Saved by nostalgia

Eskişehir, Türkiye, Sunday 13 November 2022

Last week, one of my Complimentary Class discussions was on inventions.

What was life before these inventions?

What were the most important inventions?

Reflecting on today and imagining tomorrow.

I am not a modern Luddite, but I have always maintained that for every gain gotten from technology there is also an accompanying loss as well.

(The Luddites were a secret oath-based organization of English textile workers in the 19th century who formed a radical faction which destroyed textile machinery.

The group are believed to have taken their name from Ned Ludd, a legendary weaver supposedly from Anstey, near Leicester.

They protested against manufacturers who used machines in what they called “a fraudulent and deceitful manner” to get around standard labour practices.

Luddites feared that the time spent learning the skills of their craft would go to waste, as machines would replace their role in the industry.)

I am even willing to argue that even the invention of the wheel came with its losses.

Walking is an activity that requires openness, engagement and few expenses,

The wheel has evolved into the closed automobile, road rage and endless expense.

Above: An early wheel made of a solid piece of wood

I quote directly now from one of my favourite books from one of my favourite writers:

The new millennium arrived as a dialectic between secrecy and openness, between consolidation and dispersal of power, between privatization and public ownership, power and life.

Walking has ever been on the side of the latter.

On 15 February 2003, police estimated three quarters of a million took to the streets of London, though organizers thought two million a more accurate figure.

Above: London anti-war protest, 15 February 2003

50,000 walked in Glasgow, 100,000 in Dublin, 300,000 in Berlin, 3 million in Rome, 100,000 in Paris, 1.5 million in Barcelona and 2 million in Madrid.

South American demonstrations in Rio de Janeiro, Buenos Aires, Santiago and other cities took place that day.

Walkers gathered in Seoul, Tokyo, Tel Aviv, Baghdad, Karachi, Detroit, Cape Town, Calcutta, Istanbul, Montréal, Mexico City, New York, San Francisco, Sydney, Vancouver, Moscow, Tehran, Copenhagen….

But to name only the large cities is to overlook the passion in Toulouse, Malta, in small town New Mexico and Bolivia, in the Inuit homeland of northern Canada, in Montevideo, Mostar, in Sfax, Tunisia (where the marchers were beaten by the police), in Chicoutimi, Québec (where the wind chill factor brought the temperature down to -40°C), and on Ross Island, Antarctica (where the scientists did not walk far, but posed for antiwar photographs to testify that even the seventh continent was on board).

The global walk of more than 30 million people prompted the New York Times to call civil society “the world’s other superpower“.

That day, 15 February 2003, did not stop the war against Iraq, though it might have changed the war’s parameters.

Turkey, for example, under heavy citizen pressure declined to let its air bases be used for the assault.

Above: Flag of Turkey

The 21st century has dawned as an era of people power and public protest.

In Latin America, in particular, that power had been very tangible, toppling regimes, undoing coups, protecting resources from foreign profiteers.

From students in Belgrade to farmers in Korea, collective public acts have mattered.

Above: Demonstration against Iranian President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad in Rio during Rio+20 conference

Walking itself has not changed the world, but walking together has been a rite, tool and reinforcement of the civil society that can stand up to violence, to fear, and to repression.

Indeed, it is hard to imagine a viable civil society without the free association and the knowledge of the terrain that comes with walking.

A sequestered or passive population is not quite a citizenry.

Above: Hundreds of thousands descended on Washington, DC’s, Lincoln Memorial, 28 August 1963.

It was from the steps of the memorial that Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. delivered his famous I Have a Dream speech.

King’s many speeches and nonviolent actions were instrumental in shaping the nation’s outlook on equality.

The 50,000 person march in Seattle that culminated in a shutdown of the 1990 World Trade Organization (WTO) meeting on 30 November 1999 was one start of a new era in which a global movement stood up against the corporate version of globalization, with its threats to the local, to the democratic, to the unhomogenized and to the independent.

Above: WTO protests in Seattle, 30 November 1999 – Police pepper spray the crowd.

9/11 and the collapse of the World Trade Towers is the other date usually selected as the stormy dawn of the new millennium.

Perhaps the most profound response to that terrorism was the first:

Tens of thousands of New Yorkers who walked away from danger together, on foot, as citizens familiar with their streets and as human beings willing to offer aid to strangers, filling avenues like a grim parade, turning the Brooklyn Bridge into a pedestrian route, eventually turning Union Square into an agora for public mourning and public debate.

Above: Brooklyn Bridge, New York City, 11 September 2001

Those hundreds of thousands living in public, unarmed, engaged and equal, were the opposite of the secrecy and violence that characterized both the attacks and Bush’s revenge (and unrelated war in Iraq).

Above: As Dan Bartlett, Deputy Assistant to the President, points to news footage of the World Trade Center, US President George W. Bush gathers information about the terrorist attack from a classroom at Emma E. Booker Elementary School in Sarasota, Florida.

Also pictured from left are: CIA daily briefer Michael Morell, Director of the White House Situation Room Deborah Loewer and Senior Adviser Karl Rove.

That much of the antiwar movement has also consisted of massive groups of walkers is not coincidental.

The best evidence of the potency of unarmed people walking together in the streets is the aggressive measures taken in the US and in the UK to control or altogether stop these crowds at the Republican National Convention in New York in August 2004, in Gleneagles (Scotland) during the G8 Summit a year later, as well as at any corporate globalization conference since 1999, be it the WTO, the International Monetary Fund (IMF), the World Bank, the World Economic Forum or the G8.

Above: Republican National Convention protests, Madison Square Garden, New York City, 30 August – 2 September 2004

Above: Gleneagles (Scotland) G8 Summit protests, 6 – 8 July 2005

Above: Map of G8 countries and the European Union

These summits at which the power of the few is openly pitted against that of the many have routinely acquired that temporary police states be built around them, with millions of pounds, dollars, euros, francs, yen or yuan spent on security forces, armaments, surveillance, fences and barriers.

A world brutalized in defense of brutal policy.

Against unarmed walkers.

But more insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space, and will to walk, and against the version of humanity that act embodies.

One force is the filling-up as “the time between“, the time of walking to or from a place, of meandering, of running errands.

That time has been deplored as a waste, reduced, and its remainder filled with earphones playing music and mobile phones relaying conversations.

The very ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the useless, often seems to be evaporating, as does appreciation of being outside – including outside the familiar.

Mobile phone conversations seem to serve as a buffer against solitude, silence, thought, and encounters with the unknown.

Technology, as such, is hard to finger as a culprit, since the global march of 15 February 2003 was coordinated on the Internet.

But technology’s commercial deployment is often against those things that are free in both senses monetary and political.

Obesity and its related health crises is becoming more and more of a pandemic as people in more parts of the world become immobilized and overfed from childhood on.

A downward spiral where the inactive body becomes less and less capable of action.

That obesity is not just circumstantial – due to a world of digital amusements and parking lots, of sprawl and suburbs – but conceptual in origin, as people forget that their bodies could be adequate to the challenges that face them and a pleasure to use.

They perceive and imagine their bodies as essentially passive, a treasure or a burden, but not a tool for work and travel.

Promotional material for motorized Segway scooters, for example, asserts that travelling short distances in cities and even warehouses is a challenge that only machines can solve.

The inadequacy of feet alone to go the distance has been erased, along with the millennia we got around before machines.

The fight against this collapse of imagination and engagement may be as important as the battles for political freedom, because only by recuperating a sense of inherent power can we begin to resist both oppressions and the erosion of the vital body in action.

Above: Scene from Pixar/Disney film WALL-E (2008)

As the climate heats up and oil runs out, this recovery is going to be very important, more important perhaps than alternative fuels and the other modes of continuing down the motorized route rather than reclaiming the alternatives.

Most industrial zone human beings need to rethink time, space, and their own bodies before they will be engaged to be as urbane and as pedestrian as their predecessors.

While walking, the body and the mind can work together, so that thinking becomes almost a physical, rhythmic act.

Spirituality and sexuality both enter in.

The great walkers often move through both urban and rural places in the same way.

Past and present are brought together when you walk as the Ancients did or relive some event in history or your own life by retracing its route.

Each walk moves through space like a thread through fabric, sewing it up together into a continuous experience – so unlike the way airplanes, cars and train travel chop up time and space.

This continuity is one of the things we lost in the Industrial Age.

But we can choose to reclaim it, again and again.

And some do.

The fields and streets are waiting.

Like walking, like record players and VHS tapes and vinyl records, landline phones are being embraced by nostalgic fans as an antidote to an increasingly digital way of life.

First came the rhinestone-encrusted rotary.

Then the cherry-red lips.

After that, the cheeseburger.

By the summer of 2021, Chanell Karr had amassed a collection of six landline phones.

Her most recent, an orange corded model made as a promotional item for the 1986 film Pretty in Pink was purchased in June 2021.

Though Karr has only one of them – a more subdued V-Tech phone – hooked up, all are in working order.

During the pandemic, I wanted to disconnect from all of the things that distract you on a Smartphone.“, said Karr (30), who works in marketing and ticketing at a music venue near her home in Alexandria, Kentucky.

I just wanted to get back to the original analog ways of having a landline.

Once a kitchen staple, bedside companion, and plot device on sitcoms, such as Sex and the City and Seinfeld, the landline phone has all but been replaced by its newer smarter wireless counterpart.

In 2003, more than 90% of respondents to a survey conducted by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) said they had an operational landline in their homes.

As of June 2021, that number – which includes Internet-connected phones and those wired the old-fashioned way (via copper lines running from a home to a local junction box) – had dropped to just over 30%.

But like record players and VHS tapes, landline phones are being embraced by nostalgic fans who say their non-scrollable and non-strollable nature is an antidote to screen fatigue and over-multitasking.

The crescent shape of many phone receivers, users say, is a more natural comfortable fit against a cheek than the planar body of a Smartphone.

And with a non-cordless device, one must commit more to the act of the conversation.

The phone call becomes more intentional.

In January 2022, Emily Kennedy, a communications manager in the Canadian public service, started using an old Calamine-lotion-pink rotary phone from her father’s office as a way to detach from her work in social media.

Ironically, it was on Twitter where Kennedy got the idea.

Above: Logo of American social networking site, Twitter

When Rachel Syme, a staff writer at the New Yorker tweeted in January about a landline phone that she had hooked up via Bluetooth, Kennedy was one of many who replied saying that Syme had inspired them to set up one of their own.

Having my old phone as an object in my house is an identity signal that I like a slower pace.”, said Kennedy (38) who lives in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.

Like Syme and many other modern users of analog phones, Kennedy doesn’t have her landline copper-wired – so it doesn’t have its own number – but uses a Bluetooth attachment to connect it to her Smartphone’s cellular service.

(In other words, when she is connected, she can take a cellphone call on the landline.)

Matt Jennings has worked at Old Phone Works, a company in Kingston, Ontario, that refurbishes and sells landline phones, since 2011.

Now its general manager, Jennings (35) said that in the past two years, customers’ demand for candy-coloured rotary phones from the 1950s and 1960s has skyrocketed.

Almost a year and a half ago, it absolutely exploded.”, Jennings said.

Over the past six or seven years, we might get one or two orders for them.

Now it is probably one of our primary sources of revenue.”

Of what has motivated the recent desire for landline phones, it is a return to basics.”, Jennings said.

You can’t really go anywhere with a corded phone.

You are basically stuck within a three-foot radius of the base.

You can have a real conversation without being distracted.

As appealing as landline phones may be, even their most ardent fans recognize it is basically impossible to use them exclusively.

Alex McConnell (28), a personal banker at Key Bank in Fort Collins, Colorado, has a Western Electric rotary phone wired to copper lines at his home.

On 14 February 2022, McConnell did not celebrate Valentine’s Day, but the 146th anniversary of Alexander Graham Bell submitting the patent application for the telephone.

Above: Alexander Graham Bell (1847 – 1922)

I prepared a meal with Bell peppers and Graham crackers.“, McConnell said.

Then I made a circular cake that I used blue icing to put the Bell logo on and the original patent number for the telephone.

His landline phone is not only more reliable than a cellphone, McConnell said, but also encouraged him to memorize friends’ phone numbers, which he considers a form of intimacy.

Since I actually have to dial my friends’ phone numbers, I find it really does help me connect them to memory.“, McConnell said.

But even he cannot avoid the call of modern life.

My secret sorrow is that I do have a cellphone.

What is not mentioned here in this article is what is considered an advantage of a mobile phone is for me a great disadvantage of this technology – mobility.

Certainly, I can see the advantages of a mobile phone for emergencies.

You have an accident on the road or you are unavoidably late for a meeting, then a mobile phone is truly a useful tool to have.

But this is how technology should be viewed, in my opinion, as a tool handy to have when needed, but not as something we are totally dependent upon, that we are totally addicted to.

I view a mobile phone much as I view a hammer.

I am glad I have one, but I do not want to use it all the time for everything.

I also do not wish to have it on all the time.

There is a certain freedom in not being contactable, to decide when I will choose to reach out to the world, rather than having the world disturb me whenever it so chooses.

And I admit there is something unsettling about knowing that my phone can be used to locate me wherever I am.

Does the world need to know where I am all the time?

I have nothing to hide, but there is a feeling of freedom in going where I want without wondering whether or not my choice of location might cause someone’s disapproval.

I enjoy social media, but in small doses.

I do not want to become one of those people whose first waking and every subsequent moment is to check their phone for messages, news or social media postings.

I like, what my students call “old people’s media“, Facebook, for it allows me more freedom and length of expression than I have seen in other modern applications.

But there is often more negativity expressed on social media than positivity, so I judiciously limit my exposure to it.

I don’t have a landline, for wandering freelance teachers cannot be trusted to remain for too long in one location.

But at home, I keep my cellphone in a different room than the one I am in, with it on in vibration mode only.

Those far from me know that I will eventually return their calls or respond to their messages.

My employer, a mere 15-minute walk from my apartment, can reach me when the vibrations are heard against the wooden counter of my kitchen in my silent lodgings.

I am not uncomfortable with silence.

I welcome it.

I try to wean myself of the habit of looking at my phone during idle moments and I try to resist the urge to monitor the news, which for the most part, is generally not a very positive addiction to have or anything I have any control over.

I do not advocate my habits to others.

I simply say what I do and if someone wishes to emulate me then that is their privilege not my pressure.

I will be honest here.

I am not sure if I like political commentator/comedian Bill Maher or not, but, give the Devil his due, he does say things that are thought provoking.

Above: Bill Maher

Recent comments about Tuesday 8 November (US Midterm Election Day) have made me ponder the wisdom beneath his bluster.

Well, we had a good run.

As everything in America is about to change in a very fundamental way, rules are about to go out the window.

Tuesday is Election Day.

I know I should tell you to vote in what is, honest to God, the most important election ever.

So, OK, you should vote.

Above: Flag of the United States of America

And it should be for the one party that still stands for democracy’s preservation.

Above: Logo of the US Democratic Party

But it is also a waste of breath, because if anyone who believes that is already voting, and the one who needs to learn isn’t watching, and no one in America can be persuaded of anything anymore anyway.

The 6 January hearings turns out changed nobody’s mind.

Above: A crowd erected gallows hangs near the United States Capitol during the 2021 storming of the United States Capitol

Democrat Jamie Raskin said the hearings would tell a story that would really blow the roof off the house.

Above: Jamie Raskin

No, that was Hurricane Ian.

Above: Hurricane Ian on 28 September 2022

The hearings proved not long, the Committee did a masterful job laying out the case that we live in a partisan America now, so it is like doing stand up when half the crowd only speaks Mandarin.

No matter how good the material is, it is not going to go over.

After all the hearings, the percentage of Americans who thought Trump did nothing wrong went UP 3 points.

That is America now.

Above: Donald Trump (US President: 2017 – 2021)

It is liking to win an argument in a marriage.

Even when you are right it still gets you nothing.

Ben Franklin said:

“America is a republic, if you can keep it.”

Well, we can’t.

Above: Benjamin Franklin (1706 – 1790)

Unless a miracle happens on Tuesday, we didn’t.

Democracy is on the ballot and unfortunately it is going to lose.

And once it is gone, it is gone.

It is not something you can change your mind about and reverse.

Republicans will take control of Congress and next year they will begin impeaching Biden and never stop.

“How” won’t matter and it won’t make sense, but Biden will be a crippled duck when he goes up before the 2024 Trump – Kari Lake ticket.

Above: Kari Lake

And even if Trump loses, it doesn’t matter.

On Inaugural Day 2025, he is going to show up whether he is on the list or not.

This time he is not going to take No for an answer, because this time he will have behind him the army of election deniers that is being elected on Tuesday.

There are almost 300 candidates on the ballot this year who don’t believe in ballots and they will be the ones writing the rules and monitoring how votes are counted in 2024.

The facts, the policies, the behaviour don’t matter to anyone anymore.

Trump could be filmed throwing a baby off a bridge and still win.

This really is the crossing of the Rubicon moment when the election deniers are elected which is often how countries slide into authoritarianism, not with tanks in the streets, but by electing the people who then have no intention of ever giving it back.

Above: Julius Caesar (100 – 44 BCE), depicted as pausing on the banks of the Rubicon, 10 January 49 BCE –

The phrase “crossing the Rubicon” is an idiom that means “passing a point of no return“.

Its meaning comes from allusion to the crossing of the river Rubicon by Julius Caesar.

His crossing of the river precipitated civil war, which ultimately led to Caesar’s becoming dictator for life (dictator perpetuo).

Caesar had been appointed to a governorship over a region that ranged from southern Gaul to Illyricum.

As his term of governorship ended, the Senate ordered him to disband his army and return to Rome.

As it was illegal to bring armies into Italy (the northern border of which was marked by the river Rubicon) his crossing the river under arms amounted to insurrection, treason and a declaration of war on the state.

According to some authors, he uttered the phrase alea iacta est (“the die is cast“) before crossing.

The Republican up for Wisconsin governor just said that if elected Republicans will never lose another election.

Above: Tim Michels, Republican nominee in 2022 Wisconsin gubernatorial election

This is how it happens.

Hitler was elected.

Above: Adolf Hitler (1889 – 1945)

So was Mussolini, Putin, Erdoğan and Viktor Orban.

Above: Benito Mussolini (1883 – 1945)

Above: Russian President Vladimir Putin

Above: Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Above: Hungarian Prime Minister Viktor Orbán

This is the “it can’t happen to us” moment that is happening to us right now.

We just don’t feel it yet.

We are the Titanic just after the iceberg hit.

Above: RMS Titanic leaves Southampton, England, 10 April 1912

And, honestly, too many Americans just don’t care and won’t even care after it happens, because they never followed politics to begin with.

They were never taught in school what democratic government was supposed to look like.

So how can they be at losing something they never knew they had?

You could try and tell them that we will no longer have a system of checks and balances.

They will have an answer for that:

“What’s checks and balances?”

Above: Checks and balances

Democracy’s hard.

Athens did not have to deal with Fox News or the Smart phone that made everybody stupid, and they only lasted 200 years.

So, our 246 doesn’t look so bad.

Above: The Acropolis, Athens, Greece

But before we do go, I would like to say a little farewell to some of the things that really did make America great now we are going to lose forever.

Like the peaceful transfer of power, the jewel in our crown, that thing that so many other nations couldn’t pull off and we always did.

Oh, well.

Above: Crown Jewels of Austria

The Bill of Rights –

When there is no accountability in the ballot box there are no actual rights.

Above: Draft of the US Bill of Rights

Look, Generalissimo Trump is not going to bring back child labour or end social security or resegregate the water fountains.

Above: African-American man drinking at a “colored” drinking fountain in a streetcar terminal in Oklahoma City, 1939

He doesn’t hate Jews.

Above: “Selection” of Hungarian Jews on the ramp at Auschwitz II – Birkenau in German-occupied Poland, around May 1944.

Jews were sent either to work or to the gas chamber.

The photograph is part of the collection known as the Auschwitz Album.

The Auschwitz Album is the only surviving visual evidence of the process leading to mass murder at Auschwitz-Birkenau.

The album was found it in the Mittelbau – Dora concentration camp in 1945.

But make no mistake it will be an entirely different way of life for many because our elections will just be for show, like China or Russia or any other places Trump says are “strong”.

Above: Flag of Russia

Above: Flag of China

Above: Flag of North Korea

Free speech?

Well, he’s a man who has always taken criticism well.

But I won’t count on that one lasting.

I wouldn’t count on freedom of religion lasting.

Q-Anon and the other shock troops of the Trump takeover of the Republican Party are all quasi-religious entities who want a Christian government.

Above: QAnon flag featuring the Q logo and the movement’s prominent slogan “Where we go one, we go all“, at a Second Amendment rally in Richmond, Virginia, 20 January 2020

Above: Logo of the US Republican Party

Oh, and the FBI might be replaced by an army of Proud Boys under the leadership of Michael Flynn.

Above: Logo of the Proud Boys, an American far-right, neo-fascist, white nationalist, and exclusively male organization that promotes and engages in political violence in the US.

It has been called a street gang and was designated as a terrrorist group in Canada and New Zealand.

The Proud Boys are known for their opposition to left wing and progressive groups and their support for former US President Donald Trump.

Above: Michael Flynn, a retired US Army Lieutenant General who was the 24th US National Security Advisor for the first 22 days of the Trump administration, he resigned in light of reports that he had lied regarding conversations with the Russian ambassador to the US Sergey Kislyak.

Flynn’s military career included a key role in shaping US counterterrorism strategy and dismantling insurgent networks in the Afghanistan and Iraq Wars.

He was given numerous combat arms, conventional and special operations senior intelligence assignments.

He became the 18th director of the Defense Intelligence Agency in July 2012 until his forced retirement from the military in August 2014.

During his tenure he gave a lecture on leadership at the Moscow headquarters of the Russian military intelligence directorate GRU (the foreign military intelligence agency of the General Staff of the Armed Forces of the Russian Federation), the first American official to be admitted entry to the headquarters.

After leaving the military, in October 2014 he established Flynn Intel Group, which provided intelligence services for businesses and governments, including in Turkey.

In December 2015, Flynn was paid $45,000 to deliver a Moscow speech at the ten-year anniversary celebration of RT (a state-controlled Russian international television network), where he sat next to Russian President Vladimir Putin at his banquet table.

In February 2016, Flynn became a national security advisor to Trump for his 2016 presidential campaign.

In March 2017, Flynn retroactively registered as a foreign agent, acknowledging that in 2016 he had conducted paid lobbying work that may have benefited Turkey’s government.

On 22 January 2017, Flynn was sworn in as the National Security Advisor.

On 13 February 2017, he resigned after information surfaced that he had misled Vice President Mike Pence and others about the nature and content of his communications with Sergey Kislyak.

Flynn’s tenure as the National Security Advisor is the shortest in the history of the position.

In December 2017, Flynn formalized a deal with Special Counsel Robert Mueller to plead guilty to a felony count of “willfully and knowingly” making false statements to the FBI about the Kislyak communications.

He agreed to cooperate with the Special Counsel’s investigation.

In June 2019, Flynn dismissed his attorneys and retained Sidney Powell, who on the same day wrote to Attorney General Bill Barr seeking his assistance in exonerating Flynn.

Powell had discussed the case on Fox News and spoken to President Trump about it on several occasions.

Two weeks before his scheduled sentencing, in January 2020 Flynn moved to withdraw his guilty plea, claiming government vindictiveness and breach of the plea agreement.

At Barr’s direction, the Justice Department filed a court motion to drop all charges against Flynn on 7 May 2020.

Presiding federal judge Emmet Sullivan ruled the matter to be placed on hold to solicit amicus curiae (a person or organization who requests to provide legal submissions so as to offer a relevant alternative or additional perspective regarding the matters in dispute). briefs from third parties.

Powell then asked the DC Circuit Court of Appeals to compel Sullivan to drop the case, but her request was denied.

On 25 November 2020, Flynn was issued a presidential pardon by Trump.

On 8 December 2020, Judge Sullivan dismissed the criminal case against Flynn, stating he probably would have denied the Justice Department motion to drop the case.

On 4 July 2020, Flynn pledged an oath to the pro-Trump QAnon conspiracy theory.

As Trump sought to overturn the results of the 2020 presidential election in which he was defeated, Flynn suggested the President should suspend the Constitution, silence the press, and hold a new election under military authority.

Flynn later met with Trump and their attorney Powell in the Oval Office to discuss the President’s options.

Trump denied reports that Flynn’s martial law idea had been discussed. 

On 8 January 2021, Twitter permanently banned Flynn, Powell and others who promoted QAnon.

Flynn has since become a prominent leader in a Christian nationalist movement, organizing and recruiting for what he characterizes as a spiritual and political war.

Things will not be decided by the rule of law.

That one was a real jewel.

Maybe our finest hour as Americans was after World War II when we gave the defeated Nazis fair trial just as Robert Jackson said:

“Voluntarily submitting our captive enemies to the judgment of the law was one of the most significant tributes that Power has ever paid to Reason.”

Above: Judges’ panel of the international military tribunal, Nuremberg Trials, 30 November 1945 – 1 October 1946

Well, Power will soon not be paying any more tributes to Reason.

Not in America anyway.

Above: Chief US prosecutor at the Nuremberg Trials, Robert Jackson (1892 – 1954)

So, I urge you to vote, but I have always been a realist.

I’m afraid that democracy is like the McRib:

It’s here now, it will be around for a little bit longer, so enjoy it while you can.

Above: McDonald’s McRib sandwich, as bought in America

There is a manner about Maher that is somewhat abrasive to me, but sometimes harshness is required when delivering an important message.

He speaks unsettling inconvenient truth to the apathetic and the ignorant who have the courage to watch him and ponder what he has to say.

He targets many topics including religion, political correctness, and the mass media.

He is a supporter of animal rights, the legalization of cannabis, birth control and universal health care.

He has been unafraid to speak his mind, regardless of how politically incorrect he may appear.

He controversially suggested that the 9/11 terrorists did not act in a cowardly manner (in rebuttal to President Bush’s statement calling them cowards).

Maher said:

We have been the cowards.

Lobbing cruise missiles from 2,000 miles away.

That’s cowardly.

Staying in the airplane when it hits the building.

Say what you want about it.

Not cowardly.

Above: Rescue workers climb over and dig through piles of rubble from the destroyed World Trade Center as the American flag billows over the debris. 19 Septmeber 2001, New York City

Maher later clarified that his comment was not anti-military in any way whatsoever, referencing his well-documented longstanding support for the American military.

Above: The Pentagon, headquarters of the US Department of Defense, Arlington, Virginia

In late May 2005, Alabama Congressman Spencer Bachus sent a letter to Time Warner’s board of directors requesting Maher’s show Real Time be cancelled after remarks Maher made after noting the military had missed its recruiting goals by 42%.

Bachus said he felt the comments were demeaning to the military and treasonous.

Maher stated his highest regard and support for the troops and asked why the Congressman criticized him instead of doing something about the recruitment problem.

Above: Congressman Spencer Bachus

Above: Logo of Warner Media (1972 – 2022), formerly Time Warner

Maher often eschews political labels, referring to himself as “practical“. 

He identifies as liberal and stands against political correctness.

In his words:

The difference is that liberals protect people and PC people protect feelings.

Maher counts himself as a “9/11 liberal“, noting that he differentiates himself from many mainstream liberals in saying that not all religions are alike and that he is not bigoted in criticizing a particular religion.

He said in a later interview:

It’s ridiculous to label criticism of a religion as a phobia of a religion.

I’m going to criticize any person or group that violates liberal principles.”

(I agree with Maher here in respect to criticizing religion.

For example, I am not opposed to a Muslim woman wearing or not wearing a hijab or head covering, if it is her choice.)

Above: Iranian women wearing hijab in Tehran, 4 May 2017

Maher favours the ending of corporate welfare (the government’s bestowal of money grants, tax breaks or other special favourable treatment for corporations) and federal funding of non-profits.

Above: Ralph Nader, an American political activist, author, lecturer, and attorney noted for his involvement in consumer protection, environmentalism, and government reform causes.

The term “corporate welfare” was reportedly coined in 1956 by him.

Maher also favors the legalization of gambling and prostitution.

Above: Caraveggio’s The Cardsharps (1594)

(I agree with the first sentence (above Nader).

I need to consider soberly the wisdom or folly of the second.)

Above: Auguste Rodin’s The Thinker, Paris, France

Maher describes himself as an environmentalist.

He has spoken in favor of the Kyoto Treaty on Global Warming on his show Real Time.

(The Kyoto Protocol was an international treaty which extended the 1992 UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) that commits state parties to reduce greenhouse gas emissions, based on the scientific consensus that global warming is occurring and that manmade CO2 emissions are driving it.

The Kyoto Protocol was adopted in Kyoto, Japan on 11 December 1997 and entered into force on 16 February 2005.

There were 192 parties to the Protocol in 2020.)

Above: Kiyomizu Temple, Kyoto, Japan

Maher often criticizes industry figures involved in environmental pollution.

(A valid discussion worthy of future commentary here.)

Maher has been critical of the #MeToo movement (a social movement against sexual abuse, sexual harassment and rape culture, in which people publicize their experiences of sexual abuse or sexual harassment), describing it in February 2018 as McCarthyite (the practice of making false or unfounded accusations especially when done in a public and attention-grabbing manner).

Above: Joseph McCarthy (1908 – 1957)

Above: Typical US anti-communist literature of the 1950s, specifically addressing the entertainment industry

Although Maher welcomed Obama’s electoral victory, he subjected him to criticism after he took office for not acting more boldly on health care reform and other progressive issues.

Above: Barack Obama (US President: 2009 – 2017)

In August 2019, Maher said an economic recession would be “worth it” if Donald Trump does not get re-elected in 2020.

He said:

We have survived many recessions.

We can’t survive another Donald Trump term.

Above: Will the real Donald Trump please shut up, please shut up?

Maher highlighted Trump’s own public references to Maher’s assertions that Trump was “not going to leave” and quoted Trump’s 14 March 2019, assertion that “I have the support of the police, the military, the bikers” and “the tough people“, citing this as evidence that Trump would seek to remain in office by force.

Above: Outside during the US Capitol during the 6 January 2021 attack on the building

Maher predicted there would be violence by armed Trump supporters attempting to keep Trump in power and criticized Democratic Party politicians for not taking the threat seriously:

So my question to all Democratic candidates is:

What’s the plan?

If you win, and the next day he claims he’s voiding the election because of irregularities he’s hearing about, what do you do?

What do you do when the crowd marches on Washington?

This is a scary moment.

And when I’ve asked Democrats:

‘What do we do if he doesn’t go?’

Their answer is always some variation of ‘We have to win big!’

First of all:

NO!

No, we don’t have to win by a landslide!

I am so sick of Democrats volunteering to play by two different sets of rules.

That’s the new paradigm?

Republicans can win by one vote, but we’re not legitimate unless it’s a landslide?

And two:

Do you really think it would matter if it was?

That they would suddenly get rational about math and facts?

They believe Hillary Clinton ran a pedophile ring out of a pizza parlor!

Above: Hillary Clinton

On 16 April 2021, Maher called media coverage of the COVID-19 pandemic “panic porn” and added that:

When all of our sources for medical information have an agenda to spin us, yeah, you wind up with a badly misinformed population, including on the left.”

In regards to his comments on these 2022 US Midterm Elections, regardless of the results, I am cautious of fully agreeing with his alarmist sentiments of the inevitability of a Republican win leading to the loss of democracy in America.

That being said, there are certain uncomfortable truths in his voicing his concerns about the threat demagogues such as Trump pose.

Maher’s refers indirectly to Sinclair Lewis here.

Above: Sinclair Lewis (1885 – 1951)

It Can’t Happen Here is a 1935 dystopian political novel, which describes the rise of a US dictator similar to how Adolf Hitler gained power.

In 1936, Senator Berzelius “Buzz” Windrip, a charismatic and power-hungry politician from an unnamed US state, enters the presidential election campaign on a populist platform, promising to restore the country to prosperity and greatness.

Portraying himself as a champion of “the forgotten man” (a political concept in the US centered around those whose interests have been neglected) and traditional American values, Windrip defeats President Franklin Delano Roosevelt for the Democratic nomination, and then easily beats his Republican opponent, Senator Walt Trowbridge, in the November election.

Above: Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945)

Although having previously foreshadowed some authoritarian measures to reorganize the US government, Windrip rapidly outlaws dissent, incarcerates political enemies in concentration camps, and trains and arms a paramilitary force called the Minute Men (named after the Revolutionary War militias of the same name), who terrorize citizens and enforce the policies of Windrip and his corporatist (a political system in which the economy is collectively managed by employers, workers and state officials by formal mechanisms at the national level, wherein its supporters claim that corporatism could better recognize or “incorporate” every divergent interest into the state organically, unlike majority-rules democracy which could marginalize specific interests.) regime.

Above: The Lexington Minuteman, Lexington, Massachusetts

One of Windrip’s first acts as President is to eliminate the influence of the US Congress, which draws the ire of many citizens as well as the legislators themselves.

The Minute Men respond to protests against Windrip’s decisions harshly, attacking demonstrators with bayonets.

In addition to these actions, Windrip’s administration, known as the Corpo government, curtails women’s and minority rights, and eliminates individual states by subdividing the country into administrative sectors (akin to The Hunger Games).

The government of these sectors is managed by Corpo authorities, usually prominent businessmen or Minute Men officers.

Those accused of crimes against the government appear before kangaroo courts  presided over by military judges.

(A kangaroo court is a court that ignores recognized standards of law or justice, carries little or no official standing in the territory within which it resides, and is typically convened ad hoc.

A kangaroo court may ignore due process and come to a predetermined conclusion.

The term may also apply to a court held by a legitimate judicial authority which intentionally disregards the court’s legal or ethical obligations, such as a show trial.

A kangaroo court court could also develop when the structure and operation of the forum result in an inferior brand of adjudication.

A common example of this is when institutional disputants (“repeat players“) have excessive and unfair structural advantages over individual disputants (“one-shot players“).

The term comes from the notion of justice proceeding “by leaps“, like a kangaroo – in other words, “jumping over” (intentionally ignoring) evidence that would be in favour of the defendant.)

Despite these dictatorial and “quasi-draconian” measures, a majority of Americans approve of them, seeing them as painful but necessary steps to restore US power.

(Make America great again…..)

Open opponents of Windrip, led by Senator Trowbridge, form an organization called the New Underground (named after the Underground Railroad), helping dissidents escape to Canada and distributing anti-Windrip propaganda.

One recruit to the New Underground is Doremus Jessup, the novel’s protagonist, a traditional liberal and an opponent of both corporatist and communist theories, the latter of which Windrip’s administration suppresses.

Above: The Underground Railroad was not an actual railroad, but a network of secret routes and safe houses used by black slaves in the United States to escape to free states and Canada.

Jessup’s participation in the organization results in the publication of a periodical called The Vermont Vigilance, in which he writes editorials decrying Windrip’s abuses of power.

(Even before Windrip’s election, Jessup brings up the possibility of fascism coming to America, but Francis Tasbrough, the wealthy owner of a quarry in Jessup’s hometown of Fort Beulah, Vermont, dismisses it with the remark that it simply “can’t happen here“, hence the novel’s title.)

Above: Flag of Vermont

Shad Ledue, the local district commissioner and Jessup’s former hired man, resents his old employer.

Ledue eventually discovers Jessup’s actions and has him sent to a concentration camp.

Ledue subsequently terrorizes Jessup’s family and particularly his daughter Sissy, whom he unsuccessfully attempts to seduce.

Sissy discovers evidence of corrupt dealings on the part of Ledue, which she exposes to Francis Tasbrough, a one-time friend of Jessup and Ledue’s superior in the administrative hierarchy.

Tasbrough has Ledue imprisoned in the same camp as Jessup, where inmates Ledue had sent there organize Ledue’s murder.

After a relatively brief incarceration, Jessup escapes when his friends bribe one of the camp guards.

He flees to Canada, where he rejoins the New Underground.

He later serves the organization as a spy, passing along information and urging locals to resist Windrip.

Above: Flag of Canada

In time, Windrip’s hold on power weakens as the economic prosperity he promised does not materialize, and increased numbers of disillusioned Americans, including Vice President Perley Beecroft, flee to both Canada and Mexico.

Windrip also angers his Secretary of State, Lee Sarason, who had served earlier as his chief political operative and adviser.

Sarason and Windrip’s other lieutenants, including General Dewey Haik, seize power and exile the President to France.

Above: Flag of France

Sarason succeeds Windrip, but his extravagant and relatively weak rule creates a power vacuum in which Haik and others vie for power.

In a bloody putsch, Haik leads a party of military supporters into the White House, kills Sarason and his associates, and proclaims himself President.

The two coups cause a slow erosion of Corpo power, and Haik’s government desperately tries to arouse patriotism by launching an unjustified invasion of Mexico.

After slandering Mexico in state-run newspapers, Haik orders a mass conscription of young American men for the invasion of that country, infuriating many who had until then been staunch Corpo loyalists.

Riots and rebellions break out across the country, with many realizing the Corpos have misled them.

Above: Flag of Mexico

General Emmanuel Coon, among Haik’s senior officers, defects to the opposition with a large portion of his army, giving strength to the resistance movement.

Although Haik remains in control of much of the country, civil war soon breaks out as the resistance tries to consolidate its grasp on the Midwest.

The novel ends after the beginning of the conflict, with Jessup working as an agent for the New Underground in Corpo-occupied portions of southern Minnesota.

Above: Flag of Minnesota

What worries me about Lewis’ book and George Orwell’s Nineteen Eighty-four is that these were meant as cautionary tales, not instruction manuals.

I think that should Maher be as prescient about the outcome of the Midterms as he was about Trump’s reactions to losing the 2020 Presidential Elections, then a return to the past may hold a kernel of hope for the future.

Maher gives as one reason that too many Americans just don’t care about politics is that they were never taught in school what democratic government was supposed to look like.

I think therein lies a solution:

Education.

To be more precise, self-education.

Self-education converts a world which only a good world for those who can win at its ruthless game into a world good for all of us.

If there is one piece of advice I would like to share with my readers, from Max Schuster to Ronald Gross to you, it is that you should begin at once to choose some subject, some concept, some great idea (such as democracy) or event in history on which you can make yourself the world’s supreme expert.

Start a crash program immediately to qualify yourself for this self-assignment through reading, research and reflection.

I don’t mean the sort of expert who avoids all the small errors as he sweeps on to the grand fallacy.

I mean one who has the most knowledge, the deepest insight and the most audacious willingness to break new ground.

We must somehow figure out how to be a democracy of the intellect.

Knowledge must sit in the homes and heads of people with no ambition to control others and not up in the isolated seats of power.

Only if the adventure of knowing and understanding were shared as widely as possible will our civilization, will civilized society remain viable.

In the end, it is not an aristocracy of experts, scientific or otherwise, on whom we must depend, but on them AND ourselves.

The personal commitment of a man to his skill, the intellectual commitment and the emotional commitment working together as one, has made for our true progress as a species.

Every man, every civilization, has gone forward because of its engagement with what it has set itself to do.

Knowledge is our destiny.

Knowledge is our salvation.

The ascent of the human mind continues.

Participation in it, to the degree that our personal endowments permit, is self-declared.

Each of us should be warmly welcomes to make the finest contribution our talent and effort can fashion.

Universities have become intellectual museums.

We need to learn together what we need to know.

Academe has assumed a dominant role in our culture and society.

That dominance has blinded us to independent scholarship, to independent thinking.

Have we forgotten the great tradition of all those who achieved intellectual preeminence without benefit of a faculty position?

Academe is not the sole source of significant scholarship.

Fresh thinking, research and experimentation is needed in virtually every field, especially politics.

Above: Columbia University, New York City –

The alma mater (“nourishing mother“), is one of the most enduring symbols of the university.

The phrase was first used to describe the University of Bologna (Italy), founded in 1088.

I lean towards the lessons of history for guidance through the shoals of the present.

Socrates would teach students whatever they wanted to know, for whatever purpose, good or bad.

Socrates insisted that he did NOT have wisdom – that he merely loved it and hence should be called a philosopher, a mere lover of wisdom.

The Socratic amateur is not afraid to be a generalist and tackles the biggest and most complex problems without reducing them to techniques, but instead seeks to share and spread understanding, rather than to control and possess knowledge.

Above: Marble bust of Socrates (470 – 399 BCE), Louvre Museum, Paris, France

This tradition was exemplified by the wandering scholars of the 12th century whose allegiance was to learning, not to any temporal power.

Medieval universities arose out of the struggles of such scholars.

Above: Seal of the University of Bologna

Later, when the universities which they founded had in turn become moribund and institutionalized, once again it was independent scholars – founders of modern science like Galileo and Kepler – who founded learned societies outside of the universities, to explore new ideas and new ways of knowing which universities refuse to entertain.

Above: Galileo Galilei (1564 – 1642)

Above: Johannes Kepler (1571 – 1630)

Independent scholarship, independent thinking always arises as a challenge to the dangerous myth that serious thinking only goes on in established orthodox institutions, that learning is the exclusive possession of the professoriate.

In our own day of excessive bureaucratization, government control and professionalism in learning, the Socratic amateur is an urgently needed voice.

Intellectual commentary on our culture and society should be open and encouraged to the nonacademic thinker.

Matters of such moment, involving our basic values and principles, are too important to be left to the academics.

We need to apply our self-education to the betterment of our society and apply what we have learned to a cause or issue we care deeply about.

And knowing what to care deeply about begins with self-education.

I believe we should learn about politics, for what is truly at stake in politics is nothing less than how we should live, as individuals and as communities.

Our opinions matter, because we have been the capacity for individual thought and reasoning and because we are part of the human whole.

We need to decide for ourselves how we should live, how we should be governed.

Government should exist by the consent of the governed, by the will of the people.

Are we political, economic or religious animals?

Should we live in small city-states, nations or multinational empires?

What values should politics promote and protect?

Should wealth be owned privately or in common?

Our ideas have grown from the dramatic lives and times of those who came before us.

We need to be reminded that politics can be and should be a noble, inspiring and civilizing art.

To understand today’s political world, its strengths and weaknesses, its promise and dangers, we need to understand the foundation of politics and its architects past and present.

It is fashionable today to describe politics as a swamp.

For many it has become nothing more than a vulgar spectacle of deceit, ambition and opportunism.

Trust in our political institutions and leaders has sunk to new lows.

Politicians are held in greater contempt than for generations.

Voter anger and disenchantment are growing at an alarming rate.

Distracted by all the unseemly squabbling of politics, we end up allowing markets and bureaucrats to make decisions for us, leaving citizens resigned and alienated from politics-as-usual.

It is very hard to imagine that ideas, let alone ideals, could play any part in all of this.

Above: Niccolo Machiavelli, The Prince (1550)

But politics has always been a messy business, governed more by expediency and compromise than by lofty ideals and principles, however much lip service is paid to the latter.

It is usually a very rough and nasty game, a Game of Thrones, dominated by conflicting interests, emotions, wealth and power.

Much of the time it is just a low-down dirty business, an evil-smelling bog, as one 19th century British politician (Prime Minister Lord Rosebery) called it.

So shameful is political manoeuvring that it has largely been conducted behind closed doors.

No decent person, it has been said, wants to observe sausages or laws being made.

Above: Archibald Primrose, 5th Earl Rosebery (1847 – 1929)(UK Prime Minister: 1894 – 1895)

This common view of politics is partially true, but it is not the whole truth.

Perhaps more than in any other arena, politics shows humans at their worst and at their best.

We are all too familiar now with the worst, but we need to remind ourselves of the best in an age when it is not often apparent, but when it needs to be, given what is at stake.

Politics is actually a place where ideas and ideals meet concrete reality, where great words and great deeds mix with base motives and low intrigue.

At its best, politics can be “a great and civilizing human activity“, as the political theorist Bernard Crick described it in his defence of the art.

Above: British political theorist Bernard Crick (1929 – 2008)

Politics is the alternative to controlling people by force or fraud alone.

Politics can be and has been used for good and deliberate ends.

History provides abundant examples of this.

Politics is capable of a moral nobility and an intellectual depth foreign to the present age of reality TV and government by Twitter.

Politics is the arena in which the fate of our planet will be decided.

That is why, as citizens, we have a responsibility to engage with politics.

You may not care about politics but politics cares about you.

Above: Logo of US social networking site Twitter

Citizens should be informed, but they also need to be knowledgeable and wise.

Today we are inundated with information.

But knowledge and wisdom remain as scarce as ever.

Thanks to the miracle of digital technology, we are drowning in oceans of data, facts and opinions.

What we need now is not more information but more insight, not more data but more perspective, not more opinions but more wisdom.

Much of what is called information is misinformed.

Most opinions fall short of true knowledge and wisdom.

Even a superficial glance at the state of contemporary politics will dispel any illusion that the explosion of information has led to wiser citizens or politicians or improved the quality of public debate.

If anything, misinformation is winning over knowledge.

The news is incapable of explaining anything.

Its brief reports are like tiny shimmering soap bubbles bursting on the surface of a complex world.

It is all the more absurd then that news corporations pride themselves on accurately reporting the facts.

These facts are usually no more than the consequences and side effects of deeper underlying causes.

Even if you gobble down the latest images and reports from Syria every single day, it will not get you one jot further towards understanding the war.

Above: Flag of Syria

There is actually an inverse relationship:

The more images and frontline dispatches raining down on you, the less you will understand what is going on in the war and why.

News corporations and consumers both fall prey to the same mistake, confusing the presentation of facts with insight into the functional context of the world.

Facts, facts and more facts” is the marginalizing credo of nearly all news corporation.

We ought to try and understand the “generators” underlying these events.

We ought to be investigating the “engine room” behind them.

Sadly, shockingly few journalists are able to explain these causal relationships, because the processes that shape cultural, intellectual, economic, military, political and environmental events are mostly invisible.

They are complex, non-linear and hard for our brains to digest.

This is why news corporations focus on the easy stuff: anecdotes, scandals, celebrity gossip and natural disasters.

They are cheap to produce and easy to digest.

Worse still, the few journalists who do understand the “engine room” and are capable of writing about it are not given the space to do so – let alone time to think.

Why?

Because the bulk of readers would rather consume ten juicy morsels of news than a single thorough article.

Ten lurid little scandals generate more attention – and thus more advertising revenue – than one intelligent article of the same length.

I make my living off the evening news
Just give me something
Something I can use
People love it when you lose
They love dirty laundry

Well, I coulda been an actor
But I wound up here
I just have to look good
I don’t have to be clear
Come and whisper in my ear
Give us dirty laundry

Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down
Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down

Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down
Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em all around

Above: Will Ferrell (Ron Burgundy), Anchorman: The Legend of Ron Burgundy (2004)

We got the bubble headed
Bleached blonde
Comes on at five
She can tell you ’bout the plane crash
With a gleam in her eye
It’s interesting when people die
Give us dirty laundry

Above: Christina Applegate (Veronica Cornerstone), Anchorman 2: The Legend Continues (2013)

Can we film the operation?
Is the head dead yet?
You know the boys in the newsroom
Got a running bet
Get the widow on the set
We need dirty laundry

You don’t really need to find out
What’s going on
You don’t really want to know
Just how far it’s gone
Just leave well enough alone
Eat your dirty laundry

Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down
Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down

Kick ’em when they’re up
Kick ’em when they’re down
Kick ’em when they’re stiff
Kick ’em all around

Dirty little secrets
Dirty little lies
We got our dirty little fingers
In everybody’s pie
We love to cut you down to size
We love dirty laundry

We can do the Innuendo
We can dance and sing
When it’s said and done
We haven’t told you a thing
We all know that crap is king
Give us dirty laundry

News reports are nothing but dots and nobody has made the effort to connect them and solve the puzzle.

No matter how many news reports you consume, no image will ever emerge.

To see the bigger picture, you need the connecting lines.

You need the context, the mutual dependencies, the feedback, the immediate repercussions – and the consequences of these repercussions.

News is the opposite of understanding the world.

News suggests there are only events – events without context.

Yet the opposite is true.

Nearly everything that happens in the world is complex.

Implying these events are singular phenomena is a lie – a lie promulgated by news producers because it tickles our palates.

This is a disaster.

Consuming the news to “understand the world” is worse than not consuming any news at all.

Thomas Jefferson realized this as early as 1807:

The man who never looks into a newspaper is better informed than he who reads them.

Above: Thomas Jefferson (1743 – 1826) (US President: 1801 – 1809)

Facts get in the way of thought.

Your brain can drown in facts.

If you consume the news, you will be under the illusion that you understand the world.

This illusion can lead to overconfidence.

To choose wisdom, we should choose “a limited number of master thinkers and digest their works“, suggested the philosopher Seneca almost 2,000 years ago.

Above: Bust of Seneca the Younger (4 BCE – 65 CE), Antikensammlung, Berlin, Germany

We need to move beyond information to acquire knowledge and, from there, wisdom.

Information is about facts and is more specific.

Knowledge is more general and implies understanding and analysis.

Wisdom is the highest and deepest form of insight into the reality of something.

Perhaps the most nostalgic place to start is the library.

Knowledge is power.

Knowledge is our salvation.

Above: State and University Library, Aarhus, Denmark

At first glance it may be asked:

Why is the opinion of a Canadian upon US politics worthy of any regard?

America, for better or worse, is, at this time in history, the mightiest power on the planet.

What American political, military, economic, cultural and scientific institutions do has a decisive influence, for better or worse, on the lives of everyone everywhere on Earth.

With great power comes great responsibility.

It is the duty of everyone to hold America responsible for how it wields its power.

It is the duty of everyone to remind Americans that what they do affects the rest of the world.

In Europe in the weeks following 9/11, in the leading newspapers in Britain, Germany, France, Italy and Spain there was plenty of news coverage that both sympathized with the horror inflicted upon the United States and endorsed the right of the US to retaliate militarily.

Above: 9/11 Memorial South Pool, New York City

But there was also lots of coverage that cautioned against a military response, connected the attacks with America’s foreign policy and urged attention to the root causes of terrorism, not just to sensational symbols like Osama bin Laden.

Above: Osama bin Laden (1957 – 2011)

Bring the murderers to justice, but tackle the causes of these outrages“, the 14 September London Independent opined.

In Germany, the conservative tabloid Bild gave space to pacific as well as belligerent viewpoints.

One article quoted a German businessman’s letter to President Bush urging him to “punish the guilty, not the innocent women and children of Afghanistan“.

In the US, by contrast, the news media’s pronouncements were indistinguishable from the government’s.

Neither showed tolerance for anything less than full-throated outrage.

Correspondents wore American flag pins and civilian deaths in Afghanistan were dismissed as unworthy of news coverage.

Above: Flag of Afghanistan

When the American media finally examined the question of how the US appeared to the rest of the world, that richly complex subject was reduced to simplistic melodrama.

Above: Raising the flag at Ground Zero, 11 September 2001

Anyone voicing the opinions expressed by the Independent or Bild was accused of treasonous nonsense, as writer Susan Sontag discovered when she published an article in the New Yorker pointing out that American foreign policy had wreaked terrible damage on other countries in the past, so why all the surprise at being targeted now?

Above: Susan Sontag (1933 – 2004)

We need at all costs to understand.

We need to consider even explanations that may not flatter us.

We need to recognize that there is a crucial difference between explaining a given action and excusing that action.

The US in no way deserved 9/11.

There is never any excuse for terrorism.

That being said, the attacks will never be understood outside the context of American foreign policy and the resentment it engenders.

There are numerous global hot spots where US policies, rightly or wrongly, are controversial enough to feed rage.

Americans need reminding that they need to have an honest discussion about their conduct overseas.

Where is it wise?

Where is it unwise?

How often does it correspond to the values of democracy and freedom that they regularly invoke?

How important is it whether Americans practice what they preach?

If Americans want a healthy relationship with the six billion people they share the planet with, we all need to understand how we all are, how we all live, how we all think, and why.

45% of humanity lives on less than $2.00 a day.

Peace and prosperity are unlikely under such conditions.

The CIA itself has warned:

Groups feeling left behind by widening inequality will foster political, ethnic, ideological and religious extremism, along with the violence that accompanies it.

Foreigners have no less a stake in better understanding the United States.

At a time when the US and the rest of the world are increasingly intertwined through economics and technology, we still gaze at each other in mutual incomprehension.

How, foreigners ask, can America be so powerful yet so naive?

So ignorant of foreign nations, peoples and languages, and yet so certain that it knows what is best for everyone?

How can its citizens be so open and generous but its foreign policy so domineering?

Why is it shocked when the objects of its policies grumble or even strike back?

Americans should remain awed and fight to protect its founding ideals, but politically they live in a democracy that barely deserves the name.

The government lectures others on how to run elections, yet many Americans don’t vote.

The American economy is undemocratic, for many Americans feel alienated from a political system they correctly perceive as captive to the rich and powerful.

America is more and more divided between an elite that lives in cloistered luxury and a poor and middle class doomed to work hard but never get ahead.

American governments say they stand for freedom and sometimes they do.

But often they can be shamelessly hypocritical, siding with treacherous dictatorships that serve their perceived interests and overthrowing democracies that do not.

The United States has much to be proud of – and much to be ashamed of.

Just as any other nation, including my own.

If we face up to this unsurprising but powerful truth then we will begin to understand.

If we insist that we ignore our faults – and label anyone who refuses to be silent, a traitor – then we will never learn from our mistakes.

Uncomfortable truths do not go away just because powerful voices want them shouted down.

Inconvenient truths do not disappear just because we choose to ignore them.

I don’t pretend to understand America and I believe many Americans themselves don’t understand America.

As American writer John Steinbeck wrote:

The United States is complicated, paradoxical, bullheaded, shy, cruel, boisterous, unspeakably dear and very beautiful.

Above: John Steinbeck (1902 – 1968)

As the global outpouring of sympathy following 9/11 illustrated, the rest of the world harbours great affection for Americans along with other, less enthusiastic feelings.

The vast majority of foreigners differentiate between Americans as people – whom they generally like – and American power and foreign policy, which are far less admired.

Most foreigners recognize plainly enough that it is in their own interest to understand America as clearly as possible, because what the American government decides about economic policy, military action and cultural mores affect everyone everywhere.

Americans need to educate themselves about the values they claim to espouse and hold those values dear.

Americans need to educate themselves about the world as it is rather than what they think it should be.

The world is watching.

I think we need to relish nostalgia – the nostalgia of the library, the nostalgia of the walk.

Learn from history.

Knowledge is our salvation.

Our voices united is an expression of that knowledge.

Nostalgia might be our salvation.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Rolf Dobelli, Stop Reading the News / Graeme Garrard and James Bernard Murphy, How to Think Politically / Ronald Gross, The Independent Scholar’s Handbook / Don Henley, Dirty Laundry (song) / Mark Hertsgaard, The Eagle’s Shadow / Bill Mayer, “Democracy’s Deathbed“, Real Time, 5 November 2022 / Hilary Reid, “Too much screen time? Landline phones offer a lifeline“, New York Times, 22 March 2022 / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust

 

Swiss Miss and the Mama of the Mountains

Eskişehir, Turkey, Tuesday 9 April 2022

Psychology, not one of my strengths, is a topic on my mind these days.

I find myself from time to time in the midst of psychological conflict with a wife who cannot comprehend that my search for personal happiness cannot revolve around being with her constantly, that I must be fulfilled in all the roles a man must do, besides husband.

I am engaged in mental battle with a colleague at work in Eskişehir who desires me to humble myself and apologize to her for a wrong I neither meant nor directed at her.

Above: Sazova Park, Eskişehir, Turkey

I am reading Orhan Pamuk’s The Museum of Innocence slowly and minutely, finding myself disturbed by the plot therein.

I find myself remembering an evening meeting at the school with a student who is a psychiatrist by trade.

I had great difficulty in sticking to the script of my Encounter (the Wall Street English name for the language elicitation sessions we have) and found myself quizzing her as to the nature of her profession:

What was most difficult about her job?

What was most fulfilling about her job?

How did her job affect her personal life?

As a father figure to most of the people with whom I am acquainted with in Eskişehir I find myself a witness and councillor to the relationships they are engaged in.

Somehow they equate age with wisdom.

Though it is true that I know a thing or two because I have seen a thing or two, this does in no way negate the application of the adage “no fool like an old fool” to my character.

A friend has confessed to me their struggle between the desires of the day and the longings for tomorrow.

There is a romance here, but is there a future here?

There may be a future out there, but will there be romance over there?

Tough call.

Tough decision.

A hard choice between two uncertainties.

The “out there” is presently focused on Vietnam where potential employment awaits.

All I know of Vietnam is that which I read.

My experience with the ‘Nam is limited to the perspective of my friend Swiss Miss (Heidi Hoi) and her time spent there.

But perhaps the experience of my Swiss friend might be instructive for my Eskişehir friend?

Thus I return to Heidi‘s story…..

Sa Pa, Vietnam, March 2019

Sa Pa is a mountain town – home to a great diversity of ethnic minority peoples.

If you were expecting a quaint alpine town, recalibrate your expectations.

Modern tourism development has seen Sapa’s skyline continually thrust upwards.

But you’re not here to hang out in town.

Above: Sa Pa, Vietnam

This is northern Vietnam’s premier trekking base, from where hikers launch themselves into a surrounding countryside of cascading rice terraces and tiny hill-tribe villages that seem a world apart.

Once you’ve stepped out into the lush fields, you’ll understand the Sapa area’s real charm.

Most of the ethnic minority people work their land on sloping terraces since the vast majority of the land is mountainous.

Their staple foods are rice and corn.

Rice, by its very nature of being a labour-intensive crop, makes the daily fight for survival paramount.

The unique climate in Sa Pa has a major influence on the ethnic minorities who live in the area.

With sub-tropical summers, temperate winters and 160 days of mist annually, the influence on agricultural yields and health-related issues is significant.

The geographical location of the area makes it a truly unique place for many interesting plants and animals, allowing it to support many inhabitants.

Many very rare or even endemic species have been recorded in the region.

The scenery of the Sa Pa region in large part reflects the relationship between the minority people and nature.

This is seen especially in the paddy fields carpeting the rolling lower slopes of the Hoàng Lién Mountains.

The impressive physical landscape which underlies this has resulted from the work of the elements over thousands of years, wearing away the underlying rock.

On a clear day – (it does happen) – the imposing peak of Fan Si Pan comes into view.

The last major peak in the Himalayan chain, Fan Si Pan offers a real challenge to even the keenest walker, the opportunity of staggering views, and a rare glimpse of some of the last remaining primary rain forest in Vietnam.

Geology, climate and human activity have combined to produce a range of very distinct habitats around Sa Pa.

Especially important is Sa Pa’s geographic position, at the convergence of the world’s 14 “biomes” (distinct biographic areas), producing an assemblage of plant and animal species unique in the world.

In 2014, Sa Pa ranked #9 in the top 10 rice terrace destinations of the world by Spot Cool Stuff.

The best time to take great photos of the yellow rice terraces in Sapa is September.

Occasionally, thick white snow is recorded in Sapa in winter (December to February), giving adventurous travellers a rare chance to admire snow-capped mountains.

It is a one-of-a-lifetime experience in a tropical country like Vietnam.

The Hoàng Lién Mountains are home to a rich variety of plants, birds, mammals, amphibians, reptiles and insects, many only found in northwestern Vietnam.

For this reason, the Hoàng Lién Nature Reserve was made a National Park in 2006.

Above: Hoàng Lién National Park

Hoàng Lién covers much of the mountain range to the immediate south of Sa Pa.

Forest type and quality change with increasing altitude.

At 2,000 meters the natural, undisturbed forest begins to be seen.

Above 2,500 meters dwarf conifers and rhododendrons predominate in the harsh “elfin forest“, (so called because a lack of topsoil and nutrients means that fully mature trees grow to measure only a few meters in height).

Higher still, only the hardiest of plant species are found.

At over 3,000 meters, Fan Si Pan’s summit can only support dwarf bamboo.

Around 7 million minority people (nearly 2/3 of Vietnam’s total minority population) live in the northern uplands, mostly in isolated villages.

The largest ethnic groups are Thai and Muong in the northwest, Tay and Nung in the northeast and Hmong and Dao dispersed throughout the region.

Historically, all these peoples migrated from southern China at various times throughout history:

Those who arrived first, notably the Tay and Thai, settled in the fertile valleys where they now lead a relatively prosperous existence, while late arrivals, such as the Hmong and Dao, took to living on the higher slopes.

Despite government efforts to integrate them into the Vietnamese community, most continue to follow a way of life that has changed very little over the centuries.

For an insight into the minorities’ traditional cultures and highly varied styles of dress, visit Hanoi’s informative Museum of Ethnology before setting off into the mountains.

To get in shape for a trek through the valley, try taking a short but steep hike to the top of Ham Rong Mountain, which overlooks the town from an elevation of around 2,000 metres.

Stone steps lead up to the peak where there are fine panoramic views on a clear day.

The pathway is lined with potted orchids, landscaped gardens and depictions of cartoon characters like Mickey Mouse.

To find the entrance to the park, follow Ham Rong to the north of the church in the town centre.

Above: Ham Rong Mountain

Vietnam’s highest mountain, Fan Si Pan (3143m) lies less than 5 km as the crow flies from Sa Pa, but it’s an arduous three- to five-day round trip on foot.

The usual route starts by descending 300 metres to cross the Muong Hoa River and then climbs almost 2,000 metres on overgrown paths through pine forest and bamboo thickets before emerging on the southern ridge.

The reward is a panorama encompassing the mountain ranges of northwest Vietnam, south to Son La Province and north to the peaks of Yunnan in China.

Above: Mount Fan Si Pan

Although it is a hard climb, the most difficult aspect of Fan Si Pan is its climate:

Even in the most favourable months of November and December it is difficult to predict a stretch of settled clear weather and many people are forced back by cloud, rain and cold.

Setting on top highlight destinations in the Sapa travel guide for adventurous travellers, Fansipan Mount is not only the highest peak in all of Vietnam but also the “roof of the Indochina peninsula”.

The actual trek boasts breathtaking panoramic views of majestic mountains, lush valleys and dense forests, challenging both amateur and professional hikers.

Above: The roof of Indochina

The pristine and rustic beauty of the Cave of Fairies enchants thousands of travellers from the very first glimpse of an eye.

The emerald waters of the Chay River surrounded by high cliffs turns this limestone cave into a heavenly corner on earth with charming scenery.

Above: Entrance to the Cave of Fairies

The Cave of Fairies looks like something straight out of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale.

Above: Ho Dong Tien Cave: The Cave of Fairies

Perching on the peak of Tram Ton pass on the Hoang Lien Son mountain range is Heaven’s Gate.

About 18 kilometers to the north of Sapa, it boasts a great view looking over the valleys between Fansipan, the roof of Indochina Peninsula.

As its name reveals, this destination brings a little feeling of Heaven with a sublime scenery featuring majestic mountains and extreme abyss.

Setting foot on Heaven’s Gate to grasp the beautiful scenery of the winding pass roads below will be an unforgettable memory for newcomers to Sapa.

Above: Heaven’s Gate

A guide is essential to trace indistinct paths, hack through bamboo and locate water sources if climbing Mount Fan Si Pan.

Hmong guides are said to know the mountain best.

Sa Pa hotels and tour agents can arrange guides and porters as required.

A popular, hassle-free way to visit minority villages is to join one of the organized trips offered by tour agencies in Hanoi, Sa Pa, Bac Ha and Ha Giang.

Generally, you are better off going with local companies as they are more familiar with the villages visited.

While it is possible to go alone to places like Cat Cat near Sa Pa, independent trekking is generally frowned upon and locals may not be as welcoming as they are to groups.

With typical wooden houses, flowing streams, elaborate brocades, and hospitable ethnic people, the enchanting Cat Cat is the most beautiful ancient village in Sapa.

Being the home to the Hmong ethnic group, this little hamlet is where local inhabitants retain the cultivation of flax and cotton with a long-standing tradition of weaving beautiful brocade fabrics.

Drop by the village, you can learn about one-of-a-kind customs and practices of Hmong through their local life as well as get an insight into their traditional culture while enjoying the local hospitality.

Above: Cat Cat, Vietnam

Behaviour that we take for granted may cause offence to some ethnic minority people –

Remember that you are a guest.

Apart from being sensitive to the situation and keeping an open mind, the following rules should be observed when visiting the ethnic minority areas.

  • Dress modestly, in long trousers or a skirt, in a T-shirt or shirt.
  • Be sensitive when taking photographs, particularly of older people who are generally suspicious of the camera – always ask permission first.
  • Only enter a house when you’ve been invited, and be prepared to remove your shoes.
  • Small gifts, such as fresh fruit from the local market, are always welcome, and it’s also a good idea to buy craftwork produced by the villagers – most communities have some embroidery, textiles or basketry for sale.
  • As a mark of respect, learn the local terms of address, either in a dialect or at least in Vietnamese, such as chao ong, chao ba.
  • Try to minimize your impact on the fragile local environment: take litter back to the towns with you and be sensitive when using wood and other scarce resources.

Hiking and enjoying nature is the name of the game in Sapa.

The most prominent attraction in the area around Sapa is Fan Si Pan, which is the highest mountain in Vietnam.

It’s only 19km from town. 

This may seem like a short distance, but the trek is not easy.

The rough terrain and unpredictable weather present some difficulties.

Tourists who are fit and have mountain climbing experience will enjoy this attraction the most as the peak is accessible all year round.

Technical climbing skills are not necessary, but endurance is a must.

Towering above Sapa are the Hoang Lien Mountains, once known to the French as the Tonkinese Alps and now a National Park.

These mountains include the often-cloud-obscured Fansipan (3,143 metres), Vietnam’s highest peak, regularly dubbed ‘the Roof of Indochina‘.

Fansipan’s wild, lonesome beauty has been somewhat shattered with the opening of a 6,292-metre-long cable car, taking people across the Muong Hoa Valley and up to near the summit in 15 minutes.

Above: Lower end of Mount Fan Si Pan cable car

Buy tickets at the ticket office in Sapa’s main square, from where a funicular train (50,000 VND return) shuttles passengers to the lower cable-car station.

After the cable-car ride you still face 600 steps to the summit, or you can take another funicular (70,000 VND one way) from Do Quyen, passing a series of pagodas and Buddhas to the summit.

Above: Do Quyen Waterfall

Expect crowds or clouds, depending on the weather.

Fan Si Pan can be found in Hoàng Lién National Park, which is an attraction in itself.

The park covers a picturesque mountain landscape and several forests, and serves as the habitat for a diverse set of animals.

Some species can only be found in northwest Vietnam and are highly endangered.

Nature lovers will truly appreciate this park.

Above: Hoàng Lién National Park

Other attractions that are part of the Hoang Lien National Park include the Cat Cat Village and the Ta Phin Village and cave.

Above: Cat Cat, Vietnam

Above: Ta Phin, Vietnam

Above: Ta Phin Cave

Trekking is the main activity in Sapa. 

Trekking maps are available from the Tourist Information Centre on Fansipan Street.

These maps are invaluable if you want to trek around the area without a guide.

They show the walking trails and trekking routes around town.

Most hotels in Sapa offer tourists guided half-day and day long treks, but the best places to inquire about these treks are the Cha Pa Garden, Auberge Hotel, Cat Cat View Hotel and Mountain View Hotel.

While it is possible to go hiking around Sapa on your own, it is better to have the assistance of a guide to guarantee a more enriching experience.

When it comes to longer treks or overnight stays in the villages, the knowledge of a local will come in handy.

Regardless of being on a walking tour or not, tribal women will walk with you and try to assist you in any possible way hoping for a tip. 

Above: Sa Pa, Vietnam

The road between Sapa and Lai Chau crosses the Tram Ton Pass on the northern side of Mount Fan Si Pan, 15 km from Sapa.

At 1,900 metres it is Vietnam’s highest mountain pass and acts as a dividing line between two climatic zones.

The lookout points here have fantastic views in clear weather.

Above: Mount Fan Si Pan

On the Sapa side it is often cold and foggy, but drop a few hundred metres onto the Lai Chau side and it can be sunny and warm.

Surprisingly, while Sapa is the coldest place in Vietnam, Lai Chau can be one of the warmest.

Above: Lai Chau

Most people also stop at 100-metre-high Thac Bac (Silver Waterfall, admission 20,000 VND), 12 km from Sapa.

A one-way/return xe om here costs 80,000/150,000 dong.

Above: Thac Bac Waterfall

Tourists who want to learn something new can go on community-based tours to Sin Chai, a Hmong village.

On most tours, overnight stays are arranged so people can learn about textiles, or tribal music and dance.

This is what they came for.

Above: Sin Chai, Vietnam

Most visitors come to Sa Pa to trek to minority villages in the Muong Hoa Valley, which separates Sa Pa from Mount Fan Si Pan.

Until 2016, only a few hardy trekkers each year were successful in scaling Vietnam’s highest peak, but thousands now head there each day thanks to the completion of a controversial 7km, three-wire cable car from Sa Pa to the top.

Stretching 6,292 metres, Fansipan Legend is the longest three-wire cable car in the world.

Its altitude gain of 1,410 metres is also the world’s highest for a three-rope cable car.

Though this enormous project (costing $210 million) was strongly criticized by environmentalists for threatening the continued existence of rare species of flora and fauna, most visitors find it an exciting experience.

Gondolas hold up to 30 people.

The journey up takes around 20 minutes and offers eye-popping views of rice terraces in the valley, churning rivers, waterfalls and dense woodland near the summit.

Unfortunately, the summit itself is cloaked in cloud more often than not, but there is still no shortage of visitors queuing to snap a selfie at the top.

There are souvenir shops and restaurants at the lower and upper terminals.

Take a couple of layers to put on when you get out of the cable car at the top.

Allow a few hours at the top and be prepared to stand in long queues to get on board at weekends.

Above: The summit of Mount Fan Si Pan

But I don’t recommend this.

Instead, walk.

For walking has a multitude of amateurs.

Everyone walks.

It is an activity that requires openness, engagement and few expenses.

While walking, the body and the mind work together, so that thinking becomes almost a physical rhythmic act.

Isn’t it really quite extraordinary to see that, since Man took his first step, no one has asked himself why he walks, how he walks, if he has ever walked, if he could walk better, what he achieves in walking – questions that are tied to all the philosophical, psychological and political systems which preoccupy the world.

(Honoré de Balzac, Theorie de la Demarche)

Above: Honoré de Balzac (1799 – 1850)

For Heidi, there was a joy to finding that her body was adequate to get her where she was going.

It was a gift to develop a more tangible, concrete relationship to her neighbourhood and its residents.

On the trail there is a more stately sense of time one has afoot.

On public transit, where things must be planned and scheduled beforehand, everything feels rushed and ruined.

There is a sense of place that can only be gained on foot.

Too many people nowadays live in a series of interiors – home, car, gym, office, shops, cable car – disconnected from one another.

On foot everything stays connected, for while walking one occupies the spaces between these interiors in the same way one occupies these interiors.

One lives in the whole world rather than in interiors built up against it.

From Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust: A History of Walking:

I had told Sono about an ad I found in the Los Angeles Times a few months ago that I had been thinking about ever since.

It was for a CD-ROM encyclopedia and the text that occupied a whole page read:

You used to walk across town in the pouring rain to use our encyclopedia.

We are pretty confident that we can get your kid to click and drag.

I think it was the kid’s walk in the rain that constituted the real education, at least of the senses and the imagination.

It is the unpredictable incidents between official events that add up to a life, the incalculable that give it value.

The random, the unscreened, allows you to find what you don’t know you are looking for.

You don’t know a place until it surprises you.

Walking is one way of maintaining a bulwark against this erosion of the mind, the body, the landscape.

Every walker is a guard on patrol to protect the ineffable.

When you give yourself to places, they give you yourself back.

The more one comes to know them, the more one seeds them with the invisible crop of memories and associations that will be waiting for you when you come back, while new places offer up new thoughts, new possibilities.

Exploring the world is one of the best ways of exploring the mind.

Walking travels both terrains.

Certainly, Heidi could have ascended in comfort, speed and predictability up to the summit of Mount Fan Si Pan.

Certainly, she could have gazed upon the ground below like some Olympian goddess, but doing so the senses are denied forests of huge trees that rise above, plants and animals caressing the Earth that gave them life, all things that are beautiful about existence.

If you are looking for a true adventure in Sapa, skip the cable car and venture into the lush forests of Fan Si Pan.

A good traveller has no fixed plans and is not intent upon arriving.

Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching

Above: Zhang Lu-Laozi (Lao Tzu) riding an ox through a pass: It is said that with the fall of the Chou dynasty, Lao Tzu decided to travel west through the Han Valley Pass. The Pass Commissioner, Yin-hsi, noticed a trail of vapor emanating from the east, deducing that a sage must be approaching. Not long after, Lao Tzu riding his ox indeed appeared and, at the request of Yin-hsi, wrote down his famous Tao Te Ching, leaving afterwards. This story thus became associated with auspiciousness.

My advice to the younger generation is:

Learn to relax and find meaning in the experience.

When you let go of the haste of normal life, it teaches you truths about yourself you had no idea you longed to know.

Amble out into the world at the whim of your curiosity, search for meaning, and follow whatever sparks your sense of adventure along the way.

Life is boundless and therefore fragmentary.

It is our imagination that brings meaning to these fragments, that gives these fragments a unity called Life.

All days are difficult.

The point is to find enough hope to get through the day.

Hope must be sought, discovered.

Walking is that quest for hope.

Writing is my expression of that quest for hope.

While it is possible to wander into the Muong Hoa Valley, pass through a couple of minority villages and return to Sa Pa in a day, for the full-on Sa Pa trekking experience you will want to overnight in a home-stay and get to know something about your hosts.

The cost to enter most villages is 50,000 dong, though this is included in the price of organized treks.

Expect to pay $60 per day per person for these, depending on the number of people in the group.

It is important to wear the right clothing when walking in these mountains:

Strong ankle support are the best footwear, though you can get away with training shoes in the dry season.

Choose thin, loose clothing.

Long trousers offer some protection from thorns and leeches.

Wear a hat and sunblock.

Take plenty of water.

Carry a basic medical kit.

If you plan on spending a night in a village, you will need warm clothing as temperatures can drop to around freezing.

You might want to take a sleeping bag, mosquito net and food, though these are usually provided on organized tours.

Finally, aggressive dogs can be a problem when entering villages, so it is a good idea to carry a strong stick when trekking.

Always be watchful for the venomous snakes that are common in this area.

The French first developed Sa Pa town, the gateway to the region, as a hill station and cool summer escape from Hanoi’s oppressive heat.

Their dominance in the area didn’t last long, though.

During the 1940s, Vietnamese independence fighters drove the colonists from the region, but not before the French bombed Sa Pa town, leaving nothing but ruins behind them.

It wasn’t until the 1990s that redevelopment began in earnest and tourists started to flock back to the region.

Now, trekking in Sa Pa is one of the biggest tourist activities in Vietnam.

Sa Pa town is the very definition of “tacky tourist town”, with hotels, happy hour signs and souvenir shops obliterating anything real, but Heidi has enjoyed waking up this morning to the quiet beauty of Sa Pa.

Sa Pa town is a crazy tourist trap with hundreds of guest houses offering happy hour cocktails and $5 beds.

A great place if drinking cheap cocktails with hordes of other tourists is your idea of a good time.

Walk along the maze of streets.

Above: Sa Pa, Vietnam

Venture into the Sa Pa Market to try fried banana, corn or sweet potato cake, or grilled fresh sweet potato or grilled corn sold by street vendors as an appetizer. 

If you are brave enough, try a grilled balut (put one balut on a cup, make a hole on top of the balut, add marinade and enjoy.

Above: Sa Pa Market

Walk further through small alleys where you can try different kinds of grilled sticks and rolls (beef, fish, pork or seafood on a stick or roll in mustard greens) and several glasses of inexpensive draft beer.

Or get a seat in a local restaurant, order a fresh salmon from local salmon farms in Sapa or sturgeon and let your chef to perform his skill. 

Salmon hotpot is perfect on a cool evening.

Above: Salmon hotpot

Although still beautiful and highly recommended visiting, Sa Pa is no longer the peaceful hill town it once was.

Many local stores have been replaced by stores selling items visitors need and want because it is more profitable for the local store owners. 

The streets are narrow, with many vans carrying visitors in and out, those same visitors walking the streets, and construction of new hotels contributing to the congestion. 

It can be a bit chaotic. 

So in Sa Pa town don’t expect unspoiled wilderness.

