The right rites?

Above: Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi during a ceremony marking the start of construction of a Ram temple in Ayodhya, India – 5 August 2020

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 21 August 2022

More than a century ago, wanderlust was not a desirable trait.

Instead it was considered a psychological condition.

Albert Dadas was the first man diagnosed for “travelling obsessively, often without identification or a specific reason for why he was travelling” in France in the 1890s.

Dadas would become one of many in the epidemic of Frenchmen who were locked up for wandering, be it across borders or continents, with no apparent destination or set plan in mind.

These men, when caught, would be put into a jail or a mental asylum.

They were eventually diagnosed amongst professionals as “pathological tourists“.

These diagnoses would continue in France for 23 years, from 1886 to 1909.

The epidemic would eventually have cultural repercussions for its misuse as a convenient diagnosis rather than a true psychiatric condition.

Doctors would label men as pathological tourists for any behaviour that were seen as outside as social norms.

Left your wife?

Pathological tourist.

Left the army?

Pathological tourist.

Quit your job?

Pathological tourist.

Above: Charlie Chaplin (1889 – 1977) strolling in The Tramp (1915)

As I sit down to write this blogpost, I have recently just returned to my apartment from a month of mostly travelling.

I feel hazy and disoriented.

I look around my living room and I am reminded that I am back to reality.

A physical reaction to this realization: a rush in my chest, followed by…..

Absolute nothingness.

The escapism I had sought and found when I was away is now merely a memory.

I find myself imagining where my next escape will be.

To wander the world with no apparent destination in mind.

I rarely stop to consider the intent behind my travels.

I believe that travel makes us interesting.

Is that why most people travel?

Above: James Stewart (1908 – 1997) (George Bailey) and Thomas Mitchell (1892 – 1962) (Uncle Billy), It’s a Wonderful Life (1946)

Any active participant in modern day society is prone to a series of low level addictive behaviours, checking our phones, finishing shows we don’t like, travelling not because we want to but because we want to be able to say that we went.

We are looking for diversions.

Freedom is not having more brands of cereal to choose from or more beach vacations to take selfies on.” (Mark Manson, Everything is F***ed)

90% of young travellers share their vacation photos on social media during their trip.

#Wanderlust has over 108 million posts on Instagram.

Travel is an entirely beautiful and enriching facet to life, but why do so many of us travel today?

Perhaps travel is a quick fix that provides immediate relief, experienced in the brain the same as pleasure.

Perhaps we seek to escape relationships or office life.

Perhaps travel helps with the pain of considering life mundane.

Perhaps travel makes us feel validated to have others call us well-travelled.

Perhaps some people believe that a move will make a fresh start, that their symptoms and suffering will vanish.

But new does not always mean better.

Certainly there are periods of peace and days of distraction, but the anxiety ascends, the depression descends, the addictive effects of the agony artificially abandoned return.

Because wherever you go, there you are.

But travel still has its trophies, to go is to gain growth and perspective.

Keep travelling.

Go far, explore often, meet new people, make new friends, learn new things.

Escape can effect enrichment.

Pain is postponed, suffering substituted, experience embraced leads to an upgrade of living.

If I were asked under what sky the human mind has most deeply pondered over the great problems of life and has found solutions to some of them which well deserve the attention even of those who have studied Plato and Kant –

I should point to India.

And if I were to ask myself from what literature we who have been nurtured almost exclusively on the thoughts of Greeks and Romans, and of one Semitic race, the Jewish, may draw the corrective which is most wanted in order to make our inner life more perfect, more comprehensive, more universal, in fact more truly human a life –

Again I should point to India.

(Max Müller)

Above: German philosopher Max Müller (1906 – 1994)

A land of remarkable diversity – from ancient traditions and artistic heritage to magnificent landscapes and culinary creations – India ignites my curiosity, a land that shakes the senses and warms the soul.

From the towering icy peaks of the northern mountains to the sun-bleached beaches of the southern coast, India’s terrain is breathtaking.

Exquisite temples rise majestically out of pancake-flat deserts.

Crumpling fortresses peer over plunging ravines.

Aficionados of the great outdoors can scout for big jungle cats on wildlife safaris, paddle in shimmering waters, trek high in the Himalaya, or simply inhale pine-scented air on a meditative forest walk.

Spirituality is the common characteristic painted across the vast and varied canvas that is contemporary India.

The multitude of sacred sites and rituals are testament to the country’s long and colourful religious history.

India can be challenging and yet this is the experience of India.

To embrace India’s unpredictability is to embrace one’s soul.

Above: Flag of India

With monkeys galore, the usual smattering of cows and even the odd working elephant, the relatively-free streets of Ayodhya would be an intriguing place to spend some time even if it wasn’t for the religious significance of the place.

Ayodhya (population: 55,890) is a city situated on the banks of the holy river Saryu in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh.

Above: Ram ki Paidi Ghat, Ayodhya, Uttar Pradesh, India

Ayodhya, also known as Saketa, is an ancient city of India, the alleged birthplace of Rama and the setting of the great epic Ramayana

Above: Rama is depicted blue-skinned and carrying a strung bow with a quiver full of arrows on his back and a single arrow in his right hand, British Museum, London, England

(Rama is the 7th and one of the most popular avatars of Vishnu (God).

The entire life story of Rama, his wife Sita, and their companions allegorically discusses duties, rights and social responsibilities of an individual.

It illustrates dharma (duty) and dharmic living through model characters.

He is the central figure of the ancient Hindu epic Ramayana, a text historically popular in the South Asian and Southeast Asian cultures

The Ramayana is one of the largest ancient epics in world literature, consisting of nearly 24,000 verses.

It belongs to the genre of itihasa (narratives of past events/puravrtta) interspersed with teachings on the goals of human life.)

Above: Rama with his wife Sita and brother Lakshmana during their exile in the forest

Ayodhya is not only the birthplace of Rama and as such one of Hinduism’s seven holy cities nor is it just the birthplace of four of Jainism’s 24 tirthankaras (religious teachers), this is also the site of one of modern India’s most controversial religious disputes.

Above: Sapta Puri – the seven holy cities of Hinduism

(Jainism is one of the world’s oldest religions in practice to this day. 

An ancient Indian religion, Jainism traces its spiritual ideas and history through the succession of 24 tirthankaras (supreme preachers of Dharma) – with the 1st in the current time cycle being Rishabhadeva, whom tradition holds to have lived millions of years ago, the 23rd tirthankara Parshwanatha, whom historians date to the 9th century BCE, and the 24th tirthankara Mahavira, around 600 BCE.

Jainism is considered to be an eternal dharma with the tirthankaras guiding every time cycle of the cosmology.

The three main pillars of Jainism are ahimsa (non-violence), anekantavada (non-absolutism), and aparigraha (asceticism).

The religion has between four and five million followers, known as Jains, who reside mostly in India.

Outside India, some of the largest communities are in Canada, Europe, and the US, with Japan hosting a fast-growing community of converts.

Estimates for the population of Jains differ from just over 4 million to 12 million.)

Above: This is the official symbol of Jainism, known as the Jain Prateek Chihna.




 

The early Buddhist and Jain canonical texts mention that the religious leaders Gautama Buddha and Mahavira visited and lived in the city.

Above: Statue of Gautama Buddha (563 – 483 BCE), preaching his first sermon at Sarnath. 
Archaeological Museum, Sarnath, India.

Above: Statue of Mahavira (599 – 527 BCE), 24th tirthanaka of Jainism at Shri Mahavirji, Karauli, Hindaun, Rajasthan, India

The Jain texts also describe it as the birthplace of five tirthankaras and associate it with the legendary Bharata Chakravarti.

Above: Statue of Bharata, the first possessor of chakra (world domination) in our present half-time cycle of Jain cosmology, as a monk at Chandragiri Hill, Shravanabelagola, Karnataka, India

From the Gupta period (4th – 6th centuries) onwards, several sources mention Ayodhya and Saketa as the name of the same city.

Above: A view of the ancient city of Ayodhya in India, in the Ayodhya district of Uttar Pradesh.

Owing to the belief as the birthplace of Ram, Ayodhya has been regarded as one of the seven most important pilgrimage sites for Hindus.

It is believed that a temple stood at the supposed birthplace of Rama, which was demolished by the orders of the Mughal Emperor Babur and a mosque erected in its place.

Above: Babur (‘tiger‘) (1483 – 1530) (né Mīrzā Zahīr ud-Dīn Muhammad), founder of the Mughal Empire (16th – 19th centuries) in the Indian subcontinent

In 1992, the dispute over the spot led to the demolition of the mosque by Hindu mobs, who aimed to rebuild a grand temple of Rama at the site. 

Above: Demolition of the Babri Masjid, Sunday 6 December 1992

A five-judge full bench of the Supreme Court heard the title cases from August to October 2019 and ruled that the land belonged to the government per tax records, and ordered it to be handed over to a trust to build a Hindu temple.

Above: Emblem of the Supreme Court of India

It also ordered the government to give an alternative 5 acres (2.0 ha) of land to the Uttar Pradesh Sunni Central Waqf Board to build a mosque in lieu of the demolished Babri mosque.

The construction of Ram Mandir commenced in August 2020.

Above: Narendra Modi performing Bhoomi Pujan ceremony for temple construction commencement

The Ayodhya dispute is a political, historical, and socio-religious debate in India, centred on a plot of land in the city of Ayodhya.

The issues revolve around the control of a site traditionally regarded among Hindus to be the birthplace of their deity Rama, the history and location of the Babri Masjid at the site, and whether a previous Hindu temple was demolished or modified to create a mosque, the Babri Masjid.

Many attempts were thwarted previously, one of which led to the 1990 Ayodhya firing incident.

Above: Babri Masjid (1528 – 1992)

The Ayodhya firing describes the occasion when the Uttar Pradesh opened fire on civilians on two separate days, 30 October 1990 and 2 November 1990, in the aftermath of the Ram Rath Yatra (a political and religious rally by the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) and its Hindu nationalist affiliates. 

The civilians were kar sevaks (religious volunteers), assembled near the Ram Janmabhoomi site at Ayodhya.

The state government’s official records reported that 50 people were killed.

Above: Ayodhya firing incident, Thursday 1 November 1990

On 30 October 1990, the police barred all bus and train services to Ayodhya.

Most kar sevaks reached Ayodhya by foot.

Some swam across the Sarayu River.

Above: Sarayu River, Bageshwar

The police also barricaded the 1.5 km-long climb to the disputed structure and imposed a curfew.

According to the investigatory Liberhan Commission report, issued after the event:

  • 28,000 Uttar Pradesh Provincial Armed Constabulary personnel were deployed in Ayodhya.
  • Out of 40,000 kar sevaks, only 10,000 managed to reach Ayodhya

At around 10am, a large group of kar sevaks headed towards the site, this led to a mob frenzy and open confrontation between civilians and policemen.

At around 11am, a Hindu holy man (sadhu) managed to gain control of an Armed Constabulary bus in which the police were holding detainees.

The sadhu drove the bus right through the barricades, clearing a way for the others to follow on foot.

The security forces were caught off guard and were forced to chase about 5,000 kar sevaks, who stormed through the heavily guarded site.

Above: Logo of the Uttar Pradesh Provincial Armed Constabulary

According to eyewitnesses a saffron flag was mounted the Kothari brothers mounted atop the Babri Masjid.

Above: Hindu flag with the letter OM at its centre

On orders, government security personnel fired on the crowd and chased kar sevaks across the area.

Many people died from head wounds.

There was a stampede at the Saryu Bridge, which killed a number of people.

Above: Saryu Bridge, Sarayu River, Ayodhya

On the morning of 2 November 1990, assembled kar sevaks offered prayers (pooja) at Ramlila and then proceeded to Babri Masjid.

Members of the crowd used the strategy of touching security personnel’s feet, which made them withdraw a step.

This worked for a while, and the procession continued.

Above: Ayodhya firing incident procession

However, the police took firm action by using tear gas and baton charges to disperse the crowd.

Nevertheless, some contingents of kar sevaks reached and partially damaged the mosque.

In response, the police opened fire for the second time in 72 hours, and chased kar sevaks through the alleys around Hanumangarhi.

In one place, later named Shaheed Gali (Martyr’s Alley), police killed many kar sevaks.

Above: Bodies of kar sevaks

Some Indians have accused the police of disposing of many dead bodies, either by cremating them at unknown places or by dumping them into the Saryu River in sacks.

News of the shootings was mostly suppressed from the Indian media, but some local and international media outlets mentioned them.

The firing incident had a major impact on Uttar Pradesh and on Indian national politics.

The Chief Minister of Uttar Pradesh was given the sobriquet ‘Mulla’ Mulayam Singh for his pro-Muslim stance during the incident.

He described his decision to fire on the crowd in Ayodhya as “painful yet necessary as it was ordered by the High Court to maintain peace, law and order till the judgment come out “.

Above: Uttar Pradesh Chief Minister Mulayam Singh Yadav

Ayodhya became tragically synonymous with Hindu extremism in 1992 when rioting Hindus tore down the Babri Masjid, a mosque built by the Moghuls in the 15th century, which Hindus claimed stood on the site of an earlier Rama temple, marking Lord Rama’s birthplace.

The demolition of the Babri Masjid was illegally carried out on 6 December 1992 by a large group of activists of the Vishva Hindu Parishad and allied organizations.

Above: Demolition of the Babri Masjid

The 16th-century Babri Masjid in the city of Ayodhya had been the subject of a lengthy socio-political dispute, and was targeted after a political rally organised by Hindu nationalist organizations turned violent.

In the 16th century a Mughal general, Mir Baqi, had built a mosque, known as the Babri Masjid at a site identified by some Hindus as Ram Janmabhoomi, or the birthplace of Rama.

Above: Baqi Tashqandi (aka Mir Baqi) (14th century)

The Archaeological Survey of India states that the mosque was built on land where a non-Islamic structure had previously existed.

In the 1980s, the Vishva Hindu Parishad (VHP) began a campaign for the construction of a temple dedicated to Rama at the site, with the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) as its political voice.

Several rallies and marches were held as a part of this movement.

Above: Logo of the Vishva Hindu Parishad, depicting a Banyan tree and the slogan dharmo raksati raksitah (The Dharma protects those who protect it.)

Above: Logo of India’s ruling party, the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP)

On 6 December 1992, the VHP and the BJP organised a rally at the site involving 150,000 volunteers, known as kar sevaks.

During the first few hours of the rally, the crowd grew gradually more restless, and began raising slogans.

A police cordon had been placed around the structure in preparation for attack.

However, around noon, a young man managed to slip past the cordon and climb the structure itself, brandishing a saffron flag.

This was seen as a signal by the mob, who then stormed the structure.

The police cordon, vastly outnumbered and unprepared for the size of the attack, fled.

The mob set upon the building with axes, hammers, and grappling hooks, and within a few hours, the entire structure, made from mud and chalk, was levelled.

Above: Demolition of the Babri Masjid

A subsequent inquiry into the incident found 68 people responsible, including several leaders of the BJP and the VHP.

Above: Judge Manmohan Singh Liberhan of the Liberhan Commission investigating the Demolition incident

The ensuing riots spread to cities like Mumbai (formerly named Bombay), Surat, Ahmedabad, Kanpur, Delhi, Bhopal, and several others, eventually resulting in over 2,000 deaths, mainly Muslim.

Above: Mumbai (formerly Bombay)

Above: Surat

Above: Ahmedabad

Above: Kanpur

Above: The Red Fort, Delhi, India

Above: Bhopal

The Bombay Riots alone, which occurred in December 1992 and January 1993 caused the death of around 900 people, and estimated property damage of around $3.6 billion. 

The demolition and the ensuing riots were among the major factors behind the 1993 Mumbai bombings and many successive riots in the coming decade. 

In the Bombay riots in December 1992 and January 1993, an estimated 900 people died.

The riots were mainly due to escalations of hostilities after large scale protests by Muslims in reaction to the 1992 Babri Masjid demolition in Ayodha and by Hindu mobs in regards with the Ram Temple issue.

Historian Barbara Metcalf has described the riots as an anti-Muslim pogrom, where the official death toll was of 275 Hindus, 575 Muslims and 50 others.

Above: Bombay (Mumbai) riots

The riots were followed by the 12 March 1993 Bombay Bombings.

Above: Promotional poster for the movie inspired by the events of Friday 12 March 1993

At 13:30 hours on 12 March 1993, a powerful car bomb exploded in the basement of the Bombay Stock Exchange (BSE) building.

The 28-story office building was severely damaged and many nearby office buildings also suffered damage.

Reports indicate that 50 were killed by this explosion.

Above: BSE Building, Dalal Street, Mumbai

About 30 minutes later, another car bomb exploded in front of the Mandvi branch of Corporation Bank near Masjid.

Above: Bombay Bombing, 12 March 1993

From 13:30 hours to 15:40 hours a total of 12 bombs exploded throughout Mumbai.

Most of the bombs were car bombs but some were in scooters.

Three hotels – the Hotel Sea Rock, Hotel Juhu Centaur, and Hotel Airport Centaur – were targeted by suitcase bombs left in rooms booked by the perpetrators.

Above: Hotel Sea Rock, Mumbai

Above: Centaur Hotel, Juhu, Mumbai

Banks, the regional passport office, the Air India Building, and a major shopping complex were also hit.

Above: Air India building, Marine Drive, Mumbai

Bombs exploded at Zaveri Bazaar and opposite it, a jeep bomb exploded at the Century Bazaar.

Above: Zaveri Bazaar, Mumbai

Above: Century Bazaar bombing, 12 March 1993

Grenades were thrown at Sahar International Airport and at Fishermen’s Colony, apparently targeting certain citizens at the latter.

Above: Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport, Mumbai

Above: Fisherman’s Colony, Mumbai

A double-decker bus was very badly damaged in the deadliest explosion, with as many as 90 people killed.

The official number of fatalities was 257 with 1,400 others injured.

Jihadi groups, including the Indian Mujahideen, cited the demolition of the Babri Masjid as a reason for their terrorist attacks.

In Pakistan, the government closed offices and schools on 7 December to protest against the demolition of the Babri Masjid. 

Above: Flag of Pakistan

The Pakistani Foreign Ministry summoned the Indian Ambassador to lodge a formal complaint, and promised to appeal to the United Nations (UN) and the Organization of Islamic Cooperation (OIC) to pressure India to protect the rights of Muslims.

Above: Flag of the United Nations

Above: Flag of the Organization of Islamic Cooperation (OIC)

Strikes were held across the country, while Muslim mobs attacked and destroyed as many as 30 temples in one day by means of fire and bulldozers, and stormed the office of Air India, India’s national airline, in Lahore. 

Above: Images of Lahore, Pakistan

The retaliatory attacks included rhetoric from mobs calling for the destruction of India and of Hinduism.

Students from the Quaid-i-Azam University in Islamabad burned an effigy of Indian Prime Minister, P.V. Narashima Rao and called for “jihad” against Hindus. 

Above: Islamabad, Pakistan

In subsequent years, thousands of Pakistani Hindus visiting India sought longer visas, and in some cases citizenship of India, citing increased harassment and discrimination in the aftermath of the demolition.

Following the demolition, Muslim mobs in Bangladesh attacked and burned down Hindu temples, shops and houses across the country.

Above: Flag of Bangladesh

An India-Bangladesh cricket match was disrupted when a mob of an estimated 5,000 men tried to storm the Bangabandhu National Stadium in the national capital of Dhaka.

Above: Bangabandhu National Stadium, Dhaka, Bangladesh

The Dhaka office of Air India was stormed and destroyed.

Ten people were reportedly killed, 11 Hindu temples and several homes destroyed.

Above: Dhaka, Bangladesh

The aftermath of the violence forced the Bangladeshi Hindu community to curtail the celebrations of Durga Puja in 1993, while calling for the destroyed temples to be repaired and investigations be held into the atrocities.

Above: Durga Puja, also called Durgotsava, is an annual Hindu festival in the Indian subcontinent that reveres the goddess Durga. It is particularly popular in West Bengal, Bihar, Jharkhand, Odisha, Assam, Tripura, Bangladesh and the diaspora from this region, and also in Nepal where it is called Dashain. The festival is observed in the Hindu calendar month of Ashvin, typically September or October of the Gregorian calendar, and is a multi-day festival that features elaborate temple and stage decorations (pandals), scripture recitation, performance arts, revelry, and processions. It is a major festival in the Shaktism tradition of Hinduism across India and Shakta Hindu diaspora. Depicted is Devi Durga killing Mahishasura with her trident riding her vahana lion, while Lakshmi and Ganesha flank the left and Saraswati and Kartikeya flank on the right.

At its summit meeting in Abu Dhabi, the Gulf Cooperation Council strongly condemned the Babri Masjid demolition.

Above: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates (UAE)

It adopted a resolution which described the act as a “crime against Muslim holy places“.

Above: Flag of the Gulf Cooperation Council

Among its member states, Saudi Arabia severely condemned the act.

Above: Flag of Saudi Arabia

The United Arab Emirates (UAE), home to large expatriate communities of Indians and Pakistanis, conveyed a more moderate reaction.

In response, the Indian government criticized the GCC for what it regarded as interference in its internal affairs.

Above: Flag of the United Arab Emirates

Ayatollah Ali Khamenei condemned the demolition and called upon India to do more to protect its Muslim population. 

Above: Iran’s Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei

Although its government condemned the events, the UAE experienced severe public disturbances due to the demolition of the Babri Mosque.

Street protests broke out, and protesters threw stones at a Hindu temple and the Indian Consulate in Dubai.

Above: Images of Dubai, UAE

In Al-Ain, 250 km east of Abu Dhabi, angry mobs set fire to the girls’ wing of an Indian school.

Above: Qasr Al Muwaiji, Al Ain, UAE

In response to the violence, UAE police arrested and deported many expatriate Pakistanis and Indians who had participated in the violence.

The Commander-in-Chief of the Dubai police force, Dhahi Khalfan, condemned the violence by foreign nationals in his country.

Above: Dhahi Khalfan

Hindus built Ram Janam Bhumi in its place.

Above: Ram Manir, Ayodhya (when completed)

The problem eventually reached the High Court.

Archaeological investigations were carried out at the site.

In September 2010, the Allahabad High Court ruled that the site should be split equally between three religious groups: two Hindu, one Muslim.

The Muslim group Sunni Wapf Board vowed to appeal against the decision.

Above: High Court, Allahabad, India

A day after the demolition of the mosque, on 7 December 1992, the New York Times reported that over 30 Hindu temples across Pakistan were attacked, some set on fire, and one demolished.

The government of Pakistan closed school and offices in a day of protest. 

Hindu temples in Bangladesh were also attacked.

Some of these Hindu temples that were partially destroyed during the retaliation of Babri Masjid have since remained that way.

On 5 July 2005, five terrorists attacked the makeshift Ram temple at the site of destroyed Babri Mosque.

All five were shot dead in the ensuing gunfight with the Central Reserve Police Force (CRPF), while one civilian died in the grenade attack that the attackers launched in order to breach the cordoned wall.

The CRPF suffered three casualties, two of whom were seriously injured with multiple gunshot wounds.

Above: Ram Mandir (once completed)

Since then, security around the Ram Janam Bhumi has remained incredibly tight.

Visitor must first show their passports, then leave all their belongings and money behind in nearby lockers.

The visitor is then searched several times before being accompanied through a caged corridor that leads to a spot 20 metres away from a makeshift tent of a shrine that marks Rama’s birthplace.

Above: Ram Manir, Ayodhya (once completed)

Ayodhya, Uttar Pradesh, India, Wednesday 5 August 2020

As priests in saffron robes chanted hymns, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi sprinkled sacred water and flowers into a small robe, part of a ritual marking the start of construction of a grand Hindu temple.

It was an event for the history books.

The ceremony in northern India represents a signal victory for Modi and Hindu nationalism in their quest to transform the nation – a vast, multireligious democracy founded on secular ideals – into a state dominated by the Hindu majority.

Above: Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi, Ram Mandir, Ayodhya, 5 August 2020

For nearly 500 years, a mosque stood at the same spot in the city of Ayodhya.

Hindu extremists illegally razed the mosque in 1992, setting off bloody nationwide riots.

India’s Supreme Court handed control of the site to Hindu groups in 2019 after a protracted legal battle.

Above: Demolition of Babri Masjid, 6 December 1992

Modi struck a triumphant tone as he presided over the culmination of India’s most bitter religious dispute.

The entire country is emotional and overwhelmed.“, he said.

Today centuries of waiting are over.

The ceremony, broadcast live across the country, was scaled down because of the corona virus pandemic.

With infections rising and the economy struggling, the temple groundbreaking is a welcome diversion for Modi, India’s most powerful Prime Minister in almost five decades.

Above: Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi, 5 August 2020

The ceremony underlined how quickly – and dramatically – Modi has moved to put his stamp on this nation of more than 1.3 billion people since winning a landslide re-election victory in May 2019.

Above: Official portrait of Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi

A year ago, he revoked the semi-autonomy granted to Kashmir, India’s only Muslim majority region, breaking with seven decades of Indian policy.

Above: Map of the Kashmir region

In December, his government passed a law that excluded Muslim migrants from a fast track to citizenship.

In February, Hindu-Muslim riots erupted in Delhi, the deadliest such violence in the capital since Indian independence.

Above: Delhi riots, February 2020

India’s Muslim community has viewed these developments with alarm.

Although roughly 200 million Muslims live in India, they represent only 14% of the population.

They face discrimination in employment and housing and fare poorly on measures of socioeconomic progress.

Now many of them fear they are becoming second class citizens.

Above: Allah in Arabic calligraphy

The construction of the temple in Ayodhya is a prime example.

For three decades, the campaign to build the temple devoted to Lord Rama, a beloved deity, has been the animating principle of India’s ruling Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP).

The issue fused religion and politics in an amalgam that proved both effective and combustible.

Many Hindus revere the site as the spot where Lord Ram was born.

For some, the ceremony fulfills a yearning to honour a god worshipped for his heroism and virtue.

Above: Rama is portrayed in Hindu arts and texts as a compassionate person who cares for all living beings.

But the push to build the temple is not a simple act of religious devotion.

Hindu nationalists view much of recent Indian history as a series of humiliations – centuries of rule by Muslim kings and the British Empire – that must be rectified.

They believe a Hindu temple originally stood at the site in Ayodhya and was later torn down by India’s Muslim rulers.

The subsequent destruction of the mosque and the ultimate construction of the temple are viewed as the remedy to years of subjugation.

Above: The Mughal Empire at its greatest extent, 1700

Above: 1909 map of India, showing British India in two shades of pink and princely states in yellow

The Ram temple is a “symbol of nationalism“, said Dattatreya Hosabale, a senior Hindu nationalist ideologue, at an event in Delhi in July.

It was meant for regaining the self, which was damaged by foreign aggressors.

Above: Dattatreya Hosabale

Hindu nationalism is a majoritarian ideology that seeks to create a state “where minorities have to give up their separate identity and pay allegiance to the dominant culture“, said Christophe Jaffrelot, a political scientist at the Paris Institute of Political Studies.

The construction of the Ram temple is “one more blow” to India’s secular foundations, but there will be others, said Jaffrelot, who studies the Hindu nationalist movement.

Above: Coat of arms of the Paris Institute of Political Studies

The temple will rise to 161 feet at its highest point.

Construction is expected to be completed in 2023, the year before India’s next national elections.

In the meantime, there are plans to transform Ayodhya – a small city on the Sarayu River – with a new railway station, a new airport and a towering statue of Lord Ram.

Above: Model of Ram Mandir once completed

The temple is being built at the site of the former Babri mosque, which was completed in the 16th century.

The legal tussle over whether Hindus or Muslims should control the site began 70 years ago, but it did not emerge as a national flash point until the BJP made the construction of the temple its signature issue and organized processions to Ayodhya, where party leaders rallied supporters to their cause.

After one such rally in 1992, a mob using axes, hammers, and their bare hands razed the mosque.

The demolition sparked riots across the country that are estimated to have killed 2,000 people.

The temple project was also at the root of deadly riots in Gujarat in 2002 that left more than 1,000 people died, mostly Muslims.

Above: Demolition of the Babri Masjid, 6 December 1992

A.G. Noorani, a lawyer and constitutional expert who wrote a book on the Ram temple dispute, said the groundbreaking left him dejected.

I feel saddened and depressed.“, he said.

This is no longer the same India.

Narendra Modi has seen to it that it becomes a Hindu India.”

Above: Abdul Ghafoor Majeed Noorani (aka A.G. Noorani)

The temple construction officially started again after a Bhoomi Poojan ceremony on 5 August 2020.

Three-day long Vedic rituals were held ahead of the ground-breaking ceremony, which revolved around the installation of a 40 kg silver brick as the foundation stone by Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi.

Above: Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi lays the foundation stone of Ram Mandir

On 4 August, the Ramarchan Puja was performed, an invitation to all the major gods and goddesses.

Above: Ramarchan Puja ceremony, Ayodhya, 4 August 2020

On the occasion of the Bhoomi-Pooja, soil and holy water from several religious places across India were collected.

Soil was also sent from various temples across the nation to bless the upcoming temple.

Soil was also sent form the four pilgrimage locations of Char Dham.

Above: Bhoomi-Pooja ceremony, Ayodhya, 5 August 2020

Temples in the US, Canada, Trinidad and Tobago, Guyana and Suriname held a virtual service to celebrate the occasion. 

Above: Flag of the United States of America

Above: Flag of Canada

Above: Flag of Trinidad and Tobago

Above: Flag of Guyana

Above: Flag of Suriname

Rama’s image was shown at Times Square. 

Above: Times Square, New York City, 5 August 2020

All 7,000 temples in a 7-km radius of Hanumangarhi were also asked to join in the celebrations by lighting diyas.

Muslims devotees in Ayodhya who consider Rama as their ancestor also looked forward to the bhoomi-puja.

Spiritual leaders from all faiths were invited on the occasion.

On 5 August, Prime Minister Modi first offered prayers at Hanumangarhi to seek blessings of Hanuman for the day’s events.

Above: Hanuman Garhi Temple, Ayodhya

Following this the ground breaking and foundation stone laying ceremony of Ram Mandir took place.

Yogi Adityanath, Mohan Bhagwat, Nritya Gopal Das and Narendra Modi gave speeches.

Above: Uttar Pradesh Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath

Above: Mohan Bhagwat, 6th Sarsanghchalak (head) of the Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh, an Indian right-wing, Hindu nationalist, paramilitary volunteer organization

Above: Mahant Nrityagopal Das, head of Ayodhya’s largest temple

Modi started his speech with Jai Siya Ram (glory to Sita and Rama) and urged those in attendance to chant it with him.

Above: Ram and Sita figurines

He stated, “the call of Jai Siya Ram is resonating not only in the city of Lord Ram but throughout the world today” and that “Ram Mandir will become the modern symbol of our traditions“.

Narendra Modi also paid his respects to the many who had made sacrifices for the Ram temple.

Mohan Bhagwat also thanked L.K. Advani for his contributions to the movement to get the temple built.

Above: Lal Krishna Advani, former Deputy Prime Minister of India (r. 2002 – 2004)

Modi also planted a sapling of Parijat tree (night-flowering jasmine).

Above: Jasmine blossoms

In front of the deity, Modi performed a dandvat pranam / sashtang pranam, lying completely prone on the ground with hands outstretched in prayer.

Above: Indian Prime Minister Modi practising dandvat pranam, 5 August 2020

Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, attendees at the temple were limited to 175.

Above: Ram Mandir, 5 August 2020

(The COVID-19 pandemic in India is a part of the worldwide pandemic of the corona virus disease 2019 (COVID-19) caused by severe acute respiratory syndrome corona virus 2 (SARS-CoV-2).

As of 21 August 2022, according to official figures, India has the 2nd highest number of confirmed cases in the world (after the US) with 44,298,864 reported cases of COVID-19 infection and the 3rd highest number of COVID-19 deaths (after the US and Brazil) at 527,206 deaths.

But these official numbers are suspected to be significant undercounts.

Above: Flag of Brazil

The first cases of COVID-19 in India were reported on 30 January 2020 in three towns of Kerala, among three Indian medical students who had returned from Wuhan (China), the epicenter of the pandemic.

Above: Wuhan, China

Lockdowns were announced in Kerala on 23 March, and in the rest of the country on 25 March.

Above: Emblem of Kerala State, India

Infection rates started to drop in September.

Daily cases peaked mid-September with over 90,000 cases reported per day, dropping to below 15,000 in January 2021.

A second wave beginning in March 2021 was much more devastating than the first, with shortages of vaccines, hospital beds, oxygen cylinders and other medical supplies in parts of the country. 

By late April, India led the world in new and active cases.

On 30 April 2021, it became the first country to report over 400,000 new cases in a 24-hour period.

Above: COVID-19 cases in India as of 18 May 2021

Experts stated that the virus may reach an endemic stage in India rather than completely disappear.

In late August 2021, Soumya Swaminathan, Chief Scientist at the World Health Organization, said India may be in some stage of endemicity where the country learns to live with the virus.

Above: Soumya Swaminathan

 

By 23 December 2021, India had 78,190 active cases which was lowest in 573 days. 

This number fell to 21,530 in March 2022.

India began its vaccination programme on 16 January 2021.

On 30 January 2022, India announced that it administered about 1.7 billion doses of vaccines and more than 720 million people were fully vaccinated.)

Some priests and religious leaders complained that the ceremony did not follow proper ritual procedures, claiming, among others, that 5 August was not a ritually auspicious date and that the function did not include a havan (or homa) (a fire ritual performed on special occasions by a Hindu priest, usually for a homeowner).

Above: A homa fire ritual

In this respect, writer Arundhati Roy, a noted critic of Modi, pointed out that the chosen date marked one year since the revocation of the special status of Jammu and Kashmir, arguing that the decision to schedule the ceremony for 5 August, which she claimed was an inauspicious date with no significance in the Hindu calendar, symbolized the conclusion of a period “in which India under Modi has formally declared itself a Hindu Nation, the dawning of a new era“.

Above: Indian author Arundhati Roy

Among the international community, Pakistan made an official statement through its Pakistan Foreign Office related to the temple.

The Times of India also reported that post Ram Mandir ground–breaking, Pakistani Hundus fear violence in the same way as what happened in 1992.

Various Indian political leaders hailed the ground-breaking ceremony.

While some openly celebrated it, others worded their statements carefully. 

Many expressed hope in furthering the country’s progress by following the ideals of Ram.

Soon after the ground-breaking ceremony, residents of Ayodhya expressed hope in improvements of job opportunities and development of the city, through tourism generated by the temple.

In August 2021, a viewing location was created for the public to watch the construction. 

Following the ground-breaking ceremony, up to 40 feet of debris were removed and the remaining earth compacted. 

The foundation was made using roller-compacted concrete.

A total of 48 layers, each layer one feet high, was completed by mid-September 2021.

Due to electricity supply issues in Mirzapur, the process for cutting sandstones was slowed down.

Above: Mirzapur

At the beginning of 2022, a video was released by the temple trust showing the planned construction of the temple in 3D along with other related information.

All should be accomplished by the end of August 2023.

The temple trust decided to launch a nationwide “mass contact and contribution campaign“.

Voluntary donations of 10 rupees (13¢ US) and higher will be accepted.

Above: Indian rupee banknotes

On 15 January 2021, the then-President of India Ram Nath Kovind made the first contribution towards the construction of the Ram Mandir by donating 501,000 rupees (US$6,300).

This was followed by several leaders and eminent personalities across the nation.

By April 2021, around 5,000 crore (1 crore = 10 million) (US$630 million) was collected as donations from across the country. 

Nearly 1.50 lakh (1 lakh = 100,000) Vishwa Hindu Parishad activists collected funds from all across the nation.

The temple trust not only received donations from Hindu devotees but also from several members of Christian and Muslim communities.

Above: Former Indian President Ram Nath Kovind (r. 2017 – 2022)

A few individuals including former Karnataka Chief Ministers H.D. Kumaraswamy and Siddaramaiah strongly questioned the manner of collection of funds.

Above: Former Chief Minister of Karnataka Haradanahalli Deve Gowda Kumaraswamy (r. 2006 – 2007 / 2018 – 2019)

Above: Former Chief Minister of Karnataka Siddaramaiah (r. 2013 – 2018)

Following the inability to collect funds, a Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS)-affiliated school saw bullying.

Above: Saffron flag of the RSS, an Indian right-wing Hindu nationalist paramilitary voluntary organization

Following allegations of corruption, Tata Consultancy Services was roped in to digitize the accounts.

Mandir wahi banayenge is an expression in Hindi, translating as “the temple will be built there“.

It is one of the most popular slogans in relation to the Ram Janmabhoomi movement and Ram Mandir used as early as 1985, popularized in the 1990s, and has a number of variations. 

The slogan has been used in both positive and negative connotations.

It has been a symbol of hope and it has become a part of festivities on one hand, while on the other it has become a part of standup comedy, jokes and memes.

In 2019, the slogan was used in the Parliament of India, and has also been used by media houses. 

The slogan has been used as a threat as well as a vow.

Above: Mandir wahi banayenge slogan (Nagari script)

Before we become too critical of the Hindu conversion of a Muslim mosque (or the prior conversion of a non-Muslim temple into a mosque), we must concede that conversion of a holy site from one faith to another is not a new phenomenon.

The conversion of mosques into non-Islamic places of worship has occurred for centuries.

The most prominent examples of such took place after and during the Reconquista of the Iberian Peninsula when mosques became Christian churches, as seen in Cordoba, Toledo, Sevilla, Jerez, Zargoza, Árchez, and Ronda.

Above: Mosque Cathedral, Córdoba, Spain

Above: San Sebastián, Toledo, Spain

Above: Cathedral, Sevilla, Spain

Above: Alcázar de Jerez de la Frontera, España (Spain)

Above: La Aljafería Palace, Zaragoza, Spain

Above: Alminar, Árchez, Spain

Above: San Sebástian, Ronda, Spain

Mosques into churches has also occurred in Hungary, Bulgaria, Greece and Romania.

Above: Flag of Hungary

Above: Flag of Bulgaria

Above: Flag of Greece

Above: Flag of Romania

Former mosques with identified original buildings have been converted into Hindu temples in Ayodhya, Sonipat, Farrukhnagar, Aurangabad and Hisar cities in India.

Above: Ram Leela Mandir, Farrukhnagar, India

Former mosques with identified original buildings have been converted into Sikh gurdwaras in Meham, Amritsar, Haryana and Patipat in India and in Lahore, Pakistan.

Above: Gurdwara Shaheed Bhai Taru Singh, Lahore, Pakistan

Former mosques with identified original buildings have been converted into Jewish synagogues in the Israeli communities of Nes Ziona, Azur and Tel Aviv.

Above: Geulat Israel Synagogue, Nes Ziona, Israel

Lest we believe that Muslims are innocent of converting non-Islamic structures into mosques, this has occurred to Hindu temples, Jain temples, Christian churches, Jewish synagogues, and Zoroastrian fire temples in Mecca and Jerusalem, as well as in India, Iran, Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Turkey, Cyprus, France, Greece, the Crimea, Hungary, Lebanon, Morocco, Spain, Syria, Algeria, Libya, Iraq and Israel.

Above: Adhai Din-ka-Jhonpra Mosque, Ajmer, Rajasthan, India (former Hindu temple)

Above: Jama Masjid, Delhi, India (former Jain temple)

Above: Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey (former Christian church)

Above: Masjid Darul Ehsan, Suffern, New York (former Jewish synagogue)

Above: Tarikhaneh Mosque, Damghan, Iran (former Zoroastrian fire temple)

Above: Images of Mecca, Saudi Arabia

Above: Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem, Israel

Above: Flag of Iran

Above: Flag of Albania

Above: Flag of Bosnia and Herzegovina

Above: Flag of Turkey

Above: Flag of Cyprus

Above: Flag of North Cyprus

Above: Flag of France

Above: Russian-controlled, formerly Ukranian, Crimea (in green)

Above: Flag of Lebanon

Above: Flag of Morocco

Above: Flag of Spain

Above: Flag of Syria

Above: Flag of Algeria

Above: Flag of Libya

Above: Flag of Iraq

Above: Flag of Israel

Destroyed heritage sites abound around the world, done either for religious or political reasons, or simply done with malicious intent.

Above: Engraving of the Buddhas, Bamiyan, Afghanistan – destroyed by the Taliban, March 2001

Why do I mention all of this to you, gentle reader, who may know nothing of other religions save (or perhaps even) your own?

I do so, partly to help you understand my compulsion to travel and partly to help you see a world beyond your own comfortable surroundings.

For many folks, travelling still means seeing if you can eat your own weight and still snorkel when you get into port.

I do not condemn this, for we all work hard for our leisure and I will not criticize anyone for what they choose to do with their free time as long as the activities are not harmful to themselves or others.

Simply put, for many, travelling is simply an exercise in hedonism.

And this hedonism accentuates the differences between Us and Them.

I believe that travel should bring humanity together, that travel should be thoughtful and challenging and broaden the mind, rather than thoughtlessly and effortlessly broadening the waistline.

Certainly I know the comforts of a good hotel, the desire to avoid long lines, the delight of sampling local delicacies, and the importance of catching a connection on time.

But travelling could be so much more.

We could travel to have enlightening experiences, to meet inspirational people, to be stimulated (sensory and intellectually), to learn, to grow.

Sometimes we need to rearrange the furniture within our minds, to challenge our ethnocentric self-assuredness.

Sometimes we need to be humbled by an awareness of our own ignorance as we witness the birth of other kinds of wisdom ne’er before dreamt of in our philosophies.

Oh, to better myself by watching others!

Oh, to learn about my society by observing other societies!

Oh, to challenge oneself to be broad-minded when it comes to international issues!

Oh, to make my little corner of the world a better place by learning from my travels and bringing those ideas home!

Thoughtful travel means powerful lessons.

From my own limited point-of-view, the desecration of one’s holy place to be converted into someone else’s divine sanctuary seems inherently wrong to me.

But should I condemn Hindus for razing a mosque and replacing it with a temple or should I feel Schadenfreude that they restore a temple that had been razed to be replaced by a mosque?

History and world politics is replete with the cries of “We were here first!

Speak to Palestine for an example of this.

Above: Flag of Palestine

As religions go I find myself prone to practice a kind of ignorant willful barbarianism.

