Canada Slim and the Universal Language

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Wednesday 14 December 2022

Go forth.“, the Prophet said.

Perform the march with bow and arrow.

Be in God’s protection and safety.

Receive these good tidings.

Of all the spirits you met in this assembly and whose hands you kissed, you are vouchsafed to visit their tombs.

You will be a world traveller and unique among men.

The well-protected kingdoms through which you pass, the fortresses and towns, the strange and wonderful moments, each land’s praiseworthy qualities and products, its food and drink, its latitude and longitude:

Record all of these and compose a wonderful work.

Make use of my weapon and become my son in this world and the next.

Do not abandon the path of truth.

Be free of envy and hatred.

Pay the due of bread and salt.

Be a faithful friend but no friend to the wicked.

Learn goodness from the good.

Evliya Çelebi, The Book of Travels

Sometimes a man just needs to be surrounded by beauty.

This is why it is nice to work in a school where half the staff and half of our students are female.

This is why it is nice to occasionally see the wife from time to time.

This is why, despite some standards of behaviour exhibited by the locals I could live without, I look forward to visiting Switzerland again at the beginning of next month.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Certainly the wife and I will do a spot of travelling – to Freiburg im Breisgau and Konstanz (Germany) and to Zürich (the New York of Switzerland) – but I am also looking forward to simply strolling upon country roads between the neighbouring village of Münsterlingen to the west of the hamlet (where our residence remains) and Altnau to the east.

Above: Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Rheintorturm (Rhine Gate Tower), Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Oberdorf (Upper Town), Altnau, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

I began, not so long ago, a travelogue of a journey from Landschlacht to Mürren, commencing with Landschlacht itself, for I seek to show my gentle readers that there is magic and depth in even the most mundane (at first glance) of ordinary communities – whether they be in Canada, Switzerland or Vietnam.

Above: Landschlacht (Münsterlingen), Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Mürren, Canton Bern, Switzerland

The first destination the traveller meets in leaving Landschlacht bound for Mürren via the scenic route is Altnau – “the next town over” as one might say in Canada.

Above: Beyond the bend of the highway, beneath the glory of the heavens, Altnau

Altnau is a town (and a municipality in the district of Kreuzlingen in the Canton of Thurgau in Switzerland.

Above: Coat of arms of Altnau

Above: Flag of Canton Thurgau

The Kirchdorf (church settlement) consists of the upper and lower villages and other settlements. 

Above: Swiss Reformed Church, Altnau

It is located on the old Romanshorn – Kreuzlingen Road near the southern shore of the Bodensee (Lake Constance) on the moraine of the former Rhine Glacier. 

Above: Harbour, Romanshorn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Kreuzlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Satellite image of the Bodensee (Lake Constance)

Above: Map of the Rhine Glacier

The actual centre of Altnau is around two kilometers from the shore of the Bodensee, at 471 metres above sea level. 

It borders on the municipalities of Güttingen, Langrickenbach and Münsterlingen. 

Above: Location of Altnau Municipality (in pink)

Altnau has a train station on the Kreuzlingen – Romanshorn railway (or to be precise, the Schaffhausen – Wil rail line).

Above: Altnau Station

Above: Schaffhausen, Canton Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Above: Wil, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

In 787 the village was first mentioned as Althinouva (Aldo’s land by the water).

In the 8th century, the Monastery of St. Gallen was made wealthy here. 

Above: Abbey Cathedral of St. Gallen, St. Gallen, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

In 1155, Emperor Frederick Barbarossa confirmed that the Cathedral in Konstanz owned the property rights to the Altnau court and church. 

Above: (seated) Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa (1122 – 1190)

Above: Konstanz Cathedral

The noble rights over the University of Konstanz lands here, which belonged to the Freiherren (free lords) von Altenklingen around 1300, passed to various Konstanz families in the Late Middle Ages (1378: family Schwarz / 1430: family Tettikofen / 1468 family Mangolt). 

Above: Logo of the University of Konstanz

From 1471 to 1798, Altnau was held by the city of Konstanz. 

Above: Coat of arms of the City of Konstanz

In 1454, Altnau was included in the Appenzeller Landrecht (law courts), but had to give these rights up after a complaint from the Cathedral chapter.

Above: Flag of Appenzell

The parish rights passed in 1347 from the Cathedral Provost to the Cathedral Dean. 

After the Reformation in 1528, the few Catholics that remained here were cared for from Konstanz, with the Altnau church shared between both Catholics and Protestants.

In 1810 the parity relationship was dissolved and two churches were built. 

Above: Martin Luther (1483 – 1546), pioneer of the Protestant Reformation

The rights of the village were first handed down in 1468. 

Above: Aerial view of Altnau (1924)

In the 19th century, farmers switched from three field grain production to livestock and dairy production.

Above: The three-field system of crop rotation

In 1880 a dairy company was established. 

The viticulture (wine industry), which had been in operation since the Middle Ages came to an end in 1912. 

Above: Altnau viticulture

Field fruit growing was documented in the 19th century:

After 1945, the high stems were replaced by extensive low stem cultures. 

Above: Altnau apple production

Like the Lake Road built around 1840, the Lake Rail Line opened in 1870 brought little upswing in the village because the station was too far away. 

All regional trains between Schaffhausen and Wil – via Kreuzlingen, Romanshorn and St.Gallen – stop at Altnau Station. 

Regional trains run every half hour.

Above: Two Thurbo GTW 2/6 crossing the bridge over the Rhine between Schaffhausen and Feuerthalen, Switzerland

Main road number 13 runs between the Town and the Lake, which leads from Schaffhausen via Kreuzlingen and on to Romanshorn and Rorschach.

There is a port, but no pier for scheduled boats on the Bodensee.

 

Above: Rorschach, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Until the middle of the 20th century, the village was heavily agricultural. 

Nevertheless, industry moved in. 

From 1870 to 1910, numerous Altnau residents worked as hand embroiderers, in 1882 and 1910 the Altwegg and Walser embroidery factories were established, and from 1883 to 1967 the Sallmann knitwear factory offered numerous jobs and employed 17 people in 1883, 60 in 1895 and 41 in 1923. 

The Setafil silk weaving mill, which opened in 1948, ceased production in 1974. 

Above: This 1881 painting (by Emil Rittmeyer) shows the embroidery world trade in the second half of the 19th century.

Left: Embroidery patterns, then factories, the locomotive used for transporting the goods, the installation of a telegraph line.

On the right side, the embroidery is presented to the representatives of all continents.

In 1977, a mechanical engineering company set up in the boatyard built in 1964. 

Above: Altnau Boatyard

In 2016, Altnau offered work to 577 people (converted to full-time positions). 

Of these, 12.9% worked in agriculture and forestry, 27.1% in industry, commerce and construction and 59.9% in the service sector. 

Worth mentioning are:

  • the Reformed Church
  • the Catholic Church 
  • the Apfelweg (Apple Trail), the first fruit nature trail in Switzerland, is a nine-kilometre-long circular route that leads through the local orchards and explains the path of the apple from blossom to fruit on 16 boards. 
  • the ship jetty, which has existed since 2010 and is 270 meters long due to the wide shallow water zone – making it the longest jetty on the Bodensee – it is nicknamed the Bodensee Eiffel Tower, because of its length

Above: Altnau Jetty

Above: Tour Eiffel, Paris, France

The Thurgau village of Altnau is surrounded by gently rolling apple orchards.

Altnau has been breeding, cultivating and processing Jonagold, Gala or Braeburn for generations. 

Above: Gala apples

Above: Braeburn apple

Visitors can find out why apples thrive particularly well here at the information boards along the Altnau Apple Trail. 

The revised adventure trail extends the previous fruit trail and can be explored on foot, by bike or in a horse-drawn carriage. 

Game tips and hands-on activities along the routes are aimed specifically at families with children. 

The tour is particularly beautiful during the apple blossom season in spring or harvest time in autumn.

The starting point of the Apple Trail is at the foot of Altnau, 500 meters from the train station. 

The Altnauer Apfelweg consists of three routes that can be combined to form circular routes of five, six or seven kilometres. 

There is an apple mascot for every path:

East of Altnau, the apple path meanders through the apple orchards beneath the bright red “Lisi” apple. 

The 14 stations tell exciting things about fruit growing and the work of the fruit growers all year round. 

The yellow route with the mascot “Fredi” leads through the middle of the village and presents different types of apples and pears. 

With riddles, recipes and anecdotes, every walk flies by. 

On the green “Emma” route west of Altnau, apple fans meet wild and honey bees and learn a lot about the Thurgau fruit region and the history and cultivation of the crunchy fruit. 

On the red and green routes, Lisi and Emma invite the children balancing on tree trunks, looking for fruit pairs or exploring the earth. 

Fredi inspires on the yellow route with variety information, puzzles and fun. 

The themed trail is varied and offers the best conditions for a trip with the whole family.

Apple path Lisi: The red route, four kilometers long, takes about two hours on foot or one hour by bike. It runs east of Altnau, the main focus is the work of the fruit growers.

Apple path Emma: The green, three-kilometre route takes about an hour and a half on foot and 40 minutes by bike. To the west of the village, she reveals interesting facts about fruit growing, the apple village of Altnau and Thurgau.

Apple path Fredi: The yellow route leads right through the village. Pedestrians need about an hour for the two kilometers. The path is not suitable for cyclists.

Farm shops, restaurants and pubs in and around Altnau offer sweet cider, apple rings and other delicious fruit creations. 

If you run out of breath on the way, you can rest on the numerous benches, rest areas and picnic areas along the route – mostly in front of a wonderful panorama of the Bodensee. 

A tip is the Feierlenhof in Altnau, where the Barth family has been welcoming guests to their own farm for several generations. 

A petting zoo delights children and animal lovers alike.

Above: Feierlenhof, Altnau

The Bodensee has always been considered a transport axis for a wide variety of goods, which were transported by barge. 

Since Eastern Switzerland mainly traded in textiles, it was dependent on a functioning trade in food stuffs, mainly grain. 

Due to the fluctuating water level between summer and winter, a summer and a winter landing site had to be built. 

A pier was built near today’s Altnau, the “Stelli“. 

With the onset of industrialization, ship trade became less relevant as the railroad was faster and easier. 

This also had an effect on the shipping trade on the Bodensee.

Winter ports were no longer used by ships, which is why the Stelli was destroyed by the water over time and sank.

Above: Construction of the Altnau Jetty

The Stelli, which can still be seen with the naked eye today, was examined in 2012 by a diving team from the Thurgau Archaeology Office, who measured the remains, had these results recorded and recovered samples for dating tree rings. 

The salvage showed that the Stelli was an L-shape with two legs, each 10 and 25 meters long. 

It consisted of spruce poles, which were fastened with the tops of the bottom of the lake.

Crosspieces and quarry stones were filled in between the posts.

Rorschach sandstone slabs were placed on top.

It is assumed that the origin of the Stelli goes back to the 17th century. 

The shore of the Municipality of Altnau stretches along the Obersee (upper part of the Bodensee) from northwest to southeast. 

The Altnauer Steg (jetty) is at a right angle to this, so it points to the northeast. 

By raising the ridge of the Lake, Altnau Harbour area is covered to the south and west.

Above: Altnau Jetty

The distance to the next town bordering the lake in the northwest, Kreuzlingen, is around 7.5 kilometers and to the next in the southeast, Romanshorn, around 10 kilometers. 

At least six kilometers must be covered to cross the Lake to Hagnau on the German side of the Bodensee.

Above: Hagnau am Bodensee, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

In contrast to other Swiss inland lakes, the Bodensee does not have a uniform shipping company, but rather several different shipping companies. 

This is due to the location of the Bodensee, because this (specifically the Obersee) is shared by the three countries Germany (Deutschland), Switzerland (Schweiz) and Austria (Österreich).

Above: Map of the Bodensee (Lake Constance)

During the shipping season, the Altnauer Jetty is used by the Romanshorn – Immenstaad – Hagnau – Altnau – Güttingen route.

Above: Immenstaad am Bodensee, Baden-Württemberg, Germany (in winter)

Above: Güttingen Castle, Güttingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

For residents of the municipality of Altnau and the surrounding area as well as for tourists, the footbridge serves as a good leisure offer. 

Provided with a bathing platform at the jetty, another one to the east and several descent possibilities, swimming in the Lake is made possible in the summer season. 

In the event of an emergency, rescue equipment for drowning people is distributed on the railing.

In addition, hobby anglers do not want to fish at the jetty.

Above: The way to Hagnau, Altnau Jetty

As early as 1994, a working group from the municipality of Altnau expressed the desire for a new shipping pier. 

The purpose behind this was that the attractiveness of the community should be promoted. 

In Altnau there is a very large campground, which is particularly busy in the height of summer. 

In this season many people in Altnau go to the Lake to swim. 

Altogether there are up to 2,000 people in the vicinity of the port during the warmest time of the year.

A positive factor was that, according to a 2007 study for additional shipping piers on the Bodensee, Altnau was the location between Kreuzlingen and Horn that would have the lowest environmental impact. 

Shipping also benefited from the immediate increase in tourist attractiveness. 

Above: Horn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

At Altnau Harbour in the direction of the middle of the Lake there is a flat shore, which made the construction of such a long jetty necessary. 

The ground was measured and evaluated by means of probing in 2007. 

The Dr. Vollenweider organization divides the ground into three stratified phases:

  • Young lake deposits: Consisting of slightly clay, relatively fine sandy silt loosely layered with a high water concentration. The layer height is between two and three meters on the bank, further away it increases up to ten meters.
  • Postglacial lake deposits: Consisting of strong clay silts with little fine sand soft to slightly resistant. The layer height is about two meters at the bank and increases up to six meters at a greater distance.
  • Moraine: Consisting of little clay, very silty-fine sand with a high proportion of gravel and stones

Above: Harbour, Altnau

The walkable area of ​​the jetty is 398 meters above sea level and therefore around two meters higher than the summer water level. 

A height of 15 centimeters of concrete can be seen on the side.

The maximum height is 35 centimeters. 

The bridge is founded with hollow concrete piles, each with a diameter of 35 centimetres. 

These stand in pairs 12 meters apart. 

While the western stake is driven vertically into the ground, the eastern stake has a 5º inclination.

The moraine, which is not too deep, is responsible for holding and fixing these.

Barriers are installed on both sides along the jetty. 

The two railings vary from each other. 

The western railing is half solid / half transparent, with a guided chrome steel handrail. 

On the one hand, this heavily protected site is intended to provide security.

On the other hand, it is to prevent disturbances to aquatic animals.

The eastern side, on the other hand, is supported only by longitudinal wire cables – no handrail. 

There is a gap in the area of ​​the bathing platform so that access to it is freely possible.

Above: Altnau Jetty

Canton Thurgau Facts:

  • 900 km of marked cycle paths
  • 1,000 km of hiking trails
  • 150 km of inline skating routes
  • 72 km of shoreline on Lake Constance
  • 200 kinds of apples
  • 210,000 standard apple trees
  • 1,600 hectares of orchards

Romping about in flowering meadows, playing knights and experiencing unforgettable farm adventures:

In Thurgau, even young visitors never get bored. 

The idyllic surroundings and a wide range of leisure activities ensure lots of holiday fun. 

With over 72 kilometers of shoreline, Thurgau also has the longest bathing beach on the Bodensee

The landscape is green and flat everywhere – ideal for bike tours with the family.

When swimming, hiking or cycling, holiday guests can feel nature up close. 

The southern part of the Bodensee stretches out in lush greenery:

Meadow orchards let the petals dance in spring.

In autumn the fruit falls heavily onto the grass.

Anyone who drives further up into the hills will experience new perspectives and very special adventures. 

The ancient cultural landscape also harbors a wealth of treasures:

From pile dwellings to Roman forts, medieval chapels and monasteries to imperial parks and gardens.

First-class wines from local winegrowers, fresh fish from the Bodensee and a multitude of other culinary specialties spoil the palate in Thurgau. 

Whether gourmet restaurant, country inn or rustic Buure-Beiz – Thurgau makes connoisseurs’ hearts beat faster. 

Excellent wines also thrive on the vineyard slopes along the Untersee (Lower Lake), the Rhine and also on sunny Ottenberg near Weinfelden. 

The grape variety Müller Thurgau, which is also called Riesling Sylvaner in this country, has its origins in Thurgau.

Let us raise a glass in memory of one of Altnau’s own, Hans Baumgartner.

Hans Baumgartner (1911 – 1996) was a Swiss photographer and teacher.

Above: Hans Baumgartner

Hans Baumgartner was born in Altnau. 

He trained as a teacher at the Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen (teacher training college) and at the University of Zürich.

Above: Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen buildings constructed in the 1970s

Above: Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen in the former Kreuzlingen Monastery

Above: Logo of the University of Zürich

From 1937 until his retirement he worked as a teacher, until 1962 in Steckborn, later in Frauenfeld.

Above: Steckborn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Frauenfeld, capital of Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Baumgartner’s first photographs were taken in 1929.

Above: Zürich (1936), Hans Baumgartner photo

The journalist Arnold Kübler discovered him in the early 1930s. 

Above: Arnold Kübler

(Arnold Kübler (1890 – 1983) was a Swiss writer, draftsman and journalist. 

He founded the cultural magazine Du (you) in 1941.

Arnold Kübler grew up as the son of an innkeeper and farmer in Wiesendangen.

 

Above: Wiesendangen, Canton Zürich, Switzerland (1934)

He broke off his geology studies and training as a sculptor. 

After World War I, he worked as an actor in Dresden and Berlin. 

He had to give up this career in 1926 after an operation due to scars on his face. 

In 1927, he married Alva Jessen (1887 – 1965). 

The couple had three children: Jörn Kübler (1922 – 1975), Olaf Kübler (1924 – 1987) and Ursula Kübler (1928 – 2010). 

Above: Images of Dresden, Sachsen, Germany

Above: Berlin, Germany

Kübler was able to celebrate greater success with his literary and journalistic work. 

He was appointed editor-in-chief of the Zürcher Illustrierte (Zurich Illustrated) in 1929, which under his lead developed into a respected literary and photographic magazine.

He was convinced that a photograph can also be a vehicle of a message. 

He worked with prominent photographers Paul Senn and Gotthard Schuh among others.)

Above: Paul Senn

(Paul Senn (1901 – 1953) was a Swiss photographer.

After attending school in the city of Bern, Senn learned the trade of advertising draftsman and re-toucher around 1917. 

Above: Bern, Switzerland

After completing his education, he worked in various European cities and from 1922 as a graphic artist in Lyon, France. 

Above: Images of Lyon, France

In 1924, he became picture editor at the Basler Nachrichten (Basel News), where his first photos appeared. 

In 1927 and 1928 he stayed in Milan, Genoa, Germany, Belgium, France and Barcelona. 

Above: Images of Milano (Milan), Italy

Above: Piazza de Ferrari, Genova (Genoa), Italy

Above: Flag of Germany

Above: Flag of Belgium

Above: Flag of France

Above: Images of Barcelona, Spain

After these trips he opened his own graphics and advertising studio in Bern. 

In the 1930s, Senn worked as a photo reporter for the Zürcher Illustrierte and the Berner Illustrierte.

Senn traveled to France, Italy, Spain and the Balkans. 

Above: Flag of Italy

Above: Flag of Spain

Above: Map of the Balkan Peninsula

In 1937, Senn accompanied an aid convoy from the Swiss Aid Committee for the Children of Spain to the war zone of the Spanish Civil War and reported on it in a special issue of the Zürcher Illustrierte

Above: Images of the Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939)

In 1939, he travelled to the US.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

During the Second World War, Senn did active service as an army photographer in the Heer und Haus (Army and Home) division.)

Above: Bronze statue “Morning readiness“, erected in 1941 to celebrate the 650th anniversary of the Swiss Confederation in the park of the Federal Archives in Schwyz (Switzerland)

(In order to strengthen the spirit of the troops, Swiss Army General Henri Guisan ordered the formation of the Army and Home section, a kind of psychological service.

This had the task of maintaining the military will of the troops through lectures and entertainment, even during long military service. 

In the army order of 3 November 1939, he wrote: 

It is absolutely necessary that the troops, despite long service and regardless of the separation of family and work, maintain an elevated state of mind. 

Free from nagging doubts and discouragements, the soldier should maintain equanimity and confidence.

With the formula “Think Swiss and act Swiss”, the “civilian reconnaissance service expanded and launched a campaign to educate the civilian population. 

For this purpose, cadres were recruited from around news agencies and resistance organizations.

Above: Henri Guisan (1874 – 1960)

Army and Home tried to strengthen the will to resist in the population and to supplement the role of the war-censored press. 

Firstly, it was about the “communication of facts” from which the citizen should form his own opinion.

Secondly, the “communication of bases for the discussion” as a means of forming opinions in a democracy, in contrast to propaganda, agitation and terror, which are the methods used by totalitarian states to subdue their subjects.

It organized around 3,000 two-day educational courses, as well as lectures, performances, sporting events and film and radio screenings. 

The 200 voluntary speakers came from all political camps, regions and professions. 

For the lecturing activity of the commanders, Army and Home issued military service letters, which not only called for resistance against the totalitarian threat, but also took a stand for the old custom of granting asylum (December 1942) or against anti-Semitism (May 1943). 

More than 7,000 shop stewards recruited in the lectures distributed the documentation published by the Army and Home in their sphere of activity and gave regular feedback on the respective mood in the population.

In the army order of November 1939, Guisan also gave didactic instructions for Army and Home officers and the unit commanders:

I consider it essential that there is a clear separation between serious lectures, which require constant attention, and purely entertaining events. 

The former belong in working hours, the others in leisure time. 

Both are important, sometimes to teach, sometimes to amuse. 

Teaching does not mean imposing any theories, but rather stimulating thoughts and challenging reflections. 

It is a question of showing the team, above all using concrete examples, the tangible and spiritual reality of Switzerland, its honorable past, the military traditions, honoring our heroes, artists, scientists, pointing out the high level of culture that it has achieved and on to indicate their destiny in this world.

For the historian Peter Dürrenmatt and other contemporary observers, between 1941 and 1945, Army and Home made a decisive contribution to maintaining and strengthening intellectual resilience: 

One can say that never before in the history of the Confederation has there been a movement of anything remotely similar in creative unity existed, like those that formed around the Army’s reconnaissance service, around the idea of ​​’Army and Home’.)

Above: Peter Dürrenmatt (1904 – 1989)

(After the Zürcher Illustrierte was forced to cease publication in 1941, Senn worked for the Schweizer Illustrierte (Switzerland Illustrated) and for Sie + Er (She and He). 

From 1942 to 1944, Senn travelled to southern France several times and reported on the activities of Swiss relief organizations and the construction work in Lyon. 

Above: Lyon, France

After the end of the war in 1945, Paul Senn travelled to the European war zones on behalf of the Swiss Red Cross and the Swiss Donation to War Victims, taking photographs in France and Germany.

Above: Logo of the Swiss Donation

In 1946, Senn stayed in the US for Schweizer Illustrierte, visiting New York and the Swiss Colonies. 

Above: Harlem, New York City, New York, USA (1946) – Paul Senn photograph

(Most immigration from Switzerland took place mainly in the second half of the 19th century. 

The reasons for this were mostly economic in nature, Switzerland was considered one of the poorest countries in Europe at the time.

By 1820, around 25,000 Swiss had immigrated, mainly with the destination of Pennsylvania and the Carolinas. 

Above: Swiss migrants in the US (1946), Paul Senn photograph

In general, the target in the 19th century was the Midwest and the Pacific coast. 

The Italian-speaking Swiss preferred California. 

Some Swiss settlements were established, such as New Glarus (Wisconsin), Gruetli-Laager (Tennessee) and New Bern (North Carolina)(“the birthplace of Pepsi“). )

Above: Flag throwing and Alphorn blowing, New Glarus, Wisconsin, USA

Above: Historical marker, Gruetli-Laager, Tennessee, USA

Above: City Hall, New Bern, North Carolina, USA

Above: Classroom scene, New Bern

In 1947, Senn went to Finland and Germany at the invitation of the Swiss Donation and documented the reconstruction. 

Above: Flag of Finland

In 1950, trips to Germany, France, Italy and England followed. 

Above: Flag of England

In 1951, he founded the College of Swiss Photographers with Werner Bischof, Gotthard Schuh and Jakob Tuggener. 

In 1952 he became a member of the Schweizerischer Werkbund (SWB) (Swiss Work Association) (an association of artists, cultural mediators and other specialists in the field of design).

On 25 April 1953, Senn died of cancer in the Zieglerspital in Bern.)

Above: Zieglerspital (1868 – 2015), Bern, Switzerland

(Gotthard Schuh (1897 – 1969) was a Swiss photographer, painter and graphic artist.

Above: Gotthard Schuh

Gotthard Schuh was born in Berlin to Swiss parents. 

His father was the engineer Christian Heinrich Schuh. 

In 1902 the family moved to Aarau, where he attended school.

Above: Aarau, Canton Aargau, Switzerland

From 1914, he began to paint. 

In 1916, he graduated from the trade school (now the site of the Basel Trade Museum) in Basel. 

Above: Gewerbemuseum, Basel, Switzerland

In 1917, Schuh was drafted as a soldier for border service until the end of the First World War.

Above: Kilometre Zero -where the Swiss border met the Western Front, World War I (1914 – 1918)

From 1919, he lived as a painter in Basel and Geneva. 

Above: Basel, Switzerland

Above: Genève (Geneva), Switzerland

After a long trip to Italy in 1920, he settled in Munich as a painter. 

Above: München (Munich), Bayern (Bavaria), Germany

In 1926, he returned to Switzerland and became manager of a photo shop.

After his marriage in 1927 he moved to Zürich, where he began to take photographs. 

Various exhibitions as a painter followed from 1928 to 1931, during which time he joined the Basel artist group Rot-Blau (red-blue). 

Above: Albert Müller (1897 – 1926)(Rot-Blau), Vineyards in Ticino (1925)

In 1931 his first photos were published in the Zürcher Illustrierte.

 

Above: Gotthard Schuh photograph of Swiss author Friedrich Glauser (1896 – 1938), Zürcher Illustrierte, (3 December 1937)

A picture exhibition followed in Paris in 1932, where he met Pablo Picasso, Fernand Léger and Georges Braque.

Above: Spanish artist Pablo Picasso (1881 – 1973)

Above: French artist Fernand Léger (1881 – 1955)

Above: French artist Georges Braque (1882 – 1963)

From 1933 to 1939, Schuh worked as a freelance photojournalist for the Zürcher Illustrierte, Berliner Illustriete (1892 – 1945), Paris Match and Life (1883 – 2000). 

His reports took him all over Europe and to Indonesia. 

Above: Flag of the European Union

Above: Flag of Indonesia

From 1941 to 1960 he was picture editor at the Neue Züricher Zeitung (NZZ). 

From this period a significant part of his own photographic work illustrated books, of which the most successful was Inseln der Götter (Island of the Gods) published in 1941, the result of his almost 11-month journey through Singapore, Java, Sumatra and Bali undertaken just before the war. 

It was a mixture of reportage and self-reflection, with a poetic quality that, though individual images may be read either way, Schuh sometimes valued over documentary authenticity:

Everyone just depicts what he sees.

Everyone just sees what corresponds to his being.

In 1951, he founded the College of Swiss Photographers together with Werner Bischof, Paul Senn and Jakob Tuggener.

After 1960, Schuh turned to painting again. 

Schuh died in Küsnacht by the Zürchersee (Lake Zurich) in 1969.)

Above: Küsnacht, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

(Werner Bischof (1916 – 1954) was a Swiss photographer and one of the most famous photojournalists of the 20th century.

Above: Werner Bischof

Bischof, son of a merchant, grew up first in Zürich and Kilchberg (Canton Zürich) in Switzerland, but spent his school days in Waldshut (Germany). 

Above: Kilchberg, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Kaiserstrasse (Emperor Street), Waldshut, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

His father had been manager of a branch of a Zürich pharmaceutical factory there since 1922. 

This time was overshadowed by the early death of his mother. 

He attended teachers’ college in Schiers (Canton Graubünden) to become a drawing and physical education teacher. 

Above: Evangelische Mittelschule (EMS), Schiers, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

At the age of 16, Bischof switched to studying at the Zürich School of Applied Arts. 

In 1936, he received his diploma with distinction as a photographer and, after basic training with the Swiss Army, opened in Zürich a studio for fashion and advertising photography. 

After interludes as an employee at a Zurich publishing house, a freelance artist for the Swiss National Exhibition in 1939 and a graphic designer in Paris, he was drafted into military service in Switzerland in 1939. 

In short phases between military deployments, he devoted himself to photographing natural motifs.

In 1942, Bischof published his first photos in the then new monthly magazine Du.

In autumn 1945, he traveled to southern Germany, France and the Netherlands.

He was deeply moved by the hardship in the regions badly affected by the Second World War. 

On behalf of the Swiss Donation he reported on the victims of war-destroyed Europe.

Above: Boy drawing in the ruins, Freiburg im Breisgau, Werner Bischof photographer

In 1948, Bischof represented Time magazine at the St. Moritz Winter Olympics. 

In 1949, his documentary photographs were published in Life magazine.

Bischof joined the newly formed photographers’ cooperative Magnum Photos. 

From 1951, he traveled to the Middle East (famine in Bihar, India) and the Far East (Japan and Korea). 

Above: Seal of the Indian state of Bihar

Above: Flag of Japan

Above: Flag of South Korea

He was a war correspondent for Paris Match magazine during the Indochina War (1946 – 1954). 

Above: French Foreign Legionnaires with a suspected Viet Minh supporter

In 1953, he began a journey through the American continent that had been planned for a long time, visiting and photographing Mexico and Panama and Peru.

Above: Flag of Mexico

Above: Flag of Panama

Above: Flag of Peru

The following year, on 16 May 1954, his SUV crashed into a Peruvian river at Pena de Aguila Andes down a slope.

Bischof was killed.

Above: Pena de Aguila, Peru

In his relatively short life, Werner Bischof was highly productive and dedicated. 

He created a work of 60,000 photographs. 

With his fascinating compositions of light and shadow, Bischof made a name for himself early on as a studio and advertising photographer. 

But when he was able to travel through devastated Europe after the end of the Second World War, his pictures described the suffering and destructiveness of the war with oppressive urgency. 

Above: Two girls inside a church destroyed by the war. Friedrichshafen (Germany). 1945, Werner Bischof photograph

Above: A man looking at the city in ruins. Frankfurt (Germany). 1946 – Werner Bischof photograph

Above: A man walking through the destroyed city searching for food in Freiburg im Breisgau (Germany). 1945 – Werner Bischof photograph

His motto now became:

It is not important to make an art out of photography as in the old sense, but rather the deep social responsibility of the photographer, who does a job with the given elementary photographic means that cannot be done with other means would be able to afford. 

This work must become the unadulterated document of temporal reality.

Above: A view of the Thames River from Westminster Abbey in London. 1950 – Werner Bischof photograph

With this in mind, Bischof created images that show bitter poverty and deep suffering, but are also documents of the inner strength and willpower of the people depicted. 

The superficiality and sensationalism of the editorial business repelled him, but he was mostly sent to crisis areas. 

Despite the external circumstances, the love for people and the love for the cause are always visible in Bischof’s photographs.

Aesthetic feeling, elementary formative power and human commitment combined with him to an inner unity.

One of his most famous pictures shows a boy playing the flute walking along a precipice. 

Bischof took the picture in Peru in 1954. 

The NZZ called the picture “an icon of photojournalism“. 

Werner Bischof was a photographer personality who, after the Second World War, photographed the trouble spots of this world with the eye of a poet and the awareness of a politician.”)

Showing the shadows of poverty and despair, tempered with his desire to travel the world, Bischof conveyed the beauty of nature and humanity.

I felt compelled to venture forth and explore the true face of the world.

Leading a satisfying of plenty has blinded many of us to the immense hardships beyond our borders.

Above: A pleasant sleep – Werner Bischof photograph

(Jakob Tuggener (1904 – 1988) was a Swiss photographer.

Above: Jakob Tuggener?

Tuggener did an apprenticeship as a mechanical draftsman in Zurich. 

In 1930 – 1931 he studied graphics, typography, drawing, window dressing and film at the Reimann School in Berlin (then the largest private arts and crafts school in Germany). 

His work at that time was published in the school magazine Farb und Form (Colour and Form). 

Above: Reimann Art School (1902 – 1940), Berlin, Germany

After his return to Switzerland he worked as an industrial photographer. 

In 1934, Tuggener bought a Leica camera and took his first photographs at the Grand Bal Russe (Russian ball) in Zürich. 

The subject of dance balls would not let him go for two decades. 

The glories of nightlife enchanted him with their alabaster light illuminating a fairy tale of women and flowing silk.

Above: ACS Ball Grand Hotel Dolder, 1948 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

He photographed balls in Zürich’s Grand Hotel Dolder and the Hotel Baur au Lac, St. Moritz’s Palace Hotel, and the Vienna (Wien) Opera Ball. 

Above: Dolder Grand Hotel, Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Hotel Baur au Lac, Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Palace Hotel, St. Moritz, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

Above: Vienna State Opera, Wien (Vienna), Austria

He also devoted himself to topics such as country life and technology.

Above: Untitled, Oeschgen, Canton Aargau, Switzerland, 1942 Jakob Tuggener photograph

Above: Plant entrance, Oerlikon Machine Factory, Canton Zürich, Switzerland, 1934 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

In 1943, Tuggener made his breakthrough into avant-garde Swiss photography with his book Factory: a photographic essay on the relationship between man and machine

Above: Grande Dixence power station, Canton Valais, Switzerland, 1942 – Jakob Tuggener photograph

Above: Barrage de la Grande Dixence, Lac des Dix reservoir, Canton Valais, Switzerland

After the Second World War, his pictures were shown in the New York Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) and published in the magazines Leica-Foto and Du, among others. 

Above: Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York City, New York, USA

In 1949, the new editor of Camera magazine, Walter Laubli (1902 – 1991), published a substantial portfolio of Jakob Tuggener’s pictures made at upper-class entertainments and in factories, a world familiar to him from his early apprenticeship as a technical draftsman in Zürich, as well as a series of stills from his silent films, with an introduction by Hans Kasser (1907 – 1978), himself a photographer and member of the Werkbund.

Alongside Tuggener’s work, Camera presented the 25-year-old Robert Frank, who had just returned to his native Switzerland  after two years abroad, with pages including some of his first pictures from New York.

The magazine promoted the two as representatives of the ‘new photography’ of Switzerland.

Above: Cover of the 1st issue of Camera magazine, July 1922

Tuggener was a role model for Frank, first mentioned to him by his boss and mentor, Zurich commercial photographer Michael Wolgensinger (1913–1990).

Tuggener, as a serious artist who had left the commercial world behind, was the “one Frank really did love, from among all Swiss photographers”. 

Fabrik, as a photo book, was a model for Frank’s Les Américains (1958).

A first major exhibition of Tuggener’s “Ball Nights” pictures took place in Munich in 1969. 

In 1951, Tuggener founded the College of Swiss Photographers with Werner Bischof, Gotthard Schuh and Paul Senn.

Above: Ball Nights photograph, Jakob Tuggener

The “pictorial poet” Tuggener is regarded as a representative of social documentary photography, one of the most important areas of photographic art. 

For Tuggener, people, truth and the concern for social justice were at the centre of his work. 

His work is characterized by the interplay of the artistic media of painting, photography and film with the three main themes of work in the factory, life in the country, and glamorous balls in magnificent hotels. 

He created expressive photography and knew how to assemble radical sections and dynamic perspectives into film-like series of images. 

As with a moving camera, he captured the “pulse of life” and condensed fleeting moments into a poetic overall view.

In 1950, Tuggener wrote: 

The photographer as an expressionist does not exist in the commercial register. 

He is the freest and free. 

Detached from all purpose, he only photographs the pleasure of his experience.

Above: Work in the boiler (1935), Jakob Tuggener photograph

His archive is in the Fotomuseum in Winterthur.)

Above: Fotomuseum, Winterthur, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

(Robert Frank (1924 – 2019) was a Swiss photographer and documentary filmmaker, who became an American bi-national.

Above: Robert Frank

His most notable work, the 1958 book titled The Americans, earned Frank comparisons to a modern-day Alexis de Tocqueville (1805 – 1889) for his fresh and nuanced outsider’s view of American society.

Above: French political philosopher Alexis de Tocqueville

Critic Sean O’Hagan, writing in The Guardian in 2014, said The Americans

“‘The Americanschanged the nature of photography, what it could say and how it could say it.

It remains perhaps the most influential photography book of the 20th century.

Above: Sean O’Hagan

Frank later expanded into film and video and experimented with manipulating photographs and photomontage.

Above: Robert Frank, “Couple/Paris” 1952

Frank was born in Zürich, Switzerland, the son of Rosa (Zucker) and Hermann Frank.

His family was Jewish.

Robert states in Gerald Fox’s 2004 documentary Leaving Home, Coming Home that his mother, Rosa (other sources state her name as Regina), had a Swiss passport, while his father, Hermann originating from Frankfurt, Germany had become stateless after losing his German citizenship as a Jew.

They had to apply for the Swiss citizenship of Robert and his older brother, Manfred.

Though Frank and his family remained safe in Switzerland during World War II, the threat of Nazism nonetheless affected his understanding of oppression.

Above: Flag of the National Socialist Party (1920 – 1945)

He turned to photography, in part as a means to escape the confines of his business-oriented family and home, and trained under a few photographers and graphic designers before he created his first hand-made book of photographs, 40 Fotos, in 1946. 

Frank emigrated to the US in 1947.

He secured a job in New York City as a fashion photographer for Harper’s Bazaar.

In 1949, the new editor of Camera magazine, Walter Laubli, published a substantial portfolio of Jakob Tuggener  pictures made at upper-class entertainments and in factories, alongside the work of the 25 year-old Frank who had just returned to his native Switzerland after two years abroad, with pages including some of his first pictures from New York.

The magazine promoted the two as representatives of the ‘new photography‘ of Switzerland.

Tuggener was a role model for the younger artist, first mentioned to him by Frank’s boss and mentor, Zürich commercial photographer Michael Wolgensinger (1913 – 1990) who understood that Frank was unsuited to the more mercenary application of the medium.

Tuggener, as a serious artist, had left the commercial world behind.

Above: Michael Wolgensinger

Frank soon left to travel in South America and Europe.

He created another handmade book of photographs that he shot in Peru, and returned to the US in 1950.

That year was momentous for Frank:

He participated in the group show 51 American Photographers at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA).

He married fellow artist Mary Lockspeiser, with whom he had two children, Andrea and Pablo.

Though he was initially optimistic about US society and culture, Frank’s perspective quickly changed as he confronted the fast pace of American life and what he saw as an overemphasis on money.

He now saw America as an often bleak and lonely place, a perspective that became evident in his later photography.

Frank’s own dissatisfaction with the control that editors exercised over his work also undoubtedly colored his experience.

Above: Robert Frank, “Trolley —New Orleans”, 1955

He continued to travel, moving his family briefly to Paris. 

Above: Robert Frank, “Tulip/Paris” 1950

In 1953, he returned to New York and continued to work as a freelance photojournalist for magazines, including McCall’s, Vogue and Fortune.

Associating with other contemporary photographers, he helped form the New York School of Photographers during the 1940s and 1950s.

In 1955, Frank achieved further recognition with the inclusion of seven of his photographs (many more than most other contributors) in the world-touring MoMA exhibition The Family of Man that was to be seen by 9 million visitors and with a popular catalogue that is still in print.

Frank’s contributions had been:

  • in Spain of a woman kissing her swaddled babe-in-arms
  • of a bowed old woman in Peru
  • a rheumy-eyed miner in Wales
  • others in England and the US, including two (one atypically soft-focus) of his wife in pregnancy; and one (later to be included in The Americans) of six laughing women in the window of the White Tower Hamburger Stand on Fourteenth Street, New York City.

Inspired by fellow Swiss Jakob Tuggener’s 1943 filmic book Fabrik, Bill Brandt’s The English at Home (1936) and Walker Evans’ American Photographs (1938), Frank secured a Guggenheim Fellowship in 1955 to travel across the United States and photograph all strata of its society.

Cities he visited included: 

  • Detroit, Michigan
  • Dearborn, Michigan  
  • Savannah, Georgia
  • Miami Beach, Florida
  • St. Petersburg, Florida  
  • New Orleans, Louisiana 
  • Houston, Texas 
  • Los Angeles, California 
  • Reno, Nevada
  • Salt Lake City, Utah
  • Butte, Montana
  • Chicago, Illinois.

Above: Detroit, Michigan, USA

Above: Dearborn, Michigan, USA

Above: Savannah, Georgia, USA

Above: Miami Beach, Florida, USA

Above: St. Petersburg, Florida, USA

Above: New Orleans, Louisiana, USA

Above: Houston, Texas, USA

Above: Los Angeles, California, USA

Above: Reno, Nevada, USA

Above: Images of Salt Lake City, Utah, USA

Above: Images of Butte, Montana, USA

Above: Chicago, Illinois, USA

He took his family along with him for part of his series of road trips over the next two years, during which time he took 28,000 shots.

83 of these were selected by him for publication in The Americans.

Frank’s journey was not without incident.

He later recalled the anti-Semitism to which he was subject in a small Arkansas town.

I remember the policeman took me into the police station.

He sat there and put his feet on the table.

It came out that I was Jewish because I had a letter from the Guggenheim Foundation.

They really were primitive.

He was told by the sheriff:

Well, we have to get somebody who speaks Yiddish.”

They wanted to make a thing out of it.

It was the only time it happened on the trip.

They put me in jail.

It was scary.

Nobody knew where I was.

Above: State flag of Arkansas

Elsewhere in the South, he was told by a sheriff that he had “an hour to leave town“.

Those incidents may have contributed to the dark view of America found in the work.

Above: The states in dark red compose the Deep South today.

Adjoining areas of Texas and North Florida are also considered part of this subregion.

Shortly after returning to New York in 1957, Frank met Beat writer Jack Kerouac “at a New York party where poets and Beatniks were,” and showed him the photographs from his travels.

However, according to Joyce Johnson, Kerouac’s lover at the time, she met Frank while waiting for Kerouac to emerge from a conference with his editors, at Viking Press, looked at Frank’s portfolio, and introduced them to each other. 

Kerouac immediately told Frank:

Sure I can write something about these pictures.

He eventually contributed the introduction to the US edition of The Americans.

Above: Jack Kerouac (1922 – 1969)

Frank also became lifelong friends with Beat poet Allen Ginsberg.

Above: Allen Ginsberg (1926 – 1997)

Frank was one of the main visual artists to document the Beat subculture, who felt an affinity with Frank’s interest in documenting the tensions between the optimism of the 1950s and the realities of class and racial differences.

The irony that Frank found in the gloss of American culture and wealth over this tension gave his photographs a clear contrast to those of most contemporary American photojournalists, as did his use of unusual focus, low lighting and cropping that deviated from accepted photographic techniques.

This divergence from contemporary photographic standards gave Frank difficulty at first in securing an American publisher. 

Les Américains was first published in 1958 by Robert Delpire in Paris, as part of its Encyclopédie Essentielle series, with texts by Simone de Beauvoir, Erskine Caldwell, William Faulkner, Henry Miller and John Steinbeck that Delpire positioned opposite Frank’s photographs. 

Above: French writer Simone de Beauvoir (1908 – 1986)

Above: American writer Erskine Caldwell (1903 – 1987)

Above: American writer William Faulkner (1897 – 1962)

Above: American writer Henry Miller (1891 – 1980)

Above: American writer John Steinbeck (1902 – 1968)

It was finally published in 1959 in the US, without the texts, by Grove Press, where it initially received substantial criticism. 

Above: Logo of Grove Press

Popular Photography derided his images as “meaningless blur, grain, muddy exposures, drunken horizons and general sloppiness“.

Though sales were also poor at first, the fact that the introduction was by the popular Kerouac helped it reach a larger audience.

Over time and through its inspiration of later artists, The Americans became a seminal work in American photography and art history.

It is the work with which Frank is most clearly identified.

Critic Sean O’Hagan, writing in The Guardian in 2014, said:

It is impossible to imagine photography’s recent past and overwhelmingly confusing present without his lingeringly pervasive presence.

Above: “Mr. and Mrs. Feiertag/Late afternoon“, Robert Frank, from the photo essay “People You Don’t See (series),” 1951

In 1961, Frank received his first individual show, entitled Robert Frank: Photographer, at the Art Institute of Chicago.

He also showed at MoMA in New York in 1962.

Above: Art Institute of Chicago, Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois, USA

The French journal Les cahiers de la photographie devoted special issues 11 and 12 in 1983 to discussion of Robert Frank as a gesture of admiration for, and complicity with, his work, also to set forth his critical capacity as an artist.

To mark the 50th anniversary of the first publication of The Americans, a new edition was released worldwide on May 30, 2008.

For this new edition, most photographs are uncropped (in contrast to the cropped versions in previous editions).

Two photographs are replaced with those of the same subject but from an alternate perspective.

Above: Robert Frank, “Covered car — Long Beach, California”, 1956

A celebratory exhibit of The Americans, titled Looking In: Robert Frank’s The Americans, was displayed in 2009 at the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA), and at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Above: National Gallery of Art, Washington DC, USA

Above: Museum of Modern Art, San Francisco, California, USA

Above: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City, New York, USA

An accompanying book, also titled Looking In: Robert Frank’s The Americans, was published, the most in-depth examination of any photography book ever, at 528 pages.

While working as a guard at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Jason Eskenazi asked other noted photographers visiting the Looking In exhibition to choose their favorite image from The Americans and explain their choice, resulting in the book, By the Glow of the Jukebox: The Americans List.

Though Frank continued to be interested in film and video, he returned to still images in the 1970s, publishing his second photographic book, The Lines of My Hand, in 1972.

This work has been described as a “visual autobiography“, and consists largely of personal photographs.

However, he largely gave up “straight” photography to instead create narratives out of constructed images and collages, incorporating words and multiple frames of images that were directly scratched and distorted on the negatives.

None of this later work has achieved an impact comparable to that of The Americans. 

In contrast to The Americans, Frank’s later images simply were not beyond the pale of accepted technique and practice by that time.

By the time The Americans was published in the US in 1959, Frank had moved away from photography to concentrate on filmmaking.

Among his films was the 1959 Pull My Daisy, which was written and narrated by Kerouac and starred Ginsberg and others from the Beat circle.

The Beats emphasized spontaneity.

The film conveyed the quality of having been thrown together or even improvised.

Pull My Daisy was accordingly praised for years as an improvisational masterpiece, until Frank’s co-director, Alfred Leslie, revealed in a 28 November 1968 article in the Village Voice that the film was actually carefully planned, rehearsed, and directed by him and Frank, who shot the film with professional lighting.

In 1960, Frank stayed in Pop artist George Segal’s basement while filming The Sin of Jesus.

Above: American artist George Segal (1924 – 2000)

Isaac Babel’s story was transformed to center on a woman working on a chicken farm in New Jersey.

Above: Russian writer Isaac Babel (1894 – 1940)

It was originally supposed to be filmed in six weeks in and around New Brunswick, Canada, but Frank ended up shooting for six months.

Above: Flag of the Canadian province of New Brunswick

Frank’s 1972 documentary of the Rolling Stones is arguably his best known film.

The film shows the Stones on tour, engaging in heavy drug use and group sex.

Frank said of the Stones:

It was great to watch them — the excitement.

But my job was after the show.

What I was photographing was a kind of boredom.

It’s so difficult being famous.

It’s a horrendous life.

Everyone wants to get something from you.” 

Mick Jagger reportedly told Frank:

It’s a good film, Robert, but if it shows in America we’ll never be allowed in the country again.

The Stones sued to prevent the film’s release.

It was disputed whether Frank as the artist or the Stones as those who hired the artist owned the copyright.

A court order restricted the film to being shown no more than five times per year, and only in the presence of Frank.

Frank’s photography also appeared on the cover of the Rolling Stones’ album Exile on Main Street.

Above: Album cover, The Rolling Stones, Exile on Main Street

Other films by Frank include: 

  • Me and My Brother
  • Keep Busy
  • Candy Mountain

Frank and Mary separated in 1969.

He remarried, to sculptor June Leaf.

Above: American artist June Leaf

In 1971, they moved to the community of Mabou, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada. 

Above: Mabou, Nova Scotia, Canada

In 1974, his daughter, Andrea, was killed in a plane crash in Tikal, Guatemala.

In 1995, in memory of his daughter he founded the Andrea Frank Foundation, which provides grants to artists.

Above: Mayan Temple 1, Tikal, Guatemala

Also around this time, his son, Pablo, was first hospitalized and diagnosed with schizophrenia.

Much of Frank’s subsequent work dealt with the impact of the loss of both his daughter and subsequently his son, who died in an Allentown, Pennsylvania hospital in 1994.

Above: Images of Allentown, Pennsylvania, USA

Well, we’re living here in Allentown
And they’re closing all the factories down
Out in Bethlehem they’re killing time
Filling out forms
Standing in line
Well, our fathers fought the Second World War
Spent their weekends on the Jersey Shore
Met our mothers in the USO
Asked them to dance
Danced with them slow
And we’re living here in Allentown

But the restlessness was handed down
And it’s getting very hard to stay

Well, we’re waiting here in Allentown
For the Pennsylvania we never found
For the promises our teachers gave
If we worked hard
If we behaved
So the graduations hang on the wall
But they never really helped us at all
No, they never taught us what was real
Iron and coke
And chromium steel
And we’re waiting here in Allentown

But they’ve taken all the coal from the ground
And the union people crawled away

Every child had a pretty good shot
To get at least as far as their old man got
But something happened on the way to that place
They threw an American flag in our face

Well, I’m living here in Allentown
And it’s hard to keep a good man down
But I won’t be getting up today

And it’s getting very hard to stay
And we’re living here in Allentown

After his move to Nova Scotia, Canada, Frank divided his time between his home there, in a former fisherman’s shack on the coast, and his Bleeker Street loft in New York.

He acquired a reputation for being a recluse (particularly since the death of Andrea), declining most interviews and public appearances.

Above: Robert Frank address, 7 Bleecker Street, Manhattan, New York City, New York, USA

He continued to accept eclectic assignments, however, such as photographing the 1984 Democratic National Convention, and directing music videos for artists such as New Order (“Run“) and Patti Smith (“Summer Cannibals“).

Above: Logo of the US Democratic Party

Above: Front cover for the single Summer Cannibals by Patti Smith

Frank produced both films and still images, and helped organize several retrospectives of his art.

His work has been represented by Pace/MacGill Gallery in New York since 1984.

In 1994, the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC presented the most comprehensive retrospective of Frank’s work to date, entitled Moving Out.

Anthony works in the grocery store
Savin’ his pennies for someday
Mama Leone left a note on the door
She said, “Sonny, move out to the country”
Workin’ too hard can give you
A heart attack (ack, ack, ack, ack, ack)
You oughta know by now (oughta know)
Who needs a house out in Hackensack
Is that what you get for your money?

It seems such a waste of time
If that’s what it’s all about
Mama, if that’s movin’ up
Then I’m movin’ out
I’m movin’ out

Sergeant O’Leary is walkin’ the beat
At night he becomes a bartender
He works at Mister Cacciatore’s down
On Sullivan Street
Across from the medical center
He’s tradin’ in his Chevy for a Cadillac (ack, ack, ack, ack, ack)
You oughta know by now
And if he can’t drive
With a broken back
At least he can polish the fenders

It seems such a waste of time
If that’s what it’s all about
Mama, if that’s movin’ up
Then I’m movin’ out
I’m movin’ out

You should never argue with a crazy mind (mi-, mi-, mi-, mi-, mi-)
You oughta know by now
You can pay Uncle Sam with the overtime
Is that all you get for your money
If that’s what you have in mind
If that’s what you’re all about
Good luck movin’ up
‘Cause I’m moving out
I’m moving out (mmm)
Ou, ou, uh huh (mmm)

I’m moving out

Frank died on 9 September 2019, at his home in Nova Scotia.

Above: Robert Frank home, Mabou, Nova Scotia

Let us return back to Switzerland and Arnold Kübler…..

Above: Arnold Kübler, editor of the Zürcher Illustrierte

(Under Kübler, in the literary section, works by Hermann Hesse and Max Frisch were included.

Above: German writer Hermann Hesse (1877 – 1962)

Above: Swiss writer Max Frisch (1911 – 1991)

In 1941, Conzett & Huber decided to sell the Zürcher Illustrierte and publish a new magazine with which they planned to promote the multi-color print they have developed.

Arnold Kübler became the editor-in-chief of the newly founded cultural magazine Du, which he ran for 16 years.

Under Kübler’s leadership, Du became a well respected cultural magazine, employing prominent photographers and focused on painters like Pablo Picasso, Joan Miro and Paul Klee.

Above: Spanish artist Joan Miro (1893 – 1983)

Above: Swiss artist Paul Klee (1879 – 1940)

Kübler was active in his positions as a cultural mediator and source of inspiration, but did not neglect his own artistic forms of expression:

In the 1960s he returned to the theatre stage with great success as a one-man cabaret.

In addition, Kübler was active in drawing and writing, which he was able to combine in several of his books, for example, in the travelogue Paris – Bâle à pied (Paris to Basel on foot) – Report and drawings of a 500 km journey on foot in 28 days (1967). 

In his Öppi novels, Kübler described autobiographical events on more than 2,000 pages.

Kübler’s works:

  • The Failed Actor (1934)
  • The Heart, the Corner, the Donkey, and Other Stories (1939)
  • Öppi from Wasenwachs: The boy without a mother (1943)
  • Öppi the student (1947)
  • Öppi and Eve (1951)
  • Velodyssey: A sporting epic (1955)
  • In Alfred Hüggenberger’s country: A winter journey with drawings (1958)
  • Mitenand, gägenenand, durenand: A picture book of how to treat your neighbor in Switzerland (1959)
  • Zurich experienced, drawn, explained (1960)
  • 48 cheerful stories (1961)
  • The dare: A Zürich booklet about Basel (1961)
  • Sites and cities: Experienced, drawn, explained (1963)
  • Öppi the fool (1964)
  • Draw, Antonio! (1966)
  • Babette, best regards: Predominantly true accounts and drawings (1967)
  • Paris – Bâle à pied: Report and drawings of a 500 km journey on foot in 28 days (1967)
  • Say & write! – A humorous cabaret autobiographical contribution to the cultural history of the city of Zürich (1969)
  • Israel: a look – Report with drawings (1970)
  • Stay: Mostly cheerful reports with drawings (1974) )

Above: Original German language version of Arnold Kübler’s The Failed Actor

(Alfred Huggenberger (1867 – 1960) (aka Dr. Hans Meyerlein) was a Swiss writer. 

Above: Alfred Huggenberger

With his numerous farces, stories and poems, both in standard German and in his Eastern Swiss dialect, he became known beyond Switzerland.

Alfred Huggenberger was born the son of a farmer in Bewangen (Canton Zürich) near the border of Canton Thurgau. 

Above: Village school with clock tower, Bertschikon bei Attikon, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

At the age of 29, he took over his parents’ farm, which burned down, due to arson, in 1904. 

Together with his wife Bertha and their daughter, Huggenberger moved to neighboring Gerlikon (Canton Thurgau) in 1908, where he took over a smaller farm that gave him more time for his literary work.

Above: St. George Chapel, Gerlikon, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Alfred Huggenberger began writing early on. 

He made his literary breakthrough beyond the Swiss border in 1907 with the book Hinterm Pflug (Behind the Plough) supported by well-known authors, such as Hermann Hesse. 

During the National Socialist era, he was used by the Nazis to propagate blood and soil literature.

(Blood and soil literature is the contrast between town and country, with the city embodying the concepts of democracy, liberalism, modernism and individualism as negative values, and the rural countryside, with its naturalness.

A sense of community and an anti-progress ideal represented the supposedly positive pole. 

Blood and soil literature differs from other streams of Nazi fiction in its glorification of country life, nature and the return to nature.)

Above: Coat of arms of the German Reich (1935 – 1945)

(I never cease to be amazed by how the Nazis could take something wonderful and convert it into something terrible.

For example, the swastika is a millennia-old sacred symbol in Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism that represents peace and good fortune, but in the West, it remains equated to Adolf Hitler’s hooked cross (Hakenkreuz).

Happily, calls to reclaim the swastika as a sacred symbol become louder.

Above: Hindu Swastika

Another example is Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche (1844 – 1900), a German philosopher, prose poet, cultural critic and philologist, whose work has exerted a profound influence on contemporary philosophy.

Nietzsche’s writing spans philosophical polemics, poetry, cultural criticism and fiction while displaying a fondness for aphorism and irony.

Prominent elements of his philosophy include:

  • his radical critique of truth in favor of perspectivism
  • a genealogical critique of religion and Christian morality and a related theory of master – slave morality
  • the aesthetic affirmation of life in response to both the “death of God” and the profound crisis of nihilism
  • the notion of Apollonian and Dionysian forces
  • a characterization of the human subject as the expression of competing wills, collectively understood as the will to power

He also developed influential concepts such as the Übermensch (Superman) and his doctrine of eternal return.

In his later work, he became increasingly preoccupied with the creative powers of the individual to overcome cultural and moral mores in pursuit of new values and aesthetic health.

His body of work touched a wide range of topics, including:

  • art
  • philology
  • history
  • music
  • religion
  • tragedy
  • culture
  • science 

After his death, Nietzsche’s sister Elisabeth became the curator and editor of his manuscripts.

She edited his unpublished writings to fit her German ultranationalist ideology, often contradicting or obfuscating Nietzsche’s stated opinions, which were explicitly opposed to antisemitism.

Through her, Nietzsche’s work became associated with fascism and Nazism.

20th-century scholars defended Nietzsche against this interpretation.

Corrected editions of his writings were soon made available.

Nietzsche’s thought enjoyed renewed popularity in the 1960s.

His ideas have since had a profound impact on 20th- and early 21st-century thinkers across philosophy — especially in schools of Continental philosophy (such as existentialism, postmodernism and post-structuralism — as well as art, literature, poetry, politics, and popular culture.

Above: Friedrich Nietzsche (1844 – 1900)

I have visited the Nietzsche Museum in Sils Maria, where the philosopher spent his final years.

I highly recommend a visit.)

Above: Nietzsche Haus Museum, Sils Maria, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland, where the German philosopher lived during the summers of 1881 and from 1883 to 1888.

(In addition to absorbing Germanic pagan myths, blood-and-soil literature played an important role in the creation of the Nazi worldview.

Nature and natural life are made the subject of a political myth by the writers of the blood-and-soil style. 

The focus is on the farmer and the farmer’s wife as symbols of the “pure” German par excellence. 

Village society appears as a Nazi microcosm. 

Nazi racism is propagated through blood and soil literature.

One of the basic tenets of the genre is the idea that “nobility” is nothing other than the peasant clan who must hold on to their indivisible, unsaleable hereditary farm for the purpose of breeding, to keep their blood pure.)

Above: German People, German Work, Kaiserdamm, Berlin, Germany (1934)

Huggenberger’s entire oeuvre comprises over 100 volumes of prose and poetry – some in Standard German, some in Swiss German – as well as numerous plays. 

Huggenberger worked in agriculture until old age. 

He died at the age of 92 in the former monastery of St. Katharinental and is buried in the cemetery in Gachnang.)

Above: Monastery of St. Katharinenthal, Diesenhofen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Now let us go back to Altnau and Hans Baumgartner…..

Above: Swiss teacher/photographer Hans Baumgartner

Baumgartner’s first photo report appeared in 1935.

Baumgartner then published in magazines, such as Camera, Du, Der Schweizer Spiegel (the Swiss Mirror), Die Schweiz (Switzerland) and Föhn (a type of dry, relatively warm, downslope wind that occurs in the lee (downwind side) of a mountain range – what Canadians call a chinook). 

The Neue Zürcher Zeitung (New Zurich newspaper) and the Thurgauer Zeitung also published his pictures. 

His photo books (from 1941) deal primarily with themes from his home canton of Thurgau. 

Above: Exercise in the snow, Hans Baumgartner photograph

In 1937, he made the acquaintance of the painter Adolf Dietrich, whom he subsequently portrayed several times.

Above: Swiss artist Adolf Dietrich

(Adolf Dietrich (1877 – 1957) was a Swiss painter.

Dietrich was born in a small, modest house in Berlingen, in Canton Thurgau, the 7th child of Heinrich Dietrich and Dorothea (née Kern). 

Above: Adolf Dietrich Haus, Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Even as a small boy he collected a lot and tried to imitate and draw everything. 

From 1885 to 1893 he attended primary school. 

He was a good and diligent student. 

His teacher recognized his talent for drawing and encouraged it. 

He recommended to his parents that their son should do an apprenticeship as a lithographer. 

But the family was poor and Adolf had to learn a trade that would earn him more. 

So he started to work in a jersey factory in Berlingen. 

On Sundays he painted and drew passionately. 

From 1896 to 1910 he worked at home as a machine knitter.

 Above: Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Nature with its mysteries and wonders fascinated him more and more. 

He began a first sketchbook and a dozen animal watercolours followed

In 1902, Dietrich became friends with Friedrich Neeser, a baker’s apprentice who also painted. 

They spent Sundays together in nature. 

Neeser encouraged the serious and somewhat anxious Adolf not to give up painting.

Above: Waldrand, Adolf Dietrich (1918)

In 1903, Dietrich drew his first self-portrait in charcoal. 

Above: Adolf Dietrich

His brother, who lived in Ludwigshafen am Rhein, commissioned him to paint a portrait of his parents. 

Above: Ludwigshafen am Rhein, Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany

That same year his mother died. 

From then on, Dietrich lived alone with his father in a small house in Berlingen. 

Above: Dorothea and Heinrich Dietrich

Working from home on the knitting machine helped to cope with the daily worries of existence. 

For technical reasons, however, he soon gave up working from home and earned his living as a forest worker. 

In 1913, he exhibited his paintings for the first time in Konstanz in the Wessenberghaus Museum. 

Above: Wessenberg Haus, Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

This was followed by further exhibitions in various galleries in Germany.

In 1918 his father died. 

This loss was difficult for him. 

Above: Moonlight on the Bodensee, Adolf Dietrich

Dietrich was discovered by the art dealer Herbert Tannenbaum, which enabled Dietrich to exhibit at various locations in Germany. 

Tannenbaum endeavored to make Dietrich known in Switzerland and soon obtained permission for exhibitions in Zürich and Schaffhausen. 

From 1924, Dietrich was able to make a living from his painting.

In 1937, Adolf Dietrich met Hans Baumgartner, who portrayed him several times for the magazine Du, thus helped him to achieve his international breakthrough.  

As a result, Dietrich was able to take part in exhibitions in Paris, London and New York.

It was not until 1941 that his home canton of Thurgau acquired a picture of his. 

From 1942, the demand for his pictures became so great that he copied his own pictures and promised the same picture to several people at the same time. 

He painted until his death. 

He died in his house in Berlingen. 

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

The lawyer Hans Buck, the author of Adolf Dietrich as a draftsman, made sure that Dietrich wrote a will and in it foresightedly thought of a future Thurgau art museum.

Adolf Dietrich had been fascinated by nature and animals since his childhood. 

He owned many stuffed animals that he drew. 

He often drew his garden or the Bodensee.

He painted portraits and various still life works.

Adolf Dietrich had no academic training as a painter. 

He always drew very precisely, so his pictures are very realistic. 

Above: Balbo lying on the meadow, Adolf Dietrich, 1955

Above: Fox in the forest, Adolf Dietrich

At the beginning Adolf Dietrich made pencil drawings in his sketchbooks on his hikes, 18 are still preserved today. 

Around 1929 he began taking black-and-white photographs, leaving behind several thousand.

He never painted in nature, but only ever made a sketch, which he then painted in color at home from memory. 

He never used an easel and always painted his pictures on the table in his living room, often in poor light. 

His techniques were gouache and watercolour painting, charcoal drawing, oil painting and pencil sketches.

In the beginning he painted on cardboard, later on wood, but only rarely on canvas. 

For this reason quite a lot of his pictures are in a sensitive condition.

The Museum is in his former home in Berlingen and is worth a visit.)

Above: Inside Adolf Dietrich Haus Museum, Berlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

(The Nazis completed destroyed the worthiness of the given name Adolf, which originally meant “noble wolf“.

Above: Seal of King Adolf of Nassau (1255 – 1298)

In both Protestant Germany (because of Swedish King Gustav Adolf and German writer Adolph von Knigge) and Catholic Germany (because of German priest/philosopher Adolph Kolping), Adolf enjoyed some popularity. 

Above: Swedish King Gustav Adolf (1594 – 1632)

Above: German writer Adolphe von Knigge (1752 – 1796)

Above: Adolph Kolping (1813 – 1865)

In 1890, the name was in 13th place on the popularity scale of all male first names in Germany.  

But since the beginning of the 20th century, its frequency as a first name has been decreasing. 

After an upswing from 1933, which lasted until 1942, the use of the name collapsed – in correlation with Adolf Hitler’s popularity.

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

 

Since the early 1950s, the first name Adolf has rarely been given to newborns in German-speaking countries.

The name is heavily burdened by the dictator Adolf Hitler and other Nazis, such as Adolf Eichmann (who orchestrated the Holocaust).

Above: Adolf Eichmann (1906 – 1962)

The first name is given about 15 times a year in Germany. 

The competent registry office decides on the admissibility in individual cases, in particular on the basis of the best interests of the child. 

In cases of doubt, they can consult the Onomastics Center at the University of Leipzig.

Above: Logo of the University of Leipzig, Saxony, Germany

The name was also popular in Sweden, where several kings bore the name. 

However, it has not been in the top ten most popular first names in any decade since the 1920s. 

In 2015, there were only around 2,600 bearers of this name in Sweden. 

Since at least 1998, fewer than ten newborn boys have been given this name each year. 

Above: Flag of Sweden

In the 2018 film Der Vorname (just like in the original 2012 French film Le Prénom), the name is the catalyst for a consequential dispute among the antagonists.

In it, an expectant father says with deadly seriousness that he will name his son Adolf

But he only wants to provoke his brother-in-law in order to give him a tit-for-tat for his constant mockery.)

Baumgartner also photographed his trips to Paris and Italy, the Balkans, southern France, North Africa and the Sahara, Croatia and the Dalmatian Coast, Burgundy, Spain and Portugal, Sweden and Finland, the US, Hungary, Belgium and Germany. 

Above: Sand dunes, Sahara Desert, Algeria

Above: Flag of Croatia

Above: Flag of Portugal

Above: Flag of Hungary

On his world trip by ship in 1963, he reached Asia (Bombay/Mumbai, Colombo, Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City, Hong Kong, Yokohama) and the American continent (Mexico and the US). 

Above: Mumbai, India

Above: Parliament Buildings, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Above: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Above: Hong Kong, China

Above: Yokohama, Japan

Stays at spas took him to Davos.

Above: Images of Davos, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

Hans Baumgartner died in Frauenfeld in 1996. 

Above: Frauenfeld, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The Swiss Foundation for Photography manages his estate of around 120,000 photographs.

It cannot be denied that Switzerland, despite its diminutive size (as compared to Canada or Turkey), is replete with talented artists.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Above: Flag of Canada

Above: Flag of Turkey

All of the above-mentioned Swiss artists, save Dietrich, travelled the world.

Dietrich’s world surrounded him.

Above: Sunset, Adolf Dietrich

I mention Baumgartner, because I think his photography abandoned the sphere of technical experimentation, the abstract and the avant-garde.

Photography became more wholesome, concentrating on the poetry of real things, the universal language of life.

Baumgartner was a teacher but by following his passions he succeeded in creating photos that tell a narrative, such as in Italy, a stolen image of lovers resting beside their discarded bicycles amongst long summer grass in an olive grove, or in Java, a boy stretches balletically across the pavement as he plays marbles.

Above: Hans Baumgartner

Kübler tried to be a geologist, then a sculptor, found success as an actor, was disfigured and still managed to achieve success as an artist in the field of literature.

Kübler believed in the role that photography can play upon the people who view it.

Above: Arnold Kübler

Senn showed that photography can be of a humanist nature.

Above: Paul Senn

Bischof sought to capture the true face of the world, the essence of real life.

Above: Werner Bischof

Tuggener showed that there was poetry in photography.

Above: Jakob Tuggener

Dieter’s guide to creation was Creation itself.

Above: Flowers by the Window with Butterflies, Adolf Dietrich

I believe that once Frank and Huggenberger moved on from their beloved Switzerland they gained their reputations, but lost themselves and the beautiful spirit that is Switzerland that had nurtured them.

Above: Swiss International Air Lines logo

I have only mentioned a few famous Swiss photographers but there are many more worthy of mention, such as:

Fred Boissonnas (1858 – 1946) was a Swiss photographer from Geneva.

Above: Fred Boissonnas

His work is considered crucial for the development of photography in Greece, and its use in favourably publicising the country’s expansionist ambitions, during the early 20th century.

Boissonnas constitutes a central figure in the transition from 19th century approaches to a more contemporary photography of antiquities.

Between 1903 and 1933 Boissonnas made several trips to Greece where he systematically documented Greece in landscape photographs, taken in all corners of the country, reflect its continuity from ancient times to the present day.

On one Greek expedition with compatriot art historian Daniel Baud-Bovy (1870 – 1958), Boissonnas made the first recorded modern-era ascent of Mount Olympus on 2 August 1913, aided by a hunter of wild goats.

Above: Mount Olympus, Greece

In total, Boissonnas published 14 photo albums dedicated to Greece, many of which belong to the thematic series entitled L’image de la Grece (The Image of Greece), his imagery contributing decisively to the identity of Greece in Europe, its promotion as a tourist destination but also its political situation.

His photographs of archaeological sites form 20% of his total Greek series.

He visited the Acropolis, Delphi, Olympia, Dodoni, Knossos, Delos, and many other sites, providing an extensive iconographic panorama of classical Greek antiquities.

Above: The Acropolis, Athens, Greece

Above: Delphi, Greece

Above: Olympia, Greece

Above: Dodoni, Greece

Above: Knossos, Crete

Above: Delos, Greece

Interested not only in documenting a site, Boissonnas also aimed to interpret the Greek landscape in combining classical antiquity with the provincial Greek folklore through associations of natural and cultural elements carefully composed and in the best ambient light.

His last photo album about Greece Following the ship of Ulysses (1933) sought to reconstruct the epic and, in a symbolic way, the dissemination of Greek culture throughout Europe. 

The photographs were accompanied by excerpts from Homer’s Odyssey.

  • Fred Mayer – One of Switzerland’s most influential photographers, Mayer travelled to Indonesia, where he shot a documentation about the former President Sukarno.

Above: Ilse and Fred Mayer

Above: Sukarno ( Koesno Sosrodihardjo)(1901 – 1970)(Indonesian President: 1945 – 1967)

His other works include pictures of King Hussein of Jordan and portfolios from all around the world, from the Vatican to Bali.

Above: Hussein bin Talal (1935 – 1999) (King of Jordan: 1952 – 1999)

Above: Flag of Vatican City

Above: Flag of Bali, Indonesia

He further published books about various countries, the Russian orthodox church, Chakkar Polo, Japanese theatre and the Chinese Opera.

Above: Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, Moscow, Russia

Above: Noh theatre, Japan

Above: Chinese National Opera House, Beijing, China

In 2011, Mayer published Homage to Hermann Hesse and his Siddhartha, based on the novel Siddhartha by the German author Hermann Hesse.

  • René Groebli – His first small folio Magie der Schiene (Rail magic) comprising 16 photographs (with front and back cover) was also shot in 1949 and self-published later the same year.

Above: René Groebli

It captures the ‘magic’ of steam train travel during the late 1940s.

Photographed in and around Paris, as well as locations in Switzerland, the often motion-blurred and grainy images convey the energy of steam.

The small book, Das Auge der Liebe (The Eye of Love), though respected for its design and photography, caused some controversy, but also brought Groebli attention.

The term “love” in the title being considered by students to be too sentimental given the obvious sexual connotations.

Where the photographer’s intention was for a romantic effect, the editor admitted that the narrative was sexualized.

In the leading periodical Neue Zürcher Zeitung, editor Edwin Arnet objected to the emphasis on nudity. 

Groebli sequenced his photographs to tell the story of a woman meeting a man in a cheap hotel.

The last photograph shows the woman’s hand with a wedding ring on her ring finger holding an almost finished post-coitus cigarette.

In the perception of audiences of the era, the implication was that the woman had to be either an ‘easy woman’, a prostitute, or an unfaithful wife.

However the US Camera Annual review of the work in 1955 pronounced it “a tender photo essay on a photographer’s love for a woman”.

  • René Robert (1936 – 2022) – In the mid-1960s, he moved to Paris, where he met a Swedish dancer who introduced him to the flamenco.

Above: René Robert

In 1967, he became one of the great portrait photographers.

He photographed personalities such as Spanish virtuoso flamenco guitarist Paco de Lucia (1947 – 2014), Spanish flamenco dancers Israel Galván and Rocio Molina Cruz in black-and-white.

Above: Paco de Lucia

Above: Israel Galván

Above: Rocio Molina Cruz

On the evening of 19 January 2022, Robert was walking through the Place de la République in Paris when he suddenly had a heart attack and collapsed on the sidewalk on rue de Turbigo.

Despite Robert lying motionless and on the pavement for nine hours, no one stopped to assist him or called for help, until eventually a homeless person called the emergency services.

Robert died of hypothermia on 20 January 2022, at the age of 85.

His death was subsequently the subject of media debate around public indifference to street people.

Above: Monument to the Glory of France, Place de la Republique, Paris, France

  • Ella Maillart (1903 – 1997) – From the 1930s onwards, she spent years exploring Muslim republics of the USSR, as well as other parts of Asia, and published a rich series of books which, just as her photographs, are today considered valuable historical testimonies.

Above: Ella Maillart (1903 – 1997)

Her early books were written in French, but later she began to write in English. 

Turkestan Solo describes a journey in 1932 in Soviet Turkestan.

Above: (in green) Former location of Soviet Central Asia / Russian Turkestan

Photos from this journey are now displayed in the Ella Maillart Wing of the Karakol Historical Museum, Kyrgyzstan.

Above: Flag of Kyrgyzstan

In 1934, the French daily Le Petit Parisien (1876 – 1944) sent her to Manchuria to report on the situation under the Japanese occupation.

Above: Map of Manchuria – From left to right: Outer Manchuria / Inner Manchuria / Northern Manchuria

Above: Images of the Second Sino-Japanese War / War of Chinese Resistance (1937 – 1945)

It was there that she met Peter Fleming (1907 – 1971), a well-known writer and correspondent of The Times, with whom she would team up to cross China from Peking (Beijing) to Srinagar (3,500 miles), much of the route being through hostile desert regions and steep Himalayan passes.

Above: English writer Peter Fleming (elder brother of James Bond creator Ian Fleming)

Above: Flag of China

Above: Beijing, China

Above: Srinagar, India

The journey started in February 1935 and took seven months to complete, involving travel by train, on lorries, on foot, horse and camelback.

Their objective was to ascertain what was happening in Xinjiang (Chinese Turkestan) where the Kumul Rebellion (1931 – 1934) had just ended.

Above: (in red) Location of Xinjiang (Chinese Turkestan)

Above: Turkic conscripts of the 36th Division near Kumul – They are carrying Kuomintaung (Chinese Nationalist Party)(blue sky with a white sun) flags.

Above: Emblem of the Kuomintang

Maillart and Fleming met the Hui (Chinese Muslim) forces of General Ma Hushan.

Above: Ma Hushan (1910 – 1954)

Ella Maillart later recorded this trek in her book Forbidden Journey, while Peter Fleming’s parallel account is found in his News from Tartary.

In 1937 Maillart returned to Asia for Le Petit Parisien to report on Afghanistan, Iran and Turkey.

Above: Ella Maillert, Meshid, Iran, 1939

In 1939 she undertook a trip from Geneva to Kabul by car, in the company of the Swiss writer, Annemarie Schwarzenbach. 

The Cruel Way is the title of Maillart’s book about this experience, cut short by the outbreak of the Second World War.

Above: Genève (Geneva), Switzerland

Above: Kabul, Afghanistan

Above: Annemarie Schwarzenbach and Ella Maillert

She spent the war years at Tiruyannamalai in southern India, learning from different teachers about Advaita Vedanta, one of the schools of Hindu philosophy.

Above: Images of Tiruvannamalai, India

On her return to Switzerland in 1945, she lived in Geneva and at Chandolin, a mountain village in the Swiss Alps.

Above: Chandolin, Canton Valais, Switzerland

  • Annemarie Schwarzenbach (1908 – 1942) was a Swiss writer, journalist and photographer.

Above: Annemarie Schwarzenbach

Her bisexual mother brought her up in a masculine style, and her androgynous image suited the bohemian Berlin society of the time, in which she indulged enthusiastically.

Her anti-Fascist campaigning forced her into exile, where she became close to the family of novelist Thomas Mann.

Above: German novelist Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

She would live much of her life abroad as a photojournalist, embarking on many lesbian relationships, and experiencing a growing morphine addiction.

In America, the young Carson McCullers (1917 – 1967) was infatuated with Schwarzenbach, to whom she dedicated Reflections in a Golden Eye.

Above: American writer Carson McCullers (1917 – 1967)

Schwarzenbach reported on the early events of World War II.

On 7 September 1942 in the Engadin, she fell from her bicycle and sustained a serious head injury.

Following a mistaken diagnosis in the Sils clinic where she was treated, she died on 15 November.

Above: Silssee (Lake of Sils), Engadin Valley, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

There always remains a question in my mind as I travel and discover what personalities places have fostered:

Did these places make them the people they became or would they have become what they were regardless of the environment which spawned them?

Had René Robert not had his heart attack in Paris would he have continued to live on?

Why did Maillart and Schwarzenbach, who had seen so much of the world, decide to return to their homeland of Switzerland – a nation famous for both its international diplomacy but insular fortress mentality?

The art that all these people produced is inspirational.

I love the way words and pictures can work together on a page or a screen.

When wise words have visuals added to them, they seem to travel further, like paper airplanes catching an updraught.

I ask myself questions as I once again visualize the quiet beauty of the Altnau of my memories:

How alike to these Swiss artists in any way might I be, might had I become, had I grown up here?

Would I have become a teacher much like Baumgarten, he who travelled the world but remained devoted to his classroom and his Canton and his country?

Or is it my fate to travel the world and die neglected far from home like René Robert or Werner Bischof?

Or would I have simply faded into the scene as beautiful and ignored as Altnau’s apple blossoms in spring?

The other thoughts that possess me as I type these words is the notion that not only are we products of the places we have been but we are as well artifacts of the age we live in.

Could this modern age of social media, audiovisual developments and the Internet have manifested the molds that made women and men like Baumgartner and Bischof, Senn and Schwarzenbach, Mayer and Maillart?

Words and photos have evolved into sound bites and film.

Books are buried by the cacophony of commentary crowding our consciousness continually by the inane insane bombardment of unfiltered information crashing upon us, drowning us in its mindless distraction.

There is so much reality that life feels unreal.

Technology has greatly improved the lives of many people around the world.

The use of the Internet, in particular, has become so widespread in so many countries that our daily existence is now unimaginable without it.

This is not necessarily a positive development.

When social media first started to become popular, it was an innocent extension of the standard types of interactions between friends and new acquaintances.

These days, however, there are two noticeable extremes, both negative:

One is where the platform is used as a substitute for human-to-human interaction.

The second is where it is employed as a way to bully or aggressively intimidate other people.

And I feel there is a third danger lurking in the corridor….

Above: Facebook logo

Above: Instagram logo

Above: WhatsApp logo

Above: Snapchat logo

For hundreds of years, the more forward-thinking elements of science and technology have stoked imaginations in the world of entertainment.

For example, a huge number of sci-fi movies were produced in the 20th century, a period during which space exploration became first a possibility, then a reality.

Many such films depict situations in which one character (in full bodily form) interacts with a 3-D holographic image of another.

Various aspects of society could be going through enormous changes as virtual reality (VR) technology moves towards fully operational and interactive implementation of its potential.

To what extent VR establishes itself as an integral part of our lives and how quickly it is likely to move from niche technology to common usage throughout society remains a matter of deliberation.

VR may well have become sufficiently developed for it to form an essential part of life by the mid-21st century, if not sooner.

Over 40 million people currently own VR headsets.

This figure is expected to double over the next three years.

By 2025, we may well have reached the point at which 200 million users will own a VR viewing device, a head-mounted display (HMD), more commonly known as a VR headset.

We may all prefer to live in a virtual reality that creates an illusion of a reality more desirable than real life itself.

Oh, the seduction promised by this brave new world!

Educators will be presented with a vast array of new opportunities through which to pass on knowledge.

Within the next ten years teachers may become able to move completely away from the course book or flat screen – even the classroom itself – and into an immersive world of instruction and learning.

By way of example, history students could be taken into the epicentre of the world’s greatest battles and conflicts, experiencing and understanding the machinations of victory first-hand.

Medical students may be provided with the opportunity to travel through the human body as if they were themselves the size of a blood cell, building their comprehension of how veins and arteries or nervous systems are interconnected.

Music students will be able to watch a VR orchestra perform their new composition in a venue of their choice, whether that be the local concert hall or even the Sydney Opera House.

Above: Sydney Opera House, Sydney, Australia

A student of Mandarin should one day be able to walk the streets of Beijing, conversing with the local native speakers and practising the regional pronunciation.

Similarly, by the year 2050, the concept of travel may have undergone a profound transformation.

Parts of the world currently inaccessible to most people, whether because the expense of flying is too great or because those places are too remote to be easily reached, will become open to visitors in the form of exact VR replicas of the original cities, rainforests, beaches, and so on.

Not only is this bound to please avid “travellers“, it could also appease the concerned environmentalist.

The number of commercial flight operators each day might well decrease as people opt for VR vacations.

Perhaps one day VR will be replaced by memory implants of having travelled as suggested by Philip K. Dick’s short story “We can remember it for you wholesale“, which was the inspiration for the 1990 film Total Recall and its 2012 remake.

Above: Philip K. Dick (1928 – 1982)

Perhaps in the future, widespread use of remotely controlled androids will enable everyone to live in idealized forms from the safety of their homes, as suggested by Robert Venditti’s comic book series The Surrogates, which became the 2009 sci-fi film Surrogates.

Despite its potential to change life as we know it today, it may even be possible that VR will ultimately fail to catch on in common usage, that HMDs will be consigned to history’s obsolescence in the same way as compact discs (CDs), mini disc players, the Walkman, cassette players, vinyl record players and personal digital assistants (PDAs).

After all, even the technology that today seems improbable will at some point become outdated.

Despite the optimism in some quarters, genuine interaction with holograms in the real world is still as far from becoming a reality as ever, so if the hologram cannot come to Muhammad then Muhammad must enter the world of the hologram.

Above: A compact disc

Above: Mini disc player

Above: Sony Walkman

Above: Cassette player

Above: Vinyl record player

Above: Personal digital assistant

However, what is currently available has begun to be used for entertainment purposes in a wide range of industries.

The music industry is one.

The music industry has sought to take advantage of holographic technology since its infancy.

There have been numerous examples – concerts and events – during which audiences have been able to watch modern vocalists sharing the stage with holographic images of performers who departed this world some time ago.

In fact, the technology has been developed to such an advanced level that it is almost possible to stage an entire concert performed by dead rock stars.

Great actors could also be resurrected.

Above: Hologram version of Buddy Holly (1936 – 1959)

Critics have argued that this is exploitative of both audiences and musicians, putting on stage an artist who has no way of refusing to be there.

This has led some people inside the music industry to predict a future of bands touring without needing to leave the rehearsal studio.

That being said, I think it would be rather unlikely for any fan to buy a ticket to watch their favourite artists, knowing that the performances they have paid to see is not technically a live show and that the musicians they admire do not wish to be present in the same room as they are.

Real-time 3-D representations of artists are becoming ever more accurate, but have less appeal for live audiences than authentic performances do.

As is often the case, the will to create something new and exciting for consumers of entertainment is hindered by the technology currently available to it.

So, if the real live artist cannot come to a concert, then perhaps it is more desirable to enter a virtual reality that brings the artist’s simulation to you.

Above: Holographic version of Roy Orbison (1936 – 1988)

All of this bothers me deeply.

For in this quest for speed, for distraction, for entertainment, for ease and comfort, we have forgotten to give ourselves the time to think and feel, which is crucial to our very existence.

Modern technology of the moment tends to pull us into life patterns that gradually degrade the ways in which each of us exists as an individual.

By immersing ourselves in VR or holographic illusion, to allow ourselves to become slaves to the machines that were designed to serve us, deemphasizes our value as individuals and the intrinsic value of an individual’s unique internal experience and creativity.

As technology gets “better and better“, as civilization becomes more and more digital, we are hurting ourselves.

The more dependent we become upon our technology, the more we lose the ability to self-determine, the more we lose our freedom.

The more we seek to become like everyone else, the more we lose ourselves.

The reality is that until we become someone, we are not ready to share our lives with someone else.

Widespread impersonal communication has demeaned interpersonal interaction.

The most important thing about technology is how it changes people.

For instance, Stanford University research demonstrated that changing the height of one’s avatar in immersive VR transforms self-esteem and social self-perception.

Technologies have become extensions of ourselves.

Different media designs stimulate different potentials in human nature.

We should not seek to make the pack mentality as efficient as possible.

We should instead seek to inspire the phenomenon of individual intelligence.

Algorithms may find correlations between what you say online and your purchases, your romantic adventures, your debts….

But a person is not a pat formula.

Being human is a quest, a mystery, a leap of faith.

Technology is meant to be an extension of our being, not a replacement of it.

I find myself thinking of the 2013 film The Congress and the 1971 sci-fi novel that inspired it – Stanislaw Lem’s The Futurological Congress.

Actress Robin Wright’s longtime agent Al (Harvey Keitel) takes her to meet Jeff Green (Danny Huston), CEO of film production company Miramount Studios, who offers to buy her likeness and digitize her into a computer-animated version of herself.

Realizing she may be unable to find future work with the emergence of this new technology, she agrees to sell the film rights to her digital image to Miramount in exchange for a hefty sum of money.

She is forced to promise never to act again.

After her body is digitally scanned, the studio will be able to make films starring her, using only computer-generated characters.

Since then, Robin’s virtual persona has become the star of a popular sci-fi action film franchise.

Twenty years later, as her contract is about to expire, Robin travels to Abrahama City, where she will speak at Miramount’s entertainment Futurological Conference in the Hotel Miramount Nagasaki, and also to renew her now-expired contract.

Abrahama City is an animated surreal Utopia that is created from figments of people’s imaginations, where anyone can become an animated avatar of themselves, but are required to use hallucinogenic drugs that allow them to enter a mutable illusionary state.

They can become anyone or anything they want to be.

Above: Scene from The Congress

While discussing her new contract, Robin learns that the studio has developed a new technology that will allow anyone to devour her or transform themselves into her.

She agrees to the deal, but has a crisis of conscience and does not believe anyone should be turned into a product.

Asking to speak to the public at the Congress, she publicly voices her contrary views, upsetting the hosts, judges and the councils of the Congress, who are unimpressed with her disapproval.

Above: Scene from The Congress

Shortly afterwards, the Congress is interrupted by an attack of a group of rebel terrorists and protesters ideologically opposed to the technology industry.

The head of the Congress is assassinated.

Returning to the unanimated real world, Robin finds herself in a dystopian environment.

The inhabitants are severely dysfunctional.

Most people have left the real world for an existence in the animated unreal world.

Above: Scene from The Congress

I am also reminded of Fahrenheit 451 and Brave New World.

Above: Movie poster for the 1966 film Fahrenheit 451

Above: Movie poster for 1980 film Brave New World

Fahrenheit 451 presents an American society where books have been personified, outlawed and burnt when found.

Ray Bradbury wrote the book as a commentary on how mass media reduces interest in reading literature, citing political correctness as the real enemy that seeks to control thought and freedom of speech.

Above: Ray Bradbury (1920 – 2012)

Between 1947 and 1948, Bradbury wrote “Bright Phoenix“, a short story about a librarian who confronts a “Chief Censor“, who burns books.

An encounter Bradbury had in 1949 with the police inspired him to write the short story “The Pedestrian” in 1951.

In “The Pedestrian“, a man going for a nighttime walk in his neighborhood is harassed and detained by the police.

In the society of “The Pedestrian“, citizens are expected to watch television as a leisurely activity, a detail that would be included in Fahrenheit 451.

The story features Leonard Mead, a citizen of a television-centered world in November 2053.

In the city the sidewalks have fallen into decay. Mead enjoys walking through the city at night, something which no one else does.

In ten years of walking by night or day, for thousands of miles, he had never met another person walking, not one in all that time.”

On one of his usual walks, he encounters a police car, which is robotic.

It is the only police unit in a city of three million as the purpose of law enforcement has disappeared with everyone watching television at night.

When asked about his profession Mead tells the car that he is a writer, but the car does not understand since no one buys books or magazines in the television-dominated society.

The police car, which is revealed to have no occupants, cannot understand why Mead would be out walking for no reason.

So it decides to take him to the Psychiatric Center for Research on Regressive Tendencies.

As the car passes through his neighborhood, Mead, locked in the confines of the back seat says, “That’s my house.”, as he points to a warm and bright house with all its lights on, unlike all the other houses.

There is no reply.

The story concludes.

The address of the main character, Leonard Mead, happens to be the address of the house in which Bradbury grew up.

This has caused speculation that this short story is actually referring to himself, or is in some related way a message to his home town of Waukegan, Illinois.

Above: Downtown Waukegan, Illinois, USA

The 60th anniversary of Fahrenheit 451 contains the short piece “The Story of Fahrenheit 451” by Jonathan R. Eller.

In it, Eller writes that Bradbury’s inspiration for the story came when he was walking down Wilshire Boulevard in Los Angeles with a friend in late 1949.

On their walk, a police cruiser pulled up and asked what they were doing.

Bradbury answered, “Well, we’re putting one foot in front of the other.

The policemen did not appreciate Ray’s joke and became suspicious of Bradbury and his friend for walking in an area where there were no pedestrians.

Inspired by this experience, he wrote “The Pedestrian“.

The short novella that would later evolve into Fahrenheit 451.

Above: “The Miracle Mile“, Wiltshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, California, USA – this stretch of Wilshire near the La Brea Tar Pits was named “Miracle Mile” for its improbable rise to prominence

What’s the matter with the clothes I’m wearing?
“Can’t you tell that your tie’s too wide?”
Maybe I should buy some old tab collars?
“Welcome back to the age of jive
Where have you been hidin’ out lately, honey?
You can’t dress trashy till you spend a lot of money”
Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the car I’m driving?
“Can’t you tell that it’s out of style?”
Should I get a set of white wall tires?
“Are you gonna cruise the Miracle Mile?
Nowadays you can’t be too sentimental
Your best bet’s a true baby blue Continental”
Hot funk, cool punk, even if it’s old junk
It’s still rock and roll to me

Oh, it doesn’t matter what they say in the papers
‘Cause it’s always been the same old scene
There’s a new band in town
But you can’t get the sound from a story in a magazine…
Aimed at your average teen

How about a pair of pink sidewinders
And a bright orange pair of pants?
“You could really be a Beau Brummell baby
If you just give it half a chance
Don’t waste your money on a new set of speakers,
You get more mileage from a cheap pair of sneakers”
Next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock and roll to me

What’s the matter with the crowd I’m seeing?
“Don’t you know that they’re out of touch?”
Should I try to be a straight ‘A’ student?
“If you are then you think too much
Don’t you know about the new fashion honey?
All you need are looks and a whole lotta money”
It’s the next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways
It’s still rock and roll to me

Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout the new sound
Funny, but it’s still rock and roll to me

In Fahrenheit 451, Leonard’s character can be considered similar to that of Clarisse McClellan‘s uncle, who tells of a similar story repeated by her niece to Montag.

The Pedestrian” was adapted for radio and broadcast on the CBC (Canadian Broadcasting Corporation) program Theatre 10:30 (1968 – 1971).

Above: Corporate flag of the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (CBC)

The story was made into an episode of The Ray Bradbury Theatre, starring David Ogden Stiers as Leonard Mead.

Above: David Ogden Stiers (as Leonard Mead) (1942 – 2018)

Elements of both “Bright Phoenix” and “The Pedestrian” would be combined into “The Fireman“, a novella published in 1951.

Bradbury was urged to make “The Fireman” into a full novel. 

Simple pleasures and interests make one an outcast.

Bradbury recounts a history of how books lost their value as people began to embrace new media, sports, and an ever-quickening pace of life.

Books were ruthlessly abridged or degraded to accommodate shorter attention spans.

Books were condemned as sources of confusing and distressing thoughts that only complicated people’s lives.

In Aldous Huxley’s Brave New World, society’s methods of keeping its citizens peaceful is with the constant consumption of a soothing, happiness-producing drug, soma.

I am also reminded of the 2002 American dystopian sci-fi film Equilibrium:

Libria, a totalitarian city-state established by survivors of World War III, blames human emotion as the cause for the war.

Any activity or object that stimulates emotion is strictly forbidden.

Those in violation are labelled “Sense Offenders” and sentenced to death.

The population is forced to take a daily injection of “Prozium II” to suppress emotion.

Libria is governed by the Tetragrammaton Council, led by “Father“, who communicates propaganda through giant video screens throughout the city.

Above: Flag of Libria: The four Ts on the flag represent the Tetragrammaton Council.

At the pinnacle of law enforcement are the Grammaton Clerics, trained in the martial art of gun kata.

Clerics frequently raid homes to search for and destroy illegal materials – art, literature and music – executing violators on the spot.

A resistance movement, known as the “Underground“, emerges to topple Father and the Tetragrammaton Council.

The film follows John Preston (Christian Bale), an enforcement officer in a future in which feelings and artistic expression are outlawed and citizens take daily injections of powerful psychoactive drugs to suppress their emotions.

After accidentally missing a dose, Preston begins to experience emotions, which makes him question his morality and moderate his actions while attempting to remain undetected by the suspicious society in which he lives.

Ultimately, he aids the resistance movement using advanced martial arts, which he was taught by the regime he is helping to overthrow.

Above: Christian Bale (as John Preston), Equilibrium

Insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space and will to walk and think, to see and imagine, and against all that these acts embody.

We live in an age of fear of the time in-between, the time it takes to get from here to there, moments of meandering, of rushing and running.

The time in-between has been deplored as a waste, requiring reduction, silence silenced by earphones playing music, the serendipity of the scene that surrounds us is ignored by eyes downcast drawn to mobile phones.

The very ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the “useless“, is evaporating, as has appreciation of the outside – anything outside the familiar.

Mobile phones are our buffer against solitude, silence and encounters with the unknown.

But it is only in solitude and silence can we learn to love our own company and can hear our own mind.

It is encounters with the unknown through which we can learn to live and discover the myriad possibilities of existence.

Dependency on our devices is not freedom.

Dependency is merely distraction from our fears of the unknown.

Distraction ultimately leads to destruction of self.

What we’re living in?
Lemme tell ya

Yeah, it’s a wonder man can eat at all
When things are big that should be small
Who can tell what magic spells we’ll be doing for us

And I’m giving all my love to this world
Only to be told
I can’t see, I can’t breathe
No more will we be

And nothing’s gonna change the way we live
‘Cause we can always take, but never give
And now that things are changing for the worse, see
Whoa, it’s a crazy world we’re living in
And I just can’t see that half of us immersed in sin
Is all we have to give these

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground

And I’m thinking what a mess we’re in
Hard to know where to begin
If I could slip the sickly ties that earthly man has made
And now every mother can choose the color
Of her child, that’s not nature’s way

Well, that’s what they said yesterday
There’s nothing left to do, but pray
I think it’s time to find a new religion

Whoa, it’s so insane
To synthesize another strain
There’s something in these futures
That we have to be told

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground, wow

Now there is no sound
If we all live underground
And now it’s virtual insanity
Forget your virtual reality

Oh, there’s nothing so bad
As a manmade man
Oh, yeah, I know, yeah (take it to the dance floor)

I know I can’t go on

Of this virtual insanity we’re living in
Has got to change, yeah
Things will never be the same
And I can’t go on
Where we’re living in
Oh, oh, virtual insanity

Oh, this world
He’s got to change
‘Cause I just
I just can’t keep going on in this virtual, virtual insanity
That we’re living in, that we’re living in
And that virtual insanity is what is, yeah

Futures made of virtual insanity, now
Always seem to be governed by this love we have
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
Oh, now there is no sound, for we all live underground, oh

Futures made of, now, virtual insanity
Now we all, we seem to be governed by a love
For these useless, twisting, of our new technology
And now there is no sound, for we all live underground
Yes, we do, oh

Now this life that we live in
(Virtual insanity) it’s all going wrong
Out of the window (living in)
Do you know there is nothing worse than (virtual insanity)

A manmade man
(Virtual insanity) There’s nothing worse than
(Living in) a foolish man
(Virtual insanity) Hey!

Virtual insanity is what we’re living in, yeah
Well… It’s alright

Altnau is a small town, full of life and light and love, but one must walk its streets and stroll along its shore and meander through its apple orchards and linger on its jetty to capture its universal language.

Its past and the teacher-photographer who emerged from it and those of his ilk whose photographs captured the beauty of the canton, the country, the world, remind us that beauty is accessible to everyone, anywhere and everywhere, if only we choose to see it.

Walk away from your laptops and mobile phones.

Look up to the glory of the heavens instead.

Pull the phones from your ears.

Listen to the orchestra of songbirds, the crash of waves, and the whisper of your own thoughts.

Reject VR.

Choose reality.

Turn off the TV.

Switch off the radio.

Ignore movies that rob us of imagination.

Resist stimulants and distractions.

Learn to love life as it is in all its complexity.

Read a great work of literature.

Look at photographs and pictures.

Walk and make your own memories.

Words are the expression of thought.

Pictures are the expression of emotion.

Walking is the synchronicity of both thought and emotion in a symphony of all the senses.

Another suburban family morning.
Grandmother screaming at the wall.

We have to shout above the din of our Rice Crispies
We can’t hear anything at all.
Mother chants her litany of boredom and frustration,
But we know all her suicides are fake.

Daddy only stares into the distance
There’s only so much more that he can take.


Many miles away something crawls from the slime
At the bottom of a dark Scottish lake.

Another industrial ugly morning
The factory belches filth into the sky.
He walks unhindered through the picket lines today,
He doesn’t think to wonder why.
The secretaries pout and preen like cheap tarts in a red light street,
But all he ever thinks to do is watch.
And every single meeting with his so-called superior
Is a humiliating kick in the crotch.


Many miles away something crawls to the surface
Of a dark Scottish loch.

Another working day has ended.
Only the rush hour hell to face.
Packed like lemmings into shiny metal boxes.
Contestants in a suicidal race.
Daddy grips the wheel and stares alone into the distance,
He knows that something somewhere has to break.
He sees the family home now looming in his headlights,
The pain upstairs that makes his eyeballs ache.


Many miles away there’s a shadow on the door
Of a cottage on the shore
Of a dark Scottish lake
Many miles away [7x]

Altnau is nowhere special.

Altnau is everywhere special.

Discover your own Altnau.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Ray Bradbury, Fahrenheit 451 / The Pedestrian / Evliya Çelebi, The Book of Travels / Philip K. Dick, We can remember it for you wholesale / Aldous Huxley, Brave New World / Jamiroquai, Virtual Insanity / Billy Joel, Allentown / It’s still rock & roll to me / Movin’ Out / Jaron Lanier, You Are Not a Gadget / Stanislaw Lem, The Futurological Congress / The Police, Synchronicity II / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Louise Purwin Zobel: The Travel Writer’s Handbook

Canada Slim: Out of Nowhere

Canada Slim and the Pickwickian Road to Mürren – Part One (The departure)

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 20 November 2022

I have a hobby.

I find myself drawn to investigating and visiting places with any sort of a literary connection.

Tell me someone wrote something somewhere and I begin to plan a visit there.

I find myself drawn of late to Charles Dickens’ The Pickwick Papers and damned if I am not already envisioning a journey to England to retrace the tale of the irrepressible Samuel Pickwick and his fellow Pickwickians as they travelled around the English countryside getting into all kinds of scrapes and adventures.

“The first ray of light which illumines the gloom and converts into a dazzling brilliancy that obscurity in which the earlier history of the public career of the immortal Pickwick would appear to be involved is derived from the perusal of the following entry in the Transactions of the Pickwick Club, which the editor of these papers feels the highest pleasure in laying before his readers, as a proof of the careful attention, indefatigable assiduity and nice discrimination with which his search among the multifarious documents confided to him has been conducted.

London, England, 12 May 1827

Joseph Smiggers, Esquire, Perpetual Vice-President – Member Pickwick Club (PVPMPC) presiding.

The following resolutions unanimously agreed to:

This Association cannot but entertain a lively sense of the inestimable benefits which must invariably result from carrying the speculations of that learned man (Pickwick) into a wider field, from extending his travels, and consequently enlarging his sphere of observation, to the advancement of knowledge and the diffusion of learning.

That Samuel Pickwick, Tracy Tupman, Augustus Snodgrass and Nathaniel Winkle are hereby nominated and appointed members of the Corresponding Society of the Pickwick Club and that they be requested to forward, from time to time, authenticated accounts of their journeys and investigations, of their observations of character and manners, and of the whole of their adventures, together with all tales and papers to which local scenery or associations may give rise to the Pickwick Club, stationed in London.

That this Association cordially recognizes the principle of every member of the Corresponding Society defraying his own travelling expenses, and that it sees no objection whatever to the members of the said Society pursuing their inquiries for any length of time they please, upon the same terms.”

“In this strain, with an occasional glass of ale, when the coach changed horses, until they reached Rochester Bridge, by which time the notebooks both of Pickwick and Snodgrass were completely filled with selections from his adventures.

Magnificent ruin!“, said Snodgrass, with all the poetic fervour that distinguished him, when they came in sight of the fine old castle.

What a study for an antiquarian!” were the very words which fell from Pickwick’s mouth as he applied his telescope to his eye.

Ah! Fine place, glorious pile, frowning walls, tottering arches, dark nooks, crumbling staircases.“, said the stranger.

Above: Rochester Castle, from across the Medway River, Kent, England

Old cathedral too, earthy smell, pilgrims’ feet worn away the old steps, little Saxon doors, confessionals like money-takers’ boxes at theatres.

Queer customers those monks, Popes and Lord Treasurers and all sorts of old fellows with great red faces and broken noses turning up every day, leather coats and guns.

Tombs, fine place, old legends too, strange stories, capital.“, said the stranger.”

Above: Rochester Cathedral, Kent, England

“We do not find, from a careful perusal of Pickwick’s notes on the four towns Strood, Rochester, Chatham and Brompton, that his impressions of their appearance differ in any material point from those of other travellers who have gone over the same ground.

His general description is easily abridged:

The principal production of these towns appear to be soldiers, sailors, Jews, chalk, shrimps, officers and dockyard men.

The commodities chiefly exposed for sale in the public streets are marine supplies, baked goods, apples, flatfish and oysters.

The streets present a lively and animated appearance, occasioned chiefly by the conviviality of the military.

It is truly delightful to the philanthropic mind to see these gallant men staggering along under the influence of an overflow, both of animal and ardent spirits.

More especially when we remember that the following them about and jesting with them affords a cheap and innocent amusement for the boy population.

Nothing can exceed their good humour.

It was but the day before my arrival that one of them had been most grossly insulted in a pub.

The barmaid had positively refused to draw him any more liquor.

In return for which he had (merely in playfulness) drawn his bayonet and wounded the girl in the shoulder.

And yet this fine fellow was the very first to go down to the pub next morning and express his readiness to overlook the matter and forget what had occurred.

The consumption of tobacco in these towns must be very great and the smell which pervades the streets must be exceedingly delicious to those who are extremely fond of smoking.

A superficial traveller might object to the dirt which is their leading characteristic, but to those who view it as an indication of traffic and commercial prosperity it is truly gratifying.

Above: High Street, Strood, Kent, England

Above: High Street, Rochester, Kent, England

Above: Chatham, Kent, England

Above: Prospect Row, Brompton, Kent, England

Thus we are introduced to Rochester, after an unpleasant confrontation with a coachman in London.

Above: Eastgate House, Rochester, Kent

My mind therefore leaps to the notion of finding in London Goswell Street where Pickwick is said to have resided and the coach stand in St. Martin’s le Grand and the Golden Cross where Pickwick met his travelling companions Tupman, Snodgrass and Winkle and where the quartet were assaulted by the paranoid cabby Sam.

Above: St. Martin’s Le Grand looking south, London, England, 1829

I find myself wondering how far it is to Rochester from London (30 miles/50 km), whether there are walking trails between London and Rochester (10.5 to 11 hours walking distance), and whether any discernible traces of the 19th century of Pickwick can still be seen by the 21st century traveller.

My walking is of two kinds: one, straight on end to a definite goal at a round pace; one, objectless, loitering, and purely vagabond.

In the latter state, no gipsy on Earth is a greater vagabond than myself.

It is so natural to me, and strong with me, that I think I must be the descendant, at no great distance, of some irreclaimable tramp.

So much of my travelling is done on foot, that if I cherished betting propensities, I should probably be found registered in sporting newspapers under some such title as the Elastic Novice, challenging all eleven stone mankind to competition in walking.