Above: Sa Pa, Vietnam

At the Sa Pa market, a tiny Hmong woman dressed in traditional clothing is waiting for Heidi.

She is the trekking guide, Mama of the Mountains.

The Hmong, known in China for centuries under the name Miao, used to be called Méo in Southeast Asia.

Above: Hmong women at market, Coc Ly, Vietnam

Their number is about three million and they are scattered over a vast territory stretching from southwest China (2 million) to North Vietnam (600,000), Laos (about 250,000), Thailand (150,000) and Myanmar (formerly Burma) (about 30,000).

Above: Flag of China

Above: Flag of Vietnam

Above: Flag of Laos

Above: Flag of Thailand

Above: Flag of Myanmar

They have been members of the Unrepresented Nations and Peoples Organization (UNPO) since 2007.

Above: Flag of Unrepresented Nations and Peoples Organization (UNPO)

The Hmong are easy to identify because of their red costume.

Above: Hmong costume

In the market food court, Heidi is given a bowl of tofu noodle soup for breakfast.

It is possibly vegetarian, though the piles of mystery meat on every table in the market do make visitors wonder.

Nourishment being the priority, Heidi slurps up the salty sour soup while her tour companions arrive in small, yawning groups.

After breakfast, the gang who had gathered to go trekking in Sapa splits into two groups and they set off up the backstreets and alleyways rising out of Sapa town.

After five minutes of hill climbing in the searing heat, everyone is drenched in sweat and panting hard.

After half an hour, everyone is questioning their life choices.

Heidi views her guide with great scepticism.

Mama – that’s what the guide insists her group calls her – is half Heidi‘s height, her English broken, her back slightly bent, her tone that will not suffer fools, but her smile is infectious.

To give the guide her credit, she knows exactly when to stop to prevent fainting or major heart trauma.

As they reach the day’s first real rest break, exposing a dramatic view of Sapa town far below, the clouds roll in and rain starts to drip out of the sky.

Nobody minds.

Everyone is hot and sticky and happy for the free shower.

The shower turns into a proper rain storm.

Sapa is home to Vietnam’s highest peak, Fan Si Pan, which tickles the clouds 3,143 metres above sea level, keeping watch over the terraced rice paddies that line Sapa’s steep valley walls.

Above: Sa Pa

Home to several ethnic minorities, chiefly the Hmong, the Dao and the Dai, Sapa has been attracting trekkers since the early 1900s.

They walk slowly along a small local path leading into the bottom of the valley, where some stalls are available that serve tea and fruits:

A perfect spot to take a rest and have lunch.

Above: The village of Lao Chai

After lunch, they visit the Tay people of Ta Van, which lies in the middle of the Muong Hoa Valley.

The Tay, who have been present in Vietnam from the beginning, are a branch of the Tay-Thai group.

In Sa Pa, the Tay ethnic group is concentrated in some southern communities, such as Ho village, Nam Sai village and Thanh Phu village.

It is easy to distinguish the Tay from other ethnic groups because their clothing is very different and has only one colour, dark indigo.

Above: Tay women

Above: Ta Van, Vietnam

They check in a local homestay for overnight.

The local hostess prepares dinner.

During dinner, Heidi tries to talk with them to understand more about their local life and thought. 

More rice?

More rice?

Have more rice?

Have more rice!

It wasn’t a question so much as a command — a very forceful command from their homestay host.

She had been around the entire table of trekkers twice already, wielding her plastic rice paddle like a sword.

After a meal that consists of great mountains of tofu, pumpkin, green beans, bean sprouts, mushroom stir fry and, for the carnivores in the group, fried pork, more rice is exactly what Heidi didn’t want.

When it was her turn to get third helpings, Heidi stretched her arms as far away from the tiny hostess and her plastic rice paddle as she could get.

No,” Heidi laughs.

No, I won’t eat it!

A minute later, after she thought had escaped, another half-cup of rice has been plopped it into her bowl.

At each meal, local women come around to sell their handmade bags, scarves and jewelry.

Even though Heidi isn’t interested, it doesn’t hurt to be friendly, make eye contact, and smile.

The vendors persist in showing her each item they have in their bags, so whether Heidi is friendly or not — she might as well make it a pleasant experience for everyone involved.

The native hill tribe women have learned that following trekkers and city walkers selling local crafts is a great business model. 

So it is best to expect and embrace it as part of the culture, while politely declining if you are not interested, or purchasing/donating if you are inclined. 

The local people are genuine and very friendly if you get to know them beyond their sales. 

Local hill tribe women wear traditional dress, not as much for tourists as it has been their tradition to wear it outside the home for centuries. 

It is not the tradition for men to do so. 

Acres and acres of rice paddies line the hillsides, passed down through the family for generations and still cultivated as a primary source of income.

Once the rice is finally eaten, the rice wine comes out in a much-used plastic 1.5L water bottle.

Once again, the hostess will not be denied.

The trekkers and their enthusiastic hostess down shot after shot of the fiery clear liquid, each drink being preceded by a group chant of “Một hai ba, yo!” or “One, two, three, cheers!”.

A messy, drunken evening ensues.

But the thing about messy drunken evenings at the end of a full day of trekking is that they invariably end early.

Everyone is snugly encamped under mosquito nets by 8:30 pm.

Before 11 pm, even the most foolhardy drinkers have turned out the lights and snored themselves to sleep.

Dreaming of the road ahead.

Not so early the next morning, they gather for a breakfast of thin pancakes with fresh local honey, bananas and fried eggs.

Heidi eats as much as her stomach can hold, knowing another day of heavy exertion lies ahead.

The large group sets off together, winding their way down through the village and out along a narrow muddy track onto the sparsely forested slopes of the mountain.

They pass tiny wooden houses where piglets, baby chicks, and puppies play in the dirt.

There are plenty of village children to meet, too.

Some kids are shy or indifferent to our passing.

Others shout “Hello!” or come running out for a high five.

Slightly ahead of the group, Heidi spots an adorable girl.

Xin chao!”, she shouts with a grin.

The little girl returns Heidi’s smile and her greeting.

With her mother and brother watching over her, Heidi bends down to say hello again and asks to take her picture.

The little girl strikes a perfect pose.

The streamlined group of long-term travellers falls into an easy rhythm as the rice fields and endless purple mountains spread out before them.

Today’s trek is much less hilly and far more satisfying than yesterday’s.

For a start, the clouds have rolled away and they enjoy spectacular views of the rice fields and orchards along the mountainside.

They are also further from Sa Pa town, meaning that they meet more locals and fewer tourists.

Finally, Heidi manages to have real conversations.

Between the quiet minutes of meditative walking, they share their most remarkable travel experiences, their embarrassing moments, their favourite music and their best travel tips.

They chat about the various study- and volunteer-abroad experiences each of them has had, how they handle pressures from family and friends back home, and their plans (or lack thereof) for the future.

Though Heidi enjoys the occasional party, this is what she was looking for on a group tour:

Meeting like-minded people with interesting observations about the world and their unceasing desire to explore it.

The village of Giang Ta Chai is the next stop, which we will reach by following a path over a bridge.

Lunch is provided near a waterfall, just before arrival at the village.

Above: Giang Ta Chai, Vietnam

Eventually, the trek returns to the hill above Hau Thao village.

Above: Hau Thao, Vietnam

They continue to trek to the next village of Ban Ho.

There lives the Tay tribe with their special wooden houses on stilts.

They overnight in Ban Ho village.

Above: Ban Ho, Vietnam

In the morning after breakfast the group walks around Ban Ho village and then trek to Love Waterfall to relax.

Above: Love Waterfall

The final day’s trek is all about making fast tracks back to Sa Pa town.

They follow a steep road that winds up out of the valley floor, taking them back the way they came.

Being on the road in a small group means they make quick time, though they still take plenty of breaks to high five the local kids, attempt to cuddle the large puppy population, and have at least one close encounter with a buffalo.

Once again, they are under the blistering sun for their climb.

A sticky layer of sunscreen, sweat, and rich red dirt envelops them all.

Clouds roll in, threatening more rain, but do little to cool the group.

They stop in a village café near their first night’s homestay for our final lunch of the trip.

It is a hub for people coming and going from Sapa, so once again Heidi is part of a noisy gang of tourists.

Mama shows up to herd the entire café full of trekkers to their various destinations:

Some are getting the 4 pm bus to Hanoi.

Others are taking the sleeper bus or the train.

Still others are hopping on a bus to Lao, while some are staying another night at the homestay.

The efficiency and humour Mama displays while arranging this frenzy of activity is a minor miracle.

The Hmong grow watermelons, oranges, dragon fruit and bananas in orchards around Fan Si Pan.

Tourism provides them with new opportunities to earn sustainable salary.

With that income, they can help their families and their communities.

Put on your trekking boots and step out into the lush green fields of Sapa in Vietnam.

Experience amazing nature brushed with every palette of green.

Meet and engage with the local minority people and immerse yourself into their culture. 

People often use “Sapa” to describe the entire region, not only the smaller Sapa town of 7,000, a hillside town overlooking the green surrounding ​valleys with views of Fan Si Pan, Vietnam’s highest peak, and the dozens of surrounding villages where 29,000 mostly native minorities have lived for hundreds of years. 

The area saw very few tourists before 1993, when both Vietnamese and foreign tourists started to come to see the beautiful terraced rice paddies, corn fields clinging to the sides of the valleys, the clouds rolling in and out, and to stay and relax in the beautiful countryside.

Of course, in conversations with Mama, Heidi wondered what it must be like to be a woman in Vietnam.

Women occupy both the domestic and outside sector in contemporary Vietnam.

Women’s participation in the economy, government, and society has increased.

In the domestic sphere, little progress has been made to improve gender relations.

Above: Young Vietnamese women

Traditional Confucian patriarchal values values have continued to persist, as well as a continued emphasis on the family unit.

This has comprised the main criticism of Vietnam Women’s Union, an organization that works towards advancing women’s rights.

Furthermore, recent shifts in Vietnam’s sex ratio show an increased number of men outnumbering women, which many researchers have stated to in part be caused by the two-child policy in Vietnam.

Confucianism’s emphasis on the family still impacts Vietnamese women’s lives, especially in rural areas, where it espouses the importance of premarital female virginity and condemns abortion and divorce.

Above: The teaching Confucius (551 – 479 BCE)

According to a 2006 study, over the past decades, little progression in gender relations have been made.

Household chores and labour are still primarily performed by Vietnamese women.

However, women in Vietnam have shown increased influence in familial decisions, such as household budgets and the education of the children.

In terms of childcare responsibility, men have shown an increased participation at the earlier ages of childcare, though women overall still bear the main responsibility. 

Women are seen primarily as mothers, and are considered to have shown “respect” to their husband’s lineage if they give birth to a boy.

While patrilineal ancestor worship shows girls as “outside lineage” (họ ngoại), it consider boys to be “inside lineage” (họ nội).

Vietnamese society tends to follow the ancestral line through males, pushing women to the periphery.

As aforementioned Vietnam has a two child policy.

Some families want at least one boy, but would prefer two boys to two girls, so they use ultrasound machines to determine the baby’s sex to later abort female offspring.

Above: Five sisters, Hanoi, Vietnam, 1953

The main religion in Vietnam are traditional folk beliefs.

This is not an organized religion, however it does adopt many Confucian views.

One of the main views that it takes from Confucius is the Patrilineal Society.

Men are the head of the family and more their lineage is to be protected.

As it pertains to motherhood, Vietnam women are seen as and used primarily as mothers.

Female virginity is of extreme importance, especially in rural areas, and the Society condemns abortion and female divorce.

As said, if a woman wants to show respect to her husband, the best way she can do that is to bear him a son.

Above: “Heaven will instruct the master like a wooden-clapper bell to awaken everyone to the Way.” — Analects 3.24

The issue of domestic violence has faced scrutiny in Vietnam.

In 2007, Vietnamese legislation passed the Law on Prevention and Control Domestic Violence, which reported that 32% of Vietnamese women have suffered sexual violence from their spouses, while 54% of women in Vietnam have suffered from emotional violence.

Speculation has rose on the viability of divorce as a solution to those in situations of domestic violence.

This is due to the prevalent local attitudes and measures taken towards preventing divorce in order to preserve the family unit, rather than helping victims escape domestic abuse.

Additionally, surveys have indicated that 87% of domestic violence victims in Vietnam do not seek support for their situation.

In a study comparing Chinese and Vietnamese attitudes towards women, more Vietnamese than Chinese said that the male should dominate the family and a wife had to provide sex to her husband at his will.

Above: A traditional Vietnamese country wedding

(From this male blogger’s point-of-view, I am not suggesting that a wife must provide sex to her husband at his will, but it is the hope that she wants to have sex with her partner with the same desired frequency.)

Violence against women was supported by more Vietnamese than Chinese.

Domestic violence was more accepted by Vietnamese women than Chinese women.

Some Vietnamese women from Lào Cai who married Chinese men stated that among their reasons for doing so was that Vietnamese men beat their wives, engaged in affairs with mistresses, and refused to help their wives with chores, while Chinese men actively helped their wives carry out chores and care for them.

Above: Lào Cai City, Vietnam

Vietnamese women travelling to China as mail order brides for rural Chinese men to earn money for their families and a rise in the standard of living, matchmaking between Chinese men and Vietnamese women has increased and has not been effected by troubled relations between Vietnam and China.

Above: Flags of Vietnam (left) and China (right)

Vietnamese mail order brides have also gone to Taiwan and South Korea for marriage.

Above: Flag of Taiwan

Above: Flag of South Korea

The main human rights issue in Southeast Asia is human trafficking.

According to one study, Southeast Asia is a large source of human trafficking, with many individuals who fall victim to human trafficking being sent to Australia.

Above: Flag of Australia

Vietnam, as well as other countries such as Cambodia, Laos, and the Philippines, are major source countries for human trafficking.

Above: Flag of Cambodia

Above: Flag of the Philippines

While many of the victims that are a part of human trafficking are forced/kidnapped/enslaved, others were lured in under the assumption that they were getting a better job.

According to a policy brief on human trafficking in Southeast Asia, although victims include girls, women, boys, and men, the majority are women.

Women tend to be more highly targeted by traffickers due to the fact that they are seeking opportunity in an area of the world where limited economic opportunities are available for them.

Unskilled and poorly educated women are commonly led into human trafficking.

According to the United Nations Office on Drug and Crime (UNODC) report, women are trafficked the most.

The main causes of human trafficking in Southeast Asia are universal factors such as poverty and globalization.

Industrialization is arguably also another factor of human trafficking.

Many scholars argue that industrialization of booming economies, like that of Thailand and Singapore, created a draw for poor migrants seeking upward mobility and individuals wanting to leave war torn countries.

These migrants were an untapped resource in growing economies that had already exhausted the cheap labor from within its borders.

A high supply of migrant workers seeking employment and high demand from an economy seeking cheap labor creates a perfect combination for human traffickers to thrive.

Above: Flag of Singapore

The sex industry emerged in Southeast Asia in the mid 20th century as a way for women to generate more income for struggling migrants and locals trying to support families or themselves.

Sex industries first catered to military personnel on leave from bases, but as military installations began to recede the industry turned its attention to growing tourism.

Above: Scene from Good Morning, Vietnam – Chintara Sukapatana (Trinh) and Robin Williams (Adrian Cronauer)

Even as the industry is looked down upon today there is still a large underground market that is demanding from traffickers.

Between 2005 and 2009, 6,000 women, as well as younger girls, were found to be in the human trafficking statistic.

The majority of the women and girls are trafficked to China, 30% are trafficked to Cambodia, and the remaining 10% are trafficked to the destinations across the world.

Several cases have occurred where Vietnamese women were abducted or deceived to be sold to Chinese men.

Totalling several thousands, in a significant number of cases the victims were underage.

Above: These Vietnamese girls were abducted and sold in China.

Overall literacy rates across Vietnam are high, with access to education being relatively equal between males and females.

However, regional differences are still apparent, especially amongst the mountainous northern regions.

For example, in one study, the region of Lai Chau was found to have a literacy rate for men double that of the women’s literacy rate in the region.

There is a gender gap in education, with males being more likely to attend school and sustain their education than females.

Women and men tend to be segregated into different jobs, with more women serving in educational, communications, and public services than men.

Above: Vietnamese village school, Tam Duòng

In contemporary Vietnam, there has been significant economic advancement for women, especially for middle-class Vietnamese women.

Middle-class women have increasingly become more involved in the workforce sector outside of the house, with 83% of “working-age women” being involved in the labour force.

These women have been taking on professions dealing with a variety of fields such as sales, marketing, and advertising.

Furthermore, women in the contemporary workforce and economy experience much higher wages than the generations before them.

However, research has shown that many inequalities for women still exist, with women still receiving uneven employment benefits compared to their male counterparts. 

According to one study, 76% of women in the labor force are concentrated in the agricultural sector.

And although under 10% of women in the labour force work in the textile industry, 80% of labourers in the textile industry are women.

Local credit associations do not feel secure giving loans to single mothers, which has resulted in a poverty increase for households that are led by a woman.

The average wage in the country of Vietnam was US$1,540 in 2012.

In 2011, studies showed “that women earn 13% less than men“.

The 2012 survey on workers’ salaries carried out by the Vietnam General Confederation of Labour (VGCL) in enterprises nationwide revealed that female workers’ salaries are only 70-80% of their male colleagues’.

The global average gender pay gap is hovering around 17%.

Above: Logo of the Vietnam General Confederation of Labour

According to Nguyen Kim Lan, ILO national project coordinator, the only two occupational fields where pay is equal is in logistics, and household care.

One reason for the disparity is that companies view women as wanting to stay at home and perform more gender role duties.

More than 70% of labourers in Vietnam are women.

The International Labour Organization recently stated that the gender pay gap has started to increase, according to the ILO Global Wage Report during the 2012 – 2013 period, compared to 1999 – 2007. 

A 2% increase in the gap was recorded in Vietnam in the period.

In recent decades, Vietnam has stressed the importance of gender equality.

Above: Emblem of Vietnam

To address this goal, the Vietnam Women’s Union, an organization founded in 1930 under the Vietnam Communist Party, has pursued the advancement of women in many arenas.

Above: Symbol of the Vietnamese Communist Party

However, they also stress many aspects of Confucian doctrine that keeps a male-dominated hierarchy in place.

As of 2000, their membership has expanded to 11 million, which compromises for 60% of the female population in Vietnam over the age of 18.

Because of their large membership, the Vietnam Women’s Union has frequently been regarded as the representative for women in politics.

Therefore, the VWU frequently advises during the policy-making of gender-related or women’s issues.

However, their role has been disputed due to its shortcomings in promoting women’s right effectively.

In the 1980s, the Vietnam Women’s Union increased paid maternity leave and received a promise that they would be asked before the government implemented any policies that could potentially affect the welfare of women.

However, the increased maternity leave was restored to its original length a few years later.

While there are limits in the Vietnam Women’s Union that prohibit gender change in certain areas, there does not seem to be other organized civil society groups that are fighting for women’s rights.

Two areas that have seen little change throughout recent decades are the roles women play in the family, specifically motherhood, and the human rights problems women traditionally face in the region.

In 2001, the Vietnam Women’s Union was appointed to head the planning of a new legislation, a Law on Gender Equality, which set out to equalize conditions between both genders.

The legislation included several stipulations, including laws pertaining to retirement age for both men and women.

The law went into effect mid 2007.

Their focus on Confucian values which uphold a male-dominated hierarchy has received criticism.

In numerous studies, the VWU has been criticized for its lack of action against gender norms while placing too much emphasis on family structure.

Furthermore, while their efforts have worked towards improving women’s status, the VWU faces criticism for their lack of advocacy towards women’s power.

Above: Logo of the Vietnam Women’s Union

Invariably, Heidi thinks of her life as a woman in Switzerland by comparison.

Above: Switzerland

Tradition dictates that the place of Swiss women is in the home in charge of housework and child care.

Being in a society with strong patriarchal roots, Swiss tradition also places women under the authority of their fathers and their husbands.

Such adherence to patriarchal domination changed and improved when the women of Switzerland gained their right to vote at the federal level on 7 February 1971.

However, despite of gaining status of having equal rights with men, some Swiss women still have to be able to attain education beyond the post-secondary level, thus they earn less money than men, and they occupy lower-level job positions.

According to swissinfo.ch in 2011, Switzerland’s State Secretariat for Economic Affairs (Seco) were encouraging business companies to “appoint more women to top-level positions“.

Those who are already working in business companies, according to same report, mentions that “women earn on average 20% less than men” in Switzerland, and the ratio was 6 out of 10 women were working part-time.

Prominent Swiss women in the fields of business and law include Emilie Kempin-Spyri (1853 – 1901), the first woman to graduate with a law degree and to be accepted as an academic lecturer in the country, and Isabelle Welton, the head of IBM Switzerland and one of few women in the country to hold a top-level position in a business firm.

Above: Emilie Kempin-Spyri

Above: Isabelle Welton

Above: Logo of International Business Machines (IBM)

Family life has been traditionally patriarchal, following the model of a male breadwinner and a female housewife.

In Europe, Switzerland was one of the last countries to establish gender equality in marriage:

Married women’s rights were severely restricted until 1988, when legal reforms providing gender equality in marriage, abolishing the legal authority of the husband, came into force (these reforms had been approved in 1985 by voters in a referendum, who narrowly voted in favour with 54.7% of voters approving).

Adultery was decriminalized in 1989.

In 1992, the law was changed to end discrimination against married women with regard to national citizenship.

Marital rape was criminalized in 1992.

In 2004 it became a state offense in Switzerland.

Divorce laws were also reformed in 2000 and 2005.

In 2013, further reforms to the Civil Code followed, removing the remaining discriminatory provisions regarding the spouses’ choice of family name and cantonal citizenship law.

Until the late 20th century, most cantons had regulations banning unmarried cohabitation of couples.

Above: Bern, the capital of Switzerland

The last canton to end such prohibition was Valais in 1995.

Above: Flag of the Canton of Valais

As of 2015, 22.5% of births were to unmarried women.

Women face significant struggles with regards to work for pay.

Although most women are employed, many are so on a part-time basis or in marginal employment.

The view that women, especially married women, should not work full-time remains prevalent.

Among the OECD, only the Netherlands has more women working part-time.

Above: Flag of the Netherlands

 

Although the law no longer requires the husband’s consent for a wife’s work, in job interviews women are often asked for it. 

Taxation penalizing dual-income families exists in some cantons.

The OECD has stated that:

The lack of family-friendly policy and workplace support makes it very difficult for many Swiss parents, usually mothers, to combine work and family life.”

The OECD has also urged Switzerland to end the practice of irregular and interrupted school hours which makes it difficult for mothers to work, and to revise its tax and supplementary benefits policies.

Above: Logo for Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development

Despite all these, women have a legal right to work and to not be discriminated in the workforce, under the 1996 equality law.

In 2005, paid maternity leave was introduced in Switzerland, after voters approved it in a referendum.

Four previous attempts to secure it had previously failed at the ballot box.

As in other Western countries, the 1990s and the 21st century saw reforms with regard to laws on domestic violence. 

Marital rape was made illegal in 1992, and since 2004 marital rape is prosecutable ex-officio (meaning it can be prosecuted even if the victim does not file an official complaint).

Switzerland also ratified the Council of Europe Convention on Action against Trafficking in Human Beings in 2012, and the Istanbul Convention in 2017.

Above: Women of Champery, Switzerland, 1912

Eskisehir, Turkey, Tuesday 10 May 2022

The Council of Europe Convention on preventing and combating violence against women and domestic violence, better known as the Istanbul Convention, is a human rights treaty of the Council of Europe against violence against women and domestic violence which was opened for signature on 11 May 2011, in Istanbul, Turkey.

The Convention aims at prevention of violence, victim protection and to end the impunity of perpetrators.

As of March 2019, it has been signed by 45 countries and the European Union.

The Convention came into force on 1 August 2014.

Above: Signatories of the Istanbul Convention – Green: signed and ratified / Yellow: only signed / Red: not signed / Purple: denounced and withdrawn

In a press release in November 2018, the Council of Europe stated:

Despite its clearly stated aims, several religious and ultra conservative groups have been spreading false narratives about the Istanbul Convention.”

The release stated that the Convention does not seek to impose a certain lifestyle or interfere with personal organization of private life.

Instead, it seeks only to prevent violence against women and domestic violence.

The release states that:

The Convention is certainly not about ending sexual differences between women and men.

Nowhere does the Convention ever imply that women and men are or should be ‘the same’ and that the Convention does not seek to regulate family life and/or family structures:

It neither contains a definition of ‘family’ nor does it promote a particular type of family setting.”

According to Balkan Insight, criticism of the Convention, strongest in Central and Eastern Europe and mainly by the far right and national conservatives, has little foundation in its actual content.

Using disinformation, populist rhetoric, and appeals to Christian and Islamic morality, critics have managed to reframe what is essentially a set of guidelines that creates ‘a comprehensive legal framework and approach to combat violence against women’, into a sinister attempt by Western Europeans to foist their overly-liberal policies on reluctant societies further east.

In 2021, Turkey became the first and only country to withdraw from the Convention, after denouncing it on 20 March 2021.

The Convention ceased to be effective in Turkey on 1 July 2021, following its denunciation.

On 20 March 2021, Turkish President Erdoğan announced his country’s withdrawal from the Convention by a presidential decree published in the official government gazette.

Above: Flag of Turkey

(From The Guardian, 24 November 2014:

Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan has been accused of blatant sexism after declaring that women are not equal to men and claiming feminists in Turkey reject the idea of motherhood.

The devoutly Muslim president said biological differences meant women and men could not serve the same functions, adding that manual work was unsuitable for the “delicate nature” of women.

Above: Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

His comments ignited a firestorm of controversy on Twitter and one well-known female TV news anchor even took the unusual step of condemning the remarks during a bulletin.

Above: Logo of Twitter

Our religion Islam has defined a position for women: motherhood,” Erdoğan said at a summit in Istanbul on justice for women, speaking to an audience including his own daughter Sumeyye.

Above: Sumeyye Erdoğan and daughter Esra

Some people can understand this, while others can’t.

You cannot explain this to feminists because they don’t accept the concept of motherhood.

He recalled:

I would kiss my mother’s feet because they smelled of Paradise.

She would glance coyly and cry sometimes.

Motherhood is something else,” he said, claiming that it should be a woman’s priority because Islam exalts women as mothers.

Above: Mother and son, Tenzile and Recep Erdoğan

He went on to say that women and men could not be treated equally “because it goes against the laws of nature”.

Their characters, habits and physiques are different.

You cannot place a mother breastfeeding her baby on an equal footing with men.

You cannot make women work in the same jobs as men do, as in Communist regimes.

You cannot give them a shovel and tell them to do their work.

This is against their delicate nature.

Erdoğan was apparently referring to the practice during and after the Second World War for women in Communist states such as the USSR to do heavy manual work in factories or in roles such as tram drivers.

Above: Flag of the Soviet Union (1955 – 1991)

He complained that in previous decades in Turkey women in Anatolian villages had done the back-breaking work while their menfolk idled away the time.

Wasn’t it the case in Anatolia?

Our poor mothers suffered immensely and got hunchbacks while the men were playing cards and rolling dice at teahouses,” he said.

What women need is to be able to be equivalent, rather than equal.

Because equality turns the victim into an oppressor and vice versa.”

Erdoğan has been married since 1978 to his wife Emine, with whom he has two sons and two daughters.

Above: Emine Erdoğan

Aylin Nazliaka, an MP from the main opposition Republican People’s party said Erdoğan “ostracised” women by portraying them as delicate, weak and powerless and limiting their role to motherhood.

Erdoğan has publicly committed a hate crime.

But I will continue to fight this man who sees no difference between terrorists and feminists,” she said in a written statement.

Above: Aylin Nazliaka

Sule Zeybek, an anchorwoman at the Turkish broadcaster Kanal D, hit back at Erdoğan’s comments live on television during a news bulletin.

I am a feminist and thank God I’m a mum.

I wouldn’t kiss my mother’s feet but I have great respect for her,” she said.

Above: Sule Zeybek

The Islamic-rooted government of Erdoğan has long been accused by critics of seeking to erode the country’s secular principles and limiting the civil liberties of women.

Erdoğan has drawn the ire of feminist groups for declaring that every woman in Turkey should have three children and with proposals to limit abortion rights, the morning-after pill and caesarean sections.

Seen by critics as increasingly authoritarian, he has repeatedly lashed out personally at female journalists who displeased him.

Above: Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

But the government’s attitude towards women came under even greater scrutiny after the Deputy Prime Minister, Bülent Arinç, caused a furore in August by suggesting women should not laugh loudly in public.

Above: Bülent Arinç

Activists also say that government officials’ remarks about women and how they should be treated leave them exposed to violence.

According to non-governmental organisations, more than 200 women in Turkey died as a result of domestic violence in the first six months of 2014.)

Above: Feminist protest, Istanbul, 29 July 2017

The notification for withdrawal has been reported to the Secretary-General by Turkey on 22 March 2021 and the Secretary-General has announced that denunciation will enter into force on 1 July 2021.

The withdrawal has been criticized both domestically and internationally, including by the opposition parties in the country, foreign leaders, the Council of Europe, NGOs and on social media.

The COE Secretary-General Marija Pejčinović Burić described the decision as “devastating news” and a “huge setback” that compromises the protection of women in Turkey and abroad.

Above: Marija Pejčinović Burić

A CHP spokesperson claimed that the agreement cannot be withdrawn without parliamentary approval, since it was approved by Parliament on 24 November 2011.

According to the CHP and various lawyers, the right to approve the withdrawal belongs to the Parliament according to Article 90 of the Constitution.

Above: Logo of the Republican People’s Party (CHP)

However, the government claims that the President has the authority to withdraw from international agreements as stated in Article 3 of the Presidential Decree #9.

Above: The Court of Justice, Istanbul

The decision sparked protests across Turkey and comes at a time where the domestic violence against women and femicides in the country are soaring.

US President Joe Biden described the move as “deeply disappointing“.

Above: Joe Biden

The EU’s foreign policy chief Josep Borrell urged the authorities to reverse the decision. 

Above: Josep Borrell

In an official statement, the Turkish Presidency blamed the LGBT community for the withdrawal from the Convention, arguing that:

The Istanbul Convention, originally intended to promote women’s rights, was hijacked by a group of people attempting to normalize homosexuality – which is incompatible with Turkey’s social and family values.

Hence, the decision to withdraw.

(Homosexual activity is legal in Turkey.

However, LGBT people in Turkey face discrimination, harassment and even violence from their relatives, neighbors, etc.

The Turkish authorities have carried out many discriminatory practices.

Despite these, LGBT acceptance in Turkey is growing.

In a survey conducted by Kadir Has University in Istanbul in 2016, 33% of respondents said that LGBT people should have equal rights, which increased to 45% in 2020.

Another survey by Kadir Has University in 2018 found that the proportion of people who would not want a homosexual neighbour decreased from 55% in 2018 to 47% in 2019. 

A poll by Ipsos in 2015 found that 27% of the Turkish public was in favor of legalizing same-sex marriage and 19% supported civil unions instead.

Istanbul Pride was held for the first time in 2003.

Turkey became the first Muslim-majority country to hold a gay pride march.

It was also the first gay pride in the Middle East and the Balkans.

Above: Istanbul Pride, 2013 –
Istanbul Pride was organized in 2003 for the first time.
Since 2015, parades in Istanbul were denied permission by the government.
The denials were based on security concerns, but critics claimed the bans were ideological.
Despite the refusal hundreds of people defied the ban each year.)

(In 2002, Erdoğan said that:

Homosexuals must be legally protected within the framework of their rights and freedoms.

From time to time, we do not find the treatment they get on some television screens humane.

However, in 2017 Erdoğan has said that empowering LGBT people in Turkey was “against the values of our nation“.

Above: Flag of the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender community

In 2020, amid the COVID-19 pandemic, Turkey’s top Muslim scholar and President of Religious Affairs, Ali Erbaş, said in a Friday Ramadan announcement that the country condemns homosexuality because it “brings illness“, insinuating that same sex relations are responsible for the COVID-19 pandemic.

Recep Tayyip Erdoğan backed Erbaş, saying that what Erbaş “said was totally right“.)

Above: Ali Erbaş

That view is shared by conservative groups and officials from Erdoğan’s Islamic-oriented ruling party, the AKP, who claim that the agreement is promoting homosexuality, encouraging divorce and undermining what constitutes a “sacred” family in their view. 

Above: Logo of the Justice and Development Party (AKP)

Answering to criticism over the legality of withdrawal by the Presidency instead of Parliament, Erdoğan insisted that the withdrawal was “completely legal“.

Above: Seal of the President of Turkey

On 29 June, Turkey’s top administrative court rejected a motion for stay of execution regarding Erdogan’s sole decision to withdraw from the Istanbul Convention on violence against women and ruled that it was legal for Erdoğan to withdraw the country out of the Convention since the authority to ratify and annul international agreements was among the president’s powers, according to Article 104 of the Constitution.)

Above: Logo of the Constitutional Court of Turkey

From Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust: A History of Walking:

Jean-Jacques Rousseau remarked in his Confessions:

I can only meditate when I am walking. When I stop, I cease to think. My mind only works with my legs.

Above: Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712 – 1778)

In 1749 the writer and encyclopedist Denis Diderot was thrown into jail for writing an essay questioning the goodness of God.

Above: Denis Diderot (1713 – 1784)

Rousseau, a close friend of Diderot’s at the time, took to visiting him in jail, walking the six miles from his home in Paris to the dungeon of the Château de Vincennes.

Above: Château de Vicennes

Though that summer was extremely hot, Rousseau walked because he was too poor to travel by other means.

In order to slacken my pace, I thought of taking a book with me.

One day I took the Mercure de France and, glancing through it as I walked, I came upon this question propounded by the Dijon Academy for the next year’s prize:

Has the progress of the sciences and arts done more to corrupt morals or improve them?

The moment I read that I beheld another universe and became another man.

Rousseau won the prize and the published essay became famous for its furious condemnation of such progress.

Above: Logo of the Académie des sciences, arts et humanités, Dijon

In his Discourse on Inequality, Rousseau portrays Man in his natural condition “wandering in the forests, without industry, without speech, without domicile, without war and without liaisons, with no need of his fellow men, likewise with no desire to harm them.”

In this ideology, walking functions as an emblem of the simple man and as, when the walk is solitary and rural, a means of being in nature and outside society.

The walker has the detachment of the traveller but travels unadorned and unaugmented, dependent on his or her own bodily strength rather than on conveniences that can be made and bought.

Walking is, after all, an activity essentially unimproved since the dawn of time.

Rousseau walked extensively throughout his life.

His wandering life began when he returned to Geneva from a Sunday stroll in the country, only to find that he had come back too late:

The gates of the city were shut.

Above: Geneva, Switzerland

Impulsively, the 15-year-old Rousseau decided to abandon his birthplace, his apprenticeship and eventually his religion.

He turned from the gates and walked out of Switzerland.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

In Italy and France he found and left many jobs, patrons and friends during a life that seemed aimless….

Above: Flag of Italy

Above: Flag of France

Until the day he read the Mercure de France and found his vocation.

Ever after, he seemed to be trying to recover the carefree wandering of his youth.

He writes of one episode:

I do not remember ever having had in all my life a spell of time so completely free from care and anxiety as those seven or eight days spent on the road.

This memory has left me the strongest taste for everything associated with it, for mountains especially and for travelling on foot.

I have never travelled so except in my prime and it has always been a delight to me.

He continued to walk at every opportunity.

Elsewhere he claimed:

Never did I think so much, exist so vividly and experience so much.

Never have I been so much myself as in the journeys I have taken alone and on foot.

There is something about walking that stimulates and enlivens my thoughts.

When I stay in one place I can hardly think at all.

My body has to be on the move to set my mind going.

The sight of the countryside, the succession of pleasant views, the open air, a sound appetite and the good health I gain by walking, the easy atmosphere of an inn, the absence of everything that makes me feel my dependence, of everything that recalls me to my situation – all these serve to free my spirit, to lend a greater boldness to my thinking, so that I can combine them, select them and make them mine as I will, without fear or restraint.

It was, of course, an ideal walking that Rousseau described – chosen freely by a healthy person amid pleasant and safe circumstances.

It is this kind of walking that would be taken up by his countless heirs as an expression of well-being, harmony with nature, freedom and virtue.

Rousseau portrays walking as both an exercise of simplicity and a means of contemplation.

During the time he wrote the Discourses, he would walk alone in the Bois de Boulogne after dinner, “thinking over subjects for works to be written and not returning till night“.

Above: Bois de Boulogne as seen from the Tour d’Eiffel, Paris, France

A solitary walker is in the world, but apart from it, with the detachment of the traveller rather than the ties of the worker, the dweller, the member of a group.

Walking seems to have become Rousseau’s chosen mode of being, because within a walk he is able to live in thought and reverie, to be self-sufficient, and thus to survive the world.

Walking provides him with a literal position from which to speak.

As a literary structure, the recounted walk encourages digression and association.

A century and a half later, James Joyce and Virginia Woolf would, in trying to describe the workings of the mind, develop the style called stream of consciousness.

Above: James Joyce (1882 – 1941)

Above: Virginia Woolf (1882 – 1941)

In their novels Ulysses and Mrs. Dalloway, the jumble of thoughts and recollections of their protagonists unfolds best during their walks.

This kind of unstructured, associative thinking is the kind most connected to walking.

Walking is not an analytical act but an improvisational one.

Soren Kierkegaard is the other philosopher who has much to say about walking and thinking.

He chose Copenhagen as his place to walk and study his human subjects.

The streets of Copenhagen were his reception room.

Kierkegaard’s great daily pleasure seems to have been walking the streets of his city.

It was a way to be among people for a man who could not be with them, a way to bask in the faint human warmth of brief encounters, acquaintances’ greetings and overheard conversations.

Above: Nyhavn Canal, Copenhagen, Denmark

A lone walker is both present and detached from the world around, more than an audience but less than a participant.

Walking assuages or legitimizes this alienation:

One is mildly disconnected because one is walking, not because one is incapable of connecting.

Walking provided Kierkegaard, like Rousseau, with a wealth of casual contacts with his fellow humans and it facilitated contemplation.

Kierkegaard wrote:

In order to bear mental tension as mine, I need diversion, the diversion of chance contacts on the streets and alleys, because associations with a few exclusive individuals is actually no diversion.

He proposes that the mind works best when surrounded by distraction, that it focuses in the act of withdrawing from surrounding bustle rather than in being isolated from it.

Above: Soren Kierkegaard caricature, Corsaren satirical journal, 26 August 1846

He revelled in the turbulent variety of city life.

This very moment there is an organ grinder down in the street playing and singing.

It is wonderful.

It is the accidental and insignificant things in life that are significant.

Although his extensive walks were perceived as signs of idleness, they were in fact the foundation of his prolific work.

The city strolls distracted him so that he could forget himself enough to think more productively, for his private thoughts are often convolutions of self-consciousness and despair.

In a journal passage from 1848, he described how on his way home, “overwhelmed with ideas ready to be written down and in a sense so weak that I could scarcely walk“, he would often encounter a poor man.

If he refused to speak with him, the ideas would flee.

And I would sink into the most dreadful spiritual tribulation at the idea that God could do to me what I had done to that man, but if I took the time to talk with the poor man things never went that way.”

Above: Copenhagen

Like Rousseau, Kierkegaard is a hybrid, a philosophical writer rather than a philosopher proper.

Their work is often descriptive, evocative, personal and poetically ambiguous.

It has room for delight and personality and something as specific as the sound of an organ grinder in a street or rabbits on the island of Saint Pierre on the Lake of Bienne where Rousseau lived on the estate of Ermenonville.

Above: Château d’Ermenonville

Walking is a way of grounding one’s thoughts in a personal and embodied experience of the world that lends itself to writing.

Edmund Husserl described walking as the experience by which we understand our body in relationship to the world.

The body, he said, is our experience of what is always here.

The body in motion experiences the unity of all its parts as the continuous “here” that moves toward and through the various “theres“.

It is the body that moves but the world that changes, which is how one distinguishes the body from the world.

Above: German philosopher/mathematician Edmund Husserl (1859 – 1938)

Travel can be a way to experience this continuity of self amid the flux of the world and thus to begin to understand each and their relationship to each other.

Travel is about being utterly mobile, but the postmodern body is shuttled around by airplanes and hurtling cars, not even moving around by any apparent means muscular, mechanical, economic or ecological.

The body has become nothing more than a parcel in transit, a chess piece dropped on a square.

It does not move.

It is moved.

Walking returns the body to its original limits again, to something supple, sensitive and vulnerable.

Walking itself extends into the world.

The path is an extension of walking, the places set aside for walking are monuments to that pursuit.

Walking is a mode of making the world as well as being in it.

I find myself from time to time in the midst of psychological conflict with a wife who cannot comprehend that my search for personal happiness cannot revolve around being with her constantly, that I must be fulfilled in all the roles a man must do, besides husband.

A friend has confessed to me their struggle between the desires of the day and the longings for tomorrow.

Heidi was in turmoil having just ended a relationship and finding herself wondering why she was travelling and what would happen if she stopped.

From Dan Kieran’s The Idle Traveller – The Art of Slow Travel:

Slow travel rarely goes according to plan.

Everything you encounter in your life, whether you consider it to be real or imagined, ultimately resides in thoughts and concepts in your brain.

The “real” world is far larger and more complicated than the one we are aware of.

We are all planning for tomorrow at the expense of today, which stops us from living in the moment and having to accept the imperfect nature of things as they are.

By the time we get to tomorrow, our life experiences mean what we thought we wanted has changed.

Slow travel and you are rewarded with serendipitous delights.

We can control our own image of perfection and escape the tyranny of the real world not living up to what we want it to be, but we achieve this not by trying to conquer the world we live in, but by redesigning the focus of our lives internally.

This is achieved by travelling through a landscape, being passionately in love, not falling for the ambition of “tomorrow” and accepting the lifetime pursuit of expressing your own sense of creativity.

When to comes to travel, this falling out of control beyond the comprehension of your own imagination, this is the source of everything.

Man’s real home is not a house, but the Road.

Life itself is a journey to be walked on foot.

Bruce Chatwin

Above: Bruce Chatwin (1940 – 1989)

So, my advice to Heidi, my advice to my Eskişehir friend, my advice to myself, is clear.

Go for a walk.

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / The Rough Guide to Vietnam / Dan Kieran, The Idle Traveller / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust / “Recep Tayyip Erdogan: Women not equal to men“, The Guardian, 24 November 2014)

Canada Slim and the Pharmacy of the Soul

Eskişehir, Turkey, Monday 18 April 2022 AD (18 Nisan 5782 AM) (18 Ramadan 1443 AH) (18 Pasar 2022 CE)

Despite this being Easter Monday (Christian calendar), the 18th day of Nisan (Jewish Passover) and the 18th day of Ramadan, religion is not a divisive issue in this city.

Generally, some fast and others feast.

Some pray and others pass the time going about their lives as if this month is merely just one of twelve in the year.

Above: Praying hands, Albrecht Dürer

To know a person’s religion we need not listen to his profession of faith but must find his brand of tolerance.

Eric Hoffer (1902 – 1993)

It is easy to be dismissive of religion, the pomp and pagentry, the ceremony and sanctimony, the folks that violate the tenets of faith in the name of that faith.

It is easy to dismiss the possibility of God whose only true proof of existence is our inability to disprove His existence.

And yet despite the faithless, despite the hypocrisy of some, despite the death, deceit and destruction committed in His Name by those unrecognizable as believers despite the masks they wear, I cannot but acknowledge the true purpose of faith, the real reason for religion, which is encapsulated in one single solitary word:

Hope.

We hope that our lives have meaning.

We hope that the pain and sorrow and suffering may lead to dignity.

We hope that we are not alone in this valley of the shadow of death.

We hope that death has meaning beyond ourselves, in spite of ourselves.

We hope that those who harm and hurt and harass others will be meted that which they dealt.

We hope that the love we shared with others will sustain us, perhaps even beyond this mortal coil.

Of the three Abrahamic religions, Judaism offers an eternal Promised Land, Islam suggests that a good person leaves behind a legacy of continuing charity and an inheritance of knowledge and a testament of righteous offspring worthy of the name, and Christianity suggests that there is a promise of an afterlife and that resurrection beyond longevity is possible.

We hope our lives have meaning.

We hope our deaths can be faced with dignity and daring.

We hope that who we are was not for naught.

And for all its flaws, for all its phonies, for all its unclarity and uncertainty and a myriad of interpretations, religion, faith, in ourselves, in desperate quest of destinies too wonderful for dreams, faith gives us all the only thing that matters:

Hope.

When you’ve fallen on the highway
And you’re lying in the rain,
And they ask you how you’re doing
Of course you’ll say you can’t complain
If you’re squeezed for information,
That’s when you’ve got to play it dumb
You just say you’re out there waiting
For the miracle, for the miracle to come

Waiting for the Miracle“, Leonard Cohen (1934 – 2016)

I never want to be a man who steals hope.

That being said, how can anyone, such as I, sitting on the outside, possibly understand the deeper meaning of the reality of a religion if they have not personally lived it?

The answer, I have been assured by believers I have known, is personal.

Their moment of realization is beyond words.

Faith, by its very nature, is elusive.

Talk to me about the truth of religion and I will listen gladly.

Talk to me about the duty of religion and I will listen submissively.

But don’t come talking to me about the consolations of religion or I shall suspect that you don’t understand.

C. S. Lewis

Above: Clive Staples Lewis (1898 – 1963)

Here in Eskişehir, Turkey is celebrating Ramadan, a month of fasting, prayer, reflection and community.

In a religious life where faith, politics and culture are arguably more inextricably linked in any other religion, there are bound to be differences of opinion and controversial beliefs.

Essential truths can be either vaguely known, interpreted variously or just plain misunderstood.

Above: Halisi Cami (mosque), Eskişehir, Turkey

There is no reason to bring religion into it.

I think we ought to have as great a regard for religion as we can, so as to keep it out of as many things as possible.

Sean O’Casey

Above: Sean O’Casey (1880 – 1964)

The closest I have come to understanding faith in 2022 has been visits to St. Gallen, where today “half-assed Christians” (a term coined by a Catholic priest I once knew) will, for the first of only two annual visits to church – the other occasion being Christmas – will commemorate events two millennia past of a man who claimed to be the Son of God, preached and did all manner of miracles, was crucified as an enemy of the state, was resurrected and ascended to Heaven and will one day return to save the chosen few.

It is a nice story, difficult to prove, difficult to disprove.

It is a question of faith.

What do you choose to believe?

Above: Latin cross, a symbol of Christianity

It is in St. Gallen (among other places) where my faith – such as it is – finds its foundation, a harmony to my heart.

But this post is less a glorification of God as it is a monument to man, for much of the past decade found me working in St. Gallen and it is the people I have known there (and elsewhere) that have given me faith in humanity.

Perhaps the time has come to finally express my gratitude and to sing praises.

Above: Aerial view of St. Gallen, Switzerland

Sometimes I wonder if the manner in which Christianity was introduced to Switzerland is the reason why some Swiss view other faiths as so threatening to the fabric of Swiss life.

St. Gallen’s past may be a prime example of why the Swiss fear other religions following the examples of history.

Above: Flag of Switzerland

Religion to me has always been the wound, not the bandage.”

Dennis Potter

Above: Dennis Potter (1935 – 1994)

The main urban centre of eastern Switzerland, St. Gallen has been described as “a relaxed provincial city set amid rolling countryside between the Appenzell hills and the Lake of Constance (Bodensee), with a beautiful old quarter“.

I agree with this description save for one word:

Relaxed.

Above: Klosterviertel (cloister quarter), Altstadt (old city), St. Gallen, Switzerland

I lived in Switzerland for a decade and much of that period was spent working in St. Gallen either as a teacher or as a barista.

Neither position was relaxing.

Above: Panoramic view of St. Gallen

As the wife and I lived in Landschlacht, a mere 15 km from the German border, we were more likely to spend our free time in Konstanz due to its closer proximity and lower costs.

Above: Landschlacht, Switzerland

St. Gallen has meant, for the most part, work, work and more work.

This is not to say that I did not make any friends during my employment there nor would I say that there weren’t some moments when I, alone or accompanied by the wife, would travel to St. Gallen for leisure activities, such as theatres, restaurants and museums.

It is nonetheless a mistake to label St. Gallen as relaxed, for it is a Swiss city, and relaxing is not something at which the Swiss generally excel.

Above: St. Gallen

The centrepiece of St. Gallen is its extraordinarily lavish Baroque abbey, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Above: Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

All the sweetness of religion is conveyed to the world by the hands of storytellers and image makers.

Without their fictions the truths of religion would for the multitude be neither intelligible nor even apprehensible.

Prophets would prophesy and the teachers teach in vain.

George Bernard Shaw

Above: George Bernard Shaw (1856 – 1950)

This has always struck me as an odd notion.

If God exists and is the Creator of all that is, why in Heaven’s name would He need to be celebrated in a lavish enclosure?

Nothing man can construct can ever compare with the majesty of nature.

If God exists then He cannot nor should not be contained with the confines of a cathedral or a Camii. (Turkish: mosque)

I have often said that within the confines of a city it is difficult to believe in God.

In the expanse of nature it is difficult to doubt that God doesn’t exist.

I think that lavish religious structures are never about glorifying God as much as they are for showing off the wealth of the community.

Do we build these magnificent temples for God’s glory?

Or for ours?

Above: Interior of the Abbey Cathedral

The Cathedral is impressive enough and serves as an ever present reminder that the city owes its name to the religious community that remains at its core.

This giant Baroque building is unmissable, its twin towers visible from most points.

Above: Kloster St. Gallen, 1769

Designed by Peter Thumb from Bregenz (Austria), it was completed in 1797 after just 12 years’ work.

Above: Peter Thumb (1681 – 1767)

Access is through the west door, although it is worth making your way around the church and looking at the outside from the enclosed Klosterhof (cloister yard), at the heart of the complex, where you can gaze up at the soaring east facade.

The interior is vast, a broad, brightly lit basilica with a triple-aisled nave and central cupola.

Although not especially high, the Cathedral has a sense of huge depth and breadth.

From the sandstone of the floor and the wood of the pews, fancy light-green stuccowork – characteristic of churches in the Konstanz region – draws your eye up the massive double-width pillars to the array of frescoes on the ceiling, which are almost entirely the work of one artist, Josef Wannenmacher.

The central cupola shows Paradise with the Holy Trinity, apostles and saints.

Above: Rotunda, Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

(“And the three men I admire the most

The Father, Son and the Holy Ghost

They took the last train for the coast

The day the music died“)

Don McLean

Details throughout the rest of the Cathedral are splendid:

  • the ornate choir screen
  • the richly-carved walnut-wood confessionals
  • the intricate choir stalls
  • at the back at the choir, the high altar flanked by black marble columns with gold trim

The south altar features a bell brought by Gall(us) on his 7th-century journey from Ireland.

Above: Inside the Abbey Cathedral, St. Gallen

Gall’s origin is a matter of dispute.

It is all a matter of what you choose to believe.

According to his 9th-century biographers in Reichenau, he was from Ireland and entered Europe as a companion of Columbanus (Columba).

Above: St. Peter and St. Paul Church, Reichenau Island, Germany

The Irish origin of the historical Gall was called into question by Gerrold Hilty (2001), who proposed it as more likely that he was from the Vosges or Alsace region.

Max Schär (2010) proposed that Gall may have been of Irish descent but born and raised in the Alsace.

Above: (in red) Location of the Alsace region, France

According to the 9th-century hagiographies, Gall as a young man went to study at Bangor Abbey.

The monastery at Bangor had become renowned throughout Europe as a great centre of Christian learning.

Above: Bangor Abbey, Northern Ireland

Studying in Bangor at the same time as Gall was Columbanus, who with 12 companions, set out about the year 589.

Gall and his companions established themselves with Columbanus at first at Luxeuil in Gaul.

Above: Bobbio Abbey (Italy) stained glass image of Columbanus (543 – 615)

Above: Cloister area, Luxeuil Abbey, France

In 610, Columbanus was exiled by leaders opposed to Christianity and fled with Gall to Alemannia. 

Due to dynastic conflicts between Theuderic II (587 – 613) and his brother Theudebert II (585 – 612), Columbanus lost support in the Frankish Empire and had to leave Luxeuil. 

The further missionary journey led the community around Columban from Metz up the Rhine and via Zürich and Tuggen finally via Arbon to Bregenz. 

Above: Metz, France

Above: Altstadt Zürich, Switzerland

Above: Tuggen, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

In Bregenz, as in Arbon, they met a Christian community that had partially returned to paganism. 

Gall preached in the Alemannic language, in contrast to Columbanus, who did not speak it. 

Here, and before that in Tuggen, the religious people destroyed the statues of the local deities and threw them into the lake. 

As a result, these messengers of the faith antagonized some of the inhabitants, who complained to their Duke Gunzo. 

Two monks were killed after being ambushed.

(They were chasing a missing cow into the forest.)

The founding of a monastery in Bregenz failed and Columbanus traveled on to Bobbio in Italy in 612 to found a monastery at the invitation of the Lombard prince.

Above: Alemannia (orange) and Upper Burgundy (green), circa 1000 CE

Above: Bobbio, Italy

When Columbanus, Gall and their companions left Ireland for mainland Europe, they took with them learning and the written word.

Their effect on the historical record was significant as the books were painstakingly reproduced on vellum by monks across Europe.

Many of the Irish texts destroyed in Ireland during Viking raids were preserved in abbeys across the Channel.

Gall accompanied Columbanus on his voyage up the Rhine River to Bregenz, but when in 612 Columbanus travelled on to Italy from Bregenz, Gall had to remain behind due to illness and was nursed at Arbon.

Above: Columbanus and Gall on Lake Constance (Bodensee)

Above: Course of the Rhine River

Above: A view of modern Bregenz, Austria

Above: A view of modern Arbon, Switzerland

Gall remained in Alemannia, where, with several companions, he led the life of a hermit in the forests southwest of Lake Constance, near the source of the River Steinach.

Above: Steinach River, Mühlegg Gorge, St. Gallen

Cells were soon added for twelve monks whom Gall carefully instructed.

Gall was soon known in Switzerland as a powerful preacher.

When the See of Constance became vacant, the clergy who assembled to elect a new Bishop were unanimously in favour of Gall.

He, however, refused, pleading that the election of a stranger would be contrary to Church law.

Some time later, in the year 625, on the death of Eustasius, Abbott of Luxeuil, a monastery founded by Columbanus, members of that community were sent by the monks to request Gall to undertake the government of the monastery.

He refused to quit his life of solitude, and undertake any office of rank which might involve him in the cares of the world.

He was then an old man.

He died at the age of 95, circa 650, in Arbon.

His grave became a site of pilgrimage.

The supposed day of his death, 16 October, is still commemorated as Gallus Day.

Above: Gall, Tuggen coat of arms

From as early as the 9th century the fantastically embroidered Life of Saint Gallus was circulated.

Prominent was the story in which Gall delivered Fridiburga from a demon by which she was possessed.

Fridiburga was the betrothed of Sigibert III, King of the Franks, who had granted an estate at Arbon (which belonged to the royal treasury) to Gall so that he might found a monastery there.

Fridiburga was the daughter of the Alemannic Duke Gunzo. 

She was engaged to the Merovingian King Sigibert III (638 – 656), but she fell seriously ill shortly before the wedding. 

According to the Life of St. Gallus, Sigibert sent two bishops with rich gifts to Fridiburga to free her from the demon of illness, but in vain. 

Shortly afterwards, when Gall came to Überlingen, site of the Duke’s court, he healed Fridiburga. 

Above: Überlingen, Germany

She was then taken to Metz, where she was taken from the royal palace to the church of St. Stephen. 

On the advice of the bishops, Sigibert renounced his marriage to Fridiburga and then married Chimnechild in 646. 

Fridiburga lived as a nun in the Metz monastery of St. Peter, where she would became its abbess.

Above: Church of Saint Pierre aux Nonnains, Metz, France

Circa 612, Gall was, according to the lore, travelling south from the Bodensee into the forest.

Legend has it that Gall either fell over, or stumbled into, a briar patch.

After a long stay in Arbon, Gall decided in 612, together with the deacon Hiltibod of Arbon, to follow the Steinach River, which flows into Lake Constance

They moved along the stream into the Arbon forest – the whole area from Lake Constance to Appenzellerland was primeval forest at the time – and came to the waterfall at the Mühleggschlucht (mill slope canyon) gorge. 

Here Gall stumbled and fell into a thorn bush. 

He interpreted this as a divine sign to stay here. 

Above: Beginning of Mühleggschlucht Gorge near St. Georgen, Switzerland

Many depictions of Gall are therefore subtitled with the Latin Vulgate Bible verse:

Haec requies mea in saeculum saeculi.

Hic habitabo quoniam elegi eam.

(This is my resting place forever. 

I want to live here because I like it.)

Psalm 132: 14

Above: 8th century Vulgate Bible

Above: St. Gall and the founding of the monastery

Gall was sitting one evening warming his hands at a fire.

A bear emerged from the woods and charged.

The holy man rebuked the bear, so awed by his presence it stopped its attack and slunk off to the trees.

There it gathered firewood before returning to share the heat of the fire with Gall.

The legend says that for the rest of his days Gall was followed around by his companion the bear.

Images of Gall typically represent him standing with a bear.

Above: St. Gall with a bear

So either clumsiness or a trained bear led Gall to feel that he had received a sign from God – It’s nice that God has someone to communicate with. – and so chose the site to build his hermitage.

I guess nothing says security and sanctity more than accidental briar patches and firewood-fetching bears.

Above: Lyrics from “One of Us“, Joan Osborne

Afterwards, the people venerated Gall as a saint and prayed at his tomb for his intercession in times of danger.

After his death, a small church was erected, which developed into the Abbey of St. Gall, the nucleus of the Canton of St. Gallen.

The city of St. Gallen originated as an adjoining settlement of the Abbey.

Above: Plaque in honour of Gall, St. Gallen

Following Gall’s death, Charles Martel (688 – 741) had Othmar (689 – 759) appointed as custodian of St Gall’s relics.

Above: Charles Martel (688 – 741)

Othmar was of Alemannic descent, received his education in Rhaetia (Chur), was ordained priest, and for a time presided over a church in Rhaetia (Chur).

Above: Chur Cathedral

In 720 Waltram of Thurgau appointed Othmar superior over the cell of St. Gall and custodian of St Gall’s relics.

Othmar united into a monastery the monks that lived about the cell of St. Gall, according to the Rule of St. Columban, and became their first abbot.

Above: Collegiate Church of St. Gall and St. Othmar

He added a hospital and a school, which became the foundation upon which the famous Stiftsbibliothek (Monastery library) was built.

Above: The northwest wing of the monastery district from the outside – the Abbey Library is on the first and second floor

In 747, as a part of the reform movement of Church institutions in Alamannia, he introduced the Benedictine Rule, which was to remain in effect until the secularization and closure of the monastery in 1805.

Above: The oldest copy of the Rule of Saint Benedict, from the 8th century, Bodleian Library, Oxford, England

Othmar also provided for the needs of the surrounding community, building an almshouse as well as the first leprosarium (hospice for lepers) in Switzerland.

Above: Spinalonga, Crete, one of the last leper colonies in Europe, closed in 1957

When Carloman (713 – 754) renounced his throne in 747, he visited Othmar at St. Gall and gave him a letter to his brother Pepin (714 – 768), recommending Othmar and his monastery to the King’s liberality.

Othmar personally brought the letter to Pepin, and was kindly received.

Above: Charles Martel divides the realm between Pepin and Carloman

In 759, Counts Warin and Ruodhart tried to gain possession of some property belonging to St. Gall, Othmar fearlessly resisted their demands.

Hereupon they captured him while he was on a journey to Konstanz, and held him prisoner, first at the castle of Bodmann, then on the island of Werd in the Rhine River.

Above: Werd Island

At the latter place he died, after an imprisonment of six months, and was buried.

Above: Martyrdom of St. Othmar

Othmar’s cult began to spread soon after his death.

He is one of the most popular saints in Switzerland.

In 769 his body was transferred to the Monastery of St. Gall.

As the weather was very hot, when the men rowed his body across Lake Constance (Bodensee), they became extremely thirsty.

Legends say that the only barrel of wine they had left did not become empty, regardless of how much they drank.

Therefore, the wine barrel became one of Othmar’s attributes.

His cult was officially recognized in 864 by Bishop of Konstanz Solomon I (d. 871).

Above: Othmar of St. Gallen

Interesting side note connected with Solomon I:

In 847, his diocese was the first to be disturbed by the preachings of a false prophetess named Thiota.

Above: Cathedral of Konstanz, Germany

Thiota was a heretical Christian prophetess originally from Alemannia.

In 847 she began prophesying that the world would end that year.

Her story is known from the Annales Fuldenses which records that she disturbed the diocese of Solomon before arriving in Mainz.

A large number of men and women were persuaded by her “presumption” as well as even some clerics.

In fear, many gave her gifts and sought prayers.

Finally, the bishops of Gallica Belgica ordered her to attend a synod in St Alban’s Church in Mainz.

She was eventually forced to confess that she had only made up her predictions at the urging of a priest and for lucrative gain.

She was publicly flogged and stripped of her ministry, which the Fuldensian annalist says she had taken up “unreasonably against the customs of the Church.”

Shamed, she ceased to prophesy thereafter.

Above: 11th century Carolina copy Annales Fuldenses, Humanist Library, Schlettstadt, Alsace, France
The report is open for the year 855 with the earthquake in Mainz.

In 867 Othmar was solemnly entombed in the new church of St. Othmar at St. Gall.

He is represented in art as a Benedictine abbot, generally holding a little barrel in his hand, an allusion to the alleged miracle, that a barrel of Othmar never became empty, no matter how much he took from it to give to the poor.

Above: Statue of St. Othmar

Two monks of the Abbey of St Gall, Magnus von Füssen and Theodor, founded the monasteries in Füssen and Kempten in the Allgäu region.

Above: Statue of Magnus of Füssen

Above: St. Lawrence Church, Kempten Abbey, Allgäu, Bavaria, Germany

With the increase in the number of monks the Abbey grew stronger also economically.

Much land in Thurgau, Zürichgau, and in the rest of Alemannia as far as the Neckar River was transferred to the Abbey.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

Under Abbot Waldo of Reichenau (740 – 814) copying of manuscripts was undertaken and a famous library was gathered.

Numerous Anglo-Saxon and Irish monks came to copy manuscripts here.

Above: Abbot Waldo of Reichenau meets Charlemagne

At Charlemagne’s (747 – 814) request, Pope Adrian I (700 – 795) sent distinguished chanters from Rome, who propagated the use of the Gregorian chant.

Above: 15th century miniature depicting Pope Adrian I greeting Charlemagne

In 744, the Alemannic nobleman Beata sold several properties to the Abbey in order to finance his journey to Rome.

Above: St. Peter’s Cathedral, Vatican City

In the 830s, under Abbot Gozbert (d. 850), Saint Gall became a cultural centre, as many still existing documents from his time affirm.

He paid special attention to the Abbey Library and had close ties to one of the main scribes there, Wolfcoz.

Above: Abbey Library

Wolfcoz I was a medieval scribe and painter of illuminated manuscripts, working in the scriptorium of the Abbey of Saint Gall.

He entered the monastery some time before 813.

Fourteen known documents by Wolfcoz’s hand were created between 816 and 822, including parts of the Wolfcoz Psalter and the Zürich Psalter.

In Wolfcoz’ time, the scriptorium of the Abbey entered a golden age, producing manuscripts of high quality and establishing the Abbey Library of Saint Gall as a centre of Alemannic German culture.

The Abbey Library still has three manuscripts penned by Wolfcoz. 

He developed the Allemanic minuscule and also the decoration of initials.

Above: Scribe in a scriptorium, Miracles de Notre Dame

Gozbert was the recipient (and employer?) of the Plan of Saint Gall, which was made around 820 in Reichenau.

How closely his monastery actually resembled this ideal plan is unknown. 

Above: The Carolingian monastery plan of St. Gallen is the oldest surviving architectural drawing in the West

The monastery was eventually freed from its dependence upon the Bishopric of Konstanz.

Above: Coat of arms of the Diocese of Konstanz

King Louis the Pious confirmed in 833 the immunity of the Abbey and allowed the monks the free choice of their abbot.

Above: King Louis / Ludwig the Pious (778 – 840)

In 854, finally, the Abbey of St Gall reached its full autonomy by King Louis the German (806 – 876) releasing the Abbey from the obligation to pay tithes to the Bishop of Konstanz.

Above: Louis the German (bottom) genuflecting at Christ on the cross

From this time until the 10th century, the Abbey flourished.

It was home to several famous scholars, including Notker of Liège (940 – 1008), Notker the Stammerer (840 – 912), Notker Labeo (950 – 1022), Tuotilo (850 – 915) and Hartker (who developed the antiphonal liturgical books (choir books) for the Abbey).

Above: Notker of Liège

Above: Notker the Stammerer

Above: Notker Labeo

Above: Copy of Tuotilo’s Cod. Sang. 53, Abbey Library, St. Gallen

Above: Printed antiphonary (ca. 1700), open to Vespers of Easter Sunday, Musée de l’Assistance Publique, Hôpitaux de Paris

During the 9th century a new, larger Church was built and the Library was expanded.

Manuscripts on a wide variety of topics were purchased by the Abbey and copies were made.

Over 400 manuscripts from this time have survived and are still in the Library today.

Above: Abbey Library

Emperor Louis the Pious (778 – 840) made the monastery an imperial institution.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

In 926 the Magyars threatened the Abbey and the books had to be removed to Reichenau for safety.

Above: Hungarian invasions, 9th and 10th centuries CE

Not all the books were returned.

Above: Aerial view of Reichenau Island

Hungarian troops entered Swabia, as allies of the new Italian King, Hugh the Great (880 – 947), besieged Augsburg, and then occupied the Abbey of Saint Gallen, where they spared the life of the monk Heribald, whose accounts give a detailed description about their traditions and way of life. 

Above: Hugh the Great

Above: Town Hall Palace, Augsburg, Germany

The “Golden Age” of St. Gallen ended abruptly on 1 May 926, after travellers reported in the spring that the Hungarians were already advancing on their campaigns as far as Lake Constance. 

Since the dukes could not build up a joint defense in the divided East Frankish kingdom, they had nothing to oppose the plundering and pillaging gangs.

Above: Division of the Frankish Empire, 843

Abbot Engilbert decided to bring the students, the elderly and the sick to safety in the moated castle near Lindau, which belonged to the monastery.

Above: Lindau Island, Germany

Many of the writings were hidden in the friendly monastery of Reichenau.

The monks took themselves and the valuable cult objects to a refuge of safety in the Sitterswald. 

Above: Catholic Church, Sitterswald, Switzerland

At her express request, the hermit Wiborada was the only one left behind in the walled-up church of St. Mangen in the deserted town.

Above: St. Mangen Church, St. Gallen

From the Abbey the Magyars sent minor units to reconnoitre and plunder the surroundings.

When the Hungarians raided the city, they found nothing of value. 

They damaged buildings and altars and burned down the town’s wooden houses. 

The attackers also found Wiborada, but no entrance to their walled-up hermitage. 

Fire couldn’t harm her or the church, so the Hungarians uncovered the roof and killed her. 

The Hungarians did not dare to attack the monks’ refuge because of its inaccessible location. 

They were even attacked by the retreating monks. 

After the Hungarians left, the monks returned with the residents and rebuilt the damaged and burnt down houses. 

One of their units killed Wiborada who lived as an anchoress (female hermit) in a wood nearby.

Above: Church of St. Mangen

Wiborada was born to a wealthy noble family in Swabia.

When they invited the sick and poor into their home, Wiborada proved a capable nurse.

Her brother Hatto became a priest.

A pilgrimage to Rome influenced Hatto to decide to become a monk at the Abbey of Saint Gall, a decision which Wiborada supported.

After the death of their parents, Wiborada joined Hatto and became a Benedictine at the Abbey of Saint Gall.

Above: Portrayal of the young Ulrich with Wiborada

Wiborada became settled at the monastery and Hatto taught her Latin so that she could chant the Liturgy of the Hours.

There, she occupied herself by making Hatto’s clothes and helping to bind many of the books in the monastery library.

At this time, it appears that Wiborada was charged with some type of serious infraction or wrongdoing, and was subjected to the medieval practice of ordeal by fire to prove her innocence.

(Ordeal by fire was one form of torture.

The ordeal of fire typically required that the accused walk a certain distance, usually 9 feet (2.7 metres) or a certain number of paces, usually three, over red-hot ploughshares or holding a red-hot iron.

Innocence was sometimes established by a complete lack of injury, but it was more common for the wound to be bandaged and re-examined three days later by a priest, who would pronounce that God had intervened to heal it, or that it was merely festering — in which case the suspect would be exiled ot put to death.)

Above: After being accused of adultery Cunigunde of Luxembourg (975 – 104) proved her innocence by walking over red-hot ploughshares.

Although she was exonerated, the embarrassment probably influenced her next decision: withdrawing from the world and becoming an ascetic.

When she petitioned to become an anchoress, Solomon III, Bishop of Konstanz (r. 890 – 919), arranged for her to stay in a cell next to the Church of Saint George near the monastery, where she remained for four years before relocating to a cell adjoining the church of Magnus of Füssen in 891.

She became renowned for her austerity, and was said to have a gift of prophecy, both of which drew admirers and hopeful students.

Above: Wiborada with Solomon III, Bishop of Konstanz

One of these, a woman named Rachildis, whom Wiborada had cured of a disease, joined her as an anchoress.

Above: Healing of a sick person with the comb relic of Wiborada

A young student at St. Gall, Ulrich (890 – 973), is said to have visited Wiborada often.

Wiborda supposedly prophesied his elevation to the Episcopate of Augsburg.

(Ulrich was the first saint to be canonized not by a local authority but by the Pope.)

Above: Statue of Ulrich von Augsburg (890 – 973), St. Agatha Chapel, Disentis, Graubünden, Switzerland

In 925, Wiborada predicted a Hungarian invasion of her region.

Her warning allowed the priests and religious of St. Gall and St. Magnus to hide their books and wine and escape into caves in nearby hills. 

The most precious manuscripts were transferred to the monastery at Reichenau Island.

However, the main refuge castle for the monks and the Abbot was the Waldburg in the Sitterwood.

Abbot Engilbert urged Wiborada to escape to safety, but she refused to leave her cell.

On 8 May 926 the Magyar marauders reached St. Gall.

They burned down St. Magnus and broke into the roof of Wiborada’s cell.

Upon finding her kneeling in prayer, they clove her skull with a fokos (shepherd’s axe).

Above: Earliest representation of Wiborada

Her companion Rachildis was not killed, and lived another 21 years, during which her disease returned.

She spent the rest of her life learning patience through suffering.

Wiborada’s refusal to leave her cell and the part she played in saving the lives of the priests and religious of her convent have merited her the title of martyr.

Above: The martyrdom of Wiborada

On 26 April 937, a fire broke out and destroyed much of the Abbey and the adjoining settlement, though the library was undamaged.

About 954 they started to protect the monastery and buildings by a surrounding wall.

Circa 974 Abbot Notker (r. 971 – 975) (about whom almost nothing is known, except that he was the nephew of Notker Physicus (d. 975) – “the physician“) finalized the walling.

The adjoining settlements started to become the town of St Gall. 

Above: Abbey and surroundings, St. Gallen

The Abbey was the northernmost place where a sighting of the 1006 supernova was recorded, likely the brightest observed stellar event in recorded history.

Above: Remnant of Supernova 1006

In 1207, Abbot Ulrich von Sax was made a Prince of the Holy Roman Empire by King Philip of Germany (1177 – 1208).

Above: Coat of arms of the von Sax dynasty

The Abbey thus became a Princely Abbey (Reichsabtei).

As the Abbey became more involved in politics, it entered a period of decline.

Above: Philip of Swabia (1177 – 1208)

The city of St. Gallen proper progressively freed itself from the rule of the Abbot, acquiring imperial immediacy, and by the late 15th century was recognized as a Free Imperial City.

By 1353 the guilds, headed by the cloth weavers guild, gained control of the civic government.

In 1415 the City bought its liberty from German King Sigismund (1368 – 1437).

During the 14th century Humanists were allowed to carry off some of the rare texts from the Abbey Library.

Above: Sigismund of Luxembourg (1368 – 1437)

In the late 14th and early 15th centuries, the farmers of the Abbot’s personal estates (known as Appenzell, from the Latin abbatis cella meaning “cell (i.e. estate) of the Abbot“) began seeking independence.

In 1401, the first of the Appenzell Wars (1401 – 1429) broke out, and following the Appenzell victory at Stoss in 1405 they became allies of the Swiss Confederation in 1411.

Above: Battle of Vögelinsegg

Above: Battle of Stoss Pass (1405) Memorial

During the Appenzell Wars, the town of St. Gallen often sided with Appenzell against the Abbey.

So when Appenzell allied with the Confederation, the town of St. Gallen followed just a few months later.

The Abbey became an ally of several members of the Swiss Confederation (Zürich, Luzern, Schwyz and Glarus) in 1451, while Appenzell and St. Gallen became full members of the Swiss Confederation in 1454.

In 1457 the town of St. Gallen became officially free from the Abbey.

Above: Coat of arms of the City of St. Gallen

In 1468 Abbot Ulrich Rösch bought the County of Toggenburg from the representative of its counts, after the family died out in 1436.

In 1487 Rösch founded a monastery at Rorschach on Lake Constance, to which he planned to move.

Above: Rorschach, Switzerland

However, he encountered stiff resistance from the St. Gallen citizenry, other clerics, and the Appenzell nobility in the Rhine Valley who were concerned about their holdings.

Above: Abbot Ulrich Rösch (1463 – 1491)

The town of St. Gallen wanted to restrict the increase of power of the Abbey and simultaneously increase the power of the town.

The Mayor of St. Gallen, Ulrich Varnbüler, established contact with farmers and Appenzell residents (led by the fanatical Hermann Schwendiner) who were seeking an opportunity to weaken the Abbot.

Initially, Varnbüler protested to the Abbot and the representatives of the four sponsoring Confederate cantons (Zürich, Lucerne, Schwyz, and Glarus) against the construction of the new Abbey in Rorschach.

Then on 28 July 1489 he had armed troops from St. Gallen and Appenzell destroy the buildings already under construction.

Above: Portrait of Ulrich Varnbüler (1432 – 1496), Albrecht Dürer

When the Abbot complained to the Confederates about the damages and demanded full compensation, Varnbüler responded with a counter suit and in cooperation with Schwendiner rejected the arbitration efforts of the non-partisan Confederates.

He motivated the clerics from Wil to Rorschach to discard their loyalty to the Abbey and spoke against the Abbey at a town meeting in Waldkirch, where the popular league was formed.

He was confident that the four sponsoring cantons would not intervene with force, due to the prevailing tensions between the Confederation and the Swabian League.

He was strengthened in his resolve by the fact that the people of St. Gallen elected him again to the highest magistrate in 1490.

Above: The Abbot’s coat of arms

However, in early 1490 the four cantons decided to carry out their duty to the Abbey and to invade the St. Gallen canton with an armed force.

The people of Appenzell and the local clerics submitted to this force without noteworthy resistance, while the city of St. Gallen braced for a fight to the finish.

However, when they learned that their compatriots had given up the fight, they lost confidence.

The end result was that they concluded a peace pact that greatly restricted the city’s powers and burdened the city with serious penalties and reparations payments.

Above: Old houses of St. Gallen

Varnbüler and Schwendiner fled to the court of King Maximilian (1459 – 1519) and lost all their property in St. Gallen and Appenzell.

However, the Abbot’s reliance on the Swiss to support him reduced his position almost to that of a “subject district“.

Above: Maxmilian I, Holy Roman Emperor

The town adopted the Reformation in 1524, while the Abbey remained Catholic, which damaged relations between the town and Abbey.

Both the Abbot and a representative of the town were admitted to the Swiss Tagsatzung (parliament) as the closest associates of the Confederation.

In the 16th century the Abbey was raided by Calvinist groups, who scattered many of the old books. 

Above: Tadsatzung, Baden, 1531

In 1530, Abbot Diethelm began a restoration that stopped the decline and led to an expansion of the schools and library.