Once upon a time a man climbed to the top of a mountain and, standing on tiptoe, seized hold of the Truth.

Satan, suspecting mischief from this upstart, directed one of his underlings to follow him.

When the demon reported with alarm the man’s success – that he had seized hold of the Truth – Satan was unperturbed.

Don’t worry.“, he yawned.

I will tempt him to institutionalize it.

Above: A man dressed as the Devil at New York City’s West Indian Day Parade, 7 September 2009

There is so much ambiguity in religion that the empowering theological and metaphysical truths behind them fail to inspire me.

Constituted as they are of people with their inbuilt frailties, institutions are built of their vices as well as their virtues.

Sometimes I think that religion’s best mistake was to ever get involved with people.

But to be aloof from people would mean that faith’s impact and traction on history would never have borne the benefits of philosophy and morality that make our continued civilizations possible.

I look at religion not so much for its assurance of a reality beyond my own, an existence beyond my years, but rather I seek to sift from them the truths that religious institutions preserve and which in turn empower those institutions.

When religions are sifted for truths, they become the world’s wise traditions.

Where is the knowledge that is lost in information?

Where is the wisdom that is lost in knowledge?

(T.S. Eliot)

Above: Thomas Stearns Eliot (1888 – 1965)

By looking at different religions I do not seek to compare them in a quest to compare their worth.

I do not seek to say that one religion is superior to another.

In fact, it has been this insistence that Ours is better than Theirs wherein lies much of the sorrow and carnage that has been visited upon this planet.

Above: Symbols representing various religions: Christianity, Islam, Hinduism, Buddhism, Judaism, Baha’ism, Eckankar, Sikhism, Jainism, Wicca, Unitarian Universalism, Shinto, Taoism, Thelema, Tenrikyo, Zoroastrianism

There is no one alive today who knows enough to say with confidence whether one religion has been greater than all others.

(Arnold Toynbee)

Above: English historian / philosopher Arnold J. Toynbee (1899 – 1975)

I travel and write about my travels (and the travels of others) (past and planned) because I seek to embrace the world, in spite of all my limitations.

I cannot claim to understand the Muslim mind, the Hindu heart, the Buddhist beliefs, the clarity of Confucianism, the truths of Taoism, the joys of Judaism, the hopes of Christianity nor even the essence of primal religions, but this does not mean that a glimpse into these might not garner wisdom inherent to all humanity.

I want to visit Ayodhya, not to celebrate the triumph of one faith’s temple on the ruins of another, but to try and understand why Ayodhya is so significant to so many people.

Above: Kanak Bhavan Temple, Ayodhya

I have been given the tiniest of glimpses into Hinduism through my connection with my Indian friend Sumit and his family now based in the greater Metropolitan Toronto area.

Above: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

At first glance, Hinduism seems quite alien to me having being raised as by an Anglophone Baptist foster mother and a French Catholic foster father in the Canadian province of Québec.

Above: Flag of the Canadian province of Québec

To take Hinduism as a whole – its vast literature, its complicated rituals, its sprawling folkways, its opulent art – is to find this Western man afloat in an ocean he cannot comprehend.

So, perhaps it is through a Western perspective we must first consider what all of this means.

Above: A puja Hindu ceremony, Besakih Temple, Bali, Indonesia

Los Alamos, New Mexico, Monday 16 July 1945

Above: Aerial view of Los Alamos, New Mexico

In the deep privacy of the desert, an event occurred that may prove to be the single most important happening in the 20th century.

A chain reaction of scientific discoveries that began at the University of Chicago and centred at Site Y at Los Alamos was culminated.

Above: Logo of the University of Chicago

The first atomic bomb was a success.

Above: Famous color photograph of the “Trinity” shot, the first nuclear test explosion, 16 July 1945

No one had been more instrumental in this achievement than Robert Oppenheimer, director of the Los Alamos project.

Above: Robert Oppenheimer (1904 – 1967)

An observer who was watching him closely has given us the following account:

He grew tenser as the last seconds ticked off. He scarcely breathed.

He held on to a post to steady himself.

When the announcer said “Now!”, there came this tremendous burst of light, followed by the deep-growling roar of the explosion, his face relaxed in an expression of tremendous relief.

This much from the outside.

But what flashed through Oppenheimer’s own mind during those moments, he recalled later, were two lines from the Bhagavad-Gita in which the speaker is God (Vishnu):

I am become death, the shatterer of worlds, waiting that hour that ripens to their doom.

This is one side of the Hindu faith.

Above: Illustration from the Bhagavad-Gita

Above: Vishnu bearing his four attributes

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 21 August 2022

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Turkey

Mahatma Gandhi lived in an age in which violence and peace faced each other more fatefully than ever before.

Above: Mahatma Gandhi (1869 – 1948)

His name became, in the middle of the 20th century, the counterpoise to those of Stalin and Hitler.

Above: Joseph Stalin (1878 – 1953)

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

The achievement for which the world credited this man (who weighed less than 100 pounds and whose worldly possessions when he died were worth less than $2) was the British withdrawal from India in peace.

What is less known is that among his own people he lowered a barrier more formidable than that of race in America.

He renamed India’s untouchables harijan (“God’s people“) and raised them to human stature.

Above: Dharavi is a slum in Mumbai, founded in the 1880s during the British Raj (1858 – 1947).
The colonial government expelled Dalits, along with their traditional profession of leather and tannery work, from Mumbai (Bombay) peninsula to create Dharavi.
Currently, about 20% of the Dharavi population are Dalits, compared to 16% nationwide.
Dalits live together with Muslims (who constitute about a third of Dharavi’s population) and other castes and tribes.

In doing so he provided the nonviolent strategy as well as the inspiration for Martin Luther King, Jr.’s comparable civil rights movement in the United States.

Above: Martin Luther King, Jr. (1929 – 1968)

Gandhi’s own inspiration and strategy came from his faith:

Such power as I possess for working in the political field has derived from my experiments in the spiritual field.

Truth is the sovereign principle and the Bhagavad-Gita is the book par excellence for the knowledge of Truth.

Above: Mahatma Gandhi Monument, Madrid, Spain

Hinduism is variously defined as an Indian religion, a set of religious beliefs or practices, a religious tradition, a way of life, or dharma — a religious and universal order by which followers abide.

Above: Om, a stylized letter of Devanagari script, used as a religious symbol in Hinduism

As a religion it is the world’s 3rd largest, with over 1.2 billion followers, or 16% of the global population, known as Hindus.

Above: Countries by percentage of Hindus

Hinduism is the most widely professed faith in India, Nepal and Mauritius.

Above: Flag of Nepal

Above: Flag of Mauritius

Significant numbers of Hindu communities are found in Southeast Asia (including in Bali, Indonesia), the Caribbean, North America, Europe, Oceania, Africa and other regions.

Hinduism has been called the oldest religion in the world, which refers to the idea that its origins lie beyond human history, as revealed in the Hindu texts.

Hinduism is a diverse system of thought marked by a range of philosophies and shared concepts, rituals, cosmological systems, pilgrimage sites, and shared textual sources that discuss theology, metaphysics, mythology, Vedic yajna (mantras said in front of a sacred fire), yoga, agamic (Hindu literature and scriptures) rituals, and temple building, among other topics.

Above: Upper seven lokas of Hindu cosmography

Above: Lower seven lokas of Hindu cosmology

Above: Hindu mythology – The Trimurti (Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva) seated on lotuses with their consorts, the Tridevi (Saraswati, Lakshmi and Parvati)

Above: Vishnu Yagna Kunda in Yagashala, as part of Mahakumbhabhishekam of Gunjanarasimhaswamy Temple

Above: Statue of Shiva meditating in the lotus yoga position

Above: Developing physical and mental discipline with yoga is one of four recommendations in Agama texts. Depicted – a Yoga posture statue from Kashmir, a center of monistic Agama texts

Above: Kandariya Mahadeva Temple, Khajuraho, India

It is from this point that Wikipedia classification gets…..

Complicated.

Above: Logo of Wikipedia

If we were to take Hinduism as a whole, we would find it saying:

You can have what you want.

This sounds promising, but it throws the problem back at us:

What do we want?

India has lived with this question for millennia and her answer is that people want four things:

Above: Ganesha is one of the best-known and most worshipped deities in the Hindu pantheon.

They begin by wanting pleasure (Kama).

This is natural.

We are all born with built-in pleasure-pain reactors.

To the person who wants pleasure, India says:

Go after it – there is nothing wrong with it.

The world is awash with beauty and heavy with sensual delights.

Like everything else, hedonism requires good sense.

Not every impulse can be followed with impunity.

Small immediate goals must be sacrificed for long-range gains.

Impulses that would injure others must be curbed to avoid antagonisms and remorse.

Only the stupid will lie, steal or cheat for immediate profit.

Only the stupid will succumb to addictions.

But as long as the basic rules of morality are obeyed, you are free to seek pleasure you want.

Far from condemning pleasure, Hindu texts give pointers on how to enlarge its scope.

To simple people who seek pleasure almost exclusively, Hinduism presents itself as little more than a regimen for ensuring health and prosperity.

While, at the other end of the spectrum, for sophisticates, it elaborates a sensual aesthetic that shocks in its explicitness.

(Think Kama Sutra as an example of this.)

Hinduism suggests that if pleasure is what you want, do not suppress the desire.

Seek it intelligently.

Above: Kama-related arts are common in Hindu temples.
These scenes include courtship, amorous couples in scenes of intimacy (mithuna), or a sexual position. Depicted: 6th to 14th century temples in Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, Gujarat, Karnataka, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and Nepal.

This India says.

India waits.

It waits for the time when a person realizes that pleasure is not all that one wants, because pleasure is too trivial to satisfy one’s total nature.

Pleasure is essentially private.

The self is too small an object for perpetual enthusiasm.

Above: The Hindu Trinity – Brahma, Siva, Vishnu – Hoysaleswara Temple, Halebidu, India

In the bottomless ocean of pleasure I have sounded in vain for a spot to cast anchor.

I have felt the almost irresistible power with which one pleasure drags another after it, the kind of adulterated enthusiasm which it is capable of producing, the boredom, the torment which follows.

The glamour of yesterday I have come to see as tinsel.

(Søren Kierkegaard, Journal)

Above: Søren Kierkegaard (1813 – 1855)

Sooner or later you may want to experience more than a kaleidoscope of momentary pleasures, however delectable.

When this time comes an individual’s interests can shift to the second major goal of life:

Worldly success (Artha), with its three prongs of wealth, fame and power.

Success’ satisfactions last longer, for, unlike pleasure, success is a social achievement and, as such, it involves the lives of others.

For this reason, success commands a scope and importance that pleasure cannot boast.

Visitors from abroad do not find North Americans or Europeans enjoying life a great deal or much bent on doing so, for they are too busy.

Being enamored not with sensualism but with success, what takes arguing in the West is not that achievement’s rewards exceed those of the senses, but that success too has its limitations.

What is a man worth?” does not come down to “How much has he got?“.

Drives for power, position and possessions run deep, so they should not be disparaged per se.

A modicum of worldly success is indispensable for supporting a household and discharging duties responsibly.

Beyond this minimum, worldly achievements confer dignity and self-respect.

However, these too have their term, for they all harbour limitations:

Above: Statue of Shiva, Murudeshwar, India

  • Wealth, fame and power are exclusive, hence competitive, hence precarious.

Unlike mental and spiritual values, they do not multiply when shared.

They cannot be distributed without diminishing one’s portion.

Above: Illustration of Durga

  • The drive for success is insatiable, for people who make these things their chief ambition their lusts cannot be satisfied.

To try to extinguish the drive for riches with money is like trying to quench a fire by pouring gasoline upon it.

Success is a goal without a satiation point.

Above: Illustration of Lakshmi

Poverty consists not in the decrease of one’s possessions but in the increase of one’s need.

(Plato)

Above: Plato (428 – 348 BCE), Raphael’s The School of Athens

Could you from all the world all wealth procure, more would remain whose lack would leave you poor.

(Gregory Nazianzen)

Above: Gregory Nazianzen (329 – 390)

  • Success centres meaning in the self.

Neither fortune nor station can obscure the realization that one lacks so much else.

In the end everyone wants more from life.

Above: Illustration of Vishnu

  • Success’ achievements are ephemeral.

Wealth, fame and power do not survive bodily death.

You can’t take it with you.

Since we can’t, this keeps these things from satisfying us wholly, for we are creatures who can envision eternity and must instinctively rue by contrast the brief purchase on time that worldly success commands.

Above: Hindu god Vishnu (centre) surrounded by his ten major avatars: Matsya, Kurma, Varaha, Narasimha, Vamana, Parashurama, Rama, Krishna, Buddha and Kalki

The personal desires of the individual have thus so far been foremost in charting life’s course.

Other goals lie ahead, but this does not mean that we should berate these preliminaries, for nothing is gained by repressing desires wholesale or pretending that we do not have them.

As long as pleasure and success is what we think we want, we should seek them, remembering only the provisos of prudence and fair play.

The guiding principle is not to turn from desire until desire turns from you.

The prospect of adults who fail to develop interests more significant is sad.

Individuals whose development is not arrested will move through delighting in success and the senses to the point where their attractions have been outgrown.

Where the suspicion arises that life holds more than one is now experiencing.

Here we find the back-to-nature people who, disillusioned, renounce affluence to gain freedom from social rounds and the glut of things.

But this is only the beginning.

Above: Ardhanarishvara, showing both feminine and masculine aspects of this Hindu god

If renunciation always entails the sacrifice of a trivial Now for a more promising Yet-to-be, religious renunciation is akin to that of athletes who resist indulgences that could deflect them from their all-consuming goal.

The exact opposite of disillusionment, renunciation is evidence that the life force is strongly at work.

Hinduism does not say that everyone will find the path of desire wanting, but it draws a distinction between chronological and psychological age.

Neither the pursuit nor the attainment of the world’s visible rewards brings true happiness, for each attainment fans the flames of new desire.

None satisfies fully.

All perish with time.

Above: Ganesha with Shiva, Devi (Parvati), Vishnu and Surya

Eventually, there comes the suspicion that they are caught on a treadmill, having to run faster and faster for rewards that mean less and less.

When that suspicion dawns and they find themselves crying “Vanity, vanity, all is vanity!“, it may occur to them that the problem stems from the smallness of the self they have been scrambling to serve.

What if the focus of their concern were shifted?

Might not becoming a part of a larger, more significant whole relieve life of its triviality?

True religion begins with the quest for meaning and value beyond self-centredness.

The community is greater than ourselves.

In supporting at once our own life and the lives of others, the community has an importance no single life can command.

The transfer from self to community makes the first great step in religion:

It produces the third great aim of life in the Hindu outlook:

Duty (Dharma).

Above: The great Prambanian Hindu temple complex built in the 9th century, Java, Indonesia

Duty’s power over the mature is tremendous.

Myriads of men have transformed the will-to-get into the will-to-give, the will-to-win into the will-to-serve.

Not to triumph, but to do one’s best – to acquit oneself responsibly, whatever the task at hand – has become the prime objective.

Hinduism abounds in directives to people who would put their shoulders to the social wheel.

It details duties appropriate to age, temperament and social status.

Above: A wedding is the most extensive personal ritual an adult Hindu undertakes in his or her life.
A typical Hindu wedding is solemnized before by a Vedic fire ritual.

Duty too yields notable rewards, only to leave the human spirit unfilled.

Duty’s rewards require maturity to be appreciated, but given maturity, they are substantial.

Faithful performance of duty brings respect and gratitude from one’s peers.

More important, however, is the self-respect that comes from doing one’s best.

But in the end even these rewards prove insufficient.

For even when time turns community into history, history is finite and hence ultimately tragic.

It is tragic not only because it must end, but in its refusal to be perfected.

Hope and history are always light years apart.

The final human good must be elsewhere.

Above: A home shrine with offerings at a regional Vishu festival

There comes a time when one asks even of Shakespeare, even of Beethoven, is this all?

(Aldous Huxley)

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

Above: Ludwig van Beethoven (1770 – 1827)

Above: English writer Aldous Huxley (1894 – 1963)

There is no true good here below, that everything that appears to be good in this world is finite, limited, wears out and once worn out, leaves necessity exposed in all its nakedness.

(Simone Weil)

Above: French philosopher Simone Weil (1909 – 1943)

When this point is reached, the point where one finds oneself asking even of the best this world has to offer:

Is this all?

This is the moment Hinduism has been waiting for.

As long as people are content with the prospect of pleasure, success or service, the Hindu sage will not be likely to disturb them beyond offering some suggestions as how to proceed more effectively.

The critical point in life comes when these things lose their original charm and one finds oneself wishing that life had something more to offer.

The Hindu answer is unequivocal.

Life holds other possibilities.

Pleasure, success and duty are never humanity’s ultimate goals.

At best they are means that we assume will take us in the direction of what we really want.

What we really want are things that lie at a deeper level.

Above: Hindu priest

First, we want being.

Everyone wants to be rather than not be.

No one wants to die.

There is a profound reluctance to give up the future.

Above: The festival of lights, Diwali, is celebrated by Hindus all over the world.

Second, we want to know.

Whether it be scientists probing the secrets of nature, a typical family watching the nightly news, or neighbours catching up on local gossip, we are insatiably curious.

Above: Hindus in Ghana celebrating Ganesh Chaturti

Third, people seek joy, a feeling that is the opposite of frustration, futility and boredom.

Above: 2013 Festival of Colors, Sri Radha Krishna Temple Spanish Fork, Utah

These are what people really want.

They want these things indefinitely.

A distinctive feature of human nature is its capacity to think of something that has no limits.

The infinite.

Mention any good and we can imagine more of it.

Medical science has doubled life expectancy, but has living twice as long made life worth living or made us readier to die?

People want infinite being, infinite knowledge and infinite bliss.

The fourth aim in Hinduism is liberation (Moksha) – release from the finite that restricts us from the limitless being, consciousness and bliss our hearts desire.

What is a human being?

A body?

Certainly.

But anything else?

Some say no.

If we really are infinite in our being, why is this not apparent?

Why do we not act accordingly?

The answer, say the Hindus, lies in the depth at which the Eternal is buried under the almost impenetrable mass of distractions, false assumptions and self-regarding instincts that comprise our surface selves.

A lamp can be covered by dust and dirt to the point of obscuring its light completely.

The problem life poses for the human self is to cleanse the dross of its being to the point where its infinite centre can shine forth in full display.

Above: Kedar Ghat, a bathing place for pilgrims on the Ganges at Varanasi, India

The aim of life is to get as far as possible from imperfection.

(Justice Holmes)

Above: Oliver Wendell Holmes, Jr. (1841 – 1935)

Hinduism says to pass beyond.

If we were to set out to compile a catalogue of the specific imperfections that hedge our lives, it would have no end.

We lack strength and imagination to effect our dreams.

We grow tired, fall ill, and are foolish.

We fail and become discouraged.

We grow old and die.

All these limitations reduce to three basic variants:

We are limited in joy, knowledge and being.

Hinduism asks:

Is it possible to pass beyond the structures that separate us from these things?

Is it feasible to seek to rise to a quality of life that, because less circumscribed, would be life indeed?

Above: Four-armed Vishnu, Pandya Dynasty, 8th century

According to Hinduism, the structures on our joy fall into three subgroups:

  • Physical pain
  • Frustration that arises from the thwarting of desire
  • Boredom with life in general

Above: Priests performing Kalyanam (marriage) of the holy deities at Bhadrachalam Temple in Telangana It is one of the temples in India, where Kalyanam is done everyday throughout the year.

Physical pain’s intensity is partly due to the fear that accompanies it.

The conquest of fear can reduce pain.

Pain can also be accepted if we believe it has a purpose.

Above: Basic Hindu symbols

More serious is the psychological pain that arises from the thwarting of specific desires.

Life is so filled with disappointments that we are likely to assume that they are built into the human condition.

On examination, however, there proves to be something all disappointments share in common:

Each thwarts an expectation of the individual ego.

If the ego were to have no expectations, there would be nothing to disappoint.

What it the interests of the self were expanded to the point of approximating a God’s-eye view of humanity?

Seeing all things under the aspect of eternity would make one objective towards oneself, accepting failure on a par with success in the stupendous human drama of yes and no, positive and negative, push and pull.

How could one feel disappointed at one’s defeat if one experienced the victor’s joy as also one’s own?

We should content ourselves with noting how different this would feel from life as it is usually lived.

Above: Gosala, Guntar, India

When detachment from the finite self or attachment occurs, life is lifted above the possibility of frustration and above ennui, for the cosmic drama is too spectacular to permit boredom in the face of such vivid identification.

Above: Vadakkunnathan Temple

The second great limitation of human life is ignorance, the lack of an insight that lays beyond the point of everything.

Psychologists liken the mind to an iceberg, most of which is invisible.

What does the mind contain?

Some think it contains every memory and experience that has come its way, nothing being forgotten by the deep mind that never sleeps.

Others, like Carl Jung, think it includes memories that summarize the experience of the entire human species.

Psychoanalysis aims a few pinpoints of light at this mental darkness.

Who is to say how far the darkness can be dispelled?

Above: Carl Jung (1875 – 1961)

As for life’s third limitation, its restricted being, Hinduism suggests that we first have to ask how the boundary of the self is to be defined.

Not, certainly, by the amount of physical space our bodies occupy, the amount of water we displace in the bathtub.

It makes more sense to gauge our being by the size of our spirits, the range of reality with which we identify.

A man who identifies with his family, finding his joy in them, would have that much reality.

A woman who could identify with humankind would be that much greater.

By this criterion, people who could identify with being as a whole would be unlimited.

Above: Sri Natarajar Temple, Chidambaram

Yet this seems hardly right, for they would still die, for even as the object of their concerns would continue, they themselves would be gone.

Hinduism suggests that we need, therefore, to approach this question of being not only spatially, so to speak, but also in terms of time.

Our everyday experience provides a wedge for doing so.

Above: Kolka Temple

Strictly speaking, every moment of our lives is a dying.

The I of a moment dies, never to be reborn.

Yet despite the fact that in this sense life consists of nothing but funerals, we do not conceive of ourselves as dying each moment, we do not equate ourselves with our individual moments.

We endure through them – experiencing them, without being identical with any of them in their singularities.

Hinduism carries this a notion a step further.

Above: Besakih Temple, Bali, Indonesia

Hinduism posits an extensive self that lives successive lives in the way a single life lives successive moments.

A child’s heart is broken by misfortunes we consider trivial, as it identifies completely with each incident, being unable to see the moment against the backdrop of a whole, variable lifetime.

A lot of living is required before the child can withdraw its self-identification from the individual moment and approach, thereby, adulthood.

Compared with children we are mature, but according to Hinduism we are children nonetheless as we are no more capable of seeing our total selves in perspective than a three-year-old who has dropped its ice cream cone, because our attention is fixated on our present lifespan.

If we were truly mature we would see that lifespan in a larger setting, one that is actually unending.

Samsara: the cycle of death and rebirth.

Above: Akshardham Temple, New Delhi, India

This is the basic point in the Hindu estimate of the human condition.

Psychology has accustomed us to the fact that there is more to ourselves than we suspect.

Like the 18th century European view of the Earth, our minds have their own darkest Africas, their unmapped Borneos, their Amazonian basins.

Above: Africa (in green)

Above: Borneo, Indonesia

Above: Amazon River basin

Their bulk continues to await exploration.

Hinduism sees the mind’s hidden continents as stretching to infinity.

Infinite in being, infinite in awareness, there is nothing beyond them that remains unknown.

Infinite in joy, too, for there is nothing alien to them to mar their beatitude.

Above: Pashupatinath Temple, Nepal

Hindu literature is studded with metaphors and parables designed to awaken us to the realms of gold that are hidden in the depths of our being.

We are like kings who, falling victim to amnesia, wander our kingdoms in tatters not knowing who we really are.

We are like a lion cub who, having become separated from its mother, is raised by sheep and takes to grazing and bleating on the assumption it is a sheep as well.

We are like a lover who, in his dream, searches the wide world in despair for his beloved, oblivious of the fact that she is lying by his side throughout.

What the realization of our total being is like can no more be described than can a sunset to one born blind.

It must be experienced.

All of us dwell on the brink of the infinite ocean of life’s creative power.

We carry this within us: supreme strength, the fullness of wisdom, unquenchable joy.

It is never thwarted and cannot be destroyed.

But it is hidden.

Deep.

Which is what makes life a problem.

The infinite is down in the darkest profoundest vault of our being, in the forgotten well house, the deep cistern.

What if we could bring it to light and draw from it increasingly?

This question became India’s obsession.

Her people sought religious truth, not simply to increase their store of general information, they sought it as a chart to guide them to higher states of being.

Religious people sought to transform their natures, reshape them to a superhuman pattern through which the infinite could shine with fewer obstructions.

Just as a man carrying on his head a load of wood that has caught fire would go rushing to a pond to quench the flames, even so will the seeker of truth, scorched by the fires of life – birth, death, self-deluding futility – go rushing to a teacher wise to the ways of the things that matter most.

Above: Iraivan Temple, Kauai Island, Hawaii

How to come to God and remain in touch, how to become divine while still on Earth?

The spiritual trials that Hindus have blazed toward this goal are four:

At first this may seem surprising:

If there is one goal, should there not be only one path to it?

This might be the case if we were all starting from the same place.

As it is, people approach the goal from different directions, so there must be multiple trails to the common destination.

Where one starts from depends on who they are, the kind of person one is.

Karma: action, intent and consequences.

Above: A sadhu performing namaste in Madurai, India

The aim of spiritual directors should not be to guide souls by a way suitable to themselves, but to ascertain the way by which God Himself is pointing them.

(St. John of the Cross, The Living Flame)

Above: St. John of the Cross (né Juan de Yepes y Álvarez) (1542 – 1591)

There is also a strong Hindu tradition of questioning authority in order to deepen the understanding of these truths and to further develop the tradition.

Hinduism includes a diversity of ideas on spirituality and traditions, but has no ecclesiastical order, no unquestionable religious authorities, no governing body, no prophet(s) nor any binding holy book.

Ideas about all the major issues of faith and lifestyle – vegetarianism, nonviolence, belief in rebirth, even caste – are subjects of debate, not dogma.

Because of the wide range of traditions and ideas covered by the term Hinduism, arriving at a comprehensive definition is difficult.

The religion defies our desire to define and categorize it. 

Hinduism has been variously defined as a religion, a religious tradition, a set of religious beliefs, and a way of life.

From a Western lexical standpoint, Hinduism like other faiths is appropriately referred to as a religion.

In India, the term dharma is preferred, which is broader than the Western term religion.

The study of India and its cultures and religions, and the definition of “Hinduism“, has been shaped by the interests of colonialism and by Western notions of religion. 

Since the 1990s, those influences and its outcomes have been the topic of debate among scholars of Hinduism, and have also been taken over by critics of the Western view on India.

Above: Mahabalipuram Temple

To its adherents, Hinduism is a traditional way of life.

Many practitioners refer to the “orthodox” form of Hinduism as Sanatana Dharma, “the eternal law” or the “eternal way“.

Hindus regard Hinduism to be thousands of years old.

The Puranic chronology (the timeline of events in ancient Indian history as narrated in the Mahabaratha, the Ramayana, and the Puranas) envisions a chronology of events related to Hinduism starting well before 3000 BCE.

The Sanskrit word dharma has a much broader meaning than religion and is not its equivalent.

All aspects of a Hindu life, namely acquiring wealth (artha), fulfillment of desires (kama), and attaining liberation (moksha), are part of dharma, which encapsulates the “right way of living” and eternal harmonious principles in their fulfillment.

Above: Rangoli, decorations made from colored powder, is popular during Diwali

According to the editors of the Encyclopædia BritannicaSanātana Dharma historically referred to the “eternal” duties religiously ordained in Hinduism, duties such as honesty, refraining from injuring living beings (ahimsa), purity, goodwill, mercy, patience, forbearance, self-restraint, generosity, and asceticism.

These duties applied regardless of a Hindu’s class, caste, or sect, and they contrasted with svadharma, (one’s “own duty“), in accordance with one’s class or caste (varṇa) and stage in life (purusartha). 

In recent years, the term has been used by Hindu leaders, reformers, and nationalists to refer to Hinduism.

Above: Logo of Encyclopaedia Britannica

Sanatana dharma has become a synonym for the “eternal” truth and teachings of Hinduism, that transcend history and are “unchanging, indivisible and ultimately nonsectarian“.

According to other scholars, Sanātana Dharma refers to “timeless, eternal set of truths” and this is how Hindus view the origins of their religion.

It is viewed as those eternal truths and tradition with origins beyond human history, truths divinely revealed (Shruti) in the Vedas – the most ancient of the world’s scriptures.

To many Hindus, the Western term “religion” to the extent it means “dogma and an institution traceable to a single founder” is inappropriate for their tradition.

Hinduism, to them, is a tradition that can be traced at least to the ancient Vedic era.

Above: Mahashiviratree festival

Beginning in the 19th century, Indian modernists reasserted Hinduism as a major asset of Indian civilisation, meanwhile “purifying” Hinduism from its Tantric elements and elevating the Vedic elements.

Western stereotypes were reversed, emphasizing the universal aspects, and introducing modern approaches of social problems. 

This approach had a great appeal, not only in India, but also in the West.

Major representatives of Hindu modernism are Ram Mohan Roy, Swami Vivekananda, Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan and Mahatma Gandhi.

Ram Mohan Roy is known as the father of the Hindu Renaissance.

He was a major influence on Swami Vivekananda (1863 – 1902), who was “a figure of great importance in the development of a modern Hindu self-understanding and in formulating the West’s view of Hinduism“.

Central to his philosophy is the idea that the divine exists in all beings, that all human beings can achieve union with this “innate divinity” and that seeing this divine as the essence of others will further love and social harmony.

Above: Rembrandt portrait of Raja Ram Mohan Roy (1772 – 1833)

According to Vivekananda, there is an essential unity to Hinduism, which underlies the diversity of its many forms.

Vivekananda’s vision of Hinduism “is one generally accepted by most English-speaking middle-class Hindus today“.

Above: Swami Vivekananda (1863 – 1902)

Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan sought to reconcile western rationalism with Hinduism, “presenting Hinduism as an essentially rationalistic and humanistic religious experience“.

Above: Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan (1888 – 1975)

This “global Hinduism” has a worldwide appeal, transcending national boundaries and “becoming a world religion alongside Christianity, Islam and Buddhism“, both for the Hindu diaspora communities and for westerners who are attracted to non-western cultures and religions. 

It emphasizes universal spiritual values such as social justice, peace and “the spiritual transformation of humanity“.

It has developed partly due to “re-enculturation“, or the pizza effect, in which elements of Hindu culture have been exported to the West, gaining popularity there, and as a consequence also gained greater popularity in India.

This globalization of Hindu culture brought “to the West teachings which have become an important cultural force in western societies, and which in turn have become an important cultural force in India, their place of origin“.

Above: Navratri Navaratri festival preparations and performance

Hinduism is a diverse system of thought with a wide variety of beliefs.

Its concept of God is complex and depends upon each individual and the tradition and philosophy followed.

Hindus can choose to be polytheistic (a belief in multiple deities), pantheistic (reality is divinity), panentheistic (the divine intersects every part of the Universe and extends beyond space and time), pandeistic (a creator made the Universe and ceased to separate from it), henotheistic (involving devotion to a single god while accepting the existence of others), monotheistic (there is only one God), monistic (existence is everything), agnostic (God is unknowable), atheistic (there is no God) or humanist (focus on humanity not the divine).

One explanation I have heard from a Hindu is that God has different characteristics which Hinduism represents each of the characteristics as separate avatars – each “god” represents an aspect of God.

Above: Lalbaugh Ganesha, Mumbai

The Hindutva movement has extensively argued for the unity of Hinduism, dismissing the differences and regarding India as a Hindu country since ancient times. 

There are assumptions of political dominance of Hindu nationalism in India (Neo-Hindutva’).

There have also been increase in pre-dominance of Hindutva in Nepal, similar to that of India.

The scope of Hinduism is also increasing in the other parts of the world, due to the cultural influences such as yoga and the Hare Krishna movement by many missionary organizations.

This is also due to the migration of Indian Hindus to the other nations of the world. 

Hinduism is growing fast in many western nations and in some African states.

Above: One of Tompkins Square Park’s most prominent features is its collection of venerable American Elm (Ulmus americana) trees.
One elm in particular, located next to the semi-circular arrangement of benches in the park’s centre, is important to followers of the Hare Krishna movement.
It was beneath this tree, on 9 October 1966, that A.C. Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada, founder of the International Society for Krishna Consciousness, held the first recorded outdoor chanting session of the Hare Krishna mantra outside of the Indian subcontinent.
Participants in the ceremony included Beat poet Allen Ginsberg.
The event is seen as the founding of the Hare Krishna movement in the US.
The tree is treated by followers as a significant spiritual site.

Above: Abhay Charanaravinda Bhaktivedanta Swami (1896 – 1977)

Above: Allen Ginsberg (1926 – 1997)

Should this be a cause of concern to other religions?

Absolutely not.

If a religion is based on truth, its strength is unassailable.

I hold with Hinduism that each man’s path to salvation must be his own.

I neither affirm nor deny any man’s beliefs (or disbelief) in any faith as long as this faith does no harm to others and is practiced in healthy moderation and tolerance to those with differing ideas.

I am in no way, shape or form suggesting that a person become (or not become) a Hindu.

I am simply seeking to understand Hinduism’s attraction for its adherents.

Above: Mantras written on a rock near Namche Bazaar, Nepal

Where the construction of the Ram temple in Ayodhya concerns me is that the crux of the conflict between Hindu and Muslim in India revolves around an intolerance of the other and an insistence that one must needs be dominant over the other.

Above: Vijayraghav Mandir, Ayodhya

Hindu nationalism has been collectively referred to as the expression of social and political thought, based on the native spiritual and cultural traditions of the Indian subcontinent.

Hindu nationalism” (Hindū rāṣṭravāda) is a simplistic translation and it is better described with the term “Hindu polity“.

The native thought streams became highly relevant in Indian history when they helped form a distinctive identity in relation to the Indian polity and provided a basis for questioning colonialism.

These also provided inspiration to Indian nationalists during the independence movement based on armed struggle, coercive politics, and non-violent protests.

They also influenced social reform movements and economic thinking in India.

Hindutva (Hindu-ness) is the predominant form of Hindu nationalism in India.

Above: Indian subcontinent

As a political ideology, the term Hindutva was articulated by Vinayak Damodar Savarkar in 1923.

Savarkar was one of the first in the 20th century to attempt a definitive description of the term “Hindu” in terms of what he called Hindutva meaning Hindu-ness.

The coinage of the term “Hindutva” was an attempt by Savarkar who was non religious and a rationalist, to de-link it from any religious connotations that had become attached to it.

He defined the word Hindu as:

He who considers India as both his Fatherland and Holy Land“.

He thus defined Hindutva (“Hindu-ness“) or Hindu as different from Hinduism.

This definition kept the Abrahamic religions (Judaism, Christianity and Islam) outside its ambit and considered only native religious denominations as Hindu.

This distinction was emphasised on the basis of territorial loyalty rather than on religious practices.

In his book that was written in the backdrop of the Khilafat movement and the subsequent Malabar rebellion, Savarkar wrote:

Their [Muslims’ and Christians’] holy land is far off in Arabia or Palestine.

Their mythology and Godmen, ideas and heroes are not the children of this soil.

Consequently, their names and their outlook smack of foreign origin.

Their love is divided.”

Savarkar, also defined the concept of Hindu Rashtra (Hindu Polity).

The concept of Hindu Polity called for the protection of Hindu people and their culture and emphasised that political and economic systems should be based on native thought rather than on the concepts borrowed from the West.

Above: Vinayak Damodar Savakar (1883 – 1966)

The Hindutva movement has been described by its critics as a variant of “right-wing extremism” and as “almost fascist in the classical sense“, adhering to a concept of homogenised majority and cultural hegemony.

Some analysts dispute the “fascist” label, and suggest Hindutva is an extreme form of “conservatism” or “ethnic absolutism“. 

It is championed by the Hindu Nationalist volunteer organization Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS), the Vishva Hindu Parishad (VHP), the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) (the present ruling government) and other organizations in an ecosystem called the Sangh Parivar.

The official philosophy of the BJP is “integral humanism” a philosophy first formulated by Deendayal Upadhyaya in 1965, who described it as advocating an “indigenous economic model that puts the human being at centre stage“. 

It is committed to Hindutva.

According to the party, Hindutva is cultural nationalism favouring Indian culture over westernization, thus it extends to all Indians regardless of religion. 

However, scholars and political analysts have called their Hindutva ideology an attempt to redefine India and recast it as a Hindu country to the exclusion of other religions, making it a Hindu nationalist party in a general sense.

The BJP has slightly moderated its stance after the NDA was formed in 1998, due to the presence of parties with a broader set of ideologies.

Above: Deendayal Upadhyay (1916 – 1968)

Narendra Damodardas Modi is an Indian politician serving as the 14th and current Prime Minister of India since 2014.

Modi is the Member of Parliament (MP) from Varanasi.

Modi was the Chief Minister of Gujarat (like a Canadian Premier or US state governor) from 2001 to 2014 

He is a member of the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) and of the Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS), a right-wing Hindu nationalist paramilitary volunteer organization.

He is the first Prime Minister to have been born after India’s independence in 1947 and the second Prime Minister not belonging to the Indian National Congress party to have won two consecutive majorities in the Lok Sabha (the lower house of India’s Parliament).

He is also the longest serving Prime Minister from a non-Congress party.

Above: Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi

Modi’s administration has tried to raise foreign direct investment in the Indian economy and reduced spending on healthcare and social welfare programmes.

Modi has attempted to improve efficiency in the bureaucracy.

He has centralised power by abolishing the Planning Commission.

He began a high profile sanitation campaign, controversially initiated a de-monetization of high denomination banknotes and transformation of taxation regime, and weakened or abolished environmental and labour laws.

Under Modi’s tenure, India has experienced democratic backsliding.

Following his party’s victory in the 2019 General Election, his administration revoked the special status of Jammu and Kashmir, introduced the Citizenship Amendment Act and three controversial farm laws, which prompted widespread protests and sit-ins across the country, resulting in a formal repeal of the latter.

Above: Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi

(Article 370 of the Indian Constitution gave special status to Jammu and Kashmir — a state in India, located in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent and a part of the larger region of Kashmir, which has been the subject of dispute between India, Pakistan and China.

The Article conferred power on Jammu and Kashmir to have a separate constitution, a state flag and autonomy over the internal administration of the state.

The Constituent Assembly of Jammu and Kashmir, after its establishment, was empowered to recommend the articles of the Indian Constitution that should be applied to the state or to abrogate the Article 370 altogether.

After consultation with the state’s Constituent Assembly, the 1954 Presidential Order was issued, specifying the articles of the Indian Constitution that applied to the state.

The Constituent Assembly dissolved itself without recommending the abrogation of Article 370, the article was deemed to have become a permanent feature of the Indian Constitution.

This article, along with Article 35A, defined that the Jammu and Kashmir state’s residents live under a separate set of laws, including those related to citizenship, ownership of property, and fundamental rights, as compared to residents of other Indian states.

Above: State flag of Jammu and Kashmir (1954 – 2019)

Since the partition of India and Pakistan on religious lines, the Hindutva organizations in India have stated that Jammu and Kashmir is an integral, inseparable part of India.

As in past election manifestos, the Bharatiya Janata Party included the integration of Jammu and Kashmir among its campaign promises for the 2019 Indian General Election.

The BJP and its allies won a landslide majority in the Lok Sabha, the lower house of the Indian Parliament.

On 5 August 2019, India issued a Presidential order superseding the 1954 order that made all the provisions of the Indian constitution applicable to Jammu and Kashmir.

Following the resolutions passed in both houses of the Parliament, the President of India issued a further order on 6 August declaring all the clauses of Article 370 except clause 1 to be inoperative.

On 5 August 2019, the Parliament of India voted in favour of a resolution to revoke the temporary special status, or autonomy, granted under Article 370 of the Indian Constitution to Jammu and Kashmir — a region administered by India as a state which consists of the larger part of Kashmir which has been the subject of dispute among India, Pakistan, and China since 1947.

Above: Seal of Jammu and Kashmir

Among the Indian government actions accompanying the revocation was the cutting off of communication lines in the Kashmir Valley restored after five months.

Thousands of security forces were deployed to curb any uprising.

Several leading Kashmiri politicians were taken into custody, including the former Chief Minister.

Government officials described these restrictions as designed for preempting violence, and justified the revocation for enabling people of the state to access government programmes, such as reservation, the right to education and right to information.

Above: Pahalgam Valley, Kashmir

(Reservation is a system of affirmative action in India that provides historically disadvantaged groups representation in education, employment, government schemes, health, insurance, banking, foreign higher education, scholarships and politics.

Based on provisions in the Indian Constitution, it allows the Union Government and the States and Territories of India to set reserved quotas or seats, which lower the qualifications needed in exams, job openings, university admissions, scholarships, loan approval, promotions etc. for “socially and educationally backward citizens“.

Reservation is provided regardless of financial condition of the beneficiary: meaning that a rich and a poor belonging to a certain class will receive equal treatment from the government.)

The reaction in the Kashmir Valley was effectively reduced to silence through the suspension of communication and with imposition of curfew (Section 144).

Many nationalists celebrated, declaring the move to herald public order and prosperity in Kashmir.

Above: Police in Kashmir confronting protesters

Secretary-General of the United Nations António Guterres expressed his concern over “restrictions” in Jammu and Kashmir saying that the curbs “could exacerbate the human rights situation in the region“.

The Secretary-General called on all parties to “refrain from taking steps that could affect the status of Jammu and Kashmir” and asked for the final status to be settled by peaceful means.

Above: UN Secretary-General António Guterres

UN spokesperson Stéphane Dujarric expressed concern over India’s move to revoke the special status of Kashmir and said that “the United Nations Secretary-General all along maintained that Pakistan and India should resolve all outstanding disputes between the two countries through dialogue including Kashmir“.

He urged both India and Pakistan to exercise restraint.

Above: UN Spokesman Stéphane Dujarric

UN Special Rapporteur on Freedom of Expression David Kaye described the communication blackout imposed by India as “unprecedented” and “draconian“.