My last special feat was turning out of bed at two, after a hard day, pedestrian and otherwise, and walking thirty miles into the country to breakfast.

Charles Dickens, The Uncommercial Traveller

Charles Dickens was a prodigious walker.

Whether on his night walks through London, or tramping through the Kent countryside, Dickens clocked up a huge number of miles on foot.

He is estimated to have walked 12 miles per day.

Dickens maintained this in all kinds of weather.

Dickens understood his passion for walking to be prodigious.

Dickens mostly walked alone.

He did so because walking time was thinking time, or perhaps more accurately dreaming time.

Whether walking purposefully or in vagabond style, as he classifies his walking habits in The Uncommercial Traveller, Dickens proceeded in a reverie, acutely attuned to the significance of his surroundings.

Above: Charles Dickens (1812 – 1870)

G.K. Chesterton, in Charles Dickens: A Critical Study (1906), makes this remarkable judgment of the connection between Dickens’ writing and walking:

Herein is the whole secret of that eerie realism with which Dickens could always vitalize some dark or dull corner of London.

There are details in the Dickens descriptions — a window, or a railing, or the keyhole of a door — which he endows with demoniac life.

The things seem more actual than things really are.

Indeed, that degree of realism does not exist in reality:

It is the unbearable realism of a dream.

And this kind of realism can only be gained by walking dreamily in a place.

It cannot be gained by walking observantly.

It takes some sort of critical genius to understand Dickens’ walking not to be observant in the conventional sense, but an act of dreaming.

He walked not to see things but to get the sense of them.

I am both a town traveller and a country traveller, and am always on the road.”, he writes in The Uncommercial Traveller, his series of essays linked by the idea of walking.

There is the sense of Dickens having always to walk, so that he was travelling in his mind wherever he might be, and being released into the act of walking became a necessary expression of his mind’s direction.

Walk from Higham a couple of miles north to St Mary’s Church, Dickens’ parish church.

Above: Gads Hill Place, Higham, Kent, England – Charles Dickens’ final home (1856 – 1870)

The road gives up at this point.

Proceed across fields, along little-used railways lines and past water-filled gravel pits, past Cliffe and onwards to Cooling.

Cooling is a small strip of a village with the ruins of a privately-owned castle and St. James Church, a favourite Dickens picnic location.

It is an ancient, disused (but handsomely maintained) church with a 13th century font and some 14th century pews.

But its most famous feature is found in the graveyard – 13 gravestones of the children of two families, known now as ‘Pip’s graves’.

In Great Expectations, Pip describes seeing:

… five little stone lozenges, each about a foot and a half long, which were arranged in a neat row beside their grave, and were sacred to the memory of five little brothers of mine — who gave up trying to get a living, exceedingly early in that universal struggle …

Famously Dickens reduced the number from thirteen to five, so as not to stretch the credibility of his readers too far.

But the 13 gravestones are there in a row, even if they do derive from two families rather than one.

The names are no longer legible, but they are of the Baker and Comport families, none of whom lived beyond the age of 17 months, having died between 1771 and 1779.

They may all have died of malaria (ague), no great surprise in a marshland area.

One can readily imagine the scene in the greys of winter with a sharp wind coming in off the North Sea to feel that overpowering sense of time, place and consequence – “the unbearable realism of a dream” – that is the cornerstone of Dickens’ art.

Above: The 13 children’s gravestones at St James Church, Cooling, Kent, England – inspiration for the opening scene of Great Expectations

To be at St James Church is to feel that you are on the edge of Nowhere.

Though there were signs of human habitation, there are no humans.

No one but yourself.

The church pays witness to lives lived on the margin, people whose lives came and went unnoticed.

It is a place of minimal expectations.

Yet those lives went on, and there is a powerful sense of a life on the margins being a life for all that, something which imbues the UK’s many used and disused (or redundant) churches, which makes their continued preservation so important.

It is not the chancels, naves and pews that matter, though they have their value.

It is the lives past that revolved around such buildings that are important.

They make things more actual than things really are.

They turn plain reality into reverie and connect our lives to stories – such as Pip’s.

Something of this Charles Dickens saw in Cooling, as he walked by, paused awhile, and then walked on.

Above: St. James Church, Cooling, Kent, England

Wikipedia informs me that Rochester is at the lowest bridging point of the River Medway, that Rochester was for many years a favourite of Charles Dickens (who owned nearby Gads Hill Place) basing his novels (The Pickwick Papers, Great Expectations, The Mystery of Edwin Drood) here, that the Diocese of Rochester is the second oldest in England, that King’s School is the second oldest continuously running school in the world, and that Rochester Castle has one of the best preserved keeps to be found in either England or France.

Above: Medway River, Rochester Bridge, Rochester, Kent, England

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Rochester

Above: King’s School, Rochester, Kent, England

Above: Rochester Castle, Rochester, Kent, England

Rochester was sacked at least twice and besieged on another occasion.

Rochester has produced two martyrs:

  • John Fisher (1469 – 1535), executed by King Henry VIII for refusing to sanction divorce from Queen Catherine of Aragon
  • Nicholas Ridley (1500 – 1555), executed by Queen Mary for being Protestant

Above: John Fisher

Above: King Henry VIII of England (1491 – 1547)

Above: Catherine of Aragon (1485 – 1536)

Above: Nicholas Ridley

Above: Queen Mary of England (1516 – 1588)

Rochester has for centuries been of great strategic importance through its position near the confluence of the Thames and the Medway.

During the First World War (1914 – 1918) the Short Brothers’ aircraft manufacturing company developed the first plane to launch a torpedo, the Short Admirality Type 184, at its seaplane factory on the River Medway not far from Rochester Castle.

In the intervening period between the World Wars, Short Brothers established a worldwide reputation as a constructor of flying boats.

During the Second World War (1939 – 1945), Short Brothers also designed and manufactured the first four-engined bomber, the Stirling.

Above: Statue of the Short Brothers – Oswald (1883 – 1969), Horace (1872 – 1917) and Eustace (1875-1932), Musswell Manor, Isle of Shippey, England

Britain’s decline in naval power and shipbuilding competitiveness led to the government decommissioning the nearby Royal Navy Shipyard at Chatham in 1984, which led to the subsequent demise of much local maritime industry.

Rochester and its neighbouring communities were hit hard by this and have experienced a painful adjustment to a post-industrial economy, with much social deprivation and unemployment resulting.

On the closure of Chatham Dockyard the area experienced an unprecedented surge in unemployment.

Above: Chatham Dockyard, 1830

Since 1980 the city has seen the revival of the historic Rochester Jack-in-the-Green May Day (1 May) dancing chimney sweeps tradition, which had died out in the early 1900s.

Above: Sweeps Dance, Rochester, Kent, 2006

Though not unique to Rochester (similar sweeps’ gatherings were held across southern England, notably in Bristol, Deptford, Whitstable and Hastings), its revival was directly inspired by Dickens’ description of the celebration in Sketches by Boz.

The festival has since grown from a small gathering of local Morris dance sides to one of the largest in the world. 

The festival begins with the “Awakening of Jack-in-the-Green” ceremony and continues in Rochester High Street over the May Bank Holiday weekend.

Above: Jack in the Green, Kingston, England

Jack in the Green, also known as Jack o’ the Green, is an English folk custom associated with the celebration of May Day (1 May).

It involves a pyramidal or conical wicker or wooden framework that is decorated with foliage being worn by a person as part of a procession, often accompanied by musicians.

The Jack in the Green tradition developed in England during the 18th century.

It emerged from an older May Day tradition — first recorded in the 17th century — in which milkmaids carried milk pails that had been decorated with flowers and other objects as part of a procession.

Increasingly, the decorated milk pails were replaced with decorated pyramids of objects worn on the head.

By the latter half of the 18th century the tradition had been adopted by other professional groups, such as bunters and chimney sweeps.

The earliest known account of a Jack in the Green came from a description of a London May Day procession in 1770.

By the 19th century, the Jack in the Green tradition was largely associated with chimney sweeps.

The tradition died out in the early 20th century.

Later that century, various revivalist groups emerged, continuing the practice of Jack in the Green May Day processions in various parts of England.

The Jack in the Green has also been incorporated into various modern Pagan parades and activities.

The Jack in the Green tradition has attracted the interest of folklorists and historians since the early 20th century.

 

Above: Jack in the Green procession, Hastings, England

There are numerous other festivals in Rochester apart from the Sweeps Festival.

The association with Dickens is the theme for Rochester’s two Dickens Festivals held annually in June and December. 

Above: Dickens Festival, Rochester, Kent, England

The Medway Fuse Festival usually arranges performances in Rochester.

Above: Medway Fuse Festival, Rochester, Kent, England

The latest festival to take shape is the Rochester Literature Festival, the brainchild of three local writers.

A Huguenot Museum was opened in Rochester on 13 May 2015.

The 1959 Ian Fleming novel Goldfinger describes James Bond driving along the A2 through the Medway towns from Strood to Chatham.

Of interest is the mention of “inevitable traffic jams” on the Strood side of Rochester Bridge, the novel being written some years prior to the construction of the M2 motorway Medway bypass.

Rochester is the setting of the controversial 1965 Peter Watkins TV film The War Game, which depicts the town’s destruction by a nuclear missile.

The 2011 adventure film Ironclad is loosely based upon the 1215 siege of Rochester Castle.

A scene in the 2001 film Last Orders, starring Bob Hoskins and Tom Courtenay, was filmed in Rochester High Street.

As I have only progressed in The Pickwick Papers as far as the end of Chapter 2, I will not burden you, my gentle readers, any further in describing the itinerary of the Pickwickians at this time.

Suffice to say that my reading prompts my explorations and my explorations prompt my reading.

Case in point are my travels with my wife to Mürren, Switzerland in January 2022.

Above: Mürren, Switzerland

Landschlacht to Mürren, Switzerland, Wednesday 6 January 2022

The travel discussions between the wife and I are far less formal than those of the Pickwick Club.

I mention places I would like to visit and eventually we visit them.

We had planned to visit Piz Gloria the previous May, but I stumbled and fell down in a St. Gallen street two weeks prior to our planned visit shattering my left wrist and right elbow.

The trip was postponed.

Finally we set off this day from our apartment building in Landschlacht.

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Charles Dickens, Preface to The Pickwick Papers

“The author’s object in this work was to place before the reader a constant succession of characters and incidents, to paint them in as vivid colours as he could command and to render them at the same time lifelike and amusing.

It is obvious that in a work published with a view to such considerations, no artfully interwoven or ingeniously complicated plot can with reason be expected.

The author ventures a hope that he has successfully surmounted the difficulties of his undertaking.

If it be objected that The Pickwick Papers are a mere series of adventures in which the scenes are ever changing and the characters come and go like the men and women we encounter in the real world, he can only content himself with reflection that they claim to be nothing else.

The same objections have been made to the works of some of the greatest novelists in the English language.

The following pages have been written from time to time almost as the periodical occasion arose.

If any of the author’s imperfect descriptions, while they afford amusement in the perusal, should induce one reader to think better of his fellow men and to look upon the brighter and more kindly side of human nature, he would indeed be proud and happy to have led to such a result.

Literature is not behind the ages but rather holds its place and strives to do its duty.”

Imaginative literature, which my blogs are and are not, primarily pleases rather than teaches.

I seek to do both in my writing.

I try to communicate experiences – ones that the reader can have, can share.

We experience things through the exercise of our senses and imagination.

We must act in such a way when reading a story that we let it act upon us.

We must allow it to move us.

We must let it do whatever it wants to do on us.

We must make ourselves open to it.

This is what I value in walking versus any other mode of travel – an awareness of the experience in all its sensory power.

Oh, how I wish that the journey I am about to describe had taken place on foot rather than in an automobile, but time and money tend to dictate most people’s itineraries!

The journey I am about to describe will take longer to show than the actual journey itself took, much like the TV series M.A.S.H. (1972 – 1983) lasted longer than the Korean War (1950 – 1953) it portrayed.

Landschlacht is a bedroom community and most residents of this hamlet of 1,452 souls work in Kreuzlingen, 15 kilometres to the west across from Konstanz, Germany.

Above: Landschlacht / Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Kreuzlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

This was not the case for my wife and during the time before I took up my position as a teacher in Türkiye neither was this the case for me.

Above: Flag of Turkey

My wife is a doctor gainfully and (mostly) happily employed at the nearby Kantonspital (cantonal hospital) in the hamlet of Münsterlingen to the west.

During the decade I was there, I mostly worked as a teacher in the towns of Weinfelden, Romanshorn and Herisau, and in the cities of Konstanz, Kreuzlingen and St. Gallen.

Above: Rathausstrasse, Weinfelden, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Romanshorn, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Herisau, Canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Switzerland

Above: St. Gallen, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Landschlacht lies on the shore of the Bodensee (Lake Constance) on the main road between Schaffhausen and Rorschach.

Above: Outline of the Bodensee (Lake Constance), shared between Switzerland, Germany and Austria

Above: Schaffhausen, Canton Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Above: Rorschach, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Landschlacht is a final bus stop for the Konstanz bus lines and a train stop on the Kreuzlingen – Romanshorn line.

Above: Logo of Konstanz buslines

Above: Landschlacht Bahnhof, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The first people settled on the shores of the Bodensee as early as the Neolithic Age, as evidenced by many finds. 

The settlement was first mentioned in 817 as Lanchasalachi

Above: Former tithe house, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Landschlacht was an episcopal fief of Konstanz. 

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Konstanz

In the High Middle Ages, the Bailiwick belonged to the barons of Güttingen and later to other families. 

Above: Güttingen Castle, Güttingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 1413, half of the court rule was sold to Hans Dürrenmüller and ten co-principles of Landschlacht, the other half went to the Petershausen Monastery in 1452 and to the Münsterlingen Monasters in 1486. 

Above: The Benedictine Abbey of Petershausen, Konstanz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany, 1627

In 1621, the eleven owner families sold their shares to the Münsterlingen Monastery, where they remained until 1798.

Above: Münsterlingen Monastery, Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Landschlacht always shared the fate of the Parish of Altnau (next town to the east). 

Above: Oberdorf (upper town), Altnau, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The St. Leonhard Chapel, built before 1000, is decorated with Gothic frescoes, the sole site in Landschlacht worth visiting.

Along with the Sylvester Chapel in the Goldbach district of Überlingen, the St. Leonhard Chapel is one of the oldest Romanesque chapels in the Lake Constance area. 

The oldest parts were created before the year 1000 and it has been frescoed since the 11th century.

The Passion cycle (2nd half of the 15th century) and the Leonhard cycle (dated 1432) are particularly well preserved.

The western half of the chapel with the entrance is Romanesque and built of coarse field stones. 

The other half of the chapel is Gothic and was added at the end of the 14th century. 

The chapel is equipped with Gothic tracery windows.

Above: St. Leonhard Chapel, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Interior of St. Leonhard Chapel, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 1855, the three-field system of farming still existed with livestock breeding, fruit growing and viticulture being practiced. 

Above: The three-field system used in medieval agriculture

In 1880, a cheese dairy was built. 

From 1898 the vines were destroyed because of phylloxera infestation (plant lice). 

Above: Unfriendly neighbourhood plant lice

In the 19th and 20th centuries, work was offered by industry and the cantonal hospitals (General and Psychiatric) that have existed since 1840. 

Above: Münsterlingen Monastery, now the cantonal hospital building

From 1961 Landschlacht experienced its first construction boom, a boom that has mostly fizzled.

A town that once had a general store and a post office no longer does.

Of the 1,452 inhabitants of the village of Landschlacht in 2018, 452 or 31.1% were foreign citizens, though I suspect I was its sole Canadian. 

498 (34.3%) were Evangelical Reformed and 456 (31.4%) Roman Catholic.

The latter is the religion of my spouse while I remain unaffiliated to any faith.

Perhaps to both religion’s and my benefit?

Landschlacht being a part of the Municipality of Münsterlingen requires a few words must be said regarding Münsterlingen.

Above: Coat of arms of Münsterlingen

The Municipality has a total of 3,512 inhabitants and is comprised of the communities of Landschlacht, Münsterlingen and Scherzingen.

Above: Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The village centre is on the southern shore of the Bodensee, with the grounds of the Münsterlingen Monastery adjoining to the east.

Above: Münsterlingen Monastery, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

According to legend, the monastery in Münsterlingen was founded around 986 by a sister of Abbot Gregor von Einsiedeln and dedicated to St. Walburga. 

Above: Einsiedeln Monastery, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

Above: Statue of St. Walburga (710 – 779), Contern, Canton Luxembourg, Luxembourg

In 1125, Münsterlingen was first mentioned in a document as Munsterlin

Pope Innocent IV confirmed the Augustinian Rule in 1254.

Above: Pope Innocent IV (né Sinibaldo de Fieschi) (1195 – 1254)

In 1288, the convent was able to buy its way out of the Bailiwick of the Lords of Klingen. 

It extended immunity for the monastic district and began establishing judicial rule over their courts. 

Above: Altenklingen Castle, Wigoltingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 1460, Münsterlingen came under the Kastvogtei of the seven federal towns that governed Thurgau Canton and was henceforth subject to their jurisdiction. 

Above: Structure of the Swiss Confederation in the 18th century

In 1524, the Protestant Reformation took hold. 

Above: German Protestant reformer Martin Luther (1483 – 1546)

In 1549, monastic life was restored by Benedictine nuns from Engelberg Abbey. 

Above: Engelberg Monastery, Canton Obwalden, Switzerland

1618 saw the monastery built as patronage of a reformed church in Scherzingen. 

Above: Reformed Church, Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

By 1716 the monastery had a new convent building and a new monastery church built further inland. 

From 1486 to 1621 Münsterlingen acquired jurisdiction over Landschlacht. 

In 1509, Münsterlingen was contractually part of Thurgau Canton. 

Above: Coat of arms of Canton Thurgau

The monastery retained jurisdiction over Münsterlingen, Landschlacht, Uttwil, Schönenbaumgarten and Belzstadel until 1798.

Above: Uttwil, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Schönenbaumgarten, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Langrickenbach, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

With the secularization of their property on the German side of the Bodensee and a number of bad harvests from 1805 to 1817, the monastery’s economy ran into difficulties.

In 1839, the Canton of Thurgau took over a wing of the building and opened the cantonal hospital in it in 1840. 

In 1848, Thurgau dissolved the monastery. 

In 1849, Doctor Ludwig Binswanger was entrusted with the treatment of the mentally ill. 

Above: Ludwig Binswanger Sr. (1820 – 1880)

In 1894, this department received its own building by the Lake. 

In 1972, after long disputes, the new building of the Münsterlingen Cantonal Hospital, which cost around 70 million Swiss francs, was ready for occupancy. 

On 1 January 1994, the political community of Münsterlingen was formed as part of the Thurgau community reorganization. 

It consists of the two formerly independent local communities of Landschlacht and Scherzingen. 

The new Municipality took its name and coat of arms from the old monastery complex in Münsterlingen.

In 1999, the cantonal hospital and the psychiatric clinic in Münsterlingen were integrated into Spital Thurgau AG. 

In 2005, this provides the Municipality 97% of its jobs.

The clinic and hospital alone employ 877 people. 

Above: Spital Thurgau, Münsterlingen

In the past, wine was cultivated on the surrounding slopes, but today it is mainly farming and pastoralism. 

Founded in 1886, the Rutishauser Winery, which merged with the Fenaco subsidiary DiVino to form Rutishauser-DiVino AG in 2021, achieved sales of almost 40 million francs in 2010 and bottled around three million bottles of wine. 

Above: Rutishauser Winery, Scherzingen, Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In 2016, Münsterlingen offered work to 2,290 people (converted to full-time positions). 

Of these, 1.2% worked in agriculture and forestry, 1.8% in industry, commerce and construction, and 97.0% in the service sector.  

The most important employers as aforementioned are the cantonal hospital and the psychiatric clinic.

Above: Logo for Thurgau Wirtschaft und Arbeit (Business and Labour)

(Which kind of lends credibility to the joke that one does not need to be crazy to live here but it really helps if you are.)

In terms of rail transport, Münsterlingen has three stations on the Selllinie (lake line): Münsterlingen-Scherzingen, Münsterlingen Spital and Landschlacht. 

As aforementioned, a bus line connects Münsterlingen to the city bus networks of the nearby cities of Kreuzlingen and Konstanz.

Above: Münsterlingen-Scherzingen Bahnhof, Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Above: Münsterlingen-Spital Bahnhof, Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Münsterlingen Abbey (taken over by the Canton of Thurgau) has a baroque church. 

Above: St. Remigus Church, Münsterlingen Abbey, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

With Hagnau on the other side of the Lake, there is a custom to carry the bust of St. John the Baptist across the frozen lake to the respective partner community during the Seegfrörne (the freezing over).

Above: Bust of St. John the Baptist, Interior of St. Remigus Church, Münsterlingen Abbey, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Since 1963, the last time the Bodensee froze over, the wooden head has remained in the former monastery church of St. Remigius of Münsterlingen.

Above: Record of the years when the Bodensee froze over, Lochau-Hörbranz, Vorarlberg, Austria

Not shown but historically recorded are the years 875, 895, 1074, 1076, 1108, 1217, 1227, 1277, 1323, 1325, 1378, 1379, 1383, 1409, 1431, 1435, 1460, 1465, 1470, 1479, 1512, 1553, 1560, 1564, 1565, 1571, 1573, 1684, 1695 and 1788.

Above: Commemoration of the first crossing, ice procession in 1963 and togetherness at the lake on a boulder in Hagnau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Ice procession of 1830 from Münsterlingen in Switzerland to Hagnau in Germany across the frozen Bodensee (Lake Constance)

Above: Hagnau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Above: Interior of St. John the Baptist Church, Hagnau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

The Kreuzlingen – Romanshorn railway line runs between the village and the Lake. 

Below the railway line in a park area by the Lake are the buildings of the privatized Psychiatric Clinic founded in 1839, formerly the Cantonal Psychiatric Hospital, and the Mansio Foundation. 

Above the tracks, the monastery is the Spital Thurgau. 

Münsterlingen Seeseite” (lakeside) is a euphemism in the local colloquial language for the psychiatric clinic.

The psychiatric institution in Münsterlingen has come under public criticism since 2013 because children from the Catholic children’s home in Fischingen were alleged to have been exposed to illegitimate drug trials there in the early 1970s.

Above: Psychiatrische Klinik Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

The Municipality has known more than its fair share of personalities.

No pun intended on the Psychiatric Clinic.

The Municipality has known:

  • Ludwig Binswanger Sr. and Otto Binswanger (psychiatrists)

Otto, the son of Ludwig Binswanger Sr. established an international reputation as a clinician. 

The development of an independent child and adolescent psychiatry goes back to his suggestion. 

In Jena (Switzerland) he worked in an advisory capacity at the sanatorium for children and young people on Sophienhöhe Street. 

In addition to his extensive work, he worked in a field hospital during WW1 as an expert and advisor to the Thuringian army corps. 

Among his more than 100 publications are his probably most important works on epilepsy, neurasthenia and psychiatry as well as his work on hysteria. 

Death overtook him on 15 July 1929 while playing cards.

Above: Otto Binswanger (1852 – 1929)

Above: The card hand purportedly held by US gunfighter Wild Bill Hickok (1837 – 1876) at the time of his death: black aces and eights

Here is a germ of a story idea that reminds me of The Seventh Seal, a 1957 Swedish historical fantasy film written and directed by Ingmar Bergman.

Set in Sweden during the Black Death, it tells of the journey of a medieval knight (Max von Sydow) and a game of chess he plays with the personification of Death (Bengt Ekerot), who has come to take his life.

Bergman developed the film from his own play Wood Painting.

The title refers to a passage from the Book of Revelation, used both at the very start of the film, and again towards the end, beginning with the words:

And when the Lamb had opened the seventh seal, there was silence in Heaven about the space of half an hour“.

Here, the motif of silence refers to the “silence of God“, a major theme of the film.

Above: Death (Bengt Ekerot:1920 – 1971) and Antonius Block (Max von Sydow:1929 – 2020) choose sides for the chess game

I am also reminded of Kenny Roger’s song The Gambler:

The song tells the story of a late-night meeting on a train “bound for nowhere” between the narrator and a man known only as “the gambler“.

The gambler tells the narrator that he can tell he is down on his luck (“out of aces“) by the look in his eyes, and offers him advice in exchange for his last swallow of whisky.

After the gambler takes the drink (and bums a cigarette), he gives the following advice:

You’ve got to know when to hold ’em, know when to fold ’em,

Know when to walk away, know when to run.


You never count your money when you’re sittin’ at the table,

There’ll be time enough for countin’ when the dealin’s done.

The gambler then mentions that the “secret to survivin’ is knowing what to throw away and knowing what to keep” and that “the best you can hope for is to die in your sleep“.

Shortly thereafter, the gambler puts out his cigarette and dies in his sleep;

Somewhere in the darkness, the gambler, he broke even.”

The narrator finds in his final words “an ace that he could keep“.

  • Julia Onken (psychologist / psychotherapist)

Julia Onken first did an apprenticeship as a stationer and then worked as a buyer in a stationery store. 

When her second daughter started kindergarten, she began studying at the Academy for Applied Psychology in Zürich and continued her education in person-centered client-centred psychotherapy and analytical couples therapy. 

After graduation, she worked in prison and probation, as a lecturer in adult education and opened her own psychotherapeutic practice. 

After her divorce she founded the Frauen Seminar Bodensee (FSB) in 1987. 

In 1998 she founded the association Education Fund for Women, which she has been President ever since. 

She has been a writer since 1987.

Her non-fiction books and guidebooks are also available in numerous translations. 

Her daughter Maya Onken is also a writer.

Some titles from the pen of Julia Onken:

  • Fire Sign Woman: A Report on Menopause
  • Borrowed Luck: An Account of Everyday Love
  • Father Men: An Account of the Father-Daughter Relationship and Its Impact on Partnership
  • Mirror Images: Types of men – How women see through them and recognize themselves in the process
  • The Cherries in the Neighbor’s Garden: The causes of cheating and the conditions for staying at home
  • Mistress in Her Own House: Why women lose their self-confidence and how to regain it
  • If You Really Love Me: The most common relationship pitfalls and how to avoid them 
  • Indian Summer. An Account of the Postmenopausal Period
  • Actually Everything Went Wrong: My Way to Happiness 
  • Help, I’m an Emancipated Mother: A Mother and Daughter Argument 
  • On the Day of the White Chrysanthemums: An Account of Love and Jealousy
  • Love Ping Pong: The Relationship Game between Man and Woman (with Mathias Jung)
  • Raven Daughters: Why I still love my mother
  • With the Heart of the Lioness: Why women lose their self-confidence and how to regain it 

Above: Julia Onken

Here again, a number of thoughts, albeit unpopular ones, spring to mind:

I have a suspicion that there are many women who get into psychiatry who are more interested in aiding and understanding themselves rather than a burning zeal to help or understand others, especially the opposite gender.

Why do we use pheromones as an excuse to justify some women’s behaviour?

It seems to me that far too often there are women who lack accountability for their actions and use the excuse of biology and gender to excuse the inexcusable acts that some do.

I am not privy to the details of her failed marriage.

Perhaps her ex was unworthy of her.

But at the same time I am reminded that in over 70% of failed marriages it is the woman who initiates the divorce.

Can all these divorces be solely the fault of men?

  • Peter Stamm and Tabea Steiner (writers)

Peter Stamm was born the son of an accountant and grew up with three siblings in Weinfelden in the Canton of Thurgau. 

Above: Peter Stamm Weg, Weinfelden, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

According to his own statements, he was underchallenged at school and therefore spent a lot of time in his fantasy world from an early age. 

Stamm completed a commercial apprenticeship and worked at times as an accountant. 

Stamm’s first three novels never found a publisher. 

Above: Peter Stamm

Agnes, the fourth novel he began writing when he was 29, was not published until six years later. 

After Stamm studied English at the University of Zürich for six months in 1987 and then lived in New York City for six months, he switched to psychology, with psychopathology and computer science as a minor. 

Above: Logo of the University of Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Images of New York City, USA

He was also an intern worked at various psychiatric clinics. 

He explains his choice of studies because of his interest in literature:

He wanted to find out more about people as a subject of literature. 

Dropping out of psychology studies was a conscious decision to put writing at the center of his life. 

Now his only choice was to write or go back to work as an accountant.

After lengthy stays in New York, Paris and Scandinavia, Peter Stamm settled in Winterthur in 1990. 

Above: Winterthur, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Here he worked primarily as a journalist, which enabled him to publish his texts for the first time. 

Among others, Stamm worked for the Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) (New Zürich Times), the Tages-Anzeiger (Daily Gazette), Weltwoche (World Week) and the satirical magazine Nebelspalter (Fog splitter). 

From 1997 he was a member of the editorial board of the literary magazine Entwürfe (Drafts)

From 1998 to 2003 he lived in Zürich, since then back in Winterthur. 

Above: Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

After the success of his first novel and the publications that followed, his work as a journalist took a back seat to literature, on which he now concentrates. 

Stamm has been a member of the Association of Swiss Authors since 2003.

Peter Stamm is the author of narrative prose, radio and theatre plays. 

Characteristic is his distanced narrative style and his simple style, which consists of short main clauses and almost completely does without decorative adjectives, metaphors or comparisons. 

Stamm himself describes that his style is strongly based on a repeated reduction of what is written. 

The more language recedes into the background, the more real the drawn images become.

In his own words, Stamm writes “about people and about relationships between people”. 

Recurring themes are the diverse possibilities of love relationships, the impossibility of love, distance and closeness, and the relationship between image and reality. 

In his work, the focus is not on the content, but on the way in which something is told. 

That’s why he doesn’t choose original content:

That distracts from the quality of the text.

With his third novel, An einem Tag wie diesem (On a Day Like This), Stamm moved from the Arche publishing house in Zürich to the S. Fischer publishing house in Frankfurt am Main. 

Even before that, unlike most Swiss authors, he sold his books five times more often in Germany than in Switzerland. 

Fellow writer Daniel Arnet explained this with a “Helvetism-free language” and “content that is free of geraniums” and “not federally coded” in its universality. 

Above: Daniel Arnet

A review in the Literary Quartet in 1999, Marcel Reich-Ranicki commented that Stamm’s Blitzreis (Black Ice) collection of stories was one of the most beautiful and important books of the season, while Hellmuth Karasek judged:

This is a narrator who can do a lot because he knows how to omit and concentrate.” 

Above: Title screen shot of Das Literarische Quartett (The Literary Quartet)(2DF)

Above: Marcel Reich-Ranicki (1920 – 2013)

Above: Hellmuth Karasek (1934 – 2015)

More than 150 translations of Peter Stamm’s works have appeared in 40 languages.

The novel Agnes was filmed in 2016 by Johannes Schmid under the same name. 

Storyline: The 41-year-old non-fiction author Walter begins an affair with the much younger and unapproachable student Agnes. 

She persuades him to write a novel about her so that she can find out how her personality affects him. 

Fiction and reality soon become blurred:

Agnes realizes that Walter is beautifying her in the novel and glorifying their relationship. 

Increasingly she behaves as Walter describes her in the story. 

When Agnes becomes pregnant, Walter reacts differently than Agnes hoped so that she breaks up with him. 

After the miscarriage, they initially find each other again. 

When Agnes decides that the novel should end with her suicide, it remains unclear to the viewer whether her death by freezing is just fictitious or also real. 

In the end, Walter is alone again.

Based on the short story Der Lauf der Dinge (The Natural Way of Things) by Peter Stamm, Ulrike Kofler made the feature film Was wir wollten (What We Wanted) (2019).

Storyline: Niklas and Alice are a happy couple who really lack nothing, but they still suffer from their unfulfilled desire to have children. 

Four attempts at artificial insemination using in vitro fertilization have already failed. 

Therefore, the two decide to take a break in Sardinia to rethink their life plans together.

In Sardinia, a lot of things come up that the two had tried to suppress up until now. 

An apparently good-humoured couple from Tyrol (Austria) is moving into the house next door. 

Their two children, the pubescent David and the five-year-old Denise, initially make it difficult for Alice to come to terms with her unfulfilled desire to have children. 

David’s suicide attempt changes Niklas and Alice’s attitude towards the meaning of life and one suspects that they are abandoning their previous plan of life.

My favourite Stamm novel is Weit über das Land (To the Back of Beyond).

Storyline: Happily married with two children and a comfortable home in a Swiss town, Thomas and Astrid enjoy a glass of wine in their garden on a night like any other.

Called back to the house by their son’s cries, Astrid goes inside, expecting her husband to join her in a bit.

But Thomas gets up and, after a brief moment of hesitation, opens the gate and walks out. 

No longer bound by the ties of his everyday life – family, friends, work -Thomas begins a winding trek across the countryside, exposed as never before to the Alpine winter.

At home, Astrid wonders where he is gone, when he will come back, whether he is still alive. 

Following Thomas and Astrid on their separate paths, To the Back of Beyond becomes ultimately a meditation on the limits of freedom and on the craving to be wanted.

There is much in this story that I can relate to – of my own life’s journey and of the journeys of others.

I wonder how Onken would classify this type of man.

Above: Le Penseur (The Thinker), Auguste Rodin Museum, Paris, France

Tabea Steiner grew up on a farm in Altishausen in the Canton of Thurgau. 

Above: Tabea Steiner

Above: Altishausen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

She trained as a primary school teacher and studied German and history at the University of Bern from 2004 to 2016. 

Above: Logo of the University of Bern, Canton Bern, Switzerland

Since 2004, Steiner has been working in the mediation of literature. 

She organizes and moderates readings and is, among other things, the initiator and member of the management board of the Thun Literature Festival, which is organized by the Project Literaare.  

Above: Thun, Canton Bern, Switzerland

In her first novel, Balg (Brat), Steiner tells of a childhood in the country:

Chris and Antonia dream of a family idyll in the country. 

However, the whole thing turns out to be more difficult than expected, since, on the one hand, everyday life with Timon, her child, proves to be more strenuous than expected and, on the other hand, Chris has trouble finding enough work in the country. 

The young couple separates shortly thereafter and from then on Antonia takes care of her son alone. 

It turns out early on that the boy is a problematic child. 

Because in the playgroup he can’t help but bite or bother other children. 

His behavior remains precarious. 

At the same time, Antonia threatens to get lost in the everyday life of the village and cares only half-heartedly for her son. 

No one seems to be able to break through to Timon except Valentin, the current postman and former teacher who once taught Antonia. 

Antonia doesn’t like Valentin and tries to have as little to do with him as there was an incident with Tanja, Valentin’s daughter and Antonia’s best friend. 

The boy often visits Valentin because he has rabbits that Timon likes to take care of. 

Since the situation with the difficult boy is not getting any better and he has now also started smoking, Lydia (Timon’s grandmother) discusses with Konrad (another villager) a possible break for the mother and her son. 

He is to spend a while on a farm. 

He likes it there very much, but Antonia is not satisfied and goes to pick him up against his will. 

The relationship between the two is getting worse and worse. 

Shortly thereafter, Antonia introduces her new boyfriend (Markus). 

Markus and the boy don’t like each other. 

It goes so far that the new lover says he only comes when the lad is gone. 

When the time with Timon doesn’t get any easier, the lovers decide to go on vacation. 

The mother sells Timon’s new bike, which he had longed for, for a new coat. 

In addition, Markus persuades Antonia that he can have her son’s room and that the boy can move in with Lydia. 

This change of residence is intended as an interim solution until the boy has to go into a home. 

When the boy finds out about this decision, he leaves home and spends the night in the abandoned cheese factory. 

Valentin supports him by providing him with food and washing his clothes. 

When the boy returns to the apartment one evening, he happens to meet Markus. 

The two fight. 

Finally, the half-naked boy is dumped at Lydia’s front door. 

In the future he will spend the week at the home and at the weekend he will stay with his grandmother. 

The story ends with a dialogue between Lydia and Valentin. 

They talk about Timon and Valentin offers him a job.

Told chronologically, the 236-page story follows Timon from birth to early teens. 

Flashbacks into the lives of the people around are reproduced piece by piece in the form of memories and thoughts, which never come together to form a complete picture even at the end of the novel. 

The riddle surrounding the dispute between Antonia, or rather Tanja, and Valentin creates a tension that runs through the entire book.

In her review of the novel, Xenia Boyarsky wrote: 

The perspectives are worked out precisely and the relationships between the characters can be felt in detail. 

In the constant alternation of observing and being observed, the inhabitants of the novel appear both sympathetic and unsympathetic at the same time, and the dichotomy of good and evil becomes blurred. 

The reader staggers from one character perspective to the next, always looking for answers, for the why and maybe for improvement.

Tabea Steiner writes mercilessly, directly and without hesitation. 

Every sentence reverberates, makes you pause and at one point or another even put the book aside because what is there seems unbelievable at first glance.“, writes Xenia Bojarski.

Above: Xenia Bojarski

And yet Steiner tells the story with convincing sensitivity and does not turn the inside of the protagonists inside out, as Gallus Frei-Tomic writes in his review of the novel: 

Another quality of this novel are all the half-shadows that are not illuminated, the mere hints that are left to the reader, but which resonate and give the book, the narration, space. 

And last but not least, it is the calm, careful way of storytelling, a language that not only carefully approaches the content, but also in its expression.”

Above: Gallus Frei-Tomic

In the official laudatory speech of the Swiss Book Prize, the writer Monika Steiner praises:

Tabea Steiner manages to control the tension through the dramaturgy, the reader feels the escalating drama without coming up with catastrophes and violent events. 

As a narrator, she keeps her distance, soberly describes the everyday life of the single mother, documents excerpts of village life and the people in Timon’s life. 

From the very first sentence – “The amniotic sac bursts, Chris drives Antonia to the hospital in the small town nearby, twenty-four hours later the birth is initiated.” – you are drawn in by the pull, which is caused by the changing perspectives of the main characters and also the non-conforming perception at times generated by Timon is taken away.

The author tells in an impressive way how a child slips away from everyone.” 

She goes on to say that from beginning to end, no chapters break or stop the narrative flow. 

“Every word is spot on, every selected episode of this sad childhood shows the traces on the child’s soul and the consequences of it in razor-sharp images. 

And nobody, neither the parents, the grandmother with her daughter, the teacher, manages to have a real conversation. 

Therein lies the true art of this harrowing story. 

The novel is a desperately tender book about love and speechlessness. 

It becomes a literary event through the richness of its images and the sovereign intensity of the language treatment.

Above: Monika Steiner

I find myself unsympathetic to Antonia.

She abandons her husband at a time when he needed her emotional support, then neglects her son in search of her own emotional needs.

Her son finds happiness on a farm and she takes him from it against his will.

Her selfishness and thoughtlessness create the broken boy.

The world needs fewer women like Antonia.

I suspect Onken would be more sympathetic to Antonia than I.

  • Timon Altweg and Nils Günther (pianists)

Timon Altwegg has been living in Kreuzlingen, by the Bodensee, since 1992, from where he has a busy concert schedule. 

He has become a sought-after soloist and chamber musician and has been invited to perform in concerts throughout the United States and throughout Europe. 

In the summer of 2001, Timon Altwegg was invited to the Llanca festival in Spain. 

Further concerts with him were broadcast live on Hungarian radio and television as well as on Austrian television (ORF). 

Timon Altwegg also celebrated great successes in South America:

In 2005 and in autumn 2007 he toured through Ecuador, Colombia, Guatemala and El Salvador.

In May 2004, Timon Altwegg was acclaimed by an audience of 1,200 in a historic concert when he became the first foreign soloist to perform with the Iraqi National Symphony Orchestra in Baghdad since 1990. 

Timon Altwegg’s excellent technique is also appreciated by many contemporary composers who entrust him with the world premiere of their works.

Above: Timon Altwegg

As a composer, Nils Günther orients himself towards the doctrine of the phases of change. 

His music is medically therapeutic in the sense that it seeks to bring the listener into a state of balance.

Above: Nils Günther

  • The German cyclist Jan Ullrich once resided here.

Above: Jan Ullrich

Jan Ullrich was born in Rostock as the second child of the concrete worker Werner Ullrich and his wife Marianne, née Kaatz. 

He grew up with two brothers (Stefan and Thomas Ullrich) and a half-brother (Felix Kaatz) in Biestow and Papendorf.

Ullrich’s father first worked in a Rostock record factory and had been stationed in Rostock as a soldier since 1973. 

Marianne Ullrich studied agricultural sciences at the University of Rostock, completed her studies with a thesis on the effects of grain aphids and worked as a waitress in a Biestower inn. 

Ullrich’s parents separated in 1979.

His father founded a new family in Rostock and moved to Bad Schwartau after reunification, but lost contact with his son.

Above: Rostock, Mecklenburg-West Pomerania, Germany

In 1997, Jan Ullrich was the first and only German to win the Tour de France. 

In addition, he was five-time 2nd and once 4th in the Tour, World Amateur Road Race Champion, twice World Individual Time Trial Champion, and winner of the 2000 Olympic Road Race.

Due to his involvement in the Spanish doping scandal Fuentes, he was excluded from the Tour de France 2006 and his contract terminated without notice. 

(The Fuentes doping scandal was a doping scandal in international cycling. 

The eponymous former team doctor of the Liberty Seguros cycling team, Eufemiano Fuentes, had been selling illegal, performance-enhancing drugs to people on the international cycling scene since at least 2003, through an extensive network. 

On 23 May 2006, as part of a raid, Spanish police arrested Fuentes as well as Liberty Seguros’ sporting director Manolo Saiz and medic José Luis Merano. 

They seized large quantities of blood bags and doping substances, as well as a list of code names that were interpreted as cyclist pseudonyms. 

Above: Eufemiano Fuentes

According to the list, the suspected customers included some of the top cyclists of the time, such as Jan Ullrich, Ivan Basso and Francisco Mancebo, as well as over 50 other cyclists. 

The scandal attracted a great deal of media attention when those 58 riders were excluded from participating in the 2006 Tour de France, including eventual two-time Tour winner Alberto Contador. 

In Germany, the investigations by the Bonn public prosecutor’s office against Jan Ullrich and his personal adviser Rudy Pevenage were the focus of media interest.

The Fuentes scandal is the most comprehensive doping affair in cycling history. 

The incidents caused lasting damage to the public image of cycling, especially since many criminal investigations against suspected drivers and officials remained fruitless due to the lack of anti-doping laws and the professional cyclists concerned were able to continue their careers without impairments or after short-term suspensions.

In addition to cyclists, members of other sports, especially track and field athletes and soccer players, have also been linked to the network. 

In December 2010, the affair reached a new high with another 14 arrests, including Marta Dominguez, the vice-president of the Spanish Athletics Federation.)

Above: Marta Dominguez

After years of proceedings, the Court of Arbitration for Sport (CAS) found Ullrich guilty of doping in 2012 and annulled his successes as of 1 May 2005. 

Above: Béthusy Castle, headquarters of the Court of Arbitration for Sport in Lausanne, Canton Vaud, Switzerland

On 26 February 2007, Ullrich declared his active cycling career over.

I have often wondered:

How does a person psychologically come back from such a public shaming?

Ullrich lived in Merdingen, Germany, from 1994 to 2002 with his partner, Gaby Weiss, with whom he had a daughter, Sarah Maria, on 1 July 2003.

Above: Merdingen, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

They moved to Münsterlingen (Scherzingen) in 2002.

Since separating in 2005, allegedly because Weiss’s reluctance to be in the media spotlight conflicted with Ullrich’s celebrity life, Ullrich continued to live in Scherzingen.

Weiss returned with Sarah to Merdingen.

Above: Merdingen town hall with St. Remigius Church in the background

In September 2006, Ullrich married Sara Steinhauser, the sister of his former teammate and training partner, Tobias.

Their first child, Max, was born five weeks prematurely on 7 August 2007.

Their second son, Benno, was born on 25 January 2011.

A third son, Toni, was born on 31 October 2012.

Above: Scherzingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

On the evening of 19 May 2014, Ullrich, under the influence of alcohol, caused a serious traffic accident in Mattwil (Canton Thurgau), injuring two people and causing property damage of tens of thousands of Swiss francs. 

Ullrich stated, among other things, that he had “slipped off the brake pedal”.

Ullrich was convicted of drunk driving.

He received a suspended sentence of four years plus a fine of €10,000.

Above: Mattwil, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

In August 2016, Ullrich moved with his family from Münsterlingen to Establiments north of the Mallorcan capital Palma.

Personal issues with alcohol and drugs led to his separation from his wife, Sara, at the end of 2017.

She moved back to Germany with their three sons.

On 3 August 2018, Ullrich faced charges in Spain after he broke in and threatened his neighbour, German actor and filmmaker Til Schweiger, in Mallorca.

After the incident, he announced that he would seek therapy and traveled to Germany a few days later for this purpose.

Above: Palma de Mallorca, Balearic Islands, Spain

On 9 August 2018, the police arrested him in the luxury hotel Villa Kennedy in Frankfurt am Main. 

Under the influence of alcohol and drugs, he is said to have “choked an escort until her eyes went black“. 

Above: Villa Kennedy, Frankfurt am Main, Hesse, Germany

After his release from police custody, he was temporarily committed to a psychiatric hospital for an incident. 

On 26 September 2018, a catering worker filed a criminal complaint against Ullrich for bodily harm because he is said to have pressed his thumb on his larynx at Hamburg Airport.

He then went to a rehab clinic.

By June 2019, Ullrich was on the mend. 

According to his own statement, he is “clean”. 

He now lives in Merdingen again and has regular contact with his family.

On 28 August 2019, a German court ordered him to pay a fine of €7,200.

Ullrich featured on a podcast with equally disgraced ex-cyclist Lance Armstrong covering the 2021 UCI Road World Championships, in which Ullrich said that he was fully recovered from his personal difficulties but that he had almost suffered the same fate as Marco Pantani, who died following acute cocaine poisoning in 2004.

Above: Lance Armstrong

Ullrich told Armstrong:

Three years ago I had big problems and then you came to see me.

I was so glad you came, and yes, I was just like Marco Pantani . . . nearly dead.

Above: Italian racing cyclist Marco Pantani (1970 – 2004)

Ullrich’s chances, his abilities and his training status were regularly the subject of lively discussions among journalists, cycling experts and fans over the years of his active cycling career. 

For example, the sports journalist Oskar Beck wrote:

For a short time, the whole of cycling Germany had to fear that he would ruin himself with these escapades – too much cake in winter, ominous pills in the disco, wheel stands that were knocked over and similar mishaps.” 

Above: Oskar Beck

Ullrich was also often accused by critics of not having the toughness, the unconditional will to win or the meticulous preparation for the season.

Eddy Merckx, for example, said :

If Ullrich had grown up in Belgium, he would have won the Tour three times. 

It’s not all in the body.

It’s in the head.

Above: Belgian racing cyclist Eddy Merckx

What is wrong with men?

There is a feeling in the air that men can learn to be happier, better people and that it can be a positive thing to be a man.

Men are not monsters – at least not by choice.

Boys in our society are horrendously under-fathered and are not given the processes or the mentor figures to help their growth into mature men.

With no deep training in healthy masculinity, boys’ bodies get bigger, but they do not have the inner changes to match.

They act out a role – a complete facade which does not work in any of life’s arenas.

Men are not winners.

There are very few happy men.

(Girls, for all the obstacles put in their way, at least grow up with a continuous exposure to women at home, at school and in friendship networks.

From this they learn a communicative style of womanhood that enables them to get close to other women and give and receive support throughout their lives.)

Male friendship networks are awkward and oblique, lacking in emotional intimacy and short term.

Boys and young men never know the inner world of older men, so each makes up an image based on the externals which he then acts out to “prove” he is a man.

Just as a chameleon bases its colour on its surroundings and has no “true” colour, so men often have very little sense of their true selves.

We are lost and unhappy.

The lack of help to grow into a man and the resulting desperate clinging to an “I’m fine” facade has disastrous consequences.

Men are a mess.

The terrible effects on our marriages, fathering abilities, our health and our leadership skills are a matter of public record.

Our marriages fail, our children hate us, we die from stress and on the way we destroy the world.

Women have had to overcome oppression, but men’s difficulties are with isolation.

Women’s enemies are largely in the world around them – a world they have shaped for themselves.

Men’s enemies are often on the inside – in the walls we put around our own hearts.

The enemies, the prisons from which men must escape are loneliness, compulsive competition and lifelong emotional timidity.

Men are a problem to women, but rarely is this intentional.

We are to an even greater degree a problem to ourselves.

Men and women are co-victims in patterns of living and relating that are in drastic need of revision.

The issue I have with some women is their tendency to support one another by blaming men for all their woes without acknowledging that perhaps some of women’s behaviour is also responsible for the damage they do to themselves and their partners.

Women claim that men dominate the world and are demanding equal rights.

I am all for this, but, ladies, equal rights require equal responsibility (along with equal difficulty).

One cannot ask for support and equality simultaneously.

Feminism is about women liberating themselveschanging their perceptions, laws and employment practices.

A man cannot be a feminist any more than a lion can graze on grass.

But you cannot liberate only half the human race.

Any move to change the order of things which does not also address the fact that men are equally lost, trapped and miserable only creates a backlash.

Rather than blaming all men for their woes, women should take accountability for themselves and acknowledge that their perceptions of male and female roles need changing and play an important part in the healing needed between the genders.

Too often there is an expectation that a man must be a woman’s support system emotionally (and often financially) while men are supposed to be emotionally (and financially) strong without the necessary foundations that maturity should have developed.

Happiness is never found in someone else.

Happiness must be developed from within ourselves before we are emotionally capable of loving relationships.

It is easy to condemn men like Ullrich and Armstrong, but we need to go beyond censure and instead seek comprehension and compassion for these unhappy men and their unfortunate decisions.

  • Sabine Wen-Ching Wang (playwright/poet)

Sabine Wen-Ching Wang was born in 1973 to a Swiss mother and a Taiwanese father in Münsterlingen, Thurgau.

She grew up in Appenzell. 

Above: Appenzell, Canton Appenzell Innerrhoden, Switzerland

She studied Sinology and East Asian Art History in Zürich and Taipei.

Above: Images of Taipei, Taiwan

Wang mainly writes theatre and radio plays and poetry. 

She also publishes texts in anthologies and magazines.

Some works penned by Wang:

  • Be crazy (2003)(Theatre play)
  • Late (2004) (Theatre play)
  • The pocket (2005) (Theatre play)
  • This is not a love song (2006) (Theatre play)
  • The green chick (2008) (Theatre play)
  • Corea.(2009) (Theatre play)
  • La Ceremoni(2010) (Theatre play)
  • Dog Dog (2011) (Theatre play)
  • Cosmos Hotel (2000) (Radio play)
  • The Invitation (2009) (Radio play)
  • The Land in Me (2010) (Poetry)
  • The Children’s Room as Terra Incognita (2005) (Essay)

Above: Sabine Wen-Ching Wang

  • Laurens Walter (Austrian actor)

Above: Laurens Walter

In 2001, Laurens Walter stood in front of the camera for the first time for the TV film When Love Is Lost

Walter also played in the feature film Die Österreichische Methode (The Austrian Method) (2006). 

(In this collective project of five young directors, the stories of five women, who are by no means weak, intersect…

24 hours later, some will have survived, some will have not:

Julia suddenly discovers the longing to explore her own abysses. 

A nocturnal odyssey takes her to a ski hall where she wants to explore “the Austrian Method“.

An unwanted guest is sitting with psychologist Roman Fischer and his wife Carmen:

Eva has come to dinner and doesn’t want to leave.

Clara is struggling with the diagnosis of a brain tumor. 

She oscillates desperately between repression and the decision to take her own life.

Singer Maleen tries to break open the deadlocked mechanisms of her love affair with the pianist Sascha with a poisoned ecstasy pill.

Hans and Mona (who is tied to the bed) live an amour fou in which the roles of perpetrator and victim become blurred.

The episodic film is not primarily a film about tiredness. 

It is much more about returning to life through a borderline experience or perhaps arriving at it for the first time. 

It is about the feeling of being in the wrong life and missing out on what is really important. 

Just like when you are diagnosed with a serious illness, you suddenly no longer understand how you could waste your life with all these everyday worries and petty entanglements.)

Above: Flag of Austria (Österreich)

Walter became known to a wider audience through the role of Lars Lehnhoff in the TV series Stromberg.

 

(Stromberg is a German, award-winning comedy TV series named after the central protagonist Bernd Stromberg, around whom the events of the series revolve. 

Stromberg is an adaptation of the British series The Office.

A TV team accompanies the everyday office life of the fictitious Capitol Versicherung AG with the camera. 

The place of action is usually the claims settlement department M-Z, which is headed by Bernd Stromberg. 

Of course, Stromberg wants his team – especially him, as the manager and “dad” of the department – to always be shown from the best side. 

However, he rarely succeeds in putting “his team“, and above all himself, in a good light.)

Above: Christoph Maria Herbst (Bernd Stromberg)

Walter played his first leading role (Dirk) in the feature film Morscholz (2008).

(The film Morscholz does not tell a story, but describes a state, the state of unfulfilled relationships in a family, the struggle for love and life itself.

One of the protagonists is Bernd, who almost despairs of his inner helplessness. 

He watches helplessly as his family slips away from him. 

His wife Fabienne can no longer stand him.

Since Bernd is unable to face his problems, alcohol is often the only way out for him. 

The deaf-mute Flipper is no less his victim.

Bernd’s sister Gertrud works with a pinball machine in a beverage store. 

From time to time Flipper comes to her house. 

Since Gertrud lives alone and is lonely, she carefully tries to approach Flipper.

Nephew Dirk can’t stand the boredom of the village and shows Michel, the son of Fabienne and Bernd, how best to kill wasps.

During one of the nightly senseless binges in the party room, the situation escalates:

Dirk goes nuts and threatens Bernd with a gun.)

In 2017, Walter played the role of Commissioner Fischer in the film drama Aus dem Nichts (In the Fade).

(Aus dem Nichts is a film by Fatih Akin, inspired by the 2004 nail bomb attack in Köln (Cologne) by the National Socialist Underground (NSU) (neo-Nazis) terrorist cell. 

On 9 June 2004, a nail bomb detonated in Köln, in a business area popular with immigrants from Turkey.

Twenty-two people were wounded, with four sustaining serious injuries.

A barber shop was destroyed.

Many shops and numerous parked cars were seriously damaged by the explosion and by the nails added to the bomb for extra damage.

Authorities initially excluded the possibility of a terrorist attack.

The bomb, which contained more than 800 nails, was hidden in a travel compartment on a bicycle left in front of the barber shop.

Above: Keupstrasse, Köln, Germany – where the 2004 nail bombing occurred

In November 2011, after having been accused by authorities of being responsible for a robbery in Eisenach, the neo-Nazi terrorist group National Socialist Underground (Nationalsozialistischer Untergrund) released a video claiming responsibility for the Köln bombing.

The National Socialist Underground (NSU) was a neo-Nazi terrorist organization in Germany formed around 1999 to murder people with a migrant background for racist and xenophobic motives. 

The three main perpetrators Uwe Mundlos (1973 – 2011), Uwe Böhnhardt (1977 – 2011) and Beate Zschäpe came from Jena (East Thuringia) and lived in hiding in Chemnitz and Zwickau (Saxony) from 1998. 

From 2000 to 2007, they murdered nine migrants and policewoman Michèle Kiesewetter (1984 – 2007), committed 43 murder attempts, three bomb attacks – Nuremberg (Bavaria)(1999) and Köln (Cologne) (North Rhine-Westphalia) (2001 / 2004) and 15 robberies. 

The focus of Auf dem Nichts is on a woman who loses her German-Kurdish husband and son in a bomb attack. 

When the right-wing extremist pair of perpetrators is acquitted by the court due to a lack of evidence, she looks for the perpetrators in order to take vigilante justice.

In preparation for this film, Akin drove to München (Munich) three times to follow the trial of Beate Zschäpe. 

Above: Beate Zschäpe

Dealing with the victims of the right-wing extremist terror group at the trials was the trigger for him to make the film.

Akin had also inherited the dialogues in court, the silence of the prosecutor, and the indifferent coldness of the accused. 

Akin says:

The scandal was not that German neo-Nazis had killed ten people. 

The real scandal was that the German police, society and the media were all convinced that the perpetrators must be Turks or Kurds, that some mafia was behind it.

Regarding the inner conflict of his protagonist Katja, Akin says:

There is a state judiciary and there is an individual sense of justice. 

And sometimes the two clash. 

The film is also about this clash.” )

Above: German filmmaker Fatih Akin

This list of Münsterlingen personalities is, of course, not complete.

Above: Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 20 November 2022

It is with a sense of irony that I write about Aus dem Nichts:

On Sunday 13 November 2022, an explosion occurred on Istiklal Avenue (an 1.4 kilometre / 0.87 mile pedestrian street and one of the most famous avenues in Istanbul) in the Beyoğlu district – a district on the European side of Istanbul, separated from the old city by the Golden Horn of Istanbul (a major urban waterway and the primary inlet of the Bosphorus) – at 1620 hours local time.

Six people were killed and 81 others were injured.

The city had already been targeted by terrorist attacks in 2015 and 2016 by the Islamic State (Daesh) and militants associated with the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK).

A Daesh suicide bombing in the same area killed four people in 2016.

Above: Flag of the Islamic State

No group has claimed responsibility, but Turkish authorities suspect Kurdish separatists to be behind the attack, notably the PKK and the Syrian Kurdish Democratic Union Party (PYD).

Above: Flag of the PKK

The PKK disclaimed any responsibility.

Above: Logo of the PYD

Turkiye’s Interior Minister, Suleyman Soylu, announced the arrest of the bomber and 46 others.

Above: Süleyman Soylu, Turkish Minister of the Interior

Istiklal Avenue is a popular tourist area and one of the main roads leading to Taksim Square. 

Above: Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul, Turkey

The bomb went off in front of a shopping store.

At the time of the blast, the area was more crowded than normal, as a football club was to play nearby.

Above: Turkish police and explosives experts work the scene of the explosion.

According to Turkish news portal Oda TV, the explosion was caused by an improvised explosive device containing TNT.

 

The blast caused windows to break and images circulating on social media showed people bleeding. 

Firefighters and ambulances rushed to the scene. 

The police set up a perimeter around the scene around the bombing site and banned people from coming to İstiklal Avenue and Taksim Square.

Above: Police officers secure the area after the explosion.

Istanbul’s Chief Public Prosecutors Office quickly opened an investigation after the attack.

At least eight prosecutors have been assigned to the case. 

Justice Minister Bekir Bozdağ said a woman was filmed sitting on a bench for about 40 minutes and that she left shortly before the blast.

Above: Bekir Bozdağ, Turkish Justice Minister

President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan condemned the attack.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

The Governor of Istanbul Ali Yurlikaya reported that he was convinced that it was a terrorist attack.

Above: Ali Yerikaya, Governor of Istanbul

The next day, the Minister of the Interior Süleyman Soylu formally accused the PKK of being behind the attack and announced the arrests of the bomber and 21 others.

Soylu argued that the attack was carried out by the PKK in retaliation for the Turkish invasion of northeastern Syria and criticized the US for its support of the Kurdish People’s Defense Units (YPG) in northeastern Syria.

He had previously blamed the US for an armed attack against a police station in southern Turkey in September and had said that the US had funded the Syrian Kurdish Democratic Union Party (PYD) up to $2 billion since 2019.

Above: Flag of Syria

After the main suspect in the attack, Ahlam Albashir, a Syrian national, was arrested, the Turkish police claimed that she confirmed her affiliation with PKK and YPG, and that she had been trained by them as a special intelligence officer in Syria, entering Turkey through Afrin (northern Syria).

Ahlam Albashir has been working at a textile workshop with several female workers.

Some of them were also detained. 

It was reported that two human traffickers who are suspected to have been trying to bring the suspect to Bulgaria were also detained.

Above: Ahlam Albashir

Jiyan Tosun, a lawyer and member of the Human Rights Association, was accused by Adem Taşkaya, a politician of the far-right Victory Party, of having planted the bomb by order of the PKK.

Above: Logo of the Turkish Human Rights Association (İnsan Hakları Derneği)

Above: Adem Taşkaya

Above: Logo of the Victory Party

Following this she was threatened repeatedly and preferred to stay at a courthouse instead of returning home.

Above: Jiyan Tosun

Around an hour after the explosion took place, a broadcast ban was issued by the Istanbul Criminal Court for all visual and audio news and social networking sites related to the incident.

Only interviews with government officials are allowed to be reported.

Above: Palace of Justice, Istanbul, Turkey

CNN Türk and TRT then stopped reporting on the incident.

Above: Logo of the Turkish Radio and Television Corporation

Internet feeds throughout Turkey and access to social media platforms, such as Twitter, Instagram and YouTube, have been significantly decreased since the event.

Istanbul’s anti-terrorist office decided to suspend the rights of defense of suspects but also of Internet users who have shared “negative information” about the attack on social networks.

Above: Logo of US social media network Twitter

Ekrem İmamoğlu, the Mayor of Istanbul, inspected the bombing site.

Above: Mayor of Istanbul Ekrem İmamoğlu

Ekrem İmamoğlu is a Turkish businessman, building contractor and centre-left politician serving as the 32nd Mayor of Istanbul.

He was first elected with 4.1 million votes and won with a margin of 13,000 votes against his Justice and Development Party (AKP) opponent in the March 2019 mayoral election as the joint Nation Alliance candidate of the Republican People’s Party (CHP) and the IYI (Good) Party, but served only from 17 April until 6 May 2019, when the election was annulled.

He was then reelected in a renewed election on 23 June 2019 by an even larger margin of 800,000 votes.

He had previously been the Mayor of Beylikdüzü, a western district of Istanbul, between 2014 and 2019.

İmamoğlu emerged as a dark horse candidate to be the Nation Alliance’s joint candidate for Istanbul Mayor, overtaking more prominent contenders, such as Muharrem Ince, the CHP’s 2018 presidential candidate.

On the eve of the elections, İmamoğlu gained a narrow lead in the mayoral race, with initial results showing his lead to be around 23,000 votes.

His lead was eventually cut to 13,729 after a series of recounts backed by the government.

İmamoğlu was sworn in as Mayor of Istanbul on 17 April, following the conclusion of all recounts.

On 6 May 2019, the Supreme Electoral Council convened and voted to annul the results of the mayoral election.

Members of the Council accepted the AKP’s objection to the local election results in Istanbul, with seven members of the High Court voting in favour of calling a new election and four against.

The election board also cancelled İmamoğlu’s mayoral certificate until the renewed elections.

A new election took place on 23 June 2019 in which İmamoğlu was re-elected as the Mayor by a margin of approximately 800,000 votes.

He was sworn into office on 27 June 2019.

Because of the scale of his victory and popularity, he has been called a possible candidate for the Turkish presidency in the next elections.

Above: Istanbul, Turkey

Health Minister Fahrettin Koca said the victims were being treated in the hospitals nearby.

Above: Fahrettin Koca, Turkish Health Minister

Many political leaders expressed their condolences to the media, also setting forth that the event was a case of terrorism. 

Above: People hug at the scene of the explosion.

President Erdoğan released a statement, stating:

After the treacherous attack, our members of the police went to the scene, and our wounded were sent to the surrounding hospitals.

Efforts to take over Turkey and the Turkish nation through terrorism will reach their goal neither today nor in the future, the same way they failed yesterday.

Above: Flag of the President of Turkey –

The 16 stars represent 16 claimed historical Turkic empires.

It was designed in 1922 and adopted in 1925.

The leader of the Republican People’s Party (CHP) (Cumhuriyet Halk Partisi) Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu said immediately after the attack :

We must unite against all forms of terrorism.

We must raise a common voice against all forms of terrorism and we must condemn terrorism.

No matter where the terror comes from, whatever its source, 85 million people living in this country must be saying the same thing.

They must curse terrorism, those who commit it and those who support it.

When we do this, we will have a unity of heart, it will be better for us to embrace each other.

Above: Logo of the Cumhuriyet Halk Partisi

Above: Kemal Kılıçdaroğlu

The chairwoman of the Good Party (İYİ) Meral Akşener condemned the attack, stating:

“I strongly condemn this vile attack.

We would like those responsible to be caught as soon as possible.”

Above: Logo of the Good Party

Above: Meral Akşener

The Kurdish People’s Democratic Party (HDP) (Halkların Demokratik Partisi) expressed its “deep sorrow and grief over the explosion that has killed six of our fellow citizens and injured 81 others“, adding that:

Our grief and sorrow is great.

We wish God’s mercy to the citizens who lost their lives.”

The attack was also condemned by the imprisoned former chairman of the HDP Selahattin Demirtas.

Above: Logo of the People’s Democratic Party (Halkların Demokratik Partisi)

Above: Selahattin Demirtaş

(Demirtaş was the presidential candidate of the HDP in the 2014 presidential election, coming in 3rd place.

He led the HDP to gather 13.1% at the June 2015 parliamentary elections and 10.7% in the snap elections in November 2015, coming 4th in each election.

He has been imprisoned since 4 November 2016 and despite his imprisonment the HDP fielded Demirtaş as its candidate for the 2018 presidential elections, running his campaign from prison.

In a judgement given in December 2020, the European Court for Human Rights judged that, given “the timing of Demirtaş continued detention (coinciding with an important constitutional referendum and the presidential election)” and Turkey’s “systemic trend of “gagging” dissenting voices“, Demirtaş’s continued pre-trial detention’s political purpose had been “predominant“.

The criminal indictment against Demirtaş alleged that in a public statement on the 6 October, the HDP raised support for protests against claimed approach of the Turkish Government shows towards the Islamic State (IS) 13 September 2014 attack on Kobane (northern Syria).

Above: Kobani, Syria

The HDP was blamed for the Kobani protests (large-scale rallies by pro-YPG protestors in Turkey) in 2014, which resulted in the death of over 50 people despite the HDP having called for an investigation on the events leading to the deaths in Parliament, which was turned down by the incumbent Justice and Development Party (AKP) and the Nationalist Movement Party (MHP).

Above: Logo of the Justice and Development Party (Adalet ve Kalkınma Partisi)

Above: Logo of the Nationalist Movement Party (Milliyetçi Hareket Partisi)

President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan blamed Demirtaş for provoking protests, and said that all Kurdish people are the citizens of the Republic of Turkey and no one can attempt to build a state for them.

Demirtaş’s repeatedly stated opposition to both PKK and TSK violence, calling killed Turkish soldiers “the children of this country, our children“, and declaring:

No one has anything to win from a civil war in Turkey.

Just look at Syria and Iraq.” 

Above: Military situation in September 2021

(pink) Syrian Arab Republic / (orange) Syrian Arab Republic and Rojava / (yellow) Rojava / (green) Syrian Interim Government and Turkish occupation / (white) Syrian Salvation Government / (blue) Revolutionary Commando Army and American occupation / (purple) Opposition groups in reconciliation / (grey) Islamic State

Above: Flag of Iraq

Demirtaş’ prosecution also used wiretaps as evidence to show relation with the Democratic Society Congress (DTK), which the prosecution views as a part of the PKK.

Above: Logo of the Democratic Society Congress (Demokratik Toplum Kongresi / Kongreya Civaka Demokratîk)

Since 4 November 2016 he is detained in prison in Edirne, a Turkish border town near Greece and Bulgaria, far away from Diyarbakir in southeastern Turkey, where his family lives.

His wife visits him once a week.

Above: Selimiye Mosque and statue of its architect Mimar Koca Sinan, Edirne, Turkey

His cellmate was for years fellow HDP politician Abdullah Zeydan who was released in January 2022.

Above: Abdullah Zeydan

In March 2022, the arrested mayor of Diyarbakir Adnan Selçuk Mızraklı became his new cellmate.)

Above: Adnan Selçuk Mizrakli

The Turkish Football Federation (TFF) announced that the Süper Lig match at Vodafone Park between Beşiktaş and Antalyaspor was postponed due to the bombing.

Several football clubs offered their condolences.

Above: Turkish Football Federation crest

Above: Vodafone Park, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, Turkey

Above: Beşiktaş logo

A suspect is in custody related to an explosion that killed at least six people and injured at least 81 others in Istanbul on Sunday, Turkey’s Interior Ministry said early Monday.

Above: Members of a forensic team work at the bomb site.

The incident has been deemed a terrorist attack, Turkish Vice President Fuat Oktay said, according to state news agency Anadolu.

We consider it to be a terrorist act as a result of an attacker, whom we consider to be a woman, detonating the bomb.”, Oktay told reporters.

Above: Turkish Vice-President Fuat Oktay

Turkish officials believe Kurdish separatists from the Kurdistan Worker’s Party (PKK) and the Democratic Union Party (PYD) were most likely behind the deadly suspected bomb attack, the country’s Interior Minister, Suleyman Soylu, told reporters Monday.

It is PKK/PYD terrorist organization according to our preliminary findings.”, Soylu said in a press conference at the scene of Sunday’s attack on Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul.

Soylu did not elaborate or provide details of how investigators had reached this conclusion.

A little while ago the person who left the bomb was taken under custody by teams of Istanbul Police Department.

Before their arrest 21 more people were also taken under custody,” the Minister said.

The face of terrorism is bitter, but we will continue this struggle to the end, whatever the cost is.

Above: Turkish Interior Minister Suleyman Soylu

CCTV footage shows a woman sitting on a bench for more than 40 minutes and then getting up one or two minutes before the explosion, leaving a bag or plastic bag behind, according to Turkish Justice Minister Bekir Bozdağ.

Above: Turkish Justice Minister Bekir Bozdağ

Bozdağ, who made the comments in an interview with privately owned A Haber news channel, said Turkish security forces believe the woman is the suspect.

Officials are investigating her.

There are two possibilities.

Either that bag or plastic bag has a mechanism in it, it explodes on its own or someone detonates it from afar.

All of these are currently under investigation.” he added.

The name of the woman is unknown.”, he said.

All the recordings and data about the woman are being analyzed.

Istanbul Governor Ali Yerlikaya said.

We wish God’s mercy on those who lost their lives and a speedy recovery to the injured.”

Above: Istanbul provincial governor Ali Yerikaya

The six people killed include Yusuf Meydan, a member of Turkey’s Ministry of Family and Social Services, and his daughter Ecrin, according to Derya Yanık, the Minister of the agency.

Above: Yusuf Meydan and daughter Ecran

Soylu, the Interior Minister, said Monday that 50 of the 81 people injured have been discharged from the hospital, with 31 people still being treated.

Turkey’s conflict with Kurdish separatist groups has spanned four decades and claimed tens of thousands of lives.

The PKK has been designated a terrorist organization by Turkey, the United States and the European Union.

Above: Flag of Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK)

In particular, the insincerity of our so-called allies who seem friendly to us, who either hide terrorists in their own country, or feeds terrorists in the areas they occupy and send them money from their own senates, is obvious.”, Soylu said.

We will give them a response in the near future, to those who caused us this pain in Beyoglu Istiklal Street so they experience more and more pain.”, Soylu said.

 

Witness Tariq Keblaoui said he was shopping on Istiklal Street when the explosion happened about 10 meters (32.8 feet) ahead of him.

People were scattering immediately.”, said Keblaoui, a Lebanese-based journalist who was on his last day of vacation in the city.

Very shortly after, I could see how many injured were on the ground.”, Keblaoui told CNN.

He says he saw dead bodies and victims who were seriously injured.

There was a man in the store bleeding from his ears and his legs, and his friends were crying near him.”, Keblaoui said.

Istiklal Street was packed with visitors when the blast happened Sunday afternoon, he said.

It went very quickly from a very peaceful Sunday with a very crowded street full of tourists to being what looked like the aftermath of a war zone.”, Keblaoui said.

Above: Tariq Keblaoui

News of the explosion led to a torrent of condolences from around the world.

Above: (in blue) Countries thanked by the Turkish President for expressing their condolences and support

French President Emmanuel Macron, whose own country suffered a deadly terror attack exactly seven years earlier, shared his sympathies for the Turkish people.

On this day so symbolic for our nation, while we think of the victims who fell on 13 November 2015, the Turkish people are struck by an attack in their heart, Istanbul.” Macron tweeted.

To the Turks:

We share your pain.

We stand with you in the fight against terrorism.”

Above: French President Emmanuel Macron

European Council President Charles Michel shared his condolences after Sunday’s deadly blast.

Horrific news from Istanbul tonight,” he said.

All our thoughts are with those currently responding and the people of Türkiye at this very distressing time.”

Above: European Council President Charles Michel

NATO Secretary General Jens Stoltenberg tweeted his “deepest condolences” to the Turkish people, adding that NATO “stands in solidarity with our ally” Turkey.

Above: NATO Secretary General Jens Stoltenberg

The United States “strongly condemns the act of violence that took place today in Istanbul.”, White House Press Secretary Karine Jean-Pierre said Sunday.

Our thoughts are with those who were injured and our deepest condolences go to those who lost loved ones.”

Above: White House Press Secretary Karine Jean-Pierre

The condolences offered by the US Embassy in Turkey were rejected by the Turkish Interior Minister Süleyman Soylu, who said in a televised interview on 14 November 2022 that:

We do not accept the condolences of the US Ambassador.

We reject them.”

Above: Jeffry L. Flake, United States Ambassador to Turkey

Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky tweeted of his “deep sadness” at the news of the blast.

I offer my condolences to the families of those who lost their lives and wish a speedy recovery to the injured.”, Zelensky said.

The pain of the friendly Turkish people is our pain.

Above: President of Ukraine Volodymyr Zelenskyy

A day after the incident the avenue was decorated with 1,200 Turkish flags as a way of remembering the victims of the bombing.

Most tree benches on İstiklal Avenue were removed.

Above: Memorial point after the 13 November 2022 bombing

No group has claimed responsibility, but Turkish authorities announced that Kurdish separatists were behind the attack implicating the PKK and the Syrian Kurdish Democratic Union Party (PYD).

Turkey’s Interior Minister, Süleyman Soylu, announced the arrest of the bomber and 46 others. 

Above: Captain Louis Renault (Claude Rains) tells his officer to “Round up the usual suspects.” as Rick Blaine (Humphrey Bogart), Ilsa Lund (Ingrid Bergman) and Victor Laszlo (Paul Henreid) look on. – Casablanca (1942)

Turkey’s PKK denied any role in the attack, as did the Syrian Democratic Forces (SDF), which accused the Turkish government of creating a pretext for a new ground attack on Syria.

Above: Flag of the Syrian Democratic Forces

During the late 20th and early 21st century, Islamist terrorist groups including al-Qaeda and ISIS carried out many attacks in Istanbul. 

Above: Flag of Al-Qaeda

Kurdish nationalist terrorist groups – including the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK) and the Kurdistan Freedom Hawks (TAK) – did likewise.

Above: Flag of the Kurdistan Freedom Hawks

Islamic State carried out a series of attacks during the mid-2010s.

On 11 May 2013, two car bombs exploded in the town of Reyhanli, Hatay Province, Turkey, close to the busiest land border post (Bab al-Hawa border crossing) with Syria.

51 people were killed and 140 injured in the attack, the deadliest single act of terrorism to occur on Turkish soil up until then — to be surpassed by the 10 October 2015 Ankara bombings with 102 deaths.

The responsibility for the attack is as yet unclear:

Politicians, authorities and the media have named at least six possibilities. 

Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant (ISIL) as late as September 2013, at the occasion of a threat to the Turkish government, suddenly claimed the 11 May 2013 attack.

In response to the attacks, the Turkish government sent air and ground forces to increase the already heavy military presence in the area.

Above: Reyhanli, Hatay Province, Turkey

Around 30 September 2013, according to English-language newspaper/website Today’s Zaman (2007 – 2016):

A statement attributed to ISIL” threatened Turkey with a series of suicide attacks in Istanbul and Ankara unless Turkey would reopen its Syrian border crossings at Bab al-Hawa and Bab al-Salameh before 7 October.

On 20 March 2014, three foreigners emerging from a taxi opened fire with an AK-47 and lobbed a hand grenade, killing a soldier and a policeman who were conducting routine checks on the Ulukisla–Adana Expressway, and injuring four soldiers.

The attackers were wounded in return fire but got away.

Two of the attackers were apprehended at Eminlik village, where villagers, thinking they were wounded Syrians, took them to the local medical clinic.

Kosovan officials confirmed that the attackers were linked to al-Qaeda.

Some Turkish media preferred the scenario that they were from ISIL.

Above: Eminlik, Tarsus District, Mersin Province, Turkey

On 6 January 2015, a bomb is detonated in Istanbul’s Sultanahmet Square.

One police officer was killed, another officer was injured.

Above: Obelisk of Theodosius, Sultanahmet Square, Istanbul, Turkey

After ISIL, in March 2014, had threatened to attack the tomb of Suleyman Shah (1166 – 1227), the grandfather of Osman I (1254 – 1299), the founder of the Ottoman Empire.

The tomb was located in northern Syria.

Above: Qal’at Ja’bar Castle in Syria, as it is surrounded since 1973 by the waters of Lake Assad.

Previously, this was a fortified hilltop overlooking the Euphrates Valley.

According to legend, Suleyman Shah in 1236 drowned in the Euphrates near this castle and was buried by it.

With the creation of this lake in 1973 the tomb was relocated, 85 km (53 mi) northward on the Euphrates River, 27 km (17 miles) from the Turkish border.

On 21 February 2015, Turkey decided to evacuate the tomb site, with a military convoy of hundred armored vehicles and 570 troops, and removing it, some 27 km northward, still in Syria, but now only 200 meters from the Turkish border.

Above: View of the building complex of the Tomb of Suleyman Shah (its second location, 1973 – February 2015), seen from the Euphrates River

On 5 June 2015, just 48 hours before the June 2015 General Election, two separate bombs exploded at an electoral rally in Diyarbakır held by the pro-Kurdish Peoples’ Democratic Party (HDP).

Above: Diyarbakir, Diyarbakir Province, Turkey

Four were killed and dozens were injured.

Suspicions as for the perpetrators lie on ISIL and on some ISIL-linked terrorist cell named the ‘Dokumacilar‘ (Weavers).

Above: Lisa Calan, a Kurdish film director who lost both her legs in the bombing

On 20 July 2015, the municipal cultural center in Suruç in the southeastern province of Sanliurfa was bombed. 34 people, mostly university-aged students planning to reconstruct the Syrian border town of Kobani, were killed and more than 100 people were injured.

ISIL claimed the attack a couple of days later.

According to journalist Serkan Demirtas, this attack could be considered as a declaration of war by ISIL on Turkey.

Above: After the Suruç bombing, forensic science experts in scene of crime, Suruç, Şanlıurfa Province, Turkey

The Ceylanpınar incident (22 – 24 July 2015) saw the killing of two policemen in Ceylanpinar, Turkey, which led to the resumption of the Kurdish – Turkish conflict.

The attack was used by the AKP government as a casus belli to end the otherwise largely successful 2013 – 2015 solution process and resume its war against the PKK.

As the AKP had failed to win a majority in the June 2015 Turkish General Election the month before, and soon after the resumption of hostilities announced the November 2015 Turkish snap general election, analysts believe that the Ceylanpınar killings and return to war have been used to increase Turkish nationalist fervor and favoured the ruling party taking back control over the Turkish Parliament.

Other motives have also been advanced, with the Syrian War encouraging extremist parties from both sides to undermine peace efforts by increasing nationalism and readiness for war.

Above: Ceylanpinar, Şanlıurfa Province, Turkey

On 23 July 2015 at 13:30, five gunmen, identified by the Turkish military as ISIL fighters, attacked a Turkish border outpost in the border town of Elbeyli, Kilis Province, killing Turkish soldier Yalçın Nane and wounding five.

In reaction, Turkish forces pursued the militants into Syria,

Turkish tanks and artillery shelled ISIL militants in northern Syria, killing at least one militant and obliterating a number of ISIL vehicles.

Turkish tanks also bombarded a small (abandoned) Syrian village north of Azaz, Aleppo, in which the ISIL militants were thought to be taking refuge, and killed or wounded several of the ISIL militants who were trying to take cover there.

Around 7 pm on 23 July, reports stated that 100 ISIL militants had been killed, but those reports were criticized by anti-government newspapers.

The Turkish Armed Forces later stated that all five ISIL militants who had attacked the Turkish army in Elbeyli had been killed.

Above: Seal of the Turkish Armed Forces

On 10 October 2015 at 10:04, in Ankara, the capital city of Turkey, two bombs were detonated outside Ankara Central Railway Station.

With a death toll of 109 civilians, the attack surpassed the 2013 Reyhanli bombings as the deadliest terror attack in Turkish history.

Another 500 people were injured.

Above: “Democracy” memorial in front of Ankara Central Railway Station

Censorship monitoring group Turkey Blocks identified nationwide slowing of social media services in the aftermath of the blasts, described by rights group Human Rights Watch as an “extrajudicial” measure to restrict independent media coverage of the incident.

The bombs appeared to target a “Labour, Peace and Democracy” rally organised by the Confederation of Progressive Trade Unions of Turkey (DİSK), the Union of Chambers of Turkish Engineers and Architects (TMMOB), the Peoples’ Democratic Party (HDP), the Turkish Medical Association (TTB) and the Confederation of Public Workers’ Unions (KESK).

Above: Logo of DİSK, the confederation of revolutionary workers’ unions (Devrimci İşçi Sendikaları Konfederasyonu)

Above: Logo of the Union of Chambers of Turkish Engineers and Architects

Above: Logo of the Confederation of Public Employees’ Unions (Kamu Emekçileri Sendikaları Konfederasyonu)

The peace march was held to protest against the growing conflict between the Turkish Armed Forces and the PKK.

The incident occurred 21 days before the scheduled 1 November General Election.

The governing AKP, the main opposition CHP and the opposition MHP condemned the attack and called it an attempt to cause division within Turkey.

CHP and MHP leaders heavily criticized the government for the security failure, whereas HDP directly blamed the AKP government for the bombings.

Various political parties ended up cancelling their election campaigns while three days of national mourning were declared by Prime Minister Ahmet Davutoğlu.

Above: Ahmet Davutoğlu (Turkish Prime Minister: 2014 – 2016)

No organization has ever claimed responsibility for the attack.

The Ankara Attorney General stated that they were investigating the possibility of two cases of suicide bombings.

On 19 October, one of the two suicide bombers was officially identified as the younger brother of the perpetrator of the Suruç bombing.

Both brothers had suspected links to ISIL and the ISIL-affiliated Dokumacilar group.

Above: 2015 Ankara bombing: Victims’ names

On 8 January 2016, Turkish forces at Iraq’s Bashiq camp killed 17 ISIL militants when the group attacked the camp with rocket fire and assault rifles .

This was the third attack by ISIL on the Turkish base.

Turkey has been training an armed anti-ISIL Sunni group in the camp.

Above: Bashiqa, Iraq

On 12 January 2016, an ISIL suicide bomber committed the Istanbul bombings in Istanbul’s historic Sultanahmet Square, killing 12 people.

All of the victims killed were foreign citizens (11 Germans, 1 Peruvian).

In response to the bombing, the Turkish Army commenced tank and artillery strikes on ISIL positions in Syria and Iraq.

Turkish authorities estimate that these 48 hours of shelling killed nearly 200 ISIL fighters.

Above: Flowers and flags of Turkey and Germany near Obelisk of Theodosius, Istanbul, Turkey, January 2016

On 19 March 2016, a second ISIL suicide bombing took place in Istanbul’s Beyoğlu district.

The attack killed four and wounded 36 people.

On 22 March 2016, the Turkish Interior Minister said that the bomber had links with ISIL.

Above: Demirören Shopping Mall in Istiklal Avenue, Beyoğlu, İstanbul, near which the bombing took place

Since the 2016 Turkish coup attempt and the purges that followed, political discourse, media, public speech as well as academic and judiciary voices are heavily monitored, with nearly no possible opposition to governmental discourse.

On 15 July 2016, a faction within the Turkish Armed Forces, organized as the Peace at Home Council, attempted a coup d’état against state institutions, including the government and President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan. 

They attempted to seize control of several places in Ankara, Istanbul, Marmaris and elsewhere, such as the Asian side entrance of the Bosphorus Bridge, but failed to do so after forces loyal to the state defeated them.

Above: 15 July Martyrs’ Monument at the Presidential Complex, Ankara, Turkey

The Council cited an erosion of secularism, elimination of democratic rule, disregard for human rights, and Turkey’s loss of credibility in the international arena as reasons for the coup.

The government said the coup leaders were linked to the Gülen movement, which is designated as a terrorist organization by the Republic of Turkey and led by Fethullah Gülen, a Turkish businessman and scholar who lives in Pennsylvania.

The Turkish government alleged that Gülen was behind the coup (which Gülen denied) and that the US was harboring him.

Above: Fethullah Gülen condemned the coup attempt and denied any role in it.

The Gülen movement (Gülen hareketi), referred to by its participants as Hizmet (“service“) or Cemaat (“community“) and since 2016 by the Government of Turkey as FETÖ (“Fethullah Terrorist Organization“/ Fethullahçı Terör Örgütü), is an Islamist fraternal fmovement led by Fethullah Gülen, a Muslim preacher who has lived in the US since 1999.

The movement is designated as a terrorist organization by Turkey, Pakistan, Northern Cyprus and the Gulf Cooperation Council.

However, the Gülen movement is not recognized as a terrorist organization by the EU, the US, the UK, Finland and Sweden.

Owing to the outlawed status of the Gülen movement in Turkey, some observers refer to the movement’s volunteers who are Turkish Muslims as effectively a subsect of Sunni Islam.

A US-based umbrella foundation which is affiliated with the movement is the Alliance for Shared Values.

The movement has attracted supporters and drawn the attention of critics in Turkey, Central Asia, and other parts of the world.

It is active in education and operates private schools and universities in over 180 countries.

It has initiated forums for interfaith dialogue.

It has substantial investments in media, finance and health clinics.

Despite its teachings which are stated conservative in Turkey, some have praised the movement as a pacifist, modern-oriented version of Islam, and an alternative to more extreme schools of Islam.

But it has also been reported of having a “cultish hierarchy” and of being a secretive Islamic sect.

The Gülen movement is a former ally of the AKP.

When the AKP came to power  in 2002 the two formed, despite their differences, a tactical alliance against military tutelage and the Turkish secular elite.

It was through this alliance that the AKP had accomplished an unprecedented feat in Turkish republican history by securing national electoral victories sufficient to form three consecutive majority governments in 2002, 2007 and 2011.

The Gülen movement gained influence on the Turkish police force and the judiciary during its alliance with conservative President Erdoğan, which saw hundreds of Gülen supporters appointed to positions within the Turkish government.

With only slight exaggeration, the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) as well as the government it has led could be termed a coalition of religious orders.

The Gülen movement stayed away from electoral politics, focusing instead on increasing its presence in the state bureaucracy.

The Hizmet movement’s stated success in this regard would initially make it Erdoğan’s main partner, but also his eventual nemesis.

Once the old establishment was defeated, disagreements emerged between the AKP and the Gülen movement.

The first breaking point was the MIT Crisis of February 2012, it was also interpreted as a power struggle between pro-Gülen police and judiciary and the AKP.

Above: Seal of the Turkish National Intelligence Organization

In March 2011, seven Turkish journalists were arrested, including Amet Şık, who had been writing a book, Imamin Ordusu (The Imam’s Army), which states that the Gülen movement has infiltrated the country’s security forces (including the MIT).

As Şık was taken into police custody, he shouted:

Whoever touches the movement gets burned!

Upon his arrest, drafts of the book were confiscated and its possession was banned.

In a reply, Abdullah Bozkurt, from the Gülen movement newspaper Today’s Zaman, said Ahmet Şık was not being an investigative journalist conducting “independent research“, but was hatching “a plot designed and put into action by the terrorist network itself“.

After the 2013 corruption investigations in Turkey into stated corrupt practices by several bureaucrats, ministers, mayors, and family members of the ruling AKP of Turkey was uncovered, President Erdoğan blamed the movement for initiating the investigations as a result of a break in previously friendly relations.

The 2013 corruption scandal in Turkey (or the 17-25 December Corruption and Bribery Operation) was a criminal investigation that involved several key people in the Turkish government.

All of the 52 people detained on 17 December were connected in various ways with the ruling AKP.

Prosecutors accused 14 people – including Suleyman Aslan (the director of state-owned Halkbank), Iranian businessman Reza Zarrab, and several family members of cabinet ministers – of bribery, corruption, fraud, money laundering and gold smuggling.

A

t the heart of the scandal was an alleged “gas for gold” scheme with Iran involving Aslan, who had US$4.5 million in cash stored in shoeboxes in his home, and Zarrab, who was involved in about US$9.6 billion of gold trading in 2012.

Both men were arrested.

The scheme started after Turkish government officials found a loophole in the US sanctions against Iran that allowed them to access Iranian oil and gas.

The Turks exported some US$13 billion of gold to Iran directly, or through the United Arab Emirates (UAE), between March 2012 and July 2013.

Above: Flag of the UAE

In return, the Turks received Iranian natural gas and oil.

The transactions were carried out through the Turkish state-owned bank, Halkbank.

In January 2013, the Obama administration decided to close this loophole but instead of immediately charging Halkbank, the US government allowed its gold trading activities to continue until July 2013, because Turkey was an important ally regarding the American-led intervention in the Syrian Civil War and the US had been working on a nuclear deal with Iran.

Above: Flag of Iran

President Erdoğan said Gülen attempted to overthrow the Turkish government through a judicial coup by the use of corruption investigations and seized the group-owned newspaper (Zaman (“time“) — one of the most circulated newspapers in Turkey before the seizure) and several companies that have ties with the group.

Events surrounding the coup attempt and the purges in its aftermath reflect a complex power struggle between Islamist elites in Turkey.

During the coup attempt, over 300 people were killed and more than 2,100 were injured.

Many government buildings, including the Turkish Parliament and the Presidential Palace, were bombed from the air. 

Mass arrests followed, with at least 40,000 detained, including at least 10,000 soldiers and, for reasons that remain unclear, 2,745 judges. 

15,000 education staff were also suspended and the licenses of 21,000 teachers working at private institutions were revoked after the government stated they were loyal to Gülen.

More than 77,000 people have been arrested and over 160,000 fired from their jobs, on reports of connections to Gülen.

In March 2017, Germany’s intelligence chief said Germany was unconvinced by Erdoğan’s statement that Gülen was behind the failed coup attempt.

The same month, the British Parliament’s Foreign Affairs Select Committee said some Gulenists were involved in the coup d’état attempt but found no hard evidence that Fethullah Gülen masterminded the failed coup and found no evidence to justify the UK designating the Gülen movement as aterrorist organization“.

Above: Citizens protesting the coup attempt in Kizilay Square, Ankara, Turkey

Turkey is heading toward its 2023 Turkish General Election, which is expected to be a major challenge for the AKP party due to economic slow down and very high inflation.

In the past decade, Erdoğan and the AKP government used anti-PKK, security, martial rhetoric and external operations to raise Turkish nationalist votes before elections.

In between, security concerns and anti-terrorism laws have been used to repress and neutralize elected oppositions.

Opposition HDP elected officials are systematically probed, arrested, dismissed based on tenuous accusations, to be then replaced by AKP loyalists.

Accusation by association due to alliances with HDP party officials (and implied links to PKK terrorism) is also used against other opposition leaders. 

CHP Mayor of Istanbul Ekrem İmamoğlu is indicted for such political alliance, with persecutors calling to evict him from politics and the 2023 Turkish General Election.

The votes of the persecuted HDP party, a pro-Kurdish party accused by Erdoğan and the AKP to be linked with the PKK, are necessary to any opposition bloc wanting to conquer power.

More recently, and since May 2022, Recep Tayyip Erdoğan and his government have called for new external ground operations toward autonomous territories in Syria and ramped up attacks on the area.

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Turkish voters need to look first at what the candidates have achieved and only then at what the candidates have promised.

Turkish people are avid media consumers, but democracy only works when it is accompanied by a free press, which is far harder than simply reporting the news allowed by the government and slanting its message in favour of the government.

Turkey needs investigative journalism which uncovers facts and wrongdoing without fear of being labelled traitorous or arrested for voicing criticism of the government.

Turkey needs explanatory journalism that describes the bigger picture, providing background information and explanation.

Both investigative and explanatory journalism are difficult and expensive and demand skill on the part of both the news makers and the news readers.

Neither are well served by the current news formats or the current political climate.

If Turks were the last of the Ottoman ethnicities to get their own nation-states, the Kurds arrived at history’s party too late.

There are anywhere between 28 and 35 million Kurds, inhabiting a region that straddles Turkey, Iran, Iraq and Syria, with smaller populations elsewhere, including Armenia, Azerbaijan and Lebanon.

This geographic diversity suggests that Kurdish identity is shaped by a variety of competing forces and that ethnic solidarity with fellow Kurds across borders is often overshadowed by the concerns and politics in which Kurds actually find themselves.

In Turkey, Kurds form a majority in 15 provinces in the southeast and east of the country, with the metropolitan city of Diyarbakir being the unofficial capital of the Kurdish region.

There is also a large diaspora both in Western Europe and in coastal cities like Adana and Izmir.

Istanbul, on the diametrically opposite side of the country from Diyarbakir, is almost certainly the largest Kurdish city in the world in the way that New York City is home to the largest number of Jews.

The CIA Fact Book estimates that Kurds make up 18% of Turkey’s population.

Above: Flag of Kurdistan

It is fair to say that much of the rest of Turkey looks at Kurdish society through a glass darkly and sees Kurdish tribal organization as imposing primitive loyalties and archaic kinship relations.

More useful would be to think of tribes as alliances that negotiate with the political mainstream.

Likewise, radical Kurdish politics draws from inequalities within Kurdish society and not simply from the denial of Kurdish identity.

For all its claims to be a melting pot of civilization and a mosaic of different cultures, Turkey has been continually blindsided by the problem of accommodating its own ethnic diversity.

A principal reason lies in the foundation of the Turkish Republic and the perceived need to impose a new national identity on a war-stricken nation.

Above: Flag of Turkey

Kurds posed an obvious challenge.

First, because they formed a distinct and regionally concentrated linguistic group that was not Turkish, but also because they were overwhelmingly Muslim and therefore not an “anomalous minority” as defined by the Treaty of Lausanne.

Above: Palais de Rumine, Lausanne, Canton Vaud, Switzerland – where the Treaty of Lausanne was signed on 24 July 1923, delimiting the boundaries of Greece, Bulgaria and Turkey.

Though Kurds were readily recruited to fight the War of Independence, commanders of Kurdish irregulars felt betrayed by the very secular, highly centralized and very Turkish character of the new state.

Above: Images of the Turkish War of Independence (1919 – 1923)

There was a major uprising in 1925, which drew resentment against the abolition of the Caliphate (632 – 1924) as much as it did from a nascent Kurdish nationalism.

The caliphate system was abolished in Turkey in 1924 during the secularization of Turkey as part of Atatürk’s reforms.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881 – 1938)

That rebellion became reason and pretext to reinforce the authoritarian character of the regime in the rest of Turkey.

From the beginning of the Republic, the Kurdish issue, and specifically fear of Kurdish secession, has become inextricably linked to the problems of Turkish democratization and of the reliance on forms of repression to keep society under control.

Turkish officialdom has historically pursued a policy of assimilation, using both carrot and stick.

Above: (in orange) Kurdistan of Turkey

What lies at the heart of Turkey’s Kurdish problem?

Even to ask this question gets on some Turkish nerves.

A still widely-held view is that the Kurdish problem is simply one of terrorism or of troublemakers trying to scratch an itch where none exists.

The issue centers on the guerilla campaign conducted by the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK).

The conflict is estimated to have cost over 40,000 lives, including civilians, PKK members and Turkish soldiers.

The PKK was the product of a vicious process of natural selection after all other channels of dissent were eliminated.

The events of 9/11 in America created some sympathy for Turkey’s own longstanding fight with terrorism.

The harsh measures adopted by Western states to fight al-Qaeda appeared to confirm a long-cherished Turkish maxim:

National security requires the sacrifice of liberties.

Turkish concern about its own territorial integrity translates into a concern that its neighbours not set a dangerous example by allowing political autonomy for their own Kurdish populations.

Turks ask themselves why the US, so determined to fight terrorism, tolerates the existence of Kurdish bases.

There is a widely-held belief in Turkey that Western powers use Kurdish insurrection to keep Turkey weak.

These views persist despite an agreement under which the Pentagon makes real-time intelligence available to the Turkish military in order to track PKK fighters infiltrating into Turkey.

Washington also committed itself to providing Turkish forces with drones and other anti-insurgency hardware.

Turkish politicians often portray PKK attacks not as part of some intractable domestic problems but as “contracted” by outside powers.

At the same time they are only too aware that the Kurdish issue affects Turkish ambitions to play the role of a stabilizing power in the Middle East.

Peace at home, peace in the world” was Atatürk’s much-quoted mission statement of Turkish foreign policy.

That vision will flounder if Turkey cannot come to terms with a problem in its own backyard.

Above: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

Is there a Kurdish solution?

What do Kurds in Turkey want?

Full cultural rights?

A process of truth and reconcilation?

Devolution?

Simply the prospect of prosperity?

Hardened Turkish nationalists believe that any concession to Kurdish identity will lead to policial secession.

Having defined the fight with the PKK for so long as a struggle against separatism, they take for granted that separatism must be the enemy.

On the other hand, not even the PKK openly calls for an independent state.

They have declared its only ambition is to democratize Turkish society.

Did the PKK bomb Istanbul on Sunday?

They say they didn’t.

Is anyone surprised that they would nonetheless be blamed?

No one.

For the PKK is easy to blame, easy to hate, considering their past violence.

But could the PKK also be convenient for creating a perceived threat that only the powers-that-be can save us from?

Rahm Israel Emanuel is an American politician and diplomat who is the current US Ambassador to Japan.

A member of the Democratic Party, he previously served two terms as the 55th Mayor of Chicago (2011 – 2019) and the 23rd White House Chief of Staff (2009 – 2010), and served three terms in the US House of Representatives, representing Illinois (2003 – 2009).

Above: US Ambassador Rahm Emanuel

On his #ChiStories podcast of 19 October 2018, he tweeted:

“My guest on #ChiStories podcast is @BeschlossDC (Michael Beschloss), whose newest book is Presidents of War.

Go behind the phrase “Never let a crisis go to waste” as we dissect how US Presidents approached their role as Commander-in-Chief in times of war.”

According to Freakonomics blog (http://www.freakonomics.com) commentator TJ Hessmon:

“The “political” use of the phrase “Never let a good crisis go to waste.” is based upon the points made in Saul Alinsky’s Rules for Radicals, page 89, in the section marked “Communication“:

In the arena of action, a threat or a crisis becomes almost a precondition to communication.”

Taking advantage of any crisis whether real or manufactured is a common tool used by those waging war.

When used in this way, crisis, and its extreme amplification as “thinking and acting as a group“, is no longer a tactic of protest but instead a tactic of ideological subversion, which is used to bring about totalitarian government control, via Socialism or Communism.

In other words, the leader forms groups along the lines of a crisis and uses that crisis to force the need for control.

If the crisis is allowed to continue (as we observed often during the last presidential administration) people will cry out to government, for relief from the result of the crisis, which can lead to property destruction and even loss of life and limb.

The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) is one example of how crisis (terrorism) was used to create a police state at American airports, when it was known that there are other more effective tactics used by other nations to avoid airliner incidents.”

I am reminded of the thinking of Niccolò Machiavelli (1469 – 1527):

A prince is tolerated when his service is seen to be indispensable.

Above: Italian writer (The Prince) Niccolò Machiavelli

I am not suggesting that the incumbent administration in Turkey was in any way responsible for bombings and coups that have taken place during its term in office, but I wonder how useful tragedies, such as Sunday’s Istanbul explosion, prove to be to justify tightening its grip on power.

If the press is to be believed – Terrorism only works thanks to the media. – one woman with a plastic bag of explosives has changed Turkish society forever.

Terrorists’ true weapon is not the bomb, but the fear triggered by the bomb.

The actual threat is relatively small, but the perceived threat is immense.

This balancing act is made possible by the news media.

Since 2001, terrorists have killed on average 50 people per year within the European Union.

By comparison, 80,000 EU citizens die each year in traffic accidents and 60,000 by suicide.

Above: Flag of the European Union

The risk of being killed by a terrorist is astronomically smaller than the risk of being killed by your own hand.

Paradoxically, the news makes it seem like it is the other way around.

Above: Bad news“, Luci Gutiérrez, New Yorker cartoon, 16 July 2018

A terrorist’s primary goal is not to kill people.

Their goals are strategic:

They are seeking political change.

They want people to pay attention to their demands:

Attention they receive in the form of news and the ensuing backlash.

For political scientist Martha Crenshaw at Stanford University, terrorists are entirely rational actors:

Terrorism is a logical choice when the power ratio of government to challenger is high.

Above: Seal of Stanford University, Stanford, California, USA

In other words, terrorists themselves are powerless.

The only halfway promising method of forcing political change is to sow fear and chaos.

And for that they need the news media.

Israeli historian Yuval Noah Harari has remarked:

Terrorists are masters of mind control.

They kill very few people, but nevertheless manage to terrify billions and rattle huge political structures, such as the EU and the US.

The theatre of terror cannot succeed without publicity.

Unfortunately, the media all too often provide this publicity for free.

It obsessively reports terror attacks and greatly inflates their danger, because reports on terrorism sell newspapers much better than reports on diabetes or air pollution.

Above: Yuval Noah Harari

The press focuses on the fear a bomb creates, not on the lives the bomb devastates, nor does it provide a meaningful context as to why someone would commit such a horrific act.

We will never know who the dead were and we can only speculate as to who they might have become.

We will never learn of the lives affected by the loss of those who are now mere memories.

We will never learn of the extent of the injuries that those struck down by the explosion and how their lives, physically and/or psychologically, have been transformed forever.

But you can’t live in fear.

You can’t let fear of dying keep you from living.

What is the point of living if you don’t feel alive?

I will return to Istanbul.

I will walk down Istiklal Avenue and shop once again.

All the bomber showed me was their ability to kill.

Anyone can destroy.

What the world needs is those who can build.

Let us build bridges not walls.

Let us make love not war.

Nothing to fear but fear itself.

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945) (US President: 1933 – 1945)

Swiss author and philosopher Rolf Dobelli explains it this way:

Above: Rolf Dobelli

Gersau is a village in the middle of Switzerland, idyllically situated on Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Lucerne):

A tiny picturesque place with 2,000 inhabitants – smaller than the Municipality I spring from in Canada (Brownsburg-Chatham) and larger than the Swiss hamlet of Landschlacht from whence the journey to Mürren begins.

For centuries Gersau was an independent republic.

The village wanted no part in the Swiss Federation and for 300 years it was given free rein.

Only when Napoleon invaded Switzerland in 1798 was its independence revoked.

When the French troops withdrew, the village redeclared independence – but this only lasted four years.

Today, Gersau is part of Switzerland.

Above: Gersau, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

Let’s try a thought experiment.

Imagine you are a Gersau villager and you want to regain independence.

You feel obliged by the long historic tradition of independence.

Maybe you feel that you have been unjustly treated by the rest of Switzerland.

What options do you have to make people listen to your demands?

You could gather like-minded compatriots and pass a resolution at a community meeting.

But nobody would take you seriously.

Certainly not outside the village.

You could write a blog – which would never be read.

You could employ a PR firm, but that, too, would come to nothing.

Or you could set off a bomb outside Parliament in Bern.

With a giant placard in the background – Free Gersau! – you would capture national and international attention within minutes.

Of course, everybody would condemn your behaviour in the strongest terms, but….

You would spark a debate.

Above: Bundeshaus (Federal Palace of Switzerland), Bern, Switzerland

Now imagine the press did not exist.

What then?

The bomb explodes.

Windows shatter.

Passers-by are injured.

The attack is discussed at the market and down the pub.

Outside Bern, however, interest would fizzle.

Next day the square outside Parliament would look the same as before.

You would have accomplished nothing.

Above: Bern, Switzerland

It strikes me as curious that the PKK are held responsible and yet they themselves are reluctant to claim responsibility.

For if the point of a terrorist attack is to garner attention than the PKK denial suggests to me that they are a convenient scapegoat to justify increased control by the powers-that-be.

From what little has been revealed about the explosion – as evidenced by the massive number of people arrested after the incident – is that it is unclear to the investigation who the real perpetrators are or what their motive might be.

Perhaps it is as suggested by Alfred Pennyworth (Michael Caine) in the movie The Dark Knight:

Some people simply want to watch the world burn.

Or it may be that the generators underlying this event are simply beyond our ken, because the processes that shape cultural, intellectual, economic, military, political and environment events are too invisible, too complex, too non-linear, too hard for our brains to digest.

Who can truly comprehend another person’s individual mind and the path that led them to where they are today?

Who can truly comprehend the mind of someone who would deliberately kill innocents or allow innocents to be killed?

I certainly don’t claim to do so.

Perhaps living far from public notice makes us less vulnerable?

Maybe.

But it was the lives of ordinary people that were the victims of forces beyond their ken and of a mindset beyond anyone’s comprehension.

All that they were, all that they might have been, erased by a threat seemingly out of Nowhere.

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Wednesday 5 January 2022

Let us return to Landschlacht / Münsterlingen and consider something else.