Under Abbot Pius Reher (r. 1630 – 1654) a printing press was started.

Above: Pius Reher (1597 – 1654)

In 1712 during the Toggenburg War (also called the Second War of Villmergen), the Abbey of St. Gall was pillaged by the Confederation.

They took most of the books and manuscripts to Zürich and Bern.

For security, the Abbey was forced to request the protection of the townspeople of St. Gallen.

Until 1457 the townspeople had been serfs of the Abbey, but they had grown in power until they were protecting the Abbey.

Above: Toggenburg War map – Protestant (green) / Catholic (yellow) / Neutral (grey)

Following the disturbances, the Abbey was still the largest religious city-state in Switzerland, with over 77,000 inhabitants.

A final attempt to expand the abbey resulted in the demolition of most of the medieval monastery.

The new structures, including the Cathedral by architect Peter Thumb (1681–1766), were designed in the late Baroque style and constructed between 1755 and 1768.

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

The large and ornate new Abbey did not remain a monastery for very long.

In 1798 the Prince-Abbot’s secular power was suppressed and the Abbey was secularized.

The monks were driven out and moved into other abbeys.

The Abbey became a separate See (a bishop’s ecclesiastical jurisdiction) in 1846, with the Abbey church as its Cathedral and a portion of the monastic buildings reserved for the Bishop.

Above: Abbey

The Abbey of St. Gall, the monastery and especially its celebrated scriptorium played an illustrious part in Catholic and intellectual history until it was secularised in 1798.

The former Abbey church became a Cathedral in 1848.

Since 1983 the abbey precinct has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as “a perfect example of a great Carolingian monastery”.

Above: Abbey

St. Gall is the name of a wheel shaped hard cheese made from the milk of Friesian cows, which won a Gold Medal at the World Cheese Awards held in Dublin 2008.

Canadian writer Robertson Davies, in his book, The Manticore, interprets the legend in Swiss psychologist Carl Jung (1875 – 1961) terms.

In the final scene of the novel where David Staunton is celebrating Christmas with Lizelloti Fitziputli, Magnus Eisengrim, and Dunstan Ramsay, he is given a gingerbread bear.

Ramsay explains that Gall made a pact of peace with a bear who was terrorizing the citizens of the nearby village.

They would feed the bear gingerbread and the bear would refrain from eating them.

The parable is presented as a Jungian exhortation to make peace with one’s dark side.

This Jungian interpretation is however incompatible with Catholic Orthodoxy which Gall promoted.

It is all a matter of what you choose to believe.

Even today, the Abbey Library is celebrated as Switzerland’s finest secular Rococo interior and one of the oldest libraries in Europe with its huge collection of rare medieval books and manuscripts.

The visitor enters beneath a sign that reads YUCHS IATREION (Greek for “Pharmacy of the Soul).

By the entrance are dozens of oversized felt grey slippers.

Slip your shoe-clad feet into a pair, to protect the inlaid wooden floor.

The 28m X 10m room is dynamic.

Designed by the same Peter Thumb who worked on the Cathedral, the Library’s orthodox Baroque architecture is overlaid with opulent Rococo decoration.

The four ceiling frescoes by Josef Wannenmacher depict with bold trompe l’oeil perspectives the early Christian theological Councils of Nicaea (modern Iznik, Turkey), Constantinople (modern Istanbul), Ephesus (modern Selçuk, Turkey), and Chalcedon (Kadiköy district, Istanbul).

Above: The Council of Nicaea, with Arius depicted as defeated by the council, lying under the feet of Emperor Constantine

Above: Miniature of the Council of Constantinople (AD 381). Emperor Theodosius I and a crowd of bishops seated on a semicircular bench, on either side of an enthroned Gospel Book. An heretic, Macedonius, occupies the lower left corner of the miniature.

Above: Council of Ephesus (431)

Above: Council of Chalcedon (451)

Among the wealth of smaller frescoes set among the ceiling stucco, in the corner directly above the entrance door, you will spot the Venerable Bede, a 7th century English monk from Northumbria who wrote one of the first histories of England.

Above: The Venerable Bede (672 – 735), The Last Chapter, J. Boyle Penrose

Above: Statue of the Venerable Bede, St. Gallen Abbey

The books are ranged on floor-to-ceiling shelves all around.

Its list of cultural treasures among its over 160,000 volumes is extraordinary.

There are more Irish manuscripts in St. Gallen than there are in Dublin, with 15 handwritten examples including a Latin manuscript of the Gospels dating from 750.

Other works include:

  • an astronomical textbook written in 300 BCE
  • copies made in the 5th century of works by Virgil, Horace and other classical authors
  • texts written by the Venerable Bede in his original Northumbrian language
  • the oldest book to have survived in German, dating from the 8th century

Above: Abbey Library

One of the more interesting documents in the Stiftsbibliothek is a copy of Priscian’s (circa 500) Institutiones grammaticae, (the standard textbook for the study of Latin during the Middle Ages), which contains the poem Is acher in gaith in-nocht, written in Old Irish.

Above: Institutiones Grammaticae, 1290, Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, Firenze (Florence), Italy

The Library also preserves a unique 9th century document, known as the Plan of St. Gall, the only surviving major architectural drawing from the roughly 700-year period between the fall of the Western Roman Empire and the 13th century.

The Plan drawn was never actually built, and was so named because it was kept at the famous medieval monastery library, where it remains to this day.

The Plan was an ideal of what a well-designed and well-supplied monastery should have, as envisioned by one of the synods held at Aachen (814 – 817) for the reform of monasticism in the Frankish Empire during the early years of Emperor Louis the Pious.

Above: Plan of Saint Gall (simplified)

A late 9th century drawing of St. Paul lecturing an agitated crowd of Jews and Gentiles, part of a copy of a Pauline epistles produced at and still held by the Monastery, was included in a medieval drawing show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City in the summer of 2009.

A reviewer noted that the artist had “a special talent for depicting hair, with the saint’s beard ending in curling droplets of ink“.

Above: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City

St. Gall is noted for its early use of the neume, the basic element of Western and Eastern systems of musical notation prior to the invention of five-line staff notation.

The earliest extant manuscripts are from the 9th or 10th century.

A few treasures of the Library are displayed in glass cases, with exhibits changed regularly.

Incongruously (as in “What the Hell is this doing here?“), there is an Egyptian mummy dating from 700 BCE, a gift to the mayor of St. Gallen in the early 19th century.

Unsure of what to do with it, he plonked it in this corner of the Library, where it has since remained.

Above: Abbey Library

Diagonally opposite stands a beautifully intricate 2.3m-high globe depicting both celestial and earthly maps.

It is, in fact, a replica.

The original, dating from 1570, was stolen by Zürich troops in 1712 and stands in the National Museum.

To resolve the dispute, Canton Zürich agreed to produce this copy, which was completed in 2009.

Above: Abbey Library

I find myself thinking of the reverence that is given to copies.

A globe is replicated and its replication is mentioned in the smallest print possible with the least fanfare required.

Those who do not question its authenticity need not know it isn’t the original.

This leads to me to ponder:

How far from the origins of our religions have we strayed?

We are told that Christ existed but the proof lies solely in the Gospels which promote His Name.

We are told that Muhammad existed but it is blasphemy to even sketch a likeness of how the Prophet may have looked.

We choose to believe in that which we can neither prove nor disprove.

Much like love, faith is manifested not in what is professed but rather by how it is manifested in the lives of its true believers.

By deeds we decide our dedication.

By actions we activate our ardour.

Above: Prevailing world religions map

All of which leaves me thinking of the Chris Nolan film The Dark Knight….

It’s not about what I want, it’s about what’s FAIR!

You thought we could be decent men in an indecent time.

But you were wrong.

The world is cruel and the only morality in a cruel world is chance.

Unbiased, unprejudiced, fair.

Above: Aaron Eckhart as Harvey Dent/Two Face, The Dark Knight

Because sometimes…

The truth isn’t good enough.

Sometimes people deserve more.

Sometimes people deserve to have their faith rewarded.

Above: Christian Bale as Batman / Bruce Wayne, The Dark Knight

Perhaps this is why we build cathedrals and mosques and temples?

To show how our faith has rewarded us?

Above: Ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Nothing left to do
When you know that you’ve been taken
Nothing left to do
When you’re begging for a crumb
Nothing left to do
When you’ve got to go on waiting
Waiting for the miracle to come

Waiting for the Miracle“, Leonard Cohen

Above: Leonard Cohen (1934 – 2016)

According to the 2000 census, 31,978 or 44.0% were Roman Catholic, while 19,578 or 27.0% belonged to the Swiss Reformed Church.

Of the rest of the population, there were 112 individuals (or about 0.15% of the population) who belong to the Christian Catholic faith, there were 3,253 individuals (or about 4.48% of the population) who belong to the Orthodox Church, and there were 1,502 individuals (or about 2.07% of the population) who belong to another Christian church.

There were 133 individuals (or about 0.18% of the population) who were Jewish, and 4,856 (or about 6.69% of the population) who were Muslim.

There were 837 individuals (or about 1.15% of the population) who belonged to another church (not listed on the census), 7,221 (or about 9.94% of the population) belonged to no church, were agnostic or atheist, and 3,156 individuals (or about 4.35% of the population) did not answer the question.

There are 28 sites in St. Gallen that are listed as Swiss Heritage Sites of National Significance, including four religious buildings:

  • the Abbey of St. Gallen

Above: St. Gallen Abbey

  • the former Dominican Abbey of St. Katharina

The St. Gallen Monastery of St. Catherine has had a turbulent history since it was founded in 1228.

The founding document dates dates back to 30 June 1228.

It is a late Gothic splendour – beautiful and one of the oldest buildings in the city.

The history of the order goes back to the 13th and 14th centuries.

The monastery was named after the martyr Catherine of Alexandria.

Until 1266 St. Catherine was a monastery of the Augustinians, until in 1368 the resident nuns adopted the Dominican rule.

The great fire of 20 April 1418 greatly affected the monastery.

The last woman entering the monastery, Katharina von Watt, was a sister of the longtime Mayor and patron of the Reformation, Joachim von Watt (Vadian).

In 1527 the monastery became a victim of the Reformation:

Council servants commissioned by the authorities entered into the monastery church and destroyed the cult objects.

In 1555 the last sisters left the St. Gallen Monastery of St. Catherine.

Today only the cloister and the church have survived from the monastery complex.

You can walk through the cloister and there is a library which can be visited.

There is also a old church (of course) but the opening times are said to be very special…

Above: The Monastery of St. Catherine, St. Gallen

  • the Reformed Church of St. Lawrence

The St. Laurenzen Church is the Evangelical Reformed parish church of the city of St. Gallen. 

The construction of the first church is estimated to be in the middle of the 12th century. 

The church was the political, religious and social center of the city republic of St. Gallen for almost 300 years and has had a lasting influence on the history of the city.

Today it is still a meeting room for the town’s local citizens. 

The church takes its name from the martyr Lawrence of Rome to whom it was dedicated. It is classified as a building worthy of national protection (highest of the three protection levels) and as a monument of national importance it is therefore under federal monument protection.

Above: Church of St. Lawrence, St. Gallen

  • the Roman Catholic parish church of St. Maria Neudorf

Above: St. Maria Neudorf, St. Gallen

One of the most important organs in Switzerland is located in the church of St. Maria Neudorf in the east of the city of St. Gallen. 

Their history and construction are not commonplace. 

It is a monumental organ that was built in 1927 by organ builder Willisau according to the principles of the Alsatian organ reform. 

It is the largest organ in the city of St. Gallen and, with its remote control, is one of the largest surviving organs from this period.

Above: Organ, St. Maria Neudorf

Also worth viewing are:

  • Greek Orthodox Church of St. Constantine and St. Helena with its Athonite icons and a stained glass window of the Last Judgment

Above: Greek Orthodox Church of St. Constantine and St. Helena, St. Gallen

Above: St. Constantine and St. Helena

Above: Details of the Last Judgment

  • Protestant Church of Linsebühl, an impressive new Renaissance building dating from 1897

The striking Linsebühl Church, built in 1895-1897 in neo-Renaissance style, is a little off the beaten track of traffic but still central. 

The richly decorated interior was extensively restored in 1992 and offers a festive and, at the same time, a somewhat playful atmosphere with excellent acoustics for music and singing.

The organ by the Goll company from Luzern, built in 1897 and restored in 1992, with pneumatic action, three manuals, a pedal and 38 registers, is one of the few surviving purely romantic organs and is known far beyond the city and canton borders.


In addition to the usually well-attended church services, some concerts take place in the Linsebühl church.

With its large forecourt and neighboring parish hall, it is also very suitable for weddings and other festive occasions.


With its galleries, the Church offers space for 810 people (The nave alone can hold ​​512 people).

Above: Linsebühl Reformed Church, St. Gallen

  • Catholic church of St. Martin in the Bruggen district, this concrete church built in 1936 was at that time glaringly modern

This third Catholic Church of St. Martin Bruggen was completed in 1936 next to its predecessor church. 

The first chapel was consecrated in 1600 and converted into a proper church in 1639. 

The second church was completed on the site of the first in 1785 and received a new tower in 1808. 

After the new building and the consecration of today’s church, the southwestern old church was demolished.

Above: St. Martin Church, Bruggen, St. Gallen

The church is named after Saint Martin of Tours. 

A life-size equestrian statue of him stands in front of the church, together with a beggar.

Above: St. Martin Bruggen Reformed Church, St. Gallen

(While Martin was a soldier in the Roman army and stationed in Gaul (modern-day France), he experienced a vision, which became the most-repeated story about his life.

One winter’s day, at the gates of Amiens, Martin met a poor, unclothed man. 

Martin was carrying nothing but his guns and military coat. 

In a merciful act, he divided his cloak with the sword and gave half to the poor man. 

The following night Christ appeared to Martin in a dream, dressed in half the cloak that he had given the beggar. 

I was naked and you clothed me….

What you did to one of these least of these my brothers, you did to me.” (Matthew 25: 35 – 40) )

Above: Martin and the beggar, El Greco

  • Synagogue St. Gallen, built by architects Chiodera and Tschudy, it is the only synagogue in the Lake Constance region that has been preserved in its original state.

Above: St. Gallen Synagogue

The first document mentioning Jews in St. Gall is dated in 1268.

In 1292 two houses in the town were inhabited by Jews.

On 23 February 1349, during the Black Death, Jewish inhabitants were burned or driven out.

Jews were not allowed to settle in St. Gall again until the 19th century.

The Jews, who then lived in a special quarter, the “Hinterlauben” or “Brotlauben” were accused of having poisoned the wells.

St. Gallen followed the example of other towns near the Lake of Constance, imprisoning the Jews, burning them alive, or at best expelling them and confiscating their property.

For a long time after this event no Jews lived in St. Gall.

In modern times the right of settlement was granted only very exceptionally to a few Jews, who had to pay heavily for the concession.

Even after the wars of independence the St. Gallen “Jews’ Law” of 15 May 1818, though not strictly enforced by the government, placed the Jews under severe restrictions.

These laws remained on the statute books until the emancipation of the Jews of Switzerland in February 1863.

On 8 April 1864, the present Jewish community was constituted, the members having moved to St. Gall from the nearby town of Hohenems (Austria).

On 21 September 1881, the present synagogue was consecrated.

Religious services were organized, Hebrew and religious classes founded.

Soon afterward the cemetery was laid out.

The dead had previously been conveyed to one of the neighboring communities.

Above: Jewish cemetery, St. Gallen

Jews played a prominent role in the St. Gall textile industry until 1912, especially in the famous embroidery branch.

In 1919 refugees from Eastern Europe settled in St. Gallen, forming a separate community.

German and Austrian Jewish refugees began crossing the border into the Canton in 1938, and a refugee care organization was set up there.

Above: Judaica – candlesticks, etrog box, shofar, Torah pointer, Tanach, natla

From 1939 to 1944 the town was the centre for preparing Jewish refugee children for Youth Aliyah to Palestine.

Above: Youth Aliyah commemorative stamp

In 1944, 1,350 Jews (mostly Hungarian) from the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp were brought to St. Gallen.

Above: A British Army bulldozer pushes dead bodies into a mass grave at Belsen, Germany, 19 April 1945

A year later 1,200 Jews from Theresienstadt concentration camp arrived.

Above: Memorial to Jewish Victims, Terezin (formerly Theresienstadt), Czech Republic

Above: Three Jewish children rescued from Theresienstadt recuperate in St. Gallen, 11 February 1945

Police officer Paul Grüninger, later designated as “Righteous among the Gentiles“, helped Jewish refugees after 1938.

Above: Righteous Among the Nations medal

He was ousted from office, lost his pension, and died in misery.

Years after his death, citizens fought successfully for his posthumous rehabilitation.

A square in St. Gallen is named after him.

Above: Paul Grüninger (1891 – 1972)

Above: Grüningerplatz, St. Gallen

Above: Paul Brüninger Bridge between Diepoldsau, Germany and Hohenems, Austria

The Jewish inhabitants of St. Gallen increased numerically over the course of time through frequent migrations from the communities of Endingen and Lengnau, Gailingen (Baden), Laupheim (Württemberg), and from other places.

The Jews of St. Gallen exceed 500 in a total population of over 33,000.

Above: Entry to the Jewish Museum of Switzerland, Basel

The El Hidaje Mosque is an unassuming building that received public attention when a man was shot dead during a Friday prayer on 22 August 2014.

Police arrested an individual with a handgun when they were called after reports of gunfire.

A man was found dead in the mosque’s prayer room, a police spokesman said.

Around 300 people were reportedly in the mosque for Friday prayers at the time of the shooting.

It was not immediately clear what the motive may have been.

Witnesses believe the killing may have been linked to a family dispute dating back a number of years, Swiss newspaper 20 Minutes reported.

The El-Hidaje mosque is used by St Gallen’s Albanian Muslim community.

Fehim Dragusha, a former Imam at the mosque, told Switzerland’s Radio FM1:

Albanians and Muslims should not bring problems from their home country into Switzerland.

Above: El-Hidaje Mosque, St. Gallen

There are at least 50 places of worship across St. Gallen where people can gather to publicly proclaim their devotion to God.

And in none of them do I get a sense of the presence of God (presuming His existence) within.

This is not to say that others are not inspired by their visits to these sanctuaries of faith, but I am not one of them.

I defend a person’s right to believe (or not believe) what they will providing this practice does no harm to others

For myself what religious feeling I may have experienced has always been in the midst of walking.

An activity of late that has gone sadly neglected since my return to Eskişehir last month, though walking is an activity that requires few expenses to do.

We live in a time where the lines of conflict have been drawn between secrecy and openness, between the consolidation and the dispersal of power, between privatization and public ownership, between power and life.

Walking has always been on the side of the latter.

Walking itself has not changed the world – though it does seem that so many religious leaders have found their particular testaments during such activity – but walking has been a rite, a tool, a reinforcement of a civil society that stands up to violence, to fear, and to repression.

Indeed, it is hard to imagine a viable civil society without the free association and the knowledge of the terrain that comes with walking.

A sequestered or passive population is not quite a citizenry.

Insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space and will to walk and against the version of humanity that act embodies.

One force is the filling-up of “the time in-between“, the time between places.

This time has been deplored as a waste, so it is filled with earphones and mobile phone screens.

The ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the useless, has evaporated, as does appreciation of being outside – including outside the familiar.

Our mobile phones serve as a buffer against solitude, silence and thought.

We have become immobile and inactive.

We have forgotten that our bodies are built to be used, that our bodies were not meant to be passive, that our bodies are inherent sources of power.

While walking, the body and the mind can work together, so that thinking becomes a physical, rhythmic act.

Spirituality enters in as we move through urban and rural planes of existence.

Past and present combine as we relive events in our personal histories.

Each walk moves through space like a thread through fabric, sewing it together into a continuous experience – unlike the way other modes of travel chop up time and space.

It starts with a step and then another and then another, adding up like taps on a drum to a rhythm, the rhythm of walking.

Walking is an investigation, a ritual, a meditation.

We invest a universal act with particular meanings, from the erotic to the spiritual, from the revolutionary to the artistic.

A desk is no place to think on a large scale.

An absolutely new prospect is a great happiness and I can still get this any afternoon.

Two or three hours’ walking will carry me to as strange a country as I expect ever to see.

A single farmhouse which I had not seen before is sometimes as good as the dominions of the King of Dahomey.

There is in fact a sort of harmony discoverable between the capabilities of the landscape and the threescore and ten years of human life.

It will never become quite familiar to you.

Henry David Thoreau

Above: Henry David Thoreau (1817 – 1862)

It is the unpredictable incidents between official events that add up to a life, the incalculable that gives it value.

Walking is about being outside, in public space, but public space is being abandoned and eroded, eclipsed by technologies and services that don’t require leaving home.

Outside has been shadowed by fear, for strange places are always more frightening than familiar ones, so the less one wanders the more alarming it seems, and so the fewer the wanderers the more lonely and dangerous it really becomes.

Above: Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust (Dutch edition)

The newer the place, the less public space.

Malls have replaced Main Street, the streets have no sidewalks, buildings are entered through the garage, City Hall has no plaza, and everywhere everything has walls and bars and gates.

Fear has created the landscape where to be a pedestrian is to be under suspicion.

Too many have forgotten that it is the random, the unscreened, that allows you to find what you didn’t know you were looking for.

And you don’t know a place until it surprises you.

Above: Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust (Spanish edition)

But we have come to a place in society where the road ends, where there is no public space and we have paved Paradise to put up a parking lot, a world where leisure is shrinking and being crushed under the anxiety to produce, where bodies are not in the world but indoors in transport and buildings.

We have gained speed and lost purpose.

When you give yourself to places, they give you yourself back.

The more you come to know a place, the more you seed it with an invisible crop of memories and associations that will be waiting for your return, while new places offer up new thoughts and new possibilities.

Walking came from Africa, from evolution, and from necessity.

It went everywhere, usually looking for something.

And this is the essence of walking, the search for something intangible.

Above: (in green) Africa

This is the essence of the pilgrimage, a literal means of spiritual journey, wherein the journey is more significant than the destination itself, for it is the journey that develops us spiritually.

Walking lets us be in that non-believer’s Paradise, that Heaven on Earth, nature.

To consider Earth holy is to connect the lowest and most material to the most high and ethereal, to close the breach between matter and spirit.

The world is holy and the sacred is underfoot rather than above.

The journey of the outside is also a journey within.

And there have been people in St. Gallen that remind me of the holy underfoot and the surprising compassion of those not out to earn their own “salvation” but who only seek to help others to find theirs.

Each time we are reunited, Augustin and I stroll through town.

He does not point out the attractions, but somehow I feel that I am seeing St. Gallen through his eyes and not my own.

His manner of expression lends majesty to the path upon which we walk.

Above: My friend Augustin

I have known Augustin for a decade when we were both employed at the Starbucks Bahnhof St. Gallen.

He is truly a remarkable man.

Augustin – a wonderful mix of French and African…

As welcoming to Switzerland as rain in the desert….

When I broke both my arms in 2018 and needed to be rehabilitated in Mammern – 26 miles / 42 km northwest of St. Gallen – he was my sole visitor (save my wife) who came out to visit me.

Everyone has busy lives and yet he found the time – made the time – to visit someone who should have given him, should still give him, more of his time and attention.

Above: Augustin and your humble blogger, Mammern, Switzerland, 2 June 2018

On 22 January 2022, after very little contact or communication between us, he invited me to his new apartment he shares with his lady love Laura and he cooked us a delicious dinner and continuously gave and gave to me whatever I might desire.

I left his apartment feeling humbled and honoured by the hospitality and love shown to me.

May I always be worthy.

Above: Laura and Augustin

Augustin is one of the hardest workers I have ever had the honour of working with.

He truly gives the adage “It is not the job that brings dignity to the man. It is the man who brings dignity to the job.” meaning.

He is one of those rare individuals who may not have always been blessed with the wealth that others take for granted, but he remains generous to a fault.

He came to Switzerland in dire straits.

He spoke truth to power and his homeland’s government desired to imprison him for his sacrilege.

He remains an exile from his home, from his loved ones there, until the politics therein, perhaps, one day, changes.

He has since become a Swiss citizen and, as such, acts responsibly, deserving of that privilege.

He has built a life for himself, has found a lady love and has achieved a happiness he so richly deserves, for he has gotten from the universe what he has given to it and fortune has rewarded him accordingly.

His is one of those friendships, like so many friendships this rolling stone has been miraculously been blessed with, that needs no reciprocation and yet rewards those who treat him with dignity and respect.

Above: Coat of arms of Switzerland

Augustin is my mirror.

I cannot even begin to guess the mind of another person, but perhaps the dignity and respect I have shown him compels him to show me the same.

Despite this, I get the feeling that he does not give in order to get.

He is not good (at least, to me) out of any expectation.

Nor do I get a sense of his feeling entitled to reciprocation.

(Unlike some I have known…..)

Augustin, the Augustin I know, is a man fit to be any other man’s role model of what a good person is, of what a good person can be.

I am blessed by his friendship.

Above: Augustin

Perhaps I should not be so surprised and touched when people are nice to me.

And yet I am, almost every time, when an act of human kindness touches my life.

I am even surprised when my own wife is kind to me, for we have had our differences over the years.

(My sojourn in Turkey has not helped the relationship.)

Like most men, I am probably undeserving of a good woman’s (or perhaps even a bad woman’s) love.

Above: The Wedding, Edmund Blair Leighton

I think of my last visit to Switzerland and the friends I encountered when I was there:

  • Volkan, assistant Starbucks store manager and talented singer, is a man of surprising depth at times.
  • Nesha, of Belgrade and Herisau, has always been a friend with whom I can share moments of laughter.
  • Naomi, Canadian from Vancouver and Starbucks barista, a woman torn between ambition and affection, is a woman who leads with her heart despite the misgivings of her head.
  • Alanna, Canadian from Nova Scotia, Starbucks shift manager and independent store operator, is one of the strongest women I know, whose will is as powerful as her beauty.
  • Katja is a woman whose wanderlust and passion for life matches my own.
  • Sinan is a young man whose maturity belies the youthfulness of his features, a good father, a good husband, a good friend.
  • Michael is a young man who reminds me of myself in my younger days, so confident in what he knows, still unaware that the passage of time will confirm that there will always be more we don’t understand, that the knowledge we do have is merely a beginning, that it is never the completion of all we need to know, he is a young man who in discovering the world discovers himself.
  • Sonja, former Starbucks store manager, now an independent vendor in the Luzern region, is always compassionate to me whenever we see one another.
  • Ricardo, former Starbucks store manager, is another friend who is easy to misjudge, but, at least with me, he has proven ready to assist me should I ask him.
  • Pedro, Starbucks store manager, started at Starbucks shortly after I did, but unlike me was determined to rise within its ranks, is a person I am proud to know, for despite his success he has always respected that I walk a different path than he does.
  • Ute, my wife, my life, is as part of my being as breathing, a woman who deserves far better than myself, but Karma is a tricky thing!

These are the few I was fortunate enough to see during my last visit.

There remain others that time and circumstance prevented our reunion.

I have been blessed by these and other friends (and family) in other places (Canada, Britain, Australia, New Zealand, America, Germany, Austria, Paraguay, Turkey).

Do others see these friends different than I see them?

Most assuredly.

Some of my friends may not even like other friends of mine.

What may be said of their lives outside of my experience of them I can neither confirm nor deny.

I only judge them by their actions towards me.

And it is by their actions that I know them.

It is their actions towards me that restores my faith in humanity and in life itself.

They are my religion, my sustenance, the very breath I take, the reason I live, the courage to love.

Friends offer enormous comfort.

They help to structure your time.

They show you that you belong and can be cared about.

A man who lacks a network of friends is seriously impaired from living his life, from having a life worth living.

A man’s friends alleviate the neurotic overdependence on a wife or a girlfriend for every emotional need.

If a man, going through a “rough patch”, gets help from his friends as well as his partner, then his burden is shared.

If his problems are with his partner (as they often are) then his friends can help him through, talk sense into him, stop him acting stupidly and help him to release his grief.

I do not believe that men are as inarticulate as women claim.

We are simply inexperienced.

Our inarticulateness (a trait not shared by all men) simply comes from a history with a lack of sharing opportunities.

Millions of women complain about their male partner’s lack of feeling, their woodenness.

Men themselves (and I include myself in this) often feel numb and confused about what they really want.

But if men talked to each other more, perhaps they would understand themselves better.

Then perhaps we would then have more to say to our wives or girlfriends.

Sometimes only a man can understand what another man is feeling.

The same can be said for the empathy between women.

Men’s voices have a different tone than women’s.

Our feelings have a different tone as well.

We have more than enough feelings, but we lack the experience or opportunity to express them.

What does not help is that men are put into a double bind by society at large.

We are asked to simultaneously be more intimate and sensitive and yet be tough when needed.

As if feelings within a man need be as flexible as shifting gears in a car.

A considerable skill not innately part of ourselves.

We are reserved in expression, for expression requires trust in those who may listen.

Can we express hurt?

Can we express frustration?

Without fear of censure?

Without others minimizing these feelings?

Without advice given?

Without competition?

Men feel, but fear of showing weakness prevents expression.

Men can be noisy and wild and still be safe.

What annoys me about society is the demand that men must prove that they are men.

Men have nothing to prove.

Let men judge themselves by their own standards.

A man should not be judged for the manner in which he conveniently accommodates women.

Women have their own struggles.

Men have theirs.

Equality between the genders is only possible if there is negotiation and fairness, non-threatening behaviour (from both genders), mutual respect, mutual trust and support, honesty and accountability (from both genders), shared responsibility and economic partnership.

They are “my North, my South, my East and West,
My working week and my Sunday rest,
My noon, my midnight, my talk, my song.

W.H. Auden

Above: Wystan Hugh Auden (1907 – 1973)

Time and distance often separates us, but while I think of them they remain ever close to my heart and are embedded in my soul.

If there is a God – and sometimes I think there just might be – then He manifests Himself in the manner in which He blesses our lives with our fellow human beings.

Everyone I meet has proven to be either a blessing or a lesson in my life.

I am humbled.

I am grateful.

Another friend once described me in the following way:

You are a walking/living contradiction.

Shy and timid on one extreme, courageous and adventurous on the other, extremely intelligent and yet naive at the same time…”

(I have been called worse!)

Do I contradict myself?
Very well then I contradict myself,
(I am large, I contain multitudes.)

Walt Whitman

Above: Walt Whitman (1819 – 1892)

I find myself remembering an old Facebook post I wrote during the days I travelled by train between Landschlacht and St. Gallen:

Above: Swiss Federal Railways network map

Normally I am unaffected by graffiti and undecided as to whether it should be viewed as an art form or as an act of vandalism.

But there is a graffiti scrawling on the wall of a factory (apple processing plant?) facing the railroad station of Neukirch-Egnach (between Romanshorn and St. Gallen) that always makes me smile for its powerful simplicity.

You are artwork.

Each and every one of us is a miracle, an artistic masterpiece.

Such a wise graffiti scrawl...

Heed the writing on the wall.

Above: Neukirch-Egnach Station, Switzerland

What a piece of work is man,

How noble in reason, how infinite in faculty,

In form and moving how express and admirable,

In action how like an angel,

In apprehension how like a god,

The beauty of the world,

The paragon of animals. 

Hamlet, Act 2, Scene ii, William Shakespeare

Above: Presumed portrait of William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

It is Easter Sunday, it is Passover, it is Ramadan.

I am merely a man.

Thank God.

Above: Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook / Rough Guide to Switzerland / Steve Biddulph, Manhood / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Reuters, “One dead in shooting at mosque in Switzerland“, 23 August 2014

Paris à la Moose

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Friday 3 December 2020

From Ronald Gross, The Independent Scholar’s Handbook:

At certain moments in our lives, mind seems to whisper to memory:

Print this.

Those moments stay with us: whether as words, perceptions, or the presence of a person.

Occasionally we fail to realize their significance at the time.

Dramatic moments that we assume will loom large fade with the years, while cruxes are contained in moments that occur unheralded, but stick and stay with us.

The Independent Scholar's Handbook: The Indispensable Guide for the  Stubborn Intelligence: Amazon.co.uk: Gross, Ronald: Books

Such moments have spurred this post….

Cafés have, since their naissance, always been gathering places for friends.

My café has been the café where once upon a time I used to work: Starbucks, Marktgasse, St. Gallen.

Kampagne Lieblingsplätze - Alltag

It is the place where I meet Byron (caramel macchiato with a layer of caramel topping on the bottom – Should that be caramel bottoming? – Sounds kinky!) once a week until he moves to California or I move to Turkey, whichever comes first.

Byron and I get together over coffee every Wednesday – (When we haven’t forgotten – we don’t have Alzheimer’s but we definitely have Sometimer’s – sometimes we remember, sometimes we forget.) – and simply talk about life and politics, cabbages and kings and all manner of things.

Today, I met Byron (he forgot yesterday’s appointment).

What was said sticks with me, demanding expression.

Above: Byron, the man, the legend

It has been my pleasure and privilege to assist Byron in his Great Escape from the country that fun forgot.

The Great Escape (film) poster.jpg

My German may not be proficient, but Byron still struggles with what Mark Twain describes “that awful German language” and I have been glad to assist him whenever I could.

Above: An example of a complete German word, illustration of “The Awful German Language” in Mark Twain’s A Tramp Abroad

In turn, Byron is teaching me how to market myself as a writer, how to sell my uniqueness, how to treat self-advertisement less as something morally repugnant as something crucially interesting.

I tell him of some resources I am using:

  • Writer’s Market 2020 (Writer’s Digest)
  • The Digital Nomad Handbook (Lonely Planet)
  • The Travel Writer’s Handbook, Louise Purwin Zobel (Surrey Books)

Paperrain.jpg

I tell him of some ideas I am cultivating, of walks I want to describe (some done, some yet to be done), of blog posts I might try and create a book from, of the types of travel pieces I would like to write and sell to support more travelling and more writing….

I play with thoughts of writing travel articles from my own experiences, wherein the readers see my trip through their eyes, enjoying the highlights and putting themselves in the hero’s role, perhaps re-living my adventures better than I lived them.

I muse over writing articles that offer advice of the sort that tells you when in Rome do as the Romans do and explains exactly what it is that the Romans actually do.

Rome Montage 2017.png

Above. Images of Rome, Italy

I hope that my humour comes through in my writing, gladly sacrificing my hubris in sharing my humanity.

The Court Jester (1955 poster).jpg

Perhaps I can write articles for special audiences in mind:

  • where to find romance in Rome
Young couple kissing in Rome with st. Peter dome in background — Stock  Video © videodream #98662934

  • where the best carpets can be found in Istanbul
See caption

Above: Images of Istanbul

  • the best pubs in London
View of Tower Bridge from Shad Thames

  • what to do on a Saturday night in Sudbury

Stompin' Tom Connors - Sudbury Saturday Night / Algoma Central #69 (1970,  Vinyl) | Discogs

Perhaps I can write articles that show folks how to do something somewhere:

  • the promise and problems of hiking in Canada

  • tips for hitching and living cheap in America

  • where to surf in Australia

Maybe articles of what to eat, what to do, what to see, creating the belief in my readers that they too can do the same.

Yes We Can

I want my readers to come with me on my journey, to feel that they are right beside me, experiencing the ear-shattering sounds and shoulder-shoving crowds of the Grand Bazaar, the peace and tranquillity of a campfire at sunset beside a silent Canadian lake, the magic of the northern lights as they crackle in the midnight sky above snow that crunches beneath the feet crossing an Arctic landscape.

Grand-Bazaar Shop.jpg

Pin by Drew Jensen on The beauty of the Universe | Fire photography,  Outdoor, Camping photography

I want them to watch with me as a river runs slowly, meandering through a maze of soft white sand banks and rock shores, choosing an uncertain path through unexplored territory.

Watching The River Run Painting by Dan Campbell | Saatchi Art

I want them to hear the wind rustle through the forest and listen to great blue water springs flowing sweet, cold and fresh.

I want them to feel the slickness of seaweed on rock, of sand between toes, of cold stone in night shadows of metropolitan mystery.

I want them to feel the earthshaking rumble of logs drifting down to the mills.

6 things you might not know about the Log Driver's Waltz | A.Side

I want them to hear the chop and slap of paddle wheel boats churning the waters of the Mississippi.

I want them to see in their mind’s eye a church atop a hillside like a nipple on a breast of dust.

A Church on a Hill | The Layman's Bible

I want them to hear the moo of cows on Swiss meadows.

10 Reasons Everyone Should Visit the Swiss Alps

To see tough weed tufts thrust themselves through cracks in hot Harlem pavement and dew on cobwebs after springtime showers and the frost on windowpanes in winter and the kaleidoscope of autumn leaves on Laurentian slopes.

More Benches Coming to East Harlem Sidewalks | Melissa Mark-Viverito

Free Images : dew, fauna, material, drip, invertebrate, spider web, cobweb,  dewdrop, arachnid, network, moisture, morgentau, arthropod 3264x2448 - -  1157652 - Free stock photos - PxHere

How to Avoid Frost on Windows - Bob Vila

simply vintageous...by Suzan: The Laurentian's in the Fall | Fall, The good  place, Scenery

The majesty of mountains, the grace of grass, the powerful ocean, the purpose of rivers.

To smell rain and wood smoke and pine forest and roses in the midday sun.

Paris Street; Rainy Day - Wikipedia

To hear songbirds sing and roosters crow and babies cry and brooks babble like politicians at election time.

Eopsaltria australis - Mogo Campground.jpg

Crying newborn baby

To sense the dignity of the ordinary, the romance in the rough, the magic of the moment, as intoxicating as the ambrosia of champagne in crystal glasses, as joyful as revels in a tavern.

Oh, to make the foreign feel familiar and the common place seem mysterious and exotic!

Life in all its electric vibrancy, to find oneself by getting lost in the possibilities of literature!

OnTheRoad.jpg

Byron and I begin to brainstorm.

He tells me of his favourite dog, a Hovawart named Moose, and of his / their favourite city, Paris.

And suddenly, mutually, we are inspired to create a saga of a city, a man and his dog.

No description available.

Above: Moose, the dog, the legend

From Heather Morris, Stories of Hope: Finding Inspiration in Everyday Lives:

Stories of Hope - Heather Morris - 9781786580481 - Allen & Unwin - Australia

1 January 2020

A new day dawns, a new year, a new decade.

A sense of hope for us, individually and collectively, as a global community, that it will be a “good year”.

If you wake up in the morning, it is a good day,” said Lale Skolov, the tattooist of Auschwitz.

The secret love of the Auschwitz tattooist - ABC News (Australian  Broadcasting Corporation)

Resolutions, both new and repeated from previous years, are made, perhaps whispered to our nearest and dearest.

If we share our hopes and dreams for the year, they stand a better chance of happening, we are told.

How To Write A To Do List That You'll Actually Stick To

The fireworks from the previous night, whether watched live or on a television set, the parties have packed up, hangovers are being nursed in a variety of ways.

16 Unforgettable Ways to Spend New Years Eve In Melbourne [2020]

Heather lives in Melbourne, on the east coast of Australia.

Melbourne montage 2019.jpg

Above: Images of Melbourne, Australia

This year, Australian celebrations were tempered, fireworks did not set off in many places.

Wishes were still made, hopes and dreams shared, but these too were tempered.

Everyone was concerned about the bushfires that had started not so long ago and remained far from being under control.

In fact, they would get worse.

Much worse.

2020 Australia Wildfires.png

Above: Images of the 2019 – 2020 Australian bushfire season

Over the next week towns were razed, people lost their lives, their homes, thei communities.

The impact on flora and fauna was devastating.

Images went around the world of Australia’s two most iconic symbols – kangaroos and koalas – becoming the symbols of death and despair.

New Zealand, Canada and the United States sent firefighters to help in what was fast becoming a natural disaster.

For several weeks it seemed nothing could stop this monstrous inferno as smaller blazes joined, charging from the mountains to the sea.

Prepare for the worst.

Hope for the best.

What was needed, what was prayed for was a rain of biblical proportions.

And eventually, this is what happened.

The heavens opened and for days it rained, helping to extinguish many of the fires.

The deluge on parched soil also wrought havoc, causing mudslides in areas weakened by the loss of gound-stabilizing trees.

Floods ravaged small towns, killing cattle and sheep, destroying homes.

Rain brings relief to fire-ravaged Australia but could hamper efforts to  stamp out raging bushfires | Daily Mail Online

But the worse was yet to come.

It was during this strange and unsettling time that the world first heard the words “corona virus” or “Covid-19″.

Illustration of a SARS-CoV-2 virion

Since then, the world has changed beyond measure. beyond belief, beyond comprehension, the worst experienced by anyone alive today.

It has brought stress levels to use individually and collectively like never before.

Loss of jobs.

Divorce.

Illness that many may take a long time, if ever, to recover from.

With modern media, both conventional and social, few stories of tragedy go unreported.

They are there, 24/7, for us to turn away from, then find ourselves turning back, such is our need to watch disasters unfold.

We have pulled together, but sadly, we have also pulled apart.

Curling up in the foetal position may be the only way some of us can blot out the pain of suffering emotionally, in our health, economically.

Pictures of Fetal Development Month-by-Month

We have tried to take care of each other.

After all, we are pack animals in a sense, drawn to human connection and contact.

We have looked for joy in our changed living conditions.

The smile of a young child oblivious to the pain of survival can be a huge tonic during an emotional low.

The need to get out of bed and feed a pet has been for many of us what gets us through the day.

Covid-19 is a common enemy that does not discriminate over religion, politics, gender orientation, race or age.

The pandemic’s effects are being felt around the globe.

For the first time in living memory, humanity has a common purpose, a common enemy which will be defeated by a common effort.

COVID-19 Outbreak World Map per Capita.svg

Above: Map of the Covid-19 verified number of infected per capita as of 2 December 2020 – the darker the region, the more cases therein

As of 2 December 2020, worldwide:

  • 65,220,566 confirmed cases
  • 41,931,463 recoveries
  • 1,506,157 deaths

At the height of the lockdown, Heather watched as a van pulled up outside a nearby house and a young girl took from the back a box, filled with groceries.

Heather smiled at the Hollywood scene of a French baguette poking out the top.

Heather watched as the girl knocked on the door, placed the box on the porch and stepped back.

The elderly woman living in the house must have seen her coming as the door opened immediately.

Heather heard her saying, “Thank you, thank you“, over and over.

Heather heard the emotion in her voice.

With a big smile and a “You are very welcome, I’ll see you in two days’ time“, the girl danced back to the van.

Stories of Hope: From the bestselling author of The Tattooist of Auschwitz:  Amazon.co.uk: Morris, Heather: 9781786580474: Books

Above: Heather Morris

Reflecting on this scene, Heather found herself thinking not about the elderly woman, but the young girl.

Was she volunteering because she had lost her job?

Was she a university student now denied her job?

Where had the groceries come from that she was handing out?

Donated or had she paid for them herself?

Information and curiosities of the Australian dollar | Global Exchange -  Currency exchange services

We can never know what is going on in other people’s lives.

What makes someone carry out acts of compassion and generosity?

What makes them act out, lash out, even abuse people trying to help them?

Heather has seen this reaction many times, working in a hospital.

Her daughter and son-in-law, both police officers, have seen it too many times.

Once again, we are reminded never to judge until we have walked a mile on someone else’s mocassins.

Midway through the year, the brutal murder of George Floyd by a police officer in the United States ignited a wave of anger and the demand for recognition that black lives matter around the world.

Heather is reminded of Lale’s words to her:

It does not matter what colour your skin, your religions, your ethnicity, your sexual orientation.

We all bleed the same colour.

George Floyd.png

Above: George Floyd (October 14, 1973 – May 25, 2020)

Right now, it is a difficult time.

To be denied intimate contact is hard.

People need physical contact, a hug, a handshake, a kiss, all of these now denied.

Study shows physical distancing slowed growth of COVID-19 in US

Perhaps it is time for all of us to stop and listen.

By listening to others we can find inspiration in the everyday lives of those around us.

Acute Kitty - Go on... I'm listening. #kitten #listening #dog #cat #meme |  Cute animals, Funny animals, Animals

Listening is an art.

And I hope that Byron will live a long and healthy life so he can tell me his story.

I hope that I will live a long and healthy life so I can share his story.

Only by listening to people’s stories can we empathize with them, give them a voice, give them hope that someone else cares.

We need to meet their courage in opening up and sharing their vulnerabilty with compassion and encourage them to continue to share again.

If you listen and learn, you just might find yourself in the position of offering hope to others.

There is no beginning and there is no end in the circle of accepting and sharing stories.

No one owns the stories.

No one person’s experiences in life are more or less valid than another’s.

Brain Based Biz: Listening Beams from the other Side of Questions

Byron’s stories are unique to Byron, as mine are unique to me.

But by listening to stories we all become a little wiser, a little bit more compassionate and understanding.

We enrich our lives through what others have to tell us about theirs.

Like Heather, other than a lifetime’s experience, I have no credentials for advising anyone on how to live their life or what paths to follow when confronted with more than one choice.

Like Heather, I do not pretend to follow any faith or religion.

Like Heather, all I can offer are lessons learned from my own personal story and in the serendiptiously good fortune to meet others prepared to tell their stories.

The Spectator on Twitter: "'Pleased to meet you – always nice to put a face  to a name.'… "

It is said in Africa, when an old man dies, a library is lost.

When an old man dies, a library burns - African proverb. | African proverb,  Proverbs, Inspirational quotes collection

Byron is older than me, though our age difference is not what matters.

Listening to the wisdom of our elders is done not because they are always right, but because they have more experiences of being wrong.

What is important is to acknowledge that everyone is entitled to their own opinion.

You do not get to judge.

You weren’t there.

You cannot know.

You cannot imagine even if you think you can.

You cannot be sure that the choices you might have made under similar circumstances would have been different.

CourtGavel.JPG

In our modern, youth-obsessed culture, when you reach a certain age, you become invisible, unless you are a celebrity.

But everyone we meet, each of them has a story, each of them has something wise to say, if only we took the time to listen.

Everyone has the power to enrich our lives beyond measure.

Andrew-gold-thank-you-for-being-a-friend-elektra.jpg

Byron does not want to warn me about the mistakes he may have made in his life, so that I don’t make the same mistakes he did.

Quite the opposite.

You need to make your own mistakes.

This is how you learn.

And what he wants to share with me, and, through my words and his memories, to share with the world, is the story he likes to call “A Moose in Paris“.

Moose Paris (@mooseparis) | Twitter

The path that led Byron to Moose, the path that brought both of them to Paris, is, like any story based on real life, prefaced by events that came before the story began.

Byron saved Moose’s life, sparing him from a miserable existence.

Moose saved Byron’s life by giving his life purpose and by lending life perspective.

Moose needed Byron and Byron needed to be needed.

Their mutual need for one another and the uniqueness of Byron being American in Paris with a dog, lends Paris a perspective that the average tourist might never know.

Ssmlt.JPG

Byron is a flâneur (and by extension so are the dogs he has shared his life with).

Flâneur is a French noun referring to a person, literally meaning ‘stroller‘, ‘lounger‘, ‘saunterer‘, or ‘loafer‘, but with some nuanced additional meanings. 

Flânerie is the act of strolling, with all of its accompanying associations.

A near-synonym of the noun is boulevardier.

Traditionally depicted as male, a flâneur is an ambivalent figure of urban affluence and modernity, representing the ability to wander detached from society with no other purpose than to be an acute observer of industrialized, contemporary life.

The flâneur was, first of all, a literary type from 19th century France, essential to any picture of the streets of Paris.

The word carried a cachet, a set of rich associations: the man of leisure, an idler, an urban explorer, a connoisseur of the street.

It was Walter Benjamin, drawing on the poetry of Charles Baudelaire, who made this figure the object of scholarly interest in the 20th century, as an emblematic archetype of urban, modern (even modernist) experience.

Following Benjamin, the flâneur has become an important symbol for scholars, artists, and writers.

Walter Benjamin vers 1928.jpg

Above: Walter Benjamin (1892 – 1940)

From Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust: A History of Walking:

Wanderlust: A History of Walking by Rebecca Solnit

What exactly a flâneur is has never been satisfactorily defined, but among all the versions of the flâneur as everything from a primeval slacker to a silent poet, one thing remains constant:

The image of an observant and solitary man strolling about Paris.

It says something about the fascination public life exerted over Parisians that they developed a term to describe one of its types.

And there is something about French culture that it theorized even strolling.

Benjamin himself never clearly defined the flâneur.

He only associated him with certain things: with leisure, with crowds, with alienation or detachment, with observation, with walking.

Flâneurs - Street Rambles TRAILER - YouTube

A man walking his dog is a man at leisure.

A handsome dog draws people to it and he who leads the dog.

An American lacking even basic French in Paris is a man alone, a man apart.

He learns only through what he sees and little escapes a man who travels at the peaceful pace of he who awaits the duties of his dog.

Meet The Man Walking Around The World With Only His Dog For Company

The flâneur arose, Benjamin argues, at a period early in the 19th century when the city had become so large and complex that it was for the first time strange to its inhabitants.

Flâneurs were a recurrent topic of the feuilletons – the serialized novels in the newly popularized newspapers – and the physiologies – those popular publications that purported to make strangers familiar but instead underscored their strangeness by classifying them as species one could identify on sight, like birds or flowers, Canadians or Japanese tourists.

Who are the world's best tourists? | CNN Travel

Spotting an American in Paris is far easier than wondering where in the world is Carmen Santiago or searching for the almost invisible Waldo.

An American in Paris (1951 film poster).jpg

In the 19th century, the idea of a city so intrigued and overwhelmed its inhabitants that they eagerly devoured guidebooks to their own cities as modern tourists peruse those of other cities.

Travelling in time to 19th Century Paris - World Wide Travellers

(I confess this notion remains strong with me as I possess guidebooks to both Konstanz and St. Gallen, the cities in closest proximity to Landschlacht.)

Above: Landschlacht

The crowd itself seemed to be something new in human experience – a mass of strangers who would remain strange.

The flâneur rerperesented a new type, one who was, so to speak, at home in this alienation.:

The crowd is his domain, just as the air is the bird’s and water that of the fish,” wrote Baudelaire in a famous passage often used to define flâneurs.

Charles Baudelaire by Étienne Carjat, 1863

Above: Charles Baudelaire (1821 – 1867)

His passion and his profession is to merge with the crowd.

For the perfect idler, for the passionate observer it becomes an immense source of enjoyment to establish his dwelling in the throng, in the ebb and flow, the bustle, the fleeting and infinite.

To be away from home and yet to feel at home anywhere….”

The flâneur, Benjamin wrote in his most famous passage in the subject “goes botanizing on the asphalt.”

But even in those days it was not possible to stroll about everywhere in the city.

Before Haussmann remodeled the city, wide pavements were rare and the narrow ones afforded little protection from vehicles.

Épinglé sur Le second Empire

Above: Paris before and after Haussman

Strolling could hardly have assumed the importance it did without the arcades (shopping malls).”

Arcades where the flâneur would not be exposed to the sight of carriages that did not recognize pedestrians as rivals were enjoying undiminished popularity.

There was the pedestrian who wedged himself into the crowd, but there was also the flâneur who demanded elbow room and was unwilling to forego the life of a gentleman of leisure.

One demonstration of this leisureliness, Benjamin goes on to say, was the fashion around 1840, for taking turtles for walks in the arcades.

The flâneurs likes to have the turtles set the pace for them.

If they had their way, progress would have been obliged to accommodate itself to this pace.

here2here - Blog - Mindfulness and The Flâneur

The flâneur, visually consuming goods while resisting the speed of industrialization and the pressure to produce, is an ambiguous figure, both resistant to and seduced by commerical culture.

The solitary walker in New York or London experiences cities as atmosphere, architecture and stray encounters.

Walking New York City: Visiting the Most Interesting Neighbourhoods

London Walks

The promenader in Italy or El Salvador encounters friends or flirts.

Walking in Italy - A Healthy Way to Discover | Train-Travel-Italy.com

San Salvador - a resilient capital, rich in history, scars and hope -  Sustainable travel

The flâneur in Paris hovers on the fringes, neither solitary or social, experiencing Paris as an intoxicating abundance of crowds and goods.

The solitary walker in other cities has often been a marginal figure, shut out of the private life that takes place between intimates and inside buildings, but in 19th century Paris, real life was in public, on the street and among society.

Flâneurs' ('Street Rambles') | LIDF | Documentary Film Festival

From Ernest Hemingway’s A Movable Feast:

MoveableFeast.jpg

Then there was the bad weather.

It would come in one day when the fall was over.

We would have to shut the windows in the night against the rain.

The cold wind would strip the leaves from the trees in the Place de la Contrescarpe.

La rue Mouffetard et la place de la Contrescarpe

The leaves lay sodden in the rain.

The wind drove the rain against the green autobus at the terminal.

The Café des Amateurs was crowded and the windows misted over from the heat and the smoke inside.

A Moveable Feast! Self-Guided Hemingway Tour, Paris – World In Paris

All the sadness of the city came suddenly with the first cold rains of winter.

There were no more tops to the high white houses as you walked but only the wet blackness of the street and the closed doors of the small shops, the herb sellers, the stationery and the newspaper shops…..

What makes Paris more beautiful under the rain? | by May Spangler | Medium

So I went to the far side of the street to look up at the roof in the rain and see if any chineys were going and how the smoke blew.

There was no smoke.

I thought about how the chimney would be cold and might not draw and of the room possibly filling with smoke.

I thought of the fuel wasted and the money gone with it.

I walked on in the rain…..

All About Ernest Hemingway's Life in Paris - Discover Walks Blog

Above: Ernest Hemingway (1899 – 1961)

It was a pleasant café, warm and clean and friendly.

I hung up my old waterproof on the coat rack to dry and put my worn and weathered felt hat on the rack above the bench and ordered a café au lait.

The waiter brought it.

I took out a pencil and started to write.

I was writing about up in Michigan and since it was a wild, cold, blowing day it was that sort of day in the story.

I had already seen the end of fall come through boyhood, youth and young manhood.

Visit Petoskey, Michigan - Ernest Hemingway's Northern Michigan

In one place you could write about it better than in another.

This was called transplanting yourself and it could be as necessary with people as with other sorts of growing things.

But in the story the boys were drinking and this made me thirsty.

I ordered a rum St. James.

This tasted wonderful on the cold day and I kept on writing, feeling very well and feeling the good Martinique rum warm me all through my body and my spirit.

Have a Hemingway Day with this Cocktail from Papa's Pilar ⋆ Food, Wellness,  Lifestyle, & Cannabis

A girl came in the café and sat by herself at a table near the window.

She was very pretty with a face fresh as a newly minted coin, if they minted coins in smooth flesh with rain-freshened skin.

Her hair was black as a crow’s wing and cut sharply and diagonally across her cheek.

Pin by Hana Zahradníčková on hadry - podzim, zima | Fashion, Parisian  style, Sartorialist

I looked at her and she disturbed me amd made me very excited.

I wished I could put her in the story or anywhere.

But she had placed herself so she could watch the street and the entry.

I knew she was waiting for someone.

So I went on writing.

Hemingway on writing in the first person. | by Cole Schafer | Medium

The story was writing itself and I was having a hard time keeping up with it.

I ordered another rum St. James.

I watched the girl whenever I looked up or when I sharpened the pencil with a pencil sharpener with the shavings curling into the saucer under my drink.

Paris Cafe Stock Photos And Images - 123RF

I have seen you, beauty.

You belong to me now, whoever you are waiting for.

You belong to me and all Paris belongs to me and I belong to this notebook and this pencil.

Paris the highlights — Brunette Abroad

Then I went back to writing.

I entered far into the story and was lost in it.

I was writing it now and it was not writing itself.

I did not look up nor know anything about the time nor think where I was nor order any more rum St. James.

I was tired of rum St. James without thinking about it.

Then the story was finished and I was very tired.

I read the last paragraph and then I looked up and looked for the girl and she had gone.

I hope she has gone with a good man, I thought.

But I felt sad,

Saint James Rhum Agricole Blanc Daiquiri - YouTube

I closed up the story in the notebook and put it in my inside pocket….

After writing a story I was always empty and both sad and happy, as though I had made love.

I was sure this was a very good story although I would not know how good until I read it over…..

Maybe away from Paris I could write about Paris as in Paris I could write about Michigan.

Ernest Hemingway - Wikipedia

Perhaps Byron can remember Paris because he is no longer there.

Perhaps I can write about Paris because I am not there.

As I think about the story of Byron and Moose I find myself thinking of Paul Auster’s novella Timbuktu.

It is about the life of a dog, Mr Bones, who is struggling to come to terms with the fact that his homeless master is dying.

The story, set in the early 1990s, is told through the eyes of Mr Bones, who, although not anthropomorphised, has an internal monologue in English.

The story centres on his last journey with his ailing master, Willy G Christmas, to Baltimore, but the details of both of their early lives are told in flashback.

The title of the book comes from the concept of the afterlife as proposed by Christmas, a self-titled poet, who believed it was a beautiful place called Timbuktu.

A major running theme in the book is Mr Bones’ worry that dogs will not go to Timbuktu, and he won’t see Willy again after death.

The novella also draws on themes of existentialism, finding purpose in one’s life, and a meditation on late 20th century America.

TimbuktuNovel.jpg

Perhaps Paul is onto something.

A dog’s Paris might be very different from a man’s Paris.

Perhaps the perception of Moose is a reflection of the mind of Byron.

Perhaps walking a dog through the streets of Paris is the superior way of seeing.

On his own two feet (and on the paws of Moose) is the best way to catch the intimate moods of Paris.

The need to walk a dog at all hours of daylight and darkness allows a dog owner to really know what a place is like, to see its most important landmarks several times, at different hours of the day.

Some sights, like the Taj Mahal or the Pyramids, are always surrounded by rapt tourists at special times – sunrise, sunset, by the light of the full moon.

But even the modest plaza in a nondescript Mexican pueblo looks different, feels different at dawn, at noon, at dusk.

Old Abandoned Mexican Pueblo Village Stock Photo, Picture And Royalty Free  Image. Image 62059906.

There is much unspoken and yet so very crucial in Parisian parks.

Trees planted by well-known people, noteworthy politicians or military men.

Prime ministers and presidents plant trees in parks all over the planet.

And park fountains and statues speak of the honourable dead.

Park benches and meadows grant green space to its citizens.

Perhaps Moose could sense the essence of Paris and Byron was wise to read the city through Moose’s interpretation.

Most Beautiful Parks and Gardens in Paris - Top 10 Parks in Paris

Moose would see and smell (and probably baptize) trees and shrubs and flowers.

He would notice whether a garden was well-kept or unkempt.

The winds would carry the scent of flowerpots on windowsills.

He would see the stray animals half feral and the drunkards of the quarter crowded together and yet separate from the rest of civilisation by the stench of their filth and the sour smell of expelled sickness, Moose would shy from such whose habits of self-abuse seem a shade apart from the abuse of others.

Through Moose, Byron would notice Paris with all his senses.

The 10 Coolest Streets in Paris

To hear the clear chorus of cathedral bells, the hoarse cough of the ailing beggars, the echoing footsteps of the solitary walkers, the cascading of water from fountain spouts, the shrill sounds of a couple fighting the disappointment of real life away from the rosy hues of romantic passion.

Cobblestone alleys and broad boulevards, the smell of cabbage from tenement halls.

Scents are, as any wise dog knows, part of a place, the olfactory orchestra of the theatre of life.

Top 7 streets to see in Paris

Byron, unlike Moose, is a gourmet.

What tickled his tastebuds?

What soothed his hunger and mastered his thirst?

The Best Bistros in Paris (Past & Present) | DoTravel

Paris has it all, including fear.

Parisians are typically crazy drivers.

TaxiPoster.jpg

Paris is style where etiquette is everything.

The best waiter in Paris" makes repeated visits to Cafe de Flore lots of  fun! - Picture of Cafe de Flore, Paris - Tripadvisor

Did Byron see da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, eat delectable patisseries, drink mojitos, lie in the sun at Paris Plage, watch the Eiffel Tower illuminated, shop in the Faubourg St-Honoré?

I will find out, because he who likes to walk reflects that which walking represents: openness, engagement, frugality.

The ten Paris streets you just have to walk down - The Local

From Rebecca Solnit’s Wanderlust:

Insidious forces are marshalled against the time, space and will to walk and against the version of humanity that act embodies.

One force is the filling-up of “the time in-between“, the time of walking to or from a place, of meandering, of running errands.

That time has been deplored as a waste, reduced, and its remainder filled with earphones playing music and mobile phones relaying conversations.

The very ability to appreciate this uncluttered time, the uses of the useless, often seems to be evaporating, as does appreciation of being outside – including outside the familiar.

Mobile phone conversations seem to serve as a buffer against solitude, silence and encounters with the unknown.

People forget that their bodies could be adequate to the challenges that face them and a pleasure to use.

Too many perceive and imagine their bodies as essentially passive, a treasure or a burden, but not a tool for work and travel.

We have come to believe that travelling even short distances in cities or even within warehouses is a challenge that only machines can solve.

The adequacy of our feet alone to go the distance has been erased.

The fight against this collapse of imgination and engagement is as important as the battle for freedom, because only by recuperating a sense of inherant power can we begin to resist both oppression and the erosion of self.

We need to rethink time, space and our bodies.

L.A. cabbies rally against ride-sharing apps Uber, Lyft and Sidecar – The  Mercury News

In Paris, a man and his dog can discover how to integrate their own legs (two good, four better) into an effective, ethical and deeply pleasureable way of navigating the terrain of their daily lives.

While walking, the body and the mind work together, so that thinking becomes almost a physical, rhythmic act.

Spirituality and sexuality both enter in.

Great walkers often move through both urban and rural places in the same way.

Past and present are brought together when you walk as the ancients did or relive some event in history or your own life by retracing its route.

Each walk passes through space like a thread through fabric, sewing it together into a continuous experience – so unlike the way air travel, the car, the bus, the train, chops up time and space.

I write on a computer, but a desk is no place to think.

Pin by Alex L. Weston on Ravens & Writing Desks | Writers desk, Vintage desk,  Vintage office

Henry David Thoreau wrote:

“An absolutely new prospect is a great happiness and I can still get this any afternoon.

Two or three hours’ walking will carry me to as strange a country as I expect ever to see.

A single farmhouse which I had not seen before is sometimes as good as the dominions of the King of Dahomey.

There is in fact a sort of harmony discoverable between the capabilities of the landscape within a circle of ten miles’ radius, or the limits of an afternoon walk, and the threescore years and ten (seventy) of human life.

It will never become quite familiar to you.”

Benjamin D. Maxham - Henry David Thoreau - Restored - greyscale - straightened.jpg

Above: Henry David Thoreau (1817 – 1862)

Thinking is generally thought of as doing nothing in a production-oriented culture and doing nothing is hard to do.

It is best done by disguising it as doing something and the something closest to nothing is walking.

Walking itself is the intentional act closest to the unwilled rhythms of the body, to breathing and the beating of the heart.

Walking strikes a balance between working and idling, being and doing.

Walking, ideally, is a state in which the mind, the body and the world are aligned, as though they were three characters finally in conversation together, three notes suddenly making a chord.

Walking allows us to be in our bodies and in the world without being made busy by them.

Walking leaves us free to think without being wholly lost in our thoughts.

Moving on foot makes it easier to move in time as the mind wanders from plans to recollections to observations.

The rhythm of walking generates a rhythm of thinking, as the passage through a landscape echoes or stimulated the passage through a series of thoughts, for the mind is also a landscape and walking is one way to traverse it.

A new thought is often seems like a feature of the landscape that was there all along, as though thinking were travelling rather than making.

Walking is a visual activity.

Every walk is a tour leisurely enough both to see and to think over the sights, to assimilate the new into the known.

Walking is meandering and Paris is a paradise for meandering.

Once upon a time, Rebecca found in the Los Angeles Times an ad for a CD-ROM encyclopedia and the text that occupied an entire page read:

“You used to walk across town in the pouring rain to use our encyclopedias.

We are pretty confident that we can get your kid to click and drag.”

Eyewitness Children's Encyclopedia CD-ROM (win): DK Publishing:  9780789422330: Amazon.com: Books

But it was the kid’s walk in the rain that constituted the real education, at least of the senses and the imagination.

Perhaps the child with the CD-ROM encyclopedia will stray from the task at hand, but wandering in a book or a computer takes place within more constricted and less sensual parameters.

It is the unpredictable incidents between official events that add up to a life, the incalculable that gives it value.

Boy Walking In Rain Alone On Road - 960x750 Wallpaper - teahub.io

The multiplication of technologies in the name of efficiency is actually eradicating free time by making it possible to maximize the time and place for production and minimize the unstructured travel time in between.

New timesaving technologies make most workers more productive, not more free, in a world that seems to be acclerating around them.

The rheotric of efficiency around these technologies suggests that what cannot be quantified cannot be valued.

That the vast array of pleasures which fall into the category of doing nothing in particular, of wool-gathering, cloud-gazing, wandering, window-shopping, are nothing but voids to be filled by something more definite, more productive, or faster paced.

Technology has its uses, but I fear its false urgency, their call to speed, their insistence that travel is less important than arrival, that the destination is more important than the journey.

Walking is serendipity, an adventure of the random, the unscreened, that allows you to find what you don’t know you are looking for and you don’t know a place until it surprises you.

You don’t know yourself until you are surprised.

Byron and Moose gave themselves to Paris.

When you give yourself to a place, it gives you yourself back.

The more you come to know a place, the more you come to know yourself and your place in the world.

The more one seeds a place with one’s invisible crop of memories and associations, the more a place offers up new thoughts, new possibilities.

Exploring the world is one of the best ways of exploring the mind.

Walking travels both terrains.

Byron came with his partner and with Moose to Paris, for as a man of ambition he had begun to find that ambition had replaced the man.

He had come to realize that he needed to take time off, that life was too short to be wasting it all on work, that life was meant to be more than simply paying bills.

He had become so busy making a living that he had forgotten how to live.

There is more to Paris than meets the casual eye.

There is more to Byron than meets the casual eye.

A dog’s eyesight is generally poor, so it compensates by discovering the world through its other senses.

Things To Do In Paris With A Dog - France Travel Blog

Paris is more than a city of light, of fine dining, of seductive couture and intellectual hauteur.

Paris is its scents, its movements, its feelings beneath the surface.

Paris, like any place, is more than the bright lights and obvious attractions that draw in the tourists.

Paris is also a place of shadow, a city of the poor, the outcast, the criminal, the eccentric, the willfull nonconformist.

Soaring Paris property prices widen gap between rich and poor - The Local

Paris is more than its gourmands (who eat without truly tasting), its fashion models (stick bodies with pouty lips, walking clothes hangers with similar lack of soul), its intellectuals (so smart they’re stupid).

Michelin 3-Star Restaurants 2020 | Paris Insiders Guide

Models Dazzle at Paris Fashion Week Day 1 (Photos) | Paris fashion week,  Fashion, Fashion week

French intellectuals lament loss of influence as populism surges |  Financial Times

Paris, for those who take the time to truly see her as she is, is also her flâneurs, her rabble-rousers, her tramps.

A city is more than its restaurants, business skyscrapers, academies and monuments.

A city is its knotted alleyways, its brothels and its bars, its corner shops and hobo shelters.

A city is the blood, sweat, tears and toil of the worker, the boudoir of the whore, the drunken dregs and addled addicts, the criminal and the entertainer, the reporter cynic, the dreamer poet, the singer both deep and simultaneously shallow, the artiste of vision and the novelist both naive and wise.

The Other Paris by Luc Sante: our Book Tip of the Month, December | And  Other Stories

This is the other Paris.

This is the Paris that a man quietly walking his dog sees.

This is the Paris that is more than old money and the nouveaux rich.

Paris is more than monolithic highrises with all the charm of industrial air conditioners.

Montmartre, the most bohemian district of Paris - Unique Tours Factory

I rally against, I protest, the gentrification of cities, transformed into places that few can afford.

I hate cities where there are few places the obviously poor can live, for this renders these cities inhuman, soulless empty windswept wilderness landscapes where love cannot lodge.

There is more to life than well-lit boulevards, dust-free environs with up-to-date fixtures, for a perfect sterile world relieves humanity of the ability to improvise, to discover its own spaces.

Paris is more than its commuters, more than its self-righteous rich and its passionless politics.

Paris is its eccentrics and its insane, its clerics and savants, its brawlers and its widows, its elderly and its infants, its hustlers and its sluggards.

Living the Bohemian Student Dream in 1960s Paris

High society is neither just nor kindly.

In my own travels, I have found that it is the poor with little to give who will nonetheless give the little they have.

The rich are rich, because they do not share, and yet they consider their lack of humanity an indication that they are above the rest of humanity.

No, give me not the money to afford a Parisian apartment overlooking the Seine.

Give me instead a sleeping bag and a tarpaulin and let me sleep beside the Seine.

Brassaï (Gyula Halász). Man Sleeping Along the Seine. (Homme endormi au  bord de la Seine). 1932 | MoMA

Paris is also the noise of the bars, the grit of the sidewalks, the decaying trees shedding battered leaves in the dark, the traffic a swirling hurricane of noise and sound, chaos and danger, workers speaking terrible oaths into the ears of passing police and pious priests, the roofs dripping, the walls sweating, the pavement slippery, the asphalt cracked, streams filling gutters and the average man scrambles with unwarranted hope in the knowledge that the only direction that dreams take is up, up beyond the neon, up beyond the cares of life.

All this a dog senses and in its every subtle movement telegraphs to the human it loves, the human that sees to its care, that explores and discovers anew a world never fully explored even within familiar footpaths.

This is Paris à la Moose.

This is the Paris of a man without hope, who finds from within and without, through the pedestrian act of merely walking his dog, a Paris without limits.

The story of Byron’s Paris must be shared.

Paris is Moose and Moose is Paris.

And when one sees photographs of Byron and Moose, one can almost hear Humphrey Bogart tell a tearful Ingrid Bergman:

We’ll always have Paris.”

We'll Always Have Paris." A Look Back at 'Casablanca' on its 75th  Anniversary! - mxdwn Movies

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast / Heather Morris, Stories of Hope: Finding Inspiration in Everyday Lives / Luc Sante, The Other Paris: An Illustrated Journey Through A City’s Poor and Bohemian Past / Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking / Louise Purwin Zobel, The Travel Writer’s Handbook: How to Write and Sell Your Own Travel Experiences / Henry David Thoreau, Walden

Canada Slim and the Prelude to Sadness

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Wedneday 2 December 2020

There is one question which really matters:

Why do bad things happen to good people?

When Bad Things Happen to Good People: Kushner, Harold S.: 9780380603923:  Amazon.com: Books

The misfortunes of good people are not only a problem to the people who suffer and to their families.

They are a problem to everyone who wants to believe in a just and fair and livable world.

They inevitably raise questions about the goodness, the kindness, the existence of God.

Who is this God person anyway?" I felt Oolon Colluphid's books needed  covers. (From "Th… | Hitchhikers guide to the galaxy, Guide to the galaxy,  Hitchhikers guide

I am not a religious man.

I will not steady the Ark nor thrust my hands in nail scars nor march around a meteorite in the midst of a desert nor bathe myself in a river nor the million or more ways we seek to make sense of Life and the suffering that seems to be part and parcel of existence.

I cannot imagine how difficult it is for a person of faith to tell others in pain and sorrow that life is fair, that God gives people what they deserve and need.

Like every reader of this blog, I pick up the daily paper and fresh challenges to the idea of the world’s goodness assault my eyes: senseless murders, fatal practical jokes, young people killed in automobile accidents on the way to their wedding or coming home from a hockey match in a distant town.

War, violence, destruction, disease….

Can I, in good faith, continue to believe that the world is good and that a kind and loving God is responsible for what happens in it?

What's Love Got to Do With It Tina Turner US vinyl 7-inch.jpg

I find myself asking why ordinary people, nice friendly folks, neither extraordinarily good nor extraordinarily bad, must face pain and tragedy.

One of the ways in which people have tried to make sense of the world’s suffering in every generation has been by assuming that we deserve what we get, that somehow our misfortunes come as punishment for our wrongdoing.

Perhaps we do this because it helps us to make sense out of a senseless world, that the world is actually orderly and understandable.

I don’t subscribe to this point of view.

The idea that our misdeeds cause our misfortune is a neat and attractive solution to the problem of evil at several levels, but it has a number of serious limitations.

It teaches people to blame themselves.

It creates guilt even where there is no basis for guilt.

It makes people hate themselves.

And most disturbing of all, it does not fit the facts at all.

The Poppy Family - Where Evil Grows (Sonic The Hedgehog Movie) (Music  Video) - YouTube

Often, victims of misfortune try to console themselves with the idea that God has His reasons for making misfortune happen to them, reasons that they mere mortals are in no position to judge.

Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy Oolon Colluphid Art / | Etsy

In 1924, the novelist Thornton Wilder attempted to confront this question of questions in his novel The Bridge of San Luis Rey.

One day in a small town in Peru, a rope bridge over a chasm breaks and the five people who are crossing the bridge fall to their deaths.

A young Catholic priest happens to be watching and is troubled by the event.

Was it sheer accident or was it somehow God’s will that those five people should die that way?

He investigates their life stories and comes to the conclusion that all five had recently resolved a problematic situation in their lives and were now about to enter a new phase.

Perhaps it was an appropriate time for each of them to die, thinks the priest.

BridgeOfSanLuisRey.JPG

I find that answer ultimately unsatisfying.

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Human interest stories in the news after a plane crash seem to indicate just the opposite – that many of the victims were in the middle of important work, that many left young families and unfulfilled plans.

In a novel, where the author’s imagination can control the facts, sudden tragedies can happen to people when the plot calls for it.

But experience has taught me that real life is not all that neat.

More than 40 years after writing The Bridge of San Luis Rey, an older and wiser Thornton Wilder returned to the question of why good people suffer in another novel, The Eighth Day.

The book tells the story of a good and decent man whose life is ruined by bad luck and hostility.

He and his family suffer although they are innocent.

At the end of the novel, where the reader would hope for a happy ending, with heroes rewarded and villains punished, there is none.

The Eighth Day Wilder cover.jpg

Wilder offers as his explanation of why good people have to suffer in this life is that God has a pattern into which all of our lives fit, that His pattern requires that some lives be twisted, knotted or cut short, while others extend to impressive lengths, not because one thread of His great tapestry is more deserving than another, but simply because the pattern requires it.

Looked at from underneath, from our vantage point in life, God’s pattern of reward and punishment seems arbitrary and without design, like the underside of a tapestry.

But looked at from outside this life, from God’s vantage point, every twist and knot is seen to have its place in a great design that adds to a work of art.

The Eighth Day | Thornton Wilder Society

At first glance, there is much that is moving in this suggestion and I can imagine that some people would find this explanation comforting.

Pointless suffering or suffering for some unspecified sin is hard to bear, but suffering as a contribution to a great work of art designed by God Himself may be seen, not only as a tolerable burden, but even as a privilege.

As one victim of medieval misfortune is supposed to have prayed:

Tell me not why I must suffer.

Assure me only that I suffer for Thy sake.

On closer examination, however, this approach is found wanting.

For all its compassion, it too is based in large measure on wishful thinking.

The crippling illness of a child, the death of a husband and father, the ruin of an innocent person through malicious gossip….

These are all real.

We have all seen them.

But nobody has seen Wilder’s tapestry.

All he can say to us is:

Imagine that there might be such a tapestry.

I find it very hard to imagine hypothetical solutions to real problems.

My belief in the supreme value of individual lives makes it hard for me to accept an answer that is not scandalized by an innocent person’s pain, that condones human pain because it supposedly contributes to an overall work of esthetic value.

If a human artist made children suffer so that something immensely beautiful could come to pass, we would put him in prison.

Why then should we excuse God for causing such undeserved pain, no matter how wonderful the ultimate result might be?

TFF Suffer The Children.jpg

Let us now consider another question:

Can suffering be educational?

Can it cure us of our faults and make us better people?

Sometimes religious people would like us to believe that God has good reasons for making us suffer.

Rabbi Joseph B. Soloveitchuk has suggested that:

Suffering comes to ennoble man, to purge his thoughts of pride and superficiality, to expand his horizons.

In sum, the purpose of suffering is to repair that which is faulty in a man’s personality.