Above: David Kaye

Amnesty International responded that the Indian government’s action would “likely to inflame tensions in the area and increase the risk of further human rights violations“.

It also mentioned that “use of pellet guns and other weapons are in defiance of international human rights standards“, after the Indian Supreme Court refused to lift restrictions on Jammu and Kashmir.

Human Rights Watch mentioned that basic freedoms was at risk in Kashmir, and asked India to ensure rights protections in Kashmir and “step back“.

Reporters Without Borders reported that Indian-administered Kashmir is cut off from the world and said:

The state of Jammu and Kashmir became a news and information black hole in the space of a single morning yesterday.

The organization condemned “the relentless information warfare that Prime Minister Narendra Modi began waging ten days ago by severing all communication in the Kashmir Valley” and called for the immediate restoration of all means of communication.

Above: Logo of Reporters sans frontières (Reporters Without Borders)

Genocide Watch, member and current Coordinator of the Alliance Against Genocide, issued a ‘genocide alert‘ calling upon “the United Nations and its members to warn India not to commit genocide in Kashmir” since it claimed that all the “ten stages of the genocidal process” are far advanced and early warnings of “massacres” in the risk factors for genocide are fulfilled.)

(The Indian Constitution implemented in 1950 guaranteed citizenship to all of the country’s residents at the commencement of the Constitution, and made no distinction on the basis of religion

In 1955, the Indian government passed the Citizenship Act, by which all people born in India, subject to some limitations, were accorded citizenship.

The Act also provided two means for foreigners to acquire Indian citizenship.

People from “undivided India” were given a means of registration after seven years of residency in India.

Those from other countries were given a means of naturalisation after twelve years of residency in India.

Political developments in the 1980s, particularly those related to the violent Assam movement against migrants from Bangladesh, triggered revisions to the Citizenship Act of 1955.

The Act was first amended in 1985, granting citizenship to all Bangladeshi migrants that arrived before 1971, subject to some provisos.

The government also agreed to identify all migrants that arrived afterwards, remove their names from the electoral rolls, and expel them from the country.

The Citizenship Act was further amended in 1992, 2003, 2005 and 2015.

Above: National Emblem of India

In December 2003, the National Democratic Alliance government, led by the BJP, passed the Citizenship Amendment Act with far-reaching revisions of the Citizenship Act.

It added the notion of “illegal immigrants” to the Act, making them ineligible to apply for citizenship (by registration or naturalisation), and declaring their children also as illegal immigrants. 

Illegal immigrants were defined as citizens of other countries who entered India without valid travel documents, or who remained in the country beyond the period permitted by their travel documents.

They can be deported or imprisoned.

Above: Logo of the National Democratic Alliance (NDA)

The 2003 amendment also mandated the Government of India to create and maintain a National Register of Citizens.

The bill was supported by the Indian National Congress, as well as left parties. 

Above: Logo of the Indian National Congress

During the parliamentary debate on the amendment, the Leader of the Opposition, Manmohan Singh, stated that refugees belonging to minority communities in Bangladesh and other countries had faced persecution, and requested a liberal approach to granting them citizenship.

Above: Former Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh (r. 2004 – 2014)

The formulation of the 2003 amendment was based on the idea that Muslim groups in Pakistan and Afghanistan that had experienced persecution also needed to be treated with compassion.

Above: Flag of Afghanistan

A very large number of illegal immigrants, the largest numbers of whom are from Bangladesh, live in India.

The Task Force on Border Management quoted the figure of 15 million illegal migrants in 2001.

In 2004, the government stated in Parliament that there were 12 million illegal Bangladeshi migrants in India.

The reasons for the scale of migration include a porous border, historical migration patterns, economic reasons, and cultural and linguistic ties.

Many illegal migrants from Bangladesh had eventually received the right to vote.

This enfranchisement was widely described as an attempt to win elections using the votes of the illegal migrants from Bangladesh.

It has been estimated that over 11 million Hindus have left Bangladesh for India between 1964 and 2013, at a rate of 230,612 annually.

The reasons were religious persecution and discrimination, especially at the hands of the post-independence military regimes. 

An unknown number of Pakistani Hindu refugees also live in India.

An estimated 5,000 refugees arrive per year, citing religious persecution and forced conversion.

India is not a signatory to either the 1951 UN Refugee Convention or the 1967 Protocol.

It does not have a national policy on refugees.

All refugees are classed as “illegal migrants“.

While India has been willing to host refugees, its traditional position is that such refugees must return to their home countries after the situation returns to normal. 

According to the US Committee for Refugees and Immigrants, India hosts refugees in excess of 456,000, with about 200,000 from “non-neighbouring” countries.

Since the 1950s and particularly since the 1990s, Indian governments under various political parties have studied and drafted laws for the naturalization of refugees and asylum seekers.

These drafts have struggled with issues relating to a mass influx of refugees, urban planning, cost of basic services, the obligations to protected tribes, and the impact on pre-existing regional poverty levels within India.

The “detection, deletion and deportation” of illegal migrants has been on the agenda of the BJP since 1996. 

In the 2016 assembly elections for the border state of Assam, the BJP leaders campaigned in the state promising voters that they would rid Assam of the Bangladeshis.

Simultaneously, they also promised to protect Hindus who had fled religious persecution in Bangladesh.

According to commentators, in the context of an effort to identify and deport illegal immigrants, the proposal to grant citizenship took a new meaning.

Illegal migrants could be granted citizenship if they were non-Muslim, on the grounds that they were refugees; only Muslims would be deported.

In its manifesto for the 2014 Indian General Election, the BJP promised to provide a “natural home” for persecuted Hindu refugees. 

The year before the 2016 elections in Assam, the government legalised refugees belonging to religious minorities from Pakistan and Bangladesh, granting them long-term visas.

Bangladeshi and Pakistani nationals belonging to “minority communities” were exempted from the requirements of the Passport (Entry into India) Act, 1920 and the Foreigners Act, 1946.

Specifically mentioned were “Hindus, Sikhs, Christians, Jains, Parsis and Buddhists“, who had been “compelled to seek shelter in India due to religious persecution or fear of religious persecution“.

Eligibility for the exemption was made contingent on a migrant having arrived in India by 31 December 2014.

The BJP government introduced a bill to amend the citizenship law in 2016, which would have made non-Muslim migrants from Pakistan, Afghanistan, and Bangladesh eligible for Indian citizenship.

The bill stalled in Parliament following widespread political opposition and protests in northeast India.

Opponents of the bill in Assam and the northeastern states of India stated that any migration from Bangladesh “irrespective of religion” would cause “loss of political rights and culture of the indigenous people”.

Above: Map of Assam

According to Niraja Jayal, while the BJP had promised to grant Indian citizenship to all Hindu migrants from Bangladesh in its election campaigns during the 2010s, the draft Amendment bill angered many in Assam, including its own political allies because they view the amendment as a violation of the Assam Accord.

That accord promised to identify and deport all illegal Bangladeshi migrants who entered the state after 1971, “regardless of their religious identity“.

In 2018, as the draft of this Amendment was being discussed, numerous Assamese organisations petitioned and agitated against it.

They fear that the Amendment will encourage more migration and diminish employment opportunities to the native residents in the state.

Above: Niraja Jayal

The Citizenship Amendment Act (CAA) was passed by the Parliament of India on 11 December 2019.

It amended the Citizenship Act of 1955 by providing a pathway to Indian citizenship for persecuted religious minorities from Afghanistan, Bangladesh and Pakistan who are Hindus, Sikhs, Buddhists, Jains, Parsis or Christians, and arrived in India before the end of December 2014.

The law does not grant such eligibility to Muslims from these Muslim-majority countries.

The act was the first time that religion had been overtly used as a criterion for citizenship under Indian law and attracted global criticism.

Above: Statue of Chandragupta Maurya (350 – 295 BCE) at the Parliament of India, New Delhi

The BJP government had promised in previous election manifestos to offer Indian citizenship to members of persecuted religious minorities who had migrated from neighbouring countries.

Under the 2019 amendment, migrants who had entered India by 31 December 2014, and had suffered “religious persecution or fear of religious persecution” in their country of origin, were made eligible for citizenship.

The amendment also relaxed the residence requirement for naturalization of these migrants from twelve years to six. 

According to Intelligence Bureau records, there will be just over 30,000 immediate beneficiaries of the bill.

Above: Logo of India’s Intelligence Bureau

The amendment has been criticized as discriminating on the basis of religion, particularly for excluding Muslims.

The Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Human Rights (OHCHR) called it “fundamentally discriminatory“, adding that while India’s “goal of protecting persecuted groups is welcome“, this should be accomplished through a non-discriminatory “robust national asylum system“.

Above: OHCHR logo

Critics express concerns that the bill would be used, along with the National Register of Citizens (NRC), to render many Muslim citizens stateless, as they may be unable to meet stringent birth or identity proof requirements.

Commentators also question the exclusion of persecuted religious minorities from other regions such as Tibet, Sri Lanka and Myanmar.

Above: Flag of Sri Lanka

Above: Flag of Myanmar

The Indian government said that since Pakistan, Afghanistan and Bangladesh have Islam as their state religion, it is therefore “unlikely” that Muslims would “face religious persecution” there.

However, certain Muslim groups, such as Hazaras and Ahmadis, have historically faced persecution in these countries.

The passage of the legislation caused large scale protests in India.

Assam and other northeastern states witnessed violent demonstrations against the bill over fears that granting Indian citizenship to refugees and immigrants will cause a loss of their “political rights, culture and land rights” and motivate further migration from Bangladesh.

In other parts of India, protesters said that the bill discriminated against Muslims, and demanded that Indian citizenship be granted to Muslim refugees and immigrants as well.

Major protests against the Act were held at some universities in India.

Students at Aligarh Muslim University and Jamia Millia Islamia alleged brutal suppression by the police.

Above: Logo of Jamia Millia, New Delhi, India

The protests have led to the deaths of several protesters, injuries to both protesters and police officers, damage to public and private property, the detention of hundreds of people, and suspensions of local internet mobile phone connectivity in certain areas.

Some states announced that they would not implement the Act.

In response, the Union Home Ministry said that states lack the legal power to stop the implementation of the CAA.)

Described as engineering a political realignment towards right wing politics, Modi remains a figure of controversy domestically and internationally over his Hindu nationalist beliefs and his handling of the 2002 Gujarat riots, cited as evidence of an exclusionary social agenda.

Above: Skyline of Ahmedabad filled with smoke as buildings are set on fire by rioting mobs, 1 January 2002

(On 27 February 2002, a train with several hundred passengers burned near Godhra, killing approximately 60 people.

The train carried a large number of Hindu pilgrims returning from Ayodhya after a religious ceremony at the site of the demolished Babri Masjid.

In making a public statement after the incident, Modi declared it a terrorist attack planned and orchestrated by local Muslims. 

The next day, the Vishwa Hindu Parishad called for a bandh (general strike) across the state.

Riots began during the bandh, and anti-Muslim violence spread through Gujarat.

The government’s decision to move the bodies of the train victims from Godhra to Ahmedabad further inflamed the violence.

The state government stated later that 790 Muslims and 254 Hindus were killed. 

Independent sources put the death toll at over 2,000, the vast majority Muslims. 

Approximately 150,000 people were driven to refugee camps.

Numerous women and children were among the victims.

The violence included mass rapes and mutilations of women.

The government of Gujarat itself is generally considered by scholars to have been complicit in the riots (with some blaming then-Chief Minister Modi explicitly) and has otherwise received heavy criticism for its handling of the situation.

Several scholars have described the violence as a pogrom, while others have called it an example of state terrorism.

There is by now a broad consensus that the Gujarat violence was a form of ethnic cleansing, that in many ways it was premeditated, and that it was carried out with the complicity of the state government and officers of the law.”

The Modi government imposed a curfew in 26 major cities, issued shoot-at-sight orders and called for the army to patrol the streets, but was unable to prevent the violence from escalating.

The President of the state unit of the BJP expressed support for the bandh, despite such actions being illegal at the time. 

State officials later prevented riot victims from leaving the refugee camps, and the camps were often unable to meet the needs of those living there. 

Muslim victims of the riots were subject to further discrimination when the state government announced that compensation for Muslim victims would be half of that offered to Hindus, although this decision was later reversed after the issue was taken to court.

During the riots, police officers often did not intervene in situations where they were able.

Modi’s personal involvement in the 2002 events has continued to be debated.

During the riots, Modi said that:

What is happening is a chain of action and reaction.” 

Later in 2002, Modi said the way in which he had handled the media was his only regret regarding the episode.)

The basic premise of Hindu nationalists is:

Look what they did to us!

They tried to crush us.

We are now strong.

They are still a threat.

Let’s consider that premise by looking first at India before independence:

Early on in the second millennium BCE, persistent drought caused the population of the Indus Valley to scatter from large urban centres to villages.

Around the same time, Indo-Aryan tribes moved into the Punjab from Central Asia in several waves of migration.

Their Vedic Period (1500 – 500 BCE) was marked by the composition of the Vedas, large collections of hymns of these tribes.

Their varna system, which evolved into the caste system, consisted of a hierarchy of priests, warriors and free peasants.

The pastoral and nomadic Indo-Aryans spread from the Punjab into the Gangetic plain, large swaths of which they deforested for agriculture usage.

The composition of Vedic texts ended around 600 BCE, when a new, interregional culture arose.

Small chieftaincies, or janapadas, were consolidated into larger states, or mahajanapadas, and a second urbanisation took place.

This urbanisation was accompanied by the rise of new ascetic movements in Greater Magadha, including Jainism and Buddhism, which opposed the growing influence of Brahmanism and the primacy of rituals, presided by Brahmin priests, that had come to be associated with Vedic religion, and gave rise to new religious concepts. 

In response to the success of these movements, Vedic Brahamism was synthesized with the pre-existing religious cultures of the subcontinent, giving rise to Hinduism.

Above: North Gateway, Sanchi Hill

Most of the Indian subcontinent was conquered by the Maurya Empire during the 4th and 3rd centuries BCE.

From the 3rd century BCE onwards, Prakit and Pali literature in the north and Tamil Sangram literature in southern India started to flourish.

Wootz steel originated in south India in the 3rd century BCE and was exported.

Above: Wootz steel (left) and Damascus steel (right)

The Maurya Empire would collapse in 185 BCE, on the assassination of Emperor Brihadratha, by his General Pushayamitra Shunga.

Shunga would go on to form the Shunga Empire, in the north and northeast of the subcontinent, while the Greco-Bactrian Kingdom would claim the northwest, and found the Indo-Greek Kingdom.

Above: Pushyamitra Shunga (r. 185 – 149 BCE)

During this Classical Period, various parts of India were ruled by numerous dynasties, including the Gupta Empire (4th to 6th centuries CE).

This period, witnessing a Hindu religious and intellectual resurgence, is known as the classical or “Golden Age of India“.

During this period, aspects of Indian civilisation, administration, culture and religion (Hinduism and Buddhism) spread to much of Asia, while kingdoms in southern India had maritime business links with the Middle East and the Mediterranean.

Indian cultural influence spread over many parts of Southeast Asia, which led to the establishment of Indianized kingdoms in Southeast Asia (Greater India).

The most significant event between the 7th and 11th century was the tripartite struggle centred on Kannauj that lasted for more than two centuries between the Pala Empire, the Rashtrakuta Empire and the Gurjura-Pratihara Empire. 

Southern India saw the rise of multiple imperial powers from the middle of the 5th century, most notably the Chalukya, Chola, Pallava, Chera, and Pandyan Empires.

The Chola dynasty conquered southern India and successfully invaded parts of Southeast Asia, Sri Lanka, the Maldives and Bengal in the 11th century.

In the early medieval period Indian mathematics, including Hindu numerals, influenced the development of mathematics and astronomy in the Arab world.

Islamic conquests made limited inroads into modern Afghanistan and Sindh as early as the 8th century, followed by the invasions of Mahmud Ghazni.

The Delhi Sultanate was founded in 1206 CE by Central Asian Turks who ruled a major part of the northern Indian subcontinent in the early 14th century, but declined in the late 14th century, and saw the advent of the Deccan sultanates.

Above: Map of the Delhi Sultanate

The wealthy Bengal Sultanate also emerged as a major power, lasting over three centuries.

Above: Flag of the Bengal Sultanate (1352 – 1576)

This period also saw the emergence of several powerful Hindu states, notably Vijayanagara and Rajput states, such as Mewar.

Above: Flag of Vijayanagara

Above: Coat of arms of Mewar State

The 15th century saw the advent of Sikhism.

Above: Khanda, logo of Sikhism

The early modern period began in the 16th century, when the Mughal Empire conquered most of the Indian subcontinent, signalling the proto-industrialization, becoming the biggest global economy and manufacturing power, with a nominal GDP that valued a quarter of world GDP, superior than the combination of Europe’s GDP.

The Mughals (16th – 19th centuries) suffered a gradual decline in the early 18th century, which provided opportunities for the Marathas, Sikhs, Mysoreans, Nizams and Nawabs of Bengal to exercise control over large regions of the Indian subcontinent.

Although the Mughal empire was created and sustained by military warfare, it did not vigorously suppress the cultures and peoples it came to rule.

Rather it equalized and placated them through new administrative practices, and diverse ruling elites, leading to more efficient, centralized and standardized rule

From the mid-18th century to the mid-19th century, large regions of India were gradually annexed by the East India Company, a chartered company acting as a sovereign power on behalf of the British government.

Abpve: Flag of the British East India Company (1801 – 1858)

Dissatisfaction with company rule in India led to the Indian Rebellion of 1857, which rocked parts of north and central India, and led to the dissolution of the Company.

India was afterwards ruled directly by the British Crown, in the British Raj.

After World War 1, a nationwide struggle for independence was launched by the Indian National Congress party, led by Mahatma Gandhi, and noted for non-violence.

Above: Gandhi during the Salt March, March 1930

(The Salt March, also known as the Salt SatyagrahaDandi March and the Dandi Satyagraha, was an act of non-violent civil disobedience in colonial India led by Mahatma Gandhi.

The twenty-four day march lasted from 12 March 1930 to 6 April 1930 as a direct action campaign of tax resistance and non-violent protest against the British salt monopoly.

Another reason for this march was that the Civil Disobedience Movement needed a strong inauguration that would inspire more people to follow Gandhi’s example.

Gandhi started this march with 78 of his trusted volunteers.

The march spanned 385 kilometres (239 mi), from Sabarmati Ashram to Dandi.

Growing numbers of Indians joined them along the way.

When Gandhi broke the British Raj salt laws at 8:30 am on 6 April 1930, it sparked large scale acts of civil disobedience against the salt laws by millions of Indians.

After making the salt by evaporation at Dandi, Gandhi continued southward along the coast, making salt and addressing meetings on the way.

The Congress Party planned to stage a satyagraha (polite insistence) at the Dharasana Salt Works, 40 km (25 mi) south of Dandi.

Above: National Salt Satyagraha Memorial, Dandi

However, Gandhi was arrested at midnight of 5 May 1930, just days before the planned action at Dharasana.

The Dandi March and the ensuing Dharasana Satyagraha drew worldwide attention to the Indian independence movement through extensive newspaper and newsreel coverage.

The satyagraha against the salt tax continued for almost a year, ending with Gandhi’s release from jail and negotiations with Viceroy Lord Irwin at the Second Round Table Conference.

Above: Edward Frederick Lindley Wood, 1st Earl of Halifax (aka Lord Irwin) (1881 – 1959)

Although over 60,000 Indians were jailed as a result of the Salt Satyagraha, the British did not make immediate major concessions.

The Salt Satyagraha campaign was based upon Gandhi’s principles of non-violent protest called satyagraha, which he loosely translated as “truth force“.

Literally, it is formed from the Sanskrit words satya, “truth“, and agraha, “insistence“.

In early 1920 the Indian National Congress chose satyagraha as their main tactic for winning Indian sovereignty and self-rule from British rule and appointed Gandhi to organise the campaign.

Gandhi chose the 1882 British Salt Act as the first target of satyagraha.

Above: Gandhi at a public rally during the Salt Satyagraha

The Salt March to Dandi, and the beating by the colonial police of hundreds of non-violent protesters in Dharasana, which received worldwide news coverage, demonstrated the effective use of civil disobedience as a technique for fighting social and political injustice.

The satyagraha teachings of Gandhi and the March to Dandi had a significant influence on American activists Martin Luther King Jr., James Bevel, and others during the Civil Rights Movement for civil rights for African Americans and other minority groups in the 1960s. 

Above: Reverend James Bevel (1936 – 2008), former Director of Direct Action and Director of Nonviolent Education of the Southern Christian Leadership Conference

Above: Civil Rights March on Washington (DC), 28 August 1963

The March was the most significant organised challenge to British authority since the non-cooperation movement (1920 –1922), and directly followed the Purna Swaraj declaration of sovereignty and self-rule by the Indian National Congress on 26 January 1930.

It gained worldwide attention which gave impetus to the Indian independence movement and started the nationwide Civil Disobedience movement which continued until 1934.)

Above: Flag of India (1931)

Later, the All-India Muslim League would advocate for a separate Muslim-majority nation state.

The British Indian Empire was partitioned in August 1947 into the Dominion of India and the Dominion of Pakistan, each gaining its independence.

Above: Flag of the All-India Muslim League (today Pakistan)

In the 1930s, the idea of a separate nation-state and influential philosopher Sir Muhammad Iqbal’s vision of uniting the four provinces in northwest British India further supported the rationale of the two nation theory aligning with the same ideas proposed by Syed Ahmad Khan who in 1888 at Meerut said:

After this long preface I wish to explain what method my nation — nay, rather the whole people of this country — ought to pursue in political matters.

I will treat in regular sequence of the political questions of India, in order that you may have full opportunity of giving your attention to them.

The first of all is this — In whose hands shall the administration and the Empire of India rest?

Now, suppose that all English, and the whole English army, were to leave India, taking with them all their cannon and their splendid weapons and everything, then who would be rulers of India?

Is it possible that under these circumstances two nations — the Mahomedans and the Hindus — could sit on the same throne and remain equal in power?

Most certainly not.

It is necessary that one of them should conquer the other and thrust it down.

To hope that both could remain equal is to desire the impossible and the inconceivable.

Above: South Asian Muslim writer, philosopher, and politician Muhammad Iqbal (1877 – 1938)

Above: Syed Ahmad Khan (1817 – 1898)

With global events leading up to World War 2 and the Congress party’s effective protest against the United Kingdom unilaterally involving India in the War without consulting the Indian people, the Muslim League went on to support the British war efforts.

The Muslim League played a decisive role in the 1940s, becoming a driving force behind the division of India along religious lines and the creation of Pakistan as a Muslim state in 1947.

After the partition and subsequent establishment of Pakistan, the All-India Muslim League was formally disbanded in India and the leftover Muslim League diminished to a minor party, that too only in Kerala, India.

Above: The partition of India, 1947

In Bangladesh, the Muslim League was revived in 1976 but it was reduced in size, rendering it insignificant in the political arena.

Above: Emblem of Bangladesh

In India, a separate independent entity called the Indian Union Muslim League was formed, which continues to have a presence in the Indian Parliament to this day.

Above: Logo of the Indian Union Muslim League

In Pakistan, the Pakistan Muslim League eventually split into several political parties, which became the successors of the All-India Muslim League.

Above: State emblem of Pakistan

My reservations, though coupled with my congratulations, regarding the Ram temple of Ayodhya is that nationalists are using religion to further their domination goals.

Certainly, Muslims don’t need the exact location of the temple for their mosque.

Ayodhya can accommodate more than two religious buildings and two faiths.

Certainly, Ayodhya as the birthplace of one of God’s avatars is important enough to preserve and protect, and the commemoration of the temple is an event all Hindus should celebrate.

Above: Ram Mandir (once completed)

But this temple also causes me great concern, for it is used as a symbol of the ruling BJP to promote a Hindu-majoritarian view of India’s past and future, a powerful paramilitary movement that eerily echoes the shadows of Europe’s pre-WW2 fascism.

Above: Benito Mussolini (1883 – 1945) (left) and Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945) (right), the leaders of Fascist Italy (1922 – 1943) and Nazi Germany (1933 – 1945) respectively, were both fascists. – Munich, Germany, 19 June 1940

Like them, the BJP thrives on an US versus THEM sense of identity, with the country’s 200 million Muslims as the chief bogeymen.

Among BJP politicians, anti-Muslim hate speech remains rife.

Last week, India celebrated its 75th anniversary of its independence.

In 2024, everyone fully expects that Narendra Modi will be anointed for a 3rd term as Prime Minister.

There is talk among Modi adepts of an emerging second republic, its past scrubbed of foreign influence (including – especially? – Islam) and its present (and future) defined by a Hindu state as envisioned by the BJP.

Despite being a man who does not adhere to any religion, I can understand the impact and value of religion in the lives of the common people.

But I strenuously object to faith being used as justification for power and prejudice.

The sounds of cheering for Ayodhya linger loudly, but the taste of victory is truly bittersweet.

Now all of the planes have landed
Soldiers are in their beds
Smoke rises from their clothing
Sweet dreams through their heads

Truth faced leaves a strange taste
When joy and sadness meet
A country rain on a city street
This life is bittersweet

The boy with the bloated belly
Hears today’s trucks arrive
He puts down his baby sister
Makes his way outside

Truth faced leaves a strange taste
When joy and sadness meet
A country rain on a city street
This life is bittersweet

Everyone’s a novelist
Everyone can sing
But no one talks when the TV’s on

Sweet dreams fill their heads
The lightning flashed, and the thunder rolled
Dark clouds filled the sky
A country rain on a city street
This life is bittersweet

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Alain de Botton, The Art of Travel / Lonely Planet India / Moxy Früvous, “Bittersweet” / Joanna Slater and Niha Masih, “As a Hindu temple starts to rise, Modi is transforming India“, Washington Post, 5 August 2020 / Huston Smith, The World’s Religions / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Rick Steves, Travel as a Political Act

Swiss Miss and the Birthplace of Beauty

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Wednesday 29 June 2022

Time and distance do not enhance relationships.

Certainly this can be said for all sorts of relationships – romantic or platonic, friends or family.

What is essential in these relationships separated by time and distance is communication.

Sadly, not every two people excel at intercommunication.

This is true about my platonic friendship with Heidi Hoi / Swiss Miss.

This is true when I attempt to recapture the essence of her travels in lands as yet unvisited by me.

But the travel discoveries she made (and the discoveries I have made in my research about those travels) still bear mention, which is why I persevere in these blogpost descriptions.

Part of the challenge is that time has passed and memories have faded since her travels, so there are moments I need to imagine the exact routing she may have followed in her journey or conversely what route I might have followed had I been in her shoes instead.

I know from records kept that the next phase of her travels in Vietnam was from Ninh Binh to Vinh.

What I don’t know is what exactly transpired on that day nor whether she diverged from the direct path between these Vietnamese cities.

So I am compelled to write of what I would have seen had I been there until I can return in confidence to the better documented portions of her travels.

Above: Flag of Vietnam

Ninh Binh to Vinh, Vietnam, Tuesday 26 March 2019

The world on this day was, as usual, a troubled place:

  • According to Israel Today, a senior Hamas official, speaking on condition of anonymity, claimed that Iran’s rulers ordered the rocket attack on Mishmeret in central Israel on 25 March 2019, which injured seven Israelis.

Above: A house is taken care of by the Fire Department after being hit by rocket fire coming from the Gaza Strip, Moshav Herut

Above: Flag of Hamas

Above: Mishmeret

The rocket attack was carried out by the Islamic Jihad Movement in Palestine, which is alleged to be heavily financed by Iran.

Above: Islamic Jihad Movement logo

Above: Flag of Iran

The Hamas official said that Hamas’s goal was to hurt Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu’s chances of getting reelected in the elections of 9 April 2019.

(Netanyahu remained in power until 13 June 2021.)

Above: Benjamin Netanyahu

  • An airstrike carried out in northwest Yemen killed seven and injured eight others at a Kitaf hospital.

Above: Flag of Yemen

The airstrike occurred early when patients and staff members were arriving.

A charity has condemned an air strike near a hospital in rebel-held northwestern Yemen that killed at least eight people, five of them children.

A missile hit a petrol station 50 metres / 164 feet from the entrance of the Kitaf rural hospital on Tuesday morning, according to Save the Children.

The blast also injured eight people.

It was not clear who was behind the attack, but a Saudi-led coalition is carrying out air strikes in support of the government in Yemen’s civil war.

The coalition insists it never deliberately targets civilians, but human rights groups have accused it of bombing markets, schools, hospitals and residential areas.

Above: Flag of Saudi Arabia

Tuesday was the 4th anniversary of the escalation of the civil war, which has killed thousands and pushed millions to the brink of starvation.

Above: Ongoing conflicts around the world – Major wars: 10,000+ deaths per year (brown) / Wars: 1,000 – 9,999 deaths per year (red) / Minor conflicts: 100 – 999 deaths per year (orange) / Skirmishes and clashes: 10 – 99 deaths per year (yellow)

Save the Children says the petrol station in the area, which is 60km (40 miles) from the city of Saada, was struck by a missile at about 09:30 (06:30 GMT) on Tuesday, as many people were arriving at the nearby hospital.

An eight-year-old boy was the youngest person killed.

Another boy aged 10, two boys aged 12, and one boy aged 14 also lost their lives.

One injured health worker, who was in the emergency room treating two young children when the strike happened, said:

All people were screaming and running out of the hospital.

The structure of the hospital was totally damaged inside.

Our colleague lost two children.

They were burned.

I got injured in my head and I was bleeding.

I ran away from the hospital with my colleague to a safe place but we found nothing that could help me stop the bleeding.

It was the most difficult moment of my life.

Helle Thorning-Schmidt, the chief executive of Save the Children International, said she was “shocked and appalled by this outrageous attack” on a medical facility that the charity supported, and she demanded an urgent investigation.

Innocent children and health workers have lost their lives in what appears to been an indiscriminate attack on a hospital in a densely populated civilian area.

Attacks like these are a breach of international law.”, she added.

Above: Helle Thorning-Schmidt

This hospital was “de-conflicted“, which means all the warring parties were made aware of its location and were obliged to avoid it by a radius of 100m.

Residents and the rebel Houthi movement blamed the Saudi-led coalition for the attack.

Save the Children noted that the only warring party with access to planes that can carry out air strikes is the coalition.

The rebel-run health ministry condemned the “coalition’s continued disregard for Yemeni lives” and said it had committed four war crimes in targeting the hospital.

There was no immediate comment from coalition officials.

Above: Houthi movement banner

Save the Children reported on Monday that at least 226 Yemeni children had been killed and 217 more injured in air raids carried out by the Saudi-led coalition in the past year (2018 – 2019).

(The Yemeni Civil War is an ongoing multilateral civil war that began in late 2014 mainly between the Abdrabbuh Mansur Hadi-led Yemeni government and the Houthi armed movement, along with their supporters and allies.

Both claim to constitute the official government of Yemen.

According to the UN, over 150,000 people have been killed in Yemen, as well as estimates of more than 227,000 dead as a result of an ongoing famine and lack of healthcare facilities due to the war.

In 2018, the United Nations warned that 13 million Yemeni civilians face starvation in what it says could become “the worst famine in the world in 100 years“.

Above: Flag of the United Nations

The crisis has only begun to gain as much international media attention as the Syrian civil war in 2018.

The international community has condemned the Saudi Arabian-led bombing campaign, which has included widespread bombing of civilian areas inside the Houthi-controlled western part of Yemen.

According to the Yemen Data Project, the bombing campaign has killed or injured an estimated 19,196 civilians as of March 2022.

The United States has provided intelligence and logistical support for the Saudi-led campaign, which continues despite the Biden Administration’s pledges to withdraw US support for Saudi Arabia in the Yemen War.)

Above: US President Joe Biden

  • The death toll of the floods and landslide in Jayapura, Indonesia, rose to 113.

Above: An airplane hanger brought down by flash floods sits in the mud in Sentani, Papua province, Indonesia.

At least 94 others are still missing. 

The Indonesian Red Cross is continuing search and rescue efforts in the wake of devastating floods that killed at least 113 people in the eastern province of Papua, with almost 100 still missing more than a week after the disaster struck.

Above: Flag of the Indonesian province of Papua

More than 11,500 people were displaced in flash floods and a subsequent landslide in the Sentani area of the provincial capital, Jayapura, earlier this month.

As many as 94 people remain missing, according to state media TVRI, and a state of emergency will remain in place until Friday.

Indonesian Search and Rescue teams (TIMSAR) are still searching the affected area for survivors, according to Christa Stefanie, a spokeswoman from Tangan Pengharapan, an Indonesian social enterprise.

Continued heavy rains have increased the likelihood of another flash flood, she said, adding that the conditions have slowed the search for the remaining missing people.

The landslides caused by this flash flood covered the entire area with mud.

This greatly slows down the searching process, especially since the government avoids using heavy machinery in some areas in fear of injuring the survivors.

Above: Logo of the Indonesian Search and Rescue

At a coordination meeting held over the weekend, Indonesian Red Cross (PMI) head Sunarbowo Sandi told local media that workers were focused on “efforts to speed up handling and support for the rescue operations by the PMI during the emergency response period“.

Rosemarie North, of the International Red Cross, told CNN that aid workers have been distributing baby kits, buckets, tarpaulins and kitchen supplies.

Volunteers are also helping dig and maintain latrines for displaced people, she added.

Stefanie, the Tangan Pengharapan official, added that clothing, food and other essentials are being donated by other organizations.

Some areas of Papua province received more than 18 inches (450 millimeters) of rain over three three days.

However authorities could not reach some of the hardest-hit areas because of downed trees, damaged roads and detritus blocking their paths.

The Papua provincial government has pledged to relocate residents living in the Cycloop mountains region, where deforestation was identified as the main reason for the floods.

Above: A car sits abandoned in the mud on a flooded street.

The province’s deputy governor, Klemen Tinal, said that the government had asked residents to stop logging activities in the Cycloop nature reserve area, according to CNN affiliate CNN Indonesia.

People should be aware that in the future they will not carry out activities in the Cycloop area.

Flash floods cannot be considered ordinary.”, he said.

  • The death toll from flash flooding in Iran rose to 21.

From mid-March to April 2019, widespread flash flooding affected large parts of Iran, most severely in Golestan, Fars, Khuzestan, Lorestan, and other provinces.

Iran was hit by three major waves of rain and flooding over the course of two weeks which led to flooding in at least 26 of Iran’s 31 provinces. 

At least 70 people died nationwide as of 6 April, according to officials.

The first wave of rain began on 17 March, leading to flooding in two northern provinces, Golestan and Mazandaran with the former province receiving as much as 70% of its average annual rainfall in single day. 

Several large dams overflowed, particularly in Khuzestan and Golestan.

As a result, many villages and several cities were evacuated.

About 1,900 cities and villages across the country were damaged by severe flooding as well as hundreds of millions of dollars of damage to infrastructure.

78 roads were blocked and the reliability of 84 bridges was questioned.

The severity of the floods was greatly increased by converting flood routes and dry river beds for urban development without providing proper drainage infrastructure.

Above: Flooding in Aqqala, Golestan, Iran

According to an Iranian official, due to record rainfalls, more than 140 rivers burst their banks and about 409 landslides happened in the country.

The impact of the floods was heightened because of the Nowruz holiday.

Above: Safavid King Shah Abbas II (1632 – 1666) celebrates Nowruz (Persian New Year)

Many Iranians were travelling and many deaths occurred due to flash flooding on roads and highways.

Around 12,000 km of roads were damaged by the flooding, about 36% of Iran’s national road network.

The floods caused at least $2.2 billion (2019 USD) in damages, mostly due to losses in the agricultural industry.

Further, according to the Red Crescent, two million people were in need of humanitarian aid due to the devastating floods.

Above: Flag of the Red Crescent (Islam’s equivalent of the Red Cross)

Civil and armed forces were mobilized as of 24 March at the bequest of Ali Khamenei, Iran’s Supreme Leader, and Vice President Eshaq Jahangiri.

Several ministers as well as army commanders travelled to the areas affected by floods. 

However, the lack of government aid and delayed response in the first days quickly heightened political tensions throughout the nation.

Above. Iranian Supreme Leader Ali Khamenei

Above: Iranian Vice President Eshaq Jahangiri

Many Iranians, including politicians, took to social media platforms to criticize the handling of the floods by the government, specifically President Hassan Rouhani.

Civilian outrage ultimately led to deadly clashes between protesters and government soldiers.

The floods prompted a large outcry against the government rule, which was perceived as worsening the floods through destructive measures, such as the destruction of natural plant coverage, obstruction of flood outlets, and converting flood routes and dry river beds to residential areas following the Islamic Revolution.

Above: Hassan Rouhani, former President of Iran (2013 – 2021)




  • The Spanish Audiencia Nacional revealed that an attack on the North Korean embassy in Madrid on 22 February was led by a Mexican citizen residing in the US who later offered the FBI data stolen during the incident. 

Above: Audiencia Nacional (National Court) building in Madrid, Spain

Above: Flag of North Korea

Above: Embassy of North Korea, Madrid

Spain has issued at least two international arrest warrants for members of a self-proclaimed human rights group who allegedly led a mysterious raid at the North Korean Embassy in Madrid last month and offered the FBI stolen data from the break-in.

A National Court judge who lifted a secrecy order in the case Tuesday said an investigation of the 22 February attack uncovered evidence that “a criminal organization” shackled and gagged embassy staff members before escaping with computers, hard drives and documents.

The intruders also urged North Korea’s only accredited diplomat in Spain, business envoy So Yun Sok, to defect, Judge Jose de la Mata said in a written report on the Spanish investigation.

So refused to do so and was gagged, according to the report.

Above: Flag of Spain

The assailants identified themselves as “members of an association or movement of human rights for the liberation of North Korea”.

That group is the Cheollima Civil Defense, now called Free Joseon, according to a US official who spoke on condition of anonymity to discuss details of the incident.

The shadowy activists have the self-declared mission of helping defectors from North Korea.

Above: Logo of Free Joseon

De la Mata identified citizens of Mexico, the United States and South Korea as the main suspects being investigated on charges that include of causing injuries, making threats and burglary.

Above: Flag of Mexico

He named Adrian Hong Chang, a Mexican citizen living in the United States, as the break-in’s leader.

Above: Adrain Hong Chang

Hong Chang flew to the US on 23 February, got in touch with the FBI and offered to share material and videos with federal investigators, according to the court report.

The document did not say what type of information the items contained or whether the FBI accepted the offer.

The FBI said in a statement that its standard practice is to neither confirm nor deny the existence of investigations.

The agency added that “the FBI enjoys a strong working relationship with our Spanish law enforcement partners”.

An official with Spain’s National Police who wasn’t authorized to be named in media reports confirmed to the Associated Press that arrest warrants were issued for Hong Chang and one other suspect.

No one had been charged as of Tuesday.

The assailants purchased knives and handgun mock-ups when they visited Madrid in early February and used them during the attack, according to the investigation document.

While in Madrid, Hong Chang also applied for a new passport at the Mexican Embassy, the investigation found, and used the name “Oswaldo Trump” to register in the Uber ride-hailing app.

Above: Mexican Embassy, Madrid

The North Korean Embassy hasn’t pressed charges in Spain.

Officials in Pyongyang haven’t officially commented on the attack.

Spanish police learned about the break-in after the wife of an embassy employee escaped by jumping from a window.

When officers went to check on the situation, Hong Chang allegedly greeted them at the door and pretended to be a diplomatic official, the investigation found.

He sent the officers away with assurances everything was fine, paving the way for the invading group to make a getaway in the embassy’s cars.

A police investigator with knowledge of the case told the Associated Press (AP) that:

Above: Logo of the Associated Press

This attack, whatever it is, would have gone unnoticed if it wasn’t for the woman who escaped”.

Above: A van with diplomatic plaque exits the North Korean Embassy, 13 March 2019

So, the North Korean diplomat, didn’t respond to written questions from the Associated Press and declined to talk to reporters during a recent encounter outside the Madrid embassy.

The timing of the incident, which happened less than a week before a high-stakes US-North Korea summit on denuclearization derailed in Hanoi on 28 February, led to speculation the incursion was carried out to obtain data related to North Korea’s former ambassador to Spain.

Kim Hyok Chol, who was expelled from Spain in September 2017 following Pyongyang’s 6th nuclear test and its missile launches over neighboring Japan, has become North Korea’s top nuclear negotiator with the US.

Above: Kim Hyok Chol

Asked if Washington had any connection to the embassy break-in, US State Department spokesman Robert Palladino answered:

The United States government had nothing to do with this.

Palladino said that:

Regarding the specifics of what’s going on, the Spanish authorities are investigating.

The investigation is still underway.

For any details on their investigation, I would have to refer you to Spanish authorities.”

The South Korean Embassy in Madrid said it had no knowledge of the events and couldn’t offer further comment.

Others identified as part of the assailants’ group were Sam Ryu, from the US, and Woo Ran Lee, a South Korean citizen.

Above: Flag of South Korea

Their whereabouts and their hometowns weren’t immediately known.

None of the suspects were thought to be still in Spain, the judge wrote.

Spanish authorities tried to keep information about the attack from becoming public until Spain’s El Confidencial news site revealed some details on 27 February.

Above: Logo of El Confidencial

Last week, the rights group that allegedly led the attack posted a short video on its website allegedly showing a man shattering portraits of late North Korean leaders Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il on the floor.

The group said the video was filmed recently “on our homeland’s soil,” wording that would accurately apply to the North Korean Embassy in Madrid.

Above: Kim Il Sung (1912 – 1994)

Above: Kim Jong Il (1941 – 2011)

Algeria’s Chief of Staff of the People’s National Army Ahmed Gaid Salah, the highest-ranked military official in the country, gave a televised address, calling on President Abdelaziz Bouteflika to resign or be declared “unfit to serve” by the People’s National Assembly.

Algeria’s army chief of staff has demanded President Abdelaziz Bouteflika be declared unfit to rule after weeks of protests against him.

Speaking on television, Lt Gen Ahmed Gaed Salah said:

“We must find a way out of this crisis immediately, within the constitutional framework.”

Above: Flag of Algeria

The President has already agreed not to stand for a 5th term in upcoming elections, which have been delayed.

Demonstrators accuse the 82-year-old of a ploy to prolong his 20-year rule.