Each town across the globe searches for something to brag about, something that lends to itself a sense of worth, a sense of accomplishment, a reason for pride.

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Consider Landschlacht.

What makes it special?

I have mentioned its lake location and its old chapel.

I have shown half-timbered buildings.

In a previous post, I mentioned how street lights are extinguished after midnight resulting in a light-pollution-free starry night sky.

Above: Rotes Haus Restaurant, Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Consider Münsterlingen.

What makes it special?

We may speak of its hospital and its psychiatric clinic, the Abbey and its ceremony of carrying a wooden head across the frozen Lake.

Above: Münsterlingen, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland

Consider Brownsburg-Chatham, where I spent my childhood.

What makes it special?

We may talk of its being settled by American Loyalists and named after English Prime Minister William Pitt, 1st Earl of Chatham (1708 – 1778) and English Major George Brown.

Above: William Pitt the Elder (Prime Minister of Great Britain: 1766 – 1768)

We may speak of its farms and its explosives production.

Above: Brownsburg, Argenteuil County, Québec, Canada

But beyond superficialities such as these:

What makes a place unique is its people.

Landschlacht, Brownsburg and – yes, to folks outside Turkey – Eskişehir.

Beyond the Canton of Thurgau no one knows (or cares) where Landschlacht is.

Beyond Argenteuil County a person would be hard pressed to tell where in Canada is Brownsburg.

Tourist guides rarely mention Eskişehir. – I had not heard of the place before I received a job offer to work here.

But what makes these Nowhere places in the middle of Somewhere Else special are its people.

Certainly the world notices a place’s personalities, those rare individuals that have managed to attract attention to themselves.

I have mentioned some of Münsterlingen’s personalities above.

I mention now that Brownsburg-Chatham’s claim to fame is that it was home to the late Montréal Canadiens ice hockey defenseman Gilles Lupien (1954 – 2021).

Above: Gilles Lupien

In previous posts I have spoken of Eskişehir being better known for its universities, its meerschaum pipes, and that it was the place where Turkey’s first automobile, first aviation industry and the first NATO tactical air force HQ in Turkey occurred, more than any personalities the world beyond Turkey might have ever heard of.

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Turkey

Yet Brownsburg, Landschlacht and Eskişehir – places few folks beyond their borders know – are important to me for the people I have known therein.

Brownsburg-Chatham and the neighbouring municipalities of Grenville and Lachute are populated with the memories of those I have known and loved from my childhood and youth.

Landschlacht is still the home of my wife, the love and bane of my existence.

Because of her, a piece of my heart remains there.

Eskişehir is where I now work and live and the people with whom I regularly meet form the nucleus of the joy of life I presently enjoy.

When I think of Landschlacht, I invariably think of Canadian writer Stephen Leacock’s Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town, and I think of Landschlacht as a kind of Swiss Mariposa.

At least to me.

Above: Stephen Leacock (1869 – 1944)

“I don’t know whether you know Mariposa.

If not, it is of no consequence, for if you know Canada at all, you are probably well acquainted with a dozen towns just like it.

Above: Flag of Canada

There it lies in the sunlight, sloping up from the little lake that spreads out at the foot of the hillside on which the town is built.

Above: Orillia, Simcoe County, Ontario – Inspiration of Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town

There is a wharf beside the lake, and lying alongside of it a steamer that is tied to the wharf with two ropes of about the same size as they use on the Lusitania.

Above: RMS Lusitania (1904 – 1915)

The steamer goes nowhere in particular, for the lake is landlocked and there is no navigation for the Mariposa Belle except to “run trips” on the first of July and the Queen’s Birthday, and to take excursions of the Knights of Pythias and the Sons of Temperance to and from the Local Option Townships.

In point of geography the lake is called Lake Wissanotti and the river running out of it the Ossawippi, just as the main street of Mariposa is called Missinaba Street and the county Missinaba County.

But these names do not really matter.

Nobody uses them.

People simply speak of the “lake” and the “river” and the “main street“, much in the same way as they always call the Continental Hotel, “Pete Robinson’s” and the Pharmaceutical Hall, “Eliot’s Drug Store“.

But I suppose this is just the same in every one else’s town as in mine, so I need lay no stress on it.

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616) quote from Romeo and Juliet

The town, I say, has one broad street that runs up from the lake, commonly called the Main Street.

There is no doubt about its width.

When Mariposa was laid out there was none of that shortsightedness which is seen in the cramped dimensions of Wall Street and Piccadilly.

Above: Street sign, New York City, New York, USA

Above: Piccadilly Circus, London, England

Missinaba Street is so wide that if you were to roll Jeff Thorpe’s barber shop over on its face it wouldn’t reach half way across.

Up and down the Main Street are telegraph poles of cedar of colossal thickness, standing at a variety of angles and carrying rather more wires than are commonly seen at a transatlantic cable station.

On the Main Street itself are a number of buildings of extraordinary importance — Smith’s Hotel and the Continental and the Mariposa House, and the two banks (the Commercial and the Exchange), to say nothing of McCarthy’s Block (erected in 1878), and Glover’s Hardware Store with the Oddfellows’ Hall above it.

Then on the “cross” street that intersects Missinaba Street at the main corner there is the Post Office and the Fire Hall and the Young Men’s Christian Association and the office of the Mariposa Newspacket

In fact, to the eye of discernment a perfect jostle of public institutions comparable only to Threadneedle Street or Lower Broadway.

On all the side streets there are maple trees and broad sidewalks, trim gardens with upright calla lilies, houses with verandahs, which are here and there being replaced by residences with piazzas.

To the careless eye the scene on the Main Street of a summer afternoon is one of deep and unbroken peace.

The empty street sleeps in the sunshine.

There is a horse and buggy tied to the hitching post in front of Glover’s hardware store.

There is, usually and commonly, the burly figure of Mr. Smith, proprietor of Smith’s Hotel, standing in his chequered waistcoat on the steps of his hostelry, and perhaps, further up the street, Lawyer Macartney going for his afternoon mail, or the Rev. Mr. Drone, the Rural Dean of the Church of England Church, going home to get his fishing rod after a mothers’ auxiliary meeting.

But this quiet is mere appearance.

In reality, and to those who know it, the place is a perfect hive of activity.

Why, at Netley’s butcher shop (established in 1882) there are no less than four men working on the sausage machines in the basement.

At the Newspacket office there are as many more job-printing.

There is a long distance telephone with four distracting girls on high stools wearing steel caps and talking incessantly.

In the offices in McCarthy’s Block are dentists and lawyers with their coats off, ready to work at any moment.

And from the big factory down beside the lake where the railroad siding is, you may hear all through the hours of the summer afternoon the long-drawn music of the running saw.

Busy —

Well, I should think so!

Ask any of its inhabitants if Mariposa isn’t a busy, hustling, thriving town.

Ask Mullins, the manager of the Exchange Bank, who comes hustling over to his office from the Mariposa House every day at 10.30 and has scarcely time all morning to go out and take a drink with the manager of the Commercial.

Or ask —

Well, for the matter of that, ask any of them if they ever knew a more rushing go-ahead town than Mariposa.

Of course if you come to the place fresh from New York, you are deceived.

Your standard of vision is all astray.

You do think the place is quiet.

You do imagine that Mr. Smith is asleep merely because he closes his eyes as he stands.

But live in Mariposa for six months or a year and then you will begin to understand it better.

The buildings get higher and higher.

The Mariposa House grows more and more luxurious.

McCarthy’s Block towers to the sky.

The buses roar and hum to the station.

The trains shriek.

The traffic multiplies.

The people move faster and faster.

A dense crowd swirls to and fro in the Post Office and the Five and Ten Cent Store —

And amusements!

Well, now!

Lacrosse, baseball, excursions, dances, the Fireman’s Ball every winter and the Catholic picnic every summer; and music — the town band in the park every Wednesday evening, and the Oddfellows’ brass band on the street every other Friday, the Mariposa Quartette, the Salvation Army —

Why, after a few months’ residence you begin to realize that the place is a mere mad round of gaiety.”

Meet the local people, if you can, to get a sense of a place.

Any opportunity to see how the locals live provides a person with invaluable background.

It is within family circles that you really grasp people’s relationships with one another, their relationship to their government, and their relationship to the rest of the world.

The food they serve you is important in more ways than your observation of the kind of food it is.

How it is served is a clue to the people’s lifestyle, as is who is eating?

Do the people speak freely?

Where do they play?

What do they play?

How do they play?

What do they eat?

Where do they eat?

Picnic in the park.

Go to the grocery store.

Go to the outdoor markets.

Stop in at the bakery and the butcher shop.

Soak up local colour at the laundromats.

Check out the department stores.

Visit the speciality shops, the bazaars, the suqs, the flea markets.

Get your haircut.

Join the congregation.

Attend an event and observe the crowd.

Welcome chance meetings.

Encourage chance encounters.

Get lost.

Listen to people’s recommendations.

Go to the bookstore.

Buy local publications.

The more people you talk to, the better feel you get for the place, the more you will learn about it and the more you will know the place.

And this is the great sadness I have with travelling with others.

Your world is limited to the circle wherein you travel.

To borrow from W.H. Auden’s Funeral Blues:

They become your North, your South, your East and West,

The journey itself and the following rest,

Your noon, your midnight, your talk, your song


You thought you were travelling, but you were wrong.

Above: Wystan Hugh Auden (1907 – 1973)

The best I can do to give a sense of the places I have visited in the company of others is to write what I have learned in as personable a way as I can, minus the encounters with locals that might have lent the place a connected context to the lives of my readers.

No, truth be told, the wife and I are tourists.

We will get in our car, drive quickly to our chosen destination, and check into a hotel – the nucleus of our new universe.

I do not condemn tourism, but it is not an exposure to life but rather an escape from it.

We descend three flights of stairs laden with luggage.

Bags tossed in the back of the car, Google Maps itinerary in hand (most scenic route if possible), GPS programmed nonetheless.

We are off on another “adventure“.

She is the love of my life, the bane of my existence.

The journey will be Heaven.

The journey will be Hell.

Fasten your seatbelt.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Mortimer J. Adler and Charles van Doren, How to Read a Book / Saul D. Alinsky, Rules for Radicals / W. H. Auden, “Funeral Blues” / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Charles Dickens, Great Expectations / Charles Dickens, The Pickwick Papers / Charles Dickens, The Uncommercial Traveller / Rolf Dobelli, Stop Reading the News / Stephen J. Dubner, “Quotes Uncovered: Who Said No Crisis Should Go to Waste?“, http://www.freakonomics.com, 13 August 2009 /Andrew Finkel, Turkey: What Everyone Needs to Know / Mark Hertsgaard, The Eagle’s Shadow: Why America Fascinates and Infuriates the World / Stephen Leacock, Sunshine Sketches of a Little Town / Luke McKernan, “Walking with Charles Dickens“, http://www.lukemckernan.com / Ann Morgan, Reading the World / Kenny Rogers, “The Gambler” / Isil Sariyuce, Sophie Tanno and Holly Yan, “Suspect in custody in Istanbul blast that killed 6 and injured 81, officials say“, http://www.cnn.com, 13 November 2022 / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / Louise Purwin Zobel, The Travel Writer’s Handbook

The way of the bull

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Monday 20 June 2022

It is a long weekly journey for a tall man.

Above: Eskişehir Otobüs Terminali (bus station)

Six hours on a cramped bus each way between Eskişehir (where I live) and Denizli (where I teach every Friday) and, for the most part, it feels like an endurance test that must be tolerated.

Above: Bridge over Porsuk River in Eskişehir, Turkey

Above: Denizli – The rooster is the symbol of the city

Nonetheless, the journey does have one compensation:

Scenery.

My spirit longs to drag my body off the bus and compel it to hike the hills and climb the crests of surrounding mountains that encircle the highways.

The journey to Denizli usually finds me distracting myself with books as the trip is made in the morning and early afternoon with daylight my constant travel companion.

The journey from Denizli, made between 6 pm and midnight, is spent with eyes cast outside the windows as sunset paints a magical silhouette that mere photographs cannot sufficiently capture.

I am reminded of the lower Laurentians where I was raised in Canada.

I am reminded of Switzerland where I resided in the decade before I moved to Türkiye for work.

My eyes seek in the Turkish silhouette the one commonality that the Laurentians and the Alps share.

In the distance I see what I had sought.

Cows.

My spirit is at peace.

A smile returns to my face.

How easy it is to forget that cows are animals…..

To Reinhard Pfurtscheller, the land he farmed high in the Alps was always a slice of Paradise.

He would wake up in a cabin more than 300 years old, cows already wandering the flower-speckled meadows, snow-capped peaks all around.

There is nothing more beautiful.“, Pfurtscheller says.

Above: Reinhard Pfurtscheller

Until that warm July afternoon when he watched medics on his pasture zipping shut a body bag.

As the helicopter took off with the victim, Pfurtschneller learned that a 45-year-old hiker from Germany had been brutally assaulted, sustaining grevious injuries to her chest and heart.

The farmer was well acquainted with her killers:

Bea, Flower, Raven, and his other cows.

Across the Alps, such attacks once were a shocking rarity.

No longer.

Amid the sweeping economic changes jeopardizing farmers’ future, the creatures that for decades have defined the region’s landscape and culture – bovine stars of tourism campaigns – have become liabilities.

Another hiker was killed a year after the German woman died in 2014 and another in 2017.

Statistics are not kept by Austrian, Swiss, Italian or French authorities, but media reports of incidents have become increasingly common.

Nowadays, signs warning tourists in English, French, German and Italian are ubiquitous:

Cross pastures at your own risk.

Hotels display brochures on how to stay safe.

Olympic skiers and famous actors help to raise awareness in TV spots and online videos, often stressing:

The mountain pasture is no petting zoo.

Yet this summer, with many Europeans yearning for the outdoors after two years of living with coronavirus restrictions, there are worries that the hiking season will result in even more attacks.

Since June 2020, at least nine attacks have been reported.

Some might think this isn’t serious, but do you know how terrifying a herd of cows charging at you is, how fast and agile they are?“, said Andreas Freisinger, an optician living near Wien (Vienna).

It is a rheotrical question.

Freisinger (50) indeed knows.

An agitated herd came at him and his family while they were day-tripping on one of the highest mountains in the eastern Alps.

They escaped only because they let their dog off the leash and the cows pursued Junior as he fled into the forest.

When Freisinger went looking for the St. Bernard mix, he heard a rapid scuffing just before a lone cow knocked him to the ground.

I was fighting for my life.“, he recounted, describing how he aimed his kicks for the cow’s udders.

Even so, the animal cracked one of his shoulder blades, an orbital cavity, and several vertebrae and ribs, plus flattened his lungs and diaphragm with the weight of a grand piano.

Above: Andreas Freisinger

The scenery that annually draws 120 million tourists would not exist if not for cows grazing.

It has been cultivated over seven centuries of farmers driving their herds to mountainside meadows in the summer.

The animals’ hoofs firm the soil, their tongues gently groom the grasses and wildflowers.

In the process, they continuously sculpt verdant pastures.

All that seemed at stake when a court in the western state of Tyrol found Pfurtscheller solely responsible for the German woman’s death and ordered him to pay more than $210,000 in damages to her widower and son plus monthly restitution totalling $1,850.

Above: Flag of the Austrian state of Tyrol

The 2019 decision shocked farmers and not just in Neustift im Stubaital, a village of fewer than 5,000 inhabitants.

Above: Neustift im Stubaital, Tyrol, Österreich (Austria)

As foreclosure on Pfurtscheller’s home and farm loomed, some farmers contemplated banning hikers from their land, a move that would cut off access to the Alps.

Others threatened to stop taking their cows into the Alps altogether, a move that would allow nature to cut back in.

Forests would soon begin to take over.

This isn’t just about the farmers.

It is the wish of all Europeans to have the mountains open for hiking.”, warned Josef Lanzinger, head of the Alpine farming association in Tyrol.

This would mean the end of Alpine pastures.“, said Georg Strasser, president of Bauernbund, the national farmers association that is one of Austria’s most powerful lobbies.

Failing dairy and meat prices had already tightened the screws on farmers, Strasser told reporters after the Pfurtscheller ruling, and the spectre of lawsuits would prove too much to bear.

Governments quickly acted to keep cows on the pastures.

State governors, federal ministers, even the then-Austrian Chancellor Sebastian Kurz spoke out in support of Pfurtscheller, a man of 62 who has been farming since he was ten.

Last year, federal law was changed to block similar litigation.

New insurance policies now cover every farmer whose animals go wild.

Above: Sebastian Kurz (Chancellor: 2017 – 2019 / 2020 – 2021)

In May 2020, the Austrian Supreme Court of Justice upheld a revised lower court verdict that held the hiker equally culpable for the tragedy, cut her survivors’ compensation to $92,400 and halved their monthly restitution payments.

The verdict was a real blow, said Markus Hirn, the lawyer for her family.

But given how much political support the farmer had, it still feels like a win.

Above: Palace of Justice, Wien (Vienna), Österreich (Austria)

Farmers feel otherwise because of the pressures they are facing.

The steep Alpine terrain limits the amount of feed that can be grown and the number of cows that can be held.

On average, a farmer in Tyrol owns 12 cows, but the more dramatic the landscape gets, the lower that figure goes.

Hikers with dogs, as well as bike riders, add to cows’ stress.

(The casualty on Pfurtscheller’s farm was accompanied by a terrier.)

To the cows, dogs are direct descendants of wolves.”, Pfurtscheller said.

If you thought your child is in danger, wouldn’t you defend it?

Pfurtscheller has posted new signs on his land warning hikers to keep dogs away from mother cows at all times.

He fences his pastures.

People want the pastures, they want cows, and farmers in Lederhosen.“, Pfurtscheller said.

But nobody sees how much effort it is.

Nature teaches beasts to know their friends.

William Shakespeare, Coriolanus, Act 2, Scene 1

Above: William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

People watch with amazement a TV programme on the social lives of elephants – their family groupings, affections and mutual help, their sense of fun – without realizing that our own domestic cattle develop very similar lifestyles if given the opportunity.

Joanne Bower, The Farm and Food Society

Cows have far more awareness and know-how than they have ever been given credit for.

Watching cows and calves playing, grooming one another or being assertive, takes on a whole new dimension if you know that those taking part are siblings, cousins, friends or sworn enemies.

If you know animals as individuals you notice how often older brothers are kind to younger brothers, how sisters seek or avoid each other’s company, and which families always get together at night to sleep and which never do so.

Cows are as varied as people.

They can be highly intelligent or slow to understand.

Friendly, considerable, aggressive, docile, inventive, dull, proud or shy.

All these characteristics are present in a herd.

Cattle (Bos taurus) are large domesticated bovines.

They are most widespread species of the genus Bos.

Adult females are referred to as cows and adult males are referred to as bulls.

Cattle are commonly raised as livestock for meat (beef or veal), for milk, and for hides, which are used to make leather.

They are used as riding animals and draft animals (oxen or bullocks, which pull carts, plows and other implements).

Another product of cattle is their dung, which can be used to create manure or fuel.

Above: Cow dung – looks and smells: not pretty, but pretty useful

In some regions, such as parts of India, cattle have significant religious significance.

Cattle, mostly small breeds such as the Miniature Zebu, are also kept as pets.

Above: A Miniature Zebu cow

Different types of cattle are common to different geographic areas.

Taurine cattle are found primarily in Europe and temperate areas of Asia, the Americas and Australia. 

Zebus (also called indicine cattle) are found primarily in India and tropical areas of Asia, America, and Australia. 

Sanga cattle are found primarily in sub-Saharan Africa.

These types (which are sometimes classified as separate species or subspecies) are further divided into over 1,000 recognized breeds.

Around 10,500 years ago, taurine cattle were domesticated from as few as 80 wild aurochs progenitors in central Anatolia, the Levant and Western Iran.

A separate domestication event occurred in the Indian subcontinent, which gave rise to zebu.

According to the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), there are approximately 1.5 billion cattle in the world as of 2018.

Cattle are the main source of greenhouse gas emissions from livestock, and are responsible for around 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions.

In 2009, cattle became one of the first livestock animals to have a fully mapped genome.

Above: Global bovine distribution

I am Cow, hear me moo
I weigh twice as much as you
And I look good on the barbecue
Yogurt, curd, cream cheese and butter’s
Made from liquid from my udders
I am Cow, I am Cow, Hear me moo (moo)

I am Cow, eating grass
Methane gas comes out my ass
And out my muzzle when I belch
Oh, the ozone layer is thinner
From the outcome of my dinner
I am Cow, I am Cow, I’ve got gas

I am Cow, here I stand
Far and wide upon this land
And I am living everywhere
From BC to Newfoundland
You can squeeze my teats by hand
I am Cow, I am Cow, I am Cow
I am Cow, I am Cow, I am Cow!

Aggression in cattle is usually a result of fear, learning and hormonal state, however, many other factors can contribute to aggressive behaviors in cattle.

Temperament traits are known to be traits in which explain the behaviour and actions of an animal and can be described in the traits responsible for how easily an animal can be approached, handled, milked or trained.

Temperament can also be defined as how an animal carries out maternal or other behaviours while subjected to routine management.

These traits have the ability to change as the animal ages or as the environment in which the animal lives changes over time, however, it is proven that regardless of age and environmental conditions, some individuals remain more aggressive than others. 

Aggression in cattle can arise from both genetic and environmental factors.

Aggression between cows is worse than that between bulls.

Bulls with horns will bunt (push or strike with the horns) in which can cause more damage overall.

Most aggressive behaviours of cows include kicking, crushing and/or blunting.

There are many types of aggression that are seen in animals, particularly cattle, including maternal, feed, comfort influencing, pain induced, and stress induced aggressiveness.

There are many components to maternal behavior that are seen in cattle, including behavior that allows proper bonding between mother and baby, nursing behavior, attentiveness and how mother responds to offspring.

This maternal behavior is often seen in cattle during lactation as a prey species, this triggers the maternal instinct to protect their young from any threat and may use violent aggressive behaviors as a defense mechanism.

During lactation in prey species, including cattle, a reduction in fear responsiveness to novel and potentially dangerous situations facilitates the expression of defensive aggression in protection of the young.

It has also been proven however that aggression is not only performed in the protection of the offspring, but it can be directed to the offspring, in which could be directly related to fear.

This is commonly seen in cattle due to high stocking densities which could potentially decrease the amount of space each cow has, as well as limit their ability to have access to feed, even impacting the ruminal environment. 

It has been proven that supplying feed and water to cattle that are housed together may be heavily associated with feed aggression and aggressive actions towards others cows and within loose-housed cattle, feeding places are noted to have the highest amount of aggressive behaviours.

These are aggressive behaviors associated with lack of comfort, inadequate lying space or time in which the physical environment fails to provide the animal.

Cow comfort plays an important role in the well being as well as maximizing production as an industry.

Within many intensive production systems, it is very common to see limited space for resting, which can be associated with negative behaviors as not providing the appropriate space for the animal reduces resting and lying behavior, increasing irritability and the potential to act in aggressive behaviours.

Although not all production systems provide limited space and time for lying, uncomfortable stalls are also known to be a major problem when it comes to lying behaviour in cattle.

Decreasing the quality of resting area for cows will decrease resting time, and increase the likelihood of stress, abnormal and aggressive behaviours as the deprivation of lying/resting behaviors is proven to affect responses within the hypothalamic pituitary adrenal axis which is associated with chronic stress in the animal.

Not only lying time and space act as important regulators of comfort induced aggression, but other environmental factors may play a role in the comfort of an animal. 

Temperature has been shown to be a factor that influences the behavioral interactions between cattle.

It has been found that, by providing cows with the proper cooling environment or as heat decreases aggressive interactions in cattle will also decrease.

Cattle with access to more shade are known to show reduced physiological and behavioural responses to heat.

There are behaviours caused by some sort of stressor that can lead to aggressive advances towards themselves or other individuals.

A stressor is an object or event that can cause a real or perceived threat internally or externally to an animal. 

Stressors are common in farm animals such as dairy cows as they live in a complex environment where there are many stressors including:

  • novel objects (new objects such as handlers, food, or group mates)
  • social stimuli (different environments, new individuals)
  • restraint (physical restraint, moved to cubicles, transported).

Dairy cows specifically have been known to be very sensitive to new, unfamiliar events or objects such as being around an unfamiliar person, or presented with a novel food item.

Stress has extreme negative impacts on growth and reproduction in cattle, as the pituitary-adrenal system is very sensitive to different environmental stressors such as:

  • inadequate space
  • feed
  • poor quality housing
  • new objects or individuals
  • new living/housing system.

Pain is defined as an effective state and can only be truly measured indirectly in both humans and animals, that may present some challenges in decision making regarding pain management.

Many things can result in pain including: 

  • dehorning

  • tail docking

  • handling

  • castrating

  • mastitis

Above: A cow suffering mastitis

  • lameness

  • confinement

  • transportation

Lameness is a common issue seen in cattle, and may occur in facilities with poor management and housing systems, and inadequate handling skills.

It is because of this issue that many cows find themselves spending a lot of time lying down, instead of engaging in both aggressive (head butting, vocalizing, pushing) and non aggressive behaviors (licking, walking) due to the pain.

Techniques such as low stress handling (LSH) can be used as it provides silence, adequate restraint methods can help minimize stress levels in the animals.

Flight zones should be considered when handling or moving cattle, as they have a blind spot and may get spooked easily if unaware if there is an individual around.

Providing environments for cows in which minimize any environmental stressor can not only improve the wellbeing and welfare of the animal, but can also reduce aggressive behaviours.

Regular examinations (physical and physiological) should be done to determine the condition of the cow, which could show signs of cuts, or lesions, as well as the secretion or hormones inside the body such as cortisol.

Cortisol can be measured through blood sampling, urine, saliva or heart rate to indicate stress level of animal.

Assessing for lameness, as well as giving proper treatment depending on severity / location can include antibiotics.

Using proper treatment / prevention for pain when lameness is examined, as well as procedures such as tail docking, dehorning, castrating, mastitis lameness, etc.

The primary treatment in lame cows is corrective hoof pairing, which provides draining of abscesses, fixing any structural issue with the hoof, and reducing weight baring problems, however if lesions are seen in cattle, antibiotics or other measures may have to be taken to reduce further infection/irritation.

Setting breeding goals can be a potential way to select for desired temperamental traits, further decreasing the risk of raising aggressive cattle.

Before this method of selection can be entirely accurate and safe, however, some tests should be done, such as behaviour and temperament tests.

It is perhaps easier to assume that animals have no feelings.

They can then be used as generators of profit without any regard being given to their actual needs, as satisfying those needs is allegedly not worth the cost.

Happy animals grow faster, stay healthier, cause fewer problems and provide more profit in the long run, when all factors, such as the effects on human health and the environment are taken into account.

W.H. Hudson said:

Bear in mind that animals are only unhappy when made so by man.

Above: William Henry Hudson (1841 – 1922)

Bovine needs are in many respects the same as human ones:

  • freedom from stress
  • adequate shelter
  • pure food and water
  • liberty to exercise, to wander about, to go for a walk, or just to stand and stare.

Every animal needs congenial company of its own species.

A cow needs to be allowed to enjoy its rights in its own way, in its own time, and not according to a human timetable.

The number of different ways a calf may be treated is no fewer than the number of ways a child may be treated.

Most people believe that children need a stable environment with warmth and comfort, good clothes and shoes, food and drink, interesting diversions, friends of their own age and adults to guide and, above all, to love them.

We do not expect a well-balanced adult to emerge from a neglected, ill-nourished, lonely, frightened child.

The same logic should apply to farm animals.

The quality of the food and the overall environment of any living creature will determine its potential in later life.

The behaviour and health of all animals is affected by the quality of food they receive and the stress to which they are subjected.

If animals feel totally relaxed and safe and know themselves to be in a familiar environment, surroundings by family and friends, they will often sleep lying flat out.

They flop in a variety of often amusing positions and look anything from idyllically comfortable to dead.

Sleep may sometimes last only a very short time, but it is important and that they should not be disturbed.

It might sound eccentric to suggest that the reason an animal is bad-tempered is because it is short of sleep, but as sleeping is vital, deprivation will obviously do harm.

Animals can make up for deficiencies in their diet by foraging and finding what they need.

It is up to us to provide conditions in which they can be comfortable and happy enough to sleep well.

Twenty things you ought to know about cows:

  1. Cows love each other…..at least some do.
  2. Cows babysit for each other.
  3. Cows nurse grudges.
  4. Cows invent games.
  5. Cows take umbrage.
  6. Cows can communicate with people.
  7. Cows can solve problems.
  8. Cows make friends for life.
  9. Cows have food preferences.
  10. Cows can be unpredictable.
  11. Cows can be good company.
  12. Cows can be boring.
  13. Cows can be intelligent.
  14. Cows love music.
  15. Cows can be gentle.
  16. Cows can be aggressive.
  17. Cows can be dependable.
  18. Cows can be forgiving.
  19. Cows can be obstinate.
  20. Cows can be wise.

Cows are individuals and possess feelings, just like humans.

Thus, they can be as unpredictable as humans.

Let us consider Switzerland.

More than anything, it is the magnificent ranges enclosing the country to the south that define it.

The main draw for visitors, they have also played a profound role in forming Switzerland’s national identity.

They are the favourite recreation grounds for summer hiking and winter skiing.

Within this rugged environment, community spirit is perhaps stronger than anywhere else in Europe.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Switzerland is heaven for outdoor activities of all kinds.

You don’t have to be a mountaineer to enjoy an active holiday in the Alps.

Switzerland has some of Europe’s finest walking terrain with enough variety to suit every taste.

In the northwest the wooded Jura hills provide long views across the lowlands to Alpine giants.

Above: Jura Mountains

The Bernese Alps harbour a glacial heartland but also feature gentle valleys, pastoral ridges and charming hamlets with well-marked trails weaving through.

Above: Bernese Alps

On the south side of the Rhône Valley, the Pennine Alps are burdened with snow and glaciers, yet walkers’ paths lead along their moraines.

Above: Pennine Alps

In the mountains of Ticino, which are almost completely ice-free in summer, you will find trails galore linking modest, lake-jewelled peaks.

Above: Ticino mountains

In tourist areas walkers can use chairlifts, gondolas and cable cars in summer and autumn to reach high trails.

Paths are well-maintained and clearly marked with regular yellow signposts displaying the names of major landmark destinations, often with an estimate of the time it takes to walk to them. Most signposts also have a white plate giving the name and altitude of the spot you are standing on.

A Wanderweg / Chemin de randonnée pédestre / Sentiero escursionistico remains either in the valley or travels the hillsides at a modest attitude, is sometimes surfaced and will be graded at a relatively gentle angle.

Yellow diamonds or pointers show the continuation of the route.

No one should venture into the outdoors without consulting a good map.

In Switzerland, local shops and tourist offices usually stock a selection, including walkers’ maps with routes and times.

Always check the weather forecast before setting out.

Do not venture to high altitudes if bad weather is expected.

It is sensible to take a fleece and waterproof wherever you go.

On more ambitious outings it is essential with wind- and waterproof clothing and good footwear.

Frequent official avalanche bulletins are published online and publicized widely in mountain areas.

I have been caught outdoors overnight in the mountains.

Above: Logo of Swiss Air Rescue – (German: Schweizerische Rettungsflugwacht, French: Garde aérienne suisse de sauvetageRega)

It seems to me that I have heard of at least one major avalanche in the Alps for each year I lived in Switzerland.

I had heard of at least one fatality on the trails of Switzerland every year.

As a whole, Switzerland has 1.59 million cows, or one for every five people.

So there are victims of cattle aggression in Switzerland.

Two young hikers were airlifted to hospital with moderate injuries after being knocked to the ground by a cow in the canton of Nidwalden on Saturday, 24 August 2019 – the second such incident in the area in a month.

Above: Flag of Canton Nidwalden

The hikers suffered bruises and shock in the incident involving a herd of cattle and their calves on the Bannalp in the commune of Wolfenschiessen said in a statement.

Above: Wolfenschiessen, Nidenwalden, Switzerland

The walking track that the hikers was temporarily closed.

In addition, the herd of cows involved in the attack has been moved away from its high summer pasture and back down to the valley – a month earlier than planned.

The incident was the second attack by cows on the Bannalp track in two months.

In July 2019, a dog was trampled to death and the animal’s owner was injured.

Dogs were subsequently banned on the walking track for the duration of the summer.

Above: Bannalp

One local farmer told regional daily Luzerner Zeitung that the cause of the attacks lies in the difference between cattle and dairy cows.

Cattle behave differently to milk cows.

They are quicker to feel themselves under attack and to want to protect their calves, while they are also less used to humans because they are not milked.”, explained Wendel Odermatt.

He said it often only required an aggressive animal to incite an attack.

Herd instinct and the instinct to play also played a role, he added.

In the past, there had been less awareness of this problem because dairy cows dominated in pastures, he said.

Hikers are advised to take care with such herds.

Above: Wendel Odermatt

In the summer months hikers strolling through meadows in Switzerland often underestimate the danger posed by cows.

Far from being docile creatures, cows can be aggressive, especially if they are protecting their calves.

Fatal attacks are, thankfully, rare.

In 2015, a German tourist was killed by cattle when out walking in the Laax area of Graubünden, prompting the authorities to put up warning signs.

Above: Laax, Graubünden, Switzerland

To help avoid further injury, Blick newspaper compiled a list of helpful tips on crossing meadows safely.

The Swiss advisory service for agricultural accident prevention BUL recommends walkers avoid:

–       wearing very bright or garishly coloured clothing

–       making loud noises or high-pitched sounds

–       taking a dog with you, as dogs are seen as a threat

–       looking the cow in the eye and sustained eye contact.

The BUL also offers advice to hikers who find themselves at risk of attack:

–       Back away slowly but do not avert your gaze.

–       Use a walking stick (Alpenstock) to defend yourself if attacked.

–       If you have a dog, let it off the lead, so the cow will concentrate on the dog instead of you.

Above: Jacques Balmat (1762 – 1834) carrying an axe and an alpenstock

The advisory service says the main piece of advice is to always keep quiet when crossing meadows and to observe the behaviour of the herd.

You should also keep as far away from the animals as possible.

Consider Türkiye.

Above: Flag of Turkey

Trails in Türkiye beckon.

Head for the hills on a wonderful waymarked hiking trail, like the Lycian Way or St. Paul Trail.

The exhilarating Lycian Way long-distance trail weaves its way through the westernmost reaches of the Toros.

Inaugurated in 2000, the Lycian Way runs parallel to much of the Turquoise Coast,

In theory, it takes five weeks to complete the entire trail, but most walkers sample it in stages rather than tackling it all in one go.

Starting above Ölüdeniz and ending just shy of Antalya, the trail takes in choice mountain landscapes and seascapes en route, with many optional detours to Roman or Byzantine ruins not found in conventional guidebooks.

Some of the wildest sections lie between Kabak and Gavuragli, above the Yediburun coast, and between Kas and Üçagiz.

Elevation en route varies from sea level to 1,800 metres on the saddle of Tahtali Dağ.

The best walking seasons along most of the way are October (pleasantly warm) or April / May (when water is plentiful and the days long), except in the highest mountain stages.

Summer is out of the question.

Above: The Lycian Way

The route itself ranges from rough boulder-strewn trails to brief stretches of asphalt, by way of forested paths, cobbled or revetted Byzantine/Ottoman roads and tractor tracks.

While the entire distance is marked with the conventional red-and-white blazes used in Europe, plus occasional metal signs giving distances to the next key destination, waymarks can be absent when you need them most.

Continual bulldozing of existing footpath stretches into jeep tracks is such a major problem that the notional initial section between Hisarönü and Kirme has now ceased to exist, with most hikers starting at Faralya, while periodic maintenance (and where necessary rerouting) barely keeps pace with fast-growing scrub and rockfalls.

Above: Map of the Lycian Way

The more challenging St. Paul Trail crosses the range from south to north.

Opened in 2004, the rugged St. Paul Trail offers over 500 km of trekking in the spectacularly beautiful Toros Mountains.

Waymarked to international standards, with red and white flashes on rocks and trees, it allows relatively easy explorations of a remote, unspoiled area of Turkey.

Above: Saint Paul Trail

The twin starting points of the route are the ancient cities of Perge and Aspendos on the Mediterranean coastal plain.

It was from Perge that St. Paul set out in 46 CE, on his first proselytizing journey.

Above: Perge

His destination was the Roman colonial town of Antioch ad Pisidiam, where he first preached Christ’s message to non-Jews.

Above: Antiocheia in Psidia

En route from the Mediterranean to the Anatolian plateau, the Trail crosses tumbling mountain rivers, climbs passes between limestone peaks that soar to almost 3,000 metres, dips into deeply scored canyons.

It weaves beneath shady pine and cedar forest.

It even includes a boat ride across the glimmering expanse of Lake Egirdir.

Hikers interested in archaeology can discover remote, little-known Roman sites and walk along original sections of Roman road.

The irrevocably active can raft the Köprülü River, scale 2,635-metre Mount Davraz and 2799-metre Mount Barla.

Both trails are marked with red-and-white paint flashes and take in some stunning mountain and gorge scenery, remote ancient sites and timeless villages.

Other trails have also sprung up.

These include:

  • the Evliya Çelebi Way in northwest Turkey, a trail suitable for horse riders and walkers

Above: Map of the Evliya Çelebi Way

The Evliya Çelebi Way is a cultural trekking route celebrating the early stages of the journey made in 1671 to Mecca by the eponymous Ottoman Turkish gentleman-adventurer, Evliya Çelebi.

Evliya travelled the Ottoman Empire and beyond for some 40 years, leaving a ten-volume account of his journeys.

Above: Statue of Evliya Çelebi, Eger Castle, Hungary

The Evliya Çelebi Way is a 600+ km-long trail for horse riders, hikers and bikers.

It begins at Hersek (a village in Altinova district), on the south coast of the Izmit Gulf, and traces Evliya’s pilgrimage journey via Iznik, Yenisehir, Inegöl, Kütahya (his ancestral home), Afyonkarahisar, Usak, Eski Gediz and Simav.

(Heavy urbanisation prevents the Way entering either Istanbul, from where he set out in 1671, or Bursa.)

The Evliya Çelebi Way was inaugurated in autumn 2009 by a group of Turkish and British riders and academics.

A guidebook to the route, both English and Turkish, includes practical information for the modern traveller, day-by-day route descriptions, maps, photos, historical and architectural background, notes on the environment, and summaries of Evliya’s description of places he saw when he travelled in the region, paired with what the visitor may see today.

  • Abraham’s Path, linking Yuvacali village with Harran and the Syrian border

Above: Map of the Abraham Path

The small village of Yuvacali, set amid bleached fields of wheat, lentils and chickpeas, huddles at the foot of a prominent settlement mound as ancient as nearby Göbekli Tepe, not far from the market town of Hilvan.

Here you can stay in a Kurdish village home and try your hand at milking sheep and baking unleavened village bread.

You will also be introduced to Kurdish history and culture, taken on a one-hour 30-minute walk around the village and its ruins.

Perhaps walk a part of the waymarked Abraham Path, which starts here.

Above: Yuvacali

The Abraham Path is a cultural route believed to have been the path of the patriarch Abraham’s ancient journey across the Ancient Near East.

The path was established in 2007 as a pilgrims’ way to mimic the historical believed route of Abraham, between his birthplace of Ur of the Chaldees, believed by some to have been Urfa, Turkey, and his final destination of the desert of Negev.

Above: Sanliurfa, Turkey

Above: Ein Avdat, Negev Desert, Israel

Abraham/Ibrahim is believed to have lived in the Bronze Age.

He travelled with family and flocks throughout the Fertile Crescent, the Arabian peninsula, and the Nile Valley.

His story has inspired myriad communities, including Kurds, Muslims, Jews, Christians, Alevi, Bedouin, Fellahin, Samaritans, and countless across the world.

The Abraham Path Initiative aims to build on this narrative of shared connection with its rich tradition of walking and hospitality to strangers.

The main historical Abrahamic sites on the current path are: 

  • Urfa, the birthplace of Abraham according to some Muslim traditions 
  • Harran, according to the Hebrew Bible, a town Abraham lived in, and from which he received the call to start the main part of his journey 

Above: Harran, Türkiye

  • Jerusalem, the scene for the binding of Isaac upon the Foundation Stone, according to the Hebrew Bible

Above: Jerusalem, Israel

  • Hebron, the location of the tomb of Abraham and his wife Sarah, according to Jewish, Christian and Muslim traditions.

Above: Hebron, Israel

  • the Carian Way on the southwest Aegean coast

Above: Map of the Carian Trail

The Carian Trail (Karia Yolu) is an 820 km long-distance footpath exploring the southwestern corner of Turkey through the modern provinces of Mugla and Aydin.

The trail is officially opened in 2013 and winds through some of the lesser known regions of Turkey.

The trail is named after the Carian civilization, indigenous people of Asia Minor.

Above: Inscription in Carian script

It passes through an area with many ancient ruins.

Stone paved caravan roads and mule paths connect villages from the coast to a mountainous hinterland.

There are pine forest covered mountain slopes, olive terraces and almond groves which are an important part of the region’s economy.

The trail is signed and waymarked with red and white stripes (Grande Randonée convention) allowing both independent and group travellers from inside and outside of Turkey to hike and enjoy the scenic beauty and cultural treasures of Caria.

Above: Carian Trail, Muğla

The 820 km long trail has four main sections: 

  • Bozburun
  • Datça Peninsula
  • Gulf of Gökova
  • Carian Hinterland
  • with an additional section that encompass Mugla and surrounding regions. 

All of the trail has been divided into 46 stages.

It also includes a smaller 11 km long section called Dalyan, which is isolated from other sections. Some sections and stages can be cycled.

Above: Carian Trail signage

Bozburun Peninsula section is 141.2 km long and is the official starting point of the Trail. 

It starts from Içmeler and follows Turunç, Kumlubük, Bayır, Taşlıca, Söğüt, Bozburun, Selimiye, Orhaniye, and ends in Hisarönü.

Above: Bozburun

Datça Peninsula is 240.7 km of length.

The section starts from the old town of Datça, and follows Hızırşah, Domuzçukuru, Mesudiye, Palamutbükü, Knidos, Karaköy, Kızlan, Emecik, Balıkaşıran, Akçapınar, and ends in Akyaka.

The part from Balıkaşıran to Akyaka can also be biked.

Above: Datça

The Ceramic Gulf (Gulf of Gökova) is a section with 139.2 km of trail.

The section starts from Akyaka and heads west following Turnalı, Sarnıç, Akbük, Alatepe, Ören (Ceramos), Türkevleri, Bozalan, Mazı, Çiftlik, Kızılağaç and arrives in Bodrum (Halicarnassos) finishing in ancient city of Pedasa.

Above: Akyaka

Carian Hinterland section is 174.2 km long and starts from Bozalan heading north and follows Fesleğen, Karacahisar, Milas (Mylasa), Kargıcak, Labraunda, Sarıkaya, Çomakdağ, Kayabükü, Sakarkaya and arrives at the shores of Lake Bafa.

Heading up the Latmos (Mentese mountains) the Trail continues to the summit (1,350 m), Bağarcık, Kullar, Yahşiler, Tekeler, and finishes in Karpuzlu (Alinda) which is the official finish of the Carian Trail.

Above: Karpuzlu

Mugla Environs section consists of 108.5 km of trail.

Heading north to Akyaka, the section passes through Kuyucak, Karabaglar, Mugla, Degirmendere Kanyonu, Ekizce, Bayir, Belen Kahvesi and finishes in the ancient city of Stratonikeia.

It is possible to bike most of this section.

Above: Theatre, Stratonikeia

Dalyan is the smallest section of the trail with only 11 km of length.

The route starts from Dalyan and passes by Kaunos, a historically important sea port with a history that can be tracked back to the 10th century BCE.

The Trail ends in Ekincik Bay.

Above: Dalyan

  • the Phrygian Way

Above: Phrygian Trail map

The Phrygian Trekking Route is one of the longest hiking trails in Türkiye.

Planned with great care for the comfort and enjoyment of hikers, the route passes through the renowned Phrygian Valleys where hikers may visit the ruins of ancient civilisations and enjoy the natural beauty of the region.

The trekking route is 506 kilometres long, and is marked in accordance with international standards.

The route has three starting points and the trails meet at the Yazilikaya (Inscribed Rock), which was a focal point for the Phrygians.

Hikers may start the route at the following points:

1) Gordium (Polatli, Ankara)

Above: Gordion

2) Seydiler (Afyonkarahisar)

Above: Seyydis

3) Yenice Farm Ciftligi (Ahmetoglu Village, Kutahya).

Above: Ahmetoglu

The trail starts at Gordium, the political capital of the Phrygians, then follows the valley of the Porsuk (ancient Tembris) River, passes through Sivrihisar (ancient Spaleia), and arrives at Pessinous (Ballikaya), another important Phrygian settlement.

Above: Sivrihisar

Above: Pessinous

The Trail then enters the valley of the Sakarya (ancient Sangarius) River, where you enter a completely different world.

After the Sakarya Valley, the Trail enters the region known as Mountainous Phrygia.

The Trail then reaches the Yazilikaya, the site of the Midas monument which formed the cult centre of the Phrygians.

Above: Yazilikaya

Here the trail splits into two.

One branch leads to Findikli Village passing through the Asmainler, Zahran, and Inli Valleys, once home to Phrygian settlements.

Above: Findikli

This branch terminates at Yenice Farm on the highway between Kutahya and Eskişehir.

Above: Yenice Farm

The other branch passes through Saricaova, a picturesque Circassian village, and Döğer, town in Afyonkarahisar.

Above: Sancaova, Afyonkarahisar Province

Above: Döğer

The Trail then takes you through Ayazini Town before coming to an end at Seydiler, on the highway between Afyonkarahisar and Ankara.

Hikers who complete these trails will treasure the memory forever.

Above: Byzantine Church, Ayazini

The alpine Kaçkar Dağlari, paralleling the Black Sea, are the most rewarding mountains in Turkey for trekking.

Above: Kaçkar Daği

Also noteworthy are the limestone Toros (Taurus) ranges, especially the lofty Aladağlar mountains south of Cappadocia.

Above: Demirkazik Crest of Aladağ Mountain

Türkiye’s wild mountain ranges are a treat for experienced hikers prepared to carry their own tents and food and cope with few facilities.

The lack of decent maps maps makes mountain exploration a real adventure, but the unspoiled countryside, the hospitality of rural Turks, the fascination of yaylas (summer pastures), and the friendliness of other mountaineers more than compensate.

Above: The Black Sea’s mountain pastures – Türkiye’s very own Switzerland

Turkish trails pass through pastures.

Pastures provide fodder for flocks of sheep and herds of cattle.

The cattle number estimate for 2019 was 15.8 million head.

Chances are a hiker in Türkiye will encounter a cow.

Hopefully, without incident.

In the two nations wherein I am classified as a resident, there remain many trails I long to explore.

My attitude to nature, despite my not being a vegetarian, tends to be one of compassion and cooperation rather than confrontation and conflict.

I would rather be a Wordsworth than a wilderness warrior.

Above: William Wordsworth (1770 – 1850)

William Wordsworth is estimated to have walked a distance of over 175,000 English miles in the course of his life, a life of unclouded happiness.

Wordsworth made walking central to his life and art to a degree almost unparalleled before or since.

He went walking almost every day of his adult life.

Walking was both how he encountered the world and how he composed his poetry.

For Wordsworth, walking was not merely a mode of travelling, but of being.

A walk in the country is the equivalent of going to church, a tour through Westmoreland is as good as a pilgrimage to Jerusalem.

Aldous Huxley

Above: Aldous Huxley (1894 – 1963)

But not all men view the cow as one of God’s creatures.

Not all men avoid the potential aggression of cattle.

Some seek to provoke a beast to rage.

Above: Spanish bullfight underway in the Plaza de Toros Las Ventas in Madrid, 9 October 2005

Bullfighting is a physical contest that involves a bullfighter and animals attempting to subdue, immobilize, or kill a bull, usually according to a set of rules, guidelines, or cultural expectations.

There are several variations, including some forms which involve dancing around or leaping over a cow or bull or attempting to grasp an object tied to the animal’s horns.

The best-known form of bullfighting is Spanish-style bullfighting, practiced in Spain, Portugal, southern France, Mexico, Colombia, Ecuador, Venezuela and Peru.

The Spanish fighting bull is deliberately bred for its aggression and physique, and is raised free range with little human contact.

Above: Bullfight, Plaza de toros de La Malagueta, Málaga, Spain, 15 August 2018

The practice of bullfighting is controversial because of a range of concerns, including animal welfare, funding, and religion.

While some forms are considered a blood sport, in some countries, for example, Spain, it is defined as an art form or cultural event, and local regulations define it as a cultural event or heritage. 

Bullfighting is illegal in most countries, but remains legal in most areas of Spain and Portugal, as well as in some Hispanic American countries and some parts of southern France.

Above: Bullfight, Arles, France, 7 February 2005

Bullfighting traces its roots to prehistoric bull worship and sacrifice in Mesopotamia and the Mediterranean region.

The first recorded bullfight may be the Epic of Gilgamesh, which describes a scene in which Gilgamesh and Enkidu fought and killed the Bull of Heaven:

The Bull seemed indestructible, for hours they fought, till Gilgamesh dancing in front of the Bull, lured it with his tunic and bright weapons, and Enkidu thrust his sword, deep into the Bull’s neck, and killed it.”

Bull leaping was portrayed in Crete and myths related to bulls throughout Greece.

Above: Bull leaping fresco, Knossos, Crete

Bullfighting and the killing of the sacred bull was commonly practiced in ancient Iran and connected to the pre-Zoroastrian god Mithra.

Above: Relief of Mithra, Taq-e Bustan, Iran

The cosmic connotations of the ancient Iranian practice are reflected in Zoroaster’s Gathas and the Avesta.

Above: Depiction of Zoroaster

The killing of the sacred bull (tauroctony) is the essential central iconic act of Mithras, which was commemorated in the mithraeum (temple of Mithras) wherever Roman soldiers were stationed.

The oldest representation of what seems to be a man facing a bull is on the Celtiberian tombstone from Clunia (an ancient Roman city) and the cave painting El toro de hachos, both found in Spain.

Bullfighting is often linked to Rome, where many human-versus-animal events were held as competition and entertainment, the Venationes.

These hunting games spread to Africa, Asia and Europe during Roman times.

Above: Mithras killing a bull

There are also theories that it was introduced into Hispania by the Emperor Claudius as a substitute for gladiators, when he instituted a short-lived ban on gladiatorial combat.

Above: Bust of Claudius (10 BCE – 54 CE)

The latter theory was supported by Robert Graves.

Above: Robert Graves (1895 – 1985)

Spanish colonists took the practice of breeding cattle and bullfighting to the American colonies, the Pacific and Asia.

In the 19th century, areas of southern and southwestern France adopted bullfighting, developing their distinctive form.

Above: The Roman amphitheater at Arles being fitted for a corrida

Religious festivities and royal weddings were celebrated by fights in the local plaza, where noblemen would ride competing for royal favor, and the populace enjoyed the excitement.

In the Middle Ages across Europe, knights would joust in competitions on horseback.

Above: Jousting

In Spain, they began to fight bulls.

In medieval Spain bullfighting was considered a noble sport and reserved for the rich, who could afford to supply and train their animals.

The bull was released into a closed arena where a single fighter on horseback was armed with a lance.

Above: Bull monument, Ronda, Spain

This spectacle was said to be enjoyed by Charlemagne, Alfonso X “the Wise“, and the Almohad caliphs (1121 – 1269), among others.

Above: Bust of Charlemagne (747 – 814)





Above: Portrait of Alfonso X (1221 – 1284)

Above: Almohad Empire at its greatest extent

The greatest Spanish performer of this art is said to have been the knight El Cid (1043 – 1099).

Above: El Cid, Francisco de Goya, 1816

According to a chronicle of the time, in 1128:

When Alfonso VII of Léon and Castile married Berengaria of Barcelonadaughter of Ramon Berenguer III, Count of Barcelona at Saldana, among other celebrations, there were also bullfights.

Above: Portrait of Alfonso VII (1105 – 1157)

Above: Effigy of Berenguela (1116 – 1149), Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Spain

Above: Portrait of Ramon Berenguer IV (r. 1086 – 1131)

In the time of Emperor Charles V, Pedro Ponce de Leon was the most famous bullfighter in Spain and a renovator of the technique of killing the bull on a horse with blindfolded eyes. 

Above: Portrait of Charles V (1500 – 1558)

Juan de Quirós, the best Sevillian poet of that time, dedicated to him a poem in Latin, of which Benito Arias Montano transmits some verses.

Above: Portrait of Juan de Quirós (1487 – 1562)

Above: Benito Arias Montano (1527 – 1598)

Francisco Romero, from Ronda, Spain, is generally regarded as having been the first to introduce the practice of fighting bulls on foot around 1726, using the muleta (a stick with a red cloth sticking from it) in the last stage of the fight and an estoc (a long two-handed sword) to kill the bull.

This type of fighting drew more attention from the crowds.

Thus the modern corrida, or fight, began to take form, as riding noblemen were replaced by commoners on foot.

This new style prompted the construction of dedicated bullrings, initially square, like the Plaza de Armas (main square), and later round, to discourage the cornering of the action.

Above: Portrait of Francisco Romero (1700 – 1763)

The modern style of Spanish bullfighting is credited to Juan Belmonte, generally considered the greatest matador of all time.

Belmonte introduced a daring and revolutionary style, in which he stayed within a few centimeters of the bull throughout the fight.

Although extremely dangerous – (Belmonte was gored on many occasions.) – his style is still seen by most matadors as the ideal to be emulated.

Above: Juan Belmonte (1892 – 1962), on the cover of Time, 5 January 1925

Spanish-style bullfighting is called corrida de toros (“coursing of bulls“) or la fiesta (“festival”).

In the traditional corrida, three matadores each fight two bulls, each of which is between four and six years old and weighs no less than 460 kg (1,014 lb).

Each matador has six assistants:

Two picadores (lancers mounted on horseback), three banderilleros  – who along with the matadors are collectively known as toreros (bullfighters) – and a mozo de espadas (sword page).

Collectively they comprise a cuadrilla (entourage).

Above: Bullfight, Barcelona, Spain, 1900

In Spanish the more general torero or diestro (‘right-hander’) is used for the lead fighter, and only when needed to distinguish a man is the full title matador de toros used.

In English, “matador” is generally used for the bullfighter.

Above: Enrique Simonet’s La suerte de varas (1899) depicts Spanish-style bullfighting in a bullring, Madrid, Spain

The modern corrida is highly ritualized, with three distinct stages or tercios (“thirds“) – the start of each being announced by a bugle sound.

The participants enter the arena in a parade, called the paseíllo, to salute the presiding dignitary, accompanied by band music.

Torero costumes are inspired by 17th-century Andalusian clothing, and matadores are easily distinguished by the gold of their traje de luces (“suit of lights“), as opposed to the lesser banderilleros, who are also known as toreros de plata (“bullfighters of silver“).

The bull is released into the ring, where he is tested for ferocity by the matador and banderilleros with the magenta and gold capote (“cape“).

This is the first stage, the tercio de varas (“the lancing third“).

The matador confronts the bull with the capote, performing a series of passes and observing the behavior and quirks of the bull.

Next, a picador enters the arena on horseback armed with a vara (lance).

To protect the horse from the bull’s horns, the animal wears a protective, padded covering called peto.

Prior to 1930, the horses did not wear any protection.

Often the bull would disembowel the horse during this stage.

Until the use of protection was instituted, the number of horses killed during a fiesta generally exceeded the number of bulls killed.

At this point, the picador stabs just behind the morrillo, a mound of muscle on the fighting bull’s neck, weakening the neck muscles and leading to the animal’s first loss of blood.

The manner in which the bull charges the horse provides important clues to the matador about the bull such as which horn the bull favours.

As a result of the injury and also the fatigue of striving to injure the armoured heavy horse, the bull holds its head and horns slightly lower during the following stages of the fight.

This ultimately enables the matador to perform the killing thrust later in the performance.

The encounter with the picador often fundamentally changes the behavior of a bull.

Distracted and unengaging bulls will become more focused and stay on a single target instead of charging at everything that moves, conserving their diminished energy reserves.

In the next stage, the tercio de banderillas (“the third of banderillas“), each of the three banderilleros attempts to plant two banderillas, sharp barbed sticks, into the bull’s shoulders.

These anger and agitate the bull reinvigorating him from the aplomado (‘leadened‘) state his attacks on the horse and injuries from the lance left him in.

Sometimes a matador will place his own banderillas.

If so, he usually embellishes this part of his performance and employs more varied maneuvers than the standard al cuarteo method commonly used by banderilleros.

In the final stage, the tercio de muerte (“the third of death“), the matador re-enters the ring alone with a smaller red cloth, or muleta, and a sword.

It is a common misconception that the colour red is supposed to anger the bull.

The animals are functionally colour blind in this respect:

The bull is incited to charge by the movement of the muleta. 

The muleta is thought to be red to mask the bull’s blood, although the colour is now a matter of tradition.

The matador uses his muleta to attract the bull in a series of passes, which serve the dual purpose of wearing the animal down for the kill and creating sculptural forms between man and animal that can fascinate or thrill the audience, and which when linked together in a rhythm create a dance of passes, or faena.

The matador will often try to enhance the drama of the dance by bringing the bull’s horns especially close to his body.

The faena refers to the entire performance with the muleta.

The faena is usually broken down into tandas, or “series“, of passes.

The faena ends with a final series of passes in which the matador, using the cape, tries to maneuver the bull into a position to stab it between the shoulder blades going over the horns and thus exposing his own body to the bull.

The sword is called estoque, and the act of thrusting the sword is called an estocada.

During the initial series, while the matador in part is performing for the crowd, he uses a fake sword (estoque simulado).

This is made of wood or aluminum, making it lighter and much easier to handle.

The estoque de verdad (real sword) is made out of steel.

At the end of the tercio de muerte, when the matador has finished his faena, he will change swords to take up the steel one.

He performs the estocada with the intent of piercing the heart or aorta, or severing other major blood vessels to induce a quick death if all goes according to plan.

Often this does not happen and repeated efforts must be made to bring the bull down, sometimes the matador changing to the ‘descabello‘, which resembles a sword, but is actually a heavy dagger blade at the end of a steel rod which is thrust between the cervical vertebrae to sever the spinal column and induce instant death.

Even if the descabello is not required and the bull falls quickly from the sword one of the banderilleros will perform this function with an actual dagger to ensure the bull is dead.

If the matador has performed particularly well, the crowd may petition the President by waving white handkerchiefs to award the matador an ear of the bull.

If his performance was exceptional, the President will award two ears.

In certain more rural rings, the practice includes an award of the bull’s tail.

Very rarely, if the public and the matador believe that the bull has fought extremely bravely – and the breeder of the bull agrees to have it return to the ranch – the event’s President may grant a pardon (indulto).

If the indulto is granted, the bull’s life is spared.

It leaves the ring alive and is returned to its home ranch for treatment and then to become a semental, or seed-bull, for the rest of its life.

Spanish-style bullfighting is normally fatal for the bull, but it is also dangerous for the matador.

The danger for the bullfighter is essential.

If there is no danger, it is not considered bullfighting in Spain.

Matadors are usually gored every season, with picadors and banderilleros being gored less often.

With the discovery of antibiotics and advances in surgical techniques, fatalities are now rare, although over the past three centuries 534 professional bullfighters have died in the ring or from injuries sustained there.

Above: Francisco de Goya, Death of the Picador, 1793

Most recently, Iván Fandiño died of injuries he sustained after being gored by a bull on 17 June 2017, in Aire-sur-l’Adour, France.

Above: Iván Fandiño (1980 – 2017)

Some matadors, notably Juan Belmonte, have been seriously gored many times:

According to Ernest Hemingway, Belmonte’s legs were marred by many ugly scars.

A special type of surgeon has developed, in Spain and elsewhere, to treat cornadas, or horn wounds.

Above: Juan Belmonte (1892 – 1962)

A digression about Hemingway:

Ernest Miller Hemingway (1899 – 1961) was an American novelist, short-story writer, and journalist.

His economical and understated style — which he termed the iceberg theory — had a strong influence on 20th-century fiction, while his adventurous lifestyle and public image brought him admiration from later generations.

Hemingway produced most of his work between the mid-1920s and the mid-1950s.

He was awarded the 1954 Nobel Prize in Literature.

He published seven novels, six short-story collections, and two nonfiction works.

Three of his novels, four short-story collections, and three nonfiction works were published posthumously.

Many of his works are considered classics of American literature.

Above: Ernest Hemingway (1899 – 1961)

A digression within a digression:

The iceberg theory (or theory of omission) is a writing technique coined by American writer Ernest Hemingway.

As a young journalist, Hemingway had to focus his newspaper reports on immediate events, with very little context or interpretation.

When he became a writer of short stories, he retained this minimalistic style, focusing on surface elements without explicitly discussing underlying themes.

Hemingway believed the deeper meaning of a story should not be evident on the surface, but should shine through implicitly.

In 1923, Hemingway conceived of the idea of a new theory of writing after finishing his short story “Out of Season“.

In A Moveable Feast (1964), his posthumously published memoirs about his years as a young writer in Paris, he explains:

I omitted the real end of “Out of Season” which was that the old man hanged himself.

This was omitted on my new theory that you could omit anything.

The omitted part would strengthen the story.” 

In chapter 16 of Death in the Afternoon he compares his theory about writing to an iceberg.

Hemingway’s biographer Carlos Baker believed that as a writer of short stories Hemingway learned:

How to get the most from the least, how to prune language and avoid waste motion, how to multiply intensities, and how to tell nothing but the truth in a way that allowed for telling more than the truth.

Baker also notes that the writing style of the “iceberg theory” suggests that a story’s narrative and nuanced complexities, complete with symbolism, operate under the surface of the story itself.

For example, Hemingway believed a writer could describe an action, such as Nick Adams fishing in “Big Two-Hearted River“, while conveying a different message about the action itself — Nick Adams concentrating on fishing to the extent that he does not have to think about the unpleasantness of his war experience. 

In his essay “The Art of the Short Story“, Hemingway is clear about his method:

A few things I have found to be true.

If you leave out important things or events that you know about, the story is strengthened.

If you leave or skip something because you do not know it, the story will be worthless.

The test of any story is how very good the stuff that you, not your editors, omit.” 

A writer explained how it brings a story gravitas:

Hemingway said that only the tip of the iceberg showed in fiction — your reader will see only what is above the water — but the knowledge that you have about your character that never makes it into the story acts as the bulk of the iceberg.

And that is what gives your story weight and gravitas.

Jenna Blum , The Author at Work

From reading Rudyard Kipling, Hemingway absorbed the practice of shortening prose as much as it could take.

Above: Rudyard Kipling (1865 – 1936)

Of the concept of omission, Hemingway wrote in “The Art of the Short Story“:

You could omit anything if you knew that you omitted and the omitted part would strengthen the story and make people feel something more than they understood.

By making invisible the structure of the story, he believed the author strengthened the piece of fiction and that the “quality of a piece could be judged by the quality of the material the author eliminated.

His style added to the aesthetic: using “declarative sentences and direct representations of the visible world” with simple and plain language, Hemingway became “the most influential prose stylist in the 20th century” according to biographer Meyers.

In her paper “Hemingway’s Camera Eye“, Zoe Trodd explains that Hemingway uses repetition in prose to build a collage of snapshots to create an entire picture.

Of his iceberg theory, she claims, it “is also a glacier waterfall, infused with movement by his multi-focal aesthetic“.

Furthermore, she believes that Hemingway’s iceberg theory “demanded that the reader feel the whole story” and that the reader is meant to “fill the gaps left by his omissions with their feelings“.

Above: Zoe Trodd

Hemingway scholar Jackson Benson believes Hemingway used autobiographical details to work as framing devices to write about life in general — not only about his life.

For example, Benson postulates that Hemingway used his experiences and drew them out further with “what if” scenarios:

What if I were wounded in such a way that I could not sleep at night?

What if I were wounded and made crazy, what would happen if I were sent back to the front?

By separating himself from the characters he created, Hemingway strengthens the drama.

The means of achieving a strong drama is to minimize, or omit, the feelings that produced the fiction he wrote.

Hemingway’s iceberg theory highlights the symbolic implications of art.

He makes use of physical action to provide an interpretation of the nature of man’s existence.

It can be convincingly proved that, “while representing human life through fictional forms, he has consistently set man against the background of his world and universe to examine the human situation from various points of view.”

We return to the larger digression:

Hemingway was raised in Oak Park, Illinois.

After high school, he was a reporter for a few months for the Kansas City Star before leaving for the Italian Front to enlist as an ambulance driver in World War I.

In 1918, he was seriously wounded and returned home.

His wartime experiences formed the basis for his novel A Farewell to Arms (1929).

In the 1920s Hemingway lived in Paris as a foreign correspondent for the Toronto Star.

Americans were drawn to Paris in the Roaring Twenties by the favourable exchange rate, with as many as 200,000 English-speaking expatriates living there.

The Paris Tribune reported in 1925 that Paris had an American hospital, an American library, and an American Chamber of Commerce. 

Many American writers were disenchanted with the US, where they found less artistic freedom than in Europe.

(For example, Hemingway was in Paris during the period when Ulysses, written by his friend James Joyce, was banned and burned in New York.)

Above: James Joyce (1882 – 1941)

Hemingway travelled to Smyrna to report on the Greco-Turkish War (1919 – 1922).

He wanted to use his journalism experience to write fiction, believing that a story could be based on real events when a writer distilled his own experiences in such a way that, according to biographer Jeffrey Meyers, “what he made up was truer than what he remembered“.

Above: The Great Fire of Smyrna, 13 – 22 September 1922

In 1921, he married Hadley Richardson (1891 – 1979), the first of four wives.

Above: Hadley and Ernest Hemingway in Chamby, Switzerland, 1922

With his wife Hadley, Hemingway first visited the Festival of San Fermin in Pamplona in 1923, where he was following his recent passion for bullfighting.

Above: Festival of San Fermin, Pamplona, Spain

The couple returned to Pamplona in 1924 — enjoying the trip immensely — this time accompanied by Chink Dorman-Smith, John Dos Passos, Donald Ogden Stewart and his wife.

Above: Major General Sir Eric “Chink” Dorman-Smith (1895 – 1969): Major General Dorman-Smith (left) talking with the Chief of the Imperial General Staff, General Sir Alan Brooke at El Alamein.

Above: John dos Passos (1896 – 1970)

Above: Donald Ogden Stewart (1894 – 1980)

The Hemingways returned a third time in June 1925 and stayed at the hotel of his friend Juanito Quintana.

Above: Juanito Quintana (1891 – 1974)

That year, they brought with them a different group of American and British expatriates: Hemingway’s Michigan boyhood friend Bill Smith, Stewart, recently divorced Duff, Lady Twysden, her lover Pat Guthrie, and Harold Loeb.

Above: Always exploring, Ernest Hemingway spent much of his youth exploring northern Michigan. Here he seen canoeing as a young man.

Above: Mary Duff Stirling Smurthwaite, Lady Twysden (1891 – 1938)

Above: Harold Loeb (1891 – 1974)

Hemingway’s memory spanning multiple trips might explain the inconsistent timeframe in the novel indicating both 1924 and 1925.

In Pamplona, the group quickly disintegrated.

Above: Hemingway (left), with Harold Loeb, Duff Twysden (in hat), Hadley Richardson, Donald Ogden Stewart (obscured), and Pat Guthrie (far right) at a café in Pamplona, Spain, July 1925

Hemingway, attracted to Duff, was jealous of Loeb, who had recently been on a romantic getaway with her.

By the end of the week the two men had a public fistfight.

Against this background was the influence of the young matador from Ronda, Cayetano Ordóñez, whose brilliance in the bullring affected the spectators.

Ordóñez honored Hemingway’s wife by presenting her, from the bullring, with the ear of a bull he killed.

Above: Statue of Cayetano Ordóñez (1904 – 1961), Ronda, Spain

Outside of Pamplona, the fishing trip to the Irati River (near Burgette in Navarre) was marred by polluted water.

Above: Irati River

Hemingway had intended to write a nonfiction book about bullfighting, but then decided that the week’s experiences had presented him with enough material for a novel.

A few days after the fiesta ended, on his birthday (21 July), he began writing what would eventually become The Sun Also Rises.

By 17 August, with 14 chapters written and a working title of Fiesta chosen, Hemingway returned to Paris.

He finished the draft on 21 September 1925, writing a foreword the following weekend and changing the title to The Lost Generation.

A few months later, in December 1925, Hemingway and his wife spent the winter in Schruns, Austria, where he began revising the manuscript extensively. 

Above: Schruns, Austria

Pauline Pfeiffer (1895 – 1951) joined them in January, and — against Hadley’s advice — urged him to sign a contract with Scribner’s.

Hemingway left Austria for a quick trip to New York to meet with the publishers, and on his return, during a stop in Paris, began an affair with Pauline.

Above: Ernest and Pauline Hemingway

He returned to Schruns to finish the revisions in March. 

In June, he was in Pamplona with both Richardson and Pfeiffer.

On their return to Paris, Richardson asked for a separation, and left for the south of France. 

In August, alone in Paris, Hemingway completed the proofs, dedicating the novel to his wife and son.

After the publication of the book in October, Hadley asked for a divorce.

Hemingway subsequently gave her the book’s royalties.

Hemingway’s debut novel, The Sun Also Rises, was published in 1926.

The Sun Also Rises is a 1926 novel by Hemingway, his first, that portrays American and British expatriates who travel from Paris to the Festival of San Fermin in Pamplona to watch the running of the bulls and the bullfights.

An early and enduring modernist novel, it received mixed reviews upon publication.

However, Hemingway biographer Jeffrey Meyers writes that it is now “recognized as Hemingway’s greatest work“, and Hemingway scholar Linda Wagner-Martin calls it his most important novel.

The novel is a roman à clef:

The characters are based on real people in Hemingway’s circle, and the action is based on real events, particularly Hemingway’s life in Paris in the 1920s and a trip to Spain in 1925 for the Pamplona festival and fishing in the Pyrenees.

Hemingway presents his notion that the “Lost Generation“— considered to have been decadent, dissolute, and irretrievably damaged by World War I — was in fact resilient and strong.

Hemingway investigates the themes of love and death, the revivifying power of nature, and the concept of masculinity.

His spare writing style, combined with his restrained use of description to convey characterizations and action, demonstrates his “iceberg theory” of writing.

On the surface, the novel is a love story between the protagonist Jake Barnes — a man whose war wound has made him unable to have sex — and the promiscuous divorcée Lady Brett Ashley.

The characters form a group, sharing similar norms, and each greatly affected by the war.

Hemingway captures the angst of the age and transcends the love story of Brett and Jake, although they are representative of the period:

Brett is starved for reassurance and love.

Jake is sexually maimed.

His wound symbolizes the disability of the age, the disillusion, and the frustrations felt by an entire generation.

Hemingway thought he lost touch with American values while living in Paris, but his biographer Michael Reynolds claims the opposite, seeing evidence of the author’s midwestern American values in the novel.

Hemingway admired hard work.

He portrayed the matadors and the prostitutes, who work for a living, in a positive manner, but Brett, who prostitutes herself, is emblematic of “the rotten crowd” living on inherited money.

It is Jake, the working journalist, who pays the bills again and again when those who can pay do not.

Hemingway shows, through Jake‘s actions, his disapproval of the people who did not pay up.

Reynolds says that Hemingway shows the tragedy, not so much of the decadence of the Montparnasse crowd, but of the decline in American values of the period.

As such, the author created an American hero who is impotent and powerless.

Jake becomes the moral center of the story.

He never considers himself part of the expatriate crowd because he is a working man.

To Jake a working man is genuine and authentic, and those who do not work for a living spend their lives posing.

Jake is an expatriate American journalist living in Paris, while Brett is a twice-divorced Englishwoman with bobbed hair and numerous love affairs, and embodies the new sexual freedom of the 1920s.

Brett‘s affair with Jake‘s college friend Robert Cohn causes Jake to be upset and break off his friendship with Robert.

Her seduction of the 19-year-old matador Romero causes Jake to lose his good reputation among the Spaniards in Pamplona.

Above: Plaza Castillo, Pamplona, Spain

Book One is set in the café society of young American expatriates in Paris.

In the opening scenes, Jake plays tennis with Robert, picks up a prostitute (Georgette), and runs into Brett and Count Mippipopolous in a nightclub.

Later, Brett tells Jake she loves him, but they both know that they have no chance at a stable relationship.

In Book Two, Jake is joined by Bill Gorton, recently arrived from New York, and Brett‘s fiancé Mike Campbell, who arrives from Scotland.

Jake and Bill travel south and meet Robert at Bayonne for a fishing trip in the hills northeast of Pamplona.

Above: Bayonne, France

Instead of fishing, Robert stays in Pamplona to wait for the overdue Brett and Mike.

Robert had an affair with Brett a few weeks earlier and still feels possessive of her despite her engagement to Mike.

After Jake and Bill enjoy five days of fishing the streams near Burguete, they rejoin the group in Pamplona.

Above: Burguete, Spain

All begin to drink heavily.

Robert is resented by the others, who taunt him with antisemitic remarks.

During the Fiesta the characters drink, eat, watch the running of the bulls, attend bullfights, and bicker with each other.

Above: Running of the Bulls, Pamplona

Jake introduces Brett to the 19-year-old matador Romero at the Hotel Montoya.

Above: The Hotel Montoya

She is smitten with him and seduces him.

The jealous tension among the men builds — Jake, Mike, Robert, and Romero each want Brett.

Robert, who had been a champion boxer in college, has a fistfight with Jake and Mike, and another with Romero, whom he beats up.

Despite his injuries, Romero continues to perform brilliantly in the bullring.

In The Sun Also Rises, Hemingway contrasts Paris with Pamplona, and the frenzy of the fiesta with the tranquillity of the Spanish countryside.

Spain was Hemingway’s favorite European country.

He considered it a healthy place, and the only country “that hasn’t been shot to pieces“.

Above: Flag of Spain

He was profoundly affected by the spectacle of bullfighting, writing:

It isn’t just brutal like they always told us.

It’s a great tragedy — and the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen and takes more guts and skill and guts again than anything possibly could.

It’s just like having a ringside seat at the war with nothing going to happen to you.

He demonstrated what he considered the purity in the culture of bullfighting — called afición — and presented it as an authentic way of life, contrasted against the inauthenticity of the Parisian bohemians.

To be accepted as an aficionado was rare for a non-Spaniard.

Jake goes through a difficult process to gain acceptance by the “fellowship of afición.

The Hemingway scholar Allen Josephs thinks the novel is centered on the corrida (the bullfighting), and how each character reacts to it.

Brett seduces the young matador.

Cohn fails to understand and expects to be bored.

Jake understands fully because only he moves between the world of the inauthentic expatriates and the authentic Spaniards.

The hotel keeper Montoya is the keeper of the faith.

Romero is the artist in the ring — innocent and perfect, the one who bravely faces death.

The corrida is presented as an idealized drama in which the matador faces death, creating a moment of existentialism or nada (nothingness), broken when he vanquishes death by killing the bull.

Hemingway presents matadors as heroic characters dancing in a bullring.

He considered the bullring as war with precise rules, in contrast to the messiness of the real war that he, and by extension Jake, experienced.

Critic Kenneth Kinnamon notes that young Romero is the novel’s only honourable character.

Hemingway named Romero after Pedro Romero, an 18th-century bullfighter who killed thousands of bulls in the most difficult manner:

Having the bull impale itself on his sword as he stood perfectly still.

Reynolds says Romero, who symbolizes the classically pure matador, is the “one idealized figure in the novel“.

Josephs says that when Hemingway changed Romero‘s name from Guerrita and imbued him with the characteristics of the historical Romero, he also changed the scene in which Romero kills a bull to one of recibiendo (receiving the bull) in homage to the historical namesake.

Book Three shows the characters in the aftermath of the Fiesta.

Sober again, they leave Pamplona.

Bill returns to Paris, Mike stays in Bayonne, and Jake goes to San Sebastián on the northern coast of Spain.

Above: Images of San Sebastián, Spain

As Jake is about to return to Paris, he receives a telegram from Brett asking for help.

She had gone to Madrid with Romero.

He finds her there in a cheap hotel, without money, and without Romero.

She announces she has decided to go back to Mike.

The novel ends with Jake and Brett in a taxi speaking of the things that might have been.

Above: Madrid, Spain

In Spain in mid-1929, Hemingway researched his next work, Death in the Afternoon.

He wanted to write a comprehensive treatise on bullfighting, explaining the toreros and corridas complete with glossaries and appendices, because he believed bullfighting was “of great tragic interest, being literally of life and death“.

Death in the Afternoon is a non-fiction book written by Hemingway about the ceremony and traditions of Spanish bullfighting.

The book provides a look at the history and the Spanish traditions of bullfighting.

It also contains a deeper contemplation on the nature of fear and courage.

While essentially a guide book, there are three main sections:

  • Hemingway’s work
  • pictures
  • a glossary of terms.

Hemingway became a bullfighting aficionado after seeing the Pamplona fiesta in the 1920s, which he wrote about in The Sun Also Rises

In Death in the Afternoon, Hemingway explores the metaphysics of bullfighting — the ritualized, almost religious practice — that he considered analogous to the writer’s search for meaning and the essence of life.

In bullfighting, he found the elemental nature of life and death. 

Marianne Wiggins has written of Death in the Afternoon:

Read it for the writing, for the way it’s told.

He’ll make you like bullfighting.

You read enough and long enough, he’ll make you love it, he’s relentless“.

Above: Marianne Wiggins

In his writings on Spain, Hemingway was influenced by the Spanish master Pio Baroja.

When Hemingway won the Nobel Prize, he traveled to see Baroja, then on his death bed, specifically to tell him he thought Baroja deserved the prize more than he.

Above: Pio Baroja (1872 – 1956)

Pauline and Ernest divorced after he returned from the Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939), which he covered as a journalist and which was the basis for his novel For Whom the Bell Tolls (1940). 

Martha Gellhorn became his third wife in 1940.

Above: Martha Gellhorn (1908 – 1998)

He and Gellhorn separated after he met Mary Welsh in London during World War II.

Above: Mary Welsh (1908 – 1986)

Hemingway was present with Allied troops as a journalist at the Normandy landings and the liberation of Paris.

Above: Omaha Beach, Normandy, France, 6 June 1944

Above: The liberation of Paris, 26 August 1944

He maintained permanent residences in Key West, Florida (in the 1930s) and in Cuba (in the 1940s and 1950s).

Above: Ernest Hemingway House, Key West, Florida

He almost died in 1954 after two plane crashes on successive days, with injuries leaving him in pain and ill health for much of the rest of his life.

In 1959, he bought a house in Ketchum, Idaho, where, in mid-1961, he committed suicide.

Above: Ernest Hemingway House, Ketchum, Idaho

The Dangerous Summer is a nonfiction book by Ernest Hemingway published posthumously in 1985 and written in 1959 and 1960.

The book describes the rivalry between bullfighters Luis Miguel Dominguin and his brother-in-law, Antonio Ordóñez, during the “dangerous summer” of 1959.

Above: Luis Miguel Dominguin (1926 – 1996)

Above: Statue of Antonio Ordóñez (1932 – 1998), Plaza de Toros, Ronda

It has been cited as Hemingway’s last book.

The Dangerous Summer is an edited version of a 75,000-word manuscript Hemingway wrote between October 1959 and May 1960 as an assignment from Life magazine.

Hemingway summoned his close friend Will Lang Jr. to come to Spain to deliver the story to Life.

Popular author James Michener (Tales of the South PacificHawaiiCentennialThe SourcePoland) wrote the 33-page introduction which includes Michener’s personal knowledge of bullfights and famous matadors, a comprehensive glossary of terms related to each stage of a bullfight, and unvarnished personal anecdotes of Hemingway.

Above: James Michener (1907 – 1997)

The book charts the rise of Antonio Ordóñez (the son of Cayetano Ordóñez, the bullfighter whose technique and ring exploits Hemingway fictionalized in his novel, The Sun Also Rises) during a season of bullfights during 1959.

During a fight on 13 May 1959, in Aranjuez, Ordóñez is badly gored, but remains in the ring and kills the bull, a performance rewarded by trophies of both the bull’s ears, its tail, and a hoof.

Above: Aranjuez, Spain

By contrast, Luis Miguel Dominguín is already famous as a bullfighter and returns to the ring after several years of retirement.

Less naturally gifted than Ordóñez, his pride and self-confidence draw him into an intense rivalry with the newcomer, and the two meet in the ring several times during the season. 

Starting the season supremely confident, Dominguín is slowly humbled by this competition.

While Ordóñez displays breathtaking skill and artistry in his fights, performing highly dangerous, classical passés, Dominguín often resorts to what Hemingway describes as “tricks“, moves that look impressive to the crowd but that are actually much safer.

Nevertheless, Dominguín is gored badly at a fight in Valencia, and Ordóñez is gored shortly afterwards.

Above: Images of Valencia, Spain

Less than a month later, the two bullfighters meet in the ring again for what Hemingway described as “one of the greatest bullfights I have ever seen“, “an almost perfect bullfight unmarred by any tricks.” 

From the six bulls which they fight, the pair win ten ears, four tails and two hooves as trophies, an extraordinary feat.

Their final meeting takes place in Bilbao, with Dominguín receiving a near-fatal goring and Ordóñez demonstrating absolute mastery by performing the recibiendo kill, one of the oldest and most dangerous moves.

Above: Bilbao, Spain

Ordóñez’s recibiendo requires three attempts, displaying the fighter’s artistry and bravery that Hemingway likens to that of legendary bullfighter Pedro Romero.

Above: Pedro Romero (1754 – 1839)

Thus endeth the digressive distractions.

The bullring has a chapel where a matador can pray before the corrida, and where a priest can be found in case a sacrament is needed.

The most relevant sacrament, now called “the Anointing of the Sick“, was formerly known as “Extreme Unction” or the “Last Rites“.

Above: Chapel, Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, Madrid

The media often reports the more horrific of bullfighting injuries, such as the September 2011 goring of matador Juan José Padilla’s head by a bull in Zaragoza, resulting in the loss of his left eye, use of his right ear, and facial paralysis.

He returned to bullfighting five months later with an eyepatch, multiple titanium plates in his skull, and the nickname ‘The Pirate‘.

Above: Juan José Padilla

Until the early 20th century, the horses were unprotected and were commonly gored and killed, or left close to death (intestines destroyed, for example).

The horses used were old and worn-out, with little value.

Starting in the 20th century horses were protected by thick blankets.

Wounds, though not unknown, were less common and less serious.

Despite its slow decrease in popularity among younger generations, bullfighting remains a widespread cultural activity throughout Spain.

A 2016 poll reported that 58% of Spaniards aged 16 to 65 opposed bullfighting against 19% who supported it.

The support was lower among the younger population, with only 7% of respondents aged 16 to 24 supporting bullfighting, vs. 29% support within 55 to 65 age group.

According to the same poll, 67% of respondents felt “little to not at all” proud to live in a country where bullfighting was a cultural tradition (84% among 16 to 24 age group).

Between 2007 and 2014, the number of corridas held in Spain decreased by 60%. 

In 2007 there were 3,651 bullfighting and bull-related events in Spain but by 2018, the number of bullfights had decreased to 1,521 – a historic low.

A September 2019 Spanish government report showed that only 8% of the population had attended a bull-related event in 2018.

Of this percentage, 5.9% attended a bullfight while the remainder attended other bull-related events, such as the running of the bulls.

When asked to gauge their interest in bullfighting on a scale of 0 through 10, only 5.9% responded with 9–10.

A majority of 65% of responded with 0–2.

Among those aged 15–19, this figure was 72.1%, and for those aged 20–24, it reached 76.4%.

With a fall in attendance, the bullfighting sector has come under financial stress, as many local authorities have reduced subsidies because of public criticism.

When the COVID-19 pandemic hit Spain and the country entered into lockdown in March 2020, all bullfighting events were cancelled indefinitely.

In mid-May 2020, after more than 26,000 Spaniards had died from the virus, the bullfighting industry demanded that the government compensate them for their losses, estimated at €700 million.

This prompted outrage, and more than 100,000 people signed a petition launched by Anima Naturalis urging the government not to rescue “spectacles based on the abuse and mistreatment of animals” with taxpayer money at a time when people were struggling to survive and public finances were already heavily strained.

A 29–31 May 2020 YouGov survey commissioned by HuffPost showed that 52% of the 1,001 Spaniards questioned wanted to ban bullfighting, 35% were opposed, 10% did not know and 2% refused to answer.

A strong majority of 78% answered that corridas should no longer be partially subsidised by the government, with 12% favoring subsidies and 10% undecided.

When asked whether bullfighting was culture or mistreatment, 40% replied that it is mistreatment alone, 18% replied that it is culture alone and 37% replied that it is both.

Of the respondents, 53% had never attended a corrida.

In the late 19th and early 20th century, some Spanish regeneracionista (a kind of political movement to make Spain great again) intellectuals protested against what they called the policy of pan y toros (“bread and bulls“), an analogue of Roman panem et circenses (bread and circuses).

Such belief was part of the wider current of thought known as anti-flamenquismo, a campaign against the popularity of both bullfighting and flamenco music, which were believed to be “oriental” elements of Spanish culture that were responsible for Spain’s perceived culture gap compared to the rest of Europe.

Above: Flamenco, Córdoba, Spain

In Francoist Spain (1939 – 1975), bullfights received great governmental support, as they were considered a demonstration of greatness of the Spanish nation and received the name of fiesta nacional.

Bullfighting was therefore highly associated with the regime.

After Spain’s transition to democracy, popular support for bullfighting declined.

Above: Francisco Franco (1892 – 1975)

Opposition to bullfighting from Spain’s political parties is typically highest among those on the left. 

PSOE (Partido Socialista Obrero Español / the Spanish Socialist Workers’ Party), the main centre-left political party, has distanced itself from bullfighting but refuses to ban it.

While Spain’s largest left-wing political party Podemos (“we can“) has repeatedly called for referenda on the matter and has shown disapproval of the practise. 

PP (Partido Popular / People’s Party), the largest conservative party, strongly supports bullfighting and has requested large public subsidies for it.

The government of José Luis Rodriguez Zapatero was the first to oppose bullfighting, prohibiting children under 14 from attending events and imposing a six-year ban on live bullfights broadcast on state-run national television, although the latter measure was reversed after Zapatero’s party lost in the 2011 elections.

Above: José Luis Rodriguez Zapatero

Despite its long history in Barcelona, bullfighting was outlawed across the Catalonia region in 2010 following a campaign led by an animal-rights civic platform called “Prou!” (“Enough!” in Catalan).

Critics have argued that the ban was motivated by issues of Catalan separatism and identity politics. 

In October 2016, the Constitutional Court ruled that the regional Catalan Parliament did not have the authority to ban events that are legal in Spain.

Above: Flag of Catalonia

The Spanish Royal Family is divided on the issue.

Above: Coat of arms of the Spanish Monarchy

Former Queen Consort Sofía of Spain disapproves of bullfights.

Above: Queen Sofía of Spain

Former King Juan Carlos occasionally presided over bullfights from the royal box.

Above: King Juan Carlos I of Spain

Their daughter Princess Elena is well-known for her support of the practise and often attends bullfights.

Above: Princess Elena of Spain

Pro-bullfighting supporters include former Prime Minister Mariano Rajoy and his PP party, as well as most leaders of the opposition PSOE party, including former Prime Minister Felipe Gonzalez and the current Presidents of Andalusia (Juan Manuel Moreno), Extremadura (Guillermo Fernàndez Vara), and Castilla – La Mancha (Emiliano Garcia – Page).

Above: Mariano Rajoy

The question of public funding is particularly controversial in Spain, since widely disparaged claims have been made by supporters and opponents of bullfighting.

According to government figures, bullfighting in Spain generates €1.6 billion a year and 200,000 jobs, 57,000 of which are directly linked to the industry.

Furthermore, bullfighting is the cultural activity that generates the most tax revenue for the Spanish state (€45 million in VAT – value added taxes –  and over €12 million in social security).

According to a poll, 73% of Spaniards oppose public funding for bullfighting activities.

Above: Bullfighting in Spain by province

Critics often claim that bullfighting is financed with public money.

However, though bullfighting attracts 25 million spectators annually, it represents just 0.01% of state subsidies allocated to cultural activities, and less than 3% of the cultural budget of regional, provincial and local authorities.

The bulk of subsidies is paid by town halls in localities where there is a historical tradition and support for bullfighting and related events, which are often held free of charge to participants and spectators.

In 1991, the Canary Islands became the first Spanish Autonomous Community to ban bullfighting, when they legislated to ban spectacles that involve cruelty to animals, with the exception of cockfighting, which is traditional in some towns in the Islands. 

Bullfighting was never popular in the Canary Islands.

Some supporters of bullfighting and even Lorenzo Olarte Cullen, Canarian head of government at the time, have argued that the fighting bull is not a “domestic animal” and hence the law does not ban bullfighting.

The absence of spectacles since 1984 would be due to lack of demand.

In the rest of Spain, national laws against cruelty to animals have abolished most blood sports, but specifically exempt bullfighting.

Above: Flag of the Canary Islands

On 18 December 2009, the Parliament of Catalonia, one of Spain’s seventeen Autonomous Communities, approved by majority the preparation of a law to ban bullfighting in Catalonia, as a response to a popular initiative against bullfighting that gathered more than 180,000 signatures. 

On 28 July 2010, with the two main parties allowing their members a free vote, the ban was passed 68 to 55, with nine abstentions.

This meant Catalonia became the second Community of Spain (The first was the Canary Islands in 1991), and the first on the Mainland, to ban bullfighting.

The ban took effect on 1 January 2012, and affected only the one remaining functioning Catalan bullring, the Plaza de toros Monumental de Barcelona.

It did not affect the correbous, a traditional game of the Ebro area (south of Catalonia) where lighted flares are attached to a bull’s horns.

The correbous are seen mainly in the municipalities in the south of Tarragona, with the exceptions of a few other towns in other provinces of Catalonia.

A movement emerged to revoke the ban in the Spanish Congress, citing the value of bullfighting as “cultural heritage“.

The proposal was backed by the majority of parliamentarians in 2013.

In October 2016 the Spanish Constitutional Court ruled that the regional Catalan Parliament had no competence to ban any kind of spectacle that is legal in Spain.

The Spanish Parliament passed a law in 2013 stating that bullfighting is an ‘indisputable‘ part of Spain’s ‘cultural heritage‘.

This law was used by the Spanish Constitutional Court in 2016 to overturn the Catalan ban of 2012.

Above: Spanish Constitutional Court, Madrid, Spain

When the island of Mallorca adopted a law in 2017 that prohibited the killing of a bull during a fight, this law was also declared partially unconstitutional by the Spanish Constitutional Court in 2018, as the judges ruled that the death of the bull was part of the essence of a corrida.

Above: Flag of Mallorca

In Galicia, bullfighting has been banned in many cities by the local governments.

Bullfighting has never had an important following in the region.

Above: Flag of Galicia

The European Union does not subsidize bullfighting but it does subsidize cattle farming in general, which also benefits those who rear Spanish fighting bulls.

In 2015, 438 of 687 members of the European Parliament voted in favour of amending the 2016 EU budget to indicate that the:

Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) appropriations or any other appropriations from the budget should not be used for the financing of lethal bullfighting activities.

Above: Flag of the European Union

Most Portuguese bullfights are held in two phases:

The spectacle of the cavaleiro, and the pega.

In the cavaleiro, a horseman on a Portuguese Lusitano horse (specially trained for the fights) fights the bull from horseback.

The purpose of this fight is to stab three or four bandeiras (small javelins) into the back of the bull.

In the second stage, called the pega (“holding“), the forcados, a group of eight men, challenge the bull directly without any protection or weapon of defense.

The frontman provokes the bull into a charge to perform a pega de cara or pega de caras (face grab).

The frontman secures the animal’s head and is quickly aided by his fellows who surround and secure the animal until he is subdued. 

Forcados are dressed in a traditional costume of damask or velvet, with long knitted hats as worn by the campinos (bull headers) from Ribatejo.

The bull is not killed in the ring and, at the end of the corrida, leading oxen are let into the arena, and two campinos on foot herd the bull among them back to its pen.

The bull is usually killed out of sight of the audience by a professional butcher.

Some bulls, after an exceptional performance, are healed, released to pasture and used for breeding.

In the Portuguese Azores islands, there is a form of bullfighting called tourada à corda, in which a bull is led on a rope along a street, while players taunt and dodge the bull, who is not killed during or after the fight, but returned to pasture and used in later events.

Above: Flag of the Azores

Queen Maria II of Portugal prohibited bullfighting in 1836 with the argument that it was unbefitting for a civilised nation.

The ban was lifted in 1921, but in 1928 a law was passed that forbade the killing of the bull during a fight.

Above: Maria II of Portugal (1819 – 1853)

In practice, bulls still frequently die after a fight from their injuries or by being slaughtered by a butcher.

In 2001, matador Pedrito de Portugal controversially killed a bull at the end of a fight after spectators encouraged him to do so by chanting:

Kill the bull! Kill the bull!

The crowds gave Pedrito a standing ovation, hoisted him on their shoulders and paraded him through the streets.

Hours later the police arrested him and charged him with a fine, but they released him after crowds of angry fans surrounded the police station.

A long court case ensued, finally resulting in Pedrito’s conviction in 2007 with a fine of €100,000.

Above: Pedrito de Portugal

In 2002, the Portuguese government gave Barrancos, a village near the Spanish border where bullfighting fans stubbornly persisted in encouraging the killing of bulls during fights, a dispensation from the 1928 ban.

Above: Barrancos, Portugal

Various attempts have been made to ban bullfighting in Portugal, both nationally (in 2012 and 2018) and locally, but so far unsuccessfully.

In July 2018, animalist party PAN (Pessoas-Animais-Natureza) (People – Animals – Nature) presented a proposal at the Portuguese Parliament to abolish all types of bullfighting in the country.

Left-wing party Left Bloc voted in favour of the proposal, but criticized its lack of solutions to the foreseen consequences of the abolition.

The proposal was however categorically rejected by all other parties, that cited freedom of choice and respect for tradition as arguments against it.

Above: Bloco de Esquerda / Left Bloc ‘s logo

Since the 19th century, Spanish-style corridas have been increasingly popular in southern France where they enjoy legal protection in areas where there is an uninterrupted tradition of such bull fights, particularly during holidays such as Whitsun or Easter.

Among France’s most important venues for bullfighting are the ancient Roman arenas of Nîmes and Arles, although there are bull rings across the South from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic coasts.

Bullfights of this kind follow the Spanish tradition and even Spanish words are used for all bullfighting related terms.

Minor cosmetic differences exist such as music.

This is not to be confused with the bloodless bullfights referred to below which are indigenous to France.

A more indigenous genre of bullfighting is widely common in the Provence and Languedoc areas, and is known alternately as “course libre” or “course camarguaise“.

This is a bloodless spectacle (for the bulls) in which the objective is to snatch a rosette from the head of a young bull.

The participants, or raseteurs, begin training in their early teens against young bulls from the Camarque region of Provence before graduating to regular contests held principally in Arles and Nîmes but also in other Provençal and Languedoc towns and villages.

Before the course, an abrivado — a “running” of the bulls in the streets — takes place, in which young men compete to outrun the charging bulls.

The course itself takes place in a small (often portable) arena erected in a town square.

For a period of about 15–20 minutes, the raseteurs compete to snatch rosettes (cocarde) tied between the bulls’ horns.

They do not take the rosette with their bare hands, but with a claw-shaped metal instrument called a raset or crochet (hook) in their hands, hence their name.

Afterward, the bulls are herded back to their pen by gardians (Camarguais cowboys) in a bandido, amidst a great deal of ceremony.

The stars of these spectacles are the bulls.

Another type of French ‘bullfighting‘ is the “course landaise“, in which cows are used instead of bulls.

This is a competition between teams named cuadrillas, which belong to certain breeding estates.

A cuadrilla is made up of a teneur de corde, an entraîneur, a sauteur, and six écarteurs.

The cows are brought to the arena in crates and then taken out in order.

The teneur de corde controls the dangling rope attached to the cow’s horns and the entraîneur positions the cow to face and attack the player.

The écarteurs will try, at the last possible moment, to dodge around the cow and the sauteur will leap over it.

Each team aims to complete a set of at least one hundred dodges and eight leaps.

This is the main scheme of the “classic” form, the course landaise formelle.

However, different rules may be applied in some competitions.

For example, competitions for Coupe Jeannot Lafittau are arranged with cows without ropes.

At one point, it resulted in so many fatalities that the French government tried to ban it but had to back down in the face of local opposition.

The bulls themselves are generally fairly small, much less imposing than the adult bulls employed in the corrida.

Nonetheless, the bulls remain dangerous due to their mobility and vertically formed horns.

Participants and spectators share the risk.

It is not unknown for angry bulls to smash their way through barriers and charge the surrounding crowd of spectators.

The course landaise is not seen as a dangerous sport by many, but écarteur Jean-Pierre Rachou died in 2003 when a bull’s horn tore his femoral artery.

Above: Jean-Pierre Rachou (1958 – 2001)

A February 2018 study commissioned by the 30 millions d’amis foundation and conducted by the Institut français d’opinion publique (IFOP) found that 74% of the French wanted to prohibit bullfighting in France, with 26% opposed.

In September 2007, these percentages were still 50-50, with those favouring a ban growing to 66% in August 2010 and those opposed shrinking to 34%.

The survey found a correlation between age and opinion.

Younger survey participants were more likely to support a ban.

In 1951, bullfighting in France was legalised by §7 of Article 521-1 of the French Penal Code in areas where there was an ‘unbroken local tradition‘.

This exemption applies to Nîmes, Arles, Alès, Bayonne, Carcassonne and Fréjus, amongst others.

In 2011, the French Ministry of Culture added corrida to the list of ‘intangible heritage‘ of France, but after much controversy silently removed it from its website again.

Animal rights activists launched a lawsuit to make sure it was completely removed from the heritage list and thus not given extra legal protection.

The Administrative Appeals Court of Paris ruled in their favour in June 2015. 

In a separate case, the Constitutional Council ruled on 21 September 2012 that bullfighting did not violate the French Constitution.

Bullfighting had some popularity in the Philippines during Spanish rule (1565 – 1898), though foreign commentators derided the quality of local bulls and toreros.

Above: Flag of the Philippines

Bullfighting was noted in the Philippines as early as 1619, when it was among the festivities in celebration of Pope Urban III’s (r. 1185 – 1187) authorisation of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.

Above: Depiction of Urban II

Following the Spanish–American War, the Americans suppressed the custom in the Philippines under the tenure of Governor General Leonard Wood (1860 – 1927).

Above: Leonard Wood (1860 – 1927)

It was replaced with a now-popular Filipino sport, basketball.

Chile banned bullfighting shortly after gaining independence in 1818, but the Chilean rodeo (which involves horse riders in an oval arena blocking a female cow against the wall without killing it) is still legal and has even been declared a national sport.

Above: Flag of Chile

Bullfighting was introduced in Argentina by Spain, but after Argentina’s independence, the event drastically diminished in popularity and was abolished in 1899 under Law #2786.

Above: Flag of Argentina

Bullfighting was also introduced in Uruguay in 1776 by Spain and abolished by Uruguayan law in February 1912.

Thus the Plaza de toros Real de San Carlos, built in 1910, only operated for two years.

Above: Flag of Uruguay

Ecuador staged bullfights to the death for over three centuries as a Spanish colony.

On 12 December 2010, Ecuador’s President Rafael Correa announced that in an upcoming referendum, the country would be asked whether to ban bullfighting.

In the referendum, held in May 2011, Ecuadorians agreed on banning the final killing of the bull that happens in a corrida.

This means the bull is no longer killed before the public, and is instead taken back inside the barn to be killed at the end of the event.

The other parts of the corrida are still performed the same way as before in the cities that celebrate it.

This part of the referendum is applied on a regional level, meaning that in regions where the population voted against the ban, which are the same regions where bullfighting is celebrated the most, killing the animal publicly in the bullfighting plaza is still performed.

The main bullfighting celebration of the country, the Fiesta Brava in Quito was still allowed to take place in December 2011 after the referendum under these new rules.

Above: Flag of Ecuador

In Bolivia, bulls are not killed nor injured with any sticks.

The goal of Bolivian toreros is to provoke the bull with taunts without getting harmed themselves.

Above: Flag of Bolivia

Bullfighting with killing bulls in the ring is legal in Colombia. 

In 2013, Gustavo Petro, then mayor of the Colombian capital city of Bogotá, had de facto prohibited bullfighting by refusing to lease out bullrings to bullfighting organisers.

But the Constitutional Court of Colombia ruled that this violated the right to expression of the bullfighters, and ordered the bullrings to be reopened.

The first bullfight in Bogotá in four years happened on 22 January 2017 amid clashes between anti-taurino protesters and police.

Above: Flag of Colombia

In El Seibo Province of the Dominican Republic bullfights are not about killing or harming the animal, but taunting and evading it until it is tired.

Above: Flag of the Dominican Republic

Bullfighting was present in Cuba during its colonial period (1514 – 1898), but was abolished by the US military under the pressure of civic associations in 1899, right after the Spanish-American War of 1898.

The prohibition was maintained after Cuba gained independence in 1902.

Above: Flag of Cuba

Law 308 on the Protection of Animals was approved by the National Assembly of Panama on 15 March 2012.

Article 7 of the law states:

‘Dog fights, animal races, bullfights – whether of the Spanish or Portuguese style – the breeding, entry, permanence and operation in the national territory of all kinds of circus or circus show that uses trained animals of any species, are prohibited.’

Horse racing and cockfighting were exempt from the ban.

Above: Flag of Panama

Nicaragua prohibited bullfighting under a new Animal Welfare Law in December 2010, with 74 votes in favour and 5 votes against in Parliament.

Above: Flag of Nicaragua

In Honduras, under Article 11 of ‘Decree #115-2015 ─ Animal Protection and Welfare Act‘ that went into effect in 2016, dog and cat fights and duck races are prohibited, while ‘bullfighting shows and cockfights are part of the National Folklore and as such allowed‘.

However, ‘in bullfighting shows, the use of spears, swords, fire or other objects that cause pain to the animal is prohibited.’

Above: Flag of Honduras

In Costa Rica the law prohibits the killing of bulls and other animals in public and private shows.

However, there are still bullfights, called “Toros a la Tica“, that are televised from Palmares and Zapote at the end and beginning of the year.

Volunteer amateur bullfighters (improvisados) confront a bull in a ring and try to provoke him into charging and then run away.

In a December 2016 survey, 46.4% of respondents wanted to outlaw bullfights while 50.1% thought they should continue.

The bullfights do not include spears or any other device to harm the bull and resemble the running of the bulls in Pamplona, the difference being that the Costa Rican event takes place in an arena rather than in the streets, as in Pamplona.

Above: Flag of Costa Rica

Bullfighting was also banned for a period in Mexico in 1890.

Consequently some Spanish bullfighters moved to the United States to transfer their skills to the American rodeos.

Bullfighting has been banned in four Mexican states: 

  • Sonora in 2013
  • Guerrero in 2014
  • Coahuila in 2015
  • Quintana Roo in 2019.

It was banned “indefinitely” in Mexico City in 2022.

Above: Flag of Mexico

In Canada, Portuguese-style bullfighting was introduced in 1989 by Portuguese immigrants in the town of Listowel in southern Ontario.

Despite objections and concerns from local authorities and a humane society, the practice was allowed as the bulls were not killed or injured in this version.

In the nearby city of Brampton, Portuguese immigrants from the Azores practice “tourada a corda” (bullfight by rope).

Above: Flag of Canada

Jallikattu is a traditional spectacle in Tamil Nadu, India, as a part of Pongul (harvest festival) celebrations on Mattu Pongul Day (3rd day of the four day festival).

A breed of bos indicus (humped) bulls, called “Jellicut” are used.

During a jallikattu, a bull is released into a group of people.

Participants attempt to grab the bull’s hump and hold onto it for a determined distance, length of time, or with the goal of taking a pack of money tied to the bull’s horns.

The goal of the activity is more similar to bull riding (staying on a bull).

The practice was banned in 2014 by India’s Supreme Court over concerns that bulls are sometimes mistreated prior to jallikattu events.

Animal welfare investigations into the practice revealed that some bulls are poked with sticks and scythes, some have their tails twisted, some are force-fed alcohol to disorient them, and in some cases chili powder and other irritants are applied to bulls’ eyes and genitals to agitate the animals. 

The 2014 ban was suspended and reinstated several times over the years.

In January 2017, the Supreme Court upheld their previous ban and various protests arose in response.

Due to these protests, on 21 January 2017, the Governor of Tamil Nadu issued a new ordinance that authorized the continuation of jallikattu events.

On 23 January 2017 the Tamil Nadu legislature passed a bi-partisan bill, with the accession of the Prime Minister, exempting jallikattu from the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act (1960).

As of January 2017, jallikattu is legal in Tamil Nadu, but another organization may challenge the mechanism by which it was legalized, as the Animal Welfare Board of India claims that the Tamil Nadu Legislative Assembly does not have the power to override Indian federal law, meaning that the state law could possibly once again be nullified and jallikattu banned.