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Above: Rav Joseph Soloveitchik (1903 – 1993)

The idea is that just as a parent sometimes has to punish a child whom he loves, for the child’s sake, so God has to punish us.

Similarly we are told that God treats us the way a wise and caring parent treats a naive child, keeping us from hurting ourselves, withholding something we may think we want, punishing us occasionally to make sure we understand that we have done something seriously wrong, and patiently enduring our temper tantrums at His “unfairness” in the confidence that we will one day mature and understand that it was all for our own good.

A contemporary teacher has used this image:

If a man who knew nothing about medicine were to walk into the operating room of a hospital and see doctors and nurses performing an operation, he might assume that they were a band of criminals torturing their unfortunate victim.

He would see them tying the patient down, forcing a cone over his mouth so that he could not breathe, and sticking knives and needles into him.

Only someone who understood surgery would realize that they were doing all this to help the patient, not to torment him.

So too, it is suggested that God does painful things to us as His way of helping us.

1960's edition of Operation.jpg

The problem with a line of reasoning like this one is that it isn’t really meant to help the sufferer or to explain his suffering.

It is meant primarily to defend God, to use words and ideas to transform bad into good and pain into privilege.

Such answers are thought up by people who believe very strongly that God is a loving parent who controls what happens to us, and on the basis of that belief adjust and interpret the facts to fit their assumption.

Trying To Fit A Square Peg In A Round Hole With A Hammer Stock Photo -  Download Image Now - iStock

I have a hard time believing that every painful thing that happens to us is beneficial.

Those who explain suffering as God’s way of teaching us to change are at a loss to specify just what it is about us we are supposed to change.

I have a hard time accepting the interpretation of tragedy as a test.

I have difficulty with the notion of a god who plays such sadistic games simply as a way to discover how strong and faithful we are.

Many parents of dying children are urged to read the 22nd chapter of the Book of Genesis to help them understand and accept their burden.

God orders Abraham to take his son Isaac, whom he loves, and offer him to God as a human sacrifice.

The Talmud explains Abraham’s test this way:

If you go to a marketplace, you will see the potter hitting his clay pots with a stick to show how strong and solid they are.

But the wise potter hits only the strongest pots, never the flawed ones.

So too, God sends such tests and afflictions only to people He knows are capable of handling them, so that they and others can learn the extent of their spiritual strength.

Adolf Behrman - Talmudysci.jpg

But does He never ask more of us than we can endure?

I am not so sure.

People crack under the strain of unbearable tragedy.

Marriages break up after the death of a child, because parents blame each other for not taking proper care or for carrying the defective gene, or simply because the memories they shared were unendurably painful.

Some people are made noble and sensitive through suffering.

Others grow cynical and bitter.

Some become jealous of those around them, unable to take part in the routines of normal living.

The accidental tourist.jpg

If God is testing us, if God is all-wise and all-knowing, surely He must know by now that many will fail His tests.

If He is only giving us burdens we can bear, then perhaps He is often off in his miscalculations.

Unbearable lightness of being poster.jpg

Sometimes in our reluctance to admit that there is unfairness in the world, we try to persuade ourselves that what has happened is not really bad.

We only think that it is.

But death and injury are no less real, no less wrong, because we cleverly deny that they are so.

Sometimes, because our souls yearn for justice, because we so desperately want to believe in a God that is fair and loving, that we fasten our hopes on the idea that life in this world is not the only reality.

No one knows the reality of that hope.

We only know that our bodies decay after we die.

I don’t wish to diminish the faith of those who gain comfort from their belief in a world to come where the innocent are compensated for their suffering.

But there is a dark side to this way of thinking.

A prism refracting white light into a rainbow on a black background

It can also be an excuse for not being troubled or outraged by injustice around around us, an excuse for not using our intelligence and energy to try to help others.

Not My Problem » Graceway

Why worry about others?

God will see to them Himself.

Vintage Kill Em All Let God Sort Em Out Shirt 1986 | WyCo Vintage

Though it strikes me as “hedging our bets“, being hopeful in the possibility that our lives continue in some form after death, perhaps in a form our mere earthly imaginations cannot conceive of.

I think that since we cannot know with absolutely certainty that our wishful thinking is possible, we would be well advised to take this world as seriously as we can, in case our lives are the only ones we will ever have.

To look for justice and meaning and significance in our lives, because life ends.

Talking Heads - Road to Nowhere.jpg

Could it be that God, should He even exist in more than our wishful thinking, does not cause the bad things that happen to us?

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Innocent people do suffer misfortunes in this life.

Things happen to them far worse than they deserve, but do these things necessarily have a reason behind them?

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We can maintain our own self-respect and sense of goodness without having to feel that fate has judged us and condemned us.

We can be angry at what has happened to us without searching for someone to blame our misfortunes upon.

We can recognize the legitimacy of our anger at life’s unfairness and embrace our instinctive compassion at seeing people suffer.

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If the bad things that happen to use are the results of bad luck (and the same could be said that good things are the results of good luck), then we can accept that some things happen for no reason, that there is a randomness in the universe.

That even God is a plaything in the randomness of the universe and that should He exist at all He is not responsible for the ill fortune that has befallen us nor the good fortune that has blessed us but rather He is meant to be seen as the source of comfort and guidance by which mankind has chosen to believe.

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Sometimes connections and reasons cannot be found.

Sometimes we have to accept that we cannot understand, that there may be no reason, no rationale, only randomness.

Doug And The Slugs - Who Knows How To Make Love Stay / St. Laurent Summer  (1982, Vinyl) | Discogs

It was not the best Batman movie made.

Not by a long shot, but there are scenes in that film that have never faded from my memory.

Theatrical release poster featuring Batman and various characters from the film.

Two Face holds a security guard down on the floor, gun to his head, and begins to rant:

One man is born a hero, his brother a coward.

Babies starve, politicians grow fat.

Holy men are martyred and junkies grow legion.

Why?

Why, why, why, why, why, why?

Luck!

Blind, stupid, simple, doo-dah, clueless luck!”

[After flipping his coin to decide whether to kill the guard] 

Ah, fortune smiles.

Another day of wine and roses, or in your case, beer and pizza!

ComicsAlliance Reviews 'Batman Forever' (1995), Part One

I am reminded of the lyrics of the Eagles’ Sad Café:

Out in the shiny night, the rain was softly falling
The tracks that ran down the boulevard
Had all been washed away

Out of the silver light the past came softly calling
And I remember the times we spent
Inside the Sad Café

Oh, it seemed like a holy place
Protected by amazing grace
And we would sing right out loud
The things we could not say


We thought we could change this world
With words like “love” and “freedom”
We were part of the lonely crowd
Inside the Sad Café.

Oh, expecting to fly,
We would meet on that shore in the
Sweet by and by

Some of their dreams came true,
Some just passed away
And some of them stayed behind
Inside the Sad Café.

The clouds rolled in and hit that shore
Now that Glory Train, it don’t stop here no more


Now I look at the years gone by,
And wonder at the powers that be.
I don’t know why fortune smiles on some
And lets the rest go free

Maybe the time has drawn the faces I recall
But things in this life change slowly,
If they ever change at all.


There’s no use in asking why,
It just turned out that way
So meet me at midnight, baby,
Inside the Sad Café.


Why don’t you meet me at midnight, baby,
Inside the Sad Café.

The Ballad of the Sad Cafe book jacket

The universe is a realm of randomness.

Most of us see a hurricane, an earthquake, a volcano as having no conscience.

The path of the hurricane struck good and bad folks together, not on the basis of which communities deserved to be lashed and which ones spared.

A change of wind direction or the shifting of a tectonic plate can cause a hurricane or earthquake to move toward a populated area instead of out into an uninhabited stretch of land.

Why?

A random shift in weather patterns causes too much or too little rain over a farming area and a year’s harvest is destroyed.

A drunk driver steers his car over the centre line of the highway and collides with the green Chevrolet instead of the red Ford 50 feet farther away.

Car failing to yield at new stop sign causes three-car crash and flaming  aftermath – Langley Advance Times

An engine bolt breaks on flight 205 instead of flight 209, inflicting tragedy on one random group of families rather than another.

Pilot killed in plane crash in Columbia County neighborhood

There is no message in any of this.

There is no reason for any of this.

These events are not the will of God, an active choice He made.

These events happen at random.

Stop Making Sense - Talking Heads.jpg

Randomness is another name for chaos.

Chaos isn’t wrong, it isn’t maleviolent, it isn’t fair, it isn’t rational.

It simply is.

Ask a physicist, whether from a scientific perspective the world is becoming a more orderly place, whether randomness (chaos) is increasing or decreasing with time.

And he will cite the Second Law of Thermodynamics, the Law of Entrophy:

Every system left to itself will change in such a way as to approach equilibrium.

In other words, the world changes randomly to find its own balance.

Entropy film poster.jpg

Think of a group of marbles in a jar, carefully arranged by size and colour.

The more you shake the jar, the more that neat arrangement will give way to random distribution, until it will only be a coincidence to find one marble next to another of the same colour.

This is what is happening in the world.

The longer you keep track of such things, the less of a pattern you will find.

A Glass Jar Is Full Of Various Marbles. Stock Photo, Picture And Royalty  Free Image. Image 12686977.

Rabbi Harold S. Kushner suggests that God finished His work of creating eons ago.

And left the rest to us.

Harold Kushner - Startseite | Facebook

Above: Rav Harold Kushner

Residual chaos, chance and mischance, things happening for no reason, continue to be with us, what Milton Steinberg has called “the still unresolved scaffolding of the edifice of God’s creativity.”

We simply have to learn to live with it, that reality stands independently of religion, but should God exist and should He be indeed a God of compassion then that which angers and saddens us as God’s creations also angers and saddens the Creator.

Milton Steinberg.jpg

Above: Rav Milton Steinberg (1903 – 1950)

I cannot prove that God exists nor can I disprove this, but if the existence of a loving God brings comfort and strength to people, then as someone who believes in the supreme value and dignity and rights of individuals, then I am all for defending their beliefs even if I don’t necessarily share them.

Michelangelo - Creation of Adam (cropped).jpg

Laws of nature treat everyone alike.

Laws of nature do not make exceptions for nice people.

A tsunami kills thousands of innocent victims without reason.

Nature is morally blind.

It has no values, no conscience.

It does its own thing, follows its own laws, uncaring of who or what gets in its way.

A tsunami is not an act of God.

2004 Tsunami Caught On Camera FULL VIDEO - video dailymotion

The act of God is the courage of people to rebuild their lives after the tsunami.

The act of God is the compassion of others to help them in whatever way they can.

God is not in the winds of change, but in the whisper of comfort given to help us cope with that change.

Wind of change2.jpg

I don’t fully understand in these strange days of the corona virus why one person gets sick and an other does not, but I can only assume that some natural laws which I don’t understand are at work.

But just because I don’t understand something does not necessarily mean that there is some divine reason, some purpose under heaven for the mystery beyond my comprehension.

Faith is not based on facts.

It is based on belief.

People suffer and die, not based on what they believe but based on the laws of nature and human nature.

If God exists, my belief or non-belief in Him won’t change that existence.

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What did I do to deserve this?” is an understandable outcry from a sick and/or suffering person, but it is really the wrong question.

Being sick or being healthy is not a matter of what we deserve.

The better question is:

If this has happened to me, what do I do now and who is there to help me do it?

The Bee Gees - How Can You Mend a Broken Heart?.jpg

Why do people have to get sick?

Why do they have to feel pain?

Why do people die?

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From Joseph Heller’s Catch-22:

Good God, how much reverance can you have for a Supreme Being who finds it necessary to include tooth decay in His divine system of creation?

Why in the world did He ever create pain?

Pain?“, Lieutentant Shiesskopf’s wife pounced upon the word victoriously.

Pain is a useful symptom.

Pain is a warning to us of bodily dangers.

And who created the bodily dangers?“, Yossarian demanded.

Why couldn’t He have used a doorbell to notify us or one of His celestial choirs?

Or a system of blue-and-red neon tubes right in the middle of their forehead?

People would certainly look silly walking around with red neon tubes in the middle of their foreheads.

They certainly look beautiful now writhing in agony, don’t they?

Catch22.jpg

Why do we feel pain?

Pain is an unpleasant but necessary part of being alive.

Pain is nature’s way of telling us that we are over exerting ourselves, that some part of our body is not functioning as it was meant to, or it is being asked to do more than it was intended to do.

Kingofpaincover.jpg

We feel pain when we strain our muscles beyond what they can take.

We feel pain to make us jerk our hand away from the fire before it burns us seriously.

We feel pain as a signal that something is wrong in that marvelously intricate machine, our body.

Your Body Is a Wonderland (John Mayer single - cover art).jpg

Pain is not a punishment.

Pain represents nature’s way of warning good and bad people alike that something is wrong.

Life is unpleasant because we are subject to pain, but life would be dangerous, perhaps impossible, if we could not feel pain.

Nine Inch Nails - Hurt Halo Ten CD cover.jpeg

Animals feel pain even as we do.

You don’t need a soul to feel pain, but only human beings can find meaning in their pain.

Pain is the price we pay for being alive.

Bee Gees Stayin Alive.jpg

Why do we die?

In Homer’s Odyssey, there is a passage in which Ulysses meets Calypso, a sea princess and a child of the gods.

Calypso, a divine being, is immortal.

She will never die.

She is fascinated by Ulysses, never having met a mortal before.

As we read on, we come to realize that Calypso envies Ulysses because he will not live forever.

His life becomes more full of meaning, his every decision is more significant, precisely because his time is limited, and what he chooses to do with his time represents a real choice.

In Jonathan Swift’s Gulliver’s Travels, in the land of the Luggnaggians, it happened once or twice in a generation that a child was born with a circular red spot in its forehead, signifying that it would never die.

Gulliver imagines those children to be the most fortunate people imaginable, “being born exempt from that universal calamity of human nature“, death.

Gullivers travels.jpg

But as he comes to meet them, Gulliver realizes that they are in fact the most miserable and pitiable of creatures.

They grow old and feeble.

Their friends and contemporaries die off.

At the age of 80, their property is taken from them and given to their children, who would otherwise never inherit from them.

Their bodies contract various ailments.

They accumulate grudges and grievances.

They grow weary of the struggle of life and they never look forward to being released from the pain of living.

Gullivers Travels: Chapter 23

Living with the knowledge that we will die is frightening and tragic, but knowing we will never die would be unbearable.

We might wish for a longer life or a happier life, but how could any of us endure an eternal life?

For many of us, death is the only healer for the pain which our lives have come to contain.

Explore Art and Images in Psychiatry from JAMA Network: Aging

If people lived forever and never died, one of two things would have to happen:

Either the world would become impossibly crowded.

Or, people would avoid having children to avoid that crowding.

Humanity would be deprived of that sense of a fresh start, that potential for something new under the sun, which the birth of a child represents.

Vulnerability to death is one of the conditions of life.

One of the most important things that any religion can teach us, and the reason I defend it despite my barbarism, is what it means to be human.

The difference between being human and being an animal lies in our ability to choose rather than simply act upon instinct.

We are blessed and cursed with a knowledge of good and evil and we make choices as to which of these will guide our actions.

We act based on our adherence (or lack of adherence) to morality.

Western Animation / Good Angel Bad Angel - TV Tropes

Religion asks us to rise above our animal nature and learn to control our instincts.

But choice carries with it consequences, making life more painful and problematics for human beings than for animals.

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Take, for example, sex and reproduction, which are natural and nonproblematic for all animals except Man.

In the animal kingdom, females come into heat, males are attracted to this heat, and the species is maintained.

Nothing could be simpler.

Proof That Colin Should Have Gotten All The Points On "Whose Line" | Whose  line, Whose line is it anyway?, Hilarious

Compare this to the sexual tensions existing among human beings:

  • the teenage girl who waits for a boy to call her, feeling shunned and unattractive
  • the college student who cannot concentrate on his studies and is contemplating suicide because his girlfriend has broken up with him
  • the pregnant unmarried career woman who does not believe in abortion but is not sure what other choice she has
  • the severely depressed housewife whose husband has left her for another woman
  • the victims of rape
  • the patrons of pornography
  • the furtive adulterers
  • the self-hating promiscous “sexual athletes”

Sex is so simple and straightforward for animals, and so painful for the rest of us (unless we are willing to behave like animals), because we are haunted by the world of good and evil.

But at the same time, precisely because we live in that world, a sexual relationship can mean infinitely more to us that it can to an animal or to a person who sees sex only as an instinct to be satisfied.

Sex can mean tenderness, the sharing of affection, responsible commitment-

Animals mate and reproduce, but only human beings can know love, with all the pain that love sometimes involves.

For animals, giving birth and supervising their young as they grow up is a purely instinctive process.

Being a human parent is never that easy.

Giving birth, one of the most painful events a human body can experience, is the easiest part.

Raising and teaching children, passing our values on to them, sharing their big and little hurts, being diasappointed in them, knowing when to be tough and when to be forgiving….

These are the painful parts of being a parent.

And unlike animals, we cannot do it on instinct alone.

We have to make hard choices.

Similarily, people have to work hard for their food, either growing it themselves or performing some servie to earn money to buy it.

The world provides food for animals.

Animals depend on instinct to guide them in their search for food.

Only humans in their work have to worry about choosing a career, keeping a job, getting along with the boss.

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Finally, all living creatures are fated to die, but only human beings know it.

Animals will instinctively protect themselves against threats to their life and well-being, but only human beings live in the valley of the shadow of death, with the knowledge that they are mortal, even when no one is attacking them.

The knowledge that we are going to die someday changes our lives in many ways.

It moves us to try to cheat death by doing something that will outlive us – having children, writing books, having an impact on our friends and neighbours so that they will remember us fondly.

Knowing that our time is limited gives value to the things we do.

Being human means to be self-conscious, knowing that we won’t live forever, knowing that we will have to spend our lives making choices.

This is what it means to be human.

It means being free to make choices instead of doing whatever our instincts would tell us to do.

It means knowing that some choices are good,and others are bad.

It is our job to know the difference.

If Man is truly free to choose, if he can show himself as being virtuous by freely choosing the good when the bad is equally possible, then he is also free to choose the bad side.

If he were only free to do good, he would not really be choosing.

If we are bound to do good, then we are not free to choose good.

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I am reminded of love.

We want the object of our affection to love us, because we feel that we are deserving of love.

We want them to choose us freely, conveniently forgetting that if they are free to choose us then they are free to not choose us.

Where love becomes tragic is when we force the focus of our affection to be bound to us.

If I am forced to accept your affection, then can it be said that I actually love you?

Lovesomebody.jpg

Imagine a parent saying to a child:

How would you like to spend this afternoon, doing homework or playing with a friend?

You choose.

The child says:

I would like to play with my friend.

The parent responds:

I am sorry, but that is the wrong choice.

I can’t let you do that.

I won’t let you out of the house until your homework gets done.

Choose again.

This time the child says:

All right; I’ll do my homework.

The parent smiles and says:

I’m glad you made the right choice.

Genesis-Mama (Single Cover).jpg

We may have ended up with the preferred result, but it would be wrong to say that it was the child who showed maturity and responsibility by making that choice.

Through the Eyes of a Child.jpg

In order to be free, in order to be human, we need to have the choice to do right or to do wrong.

If we are not free to to choose evil, then we are not free to choose good.

This freedom means that if we choose to be selfish or dishonest, we can be selfish and dishonest, and God, should He exist, cannot / will not stop us.

Human - Rag'n'Bone Man Single.png

Why then do bad things happen to good people?

One reason is that our being human leaves us free to hurt one another and we cannot stop being human if our choice to harm is removed from us.

Human beings cheat each other, rob each other, hurt each other.

And all we can do is look at the world in pity and compassion at how little we have learned over millennia about how human beings should behave.

TC Mad Mad World.jpg

Let us speak of the Holocaust, the death of millions of innocent people at the hands of a tyrant.

People ask:

Where was God in Auschwitz?

How could He have permitted the Nazis to kill so many innocent men, women and children?

Birkenau múzeum - panoramio (cropped).jpg

God did not cause the Holocaust.

It was caused by human beings choosing to be cruel to other human beings.

God cannot be called a loving God if He demands a love that is involuntary.

Part of the anger and sorrow of life is that there will be those who will choose cruelty over compassion.

I believe that most of us are neither saints nor monsters, but instead we are a mixture of both, because of the choices we make.

Those we call saints are those who have chosen to do good on a grand scale.

Those we call monsters are those who have chosen to do evil on a grand scale.

God, should He exist, does not choose who will be saint or who will be monster, it is we who make these choices, and it is these choices that are manifested as either blessing or blight upon humanity’s history.

Those we call saints had the capacity to do good on a grand scale.

Those we call monsters had the capacity to do evil on a grand scale.

Most of us lack the capacity to be helpful to millions.

Most of us lack the capacity to do harm to millions.

Our choices and the capacity we possess have consequences.

These consequences mean that there are those who will bring blessings to humanity and there are those who will seek to destroy humanity.

Saints and villains.jpg

Loving someone means we cannot prevent the evil that they could do, though we want them to do good, to do what is right.

Do the Right Thing poster.png

Most of us suffer when we witness the evil that man is capable of, but if there is a God, He is manifest in those of conscience.

Those who felt sorrow and compassion for the victims of the Holocaust knew that mankind’s choices have consequences and yet this did not stop them from believing that mankind’s positive potential would eventually overcome those who dealt in death and destruction.

Bundesarchiv Bild 183-N0827-318, KZ Auschwitz, Ankunft ungarischer Juden.jpg

The power of wrong cannot be defeated until countered with an equal capacity of right.

That balance is not immediately achievable and thus bad things done by bad people to good people are not always preventable.

One of the worst things that happens to a person who has been hurt by life is that they tend to compound the damage by hurting themselves a second time.

Not only are they a victim of rejection, bereavement, injury or bad luck, they often feel the need to see themselves as a bad person who had this coming to them, and because of this they drive away people who try to get close to them and offer assistance.

Too often, in our pain and confusion, we instinctively do the wrong thing.

We don’t feel we deserve to be helped, so we let guilt, anger, jealousy and self-imposed loneliness make a bad situation even worse.

I Am a Rock - Paul Simon.jpg

There is an old Iranian folk proverb that says:

If you see a blind man, kick him.

Why should you be kinder than God?

In other words, if you see someone who is suffering, you must believe that they deserve their fate and that God permits them to suffer.

Skeptical Eye: If You See A Blind Man...

Too often we inadvertantly find ourselves suggesting to people who have been hurt that they, in some way, deserved it.

And when we do that, we feed into their latent guilt, their suspicion that maybe this happened to them because they somehow had it coming.

The last thing we should do is blame the victim for their tragedy.

Maybe what happened to them was the result of things they did but shouldn’t have done, or the result of things they should have done but didn’t do, or simply bad things happen to everyone.

But our judgment, our advice, as well-intentioned as it may be, must take second place to what is needed more:

Compassion.

This is a human being who could have easily been ourselves.

Phil Collins AnotherDayInParadise.jpg

People in pain need love and compassion far more than they need advice, even good and correct advice.

People in pain need compassion, the sense that they are not alone with their pain, that their humanity is shared by other human beings.

People in pain need physical comforting, others sharing their strength, a hug more than a scolding or words of advice.

People in pain need friends who permit them to feel anger at their misfortune, to cry, to scream.

But instead we demand that those in pain put up pretenses of patience and piety because we are embarrassed by their pain which like them we simply cannot comprehend.

We mean to help, but we are more concerned about how their pain makes us feel rather than about how their pain makes them feel.

So, often, we only make things worse.

Aimee Mann - Save Me (2000, CD) | Discogs

This is the source of my Napanee sadness.

Dundas street

Above: Dundas Street, Napanee

Ottawa to Napanee, Ontario, Canada, Thursday 9 January 2020

This morning, I woke up behind bars for the last time.

It was my last morning (of two) at the Hostelling International Ottawa Jail, at 75 Nicholas Street, the former Carleton County Gaol.

Nicholas Street Gaol, Ottawa, Canada - 20050218.jpg

My mood was not the best.

As I eat breakfast and try to listen to news about yesterday’s crash of Flight 752….

UR-PSR (B738) at Ben Gurion Airport.jpg

(Ukraine International Airlines Flight 752 was mistakenly shot down by Iranian armed forces shortly after its takeoff from Tehran’s Imam Khomeini Airport, killing all 176 people on board, including 57 Canadians.)

I find myself annoyed by a young bearded guest, Nick Johns, who is determined to strike up a conversation with me (before my first coffee!).

He tells me that the jail is haunted by a lady prisoner who was raped by the guards and that she roams the halls of the hostel seeking to inflict revenge upon anyone who crosses her path, including clawing with her fingernails a hostel cleaner.

Having both lived and worked at this hostel before in the days before Kingston-based Haunted Walks set its sights on Ottawa and the old Gaol, I responded to his tale, that he hoped would titillate my interest, with a grunt of pure disdain.

The Haunted Walk of Ottawa - 40 Photos & 21 Reviews - Tours - 46 1/2 Sparks  Street, Ottawa, ON - Phone Number - Yelp

This set Johns off.

Do I believe in ghosts?

Do I believe in God?

Did I think of myself as being too smart to believe in ghosts or God?

All this BEFORE MY FIRST COFFEE!!!

not before my coffee | Snoopy quotes, Snoopy funny, Snoopy

Before I left the hostel, I took photos of my cell, Level 8 (formerly Death Row and now a miniature museum), the gallows (where Canada’s last public execution took place on 11 February 1869 of the alleged assassin Patrick James Whelan) and the exterior of the building.

I had done and seen all that time and money had permitted in Canada’s capital.

I visited some tourist sites, was reunited with familiar places and old friends, but there remained much to do and more places and people to visit in the time that remained before I had to return back to Switzerland.

So, as much as I longed to linger in Ottawa, I had made promises to other friends and family.

It was time to move on.

The OC Transpo Confederation LRT (light rapid transit) Line that brought me into the city centre from the VIA Rail station at Tremblay now brought me back to the station.

I smiled once again at the cleverness of the name of the station café, the Ministry of Coffee.

How fitting a name for its three locations in a government town!

coffee beans – The ministry of coffee LLC

I cursed VIA Rail bureaucracy and the modern age we live in for the sheer immensity of questions I was posed simply for the privilege of boarding a train bound for Kingston, but these days of fear and foreboding (since 9/11 and other terrorist attacks) have created an international climate of paranoia, even in a nation famous for supposedly never locking their doors.

A montage of eight images depicting, from top to bottom, the World Trade Center towers burning, the collapsed section of the Pentagon, the impact explosion in the South Tower, a rescue worker standing in front of rubble of the collapsed towers, an excavator unearthing a smashed jet engine, three frames of video depicting American Airlines Flight 77 hitting the Pentagon

There were four official stops on the Ottawa – Kingston route (Fallowfield, Smiths Falls, Brockville and Gananoque), but this 1027 train to Kingston seem unconcerned at stopping at any of these way stations.

Québec City–Windsor Corridor (Via Rail) - Wikiwand

Fallowfield Village is named after the Manchester suburb in England, which, truth be told, bothers me.

So often have folks in North America named places after the colonial empire places they left behind, perhaps in the hope that the new settlement will resemble the old.

But to me this expectation is a strange sort of madness.

I fail to see any similarities beyond nomenclature between York and New York City, between London (Ontario) and London (England).

They are as similar to one another as apples are to oranges.

Sunset at Fallowfield Station.jpg

Fallowfield Village, from the limited perspective of a train seat window, serves as a bedroom community for the larger urban area of Ottawa as there are no retail or commercial enterprises in the village.

It assumes a rather prominent position over the surrounding countryside as the major part of the Village is located on a gently terraced escarpment.

Population for the village is estimated at about 366 people as of 2004.

Fallowfield station is located in Ottawa

Fallowfield Village was originally settled in the 1820s by Irish immigrants from counties Tipperary and Cork at which time the majority of Carleton County was similarly settled.

There are two churches, both along Steeple Hill: St. Patrick’s Roman Catholic Church built in 1833 with the current stone chapel completed in 1866, and the Fallowfield United Church built in 1868 with the current chapel completed in 1886. 

The cornerstone for the United (then Methodist) church was laid by Canada’s first Prime Minister, Sir John A. Macdonald (1815 – 1891).

Fallowfield | Ottawa Lives Here

The name for the area was Piety Hill, but the village name was not formalized to Fallowfield until 1 June 1872, with the appointment of a postmaster, Patrick Omeara, and the opening of a post office.

As a direct result of this action, the village received its name, the origin of which was supposedly inspired by nearby fields left fallow for the summer, but, despite claims to the contrary, I suspect the name is historically linked to Fallowfield suburb in England.

So often, too often, have Canadians wished to show that despite increased self-determination that they were at heart British subjects.

The village name-changing post office was closed 30 June 1914.

For a timeline perspective, the Rideau Canal was built between 1826 and 1832 and the village of Richmond, to the southwest, was settled in 1818.

Fallowfield Village was a strategic stopover point for travels between Perth, Richmond and Bytown (later to become Ottawa).

By the turn of the century, Fallowfield was a bustling village and it became a favourite stopping place for travellers, especially farmers with their produce wagons and horse teams, en route to and from the market in Ottawa.

At one time there were four hotels in the village to serve the travelling public.

In addition, there were three carriage shops, two blacksmiths, a grist mill, tailor shop, cheese factory, shoemaker, general store and weigh scales for the farmers to weigh their produce.

The widespread use of the automobile rendered the village into a bedroom community as farther distances could be travelled in one day with no need for stopovers like what Fallowfield Village offered.

Again evident is the nearsightedness of Man in believing there is nothing but profit to be made by progress.

The notion that a village could die never once entered the minds of the automobile buyer.

23 June 2002 saw numerous tragedies in the Ottawa area.

The Lady Duck (an amphibious hovercraft tour boat that operated in Ottawa) sank, the Ontario Power Generation Barrett Chute Dam overflowed into the Madawaska River, killing a mother and son, and Fallowfield Village was struck by an F2 tornado at around 1715 hours.

89 - La tragédie du Lady Duck | Le Droit - Gatineau, Ottawa

Powering Ontario > Hydroelectric power | OPG

(F2 refers to the Fujita Scale for rating tornado intensity.

F2 refers to wind speeds of 113 – 150 mph, resulting in considerable damage.) 

F5 tornado Elie Manitoba 2007.jpg

Many trees were uprooted and homes damaged.

Barns were levelled and garages damaged to the point of demolition.

Very few residents were spared from some sort of damage.

I sincerely doubt that any of the folks deserved the tragic events of that dismal day of 23 June.

Smiths Falls, 75 km / 47 miles southwest of Ottawa, is a town with a population of 8,780, according to the 2016 census.

The Rideau Canal waterway passes through the town, with four separate locks in three locations and a combined lift of over 15 metres (50 ft).

Smiths Falls ON.JPG

The town’s name was sometimes alternatively spelled “Smith’s Falls” or “Smith Falls“, but “Smiths Falls” is now considered correct.

The town is named after Thomas Smyth, a United Empire Loyalist who in 1786 was granted 400 acres (1.6 km2) in what is present-day Smiths Falls.

(United Empire Loyalists (or simply Loyalists)(UEL) is an honorific which was first given by the 1st Lord Dorchester, the Governor of Québec and Governor-General of the Canadas, to Americans who remained loyal to the British Crown and who resettled in British North America during or after the American Revolution. 

Above: Loyalist flag

At the time, Canadian or Canadien was used to refer to the indigenous First Nations peoples and the French settlers inhabiting the province of Québec. 

A vertical triband design (red, white, red) with a red maple leaf in the center.

Loyalists settled primarily in Nova Scotia and Lower Canada (now called Québec) (including the Eastern Townships (Cantons d’Est) and Montréal).

The influx of Loyalist settlers resulted in the creation of several new colonies.

In 1784, New Brunswick (Nouveau Brunswick) was partitioned from the colony of Nova Scotia after significant Loyalist resettlement around the Bay of Fundy.

The influx of Loyalist refugees also resulted in the province of Québec’s division into Lower Canada (present-day Québec) and Upper Canada (present-day Ontario) in 1791.

United Empire Loyalists - McClelland

The Crown gave them land grants of one lot.

One lot consisted of 200 acres (81 ha) per person to encourage their resettlement, as the government wanted to develop the frontier of Upper Canada.

This resettlement added many English speakers to the Canadian population.

It was the beginning of new waves of immigration that established a predominantly English-speaking population in the future Canada both west and east of the modern Québec provincial borders.)

At the time of construction of the Rideau Canal a small settlement had been established around a mill operated by Abel Russell Ward, who had bought Smyth’s land. 

Colonel By ordered the removal of Ward’s mill to make way for the canal.

He settled with Ward for £1,500, one of the largest claims made by mill owners on the canal.

The disruption of industry caused by the building of the canal was only temporary and Smiths Falls grew rapidly following construction.

John By.jpg

Above: John By (1779 – 1836)

An article in Smith’s Gazetteer in 1846 described the town as a “flourishing little village pleasantly situated on the Rideau River and on the Canal, fourteen miles (23 km) from Perth.

It contains about 700 inhabitants.

There are fifty dwellings, two grist mills (one with four run of stones), two sawmills, one carding and fulling mill, seven stores, six groceries, one axe factory, six blacksmiths, two wheelwrights, one cabinet maker, one chair-maker, three carpenters, one gunsmith, eleven shoemakers, seven tailors, one tinsmith and two taverns.

A 36-foot (11 m) drop in less than a quarter of a mile posed an obstacle to navigation at Smiths Falls.

A natural depression to the south of the river was used to create a flight of three locks, known as the Combined Lockstation today.

The natural course of the river was dammed to create a basin upstream of the locks.

At the upper end of the basin a fourth (detached) lock was constructed.

Rideau Canal - A History of the Rideau Lockstations: Smiths Falls  Lockstation

A mile below the Combined Lockstation is a flight of two locks called the Old Slys Lockstation.

This station is named for the original settler at this location, William Sly.

A dam and waste weir (a low level barrier) control water levels upstream of the locks.

Defensible lockmasters’ houses were built at all three stations in Smiths Falls.

The house at Old Slys was built in 1838 and the houses at the Combined and the Detached Lockstations around 1842.

Only the house at the Combined has a second storey, which was added late in the 19th century.

The defensible lockmaster’s house at the Detached Lockstation was torn down in 1894.

Smiths Falls – The Heart of the Rideau Canal – Ontario, Canada

In the 1850s the major railway companies were looking to build main trunk lines linking Toronto, Kingston and Montréal. 

The two major companies at the time, the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) and the Grand Trunk Railway (GNR), were competing for the easiest routes to lay track.

At one point a fledgling third national railway, the Canadian Northern Railway (CNoR), was also trying to squeeze itself into the busy Montréal-Ottawa-Toronto corridor.

For a number of geographical reasons, and also due to the proximity of the Rideau Canal, the town of Smiths Falls became a major focal point for both the CPR and the CNoR.

Each used a mix of existing regional rail lines and new construction to build their networks.

CP purchased the 1859-era Brockville and Ottawa Railway, a line from Brockville – Smiths Falls – Sand Point/Arnprior with a branch Smiths Falls -Perth (the latter joining CP’s Ontario and Québec Railway line to Toronto). 

CNoR built a 1914-era main line from Ottawa to Smiths Falls and Sydenham (to join an existing Bay of Quinte Railway line extending westward via Napanee-Deseronto).

By 1887, the CPR had extended its Toronto-Smiths Falls mainline to reach Montréal.

In 1924, 1,600 CPR workers were employed in Smiths Falls.

This gave the town direct rail lines in half a dozen directions (towards Toronto, Ottawa, Montréal, Brockville, Napanee and Arnprior) on two different rail companies.

Smiths Falls VIA station 26262991883.jpg

Above: Smiths Falls station

During World War II, Axis prisoners of war (POWs) were transported to Canadian POW camps via the railway.

Canadian Concentration Camps

It was near Smiths Falls that German soldier Oberlieutenant Franz von Werra jumped from a POW train and escaped to the United States, eventually reaching his homeland.

Franz von Werra.jpg

Above: Franz von Werra (1914 – 1941)

Von Werra was, reputedly, the only escaped Axis POW to successfully return home during the war and his story was told in the book and film entitled The One That Got Away.

The North American première of the film occurred on Thursday, 6 March 1958 at the Soper Theatre in Smiths Falls.

The One That Got Away film poster.jpg

(Franz Xaver Baron von Werra (1914 – 1941) was a German WWII fighter pilot and flying ace who was shot down over Britain and captured.

He is generally regarded as the only Axis POW to succeed in escaping from Canadian custody and return to Germany, although a U-boat seaman, Walter Kurt Reich, is also said to have escaped by jumping from a Polish troop ship into the St. Lawrence River in July 1940.

Werra managed to return to Germany via the US, Mexico, South America and Spain, finally reaching Germany on 18 April 1941.)

Above: Franz von Werra’s crashed Bf 109E-4 plane, Marden, Kent

Both the CP and the CNoR (later part of CN) had established stations in the town.

However, with the creation of VIA Rail, the CN station was abandoned and all passenger traffic routed through the CPR station until a new Smiths Falls railway station opened in 2010.

The CN station has been renovated and is now home to the Railway Museum of Eastern Ontario.

The railway station, along with the nearby railway bascule bridge, comprise the town’s two National Historic Sites of Canada.

Above. Bascule Bridge, Smiths Falls

The Cataraqui Trail now follows the former CN rail bed southwest from Smiths Falls, starting from a parking lot at the end of Ferrara Drive.

Cataraqui Trail (Smiths Falls) - 2020 All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go  (with Photos) - Tripadvisor

(The Cataraqui Trail is a 104-km Rails-to-Trails multi-use linear recreational trail, that passes by farmland, woods, lakes, and wetlands.

Cataraqui Trail east of Chaffey's Lock DSCN2187r.jpg

The Trail begins southwest of Smiths Falls, at a parking lot south of Ontario Highway 15 designated as Kilometre Zero.

Numbered posts are situated every one to five kilometres.

An Afternoon Hike along the Cataraqui Trail | Lennox & Addington

In its midsection the trail crosses the UNESCO Frontenac Arch Biosphere Reserve.

Thousand Islands 2.JPG

(The biosphere reserve was designated in 2002 and is one of 16 biosphere reserves in Canada.

The Frontenac Arch Biosphere operates primarily within a 2,700 km2. region from Brockville to Kingston, extending north to Verona and Perth.

The Frontenac Arch Biosphere is located in the Thousand Islands – Frontenac Arch area, in one of the great crossroads of Eastern Canada.

About | Frontenac Arch Biosphere

An ancient granite bridge, called the Frontenac Arch, runs from the northern Canadian Shield in Algonquin Park to the Adirondack Mountains in the United States.

The granite arch intersects with the St. Lawrence River in the southernmost part of the Frontenac Arch Biosphere boundary, as the St. Lawrence River runs southwest to northeast from Kingston to Brockville.)

Frontenac Arch Biosphere - Rideauheritageroute

The 78.2 kilometres (48.6 mi) segment of the Cataraqui Trail running from Smiths Falls to Harrowsmith is part of the Trans Canada Trail.

The Rideau Canal is crossed on a 1912 railway trestle at Chaffey’s Locks, near kilometre post 42.

The K & P (Kingston and Pembroke) Rail Trail (between Renfrew and Kingston) intersects the Cataraqui Trail at Harrowsmith.

Both the main Rideau Trail and its blue-blazed side trails share the Cataraqui Trail right-of-way in several places.

Trail’s end is reached at Strathcona near Napanee.

Access points and parking lots are dotted along the route.

The route runs along the roadbed of the former CN railway.

Most of the rail bed was donated to the Cataraqui Region Conservation Authority (CRCA) by CN in 1997.

Some sections are privately owned, but access has been granted.

Except for emergency and maintenance vehicles, motorized travel is not permitted.)

Frontenac Arch Biosphere Reserve – The Wilds of Ontario

Smiths Falls is on the Rideau Canal system for recreational boating, and is served by the Smiths Falls Montague Airport (Russ Beach) for general aviation.

It is also a major railway junction point and its station receives regular passenger service to Ottawa and Toronto from VIA Rail. 

Nearly 100 kids flew free at the Smiths Falls/Montague Airport thanks to  COPA for Kids | NiagaraThisWeek.com

Several manufacturers were based in Smiths Falls, perhaps the best-known being the Canadian operation of the Hersey Company (opened in 1963) which closed in December 2008.

Hershey announced they would instead open a factory in Mexico, where they could obtain cheaper labour.

HersheyCo.svg

Other former large manufacturers include RCA Victor (closed in 1980), Frost and Wood / Cockshutt and Stanley Tools (2008).

1934 Cockshutt (the Frost & Wood co.) 5 parts lists - catalog book manual |  #1887159964

Stanley Hand Tools logo.svg

The closure of the Rideau Regional hospital site in March 2009 resulted in a further loss of jobs from the community.

However, the 350-acre site was purchased by a local developer (who made an unsuccessful bid for mayor in the 2018 election) and renamed the Gallipeau Centre.

It is a mixed use property with residential and recreational uses including condominiums, a recreational facility, swimming pool and theatre.

Mixed Use Residential-Commercial Development | Ottawa Area | Gallipeau  Centre

In 2014, the former Hershey facility was purchased by the medical marijuana company Tweed Marijuana Inc, now known as the publicly traded company Canopy Growth Corporation.

The town has been cited as the “Pot Capital of Canada“.

Canopy Growth Corporation logo.svg

Over 750 jobs have been created by Canopy Growth which has revitalized the town’s economy after the departure of the Hershey factory and the closure of Rideau Regional Centre.

Investment by Constellation Brands of $5B in Canopy Growth Corporation has helped further secure the positive economic potential for Smiths Falls.

The company is continuing to grow and expand, creating new local jobs.

Canopy has purchased the site of the closed Shorewood Packaging building to construct a facility for bottling cannabis infused beverages.

As well, chocolate has begun to flow again at the site of the former Hershey plant as Canopy Growth has commenced the production of cannabis infused chocolate edibles.

Public tours of weed production are available to the public, similar to the Hershey factory tours.

There has been significant growth in construction in the community.

Canopy Growth unveils edibles lineup - Food In Canada

On 6 March and 8 March 1906, a hockey team from Smiths Falls launched an unsuccessful challenge to win the Stanley Cup against the Ottawa Hockey Club at (now non-existent) Dey’s Arena in Ottawa.

(During the period from 1893 to 1914, the Stanley Cup was a “challenge trophy“: the champions held the Cup until they lost their league title to another club, or a champion from another league issued a formal challenge and subsequently defeated them in a special game or series.)

 

Stanley Cup in 2015

Above: The Stanley Cup

Smiths Falls was home to a professional baseball team, the Smiths Falls Beavers, for one season in 1937.

The team was a part of the Canadian-American League.

In 1937, the Beavers played 106 games.  

Baseball Summer : The Story of the 1937 Smiths Falls Beavers : Doug  Phillips : 9780557016907

(The Canadian–American League, nicknamed the Can-Am League, was a class C circuit which ran from 1936 through 1951, with a three-year break during World War II.)

Amazon.com: Baseball's Canadian-American League (9780786425297): David  Pietrusza: Books

The town is currently home to the Junior A hockey team Smiths Falls Bears, who play in the Central Canada Hockey League (CCHL).

Smiths Falls Bears.png

Smiths Falls is also home to the Settlers organization, which is a member of the Canadian Premier Junior Hockey League (CPJHL), which operates throughout Ontario and Western Québec.

Tickets - Smiths Falls Settlers

There are many opportunities for minor and adult league sports including baseball, volleyball, basketball, soccer, ball hockey and hockey (for men and women).

Lower Reach, located next to Rideau River, is home to baseball diamonds, soccer fields, play structures and a splash pad.

Facilities | Smiths Falls

The Rideau Trail passes through Smiths Falls.

AREA TRAILS | Health and Adventure

(The Rideau Trail is a 387-kilometre (240 mi) hiking trail linking Ottawa and Kingston.

Crossing both public and private lands, the Trail was created and opened in 1971.

It is named for the Rideau Canal which also connects Ottawa and Kingston, although the two only occasionally connect.

The trail crosses terrain ranging from the placid farmland of the Ottawa River and St. Lawrence River valleys to the rugged Canadian Shield in Frontenac Provincial Park.

The trail also passes through Richmond, Perth and Smiths Falls.

It is intended only for walking (hiking), snowshoeing, and cross-country skiing.)

10 things I learned on the Rideau Trail - Au-delà du paysage

From the Smiths Falls Record-News, Wednesday 26 July 1989:

Since the rather tender age of 15, Canada Slim has lived with a dream.

Now, nine years later, he is living out his dream.

The ambitious Canada Slim is walking across Canada.

As a teenager, he said:

“I read a book called A Walk Across America, by Peter Jenkins.

He was so inspired by it that he decided when the time was right, he would embark upon a similar venture.

A Walk Across America PAR PETER JENKINS: SETH ROFFMAN: Amazon.com: Books

Time ripened slowly for Canada Slim, however, and he was not able to begin his mammoth march until this summer.

He left from Parliament Hill in Ottawa on 1 July at high noon.

He headed across the Ottawa River and through the woods to Gatineau Park, at first.

From there he progressed, gradually to Aylmer, Norway Bay, Shawville and Pembroke, where he stopped briefly to look for work.

Rue Principale (Main Street)

Above: Rue Principale (Main Street), Aylmer, Québec

Above.: Norway Bay

Shawville main street

Above: Shawville, Québec

Pembroke Street Bridge crossing the Muskrat River, with City Hall in the background.

Above: Pembroke Street Bridge crossing the Muskrat River, with City Hall in the background

Finding none, he moseyed on down to Renfrew and worked there for about a week and a half.

Renfrew town hall.jpg

Above: Renfrew Town Hall – The steeple was built in 1872 to replace an earlier town hall on the site which dated from 1670

Although Canada Slim is actually walking across the country, however indirectly, one might more aptly describe his undertaking as “working” his way through Canada.

Since he is not representing a charity of any sort, he explained, he feels it is more honourable to earn the money he needs for his travels.

A projection of North America with Canada highlighted in green

When you are in a situation that you need charity, it is okay to use it,” he commented, but one shouldn’t abuse the system.

If finding temporary work means it will take him a little longer to traverse this land, so be it.

He has set no definite time frame or route, he said, but anticipates spending roughly the next four years walking, walking, walking.

Presently, Canada Slim covers about 30 miles per day, he said, and as he becomes more fit, he expects to pick up the pace a bit, reaching a top speed of about 50 miles a day.

And of course, like a turtle, he must carry all his paraphenalia on his back.

He has already become quite attached to his 50-pound backpack, his sole companion on the road, and has dubbed it “Matilda” – as in the Australian song “Waltzing Matilda“, he explained.

When his monumental trek is finally finished, Canada Slim may write a book about his adventures, complete with pictures.

Basically, I am doing it to see the country and meet the people,”, he said, but a book is a definite possibility.

It is an interesting experience and nobody has done it here before.

A map of Canada showing its 10 provinces and 3 territories

He has always enjoyed travelling and writing, he said, and this is a way to combine the two.

As well, he wanted to see for himself what Canada is all about.

Having grown up an Anglophone of Scottish ancestry, in Québec, he heard a lot about regional disparity and decided to learn firsthand what actually holds the country together.

He had been taught, he said, that Canada is “a motley collection of provinces, held together by a constitution that seemed like a good idea at the time“.

He hopes to make connections between the provinces and, by writing about, help people see the ties.

And, along the way, Canada Slim commented with a mischievous grin:

I might even find me a wife.

That, too, was one of the outcomes of the walk across the United States which his boyhood idol Jenkins took.

Crimpe Diem - A Walk Across America by Peter Jenkins. | National  geographic, Photo, I love dogs

Meanwhile, the indomitable Canada Slim walks on.

His next goal is to attend the Maxville Highland Games and get in touch with some of his Scottish roots.

Eventually, he will work his way to the East Coast, then strike out for the West.

I just want to take my time and see Canada.

I am in it for the adventure,” he said, adding:

If I start worrying about it, I will never do it.

Murray McLauchlan - Try Walking Away / Don't Put Your Faith In Men (1979,  Vinyl) | Discogs

Smiths Falls to Napanee, Thursday 9 January 2020

I share this story for two reasons:

First, I have history in Smiths Falls.

One of the most vivid memories I have of Smiths Falls is of my being unwittingly and pleasantly the centre of attention of a group of young campers who seemed genuinely happy to have met me.

Somehow, talk flowed as to what I carried with me in my Matilda and I found myself reading out loud by the light of a campfire Robert W. Service’s most famous two poems “The Shooting of Dan McGrew” and “The Cremation of Sam McGee” from his Songs of a Sourdough, that accompanied me (along with a heavy collection of other books) everywhere I walked.

Robert W. Service, c. 1905

Above: Robert W. Service (1874 – 1958)

There are strange things done in the midnight sun,
By the men who moil for gold;
The Arctic trails have their secret tales
That would make your blood run cold;
The Northern Lights have seen queer sights,
But the queerest they ever did see
Was that night on the marge of Lake Lebarge
I cremated Sam McGee.

A bunch of the boys were whooping it up in the Malamute saloon

The kid that handles the music-box was hitting a jag-time tune

Back of the bar, in a solo game, sat Dangerous Dan McGrew

And watching his luck was his light-o’-love, the lady that’s known as Lou.

Songs of a Sourdough: Service, Robert: 9780510324216: Amazon.com: Books

There is something about Service’s meter and tone that I have always loved.

That night by the Rideau Canal when I read poetry by firelight to a rapt audience has always remained with me.

VICTORIA PARK CAMPGROUND - Updated 2020 Reviews (Smiths Falls, Ontario) -  Tripadvisor

Second, my walking adventures and their outcome clearly illustrate to me how life does not generally happen the way we expect it to.

The expectations people had for me were not quite accomplished in the ways they might have envisioned.

Expectations is part and parcel of the Napanee Sadness.

Smiths Falls has, of course, seen far more noteworthy persons than myself.

Oliver R. Avison (1860 – 1959) was a Canadian doctor, physician, humanitarian, missionary and professor, who spent over four decades spreading Western medical knowledge in Korea.

Avison is regarded as the founder of westernized medicine in Korea and his medical mission theory has enabled this modern medicine to be sustained in Korea.

Oliver R. Avison.jpg

Above: Oliver R. Avison, MD (1860 – 1959)

While most of the Christian mission hospitals established in the 20th century are now closed, Severance Hospital, in Seoul, continues to progress, making it a notable establishment in the medical mission world.

By 2005, the hospital’s rapid expansion led to its movement to a new building and 2014 brought a new cancer center to the hospital.

Overall, Severance Hospital has laid the foundation for modern medicine in Korea, and due to Avison’s efforts, it has produced many doctors and nurses and an improvement in medical care.

Above: Severance Hospital, Seoul, South Korea

Fifty years after the opening of his teaching hospital, Avison’s hospital helped Korea transition from being a country that received medical help from missionaries, to being a country that sends out missionaries.

Avison’s approach towards the local population at the time was notably secular.

Avison spread Western medical practices and sciences, ultimately leading to a great transformation within the indigenous population into well-trained, respected doctors, nurses and clinicians.

Centered taegeuk on a white rectangle inclusive of four black trigrams

Above: Flag of South Korea

He and his wife are both buried in Smiths Falls.

Oliver R Avison (1860-1956) - Find A Grave Memorial

Brockville, formerly Elizabethtown, known as the “City of the 1000 Islands“, is located on the north shore of the St. Lawrence River, about halfway between Kingston to the west and Cornwall to the east.

It is 115 km (71 mi) south of the national capital Ottawa.

The city faces Morristown, New York, on the other side of the river.

John H. Fulford Fountain, Brockville, Ontario.jpg

Above: John N. Fulford Fountain, Brockville, Ontario

(I crossed there at the start of my second long-distance hitchhiking adventure in the States, which took me from Morristown to Minnesota, down the Mississippi to New Orleans, over to Florida and up the Eastern Seaboard back to Canada.)

Brockville is one of Ontario’s oldest communities first established by Euro-Canadians and is named after the British general Sir Isaac Brock.

Brockville, Ontario, Canada - panoramio.jpg

Above. Brockville skyline

Isaac Brock (1769 – 1812) was a British Army officer and colonial administrator from the Channel Island of Guernsey.

Brock was assigned to Lower Canada in 1802. Despite facing desertions and near-mutinies, he commanded his regiment in Upper Canada successfully for many years.

He was promoted to major general and became responsible for defending Upper Canada against the United States.

While many in Canada and Britain believed war could be averted, Brock began to ready the army and militia for what was to come.

Isaac Brock portrait 1, from The Story of Isaac Brock (1908)-2 (cropped).png

Above: Isaac Brock (1769 – 1812)

When the War of 1812 broke out, the populace was prepared, and quick victories at Fort Mackinac and Detroit defeated American invasion efforts.

Fort Mackinac 2008.jpg

Above: Fort Mackinac, Michigan

Above: The surrender of Detroit

Brock’s actions, particularly his success at Detroit, earned him accolades including a knighthood and the sobriquet “The Hero of Upper Canada“.

Brock died at the Battle of Queenston Heights, which the British won.

Push on, brave York volunteers(large).jpg

(How to annoy Americans:

Suggest to them that not only did America not win the War of 1812, but in a way that war was America’s first Vietnam.

Further enrage them by telling them that America started the War and Canada finished it.)

Above: the US declaration of war

Above: Isaac Brock’s Proclamation in response to the US declatation

The city notably features the Brockville Tunnel, Canada’s first railway tunnel, finished in December 1860, and closed in 1970.

(Construction began in September 1854 and the first train passed through the tunnel on 31 December 1860.)

It was acquired by the City of Brockville in 1982 and was reopened in August 2017 as an LED-illuminated pedestrian tunnel with music.

Alongside Fulford Place (an historic house museum) and the Aquatarium (a non-profit interactive science and education museum that focuses on the history and ecology of the Thousand Islands region), the Tunnel has since become one of the most famous tourist attractions in the city, and even all of Ontario.

Brockville became Ontario’s first incorporated self-governing town on 28 January 1832, two years before the town of Toronto.

By 1846, the population was 2,111, and there were many buildings made of stone and brick.

There was a County Court House and Jail, six chapels, and a steamboat pier for travel to and from Montréal and Kingston.

Two newspapers were published, there were two banks and the post office received mail daily.

Several court and government departments had offices here.

The first industries consisted of one grist mill, four tanneries, two asheries and four wagon makers, in addition to tradesmen of various types.

Above: Brockville Town Hall

Later in the 19th century, the town developed as a local centre of industry, including shipbuilding, saddleries, tanneries, tinsmiths, a foundry, a brewery, and several hotels.

By 1854, a patent medicine industry had sprung up in Brockville and in Morristown, featuring such products as Dr Morse’s Indian Root Pills, Dr. McKenzie’s Worm Tablets and Dr. Williams’ Pink Pills for Pale People.

(Containing ferrous sulfate and magnesium sulfate, the Pink Pills were produced by Dr. Williams Medicine Company, the trading arm of G.T. Fulford & Company.

It was claimed to cure chorea, referenced frequently in newspaper headlines as “St. Vitus’ Dance“; as well as “locomotor ataxia”, partial paralyxia, seistica, neuralgia rheumatism, nervous headache, the after-effects of la grippe (the flu), palpitation of the heart, pale and sallow complexions, and all forms of weakness in male or female.”

The pills were available over-the-counter.

Reverend Enoch Hill of M.E. Church of Grand Junction in Iowa, endorsed the product in many 1900s advertisements, claiming that it energized him and cured his chronic headaches.

Eventually, the product came to be advertised around the world in 82 countries, including its native Canada, the United States and Europe. 

The Pink Pills were widely used across the British Empire and, as the historian of Southeast Asia Mary Kilcline Cody puts it:

If the invulnerability magic of the sola topi, the spine pad and the cholera belt failed, Europeans could always rely on the Pink Pills to alleviate the pressures of bearing the white man’s burden.

Lost Times and Untold Tales from the Malay World, van der Putten, Cody

The Pink Pills were not only marketed in Europe:

Tales of its “wonder” spread even to Egypt.

Coated in pink-coloured sugar, an analysis of the pills conducted in 1909 for the British Medical Association (BMA) revealed them to contain sulphate of iron, potassium carbonate, magnesia, powdered liquorice, and sugar.

BMA - Home | British Medical Association

Approximately one third of the iron sulphate in the pills had oxidised in the sampling analysed, leading to the statement that the pills had been “very carelessly prepared“.

The formula went through several changes, and at one stage included the laxative aloe, the major ingredient of Beecham’s Pills.

The Pills were finally withdrawn from the market in the 1970s.

When George Taylor Fulford, Sr., the Canadian senator that founded G. T. Fulford & Company, died in 1905 in an automobile accident, George Taylor Fulford II (Jr.) became involved in the family business.

Today, the home of George Taylor Fulford, Sr., Fulford Place, is a tourist attraction that showcases the success of patent medicine products.

It was acquired by the Ontario Heritage Foundation in 1991.)

George Taylor Fulford.jpg

Above: Senator George Taylor Fulford

Above: Fulford Place, Brockville

In 1855, Brockville was chosen as a divisional point of the new Grand Trunk Railway (GTR) between Montréal and Toronto.

This contributed to its growth, as it could offer jobs in railway maintenance and related fields.

At the same time, the north–south line of the Brockville and Ottawa Railway (the B & O R) was built to join the timber trade of the Ottawa Valley with the St. Lawrence River ship route.

Thus the Brockville Tunnel was built.

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Brockville and many other towns in Canada West were targets of the threatened Fenian invasion after the American Civil War ended in 1865.

Above: Fenian flag

In June 1866, the Irish-American Brotherhood of Fenians invaded Canada.

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Above: Percentage of Irish ancestry in Canada and the US

They launched raids across the Niagara River into Canada West (Ontario) and from Vermont into Canada East (Quebec).

Canadian Prime Minister Sir John A. Macdonald called upon the volunteer militia companies in every town to protect Canada.

The Brockville Infantry Company and the Brockville Rifle Company (now called the Brockville Rifles) were mobilized.

The unsuccessful Fenian Raids were a catalyst that contributed to the creation of the new confederated Canada in 1867.

Brockville is home to several large industrial manufacturers. 

3M operates three factories in Brockville manufacturing tape and occupational health and safety products. 

3M wordmark.svg

Procter & Gamble manufactures dryer sheets and cleaning products employing 600 people, but is set to wind down operations and close the location in 2020.

Procter & Gamble logo.svg

Other industries include ceiling fan manufacturer Canarm, pharmaceutical manufacturer Trillium Canada, and the oil-blending plant of Shell Canada.

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Canadian retailer Giant Tiger has also opened a distribution centre for frozen food in Brockville.

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Famous folks from Brockville:

Brad Abraham is a Canadian-born screenwriter, author, journalist, producer, and comic book creator.

Magicians Impossible: A Novel: Abraham, Brad: 9781250083524: Amazon.com:  Books

His past film and television work include Stonehenge Apocalypse, Robocop: Prime Directives, I Love Mummy, Fresh Meat and Hoverboy.

StonehengeApocalypse2010Cover.jpg

RoboCop Prime Directives.jpg

Fresh Meat poster.jpg

He is also the creator and writer of the acclaimed comic book series Mixtape and author of the novel Magicians Impossible (2017).

Review: Mixtape | Irish Comic News

Magicians Impossible by Brad Abraham

George Chaffey (1848 – 1932) was a Canadian–born engineer who, with his brother William (1856 – 1926), developed large parts of Southern California, including what became the community of Etiwanda and the cities of Ontario and Upland.

They undertook similar developments in Australia which became the city of Mildura and the towns of Renmark and Paringa.

Above: George Chaffey

Above: William Chaffey

Joan Mowat Erikson (née Sarah Lucretia Serson) (1903 – 1997) was well known as the collaborator with her husband, Erik Erikson, and as an author, educator, craftsperson and dance ethnographer.

Biography - Erik Erikson

Joan Erikson was the main collaborator in developing husband Erik Erikson’s eight stages of psychosocial development.

Her contribution to Erikson’s theory of personality could have been neglected, but was nevertheless important:

Erik admitted being unable to distinguish between his own contribution and his wife’s. 

Joan had a great influence on the development of the stages and on the inclusion of the eighth stage.

Erik Erikson.png

Above: Erik Erikson (né Erik Salomonsen) (1902 – 1994)

The pair created the stages as they were experiencing them themselves, and after Erik’s death in 1994, Joan added a ninth stage of very old age.

This ninth stage is experienced in the eighties and nineties and is accompanied by a loss of physical health, friends, family members, and independence, in addition to isolation from society.

Often during this time, individuals are put into retirement communities and assisted living facilities, which Joan believed was isolating them from society and from youth.

She believed that “aging is a process of becoming free” and should not be treated as the opposite.

As a result of these changes, individuals experience a loss of autonomy, self-esteem, and trust.

Death is near and seen as an inevitable reality.

Joan contributed to the writings on the first eight stages in the book, The Life Cycle Completed, and later added the final part on the ninth stage.

The Life Cycle Completed: Erikson, Erik H., Erikson, Joan M.:  8601300247670: Amazon.com: Books

Joan Erikson believed that the arts possess their own healing properties and can be used as an exclusive form of therapy.

She believed that people’s artwork should not be psychoanalyzed or interpreted but should be used solely for healing through creative process.

She came into conflict with Anna Freud (1895 – 1982)(daughter of Sigmund Freud) over this issue while working at the school in Vienna, stating that children’s creativity should not be psychoanalyzed.

Anna Freud 1957.jpg

Above: Anna Freud

Joan created the Activities Program at the Austin Riggs Center in Massachusetts, which included a theatre program and other artistic outlets for patients.

There, Joan worked with Ellen Kivnick to determine which types of creative practices led to improved psychological development in children and youth.

They thought that using materials that can change shape could change the shape of a child’s psyche.

Joan encouraged artwork to be its own form of healing and to help patients learn new skills, instead of focusing on an absence of skills or abilities.

Her relationship with patients was not one of a therapist to patient, but one between artists.

History | Austen Riggs Center

Joan Erikson was an advocate of play throughout life, which she defined as something to do “for your own pleasure because you find it amusing and enhancing somehow.”

Play can be anything from art, to sports, to conversation.

Joan thought that adults spend too much time doing what they think they are supposed to be doing, and not taking time to do what they enjoy.

She related play to humour, and believed that without a sense of humor, people lose freedom and the ability to play.

John Richardson (1796 – 1852) was a Canadian officer in the British Army who became the first Canadian-born novelist to achieve international recognition.

Major John Richardson by Frederick William Lock

Richardson was born at Queenston, Ontario, on the Niagara River in 1796. 

As a young boy, Richardson lived for a time with his grandparents in Detroit and later with his parents at Fort Malden, Amherstburg.

His time at Fort Malden would later impact his literature and his life.

At age 16, Richardson enlisted in the British 41st Regiment of Foot. 

During his service with this regiment. he met Chief Tecumseh and Major General Isaac Brock, whom he later wrote about in his novel The Canadian Brothers.

Tecumseh02.jpg

Above: Shawnee Chief Tecumseh (1768 – 1813)

Tecumseh was among the most celebrated Shawnee leaders in history and was known as a strong and eloquent orator who promoted tribal unity. He was also ambitious, willing to take risks, and make significant sacrifices to repel American settlers from native lands

Canadian Brothers or the Prophecy Fulfilled: Richardson, John, Stephens,  Donald: 9780886291716: Books - Amazon.ca

While stationed at Fort Malden during the War of 1812, Richardson witnessed the execution of an American prisoner by Tecumseh’s forces at the River Raisin, a traumatic experience which haunted him for the rest of his life.

During this war, Richardson was imprisoned for a year in the United States after his capture during the Battle of Moraviantown.

Battle of the Thames.PNG

Above: the Battle of Moraviantown (or the Battle of the Thames), 5 October 1813 – an American victory in the War of 1812 against Tecumseh’s Confederacy and their British allies. The British lost control of Southwestern Ontario as a result of the battle, Tecumseh and his war chief Roundhead were killed, and Tecumseh’s Confederacy largely fell apart.

Richardson’s later military service took him to England and, for two years, to the West Indies. 

While in the West Indies, Richardson was appalled by the treatment of slaves there.

Richardson stated that his mixed racial background made him uneasy with his fellow officers in the West Indies.

This may have contributed to his evenhanded treatment of First Nations people in his novels.

Antillas (orthographic projection).svg

Richardson’s most savage characters, Wacousta in the novel Wacousta (1832) and Desborough in The Canadian Brothers (1840), are in fact white men who have turned “savage“.

Richardson began his fiction-writing career with novels about the British and French societies of his time.

In his third and most successful novel, Wacousta, he turned to the North American frontier for his setting and history.

He followed the same practice in the sequel, The Canadian Brothers.

Wacousta by John Richardson: 9780735236011 | PenguinRandomHouse.com: Books

In 1838, Richardson returned to Canada from England, promoted to the rank of major.

He tried to earn his livelihood by writing fiction and by setting up a series of weekly newspapers.

Richardson settled on a nearby farm in 1840.

In 1841 he founded his New Era (or Canadian Chronicle), a literary weekly that failed the following year.

He then published another short-lived newspaper at Brockville, the Canadian Loyalist (1843 – 1844).

Shortly thereafter, Richardson left Brockville.

The Canadian Don Quixote; the Life and Works of Major John Richardson.  Canada's first novelist by David Beasley | BookLife

He was appointed superintendent of the police on the Welland Canal in 1845, but was fired the next year.

In 1849 Richardson moved to New York City, where he continued to write fiction.

However, his attempts to build a literary career in the US failed.

John Richardson died (supposedly of starvation) in New York City in 1852.

He was buried in the paupers’ cemetery in New York.

His grave site is unknown.

Above: New York City and the East River, 1848

Shon Seung-wan (Korean: 손승완), known professionally as Wendy, is a South Korean singer.

She is a member of the South Korean girl group Red Velvet.

Wendy was born in Seoul.

Coming from a family of music lovers, Wendy showed interest in becoming a singer when she was only six years old.

Besides her passion for singing, she is also able to play several instruments, including the piano, guitar, flute and saxophone.

She lived with her family in Jecheon until her fifth year of elementary school, when she moved to Canada with her older sister, Shon Seung-hee,to study abroad.

She lived in Brockville before moving to Faribault, Minnesota, where she was an honour student and athlete, and earned various awards for academics and music-related activities.

There, she started using her English name ‘Wendy Shon‘.

Wendy at Incheon Airport on September 9, 2019.jpg

 

She later studied in Richmond Hill, Ontario, where she participated in the school’s show choir called Vocal Fusion.

While living in both countries, she became fluent in English and also learned to speak some French and Spanish.

Her parents were initially against her pursuing a career in music and wanted her to focus on her studies, but while she was still in high school, they eventually allowed her to audition to become a singer in South Korea.

On 1 August 2014, Wendy made her official debut as a member of Red Velvet. 

Red Velvet at the August 2019 Soribada Awards From left to right: Joy, Yeri, Irene, Seulgi and Wendy

Above: Red Velvet at the August 2019 Soribada Awards From left to right: Joy, Yeri, Irene, Seulgi and Wendy

Red Velvet have been lauded for breaking stereotypes among popular girl groups in South Korea, who tend to fall under either “cute and pure” or “sexy“.

In a country where girl groups’ fan bases are mostly male, Taylor Glasby of Dazed Digital noted that the majority of Red Velvet’s fans are young women.

Dazed Spring 2020 Selena Gomez.jpg

IZE Magazine named the group as one of the successful female figures who helped transform the “passive image” of South Korean women.

Billboard reported that Red Velvet were the overall favorite K-pop group of the year among every gender and sexual identity on the popular Internet forum Reddit.

Reddit logo

Red Velvet’s musical versatility has led to recognition by Time magazine as one of the world’s best K-pop groups.

Red Velvet were also praised for their brand recognition and marketing power, having topped the ‘Girl Group Brand Power Ranking‘ published by the Korean Corporate Reputation Research Institute several times.

In November 2019, Billboard crowned Red Velvet as “the best idol group alive” and named “Red Flavour” as the second-best K-pop song of the 2010s.

Red Velvet (레드벨벳) - Red Flavor (빨간 맛) | Full Piano Cover by Erie on  SoundCloud - Hear the world's sounds

Red Velvet’s performance in Pyongyang in 2018 — which made them the 7th idol group to perform in North Korea and the first since 2003 — was part of a wider diplomatic initiative between South Korea and North Korea and earned the group a commendation from South Korea’s Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism for their contributions in spreading South Korean popular culture.

Discussing the Korean Wave in 2018, the director of the Korea Foundation for International Cultural Exchange cited Red Velvet as a major contributor and one of the country’s most talented idol groups who have “largely promoted K-pop” around the world.

red velvet album cover | Red velvet irene, Red velvet seulgi, Red velvet  image

I am not remotely suggesting that Wendy‘s success springs from her time in Brockville (or Richmond Hill), but, at the risk of sounding over-the-top patriotic about my home and native land of Canada, it has always seemed to me that my country’s record regarding women, though far from perfect and always needing improvement – (the record not the women) – is by comparison with other nations relatively a supportive and affirming one.

I like to believe that Wendy‘s youth in Canada shaped her self-reliance and confidence to be able to succeed in her dreams as a musician.

Wendy from Red Velvet: powerhouse vocalist is a musician through and  through | South China Morning Post

Frances Ford Seymour Fonda (1908 – 1950) was a Canadian-born American socialite.

She was the second wife of actor Henry Fonda (1905 – 1982) and the mother of actors Jane Fonda and Peter Fonda (1940 – 2019).

Born in Brockville, Seymour was the daughter of Sophie Mildred (née Bower) and Eugene Ford Seymour.

According to her daughter Jane, medical records revealed that Seymour was a victim of recurrent sexual abuse in her childhood.

On 10 January 1931, she married George Tuttle Brokaw (1879 – 1935), a millionaire lawyer and sportsman.

They had one child, Frances de Villers “Pan” Brokaw (1931 – 2008).

Frances Ford Seymour (1938).jpg

Above: Frances Fonda (née Frances Ford)

A year after Brokaw died, Seymour married actor Henry Fonda on 16 September 1936, at Christ Church, New York City.

She had met Fonda at Denham Studios in England on the set of the film Wings of the Morning.

Wings of the Morning (1937 film).jpg

The couple had two children, but their marriage was troubled.

Henry Fonda in Warlock.jpg

Above: Henry Fonda

According to Peter Fonda, these difficulties later gave him empathy for the marital problems of actor Dennis Hopper, his co-star in the 1969 film Easy Rider

EasyRider.jpg

Seymour committed suicide by cutting her throat with a razor blade ten days after her 42nd birthday, while she was a patient at Craig House, a sanatorium in Beacon, New York.

Her suicide came three and a half months after Fonda asked her for a divorce.

She is buried in Ogdensburg Cemetery, Ogdensburg, New York.

Abandoned in Beacon

Above: Craig House, Beacon, New York

Gananoque had a population of 5,194 year-round residents in the Canada 2011 census, as well as summer residents sometimes referred to as “Islanders” because of the Thousand Islands, Gananoque’s most important tourist attraction.

The Gananoque River flows through the town and the St. Lawrence River serves as the southern boundary of the town.

InGananoque, Gananoque & the1000 Islands – In Gananoque

The town’s name is an aboriginal name which means “town on two rivers“.

The town’s name rhymes with the place name Cataraqui (Cat-ter-rack-way) which appears in the Cataraqui River, the Little Cataraqui Creek and the Cataraqui Cemetery in nearby Kingston.

One way to remember its pronunciation is “The right way, the wrong way, and the Gananoque” (Gan-nan-nock-way).

In eastern Ontario speech, the town name is often abbreviated to Gan.

King Street, the main street in Gananoque

Above: King Street, the main street of Gananoque

Colonel Joel Stone, who served with Loyalist militia during the American Revolutionary War, established a settlement on this site in 1789.

Land was granted to Colonel Stone for use as a mill site.

Above: A surveyor’s map of Gananoque from 1787

During the War of 1812, American forces raided the government depot in the town to disrupt the flow of British supplies between Kingston and Montréal.

The raiders seized the supplies they found and burned the depot.

Above: With the American garrison at Sackets Harbor running low on supplies and ammunition, Brigadier General Jacob Brown (1775-1828) authorized a raid into Canadian territory.

Raid on Gananoque Historical Marker

Within a month of the raid, construction of the Gananoque Blockhouse was started, with completion in 1813.

It had an octagonal log parapet containing five guns.

The blockhouse was abandoned after the War of 1812 and given to a private landowner.

The blockhouse was quickly repaired in the 1837 – 1838 Patriot War when there were fears American militia forces were planning to attack.

The Gananoque Blockhouse stood until 1852.

War of 1812 > Thousand Islands Life Magazine 219

Gananoque is referred to as the “Gateway to the Thousand Islands” which lie next to it in the St. Lawrence River.

Destination: Gananoque, Ontario - PowerBoating.com

Local attractions include: 

  • boat cruises to the Thousand Islands and Boldt Castle

  • live theatre
Delightful - Review of Royal Theatre Thousand Islands, Gananoque, Canada -  Tripadvisor

  • the summer theatre festival of the Thousand Islands Playhouse
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  • the Arthur Child Heritage Museum of the 1,000 Islands
Gananoque Arthur Child Heritage Museum of the 1000 Islands (2).JPG

  • the OLG Casino. 

OLG Casino 1000.JPG

The Thousand Islands – Frontenac Arch Biosphere Reserve, designated in November 2002, is the 3rd in Ontario, the 12th in Canada, and one of over 400 around the world, as part of UNESCO’s program on Man and the Biosphere.

UNESCO logo English.svg

Notable Gan people:

Harry Brown (1898 – 1917), was a Canadian WWI recipient of the Victoria Cross, the highest and most prestigious award for gallantry in the face of the enemy that can be awarded to British and Commonwealth forces. 

Brown was awarded the Victoria Cross for his actions on 16 August 1917, during the Battle of Hill 70 against the Germans, when Brown and another soldier ran the gauntlet with an “important message“.

Brown sustained mortal injury, and died the following day, 17 August.

His death is commemorated on the Gananoque Cenotaph.

Royal Canadian Legion Br 92, Gananoque, Ontario

On 16 August 2007 a black marble memorial cairn was dedicated to commemorate the action for which he received the Victoria Cross.

A bronze cross pattée bearing the crown of Saint Edward surmounted by a lion with the inscription "for valour". A crimson ribbon is attached

From the London Gazette, Tuesday 16 October 1917:

For most conspicuous bravery, courage and devotion to duty.

After the capture of a position, the enemy massed in force and counter-attacked.

The situation became very critical, all wires being cut.

It was of the utmost importance to get word back to Headquarters.

This soldier and one other were given the message with orders to deliver the same at all costs.

The other messenger was killed.

Private Brown had his arm shattered but continued on through an intense barrage until he arrived at the close support lines and found an officer.

He was so spent that he fell down the dug-out steps, but retained consciousness long enough to hand over his message, saying ‘ Important message.’

He then became unconscious and died in the dressing station a few hours later.

His devotion to duty was of the highest possible degree imaginable, and his successful delivery of the message undoubtedly saved the loss of the position for the time and prevented many casualties.”

Hill 70 - Canadians in captured trenches.jpg

Final stop of my VIA voyage is Kingston.

Kingston (K-town)(Population: 124,000) is a part of both Canada and Canada Slim’s heritage.

Official logo of Kingston

It is on the eastern end of Lake Ontario, at the beginning of the St. Lawrence River and at the mouth of the Cataraqui River (south end of the Rideau Canal).

Kingston City Hall

Above: Kingston City Hall

The city is midway between Toronto and Montréal.

The Thousand Islands tourist region is nearby to the east.

Kingston is nicknamed the “Limestone City” because of the many heritage buildings constructed using local limestone.

The Limestone City — ELocalPost Kingston

Growing European exploration in the 17th century, and the desire for the Europeans to establish a presence close to local Native occupants to control trade, led to the founding of a French trading post and military fort at a site known as “Cataraqui” (generally pronounced “kah-tah-ROCK-way”) in 1673.

This outpost, called Fort Cataraqui, and later Fort Frontenac, became a focus for settlement.

Since 1760, the site of Kingston was in effective a British possession.

Cataraqui would be renamed Kingston after the British took possession of the Fort (renamed Fort Henry) and Loyalists began settling the region in the 1780s.