Talks have been set up to oversee the country’s political transition, draft a new constitution and set the date for elections.

But they do not yet have a date to start.

Above: Abdelaziz Bouteflika (1937 – 2021)

Protests against Bouteflika began last month after the President, who has rarely been seen in public since suffering a stroke in 2013, said he planned to stand for another term.

But people continued to march even after he agreed not to stand, instead demanding immediate change.

Salah – who is also deputy defence minister and seen as loyal to Bouteflika – previously said the military and the people had a united vision of the future, hinting at the armed forces’ support for the demonstrators.

Above: General Ahmed Gaid Salah

Salah said the Constitution was “the only guarantee to preserve a stable political situation“, and called for the use of Article 102, which allows the Constitutional Council to declare the position of President vacant if the leader is unfit to rule.

This solution achieves consensus and must be accepted by all.”, he said to the applause of officers watching the speech.

Above: Emblem of Algeria

Under the Constitution, the head of the Senate, Abdelkader Bansallah, would become the acting head of state until an election could be held.

Reports suggest the Constitutional Council is now holding a special meeting after the speech.

Above: Abdelkader Bansallah (1941 – 2021)

The dramatic intervention by the armed forces chief of staff is the latest development after weeks of sustained protest in Algeria.

Earlier in March 2019, Prime Minister Ahmed Ouyahia announced his resignation and was replaced by Interior Minister Noureddine Bedoui.

Above: Ahmed Ouyahia

Above: Noureddine Bedoui

(The 2019–2021 Algerian protests, also called the Revolution of Smiles or the Hirak Movement, began on 16 February 2019, six days after Abdelaziz Bouteflika announced his candidacy for a 5th presidential term in a signed statement.

These protests, without precedent since the Algerian Civil War, were peaceful and led the military to insist on Bouteflika’s immediate resignation, which took place on 2 April 2019.

By early May, a significant number of power-brokers close to the deposed administration, including the former President’s younger brother Said, had been arrested.

The rising tensions within the Algerian regime can be traced back to the beginning of Bouteflika’s rule which has been characterized by the state’s monopoly on natural resources revenues used to finance the government’s clientelist system and ensure its stability.

The major demonstrations took place in the largest urban centers of Algeria from February to December 2019.

Due to their significant scale, the protests attracted international media coverage and provoked reactions from several heads of states and scholarly figures.)

Did the Algerian protests, the attack on the North Korean embassy in Madrid, flooding in Indonesia and Iran, or the attacks in Israel and Yemen have any affect whatsoever on the lives of Swiss Miss and her fellow travel companion from Argentina?

Doubtful.

Does a recounting of these events have any impact whatsoever on those who are reading this blogpost now?

Also doubtful.

Then why do I speak of these events three years and three months past?

To put things into context.

On a visit to Turkey, travel writer Rick Steeves met a dervish.

Above: Flag of Turkey

Above: Rick Steeves

Dervishes – a sort of Muslim monk – follow Rumi, a mystic poet and philosopher of divine love.

Above: Statue of Rumi, Buca, Izmir, Turkey

They are called “whirling dervishes“, because they spin in a circle as they pray.

The dervish allowed Rick to observe his ritual on the condition that he understood what it meant to him.

The dervish led Rick to his flat rooftop – a peaceful oasis in the noisy city of Konya – where he prayed five times a day.

Above: Konya, Turkey

With the sun heavy and red on the horizon, the dervish explained:

When we pray, we keep one foot in our community, anchored in our home.

The other foot steps around and around, acknowledging the beautiful variety of God’s creation…..touching all corners of this great world.

I raise one hand up to acknowledge the love of God.

The other hand goes down like the spout of a teapot.

As I spin around, my hand above receives the love from our Creator and my hand below showers it onto all of His creation.

As the dervish whirled and whirled, he settled into a meditative trance.

And so did Rick.

Watching his robe billow out and his head tilt over, Rick saw a conduit of love acknowledging the greatness of God.

The dervish was so different from Rick, yet actually very much the same.

This chance interaction left Rick with a renewed appreciation of the rich diversity of humanity, as well as its fundamental oneness.

Experiences like Rick’s can be any journey’s most treasured souvenir.

When we return home, we can put what we have learned – our newly acquired broader perspective – to work as citizens of our great nations confronted with unprecedented challenges.

And when we do that, we make travel a political act.

She can see by her watch, without taking her hand from the left grip of the cycle, that it is 0830 in the morning.

The wind, even at 100 km an hour, is warm and humid.

When it is this hot and muggy at 0830, she wonders what it is going to be like in the afternoon.

You see things vacationing on a motorcycle in a way that is completely different from any other.

In a car you are always in a compartment.

And because you are used to it you don’t realize that through that car everything you see is just more TV.

You are a passive observer.

It is all moving by you boringly in a frame.

On a cycle the frame is gone.

You are completely in contact with it all.

You are in the scene, not just watching it any more.

The sense of presence is overwhelming.

That concrete whizzing by five inches below your foot, the same stuff you walk on, it is right there, so blurred you can’t focus on it.

Yet you can put your foot down and touch it anytime.

The whole thing, the whole experience, is never removed from immediate consciousness.

Their plans are deliberately indefinite, more to travel than to arrive anywhere.

They are just vacationing.

Secondary roads are preferred.

Paved county roads are the best, state highways are next.

Freeways are the worst.

They want to make good time, but for now distance is measured with the emphasis on “good” rather than “time”.

When you make that shift in emphasis the whole approach changes.

Twisting hilly roads are long in terms of seconds but are much more enjoyable on a cycle where you bank into turns and don’t get swung from side to side in any compartment.

Roads with little traffic are more enjoyable, as well as safer.

These roads are truly different from the main ones.

The whole pace of life and personality of the people who live along them are different.

They’re not going anywhere.

They’re not too busy to be courteous.

The here-ness and now-ness of things is something they know all about.

It’s the others, the ones who moved to the cities years ago and their lost offspring, who have all but forgotten it.

Conned, perhaps, into thinking that the real action was metropolitan and all this was just boring hinterland.

It is a puzzling thing.

The truth knocks on the door and you say:

``Go away, I’m looking for the truth.”

And so it goes away.

Puzzling.


But once you catch on, of course, nothing can keep you off these roads.

You become real secondary-road motorcycle buffs and find there are things you learn as you go.

You learn how to spot the good roads on a map.

If the line wiggles, that’s good.

That means hills.

If it appears to be the main route from a town to a city, that’s bad.

The best ones always connect Nowhere with Nowhere and have an alternate that gets you there quicker.

The main skill is to keep from getting lost.

Unless you’re fond of hollering you don’t make great conversations on a running cycle.

Instead you spend your time being aware of things and meditating on them.

On sights and sounds, on the mood of the weather and things remembered, on the machine and the countryside you’re in, thinking about things at great leisure and length without being hurried and without
feeling you’re losing time.


We’re in such a hurry most of the time we never get much chance to talk.

The result is a kind of endless day-to-day shallowness, a monotony that leaves a person wondering years later where all the time went and sorry that it’s all gone.

What’s new?” is an interesting and broadening eternal question, but one which, if pursued exclusively, results only in an endless parade of trivia and fashion, the silt of tomorrow.

Instead, let us consider “What is best?’‘, a question which cuts deeply rather than broadly, a question whose answers tend to move the silt downstream.

There are eras of human history in which the channels of thought have been too deeply cut and no change was possible, and nothing new ever happened, and “best” was a matter of dogma, but that is not the situation now.

Now the stream of our common consciousness seems to be obliterating its own banks, losing its central direction and purpose, flooding the lowlands, disconnecting and isolating the highlands and to no particular purpose other than the wasteful fulfillment of its own internal momentum.

Some channel deepening seems called for.

Contrary to conventional wisdom, history is practical.

Yesterday’s history informs today’s news, which in turn becomes tomorrow’s destiny.

Those with a knowledge of history can understand current events in a broader context and respond to them thoughtfully.

As you travel, opportunities to enjoy history are everywhere.

Work on cultivating a general grasp of the sweep of history and you will be able to infuse your sightseeing with more meaning.

Travel, along with a sense of history, helps us better understand the world’s complexity.

News in modern times is history in the making and travellers are eyewitnesses to history as it unfolds.

But tourists rarely grasp what is going on or what happened where they are.

They are preoccupied with trivialities – forgotten camera batteries, a thirst for a Coke, complaints about the weather, the impossibility of coping with the incomprehensible.

Mainstream tourism does not encourage thought.

For many people – who I cannot and will not condemn, for they have worked hard for their well-deserved leisure – travel is only about having fun in the sun, shopping duty free, cashing in frequent flier miles.

But this is a distraction from the real thrills, rewards and value of travel.

Travel – life itself – should educate us, engage us with challenges, wherein the past helps us understand the present and the moment strengthens us for the future.

The more you know, the more you strive to learn, the richer your travels, your life, becomes.

We must somehow figure out how to be a dominion, a democracy, of intellect.

Knowledge must sit in the homes and the heads of individuals with no ambition to control others or to sit up in the isolated seats of power.

Only if the adventures of knowing and understanding are shared as widely as possible is civilization truly viable.

In the end, the goal is not an aristocracy of experts on whom we must depend, but on them and ourselves.

We make true progress when we are engaged with what we have set for ourselves to do.

Each of us should welcome knowledge and understanding, so we can one day make the finest contribution our talents and efforts can fashion.

One has to admire Vietnam – despite, or perhaps because of, its tumultuous history – for it is a resilient nation.

It is a land of emerald paddy fields and white sandy beaches, of cities of choas and sanctuaries of silence, of caves deep and mountains lofty.

Visitors are met with warmth and curiosity and a hunger for connectiveness.

The land has seen such darkness and yet its fire is never diminished.

It is a mere 48 minutes / 30 km from Ninh Binh to Phat Diem, so for those for wheels it is not a major bother to tear oneself away from Highway 1 hellbent for HCMC (Ho Chi Minh City).

Detours and diversions are the point of travel, not the distances nor the destinations.

Above: National Highway #1, Vietnam

In 1821, King Minh Mang travelled to the North to visit Ngoc My Nhan Mountain and had these words engraved on the cliff:

Building a small house to rest, when going up the mountain to see the pagodas and towers of the mountain, the masts of the river, the scenery is picturesque, bending down to wash the dusty clothes of life.

Above: Portrait of Minh Mang

Returning to the capital, King Minh Mang was interested in agriculture, and proposed a policy of reclamation including two forms of plantations and joint plantations. 

The entrepreneurs were immigrants who set up new hamlets. 

Above: Ngoc My Nhan Mountain

The King sent Nguyen Cong Tru to Ninh Binh to found a porcelain business and to recruit poor people to reclaim the coastal area.

Nguyen Cong Tru (1778 – 1858) was a politician, military man and poet during the Nguyen dynasty. 

He served as a mandarin through the reigns of Kings Gia Long (1762 – 1820), Minh Mang (1791 – 1841), Thieu Tri (1807 – 1847) and Tu Duc (1829 – 1883). 

Tru was distinguished by the reclamation of people in North Vietnam.

He made many victories in suppressing the uprisings against the imperial court and in the Vietnamese – Siamese War (1841 – 1845).

Above: Statue of Nguyen Cong Tru made of bronze, located in the main yard of Nguyen Cong Tru Secondary School, Hanoi

By the end of 1829, Nguyen Cong Tru had cultivated 14,620 acres of land and settled 1,268 people, creating a land that was stable.

King Minh Mang established a new district named Kim Son (golden forest). 

Nguyen Cong Tru also created a dense population cluster in the district of Phat Diem:

The birthplace of beauty.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

According to Nguyen Cong Tru, when he passed through Ninh Binh Province, he discovered that Canh Dieu Mountain looks like a picture of a naked girl lying on her back looking at the immense sky and clouds, facing the East Sea, so he named the district Phat Diem:

The place where the beauty emanates.

Phat Diem tile-roofed bridge is a unique construction, which has been printed on Vietnamese postage stamps. 

The bridge is located across the An River in the center of Phat Diem town. 

Phat Diem tiled bridge has the architecture of “upper communal house of Ha Kieu” meaning that the upper house is the communal house, the bottom is the bridge. 

Compared with five ancient tile bridges remaining in Vietnam, Phat Diem tile bridge has a rather large length, 36 metres, divided into three spans, each span has four compartments.

In addition to Phat Diem tile bridge in Kim Son, there are two tile-roofed bridges Luu Quang and Hoa Binh tile-roofed bridges both across the An River.

On both sides of Phat Diem tile bridge, there are two rows of railings and columns made of ironwood. 

On the bridge is the roof is covered with the traditional red tile of the Northern Delta. 

The walkway at both ends of the bridge has three steps. 

Compared with Hoi An Bridge Pagoda and Thanh Toan Tile Bridge, Phat Diem Tile Bridge has a light and elegant appearance, showing special creative talents.

This is considered a rare bridge and has high artistic value among the ancient bridges in Vietnam. 

The bridge has both a traffic function and an ancient roof.

Moreover, it is a stopover to avoid rain and sun, and a place for couples to date.

There is a folk saying “South Bridge, North Pagoda, Doai Communal House ” to praise the architectural beauty of ancient bridges in Son Nam, including Phat Diem Tile Bridge in Kim Son, Tra La Bridge in Ninh Binh City and the East Bridge in the ancient capital of Hoa Lu. 

Kim Son district was once a coastal marshy land.

Nguyen Cong Tru established a hamlet, dike, and sea encroachment in 1829.

The An River, flowing through Phat Diem town, is an irrigation project supplying water to irrigate the fields for the people.

This river was difficult for people to travel, so Nguyen Cong Tru built a bridge connecting the two banks of the An River. 

Initially, the bridge was built with the trunks of big trees, large wooden boards, and wide bridges to help people travel easily. 

Later, the bridge was damaged after a long time of use, so in 1902 this bridge was replaced with a tile bridge.

After nearly 200 years, Phat Diem tile bridge today still retains its original appearance.

Phat Diem Tile Bridge has been designated an Architectural Art Monument in 2018. 

Above: An River

Phat Diem Cathedral (commonly known as Phat Diem Stone Church ) is a Catholic church complex of about 22 hectares, located in Phat Diem town, Kim Son district, Ninh Binh province, about 120 km from Hanoi. southward. 

The complex of works here was built in 1875 and completed in 1899. 

The cathedral at the centre, now the cathedral of Phat Diem Diocese in North Vietnam, was completed in 1891.

The unique feature of these works is that the Catholic church is built entirely of stone and wood, according to ancient Vietnamese architecture, bearing the appearance of traditional communal houses, temples, pagodas and palaces. 

This architectural complex was gradually presided over by Father Peter Tran Luc, priest of the Diocese of West Tonkin since 1865 and a local community leader for more than 20 years.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

Peter Tran Luc ( Tran Van Huu) (1825 – 1899), also known by the nickname Sau , was a Vietnamese Catholic priest.

He was famous as a zealous missionary who started the construction of Phat Diem Cathedral.

Tran was born in My Quan village, Cao Vinh canton, Nga Son district, Thanh Hoa province. 

He was the second child in a family of seven children (five boys and two girls). 

At baptism, he was christened Peter. 

In 1840, he left his family to follow priest Tran Van Tieu as assistant priest at Bach Bat parish. 

In 1845, he was admitted to Vinh Tri Minor Seminary.

He was renamed Tran Van Triem to avoid having the same name with another seminarian. 

After graduating in 1850 and ordained as a Six (diacre) at Trang Vinh Tri church, in Ke Vinh, Nam Dinh, he was sent to practice in a number of parishes until 1855 when he was granted a missionary license.

Admitted to Ke Non Seminary to further his studies in Philosophy and Theology and to be ordained a Deacon.

Above: Father Peter Tran Luc

On the occasion of the French battleship Catinat entering the gate of Da Nang, Tran sent a letter to the Vietnamese court blaming them for killing the Catholic mission, arbitrarily bombarding the strongholds.

Above: Catinat class cruiser

Above: Da Nang and the Marble Mountains

In 1856, King Tu Duc became even more forceful in banning religion. 

In 1857, four consecutive decrees prohibiting religion were issued. 

Vinh Tri Minor Seminary was razed to the ground. 

Other Catholic institutions were also burned and destroyed. 

Above: Portrait of Tu Duc

On 13 July 1858, Tran was arrested and exiled to Lang Son. 

His younger brother, John Tran Van Phap (or Trut), was also exiled and died here. 

Above: Lang Son City, Vietnam

However, in January 1860, Tran was secretly summoned and ordained a priest by Bishop Jeantet Khiem, then the Apostolic Vicar of West Tonkin, and ordained a priest in Ke Xu (now Tu Chau parish, Lien Chau commune, Thanh Oai district, Hanoi. 

Due to many years of being a Six, he was often called Uncle Sau by parishioners, so he took the fake name Tran Luc to avoid revealing his identity. 

After that, he returned to Lang Son to govern the exiled parishioners here until 1862, when King Tu Duc issued a ban on religion, he was released.

After being released, he was assigned by Bishop Jeantet Khiem to take charge of the three lands of My Diem, Ke Dua, and Tam General. 

At that time, all three countries had only a small thatched church in Trung Dong village (now in Yen Nhan commune, Yen Mo district, Ninh Binh province). 

After he was in charge, the parish church was moved to Phat Diem. 

In 1865, he was appointed parish priest of Phat Diem by Bishop Jeantet Khiem. 

In 1871, he mobilized parishioners to build a small church with tiled roofs.

Above: Bust of Father Peter Tran Luc, Phat Diem

In 1873, Francis Garnier attacked Hanoi and occupied Nam Dinh, Ninh Binh, Hai Duong, and Hai Phong, causing the Tonkin Incident (1873). 

Above: Francis Garnier (1839 – 1873)

King Tu Duc sent Tran Dinh Tuc, Truong Gia Hoi, and two missionaries, Bishop Joseph Hyacinthe Sohier (Vietnamese name: Binh ) and priest Danzelger (Vietnamese name: Dang ) to Hanoi to negotiate with Garnier. 

He is said to have accompanied this delegation. 

The negotiation was not over yet, but Francis Garnier was ambushed by Black Flag troops at Cau Giay. 

Above: Paper Bridge, Cau Giay, Vietnam

Excited by this incident, Tu Duc immediately summoned the negotiating delegation back. 

Tran was personally rewarded by the King with money.

With the favour of the court, he embarked on the construction of a new church in 1875.

Although not an architect, he received and reconciled many schools of art to build a new church. 

The stone church is very massive and artistic, and as aforementioned it has a special style of its own to this day. 

He helped the French colonialists during the early French colonial period in Vietnam. 

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

In the book Dai Nam, Thuc Luc records Tran Luc’s support for the French as follows: 

In Phat Diem commune, in that county, there was Bishop Tran Luc who conspired with the French envoy.

He buried many parishioners and thousands of scoundrels, repeatedly stopping and arresting translators to rob official documents.

The military officers in the provinces had to follow the road through Nho Quan government to send official dispatches.

Above: Book of Dai Nam

In 1886, in response to King Ham Nghi’s decree of kingship, the Ba Dinh Uprising in Thanh Hoa broke out, led by Pham Banh and Dinh Cong Trang in Thanh Hoa. 

Above: Portrait of Dinh Công Trâng (1842 -1887)

In mid-December, the French army, consisting of 500 soldiers, supported by 80 mm cannons, organized an attack on Ba Dinh base, but was repelled by the insurgents. 

Above: Ba Dinh uprising insurrectionists captured

In early January 1887, when the French army organized the second attack, priest Tran Luc mobilized 5,000 Vietnamese parishioners to reinforce, helping the French army successfully destroy this war zone.

Father Tran Luc guided and helped Warrant Officer Hautefeuille capture Ninh Binh Citadel. 

Above: Ninh Binh Citadel

In addition, he also recruited 150 more soldiers to help Hautefeuille protect security.

Father Tran Luc was given a reward by the French government for his merits.

In 1901, Phat Diem Church was chosen as the Bishopric of Thanh Diocese, later changed to Phat Diem Diocese.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

Tran died on 6 July 1899. 

Before his death, he had a last wish to bury his body in the middle of the church’s entrance, so that people can walk and go over the grave

However, parishioners moved out of the way and made a protective barrier.

At his funeral, Thanh Hoa’s father, on behalf of Dai Nam’s court, and Ninh Binh’s envoy on behalf of the French Protectorate government attended and read the eulogy.

His tomb lies behind the bell tower.

His Cathedral was more than ten years in the preparation as stone and wood were transported from the provinces of Thanh Hoa and Nghe An, though it only took a mere three months to complete in 1891.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

There is an anecdote about priest Tran Luc making a sentence to Tran Hi Tan Tang, a man with a reputation for passing high marks, with good writing or words in the Nguyen court. 

The opposite of Tran Luc is written:

Three elderly people sit at one table, they are all regulars, they are not afraid of anyone!

This opposition is dangerous in that the word “grandpa” has many meanings, that is “afraid“, “even“, “enough“, all of which are mentioned in the opposite clause. 

Above: Tomb of Father Six

Tran Hi Tang, who was known as Tam Nguyen Vi Xuyen, quickly responded:

One path has no two roads, the way leads to thieves, the way also lies!

Above: Father Six

Father Tran Luc was questioned by Phan Dinh Phung, then the governor of Yen Khanh, and publicly beaten. 

Because of this, Phan Dinh Phung was punished by the court in the 31st year of Tu Duc. 

Above: Phan Dinh Phung (1847 – 1896)

Bishop John Baotixita Nguyen Ba Tong, when invited to give lectures in many places in Europe, praised Father Tran Luc as follows:

I am determined that there is no Vietnamese like Uncle Sau, who is the glory of this Tonkin Church, the joy of Phat Diem’s children, and the honour of our entire Indochinese nation.

Above: Bishop Nguyen Ba Tong (1868 – 1949)

Author Dao Trinh Nhat, in the book Phan Dinh Phung, the leader of the ten-year resistance war (1886 – 1895) in Nghe Tinh commented on priest Tran Luc as follows: 

Above: Author Dào Trinh Nhât (1900 – 1951)

Therefore, when he was the governor of Yen Khanh in Ninh Binh, Phan saw an old man who was self-righteous or religious, harassing the common people.

Phan did not hesitate to ask the soldiers to hold the cleric down, interrogate and hit him directly.

The priest who suffered the beating was Tran Luc, known as Old Sau.

A few years later, thanks to the French influence, Phan was appointed by the court as a royal enjoy with illustrious authority for a while in Phat Diem – Ninh Binh.

Be afraid.

It is said that Phan has the virtue of killing people like straw, no less than Ton That Thuyet.

Above: Phan Dinh Phûng Monument, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

The Church was built with the technical level and traffic conditions of the late 19th century.

Currently, Ninh Binh province and Japanese researchers are completing the dossier on the architecture of Phat Diem church to propose UNESCO to recognize Phat Diem church as a world cultural heritage.

Above: Logo of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

Phat Diem stone church is rated by the press as one of the most beautiful churches in Vietnam, is likened to “the Catholic capital of Vietnam“.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

Nguyen Van Giao, a guide serving the Church, said:

It is very true to say that this project resembles a pagoda.

Father Peter Tran Luc wished that, through this work, the nature of harmony and integration will be expressed through this work, between Catholicism and the nation’s architectural culture as well as the harmony between Catholicism and other religions in Vietnam, showing solidarity.”

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

  • Ponds and lakes:
    • A rectangular lake, about 4 hectares wide, surrounded by stone embankments, facing the road from Phat Diem town leading to the Church. 
    • In the middle of the lake is an island on which there is a statue of Jesus.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

  • Phuong Dinh : completed in 1899, is an architectural work 25m high, 17m wide, 24m long, consisting of three floors built of slate, the largest is the bottom floor built of green stone. 
    • On the top of the tower there are four statues of the four saints, which from the contours, posture to the lines of the clouds, make it easy to mistake them for the statues in Vietnamese temples. 
    • The stone arches are assembled to a sophisticated level. 
    • In the middle of Phuong Dinh, there is a cave made of monolithic stone, outside and inside are reliefs carved on stone with the image of Jesus Christ and saints with elegant lines. 
    • The second floor of Phuong Dinh hangs a large drum. 
    • The third floor hangs a bell 1.4m high, 1.1m in diameter, weighing nearly 2000kg.
    • The big bell in Phuong Dinh was cast in 1890 can be heard in the distant provinces of Nam Dinh, Ninh Binh and Thanh Hoa. 
    • The roof of Phat Diem church is not towering like a Western-style church, but an ancient curved roof like that of a communal house or a pagoda.

Above: Phuong Dinh, Phat Diem Cathedral

  • Cathedral :
    • The main church was inaugurated in 1891 with the title of Church of Our Lady of the Rosary, now the cathedral of Phat Diem. 
    • The large church is 74m long, 21m wide, 15m high, has four roofs and has five entrances under carved stone arches. 
    • In the Church, there are six rows of monolithic ironwood columns (48 columns), the middle two rows of columns are up to 11m high, 2.35m in circumference, each column weighs about 10 tons. 
    • The atrium of the Cathedral has a large altar made of a monolithic slab 3m long, 0.9m wide, 0.8m high, and weighs about 20 tons. 
    • The front and sides are carved with typical flowers of the four seasons, making the altar look like it is covered with a bright jelly-colored scarf. 
    • On both sides of the church there are four small churches with harmonious architecture, each with its own characteristics.

Above: Altar of Phat Diem Cathedral

  • The four small churches are independent chapels on either side of the large church:
    • Church of the Heart of Jesus (1889) – Northeast
    • St. Roco‘s Church (1895) – Southeast
    • St. Joseph’s Church (1896) – Southwest
    • Peter’s Church (1896) – Northwest

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

  • Three artificial caves in the north of Phat Diem church, about 100m apart, are made of different large and small stone blocks keeping their natural appearance. There are large statues on the caves.
    • Birthday Mountain : Originally named Burial Mountain , built in 1875, it is also the first work built on a very large scale for the purpose of testing the settlement of newly accreted soil. From 1954, it was renamed Birthday Mountain or the current Bethlehem Cave.

Above: Entrance to the Bethlehem Cave, Church of the Nativity, Bethlehem, Palestine

  • Mount Lourdes : Originally named the Garden of Gethsemane, built in 1896, from 1925 renamed Lourdes Cave.

Above: Garden of Gethsemane, Mount of Olives, Jerusalem, Israel

Above: Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes, Lourdes, France

  • Skull Mountain: built in 1898, originally the Cave of Bethlehem. In 1957, the statue of the crucified Lord was placed, hence the name Skull Mountain.

Above: Golgotha, a rocky escarpment resembling a skull, Calvary, Jerusalem, Israel

  • Stone Church : built in 1883, bearing the title Chapel of the Immaculate Heart of Mary
    • Located separately in the Northwest, this is the first church built in this complex, also known as the Stone Church because everything in this Church is made of stone, from the foundation to the walls and columns.
    • The inside is carved with many beautiful reliefs, especially the four precious carvings: pine, apricot, chrysanthemum, bamboo, symbolizing the weather and the beauty of the four seasons in a year. 
    • The lines depicting animals, such as lions and phoenixes, are incredibly vivid.

During the French War (1946 – 1954), the Catholic Church formed a powerful political group in Vietnam that stood virtually independent of the French administration, but also opposed to the Communists.

Above: Images of the French / First Indochina War

The then Bishop of Phat Diem, Monseigneur Le Huu Tu was outspokenly anti-French and an avowed nationalist, but, as his Diocese lay on the edge of government-held territory, the French supplied him with sufficient arms to maintain a militia of 2,000 men in returning for containing Viet Minh infiltration.

Above: Father Le Huu Tu

Tadeo Le Huu Tu (1897 – 1967) was a Vietnamese Catholic Bishop, whose episcopal motto was:

A cry in the desert“. 

He was considered the founder and leader of the Catholic Self-Defense Force in Phat Diem.

He is also considered the spiritual leader of Catholics who migrated to the South during the period of 1954 to 1967.

Above: Badge of Le Huu Tu

Le Huu Tu was born in Di Loan, Quang Tri province. 

When after his birth, Le Huu Tu did not cry, so his father was afraid that the boy would not survive, so he took him to a baptismal rite. 

As the rite was performed on the feast of Thaddeus, this saint was chosen to be Le’s patron. 

Above: Jude Thaddeus the Apostle

Le Huu Tu’s father, Le Huu Y was a good Confucian scholar, often referred to as “the Italian boss“, because he held the title of Boss in the Diocese’s executive board.

Above: Portrait of Confucius / Kǒng Fūzǐ (551 – 479 BCE)

Le’s mother was Ine Duong. 

His family had ten siblings (eight boys and two girls), two of whom died early.

Besides Le Huu Tu, who became a bishop, the Le family also produced two priests and two nuns. 

When he was a child, the boy Tu was less sick, had a talent for music and had a high and clear voice, so he was often involved in singing at Catholic festivals.

Due to his naughty habits, his parents did not appreciate Le Huu Tu’s religious ability compared to other children and even expressed disapproval of their son’s stubbornness.

Above: Le Huu Tu

According to the book Bishop Le Huu Tu and Phat Diem, 1945 – 1954 , from the beginning of February 1936, Le Huu Tu received the task of establishing a new religious house in Phat Diem. 

The first facilities of the monastery were a few thatched cottages and a plantation tile house that had been abandoned long ago.

When he arrived in the unspoiled Chau Son area, Tu carried only a cross, a rosary, 12 Vietnamese silver coins and 12 monks with him. 

Le Huu Tu and a group of monks worked together to renovate nature to build a cathedral. 

The ceremony of laying the first stone to build the Cistercian church of Nho Quan was in mid-February 1937. 

Above: Le Huu Tu

Living a life of asceticism, Abbot Le Huu Tu was no exception, he also worked hard, often going barefoot except when celebrating Catholic Mass (wearing sandals). 

His job was to cut rocks, hoe gravel, clear forests for farming, specialized in fertilizers and clean toilets. 

Above: Father Le Huu Tu

In early 1945, hearing that the Quynh Luu war zone of Vietnam was established for the purpose of anti-Japanese and anti-French resistance, Le Huu Tu secretly visited the area. 

Above: Flag of the Japanese Empire of Vietnam (11 March – 11 June 1945)

Although he talked many times with the leader of the war zone Nguyen Van Moc (later Chairman of Ninh Binh province), Father Tu still did not know that the Viet Minh were Communist. 

Above: Flag of the Viet Minh

He thought they were a political organization that brought together Marxists and was in dire need of support.

The selection of a new diocesan bishop was urgently conducted by Bishop John Baotixita Nguyen Ba Tong, the Diocesan Administrator. 

Realizing that Father Le Huu Tu was knowledgeable about the Diocese with 10 years of experience and was the head of the Cistercian order, Bishop Tong recommended Father Tu to the Holy See. 

On 11 July 1945, priest Le Huu Tu was appointed by Pope Pius XII as the titular bishop of Daphnusia with the post of Apostolic Vicar of Phat Diem Apostolic Vicariate, with the mission to build and develop the religious house.

Above: Pope Pius XII ( Eugenio Maria Giuseppe Giovanni Pacelli) (1876 – 1958)

When receiving this news, the Congregation was shocked and dismayed.  

He officially received his appointment on 19 July. 

On 22 July, a delegation from Phat Diem, including the Secretary of the Episcopal See, the Director and a professor of the Seminary, visited the new Bishop and officially presented the appointment letter. 

Surprised, the newly elected Bishop commented: 

The priests of Phat Diem made a big mistake, if not crazy, when they chose an ascetic who was only able to hoe and pick grass.” 

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

They discussed the program of the ordination, which had been set for October 29 of the same year. 

Later, when sharing the issue of appointing Bishop Phat Diem, Bishop Tu said that the reason he initially did not want to accept Phat Diem diocese was because he thought Phat Diem did not have excellent priests and parishioners and a Bishop without a good collaboration can do nothing, so it is better to refuse first. 

Le Huu Tu also expressed his desire to accept the position of Bishop of Vinh or Hué rather than the Diocese of Phat Diem.

Above: Vinh Cathedral

Above: Hué Cathedral

The newly-elected Bishop had many meetings with other bishops to campaign to avoid responsibility (as a bishop):

They all advised Le Huu Tu to obey the Holy See. 

On 6 August, newly elected bishop Le Huu Tu rode his bicycle into Hue to meet with the Apostolic Nuncio Drapier and after two hours of debate, he submitted to the Holy See’s will as Bishop. 

Above: Flag of the Holy See / Vatican City

On 1 October 1945, newly elected Bishop Le Huu Tu came to Phat Diem to introduce the Diocese’s clergy and parishioners with tens of thousands of attendees. 

Bishop Le Huu Tu invited only Vietnamese bishops to participate in the ordination ceremony. 

When his father-in-law, Bishop Peter Martin Ngo Dinh Thuc, was prevented by French secret police from attending the ceremony, Bishop Tu refused Hai Phong Diocese Bishop Antonio Colomer Le (a foreigner) to attend and assist in the ordination rite. 

Above: Peter Martino Ngo Dinh Thuc (1897 – 1984)

The ordination ceremony was held on 28 October 28 of the same year at Phat Diem Cathedral.

The ceremony vacated a position of auxiliary bishop because no bishop was chosen to take the place of Bishop Thuc. 

None of the foreign bishops attended the ordination ceremony for the newly elected Bishop. 

This was the first episcopal ordination ceremony after the Democratic Republic of Vietnam declared its establishment. 

Le Huu Tu was the 5th Vietnamese Bishop and one of only four Vietnamese bishops alive at this time.

Above: Inside Phat Diem Cathedral

The Government of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam sent a delegation to attend the ceremony and congratulate. 

The government delegation gave a congratulatory letter from President Ho Chi Minh to the new Bishop Le Huu Tu:

Congratulations to you, for this ordination has gloriously demonstrated your morality.

Congratulations to fellow Catholics because from now on you have a well-deserved leader.

At the same time, I am happy for our country because I am sure he will lead the Catholic compatriots to follow God’s example and sacrifice to strive to preserve the freedom and independence of the country.” 

Above: Ho Chi Minh (1890 – 1969)

On the occasion of Bishop Le Huu Tu’s Episcopal ordination (28 October 1945), the Vicar General priests and lay delegates in the northern and central dioceses of Vietnam held a meeting of the established the Vietnam Catholic Federation with the motto: 

God and the Fatherland.

Above: Vung Tau, Vietnam

Simultaneously with the celebration of the new Bishop, the distribution of gifts to the poor was also carried out. 

After the Bishop’s ordination ceremony, on 6 November, Bishop Le Huu Tu went to the North to meet Ho Chi Minh to thank the government delegation who had attended the Bishop’s ordination. 

President Ho welcomed him warmly and offered to invite Bishop Tu to the Government’s Supreme Advisory Council (after inviting former Emperor Bao Dai). 

Above: The North Vietnamese government, 1946

The President of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam also promised to return the favour and visit Phat Diem. 

Bishop Le Huu Tu accepted the offer to be an advisor, but only considered it a courtesy gesture. 

He continued the prepared path of action for independence, against Communism.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

After the official opening of Phat Diem diocese (1 October 1945), in the context of many difficulties, due to famine, and social turmoil, due to many changes in politics. 

In response to the situation, Bishop Tu established a program consisting of three specialized structures:

  • Diocesan Council
  • Commission Relief Committee (for relief and distribution)
  • Military Affairs Committee (administration of political, military and school affairs). 

The Main Military Committee then set up the first Catholic armed group, the Catholic Youth for National Salvation, presented and awarded the sword seal by Bishop Le Huu Tu on 18 October 1945. 

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

  

In circulation letters, Bishop Le Huu Tu officially established the Catholic Federation of Phat Diem Diocese in October 1946.  

In 1946 alone, Tu wrote 12 letters, two directives and two communiqués, in which on religious issues there are contents such as:

  • calling for the priesthood to love, harmonize and help
  • remind priests to take care of preachers
  • to correct the missionary work
  • to open a mission and to correct the Society of Saint Peter
  • promote devotion to the Blessed Sacrament and to Mary
  • establish the Catholic Federation and the diocesan test school 

 

During nearly a decade of direct management of the diocese of Phat Diem, Bishop Le Huu Tu never closed the seminaries and did not restrict those who wanted to follow the religious path in religious institutes. 

Up to 1953, Bishop Tu had ordained 43 priests, major seminarians increased from 40 to 80.

During this period, Phat Diem Seminary became a place to train seminarians from dioceses. 

He developed the Phat Diem Lovers of the Cross and unified the branches of the Lovers of the Cross in Vietnam.

In the field of education, Bishop Le Huu Tu maintained Tran Luc school and 48 Catholic schools, the total number of students was about 10,000 people. 

In October 1953, he sent 48 people including priests, seminarians, nuns and lay people to study in Rome.  

The Diocese had its own printing house, Le Bao Tinh, and the weekly newspaper Tieng Kieu

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

Due to its prestige, the Phat Diem area had higher security when the War recurred and many war victims came to Phat Diem to live. 

Of the 60,000 people who came to Phat Diem, half of them lived next to the Bishop’s Palace. 

Bishop Le Huu Tu suspended the construction of the Grand Seminary and the construction of Tran Luc School in order to take two plots of land and build 600 houses for displaced families. 

He also spent financial funds to repair Con Thoi Dike, in order to ensure crops and food to feed seminarians and refugees.

In difficult circumstances, Bishop Tu still organized religious activities:

  • going on pilgrimages
  • preaching on retreats
  • conducting missions
  • talking with parishioners. 

He solemnly organized the procession of the statue of Our Lady of Fatima in the Diocese. 

Above: Statue of Our Lady of Fatima, Chapel of the Apparitions, Fatima, Portugal

In addition to purely religious issues, he established a refugee camp to support people regardless of religion who are victims of war.

Above: Father Le Huu Tu

He wrote a total of 96 circulars, 15 directives and 20 communiqués on religious and life issues during the nine years of direct administration of Phat Diem (1945 – 1954). 

The contents of circulation letter No. 5 by Le Huu, 3 December 1945, mentioned the importance of election and election instructions, on the occasion of holding elections for the National Assembly of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam. 

In the letter, he assessed that the People’s Parliament has an important role for the country and affects both moral and religious, so Catholics and Catholic clergy cannot lack representation in the National Assembly. 

Le Huu Tu said that Catholics and minorities, if all believers go to the polls, only 25 – 30 members out of 300 members, should encourage Catholics as well as non-Catholics.

Catholics vote for Catholics, or Buddhists who are honest to create legitimate interests and protect legitimate interests. 

Realizing the importance of the election, Bishop Tu proposed a plan that the Catholic Federation and Catholic Church for National Salvation must use their abilities in the election. 

Above: St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City

General elections were held on 6 January 1946.

The Catholic side proposed four candidates and the Viet Minh Headquarters did the same. 

Both sides propagated and competed fiercely. 

Preliminary results announced showed that a consortium of four Catholic candidates won over most of the districts in the province, but in the official results of the province, only one Catholic candidate won, Ngo Tu Ha, and three Viet Minh candidates were elected. 

Above: Ngo Tu Ha (1882 – 1973)

Alleging that there was fraud in the election (one of the two coalitions must win completely), Bishop Tu sent a telegram protesting the results to the Government and prepared to protest against the results. 

The Government sent a reply telegram stating that there was a mistake in counting the votes and confirmed that Father Peter Maria Pham Ngoc Chi had been elected. 

Bishop Tu then allowed Father Chi to refuse this election.

Above: Pham Ngoc Chi (1909 – 1988)

President Ho Chi Minh went to Phat Diem to meet with Bishop Le Huu Tu in mid-January 1946 – an unannounced visit.

Bishop Tu and his priests promised to do their best to help the resistance war and national construction. 

President Ho commented that Bishop Tu is my friend and a wise leader of the Catholic compatriots.

During this visit, Ho Chi Minh asked Bishop Le Huu Tu to assume the position of Supreme Advisor to the Government. 

During the surprise meeting, Bishop Tu and President Ho talked in a private room, while the priests of Phat Diem gathered in the Bishop’s Palace living room.

Parishioners were mobilized to welcome President Ho. 

The people then brought President Ho and Bishop Le to the Opera House to celebrate. 

Above: Uncle Ho (left) and Father Le Huu Tu

In his reply, President Ho announced the appointment of Bishop Tu as an advisor. 

From then on, people called Le Huu Tu Duc Advisor

Above: Le Huu Tu and Ho Chi Minh

As an adviser, Bishop Le Huu Tu sought out President Ho Chi Minh to oppose him.

The Government signed a preliminary agreement with France on 6 March 1946.

During the meeting, Le Huu Tu said that nationalist and popular parties were blaming the Government for the sarcastic content and irony of the oath [to not show France] a declaration of independence. 

After receiving President Ho’s reply about the political situation, Bishop Tu affirmed that he trusted Ho Chi Minh.

This time. 

However, Le Huu Tu, after returning to Phat Diem, told the priests and the staff, that President Ho had sold out the country by making peace with the French to destroy the nationalist parties. 

With the desire to help these parties, Bishop Tu was disappointed that they were full of divisions and lack of consensus against the Viet Minh.

Above: Flag of France

Ho Chi Minh repeatedly corresponded with his advisor Le Huu Tu in 1946.

The communication between the two sides was good.

At least on the surface. 

Bishop Tu sent priest Nguyen Gia De to see President Ho off to France at the end of May 1946.

To protest against Ho Chi Minh’s signing of the Vietnam – France Temporary Treaty (14 September 1946), Bishop Le Huu Tu went to meet President Ho Chi Minh in his private rooms on 24 October 1946.

At this brief meeting, Le Huu Tu openly said that: 

If the government were to make mistakes again, I would mobilize the people to stand up.

Oppose. 

Above: Ho Chi Minh and French diplomat Marius Moutet shake hands after signing the Vietnam-France Temporary Agreement, 14 September 1946

The Bishop also asked President Ho about the issue of the National Guard troops occupying areas controlled by nationalist parties while he was in France, President Ho said he did not understand the situation because he had just returned to Vietnam and promised to make arrangements.

In areas controlled by the French, their propaganda declared that Bishop Le Huu Tu followed the Viet Minh, and the Viet Minh followed Communism. 

The Catholic Hun newspaper also identified the Viet Minh and stated that the current government was a Communist government, thus causing many misunderstandings leading to many mass organizations from other diocese.