Above: Emblem of Tamil Nadu

American freestyle bullfighting is a style of bullfighting developed in American rodeo.

The style was developed by the rodeo clowns who protect bull riders from being trampled or gored by a loose bull.

Freestyle bullfighting is a 70-second competition in which the bullfighter (rodeo clown) avoids the bull by means of dodging, jumping, and use of a barrel.

The bullfighter is then scored points based on his performance.

In Central Valley, California, the historically Portuguese community has developed a form of bullfight in which the bull is taunted by a matador, but the lances are tipped with fabric hook and loop (e.g. velcro) and they are aimed at hook-and-loop covered pads secured to the bull’s shoulder.

Fights occur from May through October around traditional Portuguese holidays.

While California outlawed bullfighting in 1957, this type of bloodless bullfighting is still allowed if carried out during religious festivals or celebrations.

Bullfighting was outlawed in California in 1957, but the law was amended in response to protests from the Portuguese community in Gustine.

Lawmakers determined that a form of “bloodless” bullfighting would be allowed to continue, in affiliation with certain Christian holidays.

Though the bull is not killed as with traditional bullfighting, it is still intentionally irritated and provoked and its horns are shaved down to prevent injury to people and other animals present in the ring, but serious injuries still can and do occur and spectators are also at risk.

Above: Flag of California

The Humane Society of the United States has expressed opposition to bullfighting in all its forms since at least 1981.

Puerto Rico banned bullfighting and the breeding of bulls for fights by Law #176 of 25 July 1998.

Above: Flag of Puerto Rico

In Tanzania, bullfighting was introduced by the Portuguese to Zanzibar and to Pemba Island, where it is known as mchezo wa ngombe.

Similar to the Portuguese Azorean tourada a corda, the bull is restrained by a rope, and generally neither bull nor player is harmed, and the bull is not killed at the end of the fight.

Above: Flag of Tanzania

Many supporters of bullfighting regard it as a deeply ingrained, integral part of their national cultures:

In Spain, bullfighting is nicknamed la fiesta nacional (“national fiesta“).

The aesthetic of bullfighting is based on the interaction of the man and the bull.

Rather than a competitive sport, the bullfight is more of a ritual of ancient origin, which is judged by aficionados based on artistic impression and command.

American author Ernest Hemingway wrote of it in his 1932 non-fiction book Death in the Afternoon:

Bullfighting is the only art in which the artist is in danger of death and in which the degree of brilliance in the performance is left to the fighter’s honour.”

Above: Ernest Hemingway

Bullfighting is seen by some as a symbol of Spanish national culture.

The bullfight is regarded as a demonstration of style, technique, and courage by its participants, and as a demonstration of cruelty and cowardice by its critics.

While there is usually no doubt about the outcome, the bull is not viewed by bullfighting supporters as a sacrificial victim — it is instead seen by the audience as a worthy adversary, deserving of respect in its own right.

Those who oppose bullfighting maintain that the practice is a sadistic tradition of torturing and killing a bull amidst pomp and pageantry.

Supporters of bullfights, called “aficionados“, claim to respect the bulls, that the bulls live better than other cattle, and that bullfighting is a grand tradition, a form of art important to their culture.

In Spain and Latin America, opposition to bullfighting is referred to as the antitaurino movement.

In a 2012 poll, 70% of Mexican respondents wanted bullfighting to be prohibited.

Above: A dying bull in a bullfight

Bullfighting is thought to have been practised since prehistoric times throughout the entire Mediterranean coast, but it survives only in Iberia and in part of France. 

During the Arab rule of Iberia (711 – 1492), the ruling class tried to ban bullfighting, considering it a pagan celebration and heresy.

Above: Umayyad Hispania at its greatest extent in 719

In the 16th century, Pope Pius V banned bullfighting for its ties to paganism and for the danger that it posed to the participants.

Anyone who would sponsor, watch or participate in a bullfight was to be excommunicated by the Church.

Above: Pius V (né Antonio Ghislieri) (1504 – 1572)

Spanish and Portuguese bullfighters kept the tradition alive covertly.

Pius’s successor Pope Gregory XIII relaxed the Church’s position.

However, Pope Gregory advised bullfighters to not use the sport as means of honoring Jesus Christ or the saints, as was typical in Spain and Portugal.

Above: Gregory XIII ( Ugo Boncompagni)(1502 – 1585)

Bullfighting has been intertwined with religion and religious folklore in Spain at a popular level, particularly in the areas in which it has been most popular.

Bullfighting events are celebrated during festivities celebrating local patron saints, along with other activities, games and sports.

The bullfighting world is also inextricably linked to iconography related to religious devotion in Spain, with bullfighters seeking the protection of Mary and often becoming members of religious brotherhoods.

Above: Spanish bullfighters enter a chapel before a bullfight

Bullfighting is now banned in many countries.

People taking part in such activity would be liable for terms of imprisonment for animal cruelty.

Bloodless” variations, though, are often permitted and have attracted a following in California, Texas and France.

While it is not very popular in Texas, bloodless forms of bullfighting occur at rodeos in small Texas towns.

Above: Flag of Texas

In southern France, however, the traditional form of the corrida still exists and it is protected by French law.

However, in June 2015 the Paris Court of Appeals removed bullfighting / “la corrida” from France’s cultural heritage list.

Above: Flag of France

Several cities around the world (especially in Catalonia) have symbolically declared themselves to be Anti-Bullfighting Cities, including Barcelona in 2006.

Above: World laws on bullfighting – Dark blue: Nationwide ban on bullfighting / Light blue:  Nationwide ban on bullfighting, but some designated local traditions exempted / Purple:  Some subnational bans on bullfighting / Yellow: Bullfighting without killing bulls in the ring legal (‘bloodless‘)  / Red: Bullfighting with killing bulls in the ring legal (Spanish style) / Grey:  No data

RSPCA (Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) assistant director for public affairs David Bowles said:

The RSPCA is strongly opposed to bullfighting. It is an inhumane and outdated practice that continues to lose support, including from those living in the countries where this takes place such as Spain, Portugal and France.”

The bullfighting guide The Bulletpoint Bullfight warns that bullfighting is “not for the squeamish“, advising spectators to “be prepared for blood“.

The guide details prolonged and profuse bleeding caused by horse-mounted lancers, the charging by the bull of a blindfolded, armored horse who is “sometimes doped up, and unaware of the proximity of the bull“, the placing of barbed darts by banderilleros and the matador’s fatal sword thrust.

The guide stresses that these procedures are a normal part of bullfighting and that death is rarely instantaneous.

The guide further warns those attending bullfights to:

Be prepared to witness various failed attempts at killing the animal before it lies down.

Alexander Fiske – Harrison, who trained as a bullfighter to research for his book on the topic (and trained in biological sciences and moral philosophy before that) has pointed out that the bull lives three times longer than do cattle reared exclusively for meat, and lives wild during that period in meadows and forests which are funded by the premium the bullfight’s box office adds on to the price of their meat, should be taken into account when weighing concerns about both animal welfare and the environment.

He also speculated that the adrenalizing nature of the 30-minute spectacle may reduce the bull’s suffering even below that of the stress and anxiety of queueing in the abattoir.

Above: Alexander Fiske – Harrison

However, zoologist and animal rights activist Jordi Casamitjana argues that the bulls do experience a high degree of suffering:

All aspects of any bullfight, from the transport to the death, are in themselves causes of suffering.”

Above: Jordi Casamitjana

I find myself thinking of Walt Disney’s 1938 stand-alone animated short film Ferdinand the Bull:

The scene starts with many bulls, romping together and butting their heads.

However, Ferdinand is different.

All he wants to do all day is go under a shady cork tree and smell the flowers.

One day, his mother notices that he is not playing with the other bulls and asks him why.

He responds:

All I want to do is to sit and smell the flowers!

His mother is very understanding.

Ferdinand grows over the years, eventually getting to be the largest and strongest of the group.

The other bulls grow up wanting to accomplish one goal in life:

To be in the bullfights in Madrid, Spain.

But not Ferdinand.

One day, five strange-looking men show up to see the bulls.

When the bulls notice them, they fight as rough as possible, hoping to get picked.

Ferdinand doesn’t engage and continues to smell the flowers.

When he goes to sit, he doesn’t realize there is a bumblebee right underneath him.

The pain of the bee’s sting makes him go on a crazy rampage, knock the other bulls out, and eventually tear down a tree.

The five men cheer as they take Ferdinand to Madrid.

There is a lot of excitement when the day of the bullfight comes.

On posters, they call him Ferdinand the Fierce.

The event starts and out into the ring comes banderilleros, picadors and the matador who is being cheered on.

As the matador bows, a woman in the audience throws him a bouquet of flowers which land in his hand.

Finally, the moment comes where Ferdinand comes out and he wonders what is he doing there.

The banderilleros and picadors are afraid and hide, but the matador gets scared stiff because Ferdinand is so big and strong.

Ferdinand looks and sees the bouquet of flowers, walking over and scaring the matador away, but just starts smelling them.

The matador becomes very angry at Ferdinand for not charging at him.

But Ferdinand is not interested in fighting.

He is only interested in smelling the beautiful flowers.

Eventually, he is led out of the arena and taken back home where he continues to sit under the cork tree and smell the flowers.

Rodeo, a less violent cousin of bullfighting, is a competitive equestrian sport that arose out of the working practices of cattle herding in Spain and Mexico, expanding throughout the Americas and to other nations.

Originally based on the skills required of the working yaqueros and later, cowboys, in what today is the western United States, western Canada, and northern Mexico.

Today, it is a sporting event that involves horses and other livestock, designed to test the skill and speed of the cowboys and cowgirls.

The largest state-of-the-art rodeos are professional, commercial athletic contests held in climate-controlled stadiums, with broadcasting by various television networks.

Above: Bucking horse, Calgary Stampede, Alberta, Canada, 2002

Outside of the rodeo world itself, there is disagreement about exactly what rodeo is.

Professional competitors, for example, view rodeo as a sport and call themselves professional athletes while also using the title of cowboy.

Fans view rodeo as a spectator sport with animals, having aspects of pageantry and theater unlike other professional sport.

Non-westerners view the spectacle as a quaint but exciting remnant of the Wild West.

Animal rights activists view rodeo as a cruel Roman circus spectacle or an Americanized bullfight.

Above: Barrel racing, Calgary Stampede, 2007

Anthropologists studying the sport of rodeo and the culture surrounding it have commented that it is “a blend of both performance and contest“, and that rodeo is far more expressive in blending both these aspects than attempting to stand alone on one or the other.

Rodeo’s performance level permits pageantry and ritual which serve to “revitalize the spirit of the Old West” while its contest level poses a man-animal opposition that articulates the transformation of nature and “dramatizes and perpetuates the conflict between the wild and the tame.”

On its deepest level, rodeo is essentially a ritual addressing itself to the dilemma of man’s place in nature.”

Above: Team roping – here, the steer has been roped by the header, and the heeler is now attempting a throw, Brawley Round-up

Rodeo is a popular topic in country-western music, such as the 1991 Garth Brooks hit single “Rodeo“.

Rodeo has also been featured in numerous movies, television programs and in literature. 

Above: Garth Brooks

Rodeo is a ballet score written by Aaron Copland in 1942.

Above: Aaron Copland (1900 – 1990)

Country singer Chris Ledoux competed in bareback riding and wrote many of his songs based on his experiences.

Above: Chris LeDoux (1948 – 2005)

Rodeo has also been featured in a significant number of films, and some focus specifically on the sport, including: 

  • 8 Seconds

  • Cowboy Up

  • The Longest Ride

  • The Rider

  • The Cowboy Way

American-style professional rodeos generally comprise the following events: 

  • tie-down roping
  • team roping
  • steer wrestling
  • saddle bronc riding  
  • bareback bronc riding  
  • bull riding
  • barrel racing

The events are divided into two basic categories:

  • the rough stock events
  • the timed events.

Depending on sanctioning organization and region, other events may also be a part of some rodeos, such as: 

  • breakaway roping
  • goat tying
  • pole bending.

Above: Saddle bronc riding, Cody Rodeo, Wyoming

According to Encyclopedia Britannica, the “world’s first public cowboy contest” was held on 4 July 1883, in Pecos, Texas, between cattle driver Trav Windham and roper Morg Livingston.

Above: Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show

American rodeo, particularly popular today within the Canadian province of Alberta and throughout the western United States, is the official state sport of Wyoming, South Dakota, and Texas.

The iconic silhouette image of a “bucking horse and rider” is a federal and state-registered trademark of the State of Wyoming.

Above: Flag of Wyoming

The Legislative Assembly of Alberta has considered making American rodeo the official sport of that province.

However, enabling legislation has yet to be passed.

Above: Flag of Alberta

The first rodeo in Canada was held in 1902 in Raymond, Alberta, when Raymond Knight funded and promoted a rodeo contest for bronc riders and steer ropers called the Raymond Stampede.

Knight also coined the rodeo term “stampede” and built rodeo’s first known shotgun-style bucking chute.

In 1903, Knight built Canada’s first rodeo arena and grandstand and became the first rodeo producer and rodeo stock contractor.

Above: Ray Knight (1872 – 1947)

In 1912, Guy Weadick and several investors put up $100,000 to create what today is the Calgary Stampede.

The Stampede also incorporated mythical and historical elements, including native Canadians in full regalia, chuckwagon races, the Mounted Police, and marching bands.

From its beginning, the event has been held the 2nd week in July.

Since 1938, attendees were urged to dress for the occasion in western hats to add to the event’s flavour.

By 2003, it was estimated that 65 professional rodeos involving 700 members of the Canadian Professional Rodeo Association (CPRA) took place in Western Canada, along with professionals from the United States.

Many Canadian contestants were part-timers who did not earn a significant living from rodeo.

Canadians made several significant contributions to the sport of rodeo.

In 1916, at the Bascom Ranch in Welling, Alberta, John W. Bascom and his sons Raymond, Mel, and Earl designed and built rodeo’s first side-delivery bucking chute for the ranch rodeos they were producing.

In 1919, Earl and John made rodeo’s first reverse-opening side-delivery bucking chute at the Bascom Ranch in Lethbridge, Alberta.

This Bascom-style bucking chute is now rodeo’s standard design. 

Earl Bascom also continued his innovative contributions to the sport of rodeo by designing and making rodeo’s first hornless bronc saddle in 1922, rodeo’s first one-hand bareback rigging in 1924, and the first high-cut rodeo chaps in 1928.

Earl and his brother Weldon also produced rodeo’s first night rodeo held outdoors under electric lights in 1935.

Above: Earl Bascom (1906 – 1995)

The Canadian Pro Rodeo Hall of Fame is located in Ponoka, Alberta.

In the US, professional rodeos are governed and sanctioned by the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association (PRCA) and the Women’s Professional Rodeo Association (WPRA), while other associations govern assorted children’s, high school, collegiate, and other amateur or semi-professional rodeos.

Associations also exist for Native Americans and other minority groups.

The traditional season for competitive rodeo runs from spring through fall, while the modern professional rodeo circuit runs longer, and concludes with the PRCA National Finals Rodeo (NFR) in Las Vegas, Nevada, currently held every December.

Above: Steer wrestling, National Finals Rodeo, Las Vegas, Nevada, 2004

Rodeo has provoked opposition from animal rights and some animal welfare advocates, who argue that various competitions constitute animal cruelty.

The American rodeo industry has made progress in improving the welfare of rodeo animals, with specific requirements for veterinary care and other regulations that protect rodeo animals.

However, some local and state governments in North America have banned or restricted rodeos, certain rodeo events, or types of equipment.

Internationally, rodeo is banned in the United Kingdom and the Netherlands, with other European nations placing restrictions on certain practices.

Protests were first raised regarding rodeo animal cruelty in the 1870s.

Beginning in the 1930s, some states enacted laws curtailing rodeo activities and other events involving animals.

In the 1950s, the then Rodeo Cowboys Association (RCA, later the PRCA) worked with the American Humane Association (AHA) to establish regulations protecting the welfare of rodeo animals that were acceptable to both organizations.

The PRCA realized that public education regarding rodeo and the welfare of animals was needed to keep the sport alive.

Over the years, conditions for animals in rodeo and many other sporting events improved.

Today, the PRCA and other rodeo sanctioning organizations have stringent regulations to ensure rodeo animals’ welfare.

For example, these rules require, among other things, provisions for injured animals, a veterinarian’s presence at all rodeos (a similar requirement exists for other equine events), padded flank straps, horn protection for steers, and spurs with dulled, free-spinning rowels.

Rodeo competitors in general value and provide excellent care to the animals with which they work.

Animals must also be protected with fleece-lined flank straps for bucking stock and horn wraps for roping steers.

Laws governing rodeo vary widely.

In the American west, some states incorporate the regulations of the PRCA into their statutes as a standard by which to evaluate if animal cruelty has occurred.

On the other hand, some events and practices are restricted or banned in other states, including California, Rhode Island, and Ohio. 

St. Petersburg, Florida is the only locality in the United States with a complete ban on rodeo. 

Above: St. Petersburg, Florida

Canadian humane societies are careful in criticizing Canadian rodeo as the event has become so indigenous to Western Canada that criticism may jeopardize support for the organization’s other humane goals.

The Calgary Humane Society itself is wary of criticizing the famous Calgary Stampede.

As aforementioned, internationally rodeo itself is banned in the United Kingdom and the Netherlands.

Other European nations have placed restrictions on certain practices.

Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

Above: Flag of the Netherlands

However, a number of humane and animal rights organizations have policy statements that oppose many rodeo practices and often the events themselves.

Some also claim that regulations vary from vague to ineffective and are frequently violated. 

Other groups assert that any regulation still allows rodeo animals to be subjected to gratuitous harm for the sake of entertainment, and therefore rodeos should be banned altogether.

In response to these concerns, a number of cities and states, mostly in the eastern half of the United States, have passed ordinances and laws governing rodeo. 

Above: Flag of the United States of America

Pittsburgh, for example, specifically prohibits electric prods or shocking devices, flank or bucking straps, wire tie-downs, and sharpened or fixed spurs or rowels.

Pittsburgh also requires humane officers be provided access to any and all areas where animals may go — specifically pens, chutes, and injury pens.

Above: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

The state of Rhode Island has banned tie-down roping and certain other practices.

Other locales have similar ordinances and laws.

Above: Flag of Rhode Island

There are three basic areas of concern to various groups.

The first set of concerns surround relatively common rodeo practices, such as the use of bucking straps, also known as flank straps, the use of metal or electric cattle prods, and tail-twisting.

The second set of concerns surround non-traditional rodeo events that operate outside the rules of sanctioning organizations.

These are usually amateur events such as: 

  • mutton busting
  • calf dressing 
  • wild cow milking
  • calf riding
  • chuck wagon races
  • other events designed primarily for publicity, half-time entertainment or crowd participation.

Finally, some groups consider some or all rodeo events themselves to be cruel.

Above: Mutton busting, Denver Rodeo, Colorado, 2007

Animal rights groups, such as PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals), SHARK (Showing Animals Respect and Kindness) and the Humane Society of the United States, generally take a position of opposition to all rodeos and rodeo events.

A more general position is taken by the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals), only opposing rodeo events that “involve cruel, painful, stressful and potentially harmful treatment of livestock, not only in performance but also in handling, transport and prodding to perform“.

The group singles out children’s rodeo events, such as goat tying, calf riding and sheep riding (“mutton busting”), “which do not promote humane care and respect for animals“.

The AHA (American Humane Association) does not appear to oppose rodeos per se, though they have a general position on events and contests involving animals, stating that “when animals are involved in entertainment, they must be treated humanely at all times“.

Above: Goat tying

Why must animals be entertaining?

Why can’t we simply let them live their lives being themselves?

Why must we insist that nature serve us?

 

The AHA also has strict requirements for the treatment of animals used for rodeo scenes in movies, starting with the rules of the PRCA and adding additional requirements consistent with the association’s other policies.

Unique among animal protection groups, the ASPCA specifically notes that practice sessions are often the location of more severe abuses than competitions.

However, many state animal cruelty laws provide specific exemptions for “training practices“.

The AHA is the only organization addressing the legislative issue, advocating the strengthening of animal cruelty laws in general, with no exceptions for “training practices“.

I am not disputing that man’s courage and skill and tradition as shown in bullfights and rodeos should be respected.

But what of the lives of the animals involved?

What of their dignity, their feelings, their well-being?

Man was appointed by God – if religious writ is to be believed – to have dominion over the beasts.

Everything a man does to an animal is either a lawful exercise or a sacrilegious abuse of an authority by divine right.

C.S. Lewis

Above: Clive Staples Lewis (1898 – 1963)

Humans have “dominion” over animals, but that “dominion” (radah in Hebrew) does not mean despotism.

Rather we are set over creation to care for what God has made and to treasure God’s own treasures.

Andrew Linzey

Above: Andrew Linzey

The more helpless the creature, the more that it is entitled to the protection of man.

Mahatma Gandhi

Above: Mahatma Gandhi ( Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi) (1869 – 1948)

I find myself thinking of three interconnected memories:

In a 12 May 1984 Peanuts comic strip, the dog Snoopy is seen strolling towards Charlie Brown and Sally.

Snoopy gives them both warm and sincere hugs.

Afterwards, Charlie Brown explains their dog’s actions to his puzzled sister:

You can always tell when he’s been listening to Leo Buscaglia tapes.”

Felice Leonardo Buscaglia (1924 – 1998), also known as “Dr. Love“, was an American author, motivational speaker, and a professor in the Department of Special Education at the University of Southern California.

Above: Leo Buscaglia

Buscaglia was born in Los Angeles into a family of Italian immigrants. 

He spent his early childhood in Aosta, Italy, before going back to the US for education.

He was a graduate of Theodore Roosevelt High School.

Buscaglia served in the US Navy during World War II.

He did not see combat, but he saw its aftermath in his duties in the dental section of the military hospital, helping to reconstruct shattered faces. 

Using GI Bill benefits, he entered the University of Southern California, where he earned three degrees (BA 1950, MA 1954, PhD 1963) before eventually joining the faculty.

While teaching at USC, Buscaglia was moved by a student’s suicide to contemplate human disconnectedness and the meaning of life, and began a noncredit class he called Love 1A

This became the basis for his first book, titled simply Love.

He was the first to state and promote the concept of humanity’s need for hugs: 5 to survive, 8 to maintain, and 12 to thrive.

His dynamic speaking style was discovered by PBS (Public Broadcasting Service), and his televised lectures earned great popularity in the 1980s.

At one point his talks, always shown during fundraising periods, were the top earners of all PBS programs.

This national exposure, coupled with the heartfelt storytelling style of his books, helped make all his titles national bestsellers.

Five were once on the New York Times bestsellers list simultaneously.

Buscaglia wrote a dozen books.

I have read only two: Love and The Way of the Bull.

The second aforementioned book reveals the truth of self Leo Buscaglia discovered on two trips to Asia, by travelling the “way of the bull“, as well as describing the people and physical locales of Southeast Asia prior to the Vietnam War.

The meaning of the title originated in the 12th century Zen book, 10 Bulls, by the Zen master Kaku-an Shi-en.

In Kaku-an’s book, the bull represents life, energy, truth and action.

The way” concerns the possible step one man might take to gain insight, find oneself and discover one’s true nature.

Buscaglia reminds us, however, that each person must find that path individually in order for it to have true meaning.

Consider the Ten Bulls:

  1. In search of the bull:

In the pasture of the world, I endlessly push aside the tall grasses in search of the Ox.
Following unnamed rivers, lost upon the interpenetrating paths of distant mountains, my strength failing and my vitality exhausted, I cannot find the Ox.

2. Discovery of the footprints

Along the riverbank under the trees, I discover footprints.
Even under the fragrant grass, I see his prints.
Deep in remote mountains they are found.
These traces can no more be hidden than one’s nose, looking heavenward.

3. Perceiving the bull

I hear the song of the nightingale.
The sun is warm, the wind is mild, willows are green along the shore –
Here no Ox can hide!
What artist can draw that massive head, those majestic horns?

4. Seizing the bull

I seize him with a terrific struggle.
His great will and power are inexhaustible.
He charges to the high plateau far above the cloud-mists,
Or in an impenetrable ravine he stands.

5. Taming the bull

The whip and rope are necessary,
Else he might stray off down some dusty road.
Being well-trained, he becomes naturally gentle.
Then, unfettered, he obeys his master.

6. Riding the bull home

Mounting the Ox, slowly I return homeward.
The voice of my flute intones through the evening.
Measuring with hand-beats the pulsating harmony, I direct the endless rhythm.
Whoever hears this melody will join me.

7. The bull transcended

Astride the Ox, I reach home.
I am serene.

The Ox too can rest.
The dawn has come.

In blissful repose, within my thatched dwelling, I have abandoned the whip and ropes.

8. Both bull and self transcended

Whip, rope, person, and Ox – all merge in No Thing.
This heaven is so vast, no message can stain it.
How may a snowflake exist in a raging fire?
Here are the footprints of the Ancestors.

9. Reaching the source

Too many steps have been taken, returning to the root and the source.
Better to have been blind and deaf from the beginning!
Dwelling in one’s true abode, unconcerned with and without –
The river flows tranquilly on and the flowers are red.

10. Return to society

Barefooted and naked of breast, I mingle with the people of the world.
My clothes are ragged and dust-laden, and I am ever blissful.
I use no magic to extend my life.
Now, before me, the dead trees become alive.

Without love – including love of one’s self – life is without meaning.

Each person must find that path individually in order for it to have true meaning.

In getting lost, in relinquishing the need to control, meaning may be found.

There is much we can learn from nature if we would cease trying to control it.

We fear nature, for we have given nature cause to fear us.

If we would approach all God’s creatures great and small in a spirit of compassion, aware that they too feel, that their lives possess meaning, that they too are deserving of respect and dignity, that they too must find their own path in their own ways, then maybe, just maybe, we might be worthy of life as well.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Rough Guide to Turkey / Arrogant Worms, “I Am Cow“, Dirt / Leo Buscaglia, Love / Leo Buscaglia, The Way of the Bull / Denise Hruby, “Cows bring danger for hikers in Alps“, Washington Post, 12 August 2020 / Charles Schulz, Peanuts, 12 May 1984 / Kaku-an Shi-en, The Ten Bulls / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Rosamund Young, The Secret Life of Cows

Canada Slim and the Lessons of the True Cross

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Thursday 16 June 2022

Steve Biddulph tells a story which resonates with me every time I think of it:

Two farmers stand in the dusty yard of a property.

One is a neighbour, come to say goodbye.

The other is watching as the last of his furniture is packed onto a truck.

The farm looks bare.

Stock gone, machinery sold.

Two teenagers stand by the car.

The wife sits inside it.

Eyes averted.

The two men have farmed alongside each other for 30 years, fought bushfires, driven through the night with injured children, eaten thousands of scones, drunk gallons of black tea, and cared for each other’s wives and kids as their own.

They have shared good times and bad.

Now, one is leaving.

Bankrupt.

He will go to live in the city, where his wife will support them by cleaning motels.

Well, I’ll be off then.“, says one.

Yeah. Thanks for coming over.“, says the other.

Look us up sometime.“, says the one.

Yeah, I reckon.“, says the other.

They climb into their vehicles and leave.

While their wives will correspond for years to come, these men will never exchange words again.

So much unspoken.

So much that would help the healing to take place from this terrible turn of events.

What pain would flow out if one was to say:

Listen, you have been the best friend a man could want.” and looked the other straight in the eye as he said it.

If they had spent a long evening together with their wives, full of “remember when” punctuated with tears and easing laughter.

If, instead of standing stiff-armed and choked, they could have had a long strong hug, from which to draw strength and assurance, as they faced the hardship their futures would bring.

The farmer leaving the land will not find the opportunity for any support, comfort or appreciation.

He twists up inside to suppress the emotions his body feels.

Self-censoring of any kind of warmth, creativity, affection or emotion.

No one feels free to be himself, to simply be.

A night out with the boys – the terrible trio (joined briefly by the lovely Miss S.) of “Luck of the Irish” Paul, “the Yank that Florida forgot” Ian, and Canada Slim (a legend in his own mind) your humble blogger.

Three expats from places few, if any, of our students have ever visited, on a Saturday night in a pseudo-Irish pub named the Dublin, a watering hole with as little connection to the Irish capital as an African has with Greenland.

In an ideal world men would see each other as brothers, with good things to give and to receive.

The Xervante people of Brazil divide manhood up into eight stages of growth.

These peer groups stay very close throughout life.

They are also helped by those in the group higher up in the sequence.

Each year the Xervante hold running races for each group in turn.

These races look like a contest but they are not.

When a runner falters or trips, the others pick him up and run with him.

The group always finishes together.

It is not a race at all, though everyone puts in a huge effort.

It is a celebration of manhood – an expression of vitality.

The Xervante is a culture that has survived thousands of years by cooperation.

They don’t have to prove they are men.

They celebrate that they are men.

I wonder:

Do women feel the need to prove that they are women?

Friends offer enormous comfort.

They help to structure your time.

They show you that you belong and can be cared about.

A man who lacks a network of friends is seriously impaired from living his life, from loving his life.

Friends alleviate the neurotic overdependence on a wife or a girlfriend for every emotional need.

If a man, going through a “rough patch“, gets help from his friends as well as his partner, then the burden is shared.

If his problems are with his partner (as they often are) then his friends can help him through, talk sense into him, stop him acting stupidly and help him to release his grief.

Male friends can do these things where women cannot.

Other men know how a man feels.

Men have issues which do not have a female equivalent.

Only other men can help a man learn about the ongoing process of being a man.

Millions of women complain about their male partner’s lack of feeling, his woodenness.

Men themselves often feel numb and confused about what they really want.

This is usually attributed to the irreconcilable split between men and women – the “battle of the sexes“.

But what if men’s inarticulateness simply comes from a lack of sharing opportunities (as opposed to bullshit sessions) with other men?

If men talked to each other more, perhaps they would understand themselves better.

Perhaps they would have more to say to their female partners.

Only in the company of other men can men begin to activate themselves.

As men’s voices have a different tone, so do their feelings.

We have more than enough feelings, but they are not the same as women’s.

But where women instinctively seem to have no trouble expressing themselves, many men are not as fortunate.

We have been set up.

We are asked to be more intimate and sensitive.

However, we are still coached in the possibility of being sent to war, still expected to be tough when needed.

Because toughness is needed in this life.

Toughness is expected from a man.

We and our women folk don’t actually want men who are weaker.

Just men who can shift gears when needed.

Not an easy task.

Controlling one’s feelings is a very valuable part of being male.

It has great survival value.

And all women, deep down, count on this.

But being able to also let go of these feelings, when the time is right, is another matter entirely.

For truth be told, reserve creates reserve, unspoken fears remain unexpressed.

But banter and warmth to counter the internal struggle of loss and shame teaches us respect for pain and endurance.

We live deep within.

We speak, we listen.

There is a pressure inside that builds up over a very long period of time.

We are tense, we are numb, because we have held ourselves back.

Women have their own pain and so cannot always provide what a man needs.

Failing to express the depth of what a man feels leads to a shutdown in the full spectrum of emotions – anger, fear, warmth and love.

Passion is gone.

Passion is needed.

Dearly beloved, we are gathered together to celebrate that thing called Life.

Men gather together to have fun.

Noisy, energetic, affectionate, ribald, accepting, cautious, but free from respectability or restraint.

We are harsh with one another.

We are zany.

We call out each other for the BS we all inherently have.

Character is built this way.

We are islands of seriousness in an ocean of fun.

Our lives are eased, stabilized and supported by these friendships.

We each have our own cross to bear, but it is comforting to know that others care burdens equal to our own.

That we are not alone in suffering and sorrow.

Of course, the question arises:

What are we doing with our lives?

We sip our drinks, and I am reminded of Ronald Gross’ The Independent Scholar’s Handbook:

Ronald, I have always made a respectable living, but I have not been willing to give up my life to getting the kind of money with which you can buy the best things in life.

I am stuck in business and routine and tedium.

I must live as I can.

But I give up only as much as I must.

For the rest, I have lived, and always will live, my life as it can be lived at its best, with art, music, poetry, literature, science, philosophy and thought.

I shall know the keener pleasures, as long as I can and as much as I can.

That is the real practical use of self-education and self-culture.

It converts a world which is only a good world for those who can win at its ruthless game into a world good for all of us.

Your education is the only thing that nothing can take from you in this life.

You can lose your money, your wife, your children, your friends, your pride, your honour and your life, but while you live you cannot lose your culture, such as it is.

Sometimes I think that ESL teachers are the plongeurs (the dishwashers) of language.

Ours is a job that offers little prospects beyond more hours that may generate more trivial amounts of money spent in more frivolous ways.

Our lives are intensely exhausting, though we must pretend to possess an energy we do not really feel.

To be enthusiastic, we act enthusiastic.

But the more honest an ESL teacher is, the more he admits that this energy is merely a generated sham to encourage those who cannot learn that they should nevertheless try.

We try to bring hope to the hopeless and happiness to the hapless, even though we know that many of those in our charge possess hardly a whit (or wit) of skill or interest in our struggles to somehow educate them.

Ours is the sort of job a lazy man thinks enviable, only to soon realize that advancement (what little there might be) requires effort even in this endeavour.

This is the sort of job an alcoholic might consider doing in his brief moments of sobriety.

All that is required is to speak words that sound plausible for the monies of the gullible.

We avoid penury and injury by pretending wisdom and intelligence.

Happily, some of us need not pretend.

But low as we are and as far removed as we may be from the sacred groves of Academe, we possess a perverse pride that sustains us.

It is the pride of the drudge.

We are intellectual beasts of burden, oxen dragging ploughshares through the barren fields of blissful ignorance, seeking a harvest that can maintain us.

We will teach anyone anything if it is sought and taught in English.

Our capacity to continue is our only virtue.

Our brilliant ruse that we can teach the improbable to the impossible is our only vice.

Some of us when school shifts end stagger bone-weary to our bowers, turn on our laptops and continue to teach online for as long as there are students willing to learn in the remaining hours before midnight.

Few would ever demand our services past midnight or prior to dawn, but were there such denizens of the night, an ESL teacher would fight exhaustion and keep teaching till his last coherent thought fades into unconscious slumber.

Those with intimate companions seek solace and silence in the arms of amnesia.

Those without such comforts seek release in other ways.

Some to the quiet dullness of apartment hovels we laughingly call home.

Others when propriety allows to the taverns they hie.

Truth of character lies at the bottom of a glass, coaxed cleverly from the neck of a bottle, spoken loudly from the courage of uninhibited spirits.

We are not alcoholics, but not for lack of trying.

Men who teach are frustrated by women who share the profession, such obstinate virtue, minds of metal encased in bodies made for sin.

We speak about the unspeakable, professing love for the unlovable, draining hope’s last drop from transparent glasses.

We wish to quarrel but that requires effort.

So we shout and we joke and we drink and the smokers smoke and the non-smokers choke and we make love to the moment.

We stagger home aware of our deficiencies and return to anonymous apartments and invisible lives.

The expat ESL teacher knows that the natives make less and work more, but we grumble nonetheless ungratefully.

Oh, woe is the world of the wandering scholar!

Oh, weep for the women who wonder why we are driven so!

We seek to belong where we do not and flee from the places where we once did.

We tell ourselves we are happy.

Occasionally our lies convince even ourselves.

Morning comes and the bones ache and the eyes itch and the mouth is dry.

Another day is dawning.

I recall what words of wisdom remain from the haze of the evening.

We spoke of colleagues, both loved and loathed.

We spoke of students, the delightful and the despised.

We spoke of Eskişehir and sought to justify our presence here.

We spoke of what it isn’t to find feeling for what it is.

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir

It is neither Istanbul nor Ankara with their crowds and their cost and their cacophony of chaos and cars.

Above: Istanbul

Above: Ankara

Tourists rarely come here, for what might attract them is quickly seen and forgotten.

It is neither Kars nor Konya where conservatives demand lip service over the freedom of thought and expression that is every person’s due, for Eskişehir is a university town that leans liberally left.

Above: Kars

In Konya, women scurry.

Above: Konya

In Eskişehir, women strut.

Above: Bridge over Porsuk River in Eskişehir

Away from the dark thoughts of the drinkers of the Dublin.

Morning has broken and dawn recalls the places that once were familiar.

And for reasons not immediately clear I think of Kreuzlingen, Switzerland…..

Above: Kreuzlingen

Kreuzlingen, Switzerland, Thursday 30 December 2021

First, let me explain myself.

I believe that travel should bring people together.

We travel to have enlightening experiences, to meet inspirational people, to be stimulated, to learn, to grow.

Travel humbles you, enriches you, shapes your world view, and sometimes activates you into doing your part in making the world a better place for everyone.

We better ourselves by observing others.

We learn about ourselves by observing others and by challenging ourselves to see beyond our individual selves.

By learning from our travels and bringing these ideas home, we make our homes even stronger.

With thoughtful travel comes powerful lessons.

We need to travel purposefully, to learn with an open mind, to consider new solutions to old problems, to come home and look at ourselves more honestly, and help our society confront its challenges more wisely.

I have been back in Switzerland two days and I am already ready to leave, for I share the sentiments that Lord Byron once did:

Switzerland is a cursed, selfish, swinish country of brutes in the most romantic region of the world.

Above: Lord Byron (1788 – 1824)

And of the places in this land that reflect the character of the Swiss without the romance of their geography, Kreuzlingen is the epitome of what I dislike the most here.

Above: Kreuzlingen

Kreuzlingen is a municipality in the canton of Thurgau in northeastern Switzerland.

It is the second-largest city of the canton (after Frauenfeld, the cantonal capital) with a population of about 22,000.

Together with the adjoining city of Konstanz (Constance) just across the border in Germany, Kreuzlingen is part of the largest conurbation on the Bodensee (Lake Constance) with a population of almost 120,000.

And it is Kreuzlingen’s location that is both its attraction and detraction.

Above: Kreuzlingen, Switzerland and Konstanz, Germany, 1919

One never goes to Kreuzlingen.

One goes through Kreuzlingen.

Unless one has no other choice but to linger.

When I lived in Landschlacht, 15 km to the east, I would go through Kreuzlingen en route to Konstanz or Zürich.

Only sheer bloody necessity would compel me to go to Kreuzlingen.

Above: Landschlacht

I would come to Kreuzlingen to go to the gym, for a husband must remain silent about the changes in a spouse’s body as she ages, but a wife is forever vocal about her dissatisfaction to aging in her husband’s form.

I treat gyms as I do banks or government institutions.

I go through the motions but I never enjoy myself when I do.

Above: Activ Fitness, Kreuzlingen

I would come to Kreuzlingen when between jobs I sought money from social services.

Time expended was never the same as money extended.

The rudeness and aggravation associated with these monthly endurance trials darkened my foul feelings towards Kreuzlingen even further.

Above: Coat of arms of Kreuzlingen

Kreuzlingen came to be further associated with unpleasantness, for it was the closest urban centre where residents of Landschlacht could get PCR testing for the coronavirus without a hospital visit.

Folks coming into the country from abroad, such as I from Turkey, had to be PCR tested within days of their arrival on Swiss soil, regardless of whether you had been tested before you left the land you had been in.

There is the old joke about what is European heaven and what is European hell:

Heaven is where:

  • the police are British
  • the chefs Italian
  • the mechanics German
  • the lovers French
  • and everything is organized by the Swiss.

Hell is where:

  • the police are German
  • the chefs British
  • the mechanics French
  • the lovers Swiss
  • and everything is organized by the Italians.

But I don’t think a Heaven where everything is organized by the Swiss is such a divine idea, especially when the ideas of enforcement (i.e. law and order) in German-speaking Schweiz are Germanic in attitude and application.

Add to this the universal axiom that governments everywhere love to take but loathe to give.

I, in some fit of madness, married a law-abiding German woman with whom I had moved to Switzerland.

Above: Flag of Germany

She, in another type of insanity, married a cantankerous Canadian for whom rules rub him roughly.

Above: Flag of Canada

Truly, opposites attract.

So, like husbands who capitulate to their wives’ whims for the sake of peace (never found) at home, I found myself submitting, yet again, to children in medical attire thrusting a sharp pointy object up a nasal cavity until the deposited brain matter is collected and assessed for that ever fateful announcement that you too might have contracted the coronavirus.

(And Chandler Bing, of Friends fame, sarcastically remarks:

You need to stop the Q-tip when there’s resistance.“)

Above: Scene from Friends

If I have one failing (among many) in my character, it is that I always try to find something positive about everyone and every situation.

My first impressions of Kreuzlingen were negative and I have tried, truly tried, to find something, anything, positive to change my attitude towards the place.

Even now, as I grumble about it, this post is trying, still, to give a fair and balanced view of a place I find it difficult to like.

Above: Hauptstrasse, Kreuzlingen

Consider its history and you may begin to see reasons for my ever present attitude.

Konrad, Bishop of Konstanz (935 – 976) brought back from Jerusalem a fragment of the True Cross, which he presented to the hospital he had founded in the Konstanz suburb of Stadelhofen and from which it took the name of “Crucelin” which later became Crucelingen / Kreuzlingen.

Above: Gold-plated Konrad disk, Konstanz Cathedral

The name of the municipality stems from the Augustinian monastery Crucelin, later Kreuzlingen Abbey. 

It was founded in 1125 by the Bishop of Constance (Konstanz) Ulrich I.

Above: Parish church of St. Ulrich and St. Afra, once the church of the former Augustinian monastery in Kreuzlingen

In 1144 Pope Lucius II, and in 1145 Emperor Frederick Barbarossa took the monastery under their protection.

Above: Lucius II (né Gherardo Caccianemici dal Orso) (d. 1145)

Above: Stained glass image of Frederick I (Barbarossa) (1122 – 1190), Strasbourg Cathedral, France

The first monastery stood outside the city walls.

Above: Interior of St. Ulrich, Kreuzlingen

At the time of the Council of Constance (Konstanz) (1414 – 1418) the Abbot of Kreuzlingen gave shelter from 27 to 28 October 1414 to the later deposed Pope John XXIII.

Above: Council Hall, Konstanz

Baldassarre Cossa (1370 – 1419) was Pisan Antipope John XXIII (1410 – 1415) during the Western Schism (a split within the Catholic Church, lasting from 1378 to 1417, in which bishops residing in Rome and Avignon both claimed to be the true Pope, and were joined by a third line of claimants from Pisa in 1409.).

The Catholic Church regards Cossa as an Antipope, as he opposed Pope Gregory XII whom the Catholic Church now recognizes as the rightful successor of Saint Peter.

Cossa was also an opponent of Antipope Benedict XIII, who was recognized by the French bishop as legitimate Pontiff.

Cossa was born in the Kingdom of Naples.

He participated in the Council of Pisa in 1408, which sought to end the Western Schism with the election of a third alternative Pope.

In 1410, Cossa succeeded Antipope Alexander V, taking the name John XXIII.

At the instigation of Sigismund, King of the Romans, Pope John called the Council of Constance of 1413, which deposed John XXIII and Benedict XIII, accepted Gregory XII’s resignation, and elected Pope Martin V to replace them, thus ending the Schism.

John XXIII was tried for various crimes, though later accounts question the veracity of those accusations.

Towards the end of his life Cossa restored his relationship with the Church and was made Cardinal Bishop of Frascati by Pope Martin V.

Above: John XXIII

When asked by Emperor Frederick to also join the Swabian League, the Eidgenossen (Switzerland) flatly refused:

They saw no reason to join an alliance designed to further Habsburg interests, and they were wary of this new, relatively closely knit and powerful alliance that had arisen on their northern frontier.

Furthermore, they resented the strong aristocratic element in the Swabian League, so different from their own organization, which had grown over the last 200 years liberating themselves from precisely such an aristocratic rule.

Above: Flag of the Old Swiss Confederacy (1300 – 1798)

On the Swabian (southern Germany, present day Württemberg) side, similar concerns existed.

For the common people in Swabia, the independence and freedom of the Eidgenossen was a powerful and attractive role model.

Many a baron in southern Swabia feared that his own subjects might revolt and seek adherence to the Swiss Confederacy.

Above: Coat of arms of the Counts of Habsburg

These fears were not entirely without foundation:

The Swiss had begun to form alliances north of the Rhine River, concluding a first treaty with Schaffhausen in 1454 and then also treaties with cities as far away as Rottweil (Germany)(1463) and Mulhouse (France)(1466).

Above: Schaffhausen

Above: Rottweil

Above: Images of Mulhouse

The city of Konstanz and its Bishop were caught in the middle between these two blocks:

Above: Rheintorturm (Rhine Gate Tower), Konstanz

Above: Coat of arms of the Bishop of Konstanz (1155 – 1803)

They held possessions in Swabia, but the city also still exercised the high justice over Thurgau, where the Swiss had assumed the low justice since its annexation in 1460.

Above: Coat of arms of Baden – Württemberg, formerly of the Duchy of Swabia

Above: Flag of Canton Thurgau

The foundation of the Swabian League prompted the Swiss city states of Zürich and Bern to propose accepting Konstanz into the Swiss Confederacy.

Above: Zürich

Above: Bern

The negotiations failed, though, due to the opposition of the founding cantons of the Confederacy and Canton Uri in particular.

The split jurisdiction over Thurgau was the cause of many quarrels between the city and the Confederacy.

In 1495, one such disagreement was answered by a punitive expedition of soldiers of Uri.

Konstanz had to pay the sum of 3,000 guilders to make them retreat and cease their plundering.

(Thurgau was a territory of the Swiss Confederacy, and Uri was one of the cantons involved in its administration.)

Above: Flag of Canton Uri

Konstanz joined the Swabian League as a full member on 3 November 1498.

Although this did not yet definitively define the position of the city — during the Reformation, it would be allied again with Zürich and Bern, and only after the defeat of the Schmalkaldic League in 1548 its close connections to the Eidgenossenschaft would be finally severed — it was another factor contributing to the growing estrangement between the Swiss and the Swabians.

Above: Schmalkaldic League military treaty, 1536

The Schmalkaldic League was a military alliance of Lutheran princes within the Holy Roman Empire during the mid-16th century.

Although created for religious motives soon after the start of the Reformation, its members later came to have the intention that the League would replace the Holy Roman Empire as their focus of political allegiance.

While it was not the first alliance of its kind, unlike previous formations, the Schmalkaldic League had a substantial military to defend its political and religious interests.

It received its name from the town of Schmalkalden, Thuringia, Germany.

Above: Schmalkalden

The competition between Swiss (Reisläufer) and Swabian (Landsknechte) mercenaries, who both fought in armies throughout Europe, sometimes opposing each other on the battlefield, sometimes competing for contracts, intensified.

Above: Swiss mercenaries crossing the Alps

Above: Landsknechte, 1530

Contemporary chronicles agree in their reports that the Swiss, who were considered the best soldiers in Europe at the time after their victories in the Burgundian Wars (1474 – 1477), were subject to many taunts and abuses by the Landsknechte.

Above: Territories of the house of Valois-Burgundy during the reign of Charles the Bold (1433 – 1477) (r. 1467 – 1477)

They were called Kuhschweizer (Swiss cow herders) and ridiculed in other ways.

Such insults were neither given nor taken lightly, and frequently led to bloodshed.

Indeed, such incidents would contribute to prolong the Swabian War itself by triggering skirmishes and looting expeditions that the military commands of neither side had ever wanted or planned.

Above:  The first major battle of the Swabian War, Battle of Hard, Austria, 20 February 1499

A large attack of the Swabian League took place on 11 April 1499:

Swabian troops occupied and plundered some villages on the southern shore of the Bodensee, just south of Konstanz.

The expedition ended in a shameful defeat and open flight when the Swiss soldiers, who had their main camp just a few miles south at Schwaderloh, arrived and met the Swabians in the Battle of Schwaderloh.

The Swabians lost more than 1,000 soldiers – 130 from the city of Konstanz alone.

The Swiss captured their heavy equipment, including their artillery.

Above: Battle of Schwaderloh, 11 April 1499




The continued defeats of both Habsburg and Swabian armies made King Maximilian, who had hitherto been occupied in the Netherlands, travel to Konstanz and assume the leadership of the operations himself.

He declared an imperial ban over the Swiss Confederacy in an attempt to gain wider support for the operation amongst the German princes by declaring the conflict an “imperial war“.

However, this move had no success.

Above: Maximilian I (1459 – 1519)

The refusal of the military leaders of the Swabian League to withdraw troops from the northern front to send them to the Grisons as Maximilian had demanded made the King return to the Bodensee.

Above: Flag of Canton Grisons / Graubünden

The differences between the Swabians, who preferred to strike in the north, and the King, who still hoped to convince them to help him win the struggle in the Val Müstair, led to a pause in the hostilities.

Troops were assembled at Konstanz, but an attack did not occur.

Until July, nothing of significance happened along the whole front.

Above: Val Müstair

By mid-July, Maximilian and the Swabian leaders suddenly were under pressure from their own troops.

In the west, where there lay an army under the command of Count Heinrich von Fürstenberg, a large contingent of mercenaries from Flanders and many knights threatened to leave as they had not received their pay.

The foot soldiers of the Swabian troops also complained:

Most of them were peasants and preferred to go home and bring in the harvest.

Maximilian was forced to act.

An attack by sea across the Bodensee on Rheineck and Rorschach on 21 July 1499 was one of the few successful Swabian operations.

The small Swiss detachment was taken by surprise, the villages plundered and burnt.

Above: Rheineck, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

Above: Rorschach, Canton St. Gallen, Switzerland

A much larger attack of an army of about 16,000 soldiers in the west on Dornach, however, met a quickly assembled but strong Swiss army.

In the Battle of Dornach on 22 July 1499, the Swabian and mercenary troops suffered a heavy defeat after a long and hard battle.

Their general Heinrich von Fürstenberg fell early in the fight, about 3,000 Swabian and 500 Swiss soldiers died, and the Swabians lost all of their artillery. 

Again.

Above: Battle of Dornach, Switzerland

A major problem for the Swiss was the lack of any unified command.

The cantonal contingents only took orders from their own leaders.

Complaints of insubordination were common.

The Swiss Diet had to adopt this resolution on 11 March 1499:

Every canton shall impress upon its soldiers that when the Confederates are under arms together, each one of them, whatever his canton, shall obey the officers of the others.

Above: Flag of modern Switzerland

The Swabian and Habsburg armies had suffered far higher human losses than the Swiss, and were also short on artillery, after repeatedly having lost their equipment to the Swiss.

The Swiss also had no desire to prolong the war further.

Above: Theatre of the Swabian War

Finally, Maximilian and the Swiss signed the Peace of Basel on 22 September 1499.

After the Swabian War (1499), in the Peace of Basel, the Duke of Milan ceded the sovereignty of Thurgau to the Swiss.

Above: Negotiations for the Peace of Basel in 1499 at the end of the Swabian War

This so angered the inhabitants of Konstanz that they burned down the Abbey of Kreuzlingen.

The city was compelled to rebuild the Abbey.

Above: Aftermath of the 3rd Kreuzlingen Abbey fire, 20 July 1963

On 17 April 1509, Abbot Peter I von Babenberg (1498 – 1545) was able to rededicate the new church.

Above: Interior of St. Ulrich, Kreuzlingen

During the Thirty Years’ War (1618 – 1648), despite the neutrality of the Swiss, a Swedish army entered Thurgau via Stein am Rhein, advanced on Kreuzlingen and besieged Konstanz unsuccessfully, losing several thousand men.

Above: Flag of Sweden

Above: Stein am Rhein

When on 2 October 1633, the troops left Kreuzlingen, the people of Konstanz blamed the monks for having supported the enemy and destroyed the Abbey a second time.

It was now decided that the monastery should not be rebuilt right up against the walls of Konstanz, but should be removed from it by not less than the distance of a cannon shot.

Above: Interior of St. Ulrich, Kreuzlingen

During the Protestant Reformation (1516 – 1648) in Switzerland, both the Catholic and emerging Reformed parties sought to swing the subject territories, such as Canton Thurgau, to their side.

Above: Religious map of Switzerland, 1536

In 1524, in an incident that resonated across Switzerland, local peasants occupied the Cloister of Ittingen in Thurgau, driving out the monks, destroying documents, and devastating the wine cellar.

Above: Ittingen Charterhouse

Between 1526 and 1531, most of Thurgau’s population adopted the new Reformed faith spreading from Zürich.

Zürich’s defeat in the War of Kappel (1531) ended Reformed predominance.

Instead, the First Peace of Kappel protected both Catholic and Reformed worship, though the provisions of the treaty generally favored the Catholics, who also made up a majority among the seven ruling cantons.

Religious tensions over Thurgau were an important background to the First War of Villmergen (1656), during which Zürich briefly occupied Thurgau.

Above: Kappel am Albis, Canton Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Kreuzlingen Cloister, 1633

At the beginning of the 19th century, today’s centre of Kreuzlingen was largely arable land, meadowland and vineyards. 

Around the monastery stood 13 houses.

With the reorganization of Europe, Kreuzlingen became a border region. 

The first customs house was built in 1818. 

The first steamboats that operated on the Bodensee from 1824 and the construction of the railway lines to Romanshorn (1871) and Etzwilen (1875) attracted trade and industry.

Above: Kreuzlingen, 1840

Above: Kreuzlingen Bahnhof (train station)

Until the First World War (1914 – 1918) Kreuzlingen was a kind of suburb of Konstanz. 

Industry in Kreuzlingen was also almost exclusively in the hands of German entrepreneurs. 

It was only after the border was closed during the War that Kreuzlingen became more independent.

Above: German – Swiss border (1914 – 1918)

During World War I (1914 – 1918) and World War II (1939 – 1945) Switzerland maintained armed neutrality, and was not invaded by its neighbors, in part because of its topography, much of which is mountainous.

Consequently, it was of considerable interest to belligerent states as the scene for diplomacy, espionage, and commerce, as well as being a safe haven for refugees.

Above: Physical map of Switzerland (in German)

In The War in the Air – an apocalyptic prediction of the coming global conflict, published in 1903, eleven years before the actual outbreak of war – H.G. Wells assumed that Switzerland would join the coming war and fight on the side of Germany.

Above: Herbert George Wells (1866 – 1946)

Wells is known to have visited Switzerland in 1903, a visit which inspired his book A Modern Utopia, and his assessment of Swiss inclinations might have been inspired by what he heard from Swiss people in that visit.

Switzerland maintained a state of armed neutrality during the First World War.

Above: Images of World War 1 (1914 – 1918)

However, with two of the Central Powers (Germany and Austria-Hungary) and two of the Entente Powers (France and Italy) all sharing borders and populations with Switzerland, neutrality proved difficult.

Above: Europe, 1914

Under the Schlieffen Plan, the German General Staff had been open to the possibility of trying to outflank the French fortifications by marching through Switzerland in violation of its neutrality, although the plan’s eventual executor Helmuth von Moltke the Younger selected Belgium instead due to Switzerland’s mountainous topography and the disorganized state of the Belgian Armed Forces.

Above: Alfred von Schlieffen (1833 – 1913)

Above: Helmuth von Moltke the Younger (1848 – 1916)

Above: Flag of Belgium

From December 1914 until the spring of 1918, Swiss troops were deployed in the Jura along the French border over concern that the trench war might spill into Switzerland.

Of lesser concern was the Italian border, but troops were also stationed in the Unterengadin region of Graubünden.

Above: Swiss officers’ barracks, Umbrail Pass, Swiss Italian border

While the German-speaking majority in Switzerland generally favored the Central Powers, the French- and, later, Italian-speaking populations sided with the Entente Powers, which would cause internal conflict in 1918.

Above: Linguistic map of Switzerland, 2016 – German (62.8%) (pink) / French (22.9%) (purple) / Italian (8.2%) (blue) / Romansh (0.5%) (yellow)

However, the country managed to keep out of the War, although it was blockaded by the Allies and therefore suffered some difficulties.

Nevertheless, because Switzerland was centrally located, neutral, and generally undamaged, the War allowed the growth of the Swiss banking industry

Above: Mont Cervin Palace, Zermatt, Switzerland – A hub of tourism, many private banks service the city and maintain underground bunkers and storage facilities for gold at the foothills of the Swiss Alps.

For the same reasons, Switzerland became a haven for foreign refugees and revolutionaries.

There were a number of Swiss neutrality scandals during the war, when certain people within Switzerland were found to have been favouring one side or the other.

One of the worst was the “two colonels” affair.

In February 1916, two senior Swiss intelligence officers were found to have been passing copies of intelligence reports and other sensitive material to the German and Austrian military attaches in Switzerland for nearly a year.

This included signals sent between foreign embassies in Switzerland and their home governments, which the Swiss had intercepted.

The two officers defended themselves by saying that no secret information had been given away, and that information had been received from the Central Powers in return.

Although they were sacked, they received no other punishment.

Above: Colonel Carl Egli

Above: Colonel Maurice de Wattenwyl

Being neutral, Switzerland was also a place where exiles could go.

Czech and Lithuanian national councils were established in Switzerland during the War.

Above: Flag of the Czech Republic

Above: Flag of Lithuania

In 1914, both these countries were part of a larger empire (Austria-Hungary and Russia respectively) and these national councils sought independence.

Above: Coat of arms of Austria – Hungary (1867 – 1915)

Above: Coat of arms of Imperial Russia (1883 – 1917)

King Constantine of Greece went into exile in Switzerland in June 1917.  

Above: Constantine I (1868 – 1923)

After the Great War, the Austrian Imperial family fled to Switzerland. 

Following the organization of the army in 1907 and military expansion in 1911, the Swiss Army consisted of about 250,000 men with an additional 200,000 in supporting roles.

Both European alliance-systems took the size of the Swiss military into account in the years prior to 1914, especially in the Schlieffen Plan.

Following the declarations of war in late July 1914, on 1 August 1914, Switzerland mobilized its army.

By 7 August the newly appointed general Ulrich Wille had about 220,000 men under his command.

By 11 August Wille had deployed much of the army along the Jura border with France, with smaller units deployed along the eastern and southern borders.

Above: Ulrich Wille (1848 – 1925)

This remained unchanged until May 1915 when Italy entered the war on the Entente side, at which point troops were deployed to the Unterengadin valley, Val Müstair and along the southern border.

Once it became clear that the Allies and the Central Powers would respect Swiss neutrality, the number of troops deployed began to drop.

After September 1914, some soldiers were released to return to their farms and to vital industries.

By November 1916 the Swiss had only 38,000 men in the army.

This number increased during the winter of 1916 – 1917 to over 100,000 as a result of a proposed French attack that would have crossed Switzerland.

When this attack failed to occur the army began to shrink again.

Because of widespread workers’ strikes, at the end of the War the Swiss army had shrunk to only 12,500 men.

During the War “belligerents” crossed the Swiss borders about 1,000 times, with some of these incidents occurring around the Dreisprachen Piz (Three Languages Peak), near the Stevio Pass.

Switzerland had an outpost and a hotel (which was destroyed as it was used by the Austrians) on the peak.

During the War, fierce battles were fought in the ice and snow of the area, with gunfire coming on to Swiss territory.

The three nations made an agreement not to fire over Swiss territory, which jutted out between Austria (to the north) and Italy (to the south).

Instead they could fire down the pass, as Swiss territory was around the peak.

In one incident, a Swiss soldier was killed at his outpost on Dreisprachen Piz by Italian gunfire.

Above: Stelvio Pass

During the fighting, Switzerland became a haven for many politicians, artists, pacifists, and thinkers.

Bern, Zürich and Geneva became centres of debate and discussion.

Above: Geneva

In Zürich, two very different anti-war groups, the Bolsheviks and the Dadaists, would bring lasting changes to the world.

Above: Zürich during WW1

The Bolsheviks were a faction of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party, centered around Vladimir Lenin.

Following the outbreak of the War, Lenin was stunned when the large Social Democratic parties of Europe (at that time predominantly Marxist in orientation) supported their various respective countries’ war efforts.

Lenin, believing that the peasants and workers of the proletariat were fighting for their class enemies, adopted the stance that what he described as an “imperialist war” ought to be turned into a civil war between the classes.

He left Austria for neutral Switzerland in 1914 following the outbreak of the War and remained active in Switzerland until 1917.

Following the 1917 February Revolution in Russia and the abdication of Tsar Nicholas II, he left Switzerland on a sealed train to Petrograd, where he would shortly lead the 1917 October Revolution in Russia.

Above: Vladimir Lenin (1870 – 1924)

Above: Nicholas II (1868 – 1918)

While the Dada art movement was also an anti-war organization, Dadaists used art to oppose all wars.

The founders of the movement had left Germany and Romania to escape the destruction of the War.

Above: Grand opening of the first Dada movement in Berlin, 5 June 1920

At the Cabaret Voltaire in Zürich they put on performances expressing their disgust with the War and with the interests that inspired it.

By some accounts Dada coalesced on 6 October 1916 at the Cabaret.

The artists used abstraction to fight against the social, political, and cultural ideas of that time that they believed had caused the War.

Dadaists viewed abstraction as the result of a lack of planning and of logical thought-processes.

When World War I ended in 1918, most of the Zürich Dadaists returned to their home countries, and some began Dada activities in other cities.

Above: Cabaret Voltaire, Zürich

In 1917, Switzerland’s neutrality came into question when the Grimm – Hoffmann Affair erupted. 

Robert Grimm, a Swiss socialist politician, travelled to Russia as an activist to negotiate a separate peace between Russia and Germany, in order to end the war on the Eastern Front in the interests of socialism and pacifism.

Misrepresenting himself as a diplomat and an actual representative of the Swiss government, he made progress but had to admit to fraud and return home when the Allies found out about the proposed peace deal.

Above: Robert Grimm (1881 – 1958)

The Allies were placated by the resignation of Arthur Hoffmann, the Swiss Federal Councillor who had supported Grimm but had not consulted his colleagues on the initiative.

Above: Arthur Hoffmann (1857 – 1927)

During the War, Switzerland accepted 68,000 British, French and German wounded prisoners of war (POWs) for recovery in mountain resorts.

To be transferred the wounded had to have a disability that would negate their further military service or have been interned over 18 months with deteriorating mental health.

The wounded were transferred from POW camps unable to cope with the number of wounded and sat out the war in Switzerland.

Above: German POWs arriving in Davos, Switzerland, 1916

The transfer was agreed between the warring powers and organised by the Red Cross.

Above: Logo of the Red Cross

In 1934, the Swiss Banking Act was passed.

Above: The federal law officially codified hundreds of years of banking secrecy in Switzerland. 
The law was announced in front of the Three Confederates statue to the Swiss public and international community in the Federal Palace of Switzerland during a 1934 special assembly.

This allowed for anonymous numbered bank accounts, in part to allow Germans (including Jews) to hide or protect their assets from seizure by the newly established Third Reich.

Above: Credit Suisse, Paradeplatz, Zürich – Many banks in Switzerland and other off-shore financial centres, offer the usage of numbered bank accounts for an extra degree of banking secrecy.

Above: Flag of the Third Reich / Nazi Germany (1935 – 1945)

In 1936, Wilhelm Gustloff was assassinated at Davos.

He was the head of the Nazi Party’s “Auslands-Organisation” in Switzerland.

Above: Wilhelm Gustloff (1895 – 1936)

The Swiss government refused to extradite the alleged assassin David Frankfurter to Germany.

Frankfurter was sentenced to 18 years in prison but was pardoned in 1946.

Above: (standing) David Frankfurter (1909 – 1982)

As European tension grew in the 1930s, the Swiss began to rethink their political and military situation.

The Social Democratic Party abandoned their revolutionary and anti-military stances, and soon the country began to rearm for war.

Above: Logo of the Social Democratic Party

Farmers, Traders and Citizens’ Party (BGB) Federal Councillor Rudolf Minger, predicting war would come in 1939, led the rebuilding of the Swiss Army.

Starting in 1936, he secured a larger defence budget and started a war bond system.

The army was restructured into smaller, better equipped divisions and boot camps for conscripts was extended to three months of instruction.

In 1937, a war economy cell was established.

Households were encouraged to keep a two-month supply of food and basic necessities.

Above: Rudolf Minger (1881 – 1955)

In 1938, Foreign Minister Giuseppe Motta withdrew Switzerland from the League of Nations, returning the country to its traditional form of neutrality.

Above: Giuseppe Motta (1871 – 1940)

Above: Flag of the League of Nations (1920 – 1946)

Actions were also taken to prove Switzerland’s independent national identity and unique culture from the surrounding Fascist powers.

This policy was known as Geistige Landesverteidigung (spiritual national defence).

Above: “On Guard” by Hans Brandenberger

In 1937, the government opened the Museum of Federal Charters.

Increased use of Swiss German coincided with a national referendum that made Romansh a national language in 1938, a move designed to counter Benito Mussolini’s attempts to incite Italian nationalism in the southern Grisons and Ticino cantons.

Above: Benito Mussolini (1883 – 1945)

In December of that year in a government address, Catholic Conservative Councillor Philipp Etter urged a defence of Swiss culture. 

Geistige Landesverteidigung subsequently exploded, being featured on stamps, in children’s books, and through official publications.

Above: Philip Etter (1891 – 1977)

At the outbreak of World War II in 1939, Switzerland immediately began to mobilize for a possible invasion.

The transition into wartime was smooth and caused less controversy than in 1914.

The country was fully mobilized in only three days.

Parliament quickly selected the 61-year-old career soldier Henri Guisan to be General.

By 3 September, 430,000 combat troops and 210,000 in support services, 10,000 of whom were women, had been mobilized, though most of these were sent home during the Phoney War.

At its highest point, 850,000 soldiers were mobilized.

Above: Henri Guisan

During the War, under the pan-Germanist and antidemocratic Neuordnung (New Order) doctrine, detailed invasion plans were drawn up by the German military command, such as Operation Tannenbaum (Christmas tree), but Switzerland was never attacked.

Switzerland was able to remain independent through a combination of military deterrence, economic concessions to Germany and good fortune as larger events during the War delayed an invasion.

Above: German plans to invade Switzerland

The New Order (Neuordnung) of Europe was the political order which Nazi Germany wanted to impose on the conquered areas under its dominion.

The establishment of the Neuordnung had already begun long before the start of World War II, but was publicly proclaimed by Adolf Hitler in 1941:

The year 1941 will be, I am convinced, the historical year of a great European New Order!

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

Among other things, it entailed the creation of a pan-German racial state, structured according to Nazi ideology, to ensure the existence of a perceived Aryan – Nordic master race, consolidate a massive territorial expansion into Central and Eastern Europe through colonization by German settlers, achieve the physical annihilation of Jews, Slavs, (especially Poles and Russians), Roma (“gypsies“), and others considered to be “unworthy of life“, as well as the extermination, expulsion or enslavement of most of the Slavic peoples and others regarded as “racially inferior“.

Nazi Germany’s desire for aggressive territorial expansionism was one of the most important causes of World War II.

Historians are still divided as to its ultimate goals, some believing that it was to be limited to Nazi German domination of Europe, while others maintain that it was a springboard for eventual world conquest and the establishment of a world government under German control.

The Führer gave expression to his unshakable conviction that the Reich will be the master of all Europe.

We shall yet have to engage in many fights, but these will undoubtedly lead to most wonderful victories.

From there on the way to world domination is practically certain.

Whoever dominates Europe will thereby assume the leadership of the world.

—  Joseph Goebbels, Reich Minister of Propaganda, 8 May 1943

Above: Joseph Goebbels (1897 – 1945)

Attempts by the Swiss Nazi Party to effect a unification with Germany failed, largely as a result of Switzerland’s sense of national identity and tradition of democracy and civil liberties.

The Swiss press criticized the Third Reich, often infuriating its leadership.

In turn, Berlin denounced Switzerland as a medieval remnant and its people renegade Germans.

Swiss military strategy was changed from one of static defence at the borders to a strategy of attrition and withdrawal to strong, well-stockpiled positions high in the Alps known as the National Redoubt.

This controversial strategy was essentially one of deterrence.

The idea was to render the cost of invading too high.

During an invasion, the Swiss Army would cede control of the economic heartland and population centres but retain control of crucial rail links and passes in the National Redoubt.

Above: Plan of the defence lines of the National Redoubt

Switzerland was a base for espionage by both sides in the conflict and often mediated communications between the Axis and Allied powers by serving as a protecting power.

In 1942, the United States Office of Strategic Services (OSS) was established in Bern.

Through the efforts of Allen Dulles, the first US intelligence service in Western Europe was created.

Above: Allen Dulles (1893 – 1969)

During the allied invasion of Italy, the OSS in Switzerland guided tactical efforts for the takeover of Salerno and the islands of Corsica and Sardinia.

Above: Logo of the OSS (1942 – 1945)

Above: Allied troops, Salerno, Italy, 1943

Despite the public and political attitudes in Switzerland, some higher-ranking officers within the Swiss Army had pro-Nazi sympathies: notably Colonel Arthur Fonjallaz and Colonel Eugen Bircher, who led the Schweizerischer Vaterländischer Verband.

Above: Arthur Fonjallaz (1875 – 1944)

Above: Eugen Bircher (1882 – 1956)

In Letters to Suzanne (French: Lettres à Suzanne, Lausanne, Switzerland, 1949), the Swiss journalist Léon Savary retrospectively denounced in this sense “the occult influence of Hitlerism on the Swiss people during the Second World War, which they were not conscious of being under“.

Above: Léon Savary (1895 – 1968)

Nazi Germany repeatedly violated Swiss airspace.

During the Battle of France in 1940, German aircraft violated Swiss airspace at least 197 times. 

Above: Images of the Battle of France (10 May – 25 June 1940)

In several air incidents, the Swiss shot down 11 Luftwaffe aircraft between 10 May and 17 June 1940, while suffering the loss of three of their own aircraft.

Germany protested diplomatically on 5 June and with a second note on 19 June which contained explicit threats. 

Hitler was especially furious when he saw that German equipment was used to shoot down German pilots.

He said they would respond “in another manner“. 

On 20 June, the Swiss air force was ordered to stop intercepting planes violating Swiss airspace.

Swiss fighters began instead to force intruding aircraft to land at Swiss airfields. 

Anti-aircraft units still operated.

Above: Logo of the Luftwaffe

Later, Hitler and Hermann Göring sent saboteurs to destroy Swiss airfields, but they were captured by Swiss troops before they could cause any damage. 

Skirmishes between German and Swiss troops took place on the northern border of Switzerland throughout the war.

Above: Hermann Goering (1893 – 1946)

Allied aircraft intruded on Swiss airspace throughout World War II.

In total, 6,304 Allied aircraft violated Swiss airspace during the war.

Some damaged Allied bombers returning from raids over Italy and Germany would intentionally violate Swiss airspace, preferring internment by the Swiss to becoming POWs.

Over a hundred Allied aircraft and their crews were interned in this manner.

They were subsequently put up in various ski resorts that had been emptied from lack of tourists due to the war and held until hostilities ended.

At least 940 American airmen attempted to escape into France after the Allied invasion of Normandy in June 1944 but Swiss authorities intercepted 183 internees.

Above: Landing at Omaha Beach, Normandy, France, 6 June 1944

Over 160 of these airmen were incarcerated in a Swiss prison camp known as Wauwilermoos, which was located near Lucerne (Luzern) and commanded by André Béguin, a pro-Nazi Swiss officer.

Above: Aerial photograph of the Wauwilermoos camp area in mid-1944

Above: André Béguin

The American internees remained in Wauwilermoos until November 1944 when the US State Department lodged protests against the Swiss government and eventually secured their release. 

Above: Wauwilermoos camp in late 1944

The American military attaché in Bern warned Marcel Pilet – Golaz, Swiss foreign minister in 1944, that “the mistreatment inflicted on US aviators could lead to ‘navigation errors’ during bombing raids over Germany“.

Above: Marcel Pilet – Golaz (1889 – 1958)

Switzerland, surrounded by Axis-controlled territory, also suffered from Allied bombings during the War – most notably from the accidental bombing of Schaffhausen by American aircraft on 1 April 1944.

Above: Schaffhausen, inscription on the bay window:
Destroyed by airmen 1 April 1944, rebuilt 1944/1945

It was mistaken for Ludwigshafen am Rhein, a German town 284 kilometres (176 mi) away.

Above: Ludwigshafen am Rhein, Germany

Forty people were killed and over fifty buildings destroyed, among them a group of small factories producing anti-aircraft shells, ball bearings and Bf 109 parts for Germany.

The bombing limited much of the leniency the Swiss had shown toward Allied airspace violations.

Eventually, the problem became so bad that they declared a zero-tolerance policy for violation by either Axis or Allied aircraft and authorized attacks on American aircraft.

Victims of these mistaken bombings were not limited to Swiss civilians, but included the often confused American aircrews, shot down by the Swiss fighters as well as several Swiss fighters shot down by American airmen.

In February 1945, 18 civilians were killed by Allied bombs dropped over Stein am Rhein, Vals and Rafz.

Above: Bombing of Stein am Rhein, 22 February 1945

Above: Bombing of Rafz, 22 February 1945

Arguably the most notorious incident came on 4 March 1945, when Basel and Zürich were accidentally bombed by American aircraft.

The attack on Basel’s railway station led to the destruction of a passenger train, but no casualties were reported.

Above: Basel Railway Station, 1938

A B-24 Liberator dropped its bomb load over Zürich, destroying two buildings and killing five civilians.

Above: Oberstrass, Zürich, 4 March 1945

The crew believed that they were attacking Freiburg im Breisgau in Germany.

Above: Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

As John Helmreich points out, the pilot and navigator, in choosing a target of opportunity, “missed the marshalling yard they were aiming for, missed the city they were aiming for, and even missed the country they were aiming for“.

The Swiss, although somewhat skeptical, reacted by treating these violations of their neutrality as “accidents“.

The United States was warned that single aircraft would be forced down and their crews would still be allowed to seek refuge, while bomber formations in violation of airspace would be intercepted.

While American politicians and diplomats tried to minimize the political damage caused by these incidents, others took a more hostile view.

Some senior commanders argued that as Switzerland was “full of German sympathizers“, it deserved to be bombed.

General Henry H. Arnold, Commanding General of the US Army Air Forces, even suggested that it was the Germans themselves who were flying captured Allied planes over Switzerland in an attempt to gain a propaganda victory.

Above: Henry H. Arnold (1886 – 1950)

From 1943 onwards Switzerland stopped American and British aircraft, mainly bombers, overflying Switzerland on nine occasions, six times by Swiss Air Force fighters and nine by flak. 

Thirty-six Allied airmen were killed.

On 1 October 1943 the first American bomber was shot down near Bad Ragaz, with only three men surviving.

Above: Main square, Bad Ragaz

The officers were interned in Davos and the airmen in Adelboden.

Above: Images of Davos

Above: Aerial view of Adelboden

The representative of the US military intelligence group based in Bern, Barnwell Legge (a US military attaché to Switzerland), instructed the soldiers not to flee, but most of them thought it to be a diplomatic joke and gave no regard to his request.

Above: Barnwell Legge (1891 – 1949)

As a neutral state bordering Germany, Switzerland was relatively easy to reach for refugees from the Nazis.

Switzerland’s refugee laws, especially with respect to Jews fleeing Germany, were strict and have caused controversy since the end of World War II.

From 1933 until 1944 asylum for refugees could only be granted to those who were under personal threat owing to their political activities only.

It did not include those who were under threat due to race, religion or ethnicity.

Above: The Star of David, a symbol of Judaism

On the basis of this definition, Switzerland granted asylum to only 644 people between 1933 and 1945.

Of these, 252 cases were admitted during the war.

All other refugees were admitted by the individual cantons and were granted different permits, including a “tolerance permit” that allowed them to live in the canton but not to work.

Over the course of the war, Switzerland interned 300,000 refugees.

Of these, 104,000 were foreign troops interned according to the Rights and Duties of Neutral Powers outlined in the Hague Conventions.

Above: Images of The Hague, Netherlands

The rest were foreign civilians and were either interned or granted tolerance or residence permits by the cantonal authorities.

Refugees were not allowed to hold jobs.

Of the refugees, 60,000 were civilians escaping persecution by the Nazis.

Of these 60,000, 27,000 were Jews.

Between 10,000 and 24,000 Jewish civilian refugees were refused entry.

These refugees were refused entry on the asserted claim of dwindling supplies.

Of those refused entry, a Swiss government representative said:

Our little lifeboat is full.

At the beginning of the war, Switzerland had a Jewish population of between 18,000 and 28,000 and a total population of about 4 million.

By the end of the war, there were over 115,000 refuge-seeking people of all categories in Switzerland, representing the maximum number of refugees at any one time.

Above: Entry into the Swiss Jewish Museum, Basel

Switzerland’s treatment of Jewish refugees has been criticized by scholars of the Holocaust.

In 1999 an international panel of historians declared that Switzerland was “guilty of acting as an accomplice to the Holocaust when it refused to accept many thousands of fleeing Jews, and instead sent them back to almost certain annihilation at the hands of the Nazis“.

Above: Selection of Hungarian Jews on the ramp at Auschwitz II – Birkenau in German-occupied Poland, around May 1944.
Jews were sent either to work or to the gas chamber.

Switzerland also acted as a refuge for Allied POWs who escaped, including those from Colditz.

Above: Colditz Castle, Germany

In 1939, the Service of Intellectual Assistance to Prisoners of War (SIAP) was created by the International Bureau of Education (IBE), a Geneva-based international organization dedicated to educational matters.

In collaboration with the Swiss Federal Council, who initially funded the project, and the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC), the SIAP provided over half a million books to prisoners of war during World War II, and organized educational opportunities and study groups in prison camps.

Switzerland’s trade was blockaded by both the Allies and by the Axis.

Each side openly exerted pressure on Switzerland not to trade with the other.

Economic cooperation and extension of credit to the Third Reich varied according to the perceived likelihood of invasion, and the availability of other trading partners.

Above: Map of participants in World War 2:
Dark Green: Allies before the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, including colonies and occupied countries 
Light Green: Allied countries that entered the war after the attack on Pearl Harbor
Blue: Axis powers, their colonies and allies 
Grey: Neutral countries during WW2
Dark green dots represent countries that initially were neutral but during the war were annexed by the USSR
Light green dots represent countries that later in the war changed from the Axis to the Allies Blue dots represent countries either being conquered by the Axis Powers, becoming puppets of those (Vichy France and several French colonies)

Concessions reached their zenith after a crucial rail link through Vichy France was severed in 1942, leaving Switzerland completely surrounded by the Axis.

Above: Emblem of Vichy France (1940 – 1944)

Switzerland relied on trade for half of its food and essentially all of its fuel.

However, the Swiss controlled vital trans-alpine rail tunnels between Germany and Italy and possessed considerable electrical generating capacity that was relatively safe from air attack.

Switzerland’s most important exports during the war were precision machine tools, watches, jewel bearings (used in bomb sights), electricity, and dairy products.

Until 1936, the Swiss franc was the only remaining major freely convertible currency in the world.

Both the Allies and the Germans sold large amounts of gold to the Swiss National Bank.

Between 1940 and 1945, the German Reichsbank sold 1.3 billion francs (approximately 18 billion francs adjusted for inflation to 2019) worth of gold to Swiss banks in exchange for Swiss francs and other foreign currency, which were used to buy strategically important raw materials like tungsten and oil from neutral countries.

Hundreds of millions of francs’ worth of this gold was monetary gold plundered from the central banks of occupied countries.

A total of 581,000 francs’ worth of “Melmer” gold taken from Holocaust victims in eastern Europe was sold to Swiss banks.

Above: Logo of the Reichsbank (1876 – 1945)

In the 1990s, a controversy over a class action lawsuit brought in Brooklyn, New York, over Jewish assets in Holocaust era bank accounts prompted the Swiss government to commission the most recent and authoritative study of Switzerland’s interaction with the Nazi regime.

The final report by this independent panel of international scholars, known as the Bergier Commission,was issued in 2002 and also documented Switzerland’s role as a major hub for the sale and transfer of Nazi-looted art during the Second World War.

Above: Jean François Bergier (1931 – 2009)

Under pressure from the Allies, in December 1943 quotas were imposed on the importation and exportation of certain goods and foodstuffs and in October 1944 sales of munitions were halted.

However, the transit of goods by railway between Germany, Italy and occupied France continued.

North–South transit trade across Switzerland increased from 2.5 million tons before the war to nearly 6 million tons per year.

No troops or “war goods” were supposed to be transshipped.

Switzerland was concerned that Germany would cease the supply of the coal it required if it blocked coal shipments to Italy while the Allies, despite some plans to do so, took no action as they wanted to maintain good relations with Switzerland.

Between 1939 and 1945 Germany exported 10,267,000 tons of coal to Switzerland.

In 1943 these imports supplied 41% of Swiss energy requirements.

In the same period Switzerland sold electric power to Germany equivalent to 6,077,000 tons of coal.

Above: Swiss exports of arms, ammunition, and fuses (thousands of CHF) (1940 – 1944)

Swiss neutrality is one of the main principles of Switzerland’s foreign policy which dictates that Switzerland is not to be involved in armed or political conflicts between other states.

This policy is self-imposed and designed to ensure external security and promote peace.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Switzerland has the oldest policy of military neutrality in the world. 

It has not participated in a foreign war since its neutrality was established by the Treaty of Paris in 1815.

Above: Paris, France

Although the European powers (Austria, France, the United Kingdom, Portugal, Prussia, Russia, Spain and Sweden) agreed at the Congress of Vienna (Wien) in May 1815 that Switzerland should be neutral, final ratification was delayed until after Napoleon Bonaparte was defeated so that some coalition forces Reformation could invade France via Swiss territory.

Above: Images of Wien (Vienna), Österreich (Austria)

Above: Napoleon Bonaparte (1769 – 1821)

The country has a history of armed neutrality going back to the Reformation.

It has not been in a state of war internationally since 1815 and did not join the United Nations until 2002. 

Above: Flag of the United Nations

It pursues an active foreign policy and is frequently involved in peace-building processes around the world.

Above: The Matterhorn, Zermatt, Switzerland

According to Swiss President Ignazio Cassis in 2022 during a World Economic Forum (WEF) speech, the laws of neutrality for Switzerland are based on the Hague agreement principles which include:

  • no participation in wars
  • international cooperation but no membership in any military alliance
  • no provision of troops or weapons to warring parties
  • no granting of transition rights 

Above: Ignazio Cassis

The beginnings of Swiss neutrality can be dated back to the defeat of the Old Swiss Confederacy at the Battle of Marignano in September 1515, or the peace treaty the Swiss Confederacy signed with France on 12 November 1516.

Prior to this, the Swiss Confederacy had an expansionist foreign policy.

Above: François I orders his troops to stop pursuing the Swiss, Marignano, Italy, 14 September 1515

The Peace of Westphalia in 1648 was another important step in the development of Switzerland’s neutrality.

Other countries were disallowed from passing through Swiss territory.

The Confederation became legally independent from the Holy Roman Empire, even though it had been independent from the Empire de facto since 1499.

Above: City Hall, Münster, Germany – site of the signing of the Treaty of Westphalia, 24 October 1648

The 1798 invasion of Switzerland by the French First Republic culminated in the creation of a satellite state called the Helvetic Republic.

While the 1798 Swiss constitution and the 1803 Act of Mediation stated that France would protect Swiss independence and neutrality, these promises were not kept. 

With the latter act, Switzerland signed a defensive alliance treaty with France.

Above: Flag of the Helvetic Republic (Switzerland) (1798 – 1803)

During the Restoration, the Swiss Confederation’s constitution and the Treaty of Paris’s Act on the Neutrality of Switzerland affirmed Swiss neutrality.

Above: Restoration Switzerland, 1815

The dating of neutrality to 1516 is disputed by modern historians.

Prior to 1895, no historian referenced the Battle of Marignano as the beginning of neutrality.

The later backdating has to be seen in light of threats by several major powers in 1889 to rescind the neutrality granted to Switzerland in 1815.

A publication by Paul Schweizer, titled Geschichte der schweizerischen Neutralität (History of Swiss Neutrality) attempted to show that Swiss neutrality wasn’t granted by other nations, but a decision they took themselves and thus couldn’t be rescinded by others.

The later publication of the same name by Edgar Bonjour, published between 1946 and 1975, expanded on this thesis.

Following World War II, Switzerland began taking a more active role in humanitarian activities.

It joined the United Nations after a March 2002 referendum.

Ten years after Switzerland joined the UN, in recorded votes in the UN General Assembly, Switzerland occupied a middle position, siding from time to time with member states like the United States and Israel, but at other times with countries like China.

In the UN Human Rights Council Switzerland sided much more with Western countries and against countries like China and Russia.

Above: Members of the United Nations

Switzerland participated in the development of the International Code of Conduct for Private Security Service Providers, intended as an oversight mechanism of private security providers.

In September 2015, a “Federal Act on Private Security Services provided Abroad” was introduced, in order to “preserve Swiss neutrality“, as stated in its first article. 

It requires Switzerland-based private security companies to declare all operations conducted abroad, and to adhere to the Code.

Moreover, it states that no physical or moral person falling under this law can participate directly — or indirectly through the offer of private security services — in any hostilities abroad. 

In 2016, the Section of Private Security Services (SPSS), an organ of the Federal Department of Foreign Affairs in charge of the procedures defined by the new law, has received 300 approval requests.

Above: Logo of the International Code of Conduct Association

In 2011, Switzerland registered as a candidate for a seat on the UN Security Council in 2023 – 2024.

In a 2015 report requested by Parliament, the government stated that a Swiss seat on the Security Council would be “fully compatible with the principles of neutrality and with Switzerland’s neutrality policy“.

Opponents of the project, such as former ambassador Paul Widmer, consider that this seat would “put its [Switzerland] neutrality at risk“.

Above: UN Security Council Chamber, UN Headquarters, New York City, USA

A 2018 survey found that 95% of Swiss were in favor of maintaining neutrality.

In 2022, Switzerland imposed sanctions against Russia in response to the Russian invasion of Ukraine.

While Switzerland follows defined rules to remain neutral, it imposed sanctions for this “serious violation of the most fundamental norms of international law within the scope of its political room for manoeuvre“.

Above: Russian invasion of Ukraine as of 15 June 2022

Above: Flag of Russia

Above: Flag of Ukraine

According to Federal Councilor Viola Amherd, Switzerland will not allow direct shipments of arms to the war zone from or through its territory.

Above: Viola Amherd

Irrespective of the actual laws governing a neutral country, many media outlets still labelled this as a break with 500 years of Swiss neutrality.

In February 2022, Switzerland further adopted the sanctioning of Russia by the European Union and froze many Russian bank accounts.

Above: Flag of the European Union

Analysts said the move would affect the Swiss economy.

Above: Zürich – the economic centre of Switzerland

In April 2022, the Federal Department of Economic Affairs vetoed Germany’s request to re-export Swiss ammunition to Ukraine on the basis of Swiss neutrality. 

Above: Federal Palace of Switzerland, Bern

The defence ministry of Switzerland, initiated a report in May 2022 analyzing various military options, including increased cooperation and joint military exercises with NATO.

A public opinion poll from March 2022 found that 27% of those surveyed supported Switzerland joining NATO, while 67% were opposed.

Another from May 2022 indicated 33% of Swiss supported NATO membership for Switzerland.

56% supported increased ties with NATO.

Above: Logo of NATO (North Atlantic Treaty Organization)

Above: (in green) NATO members

Swiss neutrality has been questioned at times, notably regarding Switzerland’s role during the Second World War and the International Committee of the Red Cross, the looted Nazi gold (and later during Operation Gladio), its economic ties to the apartheid regime in South Africa, and more recently in the Crypto AG espionage case.

Above: Nazi gold

Above: Flag of South Africa

Operation Gladio is the codename for clandestine “stay behind” operations of armed resistance that were organized by the Western Union (WU)(1948 – 1954), and subsequently by NATO and the CIA, in collaboration with several European intelligence agencies.

Above: Flag of the Western Union (France, the UK, Belgium, Luxembourg and the Netherlands)

The operation was designed for a potential Warsaw Pact invasion and conquest of Europe.

Above: Logo of the Warsaw Pact (1955 – 1991)

Above: (in green) Members of the Warsaw Pact

Although Gladio specifically refers to the Italian branch of the NATO stay-behind organizations, “Operation Gladio” is used as an informal name for all of them.

Stay-behind operations were prepared in many NATO member countries, and some neutral countries.

Above: Flag of Italy

During the Cold War, some anti-Communist armed groups engaged in the harassment of left wing parties, torture, terrorist attacks, and massacres in countries such as Italy.

Above: The Cold War – (in blue) NATO versus (in red) Warsaw Pact – (1949 – 1990)

The role of the CIA and other intelligence organisations in Gladio — the extent of its activities during the Cold War era and any responsibility for terrorist attacks perpetrated in Italy during the “Years of Lead” (1968 – 1988) — is the subject of debate.

Above: Aftermath of the bombing at the Bologna railway station in August 1980 which killed 85 people, the deadliest event during the Years of Lead

In 1990, the European Parliament adopted a resolution alleging that military secret services in certain member states were involved in serious terrorism and crime, whether or not their superiors were aware.

The resolution also urged investigations by the judiciaries of the countries in which those armies operated, so that their modus operandi and actual extension would be revealed.

To date, only Italy, Switzerland and Belgium have had parliamentary inquiries into the matter.

The three inquiries reached differing conclusions as regarded different countries. 

Above: Logo of the European Parliament

Guido Salvini, a judge who worked in the Italian Massacres Commission, concluded that some right-wing terrorist organizations of the Years of Lead – La Fenice, National Vanguard and Ordine Nuovo – were the trench troops of a secret army, remotely controlled by exponents of the Italian state apparatus and linked to the CIA.

Salvini said that the CIA encouraged them to commit atrocities. 

Above: Guido Salvini

The Swiss inquiry found that British intelligence secretly cooperated with their army in an operation named P-26 and provided training in combat, communications, and sabotage.

It also discovered that P-26 not only would organize resistance in case of a Soviet invasion, but would also become active should the left succeed in achieving a parliamentary majority. 

Above: Carlo Schmid-Sutter, senator leading the Swiss inquiry

The Belgian inquiry could find no conclusive information on their army.

No links between them and terrorist attacks were found, and the inquiry noted that the Belgian secret services refused to provide the identity of agents, which could have eliminated all doubts. 

Above: Logo of the Belgian Secret Service

A 2000 Italian parliamentary report from the left wing coalition Gruppo Democratici di Sinistra l’Ulivo reported that terrorist massacres and bombings had been organised or promoted or supported by men inside Italian state institutions who were linked to American intelligence.

Above: Logo of the Olive Tree Coalition

The report also said the United States was guilty of promoting the strategy of terrorism. 

Above: Flag of the United States of America

Operation Gladio is also suspected to have been activated to counter existing left-wing parliamentary majorities in Europe.

The US State Department published a communiqué in January 2006 that stated claims the United States ordered, supported, or authorized terrorism by stay-behind units, and US-sponsored “false flag” operations are rehashed former Soviet disinformation based on documents that the Soviets forged.

Above: Flag of the Soviet Union (1922 – 1991)

The word gladio is the Italian form of gladius, a type of Roman short sword.

Above: Roman gladius

Crypto AG was a Swiss company specialising in communications and information security founded by Boris Hagelin in 1952.

The company was secretly purchased for US $5.75 million and jointly owned by the American CIA and West German Federal Intelligence Service (BND) from 1970 until about 1993, with the CIA continuing as sole owner until about 2018.

Above: Logo of the German Secret Service

The mission of breaking encrypted communication using a secretly owned company was known as “Operation Rubikon“.

Above: Operation Rubikon –
(dark green) Spying countries / (light green) Knowing countries / (red) Nations spied upon

With headquarters in Steinhausen, the company was a long-established manufacturer of encryption machines and a wide variety of cipher devices.

Above: Steinhausen, Canton Zug, Switzerland

The company had about 230 employees, had offices in Abidjan, Abu Dhabi, Buenos Aires, Kuala Lumpur, Muscat, Selsdon and Steinhausen, and did business throughout the world.

Above: Images of Abidjian, Ivory Coast

Above: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates

Above: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Above: Kuala Lumpar (KL), Malaysia

Above: Muscat, Oman

Above: Selsdon, London, England

The owners of Crypto AG were unknown, supposedly even to the managers of the firm.

They held their ownership through bearer shares.

The company has been criticized for selling backdoored products to benefit the American, British and German national signals intelligence agencies, the National Security Agency (NSA), the Government Communications Headquarters (GCHQ) and the BND, respectively.

Above: British Intelligence

On 11 February 2020, the Washington Post, ZDF and SRF revealed that Crypto AG was secretly owned by the CIA in a highly classified partnership with West German intelligence, and the spy agencies could easily break the codes used to send encrypted messages.

Above: German TV broadcaster Zweites Deutsches Fernsehen (2nd German Television)

Above: Logo of Swiss Radio and TV

The operation was known first by the code name “Thesaurus” and later “Rubicon“. 

According to a Swiss parliamentary investigation:

Swiss intelligence services were aware of and benefited from the Zug-based firm Crypto AG’s involvement in the US-led spying.”

Above: Swiss Defense Ministry, home of the Swiss Federal Intelligence Service, Bern

This is neutrality?

Honestly, my (albeit, amateur) opinion is that after the Swiss learned that waging war is more expensive than making wages from war, Swiss allegiance is as predictable as the direction of an airport’s wind sock – everything depends on which way the winds of change are blowing and what can generate the most profit.

Granted that war is truly something to be avoided, but there are times in the affairs of men that action is needed even if that action may mean that your side might lose.

I view the Switzerland of today no differently than the Switzerland of yesterday:

Mercantile, mercenary, Machiavellian in its machinations.

Above: Niccolò Machiavelli (1469 – 1527)

How the conduct and conscience of a nation connect with Thurgau’s second city is reflected in the weather vane direction switch that Kreuzlingen has showed over the decade when I was a resident of nearby Landschlacht.

It seemed almost on a weekly basis that either the Thurgauer Zeitung, the Kreuzlinger Nachrichten or the Kreuzlinger Zeitung would write editorials complaining vehemently how the region was being invaded and dominated by Germans and other foreigners buying lakeside property and dominating local business in much the same manner as occurred before World War 1.

Then the coronavirus struck and the border between Kreuzlingen and Konstanz was sealed.

Suddenly, Kreuzlingers were singing a different tune – how wonderful the Germans were, how beneficial the open border was for both nations, how eager everyone was for international trade and relations to resume.

Above: Swiss – German border closed during the coronavirus pandemic

Say what one will about the Germans, but at least they, rightly or wrongly, seem far more honest and steadfast and transparent than their Swiss counterparts.

Above: The border between Germany (north) and Switzerland (south)

The fact that Kreuzlingen Abbey was deliberately torched twice suggests that distrusting the Swiss was not unique to the times nor to the residents of Konstanz.

Above: Basilica of St. Ulrich and St. Afra, Kreuzlingen

Kreuzlingen invariably reminds me of Gatineau, Québec, across the Ottawa River from Ottawa, Ontario, Canada’s federal capital.

Gatineau definitely benefits from Ottawa as a major employer of its residents and yet often the Québec nationalist sentiments flow more strongly through Gatineau thought than the River that separates the two cities.

Above: Gatineau, Québec, Canada

Kreuzlingen has a population (as of December 2020) of 22,390.

As of 2008, 48.1% of the population are foreign nationals. 

Over the last 10 years (1997 – 2007) the population has changed at a rate of 2.2%.

Most of the population (as of 2000) speaks German (79.7%), Italian (5.2%) and Albanian (3.8%).

In all my visits to Kreuzlingen I have heard and spoken only German.

Above: Kreuzlingen

At first glance the casual observer might wonder why the Germans would move to Kreuzlingen when almost everything in Switzerland is far more expensive than is found in Germany.

But it seems for many professions working conditions are better in the Confederation than in the Republic.

This was the case for my wife’s profession.

The opposite was true for mine.

I reckon the next question should be whether Kreuzlingen is worth visiting at all.

Here is what Kreuzlingen has to offer the tourist:

  • Five churches:

Above: St. Peter’s, Kurzrickenbach, Kreuzlingen

Above: Holy Cross Chapel, Bernrain, Kreuzlingen

Above: St. Ulrich and St. Afra Church (includes a museum), Kreuzlingen

Above: Evangelical Church, Egelshofen, Kreuzlingen

Above: St. Stephen Roman Catholic Church, Kreuzlingen

  • Ten castles:

Above: Ebersberg Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Brunegg Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Girsberg Castle

Above: Römerburg Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Gaissberg Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Seeburg Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Bernegg Castle, Emmishofen, Kreuzlingen

Above: Irsee Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Felsenburg Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Felsenschlössli Castle, Kreuzlingen

Above: Rosenegg Castle and Museum, Kreuzlingen

  • Museums:

Above: Maritime Museum (Seemuseum), Kreuzlingen

Above: Border exhibit, Rosenegg Museum, Kreuzlingen

Above: Dolls, Puppenmuseum, Schloss Girsberg, Kreuzlingen

  • Two Stölpersteine (stumbling blocks) found on Schläferstrasse in memory of those who were persecuted by the Nationalist Socialist Party

At Schäflerstrasse 11:

Ernst Bärtschi (1903 – 1983) was born in Tuttlingen, Germany. 

He was a Swiss citizen, like his father, a shoemaker from Dulliken in canton Solothurn, who worked in Germany building the Black Forest Railway and married a woman from Tuttlingen.

Ernst Bärtschi and his German friends Karl Durst and Andreas Fleig smuggled political pamphlets and brochures from 1933 onwards. 

Later he helped countless emigrants to flee to Switzerland. 

In 1938, he and his comrades-in-arms fell into a Gestapo trap and were sentenced to 13 years in prison. 

Shortly before the end of the war he was liberated by the Americans.

Bärtschi died in Scherzingen in canton Thurgau.

At Schäflerstrasse 7:

Andreas Fleig (1884 – 1971) was born in Sulz an der Lahr, Germany. 

His parents were the carpenter Nikolaus Fleig and his wife Elisabeth. 

He had several siblings and also learned the carpenter’s trade. 

He moved to Konstanz, joined the German Woodworkers’ Association in 1904 and was a member of the SPD from 1910 to 1914. 

In 1912 he moved to the Thurgau community of Kreuzlingen and worked for Jonasch & Cie, which manufactured seating furniture. 

He married Wilhelmine Friedricke née Bleich and the couple had one son, Karl Andreas. 

During the First World War he served in the German army from 1915 to 1918, but did not return to the troops from a home leave in 1918 and stayed in Switzerland. 

In 1928, he bought a small house at Schäflerstrasse 7 in Kreuzlingen for around 15,000 francs. 

A local councilor described him as a:

Swabian of real buck and grain. 

Efficient at work and helpful in life.»

Fleig was a declared opponent of National Socialism and kept in touch with trade unionists and social democrats. 

As early as 1933 he was wanted by the Gestapo.

Together with his work colleagues and friends Josef Anselm and Karl Durst from Konstanz and his neighbor, the aluminum worker Hermann Ernst Bärtschi, he smuggled political brochures and magazines – such as Der Funke, afa Nachrichten or the Neue Vorwärts  – from Switzerland to Germany. 

He also worked with his friends as a courier for emigrant mail from Switzerland to Germany and also obtained border permits, which he used to steer persecuted officials of the German labour movement across the border. 

For example, he saved the SPD Reichstag deputy Hans Unterleitner, who was interned in the Dachau concentration camp from 1933 to 1935, and his family. 

When on 8 May 1938, together with Bärtschi and Durst, he tried to bring the persecuted trade union functionary Hans Lutz across the border, all three escape helpers were arrested. 

Under torture, Lutz had revealed all the names of the Funkentruppe

Also arrested were Josef Anselm, Paulina Gutjahr and Bruno W. Schlegel, the other members of the resistance group. 

On 12 October 1938, Fleig was sentenced to 15 years in prison by the People’s Court in Berlin.

On 7 November 1938, he was transferred to the Ludwigsburg penitentiary, where he remained imprisoned until 5 April 1945. 

As the Americans approached, he was transferred to the Landsberg / Lech penitentiary, where he was released on 28 May 1945. 

During his imprisonment, Fleig suffered permanent damage to his health, heart muscle weakness, neuralgic-rheumatic complaints and a painful ear condition.

In 1945 Fleig first went to Konstanz, then to his hometown of Sulz, and finally to Dübendorf near Zürich, where his son worked. 

He later moved to Esslingen am Neckar near Stuttgart and then back to his hometown of Sulz in the mid-1950s. 

His application for compensation was answered by the Baden Ministry of Finance on 28 July 1951 as follows:

The application has been rejected. 

This also eliminates recognition as a victim of National Socialism”. 

He was only able to enforce his claims with the help of a lawyer. 

Andreas Fleig died in Sulz an der Lahr. 

Every summer, an international dance festival, the Bodensee Salsa Festival, takes place in the Dreispitz sports and culture center with salsa, kizomba , bachata, hip-hop, tango and dance workshops.

Theatrical performances take place irregularly in the “Theater an der Grenz“, near the Seeburg and on the Girsberg.

Every year on the second weekend in August, together with the German city of Konstanz, the Fantastical / Seenachtfest, with fireworks, takes place, attracting 50,000 visitors from the region (and far beyond).

In 2002, Switzerland’s second planetarium went into operation with the Kreuzlingen Planetarium, built right next to the observatory that opened in 1976 above the city. 

Two planet paths, each six kilometers long, end at the Planetarium. 

The Planet Trail South comes from the Siegershausen train station, the Planet Trail North from the Bodensee Therme Konstanz.

FC Kreuzlingen, founded in 1905, has been playing in the 5th highest division in football, the 2nd interregional league, since 2013. 

The stadium on Konstanzerstrasse (“borderland stadium“), (1931 – 1959) was awarded the fan prize (football memory of the year) by the German Academy for Football Culture in 2017. 

Since 2019, AS Calcio Kreuzlingen has also played interregionally in the 2nd division, both Kreuzlingen clubs are in the same group. 

AS Calcio plays their home games at the Döbeli sports facility.

The local swimming club (founded 1926) offers swimming, swimming school and water polo. 

Ice hockey has been played by the EHC Kreuzlingen – Konstanz team since 1956. 

The EHC plays in the Bodensee Arena, which was the venue for the 2011 MLP Nations Cup.

Monday night in-line skating has been held in Kreuzlingen since 2005, weather permitting.

The ITF Kreuzlingen has hosted an international tennis tournament for women every year since 2013.

In 2006, the Dreispitz sports and cultural centre was opened northeast of Bärenplatz.

Now clearly there have been more fine individuals resident or native Kreuzlingers than the aforementioned Bärtschi and Flieg (and as well some scoundrels of notoriety):

Above: Coat of arms of Kreuzlingen

August Gremli (1833 – 1899), son of the district doctor Johannes Gremli, studied medicine in Berlin and München (Munich) and then completed an apprenticeship as a pharmacist in Karlsruhe. 

From 1876 he worked as curator in Émile Burnat’s herbarium in Nant near Vevey. 

From 1899 he lived again in Kreuzlingen.

He published several works on flora in Switzerland, his main work Exkursionsflora der Schweiz in 1867. 

With Burnat he published several essays on the flora of the Maritime Alps.

Together with the pharmacist Johannes Schalch, Gremli discovered the varied flora, the roses and the orchids of the Wangental near Schaffhausen.

I read of men like Gremli and I find myself wondering:

What must it be like to see nature in the manner that naturalists and botanists do?

Rarely am I envious of those I call “friend” but my Irish pal Hugh Morris, presently lecturing in Vienna (Wien), is one such individual who can see trees and plants in this way.

A mere stroll with Hugh is an education in itself.

Above: Hugh Morris, the man, the legend

Enrique Conrado Rébsamen ( Heinrich Konrad Rebsamen) (1857 – 1904) was a Swiss-Mexican educator whose reforms and ideas significantly influenced the educational system in Mexico.

Enrique Conrado Rébsamen was born in Kreuzlingen as the eldest child of the couple Johann Ulrich and Katharina Rebsamen (née Egloff). 

As a farmer’s son, his father attended the teacher training college in Küsnacht and, after studying theology and spending time abroad, worked from 1854 to 1897 as director of the teacher training college in Kreuzlingen. 

Above: Küsnacht, 1905

At the same time, Johann Ulrich served as secondary school inspector and educational councilor, between 1866 and 1874 as the editor of Bildung Schweiz (the Swiss teachers’ newspaper), and until 1894 as a member of the central committee of the Swiss Teachers’ Association. 

Throughout his life, Johann Ulrich implemented the ideas of Ignaz Thomas Scherr and his concept of scientific teacher training.

As a teacher myself, I cannot resist speaking of Ignaz Scherr…..

Above: Ignaz Thomas Scherr

Ignaz Thomas Scherr (1801 – 1870) was a Swiss pedagogue, pioneer of the Zürich elementary school system and author of numerous textbooks and pedagogical writings.

Thomas Scherr was the son of the teacher Franz Scherr and his wife Cäcilie, née Nüding. 

Thomas also became a teacher and after 1818 devoted himself particularly to the education of the deaf. 

After a short period as an elementary teacher, Scherr was employed in Gmünd in 1821 as a teacher for the deaf and blind. 

Above: Schwäbisch Gmund, Germany

In 1825 he was called to Zürich to take over the management of the institute for the blind there. 

Scherr founded an institution for the deaf and mute and connected it with the Institute for the Blind. 