Flag of Kingston

Above: Flag of Kingston

Kingston was named the first capital of the United Province of Canada (the union of Upper Canada and Lower Canada, renamed Canada West and Canada East) on 10 February 1841.

Above: 1855 map of Northern North America, showing Canada East and Canada West

While its time as a capital city was short (ending in 1844), the community has remained an important military installation.

Above: Fort Henry

The first meeting of the Parliament of Canada on 13 June 1841, was held on the site of what is now the Kingston General Hospital.

Kingston General Hospital.JPG

Above: Kingston General Hospital, former site of the demolished Canadian Parliament Buildings of the Province of Canada

The city was considered too small and lacking in amenities, however, and its location near the border made it vulnerable to American attack.

Consequently, the capital was moved to Montréal in 1844.

Above: The burning of the Parliament Buildings in Montréal, 25 April 1849

It alternated between Québec City and Toronto from 1849 until Ottawa, then a small lumber village known as Bytown, was selected as the permanent capital by Queen Victoria.

Photograph of Queen Victoria, 1882

Above: Queen Victoria (1819 – 1901)

Subsequently, Kingston’s growth slowed considerably and its national importance declined.

Why Kingston has declared a climate emergency — and what that really means

In 1846, with a population of 6,123, Kingston was incorporated as a city, with John Counter as the first mayor.

By that time, there were stone buildings, both residential and commercial.

The market house was particularly noteworthy as “the finest and most substantial building in Canada” which contained many offices, government offices, space for church services, the post office, the City Hall (completed in 1844) and more.

About - Kingston Public Market

Above: Kingston Market House

Five weekly newspapers were being published.

Fort Henry and the marine barracks took up a great deal of space.

Kingston Penitentiary had about 400 inmates.

(The prison opened in 1835, with a structure intended to reform the inmates, not merely to hold or punish them.)

Industry included a steam grist mill, three foundries, two shipbuilders, ship repairers and five wagon makers; tradesmen of many types also worked here.

All freight was shipped by boat or barges and ten steamboats per day were running to and from the town.

Five schools for ladies and two for boys were operating, and the town had four banks.

There were ten chapels and the recently opened Hotel Dieu Hospital was operated by the sisters of the Religious Hospitallers of St. Joseph as a charity.

Hd kingston img 2441.jpg

Both Hotel Dieu and Kingston General Hospital (KGH) cared for victims of the typhus epidemic of 1847.

The KGH site held the remains of 1,400 Irish immigrants who had died in Kingston in fever sheds along the waterfront, during the typhus epidemic of 1847, while fleeing the Great Famine.

They were buried in a common grave.

The remains were re-interred at the city’s St. Mary’s Cemetery in 1966.

THE TYPHUS EPIDEMIC 1847" ~ Kingston - Ontario Provincial Plaques on  Waymarking.com

In 1995, KGH was designated a National Historic Site of Canada, because it is “the oldest public hospital in Canada still in operation with most of its buildings intact and thus effectively illustrates the evolution of health care in Canada in the 19th and 20th centuries“.

Án Gorta Mór | Words on Stone

In 1848, the Kingston Gas Light Company began operation.

Natural Gas - Utilities Kingston

(Gas lamps would be used until 1947.)

40+ Gas Lamp project ideas | gas lamp, lamp, gas

By that time, the town was connected to the outside world by telegraph cables.

The Grand Trunk Railway arrived in Kingston in 1856, providing service to Toronto in the west, and to Montréal in the east.

Its Kingston station was two miles north of downtown.

Kingston became an important rail centre, for both passengers and cargo, due to difficulty travelling by ship through the rapids-and-shoal-filled river.

KINGSTON, Ontario - Hanley Grand Trunk RR Station | Kingston canada,  Canada, Railway station

By 1869, the population had increased to 15,000, and there were four banks.

There were two ship building yards.

Naval Shipyards, York (Upper Canada) - Wikipedia

Kingston was the home of Canada’s first Prime Minister, Sir John A. Macdonald.

Photograph of Macdonald circa 1875 by George Lancefield.

Above: John A. Macdonald (1815 – 1891)

He won his first election to Kingston City Council in 1843 and would later represent the city for nearly 50 years at the national level, both before and after Confederation in 1867.

One of his residences in Kingston, Bellevue House, is now a popular National Historic Site of Canada open to the public, and depicting the house as it would have been in the 1840s when he lived there.

BellevueHouse-Kingston.JPG

He is buried in Kingston’s Cataraqui Cemetery.

In the early hours of 18 April 1840, a dock fire, fanned by high winds, spread to a warehouse containing between 70 and 100 kegs of gunpowder.

The resulting explosion spread the fire throughout the city’s downtown area, destroying a large number of buildings, including the old city hall.

City Hall Chronicles - Tour - City of Kingston

To prevent similar incidents from occurring in future, the city began building with limestone or brick.

This rebuilding phase was referred to as “the Limestone Revolution” and earned the city the nickname “the Limestone City“.

Photo of The Common Market, Kingston | Lake ontario, Kingston ontario,  Canada

The Canadian Locomotive Company was at one time the largest locomotive works in the British Empire and the Davis Tannery was at one time the largest tannery in the British Empire.

About Us -- Kingston Locomotive Works

The tannery operated for a century and was closed in 1973.

Davis Tannery from Kingston, Ontario-Canada where lake and rivers meet  Historical industrial educational and the tourists para… | Tannery, Ontario  canada, Tourist

Other manufacturing companies included: the Marine Railway Company, (which built steamboats), the Victoria Iron Works (which produced iron in bars from scrap), several breweries, a distillery, and two soap and candle manufacturers.

Marine Transportation Safety Investigation Report M17C0179 - Transportation  Safety Board of Canada

(By the start of the 21st century, most heavy industry would leave the city and their former sites would be gradually rehabilitated and redeveloped.)

A telephone system began operation in Kingston in 1881.

At that time the population was 14,091.

Electricity was not available in Kingston until 1888.

Kingston’s economy gradually evolved from an industrial to an institutional base after World War II.

Queen’s University (where Vicki earned her French teacher’s degree) grew from about 2,000 students in the 1940s to its present size of over 28,000 students, more than 90% of whom are from outside the Kingston area.

QueensU Crest.svg

Above: Coat of arms of Queen’s University

The Kingston campus of St. Lawrence College (which I briefly attended / unconnected to SLC in Sainte-Foy I had previously attended) was established in 1969.

The College has 6,700 full-time students.

St Laurence College logo.png

The Royal Military College (RMC) of Canada was founded in 1876, and has about 1,000 students.

Flag of the Royal Military College of Canada.svg

Above: RMC flag

Kingston is a regional health care centre, anchored by Kingston General Hospital and the medical school at Queen’s.

It has also a centre for the Ontario Health Insurance Plan (OHIP) government offices, where Big John used to work.

Ontario seeking regulation change to allow for online health card renewal |  Globalnews.ca

Changes proposed to OHIP coverage - OttawaMatters.com

The city’s economy is also dominated by post-secondary education, military institutions and prison installations.

(K-town is also nicknamed “Prison City“.)

Kingston has the largest concentration of federal correctional facilities in Canada.

The facilities are operated by the Correctional Service of Canada.

Of the nine institutions in the Kingston area, seven are within the city’s municipal boundaries.

  • Kingston Penitentiary (maximum security) (closed 30 September 2013)
The History Girls: KINGSTON PENITENTIARY, by Y S Lee
  • Regional Treatment Centre (multi-level security), co-located within Kingston Penitentiary

  • Joyceville Institution (medium security)
COVID-19 behind bars: Inmates and their families speak out | TVO.org

  • Pittsburgh Institution (minimum security), co-located with Joyceville
Federal penitentiary near Kingston under lockdown after inmate death -  Toronto | Globalnews.ca

  • Collins Bay Institution (medium security)

  • Frontenac Institution (minimum security), co-located with Collins Bay
What prison is really like | TVO.org

  • Millhaven Instution (maximum security) and Bath Institution (medium security), are in the nearby village of Bath.
Two inmates die in eastern Ontario prisons | CP24.com

Until 2000, Canada’s only federal correctional facility for women, the Prison for Women (nicknamed “P4W“) was also in Kingston.

As a result of the report of the Commission of Inquiry into Certain Events at the Prison for Women in Kingston, the facility was closed in 2000.

Queen’s University purchased the property with the intention of renovating it to house the Queen’s Archives, but the interior of the building was awarded a heritage designation, meaning that Queen’s lost the ability to renovate the interior and is considering its options.

P4w-kingston-demolition-march-2008.JPG

In September 2013, after almost 180 years of housing prisoners, Kingston Penitentiary closed.

The maximum security prison was named a National Historic Site of Canada in February 1990 due to its history and reputation.

In its early years, the prison had a vital role in constructing the city.

The prison brought prosperity to Kingston, and along with eight other prisons being built in the area, helped create an impressive local economy.

Kingston Pen 1.JPG

According to Statistics Canada, the tourism industry in Kingston represents a vital part of the city’s economy.

In 2004, over 3,500 jobs were contributed to Kingston’s economy due to the tourism industry.

Statistics Canada logo.svg

The tourism industry has been at a healthy growth rate and has become one of the most performing sectors of Kingston.

Unique opportunities are presented for this industry in this time of shifting travel trends and the baby boomer generation.

The success of Kingston’s tourism industry is heavily dependent on information about travellers.

However, data availability still remains a challenge.

Above: Kingston Tourist Information Centre

Kingston has launched several tourism campaigns, including Downtown Kingston! and Yellow Door.

The city launched a campaign to attract more traffic to downtown Kingston.

The campaign’s mission statement promises “to promote downtown Kingston as the vibrant and healthy commercial, retail, residential, and entertainment centre of our region, attracting more people to live, shop, work and gather“.

New light installations meant to brighten downtown Kingston amid  coronavirus pandemic - Kingston | Globalnews.ca

The downtown area of Kingston is known as the central business district, and is the gathering place for various events, including:

  • the Kingston Buskers Rendezvous
Kingston Buskers (@kingstonbuskers) | Twitter

  • Feb Fest
A preview of Kingston's Feb Fest 2020 | Watch News Videos Online

  • the 1000 Islands Poker Run
2019 1000 Islands Poker Run - Poker Runs America - Kingston, Ontario

  • the Limestone City Blues Festival.

Downtown Kingston! | Limestone City Blues Festival Announces 2017  Headliners!

Alternatively, Yellow Door promotes tourism to the entire city.

The goal of the campaign is to increase the consumer’s exposure to Kingston tourism, while remaining financially reasonable.

A yellow door was used as a metaphor for Kingston – and the good times people have – and used street workers to gather potential tourists from nearby Toronto and Ottawa.

Yellow Door” promotes interest by offering potential tourists a trip to Kingston.

In 2013, Yellow Door received the Tourism Advertising Award of Excellence for the marketing and promotion of an Ontario tourism product.

First Canada Inns Kingston - Posts | Facebook

Trip Advisor users rate the following among the best attractions in and near the city:

  • Canada’s Penitentiary Museum
Canada's Penitentiary Museum – Visit Kingston

  • Fort Henry (Fort Henry National Historic Site)
Element 02– Fort Henry, Kingston - Home

  • Wolfe Island (via ferry)

  • Bellevue House National Historic Site

  • City Hall and the downtown waterfront nearby
Kingston City Hall Photograph by Ken Fuller

Ontario Travel’s recommendations include cruising the Thousand Islands, the Grand Theatre, and Leon’s Centre (an indoor arena).

Kingston hosts several festivals during the year, including:

  • the Kingston Writers Fest
Kingston WritersFest - Main Home Page Kingston WritersFest - September 23 –  27, 2020 at Holiday Inn Kingston Waterfront

  • Limestone City Blues Festival
Limestone City Blues Festival announces 2019 lineup – Kingston News

  • the Kingston Canadian Film Festival
Guide to the 2018 Kingston Canadian Film Festival – Kingston News

  • Artfest
Celebrate Canada 150 at Artfest Kingston! — Artfest Ontario

  • the Kingston Buskers Rendezvous
Downtown Kingston! | Kingston Buskers Rendezvous 2020

  • Kingston Jazz Festival
Kingston Jazz Society – http://kingstonjazz.ca/wp-admin/widgets.php

  • the Reel-out Queer Film Festival
Reelout Queer Film + Video Festival

  • Feb Fest
Kingston Feb Fest 16 x 20 matted Reproduction by Joanne Gervais – Martello  Alley

  • the Wolfe Island Music Festival
Wolfe Island Music Festival Cancels 2016 Edition

  • the Skeleton Park Arts Festival
Skeleton Park Arts Festival — Artfest Ontario

  • Kingston Pride
Home - Kingston Pride

  • the Día de los Muertos Kingston Festival, which occurs annually on the first Sunday of November
First Dia de los Muertos Kingston Festival! | Indiegogo

  • For over four decades the Ukrainian Canadian Club of Kingston has hosted the “Lviv, Ukraine” pavilion as part of the Folklore tradition, holding this popular cultural and folk festival annually on the second full weekend in June at Regiopolis-Notre Dame High School. 
Kingston Ukrainian festival marks 50 years | The Kingston Whig-Standard

(It has been suggested to me that K-town is “San Fran North” because of its large LGBT community, but of this I do not know.)

Above: Flag of the LGBT community

Kingston is home to many artists who work in visual arts, media arts, literature and a growing number who work in other time-based disciplines such as performance art.

The contemporary arts scene in particular has two long standing professional non-profit venues in the downtown area:

  • the Agnes Etherington Art Centre (founded 1957)
Agnes Etherington Art Centre Winter.jpg

  • the Modern Fuel Artist-Run Centre (founded 1977).
Contact Us | Modern Fuel Artist-Run Centre

Local artists often participate in the exhibition programming of each organization, while each also presents the work of artists from across Canada and around the world – in keeping with their educational mandates.

Alternative venues for the presentation of exhibition programs in Kingston include:

  • the Union Gallery (Queen’s University student art gallery)
Union Gallery (@Union_Gallery) | Twitter

  • Verb Gallery
bethany garner: Please join Kingston's PETA GILLYATT BAILEY, LINDA COULTER,  JANET ELLIOTT and JANINE GATES for the Vernissage introducing their first  joint Exhibition, MAKING OUR MARKS at the VERB Gallery, Kingston

  • Open Studio 22
Studio22: Art Gallery for All – Visit Kingston

  • the Kingston Arts Council gallery, the Artel: Arts Accommodations and Venue
The Artel - Home | Facebook

  • the Tett Centre for Creativity and Learning
The Tett Centre | Alumicor

Besides the annual Writers Fest, literary events also happen throughout the year at the Kingston Frontenac Public Library and local bookstores.

Kingston Frontenac Public Library | Information Inspiring Imagination

Writers who are or have been residents of Kingston include:

  • Samuel de Champlain, the French explorer wrote accounts of his travels including his visit to this area (Voyages de la Nouvelle France)
A half-length portrait of a man, set against a background that is a red curtain to the left and a landscape scene to the right. The man has medium-length dark hair, with a goatee and a wide mustache that is crooked up at the ends. He is wearing a white shirt with a wide collar, covered by a darker surcoat. There is also a bright red cape.

Above: Samuel de Champlain (1567 – 1635)

  • Joseph Mermet (an officer with the Swiss Régiment de Watteville at Kingston from 1813 to 1816, he wrote many poems about the War of 1812 and a soldier’s life in Canada)
Association des Mermet] Joseph MERMET, SOLDAT et POETE

  • Julia Beckwith Hart (Canada’s first novelist, she lived in Kingston from 1820 to 1824)(St. Ursula’s Convent)
Mrs Julia Catherine Beckwith (Hart)

Above: Julia Catherine Hart (née Beckwith) (1796 – 1867)

St. Ursula's Convent or the Nun of Canada (Volume 8) (Centre for Editing  Early Canadian Texts): Hart, Julia C.B., Lochhead, Douglas G.:  9780886291402: Amazon.com: Books

  • Charles Sangster (He was the first poet to write poetry which was substantially about Canadian subjects. The Dictionary of Canadian Biography calls him “the best of the pre-Confederation poets.”) (The St. Lawrence and the Saguenay and Other Poems)
Charles Sangster.jpg

Above: Charles Sangster (1822 – 1893)

In the Thousand Islands

On, through the lovely Archipelago

Glides the swift bark. Soft summer matins ring

From every isle. The wild fowl come and go,

Regardless of our presece. On the wing,

And perched upon the bough, the gay birds sing

Their loves: This is their summer paradise;

From morn till night their joyous caroling

Delights the ear, and through the lucent skies

Ascends the choral hymn in softest symphonies.”

Charles Sangster, The St. Lawrence and the Saguenay and Other Poems (1856)

The St. Lawrence and the Saguenay: And Other Poems: Sangster, Charles:  9781286048849: Books - Amazon.ca

  • Adam Hood Burwell (1790 – 1849)(lived in Kingston from 1836 to 1849)(The Poems of Adam Hood Burwell, Pioneer Poet of Upper Canada)

  • John Swete Cummins (1811 – 1862) (lived on nearby Amherst Island in the 1830s/40s)(Altham: A Tale of the Sea)

  • Grant Allen (The Scene of the Crime Festival, an annual festival celebrating Canadian mystery fiction, takes place annually on Wolfe Island, Allen’s birthplace and honors Allen.)(The Woman Who Did)
Portrait of Grant Allen, by Elliott & Fry

Above: Grant Allen (1848 – 1899)

  • Agnes Maule Machar (lifelong resident of Kingston)(Lays of the True North and Other Canadian Poems)
Photo of Agnes Maule Machar (a.k.a. Fidelis) taken from Canadian Singers and Their Songs, compiled by Edward S. Caswell (Toronto: McCleland & Stewart, 1919).

Above: Agnes Maule Machar (aka Fidelis)(1837 – 1927)

Lays of the 'True North': And Other Canadian Poems: Machar, Agnes Maule:  9780649627325: Amazon.com: Books

  • Evan MacColl (1808 – 1898) (lived in Kingston from 1850 – 1898)(was a Scots-Canadian Gaelic poet who also produced poems in English. He is commonly known in his native language as Bàrd Loch Fìne (the “Poet of Loch Fyne“). Later he became known as “the Gaelic Bard of Canada“) (Poems and Songs Chiefly Written in Canada)

Scottish Poets in America -MacColl, Evan

  • Isabella Valancy Crawford (lived in a country inn north of Kingston during the winter of 1861 – 1862) (She was one of the first Canadians to make a living as a freelance writer. Crawford is increasingly being viewed as Canada’s first major poet. She is the author of “Malcolm’s Katie“, a poem that has achieved “a central place in the canon of 19th-century Canadian poetry“.)(Old Spookses’ Pass, Malcolm’s Katie, and Other Poems)
Isabella Valancy Crawford.jpg

Above: Isabella Valancy Crawford (1846 – 1887)

File:Oldspooksespass.jpg - Wikipedia

Isabella Valancy Crawford - Wikiwand

  • Charles Mair (studied at Queen’s University)(Dreamland and Other Poemsdemonstrates a conventional colonial approach to poetry. Such poems as ‘August‘ succeed in their attention to natural detail: descriptions of the blueflies, the milkmaids, and the ‘ribby-lean‘ cattle in parched fields, but too often he wrote not of the timberlands he knew but of a dreamland weakly modelled upon the romantic flights of Keats. The 33 poems constitute the first attempt to deal with Canadian nature.“) (Tecumseh, “a major contribution to our 19th-century literary heritage, wherein the War of 1812 is the central event of Canadian history. Among the many literary treatments of this war, Tecumseh stands as the most accomplished.”)(He had a vision of Canada as “a co-operative enterprise in contrast with the self-seeking individualism of the United States.“)
CharlesMair.jpg

Above: Charles Mair (1838 – 1927)

Dreamland and other poems [and] Tecumseh, a drama (Literature of Canada:  poetry and prose in reprint): Mair, Charles: 9780802062031: Amazon.com:  Books

  • George Monro Grant (1835 – 1902) (principal of Queen’s: 1877 – 1902)(Grant traveled across Canada, from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean, with the engineers, including lifelong friend, Sir Sandford Fleming, who surveyed the route of the Canadian Pacific Railway. Grant’s book Ocean to Ocean (1873) was one of the first things that opened the eyes of Canadians to the value of the immense heritage they enjoyed.)
DENT(1881) 2.617 REV. G.M. GRANT, PRINCIPAL OF THE QUEEN'S COLLEGE, KINGSTON.jpg

Ocean to Ocean: Sandford Fleming's Expedition Through Canada in 1872 by George  Monro Grant

  • George Frederick Cameron (1854 – 1885)(lived in Kingston: 1882 – 1885)(Leo, the Royal Cadet)

  • Eric Nicol (1919 – 2011)(born in Kingston)(The Roving I / Shall We Join the Ladies? / Girdle Me a Globe)
Eric Nicol, 1965 - Vancouver Is Awesome

Above: Eric Nicol

Review: The Roving I by Eric Nicol | Leaves & Pages

  • Robertson Davies (lived in Kingston from 1927 to 1935)(Salterton trilogy – Tempest-tost / Leaven of Malice / A Mixture of Frailities – based on Kingston)
Canadian writer Robertson Davies, author of The Deptford Trilogy which included the famous book, Fifth Business

Above: Robertson Davies (1913 – 1995)

The Salterton Trilogy is comprised of the novels Tempest-Tost, Leaven of  Malice, and A Mixture of Frailties, Robertson Davies' first forays into  fiction … | Trilogy

  • Matt Cohen (1942 – 1999)(part of childhood in Kingston)(Emotional Arithmetic / Elizabeth and After / The Sweet Second Summer of Kitty Malone)
Final book of his series on the fictional town of Salem is completed and  Toronto writer Matt Cohen is preparing to write book about a Jewish doctor  in 14th century Europe. :

Above: Matt Cohen

Emotional arithmetic.jpg

  • Pierre Berton (taught at the RMC during WW2)(The National Dream / The Last Spike / The Invasion of Canada / Flames Across the Border / Niagara / The Arctic Grail / The Dionne Years / Vimy / Drifting Home / The Mysterious North / Why We Act Like Canadians)
Berton and Ruby in their later years at Kleinburg, Ontario

Above: Pierre Berton (1920 – 2004) and Ruby the cat

The Joy of Writing: A Guide for Writers, Disguised as a Literary Memoir:  Berton, Pierre: 9780385659970: Amazon.com: Books

  • Timothy Findley (The Last of the Crazy People / The Wars)
Timothy findley.jpg

Above: Timothy Findley (aka Tiff)(1930 – 2002)

TheWars.jpg

JourneymanFindley.jpg
  • When we have stopped killing animals as though they were so much refuse, we will stop killing one another. But the highways show our indifference to death, so long as it is someone else’s. It is an attitude of the human mind I do not grasp. I have no point of connection with it. People drive in such a way that you think they do not believe in death. Their own lives are their business, but my life is not their business. I cannot refrain from terrific anger when I am threatened so casually by strangers on a public road.” – from 1965 journal, at p. 16 of Journeyman
  • “A myth is not a lie, as such, but only the truth in size twelve shoes. Its gestures are wider–its voice is projected farther–its face has bolder features than reality would dare contrive.” – Journeyman

  • Watson Kirkconnell (1895 – 1977)(MA Queen’s, 1916)(The Flying Bull and Other Tales)
General Draža Mihailovich: "Draza dies a Martyr" by Watson Kirkconnell

Above: Watson Kirkconnell

The Flying Bull and Other Tales: Watson Kirkconnell: Amazon.com: Books

  • B.K. (Bernard Keble) Sandwell (head of Queen’s English dept: 1923 – 1925)(The Privacity Agent and Other Modest Proposals)
B. K. Sandwell.jpg

Above: B.K. Sandwell (1876 – 1954)

The Privacity Agent & Other Modest Proposals: Sandwell, B. K., Arthur  Lismer: Books - Amazon.ca

  • Wilfred Eggleston (1901 – 1986)(Queen’s student)(The High Plains)
While I Still Remember; a Personal Record: Eggleston, Wilfrid: Amazon.com:  Books

  • E.J. Pratt (“the foremost Canadian poet of the first half of the 20th century“)(taught at Queen’s in summers of 1930 to 1952)(Newfoundland Verse)
Pratt in 1944

Above: E.J. (Edwin John) Pratt (1882 – 1964)

QUOTES BY E. J. PRATT | A-Z Quotes

  • Edward McCourt (1907 – 1972)(taught English at Queen’s: 1938 – 1939)(Music at the Close)
Music at the Close by Edward McCourt

The Road Across Canada: Edward McCourt, John A. Hall: Amazon.com: Books

  • Elizabeth Brewster (1922 – 2012)(educated at Queen’s, wrote her first two books in Kingston: East Coast / Lillooet)
Obituary: Elizabeth Brewster's journey of self-awareness led to prolific  poetry career - The Globe and Mail

Above: Elizabeth Brewster

East Coast by Elizabeth Brewster

Lillooet by Elizabeth Brewster

  • D.G. Jones (1929 – 2016)(MA Queen’s, 1954) (Under the Thunder the Flowers Light up the Earth)
The Essential D.G. Jones edited by Jim Johnstoneby Bruce Whiteman - CNQ

  • George Whalley (1915 – 1983)(taught at Queen’s: 1950 – 1980)(No Man an Island / The Legend of John Hornby)
The Complete Poems of George Whalley: Amazon.co.uk: George Whalley:  9780773548039: Books

  • Michael Ondaatje (MA Queen’s, 1967)(The English Patient)
Ondaatje speaking at Tulane University, 2010

Above: Michael Ondaatje

Englishpatient.jpg

  • Douglas LePan (1914 – 1998)(taught at Queen’s: 1959 – 1964)(The Net and the Sword / The Deserter)
John Simon Guggenheim Foundation | Douglas LePan

Above: Douglas LePan

The Deserter (Voyageur Classics (31)): LePan, Douglas, Gnarowski, Michael,  Rayter, Scott: 9781459743267: Amazon.com: Books

  • Joan Finnigan (lived in Kingston: 1964 – 2007)(The Best Damn Fiddler from Calabogie to Kaladar)

Above: Joan Finnigan (1925 – 2007)

The Best Damn Fiddler from Calabogie to Kaladar by Peter Pearson - NFB

  • George Herbert Clarke (chairman Queen’s: 1925 – 1943)(Wayfaring)
Wayfarings (Classic Reprint): Clarke, George Herbert: 9781330862452:  Amazon.com: Books

  • Gérard Bessette (lived, taught and wrote in Kingston: 1958 – 2005)(Le Libraire English: Not for Every Eye)

Above: Gérard Bessette (1920 – 2005)

Le libraire par Gérard Bessette | Littérature | Roman québécois |  Leslibraires.ca

  • Adrien Thério (taught at RMC in late 60s)(Le Printemps qui pleure)
Adrien Thério Archives - Lux Éditeur

Above: Adrien Thério

Le printemps qui pleure par Thério, Adrien: Satisfaisant Couverture souple  (1962) | Livresse

  • David Helwig (1938 – 2018)(His Kingston novels: The Glass KnightJennifer /  A Sound Like Laughter / It’s Always Summer)
The Walrus Talks - Charlottetown - David Helwig - YouTube

Glass Knight: Amazon.co.uk: Helwig, David: 9780887501852: Books

  • Janette Turner Hospital (MA Queen’s, 1973) (The Ivory Swing)
Janette Turner Hospital's dark matter

Above: Janet Hospital (née Turner)

Janette Turner Hospital - The Ivory Swing

  • Tom Marshall (1938 – 1993)(taught at Queen’s: 1964 – 1993)
Tom Marshall page on davidhelwig.com

  • Douglas Barbour (PhD Queen’s, 1976)(A Poem as Long as a Highway)
Douglas Barbour: Bio

Above: Douglas Barbour

Case 11: “An age of poets and a place of poets”: Quarry Press – 125 Years  of Canadian Literature at Queen's University

  • Lorne Pierce (1890 – 1961)(educated at Queen’s / his collection housed here)(A Canadian Nation)
Amazon.com: Both Hands: A Life of Lorne Pierce of Ryerson Press (BIO002000)  eBook: Campbell, Sandra: Kindle Store

A Canadian Nation By Lorne Pierce Designed by Thoreau | Etsy

  • Steven Heighton (BA/MA Queen’s)(Afterlands)
Steven Heighton at the Eden Mills Writers' Festival in 2017

Above: Steven Heighton

Afterlands: Amazon.co.uk: Heighton, Steven: 9780618773411: Books

  • Bronwen Wallace (1945 – 1989)(BA/MA Queen’s)(in Kingston: 1977 – 1989)(People You’d Trust Your Life To)
The Poet Whose Work Helped Set the Stage for #MeToo | The Walrus

People You'd Trust Your Life To : Stories by Bronwen Wallace

  • Helen Humphreys (lives in Kingston)(The River)
Helen Humphreys at the Eden Mills Writers' Festival in 2016

Above. Helen Humphreys

Helen Humphreys Quote: “The heart is a river. The act of writing is the  moving water that holds the banks apart, keeps the muscle of words  flexi...” (7 wallpapers) - Quotefancy

  • Diane Schoemperlen (lives in Kingston) (Forms of Devotion)
We assumed his crime couldn't have been anything too violent' | TVO.org

Above: Diane Schoeperlen

Forms Of Devotion: Amazon.ca: Schoemperlen, Diane: Books

  • Michael Crummey (MA Queen’s, 1988)(Galore)
Author Michael Crummey poses with a copy of his book, Galore, at a fundraiser for the Writers' Trust of Canada

  • Mark Sinnett (lives in Kingston)(The Carnivore)
MACHINESFORLIVINGIN

Above: Mark Sinnett

Kingston WritersFest - Mark Sinnett | Kingston WritersFest - September 23 –  27, 2020 at Holiday Inn Kingston Waterfront

  • Mary Alice Downie (née Hunter)(lives in Kingston)(Bright Paddles)
Mary Alice Downie | Young Kingston

Above: Mary Alice Downie

Amazon.com: Bright Paddles (First Flight Level 4) (9781550415162): Downie,  Mary: Books

  • Wayne Grady (Emancipation Day)
Interview with Wayne Grady, author of Emancipation Day

Above: Wayne Grady

Emancipation Day: Grady, Wayne: 9780385677684: Amazon.com: Books

  • Merilyn Simonds (lives in Kingston)(Breakfast at the Exit Café)
Merilyn Simonds (@MerilynSimonds) | Twitter

Above: Merilyn Simonds

Breakfast at the Exit Cafe: Travels Through America: Grady, Wayne, Simonds,  Merilyn: 9781553658269: Amazon.com: Books

  • Jamie Swift (lectures at Queen’s)(The Big Nickel)
Jamie Swift – Between the Lines

Above: Jamie Swift

The Big Nickel – Between the Lines

  • Carolyn Smart (lives in Kingston)(Pith and Wry)
C. Smart | Department of English

Above: Carolyn Smart

Amazon.com: Pith & Wry: Canadian Poetry (9781896350417): McMaster, Susan:  Books

  • Michael Andre (Studying the Ground for Holes)
Canadian poet/editor Michael Andre talks about the poetry, music, Beats,  John Cage, and Unmuzzled OX – Blues.Gr

Above: Michael Andre

Studying the Ground for Holes: ANDRE, Michael: 9780913722138: Amazon.com:  Books

  • Christopher McCreery (Kingstonian)(The Order of Canada)

Above: Christopher McCreery

The Order of Canada: Its Origins, History, and Developments (Heritage):  McCreery, Christopher: 9780802039408: Amazon.com: Books

  • Annie Rothwell (1837 – 1927) (lived in Kingston) (Loved I Not Honour More!)
Annie Rothwell, c. 1893.

Above: Annie Rothwell

Loved I not honour more!" [microform] : Rothwell, Annie : Free Download,  Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

  • Judith Thompson (lived in Kingston)(Lost and Delirious)
Judith Thompson | The Canadian Encyclopedia

Above: Judy Thompson

Lost and Delirious poster.jpg

(V. is always suggesting that I move back and retire in Canada, and I must admit the notion of spending my golden age years in Dawson City in the winter and Kingston in the summer does have its appeal.

To spend entire summers simply reading the literary output that Kingston has produced would be happy summers indeed.)

Above: Dawson City, Yukon

Music and theatre venues include:

  • the Isabel Bader Centre for the Performing Arts
Isabel Bader Centre for the Performing Arts — N45 Architecture

  • the Grand Theatre
The exterior of the Grand Theatre - Picture of The Grand Theatre, Kingston  - Tripadvisor

  • the Wellington Street Theatre, which hosts performances from international, national, and local groups
File:Kingston The Wellington Street Theatre (2).jpg - Wikimedia Commons

  • the Kingston Symphony performs at The Grand Theatre, as do several amateur and semi-professional theatre groups
Orchestra Kingston – Kingston, Ontario, Canada | Kingston's community  orchestra

  • the Leon’s Centre is a 5,800-seat entertainment venue and ice rink, opened in February 2008.
City Offers Community Organizations Use of Leon's Centre Suite

The city has spawned several musicians and musical groups, most of whom are known mainly within Canada, but a few of whom have achieved international success.

These include: 

  • the Tragically Hip, including singer Gord Downie (1964 – 2017)
File:The Tragically Hip EP.bmp

  • Steppenwolf frontman John Kay
SteppenwolfAlbum.jpg

  •  the Glorious Sons
Union - The Glorious Sons.jpg

  • the Mahones
The Mahones - Draggin' The Days (1994, CD) | Discogs

  • jazz singer Andy Poole
Andy Poole | Discography | Discogs

Above: Andy Poole

  • Bedouin Soundclash
SoundingAMosaicAlbumCover.jpg

  • Sarah Harmer
Sarah Harmer at the 2010 Vancouver International Folk Music Festival

Above: Sarah Harmer

  • the Arrogant Worms 
Arrogant Worms self-titled.jpg

  • the Headstones 
Headstones - Picture of health.jpg

  • the Inbreds
Mike O'Neill and Dave Ullrich

  • the Meringues
The Meringues (@TheMeringues) | Twitter

  • PS I Love You
PS I Love You - For Those Who Stay Remix EP - Boomkat

  • members of Moist, including singer David Usher
Moist Silver.jpg

  • Gordon Monahan
Speaker Swinging / Piano Mechanics by Gordon Monahan on Amazon Music -  Amazon.com

  • Marjan Mozetich
Canadian Bands You Should Know: Marjan Mozetich and the greatest song  you've never heard | Amplify

  • John Robertson

JohnRobertson20150711205505!Band.jpg

Above: John Robertson

Kingston is also the birthplace of Bryan Adams.

Adams performing in Hamburg, 2007

Above: Bryan Adams

The first winner of the television series Canadian Idol was Kingston native Ryan Malcolm.

Canadian Idol logo.svg

Zal Yanovsky of the Lovin’ Spoonful lived in Kingston until his death in 2002.

Do you believe in magic.jpg

Comedian and actor Dan Aykroyd has a residence just north of Kingston and is a frequent face in town.

Dan Aykroyd cropped.jpg

Above: Dan Aykroyd

He was briefly a minor partner in a restaurant called Aykroyd’s Ghetto House Café on Upper Princess Street during the 1990s which prominently featured a Blues Brothers‘ police car projecting out from the second storey wall.

Facebook

Kingston is the site of two universities, Queen’s University and the Royal Military College of Canada, and a community college, St. Lawrence College.

According to Statistics Canada, Kingston has the most PhD holders per capita of any city in Canada.

Kingston, Ontario - Intelligent Community Forum

Kingston lays claim to being the birthplace of  ice hockey, though this is contested.

Support for this is found in a journal entry of a British Army officer in Kingston in 1843.

He wrote: 

Began to skate this year, improved quickly and had great fun at hockey on the ice.

Cartoon drawing of hockey game and people falling through the ice

Kingston is also home to the oldest continuing hockey rivalry in the world by virtue of a game played in 1886 on the frozen Kingston harbour between Queen’s University and the Royal Military College of Canada.

To mark this event, the city hosts an annual game between the two institutions, played on a cleared patch of frozen lake with both teams wearing period-correct uniforms and using rules from that era.

The two schools also contest the annual Carr-Harris Cup under modern competitive conditions to commemorate and continue their rivalry.

The Carr-Harris Cup: Hockey's Oldest Rivalry – Visit Kingston

The Memorial Cup, which serves as the annual championship event for the Canadian Hockey League, began in 1919 on the initiative of Kingstonian James T. Sutherland.

The first championship was held in Kingston.

Memorial Cup at the 2015 championship.jpg

Above: The Memorial Cup

Sutherland, a member of the Hockey Hall of Fame, also helped establish the annual exhibition game between the Royal Military College of Canada and the United States Military Academy (West Point) in 1923.

Black and white photo of Sutherland

Above. James T. Sutherland (1870 – 1955)

Kingston is represented in the Ontario Hockey League (OHL) by the Kingston Frontenacs.

Kingston Frontenacs Logo.png

Above: Logo for the Kingston Frontenacs

The International Hockey Hall of Fame was established in September 1943 with a building constructed in 1965.

The original building was near the Kingston Memorial Centre (which was opened in 1950), but has since been relocated to Kingston’s west end at the Invista Centre.

The International Hockey Hall of Fame, founded by the National Hockey League (NHL) and the Canadian Amateur Hockey Association (CAHA), is the oldest sports hall of fame in Canada.

IHHOF 60th logo.png

The museum’s collection is home to various items that pay homage to Kingston’s role in the history of hockey in Canada.

These include:

  • the original square hockey puck from the first Queens University vs. the Royal Military College of Canada (RMC) game in 1886
RARE REPLICA PUCK QUEEN'S UNIVERSITY AND ROYAL MILITARY COLLEGE H.O.F. 1886  | eBay

  • hockey’s oldest sweater worn by a Queen’s student in 1894
Third String Goalie: The Oldest Hockey Sweater in the World - 1894 Queen's  University Guy Curtis Jersey

  • Canada’s first Olympic gold medal from 1924, among others.

Canada history: Jan 25, 1924- Hockey gold at the first “Winter Games” – RCI  | English

The city is known for its fresh-water sailing and hosted the sailing events for the 1976 Summer Olympics.

1976 Summer Olympics logo.svg

CORK – the Canadian Olympic-training Regatta, Kingston – – now hosted by CORK/Sail Kingston Inc. is still held every August.

CORK's 50th | CORK

Since 1972, Kingston has hosted more than 40 World and Olympic sailing championships.

Kingston is listed by a panel of experts among the best yacht racing venues in the US, even though Kingston is in Canada.

Kingston sits amid excellent cruising and boating territory, with easy access to Lake Ontario, the St. Lawrence River, and the Thousand Islands including the St. Lawrence Islands National Park. 

Military Relocation Services | Ontario canada travel, Kingston ontario,  Canada travel

Kingston is also home to the youth sail training ship, St. Lawrence II

During the summers, the RMC campus in Kingston plays host to a Royal Canadian Sea Cadets camp called HMCS Ontario, which provides sail training along with much other training to youth from across Canada.

The Kingston Yacht Club in downtown Kingston has a learn-to-sail program for both children and adults.

Photo of SV St Lawrence II.jpeg

Above: St. Lawrence II

Kingston is known for freshwater wreck diving. 

Kingston’s shipwrecks are well preserved by its cool fresh water, and the recent zebra mussel invasion has caused a dramatic improvement in water clarity that has enhanced the quality of diving in the area.

SceneOnLakeOntario1812.jpg

Other noteworthy personalities of Kingston besides the abovementioned:

Don Cherry (born in Kingston) is a Canadian ice hockey commentator.

He is also a sports writer, as well as a retired professional hockey player and NHL coach.

Don Cherry in 2010.jpg

Above: Don Cherry

Cherry played one game with the Boston Bruins and later coached the team for five seasons after concluding a successful playing career in the American Hockey league (AHL).

From 1986 to 2019, Cherry co-hosted Coach’s Corner — a segment aired during CBC’s Saturday-night NHL broadcast Hockey Night in Canada, with Ron MacLean.

Coach's Corner (@fxcoachscorner) | Twitter

Nicknamed Grapes, Cherry is known for his outspoken manner and opinions, and his flamboyant dress.

In the background is a logo with the word "Coach's" above "Corner". Below that is a small advertisement, partially obscured by two men in the foreground who are visible from the waist up. The man on the right is clean-shaven, wearing a dark suit with white shirt and checkered tie to which is affixed a small microphone near the knot. The man on the right has a goatee of white hair and is wearing a white suit with red splatters, most prominent on his right side than on the left or sleeves. He has his hands clasped before him with palms facing downward

Above: Cherry (in his blood spray suit) and MacLean, 22 April 2017

By the 2018 – 2019 NHL season, Cherry and MacLean had hosted Coach’s Corner for 33 seasons.

From 1984 to 2019, Cherry also hosted Grapeline, a short-form radio segment with fellow sportscaster Brian Williams, and also created the video series Rock’em Sock’em Hockey.

Don Cherry's Rock'Em Sock'em Hockey - Alchetron, the free social  encyclopedia

In 2004, Cherry was voted by viewers as the 7th greatest Canadian of all-time in the CBC miniseries The Greatest Canadian.

TV the greatest canadian logo.jpg

In March 2010, his life was dramatized in a two-part CBC movie, Keep Your Head Up, Kid: The Don Cherry Story, based on a script written by his son, Timothy Cherry.

Movie Review: Keep Your Head Up, Kid: The Don Cherry Story - Puck Junk

In March 2012, CBC aired a sequel, The Wrath of Grapes: The Don Cherry Story II.

Amazon.com: The Wrath Of Grapes: The Don Cherry Story 2: Jared Keeso, Sarah  Manninen, Tyler Johnston, Stephen McHattie, Rory O'Shea, Jeff Woolnough:  Movies & TV

Cherry has sometimes proven controversial for making political comments during Coach’s Corner, having faced criticism for remarks regarding Canada’s lack of support for the 2003 invasion of Iraq, insinuating that only “Europeans and French guys” wore visors on their helmets, and denying climate change.

U.S. Marines with Iraqi POWs - March 21, 2003.jpg

In November 2019, Cherry was fired by Sportsnet from Hockey Night in Canada for comments that suggested Canadian immigrants benefit from the sacrifices of veterans but do not wear Remembrance Day poppies.

HNIC Logo.svg

Of all things Canadian, Céline Dion, Justin Bieber and Don Cherry I do not miss.

Celine Dion Live 2017.jpg

Above: Céline Dion

Justin Bieber at the 2015 MTV EMAs.jpg

Above: Justin Bieber

If Donald Trump were a Canadian ice hockey commentator, he would resemble Don Cherry.

I don’t like Donald Trump.

File:Donald Trump official portrait.jpg

Trump and Cherry come across as bullies to everyone around them and whose recipe of success seems to reflect the way Stephen Fry portrayed the Duke of Wellington in the Blackadder the Third series:

Blackadder the Third.jpg

Blackadder (Rowan Atkinson): Do you ever stop bullying and shouting at the lower orders?

Wellington (Stephan Fry): NEVER! THERE’S ONLY ONE WAY TO WIN A CAMPAIGN! SHOUT, SHOUT AND SHOUT AGAIN!

Blackadder: You don’t think inspired leadership and tactical planning has anything to do with it?

Wellington: NO! IT’S ALL DOWN TO SHOUTING!

Blackadder S03E06 - Duel And Duality - video dailymotion

John B. Frizzell (born in Kingston) is a Canadian screenwriter and film producer.

After several years writing, directing and co-producing the documentary series A Different Understanding for TV Ontario, Frizzell co-founded the Canadian production company Rhombus Media.

He left Rhombus in the mid-80s to pursue a career in writing.

John B. Frizzell Ink - Posts | Facebook

Above: John B. Frizzel

His credits include:

  • the television series: Airwaves, The Rez, Twitch City, Angela Anaconda and Material World
The Rez TV series official cover.jpg

Twitch City cover.jpg

Angela Anaconda Logo.png

  • the films: A Winter Tan, Getting Married in Buffalo Jump, Life with Billy, Dance Me Outside, On My Own and Lapse of Memory
A Winter Tan VideoCover.jpg

Getting Married in Buffalo Jump - Alchetron, the free social encyclopedia

Dance Me Outside (1994) - Bruce McDonald, David Webb | Cast and Crew |  AllMovie

John Frizzell - IMDb

He was co-winner of a Writers Guild of Canada Award for Lucky Girl.

Lucky Girl TV AKA My Daughter s Secret Life.jpg

Flora MacDonald, (1926 – 2015) was a Canadian politician and humanitarian.

Canada’s first female foreign minister, she was also one of the first women to vie for leadership of a major Canadian political party, the Progressive Conservatives.

She became a close ally of Prime Minister Joe Clark, serving in his cabinet from 1979 to 1980, as well as in the cabinet of Prime Minister Brian Mulroney from 1984 to 1988.

In her later life, she was known for her humanitarian work abroad.

The City of Ottawa recognised MacDonald on 11 July 2018 by naming a new bicycle and footbridge (opening 2019) over the Rideau Canal the Passerelle Flora Footbridge.

Flora MacDonald in 1987

Above: Flora MacDonald

Bruce McDonald (born in Kingston) is a Canadian film and television director, writer and producer.

Bruce McDonald @ Toronto International Film Festival 2010.jpg

Above: Bruce McDonald

He is known for his award-winning cult films Roadkill (1989) and Hard Core Logo (1996).

He was part of a loosely-affiliated group of filmmakers to emerge from Toronto known as the Toronto New Wave.

Roadkill (1989 film).jpg

Hard Core Logo (movie poster).jpg

Ari Millen (born in Kingston) is a Canadian actor.

He is best known for his performance as numerous clones in the Space and BBC America science fiction television series Orphan Black (2014–2017), for which he won a Canadian Screen Award in 2016.

Ari Millen at Nerd-HQ 2015.jpg

Above: Ari Millen

Jessamyn Waldman Rodriguez (born in Kingston) is a Canadian-American social entrepreneur.

She is the founder and served as the Chief Executive Officer of Hot Bread Kitchen, a social enterprise bakery in East Harlem, New York City that trains low-income and immigrant women in culinary and professional skills.

The project has spun off HBK Incubates, a culinary incubator and support service for small culinary entrepreneurs.

Rodriguez was named to Fortune magazine’s 2015 list of the 20 Most Innovative Women in Food and Drink.

She is the author of The Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook: Artisanal Baking from Around the World, a bread-making book for home bakers.

Jessamyn Rodriguez, Living City, Living Wage.jpg

Above: Jessaym Rodriguez

Patricia Rozema (born in Kingston) is a Canadian film director, writer and producer.

She was part of a loosely-affiliated group of filmmakers to emerge in 1980s from Toronto known as the Toronto New Wave. 

Patricia Rozema at the Televisionaries CFC Annual Gala & Auction (16450243841).jpg

Above: Patricia Rozema

After a brief stint as a print and then television journalist (CBC Television’s The Journal), Rozema directed her first feature, I’ve Heard the Mermaids Singing (1987), a serious comedy starring Sheila McCarthy about a loner named Polly who is an art gallery secretary and aspiring photographer.

At the 1987 Cannes Film Festival, I’ve Heard the Mermaids Singing won the Prix de la Jeunesse.

In 1993, the Toronto International Film Festival ranked it #9 in the Top 10 Canadian Films of All Time, with Rozema becoming the first female director to have a film on the list.

The film did not appear on the updated 2004 version.

Cover art of the DVD version of the film I've Heard the Mermaids Singing

Rozema also directed the Six Gestures, which combined images of Yo-Yo Ma performing with skating sequences by Jane Torvill and Christopher Dean, interwoven with J.S. Bach’s first-person narrative. 

Six Gestures was nominated for a Grammy and won an Emmy Award for Outstanding Classical Music-Dance Program, as well as a Golden Rose, the top television award in Europe.

Amazon.com: Bach Cello Suite #6: Six Gestures: Christopher Dean, Yo-Yo Ma,  Tom McCamus, Jayne Torvill, Tamasaburô Bandô, André Pienaar, Joost  Dankelman, Niv Fichman, Patricia Rozema, David New, Niv Fichman, Richard  Kipnis: Movies

She then directed the romance film When Night Is Falling in 1995 starring Pascale Bussières and Rachael Crawford, and featuring Don McKellar and Tracy Wright.

When Night Is Falling poster.jpg

Rozema’s next two feature films were made outside Canada: 

  • Mansfield Park (1999) is a revisionist adaptation of Jane Austen’s novel of the same name.
Mansfield park.jpg

  • Happy Days (2000), an Irish production, is a film version of  Samuel Beckett’s humorously despairing play in which a woman lives partially buried in a mound of sand.
4K Online High Resolution (Patricia Rozema) Happy Days 93 | monscromefosim

She later directed and ghost-wrote Kit Ketteridge: An American Girl (2008), which was based on the American Girl book series.

The film earned Rozema a Director’s Guild of Canada Award nomination for Best Director.

Kitposter.jpg

Rozema’s television credits include the pilot and two subsequent episodes of the HBO series Tell Me You Love Me (2008), an episode of the HBO series In Treatment (2010), and episodes of the Canadian television sitcom Michael, Tuesdays and Thursdays, which premiered on CBC Television in fall 2011.

Tell Me You Love Me (TV Series) (2007) - Filmaffinity

IT logo.jpg

michael: every day (2011) – Jonathan Goldsmith: Composer

She most recently worked as a director on the Amazon series Mozart in the Jungle

Mozart in the Jungle logo.png

Rozema and co-writer Michael Suscy received an Emmy Award nomination (Outstanding Writing for a Miniseries, Movie or a Dramatic Special), a Writers Guild of America Award nomination (Long Form – Original) and a PEN USA Award nomination in Screenplay for the HBO movie Grey Gardens (2009).

Her feature film Into the Forest, starring Ellen Page and Evan Rachel Wood, premiered at the Toronto International Film Festival TIFF) in September 2015.

Into the Forest - film poster.jpg

Her most recent feature, Mouthpiece (2018), premiering at TIFF, is an adaptation of a two-woman play created and performed by North Sadava and Amy Nostbakken, who also star in the film.

Sadava and Nostbakken play dual versions of the same female protagonist, who struggles to find her voice while writing her mother’s eulogy.

A profile of Rozema in the Globe & Mail called it “her most directly political film” and added that “it also may be her most heartfelt and emotionally mature.”

In 2017, Rozema founded her own production company, Crucial Things, to co-produce Mouthpiece.

Mouthpiece, 2018, 91 minutes, a film by Patricia Rozema - Canada FBM2020

Polly Shannon (born in Kingston) is a Canadian actress, best known for her portrayal of Margaret Trudeau in the 2002 miniseries Trudeau, a film about the late Prime Minister of Canada Pierre Trudeau.

Polly Shannon.jpg

Above: Polly Shannon

I think of my own history with K-Town, visiting the Family S, staying at the Kingston YHA where I met my first European girlfriend (Geralda from Utrecht), sleeping aboard the Alexander Henry ship, working at Giant Tiger, eating spaghetti with butter on Princess Street, exchanging pleasantries with street person “Coca Cola Jack“, the temp job as a door-to-door magazine salesman, working with Queen V at the Ambassador Hotel….

Ah, memories!

West of K-Town the train stops and I get off.

Kingston Station ON CLIP.jpg

I am greeted by Big J, Queen V, the Amazing A and Super S.

The Napanee Sadness is about to begin….

(To be continued….)

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Lonely Planet Canada / Rough Guide to Canada / Harold S. Kushner, When Bad Things Happen to Good People / Albert and Theresa Moritz, The Oxford Illustrated Literary Guide to Canada / Jenny Pinkerton, “Cross-Canada walker may find wife, write book“, Smiths Falls Record News, 26 July 1989 / Robert W. Service, Songs of a Sourdough

Canada Slim and the Sound of Silence

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Monday 17 August 2020

Every day is a rare and precious thing and time and health are dwindling resources that too many people take for granted.

I try to be consequent and record each and every day, either in my daily journal or as part of my Facebook posts, but even then the memory is still the determining factor as to what ends up in my blogs and what never sees the light of day.

 

 

 

 

On 13 July and 11 August 2020 I began telling of my adventures and discoveries getting to and travelling about the Flims region in Canton Graubünden.

(Please see Canada Slim and the Love of Landscape and Canada Slim and the Castle of Happiness of this blog.)

 

 

Flims Dorf under "Flimserstein"

Above: Flims Dorf

 

 

With all that has happened in my life since the 2020 Swiss Lockdown ended – the aforementioned Flims trip, travels and hiking in Canton Valais, the departure from Starbucks, the search for new employment, and the neverending cycle of events that happen around me and around the world, sometimes events slip from my memory that deserve more attention.

I am referring to walks I have done, sometimes solo, sometimes accompanied by my wife, within the region referred to as the Bodensee Süd (southern Lake Constance), which includes Thurgau Canton (where I live), St. Gallen Canton (where I work), Appenzellerland (next door to St. Gallen Canton and the Austrian State of Vorarlberg (bordering on Cantons St. Gallen and Graubünden, the Principality of Liechtenstein and the German States of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria).

 

 

Bergverlag Rother – Bodensee Süd

 

 

Somehow a walk I accomplished prior to 28 May 2020, though only day trips, slipped my memory.

I believe that this two walk – done on 24 May  – is worth recording here as it offers a glimpse of what life is like here in Switzerland.

 

 

Flag of Switzerland

 

 

Sunday 24 May 2020, Diepoldsau, Canton St. Gallen

The Rhine (Latin: Rhenus, Romansh: Rein, German: Rhein, French: Rhin, Italian: Reno, Dutch: Rijn, Alemannic German: Rhi(n) including Alsatian/Low Alemannic German) is one of the major European rivers, which has its sources in Switzerland and flows in a mostly northerly direction through Germany and the Netherlands, emptying into the North Sea.

The river begins in the Swiss canton of Graubünden in the southeastern Swiss Alps, forms part of the Swiss-Liechtenstein, Swiss-Austrian, Swiss-German and then the Franco-German border, then flows through the German Rhineland and the Netherlands and eventually empties into the North Sea.

It is the second-longest river in Central and Western Europe (after the Danube), at about 1,230 km (760 mi), with an average discharge of about 2,900 m3/s (100,000 cu ft/s).

The Rhine and the Danube formed most of the northern inland frontier of the Roman Empire and, since those days, the Rhine has been a vital and navigable waterway carrying trade and goods deep inland.

Its importance as a waterway in the Holy Roman Empire is supported by the many castles and fortifications built along it.

In the modern era, it has become a symbol of German nationalism.

Among the largest and most important cities on the Rhine are Cologne (Köln), Düsseldorf, Rotterdam, Strasbourg and Basel.

 

 

Flusssystemkarte Rhein 04.jpg

 

 

The mouth of the Rhine into Lake Constance forms an inland delta.

The delta is delimited in the west by the Alter Rhein (“Old Rhine“) and in the east by a modern canalized section.

Most of the delta is a nature reserve and bird sanctuary.

It includes the Austrian towns of Gaißau, Höchst and Fußach.

The natural Rhine originally branched into at least two arms and formed small islands by precipitating sediments.

 

 

 

In the local Alemannic dialect, the singular is pronounced “Isel” and this is also the local pronunciation of Esel (“donkey“).

Many local fields have an official name containing this element.

 

 

Donkey in Clovelly, North Devon, England.jpg

 

 

A regulation of the Rhine was called for, with an upper canal near Diepoldsau and a lower canal at Fußach, in order to counteract the constant flooding and strong sedimentation in the western Rhine Delta.

 

 

 

 

The Dornbirner Ach had to be diverted, too, and it now flows parallel to the canalized Rhine into the lake.

Its water has a darker color than the Rhine.

The latter’s lighter suspended load comes from higher up the mountains.

It is expected that the continuous input of sediment into the lake will silt up the lake.

 

 

Dornbirn wikicon 31.08.2012 14-24-27.jpg

 

 

This has already happened to the former Lake Tuggenersee.

The cut-off Old Rhine at first formed a swamp landscape.

Later an artificial ditch of about two km was dug.

It was made navigable to the Swiss town of Rheineck.

 

 

Alter Rhein.png

 

 

The Wahlkreis Rheintal (English: Rhine Valley) is a constituency (Wahlkreis) of the canton of St. Gallen, Switzerland, formed under the new constitution of the Canton on 10 June 2001.

It consists largely of the former districts of Oberrheintal (Upper Rhine Valley) and Unterrheintal (Lower Rhine Valley).

The Wahlrkreis is comprised of 13 municipalities, of which the focus of this post, Diepoldsau is one of them.

 

 

Karte von Wahlkreis Rheintal

 

 

While today’s Rhine River purposefully flows into Lake Constance in its straightened bed, the Old Rhine is one of its still waters.

The still original arms of the Old Rhine, separated from the New Rhine due to flooding a century ago, are characterized by a specific flora and fauna.

Apart from a short start and an abrupt end, the swift flatland circuit we followed is formed by both the old and new banks of the River.

 

 

Above: Painting by Max Bach (1841-1914) of the view of Rheineck and the former mouth of the Rhine into Lake Constance

 

 

It is a 41-minute / 51-kilometre car journey from Landschlacht to Diepoldsau via Highways 13 and 1.1, but in some ways this mere distance seems greater.

 

 

Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau

 

 

It was on this day on this three-hour / 12-kilometre walk that I once again considered aspects of Switzerland that unsettle me.

 

 

Diepoldsau 9 Schrägseilbrücke Ortstafel.jpg

 

 

This is a nation wherein I reside, but it is a nation which I do not believe that I will ever embrace as beloved.

 

 

Coat of arms of Switzerland

 

 

It is a land that claims to be the best democracy in terms of its practices – such as frequent referendums and in some cantons public direct voting in the market squares – and yet all Swiss men are required to serve the nation in a military or civil service capacity for several weeks a year until such age they are no longer considered useful.

 

 

 

 

This is a land that prides itself on its humanitarianism – with noteworthy institutions like the European branch of the United Nations and the International Red Cross – and yet this is a land where children were sold for their labour….

 

 

Above: Headquarters of the International Red Cross, Geneva

 

 

(The Schwabenkinder of the 19th century – peasant children from poor families in the Alps of Austria and Switzerland who went to find work on farms in Upper Swabia and the Swabian Jura.

Usually they were sent by their parents to become seasonal workers.

They were taken in spring and brought to the child markets in Germany, mainly in Upper Swabia, where they would be purchased or “rented” by farmers for the season.

It was not uncommon for five and six-year-old children to be taken.)

 

 

 

 

….. and refugees from the Nazi Holocaust were denied entry,

 

 

Selection on the ramp at Auschwitz-Birkenau, 1944 (Auschwitz Album) 1a.jpg

 

 

This is a land where immense profits were made from the manufacture of arms in wars they refused to enter, where secret bank accounts hid the ill-gotten gains of corrupt depositors.

 

 

Swiss Banks Name Holders of Dormant Accounts Worth $45 Million - WSJ

 

 

This is a land eager to show that it does not discriminate and, in fairness, per capita Switzerland does admit many more foreigners into its territory than many other nations have, but the ability for the foreigner to rise in society is no easier in Switzerland than anywhere else.

 

 

Above: Poster against illegal Muslim immigration

 

 

I have witnessed sexual discrimination, racial discrimination and age discrimination, but like many democratic nations the discrimination is well-cloaked in terminology and legalese to justify the discriminatory activities.

 

 

 

 

Let me be clear on a few points:

 

I am not suggesting that there is a single nation on the planet that has not, at some time in its history, blood on its hands.

 

 

"The Blue Marble" photograph of Earth, taken by the Apollo 17 mission. The Arabian peninsula, Africa and Madagascar lie in the upper half of the disc, whereas Antarctica is at the bottom.

 

 

Nor am I suggesting that the entire population of a nation be judged on the actions of a few.

 

 

Flag of United Nations Arabic: منظمة الأمم المتحدة‎ Chinese: 联合国 French: Organisation des Nations unies Russian: Организация Объединённых Наций Spanish: Organización de las Naciones Unidas

 

 

All I am saying is we should not embrace our nationalism without sober reflection of all that was done, both positive and negative, in the name of that nation.

 

 

 

 

The cries of our victims should not be drowned beneath national anthems and the drumbeat of progress.

 

 

Hear The Most Popular 7 Seconds of Drumming Ever Recorded | Mental ...

 

 

As Marcus Aurelius wrote:

A man does not sin by commission (doing things he should not have done) only, but often by omission (not doing things he should have done).”

 

 

Marble bust of Marcus Aurelius

Above: Marble bust of Marcus Aurelius (AD 121 – 180)

 

 

Switzerland may not have had a war since the days of Napoleon, but its actions (or lack of actions) despite this is how the nation should be judged.

 

 

As a resident foreigner, I have often felt that there has always been a whiff of hypocracy in the rarified Swiss air, a pretense of being purer than it is, much like a whore pretending to be a virgin.

Every once in a while, I am reminded of the double standard, smoke and mirrors, layers beneath the image by which the Swiss would like to be seen.

 

 

 

 

As a neutral state bordering Germany, Switzerland was easy to reach for refugees from the Nazis.

 

 

Above: German-Swiss border

 

 

Switzerland’s refugee laws, especially with respect to Jews fleeing Germany, were strict and have caused controversy since the end of World War II.

From 1933 until 1944 asylum for refugees could only be granted to those who were under personal threat owing to their political activities only.

It did not include those who were under threat due to race, religion or ethnicity.

On the basis of this definition, Switzerland granted asylum to only 644 people between 1933 and 1945.

Of these, 252 cases were admitted during the war.

All other refugees were admitted by the individual cantons and were granted different permits, including a “tolerance permit” that allowed them to live in the canton but not to work.

Over the course of the war, Switzerland interned 300,000 refugees.

Of these, 104,000 were foreign troops interned according to the Rights and Duties of Neutral Powers outlined in the Hague Conventions.

 

 

Above: The Peace Palace, The Hague, The Netherlands

 

 

The rest were foreign civilians and were either interned or granted tolerance or residence permits by the cantonal authorities.

Refugees were not allowed to hold jobs.

Of the refugees, 60,000 were civilians escaping persecution by the Nazis.

Of these 60,000, 27,000 were Jews.

Between 10,000 and 24,000 Jewish civilian refugees were refused entry.

These refugees were refused entry on the asserted claim of dwindling supplies.

Of those refused entry, a Swiss government representative said:

“Our little lifeboat is full”.

 

 

Above: Eduard von Steiger (1881 – 1962), Swiss Minister of Justice and the Police, who coined the lifeboat phrase

 

 

 

At the beginning of the war, Switzerland had a Jewish population of between 18,000 and 28,000 and a total population of about four million.

By the end of the war, there were over 115,000 refuge-seeking people of all categories in Switzerland, representing the maximum number of refugees at any one time.

 

 

The boat is full': 75 years later - SWI swissinfo.ch

 

 

In August 1938, Switzerland closed its borders to Jewish refugees who tried to evade the Nazi regime.

Migration of Jewish people across the green border to Switzerland was declared by the Swiss government to be illegal and refugees were sent back to Austria and Germany.

Hundreds of people without a valid visa tried to cross the border to be safe and secure in Switzerland from the Holocaust, many of them crossing the border from Austria to Canton St. Gallen.

These “illegal migrations” and the background of the border crossings and its clandestine support by Swiss officials and citizens, got the attention of the Swiss immigration police.

 

 

Swiss Border Guard - Wikipedia

 

 

Diepoldsau (pop: 6,471+) – the start and end points of our circular walk –  was first mentioned in 891.

In 1868, a disastrous fire struck Diepoldsau:

141 people lost their homes as 23 houses burned to the ground.

Three years later, a major flood struck the town.

Another flood of the Rhine followed in 1888 when the Diepoldsau Dam broke.

Another dam broke a year later, followed by a famine due to all the destroyed crops.

 

 

 

 

An international treaty between the Austro-Hungarian Empire and Switzerland on the regulation of the Rhine was decided in 1892.

Between 1910 and 1912 work began on the Diepoldsau Rhine.

The First World War largely hindered the continuation of work on the river.

During the Great War, a large number of residents made a lot of money smuggling thread.

 

 

 

 

On 18 April 1923, the Rhine was diverted to its new bed,

In 1932, the municipality created the first groundwater supply with a pumping system and a pipeline network of 14 kilometres.

 

 

Alter Rhein/Diepoldsau | TOURENSPUREN

 

 

But Diepoldsau’s claim to fame was that it was the crossing point for Jews escaping Nazi Germany (and German-annexed Austria) into Canton St. Gallen.

Thousands of Jews were saved here, despite the general Swiss policy of severely restricting Jewish escape from their Nazi persecutors.

In Diepoldsau, a refugee camp for up to 300 people was built in June 1938 in an old empty ship embroidery factory, maintained by the Swiss Red Cross and financed by the Jewish community of St. Gallen.

 

 

Switzerland – Évian Conference – Online-Exhibition

 

 

The Swiss federal government did not participate in the funding.

The inmates were subject to strict camp regulations and were not allowed to work.

They were prohibited from contacting the local population, but this rule was mostly not adhered to.

 

 

The police commander who saved hundreds of Jews | House of Switzerland

 

 

Swiss immigration police senior official Heinrich Rothmund ordered police inspector Robert Frei, a ruthless, loyal and authoritarian official, to investigate Canton St. Gallen.

Jewish refugees appeared to be supported by parts of the local population, with the approval of the Canton police commandant Paul Grüninger.

Frei’s investigation confirmed the suspicion that Grüninger allowed Jewish refugees to enter Switzerland without a valid visa.

Grüninger falsified documents and personally helped refugees to illegally cross the border.

 

 

The police commander who saved hundreds of Jews | House of Switzerland

 

 

Grüninger confessed to Frei, but he claimed that he was not acting against the law or against the state security of Switzerland.

His motives were based on pure humanity.

Frei was overawed by Grüninger’s integrity, intransigence and personal views and came to doubt the legality of his investigations.

Nonetheless Grüninger was dismissed from the police, convicted of official misconduct and heavily fined.

Grüninger received no pension and died in poverty.

 

 

Above: Paul Grüninger (1891 – 1972)

 

 

After his death, Grüninger’s reputation was brought back partially in the public memory by some publications beginning in 1984.

Steps to rehabilitate his reputation were set in motion.

The first attempt to restore Grüninger’s honour was rejected by the Swiss Council.

Only as late as 1995 did the Swiss federal government finally annul Grüninger’s conviction.

The district court of St. Gallen revoked the judgment against him and cleared him of all charges.

Three years later, the cantonal government paid compensation to Grüninger’s descendants.

 

 

Coat of arms of Kanton St. Gallen

Above: Coat of arms of Canton St. Gallen

 

 

In 1999, the Bergier Commission’s report rehabilitated Grüninger as well as the surviving people who had been convicted for their assistance to refugees – a mere 137 persons out of a wartime population of five million (today, over eight million).

 

 

Le déviationnisme coupable de la commission Bergier - Les Observateurs

 

 

The Bergier commission in Bern was formed by the Swiss government on 12 December 1996.

It is also known as the ICE (Independent Commission of Experts).

Founded in a decade when Switzerland had come under recurring criticism for its behaviour during World War II, particularly with respect to its relations with the Nazi government in Germany, the commission was established by the Swiss Parliament and headed by Jean-François Bergier, an economic historian.

Made up of Polish, American, Israeli and Swiss historians, the Commission’s mandate was to investigate the volume and fate of assets moved to Switzerland before, during, and immediately after the Second World War.

The investigation was to be made from a historical and legal point of view, with a particular emphasis on the links between the Nazi regime and Swiss banks.

The mandate covers almost every type of asset, including gold, currency and cultural assets.

The content of the research program was broadened by the government to include economic relations, arms production, “Aryanisation measures”, the monetary system, and refugee policy.

 

 

Flag of the NSDAP (1920–1945).svg

 

 

Since the 19th century, Switzerland had a positive humanitarian image based upon the tradition of granting asylum, providing good offices, humanitarian aid, particularly through the work of the Geneva-based International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC).

However, after the First World War, Switzerland was not immune to xenophobic and anti-semitic sentiments that were spreading through Europe.

As in other Western countries in the 1930s, Switzerland, increasingly applied restrictions on the admission of foreigners in the name of national security.

Switzerland, apparently on its own initiative began to openly apply racist selection criteria according to the Nazi definition.

In 1938, even before the war broke out, the Swiss Government requested the Nazi authorities to stamp all passports of German Jews with a “J” as the Swiss did not recognize the right to asylum of those fleeing racial persecution.

 

 

German J stamped Passport for the East - Our Passports

 

 

With the increasing persecution of Jews by the Nazi regime, Swiss restrictions were set apart from other restrictive policies of the Allies due to its geographical location:

It was the easiest country on the continent for refugees to reach.

 

 

 

 

Thousands of refugees were sent back even though authorities knew that they were likely sending them to their deaths.

 

 

Part 1: Walking in the darkness, tripping over the truth | Words ...

 

 

The ICE concluded:

Switzerland, and in particular its political leaders, failed when it came to generously offering protection to persecuted Jews.

This is all the more serious in view of the fact that the authorities, who were quite aware of the possible consequences of their decision, not only closed the borders in August 1942, but continued to apply this restrictive policy for over a year.

By adopting numerous measures making it more difficult for refugees to reach safety, and by handing over the refugees caught directly to their persecutors, the Swiss authorities were instrumental in helping the Nazi regime to attain its goals.

 

 

Escape | Jüdisches Museum Hohenems

 

 

Refugee figures are hard to come by.

However the Commission concluded that during the Second World War Switzerland offered refuge from Nazi persecution to some 60,000 refugees for varying periods of time, a little under 50% of whom were Jewish.

The commission carefully explained the difficulty of estimating the number of refugees, most of whom were probably Jewish, turned away.

In a preliminary report for the Commission, an estimate of 24,000 “documented rejections” was published.

However, in the final report, perhaps having taken into account criticism of the earlier figures, the commission was more cautious, indicating that it must be assumed that “Switzerland turned back or deported over 20,000 refugees during the Second World War.

Specifically, they reported that during the period from 1 January 1942, after the borders were closed, to 31 December 1942, 3,507 refugees were turned back.

In August 2001 when the Commission issued a final conclusion, with respect to refugee policy, stating that, “measured against its previous stand in terms of humanitarian aid and asylum where its refugee policy was concerned, neutral Switzerland not only failed to live up to its own standards, but also violated fundamental humanitarian principles.”

 

 

Flight and Expulsion of the Jews from Austria – Évian Conference ...

 

 

The initial reaction to Nazi policy of discriminating against Jews was mixed with some of the companies complying readily and even anticipating laws to come, while others held out and resisted discriminating as long as they could.

However, the Commission found that the practice of certifying the Aryan origin of its staff was widespread among owners and senior managers of Swiss companies in Nazi-occupied territory.

Even before 1938, the Swiss Federal Political Department had suggested the applying of German law concerning race to Swiss companies.

The commission concluded that this “clearly shows that the FPD, either completely misjudged the legal, political and ethical implications of doing so, or ignored any misgivings they might have had for the sake of commercial interests.

After 1938, it became impossible for Swiss companies operating in Nazi controlled areas to avoid applying aryanization policy if they were to continue to operate.

The commission concluded, “that Swiss firms played an active role in the ‘Aryanisation’ process.

Not only were their head offices in Switzerland aware of what was happening – often because their subsidiaries within Nazi-controlled territory were involved in the acquisition of Jewish businesses – but they approved of or even encouraged the process.”

 

 

JDC in the 1930s | JDC Archives

 

 

The commission also addressed the issue of the use of slave and forced labor in Swiss-owned firms and concluded: “that the figure quoted in the media – a total of over 11,000 forced labourers and prisoners of war employed in Swiss subsidiary companies throughout the Reich – is likely to be on the low side.”

 

The commission examined the role of the Swiss diplomatic service in protecting Swiss-owned property held in the Reich and concluded that a double standard was applied: whereas international law was strictly applied vis-a-vis Swiss property in the Soviet Union, Swiss authorities, “increasingly favoured the so-called theory of equal treatment, i.e., that if Germany was discriminating against its own Jewish citizens it was hardly possible to legally contest its equally harsh treatment of foreign Jews living in Germany.

 

 

CHF coins.jpg

 

 

German race laws were implicitly endorsed by the Swiss government

  • In 1938 the Swiss asked the German government to stamp a J in the passports of all German Jews in order that they could be treated differently from other German passport holders.
  • In 1942 the Swiss officials closed their borders and refused to admit Jewish children among children brought to Switzerland for holidays.
  • Anti-semitic attitudes held by Swiss authorities contributed to such decisions.
  • In 1941 when the Nazi government stripped German Jews of their citizenship, the Swiss authorities applied the law to German Jews living in Switzerland by declaring them stateless; when in February 1945 Swiss authorities blocked German Bank accounts held in Switzerland they declared that the German Jews were no longer stateless, but were once again German and blocked their Swiss bank accounts as well.

 

While it is true that Swiss offered humanitarian assistance to refugees in Switzerland and others in distress abroad, the Swiss government did not use its unique geographical and historical positions to offer protection to those persecuted by the Nazi state, rather they progressively closed their borders and returned refugees to Nazi authorities, driving many people to certain death.

 

 

Swiss Act to Check Refugee Influx; Threaten to Return New Emigres ...

 

 

Consistent with historical business ties and Swiss neutrality, Swiss firms continued and often increased their relationship with the economies in Nazi occupied Europe.

However, in a number of cases Swiss businessmen went out of their way to conform to the German political climate to the extent of removing Jewish employees in their factories and offices in Germany and even sometimes in Switzerland.

Swiss firms also neglected the interests, particularly in the banking and insurance sectors of clients who were persecuted by the Nazis.

Some Swiss firms in adapting to the restructured German economy found themselves employing forced labour and in some cases labour from concentration camps.

Even though statistics are hard to come by, it is clear that Nazi-plundered gold flowed into Switzerland with the knowledge of the highest authorities in spite of promises that were made to the Allies to forbid such trade.

 

 

Nazi Reichsbank Gold Bars

 

 

The Commission concluded that the dual responsibilities of a democratic state to its own people and to the international community were not met during the period examined, and were often ignored during the fifty year post-war period.

After the war, when victims of the Holocaust or relatives of victims tried to access bank accounts that had been dormant during the war, Swiss banking authorities hid behind an interpretation of banking secrecy laws to block access and restitution.

Such behavior was deemed to have been determined by institutional self-interest rather than the interests of the victims of the Nazi state who had transferred their assets to Switzerland for safekeeping.

 

 

Bundesarchiv Bild 183-N0827-318, KZ Auschwitz, Ankunft ungarischer Juden.jpg

 

 

 

Grüninger was recognized as one of the Righteous Among the Nations by the Yad Vashem Holocaust Foundation in 1971.

In other words, this recognition, and subsequent publications a decade later, was needed before the Swiss government finally felt the compulsion to exonerate Grüninger.

 

 

Righteous Among the Nations medal simplified.svg

 

Above: The Righteous Among the Nations medal

 

 

A street located in the northern Jerusalem neighbourhood of Pisgat Ze’ev, a stadium in Brühl (St. Gallen), the Rhine bridge between Diepoldsau (Switzerland) and Hohenems (Austria), and a path in Oerlikon (Zürich) are named after Paul Grüninger.

 

 

Paul Grüninger in Israel geehrt - SWI swissinfo.ch

Above: Paul Grüninger Street, Jerusalem

 

 

Paul-Grüninger-Stadion - Stadion in St. Gallen

Above: Paul Grüninger Stadium, Brühl (St. Gallen)

 

 

RHE246 Paul Grüninger Bridge over the Alter Rhein River, D… | Flickr

Above: Paul Grüninger Bridge

 

 

File:Oerlikon - Paul Grüninger-Weg 2015-06-14 16-10-36.JPG

Above: Paul Grüninger Weg, Oerlikon

 

 

Which may be comforting to Grüninger’s descendants and ease the guilty conscience of the Swiss government, but is no consolation for the dead.

 

 

Paul Grueninger Stiftung _Grab

Above: Final resting place of Paul and Alice Grüninger, Au, Canton St. Gallen

 

 

My wife and I arrived in Diepoldsau, found a place to park in the city centre near the bus stop Diepoldsau Dorf (near the post office), and walked in the direction of Heerbrugg, following signage marked “Rhein Rundweg” (Rhine Circle Path) to lead us to the Rhine bridge leading to the Swiss town of Widnau.

Our path was no so much a circle as it was in the form of an inverted letter “C” or a dented “D“.

A trail to a dam that evolved into a farm path led us north near the river bank.