Ho Chi Minh sent a cable on 17 October 1945 to US President Harry S. Truman calling on him, Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek, Premier Stalin and Prime Minister Attlee to go to the United Nations against France and demand France not be allowed to return to occupy Vietnam, accusing France of having sold out and cheated the Allies by surrendering Indochina to Japan and that France had no right to return.

Above: Harry S. Truman (1884 – 1972)

Above: Chiang Kai-shek (1887 – 1975)

Above: Joseph Stalin (1878 – 1953)

Above: Clement Attlee (1883 – 1967)

Ho Chi Minh dumped the blame on the VNDQQ for signing the agreement with France for returning its soldiers to Vietnam after he had to do it himself.

During the August Revolution following World War II, Vietnamese Communist revolutionary Hô Chi Minh, leader of the Viêt Minh Front, declared independence on 2 September 1945, from the Ba Dinh Flower Garden in Hanoi, announcing the creation of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam.

Above: Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Ba Dinh Square, Hanoi

Above: A copy of the original Proclamation of Independence of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam

Compatriots of the entire nation assembled:

All people are created equal.

They are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable rights.

Among these are life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness.

Above: The United States Declaration of Independence of 4 July 1776

This immortal statement was made in the Declaration of Independence of the United States of America in 1776.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

In a broader sense, this means:

All the peoples on the Earth are equal from birth, all the peoples have a right to live, to be happy and free.

Above: Earth, 7 December 1972, photograph by the crew of Apollo 17

The Declaration of the Rights of Man and the Citizen of the French Revolution made in 1791 also states: 

All men are born free and with equal rights, and must always remain free and have equal rights.

Those are undeniable truths.

Above: Declaration of the Rights of Man and the Citizen, 1789

Nevertheless, for more than eighty years, the French colonists, in the name of liberty, equality, and fraternity, have violated our Fatherland and oppressed our fellow citizens.

They have acted contrary to the ideals of humanity and justice.

Above: National symbol of the French Republic

In the field of politics, they have deprived our people of every democratic liberty.

They have enforced inhuman laws.

They have set up three distinct political regimes in the North, Center, and South of Vietnam in order to destroy our national unity and prevent our people from being united.

They have built more prisons than schools.

They have mercilessly slaughtered our patriots.

They have drowned our uprisings in bloodbaths.

They have fettered public opinion.

They have practiced obscurantism against our people.

To weaken our race they have forced us to use opium and alcohol.

Above: Map of Indochina, 1886

Above: Opium poppy

In the field of economics, they have fleeced us to the backbone, impoverished our people and devastated our land.

They have robbed us of our rice fields, our mines, our forests, and our raw materials.

They have monopolized the issuing of bank notes and the export trade.

They have invented numerous unjustifiable taxes and reduced our people, especially our peasantry, to a state of extreme poverty.

They have hampered the prospering of our national bourgeoisie.

They have mercilessly exploited our workers.

Above: Great Seal of French Indochina

In the autumn of 1940, when the Japanese fascists violated Indochina’s territory to establish new bases in their fight against the Allies, the French imperialists went down on their bended knees and handed over our country to them.

Thus, from that date, our people were subjected to the double yoke of the French and the Japanese.

Their sufferings and miseries increased.

The result was that, from the end of last year to the beginning of this year, from Quàng Tri Province to northern Vietnam, more than two million of our fellow citizens died from starvation.

Above: Map of the Japanese Empire at its greatest extent, 1942

Above: The famine in Vietnam, 1945

On 9 March 1945, the French troops were disarmed by the Japanese.

The French colonialists either fled or surrendered, showing that not only were they incapable of “protecting” us, but that, in the span of five years, they had twice sold our country to the Japanese.

Above: French colonial troops retreating to the Chinese border during the Japanese coup of March 1945

On several occasions before 9 March, the Viêt Minh League urged the French to ally themselves with it against the Japanese.

Instead of agreeing to this proposal, the French colonialists so intensified their terrorist activities against the Việt Minh members that before fleeing they massacred a great number of our political prisoners detained at Yên Bái and Cao Bâng.

Above: Flag of the Vietnamese Revolutionary Army, Yên Bái Mutiny, 10 February 1930





Above: Cao Bâng City, Vietnam

Notwithstanding all this, our fellow citizens have always manifested toward the French a tolerant and humane attitude.

Even after the Japanese Putsch of March 1945, the Việt Minh League helped many Frenchmen to cross the frontier, rescued some of them from Japanese jails, and protected French lives and property.

From the autumn of 1940, our country had in fact ceased to be a French colony and had become a Japanese possession.

After the Japanese had surrendered to the Allies, our whole people rose to regain our national sovereignty and to found the Democratic Republic of Vietnam.

Above: Japanese naval warrant officer surrenders his sword to Sub Lieutenant Anthony Martin in a ceremony in Saigon.

The truth is that we have wrested our independence from the Japanese and not from the French.

The French have fled, the Japanese have capitulated, Emperor Bao Dai has abdicated.

Above: Emperor Bao Dai (1913 – 1997)

Our people have broken the chains which for nearly a century have fettered them and have won independence for the Fatherland.

Our people at the same time have overthrown the monarchic regime that has reigned supreme for dozens of centuries.

In its place has been established the present Democratic Republic.

Above: Flag of North Vietnam

For these reasons, we, the members of the Provisional Government, representing the whole Vietnamese people, declare that from now on we break off all relations of a colonial character with France.

We repeal all the international obligation that France has so far subscribed to on behalf of Vietnam.

We abolish all the special rights the French have unlawfully acquired in our Fatherland.

The whole Vietnamese people, animated by a common purpose, are determined to fight to the bitter end against any attempt by the French colonialists to reconquer the country.

We are convinced that the Allied nations, which at Tehran and San Francisco have acknowledged the principles of self-determination and equality of nations, will not refuse to acknowledge the independence of Vietnam.

Above: The Big Three (Joseph Stalin / Franklin Delano Roosevelt / Winston Churchill) at the Tehran Conference (28 November – 1 December 1945)

Above: United Nations charter logo, San Francisco Conference, 25 April – 26 June 1945

A people who have courageously opposed French domination for more than eighty years, a people who have fought side by side with the Allies against the fascists during these last years, such a people must be free and independent!

For these reasons, we, the members of the Provisional Government of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, solemnly declare to the world that:

Vietnam has the right to be a free and independent country — and in fact it is so already.

And thus the entire Vietnamese people are determined to mobilize all their physical and mental strength, to sacrifice their lives and property in order to safeguard their independence and liberty.

Above: Emblem of Vietnam

The Việt Minh (“League for the Independence of Vietnam“), led by Communists, was created in 1941 and designed to appeal to a wider population than the Indochinese Communist Party could command.

Above: Flag of the Indochinese Communist Party

From the very beginning, the DRV regime sought to consolidate power by purging other nationalist movements.

Meanwhile, France moved in to reassert its colonial dominance over Vietnam.

After the Communist-led Việt Minh severely eliminated non-communist nationalist organizations, the First Indochina War burst out between the Việt Minh and the French in December 1946. 

Commenting on the outbreak of the Vietnam – France War on 19 December 1946, Bishop Le Huu Tu said that: 

The situation will be very difficult in the coming days because the French army will advance, while the Viet Minh will both retreat and suppress the nationalists.

National parties are getting weaker every day, so we at Phat Diem have to fend for ourselves.

Above: French Indochina, 1913

On the partisan issue, in 1946, Bishop Le Huu Tu repeatedly warned parishioners and clergy:

Beware of clever partisan propaganda supported by Bishop Tu and people claiming to be from different parties to entice Catholics.

Priests should be careful.

Christians should not be hasty to express what they believed, because the enemy’s trap of spying on attitudes of Catholics, asking for answers: 

Bishop Tu said he had tried to support those arrested for joining parties, asking priests to prevent people from joining anti-government parties.

Bishop Le Huu Tu also promoted the establishment of National Salvation Catholicism in parishes, abolished the tricolor flag and the dragon crystal flag, and removed a number of Western trumpet songs.

Above: Dragon crystal flag of the province of Vietnam

 

He also recommended that priests open popular academic classes to prevent the faithful from losing out. 

The Bishop of Phat Diem also noted other issues such as:

  • opening a Catholic private school
  • the Communist problem
  • the support of parishioners to join the relief committees for victims, soldiers and peacemakers
  • medical problems such as malaria

Above: Communist hammer and sickle symbol

When the French re-occupied Indochina, the Viet Minh Government moved to Viet Bac. 

Under the agitation of the French, along with the exuberance of the people, a number of conflicts broke out between laymen and the laity. 

In order to defuse conflicts and avoid adverse influences, President Ho Chi Minh repeatedly sent letters, as well as sent special envoys to resolve conflicts, trying to enlist the support of Bishop Le Huu Tu, as well as Catholics.

Above: Ho Chi Minh

Since late 1946, about 5,000 people had been arrested by the Viet Minh for alleged partisan activities and lack of resistance. 

Particularly, Catholics were arrested for holding the French and Long Tinh flags, some for being partisan, and for holding religious positions.

Faced with this situation, Bishop Le Huu Tu sent a letter to Ho Chi Minh requesting the release of innocent people. 

He assessed that the actions of arresting innocent people affected national unity, divided religion and provoked Catholicism. 

Above: Father Le Huu Tu

(Things would get worse…..

Land reform was an integral part of the Viet Minh and Communist North Vietnam.

The Viet Minh Land Reform Law of 4 December 1953 called for:

(1) confiscation of land belonging to landlords who were enemies of the regime

(2) requisition of land from landlords not judged to be enemies

(3) purchase with payment in bonds

The land reform was carried out from 1953 to 1956.

Some farming areas did not undergo land reform but only rent reduction and the highland areas occupied by minority peoples were not substantially impacted.

Some land was retained by the government but most was distributed without payment with priority given to Viet Minh fighters and their families. 

The total number of rural people impacted by the land reform program was more than 4 million.

The rent reduction program impacted nearly 8 million people.

Above: Rice field, Canh Dong, Vietnam

Executions and imprisonment of persons classified as “landlords” or enemies of the state were contemplated from the beginning of the land reform program.

A Politburo (executive committee of the Communist Party) document dated 4 May 1953 said that executions were “fixed in principle at the ratio of one per one thousand people of the total population“.

The number of persons actually executed by Communist cadres carrying out the land reform program has been variously estimated.

Some estimates of those killed range up to 200,000.

Above: Flag of the Communist Party of Vietnam

Other scholarship has concluded that the higher estimates were based on political propaganda emanating from South Vietnam and that the actual total of those executed was probably much lower.

Above: Flag of South Vietnam (1955 – 1975)

Scholar Edwin E. Moise estimated the total number of executions at between 3,000 and 15,000 and later came up with a more precise figure of 13,500.

Above: Edwin E. Moise (1918 – 1998)

Moise’s conclusions were supported by documents of diplomats from Hungary (occupied by the Soviet Union), living in Democratic Republic of Vietnam at the time of the land reform. 

Above: Flag of Hungary

Above: Flag of the Soviet Union

Author Michael Lind in a 2013 book gives a similar estimate of “at least ten or fifteen thousand” executed.)

Above: Michael Lind

Ho Chi Minh sent a central delegation to apologize and release those for whom Bishop Tu intervened, especially in the case at Van Hai. 

Within a week, Ho Chi Minh sent three delegations and two letters to Bishop Le Huu Tu. 

Having received a letter, dated 10 February 1947, from President Ho Chi Minh, Bishop Le sent a circular quoting two letters of the President, reminding Catholics to have patriotism and participate in the resistance war, that they must be wary of rumours because the Government’s policy on religion, especially with Catholicism, was clear.

Above: Ho Chi Minh

Catholics needed to show solidarity with non-Catholics. 

He advised priests not to talk about politics in the Church, to unite against the French, and to put partisan issues aside. 

Priests absolutely could not receive strangers without the Bishop’s referral, that they should pray for the country and for their compatriots to be free and happy soon. 

In order to avoid parties taking advantage of the name of Catholicism to operate for their own purposes and to show that Catholics enthusiastically participate in the resistance war, Bishop Tu strengthened the Catholic National Salvation Organization.

Above: Le Huu Tu

The Phat Diem area became a refuge for many displaced people after the Vietnam – French War broke out in December 1946 and those wanted by the Viet Minh. 

Receiving the news that Ngo Dinh Diem had been taken away by the Viet Minh, Bishop Le Huu Tu intervened to meet Ho Chi Minh for information and to request his release.

This request was met by President Ho. 

Above: South Vietnamese President Ngo Dinh Diem (1901 – 1963)

Because of the overwhelming number of displaced people, Le Huu Tu established the Evacuation Relief Committee on 13 February 1947. 

On 5 September 1947, Tong Viet Dung (real name Le Van Cuong), a Catholic cadre, was arrested by the Congregation.

Viet Minh police chased and arrested Dung. 

Receiving the news, Le Huu Tu drafted a letter to intervene, requesting the release of Dung and invited the chief police officer to discuss. 

The police said that Dung was detained because it was reported that he was a member of the anti-government Duy Dan Party. 

Above: Flag of the Dai Viet Duy Dán Populist Revolutionary Party (1943 – 1947):
The star symbolizes populism.
The three wings symbolize the universe, mankind and the nation.
The red background symbolizes struggle for independence. 
The white background symbolizes “cleanliness of the people“. 
The black background symbolizes freedom for Vietnamese people.

After Dung was taken, at dawn the next day he died.

His body was recovered on 7 September.

It was confirmed that he had multiple injuries, especially on the top of his head. 

According to the Catholic Headquarters, the officer pushed him into the boat and opened fire. 

According to the police, this man intentionally jumped out of the canoe to escape

The funeral ceremony for Dung was led by Bishop Tu on 8 September with the participation of a number of government officials and a large number of parishioners. 

Bishop Tu asked that weapons were not brought into the Church to ensure solemnity and peace for the funeral. 

During the funeral, a secret gun was shot from the Viet Minh government information room next to Bishop Le Huu Tu and then fired again (due to a conflict between the procession and the police). 

Outraged that the Bishop was assassinated, many people burst into the House of God with guns, beat the Viet Minh cadres with sticks and swords, tore up banners, books, posters, and smashed tables and chairs.

The Than Phong Battalion led Bishop Le and priest Doan Doc Thu, and three government officials into the guard post, then the Volunteers team brought them to the Bishop’s Palace. 

The National Guard intervened and restored order at 21:00 that day. 

The police and Catholics fought one another through the night of 9 September. 

According to a private newspaper in Hanoi, it was announced that the provocation and terrorist incident in Phat Diem had been caused by the Communist Government, and that Bishop Le Huu Tu had been assassinated. 

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

On the morning of 10 September, a report signed by Bishop Le Huu Tu was published.  

Le Huu Tu called on parishioners to open a novena to pray for peace and preserve the Diocese.

On 15 September, a delegation led by the Vietnamese government, Minh had a meeting with Bishop Le Huu Tu, saying that: 

The event was only a consequence of democracy in the embryo.

(There is a sad irony in how often the word “Democratic” is given in the titles of nations whose governments are democratic only in name.)

It was announced that President Ho Chi Minh would send a high-level delegation to present a mutually beneficial solution. 

Bishop Tu affirmed again that it was strictly forbidden for parishioners to join political parties.

Phat Diem was criticized for lacking the spirit of resistance. 

Because of these criticisms, Le Huu Tu and Phat Diem organized events to participate in the resistance such as:

  • opening classes and meeting with Catholic Youth for National Salvation
  • swearing an oath for the Catholic cadres of National Salvation
  • purchasing guns and armaments for the Catholic militia for National Salvation

Phat Diem Opera House became the military training center for this organization. 

In his memoirs, Bishop Tu stated that he must defend himself firmly in order to work with the Communist government.

Above: Soldier statue, Phat Diem

Bishop Tu asked to buy a gun.

President Ho instructed Defense Minister Phan Anh and Tu received permission, but there were no signed documents and oral permission.

Above: Phan Anh (1912 – 1990)

On the issue of buying guns, Hai Phong Bishop Gomez Le, after discussing with the Apostolic Nuncio Drapier, supported and lent 1,000,000 VND to buy guns.

Bishop Tu’s personal car was used many times to transport weapons and was not questioned, because of a letter of recommendation from the Chairman of the Ninh Binh Resistance Administrative Committee. 

Every time guns arrived, he informed the Administrative Committee and the police.

Unable to take advantage of Bishop Le Huu Tu, France wanted to spread the news that the Bishop had contacted France.

Bishop Tu responded that he never contacted France and did not ask for French guns. 

Because of Bishop Tu’s stubborn attitude, the French bombed Phat Diem.  

On the morning of 22 November 1947, the French twice attacked Phat Diem and Phat Diem’s ​​common house, the chapel of the Lecturer’s School. 

The attack damaged many facilities, killed 27 people and injured 32. 

Phat Diem area was organized into three military zones.

All of them are placed under the general command of the “Catholic Self-Defense Department“, led by Father Hoang Quynh as Commander-in-Chief.

Le Huu Tu often reminded people:

We only know how to serve God and the Fatherland.

We value justice, charity, the pursuit of happiness and peace.

But when the Communists come, we fight!

And when the colonialists come, we also fight!

By early 1949, Phat Diem maintained a stable situation, the population migrated to many places, civil, religious, and resistance activities took place in harmony. 

Above: Phat Diem

Bishop Le Huu Tu denounced the French:

The French soldiers, with extreme barbarism, destroyed everything, but nothing, including the Church.

Every year, nearly 300 churches had been bombed. 

Tu was classified by the French as “the most nationalist” and “the soul of the resistance against the French“. 

Therefore, the French colonialists found a way to divide Bishop Tu from his ability to resist. 

Bishop Le Huu Tu denied information from the Agence France Presse (AFP) news agency that the French operation was conducted because the Bao Dai government received a request from Bishop Le Huu Tu. 

He stated:

Never could I have had the idea of ​​calling the French army to save us from any danger.

I have had no contact with the Bao Dai Government.”

Above: Coat of arms of South Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh repeatedly called him “a close friend“, “a dear friend“.

Tu often corresponded with President Ho and collaborated with the Government of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam when sending priests to the field.

He is also credited with mobilizing parishioners to break the Tri Chinh Bridge to prevent the French army from marching in 1949. 

Bishop Le Huu Tu’s stance was against both the French colonialists and the communist Viet Minh. 

However, because the Viet Minh Front was the ruling organization in the resistance war against the French, Catholics “have to choose what they don’t want to choose,” according to priest Truong Ba Can, writing in the Catholicism and Nationality weekly newspaper. 

The diversion of Bishop Le Huu Tu, according to Dr. Nguyen Huy Thong, was the result of:

The mutually exclusive confrontation of ideological issues that both religion and life present are not easy to overcome at this time”. 

It can be clearly seen through his words to President Ho Chi Minh when they met in Phat Diem in early 1946:

“I and the Catholic people of Phat Diem united and thoroughly supported him in the resistance war against the colonialists.

France won independence and freedom for the Fatherland, but if you are a Communist, I will oppose you from this moment on.

Above: Communist symbol

(There are more ironies evident in the story of Vietnam, which, in truth, is merely a microcosm of the world itself:

The problems that haunt history are neither religion nor politics, but rather what is preached is rarely practiced.

Religion should not seek to take life, but instead show us how to live.

Communism is meant to share the world’s wealth not to render everyone poor except a chosen few.

Like “democratic“, “communist” is a misnomer used by governments to practice authoritarianism and autocracy.

Above: Countries of the world now (red) or previously (orange) having nominally Communist governments

Communism (from the Latin communis) (‘common, universal‘) is a philosophical, social, political and economic ideology and movement whose goal is the establishment of a society, a socioeconomic order based on the idea of common ownership of the means of production, distribution, and exchange —allocating products to everyone in the society.

It involves the absence of social classes, money, and the state.

Communism, while sometimes used as a synonym of socialism, is distinct from socialism.

Communists may say they seek a voluntary state of self-governance, but the means to this end is rarely voluntary for the vast majority caught by this movement.

What should be a libertarian approach of community, spontaneity and people’s self-governance is invariably corrupted by the desire of the revolutionary powers to enjoy the benefits of the same power that their defeated enemy once possessed.

Communism is commonly confused with the political and economic system that developed in the Soviet Union after the Russian Revolution. 

Communism as practiced by communist-in-name-only regimes is the polar opposite to the ideology that was based on the secular desire of humanity to achieve equality and social justice, and that promised a great leap forward into freedom.

True freedom is rarely achieved and for the most part remains reserved for rare individuals.

True freedom collectively is a fantasy at best, a threat at worst, for the freedom of a few usually comes at the cost of the loss of freedom of the many.)

Contrary to anti-colonial propaganda, Le Huu Tu was a fierce anti-colonial person. 

Until the late 1940s, he was successful in defending the Phat Diem – Bui Chu self-defense zone from both colonialists and Communists. 

Above: Flag of modern Vietnam

Whatever flaws Tu may have possessed, he strikes me as an example of what love of country truly is.

Love of country is not your country right or wrong.

Love of country is not blind obedience to the government right or wrong.

Love of country is akin to the love for one’s children, for though you may love them you may not always love the things that they do.

As a responsible parent you cannot remain silent when wrongdoing is practiced by those who will carry on in your stead.

The self-sacrifice of parents for progeny means the devotion of time, comfort and resources for the well-being of the future.

But governments who truly represent those they are supposed to nurture and protect are merely mystical mirages in a dry desert of abandoned hope.

If a government truly acts in a manner that benefits the people (rather than merely the members of that government) it is then worthy of allegiance.

If a government does not act compassionately and responsibly, then love of country demands speaking truth to power, even if it is a certainty that power rarely listens to the powerless.

Not all those who produce progeny are necessarily fit parents.

Just because we can produce children does not necessarily mean everyone should.

Just because someone wields power does not necessarily mean they have the wisdom to do so responsibly.

Entering 1950, the conflict on the Indochina peninsula took on the colour of the Cold War, the Democratic Republic of Vietnam increasingly linked with the international Communist bloc, both French colonialists and Vietnamese Communists were both wanted to control the Catholic self-defense zone. 

Above: Comintern (international Communism) logo

Caught in the middle, Le Huu Tu finally agreed to cooperate with the nation of Vietnam led by former emperor Bao Dai.

However, his conflict with the French colonialists remained the same. 

His nationalist spirit was even admired by Ho Chi Minh and the Communists.

Above: Le Huu Tu

However, in December 1951, the Viet Minh launched a major assault on the village and took it.

When paratroopers came in to regain control, the Viet Minh withdrew, taking with them a valuable supply of weapons.

Author Graham Greene was in Phat Diem at the time, on an assignment for Life magazine, and watched the battle from the bell tower of the Cathedral – later using the scene in his novel The Quiet American.

Above: Graham Greene, 1951

Henry Graham Greene (1904 – 1991) was an English writer and journalist regarded by many as one of the leading English novelists of the 20th century.

Combining literary acclaim with widespread popularity, Greene acquired a reputation early in his lifetime as a major writer, both of serious Catholic novels and of thrillers (“entertainments” as he termed them).

Through 67 years of writing, which included over 25 novels, he explored the conflicting moral and political issues of the modern world.

Above: Graham Greene, 1975

The Quiet American is a 1955 novel by English author Graham Greene.

Narrated in the first person by journalist Thomas Fowler, the novel depicts the breakdown of French colonialism in Vietnam and early American involvement in the Vietnam War.

A subplot concerns a love triangle between Fowler, an American CIA agent named Alden Pyle, and Phuong, a young Vietnamese woman.

The novel implicitly questions the foundations of growing American involvement in Vietnam in the 1950s, exploring the subject through links among its three main characters – Fowler, Pyle and Phuong.

The novel has received much attention due to its prediction of the outcome of the Vietnam War and subsequent American foreign policy since the 1950s.

Greene portrays Pyle as so blinded by American exceptionalism that he cannot see the calamities he brings upon the Vietnamese.

Above: The German professor Sieglinde Lemke argued that the Statue of Liberty “signifies this proselytizing mission as the natural extension of the US’ sense of itself as an exceptional nation.”

The book uses Greene’s experiences as a war correspondent for the Times and Le Figaro in French Indochina from 1951 to 1954.

He was inspired to write The Quiet American during October 1951 while driving back to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) from Ben Tre province, accompanied by an American aid worker who lectured him about finding a “third force in Vietnam“.

Thomas Fowler is a British journalist in his fifties who has covered the French War in Vietnam for more than two years.

Above: Michael Caine (Thomas Fowler), The Quiet American (2002)

He meets a young American idealist named Alden Pyle, a CIA agent working undercover.

Pyle lives his life and forms his opinions based on foreign policy books written by York Harding with no real experience in Southeast Asia matters.

Harding‘s theory is that neither Communism nor colonialism are proper in foreign lands like Vietnam, but rather a “Third Force” — usually a combination of traditions — works best.

Above: Brendon Fraser (Alden Pyle), The Quiet American (2002)

When they first meet, the earnest Pyle asks Fowler to help him understand more about the country, but the older man’s cynical realism does not sink in.

Pyle is certain that American power can put the Third Force in charge, but he knows little about Indochina and is recasting it into theoretical categories.

Fowler has a live-in lover, Phuong, who is only 20 years old and was previously a dancer at the Arc-en-Ciel (Rainbow) on Jaccareo Road, in Cholon.

Above: Do Thi Hai Yen (Phuong), The Quiet American (2002)

Above: Binh Tay Market in Cho Lon, Ho Chi Minh City

Her sister’s intent is to arrange a marriage for Phuong that will benefit herself and her family.

The sister disapproves of their relationship, as Fowler is already married and is an atheist.

So, at a dinner with Fowler and Phuong, Pyle meets her sister, who immediately starts questioning Pyle about his viability for marriage with Phuong.

Above: Do Thi Hai Yen (Phuong) and sister Miss Hei, The Quiet American (2002)

Towards the end of the dinner, Pyle dances with Phuong, and Fowler notes how poorly the upstart dances.

Above: Do Thi Hai Yen (Phuong) and Brendon Fraser (Alden Pyle), The Quiet American (2002)

Fowler then goes to Phat Diem to witness a battle there…..

Above: Phat Diem

From The Quiet American:

Above: Movie poster of The Quiet American (2002)

I wished I had never heard the rumour about Phat Diem, or that the rumour had dealt with any other town than the one place in the North where my friendship with a French naval officer would allow me to slip in, uncensored, uncontrolled.

A newspaper scoop?

Not in those days when all the world wanted to read about was Korea.

Above: Images of the Korean War (1950 – 1953)

A chance of death?

Why should I want to die when Phuong slept beside me every night?

But I knew the answer to that question.

From childhood I had never believed in permanence, and yet I had longed for it.

Always I was afraid of losing happiness.

This month, next year, Phuong would leave me.

If not next year, in three years.

Above: Do Thi Hai Yen (Phuong) and Michael Caine (Thomas Fowler), The Quiet American (2002)

Death was the only absolute value in my world.

Lose life and one would lose nothing again for ever.

I envied those who could believe in a God and I distrusted them.

I felt they were keeping their courage up with a fable of the changeless and the permanent.

Death was far more certain than God.

Above: God, The Creation of Adam, Michelangelo, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

With death there would be no longer the daily possibility of love dying.

The nightmare of a future of boredom and indifference would lift.

I could never have been a pacifist.

To kill a man was surely to grant him an immeasurable benefit.

Oh yes, people always, everywhere, loved their enemies.

It was their friends they preserved for pain and vacuity.

From the bell tower of the Cathedral, the battle was only picturesque, fixed like a panorama of the Boer War in an old Illustrated London News.

Above: Boers at the Battle of Spion Kop, 1900

An aeroplane was parachuting supplies to an isolated post in the Calcaire, those strange weather-eroded
mountains on the Annam border that look like piles of pumice, and because it always returned to the same place for its glide, it might never have moved, and the parachute was always there in the same spot, halfway to Earth.

From the plain the mortar bursts rose unchangingly, the smoke as solid as stone.

In the market the flames burnt palely in the sunlight.

The tiny figures of the parachutists moved in single file along the canals, but at this height they appeared stationary.

Even the priest who sat in a corner of the tower never changed his position as he read in his breviary.

The War was very tidy and clean at that distance.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

I had come in before dawn in a landing-craft from Nam Dinh.

We couldn’t land at the naval station because it was cut off by the enemy who completely surrounded the town at a range of six hundred yards, so the boat ran in beside the flaming market.

We were an easy target in the light of the flames, but for some reason no one fired.

Everything was quiet, except for the flop and crackle of the burning stalls.

I could hear a Senegalese sentry on the river’s edge shift his stance.

Above: Flag of Senegal, formerly a part of French West Africa

I had known Phat Diem well in the days before the attack – the one long narrow street of
wooden stalls, cut up every hundred yards by a canal, a church and a bridge.

At night it had been lit only by candles or small oil lamps (there was no electricity in Phat Diem
except in the French officers’ quarters), and day or night the street was packed and noisy.

In its strange medieval way, under the shadow and protection of the Prince Bishop, it had been the most living town in all the country.

Above: Graham Greene, Phat Diem, 1951

Now when I landed and walked up to the officers’ quarters it was the most dead.

Rubble and broken glass and the smell of burnt paint and plaster, the long street empty as far as the sight could reach, reminded me of a London thoroughfare in the early morn – after an all-clear:

One expected to see a placard:

Unexploded Bomb“.

The front wall of the officers’ house had been blown out, and the houses across the street were in ruins.

Above: Firefighters tackling a blaze amongst ruined buildings after an air raid on London, 1941

Coming down the river from Nam Dinh I had learnt from Lieutenant Peraud what had happened.

He was a serious young man, a Freemason.

To him it was like a judgment on the superstitions of his fellows.

Above: Logo of the Freemasons

The Bishop of Phat Diem had once visited Europe and acquired there a devotion to Our Lady of Fatima – that vision of the Virgin which appeared, so Roman Catholics believe, to a group of children in Portugal.

When he came home, he built a grotto in her honour in the Cathedral precincts, and he celebrated her feast day every year with a procession.

Relations with the Colonel in charge of the French and Vietnamese troops had always been strained since the day when the authorities had disqualified the Bishop’s private army.

Above: Grenade logo of the French Foreign Legion

This year the Colonel who had some sympathy with the Bishop, for to each of them his country was more
important than Catholicism – made a gesture of amity and walked with his senior officers in the front of the procession.

Never had a greater crowd gathered in Phat Diem to do honour to Our Lady of Fatima.

Even many of the Buddhists – who formed about half the population – could not bear to miss the fun, and those who had belief in neither God believed that somehow all these banners and incense burners and the golden remonstrance would keep war from their homes.

All that was left of the Bishop’s army brass band led the procession.

The French officers, pious by order of the Colonel, followed like choirboys through the gateway into the Cathedral precincts, past the white statue of the Sacred Heart that stood on an island in the little lake before the Cathedral, under the bell tower with spreading oriental wings and into the carved wooden cathedral with its gigantic pillars formed out of single trees and the scarlet lacquer work of the altar, more Buddhist than Christian.

From all the villages between the canals, from that Low Country landscape where young green rice shoots and golden harvests take the place of tulips and churches and windmills, the people poured in.

Above: Phat Diem

Nobody noticed the Vietminh agents who had joined the procession too, and that night as the main Communist battalion moved through the passes in the Calcaire, into the Tonkin plain, watched helplessly by the French outpost in the mountains above, the advance agents struck in Phat Diem.

Now after four days, with the help of parachutists, the enemy had been pushed back half a mile around the town.

This was a defeat:

No journalists were allowed, no cables could be sent, for the papers must carry only victories.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

The authorities would have stopped me in Hanoi if they had known of my purpose, but the further you get from headquarters, the looser becomes the control until, when you come within range of the enemy’s fire, you are a welcome guest.

What has been a menace for the État Major in Hanoi, a worry for the full Colonel in Nam Dinh, to the Lieutenant in the field is a joke, a distraction, a mark of interest from the outer world, so that for a few blessed hours he can dramatize himself a little and see in a false heroic light even his own wounded and dead.

Above: Modern Hanoi

The priest shut his breviary and said:

Well, that’s finished.

He was a European, but not a Frenchman, for the Bishop would not have tolerated a French priest in his Diocese.

He said apologetically:

I have to come up here, you understand, for a bit of quiet from all those poor people.

The sound of the mortar fire seemed to be closing in, or perhaps it was the enemy at last replying.

The strange difficulty was to find them:

There were a dozen narrow fronts, and between the canals, among the farm buildings and the paddy fields, innumerable opportunities for ambush.

Immediately below us stood, sat and lay the whole population of Phat Diem.

Catholics, Buddhists, pagans, they had all packed their most valued possessions – a cooking stove, a lamp, a mirror, a wardrobe, some mats, a holy picture – and moved into the Cathedral precincts.

Here in the North it would be bitterly cold when darkness came, and already the Cathedral was full:

There was no more shelter.

Even on the stairs to the bell tower every step was occupied, and all the time more people crowded through the gates, carrying their babies and household goods.

They believed, whatever their religion, that here they would be safe.

Above: Phat Diem Cathedral

While we watched, a young man with a rifle in Vietnamese uniform pushed his way through:

He was stopped by a priest, who took his rifle from him.

The Father at my side said in explanation:

We are neutral here.

This is God’s territory.

I thought:

It’s a strange poor population God has in his Kingdom, frightened, cold, starving.

Above: God the Father on His throne, Westphalia, Germany, late 15th century

I don’t know how we are going to feed these people,” the priest told me.

Above: Jesus feeding the multitude, Daniel of Uranc gospel, Armenian manuscript, 1433

You would think a great King would do better than that.

But then I thought:

It’s always the same wherever one goes.

It is not the most powerful rulers who have the happiest populations.

Little shops had already been set up below.

I said, “It’s like an enormous fair, isn’t it, but without one smiling face.

Above: Film poster, State Fair (1933)

The priest said:

They were terribly cold last night.

We have to keep the monastery gates shut or they would swamp us.”

“You all keep warm in there?”, I asked.

Not very warm.

And we would not have room for a length of them.

He went on.

Above: Interior of Phat Diem Cathedral

I know what you are thinking.

It is essential for some of us to keep well.

We have the only hospital in Phat Diem, and our only nurses are these nuns.

And your surgeon?

I do what I can.

I saw then that his soutane was speckled with blood.

He said, “Did you come up here to find me?

No.

I wanted to get my bearings.

Above: Michael Caine (Thomas Fowler), The Quiet American (2002)

I asked you because I had a man up here last night.

He wanted to go to confession.

He had got a little frightened, you see, with what he had seen along the canal.

One couldn’t blame him.

It’s bad along there?

The parachutists caught them in a crossfire.

Poor souls.

I thought perhaps you were feeling the same.

I’m not a Roman Catholic.

I don’t think you could even call me a Christian.

It’s strange what fear does to a man.

It would never do that to me.

If I believed in any God at all, I should still hate the idea of confession.

Kneeling in one of your boxes.

Exposing myself to another man.

You must excuse me, Father, but to me it seems morbid – unmanly even.”

Oh,” he said lightly.

I expect you are a good man.

I don’t suppose you’ve ever had much to regret.


I looked along the churches, where they ran down evenly spaced between the canals, towards the sea.

A light flashed from the second tower.

I said:

You haven’t kept all your churches neutral.”

It isn’t possible.”, he said.

The French have agreed to leave the Cathedral precincts alone.

We can’t expect more.

That’s a Foreign Legion post you are looking at.”

I’ll be going.

So long.

Goodbye, Father.

Goodbye and good luck.

Be careful of snipers.

Above: Phat Diem

I had to push my way through the crowd to get out, past the lake and the white statue with its sugary outspread arms, into the long street.

I could see for nearly three quarters of a mile each way.

Above: Phat Diem

There were only two living beings in all that length besides myself – two soldiers with camouflaged helmets going slowly away up the edge of the street, their guns at the ready.

I say the living, because one body lay in a doorway with its head in the road.

The buzz of flies collecting there and the squelch of the soldiers’ boots growing fainter and fainter were the only sounds.

I walked quickly past the body, turning my head the other way.

A few minutes later when I looked back I was quite alone with my shadow.

There were no sounds except the sounds I made.

I felt as though I were a mark on a firing range.

It occurred to me that if something happened to me in this street it might be many hours before I was
picked up:

Time for the flies to collect.

When I had crossed two canals, I took a turning that led to a church.

A dozen men sat on the ground in the camouflage of parachutists, while two officers examined a man.

Nobody paid me any attention when I joined them.

One man, who wore the long antennae of a walkie-talkie, said:

We can move now.”

Everybody stood up.


I asked them in my bad French whether I could accompany them.

An advantage of this war was that a European face proved in itself a passport on the field:

A European could not be suspected of being an enemy agent.

Who are you?“, the Lieutenant asked.

I am writing about the war,” I said.

Above: Alan Wood, war correspondent for the Daily Express, types a dispatch during the Battle of Arnhem, 18 September 1944

American?

Above: Coat of arms of the United States of America

No, English.

Above: Flag of England

He said:

It is a very small affair, but if you wish to come with us…

He began to take off his steel helmet.

No, no,” I said.

That is for combatants.

As you wish.

Above: Movie poster for The Steel Helmet (1951)


We went out behind the church in single file, the lieutenant leading, and halted for a moment on a canal bank for the soldier with the walkie-talkie to get contact with the patrols on either flank.

The mortar shells tore over us and burst out of sight.

We had picked up more men behind the Church and were now about thirty strong.

The lieutenant explained to me in a low voice, stabbing a finger at his map:

Three hundred have been reported in this village here.

Perhaps massing for tonight.

We don’t know.

No one has found them yet.

How far?

Three hundred yards.”

Words came over the wireless and we went on in silence, to the right – the straight canal, to
the left – low scrub and fields and scrub again.

All clear,” the lieutenant whispered with a reassuring wave as we started.

Forty yards on, another canal, with what was left of a bridge, a single plank without rails, ran across our front.

The lieutenant motioned to us to deploy and we squatted down facing the unknown territory ahead, thirty feet off, across the plank.

The men looked at the water and then, as though by a word of command, all together, they looked away.

For a moment I didn’t see what they had seen, but when I saw, my mind went back, I don’t know why, to the Chalet and the female impersonators and the young soldiers whistling and Pyle saying:

This isn’t a bit suitable.


The canal was full of bodies:

I am reminded now of an Irish stew containing too much meat.

The bodies overlapped:

One head, seal-grey, and anonymous as a convict with a shaven scalp, stuck up out of the water like a buoy.

There was no blood:

I suppose it had flowed away a long time ago.

I have no idea how many there were:

They must have been caught in a crossfire, trying to get back, and I suppose every man of us along the bank was thinking:

Two can play at that game.

I too took my eyes away.

We didn’t want to be reminded of how little we counted, how quickly, simply and anonymously death came.

Even though my reason wanted the state of death, I was afraid like a virgin of the act.

I would have liked death to come with due warning, so that I could prepare myself.

For what?

I didn’t know, nor how, except by taking a look around at the little I would be leaving.

The Lieutenant sat beside the man with the walkie-talkie and stared at the ground between his feet.

The instrument began to crackle instructions and with a sigh as though he had been roused from sleep he got up.

There was an odd comradeliness about all their movements, as though they were equals engaged on a task they had performed together times out of mind.

Nobody waited to be told what to do.

Two men made for the plank and tried to cross it, but they were unbalanced by the weight of their arms and had to sit astride and work their way across a few inches at a time.

Another man had found a punt hidden in some bushes down the canal and he worked it to where the Lieutenant stood.

Six of us got in and he began to pole it towards the other bank, but we ran on a shoal of bodies and stuck.

He pushed away with his pole, sinking it into this human clay, and one body was released and floated up all its length beside the boat like a bather lying in the sun.

Then we were free again, and once on the other side we scrambled out, with no backward look.

No shots had been fired:

We were alive:

Death had withdrawn, perhaps as far as the next canal.

I heard somebody just behind me say with great seriousness:

Gott sei dank.

Except for the Lieutenant they were most of them Germans.

Above: Flag of Germany

Beyond was a group of farm-buildings:

The Lieutenant went in first, bugging the wall, and we followed at six-foot intervals in single file.

Then the men, again without an order, scattered through the farm.

Life had deserted it – not so much as a hen had been left behind, though hanging on the walls of what had been the living room were two hideous oleographs of the Sacred Heart and the Mother and Child which gave the whole ramshackle group of buildings a European air.

One knew what these people believed even if one didn’t share their belief:

They were human beings, not just grey drained cadavers.


So much of war is sitting around and doing nothing, waiting for somebody else.

With no guarantee of the amount of time you have left it doesn’t seem worth starting even a train of thought.

Doing what they had done so often before, the sentries moved out.

Anything that stirred ahead of us now was enemy.

The Lieutenant marked his map and reported our position over the radio.

A noonday hush fell:

Even the mortars were quiet and the air was empty of planes.

One man doodled with a twig in the dirt of the farmyard.

After a while it was as if we had been forgotten by war.

I hoped that Phuong had sent my suits to the cleaners.

A cold wind ruffled the straw of the yard, and a man went modestly behind a barn to relieve himself.

I tried to remember whether I had paid the British Consul in Hanoi for the bottle of whisky he had allowed me.

Two shots were fired to our front, and I thought:

‘This is it.

Now it comes.

It was all the warning I wanted.

I awaited, with a sense of exhilaration, the permanent thing.

But nothing happened.

Once again I had “over-prepared the event“.

Only long minutes afterwards one of the sentries entered and reported something to the Lieutenant.

I caught the phrase:

Deux civils.

The lieutenant said to me:

We will go and see.”

Following the sentry, we picked our way along a muddy overgrown path between two fields.

Twenty yards beyond the farm buildings, in a narrow ditch, we came on what we sought:

A woman and a small boy.

They were very clearly dead:

A small neat clot of blood on the woman’s forehead.

The child might have been sleeping.

He was about six years old and he lay like an embryo in the womb with his little bony knees drawn up.

Mal chance“, the lieutenant said.

He bent down and turned the child over.

He was wearing a holy medal round his neck.

I said to myself:

The juju doesn’t work.

There was a gnawed piece of loaf under his body.

I thought:

I hate war.


The lieutenant said, “Have you seen enough?“, speaking savagely, almost as though I had
been responsible for these deaths:

Perhaps to the soldier, the civilian is the man who employs him to kill, who includes the guilt of murder in the pay envelope and escapes responsibility.

