, India, the Philippines, unrest between Armenia and Azerbaijan, conflict in the Niger Delta, troubles in Egypt, Chad and Cameroon, border clashes between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, drug wars in the Philippines and Bangladesh….

The list is incomplete and troubling.

War, huh, yeah
What is it good for?
Absolutely nothing, uhh
War, huh, yeah
What is it good for?
Absolutely nothing
Say it again, y’all
War, huh (good God)
What is it good for?
Absolutely nothing, listen to me, oh

War, I despise
‘Cause it means destruction of innocent lives
War means tears to thousands of mother’s eyes
When their sons go off to fight
And lose their lives

I said, war, huh (good God, y’all)
What is it good for?
Absolutely nothing, just say it again
War (whoa), huh (oh Lord)
What is it good for?
Absolutely nothing, listen to me

It ain’t nothing but a heart-breaker
(War) Friend only to the undertaker
Oh, war it’s an enemy to all mankind
The thought of war blows my mind
War has caused unrest
Within the younger generation
Induction then destruction
Who wants to die? Oh

War, huh (good God, y’all)
What is it good for?
Absolutely nothing
Say it, say it, say it
War (uh-huh), huh (yeah, huh)
What is it good for?
Absolutely nothing, listen to me

It ain’t nothing but a heart-breaker
(War) It’s got one friend, that’s the undertaker
Oh, war, has shattered many a young man’s dreams
Made him disabled, bitter and mean
Life is much too short and precious
To spend fighting wars each day
War can’t give life
It can only take it away, oh

War, huh (good God, y’all)
What is it good for?
Absolutely nothing, say it again

War (whoa), huh (oh Lord)
What is it good for?
Absolutely nothing, listen to me

It ain’t nothing but a heart breaker
(War) Friend only to the undertaker, woo
Peace, love and understanding, tell me
Is there no place for them today?
They say we must fight to keep our freedom
But Lord knows there’s got to be a better way, oh

War, huh (good God, y’all)
What is it good for? You tell me (nothing)
Say it, say it, say it, say it

War (good God), huh (now, huh)
What is it good for?
Stand up and shout it (nothing)

Nevertheless, it is difficult to understand that those who served on either side of the War were patriotic.

The Vietnamese were less concerned with spreading Communism than they were in seeking self-determination for their homeland.

Above: Emblem of Vietnam

American soldiers believed that they were fighting for their country against a global threat, but there were few who didn’t think that the War was a monstruous mistake, that they were sold down the river by a long series of US Presidents and Washington politicians, few of whom ever served, fewer still who let their children serve, and none who ever studied the history of the Vietnamese people nor the story of Vietnam where they chose to send soldiers to bleed and die, because they were afraid to admit they made a mistake.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

Perhaps this blogpost could be viewed as interesting to those who served in the War or for those who have seen the DMZ and have pondered the folly and the fear, the courage and sacrifice represented by that devastated part of the planet.

But that view is mistaken, for the veterans and the Vietnam visitors who took the time to ponder, they already know the story.

This is intended for a far more important purpose:

This is for those who were never in Vietnam, those who are too young to remember those turbulent times.

This is a story of a troubling time in world history that should never be repeated, but is a scenario always repeated somewhere else.

To understand a war, you need to understand the background of it.

Let us begin.

The first Western visitors to the Vietnamese peninsula were probably traders from ancient Rome who sailed into the ports of the Kingdom of Champa (192 – 1832) in the 2nd century CE.

Above: Senatus Populusque Romanus (the Senate and the People of Rome) (753 BCE – 476 CE)

Above: Tháp Hòa Lai, Ninh Thuận, Vietnam

Marco Polo sailed up the coast up the coast in the 13th century on his way to China.

Above: Venetian merchant / explorer Marco Polo (1254 – 1324)

But more significant was the arrival of a Portuguese merchant, Antonio Da Faria, at the port of Fai Fo (Hoi An) in 1535.

The Portuguese established their own trading post at Fai Fo, then one of Southeast Asia’s greatest ports, crammed with vessels from China and Japan.

They were soon followed by other European maritime powers.

Above: Hoi An, Quang Nam Province, Vietnam

With the traders came missionaries, who found a ready audience, especially among peasant farmers and others near the bottom of the established Confucian hierarchy.

Above: The teacher Confucius (551 – 479 BCE)

It didn’t take long before the ruling elite felt threatened by subversive Christian ideas.

Missionary work was banned after the 1630s.

Many priests were expelled or even executed.

But enforcement was sporadic.

Above: The Church of the Holy Sepulchre (or the Church of the Resurrection), Jerusalem, Israel

By the 17th century the Catholic Church claimed several hundred thousand converts.

Above: St. Peter’s Basilica (the largest Catholic church in the world), Vatican City

At this time Vietnam was breaking up into regional factions and the Europeans were quick to exploit growing tensions between the Nguyen and Trinh lords, providing weapons in exchange for trading concessions.

However, when the civil war ended in 1674 the merchants lost their advantage.

Gradually the English, Dutch and French closed down their trading posts until only the Portuguese remained in Fai Fo.

Above: Flag of Portugal

Towards the end of the 18th century, the remaining Catholic missions provided an opening for French merchants wishing to challenge Britain’s presence in the Far East.

When a large-scale rebellion broke out in Vietnam in the early 1770s, these entrepreneurs saw their chance to establish a firmer footing on the Indochinese peninsula.

Above: Flag of France

As the 18th century progressed, insurrections flared up throughout the countryside.

Mostly were easily quelled, but in 1771 three brothers raised their standard in Tay Son village, west of Quy Nhon and ended up ruling the whole country.

The Tay Son rebellion gained broad support among dispossessed peasants, ethnic minorities, small merchants and townspeople attracted by the brothers’ message of equal rights, justice and liberty.

As rebellion spread through the south, the Tay Son army rallied even more converts when they seized land from the wealthy and redistributed it to the poor.

By the middle of 1786 the rebels had overthrown both the Trinh and Nguyen lords, again leaving the Le dynasty intact.

When the Le monarch called on the Chinese in 1788 to help remove the Tay Son usurpers, the Chinese happily obliged by occupying Hanoi.

At this the middle brother (Nguyen Hue) declared himself Emperor Quang Trung and quick-marched his army 600 km from Hué to defeat the Chinese at Dong Da, on the outskirts of Hanoi.

With Hué as his capital, Quang Trung set about implementing his promised reforms, but when he died prematurely in 1792, aged 39, his 10-year-old son was unable to hold onto power.

Above: Statue of Emperor Quang Trung (1753 – 1792) in the front of the Museum of Quang Trung in Quy Nhơn, Vietnam

One of the few Nguyen lords to have survived the Tay Son rebellion in the south was Prince Nguyen Anh.

The prince made several unsuccessful attempts to regain the throne to the mid-1780s.

After one such failure he fled to Phu Quoc Island where he met a French bishop, Pigneau de Béhaine.

With an eye on future religious and commercial concessions, the bishop offered to make approaches to the French on behalf of the Nguyen.

A treaty was eventually signed in 1787, promising military aid in exchange for territorial and trading concessions, though France failed to deliver the assistance due to a financial crisis preceding the French Revolution.

The bishop went ahead anyway, raising a motley force of 4,000 armed mercenaries and a handful of ships.

The expedition was launched in 1789 and Nguyen Anh entered Hanoi in 1802 to claim the throne as Emperor Gia Long.

Bishop de Béthaine did not live to see the victory or to reinforce the treaty.

He died in 1799 and received a stately funeral.

Above: Father Pierre Joseph Georges Pigneau de Behaine (1741 – 1799)

For the first time Vietnam, as the century was now called, fell under a single authority from the northern border all the way down to the point of Ca Mau.

In the hope of promoting unity, Gia Long established his capital in the centre, at Hué, where he built a magnificent citadel in imitation of the Chinese emperor’s Forbidden City.

The choice of architecture was appropriate:

Gia Long and the Nguyen dynasty he founded were resolutely Confucian.

Above: Meridian Gate, Imperial City, Hué, Vietnam

The new emperor immediately abolished the Tay Son reforms, reimposing the old feudal order.

Land confiscated from the rebels was redistributed to loyal mandarins, the bureaucracy was reinstated and the majority of peasants found themselves worse off than before.

Gradually the country was closed to the outside world and to modernizing influences that might have helped it withstand the onslaught of French military intervention in the mid-19th century.

On the other hand, Gia Long and his successors did much to improve the infrastructure of Vietnam, developing a road network, extending the irrigation systems and rationalizing the provincial administration.

Under the Nguyen, the arts, particular literature and court music, flourished.

Above: Emperor Gia Long (1762 – 1820)

By refusing to grant any trade concessions, Gia Long disappointed the French who had helped him to the throne.

He did, however, permit a certain amount of religious freedom, though his successors were far more suspicious of the missionaries’ intentions.

After 1825, several edicts were issued forbidding missionary work, accompanied by sporadic, occasionally brutal persecutions of Christians, both Vietnamese converts and foreign priests.

Ultimately, this provided the French with the excuse they needed to annex the country.

Above: Great Seal of French Indochina

French governments grew increasingly imperialistic as the 19th century wore on.

In the Far East, as Britain threatened to dominate trade with China, France began to see Vietnam as a potential route into the resource-rich provinces of Yunnan and southern China.

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland

Above: (in pink) The British Empire

Not that France had any formal policy to colonize Indochina.

Rather it came about in a piecemeal fashion, driven as often as not by private adventurers or the unilateral actions of French officials.

In 1847, two French naval vessels began the process where they bombarded Da Nang on the pretext of rescuing a French priest.

Above: Han River Bridge in Da Nang, Vietnam

Reports of Catholic persecutions were deliberately exaggerated until Napoleon III was finally persuaded to launch an armada of 14 ships and 2,500 men in 1858.

Above: French Emperor Napoleon III (1808 – 1873)

After capturing Da Nang in September, the force moved south to take Saigon, against considerable opposition, and the whole Mekong Delta over the next three years.

Faced with serious unrest to the north, Emperor Tu Duc signed a treaty in 1862 granting France the three eastern provinces of the Delta plus trading rights in selected ports, and allowing missionaries the freedom to proselytize.

Above: Emperor Tu Duc (1829 – 1883)

Five years later, French forces annexed the remaining southern provinces to create the colony of Cochinchina.

France became embroiled in domestic troubles and the French government was divided on whether to continue the enterprise, but their administrators in Cochinchina had their eyes on the north.

Above: Cochinchina, 1867

The first attempt to take Hanoi and open up the Red River into China failed in 1873.

A larger force was dispatched in 1882 and within a few months, France was in control of Hanoi and the lower reaches of the Red River Delta.

Spurned on by this success, the French Parliament financed the first contingents of the French Expeditionary Force just as the Nguyen were floundering in a succession crisis following the death of Tu Duc.

In August 1883, when the French fleet sailed into the mouth of the Perfume River, near Hué, the new emperor was compelled to meet their demands.

Above: French Far East Expeditionary Force badge

Annam (central Vietnam) and Tonkin (the north) became protectorates of France, to be combined with Cochinchina, Cambodia and, later, Laos to form the Union of Indochina after 1887.

Above: Flag of Cambodia

Above: Flag of Laos

For a population brought up on legends of heroic victories over superior forces, the ease with which France had occupied was a deep psychological blow.

The earliest resistance movements focused on the restoration of the monarchy, such as the Can Vuong (save the king) movement of the 1890s, but any emperor showing signs of patriotism was swiftly removed by the French administration.

Up until the mid-1920s, Vietnam’s fragmented anticolonial movements were easily controlled by the Sûreté, the formidable French secret police.

On the whole, the nationalists’ aims were political rather than social or economic.

Most failed to appeal to the majority of Vietnamese.

Gradually, however, the nationalists saw that a more radical approach was called for.

An influential leader named Phan Boi Chau finally called for the violent overthrow of the colonial regime.

Above: Phan Boi Chau (1867 – 1940)

Meanwhile, over the border in southern China, the Revolutionary Youth League was founded in 1925.

Above: Flag of China

Vietnam’s first Marxist-Leninist organization, its founding father was a certain Ho Chi Minh.

Above: German philosopher Karl Marx (1818 – 1883)

Above: Russian revolutionary Vladimir Lenin (1870 – 1924)

Above: Vietnamese revolutionary Ho Chi Minh (1890 – 1969)

Born in 1890, the son of a patriotic minor official, Ho was already in trouble with the French authorities in his teens.

He left Vietnam in 1911, spending several years wandering the world.

Above: (in green) Location of Vietnam

He worked in the dockyards of Brooklyn and as a pastry chef in London’s Carlton Hotel, then turned up in Paris after World War One under one of his pseudonyms, Nguyen Ai Quoc (Nguyen the Patriot).

Above: Brooklyn Navy Yard, Brooklyn, New York City, New York, USA (1918)

Above: 1905 postcard of The Carlton Hotel (1899 – 1940), London, England

Above: Paris, France

In France, Ho became increasingly active among other exiled dissidents exploring new ways to bring an end to colonial rule.

At this time one of the few political groups actively supporting anticolonial movements were the Communists.

Above: Hammer and sickle symbol of Communism

In 1920, Ho became a founding member of the French Communist Party.

By 1923, he was in Moscow, training as a Communist agent.

Above: Red Square, Moscow, Russia

A year later, he went to southern China, where he later set up Vietnam’s first Marxist-Leninist organization, the Revolutionary Youth League, which attracted a band of impassioned young Vietnamese.

Above: Flag of the Communist Party of Vietnam

Although many other subsequently famous revolutionaries worked with Ho, it was largely his fierce dedication, single-mindedness and tremendous charisma that held the nationalist movement together and finally propelled the country to independence.

The first test of Ho’s leadership came in 1929 when, in his absence, the League split into three separate Communist parties.

In Hong Kong a year later, Ho persuaded the rival groups into one Indochinese Communist Party whose main goal was an independent Vietnam governed by workers, peasants and soldiers.

In preparation for the revolution, cadres were sent into rural areas and among urban workers to set up party cells.

Above: Hong Kong, China

The timing could not have been better:

Unemployment and poverty were on the increase as the Great Depression took hold, while France became less willing to commit resources to its colonies.

Above:  Florence Thompson (1903 – 1983) with several of her children in a photograph known as “Migrant Mother“.

The Library of Congress caption reads:

Destitute pea pickers in California. Mother of seven children. Age thirty-two. Nipomo, California

In the 1930s, the Federal Security Agency (FSA) (1939 – 1953) employed several photographers to document the effects of the Great Depression on the population of America.

Many of the photographs can also be seen as propaganda images to support the U.S. government’s policy distributing support to the worst affected, poorer areas of the country.

Dorothea Lange’s (1895 – 1965) image of migrant pea picker, Florence Owens Thompson, and her family has become an icon of resilience in the face of adversity.

The child to the viewer’s right was Thompson’s daughter, Katherine (later Katherine McIntosh), 4 years old.

For his efforts, the French authorities placed a death sentence on Ho’s head.

He was arrested and imprisoned in the British Colony of Hong Kong.

His release was later arranged by his counsel, who circulated confusion about his identity and rumours that he had died of tuberculosis.

Above: Flag of Hong Kong

Throughout the 1930s Vietnam was plagued with strikes and labour unrest, of which the most important was the Nghe Tinh uprising in the summer of 1930.

French planes bombed a crowd of 20,000 demonstrators marching on Vinh.

Within days, villagers had seized control of much of the surrounding countryside, some setting up revolutionary councils to evict wealthy landlords and redistribute land to the peasants.

The uprising demonstrated the power of socialist organizations, but proved disastrous in the short term:

Thousands of peasants were killed or imprisoned, the leaders were executed and the Communist Party structure was badly mauled.

Most of the ringleaders ended up in the notorious penal colony of Poulo Condore, which came to be known as the “University of the Revolution“.

It is estimated that the French held some 10,000 activists in prison by the late 1930s.

Above: Con Dao Prison, Poulo Condore Island, Vietnam

Despite much talk of the “civilizing mission” of imperial rule, the French were more interested in the economic potential of their new possession.

Governor-General Paul Doumer launched a massive programme of infrastructural development, constructing railways, bridges and roads, and draining vast areas of the Mekong Delta swamp, all funded under punitive taxes, with state monopolies on opium, alcohol and salt accounting for 70% of government revenues.

Above: Paul Doumer (1857 – 1932)(French President: 1931 – 1932)

During the Great Depression of the 1930s, markets collapsed, peasants were forced off the land to work as indentured labour in the new rubber, tea and coffee estates or in the mines, often under brutal conditions.

Heavy taxes exacerbated rural poverty.

Any commercial or industrial enterprises were kept firmly in French hands or were controlled by the small minority of Vietnamese and Chinese who actually benefitted under the new regime.

On the positive side, mass vaccination and health programmes did bring the frequent epidemics of cholera, smallpox and plague under control.

Education was a thornier issue:

Overall, education levels deteriorated during French rule, particularly among unskilled labourers, but a small elite from the emerging urban middle class received a broader, French-based education and a few went to universities in Europe.

Not that it got them very far:

Vietnamese were barred from all but the most menial jobs in the colonial administration.

Ironically, it was this frustrated and alienated group, imbued with the ideas of Western liberals and Chinese reformers, who began to challenge French.

Above: Flag Tower, Hanoi, Vietnam

The German occupation of France in 1940 suddenly changed the whole political landscape:

Not only did it demonstrate to the Vietnamese the vulnerability of their colonial masters, but it also overturned the established order in Vietnam and provided Ho Chi Minh with the opportunity he had been waiting for.

Above: Flag of Nazi Germany (1935 – 1945)

The immediate repercussion was the Japanese occupation of Indochina after Vichy France signed allowing Japan to station troops in the colony, while leaving the French colonization in place.

Above: Emblem of Vichy France (l’État Français)(1940 – 1944)

By mid-1941 the region’s coalmines, rice fields and military installations were all under Japanese control.

Some Vietnamese nationalist groups welcomed this turn of events as the Japanese made encouraging notices about autonomy and “Asia for Asians“.

Others, mostly Communist groups, declared their opposition to all foreign intervention and continued to operate from secret bases in the mountainous region that flakes the border between China and Vietnam.

Above: The Empire of Japan at its greatest extent (1942)

By this time, Ho Chi Minh had reappeared in southern China, from where he walked over the border into Vietnam, wearing a Chinese-style tunic and rubber-tyre sandals, carrying his rattan trunk and trusty Hermes typewriter.

The date was February 1941.

Ho had been in exile for 30 years.

In Pac Bo Cave, near Cao Bang, Ho met with other resistance leaders, including Vo Nguyen Giap and Pham Van Dong, to start the next phase in the fight for national liberation.

Above: Pac Bo Cave, Cao Bang Province, Vietnam – The cave, in which Ho Chi Minh lived for seven weeks, during February and March 1941, when he returned after 30 years of exile

Above: General Võ Nguyên Giáp (1911 – 2013)

Above: Phạm Văn Đồng (1906 – 2000) (Prime Minister of Vietnam: 1955 – 1987)

The League for the Independence of Vietnam, better known as the Viet Minh, was founded in May 1941.

Over the next few years Viet Minh recruits received military training in southern China.

Gradually the Viet Minh established liberated zones in the northern mountains to provide bases for future guerilla operations.

Above: Viet Minh flag, later the flag of North Vietnam, later the flag of Vietnam

With Japanese defeat looking ever more likely, Ho Chi Minh set off once again into China to seek military and financial support from the Chinese and from the Allied forces operating out of Kunming.

Above: Kunming, Yunan Province, China

Ho also made contact with the American Office of Strategic Services (OSS)(forerunner of the CIA), which promised him limited arms, much to the anger of the Free French who were already planning their return to Indochina.

In return for American aid the Viet Minh provided information about Japanese forces and rescued Allied pilots shot down over Vietnam.

Above: OSS Insignia

Above: Hồ Chí Minh (third from left, standing) with the OSS in 1945

Later, in 1945, an American team arrived in Ho’s Cao Bang base, where they found him suffering from malaria, dysentery and dengue fever:

It is said they saved his life.

Above: Cao Bang City, Cao Bang Province, Vietnam

Meanwhile, suspecting a belated French counterattack, Japanese forces seized full control of the country in March 1945.

They declared a nominally independent state under the leadership of Bao Dai, the last Nguyen emperor, and imprisoned most of the French army.

The Viet Minh quickly moved onto the offensive, helped to some extent by a massive famine that ravaged northern Vietnam that summer.

Above: Emperor Bao Dai (1913 – 1997)

Above: Famine in Vietnam, 1945

One to two million Vietnamese starved to death in the Red River Delta of northern Vietnam due to the Japanese, as the Japanese seized Vietnamese rice and didn’t pay.

In Phat Diem, Vietnamese farmer Di Ho was one of the few survivors who saw the Japanese steal grain.

The North Vietnamese government accused both France and Japan of the famine.

Võ An Ninh took photographs of dead and dying Vietnamese during the Great Famine.

Starving Vietnamese were dying throughout northern Vietnam in 1945 due to the Japanese seizure of their crops by the time the Chinese came to disarm the Japanese and Vietnamese corpses were all throughout the streets of Hanoi and had to be cleaned up by students.

Then, in early August, US forces dropped the first atom bomb on Hiroshima, precipitating the Japanese surrender on 14 August.

Left picture : At the time this photo was made, smoke billowed 20,000 feet above Hiroshima while smoke from the burst of the first atomic bomb had spread over 10,000 feet on the target at the base of the rising column.

Six planes of the 509th Composite Group participated in this mission: one to carry the bomb (Enola Gay), one to take scientific measurements of the blast (The Great Artiste), the third to take photographs (Necessary Evil), while the others flew approximately an hour ahead to act as weather scouts (6 August 1945).

Bad weather would disqualify a target as the scientists insisted on a visual delivery.

The primary target was Hiroshima, the secondary was Kokura and the tertiary was Nagasaki.

Right picture : Atomic bombing of Nagasaki on 9 August 1945

The Japanese surrender left a power vacuum that Ho Chi Minh was quick to exploit.

On 15 August, Ho called for a national uprising, which later came to be known as the August Revolution.

Within four days, Hanoi was seething with pro-Viet Minh demonstrations.

In two weeks most of Vietnam came under their control.

Emperor Bao Dai handed over his imperial sword to Ho’s provisional government at the end of August.

Above: Occupation of Tonkin Palace, Hanoi, Vietnam, 19 August 1945

On 2 September 1945, Ho Chi Minh proclaimed the establishment of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, cheered by a massive crowd in Hanoi’s Ba Dinh Square.

For the first time in 80 years, Vietnam was an independent country.

Famously, Ho’s Declaration of Independence quoted from the American Declaration:

All men are created equal.

They are endowed by their Creator with certain inalienable rights, among these are life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness.

But this, and subsequent appeals for American help against the looming threat of recolonization, fell on deaf ears as America became increasingly concerned at Communist expansion.

Above: Ho Chi Minh declaring independence at Ba Dinh Square, Hanoi, Vietnam on 2 September 1945

Above: A copy of the original proclamation of Independence of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam

Above: Telegram from Hồ Chí Minh to US President Harry S. Truman requesting support for independence (Hanoi, 28 February 1946)

The Potsdam Agreement, which marked the end of World War Two, failed to recognize the new Republic of Vietnam.

Above: The Big Three of the Potsdam Agreement, 1 August 1945

Left to right: British Prime Minister Clement Attlee (1945 – 1951), US President Harry S. Truman (1884 – 1972) and Soviet leader Joseph Stalin (1878 – 1953)

Instead, Japanese troops south of the 16th Parallel were to surrender to British authority, while those in the north would defer to the Chinese Kuomintang.

Above: Emblem of the Kuomintang (Chinese Nationalist Party)

Nevertheless, by the time these forces arrived, the Viet Minh were already in control, having relieved the Japanese of most of their weapons.

In the south, rival nationalist groups were battling it out in Saigon, where French troops had also joined in the fray.

Above: A Japanese naval warrant officer surrenders his sword to British Sub Lieutenant Anthony Martin in a ceremony in Saigon, 13 September 1945

The situation was so chaotic that the British commander proclaimed martial law and, amazingly, even deployed Japanese soldiers to help restore calm.

Against orders, he also rearmed the 6,000 liberated French troops.

Above: British General Gracey Douglas David (1894 – 1964)

Saigon was soon back in French hands.

A few days later, General Leclerc arrived with the first units of the French Expeditionary Force, charged with reimposing colonial rule in Indochina.

Above: General Philippe François Marie Leclerc de Hauteclocque (1902 – 1947)

Things were going more smoothly in the north, though the 200,000 Chinese soldiers stationed there acted increasingly like an army of occupation.

The Viet Minh could muster a mere 5,000 ill-equipped troops in reply.

Forced to choose between the two to survive, Ho Chi Minh finally rated French rule the lesser of the two evils, reputedly commentating:

I prefer to smell French s–t for five years rather than Chinese s–t for the rest of my life.”

In March 1946, Ho’s government signed a treaty allowing a limited French force to replace Kuomintang soldiers in the north.

In return, France recognized the Democratic Republic as a “free state” within the proposed French Union.

The terms were left deliberately vague.

The treaty provided for a referendum to determine whether Cochinchina would join the new state or remain separate.

Above: Võ Nguyên Giáp (left) with Hồ Chí Minh (right) in Hanoi in 1945

While further negotiations dragged on during the summer of 1946, both sides were busily rearming as it became apparent that the French were not going to abide by the treaty.

By late April, the Expeditionary Force had already exceeded agreed levels.

There was no sign of the promised referendum.

In September 1946, the talks effectively broke down.

Skirmishes between Vietnamese and French troops in the northern delta boiled over in a dispute over customs control in Haiphong.

Above: Haiphong, Vietnam

From 1954 to 1975, Haiphong served as the most important maritime city of North Vietnam.

On the morning of 20 November 1946, a French patrol ship seized a Chinese junk attempting to bring contraband into Haiphong.

While seemingly routine, the seizure of the ship was the beginning of a chain of unfortunate events.

Above: Chinese junks

Vietnamese soldiers reacted to the seizure by firing on the French ship from the shore, killing 23 soldiers.

Armed clashes immediately broke out on land between French and Vietnamese nationalists, with a French burial party being ambushed, losing six more men.

The French immediately worked to dissipate the conflict and stopped the outbreak by agreeing to respect Vietnamese sovereignty in Haiphong on 22 November 1946.

This, however, was only the beginning of the incident.

Once the news of the skirmish came to Admiral d’Argenlieu in Paris, he sent a cable to Jean Étienne Valluy, commander of French forces in Indochina, ordering him to use force against the Vietnamese in Haiphong.

Above: Georges Thierry d’Argenlieu (1889 – 1964)

Valluy, in turn, sent an order to Colonel Debès, commander of the French troops at Haiphong, stating:

It appears clear that we are up against premeditated aggressions carefully staged by the Vietnamese regular army.

The moment has come to give a severe lesson to those who have treacherously attacked you.

Use all the means at your disposal to make yourself complete master of Haiphong.

Above: Jean Étienne Valluy (1899 – 1970)

Debès then issued an ultimatum to the Vietnamese in Haiphong demanding a withdrawal from the French section and Chinese sections of the city, including the port. 

In the order, Debès invoked the Franco-Chinese agreement of 28 February 1946 as justification for demanding the Vietnamese evacuation of parts of the city.

Debès argued that the treaty gave France protective rights over the Chinese in Vietnam and thus gave them jurisdiction to engage in combat.

After the Vietnamese failed to evacuate in time, the French began a bombardment of the Vietnamese sections of the city, using three French avisos (dispatch boats):

  • Chevreuil (a Chamois class minesweeping sloop) 

Above: A Chamois class minesweeping sloop

  • Savorgnan de Brazza, sloop

Above: The Savorgnan de Brazza

  • dispatch ship Dumont d’Urville

Above: The Dumont d’Urville

The role of the heavy cruiser Suffren in the bombardment is controversial, as some versions of events suggest the ship participated in the shelling and others claim it arrived after the action had already been carried out.

Above: The Suffren

By 28 November 1946, Colonel Debès had taken complete control over the town.

While reports about the total number of casualties from the bombardment range widely from upwards of 20,000 to less than 100.

Today it is widely agreed that the number of casualties is very close to 6,000 as reported by the French sociologist Paul Mus.

Above: Paul Mus (1902 – 1969)

In return, French forces lost 20 to 29 men killed in Hai Phong from 20 to 23 November.

To quell the rioting, the French navy bombed the town on 25 November, killing thousands of civilians.

This was followed by the announcement that French troops would assume responsibility for law and order in the north.

By way of reply, Viet Minh units attacked French installations in Hanoi on 19 December.

Then, while resistance forces held the capital for a few days, Ho Chi Minh and the regular army slipped away into the northern mountains.

Above: Main entrance of the Temple of Literature in Hanoi, Vietnam

For the first years of the war against the French (also known as the First Indochina War or the Franco-Viet Minh War) the Viet Minh kept largely to their mountain bases in northern and central Vietnam.

While the Viet Minh were building up and training an army, the Expeditionary Force was consolidating its control over the Red River Delta and establishing a string of highly vulnerable outposts around guerrilla-held territory.

In October 1947 the French attempted an ambitious all-out attack against enemy headquarters, but it soon became obvious that this was the an unconventional “war without fronts” where Viet Minh troops could simply melt away into the jungle when threatened.

In addition, the French suffered from hit-and-run attacks deep within the Delta, unprotected by a local population who either actively supported or at least tolerated the Viet Minh.

Above: Emblem of the French Union (1946 – 1958)

Although the French persuaded Bao Dai to return as head of the Associated State of Vietnam in March 1949, most Vietnamese regarded him as a mere puppet.

His government won little support.

Above: Flag of the State of Vietnam (1949 – 1955), later South Vietnam (1955 – 1975)

The War entered a new phase after the Communist victory in China in 1949.

Above: Chairman of the Chinese Communist Party Mao Zedong (1893 – 1976)

America was drawn in and funded the French military to the tune of at least $3 billion by 1954.

The Viet Minh, under the command of General Giap, recorded their first major victory, forcing the French to abandon their outposts along the Chinese border and gaining unhindered access to sanctuary to China.

Early in 1951, equipped with Chinese weapons and confident of success, the Viet Minh launched an assault on Hanoi itself, but in this first pitched battle of the War, suffered a massive defeat, losing over 6,000 in a battle that saw napalm deployed for the first time in Vietnam.

But Giap had learnt his lesson.

For the next two years, the French sought in vain to repeat their success.

Above: Võ Nguyên Giáp and Phạm Văn Đồng, Hanoi, 1945

By now, France was tiring of the War and in 1953 made contact with Ho Chi Minh to find some way of resolving the conflict.

The Americans were growing increasingly impatient with French progress.

The Russians and the Chinese were also applying pressure to end the fighting.

Eventually, the two sides agreed to discussions at the Geneva Conference, due to take place in May the next year to discuss Korean peace.

Meanwhile in Vietnam, a crucial battle was unfolding in an isolated valley on the Lao border, near the town of Dien Bien Phu.

Above: Dien Bien Phu, Dien Bien Province, Vietnam

Early in 1954, French battalions established a massive camp here, deliberately trying to tempt the enemy into the open.

Instead the Viet Minh surrounded the Valley, cut off reinforcements and slowly closed in.

After 59 days of bitter fighting, the French were forced to surrender on 7 May 1954, the eve of the Geneva Conference.

Above: Battle of Dien Bien Phu (13 March – 7 May 1954) – Viet Minh troops plant their flag over the captured French headquarters

The eight years of war proved costly to both sides:

Total losses on the French side stood at 93,000, while an estimated 200,000 Viet Minh soldiers had been killed.

Above: The Geneva Conference, Geneva, Switzerland, 1954

On 8 May, a day after the French capitulation at Dien Bien Phu, the nine delegations attending the Geneva Conference trained their focus upon Indochina:

Hampered by distrust, the Conference succeeded only in reaching a necessarily ambiguous compromise which, however, allowed the French to withdraw with some honour and recognized Vietnamese sovereignty at least in part.

Keen to have a weak and fractured nation on their southern border, the Chinese delegation spurred the Viet Minh into agreeing to a division of the country.

Reliant on Chinese arms, the Viet Minh were forced to comply.

Under the terms of the 1954 Geneva Accords, Vietnam was split in two, along the 17th Parallel, pending elections to be held by July 1956 intended to reunite the country.

The Demarcation Line ran along the Ben Hai River and was sealed by a strip of no man’s land 5 km wide on each side known as the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ).

France and the Viet Minh, who were still fighting in the central highlands even as delegates machinated, agreed to an immediate ceasefire and consented to a withdrawal of all troops to their respective territories – Communists to the north, non-Communists plus supporters of the French to the south.

China, the USSR, Britain, France and the Viet Minh agreed on the Accords, but crucially neither the US nor Bao Dai’s government endorsed them, fearing that they heralded a reunited Communist-ruled Vietnam.

In the long term, the Geneva Accords served to cause a deep polarization within the country and to widen the conflict into an ideological battle between the superpowers, fought out on Vietnamese soil.

The immediate consequence, however, was a massive exodus from the north during the stipulated 300-day period of “free movement“.

Almost a million (mostly Catholic) refugees headed south, their flight aided by the US, and to some extent engineered by the CIA, whose distribution of scaremongering, anti-Communist leaflets was designed to create a base of support for the puppet government it was concocting in Saigon.

Above: Vietnamese refugees board LST 516 for their journey from Haiphong, North Vietnam, to Saigon, South Vietnam during Operation Passage to Freedom, October 1954.

This operation evacuated thousands of Vietnamese refugees from the then newly created Communist North Vietnam to the Democratic South Vietnam.

By the end of the operation, the Navy had carried to freedom more than 293,000 immigrants, vehicles, and other cargo.

Above: Propaganda poster exhorting Northern Vietnamese to move South during Operation Passage to Freedom:

The text reads “Move to the South to avoid Communism” and “The southern compatriots welcome their northern compatriots with open arms.”

Approaching 100,000 anti-French guerillas and sympathizers moved in the opposite direction to regroup, though, as a precautionary measure, between five and ten thousand Viet Minh cadres remained in the south, awaiting orders from Hanoi.

These dormant operatives, known to the CIA as “stay-behinds” and to the Communists as “winter cadres“, were joined by spies who infiltrated the Catholic move south.

In line with the terms of the ceasefire, Ho Chi Minh’s army marched into Hanoi on 9 October 1954, even as the last French forces were still trooping out.

Above: Hanoi Liberation Day, 9 October 1954

The Geneva Accords were still being thrashed out as Emperor Bao Dai named himself President and Ngo Dinh Diem Prime Minister of South Vietnam on 7 July.

A Catholic, and vehemently anti-Communist, Diem knew that Ho Chi Minh would would win the lion’s share of votes in the proposed elections and therefore steadfastly refused to countenance them.

His mandate “strengthened” by an October 1955 referendum.

The Prime Minister’s garnering of 98.2% of votes cast was more indicative of the blatancy of his vote-rigging than of any popular support.

Diem promptly ousted Bao Dai from the chain of command.

He declared himself President of the Republic of Vietnam.

Above: Ngo Dinh Diem (1901 – 1963)

Diem’s heavy-handed approach on Viet Minh dissidents still in the South was hopelessly misguided:

Although the subsequent witch hunt decimated Viet Minh numbers, the brutal and indiscriminate nature of the operation caused widespread discontent:

All dissenters were targeted – Viet Minh, Communist, or otherwise.

As the supposed “free world democracy” of the South mutated into a police state, over 50,000 citizens died in Diem’s pogrom.

Above: Presidential Standard of South Vietnam (1955 – 1963)

In Hanoi, meanwhile, Ho Chi Minh’s government was finding it had problems of its own, as aided by droves of Chinese advisers, it set about constructing a socialist society.

Years of warring with France had profoundly damaged the country’s infrastructure.

Now it found itself deprived of the South’s plentiful rice stocks.

Worse still, the land reforms of the mid-1950s, vaunted as a Robin Hood-style redistribution of land, saw thousands of innocents “tried” as landlords by ad hoc People’s Agricultural Reform Tribunals, tortured and then executed or set to work in labour camps.

Reactionaries” were also denounced and punished, often for such imperialist “crimes” as possessing works of the great French poets and novelists.

The Rectification of Errors Campaign of 1956 at least released many victims of the reforms from imprisonment, but as Ho Chi Minh himself said:

One cannot wake the dead.

Between 1953 and 1956, the North Vietnamese government instituted various agrarian reforms, including “rent reduction” and “land reform“, which resulted in significant political oppression.

During the land reform, testimony from North Vietnamese witnesses suggested a ratio of one execution for every 160 village residents, which extrapolated nationwide would indicate nearly 100,000 executions.

Because the campaign was concentrated mainly in the Red River Delta area, a lower estimate of 50,000 executions became widely accepted by scholars at the time.

However, declassified documents from the Vietnamese and Hungarian archives indicate that the number of executions was much lower than reported at the time, although likely greater than 13,500.

Above: Flag of Hungary

A Northern democratic literary movement called Nhân vân-Giai phâm (from the names of the two magazines which started the movement, based in Hanoi) developed, which attempted to encourage the democratization of the North and the free expression of thought.

Intellectuals were thus lured into criticizing the leadership so they could be arrested later.

Many were sent to hard labor camps (Gulags), following the model of Mao Tse-tung’s Hundred Flowers campaign in China.

Above: National Emblem of the People’s Republic of China

Freedom of speech, freedom of assembly and other basic civilian freedoms were soon revoked after the government’s attempt of destroying the literary movement.

A puritan personality cult was also established around Ho Chi Minh, later extended nationwide after the Communist reunification of the Vietnam.

Above: Ho Chi Minh pictured with children

With Hanoi so preoccupied with getting its own house in order, Viet Minh guerrillas south of the 17th Parallel were for several years left to fend for themselves.

For the most part, they sat tight in the face of Diem’s reprisals, although guerrilla strikes became increasingly common towards the end of the 1950s, often taking the form of assassinations of government officials.

Only in 1959 did the erosion of their ranks prompt Hanoi to shift up a gear and endorse a more overtly military stance.

Conscription was introduced in April 1960, cadres and hardware began to creep down the Ho Chi Minh Trail.

At the end of the year, Hanoi orchestrated the creation of the National Liberation Front (NLF), which drew together all opposition forces in the South.

Diem dubbed its guerrilla fighters Viet Cong (VC / Vietnamese Communists) – a name which stuck, though in reality the NLF represented a united front of Catholic, Buddhist, Communist and non-Communist nationalists.

Above: Flag of the National Liberation Front (NLF) / Viet Cong

American dollars had been supporting the French war effort in Indochina since 1950.

In early 1955, the White House began to bankroll Diem’s government and the training of his army, the ARVN (Army of the Republic of Vietnam).

Above: Flag of the Army of the Republic of (South) Vietnam (ARVN)

Behind these policies lay the fear of the chain reaction that could follow in Southeast Asia, were South Vietnam to be overrun by Communism – the Domino Effect.

More cynically, what this would mean for the US access to raw materials, trade routes and markets.

Though US President John F. Kennedy baulked at the prospect of large scale intervention, by the summer of 1962 there were 12,000 American advisers in South Vietnam.

Above: John Fitzgerald Kennedy (1917 – 1963) (US President: 1961 – 1963)

Despite all these injunctions of money, Diem’s incompetent and unpopular government was losing ground to the Viet Cong in the battle for the hearts and minds of the population.

Particularly damaging to the government was its Strategic Hamlets Programme.

Formulated in 1962 and based on British methods used during the Malayan Emergency, the Programme forcibly relocated entire villages into fortified stockades, with the aim of keeping the Viet Cong at bay.

Ill-concerned, insensitive and open to exploitation by corrupt officials, the Programme had the opposite effect, driving many disgruntled villagers into the arms of the resistance.

Above: South Vietnamese “Strategic Hamlet

Militarily, things were little better.

If America needed proof that Diem’s government was struggling to subdue the guerrillas, it came in January 1963, at the Battle of Ap Bac, where incompetent ARVN soldiers in Hué suffered heavy losses against a greatly outnumbered Viet Cong force.

Above: Stamp commemorating the Battle of Ấp Bắc, 2 January 1963

In a country where surveys of the religious composition at the time estimated the Buddhist majority to be 90%, President Diêm was a member of the Catholic minority, and pursued discriminatory policies favoring Catholics for public service and military promotions, as well as in the allocation of land, business arrangements and tax concessions. 

Diệm once told a high-ranking officer, forgetting that the officer was from a Buddhist family:

Put your Catholic officers in sensitive places.

They can be trusted.

Many officers in the Army of the Republic of Vietnam (ARVN) converted to Roman Catholicism as their military prospects depended on it.

Additionally, the distribution of firearms to village self-defense militias saw weapons given only to Roman Catholics, with some Buddhists in the army being denied promotion if they refused to convert to Roman Catholicism.

Some Catholic priests ran their own private armies.

There were forced conversions, looting, shelling, and demolition of pagodas in some areas, to which the government turned a blind eye.

Some Buddhist villages converted en masse to receive aid or avoid being forcibly resettled by Diệm’s regime.

The “private” status that was imposed on Buddhism by the French, which required official permission to be obtained by those wishing to conduct public Buddhist activities, was not repealed by Diệm.

Catholics were also de facto exempt from corvée (indentured) labour, which the government obliged all citizens to perform.

US aid was distributed disproportionately to Catholic majority villages by Diệm’s regime.

The Catholic Church was the largest landowner in the country and enjoyed special exemptions in property acquisition, and land owned by the Catholic Church was exempt from land reform. 

The white and gold Vatican flag was regularly flown at all major public events in South Vietnam.

Above: Flag of the Vatican City

Diệm dedicated his country to the Virgin Mary in 1959.

Above: The Madonna in Sorrow, Giovanni Battista Salvi da Sassoferrato

Buddhist discontent erupted following a ban in early May on flying the Buddhist flag in Hué on Vesak, the birthday of Gautama Buddha.

Just days before, Catholics had been encouraged to fly the Vatican flag at a celebration for Archbishop Ngô Dinh Thuc of Huế, Diệm’s elder brother.

Above: Flag of Buddhism

Above: Pierre Martin Ngô Đình Thục (1897 – 1984)

A large crowd of Buddhists protested the ban, defying the government by flying Buddhist flags on the Buddhist holy day of Vesak and marching on the government broadcasting station.

Above: Vesak Day celebrations

Government forces fired into the crowd of protesters, killing nine people.

Diệm’s refusal to take responsibility — he blamed the Viet Cong for the deaths — led to further Buddhist protests and calls for religious equality.

As Diem remained unwilling to comply with Buddhist demands, the frequency of protests increased.

Above: Monument to the Huế Phật Đản shootings, 8 May 1963

Above: Memorial to the Buddhists killed in the demonstrations during the Phat Dan of 1963 in Hue, Vietnam

On 10 June 1963, US correspondents were informed that “something important” would happen the following morning on the road outside the Cambodian embassy in Saigon.

Most of the reporters disregarded the message, since the Buddhist crisis had at that point been going on for more than a month.

(The Buddhist crisis (Biến cố Phật giáo) was a period of political and religious tension in South Vietnam between May and November 1963, characterized by a series of repressive acts by the South Vietnamese government and a campaign of civil resistance, led mainly by Buddhist monks.)

The next day only a few journalists turned up, including David Halberstam of the New York Times and Malcolm Browne, the Saigon bureau chief for the Associated Press (AP).

Above: Malcolm Browne (1931 – 2012)

Quảng Đức arrived as part of a procession that had begun at a nearby pagoda.

Around 350 monks and nuns marched in two phalanxes, preceded by an Austin Westminster sedan, carrying banners printed in both English and Vietnamese.

They denounced the Diệm government and its policy towards Buddhists, demanding that it fulfill its promises of religious equality.

Another monk offered himself, but Quảng Đức’s seniority prevailed.

Above: The car in which Quảng Đức travelled to his self-immolation

The act occurred at the intersection of Phan Đình Phùng Boulevard (now Nguyễn Đình Chiểu Street) and Lê Văn Duyệt Street (now Cách Mạng Tháng Tám Street), a few blocks southwest of the Presidential Palace (now the Reunification Palace).

Above: Independence Palace (Reunification Palace), Hoi Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

Above: A memorial to Quảng Đức located on the site of his death, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

Quảng Đức emerged from the car along with two other monks.

One placed a cushion on the road while the second opened the trunk and took out a five-gallon petrol can.

As the marchers formed a circle around him, Quảng Đức calmly sat down in the traditional Buddhist meditative lotus position on the cushion.

A colleague emptied the contents of the petrol container over Quảng Đức’s head.

Quảng Đức rotated a string of wooden prayer beads and recited the “Homage to Amitabha Buddha” before striking a match and dropping it on himself.

Flames consumed his robes and flesh, and black oily smoke emanated from his burning body.

Quảng Đức’s last words before his self-immolation were documented in a letter he had left:

Before closing my eyes and moving towards the vision of the Buddha, I respectfully plead to President Ngô Đình Diệm to take a mind of compassion towards the people of the nation and implement religious equality to maintain the strength of the homeland eternally.

I call the venerables, reverends, members of the sangha (community) and the lay Buddhists to organize in solidarity to make sacrifices to protect Buddhism.

Above: Thích Quảng Đức (1897 – 1963) (né Lâm Văn Túc)

David Halberstam wrote:

I was to see that sight again, but once was enough.

Flames were coming from a human being; his body was slowly withering and shriveling up, his head blackening and charring.

In the air was the smell of burning human flesh.

Human beings burn surprisingly quickly.

Behind me I could hear the sobbing of the Vietnamese who were now gathering.

I was too shocked to cry, too confused to take notes or ask questions, too bewildered to even think.

As he burned he never moved a muscle, never uttered a sound, his outward composure in sharp contrast to the wailing people around him.

Above: David Halberstam (1934 – 2007)

The spectators were mostly stunned into silence, but some wailed and several began praying.

Many of the monks and nuns, as well as some shocked passersby, prostrated themselves before the burning monk.

Even some of the policemen, who had orders to control the gathered crowd, prostrated before him.

In English and Vietnamese, a monk repeated into a microphone:

A Buddhist priest burns himself to death.

A Buddhist priest becomes a martyr.

After approximately 10 minutes, Quảng Đức’s body was fully immolated and it eventually toppled backwards onto its back.

Once the fire subsided, a group of monks covered the smoking corpse with yellow robes, picked it up and tried to fit it into a coffin, but the limbs could not be straightened and one of the arms protruded from the wooden box as he was carried to the nearby Xá Lợi Pagoda in central Saigon.

Outside the pagoda, students unfurled bilingual banners which read:

A Buddhist priest burns himself for our five requests.”

By 1330 hours, around 1,000 monks had congregated inside to hold a meeting, while outside a large crowd of pro-Buddhist students had formed a human barrier around it.

The meeting soon ended and all but 100 monks slowly left the compound.

Nearly 1,000 monks, accompanied by lay people, returned to the cremation site.

The police lingered nearby. At around 1800 hours, thirty nuns and six monks were arrested for holding a prayer meeting on the street outside Xá Lợi.

The police encircled the pagoda, blocking public passage and giving observers the impression that an armed siege was imminent by donning riot gear.

Above: Buddhist monk Thich Quang Duc burning himself to death in Saigon in protest of persecution of Buddhists by the South Vietnam government.

This photograph won the World Press Photo of the Year for 1963. 

US President John F. Kennedy said that:

No news picture in history has generated so much emotion around the world as that one.

In response to Buddhist self-immolation as a form of protest, Madame Nhu — the de facto First Lady of South Vietnam at the time (and the wife of Ngô Dinh Nhu, who was the brother and chief advisor to Diệm) — said:

“Let them burn and we shall clap our hands.”

If the Buddhists wish to have another barbecue, I will be glad to supply the gasoline and a match.”

Above: Madame Nhu (1924 – 2011)

After the self-immolation, the US put more pressure on Diệm to re-open negotiations on the faltering agreement.

Diệm had scheduled an emergency cabinet meeting at 11:30 on 11 June to discuss the Buddhist crisis which he believed to be winding down.

Following Quảng Đức’s death, Diệm cancelled the meeting and met individually with his ministers.

Acting US Ambassador to South Vietnam William Trueheart warned Nguyen Dinh Thuân, Diệm’s Secretary of State, of the desperate need for an agreement, saying that the situation was “dangerously near breaking point” and expected Diệm would meet the Buddhists’ five-point manifesto. 

Trueheart recommended that the Interministerial Committee accept the Buddhist’s position in a “spirit of amity” and then clarify the details at a later point.

During the negotiations, Thích Tịnh Khiết issued a nationwide plea to urge Buddhists to avoid any actions that could endanger the talks while Diệm ordered government officials to remove all barriers around the temples.

Above:

Sitting room in the Vietnamese Presidential Palace. Seated men are identified as (l to r) Thanh, Fowler Hamilton, Khanh, President Ngo Dinh Diem, William C. Trueheart, Arthur Z. Gardiner, and Koren – 16 January 1962

US Secretary of State Dean Rusk warned the Saigon embassy that the White House would publicly announce that it would no longer “associate itself” with the regime if this did not occur.

The Joint Communiqué and concessions to the Buddhists were signed on 16 June.

Above: Dean Rusk (1909 – 1994) (US Secretary of State: 1961 – 1969)

15 June was set as the date for the funeral.

On that day 4,000 people gathered outside the Xá Lợi Pagoda, only for the ceremony to be postponed.

Above: Xa Loi pagoda bell tower, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

On 19 June, his remains were carried out of Xá Lợi to a cemetery 16 kilometers (9.9 mi) south of the city for a re-cremation and funeral ceremony.

The body was re-cremated during the funeral, but Quảng Đức’s heart remained intact and did not burn.

It was considered to be holy and placed in a glass chalice at Xá Loi Pagoda.

The intact heart relic is regarded as a symbol of compassion.

Above: The heart relic of Quảng Đức

Quảng Đức has subsequently been revered by Vietnamese Buddhists as a bodhisattva (Bồ Tát), and accordingly is often referred to in Vietnamese as Bồ Tát Thích Quảng Đức.

Above: The gilded statue of Gautama Buddha dominates the shrine of Xa Loi Pagoda, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

On 21 August, the ARVN Special Forces of Nhu attacked Xá Lợi and other Buddhist pagodas across Vietnam.

The secret police intended to confiscate Quảng Đức’s ashes, but two monks had escaped with the urn, jumping over the back fence and finding safety at the U.S. Operations Mission next door.

Nhu’s men managed to confiscate Đức’s charred heart.

The location chosen for the self-immolation, in front of the Cambodian Embassy, raised questions as to whether it was coincidence or a symbolic choice.

Above: Logo of the Army of the Republic of Vietnam Special Forces

Trueheart and embassy official Charles Flowerree felt that the location was selected to show solidarity with the Cambodian government of Prince Norodom Sihanouk.

South Vietnam and Cambodia had strained relations:

In a speech on 22 May, Sihanouk had accused Diệm of mistreating Vietnamese and ethnic minority Khmer Buddhists.

Above: Norodom Sihanouk (1922 – 2012) (King of Cambodia: 1941 – 1955 / 1993 – 2004)

The pro-Diệm Times of Vietnam published an article on 9 June which claimed that Cambodian monks had been encouraging the Buddhist crisis, asserting it was part of a Cambodian plot to extend its neutralist foreign policy into South Vietnam.

Flowerree noted that Diệm was “ready and eager to see a fine Cambodian hand in all the organized Buddhist actions“.

Buddhist leader Thich Tri Quang, who had travelled throughout the country protesting against religious inequality and the flag ban, began rallying Buddhists in central Vietnam.

He called them to attend a public mass funeral for the Huế victims scheduled for 10 May. 

As a result, Buddhist protests were held across the country and steadily grew in size, asking for the signing of a Joint Communique to end religious inequality.

The pagodas were major organizing points for the Buddhist movement and often the location of hunger strikes, barricades and protests.

Thích Trí Quang proclaimed a five-point “manifesto of the monks” that demanded:

  • freedom to fly the Buddhist flag
  • religious equality between Buddhists and Catholics
  • compensation for the victims’ families
  • an end to arbitrary arrests
  • punishment for the officials responsible

Above: Thích Trí Quang (1924 – 2019)

Diệm agreed to meet with a Buddhist delegation, but increased tension further by demeaning them.

Initially, Diệm refused to pay compensation, believing it was a sign of weakness.

He claimed there was no discrimination in South Vietnam and that all religions had been treated equally with respect to the flag issue.

In regard to the classification of Buddhism as an “association” under Decree 10, Diệm claimed it was an “administrative oversight” that would be fixed (although no action was taken on the matter during his final six months of office).

Diệm labelled the Buddhists “damn fools” for demanding something that according to him, they already enjoyed.

The government press release detailing the meeting also used the expression “damn fools“.

Above: Ngô Đình Diệm

Following the signing of the Joint Communiqué, attendance was limited by agreement between Buddhist leaders and police to approximately 500 monks.

The Joint Communiqué was presented to the press on 16 June.

Thích Tịnh Khiết thanked Diệm and exhorted the Buddhist community to work with the government.

He expressed his “conviction that the Joint Communiqué will inaugurate a new era and that no erroneous action from whatever quarter will occur again.”

He declared that the protest movement was over, and called on Buddhists to return to their normal lives and pray for the success of the agreement.

However, some younger monks were disappointed with the result of the negotiations feeling that Diem’s regime had not been made accountable.

Trueheart was skeptical about its implementation, privately reporting that if Diệm did not follow through, the US should look for alternative leadership options.

The troubles had become a public relations issue for Diem beyond his country, with speculation about a US-Diệm rift being discussed in American newspapers following the self-immolation. 

Above: Ngô Đình Diệm

The New York Times ran a front page headline on 14 June, citing leaked government information that diplomats had privately attacked Diem.

It also reported that General Paul Harkins, the head of the US advisory mission in South Vietnam, ordered his men not to assist ARVN units that were taking action against demonstrators.

Above: Paul D. Harkins (1904 – 1984)

The US at the time considered telling Vice President Tho that they would support him replacing Diem as President.

Above: Nguyễn Hữu Thọ (1910 – 1996) (Vice President of Vietnam: 1981 – 1992)

This occurred at the same time as the surfacing of rumours that Republic of Vietnam Air Force Chief of Staff Lieutenant Colonel Đỗ Khắc Mai had begun gauging support among his colleagues for a coup.

Above: Do Khac Mai

The agreement was put in doubt by an incident outside Xá Loi Pagoda the following day.

A crowd of around 2,000 people were confronted by police who persisted in ringing the pagoda despite the agreement.

A riot eventually broke out and police attacked the crowd with tear gas, fire hoses, clubs and gunfire.

One protester was killed and scores more injured.

Moderates from both sides urged calm while some government officials blamed “extremist elements“.

An AP story described the riot as “the most violent anti-Government outburst in South Vietnam in years“.

Furthermore, many protesters remained in jail contrary to the terms of the Joint Communique.

Above: Crowds in front of Xa Loi Pagoda in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

The crisis deepened as more Buddhists began calling for a change of government and younger monks such as Thích Trí Quang came to the forefront, blaming Diệm for the ongoing impasse.

Due to the failure of the agreement to produce the desired results, older and more senior monks, who were more moderate, saw their prestige diminished, and the younger, more assertive monks began to take on a more prominent role in Buddhist politics.

Thich Tinh Khiet sent Diệm a letter after the funeral of Thích Quảng Đức, noting the government was not observing the agreement and that the condition of Buddhists in South Vietnam had deteriorated.

Tho denied the allegation.

Above: Thich Tinh Khiet (1891 – 1973)

Ngô Đình Nhu told a reporter:

If anyone is oppressed in this affair, it is the government which has been constantly attacked and whose mouth has been shut with Scotch tape.”

He criticized the agreements through his Republican Youth organization, calling on the population to “resist the indirections of superstition and fanaticism” and warned against “communists who may abuse the Joint Communique“.

At the same time, Nhu issued a secret memorandum to the Republican Youth, calling on them to lobby the government to reject the agreement, and calling the Buddhists “rebels” and “Communists“.

Nhu continued to disparage the Buddhists through his English-language mouthpiece, the Times of Vietnam, whose editorial bent was usually taken to be the Ngô family’s own personal opinions.

Above: Vietnamese activist Ngo Dink Nhu (1910 – 1963)

A US State Department report concluded that the religious disquiet was not fomented by Communist elements. 

In the meantime, the government had quietly informed local officials that the agreements were a “tactical retreat” to buy time before decisive putting down the Buddhist movement.

Diệm’s regime stalled on implementing the release of Buddhists who had been imprisoned for protesting against it.

This led to a discussion within the US government to push for the removal of the Nhus, who were regarded as the extremist influence over Diệm, from power.

The Buddhists were becoming increasingly skeptical of government intentions.

They had received information that suggested that the agreement was just a governmental tactic to buy time and wait for the popular anger to die down, before Diệm would arrest the leading Buddhist monks.

They began to step up the production of critical pamphlets and began translating articles critical of Diệm in the Western media to distribute to the public.

As promises continued to fail to materialise, the demonstrations at Xá Lợi and elsewhere continued to grow.

Diem’s heavy-handed responses at Xa Loi – some 400 monks and nuns were arrested and others cast from the top of a tower – led to mass popular demonstrations against the government.

Diem, it was clear, had become a liability.

Above: Ngo Dinh Diem

Fearing that the Communists would gain further by Diem’s unpopularity, America tacitly sanctioned his ousting in a coup on 1 November 1963.

Diem escaped with his brother Ngo Dinh Nhu to Saigon’s Chinese ghetto of Cho Lon.

Above: Cho Lon, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

In the early morning of 2 November, Diem phoned the leaders of the coup and surrendered.

They had taken refuge inside Cho Lon’s unprepossessing little Cha Tam Church, with its Oriental outer gate and cheery yellow walls.

An M-113 armoured car duly picked them up, but they were shot dead by ARVN soldiers before the vehicle reached central Saigon.

Diệm was buried in an unmarked grave in a cemetery next to the house of the US Ambassador.

Above: The undignified death of Ngo Dinh Diem

With clearance from the church janitor, visitors can clamber up into the belfry and under the bells, Quasimodo-style, to stand beside the statue of St. Francis Xavier for the fine views the janitor enjoys of Cho Lon.

He can also point out the pew where Diem and Ngo sat praying as they awaited their fate.

Above: Cha Tam / St. Francis Xavier Catholic Church, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

The capital staggered from coup to coup, but corruption, nepotism and dependence upon American support remained constant.

Above: Official seal of Saigon / Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

In the countryside, meanwhile, the Viet Cong were forging a solid base of popular support.

Observing Southern instability, Hanoi in early 1964 proceeded to send battalions of NVA (North Vietnamese Army) infantrymen down the Ho Chi Minh Trail, with 10,000 Northern troops hitting the Trail in the first year.

Above: Transporting goods on the Ho Chi Minh Trail from North Vietnam to South Vietnam

For America, unwilling to see the Communists granted a say in the running of the South, yet unable to envisage Saigon’s generals fending them off, the only option seemed to be to “Americanize” the conflict.

In August 1964, a chance came to do just that, when the American destroyer USS Maddox allegedly suffered an unprovoked attack from North Vietnamese craft.

Two days afterwards, the Maddox and another ship, the C Turner Joy, reported a second attack.

Years later, it emerged that the Maddox had been taking part in a covert mission to monitor coastal installations.

The second incident almost certainly never reopened.

Nevertheless, reprisals followed in the form of 64 bombing sorties against Northern coastal bases.

Above: USS Maddox

Back in Washington, senators voted through the Tonkin Gulf Resolution, empowering Johnson to deploy regular American troops in Vietnam, “to prevent further aggression“.

Above: Lyndon Johnson (1908 – 1973) (US President: 1963 – 1969)

The Vietnam War, also called the Second Indochina War, though only officially acknowledged by the American government as a “military action” as the US never officially declared war on North Vietnam, known as the American War by the Vietnamese, was a Cold War era proxy war that occurred in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia from approximately 1 November 1955 to the fall of Saigon on 30 April 1975.

This war was fought between North Vietnam – supported by the Soviet Union, China and other Communist allies – and South Vietnam – supported by the United States and other anti-Communist allies.

The Viet Cong (also known as the National Liberation Front / NLF), a South Vietnamese Communist common front aided by the North, fought a guerrilla war against anti-Communist forces in the South.

The People’s Army of Vietnam (also known as the North Vietnamese Army) engaged in a more conventional war, at times committing large units to battle.

General George S. Patton IV asked the NVA captain to go aboard a chopper equipped with a loudspeaker and order his men to surrender.

The prisoner refused.

Patton said to him:

If you don’t go up in the chopper with me and ask them to surrender you have personally signed their death warrants, because I will be forced to obliterate this position.

The NVA captain again declined.

Patton’s frustration was evident.

He glowered at the man and said:

God damn it, who is winning this war?

You are.“, replied the captain.

Patton shouted:

Then in that case, why don’t we save the lives of your soldiers and let us take them out and feed them and medicate them?

The captain said:

Sir, you did not ask who would win this war.”

Well, who is going to win this war?“, Patton snorted.

The prisoner said forcefully:

We will, because you will tire of it before we do.

Above: George Patton IV (1923 – 2004)

The US intervention in Vietnam was not inevitable.

It evolved from the vacuum left by the collapse of Japan’s Asian empire, followed by the Communists’ victory in China, the Korean War stalemate and France’s defeat in 1954.

But it also grew out of the Cold War decisions of three US Presidents:

  • Truman’s to move away from Roosevelt’s anticolonialism

Above: Harry S. Truman (1884 – 1972) (US President: 1945 – 1953)

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945) (US President: 1933 – 1945)

  • Eisenhower’s to block the Vietnamese national elections in 1956 and prop up the Diem regime.

Above: Dwight D. Eisenhower (1890 – 1969) (US President: 1953 – 1961)

Kennedy’s to increase the number of US “military advisors“, Special Forces and CIA agents in South Vietnam.

Above: John F. Kennedy (1917 – 1963) (US President: 1961 – 1963)

All three intended to transform Vietnam into a “proving ground for democracy in Asia“.

Above: (in green) Location of Vietnam

All Communist troops and supporters were supposed to have regrouped north in the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, leaving the southern Republic of Vietnam to non-Communists and various shades of opposition.

When the elections failed to take place, the Ben Hai River became the de facto border until 1975.

In reality, both sides of the DMZ were anything but demilitarized after 1965.

Anyway the border was easily circumvented – by the Ho Chi Minh Trail to the west and sea routes to the east – enabling the North Vietnamese to bypass a string of American firebases overlooking the River.

One of the more fantastical efforts to prevent Communist infiltration southwards was the US Secretary of Defense Robert McNamara’s proposal for an electronic fence from the Vietnamese coast to the Mekong River made up of seismic and acoustic sensors that would detect troop movements and pinpoint targets for bombing raids.

Though trials made in 1967 met with some initial success, the McNamara Line was soon abandoned:

Sensors were confused by animals, especially elephants, and could be triggered deliberately by the tape-recorded sound of vehicle engines or troops on the march.

Above: Robert McNamara (1916 – 2009) (US Secretary of Defense: 1961 – 1968)

Above: Images of the McNamara Line

Nor could massive, conventional bombing by artillery and aircraft contain the North Vietnamese, who finally stormed the DMZ in 1972 and pushed the border 20 km further south.

Exceptionally bitter fighting in the territory south of the Ben Hai River (I Corps Military Region) claimed more American lives in the five years leading up to 1972 than any other battle zone in Vietnam.

Figures for North Korean losses during that period are not known, though thousands more have died since the end of the War from inadvertently detonating unexploded ordinance.

So much in firepower was unleashed over this area, including napalm and herbicides, that for years nothing would grow in the impacted chemical-laden soil, but the region’s low rolling hills are almost entirely reforested with a green sea of pine, eucalyptus, coffee and acacia.

During the Vietnam / American War, Quang Tri and Quang Binh, the two provinces either side of the DMZ, were the most heavily bombed and saw the highest casualties – civilian and military, American and Vietnamese.

Above: Looking across the Bến Hải River toward North Vietnam, March 1968

Names made infamous in 1960s and 1970s America have been perpetuated in countless films and memoirs:

  • Con Thien (27 February 1967 – 28 February 1969)

Above: Company E, 2/12 Marines 105mm firing in support of 1/1 Marines near Con Thien, 25 November 1967

  • the Rockpile (1966 – 1973)

Above: The Rockpile

  • Hamburger Hill (13 – 20 May 1969)

Above: US Army photographer and assistant climbing through the devastated landscape on Dong Ap Bia after the battle of Hamburger Hill

  • Khe Sanh (21 January – 9 July 1968)

Above: A burning fuel dump after a mortar attack at Khe Sanh

For some people the DMZ will be what draws them to Vietnam, the end of a long and difficult pilgrimage.

For others it will be a bleak, sometimes beautiful, place where there is nothing particular to see but where it is hard not to respond to the sense of enormous desolation.

North of the DMZ is one of the region’s main attractions – the Tunnels of Vinh Moc, where villages created deep underground during the American / Vietnam War have been preserved.

Above: Tunnels of Vinh Moc

South of the Hien Luong Bridge over Ben Hai River are Truong Son Cemetery and the firebases of Doc Mieu and Con Thien.

Above: Truong Son Cemetery

Above: At Doc Mieu Fire Base

Above: Con Thien Fire Base

The area’s other notable wartime locations lie west and south of Dong Ha, which is the closest town to the DMZ.

Above: Dong Ha, Quang Tri Province, Vietnam

While it is not possible to cover everything in one day, the most interesting of the places are included on organized tours from Dong Ha or Hué.

If you have limited time then the Vinh Moc Tunnels should be high on your list, along with a drive up Highway 9 to Khe Sanh, both for the scenery en route and the sobering battleground itself.

Above: Khe Sanh Victory Monument

Note that as most sites are unmarked and unremarkable to look at, a knowledgeable local guide is indispensable.

More importantly:

Guides know which paths are safe.

In the last decade, local farmers have still occasionally been killed or injured by unexploded ordinance in this area.

Although Vietnam was reunified in 1975, there still exists a palpable north-south divide, one that many tourists pick up on as they head across the DMZ.

Of course, many of the differences stem from the ideological division that followed World War II and the protracted bloody war between the two sides.

However, there have long been other factors at work.

One of these is the relative fertility of the soil – parts of the South get three rice harvests per year, while in the North it is usually one.

This leads to a difference in character between north and south – northerners are typically more frugal and southerners more laidback, partly because the latter have historically had less work to do for the same reward.

There are also notable differences in tradition.

Ho Chi Minh City flaunts its Westernization, while Hanoians are just as proud of their city’s colonial and dynastic eras’ structures.

Above: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Above: Hanoi, Vietnam

Then there are dialectical differences:

Ask a traditionally clad Hanoian girl what she is wearing and she will say it is “ao zai“.

Ask a woman from Ho Chi Minh City the same thing and it would be an “ao yai“.

Trained ears will also hear that there is another dialect at work in the centre of Vietnam.

However, for visitors, the most enjoyable aspect of the north – south divide is likely to be the food.

The quintessential northern food is pho bo – the beef noodle soup is found throughout Vietnam, but originated in Hanoi, where it is still at its best.

Other northern dishes include hotpots, rice gruels, sweet and sour soups.

Southern flavours include curries and spicy dipping sauces, often married with a touch of sugar and coconut milk to balance the heat.

However, most renowned nationwide is central cuisine – both Hoi An and Hué boast dishes of astonishing variety.

We dream of food.

We detect differences.

We ponder the past.

One cannot understand the Vietnam War without discovering the DMZ.

It has been a long road to the DMZ and what awaits beyond it.

Soon, we will explore it together….

(To be continued….)

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / The Rough Guide to Vietnam / William F. Brown, Our Vietnam Wars: As told by 100 veterans who served / Bob Greene, Homecoming: When the Soldiers Returned from Vietnam / Brian M. Sobel, The Fighting Pattons

Canada Slim: Out of Nowhere

Canada Slim and the Pickwickian Road to Mürren – Part One (The departure)

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 20 November 2022

I have a hobby.

I find myself drawn to investigating and visiting places with any sort of a literary connection.

Tell me someone wrote something somewhere and I begin to plan a visit there.

I find myself drawn of late to Charles Dickens’ The Pickwick Papers and damned if I am not already envisioning a journey to England to retrace the tale of the irrepressible Samuel Pickwick and his fellow Pickwickians as they travelled around the English countryside getting into all kinds of scrapes and adventures.

“The first ray of light which illumines the gloom and converts into a dazzling brilliancy that obscurity in which the earlier history of the public career of the immortal Pickwick would appear to be involved is derived from the perusal of the following entry in the Transactions of the Pickwick Club, which the editor of these papers feels the highest pleasure in laying before his readers, as a proof of the careful attention, indefatigable assiduity and nice discrimination with which his search among the multifarious documents confided to him has been conducted.

London, England, 12 May 1827

Joseph Smiggers, Esquire, Perpetual Vice-President – Member Pickwick Club (PVPMPC) presiding.

The following resolutions unanimously agreed to:

This Association cannot but entertain a lively sense of the inestimable benefits which must invariably result from carrying the speculations of that learned man (Pickwick) into a wider field, from extending his travels, and consequently enlarging his sphere of observation, to the advancement of knowledge and the diffusion of learning.

That Samuel Pickwick, Tracy Tupman, Augustus Snodgrass and Nathaniel Winkle are hereby nominated and appointed members of the Corresponding Society of the Pickwick Club and that they be requested to forward, from time to time, authenticated accounts of their journeys and investigations, of their observations of character and manners, and of the whole of their adventures, together with all tales and papers to which local scenery or associations may give rise to the Pickwick Club, stationed in London.

That this Association cordially recognizes the principle of every member of the Corresponding Society defraying his own travelling expenses, and that it sees no objection whatever to the members of the said Society pursuing their inquiries for any length of time they please, upon the same terms.”

“In this strain, with an occasional glass of ale, when the coach changed horses, until they reached Rochester Bridge, by which time the notebooks both of Pickwick and Snodgrass were completely filled with selections from his adventures.

Magnificent ruin!“, said Snodgrass, with all the poetic fervour that distinguished him, when they came in sight of the fine old castle.

What a study for an antiquarian!” were the very words which fell from Pickwick’s mouth as he applied his telescope to his eye.

Ah! Fine place, glorious pile, frowning walls, tottering arches, dark nooks, crumbling staircases.“, said the stranger.

Above: Rochester Castle, from across the Medway River, Kent, England

Old cathedral too, earthy smell, pilgrims’ feet worn away the old steps, little Saxon doors, confessionals like money-takers’ boxes at theatres.

Queer customers those monks, Popes and Lord Treasurers and all sorts of old fellows with great red faces and broken noses turning up every day, leather coats and guns.

Tombs, fine place, old legends too, strange stories, capital.“, said the stranger.”

Above: Rochester Cathedral, Kent, England

“We do not find, from a careful perusal of Pickwick’s notes on the four towns Strood, Rochester, Chatham and Brompton, that his impressions of their appearance differ in any material point from those of other travellers who have gone over the same ground.

His general description is easily abridged:

The principal production of these towns appear to be soldiers, sailors, Jews, chalk, shrimps, officers and dockyard men.

The commodities chiefly exposed for sale in the public streets are marine supplies, baked goods, apples, flatfish and oysters.

The streets present a lively and animated appearance, occasioned chiefly by the conviviality of the military.

It is truly delightful to the philanthropic mind to see these gallant men staggering along under the influence of an overflow, both of animal and ardent spirits.

More especially when we remember that the following them about and jesting with them affords a cheap and innocent amusement for the boy population.

Nothing can exceed their good humour.

It was but the day before my arrival that one of them had been most grossly insulted in a pub.

The barmaid had positively refused to draw him any more liquor.

In return for which he had (merely in playfulness) drawn his bayonet and wounded the girl in the shoulder.

And yet this fine fellow was the very first to go down to the pub next morning and express his readiness to overlook the matter and forget what had occurred.

The consumption of tobacco in these towns must be very great and the smell which pervades the streets must be exceedingly delicious to those who are extremely fond of smoking.

A superficial traveller might object to the dirt which is their leading characteristic, but to those who view it as an indication of traffic and commercial prosperity it is truly gratifying.

Above: High Street, Strood, Kent, England

Above: High Street, Rochester, Kent, England

Above: Chatham, Kent, England

Above: Prospect Row, Brompton, Kent, England

Thus we are introduced to Rochester, after an unpleasant confrontation with a coachman in London.

Above: Eastgate House, Rochester, Kent

My mind therefore leaps to the notion of finding in London Goswell Street where Pickwick is said to have resided and the coach stand in St. Martin’s le Grand and the Golden Cross where Pickwick met his travelling companions Tupman, Snodgrass and Winkle and where the quartet were assaulted by the paranoid cabby Sam.

Above: St. Martin’s Le Grand looking south, London, England, 1829

I find myself wondering how far it is to Rochester from London (30 miles/50 km), whether there are walking trails between London and Rochester (10.5 to 11 hours walking distance), and whether any discernible traces of the 19th century of Pickwick can still be seen by the 21st century traveller.

My walking is of two kinds: one, straight on end to a definite goal at a round pace; one, objectless, loitering, and purely vagabond.

In the latter state, no gipsy on Earth is a greater vagabond than myself.

It is so natural to me, and strong with me, that I think I must be the descendant, at no great distance, of some irreclaimable tramp.

So much of my travelling is done on foot, that if I cherished betting propensities, I should probably be found registered in sporting newspapers under some such title as the Elastic Novice, challenging all eleven stone mankind to competition in walking.

My last special feat was turning out of bed at two, after a hard day, pedestrian and otherwise, and walking thirty miles into the country to breakfast.

Charles Dickens, The Uncommercial Traveller

Charles Dickens was a prodigious walker.

Whether on his night walks through London, or tramping through the Kent countryside, Dickens clocked up a huge number of miles on foot.

He is estimated to have walked 12 miles per day.

Dickens maintained this in all kinds of weather.

Dickens understood his passion for walking to be prodigious.

Dickens mostly walked alone.

He did so because walking time was thinking time, or perhaps more accurately dreaming time.

Whether walking purposefully or in vagabond style, as he classifies his walking habits in The Uncommercial Traveller, Dickens proceeded in a reverie, acutely attuned to the significance of his surroundings.

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

G.K. Chesterton, in Charles Dickens: A Critical Study (1906), makes this remarkable judgment of the connection between Dickens’ writing and walking:

Herein is the whole secret of that eerie realism with which Dickens could always vitalize some dark or dull corner of London.

There are details in the Dickens descriptions — a window, or a railing, or the keyhole of a door — which he endows with demoniac life.

The things seem more actual than things really are.

Indeed, that degree of realism does not exist in reality:

It is the unbearable realism of a dream.

And this kind of realism can only be gained by walking dreamily in a place.

It cannot be gained by walking observantly.

It takes some sort of critical genius to understand Dickens’ walking not to be observant in the conventional sense, but an act of dreaming.

He walked not to see things but to get the sense of them.

I am both a town traveller and a country traveller, and am always on the road.”, he writes in The Uncommercial Traveller, his series of essays linked by the idea of walking.

There is the sense of Dickens having always to walk, so that he was travelling in his mind wherever he might be, and being released into the act of walking became a necessary expression of his mind’s direction.

Walk from Higham a couple of miles north to St Mary’s Church, Dickens’ parish church.

Above: Gads Hill Place, Higham, Kent, England – Charles Dickens’ final home (1856 – 1870)

The road gives up at this point.

Proceed across fields, along little-used railways lines and past water-filled gravel pits, past Cliffe and onwards to Cooling.

Cooling is a small strip of a village with the ruins of a privately-owned castle and St. James Church, a favourite Dickens picnic location.

It is an ancient, disused (but handsomely maintained) church with a 13th century font and some 14th century pews.

But its most famous feature is found in the graveyard – 13 gravestones of the children of two families, known now as ‘Pip’s graves’.

In Great Expectations, Pip describes seeing:

… five little stone lozenges, each about a foot and a half long, which were arranged in a neat row beside their grave, and were sacred to the memory of five little brothers of mine — who gave up trying to get a living, exceedingly early in that universal struggle …

Famously Dickens reduced the number from thirteen to five, so as not to stretch the credibility of his readers too far.

But the 13 gravestones are there in a row, even if they do derive from two families rather than one.

The names are no longer legible, but they are of the Baker and Comport families, none of whom lived beyond the age of 17 months, having died between 1771 and 1779.

They may all have died of malaria (ague), no great surprise in a marshland area.

One can readily imagine the scene in the greys of winter with a sharp wind coming in off the North Sea to feel that overpowering sense of time, place and consequence – “the unbearable realism of a dream” – that is the cornerstone of Dickens’ art.

Above: The 13 children’s gravestones at St James Church, Cooling, Kent, England – inspiration for the opening scene of Great Expectations

To be at St James Church is to feel that you are on the edge of Nowhere.

Though there were signs of human habitation, there are no humans.

No one but yourself.

The church pays witness to lives lived on the margin, people whose lives came and went unnoticed.

It is a place of minimal expectations.

Yet those lives went on, and there is a powerful sense of a life on the margins being a life for all that, something which imbues the UK’s many used and disused (or redundant) churches, which makes their continued preservation so important.

It is not the chancels, naves and pews that matter, though they have their value.

It is the lives past that revolved around such buildings that are important.

They make things more actual than things really are.

They turn plain reality into reverie and connect our lives to stories – such as Pip’s.

Something of this Charles Dickens saw in Cooling, as he walked by, paused awhile, and then walked on.

Above: St. James Church, Cooling, Kent, England

Wikipedia informs me that Rochester is at the lowest bridging point of the River Medway, that Rochester was for many years a favourite of Charles Dickens (who owned nearby Gads Hill Place) basing his novels (The Pickwick Papers, Great Expectations, The Mystery of Edwin Drood) here, that the Diocese of Rochester is the second oldest in England, that King’s School is the second oldest continuously running school in the world, and that Rochester Castle has one of the best preserved keeps to be found in either England or France.

Above: Medway River, Rochester Bridge, Rochester, Kent, England

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Rochester

Above: King’s School, Rochester, Kent, England

Above: Rochester Castle, Rochester, Kent, England

Rochester was sacked at least twice and besieged on another occasion.

Rochester has produced two martyrs:

  • John Fisher (1469 – 1535), executed by King Henry VIII for refusing to sanction divorce from Queen Catherine of Aragon
  • Nicholas Ridley (1500 – 1555), executed by Queen Mary for being Protestant

Above: John Fisher

Above: King Henry VIII of England (1491 – 1547)

Above: Catherine of Aragon (1485 – 1536)

Above: Nicholas Ridley

Above: Queen Mary of England (1516 – 1588)

Rochester has for centuries been of great strategic importance through its position near the confluence of the Thames and the Medway.

During the First World War (1914 – 1918) the Short Brothers’ aircraft manufacturing company developed the first plane to launch a torpedo, the Short Admirality Type 184, at its seaplane factory on the River Medway not far from Rochester Castle.

In the intervening period between the World Wars, Short Brothers established a worldwide reputation as a constructor of flying boats.

During the Second World War (1939 – 1945), Short Brothers also designed and manufactured the first four-engined bomber, the Stirling.

Above: Statue of the Short Brothers – Oswald (1883 – 1969), Horace (1872 – 1917) and Eustace (1875-1932), Musswell Manor, Isle of Shippey, England

Britain’s decline in naval power and shipbuilding competitiveness led to the government decommissioning the nearby Royal Navy Shipyard at Chatham in 1984, which led to the subsequent demise of much local maritime industry.

Rochester and its neighbouring communities were hit hard by this and have experienced a painful adjustment to a post-industrial economy, with much social deprivation and unemployment resulting.

On the closure of Chatham Dockyard the area experienced an unprecedented surge in unemployment.

Above: Chatham Dockyard, 1830

Since 1980 the city has seen the revival of the historic Rochester Jack-in-the-Green May Day (1 May) dancing chimney sweeps tradition, which had died out in the early 1900s.

Above: Sweeps Dance, Rochester, Kent, 2006

Though not unique to Rochester (similar sweeps’ gatherings were held across southern England, notably in Bristol, Deptford, Whitstable and Hastings), its revival was directly inspired by Dickens’ description of the celebration in Sketches by Boz.

The festival has since grown from a small gathering of local Morris dance sides to one of the largest in the world. 

The festival begins with the “Awakening of Jack-in-the-Green” ceremony and continues in Rochester High Street over the May Bank Holiday weekend.

Above: Jack in the Green, Kingston, England

Jack in the Green, also known as Jack o’ the Green, is an English folk custom associated with the celebration of May Day (1 May).

It involves a pyramidal or conical wicker or wooden framework that is decorated with foliage being worn by a person as part of a procession, often accompanied by musicians.

The Jack in the Green tradition developed in England during the 18th century.

It emerged from an older May Day tradition — first recorded in the 17th century — in which milkmaids carried milk pails that had been decorated with flowers and other objects as part of a procession.

Increasingly, the decorated milk pails were replaced with decorated pyramids of objects worn on the head.

By the latter half of the 18th century the tradition had been adopted by other professional groups, such as bunters and chimney sweeps.

The earliest known account of a Jack in the Green came from a description of a London May Day procession in 1770.

By the 19th century, the Jack in the Green tradition was largely associated with chimney sweeps.

The tradition died out in the early 20th century.

Later that century, various revivalist groups emerged, continuing the practice of Jack in the Green May Day processions in various parts of England.

The Jack in the Green has also been incorporated into various modern Pagan parades and activities.

The Jack in the Green tradition has attracted the interest of folklorists and historians since the early 20th century.

 

Above: Jack in the Green procession, Hastings, England

There are numerous other festivals in Rochester apart from the Sweeps Festival.

The association with Dickens is the theme for Rochester’s two Dickens Festivals held annually in June and December. 

Above: Dickens Festival, Rochester, Kent, England

The Medway Fuse Festival usually arranges performances in Rochester.

Above: Medway Fuse Festival, Rochester, Kent, England

The latest festival to take shape is the Rochester Literature Festival, the brainchild of three local writers.

A Huguenot Museum was opened in Rochester on 13 May 2015.

The 1959 Ian Fleming novel Goldfinger describes James Bond driving along the A2 through the Medway towns from Strood to Chatham.

Of interest is the mention of “inevitable traffic jams” on the Strood side of Rochester Bridge, the novel being written some years prior to the construction of the M2 motorway Medway bypass.

Rochester is the setting of the controversial 1965 Peter Watkins TV film The War Game, which depicts the town’s destruction by a nuclear missile.

The 2011 adventure film Ironclad is loosely based upon the 1215 siege of Rochester Castle.

A scene in the 2001 film Last Orders, starring Bob Hoskins and Tom Courtenay, was filmed in Rochester High Street.

As I have only progressed in The Pickwick Papers as far as the end of Chapter 2, I will not burden you, my gentle readers, any further in describing the itinerary of the Pickwickians at this time.

Suffice to say that my reading prompts my explorations and my explorations prompt my reading.

Case in point are my travels with my wife to Mürren, Switzerland in January 2022.

Above: Mürren, Switzerland

Landschlacht to Mürren, Switzerland, Wednesday 6 January 2022

The travel discussions between the wife and I are far less formal than those of the Pickwick Club.

I mention places I would like to visit and eventually we visit them.

We had planned to visit Piz Gloria the previous May, but I stumbled and fell down in a St. Gallen street two weeks prior to our planned visit shattering my left wrist and right elbow.

The trip was postponed.

Finally we set off this day from our apartment building in Landschlacht.

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Charles Dickens, Preface to The Pickwick Papers

“The author’s object in this work was to place before the reader a constant succession of characters and incidents, to paint them in as vivid colours as he could command and to render them at the same time lifelike and amusing.

It is obvious that in a work published with a view to such considerations, no artfully interwoven or ingeniously complicated plot can with reason be expected.

The author ventures a hope that he has successfully surmounted the difficulties of his undertaking.

If it be objected that The Pickwick Papers are a mere series of adventures in which the scenes are ever changing and the characters come and go like the men and women we encounter in the real world, he can only content himself with reflection that they claim to be nothing else.

The same objections have been made to the works of some of the greatest novelists in the English language.

The following pages have been written from time to time almost as the periodical occasion arose.

If any of the author’s imperfect descriptions, while they afford amusement in the perusal, should induce one reader to think better of his fellow men and to look upon the brighter and more kindly side of human nature, he would indeed be proud and happy to have led to such a result.

Literature is not behind the ages but rather holds its place and strives to do its duty.”

Imaginative literature, which my blogs are and are not, primarily pleases rather than teaches.

I seek to do both in my writing.

I try to communicate experiences – ones that the reader can have, can share.

We experience things through the exercise of our senses and imagination.

We must act in such a way when reading a story that we let it act upon us.

We must allow it to move us.

We must let it do whatever it wants to do on us.

We must make ourselves open to it.

This is what I value in walking versus any other mode of travel – an awareness of the experience in all its sensory power.

Oh, how I wish that the journey I am about to describe had taken place on foot rather than in an automobile, but time and money tend to dictate most people’s itineraries!

The journey I am about to describe will take longer to show than the actual journey itself took, much like the TV series M.A.S.H. (1972 – 1983) lasted longer than the Korean War (1950 – 1953) it portrayed.

Landschlacht is a bedroom community and most residents of this hamlet of 1,452 souls work in Kreuzlingen, 15 kilometres to the west across from Konstanz, Germany.

Above: Landschlacht / Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Kreuzlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

This was not the case for my wife and during the time before I took up my position as a teacher in Türkiye neither was this the case for me.

Above: Flag of Turkey

My wife is a doctor gainfully and (mostly) happily employed at the nearby Kantonspital (cantonal hospital) in the hamlet of Münsterlingen to the west.

During the decade I was there, I mostly worked as a teacher in the towns of Weinfelden, Romanshorn and Herisau, and in the cities of Konstanz, Kreuzlingen and St. Gallen.

Above: Rathausstrasse, Weinfelden, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Romanshorn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Herisau, Canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Switzerland

Above: St. Gallen, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Landschlacht lies on the shore of the Bodensee (Lake Constance) on the main road between Schaffhausen and Rorschach.

Above: Outline of the Bodensee (Lake Constance), shared between Switzerland, Germany and Austria

Above: Schaffhausen, Canton Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Above: Rorschach, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Landschlacht is a final bus stop for the Konstanz bus lines and a train stop on the Kreuzlingen – Romanshorn line.

Above: Logo of Konstanz buslines

Above: Landschlacht Bahnhof, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The first people settled on the shores of the Bodensee as early as the Neolithic Age, as evidenced by many finds. 

The settlement was first mentioned in 817 as Lanchasalachi

Above: Former tithe house, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Landschlacht was an episcopal fief of Konstanz. 

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Konstanz

In the High Middle Ages, the Bailiwick belonged to the barons of Güttingen and later to other families. 

Above: Güttingen Castle, Güttingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 1413, half of the court rule was sold to Hans Dürrenmüller and ten co-principles of Landschlacht, the other half went to the Petershausen Monastery in 1452 and to the Münsterlingen Monasters in 1486. 

Above: The Benedictine Abbey of Petershausen, Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany, 1627

In 1621, the eleven owner families sold their shares to the Münsterlingen Monastery, where they remained until 1798.

Above: Münsterlingen Monastery, Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Landschlacht always shared the fate of the Parish of Altnau (next town to the east). 

Above: Oberdorf (upper town), Altnau, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The St. Leonhard Chapel, built before 1000, is decorated with Gothic frescoes, the sole site in Landschlacht worth visiting.

Along with the Sylvester Chapel in the Goldbach district of Überlingen, the St. Leonhard Chapel is one of the oldest Romanesque chapels in the Lake Constance area. 

The oldest parts were created before the year 1000 and it has been frescoed since the 11th century.

The Passion cycle (2nd half of the 15th century) and the Leonhard cycle (dated 1432) are particularly well preserved.

The western half of the chapel with the entrance is Romanesque and built of coarse field stones. 

The other half of the chapel is Gothic and was added at the end of the 14th century. 

The chapel is equipped with Gothic tracery windows.

Above: St. Leonhard Chapel, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Interior of St. Leonhard Chapel, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 1855, the three-field system of farming still existed with livestock breeding, fruit growing and viticulture being practiced. 

Above: The three-field system used in medieval agriculture

In 1880, a cheese dairy was built. 

From 1898 the vines were destroyed because of phylloxera infestation (plant lice). 

Above: Unfriendly neighbourhood plant lice

In the 19th and 20th centuries, work was offered by industry and the cantonal hospitals (General and Psychiatric) that have existed since 1840. 

Above: Münsterlingen Monastery, now the cantonal hospital building

From 1961 Landschlacht experienced its first construction boom, a boom that has mostly fizzled.

A town that once had a general store and a post office no longer does.

Of the 1,452 inhabitants of the village of Landschlacht in 2018, 452 or 31.1% were foreign citizens, though I suspect I was its sole Canadian. 

498 (34.3%) were Evangelical Reformed and 456 (31.4%) Roman Catholic.

The latter is the religion of my spouse while I remain unaffiliated to any faith.

Perhaps to both religion’s and my benefit?

Landschlacht being a part of the Municipality of Münsterlingen requires a few words must be said regarding Münsterlingen.

Above: Coat of arms of Münsterlingen

The Municipality has a total of 3,512 inhabitants and is comprised of the communities of Landschlacht, Münsterlingen and Scherzingen.

Above: Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The village centre is on the southern shore of the Bodensee, with the grounds of the Münsterlingen Monastery adjoining to the east.

Above: Münsterlingen Monastery, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

According to legend, the monastery in Münsterlingen was founded around 986 by a sister of Abbot Gregor von Einsiedeln and dedicated to St. Walburga. 

Above: Einsiedeln Monastery, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

Above: Statue of St. Walburga (710 – 779), Contern, Canton Luxembourg, Luxembourg

In 1125, Münsterlingen was first mentioned in a document as Munsterlin

Pope Innocent IV confirmed the Augustinian Rule in 1254.

Above: Pope Innocent IV (né Sinibaldo de Fieschi) (1195 – 1254)

In 1288, the convent was able to buy its way out of the Bailiwick of the Lords of Klingen. 

It extended immunity for the monastic district and began establishing judicial rule over their courts. 

Above: Altenklingen Castle, Wigoltingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 1460, Münsterlingen came under the Kastvogtei of the seven federal towns that governed Thurgau Canton and was henceforth subject to their jurisdiction. 

Above: Structure of the Swiss Confederation in the 18th century

In 1524, the Protestant Reformation took hold. 

Above: German Protestant reformer Martin Luther (1483 – 1546)

In 1549, monastic life was restored by Benedictine nuns from Engelberg Abbey. 

Above: Engelberg Monastery, Canton Obwalden, Switzerland

1618 saw the monastery built as patronage of a reformed church in Scherzingen. 

Above: Reformed Church, Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

By 1716 the monastery had a new convent building and a new monastery church built further inland. 

From 1486 to 1621 Münsterlingen acquired jurisdiction over Landschlacht. 

In 1509, Münsterlingen was contractually part of Thurgau Canton. 

Above: Coat of arms of Canton Thurgau

The monastery retained jurisdiction over Münsterlingen, Landschlacht, Uttwil, Schönenbaumgarten and Belzstadel until 1798.

Above: Uttwil, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Schönenbaumgarten, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Langrickenbach, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

With the secularization of their property on the German side of the Bodensee and a number of bad harvests from 1805 to 1817, the monastery’s economy ran into difficulties.

In 1839, the Canton of Thurgau took over a wing of the building and opened the cantonal hospital in it in 1840. 

In 1848, Thurgau dissolved the monastery. 

In 1849, Doctor Ludwig Binswanger was entrusted with the treatment of the mentally ill. 

Above: Ludwig Binswanger Sr. (1820 – 1880)

In 1894, this department received its own building by the Lake. 

In 1972, after long disputes, the new building of the Münsterlingen Cantonal Hospital, which cost around 70 million Swiss francs, was ready for occupancy. 

On 1 January 1994, the political community of Münsterlingen was formed as part of the Thurgau community reorganization. 

It consists of the two formerly independent local communities of Landschlacht and Scherzingen. 

The new Municipality took its name and coat of arms from the old monastery complex in Münsterlingen.

In 1999, the cantonal hospital and the psychiatric clinic in Münsterlingen were integrated into Spital Thurgau AG. 

In 2005, this provides the Municipality 97% of its jobs.

The clinic and hospital alone employ 877 people. 

Above: Spital Thurgau, Münsterlingen

In the past, wine was cultivated on the surrounding slopes, but today it is mainly farming and pastoralism. 

Founded in 1886, the Rutishauser Winery, which merged with the Fenaco subsidiary DiVino to form Rutishauser-DiVino AG in 2021, achieved sales of almost 40 million francs in 2010 and bottled around three million bottles of wine. 

Above: Rutishauser Winery, Scherzingen, Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 2016, Münsterlingen offered work to 2,290 people (converted to full-time positions). 

Of these, 1.2% worked in agriculture and forestry, 1.8% in industry, commerce and construction, and 97.0% in the service sector.  

The most important employers as aforementioned are the cantonal hospital and the psychiatric clinic.

Above: Logo for Thurgau Wirtschaft und Arbeit (Business and Labour)

(Which kind of lends credibility to the joke that one does not need to be crazy to live here but it really helps if you are.)

In terms of rail transport, Münsterlingen has three stations on the Selllinie (lake line): Münsterlingen-Scherzingen, Münsterlingen Spital and Landschlacht. 

As aforementioned, a bus line connects Münsterlingen to the city bus networks of the nearby cities of Kreuzlingen and Konstanz.

Above: Münsterlingen-Scherzingen Bahnhof, Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Münsterlingen-Spital Bahnhof, Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Münsterlingen Abbey (taken over by the Canton of Thurgau) has a baroque church. 

Above: St. Remigus Church, Münsterlingen Abbey, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

With Hagnau on the other side of the Lake, there is a custom to carry the bust of St. John the Baptist across the frozen lake to the respective partner community during the Seegfrörne (the freezing over).

Above: Bust of St. John the Baptist, Interior of St. Remigus Church, Münsterlingen Abbey, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Since 1963, the last time the Bodensee froze over, the wooden head has remained in the former monastery church of St. Remigius of Münsterlingen.

Above: Record of the years when the Bodensee froze over, Lochau-Hörbranz, Vorarlberg, Austria

Not shown but historically recorded are the years 875, 895, 1074, 1076, 1108, 1217, 1227, 1277, 1323, 1325, 1378, 1379, 1383, 1409, 1431, 1435, 1460, 1465, 1470, 1479, 1512, 1553, 1560, 1564, 1565, 1571, 1573, 1684, 1695 and 1788.

Above: Commemoration of the first crossing, ice procession in 1963 and togetherness at the lake on a boulder in Hagnau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Ice procession of 1830 from Münsterlingen in Switzerland to Hagnau in Germany across the frozen Bodensee (Lake Constance)

Above: Hagnau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Interior of St. John the Baptist Church, Hagnau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

The Kreuzlingen – Romanshorn railway line runs between the village and the Lake. 