 

 

Wanderpfad auf der Landesgrenze mitten im Alten Rhein | St.Galler ...

 

 

The gently rolling Appenzeller foothills rose to our left, the rugged Bregenzerwald mountains to our right, above this strikingly flat and resistant manmade Diepoldsau peninsula created by the old and new Rhine rivers.

Every 250 metres beside the concrete path stood a “museum hut” – a little wooden cabin, not much larger than an outhouse or portable potty – with three small windows allowing the voyeur to see souvenirs of the past.

 

 

Natur- und Erholungsparadies Alter Rhein

 

 

At the state border to Vorarlberg, the circular route turned to the southeast at the Unter Spitz (410 metres above sea level), the northern apex of the path.

We then leisurely strolled along the long-drawn out natural landscape protected area known as the Alterrhein (old Rhine), an important recreational spot, towards the defiant Rätikonberge (Rätikon mountains) and the Alvier elevation on the Swiss side.

Again and again we directed our curious gaze through the trees to contemplate the atmospheric tranquillity of the surface of the water.

 

 

Bilder und Texte zu meinen Wanderungen mit Hund: Rundwanderung in ...

 

 

From the Schmitterbrücke Zollamt (Schmitter Bridge Customs Office)(413 metres above sea level), the path runs through a wonderfully soothing strip of riparian forest, which is replaced by a Vitaparcours (a fitness trail).

 

 

 

 

At the Diepoldsau Lido (an outdoor swimming pool facility)(410 metres above sea level) we had to switch to a parellel route.

 

 

Luzern – Lido | Museum für Gestaltung eGuide

 

 

After crossing Hohenems Road, that bisects the D-shaped Diepoldsau peninsula and leads to the Austrian city of Hohenems, our narrow circular trail followed the bank of the Old Rhine for a long time.

From the water supply dam (411 metres above sea level) with a beautiful view of the Hoher Kasten (1,791 m / 5,876 ft), a mountain in nearby Appenzell, an agricultural path, lined with birches, led us alongside the dam through the Isenriet (a marsh) back to the town of Diepoldsau.

 

 

Rundweg Alter Rhein • Wanderung » outdooractive.com

 

 

I found myself thinking about events in history that took place on this day (24 May) and I am reminded that on this day in 1981 Ecuadorian President Jaime Roldós Aguilera died in an aviation accident while travelling from Quito to Zapotillo, minutes after he had given his most famous speech regarding the anniversary of the Battle of Pichincha (24 May 1822) in a short war against Peru.

 

 

Roldos aguilera.png

Above: Jaime Roldós Aguilera (1940 – 1981)

 

 

Roldós is best known for his firm stance on human rights.

He reduced the workweek to 42 hours, doubled the minimum wage and proposed the signing of a Charter of Conduct with Columbia, Peru and Venezuela in which the principles of universal justice and human rights were reaffirmed, signaling protection of human rights as a more important principle than non-intervention.

 

 

 

 

I won’t get into the suspicious nature of the crash (wherein even a team of Zürich Police were brought to Ecuador to conduct an investigation), but rather I would like to share with you the essence of his last speech  –  at Atahulpa Stadium in front of a crowd of thousands  –  in an attempt to show you how I think nationalism should be practised.

 

 

Estadio Olímpico Atahualpa (15665410999).jpg

Above: Atahulpa Olympic Stadium, Quito, Ecuador

 

 

We have worked 21 months under a constitutional government when in countries like ours, having a democratic stability means conquering it daily.

 

 

Flag of Ecuador

Above: Flag of Ecuador

 

 

Ecuadorians, we were honest.

We continue to be honest in each and all of our actions.

Actions, not words, will prove our intentions.

It is the time of work and solidarity, not the time for strikes, threats or rumours.

Let us prove we love our country by complying our duties.

Our great passion is and should always be Ecuador.

Our great passion, listen to me, is and should be Ecuador.

 

 

Ecuador Map | Infoplease

 

 

We don’t want this Ecuador to be enmeshed in the insignificant but in the most important, in the untiring building-up a destiny of nobility, a heroic Ecuador won on Pichincha, an Ecuador with brave people, brave fighters….

A heroic Ecuador of the Condor Mountain Range.

An eternal and united Ecuador in defence of its territory.

A democratic Ecuador capable of teaching humanism, work and liberty.

This Amazonian Ecuador, forever and always.

Long live this nation.

 

 

Ecuador recuerda a su presidente Jaime Roldós Aguilera ...

 

 

Grüninger and Roldós paid a heavy price for their idealism, but their lives meant something significant.

They taught us that we can be better than we are, by doing what we should and refraining from doing what we should not.

 

 

There are so many problems in the world, but imagine what we could accomplish if we all together decided to try.

 

 

Rundwanderung am Alten Rhein bei Hohenems, Vorarlberg

 

 

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Herbert Mayr, Bodensee Süd (Rother Wanderführer)

The Path Divided

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Friday 7 August 2020

I’m back!

 

My Facebook followers already know that I have spent the past week walking in Canton Valais in southern Switzerland near the Italian border.

 

Coat of arms of Valais

Above: Coat of arms of Canton Valais

 

It was a positive and inspirational experience that shall appear both within this blog and the novel I am working on.

I was also greatly inspired by the one book I brought along with me….

 

In 1878, Robert Louis Stevenson (of Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde / Treasure Island fame) escaped from his numerous troubles – poor health, tormented love, inadequate funds – by embarking on a journey through the Cévannes in France, accompanied by Modestine, a rather single-minded donkey.

 

 

Portrait by Henry Walter Barnett, 1893

Above: Robert Louis Stevenson (1850 – 1894)

 

 

The notebook Stevenson kept during this time became Travels with a Donkey in the Cévannes.

 

 

 

 

I am impressed by his dedication to his friend Sidney Colvin at the start of the book:

 

My dear Sidney Colvin,

The journey which this little book is to describe was very agreeable and fortunate for me. 

After an uncouth beginning, I had the best of luck to the end.

But we are all travellers in what John Bunyan calls “the wilderness of this world” – all, too, travellers with a donkey.

 

 

John Bunyan by Thomas Sadler 1684.jpg

Above: John Bunyan (The Pilgrim’s Progress) (1628 – 1688)

 

 

And the best that we find in our travels is an honest friend.

He is a fortunate voyager who finds many.

We travel, indeed, to find them.

They are the end and the reward of life.

They keep us worthy of ourselves.

And, when we are alone, we are only nearer to the absent.

 

 

Travels.with.donkey.jpg

 

Stevenson later writes in his description of the Upper Gévaudan:

For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go.

I travel for travel’s sake.

The great affair is to move.

To feel the needs and hitches of our life more nearly.

To come down off this feather bed of civilization and find the globe granite underfoot and strewn with cutting flints.

Alas, as we get up in life, and are more preoccupied with our affairs, even a holiday is a thing that must be worked for.

To hold a pack upon a pack-saddle against a gale out of the freezing north is no high industry, but it is one that serves to occupy and compose the mind.

And when the present is so exacting who can annoy himself about the future?”

 

 

GR70 Stevenson trail 1

Above: Map of Robert Louis Stevenson’s Travels with a Donkey in the Cévannes

 

 

From Bill Bryson’s A Walk in the Woods:

 

Bill Bryson A Walk In The Woods.jpg

 

Running more than 2,000 miles along America’s Eastern Seaboard, through the serene and beckoning Appalachian Mountains, the Appalachian Trail (AT) is the granddaddy of long hikes.

 

ANST-Triangle-Logo 1.jpg

 

The Virginia portion alone is twice the length of the Pennine Way.

 

 

(The Pennine Way is a National Trail in England, with a small section in Scotland.

The trail stretches for 268 miles (431 km) from Edale, in the northern Derbyshire Peak District, north through the Yorkshire Dales and Northumberland National Park and ends at Kirk Yetholm, just inside the Scottish border.

The path runs along the Pennine hills, sometimes described as the “backbone of England“.

Although not the United Kingdom’s longest National Trail (this distinction belongs to the 630-mile (1,014 km) South West Coast Path), it is according to The Ramblers “one of Britain’s best known and toughest“.)

 

 

Pennine Way Signpost

 

 

From Georgia to Maine, the AT wanders through plump, comely hills whose very names – Blue Ridge, Smokies, Cumberlands, Catskills, Green Mountains, White Mountains – seem an invitation to amble.

Who could say the words “Great Smoky Mountains” or “Shenandoah Valley” and not feel an urge, as the naturalist John Muir once put it, to “throw a loaf of bread and a pound of tea in an old sack and jump over the back fence“?

 

 

John Muir c1902.jpg

Above: John Muir (1838 – 1914)

 

 

From the New York Times, Saturday 30 May 2020:

When Kelsey Foster started hiking the Appalachian Trail in early March, she had left her whole life behind – her job, her apartment, her family.

 

The mood was still lighthearted as news about the corona virus trickled out to hikers in those first few days.

There started being kinds of jokes about it, like:

‘You left society at the right time.“, Ms. Foster said.

There is no way to social distance better than being a backpacker.

 

 

Kelsey Foster after completing 200 miles of the trail.

Above: Kelsey Foster

 

 

But by the end of the month, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC), the organization that leads management of the Trail, which crosses 14 states along its 2,190-mile route from Georgia to Maine, was urging hikers to stay away.

That set off an exodus from the Trail and a bitter debate about those who stayed behind.

 

 

Appalachian Trail Conservancy | LinkedIn

 

After weeks of struggling to decide, Ms. Foster ultimately went home, joining millions of Americans who were suddenly set adrift as the corona virus battered the economy.

Just as the annual hiking season was beginning this spring, the pandemic has devastated Trail towns up and down the East Coast, created rifts in a tight-knit community and left hikers, small businesses and the Trail’s caretakers facing almost impossible questions.

 

 

 

 

Is backpacking still safe or does it put hikers and the towns they visit in danger?

Should a hostel ordered to close still serve a hiker in need?

What if the hiker refuses to wear a mask or the hostel is going bankrupt?

And how do you manage nearly 2,200 miles of Trail, served by thousands of volunteers and businesses, overseen by a patchwork group of parks and agencies, in the middle of a pandemic?

 

 

 

 

Officially, the Trail itself is not closed.

But access to it depends on jurisdiction:

Shenandoah National Park is closed, for instance, and the US Forest Service has shut down some shelters, access points and trailheads in line with local guidance.

 

 

Flag of the United States Forest Service.svg

 

 

(On 20 May, as some states began to ease stay-at-home orders, the Conservancy offered a safety update to day and overnight hikers, while still asking thru-hikers to postpone their trips.)

 

 

 

 

Sandra Marra, the president of the Conservancy, said the request to stay off the Trail had not been made lightly.

Infections were rising around the country – and cases included park service employees.

Volunteers who clean shelters and privies do not have protective equipment.

There was a fear that hikers could bring infections to vulnerable towns.

And an injury on the Trail could further strain medical resources.

 

 

 

 

And even though hiking may seem like an exercise in isolation, Ms. Marra said:

You can’t hike the Trail for more than a day or two before you’re walking into towns, roads, businesses and people.

Normally, 3,000 to 4,000 people attempt to thru-hike – going the Trail’s entire length, at which only about one in four succeed – and three million people visit parts of the Trail every year.

 

 

 

 

Ms. Marra said that the overwhelming majority of thru-hikers – those who try to complete the entire Trail – heeded the request to stay away.

But a few hundred hikers have stayed on.

They call themselves the Resistance.“, she said.

 

 

The Army Veteran Who Became the First to Hike the Entire ...

 

 

On social media, where the Trail community is usually an oasis of positivity – lots of Trail stories and tips about gear and very little politics – venom started to fly.

Some users accused hikers of selfishly endangering others.

Others compared Trail closures to Fascist decrees.

 

 

 

 

Janet Major (61) who stayed on the Trail, said she had endured a wave of “hate and actual threats of violence” after someone accused her of being a “spreader“.

Many hikers said that misinformation had swept through the community and that they undertook a daily battle to counter it with accurate information about closures and resources.

 

 

 

 

Caught between hostel owners and “Trail angels” like Odie Norman, who every year travels up and down the Trail in his school bus, knitting the community together as he compiles a hiker yearbook.

Mr. Norman (37) said he helped hundreds of hikers get off the Trail this year and also helped dozens more resupply to stay on.

 

I #hikeOctober | HIKE for Mental Health

Above: Odie Norman

 

 

My heart has chosen to serve the hiking community and that’s on both sides of the coin right now.“, he said.

Other Trail angels provided protective equipment or even took hikers into their homes to quarantine.

 

 

 

 

Mr. Norman has since gone to live in his parents’ attic in Alabama.

Me going on my bus from town to town is not congruent with what we should be doing in America.“, he said.

I’m willing to bet we’ll see 50% of hostels along the Trail will close.

 

 

The Story Behind the Hiker Yearbook - The Trek

 

 

The Open Arms Hostel in Luray, Virginia, normally has hundreds of visitors in the spring.

This year, its owner, Alison Coltrane, had one guest between 6 April and 14 May as she abided by a county ban on short-term lodging.

Ms. Coltrane (55) was able to get a three-month deferment on her mortgage, and to stay afloat, she started delivering pizza at night and working 5 a.m. shifts at a Walmart distribution centre.

I am a one-woman show.“, she said.

It’s been rough.

I miss my hikers.

 

Alison Coltrane

Above: Alison Coltrane

 

 

Colin Gooder, the owner of Gooder Grove Hostel in Franklin, North Carolina, was an early bearer of warnings to hikers, even before he shut down in mid-March.

While most hikers followed official guidance, he said, some were offended that he asked them to take precautions and wear masks.

 

There was almost a subculture of indignation about it.“, he said.

The division that has hit all of society is now affecting the Appalachian Trail’s society and culture.

 

And he said that although his business has been devastated – his application for government aid is in limbo, and he is only now cautiously reopening under state guidelines – he did not regret having raised an early alarm.

It’s hard to tell people that something they had planned for years, for the next six months of their lives, is impossible right now.“, he said.

Don’t shoot the messenger.

 

Day 14, Sunday, February 25. Rock Gap->Gooder Grove Hostel—0.1 ...

 

Some hostels have tried to continue serving thru-hikers.

 

David Morgan, the owner of the Station at 19E in Roan Mountain, Tennessee, said he has had hikers stranded from Europe and Hawaii.

 

What do I do?

Close and go home while I’ve got these grubby hikers here?“, he said.

I can’t turn my back on hikers.”

 

It’s a hard choice.

It’s like there is no good answer.“, he said.

 

The Station at 19E Pub & Hostel

 

But while it can be a relief to find room in a shelter at the end of the day, many hikers also miss forming bonds with others travelling in their “bubbles“.

For many who went home or never started out this year, a route emptied out of thru-hikers was also drained of the generous community and “Trail magic” they were searching for.

 

 

 

 

Mark Waligora (51) had quit his job of almost three decades to hike the Trail, “refocus with people again and be more connected with nature“.

The pandemic scuttled his plans.

As the weeks passed, he realized that in addition to the safety risks, “it would not have been the experience I wanted, having all these international folks from all walks of lie and all the great states“.

 

Still, he said he would not judge the people who carried on.

I wish people listened to the ATC, but if people decided to stay, then by all means I hope they’re being safe.

Personally, I don’t know what to believe, what’s right or wrong in relation to Covid.“, he said.

Hike your own hike, you know?

 

Mark Waligora - A.T. Thru-Hiker 3-22-2021 GA-ME - Appalachian ...

Above: Mark Waligora

 

 

Lake Constance (Bodensee) between Lindau, Germany and Rorschach, Switzerland, Friday 7 August 2020

 

Bodensee satellit.jpg

 

It is difficult to be a grumpy old man and still be part of civilized society, especially if you travel with your significant other.

 

Across from us on the boat Zürich, a middle-aged woman was making me cross.

 

 

Bodenseeschiff MS Zürich - Lindau (Bodensee) - YouTube

 

 

The rules are clear.

Aboard any public transport, be it boat, bus or train, everyone is instructed to wear a mask.

It is understood that wearing a mask means covering both one’s nose and mouth at all times between entering the moving transport and exiting the same.

 

 

 

 

This particular hair bottle job specimen of a woman wore her mask around her neck like a necklace, only putting it across her face when there was danger she might be spoken to by someone in authority.

I could not decide whether she was being arrogant or ignorant.

She didn’t not care that she risked infection from others equally as stubborn or clueless as herself or whether she unknowingly infected those around her.

For her, wearing a mask was an annoyance, an inconvenience, that restricted her volume and her freedom.

For her, not covering her face was an act of defiance, of flaunting the rules, which she clearly felt did not apply to her.

I longed to stand up in front of her with the impact of my 6’5″ (194 in metric) frame of a body and express in my loud intimidating voice exactly what was on my mind.

But being with my wife, I restrained myself to giving her the darkest looks I could muster.

I seriously doubt she even noticed.

 

 

Anti mask protest: Psychologists explain why some refuse to wear ...

 

 

Her behaviour though reminded me of the greatest problem that these Covid times presents:

A lack of consistency.

 

 

Information for patients and visitors concerning coronavirus ...

 

 

From 27 July to 6 August 2020, Ute (my wife) and I travelled to, from and around Canton Valais (part of French-speaking Romandie just north of Italy).

 

 

 

In Canton Thurgau (where we live) and Canton St. Gallen (where I have worked), the safety precautions against the spread and return of the Covid-19 pandemic seem more obviously practised and stricter than what we witnessed in Canton Valais.

In restaurants and shops no one seemed to be wearing masks.

The only instance of mask-wearing we saw in Valais was on public transport – the buses and trains.

In Thurgau and St. Gallen, many personnel wear masks.

 

Swiss cantons

 

In Germany, all public buildings require the wearing of masks.

 

 

In Switzerland, we believe that we have “flattened the curve” of Corona cases and the rules have become more and more relaxed since the nation was locked down from 17 March until 11 May.

But no one trusts that the pandemic is over.

 

COVID-19 Outbreak Cases in Switzerland by Canton.svg

Above: This image shows the number of corona virus (COVID-19) cases in Switzerland broken down by cantons as of 3 July 2020. 

The darker the area, the more cases therein.

 

As of 7 August 2020, in Canton St. Gallen, there remains 15 folks with the virus, in Thurgau only two, in Valais none at all.

Since the pandemic first appeared in Switzerland on 25 February 2020, there has been 31,652 confirmed cases, 29,200 recoveries and 1,682 deaths.

 

 

Flag of Switzerland

 

 

In the United States, since the corona virus first appeared on US soil on 13 January 2020, there has been nearly five million cases, nearly 1.6 million recoveries and nearly 160,000 deaths.

 

COVID-19 Prevalence in the United States by county.svg

Above: Map of the outbreak in the United States by total confirmed infections per 100,000 people (as of August 7).

The darker the area, the more cases therein.

 

 

Worldwide, as of 17:29 UTC on 7 August 2020, a total of 19,160,806 cases are confirmed in more than 227 countries and territories.

There are 6,839,609 active cases and 716,083 deaths.

 

COVID-19 Outbreak World Map per Capita.svg

Above: Map of the COVID-19 verified number of infected per capita as of 6 August 2020.

The darker the area, the more cases therein.

 

 

It is a divisive question in the States:

Should people still be on the Appalachian Trail?

 

 

 

 

No one questioned our legitimacy for walking the 100-km Chemin des Bisses (Swiss Trail #58) (Martigny to Grimentz) from 29 July to 5 August.

There was no obvious fear that we as hikers were infecting vulnerable Valais villages or that an injury would strain Swiss medical resources.

No one accused us of being “spreaders“.

 

 

Chemin des Bisses im Wallis: Trekkingtour zwischen Martigny und ...

 

 

There remains many countries on Switzerland’s quarantine list:

  • the United States
  • most of Central and South America
  • Spain
  • much of former Yugoslavia
  • parts of southern Africa
  • much of the Middle East
  • parts of Central Asia

 

 

 

As the lockdown seriously hurt the Swiss economy, residents and native Swiss alike have been encouraged to spend money and holidays within Swiss territory.

 

 

CHF 1000 9 front.jpg

 

 

Thus, spring found us hiking in Canton Graubünden and summer in Valais.

 

 

Trail Signs in the Swiss Alps | Switzerland Hiking Trails

 

 

On 16 April, Switzerland announced that the country would ease restrictions in a three-step, gradual way.

 

 

Embassy of Switzerland in Cameroon

 

 

The first step began on 27 April, for those who work in close contact with others, but not in large numbers.

Surgeons, dentists, day care workers, hairdressers, massage and beauty salons could be opened with safety procedures applied.

DIY stores, garden centres, florists and food shops that also sell other goods could also be opened.

 

The second step was to begin on 11 May, assuming implementation of the first step without problems, at which time other shops and schools could be opened.

 

The third step would begin on 8 June with the easing of restrictions on vocational schools, universities, museums, zoos and libraries.

 

Swiss government approves further easing of coronavirus ...

 

 

The Trump administration initially responded by declaring a public health emergency on 31 January.

 

Donald Trump official portrait.jpg

 

 

On 2 February, it began to prevent the entry of most foreign nationals who had recently traveled to China.

It did not ban entry of US residents who had been there.

 

 

Flag of China

 

 

No virus testing was implemented to screen those seeking to enter the country.

The initial US response to the pandemic was otherwise slow, in terms of preparing the healthcare system, stopping other travel, or testing for the virus.

 

 

CDC 2019-nCoV Laboratory Test Kit.jpg

 

 

Through 10 March, the US tested fewer than 10,000 people, in part because manufacturing defects rendered many government-developed test kits unusable and because commercial tests were disallowed by regulations.

 

Meanwhile, President Donald Trump downplayed the threat posed by the virus and claimed the outbreak was under control.

 

On 25 February, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) warned the American public for the first time to prepare for a local outbreak.

 

 

US CDC logo.svg

 

 

A national emergency was declared by President Trump on 13 March.

 

 

Flag of the United States

 

In early March, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) began allowing public health agencies and private companies to develop and administer tests, and loosened restrictions so anyone with a doctor’s order could be tested.

By the end of the month, more than a million people had been tested (1 per 320 inhabitants).

 

 

Logo of the United States Food and Drug Administration.svg

 

 

The Trump administration largely waited until mid-March to start purchasing large quantities of medical equipment.

In late March, the administration started to use the Defense Production Act to direct industries to produce medical equipment.

Federal health inspectors who surveyed hospitals in late March found shortages of test supplies, personal protective equipment (PPE) and other resources due to extended patient stays while awaiting test results.

 

 

Great Seal of the United States

 

 

By early May, the US had processed around 6.5 million tests and was conducting around 250,000 tests per day, but experts said this level of testing was still not enough to contain the outbreak.

 

The CDC warned that widespread disease transmission may force large numbers of people to seek healthcare, which could overload healthcare systems and lead to otherwise preventable deaths.

 

On 16 March, the White House advised against any gatherings of more than ten people.

 

 

Since 19 March 2020, the State Department has advised US citizens to avoid all international travel.

Travel restrictions on most foreign nationals who had recently traveled to Iran or 28 European countries were implemented in March.

 

U.S. Department of State official seal.svg

 

 

By 11 April, the federal government approved disaster declarations for all states and inhabited territories except American Samoa.

 

 

Location of American Samoa

Above: American Samoa (in red circle)

 

 

State and local responses to the outbreak have included prohibitions and cancellation of large-scale gatherings (including festivals and sporting events), stay-at-home orders, and the closure of schools.

 

Disproportionate numbers of cases have been observed among Black and Latino populations, and there were reported incidents of xenophobia and racism against Asian Americans.

 

Clusters of infections and deaths have occurred in urban areas, nursing homes, long-term care facilities, group homes for the intellectually disabled, detention centers (including prisons), meatpacking plants, churches, and navy ships.

Large gatherings that occurred before widespread shutdowns and social distancing measures were put in place, including Mardi Gras in New Orleans, accelerated transmission.

 

 

 

 

The second rise of infections began in June 2020, following relaxed restrictions in several states.

 

 

Which brings me back to the issue of consistency.

 

There seems to be no concrete plans, no unassailable facts, in dealing with the pandemic in a consistent fashion.

 

 

Not only in the United States, but everywhere else.

 

 

Personally, I don’t know what to believe, what’s right or wrong in relation to Covid.

All I know is if Covid is meant to claim my life….

I would rather die doing something I love.

 

 

Above: Sign seen on the Chemin des Bisses

 

 

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook / Bill Bryson, A Walk in the Woods / Robert Louis Stevenson, Travels with a Donkey in the Cévannes / Alan Yuhas, “Pandemic splinters a hiking community“, New York Times, 30 May 2020

 

 

 

 

 

Canada Slim and the Path of Seven Sorrows Maria

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Wednesday 24 June 2020

To walk abroad is, not with eyes,

But thoughts, the fields to see and prize.

Else may the silent feet,

Like logs of wood,

Move up and down, and see no good

Nor joy nor glory meet.

 

Even carts and wheels their place do change,

But cannot see, though very strange

The glory that is by.

Dead puppets may

Move in the bright and glorious day,

Yet not behold the sky.

 

And are not men than they more blind,

Who having eyes yet never find

The bliss in which they move.

Like statues dead,

They up and down are carried,

Yet never see nor love.

 

To walk is by a thought to go,

To move in spirit to and fro.

To mind the good we see,

To taste the sweet.

Observing all the things we meet,

How choice and rich they be.

 

To note the beauty of the day

And golden fields of corn survey.

Admire each pretty flower

With its sweet smell,

To praise their Maker and to tell

The marks of his great power.

 

To fly abroad like active bees

Among the hedges and the trees.

To cull the dew that lies

On every blade,

From every blossom, till we lade

Our minds, as they their thighs.

 

Observe those rich and glorious things,

The rivers, meadows, woods and springs,

The fructifying sun.

To note from far

The rising of each twinkling star,

For us his race to run.

 

A little child these well perceives,

Who, tumbling in green grass and leaves,

May rich as kings be thought,

But there’s a sight

Which perfect manhood may delight,

To which we shall be brought.

 

While in those pleasant paths we talk,

‘Tis that towards which at last we walk,

For we may by degrees

Wisely proceed.

Pleasures of love and praise to heed,

From viewing herbs and trees.”

 

Stained glass in the cathedral - geograph.org.uk - 615756.jpg

Above: Stained glass window portrait of poet Thomas Traherne (1636 – 1674)

 

Are not our lives improving?

 

Swiss people who love their sofas have finally left them.

 

 

Those who wish to publicly declare their commitment to each other can now buy wedding rings in open jewellery shops across open borders.

 

 

It is astonishing that the rational Swiss who have wisely locked down the nation and safely eased the restrictions that protected the nation, a land where soldiers donate food to the hungry, this is a country where every third Swiss believes that the corona virus was manufactured in a Chinese laboratory.

 

 

Sales have multiplied and demonstrators are strongly discouraged from exercising their right to assemble.

 

 

Freedom fights fear and fear is a foe fought futilely.

 

Flickr - USCapitol - Franklin D. Roosevelt's First Inauguration.jpg

Above: Inauguration ceremony of US President Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882 – 1945) on 4 March 1933, wherein he said: “The only thing to fear is fear itself.

 

 

Ladies of the evening are encouraged to offer their pleasures for profit, while Koreans see sex dolls acting as surrogate spectators in games they cannot attend.

 

Prostitution knallhart: Frauen bieten sich in Zürich für 20 Franken an

 

Are not our lives improving?

 

The World Health Organization warns Europe of a second corona virus wave, while no vaccine has been developed to successfully bury the first wave.

 

World Health Organization Logo.svg

 

Party people are tired of being in quarantine and regardless of distance rules and assembly bans, the night is calling and the streets seduce with nuanced neon of normalcy.

 

Das sagt die Polizei zur Basler Partynacht

 

Borders are raised like skirts of lady hitchhikers seeking travellers to improve their situations.

 

Above: Claudette Colbert (1903 – 1996) and Clark Gable (1901 – 1960) hitchhiking in the 1934 film It Happened One Night

 

 

At least we in Switzerland admit that people have died here from Covina-19, but in Russia and in lands that end with “-stan” the mere acknowledgement of this invisible enemy is to suggest that those with power may be powerless against a pandemic.

 

COVID-19 Outbreak World Map per Capita.svg

Above: Map of the COVID-19 verified number of infected per capita as of 23 June 2020. Since this is a rapidly evolving situation, new cases may not be immediately represented visually. Refer to the primary article 2019–20 coronavirus pandemic or the World Health Organization’s situation reports for most recent reported case information. Every country larger than 3 million km² or with a bigger population than 200 million people has been split up into its first level administrative division for better visualization of the spread of the epidemic.  The darker the area, the more cases therein.

 

 

Here in Switzerland we have learned to conceal the poor and the homeless to the point that they are easy to ignore, while in Spain, where the pain is quite plain, the corona crisis has driven many people into poverty and lines as long as snakes wait outside soup kitchens and homeless shelters.

 

Coronavirus fallout: Hunger queues in Madrid in wake of COVID-19 ...

 

The Americans blame everyone but themselves, including the WHO, the organization best suited to assist them.

 

Flag of the United States

 

Planes fly again, though not so full, not so frequent.

 

 

In Japan, stay-at-home quarantined men are finally beginning to understand the stark inequalities between men and women in domestic chore sharing, while in England men mourn the inability to drown their maritality misery in a pint at the pub.

 

How Do You Say Dad In Japanese? Many Ways! - Japanese Tactics

 

For some, husbands at home are a horrible hell, while for others the silver lining of being at home with family has made observing life as a richer and deeper spiritual experience than they had ever imagined.

 

Norm Peterson Cheers Motion Picture.png

Above: George Wendt (Norm Peterson), Cheers

 

But here in this alpine Arcadia, this Swiss symphony sees concrete bunkers filled with poetry and empty tombs of eternal art.

Art, poetry, music and literature outlive and outshine the sheen, the contentious political veneer that is cast over everything.

 

 

Civilized life, you know, is based on a huge number of illusions in which we all collaborate willingly.

The trouble is we forget after a while that they are illusions and so we are deeply shocked when reality is torn down around us.

 

Ballard in 1993

Above: Writer J.G. (James Graham) Ballard (1930 – 2009)

 

We have once again become collectors of the commonplace, enthusiasts of the everyday.

We fool ourselves into believing that those who hunger for a return to normal must have had normalcy at sometime in the past, must have believed that what they had was “normal“.

 

abnormal is the new normal - Post by january_zn on Boldomatic

 

 

Are not our lives improving?

 

 

But how is returning to the status quo an improvement?

Unless we start afresh with things, we can certainly do nothing effective.

Our real voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes, but rather in having new eyes for the familar.

Perhaps our desire to escape the confines of home has made us too presumptious in our easing of restrictions, too unwise and untimely.

We are all so eager to return back to “normal” that we have no true appreciation of the “normal” just outside our doors.

 

 

Mammern to Eschenz, Switzerland, Tuesday 19 May 2020

Imagine a lake shaped like a fish, and like a fish’s body imagine that lake divide itself into two halves: an upper fin and a lower fin.

Such is the shape of the Bodensee (Lake of Constance).

 

Bodensee satellit.jpg

 

Lake Constance (German: Bodensee) refers to three bodies of water on the Rhine River at the northern foot of the Alps: the Obersee or Upper Lake Constance, the Untersee or Lower Lake Constance, and a connecting stretch of the Rhine, called the Seerhein.

These waterbodies lie within the Lake Constance Basin (Bodenseebecken), which is part of the Alpine Foreland and through which the Rhine flows.

The lake is situated where Germany, Switzerland and Austria meet.

Its shorelines lie in the German states of Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg, the Swiss cantons of St. Gallen, Thurgau and Schaffhausen, and the Austrian state of Vorarlberg.

The Rhine flows into the lake from the south, with its original course forming the Austro-Swiss border, and has its outflow on the Lower Lake where — except for Schaffhausen — it forms the German-Swiss border until the city of Basel.

The most populous cities on the lake are Constance (German: Konstanz), Friedrichshafen, Radolfzell, Bregenz and Lindau.

The largest islands are Reichenau in the Lower Lake, and Lindau and Mainau in the Upper Lake.

 

Karte Bodensee.png

 

Above the bay of the heavenly Untersee I went walking….

 

 

There are many colleagues and companions of mine who avoid the practice of walking whenever possible.

They argue that if the Lord Almighty had meant us to walk, surely He would have kept us down on all fours, with well-padded paws.

And He sure as Hell would not have made mountains.

An argument similar to….

If God had meant us to fly, He would have given us wings.

 

Michelangelo - Creation of Adam (cropped).jpg

Above: The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel, Vatican City by Michelangelo (1475 – 1564)

 

 

Folks tell me how unnatural it is to walk.

Why walk when you can drive?

As if surrounding yourself in a metal box and hurtling yourself down a highway is somehow natural.

 

Three-wide multiple row back.JPG

 

People say I’m crazy, doing what I’m doing.

Walking uphill?

It’s not only unnatural, it’s unnecessary.

Hop in a car, ride the cables, fly over them.

That iron tug of gravitation should be all the reminder we need that in walking uphill we are violating a basic law of nature.

 

9 Tips for How to Walk Uphill

 

Yet I persist in defying gravity under my own power.

Fatigue and blisters, be damned.

 

 

Why climb a mountain when we could simply level it?

 

China flattens mountains in a bid to make room for its growing ...

 

But my common sense continues to lag behind modern technology.

 

A friend tells me the tale of a scenic train ride she took in Sri Lanka and I find myself thinking of how much more scenic walking that route would have been.

 

An intercity train, the Udarata Menike, runs through the scenic Sri Lankan hill country

 

We sacrifice our freedom and wonder in the name of speed and convenience.

Love letters lie unwritten in a world where emojis excite.

We endure cramped conditions and frightening speeds and call ourselves civilized.

Our bodies rush through life leaving our souls behind.

And thus life can teach us nothing, for in our haste to reach our destination we have forgotten that there are lessons of experience that only journeys reveal.

 

Life is a journey, not a destination." quote | Life is a journey ...

 

As Edward Abbey so aptly puts it:

The longest journey begins with a single step, not with the turn of an ignition key.

That’s the best thing about walking, the journey itself.

It doesn’t much matter if you get where you’re going or not.

You’ll get there anyway.

 

Edward Abbey.jpg

Above: Edward Abbey (1927 – 1989)

 

During my “walking days” when I would try and explain to occasional journalists why I was walking, they all asked about goals and when I expected to reach that distant destination.

 

 

 

Was I someone kind of Terry Fox, seeking to raise money and awareness of some noteworthy cause?

I am not worthy to even tie Terry’s shoes.

 

A young man with short, curly hair and an artificial right leg runs down a street. He wears shorts and a T-shirt that reads "Marathon of Hope"

Above: Terry Fox (1958 – 1981)

 

Was I trying to set some sort of a record?

 

Guinness World Records logo.svg

 

Why?

Did I have to prove myself to others, as if the journey had to meet others’ standards?

 

ISO Logo (Red square).svg

 

What did it matter if I never set foot on Middle Island?

I experienced Pelee Island without needing to seek permission from a private landowner to set foot on his Island, a spot on the map significant only for being arbitrarily the southernmost point of Canada.

 

 

I walked to discover the country.

I walked to discover myself.

I may not have reached where I was aiming for, but I experienced where I was.

And I was always somewhere.

 

A projection of North America with Canada highlighted in green

 

As William Hazlitt writes:

The soul of a journey is liberty, perfect liberty, to think, to feel, to do just as one pleases.

We go on a journey chiefly to be free of all impediments and of all inconveniences.

To leave ourselves behind, much more to get rid of others.

 

A self-portrait from about 1802

Above: Self-portrait of William Hazlitt (1778 – 1830)

 

I interpret Hazlitt’s “ourselves” as the selves others suggest we assume for their comfort, for their ease in assigning you to a pigeonhole they can comprehend.

 

 

But who are we?

By living our lives to others’ expectations….

 

Are not our lives improving?

 

How can we measure improvement if we do not even know who we are?

How can we know life if we haven’t lived?

 

Walking takes longer than any other form of locomotion except crawling.

And, truth be told, the more I age, the longer the journey takes to accomplish.

But because walking is slow, thus it stretches time, it gives a man peace to think and thus it prolongs life.

 

 

Life is too short to waste on speed.

We are in such a hurry to leave here to get there, that here and there could be anywhere.

And where we are is in transit, neither here nor there, we are nowhere.

 

Talking Heads - Road to Nowhere.jpg

 

Walking makes the world bigger and thus more interesting.

You have time to notice the miracle of life, the wonder of existence, the magic of place.

 

 

It is May when I do the walk which I now describe and spring has sprung.

 

 

The plan is to take a wonderous spring tour through the lush green Tobel Forest and over the lavish bloom of the Untersee fruit slopes in search of the intensity of experience.

 

 

 

And the pilgrimage chapel of Sieben Schmerzen Mariä (Seven Sorrows Maria) is particularly popular as a hiking destination, as the nearby Klingenzellerhof Restaurant by the Mammerner Hochwacht (high watch) is a grand viewpoint above the bay.

 

 

I make a late start as I am distracted by writing and reading at home, followed by a stop in Romanshorn to pick up my daily newspapers and another stop in Stein am Rhein to visit a much-beloved, once-a-year-visited bookshop that seems to be the only place I can pick up Swiss author Peter Stamm’s works translated into English.

I arrive, three trains later, at a Station too familiar, Mammern.

 

White two story building with arched roof and a wooden shelter

 

Two years ago I had an accident.

I fell down and shattered my left wrist and right elbow.

I spent two weeks in hospital in the City of St. Gallen where the accident had occurred.

But having both arms in slings meant I was fairly helpless fending for myself alone in our apartment while my wife, a doctor, was at work.

It was arranged that I would spend a month at the Mammern Clinic until I recovered sufficiently to be more independent at home.

 

 

 

Mammern, Switzerland, Friday 18 May 2018

Facebook entry:

Greetings from Mammern…

A castle, a resort and hospital directly by the Rhine River.

It serves the wealthy and average Thurgau patients….

And never the twain shall meet.

The place has everything a luxury hotel has, but the residents are too ill, too injured or too ancient to enjoy it.

There is even a deer park here!

It’s a pleasurable transition between hospital and home.

Here for next two to three weeks.

 

 

 

Mammern, Switzerland, Thursday 24 May 2018

Facebook entry:

Despite my accident I have already broken three records here at the Schloss Mammern Klinik:
1. I am the Klinik’s first Canadian patient.
2. I am the youngest patient here.
3. I am the first patient here to have broken both arms.
Hurrah?
Started Ergotherapy and Physiotherapy on Tuesday and I am already starting to see progress.
Wife bought hammock for our balcony, but I will have to lose 20 kilos to use it.
Damn clever girl knows how to manipulate this man!
Change is hard for a guy.
Sigh.

 

 

 

Visitors are given several opportunities on the hike from Mammern to Eschenz to find out what powerful effects pictures have on cultural sites and how controversial they are when the cult is changed.

 

 

 

Surrounded by orchards, the small spa and recreation resort of Mammern lies on a headland stretching into the Untersee.

Mammern was first mentioned in 909 as “Manburon” when it was acquired by St. Gallen Abbey, but Mammern excavation finds suggest that settlement was already here in the Neolithic Age, then by the Celts.

In 2009, the almost 600 citizens of Mammern celebrated the village’s 1,000th anniversary.

 

Gasthaus zum Adler und katholische Kirche

 

Sometime before 1275, St. Gallen Abbey built a church here.

Next to the church there are beautifully restored houses in the middle of this wee village.

 

 

Mammern over the centuries changed hands more than a high stakes poker game.

In 1319, the Abbey pawned the village to the Lords of Kastell (nearby Tägerwilen) as a fief.

The imposing castle complex on the Seerücken that resulted still seems to rule over the village today.

 

Klinikansicht - SW!SS REHA - die Vereinigung der führender ...

 

In 1522, Hans Leonhard von Rorschach bought Mammern.

It was sold several times in the following century, until 1621 when Johann Friedrich Thumb passed the land onto the Rall brothers who rebuilt the Castle.

In 1667, Mammern was acquired by Wolf Rudolf Reding, who in turn sold it in 1687 to Rheinau Abbey.

Rheinau held Mammern until 1798.

Until 1992, Mammern was part of the municipality of nearby Steckborn.

Since then, Mammern has been its own municipality.

 

Wappen von Mammern

 

The economy of Mammern has been characterized by forestry, livestock and dairy farming and viticulture.

Other occupations have included fishing, taverns, mills, bricks and lime.

From 1878 until 1940 there was a furniture factory.

In 1865, a hydropathic (water cure) clinic was opened in the Castle.

In 1889, the Castle was acquired by Oscar Ullmann, who turned it into a clinic specializing (still) in the rehabilitation of patients with cardiovascular and metabolic conditions.

In 1910, a match factory opened in the Village, but I don’t know if it is still there.

Perhaps it burnt down?

 

 

My time in Mammern was not totally unpleasant, but Mammern represented a desire to recover from my wounds and return home as soon as it was permitted.

It was suggested that I remain on clinic grounds for my own benefit, for had I further injured myself off castle property my health insurance would not cover the expenses, but my mind was restless in rehabiliation so I fled the grounds when I could.

 

 

 

I read of the history of Mammern in the Clinic’s library, but the only character that caught my attention was that of August Bach (1869 – 1950).

Bach, the son of a farmer, was an educator who taught in primary and secondary schools in Kreuzlingen, Wagenhausen, Stein am Rhein and Müllheim.

From 1906, Bach, as a school inspector for the canton of Thurgau, tried to transfer the teaching methods that he had tested where he had taught to both private and state schools.

Bach developed teaching and visualization tools as well as experimental methods for independent learning, which were distributed in teacher training courses across the country.

Sometime after 1906, Bach acquired Kefikon Castle, on the border where Thurgau Canton meets Canton Zürich, where he and his Mrs., Rosalia, built a country educational home, and where they are both buried.

What Bach’s methods were, the Clinic’s library would not reveal.

 

Do You Know the Difference Between School and Education? —

 

So, I turned my attention elsewhere.

 

Stop worshipping all the Saints, of whom there is no word in the Bible.“, is what those who followed the teachings of the reformers Martin Luther (1483 – 1546) and Huldrych Zwingli (1484 – 1531) wanted.

And so they stormed the churches, tore images from the walls and figures of the Saints from the altars.

 

 

In Mammern, Reformers burned almost everything they had taken from St. Blaise’s Church on the street afterwards.

Only the wooden statue of Blaise dared not burn.

So the Protestants threw the figure of Blaise into the Lake.

 

Kirche Mammern ( Gotteshaus katholisch - Baujahr 1913 - Ge… | Flickr

 

Who would have imagined that those who continued to adhere to the Catholic fiath would fish the figure out of the water and later tell the story that Blaise swam across the Lake to the other bank of the Katterhorn?

That over there, the Catholic Lord of St. Blaise would even build a Chapel so that he could be worshipped in Katterhorn?

 

 

 

Just as Blaise reappeared in the dispute over the Reformation and Counter Reformation – surounded by miraculous legends – so new colourful images were needed to impress and motivate people to return to the traditional Catholic faith.

 

 

In order to achieve this, Abbot Bernhard II of Rheinau, ordered that a new Chapel be built at Mammern Castle and be equipped with three altars as huge and practical as those found in the Rheinau Monastery Church.

 

 

The dilemma was:

How should all of this fit into such a small Chapel that resulted?

I asked myself this as I approached, yet again, the Castle Chapel.

 

 

Step inside!

You will be amazed!

Everything is painted!

 

 

Of course, a master builder was involved.

None other than Johann Michael Beer von Bildstein (1696 – 1780), the famous Bregenzwälder Baroque master, who later also produced the striking double tower facade of the St. Gallen Monastery Church.

 

Convent of St Gall.jpg

 

In this simple church hall, expanded by two small cross arms, the three altars find little space, but despite this there is no feeling of crampedness within, for Franz Ludwig Herrmann picked up his brush, conjured escapes for the eyes and populated every tiny permissable crevice with countless figures.

 

 

Allow your eyes to explore, to indulge themselves, from shape to shape, to finally rest their focus on Maria, who hovers on the ceiling of the cross dome above everyone.

 

To those who hike around the Bodensee, the works of Herrmann are no stranger to our senses.

We encounter his work in the Franciscan Church in Überlingen, the parish church of Bernhardzell and the Church of St. Ulrich and St. Afra in Kreuzlingen.

 

 

I often visited the tiny baroque palace Chapel during my convalescence – a separate building behind the Castle, enlarged in 1749 and provided with a Marian picture program to put a finishing touch behind reforming efforts in Mammern – to hear concerts twice a week, but beyond that there seemed little to excite my attention in Mammern.

 

 

 

During this recovery exile, I rode the train to Steckborn, Berlingen and Stein am Rhein, I took the ferry across to Gaienhofen, Germany, all in the name of culture to see what these towns offered, but I was always consequent to never miss a therapy session or fail to return back before curfew.

The Clinic was a comfortable gilded cage, but a cage nonetheless.

I took a risk that I could injure myself exploring the local region, but I minimized the risks as much as I could.

For the cardio patients, the Clinic organized hikes up to the Sieben Schmerzen Mariä Church and, above the town, to the ruins of the Neuburg, once the largest castle on the Untersee, but I was not permitted to join them.

 

 

This day (19 May), the second anniversary of the day I entered Schloss Klinik Mammern to begin my rehab, I thought I would do a hike previously denied me.

 

 

 

From Mammern Station, I walk across the tracks and follow signs for “Amenhusen“.

Amenhusen Swiss Family Garden Flags A9 |Home Decor| 1sttheworld ...

(I am not certain whether Amenhusen refers to houses where “Amen” is said, for Swiss German is not as easy for me to decipher as High German, which is the German I learned.

For Swiss German can be deceiving.

Take, as an example, the name of the town from whence many of my blogs are written: Landschlacht.

In High German, “Landschlacht” would translate to “battlefield“, but in the local dialect, “Landschlacht” means “sheltering land“.)

 

 

At the end of the village of Mammern (now with a population of 654), I leave the road to follow a forest path to my right, a trail that caresses the banks of the Eggmülibach (Mill Slope Creek).

I begin to ascend from Mammern’s 410 metres above sea level towards Hochwacht at 590 metres.

The path traverses a shaded ravine.

From the Eggmüli estate, the trail is transformed from a traffic-free road, to an agricultural passage to the thinnest of paths leading to the Hochwacht (high watch) viewpoint.

Belonging to nearby Hohenklingen Castle, the High Watch served as both boundary post and fire guard.

Down below, the deep blue Untersee defines the foot of Schiener Mountain.

 

 

 

An old observation bunker (Artillery Observation Bunker A5600) remains semi-hidden in a small group of birch trees.

A5600 is part of the Border Line defences of Switzerland constructed in the late 1930s in response to increasing tensions between Switzerland and its Axis neighbours Germany and Italy.

 

Art Stel Rothenthurm - festung-oberland.ch

 

The Border Line was planned to slow or hold an invading force at the border.

It consisted of a series of bunkers spaced at short intervals along the Austrian, French and German borders.

They were spaced between 500 metres (1,600 ft) and 750 metres (2,460 ft) along the northern border of Switzerland.

A number were integrated into bridge crossings of the Rhine and other rivers.

 

 

The Alps themselves guarded the Italian frontier.

The bunkers were reinforced by larger multi-blockhouse forts at key points.

Most of the positions were within two or three kilometres of the borders.

 

 

The large forts were armed with 75mm artillery and anti-tank weapons, and were usually built into the forward slope of a hill.

The blockhouses were connected and supported by an underground gallery system giving access and shelter to underground barracks, ammunition magazines, comman posts and utility services.

 

 

Work on the Border Line began in 1937 and was completed by 1940.

However, with the German invasion of France in 1940, it became clear to the Swiss Armed Forces that the Border Line could not deter nor withstand a direct German attack.

Swiss priorities shifted to a policy of quick withdrawl to the National Redoubt in the Alps, there to maintain a government-in-hiding and to control the strategic crossings of the Alps for an extended time.

 

 

(The National Redoubt encompassed a widely distributed set of fortifications on a general east-west line through the Alps, centering on three major fortress complexes: Fortresses St. Maurice, St. Gotthard and Sargans.

These fortresses primarily defended the alpine crossings between Germany and Italy and were outside the industrialized and populated regions of Switzerland.

These regions were defended by the Border Line and the Army Position somewhat farther back.

 

 

While not intended as an impassable barrier, these lines contained significant fortifications, but the National Redoubt was planned as a nearly impregnable complex of fortifications that would deny an aggressor passage over or through the Alps by controlling the major mountain passes and railway tunnels running north-to-south through the region.

This strategy was intended to deter an invasion altogether by denying Switzerland’s crucial transportation infrastructure to an aggressor.

The National Redoubt has been the subject of debate in Swiss society, with many fortifications decommissioned by the early 21st century.)

 

 

While Germany’s Operation Tannenbaum set forth a plan to invade Switzerland, the Operation was never carried out.

 

Durchmarschpläne IMG 1701.JPG

 

So the Swiss war plan, devised by General Henri Guisan (1874 – 1960), envisioning the use of the Border Line as a delaying position, backed by a further hold line, the Army Position, allowing the bulk of Swiss forces time to retreat to the Redoubt, was never utilized.

 

Guisan Visp 1942 D2.8916.jpg

 

Once up, then down, the path descends towards Klingenzell, the distant town of Stein am Rhein beckons in the distance on a clear day.

On this ridge in Canton Thurgau, the path becomes a road and all of a sudden the Sieben Schmerzen Mariä is before me.

From up here there is a magnificent view of the Untersee, the water of which flows into the Rhine at Stein.

 

 

The priory was founded in the Middle Ages by the Lords of Hohenklingen (whose headquarters was Hohenklingen Castle above Stein am Rhein).

Klingenzell appears for the first time in written form in 1333, in a deed issued by two archbishops and 14 bishops from Avignon, then the seat of the Papacy.

 

Wallfahrtskapelle Klingenzell | Erlebnisregion Ostschweiz & Bodensee

 

Legend has it that Lord Walter von Klingen was attacked by a wounded wild boar while hunting in these woods above Mammern.

 

20160208054949!Wildschein, Nähe Pulverstampftor (cropped).jpg

 

In great pain and distress, Walter cried out: “Maria, help!

And he vowed to build a Chapel in gratitude for his salvation by the Blessed Mother.

This pilgrimage church was consecrated to the Mother of Sorrows Mary in 1705.

 

 

 

Her seven sorrows, for those not of the Catholic persuasion, are:

  • The prophecy of Simeon in the Temple

 

 

  • The flight to Egypt

 

 

  • The loss of the Child Jesus in the Temple of Jerusalem

 

 

 

 

  • Meeting her son Jesus on the Via Dolorosa, Jerusalem

 

 

  • The Crucifixion

 

Cristo crucificado.jpg

 

  • The piercing of Jesus with a spear and the lowering of his body from the cross

 

 

  • The burial of Jesus by Joseph of Aramathea

 

 

Her feast is celebrated on the Friday after the 5th Sunday of Lent.

 

Salamanca - Iglesia de la Vera Cruz 12.jpg

 

Walter, who built and equipped the Chapel handed it over to the St. Georgen Monastery in Stein am Rhein in 1336, assured that his soul had been saved by this foundation.

 

 

Isn’t it fortunate that believers today can conceive of a gracious God and that they can hike to this beautiful place for their edification?

 

In the small Chapel, rebuilt in 1705, there is a simple Gothic carving from the early 14th century.

It is a depiction of Mary holding her dead son on her lap.

This Gothic carved figure, which has received numerous requests since its installation, can still be found on the right side altar of the Chapel.

Pilgrims have witnessed this scene for centuries and not only prayed to Mary for her divine intercession with her Son for their salvation, but as well they sought her wisdom for more worldly worries.

 

Klingenzell Wallfahrtskirche Sieben Schmerzen Mariä (Innenansicht ...

 

Mourning Mary and her fallen son are flanked by two baroque figures.

 

On the right we find a local saint, Gebhard, the founder of the Petershausen Abbey, who is holding a model of this in his hand.

 

 

 

According to the legend, Gebhard (949 – 995) brought a precious relic to Konstanz:

 

 

The head of Pope Gregory the Great (540 – 604), who we find depicted on the left of the image of grace, recognizable by his papal headgear.

 

 

On the left side of the Chapel, the altar there also tells tales of the local history.

The Lady Kunigunde (980 – 1033), with a church in her hand, is identified as the founder, along with her husband Emperor Heinrich II (973 – 1024), of the St. Georgen Monastery in Stein am Rhein.

 

 

A look up at the altar’s coat of arms shows us the two owners of the Chapel: the St. Georgen Monastery symbolized by the dragon conqueror St. George and the Petershausen Monastery (from 1581 to 1597) symbolized by two fish.

 

Klingenzell, der Innenraum der Wallfahrtskirche "Sieben Schmerzen ...

 

The two figures on the main altar are worshipped far beyond the Lake Constance Region: Saint Scholastica (480 – 543) and her twin brother Saint Benedict (480 – 547).

 

 

Benedict is the more appreciated of the two and is remembered by many monks for his instructions on monastic life.

But lay people (those who have not given their lives in service to the Church) who have come to Klingenzell expect something completely different from Benedict.

They hope for the magic power of his words.

 

Benedict of Nursia.jpg

 

Would you like to learn them too?

To do this, you must leave the Chapel and look up at the sundial painted on the gable of the south facing wall.

Benedict’s Cross forms part of this sundial.

Vertically across the Cross is written the letters “CSSML”, which are the first letters of each word of the Latin sentence:

Crux sancta sit mihi vana” – “The Cross is my light.

Horizontally is written “NDSMP“:

Non draco sit mihi dux” – “You, devil, don’t seduce me.

Around the circle one reads “VRSN / SMV / SMQ / LIVB“.

Vade retro Satana. Non / suadeas mihi vana / Sunt mala quae / libas. Ipse venena bibas” – “Get behind me, Satan.  I will not follow your council. You are the worst. You are poison to me.

 

 

Below the Klingenzell Seven Sorrows Mariä Chapel, a 12-station Way of the Cross was built, which leads past a grotto descending down to Mammern.

 

Wallfahrtskapelle Klingenzell | Gaienhofen

 

At the Lourdes Grotto, built from stones of the Chapel, is seen the figure of Bernadette, who was said to have witnessed several apparitions of Mary in Lourdes, is kneeling in front of a portrait of Our Lady.

A candle lights up the figure.

Flowers adorn the scene.

 

Untersee-Höhenweg über Mammern • Wanderung » outdooractive.com

 

I return to the chapel and walk 800 metres west to Freudenfels Castle on a rock spur above the Untersee.

Freudenfels Castle belongs to the municipality of Eschenz and it was probably built in the 12th century by the Lords of Eschenz as a defensive and residential tower.

With the Hohenklingen and Oberstaad Castles, Freudenfels served as part of a weir (a series of water dams) system used to secure the traffic junction near Stein am Rhein.

At the same time, the court of Freudenfels, also administered from here, acted as a system of law and order in the region.

After numerous changes of ownership, the castle and titles of Freudenfels came into the possession of the monastery in Einsiedeln in 1623.

Since 1996, Freudenfels Castle has been leased to the Princely House of Liechtenstein, who through their Liechtenstein Academy Foundation, uses the Castle as an events location for parties and seminars.

 

 

 

A forest path takes me to a dirt road which leads me completely downhill to the Untersee village of Eschenz.

 

Eschenz mit Werd.JPG

 

Werd Island and the Seeäcker (lake fields) northeast of Eschenz have shown extensive finds, including a gold cup (2000 BC) and a Gallo-Roman wooden figure (AD 60).

 

Goldbecher

 

Numerous horse bridle components suggest that Werd Island was a shipment transferral port.

In the early 1st century, Romans built a village (Tasgetium) here with a wooden bridge over to Werd Island and across the Lake.

 

 

In the 4th century, a fort was built in “Vor der Brugg” (today’s Stein am Rhein) as a frontier fort.

 

Above: Stein am Rhein and Hohenklingen Castle

 

The inhabitants lived from agriculture, livestock and fishing.

When the Romans left after AD 400, the Alemanni grabbed the land.

Little is known about the time up to the 10th century, except that Ottmar (689 – 759), the first abbot of the Benedictine Abbey of St. Gallen, spent the last months of his exile on Werd Island and died there in AD 759.

 

Above: St. Otmar (with abbot staff and wine barrel) on the guild flag of the Modling winegrowers (1755)

 

At that time, a predecessor of the Romanesque Chapel (that is still extant on the Island) must have existed.

As a result, Werd Island became a place of pilgrimage.

 

 

In AD 799, Eschenz was first mentioned as “Exsientia“.

 

In AD 958, King Otto I (912 – 973) gave the very young Benedictine monastery of Einsiedeln the church on Werd Island.

 

 

The parish of Eschenz was incorporated in 1362 under Einsiedeln Monastery.

 

 

During the Reformation (1525–1529) the municipality converted to the new faith.

In the course of the 1560s the Counter-Reformation entered the village and converted the villagers back to the Roman Catholic faith.

A Protestant minority population remained and they became part of the parish of Burg.

The cemetery was used equally by both faiths until 1690.

 

Above: Mariä Himmelfahrt (ascension to Heaven) Church, Eschenz

 

In 1851 the village of Hüttwilen separated from Eschenz to form an independent municipality was located beyond the lake crest.

In 1835, a paper mill opened in Eschenz.

Around the end of the 19th century, animal husbandry and agriculture replaced viticulture and fishing as the major industries.

With the exception of Unipektin AG (80 jobs), which operates in the food industry, there is no industry in Eschenz.

 

About UNIPEKTIN Ingredients AG.

 

The village of Eschenz itself (population: 1,743) is unremarkable.

Nearby Werd Island, Freudenfels Castle and the pilgrimage chapel of St. Otmar on the Island are worth visiting, which I have done in the past both alone and accompanied by my wife.

 

Above: Gasthof Zum Raben (Guesthouse of the Grapes), Eschenz

 

Eschenz was the birthplace of Paul Joseph von Beroldingen (1754 – 1831) as well as (still-kicking) painters Hans Niederhauser and Richard Tisserand.

From what little I’ve read and the least I’ve understood, I believe Beroldingen was a spy….

 

 

After completing his law studies at the University of Göttingen (Germany), Beroldingen entered the employ of the Principality of Ellwangen.

 

 

When Ellwangen was incorporated into the state of Württemberg, Beroldingen joined the civil service.

In 1806, he became the royal Württemberg secret adviser and envoy to the Viennese court.

In 1817, Beroldingen became the first Chamberlain and Chief Court Master of Queen Catherine of Württemberg (Katharina Pawlowna) (1788 – 1819) and later also Chief Court Master of Queen Pauline of Württemberg (1800 – 1873).

 

Above: Katharina Pawlowna

 

Above: Pauline von Württemberg

 

From 1815 to 1819, Beroldingen was a member of the State Assmbly of the Kingdom of Württemberg.

After the death of childless Baron Franz Konrad von Ratzenried in 1813, the Baron’s nephew Beroldingen inherited the Ratzenried Castle in Argenbühl near Ravensburg.

However, he rarely lived at the Castle due to the demand of his duties….

 

File:Schloss Ratzenried GO-1.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

Above: Ratzenreid Castle, Ravensburg

 

 

Near the western side of the bay, I stroll into the village of Eschenz via the railroad.

I cross the main street into Brüelweg (Brüel Way), a business street signposted to Mammern and reach the Waldbüel district.

After crossing the main street and the railway again, the Trail goes slightly uphill between the lower class neighbourhoods.

A dreamy stroll and soon I am in the hamlet of Halden and within 25 minutes I am back at Mammern Station.

 

 

 

The Lake Constance area has a long history and a special charisma.

A walk along the Lake opens up legendary places, characterized by their location and historical significance, which cannot be experienced if rushed past or sped by.

A walk along the Lake leads to holy places, to stilt houses, through gorges and glaciers, to magical springs, mysterious pagan caves and places for burnt offerings.

The baroque churches that surround Lake Constance like a string of pearls invite you to contemplate and bring you closer to those who shaped the history of the Bodensee.

Here the walker finds medicinal herb gardens and heavenly apples and divine wine to taste.

 

 

Until the 19th century, Lake Constance was a natural lake.

Since then, nature has been heavily influenced by clearing and the cultivation of much of the land around its shores.

However, some near-natural areas have been largely conserved, especially in the nature reserves, or were re-naturalised.

As a result, the Lake Constance region has some unusual ecological features.

 

 

These include the large forested area on the Bodanrück, the occurrence of marsh gentian and orchids in the Wollmatinger Ried, and the Siberian iris (Iris sibirica) in the Eriskircher Ried, which was therefore given its own name.

 

Sibirische Schwertlilie, Iris sibirica 06.JPG

 

One unique species among the local flora is the Lake Constance forget-me-not (Myosotis rehsteineri), whose habitat is restricted to undisturbed beaches of lime trees.

 

Lake constance forget me not Stock Photos and Images | agefotostock

 

Lake Constance is also the home of numerous bird species, many of which nest in its nature reserves, such as the Wollmatinger Ried or the Mettnau peninsula.

412 species have so far been recorded.

 

 

The ten most common breeding bird species at Lake Constance according to a 2000–2003 survey in descending order are the:

  • blackbird

Common Blackbird.jpg

 

  • chaffinch

Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs).jpg

 

  • house sparrow

Passer domesticus male (15).jpg

 

  • great tit

The bird has a black head with a prominent white cheek, a greenish back, a blue wing with a prominent white bar, and a yellowish belly.

 

  • blackcap

A grey bird with a black cap and an open bill

 

  • starling

Lamprotornis hildebrandti -Tanzania-8-2c.jpg

 

  • robin

Erithacus rubecula with cocked head.jpg

 

  • chiffchaff

Chiffchaff - Phylloscopus collybita.jpg

 

  • greenfinch

European Greenfinch male female.jpg

 

  • blue tit.

Eurasian blue tit Lancashire.jpg

 

In spring, the Lake Constance is an important breeding ground, especially for the coot and great crested grebe.

 

Eurasian Coot - Penrith.jpg

 

Great Crested Grebe 1 - Penrith.jpg

 

Typical waterfowl include the:

  • shoveler

Northern shoveler Steve Sinclair outreach use only (19838806616).jpg

 

  • goldeneye

Common Goldeneye (Bucephala clangula).jpg

 

  • goosander

Mergus merganser -Sandwell -England -male-8.jpg

 

  • pochard

Aythya ferina Sandwell 2.jpg

 

  • grey heron

Graureiher Grey Heron.jpg

 

  • pintail

Northern Pintails (Male & Female) I IMG 0911.jpg

 

  • tufted duck

Tufted-Duck-male-female.jpg

 

  • mallard

Anas platyrhynchos male female quadrat.jpg

 

In December 2014, 1,389 cormorant were counted.

 

Microcarbo melanoleucos Austins Ferry 3.jpg

 

The International Lake Constance Fishery Association (IBF) estimates the food requirements of the cormorants on Lake Constance at 150 tonnes of fish annually.

Lake Constance is an important overwintering area for around 250,000 birds annually.

Bird species such as the dunlin, the curlew and the lapwing overwinter at Lake Constance.

 

Dunlin (Calidris alpina) juvenile.jpg

 

Eurasian Curlew.jpg

 

Northern-Lapwing-Vanellus-vanellus.jpg

 

In the middle of December 2014 there were 56,798 heron, 51,713 coot and 43,938 pochard.

In November/December are about 10,000 to 15,000 red-crested pochard and 10,000 great crested grebe on Lake Constance.

 

Netta rufina (Red-crested Pochard) Male, London Wetland Centre - Diliff.jpg

 

During migration in late autumn there are also numerous loon on the lake (black-throated and red-throated loon as well as a few great northern divers).

 

PacificLoon24.jpg

 

Lake Constance is also very important as a staging post during the bird migration.

Bird migration is often inconspicuous and most noticeable when there are special weather conditions that make day migration obvious.

Only where there is a prolonged spell of widespread low-pressure is it common to observe the congestion of large groups of migratory birds.

 

This can often be observed in autumn on the Eriskircher Ried on the northern shore of Lake Constance.

This is where broad front migration converges on the lake and birds then try to move along the shore towards the northwest.

The importance of Lake Constance as an important area for resting and overwintering is underlined by the Max Planck Institute for Ornithology’s Radolfzell Bird Observatory (Vogelwarte Radolfzell), which is the bird ringing centre for the German states of Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg, Berlin, Rhineland-Palatinate and the Saarland as well as for Austria, and which researches bird migration.

 

 

Around 45 species of fish live in Lake Constance.

The annual haul from fishing is 1.5 million kg.

Unusual species occurring here considering the location of the lake are the whitefish (Coregonus spec.) and the Arctic char (Salvelinus alpinus).

 

Lake whitefish1.jpg

 

Salvelinusalpinus.jpg

 

Fish that are important for the fishing industry are:

  • Bodenseefelchen (Coregonus wartmanni)(Lake whitefish)
  • Sandfelchen (Coregonus arenicolus)(Sand whitefish)
  • Gangfisch (Coregonus macrophthalmus)

 

  • Lake Constance whitefish (Coregonus gutturosus)(extinct)

Kilch.jpg

 

  • Grayling (Thymallus thymallus)

Thymallus thymallus2.jpg

 

  • Perch (Perca fluviatilis)

Perca fluviatilis2.jpg

 

  • Bream (Abramis brama)

Carp bream1.jpg

 

  • Northern pike (Esox lucius)

Esox lucius1.jpg

 

  • Zander (Sander lucioperca)(pike perch)

Sander lucioperca 1.jpg

 

  • Burbot (Lota lota)

Trüsche Walchensee.jpg

 

  • Eel (Anguilla Anguilla)

Anguilla anguilla.jpg

 

  • Bullhead (Cottus gobio)

Cottus Pesh.JPG

 

  • Tench (Tinca tinca)

Tinca tinca Prague Vltava 2.jpg

 

  • Wels catfish (Silurus glanis)

Silurus glanis 02.jpg

 

  • Lake trout (Salmo trutta lacustris).

Bachforelle Zeichnung.jpg

 

The Bodenseefelchen (Coregonus wartmanni), which was named after Lake Constance due to the great numbers found there, is often prepared whole or as a fillet, in the style of the miller’s wife (nach Müllerin Art), in local fish restaurants in a similar way to other trout.

It is also often served smoked.

 

The endemic species, formerly found in Lake Constance, the Bodensee Kilch (Coregonus gutturosus) and deepwater char (Salvelinus profundus) are now assumed to be extinct.

 

Unsere Süßwasserfische (Tafel 24) (6102600905).jpg

 

 

After a collision with the Stadt Zürich in 1864 the wreck of the Jura has lain on the lake bed at a depth of 45 metres off the Swiss shore near Bottinghofen.

 

Stadt Zürich (1855).jpg

Above: The Stadt Zürich

 

Above: Model of the Jura, Seemuseum (Lake Museum), Kreuzlingen

 

In the early 20th century four ships were sunk in the Obersee after being taken out of service: in 1931 the Baden, formerly the Kaiser Wilhelm, in 1932 the Helvetia, in 1933 the Säntis and in 1934 the Stadt Radolfzell.

The hull of the burnt-out Friedrichshafen was scuttled in 1944 off the mouth of the Argen in 100 to 150 metres of water.

 

The tourism and leisure industry is important for this region.

Overnight stays reached 17,56m visitors in 2012 with an turnover of about 1.9bn Euros.

The same amount comes from the 70 million daily visitors that visit Lake Constance each year.

This region is known for sightseeing, water-sports, winter-sports like skiing, summer-sports like swimming, sailing and other recreational activiities.

It is also one of the few places where modern Zeppelin airships operate and 12–14 people can take a trip above the lake around various points of interests.

In cooperation with tourism service providers, tourism organizations and public institutions in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Liechtenstein, the International Bodensee Tourismus GmbH (IBT GmbH) is responsible for the tourism marketing of the Lake Constance region.

 

 

The Lake and the region around it have a substantial touristic infrastructure as well as many attractions and points of interests.

Important are especially cities like:

  • Konstanz

 

  • Überlingen

 

  • Meersburg

 

  • Friedrichshafen

Friedrichshafen in August 2009

 

  • Lindau

 

  • Bregenz

…..as they are the big hubs for boating tourism.

 

The main tourism attractions are places like:

  • Rhine Falls, one of the three biggest waterfalls in Europe

 

  • Mainau Island

Mainau Italienische Wassertreppe.jpg

 

  • Reichenau Island (UNESCO world heritage)

 

  • the pilgrimage church at Birnau

 

  • castles and palaces like:
    • Salem Abbey

 

    • Meersburg Castle

 

    • the Pfahlbaumuseum (stilt house museum) Unteruhldingen (UNESCO)

 

    • the Church of St. George, Oberzell, Reichenau

 

The Alps reach almost to the east of the Lake, producing great scenic beauty.

 

Mont Blanc oct 2004.JPG

 

The Pfänderbahn (a cable car) goes from top of the mountain right down to the lake in Bregenz.

 

 

Lake Constance is the location for the annual Bregenzer Festspiele, a well-known arts festival that, among other venues, takes place on a floating stage in Bregenz.

The operas, plays and concerts performed are usually popular works, e.g. The Magic Flute by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756 – 1791) or Rigoletto by Giuseppe Verdi (1813 – 1901).

 

 

Since 2001, ART BODENSEE has taken place in Dornbirn.

It is an annual meeting point for the exchange between collectors, artists and art appreciators.

 

 

Biking around the lake is also possible on the 261 km (162 mi) long trail called “Bodensee-Radweg“.

It brings its visitors to the most interesting sites and goes around the whole lake.

Nevertheless, various shortcuts via ferries allow shorter routes and the trail is suitable for all levels.

Note: There is also a trail that goes by the name “Bodensee-Rundweg“.

This path is intended for pedestrians so biking is sometimes not suitable or allowed.

 

 

Swimming in the Lake is usually possible from mid-June to mid-September.

Depending on the weather, the water temperatures reach 19 to 25 °C (66.2 to 77.0 °F).

Within one day, differences of up to 3 °C (5.4 °F) are possible with appropriate sunlight, so that the Lake invites you to swim, especially on warm summer evenings.

 

 

Diving in Lake Constance is considered attractive and challenging.

Most of the diving areas are located in the northern part of the lake (Überlingen, Ludwigshafen, Marienschlucht and others), a few also in the south.

The areas should be dived exclusively by experienced divers under the guidance of one of the local diving schools or a seasoned diver.

Diving at some spots like the impressive devils table (“Teufelstisch“) is a rock needle in the Lake in front of the Marienschlucht and is only allowed with the approval of the district office in Konstanz.

The aforementioned famous freshwater wreck in Europe of the paddle steamer Jura, which lies in front of Bottighofen at a depth of 39 metres (128 feet) is popular with divers.

The canton of Thurgau, the office for archeology in Frauenfeld, has placed the Jura under protection as an underwater industrial monument.

For all divers, the water in Lake Constance—even in summer—is already below 10 °C (50 °F) from a depth of 10 metres (32.8 ft) which requires suitable cold-water regulators that do not freeze at such temperatures.

 

Above: Diving spot Teufelstisch

 

The importance of pleasure boating is enormous.

At the beginning of 2011, 57,875 amusement vehicles were registered for Lake Constance.

The legal basis for all shipping on the lake is the ordinance on shipping on Lake Constance, or “Bodensee-Schifffahrtsordnung“.

It is monitored on Lake Constance and on the Upper Rhine by the German, Swiss and Austrian Lake Police/ “Seepolizei“.

All boats must be registered and boat drivers must hold a “Bodenseeschifferpatent” (Authorization to drive a patented vehicle on Lake Constance).

It is awarded in Germany by the shipping offices of the district of Konstanz, the Lake Constance district and the district of Lindau, in Switzerland by the cantonal authorities and in Austria by the District Commission Bregenz.

For pleasure boaters short-term guest licenses are possible (for the categories A for motorboats over 4.4 kW and D for sailboats over 12 m2 sail area).

Boating events

  • Since 1979, every year during the assumption of Mary, Europe’s largest ship procession is held on Lake Constance.
  • Every year (early summer) the spectacular all-around (!Rund-um”) Regatta from Lindau to Lindau via Meersburg, Überlingen, Romanshorn is organized.
  • Since 2009, the annual water sports and sailing festival “International Lake Constance week”, a joint sports event takes place in Konstanz.
  • In Friedrichshafen, one of the most important water sports fairs in Europe, the Interboot, takes place annually.

 

 

But most of all, in my humble opinion, hiking trails and pilgrim paths are the best way to experience the Region.

The 260-kilometer long Lake Constance circular route, signposted as “Bodensee Rundwanderweg“, leads around Lake Constance through the territories of Germany, Austria and Switzerland.

 

 

It is mainly intended for hiking.

The trail can be walked in smaller stages of various lengths and offers nice views of the lake, landscape and wildlife.

However, due to industrial settlements, buildings and nature reserves, not all the coastal zones are readily accessible.

Furthermore, in the estuary of the rivers, such the Leiblach, Bregenzer Ach, canalized Rhine and Old Rhine (Fußacher breakthrough), considerable distances have to be covered inland to the next bridge or river crossing point.

Due to busy riverside roads, the Bodensee-Rundweg sometimes runs as a trail above the lake with some lookout possibilities.

 

 

Lake Constance is also a hub for long-distance hikers and pilgrims.

It has been a crucial reference point of important pilgrimage routes since ancient times:

  • Via Beuronensis, a Way of St. James from the Neckar region over the Swabian Alb

 

 

  • the Upper Swabian pilgrimage route of St. James, which leads from Upper Swabia to the Lake and branches north of the Lake both in the direction of Nonnenhorn and in the direction of Meersburg

Oberschwäbischer Jakobswegstempel Ulm

 

  • the Bavarian-Swabian route of St. James, which leads down from the West Allgäu to the Lake

 

  • the Schwabenweg, which ensures the connection to Switzerland to the Lake near Konstanz

 

 

To capture the poetry and passion that a walk evokes in me, let me quote a passionate poet:

 

The morning’s fair; the lusty sun
With ruddy cheek begins to run;
And early birds, that wing the skies,
Sweetly sing to see him rise.
I am resolved, this charming day,
In the open field to stray,
And have no roof above my head,
But that whereon the gods do tread.
Before the yellow barn I see
A beautiful variety
Of strutting cocks, advancing stout,
And flirting empty chaff about:
Hens, ducks, and geese, and all their brood,
And turkeys gobbling for their food,
While rustics thrash the wealthy floor,
And tempt them all to crowd the door.
What a fair face does Nature show!
Augusta! wipe thy dusty brow;
A landscape wide salutes my sight
Of shady vales and mountains bright;
And azure heavens I behold,
And clouds of silver and of gold.
And now into the fields I go,
Where thousand flaming flowers glow,
And every neighb’ring hedge I greet,
With honeysuckle smelling sweet.
Now o’er the daisy-meads I stray,
And meet with, as I pace my way,
Sweetly shining on the eye,
A riv’let gliding smoothly by,
Which shows with what an easy tide
The moments of the happy glide:
Here, finding pleasure after pain,
Sleeping, I see a weary’d swain,
While his full scrip lies open by,
That does his healthy food supply.
Happy swain! sure happier far
Than lofty kings and princes are!
Enjoy sweet sleep, which shuns the crown,
With all its easy beds of down.
The sun now shows his noontide blaze,
And sheds around me burning rays.
A little onward, and I go
Into the shade that groves bestow,
And on green moss I lay me down,
That o’er the root of oak has grown;
Where all is silent, but some flood
That sweetly murmurs in the wood;
But birds that warble in the sprays,
And charm ev’n Silence with their lays.
Oh! pow’rful Silence! How you reign
In the poet’s busy brain!
His num’rous thoughts obey the calls
Of the tuneful waterfalls;
Like moles, whene’er the coast is clear,
They rise before thee without fear,

And range in parties here and there.
Some wildly to Parnassus wing,
And view the fair Castalian spring,
Where they behold a lonely well
Where now no tuneful Muses dwell,
But now and then a slavish hind
Paddling the troubled pool they find.
Some trace the pleasing paths of joy,
Others the blissful scene destroy,
In thorny tracks of sorrow stray,
And pine for Clio far away.
But stay — Methinks her lays I hear,
So smooth! so sweet! so deep! so clear!
No, it is no other voice I find;
‘Tis but the echo stays behind.
Some meditate Ambition’s brow,
And the black gulf that gapes below;
Some peep in courts, and there they see
The sneaking tribe of Flattery: —
But, striking to the ear and eye,
A nimble deer comes bounding by!
When rushing from yon rustling spray,
It made them vanish all away.
I rouse me up, and on I rove;
‘Tis more than time to leave the grove;
The sun declines, the evening breeze
Begins to whisper through the trees;
And as I leave the sylvan gloom,
As to the glare of day I come,
An old man’s smoky nest I see
Leaning on an aged tree,
Whose willow walls, and furzy brow,
A little garden sway below.
Through spreading beds of blooming green,
Matted with herbage sweet and clean,
A vein of water limps along,
And makes them ever green and young.
Here he puffs upon his spade,
And digs up cabbage in the shade;
His tatter’d rags are sable brown,
His beard and hair are hoary grown:
The dying sap descends apace,
And leaves a withered hand and face.
Up Grongar Hill I labour now,
And catch at last his bushy brow.
Oh! how fresh, how pure the air!
Let me breathe a little here.
Where am I, Nature? I descry
Thy magazine before me lie.
Temples! and towns! and towers! and woods!
And hills! and rills! and fields! and floods!
Crowding before me, edg’d around
With naked wilds, and barren ground.
See, below, the pleasant dome,
The poet’s pride, the poet’s home,
Which the sunbeams shine upon,
To the even from the dawn.
See her woods, where Echo talks,
Her gardens trim, her terrace walks,
Her wildernesses, fragrant brakes,
Her gloomy bowers, and shining lakes.
Keep, ye gods! this humble seat
For ever pleasant, private, neat.
See yonder hill, uprising steep,
Above the river slow and deep;
It looks from hence a pyramid,
Beneath a verdant forest hid;
On whose high top there rises great,
The mighty remnant of a seat,
An old green tow’r, whose batter’d brow
Frowns upon the vale below.
Look upon that flowery plain,
How the sheep surround their swain,

How they crowd to hear his strain!
All careless with his legs across,
Leaning on a bank of moss,
He spends his empty hours at play,
Which fly as light as down away.
And there behold a bloomy mead,
A silver stream, a willow shade,
Beneath the shade a fisher stand,
Who, with the angle in his hand,
Swings the nibbling fry to land.
In blushes the descending sun
Kisses the streams, while slow they run;
And yonder hill remoter grows,
Or dusky clouds do interpose.
The fields are left, the lab’ring hind
His weary oxen does unbind;
And vocal mountains, as they low,
Re-echo to the vales below.
The jocund shepherds piping come,
And drive the herd before them home;
And now begin to light their fires,
Which send up smoke in curling spires;
While with light hearts all homeward tend,
To Aberglasney I descend.
But oh! how bless’d would be the day,
Did I with Clio pace my way,
And not alone and solitary stray!