We walked back to the farm and sat down again in silence on the straw, out of the wind, which like an animal seemed to know that dark was coming.

The man who had doodled was relieving himself, and the man who had relieved himself was doodling.

I thought how in those moments of quiet, after the sentries had been posted, they must have believed it safe to move from the ditch.

I wondered whether they had lain there long – the bread had been very dry.

This farm was probably their home.

The radio was working again.

The lieutenant said wearily:

They are going to bomb the village.

Patrols are called in for the night.

We rose and began our journey back, punting again around the shoal of bodies, filing past the Church.

We hadn’t gone very far, and yet it seemed a long enough journey to have made with the killing of those two as the only result.

Above: Phat Diem

The planes had gone up.

Behind us, the bombing began.

Dark had fallen by the time I reached the officers’ quarters, where I was spending the night.

The temperature was only a degree above zero.

The sole warmth anywhere was in the blazing market.

With one wall destroyed by a bazooka and the doors buckled, canvas curtains couldn’t shut out the draughts.

The electric dynamo was not working.

We had to build barricades of boxes and books to keep the candles burning.

Above: Soldier with a bazooka

I played Quatre Vingt-et-un for Communist currency with a Captain Sorel:

It wasn’t possible to play for drinks as I was a guest of the mess.

The luck went wearisomely back and forth.

I opened my bottle of whisky to try to warm us a little.

The others gathered round.

The Colonel said:

This is the first glass of whisky I have had since I left Paris.

Above: Paris, France

A lieutenant came in from his round of the sentries.

Perhaps we shall have a quiet night,” he said.

They will not attack before four.”, the Colonel said.

Have you a gun?“, he asked me.


No

I’ll find you one.

Better keep it on your pillow.”

He added courteously:

I am afraid you will find your mattress rather hard.

And at three-thirty the mortar-fire will begin.

We try to break up any concentrations.”

How long do you suppose this will go on?

Who knows?

We can’t spare any more troops from Nam Dinh.

This is just a diversion.

If we can hold out with no more help than we got two days ago, it is, one may say, a victory.

Above: Modern Nam Dinh City

The wind was up again, prowling for an entry.

The canvas curtain sagged.

I was reminded of Polonius stabbed behind the arras.

The candle wavered.

The shadows were theatrical.

Above: Polonius (William Shakespeare’s Hamlet) behind the curtain, Jehan-Georges Vibert, 1868

We might have been a company of barn stormers.

Have your posts held?

As far as we know.

He said with an effect of great tiredness:

This is nothing, you understand, an affair of no importance compared with what is happening a hundred kilometres away at Hoa Binh.

That is a battle.

Above: Movie poster for Hoa Binh (1970)

Another glass, Colonel?

Thank you, no.

It is wonderful, your English whisky, but it is better to keep a little for the night in case of need.

I think, if you will excuse me, I will get some sleep.

One cannot sleep after the mortars start.

Captain Sorel, you will see that Monsieur Fowler has everything he needs, a candle, matches, a revolver.

He went into his room.

It was the signal for all of us.

They had put a mattress on the floor for me in a small storeroom and I was surrounded by wooden cases.

I stayed awake only a very short time – hardness of the floors was like rest.

I wondered, but latently without jealousy, whether Phuong was at the flat.

The possession of a body tonight seemed a very small thing:

Perhaps that day I had seen too many bodies which belonged to no one, not even to themselves.

We were all expendable.

When I fell asleep I dreamed of Pyle.

He was dancing all by himself on a stage, stiffly, with his arms held out to an invisible partner, and I sat and watched him from a seat like a music stool with a gun in my hand in case anyone should interfere with his dance.

A programme set up by the stage, like the numbers in an English music-hall, read:

The Dance of Love“.

Somebody moved at the back of the theatre and I held my gun tighter.

Then I woke.

My hand was on the gun they had lent me.

A man stood in the doorway with a candle in his hand.

He wore a steel helmet which threw a shadow over his eyes.

It was only when he spoke that I knew he was Pyle.

He said shyly:

I’m awfully sorry to wake you up.

They told me I could sleep in here.

I was still not fully awake.

Where did you get that helmet?“, I asked.

Oh, somebody lent it to me,” he said vaguely.

He dragged in after him a military kitbag and began to pull out a wool-lined sleeping bag.

You are very well equipped,” I said, trying to recollect why either of us should be here.

This is the standard travelling kit,” he said, “of our medical aid teams.

They lent me one in Hanoi.

He took out a thermos and a small spirit stove, a hair-brush, a shaving-set and a tin of rations.

I looked at my watch.

It was nearly three in the morning…..

Alden Pyle is the “quiet American” of the title.

A CIA agent working undercover, Pyle is thoughtful, soft-spoken, intellectual, serious, and idealistic.

He comes from a privileged East Coast background.

His father is a renowned professor of underwater erosion whose picture has appeared on the cover of Time magazine.

His mother is well respected in their community.

Pyle is a brilliant graduate of Harvard University.

He has studied theories of government and society, and is particularly devoted to a scholar named York Harding.

Harding‘s theory is that neither Communism nor colonialism is the answer in foreign lands like Vietnam, but rather a “Third Force“, usually a combination of traditions, works best.

Pyle has read Harding‘s numerous books many times and has adopted Harding’s thinking as his own.

Pyle also strives to be a member of this “Third Force“.

US military counter-insurgency expert Edward Lansdale, who was stationed in Vietnam from 1953 to 1957, is sometimes cited as a model for Pyle’s character.

In fact Greene did not meet Lansdale until after completing much of the novel.

According to Greene, the inspiration for the character of Pyle was Leo Hochstetter, an American serving as public affairs director for the Economic Aid Mission in Indochina who was assumed by the French to “belong to the CIA”, and lectured him on the “long drive back to Saigon on the necessity of finding a ‘third force in Vietnam.’”

Above> Edward Lansdale (1908 – 1987)

After successfully ending the left-wing Huk insurgency in the Philippines and building support for Magsaysay’s presidency, CIA director Allen Dulles instructed Lansdale to “do what you did in the Philippines in Vietnam“. 

Above: Flag of the Philippines

Above: Ramon Magsaysay (1907 – 1957)

Above: Allen Dulles (1893 – 1969)

Lansdale had previously been a member of General John W. O’Daniel’s mission to Indochina in 1953, acting as an advisor to French forces on special counter-guerrilla operations against the Viet Minh.

Above: John W. O’Daniel (1894 – 1975)

From 1954 to 1957, he was stationed in Saigon (HCMC) as the head of the Saigon Military Mission.

During this period, he was active in the training of the Vietnamese National Army (VNA), organizing the Caodaist militias under Trinh Minh Thé in an attempt to bolster the VNA, a propaganda campaign encouraging Vietnam’s Catholics to move to the south as part of Operation Passage to Freedom, and spreading claims that North Vietnamese agents were making attacks in South Vietnam.

Above: Flag of the (South) Vietnamese National Army

Above: Caodaist eye logo

Above: Trinh Minh Thé (1920 – 1955)

(Caodaism is a monotheistic, syncretic religious movement, officially established in the city of Tây Ninh in southern Vietnam in 1926.

The full name of the religion is Đại Đạo Tam Kỳ Phổ Độ (The Great Faith for the Third Universal Redemption).

Adherents engage in practices such as prayer, veneration of ancestors, nonviolence and vegetarianism, with the goal of unity with God and freedom from samsara (worldly concerns). 

Above: The “Holy See” temple in Tây Ninh is the centre of the main Caodaist church.

Estimates of the number of Caodaists in Vietnam vary:

Government figures estimate 4.4 million Caodaists affiliated to the Cao Đài Tây Ninh Holy See, with numbers rising up to 6 million if other branches are added.

However estimates vary.

The United Nations found about 2.5 million Cao Dai followers in Vietnam as of January 2015.

An additional number of adherents in the tens of thousands, primarily ethnic Vietnamese, live in North America, Cambodia, Europe and Australia as part of the Cao Dai diaspora.)

Above: Flag of Caodaism

Operation Passage to Freedom changed the religious balance in Vietnam.

Before the War, the majority of Vietnamese Catholics lived in North Vietnam, but after the operation the South held the majority, 55% of which were refugees from the North.

Lansdale accomplished that by dropping leaflets in the Northern hamlets stating that “Christ has gone to the South” and other leaflets showing maps with concentric circles emanating from Hanoi suggesting an imminent nuclear bomb strike on the Northern capital.

Above: Propaganda poster exhorting Northerners to move South:
Go South to avoid Communism.”
Southern compatriots are welcoming Northern brothers and sisters with open arms.

On 30 June 1954, Bishop Tu, along with 143 priests and 80,000 Phat Diem parishioners, migrated to the South. 

According to data from the book Vietnam History, Bishop Le Huu Tu emigrated with 119 priests who were in charge of 68 parishes, 46 major seminarians, and 145 minor seminarians. 

At the end of June 1954, the wave of emigration from Phat Diem began. 

Above: A North Vietnamese Catholic evacuee.
Catholics represented approximately 85% of the refugees in South Vietnam.

Bishop Le Huu Tu ordered the parishioners to gather in groups to support each other and let them settle in the areas of Binh Xuyen, Gia Kiem, Phuong Lam, Bao Loc, and Can Tho. 

He built a minor seminary in Phu Nhuan, the Lovers of the Cross in Gô Vàp (a district of HCMC), right after he emigrated to continue his pastoral programs. 

In the 1960s, Bishop Tu built Phat Diem retirement home in Go Vap and built a facility in Rome to create financial means to help Phat Diem Diocese. 

In South Vietnam, Bishop Le Huu Tu assisted parishioners and priests in finding a place to settle down. 

After the situation stabilized, he reopened religious activities. 

Above: Gia Dinh Park, Gô Vàp, Ho Chi Minh City

A few years later, Bishop Tu was appointed by the Southern Bishops Conference to be the Director of the newly established Catholic Center of Vietnam and as the General Chaplain of the Army of the Republic of Vietnam. 

He also held the position of Director of Catholic Charities. 

He held these positions briefly before joining the Second Vatican Council. 

During his participation in the Council, he lived at Phat Diem headquarters in Rome, building and developing the facility that later became Foyer Phat Diem

Above: St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City – Hall of the Second Vatican Council (1962 – 1965)

Bishop Le Huu Tu also went to France to visit Vietnamese Cistercian monks (L’Ordre de Cîteaux) and received news of cancer.

Above: Abbaye de Cîteaux, France

Due to poor health, he retired to Chau Son Don Duong Monastery, a branch of the Cistercian Order of Phuoc Son. 

Then he went to retire at Phat Diem Nursing Home in Gô Vàp.

Above: Tombstone of Le Huu Tuu, Notre Dame Cathedral, HCMC

The Christmas festival at Phat Diem Cathedral is the biggest cultural event of Phat Diem Diocese parishioners as well as Kim Son people. 

About half a month before the festival, Phat Diem’s ​​parishioners begin to prepare for the most important day of the year for the followers. 

They spend their time on redecorating the Church for the upcoming holiday.

Christmas Eve takes place in cold weather.

The Bishop’s Palace of Phat Diem shimmers with colourful lights. 

The system of caves, pine trees, and luminescent stars create a unique and magnificent space. 

On the church grounds, Catholics prepare to attend Mass at the Cathedral. 

The Christmas ceremony in Phat Diem includes a vigil in front of the cave and Mass. 

At the end of the ceremony is a procession of flowers and a statue of the Child Jesus. 

The procession is conducted in a respectful and sacred manner. 

The meaning of this ritual is to receive the Lord into the hearts of the people. 

After this ceremony, the statue of God is brought inside the cave for parishioners to worship.

On the front stage between the communal house and the lake is the place where Christmas carols are performed to serve the people and visitors. 

At the end of the Christmas carol program, it is time to go inside the Cathedral.

Everyone prays together for a peaceful life, for peaceful and happy people. 

Christmas Day is an opportunity to give gifts to each other.

This is also an opportunity for parishioners to do charitable works, such as giving gifts to the poor, the homeless.

Children eagerly wait for the arrival of Santa Claus.

Family and friends invite each other to home parties.

During this Christmas time, Kim Son District Police coordinate with the Management Board of the Phat Diem Church to plan transportation, accommodation, and parking areas, and to place signposts to guide and separate traffic within the town.

Above: Christmas Eve, Phat Diem

There are moments when the traveller begins to question what the point of all the travelling has been.

As Heidi‘s scribe, there are certain moments in which I question the value of travel writing.

I know that it is important for the traveller to eventually return to where they came from, to write and try to capture the experience of being an outsider in an unfamiliar place, a stranger in a strange land.

Much of travel writing is soulless, transactional, with lists and charts and “if you go” advice.

Yet, at its most ideal, at its most powerful, the worth of the genre lies in exploring the tensions of our interior journey versus our exterior itinerary, in examining our expectations and hopes and biases of a destination versus the reality of what we found, in measuring the person we are at home versus the person we become abroad.

When I write the account of Heidi‘s journeys or my own, it is nearly impossible to convey the truth of the experience.

Some folks say that we are running out of places to go, that there are very few undiscovered places left in the world.

I disagree.

Each moment in time is a new discovery, each person’s experience lends significance to a place.

Part of the education of travel lies in seeing things with fresh and ignorant eyes – and in being wrong.

Which is why is it important to check in with the thoughts of the traveller from time to time, to retrace the journeys through the merest memories that remain vivid in the mind, to ask questions of where one has gone before.

Travel teaches that the things of the world are only ever temporary, as temporary and transient as the life of the traveller.

But perhaps the well-chosen word, the well-received account, can make an experience feel eternal, permanent, a fundamental fixture of the nature of existence.

To travel, to interact with and witness the world.

Life is a highway.

The world is a strange place, but no stranger than the stranger who explores it.

For the traveller knows that they may never walk this way again, and even if we do, the journey will never be precisely the same as the journey previous.

Travel is only ever about a moment in time and space, but it is also about how we choose to hold that moment in our memories.

Travel is both past and present, eternal and ephemeral, monumental and momentary.

How you travel, never mind what for, depends on who you are, the resources you have access to, what you look like, and how the world perceives your presence in it.

Travel is not the same for all of us.

The words I write of Heidi‘s experiences are far removed from the thoughts and feelings she may have felt, may continue to feel, when the mind’s eye recalls the places she has seen.

I can only imagine the interior universe she inhabits, so alien from my own, so separate from each other in terms of age, gender, personal histories, time and distance.

We speak of a common humanity, and yet each of us maintains a visceral defensiveness, a protective suspiciousness that individual identity demands.

Pleasure and discomfort exist simultaneously, but the latter is ignored in favour of the former.

The Vietnam I share with you is not necessarily the ‘Nam she knew.

I will never have a camera inside her head nor a record of the thoughts her mind produces nor a register of the feelings her heart generates.

Above: Jim Carrey (Truman Burbank), The Truman Show (1998)

Can a man ever understand the complexity of Woman, so torn between the animal hedonistic emotional and the calculating multitasking computer practical?

So I write what I read and I make educated guesses of what a person might feel in situations that present themselves.

Did Heidi travel to Phat Diem?

I don’t know for sure.

Above: Phát Diêm

Perhaps Heidi herself no longer remembers, for she has travelled so much and so far that the memory of the cathedral of Phat Diem may have become lost in the tangible tangle of thoughts of the temples of Thailand, the mosques of Morocco, the beaches of the Middle East and Mexico, and adventures in Central and South America that followed.

Above: Flag of Thailand

Above: Flag of Morocco

Above: Flag of Egypt

Above: Flag of Israel

Above: Flag of Mexico

I know of the starts and stops of her Pilgrim’s Progress, but I know not the method nor madness of the meandering between them.

I can only guess, and hope, that places that caught my eye in my research also caught her eye in her travels.

Phat Diem, to me, seems simultaneously a symbol of both the worst and the best of humanity, its ugliness and its beauty.

I know not if Heidi, had she visited Phat Diem, knew all, of which I have written, about the place during her sojourn there.

She is a well-educated woman, well-travelled, well-read, well-seasoned.

But did she know of Father Six and Monseigneur Tu and Graham Greene?

Would this have mattered to her if she had?

Would a woman view a landscape, as Nguyen Cong Tru saw Phat Diem, as resembling the form of another naked woman?

Doubtful.

Certainly I don’t know the history and personalities of all the places I have visited.

Certainly I don’t see phallic symbology in tall buildings nor vaginal valleys in the volume of canyons.

Perhaps we assign significance and beauty where we wish to see it, much like the intimate partner is given a glory of body and spirit that they may not actually possess.

Continue south down the coast.

Thanh Hóa is the capital and historical centre of politics, economy, culture, education and entertainment of Thanh Hóa Province.

The city is situated in the east of the province on the Ma River (Sông Mã), about 150 kilometers (93 miles) south of Hanoi and 1,560 kilometers (969 miles) north of Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC).

Thanh Hóa is located in centre of a plain with many scattered rocky mountains surrounding the city.

There are two main mountains: Hàm Rồng and Mật Sơn.

Hàm Rồng Mountain begins in Thiệu Dương commune, which is about 8 km from the city centre, along the right bank of the Ma River to Hàm Rồng Thanh Hóa Bridge pier.

Above: Le Loi Avenue, Thanh Hoa

The Thanh Hóa Bridge, spanning the Song Ma River, is situated 3 miles (4.8 km) northeast of Thanh Hóa.

The Vietnamese gave it the nickname Hàm Rồng (Dragon’s Jaw).

In 1965 during the Vietnam War, it was the objective of many attacks by US Air Force and US Navy aircraft which would fail to destroy the bridge until 1972, even after hundreds of attacks.

The bridge was restored in 1973.

As of 2016, the bridge still stands.

Above: The Thanh Hóa Bridge today

Originally built by the French during the colonial era in Vietnam, the Thanh Hóa bridge was sabotaged by the Viet Minh in 1945.

From 1957, the Vietnamese started rebuilding it.

Allowing the passage of both road and rail traffic, it was a vital link between different regions of North Vietnam, and when the War started, became a strategic passage for supplies and reinforcements sent to the Viet Cong fighting in South Vietnam.

In their first air combat, a small force of seemingly mismatched MiG-17s inflicted significant losses on much larger and more advanced American F-105 Thunderchief at a cost of three of their own, with an F-100 Super Sabre claiming the first probable American kill of the conflict.

The encounter led to significant changes in American tactics and training, and a return to dog-fighting in air combat doctrine.

Eventually, in 1972, the bridge was destroyed by USAF F-4 Phantoms using laser-guided bombs and US Navy Vought A-7s with advanced and conventional bombs.

Above: Thanh Hoa bridge after it was hit by laser-guided bombs

Ham Rông Mountain has 99 peaks and was a defensive entrenchment against the air attacks of Operation Rolling Thunder. 

Operation Rolling Thunder was the title of a gradual and sustained aerial bombardment campaign conducted by the US Second Air Division, the US Navy, and the Republic of (South) Vietnam Air Force (RVNAF) against the Democratic Republic of (North) Vietnam from 2 March 1965 until 2 November 1968, during the Vietnam War.

The four objectives of the operation (which evolved over time) were:

  • to boost the sagging morale of the Saigon regime in South Vietnam
  • to persuade North Vietnam to cease its support for the Communist insurgency in South Vietnam without sending ground forces into Communist North Vietnam
  • to destroy North Vietnam’s transportation system, industrial base, and air defenses
  • to halt the flow of men and materials into South Vietnam.

Attainment of these objectives was made difficult by both the restraints imposed upon the US and its allies by Cold War (1947 – 1991) exigencies, and by the military aid and assistance received by North Vietnam from its Communist allies, the Soviet Union, the People’s Republic of China and North Korea.

The operation became the most intense air/ground battle waged during the Cold War period.

It was the most difficult such campaign fought by the US since the aerial bombardment of Germany during World War II. Supported by its Communist allies, North Vietnam fielded a potent mixture of MiG fighter-interceptor jets and sophisticated air-to-air and surface-to-air weapons that created one of the most effective air defences ever faced by American military aviators.

This led to the cancellation of Operation Rolling Thunder in 1968.

The Ma River is the longest river flowing through the city, meandering around Ham Rong Mountain before flowing into the Southeast Asian Sea.

According to legend, the river water flows fast and powerful like a galloping horse, so is named Ma River. 

The river is the subject of the poem Tay Tien by poet Quang Dung (‘Sông Mã is far away, Tay Tien‘). 

Above: Ma River

Quang Dung ( Bui Dinh Diem) (1921 – 1988 ) was a Vietnamese painter, musician and poet, the author of a number of famous poems.

He belongs to the generation of northern poets who grew up and became famous after the August Revolution (1945).

His poem “Tay Tien” was loved by many people, was published and widely disseminated, and was loved by many people even in the South at that time. 

Although famous, he liked to live frugally and did not like to show off his name to anyone. 

When he received offers from the rich to compose poetry, he refused and said: 

Literature is so cheap?

His poem Tay Tien, with its bold heroic, tragic and romantic character, was chosen to be taught in the high school curriculum. 

Some of his poems have been set to music, such as Tay TienEyes of the Son Tay people, Ke stay, and especially the poem Can’t be titled have been set by four different musicians to music.

Typical works are:

  • Poems of the Red River (1956)
  • Que Huong Sea Forest (1957)
  • May Dau O (1986)
  • the short story Rice Flower Season (1950)
  • Memoirs of the Village of Battle Hill (1976)

Above: Quang Dung

Ma River is far away, Tay Tien!

Remember the mountains, remember to play with Sai Khao

Fog covered the tired army, Muong Lat 

Flowers come in the night slightly,

Steeping up a steep bend,

Pigs smoke alcohol, guns smell the sky.

A thousand feet up, a thousand feet down,

Whose house is Pha Luong 

It rains far away.

My sloppy friend doesn’t walk anymore,

Fall on the gun and forget about life!

In the afternoon, the majestic waterfall roared,

Muong Hich, the night and night tigers tease people.

Remember, Tay Tien, rice is on fire,

Mai Chau, the season I smell sticky sticky rice.

The camp was lit up with torches,

Behold, I’ve never worn my shirt.

The sound of the flute is manifold, she is shy,

Music about Vientiane builds poetic soul.

People go to Chau Moc that foggy afternoon,

Do you see the soul cleaning the shore?

Do you remember the figure on the single tree,

Drifting flood waters swaying flowers?

Tay Tien, the army does not grow hair,

The green army is fierce.

Staring eyes send dreams across the border,

Dreaming of Hanoi’s beautiful, fragrant night.

Scattered across the borders of distant lands,

Go to the battlefield without regretting the green life.

Ao dai changed mats, he returned to the land,

The Ma River roared a solo song.

Tay Tien who went without an appointment,

The way to the abyss is a split embryo.

Who went to Tay Tien that spring,

The soul of Sam Nua did not return.

Above: Ma River

Ma River was selected as the backbone to build a modern city on its banks.

In addition, there are five canals that were dug in order to support water supplies and to prevent drought and flooding.

Above: Canal outside Thanh Hoa

The Citadel of the Hô Dynasty was the capital of the Trân dynasty from 1398 to 1400 and the Hô dynasty  from 1400 to 1407.

The Citadel is a 15th century stone fortress in Thanh Hóa.

Tây Đô castle is rectangular in shape.

Above: Cóng Nam, Citadel of the Hò Dynasty

Its north – south side is 870.5 m (2,856 ft) in length and its east – west side is 883.5 m (2,899 ft) in length.

There are four gates:

  • the south fore gate
  • the north back gate
  • the east left gate
  • the west right gate

The southern gate is 9.5 m (31 ft) high and 15.17 m (49.8 ft) wide.

The castle was constructed from stone blocks, each of which is 2 × 1 × 0.7 m / 6.6 × 3.3 × 2.3 ft on average.

Except for its gates, the castle is mostly ruined.

The Citadel was inscribed on UNESCO World Heritage Sites on 27 June 2011.

The Thanh Hóa region was an area of popular support for Lê Loi (1384 – 1433) and the Lê dynasty in the 1580s, leading to the reestablishment of the southern court near the town following the withdrawal of Ming dynasty armies.

Above: Statue of Lê Loi, Thanh Hóa

Lê Loi was a Vietnamese rebel leader who founded the Later Lê dynasty and became the first emperor of the restored kingdom of Dai Viêt after it was conquered by the Ming dynasty.

In 1418, Lê Lợi and his followers in his homeland rose up against Ming rule, in the Lam Son Uprising (1418 – 1427).

Lê was known for his effective guerrilla tactics, including constantly moving on the wing and using small bands of brigands to ambush the regular Ming units.

Nine years later, his resistance movement successfully drove the Ming armies out of Vietnam and liberated the country.

Lê Lợi is among the most famous figures of Vietnamese history and one of its greatest heroes.

Above: Lê Loi statue, Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi

After 1945 the city was a stronghold of the Viet Minh.

In January 1946, the Viet Minh transported all local cells of the Việt Nam Quốc Dân Đảng (VNQDD/the Vietnamese Nationalist Party) (1927 – 1955) to the city.

During the Vietnam War (1955 – 1975), US strategic bombing destroyed much of the buildings and infrastructure.

The whole city has been totally rebuilt since then.

Above: Flag of the VNQDD

Thanh Hoa city has many kinds of cuisine with its own signature on the streets. 

The special dishes worth mentioning:

  • Nem chua (spring rolls)

  • Banh Khoai (pancakes containing celery, cabbage, dill, shrimp or eggs)

  • Shrimp cake (eaten with sweet and sour sauce)

  • Thanh Ha pagoda snails

  • Nam Ha bread 

In addition, in the city, one can also easily find specialties of other localities from across the province at traditional markets or shops.

To the north of the city is the Ham Rong Scenic Area, the central tourist area of Thanh Hoa Province, remembered in history books for its many historical and revolutionary relics.

Ham Rong Mountain, or Long Ham Mountain, formerly known as Dong Son, winds along the southern slope of the Ma River. 

The mountain range is flexible and consecutive like the shape of nine long undulating dragons, surrounded by immense pine hills and poetic valleys, finally rising to a high mountain and Long Quang Cave. 

The mountain is close to the river, where on the river bank there is a rocky outcrop shaped like a dragon’s nose, Long Tri. 

Near the water surface, there are two layers of rocks planted together like a dragon’s jaw, Long Ham. 

The full figure, viewed from the north, resembles a dragon’s head drinking water.

There are many beautiful landscapes: rivers, mountains, caves, such as:

  • Long Quang Cave

Long Quang Cave on Dragon Mountain is a scenic place that has attracted many people. 

Many writers had poems left in Long Quang Cave. 

On the cave, there are two doors on both sides, like two dragon eyes.

  • Hang Tien Cave

Around the foot of Ham Rong mountain, uphill along the steep stone steps about 30m is the entrance of Tien Son Cave. 

The Cave has three floors, often called Cave 1, Cave 2, and Cave 3.

Each cave has its own unique beauty. 

Here beautifully shaped stalactites are associated with legends and fairy tales.

Every cliff, every nook and cranny, sees everywhere hundreds of thousands of stories being born.

  • Phuong Mountain

  • Elephant Mountain

  • Dragon Mountain

  • Ma River  

Monuments such as:

  • the Temple of famous Generals Le Uy and Chu Van Luong

  • Dong Son ancient village with the famous Dong Son bronze drum

  • the Temple of Vietnamese Heroic Mothers and Heroic Martyrs, a very meaningful spiritual work

  • Truc Lam Ham Rong Zen Monastery

Opposite Ham Rong Mountain, on the north bank of the Ma River is Ngoc Mountain, also known as Chau Phong Mountain. 

From afar, the mountain looks like a dragon playing with a pearl.

To the south of the city is a beautiful landscape.

In its centre is Mat Son Mountain surrounded by other remnants such as:

  • Long Mountain

  • Tiger Mountain

  • Vong Phu Mountain

  • Dai Bi Pagoda

  • the Thai Temple of the Le Dynasty – a national historical and cultural relic of great national importance

In the center of Thanh Hóa City is the History Museum, which introduces visitors to the most general concepts of Vietnamese history and the unique cultural appearance of Thanh Hoa province.

I doubt Heidi lingered in Thanh Hóa nor diverted from the road on a quest for dragons, but rather she probably headed directly for nearby Sâm Son, for Heidi, being a woman from a northern land of mountains, gravitates towards the sun and the sea and the sand that Vietnam, even in March, famously offers.

Above: Sâm Son Beach

Going from Thanh Hoa City along Highway 47 to the east, looking to the southeast, you will see a large mountain range gradually appearing. 

That is Truong Le mountain range, towering and majestic.

The whole mountain range continually changes shape, sometimes soft and curved like a woman’s form, sometimes high and low undulating.

This is Vietnam, so it is no surprise that each mountain section is associated with different stories and legends for visitors to explore.

Sầm Sơn is a resort city, situated 16 km east of Thanh Hóa, on the shore of the South China Sea.

In 208 BC, Vietnamese King An Duong Vuong was tricked by his Chinese son-in-law Trong Thuy.

Trong Thuy had stolen the magic trigger of the King’s crossbow.

The Golden Tortoise had given the trigger to the King as a gift.

The trigger gave the crossbow extraordinary powers.

It was able to kill hundreds of people in a single shot.

Trong Thuy gave the trigger to his father Trieu Da.

Trieu Da led his Chinese army to invade Vietnam.

As his crossbow had lost its magic powers, King An Duong Vuong could not win the battle.

The King retreated with his daughter My Chau to the south.

Above: Statue of An Duong Vuong, Ho Chi Minh City

Local legend says that when King An Duong Vuong reached the location which is now Binh Hoa Village Quang Duong District, about 4km from Sâm Son Beach, he found himself completely cornered.

In front of him was the sea and behind him was the enemy.

In despair, he prayed to the Golden Tortoise to help him.

The Genie appeared and took the King to the Underwater Palace.

Above: Turtle statue, Cuong Temple, Dien An, Dien Chau, Nghe An

There is still a temple dedicated to King An Duong Vuong and Princess My Chau.

No one has ever seen the Golden Tortoise, but the land bears its shape very clearly.

Its hind legs are the two stretches of land pushing against the Truong Le Mountain.

Its head is another land stretch reaching as far as the Lach Hoi Estuary.

The Golden Tortoise is also called the Green Envoy, as this area is always green with trees.

Some distance from the shore is Truong Le Mountain.

It shields boats and beach from strong hurricanes.

The entire area is known as Sâm Son.

In the early days, Sam Son was only a collection of sun-baked sand dunes rising above long pools of blue water.

Before the 20th century, Sam Son City did not appear on any map of Vietnam.

Above: Sâm Son, 1905

The French colonial rulers began exploiting Sầm Sơn in 1906.

It became a famous place in what was then French Indochina.

At that time, many holiday villas were constructed here.

Above: Sâm Son

In 2007, Sầm Sơn celebrated the 100th anniversary of its establishment by organizing a Sầm Sơn Festival.

The Thanh Hóa provincial government invested US$375,000 to upgrade infrastructure along the sea, on water supply, lighting systems and an information network to prepare for the festival.

About 22 training courses were organized for 3,000 cyclists, cameramen, vendors and tour guides.

Above: Sâm Son

Sâm Son Beach is 6 km long, extending from the estuary of Lạch Hới to the foot of Trường Lệ Mountain.

Sam Son Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in Vietnam and is always the most crowded beach in the North. 

The coast here is flat with wide, soft sandy beaches, especially strong waves, though 100m away from the coast without worrying about flooding, with clear blue sea and moderate salt concentrations.

Every morning you can watch the sunrise, or visit the market to buy fresh seafood, such as crabs, shrimps, crabs, for famous dishes such as fish hot pot, snake hot pot, fish salad…..

For, like every self-respecting beach in Vietnam, there’s a corner reserved for fishing boats.

Above: Sâm Son

It’s not the sort of place that’s listed in Lonely Planet, and, fair enough, with hundreds of kilometres of beaches to choose from in Vietnam, you have to draw the editorial line somewhere.

Sâm Son Beach is what could be called a hyper-local tourism destination.

This is when a destination relies almost exclusively on visitors within a small catchment area.

Sâm Son is a popular beach destination, but it isn’t a nationwide travel hotspot.

Someone from Da Nang, Saigon (HCMC) or Can Tho wouldn’t travel all the way to Thanh Hóa just to go to Sam Son Beach.

You never see Sam Son advertised at travel agencies.

Above: Da Nang

Above: Notre Dame Cathedral, Ho Chi Minh City

Above: Can Tho

In 1981, Sâm Son only had ten hotels and motels belonging to government ministries and branches. 

In 2022, Sâm Son has now more than 700 hotels and motels with more than 20,000 standard rooms.

Most of the buildings look like they were built in the 1970s, eclectic concrete on beach front property.

New apartment towers continue to be constructed, but Sâm Son City has managed to retain some of its colonial buildings, albeit not in conspicuous locations.

Some of the back streets have some beautiful tree-lined streets that look like the old districts of Hanoi or Saigon.

In 2017, the FLC resort complex was inaugurated, changing the appearance of Sâm Son Beach. 

The project has a scale of 300 hectares with a total investment of more than VND 12,000 billion, including five-star hotels, golf courses, resorts, saltwater swimming pools, etc.

Currently, the project of Sea Square – Sâm Son’s newest high-class tourism, ecological, resort and entertainment urban complex of the Sun Group – has started construction with the aim of turning Sâm Son into a business centre, driving the local economy, turning tourism into a growth pillar of Thanh Hoa province. 

At the same time, the province continues to improve the infrastructure, especially tourism infrastructure, to turn Sâm Son City into the key tourist city of the country. 

Sun Group’s products will contribute to changing the face of the tourism industry, helping to attract more luxury and international tourists to the coastal city of Sâm Son.

I cannot decide if this is a good or a bad thing to wish for.

Due to its geographical location and limited transport options, Sam Son remains in a tourism blind spot that will likely keep it confined to this hyper-local market.

Before the advent of low cost airlines, flying to a beach resort destination wasn’t a viable option for most Vietnamese.

For a Hanoian it’s now just as easy to fly to Phu Quoc than to drive to Sâm Son.

Cities can of course reinvent themselves, so who knows what the future holds for Sâm Son.

Located on the top of the Truong Le mountain range in Sâm Son City, right next to Sâm Son Beach, Doc Cuoc is not only a beautiful temple but also a relic of Sâm Son. 

The Temple is very attractive to domestic and foreign tourists when they come to cool off and rest in Sâm Son. 

To get to the Temple, you have to climb 40 stone steps. 

n the Temple, there is a wooden statue of Doc Cuoc with only one arm and one leg. 

The statue’s legs are firmly planted on the boulder, the hand of the statue has a hammer in a swinging position to fight off sea demons. 

The temple has two bronze horse statues, a pair of monolithic statues, many parallel sentences praising the merits of the god Doc Cuoc.

Co Tien Temple is located on a beautiful, open location south of Truong Le Mountain, worshiping a daughter who worked as a doctor to save the world. 

According to an old legend, the girl disobeyed her father and married a poor man, so her father sent her away. 

The couple specialized in picking leaves to treat people in the area. 

Then one day, the couple dressed very well, walked hand in hand to the top of the mountain, and did not return. 

Since then, the house they lived in became Co Tien Temple. 

The temple was honored by a visit by Uncle Ho (Ho Chi Ming) in 1960.

It has been restored and repaired many times by the Ministry of Culture and Information.

It would be a shame if you come to Sam Son that you do not visit Trong Mai Island – a wonderful and meaningful experience. 

Hon Trong Mai is a famous scenic spot in Sam Son, associated with the legend of a faithful love, life and death, side by side of a young couple. 

Made up of beautiful shaped stones, three large stones stand naturally, a large flat stone is located below like a pedestal, a pointed stone is superimposed on top like a rooster, and the opposite island is smaller and shaped like a hen, such is Hon Trong Mai.

There is a story that these rocks represent a pair of husband and wife, who love each other passionately even when both have been transformed into birds. 

Above: Trong Mai Island

Sâm Son Church is not only a place of worship for parishioners, a place of peace for religious fishermen but also an important historical relic of Sam Son City. 

The Church was built in 1920, following French architecture style, in the middle of an open space with a large campus and many green trees, which brings the visitor a feeling of sacredness, purity and peace.

The Night Market is a tourist attraction, with a total area of ​​​​about 7,600 m2, with more than 200 stalls and two entertainment areas – an ideal destination for tourists who want to have fun and buy Sâm Son gifts.

Vo Market is a unique market on Sâm Son Beach. 

You should also try to get up early to go to this market at least once – not only to buy things but also to understand and feel the lives of the people here. 

Witness fishermen pulling their nets onto the wide beach, the market quickly forms for the fresh seafood. 

A very ordinary scene, very rustic, but also very different, and not found everywhere.

Red Pillar Market is a large shopping centre in Sâm Son. 

With a scale of more than 7,000 m2, the Market offers a wide variety of items, but mainly fresh seafood. 

You can also find and buy all kinds of Thanh specialties as souvenirs and gifts from your trip. 

Red Pillar Market is located right in the centre, near the beach where tourists play.

The amusement park is located on the main road of Sâm Son, so it is easy to find and convenient for visitors. 

Here, visitors are free to use recreational services, such as horseback riding, roller coasters, trams, right at the beach. 

Thrilling games attract the young.

FLC Sâm Son Beach and Golf Resort is currently the leading resort and entertainment in Vietnam. 

FLC Golf Resort is a popular destination for enthusiasts of this sport. 

This is an 18-hole golf course managed and constructed by the leading golf course management unit in the United States. 

In addition, FLC Sâm Son cultural and tourist complex is a leading resort with modern advanced facilities, indoor and outdoor entertainment areas, a four-season swimming pool, a villa area, a hotel area, a spa, and luxury restaurants.

It is classy and extravagant with 350 luxury rooms and the largest outdoor saltwater pool in Southeast Asia with a view overlooking the stunning Sâm Son Beach.

The Van Chai Resort has an area of ​​up to two hectares with unique architecture that mixes tradition and modernity. 

The Resort also has a beautiful natural space, very attractive to tourists. 

Located right on Sam Son beach and only 3 km from the city,

Van Chai Resort is very convenient for tourists to just relax.

And it is on the beach here at Sâm Son that I will end this portion of the tales of Swiss Miss, for the road ahead leads to Vinh, a place of pilgrimage beloved by Vietnamese and undiscovered by most foreigners.

A place that merits a blog post of its very own.

Above: Images of Vinh

The water is clear on the shore and the sand is soft with no rubbish to be seen anywhere.

So, let us wallow in the cool blue sea, listen to songs of the wave and the wind, and take a nap on the sunlight sandbanks and dream of sand castles.

I dream of women in itsy bitsy teeny weeny yellow polka dot bikinis and I smile.

I did not travel with Heidi in body, but for as long as these words endure I will have travelled forever in spirit.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / The Rough Guide to Vietnam / BBC, “Yemen War: 8 killed in air strike near Kital hospital“, 27 March 2019 / BBC, “Algeria army urges removal of President Abdelaziz Bouteflika“, 27 March 2019 / Graham Greene, The Quiet American / Euan McKurdy, CNN, “Grim search for survivors continues after floods kill 113 people in Indonesia“, 26 March 2019 / William Least Heat Moon, Blue Highways / Aritz Paria, AP News, “Spain: FBI offered data stolen in North Korea Embassy raid“, 27 March 2019 / Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance / Rick Steves, Travel as a Political Act / Louise Purwin Zobel, The Travel Writer’s Handbook

Canada Slim and the Love of Landscape

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Monday 20 July 2020

Think of this blog as a prologue.

It is named “Building Everest“, for it is here where I practice building something impressive (hopefully), my writing career.

Everest kalapatthar.jpg

Above: Mount Everest

On Monday (13 July) I phoned an old friend in Gatineau, Québec, Canada and we got to talking about our literary passions and ambitions.

Both of us in our 50s we have come to the realization that there are probably more years behind us than ahead of us, and there is no guarantee that the years that remain will necessarily be healthy years.

Happily, our creative projects do not conflict.

Gatineau downtown area

Above: Gatineau, Québec, Canada

He would like to write science fiction and fantasy similar to C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien.

Monochrome head-and-left-shoulder photo portrait of 50-year-old Lewis

Above: C(live) S(taples) Lewis (1898 – 1963)

Tolkien as a second lieutenant in the Lancashire Fusiliers (in 1916, aged 24)

Above: J(ohn) R(onald) R(euel) Tolkien (1892 – 1973)

I want to write novels and travel books similar to Charles Dickens and Paul Theroux.

Charles Dickens

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

Theroux in 2008

Above: Paul Theroux (b. 1941)

I miss my friend and Ottawa where our sporadic reunions usually take place and I wish we lived closer to one another and we could be like his literary heroes.

Centre Block on Parliament Hill, the Government House, Downtown Ottawa, the Château Laurier, the National Gallery of Canada and the Rideau Canal

Above: Images of Ottawa, Ontario, Canada (across the river from Gatineau)

Lewis, Tolkien and their friends were a regular feature of the Oxford scenery in the years during and after the Second World War.

From top left to bottom right: Oxford skyline panorama from St Mary's Church; Radcliffe Camera; High Street from above looking east; University College, main quadrangle; High Street by night; Natural History Museum and Pitt Rivers Museum

Above: Images of Oxford, England

They drank beer on Tuesday at “the Bird and Baby” (The Eagle and Child Pub) and on Thursday nights they met in Lewis’s Magdalen College rooms to read aloud from the books they were writing, jokingly calling themselves “the Inklings“.

The Eagle and Child.jpg

Above: The Eagle and Child, Oxford

Magdalen-may-morning-2007-panorama.jpg

Above: Magdalen (pronounced Maud-lin) College, Oxford

Above: The corner of the Eagle and Child where the Inklings regularly met

Lewis and Tolkien first introduced the former’s The Screwtape Letters and the latter’s The Lord of the Rings to an audience in this company.

Thescrewtapeletters.jpg

First Single Volume Edition of The Lord of the Rings.gif

As a English Canadian living in Deutschschweiz, I long for some sort of local creative writing club where I could share my writing worries and hopes in a way much like Lewis, in a letter to his friend A(lfred) K(enneth) Hamilton Jenkin (1900 – 1980), described the idyllic setting of his college rooms:

Above: Linguistic map (German, French, Italian, Rumansh) of Switzerland

The Story of Cornwall: A.K. Hamilton Jenkin: Amazon.com: Books

I wish there was anyone here childish enough (or permanent enough, not the slave of his particular and outward age) to share it with me.