Below the railway line in a park area by the Lake are the buildings of the privatized Psychiatric Clinic founded in 1839, formerly the Cantonal Psychiatric Hospital, and the Mansio Foundation. 

Above the tracks, the monastery is the Spital Thurgau. 

Münsterlingen Seeseite” (lakeside) is a euphemism in the local colloquial language for the psychiatric clinic.

The psychiatric institution in Münsterlingen has come under public criticism since 2013 because children from the Catholic children’s home in Fischingen were alleged to have been exposed to illegitimate drug trials there in the early 1970s.

Above: Psychiatrische Klinik Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The Municipality has known more than its fair share of personalities.

No pun intended on the Psychiatric Clinic.

The Municipality has known:

  • Ludwig Binswanger Sr. and Otto Binswanger (psychiatrists)

Otto, the son of Ludwig Binswanger Sr. established an international reputation as a clinician. 

The development of an independent child and adolescent psychiatry goes back to his suggestion. 

In Jena (Switzerland) he worked in an advisory capacity at the sanatorium for children and young people on Sophienhöhe Street. 

In addition to his extensive work, he worked in a field hospital during WW1 as an expert and advisor to the Thuringian army corps. 

Among his more than 100 publications are his probably most important works on epilepsy, neurasthenia and psychiatry as well as his work on hysteria. 

Death overtook him on 15 July 1929 while playing cards.

Above: Otto Binswanger (1852 – 1929)

Above: The card hand purportedly held by US gunfighter Wild Bill Hickok (1837 – 1876) at the time of his death: black aces and eights

Here is a germ of a story idea that reminds me of The Seventh Seal, a 1957 Swedish historical fantasy film written and directed by Ingmar Bergman.

Set in Sweden during the Black Death, it tells of the journey of a medieval knight (Max von Sydow) and a game of chess he plays with the personification of Death (Bengt Ekerot), who has come to take his life.

Bergman developed the film from his own play Wood Painting.

The title refers to a passage from the Book of Revelation, used both at the very start of the film, and again towards the end, beginning with the words:

And when the Lamb had opened the seventh seal, there was silence in Heaven about the space of half an hour“.

Here, the motif of silence refers to the “silence of God“, a major theme of the film.

Above: Death (Bengt Ekerot:1920 – 1971) and Antonius Block (Max von Sydow:1929 – 2020) choose sides for the chess game

I am also reminded of Kenny Roger’s song The Gambler:

The song tells the story of a late-night meeting on a train “bound for nowhere” between the narrator and a man known only as “the gambler“.

The gambler tells the narrator that he can tell he is down on his luck (“out of aces“) by the look in his eyes, and offers him advice in exchange for his last swallow of whisky.

After the gambler takes the drink (and bums a cigarette), he gives the following advice:

You’ve got to know when to hold ’em, know when to fold ’em,

Know when to walk away, know when to run.


You never count your money when you’re sittin’ at the table,

There’ll be time enough for countin’ when the dealin’s done.

The gambler then mentions that the “secret to survivin’ is knowing what to throw away and knowing what to keep” and that “the best you can hope for is to die in your sleep“.

Shortly thereafter, the gambler puts out his cigarette and dies in his sleep;

Somewhere in the darkness, the gambler, he broke even.”

The narrator finds in his final words “an ace that he could keep“.

  • Julia Onken (psychologist / psychotherapist)

Julia Onken first did an apprenticeship as a stationer and then worked as a buyer in a stationery store. 

When her second daughter started kindergarten, she began studying at the Academy for Applied Psychology in Zürich and continued her education in person-centered client-centred psychotherapy and analytical couples therapy. 

After graduation, she worked in prison and probation, as a lecturer in adult education and opened her own psychotherapeutic practice. 

After her divorce she founded the Frauen Seminar Bodensee (FSB) in 1987. 

In 1998 she founded the association Education Fund for Women, which she has been President ever since. 

She has been a writer since 1987.

Her non-fiction books and guidebooks are also available in numerous translations. 

Her daughter Maya Onken is also a writer.

Some titles from the pen of Julia Onken:

  • Fire Sign Woman: A Report on Menopause
  • Borrowed Luck: An Account of Everyday Love
  • Father Men: An Account of the Father-Daughter Relationship and Its Impact on Partnership
  • Mirror Images: Types of men – How women see through them and recognize themselves in the process
  • The Cherries in the Neighbor’s Garden: The causes of cheating and the conditions for staying at home
  • Mistress in Her Own House: Why women lose their self-confidence and how to regain it
  • If You Really Love Me: The most common relationship pitfalls and how to avoid them 
  • Indian Summer. An Account of the Postmenopausal Period
  • Actually Everything Went Wrong: My Way to Happiness 
  • Help, I’m an Emancipated Mother: A Mother and Daughter Argument 
  • On the Day of the White Chrysanthemums: An Account of Love and Jealousy
  • Love Ping Pong: The Relationship Game between Man and Woman (with Mathias Jung)
  • Raven Daughters: Why I still love my mother
  • With the Heart of the Lioness: Why women lose their self-confidence and how to regain it 

Above: Julia Onken

Here again, a number of thoughts, albeit unpopular ones, spring to mind:

I have a suspicion that there are many women who get into psychiatry who are more interested in aiding and understanding themselves rather than a burning zeal to help or understand others, especially the opposite gender.

Why do we use pheromones as an excuse to justify some women’s behaviour?

It seems to me that far too often there are women who lack accountability for their actions and use the excuse of biology and gender to excuse the inexcusable acts that some do.

I am not privy to the details of her failed marriage.

Perhaps her ex was unworthy of her.

But at the same time I am reminded that in over 70% of failed marriages it is the woman who initiates the divorce.

Can all these divorces be solely the fault of men?

  • Peter Stamm and Tabea Steiner (writers)

Peter Stamm was born the son of an accountant and grew up with three siblings in Weinfelden in the Canton of Thurgau. 

Above: Peter Stamm Weg, Weinfelden, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

According to his own statements, he was underchallenged at school and therefore spent a lot of time in his fantasy world from an early age. 

Stamm completed a commercial apprenticeship and worked at times as an accountant. 

Stamm’s first three novels never found a publisher. 

Above: Peter Stamm

Agnes, the fourth novel he began writing when he was 29, was not published until six years later. 

After Stamm studied English at the University of Zürich for six months in 1987 and then lived in New York City for six months, he switched to psychology, with psychopathology and computer science as a minor. 

Above: Logo of the University of Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Images of New York City, USA

He was also an intern worked at various psychiatric clinics. 

He explains his choice of studies because of his interest in literature:

He wanted to find out more about people as a subject of literature. 

Dropping out of psychology studies was a conscious decision to put writing at the center of his life. 

Now his only choice was to write or go back to work as an accountant.

After lengthy stays in New York, Paris and Scandinavia, Peter Stamm settled in Winterthur in 1990. 

Above: Winterthur, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Here he worked primarily as a journalist, which enabled him to publish his texts for the first time. 

Among others, Stamm worked for the Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) (New Zürich Times), the Tages-Anzeiger (Daily Gazette), Weltwoche (World Week) and the satirical magazine Nebelspalter (Fog splitter). 

From 1997 he was a member of the editorial board of the literary magazine Entwürfe (Drafts)

From 1998 to 2003 he lived in Zürich, since then back in Winterthur. 

Above: Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

After the success of his first novel and the publications that followed, his work as a journalist took a back seat to literature, on which he now concentrates. 

Stamm has been a member of the Association of Swiss Authors since 2003.

Peter Stamm is the author of narrative prose, radio and theatre plays. 

Characteristic is his distanced narrative style and his simple style, which consists of short main clauses and almost completely does without decorative adjectives, metaphors or comparisons. 

Stamm himself describes that his style is strongly based on a repeated reduction of what is written. 

The more language recedes into the background, the more real the drawn images become.

In his own words, Stamm writes “about people and about relationships between people”. 

Recurring themes are the diverse possibilities of love relationships, the impossibility of love, distance and closeness, and the relationship between image and reality. 

In his work, the focus is not on the content, but on the way in which something is told. 

That’s why he doesn’t choose original content:

That distracts from the quality of the text.

With his third novel, An einem Tag wie diesem (On a Day Like This), Stamm moved from the Arche publishing house in Zürich to the S. Fischer publishing house in Frankfurt am Main. 

Even before that, unlike most Swiss authors, he sold his books five times more often in Germany than in Switzerland. 

Fellow writer Daniel Arnet explained this with a “Helvetism-free language” and “content that is free of geraniums” and “not federally coded” in its universality. 

Above: Daniel Arnet

A review in the Literary Quartet in 1999, Marcel Reich-Ranicki commented that Stamm’s Blitzreis (Black Ice) collection of stories was one of the most beautiful and important books of the season, while Hellmuth Karasek judged:

This is a narrator who can do a lot because he knows how to omit and concentrate.” 

Above: Title screen shot of Das Literarische Quartett (The Literary Quartet)(2DF)

Above: Marcel Reich-Ranicki (1920 – 2013)

Above: Hellmuth Karasek (1934 – 2015)

More than 150 translations of Peter Stamm’s works have appeared in 40 languages.

The novel Agnes was filmed in 2016 by Johannes Schmid under the same name. 

Storyline: The 41-year-old non-fiction author Walter begins an affair with the much younger and unapproachable student Agnes. 

She persuades him to write a novel about her so that she can find out how her personality affects him. 

Fiction and reality soon become blurred:

Agnes realizes that Walter is beautifying her in the novel and glorifying their relationship. 

Increasingly she behaves as Walter describes her in the story. 

When Agnes becomes pregnant, Walter reacts differently than Agnes hoped so that she breaks up with him. 

After the miscarriage, they initially find each other again. 

When Agnes decides that the novel should end with her suicide, it remains unclear to the viewer whether her death by freezing is just fictitious or also real. 

In the end, Walter is alone again.

Based on the short story Der Lauf der Dinge (The Natural Way of Things) by Peter Stamm, Ulrike Kofler made the feature film Was wir wollten (What We Wanted) (2019).

Storyline: Niklas and Alice are a happy couple who really lack nothing, but they still suffer from their unfulfilled desire to have children. 

Four attempts at artificial insemination using in vitro fertilization have already failed. 

Therefore, the two decide to take a break in Sardinia to rethink their life plans together.

In Sardinia, a lot of things come up that the two had tried to suppress up until now. 

An apparently good-humoured couple from Tyrol (Austria) is moving into the house next door. 

Their two children, the pubescent David and the five-year-old Denise, initially make it difficult for Alice to come to terms with her unfulfilled desire to have children. 

David’s suicide attempt changes Niklas and Alice’s attitude towards the meaning of life and one suspects that they are abandoning their previous plan of life.

My favourite Stamm novel is Weit über das Land (To the Back of Beyond).

Storyline: Happily married with two children and a comfortable home in a Swiss town, Thomas and Astrid enjoy a glass of wine in their garden on a night like any other.

Called back to the house by their son’s cries, Astrid goes inside, expecting her husband to join her in a bit.

But Thomas gets up and, after a brief moment of hesitation, opens the gate and walks out. 

No longer bound by the ties of his everyday life – family, friends, work -Thomas begins a winding trek across the countryside, exposed as never before to the Alpine winter.

At home, Astrid wonders where he is gone, when he will come back, whether he is still alive. 

Following Thomas and Astrid on their separate paths, To the Back of Beyond becomes ultimately a meditation on the limits of freedom and on the craving to be wanted.

There is much in this story that I can relate to – of my own life’s journey and of the journeys of others.

I wonder how Onken would classify this type of man.

Above: Le Penseur (The Thinker), Auguste Rodin Museum, Paris, France

Tabea Steiner grew up on a farm in Altishausen in the Canton of Thurgau. 

Above: Tabea Steiner

Above: Altishausen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

She trained as a primary school teacher and studied German and history at the University of Bern from 2004 to 2016. 

Above: Logo of the University of Bern, Canton Bern, Switzerland

Since 2004, Steiner has been working in the mediation of literature. 

She organizes and moderates readings and is, among other things, the initiator and member of the management board of the Thun Literature Festival, which is organized by the Project Literaare.  

Above: Thun, Canton Bern, Switzerland

In her first novel, Balg (Brat), Steiner tells of a childhood in the country:

Chris and Antonia dream of a family idyll in the country. 

However, the whole thing turns out to be more difficult than expected, since, on the one hand, everyday life with Timon, her child, proves to be more strenuous than expected and, on the other hand, Chris has trouble finding enough work in the country. 

The young couple separates shortly thereafter and from then on Antonia takes care of her son alone. 

It turns out early on that the boy is a problematic child. 

Because in the playgroup he can’t help but bite or bother other children. 

His behavior remains precarious. 

At the same time, Antonia threatens to get lost in the everyday life of the village and cares only half-heartedly for her son. 

No one seems to be able to break through to Timon except Valentin, the current postman and former teacher who once taught Antonia. 

Antonia doesn’t like Valentin and tries to have as little to do with him as there was an incident with Tanja, Valentin’s daughter and Antonia’s best friend. 

The boy often visits Valentin because he has rabbits that Timon likes to take care of. 

Since the situation with the difficult boy is not getting any better and he has now also started smoking, Lydia (Timon’s grandmother) discusses with Konrad (another villager) a possible break for the mother and her son. 

He is to spend a while on a farm. 

He likes it there very much, but Antonia is not satisfied and goes to pick him up against his will. 

The relationship between the two is getting worse and worse. 

Shortly thereafter, Antonia introduces her new boyfriend (Markus). 

Markus and the boy don’t like each other. 

It goes so far that the new lover says he only comes when the lad is gone. 

When the time with Timon doesn’t get any easier, the lovers decide to go on vacation. 

The mother sells Timon’s new bike, which he had longed for, for a new coat. 

In addition, Markus persuades Antonia that he can have her son’s room and that the boy can move in with Lydia. 

This change of residence is intended as an interim solution until the boy has to go into a home. 

When the boy finds out about this decision, he leaves home and spends the night in the abandoned cheese factory. 

Valentin supports him by providing him with food and washing his clothes. 

When the boy returns to the apartment one evening, he happens to meet Markus. 

The two fight. 

Finally, the half-naked boy is dumped at Lydia’s front door. 

In the future he will spend the week at the home and at the weekend he will stay with his grandmother. 

The story ends with a dialogue between Lydia and Valentin. 

They talk about Timon and Valentin offers him a job.

Told chronologically, the 236-page story follows Timon from birth to early teens. 

Flashbacks into the lives of the people around are reproduced piece by piece in the form of memories and thoughts, which never come together to form a complete picture even at the end of the novel. 

The riddle surrounding the dispute between Antonia, or rather Tanja, and Valentin creates a tension that runs through the entire book.

In her review of the novel, Xenia Boyarsky wrote: 

The perspectives are worked out precisely and the relationships between the characters can be felt in detail. 

In the constant alternation of observing and being observed, the inhabitants of the novel appear both sympathetic and unsympathetic at the same time, and the dichotomy of good and evil becomes blurred. 

The reader staggers from one character perspective to the next, always looking for answers, for the why and maybe for improvement.

Tabea Steiner writes mercilessly, directly and without hesitation. 

Every sentence reverberates, makes you pause and at one point or another even put the book aside because what is there seems unbelievable at first glance.“, writes Xenia Bojarski.

Above: Xenia Bojarski

And yet Steiner tells the story with convincing sensitivity and does not turn the inside of the protagonists inside out, as Gallus Frei-Tomic writes in his review of the novel: 

Another quality of this novel are all the half-shadows that are not illuminated, the mere hints that are left to the reader, but which resonate and give the book, the narration, space. 

And last but not least, it is the calm, careful way of storytelling, a language that not only carefully approaches the content, but also in its expression.”

Above: Gallus Frei-Tomic

In the official laudatory speech of the Swiss Book Prize, the writer Monika Steiner praises:

Tabea Steiner manages to control the tension through the dramaturgy, the reader feels the escalating drama without coming up with catastrophes and violent events. 

As a narrator, she keeps her distance, soberly describes the everyday life of the single mother, documents excerpts of village life and the people in Timon’s life. 

From the very first sentence – “The amniotic sac bursts, Chris drives Antonia to the hospital in the small town nearby, twenty-four hours later the birth is initiated.” – you are drawn in by the pull, which is caused by the changing perspectives of the main characters and also the non-conforming perception at times generated by Timon is taken away.

The author tells in an impressive way how a child slips away from everyone.” 

She goes on to say that from beginning to end, no chapters break or stop the narrative flow. 

“Every word is spot on, every selected episode of this sad childhood shows the traces on the child’s soul and the consequences of it in razor-sharp images. 

And nobody, neither the parents, the grandmother with her daughter, the teacher, manages to have a real conversation. 

Therein lies the true art of this harrowing story. 

The novel is a desperately tender book about love and speechlessness. 

It becomes a literary event through the richness of its images and the sovereign intensity of the language treatment.

Above: Monika Steiner

I find myself unsympathetic to Antonia.

She abandons her husband at a time when he needed her emotional support, then neglects her son in search of her own emotional needs.

Her son finds happiness on a farm and she takes him from it against his will.

Her selfishness and thoughtlessness create the broken boy.

The world needs fewer women like Antonia.

I suspect Onken would be more sympathetic to Antonia than I.

  • Timon Altweg and Nils Günther (pianists)

Timon Altwegg has been living in Kreuzlingen, by the Bodensee, since 1992, from where he has a busy concert schedule. 

He has become a sought-after soloist and chamber musician and has been invited to perform in concerts throughout the United States and throughout Europe. 

In the summer of 2001, Timon Altwegg was invited to the Llanca festival in Spain. 

Further concerts with him were broadcast live on Hungarian radio and television as well as on Austrian television (ORF). 

Timon Altwegg also celebrated great successes in South America:

In 2005 and in autumn 2007 he toured through Ecuador, Colombia, Guatemala and El Salvador.

In May 2004, Timon Altwegg was acclaimed by an audience of 1,200 in a historic concert when he became the first foreign soloist to perform with the Iraqi National Symphony Orchestra in Baghdad since 1990. 

Timon Altwegg’s excellent technique is also appreciated by many contemporary composers who entrust him with the world premiere of their works.

Above: Timon Altwegg

As a composer, Nils Günther orients himself towards the doctrine of the phases of change. 

His music is medically therapeutic in the sense that it seeks to bring the listener into a state of balance.

Above: Nils Günther

  • The German cyclist Jan Ullrich once resided here.

Above: Jan Ullrich

Jan Ullrich was born in Rostock as the second child of the concrete worker Werner Ullrich and his wife Marianne, née Kaatz. 

He grew up with two brothers (Stefan and Thomas Ullrich) and a half-brother (Felix Kaatz) in Biestow and Papendorf.

Ullrich’s father first worked in a Rostock record factory and had been stationed in Rostock as a soldier since 1973. 

Marianne Ullrich studied agricultural sciences at the University of Rostock, completed her studies with a thesis on the effects of grain aphids and worked as a waitress in a Biestower inn. 

Ullrich’s parents separated in 1979.

His father founded a new family in Rostock and moved to Bad Schwartau after reunification, but lost contact with his son.

Above: Rostock, Mecklenburg-West Pomerania, Germany

In 1997, Jan Ullrich was the first and only German to win the Tour de France. 

In addition, he was five-time 2nd and once 4th in the Tour, World Amateur Road Race Champion, twice World Individual Time Trial Champion, and winner of the 2000 Olympic Road Race.

Due to his involvement in the Spanish doping scandal Fuentes, he was excluded from the Tour de France 2006 and his contract terminated without notice. 

(The Fuentes doping scandal was a doping scandal in international cycling. 

The eponymous former team doctor of the Liberty Seguros cycling team, Eufemiano Fuentes, had been selling illegal, performance-enhancing drugs to people on the international cycling scene since at least 2003, through an extensive network. 

On 23 May 2006, as part of a raid, Spanish police arrested Fuentes as well as Liberty Seguros’ sporting director Manolo Saiz and medic José Luis Merano. 

They seized large quantities of blood bags and doping substances, as well as a list of code names that were interpreted as cyclist pseudonyms. 

Above: Eufemiano Fuentes

According to the list, the suspected customers included some of the top cyclists of the time, such as Jan Ullrich, Ivan Basso and Francisco Mancebo, as well as over 50 other cyclists. 

The scandal attracted a great deal of media attention when those 58 riders were excluded from participating in the 2006 Tour de France, including eventual two-time Tour winner Alberto Contador. 

In Germany, the investigations by the Bonn public prosecutor’s office against Jan Ullrich and his personal adviser Rudy Pevenage were the focus of media interest.

The Fuentes scandal is the most comprehensive doping affair in cycling history. 

The incidents caused lasting damage to the public image of cycling, especially since many criminal investigations against suspected drivers and officials remained fruitless due to the lack of anti-doping laws and the professional cyclists concerned were able to continue their careers without impairments or after short-term suspensions.

In addition to cyclists, members of other sports, especially track and field athletes and soccer players, have also been linked to the network. 

In December 2010, the affair reached a new high with another 14 arrests, including Marta Dominguez, the vice-president of the Spanish Athletics Federation.)

Above: Marta Dominguez

After years of proceedings, the Court of Arbitration for Sport (CAS) found Ullrich guilty of doping in 2012 and annulled his successes as of 1 May 2005. 

Above: Béthusy Castle, headquarters of the Court of Arbitration for Sport in Lausanne, Canton Vaud, Switzerland

On 26 February 2007, Ullrich declared his active cycling career over.

I have often wondered:

How does a person psychologically come back from such a public shaming?

Ullrich lived in Merdingen, Germany, from 1994 to 2002 with his partner, Gaby Weiss, with whom he had a daughter, Sarah Maria, on 1 July 2003.

Above: Merdingen, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

They moved to Münsterlingen (Scherzingen) in 2002.

Since separating in 2005, allegedly because Weiss’s reluctance to be in the media spotlight conflicted with Ullrich’s celebrity life, Ullrich continued to live in Scherzingen.

Weiss returned with Sarah to Merdingen.

Above: Merdingen town hall with St. Remigius Church in the background

In September 2006, Ullrich married Sara Steinhauser, the sister of his former teammate and training partner, Tobias.

Their first child, Max, was born five weeks prematurely on 7 August 2007.

Their second son, Benno, was born on 25 January 2011.

A third son, Toni, was born on 31 October 2012.

Above: Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

On the evening of 19 May 2014, Ullrich, under the influence of alcohol, caused a serious traffic accident in Mattwil (Canton Thurgau), injuring two people and causing property damage of tens of thousands of Swiss francs. 

Ullrich stated, among other things, that he had “slipped off the brake pedal”.

Ullrich was convicted of drunk driving.

He received a suspended sentence of four years plus a fine of €10,000.

Above: Mattwil, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In August 2016, Ullrich moved with his family from Münsterlingen to Establiments north of the Mallorcan capital Palma.

Personal issues with alcohol and drugs led to his separation from his wife, Sara, at the end of 2017.

She moved back to Germany with their three sons.

On 3 August 2018, Ullrich faced charges in Spain after he broke in and threatened his neighbour, German actor and filmmaker Til Schweiger, in Mallorca.

After the incident, he announced that he would seek therapy and traveled to Germany a few days later for this purpose.

Above: Palma de Mallorca, Balearic Islands, Spain

On 9 August 2018, the police arrested him in the luxury hotel Villa Kennedy in Frankfurt am Main. 

Under the influence of alcohol and drugs, he is said to have “choked an escort until her eyes went black“. 

Above: Villa Kennedy, Frankfurt am Main, Hesse, Germany

After his release from police custody, he was temporarily committed to a psychiatric hospital for an incident. 

On 26 September 2018, a catering worker filed a criminal complaint against Ullrich for bodily harm because he is said to have pressed his thumb on his larynx at Hamburg Airport.

He then went to a rehab clinic.

By June 2019, Ullrich was on the mend. 

According to his own statement, he is “clean”. 

He now lives in Merdingen again and has regular contact with his family.

On 28 August 2019, a German court ordered him to pay a fine of €7,200.

Ullrich featured on a podcast with equally disgraced ex-cyclist Lance Armstrong covering the 2021 UCI Road World Championships, in which Ullrich said that he was fully recovered from his personal difficulties but that he had almost suffered the same fate as Marco Pantani, who died following acute cocaine poisoning in 2004.

Above: Lance Armstrong

Ullrich told Armstrong:

Three years ago I had big problems and then you came to see me.

I was so glad you came, and yes, I was just like Marco Pantani . . . nearly dead.

Above: Italian racing cyclist Marco Pantani (1970 – 2004)

Ullrich’s chances, his abilities and his training status were regularly the subject of lively discussions among journalists, cycling experts and fans over the years of his active cycling career. 

For example, the sports journalist Oskar Beck wrote:

For a short time, the whole of cycling Germany had to fear that he would ruin himself with these escapades – too much cake in winter, ominous pills in the disco, wheel stands that were knocked over and similar mishaps.” 

Above: Oskar Beck

Ullrich was also often accused by critics of not having the toughness, the unconditional will to win or the meticulous preparation for the season.

Eddy Merckx, for example, said :

If Ullrich had grown up in Belgium, he would have won the Tour three times. 

It’s not all in the body.

It’s in the head.

Above: Belgian racing cyclist Eddy Merckx

What is wrong with men?

There is a feeling in the air that men can learn to be happier, better people and that it can be a positive thing to be a man.

Men are not monsters – at least not by choice.

Boys in our society are horrendously under-fathered and are not given the processes or the mentor figures to help their growth into mature men.

With no deep training in healthy masculinity, boys’ bodies get bigger, but they do not have the inner changes to match.

They act out a role – a complete facade which does not work in any of life’s arenas.

Men are not winners.

There are very few happy men.

(Girls, for all the obstacles put in their way, at least grow up with a continuous exposure to women at home, at school and in friendship networks.

From this they learn a communicative style of womanhood that enables them to get close to other women and give and receive support throughout their lives.)

Male friendship networks are awkward and oblique, lacking in emotional intimacy and short term.

Boys and young men never know the inner world of older men, so each makes up an image based on the externals which he then acts out to “prove” he is a man.

Just as a chameleon bases its colour on its surroundings and has no “true” colour, so men often have very little sense of their true selves.

We are lost and unhappy.

The lack of help to grow into a man and the resulting desperate clinging to an “I’m fine” facade has disastrous consequences.

Men are a mess.

The terrible effects on our marriages, fathering abilities, our health and our leadership skills are a matter of public record.

Our marriages fail, our children hate us, we die from stress and on the way we destroy the world.

Women have had to overcome oppression, but men’s difficulties are with isolation.

Women’s enemies are largely in the world around them – a world they have shaped for themselves.

Men’s enemies are often on the inside – in the walls we put around our own hearts.

The enemies, the prisons from which men must escape are loneliness, compulsive competition and lifelong emotional timidity.

Men are a problem to women, but rarely is this intentional.

We are to an even greater degree a problem to ourselves.

Men and women are co-victims in patterns of living and relating that are in drastic need of revision.

The issue I have with some women is their tendency to support one another by blaming men for all their woes without acknowledging that perhaps some of women’s behaviour is also responsible for the damage they do to themselves and their partners.

Women claim that men dominate the world and are demanding equal rights.

I am all for this, but, ladies, equal rights require equal responsibility (along with equal difficulty).

One cannot ask for support and equality simultaneously.

Feminism is about women liberating themselveschanging their perceptions, laws and employment practices.

A man cannot be a feminist any more than a lion can graze on grass.

But you cannot liberate only half the human race.

Any move to change the order of things which does not also address the fact that men are equally lost, trapped and miserable only creates a backlash.

Rather than blaming all men for their woes, women should take accountability for themselves and acknowledge that their perceptions of male and female roles need changing and play an important part in the healing needed between the genders.

Too often there is an expectation that a man must be a woman’s support system emotionally (and often financially) while men are supposed to be emotionally (and financially) strong without the necessary foundations that maturity should have developed.

Happiness is never found in someone else.

Happiness must be developed from within ourselves before we are emotionally capable of loving relationships.

It is easy to condemn men like Ullrich and Armstrong, but we need to go beyond censure and instead seek comprehension and compassion for these unhappy men and their unfortunate decisions.

  • Sabine Wen-Ching Wang (playwright/poet)

Sabine Wen-Ching Wang was born in 1973 to a Swiss mother and a Taiwanese father in Münsterlingen, Thurgau.

She grew up in Appenzell. 

Above: Appenzell, Canton Appenzell Innerrhoden, Switzerland

She studied Sinology and East Asian Art History in Zürich and Taipei.

Above: Images of Taipei, Taiwan

Wang mainly writes theatre and radio plays and poetry. 

She also publishes texts in anthologies and magazines.

Some works penned by Wang:

  • Be crazy (2003)(Theatre play)
  • Late (2004) (Theatre play)
  • The pocket (2005) (Theatre play)
  • This is not a love song (2006) (Theatre play)
  • The green chick (2008) (Theatre play)
  • Corea.(2009) (Theatre play)
  • La Ceremoni(2010) (Theatre play)
  • Dog Dog (2011) (Theatre play)
  • Cosmos Hotel (2000) (Radio play)
  • The Invitation (2009) (Radio play)
  • The Land in Me (2010) (Poetry)
  • The Children’s Room as Terra Incognita (2005) (Essay)

Above: Sabine Wen-Ching Wang

  • Laurens Walter (Austrian actor)

Above: Laurens Walter

In 2001, Laurens Walter stood in front of the camera for the first time for the TV film When Love Is Lost

Walter also played in the feature film Die Österreichische Methode (The Austrian Method) (2006). 

(In this collective project of five young directors, the stories of five women, who are by no means weak, intersect…

24 hours later, some will have survived, some will have not:

Julia suddenly discovers the longing to explore her own abysses. 

A nocturnal odyssey takes her to a ski hall where she wants to explore “the Austrian Method“.

An unwanted guest is sitting with psychologist Roman Fischer and his wife Carmen:

Eva has come to dinner and doesn’t want to leave.

Clara is struggling with the diagnosis of a brain tumor. 

She oscillates desperately between repression and the decision to take her own life.

Singer Maleen tries to break open the deadlocked mechanisms of her love affair with the pianist Sascha with a poisoned ecstasy pill.

Hans and Mona (who is tied to the bed) live an amour fou in which the roles of perpetrator and victim become blurred.

The episodic film is not primarily a film about tiredness. 

It is much more about returning to life through a borderline experience or perhaps arriving at it for the first time. 

It is about the feeling of being in the wrong life and missing out on what is really important. 

Just like when you are diagnosed with a serious illness, you suddenly no longer understand how you could waste your life with all these everyday worries and petty entanglements.)

Above: Flag of Austria (Österreich)

Walter became known to a wider audience through the role of Lars Lehnhoff in the TV series Stromberg.

 

(Stromberg is a German, award-winning comedy TV series named after the central protagonist Bernd Stromberg, around whom the events of the series revolve. 

Stromberg is an adaptation of the British series The Office.

A TV team accompanies the everyday office life of the fictitious Capitol Versicherung AG with the camera. 

The place of action is usually the claims settlement department M-Z, which is headed by Bernd Stromberg. 

Of course, Stromberg wants his team – especially him, as the manager and “dad” of the department – to always be shown from the best side. 

However, he rarely succeeds in putting “his team“, and above all himself, in a good light.)

Above: Christoph Maria Herbst (Bernd Stromberg)

Walter played his first leading role (Dirk) in the feature film Morscholz (2008).

(The film Morscholz does not tell a story, but describes a state, the state of unfulfilled relationships in a family, the struggle for love and life itself.

One of the protagonists is Bernd, who almost despairs of his inner helplessness. 

He watches helplessly as his family slips away from him. 

His wife Fabienne can no longer stand him.

Since Bernd is unable to face his problems, alcohol is often the only way out for him. 

The deaf-mute Flipper is no less his victim.

Bernd’s sister Gertrud works with a pinball machine in a beverage store. 

From time to time Flipper comes to her house. 

Since Gertrud lives alone and is lonely, she carefully tries to approach Flipper.

Nephew Dirk can’t stand the boredom of the village and shows Michel, the son of Fabienne and Bernd, how best to kill wasps.

During one of the nightly senseless binges in the party room, the situation escalates:

Dirk goes nuts and threatens Bernd with a gun.)

In 2017, Walter played the role of Commissioner Fischer in the film drama Aus dem Nichts (In the Fade).

(Aus dem Nichts is a film by Fatih Akin, inspired by the 2004 nail bomb attack in Köln (Cologne) by the National Socialist Underground (NSU) (neo-Nazis) terrorist cell. 

On 9 June 2004, a nail bomb detonated in Köln, in a business area popular with immigrants from Turkey.

Twenty-two people were wounded, with four sustaining serious injuries.

A barber shop was destroyed.

Many shops and numerous parked cars were seriously damaged by the explosion and by the nails added to the bomb for extra damage.

Authorities initially excluded the possibility of a terrorist attack.

The bomb, which contained more than 800 nails, was hidden in a travel compartment on a bicycle left in front of the barber shop.

Above: Keupstrasse, Köln, Germany – where the 2004 nail bombing occurred

In November 2011, after having been accused by authorities of being responsible for a robbery in Eisenach, the neo-Nazi terrorist group National Socialist Underground (Nationalsozialistischer Untergrund) released a video claiming responsibility for the Köln bombing.

The National Socialist Underground (NSU) was a neo-Nazi terrorist organization in Germany formed around 1999 to murder people with a migrant background for racist and xenophobic motives. 

The three main perpetrators Uwe Mundlos (1973 – 2011), Uwe Böhnhardt (1977 – 2011) and Beate Zschäpe came from Jena (East Thuringia) and lived in hiding in Chemnitz and Zwickau (Saxony) from 1998. 

From 2000 to 2007, they murdered nine migrants and policewoman Michèle Kiesewetter (1984 – 2007), committed 43 murder attempts, three bomb attacks – Nuremberg (Bavaria)(1999) and Köln (Cologne) (North Rhine-Westphalia) (2001 / 2004) and 15 robberies. 

The focus of Auf dem Nichts is on a woman who loses her German-Kurdish husband and son in a bomb attack. 

When the right-wing extremist pair of perpetrators is acquitted by the court due to a lack of evidence, she looks for the perpetrators in order to take vigilante justice.

In preparation for this film, Akin drove to München (Munich) three times to follow the trial of Beate Zschäpe. 

Above: Beate Zschäpe

Dealing with the victims of the right-wing extremist terror group at the trials was the trigger for him to make the film.

Akin had also inherited the dialogues in court, the silence of the prosecutor, and the indifferent coldness of the accused. 

Akin says:

The scandal was not that German neo-Nazis had killed ten people. 

The real scandal was that the German police, society and the media were all convinced that the perpetrators must be Turks or Kurds, that some mafia was behind it.

Regarding the inner conflict of his protagonist Katja, Akin says:

There is a state judiciary and there is an individual sense of justice. 

And sometimes the two clash. 

The film is also about this clash.” )

Above: German filmmaker Fatih Akin

This list of Münsterlingen personalities is, of course, not complete.

Above: Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 20 November 2022

It is with a sense of irony that I write about Aus dem Nichts:

On Sunday 13 November 2022, an explosion occurred on Istiklal Avenue (an 1.4 kilometre / 0.87 mile pedestrian street and one of the most famous avenues in Istanbul) in the Beyoğlu district – a district on the European side of Istanbul, separated from the old city by the Golden Horn of Istanbul (a major urban waterway and the primary inlet of the Bosphorus) – at 1620 hours local time.

Six people were killed and 81 others were injured.

The city had already been targeted by terrorist attacks in 2015 and 2016 by the Islamic State (Daesh) and militants associated with the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK).

A Daesh suicide bombing in the same area killed four people in 2016.

Above: Flag of the Islamic State

No group has claimed responsibility, but Turkish authorities suspect Kurdish separatists to be behind the attack, notably the PKK and the Syrian Kurdish Democratic Union Party (PYD).

Above: Flag of the PKK

The PKK disclaimed any responsibility.

Above: Logo of the PYD

Turkiye’s Interior Minister, Suleyman Soylu, announced the arrest of the bomber and 46 others.

Above: Süleyman Soylu, Turkish Minister of the Interior

Istiklal Avenue is a popular tourist area and one of the main roads leading to Taksim Square. 

Above: Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul, Turkey

The bomb went off in front of a shopping store.

At the time of the blast, the area was more crowded than normal, as a football club was to play nearby.

Above: Turkish police and explosives experts work the scene of the explosion.

According to Turkish news portal Oda TV, the explosion was caused by an improvised explosive device containing TNT.

 

The blast caused windows to break and images circulating on social media showed people bleeding. 

Firefighters and ambulances rushed to the scene. 

The police set up a perimeter around the scene around the bombing site and banned people from coming to İstiklal Avenue and Taksim Square.

Above: Police officers secure the area after the explosion.

Istanbul’s Chief Public Prosecutors Office quickly opened an investigation after the attack.

At least eight prosecutors have been assigned to the case. 

Justice Minister Bekir Bozdağ said a woman was filmed sitting on a bench for about 40 minutes and that she left shortly before the blast.

Above: Bekir Bozdağ, Turkish Justice Minister

President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan condemned the attack.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

The Governor of Istanbul Ali Yurlikaya reported that he was convinced that it was a terrorist attack.

Above: Ali Yerikaya, Governor of Istanbul

The next day, the Minister of the Interior Süleyman Soylu formally accused the PKK of being behind the attack and announced the arrests of the bomber and 21 others.

Soylu argued that the attack was carried out by the PKK in retaliation for the Turkish invasion of northeastern Syria and criticized the US for its support of the Kurdish People’s Defense Units (YPG) in northeastern Syria.

He had previously blamed the US for an armed attack against a police station in southern Turkey in September and had said that the US had funded the Syrian Kurdish Democratic Union Party (PYD) up to $2 billion since 2019.

Above: Flag of Syria

After the main suspect in the attack, Ahlam Albashir, a Syrian national, was arrested, the Turkish police claimed that she confirmed her affiliation with PKK and YPG, and that she had been trained by them as a special intelligence officer in Syria, entering Turkey through Afrin (northern Syria).

Ahlam Albashir has been working at a textile workshop with several female workers.

Some of them were also detained. 

It was reported that two human traffickers who are suspected to have been trying to bring the suspect to Bulgaria were also detained.

Above: Ahlam Albashir

Jiyan Tosun, a lawyer and member of the Human Rights Association, was accused by Adem Taşkaya, a politician of the far-right Victory Party, of having planted the bomb by order of the PKK.

Above: Logo of the Turkish Human Rights Association (İnsan Hakları Derneği)

Above: Adem Taşkaya

Above: Logo of the Victory Party

Following this she was threatened repeatedly and preferred to stay at a courthouse instead of returning home.

Above: Jiyan Tosun

Around an hour after the explosion took place, a broadcast ban was issued by the Istanbul Criminal Court for all visual and audio news and social networking sites related to the incident.

Only interviews with government officials are allowed to be reported.

Above: Palace of Justice, Istanbul, Turkey

CNN Türk and TRT then stopped reporting on the incident.

Above: Logo of the Turkish Radio and Television Corporation

Internet feeds throughout Turkey and access to social media platforms, such as Twitter, Instagram and YouTube, have been significantly decreased since the event.

Istanbul’s anti-terrorist office decided to suspend the rights of defense of suspects but also of Internet users who have shared “negative information” about the attack on social networks.

Above: Logo of US social media network Twitter

Ekrem İmamoğlu, the Mayor of Istanbul, inspected the bombing site.

Above: Mayor of Istanbul Ekrem İmamoğlu

Ekrem İmamoğlu is a Turkish businessman, building contractor and centre-left politician serving as the 32nd Mayor of Istanbul.

He was first elected with 4.1 million votes and won with a margin of 13,000 votes against his Justice and Development Party (AKP) opponent in the March 2019 mayoral election as the joint Nation Alliance candidate of the Republican People’s Party (CHP) and the IYI (Good) Party, but served only from 17 April until 6 May 2019, when the election was annulled.

He was then reelected in a renewed election on 23 June 2019 by an even larger margin of 800,000 votes.

He had previously been the Mayor of Beylikdüzü, a western district of Istanbul, between 2014 and 2019.

İmamoğlu emerged as a dark horse candidate to be the Nation Alliance’s joint candidate for Istanbul Mayor, overtaking more prominent contenders, such as Muharrem Ince, the CHP’s 2018 presidential candidate.

On the eve of the elections, İmamoğlu gained a narrow lead in the mayoral race, with initial results showing his lead to be around 23,000 votes.

His lead was eventually cut to 13,729 after a series of recounts backed by the government.

İmamoğlu was sworn in as Mayor of Istanbul on 17 April, following the conclusion of all recounts.

On 6 May 2019, the Supreme Electoral Council convened and voted to annul the results of the mayoral election.

Members of the Council accepted the AKP’s objection to the local election results in Istanbul, with seven members of the High Court voting in favour of calling a new election and four against.

The election board also cancelled İmamoğlu’s mayoral certificate until the renewed elections.

A new election took place on 23 June 2019 in which İmamoğlu was re-elected as the Mayor by a margin of approximately 800,000 votes.

He was sworn into office on 27 June 2019.

Because of the scale of his victory and popularity, he has been called a possible candidate for the Turkish presidency in the next elections.

Above: Istanbul, Turkey

Health Minister Fahrettin Koca said the victims were being treated in the hospitals nearby.

Above: Fahrettin Koca, Turkish Health Minister

Many political leaders expressed their condolences to the media, also setting forth that the event was a case of terrorism. 

Above: People hug at the scene of the explosion.

President Erdoğan released a statement, stating:

After the treacherous attack, our members of the police went to the scene, and our wounded were sent to the surrounding hospitals.

Efforts to take over Turkey and the Turkish nation through terrorism will reach their goal neither today nor in the future, the same way they failed yesterday.

Above: Flag of the President of Turkey –

The 16 stars represent 16 claimed historical Turkic empires.

It was designed in 1922 and adopted in 1925.

The leader of the Republican People’s Party (CHP) (Cumhuriyet Halk Partisi) Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu said immediately after the attack :

We must unite against all forms of terrorism.

We must raise a common voice against all forms of terrorism and we must condemn terrorism.

No matter where the terror comes from, whatever its source, 85 million people living in this country must be saying the same thing.

They must curse terrorism, those who commit it and those who support it.

When we do this, we will have a unity of heart, it will be better for us to embrace each other.

Above: Logo of the Cumhuriyet Halk Partisi

Above: Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu

The chairwoman of the Good Party (İYİ) Meral Akşener condemned the attack, stating:

“I strongly condemn this vile attack.

We would like those responsible to be caught as soon as possible.”

Above: Logo of the Good Party

Above: Meral Akşener

The Kurdish People’s Democratic Party (HDP) (Halkların Demokratik Partisi) expressed its “deep sorrow and grief over the explosion that has killed six of our fellow citizens and injured 81 others“, adding that:

Our grief and sorrow is great.

We wish God’s mercy to the citizens who lost their lives.”

The attack was also condemned by the imprisoned former chairman of the HDP Selahattin Demirtas.

Above: Logo of the People’s Democratic Party (Halkların Demokratik Partisi)

Above: Selahattin Demirtaş

(Demirtaş was the presidential candidate of the HDP in the 2014 presidential election, coming in 3rd place.

He led the HDP to gather 13.1% at the June 2015 parliamentary elections and 10.7% in the snap elections in November 2015, coming 4th in each election.

He has been imprisoned since 4 November 2016 and despite his imprisonment the HDP fielded Demirtaş as its candidate for the 2018 presidential elections, running his campaign from prison.

In a judgement given in December 2020, the European Court for Human Rights judged that, given “the timing of Demirtaş continued detention (coinciding with an important constitutional referendum and the presidential election)” and Turkey’s “systemic trend of “gagging” dissenting voices“, Demirtaş’s continued pre-trial detention’s political purpose had been “predominant“.

The criminal indictment against Demirtaş alleged that in a public statement on the 6 October, the HDP raised support for protests against claimed approach of the Turkish Government shows towards the Islamic State (IS) 13 September 2014 attack on Kobane (northern Syria).

Above: Kobani, Syria

The HDP was blamed for the Kobani protests (large-scale rallies by pro-YPG protestors in Turkey) in 2014, which resulted in the death of over 50 people despite the HDP having called for an investigation on the events leading to the deaths in Parliament, which was turned down by the incumbent Justice and Development Party (AKP) and the Nationalist Movement Party (MHP).

Above: Logo of the Justice and Development Party (Adalet ve Kalkınma Partisi)

Above: Logo of the Nationalist Movement Party (Milliyetçi Hareket Partisi)

President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan blamed Demirtaş for provoking protests, and said that all Kurdish people are the citizens of the Republic of Turkey and no one can attempt to build a state for them.

Demirtaş’s repeatedly stated opposition to both PKK and TSK violence, calling killed Turkish soldiers “the children of this country, our children“, and declaring:

No one has anything to win from a civil war in Turkey.

Just look at Syria and Iraq.” 

Above: Military situation in September 2021

(pink) Syrian Arab Republic / (orange) Syrian Arab Republic and Rojava / (yellow) Rojava / (green) Syrian Interim Government and Turkish occupation / (white) Syrian Salvation Government / (blue) Revolutionary Commando Army and American occupation / (purple) Opposition groups in reconciliation / (grey) Islamic State

Above: Flag of Iraq

Demirtaş’ prosecution also used wiretaps as evidence to show relation with the Democratic Society Congress (DTK), which the prosecution views as a part of the PKK.

Above: Logo of the Democratic Society Congress (Demokratik Toplum Kongresi / Kongreya Civaka Demokratîk)

Since 4 November 2016 he is detained in prison in Edirne, a Turkish border town near Greece and Bulgaria, far away from Diyarbakir in southeastern Turkey, where his family lives.

His wife visits him once a week.

Above: Selimiye Mosque and statue of its architect Mimar Koca Sinan, Edirne, Turkey

His cellmate was for years fellow HDP politician Abdullah Zeydan who was released in January 2022.

Above: Abdullah Zeydan

In March 2022, the arrested mayor of Diyarbakir Adnan Selçuk Mızraklı became his new cellmate.)

Above: Adnan Selçuk Mizrakli

The Turkish Football Federation (TFF) announced that the Süper Lig match at Vodafone Park between Beşiktaş and Antalyaspor was postponed due to the bombing.

Several football clubs offered their condolences.

Above: Turkish Football Federation crest

Above: Vodafone Park, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, Turkey

Above: Beşiktaş logo

A suspect is in custody related to an explosion that killed at least six people and injured at least 81 others in Istanbul on Sunday, Turkey’s Interior Ministry said early Monday.

Above: Members of a forensic team work at the bomb site.

The incident has been deemed a terrorist attack, Turkish Vice President Fuat Oktay said, according to state news agency Anadolu.

We consider it to be a terrorist act as a result of an attacker, whom we consider to be a woman, detonating the bomb.”, Oktay told reporters.

Above: Turkish Vice-President Fuat Oktay

Turkish officials believe Kurdish separatists from the Kurdistan Worker’s Party (PKK) and the Democratic Union Party (PYD) were most likely behind the deadly suspected bomb attack, the country’s Interior Minister, Suleyman Soylu, told reporters Monday.

It is PKK/PYD terrorist organization according to our preliminary findings.”, Soylu said in a press conference at the scene of Sunday’s attack on Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul.

Soylu did not elaborate or provide details of how investigators had reached this conclusion.

A little while ago the person who left the bomb was taken under custody by teams of Istanbul Police Department.

Before their arrest 21 more people were also taken under custody,” the Minister said.

The face of terrorism is bitter, but we will continue this struggle to the end, whatever the cost is.

Above: Turkish Interior Minister Suleyman Soylu

CCTV footage shows a woman sitting on a bench for more than 40 minutes and then getting up one or two minutes before the explosion, leaving a bag or plastic bag behind, according to Turkish Justice Minister Bekir Bozdağ.

Above: Turkish Justice Minister Bekir Bozdağ

Bozdağ, who made the comments in an interview with privately owned A Haber news channel, said Turkish security forces believe the woman is the suspect.

Officials are investigating her.

There are two possibilities.

Either that bag or plastic bag has a mechanism in it, it explodes on its own or someone detonates it from afar.

All of these are currently under investigation.” he added.

The name of the woman is unknown.”, he said.

All the recordings and data about the woman are being analyzed.

Istanbul Governor Ali Yerlikaya said.

We wish God’s mercy on those who lost their lives and a speedy recovery to the injured.”

Above: Istanbul provincial governor Ali Yerikaya

The six people killed include Yusuf Meydan, a member of Turkey’s Ministry of Family and Social Services, and his daughter Ecrin, according to Derya Yanık, the Minister of the agency.

Above: Yusuf Meydan and daughter Ecran

Soylu, the Interior Minister, said Monday that 50 of the 81 people injured have been discharged from the hospital, with 31 people still being treated.

Turkey’s conflict with Kurdish separatist groups has spanned four decades and claimed tens of thousands of lives.

The PKK has been designated a terrorist organization by Turkey, the United States and the European Union.

Above: Flag of Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK)

In particular, the insincerity of our so-called allies who seem friendly to us, who either hide terrorists in their own country, or feeds terrorists in the areas they occupy and send them money from their own senates, is obvious.”, Soylu said.

We will give them a response in the near future, to those who caused us this pain in Beyoglu Istiklal Street so they experience more and more pain.”, Soylu said.

 

Witness Tariq Keblaoui said he was shopping on Istiklal Street when the explosion happened about 10 meters (32.8 feet) ahead of him.

People were scattering immediately.”, said Keblaoui, a Lebanese-based journalist who was on his last day of vacation in the city.

Very shortly after, I could see how many injured were on the ground.”, Keblaoui told CNN.

He says he saw dead bodies and victims who were seriously injured.

There was a man in the store bleeding from his ears and his legs, and his friends were crying near him.”, Keblaoui said.

Istiklal Street was packed with visitors when the blast happened Sunday afternoon, he said.

It went very quickly from a very peaceful Sunday with a very crowded street full of tourists to being what looked like the aftermath of a war zone.”, Keblaoui said.

Above: Tariq Keblaoui

News of the explosion led to a torrent of condolences from around the world.

Above: (in blue) Countries thanked by the Turkish President for expressing their condolences and support

French President Emmanuel Macron, whose own country suffered a deadly terror attack exactly seven years earlier, shared his sympathies for the Turkish people.

On this day so symbolic for our nation, while we think of the victims who fell on 13 November 2015, the Turkish people are struck by an attack in their heart, Istanbul.” Macron tweeted.

To the Turks:

We share your pain.

We stand with you in the fight against terrorism.”

Above: French President Emmanuel Macron

European Council President Charles Michel shared his condolences after Sunday’s deadly blast.

Horrific news from Istanbul tonight,” he said.

All our thoughts are with those currently responding and the people of Türkiye at this very distressing time.”

Above: European Council President Charles Michel

NATO Secretary General Jens Stoltenberg tweeted his “deepest condolences” to the Turkish people, adding that NATO “stands in solidarity with our ally” Turkey.

Above: NATO Secretary General Jens Stoltenberg

The United States “strongly condemns the act of violence that took place today in Istanbul.”, White House Press Secretary Karine Jean-Pierre said Sunday.

Our thoughts are with those who were injured and our deepest condolences go to those who lost loved ones.”

Above: White House Press Secretary Karine Jean-Pierre

The condolences offered by the US Embassy in Turkey were rejected by the Turkish Interior Minister Süleyman Soylu, who said in a televised interview on 14 November 2022 that:

We do not accept the condolences of the US Ambassador.

We reject them.”

Above: Jeffry L. Flake, United States Ambassador to Turkey

Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky tweeted of his “deep sadness” at the news of the blast.

I offer my condolences to the families of those who lost their lives and wish a speedy recovery to the injured.”, Zelensky said.

The pain of the friendly Turkish people is our pain.

Above: President of Ukraine Volodymyr Zelenskyy

A day after the incident the avenue was decorated with 1,200 Turkish flags as a way of remembering the victims of the bombing.

Most tree benches on İstiklal Avenue were removed.

Above: Memorial point after the 13 November 2022 bombing

No group has claimed responsibility, but Turkish authorities announced that Kurdish separatists were behind the attack implicating the PKK and the Syrian Kurdish Democratic Union Party (PYD).

Turkey’s Interior Minister, Süleyman Soylu, announced the arrest of the bomber and 46 others. 

Above: Captain Louis Renault (Claude Rains) tells his officer to “Round up the usual suspects.” as Rick Blaine (Humphrey Bogart), Ilsa Lund (Ingrid Bergman) and Victor Laszlo (Paul Henreid) look on. – Casablanca (1942)

Turkey’s PKK denied any role in the attack, as did the Syrian Democratic Forces (SDF), which accused the Turkish government of creating a pretext for a new ground attack on Syria.

Above: Flag of the Syrian Democratic Forces

During the late 20th and early 21st century, Islamist terrorist groups including al-Qaeda and ISIS carried out many attacks in Istanbul. 

Above: Flag of Al-Qaeda

Kurdish nationalist terrorist groups – including the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK) and the Kurdistan Freedom Hawks (TAK) – did likewise.

Above: Flag of the Kurdistan Freedom Hawks

Islamic State carried out a series of attacks during the mid-2010s.

On 11 May 2013, two car bombs exploded in the town of Reyhanli, Hatay Province, Turkey, close to the busiest land border post (Bab al-Hawa border crossing) with Syria.

51 people were killed and 140 injured in the attack, the deadliest single act of terrorism to occur on Turkish soil up until then — to be surpassed by the 10 October 2015 Ankara bombings with 102 deaths.

The responsibility for the attack is as yet unclear:

Politicians, authorities and the media have named at least six possibilities. 

Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant (ISIL) as late as September 2013, at the occasion of a threat to the Turkish government, suddenly claimed the 11 May 2013 attack.

In response to the attacks, the Turkish government sent air and ground forces to increase the already heavy military presence in the area.

Above: Reyhanli, Hatay Province, Turkey

Around 30 September 2013, according to English-language newspaper/website Today’s Zaman (2007 – 2016):

A statement attributed to ISIL” threatened Turkey with a series of suicide attacks in Istanbul and Ankara unless Turkey would reopen its Syrian border crossings at Bab al-Hawa and Bab al-Salameh before 7 October.

On 20 March 2014, three foreigners emerging from a taxi opened fire with an AK-47 and lobbed a hand grenade, killing a soldier and a policeman who were conducting routine checks on the Ulukisla–Adana Expressway, and injuring four soldiers.

The attackers were wounded in return fire but got away.

Two of the attackers were apprehended at Eminlik village, where villagers, thinking they were wounded Syrians, took them to the local medical clinic.

Kosovan officials confirmed that the attackers were linked to al-Qaeda.

Some Turkish media preferred the scenario that they were from ISIL.

Above: Eminlik, Tarsus District, Mersin Province, Turkey

On 6 January 2015, a bomb is detonated in Istanbul’s Sultanahmet Square.

One police officer was killed, another officer was injured.

Above: Obelisk of Theodosius, Sultanahmet Square, Istanbul, Turkey

After ISIL, in March 2014, had threatened to attack the tomb of Suleyman Shah (1166 – 1227), the grandfather of Osman I (1254 – 1299), the founder of the Ottoman Empire.

The tomb was located in northern Syria.

Above: Qal’at Ja’bar Castle in Syria, as it is surrounded since 1973 by the waters of Lake Assad.

Previously, this was a fortified hilltop overlooking the Euphrates Valley.

According to legend, Suleyman Shah in 1236 drowned in the Euphrates near this castle and was buried by it.

With the creation of this lake in 1973 the tomb was relocated, 85 km (53 mi) northward on the Euphrates River, 27 km (17 miles) from the Turkish border.

On 21 February 2015, Turkey decided to evacuate the tomb site, with a military convoy of hundred armored vehicles and 570 troops, and removing it, some 27 km northward, still in Syria, but now only 200 meters from the Turkish border.

Above: View of the building complex of the Tomb of Suleyman Shah (its second location, 1973 – February 2015), seen from the Euphrates River

On 5 June 2015, just 48 hours before the June 2015 General Election, two separate bombs exploded at an electoral rally in Diyarbakır held by the pro-Kurdish Peoples’ Democratic Party (HDP).

Above: Diyarbakir, Diyarbakir Province, Turkey

Four were killed and dozens were injured.

Suspicions as for the perpetrators lie on ISIL and on some ISIL-linked terrorist cell named the ‘Dokumacilar‘ (Weavers).

Above: Lisa Calan, a Kurdish film director who lost both her legs in the bombing

On 20 July 2015, the municipal cultural center in Suruç in the southeastern province of Sanliurfa was bombed. 34 people, mostly university-aged students planning to reconstruct the Syrian border town of Kobani, were killed and more than 100 people were injured.

ISIL claimed the attack a couple of days later.

According to journalist Serkan Demirtas, this attack could be considered as a declaration of war by ISIL on Turkey.

Above: After the Suruç bombing, forensic science experts in scene of crime, Suruç, Şanlıurfa Province, Turkey

The Ceylanpınar incident (22 – 24 July 2015) saw the killing of two policemen in Ceylanpinar, Turkey, which led to the resumption of the Kurdish – Turkish conflict.

The attack was used by the AKP government as a casus belli to end the otherwise largely successful 2013 – 2015 solution process and resume its war against the PKK.

As the AKP had failed to win a majority in the June 2015 Turkish General Election the month before, and soon after the resumption of hostilities announced the November 2015 Turkish snap general election, analysts believe that the Ceylanpınar killings and return to war have been used to increase Turkish nationalist fervor and favoured the ruling party taking back control over the Turkish Parliament.

Other motives have also been advanced, with the Syrian War encouraging extremist parties from both sides to undermine peace efforts by increasing nationalism and readiness for war.

Above: Ceylanpinar, Şanlıurfa Province, Turkey

On 23 July 2015 at 13:30, five gunmen, identified by the Turkish military as ISIL fighters, attacked a Turkish border outpost in the border town of Elbeyli, Kilis Province, killing Turkish soldier Yalçın Nane and wounding five.

In reaction, Turkish forces pursued the militants into Syria,

Turkish tanks and artillery shelled ISIL militants in northern Syria, killing at least one militant and obliterating a number of ISIL vehicles.

Turkish tanks also bombarded a small (abandoned) Syrian village north of Azaz, Aleppo, in which the ISIL militants were thought to be taking refuge, and killed or wounded several of the ISIL militants who were trying to take cover there.

Around 7 pm on 23 July, reports stated that 100 ISIL militants had been killed, but those reports were criticized by anti-government newspapers.

The Turkish Armed Forces later stated that all five ISIL militants who had attacked the Turkish army in Elbeyli had been killed.

Above: Seal of the Turkish Armed Forces

On 10 October 2015 at 10:04, in Ankara, the capital city of Turkey, two bombs were detonated outside Ankara Central Railway Station.

With a death toll of 109 civilians, the attack surpassed the 2013 Reyhanli bombings as the deadliest terror attack in Turkish history.

Another 500 people were injured.

Above: “Democracy” memorial in front of Ankara Central Railway Station

Censorship monitoring group Turkey Blocks identified nationwide slowing of social media services in the aftermath of the blasts, described by rights group Human Rights Watch as an “extrajudicial” measure to restrict independent media coverage of the incident.

The bombs appeared to target a “Labour, Peace and Democracy” rally organised by the Confederation of Progressive Trade Unions of Turkey (DİSK), the Union of Chambers of Turkish Engineers and Architects (TMMOB), the Peoples’ Democratic Party (HDP), the Turkish Medical Association (TTB) and the Confederation of Public Workers’ Unions (KESK).

Above: Logo of DİSK, the confederation of revolutionary workers’ unions (Devrimci İşçi Sendikaları Konfederasyonu)

Above: Logo of the Union of Chambers of Turkish Engineers and Architects

Above: Logo of the Confederation of Public Employees’ Unions (Kamu Emekçileri Sendikaları Konfederasyonu)

The peace march was held to protest against the growing conflict between the Turkish Armed Forces and the PKK.

The incident occurred 21 days before the scheduled 1 November General Election.

The governing AKP, the main opposition CHP and the opposition MHP condemned the attack and called it an attempt to cause division within Turkey.

CHP and MHP leaders heavily criticized the government for the security failure, whereas HDP directly blamed the AKP government for the bombings.

Various political parties ended up cancelling their election campaigns while three days of national mourning were declared by Prime Minister Ahmet Davutoğlu.

Above: Ahmet Davutoğlu (Turkish Prime Minister: 2014 – 2016)

No organization has ever claimed responsibility for the attack.

The Ankara Attorney General stated that they were investigating the possibility of two cases of suicide bombings.

On 19 October, one of the two suicide bombers was officially identified as the younger brother of the perpetrator of the Suruç bombing.

Both brothers had suspected links to ISIL and the ISIL-affiliated Dokumacilar group.

Above: 2015 Ankara bombing: Victims’ names

On 8 January 2016, Turkish forces at Iraq’s Bashiq camp killed 17 ISIL militants when the group attacked the camp with rocket fire and assault rifles .

This was the third attack by ISIL on the Turkish base.

Turkey has been training an armed anti-ISIL Sunni group in the camp.

Above: Bashiqa, Iraq

On 12 January 2016, an ISIL suicide bomber committed the Istanbul bombings in Istanbul’s historic Sultanahmet Square, killing 12 people.

All of the victims killed were foreign citizens (11 Germans, 1 Peruvian).

In response to the bombing, the Turkish Army commenced tank and artillery strikes on ISIL positions in Syria and Iraq.

Turkish authorities estimate that these 48 hours of shelling killed nearly 200 ISIL fighters.

Above: Flowers and flags of Turkey and Germany near Obelisk of Theodosius, Istanbul, Turkey, January 2016

On 19 March 2016, a second ISIL suicide bombing took place in Istanbul’s Beyoğlu district.

The attack killed four and wounded 36 people.

On 22 March 2016, the Turkish Interior Minister said that the bomber had links with ISIL.

Above: Demirören Shopping Mall in Istiklal Avenue, Beyoğlu, İstanbul, near which the bombing took place

Since the 2016 Turkish coup attempt and the purges that followed, political discourse, media, public speech as well as academic and judiciary voices are heavily monitored, with nearly no possible opposition to governmental discourse.

On 15 July 2016, a faction within the Turkish Armed Forces, organized as the Peace at Home Council, attempted a coup d’état against state institutions, including the government and President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan. 

They attempted to seize control of several places in Ankara, Istanbul, Marmaris and elsewhere, such as the Asian side entrance of the Bosphorus Bridge, but failed to do so after forces loyal to the state defeated them.

Above: 15 July Martyrs’ Monument at the Presidential Complex, Ankara, Turkey

The Council cited an erosion of secularism, elimination of democratic rule, disregard for human rights, and Turkey’s loss of credibility in the international arena as reasons for the coup.

The government said the coup leaders were linked to the Gülen movement, which is designated as a terrorist organization by the Republic of Turkey and led by Fethullah Gülen, a Turkish businessman and scholar who lives in Pennsylvania.

The Turkish government alleged that Gülen was behind the coup (which Gülen denied) and that the US was harboring him.

Above: Fethullah Gülen condemned the coup attempt and denied any role in it.

The Gülen movement (Gülen hareketi), referred to by its participants as Hizmet (“service“) or Cemaat (“community“) and since 2016 by the Government of Turkey as FETÖ (“Fethullah Terrorist Organization“/ Fethullahçı Terör Örgütü), is an Islamist fraternal fmovement led by Fethullah Gülen, a Muslim preacher who has lived in the US since 1999.

The movement is designated as a terrorist organization by Turkey, Pakistan, Northern Cyprus and the Gulf Cooperation Council.

However, the Gülen movement is not recognized as a terrorist organization by the EU, the US, the UK, Finland and Sweden.

Owing to the outlawed status of the Gülen movement in Turkey, some observers refer to the movement’s volunteers who are Turkish Muslims as effectively a subsect of Sunni Islam.

A US-based umbrella foundation which is affiliated with the movement is the Alliance for Shared Values.

The movement has attracted supporters and drawn the attention of critics in Turkey, Central Asia, and other parts of the world.

It is active in education and operates private schools and universities in over 180 countries.

It has initiated forums for interfaith dialogue.

It has substantial investments in media, finance and health clinics.

Despite its teachings which are stated conservative in Turkey, some have praised the movement as a pacifist, modern-oriented version of Islam, and an alternative to more extreme schools of Islam.

But it has also been reported of having a “cultish hierarchy” and of being a secretive Islamic sect.

The Gülen movement is a former ally of the AKP.

When the AKP came to power  in 2002 the two formed, despite their differences, a tactical alliance against military tutelage and the Turkish secular elite.

It was through this alliance that the AKP had accomplished an unprecedented feat in Turkish republican history by securing national electoral victories sufficient to form three consecutive majority governments in 2002, 2007 and 2011.

The Gülen movement gained influence on the Turkish police force and the judiciary during its alliance with conservative President Erdoğan, which saw hundreds of Gülen supporters appointed to positions within the Turkish government.

With only slight exaggeration, the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) as well as the government it has led could be termed a coalition of religious orders.

The Gülen movement stayed away from electoral politics, focusing instead on increasing its presence in the state bureaucracy.

The Hizmet movement’s stated success in this regard would initially make it Erdoğan’s main partner, but also his eventual nemesis.

Once the old establishment was defeated, disagreements emerged between the AKP and the Gülen movement.

The first breaking point was the MIT Crisis of February 2012, it was also interpreted as a power struggle between pro-Gülen police and judiciary and the AKP.

Above: Seal of the Turkish National Intelligence Organization

In March 2011, seven Turkish journalists were arrested, including Amet Şık, who had been writing a book, Imamin Ordusu (The Imam’s Army), which states that the Gülen movement has infiltrated the country’s security forces (including the MIT).

As Şık was taken into police custody, he shouted:

Whoever touches the movement gets burned!

Upon his arrest, drafts of the book were confiscated and its possession was banned.

In a reply, Abdullah Bozkurt, from the Gülen movement newspaper Today’s Zaman, said Ahmet Şık was not being an investigative journalist conducting “independent research“, but was hatching “a plot designed and put into action by the terrorist network itself“.

After the 2013 corruption investigations in Turkey into stated corrupt practices by several bureaucrats, ministers, mayors, and family members of the ruling AKP of Turkey was uncovered, President Erdoğan blamed the movement for initiating the investigations as a result of a break in previously friendly relations.

The 2013 corruption scandal in Turkey (or the 17-25 December Corruption and Bribery Operation) was a criminal investigation that involved several key people in the Turkish government.

All of the 52 people detained on 17 December were connected in various ways with the ruling AKP.

Prosecutors accused 14 people – including Suleyman Aslan (the director of state-owned Halkbank), Iranian businessman Reza Zarrab, and several family members of cabinet ministers – of bribery, corruption, fraud, money laundering and gold smuggling.

A

t the heart of the scandal was an alleged “gas for gold” scheme with Iran involving Aslan, who had US$4.5 million in cash stored in shoeboxes in his home, and Zarrab, who was involved in about US$9.6 billion of gold trading in 2012.

Both men were arrested.

The scheme started after Turkish government officials found a loophole in the US sanctions against Iran that allowed them to access Iranian oil and gas.

The Turks exported some US$13 billion of gold to Iran directly, or through the United Arab Emirates (UAE), between March 2012 and July 2013.

Above: Flag of the UAE

In return, the Turks received Iranian natural gas and oil.

The transactions were carried out through the Turkish state-owned bank, Halkbank.

In January 2013, the Obama administration decided to close this loophole but instead of immediately charging Halkbank, the US government allowed its gold trading activities to continue until July 2013, because Turkey was an important ally regarding the American-led intervention in the Syrian Civil War and the US had been working on a nuclear deal with Iran.

Above: Flag of Iran

President Erdoğan said Gülen attempted to overthrow the Turkish government through a judicial coup by the use of corruption investigations and seized the group-owned newspaper (Zaman (“time“) — one of the most circulated newspapers in Turkey before the seizure) and several companies that have ties with the group.

Events surrounding the coup attempt and the purges in its aftermath reflect a complex power struggle between Islamist elites in Turkey.

During the coup attempt, over 300 people were killed and more than 2,100 were injured.

Many government buildings, including the Turkish Parliament and the Presidential Palace, were bombed from the air. 

Mass arrests followed, with at least 40,000 detained, including at least 10,000 soldiers and, for reasons that remain unclear, 2,745 judges. 

15,000 education staff were also suspended and the licenses of 21,000 teachers working at private institutions were revoked after the government stated they were loyal to Gülen.

More than 77,000 people have been arrested and over 160,000 fired from their jobs, on reports of connections to Gülen.

In March 2017, Germany’s intelligence chief said Germany was unconvinced by Erdoğan’s statement that Gülen was behind the failed coup attempt.

The same month, the British Parliament’s Foreign Affairs Select Committee said some Gulenists were involved in the coup d’état attempt but found no hard evidence that Fethullah Gülen masterminded the failed coup and found no evidence to justify the UK designating the Gülen movement as aterrorist organization“.

Above: Citizens protesting the coup attempt in Kizilay Square, Ankara, Turkey

Turkey is heading toward its 2023 Turkish General Election, which is expected to be a major challenge for the AKP party due to economic slow down and very high inflation.

In the past decade, Erdoğan and the AKP government used anti-PKK, security, martial rhetoric and external operations to raise Turkish nationalist votes before elections.

In between, security concerns and anti-terrorism laws have been used to repress and neutralize elected oppositions.

Opposition HDP elected officials are systematically probed, arrested, dismissed based on tenuous accusations, to be then replaced by AKP loyalists.

Accusation by association due to alliances with HDP party officials (and implied links to PKK terrorism) is also used against other opposition leaders. 

CHP Mayor of Istanbul Ekrem İmamoğlu is indicted for such political alliance, with persecutors calling to evict him from politics and the 2023 Turkish General Election.

The votes of the persecuted HDP party, a pro-Kurdish party accused by Erdoğan and the AKP to be linked with the PKK, are necessary to any opposition bloc wanting to conquer power.

More recently, and since May 2022, Recep Tayyip Erdoğan and his government have called for new external ground operations toward autonomous territories in Syria and ramped up attacks on the area.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Turkish voters need to look first at what the candidates have achieved and only then at what the candidates have promised.

Turkish people are avid media consumers, but democracy only works when it is accompanied by a free press, which is far harder than simply reporting the news allowed by the government and slanting its message in favour of the government.

Turkey needs investigative journalism which uncovers facts and wrongdoing without fear of being labelled traitorous or arrested for voicing criticism of the government.

Turkey needs explanatory journalism that describes the bigger picture, providing background information and explanation.

Both investigative and explanatory journalism are difficult and expensive and demand skill on the part of both the news makers and the news readers.

Neither are well served by the current news formats or the current political climate.

If Turks were the last of the Ottoman ethnicities to get their own nation-states, the Kurds arrived at history’s party too late.

There are anywhere between 28 and 35 million Kurds, inhabiting a region that straddles Turkey, Iran, Iraq and Syria, with smaller populations elsewhere, including Armenia, Azerbaijan and Lebanon.

This geographic diversity suggests that Kurdish identity is shaped by a variety of competing forces and that ethnic solidarity with fellow Kurds across borders is often overshadowed by the concerns and politics in which Kurds actually find themselves.

In Turkey, Kurds form a majority in 15 provinces in the southeast and east of the country, with the metropolitan city of Diyarbakir being the unofficial capital of the Kurdish region.

There is also a large diaspora both in Western Europe and in coastal cities like Adana and Izmir.

Istanbul, on the diametrically opposite side of the country from Diyarbakir, is almost certainly the largest Kurdish city in the world in the way that New York City is home to the largest number of Jews.

The CIA Fact Book estimates that Kurds make up 18% of Turkey’s population.

Above: Flag of Kurdistan

It is fair to say that much of the rest of Turkey looks at Kurdish society through a glass darkly and sees Kurdish tribal organization as imposing primitive loyalties and archaic kinship relations.

More useful would be to think of tribes as alliances that negotiate with the political mainstream.

Likewise, radical Kurdish politics draws from inequalities within Kurdish society and not simply from the denial of Kurdish identity.

For all its claims to be a melting pot of civilization and a mosaic of different cultures, Turkey has been continually blindsided by the problem of accommodating its own ethnic diversity.

A principal reason lies in the foundation of the Turkish Republic and the perceived need to impose a new national identity on a war-stricken nation.

Above: Flag of Turkey

Kurds posed an obvious challenge.

First, because they formed a distinct and regionally concentrated linguistic group that was not Turkish, but also because they were overwhelmingly Muslim and therefore not an “anomalous minority” as defined by the Treaty of Lausanne.

Above: Palais de Rumine, Lausanne, Canton Vaud, Switzerland – where the Treaty of Lausanne was signed on 24 July 1923, delimiting the boundaries of Greece, Bulgaria and Turkey.

Though Kurds were readily recruited to fight the War of Independence, commanders of Kurdish irregulars felt betrayed by the very secular, highly centralized and very Turkish character of the new state.

Above: Images of the Turkish War of Independence (1919 – 1923)

There was a major uprising in 1925, which drew resentment against the abolition of the Caliphate (632 – 1924) as much as it did from a nascent Kurdish nationalism.

The caliphate system was abolished in Turkey in 1924 during the secularization of Turkey as part of Atatürk’s reforms.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881 – 1938)

That rebellion became reason and pretext to reinforce the authoritarian character of the regime in the rest of Turkey.

From the beginning of the Republic, the Kurdish issue, and specifically fear of Kurdish secession, has become inextricably linked to the problems of Turkish democratization and of the reliance on forms of repression to keep society under control.

Turkish officialdom has historically pursued a policy of assimilation, using both carrot and stick.

Above: (in orange) Kurdistan of Turkey

What lies at the heart of Turkey’s Kurdish problem?

Even to ask this question gets on some Turkish nerves.

A still widely-held view is that the Kurdish problem is simply one of terrorism or of troublemakers trying to scratch an itch where none exists.

The issue centers on the guerilla campaign conducted by the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK).

The conflict is estimated to have cost over 40,000 lives, including civilians, PKK members and Turkish soldiers.

The PKK was the product of a vicious process of natural selection after all other channels of dissent were eliminated.

The events of 9/11 in America created some sympathy for Turkey’s own longstanding fight with terrorism.

The harsh measures adopted by Western states to fight al-Qaeda appeared to confirm a long-cherished Turkish maxim:

National security requires the sacrifice of liberties.

Turkish concern about its own territorial integrity translates into a concern that its neighbours not set a dangerous example by allowing political autonomy for their own Kurdish populations.

Turks ask themselves why the US, so determined to fight terrorism, tolerates the existence of Kurdish bases.

There is a widely-held belief in Turkey that Western powers use Kurdish insurrection to keep Turkey weak.

These views persist despite an agreement under which the Pentagon makes real-time intelligence available to the Turkish military in order to track PKK fighters infiltrating into Turkey.

Washington also committed itself to providing Turkish forces with drones and other anti-insurgency hardware.

Turkish politicians often portray PKK attacks not as part of some intractable domestic problems but as “contracted” by outside powers.

At the same time they are only too aware that the Kurdish issue affects Turkish ambitions to play the role of a stabilizing power in the Middle East.

Peace at home, peace in the world” was Atatürk’s much-quoted mission statement of Turkish foreign policy.

That vision will flounder if Turkey cannot come to terms with a problem in its own backyard.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

Is there a Kurdish solution?

What do Kurds in Turkey want?

Full cultural rights?

A process of truth and reconcilation?

Devolution?

Simply the prospect of prosperity?

Hardened Turkish nationalists believe that any concession to Kurdish identity will lead to policial secession.

Having defined the fight with the PKK for so long as a struggle against separatism, they take for granted that separatism must be the enemy.

On the other hand, not even the PKK openly calls for an independent state.

They have declared its only ambition is to democratize Turkish society.

Did the PKK bomb Istanbul on Sunday?

They say they didn’t.

Is anyone surprised that they would nonetheless be blamed?

No one.

For the PKK is easy to blame, easy to hate, considering their past violence.

But could the PKK also be convenient for creating a perceived threat that only the powers-that-be can save us from?

Rahm Israel Emanuel is an American politician and diplomat who is the current US Ambassador to Japan.

A member of the Democratic Party, he previously served two terms as the 55th Mayor of Chicago (2011 – 2019) and the 23rd White House Chief of Staff (2009 – 2010), and served three terms in the US House of Representatives, representing Illinois (2003 – 2009).

Above: US Ambassador Rahm Emanuel

On his #ChiStories podcast of 19 October 2018, he tweeted:

“My guest on #ChiStories podcast is @BeschlossDC (Michael Beschloss), whose newest book is Presidents of War.

Go behind the phrase “Never let a crisis go to waste” as we dissect how US Presidents approached their role as Commander-in-Chief in times of war.”

According to Freakonomics blog (http://www.freakonomics.com) commentator TJ Hessmon:

“The “political” use of the phrase “Never let a good crisis go to waste.” is based upon the points made in Saul Alinsky’s Rules for Radicals, page 89, in the section marked “Communication“:

In the arena of action, a threat or a crisis becomes almost a precondition to communication.”

Taking advantage of any crisis whether real or manufactured is a common tool used by those waging war.

When used in this way, crisis, and its extreme amplification as “thinking and acting as a group“, is no longer a tactic of protest but instead a tactic of ideological subversion, which is used to bring about totalitarian government control, via Socialism or Communism.

In other words, the leader forms groups along the lines of a crisis and uses that crisis to force the need for control.

If the crisis is allowed to continue (as we observed often during the last presidential administration) people will cry out to government, for relief from the result of the crisis, which can lead to property destruction and even loss of life and limb.

The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) is one example of how crisis (terrorism) was used to create a police state at American airports, when it was known that there are other more effective tactics used by other nations to avoid airliner incidents.”

I am reminded of the thinking of Niccolò Machiavelli (1469 – 1527):

A prince is tolerated when his service is seen to be indispensable.

Above: Italian writer (The Prince) Niccolò Machiavelli

I am not suggesting that the incumbent administration in Turkey was in any way responsible for bombings and coups that have taken place during its term in office, but I wonder how useful tragedies, such as Sunday’s Istanbul explosion, prove to be to justify tightening its grip on power.

If the press is to be believed – Terrorism only works thanks to the media. – one woman with a plastic bag of explosives has changed Turkish society forever.

Terrorists’ true weapon is not the bomb, but the fear triggered by the bomb.

The actual threat is relatively small, but the perceived threat is immense.

This balancing act is made possible by the news media.

Since 2001, terrorists have killed on average 50 people per year within the European Union.

By comparison, 80,000 EU citizens die each year in traffic accidents and 60,000 by suicide.

Above: Flag of the European Union

The risk of being killed by a terrorist is astronomically smaller than the risk of being killed by your own hand.

Paradoxically, the news makes it seem like it is the other way around.

Above: Bad news“, Luci Gutiérrez, New Yorker cartoon, 16 July 2018

A terrorist’s primary goal is not to kill people.

Their goals are strategic:

They are seeking political change.

They want people to pay attention to their demands:

Attention they receive in the form of news and the ensuing backlash.

For political scientist Martha Crenshaw at Stanford University, terrorists are entirely rational actors:

Terrorism is a logical choice when the power ratio of government to challenger is high.

Above: Seal of Stanford University, Stanford, California, USA

In other words, terrorists themselves are powerless.

The only halfway promising method of forcing political change is to sow fear and chaos.

And for that they need the news media.

Israeli historian Yuval Noah Harari has remarked:

Terrorists are masters of mind control.

They kill very few people, but nevertheless manage to terrify billions and rattle huge political structures, such as the EU and the US.

The theatre of terror cannot succeed without publicity.

Unfortunately, the media all too often provide this publicity for free.

It obsessively reports terror attacks and greatly inflates their danger, because reports on terrorism sell newspapers much better than reports on diabetes or air pollution.

Above: Yuval Noah Harari

The press focuses on the fear a bomb creates, not on the lives the bomb devastates, nor does it provide a meaningful context as to why someone would commit such a horrific act.

We will never know who the dead were and we can only speculate as to who they might have become.

We will never learn of the lives affected by the loss of those who are now mere memories.

We will never learn of the extent of the injuries that those struck down by the explosion and how their lives, physically and/or psychologically, have been transformed forever.

But you can’t live in fear.

You can’t let fear of dying keep you from living.

What is the point of living if you don’t feel alive?

I will return to Istanbul.

I will walk down Istiklal Avenue and shop once again.

All the bomber showed me was their ability to kill.

Anyone can destroy.

What the world needs is those who can build.

Let us build bridges not walls.

Let us make love not war.

Nothing to fear but fear itself.

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945) (US President: 1933 – 1945)

Swiss author and philosopher Rolf Dobelli explains it this way:

Above: Rolf Dobelli

Gersau is a village in the middle of Switzerland, idyllically situated on Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Lucerne):

A tiny picturesque place with 2,000 inhabitants – smaller than the Municipality I spring from in Canada (Brownsburg-Chatham) and larger than the Swiss hamlet of Landschlacht from whence the journey to Mürren begins.

For centuries Gersau was an independent republic.

The village wanted no part in the Swiss Federation and for 300 years it was given free rein.

Only when Napoleon invaded Switzerland in 1798 was its independence revoked.

When the French troops withdrew, the village redeclared independence – but this only lasted four years.

Today, Gersau is part of Switzerland.

Above: Gersau, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

Let’s try a thought experiment.

Imagine you are a Gersau villager and you want to regain independence.

You feel obliged by the long historic tradition of independence.

Maybe you feel that you have been unjustly treated by the rest of Switzerland.

What options do you have to make people listen to your demands?

You could gather like-minded compatriots and pass a resolution at a community meeting.

But nobody would take you seriously.

Certainly not outside the village.

You could write a blog – which would never be read.

You could employ a PR firm, but that, too, would come to nothing.

Or you could set off a bomb outside Parliament in Bern.

With a giant placard in the background – Free Gersau! – you would capture national and international attention within minutes.

Of course, everybody would condemn your behaviour in the strongest terms, but….

You would spark a debate.

Above: Bundeshaus (Federal Palace of Switzerland), Bern, Switzerland

Now imagine the press did not exist.

What then?

The bomb explodes.

Windows shatter.

Passers-by are injured.

The attack is discussed at the market and down the pub.

Outside Bern, however, interest would fizzle.

Next day the square outside Parliament would look the same as before.

You would have accomplished nothing.

Above: Bern, Switzerland

It strikes me as curious that the PKK are held responsible and yet they themselves are reluctant to claim responsibility.

For if the point of a terrorist attack is to garner attention than the PKK denial suggests to me that they are a convenient scapegoat to justify increased control by the powers-that-be.

From what little has been revealed about the explosion – as evidenced by the massive number of people arrested after the incident – is that it is unclear to the investigation who the real perpetrators are or what their motive might be.

Perhaps it is as suggested by Alfred Pennyworth (Michael Caine) in the movie The Dark Knight:

Some people simply want to watch the world burn.

Or it may be that the generators underlying this event are simply beyond our ken, because the processes that shape cultural, intellectual, economic, military, political and environment events are too invisible, too complex, too non-linear, too hard for our brains to digest.

Who can truly comprehend another person’s individual mind and the path that led them to where they are today?

Who can truly comprehend the mind of someone who would deliberately kill innocents or allow innocents to be killed?

I certainly don’t claim to do so.

Perhaps living far from public notice makes us less vulnerable?

Maybe.

But it was the lives of ordinary people that were the victims of forces beyond their ken and of a mindset beyond anyone’s comprehension.

All that they were, all that they might have been, erased by a threat seemingly out of Nowhere.

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Wednesday 5 January 2022

Let us return to Landschlacht / Münsterlingen and consider something else.

Each town across the globe searches for something to brag about, something that lends to itself a sense of worth, a sense of accomplishment, a reason for pride.

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Consider Landschlacht.

What makes it special?

I have mentioned its lake location and its old chapel.

I have shown half-timbered buildings.

In a previous post, I mentioned how street lights are extinguished after midnight resulting in a light-pollution-free starry night sky.

Above: Rotes Haus Restaurant, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Consider Münsterlingen.

What makes it special?

We may speak of its hospital and its psychiatric clinic, the Abbey and its ceremony of carrying a wooden head across the frozen Lake.

Above: Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Consider Brownsburg-Chatham, where I spent my childhood.

What makes it special?

We may talk of its being settled by American Loyalists and named after English Prime Minister William Pitt, 1st Earl of Chatham (1708 – 1778) and English Major George Brown.

Above: William Pitt the Elder (Prime Minister of Great Britain: 1766 – 1768)

We may speak of its farms and its explosives production.

Above: Brownsburg, Argenteuil County, Québec, Canada

But beyond superficialities such as these:

What makes a place unique is its people.

Landschlacht, Brownsburg and – yes, to folks outside Turkey – Eskişehir.

Beyond the Canton of Thurgau no one knows (or cares) where Landschlacht is.

Beyond Argenteuil County a person would be hard pressed to tell where in Canada is Brownsburg.

Tourist guides rarely mention Eskişehir. – I had not heard of the place before I received a job offer to work here.

But what makes these Nowhere places in the middle of Somewhere Else special are its people.

Certainly the world notices a place’s personalities, those rare individuals that have managed to attract attention to themselves.

I have mentioned some of Münsterlingen’s personalities above.

I mention now that Brownsburg-Chatham’s claim to fame is that it was home to the late Montréal Canadiens ice hockey defenseman Gilles Lupien (1954 – 2021).

Above: Gilles Lupien

In previous posts I have spoken of Eskişehir being better known for its universities, its meerschaum pipes, and that it was the place where Turkey’s first automobile, first aviation industry and the first NATO tactical air force HQ in Turkey occurred, more than any personalities the world beyond Turkey might have ever heard of.

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Turkey

Yet Brownsburg, Landschlacht and Eskişehir – places few folks beyond their borders know – are important to me for the people I have known therein.

Brownsburg-Chatham and the neighbouring municipalities of Grenville and Lachute are populated with the memories of those I have known and loved from my childhood and youth.

Landschlacht is still the home of my wife, the love and bane of my existence.

Because of her, a piece of my heart remains there.

Eskişehir is where I now work and live and the people with whom I regularly meet form the nucleus of the joy of life I presently enjoy.

When I think of Landschlacht, I invariably think of Canadian writer Stephen Leacock’s Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town, and I think of Landschlacht as a kind of Swiss Mariposa.

At least to me.

Above: Stephen Leacock (1869 – 1944)

“I don’t know whether you know Mariposa.

If not, it is of no consequence, for if you know Canada at all, you are probably well acquainted with a dozen towns just like it.

Above: Flag of Canada

There it lies in the sunlight, sloping up from the little lake that spreads out at the foot of the hillside on which the town is built.

Above: Orillia, Simcoe County, Ontario – Inspiration of Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town

There is a wharf beside the lake, and lying alongside of it a steamer that is tied to the wharf with two ropes of about the same size as they use on the Lusitania.

Above: RMS Lusitania (1904 – 1915)

The steamer goes nowhere in particular, for the lake is landlocked and there is no navigation for the Mariposa Belle except to “run trips” on the first of July and the Queen’s Birthday, and to take excursions of the Knights of Pythias and the Sons of Temperance to and from the Local Option Townships.

In point of geography the lake is called Lake Wissanotti and the river running out of it the Ossawippi, just as the main street of Mariposa is called Missinaba Street and the county Missinaba County.

But these names do not really matter.

Nobody uses them.

People simply speak of the “lake” and the “river” and the “main street“, much in the same way as they always call the Continental Hotel, “Pete Robinson’s” and the Pharmaceutical Hall, “Eliot’s Drug Store“.

But I suppose this is just the same in every one else’s town as in mine, so I need lay no stress on it.

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616) quote from Romeo and Juliet

The town, I say, has one broad street that runs up from the lake, commonly called the Main Street.

There is no doubt about its width.

When Mariposa was laid out there was none of that shortsightedness which is seen in the cramped dimensions of Wall Street and Piccadilly.

Above: Street sign, New York City, New York, USA

Above: Piccadilly Circus, London, England

Missinaba Street is so wide that if you were to roll Jeff Thorpe’s barber shop over on its face it wouldn’t reach half way across.

Up and down the Main Street are telegraph poles of cedar of colossal thickness, standing at a variety of angles and carrying rather more wires than are commonly seen at a transatlantic cable station.

On the Main Street itself are a number of buildings of extraordinary importance — Smith’s Hotel and the Continental and the Mariposa House, and the two banks (the Commercial and the Exchange), to say nothing of McCarthy’s Block (erected in 1878), and Glover’s Hardware Store with the Oddfellows’ Hall above it.

Then on the “cross” street that intersects Missinaba Street at the main corner there is the Post Office and the Fire Hall and the Young Men’s Christian Association and the office of the Mariposa Newspacket

In fact, to the eye of discernment a perfect jostle of public institutions comparable only to Threadneedle Street or Lower Broadway.

On all the side streets there are maple trees and broad sidewalks, trim gardens with upright calla lilies, houses with verandahs, which are here and there being replaced by residences with piazzas.

To the careless eye the scene on the Main Street of a summer afternoon is one of deep and unbroken peace.

The empty street sleeps in the sunshine.

There is a horse and buggy tied to the hitching post in front of Glover’s hardware store.

There is, usually and commonly, the burly figure of Mr. Smith, proprietor of Smith’s Hotel, standing in his chequered waistcoat on the steps of his hostelry, and perhaps, further up the street, Lawyer Macartney going for his afternoon mail, or the Rev. Mr. Drone, the Rural Dean of the Church of England Church, going home to get his fishing rod after a mothers’ auxiliary meeting.

But this quiet is mere appearance.

In reality, and to those who know it, the place is a perfect hive of activity.

Why, at Netley’s butcher shop (established in 1882) there are no less than four men working on the sausage machines in the basement.

At the Newspacket office there are as many more job-printing.

There is a long distance telephone with four distracting girls on high stools wearing steel caps and talking incessantly.

In the offices in McCarthy’s Block are dentists and lawyers with their coats off, ready to work at any moment.

And from the big factory down beside the lake where the railroad siding is, you may hear all through the hours of the summer afternoon the long-drawn music of the running saw.

Busy —

Well, I should think so!

Ask any of its inhabitants if Mariposa isn’t a busy, hustling, thriving town.

Ask Mullins, the manager of the Exchange Bank, who comes hustling over to his office from the Mariposa House every day at 10.30 and has scarcely time all morning to go out and take a drink with the manager of the Commercial.

Or ask —

Well, for the matter of that, ask any of them if they ever knew a more rushing go-ahead town than Mariposa.

Of course if you come to the place fresh from New York, you are deceived.

Your standard of vision is all astray.

You do think the place is quiet.

You do imagine that Mr. Smith is asleep merely because he closes his eyes as he stands.

But live in Mariposa for six months or a year and then you will begin to understand it better.

The buildings get higher and higher.

The Mariposa House grows more and more luxurious.

McCarthy’s Block towers to the sky.

The buses roar and hum to the station.

The trains shriek.

The traffic multiplies.

The people move faster and faster.

A dense crowd swirls to and fro in the Post Office and the Five and Ten Cent Store —

And amusements!

Well, now!

Lacrosse, baseball, excursions, dances, the Fireman’s Ball every winter and the Catholic picnic every summer; and music — the town band in the park every Wednesday evening, and the Oddfellows’ brass band on the street every other Friday, the Mariposa Quartette, the Salvation Army —

Why, after a few months’ residence you begin to realize that the place is a mere mad round of gaiety.”

Meet the local people, if you can, to get a sense of a place.

Any opportunity to see how the locals live provides a person with invaluable background.

It is within family circles that you really grasp people’s relationships with one another, their relationship to their government, and their relationship to the rest of the world.

The food they serve you is important in more ways than your observation of the kind of food it is.

How it is served is a clue to the people’s lifestyle, as is who is eating?

Do the people speak freely?

Where do they play?

What do they play?

How do they play?

What do they eat?

Where do they eat?

Picnic in the park.

Go to the grocery store.

Go to the outdoor markets.

Stop in at the bakery and the butcher shop.

Soak up local colour at the laundromats.

Check out the department stores.

Visit the speciality shops, the bazaars, the suqs, the flea markets.

Get your haircut.

Join the congregation.

Attend an event and observe the crowd.

Welcome chance meetings.

Encourage chance encounters.

Get lost.

Listen to people’s recommendations.

Go to the bookstore.

Buy local publications.

The more people you talk to, the better feel you get for the place, the more you will learn about it and the more you will know the place.

And this is the great sadness I have with travelling with others.

Your world is limited to the circle wherein you travel.

To borrow from W.H. Auden’s Funeral Blues:

They become your North, your South, your East and West,

The journey itself and the following rest,

Your noon, your midnight, your talk, your song


You thought you were travelling, but you were wrong.

Above: Wystan Hugh Auden (1907 – 1973)

The best I can do to give a sense of the places I have visited in the company of others is to write what I have learned in as personable a way as I can, minus the encounters with locals that might have lent the place a connected context to the lives of my readers.

No, truth be told, the wife and I are tourists.

We will get in our car, drive quickly to our chosen destination, and check into a hotel – the nucleus of our new universe.

I do not condemn tourism, but it is not an exposure to life but rather an escape from it.

We descend three flights of stairs laden with luggage.

Bags tossed in the back of the car, Google Maps itinerary in hand (most scenic route if possible), GPS programmed nonetheless.

We are off on another “adventure“.

She is the love of my life, the bane of my existence.

The journey will be Heaven.

The journey will be Hell.

Fasten your seatbelt.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Mortimer J. Adler and Charles van Doren, How to Read a Book / Saul D. Alinsky, Rules for Radicals / W. H. Auden, “Funeral Blues” / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Charles Dickens, Great Expectations / Charles Dickens, The Pickwick Papers / Charles Dickens, The Uncommercial Traveller / Rolf Dobelli, Stop Reading the News / Stephen J. Dubner, “Quotes Uncovered: Who Said No Crisis Should Go to Waste?“, http://www.freakonomics.com, 13 August 2009 /Andrew Finkel, Turkey: What Everyone Needs to Know / Mark Hertsgaard, The Eagle’s Shadow: Why America Fascinates and Infuriates the World / Stephen Leacock, Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town / Luke McKernan, “Walking with Charles Dickens“, http://www.lukemckernan.com / Ann Morgan, Reading the World / Kenny Rogers, “The Gambler” / Isil Sariyuce, Sophie Tanno and Holly Yan, “Suspect in custody in Istanbul blast that killed 6 and injured 81, officials say“, http://www.cnn.com, 13 November 2022 / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Louise Purwin Zobel, The Travel Writer’s Handbook

Saved by nostalgia

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 13 November 2022

Last week, one of my Complimentary Class discussions was on inventions.

What was life before these inventions?

What were the most important inventions?

Reflecting on today and imagining tomorrow.

I am not a modern Luddite, but I have always maintained that for every gain gotten from technology there is also an accompanying loss as well.

(The Luddites were a secret oath-based organization of English textile workers in the 19th century who formed a radical faction which destroyed textile machinery.

The group are believed to have taken their name from Ned Ludd, a legendary weaver supposedly from Anstey, near Leicester.

They protested against manufacturers who used machines in what they called “a fraudulent and deceitful manner” to get around standard labour practices.

Luddites feared that the time spent learning the skills of their craft would go to waste, as machines would replace their role in the industry.)

I am even willing to argue that even the invention of the wheel came with its losses.

Walking is an activity that requires openness, engagement and few expenses,

The wheel has evolved into the closed automobile, road rage and endless expense.

Above: An early wheel made of a solid piece of wood

I quote directly now from one of my favourite books from one of my favourite writers:

The new millennium arrived as a dialectic between secrecy and openness, between consolidation and dispersal of power, between privatization and public ownership, power and life.

Walking has ever been on the side of the latter.

On 15 February 2003, police estimated three quarters of a million took to the streets of London, though organizers thought two million a more accurate figure.

Above: London anti-war protest, 15 February 2003

50,000 walked in Glasgow, 100,000 in Dublin, 300,000 in Berlin, 3 million in Rome, 100,000 in Paris, 1.5 million in Barcelona and 2 million in Madrid.

South American demonstrations in Rio de Janeiro, Buenos Aires, Santiago and other cities took place that day.

Walkers gathered in Seoul, Tokyo, Tel Aviv, Baghdad, Karachi, Detroit, Cape Town, Calcutta, Istanbul, Montréal, Mexico City, New York, San Francisco, Sydney, Vancouver, Moscow, Tehran, Copenhagen….

But to name only the large cities is to overlook the passion in Toulouse, Malta, in small town New Mexico and Bolivia, in the Inuit homeland of northern Canada, in Montevideo, Mostar, in Sfax, Tunisia (where the marchers were beaten by the police), in Chicoutimi, Québec (where the wind chill factor brought the temperature down to -40°C), and on Ross Island, Antarctica (where the scientists did not walk far, but posed for antiwar photographs to testify that even the seventh continent was on board).

The global walk of more than 30 million people prompted the New York Times to call civil society “the world’s other superpower“.

That day, 15 February 2003, did not stop the war against Iraq, though it might have changed the war’s parameters.

Turkey, for example, under heavy citizen pressure declined to let its air bases be used for the assault.

Above: Flag of Turkey

The 21st century has dawned as an era of people power and public protest.

In Latin America, in particular, that power had been very tangible, toppling regimes, undoing coups, protecting resources from foreign profiteers.

From students in Belgrade to farmers in Korea, collective public acts have mattered.

Above: Demonstration against Iranian President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad in Rio during Rio+20 conference

Walking itself has not changed the world, but walking together has been a rite, tool and reinforcement of the civil society that can stand up to violence, to fear, and to repression.

Indeed, it is hard to imagine a viable civil society without the free association and the knowledge of the terrain that comes with walking.

A sequestered or passive population is not quite a citizenry.

Above: Hundreds of thousands descended on Washington, DC’s, Lincoln Memorial, 28 August 1963.

It was from the steps of the memorial that Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. delivered his famous I Have a Dream speech.

King’s many speeches and nonviolent actions were instrumental in shaping the nation’s outlook on equality.

The 50,000 person march in Seattle that culminated in a shutdown of the 1990 World Trade Organization (WTO) meeting on 30 November 1999 was one start of a new era in which a global movement stood up against the corporate version of globalization, with its threats to the local, to the democratic, to the unhomogenized and to the independent.

Above: WTO protests in Seattle, 30 November 1999 – Police pepper spray the crowd.

9/11 and the collapse of the World Trade Towers is the other date usually selected as the stormy dawn of the new millennium.

Perhaps the most profound response to that terrorism was the first:

Tens of thousands of New Yorkers who walked away from danger together, on foot, as citizens familiar with their streets and as human beings willing to offer aid to strangers, filling avenues like a grim parade, turning the Brooklyn Bridge into a pedestrian route, eventually turning Union Square into an agora for public mourning and public debate.

Above: Brooklyn Bridge, New York City, 11 September 2001

Those hundreds of thousands living in public, unarmed, engaged and equal, were the opposite of the secrecy and violence that characterized both the attacks and Bush’s revenge (and unrelated war in Iraq).

Above: As Dan Bartlett, Deputy Assistant to the President, points to news footage of the World Trade Center, US President George W. Bush gathers information about the terrorist attack from a classroom at Emma E. Booker Elementary School in Sarasota, Florida.

Also pictured from left are: CIA daily briefer Michael Morell, Director of the White House Situation Room Deborah Loewer and Senior Adviser Karl Rove.

That much of the antiwar movement has also consisted of massive groups of walkers is not coincidental.

The best evidence of the potency of unarmed people walking together in the streets is the aggressive measures taken in the US and in the UK to control or altogether stop these crowds at the Republican National Convention in New York in August 2004, in Gleneagles (Scotland) during the G8 Summit a year later, as well as at any corporate globalization conference since 1999, be it the WTO, the International Monetary Fund (IMF), the World Bank, the World Economic Forum or the G8.

Above: Republican National Convention protests, Madison Square Garden, New York City, 30 August – 2 September 2004

Above: Gleneagles (Scotland) G8 Summit protests, 6 – 8 July 2005

Above: Map of G8 countries and the European Union

These summits at which the power of the few is openly pitted against that of the many have routinely acquired that temporary police states be built around them, with millions of pounds, dollars, euros, francs, yen or yuan spent on security forces, armaments, surveillance, fences and barriers.

A world brutalized in defense of brutal policy.

Against unarmed walkers.

But more insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space, and will to walk, and against the version of humanity that act embodies.

One force is the filling-up as “the time between“, the time of walking to or from a place, of meandering, of running errands.

That time has been deplored as a waste, reduced, and its remainder filled with earphones playing music and mobile phones relaying conversations.

The very ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the useless, often seems to be evaporating, as does appreciation of being outside – including outside the familiar.

Mobile phone conversations seem to serve as a buffer against solitude, silence, thought, and encounters with the unknown.

Technology, as such, is hard to finger as a culprit, since the global march of 15 February 2003 was coordinated on the Internet.

But technology’s commercial deployment is often against those things that are free in both senses monetary and political.

Obesity and its related health crises is becoming more and more of a pandemic as people in more parts of the world become immobilized and overfed from childhood on.

A downward spiral where the inactive body becomes less and less capable of action.

That obesity is not just circumstantial – due to a world of digital amusements and parking lots, of sprawl and suburbs – but conceptual in origin, as people forget that their bodies could be adequate to the challenges that face them and a pleasure to use.

They perceive and imagine their bodies as essentially passive, a treasure or a burden, but not a tool for work and travel.

Promotional material for motorized Segway scooters, for example, asserts that travelling short distances in cities and even warehouses is a challenge that only machines can solve.

The inadequacy of feet alone to go the distance has been erased, along with the millennia we got around before machines.

The fight against this collapse of imagination and engagement may be as important as the battles for political freedom, because only by recuperating a sense of inherent power can we begin to resist both oppressions and the erosion of the vital body in action.

Above: Scene from Pixar/Disney film WALL-E (2008)

As the climate heats up and oil runs out, this recovery is going to be very important, more important perhaps than alternative fuels and the other modes of continuing down the motorized route rather than reclaiming the alternatives.

Most industrial zone human beings need to rethink time, space, and their own bodies before they will be engaged to be as urbane and as pedestrian as their predecessors.

While walking, the body and the mind can work together, so that thinking becomes almost a physical, rhythmic act.

Spirituality and sexuality both enter in.

The great walkers often move through both urban and rural places in the same way.

Past and present are brought together when you walk as the Ancients did or relive some event in history or your own life by retracing its route.

Each walk moves through space like a thread through fabric, sewing it up together into a continuous experience – so unlike the way airplanes, cars and train travel chop up time and space.

This continuity is one of the things we lost in the Industrial Age.

But we can choose to reclaim it, again and again.

And some do.

The fields and streets are waiting.

Like walking, like record players and VHS tapes and vinyl records, landline phones are being embraced by nostalgic fans as an antidote to an increasingly digital way of life.

First came the rhinestone-encrusted rotary.

Then the cherry-red lips.

After that, the cheeseburger.

By the summer of 2021, Chanell Karr had amassed a collection of six landline phones.

Her most recent, an orange corded model made as a promotional item for the 1986 film Pretty in Pink was purchased in June 2021.

Though Karr has only one of them – a more subdued V-Tech phone – hooked up, all are in working order.

During the pandemic, I wanted to disconnect from all of the things that distract you on a Smartphone.“, said Karr (30), who works in marketing and ticketing at a music venue near her home in Alexandria, Kentucky.

I just wanted to get back to the original analog ways of having a landline.

Once a kitchen staple, bedside companion, and plot device on sitcoms, such as Sex and the City and Seinfeld, the landline phone has all but been replaced by its newer smarter wireless counterpart.

In 2003, more than 90% of respondents to a survey conducted by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) said they had an operational landline in their homes.

As of June 2021, that number – which includes Internet-connected phones and those wired the old-fashioned way (via copper lines running from a home to a local junction box) – had dropped to just over 30%.

But like record players and VHS tapes, landline phones are being embraced by nostalgic fans who say their non-scrollable and non-strollable nature is an antidote to screen fatigue and over-multitasking.

The crescent shape of many phone receivers, users say, is a more natural comfortable fit against a cheek than the planar body of a Smartphone.

And with a non-cordless device, one must commit more to the act of the conversation.

The phone call becomes more intentional.

In January 2022, Emily Kennedy, a communications manager in the Canadian public service, started using an old Calamine-lotion-pink rotary phone from her father’s office as a way to detach from her work in social media.

Ironically, it was on Twitter where Kennedy got the idea.

Above: Logo of American social networking site, Twitter

When Rachel Syme, a staff writer at the New Yorker tweeted in January about a landline phone that she had hooked up via Bluetooth, Kennedy was one of many who replied saying that Syme had inspired them to set up one of their own.

Having my old phone as an object in my house is an identity signal that I like a slower pace.”, said Kennedy (38) who lives in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.

Like Syme and many other modern users of analog phones, Kennedy doesn’t have her landline copper-wired – so it doesn’t have its own number – but uses a Bluetooth attachment to connect it to her Smartphone’s cellular service.

(In other words, when she is connected, she can take a cellphone call on the landline.)

Matt Jennings has worked at Old Phone Works, a company in Kingston, Ontario, that refurbishes and sells landline phones, since 2011.

Now its general manager, Jennings (35) said that in the past two years, customers’ demand for candy-coloured rotary phones from the 1950s and 1960s has skyrocketed.

Almost a year and a half ago, it absolutely exploded.”, Jennings said.

Over the past six or seven years, we might get one or two orders for them.

Now it is probably one of our primary sources of revenue.”

Of what has motivated the recent desire for landline phones, it is a return to basics.”, Jennings said.

You can’t really go anywhere with a corded phone.

You are basically stuck within a three-foot radius of the base.

You can have a real conversation without being distracted.

As appealing as landline phones may be, even their most ardent fans recognize it is basically impossible to use them exclusively.

Alex McConnell (28), a personal banker at Key Bank in Fort Collins, Colorado, has a Western Electric rotary phone wired to copper lines at his home.

On 14 February 2022, McConnell did not celebrate Valentine’s Day, but the 146th anniversary of Alexander Graham Bell submitting the patent application for the telephone.

Above: Alexander Graham Bell (1847 – 1922)

I prepared a meal with Bell peppers and Graham crackers.“, McConnell said.

Then I made a circular cake that I used blue icing to put the Bell logo on and the original patent number for the telephone.

His landline phone is not only more reliable than a cellphone, McConnell said, but also encouraged him to memorize friends’ phone numbers, which he considers a form of intimacy.

Since I actually have to dial my friends’ phone numbers, I find it really does help me connect them to memory.“, McConnell said.

But even he cannot avoid the call of modern life.

My secret sorrow is that I do have a cellphone.

What is not mentioned here in this article is what is considered an advantage of a mobile phone is for me a great disadvantage of this technology – mobility.

Certainly, I can see the advantages of a mobile phone for emergencies.

You have an accident on the road or you are unavoidably late for a meeting, then a mobile phone is truly a useful tool to have.

But this is how technology should be viewed, in my opinion, as a tool handy to have when needed, but not as something we are totally dependent upon, that we are totally addicted to.

I view a mobile phone much as I view a hammer.

I am glad I have one, but I do not want to use it all the time for everything.

I also do not wish to have it on all the time.

There is a certain freedom in not being contactable, to decide when I will choose to reach out to the world, rather than having the world disturb me whenever it so chooses.

And I admit there is something unsettling about knowing that my phone can be used to locate me wherever I am.

Does the world need to know where I am all the time?

I have nothing to hide, but there is a feeling of freedom in going where I want without wondering whether or not my choice of location might cause someone’s disapproval.

I enjoy social media, but in small doses.

I do not want to become one of those people whose first waking and every subsequent moment is to check their phone for messages, news or social media postings.

I like, what my students call “old people’s media“, Facebook, for it allows me more freedom and length of expression than I have seen in other modern applications.

But there is often more negativity expressed on social media than positivity, so I judiciously limit my exposure to it.

I don’t have a landline, for wandering freelance teachers cannot be trusted to remain for too long in one location.

But at home, I keep my cellphone in a different room than the one I am in, with it on in vibration mode only.

Those far from me know that I will eventually return their calls or respond to their messages.

My employer, a mere 15-minute walk from my apartment, can reach me when the vibrations are heard against the wooden counter of my kitchen in my silent lodgings.

I am not uncomfortable with silence.

I welcome it.

I try to wean myself of the habit of looking at my phone during idle moments and I try to resist the urge to monitor the news, which for the most part, is generally not a very positive addiction to have or anything I have any control over.

I do not advocate my habits to others.

I simply say what I do and if someone wishes to emulate me then that is their privilege not my pressure.

I will be honest here.

I am not sure if I like political commentator/comedian Bill Maher or not, but, give the Devil his due, he does say things that are thought provoking.

Above: Bill Maher

Recent comments about Tuesday 8 November (US Midterm Election Day) have made me ponder the wisdom beneath his bluster.

Well, we had a good run.

As everything in America is about to change in a very fundamental way, rules are about to go out the window.

Tuesday is Election Day.

I know I should tell you to vote in what is, honest to God, the most important election ever.

So, OK, you should vote.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

And it should be for the one party that still stands for democracy’s preservation.

Above: Logo of the US Democratic Party

But it is also a waste of breath, because if anyone who believes that is already voting, and the one who needs to learn isn’t watching, and no one in America can be persuaded of anything anymore anyway.

The 6 January hearings turns out changed nobody’s mind.

Above: A crowd erected gallows hangs near the United States Capitol during the 2021 storming of the United States Capitol

Democrat Jamie Raskin said the hearings would tell a story that would really blow the roof off the house.

Above: Jamie Raskin

No, that was Hurricane Ian.

Above: Hurricane Ian on 28 September 2022

The hearings proved not long, the Committee did a masterful job laying out the case that we live in a partisan America now, so it is like doing stand up when half the crowd only speaks Mandarin.

No matter how good the material is, it is not going to go over.

After all the hearings, the percentage of Americans who thought Trump did nothing wrong went UP 3 points.

That is America now.

Above: Donald Trump (US President: 2017 – 2021)

It is liking to win an argument in a marriage.

Even when you are right it still gets you nothing.

Ben Franklin said:

“America is a republic, if you can keep it.”

Well, we can’t.

Above: Benjamin Franklin (1706 – 1790)

Unless a miracle happens on Tuesday, we didn’t.

Democracy is on the ballot and unfortunately it is going to lose.

And once it is gone, it is gone.

It is not something you can change your mind about and reverse.

Republicans will take control of Congress and next year they will begin impeaching Biden and never stop.

“How” won’t matter and it won’t make sense, but Biden will be a crippled duck when he goes up before the 2024 Trump – Kari Lake ticket.

Above: Kari Lake

And even if Trump loses, it doesn’t matter.

On Inaugural Day 2025, he is going to show up whether he is on the list or not.

This time he is not going to take No for an answer, because this time he will have behind him the army of election deniers that is being elected on Tuesday.

There are almost 300 candidates on the ballot this year who don’t believe in ballots and they will be the ones writing the rules and monitoring how votes are counted in 2024.

The facts, the policies, the behaviour don’t matter to anyone anymore.

Trump could be filmed throwing a baby off a bridge and still win.

This really is the crossing of the Rubicon moment when the election deniers are elected which is often how countries slide into authoritarianism, not with tanks in the streets, but by electing the people who then have no intention of ever giving it back.

Above: Julius Caesar (100 – 44 BCE), depicted as pausing on the banks of the Rubicon, 10 January 49 BCE –

The phrase “crossing the Rubicon” is an idiom that means “passing a point of no return“.

Its meaning comes from allusion to the crossing of the river Rubicon by Julius Caesar.

His crossing of the river precipitated civil war, which ultimately led to Caesar’s becoming dictator for life (dictator perpetuo).

Caesar had been appointed to a governorship over a region that ranged from southern Gaul to Illyricum.

As his term of governorship ended, the Senate ordered him to disband his army and return to Rome.

As it was illegal to bring armies into Italy (the northern border of which was marked by the river Rubicon) his crossing the river under arms amounted to insurrection, treason and a declaration of war on the state.

According to some authors, he uttered the phrase alea iacta est (“the die is cast“) before crossing.

The Republican up for Wisconsin governor just said that if elected Republicans will never lose another election.

Above: Tim Michels, Republican nominee in 2022 Wisconsin gubernatorial election

This is how it happens.

Hitler was elected.

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

So was Mussolini, Putin, Erdoğan and Viktor Orban.

Above: Benito Mussolini (1883 – 1945)

Above: Russian President Vladimir Putin

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Above: Hungarian Prime Minister Viktor Orbán

This is the “it can’t happen to us” moment that is happening to us right now.

We just don’t feel it yet.

We are the Titanic just after the iceberg hit.

Above: RMS Titanic leaves Southampton, England, 10 April 1912

And, honestly, too many Americans just don’t care and won’t even care after it happens, because they never followed politics to begin with.

They were never taught in school what democratic government was supposed to look like.

So how can they be at losing something they never knew they had?

You could try and tell them that we will no longer have a system of checks and balances.

They will have an answer for that:

“What’s checks and balances?”

Above: Checks and balances

Democracy’s hard.

Athens did not have to deal with Fox News or the Smart phone that made everybody stupid, and they only lasted 200 years.

So, our 246 doesn’t look so bad.

Above: The Acropolis, Athens, Greece

But before we do go, I would like to say a little farewell to some of the things that really did make America great now we are going to lose forever.

Like the peaceful transfer of power, the jewel in our crown, that thing that so many other nations couldn’t pull off and we always did.

Oh, well.

Above: Crown Jewels of Austria

The Bill of Rights –

When there is no accountability in the ballot box there are no actual rights.

Above: Draft of the US Bill of Rights

Look, Generalissimo Trump is not going to bring back child labour or end social security or resegregate the water fountains.

Above: African-American man drinking at a “colored” drinking fountain in a streetcar terminal in Oklahoma City, 1939

He doesn’t hate Jews.

Above: “Selection” of Hungarian Jews on the ramp at Auschwitz II – Birkenau in German-occupied Poland, around May 1944.

Jews were sent either to work or to the gas chamber.

The photograph is part of the collection known as the Auschwitz Album.

The Auschwitz Album is the only surviving visual evidence of the process leading to mass murder at Auschwitz-Birkenau.

The album was found it in the Mittelbau – Dora concentration camp in 1945.

But make no mistake it will be an entirely different way of life for many because our elections will just be for show, like China or Russia or any other places Trump says are “strong”.

Above: Flag of Russia

Above: Flag of China

Above: Flag of North Korea

Free speech?

Well, he’s a man who has always taken criticism well.

But I won’t count on that one lasting.

I wouldn’t count on freedom of religion lasting.

Q-Anon and the other shock troops of the Trump takeover of the Republican Party are all quasi-religious entities who want a Christian government.

Above: QAnon flag featuring the Q logo and the movement’s prominent slogan “Where we go one, we go all“, at a Second Amendment rally in Richmond, Virginia, 20 January 2020

Above: Logo of the US Republican Party

Oh, and the FBI might be replaced by an army of Proud Boys under the leadership of Michael Flynn.

Above: Logo of the Proud Boys, an American far-right, neo-fascist, white nationalist, and exclusively male organization that promotes and engages in political violence in the US.

It has been called a street gang and was designated as a terrrorist group in Canada and New Zealand.

The Proud Boys are known for their opposition to left wing and progressive groups and their support for former US President Donald Trump.

Above: Michael Flynn, a retired US Army Lieutenant General who was the 24th US National Security Advisor for the first 22 days of the Trump administration, he resigned in light of reports that he had lied regarding conversations with the Russian ambassador to the US Sergey Kislyak.

Flynn’s military career included a key role in shaping US counterterrorism strategy and dismantling insurgent networks in the Afghanistan and Iraq Wars.

He was given numerous combat arms, conventional and special operations senior intelligence assignments.

He became the 18th director of the Defense Intelligence Agency in July 2012 until his forced retirement from the military in August 2014.

During his tenure he gave a lecture on leadership at the Moscow headquarters of the Russian military intelligence directorate GRU (the foreign military intelligence agency of the General Staff of the Armed Forces of the Russian Federation), the first American official to be admitted entry to the headquarters.

After leaving the military, in October 2014 he established Flynn Intel Group, which provided intelligence services for businesses and governments, including in Turkey.

In December 2015, Flynn was paid $45,000 to deliver a Moscow speech at the ten-year anniversary celebration of RT (a state-controlled Russian international television network), where he sat next to Russian President Vladimir Putin at his banquet table.

In February 2016, Flynn became a national security advisor to Trump for his 2016 presidential campaign.

In March 2017, Flynn retroactively registered as a foreign agent, acknowledging that in 2016 he had conducted paid lobbying work that may have benefited Turkey’s government.

On 22 January 2017, Flynn was sworn in as the National Security Advisor.

On 13 February 2017, he resigned after information surfaced that he had misled Vice President Mike Pence and others about the nature and content of his communications with Sergey Kislyak.

Flynn’s tenure as the National Security Advisor is the shortest in the history of the position.

In December 2017, Flynn formalized a deal with Special Counsel Robert Mueller to plead guilty to a felony count of “willfully and knowingly” making false statements to the FBI about the Kislyak communications.

He agreed to cooperate with the Special Counsel’s investigation.

In June 2019, Flynn dismissed his attorneys and retained Sidney Powell, who on the same day wrote to Attorney General Bill Barr seeking his assistance in exonerating Flynn.

Powell had discussed the case on Fox News and spoken to President Trump about it on several occasions.

Two weeks before his scheduled sentencing, in January 2020 Flynn moved to withdraw his guilty plea, claiming government vindictiveness and breach of the plea agreement.

At Barr’s direction, the Justice Department filed a court motion to drop all charges against Flynn on 7 May 2020.

Presiding federal judge Emmet Sullivan ruled the matter to be placed on hold to solicit amicus curiae (a person or organization who requests to provide legal submissions so as to offer a relevant alternative or additional perspective regarding the matters in dispute). briefs from third parties.

Powell then asked the DC Circuit Court of Appeals to compel Sullivan to drop the case, but her request was denied.

On 25 November 2020, Flynn was issued a presidential pardon by Trump.

On 8 December 2020, Judge Sullivan dismissed the criminal case against Flynn, stating he probably would have denied the Justice Department motion to drop the case.

On 4 July 2020, Flynn pledged an oath to the pro-Trump QAnon conspiracy theory.

As Trump sought to overturn the results of the 2020 presidential election in which he was defeated, Flynn suggested the President should suspend the Constitution, silence the press, and hold a new election under military authority.

Flynn later met with Trump and their attorney Powell in the Oval Office to discuss the President’s options.

Trump denied reports that Flynn’s martial law idea had been discussed. 

On 8 January 2021, Twitter permanently banned Flynn, Powell and others who promoted QAnon.

Flynn has since become a prominent leader in a Christian nationalist movement, organizing and recruiting for what he characterizes as a spiritual and political war.

Things will not be decided by the rule of law.

That one was a real jewel.

Maybe our finest hour as Americans was after World War II when we gave the defeated Nazis fair trial just as Robert Jackson said:

“Voluntarily submitting our captive enemies to the judgment of the law was one of the most significant tributes that Power has ever paid to Reason.”

Above: Judges’ panel of the international military tribunal, Nuremberg Trials, 30 November 1945 – 1 October 1946

Well, Power will soon not be paying any more tributes to Reason.

Not in America anyway.

Above: Chief US prosecutor at the Nuremberg Trials, Robert Jackson (1892 – 1954)

So, I urge you to vote, but I have always been a realist.

I’m afraid that democracy is like the McRib:

It’s here now, it will be around for a little bit longer, so enjoy it while you can.

Above: McDonald’s McRib sandwich, as bought in America

There is a manner about Maher that is somewhat abrasive to me, but sometimes harshness is required when delivering an important message.

He speaks unsettling inconvenient truth to the apathetic and the ignorant who have the courage to watch him and ponder what he has to say.

He targets many topics including religion, political correctness, and the mass media.

He is a supporter of animal rights, the legalization of cannabis, birth control and universal health care.

He has been unafraid to speak his mind, regardless of how politically incorrect he may appear.

He controversially suggested that the 9/11 terrorists did not act in a cowardly manner (in rebuttal to President Bush’s statement calling them cowards).

Maher said:

We have been the cowards.

Lobbing cruise missiles from 2,000 miles away.

That’s cowardly.

Staying in the airplane when it hits the building.

Say what you want about it.

Not cowardly.

Above: Rescue workers climb over and dig through piles of rubble from the destroyed World Trade Center as the American flag billows over the debris. 19 Septmeber 2001, New York City

Maher later clarified that his comment was not anti-military in any way whatsoever, referencing his well-documented longstanding support for the American military.

Above: The Pentagon, headquarters of the US Department of Defense, Arlington, Virginia

In late May 2005, Alabama Congressman Spencer Bachus sent a letter to Time Warner’s board of directors requesting Maher’s show Real Time be cancelled after remarks Maher made after noting the military had missed its recruiting goals by 42%.

Bachus said he felt the comments were demeaning to the military and treasonous.

Maher stated his highest regard and support for the troops and asked why the Congressman criticized him instead of doing something about the recruitment problem.

Above: Congressman Spencer Bachus

Above: Logo of Warner Media (1972 – 2022), formerly Time Warner

Maher often eschews political labels, referring to himself as “practical“. 

He identifies as liberal and stands against political correctness.

In his words:

The difference is that liberals protect people and PC people protect feelings.

Maher counts himself as a “9/11 liberal“, noting that he differentiates himself from many mainstream liberals in saying that not all religions are alike and that he is not bigoted in criticizing a particular religion.

He said in a later interview:

It’s ridiculous to label criticism of a religion as a phobia of a religion.

I’m going to criticize any person or group that violates liberal principles.”

(I agree with Maher here in respect to criticizing religion.

For example, I am not opposed to a Muslim woman wearing or not wearing a hijab or head covering, if it is her choice.)

Above: Iranian women wearing hijab in Tehran, 4 May 2017

Maher favours the ending of corporate welfare (the government’s bestowal of money grants, tax breaks or other special favourable treatment for corporations) and federal funding of non-profits.

Above: Ralph Nader, an American political activist, author, lecturer, and attorney noted for his involvement in consumer protection, environmentalism, and government reform causes.

The term “corporate welfare” was reportedly coined in 1956 by him.

Maher also favors the legalization of gambling and prostitution.

Above: Caraveggio’s The Cardsharps (1594)

(I agree with the first sentence (above Nader).

I need to consider soberly the wisdom or folly of the second.)

Above: Auguste Rodin’s The Thinker, Paris, France

Maher describes himself as an environmentalist.

He has spoken in favor of the Kyoto Treaty on Global Warming on his show Real Time.

(The Kyoto Protocol was an international treaty which extended the 1992 UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) that commits state parties to reduce greenhouse gas emissions, based on the scientific consensus that global warming is occurring and that manmade CO2 emissions are driving it.

The Kyoto Protocol was adopted in Kyoto, Japan on 11 December 1997 and entered into force on 16 February 2005.

There were 192 parties to the Protocol in 2020.)

Above: Kiyomizu Temple, Kyoto, Japan

Maher often criticizes industry figures involved in environmental pollution.

(A valid discussion worthy of future commentary here.)

Maher has been critical of the #MeToo movement (a social movement against sexual abuse, sexual harassment and rape culture, in which people publicize their experiences of sexual abuse or sexual harassment), describing it in February 2018 as McCarthyite (the practice of making false or unfounded accusations especially when done in a public and attention-grabbing manner).

Above: Joseph McCarthy (1908 – 1957)

Above: Typical US anti-communist literature of the 1950s, specifically addressing the entertainment industry

Although Maher welcomed Obama’s electoral victory, he subjected him to criticism after he took office for not acting more boldly on health care reform and other progressive issues.

Above: Barack Obama (US President: 2009 – 2017)

In August 2019, Maher said an economic recession would be “worth it” if Donald Trump does not get re-elected in 2020.

He said:

We have survived many recessions.

We can’t survive another Donald Trump term.

Above: Will the real Donald Trump please shut up, please shut up?

Maher highlighted Trump’s own public references to Maher’s assertions that Trump was “not going to leave” and quoted Trump’s 14 March 2019, assertion that “I have the support of the police, the military, the bikers” and “the tough people“, citing this as evidence that Trump would seek to remain in office by force.

Above: Outside during the US Capitol during the 6 January 2021 attack on the building

Maher predicted there would be violence by armed Trump supporters attempting to keep Trump in power and criticized Democratic Party politicians for not taking the threat seriously:

So my question to all Democratic candidates is:

What’s the plan?

If you win, and the next day he claims he’s voiding the election because of irregularities he’s hearing about, what do you do?

What do you do when the crowd marches on Washington?

This is a scary moment.

And when I’ve asked Democrats:

‘What do we do if he doesn’t go?’

Their answer is always some variation of ‘We have to win big!’

First of all:

NO!

No, we don’t have to win by a landslide!

I am so sick of Democrats volunteering to play by two different sets of rules.

That’s the new paradigm?

Republicans can win by one vote, but we’re not legitimate unless it’s a landslide?

And two:

Do you really think it would matter if it was?

That they would suddenly get rational about math and facts?

They believe Hillary Clinton ran a pedophile ring out of a pizza parlor!

Above: Hillary Clinton

On 16 April 2021, Maher called media coverage of the COVID-19 pandemic “panic porn” and added that:

When all of our sources for medical information have an agenda to spin us, yeah, you wind up with a badly misinformed population, including on the left.”

In regards to his comments on these 2022 US Midterm Elections, regardless of the results, I am cautious of fully agreeing with his alarmist sentiments of the inevitability of a Republican win leading to the loss of democracy in America.

That being said, there are certain uncomfortable truths in his voicing his concerns about the threat demagogues such as Trump pose.

Maher’s refers indirectly to Sinclair Lewis here.

Above: Sinclair Lewis (1885 – 1951)

It Can’t Happen Here is a 1935 dystopian political novel, which describes the rise of a US dictator similar to how Adolf Hitler gained power.

In 1936, Senator Berzelius “Buzz” Windrip, a charismatic and power-hungry politician from an unnamed US state, enters the presidential election campaign on a populist platform, promising to restore the country to prosperity and greatness.

Portraying himself as a champion of “the forgotten man” (a political concept in the US centered around those whose interests have been neglected) and traditional American values, Windrip defeats President Franklin Delano Roosevelt for the Democratic nomination, and then easily beats his Republican opponent, Senator Walt Trowbridge, in the November election.

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945)

Although having previously foreshadowed some authoritarian measures to reorganize the US government, Windrip rapidly outlaws dissent, incarcerates political enemies in concentration camps, and trains and arms a paramilitary force called the Minute Men (named after the Revolutionary War militias of the same name), who terrorize citizens and enforce the policies of Windrip and his corporatist (a political system in which the economy is collectively managed by employers, workers and state officials by formal mechanisms at the national level, wherein its supporters claim that corporatism could better recognize or “incorporate” every divergent interest into the state organically, unlike majority-rules democracy which could marginalize specific interests.) regime.

Above: The Lexington Minuteman, Lexington, Massachusetts

One of Windrip’s first acts as President is to eliminate the influence of the US Congress, which draws the ire of many citizens as well as the legislators themselves.

The Minute Men respond to protests against Windrip’s decisions harshly, attacking demonstrators with bayonets.

In addition to these actions, Windrip’s administration, known as the Corpo government, curtails women’s and minority rights, and eliminates individual states by subdividing the country into administrative sectors (akin to The Hunger Games).

The government of these sectors is managed by Corpo authorities, usually prominent businessmen or Minute Men officers.

Those accused of crimes against the government appear before kangaroo courts  presided over by military judges.

(A kangaroo court is a court that ignores recognized standards of law or justice, carries little or no official standing in the territory within which it resides, and is typically convened ad hoc.

A kangaroo court may ignore due process and come to a predetermined conclusion.

The term may also apply to a court held by a legitimate judicial authority which intentionally disregards the court’s legal or ethical obligations, such as a show trial.

A kangaroo court court could also develop when the structure and operation of the forum result in an inferior brand of adjudication.

A common example of this is when institutional disputants (“repeat players“) have excessive and unfair structural advantages over individual disputants (“one-shot players“).

The term comes from the notion of justice proceeding “by leaps“, like a kangaroo – in other words, “jumping over” (intentionally ignoring) evidence that would be in favour of the defendant.)

Despite these dictatorial and “quasi-draconian” measures, a majority of Americans approve of them, seeing them as painful but necessary steps to restore US power.

(Make America great again…..)

Open opponents of Windrip, led by Senator Trowbridge, form an organization called the New Underground (named after the Underground Railroad), helping dissidents escape to Canada and distributing anti-Windrip propaganda.

One recruit to the New Underground is Doremus Jessup, the novel’s protagonist, a traditional liberal and an opponent of both corporatist and communist theories, the latter of which Windrip’s administration suppresses.

Above: The Underground Railroad was not an actual railroad, but a network of secret routes and safe houses used by black slaves in the United States to escape to free states and Canada.

Jessup’s participation in the organization results in the publication of a periodical called The Vermont Vigilance, in which he writes editorials decrying Windrip’s abuses of power.

(Even before Windrip’s election, Jessup brings up the possibility of fascism coming to America, but Francis Tasbrough, the wealthy owner of a quarry in Jessup’s hometown of Fort Beulah, Vermont, dismisses it with the remark that it simply “can’t happen here“, hence the novel’s title.)

Above: Flag of Vermont

Shad Ledue, the local district commissioner and Jessup’s former hired man, resents his old employer.

Ledue eventually discovers Jessup’s actions and has him sent to a concentration camp.

Ledue subsequently terrorizes Jessup’s family and particularly his daughter Sissy, whom he unsuccessfully attempts to seduce.

Sissy discovers evidence of corrupt dealings on the part of Ledue, which she exposes to Francis Tasbrough, a one-time friend of Jessup and Ledue’s superior in the administrative hierarchy.

Tasbrough has Ledue imprisoned in the same camp as Jessup, where inmates Ledue had sent there organize Ledue’s murder.

After a relatively brief incarceration, Jessup escapes when his friends bribe one of the camp guards.

He flees to Canada, where he rejoins the New Underground.

He later serves the organization as a spy, passing along information and urging locals to resist Windrip.

Above: Flag of Canada

In time, Windrip’s hold on power weakens as the economic prosperity he promised does not materialize, and increased numbers of disillusioned Americans, including Vice President Perley Beecroft, flee to both Canada and Mexico.

Windrip also angers his Secretary of State, Lee Sarason, who had served earlier as his chief political operative and adviser.

Sarason and Windrip’s other lieutenants, including General Dewey Haik, seize power and exile the President to France.

Above: Flag of France

Sarason succeeds Windrip, but his extravagant and relatively weak rule creates a power vacuum in which Haik and others vie for power.

In a bloody putsch, Haik leads a party of military supporters into the White House, kills Sarason and his associates, and proclaims himself President.

The two coups cause a slow erosion of Corpo power, and Haik’s government desperately tries to arouse patriotism by launching an unjustified invasion of Mexico.

After slandering Mexico in state-run newspapers, Haik orders a mass conscription of young American men for the invasion of that country, infuriating many who had until then been staunch Corpo loyalists.

Riots and rebellions break out across the country, with many realizing the Corpos have misled them.

Above: Flag of Mexico

General Emmanuel Coon, among Haik’s senior officers, defects to the opposition with a large portion of his army, giving strength to the resistance movement.

Although Haik remains in control of much of the country, civil war soon breaks out as the resistance tries to consolidate its grasp on the Midwest.

The novel ends after the beginning of the conflict, with Jessup working as an agent for the New Underground in Corpo-occupied portions of southern Minnesota.

Above: Flag of Minnesota

What worries me about Lewis’ book and George Orwell’s Nineteen Eighty-four is that these were meant as cautionary tales, not instruction manuals.

I think that should Maher be as prescient about the outcome of the Midterms as he was about Trump’s reactions to losing the 2020 Presidential Elections, then a return to the past may hold a kernel of hope for the future.

Maher gives as one reason that too many Americans just don’t care about politics is that they were never taught in school what democratic government was supposed to look like.

I think therein lies a solution:

Education.

To be more precise, self-education.

Self-education converts a world which only a good world for those who can win at its ruthless game into a world good for all of us.

If there is one piece of advice I would like to share with my readers, from Max Schuster to Ronald Gross to you, it is that you should begin at once to choose some subject, some concept, some great idea (such as democracy) or event in history on which you can make yourself the world’s supreme expert.

Start a crash program immediately to qualify yourself for this self-assignment through reading, research and reflection.

I don’t mean the sort of expert who avoids all the small errors as he sweeps on to the grand fallacy.

I mean one who has the most knowledge, the deepest insight and the most audacious willingness to break new ground.

We must somehow figure out how to be a democracy of the intellect.

Knowledge must sit in the homes and heads of people with no ambition to control others and not up in the isolated seats of power.

Only if the adventure of knowing and understanding were shared as widely as possible will our civilization, will civilized society remain viable.

In the end, it is not an aristocracy of experts, scientific or otherwise, on whom we must depend, but on them AND ourselves.

The personal commitment of a man to his skill, the intellectual commitment and the emotional commitment working together as one, has made for our true progress as a species.

Every man, every civilization, has gone forward because of its engagement with what it has set itself to do.

Knowledge is our destiny.

Knowledge is our salvation.

The ascent of the human mind continues.

Participation in it, to the degree that our personal endowments permit, is self-declared.

Each of us should be warmly welcomes to make the finest contribution our talent and effort can fashion.

Universities have become intellectual museums.

We need to learn together what we need to know.

Academe has assumed a dominant role in our culture and society.

That dominance has blinded us to independent scholarship, to independent thinking.

Have we forgotten the great tradition of all those who achieved intellectual preeminence without benefit of a faculty position?

Academe is not the sole source of significant scholarship.

Fresh thinking, research and experimentation is needed in virtually every field, especially politics.

Above: Columbia University, New York City –

The alma mater (“nourishing mother“), is one of the most enduring symbols of the university.

The phrase was first used to describe the University of Bologna (Italy), founded in 1088.

I lean towards the lessons of history for guidance through the shoals of the present.

Socrates would teach students whatever they wanted to know, for whatever purpose, good or bad.

Socrates insisted that he did NOT have wisdom – that he merely loved it and hence should be called a philosopher, a mere lover of wisdom.

The Socratic amateur is not afraid to be a generalist and tackles the biggest and most complex problems without reducing them to techniques, but instead seeks to share and spread understanding, rather than to control and possess knowledge.

Above: Marble bust of Socrates (470 – 399 BCE), Louvre Museum, Paris, France

This tradition was exemplified by the wandering scholars of the 12th century whose allegiance was to learning, not to any temporal power.

Medieval universities arose out of the struggles of such scholars.

Above: Seal of the University of Bologna

Later, when the universities which they founded had in turn become moribund and institutionalized, once again it was independent scholars – founders of modern science like Galileo and Kepler – who founded learned societies outside of the universities, to explore new ideas and new ways of knowing which universities refuse to entertain.

Above: Galileo Galilei (1564 – 1642)

Above: Johannes Kepler (1571 – 1630)

Independent scholarship, independent thinking always arises as a challenge to the dangerous myth that serious thinking only goes on in established orthodox institutions, that learning is the exclusive possession of the professoriate.

In our own day of excessive bureaucratization, government control and professionalism in learning, the Socratic amateur is an urgently needed voice.

Intellectual commentary on our culture and society should be open and encouraged to the nonacademic thinker.

Matters of such moment, involving our basic values and principles, are too important to be left to the academics.

We need to apply our self-education to the betterment of our society and apply what we have learned to a cause or issue we care deeply about.

And knowing what to care deeply about begins with self-education.

I believe we should learn about politics, for what is truly at stake in politics is nothing less than how we should live, as individuals and as communities.

Our opinions matter, because we have been the capacity for individual thought and reasoning and because we are part of the human whole.

We need to decide for ourselves how we should live, how we should be governed.

Government should exist by the consent of the governed, by the will of the people.

Are we political, economic or religious animals?

Should we live in small city-states, nations or multinational empires?

What values should politics promote and protect?

Should wealth be owned privately or in common?

Our ideas have grown from the dramatic lives and times of those who came before us.

We need to be reminded that politics can be and should be a noble, inspiring and civilizing art.

To understand today’s political world, its strengths and weaknesses, its promise and dangers, we need to understand the foundation of politics and its architects past and present.

It is fashionable today to describe politics as a swamp.

For many it has become nothing more than a vulgar spectacle of deceit, ambition and opportunism.

Trust in our political institutions and leaders has sunk to new lows.

Politicians are held in greater contempt than for generations.

Voter anger and disenchantment are growing at an alarming rate.

Distracted by all the unseemly squabbling of politics, we end up allowing markets and bureaucrats to make decisions for us, leaving citizens resigned and alienated from politics-as-usual.

It is very hard to imagine that ideas, let alone ideals, could play any part in all of this.

Above: Niccolo Machiavelli, The Prince (1550)

But politics has always been a messy business, governed more by expediency and compromise than by lofty ideals and principles, however much lip service is paid to the latter.

It is usually a very rough and nasty game, a Game of Thrones, dominated by conflicting interests, emotions, wealth and power.

Much of the time it is just a low-down dirty business, an evil-smelling bog, as one 19th century British politician (Prime Minister Lord Rosebery) called it.

So shameful is political manoeuvring that it has largely been conducted behind closed doors.

No decent person, it has been said, wants to observe sausages or laws being made.

Above: Archibald Primrose, 5th Earl Rosebery (1847 – 1929)(UK Prime Minister: 1894 – 1895)

This common view of politics is partially true, but it is not the whole truth.

Perhaps more than in any other arena, politics shows humans at their worst and at their best.

We are all too familiar now with the worst, but we need to remind ourselves of the best in an age when it is not often apparent, but when it needs to be, given what is at stake.

Politics is actually a place where ideas and ideals meet concrete reality, where great words and great deeds mix with base motives and low intrigue.

At its best, politics can be “a great and civilizing human activity“, as the political theorist Bernard Crick described it in his defence of the art.

Above: British political theorist Bernard Crick (1929 – 2008)

Politics is the alternative to controlling people by force or fraud alone.

Politics can be and has been used for good and deliberate ends.

History provides abundant examples of this.

Politics is capable of a moral nobility and an intellectual depth foreign to the present age of reality TV and government by Twitter.

Politics is the arena in which the fate of our planet will be decided.

That is why, as citizens, we have a responsibility to engage with politics.

You may not care about politics but politics cares about you.

Above: Logo of US social networking site Twitter

Citizens should be informed, but they also need to be knowledgeable and wise.

Today we are inundated with information.

But knowledge and wisdom remain as scarce as ever.

Thanks to the miracle of digital technology, we are drowning in oceans of data, facts and opinions.

What we need now is not more information but more insight, not more data but more perspective, not more opinions but more wisdom.

Much of what is called information is misinformed.

Most opinions fall short of true knowledge and wisdom.

Even a superficial glance at the state of contemporary politics will dispel any illusion that the explosion of information has led to wiser citizens or politicians or improved the quality of public debate.

If anything, misinformation is winning over knowledge.

The news is incapable of explaining anything.

Its brief reports are like tiny shimmering soap bubbles bursting on the surface of a complex world.

It is all the more absurd then that news corporations pride themselves on accurately reporting the facts.

These facts are usually no more than the consequences and side effects of deeper underlying causes.

Even if you gobble down the latest images and reports from Syria every single day, it will not get you one jot further towards understanding the war.

Above: Flag of Syria

There is actually an inverse relationship:

The more images and frontline dispatches raining down on you, the less you will understand what is going on in the war and why.

News corporations and consumers both fall prey to the same mistake, confusing the presentation of facts with insight into the functional context of the world.

Facts, facts and more facts” is the marginalizing credo of nearly all news corporation.

We ought to try and understand the “generators” underlying these events.

We ought to be investigating the “engine room” behind them.

Sadly, shockingly few journalists are able to explain these causal relationships, because the processes that shape cultural, intellectual, economic, military, political and environmental events are mostly invisible.

They are complex, non-linear and hard for our brains to digest.

This is why news corporations focus on the easy stuff: anecdotes, scandals, celebrity gossip and natural disasters.

They are cheap to produce and easy to digest.

Worse still, the few journalists who do understand the “engine room” and are capable of writing about it are not given the space to do so – let alone time to think.

Why?

Because the bulk of readers would rather consume ten juicy morsels of news than a single thorough article.

Ten lurid little scandals generate more attention – and thus more advertising revenue – than one intelligent article of the same length.

I make my living off the evening news
Just give me something
Something I can use
People love it when you lose
They love dirty laundry

Well, I coulda been an actor
But I wound up here
I just have to look good
I don’t have to be clear
Come and whisper in my ear
Give us dirty laundry

Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down
Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down

Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down
Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em all around

Above: Will Ferrell (Ron Burgundy), Anchorman: The Legend of Ron Burgundy (2004)

We got the bubble headed
Bleached blonde
Comes on at five
She can tell you ’bout the plane crash
With a gleam in her eye
It’s interesting when people die
Give us dirty laundry

Above: Christina Applegate (Veronica Cornerstone), Anchorman 2: The Legend Continues (2013)

Can we film the operation?
Is the head dead yet?
You know the boys in the newsroom
Got a running bet
Get the widow on the set
We need dirty laundry

You don’t really need to find out
What’s going on
You don’t really want to know
Just how far it’s gone
Just leave well enough alone
Eat your dirty laundry

Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down
Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down

Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down
Kick ’em when they’re stiff
Kick ’em all around

Dirty little secrets
Dirty little lies
We got our dirty little fingers
In everybody’s pie
We love to cut you down to size
We love dirty laundry

We can do the Innuendo
We can dance and sing
When it’s said and done
We haven’t told you a thing
We all know that crap is king
Give us dirty laundry

News reports are nothing but dots and nobody has made the effort to connect them and solve the puzzle.

No matter how many news reports you consume, no image will ever emerge.

To see the bigger picture, you need the connecting lines.

You need the context, the mutual dependencies, the feedback, the immediate repercussions – and the consequences of these repercussions.

News is the opposite of understanding the world.

News suggests there are only events – events without context.

Yet the opposite is true.

Nearly everything that happens in the world is complex.

Implying these events are singular phenomena is a lie – a lie promulgated by news producers because it tickles our palates.

This is a disaster.

Consuming the news to “understand the world” is worse than not consuming any news at all.

Thomas Jefferson realized this as early as 1807:

The man who never looks into a newspaper is better informed than he who reads them.

Above: Thomas Jefferson (1743 – 1826) (US President: 1801 – 1809)

Facts get in the way of thought.

Your brain can drown in facts.

If you consume the news, you will be under the illusion that you understand the world.

This illusion can lead to overconfidence.

To choose wisdom, we should choose “a limited number of master thinkers and digest their works“, suggested the philosopher Seneca almost 2,000 years ago.

Above: Bust of Seneca the Younger (4 BCE – 65 CE), Antikensammlung, Berlin, Germany

We need to move beyond information to acquire knowledge and, from there, wisdom.

Information is about facts and is more specific.

Knowledge is more general and implies understanding and analysis.

Wisdom is the highest and deepest form of insight into the reality of something.

Perhaps the most nostalgic place to start is the library.

Knowledge is power.

Knowledge is our salvation.

Above: State and University Library, Aarhus, Denmark

At first glance it may be asked:

Why is the opinion of a Canadian upon US politics worthy of any regard?

America, for better or worse, is, at this time in history, the mightiest power on the planet.

What American political, military, economic, cultural and scientific institutions do has a decisive influence, for better or worse, on the lives of everyone everywhere on Earth.

With great power comes great responsibility.

It is the duty of everyone to hold America responsible for how it wields its power.

It is the duty of everyone to remind Americans that what they do affects the rest of the world.

In Europe in the weeks following 9/11, in the leading newspapers in Britain, Germany, France, Italy and Spain there was plenty of news coverage that both sympathized with the horror inflicted upon the United States and endorsed the right of the US to retaliate militarily.

Above: 9/11 Memorial South Pool, New York City

But there was also lots of coverage that cautioned against a military response, connected the attacks with America’s foreign policy and urged attention to the root causes of terrorism, not just to sensational symbols like Osama bin Laden.

Above: Osama bin Laden (1957 – 2011)

Bring the murderers to justice, but tackle the causes of these outrages“, the 14 September London Independent opined.

In Germany, the conservative tabloid Bild gave space to pacific as well as belligerent viewpoints.

One article quoted a German businessman’s letter to President Bush urging him to “punish the guilty, not the innocent women and children of Afghanistan“.

In the US, by contrast, the news media’s pronouncements were indistinguishable from the government’s.

Neither showed tolerance for anything less than full-throated outrage.

Correspondents wore American flag pins and civilian deaths in Afghanistan were dismissed as unworthy of news coverage.

Above: Flag of Afghanistan

When the American media finally examined the question of how the US appeared to the rest of the world, that richly complex subject was reduced to simplistic melodrama.

Above: Raising the flag at Ground Zero, 11 September 2001

Anyone voicing the opinions expressed by the Independent or Bild was accused of treasonous nonsense, as writer Susan Sontag discovered when she published an article in the New Yorker pointing out that American foreign policy had wreaked terrible damage on other countries in the past, so why all the surprise at being targeted now?

Above: Susan Sontag (1933 – 2004)

We need at all costs to understand.

We need to consider even explanations that may not flatter us.

We need to recognize that there is a crucial difference between explaining a given action and excusing that action.

The US in no way deserved 9/11.

There is never any excuse for terrorism.

That being said, the attacks will never be understood outside the context of American foreign policy and the resentment it engenders.

There are numerous global hot spots where US policies, rightly or wrongly, are controversial enough to feed rage.

Americans need reminding that they need to have an honest discussion about their conduct overseas.

Where is it wise?

Where is it unwise?

How often does it correspond to the values of democracy and freedom that they regularly invoke?

How important is it whether Americans practice what they preach?

If Americans want a healthy relationship with the six billion people they share the planet with, we all need to understand how we all are, how we all live, how we all think, and why.

45% of humanity lives on less than $2.00 a day.

Peace and prosperity are unlikely under such conditions.

The CIA itself has warned:

Groups feeling left behind by widening inequality will foster political, ethnic, ideological and religious extremism, along with the violence that accompanies it.

Foreigners have no less a stake in better understanding the United States.

At a time when the US and the rest of the world are increasingly intertwined through economics and technology, we still gaze at each other in mutual incomprehension.

How, foreigners ask, can America be so powerful yet so naive?

So ignorant of foreign nations, peoples and languages, and yet so certain that it knows what is best for everyone?

How can its citizens be so open and generous but its foreign policy so domineering?

Why is it shocked when the objects of its policies grumble or even strike back?

Americans should remain awed and fight to protect its founding ideals, but politically they live in a democracy that barely deserves the name.

The government lectures others on how to run elections, yet many Americans don’t vote.

The American economy is undemocratic, for many Americans feel alienated from a political system they correctly perceive as captive to the rich and powerful.

America is more and more divided between an elite that lives in cloistered luxury and a poor and middle class doomed to work hard but never get ahead.

American governments say they stand for freedom and sometimes they do.

But often they can be shamelessly hypocritical, siding with treacherous dictatorships that serve their perceived interests and overthrowing democracies that do not.

The United States has much to be proud of – and much to be ashamed of.

Just as any other nation, including my own.

If we face up to this unsurprising but powerful truth then we will begin to understand.

If we insist that we ignore our faults – and label anyone who refuses to be silent, a traitor – then we will never learn from our mistakes.

Uncomfortable truths do not go away just because powerful voices want them shouted down.

Inconvenient truths do not disappear just because we choose to ignore them.

I don’t pretend to understand America and I believe many Americans themselves don’t understand America.

As American writer John Steinbeck wrote:

The United States is complicated, paradoxical, bullheaded, shy, cruel, boisterous, unspeakably dear and very beautiful.

Above: John Steinbeck (1902 – 1968)

As the global outpouring of sympathy following 9/11 illustrated, the rest of the world harbours great affection for Americans along with other, less enthusiastic feelings.

The vast majority of foreigners differentiate between Americans as people – whom they generally like – and American power and foreign policy, which are far less admired.

Most foreigners recognize plainly enough that it is in their own interest to understand America as clearly as possible, because what the American government decides about economic policy, military action and cultural mores affect everyone everywhere.

Americans need to educate themselves about the values they claim to espouse and hold those values dear.

Americans need to educate themselves about the world as it is rather than what they think it should be.

The world is watching.

I think we need to relish nostalgia – the nostalgia of the library, the nostalgia of the walk.

Learn from history.

Knowledge is our salvation.

Our voices united is an expression of that knowledge.

Nostalgia might be our salvation.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Rolf Dobelli, Stop Reading the News / Graeme Garrard and James Bernard Murphy, How to Think Politically / Ronald Gross, The Independent Scholar’s Handbook / Don Henley, Dirty Laundry (song) / Mark Hertsgaard, The Eagle’s Shadow / Bill Mayer, “Democracy’s Deathbed“, Real Time, 5 November 2022 / Hilary Reid, “Too much screen time? Landline phones offer a lifeline“, New York Times, 22 March 2022 / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust

 

Ten reasons not to….

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Monday 31 October 2022

In an early 2022 video about his home state, a Dallas estate agent named Richard Soto offered all those thinking of moving to Texas a few home truths about the place.

If you like breathtaking views, Texas really isn’t going to offer that.“, Soto declared.

Texas is very flat, the landscape is kind of boring.

There was the Texas Hill Country, Soto said, but it was not much to look at.

Above: Hill Country State Natural Area in Bandera County, Texas

Soto added that:

Everything is bigger in Texas and that includes its people.

The state had “an issue with obesity“.

Texas drivers were awfully aggressive, the August heat was almost unbearable, and “most people have more guns than they do family members“.

Above: Flag of Texas

This was not a suicide note.

In the midst of a great migration of Americans from California and the cities of the Eastern Seaboard, estate agents in places like Texas who once made it their business to say nice things about their home states, have begun offering the unvarnished truth….

Above: Official seal of the State of Texas

Is there a lot of cultural diversity in Northern Idaho?“, an estate agent named Jackson Wilkey asked, rather pointedly, in a video offering ten reasons why viewers might not want to move there.

Above: Flag of Idaho

You have probably read things.“, Wilkey added, an apparent reference to the days when the area was a base for the white supremacist group Aryan Nations.

It’s a little bit of a stain on our past.“, Conor Hammons, a fellow estate agent, added.

Above: Flag of the Aryan Nations

Just look anywhere in the country and you can find ugliness.

Things were improving, Hammons said, but it was not exactly Seattle.

Above: Seattle, Washington

Hammons and Wilkey tackled this sensitive subject in a video titled:

Ten reasons NOT to move to Idaho“.

Among the other downsides, the dining scene was limited, there was no airport, and though spring was gorgeous, “with that comes the pine pollen“, Hammons said.

Nor was it actually as cheap as you might think.

We have been discovered.“, Hammons added.

Above: Official seal of the State of Idaho

The American populace is less mobile than in the 1960s, when about 20% would move in any given year.

That figure has fallen steadily since then to 8.4% in 2021.

But within the past two years, there have been broader movements to the suburbs, to the South, and to places such as Dallas or Colorado Springs or Boise, Idaho….

Above: Dallas, Texas

Above: Colorado Springs, Colorado

Above: Boise, Idaho

This article bothers me on many levels.

Many people miss out on interesting places because of misconceptions or simply because they are unaware of the positive possibilities of these places.

This seems strange when the world of travel has opened up so dramatically in the past century, offering a wealth of new destinations.

We are constantly bombarded with travel information by TV programs, newspaper and magazine articles, books and the Internet.

However, despite having so many travel choices and so much information, many people head to the same limited handful of places year after year after year.

Above: Paris, France

The vast majority of Brits spend foreign holidays in France, Spain, Greece and Florida.

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland

As for Americans, many do not even own a passport and therefore cannot travel abroad.

Only 14% of Americans have passports.

While those Americans that do have a passport stick to Canada, Mexico and the Caribbean, because they are close by in the neighbourhood.

Americans not only don’t know much about the rest of the world.

They simply don’t care.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

For many North Americans and Europeans, travelling still means seeing if you can eat five meals a day and still snorkel when the fancy white cruise ship gets into port.

Along with our excess baggage, we tend to bring along knee-jerk assumptions about what we expect to encounter beyond our personal experience.

Sometimes these can be helpful – (Remember to drive on the left in Britain.) – but other times they can interfere with our ability to fully engage with a place on its own terms.

I worry that the mainstream tourist industry encourages us to be dumbed down.

To many people, travel is only about having fun in the sun, shopping duty free, and cashing in frequent flyer miles.

But to me, that stuff distracts us from the real thrills, rewards and values of travel.

In our travels – in our everyday lives – we should become more educated and engaged.

The more you know, the more you strive to learn, the richer your life becomes.

Above: Niligiri Mountain Train, India

Fear has always been a barrier to travel.

After 9/11, the US became even more fearful, more isolated.

Above: Plumes of smoke billow from the World Trade Center towers, New York City, 11 September 2001

Of course, there are serious risks that deserve our careful attention, but it is all too easy to mistake fear for actual danger.

US President Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s assertion that we have nothing to fear but fear itself is just as relevant today as when he first said it in 1933.

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945) (US President: 1933 – 1945)

History is rife with examples of leaders who manipulate fear to distract, mislead and undermine the will of the very people who entrusted them with power.

My travels have taught me to have a healthy skepticism towards those who peddle fear.

I have learned that the flipside of fear is understanding.

Statistically, even in the most sobering days of post-9/11 and post-pandemic anxiety, travel to most international destinations remains no more dangerous than a drive to your neighbourhood mall.

Why do we react so strongly to these events?

The mainstream media are partly to blame.

Sensationalizing tragedy gets more eyes on the news, but it also exaggerates the impact of a disaster, causing viewers to overreact.

The media distorts the event in their minds.

Fear has become feisty in our society.

But we have a choice whether or not to be afraid.

Terrorism is designed to be emotional and frighten the masses, but we need to distinguish between the fear and the actual danger.

People who have borne witness to terrorism, as a matter of principle, refuse to be terrorized.

People mourn the tragedy even as they keep it in perspective.

Life goes on.

If the goal of terrorists is to terrify us into submission, then those who refuse to become fearful stand defiantly against them.

The most disconcerting result of terrorism is that those very people who would benefit the most from travel – those who needlessly fear people and places they do not understand – decide to stay home.

The most powerful thing an individual can do to fight fear is to travel a lot, learn about the world, come home with a new perspective and then work to help your home fit more comfortably and less fearfully into this planet.

If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.

(James Michener)

Above: American writer James Michener (1907 – 1997)

For most people around the world, America is more a mental image than a real place.

Americans, foreigners are not always right about America, far from it, but neither are they just embittered fanatics or jealous of your wealth or resentful of your power or animated by any of the stock explanations that the mainstream media or pundits or politicians have advanced as substitutes for self-examination.

Most foreigners are sophisticated enough to see both the good and the bad about America, which is why Americans can learn from their perceptions, if they choose to.

Foreigners can see things about America that natives cannot and if there ever was a time when Americans needed such perspective, it is now.

Just as there is no contradiction for Americans to criticize America one minute and praise it the next, such is so for foreigners.

It is in this diversity that makes the world, all of the world, home and abroad, so fascinating.

It is in travelling the world, all of the world, both home and abroad, that we gather a complex catalogue of impressions, impressions that we must confront for what they are, so we can transcend fear and tragedy, and understand our place in the 21st century.

Wherever we look, America is in our face.

American movies, TV, music, fashion and food have captivated us, especially America’s most important export:

Its consumer lifestyle and the individualism it promotes.

Above: Logo of American fast food chain McDonald’s

The Internet, computers and other high-tech gadgets revolutionizing daily life all over the planet either originated in the US or found their fullest development there.

Above: Share of the world’s population using the Internet

America’s nuclear arsenal has held life-and-death power over humanity since the bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki in 1945.

Above: Mushroom cloud formed by the Trinity Experiment in July 1945, part of the Manhattan Project, the first detonation of a nuclear weapon in history

For even longer, the US economy has been the world’s main engine of growth and innovation.

The US remains today the “buyer of last resort” whose imports spell the difference between recession and prosperity for rich and poor nations alike.

To top it all off, America receives a disproportionate amount of coverage from news media around the world, reinforcing foreigners’ sense of living always in America’s shadow.

While Americans have traditionally cared little about what foreigners think about them.

There are understandable reasons for Americans’ lack of interest in the outside world, starting with geography.

Because the US is so immense and protected on two sides by oceans, the rest of the world seems far away.

Many Americans lack the sense, so common on other continents, that foreign peoples with different languages, cultures and beliefs live just over the next ridge or across the river.

Americans’ mind-boggling abundance (compared with many other countries) also helps encourage a complacent isolationism.

Why bother with the rest of the world when, as Linda Ronstadt sings:

Everything you want, we got it right here in the USA.

Above: Linda Ronstadt

Like Mark Hertsgaard, I have long felt baffled and disappointed by Americans’ lack of curiosity about the world.

Baffled, because I myself find the rest of the world so fascinating.

Disappointed, because I think ignorance of the world reflects badly on Americans.

Travelling the world has taught me that Americans have no monopoly on parochialism and self-centredness.

The difference is, Americans are parochial and self-centred at the same time as they are the mightiest power in history.

What America’s political, military, economic, cultural and scientific institutions do has a decisive influence on the lives of people everywhere on Earth.

But with power comes responsibility.

American indifference to the world seems wrong.

Having so much power over others and not caring more about how it is exercised.

As the richest, most powerful nation in history, the US could do what it wanted, when it wanted.

Above: Coat of arms of the United States of America

But that invincible image never matched reality.

Remember the Vietnam War?

Above: Images of the Vietnam War (1955 – 1975)

Gasoline lines after the OPEC oil embargo in the 1970s?

Above: Flag of the Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC)

The rise in the global cost of living as a result of the Russian invasion of the Ukraine?

The Iranian hostage crisis?

Above: Iranian hostage crisis (4 November 1979 – 20 January 1981)

Iranian students climb up US embassy gates in Tehran, 4 November 1979

Remember the pandemic?

But as a people forever fixated on the promise of a better tomorrow, Americans are barely familiar with their own history, much less anyone else’s.

Americans were raised to be so proud of Nathan Hale and Patrick Henry and Ethan Allen – patriotic heroes of America’s Revolutionary War who wished that they had more than one life to give for their country.

Travel and you will learn that Hales and Henrys and Allens are a dime a dozen on this planet.

Each country has their own versions.

Above: Statue of Nathan Hale (1755 – 1776), City Hall Park, New York City

Nathan Hale was an officer for the Continental Army (1775 – 1783) during the American Revolutionary War (1775 – 1783).

Widely considered America’s first spy, he volunteered for an intelligence-gathering mission, but was caught by the British and hanged.

Above: Patrick Henry (1736 – 1799)

Patrick Henry was an American attorney, planter, politician and orator known for declaring to the Second Virginia Convention (1775):

Give me liberty or give me death!

He served as Governor of Virginia (1776 – 1779 / 1784 – 1786).

Above: 1875 engraving depicting the capture of Fort Ticonderoga (NY) by Ethan Allen on 10 May 1775

Ethan Allen (1738 – 1789) was an American farmer, businessman, land speculator, philosopher, writer, lay theologian, American Revolutionary War soldier and politician.

He is best known as one of the founders of Vermont and for the capture of Fort Ticonderoga early in the Revolutionary War.

The US continues to underestimate the spine of other nations.

It is comforting to think that they can simply “shock-and-awe” the enemy into compliance.

Above: The bombing of Nagasaki, Japan – 11:02 am, 9 August 1945

According to its original theorists, shock and awe renders an adversary unwilling to resist through overwhelming displays of power.

The atomic bombings of Hiroshima (6 August 1945, 8:15 a.m.) and Nagasaki are cited as an example of shock and awe.

But America does not have the monopoly on bravery or grit.

In fact, in some ways, Americans might be less feisty than hardscrabble emerging nations that have to scratch and claw for their very survival.

Travel reminds us that the world is filled with people with spine motivated by passions and beliefs we might not even know exist, much less understand.

Travel teaches us that the vast majority of humanity is raised with a different view of ourselves than that of our self-perceptions of being smart, generous and free.

We all need to go beyond our comfort zone of preconceptions.

We need to choose to be challenged.

We need to develop instinct, insight, imagination and enthusiasm.

We need to not only see and hear the world through audiovisual means, we need to travel so we can investigate and interpret and try to understand.

It is not enough to understand who is in the world and how they do things, but more importantly we need to understand why, so we can see relevance and perspective in our struggles, in their struggles, for that ever elusive thing called happiness.

Life is meant to be a participation sport.

There is so much to see, hear, smell, taste, touch, know and enjoy.

We should always be exploring, sampling the action, seeing for ourselves why life is worth living.

We need to remain alert and aware, continually searching for ideas and information.

To be alert and aware is to be fully alive.

Look for the universal within the specific, whether you are at home or abroad.

Above: A graphic representation of an IDIC pendant

In Star Trek, the IDIC (Infinite Diversity in Infinite Combinations) was a symbol of Vulcan equality philosophy.

Notice the world and take note of its beauty.

Observe the trees and shrubs and flowers.

Notice with all our senses.

The well-kept or weed-filled gardens, the plants in the window boxes, the trash on the sidewalk, the animals wandering the streets, the iron bars on downstairs windows, the street peddlers, the clear chorus of cathedral bells, the hoarse groan of the foghorn, the echoing footsteps of the solitary walker, the cascading of stream water over rocks, the shrill sound of a single bagpipe at sunset, the call to prayer five times a day, the feel of cobblestone beneath the feet, the pattern of a New Orleans balcony rail or an Arizona pueblo beneath our fingers, the roughness of seawall stone against our skin, the smells of fish frying and damp wool and burning temple incense and cedar trees and hot tar, the taste of clam chowder and reindeer steak and shark’s fin soup and borscht, sushi at a standup counter, tamales on the street corner, coconut milk on a palm-shaded beach…..

To be alert and aware with all our senses is to be fully alive.

The true treasure of travelling is that it is the unpredictable incidents that add up to a life, the incalculable experiences that give life value.

The random, the unscreened, allows you to find what you didn’t know you were looking for.

You don’t know a place until it surprises you.

And it is this, this lack of belief in serendipity, this assumption that presumption trumps surprise is what bothers me about the abovementioned article.

I am bothered by the notion that a flat landscape cannot be breathtaking, cannot be beautiful, that flat must be by its very nature boring, is to rob Texas, the Netherlands, Saskatchewan, Kansas, the steppes of Mongolia of all their inherent splendour.

I am bothered by the notion that a person is not inherently noteworthy should their body not meet magazine standards is to rob a person of their self-confidence that an individual’s life has merit regardless of the packaging with which it is enveloped.

I am bothered by the notion that driving aggressively is somehow unique to Texas.

I am bothered by the notion that August heat in Texas is somehow superior and more insufferable to that of other places such as African or Arabian deserts.

Above: The Sahara Desert

And let us consider the insanity of the observation that there are more Texan handguns than there are Texans.

More than 13,000 people die every year in America because of handguns.

Americans make the case that this is a reasonable price to pay for the precious right to bear arms.

Americans argue that they are a free and well-educated democracy, that the loss of lives is a reasonable trade-off for enjoying their Second Amendment right, this notion that America has a monopoly on freedom because they have firearms to protect that freedom.

Above: Page 1 of the Constitution of the United States of America

If Americans could dispassionately survey the situation, they might acknowledge the human cost of their aggressive stance at home and across the planet.

Perhaps this is why 300 million Americans are seen by the rest of the world as an empire despite its democratic pretensions.

Europeans (who suffer less than 25% per capita the gun killings Americans do) laugh out loud when they hear that Americans are staying home for safety reasons.

If Americans truly care about their loved ones, they would realize that America is far more dangerous than many other countries and they would all move to Europe tomorrow.

Above: Flag of the European Union

The Four Freedoms as articulated by the aforementioned FDR – freedom of speech, freedom of worship, freedom from want, freedom from fear – are neither uniquely American nor universally practiced in America.

How free is speech if offensive opinions can be intimidated by a gun?

How free is worship if differing religious belief is countered by fear and violence?

How free from want are Americans if the gap between Have and Have Not leads to increased fear and violence?

How free from fear is America truly?

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial, Washington DC

From The Newsroom (2012 – 2014 TV series):

Will McAvoy: And with a straight face, you’re gonna tell students that America’s so star-spangled awesome, that we’re the only ones in the world who have freedom?

Above: William McAvoy (Jeff Daniels), The Newsroom

Canada has freedom,

Above: Flag of Canada

Japan has freedom, the UK, France, Italy, Germany, Spain, Australia, Belgium has freedom. [laughs]

 Above: Flag of Japan

Above: Flag of France

Above: Flag of Italy

Above: Flag of Germany

Above: Flag of Spain

Above: Flag of Australia

Above: Flag of Belgium

So, 207 sovereign states in the world, like 180 of them have freedom.

Above: Flag of the United Nations

 

And yeah, you, sorority girl.

Above: “Sorority GirlJenna Johnson (Riley Voelkel), The Newsroom

Just in case you accidentally wander into a voting booth one day, there’s some things you should know, and one of them is, there’s absolutely no evidence to support the statement that we’re the greatest country in the world.

We’re 7th in literacy, 27th in math, 22nd in science, 49th in life expectancy, 178th in infant mortality, 3rd in median household income, number 4 in labor force, and number 4 in exports.

We lead the world in only three categories:

  • number of incarcerated citizens per capita
  • number of adults who believe angels are real
  • and defense spending, where we spend more than the next 26 countries combined – 25 of whom are allies.

Above: Total US incarceration by year

Above: Gustav Doré’s Jacob Wrestling with the Angel (1855)

Above: The Pentagon, HQ of the US Department of Defense, Arlington, Virginia

Now, none of this is the fault of a 20 year old college student.

But you, nonetheless, are, without a doubt, a member of the worst, period, generation, period, ever, period, so when you ask:

What makes us the greatest country in the world?

I don’t know what the fuck you’re talking about!

Yosemite? 

Above: Yosemite Valley, Yosemite National Park, California

[Pause] 

It sure used to be.

We stood up for what was right.

We fought for moral reasons, we passed laws, struck down laws for moral reasons, we waged wars on poverty, not poor people.

We sacrificed, we cared about our neighbors.

We put our money where our mouths were, and we never beat our chest.

We built great big things, made ungodly technological advances, explored the universe, cured diseases, and we cultivated the world’s greatest artists and the world’s greatest economy.

We reached for the stars, acted like men.

We aspired to intelligence, we didn’t belittle it, it didn’t make us feel inferior.

We didn’t identify ourselves by who we voted for in our last election, and we didn’t [sighs] we didn’t scare so easy

Huh.

We were able to be all these things, and to do all these things, because we were informed.

By great men, men who were revered.

First step in solving any problem is recognizing there is one.

America is not the greatest country in the world anymore.

Above: MacKenzie “Mac” Morgan McHale (Emily Mortimer), The Newsroom

The aforementioned article bothers me with the notion that folks of northern Idaho would deliberately promote reasons not to come there.

Above: Location of Idaho in red

Idaho’s nickname is “The Gem State” although the motto on the state’s license plates reads “Famous Potatoes“.

Unfortunately, as a result, people imagine the state as a vast expanse of potato farms, with grizzled inhabitants living in cabins with no running water.

In reality, Idaho is a mix of both city and rural life.

Some Idahoans do indeed live in cabins in the middle of nowhere, but others live in urbane condominiums in downtown Boise.

Indeed, Boise is now the largest metropolitan area in the Rocky Mountains region of the US outside of Colorado.

Above: Idaho State Capitol, Boise, Idaho

Most of the other major cities in Idaho have also experienced significant growth over the past 20 years.

Idaho is typical of several other western states, e.g., Oregon, Washington, and California, in that there are really two types of travel destinations in one state.

The northern part of Idaho is characterized by mountains, lakes, forests and rivers.

Above: Selway Crags, Idaho

While the southern half has some spectacular mountains (the Owyhees and parts of the Tetons), it is mostly high-plains desert similar to parts of southern California.

Above: Yellowstone National Park, Idaho sector

Most of the world-famous Idaho potatoes are grown in Eastern Idaho.

Onions are an important cash crop in southwestern Idaho near the Oregon border, while sugar beets are prevalent in the Twin Falls area.

As many crops are irrigated in the otherwise arid Snake River Plain, water is an extremely important and potentially explosive political issue in Idaho.

Above: Snake River Plain, Idaho

North Idaho farming is characterized by dry land wheat, barley, and legume crops.

Logging is also a big part of the North Idaho economy, although not as much as in the past.

A favorite bumper sticker in north Idaho is:

If you don’t like logging, try using plastic bags for toilet paper.”

Similar to Washington and Oregon, there is a great disparity in the population of each half of the state.

North Idaho is significantly less populated than the southern half.

Idaho is second only to Utah in the number of members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter day Saints, or Mormons, as a percentage of the population.

Mormon religion and culture are particularly prevalent in Eastern Idaho, where the faith is at least as strong as anywhere in Utah.

However, the LDS Church’s influence diminishes considerably as one travels north of Boise towards the Panhandle.

Above: Salt Lake Temple, Salt Lake City, Utah

Southern Idaho is home to one of the largest populations of Basque people in the world outside the Basque Country itself.

Public displays of Ikurriña flags and car stickers are somewhat common, even in rural areas.

The state even issues a Basque specialty automobile license plate.

Next scheduled for 2025, a major Basque festival known as Jaialdi is celebrated in Boise every five years.

Above: Flag of the Basque Country

A common misconception is that Idaho is somehow a racist or Neo-Nazi state.

Around 1980, a Neo-Nazi and white separatist brought a band of followers to Hayden Lake near Coeur d’Alene and began regularly making the local and national news with his racist provocations.

Although the local residents vigorously disapproved and regularly held much bigger counter-demonstrations, the Neo-Nazi image has stuck.

Idahoans breathed a collective sigh of relief in 2001 when the 20-acre compound owned by the “church” was handed over to a woman who had filed a lawsuit against them after being assaulted by their guards, and many of the racists left the state.

Above: The late Richard Butler (1908 – 2004), center, founder of the Aryan Nations sect, salutes along with other members of the neo-Nazi group during a rally in Coeur d’ Alene, Idaho, in 1999.

The Aryan Nations is long gone from northern Idaho, but its reputation lingers to the chagrin of locals.

Southeastern Idaho, with its sparse topsoil, was greatly affected by the rising water level of prehistoric Lake Bonneville to the south, a lake which covered most of what is now the states of Utah and Nevada.

At Red Rock Pass south of Pocatello, the rising waters broke through into the region in an ancient, massive flood, channeling the floodwater westward for what is estimated to have lasted for approximately seven weeks, almost completely draining the ancient lake and creating the massive, lengthy, and spectacular Snake River Canyon that we know today.

The massive flood stripped the region’s topsoil down to bedrock, tumbling huge, multi-story high boulders downstream, where eventually the boulders and other heavier materials dropped out and were deposited in and along the Snake River streambed.

The stripped topsoil, a much lighter material, eventually was deposited well to the west, creating fertile farming regions well adapted to growing potatoes.

Because of the great flood and the stripping of the region’s topsoil, much of the agriculture in southeastern Idaho’s thin layer of topsoil must be supported by fertilization as well as irrigation.

Above: Snake River Canyon, Idaho

It is true.

There are no direct international flights into or out of anywhere in Idaho.

If you’re coming in from overseas, rest assured you’ll go through United States customs before boarding a flight to an Idaho location.

But this is not to say that Idaho is completely lacking in any airports at all.

There is Boise Airport, Idaho Falls Airport, Friedman Memorial Airport near Sun Valley, and smaller airports in Lewiston, Twin Falls and Pocatello.

Above: Boise Airport

Above: Lewiston, Idaho

It bothers me that some folks in Texas and Idaho cannot appreciate the beauty and privilege that surrounds them.

The article’s estate agents should really look at the land they seek to sell.

They need to come out of their prejudices and begin to notice everything around them.

When you give yourself to a place, it gives you yourself back to you.

The more one comes to know a place, the more one seeds it with an invisible crop of memories and associations to which one can find waiting upon the return.

Seeing an old place with new eyes, with alertness and awareness, gives a place and its discoverer new life, offering up new thoughts and new possibilities.

Exploring the world is one of the best ways of exploring the mind and finding one’s soul, one’s humanity.

These estate agents need to meet the local people, taste the flavour of their communities, to grasp people’s relationships with one another, their relationship to their government, their relationship to the rest of the world, whether they live in august mansions crumbling in shabby gentility or in overcrowded apartments with wall-to-wall sleeping bags.

Sit down with these folks, listen to how they speak, play where they play, eat where they eat, seek out old-timers to learn about old times, picnic in the park, shop where they shop, soak up local colour at laundromats and shops.

Join the congregation and see the divine in the human.

Attend a prayer meeting in a Turkish mosque, a christening in a Greek church, a coming-of-age ceremony at St. Peter’s, the humility of the faithful at Jerusalem’s Wailing Wall, a Buddhist funeral in Japan, a Presbyterian wedding in Brisbane.

Above: Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Türkiye

Above: Christening, Greece

Above: St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City

Above: Western (Wailing) Wall, Jerusalem, Israel

Above: Buddhist funeral, Japan

Above: Wedding, St. Anne Presbyterian Church, Brisbane, Australia

See the people around you, how they act, how they react.

Bear witness to a ball game and find the inner child within at the circus.

The best part of participating in local entertainment is your opportunity to see people relaxed and having a good time.

Watch them, talk to them, join them.

Experience their joy, fear, amusement, grief, devotion, satisfaction, anxiety.

Life is a participation sport.

Make use of every person-to-person opportunity.

Get lost in the lives of others and find yourself.

The more people you talk to, the better feel you get for the place.

The more you know the place, the better you will understand it and your place in the world.

Look, think, be alert, be aware, live.

The real journey is within.

You don’t have to travel to exotic places to travel.

The universal is in the specific.

What is at home is exotic, if seen with eyes alert and aware to the adventure of existence.

Sadly, some people travel the world but never leave home.

They follow Frommer’s advice for weeks, but don’t find any ice cream they like as well as Lowe’s Dairy in Lachute.

Above: American travel writer Arthur Frommer

Above: Lowe’s Dairy, Lachute, Québec

The Black Forest cannot compare with the woods of the Lower Laurentians.

Above: Black Forest, Germany

Above: Pine Hill, Brownsburg-Chatham, Québec, Canada

Arlington Cemetery is only a larger version of Ogdensburg Cemetery in the hills above the childhood house.

Above: Arlington Cemetery, Virginia

Above: Ogdensburg Cemetery, Brownsburg-Chatham, Québec

Saks Fifth Avenue doesn’t have a thing better than the stalls of the Lachute Farmers Market every week.

We went around the world.

We didn’t like it.

There’s no place like home.

Above: Saks Fifth Avenue, Manhattan, New York City

Above: Lachute Farmers Market, Lachute, Québec

The traveller celebrates the differences, the love found in learning lifestyles, the adoration of the unique and individual.

For, in the words of Emerson:

Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not.

Above: Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803 – 1882)

And this is what bothers me most of all.

That there are those who cannot see the beauty of Boise.

Above: Ann Morrison Park, Boise, Idaho

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Graeme Chesters, How to Avoid Holiday and Travel Disasters: A Survival Handbook / Rolf Dobelli, Stop Reading the News: A Manifesto for a Happier, Calmer and Wiser Life / Mark Hertsgaard, The Eagle’s Shadow: Why America Fascinates and Infuriates the World / Will Pavia, “Estate agent says Texas is hot, flat, and folk are fat“, The Times, 9 February 2022 / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Louise Purwin Zobel, The Travel Writer’s Handbook: How to Write and Sell Your Own Travel Experiences

Canada Slim at the Zoo

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Monday 8 August 2022

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Türkiye

Two days I returned from travelling in Switzerland, Germany and Malta.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Above: Flag of Germany

Above: Flag of Malta

What defines a person’s travelling, a person’s life, is not only the things they decided to do, but as well the things they decide (or are unable) to do.

I consider Malta.

Above: Coat of arms of Malta

We visited, and used as a travel base, Valletta.

Above: Valletta, Malta Island, Malta

We visited Vittoriosa, Sliema, Paola, Marsaxlokk, Rabat and Mdina on the island of Malta itself.

Above: Vittoriosa, Malta Island, Malta

Above: Images of Sliema, Malta Island, Malta

Above: Paola, Malta Island, Malta

Above: Images of Marsaxlokk, Malta Island, Malta

Above: Collegiate Basilica of St. Paul, Rabat, Malta Island, Malta

Above: Mdina, Malta Island, Malta

Above: Topographical map of the nation of Malta

We visited Victoria and Marsalforn on the island of Gozo.

Above: Victoria (Rabat), Gozo Island, Malta

Above: Marsalforn, Gozo Island, Malta

The list of what we saw in all these places is worthy of many blogposts so I will not list these all here.

Suffice to say that choices, determined by both limited time and money, had to be made as to what we would see and what we wouldn’t see.

We ate well, slept well, saw and did many wonderful things.

What was rarely seen during our stay in Malta were stray animals.

We saw some in the San Anton Gardens, attached to the same-named Palace, in Attard.

Above: San Anton Palace Gardens, Attard, Malta Island, Malta

The early 17th century Palace once served as the official residence of the British Governor of Malta and is now that of the Maltese President.

Above: San Anton Presidential Palace, Attard, Malta Island, Malta

The lovely walled Gardens contain groves of citrus and avocado as well as an aviary.

Wandering at will through the Gardens were pigeons, doves, peacocks, ducks and cats.

Though we were in Marsaxlokk, close to St. Peter’s Pool, one of the most beautiful and stunning natural swimming spots that the Maltese littoral has to offer, it was rather remote and hard to access, which is sad, for we missed an opportunity to see the dynamic duo of Carmelo Abela and Titti.

Above: St. Peter’s Pool, Malta Island, Malta

Abela and his pet, a Jack Russell terrier called Titti, became famous after a video of their perfectly coordinated synchronized dives went viral worldwide.

The dog never hesitates to leap off 12-foot cliffs, perfectly breaking the surface of the water together with her loving and devoted provider.

Abela and Titti go down to St. Peter’s Pool almost everyday in summer, (the temperature was a constant 33°C when we were there), where locals and foreigners alike hope to see them perform and maybe get a picture of the famous airborne dog.

Titti is a loyal dog and will only jump with her provider, Abela says.

Totally enamoured with the sea, she barely gives him time to get off his motorbike before she runs off and leaps off the edge into the gin-clear waters.

Titti is adored by everybody who sees her.

She even has her own Facebook page.

I don’t envy Abela’s ability to train Titti.

I envy him the love and loyalty that Titti shows him.

Denizli, Türkiye, Friday 23 July 2022

The bus is late, ETA was 1800, it is nearly 1830.

I don’t care, for on the benches where passengers wait for their buses, a kitten stretches.

I pet and stroke it.

To my surprise and delight it jumps upon my lap, stretches up across my chest and nuzzles its head in the crook of my arm.

It is love, instant and pure.

I feel like a royal bastard, picking it off me, putting back on the bench where I found it, and boarding the bus back to Eskişehir.

Above: Bus terminal, Denizli, Türkiye

Above: The kitten king of Denizli

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Saturday 23 July 2022

The cat had its revenge, kitten’s karma.

After dinner stopover of 30 minutes in Uşak, the journey back to Eskişehir and my apartment therein was unpleasant.

Above: Cilandiras Bridge, Uşak, Türkiye

A sour puss of a passenger sits beside me and promptly falls asleep, snoring loudly.

The TV console built into the back of the seat in front of me does not function.

The roaming option on my cellphone expired mid-journey.

A manly woman (transgender?) shouts into her phone loudly.

She is heard by everyone except maybe a man in a coma in Dubai.

I miss the days when the only ways to talk on the phone were from home or at a curb telephone booth.

Instead we are all one miserable captive collective, forced to listen to the mutterings of the mad, the loud lout lunatics and the exclamations of the exasperated emotional expressive.

Above: Logo of Kämil Koç buslines (Denizli – Eskişehir)

The final fatal feeling was the man I call the Taxi Nazi.

He is possibly the only taxi driver in Türkiye who still wears a protective face mask, who insists passengers wear their seat belts, whose shotgun seat does not slide backwards, meaning a tall man like myself sits uncomfortably cramped beside the driver, who is unfriendly and impersonal as an IRS agent at your door requesting an audit of your delinquent taxes.

I once again deny him extra fare and have him stop several blocks away from my apartment.

Above: Flag of Nazi Party (1920 – 1945)

Above: Logo of the US Internal Revenue Service (IRS)

Morning comes.

I have an appointment to pick up dry cleaning from a shop close to my old apartment near ES Park shopping centre.

Above: ES Park, Eskişehir, Türkiye

The tie could be cleaned.

The stain on my recently-purchased (in Sinop) long-sleeved blue shirt is permanent.

Above: Sinop, Türkiye

I think of the cupboards bare in the apartment and I wait outside ES Park mall for it to open its doors so I can descend downstairs to Migros and buy some last minute groceries for the day and the next.

A quartet of dogs playfully scamper around me and the half dozen others waiting for security to grant us access to the mall’s interior.

Each dog in its turn seeks affection and attention from me.

I am soft-hearted.

I need love.

I need to love.

I need to be loved, if only by an animal.

Again, I do the bastard deed.

I walk away.

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Wednesday 27 July 2022

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Tomorrow, we (the wife and I) fly from Zürich, Switzerland to Valletta, Malta, and, of course, we have pondered what we will see when we get to this ocean paradise.

One attraction that is promoted on the islands that make up this Mediterranean nation is the L’Arka ta’ Noe (Noah’s Ark) – the largest zoo on the islands.

Siberian and Bengal tigers are an important highlight of the park. 

At L-Arka ta’ Noe, one can admire from a close distance three extremely unique tigers – the Golden Tabby, the pure white tiger, and a black and white tiger.

These adorable creatures will undoubtedly leave you with a remarkable smile. 

Above: L’Arka ta Noe, Triq Bur ix-Xewk, Siggiewi, Malta Island, Malta

I once again face a moral dilemma over this idea.

Above: The Thinker, Musée Rodin, Paris, France

From Warren Agius, https://www.change.org :

Before anyone considers going to l’Arka ta Noe, please keep these factors in mind.

I have no intentions on damaging their business, quite frankly I don’t care.

I only care about the well-being of the animals which are being held in that environment.

They do not deserve this ill-treatment and someone has to speak-up for them.

If you care about animals and their welfare in any way, please continue reading this post.

Just a bit of background information, l’Arka ta Noe has a lot of exotic animals.

The problem about this place is that these animals are not seen as living beings, but are seen as objects.

In fact, their own website says the following:

He started this magnificent park with only a few animals and at first it was only a private collection.”

That’s right, a collection.

And this is exactly how these animals are being treated, as a way to make money.

It is important to keep in mind the following:

  • Tigers are meant to HUNT for their food.

These tigers are fed by a person literally throwing pieces of meat on the floor.

  • The tigers cannot practice their natural instincts at all in such a confined and limited space.

There are three FULLY GROWN tigers in one enclosure.

It doesn’t matter if they are there for feeding or not.

Just one fully grown tiger travels approximately 16-32 km a day just to search for food.

  • Animals in captivity suffer from psychological distress.

When I visited the place, the tigers could be seen pacing back and forth and were aggressively jumping at the fence.

They did not seem healthy or happy at all.

This place does not resemble / imitate their original wild-life habitat AT ALL.

Hopefully, places like this one, which keep these beautiful animals in captivity, are punished for completely disregarding the animals’ well-being. 

zoo (short for zoological garden; also called an animal park or menagerie) is a facility in which animals are housed within enclosures, cared for, displayed to the public, and in some cases bred for conservation purposes.

The term zoological garden refers to zoology, the study of animals.

The term is derived from the Greek ζώονzoon, ‘animal‘, and the suffix -λογία-logia, ‘study of‘.

Above: Zoos around the world

The abbreviation zoo was first used by the London Zoological Gardens, which was opened for scientific study in 1828 and to the public in 1847. 

In the United States alone, zoos are visited by over 181 million people annually.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

The first zoos I ever visited were during my walking adventures back in my 20s – the Toronto Zoo and the Montréal Biodome.

Above: Montreal Biodome, Montréal, Québec, Canada

I have since then visited:

  • the Wildfowl and Wetland Trust, Slimbridge, Gloucestershire, England

Above: Wildfowl and Wetland Trust, Slimbridge, Gloucestershire, England

  • the Mundenhof Animal Park, Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

  • the Osnabrück Zoo, Osnabrück, Niedersachen, Germany

  • the Knies Kinderzoo, Rapperswil, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

  • Wildpark St. Peter und Paul, St. Gallen, Switzerland

Above: Logo of Wildpark Peter und Paul, St. Gallen

  • Zoo Basel, Basel, Switzerland

  • Zürich Zoologischer Garten, Switzerland

Above: Entrance of Zürich Zoo

  • Night Safari, Singapore

  • Perth Zoo, Western Australia

  • Walter Zoo, Gossau, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

The visit to this last aforementioned zoo, on 4 January 2022, is what has inspired this post.

Gossau, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland, Tuesday 4 January 2022

Above: Gossau, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

The Walter Zoo is a zoological garden above Gossau near the city of St. Gallen. 

It houses around 1,110 animals in over 120 animal species (2019). 

On the 5.5 hectare site there are also numerous play and relaxation options for children. 

The Zoo also has 4.5 hectares of adjacent land, which can be expanded over the next few years in accordance with the 2040 master plan. 

With around 250,000 visitors per year, the Walter Zoo is one of the most popular destinations in eastern Switzerland. 

As a scientifically run zoo, it is a member of EAZA and Zoo Schweiz, among others. 

In addition, it is involved in 21 (as of 2021) conservation breeding programs for endangered animal species and supports nature conservation projects in various countries financially.

Above: General map of the Walter Zoo

The Walter Zoo was founded in 1961 by Walter and Edith Pischl in Gossau.

After a few years as circus artists in the Nock Circus, Walter (from an Austrian artist dynasty) and Edith Pischl (born in Herisau) settled down with their animals in Hundwil. 

Above: Logo of Nock Circus (1860 – 2019)

Above: Herisau, Canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Switzerland

Above: Hundwil, Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Switzerland

Walter visited schools with the animals and gave lectures to make them better known to people. 

Above: Walter Pischl

Due to their growing reputation, more and more sick or unwanted animals were placed in the care of the Pischl family, which made space at their old place of residence in Hundwil tight and so the family moved to Gossau.

Due to the ever-increasing maintenance costs for facilities and feed, the family decided to charge admission. 

However, this hardly improved the financially difficult situation. 

Therefore, the Walter Zoo Association was founded in 1963 with the help of animal lovers.

The first house was built for the chimpanzees in 1973, it is now the oldest house in the zoo and is now used as a “Reptile House“. 

The current reptile house was built as the first house in 1973. 

Various reptiles and amphibians, such as Burmese pythons, guince monitors, stump crocodiles, Egyptian tortoises or moor frogs can be admired. 

Above: Burmese python

Above: Quince monitor

Above: Stump crocodiles

Above: Egyptian tortoise

Above: Moor frog

The upper, semi-open floor is inhabited by South American animal species, such as agoutis, white-headed sakis, two-toed sloths, globe armadillos and yellow-breasted macaws. 

Above: Agouti

Above: White-headed saki

Above: Two-toed sloth

Above: Armadillo

Above: Yellow-breasted macaw

In the adjacent tropical house, where the restaurant is located is home to animals such as: 

  • alligators

Above: Alligator

  • Emperor tamarins
Above: Emperor tamarin

  • jumping tamarins

Above: Jumping tamarin

  • night monkeys
Above: Night monkey

  • peacock rays

Above: Blue spotted stingray

  • crocodile tejus

Above: Caiman lizard

  • green anacondas

Above: Anaconda

Thanks to the Walter Zoo Verein, additional land could be purchased in 1980. 

In 1983, the hoofed animal stable and new bird aviaries were set up along the path.

In 1985, Walter and Edith Pischl handed over the zoo to Gabi (the youngest daughter) and Ernst Federer. 

Just one year later, the ground-breaking ceremony for the tropical house with the zoo restaurant followed.

The Walter Zoo opened the largest chimpanzee facility in Switzerland in 1993.

The facility is inhabited by 15 chimpanzees (as of 2021), making it the largest chimpanzee group in Switzerland.

In 1995, Walter Pischl died unexpectedly. 

He had a strong influence on the zoo until his last days. 

He was also significantly involved in the construction of the new, large chimpanzee enclosure, which began in 1993.

Above: Walter Pischl

In 1997, the Walter Zoo became a member of the European Association of Zoos and Aquaria (EAZA). 

This resulted in close cooperation with other zoos in Europe.

In 2001, the private zoo was converted into a public limited company (plc).

Since 2006, the Walter Zoo has been a non-profit corporation.

In 2009, the new tiger facility and the new octagonal office building with seminar and meeting rooms were opened. 

In addition, the restaurant Panorama, which is located just a few meters from the zoo, was taken over.

In 2011, the third generation joined the management with the two granddaughters of Walter Pischl, Karin Federer (veterinarian) and Jeannine Gleichmann-Federer (artist).

Between October 2012 and January 2013, the Body Worlds of Animals exhibition was held at the Zoo.

 

In 2013, the flamingo facility was renewed.

Above: Flamingos

In 2014, a new veterinary station was opened.

In 2015, the outdoor facility for the chimpanzees was renovated.

The Savannah House opened in 2017 and the new lion enclosure in autumn 2018. 

After more than ten years, when the lions were given away for the expansion of the tiger enclosures, lions came back to the Zoo. 

It is the near extinct subspecies of the Barbary lion. 

The Savannah House was opened with the focus on the savannah habitat. 

A large part is the meerkat enclosure, which the meerkats share with the spurred tortoises.

Above: Meerkats

Above: Spurred tortoise

But less well-known animals such as gundi, African egg snakes, naked mole rats or fennec can be admired. 

Above: A gundi

Above: Egg snake

Above: Naked mole rat

Above: Desert fox

However, the crowd favorite is the chameleon.

Above: Chameleon

With the opening of the new lion enclosure in autumn 2018, the lions came back. 

Three animals of the Barbary lions, now extinct in nature, inhabit the complex. 

Above: Barbary lion

The generously designed outdoor area is the heart of the new themed area, which visitors can see from several sides. 

The new zoo school was opened with the new lion enclosure.

The zoo school is located above the indoor area, which is connected to the outdoor area by a terrace. 

Above: The zoo school

Various animals are also integrated into the zoo school, from bacon beetles to giant centipedes and cockroaches to bearded dragons.

Above: Bacon beetle

Above: Centipede

Above: Cockroach

Above: Bearded dragon

Together with the lions, the tiger enclosure forms the heart of the predator enclosures at the Walter Zoo. 

The Siberian tiger is the largest subspecies of tigers. 

Young animals were born in 2018. 

Above: Siberian tiger

The keeping of Amur leopards was abandoned in 2021.

Above: Amur leopard

In the Petting Zoo, Bactrian camels, zebras and vicuñas, Shetland ponies and other hoofed animals can be admired and fed hay pellets. 

Above: Bactrian camel

Above: Zebra

Above: Vicuñas

Above: Shetland pony

Above: Hay pellets

With the African pygmy goats you can enter their enclosure to pet and feed them.

Above: African pygmy goats

The pond landscape in the northern part of the zoo offers space for various species of ducks, such as moor ducks, marmots, red-crested pochards and pintails. 

Above: Moor ducks

Above: Marmot / marble duck

Above: Red-crested pochard

Above: Pintail pair

The flamingos are also popular, with offspring having been successfully bred for the first time in 2018. 

There were youngsters again in 2019. 

Above: Baby flamingo

The walk-in aviary with galahs, budgies and horned parakeets is also popular.

Above: Galah

 

Above: Budgie

Above: Horned parakeet

Along with St. Gallen pigeons, yellow-breasted macaws, barn owls and desert buzzards are also trained. 

Above: St. Gallen pigeon

Above: Yellow-breasted macaw

Above: Barn owl

Above: Desert buzzard

This flight training can be admired on Wednesdays and Fridays in summer.

With the petting zoo, camel and pony rides, and the walk-in bird aviary, the Zoo’s offerings are strongly focused on families. 

From the end of March to mid-October, the Zoo Theater takes place with a program that changes every year. 

During the approximately one-hour performance, nature conservation issues are conveyed to children in an understandable way. 

During the winter months, the traditional Tingel-Tangel variety show offers entertainment for adults with a four-course meal. 

In summer it is also possible to stay in a tipi tent at the zoo and be guided through the Zoo at night and early in the morning.

The new logo, which the Zoo has had since spring 2020 and on which the chimpanzee has been replaced by a dragonfly in a meadow, is intended to illustrate the Zoo’s commitment to nature and species conservation. 

Like every scientifically managed zoo, the Walter Zoo also has a master plan that specifies the development of the Zoo up to the year 2040. 

In 2017, the Zoo was able to acquire land in the southwestern part, which gives the Zoo the opportunity to build new facilities. 

The biggest change is likely to be the planned relocation of the entrance from the upper part of the zoo to the parking lot. 

In spring 2022, the first facility of the master plan with pygmy otters and red pandas opened.

Above: Pygmy otter

Above: Red panda

The Walter Zoo has a wide educational range, which was expanded with the opening of the zoo school in autumn 2018. 

The zoo school was built in the style of an African lodge and shows the four major pillars of a scientifically managed zoo according to Heini Hediger: 

  • nature and species protection 
  • education
  • research
  • recreation 

Above: Zooschule, Walter Zoo

Heini Hediger (1908 – 1992) was a Swiss biologist noted for work in proxemics (the study of human use of space and the effects that population density has on behaviour, communication, and social interaction) in animal behavior and is known as the “father of zoo biology“.

Hediger was formerly the director of Tierpark Dählhölzli, Zoo Basel and Zürich Zoo.

Above: Heini Hediger

In his book Wild Animals in Captivity, a Sketch of Zoo Biology, Hediger drew largely on his experiences as director of the Dählhölzli Zoo. 

Through the scientific studies he initiated, he found out, for example, that female rabbits can become pregnant again even before they have given birth to their young. 

Above: Rabbit

However, his activities were not limited to administrative matters, as he often had to replace animal keepers who were conscripted into military service. 

He himself described his time in Bern as “hard school“. 

Difficulties in obtaining animals and feed were the order of the day. 

Despite the difficult circumstances, the Zoo received support from the zoo association.

In 1949, the Basel Zoo’s first okapi, named Bambe, died after only two months of a severe worm infection. 

With this animal, Hediger was able to gain important experience in keeping the okapi, which later made successful keeping in European zoos possible. 

Above: Okapi

In addition, very rare spectacled bears found their way into the bear enclosure. 

Above: Spectacled bear

Two years later, Hediger took care of the expansion of the Zoo and finally in 1951 a second entrance could be opened. 

The sea lion pool was surrounded by a spectator ramp.

Above: Sea lion

The giraffes were given a spacious run. 

Above: Giraffes

The first Indian rhino male was imported to Basel Zoo in the same year. 

A year later, a female animal followed. 

The bull Gadadhar and the female Joymothi form the future progenitors for the famous Basel rhino breed. 

Above: Indian rhinoceros

In 1952, five young elephants from East Africa arrived at the Zoo. 

The group quickly became known because they were taken on regular walks through the city. 

Above: African elephant

A year later, the new elephant house opened, which, in addition to the new African arrivals, is also home to the Indian rhinoceros and the pygmy hippopotamus. 

Above: Pygmy hippopotamus pair

A major success for Basel Zoo was the arrival of an adult pair of gorillas, as Basel was the first zoo in Europe to have one.

Above: Gorilla

The era of the scientifically managed Zürich Zoo began with Heini Hediger .

At the beginning of his tenure, in 1954, all members of the Zoo staff who are over 50 years of age, or at least 45 years of age with 25 years of service, received a fourth week of vacation to mark the Zoo’s 25th anniversary. 

That same year. the Zoo was used by a nurse to cheer up the sick children in the children’s hospital with a llama.

The Zoo experienced an educational innovation, the Hediger panels

Zurich Zoo was the first zoo in Europe to have information display cases containing information on four areas

  • the animal name in the national languages ​​​​as well as in its scientific form
  • the distribution map
  • a photograph (in some species a coloured drawing) of the species
  • a short text with special features of the animal described

The system of the Hediger panels has established itself in numerous zoos and has also proven itself.

Above: Heini Hediger, Zürich Zoo

Another important event under the leadership of Heini Hediger was the construction of the first free-flight hall, which can be regarded as a milestone in modern bird husbandry. 

In 1955, with an exact number of 527,332 visitors, the mark of half a million zoo visitors per year was exceeded for the first time. 

In 1960, the Zoo was recognized as a cultural institution with charitable motives and was thus exempt from taxes.

In 1961, Hediger presented an overall plan for enlarging the Zoo. 

The new annexed areas were intended to create separate areas for cloven-hoofed and non-cloven-hoofed animals, which the Zoo director hoped would avoid another closure due to foot-and-mouth disease.

The implementation of the project failed for financial reasons. 

In 1962, it was decided that supportive amounts of money would be paid by the city and canton in favour of the Zoo, which was justified by the scientific claim of the Zoo. 

Above: Logo of the Zürich Zoo

Three years later, the new Africa House opened with residents such as black rhinos, pygmy hippos and various African bird species, such as maggot choppers, cattle egrets or tokos. 

Above: Black rhino

Above: Red-billed oxpecker

Above: Cattle egret

Above: Jackson’s toko

The Africa House represented Hediger’s philosophy in an exemplary manner. 

Different animal species were housed in the same enclosure, which also form a symbiosis in nature. 

The decisive factor here was not the size, but the possibility of being able to live all the important behaviours, such as food intake and reproduction, in their own enclosure. 

Hediger’s changes also improved the Zoo’s image. 

From 1967 onwards, Heini Hediger and the senior zoo veterinarian passed on their newly acquired knowledge about the successful keeping of wild animals in the Zoo in evening courses.

At the end of his service, Hediger was honored by the city of Zürich with the Award for Cultural Services.

Above: Zürich, Switzerland

The concept of a modern zoo according to Hediger:

  • The zoo is a recreational area for the city population and thus represents an emergency exit to nature.
  • It is a source of information in the field of nature, especially zoology, and is therefore generally used for education.
  • It operates nature conservation and protects endangered species and is therefore important as a refuge and breeding station.
  • It is important for the zoo to participate in scientific research and, above all, to study the behaviour of animals more closely.

Hediger described a number of standard interaction distances used in one form or another between animals.

Two of these are flight distance and critical distance, used when animals of different species meet, whereas others are personal distance and social distance, observed during interactions between members of the same species. 

Hediger’s biological social distance theories were used as a basis for Edward T. Hall’s 1966 anthropological social distance theories.

Above: American anthropologist and cross-cultural researcher Edward T. Hall (1914 – 2009)

In the 1950s, psychologist Humphry Osmond developed the concept of socio-architecture hospital design, such as was used in the design of the Weyburn mental hospital in 1951, based partly on Hediger’s species-habitat work.

Above: Humphry Osmond (1917 – 2004) first coined the word “psychedelic

Above: Souris Valley Mental Hospital, Weyburn, Saskatchewan, Canada

In 1942 Heini Hediger developed the science of wild animals kept in human care and published his concept of a new, special branch of biology, called “zoo biology”.

The main statement is that animals in zoos are not to be considered as “captives” but as “owners of property”, namely the territory of their enclosures.

They mark and defend this territory as they do in the natural environment and if the enclosures contain these elements which are of importance to them also in their natural environment, they have neither need nor desire to leave this property, but to the contrary, stay within it, even when they would have the opportunity to escape, or return to this “safe haven”, should they by accident have escaped.

He consequently emphasized that the quality of the enclosures (“furnishing”, structure) is equally, or even more important than quantity (space, dimensions) and substantiated this with observations in the natural habitat.

Among many other things he made clear that animals in the natural habitat do not need huge spaces, and all their needs can be satisfied within close range, that, in fact, animals do not move about for pleasure but to satisfy their needs.

Zoo biology therefore implies that the life of animals in their natural surroundings must be studied in order to provide them with appropriate keeping conditions in human care.

In animal husbandry, the aim of this concept — guided by the maxim “changing cages into territories” — was to meet the biological and ethological requirements of the exhibited animals.

Hediger’s publications influenced the keeping of wild animals in human care in particular also in the construction of enclosures and the planning of zoos.

In the 1950s, he began promoting the concept of training zoo animals to elicit biologically suitable behavior and to afford the animal exercise and mental occupation.

Further, he observed that in some cases training increased the opportunity for the zookeeper to give needed medical treatments to the animal.

He also referred to zoo animal training as “disciplined play”.

In the 1940s he defined the four main tasks of zoos:

  1. Recreation
  2. Education
  3. Research
  4. Conservation

In the 1960s, he defined the seven aspects of a zoological garden considering people, money, space, methods, administration, animals and research, in that order.

Thanks to Hediger, massive barriers are no longer used today, since symbolic borders are sufficient for most animal species.

The animals living in zoos today are limited by their accepted territory boundaries, which are also marked. 

There is no complete freedom either in the zoo or in the wild, because there are limits in nature that are invisible to humans but exist for the animal species.

Hediger’s goal is to show the animals, as far as possible, in natural breeding groups, i.e. living together with their social partners, in an environment that is optimally geared to the well-being of the animals. 

This concept is in stark contrast to the then customary keeping of individual animals in small cages, as was common in the menageries of the 19th century.

The advent of vaccinations made it much easier for Hediger to adopt an attitude in social organizations. 

In order to avoid boredom and stereotypical behavior of captive wild animals, Hediger propagates the method of behavioural enrichment.

He reintroduced the new concept of zoo biology and dealt with such matters as food, causes of death, zoo architecture, the meaning of animal to man and man to animal, the exhibition value of animals, and the behavior of humans in zoos.

Hunger and love can take only second place.

The satisfaction of hunger and sexual appetite can be postponed.

Not so escape from a dangerous enemy, and all animals, even the biggest and fiercest, have enemies.

As far as higher animals are concerned, escape must thus at any rate be considered as the most important behaviour biologically.

A key behavioural characteristic of all pets is the lack of a tendency to flee. 

The best dairy cow would be of no real use if she would not allow man to approach her and she would not agree to being milked either.

Almost all pets can be described as contact animals, because not only the flight distance but also the individual distance is missing, which means that they like to be touched.

One speaks of tameness when the lack of a tendency to flee is based on an individual loss. 

Domestication as the reason for the lack of a tendency to flee is due to a genetic loss.

For humans, isn’t travel their escape?

According to Hediger, certain animals, like humans, move on roads, which means they always use the same path to get around. 

It is noticeable that smaller animals often use the roads of larger animals and these often follow the human roads themselves. 

Meandering is very characteristic of animal roads, because the geometric straight line is not biologically determined. 

The width of the roads depends specifically on the animal species (bison: 30 cm; mouse: 3 cm).

In the zoo, it is noticeable that a very heavily used crossing runs directly along the enclosure or cage border, which can be explained by a considerable reduction in the territory area. 

But even flying animals, such as birds and bats, keep moving in the same air routes.

In addition to guided tours and animal lectures, the zoo school offers workshops for school classes of all ages on various topics related to animals as well as nature and species protection. 

The school animal shows, which were already held by the founder Walter Pischl, will continue to be offered in a contemporary form on request.

When ecology emerged as a matter of public interest in the 1970s, a few zoos began to consider making conservation their central role, with Gerald Durrell of the Jersey Zoo, George Rabb of Brookfield Zoo, and William Conway of the Bronx Zoo (Wildlife Conservation Society) leading the discussion.

Above: Gerald Durrell (1925 – 1995)

Above: Statue of dodo, the logo of the Jersey Zoo, Trinity, Jersey, Channel Islands

Above: Central Fountain, Brookfield Zoo, Brookfield, Illinois

From then on, zoo professionals became increasingly aware of the need to engage themselves in conservation programs.

The American Zoo Association soon said that conservation was its highest priority. 

In order to stress conservation issues, many large zoos stopped the practice of having animals perform tricks for visitors.

The Detroit Zoo, for example, stopped its elephant show in 1969, and its chimpanzee show in 1983, acknowledging that the trainers had probably abused the animals to get them to perform.

Above: Horace Rackham Memorial Bear Fountain, Detroit Zoo, Michigan

Mass destruction of wildlife habitat has yet to cease all over the world and many species such as elephants, big cats, penguins, tropical birds, primates, rhinos, exotic reptiles, and many others are in danger of dying out.

Above: Map of the world’s biodiversity hot spots, all of which are heavily threatened by habitat loss and degradation

Above: Elephants

Above: Penguins

Many of today’s zoos hope to stop or slow the decline of many endangered species and see their primary purpose as breeding endangered species in captivity and reintroducing them into the wild.

Modern zoos also aim to help teach visitors the importance on animal conservation, often through letting visitors witness the animals firsthand. 

Some critics and the majority of animal rights activists say that zoos, no matter what their intentions are, or how noble they are, are immoral and serve as nothing but to fulfill human leisure at the expense of the animals (which is an opinion that has spread over the years).

However, zoo advocates argue that their efforts make a difference in wildlife conservation and education.

Zoo animals live in enclosures that often attempt to replicate their natural habitats or behavioral patterns, for the benefit of both the animals and visitors. 

Nocturnal animals are often housed in buildings with a reversed light-dark cycle, i.e. only dim white or red lights are on during the day so the animals are active during visitor hours, and brighter lights on at night when the animals sleep.

Special climate conditions may be created for animals living in extreme environments, such as penguins.

Special enclosures for birds, mammals, insects, reptiles, fish and other aquatic life forms have also been developed.

Some zoos have walk-through exhibits where visitors enter enclosures of non-aggressive species, such as lemurs, marmosets, birds, lizards and turtles.

Visitors are asked to keep to paths and avoid showing or eating foods that the animals might snatch.

Above: Lemurs

Above: Marmoset

Above: Lizards

Above: Turtles

Some zoos keep animals in larger, outdoor enclosures, confining them with moats and fences, rather than in cages. 

Safari parks, also known as zoo parks and lion farms, allow visitors to drive through them and come in close proximity to the animals.

Sometimes, visitors are able to feed animals through the car windows.

The first safari park was Whipsnade Park in Bedfordshire, England, opened by the Zoological Society of London in 1931 which today (2014) covers 600 acres (2.4 km2).

Since the early 1970s, an 1,800 acre (7 km2) park in the San Pasqual Valley near San Diego has featured the San Diego Zoo Safari Park, run by the Zoological Society of San Diego.

One of two state-supported zoo parks in North Carolina is the 2,000-acre (8.1 km2) North Carolina Zoo in Asheboro.

The 500-acre (2.0 km2) Werribee Open Range Zoo in Melbourne, Australia, displays animals living in an artificial savannah.

The only safari-type park I have visited was the aforementioned Night Safari in Singapore.

The Night Safari, Singapore is the world’s first nocturnal zoo.

Unlike traditional nocturnal houses, which reverse the day-night cycle of animals so they will be active by day, the Night Safari is an entire open-air zoo set in a humid tropical forest that is only open at night.

It is divided into six geographical zones, which can be explored either on foot via four walking trails, or by tram.

The animals of the Night Safari, ranging from axis deer and African buffalo to Indian rhinoceros and pangolins to lions and Asian elephants, are made visible by lighting that resembles moonlight.

Above: Axis deer

Above: African / Cape buffalo

Above: Pangolins

Although it is brighter than full moonlight by a few orders of magnitude, it is dim enough not to disturb nocturnal and crepuscular (active primarily at twilight) animals’ behaviour.

The naturalistic enclosures simulate the animals’ native habitat.

Animals are separated from visitors with natural barriers, rather than caged.

Instead of vertical prison-like cages, cattle grids were laid all over the park to prevent hoofed animals from moving one habitat to another.

These are grille-like metal sheets with gaps wide enough for animals’ legs to go through. 

Moats were designed to look like streams and rivers to enable animals to be put on show in open areas, and hot wires were designed to look like twigs to keep animals away from the boundaries of their enclosures.

The tram takes visitors across the whole park, allowing visitors to view most of the park’s larger animals.

Animals on display include: 

  • Himalayan tahrs

Above: Himalayan tahr

  • bharals

Above: Bharal

  • markhor
Above: Markhor

  • greater flamingos

Above: Greater flamingo

  • striped hyenas

Above: Striped hyena

  • Asiatic lions

Above: Asiatic lion

  • sloth bears

Above: Sloth bear

  • Indian rhinoceros
  • axis deer
  • Eld’s deer

Above: Eld’s deer

  • Cape buffalo
  • spotted hyenas
  • hippopotamus
  • white lions

Above: White lion

  • Malayan tapirs

Above: Malayan tapirs

  • dholes

Above: Dhole

  • Bornean bearded pigs

Above: Bornean bearded pig

  • Asian elephants
  • sambar deer

Above: Sambar deer

  • Asian black bears

Above: Asian black bear

Above: Night Safari park map

The Fishing Cat Trail features a variety of nocturnal animals mostly from Asia and South America such as:

  • the fishing cat

Above: Fishing cat

  • binturong 

Above: Binturong

  • spectacled owls

Above: Spectacled owl

  • southern three-banded armadillo

Above: Southern three-banded armadillo

  • maned wolf

Above: Maned wolf

  • giant anteater

Above: Giant anteater

  • Indian muntjac

Above: Indian muntjac

  • Asian small-clawed otter

Above: Asian small-clawed otters

  • gharial

Above: Gharial

  • spotted whistling ducks

Above: Spotted whistling duck

  • little pied cormorants

Above: Little pied cormorant

The Leopard Trail houses a variety of nocturnal animals from the rainforests of Asia like: 

  • clouded leopards

Above: Clouded leopard

  • a large flying fox walkthrough aviary

Above: Large flying fox

  • a habitat for animals native to Singapore like: 
    • leopard cats

Above: Leopard cat

  • Sunda pangolins

Above: Sunda pangolin

  • other habitats for: 
    • greater hog badgers

Above: Greater hog badger

  • Northern Luzon giant cloud rats

Above: Northern Luzon giant cloud rat

  • Sunda slow loris
Above: Sunda slow loris

  • Senegal bushbabies
Above: Senegal bushbaby

  • fossa

Above: Fossa

  • porcupines
Above: Porcupine

  • owls

Above: Owls

The Asiatic lions are also visible from a boardwalk on the edge of the trail.

Along the East Lodge Trail are habitats for: 

  • Malayan tigers

  • red river hogs

Above: Red river hog

  • North Sulawesi babirusa 

Above: North Sulawesi babirusa

  • bongos

Above: Bongo

  • aardvarks
Above: Aardvark

Opening in 2012, the Wallaby Trail features a walkthrough habitat for red-necked wallabies and also has enclosures for woylies, common brushtail possums and morepork.

Above: Red-necked wallaby

Above: Woylie

Above: Common bushtail possums

Above: Morepork

The Trail also has a large man-made cave called the Naracoorte Cave, a reconstruction of the Naracoorte Caves National Park, which has several indigenous paintings and holds invertebrates and reptiles.

Above: Naracoorte Cave, Night Safari, Singapore

public aquarium (plural: public aquaria or public aquariums) is the aquatic counterpart of a zoo, which houses living aquatic animal and plant specimens for public viewing.

Most public aquariums feature tanks larger than those kept by home aquarists, as well as smaller tanks.

Since the first public aquariums were built in the mid-19th century, they have become popular and their numbers have increased.

Most modern accredited aquariums stress conservation issues and educating the public.

Above: Monterey Bay Aquarium, Monterey, California

The first public aquarium was opened at the London Zoo in 1853.

Above: Aquarium, London Zoo, London, England

This was followed by the opening of public aquaria in continental Europe (e.g. Paris in 1859, Hamburg in 1864, Berlin in 1869, and Brighton in 1872) and the United States (e.g. Boston in 1859, Washington in 1873, San Francisco Woodward’s Gardens in 1873, and the New York Aquarium at Battery Park in 1896).

Above: Jardin acclimatation, Paris, France

Above: Hamburg Aquarium (1865)

Above: Berlin Aquarium, Berlin, Germany

Above: Sea Life, Brighton, England

Above: New England Aquarium, Boston, Massachusetts

Above: Entry, National Aquarium, Washington DC

Above: Woodward’s Gardens (1866 – 1891), San Francisco, California

The aquariums I have visited:

  • Great Aquarium, Saint Malo, France

  • Sea Life Centre, Konstanz, Germany

Above: Sea Life, Konstanz, Germany

  • Aquarium of Genoa, Italy

  • Lisbon Oceanarium, Portugal

Above: Oceanarium, Lisbon, Portugal

  • Aquarium Donostia-San Sebastián, Spain

Above: Aquarium Donostia – San Sebastian

  • Cosmocaixa, Barcelona, Spain

Above: Cosmo Caixa, Barcelona, Spain

I am generally not as enthusiastic about aquariums as I am about zoos.

Roadside zoos are found throughout North America, particularly in remote locations.

They are often small, for-profit zoos, often intended to attract visitors to some other facility, such as a gas station.

The animals may be trained to perform tricks, and visitors are able to get closer to them than in larger zoos. 

Since they are sometimes less regulated, roadside zoos are often subject to accusations of neglect and cruelty.

In June 2014 the Animal Legal Defense Fund (ALDF) filed a lawsuit against the Iowa-based roadside Cricket Hollow Zoo for violating the Endangered Species Act by failing to provide proper care for its animals.

Since filing the lawsuit, ALDF has obtained records from investigations conducted by the USDA’s Animal and Plant Health Inspection Services.

These records show that the zoo is also violating the Animal Welfare Act.

Above: Cricket Hollow Zoo, Manchester, Iowa

In modern, well-regulated zoos, breeding is controlled to maintain a self-sustaining, global captive population.

This is not the case in some less well-regulated zoos, often based in poorer regions.

Overall “stock turnover” of animals during a year in a select group of poor zoos was reported as 20% – 25%, with 75% of wild caught apes dying in captivity within the first 20 months.

The authors of the report stated that before successful breeding programs, the high mortality rate was the reason for the “massive scale of importations“.

One two-year study indicated that of 19,361 mammals that left accredited zoos in the US between 1992 and 1998, 7,420 (38%) went to dealers, auctions, hunting ranches, unaccredited zoos and individuals, and game farms.

petting zoo (also called a children’s zoochildren’s farm, or petting farm) features a combination of domesticated animals and some wild species that are docile enough to touch and feed.

In addition to independent petting zoos, many general zoos contain a petting zoo.

Most petting zoos are designed to provide only relatively placid, herbivorous (plants only) domesticated animals, such as sheep, goats, pigs, rabbits or ponies, to feed and interact physically with safety.

This is in contrast to the usual zoo experience, where normally wild animals are viewed from behind safe enclosures where no contact is possible.

A few provide wild species (such as pythons or big cat cubs) to interact with, but these are rare and usually found outside Western nations.

To ensure the animals’ health, the food is supplied by the zoo, either from vending machines or a kiosk nearby.

Food often fed to animals includes grass and crackers and also in selected feeding areas hay is a common food.

Such feeding is an exception to the usual rule about not feeding animals.

Touching animals can result in the transmission of diseases between animals and humans (zoonosis) so it is recommended that people should thoroughly wash their hands before and after touching the animals.

There have been several outbreaks of E. coli, etc.

Above: Petting farm, Berlin Zoological Garden, Berlin, Germany

(Escherichia coli, also known as E. coli, is a kind of bacteria that is commonly found in the lower intestine of warm-blooded organisms. 

Most E. coli strains are harmless, but some can cause serious food poisoning in their hosts, and are occasionally responsible for food contamination incidents that prompt product recalls.

The harmless strains are part of the normal microbiota of the gut and can benefit their hosts by producing vitamin K2 and preventing colonisation of the intestine with pathogenic bacteria, having a mutualistic relationship.

E. coli is expelled into the environment within fecal matter.

The bacterium grows massively in fresh fecal matter under aerobic conditions for three days, but its numbers decline slowly afterwards.)

Above: Low-temperature electron micrograph of a cluster of E. coli bacteria, magnified 10,000 times. Each individual bacterium is oblong shaped.

I have visited petting zoos before, of course.

One I have frequently visited is the one in Seeburgpark (lake castle park), Kreuzlingen, Switzerland.

Above: Tierpark, Seeburgpark, Kreuzlingen, Switzerland

An animal theme park is a combination of an amusement park and a zoo, mainly for entertaining and commercial purposes. 

Marine mammal parks, such as Sea World and Marineland, are more elaborate dolphinariums keeping whales, and containing additional entertainment attractions.

Above: Entry, Marineland, Marineland, Florida

Another kind of animal theme park contains more entertainment and amusement elements than the classical zoo, such as stage shows, roller coasters, and mythical creatures.

Some examples are:

  • Busch Gardens Tampa Bay, Tampa, Florida

  • Disney’s Animal Kingdom, Bay Lake, (near Orlando), Florida 

Above: The Tree of Life, the icon of Disney’s Animal Kingdom

  • Gatorland, Orlando, Florida

  • Flamingo Land, North Yorkshire, England  

  • Six Flags Discovery Kingdom, Vallejo, California

The one park that sticks in my mind that I have visited and that claims to be an animal theme park is Connyland, Lipperswil, between Frauenfeld and Kreuzlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland.

The amusement park, which opened in 1983, is best known for its former dolphinarium and its Patagonian sea lions.

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By 2000, most animals being displayed in zoos were the offspring of other zoo animals.

This trend, however was and still is somewhat species-specific.

When animals are transferred between zoos, they usually spend time in quarantine, and are given time to acclimatize to their new enclosures which are often designed to mimic their natural environment.

For example, some species of penguins may require refrigerated enclosures.

Guidelines on necessary care for such animals is published in the International Zoo Yearbook (published by the Zoological Society of London (ZSL), a charity devoted to the worldwide conservation of animals and their habitats).

Especially in large animals, a limited number of spaces are available in zoos.

As a consequence, various management tools are used to preserve the space for the genetically most important individuals and to reduce the risk of inbreeding.

Management of animal populations is typically through international organizations, such as the Association of Zoos and Aquariums (AZA) and the European Association of Zoos and Aquaria (EAZA).

Zoos have several different ways of managing the animal populations, such as moves between zoos, contraception, sale of excess animals and euthanization (culling).

Contraception can be an effective way to limit a population’s breeding.

However it may also have health repercussions and can be difficult or even impossible to reverse in some animals.

Additionally, some species may lose their reproductive capability entirely if prevented from breeding for a period (whether through contraceptives or isolation), but further study is needed on the subject.

Sale of surplus animals from zoos was once common and in some cases animals have ended up in substandard facilities.

In recent decades the practice of selling animals from certified zoos has declined. 

A large number of animals are culled each year in zoos, but this is controversial.

A highly publicized culling as part of population management was that of a healthy giraffe at Copenhagen Zoo in 2014.

The Zoo argued that its genes already were well-represented in captivity, making the giraffe unsuitable for future breeding.

There were offers to adopt it and an online petition to save it had many thousand signatories, but the culling proceeded. 

Above: Entry, Copenhagen Zoo, Copenhagen, Denmark

Although zoos in some countries have been open about culling, the controversy of the subject and pressure from the public has resulted in others being closed. 

This stands in contrast to most zoos publicly announcing animal births.

Furthermore, while many zoos are willing to cull smaller and/or low-profile animals, fewer are willing to do it with larger high-profile species.

The position of most modern zoos in Australasia, Asia, Europe and North America, particularly those with scientific societies, is that they display wild animals primarily for the conservation of endangered species, as well as for research purposes and education, and secondarily for the entertainment of visitors.

The Zoological Society of London states in its charter that its aim is “the advancement of zoology and animal physiology and the introduction of new and curious subjects of the animal kingdom“.

It maintains two research institutes, the Nuffield Institute of Comparative Medicine and the Wellcome Institute of Comparative Physiology.

In the US, the Penrose Research Laboratory of the Philadelphia Zoo focuses on the study of comparative pathology (the study of diseases and their causes).

Above: Welcome gate, Philadelphia Zoo, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

The World Association of Zoos and Aquariums produced its first conservation strategy in 1993, and in November 2004, it adopted a new strategy that sets out the aims and mission of zoological gardens of the 21st century.

When studying behaviour of captive animals, several things should however be taken into account before drawing conclusions about wild populations.

Including that captive populations are often smaller than wild ones and that the space available to each animal is often less than in the wild.

Conservation programs all over the world fight to protect species from going extinct, but many conservation programs are underfunded and under-represented.

Conservation programs can struggle to fight bigger issues like habitat loss and illness.

It often takes a lot of funding and long time periods to rebuild degraded habitats, both of which are scarce in conservation efforts.

The current state of conservation programs cannot rely solely on situ (on-site conservation) plans alone, ex situ (off-site conservation) may therefore provide a suitable alternative.

Off-site conservation relies on zoos, national parks, or other care facilities to support the rehabilitation of the animals and their populations.

Zoos benefit conservation by providing suitable habitats and care to endangered animals.

When properly regulated, they present a safe, clean environment for the animals to increase populations sizes.

A study on amphibian conservation and zoos addressed these problems by writing:

Whilst addressing in situ threats, particularly habitat loss, degradation and fragmentation, is of primary importance.

For many amphibian species in situ conservation alone will not be enough, especially in light of current un-mitigatable threats that can impact populations very rapidly such as chytridiomycosis [an infectious fungal disease]. 

Ex situ programmes can complement in situ activities in a number of ways including maintaining genetically and demographically viable populations while threats are either better understood or mitigated in the wild.”

The breeding of endangered species is coordinated by cooperative breeding programmes containing international studbooks and coordinators, who evaluate the roles of individual animals and institutions from a global or regional perspective.

There are regional programmes all over the world for the conservation of endangered species.

In Africa, conservation is handled by the African Preservation Program (APP), in the US and Canada by Species Survival Plan, in Australasia by the Australasian Species Management Program, in Europe by the European Endangered Species Program, and in Japan, South Asia, and South East Asia, by the Japanese Association of Zoos and Aquariums, the South Asian Zoo Association for Regional Cooperation, and the South East Asian Zoo Association.

Above: Logo of the South Asian Zoo Association for Regional Cooperation

Above: Logo of the South East Asian Zoo Association

Besides conservation of captive species, large zoos may form a suitable environment for wild native animals such as herons to live in or visit.

A colony of black crowned night herons has regularly summered at the National Zoo in Washington DC for more than a century.

Some zoos may provide information to visitors on wild animals visiting or living in the zoo, or encourage them by directing them to specific feeding or breeding platforms.

Above: Night heron

The welfare of zoo animals varies widely.

Many zoos work to improve their animal enclosures and make it fit the animals’ needs, but constraints such as size and expense can complicate this. 

The type of enclosure and the husbandry are of great importance in determining the welfare of animals.

Substandard enclosures can lead to decreased lifespans, caused by factors as human diseases, unsafe materials in the cages and possible escape attempts.

However, when zoos take time to think about the animal’s welfare, zoos can become a place of refuge.

There are animals that are injured in the wild and are unable to survive on their own, but in the zoos they can live out the rest of their lives healthy and happy.

In recent years, some zoos have chosen to move out some larger animals because they do not have the space available to provide an adequate enclosure for them.

An issue with animal welfare in zoos is that best animal husbandry practices are often not completely known.

Especially for species that are only kept in a small number of zoos.

To solve this, organizations, like the EAZA and the AZA, have begun to develop husbandry manuals.

Many modern zoos attempt to improve animal welfare by providing more space and behavioural enrichments.

This often involves housing the animals in naturalistic enclosures that allow the animals to express more of their natural behaviours, such as roaming and foraging.

Whilst many zoos have been working hard on this change, in some zoos, some enclosures still remain barren concrete enclosures or other minimally enriched cages.

Sometimes animals are unable to perform certain behaviors in zoos, like seasonal migration or traveling over large distances.

Whether these behaviours are necessary for good welfare, however, is unclear.

Some behaviours are seen as essential for an animal’s welfare whilst others aren’t. 

It is, however, shown that even in limited spaces, certain natural behaviours can still be performed.

A study in 2014 for example found that Asian elephants in zoos covered similar or higher walking distances then sedentary wild populations.

Migration in the wild can also be related to food scarcity or other unfavourable environmental problems.

However, a proper zoo enclosure never runs out of food or water, and in case of unfavourable temperatures or weather animals are provided with shelter.

Heini Hediger was convinced that animals have “a kind of consciousness“. 

It is unthinkable for him not to start from the correctness of this point of view.

In the following, consciousness is understood as knowledge about oneself.

To support his results, Hediger cited an African bird, the honey stalker, as an example, which likes to eat bee larvae. 

Above: Honey stalker

In the normal case, the bird leads a honey badger to a beehive. 

The badger destroys the honeycomb and eats the honey. 

The rest is available to the honey stalker.

Above: Honey badger

But if a human honey collector takes on the task of the badger and hits the tree with a machete, the bird will fly over and lead the human to the nearest beehive.

For Hediger, this behavior can hardly be explained without the idea of ​​an animal consciousness.

In addition, he underscores the correctness of his ideas with an example that ascribes humour or at least a kind of “Schadenfreude” to certain animals. 

A juvenile steppe baboon has been observed repeatedly climbing down from the acacia tree on which it was sitting and under which a pack of wild dogs were resting, jumping around in front of the pack, and finally climbing up the tree again.

This form of “annoying” can hardly be understood without a simple form of empathizing with others, combined with one’s own intention.

Above: Steppe baboon

Above: An acacia tree

Another evidence of the consciousness of certain animals that Hediger shows is the consciousness of one’s own size, which is the most primitive, but also the most important form of self-awareness.

Horned animals in zoos often force their heads through very narrow meshes to get food. 

It is difficult for humans to understand the elegance with which the animals manage to withdraw their heads with the long appendages from the opening.

The conscious use of an animal’s shadow also allows conclusions to be drawn about its consciousness. 

For example, a Chapman mare, who was considered a model mother, positioned her body in such a way that her shadow fell on the foal resting on the ground in extreme summer sunshine.

Animals in zoos can exhibit behaviors that are abnormal in their frequency, intensity, or would not normally be part of their behavioural repertoire.

Whilst these types of behaviours can be a sign of bad welfare and stress, this isn’t necessarily the case.

Other measurements or behavioural research is advised before determining whether an animal performing stereotypical behaviour is living in bad welfare or not. 

Examples of stereotypical behaviors are pacing, head-bobbing, obsessive grooming and feather-plucking.

A study examining data collected over four decades found that polar bears, lions, tigers and cheetahs can display stereotypical behaviors in many older exhibits.

However they also noted that in more modern naturalistic exhibits, these behaviors could completely disappear.

Above: Polar bear

Above: Lioness

Above: Tiger

Above: Cheetah

Elephants have also been recorded displaying stereotypical behaviours in the form of swaying back and forth, trunk swaying or route tracing.

This has been observed in 54% of individuals in UK zoos.

Above: Elephant

However, it has been shown that modern facilities and modern husbandry can greatly decrease or even entirely remove abnormal behaviours.

A study of a group of elephants in Planckendael (Belgium) showed that the older wild-caught animals displayed many stereotypical behaviours.

These elephants had spent part of their lives either in a circus or in other substandard enclosures.

On the other hand, the elephants born in the modern facilities that had lived in a herd their whole life barely displayed any stereotypical behaviors at all. 

The life history of an animal is thus extremely important when analyzing the causes of stereotypical behaviour, as this can be a historical relict instead of a result of present-day husbandry.

Above: Baby elephant, Planckendael Zoo

The influence on a zoological environment on animal’s longevity is not straightforward.

A study of 50 mammal species found that 84% of them actually lived longer in zoos than they would in the wild on average.

On the other hand, some research claims that elephants in Japanese zoos would live shorter than their wild counterparts at just 17 years.

This has been refuted by other studies however.

It is important to acknowledge here that studies might not yet fully represent recent improvements in husbandry.

For example, studies show that captive-bred elephants already have a lower mortality risk then wild-caught ones.

Climatic conditions can make it difficult to keep some animals in zoos in some locations.

For example, the Alaska Zoo had an elephant named Maggie.

She was housed in a small, indoor enclosure because the outdoor temperature was too low.

Above: Sign, Alaska Zoo, Anchorage, Alaska

Some critics and many animal rights activists claim that zoo animals are treated as voyeuristic objects, rather than living creatures, and often suffer due to the transition from being free and wild to captivity.

However, ever since imports of wild-caught animals became more regulated by organizations like CITES and national laws zoos have started sustaining their populations via breeding.

This change started around the 1970s.

Many co-operations in the form of breeding programs have been set up since, for both common and endangered species.

(CITES (shorter name for the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, also known as the Washington Convention) is a multilateral treaty to protect endangered plants and animals.

It was drafted as a result of a resolution adopted in 1963 at a meeting of members of the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN).

The Convention was opened for signature in 1973.

CITES entered into force on 1 July 1975.

Its aim is to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild animals and plants does not threaten the survival of the species in the wild.

It accords varying degrees of protection to more than 35,000 species of animals and plants.

Above: Logo of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora

In order to ensure that the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) was not violated, the Secretariat of GATT was consulted during the drafting process.)

In some countries, feeding live vertebrates to zoo animals is illegal under most circumstances.

The UK Animal Welfare Act of 2006, for example, states that prey must be killed for feeding, unless this threatens the health of the predator.

Some zoos had already adopted such practices prior to the implementation of such policies.

London Zoo, for example, stopped feeding live vertebrates in the 20th century, long before the Animal Welfare Act.

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

Despite being illegal in China, some zoos have been found to still feed live vertebrates to their predators.

In some parks, like Xiongsen Bear and Tiger Mountain Village, live chickens and other livestock were found to be thrown into the enclosures of tigers and other predators.

Live cows and pigs are thrown to tigers to amuse visitors.

Above: Xiongsen Bear and Tiger Mountain Village entry, Guilin, China

Other Chinese parks, like Shenzhen Safari Park, have already stopped this practice after facing heavy criticism.

Above: Shenzhen Safari Park entry

From childhood until his death, Arne Naess spent summers and holidays exploring the mountains east of Bergen, Norway.

Above: Arne Naess (1912 – 2009)

In the late 1930s, when he was in his 20s, Naess built a simple cabin on a remote mountain perch called Tvergastein – so remote that it took him 62 trips with a horse to carry up the timbers.

At 1,500 metres, it was the highest private cabin in Scandinavia and required considerable hiking, snowshoeing or skiing to be reached.

Above: Tvergastein

Despite a cosmopolitan life of global activism, research, writing and teaching, Naess spent much of his adult life in his mountain hideaway, exploring the local flora and fauna, and reading Plato, Aristotle, Spinoza and Gandhi.

Above: Bust of Plato (428 – 348 BCE)

Above: Bust of Aristotle (384 – 322 BCE)

Above: Baruch de Spinoza (aka Benedict Spinoza) (1632 – 1677)

Above: Mahatma Gandhi (1869 – 1948)

He sought to leave a small footprint not only on his beloved mountain but also on the planet Earth – so he ate only vegetables, possessed only necessities and often lived in his cabin without electricity or plumbing and with very little heat.

Why would a distinguished philosopher withdraw from the modern world and even largely from human society?

Naess had fallen in love with his mountain perch.

This love led him to identify himself with every living creature, from fleas to human beings.

He even considered changing his own name to Arne Tvergastein.

We never know what we truly have loved until we lose it.

Edmund Burke pioneered conservative political thought in the wake of the French Revolution.

There were no “conservatives” until all moral, religious, social and political traditions came under attack from the revolutionaries of 1789.

Similarly, there were no environmentalists, ecologists or conservationists until the Industrial Revolution threatened to destroy the remaining wilderness and even familiar rural landscapes.

Just as political conservatives see political change in terms of what is being lost, so many conservationists see economic change in terms of the loss of natural habitats.

No one has been more eloquent or influential in mourning what we have lost to modern commerce, industry and technology than Naess, who once chained himself to a waterfall so that it would not be dammed up.

Above: Edmund Burke (1729 – 1797)

Naess is best known for his concept of “deep ecology“.

Næss cited Rachel Carson’s 1962 book Silent Spring as being a key influence in his vision of deep ecology.

Above: Rachel Carson (1907 – 1964)

Næss combined his ecological vision with Gandhian non-violence and on several occasions participated in direct action.

According to him, most environmentalists aim to promote merely human values, by reducing pollution to protect human health, conserving resources to protect future consumption and preserving a bit of wilderness for recreation.

All of this “shallow ecology“, said Naess, ignores the inherent value of nature quite apart from its effects on human welfare.

Deep ecology holds that not only human beings but all living creatures have a right to live and to flourish.

Naess was appalled by what he saw as the arrogance of human beings who treat the whole of the natural world as nothing more than a woodpile to be used, destroyed or wasted for our own convenience.

Above: Arne Naess

In the Christian Bible, God gives Adam “dominion” over nature.

Above: Michelangelo’s Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Naess rejected this ideal of human domination or even stewardship over the natural world.

As if humans could possibly know enough to “manage” the infinite complexity of nature!

According to Naess, every significant human attempt to manage nature has backfired, revealing our arrogance and ignorance.

Many large dams, for instance, are now being modified or dismantled because of the unforeseen ecological disasters they have created.

Above: Hoover Dam, Arizona

Industrial agriculture has left deserts and dust storms in its wake.

Above: Libyan Desert

Naess wanted human beings to be good citizens of the Earth, not its masters.

As good citizens of planet Earth, said Naess, we ought to be concerned not just with our own parochial human interests but also with the common good of the whole of nature.

What is that common good?

Above: Home

Naess followed the 17th century philosopher Benedict Spinoza in arguing that nature is just another word for God.

Instead of locating spiritual or divine realities apart from or above nature, Naess believed that divinity is just another aspect of nature.

According to Spinoza, the highest human good is the intellectual love of God, which means, said Naess, the loving appreciation of the infinite diversity of life.

Every creature, said Spinoza, including human beings, strives to preserve itself and to actualize all of its powers.

Naess insisted that the common good of nature is the self-realization of every living organism.

Human self-realization uniquely culminates in the capacity to contemplate and to love the totality of nature, of which we are only one small part.

What this means, said Naess, is that human beings approach the divine not by turning away from nature but rather by finding our true home within it.

Although human beings have always attempted to leave our natural homes by voyages to new continents and now even to new planets, Naess insisted that no one can be truly happy except in intimate relation with a particular natural setting.

Thus, Naess rejected modern ideals of globalization, cosmopolitanism and tourism, let alone space travel.

Above: The Solar System

He even fought to keep Norway out of the European Union.

Above: Flag of Norway

Above: Flag of the European Union

He implicitly wanted everyone to follow his own example of a lifelong intimate relation to a particular natural place.

Above: Arne Naess

Naess’ theory of deep ecology and his worship of non-human nature have led other ecologists to call him a mystic, a misanthrope, a fascist and even a Nazi – despite his heroic service resisting the German occupation of Norway.

Above: Flag of Nazism (1920 – 1945)

Because human beings pose a unique threat to pristine nature and perhaps even to the future of life on Earth, some “deep ecologists” are indeed misanthropic.

They argue that we need more disease, war and poverty to reduce human numbers if the natural world is going to survive.

Naess himself agreed that respect for the common good of nature requires a massive reduction in human population to a level of about 100 million, but before Naess became an ecologist he was a disciple of Gandhi’s philosophy of non-violence.

Above: The Collected Works of Mahatma Gandhi

Gandhi, who tolerated poisonous snakes, spiders and scorpions within his own home, extended the principles of non-violence to the whole of nature.

Naess similarly rejected any use of force or coercion to protect nature.

He wanted to reduce human numbers by voluntary family planning.

Despite the radical or even violent implications of his own deep ecology and the malicious rhetoric heaped upon him, Naess was the most peace-loving of activists.

He never once resorted to verbal polemics or abuse.

Instead, he always sought respectful engagement and common ground with his opponents.

Everyone who ever met him agreed that he embodied the peace and goodwill that he sought to bring about in the world.

Above: Arne Naess

As a young man, Naess was traumatized by the experience of looking through a microscope and observing a flea that had jumped into a bath of acid.

Viewing with horror the struggle, the suffering and the death agony of this flea, Naess became a lifelong vegetarian.

His empathetic identification with the suffering flea became a cornerstone of his deep ecology.

Above: Electron micrograph of a flea

Instead of asking human beings to sacrifice our interests on behalf of other creatures, Naess asked us to identify with other creatures, to expand our own “selves” to include the whole of nature.

Through this widening of the self, the protection of nature becomes a kind of enlightened self-interest rather than an altruistic self-sacrifice.

Although he occasionally used the language of rights and duties, Naess much preferred to appeal to beauty and joy.

He did sometimes refer to the “right to life” of every creature, implying our “duty” not to kill them.

Above: Arne Naess

He extended Immanuel Kant’s famous imperative “never to treat a person as a mere means but always also as an end” to our treatment of all living organisms.

However, in general, Naess was not interested in any kind of ethics, which he viewed as little more than moralistic aggression.

He believed that human beings are motivated less by ethical duties than by their understanding of the world.

Above: Immanuel Kant (1724 – 1804)

If we came to see ourselves as just one part of an immense web of life, if we came to see ourselves in nature rather than above it, if we learned to appreciate the complexity and beauty of pristine ecosystems, then we would protect nature out of a feeling of joy rather than a sense of duty.

As a Gandhian pacifist, Naess was reluctant to impose moral, let alone legal, duties on other human beings.

He preferred to teach by his own example of loving tenderness towards all living creatures, great and small.

Hence, his rules about killing always include exceptions:

Never kill another living creature unless you must in order to survive.

He condemns killing for sport but not from hunger.

Although he rejects any explicit ranking of organisms, he does implicitly privilege human life.

Naess is often described or denigrated as a “mystic“.

He did not think that language, let alone philosophical argument, could capture our primordial “awe” in relation to nature.

Ultimately, he was a spiritual thinker who claimed that the human wonder before nature must be cultivated before the elaboration of any ecological ethics.

Naess himself drew upon Spinoza’s pantheism, Buddhism and Gandhian Hinduism in his own spirituality of nature, but he thought that a proper spiritual response to nature could also be found in many other religious traditions.

Above: Statue of Spinoza, Amsterdam, Netherlands, with inscription:
The objective of the state is freedom” 

Above: The Dharma chakra, a sacred symbol which represents Buddhism and its traditions

Above: Prambanan Hindu Temple complex, Java, Indonesia

The word “nature” evokes very different images in different minds, just as the word “God” does.

Nature can connote a nurturing mother, the cycle of life and relations of interdependence – or nature can connote the struggle for survival, predators and prey, and cycles of extinction.

Nature for Naess was ultimately a peaceable kingdom of mutual co-existence and harmony, where, in the biblical vision, “the lion lies down with the lamb“.

Human beings alone, he suggested, are unnatural:

Our overweening arrogance, our out-of-control fertility and our destructive intelligence pose a unique threat to the harmony of nature.

Nature was a garden of paradise until man arrived and overturned the divine order.

Unless human beings return to their proper place as but one creature among infinitely many, nature will be destroyed.

Above: Thomas Cole’s Expulsion from the Garden of Eden

Yet, from another, more Darwinian point of view, nature is not a place of peace or harmony at all:

Every creature is locked into a struggle for survival.

Every creature produces too many offspring.

Every creature kills or is killed.

Natural history is replete with starvation, death by exposure, relentless predation and extinction.

By some accident of random genetic mutation, human beings developed a uniquely powerful combination of intelligence and dexterity, permitting us to become the top predator.

In this view, human culture, technology and urbanization are natural adaptations to our ecological niche, permitting us to dominate and subdue all other organisms.

Above: Charles Darwin (1809 – 1882)

Did human beings ever live in harmony with nature?

Naess and other ecologists have claimed that prehistoric and contemporary hunter-gatherers were able to co-exist with nature, but the fossil record suggests otherwise.

As soon as these hunter-gatherers migrated to America, for example, they hunted to extinction all the large Ice Age mammals.

Human “destructiveness” (if that is what predation is) has always been limited only by human knowledge and abilities.

Above: The Bering Strait land bridge theory map

According to Karl Marx, human beings by nature transform the natural world into something recognizably human:

That is, into a human home.

Above: Karl Marx (1818 – 1883)

According to Arne Naess, human beings should stop transforming nature and start conforming to it.

Are we by nature the masters and possessors of the Earth or are we by nature merely fellow citizens among other creatures?

These are ultimate religious and philosophical questions which are not likely to be resolved any time soon.

Above: Arne Naess

How should we interpret Naess’ distinction between deep and shallow ecology?

Although he rejected an “anthropocentric” perspective on nature (which he calls “shallow ecology“) his own celebration of the joys of communing with nature, of ecological diversity, the flourishing of all species and the harmony of local ecologies – all these reflect distinctively human values.

In other words, both deep and shallow ecology understand and appraise nature in relation to human flourishing.

Shallow ecology values nature only insofar as nature serves material or transient human desires.

Deep ecology values nature insofar as nature serves the spiritual and permanent human desires for the contemplation of the beautiful and sublime, for the wonder of the intellectual complexity of natural order and for humility in the presence of a mysterious gift not created by us.

I see all the moral implications of zoos, the good and the bad.

I will always feel saddened by the notion of caged animals, but if that is all they have ever known, if they would be unable to adapt to the wild because of a life of imprisonment, and if they are treated well, then in the name of preserving the species, I have no moral issue with visiting a zoo.

Above: Work Projects Administration (WPA) poster (1937)

Seeing any animal anywhere, whether it is the hawks that circle the farmer’s field across from our apartment block in Landschlacht, or the cats that seek the shadows of Maltese gardens, or the strays of Eskişehir or Denizli, I feel honoured and privileged to bear witness to all God’s creatures great and small.

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: San Anton Gardens, Attard, Malta Island, Malta

My failing is that, unlike the aforementioned Abela and his diving dog Titti, loyalty from an animal needs to be deserved.

Once helped, you become responsible for that animal.

Responsibility to an animal is akin to that of a child.

Once dependent upon you, they remain your responsibility.

I would love to be a pet provider, but a pet needs not only food and water and waste management, it also needs time and attention and care, again much like a child.

I know I would have been more sad and sympathetic to the tigers of l’Arka ta Noe had we visited them.

Ignorance is bliss.

Soon I will return to the Denizli Otogar.

Perhaps the kitten will be there again.

I hope with all my heart it will be.

I also hope with all my heart that it won’t.

Someone told me it’s all happening at the zoo

I do believe it
I do believe it’s true

It’s a light and tumble journey
From the East Side to the park
Just a fine and fancy ramble
To the zoo

But you can take the crosstown bus
If it’s raining or it’s cold
And the animals will love it if you do
If you do, now

Somethin’ tells me it’s all happening at the zoo

I do believe it
I do believe it’s true

The monkeys stand for honesty
Giraffes are insincere
And the elephants are kindly but they’re dumb
Orangutans are skeptical
Of changes in their cages
And the zookeeper is very fond of rum

Zebras are reactionaries
Antelopes are missionaries
Pigeons plot in secrecy
And hamsters turn on frequently
What a gas, you gotta come and see


At the zoo
At the zoo
At the zoo
At the zoo
At the zoo
At the zoo
At the zoo
At the zoo

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Graeme Garrard and James Bernard Murphy, How to Think Politically / Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel, “At the Zoo

The way of the bull

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Monday 20 June 2022

It is a long weekly journey for a tall man.

Above: Eskişehir Otobüs Terminali (bus station)

Six hours on a cramped bus each way between Eskişehir (where I live) and Denizli (where I teach every Friday) and, for the most part, it feels like an endurance test that must be tolerated.

Above: Bridge over Porsuk River in Eskişehir, Turkey

Above: Denizli – The rooster is the symbol of the city

Nonetheless, the journey does have one compensation:

Scenery.

My spirit longs to drag my body off the bus and compel it to hike the hills and climb the crests of surrounding mountains that encircle the highways.

The journey to Denizli usually finds me distracting myself with books as the trip is made in the morning and early afternoon with daylight my constant travel companion.

The journey from Denizli, made between 6 pm and midnight, is spent with eyes cast outside the windows as sunset paints a magical silhouette that mere photographs cannot sufficiently capture.

I am reminded of the lower Laurentians where I was raised in Canada.

I am reminded of Switzerland where I resided in the decade before I moved to Türkiye for work.

My eyes seek in the Turkish silhouette the one commonality that the Laurentians and the Alps share.

In the distance I see what I had sought.

Cows.

My spirit is at peace.

A smile returns to my face.

How easy it is to forget that cows are animals…..

To Reinhard Pfurtscheller, the land he farmed high in the Alps was always a slice of Paradise.

He would wake up in a cabin more than 300 years old, cows already wandering the flower-speckled meadows, snow-capped peaks all around.

There is nothing more beautiful.“, Pfurtscheller says.

Above: Reinhard Pfurtscheller

Until that warm July afternoon when he watched medics on his pasture zipping shut a body bag.

As the helicopter took off with the victim, Pfurtschneller learned that a 45-year-old hiker from Germany had been brutally assaulted, sustaining grevious injuries to her chest and heart.

The farmer was well acquainted with her killers:

Bea, Flower, Raven, and his other cows.

Across the Alps, such attacks once were a shocking rarity.

No longer.

Amid the sweeping economic changes jeopardizing farmers’ future, the creatures that for decades have defined the region’s landscape and culture – bovine stars of tourism campaigns – have become liabilities.

Another hiker was killed a year after the German woman died in 2014 and another in 2017.

Statistics are not kept by Austrian, Swiss, Italian or French authorities, but media reports of incidents have become increasingly common.

Nowadays, signs warning tourists in English, French, German and Italian are ubiquitous:

Cross pastures at your own risk.

Hotels display brochures on how to stay safe.

Olympic skiers and famous actors help to raise awareness in TV spots and online videos, often stressing:

The mountain pasture is no petting zoo.

Yet this summer, with many Europeans yearning for the outdoors after two years of living with coronavirus restrictions, there are worries that the hiking season will result in even more attacks.

Since June 2020, at least nine attacks have been reported.

Some might think this isn’t serious, but do you know how terrifying a herd of cows charging at you is, how fast and agile they are?“, said Andreas Freisinger, an optician living near Wien (Vienna).

It is a rheotrical question.

Freisinger (50) indeed knows.

An agitated herd came at him and his family while they were day-tripping on one of the highest mountains in the eastern Alps.

They escaped only because they let their dog off the leash and the cows pursued Junior as he fled into the forest.

When Freisinger went looking for the St. Bernard mix, he heard a rapid scuffing just before a lone cow knocked him to the ground.

I was fighting for my life.“, he recounted, describing how he aimed his kicks for the cow’s udders.

Even so, the animal cracked one of his shoulder blades, an orbital cavity, and several vertebrae and ribs, plus flattened his lungs and diaphragm with the weight of a grand piano.

Above: Andreas Freisinger

The scenery that annually draws 120 million tourists would not exist if not for cows grazing.

It has been cultivated over seven centuries of farmers driving their herds to mountainside meadows in the summer.

The animals’ hoofs firm the soil, their tongues gently groom the grasses and wildflowers.

In the process, they continuously sculpt verdant pastures.

All that seemed at stake when a court in the western state of Tyrol found Pfurtscheller solely responsible for the German woman’s death and ordered him to pay more than $210,000 in damages to her widower and son plus monthly restitution totalling $1,850.

Above: Flag of the Austrian state of Tyrol

The 2019 decision shocked farmers and not just in Neustift im Stubaital, a village of fewer than 5,000 inhabitants.

Above: Neustift im Stubaital, Tyrol, Österreich (Austria)

As foreclosure on Pfurtscheller’s home and farm loomed, some farmers contemplated banning hikers from their land, a move that would cut off access to the Alps.

Others threatened to stop taking their cows into the Alps altogether, a move that would allow nature to cut back in.

Forests would soon begin to take over.

This isn’t just about the farmers.

It is the wish of all Europeans to have the mountains open for hiking.”, warned Josef Lanzinger, head of the Alpine farming association in Tyrol.

This would mean the end of Alpine pastures.“, said Georg Strasser, president of Bauernbund, the national farmers association that is one of Austria’s most powerful lobbies.

Failing dairy and meat prices had already tightened the screws on farmers, Strasser told reporters after the Pfurtscheller ruling, and the spectre of lawsuits would prove too much to bear.

Governments quickly acted to keep cows on the pastures.

State governors, federal ministers, even the then-Austrian Chancellor Sebastian Kurz spoke out in support of Pfurtscheller, a man of 62 who has been farming since he was ten.

Last year, federal law was changed to block similar litigation.

New insurance policies now cover every farmer whose animals go wild.

Above: Sebastian Kurz (Chancellor: 2017 – 2019 / 2020 – 2021)

In May 2020, the Austrian Supreme Court of Justice upheld a revised lower court verdict that held the hiker equally culpable for the tragedy, cut her survivors’ compensation to $92,400 and halved their monthly restitution payments.

The verdict was a real blow, said Markus Hirn, the lawyer for her family.

But given how much political support the farmer had, it still feels like a win.

Above: Palace of Justice, Wien (Vienna), Österreich (Austria)

Farmers feel otherwise because of the pressures they are facing.

The steep Alpine terrain limits the amount of feed that can be grown and the number of cows that can be held.

On average, a farmer in Tyrol owns 12 cows, but the more dramatic the landscape gets, the lower that figure goes.

Hikers with dogs, as well as bike riders, add to cows’ stress.

(The casualty on Pfurtscheller’s farm was accompanied by a terrier.)

To the cows, dogs are direct descendants of wolves.”, Pfurtscheller said.

If you thought your child is in danger, wouldn’t you defend it?

Pfurtscheller has posted new signs on his land warning hikers to keep dogs away from mother cows at all times.

He fences his pastures.

People want the pastures, they want cows, and farmers in Lederhosen.“, Pfurtscheller said.

But nobody sees how much effort it is.

Nature teaches beasts to know their friends.

William Shakespeare, Coriolanus, Act 2, Scene 1

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

People watch with amazement a TV programme on the social lives of elephants – their family groupings, affections and mutual help, their sense of fun – without realizing that our own domestic cattle develop very similar lifestyles if given the opportunity.

Joanne Bower, The Farm and Food Society

Cows have far more awareness and know-how than they have ever been given credit for.

Watching cows and calves playing, grooming one another or being assertive, takes on a whole new dimension if you know that those taking part are siblings, cousins, friends or sworn enemies.

If you know animals as individuals you notice how often older brothers are kind to younger brothers, how sisters seek or avoid each other’s company, and which families always get together at night to sleep and which never do so.

Cows are as varied as people.

They can be highly intelligent or slow to understand.

Friendly, considerable, aggressive, docile, inventive, dull, proud or shy.

All these characteristics are present in a herd.

Cattle (Bos taurus) are large domesticated bovines.

They are most widespread species of the genus Bos.

Adult females are referred to as cows and adult males are referred to as bulls.

Cattle are commonly raised as livestock for meat (beef or veal), for milk, and for hides, which are used to make leather.

They are used as riding animals and draft animals (oxen or bullocks, which pull carts, plows and other implements).

Another product of cattle is their dung, which can be used to create manure or fuel.

Above: Cow dung – looks and smells: not pretty, but pretty useful

In some regions, such as parts of India, cattle have significant religious significance.

Cattle, mostly small breeds such as the Miniature Zebu, are also kept as pets.

Above: A Miniature Zebu cow

Different types of cattle are common to different geographic areas.

Taurine cattle are found primarily in Europe and temperate areas of Asia, the Americas and Australia. 

Zebus (also called indicine cattle) are found primarily in India and tropical areas of Asia, America, and Australia. 

Sanga cattle are found primarily in sub-Saharan Africa.

These types (which are sometimes classified as separate species or subspecies) are further divided into over 1,000 recognized breeds.

Around 10,500 years ago, taurine cattle were domesticated from as few as 80 wild aurochs progenitors in central Anatolia, the Levant and Western Iran.

A separate domestication event occurred in the Indian subcontinent, which gave rise to zebu.

According to the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), there are approximately 1.5 billion cattle in the world as of 2018.

Cattle are the main source of greenhouse gas emissions from livestock, and are responsible for around 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions.

In 2009, cattle became one of the first livestock animals to have a fully mapped genome.

Above: Global bovine distribution

I am Cow, hear me moo
I weigh twice as much as you
And I look good on the barbecue
Yogurt, curd, cream cheese and butter’s
Made from liquid from my udders
I am Cow, I am Cow, Hear me moo (moo)

I am Cow, eating grass
Methane gas comes out my ass
And out my muzzle when I belch
Oh, the ozone layer is thinner
From the outcome of my dinner
I am Cow, I am Cow, I’ve got gas

I am Cow, here I stand
Far and wide upon this land
And I am living everywhere
From BC to Newfoundland
You can squeeze my teats by hand
I am Cow, I am Cow, I am Cow
I am Cow, I am Cow, I am Cow!

Aggression in cattle is usually a result of fear, learning and hormonal state, however, many other factors can contribute to aggressive behaviors in cattle.

Temperament traits are known to be traits in which explain the behaviour and actions of an animal and can be described in the traits responsible for how easily an animal can be approached, handled, milked or trained.

Temperament can also be defined as how an animal carries out maternal or other behaviours while subjected to routine management.

These traits have the ability to change as the animal ages or as the environment in which the animal lives changes over time, however, it is proven that regardless of age and environmental conditions, some individuals remain more aggressive than others. 

Aggression in cattle can arise from both genetic and environmental factors.

Aggression between cows is worse than that between bulls.

Bulls with horns will bunt (push or strike with the horns) in which can cause more damage overall.

Most aggressive behaviours of cows include kicking, crushing and/or blunting.

There are many types of aggression that are seen in animals, particularly cattle, including maternal, feed, comfort influencing, pain induced, and stress induced aggressiveness.

There are many components to maternal behavior that are seen in cattle, including behavior that allows proper bonding between mother and baby, nursing behavior, attentiveness and how mother responds to offspring.

This maternal behavior is often seen in cattle during lactation as a prey species, this triggers the maternal instinct to protect their young from any threat and may use violent aggressive behaviors as a defense mechanism.

During lactation in prey species, including cattle, a reduction in fear responsiveness to novel and potentially dangerous situations facilitates the expression of defensive aggression in protection of the young.

It has also been proven however that aggression is not only performed in the protection of the offspring, but it can be directed to the offspring, in which could be directly related to fear.

This is commonly seen in cattle due to high stocking densities which could potentially decrease the amount of space each cow has, as well as limit their ability to have access to feed, even impacting the ruminal environment. 

It has been proven that supplying feed and water to cattle that are housed together may be heavily associated with feed aggression and aggressive actions towards others cows and within loose-housed cattle, feeding places are noted to have the highest amount of aggressive behaviours.

These are aggressive behaviors associated with lack of comfort, inadequate lying space or time in which the physical environment fails to provide the animal.

Cow comfort plays an important role in the well being as well as maximizing production as an industry.

Within many intensive production systems, it is very common to see limited space for resting, which can be associated with negative behaviors as not providing the appropriate space for the animal reduces resting and lying behavior, increasing irritability and the potential to act in aggressive behaviours.

Although not all production systems provide limited space and time for lying, uncomfortable stalls are also known to be a major problem when it comes to lying behaviour in cattle.

Decreasing the quality of resting area for cows will decrease resting time, and increase the likelihood of stress, abnormal and aggressive behaviours as the deprivation of lying/resting behaviors is proven to affect responses within the hypothalamic pituitary adrenal axis which is associated with chronic stress in the animal.

Not only lying time and space act as important regulators of comfort induced aggression, but other environmental factors may play a role in the comfort of an animal. 

Temperature has been shown to be a factor that influences the behavioral interactions between cattle.

It has been found that, by providing cows with the proper cooling environment or as heat decreases aggressive interactions in cattle will also decrease.

Cattle with access to more shade are known to show reduced physiological and behavioural responses to heat.

There are behaviours caused by some sort of stressor that can lead to aggressive advances towards themselves or other individuals.

A stressor is an object or event that can cause a real or perceived threat internally or externally to an animal. 

Stressors are common in farm animals such as dairy cows as they live in a complex environment where there are many stressors including:

  • novel objects (new objects such as handlers, food, or group mates)
  • social stimuli (different environments, new individuals)
  • restraint (physical restraint, moved to cubicles, transported).

Dairy cows specifically have been known to be very sensitive to new, unfamiliar events or objects such as being around an unfamiliar person, or presented with a novel food item.

Stress has extreme negative impacts on growth and reproduction in cattle, as the pituitary-adrenal system is very sensitive to different environmental stressors such as:

  • inadequate space
  • feed
  • poor quality housing
  • new objects or individuals
  • new living/housing system.

Pain is defined as an effective state and can only be truly measured indirectly in both humans and animals, that may present some challenges in decision making regarding pain management.

Many things can result in pain including: 

  • dehorning

  • tail docking

  • handling

  • castrating

  • mastitis

Above: A cow suffering mastitis

  • lameness

  • confinement

  • transportation

Lameness is a common issue seen in cattle, and may occur in facilities with poor management and housing systems, and inadequate handling skills.

It is because of this issue that many cows find themselves spending a lot of time lying down, instead of engaging in both aggressive (head butting, vocalizing, pushing) and non aggressive behaviors (licking, walking) due to the pain.

Techniques such as low stress handling (LSH) can be used as it provides silence, adequate restraint methods can help minimize stress levels in the animals.

Flight zones should be considered when handling or moving cattle, as they have a blind spot and may get spooked easily if unaware if there is an individual around.

Providing environments for cows in which minimize any environmental stressor can not only improve the wellbeing and welfare of the animal, but can also reduce aggressive behaviours.

Regular examinations (physical and physiological) should be done to determine the condition of the cow, which could show signs of cuts, or lesions, as well as the secretion or hormones inside the body such as cortisol.

Cortisol can be measured through blood sampling, urine, saliva or heart rate to indicate stress level of animal.

Assessing for lameness, as well as giving proper treatment depending on severity / location can include antibiotics.

Using proper treatment / prevention for pain when lameness is examined, as well as procedures such as tail docking, dehorning, castrating, mastitis lameness, etc.

The primary treatment in lame cows is corrective hoof pairing, which provides draining of abscesses, fixing any structural issue with the hoof, and reducing weight baring problems, however if lesions are seen in cattle, antibiotics or other measures may have to be taken to reduce further infection/irritation.

Setting breeding goals can be a potential way to select for desired temperamental traits, further decreasing the risk of raising aggressive cattle.

Before this method of selection can be entirely accurate and safe, however, some tests should be done, such as behaviour and temperament tests.

It is perhaps easier to assume that animals have no feelings.

They can then be used as generators of profit without any regard being given to their actual needs, as satisfying those needs is allegedly not worth the cost.

Happy animals grow faster, stay healthier, cause fewer problems and provide more profit in the long run, when all factors, such as the effects on human health and the environment are taken into account.

W.H. Hudson said:

Bear in mind that animals are only unhappy when made so by man.

Above: William Henry Hudson (1841 – 1922)

Bovine needs are in many respects the same as human ones:

  • freedom from stress
  • adequate shelter
  • pure food and water
  • liberty to exercise, to wander about, to go for a walk, or just to stand and stare.

Every animal needs congenial company of its own species.

A cow needs to be allowed to enjoy its rights in its own way, in its own time, and not according to a human timetable.

The number of different ways a calf may be treated is no fewer than the number of ways a child may be treated.

Most people believe that children need a stable environment with warmth and comfort, good clothes and shoes, food and drink, interesting diversions, friends of their own age and adults to guide and, above all, to love them.

We do not expect a well-balanced adult to emerge from a neglected, ill-nourished, lonely, frightened child.

The same logic should apply to farm animals.

The quality of the food and the overall environment of any living creature will determine its potential in later life.

The behaviour and health of all animals is affected by the quality of food they receive and the stress to which they are subjected.

If animals feel totally relaxed and safe and know themselves to be in a familiar environment, surroundings by family and friends, they will often sleep lying flat out.

They flop in a variety of often amusing positions and look anything from idyllically comfortable to dead.

Sleep may sometimes last only a very short time, but it is important and that they should not be disturbed.

It might sound eccentric to suggest that the reason an animal is bad-tempered is because it is short of sleep, but as sleeping is vital, deprivation will obviously do harm.

Animals can make up for deficiencies in their diet by foraging and finding what they need.

It is up to us to provide conditions in which they can be comfortable and happy enough to sleep well.

Twenty things you ought to know about cows:

  1. Cows love each other…..at least some do.
  2. Cows babysit for each other.
  3. Cows nurse grudges.
  4. Cows invent games.
  5. Cows take umbrage.
  6. Cows can communicate with people.
  7. Cows can solve problems.
  8. Cows make friends for life.
  9. Cows have food preferences.
  10. Cows can be unpredictable.
  11. Cows can be good company.
  12. Cows can be boring.
  13. Cows can be intelligent.
  14. Cows love music.
  15. Cows can be gentle.
  16. Cows can be aggressive.
  17. Cows can be dependable.
  18. Cows can be forgiving.
  19. Cows can be obstinate.
  20. Cows can be wise.

Cows are individuals and possess feelings, just like humans.

Thus, they can be as unpredictable as humans.

Let us consider Switzerland.

More than anything, it is the magnificent ranges enclosing the country to the south that define it.

The main draw for visitors, they have also played a profound role in forming Switzerland’s national identity.

They are the favourite recreation grounds for summer hiking and winter skiing.

Within this rugged environment, community spirit is perhaps stronger than anywhere else in Europe.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Switzerland is heaven for outdoor activities of all kinds.

You don’t have to be a mountaineer to enjoy an active holiday in the Alps.

Switzerland has some of Europe’s finest walking terrain with enough variety to suit every taste.

In the northwest the wooded Jura hills provide long views across the lowlands to Alpine giants.

Above: Jura Mountains

The Bernese Alps harbour a glacial heartland but also feature gentle valleys, pastoral ridges and charming hamlets with well-marked trails weaving through.

Above: Bernese Alps

On the south side of the Rhône Valley, the Pennine Alps are burdened with snow and glaciers, yet walkers’ paths lead along their moraines.

Above: Pennine Alps

In the mountains of Ticino, which are almost completely ice-free in summer, you will find trails galore linking modest, lake-jewelled peaks.

Above: Ticino mountains

In tourist areas walkers can use chairlifts, gondolas and cable cars in summer and autumn to reach high trails.

Paths are well-maintained and clearly marked with regular yellow signposts displaying the names of major landmark destinations, often with an estimate of the time it takes to walk to them. Most signposts also have a white plate giving the name and altitude of the spot you are standing on.

A Wanderweg / Chemin de randonnée pédestre / Sentiero escursionistico remains either in the valley or travels the hillsides at a modest attitude, is sometimes surfaced and will be graded at a relatively gentle angle.

Yellow diamonds or pointers show the continuation of the route.

No one should venture into the outdoors without consulting a good map.

In Switzerland, local shops and tourist offices usually stock a selection, including walkers’ maps with routes and times.

Always check the weather forecast before setting out.

Do not venture to high altitudes if bad weather is expected.

It is sensible to take a fleece and waterproof wherever you go.

On more ambitious outings it is essential with wind- and waterproof clothing and good footwear.

Frequent official avalanche bulletins are published online and publicized widely in mountain areas.

I have been caught outdoors overnight in the mountains.

Above: Logo of Swiss Air Rescue – (German: Schweizerische Rettungsflugwacht, French: Garde aérienne suisse de sauvetageRega)

It seems to me that I have heard of at least one major avalanche in the Alps for each year I lived in Switzerland.

I had heard of at least one fatality on the trails of Switzerland every year.

As a whole, Switzerland has 1.59 million cows, or one for every five people.

So there are victims of cattle aggression in Switzerland.

Two young hikers were airlifted to hospital with moderate injuries after being knocked to the ground by a cow in the canton of Nidwalden on Saturday, 24 August 2019 – the second such incident in the area in a month.

Above: Flag of Canton Nidwalden

The hikers suffered bruises and shock in the incident involving a herd of cattle and their calves on the Bannalp in the commune of Wolfenschiessen said in a statement.

Above: Wolfenschiessen, Nidenwalden, Switzerland

The walking track that the hikers was temporarily closed.

In addition, the herd of cows involved in the attack has been moved away from its high summer pasture and back down to the valley – a month earlier than planned.

The incident was the second attack by cows on the Bannalp track in two months.

In July 2019, a dog was trampled to death and the animal’s owner was injured.

Dogs were subsequently banned on the walking track for the duration of the summer.

Above: Bannalp

One local farmer told regional daily Luzerner Zeitung that the cause of the attacks lies in the difference between cattle and dairy cows.

Cattle behave differently to milk cows.

They are quicker to feel themselves under attack and to want to protect their calves, while they are also less used to humans because they are not milked.”, explained Wendel Odermatt.

He said it often only required an aggressive animal to incite an attack.

Herd instinct and the instinct to play also played a role, he added.

In the past, there had been less awareness of this problem because dairy cows dominated in pastures, he said.

Hikers are advised to take care with such herds.

Above: Wendel Odermatt

In the summer months hikers strolling through meadows in Switzerland often underestimate the danger posed by cows.

Far from being docile creatures, cows can be aggressive, especially if they are protecting their calves.

Fatal attacks are, thankfully, rare.

In 2015, a German tourist was killed by cattle when out walking in the Laax area of Graubünden, prompting the authorities to put up warning signs.

Above: Laax, Graubünden, Switzerland

To help avoid further injury, Blick newspaper compiled a list of helpful tips on crossing meadows safely.

The Swiss advisory service for agricultural accident prevention BUL recommends walkers avoid:

–       wearing very bright or garishly coloured clothing

–       making loud noises or high-pitched sounds

–       taking a dog with you, as dogs are seen as a threat

–       looking the cow in the eye and sustained eye contact.

The BUL also offers advice to hikers who find themselves at risk of attack:

–       Back away slowly but do not avert your gaze.

–       Use a walking stick (Alpenstock) to defend yourself if attacked.

–       If you have a dog, let it off the lead, so the cow will concentrate on the dog instead of you.

Above: Jacques Balmat (1762 – 1834) carrying an axe and an alpenstock

The advisory service says the main piece of advice is to always keep quiet when crossing meadows and to observe the behaviour of the herd.

You should also keep as far away from the animals as possible.

Consider Türkiye.

Above: Flag of Turkey

Trails in Türkiye beckon.

Head for the hills on a wonderful waymarked hiking trail, like the Lycian Way or St. Paul Trail.

The exhilarating Lycian Way long-distance trail weaves its way through the westernmost reaches of the Toros.

Inaugurated in 2000, the Lycian Way runs parallel to much of the Turquoise Coast,

In theory, it takes five weeks to complete the entire trail, but most walkers sample it in stages rather than tackling it all in one go.

Starting above Ölüdeniz and ending just shy of Antalya, the trail takes in choice mountain landscapes and seascapes en route, with many optional detours to Roman or Byzantine ruins not found in conventional guidebooks.

Some of the wildest sections lie between Kabak and Gavuragli, above the Yediburun coast, and between Kas and Üçagiz.

Elevation en route varies from sea level to 1,800 metres on the saddle of Tahtali Dağ.

The best walking seasons along most of the way are October (pleasantly warm) or April / May (when water is plentiful and the days long), except in the highest mountain stages.

Summer is out of the question.

Above: The Lycian Way

The route itself ranges from rough boulder-strewn trails to brief stretches of asphalt, by way of forested paths, cobbled or revetted Byzantine/Ottoman roads and tractor tracks.

While the entire distance is marked with the conventional red-and-white blazes used in Europe, plus occasional metal signs giving distances to the next key destination, waymarks can be absent when you need them most.

Continual bulldozing of existing footpath stretches into jeep tracks is such a major problem that the notional initial section between Hisarönü and Kirme has now ceased to exist, with most hikers starting at Faralya, while periodic maintenance (and where necessary rerouting) barely keeps pace with fast-growing scrub and rockfalls.

Above: Map of the Lycian Way

The more challenging St. Paul Trail crosses the range from south to north.

Opened in 2004, the rugged St. Paul Trail offers over 500 km of trekking in the spectacularly beautiful Toros Mountains.

Waymarked to international standards, with red and white flashes on rocks and trees, it allows relatively easy explorations of a remote, unspoiled area of Turkey.

Above: Saint Paul Trail

The twin starting points of the route are the ancient cities of Perge and Aspendos on the Mediterranean coastal plain.

It was from Perge that St. Paul set out in 46 CE, on his first proselytizing journey.

Above: Perge

His destination was the Roman colonial town of Antioch ad Pisidiam, where he first preached Christ’s message to non-Jews.

Above: Antiocheia in Psidia

En route from the Mediterranean to the Anatolian plateau, the Trail crosses tumbling mountain rivers, climbs passes between limestone peaks that soar to almost 3,000 metres, dips into deeply scored canyons.

It weaves beneath shady pine and cedar forest.

It even includes a boat ride across the glimmering expanse of Lake Egirdir.

Hikers interested in archaeology can discover remote, little-known Roman sites and walk along original sections of Roman road.

The irrevocably active can raft the Köprülü River, scale 2,635-metre Mount Davraz and 2799-metre Mount Barla.

Both trails are marked with red-and-white paint flashes and take in some stunning mountain and gorge scenery, remote ancient sites and timeless villages.

Other trails have also sprung up.

These include:

  • the Evliya Çelebi Way in northwest Turkey, a trail suitable for horse riders and walkers

Above: Map of the Evliya Çelebi Way

The Evliya Çelebi Way is a cultural trekking route celebrating the early stages of the journey made in 1671 to Mecca by the eponymous Ottoman Turkish gentleman-adventurer, Evliya Çelebi.

Evliya travelled the Ottoman Empire and beyond for some 40 years, leaving a ten-volume account of his journeys.

Above: Statue of Evliya Çelebi, Eger Castle, Hungary

The Evliya Çelebi Way is a 600+ km-long trail for horse riders, hikers and bikers.

It begins at Hersek (a village in Altinova district), on the south coast of the Izmit Gulf, and traces Evliya’s pilgrimage journey via Iznik, Yenisehir, Inegöl, Kütahya (his ancestral home), Afyonkarahisar, Usak, Eski Gediz and Simav.

(Heavy urbanisation prevents the Way entering either Istanbul, from where he set out in 1671, or Bursa.)

The Evliya Çelebi Way was inaugurated in autumn 2009 by a group of Turkish and British riders and academics.

A guidebook to the route, both English and Turkish, includes practical information for the modern traveller, day-by-day route descriptions, maps, photos, historical and architectural background, notes on the environment, and summaries of Evliya’s description of places he saw when he travelled in the region, paired with what the visitor may see today.

  • Abraham’s Path, linking Yuvacali village with Harran and the Syrian border

Above: Map of the Abraham Path

The small village of Yuvacali, set amid bleached fields of wheat, lentils and chickpeas, huddles at the foot of a prominent settlement mound as ancient as nearby Göbekli Tepe, not far from the market town of Hilvan.

Here you can stay in a Kurdish village home and try your hand at milking sheep and baking unleavened village bread.

You will also be introduced to Kurdish history and culture, taken on a one-hour 30-minute walk around the village and its ruins.

Perhaps walk a part of the waymarked Abraham Path, which starts here.

Above: Yuvacali

The Abraham Path is a cultural route believed to have been the path of the patriarch Abraham’s ancient journey across the Ancient Near East.

The path was established in 2007 as a pilgrims’ way to mimic the historical believed route of Abraham, between his birthplace of Ur of the Chaldees, believed by some to have been Urfa, Turkey, and his final destination of the desert of Negev.

Above: Sanliurfa, Turkey

Above: Ein Avdat, Negev Desert, Israel

Abraham/Ibrahim is believed to have lived in the Bronze Age.

He travelled with family and flocks throughout the Fertile Crescent, the Arabian peninsula, and the Nile Valley.

His story has inspired myriad communities, including Kurds, Muslims, Jews, Christians, Alevi, Bedouin, Fellahin, Samaritans, and countless across the world.

The Abraham Path Initiative aims to build on this narrative of shared connection with its rich tradition of walking and hospitality to strangers.

The main historical Abrahamic sites on the current path are: 

  • Urfa, the birthplace of Abraham according to some Muslim traditions 
  • Harran, according to the Hebrew Bible, a town Abraham lived in, and from which he received the call to start the main part of his journey 

Above: Harran, Türkiye

  • Jerusalem, the scene for the binding of Isaac upon the Foundation Stone, according to the Hebrew Bible

Above: Jerusalem, Israel

  • Hebron, the location of the tomb of Abraham and his wife Sarah, according to Jewish, Christian and Muslim traditions.

Above: Hebron, Israel

  • the Carian Way on the southwest Aegean coast

Above: Map of the Carian Trail

The Carian Trail (Karia Yolu) is an 820 km long-distance footpath exploring the southwestern corner of Turkey through the modern provinces of Mugla and Aydin.

The trail is officially opened in 2013 and winds through some of the lesser known regions of Turkey.

The trail is named after the Carian civilization, indigenous people of Asia Minor.

Above: Inscription in Carian script

It passes through an area with many ancient ruins.

Stone paved caravan roads and mule paths connect villages from the coast to a mountainous hinterland.

There are pine forest covered mountain slopes, olive terraces and almond groves which are an important part of the region’s economy.

The trail is signed and waymarked with red and white stripes (Grande Randonée convention) allowing both independent and group travellers from inside and outside of Turkey to hike and enjoy the scenic beauty and cultural treasures of Caria.

Above: Carian Trail, Muğla

The 820 km long trail has four main sections: 

  • Bozburun
  • Datça Peninsula
  • Gulf of Gökova
  • Carian Hinterland
  • with an additional section that encompass Mugla and surrounding regions. 

All of the trail has been divided into 46 stages.

It also includes a smaller 11 km long section called Dalyan, which is isolated from other sections. Some sections and stages can be cycled.

Above: Carian Trail signage

Bozburun Peninsula section is 141.2 km long and is the official starting point of the Trail. 

It starts from Içmeler and follows Turunç, Kumlubük, Bayır, Taşlıca, Söğüt, Bozburun, Selimiye, Orhaniye, and ends in Hisarönü.

Above: Bozburun

Datça Peninsula is 240.7 km of length.

The section starts from the old town of Datça, and follows Hızırşah, Domuzçukuru, Mesudiye, Palamutbükü, Knidos, Karaköy, Kızlan, Emecik, Balıkaşıran, Akçapınar, and ends in Akyaka.

The part from Balıkaşıran to Akyaka can also be biked.

Above: Datça

The Ceramic Gulf (Gulf of Gökova) is a section with 139.2 km of trail.

The section starts from Akyaka and heads west following Turnalı, Sarnıç, Akbük, Alatepe, Ören (Ceramos), Türkevleri, Bozalan, Mazı, Çiftlik, Kızılağaç and arrives in Bodrum (Halicarnassos) finishing in ancient city of Pedasa.

Above: Akyaka

Carian Hinterland section is 174.2 km long and starts from Bozalan heading north and follows Fesleğen, Karacahisar, Milas (Mylasa), Kargıcak, Labraunda, Sarıkaya, Çomakdağ, Kayabükü, Sakarkaya and arrives at the shores of Lake Bafa.

Heading up the Latmos (Mentese mountains) the Trail continues to the summit (1,350 m), Bağarcık, Kullar, Yahşiler, Tekeler, and finishes in Karpuzlu (Alinda) which is the official finish of the Carian Trail.

Above: Karpuzlu

Mugla Environs section consists of 108.5 km of trail.

Heading north to Akyaka, the section passes through Kuyucak, Karabaglar, Mugla, Degirmendere Kanyonu, Ekizce, Bayir, Belen Kahvesi and finishes in the ancient city of Stratonikeia.

It is possible to bike most of this section.

Above: Theatre, Stratonikeia

Dalyan is the smallest section of the trail with only 11 km of length.

The route starts from Dalyan and passes by Kaunos, a historically important sea port with a history that can be tracked back to the 10th century BCE.

The Trail ends in Ekincik Bay.

Above: Dalyan

  • the Phrygian Way

Above: Phrygian Trail map

The Phrygian Trekking Route is one of the longest hiking trails in Türkiye.

Planned with great care for the comfort and enjoyment of hikers, the route passes through the renowned Phrygian Valleys where hikers may visit the ruins of ancient civilisations and enjoy the natural beauty of the region.

The trekking route is 506 kilometres long, and is marked in accordance with international standards.

The route has three starting points and the trails meet at the Yazilikaya (Inscribed Rock), which was a focal point for the Phrygians.

Hikers may start the route at the following points:

1) Gordium (Polatli, Ankara)

Above: Gordion

2) Seydiler (Afyonkarahisar)

Above: Seyydis

3) Yenice Farm Ciftligi (Ahmetoglu Village, Kutahya).

Above: Ahmetoglu

The trail starts at Gordium, the political capital of the Phrygians, then follows the valley of the Porsuk (ancient Tembris) River, passes through Sivrihisar (ancient Spaleia), and arrives at Pessinous (Ballikaya), another important Phrygian settlement.

Above: Sivrihisar

Above: Pessinous

The Trail then enters the valley of the Sakarya (ancient Sangarius) River, where you enter a completely different world.

After the Sakarya Valley, the Trail enters the region known as Mountainous Phrygia.

The Trail then reaches the Yazilikaya, the site of the Midas monument which formed the cult centre of the Phrygians.

Above: Yazilikaya

Here the trail splits into two.

One branch leads to Findikli Village passing through the Asmainler, Zahran, and Inli Valleys, once home to Phrygian settlements.

Above: Findikli

This branch terminates at Yenice Farm on the highway between Kutahya and Eskişehir.

Above: Yenice Farm

The other branch passes through Saricaova, a picturesque Circassian village, and Döğer, town in Afyonkarahisar.

Above: Sancaova, Afyonkarahisar Province

Above: Döğer

The Trail then takes you through Ayazini Town before coming to an end at Seydiler, on the highway between Afyonkarahisar and Ankara.

Hikers who complete these trails will treasure the memory forever.

Above: Byzantine Church, Ayazini

The alpine Kaçkar Dağlari, paralleling the Black Sea, are the most rewarding mountains in Turkey for trekking.

Above: Kaçkar Daği

Also noteworthy are the limestone Toros (Taurus) ranges, especially the lofty Aladağlar mountains south of Cappadocia.

Above: Demirkazik Crest of Aladağ Mountain

Türkiye’s wild mountain ranges are a treat for experienced hikers prepared to carry their own tents and food and cope with few facilities.

The lack of decent maps maps makes mountain exploration a real adventure, but the unspoiled countryside, the hospitality of rural Turks, the fascination of yaylas (summer pastures), and the friendliness of other mountaineers more than compensate.

Above: The Black Sea’s mountain pastures – Türkiye’s very own Switzerland

Turkish trails pass through pastures.

Pastures provide fodder for flocks of sheep and herds of cattle.

The cattle number estimate for 2019 was 15.8 million head.

Chances are a hiker in Türkiye will encounter a cow.

Hopefully, without incident.

In the two nations wherein I am classified as a resident, there remain many trails I long to explore.

My attitude to nature, despite my not being a vegetarian, tends to be one of compassion and cooperation rather than confrontation and conflict.

I would rather be a Wordsworth than a wilderness warrior.

Above: William Wordsworth (1770 – 1850)

William Wordsworth is estimated to have walked a distance of over 175,000 English miles in the course of his life, a life of unclouded happiness.

Wordsworth made walking central to his life and art to a degree almost unparalleled before or since.

He went walking almost every day of his adult life.

Walking was both how he encountered the world and how he composed his poetry.

For Wordsworth, walking was not merely a mode of travelling, but of being.

A walk in the country is the equivalent of going to church, a tour through Westmoreland is as good as a pilgrimage to Jerusalem.

Aldous Huxley

Above: Aldous Huxley (1894 – 1963)

But not all men view the cow as one of God’s creatures.

Not all men avoid the potential aggression of cattle.

Some seek to provoke a beast to rage.

Above: Spanish bullfight underway in the Plaza de Toros Las Ventas in Madrid, 9 October 2005

Bullfighting is a physical contest that involves a bullfighter and animals attempting to subdue, immobilize, or kill a bull, usually according to a set of rules, guidelines, or cultural expectations.

There are several variations, including some forms which involve dancing around or leaping over a cow or bull or attempting to grasp an object tied to the animal’s horns.

The best-known form of bullfighting is Spanish-style bullfighting, practiced in Spain, Portugal, southern France, Mexico, Colombia, Ecuador, Venezuela and Peru.

The Spanish fighting bull is deliberately bred for its aggression and physique, and is raised free range with little human contact.

Above: Bullfight, Plaza de toros de La Malagueta, Málaga, Spain, 15 August 2018

The practice of bullfighting is controversial because of a range of concerns, including animal welfare, funding, and religion.

While some forms are considered a blood sport, in some countries, for example, Spain, it is defined as an art form or cultural event, and local regulations define it as a cultural event or heritage. 

Bullfighting is illegal in most countries, but remains legal in most areas of Spain and Portugal, as well as in some Hispanic American countries and some parts of southern France.

Above: Bullfight, Arles, France, 7 February 2005

Bullfighting traces its roots to prehistoric bull worship and sacrifice in Mesopotamia and the Mediterranean region.

The first recorded bullfight may be the Epic of Gilgamesh, which describes a scene in which Gilgamesh and Enkidu fought and killed the Bull of Heaven:

The Bull seemed indestructible, for hours they fought, till Gilgamesh dancing in front of the Bull, lured it with his tunic and bright weapons, and Enkidu thrust his sword, deep into the Bull’s neck, and killed it.”

Bull leaping was portrayed in Crete and myths related to bulls throughout Greece.

Above: Bull leaping fresco, Knossos, Crete

Bullfighting and the killing of the sacred bull was commonly practiced in ancient Iran and connected to the pre-Zoroastrian god Mithra.

Above: Relief of Mithra, Taq-e Bustan, Iran

The cosmic connotations of the ancient Iranian practice are reflected in Zoroaster’s Gathas and the Avesta.

Above: Depiction of Zoroaster

The killing of the sacred bull (tauroctony) is the essential central iconic act of Mithras, which was commemorated in the mithraeum (temple of Mithras) wherever Roman soldiers were stationed.

The oldest representation of what seems to be a man facing a bull is on the Celtiberian tombstone from Clunia (an ancient Roman city) and the cave painting El toro de hachos, both found in Spain.

Bullfighting is often linked to Rome, where many human-versus-animal events were held as competition and entertainment, the Venationes.

These hunting games spread to Africa, Asia and Europe during Roman times.

Above: Mithras killing a bull

There are also theories that it was introduced into Hispania by the Emperor Claudius as a substitute for gladiators, when he instituted a short-lived ban on gladiatorial combat.

Above: Bust of Claudius (10 BCE – 54 CE)

The latter theory was supported by Robert Graves.

Above: Robert Graves (1895 – 1985)

Spanish colonists took the practice of breeding cattle and bullfighting to the American colonies, the Pacific and Asia.

In the 19th century, areas of southern and southwestern France adopted bullfighting, developing their distinctive form.

Above: The Roman amphitheater at Arles being fitted for a corrida

Religious festivities and royal weddings were celebrated by fights in the local plaza, where noblemen would ride competing for royal favor, and the populace enjoyed the excitement.

In the Middle Ages across Europe, knights would joust in competitions on horseback.

Above: Jousting

In Spain, they began to fight bulls.

In medieval Spain bullfighting was considered a noble sport and reserved for the rich, who could afford to supply and train their animals.

The bull was released into a closed arena where a single fighter on horseback was armed with a lance.

Above: Bull monument, Ronda, Spain

This spectacle was said to be enjoyed by Charlemagne, Alfonso X “the Wise“, and the Almohad caliphs (1121 – 1269), among others.

Above: Bust of Charlemagne (747 – 814)





Above: Portrait of Alfonso X (1221 – 1284)

Above: Almohad Empire at its greatest extent

The greatest Spanish performer of this art is said to have been the knight El Cid (1043 – 1099).

Above: El Cid, Francisco de Goya, 1816

According to a chronicle of the time, in 1128:

When Alfonso VII of Léon and Castile married Berengaria of Barcelonadaughter of Ramon Berenguer III, Count of Barcelona at Saldana, among other celebrations, there were also bullfights.

Above: Portrait of Alfonso VII (1105 – 1157)

Above: Effigy of Berenguela (1116 – 1149), Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Spain

Above: Portrait of Ramon Berenguer IV (r. 1086 – 1131)

In the time of Emperor Charles V, Pedro Ponce de Leon was the most famous bullfighter in Spain and a renovator of the technique of killing the bull on a horse with blindfolded eyes. 

Above: Portrait of Charles V (1500 – 1558)

Juan de Quirós, the best Sevillian poet of that time, dedicated to him a poem in Latin, of which Benito Arias Montano transmits some verses.

Above: Portrait of Juan de Quirós (1487 – 1562)

Above: Benito Arias Montano (1527 – 1598)

Francisco Romero, from Ronda, Spain, is generally regarded as having been the first to introduce the practice of fighting bulls on foot around 1726, using the muleta (a stick with a red cloth sticking from it) in the last stage of the fight and an estoc (a long two-handed sword) to kill the bull.

This type of fighting drew more attention from the crowds.

Thus the modern corrida, or fight, began to take form, as riding noblemen were replaced by commoners on foot.

This new style prompted the construction of dedicated bullrings, initially square, like the Plaza de Armas (main square), and later round, to discourage the cornering of the action.

Above: Portrait of Francisco Romero (1700 – 1763)

The modern style of Spanish bullfighting is credited to Juan Belmonte, generally considered the greatest matador of all time.

Belmonte introduced a daring and revolutionary style, in which he stayed within a few centimeters of the bull throughout the fight.

Although extremely dangerous – (Belmonte was gored on many occasions.) – his style is still seen by most matadors as the ideal to be emulated.

Above: Juan Belmonte (1892 – 1962), on the cover of Time, 5 January 1925

Spanish-style bullfighting is called corrida de toros (“coursing of bulls“) or la fiesta (“festival”).

In the traditional corrida, three matadores each fight two bulls, each of which is between four and six years old and weighs no less than 460 kg (1,014 lb).

Each matador has six assistants:

Two picadores (lancers mounted on horseback), three banderilleros  – who along with the matadors are collectively known as toreros (bullfighters) – and a mozo de espadas (sword page).

Collectively they comprise a cuadrilla (entourage).

Above: Bullfight, Barcelona, Spain, 1900

In Spanish the more general torero or diestro (‘right-hander’) is used for the lead fighter, and only when needed to distinguish a man is the full title matador de toros used.

In English, “matador” is generally used for the bullfighter.

Above: Enrique Simonet’s La suerte de varas (1899) depicts Spanish-style bullfighting in a bullring, Madrid, Spain

The modern corrida is highly ritualized, with three distinct stages or tercios (“thirds“) – the start of each being announced by a bugle sound.

The participants enter the arena in a parade, called the paseíllo, to salute the presiding dignitary, accompanied by band music.

Torero costumes are inspired by 17th-century Andalusian clothing, and matadores are easily distinguished by the gold of their traje de luces (“suit of lights“), as opposed to the lesser banderilleros, who are also known as toreros de plata (“bullfighters of silver“).

The bull is released into the ring, where he is tested for ferocity by the matador and banderilleros with the magenta and gold capote (“cape“).

This is the first stage, the tercio de varas (“the lancing third“).

The matador confronts the bull with the capote, performing a series of passes and observing the behavior and quirks of the bull.

Next, a picador enters the arena on horseback armed with a vara (lance).

To protect the horse from the bull’s horns, the animal wears a protective, padded covering called peto.

Prior to 1930, the horses did not wear any protection.

Often the bull would disembowel the horse during this stage.

Until the use of protection was instituted, the number of horses killed during a fiesta generally exceeded the number of bulls killed.

At this point, the picador stabs just behind the morrillo, a mound of muscle on the fighting bull’s neck, weakening the neck muscles and leading to the animal’s first loss of blood.

The manner in which the bull charges the horse provides important clues to the matador about the bull such as which horn the bull favours.

As a result of the injury and also the fatigue of striving to injure the armoured heavy horse, the bull holds its head and horns slightly lower during the following stages of the fight.

This ultimately enables the matador to perform the killing thrust later in the performance.

The encounter with the picador often fundamentally changes the behavior of a bull.

Distracted and unengaging bulls will become more focused and stay on a single target instead of charging at everything that moves, conserving their diminished energy reserves.

In the next stage, the tercio de banderillas (“the third of banderillas“), each of the three banderilleros attempts to plant two banderillas, sharp barbed sticks, into the bull’s shoulders.

These anger and agitate the bull reinvigorating him from the aplomado (‘leadened‘) state his attacks on the horse and injuries from the lance left him in.

Sometimes a matador will place his own banderillas.

If so, he usually embellishes this part of his performance and employs more varied maneuvers than the standard al cuarteo method commonly used by banderilleros.

In the final stage, the tercio de muerte (“the third of death“), the matador re-enters the ring alone with a smaller red cloth, or muleta, and a sword.

It is a common misconception that the colour red is supposed to anger the bull.

The animals are functionally colour blind in this respect:

The bull is incited to charge by the movement of the muleta. 

The muleta is thought to be red to mask the bull’s blood, although the colour is now a matter of tradition.

The matador uses his muleta to attract the bull in a series of passes, which serve the dual purpose of wearing the animal down for the kill and creating sculptural forms between man and animal that can fascinate or thrill the audience, and which when linked together in a rhythm create a dance of passes, or faena.

The matador will often try to enhance the drama of the dance by bringing the bull’s horns especially close to his body.

The faena refers to the entire performance with the muleta.

The faena is usually broken down into tandas, or “series“, of passes.

The faena ends with a final series of passes in which the matador, using the cape, tries to maneuver the bull into a position to stab it between the shoulder blades going over the horns and thus exposing his own body to the bull.

The sword is called estoque, and the act of thrusting the sword is called an estocada.

During the initial series, while the matador in part is performing for the crowd, he uses a fake sword (estoque simulado).

This is made of wood or aluminum, making it lighter and much easier to handle.

The estoque de verdad (real sword) is made out of steel.

At the end of the tercio de muerte, when the matador has finished his faena, he will change swords to take up the steel one.

He performs the estocada with the intent of piercing the heart or aorta, or severing other major blood vessels to induce a quick death if all goes according to plan.

Often this does not happen and repeated efforts must be made to bring the bull down, sometimes the matador changing to the ‘descabello‘, which resembles a sword, but is actually a heavy dagger blade at the end of a steel rod which is thrust between the cervical vertebrae to sever the spinal column and induce instant death.

Even if the descabello is not required and the bull falls quickly from the sword one of the banderilleros will perform this function with an actual dagger to ensure the bull is dead.

If the matador has performed particularly well, the crowd may petition the President by waving white handkerchiefs to award the matador an ear of the bull.

If his performance was exceptional, the President will award two ears.

In certain more rural rings, the practice includes an award of the bull’s tail.

Very rarely, if the public and the matador believe that the bull has fought extremely bravely – and the breeder of the bull agrees to have it return to the ranch – the event’s President may grant a pardon (indulto).

If the indulto is granted, the bull’s life is spared.

It leaves the ring alive and is returned to its home ranch for treatment and then to become a semental, or seed-bull, for the rest of its life.

Spanish-style bullfighting is normally fatal for the bull, but it is also dangerous for the matador.

The danger for the bullfighter is essential.

If there is no danger, it is not considered bullfighting in Spain.

Matadors are usually gored every season, with picadors and banderilleros being gored less often.

With the discovery of antibiotics and advances in surgical techniques, fatalities are now rare, although over the past three centuries 534 professional bullfighters have died in the ring or from injuries sustained there.

Above: Francisco de Goya, Death of the Picador, 1793

Most recently, Iván Fandiño died of injuries he sustained after being gored by a bull on 17 June 2017, in Aire-sur-l’Adour, France.

Above: Iván Fandiño (1980 – 2017)

Some matadors, notably Juan Belmonte, have been seriously gored many times:

According to Ernest Hemingway, Belmonte’s legs were marred by many ugly scars.

A special type of surgeon has developed, in Spain and elsewhere, to treat cornadas, or horn wounds.

Above: Juan Belmonte (1892 – 1962)

A digression about Hemingway:

Ernest Miller Hemingway (1899 – 1961) was an American novelist, short-story writer, and journalist.

His economical and understated style — which he termed the iceberg theory — had a strong influence on 20th-century fiction, while his adventurous lifestyle and public image brought him admiration from later generations.

Hemingway produced most of his work between the mid-1920s and the mid-1950s.

He was awarded the 1954 Nobel Prize in Literature.

He published seven novels, six short-story collections, and two nonfiction works.

Three of his novels, four short-story collections, and three nonfiction works were published posthumously.

Many of his works are considered classics of American literature.

Above: Ernest Hemingway (1899 – 1961)

A digression within a digression:

The iceberg theory (or theory of omission) is a writing technique coined by American writer Ernest Hemingway.

As a young journalist, Hemingway had to focus his newspaper reports on immediate events, with very little context or interpretation.

When he became a writer of short stories, he retained this minimalistic style, focusing on surface elements without explicitly discussing underlying themes.

Hemingway believed the deeper meaning of a story should not be evident on the surface, but should shine through implicitly.

In 1923, Hemingway conceived of the idea of a new theory of writing after finishing his short story “Out of Season“.

In A Moveable Feast (1964), his posthumously published memoirs about his years as a young writer in Paris, he explains:

I omitted the real end of “Out of Season” which was that the old man hanged himself.

This was omitted on my new theory that you could omit anything.

The omitted part would strengthen the story.” 

In chapter 16 of Death in the Afternoon he compares his theory about writing to an iceberg.

Hemingway’s biographer Carlos Baker believed that as a writer of short stories Hemingway learned:

How to get the most from the least, how to prune language and avoid waste motion, how to multiply intensities, and how to tell nothing but the truth in a way that allowed for telling more than the truth.

Baker also notes that the writing style of the “iceberg theory” suggests that a story’s narrative and nuanced complexities, complete with symbolism, operate under the surface of the story itself.

For example, Hemingway believed a writer could describe an action, such as Nick Adams fishing in “Big Two-Hearted River“, while conveying a different message about the action itself — Nick Adams concentrating on fishing to the extent that he does not have to think about the unpleasantness of his war experience. 

In his essay “The Art of the Short Story“, Hemingway is clear about his method:

A few things I have found to be true.

If you leave out important things or events that you know about, the story is strengthened.

If you leave or skip something because you do not know it, the story will be worthless.

The test of any story is how very good the stuff that you, not your editors, omit.” 

A writer explained how it brings a story gravitas:

Hemingway said that only the tip of the iceberg showed in fiction — your reader will see only what is above the water — but the knowledge that you have about your character that never makes it into the story acts as the bulk of the iceberg.

And that is what gives your story weight and gravitas.

Jenna Blum , The Author at Work

From reading Rudyard Kipling, Hemingway absorbed the practice of shortening prose as much as it could take.

Above: Rudyard Kipling (1865 – 1936)

Of the concept of omission, Hemingway wrote in “The Art of the Short Story“:

You could omit anything if you knew that you omitted and the omitted part would strengthen the story and make people feel something more than they understood.

By making invisible the structure of the story, he believed the author strengthened the piece of fiction and that the “quality of a piece could be judged by the quality of the material the author eliminated.

His style added to the aesthetic: using “declarative sentences and direct representations of the visible world” with simple and plain language, Hemingway became “the most influential prose stylist in the 20th century” according to biographer Meyers.

In her paper “Hemingway’s Camera Eye“, Zoe Trodd explains that Hemingway uses repetition in prose to build a collage of snapshots to create an entire picture.

Of his iceberg theory, she claims, it “is also a glacier waterfall, infused with movement by his multi-focal aesthetic“.

Furthermore, she believes that Hemingway’s iceberg theory “demanded that the reader feel the whole story” and that the reader is meant to “fill the gaps left by his omissions with their feelings“.

Above: Zoe Trodd

Hemingway scholar Jackson Benson believes Hemingway used autobiographical details to work as framing devices to write about life in general — not only about his life.

For example, Benson postulates that Hemingway used his experiences and drew them out further with “what if” scenarios:

What if I were wounded in such a way that I could not sleep at night?

What if I were wounded and made crazy, what would happen if I were sent back to the front?

By separating himself from the characters he created, Hemingway strengthens the drama.

The means of achieving a strong drama is to minimize, or omit, the feelings that produced the fiction he wrote.

Hemingway’s iceberg theory highlights the symbolic implications of art.

He makes use of physical action to provide an interpretation of the nature of man’s existence.

It can be convincingly proved that, “while representing human life through fictional forms, he has consistently set man against the background of his world and universe to examine the human situation from various points of view.”

We return to the larger digression:

Hemingway was raised in Oak Park, Illinois.

After high school, he was a reporter for a few months for the Kansas City Star before leaving for the Italian Front to enlist as an ambulance driver in World War I.

In 1918, he was seriously wounded and returned home.

His wartime experiences formed the basis for his novel A Farewell to Arms (1929).

In the 1920s Hemingway lived in Paris as a foreign correspondent for the Toronto Star.

Americans were drawn to Paris in the Roaring Twenties by the favourable exchange rate, with as many as 200,000 English-speaking expatriates living there.

The Paris Tribune reported in 1925 that Paris had an American hospital, an American library, and an American Chamber of Commerce. 

Many American writers were disenchanted with the US, where they found less artistic freedom than in Europe.

(For example, Hemingway was in Paris during the period when Ulysses, written by his friend James Joyce, was banned and burned in New York.)

Above: James Joyce (1882 – 1941)

Hemingway travelled to Smyrna to report on the Greco-Turkish War (1919 – 1922).

He wanted to use his journalism experience to write fiction, believing that a story could be based on real events when a writer distilled his own experiences in such a way that, according to biographer Jeffrey Meyers, “what he made up was truer than what he remembered“.

Above: The Great Fire of Smyrna, 13 – 22 September 1922

In 1921, he married Hadley Richardson (1891 – 1979), the first of four wives.

Above: Hadley and Ernest Hemingway in Chamby, Switzerland, 1922

With his wife Hadley, Hemingway first visited the Festival of San Fermin in Pamplona in 1923, where he was following his recent passion for bullfighting.

Above: Festival of San Fermin, Pamplona, Spain

The couple returned to Pamplona in 1924 — enjoying the trip immensely — this time accompanied by Chink Dorman-Smith, John Dos Passos, Donald Ogden Stewart and his wife.

Above: Major General Sir Eric “Chink” Dorman-Smith (1895 – 1969): Major General Dorman-Smith (left) talking with the Chief of the Imperial General Staff, General Sir Alan Brooke at El Alamein.

Above: John dos Passos (1896 – 1970)

Above: Donald Ogden Stewart (1894 – 1980)

The Hemingways returned a third time in June 1925 and stayed at the hotel of his friend Juanito Quintana.

Above: Juanito Quintana (1891 – 1974)

That year, they brought with them a different group of American and British expatriates: Hemingway’s Michigan boyhood friend Bill Smith, Stewart, recently divorced Duff, Lady Twysden, her lover Pat Guthrie, and Harold Loeb.

Above: Always exploring, Ernest Hemingway spent much of his youth exploring northern Michigan. Here he seen canoeing as a young man.

Above: Mary Duff Stirling Smurthwaite, Lady Twysden (1891 – 1938)

Above: Harold Loeb (1891 – 1974)

Hemingway’s memory spanning multiple trips might explain the inconsistent timeframe in the novel indicating both 1924 and 1925.

In Pamplona, the group quickly disintegrated.

Above: Hemingway (left), with Harold Loeb, Duff Twysden (in hat), Hadley Richardson, Donald Ogden Stewart (obscured), and Pat Guthrie (far right) at a café in Pamplona, Spain, July 1925

Hemingway, attracted to Duff, was jealous of Loeb, who had recently been on a romantic getaway with her.

By the end of the week the two men had a public fistfight.

Against this background was the influence of the young matador from Ronda, Cayetano Ordóñez, whose brilliance in the bullring affected the spectators.

Ordóñez honored Hemingway’s wife by presenting her, from the bullring, with the ear of a bull he killed.

Above: Statue of Cayetano Ordóñez (1904 – 1961), Ronda, Spain

Outside of Pamplona, the fishing trip to the Irati River (near Burgette in Navarre) was marred by polluted water.

Above: Irati River

Hemingway had intended to write a nonfiction book about bullfighting, but then decided that the week’s experiences had presented him with enough material for a novel.

A few days after the fiesta ended, on his birthday (21 July), he began writing what would eventually become The Sun Also Rises.

By 17 August, with 14 chapters written and a working title of Fiesta chosen, Hemingway returned to Paris.

He finished the draft on 21 September 1925, writing a foreword the following weekend and changing the title to The Lost Generation.

A few months later, in December 1925, Hemingway and his wife spent the winter in Schruns, Austria, where he began revising the manuscript extensively. 

Above: Schruns, Austria

Pauline Pfeiffer (1895 – 1951) joined them in January, and — against Hadley’s advice — urged him to sign a contract with Scribner’s.

Hemingway left Austria for a quick trip to New York to meet with the publishers, and on his return, during a stop in Paris, began an affair with Pauline.

Above: Ernest and Pauline Hemingway

He returned to Schruns to finish the revisions in March. 

In June, he was in Pamplona with both Richardson and Pfeiffer.

On their return to Paris, Richardson asked for a separation, and left for the south of France. 

In August, alone in Paris, Hemingway completed the proofs, dedicating the novel to his wife and son.

After the publication of the book in October, Hadley asked for a divorce.

Hemingway subsequently gave her the book’s royalties.

Hemingway’s debut novel, The Sun Also Rises, was published in 1926.

The Sun Also Rises is a 1926 novel by Hemingway, his first, that portrays American and British expatriates who travel from Paris to the Festival of San Fermin in Pamplona to watch the running of the bulls and the bullfights.

An early and enduring modernist novel, it received mixed reviews upon publication.

However, Hemingway biographer Jeffrey Meyers writes that it is now “recognized as Hemingway’s greatest work“, and Hemingway scholar Linda Wagner-Martin calls it his most important novel.

The novel is a roman à clef:

The characters are based on real people in Hemingway’s circle, and the action is based on real events, particularly Hemingway’s life in Paris in the 1920s and a trip to Spain in 1925 for the Pamplona festival and fishing in the Pyrenees.

Hemingway presents his notion that the “Lost Generation“— considered to have been decadent, dissolute, and irretrievably damaged by World War I — was in fact resilient and strong.

Hemingway investigates the themes of love and death, the revivifying power of nature, and the concept of masculinity.

His spare writing style, combined with his restrained use of description to convey characterizations and action, demonstrates his “iceberg theory” of writing.

On the surface, the novel is a love story between the protagonist Jake Barnes — a man whose war wound has made him unable to have sex — and the promiscuous divorcée Lady Brett Ashley.

The characters form a group, sharing similar norms, and each greatly affected by the war.

Hemingway captures the angst of the age and transcends the love story of Brett and Jake, although they are representative of the period:

Brett is starved for reassurance and love.

Jake is sexually maimed.

His wound symbolizes the disability of the age, the disillusion, and the frustrations felt by an entire generation.

Hemingway thought he lost touch with American values while living in Paris, but his biographer Michael Reynolds claims the opposite, seeing evidence of the author’s midwestern American values in the novel.

Hemingway admired hard work.

He portrayed the matadors and the prostitutes, who work for a living, in a positive manner, but Brett, who prostitutes herself, is emblematic of “the rotten crowd” living on inherited money.

It is Jake, the working journalist, who pays the bills again and again when those who can pay do not.

Hemingway shows, through Jake‘s actions, his disapproval of the people who did not pay up.

Reynolds says that Hemingway shows the tragedy, not so much of the decadence of the Montparnasse crowd, but of the decline in American values of the period.

As such, the author created an American hero who is impotent and powerless.

Jake becomes the moral center of the story.

He never considers himself part of the expatriate crowd because he is a working man.

To Jake a working man is genuine and authentic, and those who do not work for a living spend their lives posing.

Jake is an expatriate American journalist living in Paris, while Brett is a twice-divorced Englishwoman with bobbed hair and numerous love affairs, and embodies the new sexual freedom of the 1920s.

Brett‘s affair with Jake‘s college friend Robert Cohn causes Jake to be upset and break off his friendship with Robert.

Her seduction of the 19-year-old matador Romero causes Jake to lose his good reputation among the Spaniards in Pamplona.

Above: Plaza Castillo, Pamplona, Spain

Book One is set in the café society of young American expatriates in Paris.

In the opening scenes, Jake plays tennis with Robert, picks up a prostitute (Georgette), and runs into Brett and Count Mippipopolous in a nightclub.

Later, Brett tells Jake she loves him, but they both know that they have no chance at a stable relationship.

In Book Two, Jake is joined by Bill Gorton, recently arrived from New York, and Brett‘s fiancé Mike Campbell, who arrives from Scotland.

Jake and Bill travel south and meet Robert at Bayonne for a fishing trip in the hills northeast of Pamplona.

Above: Bayonne, France

Instead of fishing, Robert stays in Pamplona to wait for the overdue Brett and Mike.

Robert had an affair with Brett a few weeks earlier and still feels possessive of her despite her engagement to Mike.

After Jake and Bill enjoy five days of fishing the streams near Burguete, they rejoin the group in Pamplona.

Above: Burguete, Spain

All begin to drink heavily.

Robert is resented by the others, who taunt him with antisemitic remarks.

During the Fiesta the characters drink, eat, watch the running of the bulls, attend bullfights, and bicker with each other.

Above: Running of the Bulls, Pamplona

Jake introduces Brett to the 19-year-old matador Romero at the Hotel Montoya.

Above: The Hotel Montoya

She is smitten with him and seduces him.

The jealous tension among the men builds — Jake, Mike, Robert, and Romero each want Brett.

Robert, who had been a champion boxer in college, has a fistfight with Jake and Mike, and another with Romero, whom he beats up.

Despite his injuries, Romero continues to perform brilliantly in the bullring.

In The Sun Also Rises, Hemingway contrasts Paris with Pamplona, and the frenzy of the fiesta with the tranquillity of the Spanish countryside.

Spain was Hemingway’s favorite European country.

He considered it a healthy place, and the only country “that hasn’t been shot to pieces“.

Above: Flag of Spain

He was profoundly affected by the spectacle of bullfighting, writing:

It isn’t just brutal like they always told us.

It’s a great tragedy — and the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen and takes more guts and skill and guts again than anything possibly could.

It’s just like having a ringside seat at the war with nothing going to happen to you.

He demonstrated what he considered the purity in the culture of bullfighting — called afición — and presented it as an authentic way of life, contrasted against the inauthenticity of the Parisian bohemians.

To be accepted as an aficionado was rare for a non-Spaniard.

Jake goes through a difficult process to gain acceptance by the “fellowship of afición.

The Hemingway scholar Allen Josephs thinks the novel is centered on the corrida (the bullfighting), and how each character reacts to it.

Brett seduces the young matador.

Cohn fails to understand and expects to be bored.

Jake understands fully because only he moves between the world of the inauthentic expatriates and the authentic Spaniards.

The hotel keeper Montoya is the keeper of the faith.

Romero is the artist in the ring — innocent and perfect, the one who bravely faces death.

The corrida is presented as an idealized drama in which the matador faces death, creating a moment of existentialism or nada (nothingness), broken when he vanquishes death by killing the bull.

Hemingway presents matadors as heroic characters dancing in a bullring.

He considered the bullring as war with precise rules, in contrast to the messiness of the real war that he, and by extension Jake, experienced.

Critic Kenneth Kinnamon notes that young Romero is the novel’s only honourable character.

Hemingway named Romero after Pedro Romero, an 18th-century bullfighter who killed thousands of bulls in the most difficult manner:

Having the bull impale itself on his sword as he stood perfectly still.

Reynolds says Romero, who symbolizes the classically pure matador, is the “one idealized figure in the novel“.

Josephs says that when Hemingway changed Romero‘s name from Guerrita and imbued him with the characteristics of the historical Romero, he also changed the scene in which Romero kills a bull to one of recibiendo (receiving the bull) in homage to the historical namesake.

Book Three shows the characters in the aftermath of the Fiesta.

Sober again, they leave Pamplona.

Bill returns to Paris, Mike stays in Bayonne, and Jake goes to San Sebastián on the northern coast of Spain.

Above: Images of San Sebastián, Spain

As Jake is about to return to Paris, he receives a telegram from Brett asking for help.

She had gone to Madrid with Romero.

He finds her there in a cheap hotel, without money, and without Romero.

She announces she has decided to go back to Mike.

The novel ends with Jake and Brett in a taxi speaking of the things that might have been.

Above: Madrid, Spain

In Spain in mid-1929, Hemingway researched his next work, Death in the Afternoon.

He wanted to write a comprehensive treatise on bullfighting, explaining the toreros and corridas complete with glossaries and appendices, because he believed bullfighting was “of great tragic interest, being literally of life and death“.

Death in the Afternoon is a non-fiction book written by Hemingway about the ceremony and traditions of Spanish bullfighting.

The book provides a look at the history and the Spanish traditions of bullfighting.

It also contains a deeper contemplation on the nature of fear and courage.

While essentially a guide book, there are three main sections:

  • Hemingway’s work
  • pictures
  • a glossary of terms.

Hemingway became a bullfighting aficionado after seeing the Pamplona fiesta in the 1920s, which he wrote about in The Sun Also Rises

In Death in the Afternoon, Hemingway explores the metaphysics of bullfighting — the ritualized, almost religious practice — that he considered analogous to the writer’s search for meaning and the essence of life.

In bullfighting, he found the elemental nature of life and death. 

Marianne Wiggins has written of Death in the Afternoon:

Read it for the writing, for the way it’s told.

He’ll make you like bullfighting.

You read enough and long enough, he’ll make you love it, he’s relentless“.

Above: Marianne Wiggins

In his writings on Spain, Hemingway was influenced by the Spanish master Pio Baroja.

When Hemingway won the Nobel Prize, he traveled to see Baroja, then on his death bed, specifically to tell him he thought Baroja deserved the prize more than he.

Above: Pio Baroja (1872 – 1956)

Pauline and Ernest divorced after he returned from the Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939), which he covered as a journalist and which was the basis for his novel For Whom the Bell Tolls (1940). 

Martha Gellhorn became his third wife in 1940.

Above: Martha Gellhorn (1908 – 1998)

He and Gellhorn separated after he met Mary Welsh in London during World War II.

Above: Mary Welsh (1908 – 1986)

Hemingway was present with Allied troops as a journalist at the Normandy landings and the liberation of Paris.

Above: Omaha Beach, Normandy, France, 6 June 1944

Above: The liberation of Paris, 26 August 1944

He maintained permanent residences in Key West, Florida (in the 1930s) and in Cuba (in the 1940s and 1950s).

Above: Ernest Hemingway House, Key West, Florida

He almost died in 1954 after two plane crashes on successive days, with injuries leaving him in pain and ill health for much of the rest of his life.

In 1959, he bought a house in Ketchum, Idaho, where, in mid-1961, he committed suicide.

Above: Ernest Hemingway House, Ketchum, Idaho

The Dangerous Summer is a nonfiction book by Ernest Hemingway published posthumously in 1985 and written in 1959 and 1960.

The book describes the rivalry between bullfighters Luis Miguel Dominguin and his brother-in-law, Antonio Ordóñez, during the “dangerous summer” of 1959.

Above: Luis Miguel Dominguin (1926 – 1996)

Above: Statue of Antonio Ordóñez (1932 – 1998), Plaza de Toros, Ronda

It has been cited as Hemingway’s last book.

The Dangerous Summer is an edited version of a 75,000-word manuscript Hemingway wrote between October 1959 and May 1960 as an assignment from Life magazine.

Hemingway summoned his close friend Will Lang Jr. to come to Spain to deliver the story to Life.

Popular author James Michener (Tales of the South PacificHawaiiCentennialThe SourcePoland) wrote the 33-page introduction which includes Michener’s personal knowledge of bullfights and famous matadors, a comprehensive glossary of terms related to each stage of a bullfight, and unvarnished personal anecdotes of Hemingway.

Above: James Michener (1907 – 1997)

The book charts the rise of Antonio Ordóñez (the son of Cayetano Ordóñez, the bullfighter whose technique and ring exploits Hemingway fictionalized in his novel, The Sun Also Rises) during a season of bullfights during 1959.

During a fight on 13 May 1959, in Aranjuez, Ordóñez is badly gored, but remains in the ring and kills the bull, a performance rewarded by trophies of both the bull’s ears, its tail, and a hoof.

Above: Aranjuez, Spain

By contrast, Luis Miguel Dominguín is already famous as a bullfighter and returns to the ring after several years of retirement.

Less naturally gifted than Ordóñez, his pride and self-confidence draw him into an intense rivalry with the newcomer, and the two meet in the ring several times during the season. 

Starting the season supremely confident, Dominguín is slowly humbled by this competition.

While Ordóñez displays breathtaking skill and artistry in his fights, performing highly dangerous, classical passés, Dominguín often resorts to what Hemingway describes as “tricks“, moves that look impressive to the crowd but that are actually much safer.

Nevertheless, Dominguín is gored badly at a fight in Valencia, and Ordóñez is gored shortly afterwards.

Above: Images of Valencia, Spain

Less than a month later, the two bullfighters meet in the ring again for what Hemingway described as “one of the greatest bullfights I have ever seen“, “an almost perfect bullfight unmarred by any tricks.” 

From the six bulls which they fight, the pair win ten ears, four tails and two hooves as trophies, an extraordinary feat.

Their final meeting takes place in Bilbao, with Dominguín receiving a near-fatal goring and Ordóñez demonstrating absolute mastery by performing the recibiendo kill, one of the oldest and most dangerous moves.

Above: Bilbao, Spain

Ordóñez’s recibiendo requires three attempts, displaying the fighter’s artistry and bravery that Hemingway likens to that of legendary bullfighter Pedro Romero.

Above: Pedro Romero (1754 – 1839)

Thus endeth the digressive distractions.

The bullring has a chapel where a matador can pray before the corrida, and where a priest can be found in case a sacrament is needed.

The most relevant sacrament, now called “the Anointing of the Sick“, was formerly known as “Extreme Unction” or the “Last Rites“.

Above: Chapel, Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, Madrid

The media often reports the more horrific of bullfighting injuries, such as the September 2011 goring of matador Juan José Padilla’s head by a bull in Zaragoza, resulting in the loss of his left eye, use of his right ear, and facial paralysis.

He returned to bullfighting five months later with an eyepatch, multiple titanium plates in his skull, and the nickname ‘The Pirate‘.

Above: Juan José Padilla

Until the early 20th century, the horses were unprotected and were commonly gored and killed, or left close to death (intestines destroyed, for example).

The horses used were old and worn-out, with little value.

Starting in the 20th century horses were protected by thick blankets.

Wounds, though not unknown, were less common and less serious.

Despite its slow decrease in popularity among younger generations, bullfighting remains a widespread cultural activity throughout Spain.

A 2016 poll reported that 58% of Spaniards aged 16 to 65 opposed bullfighting against 19% who supported it.

The support was lower among the younger population, with only 7% of respondents aged 16 to 24 supporting bullfighting, vs. 29% support within 55 to 65 age group.

According to the same poll, 67% of respondents felt “little to not at all” proud to live in a country where bullfighting was a cultural tradition (84% among 16 to 24 age group).

Between 2007 and 2014, the number of corridas held in Spain decreased by 60%. 

In 2007 there were 3,651 bullfighting and bull-related events in Spain but by 2018, the number of bullfights had decreased to 1,521 – a historic low.

A September 2019 Spanish government report showed that only 8% of the population had attended a bull-related event in 2018.

Of this percentage, 5.9% attended a bullfight while the remainder attended other bull-related events, such as the running of the bulls.

When asked to gauge their interest in bullfighting on a scale of 0 through 10, only 5.9% responded with 9–10.

A majority of 65% of responded with 0–2.

Among those aged 15–19, this figure was 72.1%, and for those aged 20–24, it reached 76.4%.

With a fall in attendance, the bullfighting sector has come under financial stress, as many local authorities have reduced subsidies because of public criticism.

When the COVID-19 pandemic hit Spain and the country entered into lockdown in March 2020, all bullfighting events were cancelled indefinitely.

In mid-May 2020, after more than 26,000 Spaniards had died from the virus, the bullfighting industry demanded that the government compensate them for their losses, estimated at €700 million.

This prompted outrage, and more than 100,000 people signed a petition launched by Anima Naturalis urging the government not to rescue “spectacles based on the abuse and mistreatment of animals” with taxpayer money at a time when people were struggling to survive and public finances were already heavily strained.

A 29–31 May 2020 YouGov survey commissioned by HuffPost showed that 52% of the 1,001 Spaniards questioned wanted to ban bullfighting, 35% were opposed, 10% did not know and 2% refused to answer.

A strong majority of 78% answered that corridas should no longer be partially subsidised by the government, with 12% favoring subsidies and 10% undecided.

When asked whether bullfighting was culture or mistreatment, 40% replied that it is mistreatment alone, 18% replied that it is culture alone and 37% replied that it is both.

Of the respondents, 53% had never attended a corrida.

In the late 19th and early 20th century, some Spanish regeneracionista (a kind of political movement to make Spain great again) intellectuals protested against what they called the policy of pan y toros (“bread and bulls“), an analogue of Roman panem et circenses (bread and circuses).

Such belief was part of the wider current of thought known as anti-flamenquismo, a campaign against the popularity of both bullfighting and flamenco music, which were believed to be “oriental” elements of Spanish culture that were responsible for Spain’s perceived culture gap compared to the rest of Europe.

Above: Flamenco, Córdoba, Spain

In Francoist Spain (1939 – 1975), bullfights received great governmental support, as they were considered a demonstration of greatness of the Spanish nation and received the name of fiesta nacional.

Bullfighting was therefore highly associated with the regime.

After Spain’s transition to democracy, popular support for bullfighting declined.

Above: Francisco Franco (1892 – 1975)

Opposition to bullfighting from Spain’s political parties is typically highest among those on the left. 

PSOE (Partido Socialista Obrero Español / the Spanish Socialist Workers’ Party), the main centre-left political party, has distanced itself from bullfighting but refuses to ban it.

While Spain’s largest left-wing political party Podemos (“we can“) has repeatedly called for referenda on the matter and has shown disapproval of the practise. 

PP (Partido Popular / People’s Party), the largest conservative party, strongly supports bullfighting and has requested large public subsidies for it.

The government of José Luis Rodriguez Zapatero was the first to oppose bullfighting, prohibiting children under 14 from attending events and imposing a six-year ban on live bullfights broadcast on state-run national television, although the latter measure was reversed after Zapatero’s party lost in the 2011 elections.

Above: José Luis Rodriguez Zapatero

Despite its long history in Barcelona, bullfighting was outlawed across the Catalonia region in 2010 following a campaign led by an animal-rights civic platform called “Prou!” (“Enough!” in Catalan).

Critics have argued that the ban was motivated by issues of Catalan separatism and identity politics. 

In October 2016, the Constitutional Court ruled that the regional Catalan Parliament did not have the authority to ban events that are legal in Spain.

Above: Flag of Catalonia

The Spanish Royal Family is divided on the issue.

Above: Coat of arms of the Spanish Monarchy

Former Queen Consort Sofía of Spain disapproves of bullfights.

Above: Queen Sofía of Spain

Former King Juan Carlos occasionally presided over bullfights from the royal box.

Above: King Juan Carlos I of Spain

Their daughter Princess Elena is well-known for her support of the practise and often attends bullfights.

Above: Princess Elena of Spain

Pro-bullfighting supporters include former Prime Minister Mariano Rajoy and his PP party, as well as most leaders of the opposition PSOE party, including former Prime Minister Felipe Gonzalez and the current Presidents of Andalusia (Juan Manuel Moreno), Extremadura (Guillermo Fernàndez Vara), and Castilla – La Mancha (Emiliano Garcia – Page).

Above: Mariano Rajoy

The question of public funding is particularly controversial in Spain, since widely disparaged claims have been made by supporters and opponents of bullfighting.

According to government figures, bullfighting in Spain generates €1.6 billion a year and 200,000 jobs, 57,000 of which are directly linked to the industry.

Furthermore, bullfighting is the cultural activity that generates the most tax revenue for the Spanish state (€45 million in VAT – value added taxes –  and over €12 million in social security).

According to a poll, 73% of Spaniards oppose public funding for bullfighting activities.

Above: Bullfighting in Spain by province

Critics often claim that bullfighting is financed with public money.

However, though bullfighting attracts 25 million spectators annually, it represents just 0.01% of state subsidies allocated to cultural activities, and less than 3% of the cultural budget of regional, provincial and local authorities.

The bulk of subsidies is paid by town halls in localities where there is a historical tradition and support for bullfighting and related events, which are often held free of charge to participants and spectators.

In 1991, the Canary Islands became the first Spanish Autonomous Community to ban bullfighting, when they legislated to ban spectacles that involve cruelty to animals, with the exception of cockfighting, which is traditional in some towns in the Islands. 

Bullfighting was never popular in the Canary Islands.

Some supporters of bullfighting and even Lorenzo Olarte Cullen, Canarian head of government at the time, have argued that the fighting bull is not a “domestic animal” and hence the law does not ban bullfighting.

The absence of spectacles since 1984 would be due to lack of demand.

In the rest of Spain, national laws against cruelty to animals have abolished most blood sports, but specifically exempt bullfighting.

Above: Flag of the Canary Islands

On 18 December 2009, the Parliament of Catalonia, one of Spain’s seventeen Autonomous Communities, approved by majority the preparation of a law to ban bullfighting in Catalonia, as a response to a popular initiative against bullfighting that gathered more than 180,000 signatures. 

On 28 July 2010, with the two main parties allowing their members a free vote, the ban was passed 68 to 55, with nine abstentions.

This meant Catalonia became the second Community of Spain (The first was the Canary Islands in 1991), and the first on the Mainland, to ban bullfighting.

The ban took effect on 1 January 2012, and affected only the one remaining functioning Catalan bullring, the Plaza de toros Monumental de Barcelona.

It did not affect the correbous, a traditional game of the Ebro area (south of Catalonia) where lighted flares are attached to a bull’s horns.

The correbous are seen mainly in the municipalities in the south of Tarragona, with the exceptions of a few other towns in other provinces of Catalonia.

A movement emerged to revoke the ban in the Spanish Congress, citing the value of bullfighting as “cultural heritage“.

The proposal was backed by the majority of parliamentarians in 2013.

In October 2016 the Spanish Constitutional Court ruled that the regional Catalan Parliament had no competence to ban any kind of spectacle that is legal in Spain.

The Spanish Parliament passed a law in 2013 stating that bullfighting is an ‘indisputable‘ part of Spain’s ‘cultural heritage‘.

This law was used by the Spanish Constitutional Court in 2016 to overturn the Catalan ban of 2012.

Above: Spanish Constitutional Court, Madrid, Spain

When the island of Mallorca adopted a law in 2017 that prohibited the killing of a bull during a fight, this law was also declared partially unconstitutional by the Spanish Constitutional Court in 2018, as the judges ruled that the death of the bull was part of the essence of a corrida.

Above: Flag of Mallorca

In Galicia, bullfighting has been banned in many cities by the local governments.

Bullfighting has never had an important following in the region.

Above: Flag of Galicia

The European Union does not subsidize bullfighting but it does subsidize cattle farming in general, which also benefits those who rear Spanish fighting bulls.

In 2015, 438 of 687 members of the European Parliament voted in favour of amending the 2016 EU budget to indicate that the:

Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) appropriations or any other appropriations from the budget should not be used for the financing of lethal bullfighting activities.

Above: Flag of the European Union

Most Portuguese bullfights are held in two phases:

The spectacle of the cavaleiro, and the pega.

In the cavaleiro, a horseman on a Portuguese Lusitano horse (specially trained for the fights) fights the bull from horseback.

The purpose of this fight is to stab three or four bandeiras (small javelins) into the back of the bull.

In the second stage, called the pega (“holding“), the forcados, a group of eight men, challenge the bull directly without any protection or weapon of defense.

The frontman provokes the bull into a charge to perform a pega de cara or pega de caras (face grab).

The frontman secures the animal’s head and is quickly aided by his fellows who surround and secure the animal until he is subdued. 

Forcados are dressed in a traditional costume of damask or velvet, with long knitted hats as worn by the campinos (bull headers) from Ribatejo.

The bull is not killed in the ring and, at the end of the corrida, leading oxen are let into the arena, and two campinos on foot herd the bull among them back to its pen.

The bull is usually killed out of sight of the audience by a professional butcher.

Some bulls, after an exceptional performance, are healed, released to pasture and used for breeding.

In the Portuguese Azores islands, there is a form of bullfighting called tourada à corda, in which a bull is led on a rope along a street, while players taunt and dodge the bull, who is not killed during or after the fight, but returned to pasture and used in later events.

Above: Flag of the Azores

Queen Maria II of Portugal prohibited bullfighting in 1836 with the argument that it was unbefitting for a civilised nation.

The ban was lifted in 1921, but in 1928 a law was passed that forbade the killing of the bull during a fight.

Above: Maria II of Portugal (1819 – 1853)

In practice, bulls still frequently die after a fight from their injuries or by being slaughtered by a butcher.

In 2001, matador Pedrito de Portugal controversially killed a bull at the end of a fight after spectators encouraged him to do so by chanting:

Kill the bull! Kill the bull!

The crowds gave Pedrito a standing ovation, hoisted him on their shoulders and paraded him through the streets.

Hours later the police arrested him and charged him with a fine, but they released him after crowds of angry fans surrounded the police station.

A long court case ensued, finally resulting in Pedrito’s conviction in 2007 with a fine of €100,000.

Above: Pedrito de Portugal

In 2002, the Portuguese government gave Barrancos, a village near the Spanish border where bullfighting fans stubbornly persisted in encouraging the killing of bulls during fights, a dispensation from the 1928 ban.

Above: Barrancos, Portugal

Various attempts have been made to ban bullfighting in Portugal, both nationally (in 2012 and 2018) and locally, but so far unsuccessfully.

In July 2018, animalist party PAN (Pessoas-Animais-Natureza) (People – Animals – Nature) presented a proposal at the Portuguese Parliament to abolish all types of bullfighting in the country.

Left-wing party Left Bloc voted in favour of the proposal, but criticized its lack of solutions to the foreseen consequences of the abolition.

The proposal was however categorically rejected by all other parties, that cited freedom of choice and respect for tradition as arguments against it.

Above: Bloco de Esquerda / Left Bloc ‘s logo

Since the 19th century, Spanish-style corridas have been increasingly popular in southern France where they enjoy legal protection in areas where there is an uninterrupted tradition of such bull fights, particularly during holidays such as Whitsun or Easter.

Among France’s most important venues for bullfighting are the ancient Roman arenas of Nîmes and Arles, although there are bull rings across the South from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic coasts.

Bullfights of this kind follow the Spanish tradition and even Spanish words are used for all bullfighting related terms.

Minor cosmetic differences exist such as music.

This is not to be confused with the bloodless bullfights referred to below which are indigenous to France.

A more indigenous genre of bullfighting is widely common in the Provence and Languedoc areas, and is known alternately as “course libre” or “course camarguaise“.

This is a bloodless spectacle (for the bulls) in which the objective is to snatch a rosette from the head of a young bull.

The participants, or raseteurs, begin training in their early teens against young bulls from the Camarque region of Provence before graduating to regular contests held principally in Arles and Nîmes but also in other Provençal and Languedoc towns and villages.

Before the course, an abrivado — a “running” of the bulls in the streets — takes place, in which young men compete to outrun the charging bulls.

The course itself takes place in a small (often portable) arena erected in a town square.

For a period of about 15–20 minutes, the raseteurs compete to snatch rosettes (cocarde) tied between the bulls’ horns.

They do not take the rosette with their bare hands, but with a claw-shaped metal instrument called a raset or crochet (hook) in their hands, hence their name.

Afterward, the bulls are herded back to their pen by gardians (Camarguais cowboys) in a bandido, amidst a great deal of ceremony.

The stars of these spectacles are the bulls.

Another type of French ‘bullfighting‘ is the “course landaise“, in which cows are used instead of bulls.

This is a competition between teams named cuadrillas, which belong to certain breeding estates.

A cuadrilla is made up of a teneur de corde, an entraîneur, a sauteur, and six écarteurs.

The cows are brought to the arena in crates and then taken out in order.

The teneur de corde controls the dangling rope attached to the cow’s horns and the entraîneur positions the cow to face and attack the player.

The écarteurs will try, at the last possible moment, to dodge around the cow and the sauteur will leap over it.

Each team aims to complete a set of at least one hundred dodges and eight leaps.

This is the main scheme of the “classic” form, the course landaise formelle.

However, different rules may be applied in some competitions.

For example, competitions for Coupe Jeannot Lafittau are arranged with cows without ropes.

At one point, it resulted in so many fatalities that the French government tried to ban it but had to back down in the face of local opposition.

The bulls themselves are generally fairly small, much less imposing than the adult bulls employed in the corrida.

Nonetheless, the bulls remain dangerous due to their mobility and vertically formed horns.

Participants and spectators share the risk.

It is not unknown for angry bulls to smash their way through barriers and charge the surrounding crowd of spectators.

The course landaise is not seen as a dangerous sport by many, but écarteur Jean-Pierre Rachou died in 2003 when a bull’s horn tore his femoral artery.

Above: Jean-Pierre Rachou (1958 – 2001)

A February 2018 study commissioned by the 30 millions d’amis foundation and conducted by the Institut français d’opinion publique (IFOP) found that 74% of the French wanted to prohibit bullfighting in France, with 26% opposed.

In September 2007, these percentages were still 50-50, with those favouring a ban growing to 66% in August 2010 and those opposed shrinking to 34%.

The survey found a correlation between age and opinion.

Younger survey participants were more likely to support a ban.

In 1951, bullfighting in France was legalised by §7 of Article 521-1 of the French Penal Code in areas where there was an ‘unbroken local tradition‘.

This exemption applies to Nîmes, Arles, Alès, Bayonne, Carcassonne and Fréjus, amongst others.

In 2011, the French Ministry of Culture added corrida to the list of ‘intangible heritage‘ of France, but after much controversy silently removed it from its website again.

Animal rights activists launched a lawsuit to make sure it was completely removed from the heritage list and thus not given extra legal protection.

The Administrative Appeals Court of Paris ruled in their favour in June 2015. 

In a separate case, the Constitutional Council ruled on 21 September 2012 that bullfighting did not violate the French Constitution.

Bullfighting had some popularity in the Philippines during Spanish rule (1565 – 1898), though foreign commentators derided the quality of local bulls and toreros.

Above: Flag of the Philippines

Bullfighting was noted in the Philippines as early as 1619, when it was among the festivities in celebration of Pope Urban III’s (r. 1185 – 1187) authorisation of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.

Above: Depiction of Urban II

Following the Spanish–American War, the Americans suppressed the custom in the Philippines under the tenure of Governor General Leonard Wood (1860 – 1927).

Above: Leonard Wood (1860 – 1927)

It was replaced with a now-popular Filipino sport, basketball.

Chile banned bullfighting shortly after gaining independence in 1818, but the Chilean rodeo (which involves horse riders in an oval arena blocking a female cow against the wall without killing it) is still legal and has even been declared a national sport.

Above: Flag of Chile

Bullfighting was introduced in Argentina by Spain, but after Argentina’s independence, the event drastically diminished in popularity and was abolished in 1899 under Law #2786.

Above: Flag of Argentina

Bullfighting was also introduced in Uruguay in 1776 by Spain and abolished by Uruguayan law in February 1912.

Thus the Plaza de toros Real de San Carlos, built in 1910, only operated for two years.

Above: Flag of Uruguay

Ecuador staged bullfights to the death for over three centuries as a Spanish colony.

On 12 December 2010, Ecuador’s President Rafael Correa announced that in an upcoming referendum, the country would be asked whether to ban bullfighting.

In the referendum, held in May 2011, Ecuadorians agreed on banning the final killing of the bull that happens in a corrida.

This means the bull is no longer killed before the public, and is instead taken back inside the barn to be killed at the end of the event.

The other parts of the corrida are still performed the same way as before in the cities that celebrate it.

This part of the referendum is applied on a regional level, meaning that in regions where the population voted against the ban, which are the same regions where bullfighting is celebrated the most, killing the animal publicly in the bullfighting plaza is still performed.

The main bullfighting celebration of the country, the Fiesta Brava in Quito was still allowed to take place in December 2011 after the referendum under these new rules.

Above: Flag of Ecuador

In Bolivia, bulls are not killed nor injured with any sticks.

The goal of Bolivian toreros is to provoke the bull with taunts without getting harmed themselves.

Above: Flag of Bolivia

Bullfighting with killing bulls in the ring is legal in Colombia. 

In 2013, Gustavo Petro, then mayor of the Colombian capital city of Bogotá, had de facto prohibited bullfighting by refusing to lease out bullrings to bullfighting organisers.

But the Constitutional Court of Colombia ruled that this violated the right to expression of the bullfighters, and ordered the bullrings to be reopened.

The first bullfight in Bogotá in four years happened on 22 January 2017 amid clashes between anti-taurino protesters and police.

Above: Flag of Colombia

In El Seibo Province of the Dominican Republic bullfights are not about killing or harming the animal, but taunting and evading it until it is tired.

Above: Flag of the Dominican Republic

Bullfighting was present in Cuba during its colonial period (1514 – 1898), but was abolished by the US military under the pressure of civic associations in 1899, right after the Spanish-American War of 1898.

The prohibition was maintained after Cuba gained independence in 1902.

Above: Flag of Cuba

Law 308 on the Protection of Animals was approved by the National Assembly of Panama on 15 March 2012.

Article 7 of the law states:

‘Dog fights, animal races, bullfights – whether of the Spanish or Portuguese style – the breeding, entry, permanence and operation in the national territory of all kinds of circus or circus show that uses trained animals of any species, are prohibited.’

Horse racing and cockfighting were exempt from the ban.

Above: Flag of Panama

Nicaragua prohibited bullfighting under a new Animal Welfare Law in December 2010, with 74 votes in favour and 5 votes against in Parliament.

Above: Flag of Nicaragua

In Honduras, under Article 11 of ‘Decree #115-2015 ─ Animal Protection and Welfare Act‘ that went into effect in 2016, dog and cat fights and duck races are prohibited, while ‘bullfighting shows and cockfights are part of the National Folklore and as such allowed‘.

However, ‘in bullfighting shows, the use of spears, swords, fire or other objects that cause pain to the animal is prohibited.’

Above: Flag of Honduras

In Costa Rica the law prohibits the killing of bulls and other animals in public and private shows.

However, there are still bullfights, called “Toros a la Tica“, that are televised from Palmares and Zapote at the end and beginning of the year.

Volunteer amateur bullfighters (improvisados) confront a bull in a ring and try to provoke him into charging and then run away.

In a December 2016 survey, 46.4% of respondents wanted to outlaw bullfights while 50.1% thought they should continue.

The bullfights do not include spears or any other device to harm the bull and resemble the running of the bulls in Pamplona, the difference being that the Costa Rican event takes place in an arena rather than in the streets, as in Pamplona.

Above: Flag of Costa Rica

Bullfighting was also banned for a period in Mexico in 1890.

Consequently some Spanish bullfighters moved to the United States to transfer their skills to the American rodeos.

Bullfighting has been banned in four Mexican states: 

  • Sonora in 2013
  • Guerrero in 2014
  • Coahuila in 2015
  • Quintana Roo in 2019.

It was banned “indefinitely” in Mexico City in 2022.

Above: Flag of Mexico

In Canada, Portuguese-style bullfighting was introduced in 1989 by Portuguese immigrants in the town of Listowel in southern Ontario.

Despite objections and concerns from local authorities and a humane society, the practice was allowed as the bulls were not killed or injured in this version.

In the nearby city of Brampton, Portuguese immigrants from the Azores practice “tourada a corda” (bullfight by rope).

Above: Flag of Canada

Jallikattu is a traditional spectacle in Tamil Nadu, India, as a part of Pongul (harvest festival) celebrations on Mattu Pongul Day (3rd day of the four day festival).

A breed of bos indicus (humped) bulls, called “Jellicut” are used.

During a jallikattu, a bull is released into a group of people.

Participants attempt to grab the bull’s hump and hold onto it for a determined distance, length of time, or with the goal of taking a pack of money tied to the bull’s horns.

The goal of the activity is more similar to bull riding (staying on a bull).

The practice was banned in 2014 by India’s Supreme Court over concerns that bulls are sometimes mistreated prior to jallikattu events.

Animal welfare investigations into the practice revealed that some bulls are poked with sticks and scythes, some have their tails twisted, some are force-fed alcohol to disorient them, and in some cases chili powder and other irritants are applied to bulls’ eyes and genitals to agitate the animals. 

The 2014 ban was suspended and reinstated several times over the years.

In January 2017, the Supreme Court upheld their previous ban and various protests arose in response.

Due to these protests, on 21 January 2017, the Governor of Tamil Nadu issued a new ordinance that authorized the continuation of jallikattu events.

On 23 January 2017 the Tamil Nadu legislature passed a bi-partisan bill, with the accession of the Prime Minister, exempting jallikattu from the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act (1960).

As of January 2017, jallikattu is legal in Tamil Nadu, but another organization may challenge the mechanism by which it was legalized, as the Animal Welfare Board of India claims that the Tamil Nadu Legislative Assembly does not have the power to override Indian federal law, meaning that the state law could possibly once again be nullified and jallikattu banned.

Above: Emblem of Tamil Nadu

American freestyle bullfighting is a style of bullfighting developed in American rodeo.

The style was developed by the rodeo clowns who protect bull riders from being trampled or gored by a loose bull.

Freestyle bullfighting is a 70-second competition in which the bullfighter (rodeo clown) avoids the bull by means of dodging, jumping, and use of a barrel.

The bullfighter is then scored points based on his performance.

In Central Valley, California, the historically Portuguese community has developed a form of bullfight in which the bull is taunted by a matador, but the lances are tipped with fabric hook and loop (e.g. velcro) and they are aimed at hook-and-loop covered pads secured to the bull’s shoulder.

Fights occur from May through October around traditional Portuguese holidays.

While California outlawed bullfighting in 1957, this type of bloodless bullfighting is still allowed if carried out during religious festivals or celebrations.

Bullfighting was outlawed in California in 1957, but the law was amended in response to protests from the Portuguese community in Gustine.

Lawmakers determined that a form of “bloodless” bullfighting would be allowed to continue, in affiliation with certain Christian holidays.

Though the bull is not killed as with traditional bullfighting, it is still intentionally irritated and provoked and its horns are shaved down to prevent injury to people and other animals present in the ring, but serious injuries still can and do occur and spectators are also at risk.

Above: Flag of California

The Humane Society of the United States has expressed opposition to bullfighting in all its forms since at least 1981.

Puerto Rico banned bullfighting and the breeding of bulls for fights by Law #176 of 25 July 1998.

Above: Flag of Puerto Rico

In Tanzania, bullfighting was introduced by the Portuguese to Zanzibar and to Pemba Island, where it is known as mchezo wa ngombe.

Similar to the Portuguese Azorean tourada a corda, the bull is restrained by a rope, and generally neither bull nor player is harmed, and the bull is not killed at the end of the fight.

Above: Flag of Tanzania

Many supporters of bullfighting regard it as a deeply ingrained, integral part of their national cultures:

In Spain, bullfighting is nicknamed la fiesta nacional (“national fiesta“).

The aesthetic of bullfighting is based on the interaction of the man and the bull.

Rather than a competitive sport, the bullfight is more of a ritual of ancient origin, which is judged by aficionados based on artistic impression and command.

American author Ernest Hemingway wrote of it in his 1932 non-fiction book Death in the Afternoon:

Bullfighting is the only art in which the artist is in danger of death and in which the degree of brilliance in the performance is left to the fighter’s honour.”

Above: Ernest Hemingway

Bullfighting is seen by some as a symbol of Spanish national culture.

The bullfight is regarded as a demonstration of style, technique, and courage by its participants, and as a demonstration of cruelty and cowardice by its critics.

While there is usually no doubt about the outcome, the bull is not viewed by bullfighting supporters as a sacrificial victim — it is instead seen by the audience as a worthy adversary, deserving of respect in its own right.

Those who oppose bullfighting maintain that the practice is a sadistic tradition of torturing and killing a bull amidst pomp and pageantry.

Supporters of bullfights, called “aficionados“, claim to respect the bulls, that the bulls live better than other cattle, and that bullfighting is a grand tradition, a form of art important to their culture.

In Spain and Latin America, opposition to bullfighting is referred to as the antitaurino movement.

In a 2012 poll, 70% of Mexican respondents wanted bullfighting to be prohibited.

Above: A dying bull in a bullfight

Bullfighting is thought to have been practised since prehistoric times throughout the entire Mediterranean coast, but it survives only in Iberia and in part of France. 

During the Arab rule of Iberia (711 – 1492), the ruling class tried to ban bullfighting, considering it a pagan celebration and heresy.

Above: Umayyad Hispania at its greatest extent in 719

In the 16th century, Pope Pius V banned bullfighting for its ties to paganism and for the danger that it posed to the participants.

Anyone who would sponsor, watch or participate in a bullfight was to be excommunicated by the Church.

Above: Pius V (né Antonio Ghislieri) (1504 – 1572)

Spanish and Portuguese bullfighters kept the tradition alive covertly.

Pius’s successor Pope Gregory XIII relaxed the Church’s position.

However, Pope Gregory advised bullfighters to not use the sport as means of honoring Jesus Christ or the saints, as was typical in Spain and Portugal.

Above: Gregory XIII ( Ugo Boncompagni)(1502 – 1585)

Bullfighting has been intertwined with religion and religious folklore in Spain at a popular level, particularly in the areas in which it has been most popular.

Bullfighting events are celebrated during festivities celebrating local patron saints, along with other activities, games and sports.

The bullfighting world is also inextricably linked to iconography related to religious devotion in Spain, with bullfighters seeking the protection of Mary and often becoming members of religious brotherhoods.

Above: Spanish bullfighters enter a chapel before a bullfight

Bullfighting is now banned in many countries.

People taking part in such activity would be liable for terms of imprisonment for animal cruelty.

Bloodless” variations, though, are often permitted and have attracted a following in California, Texas and France.

While it is not very popular in Texas, bloodless forms of bullfighting occur at rodeos in small Texas towns.

Above: Flag of Texas

In southern France, however, the traditional form of the corrida still exists and it is protected by French law.

However, in June 2015 the Paris Court of Appeals removed bullfighting / “la corrida” from France’s cultural heritage list.

Above: Flag of France

Several cities around the world (especially in Catalonia) have symbolically declared themselves to be Anti-Bullfighting Cities, including Barcelona in 2006.

Above: World laws on bullfighting – Dark blue: Nationwide ban on bullfighting / Light blue:  Nationwide ban on bullfighting, but some designated local traditions exempted / Purple:  Some subnational bans on bullfighting / Yellow: Bullfighting without killing bulls in the ring legal (‘bloodless‘)  / Red: Bullfighting with killing bulls in the ring legal (Spanish style) / Grey:  No data

RSPCA (Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) assistant director for public affairs David Bowles said:

The RSPCA is strongly opposed to bullfighting. It is an inhumane and outdated practice that continues to lose support, including from those living in the countries where this takes place such as Spain, Portugal and France.”

The bullfighting guide The Bulletpoint Bullfight warns that bullfighting is “not for the squeamish“, advising spectators to “be prepared for blood“.

The guide details prolonged and profuse bleeding caused by horse-mounted lancers, the charging by the bull of a blindfolded, armored horse who is “sometimes doped up, and unaware of the proximity of the bull“, the placing of barbed darts by banderilleros and the matador’s fatal sword thrust.

The guide stresses that these procedures are a normal part of bullfighting and that death is rarely instantaneous.

The guide further warns those attending bullfights to:

Be prepared to witness various failed attempts at killing the animal before it lies down.

Alexander Fiske – Harrison, who trained as a bullfighter to research for his book on the topic (and trained in biological sciences and moral philosophy before that) has pointed out that the bull lives three times longer than do cattle reared exclusively for meat, and lives wild during that period in meadows and forests which are funded by the premium the bullfight’s box office adds on to the price of their meat, should be taken into account when weighing concerns about both animal welfare and the environment.

He also speculated that the adrenalizing nature of the 30-minute spectacle may reduce the bull’s suffering even below that of the stress and anxiety of queueing in the abattoir.

Above: Alexander Fiske – Harrison

However, zoologist and animal rights activist Jordi Casamitjana argues that the bulls do experience a high degree of suffering:

All aspects of any bullfight, from the transport to the death, are in themselves causes of suffering.”

Above: Jordi Casamitjana

I find myself thinking of Walt Disney’s 1938 stand-alone animated short film Ferdinand the Bull:

The scene starts with many bulls, romping together and butting their heads.

However, Ferdinand is different.

All he wants to do all day is go under a shady cork tree and smell the flowers.

One day, his mother notices that he is not playing with the other bulls and asks him why.

He responds:

All I want to do is to sit and smell the flowers!

His mother is very understanding.

Ferdinand grows over the years, eventually getting to be the largest and strongest of the group.

The other bulls grow up wanting to accomplish one goal in life:

To be in the bullfights in Madrid, Spain.

But not Ferdinand.

One day, five strange-looking men show up to see the bulls.

When the bulls notice them, they fight as rough as possible, hoping to get picked.

Ferdinand doesn’t engage and continues to smell the flowers.

When he goes to sit, he doesn’t realize there is a bumblebee right underneath him.

The pain of the bee’s sting makes him go on a crazy rampage, knock the other bulls out, and eventually tear down a tree.

The five men cheer as they take Ferdinand to Madrid.

There is a lot of excitement when the day of the bullfight comes.

On posters, they call him Ferdinand the Fierce.

The event starts and out into the ring comes banderilleros, picadors and the matador who is being cheered on.

As the matador bows, a woman in the audience throws him a bouquet of flowers which land in his hand.

Finally, the moment comes where Ferdinand comes out and he wonders what is he doing there.

The banderilleros and picadors are afraid and hide, but the matador gets scared stiff because Ferdinand is so big and strong.

Ferdinand looks and sees the bouquet of flowers, walking over and scaring the matador away, but just starts smelling them.

The matador becomes very angry at Ferdinand for not charging at him.

But Ferdinand is not interested in fighting.

He is only interested in smelling the beautiful flowers.

Eventually, he is led out of the arena and taken back home where he continues to sit under the cork tree and smell the flowers.

Rodeo, a less violent cousin of bullfighting, is a competitive equestrian sport that arose out of the working practices of cattle herding in Spain and Mexico, expanding throughout the Americas and to other nations.

Originally based on the skills required of the working yaqueros and later, cowboys, in what today is the western United States, western Canada, and northern Mexico.

Today, it is a sporting event that involves horses and other livestock, designed to test the skill and speed of the cowboys and cowgirls.

The largest state-of-the-art rodeos are professional, commercial athletic contests held in climate-controlled stadiums, with broadcasting by various television networks.

Above: Bucking horse, Calgary Stampede, Alberta, Canada, 2002

Outside of the rodeo world itself, there is disagreement about exactly what rodeo is.

Professional competitors, for example, view rodeo as a sport and call themselves professional athletes while also using the title of cowboy.

Fans view rodeo as a spectator sport with animals, having aspects of pageantry and theater unlike other professional sport.

Non-westerners view the spectacle as a quaint but exciting remnant of the Wild West.

Animal rights activists view rodeo as a cruel Roman circus spectacle or an Americanized bullfight.

Above: Barrel racing, Calgary Stampede, 2007

Anthropologists studying the sport of rodeo and the culture surrounding it have commented that it is “a blend of both performance and contest“, and that rodeo is far more expressive in blending both these aspects than attempting to stand alone on one or the other.

Rodeo’s performance level permits pageantry and ritual which serve to “revitalize the spirit of the Old West” while its contest level poses a man-animal opposition that articulates the transformation of nature and “dramatizes and perpetuates the conflict between the wild and the tame.”

On its deepest level, rodeo is essentially a ritual addressing itself to the dilemma of man’s place in nature.”

Above: Team roping – here, the steer has been roped by the header, and the heeler is now attempting a throw, Brawley Round-up

Rodeo is a popular topic in country-western music, such as the 1991 Garth Brooks hit single “Rodeo“.

Rodeo has also been featured in numerous movies, television programs and in literature. 

Above: Garth Brooks

Rodeo is a ballet score written by Aaron Copland in 1942.

Above: Aaron Copland (1900 – 1990)

Country singer Chris Ledoux competed in bareback riding and wrote many of his songs based on his experiences.

Above: Chris LeDoux (1948 – 2005)

Rodeo has also been featured in a significant number of films, and some focus specifically on the sport, including: 

  • 8 Seconds

  • Cowboy Up

  • The Longest Ride

  • The Rider

  • The Cowboy Way

American-style professional rodeos generally comprise the following events: 

  • tie-down roping
  • team roping
  • steer wrestling
  • saddle bronc riding  
  • bareback bronc riding  
  • bull riding
  • barrel racing

The events are divided into two basic categories:

  • the rough stock events
  • the timed events.

Depending on sanctioning organization and region, other events may also be a part of some rodeos, such as: 

  • breakaway roping
  • goat tying
  • pole bending.

Above: Saddle bronc riding, Cody Rodeo, Wyoming

According to Encyclopedia Britannica, the “world’s first public cowboy contest” was held on 4 July 1883, in Pecos, Texas, between cattle driver Trav Windham and roper Morg Livingston.

Above: Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show

American rodeo, particularly popular today within the Canadian province of Alberta and throughout the western United States, is the official state sport of Wyoming, South Dakota, and Texas.

The iconic silhouette image of a “bucking horse and rider” is a federal and state-registered trademark of the State of Wyoming.

Above: Flag of Wyoming

The Legislative Assembly of Alberta has considered making American rodeo the official sport of that province.

However, enabling legislation has yet to be passed.

Above: Flag of Alberta

The first rodeo in Canada was held in 1902 in Raymond, Alberta, when Raymond Knight funded and promoted a rodeo contest for bronc riders and steer ropers called the Raymond Stampede.

Knight also coined the rodeo term “stampede” and built rodeo’s first known shotgun-style bucking chute.

In 1903, Knight built Canada’s first rodeo arena and grandstand and became the first rodeo producer and rodeo stock contractor.

Above: Ray Knight (1872 – 1947)

In 1912, Guy Weadick and several investors put up $100,000 to create what today is the Calgary Stampede.

The Stampede also incorporated mythical and historical elements, including native Canadians in full regalia, chuckwagon races, the Mounted Police, and marching bands.

From its beginning, the event has been held the 2nd week in July.

Since 1938, attendees were urged to dress for the occasion in western hats to add to the event’s flavour.

By 2003, it was estimated that 65 professional rodeos involving 700 members of the Canadian Professional Rodeo Association (CPRA) took place in Western Canada, along with professionals from the United States.

Many Canadian contestants were part-timers who did not earn a significant living from rodeo.

Canadians made several significant contributions to the sport of rodeo.

In 1916, at the Bascom Ranch in Welling, Alberta, John W. Bascom and his sons Raymond, Mel, and Earl designed and built rodeo’s first side-delivery bucking chute for the ranch rodeos they were producing.

In 1919, Earl and John made rodeo’s first reverse-opening side-delivery bucking chute at the Bascom Ranch in Lethbridge, Alberta.

This Bascom-style bucking chute is now rodeo’s standard design. 

Earl Bascom also continued his innovative contributions to the sport of rodeo by designing and making rodeo’s first hornless bronc saddle in 1922, rodeo’s first one-hand bareback rigging in 1924, and the first high-cut rodeo chaps in 1928.

Earl and his brother Weldon also produced rodeo’s first night rodeo held outdoors under electric lights in 1935.

Above: Earl Bascom (1906 – 1995)

The Canadian Pro Rodeo Hall of Fame is located in Ponoka, Alberta.

In the US, professional rodeos are governed and sanctioned by the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association (PRCA) and the Women’s Professional Rodeo Association (WPRA), while other associations govern assorted children’s, high school, collegiate, and other amateur or semi-professional rodeos.

Associations also exist for Native Americans and other minority groups.

The traditional season for competitive rodeo runs from spring through fall, while the modern professional rodeo circuit runs longer, and concludes with the PRCA National Finals Rodeo (NFR) in Las Vegas, Nevada, currently held every December.

Above: Steer wrestling, National Finals Rodeo, Las Vegas, Nevada, 2004

Rodeo has provoked opposition from animal rights and some animal welfare advocates, who argue that various competitions constitute animal cruelty.

The American rodeo industry has made progress in improving the welfare of rodeo animals, with specific requirements for veterinary care and other regulations that protect rodeo animals.

However, some local and state governments in North America have banned or restricted rodeos, certain rodeo events, or types of equipment.

Internationally, rodeo is banned in the United Kingdom and the Netherlands, with other European nations placing restrictions on certain practices.

Protests were first raised regarding rodeo animal cruelty in the 1870s.

Beginning in the 1930s, some states enacted laws curtailing rodeo activities and other events involving animals.

In the 1950s, the then Rodeo Cowboys Association (RCA, later the PRCA) worked with the American Humane Association (AHA) to establish regulations protecting the welfare of rodeo animals that were acceptable to both organizations.

The PRCA realized that public education regarding rodeo and the welfare of animals was needed to keep the sport alive.

Over the years, conditions for animals in rodeo and many other sporting events improved.

Today, the PRCA and other rodeo sanctioning organizations have stringent regulations to ensure rodeo animals’ welfare.

For example, these rules require, among other things, provisions for injured animals, a veterinarian’s presence at all rodeos (a similar requirement exists for other equine events), padded flank straps, horn protection for steers, and spurs with dulled, free-spinning rowels.

Rodeo competitors in general value and provide excellent care to the animals with which they work.

Animals must also be protected with fleece-lined flank straps for bucking stock and horn wraps for roping steers.

Laws governing rodeo vary widely.

In the American west, some states incorporate the regulations of the PRCA into their statutes as a standard by which to evaluate if animal cruelty has occurred.

On the other hand, some events and practices are restricted or banned in other states, including California, Rhode Island, and Ohio. 

St. Petersburg, Florida is the only locality in the United States with a complete ban on rodeo. 

Above: St. Petersburg, Florida

Canadian humane societies are careful in criticizing Canadian rodeo as the event has become so indigenous to Western Canada that criticism may jeopardize support for the organization’s other humane goals.

The Calgary Humane Society itself is wary of criticizing the famous Calgary Stampede.

As aforementioned, internationally rodeo itself is banned in the United Kingdom and the Netherlands.

Other European nations have placed restrictions on certain practices.

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

Above: Flag of the Netherlands

However, a number of humane and animal rights organizations have policy statements that oppose many rodeo practices and often the events themselves.

Some also claim that regulations vary from vague to ineffective and are frequently violated. 

Other groups assert that any regulation still allows rodeo animals to be subjected to gratuitous harm for the sake of entertainment, and therefore rodeos should be banned altogether.

In response to these concerns, a number of cities and states, mostly in the eastern half of the United States, have passed ordinances and laws governing rodeo. 

Above: Flag of the United States of America

Pittsburgh, for example, specifically prohibits electric prods or shocking devices, flank or bucking straps, wire tie-downs, and sharpened or fixed spurs or rowels.

Pittsburgh also requires humane officers be provided access to any and all areas where animals may go — specifically pens, chutes, and injury pens.

Above: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

The state of Rhode Island has banned tie-down roping and certain other practices.

Other locales have similar ordinances and laws.

Above: Flag of Rhode Island

There are three basic areas of concern to various groups.

The first set of concerns surround relatively common rodeo practices, such as the use of bucking straps, also known as flank straps, the use of metal or electric cattle prods, and tail-twisting.

The second set of concerns surround non-traditional rodeo events that operate outside the rules of sanctioning organizations.

These are usually amateur events such as: 

  • mutton busting
  • calf dressing 
  • wild cow milking
  • calf riding
  • chuck wagon races
  • other events designed primarily for publicity, half-time entertainment or crowd participation.

Finally, some groups consider some or all rodeo events themselves to be cruel.

Above: Mutton busting, Denver Rodeo, Colorado, 2007

Animal rights groups, such as PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals), SHARK (Showing Animals Respect and Kindness) and the Humane Society of the United States, generally take a position of opposition to all rodeos and rodeo events.

A more general position is taken by the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals), only opposing rodeo events that “involve cruel, painful, stressful and potentially harmful treatment of livestock, not only in performance but also in handling, transport and prodding to perform“.

The group singles out children’s rodeo events, such as goat tying, calf riding and sheep riding (“mutton busting”), “which do not promote humane care and respect for animals“.

The AHA (American Humane Association) does not appear to oppose rodeos per se, though they have a general position on events and contests involving animals, stating that “when animals are involved in entertainment, they must be treated humanely at all times“.

Above: Goat tying

Why must animals be entertaining?

Why can’t we simply let them live their lives being themselves?

Why must we insist that nature serve us?

 

The AHA also has strict requirements for the treatment of animals used for rodeo scenes in movies, starting with the rules of the PRCA and adding additional requirements consistent with the association’s other policies.

Unique among animal protection groups, the ASPCA specifically notes that practice sessions are often the location of more severe abuses than competitions.

However, many state animal cruelty laws provide specific exemptions for “training practices“.

The AHA is the only organization addressing the legislative issue, advocating the strengthening of animal cruelty laws in general, with no exceptions for “training practices“.

I am not disputing that man’s courage and skill and tradition as shown in bullfights and rodeos should be respected.

But what of the lives of the animals involved?

What of their dignity, their feelings, their well-being?

Man was appointed by God – if religious writ is to be believed – to have dominion over the beasts.

Everything a man does to an animal is either a lawful exercise or a sacrilegious abuse of an authority by divine right.

C.S. Lewis

Above: Clive Staples Lewis (1898 – 1963)

Humans have “dominion” over animals, but that “dominion” (radah in Hebrew) does not mean despotism.

Rather we are set over creation to care for what God has made and to treasure God’s own treasures.

Andrew Linzey

Above: Andrew Linzey

The more helpless the creature, the more that it is entitled to the protection of man.

Mahatma Gandhi

Above: Mahatma Gandhi ( Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi) (1869 – 1948)

I find myself thinking of three interconnected memories:

In a 12 May 1984 Peanuts comic strip, the dog Snoopy is seen strolling towards Charlie Brown and Sally.

Snoopy gives them both warm and sincere hugs.

Afterwards, Charlie Brown explains their dog’s actions to his puzzled sister:

You can always tell when he’s been listening to Leo Buscaglia tapes.”

Felice Leonardo Buscaglia (1924 – 1998), also known as “Dr. Love“, was an American author, motivational speaker, and a professor in the Department of Special Education at the University of Southern California.

Above: Leo Buscaglia

Buscaglia was born in Los Angeles into a family of Italian immigrants. 

He spent his early childhood in Aosta, Italy, before going back to the US for education.

He was a graduate of Theodore Roosevelt High School.

Buscaglia served in the US Navy during World War II.

He did not see combat, but he saw its aftermath in his duties in the dental section of the military hospital, helping to reconstruct shattered faces. 

Using GI Bill benefits, he entered the University of Southern California, where he earned three degrees (BA 1950, MA 1954, PhD 1963) before eventually joining the faculty.

While teaching at USC, Buscaglia was moved by a student’s suicide to contemplate human disconnectedness and the meaning of life, and began a noncredit class he called Love 1A

This became the basis for his first book, titled simply Love.

He was the first to state and promote the concept of humanity’s need for hugs: 5 to survive, 8 to maintain, and 12 to thrive.

His dynamic speaking style was discovered by PBS (Public Broadcasting Service), and his televised lectures earned great popularity in the 1980s.

At one point his talks, always shown during fundraising periods, were the top earners of all PBS programs.

This national exposure, coupled with the heartfelt storytelling style of his books, helped make all his titles national bestsellers.

Five were once on the New York Times bestsellers list simultaneously.

Buscaglia wrote a dozen books.

I have read only two: Love and The Way of the Bull.

The second aforementioned book reveals the truth of self Leo Buscaglia discovered on two trips to Asia, by travelling the “way of the bull“, as well as describing the people and physical locales of Southeast Asia prior to the Vietnam War.

The meaning of the title originated in the 12th century Zen book, 10 Bulls, by the Zen master Kaku-an Shi-en.

In Kaku-an’s book, the bull represents life, energy, truth and action.

The way” concerns the possible step one man might take to gain insight, find oneself and discover one’s true nature.

Buscaglia reminds us, however, that each person must find that path individually in order for it to have true meaning.

Consider the Ten Bulls:

  1. In search of the bull:

In the pasture of the world, I endlessly push aside the tall grasses in search of the Ox.
Following unnamed rivers, lost upon the interpenetrating paths of distant mountains, my strength failing and my vitality exhausted, I cannot find the Ox.

2. Discovery of the footprints

Along the riverbank under the trees, I discover footprints.
Even under the fragrant grass, I see his prints.
Deep in remote mountains they are found.
These traces can no more be hidden than one’s nose, looking heavenward.

3. Perceiving the bull

I hear the song of the nightingale.
The sun is warm, the wind is mild, willows are green along the shore –
Here no Ox can hide!
What artist can draw that massive head, those majestic horns?

4. Seizing the bull

I seize him with a terrific struggle.
His great will and power are inexhaustible.
He charges to the high plateau far above the cloud-mists,
Or in an impenetrable ravine he stands.

5. Taming the bull

The whip and rope are necessary,
Else he might stray off down some dusty road.
Being well-trained, he becomes naturally gentle.
Then, unfettered, he obeys his master.

6. Riding the bull home

Mounting the Ox, slowly I return homeward.
The voice of my flute intones through the evening.
Measuring with hand-beats the pulsating harmony, I direct the endless rhythm.
Whoever hears this melody will join me.

7. The bull transcended

Astride the Ox, I reach home.
I am serene.

The Ox too can rest.
The dawn has come.

In blissful repose, within my thatched dwelling, I have abandoned the whip and ropes.

8. Both bull and self transcended

Whip, rope, person, and Ox – all merge in No Thing.
This heaven is so vast, no message can stain it.
How may a snowflake exist in a raging fire?
Here are the footprints of the Ancestors.

9. Reaching the source

Too many steps have been taken, returning to the root and the source.
Better to have been blind and deaf from the beginning!
Dwelling in one’s true abode, unconcerned with and without –
The river flows tranquilly on and the flowers are red.

10. Return to society

Barefooted and naked of breast, I mingle with the people of the world.
My clothes are ragged and dust-laden, and I am ever blissful.
I use no magic to extend my life.
Now, before me, the dead trees become alive.

Without love – including love of one’s self – life is without meaning.

Each person must find that path individually in order for it to have true meaning.

In getting lost, in relinquishing the need to control, meaning may be found.

There is much we can learn from nature if we would cease trying to control it.

We fear nature, for we have given nature cause to fear us.

If we would approach all God’s creatures great and small in a spirit of compassion, aware that they too feel, that their lives possess meaning, that they too are deserving of respect and dignity, that they too must find their own path in their own ways, then maybe, just maybe, we might be worthy of life as well.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Rough Guide to Turkey / Arrogant Worms, “I Am Cow“, Dirt / Leo Buscaglia, Love / Leo Buscaglia, The Way of the Bull / Denise Hruby, “Cows bring danger for hikers in Alps“, Washington Post, 12 August 2020 / Charles Schulz, Peanuts, 12 May 1984 / Kaku-an Shi-en, The Ten Bulls / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows

Canada Slim and the Golden Fleece

Eskişehir, Turkey, Sunday 15 May 2022

Thursday and I was once again back on the road to Denizli.

Once again the bus stopped at Kütahya and Afyonkarahisar, Dinar and Dazkiri, with a rare request stop today at Sandikli, before finally arriving at Denizli en route to the bus’s final destinations of Aydin and Bodrum.

The return trip the next day did not vary either:

As usual, there are stops in Uşak and Kütahya before the return back to Eskişehir.

Another week means another day spent in the textile factories of Denizli.

Above: View of Denizli from above

Denizli is an industrial city in the southwestern part of Turkey and the eastern end of the alluvial valley formed by the river Büyük Menderes, where the plain reaches an elevation of about 350 metres (1,148 ft).

The Büyük Menderes River (historically the Maeander or Meander, from Ancient Greek: Μαίανδρος, Maíandros / Turkish: Büyük Menderes Irmağı) rises in west central Turkey near Dinar before flowing west through the Büyük Menderes graben (fault formations) until reaching the Aegean Sea in the proximity of the ancient Ionain city of Miletus.

Above: Hancalar Bridge, Menderes River, Çal, Denizli Province

The word “meander” is used to describe a winding pattern, after the River.

Above: The Great Mederes River

The Büyük Menderes basin in Turkey has five wetlands and the Büyük Menderes river delta is an internationally recognised Important Bird and Biodiversity Area (IBA) for breeding and wintering water birds.

The cities Denizli and Uşak in the area are home to 60% of Turkey’s textile and leather exports.

The Büyük Menderes River contains domestic wastewater originating from settlements and industrial wastewater from industrial establishments.

It is polluted by the effects of excessive, untimely and incorrect use of fertilizers and pesticides. 

From a bird’s eye view of the basin, it is seen that the inadequacy of land use designs, the ruthless destruction of soil and biodiversity with chemicals as a result of too much production, the increase in population and the deterioration of the life balance. 

The discharge of technological, domestic and urban wastes into Büyük Menderes, which continues its function as a waste receiver and transporter environment, has resulted in the deterioration of the ecological balance formed over millions of years in only a few decades. 

In Denizli, Usak and Aydin, there are 20 types of industrial establishments that drain their wastewater into the Büyük Menderes river without treatment. 

According to the DSI basin statistics, the number of municipalities in the Büyük Menderes River Basin is given as 165. 

Only six of them have sewerage networks. 

In the lower basins, the pollution is getting more intense and the river ecosystem is about to disappear.

The region is under threat as the river delta has reached critical pollution levels.

Above: The Great Menderes River

From the food we eat to the fibres we wear, every living thing relies on water.

Climate change, population growth and changing consumption patterns have put fresh water systems at greater risk.

For this reason, the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) has developed a joint project with government, businesses and communities to ensure a sustainable future for the beautiful Büyük Menderes region.

Through the implementation of water stewardship this programme aims to serve as a model in the conservation and sustainable use of water resources that can be scaled up to other basins in Turkey.” World Wildlife Fund for Nature

Denizli is located in the country’s Aegean region.

The city has a population of about 646,278 (2018 census).

This is a jump from 389,000 in 2007, due to the merger of 13 municipalities and 10 villages when the area under Denizli Municipality jurisdiction increased almost fivefold and the population around 50%.

Denizli (Municipality) is the capital city of Denizli Province.

Denizli has seen economic development in the last few decades, mostly due to textile production and exports.

Above: Denizli city emblem

Denizli, an industrial, export and trade centre, is also home to nearly 65,000 university students. 

The literacy rate in Denizli is around 99%. 

As a result of the high importance given to education in the Province, it has a permanent place in the interprovincial success ranking especially in secondary education and university entrance exams such as ÖSS, LGS, SBS, being in the first three places (mostly 1st place) every year. 

For this reason, Denizli Province has an image that is known throughout the country for its high education level and quality, and its successful students. 

In addition, Pamukkale University, established on 3 July 1992, brought a different socio-economic and cultural dynamism and vitality to Denizli.

Above: Logo of Pamukkale University

Hosting millions of local and foreign tourists a year, Denizli is not only a tourism city, but also an education, congress, cultural and artistic centre with local, national and international events.

Denizli attracts visitors to the nearby mineral-coated hillside hot spring of Pamukkale and red thermal water spa hotels of Karahayit just 5 kilometres (3 miles) north of Pamukkale.

Above: Pamukkale

Above: Karahayit

Recently, Denizli became a major domestic tourism destination due to the various types of thermal waters in Sarayköy, Central/Denizli (where Karahayıt and Pamukkale towns are located), Akköy (Gölemezli), Buldan (Yenicekent) and Çardak districts.

Above: Saraköy

Above: Akköy

Above: Buldan

Above: Çardak

The ancient ruined city of Hierapolis, as well as ruins of the city of Laodicea on the Lycus, the ancient metropolis of Phrygia.

Above: Hierapolis

Above: Laodicea on the Lycus

Also Honaz, about 10 mi (16 km) west of Denizli, was in the 1st century CE the city of Colossae.

Above: Colossae

Denizli is a new city, located on the northern slopes of Akdağ (Babadağ), on a plateau slightly split by the streams that meet the Aksu Stream, a tributary of Büyük Menderes.

The main city of the province was Laodicea, seven kilometers north from here.

Laodicea (Laodikeia), devastated as a result of the wars between the Seljuks and Byzantines and with its waterways deteriorated, started to be abandoned and settlement started from the 11th century to move towards Denizli, where there are abundant water resources. 

Ibn Battuta visited the city, noting that:

In it there are seven mosques for the observance of Friday prayers, and it has splendid gardens, perennial streams, and gushing springs.

Most of the artisans there are Greek women, for in it are many Greeks who are subject to the Muslims and who pay dues to the sultan, including the jizyah and other taxes.

Above: Ibn Battuta (1304 – 1369)

In the 17th century, the Turkish traveler Evliya Çelebi visited Denizli and recorded the town as follows:

The city is called by Turks Denizli (which means has abundant of water sources like sea in Turkish) as there are several rivers and lakes around it.

In fact it is a four-day trip from the sea.

Its fortress is a square shape built on flat ground.

It has no ditches.

Its periphery is 470 steps long.

It has four gates.

These are:

  • the Painter’s Gate in the north
  • the Saddlemaker’s Gate in the east
  • the new Mosque Gate in the south
  • the Vineyard Gate in the west.

There are some 50 armed watchmen in the fortress and they attend the shops.

The main city is outside the fortress with 44 districts and 3,600 houses.

There are 57 small and large mosques and district masjids, seven madrashas, seven children’s schools, six baths and 17 dervish lodges.

As everybody lives in vineyards the upper classes and ordinary people do not flee from each other.”

Above: Statue of Evliya Çelebi (1611 – 1682)

Denizli suffered great damage during the earthquake of 1703 and was later rebuilt. 

Denizli, located on a natural road that enters the interior from the Aegean coasts, became rapidly crowded as a result of the development of this location and the agricultural activities around it, especially after the improvement of the highways in the 1950s.

Its population, which was 22,000 in 1950, has increased approximately 25 times in the past 60 years. 

Above: Denizli Museum

Denizli is now one of the most developed cities of Turkey. 

It is among the most important capitals of textile in the world. 

It has a good reputation in the US and the European Union markets for towels, bathrobes and home textiles. 

In addition, Serinhisar District meets 85% of Turkey’s need for chickpeas and chickpea products. 

Denizli is among Turkey’s ten largest economies. 

Its weather and nature reflect the averages of the Aegean region.

The weather is hot in Denizli in summers, whereas in winters, it may occasionally be very cold with snow on the mountains that surround the city.

Some years, snow can be observed in the urban areas.

Springs and autumns are rainy, mild climate, warm.

The vegetation of Denizli is maquis (small shrubs). 

59% of Denizli is covered with forests, 10% is meadows and pastures, 43% is cultivated and planted land. 

The part that is not suitable for cultivation is only 1%.

The vegetation of the Province is mostly composed of forest trees and maquis unique to the Mediterranean climate. 

There are tree species such as larch, red pine, cedar, juniper, oak, chestnut, plane tree, ash, alder (Paint tree), log in the forests. 

The wide areas on the foothills below the borders where the forests begin are covered with bushes and heaths.

I can often see part of these forests from my room in the Hotel Park Dedeman.

The economy of Denizli is based on industry and trade. 

Denizli is an export and industrial city. 

Its service sector is also highly developed and has grown tremendously in the last 15 years. 

Denizli has also exported copper wire to the US.

45% of the population is engaged in agriculture, fishing, beekeeping, forestry and animal husbandry. 

30% of all income comes from industry. 

Denizli is one of the leading exporting cities known as “Anatolian Tigers” in Turkey. 

It is one of Turkey’s locomotive industrial cities with billions of dollars in exports every year.

 

Although Denizli is known as the capital of textile in Turkey, due to the economic losses experienced in textile in recent years, the economic balances have shifted to the marble and natural stone sector. 

Travertine and its derivatives marble and natural stone are exported from Denizli to all countries of the world.

Industry in Denizli is highly developed.

Weaving, energy, automotive sub-industry, mining and metal industries are at the forefront.

Above: Denizli travertine

textile is a flexible material made by creating an interlocking bundle of yarns or threads, which are produced by spinning raw fibers (from either natural or synthetic sources) into long and twisted lengths.

Textiles are then formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, tatting, felting, bonding or braiding these yarns together.

The related words “fabric” and “cloth” and “material” are often used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile.

However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage.

A textile is any material made of interlacing fibers, including carpeting and geotextiles, which may not necessarily be used in the production of further goods, such as clothing and upholstery.

The word ‘textile‘ comes from the Latin adjective textilis, meaning ‘woven‘, which itself stems from textus, the past participle of the verb texere, ‘to weave‘.

Originally applied to woven fabrics, the term “textiles” is now used to encompass a diverse range of materials, including fibres, yarns and fabrics, as well as other related items.

fabric is a material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, felting, stitching, crocheting or bonding that may be used in the production of further products, such as clothing and upholstery, thus requiring a further step of the production. 

The word ‘fabric‘ also derives from Latin, with roots in the Proto-Indo-European language.

Stemming most recently from the Middle French fabrique, (‘building or thing made‘), and earlier from the Latin fabrica (‘workshop; an art, trade; a skillful production, structure, fabric‘), the noun fabrica stems from the Latin faber, (‘artisan who works in hard materials‘), which itself is derived from the Proto-Indo-European dhabh, meaning ‘to fit together‘.

Cloth may also be used synonymously with fabric, but often specifically refers to a piece of fabric that has been processed or cut.

The word ‘cloth‘ derives from the Old English clað, meaning a ‘cloth, woven or felted material to wrap around ones body‘, from the Proto-Germanic kalithaz, similar to the Old Frisian klath, the Middle Dutch cleet, the Middle High German kleit and the German kleid, all meaning ‘garment‘.

The precursor of today’s textiles includes leaves, barks, fur pelts, and felted cloths.

The Banton Burial Cloth, the oldest existing example of warp ikat in Southeast Asia, is displayed at the National Museum of the Philippines.

The cloth was most likely made by the native Asian people of the northwest Romblon.

Above: Remnants of the Banton Burial Cloth

Above: Logo of the National Museum of the Philippines

The first clothes, worn at least 70,000 years ago and perhaps much earlier, were probably made of animal skins and helped protect early humans from the elements. At some point, people learned to weave plant fibers into textiles.

The discovery of dyed flax fibers in a cave in the Republic of Georgia dated to 34,000 BCE suggests that textile-like materials were made as early as the Paleolithic era.

The speed and scale of textile production have been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern manufacturing techniques.

Above: Flag of the Republic of Georgia

Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and for containers, such as bags and baskets.

In the household, textiles are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels, coverings for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in art.

In the workplace, textiles can be used in industrial and scientific processes, such as filtering.

Miscellaneous uses include flags, backpacks, tents, nets, handkerchiefs, cleaning rags, and transportation devices, such as balloons, kites, sails and parachutes.

Textiles are also used to provide strengthening in composite materials such as fibreglass and industrial geotextiles.

Textiles are used in many traditional hand crafts, such as sewing, guilting and embroidery.

Textiles produced for industrial purposes, and designed and chosen for technical characteristics beyond their appearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles. 

Technical textiles include:

  • textile structures for automotive applications
  • medical textiles (such as implants)
  • geotextile (reinforcement of embankments)
  • agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection)
  • protective clothing (such as clothing resistant to heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests).

Due to the often highly technical and legal requirements of these products, these textiles are typically tested in order to ensure they meet stringent performance requirements.

Other forms of technical textiles may be produced to experiment with their scientific qualities and to explore the possible benefits they may have in the future.

Threads coated with zinc oxide nanowires, when woven into fabric, have been shown capable of “self-powering nanosystems“, using vibrations created by everyday actions like wind or body movements to generate energy.

Above: Textile market, Karachi, Pakistan

Textiles are made from many materials, with four main sources:

  • animal (wool, silk)
  • plant (cotton, flax, jute, bamboo)
  • mineral (asbestos, glass fibre)
  • synthetic (nylon, polyester, acrylic, rayon).

The first three are natural.

In the 20th century, they were supplemented by artificial fibers made from petroleum.

Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest microfibre made of strands thinner than one denier to the sturdiest canvas. 

Textile manufacturing terminology has a wealth of descriptive terms, from light gauze-like gossamer to heavy grosgrain cloth and beyond.

Above: Fabric shop, Mukalia, Yemen



Animal textiles are commonly made from hair, fur, skin or silk (in the case of silkworms).

  • Wool refers to the hair of the domestic sheep or goat, which is distinguished from other types of animal hair in that the individual strands are coated with scales and tightly crimped.

Wool as a whole is coated with a wax mixture known as lanolin (sometimes called wool grease), which is waterproof and dirtproof.

The lanolin and other contaminants are removed from the raw wool before further processing.

Woolen refers to a yarn produced from carded, non-parallel fibre, while worsted refers to a finer yarn spun from longer fibers which have been combed to be parallel.

  • Other animal textiles which are made from hair or fur are alpaca wool, vicuna woolllama wool, and camel hair, generally used in the production of coats, jackets, ponchos, blankets and other warm coverings.
  • Cashmere, the hair of the Indian cashmere goat, and mohair, the hair of the North African angora goat, are types of wool known for their softness and are used in the production of sweaters and scarfs.
  • Angora refers to the long, thick, soft hair of the angora rabbit. 
  • Qiviut is the fine inner wool of the muskox.

Above: Alpaca wool textiles, Otavalo Artisan Market, Ecuador

Wool is produced by follicles which are small cells located in the skin.

These follicles are located in the upper layer of the skin (called the epidermis) and push down into the second skin layer (called the dermis) as the wool fibers grow.

Follicles can be classed as either primary or secondary follicles.

Primary follicles produce three types of fiber:

  • kemp
  • medullated fibers
  • true wool fibers.

Secondary follicles only produce true wool fibers.

Medullated fibers share nearly identical characteristics to hair and are long but lack crimp and elasticity.

Kemp fibers are very coarse and shed out.

Above: Wool before processing

Wool’s crimp and, to a lesser degree, scales, make it easier to spin the fleece by helping the individual fibers attach to each other, so they stay together.

Because of the crimp, wool fabrics have greater bulk than other textiles.

They hold air, which causes the fabric to retain heat.

Wool has a high specific thermal resistance, so it impedes heat transfer in general.

This effect has benefited desert peoples, such as the Bedouins and Tuaregs, who use wool clothes for insulation.

Felting of wool occurs upon hammering or other mechanical agitation as the microscopic barbs on the surface of wool fibers hook together.

Felting generally comes under two main areas: dry felting or wet felting.

Wet felting occurs when water and a lubricant (especially an alkali such as soap) are applied to the wool which is then agitated until the fibers mix and bond together.

Temperature shock while damp or wet accentuates the felting process.

Some natural felting can occur on the animal’s back.

Above: Wool samples

Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from hair/fur:

It is crimped and elastic.

The amount of crimp corresponds to the fineness of the wool fibers.

A fine wool, like merino, may have up to 40 crimps per centimetre (100 crimps per inch), while coarser wool, like karakul, may have less than one crimp per centimeter (one or two crimps per inch).

In contrast, hair has little, if any, scale, and no crimp, and little ability to bind into yarn.

Above: Unshorn Merino sheep

On sheep, the hair part of the fleece is called kemp.

The relative amounts of kemp to wool vary from breed to breed and make some fleeces more desirable for spinning, felting or carding into batts for quilts or other insulating products, including the famous tweed cloth of Scotland.

Wool fibers readily absorb moisture, but are not hollow.

Wool can absorb almost one-third of its own weight in water.

Wool absorbs sound like many other fabrics.

It is generally a creamy white color, although some breeds of sheep produce natural colors, such as black, brown, silver, and random mixes.

Above: Wool samples, Auction House, Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia

Wool ignites at a higher temperature than cotton and some synthetic fibers.

It has a lower rate of flame spread, a lower rate of heat release, a lower heat of combustion, and does not melt or drip. 

It forms a char that is insulating and self-extinguishing, and it contributes less to toxic gases and smoke than other flooring products when used in carpets.

Wool carpets are specified for high safety environments, such as trains and aircraft.

Wool is usually specified for garments for firefighters, soldiers, and others in occupations where they are exposed to the likelihood of fire.

Above: Fleece of fine New Zealand Merino wool and combed wool top on a wool table

Wool causes an allergic reaction in some people.

Above: Johnny Galecki (Leonard Hofstadter), The Big Bang Theory

Animal breeding has been an important part of human life throughout history and has provided great benefits.

The aim of animal breeding is to conduct profitable breeding by raising high-yielding and healthy animals.

The elements that determine the profitability of animal breeding are breed of the animals raised, breeding techniques and market conditions.

On a good day, outside of Dinar or Uşak I sometimes see flocks of sheep.

Suddenly it is a timeless moment.

Sheep have had a strong presence in many cultures, especially in areas where they form the most common type of livestock.

In the English language, to call someone a sheep or ovine may allude that they are timid and easily led.

In contradiction to this image, male sheep are often used as symbols of virility and power; the logos of the Los Angeles Rams football team and the Dodge Ram pickup truck allude to males of the bighorn sheep, Ovis canadensis.

Above: Uniforms of the Los Angeles Rams National Football League (NFL) team

Above: Bighorn ram

Counting sheep is popularly said to be an aid to sleep.

Some ancient systems of counting sheep persist today.

Sheep also enter in colloquial sayings and idiom frequently with such phrases as “black sheep“.

To call an individual a black sheep implies that they are an odd or disreputable member of a group.

This usage derives from the recessive trait that causes an occasional black lamb to be born into an entirely white flock.

These black sheep were considered undesirable by shepherds, as black wool is not as commercially viable as white wool.

Citizens who accept overbearing governments have been referred to by the portmanteau neologism of sheeple.

(Sheeple is a derogatory term that highlights the passive herd behavior of people easily controlled by a governing power or market fads which likens them to sheep, a herd animal that is “easily” led about.

The term is used to describe those who voluntarily acquiesce to a suggestion without any significant critical analysis or research, in large part due to the majority of a population having a similar mindset.

Above: Donald Trump

Word Spy defines it as “people who are meek, easily persuaded, and tend to follow the crowd (sheep + people)“.

Merriam-Webster defines the term as “people who are docile, compliant, or easily influenced: people likened to sheep“.

The word is pluralia tantum, which means it does not have a singular form.

While its origins are unclear, the word was used by W. R. Anderson in his column Round About Radio, published in London 1945, where he wrote:

The simple truth is that you can get away with anything, in government.

That covers almost all the evils of the time.

Once in, nobody, apparently, can turn you out.

The People, as ever (I spell it “Sheeple”), will stand anything.

Above: Logo of Turkey’s reigning government party, the Justice and Development Party (AKP)

Another early use was from Ernest Rogers, whose 1949 book The Old Hokum Bucket contained a chapter entitled “We the Sheeple“.

The Wall Street Journal first reported the label in print in 1984.

The reporter heard the word used by the proprietor of the American Opinion bookstore.

In this usage, taxpayers were derided for their blind conformity as opposed to those who thought independently.

The term was first popularized in the late 1980s and early 1990s by conspiracy theorist and broadcaster Bill Cooper on his radio program The Hour of the Time which was broadcast internationally via shortwave radio stations.

The program gained a small, yet dedicated following, inspiring many individuals who would later broadcast their own radio programs critical of the United States government.

Above: Bill Cooper (1943 – 2001)

This then led to its regular use on the radio program Coast to Coast AM by Art Bell throughout the 1990s and early 2000s.

These combined factors significantly increased the popularity of the word and led to its widespread use.

Above: Art Bell (1945 – 2018)

The term can also be used for those who seem inordinately tolerant, or welcoming, of widespread policies.

In a column entitled “A Nation of Sheeple“, columnist Walter E. Williams writes:

Above: Walter E. Williams (1936 – 2020)

Americans sheepishly accepted all sorts of Transportation Security Administration nonsense.

In the name of security, we’ve allowed fingernail clippers, eyeglass screwdrivers, and toy soldiers to be taken from us prior to boarding a plane.“)

Somewhat differently, the adjective “sheepish” is also used to describe embarrassment.

In antiquity, symbolism involving sheep cropped up in religions in the ancient Near East, the Middle East, and the Mediterranean area: Çatalhöyük, ancient Egyptian religion, Canaanite and Phoenician traditions, Judaism, Greek religion, and others.

Religious symbolism and ritual involving sheep began with some of the first known faiths:

Skulls of rams (along with bulls) occupied central placement in shrines at the Çatalhöyük settlement in 8,000 BCE.

Above: Ruins of Çatalhöyük, Konya Plain, Turkey

In ancient Egyptian religion, the ram was the symbol of several gods: Khnum, Heryshaf and Amun (in his incarnation as a god of fertility).

Above: Pyramids of Giza, Cairo, Egypt

Other deities occasionally shown with ram features include the goddess Ishtar, the Phoenician god Baal-Hamon, and the Babylonian god Ea-Oannes.

Above: Goddess Ishtar on an Akkadian seal

In Madagascar, sheep were not eaten as they were believed to be incarnations of the souls of ancestors.

Above: Flag of Madagascar

There are many ancient Greek references to sheep: that of Chrysomallos, the golden-fleeced ram, continuing to be told through into the modern era. 

Astrologically, Aries, the ram, is the first sign of the classical Greek zodiac.

The sheep is the eighth of the twelve animals associated with the 12-year cycle of in the Chinese zodiac, related to the Chinese calendar.

In Mongolia, shagai are an ancient form of dice made from the cuboid bones of sheep that are often used for fortunetelling purposes.

Above: Flag of Mongolia

Above: Shagai

Sheep play an important role in all the Abrahamic faiths: 

Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, Moses, King David and the Islamic prophet Muhammad were once all shepherds.

Above: Guercino’s Abraham (2150 – 1975 BCE), Banishment of Hagar and Ismael, 1657

Above: (right foreground) Isaac

Above: Rembrandt’s Jacob wrestling with the angel, 1659

Above: Guido Reni’s Moses with the Tables of the Law, 1624

Above: Gerard von Horst’s King David (r. 1010 – 970 BCE) playing the harp, 1622







Above: “Muhammad, the Messenger of God“, inscribed on the gates of the Prophet’s Mosque, Medina, Saudi Arabia

According to the Biblical story of the Binding of Isaac, a ram is sacrificed as a substitute for Isaac after an angel stays Abraham’s hand.

Above: Caravaggio’s Sacrifice of Isaac, 1603

(In the Islamic tradition, Abraham was about to sacrifice Ishmael). 

Above: Ibrahim’s Sacrifice, Timurid Anthology, 1411

Eid al-Adha is a major annual festival in Islam in which sheep (or other animals) are sacrificed in remembrance of this act.

Sheep are occasionally sacrificed to commemorate important secular events in Islamic cultures.

Above: Eid prayer, Badshahi Mosque, Lahore, Pakistan

Greeks and Romans sacrificed sheep regularly in religious practice.

Judaism once sacrificed sheep as a Korban (sacrifice), such as the Passover lamb.

Above: Practice of Passover sacrifice by Temple Mount activists, Jerusalem, Israel, 2012

Ovine symbols — such as the ceremonial blowing of a shofar — still find a presence in modern Judaic traditions.

Above: Shofar

Collectively, followers of Christianity are often referred to as a flock, with Christ as the Good Shepherd.

Above: Bernhard Plockhurst’s The good shepherd

Sheep are an element in the Christian iconography of the birth of Jesus.

Above: Giotto’s Birth of Jesus, Scrovegni Chapel, Padua, Italy

Some Christian saints are considered patrons of shepherds, and even of sheep themselves.

Above: Statue of Saint Drogo of Sebourg (1105 – 1186), Église de Saint-Droun de Sebourg, France

Christ is also portrayed as the sacrificial lamb of God (Agnus Dei).

Easter celebrations in Greece and Romania traditionally feature a meal of Paschal lamb.

Above: Flag of Greece

Above: Flag of Romania

A church leader is often called the pastor, which is derived from the Latin word for shepherd.

In many western Christian traditions bishops carry a staff, which also serves as a symbol of the episcopal office, known as a crosier, which is modeled on the shepherd’s crook.

Above: A crosier

Above: A shepherd’s crook

Sheep are key symbols in: 

  • fables and nursery rhymes like The Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing, Little Bo Peep, Baa Baa Black Sheep, and Mary Had a Little Lamb

  • novels such as George Orwell’s Animal Farm and Haruki Murakami’s A Wild Sheep Chase

Above: Eric Arthur Blair (aka George Orwell) (1903 – 1950)

Above: Haruki Murakami

Above: Japanese first edition of A Wild Sheep Chase

  • songs such as Bach’s “Schafe können sicher weiden” (sheep may safely graze) and Pink Floyd’s “Sheep

Above: Johann Sebastian Bach (1685 – 1750)

  • poems like William Blake’s “The Lamb

Above: William Blake (1757 – 1827)

According to data from 2017, the number of cattle in Turkey is 16 million, 105 thousand, the number of sheep is 33 million, 677 thousand, and the number of goats is 10 million, 636 thousand.

The total milk production amounted to 20 million, 699 thousand tons, of which 1.344 million tons were produced from sheep.

The production of red meat was 1,126,403 tons, of which 100,058 tons were met by sheep.

Above: Flag of Turkey

In the region of Uşak, there are 376,104 sheep and 4,260 sheep-raising businesses.

Above: Ancient Phrygian Cilandiras bridge in Uşak Province

In sheep breeding, the main objective is undoubtedly economic production and/or breeding.

In order to achieve this goal, environmental factors (maintenance, nutrition, shelter, health protection, etc.) that will have an impact on yields must be improved or the genetic makeup of animals must be improved or both of them should be addressed together.

The desired production goal is often not achieved by improving either environmental conditions or the genetic makeup alone.

For this reason, firstly, breeds suitable for the existing region and the conditions of the business should be selected, while at the same time appropriate environmental conditions must be provided for these breeds.

Besides strategic importance, agriculture is one of the most important sectors in Turkey for many reasons, such as the high number of people living in rural areas, traditional conception of production, employment opportunities and contribution to economy.

Uşak has a population of 500,000 (2016 census) and is the capital of Uşak Province.

Uşak is situated at a distance of 210 km (130 mi) from Izmir, the region’s principal metropolitan centre and port city.

Benefiting from its location at the crossroads of the Central Anatolian plateau and the coastal Aegean region, and from a climate and agricultural production incorporating elements of both of these zones, Uşak has also traditionally had a strong industrial base.

In pre-industrial times, Uşak was already a major center of production and export, particularly of Ushak carpets.

Ushak carpets are also called Holbein carpets in reference to the 16th century painter Hans Holbein the Younger who depicted them in minute detail in his paintings, reflecting their popularity in European markets.

Above: Self-portrait, Hans Holbein the Younger (1497 – 1543)

At least since the 17th century there was trade between Uşak and the Dutch Republic as reflected in the rug shown thrown over the bannister in Vermeer’s painting “The Procuress“.

Above: Flag of the Netherlands

The rug was probably produced in Uşak and covers a third of the painting and shows medallions and leaves.

Above: Self-portrait, Johannes Vermeer (1632 – 1675)

Above: Johannes Vermeer’s The Procuress, Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister, Dresden, Germany

The level of international popularity attained by Uşak’s carpets became such that the word “Ushak” is considered an English word of Turkic origin.

Although Uşak’s carpet patterns have evolved since then, large-scale weaving still continues and the name of the city still has an important presence in the market for carpets, both hand-woven and industrial.

On the other hand, the district of Eşme, which is also in Uşak Province, is famous for its kilims.

Above: Uşak Holbein carpet

Above: A kilim – a tapestry-woven carpet

Uşak was the first city in Turkey to have an urban electricity network, and the first city where a collective labour relations agreement was signed, during the Ottoman era, between leather industry employees and workers.

It was here that the first factory of Republican Turkey, a sugar refinery, was set up through a private sector initiative among local businessmen.

The tradition of industriousness continues today in Uşak.

In the city center, there is the Uşak Organized Textile Industrial Zone and the Mixed (Leather) Organized Industrial Zone. 

Above: Uşak

Uşak is an industrial city producing yarn, raw and printed cloth, fiber, blanket, leather, ceramics and carpets.

There are 127 schools and institutions in Uşak, including primary and secondary education and vocational and technical education. 

Uşak University was established on 17 December 2006.

Above: Logo of Uşak University

In the early 20th century, mercury was discovered in Uşak.

Above: Liquid mercury

Among other district centers in Uşak Province, Banaz is the largest and is notable for its varied agricultural production as well as for its forests. 

Above: Banaz train station

Meanwhile Ulubey’s canyon is a natural site attracting many visitors.

Above: Ulubey Canyon

In 2015, the total number of sheep raising businesses registered in Uşak Food Agriculture and Livestock Provincial Directorate was 4,260.

The sheep raising businesses’ average time of being involved in the activity of sheep raising is 9.8 years.

When the reasons for them to be involved in sheep raising are examined, it is seen that for 54% of them it is the sole source of income, 25.6% of them have to support their families and 12.4% love doing it.

81.1% learned sheep raising from their ancestors.

77.4% are members of the Association of Breeding Sheep and Goat Raisers while 5.6% are not.

35.4% provide their breeding animals from both their herds and other herds, 25.6% provide them only from their own herds, 34.5% provide from other herds and 0.5% from other cities.

90% of the shepherds are from among the family members and 6.5% of them are hired.

Of the shepherds, 89.5% are males and 4% are females.

When the shepherds’ level of education is examined, it is seen that 3% of them are illiterate, 2.8% are just literate, 27.9% are elementary school graduates, 1.7% are middle school graduates and 1.2% are high school graduates.

There are almost no university graduates amongst sheep breeders in the country.

Of the participating sheep raising businesses, 46.3% use metal waterers and 42% use plastic waterers.

Of the businesses, 49% use wooden mangers and 43.6% use metal mangers.

They are followed by plastic and cement mangers (12% and 10%, respectively).

As the source of water, 69% of the sheep raising businesses use fountains, 21% use lakes and 4.2% use well water.

90% of sheep pens are located in villages.

61% of the pens are independently located away from the farm buildings.

69% of the roofs of the pens are constructed with tiles.

60% of the walls of the pens are built of bricks.

77% of the floors of the pens are soil.

59% of the pens possess a ventilation chimney.

59% of the pens possess no shade for the sheep.

88% of the pens possess no baths for the beasts.

Only 23% of sheep actually graze for their fodder.

80% of sheep spend their nights outdoors.

95% of sheep pens have a hayloft.

44% of the sheep pens are complete enclosures.

88% of the sheep pens lack milking facilities.

82% of the pens are cleaned every winter.

89% of the pens are aired out every winter.

In Uşak, the mating of sheep is performed by using both the free insemination and controlled mating.

The businesses prefer the free insemination method with 89.0% and controlled mating with 6.1% and class style with 0.7%.

While 80.4% of the businesses keep rams within the herd throughout the year, 15.4% of them keep them in the herd during the period of mating of sheep.

The period of meeting of sheep ends in September with 48% and there are some businesses ending their sheep mating period in October or November.

The time of insemination is at night with 63.6% and towards the end of the evening with 10.5%.

Mating of sheep is performed in the village (14.5%), the summer range (3.3%), on grazing land (6.8%) and in the sheep pen (64.3%).

The number of sheep reserved for a ram is 25 on average.

In Uşak, free insemination is used for the mating of sheep with 89.0%; in 80.4% of the businesses, rams are kept in the herd throughout the year and 15.4% of them keep rams in the herd only in the sheep mating period.

Depending on the time of mating of sheep, births to lambs are given in December (74.6%), January (9.1%), February (4.7%) and other months (5.6%).

In 84.9% of the sheep raising businesses, care of the umbilical cord is not performed.

While 31% of the businesses wean their lambs when they are three months old, 24.5% of them let lambs suck their mothers for five months.

Of the businesses, 76% do not perform milking until lambs are weaned.

A majority of the sheep-raising businesses in Uşak (62.2%) stated that they start extra feeding in the first month of the birth.

While 42.7% of the businesses start milking in May, 36.4% start in April and 7.9% start in March.

While a majority of the businesses (52%) end milking in August, 17.7% end it in July and 15.4% in September.

While a high majority of the businesses (81.6%) perform single milking a day, 9.6% of the businesses perform two milkings.

The time of milking is morning in 22.1% of the businesses, afternoon-evening in 51.3% of the businesses and morning-evening in 13.8% of the businesses.

While milking is usually performed by family members (83.7%), in some businesses shepherds (5.8%) perform milking and in 1.6% of the businesses this is done by milkers.

In 5.6% of the businesses, milking is performed by females and males together, in 77.4% of them only by females and in 4.7% by males.

In 67.1% of the businesses udder cleaning is not done and in 20.7% it is done.

Above: Sheep dairy farm, Aveyron, France

Sheep are clipped once a year.

Clipping of sheep is performed in Uşak in different months (May, June, August and September).

May and June are preferred more.

Clipping is usually performed by the owner of the herd (80.2%).

While clipping is mostly performed with a machine with 66%, a clipper is used in 29.6%.

When the information about extra feeding before the mating of sheep is examined, it is seen that while 36.1% of the businesses carry out extra feeding before the mating of sheep and 59% of them don’t.

The businesses carrying out extra feeding do this with rams and sheep (20%), with only rams (16.1%) and with only sheep (12%).

The most prominent sources of feed of the sheep raising businesses are: factory feed, particle feed, chaff, straw, or silage.

In extra feeding, the most commonly used source of it is factory feed (30.8) followed by particle feed (15.2%).

In the winter feeding of sheep, mostly barley is used (73.9%).

Some businesses use wheat, factory feed, beet pulp, cotton pulp, silage, tare, alfalfa, oat, hay and straw together with barley.

In pregnant sheep, while the rate of businesses performing extra feeding is 54.3%, 39.6% do not perform extra feeding.

The rate of extra feeding is 12% at the beginning of pregnancy, 9.6% at the middle of pregnancy and 36.4% at the end of pregnancy.

It was found that the rate of the businesses performing extra feeding to animals before the mating of sheep is 23.5%.

In the sheep raising businesses, 55.2% of the milk is used in cheese production.

The rest is used to make yogurt and to meet the needs of their own families (milk, yogurt and cheese).

Above: Feta cheese

Of the lambs obtained in the sheep raising businesses, 58.3% are sold to tradesmen after they have been weaned, 15.6% are fed up in the business, 15.6% are spared as breeding animals, and 10.5% are either sold to tradesmen, or sold as breeding animals, or fed up in the business.

Vaccination programs applied by sheep raising businesses in Uşak include enterotoxemia, brucella, smallpox, foot-and-mouth, plague, and bluetongue vaccines.

Of the sheep-raising businesses, 90% have a health protection schedule.

The control of vaccine programs is done by veterinary surgeons (84.1%), by veterinary health officials (3.0%) and by the business owners themselves (9.1%).

The sheep-raising businesses stated that they conduct disinfection in sheep pens.

The rate of the businesses conducting cleaning and disinfection in spring, summer, autumn and winter is 63.2%, 7.5%, 15.9% and %0.5, respectively and 72.7% of the disinfection is done by lime, 13.3% by chemical medicine and 2.3% by burning.

While the rate of those which have bath pits for sheep in the sheep pen is 8.4%, the rate of those which do not have bath pits is 91.6%.

The rate of those bathing their sheep at least once a year is 18.6% and the rate of those bathing their sheep more than once is 5.4%.

The rate of those conducting struggles with parasites at least once is 29.4%, the rate of those conducting it twice is 64.8% and the rate of those doing it more than three times is 5.8%.

It was found that 59.8% of the sheep-raising businesses get information from veterinary surgeons when they want to use any medicine, 38.1% from the City and Provincial Directorates of Agriculture, and 1.0% from other business owners in the village.

The rate of the sheep-raising businesses which apply all of the protective vaccines was found to be 64.9%.

The businesses apply their vaccines according to schedule with 84%, while 16% of them apply them randomly or when a disease emerges.

In 94.3% of the businesses, veterinary surgeons give the vaccines, while 5.7% themselves give the vaccines.

As breeders generally think that health protection program generally bring extra costs, they can ignore such protection programs.

As a result of this, increases occur in lamb deaths, deterioration in growth and decline in yields by adults, leading to important losses.

The distribution of the problems that seem to be important for sheep raising is as follows:

  • high cost of feed + inadequate and poor quality grazing lands (80.2%)
  • inadequate and poor quality grazing lands (6.4%)
  • high cost of feed + inadequate and poor quality gazing lands + animal diseases (3.5%)
  • high cost of feed + inadequate and poor quality grazing lands + low sale prices (3.3%)
  • high cost of feed (3.2%) and animal diseases and other reasons (3.4%).

The sheep raising businesses made the following suggestions to make sheep raising more profitable:

  • marketing price + improving grazing lands (30.0%)
  • improving the genetic make-up of the herd + marketing price + improving grazing lands + expanding land areas for the cultivation of feed crops (16.2%)
  • improving the generic make-up of the herd + marketing + improving grazing lands (11.3%)
  • marketing price + improving grazing lands + expanding land areas for the cultivation of feed crops (9.6%)
  • only marketing (8.2%)
  • only improving grazing lands (4.4%)
  • improving the genetic make-up of the herd + marketing price + cheap credit + improving grazing lands + expanding land areas for the cultivation of feed crops (7.1%)
  • marketing price + cheap credit + improving grazing lands (5.2%)
  • expanding land areas for the cultivation of feed crops (5.7%)
  • feed + supply of breeding animals, improving and cheap credit (2.3%).

In 3% of all the cultivated lands, feed crops are grown while in countries having a developed animal breeding sector, nearly 25% of the cultivated lands are allocated to cultivation of feed crops and even in some countries, this rate can reach 50%.

On the other hand, the main problems of the sheep raising businesses were found to be as follows:

  • marketing (39.1%)
  • high feed prices (23.1%)
  • inadequate grazing lands (21.8%)
  • credit problem (9.2%)
  • education and health problems (6.8%)

Of these businesses, 51.4% want a solution to the marketing problem, 15.1% to the grazing land problem, 14.7% to the credit problem, 10% to the health problem, 7.7% to the problem of breeding animals.

In Uşak, the Pırlak breed is widely raised (90.7%).

Though all of the business owners are literate, there are almost no university graduate business owners.

Sheep breeding primarily relies on grazing lands.

The mating of sheep is generally performed through free insemination.

The sheep pens, waterers and mangers possessed by the businesses are generally made up of regional and cheap materials.

The sizes such as length, width and height are sufficient and the sheep pens are usually built in the village under, next to the house.

The income sources of the businesses are milk, yoghurt, sale of breeding and butchery animals.

Yet, there are serious problems regarding packaging and marketing of products.

It can be argued that there is a certain level of consciousness of the animal health and anticipated importance is attached to vaccination.

The most important problems of sheep breeding are high feed prices, low product prices, inadequate and poor quality of grazing lands, and animal diseases.

In order to make sheep raising more attractive, the prices of the products should be increased, grazing lands should be improved, the genetic structure of the herd should be improved, the amount of land area where feed crops are cultivated should be expanded and suitable credit conditions should be provided.

On the other hand, they need to be informed about sheep mating, lamb growing, stock, milking hygiene, general sheep feeding practices and marketing.

Moreover, new breeds with better birth and milk efficiency can be introduced to the breeders apart from the Pırlak breed, works should be conducted on how to enhance birth efficiency, on out-of-season lambing and on intensive lamb breeding.

The herd health management and preventive medicine programs are designed to minimize anticipated problems and to enhance herd yield and may change from business to business.

Therefore, they should be designed to increase birth efficiency, decrease the rate of death, accelerate the growth, improve carcass quality, improve care and feeding practices to increase the amount and quality of milk, enhance animal raising techniques, improve vaccination program and parasite control and manure management.

For the successful application of health protection programs and accomplishment of the anticipated outcomes, there is a need for conscious and educated breeders.

In February 2018, the government of Turkey announced that it would “distribute 300 sheep to every farmer” in Turkey who wants it in a bid to revive the livestock sector, to encourage farmers not to move to urban areas, and to ease high meat prices, Agriculture and Livestock Minister Ahmet Eşref Fakıbaba stated.

Above: Ahmet Eşref Fakıbaba

We will distribute 300 sheep to every farmer.

Our priority is preventing more farmers from moving to urban areas, not to motivate people who live in the cities to move to villages.

When distributing those animals, regions with pastures will be given priority,” Fakıbaba said, speaking at a sector summit in the eastern province of Kars hosted by Hürriyet and Denizbank.

Above: Logo of Hürriyet newspaper

He also noted that the government has been working on how to curb imports and support animal breeding, amid criticism of rising imports of meat and struggling domestic production.

We have done the math.

If we provide 300 sheep and a year later they give birth to 300 lambs, breeders will keep those lambs and the state will buy back the sheep to redistribute to other farmers,” Fakıbaba said.

He also added that the government will also pay for the veterinary costs, social security and the minimum wage.

I have not heard what has happened to this notion since.

Sheep shearing is the process in which a worker (a shearer) cuts off the woolen fleece of a sheep.

After shearing, wool classers separate the wool into four main categories:

  • fleece (which makes up the vast bulk)
  • broken
  • bellies
  • locks

The quality of fleeces is determined by a technique known as wool classing, whereby a qualified person, called a wool classer, groups wools of similar grading together to maximize the return for the farmer or sheep owner.

In Australia, before being auctioned, all Merino fleece wool is objectively measured for average diameter (micron), yield (including the amount of vegetable matter), staple length, staple strength, and sometimes colour and comfort factor.

Above: Machine shearing a Merion sheep, Yallingup, Western Australia.
The shearer is using a sling for back support.

Wool straight off a sheep is known as “raw wool”, “greasy wool” or “wool in the grease“.

This wool contains a high level of valuable lanolin, as well as the sheep’s dead skin and sweat residue, and generally also contains pesticides and vegetable matter from the animal’s environment.

Before the wool can be used for commercial purposes, it must be scoured, a process of cleaning the greasy wool.

Scouring may be as simple as a bath in warm water or as complicated as an industrial process using detergent and alkali in specialized equipment.

In northwest England, special potash pits were constructed to produce potash used in the manufacture of a soft soap for scouring locally produced white wool.

Above: Potash, Yorkshire, England

Vegetable matter in commercial wool is often removed by chemical carbonization. 

In less-processed wools, vegetable matter may be removed by hand and some of the lanolin left intact through the use of gentler detergents.

This semi-greasy wool can be worked into yarn and knitted into particularly water-resistant mittens or sweaters, such as those of the Aran Island fishermen.

Lanolin removed from wool is widely used in cosmetic products, such as hand creams.

Above: Wool before and after scouring

Typically each adult sheep is shorn once each year (a sheep may be said to have been “shorn” or “sheared“, depending upon dialect).

The annual shearing most often occurs in a shearing shed, a facility especially designed to process often hundreds and sometimes more than 3,000 sheep per day.

Sheep are shorn in all seasons, depending on the climate, management requirements and the availability of a wool classer and shearers.

Ewes are normally shorn prior to lambing in the warmer months, but consideration is typically made as to the welfare of the lambs by not shearing during cold climate winters.

However, in high country regions, pre-lamb shearing encourages ewes to seek shelter among the hillsides so that newborn lambs aren’t completely exposed to the elements.

Shorn sheep tolerate frosts well, but young sheep especially will suffer in cold, wet windy weather (even in cold climate summers).

In this event they are sheltered for several nights until the weather clears.

Some sheep may also be shorn with stud combs, commonly known as cover combs, which leave more wool on the animal in colder months, giving greater protection.

Sheep shearing is also considered a sport with competitions held around the world. 

It is often done between spring and summer.

Above: Shorn sheep

(Sheep shearing and wool handling competitions are held regularly in parts of the world, particularly Ireland, the UK, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia.

Above: Flag of Ireland

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland

Above: Flag of South Africa

Above: Flag of New Zealand

Above: Flag of Australia

As sheep shearing is an arduous task, speed shearers, for all types of equipment and sheep, are usually very fit and well trained.

In Wales a sheep shearing contest is one of the events of the Royal Welsh Show, the country’s premier agricultural show held near Builth Wells.

Above: Flag of Wales

Above: Royal Welsh Agricultural Show Ground, Llanelwedd, Bulith Wells, Powys, Wales

The world’s largest sheep shearing and wool handling contest, the Golden Shears, is held in Wairarapa, New Zealand.

Above: Golden Shears Competition, 2007

The shearing World Championships are hosted by different countries every two to three years and eight countries have hosted the event.

The first World Championships were held at the Bath & West Showground, England, in 1977, and the first Machine-Shearing winner was Roger Cox from New Zealand.

Above: Bath and West Showground

Above: (left foreground) Roger Cox

Other countries that have hosted the sheep shearing World Championships have been:

  • New Zealand (3 times)
  • England (3 times)

Above: Flag of England

  • Australia (twice)
  • Wales
  • Ireland
  • Scotland

Above: Flag of Scotland

  • South Africa
  • Norway

Above: Flag of Norway

Out of 13 World Championships, New Zealand have won the team machine contest ten times.

Famous New Zealand sheep-shearer David Fagan has been World Champion a record five times.

Above: David Fagan (middle foreground)

In October 2008 the event was hosted in Norway.

It was the first time ever that the event was hosted by a non-English speaking country.

Above: Coat of arms of Norway

The newly crowned World Machine Shearing champion is Paul Avery from New Zealand.

New Zealand also won the team event.

Above: Paul Avery

The traditional blade-shears World Champion is Ziewilelle Hans from South Africa.

A record 29 countries competed at the 2008 event.

World Blade Shearing has been dominated by South African and Lesotho shearers, Fine Wool machine shearing dominated by Australian shearers, and New Zealand dominating the Strong Wool machine shearing.)

Today large flocks of sheep are mustered, inspected and possibly treated for parasites, such as lice, before shearing can start. then shorn by professional shearing teams working eight-hour days, most often in spring, by machine shearing.

These contract-teams consist of shearers, shed hands and a cook (in the more isolated areas).

Their working hours and wages are regulated by industry awards.

A working day starts at 0730 and the day is divided into four “runs” of two hours each.

Smoko” breaks are a half-hour each and a lunch break is taken at midday for one hour.

Most shearers are paid on a piece-rate per sheep.

Shearers who “tally” more than 200 sheep per day are known as “gun shearers“.

Typical mass shearing of sheep today follows a well-defined workflow:

  • remove the wool
  • throw the fleece onto the wool table
  • skirt, roll and class the fleece
  • place it in the appropriate wool bin
  • press and store the wool until it is transported.

In 1984, Australia became the last country in the world to permit the use of wide combs, due to previous Australian Workers’ Union rules.

Although they were once rare in sheds, women now take a large part in the shearing industry by working as pressers, wool rollers, rouseabouts, wool classers and shearers.

A sheep is caught by the shearer, from the catching pen, and taken to his “stand” on the shearing board.

It is usually shorn using a mechanical handpiece.

(Whatever device is used, shearers must be careful to keep it clean so as to prevent the spread of disease amongst a flock.

Blade shearing has recently made a resurgence in Australia and the UK but mostly for sport rather than commercial shearing.

Some competitions have attracted almost 30 competitors and there have even been shows created just for blade shearers to compete in.

Blade shears consist of two blades arranged similarly to scissors except that the hinge is at the end farthest from the point (not in the middle).

The cutting edges pass each other as the shearer squeezes them together and shear the wool close to the animal’s skin.

Blade shears are still used today but in a more limited way.

Blade shears leave some wool on a sheep and this is more suitable for cold climates, such as the Canterbury high country in the South Island of New Zealand where approximately half a million sheep are still shorn with blade shears each year.

Above: New Zealand

For those areas where no powered-machinery is available blade shears are the only option.

In Australia, blades are more commonly used to shear stud rams.

Above: Coat of arms of Australia

Machine shears, known as handpieces, operate in a similar manner to human hair clippers in that a power-driven toothed blade, known as a cutter, is driven back and forth over the surface of a comb and the wool is cut from the animal.

The original machine shears were powered by a fixed hand-crank linked to the handpiece by a shaft with only two universal joints, which afforded a very limited range of motion.

Later models have more joints to allow easier positioning of the handpiece on the animal.

Electric motors on each stand have generally replaced overhead gear for driving the handpieces.

The jointed arm is replaced in many instances with a flexible shaft.

Smaller motors allowed the production of shears in which the motor is in the handpiece.

These are generally not used by professional shearers as the weight of the motor and the heat generated by it becomes bothersome with long use.)

The wool is removed by following an efficient set of movements, devised by Godfrey Bowen in about 1950 (the Bowen Technique) or the Tally-Hi method developed in 1963 and promoted by the Australian Wool Corporation.

Above: NZ farmer / world-acclaimed sheep shearer Godfrey Bowen (1922 – 1994)

Sheep struggle less using the Tally-Hi method, reducing strain on the shearer and there is a saving of about 30 seconds in shearing each one.

The shearer begins by removing the belly wool, which is separated from the main fleece by a rouseabout, while the sheep is still being shorn.

A professional or “gun” shearer typically removes a fleece, without significantly marking or cutting the sheep, in two to three minutes, depending on the size and condition of the sheep — less than two minutes in elite competitive shearing.

The shorn sheep is released and removed from the board via a chute in the floor or in a wall, to an exterior counting-out pen.

The CSIRO (Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization) in Australia has developed a non-mechanical method of shearing sheep using an injected protein that creates a natural break in the wool fibres.

After fitting a retaining net to enclose the wool, sheep are injected with the protein.

When the net is removed after a week, the fleece has separated and is removed by hand. 

In some breeds a similar process occurs naturally

Once the entire fleece has been removed from the sheep, the fleece is thrown, clean side down, on to a wool table by a shed hand (commonly known in New Zealand and Australian sheds as a rouseabout or rousie).

The wool table top consists of slats spaced approximately 12 cm apart.

This enables short pieces of wool, the locks and other debris, to gather beneath the table separately from the fleece.

The fleece is then skirted by one or more wool rollers to remove the sweat fribs and other less desirable parts of the fleece.

The removed pieces largely consist of shorter, seeded, burry or dusty wool etc. which is still useful in the industry.

As such they are placed in separate containers and sold along with fleece wool.

Other items removed from the fleece on the table, such as faeces, skin fragments or twigs and leaves, are discarded a short distance from the wool table so as not to contaminate the wool and fleece.

Above: Throwing a fleece onto a wool table

Following the skirting of the fleece, it is folded, rolled and examined for its quality in a process known as wool classing, which is performed by a registered and qualified wool classer.

Based on its type, the fleece is placed into the relevant wool bin ready to be pressed (mechanically compressed) when there is sufficient wool to make a wool bale.

Above: Wool sorting bins

In some primitive sheep (for example in the Shetlands), there is a natural break in the growth of the wool in spring.

By late spring this causes the fleece to begin to peel away from the body, and it may then be plucked by hand without cutting – this is known as rooing.

Individual sheep may reach this stage at slightly different times.

Above: Shetland sheep

Animal welfare organizations have raised concerns about the abuse of sheep during shearing, and have advocated against the selling and buying of wool products.

Sheep shearers are paid by the number of sheep shorn, not by the hour, and there are no requirements for formal training or accreditation.

Because of this it is alleged that speed is prioritised over precision and care of the animal.

In 2013, an anonymous shearer reported instances of animal abuse by workers, an allegation to which an Australian Worker’s Union representative added that he had witnessed “shearers gouge eyes and break sheep jaws.”

Australian Wool Innovation insisted that animal welfare was a priority among shearers. 

The following year, the RSPCA (Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) began a cruelty investigation following the release of video footage that PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) said was taken in more than a dozen shearing sheds in New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia. 

Above: Logo of the RSPCA (Australia)

The Guardian reported that the video showed “sheep being roughly handled, punched in the face and stamped upon.

One sheep was beaten with a hammer while another was shown having a deep cut crudely sewn up.

The Shearing Contractors Association of Australia “applauded” the investigation.

Wool Producers Australia President Geoff Fisken said the behavior shown in the video was “unacceptable and unsupportable“, but that “we’re sure it doesn’t portray the 99.9% majority of wool shearers – and those shearers would be appalled by it as well“.

More recent footage and images of Australian workers abusing sheep have been released by anonymous sources, some of which was included in Dominion, a recent Australian documentary on animal farm abuses.

No comment has been made about this by the Shearing Contractors Association of Australia.

A culture has evolved out of the practice of sheep shearing, especially in post-colonial Australia and New Zealand.

The sheep-shearing feast is the setting for Act IV of William Shakespeare’s A Winter’s Tale

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

Thomas Tusser provides doggerel verse for the occasion:

Wife make us a dinner, spare flesh neither corne,
Make wafers and cakes, for our sheepe must be shorne,
At sheep shearing neighbors none other thing craue,
but good cheer and welcome, like neighbors to haue

Above: Thomas Tusser (1524 – 1580)

The expression that Australia’s wealth rode on the sheep’s back in parts of the 20th century no longer has the currency it once had.

Above: Jason returns with the Golden Fleece

The Golden Fleece, originally known as Shearing at Newstead, is an 1894 painting by the Australian artist Tom Roberts.

The painting depicts sheep shearers plying their trade in a timber shearing shed at Newstead North, a sheep station near Inverell on the Northern Tablelands of New South Wales.

Above: Tom Roberts’ The Golden Fleece, 1894

The same shed is depicted in another of Roberts’ works, Shearing Shed, Newstead (1894).

Above: Tom Roberts’ Shearing shed, Newstead, 1894

The painting was originally titled Shearing at Newstead, but was renamed The Golden Fleece after the Golden Fleece of Greek mythology to honour the wool industry and the nobility of the shearers.

This was in keeping with Roberts’ conscious idealisation of the Australian pastoral worker and landscape.

Above: Tom Roberts (1856 – 1931)

The painting, said to be “an icon of Australian art“, is part of the collection of the Art Gallery of New South Wales.

Above: Art Gallery of New South Wales, The Domain, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

During Australia’s long weekend in June 2010, 111 machine shearers and 78 blade shearers shorn 6,000 Merino ewes and 178 rams at the historic 72-stand North Tuppal station.

Above: North Tuppal Station, Tocumwal, New South Wales, Australia

Along with the shearers there were 107 wool handlers and penners-up and more than 10,000 visitors to witness this event in the restored shed.

Many stations across Australia no longer carry sheep due to lower wool prices, drought and other disasters, but their shearing sheds remain, in a wide variety of materials and styles, and have been the subject of books and documentation for heritage authorities.

Some farmers are reluctant to remove either the equipment or the sheds, and many unused sheds remain intact.

Australia’s sheep shearers have long been celebrated in verse and art as the hard men of the country’s inland, but now they are fleeing because the animals have grown too big.

The pursuit of a crossbreed with both a full fleece of wool and that can then be sold for meat has created sheep almost double the weight they were 35 years ago.

As a result, battered shearers are deserting in droves.

Of more than 4,000 wool handlers trained in 2019, fewer than half have stayed in the job, according to Australian Wool Innovation, the industry body.

When I started shearing in the late Eighties, you had to be careful with merino ewes so you didn’t break their front legs while handling them.“, Phil Rourke, a veteran shearer said.

But now the average merino ewe is so heavy and strong that you can’t even tip it without busting your guts.

Rourke’s view that sheep are growing to an unmanageable size is echoed by shearers’ associations and livestock specialists.

Jason Letchford, Secretary of the Shearing Contractors Association of Australia, said that farmers faced the prospect of being without hundreds of shearers for the coming season.

It is absolutely a concern for us at the moment.“, Letchford told The Land newspaper.

We have got a national flock of 68 million sheep, so you are talking about 10% of the nation’s sheep that won’t be shorn by the workforce we would normally have here to do them.”

Glenn Haynes, the Association’s Executive Officer, said the size of sheep was the biggest reason young people gave up.

Some even leave within a couple of weeks.“, he added.

The notion that Australia’s shearers might one day be scared off by sheep would have been unimaginable to the impressionist Tom Roberts, whose celebrated 1890 work “Shearing the Rams” depicted the strapping shearers behind the wool boom.

The much-loved bush song “Click Go the Shears“, which appeared a year later, also romanced their life.

In 1985, the average weight of a Dorset ewe in Australia was 55kg, but by 2015 it has increased to 90kg.

Rourke said that during the busy season he woke up unable to feel his arms.

You are getting the daylights kicked out of you all day.”

Approximately 90% of the world’s sheep produce wool.

One sheep produces anywhere from 2 to 30 pounds of wool annually.

The wool from one sheep is called a fleece.

From many sheep, a clip.

The amount of wool that a sheep produces depends upon its breed, genetics, nutrition and shearing interval.

Lambs produce less wool than mature animals.

Due to their larger size, rams usually produce more wool than ewes of the same breed or type.

Long wool sheep usually produce the heaviest fleeces because their fibers, though coarser, grow the longest.

Hand spinners tend to prefer wool from the long wool breeds because it is easier to spin.

Some sheep produce very coarse fibers.

This type of wool is called carpet wool, and as the name suggests is used to make carpets and tapestries.

According to the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO), 41% of world wool production is classified as coarse wools.

Above: Coarse wool ewes

Medium wool sheep, raised more for meat than fiber, produce the lightest weight, least valuable fleeces.

Medium wool is usually made into blankets, sweaters, or socks or it is felted.

According to the IWTO, 22% of world wool production is classified as medium wools.

Above: Medium wool ewes

Fine wool sheep produce fleeces which usually have the greatest value due to their smaller fiber diameter and versatility of use.

Garments made from fine wool are less likely to itch.

According to the IWTO, 37% of world wool production is classified as fine wools.

Above: Fine wool rams

Hair sheep shed their coats and produce no usable fibers.

The “fleeces” from hair sheep and hair x wool crosses should be discarded.

Their inclusion in a wool clip can contaminate the entire clip.

Even raising wool sheep along side hair sheep or other shedding animals could potentially affect fleece quality of the wooled sheep.

Hair will not accept dye.

Above: Fleeces

The value of wool is based on its suitability for specific end uses, as well as the fundamentals of the world wool market.

Raw wool is usually purchased on the basis of grade.

Grade denotes the average fiber diameter and length of individual fibers.

The grade (or price) is reduced if the wool is dirty and contains a lot of vegetable matter or other contaminants.

Above: Learning to grade wool

In the commercial market, white wool is more valuable than coloured wool because it can be dyed any colour.

Even the wool from sheep with white faces is more valuable than the wool from sheep with dark or moddled faces because the fleeces from non-white face sheep may contain coloured wool or hairs which cannot be dyed.

In contrast, naturally-colored wools are often favoured in the niche markets.

Large producers of wool usually sell their wools to warehouses or directly to wool mills.

Sometimes the wool is sold on a clean (scoured) basis with the lower quality belly wool being removed from the clip.

Small producers usually sell (raw) through wool pools.

A wool pool is a collection point for wool from many producers.

At the pool, wool is sorted and packaged into different lots.

The entire pool is sold to one mill, often via silent bid.

Above: Wool at a wool mill

Some producers sell their wool to hand spinners or have it made into yarn or blankets.

When prices are low, some producers throw their wool away or give it to their shearer.

Above: Unloading wool at the wool pool

In 2019, the average price paid for wool sold in the United States was $1.89 per pound (grease) for a total value of $45.4 million.

In 2019, 24 million pounds of wool was harvested from 3.32 million head of sheep and lambs.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

The average fleece weight was 7.2 pounds (3.27 kg), compared to almost 10 lbs. (4.5 kg) in Australia.

Above: Australia

In the US, Nevada sheep boasted the heaviest fleece weights: 9.2 lbs. in 2019.

Above: Flag of Nevada

Sheep producers can get more money for their wool if they direct market it to hand spinners or add value to it.

In niche markets, there is no upper limit as to what wool can sell for.

Above: Wool buyers’ room at a wool auction, Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia

Wool is a freely-traded international commodity, subject to global supply and demand.

While wool represents only 3% of world fiber production, it is important to the economy and way of life in many countries.

Above: Wool garments

Though China is the largest producer of wool, Australia dominates the world wool market.

China is the largest wool buyer.

Above: Flag of China

The United States accounts for less than 1% of the world’s wool production and is a net importer of wool.

In the US, the top states for wool production are California, Colorado, Wyoming and Utah.

Above: Flag of California

Above: Flag of Colorado

Above: Flag of Wyoming

Above: Flag of Utah

Most people know that wool comes from sheep, but how it transforms from a sheep’s fluffy coat to material that is ready to be worn is a journey.

Wool goes through a multi-step process to clean it, regularize it, and transform it into soft yarn.

Although machinery can make the process much faster today, in most ways the process is the same as how people have been preparing wool for centuries.

Above: Sjolingstad Woolen Mill Museum, Norway

Every year, at the end of winter, sheep farmers shear their sheep, using an electric tool similar to a razor that removes all of the sheep’s fleece in one piece.

A single sheep’s annual fleece can weigh over 8 kilos, although most are around 3 – 4 kilos.

When done with care, shearing doesn’t harm the sheep.

Shearing leaves them with a thin, cool coat for the summer months.

Without shearing, the sheep’s fleece can severally overgrow, such as the famous case of “Shrek the Sheep”.

Above: Shrek the sheep

(Shrek (27 November 1994 – 6 June 2011) was a Merino wether (castrated male sheep) belonging to Bendigo Station, a sheep station near Tarras, New Zealand, who gained international fame in 2004, after he avoided being caught and shorn for six years.

Above: Bendigo Station, Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand

Merinos are normally shorn annually, but Shrek apparently hid in caves, avoiding muster (round-up).

He was named after the fictional ogre in books and films of the same name.

Above: Shrek the ogre

After finally being caught on 15 April 2004, the wether was shorn by a professional in 20 minutes on 28 April.

The shearing was broadcast on national television in New Zealand.

Above: Coat of arms of New Zealand

His fleece contained enough wool to make 20 large men’s suits, weighing 27 kg (60 lb) – an average Merino fleece weighs around 4.5 kg (10 lb), with exceptional weights up to around 15 kg (33 lb).

Shrek became a national icon.

He was taken to Parliament to meet New Zealand Prime Minister Helen Clark, in May 2004, to celebrate his 10th birthday.

Above: Helen Clark

In November 2006, 30 months after his initial shearing, Shrek was shorn again, on an iceberg floating off the coast of Dunedin, New Zealand.

Shrek was euthanized on 6 June 2011 on a veterinarian’s advice.

He was 16.)

Above: Shrek, 2009

The wool is then sorted and prepared for cleaning.

A simple step of washing the wool with removes dirt, other contaminants, and natural oils from the wool.

Some of these by-products of cleaning the wool get used for other purposes.

Lanolin, a wax secreted by sheep that helps to protect their wool, is included in many beauty products such as skin moisturizer.

Above: Tins of wool fat, Centre touristique de la Laine et de la Mode, Verviers, Belgium

Next, the wool fibers go through carding, a process that pulls them through fine metal teeth.

Sheep wool is naturally curly.

Carding straightens out the fibers and makes them soft and fluffy.

Originally, carding would be done by hand using two metal combs.

Today, most manufacturers use machines to card large batches of wool more quickly.

By the end of carding, the wool fibers are lined up into a thin, flat piece.

These sheets can then be drawn into long, thin pieces called rovings.

Spinning turns the wool pieces into a material that is usable.

Spinning uses a wheel to spin 2 – 5 strands of wool together.

This forms long, strong pieces of wool that you would recognize as yarn.

Different processes create different kinds of yarn that work for distinct final products.

Worsted spinning, for example, makes a smooth, thin yarn that’s perfect for suits and other garments made with the finer material.

Woolen spinning, on the other hand, makes a thicker yarn that is perfect for knitting.

Some wool yarn is sold directly to consumers, who use it to craft handmade scarves, sweaters and other clothing.

Other yarn forms the raw material for all kinds of wool products, from shoes to coats.

It is woven into pieces of fabric that are ready to be shaped by fashion designers.

Wool quickly absorbs water, which makes it very easy to dye.

It can be dyed at almost any stage of the process, depending on what the final product will be.

Simply submerging the wool into boiling water with the dye material, or applying colorful dyes directly to the fabric, produces the desired colour.

The process of transforming a sheep’s fleece into soft and cozy wool is truly an art form that needs to be carefully managed.

Although the process can be time-consuming, the end product carries many natural benefits. 

Domestication is when an organism is trained or adapted to live with people.

Domestication often changes the appearance and behavior of the organism.

While dogs were the first animal to be domesticated, sheep and goats are tied for second and are the first animals to be domesticated for agricultural purposes.

They were domesticated over 10,000 years ago.

Life expectancy is how long an organism is expected to live.

Typically, the life expectancy of an animal increases with size.

For example, cows usually live longer than sheep.

The life expectancy of sheep is similar to large breeds of dogs, about 10 to 12 years.

Some breeds are known for being longer-lived, e.g. Merino.

According to the Guinness Book of World Records, the oldest sheep lived to be 23.

She was a Merino.

However, the length of a sheep’s productive lifetime tends to be much less.

This is because a ewe’s productivity usually peaks between 3 and 6 years of age and begins to decline after the age of 7.

As a result, most ewes are removed from a flock before they would reach their natural life expectancy.

It is also necessary to get rid of older ewes in order to make room for younger ones.

The younger animals are usually genetically superior to the older ones.

In harsh environments (e.g. where forage is sparse), ewes are usually culled at a younger age because once their teeth start to wear and break down, it becomes more difficult for them to maintain their body condition and consume enough forage to feed their babies.

It is possible for a ewe to be productive past 10 years of age, if she is well-fed and managed and stays healthy and sound.

The approximate age of a sheep can be determined by examining their upper incisor teeth.

At birth, lambs have eight baby (or milk) teeth or temporary incisors arranged on their lower jaw.

They don’t have any teeth on their top jaw, only a dental pad.

At approximately one year of age, the central pair of baby teeth is replaced by a pair of permanent incisors.

At age 2, the second pair is replaced by permanent incisors.

At 3 and 4 years, the third and fourth pairs of baby teeth are replaced.

At approximately four years of age, a sheep has a full mouth of teeth.

As it ages past four, the incisor teeth will start to spread, wear, and eventually break.

When a ewe has lost some of her teeth, she’s called a “broken mouth” ewe.

When she’s lost all her teeth, she’s called a “gummer“.

A sheep with no incisor teeth can still survive because it uses mostly its molars for chewing feed.

However, it will have a harder time grazing, especially short vegetation.

A sheep that has rolled over onto its back is called a “cast” sheep.

It may not be able to get up without assistance.

This happens most commonly with short, stocky sheep with full fleeces on flat terrain.

Heavily pregnant ewes are most prone.

Cast sheep can become distressed and die within a short period of time if they are not rolled back into a normal position.

When back on their feet, they may need supported for a few minutes to ensure they are steady.

Vital signs are measures of various physiological statistics.

A sheep’s vital signs can help determine if it is sick or in distress.

The average body temperature of a healthy sheep is 102° – 103° Fahrenheit, with a heart rate of 60 to 90 beats per minute and a respiration rate of 12 to 20 breaths a minute.

Sheep are a prey animal.

When they are faced with danger, their natural instinct is to flee not fight.

Their strategy is to use avoidance and rapid flight to avoid being eaten.

Some primitive sheep breeds may be able to more effectively evade predators, as their natural instincts are stronger.

Domesticated sheep have come to rely on man for protection from predators.

After fleeing, sheep will reform their group and look at the predator.

They use their natural herding instinct to band together for safety.

A sheep that is by itself is vulnerable to attack.

Sheep tracks are never straight.

The winding of trails allows sheep to observe their backside first with one eye, then the other.

Sheep can spot dogs or other perceived forms of danger from 1,200 to 1,500 yards away.

Sheep have excellent senses.

Their wide angle of vision allows them to see predators.

They can direct their ears to the direction of sound.

They are very sensitive to what different predators smell like.

Sheep have an amazing tolerance for pain.

They do not show pain, because if they do, they will be more vulnerable to predators who look for those who are weak or injured.

The easiest way to tell the difference between a sheep and a goat is to look at their tails.

A goat’s tail goes up (unless it is sick, frightened or in distress.

A sheep’s tail hangs down and is often docked (shortened) for supposedly health and sanitary reasons.

Another big difference between a sheep and a goat is their foraging behaviour and diet selection.

Goats are natural browsers, preferring to eat leaves, twigs, vines and shrubs.

They are very agile and will stand on their hind legs to reach vegetation.

Goats like to eat the tops of plants.

Sheep are grazers, preferring to eat short tender grasses and clover.

Their dietary preference is forbs (broadleaf weeds) and they like to graze close to the soil surface.

Goats require and select a more nutritious diet.

Sheep and goats usually exhibit different behaviour.

Goats are naturally curious and independent, while sheep tend to be more distant and aloof.

Above: Pymgy goat, Fiesch, Valais, Switzerland

Sheep have a stronger flocking instinct and become very agitated if they are separated from the rest of the flock.

It is easier to keep sheep inside a fence than goats.

Sheep have a strong instinct to follow the sheep in front of them.

When one sheep decides to go somewhere, the rest of the flock usually follows, even if it is not a good “decision“.

For example, sheep will follow each other to slaughter.

If one sheep jumps over a cliff, the others are likely to follow.

Even from birth, lambs are conditioned to follow older members of the flock.

This instinct is “hard-wired” into sheep.

This is not something sheep “think” about.

There is a certain strain of sheep in Iceland known as leader sheep.

The Icelandic leader sheep is a separate line within the Icelandic breed of sheep.

Above: Flag of Iceland

As the name implies these sheep were leaders in their flocks.

The leadership ability runs in bloodlines and is equally in males and females.

Leader sheep are highly intelligent animals that have the ability and instinct to lead a flock home during difficult conditions.

Sheep of this strain have the ability, or instinct, to run in front of the flock, when it is driven home from the mountain pastures in autumn, from the sheep sheds to the winter pasture in the morning and back home in the evening, through heavy snowdrifts, over ice-covered ground, or across rivers.

Sometimes the leaders would take the whole flock of grazing sheep on winter pasture back to the farm, early in the day, if a blizzard was on its way.

They have an exceptional ability to sense danger.

There are many stories in Iceland of leader sheep saving many lives during the fall round-ups when blizzards threatened shepherds and flocks alike.

Sheep are gregarious.

They will usually stay in a group while grazing.

In fact, a sheep will become highly agitated if it is separated from the group.

It is the banding together in large groups which protects sheep from predators which will go after the outliers in the flock.

Sheep are a very social animal.

Animal behaviorists note that sheep require the presence of at least 4 or 5 sheep which, when grazing together, maintain a visual link to each other.

Flocking instinct is strongest in the fine wool breeds, but exists in all sheep breeds to some extent.

It is the sheep’s flocking instinct that allows sheep herders to look after and move large numbers of sheep and lambs.

Due to their strong flocking instinct and failure to act independently of one another, sheep have been universally branded “stupid“.

But sheep are not stupid.

Their only protection from predators is to band together and follow the sheep in front of them.

If a predator is threatening the flock, this is not the time to act independently.

At the same time, there is a growing body of evidence that sheep may actually possess some smarts.

Hungry sheep on the Yorkshire Moors (Great Britain) taught themselves to roll 8 feet (3 meters) across hoof-proof metal cattle grids to raid villagers’ valley gardens.

Above: North Yorkshire Moors, England

According to a witness:

They lie down on their side or sometimes their back and just roll over and over the grids until they are clear.

I’ve seen them doing it.

It is quite clever, but they are a big nuisance to the villagers.

[BBC News, July 2004]

A study of sheep psychology has found man’s woolly friend can remember the faces of more than 50 other sheep for up to two years.

They can even recognize a familiar human face.

The hidden talents of sheep revealed by a study in the journal Nature suggest they may be nearly as good as people at distinguishing faces in a crowd.

Researchers say:

Sheep form individual friendships with one another, which may last for a few weeks.

It’s possible they may think about a face even when it’s not there.

Researchers also found female sheep had a definite opinion about what made a ram’s face attractive.

According to researchers in Australia, sheep can learn and remember.

Researchers have developed a complex maze test to measure intelligence and learning in sheep, similar to those used for rats and mice.

Using the maze, researchers have concluded that sheep have excellent spatial memory and are able to learn and improve their performance.

And they can retain this information for a six-week period.

The maze uses the strong flocking instinct of sheep to motivate them to find their way through.

The time it initially takes an animal to rejoin its flock indicates smartness, while subsequent improvement in times over consecutive days of testing measures learning and memory.

Scientists at the University of Cambridge discovered that sheep have brain power to equal rodents, monkeys, and in some tests, humans.

They discovered the sheep “intelligence” while researching neurodegeneration, with a focus on Huntington’s disease, an inherited disorder that leads to nerve damage and dementia.

Above: Coat of arms of the University of Cambridge, England

The scientists put sheep through a set of challenges often given to humans suffering from Huntington’s.

The sheep showed that they had advanced learning capabilities, as they were able to navigate the challenges in the same way as humans and primates.

New research is suggesting that sick sheep could actually be smart enough to cure themselves.

Australian researchers believe that sick sheep may actually seek out plants that make them feel better.

There has been previous evidence to suggest that animals can detect what nutrients they are deficient in and can develop knowledge about which foods are beneficial or toxic.

Sheep are individuals, as are all the creatures great and small on the planet, however unnoticed, unstudied or unsung.

When we treat an animal as a pet, because of illness, accident or bereavement, it will exhibit great intelligence, a huge capacity for affection and an ability to adapt to unusual routines.

Perhaps everything boils down to the amount of time spent with any one animal.

Perhaps that is true of humans too.

Above: Cast of the BBC 1978 TV series All Creatures Great and Small
(left to right) Christopher Timothy (James Herriot), Robert Hardy (Siegfried Farnon), Peter Davison (Tristan Farnon), Mary Hignett (Helen Herriot) and Carol Drinkwater (Mrs. Edna Hall)

Animals are individuals.

Farmed animals are usually kept in large groups, but this does not mean that individuality disappears.

Their levels of intelligence vary, just as much as is true of humans.

No teacher ever expects, or wants, all his students in the classroom to be identical.

No one wants to create a society in which everyone wears the same clothes or shares the same hobbies.

Just because we are not clever enough to notice the differences between individual sheep is not a reason for presuming that there are none.

Animals and people can appear to lose their identities or become institutionalized if forced to live in unnaturally crowded, featureless regimented or boring conditions.

When this happens it is not proof that individuals are all the same or want to be treated as such.

We judge the comparative intelligence of different species by human standards.

Yet why should human criteria have any relevance to other species?

If an animal’s intelligence is sufficient to make it a success as that animal, what more could be desired?

Those who spend a lifetime observing animals witness amazing examples of logical, practical intelligence and some cases of outright stupidity.

Qualities also seen in human beings.

Animals merely get on with the day-to-day business of living, solving or failing to solve problems as they arise.

The important point is that animals should be given the wherewithal to succeed as animals, not as some inadequate servants of human beings.

Physical and mental development is affected by diet and freedom.

No one would expect a child to develop normally when kept in cramped unfriendly conditions, deprived of parents and siblings, with restricted exercise and the same diet everyday.

Yet many farmers and the government departments that inform them seem to expect farm animals to develop normally in such circumstances.

If you give animals the opportunity and time to choose between several alternatives, then they will choose what is best for them, and they will not all choose the same thing.

Goats will seek shelter more readily than sheep.

Neither species likes to get its feet wet and both prefer upland grazing to lowland.

In a fight, a ram will back up to charge and butt heads.

During confrontation, such fighting behaviour favours the ram.

Sheep and goats have numerous physical differences.

Most goats have hair coats that don’t require shearing or combing.

Most sheep grow wooly coats that need to be sheared at least once a year.

Sheep have an upper lip that is split by a distinct philtrum (groove).

The goat does not.

Male goats have glands beneath their tails.

Sheep have face or tear glands beneath their eyes and foot or scent glands between their toes.

Male goats develop a distinct odor as they reach sexual maturity.

The odor is very strong during the rutting (mating) season.

Most goats are naturally horned.

Some goats have beards.

Many breeds of sheep are naturally hornless (polled).

Some sheep have manes.

Tails are a natural part of sheep.

Lambs are born with tails.

The length of a lamb’s tail is usually half-way between the length of its mother’s tail and its father’s tail.

In fact, tail length is one of the most heritable traits in sheep.

Up to 84% of the variation in sheep tail length is due to genetics.

The purpose of the sheep’s tail is to protect the sheep’s anus, vulva, and udder from weather extremes.

Sheep lift their tails when they defecate and use their tails, to some extent, to scatter their feces.

Under modern sheep production systems, tails are usually docked (shortened) to prevent fecal matter from accumulating on the back side of the sheep, which can result in fly strike (wool maggots).

Left untreated, fly strike can be fatal, as the maggots eat away at the sheep’s flesh.

Tail docking also makes it easier to shear the sheep and process them for meat.

The tail does not interfere with breeding or lambing.

There are different methods that can be used to dock the tails of lambs.

The most common method is to put a rubber band (ring) around the tail.

When this method is used, it is recommended that lambs be docked at a young age (1 to 7 days) to minimize the stress and pain experienced by the lamb.

The dock (tail) should be left long enough to cover the ewe’s vulva and ram’s anus.

Short tail docks may contribute to the incidence of rectal prolapses.

While some animal activists claim that tail docking is an inhumane practice made necessary by modern production practices, this claim is simply untrue.

When done properly, tail docking is not inhumane.

While it causes some pain, it does not affect the health or growth of the lamb.

Tail docking is done to protect the health and hygiene of sheep and lambs.

Liquid feces (diarrhea) can occur in all production systems, thus, putting the sheep at risk for flystrike.

I strongly disagree with this practice.

The mutilation of animals has its roots in propaganda, custom and thoughtless adherence to tradition, which cannot be justified on any grounds.

If lambs’ tails get dirty, the cause needs to be addressed.

It is NOT a solution to cut off their tails.

Sheep are over one year of age.

They usually produce offspring.

Lambs are less than one year of age.

They usually do not produce offspring.

A yearling is an animal between 1 and 2 years of age that may or may not have produced offspring.

In other countries, a yearling ewe is called a hogget, shearling, gimmer, theave or teg.

Lamb is also the term for the flesh of a young domestic sheep eaten as food.

Above: Shoulder of lamb

The meat from a sheep that is older than 12 months is called mutton.

Yearling mutton is the meat from a sheep between 1 and 2 years of age.

Mutton has a much stronger flavour than lamb.

Above: Mutton steak

An abattoir is a building where animals are slaughtered and processed into meat products.

It comes from the French word, abattre, “to strike down“.

Above: Lovis Corinth’s In the slaughterhouse, 1893



A female sheep is called a ewe.

Yoe is a slang term for ewe.

A young female is called a ewe lamb.

The process of giving birth to lambs is called lambing.

Another word for birthing is parturition.

Another word for pregnancy is gestation.

A male sheep is called a ram.

Buck is the slang term for ram.

A young male is called a ram lamb.

In parts of the United Kingdom, a ram is called a tup and the mating season is called tupping.

A castrated male sheep is called a wether.

Wethers are less aggressive than rams.

A group of sheep is called a flock.

Larger groups of sheep are called bands or mobs.

A shepherd is a person who cares for sheep.

A sheepherder is a herder of sheep (on open range).

It is someone who keeps the sheep together in a flock.

In the US, the sheepherder is not usually the owner of the sheep.

A farm is an area of land, including various structures, devoted primarily to the practice of producing and managing food.

It usually includes cultivated land for producing crops.

A ranch is a farm consisting of a large tract of land along with facilities needed to raise livestock.

In 2014, it was estimated that 61,712 adult sheep and 132,683 lambs were killed by predators in the United States, costing farmers and ranchers almost $32.6 million.

In 2014, predation accounted for 28.1% of sheep losses and 36.4% of lamb losses.

Above: Fox

Coyotes were responsible for the majority of losses due to predation.

Above: Coyote

However, in terms of number of sheep operations affected, free-ranging or wild dogs may be the most common predator problem.

Some producers experience few or no problems with predators, while countless others battle the problem or have been driven out of the sheep business due to catastrophic losses.

Sheep have many natural predators: coyotes, wolves, foxes, bears, dogs, eagles, bobcats, etc.

Sheep are vulnerable to predators because they are basically defenseless and have no means of protecting themselves.

Above: Cougar

Each predator species has traits peculiar to it.

Coyotes typically attack sheep at the throat.

Above: Coyote attacking a lamb

Dogs are usually indiscriminate in how and where they attack.

Young or inexperienced coyotes may attack any part of the body as dogs would.

Coyotes, foxes, mountain lions and bobcats usually feed on a carcass at the flanks or behind the ribs and consume viscera, such as liver, heart and lungs.

Above: Bobcat

Bears usually prefer meat to viscera and often eat the udder of lactating ewes.

Above: Black bear

Eagles skin out carcasses and leave much of the skeleton intact on larger animals.

With lambs, eagles may bite off and swallow the ribs.

Above: Golden eagle

Smaller predators, such as coyotes, foxes and bobcats, select lambs over adult sheep.

Bears and mountain lions take adult sheep as well as lambs.

Coyotes, dogs, bears and mountain lions may kill more than one animal in a single episode, but often only one of the animals is fed upon.

Above: Sheep skull

While no technique is 100% effective, there are some techniques that shepherds can employ to protect their sheep from predators.

The most obvious way is to keep sheep and lambs safe by penning them at night or bedding them nearby.

Employ sheep herders will provide some protection from predators.

Certain types of fences (net and high-tensile electric) will aid in keeping predators out.

Fencing is particularly effective when incorporated with other methods of predator control, such as livestock guardians.

Livestock guardians are becoming increasingly popular with shepherds.

Three animals are used as livestock guardians:

  • dogs
  • llamas
  • donkeys

A dog generally stays with the sheep without harming them and aggressively repels predators.

Llamas and donkeys have an inherent dislike of dogs.

Above: Llama

In fact, any animal that displays aggressive behaviour to intruding predators may be a deterrent.

Above: Donkey

While some people may find lethal control methods (shooting, trapping, snaring, denning and poisoning) distasteful, sometimes they are the only method to remove individual predators, particularly those killing large numbers of sheep.

Because they are a prey animal, sheep require excellent senses to enhance their chances of survival in the wild.

Sheep depend heavily on their vision.

They have excellent peripheral vision and can see behind themselves without turning their heads.

However, they have poor depth perception.

They cannot see immediately in front of their noses.

Some vertical vision may also have been sacrificed in order to have a wider field of vision.

For example, it is doubtful that a sheep would be able to see something in a tree.

Contrary to previous thought, sheep and other livestock perceive colours, though their colour vision is not as well-developed as it is in humans.

Sheep will react with fear to new colours.

Sheep have excellent hearing.

They can direct their ears in the direction of a sound.

Sound arrives at each ear at slightly different times, with a small difference in amplitude.

Sheep are frightened by high-pitched and loud noises, such as barking dogs or firecrackers.

Sheep have an excellent sense of smell.

They are very sensitive to what different predators smell like.

Smell helps rams locate ewes in heat and ewes locate their lambs.

Sheep also use their sense of smell to locate water and determine subtle or major differences between feeds and pasture.

The sense of taste in sheep is probably not as important as the other senses.

However, sheep have the ability to differentiate different feedstuffs and taste may play a role in this ability.

When presented with a variety of feeds, sheep will select certain feeds over others.

Sheep will select different types and species of plants than other livestock.

Since the sheep’s body is covered with wool or coarse hair, only the nose, lips, mouth, and maybe ears readily lend themselves to touching behaviour.

However, touching is important to the interaction between sheep.

Lambs seek bodily contact with their mothers and the ewes respond to touching in many ways, including milk letdown in response to the nuzzling/suckling stimulus of lambs.

When young lambs sleep, they will seek out their mothers and lie close to them.

Making animals happy and allowing them to express their natural behavioural instincts is not just morally and ethically essential.

It also makes sound financial sense.

Happy animals grow faster.

Children under stress eat and sleep less well than those who are happy and relaxed.

Unhappy children develop real and imaginary ailments.

Stress can be reduced or eliminated by improving existing conditions.

A change of environment or diet, more understanding or love, all play their part.

It is the same with animals.

It is misplaced conceit to believe that any manmade environment can equal or better the natural one.

No artificially manufactured conditions can match the reassurance, stability, attention, companionship and appropriate food that nature provides.

Albert Einstein said that the only really valuable thing is intuition.

I believe that he was right.

Above: Albert Einstein (1879 – 1955)

Instinct and intuition are the most useful tools any living creature possesses.

We suppress instinct in animals and in children at a huge risk to the world.

Wherever the pursuit of maximum profit had led to intensification, it has been animals that have suffered most.

The Story of the Golden Fleece

Athamas the Minyan, a founder of Halos in Thessaly, but also the King of the city of Orchomenus in Boetia (a region of southeastern Greece), took the goddess Nephele as his first wife.

Above: John Flaxman’s The Fury of Athamas

Above: Remains of ancient Halos, Thessaly, Greece

Above: Ruins of the Acropolis of Orchomenus

Above: Punishment of Ixion: In the center is Mercury holding the caduceus. On the right is Juno on her throne, and behind her Iris stands and gestures. On the left is Vulcanus (blond figure) manning the wheel, with Ixion already tied to the wheel. Nephele sits at Mercury’s feet. Roman fresco from the eastern wall of the triclinium in the Casa dei Vettii (“House of the Vetii”) in Pompeii, Italy

They had two children, the boy Phrixus (whose name means “curly” as in the texture of the ram’s fleece) and the girl Helle.

Above: Helle and Phrixus, Fresco, Pompeii

Later Athamas became enamored of and married Ino, the daughter of Cadmus.

Above: Cadmus fighting the dragon, Louvre Museum, Paris, France

When Nephele left in anger, drought came upon the land.

Ino was jealous of her stepchildren and plotted their deaths.

In some versions, she persuaded Athamas that sacrificing Phrixus was the only way to end the drought.

Above: Statue of Ino, Cour Carrée, Palais du Louvre, Paris, France

Nephele, or her spirit, appeared to the children with a winged ram whose fleece was of gold.

The ram had been sired by Poseidon in his primitive ram-form upon Theophane, a nymph and the granddaughter of Helios, the sun god.

Above: Statue of Poseidon, National Archaeological Museum, Athens, Greece

Above: Theophane

Above: Helios, Fresco, Pompeii

According to the Latin author Hyginus (64 BCE – 17 CE), Poseidon carried Theophane to an island where he made her into a ewe so that he could have his way with her among the flocks.

There Theophane’s other suitors could not distinguish the ram-god and his consort.

Nephele’s children escaped on the yellow ram over the sea, but Helle fell off and drowned in the strait now named after her, the Hellespont.

The ram spoke to Phrixus, encouraging him and took the boy safely to Colchis (modern day Georgia), on the easternmost shore of the Euxine Sea (Black Sea).

In essence, this act returned the ram to the god Poseidon, and the ram became the constellation Aries.

Phrixus settled in the house of Aeetes, son of Helios the sun god.

Above: Bartolomeo di Giovanni’s King Aeetes, 1487

He hung the Golden Fleece preserved from the ram on an oak in a grove sacred to Ares, the god of war and one of the Twelve Olympians.

Above: Statue of Ares

Above: The Twelve Olympians igures from left to right are – Hestia (goddess of the hearth), with scepter; Hermes (messenger of the gods), with cap and staff; Aphrodite (goddess of love and beauty), with veil; Ares (god of war), with helmet and spear; Demeter (goddess of agriculture), with scepter and wheat sheaf; Hephaestus (god of fire and metal-working), with staff; Hera (queen of the gods), with scepter; Poseidon (god of the sea), with trident; Athena (goddess of wisdom and the arts), with owl and helmet; Zeus (king of the gods), with thunderbolt and staff; Artemis (goddess of the hunt and moon), with bow and quiver; and Apollo (god of the sun), with “kithara.”, Walters Art Museum, Baltimore, Maryland

The fleece was guarded by a never-sleeping dragon with teeth that could become soldiers when planted in the ground.

The dragon was at the foot of the tree on which the fleece was placed.

Pelias was power-hungry and sought to gain dominion over all of Thessaly.

Above: Map of ancient Thessaly

Pelias was the progeny of a union between their shared mother, Tyro (“high born Tyro“), the daughter of Salmoneus, and the sea god Poseidon.

In a bitter feud, he overthrew Aeson (the rightful king), killing all the descendants of Aeson that he could.

He spared his half-brother for unknown reasons.

Aeson’s wife Alcimede I had a newborn son named Jason whom she saved from Pelias by having female attendants cluster around the infant and cry as if he were stillborn.

Fearing that Pelias would eventually notice and kill her son, Alcimede sent him away to be reared by the centaur Chiron.

Above: Eugène Delacroix’s The Education of Achilles, Palais Bourbon, Paris, France

She claimed that she had been having an affair with him all along.

Pelias, fearing that his ill-gotten kingship might be challenged, consulted the Oracle, who warned him to beware of a man wearing only one sandal.

Above: John William Waterhouse’s Consulting the Oracle, 1884

Many years later, Pelias was holding games in honour of Poseidon when the grown Jason arrived in Iolcus, having lost one of his sandals in the River Anauros (“wintry Anauros“) while helping an old woman (actually the goddess Hera in disguise) to cross.

She blessed him, for she knew what Pelias had planned.

Above: Statue of Hera, Louvre Museum, Paris

When Jason entered Iolcus (present-day city of Volos), he was announced as a man wearing only one sandal.

Jason, aware that he was the rightful King, so informed Pelias.

Above: Pelias, King of Iolcos, stops on the steps of a temple as he recognises young Jason by his missing sandal, Roman fresco, Pompeii

Pelias replied:

“To take my throne, which you shall, you must go on a quest to find the Golden Fleece.”

Jason readily accepted this condition.

Above: Pelias (left) sends forth Jason (right), Stories from the Greek Tragedians, Alfred Church, 1879

Jason assembled for his crew, a number of heroes, known as the Argonauts after their ship, the Argo.

Above: Lorenzo Costa’s The Argo, 1500

Most accounts name the ship after her builder, Argus. 

Above: Argus building the Argo, with the help of Athena

Cicero (106 – 43 BCE) suggested that it was named after the “Argives“, a term commonly used by Homer for the Greek people of Argos. 

Above: Marble bust of Marcus Tullius Cicero, Prado Museum, Madrid, Spain

Above: View of modern Argos (Greece) as seen from the ancient theatre

Diodorus Siculus (90 – 30 BCE) reported that some thought the name was derived from an ancient Greek word for swift, which could have indicated that the ship was designed to move quickly.

Above: Fresco of Diodoro Siculus

The isle of Lemnos is situated off the Western coast of Asia Minor (modern day Turkey).

The island was inhabited by a race of women who had killed their husbands.

The women had neglected their worship of Aphrodite, and as a punishment the goddess made the women so foul in stench that their husbands could not bear to be near them.

Above: The isle of Lemnos as seen from space

The men then took concubines from the Thracian mainland opposite.

The spurned women, angry at Aphrodite, killed all the male inhabitants while they slept.

Above: Statue of Aphrodite, Baiae, Syracuse, Italy

The King, Thoas, was saved by Hypsipyle, his daughter, who put him out to sea sealed in a chest from which he was later rescued.

The women of Lemnos lived for a while without men, with Hypsipyle as their Queen.

Above: Hypsipyle saves Thoas

During the visit of the Argonauts the women mingled with the men creating a new “race” called Minyae.

Jason fathered twins with the Queen.

Heracles pressured them to leave as he was disgusted by the antics of the Argonauts.

He had not taken part, which is truly unusual considering the numerous affairs he had with other women.

Above: Francisco de Zurbarán’s Death of Heracles, 1634, Prado Museum, Madrid, Spain

After Lemnos, the Argonauts landed among the Doliones, whose King Cyzicus treated them graciously.

He told them about the land beyond Bear Mountain, but forgot to mention what lived there.

What lived in the land beyond Bear Mountain were the Gegeines, a tribe of six-armed Earthborn giants who wore leather loincloths.

Above: Gegeine, Nuremburg Chronicle, 1493

While most of the crew went into the forest to search for supplies, the Gegeines saw that few Argonauts were guarding the ship and raided it. 

Heracles was among those guarding the ship at the time and managed to kill most of them before Jason and the others returned.

Once some of the other Gegeines were killed, Jason and the Argonauts set sail.

Above: The Argo

The Argonauts departed, losing their bearings and landing again at the same spot that night.

In the darkness, the Doliones took them for enemies and they started fighting each other.

The Argonauts killed many of the Doliones, among them King Cyzicus.

Cyzicus’ wife killed herself.

The Argonauts realized their horrible mistake when dawn came and held a funeral for him.

Above: Bust of Cyzicus, Bandirma Museum, Turkey

Soon, Jason reached the court of Phineus of Salmydessus in Thrace. 

Zeus had sent the Harpies to steal the food put out for Phineus each day.

Jason took pity on the emaciated King and killed the Harpies when they returned.

In other versions, Calais and Zetes chase the Harpies away.

In return for this favour, Phineus revealed to Jason the location of Colchis and how to pass the Symplegades (or The Clashing Rocks) and then they parted.

Above: Phineas and the Harpies

The only way to reach Colchis was to sail through the Symplegades (Clashing Rocks), huge rock cliffs that came together and crushed anything that traveled between them.

Phineus told Jason to release a dove when they approached these Islands, and if the dove made it through, to row with all their might.

If the dove was crushed, he was doomed to fail.

Jason released the dove as advised, which made it through, losing only a few tail feathers.

Seeing this, they rowed strongly and made it through with minor damage at the extreme stern of the ship.

From that time on, the Clashing Rocks were forever joined leaving free passage for others to pass.

Above: Jason releases a dove at the Symplegades, Howard Davies illustration for Charles Kingsley’s The Heroes, 1900

Jason arrived in Colchis (modern Black Sea coast of Georgia) to claim the Fleece as his own.

It was owned by King Aeetes of Colchis.

The Fleece was given to him by Phrixus.

Aeetes promised to give it to Jason only if he could perform three certain tasks.

Presented with the tasks, Jason became discouraged and fell into depression.

Above: Jason and the Argonauts arriving at Colchis, Palais de Versailles, France

However, Hera had persuaded Aphrodite to convince her son Eros to make Aeetes’ daughter, Medea, fall in love with Jason.

As a result, Medea aided Jason in his tasks.

Above: Fresco of Medea, Herucaleum, Ercolano, Italy

First, Jason had to plow a field with fire-breathing oxen, the Khalkotauroi, that he had to yoke himself.

Medea provided an ointment that protected him from the oxen’s flames.

Above: Jean François de Troy’s Jason taming the Khalkotauri, 1743, Barber Institute of Fine Arts, Birmingham, England

Then, Jason sowed the teeth of a dragon into a field.

The teeth sprouted into an army of warriors (spartoi).

Medea had previously warned Jason of this and told him how to defeat this foe.

Before they attacked him, he threw a rock into the crowd.

Unable to discover where the rock had come from, the soldiers attacked and defeated one another.

Above: Leonard Thiry’s Jason ploughing the earth and sowing the dragon’s teeth, 1550

His last task was to overcome the sleepless dragon which guarded the Golden Fleece.

Jason sprayed the dragon with a potion, given by Medea, distilled from herbs.

Above: John William Waterhouse’s Jason and Medea, 1907

The dragon fell asleep, and Jason was able to seize the Golden Fleece.

In some versions of the story, Jason attempts to put the guard serpent to sleep.

The snake is coiled around a column at the base of which is a ram and on top of which is a bird.

Above: Jason and the Snake, Douris Cup, Vatican Museum

He then sailed away with Medea.

Medea distracted her father, who chased them as they fled, by killing her brother Apsyrtus and throwing pieces of his body into the sea.

Aeetes stopped to gather them.

Above: Herbert James Draper’s The Golden Fleece, 1904

In another version, Medea lured Apsyrtus into a trap.

Jason killed him, chopped off his fingers and toes, and buried the corpse.

In any case, Jason and Medea escaped.

Above: Leonard Thiry’s Aeetes Accepts the Dismembered Corpse of Absyrte, 1563, Yale University Art Gallery, New Haven, Connecticut

On the way back to Iolcus, Medea prophesied to Euphemus, the Argo‘s helmsman, that one day he would rule Cyrene.

This came true through Battus, a descendant of Euphemus. 

Above: Euphemus, DC Comics

Zeus, as punishment for the slaughter of Medea’s own brother, sent a series of storms at the Argo and blew it off course.

The Argo then spoke and said that they should seek purification with Circe, a nymph living on the island of Aeaea.

Above: Honor Blackman as Hera, Jason and the Argonauts (1963 movie) – Her face was used as a model for the head on the stern of the ship. The sacred oak of the ship is here represented as the head of a woman with partial extending wings making up the stern of the ship. The painted head is modeled on the goddess Hera in the movie and has the ability to speak to Jason throughout the movie. Argus, the ship builder, said he was inspired to add that feature to the boat when creating it. Filmmakers gave this head the practical effect of being able to open and close when speaking to Jason.

Above: John William Waterhouse’s Circe Offering the Cup to Odysseus

After being cleansed, they continued their journey home.

Above: Map of Italy with Aeaea marked south of Rome, Abraham Ortelius, 1624

Chiron had told Jason that without the aid of Orpheus, the Argonauts would never be able to pass the Sirens — the same Sirens encountered by Odysseus in Homer’s epic poem, the Odyssey.

The Sirens lived on three small, rocky islands called Sirenum scopuli and sang beautiful songs that enticed sailors to come to them, which resulted in the crashing of their ship into the Islands.

Above: Statue of moaning Siren, Myrina, Turkey

When Orpheus heard their voices, he drew his lyre and played music that was more beautiful and louder, drowning out the Sirens’ bewitching songs.

Above: Ancient Roman floor mosaic image of Orpheus, Museo archaeologico regionale di Palermo, Italy

The Argo then came to the Island of Crete, guarded by the bronze man, Talos.

Above: (in red) Location of Crete

As the ship approached, Talos hurled huge stones at the ship, keeping it at bay.

Above: Talos tossing a stone, Cretan silver didrachma, Cabinet des médailles, Paris, France

Talos had one blood vessel which went from his neck to his ankle, bound shut by only one bronze nail (as in metal casting by the lost wax method).

Medea cast a spell on Talos to calm him.

She removed the bronze nail and Talos bled to death.

The Argo was then able to sail on.

Above: The death of Talos depicted on a 5th century BCE krater (vase), Jatta National Archaeological Museum, Ruvo di Puglia, Italy

Thomas Bullfinch has an antecedent to the interaction of Medea and the daughters of Pelias.

Above: Thomas Bullfinch (1796 – 1867)

Jason, celebrating his return with the Golden Fleece, noted that his father was too aged and infirm to participate in the celebrations.

He had seen and been served by Medea’s magical powers.

He asked Medea to take some years from his life and add them to the life of his father.

She did so, but at no such cost to Jason’s life.

Medea withdrew the blood from Aeson’s body and infused it with certain herbs.

Putting it back into his veins, returning vigour to him.

Above: Medea rejuvenates Aeson

Pelias’ daughters saw this and wanted the same service for their father.

Medea, using her sorcery, claimed to Pelias’ daughters that she could make their father smooth and vigorous as a child by chopping him up into pieces and boiling the pieces in a cauldron of water and magical herbs.

She demonstrated this remarkable feat with the oldest ram in the flock, which leapt out of the cauldron as a lamb.

The girls, rather naively, sliced and diced their father and put him in the cauldron.

Medea did not add the magical herbs.

Pelias was dead. 

Above: Georges Moreau de Tours’ The Murder of Pelias by His Daughters, 1878

Pelias’ son, Acastus, drove Jason and Medea into exile for the murder.

The couple settled in Corinth.

Above: View of modern day Corinth, Greece

In Corinth, Jason became engaged to marry Creusa, a daughter of the King of Corinth, to strengthen his political ties.

When Medea confronted Jason about the engagement and cited all the help she had given him, he retorted that it was not she that he should thank, but Aphrodite who made Medea fall in love with him.

Infuriated with Jason for breaking his vow that he would be hers forever, Medea took her revenge by presenting to Creusa a cursed dress, as a wedding gift, that stuck to her body and burned her to death as soon as she put it on.

Above: Presents from Medea to Creusa, Lucanian red-figure bell-krater from Apulia, 390 BCE, Louvre Museum, Paris

Creusa’s father, Creon, burned to death with his daughter as he tried to save her.

Then Medea killed the two boys that she bore to Jason, fearing that they would be murdered or enslaved as a result of their mother’s actions.

Above: Medea murders one of her children, Campanian red-figure neck-amphora from Cumae, 330 BCE, Louvre Museum, Paris

When Jason came to know of this, Medea was already gone.

She fled to Athens in a chariot of dragons sent by her grandfather, the sun god Helios.

Above: Medea on her chariot of dragons, Cleveland Museum, Ohio

Although Jason calls Medea most hateful to gods and men, the fact that the chariot is given to her by Helios indicates that she still has the gods on her side.

As Bernard Knox points out, Medea’s last scene with concluding appearances parallels that of a number of indisputably divine beings in other plays by Euripides.

Just like these gods, Medea “interrupts and puts a stop to the violent action of the human being on the lower level, justifies her savage revenge on the grounds that she has been treated with disrespect and mockery, takes measures and gives orders for the burial of the dead, prophesies the future,” and “announces the foundation of a cult.”

Above: Bernard Knox (1914 – 2010)

Later Jason and Peleus, father of the hero Achilles, attacked and defeated Acastus, reclaiming the throne of Iolcus for himself once more.

Jason’s son, Thessalus, then became King.

As a result of breaking his vow to love Medea forever, Jason lost his favor with Hera and died lonely and unhappy.

He was asleep under the stern of the rotting Argo when it fell on him, killing him instantly.

Above: Jason and the Argo

Pindar (518 – 438 BCE) employed the quest for the Golden Fleece in his 4th Pythian Ode (written in 462 BC), though the Fleece is not in the foreground.

Above: Bust of Pindar, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples, Italy

When Aeetes challenges Jason to yoke the fire-breathing bulls, the Fleece is the prize:

Let the King do this, the captain of the ship!

Let him do this, I say, and have for his own the immortal coverlet, the fleece, glowing with matted skeins of gold.”

Above: Jason claims the Golden Fleece

Several euhemeristic attempts to interpret the Golden Fleece “realistically” as reflecting some physical cultural object or alleged historical practice have been made.

For example, in the 20th century, some scholars suggested that the story of the Golden Fleece signified the bringing of sheep husbandry to Greece from the east.

From Turkey?

In other readings, scholars theorized it referred to golden grain or to the sun.

A more widespread interpretation relates the myth of the fleece to a method of washing gold from streams, which was well attested (but only from c. 5th century BCE) in the region of Georgia to the east of the Black Sea.

Sheep fleeces, sometimes stretched over a wooden frame, would be submerged in the stream, and gold flecks borne down from upstream placer deposits would collect in them.

The fleeces would be hung in trees to dry before the gold was shaken or combed out.

Alternatively, the fleeces would be used on washing tables in alluvial mining of gold or on washing tables at deep gold mines.

Judging by the very early gold objects from a range of cultures, washing for gold is a very old human activity.

Strabo describes the way in which gold could be washed:

It is said that in their country gold is carried down by the mountain torrents, and that the barbarians obtain it by means of perforated troughs and fleecy skins, and that this is the origin of the myth of the Golden Fleece — unless they call them Iberians, by the same name as the western Iberians, from the gold mines in both countries.

Above: Strabo (64 BCE – 24 CE)

Another interpretation is based on the references in some versions to purple or purple-dyed cloth.

The purple dye extracted from the purple dye murex snail and related species was highly prized in ancient times.

Clothing made of cloth dyed with Tyrian purple was a mark of great wealth and high station (hence the phrase “royal purple“).

The association of gold with purple is natural and occurs frequently in literature.

Above: Purple-dyed fabric and the shells of the spiny dye murex sea snail

The following are the chief among the various interpretations of the Fleece:

  1. It represents royal power.
  2. It represents the flayed skin of Krios (‘Ram‘), companion of Phrixus.
  3. It represents a book on alchemy.
  4. It represents a technique of writing in gold on parchment.
  5. It represents a form of placer mining practiced in Georgia.
  6. It represents the forgiveness of the Gods.
  7. It represents a rain cloud.
  8. It represents a land of golden grain.
  9. It represents the spring-hero.
  10. It represents the sea reflecting the sun.
  11. It represents the gilded prow of Phrixus’ ship.
  12. It represents a breed of sheep in ancient Georgia.
  13. It represents the riches imported from the East.
  14. It represents the wealth or technology of Colchis.
  15. It was a covering for a cult image of Zeus in the form of a ram.
  16. It represents a fabric woven from sea silk.
  17. It is about a voyage from Greece, through the Mediterranean, across the Atlantic to the Americas.
  18. It represents trading fleece dyed murex-purple for Georgian gold.

Above: Jason claims the Golden Fleece

And what does it represent to me?

Sadness.

We live in a material world where man’s dominion over all other creatures great and small infers a need to exploit nature for possible profit.

The exploitation of the outdoors to improve our living conditions indoors.

We call sheep animals, thus negating the possibility that they possess feelings and intelligence and, maybe, souls, such as we humans lay claim.

Sheep can be very companionable and amazingly compassionate.

(Please refrain from sheep shagging jokes here, pundits.)

Sheep, like humans, can be highly intelligent and be very dim.

Sheep always run uphill if they sense danger.

Sheep are usually gentle and unaggressive.

Most sheep have long, wooly tails to keep them warm.

Sheep can live on grass alone, but like other things too such as tree leaves and apples.

A sheep’s thick coat protects it from heat and cold.

Sheep can stand very cold weather better than cows, pigs or hens.

Some sheep have good powers of concentration similar to that shown by humans engaged in watching television.

Sheep prefer running water to still water to drink.

Sheep have very long memories.

Sheep play almost continually when they are young.

Are sheep so unlike humans after all?

I am not suggesting we abandon the use or consumption of animals simply because we have created a system of animal husbandry that has grown dependent on this.

What I am suggesting is consideration and compassion towards all God’s creation of which we all are part of this symbiotic circle of life.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Emilie Kip Baker, Stories of Old Greece and Rome / Burak Coşan, “Turkish government set to distribute 300 sheep to every farmer“, Hürriyet Daily News, 14 February 2018 / Sibel Alapala Demirhan, “Sheep farming in Uşak, Turkey: Economic structure, problems and solutions“, Saudi Journal of Biological Studies, Volume 26, Issue 2, February 2016 / Bernard Logan, “Australian shearers pack it in over sheer size of sheep“, The Times, 8 September 2020 / Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows / http://www.baauki.com / http://www.sheep101.com

Canada Slim and the Pharmacy of the Soul

Eskişehir, Turkey, Monday 18 April 2022 AD (18 Nisan 5782 AM) (18 Ramadan 1443 AH) (18 Pasar 2022 CE)

Despite this being Easter Monday (Christian calendar), the 18th day of Nisan (Jewish Passover) and the 18th day of Ramadan, religion is not a divisive issue in this city.

Generally, some fast and others feast.

Some pray and others pass the time going about their lives as if this month is merely just one of twelve in the year.

Above: Praying hands, Albrecht Dürer

To know a person’s religion we need not listen to his profession of faith but must find his brand of tolerance.

Eric Hoffer (1902 – 1993)

It is easy to be dismissive of religion, the pomp and pagentry, the ceremony and sanctimony, the folks that violate the tenets of faith in the name of that faith.

It is easy to dismiss the possibility of God whose only true proof of existence is our inability to disprove His existence.

And yet despite the faithless, despite the hypocrisy of some, despite the death, deceit and destruction committed in His Name by those unrecognizable as believers despite the masks they wear, I cannot but acknowledge the true purpose of faith, the real reason for religion, which is encapsulated in one single solitary word:

Hope.

We hope that our lives have meaning.

We hope that the pain and sorrow and suffering may lead to dignity.

We hope that we are not alone in this valley of the shadow of death.

We hope that death has meaning beyond ourselves, in spite of ourselves.

We hope that those who harm and hurt and harass others will be meted that which they dealt.

We hope that the love we shared with others will sustain us, perhaps even beyond this mortal coil.

Of the three Abrahamic religions, Judaism offers an eternal Promised Land, Islam suggests that a good person leaves behind a legacy of continuing charity and an inheritance of knowledge and a testament of righteous offspring worthy of the name, and Christianity suggests that there is a promise of an afterlife and that resurrection beyond longevity is possible.

We hope our lives have meaning.

We hope our deaths can be faced with dignity and daring.

We hope that who we are was not for naught.

And for all its flaws, for all its phonies, for all its unclarity and uncertainty and a myriad of interpretations, religion, faith, in ourselves, in desperate quest of destinies too wonderful for dreams, faith gives us all the only thing that matters:

Hope.

When you’ve fallen on the highway
And you’re lying in the rain,
And they ask you how you’re doing
Of course you’ll say you can’t complain
If you’re squeezed for information,
That’s when you’ve got to play it dumb
You just say you’re out there waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

Waiting for the Miracle“, Leonard Cohen (1934 – 2016)

I never want to be a man who steals hope.

That being said, how can anyone, such as I, sitting on the outside, possibly understand the deeper meaning of the reality of a religion if they have not personally lived it?

The answer, I have been assured by believers I have known, is personal.

Their moment of realization is beyond words.

Faith, by its very nature, is elusive.

Talk to me about the truth of religion and I will listen gladly.

Talk to me about the duty of religion and I will listen submissively.

But don’t come talking to me about the consolations of religion or I shall suspect that you don’t understand.

C. S. Lewis

Above: Clive Staples Lewis (1898 – 1963)

Here in Eskişehir, Turkey is celebrating Ramadan, a month of fasting, prayer, reflection and community.

In a religious life where faith, politics and culture are arguably more inextricably linked in any other religion, there are bound to be differences of opinion and controversial beliefs.

Essential truths can be either vaguely known, interpreted variously or just plain misunderstood.

Above: Halisi Cami (mosque), Eskişehir, Turkey

There is no reason to bring religion into it.

I think we ought to have as great a regard for religion as we can, so as to keep it out of as many things as possible.

Sean O’Casey

Above: Sean O’Casey (1880 – 1964)

The closest I have come to understanding faith in 2022 has been visits to St. Gallen, where today “half-assed Christians” (a term coined by a Catholic priest I once knew) will, for the first of only two annual visits to church – the other occasion being Christmas – will commemorate events two millennia past of a man who claimed to be the Son of God, preached and did all manner of miracles, was crucified as an enemy of the state, was resurrected and ascended to Heaven and will one day return to save the chosen few.

It is a nice story, difficult to prove, difficult to disprove.

It is a question of faith.

What do you choose to believe?

Above: Latin cross, a symbol of Christianity

It is in St. Gallen (among other places) where my faith – such as it is – finds its foundation, a harmony to my heart.

But this post is less a glorification of God as it is a monument to man, for much of the past decade found me working in St. Gallen and it is the people I have known there (and elsewhere) that have given me faith in humanity.

Perhaps the time has come to finally express my gratitude and to sing praises.

Above: Aerial view of St. Gallen, Switzerland

Sometimes I wonder if the manner in which Christianity was introduced to Switzerland is the reason why some Swiss view other faiths as so threatening to the fabric of Swiss life.

St. Gallen’s past may be a prime example of why the Swiss fear other religions following the examples of history.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Religion to me has always been the wound, not the bandage.”

Dennis Potter

Above: Dennis Potter (1935 – 1994)

The main urban centre of eastern Switzerland, St. Gallen has been described as “a relaxed provincial city set amid rolling countryside between the Appenzell hills and the Lake of Constance (Bodensee), with a beautiful old quarter“.

I agree with this description save for one word:

Relaxed.

Above: Klosterviertel (cloister quarter), Altstadt (old city), St. Gallen, Switzerland

I lived in Switzerland for a decade and much of that period was spent working in St. Gallen either as a teacher or as a barista.

Neither position was relaxing.

Above: Panoramic view of St. Gallen

As the wife and I lived in Landschlacht, a mere 15 km from the German border, we were more likely to spend our free time in Konstanz due to its closer proximity and lower costs.

Above: Landschlacht, Switzerland

St. Gallen has meant, for the most part, work, work and more work.

This is not to say that I did not make any friends during my employment there nor would I say that there weren’t some moments when I, alone or accompanied by the wife, would travel to St. Gallen for leisure activities, such as theatres, restaurants and museums.

It is nonetheless a mistake to label St. Gallen as relaxed, for it is a Swiss city, and relaxing is not something at which the Swiss generally excel.

Above: St. Gallen

The centrepiece of St. Gallen is its extraordinarily lavish Baroque abbey, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Above: Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

All the sweetness of religion is conveyed to the world by the hands of storytellers and image makers.

Without their fictions the truths of religion would for the multitude be neither intelligible nor even apprehensible.

Prophets would prophesy and the teachers teach in vain.

George Bernard Shaw

Above: George Bernard Shaw (1856 – 1950)

This has always struck me as an odd notion.

If God exists and is the Creator of all that is, why in Heaven’s name would He need to be celebrated in a lavish enclosure?

Nothing man can construct can ever compare with the majesty of nature.

If God exists then He cannot nor should not be contained with the confines of a cathedral or a Camii. (Turkish: mosque)

I have often said that within the confines of a city it is difficult to believe in God.

In the expanse of nature it is difficult to doubt that God doesn’t exist.

I think that lavish religious structures are never about glorifying God as much as they are for showing off the wealth of the community.

Do we build these magnificent temples for God’s glory?

Or for ours?

Above: Interior of the Abbey Cathedral

The Cathedral is impressive enough and serves as an ever present reminder that the city owes its name to the religious community that remains at its core.

This giant Baroque building is unmissable, its twin towers visible from most points.

Above: Kloster St. Gallen, 1769

Designed by Peter Thumb from Bregenz (Austria), it was completed in 1797 after just 12 years’ work.

Above: Peter Thumb (1681 – 1767)

Access is through the west door, although it is worth making your way around the church and looking at the outside from the enclosed Klosterhof (cloister yard), at the heart of the complex, where you can gaze up at the soaring east facade.

The interior is vast, a broad, brightly lit basilica with a triple-aisled nave and central cupola.

Although not especially high, the Cathedral has a sense of huge depth and breadth.

From the sandstone of the floor and the wood of the pews, fancy light-green stuccowork – characteristic of churches in the Konstanz region – draws your eye up the massive double-width pillars to the array of frescoes on the ceiling, which are almost entirely the work of one artist, Josef Wannenmacher.

The central cupola shows Paradise with the Holy Trinity, apostles and saints.

Above: Rotunda, Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

(“And the three men I admire the most

The Father, Son and the Holy Ghost

They took the last train for the coast

The day the music died“)

Don McLean

Details throughout the rest of the Cathedral are splendid:

  • the ornate choir screen
  • the richly-carved walnut-wood confessionals
  • the intricate choir stalls
  • at the back at the choir, the high altar flanked by black marble columns with gold trim

The south altar features a bell brought by Gall(us) on his 7th-century journey from Ireland.

Above: Inside the Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

Gall’s origin is a matter of dispute.

It is all a matter of what you choose to believe.

According to his 9th-century biographers in Reichenau, he was from Ireland and entered Europe as a companion of Columbanus (Columba).

Above: St. Peter and St. Paul Church, Reichenau Island, Germany

The Irish origin of the historical Gall was called into question by Gerrold Hilty (2001), who proposed it as more likely that he was from the Vosges or Alsace region.

Max Schär (2010) proposed that Gall may have been of Irish descent but born and raised in the Alsace.

Above: (in red) Location of the Alsace region, France

According to the 9th-century hagiographies, Gall as a young man went to study at Bangor Abbey.

The monastery at Bangor had become renowned throughout Europe as a great centre of Christian learning.

Above: Bangor Abbey, Northern Ireland

Studying in Bangor at the same time as Gall was Columbanus, who with 12 companions, set out about the year 589.

Gall and his companions established themselves with Columbanus at first at Luxeuil in Gaul.

Above: Bobbio Abbey (Italy) stained glass image of Columbanus (543 – 615)

Above: Cloister area, Luxeuil Abbey, France

In 610, Columbanus was exiled by leaders opposed to Christianity and fled with Gall to Alemannia. 

Due to dynastic conflicts between Theuderic II (587 – 613) and his brother Theudebert II (585 – 612), Columbanus lost support in the Frankish Empire and had to leave Luxeuil. 

The further missionary journey led the community around Columban from Metz up the Rhine and via Zürich and Tuggen finally via Arbon to Bregenz. 

Above: Metz, France

Above: Altstadt Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Tuggen, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

In Bregenz, as in Arbon, they met a Christian community that had partially returned to paganism. 

Gall preached in the Alemannic language, in contrast to Columbanus, who did not speak it. 

Here, and before that in Tuggen, the religious people destroyed the statues of the local deities and threw them into the lake. 

As a result, these messengers of the faith antagonized some of the inhabitants, who complained to their Duke Gunzo. 

Two monks were killed after being ambushed.

(They were chasing a missing cow into the forest.)

The founding of a monastery in Bregenz failed and Columbanus traveled on to Bobbio in Italy in 612 to found a monastery at the invitation of the Lombard prince.

Above: Alemannia (orange) and Upper Burgundy (green), circa 1000 CE

Above: Bobbio, Italy

When Columbanus, Gall and their companions left Ireland for mainland Europe, they took with them learning and the written word.

Their effect on the historical record was significant as the books were painstakingly reproduced on vellum by monks across Europe.

Many of the Irish texts destroyed in Ireland during Viking raids were preserved in abbeys across the Channel.

Gall accompanied Columbanus on his voyage up the Rhine River to Bregenz, but when in 612 Columbanus travelled on to Italy from Bregenz, Gall had to remain behind due to illness and was nursed at Arbon.

Above: Columbanus and Gall on Lake Constance (Bodensee)

Above: Course of the Rhine River

Above: A view of modern Bregenz, Austria

Above: A view of modern Arbon, Switzerland

Gall remained in Alemannia, where, with several companions, he led the life of a hermit in the forests southwest of Lake Constance, near the source of the River Steinach.

Above: Steinach River, Mühlegg Gorge, St. Gallen

Cells were soon added for twelve monks whom Gall carefully instructed.

Gall was soon known in Switzerland as a powerful preacher.

When the See of Constance became vacant, the clergy who assembled to elect a new Bishop were unanimously in favour of Gall.

He, however, refused, pleading that the election of a stranger would be contrary to Church law.

Some time later, in the year 625, on the death of Eustasius, Abbott of Luxeuil, a monastery founded by Columbanus, members of that community were sent by the monks to request Gall to undertake the government of the monastery.

He refused to quit his life of solitude, and undertake any office of rank which might involve him in the cares of the world.

He was then an old man.

He died at the age of 95, circa 650, in Arbon.

His grave became a site of pilgrimage.

The supposed day of his death, 16 October, is still commemorated as Gallus Day.

Above: Gall, Tuggen coat of arms

From as early as the 9th century the fantastically embroidered Life of Saint Gallus was circulated.

Prominent was the story in which Gall delivered Fridiburga from a demon by which she was possessed.

Fridiburga was the betrothed of Sigibert III, King of the Franks, who had granted an estate at Arbon (which belonged to the royal treasury) to Gall so that he might found a monastery there.

Fridiburga was the daughter of the Alemannic Duke Gunzo. 

She was engaged to the Merovingian King Sigibert III (638 – 656), but she fell seriously ill shortly before the wedding. 

According to the Life of St. Gallus, Sigibert sent two bishops with rich gifts to Fridiburga to free her from the demon of illness, but in vain. 

Shortly afterwards, when Gall came to Überlingen, site of the Duke’s court, he healed Fridiburga. 

Above: Überlingen, Germany

She was then taken to Metz, where she was taken from the royal palace to the church of St. Stephen. 

On the advice of the bishops, Sigibert renounced his marriage to Fridiburga and then married Chimnechild in 646. 

Fridiburga lived as a nun in the Metz monastery of St. Peter, where she would became its abbess.

Above: Church of Saint Pierre aux Nonnains, Metz, France

Circa 612, Gall was, according to the lore, travelling south from the Bodensee into the forest.

Legend has it that Gall either fell over, or stumbled into, a briar patch.

After a long stay in Arbon, Gall decided in 612, together with the deacon Hiltibod of Arbon, to follow the Steinach River, which flows into Lake Constance

They moved along the stream into the Arbon forest – the whole area from Lake Constance to Appenzellerland was primeval forest at the time – and came to the waterfall at the Mühleggschlucht (mill slope canyon) gorge. 

Here Gall stumbled and fell into a thorn bush. 

He interpreted this as a divine sign to stay here. 

Above: Beginning of Mühleggschlucht Gorge near St. Georgen, Switzerland

Many depictions of Gall are therefore subtitled with the Latin Vulgate Bible verse:

Haec requies mea in saeculum saeculi.

Hic habitabo quoniam elegi eam.

(This is my resting place forever. 

I want to live here because I like it.)

Psalm 132: 14

Above: 8th century Vulgate Bible

Above: St. Gall and the founding of the monastery

Gall was sitting one evening warming his hands at a fire.

A bear emerged from the woods and charged.

The holy man rebuked the bear, so awed by his presence it stopped its attack and slunk off to the trees.

There it gathered firewood before returning to share the heat of the fire with Gall.

The legend says that for the rest of his days Gall was followed around by his companion the bear.

Images of Gall typically represent him standing with a bear.

Above: St. Gall with a bear

So either clumsiness or a trained bear led Gall to feel that he had received a sign from God – It’s nice that God has someone to communicate with. – and so chose the site to build his hermitage.

I guess nothing says security and sanctity more than accidental briar patches and firewood-fetching bears.

Above: Lyrics from “One of Us“, Joan Osborne

Afterwards, the people venerated Gall as a saint and prayed at his tomb for his intercession in times of danger.

After his death, a small church was erected, which developed into the Abbey of St. Gall, the nucleus of the Canton of St. Gallen.

The city of St. Gallen originated as an adjoining settlement of the Abbey.

Above: Plaque in honour of Gall, St. Gallen

Following Gall’s death, Charles Martel (688 – 741) had Othmar (689 – 759) appointed as custodian of St Gall’s relics.

Above: Charles Martel (688 – 741)

Othmar was of Alemannic descent, received his education in Rhaetia (Chur), was ordained priest, and for a time presided over a church in Rhaetia (Chur).

Above: Chur Cathedral

In 720 Waltram of Thurgau appointed Othmar superior over the cell of St. Gall and custodian of St Gall’s relics.

Othmar united into a monastery the monks that lived about the cell of St. Gall, according to the Rule of St. Columban, and became their first abbot.

Above: Collegiate Church of St. Gall and St. Othmar

He added a hospital and a school, which became the foundation upon which the famous Stiftsbibliothek (Monastery library) was built.

Above: The northwest wing of the monastery district from the outside – the Abbey Library is on the first and second floor

In 747, as a part of the reform movement of Church institutions in Alamannia, he introduced the Benedictine Rule, which was to remain in effect until the secularization and closure of the monastery in 1805.

Above: The oldest copy of the Rule of Saint Benedict, from the 8th century, Bodleian Library, Oxford, England

Othmar also provided for the needs of the surrounding community, building an almshouse as well as the first leprosarium (hospice for lepers) in Switzerland.

Above: Spinalonga, Crete, one of the last leper colonies in Europe, closed in 1957

When Carloman (713 – 754) renounced his throne in 747, he visited Othmar at St. Gall and gave him a letter to his brother Pepin (714 – 768), recommending Othmar and his monastery to the King’s liberality.

Othmar personally brought the letter to Pepin, and was kindly received.

Above: Charles Martel divides the realm between Pepin and Carloman

In 759, Counts Warin and Ruodhart tried to gain possession of some property belonging to St. Gall, Othmar fearlessly resisted their demands.

Hereupon they captured him while he was on a journey to Konstanz, and held him prisoner, first at the castle of Bodmann, then on the island of Werd in the Rhine River.

Above: Werd Island

At the latter place he died, after an imprisonment of six months, and was buried.

Above: Martyrdom of St. Othmar

Othmar’s cult began to spread soon after his death.

He is one of the most popular saints in Switzerland.

In 769 his body was transferred to the Monastery of St. Gall.

As the weather was very hot, when the men rowed his body across Lake Constance (Bodensee), they became extremely thirsty.

Legends say that the only barrel of wine they had left did not become empty, regardless of how much they drank.

Therefore, the wine barrel became one of Othmar’s attributes.

His cult was officially recognized in 864 by Bishop of Konstanz Solomon I (d. 871).

Above: Othmar of St. Gallen

Interesting side note connected with Solomon I:

In 847, his diocese was the first to be disturbed by the preachings of a false prophetess named Thiota.

Above: Cathedral of Konstanz, Germany

Thiota was a heretical Christian prophetess originally from Alemannia.

In 847 she began prophesying that the world would end that year.

Her story is known from the Annales Fuldenses which records that she disturbed the diocese of Solomon before arriving in Mainz.

A large number of men and women were persuaded by her “presumption” as well as even some clerics.

In fear, many gave her gifts and sought prayers.

Finally, the bishops of Gallica Belgica ordered her to attend a synod in St Alban’s Church in Mainz.

She was eventually forced to confess that she had only made up her predictions at the urging of a priest and for lucrative gain.

She was publicly flogged and stripped of her ministry, which the Fuldensian annalist says she had taken up “unreasonably against the customs of the Church.”

Shamed, she ceased to prophesy thereafter.

Above: 11th century Carolina copy Annales Fuldenses, Humanist Library, Schlettstadt, Alsace, France
The report is open for the year 855 with the earthquake in Mainz.

In 867 Othmar was solemnly entombed in the new church of St. Othmar at St. Gall.

He is represented in art as a Benedictine abbot, generally holding a little barrel in his hand, an allusion to the alleged miracle, that a barrel of Othmar never became empty, no matter how much he took from it to give to the poor.

Above: Statue of St. Othmar

Two monks of the Abbey of St Gall, Magnus von Füssen and Theodor, founded the monasteries in Füssen and Kempten in the Allgäu region.

Above: Statue of Magnus of Füssen

Above: St. Lawrence Church, Kempten Abbey, Allgäu, Bavaria, Germany

With the increase in the number of monks the Abbey grew stronger also economically.

Much land in Thurgau, Zürichgau, and in the rest of Alemannia as far as the Neckar River was transferred to the Abbey.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

Under Abbot Waldo of Reichenau (740 – 814) copying of manuscripts was undertaken and a famous library was gathered.

Numerous Anglo-Saxon and Irish monks came to copy manuscripts here.

Above: Abbot Waldo of Reichenau meets Charlemagne

At Charlemagne’s (747 – 814) request, Pope Adrian I (700 – 795) sent distinguished chanters from Rome, who propagated the use of the Gregorian chant.

Above: 15th century miniature depicting Pope Adrian I greeting Charlemagne

In 744, the Alemannic nobleman Beata sold several properties to the Abbey in order to finance his journey to Rome.

Above: St. Peter’s Cathedral, Vatican City

In the 830s, under Abbot Gozbert (d. 850), Saint Gall became a cultural centre, as many still existing documents from his time affirm.

He paid special attention to the Abbey Library and had close ties to one of the main scribes there, Wolfcoz.

Above: Abbey Library

Wolfcoz I was a medieval scribe and painter of illuminated manuscripts, working in the scriptorium of the Abbey of Saint Gall.

He entered the monastery some time before 813.

Fourteen known documents by Wolfcoz’s hand were created between 816 and 822, including parts of the Wolfcoz Psalter and the Zürich Psalter.

In Wolfcoz’ time, the scriptorium of the Abbey entered a golden age, producing manuscripts of high quality and establishing the Abbey Library of Saint Gall as a centre of Alemannic German culture.

The Abbey Library still has three manuscripts penned by Wolfcoz. 

He developed the Allemanic minuscule and also the decoration of initials.

Above: Scribe in a scriptorium, Miracles de Notre Dame

Gozbert was the recipient (and employer?) of the Plan of Saint Gall, which was made around 820 in Reichenau.

How closely his monastery actually resembled this ideal plan is unknown. 

Above: The Carolingian monastery plan of St. Gallen is the oldest surviving architectural drawing in the West

The monastery was eventually freed from its dependence upon the Bishopric of Konstanz.

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Konstanz

King Louis the Pious confirmed in 833 the immunity of the Abbey and allowed the monks the free choice of their abbot.

Above: King Louis / Ludwig the Pious (778 – 840)

In 854, finally, the Abbey of St Gall reached its full autonomy by King Louis the German (806 – 876) releasing the Abbey from the obligation to pay tithes to the Bishop of Konstanz.

Above: Louis the German (bottom) genuflecting at Christ on the cross

From this time until the 10th century, the Abbey flourished.

It was home to several famous scholars, including Notker of Liège (940 – 1008), Notker the Stammerer (840 – 912), Notker Labeo (950 – 1022), Tuotilo (850 – 915) and Hartker (who developed the antiphonal liturgical books (choir books) for the Abbey).

Above: Notker of Liège

Above: Notker the Stammerer

Above: Notker Labeo

Above: Copy of Tuotilo’s Cod. Sang. 53, Abbey Library, St. Gallen

Above: Printed antiphonary (ca. 1700), open to Vespers of Easter Sunday, Musée de l’Assistance Publique, Hôpitaux de Paris

During the 9th century a new, larger Church was built and the Library was expanded.

Manuscripts on a wide variety of topics were purchased by the Abbey and copies were made.

Over 400 manuscripts from this time have survived and are still in the Library today.

Above: Abbey Library

Emperor Louis the Pious (778 – 840) made the monastery an imperial institution.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

In 926 the Magyars threatened the Abbey and the books had to be removed to Reichenau for safety.

Above: Hungarian invasions, 9th and 10th centuries CE

Not all the books were returned.

Above: Aerial view of Reichenau Island

Hungarian troops entered Swabia, as allies of the new Italian King, Hugh the Great (880 – 947), besieged Augsburg, and then occupied the Abbey of Saint Gallen, where they spared the life of the monk Heribald, whose accounts give a detailed description about their traditions and way of life. 

Above: Hugh the Great

Above: Town Hall Palace, Augsburg, Germany

The “Golden Age” of St. Gallen ended abruptly on 1 May 926, after travellers reported in the spring that the Hungarians were already advancing on their campaigns as far as Lake Constance. 

Since the dukes could not build up a joint defense in the divided East Frankish kingdom, they had nothing to oppose the plundering and pillaging gangs.

Above: Division of the Frankish Empire, 843

Abbot Engilbert decided to bring the students, the elderly and the sick to safety in the moated castle near Lindau, which belonged to the monastery.

Above: Lindau Island, Germany

Many of the writings were hidden in the friendly monastery of Reichenau.

The monks took themselves and the valuable cult objects to a refuge of safety in the Sitterswald. 

Above: Catholic Church, Sitterswald, Switzerland

At her express request, the hermit Wiborada was the only one left behind in the walled-up church of St. Mangen in the deserted town.

Above: St. Mangen Church, St. Gallen

From the Abbey the Magyars sent minor units to reconnoitre and plunder the surroundings.

When the Hungarians raided the city, they found nothing of value. 

They damaged buildings and altars and burned down the town’s wooden houses. 

The attackers also found Wiborada, but no entrance to their walled-up hermitage. 

Fire couldn’t harm her or the church, so the Hungarians uncovered the roof and killed her. 

The Hungarians did not dare to attack the monks’ refuge because of its inaccessible location. 

They were even attacked by the retreating monks. 

After the Hungarians left, the monks returned with the residents and rebuilt the damaged and burnt down houses. 

One of their units killed Wiborada who lived as an anchoress (female hermit) in a wood nearby.

Above: Church of St. Mangen

Wiborada was born to a wealthy noble family in Swabia.

When they invited the sick and poor into their home, Wiborada proved a capable nurse.

Her brother Hatto became a priest.

A pilgrimage to Rome influenced Hatto to decide to become a monk at the Abbey of Saint Gall, a decision which Wiborada supported.

After the death of their parents, Wiborada joined Hatto and became a Benedictine at the Abbey of Saint Gall.

Above: Portrayal of the young Ulrich with Wiborada

Wiborada became settled at the monastery and Hatto taught her Latin so that she could chant the Liturgy of the Hours.

There, she occupied herself by making Hatto’s clothes and helping to bind many of the books in the monastery library.

At this time, it appears that Wiborada was charged with some type of serious infraction or wrongdoing, and was subjected to the medieval practice of ordeal by fire to prove her innocence.

(Ordeal by fire was one form of torture.

The ordeal of fire typically required that the accused walk a certain distance, usually 9 feet (2.7 metres) or a certain number of paces, usually three, over red-hot ploughshares or holding a red-hot iron.

Innocence was sometimes established by a complete lack of injury, but it was more common for the wound to be bandaged and re-examined three days later by a priest, who would pronounce that God had intervened to heal it, or that it was merely festering — in which case the suspect would be exiled ot put to death.)

Above: After being accused of adultery Cunigunde of Luxembourg (975 – 104) proved her innocence by walking over red-hot ploughshares.

Although she was exonerated, the embarrassment probably influenced her next decision: withdrawing from the world and becoming an ascetic.

When she petitioned to become an anchoress, Solomon III, Bishop of Konstanz (r. 890 – 919), arranged for her to stay in a cell next to the Church of Saint George near the monastery, where she remained for four years before relocating to a cell adjoining the church of Magnus of Füssen in 891.

She became renowned for her austerity, and was said to have a gift of prophecy, both of which drew admirers and hopeful students.

Above: Wiborada with Solomon III, Bishop of Konstanz

One of these, a woman named Rachildis, whom Wiborada had cured of a disease, joined her as an anchoress.

Above: Healing of a sick person with the comb relic of Wiborada

A young student at St. Gall, Ulrich (890 – 973), is said to have visited Wiborada often.

Wiborda supposedly prophesied his elevation to the Episcopate of Augsburg.

(Ulrich was the first saint to be canonized not by a local authority but by the Pope.)

Above: Statue of Ulrich von Augsburg (890 – 973), St. Agatha Chapel, Disentis, Graubünden, Switzerland

In 925, Wiborada predicted a Hungarian invasion of her region.

Her warning allowed the priests and religious of St. Gall and St. Magnus to hide their books and wine and escape into caves in nearby hills. 

The most precious manuscripts were transferred to the monastery at Reichenau Island.

However, the main refuge castle for the monks and the Abbot was the Waldburg in the Sitterwood.

Abbot Engilbert urged Wiborada to escape to safety, but she refused to leave her cell.

On 8 May 926 the Magyar marauders reached St. Gall.

They burned down St. Magnus and broke into the roof of Wiborada’s cell.

Upon finding her kneeling in prayer, they clove her skull with a fokos (shepherd’s axe).

Above: Earliest representation of Wiborada

Her companion Rachildis was not killed, and lived another 21 years, during which her disease returned.

She spent the rest of her life learning patience through suffering.

Wiborada’s refusal to leave her cell and the part she played in saving the lives of the priests and religious of her convent have merited her the title of martyr.

Above: The martyrdom of Wiborada

On 26 April 937, a fire broke out and destroyed much of the Abbey and the adjoining settlement, though the library was undamaged.

About 954 they started to protect the monastery and buildings by a surrounding wall.

Circa 974 Abbot Notker (r. 971 – 975) (about whom almost nothing is known, except that he was the nephew of Notker Physicus (d. 975) – “the physician“) finalized the walling.

The adjoining settlements started to become the town of St Gall. 

Above: Abbey and surroundings, St. Gallen

The Abbey was the northernmost place where a sighting of the 1006 supernova was recorded, likely the brightest observed stellar event in recorded history.

Above: Remnant of Supernova 1006

In 1207, Abbot Ulrich von Sax was made a Prince of the Holy Roman Empire by King Philip of Germany (1177 – 1208).

Above: Coat of arms of the von Sax dynasty

The Abbey thus became a Princely Abbey (Reichsabtei).

As the Abbey became more involved in politics, it entered a period of decline.

Above: Philip of Swabia (1177 – 1208)

The city of St. Gallen proper progressively freed itself from the rule of the Abbot, acquiring imperial immediacy, and by the late 15th century was recognized as a Free Imperial City.

By 1353 the guilds, headed by the cloth weavers guild, gained control of the civic government.

In 1415 the City bought its liberty from German King Sigismund (1368 – 1437).

During the 14th century Humanists were allowed to carry off some of the rare texts from the Abbey Library.

Above: Sigismund of Luxembourg (1368 – 1437)

In the late 14th and early 15th centuries, the farmers of the Abbot’s personal estates (known as Appenzell, from the Latin abbatis cella meaning “cell (i.e. estate) of the Abbot“) began seeking independence.

In 1401, the first of the Appenzell Wars (1401 – 1429) broke out, and following the Appenzell victory at Stoss in 1405 they became allies of the Swiss Confederation in 1411.

Above: Battle of Vögelinsegg

Above: Battle of Stoss Pass (1405) Memorial

During the Appenzell Wars, the town of St. Gallen often sided with Appenzell against the Abbey.

So when Appenzell allied with the Confederation, the town of St. Gallen followed just a few months later.

The Abbey became an ally of several members of the Swiss Confederation (Zürich, Luzern, Schwyz and Glarus) in 1451, while Appenzell and St. Gallen became full members of the Swiss Confederation in 1454.

In 1457 the town of St. Gallen became officially free from the Abbey.

Above: Coat of arms of the City of St. Gallen

In 1468 Abbot Ulrich Rösch bought the County of Toggenburg from the representative of its counts, after the family died out in 1436.

In 1487 Rösch founded a monastery at Rorschach on Lake Constance, to which he planned to move.

Above: Rorschach, Switzerland

However, he encountered stiff resistance from the St. Gallen citizenry, other clerics, and the Appenzell nobility in the Rhine Valley who were concerned about their holdings.

Above: Abbot Ulrich Rösch (1463 – 1491)

The town of St. Gallen wanted to restrict the increase of power of the Abbey and simultaneously increase the power of the town.

The Mayor of St. Gallen, Ulrich Varnbüler, established contact with farmers and Appenzell residents (led by the fanatical Hermann Schwendiner) who were seeking an opportunity to weaken the Abbot.

Initially, Varnbüler protested to the Abbot and the representatives of the four sponsoring Confederate cantons (Zürich, Lucerne, Schwyz, and Glarus) against the construction of the new Abbey in Rorschach.

Then on 28 July 1489 he had armed troops from St. Gallen and Appenzell destroy the buildings already under construction.

Above: Portrait of Ulrich Varnbüler (1432 – 1496), Albrecht Dürer

When the Abbot complained to the Confederates about the damages and demanded full compensation, Varnbüler responded with a counter suit and in cooperation with Schwendiner rejected the arbitration efforts of the non-partisan Confederates.

He motivated the clerics from Wil to Rorschach to discard their loyalty to the Abbey and spoke against the Abbey at a town meeting in Waldkirch, where the popular league was formed.

He was confident that the four sponsoring cantons would not intervene with force, due to the prevailing tensions between the Confederation and the Swabian League.

He was strengthened in his resolve by the fact that the people of St. Gallen elected him again to the highest magistrate in 1490.

Above: The Abbot’s coat of arms

However, in early 1490 the four cantons decided to carry out their duty to the Abbey and to invade the St. Gallen canton with an armed force.

The people of Appenzell and the local clerics submitted to this force without noteworthy resistance, while the city of St. Gallen braced for a fight to the finish.

However, when they learned that their compatriots had given up the fight, they lost confidence.

The end result was that they concluded a peace pact that greatly restricted the city’s powers and burdened the city with serious penalties and reparations payments.

Above: Old houses of St. Gallen

Varnbüler and Schwendiner fled to the court of King Maximilian (1459 – 1519) and lost all their property in St. Gallen and Appenzell.

However, the Abbot’s reliance on the Swiss to support him reduced his position almost to that of a “subject district“.

Above: Maxmilian I, Holy Roman Emperor

The town adopted the Reformation in 1524, while the Abbey remained Catholic, which damaged relations between the town and Abbey.

Both the Abbot and a representative of the town were admitted to the Swiss Tagsatzung (parliament) as the closest associates of the Confederation.

In the 16th century the Abbey was raided by Calvinist groups, who scattered many of the old books. 

Above: Tadsatzung, Baden, 1531

In 1530, Abbot Diethelm began a restoration that stopped the decline and led to an expansion of the schools and library.

Under Abbot Pius Reher (r. 1630 – 1654) a printing press was started.

Above: Pius Reher (1597 – 1654)

In 1712 during the Toggenburg War (also called the Second War of Villmergen), the Abbey of St. Gall was pillaged by the Confederation.

They took most of the books and manuscripts to Zürich and Bern.

For security, the Abbey was forced to request the protection of the townspeople of St. Gallen.

Until 1457 the townspeople had been serfs of the Abbey, but they had grown in power until they were protecting the Abbey.

Above: Toggenburg War map – Protestant (green) / Catholic (yellow) / Neutral (grey)

Following the disturbances, the Abbey was still the largest religious city-state in Switzerland, with over 77,000 inhabitants.

A final attempt to expand the abbey resulted in the demolition of most of the medieval monastery.

The new structures, including the Cathedral by architect Peter Thumb (1681–1766), were designed in the late Baroque style and constructed between 1755 and 1768.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

The large and ornate new Abbey did not remain a monastery for very long.

In 1798 the Prince-Abbot’s secular power was suppressed and the Abbey was secularized.

The monks were driven out and moved into other abbeys.

The Abbey became a separate See (a bishop’s ecclesiastical jurisdiction) in 1846, with the Abbey church as its Cathedral and a portion of the monastic buildings reserved for the Bishop.

Above: Abbey

The Abbey of St. Gall, the monastery and especially its celebrated scriptorium played an illustrious part in Catholic and intellectual history until it was secularised in 1798.

The former Abbey church became a Cathedral in 1848.

Since 1983 the abbey precinct has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as “a perfect example of a great Carolingian monastery”.

Above: Abbey

St. Gall is the name of a wheel shaped hard cheese made from the milk of Friesian cows, which won a Gold Medal at the World Cheese Awards held in Dublin 2008.

Canadian writer Robertson Davies, in his book, The Manticore, interprets the legend in Swiss psychologist Carl Jung (1875 – 1961) terms.

In the final scene of the novel where David Staunton is celebrating Christmas with Lizelloti Fitziputli, Magnus Eisengrim, and Dunstan Ramsay, he is given a gingerbread bear.

Ramsay explains that Gall made a pact of peace with a bear who was terrorizing the citizens of the nearby village.

They would feed the bear gingerbread and the bear would refrain from eating them.

The parable is presented as a Jungian exhortation to make peace with one’s dark side.

This Jungian interpretation is however incompatible with Catholic Orthodoxy which Gall promoted.

It is all a matter of what you choose to believe.

Even today, the Abbey Library is celebrated as Switzerland’s finest secular Rococo interior and one of the oldest libraries in Europe with its huge collection of rare medieval books and manuscripts.

The visitor enters beneath a sign that reads YUCHS IATREION (Greek for “Pharmacy of the Soul).

By the entrance are dozens of oversized felt grey slippers.

Slip your shoe-clad feet into a pair, to protect the inlaid wooden floor.

The 28m X 10m room is dynamic.

Designed by the same Peter Thumb who worked on the Cathedral, the Library’s orthodox Baroque architecture is overlaid with opulent Rococo decoration.

The four ceiling frescoes by Josef Wannenmacher depict with bold trompe l’oeil perspectives the early Christian theological Councils of Nicaea (modern Iznik, Turkey), Constantinople (modern Istanbul), Ephesus (modern Selçuk, Turkey), and Chalcedon (Kadiköy district, Istanbul).

Above: The Council of Nicaea, with Arius depicted as defeated by the council, lying under the feet of Emperor Constantine

Above: Miniature of the Council of Constantinople (AD 381). Emperor Theodosius I and a crowd of bishops seated on a semicircular bench, on either side of an enthroned Gospel Book. An heretic, Macedonius, occupies the lower left corner of the miniature.

Above: Council of Ephesus (431)

Above: Council of Chalcedon (451)

Among the wealth of smaller frescoes set among the ceiling stucco, in the corner directly above the entrance door, you will spot the Venerable Bede, a 7th century English monk from Northumbria who wrote one of the first histories of England.

Above: The Venerable Bede (672 – 735), The Last Chapter, J. Boyle Penrose

Above: Statue of the Venerable Bede, St. Gallen Abbey

The books are ranged on floor-to-ceiling shelves all around.

Its list of cultural treasures among its over 160,000 volumes is extraordinary.

There are more Irish manuscripts in St. Gallen than there are in Dublin, with 15 handwritten examples including a Latin manuscript of the Gospels dating from 750.

Other works include:

  • an astronomical textbook written in 300 BCE
  • copies made in the 5th century of works by Virgil, Horace and other classical authors
  • texts written by the Venerable Bede in his original Northumbrian language
  • the oldest book to have survived in German, dating from the 8th century

Above: Abbey Library

One of the more interesting documents in the Stiftsbibliothek is a copy of Priscian’s (circa 500) Institutiones grammaticae, (the standard textbook for the study of Latin during the Middle Ages), which contains the poem Is acher in gaith in-nocht, written in Old Irish.

Above: Institutiones Grammaticae, 1290, Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, Firenze (Florence), Italy

The Library also preserves a unique 9th century document, known as the Plan of St. Gall, the only surviving major architectural drawing from the roughly 700-year period between the fall of the Western Roman Empire and the 13th century.

The Plan drawn was never actually built, and was so named because it was kept at the famous medieval monastery library, where it remains to this day.

The Plan was an ideal of what a well-designed and well-supplied monastery should have, as envisioned by one of the synods held at Aachen (814 – 817) for the reform of monasticism in the Frankish Empire during the early years of Emperor Louis the Pious.

Above: Plan of Saint Gall (simplified)

A late 9th century drawing of St. Paul lecturing an agitated crowd of Jews and Gentiles, part of a copy of a Pauline epistles produced at and still held by the Monastery, was included in a medieval drawing show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City in the summer of 2009.

A reviewer noted that the artist had “a special talent for depicting hair, with the saint’s beard ending in curling droplets of ink“.

Above: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City

St. Gall is noted for its early use of the neume, the basic element of Western and Eastern systems of musical notation prior to the invention of five-line staff notation.

The earliest extant manuscripts are from the 9th or 10th century.

A few treasures of the Library are displayed in glass cases, with exhibits changed regularly.

Incongruously (as in “What the Hell is this doing here?“), there is an Egyptian mummy dating from 700 BCE, a gift to the mayor of St. Gallen in the early 19th century.

Unsure of what to do with it, he plonked it in this corner of the Library, where it has since remained.

Above: Abbey Library

Diagonally opposite stands a beautifully intricate 2.3m-high globe depicting both celestial and earthly maps.

It is, in fact, a replica.

The original, dating from 1570, was stolen by Zürich troops in 1712 and stands in the National Museum.

To resolve the dispute, Canton Zürich agreed to produce this copy, which was completed in 2009.

Above: Abbey Library

I find myself thinking of the reverence that is given to copies.

A globe is replicated and its replication is mentioned in the smallest print possible with the least fanfare required.

Those who do not question its authenticity need not know it isn’t the original.

This leads to me to ponder:

How far from the origins of our religions have we strayed?

We are told that Christ existed but the proof lies solely in the Gospels which promote His Name.

We are told that Muhammad existed but it is blasphemy to even sketch a likeness of how the Prophet may have looked.

We choose to believe in that which we can neither prove nor disprove.

Much like love, faith is manifested not in what is professed but rather by how it is manifested in the lives of its true believers.

By deeds we decide our dedication.

By actions we activate our ardour.

Above: Prevailing world religions map

All of which leaves me thinking of the Chris Nolan film The Dark Knight….

It’s not about what I want, it’s about what’s FAIR!

You thought we could be decent men in an indecent time.

But you were wrong.

The world is cruel and the only morality in a cruel world is chance.

Unbiased, unprejudiced, fair.

Above: Aaron Eckhart as Harvey Dent/Two Face, The Dark Knight

Because sometimes…

The truth isn’t good enough.

Sometimes people deserve more.

Sometimes people deserve to have their faith rewarded.

Above: Christian Bale as Batman / Bruce Wayne, The Dark Knight

Perhaps this is why we build cathedrals and mosques and temples?

To show how our faith has rewarded us?

Above: Ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Nothing left to do
When you know that you’ve been taken
Nothing left to do
When you’re begging for a crumb
Nothing left to do
When you’ve got to go on waiting
Waiting for the miracle to come

Waiting for the Miracle“, Leonard Cohen

Above: Leonard Cohen (1934 – 2016)

According to the 2000 census, 31,978 or 44.0% were Roman Catholic, while 19,578 or 27.0% belonged to the Swiss Reformed Church.

Of the rest of the population, there were 112 individuals (or about 0.15% of the population) who belong to the Christian Catholic faith, there were 3,253 individuals (or about 4.48% of the population) who belong to the Orthodox Church, and there were 1,502 individuals (or about 2.07% of the population) who belong to another Christian church.

There were 133 individuals (or about 0.18% of the population) who were Jewish, and 4,856 (or about 6.69% of the population) who were Muslim.

There were 837 individuals (or about 1.15% of the population) who belonged to another church (not listed on the census), 7,221 (or about 9.94% of the population) belonged to no church, were agnostic or atheist, and 3,156 individuals (or about 4.35% of the population) did not answer the question.

There are 28 sites in St. Gallen that are listed as Swiss Heritage Sites of National Significance, including four religious buildings:

  • the Abbey of St. Gallen

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

  • the former Dominican Abbey of St. Katharina

The St. Gallen Monastery of St. Catherine has had a turbulent history since it was founded in 1228.

The founding document dates dates back to 30 June 1228.

It is a late Gothic splendour – beautiful and one of the oldest buildings in the city.

The history of the order goes back to the 13th and 14th centuries.

The monastery was named after the martyr Catherine of Alexandria.

Until 1266 St. Catherine was a monastery of the Augustinians, until in 1368 the resident nuns adopted the Dominican rule.

The great fire of 20 April 1418 greatly affected the monastery.

The last woman entering the monastery, Katharina von Watt, was a sister of the longtime Mayor and patron of the Reformation, Joachim von Watt (Vadian).

In 1527 the monastery became a victim of the Reformation:

Council servants commissioned by the authorities entered into the monastery church and destroyed the cult objects.

In 1555 the last sisters left the St. Gallen Monastery of St. Catherine.

Today only the cloister and the church have survived from the monastery complex.

You can walk through the cloister and there is a library which can be visited.

There is also a old church (of course) but the opening times are said to be very special…

Above: The Monastery of St. Catherine, St. Gallen

  • the Reformed Church of St. Lawrence

The St. Laurenzen Church is the Evangelical Reformed parish church of the city of St. Gallen. 

The construction of the first church is estimated to be in the middle of the 12th century. 

The church was the political, religious and social center of the city republic of St. Gallen for almost 300 years and has had a lasting influence on the history of the city.

Today it is still a meeting room for the town’s local citizens. 

The church takes its name from the martyr Lawrence of Rome to whom it was dedicated. It is classified as a building worthy of national protection (highest of the three protection levels) and as a monument of national importance it is therefore under federal monument protection.

Above: Church of St. Lawrence, St. Gallen

  • the Roman Catholic parish church of St. Maria Neudorf

Above: St. Maria Neudorf, St. Gallen

One of the most important organs in Switzerland is located in the church of St. Maria Neudorf in the east of the city of St. Gallen. 

Their history and construction are not commonplace. 

It is a monumental organ that was built in 1927 by organ builder Willisau according to the principles of the Alsatian organ reform. 

It is the largest organ in the city of St. Gallen and, with its remote control, is one of the largest surviving organs from this period.

Above: Organ, St. Maria Neudorf

Also worth viewing are:

  • Greek Orthodox Church of St. Constantine and St. Helena with its Athonite icons and a stained glass window of the Last Judgment

Above: Greek Orthodox Church of St. Constantine and St. Helena, St. Gallen

Above: St. Constantine and St. Helena

Above: Details of the Last Judgment

  • Protestant Church of Linsebühl, an impressive new Renaissance building dating from 1897

The striking Linsebühl Church, built in 1895-1897 in neo-Renaissance style, is a little off the beaten track of traffic but still central. 

The richly decorated interior was extensively restored in 1992 and offers a festive and, at the same time, a somewhat playful atmosphere with excellent acoustics for music and singing.

The organ by the Goll company from Luzern, built in 1897 and restored in 1992, with pneumatic action, three manuals, a pedal and 38 registers, is one of the few surviving purely romantic organs and is known far beyond the city and canton borders.


In addition to the usually well-attended church services, some concerts take place in the Linsebühl church.

With its large forecourt and neighboring parish hall, it is also very suitable for weddings and other festive occasions.


With its galleries, the Church offers space for 810 people (The nave alone can hold ​​512 people).

Above: Linsebühl Reformed Church, St. Gallen

  • Catholic church of St. Martin in the Bruggen district, this concrete church built in 1936 was at that time glaringly modern

This third Catholic Church of St. Martin Bruggen was completed in 1936 next to its predecessor church. 

The first chapel was consecrated in 1600 and converted into a proper church in 1639. 

The second church was completed on the site of the first in 1785 and received a new tower in 1808. 

After the new building and the consecration of today’s church, the southwestern old church was demolished.

Above: St. Martin Church, Bruggen, St. Gallen

The church is named after Saint Martin of Tours. 

A life-size equestrian statue of him stands in front of the church, together with a beggar.

Above: St. Martin Bruggen Reformed Church, St. Gallen

(While Martin was a soldier in the Roman army and stationed in Gaul (modern-day France), he experienced a vision, which became the most-repeated story about his life.

One winter’s day, at the gates of Amiens, Martin met a poor, unclothed man. 

Martin was carrying nothing but his guns and military coat. 

In a merciful act, he divided his cloak with the sword and gave half to the poor man. 

The following night Christ appeared to Martin in a dream, dressed in half the cloak that he had given the beggar. 

I was naked and you clothed me….

What you did to one of these least of these my brothers, you did to me.” (Matthew 25: 35 – 40) )

Above: Martin and the beggar, El Greco

  • Synagogue St. Gallen, built by architects Chiodera and Tschudy, it is the only synagogue in the Lake Constance region that has been preserved in its original state.

Above: St. Gallen Synagogue

The first document mentioning Jews in St. Gall is dated in 1268.

In 1292 two houses in the town were inhabited by Jews.

On 23 February 1349, during the Black Death, Jewish inhabitants were burned or driven out.

Jews were not allowed to settle in St. Gall again until the 19th century.

The Jews, who then lived in a special quarter, the “Hinterlauben” or “Brotlauben” were accused of having poisoned the wells.

St. Gallen followed the example of other towns near the Lake of Constance, imprisoning the Jews, burning them alive, or at best expelling them and confiscating their property.

For a long time after this event no Jews lived in St. Gall.

In modern times the right of settlement was granted only very exceptionally to a few Jews, who had to pay heavily for the concession.

Even after the wars of independence the St. Gallen “Jews’ Law” of 15 May 1818, though not strictly enforced by the government, placed the Jews under severe restrictions.

These laws remained on the statute books until the emancipation of the Jews of Switzerland in February 1863.

On 8 April 1864, the present Jewish community was constituted, the members having moved to St. Gall from the nearby town of Hohenems (Austria).

On 21 September 1881, the present synagogue was consecrated.

Religious services were organized, Hebrew and religious classes founded.

Soon afterward the cemetery was laid out.

The dead had previously been conveyed to one of the neighboring communities.

Above: Jewish cemetery, St. Gallen

Jews played a prominent role in the St. Gall textile industry until 1912, especially in the famous embroidery branch.

In 1919 refugees from Eastern Europe settled in St. Gallen, forming a separate community.

German and Austrian Jewish refugees began crossing the border into the Canton in 1938, and a refugee care organization was set up there.

Above: Judaica – candlesticks, etrog box, shofar, Torah pointer, Tanach, natla

From 1939 to 1944 the town was the centre for preparing Jewish refugee children for Youth Aliyah to Palestine.

Above: Youth Aliyah commemorative stamp

In 1944, 1,350 Jews (mostly Hungarian) from the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp were brought to St. Gallen.

Above: A British Army bulldozer pushes dead bodies into a mass grave at Belsen, Germany, 19 April 1945

A year later 1,200 Jews from Theresienstadt concentration camp arrived.

Above: Memorial to Jewish Victims, Terezin (formerly Theresienstadt), Czech Republic

Above: Three Jewish children rescued from Theresienstadt recuperate in St. Gallen, 11 February 1945

Police officer Paul Grüninger, later designated as “Righteous among the Gentiles“, helped Jewish refugees after 1938.

Above: Righteous Among the Nations medal

He was ousted from office, lost his pension, and died in misery.

Years after his death, citizens fought successfully for his posthumous rehabilitation.

A square in St. Gallen is named after him.

Above: Paul Grüninger (1891 – 1972)

Above: Grüningerplatz, St. Gallen

Above: Paul Brüninger Bridge between Diepoldsau, Germany and Hohenems, Austria

The Jewish inhabitants of St. Gallen increased numerically over the course of time through frequent migrations from the communities of Endingen and Lengnau, Gailingen (Baden), Laupheim (Württemberg), and from other places.

The Jews of St. Gallen exceed 500 in a total population of over 33,000.

Above: Entry to the Jewish Museum of Switzerland, Basel

The El Hidaje Mosque is an unassuming building that received public attention when a man was shot dead during a Friday prayer on 22 August 2014.

Police arrested an individual with a handgun when they were called after reports of gunfire.

A man was found dead in the mosque’s prayer room, a police spokesman said.

Around 300 people were reportedly in the mosque for Friday prayers at the time of the shooting.

It was not immediately clear what the motive may have been.

Witnesses believe the killing may have been linked to a family dispute dating back a number of years, Swiss newspaper 20 Minutes reported.

The El-Hidaje mosque is used by St Gallen’s Albanian Muslim community.

Fehim Dragusha, a former Imam at the mosque, told Switzerland’s Radio FM1:

Albanians and Muslims should not bring problems from their home country into Switzerland.

Above: El-Hidaje Mosque, St. Gallen

There are at least 50 places of worship across St. Gallen where people can gather to publicly proclaim their devotion to God.

And in none of them do I get a sense of the presence of God (presuming His existence) within.

This is not to say that others are not inspired by their visits to these sanctuaries of faith, but I am not one of them.

I defend a person’s right to believe (or not believe) what they will providing this practice does no harm to others

For myself what religious feeling I may have experienced has always been in the midst of walking.

An activity of late that has gone sadly neglected since my return to Eskişehir last month, though walking is an activity that requires few expenses to do.

We live in a time where the lines of conflict have been drawn between secrecy and openness, between the consolidation and the dispersal of power, between privatization and public ownership, between power and life.

Walking has always been on the side of the latter.

Walking itself has not changed the world – though it does seem that so many religious leaders have found their particular testaments during such activity – but walking has been a rite, a tool, a reinforcement of a civil society that stands up to violence, to fear, and to repression.

Indeed, it is hard to imagine a viable civil society without the free association and the knowledge of the terrain that comes with walking.

A sequestered or passive population is not quite a citizenry.

Insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space and will to walk and against the version of humanity that act embodies.

One force is the filling-up of “the time in-between“, the time between places.

This time has been deplored as a waste, so it is filled with earphones and mobile phone screens.

The ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the useless, has evaporated, as does appreciation of being outside – including outside the familiar.

Our mobile phones serve as a buffer against solitude, silence and thought.

We have become immobile and inactive.

We have forgotten that our bodies are built to be used, that our bodies were not meant to be passive, that our bodies are inherent sources of power.

While walking, the body and the mind can work together, so that thinking becomes a physical, rhythmic act.

Spirituality enters in as we move through urban and rural planes of existence.

Past and present combine as we relive events in our personal histories.

Each walk moves through space like a thread through fabric, sewing it together into a continuous experience – unlike the way other modes of travel chop up time and space.

It starts with a step and then another and then another, adding up like taps on a drum to a rhythm, the rhythm of walking.

Walking is an investigation, a ritual, a meditation.

We invest a universal act with particular meanings, from the erotic to the spiritual, from the revolutionary to the artistic.

A desk is no place to think on a large scale.

An absolutely new prospect is a great happiness and I can still get this any afternoon.

Two or three hours’ walking will carry me to as strange a country as I expect ever to see.

A single farmhouse which I had not seen before is sometimes as good as the dominions of the King of Dahomey.

There is in fact a sort of harmony discoverable between the capabilities of the landscape and the threescore and ten years of human life.

It will never become quite familiar to you.

Henry David Thoreau

Above: Henry David Thoreau (1817 – 1862)

It is the unpredictable incidents between official events that add up to a life, the incalculable that gives it value.

Walking is about being outside, in public space, but public space is being abandoned and eroded, eclipsed by technologies and services that don’t require leaving home.

Outside has been shadowed by fear, for strange places are always more frightening than familiar ones, so the less one wanders the more alarming it seems, and so the fewer the wanderers the more lonely and dangerous it really becomes.

Above: Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust (Dutch edition)

The newer the place, the less public space.

Malls have replaced Main Street, the streets have no sidewalks, buildings are entered through the garage, City Hall has no plaza, and everywhere everything has walls and bars and gates.

Fear has created the landscape where to be a pedestrian is to be under suspicion.

Too many have forgotten that it is the random, the unscreened, that allows you to find what you didn’t know you were looking for.

And you don’t know a place until it surprises you.

Above: Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust (Spanish edition)

But we have come to a place in society where the road ends, where there is no public space and we have paved Paradise to put up a parking lot, a world where leisure is shrinking and being crushed under the anxiety to produce, where bodies are not in the world but indoors in transport and buildings.

We have gained speed and lost purpose.

When you give yourself to places, they give you yourself back.

The more you come to know a place, the more you seed it with an invisible crop of memories and associations that will be waiting for your return, while new places offer up new thoughts and new possibilities.

Walking came from Africa, from evolution, and from necessity.

It went everywhere, usually looking for something.

And this is the essence of walking, the search for something intangible.

Above: (in green) Africa

This is the essence of the pilgrimage, a literal means of spiritual journey, wherein the journey is more significant than the destination itself, for it is the journey that develops us spiritually.

Walking lets us be in that non-believer’s Paradise, that Heaven on Earth, nature.

To consider Earth holy is to connect the lowest and most material to the most high and ethereal, to close the breach between matter and spirit.

The world is holy and the sacred is underfoot rather than above.

The journey of the outside is also a journey within.

And there have been people in St. Gallen that remind me of the holy underfoot and the surprising compassion of those not out to earn their own “salvation” but who only seek to help others to find theirs.

Each time we are reunited, Augustin and I stroll through town.

He does not point out the attractions, but somehow I feel that I am seeing St. Gallen through his eyes and not my own.

His manner of expression lends majesty to the path upon which we walk.

Above: My friend Augustin

I have known Augustin for a decade when we were both employed at the Starbucks Bahnhof St. Gallen.

He is truly a remarkable man.

Augustin – a wonderful mix of French and African…

As welcoming to Switzerland as rain in the desert….

When I broke both my arms in 2018 and needed to be rehabilitated in Mammern – 26 miles / 42 km northwest of St. Gallen – he was my sole visitor (save my wife) who came out to visit me.

Everyone has busy lives and yet he found the time – made the time – to visit someone who should have given him, should still give him, more of his time and attention.

Above: Augustin and your humble blogger, Mammern, Switzerland, 2 June 2018

On 22 January 2022, after very little contact or communication between us, he invited me to his new apartment he shares with his lady love Laura and he cooked us a delicious dinner and continuously gave and gave to me whatever I might desire.

I left his apartment feeling humbled and honoured by the hospitality and love shown to me.

May I always be worthy.

Above: Laura and Augustin

Augustin is one of the hardest workers I have ever had the honour of working with.

He truly gives the adage “It is not the job that brings dignity to the man. It is the man who brings dignity to the job.” meaning.

He is one of those rare individuals who may not have always been blessed with the wealth that others take for granted, but he remains generous to a fault.

He came to Switzerland in dire straits.

He spoke truth to power and his homeland’s government desired to imprison him for his sacrilege.

He remains an exile from his home, from his loved ones there, until the politics therein, perhaps, one day, changes.

He has since become a Swiss citizen and, as such, acts responsibly, deserving of that privilege.

He has built a life for himself, has found a lady love and has achieved a happiness he so richly deserves, for he has gotten from the universe what he has given to it and fortune has rewarded him accordingly.

His is one of those friendships, like so many friendships this rolling stone has been miraculously been blessed with, that needs no reciprocation and yet rewards those who treat him with dignity and respect.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Augustin is my mirror.

I cannot even begin to guess the mind of another person, but perhaps the dignity and respect I have shown him compels him to show me the same.

Despite this, I get the feeling that he does not give in order to get.

He is not good (at least, to me) out of any expectation.

Nor do I get a sense of his feeling entitled to reciprocation.

(Unlike some I have known…..)

Augustin, the Augustin I know, is a man fit to be any other man’s role model of what a good person is, of what a good person can be.

I am blessed by his friendship.

Above: Augustin

Perhaps I should not be so surprised and touched when people are nice to me.

And yet I am, almost every time, when an act of human kindness touches my life.

I am even surprised when my own wife is kind to me, for we have had our differences over the years.

(My sojourn in Turkey has not helped the relationship.)

Like most men, I am probably undeserving of a good woman’s (or perhaps even a bad woman’s) love.

Above: The Wedding, Edmund Blair Leighton

I think of my last visit to Switzerland and the friends I encountered when I was there:

  • Volkan, assistant Starbucks store manager and talented singer, is a man of surprising depth at times.
  • Nesha, of Belgrade and Herisau, has always been a friend with whom I can share moments of laughter.
  • Naomi, Canadian from Vancouver and Starbucks barista, a woman torn between ambition and affection, is a woman who leads with her heart despite the misgivings of her head.
  • Alanna, Canadian from Nova Scotia, Starbucks shift manager and independent store operator, is one of the strongest women I know, whose will is as powerful as her beauty.
  • Katja is a woman whose wanderlust and passion for life matches my own.
  • Sinan is a young man whose maturity belies the youthfulness of his features, a good father, a good husband, a good friend.
  • Michael is a young man who reminds me of myself in my younger days, so confident in what he knows, still unaware that the passage of time will confirm that there will always be more we don’t understand, that the knowledge we do have is merely a beginning, that it is never the completion of all we need to know, he is a young man who in discovering the world discovers himself.
  • Sonja, former Starbucks store manager, now an independent vendor in the Luzern region, is always compassionate to me whenever we see one another.
  • Ricardo, former Starbucks store manager, is another friend who is easy to misjudge, but, at least with me, he has proven ready to assist me should I ask him.
  • Pedro, Starbucks store manager, started at Starbucks shortly after I did, but unlike me was determined to rise within its ranks, is a person I am proud to know, for despite his success he has always respected that I walk a different path than he does.
  • Ute, my wife, my life, is as part of my being as breathing, a woman who deserves far better than myself, but Karma is a tricky thing!

These are the few I was fortunate enough to see during my last visit.

There remain others that time and circumstance prevented our reunion.

I have been blessed by these and other friends (and family) in other places (Canada, Britain, Australia, New Zealand, America, Germany, Austria, Paraguay, Turkey).

Do others see these friends different than I see them?

Most assuredly.

Some of my friends may not even like other friends of mine.

What may be said of their lives outside of my experience of them I can neither confirm nor deny.

I only judge them by their actions towards me.

And it is by their actions that I know them.

It is their actions towards me that restores my faith in humanity and in life itself.

They are my religion, my sustenance, the very breath I take, the reason I live, the courage to love.

Friends offer enormous comfort.

They help to structure your time.

They show you that you belong and can be cared about.

A man who lacks a network of friends is seriously impaired from living his life, from having a life worth living.

A man’s friends alleviate the neurotic overdependence on a wife or a girlfriend for every emotional need.

If a man, going through a “rough patch”, gets help from his friends as well as his partner, then his burden is shared.

If his problems are with his partner (as they often are) then his friends can help him through, talk sense into him, stop him acting stupidly and help him to release his grief.

I do not believe that men are as inarticulate as women claim.

We are simply inexperienced.

Our inarticulateness (a trait not shared by all men) simply comes from a history with a lack of sharing opportunities.

Millions of women complain about their male partner’s lack of feeling, their woodenness.

Men themselves (and I include myself in this) often feel numb and confused about what they really want.

But if men talked to each other more, perhaps they would understand themselves better.

Then perhaps we would then have more to say to our wives or girlfriends.

Sometimes only a man can understand what another man is feeling.

The same can be said for the empathy between women.

Men’s voices have a different tone than women’s.

Our feelings have a different tone as well.

We have more than enough feelings, but we lack the experience or opportunity to express them.

What does not help is that men are put into a double bind by society at large.

We are asked to simultaneously be more intimate and sensitive and yet be tough when needed.

As if feelings within a man need be as flexible as shifting gears in a car.

A considerable skill not innately part of ourselves.

We are reserved in expression, for expression requires trust in those who may listen.

Can we express hurt?

Can we express frustration?

Without fear of censure?

Without others minimizing these feelings?

Without advice given?

Without competition?

Men feel, but fear of showing weakness prevents expression.

Men can be noisy and wild and still be safe.

What annoys me about society is the demand that men must prove that they are men.

Men have nothing to prove.

Let men judge themselves by their own standards.

A man should not be judged for the manner in which he conveniently accommodates women.

Women have their own struggles.

Men have theirs.

Equality between the genders is only possible if there is negotiation and fairness, non-threatening behaviour (from both genders), mutual respect, mutual trust and support, honesty and accountability (from both genders), shared responsibility and economic partnership.

They are “my North, my South, my East and West,
My working week and my Sunday rest,
My noon, my midnight, my talk, my song.

W.H. Auden

Above: Wystan Hugh Auden (1907 – 1973)

Time and distance often separates us, but while I think of them they remain ever close to my heart and are embedded in my soul.

If there is a God – and sometimes I think there just might be – then He manifests Himself in the manner in which He blesses our lives with our fellow human beings.

Everyone I meet has proven to be either a blessing or a lesson in my life.

I am humbled.

I am grateful.

Another friend once described me in the following way:

You are a walking/living contradiction.

Shy and timid on one extreme, courageous and adventurous on the other, extremely intelligent and yet naive at the same time…”

(I have been called worse!)

Do I contradict myself?
Very well then I contradict myself,
(I am large, I contain multitudes.)

Walt Whitman

Above: Walt Whitman (1819 – 1892)

I find myself remembering an old Facebook post I wrote during the days I travelled by train between Landschlacht and St. Gallen:

Above: Swiss Federal Railways network map

Normally I am unaffected by graffiti and undecided as to whether it should be viewed as an art form or as an act of vandalism.

But there is a graffiti scrawling on the wall of a factory (apple processing plant?) facing the railroad station of Neukirch-Egnach (between Romanshorn and St. Gallen) that always makes me smile for its powerful simplicity.

You are artwork.

Each and every one of us is a miracle, an artistic masterpiece.

Such a wise graffiti scrawl...

Heed the writing on the wall.

Above: Neukirch-Egnach Station, Switzerland

What a piece of work is man,

How noble in reason, how infinite in faculty,

In form and moving how express and admirable,

In action how like an angel,

In apprehension how like a god,

The beauty of the world,

The paragon of animals. 

Hamlet, Act 2, Scene ii, William Shakespeare

Above: Presumed portrait of William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

It is Easter Sunday, it is Passover, it is Ramadan.

I am merely a man.

Thank God.

Above: Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Reuters, “One dead in shooting at mosque in Switzerland“, 23 August 2014

Canada Slim and the Gates of Heaven

Eskişehir, Turkey, Saturday 9 April 2022 (Curmartesi 9 Nisan 2022 CE)(Ramadan 9, 1443 Anno Hegirae)

Strange days for me recently.

Turkey has entered into the 9th month of the Islamic calendar, Ramadan, with Turks all prepared to observe the month-long fast.

Mornings begin with drumming men marching down main streets before sunset.

The fasting, started in the early hours of Saturday 2 April, begins with a predawn meal named sahur and ends with iftar, the meal consumed after sunset.

Green lights appear on the local camii (mosque) to signal that iftar may begin.

On the first day of Ramadan, the eastern provinces of Iğdir and Hakkari had the earliest iftar at 1835 hours, while the northwestern provinces of Çanakkale and Edirne were the last to have iftar at 1946 hours.

Above: Ağri Mountain from Iğdir plain, Turkey

Above: Hakkari City, Turkey

Above: Waterfront, Çanakkale, Turkey

Above: Selimiye Mosque and the statue of architect Mimar Koca Sinan, Edirne, Turkey

Northern Sinop is the city that witnesses the longest time through Ramadan.

Believers in Sinop fasted for 14 hours 27 minutes on Saturday and will fast for 15 hours and 56 minutes on the last day of Ramadan.

Above: Sinop, Turkey

The southern province of Hatay has the shortest fasting time with 14 hours and 12 minutes on Saturday and will fast for 15 hours and 22 minutes on the last day of Ramadan.

Above: Bazaar, Antakya, Hatay Province, Turkey

The month of Ramadan will end on 30 April, following which Eid al-Fitr celebrations will start.

With the start of Ramadan, many nutritionists in Turkey have come to the forefront of public attention to give “safur and iftar tips” to fasting believers.

Above: Flag of Turkey

People should eat a protein-rich meal at sahur, mostly dairy products should be preferred.“, nutritionist Baran Mert told Demirören News Agency.

According to Mert, one should drink a minimum of two to two and a half litres of water between iftar and sahur.

When asked what to avoid at the start of iftar after hours of fasting, Mert said:

Believers should not eat continuously and rapidly after that.

I was recently asked by a friend whether or not I had a copy of the Qu’ran so he could begin to understand the religion that surrounds him, though his family back home is more interested in the Jewish and Christian sites of Asia Minor.

(I did.

I gave one to him.

Mosques that are tourist attractions often give away copies of the Qu’ran in various languages.

I have always believed that it is ignorant to criticize a religion if one is ignorant of that religion.

Kudos to my friend in seeking to understand the faith that surrounds him in his neighbourhood.)

He also asked if he need worry if he does not fast while Muslims around him do during Ramadan.

Ramadan is the 9th month of the Islamic calendar, observed by Muslims worldwide as a month of fasting (sawm), prayer, reflection and community.

A commemoration of Muhammad’s first revelation, the annual observance of Ramadan is regarded as one of the Five Pillars of Islam and lasts 29 to 30 days, from one sighting of the crescent moon to the next.

Above: “Muhammad, the Messenger of God” inscribed on the gates of the Prophet’s Mosque in Medina, Saudi Arabia

Fasting from dawn to sunset is fard (obligatory) for all adult Muslims who are not acutely or chronically ill, travelling, elderly, breastfeeding, diabetic or menstruating.

The predawn meal is referred to as suhur and the nightly feast that breaks the fast is called iftar.

Although fatwas have been issued declaring that Muslims who live in regions with a midnight sun or polar night should follow the timetable of Mecca, it is common practice to follow the timetable of the closest country in which night can be distinguished from day.

Above: Midnight sun, North Cape, Mageroya Island, Norway

The spiritual rewards (thawab) of fasting are believed to be multiplied during Ramadan.

Accordingly, Muslims refrain not only from food and drink, but also tobacco products, sexual relations and sinful behaviour, devoting themselves instead to salat (prayer) and recitation of the Qu’ran.

(As long as a man is not arrogant about feasting in the presence of those who fast, it is not expected for a non-Muslim to act like a Muslim – at least in this liberal city of Eskişehir – for the significance of the act of fasting can only appreciated by the practitioner of a religion that requires its faithful to fast.

If at this time a restaurant is open to serve customers, then guilt should not be felt if one acts like a customer.

If there is truly concern over what Muslims think, then do your feasting at home.)

Above: Neysen Tevfik Sokak, Eskişehir, Turkey

(It is odd that while other religions fast, during holy celebrations Christians feast.)

Above: Christmas dinner setting

From Magsie Hamilton Little’s The Thing about Islam: Exposing the Myths, Facts and Controversies:

The acts of prayer and pilgrimage help Muslims to focus on their spirituality, as well as binding them together by allowing them to join in a shared religious experience.

Likewise, fasting performs an equally fundamental role.

It is so important to Islam that the early Muslim theologian al-Ghazzali (1058 – 1111) described it as “one quarter of the Muslim faith“.

As such, the act of fasting is known as the 4th pillar of Islam.

It is not simply a matter of giving up food during the daytime.

It is a symbolic act, enabling Muslims to rid their systems of impurities on all levels and so become closer to God.

Above: Tomb of Imam Al-Ghazzali, Tus, Iran

God’s message to Muhammad was that fasting helps us to learn self-restraint.

It is an example set by the Prophet himself who, according to a famous hadith by Bukhari (810 – 870) that describes the frugality of Muhammad, would break his fast with a sip of water and a date.

To this day, many Muslims do the same.

Through the physical act of fasting, Muslims experience the deprivation that the poor bear throughout the year, thus hopefully becoming more sensitive and responsive to their suffering as a result.

This makes crash-dieting in the West, aimed at dropping a dress size in a few weeks, seem rather shameful.

Above: al-Bukhari Mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Ramadan, the month of the fast, whose name comes from the Arabic root r-m-d, “the great heat“, from the soaring heat in the deserts of Arabia, in the 9th month of the Muslim calendar.

Above: Arabian Desert

It is special for Muslims as it was during the month that Muhammad received the call to be a prophet.

God Himself instructed that it should be the official month of fasting, in a revelation received after the establishment of the community in Medina.

Although no one knows the exact date of this, in the early days of Islam fasting took place on the 10th day of Muharram.

This is still one of a number of days of voluntary fasting, but today Muhammad’s call to be a prophet is celebrated on 27th Ramadan.

This is a particularly significant night.

Many people stay at their local mosque until long into the night, reading the Qu’ran and praying.

It is thought by some that prayer at this time is particularly powerful, awarding more blessings than prayers at other times.

Above: Hira Cave, Jabal al-Nour Mountain, Saudi Arabia, where, according to Muslim belief, Muhammad received his first revelation

Ramadan is about remembering to take nothing for granted.

It is about removing daily distractions so the mind is better able to focus on closeness with Allah.

On a practical level, this means no eating, drinking, smoking or sex from dawn to sunset for the entire month.

In the wider scheme, while fasting it is especially encouraged that the believer avoids sin, such as lying, violence, greed, lust, slander, anger and evil thoughts.

The fact is about self-discipline.

A Muslim is called to make an extra effort to cultivate a more spiritual outlook.

The observance of Ramadan is regarded a source of blessing and not a time of trial.

Muslims generally look forward to this time of bodily and spiritual cleansing.

They do not view it as being arduous or a chore.

They hold it as a special period that brings them back in touch with the values at the heart of their faith.

They see it as a healthy time, during which rich foods are avoided and their digestive systems can be rested and cleansed.

At Ramadan, Muslims are given the opportunity to master all their natural appetites, mental, spiritual and physical.

It also allows them an opportunity to get together with friends and family, to share their food after the hour of sunset.

According to Islamic tradition, during this time the gates of Heaven are opened, the gates of Hell are closed and Satan is put into chains.

Hence fasting during Ramadan is considered 30 times better than at any other time, although many Muslims do fast at other times, some even on a weekly basis.

Ramadan observances do vary slightly from culture to culture, but most Muslims begin the fast, according to the Qu’ran‘s instruction, at the moment when dawn makes it possible to distinguish “a white thread from a black thread“.

They then break the fast as soon as possible at sunset, eating a light meal later in the evening, with perhaps a final light meal in the early pre-dawn hours before the next morning’s fast begins – but all this depends on local custom and personal preference.

The evening is a time of relaxation, of visiting, prayer and Qu’ran recitation.

Printed Qu’rans divide the text into 30 sections to facilitate reading the whole book during Ramadan.

Most Muslims accomplish this.

Sounds of recitation often punctuate the evening air.

Most individuals perform a voluntary salat (prayer) of 20 rak’as, called taraweeh, sometime after the 5th prescribed prayer of the day.

Most go to the mosque during the evening, especially during the last ten days of the month.

Muslims say that Ramadan demands a certain spiritual attitude towards the body.

The hunger, supplemented by the prohibition on perfume and makeup, brings a Muslim back every year to what is regarded as a more natural state.

Whether it be experiencing the hunger of the less fortunate, expiating one’s sins, forgiving others theirs, renewing contact with one’s nearest and dearest, or simply taming one’s passions, a time of fasting is about reflection and contemplation, a return to the core values of Islam and a reassessment of what it means to be a Muslim.

Since fasting can make people feel weary and weak, great care is taken over the type of food eaten during Ramadan.

The consumption of special dishes at this time dates back to the earliest Islamic days, varying according to culture and region.

In medical Islamic recipes harira is sometimes mentioned and described as being made out of milk, flour and fat, rather than being a broth.

Above: Ramadan Harira

Early Muslim scholars, such as Bukhari and ibn Hanbal, talk of harira made of flour with cooked milk and a broth generally made with bran and meat cut into small pieces and boiled in water.

Above: The Musnad of Imam Ahmad is one of the most famous and extensive hadith books.

(Ḥadīth in Islam refers to what the majority of Muslims believe to be a record of the words, actions, and the silent approval of the Prophet Muhammad as transmitted through chains of narrators.

In other words, the ḥadīth are transmitted reports about what Muhammad said and did.)

Above: Imam Nawawi’s 4th Hadith being taught, Sultan Hassan Mosque Madrassa, Cairo, Egypt

In the Muslim East, al-Baghdadi’s Kitab at-Tabikh, written in the 13th century, gives recipes for meat and flour dishes.

Above: Abd al-Latif al-Baghdadi (1162 – 1231)

In the Muslim West, Ibn Razi gives nine recipes for soups and eight for harira, based on bread reduced to fine crumbs or on moistened flour slowly poured and turned into a broth of plain water and salt with oil, egg or chicken, and flavouring ingredients, such as coriander, ginger, cinnamon, onions and garlic.

Above: Statue of Abu Bakr al-Razi, Persian Scholars Pavilion, United Nations Office, Vienna, Austria

Nowadays, other sweet fruits, such as dried figs and halwa, supplement the dates.

Above: Dried figs

Snacks are sometimes eaten between night-time meals, especially biscuits and tea or coffee.

A sign of the approach of Ramadan in the streets of North Africa is the transformation of doughnut merchants’ shops into delicious halwa stores, through home preparation of halwa is still very common.

Halwa consists of wheat flour, eggs, ground sesame, saffron, olive oil, butter, orange-flower water, vinegar, yeast and a pinch of salt.

These ingredients are mixed, energetically kneaded, allowed to rise, shaped, fried in oil and then soaked in honey before being drained and dusted with sesame seeds.

The resulting halwa is served with soup or with dry cakes and tea or coffee, as a snack.

Above: Halwa

In some cultures, such as in Morocco, special foods are prepared, including those of the s’hur, at which different kinds of pancakes are eaten.

Above: Flag of Morocco

Those of the ftur, harira or soups are used to break the fast.

On the eve of Ramadan, people prepare a honey cake to accompany the soup, known as halwa, sellou or zammita – sweet cereals and other dry cakes eaten as after-dinner snacks.

Similarly, in Afghanistan special sweets and pastries are prepared, such as halwa-e swanak, sheer payna and goash-e fil.

Stocks of these sweet foods are replenished during the 3rd or 4th week of the month.

S’hur marks the start of the fast, whereas Iftar ends it.

Above: Flag of Afghanistan

If Muslims follow Muhammad’s example during Ramadan, one would imagine their body weight to show evidence of it during Ramadan, one would imagine their body weight to show evidence of it by the end of the month.

However, the opposite is often the case.

Some Muslims actually put on weight, owing to the increased consumption of sugar in the dates and all the flour.

Forty years ago, the Iftar consisted of a bowl of soup preceded by “a sweet fruit, a small amount of honey or even just a mouthful of water“.

It was thought that that alone gave the strength of a light meal.

Ben Talha, writing in 1950, spoke of Muslims breaking their fast with toast with butter, or bread soaked in beaten eggs and cooked in butter, something like French toast.

Now, in some circles, Ramadan is an excuse to host lavish parties every night and taste exotic foods not sampled since the last Ramadan.

Whatever cultural variances exist between customs at Ramadan, overall the month is seen by Muslims as a very special time.

There is a feeling of camaraderie.

The fast is a great leveller and brings out the best in everyone, whether rich or poor.

I can say, from my extremely limited point-of-view and experience, that Eskişehir is fairly liberal in its observance of Ramadan.

Folks will or will not fast at this time, depending on the depth of their faith.

Those who feast during this time are not condemned.

Those who fast during this time are not ridiculed.

As a non-Muslim, I maintain the same dietary and non-observance of religious rites as I did before Ramadan arrived.

I respect those that do.

No one shows disrespect towards those who do not.

Above: Kanatli shopping centre, Kızılcıklı Sokak, Eskişehir

I was asked by a Turkish student whether or not I had a copy of the Holy Bible as he wished to understand the religion that so many Americans – our school is called Wall Street English after all – profess to practice.

Above: The Malmesbury Bible

(I did not.

My copies remain back in Switzerland.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Christian copy in Christian countries, Muslim material in Muslim countries.

Not such an intellectual exercise for a man who does not profess to follow any faith, though he respects the rights of those who do.)

Above: Auguste Rodin’s The Thinker, Paris, France

From Andrew Finkel’s Turkey: What Everyone Needs to Know:

Turkey is both a Muslim majority country and an avowed secular state.

Reconciling these two identities has proven complicated.

While Turkey lays claim to serving as a cultural ambassador between faiths in a post 9/11 world, its own domestic political agenda sometimes reflects the emotionally charged debate about the compatibility of Islam with democratic governance.

There is a divide between those who believe Islam is being manipulated by political forces to derail the Western orientation of the Turkish state and those who counter that this Islamic peril is a spectre raised by elements trying to cling to a very undemocratic influence and privilege.

Article 24 of the 1982 Constitution guarantees freedom of religion and conscience, but with the proviso that these freedoms do not threaten the integrity and secular character of the state.

At the same time, the Constitution implicitly recognizes faith as one of the bonds of citizenship by making religious and ethical instruction mandatory during primary and secondary education.

Islam in Turkey remains influenced by the Hanafi School, or what had been Ottoman orthodoxy – the oldest and arguably the most liberal of the four schools of Sunni jurisprudence.

Schools teach the practice rather than comparative religion.

Above: Suleymaniye Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

Turkey’s secularism is not so much a separation of mosque (Camii) and state as it is the state’s right to assert its primacy over religion.

The government still funds a huge religious establishment, the Presidency of Religious Affairs (DIB), which licences after-school Qu’ran courses, administers Turkey’s allotted pilgrimage quota for the Hadj, publishes books, and makes moral pronouncements.

While it does not build or maintain mosques, it does provide stipends for the nation’s clerics, who, in turn, are expected to preach a prepared message from the Friday pulpit.

Above: Selimiye Mosque, Edirne, Turkey

The DIB is, by its own admission, a much-modified version of the Ottoman religious authority, the Sheikh-ul-Islam.

Yet the Ottoman Empire was far from being a cleric-run theocracy.

Above: The Ottoman Empire at its greatest extent

Clerics were regarded as functionaries rather than divinely inspired.

A state bureaucracy worked to codify laws involving taxation, commerce, the military, agriculture and minority affairs – matters beyond the purview of religious law.

Religious or customary law has no status in the Republic of Turkey, having been replaced by a Swiss-inspired civil code.

However, the DIB can still set itself the ambitious project to codify the hadith, the orally transmitted tradition of the Prophet’s teachings, a project largely intended to confirm Islam’s compatibility with democratic values and universal rights.

Above: Şakirin Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

Osama bin Laden was among those who put his finger on the resulting anomalies.

In one of his infamous post 9/11 video appearances, he explained that he was out to avenge “eight decades of pain, humiliation and shame“.

Above: Osama bin Laden (1957 – 2011)

The reference, Turks grasped at once, was to the creation of the Republic in 1923 and to the decision of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk to plow salt into the notion of a religiously empowered state.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881 – 1938)

In Eskişehir and Istanbul, like many who had grown up during the early years of the Republic, there are many people who neither pray or keep a fast.

It is not that they are disrespectful of religion.

They are just indifferent to it.

Like many of their friends and acquaintances they explain their lack of interest for their love for Atatürk and their faith in the secular Republic.

Above: Ulus Monument, representing Mustafa Kemal Atatürk on top, Eskişehir

The 1924 abolition of the Caliphate – the leader of the world Islamic community and a role enjoyed by the Ottoman sultan – was a renunciation of an authority that could transcend the borders of the nation-state.

Moves like the outlawing of the self-governing religious orders were intended to prevent religious institutions and what today would be called “networks” from challenging the new regime.

Above: The last Caliph, Abdulmecid II (1868 – 1944)

The formal adoption of the Gregorian calendar, of Western-style timekeeping in place of “mosque time“, and indeed the whole tenor of Republican reforms were all premised on the view of Islam as an impediment to Turkey’s attempts to catch up with the West.

They were attempts to deconsecrate or secularize the totems of religious life.

Above: Pope Gregory XIII (1502 – 1585)

In 1930, a short-lived uprising led by a cleric in the Western town of Menemen (during which the local military commander’s head was cut off and paraded on a pole) was not a threat to the new regime so much as a challenge to its confidence that the population at large had signed onto its modernization project.

The Menemen Incident, or Kubilay Incident (Turkish: Kubilay Olayı or Menemen Olayı), refers to a chain of events which occurred in Menemen, a small town north of Izmir, on 23 December 1930.

Islamists rebelled against the secularization of Turkey by Atatürk and beheaded Mustafa Fehmi Kubilay, a teacher who was doing his military service and two other watchmen.

Above: Mustafa Fehmi Kubilay (1906 – 1930)

Following the signing of the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923, the Republican People’s Party of Turkey pursued a somewhat liberal policy towards Islam, promoting secularism while not taking a hard line against Islamic institutions and practices, believing that the secularism of their ideology was already taking root.

Above: Borders of Bulgaria, Greece and Turkey set by the Treaty of Lausanne

Above: Palais de Rumine, Lausanne, Switzerland, where the Treaty was settled

This confidence was shaken on 23 December 1930, when Dervish Mehmet Efendi (Cretan Mehmet), a member of the Naqshbandi (Turkish: Nakşibendi) order, created a protest by rallying an armed crowd against the policies of the secular government and calling for the restoration of sharia and the Caliphate.

On the morning of 23 December 1930, six people, four of whom were armed, came to Menemen from Manisa, planted the green banner they had taken from a mosque in the district square after the morning prayer and tried to gather people around them at gunpoint.

With the participation of the public, the rebel group soon grew. 

The activists said that they came to protect religion. 

Mehmet boasted that behind them was the army of the Caliph, 70,000 strong.

Those who did not gather under the banner of sharia before noon would be put to the sword. 

A squad of soldiers from the local garrison was sent to quell the demonstration.

When the incidents were heard by the military unit in the district, the regimental commander sent reserve officer Kubilay to the scene with a squad of soldiers. 

Kublai left the soldiers and met the activists alone and tried to persuade them to surrender. 

One of the armed activists shot and injured Kubilay. Derviş Mehmet, one of the ringleaders, said, “There is no bullet in me.” He tried to convince the people that he had a sacred duty.

Seeing this one of the soldiers fired (using wooden bullets that had no lethal effect) upon the demonstrators and a riot ensued.

Mehmet said:

There is no bullet in me.” 

He tried to convince the people that he had a sacred duty.

Mehmet shouted:

Those who wear hats are kaffirs.

We will return to sharia soon.

Above: Dervish Mehmet Efendi (d. 1931)

Wounded, Kubilay took refuge in the courtyard of the mosque, but Mehmet and his friends followed him. 

Mehmet opened his bag, took out a saw-edged vineyard knife and separated Kubilay’s head from his body, then his severed head was placed on a pole with a green flag and paraded through town.

Above: Martyr Kubilay Memorial in Menemen, İzmir –
The monument of the Menemen Incident features a tall sculpture by Ratip Asir Acudogu which was erected in 1932.
The Kubilay Memorial is a part of Kubilay Barracks, but is open to the public.
The area is landscaped and illuminated at night.
A military honor guard stands continuous watch at the memorial site, which contains the graves of several Turkish soldiers who were killed in the line of duty.
In the aftermath 28 people were hanged by the neck.
It is written on the monument: 
They believed, they fought, they died.
We are the guardians of the trust they left.

Two municipal watchmen, Bekçi Hasan and Bekçi Şevki, were also killed by the demonstrators.

Several rioters were also killed.

Upon hearing Kubilay’s murder by Islamists, Atatürk proclaimed:

Thousands from Menemen didn’t prevent this, instead joined with tekbirs.

Where were these traitors during Greek occupation?”.

The Turkish government expressed their shock over the people of Menemen not reacting to things like the Meneman massacre as harsh as they did to secularization.

The perpetrators of the rebellion including Cretan Mehmet, Cretan Ibrahim, Mehmet of Damascus, Sütçü Mehmet Emin, Nalıncı Hasan and Little Hasan were killed or otherwise punished.

Above: Menemen

The new republican government of Turkey was shocked by the demonstration of religious fervor and by how readily it was embraced by some Turks, as it was completely antithetical to secularism.

A state of emergency was declared and courts-martial were established which meted out sentences ranging from death at the gallows or life imprisonment to one year’s confinement.

There were also several acquittals. 

Sufi members were arrested around the country.

Furthermore, it demonstrated that secularism was taking hold neither as quickly nor as deeply as the government would have liked.

This spurred the government to action.

They began more aggressive secularization reforms in response to the Menemen Incident.

The government carried out this policy by attempting to nationalise Islam through performing the Adhan (Turkish: Ezan)(“call to prayer“), in Turkish rather than Arabic.

The government furthered secularization in schools by having the Quran translated from Arabic into Turkish and read to the people on the radio and in the mosques in Turkish.

These attempts reflected a comprehensive effort by the government to remove Islamic influences and entrench nationality over religion in Turkish culture.

These efforts also showed a larger attempt on the part of the government to consolidate Turkish traditions and promote a Turkish identity to replace a dominantly Muslim one, as in the Ottoman Empire people were identified by the millet system according to their religion rather than ethnicity.

These were done to replace the last vestiges of nostalgia for the abolished Caliphate and the broken-up Ottoman Empire in the aftermath of World War I (1914 – 1918).

Above: Coat of arms of the Ottoman Empire

The Incident helped confirm in the Republican imagination that religion was counter-revolutionary and needed to be monitored and contained.

The 2nd President of Turkey İsmet İnönü said:

Kublai is an example of idealist patriotism that does not calculate power alone for the sake of the revolution, for the sake of patriotism and unity. 

Kubilay is an exceptional monument of the traditional Turkish nature, who is ready to sacrifice his life for the nation at any moment.

Above: İsmet İnönü (1884 – 1973)

7th President Kenan Evren wrote:

The Kublai Incident had a great impact on me and my classmates.

Because the brutal martyrdom of a young officer would of course affect us.

I was under the influence of this for a long time.

They said that the perpetrators of this massacre were caught and they were waiting for the train at the station.

We went to the station.

I saw the traitors who martyred him and Kubilay there.

It left such a deep impression on me that I started painting with a pencil at that time.

I made my first painting with Kubilay’s painting.

I remember it and it was a beautiful painting.

I wish I had kept it.

If only he had stayed with me as a memory.

Above: Kenan Evren (1917 – 2015)

Above: Republic Square, Menemen, Izmir Province, Turkey

Even so, the anticlericalism of the nation’s founders began to soften in the postwar multiparty era as Atatürk’s top-down modernization was replaced with top-down democratization.

In the 1950s there was greater tolerance for Islam – including the reopening of mosques and schools of divinity – and the government allowed mosques to resume the practice of summoning the faithful to prayer in Arabic rather than in Turkish.

Although the core Republic guard saw this as pandering to populist sentiment, later it was the military itself – during the period of martial law (1980 – 1983) – which viewed religion as a force of social cohesion and made religious instruction compulsory.

The rationale for the coup had been the violent street warfare between gangs of left-wing and nationalist youths.

Religious radicalism was regarded as something of a spent force and the military hoped to co-opt Sunni Islam into propping up old-fashioned nationalism.

The result was a worldview known as the “Turkish-Islamic synthesis“.

Above: Kocatepe Mosque, Ankara, Turkey

The success of the overtly Islamist Welfare Party (1983 – 1998) in the 1994 local elections and in general elections the following year obliged the military to doubt the wisdom of their benign view of religion.

Above: Welfare Party logo

This was the election that launched the career of Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, who was to prove the military’s most able foe and who was able to maneuver his AK Party into the political mainstream.

The AK Party repackaged its commitment to Islam as a question of private conscience and democratic choice.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Is Turkey in danger of becoming a fundamentalist state?

The question is one often posed by those who fear that Islam is the main obstacle to Turkey’s fuller integration into the West or that it prevents the country from achieving its goal of full democracy.

The more alienating force is a crude nationalism that in the past has served as a cover for government corruption and political/economic isolationism.

Yet many nonetheless fear that Turkish society is becoming a Kulturkampf (cultural battle) between rival secular and Islamic-oriented elites.

Above: Ahmet Hamdi Akseki Mosque, Ankara, Turkey

The most obvious antidote to polarization is the ability of a population to accommodate and thrive from diversity.

Some women wear headscarves, some have piercings, some have both.

In 2012, around 65% of Turks were teetotalers.

Those who indulge can choose from an increasing array of wines from boutique vineyards that have become the passion and playthings of a Western-oriented elite.

Above: Wine-producing regions in Turkey

For example, the residents of the conservative Central Anatolian city of Kayseri joke about those who attend Friday prayers but leave for a weekend at the nearby tourist hotspots of Cappadocia, much in the way the burghers of Philadelphia once made for Atlantic City on a Saturday night to evade the ban of selling alcohol in the early hours of Sunday.

Above: Kayseri beneath Mount Erciyes, Turkey

Above: İbrahimpaşa panorama, Cappadocia, Turkey

Above: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA

Above: Atlantic City, New Jersey, USA

Turkey still regards itself as a home of the world’s revealed religions and actively promotes “faith tourism“, hoping to attract millions of visitors to religious monuments and sites.

Above: Regions in Turkey for religious tourism

The Archbishop of Constantinople (the Ecumenical Patriarch) is the first among equals of the 300 million adherents of the Orthodox faith worldwide.

The title dates back to the 6th century.

The present incumbent still celebrates liturgy in the Church of St. George by the shores of the Golden Horn.

Above: His All Holiness Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew I

Above: Church of St. George, Istanbul, Turkey

Castles and churches of the medieval Armenian kingdoms are scattered through eastern Turkey and the seat of the Armenian Patriarchate has, since 1461, been in Istanbul.

Above: Armenian Patriarchate of Constantinople, Istanbul, Turkey

The Roman city of Sardis near the Aegean contains the restored remains of a 3rd century synagogue.

Above: Sardis Synagogue

The Arhida Synagogue in Istanbul remains active more than 500 years after it was first built.

Above: Ahrida Synagogue, Istanbul, Turkey

Guidebook in hand, one can visit the basilicas of the Eastern churches, including Chaldean Catholic churches and Assyrian monasteries where the liturgical language is ancient Aramaic.

Above: Mar Petyun Chaldean Catholic Church, Diyarbakir, Turkey

Above: Assyrian Patriarchal Church of Mar Shalita, Qudshanis, Hakkâri Province, Turkey

Though still functioning, these monuments to Anatolia’s multi-confessional past are at best vestigial.

The communities they serve have barely survived a 20th century legacy of nationalist upheavals and subsequent exodus.

Turkish-born non-Muslims now account for less than 1% of the current population.

Above: Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

There is a gap between the rhetoric of tolerance and the actual practice.

Opinion surveys commonly report individuals’ reluctance to live next to people of faiths different than their own.

However, there are not that many non-Muslims to put this abstract prejudice to the test.

One might expect, to take a nonreligious example, that there would be much greater tension between Kurdish and non-Kurdish communities, particularly during periods when the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK) has been on a violent campaign.

Above: Flag of the PKK

While it would be foolish to deny prejudice exists, dire prophecies of intercommunal tensions between Turk and Kurd simply have not materialized.

Perhaps a common faith remains a unifying force.

To inject a personal note, one of the most attractive features of living in Turkey as a foreigner is the quality of respect and civility that invests the exchanges of everyday life.

It would, therefore, be unwise to see discrimination against non-Muslims as a function of an increasing Islamization of Turkish society or of an ascendancy of the AK Party rather than as a part of the nationalist legacy.

Above: Justice and Development Party (AK) logo

The Greek Orthodox community has also been the victim of tit-for-tat retaliation over the treatment of Turkish communities in Eastern Greece or in Cyprus.

Above: Flag of the Greek Orthodox Church

If anything, religious minorities have benefitted from the greater openness that the AK Party requests on behalf of its own mainstream constituents.

The unease that Turkey feels about allowing full expression of other faiths stems in part from its own insecurities about Islam.

Above: Kocatepe Camii (mosque), Ankara, Turkey

An interesting case is the Orthodox seminary on Heybeli Island off the coast of Istanbul, which served as a private and therefore illegal institution of higher education.

It closed in 1971.

This is of great concern to the Patriarchate, which relies on the institution to train future clergy.

Since then, the door has been opened to private universities albeit under the supervision of the Board of Higher Education – a solution that the Orthodox Church cannot accept.

This has led to an impasse that, in turn, has become a diplomatic embarrassment.

The fate of Halki is often on the agenda when Turkish statesmen travel abroad.

Above: Halki Theological School, Hill of Hope, Heybeli Island, Turkey

It has been the subject of resolutions from both houses of the US Congress.

The real problem is not that the government wants the school to remain shut, but rather that if it allowed priests to be trained to institutions outside its control, it would come under pressure to extend that same right to “unlicensed” courses in Islam.

Above: Emblem of Turkey

Not all Islam in Turkey is mainstream.

Above: Sabanci Merkez Camii, Adana, Turkey

There is a sizeable Alevi community.

Above: Alevis Islam in Turkey

Alevi is a form of Shi’ite Islam, but unlike in Iran, where Shi’ism has reinforced a theocratic orthodoxy, Alevis have been part of a culture of dissent in Turkey.

Above: Flag of Iran

Their faith incorporates elements of mysticism and folk religion and exhibits an indifference to many of the practices associated with mainstream Islam – including obligatory fasting during the month of Ramadan or even the pilgrimage to Mecca.

Above: Hadj pilgrims around the Kaaba, Mecca, Saudi Arabia

Alevis are sometimes regarded as the front line in the defence of Turkish secularism inasmuch as they are treated with condescension or at best are overlooked by the religious establishment.

Many Alevis resent seeing their taxes going to support that establishment or a school system that teaches a variant of a faith very different from what they practice at home.

Indeed, one could argue that they have long been the victim of the intolerance which Turkish secularists fear may one day rebound on themselves.

Above: Haci Bektas Veli (1248 – 1337) was a mystic, humanist and a philosopher who lived in Anatolia (Central-Turkey). His teachings had great impact on the Anatolian cultures. He is known for his humanistic teachings and mystic personality.

At the same time, it would be wrong to gloss over the mutual suspicion between those adopting a pious lifestyle and those who adhere to a more latitudinarian one.

Both have reason to fear the other’s intolerance.

Commentators speak of the informal “neighbourhood pressure” and of an ascendancy forcing people to conform to mores they might not choose themselves.

Turkish secularists wonder whether they will be made to wait on the wrong side of the barriers they themselves erected.

Historically it is the pious who have been excluded from public life.

Above: Sultan Ahmed Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

The answer to those who worry that the AK Party is a fundamentalist party in liberal clothing is that it has been in office since 2002 and has had ample time to show its hand.

There is evidence that it believes it has the mandate to legislate on issues of private morality and enforce more strictly those laws and ordinances that already exist.

However, it seems unlikely that any Turkish government would make a sudden move that would excite opinion both at home and abroad.

Above: Parliament of Turkey

In 2004, President Erdoğan did propose making adultery a felony.

He backtracked precisely when the ensuing uproar began to affect Turkey’s attempt to get a seat at the EU negotiating table.

Above: Seal of the President of Turkey

In fact, adultery had been illegal in Turkey, but the law governing it was declared unconstitutional in 1996 because it applied a far stricter standard for women (mere infidelity) than for men (taking a mistress).

The never-enacted law apparently was intended not to tame philandering modernists, but to discipline pious men who thought themselves entitled to take on additional partners, sanctioned by Islamic law but not by civil code.

Legislation came into effect in 2011 that has made it more difficult to serve alcohol at some types of events or for alcohol firms to sponsor sporting events.

These restrictions, as well as higher taxes on alcohol, were justified on grounds of public health and not morality.

The AK government is equally anti-smoking.

However, its general disapproval of alcohol is seen by secularists as the not-so-thin edge of the wedge.

The pious may be against the consumption of alcohol, but they show no sign of being against consumption per se.

Turkish sociologists talk about a newly empowered Islamic bourgeoisie.

Islamic (i.e. “non-interest” or “participation“) banking in 2010 accounted for a mere (and static) 4% of total banking assets.

There is scant public discussion concerning the morality of credit cards or bank interest.

One reason to doubt that there will be a sudden “majoritarian” imposition of an Islamic regime is that there is no groundswell of people who see a major incompatibility of their faith and the life they are already living.

(Islamic bankingIslamic finance or Sharia-compliant finance is banking or financing activity that complies with Sharia (Islamic law) and its practical application through the development of Islamic economics.

Some of the modes of Islamic banking/finance include: 

  • Mudarabah (profit-sharing and loss-bearing)
  • Wadiah (safekeeping)
  • Musharaka (joint ventures)
  • Murabahah (profit markup)
  • Ljara (leasing)

Above: Housing Bank, Amman, Jordan

Sharia prohibits riba (usury), interest paid on all loans of money.

Investment in businesses that provide goods or services considered contrary to Islamic principles (e.g. pork or alcohol) is also haram (“sinful and prohibited“).

These prohibitions have been applied historically in varying degrees in Muslim countries/communities to prevent un-Islamic practices.

In the late 20th century, as part of the revival of Islamic identity, a number of Islamic banks formed to apply these principles to private or semi-private commercial institutions within the Muslim community.

Their number and size has grown, so that by 2009, there were over 300 banks and 250 mutual funds around the world complying with Islamic principles, and around $2 trillion was Sharia-compliant by 2014

Sharia-compliant financial institutions represented approximately 1% of total world assets, concentrated in the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) countries, Pakistan, Iran and Malaysia. 

Above: Islamic Banking and Finance Institute, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Although Islamic banking still makes up only a fraction of the banking assets of Muslims, since its inception it has been growing faster than banking assets as a whole, and is projected to continue to do so.

The industry has been lauded for returning to the path of “divine guidance” in rejecting the “political and economic dominance” of the West, and noted as the “most visible mark” of Islamic revivalism, its most enthusiastic advocates promise “no inflation, no unemployment, no exploitation and no poverty” once it is fully implemented.

However, it has also been criticized for failing to develop profit and loss sharing or more ethical modes of investment promised by early promoters, and instead selling banking products that “comply with the formal requirements of Islamic law“, but use “ruses and subterfuges to conceal interest“, and entail “higher costs, bigger risks” than conventional (ribawi) banks.)

Above: Saba Islamic Bank, Djibouti City, Djibouti

On the whole, it would be absurd to see mosques as providing an underground network of dissent.

Some women do complain that their religious headscarf subjects them to discrimination.

However, their principal demand – akin to that of the American civil rights movement – is to be accepted into the mainstream rather than to overthrow the existing order.

Women who wear headscarves are often reluctant to see their own fight in the context of a larger battle for human rights – for example, the right to be educated in Kurdish – presumably because this would recast their demands in a far more radical light.

Indeed one could make a convincing argument that religion, far from presenting a threat to the Republic, has proved to be a safety valve and a force of social integration during an intense period of urbanization.

Above: Atatürk and an old woman in chador

This is reflected in the proliferation of mosques, though their construction is not state-funded.

In 1990, well before commentators suspected Turkey of lurching to the religious right, 1,500 mosques were being built every year – at a far brisker rate than new schools.

For the most part these buildings are replicas of 16th century classical architecture, with slender minarets and cascading domes.

In this sense, they parallel the Gothic style churches that were a feature of the post-Industrial Revolution neighbourhoods of Victorian Britain, evoking the sacrament of history to celebrate not just God but the foundation of community.

Above: Wells Cathedral, England

This has particular resonance in Turkey, where communities were often built in defiance of planning procedure and through the quasi-legal occupation of public land.

Mosques were buildings that authorities would think twice about before tearing down.

It is not just the tenacity of religion that has taken secularists by surprise, but its ability to adapt to modernity and itself become a vehicle of change.

Not so far away from Eskişehir, deep in the Western Taurus Mountains of Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, along ancient Roman roads and shepherds’ tracks, live the ghosts of Christianity’s St. Paul and his followers.

Above: Demirkazik Crest, Aladağ Mountains, Niğde Province, Turkey

Between Perge / Aspendos and Antioch lies a wealth of undiscovered, beautiful countryside, with canyons, waterfalls, cedar forests, limestone peaks soaring to almost 3,000 metres, and the exquisitely blue waters of Lake Eğirdir, Turkey’s 4th largest and most beautiful lake.

Above: Eğirdir Lake

Turkey’s tourist image couldn’t be further away from the setting of the St. Paul Walk with its lakes, mountains and canyons.

Above: St. Paul’s Walk

Most holidaymakers coming to Turkey aim for the Aegean and Mediterranean coastlines or for Istanbul.

Above: The “Turkish Riviera” by the Aegean Sea

Above: Istanbul tram

I am a walker who has always been intrigued by the notion of pilgrimages – where the object is not rest and recreation or to get away from it all – that set out to throw down a challenge to everyday life where nothing matters but the adventure.

Where the journey is far more important than the destination.

Where one follows the advice of Confucius to:

  • Practice the arts of attention and listening
  • Practice renewing yourself every day
  • Practice meandering toward the centre of every place
  • Practice the ritual of reading sacred texts
  • Practice gratitude and the singing of praise

Above: The teaching Confucius (551 – 479 BCE)

pilgrimage is a journey, often into an unknown or foreign place, where a person goes in search of new or expanded meaning about their self, others, nature, or a higher good, through the experience.

It can lead to a personal transformation, after which the pilgrim returns to their daily life.

Above: Flemish pilgrim, David Teniers the Younger (1610 – 1690)

God willing and time and money permitting I would love to walk St. Paul’s Trail or follow St. James’ Way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain or hike the Via Francigena all the way to Rome, or visit the Holy Land.

Above: St. James Way

Above: Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, Spain

Above: Pilgrims to Rome, Fidenza Cathedral, Italy

Above: Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem, Israel – The purported site of Christ’s resurrection

Above: Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem – Islam’s first direction of prayer before Mecca

Above: Al-Aqsa Mosque, Jerusalem – Purported site of Muhammad’s ascension to Heaven

Above: Temple Mount, Jerusalem – Purported site of Solomon’s Temple

Above: The Wailing (or Western) Wall, Jerusalem – Purported remains of the Holy Temple of Judaism

Though I am remote from ever being labelled one of Christ’s followers or Jehovah’s Chosen People.

Being a non-Muslim I cannot enter the city of Mecca, but I avidly search for accounts of those who have retraced the steps of Muhammed, who have gone on a Hadj.

And pilgrimages are not limited to Abrahamic religions.

Above: Portrait of the Patriarch Abraham, from whom Judaism, Christianity and Islam originate

Sikhs go to Amritsar, Taoists make the Mazu pilgrimage across Taiwan, Zoroastrians visit the fire temples in Iran, Hindus bathe in holy rivers, and Buddhists travel from Buddha’s birthplace in Nepal to his final resting place in India.

Above: Sikh pilgrim at the Golden Temple, Amritsar, India

Above: Mazu Pilgrim Path, Taiwan

Above: Yazd Atash Behram, Iran (Zoroastrian fire temple)

Above: Hindu pilgrims along the Ganges River, India

Above: World Peace Pagoda, Lumbini, Nepal

We grant a divine meaning to this ordinary Earth and seek the meaning of life beyond our understanding.

I would be content as a heathen to understand how faith fuels the fervor of so many around the globe.

Islam is the largest religion in Turkey according to the state, with 99% of the population being initially registered by the state as Muslim, for anyone whose parents are not of any other officially recognised religion and the remaining 0.1% are Christians or adherents of other officially recognised religions like Judaism.

Due to the nature of this method, the official number of Muslims includes people with no religion, as well as converted people and anyone who is of a different religion from their Muslim parents, but has not applied for a change of their individual records.

(By this definition, technically I am Muslim?)

The records can be changed or even blanked on the request of citizen, by filing an e-government application since May 2020, using a valid electronic signature to sign the electronic application. 

Any change in religion records additionally results in a new ID card being issued.

Any change in religion record also leaves a permanent trail in the census record, however, record of change of religion is not accessible except for the citizen in question, next-of-kin of the citizen in question, the citizenship administration and the courts.

Turkey is officially a secular country with no official religion since the constitutional amendment in 1928 and later strengthened by Atatürk’s reforms and the appliance of laicism (which prohibits government influence in the determination of religion) by the country’s founder and first president Mustafa Kemal Atatürk on 5 February 1937.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

However, currently all primary and secondary schools hold mandatory religion classes which mostly focus on the Sunni sect of Islam, though other religions are also covered briefly.

In these classes, children are required to learn prayers and other religious practices which belong specifically to Sunnism.

Above: Muslim denominations

Thus, although Turkey is officially a secular state, the teaching of religious practices in public grade schools has been controversial.

Its application to join the European Union (EU) divided existing members, some of which questioned whether a Muslim country could fit in.

Turkish politicians have accused the country’s EU opponents of favoring a “Christian club“.

Above: European Union flag

Above: (in green) The European Union

Beginning in the 1980s, the role of religion in the state has been a divisive issue, as influential religious factions challenged the complete secularization called for by Kemalism and the observance of Islamic practices experienced a substantial revival.

In the early 2000s, Islamic groups challenged the concept of a secular state with increasing vigor after Recep Tayyip Erdoğan’s Islamist-rooted Justice and Development Party (AKP) came into power in 2002.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

(Kemalism is sweeping political, social, cultural and religious reforms designed to separate the new Turkish state from its Ottoman predecessor and embrace a Western-style modernized lifestyle, including the establishment of secularism / laicism, state support of the sciences, free education, and many more.

Most of these reforms were first introduced to, and implemented in Turkey during Atatürk’s presidency.)

Above: Flag of the Republican People’s Party, showing the Six Arrows of Kemalism

It has been fervor of faith that has transformed the politics of Turkey since Andrew Finkel’s abovementioned 2012 book was published.

One of the most prominent faith movements existent in 2012 was founded by the charismatic preacher Fetullah Gülen.

Above: Fetullah Gülen, 2016

The movement – now designated a terrorist organization by Turkey, Pakistan and the Gulf States – that bears Gülen’s name managed to prosper less through sermons in the mosque and more through the media, think tanks and NGOs, financial services, commercial enterprises, and even universities.

The Gülen Movement created a huge network of nonreligious private and charter schools in Turkey as well as in over 100 other countries.

These schools were far more emissaries of Turkish culture – a privately financed form of public diplomacy – than centres of Islam.

In this they were the mirror image of elite foreign language high schools (German, French, Italian and English) in Turkey itself and have become vehicles for Turkish commercial penetration into parts of the world once beyond its reach.

The schools provided a high standard of education and were particularly popular in the former Soviet Union because of their discipline and teetotaling teachers.

Preaching, where it existed, was very much an afterschool activity.

Gülen himself advocated an “alternative” modernity that involved a very explicit rejection of the proposition that Islam is incompatible with contemporary life.

His Islam, though culturally conservative, had an emotional appeal as well as a mystic component that made it different from a fundamentalist state religion.

Gülen-associated institutions were active participants in interfaith dialogue.

Above: Fetullah Gülen

In 2012 the size of Gülen’s following was difficult to estimate.

Three million was a frequently cited figure.

Time magazine put the figure as high as 6 million.

The Movement had huge influence.

Zaman, the house newspaper of the Movement, was among Turkey’s largest circulating dailies and actively supported the AK Party government.

Above: Typical front page of Zaman (1986 – 2016)

By contrast, it did not back its predecessor, the Welfare Party, which had a much narrower, anti-Western and Muslim Brotherhood feel.

Above: Flag of the Muslim Brotherhood, whose aim is the establishment of a Sharia-based state

Some saw the Gülen Movement as the Islamic incarnation of Calvinism – a belief system that embodies the spirit of capitalism and legitimizes itself through the worldly success of its adherents.

Above: Jean Cauvin (aka John Calvin) (1509 – 1564)

Others believed that Gülen and those who sheltered under his banner tried to create “sleeper cells” within the bureaucracy and particularly within the police.

That the “Master Teacher” (Hoca Efendi), as Gülen has been respectfully called, has spent more than two decades in exile on an estate in Pennsylvania has only made him a more shadowy and sinister figure.

The suspicion is that he owes his allegiance not to where he grew up but where he eats.

Above: Fetullah Gülen

(Ergenekon was the name given to an alleged clandestine, secular ultra-nationalist organization in Turkey with possible ties to members of the country’s military and security forces. 

The would-be group, named after Ergenekon, a mythical place located in the inaccessible valleys of the Altay Mountains, was accused of terrorism in Turkey.

Ergenekon was by some believed to be part of the “deep state“.

The existence of the “deep state” was affirmed in Turkish opinion after the Susurluk Scandal in 1996.)

(The Susurluk Scandal (Susurluk kazası) was a scandal involving the close relationship among the deep state in Turkey (an alleged group of influential anti-democratic coalitions within the politics of Turkey composed of high-level elements within the intelligence services (domestic and foreign), the Turkish military, security agencies, the judiciary and mafia), the Grey Wolves (a Turkish far right organization and movement commonly described as ultra-nationalistic, Islamic fundamentalist extreme and neo-fascist youth organization which claims to be a cultural and educational foundation) and the Turkish mafia (the general term for criminal organizations based in Turkey and/or composed of (former) Turkish citizens).

Above: Logo of the Grey Wolves

It took place during the peak of the Kurdish-Turkish conflict, in the mid-1990s.

The relationship came into existence after the National Security Council (NSC) posited the need for the marshaling of the state’s resources to combat the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK).

Above: Headquarters of the National Security Council, Ankara, Turkey

The scandal surfaced with a car – truck collision on 3 November 1996, near Susurluk, in the province of Balikesir.

Above: Scene of the Susurluk car crash

The victims included the deputy chief of the Istanbul Police Department Huseyin Kocadağ, Member of Parliament Sedat Bucak, and Abdullah Çatli, the leader of the Grey Wolves and a contract killer for the National Intelligence Organization (Turkey’s equivalent to the CIA)(MİT), who was on Interpol’s red list at the time of his death.

The Susurluk car crash took place on 3 November 1996.

It resulted in the death of three of the passengers: 

  • Abdullah Çatli, a former ultra-rightist militant wanted by police for multiple murders and drug trafficking 
  • Huseyin Kocadağ, a senior police official
  • beauty queen Gonca Uş (Çatlı’s girlfriend)

MP Sedat Bucak escaped with a broken leg and fractured skull.

The peculiar associations of the crash victims and their links with Interior Minister Mehmet Agar led to a number of investigations, including a parliamentary investigation, of what became known as the Susurluk scandal.

Above: Mehmet Ağar

The state had been engaged in an escalating low intensity conflict with the PKK since 1984.

The conflict escalated in the early 1990s.

Towards the end of 1992, a furious debate in the NSC about how to proceed was taking place.

Moderates, like President Turgut Özal and General Eşref Bitlis, favoured a non-military solution.

However, both died in 1993.

Above: Turgut Özal (1927 – 1993)

The death of Bitlis (the General Commander of the Turkish Gendarmerie at the time) in a plane crash remains controversial.

Above: Eşref Bitlis (1933 – 1993)

The same year, the NSC ordered a co-ordinated black operations campaign using special forces. 

Then-Deputy Prime Minister Tansu Çiller tasked the police force, then under the leadership of Mehmet Ağar, with crippling the PKK and assassinating its leader, Abdullah Öcalan.

Above: Tansu Çiller

Above: Abdullah Öcalan

Turkish authorities had claimed that security officers, politicians and other authorities who had been involved in drug trafficking were initially tasked with preventing the Turkish mafia and the PKK from profiting from illegal activities, but that these officials then captured the business and fought over who would control it.

Intelligence expert Mahir Kaynak described the police camp as “pro-European“, and the MİT camp as “pro-American“.

Above: Seal of the Turkish National Intelligence Organization (MIT)

The authorities pocketed billions of dollars in profits from the drug smuggling.

This illegal activity on the state’s part was partly motivated, or at least justified as such, by the tens of billions of dollars in loss of trade with Iraq due to the Gulf War.

Above: Gulf War (1990 – 1991) images

To put this into perspective, the Turkish heroin trade, then worth $50 billion, exceeded the state budget of $48 billion.

(Other sources quote the 1998 budget as $62 billion and the drug market as $70 billion, though only a fraction of this was tapped as commission.)

Above: Black tar heroin

Although Ağar and Çiller resigned after the scandal, no one received any punitive sentences.

Ağar was eventually re-elected to Parliament (as a leader of the True Path Party, DYP), and the sole survivor of the crash, chieftain Sedat Bucak, was released.

Above: Logo of the True Path Party (1983 – 2007)

Some reforms were made:

The intelligence agency was restructured to end infighting.

Some hold that the scandal was made possible by the wresting of control of the MİT away from the Turkish military in 1992.)

Above: Emblem of the Turkish Armed Forces

(Alleged members of Ergenekon had been indicted on charges of plotting to foment unrest, among other things by assassinating intellectuals, politicians, judges, military staff, and religious leaders, with the ultimate goal of toppling the incumbent government.

By April 2011, over 500 people had been taken into custody and nearly 300 formally charged with membership of what prosecutors described as “the Ergenekon terrorist organization“, which they claimed had been responsible for virtually every act of political violence — and controlled every militant group —in Turkey over the last 30 years.

As of 2015 most of the people accused of such crimes were acquitted, forensic experts concluded the documents for supposed plots were fake and some of the executors of trials proved to be linked to the Gülen Movement and were charged with plotting against the Turkish Army.)

The Gülen Movement states that it is based on moral values and advocacy of universal access to education, civil society, tolerance and peace.

The emphasis among participants is to perform “service” (hizmet) as arising from individuals’ personal commitments to righteous imperatives.

Along with hizmet, the movement, which has no official name, is termed the Gülen Movement or cemaat (“congregation“, “community” or “assembly“).

The movement has been characterized as a “moderate blend of Islam“. 

Gülen and the Gülen Movement are technology-friendly, work within current market and commerce structures, and are savvy users of modern communications and public relations.

In 2008, Gülen was described as “the modern face of the Sufi Ottoman tradition“, who reassures his followers, including many members of “Turkey’s aspirational middle class“, that “they can combine the statist-nationalist beliefs of Atatürk’s republic with a traditional but flexible Islamic faith” and “Ottoman traditions that had been caricatured as theocratic by Atatürk and his ‘Kemalist’ heirs“.

Above: Fetullah Gülen

In the early 2000s, the Gülen Movement was seen as keeping a distance from established Islamic political parties.

Sources state that the Gülen Movement is vying to be recognized as the world’s leading Muslim network, one that is more reasonable than many of its rivals.

The movement builds on the activities of Gülen, who has won praise from non-Muslim quarters for his advocacy of science, interfaith dialogue, and multi-party democracy.

It has earned praise as “the world’s most global movement“.

It is impossible to calculate the size of the Gülen Movement” since the movement is not a centralized or formal organization with membership rosters, but rather a set of numerous, loosely organized networks of people inspired by Gülen.

Estimates of the size of the Movement vary, with one source stating that between 200,000 supporters and 4 million people are influenced by Gülen’s ideas (1997 Tempo estimate), and another stating that Gülen has “hundreds of thousands of supporters“.

The membership of the movement consists primarily of students, teachers, businessmen, academics, journalists and other professionals. 

Its members have founded schools, universities, an employers’ association, charities, real estate trusts, student organizations, radio and television stations, and newspapers.

The movement’s structure has been described as a flexible organizational network. 

Movement schools and businesses organize locally and link themselves into informal networks. 

Akin to Turkey’s Sufi tariqas (lay religious orders), Movement schools were banned in Turkey in 1925.

The Movement skirted Kemalist Turkey’s prohibitions against assembling in non-state sponsored religious meetings.

(As a young man, future President of Turkey Recep Tayyip Erdoğan belonged to the Naqshbandi tariqa, then technically banned in Turkey.)

Above: An election campaign poster featuring Erdoğan: “Istanbul is Ready, Target 2023“, Taksim Square, Istanbul

Each local Gülen movement school and community has a person designated its “informal” (in the sense of not being Turkish state-sponsored) prayer leader (imam).

In the Gülen Movement, this individual is a layman who serves for a stint within this voluntary position.

His identity is kept confidential, generally only purposely made known to those with close connections to those participating in decision-making and coordinating councils within the local group.

Above a grouping of such “secret” (not-publicly-acknowledged) imams is another such volunteer leader.

This relationship tree continues on up the ladder to the nation-level imam and to individuals who consult with Gülen himself.

(These individuals closest to Gülen, having degrees from theology schools, are offhandedly referred to within the movement as mullahs.)

Gülen’s position is analogous to that of a shaykh (master) of a Sufi tariqa.

Unlike with traditional tariqas, no one makes pledges of any sort, upon joining the Gülen Movement.

A person becomes a Movement participant simply by working with others to promote and effect the Movement’s objectives of education and service.

The Gülen Movement works within the given structures of modern secular states.

It encourages affiliated members to maximize the opportunities those countries afford rather than engaging in subversive activities.

In the words of Gülen himself, it promotes “an Ottoman Empire of the mind“.

Detractors of the Movement “have labeled Gülen community members as secretive missionaries, while those in the Movement and sympathetic observers class it as a civil society organization“.

Critics have complained that members of the Gülen movement are overly compliant to the directions from its leaders.

Gülen’s Movement “is generally perceived by its critics as a religio-political cult“.

Above: Fetullah Gülen

The Guardian editorial board described the Movement in 2013 as having “some of the characteristics of a cult or of an Islamic Opus Dei“.

(Opus Dei is an organization within the Catholic Church.)

Above: Opus Dei logo – “A cross embracing the world

Scholars such as Simon Robinson disagree with the characterization, writing that although “there is no doubt that Gülen remains a charismatic leader and that members of the movement hold him in the highest respect“, the Movement “differs markedly from a cult in several ways“, with Gülen stressing “the primacy of the scriptures” and “the imperative of service” and consistently avoiding “attempts to institutionalize power, to perceive him as the source of all truth, or to view him as taking responsibility for the Movement“.

Zeki Saritoprak says that the view of Gülen as “a cult leader or a man with ambitions” is mistaken, and contends that Gülen should be viewed in the context of a long line of Sufi masters who have long been a centre of attention “for their admirers and followers, both historically and currently“.

Above: Zeki Sartoprak

Beginning in 2008, the Dutch government investigated the Movement’s activities in the Netherlands in response to questions from Parliament.

The first two investigations concluded that the movement did not form a breeding ground for radicalism and found no indications that the movement worked against integration or that it was involved in terrorism or religious radicalization.

A further academic study sketched a portrait of a socially conservative, inwardly directed movement with an opaque organizational structure, but said that its members tend to be highly successful in society and thus form no threat to integration.

Above: Flag of the Netherlands

Hizmet-affiliated foundations and businesses were estimated as worth $20-to-$50 billion in 2015.

Fethullah Gülen’s and the Gülen Movement’s views and practices have been discussed in international conferences.

In October 2007 in London a conference was sponsored by the University of Birmingham, the Dialogue Society, the Irish School of Ecumenics, Leeds Metropolitan University, the London Middle East Institute, the Middle East Institute and the School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London.

Above: London, England

The Niagara Foundation of Chicago, together with several academic institutions, organized “The Gülen Movement: Paradigms, Projects and Aspirations” conference, which was held at the University of Chicago on 11–13 November 2010.

Above: Logo of the University of Chicago

In 2017 the German magazine Der Spiegel called the Movement a “secretive and dangerous cult” while calling Gülen a suspicious individual, saying:

The movement calls itself a tolerant service movement, while those who have left the movement call it a secretive Islamist organization with Fethullah Gülen as its leader“.

The article said pupils attending the “cult” schools in Germany were under immense pressure from their abis (tutors) telling them which books to read, which movies to watch, which friends to meet and whether to see their families or not, while the abis were keeping a protocol of all those staying in the cult’s dormitories.

Der Spiegel also criticized the movement regarding its activities towards freedom of the press.

Arguing, despite Gülen emphasizing how much he cares of the freedom of the press in interviews, the Movement launched a campaign towards the newspaper in 2012 after an article was written regarding the “cult“.

During which 2,000 readers sent by the cult wrote letters of complaint to the Press Council.

All of which were rejected by the Council. 

Der Spiegel said the Movement distorted events and threatened those who spoke against it and accused Der Spiegel of having ties to the Turkish mafia.

Above: Logo of Der Spiegel (The Mirror)

Gareth Jenkins of the Sunday Times said, despite portraying itself as a peaceful educational movement, the Gülen organization never hesitates using anti-democratic and anti-liberal methods.

The Süddeutsche Zeitung called the organization as “more dangerous than the Illuminati” and “not transparent as opposed to the claims“, and reported that the organization tried to reorganize in the Swabia region of Germany.

(Illuminati is a name given to several groups, both real and fictitious whose goals were to oppose superstition, obscurantism, religious influence over public life, and abuses of state power.

Historically, the name usually refers to the Bavarian Illuminati, an Enlightenment-era secret society founded on 1 May 1776 in Bavaria, today part of Germany.

The order of the day“, they wrote in their general statutes, “is to put an end to the machinations of the purveyors of injustice, to control them without dominating them.”

Above: Adam Weishaupt (1748–1830), founder of the Illuminati

The Illuminati — along with Freemasonry and other secret societies — were outlawed with the encouragement of the Catholic Church.

The group was generally vilified by conservative and religious critics who claimed that the Illuminati continued underground and were responsible for the French Revolution.

Many influential intellectuals and progressive politicians counted themselves as members.

It attracted literary men.

Above: Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749 – 1832), a member of the Illuminati

Illuminati” has referred to various organisations which have claimed, or have been claimed to be, connected to the original Bavarian Illuminati or similar secret societies, though these links have been unsubstantiated.

These organisations have often been alleged to conspire to control world affairs, by masterminding events and planting agents in government and corporations, in order to gain political power and influence and to establish a New World Order.

Central to some of the more widely known and elaborate conspiracy theories, the Illuminati have been depicted as lurking in the shadows and pulling the strings and levers of power in dozens of novels, films, television shows, comics, video games, and music videos.)

On 9 November 2005, a bookstore was bombed in Şemdinli.

The Şemdinli incident occurred on 9 November 2005 when a bookshop in Şemdinli, Hakkari Province, Turkey was attacked with grenades.

One person died and several were injured in the attack on the Umut bookshop.

The attack was carried out by Turkish Gendarmerie personnel, who were caught in the act by local residents.

The men are said to have worked for the Gendarmerie’s JITEM intelligence unit.

Two hand grenades were thrown, and a further two retrieved from the car of Kaya and İldeniz, which was registered to the local Gendarmerie.

Above: Emblem of the Turkish Gendarmerie

In 2010 grenades with the same serial number were found in a house in Erzincan as part of the Ergenekon investigation.

The incident has been compared with the Susurluk scandal for the light it casts on the Turkish “deep state“.

Above: Aftermath of the 9 November 2005 bookstore bombing

The prosecutor of the case, Ferhat Sarıkaya, prepared a criminal indictment in which Turkey’s Commander of Land Forces Yasar Büyükanit was accused of forming a gang and plotting the bombing.

A decade later, prosecutor Sarıkaya confessed that he was ordered by Gülenists to include General Yaşar Büyükanıt into the criminal indictment, in order to prevent his promotion in the army (Chief of General Staff) and to ease the grip on Gülenist structures within the army.

Above: Yaşar Büyükanıt (1940 – 2019)

The prominent Turkish – Armenian journalist Hrant Dink was assassinated in Istanbul on 19 January 2007.

Dink was a newspaper editor who had written and spoken about the Armenian genocide, and was well known for his efforts for reconciliation between Turks and Armenians and his advocacy of human and minority rights in Turkey.

At the time of his death, he was on trial for violating Article 301 of the Turkish Penal Code and “denigrating Turkishness“.

Above: Hrant Dink

Above: Hrant Dink was assassinated in Istanbul around 12:00 GMT on 19 January 2007, as he returned to the offices of Agos.

His murder sparked both massive national protests in Turkey itself as well as widespread international outrage.

Above: A panorama from Halaskargazi Boulevard in the Sisli district of Istanbul.
One hundred thousand mourners marched in Dink’s funeral, protesting his assassination.

Hakan Bakırcıoglu, one of Hrant Dink’s lawyers, said in an interview with Deutsche Welle that the underaged perpetrator, Ogün Samast, had help from third parties, including people connected to the Istanbul and Trabzon police forces.

Four prosecutors in the trial have been dismissed from their posts due to their ties with the Movement, and for failing to make progress with the case.

Furthermore, police commissioners Ramazan Akyürek and Ali Fuat Yılmazer were accused of not sharing their foreknowledge of the attack with the prosecutors, gendarmarie, or the intelligence services despite being briefed of a planned assassination several times.

A Turkish court also said that 18 suspects in the case, among them 13 government officials were using the application ByLock on their phones, which the Turkish government claims are the communication tool of Gülen movement followers.

According to investigative journalist Nedim Şener, the Gülen movement used the assassination of Hrant Dink, the assassination of priest Andrea Santoro, the Zirve Publishing House murders, as well as other events, to create an atmosphere and illusion of a clandestine Kemalist ultra-nationalist organization holding responsible for these misdeeds.

Above: Nedim Şener

(Andrea Santoro (1945 – 2006) was a Roman Catholic priest in Turkey, murdered in the Santa Maria Church in Trabzon where he served as a member of the Catholic Church’s Fidei Donum missionary program. 

He was shot dead from behind while kneeling in prayer in the church.

The motive of the attack is not known.)

Above: Andrea Santoro (1945 – 2006)

(The Zirve Publishing House murders, called the missionary massacres by Turkish media, took place on 18 April 2007, in Zirve Publishing House, Malatya, Turkey.

Three employees of the Bible publishing house were attacked, tortured, and murdered by five Muslim assailants.

Two of the victims, Necati Aydın (36) and Uğur Yüksel (32) were Turkish converts from Islam.

The third man, Tilmann Geske (45) was a German citizen.

Necati Aydın was an actor who played the role of Jesus Christ in a theatre production that the TURK-7 network aired over the Easter holidays.

Aydın is survived by his wife, Şemse, and a son and daughter, both pre-school age.

Geske is survived by his wife Susanne and three children aged 8 to 13.

Yüksel was engaged.

Necati Aydin was a graduate of the Martin Bucer Seminary, whose president Thomas Schirrmacher said he simply cried when he learned of the deaths.)

With the start of the Ergenekon trials, this alleged Kemalist organization was called an “Ergenekon terrorist organization“.

The Gülenist media were instrumental in shaping public opinion during these operations.

In these court cases, military officials, parliamentarians and journalists were accused of plotting a violent coup to oust the government.

It later turned out that these cases were based on fabricated evidence, and that most such fabrications were produced by the Gülenists in the police.

In 2011, Nedim Şener was accused in the Ergenekon trials of being a member of Ergenekon and subsequently was arrested and held in pre-trial detention.

In 2010, the exam questions and answer keys of the Public Personnel Selection Examination (KPSS) were stolen and handed out to certain Gülenist members.

The members with high scores were placed strategically in the critical state bodies.

Above: Logo of the KPSS test

Members of the Gülen movement inside the intelligence agency were accused of reshaping Turkish politics to a more “workable form” by leaking secretly filmed sex tapes and corruption tapes of both government members and opposition members, with the resignation of main opposition leader Deniz Baykal in 2010 as one of the most notable examples.

Above: Deniz Baykal

(An alleged video-tape showing Baykal in bed with his former secretary, Member of Parliament Nesrin Baytok, was leaked to the media.)

Above: Nesrin Baytok

Politicians with no recorded scandalous behavior are believed to have been killed, like Great Unity Party leader Muhsin Yazicioğlu, who died in a helicopter crash in 2009.

Above: Muhsin Yazicioğlu

(Muhsin Yazıcıoğlu (1954 – 2009) was a Turkish politician and member of the Parliament of Turkey.

He was the leader and founder of the Great Unity Party (BBP), a right-wing, nationalist-Islamist political party.

Above: Logo of the Great Unity Party

Yazıcıoğlu died on 25 March 2009, in a helicopter crash in the southern Turkish province of Kahramanmaras, after a political rally there on the way to the next rally in Yozgat just four days before the local elections.

Above: The helicopter crash site

After the helicopter crash, journalist Ismail Güneş who was one of the passengers, called the Turkish emergency service number 112 and was able to talk to the dispatcher clearly.

He explained how the helicopter fell in a way which made some people believe that the crash was more of an assassination than an accident.

According to Ismail Güneş’s autopsy his chin was broken after the crash, suggesting he wouldn’t have been able to talk to the dispatcher.

Above: Ismail Güneş

Locals and soldiers searched for 48 hours until the bodies were found.

The Turkish magazine Aksiyon published a special file on the blood of the deceased.

It contained carbon monoxide before the helicopter fell.

According to Köksal Akpınar, it was proven that the carbon monoxide values in the blood of pilot Kaya İstekte and journalist İsmail Güneş were much higher when the helicopter was falling.

Above: Aksiyon (Action) logo

There is a tape illustrating Sergeant Aydın Özsıcak dismantling the GPS of the helicopter.

This tape was denied by the then-Turkish Prime Minister Erdogan.

However, after the failed military coup in 2016, President Erdoğan published the video since Aydın Özsıcak was one of the sergeants who tried to overthrow Erdoğan during the coup.

Today, the reason for the accident still remains a mystery.)

Above: (foreground) Aydin Özsicak

Turkish and Russian officials declared the Gülen Movement to be responsible for the assassination of Russian ambassador Andrei Karlov and accused the Movement of aiming to damage Russia-Turkey relations that had been normalizing since the 2016 coup d’état attempt.

Above: Andrei Karlov (1954 – 2016)

(Andrei Karlov was assassinated by Mevlüt Mert Altıntaş, an off-duty Turkish police officer, at an art exhibition in Ankara on the evening of 19 December 2016.

The assassination took place after several days of protests in Turkey over Russian involvement in the Syrian Civil War and the battle over Aleppo.

Karlov, the Russian Ambassador to Turkey, had been invited to deliver a speech at the opening of an exhibition of Turkish photography of the Russian countryside.

The exhibition, “Russia through Turks’ eyes“, was being held at the municipality owned Cagdas Sanat Merkezi Centre for Modern Arts in Ankara’s Cankaya district.

Above: Cagdas Sanat Merkezi Centre for Modern Arts, Ankara

Mevlüt Altıntaş entered the hall using his police identification, leading gallery security and attendees to believe he was one of Karlov’s personal bodyguards.

Karlov had begun his speech when Altıntaş suddenly fired several shots at the Russian ambassador from the back, fatally wounding him and injuring several other people.

Above: Mevlüt Mert Altıntaş

After shooting Karlov, Altıntaş circled the room, smashing pictures that were on display and shouting in Arabic and Turkish:

Allahu Akbar (God is the greatest).

We are the descendants of those who supported the Prophet Muhammad, for jihad.

Do not forget Aleppo, do not forget Syria.

We die in Aleppo, you die here.”

Shortly after, Altıntaş was fatally shot by Turkish security forces.

Karlov was taken to the hospital, but died from his injuries.)

Above: Russian commemorative stamp

Since 2013 the Gülen Movement has been accused by the Turkish government of collaborating with the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK).

In 2014 the Movement reportedly conducted several meeting with the PKK, in parts of Northern Iraq under PKK control.

In 2015, the Turkish government said the movement had leaked the identity of 329 Turkish Gendermarie informants to the PKK, who were then executed.

On 15 April 2016, during the Kurdish-Turkish conflict Gülen movement member Brigadier General Ali Osman Gürcan deliberately sent 17 soldiers to a house that was packed with IEDs (improvised explosive devices), according to the testimony of his companions, which led to the death of a police officer and wounding of eight soldiers.

The house was marked on a map with the code ‘P368‘ for IED’s, which Gürcan erased from the map, leading to a brawl that led to his companions calling him a “traitor“. 

Gürcan later participated in the 2016 Turkish coup d’état attempt under the Peace at Home Council.

He was arrested after the coup’s failure and sentenced to life imprisonment.

Above: Ali Osman Gürcan

(The Council for Peace at Home (Yurtta Sulh Konseyi), alternatively called the Peace Council, claimed to be an executive body that led a coup attempt in Turkey (15-16 July 2016).

The name was made public in a statement read on air during the 15 July 2016 temporary takeover by soldiers of the headquarters of Turkish state broadcaster TRT.

It is the wish and order of the Turkish Armed Forces for this statement to be broadcast on all channels of the Turkish Republic.

The valuable citizens of the Turkish Republic have systematically been subject to constitutional and legal infringements threatening the basic characteristics and vital institutions of the state, while all state institutions including the Turkish Armed Forces have undergone attempts to be redesigned based on ideological motives, rendering them unfit for purpose.

Fundamental rights and freedoms as well as the secular democratic legal structure based on the separation of powers have been abolished by the heedless, misguided and even treacherous President and government officials.

Our state has lost its rightful international reputation and has become a country governed by an autocracy based on fear and where fundamental human rights are overlooked.

The wrong decisions taken by the political elite have resulted in the failure to combat growing terrorism, which has claimed the lives of several innocent citizens and security forces who have been fighting against terror.

The corruption and pilferage within the bureaucracy have reached serious levels, while the judicial system throughout the country has become unfit for purpose.

In these circumstances, the Turkish Armed Forces, that founded and has guarded to this day the Turkish Republic under extraordinary sacrifices, established under the leadership of the great Atatürk, has in order to continue the country’s indivisible unity in the wake of the Peace at Home, Peace in the World ideal, to safeguard the survival of the nation and the state, to eliminate the threats our Republic’s victories face, to eliminate the de facto obstructions to our justice system, to stop corruption that has become a national security threat, to allow efficient operations against all forms of terrorism, to bring forward fundamental and universal human rights to all our citizens regardless of race or ethnicity and to re-establish the constitutionally enshrined values of a secular democratic social and legal state, to regain our nation’s lost international reputation and to establish stronger relations and co-operate for international peace, stability and serenity, taken over administration.

The governance of the State will be undertaken by the established Peace at Home Council.

The Peace at Home Council has taken every action to ensure that it fulfils the obligations set by all international institutions, including the United Nations and NATO.

The government, which has lost all its legitimacy, has been dismissed from office.”

Above: The General Directorate of Police (EGM) bombing on 15 July 2016

The group was supposedly formed within the Turkish Armed Forces clandestinely.

It was declared to be the governing council of Turkey during the coup attempt.

The existence of the Council was firstly announced by Tijen Karaş, a news anchor at the state-owned TRT news channel, allegedly at gunpoint.

Above: Tijen Karaş

The name “Peace at Home Council” is derived from ‘Peace at Home, Peace in the World’, which is a famous quote of Atatürk.

Although it was self-declared as the successor to the incumbent 65th government of Turkey, the citizens taking to the streets failed the coup attempt meant that the Council took neither de facto nor de jure power in the country.

BBC article by Ezgi Başaran said that:

The statement of the junta, that was read on government TV as the coup got under way, bore a strong resemblance to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk’s famous address to the Turkish Youth.

On the other hand, given that these references are too obvious, they may have been intentionally included to insinuate a Kemalist junta rather than a Gülenist one.”

In the aftermath of the coup attempt, commentators on social media alleged that the creation of the council had been staged to invoke greater support for the governing Justice and Development Party (AKP), with some sceptics citing the lack of any solid information on the Council’s actual composition as evidence that the entire ordeal had been faked by the government.

No official statement regarding the composition of the Council was ever given.

According to the state-run Anadolu News Agency, subsequent investigations and allegations pointed to the leader being former Colonel Muharrem Köse, who had been dismissed earlier in 2016 from his role as legal advisor to the Chief of Staff due to his apparent links with Fethullah Gülen.

Above: Muharrem Köse

On 15 July 2016, as reported just before 23:00, military jets were witnessed flying over Ankara, and both the Fatih Sultan Mehmet and Bosphorus Bridges in Istanbul were closed.

Above: Ankara

Above: Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, Istanbul

Above: The Bosphorus Bridge (now called the 15 July Martyrs Bridge), Istanbul

Turkish Prime Minister Binali Yildirim said military action was being “taken outside the chain of command” and it was an “illegal attempt” to seize power by “part of the military“.

He further said that those involved “will pay the highest price“.

Above: Binali Yildirim

Local media also reported tanks in Istanbul’s Atatürk Airport.

Above: Atatürk Airport, Istanbul

It was reported that Internet users within Turkey were blocked from accessing Twitter, Facebook, and YouTube.

Twitter later stated that it had “no reason to think we’ve been fully blocked“. 

Above: Logo of Twitter

Some hostages were taken at military headquarters, including the Turkish Chief of the General Staff Hulusi Akar.

Above: Hulusi Akar

At around 21:00, the coup had invited Salih Zeki Çolak, the commander of the Turkish Land Forces to the military headquarters. When he arrived, he was immediately apprehended.

Above: Salih Zeki Çolak

Abidan Ünal, head of the Turkish Air Force, who had been attending a wedding in Istanbul, was abducted from there by soldiers who descended from a helicopter.

The coup then tried to force Akar to sign the coup declaration, almost strangling him using a belt in the process.

He refused and was then taken to the Akinci Air Base and other commanders at the headquarters.

Above: Abidin Ünal

 

The military also entered the Justice and Development Party’s (AKP) offices in Istanbul and asked people to leave.

Early reports said President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan was safe in Marmaris, southwest Turkey, where he had been on holiday.

Above: Marmaris

From around 23:00 to midnight, helicopters bombed the police special forces headquarters and police air force headquarters in Gölbasi, just outside of Ankara.

The attacks left 42 dead and 43 injured. 

Above: General Directorate of Security logo

Türksat headquarters in Gölbaşı was also attacked, killing two security personnel.

At around 23:50, soldiers occupied Taksim Square in central Istanbul.

Above: Taksim Square, Istanbul, 15 July 2016

At 00:02, it was reported by Reuters that soldiers were inside the buildings of the state broadcaster, the Turkish Radio and Television Corporation (TRT), in Ankara.

During the coup attempt, soldiers forced anchor Tijen Karaş to read out a statement saying that “the democratic and secular rule of law has been eroded by the current government” and that Turkey was now led by the Peace at Home Council who would “ensure the safety of the population“. 

The statement read in part:

Turkish Armed Forces have completely taken over the administration of the country to reinstate constitutional order, human rights and freedoms, the rule of law and general security that was damaged.

All international agreements are still valid.

We hope that all of our good relationships with all countries will continue.

The plotters said they had “done so to preserve democratic order, and that the rule of law must remain a priority“.

The statement also ordered temporary martial rule, and said a new constitution would be prepared “as soon as possible“.

TRT was then taken off air.

Above: Tijen Karaş

Reuters reported on 15 July that an EU source described the coup as “well orchestrated” and predicted that “given the scale of the operation, it is difficult to imagine they will stop short of prevailing.”

Another EU diplomat said that the Turkish ambassador in his capital was shocked and “taking it very seriously”.

Above: Member states of the European Union

The Turkish Presidential office said President Erdoğan was on holiday inside Turkey and safe and condemned the coup attempt to attack democracy.

A presidential source also said Erdoğan and his government were still in power.

The first messages from Erdoğan were transmitted at around 00:23. 

At about 01:00, Erdoğan did a FaceTime interview with CNN Türk, in which he called upon his supporters to take to the streets in defiance of the military-imposed curfew, saying:

There is no power higher than the power of the people.

Let them do what they will at public squares and airports.”

Above: Logo of FaceTime

Deputy Prime Minister Numan Kurtulmuş appeared on live television, saying Turkey’s ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) is still in charge of the government.

Above: Numan Kurtulmuş

The mayor of Ankara, Melih Gökçek of the AKP, encouraged people to go out to the city’s streets in defiance, despite a curfew imposed by the military.

Above: Melih Gökçek

Erdoğan’s plane took off from Dalaman Airport near Marmaris at 23:47, but had to wait in the air south of Atatürk for the airport to be secured.

His plane landed at 02:50.

Above: Dalaman Airport

The First Army General Command in Istanbul stated in a news conference that the TSK did not support the coup and the perpetrators represented a tiny faction that were on the verge of being brought under control. 

Above: Logo of the First Army

Istanbul Atäturk Airport was closed.

All flights from the airport were cancelled.

Above: Istanbul Atatürk Airport, 2016 coup

There was an explosion in the TRT broadcasting headquarters and gunfire was reported in Ankara.

Soon after, it was stormed by a crowd of civilians and police, with four soldiers inside reportedly being “neutralized“.

The channel went back on air and Karaş, who had previously announced the coup, said live that she had been held hostage and forced to read the declaration of the coup at gunpoint.

By 01:00, it was reported that the military had pulled its forces from the Atatürk airport and people were coming inside, but by 01:13, it was reported that tanks were inside the airport and gunfire was heard.

Above: Istanbul Atatürk Airport, 2016 coup

Tanks opened fire near the Turkish Parliament Building

The parliamentary building was also hit from the air. 

Above: Parliament Building aftermath of 2016 coup

Injuries were reported among protesters following gunfire on Bosphorus Bridge.

Above: Bosphorous Bridge, 2016 coup

A helicopter belonging to the pro-coup forces was shot down by a Turkish military F-16 fighter jet.

There were also reports of pro-state jets flying over Ankara to “neutralize” helicopters used by those behind the coup.

At 03:08, a military helicopter opened fire on the Turkish parliament.

Above: Parliament Building, aftermath of 2016 coup

At 03:10, Turkish Armed Forces stated on their website that they had complete control over the country.

However, at 03:12, Yıldırım made a statement saying that the situation was under control and that a no-fly zone was declared over Ankara and that military planes that still flew would be shot down.

Above: Command Centre of the Turkish Armed Forces, Ankara

It was reported that the Turkish parliament had been bombed again at 03:23 and 03:33.

A helicopter belonging to the pro-coup forces was also seen flying by it.

Above: Aftermath of Turkish Parliament bombings, 2016 coup

Half an hour following the report of 12 deaths and 2 injuries in the parliament, soldiers entered CNN Türk’s headquarters and forced the studio to go off air.

After an hour of interruption by the pro-coup soldiers, CNN Türk resumed its broadcast.

Later, Ismail Kahraman said a bomb exploded at a corner of the public relations building inside the parliament, with no deaths but several injuries among police officers.

Above: İsmail Kahraman

At around 04:00 two or three helicopters attacked Erdogan’s hotel.

According to eyewitness accounts, ten to fifteen heavily armed men landed and started firing.

In the ensuing conflict, two policemen were killed and eight were injured.

Above: The team, consisting of Turkish SAT Commandos and Combat Search and Rescue (MAK) troops, attacked the hotel where President Erdoğan stayed.

The Doğan News Agency (DHA) reported that in Istanbul several individuals were injured after soldiers fired on a group of people attempting to cross the Bosphorus Bridge in protest of the attempted coup.

The Peace Council was eventually unable to take power after pro-coup forces were defeated and the incumbent AKP government retained control. 

Mass arrests were later made, targeting over 2,000 soldiers, including senior officers and generals.

Speculation emerged that former Turkish Air Force Commander Akin Öztürk had been in charge of the coup attempt.)

Above: Akin Öztürk

After Erdoğan flew into Istanbul, he made a televised speech inside the airport at around 04:00, whilst thousands gathered outside.

He addressed a crowd of supporters in the airport, at about 06:30.

He said:

In Turkey, armed forces are not governing the state or leading the state.

They cannot.

He blamed “those in Pennsylvania” (a reference to Fetullah Gülen, who lives in Saylorsburg, Pennsylvania, and his Hizmet Movement) for the coup attempt.

Erdoğan also said he had plans to “clean up” the army, saying that:

This uprising is a gift from God to us.

Above: President Erdoğan addresses the crowd

State-run Anadolu Agency named former Colonel Muharrem Köse, who in March 2016 was dishonorably discharged for reported association with Gülen, as the suspected leader of the coup. 

However, the Alliance for Shared Values, a non-profit organization associated with Gülen, released a statement reiterating that it condemns any military intervention in domestic politics, and saying Erdoğan’s allegations against the movement were “highly irresponsible“. 

Gülen himself said in a brief statement just before midnight:

As someone who suffered under multiple military coups during the past five decades, it is especially insulting to be accused of having any link to such an attempt.

I categorically deny such accusations.

Above: Fetullah Gülen

Reuters reported that in early hours of 16 July, the coup appeared to have “crumbled” as crowds defied pro-coup military orders and gathered in major squares of Istanbul and Ankara to oppose it. 

Reuters also reported pro-coup soldiers surrendering to the police in Taksim Square, Istanbul.

It was reported that by 05:18, Atatürk Airport had completely been recaptured by the government whilst the police had surrounded the coup inside the Turkish army headquarters, calling for them to surrender.

Between 06:00 and 08:00 a skirmish took place there.

In Akar’s absence, Ümit Dündar, head of the First Army, was appointed Acting Chief of Staff.

In the early hours of the morning of 16 July, soldiers blocking the Bosphorus Bridge surrendered to the police.

According to the government-run Anadolu Agency, this consisted of a group of 50 soldiers.

Some of these soldiers were lynched by civilians despite the police’s efforts, who fired into the air to protect the surrendering soldiers.

Meanwhile, in the headquarters of the Turkish Army, 700 unarmed soldiers surrendered as the police conducted an operation into the building while 150 armed soldiers were kept inside by the police.

The coup in the TRT building in Istanbul surrendered in the early morning as well.

Chief of Staff Akar, held hostage at the Akinci Air Base in Ankara, was also rescued by pro-state forces.

One of the primary reasons that the coup failed was chaos among the plotters’ ranks.

Turkey’s National Intelligence Organization (MİT) head Hakan Fidan discovered the coup plot, and the plotters were forced to execute the coup five hours ahead of schedule.

Above: Hakan Fidan

One of the main organizers, General Semih Terzi, was shot dead by loyalist Sergeant Major Ömer Halisdemir at the onset, demoralizing and disrupting command and control of the rebels.

Above: Semih Terzi (1968 – 2016)

These two incidents resulted in the coup being carried out in an uncoordinated manner. 

The highest ranking staff officers opposed the coup and publicly ordered all personnel to return to their barracks.

Acting outside the military chain of command, the rebels lacked the coordination and resources to achieve their goals.

The conscripted soldiers that the rebels mobilized were uninformed of their mission’s true purpose and became demoralized.

Many surrendered rather than shoot demonstrators.

The commander of the First Army in Istanbul, General Ümit Dündar, personally called Erdoğan to warn him of the plot, persuading him to evacuate his hotel ahead of the plotters, and helped to secure Istanbul for Erdoğan to land.

The MİT also mobilized its anti-aircraft guns, which the plotters were unaware existed, deterring rebel jets and commando teams.

Above: Ümit Dündar

Equally important to the coup’s failure, according to military strategist Edward N. Luttwak, was the inability of the rebels to neutralize Erdoğan and other high ranking government officials, either by killing or detaining them.

Above: Edward Luttwak

A unit of special forces was sent via helicopter to kill or capture the President, but missed because he had been evacuated by his security detail just minutes before.

Once Erdoğan landed at Atatürk Airport (which had been recaptured from the rebels by his supporters), the coup was doomed.

Above: Shoulder badge of the Turkish Special Forces

According to a military source, several rebel F-16s targeted Erdoğan’s presidential jet en route to Istanbul, but they did not fire.

A senior Turkish counter-terrorism official later stated that the jets did not fire because the fighter jet pilots were told by President Erdoğan’s pilot over the radio that the flight of the Gulfstream IV was a Turkish Airlines flight.

Above: An example of a Gulfstream IV

According to Naunihal Singh, author of Seizing Power, the coup attempt also failed because the plotters failed to secure control of the media and shape the narrative.

Successful coups require that the rebels control the mass media. 

This allows even small rebel contingents to portray themselves as fully in control, and their victory as inevitable.

Consequently, they convince the public, along with neutral and even loyalist soldiers, to defect to them or not resist.

The rebels failed to properly broadcast their messages effectively across the media that they controlled.

They failed to capture Türksat, Turkey’s main cable and satellite communications company, and failed to gain control of the country’s television and mobile phone networks.

This allowed Erdoğan to make his Facetime call, and to speak on television.

Other scholars of civil-military relations, like Drew H. Kinney, have said reports like Luttwak and Singh’s miss the point of their own analysis:

Civil resistance thwarted the coup.

Luttwak argues that wayward elements of the Turkish armed forces could not silence Erdoğan.

Singh says that the rebels could not project success because they couldn’t control the message.

Kinney states that neither of these reasons on their own matter, but rather it’s their effect — civil disobedience — that is important.

We might find that “Gülen’s movement might have had nothing to do with the attempted takeover in July, but civilians nevertheless definitely played a role in thwarting the coup,” writes Kinney.

An unhappy civilian populace mobilized to face down the military.

Above: Drew Holland Kinney

Erdoğan wasn’t censored (Luttwak’s point) and was therefore able to use FaceTime to mobilize resistance, which in turn hindered the conspirators’ ability to project success (Singh’s point).

The result is civilian resistance to soldiers, i.e., people power.

The reason Singh, Luttwak and other scholars of civil-military relations miss this is, according to Kinney, because they “usually do not study extra-military reasons for coup failures/successes“, but rather put a premium on “the inner workings of the military operation“.

In short, they blame the military for its failure rather than acknowledge the power of the masses and their successes.

Pro-state forces sent text messages to every Turkish citizen calling for them to protest against the coup attempt.

Throughout the night sela prayers were repeatedly called from mosque minarets across the country to encourage people to resist the coup plotters.

While the sela is usually called from minarets to inform the public of a funeral, they are also traditionally performed to notify of a significant event, in this case “to rally people“.

The coup plotters initiated their operation hours ahead of the planned time when they understood that their plans had been compromised.

Had the coup been launched at its original time, the middle of the night, much of the population would have been asleep.

The streets would have been mostly empty.

Reports have emerged, neither confirmed nor denied by Russia or Turkey that the Russian Main Intelligence Directorate (GRU) intercepted signals on an imminent coup passed on to loyal Turkish operatives.

The intercepted plans revealed several helicopters with commandos were on the way to Marmaris’s coastal resort, where Erdoğan stayed, capturing or killing him.

Pre-warned, Erdoğan left quickly to avoid them.

Above: Emblem of the GRU

Fethullah Gülen, whom President Erdoğan said as one of the principal conspirators, condemned the coup attempt and denied any role in it.

I condemn, in the strongest terms, the attempted military coup in Turkey,” he said in an emailed statement reported by The New York Times.

Government should be won through a process of free and fair elections, not force.

I pray to God for Turkey, Turkish citizens, and all those currently in Turkey that this situation is resolved peacefully and quickly.

As someone who suffered under multiple military coups during the past five decades, it is especially insulting to be accused of having any link to such an attempt.

I categorically deny such accusations.

President Erdoğan asked the United States to extradite Gülen:

I call on you again, after there was a coup attempt.

Extradite this man in Pennsylvania to Turkey!

If we are strategic partners or model partners, do what is necessary.”

Above: Fetullah Gülen

Prime Minister Yildirim has threatened war against any country that would support Gülen.

Above: Binali Yildirim

Turkish Labor Minister Süleyman Soylu said that “America is behind the coup“.

Above: Süleyman Soylu

Regarding the AKP’s statement against Gülen, Secretary of State John Kerry invited the Turkish government “to present us with any legitimate evidence that withstands scrutiny“, before they would accept an extradition request.

Above: John Kerry

On 15 August 2016, former United States diplomat James Jeffrey, who was the US Ambassador to Turkey from 2008 until 2010 made the following remarks:

The Gülen movement has some infiltration at the least in the military that I am aware of.

They of course had extreme infiltration into the police and judiciary earlier.

I saw that when I was in Turkey previously, particularly in the Sledgehammer case, Hakan Fidan case, and the corruption cases in 2013.

Obviously, significant segment of Turkey’s bureaucracy was infiltrated and had their allegiance to a movement.

That of course is absolutely unacceptable and extremely dangerous. It likely led to the coup attempt.

Above: James Jeffrey

Outside Turkey, in Beringen, Belgium, anti-coup protesters attempted to attack a building owned by the pro-Gülen movement group ‘Vuslat‘.

The police brought in a water cannon to keep the attackers at bay.

In news articles it was stated that the police also protected the houses of Gülen supporters.

People advocated on social media to go to Beringen once more, and there was unrest in Heusden-Zolder, elsewhere in Belgium.

Above: The Paalse Poort, gateway on Beringen’s central square

Furthermore, in Somalia the government ordered “the total closure of all activities” of an organization linked to the Gülen movement, and gave its staff seven days to leave the country.

Above: Flag of Somalia

On 2 August 2016, President Erdoğan said Western countries were “supporting terrorism” and the military coup, saying:

I’m calling on the United States:

What kind of strategic partners are we, that you can still host someone whose extradition I have asked for?

Above: Flag of the United States of America

On 31 January 2017, British Minister of State for Europe and the Americas, Alan Duncan said he believed the Gülen movement was responsible for the coup attempt.

Duncan went on saying “the organization which incorporated itself into the state tried to topple the democratic structure in Turkey“.

Above: Alan Duncan

Events surrounding the coup attempt and the purges in its aftermath reflect a complex power struggle between Islamist elites in Turkey.

During the coup attempt, over 300 people were killed and more than 2,100 were injured.

Many government buildings, including the Turkish Parliament and the Presidential Palace, were bombed from the air. 

Above: Presidential Palace

Mass arrests followed, with at least 40,000 detained, including at least 10,000 soldiers and, for reasons that remain unclear, 2,745 judges.

15,000 education staff were also suspended and the licenses of 21,000 teachers working at private institutions were revoked after the government stated they were loyal to Gülen. 

More than 77,000 people have been arrested and over 160,000 fired from their jobs, on reports of connections to Gülen.

Many reactions were against the coup attempt, both domestically and internationally.

The main opposition parties in Turkey condemned the attempt, while several international leaders — such as those of the US, NATO, the EU, and neighboring countries — called for “respect of the democratic institutions in Turkey and its elected officials“.

International organizations expressed themselves against the coup.

The UN Security Council, however, did not denounce the coup after disagreements over the phrasing of a statement.

Above: United Nations Security Council Chamber, UN Headquarters, New York City

Unlike some Middle Eastern governments that supported the coup or others that waited to see the outcome of the coup, Iran initially opposed the coup and advised Erdogan to defeat the coup plotters.

President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan said the head of US Central Command General Joseph Votel was “siding with coup plotters“, after Votel criticized the Turkish government for arresting the Pentagon’s contacts in Turkey.

Above: Joseph Votel

In March 2017, Germany’s intelligence chief said Germany was unconvinced by Erdoğan’s statement that Fethullah Gülen was behind the failed coup attempt.

Above: Flag of Germany

The same month, the British Parliament’s Foreign Affairs Select Committee said some Gulenists were involved in the coup d’état attempt but found no hard evidence that Fethullah Gülen masterminded the failed coup and found no evidence to justify the UK designating the Gülen movement as a “terrorist organization“.)

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

In 2016, the Gülen Movement was designated a terrorist organization.

Above: The “proof” against the Gülen Movement

In 2017, according to the Foreign and Commonwealth Office, there was “no evidence to justify the designation of the Gülenists as a terrorist organisation by the UK“.

The same year, Gilles de Kerchove, EU Counter Terrorism Coordinator, said that the EU didn’t see the Gülen movement as a terrorist organisation and that the EU would need “substantive” evidence to change its stance.

Above: Gilles de Kerchove

In 2018, in a conference with Turkish President Erdogan, German Chancellor Angela Merkel said that Germany needed more evidence to classify the Gülen movement as a terrorist organization.

Above: Angela Merkel

According to academic researcher Svante E. Cornell, director of the Central Asia – Caucasus Institute and Silk Road Studies Center:

With only slight exaggeration, the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) as well as the government it has led could be termed a coalition of religious orders.”

The Gülen Movement stayed away from electoral politics, focusing instead on increasing its presence in the state bureaucracy.

The Hizmet Movement’s stated success in this regard would initially make it Erdoğan’s main partner, but also his eventual nemesis.

Above: Svante E. Cornell

From 2002 to 2013, the Gülen movement comprehensively collaborated with the AKP and Erdoğan in obtaining political power in Turkey.

Questions have arisen about the Gülen Movement’s possible involvement in the ongoing Ergenekon investigation, which critics have characterized as “a pretext” by the government “to neutralize dissidents” in Turkey.

Despite Gülen’s and his followers’ statements that the organization is non-political in nature, analysts believed that a number of corruption-related arrests made against allies of Erdoğan reflect a growing political power struggle between Gülen and Erdoğan.

Above: Gülen and Erdoğan

These arrests led to the 2013 corruption scandal in Turkey, which the ruling Justice and Development Party’s supporters (along with Erdoğan himself) and the opposition parties alike have said were choreographed by Gülen after Erdoğan’s government came to the decision early in December 2013 to shut down many of his movement’s private pre-university schools in Turkey.

The Erdoğan government has said that the corruption investigation and comments by Gülen are the long term political agenda of Gülen’s movement to infiltrate security, intelligence, and justice institutions of the Turkish state, a charge almost identical to the charges against Gülen by the Chief Prosecutor of Turkey in his trial in 2000 before Erdoğan’s party had come into power.

Gülen had previously been tried in absentia in 2000, and acquitted of these charges in 2008 under Erdoğan’s AKP government.

Above: Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

The 2013 corruption scandal in Turkey or 17-25 December Corruption and Bribery Operation was a criminal investigation that involved several key people in the Turkish government.

All of the 52 people detained on 17 December were connected in various ways with the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP).

Prosecutors accused 14 people – including Suleyman Aslan, the director of state-owned Halkbank, Iranian businessman Reza Zarrab, and several family members of cabinet ministers – of bribery, corruption, fraud, money laundering and gold smuggling.

At the heart of the scandal was an alleged “gas for gold” scheme with Iran involving Aslan, who had US$4.5 million in cash stored in shoeboxes in his home, and Zarrab, who was involved in about US$9.6 billion of gold trading in 2012.

Both men were arrested.

Above: Suleyman Aslan

Above: Reza Zarrab

The scheme started after Turkish government officials found a loophole in the US sanctions against Iran that allowed them to access Iranian oil and gas.

The Turks exported some US$13 billion of gold to Iran directly, or through the United Arab Emirates (UAE), between March 2012 and July 2013.

In return, the Turks received Iranian natural gas and oil.

Above: Flag of Iran

The transactions were carried out through the Turkish state-owned bank, Halkbank.

In January 2013, the Obama Administration decided to close this loophole but instead of immediately charging Halkbank, the US government allowed its gold trading activities to continue until July 2013, because Turkey was an important ally regarding the American-led intervention in the Syrian Civil War, and the US had been working on a nuclear deal with Iran.

Above: Barrack Obama

In emailed comments to the Wall Street Journal in January 2014, Gülen said that “Turkish people are upset that in the last two years democratic progress is now being reversed“, but he denied being part of a plot to unseat the government.

Later, in January 2014 in an interview with BBC World, Gülen said:

If I were to say anything to people I may say people should vote for those who are respectful to democracy, rule of law, who get on well with people.

Telling or encouraging people to vote for a party would be an insult to peoples’ intellect.

Everybody very clearly sees what is going on.

According to some commentators, Gülen is to Erdoğan what Trotsky was to Stalin.

Above: Leon Trotsky (1879 – 1940)

Above: Joseph Stalin (1878 – 1953)

Ben Cohen of the Jewish News Syndicate wrote:

“Rather like Leon Trotsky, the founder of the Soviet Red Army who was hounded and chased out of the USSR by Joseph Stalin, Gülen has become an all-encompassing explanation for the existential threats, as Erdoğan perceives them, that are currently plaguing Turkey.

Stalin saw the influence of ‘Trotskyite counter-revolutionaries’ everywhere, and brutally purged every element of the Soviet apparatus.

Erdoğan is now doing much the same with the ‘Gülenist terrorists.'”

In March 2011, seven Turkish journalists were arrested, including Ahmet Şik, who had been writing a book, “Imamin Ordusu” (The Imam’s Army), which states that the Gülen movement has infiltrated the country’s security forces.

As Şık was taken into police custody, he shouted:

Whoever touches it the Movement gets burned!

Upon his arrest, drafts of the book were confiscated and its possession was banned.

Şık has also been charged with being part of the stated Ergenekon plot, despite being an investigator of the plot before his arrest.

Above: Ahmet Şık

In a reply, Abdullah Bozkurt, from the Gülen Movement newspaper Today’s Zaman (2007 – 2016), said Ahmet Şık was not being an investigative journalist conducting “independent research“, but was hatching “a plot designed and put into action by the terrorist network itself“.

According to Gareth H. Jenkins, a Senior Fellow of the Central Asia – Caucasus Institute and Silk Road Studies Joint Center at John Hopkins University:

From the outset, the pro-AKP media, particularly the newspapers and television channels run by the Gülen Movement such as Zaman, Today’s Zaman and Samanyolu TV, have vigorously supported the Ergenekon investigation.

This has included the illegal publication of “evidence” collected by the investigators before it has been presented in court, misrepresentations and distortions of the content of the indictments and smear campaigns against both the accused and anyone who questions the conduct of the investigations.

There have long been allegations that not only the media coverage but also the Ergenekon investigation itself is being run by Gülen’s supporters.

In August 2010, Hanefi Avci, a right-wing police chief who had once been sympathetic to the Gülen Movement, published a book in which he alleged that a network of Gülen’s supporters in the police were manipulating judicial processes and fixing internal appointments and promotions.

On 28 September 2010, two days before he was due to give a press conference to present documentary evidence to support his allegations, Avcı was arrested and charged with membership of an extremist leftist organization.

On 14 March 2011, Avcı was also formally charged with being a member of the alleged Ergenekon gang.

Above: Gareth Jenkins

The Gülen movement has also been implicated in what the opposition Republican People’s Party (CHP) – and after 2013 also President Erdoğan – have said were illegal court decisions against members of the Turkish military, including many during the Ergenekon investigation.

On 17 December 2013, an investigation into stated corrupt practices by several bureaucrats, ministers, mayors, and family members of the ruling AKP were uncovered, resulting in widespread protests and calls for the resignation of the government led by Prime Minister Erdoğan.

Due to the high level of political influence by the Gülen movement in Turkey, it is rumored to be facilitated by the movement’s influence on the Turkish police force and the judiciary, the investigation was said to be a result of a break in previously friendly relations between the Islamist-rooted government and the Movement.

President Erdoğan and the AKP have targeted the Movement since December 2013.

Immediately after the corruption statements, the government subjugated the judiciary, media and civil society critical of the government’s authoritarian trend in recent years.

After the corruption statements surfaced, Erdoğan labelled it as a “civilian coup” against his government.

Since then, Erdoğan has shuffled, dismissed or jailed hundreds of police officers, judges, prosecutors and journalists in the name of fighting against a “Parallel State” within the Turkish state.

Above: “Proof” of the “Parallel State

On 14 December 2014, Turkish police arrested more than two dozen senior journalists and media executives connected with the Gülen movement on various charges.

A statement by the US State Department cautioned Turkey not to violate its “own democratic foundations” while drawing attention to raids against media outlets “openly critical of the current Turkish government“.

EU Foreign Affairs chief Federica Mogherini and EU Enlargement Commissioner Johannes Hahn said that the arrests went “against European values” and “are incompatible with the freedom of media, which is a core principle of democracy“.

Above: Flag of the European Union

On 20 January 2015, Turkish police launched raids in Ankara and three other cities, detaining some 20 people suspected of illegally eavesdropping on President Erdoğan and other senior officials.

The suspects are linked to Turkey’s telecommunications authority and to its scientific and technological research centre TÜBITAK.

Local media said the move was aimed at the “parallel structure” — the term Erdogan uses to refer to Gülen’s supporters in the judiciary, police and other institutions.

The Turkish government took over the Gülenist Zaman Daily, on 4 March 2016.

Turkish police entered Zaman headquarters by force and fired tear gas at the protesting journalists and civilians.

Hundreds of protestors were injured.

In his efforts to eradicate the Movement within the country the Turkish National Security Council has identified the movement as the “Gülenist Terror Organization” (“Fethullahçı Terör Örgütü“)(FETÖ). 

The government has also been targeting individuals and businessmen who have supported the movement’s organizations and activities.

As aforementioned, in reaction to the 15 July 2016 coup attempt, led by a military faction operating outside the chain of command, the Turkish government quickly stated the coup’s leader to be Gülen.

In following days and weeks, a massive crackdown affected all entities affiliated to the Gülen Movement, from individuals to businesses, newspapers to schools and universities.

Above: Fetullah Gülen

Following the aforementioned assassination of Andrey Karlov, the Turkish government was reportedly investigating the assassin’s links to the “Gülenist Terrorist Organization” (FETÖ).

In a speech, President Erdogan said that the perpetrator was a member of FETÖ.

Above: Monument to Andrey Karlov on Andrey Karlov Street in Demre, Turkey

Among Turkish citizens within Turkey convicted for alleged memberships in the Gülen movement are Turkey’s honorary president of Amnesty International, Taner Kilic, and Amnesty’s Turkish branch, Idil Eser, in July 2020.

As of 2020, Turkey had successfully pressured a number of countries, especially those in Africa and Russia, to extradite over 80 alleged Gülenists to Turkey.

Above: Flag of Russia

In 2019 it was reported that Interpol had denied Turkey’s appeals of the agency’s rejections of Turkey’s red notice requests regarding 464 fugitives, citing Interpol’s legal definition of the 2016 Turkish coup d’état attempt as not terrorism but a failed military putsch.

In 2018, approximately 25,000 Turkish asylum requests were filed by alleged Gülenists in the European Union (a rise of 50% from 2017), with Germany’s share 10,000 and Greece’s about 5,000.

Above: Flag of Greece

Within the US, according to news reports, a number of Gülenists successfully receiving political asylum status are resettled in New Jersey.

Above: Flag of US state New Jersey

Opinions are like noses – everyone has one.

But there is something not quite right in my mind with the government account of events surrounding the Gülen Movement.

I find myself thinking of Niccolò Machiavelli and the notion that a prince must appear to be indispensable if he wishes to maintain power over his people.

Nothing makes a leader more indispensable than the notion that the nation must be defended against enemies, foreign and domestic.

Thus a nation must always have the perception that it has enemies.

Above: Niccolò Machiavelli (1469 – 1527)

But who shall we choose as our enemy?

Nationalism in Turkey is a powerful force.

Turks have no friends but themselves.” is a nationalist adage.

The nationalist tenets – including the depiction of Kurds as a threat to the unitary state, as well as the belief that Western powers have an ulterior strategy to divide and weaken Turkey – have found a comfortable place in the political mainstream.

Above: (in orange) Kurdistan in Turkey

Playing upon fears of an erosion of secularism, the elimination of democratic rule, and the disregard for human rights that the Islamic faith if unchecked might pose against the power of the state – the very same fears the Council cited as reasons for their attempted 2016 coup – the Gülen Movement has proven to be a very convenient target.

I am not suggesting that the entire Gülen body of believers are not culpable of all they have been accused of, but so many of the accusations cast upon them seem more like allegations rather than actual proofs of criminality.

The same arguments that President Erdoğan uses to defend Islam against those who would label all Muslims as terrorists could also apply to the Gülen Movement.

Just as not all Kurds support the violent acts of the PKK, not all who espouse the Movement’s tenets are guilty of the wrongful acts some Gülenists have been accused of.

It remains a constant in human psychology to label all members of a group by the actions of a few within that group.

Certainly many of us find it easy to condemn an entire nation of people for the ill-advised activities of its government.

Perhaps the tenacity of the Gülen Movement to adapt Islam to modernity, to make the faith of the Prophet a vehicle for social change, has left the powerful of Ankara nervous about the maintenance of their control over the hearts and minds of the Turkish people.

Demarginalize and denigrate the Movement and thus remove its potential to usurp power is the apparent strategy.

The need to diminish divinity and dominate the desires of faith in the name of preserving power seems to be the theme here in Turkey.

Ankara will tolerate religious expression unless it is the expression of dissent.

The power of belief is powerful if harnessed, channeled, controlled, monitored.

But all the edicts from all the governments in the world will never prevent humanity from seeking wisdom and comfort in a faith, regardless of whether religion is sometimes contrary to reason.

All Ankara can do is persuade people that some of the religious are not as good as they claim to be.

Above: Erdoğan vs Gülen

The opposite holds true in Europe.

Above: St. Gallen, Switzerland

A word first on religion in Switzerland, where, through marriage, I maintain a second residency.

Religion in Switzerland is predominantly Christianity, which, according to the national survey of the Swiss Federal Statistical Office in 2020 was adhered to by 61.2% of the Swiss people, of whom 33.8% were Catholics, 21.8% were Swiss Protestants, and 5.6% were followers of other Christian denominations.

Above: Tower of the Swiss Federal Statistical Office in Neuchâtel

The proportion of Christians has declined significantly since 1980, when they constituted about 94% of the population.

During the same time span, irreligious Swiss have grown from about 4% to 31% of the population, and people professing non-Christian religions have grown from about 1% to 7% of the population.

In 2020, according to church registers, 35.2% of the population were registered members of the country’s Catholic Church, while 23.3% were registered members of the Protestant Church of Switzerland.

Above: Typical large clocks characterising the towers of Swiss Protestant churches: here St. Peter and Fraumünster, Zürich.

Christianity was adopted by the Gaulish (mostly Helvetians) and Germanic (mostly Alemans) ancestors of the modern Swiss respectively between the 4th and 5th century late Roman domination and between the 6th and 7th century Frankish domination, abandoning their indigenous paganisms.

The Old Swiss Confederacy, which began to emerge in the 13th century, remained entirely Catholic until the 16th century, when it became one of the centres of the Protestant Reformation as a majority of the Swiss joined the Protestant movement of Calvinism.

Above: Flag of the Old Swiss Confederacy (1300 – 1798)

Conflicts, and even civil wars, between Protestants and Catholics persisted until the Sonderbund War of 1847, after which freedom of conscience was established by law — only for Christians. 

Legal discrimination against Jews and some restrictions against the Catholic Church persisted until the end of the 20th century. 

In the early 20th century, Switzerland had an absolute majority of Protestants (about 60%) and a large population of Catholics (about 40%).

Since the late 20th century and throughout the 21st century, the religious composition of the country has changed significantly, with a rise of the irreligious population, a sharp decline of Protestantism to about two tenths of the population, and a less sharp decline of Catholicism to about three tenths of the population.

Switzerland has no state religion, though most of its cantons (except for Geneva and Neuchâtel) recognise official churches (Landeskirchen), in all cases Catholic and Swiss Protestant, and in some cantons also the Old Catholic Church and Jewish congregations.

These churches are financed by taxation of their adherents.

In other words, taxpayer funded, albeit voluntarily.

A person can declare oneself to be irreligious and forego this tax payment.

Islam is the second largest religion in Switzerland after Christianity, adhered to by 5.4% of the population in 2020.

Swiss Muslims are mostly of foreign origin (mostly of Arab ancestry in the Gallo-Romance (French/Italian) regions, and mostly of Balkan, Turkish and Iranian ancestry in the Germanic regions), although there is an increasing number of native Swiss converts.

Above: Mosque, Wil, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Religious Jews represented 0.2% of the Swiss population in 2020.

Above: Jewish synagogue, La Chaux de Fonds, Canton Neuchâtel, Switzerland

Other religions present in the country include Hinduism and Buddhism, practised by both local Swiss who have nurtured interest in Eastern doctrines and by immigrants from Asia.

Above: Interior of Sri Sivasubrahmaniar Hindu Temple, Adliswil, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Der Wat Srinagarindravararam Thai Buddhist Temple, Gretzenbach, Canton Solothurn, Switzerland

There is a Taoist temple, Ming Shan (“Mountain of Light“), located in Bullet, Vaud, and built according to the rules of feng shui.

It is the headquarters of the Swiss Taoist Association and the main centre in Europe of the Taoist tradition of Wujimen (“Gate of Infinity“), which originated in the Min Mountains of Sichuan, China.

Above: Ming Shang Taoist Temple, Bullet, Canton Vaud, Switzerland

In the country there are also various new religious movements, among which one of the most influential has been the theosophy-derived anthroposophy.

Above: Logo for the Theosophical Society

(Theosophy is a commitment “to form a nucleus of the Universal Brotherhood of Humanity without distinction of race, creed, sex, caste or colour“.

Anthroposophy is a movement that postulates the existence of an objective, intellectually comprehensible spiritual world, accessible to human experience.

Followers of anthroposophy aim to engage in spiritual discovery through a mode of thought independent of sensory experience.

They also aim to present their ideas in a manner verifiable by rational discourse and in studying the spiritual world seek comparable precision and clarity to that obtained by scientists investigating the physical world.)

Above: Goetheanum, Dornach, Canton Solothurn, Switzerland

The Anthroposophical Society was established by the Austrian occultist Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s and 1930s in Dornach, Solothurn.

Above: Rudolf Steiner (1861 – 1925)

Some observers have identified persisting discrimination against Jews and Muslims in Switzerland.

While cases of harassment have mostly been verbal, after 2016 there were a few reports of physical assault against Jews.

Muslim cemeteries were targets of vandalism.

In the November 2009 referendum, 57.5% of Swiss voters approved a popular initiative which prohibited the construction of minarets as part of Swiss Islamic mosques (though the four existing minarets of mosques in Zürich, Geneva, Winterthur and Wangen bei Olten were not affected retroactively and have remained in place).

Above: Mahmud Mosque, Zürich

This referendum originates from action on 1 May 2007, when a group of right of centre politicians, mainly from the Swiss People’s Party (SVP) (the ruling party) and the Federal Democratic Union (EDU), the Egerkinger Komittee (“Egerkingen Committee“) launched a federal popular initiative that sought a constitutional ban on minarets.

Above: Logo of the SVP

The minaret at the mosque of the local Turkish cultural association in Wangen bei Olten was the initial motivation for the initiative.

The association applied for a construction permit to erect a 6-metre-high minaret on the roof of its Islamic community centre.

The project faced opposition from surrounding residents, who had formed a group to prevent the tower’s erection.

The Turkish association claimed that the building authorities improperly and arbitrarily delayed its building application.

They also believed that the members of the local opposition group were motivated by religious bias.

The Communal Building and Planning Commission rejected the association’s application.

The applicants appealed to the Building and Justice Department, which reverted the decision and remanded.

As a consequence of that decision, local residents and the commune of Wangen brought the case before the Administrative Court of the Canton of Solothurn, but failed with their claims.

On appeal the Federal Supreme Court affirmed the decision of the lower court.

The 6-metre / 20 foot -high minaret was erected in July 2009.

Above: Mosque, Wangen bei Olten, Canton Solothurn, Switzerland

The Committee opined that the interests of residents, who are disturbed by specific kinds of religious land uses, are to be taken seriously.

Moreover, it argued that Swiss residents should be able to block unwanted and unusual projects such as the erection of Islamic minarets.

The Committee alleged that:

The construction of a minaret has no religious meaning.

Neither in the Qu’ran nor in any other holy scripture of Islam is the minaret expressly mentioned at any point.

The minaret is far more a symbol of a claim of religious-political power.”

Above: Old mill, Egerkingen, Canton Solothurn, Switzerland

The initiators justified their point of view by quoting parts of a speech in 1997 by Recep Tayyip Erdogan (later Prime Minister and President of Turkey), which stated:

Mosques are our barracks, domes our helmets, minarets our bayonets, believers our soldiers.

This holy army guards my religion.”

Ulrich Schluer, one of the Egerkinger Committee’s most prominent spokesmen, stated on that point:

A minaret has nothing to do with religion:

It just symbolises a place where Islamic law is established.

Above: Ulrich Schlüer

The Committee’s campaign featured posters featuring a drawing of a Muslim woman in an abaya and niqab, next to a number of minarets on a Swiss flag pictured in a way “reminiscent of missiles“.

Above: “Stop“, “Yes to the minaret ban“.

The SVP also published a similar poster, with the minarets protruding through the Swiss flag.

A few days before the election, campaigners drove a vehicle near Geneva Mosque in the Le Petit-Saconnex quarter imitating the adhan, the Islamic call to ritual prayer (salat) using loudspeakers.

Above: “Censorship, one more reason to say yes to the minaret ban“.

The British newspaper The Times cited support of the minaret ban from “radical feminists” who opposed the oppression of women in Islamic societies.

Among those named were the notable Dutch feminist and former politician Ayaan Hirso Ali, who gave her support to the ban with an article entitled “Swiss ban on minarets was a vote for tolerance and inclusion“.

Above: Ayaan Hirsi Ali

The Times further reported that in pre-election polling, Swiss women supported the ban by a greater percentage than Swiss men.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

The traditionalist Society of St Pius X (SSPX), which has its headquarters at Ecône in Switzerland, supported the ban on minarets, denouncing opposition to the ban by some Catholic bishops:

The confusion is maintained by certain Vatican II Council authorities between tolerating a person, whatever his religion, and tolerating an ideology that is incompatible with Christian tradition.”

It explained its support of the ban:

The Islamic doctrine cannot be accepted when you know what it is all about.

How can one expect to condone the propagation of an ideology that encourages husbands to beat their wives, the “believer” to murder the “infidel”, a justice that uses body mutilation as punishment, and pushes to reject Jews and Christians?

Above: Logo of the Society of St. Pius X

On 28 August 2008 the Swiss Federal Council opposed a building ban on minarets.

It said that the popular initiative against their construction had been submitted in accordance with the applicable regulations, but infringed guaranteed international human rights and contradicted the core values of the Swiss Federal Constitution.

It believed a ban would endanger peace between religions and would not help to prevent the spread of fundamentalist Islamic beliefs.

In its opinion, the Federal Council therefore recommended the Swiss people to reject the initiative.

Above: Logo of the Swiss Confederation

On 24 October 2008 the Federal Commission against Racism criticized the initiative, claiming that it defamed Muslims and violated religious freedom, which was protected by fundamental human rights and the ban on discrimination.

The Swiss government recommended that the proposed amendment be rejected as inconsistent with the basic principles of the Constitution.

However, after the results were tabulated, the government immediately announced that the ban was in effect.

Above: Results of the Minaret Initiative, 2009

The Society for Minorities in Switzerland called for freedom and equality and started an Internet-based campaign in order to gather as many symbolic signatures as possible against a possible minaret ban.

Amnesty International warned the minaret ban aimed to exploit fears of Muslims and encourage xenophobia for political gains.

This initiative claims to be a defense against rampant Islamification of Switzerland.”, Daniel Bolomey, the head of Amnesty’s Swiss office, said in a statement cited by Agence France-Presse (AFP). “But it seeks to discredit Muslims and defames them, pure and simple.”

Economie Suisse considered that an absolute construction ban would hit Swiss foreign interests negatively, claiming that merely the launch of the initiative had caused turmoil in the Islamic world.

The Swiss-based Unser Recht (“Our Law“) association published a number of articles against the minaret ban.

In autumn 2009, the Swiss Journal of Religious Freedom launched a public campaign for religious harmony, security, and justice in Switzerland, and distributed several thousand stickers in the streets of Zürich in support of the right to religious freedom.

Roman Catholic bishops opposed a minaret ban.

A statement from the Swiss Bishops Conference said that a ban would hinder interreligious dialogue and that the construction and operation of minarets were already regulated by Swiss building codes.

The statement added that:

Our request for the initiative to be rejected is based on our Christian values and the democratic principles in our country.

The official journal of the Roman Catholic Church in Switzerland published a series of articles on the minaret controversy.

Above: Stiftskirche St. Gallen and Othmar, St. Gallen

The Federation of Swiss Protestant Churches held that the federal popular initiative was not about minarets, but was rather an expression of the initiators’ concern and fear of Islam.

It viewed a minaret ban as a wrong approach to express such objections.

Above: Logo of the Federation of Swiss Protestant Churches

The Swiss Federation of Jewish Communities was also against any ban on building minarets.

Dr Herbert Winter, the president of the Federation, said in 2009:

As Jews we have our own experience.

For centuries we were excluded:

We were not allowed to construct synagogues or cupola roofs.

We do not want that kind of exclusion repeated.

Above: Logo of the Swiss Federation of Jewish Communities

Other religious organisations described the idea of a complete minaret ban as lamentable:

  • the Association of Evangelical Free Churches

Above: Logo of the Swiss Association of Evangelical Free Churches

  • the Swiss Evangelical Alliance

  • the Old Catholic Church in Switzerland

Above: Jesuit Church, Luzern

  • the Covenant of Swiss Baptists

  • the Salvation Army

  • the Federation of Evangelical Lutheran Churches in Switzerland

Above: Worship service for the 500th anniversary of the Reformation and 50 years of the Federation of Lutheran Churches in Switzerland and the Principality of Liechtenstein

  • the Orthodox Diocese of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople

Above: Coat of Arms of the Ecumenical Patriarchate Constantinople

  • the Serbian Orthodox Church in Switzerland

Above: Official coat of arms of Serbian Orthodox Church

  • the Anglican Church in Switzerland

Above: Canterbury Cathedral, England

Marcel Stüssi argued that any ban would be incompatible with articles of international law, to which Switzerland was a signatory.

In any case, cantonal zoning laws already prohibited the construction of buildings that did not match their surroundings.

Right-wing initiatives like the minaret one can misuse the system,” said Stüssi.

He called the initiative “obsolete and unnecessary“, but added that the public discourse on the issue could put Switzerland in a positive light, at least for the majority who at that point opposed a ban.

In July 2008, before the popular initiative, he argued that:

Crisis always creates an opportunity.

A popular vote against a proposed ban would be the highest declaration for the recognition of the Swiss Muslim community.”

It would also be an expressed statement that anybody is equally subject to the law and to the political process,” Stüssi said in an interview with World Radio Switzerland.

Above: Marcel Stüssi, Faculty of Law, University of Luzern

Heinrich Koller stated that:

Switzerland must abide by international law because both systems together form a unity.”

Above: Heinrich Koller, University of Basel

Giusep Nay stated that any state action must be in accordance with fundamental material justice, and applied not only to interpretations of applicable law but also to new law.

Above: Giusep Nay, former President of the Swiss Supreme Court

Erwin Tanner saw the initiative as breaching not only the constitutionally entrenched right to religious freedom, but also the rights to freedom of expression, enjoyment of property, and equality.

Above: Erwin Tanner, director of Missio Switzerland

The editorial board of the Revue de Droit Suisse (Swiss Law Review) called for invalidation of the initiative as “it appears that the material content of popular initiatives is subject to ill-considered draftsmanship because the drafters are affected by particular emotions that merely last for snatches.”

Sami Aldeeb positioned himself for the ban on the erection of minarets in Switzerland, since in his opinion the Constitution allows prayer, but not shouting.

Above: Swiss Palestinian lawyer Sami Aldeeb

An independent study carried out by political scientists Markus Freitag (University of Konstanz), Thomas Milic and Adrian Vatter (University of Bern) noted a good level of knowledge among voters.

Contrary to what had been previously thought, the surveys before the referendum did not influence voters, as it is hard to do so with people who are accustomed to them.

Those who voted did so according to their political convictions, and by taking into account the different arguments.

The study also attributed the result to the fact that supporters of the ban overwhelmingly turned out to vote in the referendum.

In March 2010, the Geneva-based UN Human Rights Council (UNHRC) narrowly passed a resolution condemning “defamation of religion“, which included reference to “Islamophobic” bans on building new minarets on mosques.

Above: Logo for the United Nations Human Rights Council

The resolution was proposed by the Organization of the Islamic Conference (OIC).

OIC representative Babacar Ba said that the resolution was a “way to reaffirm once again our condemnation of the decision to ban construction of minarets in Switzerland.”

Above: Logo of the OIC

The resolution was opposed, mostly by Western nations, but it gained a majority due to the votes of Muslim nations, in addition to the support of other countries such as Cuba and China.

Eight states abstained.

Above: Flag of the United Nations

US Ambassador Eileen Donahoe criticized the resolution as an “instrument of division” and an “ineffective way to address” concerns about discrimination.

Above: Ambassador Eileen Donahue

The ban was also mentioned in the UNHRC special rapporteur on contemporary forms of racism, racial discrimination, xenophobia and related intolerance in his 2010 report to the UN General Assembly.

Above: UN General Assembly Hall, UN Headquarters, New York City

French Foreign Minister Bernard Kouchner condemned the ban, calling it “an expression of intolerance“, and said it amounted to “religious oppression“, hoping Switzerland would reverse its decision.

Above: Bernard Kouchner

Sweden condemned the ban, with Foreign Minister Carl Bildt stating that:

It’s an expression of quite a bit of prejudice and maybe even fear, but it is clear that it is a negative signal in every way, there’s no doubt about it“.

He also stated that:

Normally Sweden and other countries have city planners that decide this kind of issue.

To decide this kind of issue in a referendum seems very strange to me.”

Above: Carl Bildt

Then-Turkish President Abdullah Gül called the ban “shameful“.

Above: Abdullah Gül

Iranian Foreign Minister Manoucher Mottaki phoned his Swiss counterpart, and stated that the ban went “against the prestige of a country which claims to be an advocate of democracy and human rights“, and that it would “damage Switzerland’s image as a pioneer of respecting human rights among the Muslims’ public opinion“.

He also claimed that “values such as tolerance, dialogue, and respecting others’ religions should never be put to referendum“, and warned Switzerland of the “consequences of anti-Islamic acts“, and expressed hopes that the Swiss government would “take necessary steps and find a constitutional way to prevent the imposition of this ban“.

Above: Manouchehr Mottaki

Switzerland’s Ambassador to Iran was summoned before the Foreign Ministry, which protested against the ban.

Above: Logo of the Iranian Ministry of Foreign Affairs

Then-Libyan leader Muammar al-Gaddafi cited the minaret ban as grounds for his call for a jihad against Switzerland in a speech held in Benghazi on the occasion of Mawlid, four months after the vote.

Gaddafi also called on Muslims around the world to boycott Switzerland, and stated that:

Any Muslim in any part of the world that works with Switzerland is an apostate, is against Muhammad, Allah, and the Koran“.

Gaddafi called Switzerland an “infidel, obscene state which is destroying mosques“.

Above: Muammar al Gaddafi (1942 – 2011)

Libyan government spokesperson Mohammed Baayou announced that Libya had imposed an embargo on all economic and commercial exchanges with Switzerland.

Above: Flag of Libya

The Swiss referendum was welcomed by several European far right parties.

Above: Logo of the Alliance for the Future of Austria

Above: Logo of the Freedom Party of Austria

Above: Logo of the Danish People’s Party

Above: Logo of the Front National, France

Above: Logo of the Dutch Party for Freedom

Above: Logo of Italy’s Northern League

To my knowledge, the ban has never been reversed.

Above: On 8 December 2009, a mock minaret was erected over an industrial storage facility in Bussigny, Canton Vaud, Switzerland, in protest against the referendum outcome.

I must confess I am weary of Islamophobia, not because I am necessarily biased towards Islam as I now live in a predominantly Muslim nation, but because I have seen too many examples in religion and politics of entire groups being accused of the wrongdoing of a few within these groups.

We are not all the same.

We were born as individuals.

We live our lives as individuals.

We make individual decisions as to what we choose to believe, choose to think, choose to be.

The problem with religion is not with the faith itself, but rather with those who claim to follow that faith.

Above: Praying Hands, Albrecht Dürer

How many Muslims actually follow the teachings of Muhammad in the manner in which he intended?

Above: Al-Masjid an-Nabawi (“the Prophet’s mosque“) in Medina, Saudi Arabia, with the Green Dome built over Muhammad’s tomb in the centre

How many Christians actually act Christ-like?

Above: Christ the Saviour (Pantokrator), a 6th-century icon from Saint Catherine’s Monastery, Mount Sinai

How many Buddhists view the Buddha in the manner in which he wished to be viewed?

Above: Seated Buddha, Sarnath Museum, India

The same questioning can be extended to not only other religions but as well to the realms of philosophy and politics.

For example, how would Abraham Lincoln view the American Republican Party of today?

Above: Abraham Lincoln (1809 – 1865)

Above: Logo of the Republican Party

There are those who claim to represent Islam and do acts that run contrary to the sacred text of the Qu’ran.

Let us not paint the acts of a few as representative of the will of the majority.

Above: Muslim men at prayer, Umayyad Mosque, Damascus, Syria

No Muslim resident in Switzerland expects the adhan to be broadcast over Basel, just as no Christian in Turkey expects to hear church bells pealing in the streets of Konya.

Above: Images of Basel, Switzerland

Above: Konya, Turkey

Certainly it would be a fine thing to find minarets in Montreux or steeples in Izmir, but to assume that giving a minority the right to practice their faith will lead to that minority seeking to impose their faith upon the majority that surrounds them presupposes that every believer is infused with the zeal to become a missionary hellbent on converting the locals.

Above: Montreux, Switzerland

Above: Izmir, Turkey

That notion is as ridiculous as this Canadian blogger expecting everyone in Eskisehir to fly the maple leaf standard, subscribe to a sports channel that shows curling and ice hockey, and to demand poutine be served in all city restaurants.

Above: Flag of Canada

Above: Curling

Above: Ice hockey

Above: Poutine, Montréal, Québec, Canada

I did not come to Turkey expecting to make Canadians out of Turks.

Neither am I afraid of losing my Canadian identity to the Turkish environment that surrounds me.

I adapt insofar as I need to be respectful of the customs of the country wherein I find myself, but I will never become Turkish.

Because this is both impossible and undesirable.

My homeland is a part of who I am and though I may be distant from it Canada has defined who I am.

I will gladly try the local cuisine, try to learn the language, try to understand how the locals think.

But this is not to say I would prefer the fare of Trabzon to the cuisine of Toronto.

Above: Trabzon, Turkey

Above: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

This is not to say I will ever feel more comfortable speaking Turkish than my mother tongue of English.

This is not to say that an understanding of how the locals think will mean an automatic agreement with all that they think.

In Turkey, politics clashes with religion where the former feels threatened by the latter.

In Switzerland, politics attempts to use fear of unfamiliar faiths to exercise control over its native population.

In both nations, and perhaps universally around the globe, the reality of the conflict is never about morality.

It has been and always will be about wealth and power.

Religion may be the excuse, but it is never the real reason.

Religion should not involve itself in politics nor government regulate faith.

But what should be rarely is.

Please don’t tell me what to believe.

Please don’t tell me how to believe.

When I consider the gates of Heaven I find myself wondering:

Can we get there from here?

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Andrew Finkel, Turkey: What Everyone Needs to Know / Magsie Hamilton Little, The Thing about Islam: Exposing the Myths, Facts and Controversies / Orhan Pamuk, The Museum of Innocence