 

Above: Self-portrait, John Dyer (1699 – 1757)

 

 

You may ask, perhaps rightly so, what have I shown you?

There is so much else that we could speak of, but have we made the abnormal so normal that what is normal feels abnormal?

You may argue that I write of what is commonplace and ordinary, but are not most of us that ourselves?

 

Pulp - Common People.JPG

 

Can you not feel the quiet majesty of the Seven Sorrows Mariä Chapel?

Can you not sense the fear that lay behind the bunker on the path?

Can you not imagine the bonfire of the holies on Mammern’s Main Street?

Can you not experience the wonder of defiant chapels that defied and defined faith?

 

 

My sharing the spirit of the land in which I reside and your reading that shares the experience….

 

Are not our lives improving?

 

 

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / http://www.mammern.ch / Herbert Mayr, Bodensee Süd Rother Wanderführer / Barbara Hutzl-Ronge, Magischer Bodensee: Wanderungen zu Orten der Kraft / Hans-Peter Siebenhaar, Bodensee (Michael Müller Verlag) / John Dyer, “The Country Walk” / William Hazlitt, “On Going a Journey” / Edward Abbey, “Walking” / Thomas Traherne, “Walking

 

 

“Found unresponsive at home”

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Tuesday 19 May 2020

 

The Way We Were #1

 

Amazon.com: The Way We Were (1973) [DVD]: Movies & TV

 

Everything is unusual if viewed in the proper light.

Within the kernel of an ordinary day lies the unusual and if examined carefully every moment has within it seeds of the sensational.

Everyone agrees that here is an ordinary place and the place is, in itself, ugly.

It, like the nation in which it is in, has a smug, placid air.

You need time to discover what it is that makes it different from anywhere else everywhere else.

 

Münsterlingen - Wikipedia

 

Perhaps the easiest way of making a town’s acquaintance is to ascertain how the people in it work, how they love and how they live.

The truth is everyone is bored and desperately seeking something.

Our citizens work hard, but solely with the object of getting rich.

Their chief interest is in commerce and their chief aim in life is doing business.

 

File:Ehemaliges Zehnthaus in (Münsterlingen-)Landschlacht.jpg ...

 

Naturally they don’t reject such simple sensations as love-making, swimming and going to the cinema (when it opens again in June), but very sensibly, for this is after all Deutschschweiz, they pursue these pastimes for Saturday afternoons and Sundays, and employ the rest of the week, for the rest of their lives beyond childhood and before the grave, in making money, as much as possible, as quickly as possible.

 

Map of languages in Switzerland

 

In the evening, upon leaving work, they return home, complain to their loved ones about the incompetency and inefficiency of those they work with, watch some television as they eat a supper soon consumed, soon forgotten, and drift into unconsciousness, a black expanse not unlike death itself.

 

Do you fall asleep in front of TV? It's one of 40 signs you're ...

 

The passions of the young are violent, loud and brief.

The passions of the aged are restricted to that which their failing bodies and minds allow.

 

No doubt the habits of Landschlacht can be found in Lachute, Lyon, Limoges or London.

Really, all our contemporaries are the same, whether they be in Deutschschweiz, Romandie, Graubünden or Ticino.

Certainly nothing is more common these days than to see people working from dawn to dusk and often before and after, and then returning home to rigor mortis.

 

Emotional Exhaustion: Symptoms, Causes, Treatments, and More

 

To be fair, there does exist towns and countries where people have now and again an inkling that there is more in heaven and earth than was dreamt in Horatio’s philosophy.

Sadly, this does not change life as it is for most folks.

Still, there is an instinct just beneath the surface, a whisper of something more than what the present experience offers.

 

Hamlet & Yorick's Skull

 

Meanwhile, men and women consume one another like beggars at banquets, in desperate desire called “the act of love” or else they settle down to the dull routine of comfortably numb conjugality.

For here in Landschlacht, as elsewhere, for lack of time and thought, people love one another without knowing how or why they do.

 

Amazon.com: Pink Floyd - Comfortably Numb Lyrics - Unframed Print ...

 

What is difficult for the denizens of this little hamlet by the Lake of Constance to comprehend is not the difficulty of dying.

Folks did die, surrendered their last breath, that final solitary act, every year, even before the corona virus came a-callin’.

Death ain’t difficult, though it can be very distressing for the income earner.

 

Death - Wikipedia

 

No, what causes the neighbourhood difficulty and discomfort is seeing those who should be working not doing their duty.

 

How can someone change from being lazy to being hardworking? - Quora

 

The invalid and the ill receive their small attentions, are allowed to distract others with their small selfish needs, but who sympathizes with the slovenly or the suddenly unemployed?

 

While the entire population of the Municipality of Münsterlingen is talking on the phone or answering inane emails or discussing shipments and sales, the unemployed man is torn between the impatience of his guilt-inducing spouse reminding him of his responsibilities to her and the family, and his sudden discovery that there is joy in leisure.

 

Healthy Life Lessons: You are Not Lazy!

 

For the neighbourhood domestic notes with great annoyance that they who must cope with the demands of daily life and the undeniable stalking discomfort of death inevitable are not in unison with this independent, unemployed non-conformist amongst them.

Clearly this layabout is trouble to the town, for this one denies the banality of life, of days of worry and strife, of habits and modus operandi easily understood by those who need not think.

And habits are precisely what this parish preaches, for though a habitual life is not a life of great excitement, it does offer a civilized cohesion like no other.

 

lazy bum Archives - Glasbergen Cartoon Service

 

Here the Germanic influence makes a man frank-spoken, amiable and industrious and envied among others of his kind, but Landschlacht for all its tweeness and industriousness and modest beauty is a place without dreams, without glamour, without soul or spirit, without horizons or hopes.

 

Münsterlingen - Wikiwand

 

Nothing but the dead and dying here in our little town?

 

Landschlacht St. Leonhard | Pastoralraum Altnau

 

Landschlacht is an artificial graft on a landscape ringed by hills and asleep by the beach, a town rushed through, an existence sped past.

Being a town of little consequence in a canton often ignored, the corona virus is mostly a phenomenon experienced by everyone else elsewhere.

We know of it, we read about it, we know of no one among us who has had it.

A historian searching for a chronicle of the pandemic in Landschlacht would be hard pressed to find much evidence of it here, whether witnessed by himself, communicated by those he speaks with, or in the form of any documentation.

 

Ibuprofen and COVID-19 | University of Basel

 

Instead what is remarkable in this town is a certain foreigner  – and there are few of those here – who spends his mornings writing by his open apartment window and his afternoons walking in solitude and his evenings silently accepting criticism and reproach for the decisions he foolishly made that led to his leisure.

 

5 Lessons on Being a More Productive Writer (Plus Tips You Can Steal)

 

But perhaps the time has come to abandon preliminaries and commentaries and launch into the events of Sunday 10 May to Wednesday 13 May 2020 that saw a lockdown mostly eased, the partial resumption of habits sorely missed by most and witnessed a man of modest means in emotional recklessness abandon the world of work for a future uncertain.

 

BBC Two - And Now for Something Completely Different

 

The week began with anxiety.

 

How imagination can help people overcome fear and anxiety

 

Are we ready?

Even if many stores and cafés and restaurants and museums are open again, is there safety and security in returning to them?

 

It's too early': Your views on Switzerland reopening bars and ...

 

Do we have the situation under control?

There is a feeling that there is more chaos than control present in protecting the population from the corona pandemic, thus far a virus without a vaccine.

 

Switzerland Unveils Plan to Reopen Schools and Businesses - Bloomberg

 

Experts strongly recommend wearing a mask, but few do and fewer want to.

 

This Virus May Never Go Away' - Countries That Reopen Early May ...

 

And we all think in our thirst to return to normality:

What if corona comes back?

What will the federal government do if there is a relapse?

 

Federal Palace of Switzerland - Wikipedia

 

There is talk of contact tracing apps and isolation enforced by the police.

 

Majority of Swiss in favour of contact tracing via smartphones ...

 

Bern begs for our forbearance and someone significant says:

In the worst case, the Federal Council (they who must be obeyed, even in a democracy) will pull the emergency cord in two weeks.

 

Swiss fact: women were the majority in Switzerland's cabinet from ...

 

Meanwhile in hospitals, but not here in our Kantonspital, there are only 130 Covid-19 cases across Switzerland, and by week’s end no more new cases in Ticino the region worst afflicted.

Hospitals are returning to normal, again admitting patients with ailments unrelated to corona, as the number of intensive care beds with Covid-19 patiends has dropped sharply since the peak six weeks ago.

 

3i Münsterlingen | Spital Thurgau AG

 

Meanwhile our young, so dumb and yet our hope on our horizon, demonstrate and protests in groups against measures that deny their demonstrations and protesting in groups.

 

Swiss students join global climate strike demonstrations - SWI ...

 

The corona virus has been a godsend for our elected officials in Bern, for their calm and collected compassion in this time of crisis has raised both their profiles and their popularity.

How easily we forget their flaws and forgive their flops from before the virus struck!

The public discourse slides from numbers of patients to border control, unemployment and pensions.

 

Swiss newspapers lament latest tragedy - SWI swissinfo.ch

 

(The private discourse as well in Casa Canada Slim.)

 

Real estate for rent Landschlacht | homegate.ch

 

Over the border, under the leadership of Austrian Chancellor Sebastian Kruz, “Österreich” got through the first phase of the pandemic very well, but at the same time the young leader’s authoritarian features have become apparent.

In Austria, the face mask has become a muzzle.

One speaks out less in public now.

 

Austria Chancellor Calls For Snap Elections After 'Russia-Linked ...

 

And the image of recovery, both economic and medical, is somewhat tarnished by Ischgl.

 

Ischgl - Wikipedia

 

Austria has lifted the strict quarantine on three ski resorts in Tyrol which were corona virus hotspots.

The three include Ischgl, known as the “Ibiza of the Alps“, where hundreds of tourists from across Europe are believed to have become infected.

 

Around the World Maps: Tyrol Map

 

The resorts of St Anton am Arlberg, Sölden and the Paznaun valley – which surrounds Ischgl – have been sealed off since the middle of March.

They will now be subject to the same lockdown rules as the rest of Austria.

Earlier in April, Austria’s public health agency said that Ischgl was the source of the country’s biggest cluster of corona virus cases, infecting more than 800 Austrians and up to twice as many people abroad, particularly in Germany and Scandinavian countries.

Foreign skiers took the corona virus home with them.

 

Ischgl Urlaub: Tipps für Sommer & Winter | Tirol

 

The Tyrolean provincial government said in a statement on Tuesday there had only been 10 positive cases in the last 12 days.

Flag of Tyrol

 

In general, Austria hasn’t fared too badly during this pandemic.

It says it has managed to flatten the curve of infections and has reported around 500 deaths in total, fewer than many countries report in a single day.

As a result, it is slowly easing restrictions.

Small shops are already open again and all shops by the beginning of May, followed by restaurants in the middle of the month.

 

Map of Austria

 

But local politicians admit mistakes were made in the ski resorts in Tyrol.

 

Schmugglerrunde | Die neue Schmugglertour in Ischgl | Tirol

 

Local authorities in Tyrol have been accused of responding too slowly after the virus started spreading in crowded après-ski bars in February and March:

  • 5 March: Iceland put Ischgl on a list of corona virus risk areas, after a group of skiers apparently picked up the infection there
  • 7 March: A waiter at an après-ski bar called Kitzloch tested positive for Covid-19. Kitzloch was ordered to close two days later.
  • 13 March: The Paznaun valley, including Ischgl, and the resort of St Anton am Arlberg were quarantined, followed a couple of days later by Sölden.
  • Foreign tourists were still allowed to leave, further spreading the virus.

 

Seilbahner wussten frühzeitig um die Corona-Bombe Ischgl | kurier.at

 

At a news conference earlier in April, Franz Allerberger from the Austrian Agency for Health and Food Safety said that it was clear that the virus was around in the ski resorts before the waiter at Kitzloch tested positive in March.

He said Patient Zero was believed to have been an Austrian waitress who started showing symptoms on 8 February.

 

Infektiologe Allerberger: "Das Virus hat keine Flügel" | kurier.at

 

Authorities in Tyrol dispute this, saying the first case appeared on 7 March.

They say they took radical action in a timely manner.

The Austrian government has promised an investigation into what happened in Tyrol.

 

Amazon.com : 3'x5' Austrian Eagle Shield Crest FLAG of Austria ...

 

Meanwhile the Austrian Consumer Protection Association, the VSV, is gathering signatures for a possible class action lawsuit, on the grounds that the ski resorts in Tyrol were kept open for commercial reasons, despite the outbreak of Covid-19.

It says it has a sent a description of the facts to the Public Prosecutor’s Office in Vienna “against the Tyrolean authorities“.

Peter Kolba from the VSV says almost 5,000 people have signed up.

Most of them, over 3,400, come from Germany, and the list also includes almost 400 Dutch people and over 120 Britons.

Chaos and disease can produce profit.

 

Vector spread from Austrian ski town was toxic mix of business and ...

 

Still Ischgl stands as a standard to be examined.

 

Die Silvrettaseilbahn AG – das Unternehmen | ischgl.com

 

Meanwhile, New York City’s cultural scene is literally dying, as many names from cultural life are currently noticeable among the obituaries of the New York media, for the contagion not only batters the body but also stabs the soul.

 

New York City: Skyline-Tour bei Nacht - New York, USA | GetYourGuide

 

And nothing brings out insanity more than insane situations.

The wackos talk of well-poisoning and world domination as the pandemic is fuelling the old anti-Semetic conspiracy theories from the righteous right, the loony left and insane Islamists.

 

A response to anti-Semitism | The Princetonian

 

(Happily, these weird and “wonderful” folks are minorities best marginalized.)

 

One of the messages these hatemongers send is that the Jews invented the virus.

Horse hockey, I say.

 

Amazon.com : Horse Hockey Ice Hockey Refrigerator Magnet : Sports ...

 

It wasn’t Jews or Muslims, Americans or Chinese that brought corona into being.

It was Mother Nature, attention-starved and vengeful.

 

William Congreve Quote: “Hell hath no fury like a woman scorned ...

 

Truth be told, it is neither the fault of any one government or religion for the fate that has befallen us, but that being said we can find fault with how our leaders prepare for and subsequently handle pandemics.

Frankly, not only are most economies unprepared for super disasters, they were already not as strong as they could have been before corona struck.

Generally, and this is a very human trait universally shown, we don’t take risks seriously enough.

 

10 Of The Most Dangerous Selfies Snapped - Breaking News From the ...

 

Still there is hope.

Several studies with the active ingredient remdesivir are currently ongoing here in Switzerland, but I cannot help but wonder whether the wish for wealth will overcome the humanitarian impulse to offer the wonder drug to virus victims free of charge and secure access to the medicine worldwide.

 

COVID-19: Two new remdesivir studies offer competing results

 

Or has the Trump mentality corrupted us all?

 

Donald Trump Vs The Rest Of The World - YouTube

 

In America, it seems the question is:

What is the value of a life?

 

The value of life is not based on how long we live, but how much ...

 

Public discourse is split between those who feel that the lockdown was too long and too strict and those who feel the easing of these efforts comes too early.

 

Trump to ease US lockdown; says coronavirus cases 'passed peak ...

 

As we rush to return to a routine reality, it seems we will soon forget the patients and their helpers affected by this ailment.

We ignore the incidents of some affected victims contracting the pandemic again.

We rely on a relapse never materializing, while not really ready for the real possibility that it will return.

And we forget that one in five of health workers who survived the suffering now show symptoms of depression and post-traumatic discomfort.

 

Viral Photo of Exhausted Nurse Rallies Praise for Profession - The ...

 

For me there is no Mother’s Day to mark, except the mute mourning for a mother long dead and the silent relief that the border closing made a Mother’s Day visit to my wife’s mother not possible this year.

For a man is reminded through his mother-in-law of the probable fate of his wife.

 

Monster-in-Law 2005 Authentic 27" x 41" Original Movie Poster ...

 

Though there have always been mothers and many traditional celebrations of motherhood over the millennia, the manifestation of what we mark in our calendars as “Mother’s Day” seems far removed from these older traditions.

The modern Mother’s Day began in the US (where else?) at the initiative of Anna Jarvis (1864 – 1948) in the early 20th century, but even she herself regretted the commercialism of Mother’s Day and expressed views on how commercialism was never her intention.

 

Anna jarvis.jpg

 

Instead this childless couple went walkin’.

Although rather short, the Panoramarundweg Homburg (the Homburg Panoramic Circle Tour) passed many sites, including the Hinterhomburg where an impressive distant view of the Alpine chain opens up, when weather conditions are conducive.

 

Panoramaweg Homburg

 

(This day they were not.)

 

Panoramarundweg Homburg • Wanderung » outdooractive.com

 

The day previously we had undertaken a longer hike wherein I had forgotten my supporting insoles, signage was confusing, steep hills were the cost of getting lost and the sun’s heat was without mercy.

Mother’s Day found me prepared with insoles and we encountered invisible Alpine views and non-existent, pamphlet-promised amphibian life and good signage, cool forests, a closed restaurant but a rest area that offered machine coffee.

 

Panoramarundweg Homburg • Wanderung » outdooractive.com

 

I love my wife (despite myself) but inaccurate trail descriptions and incessant impatience do not aid our alliance.

 

Homburg Panorama-Rundweg

 

Still the drive from Landschlacht to Reutenen, where the Panoramarundweg begins at the Heidenhaus Restaurant, was noteworthy.

 

Haidenhaus Restaurant in Hörhausen - Öffnungszeiten | Adresse ...

 

Münsterlingen, of which Landschlacht is a part, is home to my wife’s employer, the Kantonspital Münsterlingen and perhaps my future home, the Psychiatrische Klinik.

 

Münsterlingen: Medikamente an 3000 Psychiatrie-Patienten getestet

 

(It is not easy being married to a doctor!)

 

Exhausted indian lady Stock Photos - Page 1 : Masterfile

 

Münsterlingen with its St. Remigius Monastery on hospital grounds, a baroque church with a wooden bust of St. John the Baptist (a man ahead of his time) that is carried across the frozen Lake of Constance to Hagnau (Germany) in a religious procession called the Seegfrörne but has remained here since the Lake has not been frozen since 1963.

 

Kloster Münsterlingen – Wikipedia

 

The Municipality, if not the wee hamlet of Landschlacht, has had its share of personalities: psychiatrists, film critics, motocross racers, politicians, actors, writers, pianists, skeet shooters, cyclists, business persons, dancers, footballers, hurdlers, opera singers and models.

But of these only author Peter Stamm (now resident in Winterthur) interests me.

 

 

Of his writing (translated) I like his book To the Back of Beyond which asks:

“Have you ever wondered how you would go about disappearing from your own life?”

The answer is, of course:

Yes.

 

To the Back of Beyond (English Edition) eBook: Stamm, Peter ...

 

Down the road, Scherzingen has a solitary claim to fame: the oldest Reformed Church in the Canton of Thurgau.

Nuff said.

 

400 Jahre evangelisch-reformierte Kirche Scherzingen ...

 

Beyond Scherzingen but remaining still by the Lake is the town of Bottighofen with its wonderful eclectic Museum, where one learns of the geological uniqueness of this region, a land shaped by the deposits and the landscape-forming processes of the last ice age.

 

Museums and planetarium

 

This is a land covered by metres of thick basic moraine, the composition of which is very varied both in terms of grain size and rock material.

This is a land of fertile soils and a favourable water balance atop this moraine blanket, a mix which is particularly suitable for farming.

 

Bottighofen

(Translation: Attractive with a higher quality of life)

 

In the Museum the visitor learns of the Stichbach, a stream that runs through the Bottighofer Forest and the town.

 

wasserfall-stichbach | PHIEW

 

Photos show how, on 14 June 1999, the Stichbach burst its banks and flooded the streets.

Heavy local rainfall into the Stichbach led to a rapid rise of water in the stream.

A lot of wood was carried by the current and blocked the culverts under the bridges.

The water shut down the electricity supply for the entire town and furiously flooded many properties.

 

Bottighofer Bilder

 

 

One learns that once upon a time there were four mills in Bottighofen, three on the upper reaches of the Stichbach and the 4th at the Stichbach’s outlet at the Lake.

Since everyone was dependent on the Stichbach, there were often quarrels among the millers.

A setting superb for a tale worthy of Don Quixote.

 

Wasserbau Stichbach Bottighofen

 

Further down the road and along the Lake is Kurzrickenbach where there once were originally bleaches for canvas production owned and operated by the German city of Konstanz.

 

Kurzrickenbach – Wikipedia

 

During the Middle Ages, canvas was one of the most important trade and export items for the cities of Lake Constance.

Kurzrickenbach’s linen-weaving mill existed until the 19th century, replaced by crops of flax, fruit and wine that dominated the local economy until the 20th century.

Kurzrickenbach was for centuries the main water supplier for the City of Konstanz.

The water was led into the city via Teuchel (wooden pipes) sunk underground.

 

QV Kreuzlingen Kurzrickenbach - Fotos

 

But for me and she, Kurzrickenbach is indivisible from the Municipality of Kreuzlingen that assimilated it and indistinguishable from it save for the train station name that remains behind the shopping centre Seepark that dominates it.

 

QV Kreuzlingen Kurzrickenbach - Startseite

 

The city of Kreuzlingen deserves more description than I wish to give it at this time.

 

Kreuzlingen in early-October 2009

 

Bernrain, above Kreuzlingen on a hill south of Emmishofen, with its own train station on the Konstanz-Weinfelden line, is a place of pilgrimage for those who follow the Way of St. James (Jakobsweg) bound for Santiago de Compostela in faraway Spain and for those who love chocolate.

 

Chocolat Bernrain AG | LokalesGewerbe.ch

 

Bernrain’s chapel on Jakobsweg (or Swabian Way) built in 1388 is home to the Miracle Cross and an odd legend associated with it.

 

Wallfahrtskapelle Heiligkreuz (Bernrain) | Erlebnisregion ...

 

In 1384, a boy from Konstanz, called Schappeler, went with his comrades to the Bernrain Forest and came upon an old cross that stood in the woods.

The high-spirited Schappeler, as dumb as they come, touched the crucified Christ on His nose and said:

God, blow Your nose before I kiss You!

Then Schappeler’s hand was caught on Christ’s nose.

 

Das Wunderkreuz von Bernrain, Kreuzlingen | ca. 1350 | Immaculata ...

 

Only the boy’s mother was able to free him when she praised Our Lady and offered to make seven pilgrimages to Einsiedeln Abbey for her son’s salvation.

At this point, Konstanzer Johannes Kränzlin had a chapel built here, which became a place of pilgrimage.

Every year since a procession leads from St. Stephan’s in Konstanz to Bernrain.

 

Bernrain

 

Further up the hills and deeper into farming country, there is the hamlet of Schwaderloh, where that which does not belong has found itself here.

 

 

Near the bridge of the road to Tägerwilen and over the highway is a boulder garden with 30 boulders which were transported from away by a glacier during the last ice age and were uncovered when the highway was built.

North of the garden the Battle of Schwaderloh was fought during the Swabian War of 1499, in which the Swiss Confederation achived a decisive victory over Swabian forces despite being outnumbered.

In memory of this battle, a festival is held here every 50 years.

 

File:Schlacht bei Schwaderloh.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

 

Of what remains of the journey to Reutenen not much can be said, for here are towns whose grand excitement is the manufaturing of metal (Thur Metall), the production of animal feed or the fattening of pigs.

 

Thur Metall | Keystone

 

The following day (Monday 11 May 2020) was St. Mamertus Day, a day mostly forgotten in these modern times.

Mamertus (died 475) was the Bishop of Vienne (Côte d’Azur), venerated as a saint and whose primary contribution to ecclesiastical practice was litanies prior to Ascension Day (Christi Himmelfahrt in these parts) as intercession against earthquakes and all manner of disasters.

 

Mammertus.JPG

 

William of Auxerre (died 1231) said that Mamertus instituted the litanies after “a plague of wolves“.

For just as it is told in the Gospel, that demons, by God’s permission and on account of the sins of men, entered pigs, similarly they entered wolves in order to hurt and kill people better, not only in villages but even in cities.

 

Wolves return to Netherlands after 140 years - BBC News

 

Mamertus is known as one of the Ice Saints, so named because his and his companions Pancras, Servatius and Bonifacio’s feast days fall on 11, 12, 13 and 14 May respectively, known as “the blackthorn winter” in Swiss folklore.

 

 

In parts of the Northern Hemisphere, the period from 12 May to 15 May is often believed to bring a brief spell of colder weather in many years, including the last nightly frosts of spring.

 

And it is these days of winter chill that find us asking whether summer holidays on Italian beaches will be possible this year.

No one is hugely optimistic.

 

17 Best Beaches in Italy: The Most Beautiful Italian Beaches ...

 

Our hopes are dampened by border bans, corona testing and tracing troubles, and exasperated economic recovery.

 

There is a spirit of Schadenfreude when we consider the curse that is Trump, himself cursed with those around him infected by the pandemic.

One cannot publicly wish the President ill but one will not mourn him should he meet the fate his incompetence caused thousands of others to suffer.

 

Photos show Trump's crowded coronavirus press conferences ...

 

The media distract us from that which matters.

 

Here we learn of the Swiss government planning a French fries crisis campaign as (Mon Dieu!) French fries sales fell during the Lockdown.

 

WRS | News | Switzerland to follow EU rules on drones and french ...

 

We read of a couple that died from drinking their home-brewed beer….

 

beer 3L Home Beer Brewing Equipment Vintage Pine Wood Beer Barrel ...

 

Of crab hatchlings flashing across the sand into the sea….

 

Do Crabs Lay Eggs? Reproduction in Crabs - Animal Hype

 

Of a drinking game made into a playing card game by a pair of Dissenhofen (near Schaffhausen) lager louts….

 

Ihre Busfahrten sind meistens recht süffig: Zwei junge ...

 

Of impromptu Mother’s Day concerts given from rooftops and church steeples….

 

Von den Dächern für alle: Wie zwei Thurgauer Musiker das ...

Above: Matthias Aeberhard, Güttingen

 

But not all of what we read and hear is trivial….

With this day the day the country mostly resumes life as we knew it, we learn of the rules that now must be followed to prevent a relapse of the pandemic.

Social distancing, face masks, plastic gloves….

 

Swiss health authorities unveil new campaign to tackle coronavirus ...

 

And though the economy has been battered and bruised and many made unemployed or unemployable there are already positive signs of recovery….

 

Subway is opening new stores here in Switzerland and the Federal Railways (SBB) seeks more cleaning staff.

 

Schaffhausen: Subway Sandwich in Schaffhausen

 

Fitness centres are now open so those who are fat can dream about the days when they were fit.

 

Pin on Big Man

 

Bookshops and libraries have opened their doors to encourage the introverted to emerge from theirs.

And we contemplate the return to restaurants who are asked to inquire of their patrons their contact information so pandemic tracing can be facilitated.

 

5 Steps to Overcome Your Fears as an Introvert - Psych2Go

 

And we in Switzerland find ourselves counting our blessings.

 

We feel sorry for America and we wonder if their prestige will ever recover.

We are saddened by an Administration so matter of fact about the total number of deaths caused by this heartless pandemic, a total measured politically rather than scientifically and best not mentioned if at all possible.

How did 80,000+ deaths become so unacknowledged by those elected to serve the country?

 

U.S. coronavirus death toll expected to reach 50,000 on Friday ...

 

We are shocked by the blatant behaviour of US Attorney General Barr and his dropping criminal charges of confessed criminal Michael Flynn….

 

United States Department of Justice - Wikipedia

 

We are amazed at how a genius like Elon Musk can so foolishly reopen his Tesla factory in Fremont, California….

 

Tesla appears to defy Bay Area shutdown, plans to operate Fremont ...

 

We are confounded by the idea that a country the size of Venezuela could ever be thought conquerable by a handful of men in a speedboat….

 

Venezuelan Constituent Assembly on Foiled Terrorist Attack | News ...

 

We read with sorrow of folks jailed in China for the crime of not being Chinese enough….

 

Taiwan Voices Support for Uyghurs in China – The Diplomat

 

Of the culture of silence in Suriname where the social price of dissent can install as much fear as the threat of violent repression….

 

The dignity of dissent: E.P. Thompson and Britain's One Nation ...

 

And then we return to distractions….

 

How models are affected by the pandemic….

 

New trends: fashion covers reflect the era of coronavirus ...

 

How drugs are haphazardly distributed….

 

Production Line for Tablet ( Stock Footage Video (100% Royalty-free ...

 

How Mother’s Day cards sell out every year….

 

Happy Self-Isolating Mother's Day - Mother's Day Card - Mother's ...

 

How birdwatchers find the pandemic a positive boon to their hobby….

 

Young Birders Network — Resources For Young Bird Watching Fanatics ...

 

How Shanghai’s Disneyland has reopened while the pandemic resurfaces in Wuhan….

 

Shanghai Disneyland Reopening Could Provide a Road Map for U.S. ...

 

An ode to our humble balconies and a musing on whether theatre balconies will ever fill again….

 

Balconville returns to Montreal's Centaur Theatre for 50th ...

 

Many thoughts emerge from my reading of the rags as I enjoy for the first time in ten weeks my first cappuccino in a café setting at the Romanshorn Bahnhof Brasserie.

 

Brasserie Romanshorn

 

My server is a Pretty Young Thing, a beauty of a brunette with shockingly blue eyes, still seductive despite the plastic gloves she wears while serving.

 

Michael Jackson - P.Y.T. (Pretty Young Thing) | Discogs

 

It is Monday and I already have pressure to find replacement work for the job I am abandoning.

Why, why, why did you quit?“, I am asked, but sometimes a change, even if the result is uncertain, is a good thing.

 

The Five W's of DR Life – Why? Why? Why? Why? Why? | Costambar Monthly

 

Tuesday comes as Tuesday does and this Tuesday (12 May 2020) is International Nurses Day held on the anniversary of the Lady of the Lamp, Florence Nightingale (1820 – 1910) whose museum in London I highly recommend.

 

Florence Nightingale – Biography, Facts & Nursing - HISTORY

 

Today is an international day observed around the world to mark the contributions that nurses make to society.

The International Council of Nurses (ICN) is headquartered in Geneva and has commemorated this day of days since 1965.

 

International Council of Nurses (ICN) | ICN - International ...

 

In the spirit of the times where BC seems to mean “before computers” and AD “age of digital“, on this day in 1941 Konrad Zuse (1910 – 1995) presented the Z3, the world’s first working programmable, fully automatic computer in Berlin.

While Zuse never became a member of the Nazi Party, he is not known to have expressed any doubts or qualms about working for the Nazi war effort.

Much later, he suggested that in modern times, the best scientists and engineers usually have to choose between either doing their work for more or less questionable business and military interests in a Faustian bargain, or not pursuing their line of work at all.

 

Konrad Zuse (1992).jpg

 

I wonder what Faustian bargains some scientists are having to make these days.

 

I also find it curious that this day marks the anniversary of an attempt on the life of Pope John Paul II (1920 – 2005), in Fátima, Portugal, on 12 May 1982.

He was in Fátima to celebrate the anniversary of an attempt on his life the previous year on 13 May 1981 in Rome.

Both attackers now roam the streets free.

Juan Maria Fernández y Krohn, his Fátima attacker, is a defrocked priest in Brussels, while Mehmet Ali Agca lives in Turkey, converted to Catholicism and wants to be a priest.

He whom they wanted to kill is long dead now.

 

John Paul II in 1985

 

Much ado is made by the first day back to almost normal in the media and already it seems social distancing is being tested as long lines are formed in front of luxury shops opened for the first time in ten weeks.

Oh, the applause!

Oh, the happiness!

Oh, oh, the social distance!

 

A symbolic date for the reopening of the Longemalle Boutique in Geneva

 

And though 41 of 45 European countries have relaxed their restrictions, no nation has yet unilaterally opened its borders to its neighbours.

 

European countries set to lift coronavirus blockages within days ...

 

And, of course, why worry about the corona virus exclusively?

 

Everyone wants to know:

 

Did a hospital patient die from eating cheese from a Steinerberg factory?

Käserei Vogel Steinerberg - Unsere Käse - Steinerberger viertelfett

 

Did you hear about the bomb threat upon the town of Pieterlen?

 

2011-01-13 Pieterlen (Foto Dietrich Michael Weidmann) 093.JPG

 

Or the teenager with the racist WhatsApp group?

 

WhatsApp Application software Message Icon, Whatsapp logo, Whats ...

 

Or the Canadian teenager who drove his dad’s car at 308 km/h (119 mph)?

 

Canadian Teenagers Rammed Across the Border in High-Speed Police Chase

 

And have you heard of how we can now buy masks and disinfectant in Selecta vending machines?

 

20min - Im Selecta-Automat gibts jetzt Masken und Desinfektionsmittel

 

In fact, it all seems a bit boring.

Cafés are a third full, shops half empty, museums as barren as the Moon.

And somehow everything feels like a sadder cover version of Don McLean’s “American Pie” as we read of a music shop in St. Gallen closing after 40 years….

 

Plattenladen für 35'000 Franken zu kaufen - Radio FM1

 

“I met a girl who sang the blues
And I asked her for some happy news
But she just smiled and turned away.
I went down to the sacred store
Where I’d heard the music years before
But the man there said the music wouldn’t play.
And in the streets the children screamed
The lovers cried and the poets dreamed
But not a word was spoken
The church bells all were broken.
And the three men I admire the most
The Father, Son and the Holy Ghost
They caught the last train for the coast
The day the music died….”

 

American Pie [Vinyl LP] - Don McLean: Amazon.de: Musik

 

And yet, and yet, beyond the Sloughs of Despond….

 

In the Slough of Despond | ClipArt ETC

 

News from the Zürich Zoo:

The white rhinoceros cow Tanda gave birth to a calf….

 

Erstes Nashornbaby in der Zürcher Lewa-Savanne | Tierwelt

“Somethin’ tells me it’s all happening at the zoo
I do believe it
I do believe it’s true.
The monkeys stand for honesty
Giraffes are insincere
And the elephants are kindly but they’re dumb.
Orangutans are skeptical
Of changes in their cages
And the zookeeper is very fond of rum.
Zebras are reactionaries
Antelopes are missionaries
Pigeons plot in secrecy
And hamsters turn on frequently.
What a gas, you gotta come and see
At the zoo….”

 

Simon & Garfunkel - At The Zoo - hitparade.ch

 

Sometimes the animals are more trustworthy than humans who keep them or stare at them.

 

A man had an erotic chat with the police, thinking he was propositioning a four-year-old child.

 

Switzerland: Zurich police to be forced to name nationality and ...

 

President Trump’s staff is nervous after Vice President Pence’s press secretary Katie Miller tests positive for Covid-19.

 

Coronavirus Reaches White House | Voice of America - English

 

Meanwhile a secret document, which clearly isn’t secret anymore, warns of “armed conflict” between China and the United States.

Instead of remaining dispassionate and level-headed, Beijing is reacting to American hostility with dangerous conspiracy theories as to how the US is responsible for the corona virus.

 

US vs China Trade War: Who Does It Hurt?

 

But good news of a twisted sort….

Studies on those with prostrate cancer show that these patients rarely get Covid-19.

A mixed blessing?

 

 

This Tuesday was the penultimate day at Starbucks for me.

 

Messerstecher von St.Galler Starbucks nicht schuldfähig - TOP ONLINE

 

Good-bye, Momo and Davide, Naomi and Christina, and Alanna Banana.

Though I work my last day on Wednesday, they all have that day off, so this day is our last together for the foreseeable future.

 

Starbucks, St. Gallen, Marktgasse 9 - Restaurant menu and reviews

 

Being back was not so much fun.

I am asked to read and sign a ten-page booklet outlining the store’s new post corona virus rules and regulations.

I was required to wear a face mask and plastic gloves.

The former fogged my reading glasses and the latter kept ripping.

I was forbidden to touch anything but the cash register and the contents therein.

I so wanted to help my partners but the restrictions prevented me.

I returned home feeling disappointed with all of this enforced fear and simmering symptoms suspected from everything and everyone everywhere.

 

Stadt St.Gallen mobile | Starbucks Coffee Marktgasse

 

And the morning and the evening were Tuesday.

 

Wednesday 13 May 2020 was Garland Day.

 

Abbotsbury Garland Day | May 13 | KeepIn Calendar

 

Held on 13 May each and every year, the Abbotsbury Garland Day celebrations have taken place in this Dorset village since the early 19th century.

The custom involves the making of garlands (flower wreaths) by the children of the village.

 

Garland Day; Abbotsbury, England; May 12; A survival of old May ...

 

Originally only the children of local fishermen took part.

The garlands were blessed in a church service and some of them rowed out to sea to be tossed into the water.

The children would then spend the rest of the day playing on the beach.

 

Garland Day at Abbotsbury, Dorset | The Neptune Festival ...

 

After the First World War the custom changed somewhat in that children of non-fishermen started to take part.

This was probably due to the decline of the local fishing industry.

 

DARK DORSET - Dorset's premier website devoted to local folklore ...

 

The village school gave the children a day’s holiday and they would set about constructing two garlands: one of wild flowers and the other of garden flowers.

These were held aloft on poles and paraded from house to house in the village with the intention of collecting money which the children would keep.

Later in the day older children who had been at school in nearby Weymouth would arrive home and make a more elaborate garland which would also be taken around the village.

After the First World War, two garlands would be placed on the local war memorial.

 

Abbotsbury Garland Day, May 13th. Abbots bury, Dorset, used to ...

 

The Abbotsbury village school closed in 1981 and the children no longer get a holiday.

This has led to the celebrations taking place in the evening or on the nearest Saturday.

However a determination amongst the villagers has ensured that this English tradition survives, albeit in a different form from the original.

 

Abbotsbury Garland | BOOK OF DAYS TALES

 

Except in 2020, for the corona virus ravages the country and a gathering of children is a potential recipe for disaster.

 

Nevertheless, Abbotsbury strikes me as a place that I would one day like to visit, even if it wasn’t 13 May.

To see its long street of thatched stone houses and old market square sounds comforting somehow.

In a world of constant chaotic change the stability and tradition of Abbotsbury feels reassuring.

Abbotsbury abides.

 

Rodden Row - Abbotsbury - geograph.org.uk - 1595855.jpg

 

As does that which one wishes would disappear.

 

Fifteen years ago today, troops opened fire on unarmed crowds of protesters in Andijan, Uzbekistan, resulting in 1,500 deaths.

Their bodies were hidden in mass graves.

 

The Andijan Massacre Remembered | Amnesty International

 

The Uzbek government eventually acknowledged that the nation’s poor economic conditions and popular resentment played a role in the uprising.

Non-governmental human rights organizations define Uzbekistan as “an authoritarian state with limited civil rights” and express profound concern about “wide-scale violation of virtually all basic human rights“.

 

Maps of Asia Regional Political City: Uzbekistan Map Political ...

 

According to reports, the most widespread violations are torture, arbitrary arrests and various restrictions of freedoms: of religion, of speech and press, of free association and assembly.

The violations are most often committed against members of religious organizations, independent journalists, human rights activitists and political activists, including members of the banned opposition parties.

 

Flag of Uzbekistan

 

Uzbekistan also maintains the world’s second-highest rate of modern slavery – 1.2 million modern slaves, mostly in the cotton industry.

Although Uzbekistan is primarily a Muslim nation, only two mainstream religions – Orthodox Christianity and Judaism – are tolerated by the state.

But Uzbekistan is too far away for anyone to notice.

 

What is not seen generates no concern nor compassion.

 

State emblem[1] of Uzbekistan

 

Better instead to wonder if we will ever see the sea again in 2020.

Better instead to focus on the victories of there being no more new cases in Ticino, the hardest-hit by the corona virus.

Better instead to deal with problems closer at hand.

 

Everyone focuses on other matters besides the boring pandemic that still lacks a vaccine.

 

Are pesticides polluting our ground water?

 

SilentSpring.jpg

 

Will the borders open soon?

 

Map of Switzerland

 

How do we handle the case of the 53-year-old Montenegrin man who can no longer remember deliberately killing his wife?

 

How do we prevent the closure of cheese factories affected by listeria?

 

Why would anyone fake being a police officer in the town of Zollikon?

 

Zollikon DJI.jpg

 

How do we manage young climate protesters calling on Swiss men to refuse to serve in the military?

 

Swiss army under effective quarantine after soldier catches COVID ...

 

These are strange times we live in.

 

  • Deer are shot in a cemetery in Riehen (near Basel)

 

Stadtgärtnerei und Gemeinde Riehen wollen auf dem Hörnli Rehe ...

  • A Czech man has collected 280,000 dead beetles (two dead Beatles are already two too many)

 

Käfer – Wikipedia

 

  • Masks are required for everyone except Trump

 

Trump toured a mask factory without a face mask on as 'Live and ...

 

  • A grounded airline industry is not dissuading Ryanair from planning almost 1,000 flights a day

 

Ryanair to cut flights after 737 Max delays - BBC News

 

  • Mannequins are used to fill half-empty restaurants so guests in Laatzen, Germany, don’t feel so isolated

 

PressReader - 20 Minuten - Basel: 2020-05-13 - Stumme Gesellschaft ...

 

  • One in four Swiss say they want to travel less after the corona crisis has passed.

 

  • Are llamas a cure for corona?

 

Can Llamas Save Us From the Coronavirus?

 

  • Why does Mexico, the country of Corona beer, have the best grip on the corona crisis and why is tequila becoming scarce?

 

Mexico stops brewing Corona beer, deemed non-essential in epidemic

 

  • Wuhan is again in a panic as corona cases re-emerge.

 

Update: So trifft das Wuhan-Coronavirus die Wirtschaft ...

 

  • Three thousand lawsuits against the Spanish government have been brought on the charge of “pre-meditated murder” as survivors of the corona crisis sue Spain for inadequately protecting the nation against Covid-19.

 

Map of Spain

 

  • Coffee filters are made into face masks.

 

Pin on crafts

 

  • Where grim records recount the lonely deaths of many virus patients in Florida with the words: “Found unresponsive at home

 

Map of Florida State, USA - Nations Online Project

 

  • What do we do without migrant labour?  Who will do the jobs we won’t?

 

Farmworker - Wikipedia

 

  • Does history have to horrify? An “interactive” Holocaust exhibition in Kyiv (Ukraine) sorts visitors into “executioners” and “victims“.

 

Austrian Bureau Selected to Design the Babyn Yar Holocaust ...

 

  • Democrat Christy Smith concedes defeat to Republican Mike Garcia in Tuesday’s special election for California’s 25th congressional district – the first time since 1998 that Republicans flipped a Democratic-held House seat in California.

 

Californication (song) - Wikipedia

 

The special election had been held following Representative Katie Hill’s resignation on 3 November 2019.

Katie Hill, official portrait, 116th Congress.jpg

 

Hill’s house of cards collapsed in October when RedState, a conservative blog, published a report on an alleged affair between Hill and one of her staff, followed by nude photos of Hill published by British tabloid the Daily Mail without her consent.

Hill called the photos an invasion of privacy and claims the rumours of her alleged affair and the distribution of the photos were acts of revenge perpetrated by her recently divorced husband, Kenny Heslep.

 

Katie Hill 'throuple' partner Morgan Desjardins praised boss in 2018

 

In her last speech before Congress on 31 October 2019, Hill said there was a “double standard” and “misogynistic culture” that resulted in her decision to step down from her position when faced with allegations of an improper relationship with a staff person.

In the address to Congress she said:

I’m leaving, but we have men who have been credibly accused of intentional acts of sexual violence and remain in boardrooms, on the Supreme Court, in this very body, and worst of all, in the Oval Office.

She closed by saying:

As my final act I voted to move forward with the impeachment of Donald Trump on behalf of the women of the United States of America.”

 

Katie Hill to resign amid allegations of improper relationships ...

 

Hill came out as bisexual after high school.

She is California’s first openly bisexual person to be elected to Congress.

In July 2010, Hill married Kenny Heslep, an artist.

They resided in Agua Dulce, California, on their farm, where they fostered rescue animals.

By July 2019, Hill was in a romantic relationship with Alex Thomas, a political reporter.

Hill also rented an apartment in Washington DC, with freshman representative Lauren Underwood.

Heslep filed for divorce in 2019.

 

Rep. Katie Hill resigns after allegations of improper ...

 

It is hard to know how to view Hill’s situation.

 

On the one hand, Hill is right in that our private lives are our own business and that her sexuality should not affect her ability to represent her constituents.

 

Katy Hill's Feet << wikiFeet

 

But whether she likes it or not, Hill was a public figure who needed to remember that as a lawmaker she represents moral standards and is supposed to be a role model of sound and sober judgment.

She has the right to be intimate with whomsoever she chooses and had she conducted her affairs with more discretion she would still be representing California today.

 

Map of California State, USA - Nations Online Project

 

Heslep may not have reacted to her affair and their divorce in an appropriate manner, but it certainly comes as no surprise that the man might react to the public embarrassment that her actions put him in.

It does strike me as both vain and foolish that anyone would allow themselves to be photographed in the buff in a world where so many relationships turn sour and photos could be used later against them.

 

MeToo Nude Congresswoman Katie Hill Scandal Worsens: Staffer Felt ...

 

I comprehend desire and passion and cannot condemn too harshly those who stray from their commitments to their significant others.

But it was foolish to think that her actions would be without consequences.

In allowing herself to be photographed au naturel and in indulging her carnal nature, Hill planted the seeds of her own political destruction.

Hill may feel that what has happened to her was a tragedy, but it was a tragedy of her own making.

 

California Rep. Katie Hill resigns over allegations of affair ...

 

Everybody’s talking and no one says a word
Everybody’s making love and no one really cares
There’s Nazis in the bathroom just below the stairs.
Always something happening and nothing going on
There’s always something cooking and nothing in the pot
They’re starving back in China so finish what you got.
Nobody told me there’d be days like these
Nobody told me there’d be days like these
Nobody told me there’d be days like these
Strange days indeed — strange days indeed.
Everybody’s runnin’ and no one makes a move
Everyone’s a winner and nothing left to lose
There’s a little yellow idol to the north of Katmandu.
Everybody’s flying and no one leaves the ground
Everybody’s crying and no one makes a sound
There’s a place for us in the movies you just gotta lay around….
John Lennon / Yoko Ono - Nobody Told Me / O' Sanity (1983, Vinyl ...
And Wednesday was my last day at Starbucks.
I say Adios to my lovely Mexican boss Rosio, and Tschus to tough-as-nails tattooed veneer, sensitive souled Swiss shift manager Gundy and to quietly competent Swiss student Jessica.
I will see them and the others of my former store again, for I am frequently in St. Gallen, and should my job search for something else be unsuccessful I may even apply to return.
Starbucks Model a 'Take-away' Only Medium for the US and Canada ...
For, let’s be honest with myself, age discrimination and xenophobia in Switzerland cannot be completely disregarded as factors in finding new employment.
But I remain cautiously optimistic….
Largest Swiss flag in the world damaged by torrential rain in the ...

And on that Wednesday night of 13 May 2020, on the eve of my 55th birthday, I found myself considering my own life, the mistakes I have made that have led to the place where I am.

I am here because of the choices I have made.

I will remain here or not because of choices I will make.

 

I don’t need you to worry for me ’cause I’m alright
I don’t want you to tell me it’s time to come home
I don’t care what you say anymore this is my life
Go ahead with your own life, leave me alone.
I never said you had to offer me a second chance
I never said I was a victim of circumstance.
I still belong
Don’t get me wrong
And you can speak your mind
But not on my time.
They will tell you you can’t sleep alone in a strange place
Then they’ll tell you can’t sleep with somebody else
Ah but sooner or later you sleep in your own space
Either way it’s O.K. you wake up with yourself….

 

My Life (Billy Joel song) - Wikipedia

 

In a way the personal insecurity I feel seems manifested in the world around me.

None of us know what tomorrow will bring.

None of us know how long we each have.

None of us know if fortune will smile on us or let us go free.

 

Galaxy LED Crystal Ball - MainStreet Unique Items

 

The only thing I know for certain is that I have this moment.

 

And I am honoured and humbled that you have chosen this moment of your precious time to read these words.

May the pleasure I had in writing these words be a pleasure for you to read.

 

“Smile an everlasting smile.
A smile can bring you near to me.
Don’t ever let me find you gone
‘Cause that would bring a tear to me.

This world has lost its glory.
Let’s start a brand new story.
Now, my love,

Right now,
There’ll be no other time
I can show you how, my love.

Talk in everlasting words
And dedicate them all to me.
And I will give you all my life.
I’m here if you should call to me.

You think that I don’t even mean
A single word I say.

It’s only words and words are all I have
To take your heart away…..”

Bee Gees - Words - hitparade.ch

 

To be continued….

 

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Albert Camus, The Plague / NZZ am Sonntag / 20 Minuten / Thurgauer Zeitung / New York Times / Don McLean, “American Pie” / Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel, “At the Zoo” / John Lennon, “Nobody Told Me” / Billy Joel, “My Life” / Bee Gees, “Words

 

Barry Manilow - Looks Like We Made It (1976, Vinyl) | Discogs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Canada Slim and the Pandemic Path

Landschlacht, Switzerland, Wednesday 18 March 2020 (Lockdown Day #3)

(Continued from Canada Slim and the Girl with Kaleidoscope Eyes)

Morgan, if we are somewhat similar in nature – and I believe we are, at least a bit, despite differences in age and life experience – the ongoing world lockdown and pandemic panic has left you feeling somewhat restless and irritated.

 

 

Here in Switzerland, one can buy only basic necessities, discouraged from associating with anyone else, bored with what little excitement being indoors provides.

Sporting events cancelled.

Performances cancelled.

No library, no cinema, no bookshop, no café, no magazine stand, no theatre, no gym.

And Switzerland and Canada are mildly oppressive and restrictive compared to nations like France, Italy and Spain.

And everything that is happening in the world makes us wonder about the future.

 

Flag of Switzerland

 

The country I have considered working in?

 

The number of corona virus cases in Turkey has risen to 98, with 51 new cases confirmed,

Health Minister Fahrettin Koca announced Tuesday night, adding that the disease claimed its first victim in the country.

“The patient that fell victim to coronavirus is found to have contracted the disease from a Chinese employee.”, he said.

Koca had announced earlier that Turkey would ban flights from nine additional countries starting Tuesday, bringing the total number of restricted countries to 20.

 

Flag of Turkey

 

As Ankara heightens its measures to curb the outbreak, the Interior Ministry ordered the nationwide closure of almost all social gathering places, including cafes, cinemas, gyms and wedding halls.

The Ministry earlier ordered all bars, discos and nightclubs to be closed as well.

The country’s top religious authority, the Presidency of Religious Affairs (Diyanet), announced a ban on prayer gatherings, including Friday prayers, while leaving the mosques open to people who want to perform daily prayers.

The government had previously closed schools for two weeks starting on 16 March, while universities were shut for three weeks.

 

 

There is something depressing about closing one of the few places where in these terrifying times many people draw strength from.

Why not limit numbers into the house of worship, treating moral and spiritual hunger on a par with physical hunger?

 

 

Just “next door” in Ontario…..

 

Premier Doug Ford has declared a state of emergency for Ontario due to the novel corona virus outbreak.

“This morning, I have declared a state of emergency in the province of Ontario,” Ford told reporters at Queen’s Park on Tuesday.

However, Ford said this is not a provincial shutdown.

“The vast majority of businesses, including those most vital for day-to-day life, will not be affected by this order,” he said.

“Essential services and essential needs will be available to every individual and families.”

 

Ford said grocery stores, convenience stores, pharmacies, manufacturing facilities, public transit, important public services, construction sites and office buildings will all continue to operate.

 

Doug Ford in Toronto - 2018 (41065995960) (cropped).jpg

Above: Doug Ford

 

(Ever notice that venues that encourage freedom of expression and thought are the first closed while that which generates money the last?)

 

 

“Right now, we need to do everything we can to slow the spread of COVID-19 in order to avoid overwhelming our health care system.”, Ford added.

The province is using the Emergency Management and Civil Protection Act.

 

 

Above: Queen’s Park / Ontario Legislature, Toronto

 

(Our democracy is easily disregarded in an emergency.

In a panic, pragmatism pushes apart our principles.)

 

 

On Monday, the premier expanded the province’s recommended closures to include all recreation programs, libraries, private schools, daycares, churches and other faith settings, as well as bars and restaurants, except those that offer takeout or delivery.

This order is now effective immediately, Ford said.

 

File:Coat of arms of Ontario.svg

 

According to the province, as a result of this declaration and its associated orders, the following establishments are legally required to close immediately:

  • All facilities providing indoor recreational programs.
  • All public libraries.
  • All private schools as defined in the Education Act.
  • All licensed child care centres.
  • All bars and restaurants, except to the extent that such facilities provide takeout food and delivery.
  • All theatres including those offering live performances of music, dance, and other art forms, as well as cinemas that show movies.
  • Concert venues.

 

A red flag with a large Union Jack in the upper left corner and a shield in the center-right

 

(Ever notice how the law justifies the suspension of law?

As well, how many of us actually know what our laws say?)

 

 

The government said these orders were approved by the Lieutenant Governor in Council and will remain in place until 31 March 2020.

 

Elizabeth Dowdeswell, 2017 (cropped).jpg

Above: Lieutenant Governor Elizabeth Dodeswell

 

(Well, if the Lieutenant Governor says it’s OK….)

 

 

Ford said that at the advice of Ontario’s chief medical officer of health, Dr. David Williams, the closures are meant to avoid social gatherings of more than 50 people.

“This decision was not made lightly.”, Ford said.

 

Ontario Ministry of Health logo.png

 

The premier also announced the first stage of the province’s COVID-19 emergency relief package, which will include $300 million to support the fight against the virus.

“We are going to bring 75 more critical beds online, 500 post-acute care beds and help hospitals set up 25 more COVID-19 assessment centres.”, Ford said.

“We’re backing up our front-line public health workers with more resources for monitoring and testing.

We are purchasing more personal protective equipment like masks, gloves, surgical gowns for nurses, doctors and personal support workers as well as more ventilators.”

VIP Bird2.jpg
Ontario announced eight new confirmed cases on Tuesday morning.
The total number of active cases for Ontario is 180, five cases are now resolved.
More than 11,000 people have been tested for COVID-19 so far in the province.
Late Tuesday morning, Health Minister Christine Elliott confirmed to Global News that a 77-year-old man has died, possibly as a result of close contact with another positive coronavirus case in Barrie.

The man wasn’t confirmed to have contracted the virus until it was found in his system post-death, Elliott said.

“The matter, at our request, is now being investigated by the Coroner’s office to determine whether this person passed away because of COVID-19 or with COVID-19.

That’s a really important distinction.”, Elliott said adding that they will not officially know for at least one day.

She added that the deceased had other physical problems.

 

Image result for Health Minister Christine Elliott images

Above: Christine Elliott

 

 

As to Montréal’s neighbour to the south….

 

The first US case of the corona virus was reported in January — a Washington State man who had recently returned from China.

Almost two months later, the country has recorded more than 8,700 cases in all 50 states, Puerto Rico, the US Virgin Islands and the District of Columbia.

 

Flag of the United States

 

At least 149 people have died, including 67 in Washington State, 21 in New York and 17 in California.
West Virginia reported its first case Tuesday, becoming the 50th state to have one.
New York now has more than 2,900 cases, more than twice as much as any other state.
Map of the United States with New York highlighted
(And, as you well know, the closest state to Montréal is New York.)
As local leaders work to curb the spread of the virus within the US, health officials say they expect the number of cases to keep climbing as more people are tested.
The people in the US who have tested positive includes:
– 46 who were repatriated from the Diamond Princess cruise ship docked in Japan
– 21 repatriated from the Grand Princess cruise ship stuck for days off California
– 3 repatriated from Wuhan, China.
Coat of arms of the United States
In Brazil, a land known for happiness and celebration…..
Hundreds of inmates escape from a prison in Mongaguá after rioting over new coronavirus restrictions.
Riots and escapes are also reported at prisons in Mirandópolis, Porto Feliz and Tremembé with as many as 1,000 prisoners on the loose.
At least 174 have been recaptured by police.

Flag of Brazil

 

In my neck of the woods….

 

The EU is banning travellers from outside the bloc for 30 days in an unprecedented move to seal its borders amid the corona virus crisis.

The measure is expected to apply to 26 EU states, as well as Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Switzerland.

UK citizens will be unaffected.

The ban came as deaths continued to soar in Italy and Spain, and France began a strict lockdown.

Europe has been badly hit by the virus, which has killed 7,500 globally.

More than 185,000 people have been infected worldwide, according to the World Health Organization.

Meanwhile, the Euro 2020 football competition has been postponed by a year.

 

Circle of 12 gold stars on a blue background

 

The travel ban will affect all non-EU nationals from visiting the bloc, except long-term residents, family members of EU nationals and diplomats, cross-border and healthcare workers, and people transporting goods.

Free travel is a cherished principle within the European border-free Schengen area.

But in recent days many countries have unilaterally imposed full or partial border shutdowns in a bid to stop the spread of the coronavirus.

This prompted the commission to propose that the bloc act in a more unified fashion and restrict entry to the union as a whole, at the urging of French President Emmanuel Macron.

 

Europe orthographic Caucasus Urals boundary (with borders).svg

 

The measures were agreed in a video-summit between EU leaders on Tuesday afternoon and will now have to be implemented by member states.

“They said they will immediately do that.”, said EU Commission chief Ursula von der Leyen at a press conference.

“This is good, so that we have a unanimous and united approach where the external borders are concerned.”

The UK and the Republic of Ireland – which is part of the EU but not Schengen – will be invited to join the measure.

It was also crucial that the EU “unblocks the situation” with regards to closed internal borders,

Mrs Von der Leyen said, because “too many people are stranded”.

 

(Ursula von der Leyen) EPP Summit, Brussels, 12 December 2019 (49207921333) (cropped).jpg

Above: Ursula von der Leyen

 

In France , citizens who leave home must now carry a document detailing the reasons why, with fines for transgressors to be set at €135 ($150; £123).

It comes after President Macron put the country on a war-footing, ordering the population to stay at home and only go out for essential trips.

The number of confirmed cases in France grew by more than 16% on Tuesday, reaching 7,730, The death toll rose to 175, with 7% of the dead aged under 65.

More than 2,500 people are being treated in hospital, including 699 in intensive care.

 

Flag of France

 

In Britain , where the death toll is 71, people have been told to avoid social contact, work from home if they can and avoid all non-essential foreign travel.

The chancellor, Rishi Sunak, has unveiled a financial package worth £330bn ($400bn) to ease the burden caused by the virus, after Prime Minister Boris Johnson on Monday urged people to avoid pubs, clubs and cafes.

Meanwhile, the government’s chief scientific adviser said it would be a “good outcome” if 20,000 or fewer people died of the virus in the UK.

The latest set of Brexit talks has also been delayed.

 

A flag featuring both cross and saltire in red, white and blue

 

The number of confirmed cases in Spain has soared by 2,000 to 11,178.

Authorities there are maintaining a partial lockdown on 47 million people.

It is now the European country worst affected after Italy.

At midnight Spain began stopping cars crossing its borders from France and Portugal.

Only Spanish nationals, residents and cross-border workers were being allowed to enter the country.

 

Flag of Spain

 

Italy, which has registered the most cases outside China at more than 31,500, announced another surge in deaths on Tuesday, from 2,150 to 2,503.

The country remains in lockdown.

The government, meanwhile, is set to renationalise flag carrier airline Alitalia with a rescue package worth $670m (£550m).

 

Flag of Italy

 

Germany, which has had more than 8,000 confirmed cases and 13 deaths, banned religious services and told people to cancel any domestic or foreign holiday travel.

Venues including clubs, bars, leisure facilities, zoos and playgrounds will be closed.

Schools are already shut.

 

Flag of Germany

 

Ireland could have 15,000 cases of coronavirus before the end of March, said PM Leo Varadkar.

In a St Patrick’s Day address, he warned of “significant and lasting” economic damage, and said the emergency could last into the summer.

The government has already closed pubs, schools and universities.

 

Flag of Ireland

 

Elsewhere in Europe:

  • Belgium’s death toll doubled from five to ten on Tuesday.
  • Sweden is to close all high schools and universities from Wednesday.
  • Orthodox priests in Georgia have started blessing the streets of the capital Tbilisi with holy water.

 

 

One consolation for America is that many of its perceived enemies are rather too busy to contemplate attacking the US…..

 

 

Iran issued its most dire warning yet Tuesday about the new corona virus ravaging the country, suggesting “millions” could die in the Islamic Republic if people keep travelling and ignore health guidance.

A state TV journalist who also is a medical doctor gave the warning only hours after hard-line Shiite faithful on Monday night pushed their way into the courtyards of two major shrines that were finally closed due to the virus.

Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei issued a religious ruling prohibiting “unnecessary” travel.

 

Flag of Iran

 

Roughly 9 out of 10 of the over 18,000 confirmed cases of the virus in the Middle East come from Iran, where authorities denied for days the risk the outbreak posed.

 

 

Officials have implemented new checks for people trying to leave major cities ahead of Nowruz, the Persian New Year, on Friday, but have hesitated to quarantine the areas.

The death toll in Iran saw another 13% increase Tuesday.

 

Above: Painting huge eggs for Nowruz in Tehran

 

Health Ministry spokesman Kianoush Jahanpour said the virus had killed 135 more people to raise the total to 988 amid over 16,000 cases.

 

Image result for Health Minister Kianoush Jahanpour images

Above: Kianoush Jahanpour

 

In announcing the new warning, the Iranian state TV journalist, Dr. Afruz Eslami, cited a study by Tehran’s prestigious Sharif University of Technology, which offered three scenarios:

  • If people cooperate fully now, Iran will see 120,000 infections and 12,000 deaths before the outbreak is over.
  • If they offer medium cooperation, there will be 300,000 cases and 110,000 deaths.
  • But if people fail to follow any guidance, it could collapse Iran’s already-strained medical system, Eslami said.

If the “medical facilities are not sufficient, there will be 4 million cases, and 3.5 million people will die,” she said.

Eslami did not elaborate on what metrics the study used, but even reporting it on Iran’s tightly controlled state media represented a major change for a country whose officials had for days denied the severity of the crisis.

 

Image result for Dr. Afruz Eslami images

 

Underlining that urgency was the fatwa issued by Khamenei, which prohibited “unnecessary” travel.

It comes as the public ignored repeated warnings and pleas from security forces.

Such a decree is rare by Khamenei, who has the final say on all state matters.

Some Iranian media later said Khamenei hadn’t issued a fatwa, though semi-official news agencies believed to be close to the paramilitary Revolutionary Guard said the order had been made.

 

Ali Khamenei crop.jpg

Above: Iranian President Ali Khamenei

 

Late Monday night, angry crowds stormed the courtyards of the Imam Reza shrine in Mashhad and the Fatima Masumeh shrine in Qom.

Many people visit the shrine in Qom 24 hours a day, seven days a week, touching and kissing the shrine.

That has worried health officials, who for weeks wanted Iran’s Shiite clergy to close them.

State TV had announced the closures earlier in the day, sparking the demonstrations.

“We are here to say that Tehran is damn wrong to do that!”, one Shiite cleric shouted at the shrine in Mashhad, according to online video.

Others joined him in chanting:

“The Health Minister is damn wrong to do that, the President is damn wrong to do that!”

Police later dispersed the crowds and made arrests.

Religious authorities and a prominent Qom seminary called the demonstration an “insult” to the shrine.

Iran’s shrines draw Shiite pilgrims from all over, likely contributing to the virus’ regional spread.

 

Image result for Dr. Afruz Eslami images

 

Saudi Arabia has closed off Islam’s holiest sites and on Tuesday said it would halt communal Friday prayers in the kingdom.

President Hassan Rouhani said that despite the closures, “our soul is closer to the saints more than at any time.”

 

Flag of Saudi Arabia

 

State TV reported teams were deployed to screen travelers leaving major cities in 13 provinces, including the capital, Tehran.

But Iran has 31 provinces and authorities haven’t tried to lock down the country the way its allies Iraq and Lebanon have done.

The teams check travelers and send those with fevers to quarantine centers.

Iran has been urging people to stay home, but many ignore the call.

 

Image result for provincial map of iran images

 

In apparent efforts to try to curb the spread, Iran has released 85,000 prisoners on temporary leave, judiciary spokesman Gholam Hossein Esmaili said.

That number included half of all “security-related” prisoners, he said without elaborating.

Western nations have urged Iran to release dual nationals and others, alleging they are used as bargaining chips in negotiations.

 

Among those released is Mohammad Hossein Karroubi, the son of opposition leader Mehdi Karroubi, who was in jail for nearly two months.

 

Image result for Mohammad Hossein Karroubi images

Above: Mohammad Hossein Karroubi

 

Also temporarily freed was Nazanin Zaghari-Ratcliffe, an Iranian-British dual national long held on internationally criticized charges.

Zaghari-Ratcliffe, who works for the charitable Thomson Reuters Foundation, was arrested in 2016 on charges of trying to topple the government while traveling with her toddler daughter.

 

Image result for Nazanin Zaghari-Ratcliffe images

Above: Nazanin Zaghari-Ratcliffe

 

Jordan announced a state of emergency, banning gatherings of more than 10 people and Israel issued its own strict guidelines.

In Jordan, King Abdullah II by royal decree declared a national emergency over the virus outbreak, which allows the suspension of laws and grants greater powers to the state to restrict public gatherings and make arrests.

Troops were deployed outside of Jordan’s major cities to block travel, newspapers were ordered to stop publishing, gatherings of more than 10 people were banned and a quarantine zone was established at Dead Sea hotels.

It also halted all private sector work and public transportation as well.

 

Flag of Jordan

 

In Oman, the sultanate announced anyone coming from abroad would be subject to quarantine.

 

Flag of Oman

 

Israel’s Defense Ministry plans to use near-empty hotels, as recovery centers for patients with COVID-19, the illness caused by the virus.

Israel also urged citizens to stay home, closing parks, museums, libraries, beaches and other public areas.

Centered blue star within a horizontal triband

 

In Syria, all sports clubs, movie theaters, concerts, theaters, as well as halls used for weddings or funerals were ordered closed in Damascus, and all restaurants and other shops around the country were ordered shut.

Syria says it has no cases of the virus.

 

Flag of Syria

 

Pakistan’s number of coronavirus cases rose to 237 although no deaths have been reported.

Government critics blame improper border screenings for thousands of pilgrims returning from Iran this month.

Prime Minister Imran Khan warned that the disease will spread, but said the public “should not fret as most of the people easily recover.”

 

Flag of Pakistan

 

Most infected people experience only mild or moderate symptoms, such as fever and cough, and recover within weeks.

But the virus is highly contagious and can be spread by people with no visible symptoms.

For some, especially older adults and people with existing health problems, it can cause more severe illness, including pneumonia.

 

 

 

Above: Personal protective equipment

 

In one country where I have fond memories….

 

Malaysia reported its first two deaths from the corona virus pandemic on Tuesday 17 March, as the number of confirmed cases reached 673.

 

A blue rectangle with a gold star and crescent in the canton, with 14 horizontal red and white lines on the rest of the flag

 

According to a statement issued by the Sarawak State Disaster Management Committee, the first victim, a 60-year-old pastor from the Emmanuel Baptist Church in the state capital Kuching died in Sarawak General Hospital at 11am on Tuesday.

He was later identified in local media as Pastor David Cheng.

The state health department said it is still in the process of tracking down the source of Mr Cheng’s infection.

The committee said 193 close contacts of Mr Cheng have been traced and are undergoing home quarantine.

 

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Above: Sarawak General Hospital

 

The second victim was a 34-year-old man who had died at the Hospital Permai in Johor on Tuesday, the Health Ministry said.

He had attended a mass religious gathering by the Tabligh missionary group held in late February at a mosque in Kuala Lumpur.

More than half of the cases in Malaysia stem from the religious event, which was attended by about 16,000 people, including Singapore and Brunei nationals.

 

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Malaysia has the highest tally of infections in Southeast Asia.

 

On Wednesday it will implement new measures to limit the movement of its residents in a bid to curb the virus’ spread.

All schools, universities and businesses nationwide will be shut and all public gatherings banned from 18 to 31 March.

During the two-week period, citizens will not be allowed to travel overseas, and those returning from abroad will have to undergo a health examination and self-quarantine for 14 days.

Tourists will not be allowed to enter the country during this period.

Essential services will continue operating, including food stores, banks, pharmacies and transportation.

 

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And our Australian cousins are not immune from this insanity….

 

A Woolworths employee trying to collect trolleys has been stabbed by a customer in a major escalation in violence at Australian supermarkets.

As chaotic scenes played out at supermarkets around the nation, police said the 37-year-old was stabbed in the car park of the Rosebud supermarket, on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula, this afternoon.

It is believed a staff member was collecting trolleys when he was approached by an unknown man and stabbed to the lower body just before 1 pm.

Paramedics were called to the scene about 12.55 pm and treated a man for a lower body injury.

A Rosebud man was airlifted to hospital with non-life threatening injuries.

Police have arrested a 25-year-old man in relation to the incident.

 

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Witness Deb said the Woolworths store went into lockdown and was taped off by police.

She told 3AW there were three police cars and two ambulances at the scene.

“We saw everyone running in there.”, she said.

“It is quite scary actually.”

 

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The incident comes after days of tension among shoppers sometimes fighting over limited stock on shelves including toilet paper, soap and other essentials due to panic buying.

 

Elsewhere, an angry shopper accused of striking a Coles employee with a stick in Melbourne has been charged.

The 43-year-old man was held down in a citizen’s arrest by a group of customers at the Brunswick supermarket about 8:30 pm on Sunday.

Police spokeswoman Nikki Ladgrove confirmed the incident at the Sydney Road store but said the staff member did not require medical treatment.

“A passer-by who intervened and rendered assistance sustained minor injuries during the incident.”, she said.

“The 43-year-old man was charged with recklessly causing injury, unlawful assault, assault with a weapon and possessing a dangerous article.”

 

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It comes after footage emerged of yet another clash over toilet paper emerged between a Coles employee and a customer.

Major supermarkets continue to take steps to protect their staff from abusive shoppers caught up in panic buying.

In the video, which was shared on Coles’ Facebook page by an onlooker, a female staff member can be seen standing on a pallet handing out toilet paper to customers.

A male customer refuses requests from another staff member to leave the supermarket and continues to badger the employee handing out toilet paper.

 

“Answer my question, please.

Who is the big one for?”, he asks.

“Just get out!

I am being fair by giving it out randomly.”, the female staff member replies.

But the man refuses to leave, accusing her of “not being fair”.

“If you were a man I would smash your face!”, he said.

“Get out!

Get out, you piece of sh*t!”, the staff member screams, before the man is escorted away by a security guard.

The employee returns to handing out the toilet paper, telling the next customer:

“Sorry, I lost my temper.”

 

The man ignored requests to leave the store and continued to ask who the staff member was giving the large packs of toilet paper to. Picture: Facebook

 

As of 19 March 2020, 707 cases have been reported in the country with most cases being in New South Wales with 306.

The first case to be recorded in Australia was on 25 January 2020 in Victoria when a man returning from Wuhan, China, was tested positive for the corona virus.

The overwhelming number of cases to date have been contracted while outside the country, with only a few arising from local community transmission.

 

A blue field with the Union Flag in the upper hoist quarter, a large white seven-pointed star in the lower hoist quarter, and constellation of five white stars in the fly – one small five-pointed star and four, larger, seven-pointed stars.

 

In Japan….

 

The President of the Japan Football Association and deputy Olympic Committee chief Kozo Tashima tests positive for COVID-19.

Japan insists the 2020 Summer Olympics will still go ahead as planned.

 

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In Japan, as of 18 March 2020, there are 914 confirmed cases of the corona virus, from which 31 persons have died.

On 16 March, it was reported that the Japanese government plans to expand entry restrictions to foreigners from four new countries.

They will apply to three areas in Spain (including Madrid), four areas in Italy (including the northern region of Liguria), Switzerland’s Ticino region, and all of Iceland.

Japan is currently restricting entry by foreigners who have recently visited China, South Korea, Italy and Iran.

 

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Although no vaccine has completed clinical trials, there are multiple attempts in progress to develop such a vaccine.

In late February 2020, the World Health Organization (WHO) said it did not expect a vaccine against SARS-CoV-2, the causative virus, to become available in less than 18 months.

 

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By early March 2020, some 30 vaccine candidates were in development.

Organizations working to develop vaccines include:

  • the Chinese Center for Disease Control and Prevention
  • University of Hong Kong
  • Washington University in St. Louis
  • Three vaccine projects are being supported by the Coalition for Epidemic Preparedness Innovations (CEPI), including projects by the biotechnology companies Moderna, Inovio Pharmaceuticals, and the University of Queensland.
  • National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Disease (NIAID) collaborated with Moderna to develop an RNA vaccine matching a spike of the corona virus surface. In February 2020, NIAID registered a Phase 1 clinical trial of the vaccine, called mRNA-1273, open for recruitment in Seattle. On 16 March 2020, the human study began.
  • Inovio Pharmaceuticals is developing a DNA-based vaccination in collaboration with a Chinese firm, planning human clinical trials in the summer of the Northern Hemisphere of 2020.
  • In Australia, the University of Queensland is investigating the potential of a molecular clamp vaccine that would genetically modify viral proteins in order to stimulate an immune reaction.
  • In Canada, the International Vaccine Centre (VIDO-InterVac), University of Saskatchewan, received federal funding to work on a vaccine, aiming to start non-human animal testing in March 2020 and human testing in 2021.
  • In January 2020, Janssen Pharmaceutical Companies began work on developing a vaccine. Janssen is codeveloping an oral vaccine with its biotechnology partner, Vaxart.
  • Emergent Biosolutions teamed with Novavax Inc. in the development and manufacture of a vaccine. The partners plan on preclinical testing and a phase 1 clinical trial by July 2020.
  • On 12 March 2020, India’s Health Ministry official from the National Institute of Virology, Pune said they are working with 11 isolates and that even on a fast track it would take at least around one-and-a-half to two years to develop a vaccine.
  • On 17 March 2020, American pharmaceutical company Pfizer announced a partnership with German company BioNTech to jointly develop a messenger RNA-based vaccine for COVID-19.
  • On 18 March 2020, Emergent BioSolutions announced a manufacturing deal with Vaxart to develop a vaccine.
  • Scientists at the Edward Jenner Institute for Vaccine Research of the University of Oxford are developing a vaccine candidate.