Is it that no man makes real friends after he has passed the undergraduate age?

Because I have got no forr’arder, since the old days.

I go to Barfield (Owen Barfield) for sheer wisdom and a sort of richness of spirit.

Owen Barfield – AnthroWiki

Above: Arthur Owen Barfield (1898 – 1997)

I go to you for some smaller and yet more intimate connexion with the feel of things.

But the question I am asking is why I meet no such men now.

Is it that I am blind?

Some of the older men are delightful:

The younger fellows are none of them men of understanding.

Oh, for the people who speak one’s own language!

I guess this blog must serve this capacity.

So many ideas float through my mind and are captured in my chapbook.

(Normally, a chapbook refers to a small publication of about 40 pages, but I use this word in the context of a portable notebook where ideas are recorded as they spontaneously occur.)

Above: Chapbook frontispiece of Voltaire’s The Extraordinary Tragical Fate of Calas, showing a man being tortured on a breaking wheel, late 18th century

Just a sample:

  • Scaling the Fish: Travels around Lake Constance

Bodensee satellit.jpg

  • Mellow Yellow: Switzerland Discovered in Slow Motion

  • The Coffeehouse Chronicles (an older man in love with a much younger woman)

Above: Café de Flore in Paris is one of the oldest coffeehouses in the city.

It is celebrated for its famous clientele, which in the past included high-profile writers and philosophers

  • America 47 (think 47 Ronin meets Trumpian times)

Flag of the United States

  • 20th Century Man (think time travel)

The Time Machine (H. G. Wells, William Heinemann, 1895) title page.jpg

  • Lover’s Cross (a Beta male escapes his Alpha wife)

Jim Croce - Lover's Cross (1985, Vinyl) | Discogs

  • Alicia in Switzerland (Alice in Wonderland meets Gulliver’s Travels in Switzerland)

Alice in Wonderland (1951 film) poster.jpg

  • Love in the Time of Corona (though the title is reminiscent of Love in the Time of Cholera, the story is more about the virtues of faith, family and hope in periods of plague)

LoveInTheTimeOfCholera.jpg

  • Gone Mad (what is sanity and how is the world seen by those judged ill in this regard)

Above: Engraving of the eighth print of A Rake’s Progress, depicting inmates at Bedlam Asylum, by William Hogarth.

  • The Forest of Shadows (sci-fi that asks the question what if the past never dies?)

Above: Conifer forest, Swiss National Park

I have the ideas.

I believe I have the talent.

What is lacking is the ability to market myself and the discipline to be a prolific writer.

Still I believe that each day I am getting closer to the realization of my ambitions.

Doug And The Slugs - Day By Day (1985, Vinyl) | Discogs

One thing that inspires my creativity is my travels and sometimes even a drive through the country can be the spark that ignites my imagination.

Landschlacht to Flims (Part One), Thursday 28 May 2020

Transport of the mails, transport of the human voice, transport of flickering pictures – in this century, as in others, our highest accomplishments still have the single aim of bringing men together.” (Antoine de Saint-Exupéry)

Saint-Exupéry in Toulouse, 1933

Above: Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (1900 – 1944)

He and She

In a sense, it is travelling together that can make (or break) a relationship.

My wife and I don’t always live together harmoniously, but, generally, we travel well together.

Like any relationship with two (or more) people, harmony is possible once an understanding of who the other person is and what they like becomes clearer.

He said she said.jpg

My wife is an efficient German doctor who sets a goal and will not stop until it is realized, and for this she does have my respect.

I am the “life is a journey, not a destination dreamer in the relationship.

Life Is a Highway Tom Cochrane.jpg

I recall a bitter battle of poorly chosen words between us when on a journey between Freiburg im Breisgau (Black Forest of southwestern Germany) and Bretagne (on the Atlantic coast of France) we argued over efficiency over effectiveness.

I wanted to explore the regions between the Black Forest and Bretagne instead of simply rushing through them.

She, the driver, found driving through towns far more exhausting than sticking to motorways.

I, the passenger, wanted to see more than concrete rest stops where we wouldn’t stop and far-off fields we would never walk.

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Over the years we have come to an unspoken compromise.

We travel slowly to our travel destination and zoom home after our time there was complete.

Above: The Tortoise and the Hare“, from an edition of Caleb’s Fables illustrated by Arthur Rackham, 1912

On this day our journey in Switzerland (as of this day the borders around Switzerland were not yet open) wasn’t far by Canadian driving standards: a little over an hour and an half if we followed Highway 13 and Expressway 62 from Landschlacht in Canton Thurgau to Flims in Canton Graubünden.

Instead we opted to take the scenic route, avoiding as much as humanly possible heavily trafficked Autobahns, extending the journey at least another hour if we did not stop on the way.

Flag of Switzerland

I’ve no use for statements in which something is kept back, ” he added.  “And that is why I shall not furnish information in supprt of yours.

The journalist smiled.

You talk the language of St. Just.

Without raising his voice Rieux said he knew nothing about that.

The language he used was that of a man who was sick and tired of the world he lived in – though he had much liking for his fellow men – and had resolved, for his part, to have no truck with injustice and compromises with the truth.

His shoulders hunched, Rambert gazed at the doctor for some Moments without speaking.

Then, “I think I understand you,” he said, getting up from his chair.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

La Peste book cover.jpg

The Private Secret Language of Altnau

What I do know for certain is that what is regarded as success in a rational materialistic society only impresses superficial minds. 

It amounts to nothing and will not help us rout the destructive forces threatening us today. 

What may be our salvation is the discovery of the identity hidden deep in any one of us, and which may be found in even the most desperate individual, if he cares to search the spiritual womb which contains the embryo of what can be one’s personal contribution to truth and life.

(Patrick White)

White in Sydney, 1973

Above: Patrick White (1912 – 1990)

Heading east along Highway 13 from Landschlacht, the Traveller comes to Altnau (population: 2,244).

During the Lockdown (16 March to 10 May 2020) I often followed the walking path that hugs the shore of Lake Constance, north of both the Lake Road (Highway #13) and the Thurbo rail line, from Landschlacht to Altnau.

Visitors that zoom past Landschlacht often zoom past Altnau as well, as both Highway #13 and the railroad lie north of the town centre, so neither connection to Altnau is a boon to tourism or the economy as a whole.

Altnau remains for most people only a deliberate distant choice, which is a shame as the town entire has been designated as part of the Inventory of Swiss Heritage Sites, with a special focus on the town’s Reformed and Catholic churches and the Apfelweg (apple path).

Oberdorf Altnau

Above: Upper town, Altnau, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The Apfelweg, the first fruit educational path in Switzerland, is a nine-kilometre long circular route which explains with 16 signs everything you didn’t know you wanted to know about apples and apple production.

Understandably the Apfelweg is best done in the spring when the blossoms are on the orchards or late summer when the apples are ready to be harvested.

Apfelweg Altnau - Thurgau Tourismus

What can be seen by the lakeside visitor, even viewed from the highway or the train, is the Altnau Pier (Schiffsanlegesteg Altnau).

Completed in 2010, at a length of 270 metres, because of the wide shallow water zone, the Pier is the longest jetty on Lake Constance.

Altnauers call this jetty the Eiffel Tower of Lake Constance because the length of the jetty is the same as the height of the Tower.

Above: Altnau Pier

Notable people have formed the fabric of Altnau.

Hans Baumgartner (1911 – 1996), a famous (by Swiss standards) photographer was born here.

He studied in Kreuzlingen and Zürich and would later teach in Steckborn and Frauenfeld.

He would later sell his photographs to magazines and newspapers.

In 1937, Baumgartner met the Berlingen artist Adolf Dietrich who would feature in many of Baumgartner’s future photographs.

Adolf Dietrich.jpg

Above: Adolf Dietrich (1877 – 1957)

Baumgartner travelled and photographed Paris, Italy, the Balkans, southern France, North Africa and the Sahara, Croatia and the Dalmatian Coast, Burgundy, Spain, Portugal, Sweden, Finland, the US, Mexico, Belgium and Germany.

He also visited Bombay, Colombo, Saigon, Hong Kong and Yokohama.

He even photographed his spa visits in Davos.

Der Chronist mit der Kamera | Journal21

Above: Hans Baumgartner (1911 – 1996)

Altnau attracted the likes of composer-poetess Olga Diener (1890 – 1963).

Born in St. Gallen, Olga lived in Altnau from 1933 to 1943.

Diener, Olga Nachlass Olga Diener

Above: Olga Diener

In a letter to Hans Reinhart in June 1934, Hermann Hesse wrote about Olga’s work:

“I like Olga’s dreams very much.

I also love many of her pictures and their rhythms, but I see them enclosed in a glasshouse that separates her and her poems from the world.

That miracle must come about in poetry, that one speaks his own language and his pictures, be it only associative, that others can understand – that distinguishes the dream from poetry.

Olga’s verses are, for me at least, far too much dream and far too little poetry.

She has her personal secret language not being able to approximate the general language in such a way that the sender and recipient correspond to each other.

So I am privately a genuine friend of Olga’s and her books, but as a writer I am not able to classify them.

Hermann Hesse 2.jpg

Above: Hermann Hesse (1877 – 1962)

Besides Hesse, of the visitors Olga Diener had in her Altnau home, of interest is fellow poet Hans Reinhart (1880 – 1963).

Reinhart came from a Winterthur trading family, which allowed him the opportunity to lead a financially independent poet’s life.

During a spa stay in Karlovy Vary in the late summer of 1889, Reinhart read Hans Christian Andersen‘s fairy tales for the first time.

Andersen in 1869

Above: Hans Christian Andersen (1805 – 1875)

They deeply impressed Reinhart and he later transformed them into stage plays.

After his secondary studies, “Müggli” studied philosophy, psychology, German, art, theatre and music history in Heidelberg, Berlin, Zürich, Paris, Leipzig and Munich.

After completing his studies, he met Rudolf Steiner for the first time in 1905, whom he recognized as a spiritual teacher.

Reinhart later helped Steiner build the first Goetheanum and made friends with other anthroposophists.

In 1941 Reinhart brought his friend Alfred Mombert and his sister from the French internment camp Gurs to Winterthur.

Reinhart Hans, 1880-1963, Dichter - Winterthur Glossar

Above: Hans Reinhart (1880 – 1963)

Another of Olga’s Altnau guests was writer / poet Emanuel von Bodman (1874 – 1946).

Bodman lived in Kreuzlingen as a child and attended high school in Konstanz.

After studying in Zürich, Munich and Berlin, he chose Switzerland’s Gottlieben as his adopted home.

His home, like Olga’s, was the meeting point for many artists, including the famous Rainer Maria Rilke and Hermann Hesse.

Bodman wrote several dramas, short stories and hundreds of poems.

He was seen as a poet, storyteller and playwright in the neo-romantic, neo-classical tradition.

Emanuel von Bodman - Liebesgedichte und Biographie

Above: Emanuel von Bodman

I write about these members of a long-departed Dead Poets Society, whose works we have not read and might never read, to inspire us.

If writers, poets, artists and musicians can come from Here and their works be loved (at least in their times) then perhaps we too can rise above our humblest of origins and find such luck to inspire others.

Dead poets society.jpg

All of these wordsmiths and miracle scribes seem, without exception, all thick and heavy with each other.

And herein lies my weakness.

By temperament, I am more like the Americans Charles Bukowski and Eric Hoffer than I am like those one might call the litterati.

Charles Bukowski smoking.jpg

Above: Charles Bukowski (1920 – 1994)

Eric Hoffer in 1967, in the Oval Office, visiting President Lyndon Baines Johnson

Above: Eric Hoffer (1898 – 1983)

But there is the Internet – a potential tool I have yet to master.

Visualization of Internet routing paths

Above: Visualization of Internet routing paths

Today, hardly anyone knows the poet Olga Diener.

It almost seems as if her existence was as unreal as the tone of her poems.

She was once a very real phenomenon on Lake Constance where she had her permanent residence during the 1930s.

She had an exchange of letters with Hermann Hesse.

The poets Hans Reinhart and Emanuel von Bodman were among the guests at her annual anniversary celebrations (4 January) by candlelight.

Pin by Rine Ling on bokeh art photography | Candles photography ...

Otherwise she avoided the company of people with their too many disappointments and losses.

Her house “Belrepeire“, which she had planned herself, was a little bit away from the village.

Belrepeire” is the name of a city in Wolfram von Eschenbach’s poem “Parzival“.

Above: Statue of Wolfram von Eschenbach (1160 – 1220), Abenburg Castle, Bavaria, Germany

The poet was under the spell of the Grail myth.

Above: The Holy Grail depicted on a stained glass window at Quimper Cathedral, France

Olga found in the silence of her seclusion, the voice of her poems, which bore fairytale titles like “The Golden Castle” or “The White Deer“.

In this mystery game, a character named Blaniseflur sings the verses:

All the gardens have woken up. 

Dew fell from the stars and

Venus Maria walked through them with her light feet. 

Now flowers breathe the sky

And the Earth fulfills the dream

Received from spring night.

How a blackbird sings! 

The longing carries the swans

Swinging across the lake. 

The sun rises red from the water.

Light is everything.

Sunrise on the Lake Constance | Bodensee, in German. Konstan… | Flickr

The images Olga saw on long walks on the shores of the Lake, as she would have said, condensed into dreamlike structures, the form of which was often difficult to understand.

Even Hans Rheinhart, who made the only attempt for decades to critically appreciate Olga in the Bodenseebuch (the Book of Lake Constance) in 1935, did not understand her “private secret language“.

jahrgaenge 1935 - ZVAB

Olga was actually a musician.

For her there was no creative difference between writing and composing.

How musical her language was can immediately be heard when her poetry is read out loud.

Her words are full of sound relationships far beyond the usual measure, which Hesse described:

In your newer verses there is often such a beautiful sound.”

Music notes set musical note treble clef Vector Image

Olga wrote notes like other people speak words.

In the guestbook of Julie and Jakobus Weidenmann, she immortalized herself with a song instead of verses.

She was often a guest at the Weidenmanns.

Julie shared Olga’s natural mystical worldview, which was coloured Christian, while Olga tended to esotericism.

Julie’s first volume of poems is entitled Tree Songs, while Olga wrote a cycle called Rose Songs in Altnau.

Jakobus Weidenmann – Personenlexikon BL

Above: Jakobus and Julie Weidenmann

The seventh poem of Olga’s cycle contains her lyrical confession:

Leave me in the innermost garden

Faithfully my roses wait:

Fertilize, cut, bind,

Cut hands from thorns.

The blooming light, awake moonlight

Enter the flower goblets.

The winds pull gently over it,

And rain roars in some nights.

I am earthbound like her

And once again disappeared.

Unlike Olga, Golo Mann (1909 – 1994) was anything but a mystic.

As the son of Thomas Mann, Golo belonged to one of the most famous literary families in the world.

Not only his father, but also his uncle Heinrich and his siblings Erika, Klaus, Monika, Elisabeth and Michael worked as writers.

Writing was in Golo’s blood.

Above: Golo Mann (1909 – 1994)

This does not mean that writing was always easy for him.

On the contrary, like all of Thomas Mann’s children, Golo was overshadowed by his father and did not feel privileged to be the son of a Nobel laureate in literature.

Golo saw himself primarily as a historian and thus distinguished himself from the novelist who was his father.

Above: Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

Nevertheless, Golo used a thoroughly literary approach to history.

Two of his books are titled History and Stories and Historiography as Literature.

The fact that Golo cultivated a narrative style that earned him condescending reviews and the derisive ridicule of fellow historians, but this did not stop the general public from enthusiastically reading his books.

Deutsche Geschichte des 19. und 20. Jahrhunderts - Golo Mann ...

Golo Mann’s first bestseller was largely created in Thurgau.

Again and again Golo retired to Altnau for several weeks in the Zur Krone Inn, for the first time in summer 1949.

His memories of Lake Constance were published in 1984 in the anthology Mein Bodensee: Liebeserklärung an eine Landschaft (My Lake Constance: Declaration of Love for a Landscape), under the title “Mit wehmütigen Vergnügen” (with wistful pleasure).

There he writes about the Krone:

There was an inn on the ground floor, the owner’s family had set up an apartment on the first floor, and on the second floor a few small rooms connected by a forecourt were available to friends of the Pfisters, the bookseller Emil Oprecht and his wife Emmi.

Thanks to my friend Emmi, they became my asylum, my work and retirement home.

Emmi and Emil Oprecht belonged to the circle of friends of Julie and Jakobus Weidenmann in Kesswil.

The Oprecht home in Zürich was a meeting point for all opponents of the Hitler regime during the war.

Ziviler Ungehorsam gegen Hitler: Wie Emil und Emmie Oprecht auch ...

Above: Emil and Emmi Oprecht

Europa Verlag (Europa Publishing) was committed to the same democratic and social spirit as that of the Weidenmann guests in the 1920s, including Golo’s siblings Erika and Klaus.

Above: Erika Mann (1905 – 1969) and Klaus Mann (1906 – 1949)

Golo’s father was good friends with Emil Oprecht and published the magazine Mass und Wert (Measure and Value) together with Konrad Falke (1880 – 1942).

It is ultimately thanks to these diverse relationships that Golo Mann put his Deutsche Geschichte des 19. und 20. Jahrhunderts (German History of the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries) in paper in 1956 and 1957, primarily in Altnau.

The success of this book made it possible for Golo Mann, who had gone into American exile like his father, to finally return to Europe.

It looked like nothing stood in the way of his academic career.

When his appointment to the University of Frankfurt did not come about, Golo retired from teaching and lived from then on a freelance writer in his parents’ home in Kilchberg on Lake Zürich and in Berzona in Canton Ticino, where fellow writers Alfred Andersch (1914 – 1980) and Max Frisch were his neighbours.

Above: Max Frisch (1911 – 1981)

In Kilchberg, Berzona, and again in Altnau, Golo wrote his opus magnum, Wallenstein – Sein Leben erzählt von Golo Mann (Wallenstein: His Life Told by Golo Mann).

Telling history was completely frowned upon by academic historians in 1971, the year this monumental biography was published, but Golo didn’t care nor did the thousands of his readers.

Wallenstein“ (Golo Mann) – Buch gebraucht kaufen – A02lgtja01ZZ4

Despite hostility from university critics, Golo was awarded two honorary doctorates, in France and England, but not in the German-speaking world.

In addition, he was awarded a number of literary prizes for his books: the Schiller Prize, the Lessner Ring, the Georg Büchner Prize, the Goethe Prize and the Bodensee Literature Prize.

Große Kreisstadt Überlingen: Bodensee-Literaturpreis

The last will have particularly pleased him, because the Lake smiled at the beginning of his literary fame.

(For more on the entire Thomas Mann family, please see Canada Slim and the Family of Mann in my other blog, The Chronicles of Canada Slimhttps://canadaslim.wordpress.com)

The Lake seemed to be smiling at the beginning of our journey as we left Highway #13 in the direction of Sommeri.

Summery Sommeri Summary

The word ‘plague’ had just been uttered for the first time….

Everybody knows that pestilences have a way of recurring in the world.

Yet somehow we find it hard to believe in ones that crash down on our heads from a blue sky.

There have been as many plagues as wars in history.

Yet always plagues and wars take people equally by surprise.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Above: The plague, Marseille, France, 1720, Michel Serré

Sommeri (population: 591) is first mentioned in 905 as Sumbrinaro.

Between 1474 and 1798, the villages of Niedersommeri and Obersommeri formed a court of the PrinceAbbot of St. Gall.

In 1474 the Church of St. Mauritius was dedicated.

It was renovated to its current appearance in the first half of the 15th century.

After the Protestant Reformation reached Sommeri in 1528, the church became a shared church for both faiths in 1534.

Originally the major economic activities in Sommeri were predominantly grain production and forestry.

Wappen von Sommeri

Above: Coat-of-arms of Sommeri

It was nearly obliterated by the Black Death in 1629.

In the second half of the 19th century, fruit production, hay production, cattle and dairy farming were added.

A cheese factory was opened in 1852.

In the last third of the 20th century, some industrial plants moved into the villages, especially embroidery and furniture manufacturing.

At the beginning of the 21st century there were companies in the HVAC industry, precision engineering and manufacturing school furniture in Sommeri.

Sommeri

Above: Sommeri, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

To be frank, there is no reason to linger in Sommeri, except to say that it was the birthplace of the writer Maria Dutli-Rutlishauser (1903 – 1995) of whom I have previously written.

Alt- Steckborn

Above: Maria Dutli-Rutlishauser

(For more on Maria, please see Canada Slim and the Immunity Wall of this blog.)

Onwards.

From Sommeri, Google Maps leads her hapless wanderers onwards to Langrickenbach.

Google Maps Logo.svg

Query:

How contrive not to waste time?

Answer:

By being fully aware of it all the while.

Ways in which this can be done:

By spending one’s days on an uneasy chair in a dentist’s waiting room, by remaining on one’s balcony all Sunday afternoon, by listening to lectures in a language one doesn’t know, by travelling by the longest and least convenient train routes, and, of course, standing all the way, by queuing at the box office of theatres and then not booking a seat. 

And so forth.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Longing for Langrickenbach

Langrickenbach (population: 1,291) was first mentioned in 889 as “Rihchinbahc“.

It is a place for crops and fruit, cattle breeding and dairy farming, general goods, timber and cattle trading.

Again, not much to see.

Hit the road.

Above: Langrickenbach, Canton Thurgau

Watching cows and calves playing, grooming one another or being assertive, takes on a whole new dimension if you know that those taking part are siblings, cousins, friends or sworn enemies.

If you know animals as individuals you notice how often older brothers are kind to younger ones, how sisters seek or avoid each other’s company, and which families always get together at night to sleep and which never do so.

Cows are as varied as people.

They can be highly intelligent or slow to understand, friendly, considerate, aggressive, docile, inventive, dull, proud or shy.

All these characteristics are present in a large enough herd.”

(Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows)

The Secret Life of Cows: Amazon.co.uk: Young, Rosamund ...

The Birwinken Bulletin

Makes me think of Bullwinkle, the cartoon moose and his squirrel friend Rocky.

No moose or squirrels spotted.

Above from left to right: Rocky, Bullwinkle, and Captain Peter “Wrongway” Peachfuzz

Birwinken (population: 1,319) was first mentioned in 822 as “Wirinchova“.

In the 19th century, the village economy added animal husbandry….

Cattle feedlot

(My wife is an animal?)

….to the traditional agriculture and fruit growing.

In 1878, a weaving firm and three embroidery factories provided 165 jobs.

However the decline of the textile industry in the 20th century and the village’s remoteness from Anywhere led to high levels of emigration.

As a result, the village never developed much industry and has remained a farmer’s hamlet.

In 1990, for example, 63% of the population worked in agriculture.

Birwinken

Above: Birwinken, Canton Thurgau

It was only a matter of lucidly recognizing what had to be recognized, of dispelling extraneous shadows and doing what needed to be done….

There lay certitude.

There, in the daily round.

All the rest hung on mere threads and trivial contingencies.

You couldn’t waste your time on it.

The thing was to do your job as it should be done.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

The Doctor Luke Fildes crop.jpg

Above: The Doctor, Luke Fildes, 1891

What is an extremely interesting product of the village is native son Stefan Keller (b. 1958), a writer, journalist and historian.

Rotpunktverlag

Above: Stefan Keller

Keller is best known for:

  • Die Rückkehr: Joseph Springs Geschichte (The Return: Joseph Spring’s Story)

The Berlin youth Joseph Sprung was chased through half of Europe by the Nazis.

He lived in Brussels, Montpellier and Bordeaux with false papers and worked as an interpreter without being recognized.

He survived invasions and rail disasters, but never kissed a girl when he fell into the hands of the Swiss border authorities in November 1943.

At the age of 16, the fugitive was handed over to the Gestapo by the Swiss border guards and denounced as a Jew.

He was transferred to the Auschwitz concentration camp via the Drancy collective warehouse near Paris.

Sixty years later, Joseph Sprung returned to Switzerland.

Today his name is Joseph Spring, he lives in Australia and demands the justice he deserves.

He accused the Swiss government of aiding and abetting genocide.

In a sensational trial, the Swiss federal court decided in 2000 that the extradition of a Jewish youth to the National Socialists can no longer be judged.

Joseph Spring had at least asked for symbolic reparation.

In November 2003, he returned to Switzerland to tell his story:

The story of a survivor who sued an entire country, went through a process to demand justice, lost it, and still has the last word.

Die Rückkehr: Joseph Springs Geschichte (Hörbuch-Download): Amazon ...

  • Die Zeit der Fabriken (The Age of Factories)

The worker Emil Baumann was already dead when his former superior Hippolyt Saurer died unexpectedly.

The whole of Arbon mourned the truck manufacturer Saurer.

At that time, almost all of Arbon mourned Baumann, for whom the workers in Saurer’s factory were responsible for his death.

Emil Baumann died shortly after an argument with his boss Saurer.

It is 1935 when everything starts with two deaths.

The young lathe operator Emil Baumann dies from suicide because his master harasses him and because he cannot cope with the new working conditions.

The college immediately went on strike.

Then the entrepreneur and engineer Hippolyt Saurer dies.

He choked on his own blood after an tonsil operation.

Based on the death of these two men, Stefan Keller tells the story of a small town in eastern Switzerland, its conflicts, triumphs and defeats.

The city of Arbon on the Swiss shore of Lake Constance is ruled by the “Reds” (by the Social Democrats, the left).

The Adolph Saurer AG factory was and still is legendary for its (military) trucks.

Above: Memorial to Franz, Adolph und Hippolyt Saurer, Arbon

Arbon is an example of many places in Switzerland:

The time of the factories is also a history of the Swiss industry and workers’ movement.

Starting with the motor carriages of the Wilhelminian era to the Saurer gasification trucks of the National Socialists, from the big strikes after 1918 to the dismantling of almost all jobs in the 1990s and from the resistance of an editor against censors in the Second World War to the union’s «fight against» against foreign colleagues.

Die Zeit der Fabriken: Amazon.de: Stefan Keller: Bücher

  • Grüningers Fall (The Grüninger Case)

A historical report about the St. Gallen police captain Paul Grüninger, who in the 1930s, according to his conscience and not in accordance with the law, saved the lives of numerous Jews.

The facts:

In 1938/1939, Grüninger saved the lives of hundreds, if not thousands, of Austrian, Jewish refugees by providing them with the wrong papers and thus enabling them to enter Switzerland legally.

He was suspended from duty due to breach of official duties and falsification of documents.

He was severely fined for his conduct and sentenced to prison.

The book aims to make it clear that today it was not Grüninger who would have to sit on the dock, but the inhumane refugee policy of the Swiss government during the Nazi era.

The book was made into a film in 1997 based on a screenplay by Stefan Keller and directed by Richard Dindo with Keller’s expert advice.

Grüningers Fall

  • Maria Theresia Wilhelm: Spurlos verschwunden (Maria Theresia Wilhelm: Disappeared without a trace)

In the mid-1930s Maria Theresia Wilhelm met the Swiss mountain farmer and gamekeeper Ulrich Gantenbein, who subsequently left his first wife.

From the beginning Maria and Ulrich’s marriage suffered from official regulations.

Ulrich is admitted to a psychiatric clinic shortly after their marriage.

Maria is barely tolerated by the neighbourhood.

Eventually she too comes to a psychiatric clinic and there experiences inhumane therapy methods from today’s perspective.

Her seven children are torn away, placed in orphanages and put to work.

Maria is finally released in June 1960.

On the way to buy shoes, she disappears without a trace….

Maria Theresia Wilhelm - spurlos verschwunden - Stefan Keller ...

Rieux asked Grand if he was doing extra work for the Municipality.

Grand said No.

He was working on his own account.

“Really?”, Rieux said, to keep the conversation going.

“And are you getting on well with it?”

“Considering I’ve been at it for years, it would be surprising if I wasn’t.

Though, in one sense, there hasn’t been much progress.”

“May one know” – the doctor halted – “what it is that you’re engaged on?”

Grand put a hand up to his hat and tugged it down upon his big, protruding ears, then murmured some half-inaudible remark from which Rieux seemed to gather that Grand’s work was connected with “the growth of a personality”.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Bürglen Bound

Next town Google leads us to is Bürglen (population: 3,841), first mentioned in 1282 as “Burgelon“.

Even though the village was fortified around 1300, it was never considered a city, due to the decline of its owner, the Baron of Sax-Hohensax, and from other neighbouring villages.

After the disastrous fire of 1528, the villagers went into debt for the reconstruction of Bürglen.

To help pay off their debt, in 1540 they granted the nobility rights to St. Gallen.

Under St. Gallen, Bürglen lost most of its autonomy.

St. Gallen appointed the bailiff and the chairman of the Lower Court, promoted the settlement of its citizens to form a local elite and change the succession order of inheritances.

Despite this, the local farmers enjoyed a certain independence.

In the 17th century, they promoted the expansion of the Castle as well as the creation of new businesses.

This relative prosperity was followed in the 18th century by a government practice that hindered the formation of viable village government and led to general impoverishment.

Reformierte Kirche und Schloss Bürglen

Above: Bürglen, Canton Thurgau

Power mattered more than people.

A problem eternal and universal.

Worth seeing is the Bürgeln Castle, the old quarter and the Reformed Church.

Above: Bürglen Castle

Of notable personalities connected to Bürgeln, it was home to artists Gottlieb Bion (1804 – 1876), Fritz Gilsi (1878 – 1961) and Jacques Schedler (1927 – 1989) as well as the writer Elisabeth Binder (b. 1951).

I haven’t read Ms. Binder’s work as yet, but the titles sound appealing…..

  • Der Nachtblaue (The Night Blue)
  • Sommergeschicht (Summer Story)
  • Orfeo
  • Der Wintergast (The Winter Guest)
  • Ein kleiner und kleiner werdender Reiter: Spurren einer Kindheit (A rider getting smaller and smaller: Traces of a childhood)

Above: Elisabeth Binder

Ever south and east the long and winding road continues….

The long and winding road.png

Cottard was a silent, secretive man, with something about him that made Grand think of a wild boar.

His bedroom, meals at a cheap restaurant, some rather mysterious comings and goings . these were the sum of Cottard’s days.

He described himself as a traveller in wines and spirits.

Now and again he was visited by two or three men, presumably customers.

Sometimes in the evening he would go to a cinema across the way.

In this connection Grand mentioned a detail he had noticed – that Cottard seemed to have a preference for gangster films.

But the thing that had struck him most about the man was his aloofness, not to say his mistrust of everyone he met.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Nighthawks by Edward Hopper 1942.jpg

Above: Nighthawks, Edward Hopper, 1942

Few Words for Wuppenau

Wuppenau (population: 1,111) was first mentioned in 820 as “Wabbinauwa” and is primarily an agricultural community.

Wuppenau

Above: Wuppenau, Canton Thurgau

(It is funny how so many of the original names seem similar to those of the Original Peoples of the Americas.

Or akin to something Elmer Fudd might say about wascally wabbits.)

ElmerFudd.gif

….and that’s all I have to say about that.

Film poster with a white background and a park bench (facing away from the viewer) near the bottom. A man wearing a white suit is sitting on the right side of the bench and is looking to his left while resting his hands on both sides of him on the bench. A suitcase is sitting on the ground, and the man is wearing tennis shoes. At the top left of the image is the film's tagline and title and at the bottom is the release date and production credits.

We are now in Canton St. Gallen and the city of Wil (pronounced “ville”).

Wappen von Wil

Above: Coat of arms of Wil, Canton St. Gallen

The Word Pump and the Swan Song of Wil

“I have the same idea with all my books: an attempt to come close to the core of reality, the structure of reality, as opposed to the merely superficial. 

The realistic novel is remote from art. 

A novel should heighten life, should give one an illuminating experience. 

It shouldn’t set out what you know already. 

I just muddle away at it. 

One gets flashes here and there, which help. 

I am not a philosopher or an intellectual. 

Practically anything I have done of any worth I feel I have done through my intuition, not my mind.”  (Patrick White)

There are times in a man’s life when he simply must ask for assistance and my trying to convey to you an accurate mental image of Wil may require the services of an expert.

Above: Wil Castle

Ask Fred.

Fred Mast, excuse me, Professor Dr. Mast.

Born and raised in Wil, Fred is a full professor at the University of Bern, specialized in mental imagery, sensory motor processing and visual perception.

Perhaps he is one of the few folks who can truly answer the question:

Do you see what I see?

Über uns: Prof. Dr. Fred Mast - Kognitive Psychologie, Wahrnehmung ...

Above: Dr. Fred Mast

I mean, Fred should know, he has been educated and worked at universities esteemable, such as Zürich, the Federal Institute of Technology (ETHZ)(Switzerland’s equivalent to MIT), Harvard, MIT, Lausanne and Bern.

Some of his published papers suggest he does know what he is talking about:

  • Visual mental imagery interferes with allocentric orientation judgments
  • Visual mental images can be ambiguous
  • Mental images: always present, never there

Black Mamba oder die Macht der Imagination: Wie unser Gehirn die ...

Thanks, Dr. Fred, for demystifying the fuzzification.

Let me say for the record that as a place to visit I have always liked Wil….

But as a place to work….not as much.

Wil (population: 23,955), today the 3rd biggest city in Canton St. Gallen, was founded around 1200 and was handed over by the Counts of Toggenburg to the Abbey of St. Gallen in 1226.

(Look, Ma!  Look at what I founded!)

Disputes between the Abbey and Habsburg King Rudolf I (1218 – 1291) led to the destruction of Wil in 1292.

(If Rudolf couldn’t have Wil, then no one will?)

Above: Statue of Rudolf I, Speyer Cathederal, Germany

Wil was again besieged in the Old Zürich War in 1445 and yet again in the Toggenburg War in 1712.

On 1 January 2013, Susanne Hartmann became the first female mayor, not only of Wil-Bronschhofen, but in the entire canton of St. Gallen.

Hartmann announced her candidacy in April 2012.

Despite all forecasts the result of the elections was a landslide victory for Susanne Hartmann.

Despite (or perhaps because) the bus being driven by a woman, Will carries on.

Susanne Hartmann :: CVP Kanton St. Gallen

Above: Her Honour Wil Mayor Susanne Hartmann

In addition to many small and medium-sized enterprises, Wil is also home to a number of large, some international, industrial firms, including Stihl, Larag, Camion Transport, Brändle, Heimgartner Fahnen, Schmolz & Bickenbach, Kindlemann….

So it stands to reason that a city of industry may attract schools to teach those in these industries.

Such was the Wil school (now defunct) where I taught.

It was, what we in the business of freelance teaching refer to as a “cowboy school“, an institution more interested in the school’s acquisition of money than in the students’ acquisition of an education.

It was one of those schools where parents sent their children who lacked either the capacity or the desire to learn.

A paid education in all senses of the word.

It was a nightmare to teach there.

Blackboard Jungle (1955 poster).jpg

The students, best defined as juvenile deliquents or little criminal bastards, would not do their assignments, stay off their damn phones, bring their textbooks to class, listen in class or stop talking to one another.

The worst of them brought out the worst in me, so it was to everyone’s mutual relief when we parted company.

Above: Student – Teacher Monument, Rostock, Germany

As for the city of Wil itself, putting aside my feelings towards my ex-employer now extinct, there is much that is positive to relate.

Wil is considered to be the best preserved city in Eastern Switzerland and best seen from afar standing atop the Stadtweiher (a hill with a pond overlooking Wil) overlooking the silhouette of the old quarter.

The pedestrian promenade from Schwanenkreisel (Swan Circle) towards the old quarter is the place where most of the shops are, including a farmer’s market every Saturday.

On 8 July 2006, the 37-metre high Wiler Tower was inaugurated on the Hofberg (the mountain above Wil).

It is a wooden structure with a double spiral staircase and three X supports.

It is worth the climb for the view, if not for the exercise.

Around 180 kilometres of hiking trails are signposted around Wil.

The almost 33 kilometres long Wilerrundweg (Wil Circle Path)….

(Safer than a cycle path?)

….was established in 2013.

Kussbänkli: Kantonsrat Sennhauser hat es hergestellt – und ...

Above: The Kissing Bench

The 87-kilometre Toggenburger Höhenweg (high road) starts in Wil and leads to Wildhaus via Mühlrüti, Atzmännig and Arvenbüel.

Toggenburger Höhenweg - Ferienregion Toggenburg - Ostschweiz

The Thurweg passes near Wil at Schwarzenbach (black creek), following the Thur River from Wildhaus to Rüdlingen where it meets the Rhine River in Canton Schaffhausen.

Thurweg von Stein nach Ebnat- Kappel - MeinToggenburg.ch

Worth seeing in Wil are the Maria Hilf Wallfahrtskirche (Mary of Charity Pilgrim Church), the Abbey Castle, the St. Katarina Dominican and the Capuchin Cloisters, the Courthouse, Ruddenzburg (Ruddenz Castle), St. Niklaus and St. Peter Catholic Churches, the old Guardhouse, the City Archive, the Schnetztor gate, the City Museum (open on weekends from 2 to 5 pm), the psychiatric clinic (ask, in vain, for Dr. Fred) and the former Hurlimann tractor factory.

Wil has the Challer Theatre, the Kunsthalle (art hall), the Tonhalle (concert hall) and the Remise (for more modern music), but excepting these cultural remnants the young generally don’t party here if they can get away to Zürich.

The room was in almost complete darkness.

Outside, the street was growing noisier and a sort of murmur of relief greeted the moment when all the street lamps lit up, all together.

Rieux went out on to the balcony and Cottard followed him.

From the outlying districts – as happens every evening in our town – a gentle breeze wafted a murmur of voices, smells of roasting meat, a gay perfumed tide of freedom sounding on its ways, as the streets filled up with noisy young people released from shops and offices.

Nightfall with its deep remote baying of unseen ships, the rumour rising from the sea and the happy tumult of the crowd – that first hour of darkness which in the past had always had a special charm for Rieux – seemed today charged with menace, because of all he knew.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Mediterranean side – Oran

Above: Oran, Algeria

Of the many famous people native to Wil, noteworthy (by Swiss standards) are the filmmaker Max Peter Ammann (b. 1929) and the TV star Kurt Felix (1941 – 2012).

LESE-THEATER-STÜCK VON MAX PETER AMMANN IM HOF ZU WIL – wil24.ch

Above: Max Peter Ammann

Kurt Felix

Above: “When I must go, I will leave a happy man.

Daniel Imhof (b. 1977), the Swiss son of a Smithers (British Columbia) bush pilot, is a retired footballer from Canada’s national soccer team and now resides in Wil.

Canada Soccer

I think to myself:

I have finally gotten so impossible and unpleasant that they will really have to do something to make me better….

They have no idea what a bottomless pit of misery I am….

They do not know that this is not some practice fire drill meant to prepare them for the real inferno, because the real thing is happening right now.

All the bells say:

Too late.

It’s much too late and I’m so sure that they are still not listening.

(Elizabeth Wurtzel, Prozac Nation)

ProzacNationBook.jpg

Of human interest is the story of Wil native, the opera singer Anna Sutter (1871 – 1910).

Her brief affair with royal Württemberg court conductor Aloys Obrist proved to be fatal.

After she ended their two-year relationship in 1909, Obrist entered her Stuttgart apartment on 29 June 1910 and killed her with two pistol shots before taking his own life.

Sadly, Anna is best remembered for how she died than for how she lived.

Cows are individuals, as are sheep, pigs and hens, and, I dare say, all the creatures on the planet however unnoticed, unstudied or unsung.

Certainly, few would dispute that this is true of cats and dogs and horses.

When we have had occasion to treat a farm animal as a pet, because of illness, accident or bereavement, it has exhibited great intelligence, a huge capacity for affection and an ability to fit in with an unusual routine.

Perhaps everything boils down to the amount of time spent with any one animal – and perhaps that is true of humans too.

(Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows)

CH cow 2 cropped.jpg

Also worth mentioning is the writer René Oberholzer (b. 1963), who has been teaching in Wil (in a non-cowboy school it is hoped) since 1987.

He began writing poetry in 1986 and prose in 1991.

(I must confess my rural roots and prejudices appear when I find myself asking:

Do real men write (or even read) poetry?

I believe they do, but whether the fine folks in Argenteuil County in Canada feel that way is debatable.)

Shakespeare.jpg

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

Oberholzer founded the Höhenhöhe (higher heights) writers group in 1991.

As founding can be addictive, the following year he then founded the literary experimental group Die Wortpumpe (the Word Pump) together with his colleagues (co-conspirators?) Aglaja Veteranyi and Gabriele Leist.

He is a member of several author associations.

His work has been mainly published in anthologies, literary and online magazines.

He is best known for:

  • Wenn sein Herz nicht mehr geht, dann repariert man es und gibt es den Kühen weiter: 39 schwarze Geschichten (When his heart stops beating, repair it and give it to the cows: 39 dark tales)
  • Ich drehe den Hals um – Gedichte (I turn my stiff neck: Poems)
  • Die Liebe würde an einem Dienstag erfunden (Love was invented on a Tuesday)
  • Kein Grund zur Beunruhigung – Geschichten (No reason to panic: Stories)

Die Liebe wurde an einem Dienstag erfunden: 120 Geschichten | René ...

As my wife and I are married (no reason to panic) and it was a Thursday (as love only visits Wil on Tuesdays), we faithfully follow fatalistic Google Maps, and continue on to….

Why is it that one can look at a lion or a planet or an owl or at someone’s finger as long as one pleases, but looking into the eyes of another person is, if prolonged past a second, a perilous affair?

(Walker Percy)

Percy in 1987

Above: Walker Percy (1916 – 1990)

Restful Rickenbach

Rickenbach (population: 2,774), first mentioned in 754 as “Richinbach“.

After the end of the crop rotation system in the 19th century livestock and dairy farming became the major sources of income.

A mill, built in the 13th century, was expanded in 1919 to become Eberle Mills, which operated until 2000.

The Eschmann Bell Foundry existed until 1972.

After the construction of the A1 motorway and the growth of Wil, by 1990 the population of Rickenbach had doubled.

Langrickenbach

Above: Rickenbach

A bridged Lütisburg

When a war breaks out people say:

It’s too stupid.  It can’t last long.”

But though a war may well be ‘too stupid’, that doesn’t prevent its lasting.