Both institutions showed significant successes under his leadership. 

In addition to his work as director and teacher at both institutes, Scherr dealt with general pedagogical questions and with the reform of the Zürich elementary school system.

Textbooks and syllabuses, which he published in 1830, made his name more widely known. 

After converting to the Reformed faith and marrying a woman from Zürich, Scherr was naturalized in 1831. 

In the same year he was elected to the canton’s educational council, where he took part in elementary school reform. 

The drafting of a new elementary school law was entrusted to him.

Above: Coat of arms of Zürich

In 1832, the post of director of the newly founded teachers’ college in Küsnacht was advertised. 

The 31-year-old Scherr was elected for life by the Zürich government council by twelve votes to one. 

Scherr had not applied. 

He feared, unjustly, that he had messed things up with the Küsnachters because he had previously advocated Greifensee as the seat of the seminary. 

Scherr and his family moved into an apartment in the “zur Traube” building on Wiltisgasse. 

Space for teacher training was found in the Seehof building (today the CG Jung Institute) on the Zürichsee (Lake Zürich).

Two rooms were available on the ground floor and two on the first floor for teaching.

Above: Seehof, Küsnacht

The pedagogical movement quickly spread across the entire canton. 

Scherr developed an activity that can hardly be understood today. 

He taught most of the subjects himself, took care of the management business, offered further training courses for teachers, wrote pedagogical writings, visited village schools throughout the canton on foot and was also still a member of the cantonal education council.

Above: Scherr (45) –
The elementary school should educate the children of all classes according to the same principles as mentally active, civilly useful and morally religious people.

Scherr writes:

The life and hustle and bustle as it currently prevails in Küsnacht cannot be described. 

Not a day goes by without inquisitive guests arriving.

Every day that a village school is on vacation, the teacher rushes to the seminary to get instruction. 

I could give 6-10 hours of teaching during the day, then continue at night on organizational work and pedagogical writings until the next day’s time, and in the morning bright and happy begin the cycle again. 

Or I could hurry on foot to the meeting of the Education Council in Zurich late in the evening in stormy and rainy weather and, after a laborious journey home, correct the written essay. 

Those were the best days of my life. 

I felt the power and strength of embracing a creative idea.»

The Küsnacht seminar was considered the most exemplary and best conducted in all of Switzerland. 

In the spring of 1834, the seminary moved to the main building of the former commandery of the Johanniter (Order of St. John), which had become vacant the year before. 

Scherr was able to purchase the “Seehof” privately in 1837.

Above: Flag of the Order of St. John

In his position as seminar director, Scherr led and reformed almost completely and alone the elementary school system under his control. 

As much as he was successful and admired on the one hand, he was an enemy to the conservatives on the other.

The clergy, in particular, who had hitherto controlled the school, saw their authority threatened. 

They denounced him as:

A prophet endangering the true faith, whose liberal-tinged Christianity was being spread across the country by his disciples, and whose new teaching materials could herald the new unbelief“. 

The threats against Scherr are said to have become so severe that when he hurried home on foot late at night from the Education Council meeting in Zürich, he was accompanied by an escort of strong seminarians. 

Above: Küsnacht High School

Scherr also encountered resistance from manufacturer circles because of a planned ban on night work for children.

On his visits to the village schools he had seen how many children slept during class because they had to work six hours a night in the factory. 

In response to Scherr’s report, the governing council actually issued an ordinance against the abuse of children in factory work. 

Scherr represented his pedagogical views in the “Pedagogical Observer” that he published.

Above: Newsboys, New York City, 23 February 1908

After the victory of the reactionary circles in the Züriputsch (a reactionary coup by the government of Canton Zürich) on 6 September 1839, Scherr fell victim to the reshuffles in the most important authorities, in which conservatives took seats. 

Above: Fighting on the parade ground between government troops and rebellious peasants during the 
Zürich Putsch in 1839.

Although elected for life, he was suspended from office in the summer of 1839 and given a third of his salary. 

By 1 November 1839, he had to vacate his office.

On 1 May 1840, he was dismissed. 

In an appeal to the government council against his unlawful dismissal, he was defeated.

On his dismissal, Scherr wrote:

«What have I done wrong?

I wanted to raise the elementary school to a free, independent institution, but the hatred of many clergymen punished me for that.

I wanted an elementary school that would produce a noble, reasonable people, so the aristocrats hate me.

I wanted to give even the poorest child a way to school and a happy youth, which is why the selfishness of some factory owners and the rudeness of unscrupulous parents haunt me.»

On 17 August 1840, a second pompous opening ceremony took place in Küsnacht, at which Scherr’s merits were not mentioned at all. 

Instead, there were protestations to the conservatives and to the church.

Above: My observations, aspirations and destinies,1840

In 1842 Scherr sold his “Seehof” to the Canton, which enabled him to buy the “Obere Hochstrasse” estate in Emmishofen near Kreuzlingen in Canton Thurgau.

Above: Emmishofen

In 1843, together with his younger brother Johann, he opened a private institute for the deaf and mute on the “Sonnenberg” in Winterthur, which he had bought in 1840 and as a preparatory college for boys’ college studies. 

Since the conditions in the canton of Zürich had meanwhile changed in favour of a freer teaching system, Scherr was able to continue working on the realization of his pedagogical ideas there until his death. 

In Winterthur he gave lectures on German literature, taught revolutionary history in French and taught German to adults. 

There he also received a thank-you address signed by 4,763 canton citizens and a golden commemorative coin. 

Above: Old Town Winterthur

Scherr’s final years were shaped on the one hand by long journeys through Europe, numerous correspondence with friends and visits to schools and homes, on the other hand overshadowed by an ear problem that made him hard of hearing. 

Thomas Scherr died of a heart attack in 1870. 

A street in Küsnacht and a primary school in District 6 in Zürich are named after him.

Above: Thomas Scherr Strasse, Küsnacht

Katharina Rebsamen-Egloff was also highly educated and the daughter of a government councilor and colonel in the Swiss army.

Between 1874 and 1876, Enrique C. Rébsamen attended the teacher training college in Kreuzlingen. 

Above: Pädagogische Maturitätsschule Kreuzlingen

He then completed his studies in Lausanne and Zürich before serving as director of the grammar school in Lichtenfels until 1882.

During this time he made friends with various intellectuals. 

Above: Lichtenfels, the basket town

One of them, the explorer and writer Carl von Gagern, gave Rébsamen his essay Quetzalcoatl to read. 

According to tradition, Rébsamen was initially shocked to read it, but in 1883 he decided to get to know Mexico better.

In Mexico, Rébsamen initially took over the education of a merchant’s children. 

In Mexico City (Ciudad de México), Rébsamen befriended contemporary figures, such as author and politician Ignacio Manuel Altamirano.

Above: Images of Ciudad de México, Mexico

Ignacio Manuel Altamirano Basilio (1834 – 1893) was a Mexican radical liberal writer, journalist, teacher and politician.

He wrote Clemencia (1869), which is often considered to be the first modern Mexican novel.

A great defender of liberalism, he took part in the Ayutla Revolution in 1854 against Santanismo, later in the Reform War and fought against the French invasion in 1863.

After this period of military conflicts, Altamirano dedicated himself to teaching, working as a teacher at the National Preparatory School, at the Higher School of Commerce and Administration, and at the National School of Teachers.

He also worked in the press, where, together with Guillermo Prieto and Ignacio Ramirez, he founded the El Correo de México, and, with Gonzalo A. Esteva, the literary magazine El Renacimiento, in which writers of all literary, ideological and political tendencies collaborate, which had among its main objectives to provoke the resurgence of Mexican letters and promote the notion of national unity and identity.

He laid the foundations for free, secular and compulsory primary education. 

He founded the Liceo de Puebla and the Escuela Normal de Profesores de México and wrote several highly successful books in his time, in which he cultivated different styles and literary genres. 

Critical studies of him were published in literary magazines in Mexico. 

His speeches have also been published. 

Altamirano loved the legends, customs and descriptions of the landscapes of Mexico. 

In 1867, he began to stand out and oriented his literature towards the affirmation of national values, also serving as a literary historian and critic. 

On the centenary of his birth, his remains were deposited in the Rotunda of Illustrious Persons in Mexico City. 

The Ignacio Manuel Altamirano medal was created in order to reward 50 years of teaching work.

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Above: Ignàcio Manuel Altamirano

As a result, Mexican President Porfinio Díaz became aware of Rébsamen. 

Above: Porfirio Diaz (1830 – 1915)

He recommended him to the then governor of Veracruz, Juan de la Luz Enriquez, who was promoting educational projects in the state at the same time.

In 1886, Rébsamen founded the Escuela Normal, the teachers’ college in Xalapa, the capital of the state of Veracruz.

Above: Coat of arms of Veracruz

He followed the pattern of the school of the German Enrique Laubscher in Orizaba. 

Above: Enrique Laubscher

Rébsamen’s ideas and methods were published by Abraham Castellanos under the title Pedagogía Rébsamen (Rébsamen Pedagogy).

In 1889, Rébsamen founded the magazine called México Intelectual.

From 1891, at the request of President Diaz, the reorganization of public schools was extended to other places. 

Rébsamen personally worked in Oaxaca, Jalisco and Guanajuato. 

In seven other educational institutions, teachers trained by him passed on the new ideas. 

In 1900, 45 educational institutions were already working according to his methods. 

At the same time, Rébsamen published numerous writings, such as “Method of Writing and Reading” in 1899 , which was sold in four million copies by 1929.

Rébsamen died in Xalapa in April 1904 .

Above: Images of Xalapa, Mexico

The Mexican teacher training is still based in many parts on the work of Rébsamen. 

He founded the regulated teacher training in Mexico and promoted the local elementary school system. 

Rébsamen also drafted legal texts that defined primary education throughout the state in its new form. 

To this day, Rébsamen is recognized in numerous public places.

  • The teacher seminar he founded in Veracruz bears his name
  • Various streets in Mexico bear Rébsamen’s name, including one of the main streets in Xalapa and another in Mexico City’s Colonia Valle district
  • Numerous schools in Mexico are named after Rébsamen
  • In Switzerland, Rébsamen is commemorated with a commemorative plaque in the southern stairwell of the old building of the Kreuzlingen pedagogical middle school

Above: Escuela Rébsamen in Xalapa

Rébsamen is proof positive that someone, something, good can come out of Kreuzlingen.

Edgar Steiger (1858 – 1919) was a German-Swiss writer and journalist.

Edgar Steiger was born in Kreuzlingen as the 12th child of a renowned evangelical pastor. 

Under these conditions, his path in church service seemed already mapped out. 

After graduating from the Heinrich Suso Gymnasium (high school) in Konstanz in 1877, he began his theological studies at the University of Basel. 

Above: Suso Gymnasium, Konstanz, Germany

He soon switched to the philosophical faculty.

When the pressure of expectations from his strictly conservative, theologically oriented family became too great for the gifted man, he fled to Leipzig in 1879 without their knowledge. 

At the University of Leipzig, freer study awaited him. 

However, in 1883, Steiger finally broke off his studies.

From 1884 he tried his hand as a freelance writer and theater critic. 

He became an employee of critical literary magazines that dealt with the newly emerging literature of naturalism (the precise observation of society and nature and the depiction of current problems of the time). 

Steiger’s first writing on this was published in 1889 under the title The struggle for the new seal.

He had a combative nature and found a home in the young social democracy. 

Steiger became acquainted with leaders of the German Social Democratic Party. 

Above: Logo of the German Social Democratic Party

Through his one-year activity in 1893/1894 as assistant editor of the Vorwärts in Basel, he was also in contact with local Social Democrats. 

Back in Leipzig, Steiger became editor of the features section of the Leipziger Volkszeitung in 1895, where he wrote critical articles on political issues for many years under the pseudonym Cri-Cri.  

In 1896 he became editor of the Neue Welt, the culturally oriented Sunday supplement for the social democratic newspaper. 

Shortly afterwards he had to deal with the public prosecutor’s office, because of a novella published in the Neue Welt, charged with blasphemy.

Above: Banner of Die Neue Welt (1876 – 1919)

Steiger was accused in 1896 as the responsible editor in the “Nazarene Trial” and sentenced in March 1897 to four and a half months in prison in Zwickau. 

Above: Zwickau, Germany

Steiger used this time to write his extensive, highly acclaimed work on the dramatic literature of naturalism: 

The Becoming of the New Drama.

Steiger left Leipzig in March 1898 to settle in München (Munich), the city that promised writers at the time freer creativity compared to other major cities. 

Above: München (Munich), Bayern (Bavaria), Deutschland (Germany)

There he became a busy contributor, particularly to the renowned journals Jugend and Simplicissimus

Above: Copy of Jugend (Youth) (1896 – 1940)

By the time he died, he had written more than 400 texts for the latter magazine, as one of their four “house poets“.

Above: First edition of Simplicissimus (1896 – 1944)

As a theatre reviewer, he worked for the daily newspapers Münchner Neueste NachrichtenHamburger Fremdenblatt, Berlin’s Der Tag, and others, as well as for the cultural magazines Münchner SalonblattFreistattDas literarische Echo, and many more.

Through his work in Munich’s cultural life, he was in close contact with the literary and theatre world.

Above: Coat of arms of Munich

During the First World War, Steiger’s collection of poems, Weltwirbel, was published. 

During this time he increasingly turned to social democratic newspapers, such as the daily newspapers Münchener Post and the Frankfurter Zeitung, as well as the magazines Die Glocke and, after the end of the war, Die Neue Zeit.

The situation for journalists deteriorated to such an extent – also due to the shortage of paper – that Steiger, who had been a member of the “Protection Association of German Writers” (SDS) since 1913, was only able to achieve a slight improvement in the situation with his fight for higher line fees. 

War, impoverishment and hunger exhausted Edgar Steiger’s vitality. 

He died of acute pneumonia in 1919.

Ludwig Binswanger (1881 – 1966) was a Swiss psychiatrist and psychoanalyst.

He is probably the best-known offspring of the widespread Swiss psychiatrist family Binswanger. 

He was one of the leading intellectual personalities in his country early on and is considered the founder of Daseinsanalyse, a combination of psychoanalysis and existential philosophy, which represented an important depth psychological doctrine, especially after the Second World War.

As a result, Ludwig Binswanger found a permanent place in the history of psychiatry in the 20th century.

For 45 years he ran the Bellevue Sanatorium in Kreuzlingen, founded by his namesake grandfather in 1857, through which he became internationally known.

Above: Ludwig Binswanger

Ludwig Binswanger was the first son of Robert Binswanger, under whose direction the sanatorium had already gained a reputation throughout Europe. 

In line with family tradition, he grew up in close contact with the patients at the clinic, while the family itself had a keen interest in philosophy, history, literature, art and music that went far beyond that .

Personally, he was guided by his father’s principle of not being attached to any scientific “school” or dogma, in order to remain open and free from ideological and scientific ties. 

The Binswangers also took a liberal view early on in the treatment of the mentally ill, while on the other hand they showed great respect and deep understanding for the individuality of the sick. 

In Bellevue, Binswanger was interested in advances in psychiatry, particularly in Freud’s psychoanalysis, but critically examining them while preserving his own thinking and judgment.

Above: Sanatorium Bellevue, Kreuzlingen

At Brunegg Castle, Ludwig Binswanger received private lessons from the age of four, then he came to the seminar training school. 

He spent the first years of high school at the canton school in Schaffhausen, later he switched to the high school in Konstanz – it was an excellent school that gave him the intellectual and especially the scientific foundations of his education.

Above: Brunegg Castle, Emmishofen, Kreuzlingen

His medical training began in 1900. 

He studied three semesters in Lausanne, four semesters in Zürich, then two semesters in Heidelberg, and then another five semesters in Zürich.

In 1906, he passed his medical state examination in Zürich. 

Above: Logo of the University of Zürich

After completing his doctorate, he spent a year as an assistant at the Burgholzli University Clinic in Zürich, which was headed by Eugen Bleuler. 

Above: Eugen Bleuler (1857 – 1939)

The senior physician was Carl Gustav Jung, with whom Binswanger wrote his doctoral thesis The psychogalvanic reflex phenomenon in the association experiment

Jung drew Ludwig Binswanger’s attention to psychoanalysis. 

At that time, Bleuler and Jung were trying to incorporate psychoanalysis into psychiatry.

Above: Carl Jung (1875 – 1961)

Ludwig Binswanger dealt intensively with the psychoanalysis of Sigmund Freud at the Burgholzli. 

He owed his earliest contact with Freud to Jung. 

They worked on an analysis of the connection between ideas and effects. 

Above: Klinik Burghölzli, Zürich

In 1907, Binswanger and Jung travelled to see Freud in Vienna to discuss their findings with him.

A lifelong friendship with growing intimacy developed between Freud, who was 25 years his senior, and Binswanger. 

Their correspondence from 1908 to 1938 shows a fascinating discussion of different scientific views. 

Freud admired Binswanger’s erudition, the breadth of his intellectual horizon, his modesty and tact.

Various trips to Vienna and a return visit by Freud to Kreuzlingen at Pentecost in 1912 established a friendship between the two that lasted until Freud’s death in 1939, although they had fundamentally different views on theory.

Freud hoped that Binswanger would soon play a dual role as a mediator between psychoanalysis and the “Zürichers” (the analysts around Bleuler and Jung) on ​​the one hand and clinical psychiatry on the other.

However, a single dissenting vote by Binswanger in 1914 could not prevent the “Zürcher” from leaving the Psychoanalytic Association. 

For his part, Binswanger demonstratively joined the Vienna group and wrote to Freud:

I prefer this group because by joining it I think I can best document my adoration and admiration for you and my attachment.

Above: Sigmund Freud (1856 – 1939)

Another year followed in 1907/1908 as an assistant doctor with his uncle Otto Binswanger at the psychiatric clinic in Jena. 

Above: Otto Binswanger (1852 – 1929)

Above: Modern Jena, Germany

After an educational trip to Paris, England and Scotland, Binswanger joined his father Robert in Bellevue as an assistant doctor in 1908.

Above: Robert Binswanger (1850 – 1910)

That same year he married Hertha Buchenberger, whom he had met in Jena. 

She was the daughter of the Baden Minister of Finance. 

Having broken out of the narrow prejudices of her time, she had taken up the nursing profession, which was then despised and frowned upon in the upper circles. 

It was a lucky choice that Binswanger had made: 

A cultivated, sparkling, noble and noble woman entered his world, who understood him deeply, served the sick in a selfless way and accompanied him as the most loyal, understanding companion on his often not easy journey. 

Binswanger had a total of six children with his wife.

Above: Bellevue Sanatorium, Kreuzlingen

As early as 1911, the barely 30-year-old Ludwig took over the management of the Bellevue after the sudden death of his father. 

His brother Otto was responsible for the commercial and economic division of the company.

Above: Bellevue Sanatorium, Kreuzlingen

A day as director of the Bellevue:

  • the medical conference began at eight in the morning
  • the medical rounds lasted from nine to noon 
  • the doctors, their wives and the patients were brought together at lunchtime
  • at three o’clock in the afternoon the psychotherapeutic work followed
  • in the evening after seven o’clock the doctors and patients gathered for dinner together
  • after which one sat together with them and could then devote oneself to scientific reading

On Friday afternoon, Binswanger retired to Brunegg to rest thoroughly from this strict “being-there-for-the-others” attitude; 

Saturday and Sunday permitted one’s own scientific work. 

The family had to be neglected in this service, but his grandfather had already introduced the motto:

First come the sick.

Above: Brunegg Castle, Emmishofen, Kreuzlingen

In 1920 he gave a paper at the Hague International Congress of Psychoanalysis entitled “Psychoanalysis and Clinical Psychiatry“. 

Two years later, Binswanger’s main work from the early phase, Introduction to the problems of general psychology, appeared.

In the interwar period, Binswanger was busy giving lectures. 

In 1922, for example, he gave a lecture on “On Phenomenology” in Burgholzli, in which he dealt with the importance of Husserl’s phenomenology for psychopathology. 

Phenomenology is a philosophical trend whose representatives see the origin of knowledge gain in immediately given appearances, the phenomena.

In the 1920s, philosophers, writers and artists often met at Bellevue.

Thanks to Ludwig’s diverse contacts, the Bellevue became a center of European intellectual life. 

Binswanger’s extensive correspondence and the Kreuzlingen guest book, which lists artists and scientists of European standing, bear witness to this:

  • Sigmund Freud
  • Edmund Husserl 
  • Max Scheler
  • Martin Heidegger
  • Karl Löwith
  • Leopold Ziegler
  • Martin Buber
  • Werner Bergengruen
  • Leonhard Frank
  • Rudolf Alexander Schröder
  • Edwin Fischer
  • Henry van de Velde
  • Aby Warburg
  • Julius Schaxel
  • Kurt Goldstein
  • Wilhelm Furtwängler
  • Emil Staiger

Other personalities visited Binswanger in Kreuzlingen.

Illustrious names were also among the patients at Bellevue: 

  • Alice von Battenberg (mother of Prince Philip, Prince Consort of Queen Elizabeth II)
  • Russian dancer Vaslav Nijinsky
  • actor Gustaf Gründgens
  • art historian Aby Warburg
  • psychologist Karl Duncker
  • artist Ernst Ludwig Kirchner

Above: Portrait of Dr. Ludwig Binswanger, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner

After ten years of work, Binswanger published his work Introduction to the Problems of General Psychology in 1922, which he dedicated to Bleuler and Freud.

Above: Introduction to the Problems of General Psychology

From 1925 to 1928 Ludwig Binswanger was President of the Swiss Association for Psychiatry.

In 1936, on the occasion of Freud’s 80th birthday, Ludwig Binswanger held one of the celebratory lectures in Vienna entitled “Freud’s conception of man in the light of anthropology“, in which he subjected Freud’s conception of man to a well-founded criticism. 

The University of Basel awarded him an honorary doctorate in 1941.

Just one year later, in 1942, Binswanger’s main work, Basic Forms and Knowledge of Human Being, was published. 

In it, Binswanger founded his own anthropology, which became known under the name “Daseinsanalyse“.

In 1947, the first of two anthologies of lectures and essays was published, the second appeared in 1955.

Binswanger resigned from his position in 1956 and handed over the management of the clinic to his son Wolfgang.

Above: Inside Bellevue

Binswanger continued his research and writing for a long time after he left Bellevue. 

He did not see his works as something finished, accomplished:

Everything is always in the process of becoming. 

Now that he was old, he could devote himself to writing at leisure. 

At that time it had to be wrested from the few weeks of vacation in Braunwald, on Bödele in Vorarlberg, at Wolfsberg Castle, and the meager weekend hours. 

Because the days belonged to the sick.

Above: Braunwald, Canton Glaurus, Switzerland

Above: Bödele Lake, Vorarlberg, Austria

Above: Wolfsberg Castle, Carinthia, Austria

Ludwig Binswanger wrote Three Forms of Failed Existence: Extravagance, eccentricity, mannerisms in 1956.

This work related psychiatric-depth-psychological thinking to an art-historical perspective. 

According to this, neurotic and schizophrenic experiences have many parallels in cultural and intellectual history:

The mentally ill person does not “invent” their illness themselves, but absorbs a great deal from the culture surrounding them.

In 1957, his schizophrenia studies were published in the book Schizophrenie, as was the anthology Der Mensch in der Psychiatrie

One of the rare awards for outstanding scientific achievements, the Kraepelin Medal, was presented to Binswanger in 1957.

Two years later he was awarded an honorary doctorate by the University of Freiburg im Breisgau.

In 1960, the book Melancholie und Manie was published. 

In it, Binswanger turned to transcendental phenomenological thinking. 

Binswanger became an honorary senator of the Swiss Academy of Medical Sciences in Basel in 1961. 

In the book Wahn, which appeared in 1965, he dealt with the problem of delusion from a phenomenological and Daseinsanalytic point of view.

Above: Delusional

Ludwig Binswanger’s estate is in the Binswanger Archive of the University of Tübingen.

Ludwig Binswanger was primarily a scientist, more researcher than therapist, while he could rely on the cooperation of excellent resident physicians for his work in the clinic. 

This offered Binswanger the opportunity for extensive personal and academic contacts with many of the most renowned thinkers of his time.

Ludwig Binswanger rejected the possibility of an academic career. 

As a doctor, he always remained in close contact with psychiatric empiricism. 

The top priority for him was to methodically do justice to the vivid reality of sick people. 

For him, the philosophical and scientific currents of his time were primarily instruments for refining medical empiricism.

Binswanger rejected any formation of dogma. 

His reception of psychoanalysis was critical.

Above: Sanatorium Bellevue, Kreuzlingen

In search of a better understanding of the puzzling nature of psychosis and neurosis, Binswanger came across phenomenology. 

This doctrine says that a phenomenon is to be equated with the meaning and content of the experience of the respective person. 

Acts that give meaning and are filled with meaning and their subject matter make people human. 

The perceived phenomena remain both the starting point and the end point of scientific observation.

This is where Binswanger’s view differs in principle from Freud’s, psychoanalysis explores the unconscious behind the “façade” in depth psychology. 

In the end, phenomenology proved too narrow for Binswanger.

Ludwig Binswanger began to understand man in terms of his worldliness.

The new way of thinking about people and things revolutionized philosophy at the time.

Binswanger tried to clarify the relationship between science and philosophy in order to avoid confusion and mutual crossing of borders.

Ludwig Binswanger was enthusiastic about psychoanalysis. 

However, because of his psychopathological and psychiatric-clinical knowledge, conclusions and decisions, he was not satisfied with the limitations that psychoanalysis has. 

The general conditions of his clinic, which is far away from the university science operations, allowed him to gain his own knowledge in the context of the respective application of concretely required experiences and skills. 

Although the psychoanalytic method of treatment remained an indispensable tool for him, he distanced himself from the theoretical conclusions.

In an interlocking way of working, Ludwig Binswanger tried to combine knowledge from two different sources, psychoanalytical and philosophical, into a new theory. 

For him, theory is not, as in the natural sciences, a construction for the purpose of explaining an event. 

For him, theory becomes a methodological guide for the scientific understanding of these experiences, taken from the meaning and content of certain types of experience.

Ludwig Binswanger first named his field of research “phenomenological anthropology“. 

It was not until 1941 that he called it Daseinsanalyse.

It should not displace psychoanalysis, since they are two completely different ways of thinking. 

The basic psychoanalytic concern was even significantly promoted by the analysis of existence and has gained an important proximity to the reality of life.

Step by step, the founder of Daseinsanalyse demonstrated where and how the scientific way of thinking in the area of ​​human behavior falls short and misses what is specifically human in human existence. 

In doing so, he relied to a large extent on Heidegger’s deconstruction of Descartes’ basic idea- I think, therefore I am. – which had led to the subject-object split in the world, which Binswanger called the “cancer evil” of science.

Above: René Descartes (1596 – 1650)

Programmatically for the Daseinsanalyse, Ludwig Binswanger used Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel’s sentence:

Individuality is what its world as its own is“. 

Binswanger did not found a school, but integrated phenomenological, psychoanalytic and psychiatric points of view into an anthropology.

Above: Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel (1770 – 1831)

The existence analysis is a systematically practiced method in which doctor and patient are on the same level. 

It is the level of the dialogue about the structure of the entire world of the person concerned, in which the symptom becomes a structural element of his existence.

The patient should be allowed to speak, and he himself, it is not about the words about him. 

The mode of expression is the actual guide. 

It is about taking the verbal expression seriously, because this is the only way the doctor can gain greater clarity about what is to be perceived in the patient. 

This special communication between doctor and patient shows what is real and what should therefore become the basis of medical action. 

Through this form of relationship, Daseinsanalyse’s therapeutic effectiveness fell into its lap, so to speak.

Above: Ludwig Binswanger

The founder of Daseinsanalyse started from the necessity of a destiny bond with regard to the purely interpersonal relationship in the sense of genuine togetherness. 

The doctor has to consider a modification of the constitution of existence, this order of existence of the individual human being in his individual character. 

He can only do that if he gives up the medically learned objective observation standpoint in order to be able to participate in the existence of the other with a very special openness. 

In understanding and co-experiencing, he learns the essentials from the patient. 

He succeeds in finding out the “inner life story” of the patient.

The aim of the analysis of existence will always be to help the structure of the respective existence to its richest development.

The Sanatorium of Bellevue (1857 – 1980), which occupied part of the old monastery, played an important role in the history of Kreuzlingen.

In 1842, Ignaz Vanotti from Konstanz bought a large tract of land and built a residential and commercial building in 1843 to house the emigrant press of Bellevue, which had previously been located in Römerburg.

In 1857, Ludwig Binswanger, a psychiatrist from Münsterlingen, the grandfather of the aforementioned Ludwig Binswanger, acquired the property and opened a private sanatorium.

The clinic was very modern and remained in the control of the Binswanger family for nearly 120 years.

Important psychiatric advances, particularly under the founder’s grandson, also called Ludwig Binswanger, especially in the development of existential psychotherapy, were made at the sanatorium.

However, few of its buildings remain.

What remains of Bellevue can be seen from the Kreuzlingen Hauptbahnhof (main train station).

It is a reminder of that eternally elusive question:

Why am I here?

A person never goes to Kreuzlingen.

A person goes through Kreuzlingen en route to somewhere else.

But perhaps this is a mistake.

For life’s purpose should not be its final destination, but rather its moments on the journey.

We may not always enjoy where we are.

We may not always trust those we encounter there.

But life is either a blessing or a lesson.

Perhaps there is something Kreuzlingen has to teach.

Perhaps something positive can come from Kreuzlingen or Konya, Landschlacht or Lachute, Edmonton or Eskişehir, Rotterdam or Rome, or anywhere.

Places simply are.

It is us that give these places meaning.

Consider the court jester of the Middle Ages.

While considered merely to be a comedian, the jester was in a unique position to tell truth to power without being punished.

Back then, kings were absolute rulers – detached from the lives of their subjects (much like company CEOs can be clueless about the experience of their employees).

The jester’s job would be to play with the populace.

Then, having felt the pulse of the people, he would come back to court and tell the King the truth:

Your Highness, the people are peeved with the price of produce.

They are offended by the Queen’s coterie.

The Pope possesses more power than you.

Everyone is reading heretical literature.

Your stutter is the butt of many jokes and your butt is the topic over tea.

The King did not kill the jester.

In order to rule more wisely, the King needed the jester’s insights.

Today’s elected leaders have no better connection with real people (especially outside their borders) than those “divinely ordained” kings did centuries ago.

And this is where the traveller (as opposed to the tourist) plays the fool.

Our perspective differs from that of the locals, sometimes rightly, sometimes wrongly, but nevertheless the distinctiveness is important in offering a wider observation of common communities.

We see in a way the locals cannot.

That being said they see their world from their own viewpoint.

What is important is that everyone, everywhere has something to teach everyone else.

I think of my friends back at the Dublin.

I think of past friends who disappointed me by possessing the fatal flaw of being human and thus prone to error.

The danger has never been from the strange or the stranger, but rather from the familiar and beloved.

For it is those we love that expose our vulnerability, that can harm us in ways no mere stranger could imagine.

Those we trust can hurt us the most.

We have only today, only this moment.

The future may be something to be feared, but now is a gift.

That is why it is called the present.

There is a Kreuzlingen all around us.

It is the cross we all must carry.

How we choose to see it, what good can come from the experience, is what makes the difference in our existence.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Dale Carnegie, How to Win Friends and Influence People / Ralph Waldo Emerson, Self-Reliance / Susan Griffith, Teaching English Abroad / Ronald Gross, The Independent Scholar’s Handbook / George Orwell, Down and Out in Paris and London / Rick Steeves, Travel as a Political Act

Canada Slim and the Pharmacy of the Soul

Eskişehir, Turkey, Monday 18 April 2022 AD (18 Nisan 5782 AM) (18 Ramadan 1443 AH) (18 Pasar 2022 CE)

Despite this being Easter Monday (Christian calendar), the 18th day of Nisan (Jewish Passover) and the 18th day of Ramadan, religion is not a divisive issue in this city.

Generally, some fast and others feast.

Some pray and others pass the time going about their lives as if this month is merely just one of twelve in the year.

Above: Praying hands, Albrecht Dürer

To know a person’s religion we need not listen to his profession of faith but must find his brand of tolerance.

Eric Hoffer (1902 – 1993)

It is easy to be dismissive of religion, the pomp and pagentry, the ceremony and sanctimony, the folks that violate the tenets of faith in the name of that faith.

It is easy to dismiss the possibility of God whose only true proof of existence is our inability to disprove His existence.

And yet despite the faithless, despite the hypocrisy of some, despite the death, deceit and destruction committed in His Name by those unrecognizable as believers despite the masks they wear, I cannot but acknowledge the true purpose of faith, the real reason for religion, which is encapsulated in one single solitary word:

Hope.

We hope that our lives have meaning.

We hope that the pain and sorrow and suffering may lead to dignity.

We hope that we are not alone in this valley of the shadow of death.

We hope that death has meaning beyond ourselves, in spite of ourselves.

We hope that those who harm and hurt and harass others will be meted that which they dealt.

We hope that the love we shared with others will sustain us, perhaps even beyond this mortal coil.

Of the three Abrahamic religions, Judaism offers an eternal Promised Land, Islam suggests that a good person leaves behind a legacy of continuing charity and an inheritance of knowledge and a testament of righteous offspring worthy of the name, and Christianity suggests that there is a promise of an afterlife and that resurrection beyond longevity is possible.

We hope our lives have meaning.

We hope our deaths can be faced with dignity and daring.

We hope that who we are was not for naught.

And for all its flaws, for all its phonies, for all its unclarity and uncertainty and a myriad of interpretations, religion, faith, in ourselves, in desperate quest of destinies too wonderful for dreams, faith gives us all the only thing that matters:

Hope.

When you’ve fallen on the highway
And you’re lying in the rain,
And they ask you how you’re doing
Of course you’ll say you can’t complain
If you’re squeezed for information,
That’s when you’ve got to play it dumb
You just say you’re out there waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

Waiting for the Miracle“, Leonard Cohen (1934 – 2016)

I never want to be a man who steals hope.

That being said, how can anyone, such as I, sitting on the outside, possibly understand the deeper meaning of the reality of a religion if they have not personally lived it?

The answer, I have been assured by believers I have known, is personal.

Their moment of realization is beyond words.

Faith, by its very nature, is elusive.

Talk to me about the truth of religion and I will listen gladly.

Talk to me about the duty of religion and I will listen submissively.

But don’t come talking to me about the consolations of religion or I shall suspect that you don’t understand.

C. S. Lewis

Above: Clive Staples Lewis (1898 – 1963)

Here in Eskişehir, Turkey is celebrating Ramadan, a month of fasting, prayer, reflection and community.

In a religious life where faith, politics and culture are arguably more inextricably linked in any other religion, there are bound to be differences of opinion and controversial beliefs.

Essential truths can be either vaguely known, interpreted variously or just plain misunderstood.

Above: Halisi Cami (mosque), Eskişehir, Turkey

There is no reason to bring religion into it.

I think we ought to have as great a regard for religion as we can, so as to keep it out of as many things as possible.

Sean O’Casey

Above: Sean O’Casey (1880 – 1964)

The closest I have come to understanding faith in 2022 has been visits to St. Gallen, where today “half-assed Christians” (a term coined by a Catholic priest I once knew) will, for the first of only two annual visits to church – the other occasion being Christmas – will commemorate events two millennia past of a man who claimed to be the Son of God, preached and did all manner of miracles, was crucified as an enemy of the state, was resurrected and ascended to Heaven and will one day return to save the chosen few.

It is a nice story, difficult to prove, difficult to disprove.

It is a question of faith.

What do you choose to believe?

Above: Latin cross, a symbol of Christianity

It is in St. Gallen (among other places) where my faith – such as it is – finds its foundation, a harmony to my heart.

But this post is less a glorification of God as it is a monument to man, for much of the past decade found me working in St. Gallen and it is the people I have known there (and elsewhere) that have given me faith in humanity.

Perhaps the time has come to finally express my gratitude and to sing praises.

Above: Aerial view of St. Gallen, Switzerland

Sometimes I wonder if the manner in which Christianity was introduced to Switzerland is the reason why some Swiss view other faiths as so threatening to the fabric of Swiss life.

St. Gallen’s past may be a prime example of why the Swiss fear other religions following the examples of history.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Religion to me has always been the wound, not the bandage.”

Dennis Potter

Above: Dennis Potter (1935 – 1994)

The main urban centre of eastern Switzerland, St. Gallen has been described as “a relaxed provincial city set amid rolling countryside between the Appenzell hills and the Lake of Constance (Bodensee), with a beautiful old quarter“.

I agree with this description save for one word:

Relaxed.

Above: Klosterviertel (cloister quarter), Altstadt (old city), St. Gallen, Switzerland

I lived in Switzerland for a decade and much of that period was spent working in St. Gallen either as a teacher or as a barista.

Neither position was relaxing.

Above: Panoramic view of St. Gallen

As the wife and I lived in Landschlacht, a mere 15 km from the German border, we were more likely to spend our free time in Konstanz due to its closer proximity and lower costs.

Above: Landschlacht, Switzerland

St. Gallen has meant, for the most part, work, work and more work.

This is not to say that I did not make any friends during my employment there nor would I say that there weren’t some moments when I, alone or accompanied by the wife, would travel to St. Gallen for leisure activities, such as theatres, restaurants and museums.

It is nonetheless a mistake to label St. Gallen as relaxed, for it is a Swiss city, and relaxing is not something at which the Swiss generally excel.

Above: St. Gallen

The centrepiece of St. Gallen is its extraordinarily lavish Baroque abbey, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Above: Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

All the sweetness of religion is conveyed to the world by the hands of storytellers and image makers.

Without their fictions the truths of religion would for the multitude be neither intelligible nor even apprehensible.

Prophets would prophesy and the teachers teach in vain.

George Bernard Shaw

Above: George Bernard Shaw (1856 – 1950)

This has always struck me as an odd notion.

If God exists and is the Creator of all that is, why in Heaven’s name would He need to be celebrated in a lavish enclosure?

Nothing man can construct can ever compare with the majesty of nature.

If God exists then He cannot nor should not be contained with the confines of a cathedral or a Camii. (Turkish: mosque)

I have often said that within the confines of a city it is difficult to believe in God.

In the expanse of nature it is difficult to doubt that God doesn’t exist.

I think that lavish religious structures are never about glorifying God as much as they are for showing off the wealth of the community.

Do we build these magnificent temples for God’s glory?

Or for ours?

Above: Interior of the Abbey Cathedral

The Cathedral is impressive enough and serves as an ever present reminder that the city owes its name to the religious community that remains at its core.

This giant Baroque building is unmissable, its twin towers visible from most points.

Above: Kloster St. Gallen, 1769

Designed by Peter Thumb from Bregenz (Austria), it was completed in 1797 after just 12 years’ work.

Above: Peter Thumb (1681 – 1767)

Access is through the west door, although it is worth making your way around the church and looking at the outside from the enclosed Klosterhof (cloister yard), at the heart of the complex, where you can gaze up at the soaring east facade.

The interior is vast, a broad, brightly lit basilica with a triple-aisled nave and central cupola.

Although not especially high, the Cathedral has a sense of huge depth and breadth.

From the sandstone of the floor and the wood of the pews, fancy light-green stuccowork – characteristic of churches in the Konstanz region – draws your eye up the massive double-width pillars to the array of frescoes on the ceiling, which are almost entirely the work of one artist, Josef Wannenmacher.

The central cupola shows Paradise with the Holy Trinity, apostles and saints.

Above: Rotunda, Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

(“And the three men I admire the most

The Father, Son and the Holy Ghost

They took the last train for the coast

The day the music died“)

Don McLean

Details throughout the rest of the Cathedral are splendid:

  • the ornate choir screen
  • the richly-carved walnut-wood confessionals
  • the intricate choir stalls
  • at the back at the choir, the high altar flanked by black marble columns with gold trim

The south altar features a bell brought by Gall(us) on his 7th-century journey from Ireland.

Above: Inside the Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

Gall’s origin is a matter of dispute.

It is all a matter of what you choose to believe.

According to his 9th-century biographers in Reichenau, he was from Ireland and entered Europe as a companion of Columbanus (Columba).

Above: St. Peter and St. Paul Church, Reichenau Island, Germany

The Irish origin of the historical Gall was called into question by Gerrold Hilty (2001), who proposed it as more likely that he was from the Vosges or Alsace region.

Max Schär (2010) proposed that Gall may have been of Irish descent but born and raised in the Alsace.

Above: (in red) Location of the Alsace region, France

According to the 9th-century hagiographies, Gall as a young man went to study at Bangor Abbey.

The monastery at Bangor had become renowned throughout Europe as a great centre of Christian learning.

Above: Bangor Abbey, Northern Ireland

Studying in Bangor at the same time as Gall was Columbanus, who with 12 companions, set out about the year 589.

Gall and his companions established themselves with Columbanus at first at Luxeuil in Gaul.

Above: Bobbio Abbey (Italy) stained glass image of Columbanus (543 – 615)

Above: Cloister area, Luxeuil Abbey, France

In 610, Columbanus was exiled by leaders opposed to Christianity and fled with Gall to Alemannia. 

Due to dynastic conflicts between Theuderic II (587 – 613) and his brother Theudebert II (585 – 612), Columbanus lost support in the Frankish Empire and had to leave Luxeuil. 

The further missionary journey led the community around Columban from Metz up the Rhine and via Zürich and Tuggen finally via Arbon to Bregenz. 

Above: Metz, France

Above: Altstadt Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Tuggen, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

In Bregenz, as in Arbon, they met a Christian community that had partially returned to paganism. 

Gall preached in the Alemannic language, in contrast to Columbanus, who did not speak it. 

Here, and before that in Tuggen, the religious people destroyed the statues of the local deities and threw them into the lake. 

As a result, these messengers of the faith antagonized some of the inhabitants, who complained to their Duke Gunzo. 

Two monks were killed after being ambushed.

(They were chasing a missing cow into the forest.)

The founding of a monastery in Bregenz failed and Columbanus traveled on to Bobbio in Italy in 612 to found a monastery at the invitation of the Lombard prince.

Above: Alemannia (orange) and Upper Burgundy (green), circa 1000 CE

Above: Bobbio, Italy

When Columbanus, Gall and their companions left Ireland for mainland Europe, they took with them learning and the written word.

Their effect on the historical record was significant as the books were painstakingly reproduced on vellum by monks across Europe.

Many of the Irish texts destroyed in Ireland during Viking raids were preserved in abbeys across the Channel.

Gall accompanied Columbanus on his voyage up the Rhine River to Bregenz, but when in 612 Columbanus travelled on to Italy from Bregenz, Gall had to remain behind due to illness and was nursed at Arbon.

Above: Columbanus and Gall on Lake Constance (Bodensee)

Above: Course of the Rhine River

Above: A view of modern Bregenz, Austria

Above: A view of modern Arbon, Switzerland

Gall remained in Alemannia, where, with several companions, he led the life of a hermit in the forests southwest of Lake Constance, near the source of the River Steinach.

Above: Steinach River, Mühlegg Gorge, St. Gallen

Cells were soon added for twelve monks whom Gall carefully instructed.

Gall was soon known in Switzerland as a powerful preacher.

When the See of Constance became vacant, the clergy who assembled to elect a new Bishop were unanimously in favour of Gall.

He, however, refused, pleading that the election of a stranger would be contrary to Church law.

Some time later, in the year 625, on the death of Eustasius, Abbott of Luxeuil, a monastery founded by Columbanus, members of that community were sent by the monks to request Gall to undertake the government of the monastery.

He refused to quit his life of solitude, and undertake any office of rank which might involve him in the cares of the world.

He was then an old man.

He died at the age of 95, circa 650, in Arbon.

His grave became a site of pilgrimage.

The supposed day of his death, 16 October, is still commemorated as Gallus Day.

Above: Gall, Tuggen coat of arms

From as early as the 9th century the fantastically embroidered Life of Saint Gallus was circulated.

Prominent was the story in which Gall delivered Fridiburga from a demon by which she was possessed.

Fridiburga was the betrothed of Sigibert III, King of the Franks, who had granted an estate at Arbon (which belonged to the royal treasury) to Gall so that he might found a monastery there.

Fridiburga was the daughter of the Alemannic Duke Gunzo. 

She was engaged to the Merovingian King Sigibert III (638 – 656), but she fell seriously ill shortly before the wedding. 

According to the Life of St. Gallus, Sigibert sent two bishops with rich gifts to Fridiburga to free her from the demon of illness, but in vain. 

Shortly afterwards, when Gall came to Überlingen, site of the Duke’s court, he healed Fridiburga. 

Above: Überlingen, Germany

She was then taken to Metz, where she was taken from the royal palace to the church of St. Stephen. 

On the advice of the bishops, Sigibert renounced his marriage to Fridiburga and then married Chimnechild in 646. 

Fridiburga lived as a nun in the Metz monastery of St. Peter, where she would became its abbess.

Above: Church of Saint Pierre aux Nonnains, Metz, France

Circa 612, Gall was, according to the lore, travelling south from the Bodensee into the forest.

Legend has it that Gall either fell over, or stumbled into, a briar patch.

After a long stay in Arbon, Gall decided in 612, together with the deacon Hiltibod of Arbon, to follow the Steinach River, which flows into Lake Constance

They moved along the stream into the Arbon forest – the whole area from Lake Constance to Appenzellerland was primeval forest at the time – and came to the waterfall at the Mühleggschlucht (mill slope canyon) gorge. 

Here Gall stumbled and fell into a thorn bush. 

He interpreted this as a divine sign to stay here. 

Above: Beginning of Mühleggschlucht Gorge near St. Georgen, Switzerland

Many depictions of Gall are therefore subtitled with the Latin Vulgate Bible verse:

Haec requies mea in saeculum saeculi.

Hic habitabo quoniam elegi eam.

(This is my resting place forever. 

I want to live here because I like it.)

Psalm 132: 14

Above: 8th century Vulgate Bible

Above: St. Gall and the founding of the monastery

Gall was sitting one evening warming his hands at a fire.

A bear emerged from the woods and charged.

The holy man rebuked the bear, so awed by his presence it stopped its attack and slunk off to the trees.

There it gathered firewood before returning to share the heat of the fire with Gall.

The legend says that for the rest of his days Gall was followed around by his companion the bear.

Images of Gall typically represent him standing with a bear.

Above: St. Gall with a bear

So either clumsiness or a trained bear led Gall to feel that he had received a sign from God – It’s nice that God has someone to communicate with. – and so chose the site to build his hermitage.

I guess nothing says security and sanctity more than accidental briar patches and firewood-fetching bears.

Above: Lyrics from “One of Us“, Joan Osborne

Afterwards, the people venerated Gall as a saint and prayed at his tomb for his intercession in times of danger.

After his death, a small church was erected, which developed into the Abbey of St. Gall, the nucleus of the Canton of St. Gallen.

The city of St. Gallen originated as an adjoining settlement of the Abbey.

Above: Plaque in honour of Gall, St. Gallen

Following Gall’s death, Charles Martel (688 – 741) had Othmar (689 – 759) appointed as custodian of St Gall’s relics.

Above: Charles Martel (688 – 741)

Othmar was of Alemannic descent, received his education in Rhaetia (Chur), was ordained priest, and for a time presided over a church in Rhaetia (Chur).

Above: Chur Cathedral

In 720 Waltram of Thurgau appointed Othmar superior over the cell of St. Gall and custodian of St Gall’s relics.

Othmar united into a monastery the monks that lived about the cell of St. Gall, according to the Rule of St. Columban, and became their first abbot.

Above: Collegiate Church of St. Gall and St. Othmar

He added a hospital and a school, which became the foundation upon which the famous Stiftsbibliothek (Monastery library) was built.

Above: The northwest wing of the monastery district from the outside – the Abbey Library is on the first and second floor

In 747, as a part of the reform movement of Church institutions in Alamannia, he introduced the Benedictine Rule, which was to remain in effect until the secularization and closure of the monastery in 1805.

Above: The oldest copy of the Rule of Saint Benedict, from the 8th century, Bodleian Library, Oxford, England

Othmar also provided for the needs of the surrounding community, building an almshouse as well as the first leprosarium (hospice for lepers) in Switzerland.

Above: Spinalonga, Crete, one of the last leper colonies in Europe, closed in 1957

When Carloman (713 – 754) renounced his throne in 747, he visited Othmar at St. Gall and gave him a letter to his brother Pepin (714 – 768), recommending Othmar and his monastery to the King’s liberality.

Othmar personally brought the letter to Pepin, and was kindly received.

Above: Charles Martel divides the realm between Pepin and Carloman

In 759, Counts Warin and Ruodhart tried to gain possession of some property belonging to St. Gall, Othmar fearlessly resisted their demands.

Hereupon they captured him while he was on a journey to Konstanz, and held him prisoner, first at the castle of Bodmann, then on the island of Werd in the Rhine River.

Above: Werd Island

At the latter place he died, after an imprisonment of six months, and was buried.

Above: Martyrdom of St. Othmar

Othmar’s cult began to spread soon after his death.

He is one of the most popular saints in Switzerland.

In 769 his body was transferred to the Monastery of St. Gall.

As the weather was very hot, when the men rowed his body across Lake Constance (Bodensee), they became extremely thirsty.

Legends say that the only barrel of wine they had left did not become empty, regardless of how much they drank.

Therefore, the wine barrel became one of Othmar’s attributes.

His cult was officially recognized in 864 by Bishop of Konstanz Solomon I (d. 871).

Above: Othmar of St. Gallen

Interesting side note connected with Solomon I:

In 847, his diocese was the first to be disturbed by the preachings of a false prophetess named Thiota.

Above: Cathedral of Konstanz, Germany

Thiota was a heretical Christian prophetess originally from Alemannia.

In 847 she began prophesying that the world would end that year.

Her story is known from the Annales Fuldenses which records that she disturbed the diocese of Solomon before arriving in Mainz.

A large number of men and women were persuaded by her “presumption” as well as even some clerics.

In fear, many gave her gifts and sought prayers.

Finally, the bishops of Gallica Belgica ordered her to attend a synod in St Alban’s Church in Mainz.

She was eventually forced to confess that she had only made up her predictions at the urging of a priest and for lucrative gain.

She was publicly flogged and stripped of her ministry, which the Fuldensian annalist says she had taken up “unreasonably against the customs of the Church.”

Shamed, she ceased to prophesy thereafter.

Above: 11th century Carolina copy Annales Fuldenses, Humanist Library, Schlettstadt, Alsace, France
The report is open for the year 855 with the earthquake in Mainz.

In 867 Othmar was solemnly entombed in the new church of St. Othmar at St. Gall.

He is represented in art as a Benedictine abbot, generally holding a little barrel in his hand, an allusion to the alleged miracle, that a barrel of Othmar never became empty, no matter how much he took from it to give to the poor.

Above: Statue of St. Othmar

Two monks of the Abbey of St Gall, Magnus von Füssen and Theodor, founded the monasteries in Füssen and Kempten in the Allgäu region.

Above: Statue of Magnus of Füssen

Above: St. Lawrence Church, Kempten Abbey, Allgäu, Bavaria, Germany

With the increase in the number of monks the Abbey grew stronger also economically.

Much land in Thurgau, Zürichgau, and in the rest of Alemannia as far as the Neckar River was transferred to the Abbey.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

Under Abbot Waldo of Reichenau (740 – 814) copying of manuscripts was undertaken and a famous library was gathered.

Numerous Anglo-Saxon and Irish monks came to copy manuscripts here.

Above: Abbot Waldo of Reichenau meets Charlemagne

At Charlemagne’s (747 – 814) request, Pope Adrian I (700 – 795) sent distinguished chanters from Rome, who propagated the use of the Gregorian chant.

Above: 15th century miniature depicting Pope Adrian I greeting Charlemagne

In 744, the Alemannic nobleman Beata sold several properties to the Abbey in order to finance his journey to Rome.

Above: St. Peter’s Cathedral, Vatican City

In the 830s, under Abbot Gozbert (d. 850), Saint Gall became a cultural centre, as many still existing documents from his time affirm.

He paid special attention to the Abbey Library and had close ties to one of the main scribes there, Wolfcoz.

Above: Abbey Library

Wolfcoz I was a medieval scribe and painter of illuminated manuscripts, working in the scriptorium of the Abbey of Saint Gall.

He entered the monastery some time before 813.

Fourteen known documents by Wolfcoz’s hand were created between 816 and 822, including parts of the Wolfcoz Psalter and the Zürich Psalter.

In Wolfcoz’ time, the scriptorium of the Abbey entered a golden age, producing manuscripts of high quality and establishing the Abbey Library of Saint Gall as a centre of Alemannic German culture.

The Abbey Library still has three manuscripts penned by Wolfcoz. 

He developed the Allemanic minuscule and also the decoration of initials.

Above: Scribe in a scriptorium, Miracles de Notre Dame

Gozbert was the recipient (and employer?) of the Plan of Saint Gall, which was made around 820 in Reichenau.

How closely his monastery actually resembled this ideal plan is unknown. 

Above: The Carolingian monastery plan of St. Gallen is the oldest surviving architectural drawing in the West

The monastery was eventually freed from its dependence upon the Bishopric of Konstanz.

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Konstanz

King Louis the Pious confirmed in 833 the immunity of the Abbey and allowed the monks the free choice of their abbot.

Above: King Louis / Ludwig the Pious (778 – 840)

In 854, finally, the Abbey of St Gall reached its full autonomy by King Louis the German (806 – 876) releasing the Abbey from the obligation to pay tithes to the Bishop of Konstanz.

Above: Louis the German (bottom) genuflecting at Christ on the cross

From this time until the 10th century, the Abbey flourished.

It was home to several famous scholars, including Notker of Liège (940 – 1008), Notker the Stammerer (840 – 912), Notker Labeo (950 – 1022), Tuotilo (850 – 915) and Hartker (who developed the antiphonal liturgical books (choir books) for the Abbey).

Above: Notker of Liège

Above: Notker the Stammerer

Above: Notker Labeo

Above: Copy of Tuotilo’s Cod. Sang. 53, Abbey Library, St. Gallen

Above: Printed antiphonary (ca. 1700), open to Vespers of Easter Sunday, Musée de l’Assistance Publique, Hôpitaux de Paris

During the 9th century a new, larger Church was built and the Library was expanded.

Manuscripts on a wide variety of topics were purchased by the Abbey and copies were made.

Over 400 manuscripts from this time have survived and are still in the Library today.

Above: Abbey Library

Emperor Louis the Pious (778 – 840) made the monastery an imperial institution.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

In 926 the Magyars threatened the Abbey and the books had to be removed to Reichenau for safety.

Above: Hungarian invasions, 9th and 10th centuries CE

Not all the books were returned.

Above: Aerial view of Reichenau Island

Hungarian troops entered Swabia, as allies of the new Italian King, Hugh the Great (880 – 947), besieged Augsburg, and then occupied the Abbey of Saint Gallen, where they spared the life of the monk Heribald, whose accounts give a detailed description about their traditions and way of life. 

Above: Hugh the Great

Above: Town Hall Palace, Augsburg, Germany

The “Golden Age” of St. Gallen ended abruptly on 1 May 926, after travellers reported in the spring that the Hungarians were already advancing on their campaigns as far as Lake Constance. 

Since the dukes could not build up a joint defense in the divided East Frankish kingdom, they had nothing to oppose the plundering and pillaging gangs.

Above: Division of the Frankish Empire, 843

Abbot Engilbert decided to bring the students, the elderly and the sick to safety in the moated castle near Lindau, which belonged to the monastery.

Above: Lindau Island, Germany

Many of the writings were hidden in the friendly monastery of Reichenau.

The monks took themselves and the valuable cult objects to a refuge of safety in the Sitterswald. 

Above: Catholic Church, Sitterswald, Switzerland

At her express request, the hermit Wiborada was the only one left behind in the walled-up church of St. Mangen in the deserted town.

Above: St. Mangen Church, St. Gallen

From the Abbey the Magyars sent minor units to reconnoitre and plunder the surroundings.

When the Hungarians raided the city, they found nothing of value. 

They damaged buildings and altars and burned down the town’s wooden houses. 

The attackers also found Wiborada, but no entrance to their walled-up hermitage. 

Fire couldn’t harm her or the church, so the Hungarians uncovered the roof and killed her. 

The Hungarians did not dare to attack the monks’ refuge because of its inaccessible location. 

They were even attacked by the retreating monks. 

After the Hungarians left, the monks returned with the residents and rebuilt the damaged and burnt down houses. 

One of their units killed Wiborada who lived as an anchoress (female hermit) in a wood nearby.

Above: Church of St. Mangen

Wiborada was born to a wealthy noble family in Swabia.

When they invited the sick and poor into their home, Wiborada proved a capable nurse.

Her brother Hatto became a priest.

A pilgrimage to Rome influenced Hatto to decide to become a monk at the Abbey of Saint Gall, a decision which Wiborada supported.

After the death of their parents, Wiborada joined Hatto and became a Benedictine at the Abbey of Saint Gall.

Above: Portrayal of the young Ulrich with Wiborada

Wiborada became settled at the monastery and Hatto taught her Latin so that she could chant the Liturgy of the Hours.

There, she occupied herself by making Hatto’s clothes and helping to bind many of the books in the monastery library.

At this time, it appears that Wiborada was charged with some type of serious infraction or wrongdoing, and was subjected to the medieval practice of ordeal by fire to prove her innocence.

(Ordeal by fire was one form of torture.

The ordeal of fire typically required that the accused walk a certain distance, usually 9 feet (2.7 metres) or a certain number of paces, usually three, over red-hot ploughshares or holding a red-hot iron.

Innocence was sometimes established by a complete lack of injury, but it was more common for the wound to be bandaged and re-examined three days later by a priest, who would pronounce that God had intervened to heal it, or that it was merely festering — in which case the suspect would be exiled ot put to death.)

Above: After being accused of adultery Cunigunde of Luxembourg (975 – 104) proved her innocence by walking over red-hot ploughshares.

Although she was exonerated, the embarrassment probably influenced her next decision: withdrawing from the world and becoming an ascetic.

When she petitioned to become an anchoress, Solomon III, Bishop of Konstanz (r. 890 – 919), arranged for her to stay in a cell next to the Church of Saint George near the monastery, where she remained for four years before relocating to a cell adjoining the church of Magnus of Füssen in 891.

She became renowned for her austerity, and was said to have a gift of prophecy, both of which drew admirers and hopeful students.

Above: Wiborada with Solomon III, Bishop of Konstanz

One of these, a woman named Rachildis, whom Wiborada had cured of a disease, joined her as an anchoress.

Above: Healing of a sick person with the comb relic of Wiborada

A young student at St. Gall, Ulrich (890 – 973), is said to have visited Wiborada often.

Wiborda supposedly prophesied his elevation to the Episcopate of Augsburg.

(Ulrich was the first saint to be canonized not by a local authority but by the Pope.)

Above: Statue of Ulrich von Augsburg (890 – 973), St. Agatha Chapel, Disentis, Graubünden, Switzerland

In 925, Wiborada predicted a Hungarian invasion of her region.

Her warning allowed the priests and religious of St. Gall and St. Magnus to hide their books and wine and escape into caves in nearby hills. 

The most precious manuscripts were transferred to the monastery at Reichenau Island.

However, the main refuge castle for the monks and the Abbot was the Waldburg in the Sitterwood.

Abbot Engilbert urged Wiborada to escape to safety, but she refused to leave her cell.

On 8 May 926 the Magyar marauders reached St. Gall.

They burned down St. Magnus and broke into the roof of Wiborada’s cell.

Upon finding her kneeling in prayer, they clove her skull with a fokos (shepherd’s axe).

Above: Earliest representation of Wiborada

Her companion Rachildis was not killed, and lived another 21 years, during which her disease returned.

She spent the rest of her life learning patience through suffering.

Wiborada’s refusal to leave her cell and the part she played in saving the lives of the priests and religious of her convent have merited her the title of martyr.

Above: The martyrdom of Wiborada

On 26 April 937, a fire broke out and destroyed much of the Abbey and the adjoining settlement, though the library was undamaged.

About 954 they started to protect the monastery and buildings by a surrounding wall.

Circa 974 Abbot Notker (r. 971 – 975) (about whom almost nothing is known, except that he was the nephew of Notker Physicus (d. 975) – “the physician“) finalized the walling.

The adjoining settlements started to become the town of St Gall. 

Above: Abbey and surroundings, St. Gallen

The Abbey was the northernmost place where a sighting of the 1006 supernova was recorded, likely the brightest observed stellar event in recorded history.

Above: Remnant of Supernova 1006

In 1207, Abbot Ulrich von Sax was made a Prince of the Holy Roman Empire by King Philip of Germany (1177 – 1208).

Above: Coat of arms of the von Sax dynasty

The Abbey thus became a Princely Abbey (Reichsabtei).

As the Abbey became more involved in politics, it entered a period of decline.

Above: Philip of Swabia (1177 – 1208)

The city of St. Gallen proper progressively freed itself from the rule of the Abbot, acquiring imperial immediacy, and by the late 15th century was recognized as a Free Imperial City.

By 1353 the guilds, headed by the cloth weavers guild, gained control of the civic government.

In 1415 the City bought its liberty from German King Sigismund (1368 – 1437).

During the 14th century Humanists were allowed to carry off some of the rare texts from the Abbey Library.

Above: Sigismund of Luxembourg (1368 – 1437)

In the late 14th and early 15th centuries, the farmers of the Abbot’s personal estates (known as Appenzell, from the Latin abbatis cella meaning “cell (i.e. estate) of the Abbot“) began seeking independence.

In 1401, the first of the Appenzell Wars (1401 – 1429) broke out, and following the Appenzell victory at Stoss in 1405 they became allies of the Swiss Confederation in 1411.

Above: Battle of Vögelinsegg

Above: Battle of Stoss Pass (1405) Memorial

During the Appenzell Wars, the town of St. Gallen often sided with Appenzell against the Abbey.

So when Appenzell allied with the Confederation, the town of St. Gallen followed just a few months later.

The Abbey became an ally of several members of the Swiss Confederation (Zürich, Luzern, Schwyz and Glarus) in 1451, while Appenzell and St. Gallen became full members of the Swiss Confederation in 1454.

In 1457 the town of St. Gallen became officially free from the Abbey.

Above: Coat of arms of the City of St. Gallen

In 1468 Abbot Ulrich Rösch bought the County of Toggenburg from the representative of its counts, after the family died out in 1436.

In 1487 Rösch founded a monastery at Rorschach on Lake Constance, to which he planned to move.

Above: Rorschach, Switzerland

However, he encountered stiff resistance from the St. Gallen citizenry, other clerics, and the Appenzell nobility in the Rhine Valley who were concerned about their holdings.

Above: Abbot Ulrich Rösch (1463 – 1491)

The town of St. Gallen wanted to restrict the increase of power of the Abbey and simultaneously increase the power of the town.

The Mayor of St. Gallen, Ulrich Varnbüler, established contact with farmers and Appenzell residents (led by the fanatical Hermann Schwendiner) who were seeking an opportunity to weaken the Abbot.

Initially, Varnbüler protested to the Abbot and the representatives of the four sponsoring Confederate cantons (Zürich, Lucerne, Schwyz, and Glarus) against the construction of the new Abbey in Rorschach.

Then on 28 July 1489 he had armed troops from St. Gallen and Appenzell destroy the buildings already under construction.

Above: Portrait of Ulrich Varnbüler (1432 – 1496), Albrecht Dürer

When the Abbot complained to the Confederates about the damages and demanded full compensation, Varnbüler responded with a counter suit and in cooperation with Schwendiner rejected the arbitration efforts of the non-partisan Confederates.

He motivated the clerics from Wil to Rorschach to discard their loyalty to the Abbey and spoke against the Abbey at a town meeting in Waldkirch, where the popular league was formed.

He was confident that the four sponsoring cantons would not intervene with force, due to the prevailing tensions between the Confederation and the Swabian League.

He was strengthened in his resolve by the fact that the people of St. Gallen elected him again to the highest magistrate in 1490.

Above: The Abbot’s coat of arms

However, in early 1490 the four cantons decided to carry out their duty to the Abbey and to invade the St. Gallen canton with an armed force.

The people of Appenzell and the local clerics submitted to this force without noteworthy resistance, while the city of St. Gallen braced for a fight to the finish.

However, when they learned that their compatriots had given up the fight, they lost confidence.

The end result was that they concluded a peace pact that greatly restricted the city’s powers and burdened the city with serious penalties and reparations payments.

Above: Old houses of St. Gallen

Varnbüler and Schwendiner fled to the court of King Maximilian (1459 – 1519) and lost all their property in St. Gallen and Appenzell.

However, the Abbot’s reliance on the Swiss to support him reduced his position almost to that of a “subject district“.

Above: Maxmilian I, Holy Roman Emperor

The town adopted the Reformation in 1524, while the Abbey remained Catholic, which damaged relations between the town and Abbey.

Both the Abbot and a representative of the town were admitted to the Swiss Tagsatzung (parliament) as the closest associates of the Confederation.

In the 16th century the Abbey was raided by Calvinist groups, who scattered many of the old books. 

Above: Tadsatzung, Baden, 1531

In 1530, Abbot Diethelm began a restoration that stopped the decline and led to an expansion of the schools and library.

Under Abbot Pius Reher (r. 1630 – 1654) a printing press was started.

Above: Pius Reher (1597 – 1654)

In 1712 during the Toggenburg War (also called the Second War of Villmergen), the Abbey of St. Gall was pillaged by the Confederation.

They took most of the books and manuscripts to Zürich and Bern.

For security, the Abbey was forced to request the protection of the townspeople of St. Gallen.

Until 1457 the townspeople had been serfs of the Abbey, but they had grown in power until they were protecting the Abbey.

Above: Toggenburg War map – Protestant (green) / Catholic (yellow) / Neutral (grey)

Following the disturbances, the Abbey was still the largest religious city-state in Switzerland, with over 77,000 inhabitants.

A final attempt to expand the abbey resulted in the demolition of most of the medieval monastery.

The new structures, including the Cathedral by architect Peter Thumb (1681–1766), were designed in the late Baroque style and constructed between 1755 and 1768.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

The large and ornate new Abbey did not remain a monastery for very long.

In 1798 the Prince-Abbot’s secular power was suppressed and the Abbey was secularized.

The monks were driven out and moved into other abbeys.

The Abbey became a separate See (a bishop’s ecclesiastical jurisdiction) in 1846, with the Abbey church as its Cathedral and a portion of the monastic buildings reserved for the Bishop.

Above: Abbey

The Abbey of St. Gall, the monastery and especially its celebrated scriptorium played an illustrious part in Catholic and intellectual history until it was secularised in 1798.

The former Abbey church became a Cathedral in 1848.

Since 1983 the abbey precinct has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as “a perfect example of a great Carolingian monastery”.

Above: Abbey

St. Gall is the name of a wheel shaped hard cheese made from the milk of Friesian cows, which won a Gold Medal at the World Cheese Awards held in Dublin 2008.

Canadian writer Robertson Davies, in his book, The Manticore, interprets the legend in Swiss psychologist Carl Jung (1875 – 1961) terms.

In the final scene of the novel where David Staunton is celebrating Christmas with Lizelloti Fitziputli, Magnus Eisengrim, and Dunstan Ramsay, he is given a gingerbread bear.

Ramsay explains that Gall made a pact of peace with a bear who was terrorizing the citizens of the nearby village.

They would feed the bear gingerbread and the bear would refrain from eating them.

The parable is presented as a Jungian exhortation to make peace with one’s dark side.

This Jungian interpretation is however incompatible with Catholic Orthodoxy which Gall promoted.

It is all a matter of what you choose to believe.

Even today, the Abbey Library is celebrated as Switzerland’s finest secular Rococo interior and one of the oldest libraries in Europe with its huge collection of rare medieval books and manuscripts.

The visitor enters beneath a sign that reads YUCHS IATREION (Greek for “Pharmacy of the Soul).

By the entrance are dozens of oversized felt grey slippers.

Slip your shoe-clad feet into a pair, to protect the inlaid wooden floor.

The 28m X 10m room is dynamic.

Designed by the same Peter Thumb who worked on the Cathedral, the Library’s orthodox Baroque architecture is overlaid with opulent Rococo decoration.

The four ceiling frescoes by Josef Wannenmacher depict with bold trompe l’oeil perspectives the early Christian theological Councils of Nicaea (modern Iznik, Turkey), Constantinople (modern Istanbul), Ephesus (modern Selçuk, Turkey), and Chalcedon (Kadiköy district, Istanbul).

Above: The Council of Nicaea, with Arius depicted as defeated by the council, lying under the feet of Emperor Constantine

Above: Miniature of the Council of Constantinople (AD 381). Emperor Theodosius I and a crowd of bishops seated on a semicircular bench, on either side of an enthroned Gospel Book. An heretic, Macedonius, occupies the lower left corner of the miniature.

Above: Council of Ephesus (431)

Above: Council of Chalcedon (451)

Among the wealth of smaller frescoes set among the ceiling stucco, in the corner directly above the entrance door, you will spot the Venerable Bede, a 7th century English monk from Northumbria who wrote one of the first histories of England.

Above: The Venerable Bede (672 – 735), The Last Chapter, J. Boyle Penrose

Above: Statue of the Venerable Bede, St. Gallen Abbey

The books are ranged on floor-to-ceiling shelves all around.

Its list of cultural treasures among its over 160,000 volumes is extraordinary.

There are more Irish manuscripts in St. Gallen than there are in Dublin, with 15 handwritten examples including a Latin manuscript of the Gospels dating from 750.

Other works include:

  • an astronomical textbook written in 300 BCE
  • copies made in the 5th century of works by Virgil, Horace and other classical authors
  • texts written by the Venerable Bede in his original Northumbrian language
  • the oldest book to have survived in German, dating from the 8th century

Above: Abbey Library

One of the more interesting documents in the Stiftsbibliothek is a copy of Priscian’s (circa 500) Institutiones grammaticae, (the standard textbook for the study of Latin during the Middle Ages), which contains the poem Is acher in gaith in-nocht, written in Old Irish.

Above: Institutiones Grammaticae, 1290, Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, Firenze (Florence), Italy

The Library also preserves a unique 9th century document, known as the Plan of St. Gall, the only surviving major architectural drawing from the roughly 700-year period between the fall of the Western Roman Empire and the 13th century.

The Plan drawn was never actually built, and was so named because it was kept at the famous medieval monastery library, where it remains to this day.

The Plan was an ideal of what a well-designed and well-supplied monastery should have, as envisioned by one of the synods held at Aachen (814 – 817) for the reform of monasticism in the Frankish Empire during the early years of Emperor Louis the Pious.

Above: Plan of Saint Gall (simplified)

A late 9th century drawing of St. Paul lecturing an agitated crowd of Jews and Gentiles, part of a copy of a Pauline epistles produced at and still held by the Monastery, was included in a medieval drawing show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City in the summer of 2009.

A reviewer noted that the artist had “a special talent for depicting hair, with the saint’s beard ending in curling droplets of ink“.

Above: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City

St. Gall is noted for its early use of the neume, the basic element of Western and Eastern systems of musical notation prior to the invention of five-line staff notation.

The earliest extant manuscripts are from the 9th or 10th century.

A few treasures of the Library are displayed in glass cases, with exhibits changed regularly.

Incongruously (as in “What the Hell is this doing here?“), there is an Egyptian mummy dating from 700 BCE, a gift to the mayor of St. Gallen in the early 19th century.

Unsure of what to do with it, he plonked it in this corner of the Library, where it has since remained.

Above: Abbey Library

Diagonally opposite stands a beautifully intricate 2.3m-high globe depicting both celestial and earthly maps.

It is, in fact, a replica.

The original, dating from 1570, was stolen by Zürich troops in 1712 and stands in the National Museum.

To resolve the dispute, Canton Zürich agreed to produce this copy, which was completed in 2009.

Above: Abbey Library

I find myself thinking of the reverence that is given to copies.

A globe is replicated and its replication is mentioned in the smallest print possible with the least fanfare required.

Those who do not question its authenticity need not know it isn’t the original.

This leads to me to ponder:

How far from the origins of our religions have we strayed?

We are told that Christ existed but the proof lies solely in the Gospels which promote His Name.

We are told that Muhammad existed but it is blasphemy to even sketch a likeness of how the Prophet may have looked.

We choose to believe in that which we can neither prove nor disprove.

Much like love, faith is manifested not in what is professed but rather by how it is manifested in the lives of its true believers.

By deeds we decide our dedication.

By actions we activate our ardour.

Above: Prevailing world religions map

All of which leaves me thinking of the Chris Nolan film The Dark Knight….

It’s not about what I want, it’s about what’s FAIR!

You thought we could be decent men in an indecent time.

But you were wrong.

The world is cruel and the only morality in a cruel world is chance.

Unbiased, unprejudiced, fair.

Above: Aaron Eckhart as Harvey Dent/Two Face, The Dark Knight

Because sometimes…

The truth isn’t good enough.

Sometimes people deserve more.

Sometimes people deserve to have their faith rewarded.

Above: Christian Bale as Batman / Bruce Wayne, The Dark Knight

Perhaps this is why we build cathedrals and mosques and temples?

To show how our faith has rewarded us?

Above: Ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Nothing left to do
When you know that you’ve been taken
Nothing left to do
When you’re begging for a crumb
Nothing left to do
When you’ve got to go on waiting
Waiting for the miracle to come

Waiting for the Miracle“, Leonard Cohen

Above: Leonard Cohen (1934 – 2016)

According to the 2000 census, 31,978 or 44.0% were Roman Catholic, while 19,578 or 27.0% belonged to the Swiss Reformed Church.

Of the rest of the population, there were 112 individuals (or about 0.15% of the population) who belong to the Christian Catholic faith, there were 3,253 individuals (or about 4.48% of the population) who belong to the Orthodox Church, and there were 1,502 individuals (or about 2.07% of the population) who belong to another Christian church.

There were 133 individuals (or about 0.18% of the population) who were Jewish, and 4,856 (or about 6.69% of the population) who were Muslim.

There were 837 individuals (or about 1.15% of the population) who belonged to another church (not listed on the census), 7,221 (or about 9.94% of the population) belonged to no church, were agnostic or atheist, and 3,156 individuals (or about 4.35% of the population) did not answer the question.

There are 28 sites in St. Gallen that are listed as Swiss Heritage Sites of National Significance, including four religious buildings:

  • the Abbey of St. Gallen

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

  • the former Dominican Abbey of St. Katharina

The St. Gallen Monastery of St. Catherine has had a turbulent history since it was founded in 1228.

The founding document dates dates back to 30 June 1228.

It is a late Gothic splendour – beautiful and one of the oldest buildings in the city.

The history of the order goes back to the 13th and 14th centuries.

The monastery was named after the martyr Catherine of Alexandria.

Until 1266 St. Catherine was a monastery of the Augustinians, until in 1368 the resident nuns adopted the Dominican rule.

The great fire of 20 April 1418 greatly affected the monastery.

The last woman entering the monastery, Katharina von Watt, was a sister of the longtime Mayor and patron of the Reformation, Joachim von Watt (Vadian).

In 1527 the monastery became a victim of the Reformation:

Council servants commissioned by the authorities entered into the monastery church and destroyed the cult objects.

In 1555 the last sisters left the St. Gallen Monastery of St. Catherine.

Today only the cloister and the church have survived from the monastery complex.

You can walk through the cloister and there is a library which can be visited.

There is also a old church (of course) but the opening times are said to be very special…

Above: The Monastery of St. Catherine, St. Gallen

  • the Reformed Church of St. Lawrence

The St. Laurenzen Church is the Evangelical Reformed parish church of the city of St. Gallen. 

The construction of the first church is estimated to be in the middle of the 12th century. 

The church was the political, religious and social center of the city republic of St. Gallen for almost 300 years and has had a lasting influence on the history of the city.

Today it is still a meeting room for the town’s local citizens. 

The church takes its name from the martyr Lawrence of Rome to whom it was dedicated. It is classified as a building worthy of national protection (highest of the three protection levels) and as a monument of national importance it is therefore under federal monument protection.

Above: Church of St. Lawrence, St. Gallen

  • the Roman Catholic parish church of St. Maria Neudorf

Above: St. Maria Neudorf, St. Gallen

One of the most important organs in Switzerland is located in the church of St. Maria Neudorf in the east of the city of St. Gallen. 

Their history and construction are not commonplace. 

It is a monumental organ that was built in 1927 by organ builder Willisau according to the principles of the Alsatian organ reform. 

It is the largest organ in the city of St. Gallen and, with its remote control, is one of the largest surviving organs from this period.

Above: Organ, St. Maria Neudorf

Also worth viewing are:

  • Greek Orthodox Church of St. Constantine and St. Helena with its Athonite icons and a stained glass window of the Last Judgment

Above: Greek Orthodox Church of St. Constantine and St. Helena, St. Gallen

Above: St. Constantine and St. Helena

Above: Details of the Last Judgment

  • Protestant Church of Linsebühl, an impressive new Renaissance building dating from 1897

The striking Linsebühl Church, built in 1895-1897 in neo-Renaissance style, is a little off the beaten track of traffic but still central. 

The richly decorated interior was extensively restored in 1992 and offers a festive and, at the same time, a somewhat playful atmosphere with excellent acoustics for music and singing.

The organ by the Goll company from Luzern, built in 1897 and restored in 1992, with pneumatic action, three manuals, a pedal and 38 registers, is one of the few surviving purely romantic organs and is known far beyond the city and canton borders.


In addition to the usually well-attended church services, some concerts take place in the Linsebühl church.

With its large forecourt and neighboring parish hall, it is also very suitable for weddings and other festive occasions.


With its galleries, the Church offers space for 810 people (The nave alone can hold ​​512 people).

Above: Linsebühl Reformed Church, St. Gallen

  • Catholic church of St. Martin in the Bruggen district, this concrete church built in 1936 was at that time glaringly modern

This third Catholic Church of St. Martin Bruggen was completed in 1936 next to its predecessor church. 

The first chapel was consecrated in 1600 and converted into a proper church in 1639. 

The second church was completed on the site of the first in 1785 and received a new tower in 1808. 

After the new building and the consecration of today’s church, the southwestern old church was demolished.

Above: St. Martin Church, Bruggen, St. Gallen

The church is named after Saint Martin of Tours. 

A life-size equestrian statue of him stands in front of the church, together with a beggar.

Above: St. Martin Bruggen Reformed Church, St. Gallen

(While Martin was a soldier in the Roman army and stationed in Gaul (modern-day France), he experienced a vision, which became the most-repeated story about his life.

One winter’s day, at the gates of Amiens, Martin met a poor, unclothed man. 

Martin was carrying nothing but his guns and military coat. 

In a merciful act, he divided his cloak with the sword and gave half to the poor man. 

The following night Christ appeared to Martin in a dream, dressed in half the cloak that he had given the beggar. 

I was naked and you clothed me….

What you did to one of these least of these my brothers, you did to me.” (Matthew 25: 35 – 40) )

Above: Martin and the beggar, El Greco

  • Synagogue St. Gallen, built by architects Chiodera and Tschudy, it is the only synagogue in the Lake Constance region that has been preserved in its original state.

Above: St. Gallen Synagogue

The first document mentioning Jews in St. Gall is dated in 1268.

In 1292 two houses in the town were inhabited by Jews.

On 23 February 1349, during the Black Death, Jewish inhabitants were burned or driven out.

Jews were not allowed to settle in St. Gall again until the 19th century.

The Jews, who then lived in a special quarter, the “Hinterlauben” or “Brotlauben” were accused of having poisoned the wells.

St. Gallen followed the example of other towns near the Lake of Constance, imprisoning the Jews, burning them alive, or at best expelling them and confiscating their property.

For a long time after this event no Jews lived in St. Gall.

In modern times the right of settlement was granted only very exceptionally to a few Jews, who had to pay heavily for the concession.

Even after the wars of independence the St. Gallen “Jews’ Law” of 15 May 1818, though not strictly enforced by the government, placed the Jews under severe restrictions.

These laws remained on the statute books until the emancipation of the Jews of Switzerland in February 1863.

On 8 April 1864, the present Jewish community was constituted, the members having moved to St. Gall from the nearby town of Hohenems (Austria).

On 21 September 1881, the present synagogue was consecrated.

Religious services were organized, Hebrew and religious classes founded.

Soon afterward the cemetery was laid out.

The dead had previously been conveyed to one of the neighboring communities.

Above: Jewish cemetery, St. Gallen

Jews played a prominent role in the St. Gall textile industry until 1912, especially in the famous embroidery branch.

In 1919 refugees from Eastern Europe settled in St. Gallen, forming a separate community.

German and Austrian Jewish refugees began crossing the border into the Canton in 1938, and a refugee care organization was set up there.

Above: Judaica – candlesticks, etrog box, shofar, Torah pointer, Tanach, natla

From 1939 to 1944 the town was the centre for preparing Jewish refugee children for Youth Aliyah to Palestine.

Above: Youth Aliyah commemorative stamp

In 1944, 1,350 Jews (mostly Hungarian) from the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp were brought to St. Gallen.

Above: A British Army bulldozer pushes dead bodies into a mass grave at Belsen, Germany, 19 April 1945

A year later 1,200 Jews from Theresienstadt concentration camp arrived.

Above: Memorial to Jewish Victims, Terezin (formerly Theresienstadt), Czech Republic

Above: Three Jewish children rescued from Theresienstadt recuperate in St. Gallen, 11 February 1945

Police officer Paul Grüninger, later designated as “Righteous among the Gentiles“, helped Jewish refugees after 1938.

Above: Righteous Among the Nations medal

He was ousted from office, lost his pension, and died in misery.

Years after his death, citizens fought successfully for his posthumous rehabilitation.

A square in St. Gallen is named after him.

Above: Paul Grüninger (1891 – 1972)

Above: Grüningerplatz, St. Gallen

Above: Paul Brüninger Bridge between Diepoldsau, Germany and Hohenems, Austria

The Jewish inhabitants of St. Gallen increased numerically over the course of time through frequent migrations from the communities of Endingen and Lengnau, Gailingen (Baden), Laupheim (Württemberg), and from other places.

The Jews of St. Gallen exceed 500 in a total population of over 33,000.

Above: Entry to the Jewish Museum of Switzerland, Basel

The El Hidaje Mosque is an unassuming building that received public attention when a man was shot dead during a Friday prayer on 22 August 2014.

Police arrested an individual with a handgun when they were called after reports of gunfire.

A man was found dead in the mosque’s prayer room, a police spokesman said.

Around 300 people were reportedly in the mosque for Friday prayers at the time of the shooting.

It was not immediately clear what the motive may have been.

Witnesses believe the killing may have been linked to a family dispute dating back a number of years, Swiss newspaper 20 Minutes reported.

The El-Hidaje mosque is used by St Gallen’s Albanian Muslim community.

Fehim Dragusha, a former Imam at the mosque, told Switzerland’s Radio FM1:

Albanians and Muslims should not bring problems from their home country into Switzerland.

Above: El-Hidaje Mosque, St. Gallen

There are at least 50 places of worship across St. Gallen where people can gather to publicly proclaim their devotion to God.

And in none of them do I get a sense of the presence of God (presuming His existence) within.

This is not to say that others are not inspired by their visits to these sanctuaries of faith, but I am not one of them.

I defend a person’s right to believe (or not believe) what they will providing this practice does no harm to others

For myself what religious feeling I may have experienced has always been in the midst of walking.

An activity of late that has gone sadly neglected since my return to Eskişehir last month, though walking is an activity that requires few expenses to do.

We live in a time where the lines of conflict have been drawn between secrecy and openness, between the consolidation and the dispersal of power, between privatization and public ownership, between power and life.

Walking has always been on the side of the latter.

Walking itself has not changed the world – though it does seem that so many religious leaders have found their particular testaments during such activity – but walking has been a rite, a tool, a reinforcement of a civil society that stands up to violence, to fear, and to repression.

Indeed, it is hard to imagine a viable civil society without the free association and the knowledge of the terrain that comes with walking.

A sequestered or passive population is not quite a citizenry.

Insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space and will to walk and against the version of humanity that act embodies.

One force is the filling-up of “the time in-between“, the time between places.

This time has been deplored as a waste, so it is filled with earphones and mobile phone screens.

The ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the useless, has evaporated, as does appreciation of being outside – including outside the familiar.

Our mobile phones serve as a buffer against solitude, silence and thought.

We have become immobile and inactive.

We have forgotten that our bodies are built to be used, that our bodies were not meant to be passive, that our bodies are inherent sources of power.

While walking, the body and the mind can work together, so that thinking becomes a physical, rhythmic act.

Spirituality enters in as we move through urban and rural planes of existence.

Past and present combine as we relive events in our personal histories.

Each walk moves through space like a thread through fabric, sewing it together into a continuous experience – unlike the way other modes of travel chop up time and space.

It starts with a step and then another and then another, adding up like taps on a drum to a rhythm, the rhythm of walking.

Walking is an investigation, a ritual, a meditation.

We invest a universal act with particular meanings, from the erotic to the spiritual, from the revolutionary to the artistic.

A desk is no place to think on a large scale.

An absolutely new prospect is a great happiness and I can still get this any afternoon.

Two or three hours’ walking will carry me to as strange a country as I expect ever to see.

A single farmhouse which I had not seen before is sometimes as good as the dominions of the King of Dahomey.

There is in fact a sort of harmony discoverable between the capabilities of the landscape and the threescore and ten years of human life.

It will never become quite familiar to you.

Henry David Thoreau

Above: Henry David Thoreau (1817 – 1862)

It is the unpredictable incidents between official events that add up to a life, the incalculable that gives it value.

Walking is about being outside, in public space, but public space is being abandoned and eroded, eclipsed by technologies and services that don’t require leaving home.

Outside has been shadowed by fear, for strange places are always more frightening than familiar ones, so the less one wanders the more alarming it seems, and so the fewer the wanderers the more lonely and dangerous it really becomes.

Above: Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust (Dutch edition)

The newer the place, the less public space.

Malls have replaced Main Street, the streets have no sidewalks, buildings are entered through the garage, City Hall has no plaza, and everywhere everything has walls and bars and gates.

Fear has created the landscape where to be a pedestrian is to be under suspicion.

Too many have forgotten that it is the random, the unscreened, that allows you to find what you didn’t know you were looking for.

And you don’t know a place until it surprises you.

Above: Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust (Spanish edition)

But we have come to a place in society where the road ends, where there is no public space and we have paved Paradise to put up a parking lot, a world where leisure is shrinking and being crushed under the anxiety to produce, where bodies are not in the world but indoors in transport and buildings.

We have gained speed and lost purpose.

When you give yourself to places, they give you yourself back.

The more you come to know a place, the more you seed it with an invisible crop of memories and associations that will be waiting for your return, while new places offer up new thoughts and new possibilities.

Walking came from Africa, from evolution, and from necessity.

It went everywhere, usually looking for something.

And this is the essence of walking, the search for something intangible.

Above: (in green) Africa

This is the essence of the pilgrimage, a literal means of spiritual journey, wherein the journey is more significant than the destination itself, for it is the journey that develops us spiritually.

Walking lets us be in that non-believer’s Paradise, that Heaven on Earth, nature.

To consider Earth holy is to connect the lowest and most material to the most high and ethereal, to close the breach between matter and spirit.

The world is holy and the sacred is underfoot rather than above.

The journey of the outside is also a journey within.

And there have been people in St. Gallen that remind me of the holy underfoot and the surprising compassion of those not out to earn their own “salvation” but who only seek to help others to find theirs.

Each time we are reunited, Augustin and I stroll through town.

He does not point out the attractions, but somehow I feel that I am seeing St. Gallen through his eyes and not my own.

His manner of expression lends majesty to the path upon which we walk.

Above: My friend Augustin

I have known Augustin for a decade when we were both employed at the Starbucks Bahnhof St. Gallen.

He is truly a remarkable man.

Augustin – a wonderful mix of French and African…

As welcoming to Switzerland as rain in the desert….

When I broke both my arms in 2018 and needed to be rehabilitated in Mammern – 26 miles / 42 km northwest of St. Gallen – he was my sole visitor (save my wife) who came out to visit me.

Everyone has busy lives and yet he found the time – made the time – to visit someone who should have given him, should still give him, more of his time and attention.

Above: Augustin and your humble blogger, Mammern, Switzerland, 2 June 2018

On 22 January 2022, after very little contact or communication between us, he invited me to his new apartment he shares with his lady love Laura and he cooked us a delicious dinner and continuously gave and gave to me whatever I might desire.

I left his apartment feeling humbled and honoured by the hospitality and love shown to me.

May I always be worthy.

Above: Laura and Augustin

Augustin is one of the hardest workers I have ever had the honour of working with.

He truly gives the adage “It is not the job that brings dignity to the man. It is the man who brings dignity to the job.” meaning.

He is one of those rare individuals who may not have always been blessed with the wealth that others take for granted, but he remains generous to a fault.

He came to Switzerland in dire straits.

He spoke truth to power and his homeland’s government desired to imprison him for his sacrilege.

He remains an exile from his home, from his loved ones there, until the politics therein, perhaps, one day, changes.

He has since become a Swiss citizen and, as such, acts responsibly, deserving of that privilege.

He has built a life for himself, has found a lady love and has achieved a happiness he so richly deserves, for he has gotten from the universe what he has given to it and fortune has rewarded him accordingly.

His is one of those friendships, like so many friendships this rolling stone has been miraculously been blessed with, that needs no reciprocation and yet rewards those who treat him with dignity and respect.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Augustin is my mirror.

I cannot even begin to guess the mind of another person, but perhaps the dignity and respect I have shown him compels him to show me the same.

Despite this, I get the feeling that he does not give in order to get.

He is not good (at least, to me) out of any expectation.

Nor do I get a sense of his feeling entitled to reciprocation.

(Unlike some I have known…..)

Augustin, the Augustin I know, is a man fit to be any other man’s role model of what a good person is, of what a good person can be.

I am blessed by his friendship.

Above: Augustin

Perhaps I should not be so surprised and touched when people are nice to me.

And yet I am, almost every time, when an act of human kindness touches my life.

I am even surprised when my own wife is kind to me, for we have had our differences over the years.

(My sojourn in Turkey has not helped the relationship.)

Like most men, I am probably undeserving of a good woman’s (or perhaps even a bad woman’s) love.

Above: The Wedding, Edmund Blair Leighton

I think of my last visit to Switzerland and the friends I encountered when I was there:

  • Volkan, assistant Starbucks store manager and talented singer, is a man of surprising depth at times.
  • Nesha, of Belgrade and Herisau, has always been a friend with whom I can share moments of laughter.
  • Naomi, Canadian from Vancouver and Starbucks barista, a woman torn between ambition and affection, is a woman who leads with her heart despite the misgivings of her head.
  • Alanna, Canadian from Nova Scotia, Starbucks shift manager and independent store operator, is one of the strongest women I know, whose will is as powerful as her beauty.
  • Katja is a woman whose wanderlust and passion for life matches my own.
  • Sinan is a young man whose maturity belies the youthfulness of his features, a good father, a good husband, a good friend.
  • Michael is a young man who reminds me of myself in my younger days, so confident in what he knows, still unaware that the passage of time will confirm that there will always be more we don’t understand, that the knowledge we do have is merely a beginning, that it is never the completion of all we need to know, he is a young man who in discovering the world discovers himself.
  • Sonja, former Starbucks store manager, now an independent vendor in the Luzern region, is always compassionate to me whenever we see one another.
  • Ricardo, former Starbucks store manager, is another friend who is easy to misjudge, but, at least with me, he has proven ready to assist me should I ask him.
  • Pedro, Starbucks store manager, started at Starbucks shortly after I did, but unlike me was determined to rise within its ranks, is a person I am proud to know, for despite his success he has always respected that I walk a different path than he does.
  • Ute, my wife, my life, is as part of my being as breathing, a woman who deserves far better than myself, but Karma is a tricky thing!

These are the few I was fortunate enough to see during my last visit.

There remain others that time and circumstance prevented our reunion.

I have been blessed by these and other friends (and family) in other places (Canada, Britain, Australia, New Zealand, America, Germany, Austria, Paraguay, Turkey).

Do others see these friends different than I see them?

Most assuredly.

Some of my friends may not even like other friends of mine.

What may be said of their lives outside of my experience of them I can neither confirm nor deny.

I only judge them by their actions towards me.

And it is by their actions that I know them.

It is their actions towards me that restores my faith in humanity and in life itself.

They are my religion, my sustenance, the very breath I take, the reason I live, the courage to love.

Friends offer enormous comfort.

They help to structure your time.

They show you that you belong and can be cared about.

A man who lacks a network of friends is seriously impaired from living his life, from having a life worth living.

A man’s friends alleviate the neurotic overdependence on a wife or a girlfriend for every emotional need.

If a man, going through a “rough patch”, gets help from his friends as well as his partner, then his burden is shared.

If his problems are with his partner (as they often are) then his friends can help him through, talk sense into him, stop him acting stupidly and help him to release his grief.

I do not believe that men are as inarticulate as women claim.

We are simply inexperienced.

Our inarticulateness (a trait not shared by all men) simply comes from a history with a lack of sharing opportunities.

Millions of women complain about their male partner’s lack of feeling, their woodenness.

Men themselves (and I include myself in this) often feel numb and confused about what they really want.

But if men talked to each other more, perhaps they would understand themselves better.

Then perhaps we would then have more to say to our wives or girlfriends.

Sometimes only a man can understand what another man is feeling.

The same can be said for the empathy between women.

Men’s voices have a different tone than women’s.

Our feelings have a different tone as well.

We have more than enough feelings, but we lack the experience or opportunity to express them.

What does not help is that men are put into a double bind by society at large.

We are asked to simultaneously be more intimate and sensitive and yet be tough when needed.

As if feelings within a man need be as flexible as shifting gears in a car.

A considerable skill not innately part of ourselves.

We are reserved in expression, for expression requires trust in those who may listen.

Can we express hurt?

Can we express frustration?

Without fear of censure?

Without others minimizing these feelings?

Without advice given?

Without competition?

Men feel, but fear of showing weakness prevents expression.

Men can be noisy and wild and still be safe.

What annoys me about society is the demand that men must prove that they are men.

Men have nothing to prove.

Let men judge themselves by their own standards.

A man should not be judged for the manner in which he conveniently accommodates women.

Women have their own struggles.

Men have theirs.

Equality between the genders is only possible if there is negotiation and fairness, non-threatening behaviour (from both genders), mutual respect, mutual trust and support, honesty and accountability (from both genders), shared responsibility and economic partnership.

They are “my North, my South, my East and West,
My working week and my Sunday rest,
My noon, my midnight, my talk, my song.

W.H. Auden

Above: Wystan Hugh Auden (1907 – 1973)

Time and distance often separates us, but while I think of them they remain ever close to my heart and are embedded in my soul.

If there is a God – and sometimes I think there just might be – then He manifests Himself in the manner in which He blesses our lives with our fellow human beings.

Everyone I meet has proven to be either a blessing or a lesson in my life.

I am humbled.

I am grateful.

Another friend once described me in the following way:

You are a walking/living contradiction.

Shy and timid on one extreme, courageous and adventurous on the other, extremely intelligent and yet naive at the same time…”

(I have been called worse!)

Do I contradict myself?
Very well then I contradict myself,
(I am large, I contain multitudes.)

Walt Whitman

Above: Walt Whitman (1819 – 1892)

I find myself remembering an old Facebook post I wrote during the days I travelled by train between Landschlacht and St. Gallen:

Above: Swiss Federal Railways network map

Normally I am unaffected by graffiti and undecided as to whether it should be viewed as an art form or as an act of vandalism.

But there is a graffiti scrawling on the wall of a factory (apple processing plant?) facing the railroad station of Neukirch-Egnach (between Romanshorn and St. Gallen) that always makes me smile for its powerful simplicity.

You are artwork.

Each and every one of us is a miracle, an artistic masterpiece.

Such a wise graffiti scrawl...

Heed the writing on the wall.

Above: Neukirch-Egnach Station, Switzerland

What a piece of work is man,

How noble in reason, how infinite in faculty,

In form and moving how express and admirable,

In action how like an angel,

In apprehension how like a god,

The beauty of the world,

The paragon of animals. 

Hamlet, Act 2, Scene ii, William Shakespeare

Above: Presumed portrait of William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

It is Easter Sunday, it is Passover, it is Ramadan.

I am merely a man.

Thank God.

Above: Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Reuters, “One dead in shooting at mosque in Switzerland“, 23 August 2014

Dog daze

Kreuzlingen, Switzerland, Wednesday 12 January 2022

However tight I shut my eyes, there will always be a stray dog somewhere in the world who will stop me being happy.

French playwright Jean Anouilh (1910 – 1987), Restless Heart (La Sauvage)

Kreuzlingen is a municipality in the canton of Thurgau in northeastern Switzerland.

It is the second-largest city of the canton, after Frauenfeld, with a population of about 22,000.

Together with the adjoining city of Konstanz (Constance) just across the border in Germany, Kreuzlingen is part of the largest conurbation on Lake Constance (Bodensee) with a population of almost 120,000.

Kreuzlingen in early-October 2009
Above: Kreuzlingen, Switzerland

Since my return to Switzerland (28 December to 15 February) I have visited Kreuzlingen generally as a means to an end:

The end being to cross the border from there to Konstanz, Germany.

I have already visited Kreuzlingen three times in this regard.

Above: The German – Swiss border

The name of the municipality stems from the Augustinian monastery Crucelin, later the Kreuzlingen Abbey. 

It was founded in 1125 by the Bishop of Konstanz, Ulrich I.

Above: Kreuzlingen Abbey (or the Church of St. Ulrich and St. Afra)

In the Swabian War (1499) and the Thirty Years’ War (1618 – 1648) after the siege of Konstanz by Swedish troops, the Augustinian monastery was burned down by the people of Konstanz, who blamed the monks for having supported the enemy.

Battle of Hard.jpg
Above: The Battle of Hard (20 February 1499), one of the battles of the Swabian War, as depicted in the Luzerner Schilling of 1513.

Above: “The Lion of the North“, King Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden (1594 – 1632)

In 1650, the Monastery was rebuilt in its present location.

With secularization in 1848, the buildings became a teachers’ school.

The chapel became a Catholic church.

Above: Interior of St. Ulrich Church, Kreuzlingen

Its very name of Kreuzlingen (village of the cross) suggests that there is more to life than commerce, more to existence than the saving of money by shopping over the border.

Coat of arms of Kreuzlingen
Above: Coat of arms of Kreuzlingen

The area was already settled during the Bronze Age (3300 – 1200 BCE). 

Celtic and Roman coins and artifacts testify of continued settlement.

Above: A Roman coin depicting the profile of Diocletian (242 – 311)

When the wife and I were considering where to live when she accepted her position at the nearby hospital in Münsterlingen, at no time then or since have we desired to live in Kreuzlingen, despite its attractions.

Logo

Kurzrickenbach is first mentioned as Rihinbah in 830, Egelshofen as Eigolteshoven in 1125, and Emmishofen as Eminshoven in 1159.

Hörnliplatz Kurzrickenbach
Above: Hörnliplatz, Kurzrickenbach, Kreuzlingen

Egelshofen
Above: Egelshofen, Kreuzlingen

Emmishofen, im Hintergrund der Bodensee und Hagnau
Above: Emmishofen, Kreuzlingen

The territory of the municipality, except for the Augustinian monastery, belonged to the Bishop of Konstanz.

Wappen Bistum Konstanz.png
Above: Coat of arms of the Bishop of Konstanz

When the Eidgenossen (the Swiss Confederation) conquered Thurgau in 1460 and further with the Reformation (1521 – 1648), the ties to the neighbouring city loosened.

Flag of Thurgau
Above: Flag of Thurgau Canton

Have these ties really loosened?

I wonder.

The Swiss still cross over the border to shop more cheaply in Germany.

Vehicles backed up on a divided roadway seen from above. In the foreground is a traffic signal; there are blue signs in German further down the road as it narrows. In the rear is a developed hillside, partially obscured by bluish haze
Above: Swiss shoppers returning to their home country from Konstanz on weekends

Until the beginning of the 19th century, the present centre of Kreuzlingen was still largely agricultural.

So was the rest of Switzerland for that matter.

Above: Aerial view of Kreuzlingen from 200 m (1919) by Walter Mittelholzer (1894 – 1937)

The wee village of Landschlacht where the wife and I decided to reside is still agricultural in its essence.

Directly across from our apartment block, the adjacent field is still being cultivated.

Above: Landschlacht, Switzerland

The first steamboats began to operate on the Bodensee in 1824.

Above: Map of the Lake of Constance (Bodensee)

The steamboat era is long past, though boats still continue to criss-cross the Bodensee or navigate the Rhine (Rhein) River from Kreuzlingen to Schaffhausen.

Das Teufelsschiff vom Bodensee: Wie die «Zürich» vor 100 Jahren mehrere  Schiffe zum Kentern brachte

The first train line to Romanshorn was finished in 1871, and the second to Etzwilen in 1875.

Hafeneinfahrt Romanshorn 2.JPG
Above: Romanshorn

Etzwilen
Above: Etzwilen

There are still trains that traverse Kreuzlingen: the Wil (SG) – Schaffhausen (SH) line, the Weinfelden – Kreuzlingen line, and Intercity trains to Zürich and Luzern.

Above: Wil

Schaffhausen mit Munot, Rhein & MS Munot 20150419-IMG 0194.JPG
Above: Schaffhausen

Rathausstrasse in Weinfelden
Above: Rathausstrasse, Weinfelden

Altstadt Zürich
Above: Zürich

Reuss, Kapellbrücke mit Wasserturm, Jesuitenkirche, Rathaus und Rathausquai
Above: Luzern (Lucerne)

This brought commerce and industry to the region.

1SwissFranc2001.jpg

I suspect more commerce is still lost to Germany than remains in Kreuzlingen.

Euro symbol.svg

In 1874, the municipality of Egelshofen was renamed Kreuzlingen and became the capital of the district, instead of Gottlieben.

Blick vom gegenüberliegenden Rheinufer auf Gottlieben
Above: Gottlieben

It reached its present size with the incorporation of Kurzrickenbach in 1927 and Emmishofen in 1928.

However, until World War I (1914 – 1918), Kreuzlingen was a kind of suburb of Konstanz.

Vor dem Ersten Weltkrieg spielte die Grenze zwischen Kreuzlingen und  Konstanz keine Rolle
Above: Border crossings between Kreuzlingen and Konstanz

In many ways, Kreuzlingen still is.

And these suburban lines stretch as far as Landschlacht from where Bus 908 can deliver me all the way to my dentist’s office at Zähringerplatz in Konstanz.

Auch Konstanz hat zu viel an Postauto bezahlt - TOP ONLINE

Stadtwerke Konstanz Nr. 8/KN-C 1108 Mercedes Citaro am 15. September 2008  Konstanz, Bahnhof - Bus-bild.de

Most of its industry was in the hands of German firms.

The Second World War made Kreuzlingen more independent.

In 1947 Kreuzlingen passed the mark of 10,000 residents, thus becoming according to Swiss statistical convention a town.

Though these days, Kreuzlingen calls itself a city.

Above: Kreuzlingen Harbour

The Sanatorium of Bellevue (1857 – 1980), which occupied part of the old monastery, played an important role in the history of Kreuzlingen.

In 1842, Ignaz Vanotti from Konstanz bought a large tract of land and built a residential and commercial building in 1843 to house the emigrants of Bellevue, which had previously been located in Römerburg.

In 1857, Ludwig Binswanger, a psychiatrist from Münsterlingen acquired the property and opened a private sanatorium.

Above: Ludwig Binswanger (1820 – 1880)

The clinic was very modern and remained in the control of the Binswanger family for nearly 120 years.

Important psychiatric advances, particularly under the founder’s grandson, also called Ludwig Binswanger (1881 – 1966), especially in the development of existential psychotherapy, were made at the Sanatorium.

Above: Portrait of Ludwig Binswanger II, Ernst Kirchner (1880 – 1938)

However, few of its buildings remain.

Above: Bellevue Sanatorium, Kreuzlingen

In 1840, the Canton of Thurgau opened the Cantonal Hospital in Münsterlingen.

In 1849, Doctor Ludwig Binswanger was entrusted with the treatment of the mentally ill at Münsterlingen.

In 1894, this department received its own buildings on the Bodensee.

Above: Psychiatrische Klinik Münsterlingen

In 1972, the new building of the Münsterlingen Cantonal Hospital was ready for occupancy.

In 1999, the Cantonal Hospital and the Münsterlingen Psychiatric Clinic were integrated into Spital Thurgau AG.

In 2005, this 3rd economic sector of Münsterlingen provided 97% of the Municipality’s jobs, with the Clinic and Hospital alone employing 877 people.

Coat of arms of Münsterlingen
Above: Coat of arms of Münsterlingen

It is my understanding that the psychologically unwell of Kreuzlingen now travel to (or reside in) the Münsterlingen Clinic.

Living in the neighbourhood of a psychiatric clinic means that, from time to time, it is possible to encounter someone unwell in this regard anywhere on the rail route from Romanshorn to Kreuzlingen.

Such was the case (or so I believe) this evening….

Landschlacht TG: Mann (35) auf Perron von Zug erfasst - 20 Minuten
Above: Landschlacht Station

Existential psychotherapy is a form of pschotherapy based on the model of human nature and experience developed by the existential tradition of European philosophy.

It focuses on concepts that are universally applicable to human existence including death, freedom, responsibility, and the meaning of life. 

Instead of regarding human experiences such as anxiety, alienation and depression as implying the presence of mental illness, existential psychotherapy sees these experiences as natural stages in a normal process of human development and maturation.

In facilitating this process of development and maturation, existential psychotherapy involves a philosophical exploration of an individual’s experiences stressing the individual’s freedom and responsibility to facilitate a higher degree of meaning and well-being in their life.

All the signs of anxiety, alienation and depression, whether an implication of mental illness or simply a natural stage of human maturation, were very present and palpable this evening….

What Is Existential Therapy? - TRANSFORMATIVE THERAPY

The Kreuzlingen train station is the largest of four train stations in the City.

Two story building with adjoining single story section
Above: Kreuzlingen Station

It is operated by the SBB (Swiss National Railways) and is served by the SBB, Thurbo S-Bahn and Deutsche Bahn trains.

SBB CFF FFS logo.svg
Above: Swiss National Railways logo

Logo

Logo

The station was opened to traffic on 1 July 1875 as Emmishofen station in the course of the opening of the Etzwilen – Konstanz railway line.

Bahnhof Konstanz – Wikipedia
Above: Konstanz Station

At that time, today’s Kreuzlinger Hafen (harbour) station on the Romanshorn – Konstanz railway line was simply called Kreuzlingen.

The connection between the two stations was opened at the same time.

File:Bahnhof Kreuzlingen-Hafen (April 2011).jpg - Wikimedia Commons
Above: Kreuzlingen Hafen (Harbour) Station

On 18 December 1911, after two years of construction, the Mittelthurgau (Central Thurgau) Railway (MThB) was added, which opened its line from Weinfelden to Emmishofen.

For this step, the station was massively rebuilt.

Mittelthurgaubahn – Wikipedia

With the incorporation of Emmishofen into the City of Kreuzlingen, the Emmishofen train station became the Kreuzlingen train station and the old Kreuzlingen station was now called Kreuzlingen Hafen.

Above: Kreuzlingen Station

In 1996, all routes around the Kreuzlingen train station were transferred to Mittelthurgau Bahn – previously only the Weinfelden – Kreuzlingen route had belonged to it.

The Kreuzlingen – Konstanz route also belonged to the SBB, even if it was only used by the MThB.

With the MThB bankruptcy and the establishment of the Thurbo as a 90% owned subsidiary of the SBB in 2002, Kreuzlingen station went back to the SBB.

Above: Kreuzlingen Station

The station consists of a side platform (Gleis 1) and a central platform (Gleis 2 and 3).

The track plans were created in such a way that two trains per track stop at the same time and can also overtake one another.

Bild: Bahnhof "Kreuzlingen Hafen" • Schienenverkehr-Schweiz.ch
Above: Kreuzlingen Station

The SBB plans to discontinue personal service in 50 to 100 medium-sized stations.

(Not that personal service was remarkable before….)

Verkehrs-Club der Schweiz på Twitter: "Der #SBB Fahrplan 2018 ist ab heute  gültig! ⌚ Wer ist verantwortlich für die Fahrplanerstellung? Warum wechselt  er so oft? Was sind dieses Jahr die wichtigsten Änderungen?
Above: The SBB train network

Then tickets will only be purchased from machines.

(Even more unreliable…..)

How to buy a train ticket in Switzerland - a step by step guide

According to an SBB press release, this would also affect Kreuzlingen.

Bild: Bahnhof "Kreuzlingen" • Schienenverkehr-Schweiz.ch
Above: Kreuzlingen Station

In 2018, the idea of a Kreuzlinger-Konstanzer S-Bahn was discussed.

I am not sure what the results of that discussion were, but I can confirm that it is possible to get a high-speed train from Konstanz to Luzern without much difficulty.

Generally, for train-travelling locals, the journey from Konstanz to anywhere else in Switzerland must involve stopping at Kreuzlingen station and waiting for another train to whisk you away to where you wish to go.

Datei:Flag of Switzerland.svg
Above: Flag of Switzerland

Returning from shopping in Konstanz I find myself, yet again, waiting for a train back to Landschlacht.

The weather is -2°C, but as is often the case of Canadians who wish to brag about their ability to tolerate cold temperatures, I find myself woefully underdressed and so I seek shelter in a glass-enclosed waiting area between the platforms.

Above: Platforms 2 and 3, Kreuzlingen Station

I am alone for a few moments, then I am joined by a younger man, masked against COVID as I am.

He is furiously texting someone and suddenly…..

He is sobbing, his tears dampening the top trim of his mask.

Crying Face Emoji (U+1F622)

Is his relationship with his lover dissipating before his eyes?

Has someone died?

GrahamGreene TheEndOfTheAffair.jpg

I feel I ought to say something, but I am flooded with hesitant thoughts.

How will he react to my involvement?

What if he is not a rational man?

Unwell.jpg

The sense I get from his body language is that tragically someone he has loved has, for one reason or another, denied him the possibility of being loved in return in future.

All of this prompts the thought…..

Is he worthy of being loved?

What will the removal or denial of love do to this young man’s character, to this young man’s life?

His hunched shoulders, his head bent forward over the screen of his phone, his body is a monument to the misery of the moment.

Where Is the Love - Roberta Flack and Donny Hathaway.jpg

I am reminded of repenting dogs, beaten by feelings of guilt and remorse.

And my mind retreats into the past.

Submissive and Excitement Urination

I recall how a woman I once thought I would marry ended our relationship.

By fax.

(Anyone remember faxes?)

How cold, how cruel, how cowardly a way to end an affair!

Hindsight, of course, shows me how unready I was for a relationship in those days and how wise she had been to excuse herself from further intimacy with me.

I no longer have hard feelings towards her.

I no longer feel anything about her.

I am not spiteful.

I wish her well wherever she is, with whomever she is with.

A large heart shaped design is filled with a montage of images. Most are grey, black, and white; the central image includes red colouring. The name Gotye is styled as a signature at bottom right.

I have long since learned that happiness can never be found in the arms of another.

Happiness comes from within, never from without.

Happiness is shared, it is never the result of someone else’s solutions.

Pharrell Williams - Happy.jpg

But I feel that the end of love, whether through the deterioration of a relationship or the demise of a loved one, should, ideally, be a dignified exit.

A text ending an affair, whether by fax or phone, denigrates the importance of the relationship.

Are we unworthy of a face-to-face finale?

Or is the chaos of confrontation too frightening a possibility for some to face?

Is confronting the soon-to-be-jilted lover an open admission that the relationship has failed, that mistakes had been made?

Is the salvation of one ego only possible through the destruction of an other?

Boyz II Men End of the Road USA commercial cassette.jpg

Mind drifts into another time passage, one more recent, a memory a mere two weeks old.

ISG Sabiha Gökçen Airport Hotel, Istanbul – Updated 2022 Prices
Above: Sabiha Gökcen Airport Hotel, Pendik, Istanbul

Hung-up, run-down, low-down, depressed and despairing, the young traveller’s face imprints an image that haunts me, the one that I had seen on the TV of the restaurant of the Airport Hotel in Istanbul where I spent my last morning in Turkey – (For now. I plan to return to Turkey on 15 February, God willing / Inshallah.) – that of an attack by two pit bull terriers on a four-year-old girl captured on CCTV camera.

Asiye Ateş was playing in the garden of the estate where she lived in Gaziantep Beştepe Mahallesi on the evening of 22 December.

She was suddenly attacked by two pit bull dogs on the basketball court.

In those moments when people rushed to help, the dogs did not leave the little girl for a long time.

Pitbull saldırısına uğrayan Asiye Ateş Antalya'ya getirildi! Başkan Erdoğan  bizzat ilgilendi: Asiye'nin tedavisini Prof. Ömer Özkan yapacak - Galeri -  Takvim

Above: Video of the pit bull attack

The child, who was injured in the face and chest, was rescued and handed over to medical teams.

Gaziantep'te pitbull saldırısında ağır yaralanmıştı! Asiye Ateş'in ameliyat  öncesi sorusu yürek yaktı
Above: Asiye Ateş

In a written statement from the Gaziantep Governor’s Office:

Two pitbull dogs belonging to five people living on site injured the child of a site employee in a life-threatening manner in the head and throat area.

The two dogs were delivered to Gaziantep Metropolitan Municipality Animal Shelter and Rehabilitation Centre by the Nature Conservation and National Parks Branch Directorate.

The dog owners and a site security guard were taken into police custody.

The judicial and administrative process is ongoing.

The treatment and rehabilitation of the injured child, provided by the Governor’s Office, is being followed.

Above: Gaziantep Castle, Turkey

I had not known of this attack, for, in truth, my last week in Turkey had been extremely busy and though newspapers were bought throughout the week, none had been read, and, as both a matter of habit and interest, I rarely catch the news on TV or on the Internet, so the screen shot on the restaurant TV was my first exposure to the attack.

What little can be seen in the video clip it appears that the little girl had done nothing to provoke the canine attack.

A dog teaches a boy fidelity, perseverance, and to turn around three times before lying down.

American writer Robert Benchley (1889 – 1945), Artemus Ward, His Book

New dog, old tricks? Untrained stray dogs can understand human cues –  Science & research news | Frontiers

The Green Mile is a 1999 American fantasy drama film written and directed by Frank Darabont and based on Stephen King’s 1996 novel of the same name.

The words Tom Hanks, a prison guard looking to the distance, below the words The Green Mile, in the middle of the words, a small silhouette of a big man and small man walking towards a light.

It stars Tom Hanks as death row prison guard Paul Edgecomb during the Great Depression who witnesses supernatural events following the arrival of an enigmatic convict (Michael Clarke Duncan) at his facility.

Above: Michael Clarke Duncan (1957 – 2012) and Tom Hanks, The Green Mile

At a Louisiana assisted-living home, elderly retiree Paul Edgecomb (Dabbs Greer) becomes emotional while viewing the film Top Hat.

TopHatORGI.jpg

His companion Elaine becomes concerned, and Paul explains to her that the film reminded him of events that he witnessed in 1935 when he was an officer at Cold Mountain Penitentiary’s death row, nicknamed “The Green Mile“.

Above: Dabbs Greer (1917 – 2007), The Green Mile

In 1935, Paul supervises Corrections Officers Brutus “Brutal” Howell (David Morse), Dean Stanton (Barry Pepper), Harry Terwilliger (Jeffrey DeMunn), and Percy Wetmore (Doug Hutchison), reporting to chief warden Hal Moores (James Cromwell).

Brutus "Brutal" Howell - The Green Mile (1999) MBTI - Personality Database  ™️
Above: David Morse, The Green Mile

Dean Stanton - The Green Mile
Above: Barry Pepper, The Green Mile

The Green Mile (1999) - Wild Bill Piss On Harry Terwilliger - YouTube
Above: Jeffrey DeMunn, The Green Mile

TIL Tom Holland played the role for Percy Wetmore in 1999 Green Mile.  decades of time difference, incredibly different roles, yet still the  superb performance 👏 : r/TomHolland
Above: Doug Hutchison, The Green Mile

Hal - The Green Mile photo (25091586) - fanpop
Above: James Cromwell, The Green Mile

Paul is introduced to John Coffey, a physically imposing but mild-mannered black man, who has been sentenced to death after being convicted of raping and murdering two little white girls. 

Paul gradually realizes that John possesses a supernatural ability to heal others.

Above: Michael Clarke Duncan, The Green Mile

Suspecting that John is endowed with the power to perform divine miracles, Paul begins to doubt whether he is truly guilty of his crimes.

He visits the lawyer who defended Coffey, Burt Hammersmith (Gary Sinise), at his farm.

The Green Mile (1999)
Above: Tom Hanks and Gary Sinise, The Green Mile

Edgecomb: He (Coffey) is strange, I admit, but there doesn’t seem to be any real violence in him.

I know violent men, Mr. Hammersmith.

I deal with them, day in and day out.

15 Things You Might Not Know About 'The Green Mile' | Mental Floss
Above: Tom Hanks, The Green Mile

Hammersmith: You didn’t come up here to ask me whether he might have killed before.

You came up to see if I think he did it at all.

Gary Sinise: pointing at his own head | Gary sinise, Gary, Handsome
Above: Gary Sinise, The Green Mile

Edgecomb: Do you?

Fotostrecke: Die TV-Tops und Flops der Woche | BRIGITTE.de
Above: Tom Hanks, The Green Mile

Hammersmith: One rarely sees such an unambiguous case.

He was found with the victims in his arms.

Green Mile Book Club Guide – RADical Projects
Above: Michael Clarke Duncan and Evanne and Bailey Drucker, The Green Mile

Edgecomb: And yet you defended him?

The Green Mile by Stephen King
Above: Michael Clarke Duncan, The Green Mile

Hammersmith: Everyone is entitled to a defense.

I’ll tell you something and you listen close too, because it might be something you need to know.

The Green Mile (1999)
Above: Gary Sinise, The Green Mile

Edgecomb: I’m listening.

The Green Mile (1999)
Above: Gary Sinise and Tom Hanks, The Green Mile

Hammersmith: We had us a dog, just a sweet mongrel, you know the kind.

Well, in many ways, a good mongrel dog is like a Negro.

You get to know it, often you get to love it.

It is of no particular use, but you keep it around because you think it loves you.

If you’re lucky, Mr. Edgecomb, you never have to find out any different.

My wife and I were not so lucky.

The Green Mile | Bild 2 von 20 | Moviepilot.de
Above: The Hammersmith family, The Green Mile

(Hammersmith calls his son Ethan to his side.

We see that the right side of his face is scarred and his right eye is missing.)

The Green Mile (1999)
Above: Gary Sinise, The Green Mile

Hammersmith: He still has the one good eye.

I suppose he’s lucky not to be completely blind.

We get down on our knees and thank God for that much at least.

That dog attacked my boy for no reason.

Just got it in his mind one day.

The same with John Coffey.

He was sorry afterwards.

Of that I have no doubt, but those little girls stayed raped and murdered.

John Coffey the Green Mile by JonathanSlagt on DeviantArt
Above: Michael Clarke Duncan, The Green Mile

Maybe he never done it before.

My dog never bit before.

But I didn’t concern myself with that.

I went out there with my rifle, grabbed his collar and blew his brains out.

Is Coffey guilty?

Yes, he is.

Don’t you doubt it.

And don’t you turn your back on him.

You may get away with it once or even a hundred times, but, in the end, you’ll get bit.

Burt Hammersmith – KingWiki
Above: Gary Sinise, The Green Mile

In order to really enjoy a dog, one doesn’t merely try to train him to be semihuman.

The point of it is to open oneself to the possibility of becoming partly a dog.

American writer Edward Hoagland (b. 1932), “Dogs and the Tug of Life“, Harper’s, February 1975

Stray Dogs - Galleries - Our Stories - FOUR PAWS International

From the Hürriyet Daily News, Tuesday 28 December 2021:

A nationwide debate has sparked over the fate of stray animals, following a gruesome incident in which a four-year-old girl became the victim of a vicious dog attack, setting social media abuzz.

Pitbull'un saldırdığı Asiye Ateş'in doktorundan flaş açıklama: Saçlarına  kavuşacak... - Galeri - Yaşam
Above: Asiye Ateş, before and after the pit bull attack

Asiye Ateş sustained severe injuries when two pit bulls mauled her in the southeastern province of Gaziantep while she was playing in a building complex in the Şahinbey district, severely injuring her from the neck and the head.

Asiye Ateş'in sağlık durumuna ilişkin flaş açıklama « haberciyedi24.com-  Haberler, Son Dakika Haberleri ve Güncel Haberler
Above: Asiye Ateş and the two pit bull terriers

The incident led to an outrage on social media, with a substantial number of people demanding authorities to collect all stray animals and not just breeds deemed dangerous.

Turkey expedites efforts for new social media regulation | Daily Sabah

The call has led to the rise of two schools of thought:

One group standing up for the rights of stray animals, saying that streets belong to these animals, too.

The other group in favor of locking them up in animal shelters after they are neutered, stating it as probably the most reasonable solution for the betterment of these homeless animals.

Istanbul stray dogs get starring roles in new film

While these discussions on social media are yet to go anywhere, some local authorities, agreeing to the calls of collecting stray animals and locking them up in shelters, have begin their operation already.

Stray' documentary about Turkish street dogs streaming today at Ciné

Dozens of municipalities in Istanbul, Afyon and Ankara started to collect animals opportunistically.

Where will a shelter with a capacity of 50 put 1,500 animals?“, asked Nesrin Citirik, the chairperson of HAYKONFED, a federation of animal protection groups.

She said that 1,200 out of 1,389 municipalities still do not have sterilization centres and shelters, even though there has been a law order for it for 17 years in Turkey.

Istanbul's street dogs are the stars of documentary 'Stray' - The  Washington Post

These municipalities, defying the law and the state, collect poor animals in shelters that do not exist now.

Some of these animals will be killed and some will be left in rural areas.“, Citirik said, adding that it was not fair to make stray animals pay for the biting incident of owned animals with death and cruelty against them.

Turkey feeds stray animals during Covid-19 outbreak - BBC News

Meanwhile, a piece of good news about Ateş’ health came from the southern province of Antalya, the city that hosts one of the best organ and tissue transplant centres in the world.

According to a senior official, a three-hour surgery performed at Akdeniz University Hospital on the girl was successful.

Akdeniz University Hospital – Medical Tourism with MediGlobus: The best  treatment around the world
Above: Akdeniz University Hospital, Antalya, Turkey

The first session surgery was performed for the tissue loss in the face and hair areas of Ateş.”, said Professor Yildiray Cete, the chief physician of the university hospital.

Since tissue transplantations are performed by microsurgical method, there are risks related to the tissue in the first few days, but as of now both the transplanted tissues are healthy and the vital signs of the patient are stable.“, he said.

Akdeniz University Hospital – Medical Tourism with MediGlobus: The best  treatment around the world

While discussion about stray animals and dogs of dangerous breeds is picking up momentum and has become a sensitive issue, two citizens in Istanbul and one in Denizli were injured due to a pit bull attack.

Under Turkey’s Animal Protection Act, pit bull terriers and other breeds posing a danger to humans are banned from being bred and sold.

Those violating the laws are given fines.

However, the Internet continues to be a lucrative platform for illegal sellers to sell potentially dangerous canine breeds.

New film 'Stray' chases three stray dogs in Istanbul's streets | Daily Sabah

From the Daily Sabah, Tuesday 28 December 2021:

As a four-year-old girl fights for her life after being mauled by two dogs, the issue of “dangerous canine breeds” is in the spotlight again.

The girl, in intensive care now, was a victim of pit bulls, despite the sale and ownership of the breed being banned in Turkey.

Unfortunately, she was not the latest victim, as three children were injured by pit bulls over the weekend in Istanbul and the western province of Denizli.

Asiye Ateş olayı ile ilgili skandal iddia! Pitbull saldırısı sonrası... -  Gündem Haberleri
Above: One of the pit bull terriers and Asiye Ateş

The attack in the southern province of Gaziantep, in which A.A. suffered injuries to her head and neck, drew widespread condemnation and resulted in six people, including the dogs’ owners being detained.

Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan called the girl’s family after the incident and pledged to follow up on the process.

The President also repeatedly called upon municipalities to take action to collect stray street animals and ensure them a safe environment in animal shelters.

The President also called on dog owners to restrain their animals.

Recep Tayyip Erdoğan 2021.jpg
Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Pit bulls are among the breeds banned from ownership and import in Turkey.

However, they are still illegally bred and even sold online.

From 14 January 2022, owners of breeds of dogs deemed dangerous under law are required to have their pets sterilized and microchipped so they can be tracked if they get loose.

Animal rights activists, on the other hand, say that moving dogs that pose a danger to humans to shelters is not a solution, asserting that pit bulls, like other breeds, are not aggressive and rather are trained to attack others by their owners.

Turkey’s leading animal rights organization, the Animal Rights Federation (HAYTAP), in a written statement said that they backed the idea of keeping stray dogs in check, but argued that they should be left alone after sterilization instead of being öocked up in “prison-like” animal shelters.

HAYTAP also called on authorities to stop the sale of dangerous breeds at pet shops and online.

The statement noted that the Federation supported the dog owners in Gaziantep receiving the highest sentence, charges of attempted homicide.

Pit bull sales thrive online despite ban on aggressive breeds in Turkey |  Daily Sabah

Turkey recently passed an animal rights bill after consultations with animal rights groups.

The comprehensive piece of legislation is viewed as a boost to animal rights, long neglected in a country that takes pride in caring for stray animals, whose number proliferate especially in big cities where they freely roam and mingle with people.

TURKEY - Villalobos Rescue Center

From Jennifer Hattam, Washington Post, 18 March 2021:

Forget the majestic mosques and bustling bazaars.

Over the centuries, one of the things that has most consistently captured the imagination of foreign travellers to Istanbul has been…..

The street dogs.

Why are Turkey's dogs committing suicide? - Al-Monitor: The Pulse of the  Middle East

The dogs sleep in the streets, all over the city.

They would not move, though the Sultan himself passed by.”

(Mark Twain, The Innocents Abroad, 1867)

Mark Twain - The Innocents Abroad.jpg

Amply documented in both 19th century lithographs and 21st century viral videos, Istanbul’s street dogs can today be found patiently waiting to cross at green lights, hitching ferry rides across the Bosporus, marching with protesters, and lapping up leftovers and attention outside sidewalk cafés.

Happiest pack of playing Street Dogs Istanbul Turkey - YouTube

Filmmaker Elizabeth Lo, whose documentary Stray had its US streaming release earlier this month, is the latest visitor to fall under the spell of the City’s canine cohort.

Stray (2020) - IMDb

Lo says she was struck by “seeing dogs roaming around freely, living life on their own terms, in this very developed city” and by the relationship she observed between them and Istanbul’s human residents.

People really see a dignity in the dogs, they see them as fellow citizens, as belonging to their streets and communities.”, she says.

Stray dog tours Istanbul using public transportation - Turkey News

Lo’s visually engaging film follows three charismatic canine protagonists, Zeytin, Nazar and Kartal, on their daily rounds through central Istanbul, often at a dog’s eye view that makes even familiar scenes look fresh.

Though scant on narrative or exposition, Stray alludes to the contested history of dogs in Istanbul and the ever-shifting social and urban dynamics that affect the lives of its canine and human citizens alike.

Stray has been heralded as “the ultimate love letter to dogs and a multifaceted moral inquiry into humanity“.

Meet Boji, Istanbul's commuting street dog and newest influencer | Middle  East Eye

Istanbul is home to some 600,000 stray dogs and cats, estimates Ahmet Atalik, who overseas veterinary services for the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality.

His staff puts out food at hundreds of locations around the City, carries out spay-neuter operations, and performs surgeries on injured dogs and cats.

Opinion | A New Deal for Turkey's Homeless Dogs - The New York Times

The origins of Istanbul’s dogs are as tough to pin down as their exact numbers.

One story holds that they entered Constantinople (Istanbul) with the army of Mehmet II, the Ottoman sultan who conquered the City from the Byzantines in 1453.

Gentile Bellini 003.jpg
Above: Sultan Mehmet II (1432 – 1481)

An archaeological dig of the Byzantine-era harbour in the City’s Yenikapi area that unearthed hundreds of dog skulls attests to a much earlier presence.

But their long-standing role in the life of the City is beyond dispute.

Jail time to replace Turkey's animal cruelty penalties

Historical sources from the Ottoman era show that dogs served as guards for neighbourhoods, ate the garbage since there were no municipal sanitation services, and would bark to alert people when there were fires which used to happen a lot.“, says Kimberly Hart, an anthropologist at SUNY Buffalo State College who studies Istanbul’s street animals as part of the City’s intangible cultural heritage.

But it wasn’t just a functional relationship.

It was seen as a good deed to feed and take care of them.

Buffalo State College seal.svg

The bowls of food and water and homemade shelters that modern Istanbul residents place on the streets for the City’s dogs – and its abundant stray cats – hark back to Ottoman times, when mosques had drinking water troughs for animals, charitable foundations were established to feed them, and travellers described seeing “little straw huts” set up for dogs.

Istanbul′s forgotten dogs struggle for survival | Environment | All topics  from climate change to conservation | DW | 08.10.2013

But though dogs have been a resilient presence in Istanbul for centuries, they are also a vulnerable one – as are the homeless Syrian boys who form a pack of sorts with some of the dogs in Lo’s film.

When war first broke out in neighbouring Syria, Turkey welcomed the refugees, but as their numbers swelled past 3.6 million and the conflict dragged on, the climate became less hospitable.

Syrians have been targets of hate speech and even attacks, as have other minority communities, including Armenians, Greeks and Jews.

Syrian children say they feel at home in Turkey - Turkey News

And history shows that dogs can become victims as well.

Attempts have been made to remove or exterminate Istanbul’s dog population since the early 1800s, with periodic mass killings continuing until as recently as the 1990s.

Most haunting is the exile in 1910 of 80,000 dogs to Sivriada, one of the Princes’ Islands off the City’s coast.

With no food or water on the rocky, uninhabited island, the dogs died slowly and painfully, their howls reporting carrying across the Sea of Marmara to the mainland.

Above: Sivriada Island

According to local lore, many saw divine punishment in the devastating fire that swept the City in 1911 and the outbreak of World War I, which culminated in the occupation of Istanbul.

ISTANBUL FIRES DURING THE OTTOMAN PERIOD AND THEIR EFFECT ON THE CITY'S  TOPOGRAPHY | History of Istanbul
Above: Istanbul fire

Above: Occupation of Istanbul

Historians attribute these cruel culling campaigns to late-era Ottoman rulers’s attempts to “Westernize” the City by imposing order and cleanliness on its streets as daily life moved from private homes to public squares.

Some accounts even say that complaints about the dogs from Western diplomats and visitors spurred the killings.

(Other foreigners helped found the City’s first animal societies in the 1910s.)

Coat of arms of the Ottoman Empire (1882–1922).svg
Above: Coat of arms of the Ottoman Empire (1882 – 1922)

The struggle continues to take care of them and keep them in their own neighbourhoods.

In 2012, animal lovers successfully protested en masse against amendments that would have allowed the removal of animals from city centres.

Istanbul's street dogs are the stars of documentary 'Stray' - The  Washington Post

But just as late Ottoman era rulers saw no place for dogs in their “modernizing” City, many worry that the urbanization processes reshaping Istanbul today will leave no room for them either.

Animals had a place in the social fabric of the mahalle (traditional neighbourhood), where there are back streets, butcher shops, people who look after them.“, says Hart, the anthropologist.

That is being destroyed as Istanbul is being re-created as a City where everything is shiny and bright and brand new.

Stray review – exquisite dog's eye view of Istanbul | Movies | The Guardian

And in Lo’s film, the dogs and boys find temporary shelter in a construction site, a symbol of the massive development projects gobbling up many of the City’s old neighbourhoods and green spaces.

Stray sketches: Woman sells art to feed Turkey's street dogs | Daily Sabah

We’ve destroyed the rivers where animals used to drink and cut down the trees that provided shelter for them when it was too hot or too cold.“, says Istanbul native Cem Arslan, who founded the Empathy Association to support street animals and their caretakers on Kinahada, an island neighbouring the infamous Sivriada.

Istanbul, Turkey Kinahada, Island of Proti Sea of Marmara (Photos Prints  Framed...) #11558029

Street animals are also living in the City, and because of rapid urbanization, they require more care and attention.“, agrees Atalik of the Istanbul Municipality.

Perhaps we are the ones occupying ‘their’ space.

Coat of arms of Istanbul
Above: Coat of arms of Istanbul Municipality

free-ranging dog is a dog that is not confined to a yard or house. 

Free-ranging dogs include street dogs, village dogs, stray dogs, and feral dogs, and may be owned or unowned.

The global dog population is estimated to be 900 million, of which around 20% are regarded as owned pets and therefore restrained.

Dogs living with humans is a dynamic relationship, with a large proportion of the dog population losing contact with humans at some stage over time.

This loss of contact first occurred after domestication and has reoccurred throughout history.

The global dog population is estimated to be 900 million and rising.

Although it is said that the “dog is man’s best friend“, for the 17% to 24% of dogs that live as pets in the developed countries, in the developing world pet dogs are uncommon but there are many village, community or feral dogs.

Most of these dogs live out their lives as scavengers and have never been owned by humans, with one study showing their most common response when approached by strangers is to run away (52%) or respond aggressively (11%).

Little is known about these dogs, or the dogs in developed countries that are feral, stray or that are in shelters, as the majority of modern research on dog cognition has focused on pet dogs living in human homes.

There is confusion with the terms used to categorize dogs.

Dogs can be classed by whether they possess an owner or a community of owners, how freely they can move around, and any genetic differences they have from other dog populations due to long-term separation.

Owned dogs are “family” dogs.

They have an identifiable owner, are commonly socialized, and are not allowed to roam.

They are restricted to particular outdoor or indoor areas.

They have little impact on wildlife unless going with humans into natural areas.

A free-ranging dog is a dog that is not confined to a yard or house.

Free-ranging owned dogs are cared for by one owner or a community of owners, and are able to roam freely.

This includes “village dogs“, which live in rural areas and human habitations.

These are not confined.

However, they rarely leave the village vicinity.

This also includes “rural free-ranging dogs“, which also live in rural areas and human habitations.

These are owned or are associated with homes, and they are not confined.

These include farm and pastoral dogs that range over particular areas.

Istanbul′s forgotten dogs struggle for survival | Environment | All topics  from climate change to conservation | DW | 08.10.2013

Free-ranging unowned dogs are stray dogs.

They get their food and shelter from human environments, but they have not been socialized and so they avoid humans as much as possible. 

Free-ranging unowned dogs include “urban free-ranging dogs“, which live in cities and urban areas.

These have no owner but are commensals, subsisting on left over food from human, garbage or other dogs’ food as their primary food sources. 

(Commensalism is a long-term biological interaction (symbiosis) in which members of one species gain benefits while those of the other species neither benefit nor are harmed.

This is in contrast with mutualism (in which both organisms benefit from each other), amensalism (where one is harmed while the other is unaffected), parasitism (where one is harmed and the other benefits), and parasitoidism (which is similar to parasitism but the parasitoid has a free-living state and instead of just harming its host, it eventually ends up killing it).

The commensal (the species that benefits from the association) may obtain nutrients, shelter, support, or locomotion from the host species, which is substantially unaffected.

The commensal relation is often between a larger host and a smaller commensal.

The host organism is unmodified, whereas the commensal species may show great structural adaptation consistent with its habits, as in the remoras that ride attached to sharks and other fish.

Remoras feed on their hosts’ fecal matter, while pilot fish feed on the leftovers of their hosts’ meals.

Above: Spearfish remora

Numerous birds perch on bodies of large mammal herbivores or feed on the insects turned up by grazing mammals.)

Strange Bird in Mahabharata: Bhulinga Bird! | Tamil and Vedas

Free-ranging unowned dogs also include feral dogs.

The term “feral” can be used to describe those animals that have been through the process of domestication but have returned to a wild state.

Domesticated and socialized (tamed) do not mean the same.

It is possible for a domestic form of an animal to be feral and not tame, and it is possible for a wild form of animal to be socialized to live with humans.

Feral Dogs and Shy Dogs | Best Friends Animal Society

Feral dogs differ from other dogs because they did not have close human contact early in their lives (socialization). 

Feral dogs live in a wild state with no food and shelter intentionally provided by humans and show a continuous and strong avoidance of direct human contact.

The distinction between feral, stray, and free ranging dogs is sometimes a matter of degree, and a dog may shift its status throughout its life.

In some unlikely but observed cases, a feral dog that was not born wild but lived with a feral group can become rehabilitated to a domestic dog with an owner.

A dog can become a stray when it escapes human control, by abandonment or being born to a stray mother.

A stray dog can become feral when it is forced out of the human environment or when it is co-opted or socially accepted by a nearby feral group.

Feralization occurs by the development of a fear response to humans.

Feral dogs are not reproductively self-sustaining, suffer from high rates of juvenile mortality, and depend indirectly on humans for their food, their space, and the supply of co-optable individuals.

Feral Dog Foster & Adoption | Best Friends Animal Society

The existence of “wild dogs” is debated.

Some authors propose that this term applies to the Australian dingo and dingo-feral dog hybrids.

They believe that these have a history of independence from humans and should no longer be considered as domesticated.

Others disagree, and propose that the dingo was once domesticated and is now a feral dog.

Dingo walking.jpg

The first British colonists to arrive in Australia established a settlement at Port Jackson in 1788 and recorded dingoes living there with indigenous Australians. 

Although the dingo exists in the wild, it associates with humans, but it has not been selectively bred as have other domesticated animals.

The dingo’s relationship with indigenous Australians can be described as commensalism, in which two organisms live in close association but without depending on each other for survival.

They will both hunt and sleep together.

The dingo is therefore comfortable enough around humans to associate with them, but is still capable of living independently. 

Any free-ranging unowned dog can be socialized to become an owned dog, as some dingoes do when they join human families.

Another point of view regards domestication as a process that is difficult to define.

It regards dogs as being either socialized and able to exist with humans, or unsocialized.

There exist dogs that live with their human families but are unsocialized and will treat strangers aggressively and defensively as might a wild wolf.

There also exists a number of cases where wild wolves have approached people in remote places, attempting to get them to play and to form companionship.

Stray' documentary about Turkish street dogs streaming today at Ciné

In 2011, a media article on the stray dog population by the US National Animal Interest Alliance said that there are 200 million stray dogs worldwide and that a “rabies epidemic” was causing a global public health issue.

About National Animal Interest Alliance, Animal Welfare  OrganizationNational Animal Interest Alliance

In 2013, the World Health Organization (WHO) reported that dogs are responsible for the vast majority of human rabies deaths, contributing up to 99% of all rabies transmissions to humans.

World Health Organization Logo.svg

Rabies causes tens of thousands of deaths every year, mainly in Asia and Africa.

More than 15 million people receive post-bite rabies vaccines to prevent the disease.

Above: Deaths from rabies per million persons in 2012 – The darker the region, the more deaths therein.

Increasing numbers of free-ranging dogs have become a threat to the snow leopard and young brown bears on the Tibetan Plateau because dog packs chase these animals away from food.

Irbis4.JPG
Above: Snow leopard

Above: Grizzly bear sow and cubs

Free-ranging dogs are often vectors of diseases, such as rabies and canine distemper, which can jump into species such as African wild dogs, wolves, lions and tigers.

In addition, they can interbreed with other members of the genus Canis, such as the Ethiopian wolf and the dingo, raising genetic purity concerns.

Ethiopian wolf (Canis simensis citernii).jpg
Above: Ethiopian wolf

Abandoned pets are companion animals that are either inadvertently or deliberately abandoned by their owners, by either dumping the animals on the streets, leaving them alone in a vacant property, or relinquishing them at an animal shelter.

Is COVID-19 just an excuse to abandon pets? - Times of India

Animal welfare laws in many states of the United States make it a crime to abandon a pet.

File:Flag of the United States.svg
Above: Flag of the United States of America

The UK passed the Abandonment of Animals Act of 1960, which describes the offence of cruelty as:

If any person being the owner or having charge or control of any animal shall without reasonable cause or excuse abandon it, whether permanently or not, in circumstances likely to cause the animal any unnecessary suffering, or cause or procure or, being the owner, permit it to be so abandoned.

A flag composed of a red cross edged in white and superimposed on a red saltire, also edged in white, superimposed on a white saltire on a blue background
Above: Flag of the United Kingdom

Often, when abandoned, pets are forced to fend for themselves and become stray or feral. 

Feral cats are said to outnumber feral dogs and can become challenging to handle and socialize enough to be re-introduced to a new human owner.

In general, only some newly abandoned cats and very young feral kittens can be tamed. 

There is a necessity to investigate interventions to prevent companion-animal relinquishment.

Stray animals increase potential exposure to zoonotic diseases like rabies. 

Cat bites or scratches involving stray or feral animals are eight times more common than dog bites.

Some pets relinquished to an animal shelter will be euthanized due to a lack of space or financial resources. 

Millions of companion animals enter animal shelters every year in the United States. 

However, the number of dogs and cats euthanized in US shelters declined from approximately 2.6 million in 2011 to 1.5 million in 2018.

This decline can be partially explained by an increase in the percentage of animals adopted, and an increase in the number of stray animals successfully returned to their owners. 

Studies show that the majority of people who relinquish an animal also report being emotionally attached to the dog.

It has been reported that when forced to abandon their animals in an evacuation, people suffer mental issues, such as grief, depression, and post-traumatic stress disorder.

Recognizing the importance of pets to their owners and their role in public health is an essential first step in improving a public health problem that has been seen repeatedly in the past and is unlikely to change in the future.

Alf wight.jpg
Above: James Heriot (1916 – 1995)

Pet abandonment increased during the USA financial crisis of 2007 – 2008.

In early 2009, the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) published advice for people facing foreclosure and the loss of their pets, recommending finding a foster or adoption situation for your pet, being aware of rental property rules for pets, and checking with animal shelters and animal rescue groups.

American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (logo).svg

Eskişehir, Turkey, Friday 24 December 2021

I have tried and have failed miserably at being a dog owner.

No photo description available.
Above: Your humble blogger

During my college years in Québec City I was given a puppy.

I accepted it without giving any forethought that the boarding house wherein I lived might not accept the dog on the premises.

I was forced to give up the puppy within a day of getting it.

From top, left to right: Quebec City from the St. Lawrence River, the Ramparts of Quebec City, waterfront in Old Quebec, skycrapers in Vieux-Québec, Parliament Building, Château Frontenac, Pierre Laporte Bridge
Above: Images of Québec City, Canada

During my time in Suwon, South Korea, I was given another dog to take care of.

A stray dog that my Canadian colleague from Toronto took in, it was given to me when Laura decided to prematurely break her work contract and return back to Canada.

Harubang (Korean for “grandfather“) was not at all a domesticated animal.

Indoors was its fecal depository, outdoors its playground.

Never having toilet trained an animal before I was overwhelmed as to handle Harubang.

I soon gave Harubang away to a Korean colleague and I have never found out the dog’s fate.

Hwaseong Fortress and the skyline of Suwon
Above: Suwon, South Korea

Since Suwon I have found myself living in apartments where the leasing agreements have strictly prohibited pets on the premises, including the old apartment in Eskişehir I would leave in 5 days’ time and the new apartment in Eskişehir I will move into in 55 days’ time.

Above: Eskişehir, Turkey

I have found myself envying St. Gallen friends of mine who are pet owners.

Kasia of Poland has half a dozen cats.

Byron of America has had dogs the entirety of his life.

Naomi of Vancouver adopted two lovely dogs for her home.

A view of St. Gallen
Above: St. Gallen, Switzerland

But Ute (the aforementioned wife) and I don’t have any pets in Landschlacht, as both our lease and our lifestyles deny this destiny.

A pet is a responsibility akin to having a child.

A pet is in so many ways as helpless as a human child.

A pet, an animal, has feelings and deserves to be treated as compassionately and responsibly as any person.

And herein lies the connection between people and pets.

We feel, or at least should feel, compassion for all living beings.

But this need for connectivity contradicts with the burden of duty that compassion demands.

Christmas Eve Day, or Quviasukvik (Inuit New Year’s Day), finds me having to visit Immigration to register the change of apartment addresses, my bank for the proper transferral of funds, and to do the usual hours of work at Wall Street English.

Bridge over the Porsuk River, Eskişehir, Turkey | Steve Hobson | Flickr

As my business with Immigration is completed sooner than I had anticipated, but my bank is closed for lunch, I stroll from the main street of Eskişehir’s shopping district to the Porsuk River bridge that connects to the street where Izmir Sandviç, my regular hangout in my first week in Eskişehir, sits.

Izmirlim Sandviç, Eskişehir - Restoran Yorumları - Tripadvisor

A beautiful Turkish Akbash sheepdog seeks my attention as I ascend the stairs leading up to the bridge.

Soft-hearted man that I am, I pet the dog’s beautiful coat.

In an instant, I love this dog and the dog loves me.

But I have neither the time nor the ability to take care of a creature that clearly needs to be loved.

The dog follows me for a block.

I dare not turn around to look at him or I will be lost in his sorrowful eyes.

I feel terrible, like I am abandoning a helpless creature to a state of loneliness and pain.

But am I ready, able and willing to give it the care it needs?

Sadly, no.

I walk away, spirits heavy, thoughts bleak.

The dog will forget me, but I will not forget the dog for quite some time.

He is both a major and a minor memory in a lifetime of many moments worth remembering.

Above: Turkish Akbash sheepdog

I find myself remembering Mark Twain’s A Dog’s Tale:

Dogstale.jpg

My father was a St. Bernard, my mother was a collie, but I am a Presbyterian.

That is what my mother told me.

I do not know these nice distinctions myself.

To me they are only fine large words meaning nothing.

Hummel Vedor vd Robandahoeve.jpg
Above: A male St. Bernard

My mother had a fondness for such.

She liked to say them and see other dogs look surprised and envious, as wondering how she got so much education.

But indeed it was not real education.

It was only show.

She got the words by listening in the dining room and drawing room when there was company, and by going with the children to Sunday school and listening there.

Whenever she heard a large word she said it over to herself many times, and so was able to keep it until there was a dogmatic gathering in the neighbourhood.

Then she would get it off, and surprise and distress them all, from pocket pup to mastiff, which rewarded her for all her trouble.

If there was a stranger he was nearly sure to be suspicious, and when he got his breath again he would ask her what it meant.

And she always told him.

He was never expecting this, but thought he would catch her.

So when she told him, he was the one that looked ashamed, whereas he had thought it was going to be she.

The others were always waiting for this, and glad of it and proud of her, for they knew what was going to happen, because they had had experience.

Above: A collie

You can see by these things that she was of a rather vain and frivolous character.

Still, she had virtues, and enough to make up, I think.

She had a kind heart and gentle ways.

She never harboured resentments for injuries done her, but put them easily out of her mind and forgot them.

And she taught her children her kindly way.

From her we learned also to be brave and prompt in time of danger and not to run away, but face the peril that threatened friend or stranger, and help him the best we could without stopping to think what the cost might be to us.

She taught us, not by words only, but by example.

And that is the best way and the surest and the most lasting.

Why, the brave things she did, the splendid things!

She was just a soldier, and so modest about it.

Well, you couldn’t help admiring her and you couldn’t help imitating her.

There was more to her than her education.

8 Dogs ideas | dogs, saint bernard, st bernard mix

When I was well grown, at last, I was sold and taken away, and I never saw her again.

She was broken-hearted and so was I and we cried.

But she comforted me as well as she could and said we were sent into this world for a wise and good purpose, and must do our duties without repining.

Take our life as we might find it.

Live it for the best good of others and never mind about the results.

They were not our affair.

She said men who did like this would have a noble and beautiful reward by-and-by in another world.

And although we animals would not go there, to do well and right without reward would give to our brief lives a worthiness and dignity which in itself would be a reward.

18 Saint Bernard Mixes That You Would Find Adorable - TheGoodyPet

So we said our farewells and looked our last upon each other through our tears.

The last thing she said – keeping it for the last to make me remember it the better, I think, was:

In memory of me, when there is a time of danger to another do not think of yourself, think of your mother and do as she would do.

Do you think I could forget that?

No.

Adrian the Saint Bernard Mix | St bernard mix, Puppies, Puppy funny memes

It was such a charming home – my new one.

A fine great house with pictures and delicate decorations and rich furniture and no gloom anywhere.

All the wilderness of dainty colours lit up with flooding sunshine.

And the spacious grounds around it and the great garden – oh, greensward and noble trees and flowers, no end!

What Is A Victorian Style House? - Victorian House Design Style

And I was the same as a member of the family.

And they loved me and petted me.

Mrs. Gray was 30, and so sweet and so lovely, you cannot imagine it.

And Sadie was 10, and just like her mother, just a darling slender little copy of her, with auburn tails down her back, and short frocks.

And the baby was a year old, plump and dimpled and fond of me, and never could get enough of hauling on my tail and hugging me and laughing out loud its innocent happiness.

And Mr. Gray was 38, tall and slender and handsome, a little blad in front, alert, quick in his movements, businesslike, prompt, decided, unsentimental, with that kind of trim-chiselled face that just seems to glint and sparkle with frosty intellectuality!

He was a renowned scientist.

8,945 BEST Family Silhouette With Dog IMAGES, STOCK PHOTOS & VECTORS |  Adobe Stock

The laboratory was not a book or a picture or a place to wash your hands in.

It is filled with jars and bottles and electrics and wires and strange machines.

Every week other scientists came there and sat in the place and used the machines and discussed and made what they called experiments and discoveries.

Often I came too and stood around and listened and tried to learn, for the sake of my mother and in loving memory of her.

Try as I might, I was never able to make anything out of it at all.

ArtStation - Victorian Attic Lab, Ewan Tennent

Other times I lay on the floor in the mistress’ workroom and slept, she gently using me as a footstool, knowing it pleased me, for it was a caress.

Other times I spent an hour in the nursery and well tousled and made happy.

Other times I watched by the crib there, when the baby was sleeping and the nurse out for a few minutes on the baby’s affairs.

Other times I romped and raced through the grounds and the garden with Sadie until we were tired out, then slumbered on the grass in the shade of the tree while she read her book.

Why The Border Collie St Bernard Mix Is A Great Family And Working Dog?

The servants in our house were all kind to me and were fond of me, and so, as you see, mine was a pleasant life.

There could not be a happier dog than I was nor a more grateful one.

I will say this for myself, for it is only the truth:

I tried in all ways to do well and right and honour my mother’s memory and her teachings and earn the happiness that had come to me as best as I could.

8 Dogs ideas | dogs, saint bernard, st bernard mix

By-and-by came my little puppy and then my cup was full.

My happiness was perfect.

It was the dearest little waddling thing, so smooth and soft and velvety and had such cunning little awkward paws.

It made me so proud to see how the children and their mother adored it and fondled it and exclaimed over every little wonderful thing it did.

It did seem to me that life was just too lovely to…..

Moon Pack Dogs | Husky dog pictures, Cute dogs, Unique dog breeds

Then came the winter.

One day I was standing a watch in the nursery.

That is to say, I was asleep on the bed.

The baby was sleep in the crib, which was alongside the bed, on the side next to the fireplace.

It was the kind of crib that has a lofty tent over it made of a gauzy stuff that you can see through it.

The nurse was out and we two sleepers were alone.

Homeless dog rescues abandoned baby (PHOTOS) – Society – World – NOVA News  – Darik.News/en

A spark from the wood fire was shot out and it lit on the slope of the tent.

I suppose a quiet interval followed, then a scream from the baby awoke me.

There was that tent flaming up toward the ceiling!

Before I could think, I sprang to the floor in my fright and in a second was halfway to the door, but in the next half-second my mother’s farewell was sounding in my ears.

I was back on the bed again.

I reached my head through the flames and dragged the baby out by the waistband and tugged it along.

We fell to the floor together in a cloud of smoke.

Nursery Fender Fire Guard | Jamb

I snatched a new hold and dragged the screaming creature along and out at the door and around the bend of the hall and was still tugging away, all excited and happy and proud, when the master’s voice shouted:

Begone, you cursed beast!”

I jumped up to save myself, but he was wonderfully quick and chased me up, striking furiously at me with his cane, I dodging this way and that, in terror.

At last a strong blow fell upon my left foreleg, which made me shriek and fall, for the moment, helpless.

Watch: Drunk man beats a stray dog to death in UP's Ghaziabad

The cane went up for another blow, but never descended, for the nurse’s voice rang wildly out:

The nursery is on fire!

The master rushed away in that direction and my other bones were saved.

Town centre road closed as fire crews tackle blaze in children's nursery -  Stoke-on-Trent Live

The pain was cruel, but, no matter, I must not lose any time.

He might come back at any moment.

So I limped on three legs to the other end of the hall, where there was a dark little stairway leading up into a garret where old boxes and such things were kept, as I had heard say and where people seldom went.

I managed to climb up there, then I searched my way through the dark amongst the pile of things and hid in the most secret place I could find.

It was foolish to be afraid there, yet still I was.

So afraid that I held in and hardly even whimpered, though it would have been a comfort to whimper, because that eases the pain, you know.

But I could lick my leg and that did me some good.

Dog found lying on the street needs leg amputated - Galway Daily

For half an hour there was a commotion downstairs, shouting, and rushing footsteps, and then there was quiet again.

Quiet for some minutes and that was grateful to my spirit, for then my fears began to go down.

Fears are worse than pain – oh, much worse.

Then came a sound that froze me!

They were calling me – calling me by name – hunting for me!

16 Saint Bernard Mixes That Will Melt Your Cold, Unloving Heart - PetPress

It was muffled by distance, but that could not take the terror out of it.

It was the most dreadful sound to me that I had ever heard.

It went all about, everywhere, down there, along the halls, through all the rooms, in both stories, and in the basement and the cellar, then outside, and further and further away – then back, and all about the house again.

I thought it would never, never stop.

But at last it did, hours and hours after the vague twilight of the garret had long ago been blotted out by black darkness.

Top Activities For Border Collie Bernards - Wag!

Then in that blessed stillness my terrors fell little by little away.

I was at peace and slept.

It was a good rest I had, but I woke before the twilight had come again.

I was feeling fairly comfortable and I could think out a plan now.

I made a very good one, which was, to creep down, all the way down the back stairs, and hide behind the cellar door, and slip out and escape when the iceman came at dawn, whilst he was inside filling the refrigerator.

Then I would hide all day and start on my journey when night came.

My journey to –

Well, anywhere they would not know me and betray me to the master.

I was feeling almost cheerful now.

St Bernard Mix Breeds - Different Hybrids of this Big Beautiful Dog

Then suddenly I thought:

Why, what would life be without my puppy?

That was despair.

There was no plan for me.

I saw that I must stay where I was.

Stay and wait and take what might come.

30 Breeds That Are Mixed With Border Collie - PetPress

It was not my affair.

That was what life is.

My mother has said it.

Then –

Well, then the calling began again!

All my sorrows came back.

I said to myself:

The master will never forgive.

I did not know what I had done to make him so bitter and so unforgiving, yet I judged it was something a dog could not understand, but which was clear to a man and dreadful.

SPCA treating St. Bernard mix for gunshot wound | CTV News

They called and called – days and nights, it seemed to me.

So long that the hunger and thirst near drove me mad.

I recognized that I was getting very weak.

When you are this way you sleep a great deal, and I did.

Once I woke in an awful fright – it seemed to me that the calling was right there in the garret!

And so it was.

It was Sadie’s voice and she was crying.

My name was falling from her lips all broken, poor thing.

I could not believe my ears for the joy of it when I heard her say:

Come back to us – oh, come back to us and forgive – it is all so sad without our – “

The Saint Bernard Australian Shepherd Mix: Facts/Information

I broke in with such a grateful little yelp.

The next moment Sadie was plunging and stumbling through the darkness and the lumber and shouting for the family to hear:

She’s found! She’s found!”

Medium shot of a woman calling a dog - Stock Video Footage - Dissolve

The days that followed –

Well, they were wonderful.

The mother and Sadie and the servants – why, they just seemed to worship me.

They couldn’t seem to make me a bed that was fine enough, and as for food, they couldn’t be satisfied with anything but game and delicacies that were out of season.

Every day the friends and neighbours flocked in to hear about my heroism.

A dozen times a day Mrs. Gray and Sadie would tell the tale to newcomers, and say I risked my life to save the baby’s and both of us had burns to prove it.

And then the company would pass me around and pet me and exclaim about me, and you could see the pride in the eyes of Sadie and her mother.

When people wanted to know what made me limp, they looked ashamed and changed the subject.

Sometimes when people hunted them this way and that with questions about it, it looked to me as if they were going to cry.

Timmyfan Whispers: Interesting St. Bernard Mixed Dogs I've Seen On the  Internet

And this was not all the glory.

No, the master’s friends came, a whole twenty of the most distinguished people, and had me in the laboratory, and discussed me as if I was a kind of discovery.

Some of them said it was wonderful in a dumb beast, the finest exhibition of instinct they could call to mind.

But the master said, with vehemence:

It’s far above instinct.

It’s ‘reason’, and many a man, privileged to be saved and go with you and me to a better world by right of its possession, has less of it than this poor silly quadruped that’s foreordained to perish.

And then he laughed and said:

Well, look at me – I’m a sarcasm!

Bless you, with all my grand intelligence, the only thing I inferred was that the dog had gone mad and was destroying the child, whereas but for the beast’s intelligence – its ‘reason’, I tell you! – the child would have perished!

St. Bernard/Border Collie Mix (Archer Barker) - Imgur

They disputed and disputed and I was the very centre and subject of it all.

I wished my mother could know that this great honour had come to me.

It would have made her proud.

Male Border Collie

Then they discussed optics, as they called it, and whether a certain injury to the brain would produce blindness or not, but they could not agree about it.

Next, they discussed plants.

That interested me, because in the summer Sadie and I had planted seeds – I helped her dig the holes, you know – and after days and days a little shrub or a flower came up there.

It was a wonder how that could happen.

But it did.

I wished I could talk.

I would have told those people about it and shown them how much I knew and been all alive with the subject.

Dog helps her human with gardening. Watch adorable video | viral video on  internet today | Bhanu vlg - YouTube

But I didn’t care for the optics.

It was dull and when they came back to it again it bored me and I went to sleep.

Dog-Friendly Garden | Tips for the Perfect Pet-Friendly Green Space

Pretty soon it was spring and sunny and pleasant and lovely.

The sweet mother and the children petted me and the puppy good-bye and went away on a journey and a visit to their kin.

The master wasn’t any company for us, but we played together and had good times.

The servants were kind and friendly, so we got along quite happily and counted the days and waited for the family.

Irwin, PA - St. Bernard. Meet Ziggy a Pet for Adoption - AdoptaPet.com

One day those men came again and said now for the test.

They took the puppy to the laboratory.

I limped three-leggedly along, too, feeling proud, for any attention shown the puppy was a pleasure to me, of course.

They discussed and experimented, and then suddenly the puppy shrieked.

They set him on the floor and he went staggering around, with his head all bloody.

The master clapped his hands and shouted:

There, I’ve won – confess it!

He’s as blind as a bat!”

And they all said:

It’s so – you’ve proved your theory and suffering humanity owes you a great debt from henceforth.”

They crowded around him and wrung his hand cordially and thankfully and praised him.

Doggos! — What would you name her?? 9 week old Saint...

But I hardly saw or heard these things, for I ran at once to my little darling and snuggled close to it where it lay and licked the blood.

It put its head against mine, whimpering softly, and I knew in my heart it was a comfort to it in its pain and trouble to feel its mother’s touch, though it could not see me.

Then it drooped down, presently, and its little velvet nose rested upon the floor.

It was still and did not move any more.

Saint Bernard X Retriver in Balloch on Freeads Classifieds - Mixed Breed  classifieds

Soon the master stopped discussing a moment and rang in the footman and said, “Bury it in the far corner of the garden.“, and then went on with the discussion.

I trotted after the footman, very happy and grateful, for I knew the puppy was out of its pain now, because it was asleep.

We went far down the garden to the furthest end, where the children and the nurse and the puppy and I used to play in the summer in the shade of a great elm.

And there the footman dug a hole and I saw he was going to plant the puppy.

I was glad, because it would grow and become a fine handsome dog and be a beautiful surprise for the family when they came home.

I tried to help him dig, but my lame leg was no good, being stiff, you know, and you have to have two or it is no use.

When the footman had finished and covered little Robin up, he patted my head.

There were tears in his eyes and he said:

Poor little doggie, you SAVED ‘his’ child.

Video of Dog Burying Other Dog May Be a Lot Less Heartwarming Than It  Appears

I have watched two whole weeks and he doesn’t come up.

This last week a fright has been stealing upon me.

I think there is something terrible about this.

I do not know what it is, but the fear makes me sick and I cannot eat, though the servants bring me the best of food.

They pet me and come in the night and cry and say:

Poor doggie – do give it up and come home.

Don’t break our hearts!

And all this terrifies me the more and makes me sure something has happened.

I am so weak.

Since yesterday I cannot stand on my feet any more.

And within this hour the servants, looking toward the sun where it was sinking out of sight and the night chill coming on, said things I could not understand, but they carried something cold to my heart.

Those poor creatures! They do not suspect. They will come home in the morning and eagerly ask for the little doggie that did the brave deed and who of us will be strong enough to say the truth to them?

The humble little friend is gone where go the beasts that perish.

Why you shouldn't bury your pet in the backyard

It is said that dog is man’s best friend.

Sadly, I doubt whether man has been dog’s best friend.

How Did Dogs Evolve to Become Man's Best Friend?

Certainly it is good to see that the Turks provide water and food and shelter to the strays that roam the streets of its cities.

But God’s creatures are not merely receptacles for shelter and nourishment, they feel as much as we do and think as best as they can.

All creatures love and need to be loved.

And the power of love demands great compassion and commitment and responsibility.

And not all of us are capable of the compassion, commitment and resp

Abuse and abandonment: why pets are at risk during this pandemic

Humanity taught the pit bull aggression and the pit bull thus follows what it has been taught.

Which is how and why a child lies in hospital scarred, physically for now, psychologically for some time to come.

The dogs will probably be destroyed.

Many of their canine compatriots will perhaps pay a heavy price for the aggression visited upon one solitary child.

There are too many stray dogs, they say.

No, there are not enough homes.

My thoughts return to the young man sobbing behind his mask, grieving inside this manmade artificial platform shelter.

I curse the fear that keeps me from speaking with him, from asking how he is and if there is anything I could do, that I could say, that might bring him some modicum of comfort.

I remain quiet, distant, uninvolved.

I tell myself that this man’s problems are not my responsibility.

Much like the dog by the Porsuk River is not my responsibility..

Not my circus, not my monkeys, not my problem.

But this is a lie.

We are our brothers’ keepers.

And all humanity, all existence, is our responsibility.

I am honest with myself.

I am selfish and afraid to get involved.

Because life is messy, complicated, complex, and damnedably difficult.

Love ain’t easy.

Perhaps this is why it is such a rare and precious thing.

Rescue me: why Britain's beautiful lockdown pets are being abandoned | Pets  | The Guardian

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / “More pit bull attacks take place amid calls for shelters“, Daily Sabah, 28 December 2021 / Jennifer Hattam, “‘They see them as fellow citizens’: How Istanbul’s street dogs have found a place in society“, Washington Post, 18 March 2021 / “Stray animals under spotlight amid debate“, Hürriyet Daily News, 28 December 2021 / Mark Twain, A Dog’s Tale





			

Canada Slim and That Which Can’t Be Had

Eskisehir, Turkey, Friday 7 May 2021

It is odd what can get under one’s skin.

On Wednesday morning, just before leaving my apartment to catch a train to Konya, my only practical knife decided to break.

This afternoon I walked over to ES Park shopping centre and the sole store open in this latest “total” lockdown (MMM Migros) (not sure of the reason for the MMM) to buy a knife.

Anything that isn’t edible, save for newspapers, (perhaps they are edible as well?) has been cordoned off with sticky tape resembling that securing a crime scene investigation.

I was somewhat mystified last week as to why all alcoholic beverages were rendered off-limits to consumers and I figure that the rationale must be that alcohol drinking is a social activity and socializing spreads a pandemic.

But I am baffled and bothered as to why buying a frying pan or a knife or a pen constitutes a clear and present danger to the health of the Turkish people.

The argument I hear is that the pandemic is airborne but can be transmitted onto the surfaces of anything that has come into contact with the virus.

But if this is so and a person with the virus comes into the store and shops only in the designated areas, he/she will nevertheless transmit the virus onto the edibles anyway.

The virus’ spread isn’t so much affected by too many tactile surfaces that a person can touch, but rather too many people who won’t wear their masks in the correct manner, with both mouth and nose completely covered.

Honestly, I am not certain if the powers that be truly know what to do in these extraordinary times.

Flag of Turkey

Above: Flag of Turkey

If the media can be believed, people last week continued to violate Turkey’s curfew rules after the country entered a “full” lockdown that will last for 17 days.

COVID-19 in Turkey - Cumulative positive cases per 100k residents.svg
Above: Covid-19 in Turkey – Cumulative positive cases per 100k residents as of 7 May 2021 (The darker the region, the more cases therein) (As of 11 May 2021, there are 5, 059, 033 cases (29% of the population) with 43,589 deaths.)

Some 66,161 people broke curfew rules between 26 April and 3 May, the country’s Interior Ministry said on Monday (3 May).

A man walks on otherwise busy Istiklal Avenue, in Istanbul, Turkey, May 3, 2021. (AA PHOTO)

The Ministry, however, stressed that a majority of citizens obeyed the lockdown which came into effect on the evening of 29 April.

Data provided by the Ministry show that the number of people who violated the weeknight curfews and weekend lockdowns stood at 42,000 between 19 April and 26 April, rising from 33,000 in the previous week.

Ministry of the Interior (Turkey) logo.svg
Above: Logo of the Ministry of the Interior

From 5 April and 12 April, authorities took procedural and administrative actions against a total of 24,400 violators.

The increase in the number of people subjected to actions for violating the curfews could be related to intensified nationwide in the wake of the full lockdown.

Limited violations reported during weekend COVID-19 curfew in Turkey |  Daily Sabah

The government imposed the full lockdown in an attempt to curb the spread of the corona virus after the daily infections and deaths from Covid-19 climbed record highs.

SARS-CoV-2 without background.png

During the 17-day lockdown, most businesses, except for those operating in essential industries, will be closed while intercity travel is also banned and subjected to special permission from authorities.

Authorities are issuing special permits for employees who are exempted from the lockdown.

The Interior Ministry reported on 3 May that nearly 4 million such permission documents have been issued via the online registry system e-Devlet.

Long lockdown triggers exodus from big cities - Turkey News

Police units are carrying our inspections, setting up checkpoints in and around cities and on highways to enforce the travel ban.

The authorities are also issuing special travel exemption permits for certain emergencies.

Curfew violations continue amid full lockdown - Turkey News

I have seen checkpoints.

I have not seen arrests.

I have not read anything about anyone arrested.

Over 2 million exemption permits issued during Turkey's lockdown - Turkey  News

It seems that, if the media is to be believed, more than 10 million people in Turkey have already been given both doses of the Covid-19 vaccine, while nearly 14.4 million people have received their first dose of the jab, data from the country’s Health Ministry have shown.

Turkey's COVID-19 vaccination goes on at full speed

Turkey launched its vaccination program against the corona virus on 14 January.

To date, it had administered more than 24.4 million doses of the injection to its citizens, including the first and the second doses.

COVID-19 vaccinations in Turkey exceed 1 million in 1st week | Daily Sabah

Turkey has inked agreements for a total of 240 million doses of the corona virus vaccines developed by the Chinese firm Sinovac, Pfizer/BioNTech and Russia’s Sputnik V, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca reminded following a Science Board meeting on 5 May, noting that there is three times the country’s population.

See caption
Above: Russia’s Sputnik 5 vaccine

Fahrettin Koca 20200311 2.jpg
Above: Fahrettin Koca

To date, Turkey has signed deals for 100 million doses of the Pfizer-BioNTech and another 50 million doses of the Sputnik V vaccines.

Covid19 vaccine biontech pfizer 3.jpg

It has been using the Chinese and the Pfizer/BioNTech injections in its inoculation drive.

SINOVAC COVID-19 vaccine.jpg

Koca also said that the daily number of virus cases has declined over the past 15 days thanks to measures and restrictions imposed to curb the spread of Covid-19.

The effects of this decline have also started to be seen in hospitalization with a ten-day lag, he added.

The government introduced a full lockdown from 29 April to 17 May after Covid-19 infections hit record highs, hitting around 60,000 daily cases.

Infections fell below 50,000 starting 23 April and continued to decline gradually in the following days, coming down to some 26,500 on 5 May.

The favourable impact of those measures will also be seen in the numbr of patients in critical condition and fatalities in these days,” Koca said.

COVID-19: Turkey announces full lockdown from Thursday

Talk on the street does not seem to correlate with the media’s spin.

No one seems to know anyone who has received the vaccine.

Rumours suggest that the vaccine may be running out.

No one knows what to believe or whom to trust.

All I know is I cannot buy a knife for my kitchen and must eat meat from my hand and tear it apart with my teeth.

Fortunately, I still have fire and language, so I haven’t completely devolved yet.

Premium Vector | Cartoon caveman eating meat

Still the lockdown has put a number of things into perspective.

Namely, a keen awareness of loss, a disappointment, an anger, a deeply-felt sadness, in the belated recognition that what we once had is now unavailable to us.

We cannot acquire what we once did, cannot celebrate life as we once did, cannot move about as we once did, cannot live as we did before.

We do survive nonetheless.

We learn to do without.

We learn to not do what we once did.

Turkish Lockdown Calls Grow as Epidemic Continues | Voice of America -  English

I am reminded of the movie Down and Out in Beverly Hills.

Imagine a world where you are surrounded by everything you cannot have, seeing others do what you cannot do.

They who have cannot perceive a life of the have-nots until they themselves have not.

You cannot truly comprehend a life of prosperity if you yourself have not prospered.

So we try to find what joys we can within the realities we know.

For some, there comes a time when the reality they know must be abandoned for the chance of finding another reality.

Down and Out in Beverly Hills.jpg

For some, there is a moment when they wonder what Shakespeare really meant when he wrote:

There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio,
Than are dreamt of in your philosophy
.”


– Hamlet (Act 1, Scene 5, Stanzas 167-8), Hamlet to Horatio

Is there more to life, more to living, than what we know, than what we have experienced?

A lockdown puts life into perspective.

We see what we once had and appreciate it only once it is denied us.

It is not without irony that this particular lockdown is happening within the month of Ramadan.

Turkey braces for toughest lockdown against COVID-19 pandemic | Daily Sabah

Ramadan, the month of the fast, whose name comes from the Arabic root r-m-d, “the green heat“, from the soaring heat in the deserts of Arabia, is the 9th month of the Muslim calendar.

It is special month for Muslims, and thus for Turks, as it was during this month that Muhammad received the call to be a prophet, and God (Allah) Himself instructed that this month should be the official month of fasting.

Ramadan is abut remembering to take nothing for granted and about removing daily distractions so that the mind is better able to focus on closeness with Allah.

On a practical level, this means no eating, drinking, smoking or sex from dawn to sunset for an entire month.

In the wider scheme, while fasting it is especially encouraged that the believer avoids sin, such as lying, violence, greed, lust, slander, anger, and evil thoughts.

The fast is about self-discipline and a Muslim is called to make an extra effort to cultivate a more spiritual outlook.

Ramadan montage.jpg
Above: Images of Ramadan

The observance of Ramadan is regarded as a source of blessing and not as a time of trial.

Muslims generally look forward to this time of bodily and spiritual cleansing, and do not view it as being arduous or a chore.

They hold it as a special period that brings them back in touch with the values at the heart of their faith.

They see it as a healthy time, during which rich foods are avoided and their digestive systems can be rested and cleaned.

At Ramadan, Muslims are given the opportunity to master all their natural appetites, mental, spiritual and physical.

It also allows them an opportunity to get together with friends and family, and to share their food after the hour of sunset.

According to Islamic tradition, during this time the gates of Heaven are opened, the gates of Hell are closed, and Satan is put into chains.

Hence, fasting during Ramadan is considered thirty times better than at any other time, although many Muslims do fast at other times, some even on a weekly basis.

Mobile Behavior in Turkey During Ramadan - AdColony

(By this standard, I am certain that I could never be a Muslim.)

Muslims welcome holy month of Ramadan

Ramadan observances do vary slightly from culture to culture, but most Muslims begin the fast, according to the Qu’ran‘s instruction, at the moment when dawn makes it possible to distinguish “a white thread from a black thread“.

They then break the fast as soon as possible at sunset, eating a light meal later in the evening, with perhaps a final light meal in the early pre-dawn hours before the next morning’s fast begins – but this all depends on local custom and personal preference.

The evening is a time of relaxation, of visiting, of prayer and Qur’anic recitation.

Printed Qur’ans divide the text into thirty sections to facilitate reading the whole book during Ramadan.

Many Muslims accomplish this.

Sounds of recitation punctuate the evening air.

Many go to the mosque during the evening, especially during the last ten days of the month.

Çay, Dolma and Künefe: A Look into a Delicious Turkish Ramadan | Mvslim

(Or would if the lockdown permitted.)

Government weighing stricter measures during Ramadan - Turkey News

Muslims say that Ramadan demands a certain spiritual attitude towards the body.

The hunger, supplemented by the prohibition on perfume and make-up, brings a Muslim back every year to what is regarded as a more natural state.

Whether it be experiencing the hunger of the less fortunate, expiating one’s sins, forgiving others theirs, renewing contact with one’s nearest and dearest, or simply taming one’s passions, a time of fasting is about reflection and contemplation, a return to the core values of Islam, and a reassessment of what it means to be a Muslim.

Whatever cultural variances exist between customs at Ramadan, overall the month is seen by Muslims as a very special time.

There is a feeling of camarderie.

The fast is a great leveller and brings out the best in everyone, whether rich or poor.

The problem is camarderie breeds contagion and thus the reason for the lockdown.

For our individual survival we must remain apart, separate from one another.

Collective Ramadan prayers cancelled amid virus scare in Turkey | Daily  Sabah

And it was this theme that followed our footsteps this past Valentine’s Day as we prepared ourselves for the separation to come….

Antique Valentine 1909 01.jpg

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Sunday 14 February 2021

I cannot speak of the lives of other married couples, for no man can know of another man’s relationship with his maiden.

Or put another way, in the words of Charlie Rich:

No one knows what goes on behind closed doors.

Cover of the Behind Closed Doors album with the singer Charlie Rich in a cowboy hat.

As well, I am an introverted man from a culture and a generation where men, even the closest of friends, do not share details of intimacy about their significant others.

The secrets of the bedroom are rarely the confessions of the barroom (or the blogpost).

I am not of the generation which tells all online, though I cannot deny that there is within me a certain begruding admiration for those who are courageous enough to reveal themselves so fearlessly and publicly.

I am not as brave.

Above: Photo from Jupiter’s Lair WordPress blog (https://jupiterslair.com)

On this Valentine’s Day 2021 the headlines were as grim as they ever were with the predominant headlines still those connected with Covid-19.

Stop Reading the News: A Manifesto for a Happier, Calmer and Wiser Life:  Dobelli, Rolf: Amazon.com.tr

Peru’s Foreign Minister Elizabeth Astete resigned amid an uproar over secret vaccination before the country receives one million doses for health workers.

Peru’s Foreign Minister has resigned amid uproar over government officials being secretly vaccinated against corona virus before the country recently received 1 million doses for health workers facing a resurgence in the pandemic.

Esther Astete 02 (cropped).jpg
Above: Elizabeth Astete

President Francisco Sagasti confirmed that Elizabeth Astete had stepped down and told a local television channel that Peruvians should feel “outraged and angry about this situation that jeopardises the enormous effort of many Peruvians working on the frontline against Covid”.

Francisco Sagasti president.jpg
Above: Peruvian President Francisco Sagasti

The scandal erupted on Thursday when the former President Martín Vizcarra, who was dismissed by Congress on 9 November over a corruption allegation, confirmed a newspaper report that he and his wife had secretly received shots of a vaccine from the Chinese state pharmaceutical company Sinopharm in October.

Martin Vizcarra (Presidential Portrait) (cropped).jpg
Above: Martin Vizcarra

Pilar Mazzetti resigned as Health Minister on Friday after legislators accused her of concealing information.

Foto-Oficial-Pilar-Mazzetti-MinSa.jpg
Above: Pilar Mazetti

Sagasti tweeted that during Vizcarra’s administration, an extra 2,000 doses of the vaccine had been received from Sinopharm and that “some senior public officials were vaccinated”.

Sinopharm COVID-19 vaccine (2021) K (cropped).jpeg
Above: Sinopharm Coivd-19 vaccine

The new Health Minister, Óscar Ugarte, said on Sunday night that Sagasti had ordered the resignation of all officials who secretly received the Chinese vaccine.

Ugarte said an investigation was under way to identify officials who were secretly vaccinated in September.

Óscar Ugarte.jpg
Above: Óscar Ugarte

Astete, who led the Peruvian negotiations to buy the 1 million doses of Sinopharm’s vaccine, released a statement on Sunday in which she said she was vaccinated with the first dose on 22 January.

“I am aware of the serious mistake I made, which is why I decided not to receive the second dose.”

Peru bought the vaccines in early January at a price that is secret under the contract.

Doctors and nurses have protested because they were not included in the first lists to be vaccinated with doses received from Sinopharm.

The pandemic has caused the deaths of 306 doctors and 125 nurses, with more than 20,000 doctors and nurses being infected.

Peru has had more than 1.2 million cases of corona virus, with 43,703 deaths related to Covid-19, according to Johns Hopkins University’s tally of cases around the world.

Flag of Peru
Above: Flag of Peru

Myanmar’s new military regime warned the public not to harbour fugitive political activists on Sunday (14 February) after issuing arrest warrants for veteran democracy campaigners supporting massive nationwide anti-coup protests.

Much of the country has been in uproar since the previous week when soldiers detained Aung San Suu Kyi and ousted her government, ending a decade-old fledgeling democracy after generations of junta rule.

Remise du Prix Sakharov à Aung San Suu Kyi Strasbourg 22 octobre 2013-18.jpg
Above: Aung San Suu Kyi

Security forces have stepped up arrests of doctors and others joining a civil disobedience movement that has seen huge crowds throng streets across big urban centres and isolated villages in mountainous frontier communities.

Police are now hunting seven people who have lent vocal support to the protests, including some of the country’s most famous democracy activists.

If you find any fugitives mentioned above or if you have information about them, report to the nearest police station,” said a notice in state media on Sunday.

Those who receive them will face action in accordance with the law.

Above: Thousands of protesters participate in an anti-military rally in Yangon

Among the list of fugitives was Min Ko Naing, who spent more than a decade in prison for helping lead protests against an earlier dictatorship in 1988 while a university student.

They are arresting the people at night and we have to be careful,” he said in a video published Saturday to Facebook, skirting a junta ban on the platform, hours before his arrest warrant was issued.

They could crack down forcefully and we will have to be prepared.”

MKN2.jpg
Above: Min Ko Naing

The 1988 protests vaulted Aung San Suu Kyi to the top of Myanmar’s democracy movement, and the Nobel laureate spent years under house arrest as a prisoner of the generals.

She has not been seen in public since she was detained on 1 February alongside top aides.

Nearly 400 others have been arrested in the days since including many of Aung San Suu Kyi’s top political allies, according to the Assistance Association for Political Prisoners monitoring group.

Assistance Association for Political Prisoners logo.png
Above: Logo of the Assistance Association for Political Prisoners (AAPP)

Military leader Min Aung Hlaing suspended requiring warrants for home searches and limiting detentions without court orders to 24 hours as part of several legal manoeuvres issued on Saturday.

Min Aung Hlaing in April 2019 (cropped).jpg
Above: Min Aung Hlaing

People in some urban neighbourhoods have begun forming neighbourhood watch brigades to monitor their communities overnight – defying a junta curfew – and prevent the arrests of residents participating in the civil disobedience movement.

Crowds returned to the streets of Yangon on Sunday, with hundreds massing on an intersection near the commercial capital’s famed Shwedagon Pagoda.

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Above: Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

A day earlier, Buddhist monks gathered outside the city’s US embassy and chanted the Metta Sutta, a prayer that urges protection from harm.

We wanted them to know most citizens in Myanmar are against the military,” said Vicittalankara, one of the participants.

Anger over arrests in Myanmar at anti-coup protests - News Chant

The country’s new military leadership has so far been unmoved by a torrent of international condemnation.

An emergency session of the UN Human Rights Council on Friday called for the new regime to release all “arbitrarily detained” people and for the military to hand power back to Aung San Suu Kyi’s administration.

United Nations Human Rights Council Logo.svg
Above: Logo for the United Nations Human Rights Council (UNHRC)

Solidarity protests have been staged in neighbouring Thailand, home to a large community of Myanmar migrant workers, as well as the United States, Japan and Australia.

But traditional allies of the country’s armed forces, including Russia and China, have dissociated themselves from what they have described as interference in Myanmar’s “internal affairs“.

The junta insists it took power lawfully and has instructed journalists in the country not to refer to itself as a government that took power in a coup.

We inform journalists and news media organisations not to write to cause public unrest,” said a notice sent by the information ministry to the country’s foreign correspondents’ club late on Saturday.

It also instructed reporters to follow “news media ethics” while reporting events in the country.

Flag of Myanmar
Above: Flag of Myanmar

Guinea has declared an Ebola epidemic after three people died and four others became ill in the country’s southeast.

The seven people fell ill with diarrhoea, vomiting and bleeding after attending a burial in Goueke, near the Liberian border.

The infected patients have been isolated in treatment centres, the health ministry said on Sunday.

Faced with this situation and in accordance with international health regulations, the Guinean government declares an Ebola epidemic,” the ministry said in a statement.

The deaths are the first in Guinea since a 2013-2016 epidemic which left 11,300 dead across West Africa [File: Cellou Binani/AFP]

Health Minister Remy Lamah said officials were “really concerned” about the deaths, the first since a 2013 – 2016 epidemic  – which began in Guinea – left 11,300 dead across West Africa.

The vast majority of cases were in Guinea, Liberia and Sierra Leone.

A second round of tests is being carried out to confirm the latest Ebola diagnosis and health workers are working to trace and isolate the contacts of the cases, state health agency ANSS said.

Pourquoi les travailleurs de la santé sont importants, par Dr. Col. Rémy  Lamah - YouTube
Above: Remy Lamah

It reported Guinea would contact the World Health Organization (WHO) and other international health agencies to acquire Ebola vaccines.

The vaccines have greatly improved survival rates in recent years.

Dr Matshidiso Moeti, the WHO Regional Director for Africa, said the resurgence of Ebola in Guinea was a “huge concern”.

Health teams in Guinea are on the move to quickly trace the path of the virus and curb further infections,” she said.

WHO is supporting the authorities to set up testing, contact-tracing and treatment structures and to bring the overall response to full speed.”

World Health Organization Logo.svg

Speaking to Al Jazeera from the Guinean capital, Conakry, Dr Yuma Taido – of the International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies – said it was not clear how people had come into contact with the virus.

We are preparing to manage the outbreak.

We can’t explain yet how this epidemic came about.

The response team are heading to the epicentre of the outbreak from today,” Taido said.

Two flags waving
Above: Flags of the Red Cross and the Red Crescent

Meanwhile next door in Liberia, President George Weah on Sunday put his country’s health authorities on heightened alert.

Weah “has mandated the Liberian health authorities and related stakeholders in the sector to heighten the country’s surveillance and preventative activities in the wake of reports of the emergence of the deadly Ebola virus disease in neighbouring Guinea”, his office said in a statement.

President George Weah in 2019 (cropped).jpg
Above: Liberian President George Weah

Neighouring DRC has faced several outbreaks of the illness, with the WHO on Thursday confirming a resurgence three months after authorities declared the end of the country’s latest outbreak.

DRC, which declared the six-month epidemic over in November, confirmed a fourth case in North Kivu province on Sunday.

The widespread use of Ebola vaccinations, which were administered to more than 40,000 people, helped curb the disease.

Flag of Democratic Republic of the Congo
Above: Flag of the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC)

The 2013 – 2016 spread sped up the development of the vaccine against Ebola, with a global emergency stockpile of 500,000 doses planned to respond quickly to future outbreaks, the vaccine alliance Gavi said in January.

Gavi, the Vaccine Alliance

Insurgents killed at least 11 civilians and three soldiers in the northeastern Democratic Republic of Congo on Sunday, the army said.

Fighters from the Allied Democratic Forces (ADF) attacked the town of Ndalya in Ituri region, killing at least 11 civilians, Ituri province army spokesman Lieutenant Jules Ngongo told AFP.

He added that in the ensuing fighting “three members of the armed forces fell on the battlefield” and the troops “neutralised four ADF elements“.

The enemy retreated into the bush,” he said.

We are still pursuing them so that we can put the people out of danger.

Ndalya is about 100 kilometres (60 miles) from the Ituri capital Bunia.

16 Killed, Church Burned When Suspected Islamic Terrorists Attack Village  in Africa's DRC - Tendo Radio

After a month of relative calm, a resurgence of attacks attributed to the ADF began earlier this month.

Originally Muslim rebels from neighbouring Uganda, the ADF settled in the DRC in 1995.

Flag of the Allied Democratic Forces.svg
Above: Flag of the Allied Democratic Forces

The UN has said 468 deaths in the east were attributed to the ADF in the second half of 2020, including 108 women and 15 children.

Flag of United Nations Arabic: منظمة الأمم المتحدة‎ Chinese: 联合国 French: Organisation des Nations unies Russian: Организация Объединённых Наций Spanish: Organización de las Naciones Unidas
Above: Flag of the United Nations

Militants of the outlawed Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK) have executed 13 kidnapped Turks, including military and police personnel, in a cave in northern Iraq, Turkish officials said on Sunday, amid a military operation against the group.

Forty eight PKK militants were killed during the military operation, while three Turkish soldiers were killed and three wounded, Defence Minister Hulusi Akar said in a statement.

Twelve of the kidnapped Turks had been shot in the head and one in the shoulder, he said.

Turkey launched the military operation against the PKK in northern Iraq’s Gara region, some 35 km (22 miles) south of the Turkish border, on 10 February to secure its frontier and find citizens who had been kidnapped previously, he said.

The governor of Malatya province in southeast Turkey named six soldiers and two police officers, kidnapped in separate incidents in 2015 and 2016, as being among those killed in the cave.

Three of the dead have yet to be identified in autopsies being carried out in Malatya.

One senior security source told Reuters that Turkish intelligence personnel were among the dead.

According to initial information given by two terrorists captured alive, our citizens were martyred at the start of the operation by the terrorist responsible for the cave,” Akar said at the operation’s control centre near the Iraq border.

Hulusi Akar (cropped, 2019).jpg
Above: Hulusi Akar

A statement on a PKK website said some prisoners it was holding, including Turkish intelligence, police and military personnel, had died during clashes in the area.

The group denied it had ever hurt prisoners.

The PKK, designated a terrorist group by Turkey, the United States and European Union, launched its armed insurgency in mainly Kurdish southeast Turkey in 1984 and more than 40,000 people have been killed in the conflict.

In the last two years Turkey’s fight against the PKK has increasingly focused on northern Iraq, where the group has its stronghold in the Qandil mountains on the Iranian border.

Flag of Kurdistan Workers' Party.svg
Above: Flag of the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK)

The presidency’s communications director Fahrettin Altun said on Twitter that as Turkey mourns it dead it also reiterates its commitment to “chase down every last terrorist hiding in their caves and safe houses”.

Our revenge will be painful.

Our justice will be swift,” he said, slamming the West’s “deafening silence” in the face of PKK attacks and pledging “steps against individuals and groups glorifying and encouraging terrorism at home and abroad”.

Fahrettin Altun'un paylaşımlarını yayan 'sahte hesap ordusu' ortaya çıktı
Above: Fahrettin Altun

In 2017, Turkey’s foreign minister said Ankara was working to bring back citizens he said had been kidnapped by the PKK, after Turkish media reported two Turkish intelligence officers had been captured by the PKK in Iraq.

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Above: Turkish Foreign Minister Mevlut Cavusoglu

Not in Peru, Myanmar, the Congo or in Turkey did the day seem to be expressive of love.

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As I have written in my last blogpost, Germans (of which my wife is one) generally do not celebrate Valentine’s Day in the manner in which my North American, British or Australasian friends do, but under my influence she has compromised over the years to the point where we would have a Valentine’s Day dinner, usually over the border in Konstanz, Germany.

But Valentine’s Day 2021 meant restaurants in both Switzerland and Germany were closed and though mask wearing outdoors was no longer practiced in Switzerland, dining out still remained impossible at this time.

Unable to dine out as we formerly did, we did something we often do when we wish to engage in discussion with one another.

We went for a walk.

Flag of Germany
Above: Flag of Germany

I will never claim to be an expert on relationships, despite having been in a long-term one with my wife for a quarter of a century.

But there seems to be a certain truism in the notion that they rarely evolve in the manner in which one had expected.

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Marriage, also called matrimony or wedlock, is a culturally recognised union between people, called spouses, that establishes rights and obligations between them, as well as between them and their children, and between them and their in-laws.

(I find the inclusion of “lock” in combination with “wed” interesting.)

Above: Love padlocks, Butchers’ Bridge, Ljubljana, Slovenia

And it is in this definition where problems arise between couples in the individual interpretation of what precisely is meant by “rights and obligations“, what one should get from the marriage, what one should give to the marriage.

Above: The ancient Germanic married couple Arminius (18 BC – 21 AD) and Thusnelda engaged in a romantic encounter

It is considered a cultural universal, but the definition of marriage varies between cultures and religions, and over time.

Above: Nepali wedding

I cannot speak to the variation of marriages between religions, though I am acquainted with couples from different faiths.

Ute and I are, statistically, of the same Christian faith, but beyond our origins she remains a good Catholic and I, at best, could be considered an uncommitted agnostic if not faithless barbarian.

R.E.M. - Losing My Religion.jpg

Our different cultural roots have caused tensions between us.

There are indeed differences between those raised as Canadians and those raised as Germans.

If I had to choose one main difference between our cultures it would be in our approaches to decision-making.

A vertical triband design (red, white, red) with a red maple leaf in the center.
Above: Flag of Canada

Generally speaking, from my perspective, a German will make a decision only if he / she has meticulously planned the outcome and has prepared for the inevitable result that was calculated.

A Canadian, on the other hand, while no less wise, is more laissez-faire in this regard, assuming that even the best-laid plans can, and probably will, go astray.

Embassy and Consulates of the Federal Republic of Germany in Canada | So  German!
Above: German Embassy, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

A German will do a thing only when he / she is certain that it is a wise and permissible thing to do.

A Canadian will do a thing until he / she is certain that it is not wise or permissible to do something.

Canadian Embassy Berlin / KPMB Architects with Gagnon + Gagnon Letellier  Cyr architectes + Smith Carter Architects + Engineers | ArchDaily
Above: Canadian Embassy, Berlin, Germany

A German will try something and will be utterly shocked when things do not go according to plan.

A Canadian will try and sometimes fail but is mostly undaunted by the setback and will simply try, try again.

At the top there is a rendition of St. Edward's Crown, with the crest of a crowned gold lion standing on a twisted wreath of red and white silk and holding a maple leaf in its right paw underneath. The lion is standing on top of a helm, which is above the escutcheon, ribbon, motto and compartment. There is a supporter of either side of the escutcheon and ribbon; an English lion on the left and a Scottish unicorn on the right.
Above: Coat of arms of Canada

As pairings go, it is unsurprisingly that there are marriages between Canadians and Germans, for their differences compliment one another.

Coat of arms of Germany
Above: Coat of arms of Germany

This Canadian should be more disciplined, more calculating in his life planning.

My German wife should have more faith in the instinct and intuition that make Canadians resilient to change.

A projection of North America with Canada highlighted in green
Above: Canada (in green)

Germans have a history where doing what is expected of them has led them down dark alleys in their past.

Canadians, though not without blemishes or mistakes, continue to evolve into compassionate humanists that have earned the world’s respect through hard, but brave, experimentation, trial and error, challenge and success.

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Above: Germany (in dark green) and the European Union (light green)

Typically, marriage is an institution in which interpersonal relationships, usually sexual, are acknowledged or sanctioned.

Above: Newlyweds leaving for their honeymoon boarding a Trans-Canada Air Lines plane, Montreal, 1946

I do not wish to discuss my intimate relations in such an open forum as this, but it does seem to me that there is pressure upon couples that sexual congress should eventually lead to matrimony.

In fact, a theme that is shared in both national cultures is the question:

So, where is this relationship going?

There is the notion that sex must lead to marriage, but nowhere is there written the promise that marriage will lead to the continuation of the intimacy that led them to the altar.

In a way I think that it is this expectation of result, that a relationship must be going somewhere, that it must be controlled and driven rather than simply evolving on its own, that is the cause of much of the tension that exists between couples.

The marriage of Inanna and Dumuzid
Above: Ancient Sumerian depiction of the marriage of the goddess Inanna and the god Dumuzid

In some cultures, marriage is recommended or considered to be compulsory before pursuing any sexual activity.

As much as I can see some wisdom in this thinking, for sex carries with it not only risks of contagion or pregnancy, along with the argument that the intimate act may be more than simply an intermingling of bodies but as well could be an intertwining of minds and souls, but there may also be wisdom in finding out before the commitment of matrimony whether or not there is an intimate compatability between the partners.

How important intimacy is to each partner, how intimacy should be experienced, is a bone of contention for many couples.

There are couples wherein sex is the pivot point upon which its continuance is predetermined, where there are expectations of quantity and quality that must be met for the relationship to survive.

A situation where one spouse demands from the other an obligation to meet certain standards of intimacy or else.

But I think when sex becomes an obligation rather than a spontaneous desire then the spark that founded the relationship no longer generates the heat that it once did.

Above: Wedding of Louis XIV of France (1638 – 1715) and Maria Theresa of Spain (1638 – 1683), an arranged marriage

I cannot nor will not speak for any other person but myself.

I consider the sharing of intimacy an amazing gift that is bestowed upon me.

I consider it a privilege, not a right.

If intimacy is not occuring in the frequency or intensity one hopes this is not the sole fault or responsibility of one’s partner to meet the other’s expectations.

Happiness is not given.

It is shared.

If a relationship hinges solely upon intimacy then perhaps the foundations of that relationship are not as strong as they could be.

Sex may be the spark that lit the flames, but it takes more than sex to keep the home fires burning.

A marriage ceremony is called a wedding.

And this is what a wedding is:

Ceremony, pomp lending, bestowing, significance to the circumstances.

How much planning, how much expense, is put into this (in theory) a once-in-a-lifetime event!

How much attention is given to making every bride’s whim realized!

From the moment a couple decides to make their union a formal affair comes the implicit understanding that formality has standards, expectations, that must be met.

What once was casual, natural and spontaneous, is transformed into demand and obligation.

Game over.

Time to get serious.

Above: White wedding, Pennsylvania, USA

Individuals may marry for several reasons, including legal, social, libidinal, emotional, financial, spiritual and religious purposes.

Marriage allows certain rights, creates social settings, adds permissiveness to intimacy and legitimacy to offspring, offers tax advantages and economic security, and makes the moral happy that the union has taken ethics into consideration.

Above: Roman Catholic white wedding, the Philippines

Whom they marry may be influenced by gender, socially determined rules of incest, prescriptive marriage rules, parental choice and individual desire.

Above: Muslim wedding, Tunisia

Certainly I am all for genetic sensibility.

There is both a physical and psychological wrongness in intimacy within one’s family.

Above: Family chart showing relatives who, in Islamic Sharia law, would be considered mahrim (or maharem): unmarriageable kin with whom sexual intercourse would be considered incestuous

And, yes, there are definitely prohibitions of behaviour that marriage dictates, many of them hinging upon avoiding the legal, social, emotional, financial and moral complications that violations of these dictates may produce.

As well, though the relationship should really be only about the wishes and desires of the partners, there are many influences upon the couple to conform and confirm the expectations of others, usually family and friends.

The word “should” is frequently inserted into these discussions.

Above: Hindu wedding, India

In an ideal world, the opinions of the world regarding the relationship of the couple should not matter to the couple.

Alas, this is not so.

Too often the opinions of others matter too much, sometimes to the point of mattering more than the stability of the marriage.

How often I have heard of partners not respecting one another’s opinion until confirmed by others outside the relationship!

Above: Wedding party, Lillienhoff Palace, Stockholm, Sweden

I have no parental role models to whom I have been able to seek counsel or comfort, so it has been difficult for me to fully comprehend those who do depend upon their families in steering the course of the relationship.

I assume that a family ultimately supports their members and seeks only their happiness.

I have been informed that this is not always the case in some families.

Where I think marriage becomes questionable is the division between what is good for the separate individuals within the union and what is good for the union.

It is this last upon which this blogpost hinges.

Above: Khmer wedding, Cambodia

In some areas of the world arranged marriage, child marriage, polygamy and forced marriage are practiced.

In other areas such practices are outlawed to preserve women’s rights or children’s rights (both female and male) or as a result of international law.

Above: Kandyan wedding, Sri Lanka

I cannot tell another culture how they should behave, for I know not enough about other cultures for me to act as judge and jury over others.

When it comes to arranged or forced marriages, personally, I want to accept the blame for my marriage.

I am not looking for others to blame!

I am against any union that is not made by the two consenting adults within that relationship.

Above: traditional wedding, Jomala, Äland, Finland

As for what constitutes a child, I am referring to not only physical maturity but emotional maturity as well.

Frankly, there are a number of adults for whom emotional maturity remains elusive.

Depending upon whom one speaks to, even I in my 50s might be considered less mature than I should be!

Above: Shinto wedding, Meiji Shrine, Tokyo, Japan

As for polygamy and promiscuity, I confess to being too lazy for infidelity or being involved with more than one woman.

Honestly, I can barely cope with one woman at a time.

I cannot imagine the complexity of more than one.

Above: The Harem Fountain, Frederick Arthur Bridgeman

Marriage has historically restricted the rights of women, who are sometimes considered the property of the husband.

I must confess that I have never been a fan of “my” to describe someone’s connection with me, for “my” does indeed infer ownership.

My” wife does not belong to me, no matter how much I might wish her to be with me.

It has always been, remains, and shall always be a woman’s choice to remain with me or not, to do as she will or not, regardless of how I may feel.

She makes her own choices.

It is up to me to decide if I can live with those choices.

I do not have the right to dictate what those choices should be.

Above: Assyrian wedding, Mechelen, Belgium

Around the world, primarily in developed democracies, there has been a general trend towards ensuring equal rights for women within marriage (including abolishing coverture, liberalizing divorce laws, and reforming reproductive and sexual rights) and legally recognizing the marriages of interfaith, interracial, and same sex couples.

Above: Jewish wedding

I am all for equal rights for women, for a relationship should be based on mutual respect for one another.

Above: Criticism about the Azeri (Azerbajan) society tradition from domestic violence to the social and political participation of women in the community – Azerbaijani magazine criticising the practice of forced marriage, domestic violence, and the social and political participation of women in society. Forced marriage is the theme for the cartoon with the caption in Russian Svobodnaya lyubov – Free love. The image should be read from right to left as Arabic script was used to write Azeri at the time. 
On the right: If you do not want to go voluntarily, I will take you by force. 
On the left: The akhun – cleric says: “Lady, since you don’t say anything, it seems that you agree. By the order of God I marry you to this gentleman.”

How a woman chooses to cover or not cover herself must always be her choice.

I do believe a woman is too easily influenced by what she thinks others think she should appear, but how she wishes to appear must remain her choice.

Woman wearing a niqab with baby
Above: Woman in niqab, Aleppo, Syria

Above: Young woman in a bikini, Waikiki Beach, Hawaii, USA

(Sadly, this is not a two-way street.

Too many women believe their men are fashionably stunted idiots when it comes to dressing themselves and are quick to tell their menfolk what they should or shouldn’t wear.)

MU Fashion Police (@MUFashionPolice) | Twitter

In respect to divorce, there is no question that marriage is not only a romantic liaison, but as well it is a financial arrangement, and it is in the division of assets that divorce can truly become a messy affair.

If marriage were not intertwined with emotions then discussion of its dissolution would be something that could be done dispassionately.

But fear and anger are invariably part and parcel of a marriage’s demise.

We live in a world where too often the disparity between a man’s wealth and a woman’s wealth is greatly in his favour.

This was a situation I never sought.

I have never wanted the reason a woman remains by my side, or the reason I remain by hers, to be financial.

A couple should not remain together because the financial consequences of their separation are too frightening to contemplate.

I married a doctor.

She married a freelance contract teacher and would-be writer.

Inequality of income between us was inherently clear from the start.

I do not want to be financially dependent on her and the nature of my chosen profession has meant that I have had to be.

Finances were never the reason for my seeking her hand in marriage nor my reason for remaining.

I have felt only pride in her accomplishments and I have done my best to contribute to our union despite the disparity of our incomes.

I have never wanted her to remain with me out of fear that a divorce would demand from her to financially recompense me for that disparity.

Above: Parsi wedding, Iran

Certainly living with a woman lends to a man’s life a home of comfort and luxuries that he might not otherwise have desired without her influence.

But of all that I might label as my possessions the only thing I truly value has been my library.

Our separation has taught me not only what it is that I need to live, but as well that which I must learn to live without.

As I age certainly I enjoy creature comforts like any other social animal, but the problem with possessions is that we don’t only possess them, they also possess us.

There is a kind of liberty, an intangible sense of freedom, to having the extent of your wealth defined only by what you can physically carry.

It is a liberty I once knew in my travelling days.

It was an insecure life, an uncertain life, but never have I felt so free.

I seek nothing from my wife except that which she voluntarily wishes to give me.

I have always sought a relationship of compassion, never compulsion.

Carefree Highway - Gordon Lightfoot.jpg

As for sexual and reproductive rights, I believe that a woman has a right over her own body and over whether she wishes to produce children or not.

Though our marriage was not blessed with children, I never felt that marriage must hinge upon them.

And intimacy is the icing on the cake, but it is not the cake itself.

As much as we desire exclusivity from and access to our significant partners’ form, ultimately we need to respect the other’s right to decide with whom or how often one wishes to be intimate.

Again, it all boils down to what one can live with and what one can live without.

Remaining with someone should always be a choice, never an obligation.

Above: Minangkabau wedding, Indonesia

As for matters of interfaith, interracial or diverse interpretations of sexual compatibility, I believe that in this crazy old violent world that we live in if two consenting adults can, against all odds, find love and companionship, then I have no right to tell them whether or not I think they should be together.

For example, I may not fully understand same sex couples, but they need neither my understanding nor my consent to live their lives as they so choose.

All that is needed is my respect and compassion for all human beings, regardless of whether their lives are similar to my own or not.

Above: Armenian wedding, Khor Virap, Armenia

Controversies continue regarding the legal status of married women, leniency towards violence within marriage, customs such as dowry and bride price, forced marriage, marrigeable age, and criminalization of premarital and extramarital sex.

Above: Catholic wedding, Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA

I cannot comment on legal status as I am untrained in legal matters, but I find myself thinking that what I wish for myself should be the same for others.

Above: Statue of Lady Justice –  a symbolic personification of the coercive power of a tribunal: a sword representing state authority, scales representing an objective standard and a blindfold indicating that justice should be impartial.

I cannot condone or justify violence of any kind towards anyone, whether this violence is physical or psychological.

Marriage does not give a person the right to injure their spouse.

Purple ribbon.svg
Above: A purple ribbon to promote awareness of Interpersonal Violence and Abuse Prevention

I cannor comprehend the notions of dowry and bride price, for they feel too much like the bride is a commodity to be traded.

Truth be told, a woman’s value is beyond measure, and to be loved by a woman is to be truly blessed.

A blessing does not carry a price tag.

Venus symbol
Above: Venus symbol, representing woman

As for the criminalization of premarital and extramarital sex, I feel that the government does not belong in the bedrooms of the nation, that the human body is not the province of legislation or compulsion, that the sharing of intimacy should remain a matter of personal choice and not a matter determined by obligation or fear of punishment.

No Place For The State In The Bedrooms Of The Nation - Pierre Trudeau  (1967) - YouTube

Marriage can be recognized by a state, an organization, a religious authority, a tribal group, a local community, or peers.

Above: 2004 California wedding between a Filipina bride and a Nigerian groom

I find this notion that something is not valid until it is recongized as such by others saddening.

I was married in a civil ceremony at the Freiburg im Breisgau City Hall.

The ceremony was conducted solely in German, a language I had not as yet learned.

As I stood there beside my bride, as the clerk spoke of our commitment to one another, I understood not a word of what was uttered.

An elbow in the ribs was a reminder of when it was appropriate to emit gutteral noises of consent.

The vows I took were words within my thoughts and meant with all my heart and soul.

They were unspoken then and remain unspoken now.

That is the burden and the price of being a man of my generation.

So much goes without saying.

Above: Freiburg im Breisgau Rathaus (City Hall), Baden.Württemberg, Germany

Marriage is often viewed as a contract.

And sadly it is.

A contract infers the idea of something legally binding.

Perhaps this is the origin of the word “wedlock“?

Above: An open-air wedding in Hong Kong of a British man and an Italian lady: the wedding was conducted by a Hong Kong-authorised lawyer.

A religious marriage is performed by a religious institution to recognize and create the rights and obligations intrinsic to matrimony in that religion.

Religious marriage is known variously as sacramental marriage in Catholicism, nikah in Islam, nissuin in Judaism, and various other names in other faith traditions, each with their own constraints as to what constitutes, and who can enter into, a valid religious marriage.

Above: Sundanese wedding inside a mosque, West Java, Indonesia

In a sense, the couple is seeking the counsel and consent of their faith granting validity to their union.

And herein lies the question of how important faith is in the lives of the couple.

There is much about religion for which I have the highest regard and the utmost respect.

But where others choose to follow a pilgrim’s progress I find that religion is constraining through its use of fear and compulsion.

I find that faith loses its free will when bound by the restraints of religion.

When a marriage is performed and carried out by a government institution in accordance with the marriage laws of the jurisdiction, without religious content, it is a civil marriage.

Civil marriage recognizes and creates the rights and obligations intrinsic to matrimony in the eyes of the state.

Above: Civil marriage by country: State recognizes civil marriages only (turqoise), State recognizes both civil and certain religious marriages (green),  State recognizes civil marriages (light blue),  State recognizes religious marriages only (red),  Civil marriages only for foreigners (pink),  Civil marriages only for non-Muslims (yellow)

How wonderful it is that the state allows a couple to marry, for now the opportunity to contribute to the state is assured.

Married people are such stable taxpayers and stable taxpayers keep a nation afloat.

Above: The civil wedding, 19th century Switzerland, Albert Anker

Some countries do not recognize locally performed religious marriage on its own and require a separate civil marriage for official purposes.

Above: A couple waiting to be married, Alghero, Sardinia, Italy

Without recognition, without sanction, just because we think and feel, do we actually exist as individuals, as a couple?

Black Suit White Shirt Mannequins Photos - Free & Royalty-Free Stock Photos  from Dreamstime

Conversely, civil marriage does not exist in some countries governed by a religious legal system, such as Saudi Arabia, where marriages contracted abroad might not be recognized if they were contracted contrary to Saudi interpretations of Islamic religious law.

Flag of Saudi Arabia
Above: Flag of Saudi Arabia

Ah, religious law!

A group of men who decided that they represent God and thus their will is not to be questioned.

Above: Verses from the Quran. The Quran is the official constitution of the country and a primary source of law. Saudi Arabia is unique in enshrining a religious text as a political document.

In countries governed by a mixed secular – religious legal system, such as Lebanon and Israel, locally performed civil marriage does not exist within the country, which prevents interfaith and various other marriages that contradict religious laws from being entered into in the country.

Flag of Lebanon
Above: Flag of Lebanon

However, civil marriages performed abroad may be recognized by the state even if they conflict with religious laws.

For example, in the case of recognition of marriage in Israel, this includes recognition of not only interfaith civil marriages performed abroad, but also overseas same-sex civil marriages.

Centered blue star within a horizontal triband
Above: Flag of Israel

I have on occasion been asked how I view same sex marriage.

I respond:

Why should straight people be the only fools?

Above: Street art by Niall O’Loughlin in Dublin encouraging people to vote yes in 2015’s Irish referendum

She pulls the walk from the Internet, for even here technology is insiduous, directing the free man to follow the calculating mind, the physical following the path of the artificial.

The map suggests a walk above the Lake of Constance (Bodensee) from west to east and back again, from Ermatigen to Gottlieben and return, 11 klicks, 11 kilometres.

Bodensee satellit.jpg
Above: Satellite image of the Lake of Constance (Bodensee)

A walk through shuttered streets and forest shadows and dappled sunlight above rippling waters.

We drive without commentary to the starting point at Ermatigen Station, for it is the pace of walking that sets the pace of talking.

White building with red tiled roof
Above: Ermatigen Station

This has been our way over the past few years.

We live together, we live apart.

She has her computer which she is invested in upon the sofa in the living room.

I have mine in a room we have dubbed my study by nature of the clutter with which I have filled it.

Separate Lives by Phil Collins and Marilyn Martin UK vinyl handwriting.png

She is a doctor and a damned good one at that.

She is needed, she is valued, her life makes a difference in the lives of others, and there have been so many children she has helped restore to health.

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It is February 2021 and a year has passed since I have been any use of all.

I am a teacher by profession, by training, by qualifications, but these are not as valued by Switzerland as those of my wife.

Flag of Switzerland
Above: Flag of Switzerland

Nine months have passed since I abandoned the steady income of Starbucks.

Starbucks Corporation Logo 2011.svg
Above: Logo of Starbucks

Four months have passed since I have done any work at all.

Income from teaching is an embarrassing trickle.

Not for seven years have I worked fulltime as a teacher.

I am not a victim, but neither am I victorious in my career endeavours.

Above: Old houses of St. Gallen – Much of my working life in Switzerland has been in this town.

Her star rises above the clouds while mine has sunk into forgotten oblivion and obscurity.

I do not, will not blame her, for where I am is the result of decisions I have made and the consequences of those acts.

That and a little thing known as a pandemic.

The buck stops here: why leadership requires taking responsibility
Above: US President Harry S. Truman (1884 – 1972)

A job is waiting for me in Turkey and this may be our last walk together for a long time.

This is her chance to gauge the temperature of the relationship.

This is her chance to sway me from my course, if I can indeed be swayed.

The sun is bright and the winter air is a balmy 2°.

Ermatingen village
Above: the village of Ermatingen

I have a hamstring injury that refuses to heal, that defies description, with a pain that comes and goes.

I do not if what ails my body is physical or psychological, but I do that my pace is no longer the same as it once was and no longer matches her own.

Already in the gentle climb from Ermatigen street to hillside pathway my hamstring bothers me.

Above: Aerial view of Ermatingen

She is younger than I, less patient than I, less tolerant than I of the weakness of men.

Her desire to speak with me, to insert herself into my thoughts, to impress herself within my feelings, lies beneath the surface of her countenance like an itch she cannot scratch.

She marches on ahead of me, simultaneously enjoying her physical independence and cursing her emotional dependence upon me.

Wanderung Thurgauer Seerücken (Müllheim – Steckborn, Bodensee) |  WegWandern.ch

She marches on, ever present in my horizon and yet out of my reach.

I am holding her back as she is holding me.

Portfolio - Geriatrix 3D | Foundry Community
Above: Geriatrix and Myopia (Asterix comics)

I look around me as if today might the last day I will ever see what can be seen.

For who knows what tomorrow brings?

The best laid plans of mice and men and all that.

These are the days of contagion.

These are the days of uncertainty.

And soon I will leave.

There are aspects of Switzerland I will miss: the landscape geographical and historical and literary, some friends I have made through teaching and Starbucks, and, in spite of everything, the presence of a woman who has filled my days and has haunted my thoughts for 25 years.

But it is the Swiss themselves, their mentality, their soullessness, that I will not miss.

I am not saying that all who are Swiss are to be painted with the same jaundiced brush nor would I suggest that there are not some amongst them who are decent, warm and wonderful folks.

But living as I have here in the past decade, one begins to get a general impression of things and of how people are.

Switzerland may be where I have lived but it has never truly felt like home.

I have lived here, but I will be damned if I want to die here, ever struggling to find my dignity, ever denied the hope of conforming to a place that merely tolerates foreigners rather than welcoming them with warmth and compassion.

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Above: The Matterhorn, Valais, Switzerland

These thoughts follow me as I lag behind, following in my wife’s footsteps.

I seek in the heritage of the towns we view some glimpse of memories worth preserving.

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Ermatingen is located on the southern shore of Lake Constance opposite the Island of Reichenau and consists of the districts Ermatingen and Triboltingen.

The lowest point of the municipality is the lake shore in the north and lies at approximately 396 metres above sea level, the highest point is on the lake ridge at the southern border of the municipality at 613 metres above sea level.

Above: Ermatingen

Ermatigen is a town that will not die, though not for lack of its foes trying.

Stone Age shoreline settlements were discovered in 1861 and studied extensively (1981 – 1983, with finds from the Pfyn, Horgen and Corded Ware cultures (4000 – 2500 BC.)

Above: Stone Age arrowhead

An Alamanni graveyard has also been found outside the early medieval village.

Above: Alemannic belt mountings, 7th century

There is nothing more conclusive than the bones of the dead to prove that there were lives of the living.

The village of Ermatingen is first mentioned in 724 as Erfmotingas.

(Which for all the world sounds to me like “Erf! Mounting gas!” and like mounting gas much of what was has vanished like a fart in a whirlwind.)

Ermatigen was part of the land owned by the Monastery of Reichenau, though why monks who have foresworn wealth and the company of chlidbearing women need property for is unclear to me.

The abbot was the landlord, judge and appointed the priest for the village.

Above: Monastery and cloisters of Reichenau Island

During the Council of Constance (1414 – 1418), one of the three counter-popes (or Antipopes), John XXIII, is said to have secretly fled Constance and came to Ermatingen.

Above: Council Hall, Konstanz

According to tradition, the Pope, as a thank you for the hospitality he received, allowed the Ermatinians to celebrate carnival again at this time.

The Ermatinger histories therefore attribute the Groppenfasnacht (known as the latest or last Carnival in the world) which takes place every three years on Sunday Laetare (Black Sunday) three weeks before Easter, to this Pope’s visit.

Above: Pope John XXIII (1370 – 1419)

Even after the conquest of Thurgau by the Swiss Confederation in 1460, the lower jurisdiction remained with the Abbot.

In the Swabian War of 1499 the village was destroyed by the Swabian army.

Above: Theatre of the Swabian War of 1499

Beyond the borders of Canton Thurgau (Switzerland) and the State of Baden-Württemberg (Germany), few have heard of and fewer have cared about a war that lasted only nine months.

But Thurgau has never forgotten nor forgiven Germany for this War.

Though Thurgau is heavily dependent upon trade with the German state on its northern flank, little excuse is needed to roundly curse the Germans time and time again in local newspaper editorials.

Flag of Thurgau
Above: Flag of Canton Thurgau

(The Swabian War of 1499 (Alemannic German (my wife’s dialect): Schwoobechrieg, Schwabenkrieg or Schweizerkrieg (“the Swiss War“) in Germany and Engadiner Krieg (“the War of the Engadin“) in Austria) was the last major armed conflict between the Old Swiss Confederacy and the House of Habsburg.

What had begun as a local conflict over the control of the Val Müstair and the Umbrail Pass in Graubünden soon got out of hand when both parties called upon their allies for help: the Habsburgs demanding the support of the Swabian League of Germany, and the Federation of the Three Leagues of Graubünden turning to the Swiss Eidgenossenschaft (Swiss Confederacy).

Santa Maria Val Muestair.JPG
Above: Santa Maria, Val Müstair, Graubünden, Switzerland

Umbrail.jpg
Above: Umbrail Pass, Val Müstair

Hostilities quickly spread from Graubünden through the Rhine valley to Lake Constance and even to the Sundgau in southern Alsace (France), and the westernmost part of Habsburg Austria.

Many battles were fought from January to July 1499, and in all but a few minor skirmishes, the experienced Swiss soldiers defeated the Swabian and Habsburg armies.

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Above: The Battle of Hard (Austria) (Monday 20 February 1499), one of the battles of the Swabian War, as depicted in the Luzerner Schilling (1513)

After their victories in the Burgundian Wars (1474 – 1477), the Swiss had battle tested troops and commanders.

Flag of Swiss Confederacy
Above: Flag of the Old Swiss Confederacy (1300 – 1798)

On the Swabian side, distrust between the knights and their foot soldiers, disagreements amongst the military leadership, and a general reluctance to fight a war that even the Swabian Counts considered to be more in the interests of the powerful Habsburgs than in the interest of the Holy Roman Empire proved fatal handicaps.

When his military high commander fell in the Battle of Dornach, where the Swiss won a final decisive victory,

Above: The Battle of Dornach (Austria) (Saturday 22 July 1499) – The picture shows several phases of the battle: in the middle the main battle underneath the castle of Dorneck (on the left the cavalry of the Swabian League under the banner of the red Saint Andrew’s Cross, on the right the Swiss infantry under the banners of Bern, Thun, Zurich and Solothurn); underneath the slaughtering of the fleeing troups by the Swiss at the river Birs.

Emperor Maxmilian I had no choice but to agree to a peace treaty signed on 22 September 1499, in Basel.

Above: Albrecht Dürer portrait of Emperor Maxmilian I (1459 – 1519)

The treaty granted the Confederacy far-reaching independence from the Empire.

Although the Eidgenossenschaft officially remained a part of the Empire until the Treaty of Westphalia (that ended the Thirty Years War) in 1648, the Peace of Basel (Friday 22 September 1499) exempted the Swiss from imperial jurisdiction and taxes, thus de facto acknowledged it as a separate political entity.)

Above: The Milanese envoy presents his peace proposals to Maximilian’s delegation at the city hall of Basel.
A delegate from Lucerne (front left, in the blue-white dress) translates. (Luzerner Schilling).

By the 16th century, Ermatingen was on the way to becoming a town, with a high and low council, a court and various privileges.

In 1660 the town was granted market rights.

After the incorporation of the Abbey of Reichenau into the Diocese of Constance (Konstanz) in 1540, the lower court rights were held by the Bishop, until 1798.

Above: Ermatingen and Reichenau Island

The parish originally ran by the lake to the Seerücken Mountains, and, in the High Middle Ages, included Mannenbach and Triboltingen.

The church of Ermatingen was built in 1359 and was incorporated into the Abbey of Reichenau.

In 1528 it turned to the Protestant Reformation.

This meant that the Catholic Abbey (and after 1540 the Catholic Bishop of Constance) had the right to appoint the town priest in the mainly Reformed parish.

This situation remained until 1804, when the town acquired the right to appoint their own priest.

The town church became a shared church in 1546.

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Above: The Parity Church of St. Albin, Ermatingen

In 1756 the community acquired rights to most itself, except for the mills and water rights.

In 1763 the guild of master shoemakers opened in Ermatingen.

By the end of the 18th century, it possessed the internal customs and navigation rights.

In the 19th century, fishing, cereals grains, fruit, hemp and viticulture were the basis of the villagers economy.

After the defeat of Napoleon I, many French nobles settled at the Untersee (the Lower Lake of the Bodensee).

Above: Jacques-Louis David portrait of Napoleon I (1769 – 1821)

With the expansion of the Seestrasse (Lake Road) (1823), the steamship company on the Lake (since 1825) and the railway (1875), the town saw increased traffic.

In 1835, the Ermatinger Hartmann Friedrich Ammann founded the Cantonal Rifle Association together with Prince Louis Napoleon (Napoleon III) (in the Restaurant Hirschen (Stag).

Above: Alexandre Cabanel portrait of Napoleon III (1808 – 1873)

Ermatingen Hotel Hirschen: Ansichtskarten-Center Onlineshop
Above: Restaurant Hirschen, Ermatigen

After 1870, tourism became a major industry in Ermatingen.

At the end of the 19th century the mechanical embroidery and trans-shipping industries entered the town.

In 1848 a carpentry factory moved into the town, and in 1936 it became the Jacques Goldinger AG company.

In 1875 a tin can and aluminum products factory (Louis Sauter AG) opened in Ermatingen, followed by several other manufacturing companies.

Pack Aktuell | Gruppo ASA erwirbt italienisches Werk für  chemisch-technische Weissblechverpackungen von Crown

The Swiss National Railway station opened on 17 July 1875 on the Etzwilen–Konstanz/Kreuzlingen Hafen railway line, part of the sea line.

This connected Ermatingen to the national rail network. 

Logo
Above: Logo of Swiss National Railways

During the 20th century agriculture became increasingly less important.

The commercial fisheries have mostly vanished, though some fish breeding and the traditional “Gropp Carnival” remain in town.

Sallelujah Gugge Zürich

The UBS (United Bank of Switzerland) Training Center at Schloss Wolfsberg (Wolf Mountain Castle)(opened in 1975) and the Entrepreneurs’ Forum Lilienberg (since 1989) have turned Ermatingen into a nationally known training site (in 2000 almost two thirds of jobs were in the services sector).

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Schloss Wolfsberg – Michael's Beers & Beans
Above: Schloss Wolfsberg (Wolf Mountain Castle)

Above: Villa Lilienberg

In summer, the village can also be reached by cruise ship (line Schaffhausen-Kreuzlingen of the Swiss ship company Untersee & Rhein.

Ermatingen and the surrounding area are supplied with radio programmes by Swisscom from the German Lake Constance Island of Reichenau via the Reichenau broadcasting station.

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An important custom here is “gangfish shooting“.

This was first carried out in 1937 and is the largest winter shooting in Switzerland.

It attracts hundreds of gunmen to Ermatingen every December.

The gangfish, prepared according to a special recipe, is eaten at this time.

What a gangfish actually is, neither Wikipedia nor Google can tell me.

FACTSHEET VEREIN KULINARISCHES ERBE DER SCHWEIZ

In winter, Ermatinger fishermen lived from water bird hunting.

After constant denunciation of this hunt, nature and bird conservation associations launched a popular initiative to abolish it.

In the following voting campaign there was a lot of controversy about this hunt, which was called “Belchenschlacht” (the basin battle) by conservationists.

The initiative was adopted in 1984 as the first ever popular initiative in the canton of Thurgau with a majority of 1,000 votes.

Since the winter of 1984/1985, patent hunting (hunting season), the so-called “hunting of the little man“, has been prohibited.

Contrary to the promises made to conservationists, the waterbird reserve Ermatinger Becken was created for the purpose of the annual hunt.

Since then, thousands of ornithologists (bird watchers) have visited the Ermatiger Basin every winter.

File:Rostgänse im Ermatinger Becken.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

The eye spies a number of buildings of particular significance in Ermatigen.

The origins of the Joint Church of Ermatigen (also known as the Joint Church of St. Albin), date back to the 12th century.

In the Swabian War of 1499, it was burned.

In the course of the Reformation, the paintings and altars were removed from the church.

After the Second Kappel Peace (1531), the equal relationship between Catholics and Protestants was restored.

Since then it has been shared by the Roman Catholic and Protestant faiths.

Above: St. Albin Church, Ermatingen

The Adler (Eagle) is one of the oldest inns in the canton of Thurgau.

It was first mentioned in 1270.

Today’s stately bar building dates back to the 16th century.

It has also served as an audience for the Federal Landvogt (offices).

Above: Hotel Adler, Ermatingen

Famous guests among others have been: 

  • Prince Louis Napoleon (Napoleon III)

Above: Franz Xavier Winterhalter portrait of Napoleon III

  • French writer, politician and diplomat Francois René de Chateaubriand
Above: Francois René de Chateaubriand (1768 – 1848)

  • French writer Alexandre Dumas (the Elder)  

Above: Alexandre Dumas the Elder (1802 – 1870)

  • German writer Thomas Mann  

Above: Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

  • German inventor Graf (Count) Zeppelin  

Above: Ferdinand von Zeppelin (1838 – 1917)

  • German writer / poet / painter Hermann Hesse

Above: Hermann Hesse (1877 – 1962)

  • German author / biographer / founder of the Dada art movement Hugo Ball  

Above: Hugo Ball (1886 – 1927)

  • German writer Leonhard Frank

Above: Leonhard Frank (1882 – 1961)

  • French writer René Schickele  

Above: René Schickele (1883 – 1940)

  • German writer Ferdinand Hardekopf  

Above: John Höxter portrait of Ferdinand Hardekopf (1876 – 1954)

  • German writer Alfred Neumann

Künste im Exil - Personen - Alfred Neumann
Above: Alfred Neumann (1895 – 1952)

  • General Guisan

Above: General Henri Guisan

Far above the village, Wolf Walter von Gryffenberg built a cube-shaped castle building in 1571. 

Johann Friedrich Geldrich von Sigmarshofen, who bought it in 1595, received the lower jurisdiction for his estate and Wolfsberg became a free seat.

In 1731, Johannes Zollikofer bought it and rebuilt it as the form that Wolfsberg still shows today.

In 1795, St. Gallen banker Jean Jacques Hoegger (1747-1812) acquired the castle and had the Parquin House built southwest of the castle in 1797.

After Hoegger’s death, his daughter Juliane Wilhelmine (1776-1829), sold the estate in 1815 to Baron Ignaz von Wechingen from Feldkirch. 

In 1824, the castle came into the possession of the French Colonel Charles Parquin, who had Wolfsburg Castle rebuilt and set up a guesthouse here in 1839.

Other owners were the Englishman Joseph Martin Parry, who converted the estate into a model agricultural farm, and Karl Bürgi, who built a spa house in 1865, which remained until 1918.

Under the crime writer Wolf Schwertenbach, Wolfsberg was the meeting place of SS Brigadeführer Walter Schellenberg (1910-1952) and Oberstbrigadier Roger Masson.  

Grabenkämpfe, Spione und geheime Treffen im Zweiten Weltkrieg – und welche  Rolle der Wolfsberg ob Ermatingen spielte
Above: Paul Eduard Meyer (aka Wolf Schwertenbach) (1894 – 1966)

Above: Walter Schellenberg (1910 – 1952), German secret police

Colonel brigadier Roger Masson (1894-1967) | Revue Militaire Suisse
Above: Roger Masson (1894 – 1967), Swiss intelligence officer

In 1970, the castle was acquired by the Swiss bank UBS, which renovated it and expanded it into a training centre on the site with further buildings. 

On the west wall of the library building is an iron clockwork from the old castle, which was made around 1540 by Laurentius Liechti.

Above: Schloss Wolfsberg

I cannot decide what frightens me more about Ermatigen: the Nazis or the bankers.

Flag of Nazi Germany
Above: Flag of Nazi Germany (1935 – 1945)

Villa Lilienberg was built around 1840 by the Prussian Baroness Caroline von Waldau.

In 1848 she sold it to Baroness Betty von Fingerlin.

Her husband, Count Johann Baptist Zappi, was a friend of Napoleon III. 

The stately villa in the style of late Classicism went in 1897 to the Winterthur company Gebrüder Volkart, and in 1935 to the Reinhart family. 

Kulturgelder aus Britisch-Indien | WOZ Die Wochenzeitung

Werner Reinhart renovated the Villa and hosted Wilhelm Furtwängler and Othmar Schoek among others.

Werner Reinhart — Google Arts & Culture
Above: Swiss industrialist and patron of the arts Werner Reinhart (1884 – 1950)

Above: German composer/conductor Wilhelm Furtwängler (1886 – 1954)

Today I sing of Othmar Schoeck – Musica Kaleidoskopea
Above: Swiss composer / conductor Othmar Schoek (1886 – 1957)

The art patron Oskar Reinhart (1885 – 1965) (of Winterthur museum fame) also lived here.

Oskar Reinhart: 9783725309849: Amazon.com: Books

The site was acquired in 1985 by the Lilienberg Entrepreneurs Forum Foundation, and is now a meeting place for entrepreneurs.

Above: Lillienberg

The Villa am See (Villa by the Lake), in the style of a Appenzeller house, was built in 1798 by the Appenzell builder Grubenmann on the site of the former public bath house, which was demolished in 1782.

The house became known as the “Toblerhaus” and was owned by the entrepreneur Louis Sauter (Villa Sauter) since 1918. 

The German textile entrepreneur Uwe Holy acquired the building in 2005, making extensive renovations.

Louis Sauter - Vinorama Museum Ermatingen
Above: Louis Sauter

Uwe Holy | BILANZ
Above: Uwe Holy

Villa - Vinorama Museum Ermatingen
Above: Villa am See / Vinorama Museum, Ermatingen

Relling’s Castle, estimated to date back to the 12th century, burned down during the Swabian War, was rebuilt in 1501 and served as the free seat of Jechonias Rellingen von Feder from 1579.

The eastern part of the house stands as a square tower on high wall bases, it was extended in 1686 by the stairwell.

The western part of the house was later added as a trotte (wine press). 

Even today, the oak posts stand in the former trotte, which survived the fire of 1499.

Thanks to the adjustments of the owners for their needs, this building has been preserved and maintained.

It is probably the oldest surviving building in Ermatingen.

Above: Rellingsches Schlössli, Ermatingen

Famous folks who have lived in Ermatingen include:

  • Marie Espérance von Schwartz (1818 – 1899), a German-English writer who had her last residence here

Above: Marie Espérance von Schwartz

  • Ferenc Fricsay (1914 – 1963), Austrian conductor who lived here and is buried in the cemetery in Ermatingen

Above: Ferenc Fricsay

  • Oskar Naegeli (1885 – 1959), Swiss dermatologist and chess master, born in Ermatigen

Abb. 9 Unbekannt, Prof. Dr. Oskar Nägeli (1885-1959), Dermatologe und... |  Download Scientific Diagram
Above: Professor Dr. Oskar Naegeli

A remarkable thing about Switzerland is that it attracts and carefully conceals the rich and famous who to wish to live their lives out of the spotlight.

Among these hiding in plain sight in Switzerland are:

  • Phil Collins (Féchy)

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Above: Phil Collins

  • Tina Turner (Küsnacht)

Tina Turner 50th Anniversary Tour.jpg
Above: Tina Turner

  • Shania Twain (Corseaux)

Shania Twain March 2020.png
Above: Shania Twain

  • ABBA’s Anni-Frid Synni Lyngstad (Zermatt)

Anni-Frid Lyngstad, May 2013.jpg
Above: Anni-Frid Lyngstad

That entertainers and sports people reside in Ermatigen is such a commonplace occurence in Switzerland as to be almost unremarkable.

Above: Hauptstrasse (Main Street), Ermatingen

Marie Espérance von Schwartz, née Brandt (born in Southgate, England, died in Ermatingen), also known as Marie Esperance Kalm de SchwartzMarie Speranza von Schwartz, and best known by her gritty name Elpis Melena was a writer of German origin and English nationality. 

Above: Marie Espérance von Schwartz

She was a friend of the Italian freedom fighter Giuseppe Garibaldi and the Hungarian composer Franz Liszt and became known mainly in the field of travel and memoir literature.

Born in England to a Hamburg banker, she was brought up mainly in Geneva.

After an early short marriage to a cousin, she settled in Rome.

With her second husband, the Hamburg banker Ferdinand von Schwartz (1813 – 1883), whom she had met in Italy, she made adventurous journeys through Greece, Turkey, Asia Minor, Egypt and North Africa, but this marriage ended in divorce in 1854.

In Rome, the wealthy and educated, especially linguistically talented (a cunning linguist?), (She is said to have mastered eight languages.) Marie led a literary salon where numerous artists and aristocrats frequented. 

She maintained a lively exchange of letters with Franz Liszt for many years.

In addition, she continued to indulge in her desire to travel.

Above: Franz Liszt (1811 – 1886)

Since 1849, Marie Esperance von Schwartz had been interested in Garibaldi.

In the autumn of 1857, she entered into personal relations with Garibaldi on the island of Caprera (off the coast of Sardinia).

File:Caprera casa di Giuseppe Garibaldi.jpg - Wikipedia

Above: Giuseppe Garibaldi House, Caprera

melena elpis - Used - AbeBooks

She lived with him, cared for his children, supported his cause financially and through her writings, and cared for him during his captivity and after his wounding.

She was generally regarded as his mistress.

Garibaldi is said to have asked several times for her hand in marriage.

Out of gratitude for her sacrificial friendship, Garibaldi gave her the manuscript of his memoirs, which she quickly translated into German and was able to publish in 1861 before her competitor Alexandre Dumas the Elder.

Above: Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807 – 1882)

At the end of 1865, Marie moved her residence to Crete, where, undeterred by the fighting raging on the Island during the Cretan uprising (21 August 1866 – 20 January 1869), she had a charming villa built in the vineyards in Chalepa near Chania. 

(Crete was part of the Ottoman Empire from 1646 to 1898.)

Above: Marie astride her horse Huney in Crete

Her sympathy, unsurprisingly, belonged to the insurgents.

At her request, Garibaldi sent a contingent of 500 men to Crete to support the uprising.

Arkadi Cretan flag.png
Above: Flag of the Cretan rebellion

She devoted a lot of time and money to charitable institutions, founded hospitals, asylums, schools, translated German textbooks into modern Greek and Cretan folk songs, legends and folklore into German. 

She gained a great deal of respect from both Christian and Muslim Cretans.

Above: Ethnic map of Crete, 1861 – (blue) Christians / (red) Muslims

She developed a lively commitment in the field of animal welfare, her influence extending throughout Europe.

In Chania she founded an animal hospital for horses and donkeys.

Countless street dogs were fed daily.

Above: Chania, Crete, Greece

In numerous brochures in many languages, she campaigned for animal welfare and campaigned against animal testing.

After 20 years in Crete, she settled in Ermatingen, where she died at the age of 80.

Tierschutz auf Kreta - Marie Espérance von Schwartz. | Radio Kreta

Ferenc Karl Fricsay (born in Budapest, died in Basel and buried in Ermatigen) was a conductor, who worked mainly in Hungary, Austria and Germany.

Ferenc Fricsay - Télécharger et écouter les albums.
Above: Ferenc Fricsay

He came from a musical family and was the son of the Hungarian military chapel master Richard Fricsay and Berta Lengyel.

His father gave him his first music lessons.

Fricsay joined the Budapest Academy of Music at the age of 6, the famous Franz Liszt Academy of Music, where at the time, among others, Béla Bartik (pianist), Zoltan Kodély (composer) and Ernst von Dohnsnyi (pianist) taught.

Above: Béla Bartók (1881 – 1945)

Above: Zoltán Kodály (1882 – 1967)

Above: Ernó Dohnányi (1877 – 1960)

He learned almost all the orchestral instruments and also studied composition.

At the age of 15, he jumped in for his father and made his conductor’s debut.

Above: Franz Liszt Academy of Music, Budapest, Hungary

In 1933, after a successful final examination at the Academy, he refused a job at the Budapest Opera (now the Hungarian State Opera House) and received his first permanent position as Kapellmeister of the military chapel in the university and garrison town of Szeged.

Hungarian State Opera House(PDXdj).jpg
Above: Hungarian State Opera House, Budapest

In 1934, he also became conductor of the local municipal Philharmonic Orchestra.

He married for the first time this year.

They had three children.

Above: Aerial view of Szegedin, Hungary

In 1939, he made his first guest appearance at the Budapest Opera.

The following year he conducted for the first time in the Szegedin Opera (“Rigoletto” by Verdi).

In 1942, a military court case was opened against Fricsay for wanting to engage Jewish artists.

In mid-March 1944, German troops occupied Hungary in Operation Margarethe.

In the summer of this year, he warned friends and acquaintances of impending arrests by the Gestapo and thus put he himself in danger of being arrested.

Because of this and also because of his Jewish origin (his mother was Jewish, he himself was Roman Catholic) he had to flee Szeged with his wife and three children and go into hiding in Budapest.

Above: German Bf 110s flying over Budapest, January 1944.

In January 1945 he was offered the post of First Kapellmeister at the Budapest State Opera.

He also shared the chief conducting of the Budapest Capital Orchestra, (today’s Hungarian National Philharmonic Orchestra) and conducted a concert with this orchestra at the end of January 1945.

He left military service as a captain.

The State Opera was reopened in March 1945, the same month Fricsay’s father died.

In April 1945, Fricsay conducted a performance of Verdi’s La traviata.

At the end of 1946 he accepted an invitation to the Vienna State Opera and then the offer to take over the assistance of Otto Klemperer at the Salzburg Festival. 

Fricsay gave a concert in the summer of 1947 with the Budapest Capital Orchestra in Vienna.

Above: Otto Klemperer (1885 – 1973)

In August 1947, his international breakthrough came when he took over the world premiere of Danton’s Death of Gottfried von Einem at the Salzburg Festival for Otto Klemperer, who had a brain tumour.

Szenenbild der Hamburger Produktion, 1948
Above: Danton’s Death, Hamburg production, 1948

The invitation was also made at the suggestion of Herbert von Karajan, who assured the composer of the talent of the young Hungarian, having attended the aforementioned Vienna concert of 1947.

Invitations from everywhere followed, including those for the Salzburg Festival in 1948 and 1949.

Above: Herbert von Karajan (1908 – 1989)

From 1947 he was guest conductor at the Staatsoper in Vienna, where he conducted repertory operas.

After his experiences there, Fricsay made it a principle to conduct only productions that he had rehearsed himself.

Architektur STOP Front 20150922 C MichaelPoehn.jpg
Above: Vienna State Opera

In the following years Fricsay placed particular emphasis on the ensemble idea, (i.e. the development of a work and its performance with a solid core of like-minded performers).

Ferenc Fricsay – Primephonic
Above: Ferenc Fricsay

(Think of a classical music version of the Traveling Wilburys.)

The Traveling Wilburys in May 1988 (top: Jeff Lynne, Tom Petty; bottom: Roy Orbison, Bob Dylan, George Harrison)
Above: The Traveling Wilburys in May 1988 (top: Jeff Lynne, Tom Petty; bottom: Roy Orbison, Bob Dylan, George Harrison)

These ensembles included Dietrich Fischer-Dieskau, Riza Streich, Maria Stader, Ernst Haefliger, Josef Greindl, and, until his accidental death in 1954, Peter Anders.

Above: Dietrich Fischer-Dieskau (1925 – 2012)

Above: Rita Streich as Olympia in the Opera Hoffmanns Erzählungen (Hoffmann’s Tales) (1946)

Above: Maria Stader (1911 – 1999)

Ernst Haefliger – Ernst Haefliger Singt Opernarien (1962, Vinyl) - Discogs
Above: Ernst Haefliger (1919 – 2007)

Josef Greindl | Discography | Discogs
Above: Josef Greindl (1912 – 1993)

Above: Peter Anders (1908 – 1954)

(Think of these performers as superstars of their time in classical music.)

Preferred instrumental soloists of Fricsay were Yehudi Menuhin, Géza Anda, Clara Haskil and Anne Fischer.

Above: Yehudi Menuhin (1916 – 1999)

Above: Géza Anda (1921 – 1976)

Above: Clara Haskil (1895 – 1960)

Above: Annie Fischer (1914 – 1995)

(All names that this country boy from St. Philippe d’Argenteuil has nary a notion about.)

He worked with these artists again and again until the end of his career as a conductor.

In 1948 he conducted the scenic premiere of Frank Martin’s Le vin herbé (Der Zaubertrank / The Magic Potion) at the Salzburg Festival and the performance of Carl Orff’s Antigonae in 1949.

Above: Frank Martin (1890 – 1974)

Above: Carl Orff

(Clearly, there is more in Heaven and on Earth than previously dreamed in my philosophy.)

There are more things in Heaven and Earth, Horatio, than are dreamt of in  your philosophy.” ― Will… | Hamlet quotes, William shakespeare quotes,  Shakespeare quotes

He received great international acclaim for both performances.

Already by 1948 he was invited to an opera and concert guest performance in Berlin.

Aussicht von der Siegessäule auf die Straße des 17. Juni Richtung Berliner Mitte (Oktober 2013)
Above: Berlin

He made his debut in November 1948 at the Städtische Oper Berlin (now the Deutsche Oper Berlin) with Verdi’s “Don Carlos“, in the same month with the Rundfunk Sinfonieorchester Berlin and in December 1948 with the Berliner Philharmoniker and the RIAS Symphony Orchestra (since 1993 Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin).

Deutsche Oper Berlin. Ansicht von Südosten.jpg
Above: German Opera Berlin

Above: Rundfunk Sinfonieorchester Berlin

After these successes, Fricsay was appointed General Music Director of the Städtische Oper Berlin and chief conductor of the RIAS Symphony Orchestra.

Fricsay re-formed the orchestra and within a few years led it to international prestige.

By 1949, he brought almost 30 of the best musicians of the famous Staatsoper Unter den Linden to the RIAS Symphony Orchestra, which became famous in the following years for its brass section.

From then on, Fricsay played a central role in the reconstruction of musical life in post-war Germany, especially in Berlin.

Above: Staatsoper Unten den Linden, Berlin

At the end of December 1948 he signed an exclusive contract with the Deutsch Grammophon Gesellsschaft, for which he recorded his first long-playing record in September 1949 (5th Symphony by Tchaikovskywith the Berliner Philharmoniker).

This also heralded the beginning of a productive phase of recording.

Ferenc Fricsay - Ferenc Fricsay: Complete Recordings on Deutsche  Grammophon, Vol.1 - Orchestral Works - Amazon.com Music

In 1948, in place of the ill Otto Klemperer, he conducted the world premiere of Gottfried von Einem’s opera “Dantons Tod” at the Salzburg Festival in place of the ill Otto Klemperer. 

Above: Gottfried von Einem (1918 – 1996)

In 1950 he conducted “Le nozze di Figaro” (Mozart) at the Edinburgh Festival and made his debut in Buenos Aires with the “Carmina Burana” (Orff).

He married his second wife Silvia, née Valeanu, (1913 – 2003), the divorced sister-in-law of the skier Horst Scheeser, who brought a son into the marriage.

In April 1951, he conducted the Italian premiere of “Duke Blaubart’s Castle” at the Teatro San Carlo in Naples. 

Above: Teatro San Carlo, Napoli, Italy

In November 1951 he gave his first concert with the Bavarian Radio Symphony Orchestra (Munich / München) and in the spring of 1952 with the Concertgebouw Orchestra in Amsterdam.

Above: The Bavarian Radio Symphony Orchestra

Logo des Concertgebouw-Orchesters

In May 1952, probably because of the strain of the double obligation, he asked for the resolution of his contract with the Städtische Oper Berlin.

This year he took over his concerts at the Salzburg Festival for the ill Wilhelm Furtwängler.

Above: Wilhelm Furtwängler (1886 – 1954)

He was the director of the RIAS Symphony Orchestra until 1954.

In the following years, however, he remained closely connected to the Orchestra through numerous guest performance, touring and record commitments.

Above: Logo of the RIAS (Radiofunk im Amerikan Sektor)

In 1952 Fricsay and his family moved into Westerfeld Haus in Ermatigen as a permanent residence.

Above: Houses on the Oberen Seestrasse (Upper Lake Street), Ermatingen

Since that time he was a permanent guest at the Lucerne Music Festival Weeks.

Where there he took over the concerts of the ill Wilhelm Fürtwangler.

Above: Luzerner Kultur- und Kongresszentrum (KKL) (Lucerne Cultural and Convention Centre), Vierwaldstättersee (Lake of Lucerne), Luzern (Lucerne), Schweiz (Switzerland) – site of the Lucerne Music Festival

And also that same year he gave a guest concert with the Cologne (Köln) Radio Symphony Orchestra (now the WDR Sinfonie Orchester) and performed at the Salzburg Festival with the Vienna Philharmonic (Wiener Philharmoniker).

Above: Logo of the West Deutscher Rundfunk Sinfonie Orchester

Logo

In 1953 he began an extensive travel conductorship (in Paris, at the Scala in Milan, in Lucerne), which also took him to the US (Boston, Houston and San Francisco) in November of that year.

Due to the very successful concert in Houston, he was hired there for the next season (1954/55) as music director and principal conductor.

In June 1954 he made his Israel debut with the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra.

The work he performed there with great success was Verdi’s Requiem.

Requiem (Verdi) Titelblatt (1874).jpg

At the end of October 1954, Fricsay came to Houston to take over the Houston Symphony Orchestra, which ultimately failed.

The Orchestra did not keep to its promises, so he terminated the contract in January 1955.

Above: Houston Symphony Orchestra

After a second concert tour through Israel, Fricsay became General Music Director of the Bavarian State Opera (Munich) from 1956 to 1958.

However, resounding success did not come about, mainly due to the fact that he did not grant a more prominent position to the music of Richard Strauss and Richard Wagner, as is customary there.

Above: Richard Strauss (1864 – 1949)

Above: Richard Wagner (1813 – 1883)

In addition, Fricsay insisted on having an important say in production issues.

Instead of focusing on Wagner or Strauss, he pursued his main goal of rebuilding the Italian repertoire and setting new performances of “Otello” (Verdi), “Chowanschtschina” (Mussorgski), “Lucia di Lammermoor” (Donizetti), “Wozzeck” (Berg), “Le Roi David” (Honegger), “Un ballo in maschera” (Verdi), and “Oedipus Rex” (Stravinsky).

Above: Guiseppe Verdi (1813 – 1901)

Above: Modest Musorgskiy (1839 – 1881)

Above: Gaetano Donizetti (1797 – 1848)

Above: Alban Berg (1885 – 1935)

Above: Arthur Honegger (1892 – 1955)

Above: Igor Stravinsky (1882 – 1971)

In 1957 he recorded “Fidelio” (Beethoven) for the Deutsche Grammophon Gesellschaft in Munich, the first stereo recording of the German record industry.

In 1958 he conducted a charity concert for the reconstruction of the National Theatre in Munich.

Above: National Theatre, Munich

On this occasion, the first Eurovision live broadcast of a public concert from Germany took place.

In the same year he conducted the performance of “Le Nozze di Figaro” (Mozart) in June for the reopening of the Munich Cuvilliés (today: Altes Residenztheater).

He then converted his General Music Director’s contract into a guest performance contract.

Above: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756 – 1791)

Außenansicht des Theaters
Above: Residenztheater, Munich

In 1958, Fricsay began a series of recordings of all Beethoven’s symphonies, which remained unfinished due to his early death.

Above: Ludwig van Beethoven (1770 – 1829)

At the end of November 1958 Fricsay was diagnosed with a stomach ulcer, for which he underwent surgery in Zürich the same month, followed by a second operation in January.

The result was a recovery period of several months until September 1959.

Altstadt Zürich
Above: Zürich, Switzerland

From 1959 until his death, Fricsay was chief conductor of the RIAS Symphony Orchestra (now called the Deutsches Symphonie Orchester Berlin). 

Fricsay conducted the Orchestra in September 1959 in the first concert after his illness break and then in the reopening concert for the Great Broadcasting Hall of the broadcaster Sender Freies Berlin (SFB), the post-war start of German radio into stereophony.

Senderfreiesberlin-logo.svg

In 1960, Fricsay was granted Austrian citizenship after the failed Hungarian uprising of October 1956 permanently denied him access to his homeland.

Hole in flag - Budapest 1956.jpg
Above: Symbol of the revolution: Hungarian flag with the 1949–1956 Communist emblem cut out

In April he was again engaged as General Music Director in Berlin for the 1961/1962 season.

In the spring of 1961, the Radio Symphony Orchestra Berlin under Fricsay’s direction, together with Yehudi Menuhin as soloist, undertook a European tour through Germany, to Copenhagen, London and Paris. 

At the Salzburg Festival in 1961, Fricsay conducted Mozart’s “Idomeneo” three times at the Großer Festspielhaus Great Festival Hall) in Salzburg, which was intended as the beginning of a new Mozart cycle under his musical direction.

Above: Great Festival Hall, Salzburg, Austria

A few days after the construction of the Berlin Wall, he opened the newly built Deutsche Oper Berlin in Bismarckstraße on 24 September 1961 with a re-enduation of the “Don Giovanni” (Mozart).

This was also the first time that an opera has been broadcast live on television.

In October 1961, Fricsay was awarded the Grand Cross of Merit of the Federal Republic of Germany (West Germany) and made his last record recording with the Radio Symphony Orchestra in Berlin.

Berliner Mauer
Above: The Berlin Wall (1961 – 1989)

In November 1961 Fricsay gave his last concert with this orchestra in Bonn.

That month, his last concert recording was recorded.

Above: Beethoven Hall, site of the Bonn Orchestra

After several guest performances in London, Fricsay fell seriously ill again in December 1961, which led to further surgeries.

On 7 December 1961, Fricsay gave his last concert ever.

He cancelled all other commitments.

In the summer of 1962, the disease also seemed to have been overcome, but this turned out to be wrong.

This year he published a book he wrote, “About Mozart and Bartik“, in which he set out his basic views on classical music in general and on the music of the composers named in the title in particular.

Ferenc Fricsay, Dukas • Kodály • Shostakovich • Hindemith • J. Strauss •  Beethoven • Mozart – Great Conductors Of The 20th Century (2002, CD) -  Discogs

Fricsay died in Basel in February 1963 at the age of only 48 from the consequences of a gall bladder perforation, which was not detected in time.

He is buried in the cemetery in Ermatigen.

Das Vogelnestli des Stardirigenten

Fricsay was a rehearsal conductor and orchestral educator who tried extensively and often rigorously, which sometimes did not make the orchestral musicians’ dealings with him easy.

However, he produced positive results in technical play and led to undoubtedly outstanding artistic achievements.

He also benefited from the fact that he had mastered all orchestral instruments (except the harp), a knowledge he brought to the fore as part of his always intensive rehearsal work.

The television recording of the rehearsal for “Moldova” illustrates another special feature of Fricsay’s rehearsal work, namely that he described the musical events to the orchestra in a vivid, lively and pictorial manner, and, if necessary, also sang in passages to illustrate his musical ideas and to achieve the tonal result he wanted.

This underlines that his rehearsals were always based on a comprehensive concept of the respective work and he knew exactly what he wanted.

Ferenc Fricsay - A Life in Music - DG: 4743832 - download | Presto Classical

Fricsay preferred a clear, transparent orchestral sound that was taut, elastic and precise.

At the same time, he had an excellent sense of rhythm. 

Especially his recordings from a young age testify to great strength, energy and vitality.

However, this was also a subject of criticism, as some of his early performances were acknowledged to be too emotionally cold with a certain rigidity.

Too much external brilliance and mere effect were complained about, as well as too little relaxation and detachment. This was an accusation that was not made in later years.

Since the beginning of 1959, Fricsay has been increasingly plagued by severe illness, which was often associated with simply another new conducting gesture of Fricsay’s.

Thus his recordings from this time seem more “spiritual“, at least they are almost always slower than those from the time before the outbreak of the disease.

Although this is often seen as a direct consequence of the disease, this is probably also a process of maturity of the artist and the person Fricsay as a whole, which only now had a full effect.

Ferenc Karl Fricsay - Vinorama Museum Ermatingen
Above: Ferenc Fricsay

His repertoire was extensive, from Georg Friedrich Handel to Bernd Alois Zimmerman.

Above: Georg Friedrich Handel (1685 – 1759)

Work of the Week – Bernd Alois Zimmermann: Ich wandte mich und sah an alles  Unrecht, das geschah unter der Sonne (Ecclesiastical Action) - Schott Music  (EN)
Above: Bernd Alois Zimmermann (1918 – 1970)

Mozart’s work was particularly focused.

From the very beginning, he also put the music of Joseph Haydn and music of the 20th century, which had been rather neglected in the concert hall, on the program.

Above: Joseph Haydn (1732 – 1809)

Despite his early death, he managed to record interpretations of more than 200 classical works for posterity and bring the RIAS Symphony Orchestra to a standard comparable to that of the Berliner Philharmoniker.

From the abundance of his recordings, in addition to his Bartik, Kodoly and Mozart recordings, the Tchaikovsky symphonies and those of the Strauss waltzes are particularly highlighted.

His recordings of the three piano concertos by Béla Bartik with Géza Anda as soloist became well-known.

Fricsay is regarded as the “first media artist of European standing” (Ulrich Schreiber) and decisively promoted both broadcasting and record recording technology.

Unlike many other conductors, he was very interested in recording technology.

Fricsay carried out an uncompromising quality control of his recordings and released them only when the tonal reproduction fully corresponded to his ideas.

Otherwise, he insisted on re-recordings.

He advocated stereophony early on, both on records and on the radio.

Fricsay became known to a wider public mainly through a television documentary, which shows him in 1960 during the rehearsal of “Moldova” by Smetana with the Südfunk Symphony Orchestra.

This was also the first attempt on European television to bring classical music to a wide audience through a workshop experience.

Ferenc Fricsay | Hall of fame | Zeneakadémia

Above: Ferenc Fricsay

Fricsay’s work, however, did not have adequate repercussions.

In addition to the circumstance of his early death, this is probably mainly due to the fact that Deutsche Grammophon immediately elevated another conductor as the figurehead in the succession to Fricsay after his death, who was a “media professional” and knew best about the art of self-staging: Herbert von Karajan.

Fricsay’s person and his merits were eclipsed, his legacy forgotten, his grave unvisited.

In November 1974, the Ferenc Fricsay Society was founded and constituted on the occasion of the Berlin Festival in 1975.

It is dedicated to preserving the conductor’s memory and promotes the publication of his recordings.

L'art de Ferenc Fricsay. - La Boîte à Musique

Sadly, a man these days is judged only by his publicity.

The dead are dreadful at self-marketing.

And those who do not engage in self-marketing might as well be dead.

There is only one thing in the world worse than being talked about, and  that is

In the field of dermatology, the Naegeli syndrome is named after Oskar Naegeli.

Abb. 9 Unbekannt, Prof. Dr. Oskar Nägeli (1885-1959), Dermatologe und... |  Download Scientific Diagram
Above: Prof. Dr. Oskar Nägeli (1885 – 1959)

Naegeli syndrome is a rare and curious condition characterized by reticular skin pigmentation, diminished function of the sweat glands, a lack of teeth and the absence of fingerprint lines on the fingers.

A crime story just waiting in the wings to be written.

Above: Symptom of the Naegeli – Franceschetti – Jadassohn Syndrome

As we tramp the hills above Ermatigen and descend down to Triboltingen, Ute has slowed her pace impatiently waiting for me to accompany her.

Ever aware that a mere fortnight will soon separate us, the never-ending jukebox that resides within my mind finds itself playing lyrics from Kenny Rogers’ “Lucille” and Leonard Cohen’s “Famous Blue Raincoat“.

In a bar in Toledo, across from the depot,
On a barstool, she took off her ring.
I thought I’d get closer, so I walked on over.
I sat down and asked her name.
When the drinks finally hit her she said: “I’m no quitter
But I finally quit livin’ on dreams.
I’m hungry for laughter and here ever after
I’m after whatever the other life brings
.”


In the mirror, I saw him, and I closely watched him.
I thought how he looked out of place.
He came to the woman who sat there beside me.
He had a strange look on his face.
The big hands were calloused. He looked like a mountain.
For a minute I thought I was dead.
But he started shaking, his big heart was breaking.
He turned to the woman and said:

You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille.
With four hungry children and a crop in the field.
I’ve had some bad times, lived through some sad times,
But this time your hurting won’t heal.
You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille
.”

After he left us, I ordered more whiskey
I thought how she’d made him look small
From the lights of the barroom
To a rented hotel room
We walked without talking at all.


She was a beauty, but when she came to me,
She must have thought I’d lost my mind.
I couldn’t hold her. ’cause the words that he told her
Kept coming back time after time.

You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille.
With four hungry children and a crop in the field.
I’ve had some bad times, lived through some sad times,
But this time your hurting won’t heal.
You picked a fine time to leave me, Lucille.

Kenny Rogers - Lucille single.jpg

It’s four in the morning, the end of December,
I’m writing you now just to see if you’re better.
New York is cold, but I like where I’m living.
There’s music on Clinton Street all through the evening.

I hear that you’re building your little house deep in the desert
You’re living for nothing now, I hope you’re keeping some kind of record.

And Jane came by with a lock of your hair
She said that you gave it to her
That night that you planned to go clear
Did you ever go clear?

Ah, the last time we saw you you looked so much older
Your famous blue raincoat was torn at the shoulder
You’d been to the station to meet every train, and
You came home without Lili Marlene

And you treated my woman to a flake of your life
And when she came back she was nobody’s wife

Well, I see you there with the rose in your teeth
One more thin gypsy thief


Well, I see Jane’s awake
She sends her regards

And what can I tell you, my brother, my killer
What can I possibly say?
I guess that I miss you, I guess I forgive you,
I’m glad you stood in my way

If you ever come by here, for Jane or for me
Well, your enemy is sleeping, and his woman is free

And thanks for the trouble you took from her eyes
I thought it was there for good, so I never tried

And Jane came by with a lock of your hair
She said that you gave it to her
That night that you planned to go clear

Sincerely, L Cohen

Songs of love and hate.jpg

The wife always says she likes my voice and likes to listen to me sing.

But I don’t feel much like singing this day, despite the music in my mind.

These are tunes that do not soothe the mood, though they reflect my inner turmoil.

Our path, printed out from the walkers’ website, leads us through the streets of the village of Triboltingen, a place wherein I once taught a schoolteacher the English she needed to pass a Cambridge course required by her school board.

It was not then and nor was it now a welcoming warren.

I taught her in the heart of a cold winter and I have returned to this town in the chill of a heartless pandemic.

Though cars speed by upon the main street that is merely a midpoint of Highway 13, the village feels nonetheless empty and devoid of cheer or life.

I point out to my wife where the schoolteacher lived and the path I took from the whistlestop of Triboltingen to reach her house.

It is an unremarkable account listened to with unremarkable inattentiveness.

Above: Hauptstrasse (Main Street), Triboltingen

The Strassendorf (“road village“) is located at the foot of the Lake Ridge (the Seerücken hills) and at the Untersee between Tägerwilen and Ermatingen.

Above: Hauptstrasse (Main Street), Triboltingen

(A Strassendorf is a village form of settlement and a special kind of terraced village.

There are both regulated (planned by systematic colonization as in the province of Québec) and unregulated (naturally formed).

Road villages are widespread in Europe, especially in Central Europe.

The courtyards are usually laid out at regular intervals, usually with residential buildings and ancillary facilities, such as stables, barns, walls, fences, gardens, lying on the traffic route. 

Like a terraced village, the street village is characterized by the fact that, if the local conditions and terrain make it possible to settle even further at the beginning and at the end of the street village, then further farmland or residential plots can be created.

In more recent times, other roads, often running in parallel, are also being built if necessary.)

Above: An example of a Strassendorf – Champlain, Québec, Canada

Triboltingen is served by Highway 13, the main road between Schaffhausen and Kreuzlingen, and it has been, since 1998, a stop on the parallel sea line of the aforementioned Untersee & Rhein cruise ship route.

Above: Hauptstrasse (Main Street), Triboltingen

A discovered incendiary moat from the 1st century indicates an early Roman settlement.

The village itself was founded by the Alemanns. 

Together with Salenstein, Fruthwilen, Mannenbach and Ermatingen, Triboltingen formed a market cooperative selling the yield of surrounding forest and pastures.

Around 950, Duke Hermann of Swabia donated the village to the Monastery of Reichenau.

According to one chronicle, the Triboltinger fled in the famine of 1146 with his belongings to the nearby Monastery of Petershausen in Konstanz.

The village was first mentioned in the Middle Ages.

Above: Triboltingen and Reichenau Island

(It may have been a Tuesday, but I am unsure of the particulars.) 

Tuesday Afternoon.jpg

The Monastery of Reichenau was the village’s most important landlord and courtmaster.

From 1540 to 1798, the village was under the jurisdiction of the Prince Bishop of Konstanz. 

Wappen Bistum Konstanz.png
Above: Coat of arms of the Prince Bishop of Konstanz

Above: Konstanz Cathedral

East of Triboltingen, a bloody battle of the Swabian War took place on 11 April 1499 in the nearby hamlet of Schwaderloh.

Die Schlacht im Schwaderloh aus der Chronik des Johannes Stumpf
Above: The Battle of Schwaderloh from the Chronicle of Johannes Stumpf

(In the early hours of Tuesday 11 April 1499, between 6,000 and 7,000 Swabian landsmen marched out of Konstanz to attack the Swiss federal division positioned near Ermatingen.

However, a simultaneous attack with boats from the Island of Reichenau did not bring the desired surprise effect, so that the attacked could prepare themselves in time.

The Swiss Confederates threw themselves at the attackers, as they suspected only a minor attack, but had to retreat to the nearby forests because of the attackers’ greater supremacy.

The Swiss lost around 80 men and had to leave behind the two Luzern guns which were taken to Reichenau from Ermatingen.

Swabian troops occupied the villages of Ermatingen, Triboltingen and Mannenbach and began to plunder.

Apparently, the daily goal for the commanders had already been reached.

In the meantime, the federal contingent of Ermatingen merged with the forces that had joined forces at Schwaderloh.

It was decided, despite the inferiority of numbers, to attack the Swabian troops before they could bring their prizes to safety in Constance.

Together with another Thurgau contingent of about 400 men, who arrived from Scherzingen (part of the Municipality of Münsterlingen of which Landschlacht is a part), around 1,800 Swiss Confederates marched directly through the forest between Schwaderloh and Triboltingen into the plain at the Untersee.

When the Swabian troops made their way back from Konstanz, a lot of wine had already been drunk, the Confederates attack came as a surprise.

Above: On the left, the onslaught of the Confederates, in the middle, the battle, on the right, the flight of the slain. Chronicle of Diebold Schilling (1513)

Niklaus Schradin reports in his chronicle of the Swabian War (1500) that the Confederates advanced with great noise, whistles and drums from the forest down the slope to Triboltingen.

The Swabian troops were able to form a battle just in time under the protection of the cavalry around a few pieces of artillery.

According to contemporary information, the Swabian artillery fired at the advancing Confederates, but aimed too high.

The resulting cover of smoke then allowed the Confederates to approach the fog-lost Swabian battle formation unseen and to overrun it by force.

When the Swabian battle order disintegrated and the foot soldiers began to flee, the federal formation split up.

The Swiss fought the Swabian knights on horseback, while spearmen and swordsmen chased the fugitive footmen.

The bloody pursuit reached the walls of Gottlieben, the Tägermoos (a German district administered by the Swiss town of Tägerwilen), and the very walls of Konstanz itself. 

Many Swabians were forced into Lake Constance and had to leave all their armor and equipment on the shore to swim to safety or be rescued by boats in a pre-Dunkirk scenario.

Most of the 2,000 men that the Swabian side had to mourn as a loss drowned in the swamps of the Tägermoos or in the Lake of Constance.

Added to this was the cruel warfare of the Confederates.

According to the decision of the Daily Statute (the orders) of 11 March, no prisoners were allowed to be made in this war, a condition to which the troops had to swear to obey.

So, anyone who was left injured was put down.

The 130 dead from Konstanz were recovered after the Battle, the remaining 1,000 dead remained on the battlefield deprived of their equipment and clothes.

The spoils of the Confederates were considerable:

The entire artillery of the Swabian federal troops, numerous field weapons, and the loot of the raids in and around Ermatingen fell into their hands.

The federal victory caused a considerable weakening of the troops of the Swabian League in Konstanz and until July 1499 stopped any efforts to make any serious success in Thurgau.)

Above: After the battle, women and clergy gather the bodies of the citizens of Konstanz on the battlefield in front of the city – Diebold Schilling

Though the majority of the town is comprised of followers of the Swiss Reformed Church, Triboltingen itself has always belonged to the parish of Ermatingen.

In the 18th century Triboltingen owned a town hall, the “Zwingwald” and vineyards, among other municipal estates.

In the 19th century, vine growing was the basis of the village’s prosperity.

Around 1900, embroidery was also practised.

After 1950, the decommissioning of farms began.

Converted into residential buildings, they shape the townscape with the resulting single-family houses found here since the beginning of the 21st century.

The numerous half-timbered buildings date from the 17th century.

The village of Triboltingen is listed in the Inventory of the Places Worth Protecting in Switzerland.

Wappen von Triboltingen
Above: Coat of arms of Triboltingen

Triboltingen’s Joint Chapel of St. Nicholas and the residence Zur Post/Haus Schwarz (of the Post / Black House) are listed in the List of Cultural Objects of Ermatigen.

The Chapel of St. Nikolas was probably built in the 13th century.

From this time, the high-altitude arched windows are still preserved.

The choir was constructed around 1500.

One outstanding feature of the Chapel is the roof rider built in 1602 with an expansive pointed helmet.

Inside, remnants of medieval murals can be seen in three layers.

On the north wall of the nave are rubella drawings and pilgrim inscriptions from the late 15th century.

After the Reformation, the chapel was no longer used for services.

In the Second World War it was used as a powder magazine.

It was renovated in 1957.

Today, the Chapel hosts occasional divine services and is also used for small concerts.

Above: Church of St. Niklaus, Triboltingen

Curiously, Triboltigen does not boast about personalities it has harboured, for what secrets it conceals are covered by the shadows of Ermatingen.

Above: Zum Weinberg Inn, Triboltingen

The trail leads us across the railroad tracks close to the Triboltingen whistlestop and finds us crossing fields and moor around and away from the town of Tägerwilen.

Shelter on concrete platform

In Tägerwilen there were traces of a Neolithic settlement from around 4000 BC.

In the 7th century, the Alemanns settled in Tägerwilen on the village streams, near the Roman road Konstanz – Winterthur.

The first documentary mention dates back to 990 as Tegirwilare.

The history of Tägerwilen is strongly connected with that of neighbouring Konstanz.

Officials of the Bishop of Konstanz also founded Tägerwilen Castle and the Castle Castell, which was later built next to it.

In the early Middle Ages, Tägerwilen belonged to the Konstanz Bischofshöri (bishop’s horn) – (The Bischofshöri was an area between Konstanz and Berg as well as Münsterlingen and Gottlieben in Canton Thurgau, in which the peasants belonging to the Bishopric of Konstanz had to pay the Bishop and his clerics levies.) –  from about 1300.

During the Swabian War in 1499 and after the Battle of Schwaderloh, the village of Tägerwilen was burned down and Castell Castle destroyed.

Above: Schloss Castell (Castell Castle), Tägerwilen

In addition to agriculture and cattle breeding, vine and fruit growing were also practised, and the large civic forest was important.

In Tägerwilen there were nine mills, a poorhouse and a school.

After the opening of the Etzwilen – Konstanz railway line in 1875 and the Konstanz – Wil line in 1911, the village expanded towards the stations.

Towards the end of the 19th century, numerous commercial enterprises were established, including an automobile manufacturer.

In 2005, industry and commerce provided a quarter of the jobs in the municipality, while agriculture still represented 10%. 

Above: Tägerwilen Dorf Station

Tägerwilen, nay, the entire district of Kreuzlingen, has never been a place I could embrace.

It is a charmless place of charmless people, at least for those who only visit and never linger.

This is not a place that draws the traveller in.

It does not whisper to the heart:

Wander, explore, seek.

Instead it is a place where the locals look at the visitor with skepticism and disdain asking you the question that you yourself have already asked:

Why are you here?

Wappen von Tägerwilen (mit Tägermoos)

Above: Coat of arms of Tägerwilen

And yet the place has produced its own personalities:

  • Elise Egloff (1821-1848), literary model for writers Berthold Auerbach, Charlotte Birch-Pfeiffer, Gottfried Keller and George Bernard Shaw – Think of her as Eliza Doolittle of My Fair Lady.
  • Hermann Müller – Thurgau (1850-1927), a botanist who loved Canton Thurgau so much he adopted its name as his own

Above: Tägerwilen and Konstanz

Elise Egloff was born in Tägerwilen as an illegitimate daughter and grew up in the house of her grandfather, the butcher and community landlord Hans Jakob Egloff.

After his death in 1836 she did an apprenticeship as a seamstress and in 1841 came to Zürich as a child and sewing girl in the household of the German professor of chemistry Carl Löwig, to where the German anatomist Jacob Henle also travelled.

Above: Carl Jacob Loewig (1803 – 1890)

From their initially random encounters developed a deep love affair, about which Jacob Henle wrote:

…..and so the most ridiculous thing that can happen to a cavalier of the world in such a relationship happened to me: I was not only interested in her body, but also in the soul of the girl.” 

Above: Elise Egloff

When Henle received the call for a professorship in Heidelberg in the autumn of 1843, he wanted to finance Elise Egloff a small shop in Küsnacht (Canton Zürich). 

Above: Küsnacht, Canton Zürich

Her resulting desperation and love led Henle to the plan to bring Egloff to the point of being accepted in bourgeois society as his lover and as a bride.

Henle attached particular importance to his family’s judgment.

Above: Jakob Henle (1809 – 1885)

Initially, only his two brothers-in-law Carl Matthieu and Adolf Schöll were informed of Henle’s intentions.

In April 1844, Elise Egloff disappeared from Zurich without leaving any messages to family and acquaintances.

Jacob Henle put her in the care of his brother-in-law Carl Gustav August Mathieu, who in turn introduced her under a pseudonym to a girls’ boarding school for “higher daughters” in Traben (on the Moselle River), where Egloff went through the usual bourgeois educational program in the circle of significantly younger classmates: language education, religion, literature, mythology, declamation, piano playing, drawing and dance.

After targeted indiscretions by Adolf Schöll, who was driven by pity for Elise Egloff – who also collaborated the still secret story early on with Berthold Auerbach  – Jacob Henle inaugurated his sister Marie and instructed her a key role in the educational experiment:

From your hand I want to welcome her as my bride or never see her again.

Marie Mathieu immediately travelled to Traben to see Elise.

Her impression was unfavorable, so she tried to dampen her brother’s hopes for a successful outcome of the experiment.

On the intervention of Henle’s sister, the written contact between Jacob Henle and Elise Egloff was interrupted in August 1844, and a visit by the prominent scholar to Traben was ruled out. 

Traben-Trarbach, 2012-08 CN-01.jpg
Above: Traben-Trarbach

After a year of civic education in Traben without contact with Jacob Henle, Elise Egloff came to the house of the childless couple Mathieu in Trier in May 1845.

Here she was allowed to write letters to Henle again.

The upbringing in the house of Mathieu was marked by conflicts with Marie Mathieu, who was often overwhelmed and initially considered Egloff to be unsuitable.

Henle later wrote to Mathieu (in May 1846):

The mistake was less in the people than in the situations and I didn’t want to advise anyone to repeat the experiment.

A less tender sister and a less in love bride would not have done it.” 

At times it looked as if “the educational experiment has become a sustained character test and heart research that overwhelmed all participants.

Although Henle still thought in the autumn of 1845 that he could pull himself out of the affair without any major problems if the experiment failed, his tone in the letters to Egloff became more loving, and his reluctant sister asked for more objectivity in reporting on Elise.

Above: Porta Nigra, Trier

At the end of September 1845, Elise Egloff wrote to Jacob Henle:

Let me not live in uncertainty for years, but in everything I feel good and know it too well that you deserve a higher person who has more spirit and merit.

In October 1845, Elise Egloff and Jacob Henle met for the first time after a year and a half, and Henle informed his father.

Driven by another targeted indiscretion by Adolf Schöll, the engagement was publicly announced in December 1845, Henle wrote (partly ironically):

….and so I am now the groom of a girl from Thurgau, who I met in Zürich, parentless, poor but beautiful and good, named Elise Egloff, who has been living with my sister for a year, in order to acquire some German education, because the Swiss one was not enough for my high rank.” 

In February 1846 Jacob Henle wrote to Schöll:

I have a certainty that I will be loved with an insensitivity that I can hardly live by myself, and I have a rather extensive heart.

In Trier, I felt this happiness in full, which means to possess a being completely and to be everything to him.

That is why I look forward to the future with joyful confidence.

In March 1846 the wedding ceremony took place in Trier.

Above: Trier, 1900

Already on her honeymoon to Vienna the bride suffered from coughing fits and “blood cough” (tuberculosis).

The couple lived at the Henles school in Heidelberg.

Above: Heidelberg

In December 1846 their son Karl Henle was born, on 20 January 1848, the daughter Elise Henle.

Her mother died of pulmonary tuberculosis on 21 February 1848.

Already in time one wondered whether the “experimental arrangement of this educational experiment had an unfavorable influence on the course of the disease.

This is how the Henle biographer Friedrich Merkel reports:

Although Elise may have carried the germ around her for a long time, it is very possible, even probable, that the excitement and the tremendous spiritual work of the last two years had accelerated the ominous outbreak of suffering.” 

Jacob Henle himself made great accusations about the two-year apprenticeship he had expected his late wife to “ate social capacity“:

He was tortured by the remorse that he had not spared Elise the two-year detour, and that she had married immediately, and the idea tormented him that her body was weakened and no longer resilient to the treacherous disease by the longing she suffered in the Trier period with Marie Mathieu.” 

The physician Jacob Henle wrote to his siblings on the anniversary of her death:

Sooner than I would expect, I must say, Hope, death has redeemed my good poor Elise from her sufferings and spared her worse.

Today at 5 o’clock she died in my arms.

Now, in fact, I feel my abandonment not so much as the happiness of seeing the poor lover escape from some of the horrors of the disease that were still ahead of her.” 

After the death of Elise Egloff, there seemed to have been repeated discussions within the Henle family about the “educational experiment“.

Merkel wrote that Henle himself or his family often wondered whether his marriage to Elise would have been “satisfactory” permanently if she had not died at the birth of her second child.

The question is answered at least by the chronicler Merkel as such:

Although it is now very understandable to us that this question has arisen, it is, of course, a idle one.

After all, no one knows how she would have developed if she had lived longer.

It possessed three qualities which would have been able to continue to and continue to educate, promote and exalt them.

Above all, she fulfilled an unlimited love for her husband and she could never get enough evidence of how cordially she had approached him to please him, for her nothing was too much.

A second characteristic that adorned Mrs Elise was her extraordinary energy, and one can be sure that by the same one that had already lifted her so high, she would continue to fill the gaps that, of course, still attached to her education.

She felt very vividly that she was not yet fully at the height of her husband and once played out in her presence a little battle of words, which was conducted with all the weapons of spirit, wit and reading, then she became silent and was annoyed that she could not follow it.

She would no doubt have set all her ambition to get to the point where she could have given up the role of silent listener in any case.

A third characteristic, which she had to bring to her husband’s attention, was the ability to enjoy a cheerful life, which was so completely his own and which he had to appreciate to the utmost with his wife.”

Elise Egloff was buried on 23 February 1848 in the Bergfriedhof (mountain cemetery) in Heidelberg in the presence of witnesses Reinhard Blum and Ludwig Häusser, both professors and colleagues of Jacob Henle at the University of Heidelberg.

Henle himself was unable to attend his wife’s funeral due to illness.

The Kaufgräberbuch contains an entry of February 24, 1848 about the completion of the grave for “Henle, Anna, Frau Hofrat, Grabreihe E, Grab 21.”

In 1958, the tomb of Elise Henle was confiscated, according to the dissolution decision of 25 February 1958. 

Above: Bergfriedhof Haupteingang (main gate of Mountain Cemetery), Heidelberg

(It is customary after a time in Germany to “recycle” gravesites.

Only the truly famous are guaranteed a permanent resting place.)

Berthold Auerbach learned from Adolf Schöll the then still secret history of the relationship between Elise Egloff and Jacob Henle in 1845, and later he also met Elise Egloff personally.

Auerbach was inspired by this to create the story Die Frau Professorin (1846) as part of his Black Forest Village Stories in which Reinhard, a professor of the academy of art, and Lorle, a host daughter from a rural village, fall in love.

They get married and move to a residence town.

Here, however, it becomes apparent that the fresh natural child Lorle does not find her way around in the urban world and in the courtly educational bourgeoisie, is rude and simple.

Reinhard, who initially raved about the naturalness of village life and of his wife, is increasingly falling into the city life and the Residence Cabal and is tired of his wife “pre-spelling the ABC of education.

He withdraws from her inwardly and increasingly takes refuge in alcohol.

The attempt to strike a balance between the worlds of life fails, Lorle comes to this conclusion and returns to her village.

The Black Forest Village Stories are considered to be the authoritative foundation of the genre of village history.

Above: Berthold Auerbach (1812 – 1882)

Charlotte Birch-Pfeiffer worked on Auerbach’s village history in 1847 and turned The Woman Professor into a successful stage play entitled Village and Town. 

Auerbach sued (unsuccessfully) Birch-Pfeiffer for copyright infringement.

Despite, or precisely because of, the resulting sensation, the play contributed significantly to the popularity of this village history.

Auerbach had meanwhile moved to Heidelberg and was friendly with Jacob Henle, who stayed at the same time as Elise Henle (née Egloff) for the cure in Badenweiler (July 1847).

After Elise’s death, he became closer with Jacob Henle, because Auerbach had also lost his wife in his bed at about the same time. 

It was only through the success of the Village and Town that Henle learned of Auerbach’s story and felt deceived:

I was really outraged by the way he [Auerbach] used my tragic marriage almost only for jewellery and side work.

That is not to rise above human suffering, but to make a profit out of them.” 

In his pain, Henle had apparently not taken note of the fact that Auerbach had completed the story before Elise’s death.

Above: Charlotte Birch-Pfeiffer (1800 – 1868)

Thematically related to Auerbach’s story is The Lost Handwriting (1864) by Gustav Freytag, a friend of Auerbach’s:

A professor wins a farmer’s daughter as a partner, and the problem of the peasant girl transplanted into the city and in farm circles arises. 

Above: Gustav Freytag (1816 – 1895)

Ludwig Anzengruber tells a story in Der Sternsteinhof (1885), presumably consciously meant as a contrast to Auerbach and probably also to Die Frau Professorin: 

A poor girl decides that she will become the mistress of the rich Sternsteinhof.

She ruthlessly realizes her dream and then becomes an exemplary farmer.

The naturalistic, neither romantic nor sentimental depiction of a peasant character stands in contrast to Auerbach’s tendency (especially after 1848) to the transfigured village romanticism, in whose tradition the local novels still stand today as trivial literature.

Above: Ludwig Anzengruber (1839 – 1889)

Gottfried Keller’s Regine in the novella of the same name is regarded in literary research as a “poetic monument” of Elise Egloff.

Keller had met Henle and his wife in Zürich in 1846 and left a rather bizarre impression on the couple.

Two years later Keller visited Henle’s anthropological college in Heidelberg, which he described in Der Grüne Heinrich

(Keller on the lecture:

The first hour had such an effect on me that I forgot the purpose that brought me and everything and was alone curious about the coming experience.”)

Like other authors, Keller took a critical view of the Village Stories of Auerbach.

Above: Gottfried Keller (1819 – 1890)

In 1851, he began in Berlin with conceptions for a Galatea novella cycle, which turned against “this miserable Reinhard” and also referred generally polemically to Auerbach, who was accused in the later literary review of “natural swarming“, “clichéd trivial basic constellations” in the plot and a characteristic “shield against the problem contents of the time” (Fritz Martini).

Above all, Keller originally objected to the irreconcilability of culture and nature, or town and village, which was dealt with in The Woman Professor.

Keller, however, held back the story for 30 years, perhaps because he met Berthold Auerbach in 1856, made friends with him and was supported by Auerbach, who was even better known at the time.

It was not until 1880, at the urging of his publisher, that he began to work on the work, and the novella cycle Das Sinngedicht was created:

Keller contrasts the art professor Reinhard with the naturalist Reinhart, the “Mrs. Professor” Lorle with his art creations Lucie and Regine.

Above: Pygmalion creates Galatea

The frame narrative begins with the naturalist Reinhart deciding in his laboratory to ride into the vast country due to signs of fatigue and to test an epigram of Friedrich von Logaus  – The Poem of Meaning (Sinngedicht)– in reality:

How do you want to turn white lilies into red roses? / Kiss a white Galatea: she will laugh blushingly

The Pygmalion – Galatea complex is thus laid out as a basic theme, but is then dissolved in the 8th chapter (out of a total of 13) with Regine. 

Lucie engages her interlocutor Reinhart in a narrative contest about problems of partner choice and the understanding of roles of the sexes.

In the context of the competition, Reinhart reproduces, among other things, the story of Regine, which is much closer to the true events of Elise Egloff and Jacob Henle than Auerbach’s The Woman Professor:

The embassy attaché Erwin Altenauer, a wealthy and art-loving American of German origin, falls in love with the maid Regine.

Erwin successfully promotes the catching-up education of Regine when he is suddenly recalled to America.

However, he does not want to take Regine with him until she knows how to behave in all respects.

She is subjected to an educational program to overcome the boundaries of the status, and it leaves Regine in the society of three women who are enthusiastic about the art and culture scene, but of whom Keller paints a rather negative picture.

After Erwin’s return, the experiment fails in distrust and alienation, which, however, for the time being has nothing to do with the educational experiment itself, but above all – as Keller points out – are determined by fate:

Regine’s shame for her brother’s murder and Erwin’s suspicion that Regine is unfaithful to him, as well as the inability to talk about both, lead to tragedy.

In her perplexity, the “beautiful upstart” (Gunhild Kübler) takes her own life. 

Keller Gottfried, Regine“ – Bücher gebraucht, antiquarisch & neu kaufen

Kübler interprets as follows:

Behind Altenauer’s attempt to educate a woman according to her own conceptions of noble femininity, a mythical figure that shimmers in the ‘sense poem’ becomes visible:

Galatea, the statue created by the ancient sculptor Pygmalion and, at his request, animated by the love goddess – the woman who exists by man’s graces.

With Galatea-Regine’s death, the myth is torn, and in the refractions of the narrative duel between Reinhart and Lucie, he is said to be out of date.

As a pattern of a relationship between a man and a woman, he has become obsolete, because the role instructions corresponding to him are no longer playable for both sexes.

In its place are new, enlightening-egalitarian notions of eroticism and marital love, as they are unique in the literature of this time.”

Above: Pygmalion and Galatea

The comedy Pygmalion by George Bernard Shaw was premiered in German on 16 October 1913, and Shaw published the play anonymously in England in 1913.

Against Shaw’s express will, after his death, it underwent a reworking into the musical My Fair Lady.

My fair lady poster.jpg

Shaw himself gave no indication of a reference by Pygmalion to the historical event surrounding Elise Egloff or to the literary German-language translations.

A random analogy in content seems rather unlikely to some authors, however, given the many similarities,  the flower girl Eliza Doolittle takes on the role of the sewing girl Elise Egloff in this interpretation.

Shaw wrote in his foreword to Pygmalion that Professor Higgins’ character had a connection to the English linguist Henry Sweet.

Above: Henry Sweet (1845 – 1912)

Sweet specialized in Germanic languages and studied several times in Germany, in 1864 also at the University of Heidelberg, where the couple Henle had lived and where he might have experienced the well-known and literary mirrored love story of Elise Egloff and Jacob Henle.

Logo
Above: Logo of the University of Heidelberg

Perhaps Shaw came across the subject by reading Gottfried Keller’s poem or its review:

The London weekly Saturday Review, in which Shaw later worked (from 1895 to 1898), brought a longer review of the entire work in 1882, with Regine being highlighted as the most powerful narrative.

Another British weekly magazine, The Spectator, reviewed the poem in more detail a short time later, saying:

A new book from the pen of Gottfried Keller is an event not to be passed over.

He is, besides, the most genial, original novel-writer at present wielding the German language.

Both in the English press and in the circles of German studies, superlatives were used very early on, with Keller named as the greatest German-speaking author after Goethe.

Comparisons were initially drawn with Berthold Auerbach, who had already been well introduced in England and America, and the success of his Village Stories was largely due to the positive acceptance of the Keller novels.

Auerbach’s Die Frau Professorin appeared several times in English (first published in 1850).

Unlike Auerbach, interest in Keller did not dry up even after his death, even the term “Shakespeare of the Novelle“, coined by Paul Heyse on Keller, was adopted. 

Above: Paul Heyse (1830 – 1914)

It is not yet possible, but it is quite conceivable, that Shaw became aware of the material, especially since he spoke German well:

For the premiere in Vienna, Shaw translated the text of Pygmalion himself into German, but Siegfried Trebitsch then took over the translation of the printed book version.

Above: Siegfried Trebitsch (1868 – 1956)

In the comedy Pygmalion, the linguist Professor Henry Higgins notices the distinctive alley jargon of the flower girl Eliza Doolittle.

Convinced that the social position of an Englishman depends solely on his accent, he bets with his colleague Colonel Pickering that he can make Eliza appear in the best company as a fine lady, alone by freeing her from her Cockney accent and her poor manners.

But the comfort of Higgins’s bachelor household doesn’t long deceive Eliza about the humiliating fact that the self-deserving Higgins abuses her as a guinea pig without thinking about the consequences for Eliza.

The debut in society at a reception shows that Higgins has only addressed her accent and manners of a lady, shocking her vulgar phrases in the best pronunciation, and exhilarating those present, including Freddy Eynsford Hill, to the Eliza’s naturalness.

It is thanks not so much to the rude Professor Higgins, but to the gentleman Pickering – whose role resembles that of  Adolf Schöll in the historical event – that the experiment still succeeds:

It passes the decisive test, a message reception, brilliant.

Higgins basks in his triumph and is completely unable to understand Eliza’s despair.

Eliza realizes that she is now unfit for her previous life and that Higgins is also indifferent to her future.

She flees to Freddy, reckons with her “creator” Higgins in a big scene and demonstrates that it is not education but self-respect that makes up her personality.

Higgins sets out his selfish-self-serving attitude for the first time.

Shaw avoids a happy ending, however, so as not to (partially) undo the emancipation of his Galatea – much to the disappointment of theatergoers and readers who expected a final domestic idyll between Higgins and Eliza.

This request of the audience was only granted – against the express will of Shaw – with My Fair Lady.

Above: George Bernard Shaw (1856 – 1950)

There is much in Elise’s story with which I can relate, but beyond these stirrings there is nothing that compels us to drift from our programmed progress.

No compulsion is no deviation.

Tägerwilen, gegen Norden
Above: Tägerwilen from a distance

Meanwhile my mental jukebox has changed its tune from Cohen to the soundtrack of My Fair Lady.

I’m an ordinary man
Who desires nothing more than just an ordinary chance
To live exactly as he likes and do precisely what he wants
An average man am I, of no eccentric whim,
Who likes to live his life free of strife
Doing whatever he thinks is best for him
Well, just an ordinary man

But, let a woman in your life
And your serenity is through
She’ll redecorate your home, from the cellar to the dome
And then go on to the enthralling fun of overhauling you

Let a woman in your life
And you’re up against a wall
Make a plan and you will find she has something else in mind
And so rather than do either, you do something else that neither likes at all

You want to talk of Keats or Milton
She only wants to talk of love
You go to see a play or ballet
And spend it searching for her glove

Let a woman in your life
And you invite eternal strife
Let them buy their wedding bands
For those anxious little hands
I’d be equally as willing
For a dentist to be drilling
Than to ever let a woman in my life

I’m a very gentle man
Even-tempered and good-natured who you never hear complain
Who has the milk of human kindness by the quart in every vein
A patient man am I, down to my fingertips,
The sort who never would, never could
Let an insulting remark escape his lips
A very gentle man

But, let a woman in your life
And patience hasn’t got a chance
She will beg you for advice, your reply will be concise
And she’ll listen very nicely, and then go out and do precisely what she wants

You are a man of grace and polish
Who never spoke above a hush
Now all at once you’re using language
That would make a sailor blush

Let a woman in your life
And you’re plunging in a knife
Let the others of my sex tie the knot around their necks
I prefer a new edition of the Spanish Inquisition
Than to ever let a woman in my life

I’m a quiet living man
Who prefers to spend the evening in the silence of his room
Who likes an atmosphere as restful as an undiscovered tomb
A pensive man am I, of philosophical joys,
Who likes to meditate, contemplate,
Free from humanity’s mad inhuman noise
Just a quiet living man

But, let a woman in your life
And your sabbatical is through
In a line that never ends comes an army of her friends
Come to jabber and to chatter
And to tell her what the matter is with you!

She’ll have a booming boisterous family
Who will descend on you en masse
She’ll have a large Wagnarian mother
With a voice that shatters glass
Let a woman in your life
Let a woman in your life

I shall never let a woman in my life

I'm An Ordinary Man Paroles – MY FAIR LADY – GreatSong
Above: Rex Harrison, My Fair Lady

But the problem is that I already have.

Damn! Damn! Damn! Damn!
I’ve grown accustomed to her face
She almost makes the day begin
I’ve grown accustomed to the tune that
She whistles night and noon

Her smiles, her frowns
Her ups, her downs
Are second nature to me now
Like breathing out and breathing in

I was serenely independent and content before we met
Surely I could always be that way again
And yet
I’ve grown accustomed to her look
Accustomed to her voice
Accustomed to her face

But I’m so used to hear her say
Good morning” everyday
Her joys, her woes
Her highs, her lows

Are second nature to me now
Like breathing out and breathing in
I’m very grateful she’s a woman
And so easy to forget

Rather like a habit
One can always break
And yet
I’ve grown accustomed to the trace
Of something in the air
Accustomed to her face

My Fair Lady (1964) - I've Grown Accustomed to Her Face - YouTube
Above: Rex Harrison, My Fair Lady

The path leads us to the heart of Gottlieben, a town with a name that translates into English as “God’s love”.

Gottlieben was first mentioned as Agoiliubon at the end of the 10th century.

In 1251 Bishop Eberhard II of Waldburg built Castle Gottlieben, which served as a residence for the Bishops of Konstance, in Gottlieben.

The former water castle with two towers was built, together with a wooden bridge over the Rhine.

In doing so, the Bishop wanted to compete with the nearby city of Konstanz, with whose citizens he was at odds.

Above: Seal of Bishop Eberhard II (r. 1248 – 1274)

The two land-side corner towers of the middle 13th century, together with the palace added in 1346, the east wing from 1434 to 1446 and the north wing from 1475 to 1491, formed a mighty water castle, which was surrounded by a fortification.

In 1355, Gottlieben was attacked and burned down by Konrad von Homburg.

At the time of the Council of Konstanz in 1415, the reformer Jan Hus, Jerome of Prague and the deposed Pope John XXIII, who originally convened the Council and had invited Hus, were imprisoned together in the western tower of Castle Gottlieben. 

Above: Jan Hus (1370 – 1415)

Hieronymus prag a.jpg
Above: Jerome of Prague (1365—1416)

Above: John XXIII (1370 – 1419)

Above: Gottlieben Castle

After the Swabian War in 1499, the episcopal Obervogt (authorities) managed from Castle Gottlieben until 1798 the legal administration of the communnities of Gottlieben, Engwilen, Siegershausen and Tägerwilen.

In 1526, the Bishop left Gottlieben and built his residence in Meersburg. 

Above: Meersburg Castle

In the Thirty Years War (1618 – 1648), Swedish Field Marshal Gustaf Horn set up his headquarters in the fight against Konstanz in Gottlieben.

Above: Gustaf Horn (1592 – 1657)

On 24 February 1692, three houses sank into the Rhine during a storm.

In 1808, Gottlieben Castle came into private ownership.

After the death of his mother Hortense de Beauharnais, Prince Louis Napoleon (later Napoleon III) thought of an alternative residence to Arenenberg Castle and bought Gottlieben Castle, which he lived in only very briefly.

Above: Arenenberg

In 1837, the complex was redesigned in neo-Gothic style.

During the reconstruction, massive windows from the cloister of Konstanz Cathedral, which had burnt down in 1824, were used.

Above: Gottlieben Castle

Originally, Gottlieben was located in the parish of Tägerwilen.

During the Reformation in 1529, the whole congregation converted to the new faith.

From 1734 to 1735 the church was built and the reformed parish of Gottlieben was formed, which has been associated with Tägerwilen since 1912. 

Above: Gottlieben Reformed Church

In the 17th and 18th centuries, Gottlieben experienced an economic boom as a trading and transshipment point, especially salt, iron and wine, due to its favourable traffic situation on the Rhine.

In 1678 Gottlieben was granted market rights.

Although smaller industries settled in Gottlieben as early as the 19th century (button factory, horse-hair spinning mill), until after the middle of the 20th century, fishing, crafts and commerce formed the main acquisition of the population.

Above: Riegelhaus, Gottlieben

At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century there was an artist colony in Gottlieben, initiated by German writer Emanuel von Bodman (1874-1946) and German writer, painter and sculptor Heinrich Ernst Kromer (1866-1948).

Emanuel von Bodman - Liebesgedichte und Biographie
Above: Emanuel von Bodman

Portraits von und mit Heinrich Ernst Kromer | Biosphärengebiet Schwarzwald  Veranstaltungen
Above: Self portrait of Heinrich Ernst Kromer

There was a lively exchange with cultural figures of the turn of the century, such as: 

  • German poet Richard Dehmel

Above: Richard Dehmel (1863 – 1920)

  • Alsatian writer René Schickele 

Above: René Schickle (1883 – 1940)

  • German writer Wilhelm von Scholz 

Above: Wilhelm von Scholz (1874 – 1969)

  • Czech poet Rainer Maria Rilke

Above: Rainer Maria Rilke (1875 – 1926)

  • German writer / physician Ludwig Finckh  (1876 – 1964)

  • German philosopher / psychologist Ludwig Klages

Ludwig Klages - Wikipedia
Above: Ludwig Klages (1872 – 1956)

  • German writer Hermann Hesse
Above: Hermann Hesse (1877 – 1962)

 

  • German writer Thomas Mann 

Above: Thomas Mann (1875 – 1955)

In 1926, the German diplomat Wilhelm Muehlom, who emigrated to Switzerland in 1916, acquired Gottlieben Castle.

In the long run, however, Muehlon’s proximity to the border seemed too dangerous and he gave up this residence in September 1939 in favour of a domicile in Klosters in the Grisons Mountains of Graubünden.

Above: Klosters in winter

After 1945, tourism developed, so that today, besides two boatyards and the well-known Hüppen Bakery, gastronomy in Gottlieben is the most important employer.

Gottlieben is home to a bakery whose Göttlieber Hüppen (filled waffle rolls) are an internationally renowned pastry speciality.

In 1950, the Swiss opera singer Lisa della Casa and her husband Dragan Debeljevic acquired Gottlieben Castle.

Lisa Della Casa
Above: Lisa della Casa (1919 – 2012)

In 2000, a memorial and cultural site was opened with the Bodman House, the former residence of the poet Emanuel von Bodman.

Above: Bodman House (left) and the Old Schoolhouse (right), Gottlieben

Among the personalities that Gottlieben has known:

  • Robert Hallum (1360 -1417), Chancellor of the University of Oxford (1403-1405), Bishop of Salisbury (1407-1417)

Robert Hallum studied at the University of Oxford, served as the Archbishop of Canterbury from 1381 and was Chancellor of the University of Oxford from 1403 to 1405.

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Above: Coat of arms of the University of Oxford

In 1406 he was appointed Archbishop of York, but King Henry IV did not accept it.

Above: King Henry IV of England (1366 – 1413)

In 1407 he was appointed Bishop of Salisbury by Pope Gregory XII.

Above: Pope Gregory XII (1335 – 1417)

On June 6, 1411, he was created a Cardinal by Pope John XXIII, but Hallum did not take the position.

Above: Coat of arms of Pope John XXIII

At the Council of Pisa in 1409 he represented the English Church.

Above: Leaning Tower and the Cathedral, Pisa, Italy

At the Council of Konstanz he was the chief ambassador of the English embassy.

Above: Council of Konstanz (1414 – 1418) in discussion with Konstanz Cathedral

For King Henry V he represented a course of church reform.

Above: King Henry V of England (1387 – 1422)

During the Council he died unexpectedly in Gottlieben and was buried at his request in Konstanz Cathedral, where a relief plaque in front of the steps to the high choir commemorates him.

Above: Grave slab of Robert Hallum in Konstanz Cathedral

  • Lisa della Casa (1919 – 2012), opera singer, owner of Gottlieben Castle

OPERA NEWS - Lisa Della Casa, 93, Nonpareil Interpreter of Mozart and  Strauss Heroines, Has Died
Above: Lisa della Casa

Lisa Della Casa was the second child of the ophthalmologist Dr. Francesco Roberto Della Casa (1879 – 1949) and his wife Magarete (1877-1948).

From the age of 15 she received singing lessons.

After studying singing in Bern and Zürich, she made her first appearance in 1941 as an opera singer in Solothurn – Biel in the role of Cio-Cio-San in Puccini’s “Madame Butterfly“.

Madama Butterfly, Illustration von Adolfo Hohenstein

From then, her career path was mapped out.

She made her debut at the Stadttheater Zürich (now Opernhaus Zürich) in 1943, where she was a member of the ensemble until 1950, and sang for the first time at the Salzburg Festival in 1947.

Above: Zürich Opera House

In the film Füsilier Wipf (1938), della Casa played the Vreneli (speaking role).

Fuesilier Wipf - DVD - online kaufen | Ex Libris

Della Casa starred in the 1940 film Mier lönd nöd lugg.

Lisa Della Casa (1919–2012) Opernsängerin, Theater-Schauspielerin. Dialekt Theateraufführung «Mier lönd nöd lugg» von Regisseur H.Haller. Von links nach rechts: Häddy Wettstein, Nelly Ruff, Hauptarstellerin Lisa Della Casa und Lilo Aufdermaur. (1940)
Above: Lisa Della Casa in the leading role of the theatrical performance Mier lönd nöd lugg (1940)

Della Casa was from 1947 a member of the Vienna State Opera, from 1953 to 1968 a member of the Metropolitan Opera in New York, as well as a permanent guest of the Bavarian State Opera in Munich and of the Salzburg Festival.

Architektur STOP Front 20150922 C MichaelPoehn.jpg
Above: Vienna State Opera

Above: Metropolitan Opera, New York City

Above: Bavarian State Opera, Munich

In 1951 she performed at the Glyndebourne Festival.

Above: Glyndebourne Opera House, Sussex, England

A year later she made her debut in Bayreuth, but she felt the atmosphere there as stiff and pretentious. 

Above: Richard Wagner Festival House, Bayreuth, Germany

In 1952 she was appointed chamber singer.

In 1944 Lisa della Casa married Ernst Geiser from Langenthal and divorced him five years later.

At the end of 1949 she married the Serbian art historian, musicologist and publicist Dragan Debeljevic (1921-2014).

In 1950, she and her second husband, Dragan Debeljevic, acquired Gottlieben Castle, where she lived in complete seclusion until her death.

Above: Gottlieben Castle

Their daughter Vesna-Rajka was born in 1951.

Surprisingly, she retired from the stage in 1974.

The end of her career had to do with a personal stroke of fate – the serious illness of her daughter Vesna.

Dragan Debeljevic published her biography a year later under the title “A Life with Lisa Della Casa“.

Ein Leben mit Lisa Della Casa oder "In dem Schatten ihrer Locken"“ – Bücher  gebraucht, antiquarisch & neu kaufen

The parents of Lisa della Casa founded a well-known restaurant in Bern under the surname, which still exists today.

Restaurants - della-casas Webseite!
Above: Restaurant Della Casa, Bern

On 10 December 2012, Lisa Della Casa died in Münsterlingen on Lake Constance.

Lisa della Casa was one of the leading figures of the post-war period, especially in the Mozart and Richard Strauss discipline.

The beauty of her appearance, the aristocratic nobility of her appearance, the silver timbre, the almost incorporeal immaculateness of her vocal line and the credibility of her design, which combined elegance with intensity, made her exceptional.

Lisa Della Casa | Female singers, Opera singers, Sopranos
Above: Lisa della Casa

  • Udo Jürgens (1934 – 2014), Austrian composer, pianist and singer, had a second home in Gottlieben and died while walking on the lake promenade

Udo Jürgens (born Jürgen Udo Bockelmann) was a composer, pianist and singer of mainly German-language songs. 

In addition to Austrian citizenship, he also held Swiss citizenship from 2007 until his death.

With over 100 million records sold, Udo Jürgens was one of the most commercially successful entertainment musicians in the German-speaking world.

His career spanned nearly 60 years.

He is stylistically between hits, chanson, jazz and pop music.

He was the first Austrian to win the Eurovision Song Contest in 1966.

Above: Udo Jürgens

Udo Jürgens was born in Klagenfurt to German parents.

Jürgens grew up in his parents’ castle Ottmanach on the Magdalensberg (Magdalen Mountain) in Carinthia together with his two brothers John (1931 – 2006) and Manfred.

Above: Ottmanach Castle, Magdalensberg, Carinthia, Austria

He taught himself how to play the piano.

He received systematic instruction only later.

According to his biography The Man with the Bassoon, he received a violent slap from a Hitler Youth group leader which resulted in a reduction in his hearing ability on one ear. 

He left high school one year before graduation.

Later he studied music at the Carinthian State Conservatory (now the Gustav Mahler Private University of Music) in Klagenfurt and at the Mozarteum in Salzburg.

Above: Concert Hall, Gustav Mahler Private University of Music, Klagenfurt, Austria

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Above: Logo of the Mozarteum

From 1964 to 1989 Jürgens was married to former model Erika Meier, called Panja.

They had two children, John and Jenny.

In addition, Udo Jürgens had two daughters out of wedlock, Sonja Jürgens and Gloria Burda.

Udo und Panja Jürgens - Allgemeines - Die Udo Jürgens Fan-Site
Above: Jürgens, John, Jenny and Panja

In June 1977, Jürgens moved into a penthouse apartment at the Bellevue in Zürich.

Bellevue
Above: Bellevue Place, Zürich

Since at that time both Austria and Germany had tax debts, this move was interpreted in various media as tax evasion.

Jürgens, however, saw this debt covered by a “seven-figure amount” deposited in a Munich blocked account. 

On July 4, 1999 he married his long-term partner Corinna Reinhold (from Mönchengladbach – Rheydt) in New York.

Together they moved into a house in Zumikon, Switzerland, in 1997.

They divorced in 2006.

Udo Jürgens: Der Sänger war keiner seiner Frauen treu | GALA.de
Above: Corinna Reinhold and Udo Jürgens

In February 2007, Udo Jürgens obtained Swiss citizenship.

He was allowed to retain his Austrian citizenship, so that he was a dual citizen.

In July 2012, Jürgens acquired a villa in the municipality of Meilen, which Migros founder Gottlieb Duttweiler had built in 1930.

Above: Gottlieb Duttweiler

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The Gottlieb-Duttweiler-Villa was completely renovated between 2012 and 2016.

He lived in Gottlieben during the reconstruction period.

In 2015, he wanted to move into the villa in Meilen, but his death prevented this.

Kirche Meilen, Fähre
Above: Meilen

Udo Jürgens repeatedly referred to himself as an atheist in public. 

After the Swiss initiative “Against Mass Immigration” was decided by a narrow majority in February 2014, Jürgens was quoted in the German-language media after an interview with the Bild newspaper as saying:

That shocked me and deeply disappointed me.

Europe is the best idea this continent has had for a thousand years.

I was ashamed of the decision for Switzerland” and that he “no longer felt welcome in Switzerland”, which subsequently led to controversial reactions.

Logo der Bild-Zeitung

In another interview with Bluewin Entertainment, he put these statements into perspective as a misunderstanding, noting:

“I’m sorry for this statement, I honestly admit that.” 

On 21 December 2014, Udo Jürgens collapsed unconscious during a walk in Gottlieben and died of heart failure at the age of 80 despite an attempt to resuscitate him in the hospital in Münsterlingen.

Two weeks earlier, he had completed the first part of his 25th concert tour in Zürich, which was under the motto “Mitten im Leben“.

He made his last public appearance on 12 December 2014 at the Berlin Velodrome in the Helene Fischer Show.

Above: Helene Fischer

The performance was televised shortly after his death at Christmas.

According to his own wishes, his body was cremated.

The cremation was carried out on 23 December 2014, two days after his death.

On 15 January 2015, around 200 friends and companions bid farewell to Udo Jürgens at a memorial service in Zürich.

On 23 January, Jürgens’ urn was erected in the Volkshalle of the Vienna City Hall, where the public was able to pay their last respects to the musician.

Above: Vienna City Hall (Wiener Rathaus)

Officials such as Austrian President Heinz Fischer and Federal Chancellor Werner Faymann entered their names in the condolence books.

Above: Heinz Fischer

Above: Werner Faymann

He was buried on 9 May 2015 in an honorary grave of the city of Vienna (group 33 G, grave no. 85) in the Central Cemetery.

The tombstone represents a wing wrapped in a white mourning cloth.

One of the tombstone’s passages reads:

You are the sheet of music that was all for me. 

I’ll leave you everything.

I’ll leave you all there.” 

Above: Final resting place of Udo Jürgens

Udo Jürgens is considered one of the most important entertainers of the 20th and early 21st century.

He composed more than 1,000 songs, released more than 50 music albums and sold more than 105 million records during his more than sixty-year career. 

He is one of the most successful male solo artists in the world.

Since 2015, he has also held the world record as the longest successful artist in the charts with over 57 years, from his first entry in 1958 to 2015.

Jürgens holds the record as the most frequently represented German-speaking singer with 61 rankings in the album charts and has a total of 616 album placements and 411 single rankings by the end of 2014.

Above: Udo Jürgens

In his early years he was mostly seen as a pop singer, later he pushed his boundaries with his extensive compositional work.

His lyrics, which come from various lyricists and from himself, often addressed social themes, for example, decadence in his Café Größenwahn (1993).

Udo Jürgens – Café Grössenwahn (1993, CD) - Discogs

With An Honourable House (1975) he caricatured the bourgeois bigotry in relation to “wild marriage“, which was often still perceived as problematic at the time – the “marriage without a marriage certificate“.

Udo Jürgens - Ein ehrenwertes Haus - - YouTube

He also commented on the problem of guest workers (Greek Wine, 1974), on the environment (5 minutes before 12, 1982), on the arms race (Dream Dancer,1983) and on the drug problem (Red blooms the poppy, 1984).

ultratop.be - Udo Jürgens - Griechischer Wein

Udo Jürgens – 5 Minuten Vor 12 (1982, Vinyl) - Discogs

Udo Jürgens – Rot Blüht Der Mohn (1984, Vinyl) - Discogs

In the title Go and multiply from The Blue Album (1988), he created a connection between the Pope and a Biblical quotation.

The radio programmers of the Bayerischer Rundfunk therefore included the song on their non-play list.

Jurgens, Udo - Das Blaue Album - Amazon.com Music

Also on this album is the song Moscow – New York, in which Jürgens sings of the fall of the Berlin Wall a year earlier.

His wide-ranging work also includes symphonic compositions, such as Word and The Crown of Creation, which were recorded with the Berliner Philharmoniker.

On 2 December 2007 was the premiere of the Udo Jürgens musical Ich war noch niemals in New York at the Operettenhaus in Hamburg.

Since then, the musical has been performed in Vienna (from 2010), Stuttgart (from 2010), Tokyo (from 2011), Oberhausen and Zurich (from 2012) and in Berlin (from 2015).

In 1992 Jürgens played on the Donauinsel (Danube Island) in Vienna in front of 220,000 spectators.

A hallmark of his live concerts were the encores, which he always sang in a white bathrobe.

Udo Jürgens: Ich war noch niemals in New York

Gottlieben is home to two boatyards as well as hotel and restoration companies are located here.

The location of the municipality on the shipping line and the picturesque townscape, which is characterized by half-timbered houses, make the municipality a popular tourist destination, especially in the summer months.

Gottlieben is a stop of the shipping company Untersee & Rhein.

Hafen von Gottlieben | Mapio.net

It is the bakery’s café that makes us yearn for an end to the lockdown, for the café setting on the shore, their wonderful drinks and yummy desserts, and their impeccable service have also attracted us to Gottlieben.

The café is closed.

Above: The dessert, Lubin Baugin

We brought some snacks with us and a thermos of tea and so we sit on a bench near the cruise ship landing.

So much should be said, so much goes unsaid.

Gottlieben - Kleiner Ort, große Schätze

I long to tell her how I feel like a latter-day male Eliza Doolittle in trying to fit in a society that is unwelcoming and judgmental.

I long to tell how even when I was teaching fulltime that Switzerland never felt like home.

I long to tell her of the music running through my mind (usually 80s hits) and how like John Waite’s song “Missing You” in all its ironic denial of loss (playing at that moment) I really feel.

To make the song accurate only requires switching “I” with “you”

I spend my time
Thinking about you
And it’s almost driving me wild
And that’s my heart that’s breaking
Down this long distance line tonight

I ain’t missing you at all
Since you’ve been gone away
I ain’t missing you
No matter
What my friends say

There’s a message in the wire
And I’m sending you this signal tonight
You don’t know how desperate I’ve become
And it looks like I’m losing this fight

In your world I have no meaning
Though I’m trying hard to understand
And it’s my heart that’s breaking
Down this long distance line tonight

But I ain’t missing you at all
Since you’ve been gone away
I ain’t missing you
No matter what I might say

John Waite - Missing You.jpg

I need to go to Turkey.

I need to rediscover the joy of doing a job I love.

But doing what I love means a separation of months and possibly years.

I long for her happiness but I can no longer sacrifice my own desires for hers.

The song changes to Jim Croce’s “Lover’s Cross” as the descending sun encourages our walking back to Ermatingen before darkness claims the remains of the day.

I guess that it was bound to happen
Was just a matter of time
Now I’ve come to my decision
And it’s a one of the painful kind
‘Cause now it seems that you wanted a martyr
Just a regular guy wouldn’t do
But baby, I can’t hang upon no lover’s cross for you

I really gotta hand it to ya
‘Cause girl you really tried
But for every time that we spent laughin’
There were two times that I cried
And you were tryin’ to make me your martyr
And that’s the one thing I just couldn’t do
‘Cause baby, I can’t hang upon no lover’s cross for you

‘Cause tables are meant for turnin’
And people are bound to change
And bridges are meant for burnin’
When the people and memories
They join aren’t the same

Still I hope that you can find another
Who can take what I could not
He’ll have to be a super guy
Or maybe a super god
‘Cause I never was much of a martyr before
And I ain’t ’bout to start nothin’ new
And baby, I can’t hang upon no lover’s cross for you.

Jim Croce – Lover's Cross (1985, Vinyl) - Discogs

I don’t expect her to be a martyr for me nor I for her.

I cannot stop loving her, but I must start loving myself.

Love : Buscaglia, Leo F : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet  Archive

We say what does not matter.

What matters we do not say.

The path follows the railroad and in two weeks’ time this railroad will lead to the airport.

Bild: Bahnhof "Ermatingen" • Schienenverkehr-Schweiz.ch

I am not remotely religious but I identify with Moses in one respect:

A faltering tongue.

As a child I stuttered.

As a man I struggle to find the words to express myself in speech.

As a man in a discussion with a woman I am at a disadvantage.

Guido Reni - Moses with the Tables of the Law - WGA19289.jpg
Above: Moses with the tablets of the Ten Commandments, Guido Reni

I want to tell her that just because I am leaving her behind doesn’t not mean that she is out of my life.

The difficulty is not in that I don’t care.

The difficulty is that I care too damn much.

Murray McLauchlan – Try Walking Away / Don't Put Your Faith In Men (1979,  Vinyl) - Discogs

The wind tosses the grasses barely covered by remnants of snow.

The Lake softly murmurs.

The only other sound is the crunching of pebbles beneath our feet.

The murmuring and crunching can barely conceal the racing beat of my heart.

Something else she cannot hear.

Damit die aussergewöhnliche Vogelwelt am Untersee nicht gestört wird: Hunde  gehören an die Leine zwischen Ermatingen und Gottlieben | St.Galler Tagblatt

Baby, I’ve been waiting,
I’ve been waiting night and day
I didn’t see the time,
I waited half my life away
There were lots of invitations
And I know you sent me some
But I was waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

I know you really loved me
But, you see, my hands were tied
And I know it must have hurt you,
It must have hurt your pride
To have to stand beneath my window
With your bugle and your drum
And me I’m up there waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

Ah I don’t believe you’d like it,
You wouldn’t like it here
There ain’t no entertainment
And the judgments are severe
The Maestro says it’s Mozart
But it sounds like bubble gum
When you’re waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

Waiting for the miracle
There’s nothing left to do
I haven’t been this happy
Since the end of World War II

Nothing left to do
When you know that you’ve been taken
Nothing left to do
When you’re begging for a crumb
Nothing left to do
When you’ve got to go on waiting
Waiting for the miracle to come

I dreamed about you, baby
It was just the other night
Most of you was naked
Ah but some of you was light
The sands of time were falling
From your fingers and your thumb
And you were waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

Ah baby, let’s get married
We’ve been alone too long
Let’s be alone together
Let’s see if we’re that strong
Yeah let’s do something crazy,
Something absolutely wrong
While we’re waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

Nothing left to do
When you know that you’ve been taken
Nothing left to do
When you’re begging for a crumb
Nothing left to do
When you’ve got to go on waiting
Waiting for the miracle to come

When you’ve fallen on the highway
And you’re lying in the rain,
And they ask you how you’re doing
Of course you’ll say you can’t complain
If you’re squeezed for information,
That’s when you’ve got to play it dumb
You just say you’re out there waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

LeonardCohenTheFuture.gif

THere are many things I should say and many things that I cannot say.

Of all that goes unsaid are the words:

Happy Valentine’s Day

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Hürriyet Daily News, 7 May 2021 / “Peru’s foreign minister resigns in scandal over early vaccination of official“, The Guardian, 15 February 2021 / “Myanmar junta warns public not to hide fugitive protestors“, Channel News Asia, 14 February 2021 / “Guinea declares Ebola epidemic after three deaths“, Al-Jazeera, 14 February 2021 / “DR Congo militia kills 11 civilians: army“, Manila Standard, 15 February 2021 / “Turkey says militants executed 13, including soldiers in Iraq“, Reuters, 14 February 2021 / Soundtrack, My Fair Lady / Lucille, Kenny Rogers / Famous Blue Raincoat, Leonard Cohen / Missing You, John Waite / Waiting for the Miracle, Leonard Cohen

With great access comes….

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Monday 28 December 2020

Yesterday the wife and I went on a winter walk in the Flumserberg region of Canton St. Gallen, a 10-kilometer walk in -5°C weather.

Surprisingly, more people outside walking, skiing, sledding than I expected during this second Swiss lockdown.

Unsurprisingly, a lot fewer people than one would normally find during these six days of limbo between Christmas and New Year’s, as the ski lodges that remain open to serve food only allow takeaway.

A whole tale could be (and hopefully will be) told about our weekend (26 – 27 December) in the Walenstadt – Flumserberg area, but I find myself feeling annoyed this morning at a few folks we met during our walks.

W97 Winterwanderung Maschgenkamm - Panüöl - Alp Fursch - Tannenboden

This annoyance was sparked into life (and words) again as I read this morning collected copies of old Canadian newspapers I bought in January in preparation of writing another post about my travels in Canada.

Thewhig.png

New York City, Thursday 8 January 2020

Denying he was biased, the judge in Harvey Weinstein’s rape trial refused to remove himself from the high profile case, rejecting an accusation by the former film producers’ lawyers.

Above: Harvey Weinstein

I have in no way prejudged this case,” Justice James Burke told Weinstein’s lawyers.

I am going to great lengths to afford your client a fair trial.

Harvey Weinstein seeks new judge in New York sex crimes trial - ABC News

Above: Justice James Burke

Weinstein (67) has pleaded not guilty to charges of assaulting two women and faces life in prison if convicted on the most serious charge: predatory sexual assault.

His trial began on Monday (6 January 2020) and could last up to two months.

Harvey Weinstein Case: Everything to Know

(It ended on 24 February.

Weinstein was sentenced to 23 years in prison on 11 March.)

Rose McGowan in 2018.jpg

Above: Rose McGowan, 2018, wrote on Twitter that she told Amazon Studios head Roy Price that Weinstein had raped her, but Price ignored this and continued collaborating with Weinstein.

Price later resigned from his post following sexual harassment allegations against him.

Since 2017, more than 80 women have accused him of sexual misconduct dating back decades.

Weinstein has denied all the allegations, saying any sexual encounters he had were consensual.

Judge won't toss Weinstein case

Above: Weinstein (left) and his chief council Arthur Aidala (right)

One of his lawyers, Arthur Aidala, filed a motion on Wednesday (8 January) urging Burke to recuse himself.

Harvey Weinstein doesn't think he can get a fair trial in Manhattan

As evidence of juicidal bias, Aidala cited a comment Burke made Tuesday (7 January) when he threatened to revoke Weinstein’s bail after catching him using his cellphone in court.

Judge threatens to jail Harvey Weinstein for using cellphone in court during  jury selection | South China Morning Post

Is this really the way you want to end up in jail for the rest of your life, by texting and violating a court order?“, the judge said at the time.

Judge refuses to remove himself after Weinstein's lawyers claim bias -  Reuters

Burke on Thursday said that even if the comments were “hyperbolic“, they were not evidence of prejudice.

I certainly never actually meant that I was going to put your client in jail for life, nor did I mean, because I have not, that I have prejudged whether he is guilty or innocent of the charges“, the judge said.

Burke also denied Aidala’s request to delay the trial for a “cooling off period“.

Harvey Weinstein Sentenced To Prison For Rape And Sexual Assault – Deadline

This article grabbed my attention during the events of Canada Slim and the Napanee Sadness and recaptured it this morning, not for the justification of Weinstein’s trial.

Weinstein – if what is said about him is true – is a womanizer who used his powerful role in Hollywood to obtain sex from reluctant actresses, and if the case against him proved his culpability, then his imprisonment is justified.

Certainly I feel great sorrow for his victims and great revulsion for this man who further besmirches the reputation of other members of his shared gender.

What grabs my attention here is Weinstein’s use of his cellphone in court and Judge Burke’s reaction to this.

Weinstein on trial for sexual assault cannot resist his phone addiction long enough to respect the rules of the courtroom deciding his fate.

Burke’s reaction, though strong, is a reaction I can relate to, for phone addiction is something that enrages me as well (though rarely do I speak of it at the time I encounter it).

Cell Phone addiction - Medvisit

Weinstein’s use of his phone during his trial despite the prohibition from having one in the courtroom shows a man addicted.

Burke’s reaction says to me that he was thinking that Weinstein’s need to use his phone was more important to him than the reason why Burke was presiding over a courtroom to decide the mogul’s fate.

And frankly Weinstein’s attitude was insulting.

Pin on Natasha's Wedding

I have sat with friends and family who will spend more time on their phones than devote attention to the conversation in session.

I know they mean me no disrespect, but frankly there are moments I feel insulted.

In moments like these my self-respect asks:

Am I not important enough for your full attention?

Cell Phone Addiction Is Real, As These Hilarious Pics Show

I see the phone addicts congregate in buses and trains.

Certainly we could argue that regular commuters have seen their routes before, so why look up from their phones?

Young Girl Uses A Mobile Phone In The City Bus. Technology Cell.. Stock  Photo, Picture And Royalty Free Image. Image 88769349.

But it has been my experience that everything is in a state of constant flux much in the manner that you cannot step in the same river twice.

30 Very Funny Photos That Highlight Our Ridiculous Cell Phone Addiction –  Sara Newz

Every journey to and from St. Gallen, a journey that I have made hundreds of times in the past decade, is a familiar one.

And yet, without exception, each time that I consciously decide to pay attention to what is rolling past my wagon window I see something different, something remarkable.

Unusual animals, unusual people, unusual weather.

Beauty in the commonplace and the realization that there is nothing common about a place if one is observant.

S-Bahn St. Gallen - Wikiwand

As Sherlock Holmes once said to his faithful friend Dr. Watson:

You see, but you do not observe.

Don't just see; observe: What Sherlock Holmes can teach us about mindful  decisions - Big Think

Above: Dr. John Watson and Sherlock Holmes

I find myself quietly furious when I walk in the wilderness and see folks using their phones, eyes cast down to screens, blind to the beauty that surrounds them.

It is their right to use their phones as they choose, when they choose, and how they choose to use them.

But you can love people and still hate the choices they make.

27 Funny But Thought-Provoking Images Of How Smartphones Have Taken Over  Our Lives

I accept that many people use their phones as digital cameras.

But the need of so many to document every moment of their lives with photos of themselves makes me weary.

Vain people are insufferable enough as they are without our being constantly exposed to their smug faces every time they decide to post something on social media.

I understand how important communication with the outside world is, but is it really necessary to be online every moment of our lives?

Must we always be “connected“?

Cell phone addiction - Imgflip

You walked into the party like you were walking onto a yacht.
Your hat strategically dipped below one eye.
Your scarf, it was apricot.
You had one eye in the mirror as you watched yourself gavotte.
And all the girls dreamed that they’d be your partner.
They’d be your partner and

You’re so vain.
You probably think this song is about you
.

You’re so vain (you’re so vain).
I bet you think this song is about you.
Don’t you? Don’t you?

You had me several years ago when I was still quite naive.
Well, you said that we made such a pretty pair and that you would never leave.
But you gave away the things you loved
And one of them was me.
I had some dreams, they were clouds in my coffee, clouds in my coffee, and
You’re so vain
.

You probably think this song is about you.
You’re so vain, (you’re so vain)
.

I bet you think this song is about you.
Don’t you? Don’t you? Don’t you?
I had some dreams, they were clouds in my coffee, clouds in my coffee, and

You’re so vain.
You probably think this song is about you.

You’re so vain (you’re so vain)
I bet you think this song is about you.
Don’t you? Don’t you?

Well, I hear you went up to Saratoga
And your horse naturally won.
Then you flew your Lear Jet up to Nova Scotia.
To see the total eclipse of the sun
.

Well, you’re where you should be all the time
And when you’re not, you’re with some underworld spy
Or the wife of a close friend, wife of a close friend, and

You’re so vain.
You probably think this song is about you.
You’re so vain (so vain).
I bet you think this song is about you.
Don’t you? Don’t you? Don’t you?

You’re so vain.
You probably think this song is about you.
You’re so vain.
Probably think this song about you.

Carly Simon – You're So Vain – PowerPop… An Eclectic Collection of Pop  Culture

While a smartphone, tablet, or computer can be a hugely productive tool, compulsive use of these devices can interfere with work, school, and relationships.

When you spend more time on social media or playing games than you do interacting with real people, or you can’t stop yourself from repeatedly checking texts, emails, or apps — even when it has negative consequences in your life — it may be time to reassess your technology use.

Smartphone addiction, sometimes colloquially known as “nomophobia” (fear of being without a mobile phone), is often fueled by an Internet overuse problem or Internet addiction disorder.

After all, it’s rarely the phone or tablet itself that creates the compulsion, but rather the games, apps and online worlds it connects us to.

Phoneless Phobia Infographics : nomophobia

Smartphone addiction can encompass a variety of impulse-control problems, including:

Virtual relationships

Addiction to social networking, dating apps, texting, and messaging can extend to the point where virtual, online friends become more important than real-life relationships.

We have all seen the couples sitting together in a restaurant ignoring each other and engaging with their smartphones instead.

While the Internet can be a great place to meet new people, reconnect with old friends, or even start romantic relationships, online relationships are not a healthy substitute for real-life interactions.

Online friendships can be appealing as they tend to exist in a bubble, not subject to the same demands or stresses as messy, real-world relationships.

Compulsive use of dating apps can change your focus to short-term hookups instead of developing long-term relationships.

Long Distance (Virtual) Relationships Get Real | VRROOM

Information overload

Compulsive web surfing, watching videos, playing games, or checking news feeds can lead to lower productivity at work or school and isolate you for hours at a time.

Compulsive use of the Internet and smartphone apps can cause you to neglect other aspects of your life, from real-world relationships to hobbies and social pursuits.

Save Yourself! 7 Ways to Prevent Information Overload

Cybersex addiction

Compulsive use of Internet pornography, sexting, nude-swapping, or adult messaging services can impact negatively on your real-life intimate relationships and overall emotional health.

While online pornography and cybersex addictions are types of sexual addiction, the Internet makes it more accessible, relatively anonymous, and very convenient.

It’s easy to spend hours engaging in fantasies impossible in real life.

Excessive use of dating apps that facilitate casual sex can make it more difficult to develop long-term intimate relationships or damage an existing relationship.

Cybersex Addiction | Singular Magazine

Online compulsions, such as gaming, gambling, stock trading, online shopping, or bidding on auction sites like eBay can often lead to financial and job-related problems.

While gambling addiction has been a well-documented problem for years, the availability of Internet gambling has made gambling far more accessible.

Compulsive stock trading or online shopping can be just as financially and socially damaging.

eBay addicts may wake up at strange hours in order to be online for the last remaining minutes of an auction.

You may purchase things you don’t need and can’t afford just to experience the excitement of placing the winning bid.

Net Compulsion- Gambling, Online Shopping, Gaming – Internet Addictions

While you can experience impulse-control problems with a laptop or desktop computer, the size and convenience of smartphones and tablets means that we can take them just about anywhere and gratify our compulsions at any time.

In fact, most of us are rarely ever more than five feet from our smartphones.

Like the use of drugs and alcohol, they can trigger the release of the brain chemical dopamine and alter your mood.

You can also rapidly build up tolerance so that it takes more and more time in front of these screens to derive the same pleasurable reward.

Caught in the Net – The Internet & Compulsion – Neuroanthropology

Heavy smartphone use can often be symptomatic of other underlying problems, such as stress, anxiety, depression or loneliness.

At the same time, it can also exacerbate these problems.

If you use your smartphone as a “security blanket” to relieve feelings of anxiety, loneliness, or awkwardness in social situations, for example, you will succeed only in cutting yourself off further from people around you.

Staring at your phone will deny you the face-to-face interactions that can help to meaningfully connect you to others, alleviate anxiety, and boost your mood.

In other words, the remedy you are choosing for your anxiety (engaging with your smartphone), is actually making your anxiety worse.

Internet Addiction — ChildSafeNet

Smartphone or Internet addiction can also negatively impact your life by:

Increasing loneliness and depression

While it may seem that losing yourself online will temporarily make feelings such as loneliness, depression, and boredom evaporate into thin air, it can actually make you feel even worse.

A 2014 study found a correlation between high social media usage and depression and anxiety.

Users, especially teens, tend to compare themselves unfavorably with their peers on social media, promoting feelings of loneliness and depression.

Net Compulsion- Gambling, Online Shopping, Gaming – Internet Addictions

Fueling anxiety

One researcher found that the mere presence of a phone in a work place tends to make people more anxious and perform poorly on given tasks.

The heavier a person’s phone use, the greater the anxiety they experienced.

Internet Addiction

Increasing stress

Using a smartphone for work often means work bleeds into your home and personal life.

You feel the pressure to always be on, never out of touch from work.

This need to continually check and respond to email can contribute to higher stress levels and even burnout.

Is Internet Addiction A Thing? : Shots - Health News : NPR

Exacerbating attention deficit disorders

The constant stream of messages and information from a smartphone can overwhelm the brain and make it impossible to focus attention on any one thing for more than a few minutes without feeling compelled to move on to something else.

Internet addiction, Fact of Fad? - Dianova

Diminishing your ability to concentrate and think deeply or creatively

The persistent buzz, ping or beep of your smartphone can distract you from important tasks, slow your work, and interrupt those quiet moments that are so crucial to creativity and problem solving.

Instead of ever being alone with our thoughts, we are now always online and connected.

wint on Twitter: "reasons the famous statue "The Thinker" is better than  selfys & cell phones: - It is a classic - It is for geniuses to look at -  It costs $0"

Disturbing your sleep

Excessive smartphone use can disrupt your sleep, which can have a serious impact on your overall mental health.

It can impact your memory, affect your ability to think clearly, and reduce your cognitive and learning skills.

Your Tablet and Smartphone Is Ruining Your Sleep

Encouraging self-absorption

A UK study found that people who spend a lot of time on social media are more likely to display negative personality traits such as narcissism.

Snapping endless selfies, posting all your thoughts or details about your life can create an unhealthy self-centeredness, distancing you from real-life relationships and making it harder to cope with stress.

Self-absorption Cartoons and Comics - funny pictures from CartoonStock

There is no specific amount of time spent on your phone, or the frequency you check for updates, or the number of messages you send or receive that indicates an addiction or overuse problem.

Spending a lot of time connected to your phone only becomes a problem when it absorbs so much of your time it causes you to neglect your face-to-face relationships, your work, school, hobbies, or other important things in your life.

If you find yourself ignoring friends over lunch to read Facebook updates or compulsively checking your phone in while driving or during school lectures, then it is time to reassess your smartphone use and strike a healthier balance in your life.

Self-absorption Cartoons and Comics - funny pictures from CartoonStock

Warning signs of smartphone or Internet overuse include:

Trouble completing tasks at work or home:

Do you find laundry piling up and little food in the house for dinner because you’ve been busy chatting online, texting, or playing video games?

Perhaps you find yourself working late more often because you can’t complete your work on time.

Why Parents Really Need to Put Down Their Phones | Psychology Today

Isolation from family and friends:

Is your social life suffering because of all the time you spend on your phone or other device?

If you’re in a meeting or chatting with friends, do you lose track of what’s being said because you’re checking your phone?

Have friends and family expressed concern about the amount of time you spend on your phone?

Do you feel like no one in your “real” life—even your spouse—understands you like your online friends?

Flickering charm of cell phone isolation - a modern plague |  IrishCentral.com

Concealing your smartphone use:

Do you sneak off to a quiet place to use your phone?

Do you hide your smartphone use or lie to your boss and family about the amount of time you spend online?

Do you get irritated or cranky if your online time is interrupted?

Best places to hide your phone!!! | Zach Tahtinen - YouTube

Having a “fear of missing out” (or FOMO):

Do you hate to feel out of the loop or think you’re missing out on important news or information if you don’t check you phone regularly?

Do you need to compulsively check social media because you are anxious that others are having a better time, or leading a more exciting life than you?

Do you get up at night to check your phone?

FOMO - Fear of Missing Out: Know the Frenemy + 6 Effective to Master it -  Dolly Green

Feeling of dread, anxiety, or panic if you leave your smartphone at home, the battery runs down or the operating system crashes.

Or do you feel phantom vibrations — you think your phone has vibrated but when you check, there are no new messages or updates?

Phantom Phone Vibrations: So Common They've Changed Our Brains? : All Tech  Considered : NPR

A common warning sign of smartphone or Internet addiction is experiencing withdrawal symptoms when you try to cut back on your smartphone use.

These may include:

  • Restlessness
  • Anger or irritability
  • Difficulty concentrating
  • Sleep problems
  • Craving access to your smartphone or other device

Smartphone Addiction - Signs and Symptoms of Cell Phone Addiction |  LifeInSight – Mental Health Research Non-Profit

There are a number of steps you can take to get your smartphone and Internet use under control.

While you can initiate many of these measures yourself, an addiction is hard to beat on your own, especially when temptation is always within easy reach.

It can be all too easy to slip back into old patterns of usage.

Look for outside support, whether it is from family, friends, or a professional therapist.

To help you identify your problem areas, keep a log of when and how much you use your smartphone for non-work or non-essential activities.

There are specific apps that can help with this, enabling you to track the time you spend on your phone.

Are there times of day that you use your phone more?

Are there other things you could be doing instead?

The more you understand your smartphone use, the easier it will be to curb your habits and regain control of your time.

Free Yourself From Your Cell Phone Addiction – the wellness guide blog

Recognize the triggers that make you reach for your phone

Is it when you’re lonely or bored?

If you are struggling with depression, stress, or anxiety, for example, your excessive smartphone use might be a way to self-soothe rocky moods.

Instead, find healthier and more effective ways of managing your moods, such as practicing relaxation techniques.

The problem with phone addiction is we think it's not a problem | Hacker  Noon

Understand the difference between interacting in-person and online

Human beings are social creatures.

We are not meant to be isolated or to rely on technology for human interaction.

Socially interacting with another person face-to-face — making eye contact, responding to body language —can make you feel calm, safe, and understood, and quickly put the brakes on stress.

Interacting through text, email or messaging bypasses these nonverbal cues so won’t have the same effect on your emotional well-being.

Besides, online friends can’t hug you when a crisis hits, visit you when you’re sick, or celebrate a happy occasion with you.

How to give-up your cellphone addiction - letsthinkeasy.com

Build your coping skills

Perhaps tweeting, texting or blogging is your way of coping with stress or anger.

Or maybe you have trouble relating to others and find it easier to communicate with people online.

Building skills in these areas will help you weather the stresses and strains of daily life without relying on your smartphone.

Mobile Internet Anonymous: Cell Phone Addiction-A View from The Other Side

Recognize any underlying problems that may support your compulsive behavior

Have you had problems with alcohol or drugs in the past?

Does anything about your smartphone use remind you of how you used to drink or use drugs to numb or distract yourself?

Strengthen your support network

Set aside dedicated time each week for friends and family.

If you are shy, there are ways to overcome social awkwardness and make lasting friends without relying on social media or the Internet.

To find people with similar interests, try reaching out to colleagues at work, joining a sports team or book club, enrolling in an education class, or volunteering for a good cause.

You will be able to interact with others like you, let relationships develop naturally, and form friendships that will enhance your life and strengthen your health.

Cell phone Addiction

For most people, getting control over their smartphone and Internet use isn’t a case of quitting cold turkey.

Think of it more like going on a diet.

Just as you still need to eat, you probably still need to use your phone for work, school, or to stay in touch with friends.

Your goal should be to cut back to more healthy levels of use.

Set goals for when you can use your smartphone

For example, you might schedule use for certain times of day, or you could reward yourself with a certain amount of time on your phone once you’ve completed a homework assignment or finished a chore, for instance.

The Epidemic of Mobile Addiction: Signs, Symptoms, and Stats | by Justin  Baker | Mission.org | Medium

Turn off your phone at certain times of the day, such as when you’re driving, in a meeting, at the gym, having dinner, or playing with your kids.

Don’t take your phone with you to the bathroom.

How to Get Control over Your Cell Phone Addiction

Don’t bring your phone or tablet to bed:

The blue light emitted by the screens can disrupt your sleep if used within two hours of bedtime.

Turn devices off and leave them in another room overnight to charge.

Instead of reading eBooks on your phone or tablet at night, pick up a book.

You’ll not only sleep better but research shows you’ll also remember more of what you’ve read.

10 tips to help you beat smartphone addiction | Greenbot

Replace your smartphone use with healthier activities

If you are bored and lonely, resisting the urge to use your smartphone can be very difficult.

Have a plan for other ways to fill the time, such as meditating, reading a book, or chatting with friends in person.

DIGITAL FASTING:EFFECT OF DIGITAL FASTING

Play the “phone stack” game

Spending time with other smartphone addicts?

Play the “phone stack” game.

When you are having lunch, dinner, or drinks together, have everyone place their smartphones face down on the table.

Even as the phones buzz and beep, no one is allowed to grab their device.

If someone can’t resist checking their phone, that person has to pick up the check for everyone.

The Phone Stacking Game: Let's Make This A Thing | TechCrunch

Remove social media apps from your phone so you can only check Facebook, Twitter and the like from your computer.

And remember:

What you see of others on social media is rarely an accurate reflection of their lives — people exaggerate the positive aspects of their lives, brushing over the doubts and disappointments that we all experience.

Spending less time comparing yourself unfavorably to these stylized representations can help to boost your mood and sense of self-worth.

How to delete apps from your iPhone or iPad | Macworld

Limit checks. 

If you compulsively check your phone every few minutes, wean yourself off by limiting your checks to once every 15 minutes.

Then once every 30 minutes, then once an hour.

If you need help, there are apps that can automatically limit when you are able to access your phone.

How to Use Screen Time and App Limits in iOS 12 To Reduce Distractions

Curb your fear of missing out. 

Accept that by limiting your smartphone use, you are likely going to miss out on certain invitations, breaking news, or new gossip.

There is so much information available on the Internet, it is almost impossible to stay on top of everything, anyway.

Accepting this can be liberating and help break your reliance on technology.

Using the Fear of Missing Out Ethically for Marketers | 60 Second Marketer  @AskJamieTurner

Look Up

I have 422 friends, yet I am lonely.
I speak to all of them everyday, yet none of them really know me.

The problem I have sits in the spaces between,
Looking into their eyes or at a name on a screen.

I took a step back and opened my eyes,
I looked around and then realised
That this media we call “social” is anything but
When we open our computers, it’s our doors we shut.

All this technology we have, it’s just an illusion,
Of community, companionship, a sense of inclusion
Yet when you step away from this device of delusion,
You awaken to see a world of confusion.

A world where we’re slaves to the technology we mastered,
Where our information gets sold by some rich greedy bastard.
A world of self-interest, self-image, self-promotion,
Where we share all our best bits, but leave out the emotion.

We are at our most happy with an experience we share,
But is it the same if no one is there?
Be there for your friends and they’ll be there too,
But no one will be if a group message will do.

We edit and exaggerate, we crave adulation,
We pretend we don’t notice the social isolation.
We put our words into order until our lives are glistening,
We don’t even know if anyone is listening.

Being alone isn’t the problem, let me just emphasize,
That if you read a book, paint a picture, or do some exercise,
You are being productive and present, not reserved or recluse,
You’re being awake and attentive, putting your time to good use.

So when you’re in public and you start to feel alone,
Put your hands behind your head and step away from the phone.
You don’t need to stare at your menu or at your contact list,
Just talk to one another and learn to co-exist.

I can’t stand to hear the silence of a busy commuter train,
When no one wants to talk through the fear of looking insane.
We’re becoming unsocial, it no longer satisfies
To engage with one another and look into someone’s eyes.

We’re surrounded by children, who since they were born,
Watch us living like robots, and think it’s the norm.
It’s not very likely you will make world’s greatest dad,
If you can’t entertain a child without using an iPad.

When I was a child, I would never be home,
I’d be out with my friends, on our bikes we would roam.
We’d wear holes in our trainers and graze up our knees.
We’d build our own clubhouse, high up in the trees.

Now the parks are so quiet, it gives me a chill
To see no children outside and the swings hanging still.
There’s no skipping or hopscotch, no church and no steeple,
We’re a generation of idiots, smart phones and dumb people.

So look up from your phone, shut down that display,
Take in your surroundings, and make the most of today.
Just one real connection is all it can take,
To show you the difference that being there can make.

Be there in the moment when she gives you the look,
That you remember forever as when love overtook.
The time you first hold her hand or first kiss her lips,
The time you first disagree but still love her to bits.

The time you don’t need to tell hundreds about what you’ve just done,
Because you want to share the moment with just this one.
The time you sell your computer so you can buy a ring,
For the girl of your dreams who is now the real thing.

The time you want to start a family and the moment when
You first hold your baby girl and get to fall in love again.
The time she keeps you up at night and all you want is rest,
And the time you wipe away the tears as your baby flees the nest.

The time your little girl returns with a boy for you to hold,
And the day he calls you granddad and makes you feel real old
The time you take in all you’ve made, just by giving life attention,
And how you’re glad you didn’t waste it by looking down at some invention.

The time you hold your wife’s hand and sit down beside her bed
You tell her that you love her and lay a kiss upon her head.
She then whispers to you quietly, as her heart gives a final beat,
That she’s lucky she got stopped by that lost boy in the street.

But none of these times ever happened, you never had any of this,
When you’re too busy looking down, you don’t see the chances you miss.

So look up from your phone, shut down those displays,
We have a finite existence, a set number of days.
Why waste all our time getting caught in the net,

When the end comes, nothing’s worse than regret.

I am guilty too of being part of this machine,
This digital world where we are heard but not seen.
Where we type and don’t talk, where we read as we chat,
Where we spend hours together without making eye contact.

Don’t give into a life where you follow the hype,
Give people your love, don’t give them your “like”.
Disconnect from the need to be heard and defined.
Go out into the world, leave distractions behind.

Look up from your phone, shut down that display,
Stop reading this screen, live life the real way.

Look Up by Gary Turk with English subtitle [HD] - YouTube

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Brendan Pierson, “Judge rejects lawyer’s accusation of bias“, Kingston Whig-Standard, 10 January 2020 / Gary Turk, “Look Up

Canada Slim and the Edge of Nothing

Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland, Saturday, 22 August 2020

I believe in evolution.

But I also believe, when I hike the Grand Canyon and see it at sunset, that the hand of God is there also.

John McCain

 

 

Canyon River Tree (165872763).jpeg

 

 

The Grand Canyon (Hopi: Ongtupqa, Yavapai: Wi:kaʼi:la, Navajo: Bidááʼ Haʼaztʼiʼ Tsékooh, Spanish: Gran Cañón) is a steep-sided canyon carved by the Colorado River in Arizona.

The Grand Canyon is 277 miles (446 km) long, up to 18 miles (29 km) wide and attains a depth of over a mile (6,093 feet or 1,857 meters).

The canyon and adjacent rim are contained within Grand Canyon National Park, the Kaibab National Forest, Grand Canyon–Parashant National Monument, the Hualapai Indian Reservation, the Havasupai Indian Reservation and the Navajo Nation.

 

 

 

 

President Theodore Roosevelt was a major proponent of preservation of the Grand Canyon area and visited it on numerous occasions to hunt and enjoy the scenery.

 

 

President Roosevelt - Pach Bros.jpg

Above: Theodore Roosevelt Jr. (1858 – 1919)

 

 

You ever been to the Grand Canyon?

It’s pretty, but that’s not the thing of it.

You can sit on the edge of that big ol’ thing and those rocks….

The cliffs and rocks are so old….

It took so long for that thing to get like that….

And it ain’t done either!

It happens right there while you’re watching it.

It’s happening right now as we are sitting here in this ugly town.

When you sit on the edge of that thing, you realize what a joke we people really are….

What big heads we have thinking that what we do is gonna matter all that much….

Thinking that our time means didly to those rocks.

Just a split second we have been here, the whole lot of us.

That’s a piece of time so small to even get a name.

Those rocks are laughing at me now, me and my worries….

Yeah, its real humorous, that Grand Canyon.

It’s laughing at me right now.”

Simon (Danny Glover), Grand Canyon (1991 film)

 

Grand canyon poster.jpg

 

 

Nearly two billion years of Earth’s geological history have been exposed as the Colorado River and its tributaries cut their channels through layer after layer of rock while the Colorado Plateau was uplifted.

While some aspects about the history of incision of the canyon are debated by geologists, several recent studies support the hypothesis that the Colorado River established its course through the area about five to six million years ago.

Since that time, the Colorado River has driven the down-cutting of the tributaries and retreat of the cliffs, simultaneously deepening and widening the canyon.

 

For thousands of years, the area has been continuously inhabited by Native Americans, who built settlements within the canyon and its many caves.

The Pueblo people considered the Grand Canyon a holy site, and made pilgrimages to it.

 

 

 

The wonders of the Grand Canyon cannot be adequately represented in symbols of speech, nor by speech itself.

The resources of the graphic art are taxed beyond their powers in attempting to portray its features.

Language and illustration combined must fail.

John Wesley Powell

 

 

John Wesley Powell.jpg

Above: Painting of John Wesley Powell (1834 – 1902)

 

 

The first European known to have viewed the Grand Canyon was García López de Cárdenas from Spain, who arrived in 1540.

In September 1540, under orders from the conquistador Francisco Vázquez de Coronado to search for the fabled Seven Cities of Cibola,

Captain García López de Cárdenas, along with Hopi guides and a small group of Spanish soldiers, traveled to the south rim of the Grand Canyon between Desert View and Moran Point.

Pablo de Melgrossa, Juan Galeras, and a third soldier descended some one third of the way into the canyon until they were forced to return because of lack of water.

In their report, they noted that some of the rocks in the canyon were “bigger than the great tower of Seville, Giralda“.

It is speculated that their Hopi guides likely knew routes to the canyon floor, but may have been reluctant to lead the Spanish to the river.

 

 

La conquista del Colorado.jpg

 

 

No Europeans visited the canyon again for more than two hundred years.

 

Fathers Francisco Atanasio Domínguez and Silvestre Vélez de Escalante were two Spanish priests who, with a group of Spanish soldiers, explored southern Utah and traveled along the north rim of the canyon in Glen and Marble Canyons in search of a route from Santa Fe to California in 1776.

They eventually found a crossing, formerly known as the “Crossing of the Fathers“, that today lies under Lake Powell.

 

 

 

 

Also in 1776, Fray Francisco Garces, a Franciscan missionary, spent a week near Havasupai, unsuccessfully attempting to convert a band of Native Americans to Christianity.

He described the canyon as “profound“.

 

 

 

 

James Ohio Pattie, along with a group of American trappers and mountain men, may have been the next European to reach the canyon, in 1826.

 

Jacob Hamblin, a Mormon missionary, was sent by Brigham Young in the 1850s to locate suitable river crossing sites in the canyon.

Building good relations with local Hualapai and white settlers, he found the Crossing of the Fathers, and the locations that would become Lees Ferry in 1858 and Pearce Ferry (later operated by, and named for, Harrison Pearce) – only the latter two sites suitable for ferry operation.

He also acted as an advisor to John Wesley Powell, before his second expedition to the Grand Canyon, serving as a diplomat between Powell and the local native tribes to ensure the safety of his party.

 

 

Jacobhamblin.jpg

Above: Jacob Hamlin (1819 – 1886)

 

 

In 1857, Edward Fitzgerald Beale was superintendent of an expedition to survey a wagon road along the 35th parallel from Fort Defiance, Arizona to the Colorado River.

He led a small party of men in search of water on the Coconino Plateau near the canyon’s south rim.

 

 

EFBeale.jpg

 

 

On 19 September, near present-day National Canyon, they came upon what May Humphreys Stacey described in his journal as:

…a wonderful canyon four thousand feet deep.

Everyone in the party admitted that he never before saw anything to match or equal this astonishing natural curiosity.

 

 

 

 

Also in 1857, the US War Department asked Lieutenant Joseph Ives to lead an expedition to assess the feasibility of an up-river navigation from the Gulf of California.

Also in a stern wheeler steamboat Explorer, after two months and 350 miles (560 km) of difficult navigation, his party reached Black Canyon some two months after George Johnson.

The Explorer struck a rock and was abandoned.

Ives led his party east into the canyon — they may have been the first Europeans to travel the Diamond Creek drainage and traveled eastwards along the south rim.

In his “Colorado River of the West” report to the Senate in 1861 he states that:

One or two trappers profess to have seen the canyon.

 

 

 

 

According to the San Francisco Herald, in a series of articles run in 1853, Captain Joseph R. Walker in January 1851 with his nephew James T. Walker and six men, travelled up the Colorado River to a point where it joined the Virgin River and continued east into Arizona, traveling along the Grand Canyon and making short exploratory side trips along the way.

Walker is reported to have said he wanted to visit the “Moqui” Indians, as the Hopi were then called by Europeans.

He had met these people briefly in previous years, thought them exceptionally interesting and wanted to become better acquainted.

The Herald reporter then stated:”

We believe that Captain Joe Walker is the only white man in this country that has ever visited this strange people.

 

 

 

 

In 1858, John Strong Newberry became probably the first geologist to visit the Grand Canyon.

 

John Strong Newberry.jpg

Above: John Strong Newberry (1822 – 1892)

 

 

In 1869, Major John Wesley Powell led the first expedition down the canyon.

Powell set out to explore the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon.

Powell ordered a shipwright to build four reinforced Whitewall rowboats from Chicago and had them shipped east on the newly completed Continental railroad.

He hired nine men, including his brother Walter, and collected provisions for ten months.

They set out from Green River, Wyoming on 24 May.

Passing through (or portaging around) a series of dangerous rapids, the group passed down the Green River to its confluence with the Colorado River, near present-day Moab, Utah.

Most of their food spoiled after getting wet in the waves or by heavy rains.

Beaten up by ferocious whitewater and nearly out of food, three men left the expedition in the Grand Canyon, electing to walk 75 miles (121 km) out across a desert to a Mormon settlement.

Never seen again, their disappearance remains one of the most enduring mysteries of American western history.

The remaining members completed the journey through the Grand Canyon on 13 August 1869.

In 1871 Powell first used the term “Grand Canyon“.

Previously it had been called the “Big Canyon“.

 

 

 

 

In 1889, Frank M. Brown wanted to build a railroad along the Colorado River to carry coal.

He, his chief engineer Robert Brewster Stanton, and 14 others started to explore the Grand Canyon in poorly designed cedar wood boats, with no life preservers.

Brown drowned in an accident near Marble Canyon, while Stanton made new boats and proceeded to explore the Colorado all the way to the Gulf of California.

 

 

 

 

The Grand Canyon became an official national monument in 1908 and a national park in 1919.

 

 

 

 

It is like trying to describe what you feel when you are standing on the rim of the Grand Canyon or remembering your first love or the birth of your child.

You have to be there to really know what it is like.

Jack Schmitt

 

 

 

 

There are approximately 1,737 known species of vascular plants, 167 species of fungi, 64 species of moss and 195 species of lichen found in Grand Canyon National Park.

This variety is largely due to the 8,000 foot (2,400 m) elevation change from the Colorado River up to the highest point on the North Rim.

Grand Canyon boasts a dozen endemic plants (known only within the Park’s boundaries) while only 10% of the Park’s flora is exotic.

Sixty-three plants found here have been given special status by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

Of the 90 mammal species found along the Colorado River corridor, 18 are rodents and 22 are bats.

 

 

 

 

The Park contains several major ecosystems.

Its great biological diversity can be attributed to the presence of five of the seven life zones and three of the four desert types in North America.

The five life zones represented are the Lower Sonoran, Upper Sonoran, Transition, Canadian, and Hudsonian.

This is equivalent to traveling from Mexico to Canada.

Differences in elevation and the resulting variations in climate are the major factors that form the various life zones and communities in and around the canyon.

Grand Canyon National Park contains 129 vegetation communities, and the composition and distribution of plant species is influenced by climate, geomorphology and geology.

 

 

 

Baseball, it is said, is only a game.

True.

And the Grand Canyon is only a hole in Arizona.

George Will, Baseball Almanac

 

Die Gesteinsschichten im Grand Canyon wurden vom Colorado River freigelegt.

 

 

Grand Canyon National Park is one of the world’s premier natural attractions, attracting about five million visitors per year.

Overall, 83% were from the United States.

17% of visitors were from outside the United States – the most prominently represented nations were Brits (3%), Canadians (4%),  Japanese (2%), Germans (2%) and the Netherlands (1%).

The South Rim is open all year round weather permitting.

The North Rim is generally open mid-May to mid-October.

 

 

 

 

Aside from casual sightseeing from the South Rim (averaging 7,000 feet [2,100 m] above sea level), rafting, hiking, running, and helicopter tours are popular.

The Grand Canyon Ultra Marathon is a 78-mile (126 km) race over 24 hours.

 

 

10 Things I Learned From My First 24-Hour Timed Ultra | The ...

 

 

The floor of the valley is accessible by foot, muleback, or by boat or raft from upriver.

Hiking down to the river and back up to the rim in one day is discouraged by park officials because of the distance, steep and rocky trails, change in elevation, and danger of heat exhaustion from the much higher temperatures at the bottom.

Rescues are required annually of unsuccessful rim-to-river-to-rim travelers.

Nevertheless, hundreds of fit and experienced hikers complete the trip every year.

 

 

Hiker Mistakes that Can Ruin your Grand Canyon Vacation… or Worse

 

 

Camping on the North and South rims is generally restricted to established campgrounds and reservations are highly recommended, especially at the busier South Rim.

There is at large camping available along many parts of the North Rim managed by Kaibab National Forest.

North Rim campsites are only open seasonally due to road closures from weather and winter snowpack.

 

 

 

 

All overnight camping below the rim requires a backcountry permit from the Backcountry Office (BCO).

Each year Grand Canyon National Park receives approximately 30,000 requests for backcountry permits.

The park issues 13,000 permits, and close to 40,000 people camp overnight.

The earliest a permit application is accepted is the first of the month, four months before the proposed start month.

 

 

Old style "Grand Canyon National Park" logo with full color design ...

 

 

Tourists wishing for a more vertical perspective can go skydiving, board helicopters and small airplanes in Boulder, Las Vegas, Phoenix and Grand Canyon National Park Airport (seven miles from the South Rim) for canyon flyovers.

Scenic flights are no longer allowed to fly within 1,500 feet (460 m) of the rim within the national park because of a late 1990s crash.

The last aerial video footage from below the rim was filmed in 1984.

However, some helicopter flights land on the Havasupai and Hualapai Indian Reservations within Grand Canyon (outside of the park boundaries).

 

 

Grand Canyon Helikopterflüge - Wie buche ich am günstigsten?

 

 

In 2007, the Hualapai Tribe opened the glass-bottomed Grand Canyon Skywalk on their property, Grand Canyon West.

The Skywalk is about 250 miles (400 km) by road from Grand Canyon Village at the South Rim.

The skywalk has attracted “thousands of visitors a year, most from Las Vegas“.

 

 

Visit the Grand Canyon - Grand Canyon West

 

 

In 2016, skydiving at the Grand Canyon become possible with the first Grand Canyon skydiving operation opening up at the Grand Canyon National Park Airport, on the South Rim.

 

 

Skydive the Grand Canyon The First & Only Place You Can Skydive ...

 

 

In 2014, a developer announced plans to build a multimedia complex on the canyon’s rim called the Grand Canyon Escalade.

On 420 acres (170 ha) there would be shops, an IMAX theater, hotels and an RV park.

A gondola would enable easy visits to the canyon floor where a “riverwalk” of “connected walkways, an eatery, a tramway station, a seating area and a wastewater package plant” would be situated.

 

 

Damn The Tram! Outrageous Grand Canyon Project On Track | GearJunkie

 

 

Navajo Nation President Ben Shelly has indicated agreement – the tribe would have to invest $65 million for road, water and communication facilities for the $1 billion complex.

One of the developers is Navajo and has cited an 8% – 18% share of the gross revenue for the tribe as an incentive.

 

 

Flag of Navajo Nation

Above: Flag of the Navajo Nation

 

 

Lipan Point is a promontory located on the South Rim.

This point is located to the east of the Grand Canyon Village along the Desert View Drive.

There is a parking lot for visitors to Lipan Point.

The trailhead to the Tanner Trail is located just before the parking lot.

The view from Lipan Point shows a wide array of rock strata and the Unkar Delta area in the inner canyon.

 

 

Lipan Point | Grand Canyon South Rim

 

 

About 770 deaths have occurred between the mid 1800s and 2015.

Of the fatalities that occurred from 1869 to 2001:

  • 53 resulted from falls
  • 65 were attributable to environmental causes, including heat stroke, cardiac arrest, dehydration, and hypothermia
  • Seven were caught in flash floods
  • 79 were drowned in the Colorado River
  • 242 perished in airplane and helicopter crashes (128 of them in the 1956 disaster mentioned below)
  • 25 died in freak errors and accidents, including lightning strikes and rock falls
  • 23 were the victims of homicides.

 

In 1956, the Grand Canyon was the site of the deadliest commercial aviation disaster in history at the time.

On the morning of 30 June 1956, a TWA Lockheed Super Constellation and a United Airlines Douglas DC-7 departed Los Angeles International Airport within three minutes of one another on eastbound transcontinental flights.

Approximately 90 minutes later, the two propeller-driven airliners collided above the canyon while both were flying in unmonitored airspace.

The wreckage of both planes fell into the eastern portion of the canyon, on Temple and Chuar Buttes, near the confluence of the Colorado and Little Colorado rivers.

The disaster killed all 128 passengers and crew members aboard both planes.

This accident led to the institution of high-altitude airways and direct radar observation of aircraft (known as positive control) by en route ground controllers.

 

 

When these two planes collided over the Grand Canyon, it changed ...

 

 

In Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon, Thomas M. Myers, a journalist and author, documents every death in the Grand Canyon.

 

 

Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon: Michael P. Ghiglieri, Thomas ...

 

 

Friday 29 May 2020, Flims, Canton Graubünden, Switzerland

Spring break, if old married couples are allowed to usurp that title, was this year for me and the wife in the region of Flims, for our first walking holiday of 2020.

The day previous (28 May), after driving a few hours south from Landschlacht (our place of residence)(Canada Slim and the Love of Landscape) to Werdenburg (Canada Slim and the Castle of Happiness) we followed our Google Maps program to Flims via Chur, Graubünden’s cantonal capital.

 

 

Chur, looking upstream, to the west

Above: Chur

 

 

(I briefly mention here that Chur has much worthy to see and do:

  • the Altstadt (old city)

 

 

  • the Bündner Kunstmuseum (Graubünden Art Museum)

 

 

 

  • the Rätisches Museum (the Romansch Cultural Museum)

 

Rätisches Museum – Wikipedia

 

 

  • the Cathedral

 

Kathedrale St. Mariä Himmelfahrt (Chur) - Wikiwand

 

 

  • St. Martin’s Church….

 

Martinskirche (Chur) – Wikipedia

 

 

  • ….and, at least for us, most interesting of all, the Giger Bar….

 

 

 

….but my main focus in this post is the title feature, the Grand Canyon of Switzerland.

 

 

 

 

I hope to expound more eloquently in two separate blogposts, at another time, on Chur and the places in Switzerland that honour H.R. Giger.

 

 

HR Giger 2012.jpg

Above: H.R. Giger

 

 

Hans Ruedi Giger (1940 – 2014) was a Swiss artist best known for his airbrush images of humans and machines connected in cold biomechanical relationships.

Giger later abandoned airbrush for pastels, markers and ink.

He was part of the special effects team that won an Academy Award for the visual design of Ridley Scott’s 1979 sci-fi horror film Alien.

 

 

A large egg-shaped object that is cracked and emits a yellow-ish light hovers in mid-air against a black background and above a waffle-like floor. The title "ALIEN" appears in block letters above the egg, and just below it, the tagline appears in smaller type: "In space no one can hear you scream."

 

 

His work is on permanent display at the H.R. Giger Museum in Gruyères.

 

 

 

 

His style has been adapted to many forms of media, including record album covers, furniture and tattoos.

 

 

To Mega Therion - Celtic Frost.jpg

 

 

Giger Bar is a bar themed and modelled by the Swiss artist H. R. Giger.

 

There are two Giger Bars:

 

  • the H.R. Giger Bar in Chur, which opened in 1992

 

HR Giger | Chur Tourism - The Swiss Alpine City, Graubünden

 

 

  • the Museum HR Giger Bar, located in Château St. Germain, Gruyères, Switzerland, which opened on 12 April 2003.

 

HRGiger.com - Museum Bar

 

 

The wife and I have been to both Giger Bars – a blogpost in and of itself.)

 

 

Attahk Magma.jpg

 

 

Flims is a historic town in the Surselva valley, yet not in the district of Surselva but in Imboden.

 

Flims Dorf under "Flimserstein"

 

 

Flims has several distinct areas/unofficial districts/neighborhoods – the most recognised being Flims Waldhaus and Fidaz, Fischeisch is a neighborhood at the top of Flims – the town tends to center around the base station in winter and the main street in summer.

 

 

Flims is also part of a 220 km² ski resort known as the ‘Alpenarena‘, the ‘Weisse Arena‘, Flims Laax Falera or just Laax.

The third of these names is the most descriptive, the resort links these three villages together, yet all three retain distinct identities.

From the Flims base station, lifts run to Plaun and Foppa.

 

 

Traditionally the economy of the town was based on agriculture, farmers would bring their fresh milk into town every week for villagers to buy, cutting the long grass in the meadows by hand.

Flims nowadays relies on skiing and tourism, with:

 

  • UNESCO World Heritage Site, the iconic Flimserstein….

 

Glarus Thrust Fault in Switzerland 2018.jpg

 

  • the aquamarine Lag la Cauma (Lake Cauma)

 

 

 

 

….and being the meeting point of Romansch and Germanic Swiss cultures and languages, Flims certainly has much to offer.

 

 

 

 

Flims is first mentioned in 765 as Fleme.

As late as the 1990s, Flims dairymen delivered their milk to a dairy store in town from which villagers collected their raw or pasteurized milk daily.

The location of the store is now used as a tourist information centre and milk is treated elsewhere.

The small, quiet village was traditionally a winter home for dairymen whose animals grazed on the lush green slopes of summer.

 

 

CH cow 2 cropped.jpg

 

 

Cabins reminiscent of Heidi still dot the hillsides and ski slopes of Weisse Arena.

 

Heidi (1937 film) poster.jpg

 

 

The dairymen’s winter homes are easily identified by their structure which includes stalls on ground level, home on upper level.

The style allowed for rising heat from the animals to help heat the home during bitter winter months.

In 1877, in the Belle Époque (1871 – 1914), the first hotel for recreation opened, the Park Hotel.

The hotel also took over Lake Caumasee and built swimming baths.

 

Hotel Waldhaus Flims (Schweiz Flims) - Booking.com

 

 

In 1940, the first purpose built holiday homes were built.

Nowadays more than half of all flats and homes are being used for recreation purposes.

Ancient Flims has been populated since the Bronze Age.

The remains of a medieval castle (Burg Belmont) can be reached by foot from the end of the public road at Fidaz within 40 minutes.

 

 

Belmont Burghügel.jpg

 

 

There is a significant difference in mentality the North American expat will discover after any amount of time spent in Switzerland.

A North American will do whatever he wants until it is explicitly forbidden.

A Swiss won’t do anything until it is explicitly permitted.

 

 

Location of Switzerland (green) in Europe (green and dark grey)

 

 

After checking into Hotel Vorab….

 

 

 

We wandered the streets of Flims, making our way to one of the world’s finest hotels, the Waldhaus Flims, a five-star hotel on a slight rise above the town of Flims.

 

 

Waldhaus Flims Alpine Grand Hotel & Spa - Flims, Switzerland : The ...

 

 

The Waldhaus offers 333 beds in 150 guest rooms, 16 seminar/banquet/conference rooms and 6 restaurants, distributed across several buildings.

There are three main buildings.

The “Grand Hotel Waldhaus” building is a grand hotel, its architecture resonant of the confidence engendered by rapid economic expansion during the later 19th century, in a style described as “classical feudal” (“klassisch-feudal”).

 

 

Waldhaus Flims - A Wellness Resort & Spa in the Swiss Alps

 

 

The other principal buildings are the “rustic Grand Chalet Belmont“….

 

 

4*sup. Grand Chalet Belmont im Waldhaus Flims Mountain Resort ...

 

 

….and the “Villa Silvana“, in effect another small luxury hotel built in a “summer house” style.

 

 

Waldhaus Flims Alpine Grand Hotel & Spa - Villa Silvana (Flims ...

 

 

There is also a “Jugendstil (Art nouveau)” pavilion with a conference room, restaurants and bars.

 

 

Jugendstil-Pavillon-Waldhaus-Flims-11252019_170740 | Buendner ...

 

 

The Waldhaus complex is today the largest “hotel park” in Switzerland, with a total foot-print of 200,000 square meters, and around 24 separate building.

 

 

Waldhaus Flims 1877.jpg

 

 

Ute (the wife) wanted to see the Waldhaus from the outside.

I was determined to see the Hotel from the inside.

So, I boldly marched up to the Hotel’s reception and asked them whether they had any brochures of the Hotel that I could have.

My charm was answered by their grace and soon we had an English-language brochure in our hands.

 

 

 

 

There is one thing I keep noticing again and again as a visitor or guest in hotels.

The more stars a hotel has, the better the service, the more hospitable the staff is.

But this quality of person does not seem reflected in the quality of guest.

It is always assumed that the richer the guest, the more noble the actions of that guest.

But this is not what I have seen.

So often, too often, have I seen the wealthier than I treating staff absolutely abominably.

With a rudeness that is often shocking.

 

 

James Bone Casino Royale filmed at the Grand Hotel Pupp - Picture ...

 

 

Rarely do I toot my own horn nor suggest I have one iota of superiority to anyone, but I consider myself superior to the rude.

It is amazingly positive the reaction I get from the average working person when I treat them with the dignity I would wish for myself.

For example, I did not feel it was my due to get brochures from the staff of the Waldhaus, but I think they gladly printed out their brochure for me, not because they had any expectation whatsoever that I might one day return to book a room there, but because I treated them as my equal and viewed their courtesy as a privilege not a right.

 

 

Waldhaus Flims - A Wellness Resort & Spa in the Swiss Alps

 

 

The origins of the Waldhaus go back to the foundation in 1869 of the “Waldhaus-Flims cure and lake-bathing establishment” (“Kur- und Seebadanstalt Waldhaus Flims”).

Two businessmen from Chur, Peter-Jakob Bener-Caviezel and Paul Lorenz obtained a concession to build a spa centre.

60 shares, each of 5,000 Swiss francs, were offered for subscription, which was underwritten with a guarantee from the municipality.

The company was also guaranteed exclusive use of Lake Caumasee and provided with a large undeveloped knoll, covered with larch woods and pasture, located beyond the foresters’ huts on the edge of the village, for a price of 50 Rappen (half a Swiss Franc) per square meter.

 

 

Logo

 

 

By 1875, all the shares had been subscribed and building began.

A 120-bed hotel was built under the direction of a St.Gallen architectural firm called “Lorenz“.

The project also included construction of a sawmill, a post office with stable and refreshment facilities for horses and postmen, a laundry, a cow stall, a water supply from the Prausura Spring and a small bathing station by the lake.

 

 

Edelweiss Prau Sura, in Flims Waldhaus, Switzerland | Wander

 

 

The Spa Hotel (“Kurhaus”) was opened in 1877, with a fresh running water supply in the kitchen.

The entire site was criss-crossed by a network of walking trails which connected the nearby Tuffstein Spring and the “natural garden” (Rondell), or leading behind the Hotel Segnes to a viewing point taking in the rock cliffs.

Many of these walking trails would later be destroyed to make way for further building development.

Areas of the parkland, which had formerly been pasture, became forested now that they were no longer grazed.

The new facility was placed under the direction of Johann Guggenbühl, a hotel professional who had till that point been in charge of the Zürcherhof (hotel) in Zürich.

 

 

Hotel Waldhaus (Flims) - Wikiwand

 

 

Business was good.

 

In 1881 the “Villa Belmont” was built as an overspill annex for the main hotel, which increased the total number of beds from 120 to 200.

A spa doctor was recruited and the franchisee managing the cow stalls was encouraged to add ducks and chickens to his livestock operation.

Subsequently, a pig house, a horse stable and a new cow house with its own onsite dairy were added.

The clientele was international:

Russian, French, British, American, Austrian and Dutch guests often stayed in the spa hotel for several months at a time.

Swiss guests generally stayed for only a few weeks.

 

 

 

 

The island in the middle of Caumasee Lake was purchased in 1884.

 

 

 

 

In response to growth in demand for “luxury rooms“, the “Villa Silvana” was built, opening in 1889.

That was also the year in which an onsite generating station was constructed and the hotel gained an electricity supply, delivering what was described at the time as 60 “horsepower“, which made it the largest private power station in the canton.

At the same time the room rate was increased from 6.50 to 7.00 Swiss francs.

 

 

 

 

The Waldhaus lost its first director in 1892 when Johann Guggenbühl died following a short illness.

He was succeeded by his wife, who ran the business with her two daughters.

The Company Secretary, Joseph Zahnder, was permitted only to undertake the “greeting and valediction” duties with the guests.

 

 

Hotel Waldhaus Flims - Hoteltipp für ein Wellnesswochenende

 

 

For the stay in 1893 of the child Dutch Queen Wilhelmina with the Regent-Queen Mother, a room in the recently completed Villa Silvana had its walls lined with pine timber, and new furniture delivered.

 

 

Jacob Merkelbach, Afb 010164033306.jpg

Above: Queen Wilhelmina (1880 – 1962)

 

 

Secretary Zahnder got his turn at the top job in 1893 when Guggenbühl’s widow also died.

The hotel was now directed by Joseph Zahnder with the two Guggenbühl daughters.

 

 

Above: Villa Silvana, Hotel Waldhaus

 

 

In 1894 a new bakehouse was constructed along with a new timber fueled heating stove.

19th century developments were adumbrated with the creation of a “fitness centre” (the Freiluftbad), which incorporated a range of sports facilities and equipment, separated between those for women and those for men.

Instead of the conventional “table d’hôte” catering arrangements, guests were now able to pay extra and be served their personal choice of dishes at individual tables.

 

 

 

 

In 1895, traditional toilet facilities were replaced with modern WCs, which necessitated the construction of a reservoir.

Just a year later all three of the hotel blocks were equipped with piped hot water and baths.

 

 

Where To Stay In Flims | Waldhaus Flims Alpine Grand Hotel & Spa ...

 

 

In 1900, the adjacent “Curhaus Segnes” spa hotel (today the “Restaurant Pomodoro“) was acquired.

Continued growth of the Waldhaus hotel complex was overseen by the Walthers, the couple who were now directing the business.

 

In 1901, the hotel received its first tennis court and its own telephone, placed in a purpose built “kiosk” which was located a safe distance from the main buildings because there were fears of damage from a “short circuit“.

When, later in the century, the car park was extended the telephone kiosk was relocated to the lakeside.

Its subsequent fate and present location are unknown, however.

 

 

Above: Telephone kiosk, Hotel Waldhaus

 

 

In 1904, the Jugendstil (Art nouveau) “casino” was built as an entertainment venue.

All the buildings were now connected to one another with covered walkways (replaced in the 1970s by tunnels which provide more convincing weather protection).

By 1904, the spa complex offered more than 437 guest beds, and the enterprise was backed by 1.1 million Swiss francs of share capital.

The room rate was raised to 8.00 francs.

 

 

Above: Casino, Hotel Waldhaus, 1904

 

 

A triptych from Giovanni Giacometti entitled “The Flims Panorama” was commissioned by the hotel director in 1904 and presented to the hotel to celebrate the opening of the casino-pavilion.

However, on the occasion of the buildings’s first major restoration the tryptich was taken down it was subsequently hung in the pavilion’s entrance lobby for a period.

 

 

 

 

The next year, Eduard and Clara Bezzola, whose Romansch family name hints at their provenance on the other side of the canton took over at the Waldhaus from the Walthers.

 

 

 

 

In 1908, the former “Post Hotel” was integrated into the complex and renamed as the “Bellavista” (today the “China Restaurant“).

 

By 1910, the telephone had survived for ten years in its kiosk without inflicting damage, and the telephone connection was therefore extended to the main hotel building.

At this stage some of the rooms also received “en suite” bath facilities.

 

 

 

 

Topography has kept the railway away from Flims, but the hotel received its first summer season Postbus service in 1920.

The open topped charabanc, known as the “Car Alpin“, greatly improved guest access.

For winter season work a Postbus equipped with Caterpillar tracks (US-English: Continuous track) was introduced in 1926.

 

 

 

 

Within the hotel complex, additional “en suite” bath facilities and running water installations were added during the 1920s.

 

 

Hotelcard - Waldhaus Flims Wellness Resort - Flims, Switzerland

 

 

In 1923, after nearly half a century as the “Kur- und Seebadanstalt“, the operating company changed its name to “AG Kurhotels und Seebad“, while the hotel complex was now called “Park Hotels Waldhaus“.

Some of the canton’s conservative elements bitterly resisted the lifting of the ban on motor cars, grudgingly enacted in the mid 1920s.

 

 

 

 

Nevertheless, by the time the Waldhaus celebrated its 50th anniversary in 1927, car use was no longer restricted to doctors and ambulance drivers:

Many guests were arriving in private cars.

In the dining room, “table d’hôte” menues were abandoned.

 

 

Above: Hotel Waldhaus share, 1929

 

 

Switzerland received large numbers of political and economic migrants from Italy during the 1920s and 1930s, and at the Waldhaus Italian waiters replaced the locally recruited serving maids “Saaltöchter” who had hitherto served the meals.

Roman Bezzola was appointed a director of the hotel, although Eduard and Clara Bezzola remained in charge, as “General Directors“, till 1943.

 

 

 

 

Bookings plunged in 1936 to the lowest level since 1915 due to fears triggered by a polio epidemic that hit several Swiss cantons, including Graubünden, during the summer months.

The opportunity was taken to set out a new nine-hole golf course, although this only remained operational till 1941.

Roman and Elsa Bezzola took over in 1943.

 

 

Golfer swing.jpg

 

 

Switzerland was badly impacted by the war that had broken out in surrounding countries in 1939:

International tourists and food imports disappeared.

Open areas in the hotel grounds were given over to the cultivation of vegetables, wheat and potatoes.

A chicken and duck breeding programme was set up.

Military uniforms were seen in the hotel and military officers who appeared to fill the otherwise empty hotel complex were welcome guests.

After 70 years focused on summer business, in 1947, following extensive renovations, the Waldhaus opened for its first full winter season.

The decision was driven by the opening a couple of years earlier of the Flims Cable car and the first Foppa-Naruas chairlift up the mountainside, both from a base-station beside the Waldhaus complex.

 

 

Opening hours, day passes and season tickets | Flims Laax Falera

 

 

In 1948 the Waldhaus for the first time also opened for the off-peak “shoulder seasons” before and after the main winter season.

In the same year the former general director Eduard Bezzola died, following a long illness.

 

During the 1950s the former Kurhaus hotel developed as a less formal holiday-sport hotel, with mid-day buffet lunches and an increased focus on special celebrations in the “Tschaler” dance-bar, which also provided an important operating base for a growing number of ski instructors.

With improved roads and transport links there was an increase in short-stay overnight and weekend break visitors.

Following a succession of developments and redevelopments of kitchen, dining and dancing facilities, and of the cellar space, 1962 brought a more substantial rebuilding project when a wing was added to the Hotel Segnes, which now provided 120 beds.

At the same time the main hotel building received a new entrance hall and a new dining room extension.

 

 

 

 

In June 1967 a covered swimming pool was added and a new curling facility was installed.

 

During a subsequent renovation, in 1968 the hotel director of the time, Roman Bezzola, asked the Fine Arts Museum in Chur about the value of the Giacometti tryptich.

The Museum was dismissive, warned that costly restoration would be necessary, and even rejected an offer to gift the piece to them.

They dismissed Giacometti as a mere “poster artist“.

The painting was rolled up and stored.

 

 

Above: Alberto Giacometti (1901 – 1966)

 

 

In 1969, Cauma Lake, together with its bathing and other recreational facilities, was sold back to the municipality.

The period was one of further growth, with revenues increasing by 10% each year.

 

 

Caumasee hike Switzerland - and funicular.jpg

 

 

In 1970, the Hotel Bellavista was converted to a Hotel Garni (bed and breakfast hotel).

 

 

 

 

A year later, the 1904 Jugendstil (Art nouveau) pavilion was restored.

 

In 1972, the individual buildings were connected to each other with tunnels.

For children and their parents the hotel created its own Kindergarten facility.

 

In 1975, after a 40-year term as general director, Roman Bezzola was succeeded in the top job by Hugo Nussli-Bezzola and his wife.

An organisational restructuring saw the post of general director abolished, and a new director, named Riet Frey, took over while the former general director, Hugo Nussli, remained a board member.

 

An underground parking garage was added only in 1981, together with two apartment blocks called, “Runca” and “Miramount“.

Buyers of the holiday apartments received entitlement to use of the hotel facilities.

 

The sale profits from the holiday apartments were used to fund a redesign and renovation for the Hotel Belmont, which was reopened in 1984, which was the year in which gross income exceeded 10 million francs for the first time.

Direction of the hotel was taken over by Josef and Marianne Müller.

 

 

Hotel Waldhaus Flims, Switzerland - Booking.com

 

 

In 1986, the recently appointed hotel director Josef Müller rediscovered the work, recognized the Flims Panorama‘s value and had it restored.

It now hangs in the main lobby.

 

 

 

 

By 1988, the Hotel Segnes was no longer operating as an hotel, and it was converted into a restaurant, the “Pomodoro“, while its guest rooms were reassigned as staff accommodation.

The former Hotel Bellavista later went the same way, becoming a Chinese restaurant.

 

In 1990, the company name was changed from “AG Kurhotels Flims-Waldhaus” to “Park Hotels Waldhaus AG“.

 

A museum celebrating the hotel’s Belle Époque was created in 1992 in the cellar underneath the Casino-Pavilion.

Numerous old fixtures were retrieved from their storage locations and used to document the history of the Waldhaus, which by now tracked back more than a century.

After the exhibition commemorating the local architect Rudolf Olgiati opened in 1996, the crystal collection of the geologist Paul Membrini went on display in what had been the pavilion’s white wine cellar.

 

 

 

 

After nearly twenty years in charge, Josef and Marianne Müller left in 2000.

Their successors, Christoph and Sabina Schlosser, stayed only till 2010 which was when directorship of the resort complex was taken on by Yasmin and Urs Grimm Cachemaille.

 

Extensive building took place between 2003 and 2005:

  • The Villa Silvana was extensively renovated.
  • The 1967 indoor swimming pool was torn down and its function taken over by a new glass coated Swimming and Wellness Canter.
  • The pavilion’s old terrace was recreated, along with the Jugendstil (Art nouveau) features of the entrance lobby and reception area.
  • On the site of the old laundry another holiday apartment block, “Wald Park“, was built.
  • Two more blocks, named “Ententeich” and “La Cauma“, were added in 2005 and 2007.

 

In 2004, national television used the Waldhaus for a six-part mini-series, which presented “everyday life in a five star hotel” in a docu-drama format.

 

 

SF logo.png

 

 

A television gala presentation was transmitted from the hotel in August 2006.

Later that year part of a Parliamentary session was held in the Waldhaus.

 

 

Logo der Schweizerischen Eidgenossenschaft.svg

 

 

2006 was also the year in which the substantial shareholding accumulated by the Bezzola in the Hotel complex was sold, to be taken over by Hans Rudolf Wyss.

The shareholding changes were accompanied by a further name change, from “Park Hotels Waldhaus AG” to “Waldhaus Flims Mountain Resort AG“.

 

In 2009 the larches were removed from the original “Rondell” park, north of the Hotel Segnes, in order to make way for a large “Promenda” area.

 

 

SubalpineLarch 7735tl.jpg

 

 

On 7 April 2015 the company was declared bankrupt, with a funding shortfall initially reported at 30 million francs.

The running of the hotel was contracted by the receivers to a management company called “WF Hotel Management GmbH“:

The complex continued to welcome holiday makers while a permanent solution for the financial challenges was sought.

By August 2015 the reported cash deficit had increased to more than 40 million francs, but this was still comfortably less than the estimated value of the assets.

In an interview given to the travel press, Gion Fravi, the hotel director installed by the management company, stated that around 40 investors had expressed an interest in purchasing the assets, though he refused to enter into speculation about a possible sale price, given the pressure on running costs exacerbated by the increasing value of the Swiss Franc against the Euro in the wake of the 2007 financial crash.

During the closing months of 2015 the hotel was advertising jobs for the 2015/2016 season.

 

 

 

 

From my conversation with the gentlemen manning reception, 2020 has not helped the finances of the hotel.

They, like most public institutions, were closed during the Lockdown (17 March – 3 May) but on this day (28 May) the borders surrounding Switzerland remain sealed.

Mainly Zürichers are the hotel’s customers at present.

 

 

COVID-19 Outbreak Cases in Switzerland by Canton.svg

Above: The number of coronavirus (COVID-19) cases in Switzerland broken down by cantons as of 13 August 2020. 

The darker the region, the more cases therein.

 

 

We visited the main lobby of the Grand Hotel Waldhaus main building, wandered the grounds of the complex, had coffee outside the Casino Pavilion and peeked into the Museum which was not really open for visitors but still accessible.

 

 

Discover the local museums & libraries | Flims Laax Falera

 

 

We visited the Tourist Information Centre (the former dairy store) and had supper in our hotel’s steakhouse before retiring for the night.

 

Gästeinformation Flims • Tourist-Information » outdooractive.com

 

 

Flims is not as unattractive as some guidebooks suggest.

In fact, I found myself admiring the mix between Bündner buildings and modern bold architectural adventures in the creative use of wood.

Flims has two main parts as far as I could see:

  • Dorf, for the average denizen
  • Waldhaus, for the wealthy

We are definitely Dorfers.

 

 

Above: Rathaus Flims (Flims Town Hall)

 

 

Friday is a partly cloudy day, temperature hovering around 20°C, but the humidity makes it feel far more uncomfortable.

 

 

As we ride a Postbus from the post office bus stop across from our Hotel to Vals, I think of what Wikipedia tells me about events on this day:

  • Constantinople is conquered by the Ottomans (1453)

Zonaro GatesofConst.jpg

 

  • At the Battle of Waxhaws, South Carolina, the British continue attacking the Continental Army after the latter lay down their arms and surrendered. (1780)

Waxhaw massacre sketch.jpg

 

  • Swedish superstar opera singer Jenny Lind leaves New York after a two-year American tour. (1852)

Above: Jenny Lind (1820 – 1887)

 

  • Emperor Maximilian I arrives in Mexico. (1864)

Maximilian of Mexico bw.jpg

Above: Emperor Maxmilian of Mexico (1832 – 1867)

 

  • The Austro-Hungarian Empire is established. (1867)

 

 

  • A day for assassinating Serbian heads of state: Prince Michael Obrenovic III (1868) and Alexander I (and his Queen Draga).(1903)

Knez Mihajlo III Obrenovic.jpg

Above: Mihajlo III Obrenovic (1823 – 1868)

 

 

Above: Alexander I (1876 – 1903) and Draga (1866 – 1903)

 

 

  • The ocean liner RMS Empress of Ireland sinks in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence with the loss of 1,012 lives. (1914)

EMPRESS OF IRELAND - Sjöhistoriska museet - Fo210199.tif

 

 

  • Michele Schirru, a US citizen, is executed by Italian military firing squad, for the intent to kill Benito Mussolini. (1931)

Mussolini biografia.jpg

Above: Benito Mussolini (1883 – 1945)

 

 

  • The St. Roch, the first ship to circumnavigate North America, arrives in Halifax (1950).

St. Roch wintering in the Beaufort Sea.

 

 

  • Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay become the first humans to reach the summit of Sagarmatha / Chomolungma / Everest. (1953)

Everest kalapatthar.jpg

 

 

  • The Arab League forms the Palestinian Liberation Organization (PLO). (1964)

Plo emblem.png

Above: Logo of the PLO

 

 

  • 39 football fans die and hundreds are injured when a Heysel Stadium dilapidated retaining wall collapses. (Brussels, Belgium) (1985)

 

 

  • Canadian amputee Steve Fonyo completes Terry Fox’s cross-Canada marathon at Victoria after 14 months. (1985)

Fonyo Beach, a 56-er story

 

 

But today’s news feels much worse:

  • US President Donald Trump says he is terminating the country’s relationship with the World Health Organization (WHO) over its handling of the Covid-19 pandemic, claiming the WHO has become “a puppet of China” and that American funding will be redirected to “other global public health needs“.

In my opinion, an insane decision.

 

World Health Organization Logo.svg

 

  • Hundreds of Minnesota National Guards are deployed in Minneapolis to enforce night curfew, after Mayor Jacob Frey declared a state of local emergency amid civil unrest, but rioting and arson continue.

2020 Minneapolis Unrest (49952677233).jpg

 

  • In Detroit, police use tear gas to disperse a crowd of protesters and make several arrests, including one person who drove their car at a police officer.  A man (21) was killed in an altercation during the protests.

Day 4 of George Floyd protests continue across Michigan

 

 

  • In Atlanta, the CNN Center is vandalized and police vehicles attacked and set on fire as protests spread.  Seven people are reportedly arrested.

P6190222 (50026194956).jpg

 

 

  • In Houston, at least 137 people are arrested, eight police officers hospitalized and 16 police vehicles vandalized.

Above: Houston City Hall illuminated in crimson and gold in honor of George Floyd’s alma mater Yates High School on 8 June 2020

 

 

  • In Chicago, 108 people are arrested after several police vehicles are vandalized.

George Floyd killing: Chicagoans march in solidarity with protests ...

 

 

  • In Los Angeles, more than 500 people are arrested as the city declared the protest an “unlawful assembly“.

Hollywood protest shows power of George Floyd movement - Los ...

 

 

  • Former Minneapolis police officer Derek Chauvin, who was recorded on video kneeling on George Floyd’s neck for several minutes causing his death, is taken into custody by the Minnesota Bureau of Criminal Apprehension and is charged with 3rd degree murder and 2nd degree manslaughter.

Police officer Derek Chauvin stares into the camera as he kneels on the neck of George Floyd, who is lying on his stomach on the street.

 

 

  • Lesotho’s Appeal Court revokes former First Lady Maesiah Thabane’s bail.  She and her husband, former Prime Minister Tom Thabane, are accused of ordering the murder of his first wife, Lipolelo.

Flag of Lesotho

Above: Flag of Lesotho

 

 

But perhaps a walk will aid in forgetting about real life for a while.

 

 

 

 

A path runs down through the Flims forest as we pass the Caumasee lift and look down on the turquoise mountain lake.

 

 

Caumasee-Lift – Wikipedia

 

 

The well-signposted path keeps us in the direction of Conn.

At the Waldgasthaus in Conn we have for the first time a magnificent view of the Rhine Gorge with its Chli Isla peninsula and the railway bridge, over which we will shortly across the river.

 

 

Durch die Rheinschlucht • Wanderung » outdooractive.com

 

 

75 metres after the popular restaurant, the short detour to the airy viewing platform “Il Spir” is a must, from which the Grand Canyon of Switzerland can be seen as if from a bird’s eye view.

 

 

 

 

Beyond facts, images remain.

 

 

Observation platform Il Spir | Graubünden Tourism

 

 

This platform over the void, tapering left and right, whoever squeezes into one of the corners is suddenly all alone with the abyss.

The gaze falls hundreds of metres.

Below, the Vorderrhein loops in an elegant gray-blue, flanked by gravel banks.

 

 

Observation platform Il Spir | Graubünden Tourism

 

 

Wooden steep slopes flank the river, in which white rock wounds gape, dust, gravel, and in some places interspersed with cliffs and pillars.

You can feel it.

You instinctively know that this is one of the most beautiful landscapes there can be.

The viewing terrace serves as an experience of a perfect view.

 

 

Il Spir Aussichtsplattform Conn

 

 

The platform is an elegant construction.

It is mainly supported by two steel pylons, which are anchored directly to the edge of nothing, converge towards the top, and incline a little into the Gorge.

Strong pulling ropes ensure the anchoring.

 

 

Observation platform Il Spir | Graubünden Tourism

 

 

When you step on the platform, it looks like a bird that has spread its wings.

It is called “Il Spir” (Romansch for “the swift“).

The thing was invented by the Chur architect Corinna Menn.

 

 

 

 

Between Ilanz and Reichenau, the Vorderrhein has milled a huge gorge through the rubble of the Flims landslide.

The Flims landslide, around 10,000 years ago, is to blame for everything.

The term “landslide” is a bit misleading.

It is not as if God kicked the mountain and it crashed into the valley.

Rather the Flims landslide was a geological shift that stretched over several hundred years.

 

 

 

 

After the glaciers retreated, the pressure of the water masses caused the limestone to slide.

The valley river first dammed up and then over time dug a new path.

The result is the almost 500-metre deep Rhine Gorge (Romansch: Ruinaulta).

 

 

Von der Aussichtsplattform Il spir gesehene Rheinschleife in der Ruinaulta mit der RhB- und Fussgängerbrücke zwischen der Chli Isla in der Bildmitte und der Isla Bella (links)

 

 

The craggy limestone cliffs on the north side of the Gorge are quite impressive.

The Rhine Gorge, this Grand Canyon of Switzerland, is one of the most spectacular natural wonders in the nation.

The Gorge is a paradise for paddlers and rafters.

Those who prefer to stay dry can hike on the south side of the Gorge.

 

 

 

 

In Conn, at a junction, we now hike on Senda Survilana, a path leading towards Versam Station / Trin, to Point 424.

There we turn sharply to the right and follow signs to Versam Station.

In Ransun, we leave the easy forest path and start the steep descent into the Gorge.

Five minutes later, we keep left at an unmarked fork.

We reach the Isla Bella floodplain ten minutes later.

 

 

 

 

The Vorderrhein is crossed by a railway bridge with a pedestrian walkway.

The path leads to a short steep climb to the Chli Isla peninsula, which is located in the river Chrummwag, at the apex of which a branch is passed to the village of Versam.

We descend again on the peninsula as the path now runs directly between the Vorderrhein and the railway line to the Versam-Safien station.

 

 

Versam-Safien railway station - Wikipedia

 

 

Versam is especially interesting for water sports enthusiasts.

The LinX Beizli with its few tables in the open air – and these days social distancing seating and hand disinfectant – is a meeting place for canoeists and rafters, next to the where the Versam boating school is based.

 

 

Cafe zur Einkehr & Mystik | Surselva

 

 

Past the train station, we continue along the tracks.

After a gravel pit, the path bends to the left and brings us up to the Isla and past a few houses on a path back down to the railway line.

Shortly after the junction to Valendas….

 

 

24h Timelapse Valendas, Switzerland

 

 

Valendas is worth a detour, for therein is Europe’s largest wooden fountain adorning the village square – a very popular photo op.

At the head of the fountain, an enigmatic fish-tailed nymph wearing a Florentine hat, watches over the water.

 

 

Valendas - Wikipedia

 

 

….we go through an underpass, cross the Carrera Tobel (ravine) on the bridge and walk along the tracks to the Valendas – Sagogn station.

 

Valendas-Sagogn Rhaetian Railway Station Building, Valenda… | Flickr

 

 

After the train station we cross the Rhine again on another bridge and gradually regain altitude on the unpaved forest path towards Salums / Conn.

At Point 380, we guide our feet down the narrow footpath towards Flims through the Uaul Grind (Greater Forest).

Again there is an impressive view down into the Rhine Gorge to the Chrummwag.

The path again meets a forest trail, on which we meet, at Point 7, the well-known promenade path that takes us back to Flims.

 

 

 

 

I am not certain that a comparison between Arizona’s Grand Canyon and Graubünden’s Ruinaulta is necessarily a valid one.

The Grand Canyon is over 1,857 metres deep, the Ruinaulta a mere 400 metres.

The Grand Canyon is 446 kilometres long, the Ruinaulta only 13 kilometres long.

But it all depends how you define the word “grand“.

For if “grand” is used to describe something that is magnificent, imposing and impressive, awe-inspiring and splendid, resplendent and majestic, then these adjectives define both the Grand Canyon and the Ruinaulta quite adequately.

If “grand” is used to describe a place that is fancy and posh, classy and swanky, look no further than Flims Waldhaus Hotel.

And if “grand” is used to illustrate an experience that is marvellous and splendid, wonderful and outstanding, then this is how I would describe the Flims experience.

 

 

 

 

And for we in Switzerland, at a time when going to America is a forbidden folly in a land frentically fearful and plagued by pandemic in ponderous and painful proportions, perhaps exploring the wonders of the world closer to home might be the wiser course of action.

 

In my mind’s eye I stand atop Il Spir, alone on the edge of nothing.

The future is stretched below me and though the heights are dizzying, the view is, in a word, grand.

 

 

Bild des Objektes

 

 

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook / Rolf Goetz, Surselva / Markus X. Schmid, Graubünden / Thomas Widmer, Schweizer Wunder

Canada Slim and the Sound of Silence

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Monday 17 August 2020

Every day is a rare and precious thing and time and health are dwindling resources that too many people take for granted.

I try to be consequent and record each and every day, either in my daily journal or as part of my Facebook posts, but even then the memory is still the determining factor as to what ends up in my blogs and what never sees the light of day.

 

 

 

 

On 13 July and 11 August 2020 I began telling of my adventures and discoveries getting to and travelling about the Flims region in Canton Graubünden.

(Please see Canada Slim and the Love of Landscape and Canada Slim and the Castle of Happiness of this blog.)

 

 

Flims Dorf under "Flimserstein"

Above: Flims Dorf

 

 

With all that has happened in my life since the 2020 Swiss Lockdown ended – the aforementioned Flims trip, travels and hiking in Canton Valais, the departure from Starbucks, the search for new employment, and the neverending cycle of events that happen around me and around the world, sometimes events slip from my memory that deserve more attention.

I am referring to walks I have done, sometimes solo, sometimes accompanied by my wife, within the region referred to as the Bodensee Süd (southern Lake Constance), which includes Thurgau Canton (where I live), St. Gallen Canton (where I work), Appenzellerland (next door to St. Gallen Canton and the Austrian State of Vorarlberg (bordering on Cantons St. Gallen and Graubünden, the Principality of Liechtenstein and the German States of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria).

 

 

Bergverlag Rother – Bodensee Süd

 

 

Somehow a walk I accomplished prior to 28 May 2020, though only day trips, slipped my memory.

I believe that this two walk – done on 24 May  – is worth recording here as it offers a glimpse of what life is like here in Switzerland.

 

 

Flag of Switzerland

 

 

Sunday 24 May 2020, Diepoldsau, Canton St. Gallen

The Rhine (Latin: Rhenus, Romansh: Rein, German: Rhein, French: Rhin, Italian: Reno, Dutch: Rijn, Alemannic German: Rhi(n) including Alsatian/Low Alemannic German) is one of the major European rivers, which has its sources in Switzerland and flows in a mostly northerly direction through Germany and the Netherlands, emptying into the North Sea.

The river begins in the Swiss canton of Graubünden in the southeastern Swiss Alps, forms part of the Swiss-Liechtenstein, Swiss-Austrian, Swiss-German and then the Franco-German border, then flows through the German Rhineland and the Netherlands and eventually empties into the North Sea.

It is the second-longest river in Central and Western Europe (after the Danube), at about 1,230 km (760 mi), with an average discharge of about 2,900 m3/s (100,000 cu ft/s).

The Rhine and the Danube formed most of the northern inland frontier of the Roman Empire and, since those days, the Rhine has been a vital and navigable waterway carrying trade and goods deep inland.

Its importance as a waterway in the Holy Roman Empire is supported by the many castles and fortifications built along it.

In the modern era, it has become a symbol of German nationalism.

Among the largest and most important cities on the Rhine are Cologne (Köln), Düsseldorf, Rotterdam, Strasbourg and Basel.

 

 

Flusssystemkarte Rhein 04.jpg

 

 

The mouth of the Rhine into Lake Constance forms an inland delta.

The delta is delimited in the west by the Alter Rhein (“Old Rhine“) and in the east by a modern canalized section.

Most of the delta is a nature reserve and bird sanctuary.

It includes the Austrian towns of Gaißau, Höchst and Fußach.

The natural Rhine originally branched into at least two arms and formed small islands by precipitating sediments.

 

 

 

In the local Alemannic dialect, the singular is pronounced “Isel” and this is also the local pronunciation of Esel (“donkey“).

Many local fields have an official name containing this element.

 

 

Donkey in Clovelly, North Devon, England.jpg

 

 

A regulation of the Rhine was called for, with an upper canal near Diepoldsau and a lower canal at Fußach, in order to counteract the constant flooding and strong sedimentation in the western Rhine Delta.

 

 

 

 

The Dornbirner Ach had to be diverted, too, and it now flows parallel to the canalized Rhine into the lake.

Its water has a darker color than the Rhine.

The latter’s lighter suspended load comes from higher up the mountains.

It is expected that the continuous input of sediment into the lake will silt up the lake.

 

 

Dornbirn wikicon 31.08.2012 14-24-27.jpg

 

 

This has already happened to the former Lake Tuggenersee.

The cut-off Old Rhine at first formed a swamp landscape.

Later an artificial ditch of about two km was dug.

It was made navigable to the Swiss town of Rheineck.

 

 

Alter Rhein.png

 

 

The Wahlkreis Rheintal (English: Rhine Valley) is a constituency (Wahlkreis) of the canton of St. Gallen, Switzerland, formed under the new constitution of the Canton on 10 June 2001.

It consists largely of the former districts of Oberrheintal (Upper Rhine Valley) and Unterrheintal (Lower Rhine Valley).

The Wahlrkreis is comprised of 13 municipalities, of which the focus of this post, Diepoldsau is one of them.

 

 

Karte von Wahlkreis Rheintal

 

 

While today’s Rhine River purposefully flows into Lake Constance in its straightened bed, the Old Rhine is one of its still waters.

The still original arms of the Old Rhine, separated from the New Rhine due to flooding a century ago, are characterized by a specific flora and fauna.

Apart from a short start and an abrupt end, the swift flatland circuit we followed is formed by both the old and new banks of the River.

 

 

Above: Painting by Max Bach (1841-1914) of the view of Rheineck and the former mouth of the Rhine into Lake Constance

 

 

It is a 41-minute / 51-kilometre car journey from Landschlacht to Diepoldsau via Highways 13 and 1.1, but in some ways this mere distance seems greater.

 

 

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau

 

 

It was on this day on this three-hour / 12-kilometre walk that I once again considered aspects of Switzerland that unsettle me.

 

 

Diepoldsau 9 Schrägseilbrücke Ortstafel.jpg

 

 

This is a nation wherein I reside, but it is a nation which I do not believe that I will ever embrace as beloved.

 

 

Coat of arms of Switzerland

 

 

It is a land that claims to be the best democracy in terms of its practices – such as frequent referendums and in some cantons public direct voting in the market squares – and yet all Swiss men are required to serve the nation in a military or civil service capacity for several weeks a year until such age they are no longer considered useful.

 

 

 

 

This is a land that prides itself on its humanitarianism – with noteworthy institutions like the European branch of the United Nations and the International Red Cross – and yet this is a land where children were sold for their labour….

 

 

Above: Headquarters of the International Red Cross, Geneva

 

 

(The Schwabenkinder of the 19th century – peasant children from poor families in the Alps of Austria and Switzerland who went to find work on farms in Upper Swabia and the Swabian Jura.

Usually they were sent by their parents to become seasonal workers.

They were taken in spring and brought to the child markets in Germany, mainly in Upper Swabia, where they would be purchased or “rented” by farmers for the season.

It was not uncommon for five and six-year-old children to be taken.)

 

 

 

 

….. and refugees from the Nazi Holocaust were denied entry,

 

 

Selection on the ramp at Auschwitz-Birkenau, 1944 (Auschwitz Album) 1a.jpg

 

 

This is a land where immense profits were made from the manufacture of arms in wars they refused to enter, where secret bank accounts hid the ill-gotten gains of corrupt depositors.

 

 

Swiss Banks Name Holders of Dormant Accounts Worth $45 Million - WSJ

 

 

This is a land eager to show that it does not discriminate and, in fairness, per capita Switzerland does admit many more foreigners into its territory than many other nations have, but the ability for the foreigner to rise in society is no easier in Switzerland than anywhere else.

 

 

Above: Poster against illegal Muslim immigration

 

 

I have witnessed sexual discrimination, racial discrimination and age discrimination, but like many democratic nations the discrimination is well-cloaked in terminology and legalese to justify the discriminatory activities.

 

 

 

 

Let me be clear on a few points:

 

I am not suggesting that there is a single nation on the planet that has not, at some time in its history, blood on its hands.

 

 

"The Blue Marble" photograph of Earth, taken by the Apollo 17 mission. The Arabian peninsula, Africa and Madagascar lie in the upper half of the disc, whereas Antarctica is at the bottom.

 

 

Nor am I suggesting that the entire population of a nation be judged on the actions of a few.

 

 

Flag of United Nations Arabic: منظمة الأمم المتحدة‎ Chinese: 联合国 French: Organisation des Nations unies Russian: Организация Объединённых Наций Spanish: Organización de las Naciones Unidas

 

 

All I am saying is we should not embrace our nationalism without sober reflection of all that was done, both positive and negative, in the name of that nation.

 

 

 

 

The cries of our victims should not be drowned beneath national anthems and the drumbeat of progress.

 

 

Hear The Most Popular 7 Seconds of Drumming Ever Recorded | Mental ...

 

 

As Marcus Aurelius wrote:

A man does not sin by commission (doing things he should not have done) only, but often by omission (not doing things he should have done).”

 

 

Marble bust of Marcus Aurelius

Above: Marble bust of Marcus Aurelius (AD 121 – 180)

 

 

Switzerland may not have had a war since the days of Napoleon, but its actions (or lack of actions) despite this is how the nation should be judged.

 

 

As a resident foreigner, I have often felt that there has always been a whiff of hypocracy in the rarified Swiss air, a pretense of being purer than it is, much like a whore pretending to be a virgin.

Every once in a while, I am reminded of the double standard, smoke and mirrors, layers beneath the image by which the Swiss would like to be seen.

 

 

 

 

As a neutral state bordering Germany, Switzerland was easy to reach for refugees from the Nazis.

 

 

Above: German-Swiss border

 

 

Switzerland’s refugee laws, especially with respect to Jews fleeing Germany, were strict and have caused controversy since the end of World War II.

From 1933 until 1944 asylum for refugees could only be granted to those who were under personal threat owing to their political activities only.

It did not include those who were under threat due to race, religion or ethnicity.

On the basis of this definition, Switzerland granted asylum to only 644 people between 1933 and 1945.

Of these, 252 cases were admitted during the war.

All other refugees were admitted by the individual cantons and were granted different permits, including a “tolerance permit” that allowed them to live in the canton but not to work.

Over the course of the war, Switzerland interned 300,000 refugees.

Of these, 104,000 were foreign troops interned according to the Rights and Duties of Neutral Powers outlined in the Hague Conventions.

 

 

Above: The Peace Palace, The Hague, The Netherlands

 

 

The rest were foreign civilians and were either interned or granted tolerance or residence permits by the cantonal authorities.

Refugees were not allowed to hold jobs.

Of the refugees, 60,000 were civilians escaping persecution by the Nazis.

Of these 60,000, 27,000 were Jews.

Between 10,000 and 24,000 Jewish civilian refugees were refused entry.

These refugees were refused entry on the asserted claim of dwindling supplies.

Of those refused entry, a Swiss government representative said:

“Our little lifeboat is full”.

 

 

Above: Eduard von Steiger (1881 – 1962), Swiss Minister of Justice and the Police, who coined the lifeboat phrase

 

 

 

At the beginning of the war, Switzerland had a Jewish population of between 18,000 and 28,000 and a total population of about four million.

By the end of the war, there were over 115,000 refuge-seeking people of all categories in Switzerland, representing the maximum number of refugees at any one time.

 

 

The boat is full': 75 years later - SWI swissinfo.ch

 

 

In August 1938, Switzerland closed its borders to Jewish refugees who tried to evade the Nazi regime.

Migration of Jewish people across the green border to Switzerland was declared by the Swiss government to be illegal and refugees were sent back to Austria and Germany.

Hundreds of people without a valid visa tried to cross the border to be safe and secure in Switzerland from the Holocaust, many of them crossing the border from Austria to Canton St. Gallen.

These “illegal migrations” and the background of the border crossings and its clandestine support by Swiss officials and citizens, got the attention of the Swiss immigration police.

 

 

Swiss Border Guard - Wikipedia

 

 

Diepoldsau (pop: 6,471+) – the start and end points of our circular walk –  was first mentioned in 891.

In 1868, a disastrous fire struck Diepoldsau:

141 people lost their homes as 23 houses burned to the ground.

Three years later, a major flood struck the town.

Another flood of the Rhine followed in 1888 when the Diepoldsau Dam broke.

Another dam broke a year later, followed by a famine due to all the destroyed crops.

 

 

 

 

An international treaty between the Austro-Hungarian Empire and Switzerland on the regulation of the Rhine was decided in 1892.

Between 1910 and 1912 work began on the Diepoldsau Rhine.

The First World War largely hindered the continuation of work on the river.

During the Great War, a large number of residents made a lot of money smuggling thread.

 

 

 

 

On 18 April 1923, the Rhine was diverted to its new bed,

In 1932, the municipality created the first groundwater supply with a pumping system and a pipeline network of 14 kilometres.

 

 

Alter Rhein/Diepoldsau | TOURENSPUREN

 

 

But Diepoldsau’s claim to fame was that it was the crossing point for Jews escaping Nazi Germany (and German-annexed Austria) into Canton St. Gallen.

Thousands of Jews were saved here, despite the general Swiss policy of severely restricting Jewish escape from their Nazi persecutors.

In Diepoldsau, a refugee camp for up to 300 people was built in June 1938 in an old empty ship embroidery factory, maintained by the Swiss Red Cross and financed by the Jewish community of St. Gallen.

 

 

Switzerland – Évian Conference – Online-Exhibition

 

 

The Swiss federal government did not participate in the funding.

The inmates were subject to strict camp regulations and were not allowed to work.

They were prohibited from contacting the local population, but this rule was mostly not adhered to.

 

 

The police commander who saved hundreds of Jews | House of Switzerland

 

 

Swiss immigration police senior official Heinrich Rothmund ordered police inspector Robert Frei, a ruthless, loyal and authoritarian official, to investigate Canton St. Gallen.

Jewish refugees appeared to be supported by parts of the local population, with the approval of the Canton police commandant Paul Grüninger.

Frei’s investigation confirmed the suspicion that Grüninger allowed Jewish refugees to enter Switzerland without a valid visa.

Grüninger falsified documents and personally helped refugees to illegally cross the border.

 

 

The police commander who saved hundreds of Jews | House of Switzerland

 

 

Grüninger confessed to Frei, but he claimed that he was not acting against the law or against the state security of Switzerland.

His motives were based on pure humanity.

Frei was overawed by Grüninger’s integrity, intransigence and personal views and came to doubt the legality of his investigations.

Nonetheless Grüninger was dismissed from the police, convicted of official misconduct and heavily fined.

Grüninger received no pension and died in poverty.

 

 

Above: Paul Grüninger (1891 – 1972)

 

 

After his death, Grüninger’s reputation was brought back partially in the public memory by some publications beginning in 1984.

Steps to rehabilitate his reputation were set in motion.

The first attempt to restore Grüninger’s honour was rejected by the Swiss Council.

Only as late as 1995 did the Swiss federal government finally annul Grüninger’s conviction.

The district court of St. Gallen revoked the judgment against him and cleared him of all charges.

Three years later, the cantonal government paid compensation to Grüninger’s descendants.

 

 

Coat of arms of Kanton St. Gallen

Above: Coat of arms of Canton St. Gallen

 

 

In 1999, the Bergier Commission’s report rehabilitated Grüninger as well as the surviving people who had been convicted for their assistance to refugees – a mere 137 persons out of a wartime population of five million (today, over eight million).

 

 

Le déviationnisme coupable de la commission Bergier - Les Observateurs

 

 

The Bergier commission in Bern was formed by the Swiss government on 12 December 1996.

It is also known as the ICE (Independent Commission of Experts).

Founded in a decade when Switzerland had come under recurring criticism for its behaviour during World War II, particularly with respect to its relations with the Nazi government in Germany, the commission was established by the Swiss Parliament and headed by Jean-François Bergier, an economic historian.

Made up of Polish, American, Israeli and Swiss historians, the Commission’s mandate was to investigate the volume and fate of assets moved to Switzerland before, during, and immediately after the Second World War.

The investigation was to be made from a historical and legal point of view, with a particular emphasis on the links between the Nazi regime and Swiss banks.

The mandate covers almost every type of asset, including gold, currency and cultural assets.

The content of the research program was broadened by the government to include economic relations, arms production, “Aryanisation measures”, the monetary system, and refugee policy.

 

 

Flag of the NSDAP (1920–1945).svg

 

 

Since the 19th century, Switzerland had a positive humanitarian image based upon the tradition of granting asylum, providing good offices, humanitarian aid, particularly through the work of the Geneva-based International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC).

However, after the First World War, Switzerland was not immune to xenophobic and anti-semitic sentiments that were spreading through Europe.

As in other Western countries in the 1930s, Switzerland, increasingly applied restrictions on the admission of foreigners in the name of national security.

Switzerland, apparently on its own initiative began to openly apply racist selection criteria according to the Nazi definition.

In 1938, even before the war broke out, the Swiss Government requested the Nazi authorities to stamp all passports of German Jews with a “J” as the Swiss did not recognize the right to asylum of those fleeing racial persecution.

 

 

German J stamped Passport for the East - Our Passports

 

 

With the increasing persecution of Jews by the Nazi regime, Swiss restrictions were set apart from other restrictive policies of the Allies due to its geographical location:

It was the easiest country on the continent for refugees to reach.

 

 

 

 

Thousands of refugees were sent back even though authorities knew that they were likely sending them to their deaths.

 

 

Part 1: Walking in the darkness, tripping over the truth | Words ...

 

 

The ICE concluded:

Switzerland, and in particular its political leaders, failed when it came to generously offering protection to persecuted Jews.

This is all the more serious in view of the fact that the authorities, who were quite aware of the possible consequences of their decision, not only closed the borders in August 1942, but continued to apply this restrictive policy for over a year.

By adopting numerous measures making it more difficult for refugees to reach safety, and by handing over the refugees caught directly to their persecutors, the Swiss authorities were instrumental in helping the Nazi regime to attain its goals.

 

 

Escape | Jüdisches Museum Hohenems

 

 

Refugee figures are hard to come by.

However the Commission concluded that during the Second World War Switzerland offered refuge from Nazi persecution to some 60,000 refugees for varying periods of time, a little under 50% of whom were Jewish.

The commission carefully explained the difficulty of estimating the number of refugees, most of whom were probably Jewish, turned away.

In a preliminary report for the Commission, an estimate of 24,000 “documented rejections” was published.

However, in the final report, perhaps having taken into account criticism of the earlier figures, the commission was more cautious, indicating that it must be assumed that “Switzerland turned back or deported over 20,000 refugees during the Second World War.

Specifically, they reported that during the period from 1 January 1942, after the borders were closed, to 31 December 1942, 3,507 refugees were turned back.

In August 2001 when the Commission issued a final conclusion, with respect to refugee policy, stating that, “measured against its previous stand in terms of humanitarian aid and asylum where its refugee policy was concerned, neutral Switzerland not only failed to live up to its own standards, but also violated fundamental humanitarian principles.”

 

 

Flight and Expulsion of the Jews from Austria – Évian Conference ...

 

 

The initial reaction to Nazi policy of discriminating against Jews was mixed with some of the companies complying readily and even anticipating laws to come, while others held out and resisted discriminating as long as they could.

However, the Commission found that the practice of certifying the Aryan origin of its staff was widespread among owners and senior managers of Swiss companies in Nazi-occupied territory.

Even before 1938, the Swiss Federal Political Department had suggested the applying of German law concerning race to Swiss companies.

The commission concluded that this “clearly shows that the FPD, either completely misjudged the legal, political and ethical implications of doing so, or ignored any misgivings they might have had for the sake of commercial interests.

After 1938, it became impossible for Swiss companies operating in Nazi controlled areas to avoid applying aryanization policy if they were to continue to operate.

The commission concluded, “that Swiss firms played an active role in the ‘Aryanisation’ process.

Not only were their head offices in Switzerland aware of what was happening – often because their subsidiaries within Nazi-controlled territory were involved in the acquisition of Jewish businesses – but they approved of or even encouraged the process.”

 

 

JDC in the 1930s | JDC Archives

 

 

The commission also addressed the issue of the use of slave and forced labor in Swiss-owned firms and concluded: “that the figure quoted in the media – a total of over 11,000 forced labourers and prisoners of war employed in Swiss subsidiary companies throughout the Reich – is likely to be on the low side.”

 

The commission examined the role of the Swiss diplomatic service in protecting Swiss-owned property held in the Reich and concluded that a double standard was applied: whereas international law was strictly applied vis-a-vis Swiss property in the Soviet Union, Swiss authorities, “increasingly favoured the so-called theory of equal treatment, i.e., that if Germany was discriminating against its own Jewish citizens it was hardly possible to legally contest its equally harsh treatment of foreign Jews living in Germany.

 

 

CHF coins.jpg

 

 

German race laws were implicitly endorsed by the Swiss government

  • In 1938 the Swiss asked the German government to stamp a J in the passports of all German Jews in order that they could be treated differently from other German passport holders.
  • In 1942 the Swiss officials closed their borders and refused to admit Jewish children among children brought to Switzerland for holidays.
  • Anti-semitic attitudes held by Swiss authorities contributed to such decisions.
  • In 1941 when the Nazi government stripped German Jews of their citizenship, the Swiss authorities applied the law to German Jews living in Switzerland by declaring them stateless; when in February 1945 Swiss authorities blocked German Bank accounts held in Switzerland they declared that the German Jews were no longer stateless, but were once again German and blocked their Swiss bank accounts as well.

 

While it is true that Swiss offered humanitarian assistance to refugees in Switzerland and others in distress abroad, the Swiss government did not use its unique geographical and historical positions to offer protection to those persecuted by the Nazi state, rather they progressively closed their borders and returned refugees to Nazi authorities, driving many people to certain death.

 

 

Swiss Act to Check Refugee Influx; Threaten to Return New Emigres ...

 

 

Consistent with historical business ties and Swiss neutrality, Swiss firms continued and often increased their relationship with the economies in Nazi occupied Europe.

However, in a number of cases Swiss businessmen went out of their way to conform to the German political climate to the extent of removing Jewish employees in their factories and offices in Germany and even sometimes in Switzerland.

Swiss firms also neglected the interests, particularly in the banking and insurance sectors of clients who were persecuted by the Nazis.

Some Swiss firms in adapting to the restructured German economy found themselves employing forced labour and in some cases labour from concentration camps.

Even though statistics are hard to come by, it is clear that Nazi-plundered gold flowed into Switzerland with the knowledge of the highest authorities in spite of promises that were made to the Allies to forbid such trade.

 

 

Nazi Reichsbank Gold Bars

 

 

The Commission concluded that the dual responsibilities of a democratic state to its own people and to the international community were not met during the period examined, and were often ignored during the fifty year post-war period.

After the war, when victims of the Holocaust or relatives of victims tried to access bank accounts that had been dormant during the war, Swiss banking authorities hid behind an interpretation of banking secrecy laws to block access and restitution.

Such behavior was deemed to have been determined by institutional self-interest rather than the interests of the victims of the Nazi state who had transferred their assets to Switzerland for safekeeping.

 

 

Bundesarchiv Bild 183-N0827-318, KZ Auschwitz, Ankunft ungarischer Juden.jpg

 

 

 

Grüninger was recognized as one of the Righteous Among the Nations by the Yad Vashem Holocaust Foundation in 1971.

In other words, this recognition, and subsequent publications a decade later, was needed before the Swiss government finally felt the compulsion to exonerate Grüninger.

 

 

Righteous Among the Nations medal simplified.svg

 

Above: The Righteous Among the Nations medal

 

 

A street located in the northern Jerusalem neighbourhood of Pisgat Ze’ev, a stadium in Brühl (St. Gallen), the Rhine bridge between Diepoldsau (Switzerland) and Hohenems (Austria), and a path in Oerlikon (Zürich) are named after Paul Grüninger.

 

 

Paul Grüninger in Israel geehrt - SWI swissinfo.ch

Above: Paul Grüninger Street, Jerusalem

 

 

Paul-Grüninger-Stadion - Stadion in St. Gallen

Above: Paul Grüninger Stadium, Brühl (St. Gallen)

 

 

RHE246 Paul Grüninger Bridge over the Alter Rhein River, D… | Flickr

Above: Paul Grüninger Bridge

 

 

File:Oerlikon - Paul Grüninger-Weg 2015-06-14 16-10-36.JPG

Above: Paul Grüninger Weg, Oerlikon

 

 

Which may be comforting to Grüninger’s descendants and ease the guilty conscience of the Swiss government, but is no consolation for the dead.

 

 

Paul Grueninger Stiftung _Grab

Above: Final resting place of Paul and Alice Grüninger, Au, Canton St. Gallen

 

 

My wife and I arrived in Diepoldsau, found a place to park in the city centre near the bus stop Diepoldsau Dorf (near the post office), and walked in the direction of Heerbrugg, following signage marked “Rhein Rundweg” (Rhine Circle Path) to lead us to the Rhine bridge leading to the Swiss town of Widnau.

Our path was no so much a circle as it was in the form of an inverted letter “C” or a dented “D“.

A trail to a dam that evolved into a farm path led us north near the river bank.

 

 

Wanderpfad auf der Landesgrenze mitten im Alten Rhein | St.Galler ...

 

 

The gently rolling Appenzeller foothills rose to our left, the rugged Bregenzerwald mountains to our right, above this strikingly flat and resistant manmade Diepoldsau peninsula created by the old and new Rhine rivers.

Every 250 metres beside the concrete path stood a “museum hut” – a little wooden cabin, not much larger than an outhouse or portable potty – with three small windows allowing the voyeur to see souvenirs of the past.

 

 

Natur- und Erholungsparadies Alter Rhein

 

 

At the state border to Vorarlberg, the circular route turned to the southeast at the Unter Spitz (410 metres above sea level), the northern apex of the path.

We then leisurely strolled along the long-drawn out natural landscape protected area known as the Alterrhein (old Rhine), an important recreational spot, towards the defiant Rätikonberge (Rätikon mountains) and the Alvier elevation on the Swiss side.

Again and again we directed our curious gaze through the trees to contemplate the atmospheric tranquillity of the surface of the water.

 

 

Bilder und Texte zu meinen Wanderungen mit Hund: Rundwanderung in ...

 

 

From the Schmitterbrücke Zollamt (Schmitter Bridge Customs Office)(413 metres above sea level), the path runs through a wonderfully soothing strip of riparian forest, which is replaced by a Vitaparcours (a fitness trail).

 

 

 

 

At the Diepoldsau Lido (an outdoor swimming pool facility)(410 metres above sea level) we had to switch to a parellel route.

 

 

Luzern – Lido | Museum für Gestaltung eGuide

 

 

After crossing Hohenems Road, that bisects the D-shaped Diepoldsau peninsula and leads to the Austrian city of Hohenems, our narrow circular trail followed the bank of the Old Rhine for a long time.

From the water supply dam (411 metres above sea level) with a beautiful view of the Hoher Kasten (1,791 m / 5,876 ft), a mountain in nearby Appenzell, an agricultural path, lined with birches, led us alongside the dam through the Isenriet (a marsh) back to the town of Diepoldsau.

 

 

Rundweg Alter Rhein • Wanderung » outdooractive.com

 

 

I found myself thinking about events in history that took place on this day (24 May) and I am reminded that on this day in 1981 Ecuadorian President Jaime Roldós Aguilera died in an aviation accident while travelling from Quito to Zapotillo, minutes after he had given his most famous speech regarding the anniversary of the Battle of Pichincha (24 May 1822) in a short war against Peru.

 

 

Roldos aguilera.png

Above: Jaime Roldós Aguilera (1940 – 1981)

 

 

Roldós is best known for his firm stance on human rights.

He reduced the workweek to 42 hours, doubled the minimum wage and proposed the signing of a Charter of Conduct with Columbia, Peru and Venezuela in which the principles of universal justice and human rights were reaffirmed, signaling protection of human rights as a more important principle than non-intervention.

 

 

 

 

I won’t get into the suspicious nature of the crash (wherein even a team of Zürich Police were brought to Ecuador to conduct an investigation), but rather I would like to share with you the essence of his last speech  –  at Atahulpa Stadium in front of a crowd of thousands  –  in an attempt to show you how I think nationalism should be practised.

 

 

Estadio Olímpico Atahualpa (15665410999).jpg

Above: Atahulpa Olympic Stadium, Quito, Ecuador

 

 

We have worked 21 months under a constitutional government when in countries like ours, having a democratic stability means conquering it daily.

 

 

Flag of Ecuador

Above: Flag of Ecuador

 

 

Ecuadorians, we were honest.

We continue to be honest in each and all of our actions.

Actions, not words, will prove our intentions.

It is the time of work and solidarity, not the time for strikes, threats or rumours.

Let us prove we love our country by complying our duties.

Our great passion is and should always be Ecuador.

Our great passion, listen to me, is and should be Ecuador.

 

 

Ecuador Map | Infoplease

 

 

We don’t want this Ecuador to be enmeshed in the insignificant but in the most important, in the untiring building-up a destiny of nobility, a heroic Ecuador won on Pichincha, an Ecuador with brave people, brave fighters….

A heroic Ecuador of the Condor Mountain Range.

An eternal and united Ecuador in defence of its territory.

A democratic Ecuador capable of teaching humanism, work and liberty.

This Amazonian Ecuador, forever and always.

Long live this nation.

 

 

Ecuador recuerda a su presidente Jaime Roldós Aguilera ...

 

 

Grüninger and Roldós paid a heavy price for their idealism, but their lives meant something significant.

They taught us that we can be better than we are, by doing what we should and refraining from doing what we should not.

 

 

There are so many problems in the world, but imagine what we could accomplish if we all together decided to try.

 

 

Rundwanderung am Alten Rhein bei Hohenems, Vorarlberg

 

 

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Herbert Mayr, Bodensee Süd (Rother Wanderführer)