 

Social media posts have promoted a conspiracy theory claiming the virus behind COVID-19 was known and that a vaccine was already available, while in fact there is none.

The patents cited by various social media posts reference existing patents for genetic sequences and vaccines for other strains of the corona virus such as the SARS corona virus.

 

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Morgan, to all intents and purposes, things look like they will get worse before they get better.

 

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So, before Canada becomes like France, Italy or Spain….

Before Montréal becomes like Paris, Rome or Madrid….

 

 

Morgan, if you are anything like I am – and I suspect you are – then there is a tendency to disregard exploring the familiar because you sincerely doubt that there is anything new under the Arctic sun that shines upon Montréal.

It is difficult to see the magic of Montréal until you see this metropolis through the eyes of a tourist or a child.

 

 

Montréal is a joyful juxtaposition of old and new.

Canada’s second largest city – after Toronto – Montréal is geographically as close to the European coast as it is to Vancouver.

In look, taste and feel, it combines some of the finest aspects of both continents.

Its North American skyline of glass and concrete rises  above churches and monuments in a mélange of European styles as varied as Montréal’s social mix.

This is also the world’s second largest French-speaking city after Paris, but only two-thirds of the citizens are of French extraction.

The other third is a cosmopolitan mismash of les autres (the others), including British, Eastern Europeans, Chinese, Italians, Greeks, Jews, Latin Americans and Caribbeans.

The unforgettable result is a truly multidimensional city, with a global variety of restaurants, bars and clubs, matched by a calendar of festivals that make Montréal one of the most vibrant places in Canada.

 

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One could argue if you can’t see the world outside Montréal then you can discover the world inside Montréal.

But this vibrancy may be passé, blasé, invisible to you, because you know Montréal so well, perhaps too well (?), having spent much of your life there.

 

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Knowing of our mutual love of history (if made interesting) and politics, what follows below is a list of sites that can be seen within a full day’s itinerary.

Pack a lunch and clothing appropriate to the weather forecast.

Don a pair of good sturdy walking shoes.

 

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Morgan, by the time you read these words, I estimate the Metro underground system will still be functioning, albeit with distance parameters between passengers being in force.

If you can, avoid the Metro.

You want to see the City.

 

 

And though the Metro stations are not unattractive, that sense of journey that is important to an experience of geography is lost in the darkness of tunnels.

Walk where you can.

Hop on a bus when the distance is too great or an area unsafe for pedestrians.

 

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Above: Logo for the Société de Transport de Montréal

 

Below is a list of places that follow certain criteria unique to this period of pandemic panic, but not yet full lockdown Parisian style:

  • They are not tourist attractions and thus access to them should not be a problem.
  • They are not indoors, so worrying about being enclosed amongst a group of possibly infected people should not be a concern.
  • They are unique and interesting and – I believe – worth the effort of finding.
  • They have been chosen for their historical and political eccentricity and appropriateness to the times we live in.
  • They are downtown or in Vieux Montréal – the true heart of the city.

 

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The point of this Pandemic Path is to remind you of what remains important in these days of panic and uncertainty.

The sites on this promenade all matter in their individual aspects.

They are:

  • Place Norman Bethune
  • Guaranteed Pure Milk
  • The crosses of Dorchester Square
  • Hochelaga
  • The Angel of Budapest
  • The Monkey King of Chinatown
  • The Franco Américain
  • Nelson’s Column
  • The Montréal Tango
  • The Portuguese benches
  • Parc du Portugal
  • The flowers of Rosemont
  • The Twilight Sculpture Garden
  • The Field of Possibilities

 

 

Take a bus to the Metro Station Guy – Concordia – familiar to you because of your studies – and walk to the first stop on our walking tour, Place Norman Bethune.

 

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In the small triangular island at the intersection of rue Guy and Boulevard de Maisonneuve stands the statue of a hero that the majority of Canadians have never heard of.

This doctor, humanist and visionary, Norman Bethune, though an obscure figure in Canada, is a hero in China.

Considering that COVINA-19 was first detected in China, Bethune’s statue seems an appropriate place to begin the tour.

 

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Born in Gravenhurst (north of Toronto), Bethune chose to follow a career in medicine.

 

Above: Bethune Memorial House, Gravenhurst, Ontario

 

At the outbreak of the First World War, Bethune joined the Field Ambulance as a stretcher bearer in 1915, serving on the battlefields of Belgium where he was injured by a mortar shell.

Back in Canada, he finished his medical studies and enrolled in the Royal Marines as a surgeon.

Between the world wars, Bethune lived in Scotland, where he married Frances Penney, and then in the United States, where he became infected with tuberculosis.

 

 

He sought treatment at the Trudeau Sanatorium in Saranac Lake, New York.

At this time, Frances divorced Bethune and returned to her home in Scotland.

It was during his stay in Saranac Lake that he became aware of the inadequate treatment then given to the numerous patients.

 

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Above: Adirondack (formerly Trudeau) Sanitorium, Saranac Lake, New York

 

(I wonder how adequate treatment actually is for those infected by the corona virus….)

 

Later settled in Montréal where he worked at the Royal Victoria Hospital and the Sacré Coeur Hospital, Bethune dedicated eight years of his life to the study of this terrible disease.

During this period (1928 – 1936), Bethune invented or modified no less than twelve surgical instruments (some of which are still in use today) and published a great number of innovative articles on thoracic surgery.

His most famous instrument was the Bethune Rib Shears, which remain in use today.

 

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(Remember you are not a “very stable genius” if others can’t see it for themselves.

Publish or perish.)

 

Bethune became increasingly concerned with the socio-economic aspects of disease.

As a concerned doctor in Montreal during the economic depression years of the 1930s, Bethune frequently sought out the poor and gave them free medical care.

He challenged his professional colleagues and agitated, without success, for the government to make radical reforms of medical care and health services in Canada.

 

Convinced of the relevance of social medicine, Bethune admired the Soviet health system and didn’t hesitate to join the Communist Party in 1935 in order to “make this world a better place“.

 

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Above: Logo of the Communist Party of Canada

 

(This is not suggesting you should become a Communist, but, that being said, we cannot assume that there is nothing at all good about political systems we don’t approve of or understand.

To put it another way:

Even the Devil can quote Scripture.

Which means we cannot, in good conscience, defeat an opposing system without first trying to comprehend it.)

 

Unfortunately, Bethune’s proposals for a universal health service – which Canada now enjoys – received little support from the political elite at the time.

Disappointed, Bethune went elsewhere to try to improve the lives of the less fortunate.

 

First, he went to Spain, which was on the verge of civil war, and set up mobile blood transfusion units.

In rather pragmatic fashion, Bethune gave each donor a bottle of wine!

 

 

(An idea the Red Cross should try?)

 

Returning for a while to Montréal, Bethune set up a Canadian – American mobile unit and then subsequently joined the army of Mao Zedong in China in 1938, when the country was at war against Japanese invaders.

In indescribable conditions and travelling by mule through the mountains, Bethune followed the troops and performed operations, thus saving several thousand lives all the while teaching the rudiments of medicine to hundreds of followers.

In his self-sacrificing way, Bethune cut his finger while operating on a soldier with his bare hands, later succumbing to blood poisoning on 12 November 1939.

 

Above: Statue of Bethune at Wanping Fortress, Beijing

 

Nearly all Chinese citizens know about Bethune, whose story is taught in schools.

So, when Montréal decided to name a square after him in the 1970s, the People’s Republic of China gave the city a statue of the surgeon.

Statues in his honour can be found in cities throughout China.

 

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Dr. Bethune effectively brought modern medicine to rural China and often treated sick villagers as much as wounded soldiers.

His selfless commitment made a profound impression on the Chinese people, especially CPC’s leader, Mao Zedong.

Mao wrote a eulogy to him, which was memorized by generations of Chinese people.

 

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Above: Mao Zedong (1893 – 1976)

 

Bethune is credited for saving millions of Chinese soldiers and civilians during the Second-Sino Japanese War, and is known worldwide as one of the most influential doctors of all time.

 

Bethune had thoughts on the manner in which medicine was practised, and stated:

Medicine, as we are practising it, is a luxury trade.

We are selling bread at the price of jewels.

Let us take the profit, the private economic profit, out of medicine, and purify our profession of rapacious individualism.

Let us say to the people not ‘How much have you got?‘ but ‘How best can we serve you?’.

 

Bethune wrote that wars were motivated by profits, not principles.

 

(An idea worth considering in your political science studies, eh?)

 

Virtually unknown in his homeland during his lifetime, Bethune received international recognition when Chairman Mao Zedong of the People’s Republic of China published his essay entitled In Memory of Norman Bethune, which documented the final months of the doctor’s life in China.

Almost the entire Chinese population knew about the essay which had become required reading in China’s elementary schools during the 1960s.

Grateful of Bethune’s altruistic help to China, the nation’s normal elementary school text book still has the essay today:

Comrade Bethune’s spirit, his utter devotion to others without any thought of self, was shown in his great sense of responsibility in his work and his great warm-heartedness towards all comrades and the people.

Every Communist must learn from him.

We must all learn the spirit of absolute selflessness from him.

With this spirit everyone can be very useful to the people.

A man’s ability may be great or small, but if he has this spirit, he is already noble-minded and pure, a man of moral integrity and above vulgar interests, a man who is of value to the people.

 

Bethune is one of the few Westerners to whom China has dedicated statues, of which many have been erected in his honour throughout the country.

He is buried in the Revolutionary Martyrs’ Cemetery, Shijiazhuang, Hebei Province, China, where his tomb and memorial hall lie opposite the tomb of Dwarkanath Kotnis, an Indian doctor also honoured for his humanitarian contribution to the Chinese.

 

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Norman Bethune University of Medical Sciences in Changchun city, Jilin province, was one of the eleven national medical universities directly subordinated to Ministry of Health of the People’s Republic of China.

The school developed with Bethune Hygiene School, Bethune Medical School, Bethune Medical University, Medical University of North China, First Military Medical University, Medical College of Changchun, Medical University of Jilin, and the Norman Bethune Health Science Center of Jilin University.

He is also commemorated at three institutions in Shijiazhuang – Bethune Military Medical College, Bethune Specialized Medical College and Bethune International Peace Hospital.

 

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Finding the next stop on the tour is simplicity itself.

Look up.

 

At 1025 rue Lucien L’Allier, near the Metro of the same name, you should see a giant pint of milk.

This giant pint of milk remains a symbol of the dairy industry’s presence here in the heart of Montréal.

In the early 19th century, Montréal residents still bought their milk from milkmen who delivered their bottles by cart.

It wasn’t until 1926, after several tragic cases of food poisoning, that a law was passed requiring dairies to pasteurize their milk.

 

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Founded in 1900, Guaranteed Pure Milk was the first dairy plant in the province of Québec.

In 1930, at the construction of his new dairy, owner George Hogg decided to pull a publicity stunt, in part to restore confidence in the dairy products affected by the crisis of previous years.

Rather than building an ordinary water tank for the fire protection system, Hogg had his workers build an enormous bottle of milk that could be seen all round the district.

An icon was born.

Standing nearly 10 metres tall, the riveted steel bottle weighs 6 tonnes, including its base, and can hold up to 250,000 litres of water.

 

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Make your way to the intersection of Dorchester Square and place du Canada to discover a cemetery beneath your feet.

Many Montréalais pass through Dorchester Square every day without even noticing the crosses embedded in the paving stones.

Yet these 58 crosses indicate the site of the former Catholic cemetery of Saint Antoine.

 

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The crosses were designed in 2009, during building work that brought to light new burial sites.

Although some 50 skeletons were exhumed and sent to the Université de Montréal for research purposes, it was decided that the other remains would be left to rest in peace on the spot.

 

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The present Place du Canada and Dorchester Square were built over one of Montréal’s largest cemeteries.

Between 1799 and 1854, 40,000 to 50,000 people, many of whom were victims of cholera epidemics, had been buried in the St. Antoine Cemetery.

 

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From the 1860s, the Nôtre Dame parish site owner began to excavate certain tombs on order to move them to the Nôtre Dame des Neiges Cemetery.

The urban cemetery’s days were numbered.

A few years later, the City of Montréal acquired the site and converted it into a vast green space.

This new park became one of the growing city’s symbolic sites and hosted many events, such as the first Winter Carnival in 1883.

 

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Alongside the main avenue of McGill University Campus, a cairn bearing a plaque commemorates Hochelaga, the settlement usually considered to be the precursor of the city of Montréal.

On 2 October 1535, on his second trip up the St. Lawrence River, Jacques Cartier landed on what would become Montréal Island and visited the fortified town.

 

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According to Cartier, the circular settlement was surrounded by a palisade of long wooden stakes and contained about 50 houses.

Around 2,000 Iroquoians lived in these longhouses, the traditional dwellings of the local settlers who subsisted by cultivation and fishing.

 

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Around 1600, Frenchmen returning to New France remarked that Hochelaga was abandoned.

Disease?

Although Hochelaga’s exact location is unknown, this small grassy area (850 square feet / 79 square metres) on the McGill Campus was designated a National Historic Site in 1920.

The cairn and plaque were erected five years later.

So a simple stone marks the place where Montréal began.

 

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Behind Christ Church Anglican Cathedral, between avenue Union and rue University, is a pretty little shaded square filled with flowers and greenery, hidden from the usual bustle of rue Sainte Catherine.

Since few know it, tourists don’t venture here.

Those who do know it are generally the employees of the numerous nearby offices.

 

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This is where Montréal decided to pay homage to someone who made his mark on the history of humanity:

Raoul Wallenberg, the Angel of Budapest.

 

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Above: Raoul Wallenberg (1912 – 1945)

 

His story is an extraordinary one.

Born near Stockholm in 1912 to a rich family, Wallenberg studied architecture in the United States before becoming a businessman with a love for travel.

In 1944, during the Second World War, he was chosen by the American War Refugee board to organize the rescue programme for the Jews of Budapest.

 

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From July 1944 to January 1945, Raoul Wallenberg helped tens of thousands of Hungarian Jews escape from Nazi-occupied Budapest.

As the head secretary of the Swedish Legation in Budapest, he facilitated the delivery of “passports” (in fact, a simple piece of paper depicting three crowns, the symbol of Sweden) to Jews, who thus took on the status of foreign citizens and were housed in Buildings acquired by Sweden.

 

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Ingenious and methodical, Raoul Wallenberg was an intense negotiator who saved as many as 100,000 people from the hands of the Nazis.

 

 

On 17 January 1945, during the Siege of Budapest by the Red Army, Wallenberg was detained by SMERSH on suspicion of espionage and subsequently disappeared.

He was later reported to have died on 17 July 1947 while imprisoned by the KGB secret police in the Lubyanka, the KGB headquarters and affiliated prison in Moscow.

The motives behind Wallenberg’s arrest and imprisonment by the Soviet government, along with questions surrounding the circumstances of his death and his ties to US intelligence, remain mysterious and are the subject of continued speculation.

 

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Above: Russian (English) : НКО (Народного Комиссариата Обороны (People’s Commissariat of Defense)) Главного управления (Main Department) контрразведки (Counterintelligence) СМЕРШ (SMERSH) – ‘Certification Cover’. USSR, 1943. СМЕРть (Death) Шпионам (Spies)

 

As a result of his successful efforts to rescue Hungarian Jews, Wallenberg has been the subject of numerous humanitarian honours in the decades following his presumed death.

 

In 1981, US Congressman Tom Lantos, one of those saved by Wallenberg, sponsored a bill making Wallenberg an honorary citizen of the United States, the 2nd person ever to receive this honour.

 

Wallenberg is also an honorary citizen of Canada, Hungary, Australia, and Israel.

 

The Angel of Budapest became one of the “Righteous Among the Nations“, an honour created in 1963 by the Yad Vashem Memorial for non-Jews who risked their own lives to help Jews during the Holocaust.

 

 

Other tributes to Wallenberg in Israel include at least five streets named after him.

 

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On Raoul Wallenberg Street in Tel Aviv, a statue identical to one in Budapest was installed in 2002, made by the sculptor Imre Varga.

 

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Wallenberg was nominated twice for the Nobel Peace Prize, in 1948 by more than 50 qualified nominators and in 1949 by a single nominator.

At the time, the prize could be awarded posthumously, but the concept of such awards was controversial.

 

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In Buenos Aires, Argentina, there is a monument in honour of Wallenberg at a park.

 

 

In Melbourne, a small memorial in honour of Wallenberg stands at the Jewish Holocaust Museum and Research Centre.

A monument by the sculptor Karl Duldig dedicated to him is at Kew Junction on the corner of Princess Street and High Street, Kew.

A tree and memorial seat are in Carlisle St at St Kilda Town Hall.

The Australian Centre for Clinical Neuropharmacology in Melbourne adopted the name ‘The Raoul Wallenberg Centre‘ on the occasion of Raoul Wallenberg’s 89th birthday.

In Sydney are a Raoul Wallenberg garden and sculpture in Woollahra, and a statue inside the Jewish Museum of Australia.

Commemorative trees have been planted in front of the federal Parliament and in many other locations.

The Raoul Wallenberg Unit requested clergy around the world to speak about Raoul Wallenberg and his heroic deeds – ‘One person can make a difference’ – from their pulpits over the weekend 3–5 August 2012 which coincided with the date of his 100th birthday, 4 August 2012.

 

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Raoul Wallenberg Reserve in the neighbourhood of Yokine in Perth was dedicated in honour of Raoul Wallenberg.

The small park is located in close proximity to many of Perth’s Jewish institutions including a Jewish Day School, aged care facility, community centre, sports club and orthodox synagogue.

Wallenberg was named Australia’s first honorary citizen in April 2013, during his centenary year.

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Frank Vajda was saved by Wallenberg in 1944 from the pro-Nazi Arrow Cross Party and campaigned for decades for him to be recognised with the award.

A ceremony at Government House, Canberra, to mark the occasion was held on 6 May 2013, and was attended by Governor-General Quentin Bryce, Prime Minister Julia Gillard and Opposition Leader Tony Abbott.

Vajda also attended the ceremony, as did the son of World War II resistance fighter John Farkas, who was the last person known to have seen Wallenberg alive.

George Farkas described the award as “recognition that some people can do unbelievable good in the face of reprehensible evil“.

 

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Above: Frank Vajda

 

In the 22nd district of Vienna a street is named “Raoul Wallenberg Gasse“.

 

Wallenberg was made the first Honorary Citizen of Canada in 1985.

The government declared 17 January, the day he disappeared, as “Raoul Wallenberg Day” in Canada.

Numerous memorials, parks, and monuments honouring Wallenberg can be found across Canada, including the Raoul Wallenberg Memorial in Queen Elizabeth Park in Vancouver, Raoul Wallenberg Corner in Calgary, Raoul Wallenberg Park in Saskatoon, Parc Raoul Wallenberg in Ottawa.

The main entrance to Earl Bales Park in Toronto, Ontario is named Raoul Wallenberg Road.

In 2008, the Tanenbaum Community Hebrew Academy of Toronto added “Wallenberg” to the name of the school, thus spawning the moniker, Tanenbaum CHAT Wallenberg Campus.

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In the centre of Batumi, Georgia, a street is named “Raoul Wallenberg Street“.

 

Streets are named after Wallenberg in Germany.

 

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Budapest named Wallenberg as an honorary citizen in 2003.

Several sites honor him, including Raoul Wallenberg Memorial Park, which commemorates those who saved many of the city’s Jews from deportation to extermination camps, and the building that housed the Swedish Embassy in 1945.

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In July 2012, Hungary paid tribute to Raoul Wallenberg in a ceremony at Budapest’s Holocaust museum, marking 100 years since his birth.

Zoltan Balog, minister for human resources and social affairs, said that “evil must be rejected“.

 

 

A plaque commemorating Wallenberg was unveiled in downtown Warsaw on the occasion of naming a city street after him.

The unveiling ceremony was part of commemorations marking the 73rd anniversary of the start of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising.

 

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A memorial to his name was made in 2013 in Peru’s capital city of Lima.

Taking the form of a park, it is situated on the coast of the San Miguel District.

 

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A memorial to him stands in the courtyard of the Russian Rudomino Library of Foreign Languages in Moscow.

In Saint Petersburg, the Institute of Special Pedagogy and Psychology bears Wallenberg’s name.

 

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In 2001, a memorial was created in Stockholm to honor Wallenberg.

It was unveiled by King Carl XVI Gustaf, at a ceremony attended by then UN Secretary General Kofi Annan and his wife Nane Maria Annan, Wallenberg’s niece.

At the unveiling, King Carl XVI Gustaf said Wallenberg is “a great example to those of us who want to live as fellow humans“.

Kofi Annan praised him as “an inspiration for all of us to act when we can and to have the courage to help those who are suffering and in need of help“.

The memorial’s design has been considered inappropriate by some critics.

 

Above: Part of the controversial Stockholm Monument

 

A memorial to Raoul Wallenberg was erected near the Haga Church (Hagakyrkan) in Gothenburg, Sweden.

It is a 2.45 meter high monument, made partly of graphic concrete and partly of bronze, and was created by Charlotte Gyllenhammar of Stockholm, Sweden.

It was unveiled on 25 May 2007 by UN Secretary General Kofi Annan.

 

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A monument to Raoul Wallenberg by Scottish sculptor Philip Jackson is located at Great Cumberland Place in London’s Marble Arch district, outside the Western Marble Arch Synagogue.

It was unveiled by Queen Elizabeth II in 1997, in the presence of the President of Israel, Ezer Weizman, the Secretary General of the United Nations, Kofi Annan, and survivors of the Holocaust.

 

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A separate monument stands near the Welsh National War Memorial in Cathays Park, Cardiff.

 

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A bronze briefcase monument by Gustav Kraitz with the initials RW is located in the garden of the Beth Shalom Holocaust Centre near Laxton in Nottinghamshire.

 

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The US Congress made Wallenberg an Honorary Citizen of the United States in 1981, the second person to be so honored, after Winston Churchill.

In 1985, the portion of 15th Street, SW in Washington, D.C. on which the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum is located, was renamed Raoul Wallenberg Place by Act of Congress.

 

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In 1997, the United States Postal Service issued a stamp in his honor.

Representative Tom Lantos, one of those saved by Wallenberg’s actions, said:

“It is most appropriate that we honour him with a US stamp.

In this age devoid of heroes, Wallenberg is the archetype of a hero – one who risked his life day in and day out, to save the lives of tens of thousands of people he did not know whose religion he did not share.”

 

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In Manhattan, a monument honoring him was installed on Raoul Wallenberg Walk, named in his honor, across from the headquarters of the United Nations.

The Swedish Consulate commissioned the piece, Raoul Wallenberg Memorial, New York, created by Swedish sculptor Gustav Kraitz and painter Ulla Kraitz (1998).

The sculpture, Hope, is a replica of Wallenberg’s briefcase, a sphere, five pillars of black granite, and paving stones (setts) which were formerly used on the streets of the Budapest ghetto.

 

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There is also Wallenberg Forest in Riverdale, Bronx, established in 1990 and named Wallenberg Forest in 1996.

 

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Another memorial stands in front of the Art and Architecture building at the University of Michigan, where he received his architecture degree in 1935.

 

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Places named after Wallenberg include Raoul Wallenberg Traditional High School in San Francisco, the PS 194 Raoul Wallenberg School in Brooklyn, New York, Raoul Wallenberg Avenue in Trenton, New Jersey, Raoul Wallenberg Drive in Hauppauge, New York and Raoul Wallenberg Boulevard in Charleston, South Carolina.

Since 2005, the International Raoul Wallenberg Foundation has campaigned to establish 5 October as Raoul Wallenberg Day throughout the United States, as this was the day Wallenberg was awarded honourary US citizenship.

 

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By 2010, Raoul Wallenberg Day was being observed by the states of Colorado, Connecticut, Illinois, Iowa, Maine, Maryland, Michigan, Nebraska, Nevada, New Jersey, New Mexico, West Virginia, and Wyoming.

 

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Wallenberg was posthumously awarded the Train Foundation’s Civil Courage Prize, which recognizes “extraordinary heroes of conscience“.

On 26 July 2012, Wallenberg was posthumously awarded a Congressional Gold Medal by the United States Congress “in recognition of his achievements and heroic actions during the Holocaust”.

 

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In the science fiction series Star Trek: Picard, the Wallenberg-class refugee transport starships are named for Wallenberg.

 

In gold letters, the words Star Trek are written above the word Picard, with the A in Picard replaced by the Starfleet symbol reflecting a bright light.

 

Raoul Wallenberg Square is not only a perfect spot take a break, but an inspiration and reminder of contemporary history.

This memorial bust of Wallenberg and a caged metal box, styled as a barbed-wire gate, stand beside each other.

 

 

 

At the corner of rue Saint Urbain and rue de la Gauchetière, the street scupture Le Roi Singe de Chinatown (the Monkey King of Chinatown) is composed of seven five-metre high concrete panels.

 

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The work of artist Pang Tin Neon, illustrates the story of the Monkey King who, according to Chinese legend, became the king of the animals thanks to his shrewd nature.

At the bottom of the composition, the king on horseback is followed by his valet who carries the luggage.

In the centre, a pig on a cloud wears farmer’s clothes and holds a rake.

 

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(When pigs fly, it’s an animal farm.)

 

Above, on another cloud, a monkey wearing a martial arts uniform holds a staff while squatting like a pelican.

 

 

(Flying monkeys Frank Baum would have loved?)

 

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In the upper left-hand corner, a palace rides on yet another cloud.

 

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(Cloud City, Star Wars style?)

 

Across the street, a bas-relief by Andrew Lui depicts musicians marching up to Heaven.

 

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(“Oh, when those saints go marchin’ in,

Oh, when those saints go marchin’ in

Lord, I want to be in that number

When those saints go marchin’ in.”)

 

 

Although many Chinese arrived in Canada in the mid-19th century to work on the railroad in the West, it wasn’t until 1902 that this small neighbourhood in the city centre, once called “Little Dublin“, became Montréal’s Chinatown.

 

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Chinatown in Montréal (Le quartier chinois de Montréal) is located in the area of de la Gauchetière Street in Montreal.

The neighbourhood contains many Asian restaurants, food markets, and convenience stores as well being home to many of Montreal’s East Asian community centres, such as the Montreal Chinese Hospital and the Montreal Chinese Community and Cultural Center.

 

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The first Chinese immigrants to Montreal arrived in March 1877.

The first Chinese that created Montreal’s Chinatown belonged to the Chan, Hom (Tam), Lee and Wong clan groups.

Many Taishan Chinese settled (all following the Leung Family) in the area because they worked for the railways and it was convenient for these occupations.

Among the first Chinese residents was Jos Song Long who opened a laundromat on Craig Street (today Saint Antoine Street).

Most Chinese residents were primarily Cantonese-speaking and had moved from British Columbia and southern China to what had been a primarily residential area.

Initially, many Chinese Montrealers ran laundromats, as owning their own businesses allowed them to avoid the pay discrimination that they had faced in British Columbia.

Businesses such as laundromats required geographic proximity to its customers, and as a result, this type of business became quite common in Montréal, with Chinatown being largely commercially oriented.

 

 

In 1902, the area officially became known as “Chinatown“, and specifically referred to several blocks centered on De La Gauchetière Street between Chenneville and Clark Streets.

On these streets, many Chinese-owned businesses opened, notably restaurants and specialty grocers.

The neighbourhood was strategically located with modest-sized lots, affordable rents and close proximity to Saint-Laurent Boulevard, which attracted non-Chinese clients.

Over the years, Hong Kong Chinese and ethnic Chinese refugees from Vietnam also set up shops and restaurants in the area.

 

The paifang on Saint Laurent Boulevard

 

Chinatown was the filming location of the 2008 film release Punisher: War Zone.

 

Official graphic poster of the film, shows the Punisher in his tradional vest and logo, holds two guns and looks toward the viewer, with the film's title and credits below him.

 

 

Donald Trump is set to further infuriate the Chinese government after continuing to refer to the corona virus as ‘the Chinese virus.’

The President of the United States used the term three times on Wednesday morning, initially tweeting:

“For the people that are now out of work because of the important and necessary containment policies, for instance the shutting down of hotels, bars and restaurants, money will soon be coming to you.

The onslaught of the Chinese virus is not your fault!

Will be stronger than ever!”

 

Trump, finally, takes the coronavirus emergency seriously

 

Shortly afterwards, Trump send a second tweet announcing another press conference with ‘very important news’ from the US Food and Drug Administration about ‘the Chinese virus.’

 

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And shortly after that, Trump issued a third tweet defending his handling of the crisis, writing:

I always treated the Chinese virus very seriously, and have done a very good job from the beginning, including my very early decision to close the “borders” from China – against the wishes of almost all.

Many lives were saved.

The Fake News new narrative is disgraceful and false!

 

Since the beginning of the outbreak, President Trump and high-ranking administration officials have sought to pinpoint blame for the spread of the virus on China.

 

Trump used the phrase despite the WHO officially naming the disease COVINA – 19.

WHO officials warned that continued use of previous names, such as Chinese virus and Wuhan flu – named after the city where the virus first emerged – risked stigmatizing Chinese people.

 

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Asked about his repeated use of the term at a press conference on Tuesday, Trump insisted he was entitled to do so – and hit out at Chinese government officials for trying to suggest that the virus had been started by the US military.

He said:

“I didn’t appreciate the fact that China was saying that our military gave it to them.  Our military did not give it to anybody.

China was putting out information, which was false, that our military gave this to them. 

That was false. 

It did come from China.

I think it is an accurate term.”

 

Above: Wuhan Bell Tower

 

Trump’s initial use of “Chinese virus” prompted Chinese Ministry of Foreign Affairs spokesman Geng Shuang to say:

“We express strong indignation and resolute opposition to this.

The United States should mind its own business first, and then make constructive contributions to the international counter-epidemic collaboration and the maintenance of global public health security.”

 

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Above: Geng Shuang

 

Morgan, don’t be a Donald!

 

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Canadians who identify themselves as being of Chinese ethnic origin make up about 5% of the Canadian population, or about 1.77 million people, according to the 2016 census.

The Chinese Canadian community is the largest ethnic group of Asian Canadians, consisting approximately 40% of the Asian Canadian population.

Chinese railway workers made up the labour force for construction of two one-hundred mile sections of the Canadian Pacific Railway from the Pacific to Craigellachie in the Eagle Pass in British Columbia.

The railway as a whole consisted of 28 such sections, 93% of which were constructed by workers of European origin.

 

 

When British Columbia agreed to join Confederation in 1871, one of the conditions was that the Dominion government build a railway linking BC with eastern Canada within 10 years.

British Columbia politicians and their electorate agitated for an immigration program from the British Isles to provide this railway labour, but Prime Minister Sir John A. Macdonald, betraying the wishes of his constituency, Victoria, by insisting the project cut costs by employing Chinese to build the railway, and summarized the situation this way to Parliament in 1882:

“It is simply a question of alternatives:

Either you must have this labour or you can’t have the railway.”

 

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Above: Prime Minister Sir John A. Macdonald (1815 – 1891)

 

(British Columbia politicians had wanted a settlement-immigration plan for workers from the British Isles, but Canadian politicians and investors said it would be too expensive).

 

Chinese communities in Canada in the 19th and well into the 20th centuries were organized around the traditional kinship systems linking people belonging to the same clans together.

As not everyone in the Chinese communities necessarily belonged to the same clans, “voluntary” associations that functioned in many ways like guilds that provided social welfare, community events and a forum for politics became very important in Chinese-Canadian communities.

Linking together all of the voluntary associations were Benevolent Associations that in effect ran the various Chinatowns in Canada, mediating disputes within the communities and providing for leaders who negotiated with Canadian politicians.

As many Chinese immigrants knew little or no English, and most white Canadians did not welcome them, the Chinatowns tended to be cut off from the wider Canadian communities, functioning as “islands“.

 

Above: The Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden in Vancouver’s Chinatown

 

The Canadian media in the late 19th and early 20th centuries depicted the Chinatowns in lucid and sensationalist terms as centers of “filth” – using the very poverty of the Chinese against them, Canadian newspapers frequently claimed that the Chinese immigrants were an innately dirty people who carried infectious diseases and were prone to criminality.

Reflecting the popularity of “Yellow Peril” stereotypes, the media blamed Chinese immigrants for all the crime in Canada, depicting the Chinese as luring innocent white Canadians into gambling, prostitution and drug addiction.

 

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Many workers from Guangdong Province (mainly Taishanese people and Pearl River Delta peoples) arrived to help build the Canadian Pacific Railway in the 19th century as did Chinese veterans of the gold rushes.

These workers accepted the terms offered by the Chinese labour contractors who were engaged by the railway construction company to hire them—low pay, long hours, lower wages than non-Chinese workers and dangerous working conditions, in order to support their families that stayed in China.

Their willingness to endure hardship for low wages enraged fellow non-Chinese workers who thought they were unnecessarily complicating the labour market situations.

 

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Most of the Chinese immigrants in the 19th century spoke Cantonese and their term for Canada was Gum San (golden mountain).

The name Gum San, which concerned a supposed gigantic mountain made of pure gold located somewhere in the Rockies, was not taken literally, but instead was a metaphor for the hopes of Chinese immigrants for greater wealth in Canada.

Almost all of the Chinese immigrants in the 19th century were young men, with women staying behind in China with the hope of marrying a “Gold mountain guest” as those who made money in Canada usually returned to China.

 

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Unable to marry white women, many Chinese men in Canada married First Nations women as the Indian peoples were more willingly to accept them.

From the passage of the Chinese Immigration Act in 1885, the Canadian government began to charge a substantial head tax for each Chinese person trying to immigrate to Canada.

The Chinese were the only ethnic group that had to pay such a tax.

 

 

Owing to the fear of the Yellow Peril, in 1895 the government of Mackenzie Bowell passed an act forbidding any Asian-Canadian from voting or holding office.

 

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Above: Prime Minister Mackenzie Bowell (1823 – 1917)

 

 

In 1902, the Liberal Prime Minister Sir Wilfrid Laurier appointed a Royal Commission on Chinese and Japanese Immigration, whose report stated that the Asians were “unfit for full citizenship, obnoxious to a free community and dangerous to the state.”

Following the Royal Commission’s report, Parliament voted to increase the Chinese head tax to $500 dollars, which temporarily caused Chinese immigration to Canada to stop.

However, those Chinese wishing to go to Canada began to save up money to pay the head tax, which led to agitation, especially in British Columbia for the Dominion Government to ban Asian immigration.

 

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Above: Prime Minister Sir Wilfred Laurier (1841 – 1919)

 

From 7 to 9 September 1907, an anti-Asian pogrom took place in Vancouver.

The Asiatic Exclusion League organized attacks against homes and businesses owned by Chinese, Japanese, Korean and Indian immigrants under the slogan “White Canada Forever!“.

 

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Though no one was killed, much property damage was done and numerous Asian-Canadians were beaten up.

The 1907 pogrom was merely the most dramatic expression of the continuous agitation in Canada, especially in western Canada and among the working class, for the total exclusion of Asian immigration to Canada.

 

Above: Boarded windows and storefronts on Pender Street in Vancouver’s Chinatown after the September 1907 riots

 

In 1922, the feminist Emily Murphy published her best-selling book The Black Candle blaming Chinese and black immigrants for allegedly causing the problems of drug addiction among white Canadians.

 

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Above: Emily Murphy (1868 – 1933)

 

In 1923, the federal Liberal government of William Lyon Mackenzie King banned Chinese immigration with the passage of the Chinese Immigration Act of 1923, although numerous exemptions for businessmen, clergy, students and others did not end immigration entirely.

With this act, the Chinese received similar legal treatment to blacks before them who Canada also had specifically excluded from immigration on the basis of race.

 

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Above: Prime Minister William Lyon Mackenzie King (1874 – 1950)

 

(This was formalised in 1911 by Prime Minister Sir Wilfrid Laurier who in Sub-section (c) of Section 38 of the Immigration Act called blacks “unsuitable” for Canada.)

 

During the next 25 years, more and more laws against the Chinese were passed.

Most jobs were closed to Chinese men and women.

Many Chinese opened their own restaurants and laundry businesses.

In British Columbia, Saskatchewan and Ontario, Chinese employers were not allowed to hire white females, so most Chinese businesses became Chinese-only.

 

Above: Chinese Canadians in Toronto’s High Park, 1919

 

Ernest Chewant Mark, an immigrant who arrived in Canada in 1908, emerged as one of the leading critics of the 1923 Exclusion Act, and worked closely with Senator William Proudfoot, a Presbyterian minister, into seeking to pressure the government to repeal the act.

 

Some of those Chinese Canadian workers settled in Canada after the railway was constructed.

Most could not bring the rest of their families, including immediate relatives, due to government restrictions and enormous processing fees.

They established Chinatowns and societies in undesirable sections of the cities, such as Dupont Street (now East Pender) in Vancouver, which had been the focus of the early city’s red light district until Chinese merchants took over the area from the 1890s onwards.

 

Above: Millennium Gate on Pender Street in Vancouver’s Chinatown

 

During the Great Depression, life was even tougher for the Chinese than it was for other Canadians.

 

In Alberta, for example, Chinese Canadians received relief payments of less than half the amount paid to other Canadians.

And because The Chinese Exclusion Act prohibited any additional immigration from China, the Chinese men who had arrived earlier had to face these hardships alone, without the companionship of their wives and children.

Census data from 1931 shows that there were 1,240 men to every 100 women in Chinese-Canadian communities.

 

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To protest the Chinese Exclusion Act, Chinese Canadians closed their businesses and boycotted Dominion Day celebrations every 1 July, which became known as “Humiliation Day” by Chinese Canadians.

 

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The film-maker Melinda Friedman stated about her interviews with Chinese-Canadian veterans of World War II:

“The thing that was the most shocking to me was hearing from the veterans describe what life was like in Vancouver as late as 1940, with the Ku Klux Klan living in Vancouver who were targeting, quite often, the Chinese community.”

 

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In 1937, when Japan attacked China, the government of Chiang Kai-shek asked for the overseas Chinese communities to support the homeland.

From 1937 onward, the Chinese Canadian community regularly organized fund-raising events to raise money for China.

By 1945, the Chinese-Canadians had contributed $5 million Canadian dollars to China.

 

Following the Xi’an Incident of December 1936, a “United Front” bringing together the Chinese Communist Party and the Kuomintang had been formed to resist Japanese aggression, which was soon put to the test when Japan invaded China in July 1937.

Within the Chinese-Canadian communities, a “United Front” atmosphere prevailed from the summer of 1937 on as various community leaders put aside their differences to focus on supporting China.

Starting in 1937, a boycott was organized of Japanese goods, and Canadian businesses that sold war materials to Japan were subject of demonstrations.

One of the main slogans used at the demonstrations was “Don’t Kill Babies“, a reference to the Imperial Japanese Army’s habit of using Chinese infants for “bayonet practice“.

 

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The Second World War became the turning point in history of Chinese-Canadians.

To show support for the war, fund-raising events were held from September 1939 to raise money for the Canadian war effort, and by 1945, Chinese-Canadians had purchased some $10 million worth of Victory Bonds.

The Chinese community of Victoria was praised in a parliamentary resolution for being especially active in holding events to encourage people to buy Victory Bonds.

 

Above: Chinese-Canadian soldiers from Vancouver serving in the Second World War

 

In December 1941, Canada declared war on Japan, and from time onward, China was an ally, which helped to change white Canadian views.

 

The Afro-American newspaper The Pittsburgh Courier called for the “double victory” or Double V campaign campaign in a 1942 editorial, urging black Americans to work for victory over fascism abroad and racism at home.

Through originally intended for black Americans, the slogan of double victory was taken up by Asian-American groups as well.

The same slogan of “double victory” came to be embraced by Chinese Canadians.

 

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Despite not being allowed to vote or hold office, about 600 Chinese Canadians enlisted as “active” members to fight overseas (until late 1944 all Canadians serving abroad were volunteers).

The Prime Minister, William Lyon Mackenzie King, did not want Chinese Canadians to serve in the military as he knew that veterans would demand the right to vote just as Chinese Canadian veterans had done after World War I, but strong pressure from the British Special Operations Executive, which needed Asians loyal to the Crown to work as agents, forced his hand.

Unlike in the First World War, where about 300 Chinese Canadians had served in the Canadian Expeditionary Force, this time Chinese Canadians serving in the Canadian military were given officers’ commissions.

 

Above: World War II veteran George Chow

 

All three services were reluctant to have Chinese Canadians given officers’ commissions as having Asian men serving as officers giving orders to white men challenged the racial hierarchy.

However, all those serving as airmen in the Royal Canadian Air Force (RCAF) were officers, and once Chinese-Canadian airmen received officers’ commissions, both the Army and the Navy were forced to follow suit.

The RCAF was the service most open to Chinese Canadians because of the heavy losses taken in the bombing offensive against Germany.

For the RCAF, a 5% loss ratio was considered crippling and between 5 March and 24 June 1943, the 6th Group of the RCAF lost 100 bombers in air raids over Germany, suffering a 7% loss ratio.

 

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Above: Royal Canadian Air Force badge

 

Altogether, 9,980 Canadians were killed in bombing raids against German cities between 1940 and 1945, making the strategical bombing offensive one of the most costly operations for Canada in World War II.

 

In 1943, William Lore was commissioned as a Lieutenant-Commander in the Royal Canadian Navy, becoming the first person of Chinese descent to be given an officer’s commission in any of the Commonwealth navies.

Lore was the first Allied officer to land in Hong Kong on 30 August 1945 and it was he who announced to the surviving Canadian POWs, who had been held in barbaric conditions by the Japanese since surrendering on Christmas Day in 1941, being reduced down to “human skeletons”, that they were now free men.

 

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Above: William Lore (1909 – 2012)

 

Kam Hem Douglas Sam of the Royal Canadian Air Force, who had been serving on a Halifax bomber was shot down over France on 28 June 1944, and joined the French resistance, was awarded the Croix de Guerre from France after the war for his work with the Resistance.

Sam, who came from Victoria and could remember some French from high school, was able to pass himself off as a Vietnamese student in Reims.

Sam first served with as a liaison with the SOE to organize landings of arms to the resistance from Britain.

Sam later fought with the Resistance, ambushing German troops on their way to Normandy.

 

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Above: Douglas Sam

 

Flying Officer Quan Jil Louie of the RCAF was killed in early 1945 when his bomber was shot down over Germany.

As Louie came from one of the more wealthier families of Vancouver’s Chinatown, his death in action attracted much attention in Vancouver, and with it the commentary he was not allowed to vote or hold office.

 

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Above: Quan Jil Louie (1922 – 1945)

 

A number of Chinese Canadians were recruited by the British Special Operations Executive (SOE) to serve in Japanese-occupied regions of China and south-east Asia.

About 150 Chinese Canadians served with the SOE Force 136 behind Japanese lines in Burma.

 

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Douglas Jung, who later become the first Chinese Canadian MP, served as a SOE agent in Japanese-occupied Malaya in 1944 – 1945, which was highly dangerous work as the Kenpeitai, the much feared Japanese military police, would give no mercy to any Allied agent whom they captured.

 

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Above: Douglas Jung

 

Those serving with the Force 136 were given cyanide pills to take if faced with capture by the Japanese as it was known that any SOE agent captured by the Japanese would be tortured and killed.

 

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Another Chinese Canadian, Bill Chong, served with the British Army Aid Group in Hong Kong and southern China, smuggling out POWs to “Free China” (i.e. not occupied by the Japanese) and delivering aid to resistance groups.

 

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Above: Bill Chong (Agent 50)

 

The willingness of Chinese Canadians to fight and if necessary die for Canada in the war changed public perceptions, and for the first time newspapers began to call for the repeal of the 1895 law which forbade all Asian-Canadians from voting or holding offices.

 

The Canadian historian Brereton Greenhouse wrote of the efforts of the men of Force 136:

Several of them were decorated for their actions, and their service was a major factor in influencing the Canadian government to grant Chinese and Japanese-Canadians full rights as Canadian citizens several years later“.

 

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Frank Wong of Vancouver who served with the Royal Canadian Electrical and Mechanical Engineers in northwest Europe in 1944 – 1945 recalled that his service with the Army was the first time he had been treated as an equal, stating:

“They treated me just like an equal.

You have your uniform, you’re in it together.

You eat together and you sleep together.”.

Like other Chinese-Canadian veterans, Wong argued for equality of treatment, asking why he should be treated as a second-class citizen despite his war services.

Wong stated his reasons for enlisting were:

“I decided maybe if I joined the armed forces, after the war they would give me the right to vote”.

 

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Above: Frank Wong

 

Peggy Lee of Toronto by contrast stated her reasons for enlisting in 1942 with the Women’s Ambulance Corps was to “do my bit” for Canada.

 

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Above: Peggy Lee

 

Roy Mah who served with the SOE behind Japanese lines in Burma stated:

“We thought that serving in the armed forces would be an opportunity for us to prove to the general public that we are loyal Canadians, that in time of need, they would see that we have no hesitation to don the King’s uniform and go overseas to fight for our country, fight to preserve democracy.”

 

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Above: Roy Mah

 

The Canadian historian Henry Yu stated about the efforts of Chinese Canadian veterans:

“They had to accept that they had fought this war—a good war in everyone’s estimation—and they were still coming back to places built around white supremacy.

So for some of them, they began vocally to argue:

Why can’t we vote still?”

 

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Moreover, the völkisch ideology of Nazi Germany, which was the most extreme form of racism widely held throughout the West, was used by Chinese Canadian groups to argue that if the Third Reich was evil, and if that was Canada was at war with Germany for that reason, then why did so many white Canadians hold to notions of white supremacy?

 

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Racism did not end in Canada with the Second World War, but starting during the war and afterwards, the ideas about white supremacy became gradually discredited as the Third Reich had made racism unfashionable.

 

A sign of changing racial attitudes was that George Chow of Vancouver who served with the 16th Light Anti-Aircraft Battery of the Canadian Army in northwest Europe married an Englishwoman named Mabel Rose while he was stationed in Britain.

Before the war, interracial marriage was considered to be abomination as various experts held that miscegenation was dangerous.

 

Catherine Clement, the curator of Chinese Canadian Military Museum in Vancouver stated:

“It’s called a ‘double victory’ because they not only helped Canada win the war, but they also helped propel the civil rights movement for Chinese Canadians.”

 

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Above: Chinese Canadian Military Museum, Vancouver

 

Canada was slow to lift the restrictions against Chinese Canadians and grant them full rights as Canadian citizens.

Because Canada signed the United Nations Charter of Human Rights at the conclusion of the Second World War, the Canadian government had to repeal the Chinese Exclusion Act, which contravened the UN Charter.

 

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The same year, 1947, Chinese-Canadians were finally granted the right to vote in federal elections.

 

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Prime Minister William Lyon Mackenzie King was opposed to granting the franchise to Chinese Canadians, but Chinese Canadian veterans led a coalition of churches, unions, civic groups and veterans’ associations into pressuring the King government to end the exclusion of Chinese Canadians from the franchise.

Friedman stated about Chinese Canadian enfranchisement:

“Canada has this great spot on the world stage—as just, fair and level-headed country—but the reason it is that way is because Chinese residents forced that issue and made it more just.”

 

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One Second World War veteran, Ronald Lee, remembered when he learned that Chinese-Canadians could now vote together with repeal of the Exclusion Act:

“Down in Chinatown, we celebrated because we were Canadians!

We were able to bring our families from China.

It was quite the jubilation.”

 

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Above: Ronald Lee

 

Arguing that it was unjust to discriminate against veterans, professions such as the law, medicine and engineering were opened for Chinese Canadians for the first time after 1945.

However, it took another 20 years, until the points system was adopted for selecting immigrants, for the Chinese to begin to be admitted under the same criteria as any other applicants.

 

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In the 1957 election, the Second World War veteran Douglas Jung was elected as a Progressive Conservative for the riding of Vancouver Centre, becoming the first Chinese-Canadian elected to the House of Commons.

Jung’s election, which proved that white voters would vote for a Chinese Canadian, marked the beginning of a trend where Chinese-Canadians cease to depend upon the Benevolent Associations to negotiate with the politicians and instead Chinese Canadians became politically active themselves.

 

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Above: Parliament Hill, Ottawa

 

After many years of organized calls for an official Canadian government public apology and redress to the historic head tax, the minority Conservative government of Stephen Harper announced, as part of their pre-election campaign, an official apology.

On 22 June 2006, Prime Minister Stephen Harper delivered a message of redress in the House of Commons, calling it a “grave injustice“.

 

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Above: Prime Minister Stephen Harper

 

Some educated Chinese arrived in Canada during the war as refugees.

Since the mid-20th century, most new Chinese Canadians come from university-educated families, who of still consider quality education an essential value.

These newcomers are a major part of the “brain gain“, the inverse of the infamous “brain drain“, i.e., the occurrence of many Canadians leaving to the United States, of which Chinese have also been a part.

 

Above. Chinese Cultural Centre, Calgary, Alberta

 

From 1947 to the early 1970s, Chinese immigrants to Canada came mostly from Hong Kong, Taiwan or Southeast Asia.

Chinese from the mainland who were eligible in the family reunification program had to visit the Canadian High Commission in Hong Kong, since Canada and the PRC did not have diplomatic relations until 1970.

 

Above: Embassy of China, Ottawa

 

From the late 1980s, an influx of Taiwanese people immigrated to Canada forming a group of Taiwanese Canadians.

There was a significant influx of wealthy Chinese entrepreneurs from Hong Kong in the early and mid-1990s before the handover of Hong Kong to the People’s Republic of China (PRC).

Canada was a preferred location, in part because investment visas were significantly easier to obtain than visas to the United States.

Vancouver, Richmond and Toronto were the major destinations of these Chinese.

During those years, immigrants from Hong Kong alone made up to 46% of all Chinese immigrants to Canada.

 

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After 1997, a significant portion of Chinese immigrants chose to move back to Hong Kong, some of a more permanent nature, after the dust of the handover was settled and fears of a “Communist takeover” turned out to be unnecessary.

 

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Above: Hong Kong

 

Starting in the late 20th century, Chinese Canadians have become active in the cultural scene in Canada, with the writers such Larissa Lai, Evelyn Lau,  Denise Chong, Wayson Choy, Paul Yee, Jim Wong-Chu and Vincent Lam all winning acclaim.

In the world of film-making, Christina Wong, William Dere, Colleen Leung, Richard Fung, Dora Nipp, Tony Chan, Yung Chang Julia Kwan, Karin Lee, Mina Shum, Michelle Wong, Paul Wong and Keith Lock have worked as directors and/or as script writers.

 

The Confucian tradition emphasizing hard work, scholarship, self-discipline and learning has meant the Chinese-Canadians families have strongly aspired for higher education and the 2001 census reported that over a quarter of Chinese-Canadians had a university degree.

 

Above: Temple of Confucius of Jiangyin, Wuxi, Jiangsu, China

This is a wénmiào, a temple where Confucius is worshipped as Wéndì, “God of Culture

 

As it was the Liberal government of Lester Pearson that liberalized the immigration system in 1967, Chinese Canadians tended to vote for the Liberals in the late 20th and early 21st centuries.

 

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Above: Prime Minister Lester Pearson (1897 – 1972)

 

In 1993, Raymond Chan become the first Chinese Canadian cabinet minister.

 

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Above: Raymond Chan

 

In 1999 Adrienne Clarkson became the first Chinese Canadian Governor-General.

 

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Above: Governor General Adrienne Clarkson

 

According to the Canadian Ethnic Diversity Survey conducted in 2002 show that 76% of Canadians of Chinese origin said they had a strong sense of belonging to Canada.

At the same time, 58% said that they had a strong sense of belonging to their ethnic or cultural group.

 

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Canadians of Chinese origin are also active in Canadian society.

During the same year, 64% of Chinese Canadians who were eligible to vote reported doing so in the 2000 federal election, while 60% said they voted in the 1996 provincial election.

At the same time, about 35% reported that they had participated in an organization such as a sports team or community association in the 12 months preceding the survey.

 

Concurrently, though, over one in three over (34%) Canadians of Chinese origin reported that they had experienced discrimination, prejudice, or unfair treatment based on their ethnicity, race, religion, language or accent in the past five years, or since they came to Canada.

A majority of those who had experienced discrimination said that they felt it was based on their race or skin colour, while 42% said that the discrimination took place at work or when applying for a job or promotion.

 

The majority of Canadian-born Chinese during the 1970s and 1980s were descended from immigrants of Hong Kong and Southern China, and more recently from mainland Chinese immigrants since the 1990s.

 

Land controlled by the People's Republic of China shown in dark green; land claimed but not controlled shown in light green.

 

Canadians of Chinese origin born in Canada who have mostly assimilated into Canadian culture mainly self-identify as solely Canadian, while others (particularly Chinese born overseas who immigrated to Canada during their late stages of their lives) primarily self-identify as a mixture of the being both Chinese and Canadian.

In Canada, strong feelings of ethnic heritage is bolstered by the clustering of immigrant communities in large urban centres as many Canadians of Chinese extraction, especially new immigrants have a proclivity to associate nearly exclusively with their ethnic compatriots due to unfamiliarity with a new culture.

 

Nonetheless, many Canadians of Chinese origin who have assimilated into Canadian society are more open and have chosen to seek associates outside the Chinese community, toward more multicultural groups of friends and associates from a mosaic of different ethnic and ancestral backgrounds due to Canada’s strong emphasis on diversity and multiculturalism.

Much of the community take on both old and new social and cultural traditions and values passed on from generation to generation.

 

Above: Cham Shan Temple in Niagara Falls, Ontario

 

Culturally, many Canadians of Chinese background who were born in China and immigrated to Canada in their late childhood years are brought up with a more Confucianist-style upbringing with families emphasizing respect for elders, academic achievement, kinship, and taking care of the parents when they’re old.

Canadians of Chinese origin, particularly the second generation and beyond, have more liberal parenting beliefs, are raised with a more Western style upbringing and embrace more modern Western and Canadian values and traditions such as environmental sustainability and stewardship of the earth, individualism, humanitarianism, equality, fairness, freedom, rule of law, commitment to social justice and respecting cultural differences as well as respect for all individuals in society.

 

Above: Cham Shan Temple, Markham, Ontario (north of Toronto)

 

Morgan, don’t be a Donald.

 

Don’t view the Chinese, don’t view anyone, whether in Canada or abroad, as any different than yourself in terms of their humanity.

 

All human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights.

 

I am fairly confident that I need not worry about this.

 

 

Walk down rue Saint Denis to the Franco Américain building at 1242 rue Saint Denis.

 

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Although passers-by sometimes notice the sculptural group over the entrance to this building, few recognize that the head behind it on the left is that of a famous personality.

Indeed, it is Louis Joseph Papineau, hero of the Patriots Rebellion.

 

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Louis-Joseph Papineau (1786 – 1871), born in Montréal, was a politician, lawyer, and the landlord of the seigneurie de la Petite-Nation.

He was the leader of the reformist Patriote movement before the Lower Canada (Québec) Rebellion of 1837 – 1838.

In 1826, he was chosen leader of the Patriotes, a reformed and more radical Parti Canadien.

 

He was the most recent politician in Canada

Above: Louis Joseph Papineau

 

In 1831, he sponsored a law which granted full equivalent political rights to Jews, 27 years before anywhere else in the British Empire.

The events that led to Jews receiving full citizenship rights in Lower Canada in advance of other nations or territories in the British Dominion were due to the involvement of one Ezekiel Hart, a Jew who had proved his dedication to the burgeoning Canadian identity by raising money to support troops in Lower Canada to help in defence against United States invasion from the south.

 

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Above: Ezekiel Hart (1770 – 1843)

 

Louis-Joseph was part of the committee that wrote the Ninety-Two Resolutions passed by the Legislative Assembly on 21 February 1834.

The resolutions called for an elected Legislative Council and an Executive Council responsible before the house of the people’s representatives.

 

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The resolutions included, among other things, demands for an elected Legislative Council and an Executive Council responsible before the house of representatives.

Under the Constitutional Act of 1791, the government of Lower Canada was given an elected legislative assembly, but members of the upper houses were appointed by the Governor of the colony.

In the resolutions, the elected representatives once again reiterated their loyalty to the British Crown, but expressed frustration that the government of London had been unwilling to correct the injustices caused by the past governments of the colony.

Papineau’s resolutions were ignored for almost three years.

 

Meanwhile, the Legislative Assembly did all it could to oppose the un-elected upper houses while avoiding outright rebellion.

 

Bonsecours Market, as seen from the Old Port of Montreal

Above: Lower Canada Legislative Assembly (today’s Bonsecours Market), Montréal

 

British Colonial Secretary Lord John Russell eventually responded to them by issuing ten resolutions of his own (the Russell Resolutions).

All of the Legislative Assembly’s demands were rejected.

The ten resolutions reached Canada in 1837 and many of Papineau’s reformists began to agitate for a rebellion.

 

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Above: John Russell (1792 – 1878)

 

Papineau continued to push for reform.

He petitioned the British government, but in March 1837, the government of Lord Melbourne rejected all of Papineau’s requests.

 

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Above: Lord Melbourne (1779 – 1848)

 

After the announce of the Russel Resolutions, the Patriots at the Assembly decided to use their newspapers to organize popular gatherings to inform the population about the government actions.

For example, they encouraged the population to boycott the British products and to import illegal products from the United States.

 

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The gatherings took place all around Lower Canada and thousands of people participated.

Papineau attended to most of the gatherings during the summer of 1837 to make sure that people would pressure the government only by political measures, such as the boycott of the British products.

 

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Governor Gosford tried to forbid those gatherings, but even the people that were supposed to be loyal to him participated in the gatherings.

At the end of the summer, many of Gosford’s local representatives quit to show support to the Patriots.

Gosford hired loyal people and tried to gain the Patriots’ trust by choosing seven French-Canadian members at the Legislative Assembly.

 

Above: Lord Gosford (1776 – 1849)

 

In September and October 1837, a group of Patriots who were more radical tried to intimidate the British government by going out into the street and breaking things around the houses of certain loyal people.

At the end of October, the largest of the Patriots’ gatherings took place in Saint-Charles and was led by Wolfred Nelson, an Anglophone.

 

Above: Patriote flag

 

(Separatists and Québec nationalists conveniently forget Nelson, for an Anglophone leading Québec towards dignity and self-reliance makes a separatist uncomfortable.)

 

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Above: Wolfred Nelson (1791 – 1863)

 

It lasted for two days and formed La Confédération des Six-Comtés.

 

Above: Papineau giving a political speech for the “Assemblée des six-comtés“.

 

Papineau organized protests and assemblies and eventually approved formation of the paramilitary Société des Fils de la Liberté during the assemblée des six-comtés.

In the last speech by Papineau before the armed conflict, he said that it is not the time to fight yet.

He thought that there was still actions to take on the political side before fighting.

 

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Wolfred Nelson made a speech right afterward that said that that he disagreed with Papineau and thought that it was time to fight.

After the Assemblée des Six-Comtés, the Patriots were divided because some supported Papineau and others supported Nelson.

 

On the other side, the supporters of the Russell Resolutions, called the Constitutional Association led by Peter McGill and John Molson, also held gatherings around the province and wanted the army to return order to the colony.

 

On 6 November 1837, Les Fils de la Liberté were having a gathering in Montréal, when the Doric Club began fighting with them.

That caused violence and vandalism everywhere in the city of Montréal.

Arrest warrants were then issued for those responsible for the fight, which they considered to be the leaders of the Assemblée des Six-Comtés.

 

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The first armed conflict occurred in 1837 when the 26 members of the Patriots who had been charged with illegal activities chose to resist their arrest by the authorities under the direction of John Colborne.

 

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Above: John Colborne (1778 – 1863)

 

Arrest warrants against Papineau and other assembly members were issued.

They decided to leave Montréal and to hide in the country for their safety.

Papineau escaped to the United States and other rebels organized in the countryside.

 

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On 16 November, Constable Malo was sent to arrest three Patriots.

He transported them from Saint Jean, accompanied by 15 people.

The prisoners were liberated in Longueuil, where 150 Patriots were waiting for them.

The victory gave a lot of confidence to the Patriotes, who knew that the event meant they could expect the army would soon intervene.

 

However, the Patriots were not quite ready to fight an army.

 

Led by Wolfred Nelson, they defeated a British force at Saint Denis on 23 November  1837.

He had 800 people ready to fight, half of them with guns.

With confidence among the Patriote supporters wavering, Nelson threatened them to make sure that they would not leave.

Papineau was not there during the fight, which surprised a lot of people.

 

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Above: Battle of Saint Denis

 

The British troops soon beat back the rebels, defeating them at Saint Charles on 25 November….

 

Above: Battle of Saint Charles

 

At the Battle of Saint Charles, the Patriots were defeated.

General Brown was confident but was not a capable commander.

There was no discipline in the camp.

Different people offered support to Brown by offering him men, but he turned down all the offers.

Once the battle started, Brown escaped the fight.

 

After the Battle of Saint Charles, Nelson tried to keep Saint Denis safe, but there was nothing to do since they knew there was no hope.

 

….and at Saint Eustache on 14 December.

When the battle came, on 14 December 1837, there were between 500 and 600 people ready to fight.

The British troops were expecting strong resistance and so had brought 2,000 men.

Most Patriot leaders were killed or fled during the fight.

The Battle of Saint Eustache was a significant defeat.

The defeat of the rebellions can be explained by the fact that the Patriots were not quite ready to fight.

The troops pillaged and ransacked Saint Eustache.

 

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Above: Battle of Saint Eustache

 

(Unrelated note: Your humble blogger was born in Saint Eustache 128 years later.)

 

When news of the arrest of the Patriot leaders reached Upper Canada (Ontario), William Lyon Mackenzie launched an armed rebellion in December 1837.

 

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Above: William Lyon Mackenzie (1778 – 1863)

 

In the meantime, filibusters from the United States, the Hunter Patriots, formed a small militia and attacked Windsor, Upper Canada, to support the Canadian Patriots.

 

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Above: Battle of Windsor

 

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On 5 December, the government declared martial law in Montréal.

 

Britain dispatched Lord Durham to investigate the cause of the rebellion.

His report in 1839 recommended for the Canadas to be united into one colony (the Province of Canada) to assimilate the French-speaking Canadiens into Anglophone British culture.

For Durham, the fact that there were two groups (English and French) created a hostile environment.

He thought that the way to solve the problems in Lower Canada was to assimilate the French Canadians to eliminate the inferiority feeling of the French Canadians and end all problems in that colony.

He also recommended accepting the rebels’ grievances by granting responsible government to the new colony.

 

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Above: Lord Durham (1792 – 1840)

 

Papineau’s role in the 1837 rebellions against British rule forced him into exile until 1845, when, three years after he had been granted amnesty, he finally decided to return to what in 1845 was called the Province of Canada, but he visited Italy and Switzerland before getting to Canada.

He only returned to Montreal after he had been granted amnesty by the colonial government as well.

 

In 1848, he was elected member of the new united Legislative Assembly of the Province of Canada in the riding of Saint Maurice.

In severe disagreement with the emerging French Canadian Liberal Party, he became an independent Member of Parliament.

A convinced republican after a long exile in the United States and France, Papineau supported the Montreal Annexation Manifesto that called for Canada to join the United States of America.

 

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Above: Burning of Montréal’s Parliament Building, 1849

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After the signing of the Canadian–American Reciprocity Treaty in 1854, the Annexation movement died out.

 

His desire for Canada to become part of the US is conveniently forgotten by Canadian and Québec nationalists when Papineau’s name is invoked.

 

(Ironically, Mackenzie later became Mayor of Toronto and Nelson the Mayor of Montréal.)

 

Walk to place Jacques Cartier, where, inspired by Trajan’s Column in Rome, Horatio Nelson’s Column has a distinctive characteristic.

 

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Admiral Nelson, who defeated the French, is not looking towards the waters of the St. Lawrence River as might be expected for a seaman, but rather towards the great civil and military institutions of the city at the time: the prison and guardroom, law courts and military parade ground.

 

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This curious characteristic is also true of London’s column, where the statue faces away from the Thames.

 

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One explanation may be that the Admiral, great seafaring strategist though he was, suffered from seasickness all his life.

 

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From the time of its installation, Nelson’s Column, a monument to the glory of the English admiral, raised the hackles of the Francophone community who saw it as a symbol of British domination.

Acting as a sort of counterbalance, a statue of Jean Vauquelin, a French naval officer who participated in the Defence of Québec City in the 18th century, stands on the other side of rue Nôtre Dame between City Hall and the former law courts.

 

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Vauquelin thus faces Nelson, defiantly staring back in a constant symbolic battle.

 

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Head towards Metro Mont Royal.

Every day, hundreds of people (at least before the corona virus) wait for the bus at the stop behind the Metro.

They wait, but they do not see the large brick facade on the other side of the street conceals a famous poem from Québec literature.

Inaugurated in 1999, the work was designed as part of the redevelopment of Square Gérald Godin, named after the Québec poet.

Tango de Montréal was published in 1983 as part of the poet’s Sarzènes collection.

Words hidden in bricks, dancing lyrics gathered together by mortar, each word a sound to itself, emotions waiting for expression by those who will see.

 

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Walk down boulevard Saint Laurent (the Main) and you will see twelve public benches in black granite between rue Saint Cuthbert and rue Marie Anne.

Six benches on the east side, six on the west, create a symbolic bridge.

Each bench is engraved with a quotation in Portuguese and in French taken from major Portuguese authors of the 14th to the 21st centuries.

They range from the courtly songs of the troubadour King Dom Dinis and the works of Nobel Laureate José Saramago, to that most famous of Portuguese poets, Fernando Pessoa.

For each author, a brief biography and a short description of the literary and historic contexts of the work are provided in French and Portuguese.

Theatre, religion, the great maritime discoveries, Portuguese Baroque, fado, travel, emigration and language are just some of the themes examined along the very original literary walk.

The sides of each bench are decorated with Azulejos (painted ceramic tiles) designed by four Montréal artists of Portuguese origin: Carlos Calado, Miguel Rebelo, Joe Lima and Joseph Branco.

This was the city’s way of commemorating the 50-year presence of the Portuguese community in Montréal.

It is a beautiful way to meander through the complexities of the Lusitanian culture and soil.

 

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The nearby Parc du Portugal, at the corner of rue Marie Anne and boulevard Saint Laurent, is a charming little spot that pays homage to Portuguese immigrants, most of whom came from the Azores and began settling here in the 1950s.

The park is dotted with decorative elements relating to Portuguese culture, including a bandstand topped by a Cock of Barcelos and a fountain decorated with Azulejos by Ruiz Dias.

The pedestal is a reminder of how explorers once marked their arrival in the new lands they discovered.

Here, it symbolizes the presence of the Portuguese community.

 

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Above: Parc du Portugal

 

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Above: Parc du Portugal

 

 

Rue Demers is a little street north of Plateau Mont Royal, lined by houses built in the early 20th century for the workers of the nearby quarter and, at first glance, seems like any other back lane in the neighbourhood.

However, this little lane, wedged between avenue Coloniale and avenue Henri Julien and running parallel between boulevard Saint Josepb and rue Villeneuve, leads a double life.

Although one section is still open to traffic, the other has been turned into a Garden of Eden.

 

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In 1969, five architecture students suggested renovating rue Demers, in association with the residents, to improve what was then a run-down neighbourhood.

The young architects failed to complete their project, blocked by the residents’ lack of enthusiasm and failure to participate.

A film entitled Les fleurs, c’est pour Rosemont (the flowers are for Rosemont), which is still available on the National Film Board of Canada (ONF – NFB), recounts their adventure.

 

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Fifty years later, however, rue Demers has become one of the most pleasant spots of this part of Mile End and is considerably more middle class.

The residents finally succeeded in upgrading their surroundings by creating large green areas that actually block the roadway and by taking great care of the appearance of their homes.

 

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Morgan, enjoy a tranquil stroll along the street to take in its peace and quiet.

As you do, reflect on how back lanes are a distinctive and emblematic feature of Montréal.

Indeed, few cities have such a network of them.

Montréal’s 4,000+ back lanes are estimated to have a cumulative length of almost 450 kilometres.

 

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You can spend a lifetime in Montréal and never completely discover it.

 

Over the past 30 years, these green lanes have grown up, first rapidly taking over the Plateau Mont Royal neighbourhood before spreading to the rest of Montréal Island.

There are more than 50 green lanes on the Plateau and a dozen are added each year.

 

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For a street to become “green“, around 70 square metres of the asphalt surface has to be removed and replaced by Flower beds of perennials, trees and bushes.

Increasing the amount of greenery helps to reduce the effects of urban heat, recuperates rainwater and increases biodiversity.

It is also a way to fraternize (post-corona) with neighbours and to beautify the district.

The decision to create a green lane is always up to the residents, who form a committee.

If 100% of them approve, the street can even be prohibited to traffic, thus becoming a proper garden.

This is what is called a ruelle champêtre (country lane), the first of which was created in 2007, between avenue Drolet and avenue Henri Julien.

 

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At the corner of avenue Van Horne and rue Saint Urbain, near the Saint Laurent viaduct and Metro Rosemont is Glen Le Mesurier’s Twilight Sculpture Garden.

Le Mesurier is one of those passionate artists whose approach goes far beyond the artworks themselves.

He is a vehement supporter of public art who yearns to see cities filled with works of art.

In 1999, Le Mesurier set his sights on an empty lot near his Mile End Studio and decided to turn it into a sculpture garden.

The abandoned lot, covered with debris of all sorts and contaminated by gas from the Irving gas station that once stood there, was transformed, becoming a green park dotted with about 50 works created from recycled metal, most of which came from the old Outremont marshalling yard.

With help from a horticulturalist, Le Mesurier established a list of plants and bushes that could help purify the soil: raspberries, wildflowers, mint…..

 

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Near the tracks, he set up a beehive to encourage the pollination of all this new greenery.

Then Le Mesurier started installing his sculptures, at no cost and surreptiously – most often at the end of the day when no one was paying attention, hence the name “twilight sculpture garden”.

Some works stand more than five metres tall and can’t be missed: animals and plants, strange weather vanes turning with the wind, towers of wheels and gears.

The city authorities, concerned about his illicit occupation of space, first threatened to demolish the artworks, but sense prevailed after a while and his original project was accepted.

Today the authorities have even recognized the artist’s moral ownership of the lot.

Defining himself as a green artist, Le Mesurier continues to create public art to this day.

 

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Finally, last stop…..

You have walked a lot, Morgan, and dusk is not far off and the need to return home beckons.

 

 

Between avenue de Gaspé and Avenue Henri Julien is an urban biodiversity reserve called le Champ des Possibles (field of possibilities).

Wedged between the Mile End “techno” buildings, the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) tracks and the Carmelite convent gardens, hidden behind a high stone wall, le Champ des Possibles is a strip of greenery spread over almost four acres (1.5 hectares), neglected for the past half-century.

 

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The site, formerly occupied by a marshalling yard and then abandoned, has slowly been colonized by nature.

There are no fewer than 300 plant and animal species.

Migratory birds pass through in spring and autumn.

 

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Over the years, a number of Montréalais have taken over this stopping-off place not far from Rosemont Metro Station.

When a 2006 city regeneration plan proposed turning it into a highway maintenance storage space, residents of the Mile End Citizens Committee got together and fiercely opposed the project – successfully.

In 2009 the land was finally bought by the city, which then handed it over to a non-profit organization that calls itself Les Amis du Champ des Possibles.

This is the first natural green space to be protected by local residents.

 

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The Field of Possibilities is an oasis of tranquillity in the heart of the city, unlike an urban park because of its rich biodiversity.

Here each plant, each animal, finds its place in the wild equilibrium.

You can follow the rhythm of flowering, look out for the different species of butterfly that breed there and see the elusive red fox, skunk or peregrine falcon.

Sometimes artists perform there.

 

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Amenities such as rest areas, marked paths (here called “lines of desire“), recycling bins and so on add to the visitor enjoyment.

At the end of winter – maybe soon – a great annual effort is made to clean up the site in preparation for its spring metamorphosis.

 

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That is enough for today, Morgan.

And what have you discovered?

I don’t know for certain how these sites will inspire you, but I can tell you how they have inspired me.

 

  • Place Norman Bethune
    • reminds me of the strange path our lives can take and of the difference one man can make on the lives of many
  • Guaranteed Pure Milk
    • tells me of how quickly life can change, how a few incidents nearly destroyed an industry and how inventiveness helped the industry recover
  • The crosses of Dorchester Square
    • speak to me of the impermanence of life and how most men are forgotten within the span of a generation
  • Hochelaga
    • speaks to me of the legacy we leave behind and the mystery of who we truly are
  • The Angel of Budapest
    • is similar to Bethune’s message of universal love towards all and how even one simple man can save us all
  • The Monkey King of Chinatown
    • reminds me of the ties that unite all humanity and the dignity that all humanity possesses and should be shown
  • The Franco Américain
    • speaks of accomplishment forgotten and reputations garnered that may not be completely accurate
  • Nelson’s Column
    • is a tale of never-ending conflict amongst ourselves and the need to save face
  • The Montréal Tango
    • reminds me of roses in the weeds and beauty in the banal
  • The Portuguese benches
    • tell me of proud heritage just waiting to be discovered, of wonders both near and far, within and without
  • Parc du Portugal
    • speaks of home found where the heart is
  • The flowers of Rosemont
    • reminds me that we can create paradise from parking lots, Eden from oblivion
  • The Twilight Sculpture Garden
    • speaks of love of life, of art intertwined with the divine simplicity of nature
  • The Field of Possibilities
    • tells of a determination to preserve what is truly important while all around everything seems bent on destruction

 

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The Pandemic Path is less about pandemics as it is a reminder of what should be cherished.

It is a quiet quest of simple pleasures and meaningful messages.

 

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As governments tighten their control of their citizenry, we need to remember that they exist only by the will of the people.

Unchecked, they will take everything from us – our memories of the past, our pleasures of the moment, our hopes for the future.

And we let them, because we are scared.

Scared of dying.

Scared of the uncertainty of life.

 

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The increased spread of enforced curfews and required home detention should serve to teach us one thing.

There is more to life than what is contained with four walls.

There is more to life than concealed thought, silent assent and frustrated hopes.

The road to true freedom, the path to our self-reliance, the clarion call of courage, all begin with a single step.

Walk, while you still can.

 

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Open the door.

Step away from the comforts of your secure confinement.

Take a walk and discover your own Pandemic Path.

 

Image result for footpaths montreal

 

What will survive a pandemic?

You choose.

 

Sources: Wikipedia / Google / Facebook / Rough Guide to Canada / Philippe Renault, Secret Montréal: An Unusual Guide / “Turkey reports first corona virus death as infections jump to 98″, http://www.dailysabah.com / Gabby Rodrigues, “Ontario government declares state of emergency amid corona virus pandemic”, 17 March 2020, https://globalnews.ca / Christina Maxouris and Steve Almasy, “A state by state breakdown of US corona virus cases“, 19 March 2020, http://www.cnn.com / Zoe Drewitt, “Hundreds of inmates escape prison during corona virus riots in Brazil”, https://metro.co.uk / “Coruna virus: EU seals borders to most outsiders”, 17 March 2020, http://www.bbc.co.uk / Nasser Karimi and Jon Gambrell, “Iran warns virus could kill millions in Islamic Republic“, 17 March 2020, https://apnews.com / Ben Graham, “Woolies employee stabbed amid choas in Victoria’s Moorington Peninsula“, 17 March 2020, http://www.news.com.au Trump defends use of ‘China virus’“, 17 March 2020, http://www.cnn.com