Stupidity has a knack of getting its way.

As we should see if we were not always so much wrapped in ourselves.

In this respect our townsfolk were like everybody else, wrapped up in themselves.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

Duns cup helps with concentration

Lütisburg (population: 1,576), though smaller than Rickenbach, is far more interesting to the casual visitor.

It is first mentioned on 1214 as “Luitinsburch“.

Wappen von Lütisburg

Above: Lütisburg coat of arms

The Castle, built in 1078 by the Abbey of St. Gallen, was abandoned by the Abbey a short time later, but due to the Castle’s strategically important location, it became the headquarters of the Counts of Toggenburg from the 13th to the 15th centuries.

After the Abbey acquired the County of Toggenburg in 1468, the Castle served as a bailiwick.

In the 19th century, alongside agriculture, ironworks, copper hammering and manufacturing dominated.

The train station has existed since 1870.

Above: Lütisburg, 1700

Lütisburg’s townscape is characterized by bridges and footbridges, including the Letzi Bridge (1853), the Guggenloch Railway Viaduct (1870) and the “new” Thur Bridge (1997).

The covered wooden bridge (1790) over the Thur River, on the cantonal road to Flawil, was used for car traffic until 1997.

Upon the wooden Letzi Bridge, the hiking trail to Ganterschwil crosses the Neckar River.

The nearby hamlet of Winzenburg with its Winzenberger Höhe (heights) (836 m) is a popular destination with local lovers of landscape.

B&B Winzenberg (Schweiz Lütisburg) - Booking.com

Lütisburg’s claim to fame, beside its bridges, lies with the two brothers Germann….

War of any kind is abhorrent. 

Remember that since the end of World War II, over 40 million people have been killed by conventional weapons. 

So, if we should succeed in averting nuclear war, we must not let ourselves be sold the alternative of conventional weapons for killing our fellow man. 

We must cure ourselves of the habit of war.

(Patrick White)

Modern warfare: Into the Jaws of Death, 1944

Kilian Germann (1485 – 1530) was the son of Johannes Germann, the Chief bailiff of Lütisburg, and brother of the mercenary leader (and later bailiff) Hans Germann (also known as the Batzenhammer) and Gallus Germann (also chief bailiff of Lütisburg).

Kilian was governor in Roschach (1523 – 1528) and in Wil (1528 -1529).

In 1529, Kilian was elected to be the next Prince-Abbot of St. Gallen in Rapperswil.

After his confirmation by Pope Clement VII (1478 – 1534), Kilian was also proposed for this position to Emperor Charles V (1500 – 1558) who confirmed him in February 1530.

Above: Coat of arms of Kilian Germann

But life often thwarts the best-laid plans….

What I am interested in is the relationship between the blundering human being and God.

I belong to no church, but I have a religious faith.

It is an attempt to express that, among other things, that I try to do.

Whether he confesses to being religious or not, everyone has a religious faith of a kind.

I myself am a blundering human being with a belief in God who made us and we got out of hand, a kind of Frankenstein monster.

Everyone can make mistakes, including God.

I believe that God does intervene.

I think there is a Divine Power, a Creator, who has an influence on human beings if they are willing to be open to Him.

(Patrick White)

Michelangelo - Creation of Adam (cropped).jpg

Above: Creation of Adam, Michelangelo, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Prince-Abbot Kilian fled to Meersburg (on the German side of Lake Constance) in 1529 after the outbreak of the First Kappel War.

From February 1530, Kilian lived at Wolfurt Castle near Bregenz (on the Austrian part of Lake Constance).

Above: Wolfurt Castle

In exile, Kilian nonetheless cultivated his social network with the southern German nobility in order to secure political pressure on the reformed movement on the Prince-Abbot’s lands, which did not escape the attention of his enemy, the reformer Vadian.

Above: Vadian statue, St. Gallen

In 1530, Kilian represented the Abbey of St. Gallen at the Council of Basel.

In July, he visited the Augsburg Reichstag (government).

It looked like Kilian’s fading star was beginning to shine once more.

That same year of his visits to Basel and Augsburg, returning to Bregenz after a visit to the Earl of Montfort, Kilian drowned when his horse fell into the Bregenz Ach (stream).

He was buried in the Mehrerau Monastery near Bregenz.

Abtei Mehrerau – Blick vom Gebhardsberg

Discipline is the soul of an army.

It makes small numbers formidable, procures success to the weak and success to all.

(George Washington)

Gilbert Stuart Williamstown Portrait of George Washington.jpg

Above: George Washington (1730 – 1799)

Hans Germann (1500 – 1550), Kilian’s younger brother, was an officer in the service of the French Crown for many years.

After returning home, Hans supported his brother Kilian during the turmoil of the Reformation.

Contemporaries described Hans as “a firm, brave, but rough, frivolous journeyman, who had sold many of his fellow countrymen to France for boring gold.”

Above: Coat of arms of Captain Hans Germann, Kreuzenstein Castle, Austria

I guess we find both sinners and saints in every family and in every community.

The socially disadvantaged of Ganterschwil

In my books I have lifted bits from various religions in trying to come to a better understanding.

I have made use of religious themes and symbols.

Now, as the world becomes more pagan, one has to lead people in the same direction in a different way.

(Patrick White)

Down the road (so to speak) is the village of Ganterschwil (population: 1,186).

It is first mentioned in 779 as “Cantrichesuilare“.

(Try saying that five times fast….)

Pfarrkirche von Ganterschwil

Above:  Parish church, Ganterschwil, Canton St. Gallen

Grain and oats were grown and processed in three mills here.

From the 18th century, contract weaving became important.

Small textile factories developed from family businesses.

In the 19th century, the livestock and dairy indutries replaced grain cultivation.

After the crash in the textile industry in 1918, only smaller companies could be built.

In 2000, around half of the working population was employed in the service sector.

Wappen von Ganterschwil

Above: Coat of arms of Ganterschwil

The Home for Socially Disadvantaged Children, founded in 1913 by Reformer Pastor Alfred Lauchener, developed into the Centre for Child and Adolescent Psychiatry Sonnenhof.

Klinik Sonnenhof Ganterschwil

Above: Centre for Child and Adolescent Psychiatry Sonnenhof, Ganterschwil

In Ganterschwil, there are many small businesses that offer jobs.

The best-known is the Berlinger Company, which was active in tape production.

Today it plays a leading role in the production of doping control systems, in the form of counterfeit-proof sample glasses.

Temperature Monitoring / Doping Control Equipment- Berlinger & Co. AG

In the parish church there are frescoes from the Middle Ages discovered and restored in 1941 and now under the protection of the Swiss Confederation.

Ganterschwil is a place difficult to define.

Is it the past?

The future?

What is it now?

The Beautiful Minds of Lichtensteig

Lichtensteig (population: 1,870) is first mentioned in 1228 and was founded by the Counts of Toggenburg as “Liehtunsteige“.

A market is mentioned in 1374 and the right to hold markets was confirmed in 1400.

A letter of privileges issued by the Lords of Raron (1439) confirms the existence of 12 burghers and the appointment of judges by the burghers and the Lords.

After the acquisition of the Toggenburg by St. Gallen Abbey in 1468, Lichtensteig became the seat of the Abbot’s reeve.

The council declared Lichtensteig’s support for the Reformation in 1528.

The sole church at this time was shared by both Reformed and Catholic believers, while their schools were kept separate until 1868.

Lichtensteig’s importance as a market town increased in the 19th century with the development of the textile home working industry in the Toggenburg.

In the early 20th century, there were six yearly markets and a weekly livestock market.

Lichtensteig’s connection to the railroad dates to 1870.

Lichtensteig

Above: Lichtensteig, Canton St. Gallen

I don’t quite know how to say this politely, so I will say it directly.

It seems the further south one travels in Deutschschweiz, the smarter people seem to be.

Thurgau is blood, sweat, tears and toil.

Thurgau is always in the middle of things, between two places but belonging to neither.

Wars of religion and between nations have been fought here for centuries.

Tourists do not linger in Thurgau but traverse it en route to places deemed more interesting.

This is farm country, a land of labour and pragmatism, where poets party in private homes but never parade themselves in political protest processions.

Coat of arms of Kanton Thurgau

Above: Coat of arms of Canton Thurgau

St. Gallen, both city and canton especially the City itself, bears the scent of incense, the stains on a faithful shroud, the remnants of religious rule.

Coat of arms of Kanton St. Gallen

Above: Coat of arms of Canton St. Gallen

St. Gallen is reminiscent of (Giovanni Bocaccio’s Decameron) Ceppello of Prato, who after a lifetime of evil, hoodwinks a holy friar with a deathbed confession and comes to be venerated as St. Ciappelletto, except in reverse with the holy friar hoodwinking the world into venerating it as holier than it could have been.

Decameron, The (unabridged) – Naxos AudioBooks

Granted that the St. Gallen Abbey Library is truly worthy of its UNESCO designation as “an outstanding example of a large Carolingian monastery and was, since the 8th century until its secularisation in 1805, one of the most important cultural centres in Europe”.

The library collection is the oldest in Switzerland, and one of earliest and most important monastic libraries in the world.

The library holds almost 160,000 volumes, with most available for public use.

In addition to older printed books, the collection includes 1,650 incunabula (books printed before 1500), and 2,100 manuscripts dating back to the 8th through 15th centuries – among the most notable of the latter are items of Irish, Carolingian, and Ottonian production.

These codices are held inside glass cases, each of which is topped by a carved cherub offering a visual clue as to the contents of the shelves below – for instance, the case of astronomy-related materials bears a cherub observing the books through a telescope.

Books published before 1900 are to be read in a special reading room.

The manuscript B of the Nibelungenlied (The Song of the Nibelungs, an epic poem written around 1200, the first heroic epic put into writing in Germany, helping to found a larger genre of written heroic poetry) is kept here.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey Library

Granted that the University of St. Gallen (“from insight to impact“) is, according to international rankings,  considered among the world’s leading business schools.

University of St. Gallen logo english.svg

But, my view of the city of St. Gallen is coloured by my experience, which has meant a working man’s life split between teaching at private schools similar to the cowboy outfit of Wil and formerly working as a Starbucks barista.

Neither side seems reflective of St. Gallen’s intellectual potential.

Above: Old houses, St. Gallen

(To be fair, people don’t actually hate places.

They hate their experiences of places.)

The two half-cantons of Appenzell Innerrhoden and Appenzell Ausserrhoden have, over time, perhaps without justification, become the butt of many a joke from the rest of Switzerland when one seeks a place to label as backwards.

Coat of arms of Appenzell

Above: Coat of arms of the half-cantons of Appenzell

To be fair to the comedians, Appenzell still has elections where folks line up in the town square to cast their votes by raising their arms to show their assent and it was the last place in the nation to give women the right to vote.

Farmers still lead their cattle in great processions through towns to Alpine pastures in springtime and back again when winter threatens.

As one travels from Thurgau south towards Ticino one senses a change in spirit.

Swiss cantons

Already we have encountered a village that fostered the growth of a Pulitzer Prize-deserving journalist and we have traversed towns of castles and artists, of epic tales and bridges over troubled waters.

But it is here in Lichtensteig where the air becomes rarified, where farmers think and plowmen wax poetic.

The time has come when scientific truth must cease to be the property of the few, when it must be woven into the common life of the world.” (Louis Agassiz)

Louis Agassiz H6.jpg

Above: Louis Agassiz (1807 – 1873)

Jost Bürgi (1552 – 1632) is probably the kind of man Agassiz had in mind.

Lichtensteiger Bürgi was a Swiss clockmaker, a maker of astronomical instruments and a mathematician.

Although an autodidact (he taught himself), Bürgi was already during his lifetime considered one of the most excellent mechanical engineers of his generation (think of a Da Vinci or an Edison).

Bürgi’s employer, William IV (1532 – 1592), the Landgrave of Hesse-Kessel, in a letter to Tycho Brahe (1542 – 1601)(Denmark’s greatest astronomer) praised Bürgi as “a second Archimedes” (287 – 212 BC).

The lunar crater Byrgius (the Latin form of Bürgi) is named in this Lichtensteiger’s honour.

Above: Portrait of Jost Bürgi

Another thinking man from Lichtensteig was Augustine Reding (1625 – 1692), a Benedictine, the Prince-Abbot of Einsiedeln Abbey and a respected theological writer.

At Einsiedeln, Reding organized the construction of the Abbey’s choir, confessional and the Chapel of St. Magdalena.

In 1675, Einsiedeln took charge of the college at Bellinzona, which was conducted by the monks of the Abbey until their suppression in 1852.

Reding watched carefully over discipline of Abbey affairs and insisted on a thorough intellectual training of his monks.

Above: Einsiedeln Cloister, Canton Schwyz

Lichtenberger Johann Ulrich Giezendanner (1686 – 1738) learned the profession of goldsmithing in Toggenburg.

Through his parish priest Niklaus Scherrer and his friend August Hermann Francke in Halle, Giezendanner began to practice pietism.

Giezendanner was banished from Toggenburg on suspicion of pietism, because he threatened the authorities with the criminal judgment of God.

His threats led to an investigation by a pietist commission set up by the Council, in which the secular side had the majority.

As a result, Giezendanner was expelled without a trial in 1710.

And so he went to Zürich.

In 1714, Giezendanner began studying theology at the University of Marburg, heard lectures from Johann Heinrich Hottinger (1681 – 1750) and worked as a teacher in the Marburg orphanage.

Because Giezendanner preached on his own initiative in Marburg, he was expelled from the state of Hesse.

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After a short stay in Heidelberg, he returned to eastern Switzerland and began to hold secret meetings in Bottinghoffen near Scherzingen, less than 10 klicks (Canadian for kilometres) from my Landschlacht driveway.

Above: Bottighofen Harbour

As a representative of the radical pietism in German-speaking Switzerland, he returned to Zürich until he was expelled from there for his preaching.

On 29 June 1716, Giezendanner’s most memorable sermon of inspiration was given at the country estate of Johann Kaspar Schneeberger in Engstringen (just outside Zürich), in which Giezendanner said:

Hear now, my word, you stupid sticky clods of earth, where is your lie?

And so, hear, hear, heads of this place, you enter as gods and lords, but what kind of god you have for your rule, is it not with you all that you bring your belly to God?

With great arrogance to exclaim sins on the streets, when you walk on the streets, sin will take place and all of you will find it.

Unterengstringen, im Vordergrund das Kloster Fahr

Above: Engstringen, Canton Zürich

Unable to win friends and influence people in Switzerland, Giezendanner emigrated to America in 1734, working as a goldsmith in Charleston.

In 1736, he founded the first church of Toggenburger, Rhine Valley and Appenzell pietists in South Carolina’s Orangeburg County.

Above: Historic houses, Charleston, South Carolina, USA

It is a pity that those trained in the uncertainties of faith couldn’t be made responsible for the training of those who lead nations.

Perhaps a rigorous examination of our leaders’ intellectual and moral training might prevent the rise of demagogues and populists whose only qualification for power is their desire to dominate others.

Another man whose mind was a beautiful thing to behold was Max Rychner.

Max Rychner (1897 – 1965) was a writer, journalist, translator and literary critic.

Hannah Arendt (1906 – 1975), widely considered to be one of the most important political philosophers of the 20th century, called Rychner “one of the most educated and subtle figures in the intellectual life of the era“.

Rychner is considered, among other things, to be the discoverer of the poet Paul Celan (1920 – 1970), the publisher of the memoirs of Walter Benjamin (1892 – 1940), the editor-translator of philosopher-poet Paul Valéry (1871 – 1945), as well as being himself a poet, novelist and essayist.

Rychner is best known for:

  • Freundeswort (Word of a friend)
  • Die Ersten: Ein Epyllion (The first: an epyllion)(not sure what an epyllion is)
  • Unter anderem zur europäischen Literatur zwischen zwei Weltkriegen (On European literature between two world wars)
  • Arachne
  • Bedelte und testierte Welt (Affirmed and certified world)

Bei mir laufen Fäden zusammen - Max Rychner | Wallstein Verlag

According to Wikipedia, Rycher’s “method of literary admiration, based on hermeneutic models, raised formal aesthetic criteria far beyond questions of content and meaning.”

I have no idea of what that means, but it sure sounds impressive.

An incomplete sphere made of large, white, jigsaw puzzle pieces. Each puzzle piece contains one glyph from a different writing system, with each glyph written in black.

Wikivoyage (German version only) recommends Lichtensteig for:

  • the alleys and houses in the old quarter of the town

  • the Toggenburger Museum (Sundays 1 – 5 pm)

  • Fredy’s Mechanical Music Museum (last weekend of the months April to December at 3 pm / guided tours only / five-person minimum / CHF 14 per person)

Fredy's Mechanical Music Museum | Switzerland Tourism

  • Erlebniswelt Toggenburg (Adventure World Toggenburg)(Wednesdays and weekends: 1030 to 1630)

(It’s a small world, after all.)

Erlebniswelt Toggenburg - BESUCHER

  • Various sports facilities, including a climbing wall and an outdoor pool
  • the Thurweg which wends through the town

Datei:Thurweg..jpg

  • Jazz Days, with international jazz greats, annually

Jazztage Lichtensteig | Erlebnisregion Ostschweiz & Bodensee

Travel as a Political Act

Now you may be wondering why I bother telling you all of this, explaining in painful prose what lies beneath the surface of places.

Travel guide writer Rick Steves said it best:

Travel connects people with people.

It helps us fit more comfortably and compatibly into a shrinking world.

It inspires creative new solutions to persistent problems facing our nation.

We can’t understand our world without experiencing it.

There is more to travel than good-value hotels, great art and tasty cuisine.

Travel as a political act means the Traveller can have the time of his life and come home smarter – with a better understanding of the interconnectedness of today’s world and just how we fit in.”

Travel as a Political Act (Rick Steves): Steves, Rick ...

Steves sees the travel writer of the 21st century like a court jester of the Middle Ages.

Rick Steves cropped.jpg

Above: Rick Steves

While thought of as a comedian, the jester was in a unique position to tell truth to power without being punished.

Back then, kings were absolute rulers – detached from the lives of their subjects.

The court jester’s job was to mix it up with people that the King would never meet.

The jester would play in the gutter with the riffraff.

Then, having fingered the gritty pulse of society, the true lifeblood of the Kingdom, the jester would come back into the court and tell the King the truth.

Above: “Keying Up” – The Court Jester, by William Merritt Chase, 1875.

Your Highness, the people are angered by the cost of mead. 

They are offended by the Queen’s parties. 

The Pope has more influence than you. 

Everybody is reading the heretics’ pamphlets. 

Your stutter is the butt of many rude jokes.

Is there not a parallel here between America and this Kingdom?

Comedians like Seth Meyers, Stephen Colbert and Trevor Noah are listened to more by the average American than the actual news these comedians parody.

For these jesters of 21st century television know the pulse of the nation far more accurately than do the mandarins of power in Washington.

Seth Meyers by Gage Skidmore.jpg

Above: Seth Meyers

Stephen Colbert December 2019.jpg

Above: Stephen Colbert

Trevor Noah 2017.jpg

Above: Trevor Noah

Trump is the butt of many rude jokes, because he deserves to be.

Trump has leaders from around the world openly laughing at him at ...

Meyers, Colbert and Noah are graffiti writers on the walls of sacred institutions, watching rich riffraff ride roughshod over the rest of those whose sole hopes from the gutter is that their only direction from their perspective is up.

File:Who Watches the Watchmen.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

In the Kingdom, the King did not kill the jester.

In order to rule more wisely, the King needed the jester’s insights.

In America, the President would love to kill his critics.

He is not interested in ruling wisely, only perpetually.

Official Keep America Great 45th President Hat – Trump Make ...

Many of today’s elected leaders have no better connection with real people (especially beyond their borders) than those divinely ordained monarchs did centuries ago.

Any Traveller, including your humble blogger and you my patient readers, can play jester in your own communities.

Sometimes a jackass won’t move unless a gesturing mosquito is biting its behind.

Mosquito 2007-2.jpg

Consider countries like El Salvador (where people don’t dream of having two cars in every garage) or Denmark (where they pay high taxes with high expectations and are satisfied doing so) or Iran (where many compromise their freedom for their fidelity to their faith).

Travellers can bring back valuable insights and, just like those insights were needed in the Middle Ages, this understanding is desperately needed in our age of anxiety.

Ideally, travel broadens our perspectives personally, culturally and politically.

Suddenly, the palette with which we paint the parameters of our personalities has more colour, more vibrancy.

We realize that there are exciting alternatives to the social and community norms that our less-travelled neighbours may never consider.

It is like discovering there are other delicacies off the menu, that there is more than one genre of music available on the radio, that there is an upstairs alcove above the library yet to be discovered, that you haven’t yet tasted all 31 flavours.

1970s Baskin Robbins 31 Flavors Ice Cream logo

That there are more things in Heaven and Earth than are dreamt of in your philosophy.

I will never be against tourists who travel to escape their workaday lives and simply wish to relax in as uncomplicated a fashion as humanly possible.

Sometimes this is needed.

Kokomo song cover.jpg

No, I am referring to Travellers who travel with a purpose on purpose.

People who try to connect with other people.

People who take history seriously.

Yesterday’s history informs today’s news, which becomes all our tomorrows.

Those with a knowledge (or at least a curiosity) of history can understand current events in a broader context and respond to them more thoughtfully.

As you travel, opportunities to enjoy history are everywhere.

Work on cultivating a general grasp of the sweep of history and you will be able to infuse your travels with more meaning.

Even if, in this time of corona, our travels are local.

Above: History by Frederick Dielman (1896)

I digress.

The Warriors of Wattwil

The long and winding road leads us to Wattwil (population: 8,740), first documented in 897 as “Wattinurlare” (which sounds exotic but only means “Watto’s village“).

Wattwil Gesamtansicht Yburg.jpg

Above: Wattwil, Canton St. Gallen

Around 1230, Heinrich von Iberg had Iberg Castle built here.

It was destroyed during the Appenzell Wars (1401 – 1429) and rebuilt.

It served as the seat of the bailiffs until 1805.

Above: Iberg Castle, Wattwil

In 1468, the entire Toggenburg County (the last Toggenburg Count, Friedrich VII died without heirs) was bought by St. Gallen Abbey.

The Pfaffenweise (place of assembly) (today a cemetery) served as a community and war gathering point and as a place to demonstrate hommage to the Prince-Abbots of St. Gallen.

Above: Wattwil station

In 1529, Pastor Mauriz Miles from Lichtensteig introduced the Reformation to Wattwil.

The population, which supported the religious innovations by a large majority, was able to prevail against the Catholic abbots.

Catholic Services were only reintroduced in 1593.

The Wattwil church was used by both faiths until a new Catholic church was built in 1968.

Above: Wattwil Reformed Church

Above: Wattwil Catholic Church

In 1621, the Capuchin Convent of St. Mary the Angel was built on the slope called the Wenkenürti (I have no idea what this translates to.) after a devastating fire at their previous location on Pfanneregg (a hill where the Vitaparcours – think “outdoor gym path” – is practiced).

The Convent is an excellently preserved complex with a highly baroque church.

Sadly, the Sisters left the monastery in 2010.

Above: St. Mary the Angel Convent

In the 17th century, St. Gallen Abbey wanted to expand the road known as Karrenweg via Rickenpass, in order to ensure a better connection between St. Gallen and Catholic Central Switzerland.

The majority of the Reformed Wattwil populace refused to work on it or contribute to it, tirggering the Toggenburg Turmoil (1699 – 1712), which led to the Second Villmerger War of 1712.

The road was only realized in 1786.

Wattwil’s traditional linen weaving mill was replaced by a cotton factory in 1750.

In the 19th century, more than a dozen companies started operating in the town.

In 1881, the Toggenburg weaving school was founded, from which the Swiss Textile Technical School later emerged.

The spirit of intelligence, the thirst for knowledge, the expression of wisdom can also be found in Wattwil.

Ulrich Bräker (1735 – 1798) was an autodidact, writer and diarist, known for his autobiography, widely received at the time as the voice of an unspoiled “natural man” of the lower classes, based on the title which Bräker became known “der arme Mann im Toggenburg” (the poor man of Toggenburg).

Bräker was born the oldest of eight siblings.

Above: Bräker’s birth house in Näppis near Wattwil

Bräker was educated in literacy and basic arithmetic during ten weeks each winter, working as a goatherd for the rest of the year.

In 1754, the family moved to Wattwil, where Bräker worked various jobs.

In 1755, he entered the service of a Prussian recruiting officer.

Against Bräker’s wishes, he was pressed into military duty in the 13th infantry regiment of the Prussian army in 1756, but he managed to escape later that same year in the midst of the Battle of Lobositz.

War Ensign of Prussia (1816).svg

Above: War flag of Prussia

Returning to his native Toggenburg, Bräker married Salome Ambühl (1735 – 1822) of Wattwil in 1761 and had several children.

Bräker built a house “auf der Hochsteig” (on the high slope) outside of Wattwil and traded in cotton for the local home industry.

Above: Bräker’s house auf der Hochsteig, contemporary drawing (c. 1794; the house was destroyed in 1836)

He began writing a diary.

Der arme Mann im Tockenburg - Ulrich Bräker - Buch kaufen | Ex Libris

Bräker’s writing talent was discovered by local writer and intellectual Johann Ludwig Ambühl.

Bräker published some texts in Ambühl’s Brieftasche aus den Alpen (Letter Bag from the Alps).

Bräker’s writing is based on the pietistic outlook and reflects familiarity with the Bible as well as a keen observation of nature and an enthusiastic interest in the translated works of Shakespeare.

9781166984809: Die Brieftasche Aus Den Alpen (1780) (German ...

Bräker’s diary is a touching human document containing Lebensweisheit (pearls of pure pramatic wisdom).

Sämtliche Schriften, 5 Bde., Bd.1, Tagebücher 1768-1778: Amazon.de ...

Bräker lived to see, and was perturbed by, the French invasion of Switzerland in the spring of 1798.

He died in September that same year.

Johann Ludwig Ambühl (1750 – 1800) was a civil servant and a writer – much like my aforementioned Canadian friend at the beginning of this post.

Ambühl was the son of the schoolmaster of Wattwil, Hans Jacob Ambühl (1699 – 1773).

At the age of 23, Johann became his father’s successor in 1733, for he had helped Hans, increasingly blind, with seven hours of instruction every day since he was 12.

In his free time, Johann mainly devoted himself to studying geometry, music, reading, drawing and collecting natural objects.

In Wattwil, Ambühl was considered a Stölzling (nerd), because of his always strict and serious appearance in public.

9781120610225: Die Brieftasche Aus Den Alpen (1780) (German ...

In 1783, on the recommendation of Gregorius Grob, Ambühl was hired as a court master by the rich Rheineck merchant Jacob Laurenz Custer.

In this function, he accompanied one of his students to Strasbourg in 1786, to Geneva (1788 – 1789) and in 1790 on a study trip through Italy.

The majority of Ambühl’s literary work consists of plays of extremely patriotic content.

It was like sawdust, the unhappiness.

It infiltrated everything.

Everything was a problem, everything made her cry….but it was so hard to say exactly what the problem was in the first place.” 

(Melanie Thernstrom, The Dead Girl)

The Dead Girl by Melanie Thernstrom

Hans Adolf Pestalozzi (1929 – 2004) was a social critic of late 20th century capitalism, which eventually led to his becoming a bestselling author.

Hans A Pestalozzi - Alchetron, The Free Social Encyclopedia

Born in Zürich, Pestalozzi, after his studies at the University of St. Gallen, started working for Migros.

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In the 1960s he built up the Gottlieb Duttweiler Institut, a think tank named ater the Migros founder, in Rüschlikon (on Lake Zürich).

The Institute was established to investigate the range of possible shortcomings and negative effects of capitalism, in particular within Western consumer society, so that they could be combated more effectively.

Pestalozzi fulfilled that task very thoroughly, too thoroughly, especially in his lectures, so much so that in 1977 he was fired by Migros.

Rather than looking for a new job, he became a freelance writer and self-proclaimed “autonomous agitator” who sided with the fledging European youth, peace and ecological movements.

He preached “positive subversion” and tried to convince people that using their own intelligence was the right thing to do.

HANS A. PESTALOZZI | Autor, Positiv

Above: Pestalozzi (centre), After us the future, from positive subversion (left) and Off the trees of the apes (right)

Moreover, Pestalozzi demanded a guaranteed minimum income for everybody.

Pestalozzi died a recluse by suicide in his home near Wattwil.

Einsamer Tod eines wirtschaftskritischen Managers

Wikivoyage recommends the Cloister, the Castle and the Kubli Church in Wattwil.

The current Wikivoyage logo

The Wattwil area is great for hiking and mountain biking.

And somewhere down the highway….

The Afterglow of Ebnat- Kappel

Perhaps the easiest way of making a town’s acquaintance is to ascertain how the people in it work, how they love and how they die. 

In our little town (is this, one wonders, an effect of the climate?) all three are done on much the same lines, with the same feverish yet casual air. 

The truth is that everyone is bored and devotes himself to cultivating habits.

(Albert Camus, The Plague)

The Plague (1992 film).jpg

Ebnat-Kappel (population: 5,031) was first mentioned in 1218 as “Capelle“.

On 26 July 1854, a fire almost completely destroyed the village.

In 1847, Johann Gerhard Oncken founded the first Swiss Baptist church here in E-K.

Ebnat-Kappel Vilagxo kun preghejo 611.jpg

People visit Ebnat-Kappel primarily to ski or to follow the 60-kilometre Thurweg.

Worth viewing are:

  • the Reformed Church in the centre of Ebnat along with the church hall with its front tower

  • the Steinfels House (a Gothic building with Baroque decor)

  • the Ackerhaus (built for Albert Edelmann who donated the house to serve as the local museum)

Museum Hauskultur Toggenburg Ackerhaus, Ebnat-Kappel

  • Typical wooden Toggenburg houses preserved in nearby Eich

Bäuerliches Toggenburger Haus in Ebnat-Kappel Foto & Bild ...

  • the Felsenstein House in Kappel with Gothic windows and cross-vaulted rooms
  • the willow wood figures near the station depicting a chapel and an unicorn

Wappen von Ebnat-Kappel

Above: Coat of arms of Ebnat – Kappel

  • the Sinnepark (a sensory park) just south of the village

Der Sinnepark - Verkehrsverein Ebnat-Kappel

Above: Ebnat-Kappel station

Notable people of Ebnat-Kappel are:

  • Albert Edelmann (1886 – 1963) was a teacher, painter and sponsor of local folk and cultural assets.

His Ackerhaus museum shows objects of Toggenburg culture from four centuries.

In addition to household items and equipment from the Toggenburg, the collection contains rural paintings, pictures by Babeli Giezendammer and other painters, seven house organs and neck zithers.

By the end of the 19th century, the neck zither game in Toggenburg was forgotten.

Thanks to Edelmann this tradition was revived.

There is a room dedicated to the Biedermeier period (1815 – 1848) in Toggenburg.

Edelmann’s former studio shows his CV and his work.

While the Museum offers encounters with the past, the culture of Now is everpresent.

Above: Albert Edelmann

I enjoy decoration. 

By accumulating this mass of detail you throw light on things in a longer sense. 

In the long run it all adds up. 

It creates a texture – how shall I put it – a background, a period, which makes everything you write that much more convincing. 

Of course, all artists are terrible egoists. 

Unconsciously you are largely writing about yourself. 

I could never write anything factual. 

I only have confidence in myself when I am another character. 

All the characters in my books are myself, but they are a kind of disguise.

(Patrick White)

  • Babeli Giezendanner (1831 – 1905) was a painter, representative of Appenzeller / Toggenburger peasant painting.

She was born the third of nine children.

In 1861, she married master shoemaker Ulrich Remisegger.

In 1873, he died in an accident.

As a widow with three children, Babeli supported her family through weaving, drawing and painting.

In 1904, she moved to the Hemberg poorhouse and lived there until she died in her 74th year.

Possibly all art flowers more readily in silence. 

Certainly the state of simplicity and humility is the only desirable one for artist or for man. 

While to reach it may be impossible, to attempt to do so is imperative.

(Patrick White)

Babeli Giezendanner learned to draw from her father, which meant that she had a good knowledge of perspective drawing that characterizes her work.

Furthermore, she worked temporarily in Lichtensteig for the lithographer Johan Georg Schmied.

Stylistic relationships to the work of the Swiss peasant painter Johannes Müller from Stein (AR) can be proven.

He may have been one of her role models.

The artist’s oeuvre is diverse and extensive, the inventory includes around 100 works.

They include the depiction of houses and villages, alpine lifts and cattle shows.

She created numerous livery paintings and memorial sheets for birth, baptism, wedding and death.

For commemorative albums, she painted pictures and wrote poems.

The painting of umbrellas and dials of clocks has been handed down in the vernacular, but cannot be proven.

Today, many of her paintings and drawings are exhibited in the Toggenburg Museum in Lichtensteig and in the Museum Ackerhus in Ebnat-Kappel.

Very early in my life it was too late.

(Marguerite Duras, The Lover)

OnFiction: Marguerite Duras The Lover

I start to get the feeling that something is really wrong.

Like all the drugs put together – the lithium, the Prozac, the desipramine and the Desyrel that I take to sleep at night – can no longer combat whatever it is that was wrong with me in the first place. 

I feel like a defective model, like I came off the assembly line flat-out f….d and my parents should have taken me back for repairs before the warranty ran out. 

But that was so long ago.

I start to think there really is no cure for depression, that happiness is an ongoing battle, and I wonder if it isn’t one I’ll have to fight for as long as I live. 

I wonder if it’s worth it.

I start to feel like I can’t maintain the facade any longer, that I may just start to show through. 

And I wish I knew what was wrong.

Maybe something about how stupid my whole life is.

I don’t know.

(Elizabeth Wurzel, Prozac Nation)

Prozac Nation film.jpg

  • Guido Looser (1892 – 1937) was a writer.

Looser attended high school in Zürich and then studied history, German and geography at universities in Zürich and Berlin.

He then worked as a teacher in Zürich.

From 1922, he suffered increasingly from depression which led to long hospital stays in Kreuzlingen and Oetiwil.

In 1937, Looser committed suicide, given the impossibility of continuing to fund adequate hospitalization.

Guido Looser

Looser wrote novels, essays and poems, strongly influenced by his psychological suffering and revolving around illness, melancholy and death.

Looser is known for:

  • Nachglanz (Afterglow)
  • Josuas Hingabe (Joshua’s dedication)
  • Die Würde (Dignity)
  • Nur nie jemandem sagen, wohin man reist (Just never tell anyone where you are going)

Nur nie jemandem sagen, wohin man reist. Prosa - Guido Looser ...

“You only live twice: once when you are born and once when you look death in the face.”

(Ian Fleming)

Above: Ian Fleming (1908 – 1964)

Bridges over troubled waters

Bridge Over Troubled Water single.jpg

When I think of all the things he did because he loved me – what people visit on each other out of something like love. 

It is enough for all the world’s woe. 

You don’t need hate to have a perfectly miserable time.

(Richard Bausch, Mr. Field’s Daughter)

Mr. Field's Daughter: Bausch, Richard: 9780671640514: Amazon.com ...

Stein (population: 1,429) has a few sites worth viewing:

In the village centre, the 18th century church and the Appenzeller Folklore Museum with, among other things, looms and embroidery machines from the 19th century.

Wappen von Stein

Above: Coat of arms, Stein, Canton Appenzell

Between the hamlet of Störgel and the St. Gallen suburb of Haggen lies the Haggen Bridge, the highest pedestrian footbridge in Europe, which spans the 355-metre wide gorge of the Sitter at a height of 99 metres.

The structure called “Ganggelibrugg” (wobbly bridge) was actually planned for traffic between Stein and St. Gallen, but due to serious structural defects it could never be handed over to its intended purpose.

For a long time it was the most used bridge for suicide in Switzerland.

Since 2010, the bridge has been secured with nets that help prevent such tragedies.

Nearby are the Kubelbrücke (the Talking Bridge, a covered wooden bridge over the Urnäsch River in the hamlet of Kubel), the Abtebrücke (the Abbey Bridge, a covered wooden bridge over the River Sitter in the hamlet of Kubel, built by the St. Gallen Monastery) and the Hüsli covered wooden bridges across the Sitter and the Wattbach beneath the Ganggelibrugg in the hamlets of Blatten and Zweibruggen.

Also worth visiting in Stein is the Appenzeller Show Dairy, where you can watch the production of Appenzeller cheese.

(Open: 0900 – 1800 / Guided tours: Wednesday and Sundays, 1400 and 1700)

Everybody is interested (or should be) in Switzerland.

No other country in Europe offers a richer return to the Traveller for his time and effort.

To revisit Switzerland is for the old to renew one’s youth, while for the young it is to gain a lifelong sense of the inspiring grandeurs of this wonderworld.

Above: The Matterhorn

The Traveller goes to Switzerland chiefly to look at mountains, the Swiss Alps are as effectively displayed as the treasures in a well-arranged museum, but the mountains are not the only things in Switzerland.

There are the towns and cities and the people, those admirable Swiss people, who have made their land in many respects the model country of the world.

Above: Lake Lucerne, view from Pilatus

(If you are not sure about this, just ask the Swiss.)

Coat of arms of Switzerland

The sad thing is that while Switzerland may be the playground of Europe, it is not the playground of the Swiss.

Switzerland is their workshop, where they toil at many industries and practice many useful arts of which the outside world knows little.

The world knows of music boxes, cheese and watches and that the Swiss are born hotel keepers with comfort and courtesy as their watchwords.

Non-Swiss tend to dismiss Switzerland as an irrelevance in the broader sweep of European history.

Because the country is peaceful today, the assumption is that it has always been somehow inherently tranquil, but this is an illusion.

Until the middle of the 19th century, Switzerland was the most unstable country in Europe.

The Alpine calm of today came at the price of a millennium of war.

The Swiss may no longer be an offensive force, but they are defensively armed to the teeth.

The Reformation, which began in Germany in the early 16th century, was sparked in Switzerland by a native of the next town down the road….

Above: Map of the Old Swiss Confederacy 1536 showing the religious division

Within a few days I will go to the Papal Legate [Pucci], and if he shall open a conversation on the subject as he did before, I will urge him to warn the Pope not to issue an excommunication [against Luther], for which I think would be greatly against him [the Pope].

For if it be issued I believe the Germans will equally despise the Pope and the excommunication.

But do you be of good cheer, for our day will not lack those who will teach Christ faithfully, and who will give up their lives for Him willingly, even though among men their names shall not be in good repute after this life…

So far as I am concerned I look for all evil from all of them: I mean both ecclesiastics and laymen.

I beseech Christ for this one thing only, that He will enable me to endure all things courageously, and that He break me as a potter’s vessel or make me strong, as it pleased Him.

If I be excommunicated I shall think of the learned and holy Hilary, who was exiled from France to Africa, and of Lucius, who though driven from his seat at Rome returned again with great honour.

Not that I compare myself with them: for as they were better than I so they suffered what was a greater ignominy.

And yet if it were good to flourish I would rejoice to suffer insult for the name of Christ.

But let him that thinketh he standeth take heed lest he fall.

Lately I have read scarcely any thing of Luther’s, but what I have seen of his hitherto does not seem to me to stray from gospel teaching.

You know – if you remember – that what I have always spoken of in terms of the highest commendation in him is that he supports his position with authoritative witness.”

(Huldrych Zwingli)

Ulrich-Zwingli-1.jpg

Above: Portrait of Ulrich Zwingli (1484 – 1531)

Swiss city after city overthrew ecclesiastical overlords in favour of the new Protestantism, with city authorities gaining new power over the countryside in the process.

Zwingli’s attempts in 1531 to reorganize the Confederation under the urban leadership of Zürich and Bern led to armed conflict and the eventual loss of his life in battle.

The Reformation continued to spread, with Geneva – at the time not Swiss – emerging as a major centre for Protestantism, thanks to the zealotry of French priest and Reformer Jean Calvin.

Increasingly the Catholic cantons nurtured an inferiority complex towards the Protestant cities, which held a grip on political authority.

Above: Religious division of the Old Confederacy during the 17th and 18th century

Only shared economic interests keep the Swiss Confederation together.

I have mentioned the textile industry as crucial to the towns we passed through, for it was textiles, among other industries, where merchants in the cities (generally Protestant) supplied raw materials to peasants in the countryside (generally Catholic) who worked up finished products and returned them for trading on.

Wildhaus (population: 1,205) is first mentioned in 1344 as “Wildenhuss“.

In addition to tourism, agriculture and forestry from the economic focus.

The birthplace of the Reformer Huldrych Zwingli, built in 1449, is one of the oldest wooden houses in Switzerland.

(For more on Zwingli and travels following his life, please see:

Canada Slim… 

  • and the Road to Reformation
  • and the Wild Child of Toggenburg
  • and the Thundering Hollows
  • and the Battle for Switzerland’s Soul
  • and the Monks of the Dark Forest
  • and the Battlefield Brotherhood
  • and the Lakeside Pilgrimage

….of my other blog, The Chronicles of Canada Slim at https://canadaslim.wordpress.com.)

Wildhaus is both a summer and winter sports resort.

Two chair lifts and several ski lifts lead to the Gamsalp and the Gamserrugg.

The Obertoggenburg and the Churfirsten ski area, which Wildhaus operated together with Unterwasser and Alt St. Johann until separated by the Cablecar Conflict of 2019.

The 87-kilometre Toggenburger Höhenweg begins in Wildhaus and ends in Will, as does the 60-kilometre long Thurweg.

Wildhaus SG

Above: Wildhaus, Canton St. Gallen

Wildhaus is a place my wife and I have together and apart have repeatedly visited.

I have followed both the Höhenweg and the Thurweg from start to finish.

We have driven to and through Wildhaus.

On this trip we do not tarry but continue swiftly onwards.

Coat of arms of Wildhaus

Above: Coat of arms of Wildhaus

What follows is a place so seductive that an afternoon seems to stand still….

(To be continued….)

Wildhaus SG

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Wikiquote / Wikivoyage / Giovanni Boccaccio, The Decameron / Albert Camus, The Plague / Humphrey Carpenter, The Inklings / Albert M. Debrunner, Literaturführer Thurgau / Rick Steves, Travel as a Political Act / Elizabeth Wurzel, Prozac Nation / Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows